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VOYAGES 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 A JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTH AFRICA 
 
 BY THE 
 
 rev. john Campbell. 
 
 INTENDED FOR THE YOUNG. 
 
 FIRST AMERICAN EDITION 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 PRESBYTERIAN BOARD OF PUBLICATION. 
 
 JAMES RUSSELL, PUBLISHING AGENT. 
 
 1840. 
 
PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 WILLIAM S. MARTI F.N, TR INTER. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 Page 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 5 
 
 PART II. 
 
 CAPE TOWN 68 
 
 PART III. 
 
 JOURNEY TO PACAETSDORF AND BETHELSDORP .... 96 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP 122 
 
 PART V. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND . . 247 
 

 
 
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VOYAGE 
 
 TO AND FROM 
 
 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 We left London, November 10, 1S18, for 
 Liverpool. We remained there until the 
 morning of the 18th, when, at ten a. m., we 
 received an order to repair on board our ship, 
 which was the Westmoreland, Captain Cree- 
 ry, bound for Bombay. She sailed, about 
 three p. m., out of harbour, and along the 
 Welsh coast towards Holyhead. 
 
 We had no sooner passed Holyhead, on 
 the 19th, into the open Irish Channel, than 
 we found the wind directly opposed to our 
 progress down the channel, which obliged us 
 to tack, or cross between the Welsh and Irish 
 coasts for many days. 
 
 For the first five days, we only advanced, 
 about twenty miles beyond Holyhead, so ad- 
 verse were the winds. On the evening of 
 the 24th, the wind changed to a favourable 
 quarter. 
 
 2 
 
6 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 On the 25th, the fair wind which so cheer- 
 ed us, died away about four o’clock in the 
 morning, and was succeeded by one which 
 blew directly contrary to our desired course. 
 At one p. m., or after mid-day, we had to 
 encounter a gale of wind, which blew with 
 great fury. While most of us were on deck, 
 a vast wave poured forth its contents from 
 one end of the ship to the other, so that not 
 one escaped without being drenched with 
 water. A sheep and several of our fowls 
 died, from the violent tossing and tumbling 
 of the ship, and the severity of the weather. 
 
 This long detention in the Irish Channel, 
 we thought, might be designed by Providence 
 as a preventive of some greater evil which 
 might have befallen us, had we got faster 
 forward. At any rate, as “ it is good for a 
 man to bear the yoke,” or suffer trials, “ in 
 his youth,” so we thought it might be good 
 for us to endure these contrary winds in the 
 commencement of our voyage, rather than at 
 the middle, or near its termination. How- 
 ever all were anxious to remove from a 
 northern winter as fast as possible. 
 
 One of our tame geese, observing some 
 wild ones fly over the ship, instantly flew 
 after them, but soon lighted on the water, and 
 very probably perished before it could reach 
 the land. He had better have been contented 
 with his situation, and remained on board 
 the ship; he might thereby have enjoyed 
 life a few weeks longer; but he could not re- 
 
CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. 
 
 7 
 
 frain from following the company of those 
 who led him to ruin : in this respect he was 
 too much like many giddy youths. 
 
 By persevering in tacking, we reached the 
 mouth of the channel, and got into the open 
 sea by the 29th. Being the Lord’s day, we 
 had worship on the quarter-deck; a practice 
 which was continued during the voyage. 
 
 December 1. The south-west wind, which 
 had resisted our progress for a fortnight, was 
 caused, by the Ruler of winds and waves, to 
 give way to a north-west gale, which kindly 
 drove us on, in our right course, at the rate of 
 eight or nine miles an hour. Upon this favour- 
 able change all commended the captain, for his 
 perseverance in beating up so long against a 
 south-westerly wind, instead of returning to 
 port, and some of us talked of soon seeing 
 the flying fishes — a sign of more moderate 
 climes. 
 
 December 2. The fair wind, which had 
 afforded so much sincere satisfaction the pre- 
 ceding evening, began about eleven o’clock 
 to decrease, and continued to do so till about 
 five in the morning, when it entirely died 
 away, and was succeeded by our old adverse 
 south-west wind; however, we had been car- 
 ried forward about ninety miles by it, for 
 which we felt thankful, and hoped to be able 
 to wait patiently till God should be pleased 
 to restore it to us. We knew, also, that the 
 wind, which was so adverse to us, was highly 
 favourable to ships returning from long voy- 
 
8 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ages, wherefore we ought not to grudge 
 their crews so favourable a gale. 
 
 About noon, this gale blew with consider- 
 able violence. When looking at the main- 
 mast, the captain happened to observe puffs 
 of dust, like sand, proceeding from a small 
 hole, about twelve feet from the deck. On 
 ordering the carpenter to examine it, he de- 
 clared the mast to be rotten to the heart. Sad 
 intelligence indeed to us all! On calling a 
 meeting of the officers, it was resolved that 
 we should return to Liverpool for a new 
 mast, to the sincere regret of all: but there 
 was no alternative, as no sailor would ven- 
 ture to mount it in a storm, after knowing it 
 was decayed; or should it come down, when 
 some thousand miles from a port, we should 
 have been placed in a painful predicament. 
 The ship’s helm was therefore ordered about, 
 and the bow to point in the direction of Li- 
 verpool. 
 
 December 3. In the morning we entered 
 the Irish, or St. George’s Channel. The cap- 
 tain, on examining his chart, found that while 
 we had been working out of the channel, for 
 the two weeks, we had crossed between 
 England and Ireland sixty times. 
 
 December 4. Before sunrise we got round 
 Holyhead, and expected to reach Liverpool 
 to dinner. When opposite Scarry lighthouse 
 we hung out a torch, as a signal for a pilot, 
 but none came. At ten a. m. the wind 
 chopped round to the eastward, blowing di- 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 y 
 
 rectly against our approach to the harbour. 
 A pilot came on board at noon, who informed 
 us of the death of our aged queen, and the 
 consequent general mourning. The wind 
 dying away, we remained nearly in the same 
 position the whole day, and likewise the suc- 
 ceeding night, which rather disappointed us, 
 as we were very desirous to spend the sab- 
 bath, which was the next day, among our 
 friends at Liverpool. Bnt God, mercifully, 
 at noon caused a fair wind to spring up in the 
 west, which carried us forward so swiftly, 
 that we arrived in the river, opposite Liver- 
 pool, about five o’clock in the evening of Sa- 
 turday, but we did not go ashore to disturb 
 our friends at an unseasonable hour. On the 
 morning of the Lord’s day, at ten o’clock, 
 we walked directly to the chapel of Dr. 
 Raffles, where our friends were rather sur- 
 prised to see us, having concluded we were 
 at least a thousand miles from the British 
 shores. I preached in the morning, and in 
 the afternoon addressed a sermon to children, 
 which I had engaged to do previous to sail- 
 ing, had we remained another sabbath. My 
 companions in travel, Dr. P. and Mr. M., 
 preached in other places in the town. 
 
 On Monday, being the first Monday in 
 the month, we had the opportunity of uni- 
 ting with many friends of missions, in their 
 monthly missionary prayer meeting, which 
 was attended by about fifteen hundred per- 
 sons. 
 
10 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 By Wednesday, December 9, in conse- 
 quence of great exertion, our ship had re- 
 ceived a new mast, and we again departed 
 on our voyage; but, on reaching the mouth 
 of the river, we cast anchor, having disco- 
 vered that the carpenter and three seamen 
 were on shore, without whom we could not 
 proceed. However, next morning, all being 
 on board, we set sail about ten o’clock, with 
 many other vessels. The day was fine and 
 the wind fair, so that by midnight we had 
 again got round Holyhead, which is about 
 seventy miles from Liverpool, and glad were 
 we to observe the bow of our vessel again 
 pointing to the south. 
 
 December 11. In the morning we were 
 delighted to hear that the wind had con- 
 tinued fair and strong the whole night, and 
 that we were opposite the Tuscar light, 
 which was as far as we had advanced during 
 the fortnight after our first departure. As 
 the day advanced, the wind increased, and 
 drove us forward in our course from seven 
 to nine miles an hour, so that by midnight 
 we had reached the point from whence we 
 had returned on discovering the bad state of 
 our mast, having lost exactly nine days by 
 our return. 
 
 December 13. Spoke a French vessel, 
 the officers of which came to inquire the 
 longitude according to our reckoning, which 
 our captain frankly told them. How dif- 
 ferent is a time of peace from a time of war ! 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 11 
 
 During my former voyage to Africa, every 
 vessel we descried, however distant, excited 
 alarm, lest she should turn out to be an ene- 
 my; then of course we fled from her, and 
 she, under similar apprehensions, fled from 
 us; but now we sailed in a time of profound 
 peace over all the world. 
 
 At noon our longitude was 10 deg. 46 min. 
 west of London, and a gale of wind drove 
 our vessel, though with few sails set, ten 
 knots, or miles, per hour, which mercy we 
 attributed to the prayers of our brethren at 
 home, united with our own; believing that 
 the winds and waves, on the extended and 
 boisterous ocean, were now equally under 
 the control of the Almighty Saviour, as they 
 were on the little inland Sea of Galilee, in 
 the days when he was in the form of man 
 upon earth. 
 
 We moved so rapidly, to the west, as well 
 as south, that our watches, which went ac- 
 cording to London time, became all wrong. 
 The air, also, became increasingly milder. 
 During the night of the 17th, the wind was 
 contrary for a few hours, which was the first 
 time since leaving Liverpool, perhaps to re- 
 mind us of the value of the blessing we were 
 receiving; for a prosperous wind was be- 
 coming familiar to us, and less noticed and 
 valued. It is a melancholy proof of human 
 depravity, that the commonness and abun- 
 dance of God’s goodness, should lead us to 
 forget his bounty and our dependence. 
 
12 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 We all noticed a daily decrease of the 
 length of our shadows on the deck, a ^ure 
 sign of our rapid approach to the equator. 
 
 December 19. On taking observations 
 from the sun, it was found that, during the 
 former twenty-four hours, we had sailed two 
 hundred and nine miles, and that we were 
 parallel to the Canary Islands. Though we 
 had a strong breeze of wind, it was pleasant 
 to sit under the sun’s genial rays. It resem- 
 bled a fine April day in England. 
 
 December 20. In the morning, the cap- 
 tain ordered the awning to be got out, and 
 suspended over the deck, that we might have 
 worship on deck, instead of the cabin, it 
 being the Lord’s day. At ten a. m. we 
 assembled under this comfortable canopy, 
 shaded from the sun, whose heat now began 
 to be felt. Two Roman Catholic sailors 
 attended for the first time, because, said they, 
 “ It is decent to attend worship.” At noon, 
 we found we had gone two hundred and 
 twelve miles in the twenty-four hours, so 
 that we had in that time approached three 
 and a half degrees nearer the sun, which 
 added considerably to his elevation in the 
 heavens, and to the warmth. 
 
 December 21. Though mid-winter day, 
 there never was a finer one in the month of 
 June, in England, than this was. During 
 the fortnight in which we were fighting with 
 wintry winds, in the Irish Channel, eighty 
 of our fowls and ducks died, and the survi- 
 
CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. 
 
 13 
 
 vors looked sickly; but since coming into 
 warmer weather, all the fowls, swine, and 
 sheep, began to appear healthy and lively. 
 One of our female passengers wrought at 
 her needle-work till six in the evening, on 
 deck, with sun-light, on mid-winter day, 
 which to her was a novel occurrence. Most 
 of us remained on deck to a late hour, ad- 
 miring the glory of the heavens, sparkling 
 with innumerable suns and worlds, also the 
 vast ocean on which we sailed, and grate- 
 fully observing the friendly exertions of a 
 steady wind to hasten our progress towards 
 the end of our voyage, under the direction 
 of an indulgent God. 
 
 December 22. At noon, the thermometer 
 in the shade was at 70 degrees. We had 
 sailed during the last fourteen days, two 
 thousand one hundred and nine miles, being 
 at the rate of one hundred and fifty per day. 
 Several times did the captain remark, as we 
 were flying before the wind, “ We are high- 
 ly favoured in our voyage!” as indeed we 
 were. \ 
 
 Having crossed the tropic of Cancer, we 
 expected, as a matter of course, a fair wind 
 till we should reach the equator, distant 23§ 
 degrees, or sixteen hundred and twenty-one 
 and a half miles, counting a degree at sixty- 
 nine miles. The north-east is the regular 
 trade wind in the north tropic, which ma- 
 riners generally expect should blow there, 
 though sometimes it shifts to other quarters, 
 
14 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 as it happened in my own case, in my last 
 voyage. From the steadiness of the wind in 
 these latitudes, the seamen have compara- 
 tively little to do, the sails seldom requiring 
 alteration, except in occasional tornadoes, or 
 gusts of wind; therefore they employ their 
 leisure in repairing sails, washing, and mend- 
 ing their own clothes. But, in the afternoon, 
 we had an instance of the wind changing 
 within the tropics; for, after a considerable 
 fall of rain, it shifted from n.e. to s.e., which, 
 though not so fair as the former, did not pre- 
 vent us from nearly keeping our course to 
 St. Antonio, the most westerly of the Cape 
 de Verd Islands. 
 
 The setting sun, in a tropical climate, is 
 peculiarly beautiful; this evening it was ex- 
 tremely so. The delicate hues in the western 
 sky attracted every eye towards them. Where 
 the sun had gone down, it was blood red; 
 from thence, in both directions along the ho- 
 rizon, the red gradually sunk into yellow, 
 and that yellow into a beautiful green, which 
 formed a back ground to the apparent moun- 
 tains, towers, cathedrals, etc., which the wes- 
 tern clouds seemed to resemble. This de- 
 lightful exhibition did not vanish from our 
 view, like the forked lightning, which some- 
 times astonishes by its momentary appear- 
 ance, but remained in its full grandeur for 
 about twenty minutes; after which it did not 
 disappear suddenly, like a meteor, but so 
 gradually, that it was impossible to tell the 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 15 
 
 precise time when it terminated. I was 
 thankful for having eyes to behold so won- 
 derful a display of the Creator’s wisdom and 
 power, which tended to give exalted views 
 of both. Perhaps there were not a hundred 
 eyes which had the opportunity of witness- 
 ing the same scene in that part of the ocean. 
 
 While walking the deck, two hours be- 
 fore midnight, when all the elements were at 
 rest, a black cloud suddenly arose to wind- 
 ward of the ship, which attracted the atten- 
 tion of all; and while disputing whether it 
 contained wind or rain, both burst from it, 
 which obliged the seamen hastily to take in 
 sail, and made us flee to our cabins. So sud- 
 den are the changes within the tropics, re- 
 quiring the utmost attention and watchful- 
 ness of those who command the watch on 
 deck. In ten minutes the cloud was past, 
 and our former tranquillity restored. 
 
 The luminous matter in the water, which 
 generally surrounds ships sailing in these lati- 
 tudes, increased as we advanced southward; 
 it forms a source of great entertainment to 
 those on the water, who have but few ob- 
 jects to behold, compared with those who are 
 on land. 
 
 December 23 . After breakfast, two flying 
 fishes rose from the water, which were the 
 first we had seen, though they are seen much 
 farther to the north when it is summer. 
 North of the equator, one came on board at 
 the bow. 
 
16 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 December 25. About eleven a. m., we were 
 nearly becalmed, for the first time since leav- 
 ing England; we therefore resolved to make 
 some experiments by sinking bottles in the 
 sea. An empty wine bottle was well corked, 
 and a sail needle put through the upper part 
 of the cork, resting on the mouth of the bot- 
 tle; sail cloth was then wrapped over the 
 head of the bottle, and firmly tied round the 
 neck of it, part of the cord being fastened 
 round the needle at both ends. The bottle, 
 in this state, was sunk to seventy fathoms in 
 the water. On being drawn up, it was found 
 to be two-thirds filled with water, and every 
 thing in and about the cork in the same order 
 as when put down. On tasting the water, 
 it tasted quite as salt, though some thought 
 not quite so salt, as the ordinary sea water. 
 
 Another empty bottle was firmly corked, 
 and plastered over with rosin, and sunk two 
 hundred fathoms. On examining it when 
 brought up, we found it full of water, with 
 the cork firm, but inverted. The upper end 
 only was covered with red wax, which end 
 was undermost on its being taken up from 
 the sea. 
 
 At noon, we were to the westward of Bra- 
 va, another of the Cape de Yerd Islands. A 
 poor, but beautiful quail, driven from the 
 islands by the wind, through extreme fatigue, 
 alighted on the deck, and allowed itself to be 
 taken. It was about the size, colour, and 
 appearance of a thrush, without a tail. When 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 17 
 
 afraid, it darted upwards against the roof of 
 the cage into which it had been put. This 
 little foreigner was viewed by all with con- 
 siderable interest, being our first visiter from 
 shore, since our departure from England; 
 and glad should we have been to have had 
 an opportunity of restoring him, but no land 
 was in sight. 
 
 This being Christmas day, a large pig was 
 slaughtered for a feast to the seamen. The 
 sight appeared to please them all, as they did 
 their work with uncommon spirit, of which 
 they had plenty from the state of the weather. 
 
 December 26. It blew hard all night, with 
 a rolling sea, which caused the death of a 
 poor goat. We have made more than a de- 
 gree of longitude to the eastward, to enable 
 us to cross the line at about 20 deg. or 21 
 deg. of western longitude. Thermometer, in 
 shade, 76. For the first time flying fishes 
 have appeared frequently, and in consider- 
 able numbers. Some of the passengers had 
 been fishing all day, but caught nothing. In 
 the forenoon we saw the beautiful little in- 
 habitant of the deep, called by the sailors, 
 the Portuguese man-of-war. Saw a vessel 
 to westward, steering as if bound to Brazil. 
 
 December 27. Blew fresh and fair the 
 whole night, yet little rolling, though fre- 
 quently going nine miles an hour; nor were 
 we at all disturbed during our Sabbath wor- 
 ship on deck. Being in about 22 deg. west 
 longitude of London, our time was about an 
 
18 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 hour and a half later, so that when we com- 
 menced worship at ten o’clock, it was then 
 half-past eleven in London. Thermometer 
 76 . 
 
 For two days we had been sailing oppo- 
 site to that part of Africa explored by the late 
 bold and enterprizing traveller, Mungo Park; 
 a country ignorant, barbarous, and miserable 
 in the extreme: than which no part of the 
 world is more ignorant of God, or less values 
 human life or human liberty; where many 
 have lamented their inability to sell each 
 other for slaves to foreigners, in consequence 
 of the abolition of that horrid traffic by Eng- 
 land.* When Christianity and civilization 
 are once spread over that benighted region, 
 they will hardly be able to credit the sav- 
 age barbarity that existed for so many ages 
 among their forefathers — tearing fathers from 
 their wives, children, friends, home, and coun- 
 try for ever, and selling them to strangers, to 
 be dragged by them to unknown lands and 
 miseries; merely to procure a few pints of 
 rum, or other articles, which afforded only a 
 little gratification for a few hours! 
 
 The sailors readily received tracts, and 
 seemed to read them attentively. 
 
 While looking over the lee side of the ship, 
 about ten o’clock at night, admiring the in- 
 numerable particles of shining matter passing 
 along, I observed several porpoises playing 
 
 * Other nations continue the inhuman traffic, and pain- 
 ful to say, it has increased of late years. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 19 
 
 around, perhaps ten and twelve feet long. 
 They were perfectly visible in the water, 
 from the brilliancy which their rapid motion 
 produced around their bodies, which indeed 
 afforded sufficient light to display their entire 
 shape ; and so singular was their appearance, 
 that they resembled fishes composed of snow. 
 Though the vessel went seven miles an hour, 
 they swam round and round her without any 
 great exertion. The heavens were clear, the 
 air mild, and the sea smooth. 
 
 December 28. At ten in the morning we 
 were opposite Sierra Leone, an English settle- 
 ment designed for the improvement of that 
 part of Africa. Thermometer 78. 
 
 Nothing could surpass the delightfulness 
 of this day: It was not oppressively hot, 
 
 though the heavens were without a cloud. 
 The sea was smooth, yet the gentle breeze 
 caused the ship almost imperceptibly to glide 
 along the surface of the water at the rate of 
 seven miles an hour. The beautiful flying 
 fishes* were moving in flocks past us, and 
 
 * The ordinary flying fish belongs to the genus Exocetus; 
 there arc, however, other fishes furnished with large fan- 
 like fins, capable of taking flying leaps out of the water, 
 belonging to a genus ( Ductylopterus ) allied to our common 
 Gurnard. 
 
 Flying fishes are abundant in the warmer seas, and are 
 the food of the dolphin fish, the bonito, and the albacore, 
 which force them to spring for safety out of their native 
 element, and sweep on quivering fins above its surface, 
 exposed to the attacks of various birds ever on the watch 
 to pounce upon them the moment they appear. Their 
 flight is not always against the wind, though often so di- 
 
VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 The Flying Fish. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 21 
 
 fishes of other habits jumping up to catch 
 them in their flight. Though far distant from 
 all lands, and perhaps from all other ships, 
 yet our solitary situation did not take away 
 from our enjoyment of the surrounding beau- 
 ties. The only external alloy to our pleasure, 
 was the possibility of our meeting a South 
 American privateer, or pirate; as such ves- 
 sels had frequently plundered, and sometimes 
 captured, the ships of peaceful nations. 
 
 During the early part of the evening, we 
 had much lightning to the east, in the direc- 
 tion of the Gulf of Guinea, after which it ap- 
 peared in the west, and was followed by a 
 cloud, spreading itself over the whole hea- 
 vens. The north polar star had sunk nearly 
 to the horizon, and the constellation called 
 the Great Bear was in a similar position, 
 which showed that we were near the equator. 
 
 rected. The term flight is perhaps in strictness not quite 
 applicable to the aerial excursions of these fishes; for it 
 would appear that their expanded fins act rather the part 
 of parachutes than of wings. Hence their aerial excursion 
 seldom extends beyond two hundred yards at a stretch; 
 but the height to which they rise is very variable. Mr. 
 Bcnnet says, that he has known them come on board ship, 
 at a height of fourteen feet and upwards from the surface 
 of the water ; but they have been known to fall on board 
 vessels of twenty, or even twenty-five feet elevation. The 
 flying fish attains its greatest altitude by the spring which 
 propels it above the water ; from this altitude it declines 
 as it sweeps along more or less gradually ; it is, however, 
 capable of turning in its course, and, on dropping into the 
 water, of rising again almost instantly, so as to keep up a 
 succession of aerial sweeps, to which it is urged, generally 
 at least, by the unrelenting pursuit of its enemies. — Edit. 
 
 3 
 
22 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 December 29. Early in the morning it 
 rained very heavily, attended with much sheet 
 lightning and loud peals of thunder. When 
 the rain ceased, we had forked lightning every 
 two minutes At eight in the morning, the 
 thermometer in my cabin stood at 80, though 
 my little window was open all night. Ther- 
 mometer, in the shade, 83. 
 
 All the flocks of flying fishes which I have 
 seen, have flown against the wind, namely, 
 from south to north, which is the more ex- 
 traordinary, as they are supposed to rise in 
 consequence of being pursued by other fishes. 
 One would think they would naturally rise 
 and fly in the same direction in which they 
 were chased. No doubt they are met and 
 pursued by enemies from every direction.* 
 
 Our rapid approach towards the sun was 
 very evident, from the daily decreasing of the 
 length of our shadows at noon, which, of 
 course, must continue till we have no shadow 
 at all ; but, after passing under the line of the 
 equator, where the sun at noon will be over 
 our heads, our progress will appear by their 
 daily increase, till we reach our destination. 
 
 At sunset we saw a dragon-fly, about 
 three inches long, flying about the deck, 
 which must have had a very fatiguing jour- 
 ney in accomplishing the visit, as the nearest 
 land is distant four hundred and eighty miles; 
 but it may have come along with some ship 
 
 * [There is good reason to believe that the flight of the 
 fish is more for amusement than from necessity.] — A m. Ed. 
 
CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. 
 
 23 
 
 from the coast of Guinea, at least part of the 
 passage. In the evening, a black gloomy 
 cloud, which had for some time been collect- 
 ing in the east, advanced towards us. On ar- 
 riving above our heads, it sent forth the most 
 vivid lightning, attended with the loudest 
 thunder; two peals of which produced sev- 
 eral explosions resembling the firing of ar- 
 tillery, and were followed by a heavy fall of 
 rain. 
 
 About ten at night, peals of thunder were 
 roaring all around; the lightning flashing, 
 and the rain falling in such copious streams 
 on the deck, that nothing but its noise could 
 be heard; and, except when it lightened, we 
 were wrapped up in the thickest darkness, 
 somewhat emblematical of the abodes of 
 misery in the world of woe. Thermometer, 
 during the storm, at ten p. m., 80 . At the 
 same time the mate informed the captain, 
 that the wind had suddenly chopped round 
 to the s. e., which is the regular trade wind 
 in the southern tropic, but often encroaches 
 several degrees on the north side of the line. 
 
 December 30. So great was the calm dur- 
 ing the night, that we had only advanced ten 
 miles. A fine breeze sprung up about half- 
 past nine a. m.; but after lending its aid for 
 half an hour, it forsook us. 
 
 Our boats, which were fastened to the 
 stern and sides of the ship, had six inches of 
 water in them, from the rain of the prece- 
 ding night. Our remaining thirty-seven ducks 
 
24 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 were put into them. They had for six-weeks 
 been crowded together in hencoops, and 
 were covered with filth. The pleasure they 
 seemed to enjoy on regaining their liberty, 
 and swimming in the element they love, 
 was excessive. The flapping of their wings, 
 their hastily washing themselves, and push- 
 ing each other, and their constant vociferous 
 quacking, forced every beholder to be a par- 
 taker of their joy, and produced a smile of 
 satisfaction on every countenance. They 
 were afterwards humanely permitted to en- 
 joy their liberty on a certain part of the deck, 
 every moment of which time was employed 
 in hastily dressing their injured feathers. 
 Thermometer 82. 
 
 About five p. m., a water spout appeared 
 very plainly in the west, ascending to a dense 
 thunder cloud, which soon afterwards poured 
 down torrents of rain, and sent forth also 
 thunderings and lightnings. 
 
 About six p. m. we were hailed by a brig 
 which had been following us from sunrise. 
 Instead of being a Venezuelan pirate, as our 
 fears suggested it might be, she turned out to 
 be the Dart, of London, forty-five days from 
 Newfoundland, with a cargo of fish for Ba- 
 hia, on the coast of Brazil. The captain 
 consenting to take letters to the post office at 
 Bahia, most of us commenced writing to our 
 friends. These letters, at least mine, arrived 
 safe in England a few months after. 
 
 December 31. Loud peals of thunder and 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 25 
 
 heavy rain during the night. On going upon 
 deck, I was surprised to see a solitary but- 
 terfly flying about. From whence it came 
 none could conjecture, unless from the cab- 
 bages which we brought from England, that 
 hung about the masts. My trunks got white 
 with mould every twenty-four hours, from 
 the dampness of the atmosphere. 
 
 Thermometer 85. Thus we ended the 
 year ISIS, halfway between the two poles. 
 At midnight, the sailors rung the bell for 
 about half an hour, which so alarmed the 
 sheep, swine, and fowls, that they made 
 a hideous noise. 
 
 January 1, 1819. Saw dolphins, for the 
 first time on the voyage, playing about the 
 ship. In the forenoon, some of the men 
 swam from the bow of the ship, which was 
 rather hazardous, on account of the sharks; 
 but they said they should see them coming, 
 and would get into the ship. Many fishes, 
 called by the sailors skip-jacks, were seen 
 leaping above the water, either for amuse- 
 ment, or to catch the passing flying fish. 
 
 January 2. We spoke a Portuguese, and 
 afterwards a French ship from the Isle of 
 France. 
 
 January 3. In the morning a dolphin* was 
 
 * The dolphin is a name given by sailors to a fish of the 
 genus Coryphcena : it must not be confounded with the 
 true dolphin, one of the whale tribe, {cetacea,) and closely 
 allied to our porpoise. 
 
 The dolphin fish, {Coryphcena hipparies,) though occa- 
 sionally straying into the seas of temperate latitudes, is 
 
26 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 caught at the bow, which changed colours 
 when in the agonies of death. The side which 
 was uppermost, while lying on deck, was of 
 varied hues of green and yellow, with light 
 blue spots ; the under side on which it lay, 
 was all white like any ordinary fish. We 
 were becalmed the whole day ; but calms 
 must be expected near the line, where those 
 who cross it have need of patience ; and we 
 were comforted by the belief that our God 
 and friend knew our situation, and that his 
 influence extends to all parts of his sea, as 
 well as of his dry land. 
 
 January 5. At sunrise, we were gratified 
 to see hundreds of skip-jack fishes* leaping 
 
 most frequent in the intertropics, which constitute its na- 
 tural range of habitat. It is one of the most brilliantly 
 coloured of the finny tribes of the ocean: its tints above 
 are silvery blue; the under surface is yellow, with marks 
 of delicate pale blue; but the colours of the fish appear 
 ever changing, as they glow with the metalic hues of bur- 
 nished gold and silver, or sparkle like gems in the rays of 
 the sun It is, however, only while living, that the dol- 
 phin presents so brilliant a spectacle : when taken out of 
 the water, its colours fade, change from one tint to ano- 
 ther, and ultimately vanish ; a dull greyish brown re- 
 maining in their stead. The dolphin is from a yard to a 
 yard and a half in length; its form is compressed later- 
 ally : the dorsal fin commences on the top of the head, 
 and runs along the whole of the back, supported by flexible 
 rays. It is an unceasing persecutor of the flying fish, 
 and its movements in the water are surprisingly quick 
 and active. — Enir. 
 
 * The skip-jack, skipper, or saury-pike ( Scomberesox 
 saurvs,) is very abundant in the warmer latitudes, and 
 occasionally, during the month of June, visits in shoals 
 our shores. It is eminently gregarious, herding in shoals 
 
Tho Dolphin. 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 27 
 
28 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 above water, which had a fine appearance, 
 as each fish, from the rays of the sun, seem- 
 ed to shine as if composed of burnished silver, 
 from twelve to twenty-four inches long, and 
 formed an arch in the leap, which is some- 
 times extended to about two yards. The 
 flying fishes added to the beauty of the 
 scene, by rising out of the water in every 
 direction. 
 
 At noon our latitude was 2 deg. 47 min. n. 
 Thermometer 85. At four p. m. a breeze 
 sprung up from s. s. e., which, though not 
 very favourable, pleased us much, as it 
 caused motion in the ship, which relieved 
 us from the dull uniformity of our situation 
 during the past week. At night we were 
 frequently amused by eight or ten b.onitoes 
 swimming about the ship. Their backs ap- 
 
 of thousands, which are thinned by the rapacity of the 
 dolphin and bonito. The velocity and activity cf this fish 
 are amazingly great ; and when a shoal (often amounting 
 to twenty thousand) is pursued by a troop of dolphins, the 
 assembled multitude may be seen to spring out of the 
 water, crowded together in a singular manner, and upon 
 falling into the sea again, to rush along its surface for 
 more than a hundred yards without dipping beneath, and 
 scarcely seeming to touch the water. They again leap, 
 and falling, again continue their arrow-like course. The 
 pursuit, however, is all the time regularly kept up, and in 
 spite of all their efforts multitudes fall a prey. The skip- 
 per is closely related to our well-known gar-fish, (Belone ;) 
 its length is from one to two feet ; the jaws are narrow 
 and elongated ; its general form is long, slender, and com- 
 pressed. The head and back are of a rich dark blue, be- 
 coming paler and passing into a greenish tint on the sides ; 
 the under surface is silvery white. — Edit. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 29 
 
 peared brown, and their sides luminous like 
 the moon. The seamen, during the day, 
 caught a dolphin, in whose inside was found 
 an entire gar-fish, which resembles the sword 
 fish. 
 
 January 6. In the morning we had a 
 squall of wind, after which we had the re- 
 gular s. e. tropical wind, though we were 
 still north of the equator, but being a stronger 
 wind than that which prevails in the north 
 tropic, it is often met with two or three de- 
 grees north of the equinoctial line. Thermo- 
 meter 79. The sun set with peculiar splen- 
 dour, having a regular glory issuing from it, 
 such as is frequently seen in paintings of the 
 rising and setting sun, which I do not re- 
 member ever having seen realized in nature 
 before. 
 
 January 7. The rain descended in such 
 torrents, from three to four o’clock in the 
 morning, that its violent dashing against the 
 deck awoke most of us from a sound sleep. 
 Latitude fifty-nine miles n. of the equator. 
 Thermometer 79. In the evening we were 
 greatly gratified by the immense number of 
 fishes accompanying the vessel on both sides, 
 which were distinctly seen, from their lumi- 
 nous appearance, though ten or twelve feet 
 below the surface of the water. 
 
 Expecting to cross the line in the morn- 
 ing, the men were busy preparing for the 
 usual ceremony of shaving and ducking. A 
 man was stationed at the foremast head 
 4 
 
30 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 during the afternoon, pretending to be look- 
 ing out for the arrival of Neptune, the sup- 
 posed heathen god of the sea. He called 
 out that a boat was a-head, on which the 
 sailors all ran to the bow to look for it, but 
 they declared that the looker out was mis- 
 taken for it was only a ship. About 7 p. m., 
 however, Neptune was announced to be on 
 board. A sailor called out, with a rough 
 voice, “What ship is this?” “The West- 
 moreland,” was answered by the chief mate. 
 “I knew her,” said the pretended Neptune; 
 “ Captain Cumming commanded her. Does 
 he command her now?” “No.” “ Who com- 
 mands her?” “Captain Creery.” “Where 
 does she come from?” “Liverpool.” “To 
 what port is she bound?” “ The Cape, and 
 Bombay.” “Very well; I shall be on board 
 to-morrow, at half-past ten o’clock — tell the 
 captain that.” “ I will; but be sure to bring 
 a fish with you.” 
 
 January 8. We crossed the equator about 
 half past five in the morning, during a heavy 
 squall of wind, accompanied with rain, at 
 21 deg. 30 min. w. longitude. We saw nu- 
 merous flocks of sea gulls looking after the 
 flying fishes, some of which we saw them 
 catch while flying. The men caught eight 
 bonitoes, immediately after the squall, by 
 means of a hook dressed in resemblance of a 
 flying fish, and made to skim along the sur- 
 face of the water like it. 
 
 At half past ten o’clock, the pretended 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 31 
 
 Neptune made his appearance on the fore- 
 castle, dressed in a fantastic manner, carry- 
 ing a trident with a bonito stuck upon it; 
 attended by his wife, barber, and two con- 
 stables; all dressed in masks, small petticoats, 
 etc. The constables proceeded to the cabin 
 to summon all the passengers to appear 
 before Neptune, who, with his wife, was 
 drawn on a carriage, roughly constructed for 
 the occasion, along the deck, when those 
 who had never crossed, the line before, were, 
 by him, ordered to be shaved. These were 
 seated on the edge of a large tub full of salt 
 water, with a wet cloth tied round their eyes 
 to blindfold them. The under parts of their 
 faces were then covered with soot and grease, 
 by means of a large brush; after which it 
 was scraped off with a large piece of iron 
 hoop in the form of a razor, and their thus 
 shaved chins were dusted over with salt. 
 Then a speaking trumpet was put into their 
 mouth, through the wide end of which a 
 question was asked: if they opened their 
 mouth to answer it, the trumpet was imme- 
 diately elevated, which let down a plentiful 
 supply of salt water. Two pailsfull of salt 
 water were now poured on their heads: then 
 the deal on which they sat was suddenly 
 withdrawn, and they were plunged into the 
 tubful of water, which concluded the foolish 
 ceremony. The sailors evidently had their 
 favourites, for some were handled much 
 more roughly than others. The captain or- 
 
32 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 dered that none of the passengers, who had 
 never formerly crossed the line, should be 
 molested; but in lieu of it, as is usual, they 
 made a present to the seamen. Thus this 
 childish riot terminated. 
 
 In the evening a good wind arose, accom- 
 panied by rain. Indeed there are rains in 
 the vicinity of the line at all seasons, which 
 may proceed from clouds being blown to it 
 by the tropical winds from both sides. This, 
 no doubt, is the cause of clouds constantly 
 hovering over the line, which is a great com- 
 fort when the sun is shining directly down 
 upon our heads, as it acts like an umbrella, 
 protecting us from its powerful rays. 
 
 The fine breeze died away in an hour, and 
 left us nearly becalmed; so that our prospects 
 were no sooner brightened, and our spirits 
 raised, than all was overturned, and submis- 
 sion to the will of the all-wise Ruler called 
 for. At noon the thermometer was SO, and 
 at half-past nine at night it stood equally 
 high; this heat excited profuse perspiration. 
 How different was it with our friends in 
 England, who were drawing round their 
 evening fires, while the hail or snow storm 
 probably was raging without! 
 
 January 9. Shoals of bonitoes* continued 
 
 * The bonito ( Thymnus pelamys ) is closely allied to the 
 tunny ( Thymnus vulgaris) and also, but less immediately, 
 to the common mackerel, ( scomber scombrus, Linn.) The 
 bonito, however, never attains to so great a size as the 
 tunny, (which is commonly four feet in length, and often 
 much more,) being usually but about thirty inches. Though 
 
The Bonito. 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 
 
 33 
 
34 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 constantly to accompany the ship, and swim- 
 ming exactly at the same rate. How long 
 fishes are able to continue travelling it is 
 impossible to ascertain, but probably much 
 longer than any land animals. Swimming 
 does not appear to require the same exertion 
 as running. They seemed truly intent on 
 their journey, turning neither to the right nor 
 the left, but pushing straight forward. 
 
 Silver articles, though in constant use, be- 
 gan to tarnish on entering the tropic, and con- 
 tinued to get darker as we proceeded. My 
 silver snuff-box appeared like dull lead co- 
 lour, which might arise from the effect of the 
 heat on some part of the cargo. 
 
 Thermometer SO. The stars called Pleiades 
 were north of us; Orion immediately above 
 
 chiefly confined to the warmer latitudes of the ocean, 
 where it wanders in shoals, giving chase to the flying fish 
 and skipper, it sometimes visits more northern latitudes, 
 and occasionally the British coast. The bonito is a very 
 beautiful fish, its colours being rich and metallic : the back 
 is dark steel blue ; the sides are dusky, passing on to white 
 below ; behind the pectoral fins is a bright triangular 
 space, from which begin four dark lines, that extend along 
 each side of the belly to the tail. Its motions are rapid 
 and vigorous. 
 
 It is mentioned by Commerson, and has since been no- 
 ticed by others, that the bonito is much infested with 
 parasitic internal worms ( Entozoa ) of various kinds, 
 which even pierce through the coats of the stomach and 
 intestines, and live upon the juices of their living victim. 
 All fishes are peculiarly obnoxious to parasitic intestinal 
 worms; they abound in the liver. In the liver, for example, 
 of the common cod-fish they may be often found in great 
 numbers. Their presence seems to disturb the health and 
 vigour of fishes much less than might be imagined. — Edit. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 35 
 
 us; and Sirius, or the Dog-star, a little to the 
 south of us. 
 
 January 10. The regular s. e. wind has 
 become steady. In the morning we saw, for 
 the first time during the voyage, the flying 
 fishes flying towards the south ; in the other 
 tropic, they went always to the north, in 
 both cases contrary to the wind. A large fish 
 followed us on the windward side the whole 
 day, at least thirty miles,* and perhaps it 
 continued following us great part of the 
 night. Few land animals would have volun- 
 tarily followed us so far. The sailors caught 
 three bonitoes, all of which, when opened, 
 were found to be overrun with intestinal 
 worms, on which account they were imme- 
 diately thrown overboard. Not one on board 
 had ever seen or heard of such a thing before 
 this voyage, though I have since been told 
 it is not uncommon for fishes to be in that 
 state. The sailors viewed them with aston- 
 ishment and disappointment. 
 
 January 11. Great crowds of bonitoes fol- 
 lowed us the whole day. Their number 
 seemed to occasion no small stir among the 
 winged fishes, for they were continually fly- 
 
 * The rapidity of the movements of fishes surprises us, 
 when we consider that they will not only follow vessels for 
 leagues, but play around them with as much ease as if 
 they were stationary : but the flight of insects is more ex- 
 traordinary ; a common blue-bottle fly, or a dragon fly, 
 will dance and wheel round a steam carriage going at the 
 rate of thirty miles an hour, dart before it, and return, as 
 if the carriage were in the slowest state of motion. — E dit. 
 
36 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ing out of the water to escape this devouring 
 army. Thermometer SO. 
 
 January 12. Mr. H. second mate, who had 
 been long on board a frigate during the last 
 war, mentioned an appearance frequently 
 seen at sea, which is often mistaken for a 
 distant ship, and has often been pursued in 
 mistake by our cruisers, but as they advance 
 it recedes, on which account the sailors call 
 it the Flying Dutchman. 
 
 January 14. Thermometer S2. We were 
 now within about three thousand miles of 
 the Cape, and entertained hopes of reaching 
 it in a month. 
 
 January 16. Passed the latitude of St. 
 Helena. 
 
 January IS. The two white specks in the 
 heavens, called the Cape clouds by those 
 sailing to India, and the Magellan clouds by 
 such as are sailing to the Pacific Ocean, round 
 Cape Horn, have been looked for by us ever 
 since we passed the line, but neither were 
 seen till this evening, when they were plain- 
 ly perceived above the horizon. We hailed 
 their appearance as a sign of our approach 
 to the Cape. 
 
 The number of fowls seen to-day was 
 greater than usual, perhaps owing to our 
 being in the vicinity of Trinidad, an island 
 which we expected to see next morning at 
 sunrise, having been north of it, at noon, 
 ninety miles. 
 
 The sea fowls, in this part of the world, 
 
CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. 
 
 37 
 
 may be classed among the happiest of their 
 species. There are no human beings to an- 
 noy them, they have perpetual summer, and 
 a constant supply of the provisions they are 
 fond of, from the number of flying fishes con- 
 stantly to be found in these latitudes. When 
 the season for hatching their young arrives, 
 they have the uninhabited island of Trinidad 
 to repair to for that purpose, where there is 
 not a creature to molest them; only a few 
 swine left there for propagation by some 
 captain of a ship. How many human beings 
 on the face of the earth resemble these birds! 
 they fare sumptuously every day, and pos- 
 sess the means of obtaining the things which 
 their hearts desire, but they take all as mat- 
 ters of course, without feeling any risings of 
 gratitude to Him to whom they are indebted 
 for all their comforts! The patience of God, 
 in bearing long with such ungrateful human 
 beings, is very wonderful. 
 
 We found the grandeur of the setting sun 
 not at all inferior in the southern, to what it 
 had been in the northern hemisphere; in- 
 deed, during the day, we continued to look 
 forward to the sunset as a season of peculiar 
 enjoyment. The splendour and glory of the 
 western heavens, on that occasion, was now 
 very pleasing and diversified every evening. 
 The lower part of the heavens, as seen 
 through the variously shaped black clouds, 
 resembled a city on fire; above this was 
 spread out a beautiful deep yellow, which 
 
38 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 increased in brightness higher up the hori- 
 zon, till it was gradually lost in a mixture of 
 blue and lilac, which exhibited an indescri- 
 bable richness. The darkness of the neigh- 
 bouring parts of the heavens set off to great 
 advantage the illuminated parts. So splen- 
 did a scene can hardly be viewed with indif- 
 ference by any human being, however de- 
 graded his intellect may be. It is kind in 
 the Creator to exhibit such glory to men tra- 
 versing the mighty deep. It calls them to 
 reflect on his almighty power and goodness. 
 
 January 19. All were aroused and has- 
 tily invited on deck a little before sunrise 
 this morning, to see land for the first time for 
 upwards of two months. The island of Tri- 
 nidad was about eighteen miles to the west- 
 ward of us. The land being high, it was 
 very distinctly seen. Several curious rocks 
 lay about three miles to the eastward of us, 
 which are called Martin Vass Rocks. They 
 stand high out of the water; and the bottom 
 of the ocean near them, being beyond the 
 reach of any line that has been tried, there 
 must be a vast mass of rock under water, 
 concealed from the view of man. Very pro- 
 bably they have been thrown up by some 
 volcanic eruption, like the islands of St. He- 
 lena and Ascension. 
 
 These are parts of the world not frequently 
 seen by the human eye, but they form a fine 
 residence for the innumerable fowls which 
 amuse the navigator in this lonely part of 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 39 
 
 the ocean, and whose eggs or carcasses might 
 supply him with food, were he short of pro- 
 visions. While admiring these magnificent 
 rocks, the sun rose as if from slumbering in 
 the ocean with majestic splendour, which 
 contributed greatly to the beauty of the scene 
 before us. 
 
 The island of Trinidad is only about six 
 miles in circumference, extending nearly s. e. 
 and n. w. It is high and uneven, and in 
 general rocky and barren, but in some parts 
 there are trees on the heights, from twelve 
 to eighteen inches in diameter, particularly 
 about the south end of the island. The seeds 
 from which these trees originally sprung, 
 were probably brought thither by winds and 
 currents from other lands, and by the waves 
 and winds driven upon the land, grew, and 
 yielded seeds of their own kind, which pro- 
 duced other generations of trees: this process 
 may go on till the end of time, when all 
 things shall be dissolved, and the elements 
 shall melt with fervent heat. 
 
 The shore is rocky and of difficult access, 
 occasioned by the high surf that continually 
 breaks on it in every part. At the e. and 
 s. w. sides of the island, good water runs in 
 two small streams. Excepting at the time 
 when rain prevails, these streams are very 
 small, and it seems probable that they may, 
 at some season, be entirely dried up. Wild 
 hogs and goats are found on it; probably left 
 there by some captain of a ship. These are 
 
40 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 the principal proprietors of the island, and 
 enjoy an undisputed sovereignty. 
 
 On the west side, almost detached from 
 the island there is a rock about eight hun- 
 dred and fifty feet high, with trees on it, 
 called the Monument, or Nine Pin; it is of a 
 cylindrical form. There is also a stupendous 
 arch, which perforates a bluff rock, about 
 eight hundred feet high; this is about forty 
 feet in breadth, near fifty in height, and four 
 hundred and twenty in length. The sea 
 breaks through the arch with great noise, 
 and there are more than three fathoms depth 
 of water under the arch, and likewise in the 
 basin formed at its east side. At the s. e. 
 end of the island, there is a rock of a conical 
 form, about eleven hundred and sixty feet 
 high, called the Sugar-loaf, with trees like- 
 wise on its summit; and whenever it rains 
 hard, a beautiful waterfall of about seven 
 hundred feet is projected from it. It was 
 reported by a captain of an Indiaman, who 
 landed upon it, that there is a church, with 
 a cross upon it, standing at the upper part of 
 the easternmost bay. No nation has thought 
 it worth their while to take possession of this 
 island. 
 
 I frequently resumed my glass to take ano- 
 ther and another look at the islands before 
 they were completely out of sight, being 
 verily persuaded I should see them no more. 
 By eleven a. m. the Martin Vass Rocks were 
 out of sight, and Trinidad was invisible by 
 noon. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 41 
 
 By seeing Trinidad we knew the certainty 
 of our longitude, which corresponded exactly 
 with two, out of three, chronometers on 
 board. This was very satisfactory, and was 
 fitted to give confidence in them during the 
 remainder of the voyage. In the days of the 
 ancient Phenicians, Carthaginians, and Ro- 
 mans, their navigators, without compass and 
 chronometer, might have searched twenty 
 years for Trinidad on the immense ocean, 
 without finding it out. 
 
 Latitude at noon 20 deg. 59 min. s., lon- 
 gitude 29 deg. 44 min. w. Thermometer 
 82. We were at that time about eleven 
 miles south of the sun, having passed the 
 line, where it was vertical, or directly over 
 our heads, about eleven, a. m. 
 
 January 20. Thermometer SO. We cross- 
 ed the tropic of Capricorn about eight p. m., 
 so that the torrid zone was left behind. A 
 numerous flock of sea fowls accompanied us 
 the whole day. 
 
 Each tropic extends 23£ deg. or sixteen 
 hundred and twenty-one miles and a half, 
 north and south of the equator. The north 
 tropic was crossed in seventeen days, and 
 the south in twelve days; so that crossing 
 the whole of the torrid zone, containing 47 
 deg. of latitude, or three thousand two hun- 
 dred and forty-three miles, took twenty-nine 
 days: in addition to which, during these 
 twenty-nine days, we had sailed several 
 hundred miles of longitude in a south-east- 
 
42 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 erly direction in the north tropic; and several 
 hundred miles of longitude in a south-west- 
 erly direction in the south tropic. Ther- 
 mometer SO. 
 
 January 23. For two days we saw nei- 
 ther sea fowls nor flying fishes, which made 
 us suppose we had got beyond the region of 
 the latter. As all the fishes we caught with- 
 in the tropics appeared to live chiefly on the 
 flying fish, perhaps that fish, by being con- 
 fined to this region, may be the means of de- 
 taining the others in these latitudes. But 
 what detains the flying fishes themselves ? 
 Perhaps there may be some floating sub- 
 stance on which they feed, which is only 
 produced within the torrid zone, and is not 
 found far beyond its boundaries. It cannot 
 depend entirely on the heat, for it is as hot 
 down to the Cape, during a part of the year, 
 as it is at the equator at that same time. 
 
 January 24. Particular attention seemed 
 to be paid by the sailors to Dr. Philip’s dis- 
 course to day, on the parable of the ten vir- 
 gins, Matt. xxv. Thermometer SO. We 
 were, at noon, within 4 deg. of being as far 
 south as the Cape, yet upwards of two thou- 
 sand miles to the westward of it. We ap- 
 peared now to have got into a sea desert; 
 no skip-jacks or bonitoes leaping above wa- 
 ter, no flying fishes hastening past the ship, 
 nor beautiful dolphins playing around us; 
 no, nor a single fowl darting upon its prey; 
 nothing but a confused assemblage of lan- 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 43 
 
 guid, lifeless waves. In the absence of wind, 
 to cause us to plough the ocean with speed, 
 we sensibly felt the absence of the living 
 parts of the creation of God. However, as 
 we sailed south, new stars were rising into 
 view almost every night. We had left the 
 Pleiades, or the seven stars, a great way 
 behind; Orion, also, was north of us; and 
 the Dog-star almost immediately above our 
 heads; and the twilight continued till near 
 
 S p. M. 
 
 Sunsetting continued to be peculiarly splen- 
 did, though sunrising seemed to us to exceed 
 it, which might arise from our own feelings 
 on these different occasions. Sunrising is 
 the birth of day, and sunsetting its death; the 
 former is succeeded by darkness, the latter is 
 followed by an increase of light. “ Arise, 
 shine,” says the Scripture to Zion ; “ for thy 
 light is come: thy sun shall no more go 
 down.” “ Unto you that fear my name shall 
 the Sun of righteousness arise with healing 
 in his wings.” Happy those souls that live 
 beneath the cheering beams of Christ, the 
 “ Sun of righteousness!” 
 
 January 26 . Witnessed on deck, at five 
 in the morning, the sun rising. There being 
 no clouds in the lower part of the horizon, it 
 seemed to arise from the ocean itself with 
 cheering grandeur. The luminaries of the 
 night, which had attracted so much attention, 
 had all withdrawn, thus, as it were, tacitly 
 yielding to the sun his right to rule the day. 
 
44 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 During the day, the sea was nearly as 
 smooth as if it had been an immense mirror, 
 and had an appearance from which it was 
 impossible to withhold admiration. We now 
 began to feel a dew falling in the evening, 
 by the dampness which our clothes acquired 
 while on deck. 
 
 January 28. We were, to day, nearly 
 opposite to the Cape of Good Hope, in point 
 of latitude. 
 
 January 29 . About ten a. m., a gale of 
 wind rose. When at its height, a whirlwind 
 and water spout were seen ahead of us, but 
 neither injured us. Thermometer 72: which 
 was seven degrees below yesterday, owing 
 to the blowing of the south wind, which is 
 the coldest in the southern hemisphere. 
 
 January 30. The gale continued the whole 
 night, but with rather less severity. The 
 heavens being covered with clouds, no ob- 
 servations could be taken at noon. Squally 
 and baffling winds. Man-of-war birds gene- 
 rally now draw near the ships in the evening, 
 like boobies, perhaps to roost. The latter will 
 allow themselves to be taken by the sailors, 
 rather than be at the trouble to fly away. 
 
 February 1. Found that the gale had 
 driven us considerably back towards the 
 north, as our latitude at noon was 30 de- 
 grees s. Thermometer 74. Held the monthly 
 prayer meeting for the diffusion of the gos- 
 pel among the heathen. 
 
 February 2. The planet Venus was the 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 45 
 
 morning star, and was visible for ten minutes 
 after sunrise. It is surprising how little of 
 the surface of the ocean is visible from the 
 deck of a ship, owing to the globular form of 
 the earth. The eye of the person on deck of 
 such a ship as the Westmoreland, is about 
 fifteen feet from the surface of the water, 
 from which elevation, it has been ascertained, 
 by calculation, that a person so placed could 
 only see three miles and a half, in opposite 
 directions from the deck, as the centre, or 
 seven miles in diameter: multiplying this by 
 three, there is only a circle or circumference 
 of twenty-one miles; a small part of the 
 world, indeed, to be seen at one time. 
 
 February 4. The calm, which we have 
 had for two days, continued; indeed, hardly 
 the least rippling on the surface of the water 
 appeared during the day. A more delightful 
 day could hardly be expected in the middle 
 of the Southern Ocean; the only drawback 
 was our making no progress on our voyage, 
 which the captain said, would “provoke a 
 saint!” This, of course, would be no evi- 
 dence of his saintship. We were nearly in 
 the same position in which we had been 
 about a week before. Nothing with life 
 was either seen above or under water, ex- 
 cept one solitary sea-fowl. Our single ship 
 contained all the living world we could see. 
 What other beings inhabited our globe, was 
 a matter of mere recollection and faith; and 
 5 
 
46 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 that we should ever see more was merely a 
 matter of hope and expectation. 
 
 Association with fellow men is a source 
 of so much human happiness in the present 
 state of things, that, when suspended, there 
 seems a void, which creates a great longing 
 in the mind: this one does not feel, however 
 solitary, on land, for there we can reach so- 
 ciety at pleasure. The most pleasant intel- 
 ligence that could have been brought to us, 
 would have been the springing up of a fresh 
 and favourable breeze of wind; but this could 
 not be effected by human exertion, nor be 
 procured by the aggregate wealth of both the 
 Indies. We must look for wind from Him 
 alone, who said, “ Let there be light, and 
 there was light.” We felt submission to 
 him who worketh all things according to the 
 counsel of his own will; and who had a right 
 to place us, and detain us in whatever part 
 of his empire he pleased. 
 
 February 5. Continued a calm till about 
 eight a. m., when a gentle breeze arose, and 
 increased till we were going at the rate of 
 five miles an hour: but as the heat of the 
 day became more powerful, it gradually, as 
 the sailors say, “ ate up the wind.” 
 
 Nothing is more uncertain to man than the 
 wind, and its very uncertainty assists the 
 animal spirits of many during calms, not 
 knowing but a good wind may come in a 
 few minutes: this disposes seamen to look in 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 47 
 
 every direction for the signs of its approach. 
 However, it almost invariably comes at an. 
 unexpected moment. The moon being near 
 full, the nights were so delightful that we 
 could hardly determine whether our days or 
 nights were most pleasant; the heavens were 
 constantly free from clouds, and the air mild 
 and tranquil. The heavens truly declared 
 their Maker’s glory, and the surrounding ele- 
 ments his handy works; indeed, day unto 
 day uttered speech, and night unto night 
 were sublimely fitted to teach wisdom and 
 knowledge concerning him. But it is the 
 Bible alone, as the revealed will of God, that 
 teaches us that Christ died for our sins, and 
 rose again for our justification. These all- 
 important truths can only be known by reve- 
 lation. 
 
 February 6. During the night we were 
 favoured with a sight of that beautiful con- 
 stellation, called the Cross, because of its re- 
 semblance to a cross. Latitude 34 deg. 4 
 min. s., longitude 13 deg. w. ; which made 
 us still about one thousand six hundred miles 
 from our destination. Thermometer 74 . 
 
 February 8. We were at this time only 
 about eighty-four miles from Tristan d’Acun- 
 ha, a group of islands, which were discovered 
 by a Portuguese of that name. The group 
 consists of three islands, to the largest of 
 which the discoverer gave his own name. 
 It is about six or seven miles in extent, or 
 
4S 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 twenty in circuit, of a square form, being the 
 base of a mountain, which terminates in a 
 peak, elevated eight thousand three hundred 
 and twenty-six feet above the sea; some- 
 times covered with snow when the sun is 
 in the northern hemisphere, and may be 
 seen at ninety miles distance. At the north 
 side of the island, the land rises perpendicu- 
 larly a thousand feet or more from the sea, 
 then ascends with a gentle acclivity to the 
 base of the peaked mountain, which rises 
 majestically over the table land. This island, 
 like St. Helena, is formed of abrupt hilly 
 ridges, with chasms or deep valleys between 
 them, and seems to be of volcanic origin. 
 The trees which grow on the sides of the 
 ridges are small, with spreading branches 
 hanging near the ground. Wild celery, wild 
 parsley, and sorrel, grow plentifully; and 
 wild goats and wild hogs are found in the 
 interior. The cascade, or watering place, is 
 about the middle of the north side of the 
 island, where the water is excellent. The 
 landing is easy, on the east side of it, upon 
 a beach of round pebbles. The Peak is in 
 latitude 37 deg. 6 min. s., longitude 11 deg. 
 44 min. w. Good water is also got with 
 great ease from a small lake at the east side 
 of the bay, which is supplied by falls from 
 the mountains. There are sometimes a rise 
 and fall of the tides about eight or nine feet. 
 
 The shores of this and the adjacent islands 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 49 
 
 abound with seals and sea lions,* and are 
 fronted by strong see- weed, which is seen 
 floating on the water ill their vicinity, and 
 
 * The shores of Tristan d’Acunha are the resort of va- 
 rious species of seal, and among them the gigantic Phoca 
 lenrina of Linn.; ( Mncrorhinus proboscideus , Fred. Cu- 
 vier.) “ This seal,” says Pennant, “ is exclusively a native 
 of the antarctic regions, and delights more especially in 
 such isles as are utterly desolate, to some of which it 
 seems to show exclusive preference.” Captain Carmi- 
 chael, in his description of the island of Tristan d’Acunha, 
 (1817,) refers particularly to these larger seals, of which 
 the males, he says, are from twenty to twenty -five feet in 
 length, and yield seventy gallons of oil. “ They pass,” 
 he adds, “ the greater part of their time on shore, and 
 may be seen in hundreds lying asleep along the sandy 
 beach, or concealed among the long Spartina grass, which 
 borders the sea shore. These huge animals are so little 
 apprehensive of danger that they must be kicked or pelted 
 with stones before they make any attempt to move out of 
 one’s way. When roused from their slumber, they raise 
 the fore part of their body, open wide their mouth, and 
 display a formidable set of tusks; but never attempt to 
 bite. Should this, however, fail to intimidate their dis- 
 turbers, they set themselves at length in motion, and make 
 for the water ; but still with such deliberation, that on an 
 expedition we once made to the opposite side of the island, 
 two of our party were tempted to get astride on the back 
 of one of them, and rode him fairly into the water.” 
 
 These seals exist in great numbers on the island of Juan 
 Fernandez, and visit the islands on Bass’ Straits, the land 
 of Kerguelen, the island of Georgia, and numerous other 
 spots on the southern ocean. Their habits are migratory ; 
 equally averse to severe heat and severe cold, they ad- 
 vance with the winter season from the south to the north, 
 that is, towards the equator, (for they are not natives of 
 the seas north of the line, but south of it;) and as the 
 summer comes on, return in the contrary direction. In 
 June, the shores of King Island are literally blackened by 
 their numbers. — Editor. 
 
The Proboscis Seal. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 51 
 
 patches of it extended to a considerable dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Three Americans settled upon it in IS 1 1 , 
 with the view of preparing seal skins and 
 oil, to dispose of to vessels which might touch 
 there. A detachment of British soldiers were 
 stationed there part of the time Napoleon 
 was at St. Helena. 
 
 The second in the group, called Inaccess- 
 ible Island, lying seven miles to the west- 
 ward, is the middle and westernmost of the 
 group; it is about nine miles in circuit, and 
 may be seen about fifty miles distant. It is 
 level and barren, with a few scattered shrubs 
 on it. Several streams of water issue from 
 the top of the mountain. 
 
 The third is Nightingale Island, the small- 
 est and southernmost of these islands, distant 
 about eighteen miles from Tristan d’Acunha; 
 it is about six or seven miles in circuit, hav- 
 ing two rocky islets off the north-east point, 
 and some at the south point. . There is a 
 difficulty in reaching the shore in a boat, on 
 account of strong seaweed twined together; 
 and, after landing, the interior cannot be 
 penetrated on account of reeds. The shore 
 is covered with penguins* and eggs. There 
 
 * Aptenodytes demersa, Grael . — Le sphenisque du Cap. 
 Cuvier ; or Cape Penguin. The Penguins are all pecu- 
 liar to the antarctic seas, and are expressly adapted for 
 swimming, their wings being admirable paddles, but quite 
 useless as organs of flight. The Cape Penguin is a native 
 of various rocky isles in the seas around the Cape of Good 
 Hope, on which it lays its eggs and rears its young. — 
 Edit. 
 
52 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 The Crested Penguin. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 53 
 
 are also a number of sea elephants and 
 seals. 
 
 There is an island about a hundred and 
 forty miles to the eastward of Tristan, called 
 Gouch’s Island, lying in latitude 40 deg. 19§ 
 min. s. longitude 9 deg. 4H min. w., which 
 is about five or six miles in extent, and fif- 
 teen miles round, elevated about four thou- 
 sand three hundred and eighty-five feet above 
 the sea; its surface is covered mostly with a 
 light coat of mossy grass, and some of the 
 small bushy trees may be observed, which 
 abound in Tristan d’Acunha. The steep 
 cliffs rise almost perpendicularly from the 
 sea, having several beautiful cascades of 
 water issuing from the fissures between them. 
 
 The Church Rock, exactly resembling a 
 church, with a high spire on its western end, 
 is situated near the n. e. point of the island; 
 and to the southward of this rock, on the 
 east side of the island, lies an islet near the 
 shore, within which the landing is safe and 
 easy. Here some men resided belonging to 
 the American ship Baltic; they had been 
 rather unsuccessful during a long stay on the 
 island, most of the seals having deserted it; 
 but they procured plenty of fish, and birds of 
 fine flavour, for subsistence, by lighting a 
 fire on one of the hills in the night. 
 
 A ship that visited this island in Decem- 
 ber, 1813, discovered none of the Americans 
 here, but found that several had been buried, 
 by the inscriptions they observed placed at 
 6 
 
54 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 the burying ground. Three boilers for boil- 
 ing oil, and a quantity of salt for curing skins, 
 were also discovered. 
 
 We expected to have seen the high land 
 of Tristan d’Acunha during the afternoon, 
 when the sun got to the western sky, but we 
 could not distinguish it. 
 
 We frequently observed in these latitudes, 
 that when the moon was to the eastward of 
 us, there was always the appearance of a 
 heavy fall of rain under, as if between us and 
 the lower part of the horizon; but it was not 
 rain, only the appearance, being the same 
 when there is not a speck of cloud in the 
 whole heavens around. 
 
 The position in which Providence has 
 placed the above little islands, so remote from 
 the two great continents of Africa and South 
 America, and likewise from all other lands, 
 is remarkable; and, on some occasions, they 
 may be extremely serviceable to ships which 
 may be long retarded by baffling winds, till 
 their water or provisions, or both, are ex- 
 hausted. By such they would be resorted to 
 as providential store-houses; and should their 
 navigators have a spark of right knowledge, 
 they will adore the wisdom and goodness of 
 that God who has pleased to place them 
 where they are. Like Trinidad and Martin 
 Vass Rocks, they are an undisturbed retreat 
 for innumerable sea fowls.* It is delightful 
 
 * The islands of the Southern Ocean are the resort of 
 vast flocks of Eea birds, among which the booby and the 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 55 
 
 to notice how condescendingly God attends 
 to the wants and comforts of the irrational 
 
 man-of-war bird are conspicuous. The booby is a species 
 of gannet ( Sula ) or rather, several distinct species of this 
 genus, peculiar to the latitudes south of the line, are in- 
 cluded under this denomination. The genus Sula is cha- 
 racterized by a long bill, which is thick at the base, and 
 tapers gradually to a sharp point, constituting a formid- 
 able weapon. Beneath the under mandible the skin is 
 naked and dilatable, and the edges of the upper are fur- 
 rowed with teeth directed backwards, resembling those of 
 a fine saw; the face is naked; the wings are long and 
 pointed ; the tail is graduated ; the four toes are all con- 
 nected together by webs; and the claw of the middle toe 
 is pectinated, as in the heron. Gifted with unwearied 
 powers of flight, the birds of this genus are incessantly 
 soaring over the ocean, eagerly surveying its glassy sur- 
 face in quest of fish, upon which they dart from their ele- 
 vation with amazing velocity. They do not dive, strictly 
 speaking, nor are they expert as swimmers, seldom indeed 
 resting on the water, where, when they do alight, they 
 float without using any exertion. During the breeding 
 season they assemble together in large flocks, and take up 
 their quarters on the most precipitous rocks which over- 
 hang the deep. They lay but one egg, and the young are 
 nearly four years in acquiring the full plumage of maturity. 
 
 The habits and manners of the southern gannets doubt- 
 less agree very closely with those of the British species. 
 In the European seas, however, the gannet is exempt from 
 the persecution of an enemy, by which it is greatly ha- 
 rassed in the inter-tropical ocean ; we allude to the man- 
 of-war bird, which subsists in a great measure upon the 
 labours of this active and industrious fisher. The man- 
 of-war bird is indeed one of the extortioners of the feather- 
 ed tribes, and lives a life of plunder and oppression ; not 
 that it does not fish for itself, but it eagerly avails itself of 
 the opportunity of depriving other fishing birds of their 
 booty, and especially the gannet, which seems, probably 
 on account of its success in fishing, to be a marked victim. 
 
 The mode in which the man-of-war bird forces the 
 gannet to deliver up his booty, puts us in mind of the 
 
56 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 part of his creation, as well as to those of the 
 rational. As an argument for sparing Nine- 
 
 manoeuvre practised by the white-headed eagle, in order to 
 obtain the fish which the industrious osprey has captured. 
 In both cases might prevails over right, and the weaker 
 yields to the more powerful. “ To attain his object,” 
 says a writer who describes from actual observation, “ the 
 man-of-war bird hovers above the gannet, and darting ra- 
 pidly down, strikes him on the back of the head, causing 
 him to disgorge his prey, which is seized by the man-of- 
 war bird with inconceivable rapidity, before it reaches the 
 water: he then soars aloft to iook out for another object 
 of attack. It is not an uncommon circumstance to observe 
 a single gannet selected from a flock, aud come out (at- 
 tacked, most probably, because he separates from the rest,) 
 to be the subject of attack, as if he had been called by the 
 man-of war bird in preference to the others. The gannet, 
 however, does his best to avoid the blow, by lowering 
 himself at every dart of his enemy, and raising his pointed 
 beak in a perpendicular direction to receive him ; by these 
 means it frequently eludes the repeated blows of its anta- 
 gonist, and both fall into the water together, where the 
 gannet having the advantage, usually escapes.” 
 
 At the island of Ascension, where these birds are com- 
 mon, a gentleman, who had seen the gannet disgorge its 
 fish when struck on the head by the man-of-war bird, tried 
 an experiment to the same effect. Visiting the part of the 
 island termed “ The Fair,” where these birds congregate 
 in great numbers, he struck some of them with a cane on 
 the back of the head, when the disgorgement of the fish 
 they had swallowed immediately took place. 
 
 The man-of-war bird (Tachypeles aquila) is a native of 
 the inter-tropics, where it is often seen at a great distance 
 from land. In form, contour, and habits, it strongly re- 
 minds us of the falcon tribe ; and though deriving its 
 food from the stores of ocean, it is incapable of diving and 
 swimming, and never, or very rarely, even rests on the 
 surface of the deep. Its feet are indeed webbed; but the 
 webs are very partial, and the tarsi are short ; the legs are 
 feeble, and covered to the toes with long loose feathers. 
 The tail is long and forked ; the wings are of vast extent ; 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 57 
 
 veh from destruction, it is mentioned that in 
 it were much cattle. God is also said to feed 
 
 the beak is long, powerful, and hooked at the tip ; beneath 
 the throat is a large pouch, (most remarkable in the male,) 
 capable of being distended with air, and which is regarded 
 by most naturalists as an apparatus aiding the bird in its 
 flight. The skin which covers the distended sack exter- 
 nally, is destitute of feathers, and of a deep red colour. 
 The diminutive size and feebleness of the legs rendering 
 the frigate bird incapable of making any progress on the 
 water, equally disqualify it for exercise on shore ; there, 
 encumbered by its vast wings, which it cannot readily 
 bring into vigorous action, (as is the case with the swift, 
 on a level surface,) it is obliged to scramble to the edge of 
 a cliff or the point of a rock, before it can launch itself into 
 the air, where, and where alone, it is in its congenial ele- 
 ment. Mr. Burton, in his paper on the natural history of 
 the Pelecanus aqiiilus, Linn , Tachypetes aquila, Vieill, 
 observes, that besides sweeping off fish and other matters 
 floating on the surface of the water, which it does, as it 
 darts along with the greatest velocity, it has another mode 
 of supplying itself with food. “ It is seen accompanying 
 flocks of seabirds, chiefly the Pelecanus ( Sula ) piscator ; 
 as soon as these have dived (plunged) after fish, and begin 
 to ascend with the prey in their beak, it attacks them, and 
 seizes what they have taken. Wherever a number of these 
 birds are collected in or near the water, they are invariably 
 accompanied by some frigate birds, which hover directly 
 over them, and follow them in their flight. The food of 
 the frigate birds consists almost entirely of fish, and chiefly 
 of the Exocetus volitans, or flying fish, which are the most 
 accessible to them ; though they probably occasionally feed 
 on such of the mollusca as come within their reach, and 
 will also seize pieces of pork, fowls, entrails, or any animal 
 substance thrown to them. A young one covered with 
 down, without any appearance of feathers, except the pri- 
 maries of the wings, and unable to move, when taken, 
 disgorged seven flying-fish ; and the stomach and intestines 
 of all those opened were full of the bones of small fish.” 
 Like the gannet, the female frigate bird lays only one egg; 
 it builds both on trees, and on the ledges of steep preci- 
 
58 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ravens, and to notice the circumstances of 
 sparrows. The wants of all his creatures he 
 notices, and relieves them at the proper time. 
 
 In viewing a complicated machine, there 
 may be many minute parts, the uses of which 
 we cannot conjecture; perhaps we may think 
 it might do as well without them: but when 
 the maker explains the designs of all the 
 parts, pointing out the office of each, or its 
 influence on the general movement, then we 
 perceive that the machine would be defec- 
 tive, or incomplete, if but one pin or wheel 
 were wanting. In like manner, may these 
 islands be absolutely necessary for complet- 
 ing the machinery of the world: at any rate, 
 they would form asylums for mariners whose 
 ships might founder in the vicinity of them, 
 where they might find refuge by means of 
 their boats, when they could have no hope 
 of possibly reaching the remote shores of 
 Africa or America. 
 
 February 9. Passed a great deal of sea 
 weed during the day, most probably driven 
 from the shores of Tristan d’Acunha and the 
 other islands. We succeeded in hooking up 
 a stalk of it, about two yards long, full of 
 white flowers, the whiteness resembling ice, 
 and shaped like the convolvulus, the cup of 
 which Avas nearly in the form of a pear, of 
 a light brown colour; here and there were 
 
 pices, but in the latter case it makes little or no nest. 
 The length of the frigate bird is about three feet, the ex- 
 tent of the expanded wings, seven. — E dit. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 59 
 
 leaves almost of a square shape, only taper- 
 ing a little towards the stalk. We were 
 anxious to catch more, expecting probably 
 we should find a variety, but were unsuc- 
 cessful. Though they must have been sepa- 
 rated for some time from the rocks on which 
 they had grown, yet they appeared vigorous. 
 Indeed, it is probable that they do not derive 
 nourishment from the rocks to which they 
 are naturally attached, but entirely from the 
 water and air, so that they seem to suffer 
 little from their separation. 
 
 In the evening the sailors had a dance on 
 deck, in consequence of our having had a fair 
 wind during the day; so pleased were they 
 at the prospect of seeing land and getting 
 ashore. The moon being in its full, the sun 
 and the moon nearly set and rose together, 
 which was a pleasing sight, no clouds hav- 
 ing interrupted our view of it. About eight 
 p. m. dew fell so heavy, that the deck was 
 wet as if by a shower of rain. Longitude 9 
 deg. 32 min. w., latitude 36 deg. 42 min. s.: 
 thermometer 73. 
 
 February 10. No mould has appeared on 
 my trunks since leaving the tropics. Showers 
 of rain were seen around. 
 
 February 11. In the afternoon the rain 
 poured down in torrents, and completely an- 
 nihilated our wind; so that our ship’s bow 
 pointed to South America, and our stern to 
 Africa. 
 
 February 12. Two vessels passed us, seem- 
 
60 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ingly on their way to the East Indies. Lati- 
 tude 37 deg. 1 min. s., so that we were near 
 two hundred and fifty miles beyond the 
 Cape of Good Hope. Longitude 4 deg. 7 
 min. w. ; thermometer 70. I put on stock- 
 ings for the first time for six or seven weeks, 
 in consequence of the coolness. 
 
 February 13. We had a fine run during 
 the night of eight miles an hour, so that our 
 longitude at noon was reduced to 1 deg. 3 
 min. w., latitude 37 deg. 29 min. s.; ther- 
 mometer 73. The wind continuing fair and 
 strong the whole day, we were in the me- 
 ridian of London about eight p. m.; that is, 
 had a line been drawn from London directly 
 south to the pole, it would have crossed the 
 spot where we then were. Our longitude 
 had hitherto been west of the meridian of 
 London; but, during the remainder of the 
 voyage to the Cape, it would be east of Lon- 
 don. Hitherto time had been later with us 
 than with friends in London, now it must be 
 earlier as we proceed eastward to the Cape. 
 From leaving the south tropic, we had been 
 lessening our distance from the meridian of 
 London. In future we shall be increasing 
 our distance eastward from that meridian. 
 
 February 14. This being likely to be the 
 last Sabbath of the voyage, and consequently 
 of meeting the crew of the Westmoreland, the 
 subject chosen for the discourse, on the quar- 
 ter deck, was the last meeting of mankind 
 together, previous to their eternal separation, 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 61 
 
 from Rom. xiv. 10; “ We shall all stand be- 
 fore the judgment seat of Christ.” 
 
 February 18. A breeze sprang up at noon. 
 Many shell fish were observed swimming 
 on the surface of the water. 
 
 Having had a fine breeze during the night, 
 we found by noon that our longitude was in- 
 creased to 1 1 deg. 55 min., so that our voyage 
 was drawing towards a termination. But the 
 most trying part of my former voyage to Af- 
 rica, was after we had approached the Cape 
 nearer than we are at present, having had to 
 encounter two storms, one of three days, and 
 the other twenty-four hours, which detained 
 us about a fortnight longer from reaching the 
 Cape. 
 
 On the night of the 22d, considering our- 
 selves only about twenty-eight miles distant 
 from land, we judged it safest to “ lay to,” 
 as the seamen term it ; that is, by putting the 
 helm and sails in such positions as to prevent 
 the ship advancing. 
 
 February 23. Land was seen at day-light 
 in the morning. On going on deck, all were 
 gratified by the sight of the real Cape, or 
 most southern point of Africa. We sailed 
 along with the land on our right, admiring 
 the diversified forms of the hills, their strati- 
 fication and cliffs. When about three miles 
 from the anchorage off Cape Town, we saw 
 that a severe gale was blowing from Table 
 Mountain across the bay, from the clouds of 
 sand which it had raised, and which some- 
 
62 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 times obscured the shipping at anchor. We 
 durst not, therefore, venture to attempt get- 
 ting round Green Point in the roadstead, but 
 turned the ship about to keep her under shel- 
 ter of the high land which was between us 
 and the wind. On passing every opening of 
 the mountain, a severe gust of wind rushed 
 down upon us; one of these blew our jib 
 sail to shivers, another tore our topsail to 
 pieces. In consequence of losing these two 
 sails, we were driven about four miles from 
 the land, after being so near as to distinguish 
 the smallest objects on shore. We saw plain- 
 ly the spray from the violent surf among 
 the rocks, driven like smoke to a great dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Observing a brig about five miles to the 
 n. w. of us, which was also attempting to 
 reach the roadstead, get to the lee side of 
 Robin Island, and cast anchor, we attempted 
 to reach the same spot, and succeeded. We 
 immediately let down our anchor, which 
 had a strong chain cable; but this was no 
 sooner down, than the chain cable, on which 
 much dependence was placed, snapped in 
 two, as if it had been made of glass, which 
 circumstance created astonishment and con- 
 fusion, so that we were drifted farther than 
 we wished before we could possibly get out 
 another anchor. The second, being in deep 
 water, did not hold above ten minutes, so 
 that we were driving out to sea, carrying our 
 anchor suspended from the bow. We then 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 63 
 
 tacked inward to the bay, and in an hour 
 our anchor got hold again, on which we 
 threw out a small anchor to assist in keep- 
 ing us to the spot. 
 
 The wind continued to blow hard, attended 
 with lightning, five or six times in each mi- 
 nute, every flash appearing at first like a 
 moon, and in the twinkling of an eye spread- 
 ing in every direction. Having no depen- 
 dence on Cape weather, I had made no pre- 
 paration for going on shore, though most 
 others had every thing packed up, and were 
 ready to go ashore. It was rather trying to 
 these friends, to be obliged to unpack in the 
 evening. 
 
 At ten p. m., such was the pressure of the 
 blast that the ship began to drag her anchors 
 again, but in a few minutes they got fast, 
 and prevented us from driving out to sea. 
 
 February 24. The gale continued the 
 whole night without any abatement. In the 
 morning we had a fine view of three whales,* 
 within about two hundred yards from the 
 ship, which frequently showed the greater 
 part of their bodies out of water. At one 
 time, one of them raised his immense tail 
 perpendicularly out of the water, as if either 
 
 * The Cachalot, or Spermaceti Whale ; PTiyseter ma- 
 crocephalus. This huge whale is found not only in the 
 northern seas, it roams through the great Atlantic, and is 
 often seen off the shores of Southern Africa, and in the 
 Channel of Mozambique : it occurs in troops in the South- 
 ern Ocean, and within the regions of the antarctic circle. 
 — Edit. 
 
64 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 The Cachalot, or Spcrmacoli Whale. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 65 
 
 to convince us of his great strength, or to 
 gratify our curiosity; after which he turned 
 up his head, and spouted water to a great 
 height. They appeared to be at play, heed- 
 less of the stornr, and their gambols were a 
 gratifying sight to us all. 
 
 Table Mountain, from whence the gale 
 proceeded, continued to retain its gloomy at- 
 tire of thick clouds, and poured forth with 
 violence its windy treasures, like a lion roar- 
 ing from his den, threatening destruction to 
 all who should approach. At noon the gale 
 increased, causing the ship again to drag her 
 anchors into deeper water, so that they did 
 not, as on the preceding night, again get fast 
 to the bottom; but the captain, unwilling to 
 lose two such necessary servants, wished 
 them to remain suspended from our bow: 
 however, as there was no alternative, both 
 cables were obliged to be cut and committed 
 to the deep, for the preservation of the ship, 
 and off we fled for refuge to the ocean. We 
 had only one more anchor left. At four p. m. 
 the gale moderated a little; and, at the going 
 down of the sun, Table Mountain was still 
 in sight, about twenty miles to the s. e. 
 of us. 
 
 Almost every person on board complained 
 of pains in the eyes, from the small sand 
 driven from the shore by the fury of the 
 wind. 
 
 The wind blew strong a great part of the 
 night. At four in the morning, a wave 
 
66 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 came with such violence against the ship’s 
 bow, as to awaken most who were asleep. 
 At day-light, though we had been sailing 
 from about midnight in the direction of the 
 shore, no land could be seen; however, 
 about six a. m., Table Mountain, with her 
 still cloud-capped summit, was descried from 
 the deck. We were pleased to see the cloud, 
 which had appeared to be immovably rivet- 
 ed to Table Mountain, gradually lessening; 
 a sign of the return of calm weather. By 
 two o’clock it was all gone, so that it and 
 all the neighbouring mountains were visible 
 from their base to their summits. 
 
 The sun, from the refraction, or breaking 
 of the natural course of its rays, had a singu- 
 lar appearance while setting in the evening; 
 appearing first double, as if there were two 
 suns, the one immediately above the other ; 
 then like an upright, not a tapering, tum- 
 bler; and, lastly, like an inverted tea cup, 
 and another above it. A cloud skirted the 
 horizon, to appearance about six feet above 
 it. The sun had not disappeared above 
 twenty minutes when the new moon was 
 visible; the illuminated part seemed as small 
 as cord. The heavens retained, for half an 
 hour, a beautiful transparent orange colour, 
 in the place where the sun went down. 
 
 February 26 . We found in the morning 
 that the light s. w. wind, which blew in the 
 night, had brought us again inside Penguin, 
 or Robin Island, and by ten o’clock we were 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 67 
 
 opposite to Cape Town, where we cast an- 
 chor. 
 
 The harbour master, who soon came on 
 board, informed us, that owing to the heavy- 
 gales, all communication with the shipping 
 from the shore had been suspended for a 
 week. 
 
 At one p. m. we went ashore in the ship’s 
 boat, and were pleased once more to tread 
 on firm ground, after being nearly three 
 months sailing on the deep. We felt grate- 
 ful to God for conducting us in safety to our 
 desired haven. Next day, with great diffi- 
 culty, we got our trunks on shore, owing to 
 the strength of the wind, and because the 
 ship lay about five miles from the pier. 
 
68 
 
 PART II. 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 Cape Town, the capital of the colony of the 
 Cape of Good Hope, or country of the Hot- 
 tentots, is large, and laid out after a regular 
 plan, containing many spacious streets, with 
 superb houses. These are generally painted 
 white in front, and have a terrace, on which 
 the families walk in the cool of the evening, 
 which gives them a fine appearance. In- 
 deed, a stranger, on his arrival from Europe, 
 could hardly expect to find so elegant a town; 
 and should he arrive early in the morning, 
 or towards evening, he would be surprised 
 to see covered wagons, drawn by twelve, 
 fourteen, and sixteen oxen, hastening to the 
 centre of the town, the front oxen led by a 
 black lad, or a Hottentot, almost without a 
 covering, with a boor* sitting on the front of 
 the wagon, wearing a broad brimmed hat, and 
 dexterously using an immense whip, lashing 
 oxen thirty or forty feet from him. He will 
 also be struck by observing people in the 
 street of every hue, from the purest white 
 down to jet black. When night comes, he 
 
 * A Dutch farmer. 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 G9 
 
 will be disappointed at finding no lamps on 
 the sides of those fine streets, to show him 
 his way; though he will see lights, in lan- 
 terns, moving in all directions, carried by 
 slaves, who dare not be found out of doors 
 after dark without a lantern; for, if so found, 
 they are immediately taken by watchers to 
 the tronk, or prison, from which they cannot 
 be released without both trouble and expense 
 to their masters. 
 
 Most strangers are delighted with the 
 walks in what is called the Company’s Gar- 
 dens. The principal walks have a row of 
 oaks on each side; the branches, with their 
 thick foliage, forming a complete arch over 
 the walk, effectually screen the passenger 
 from the powerful rays of an almost vertical 
 sun. These walks are ornamented, on both 
 sides, with lovely hedges of myrtle. Few of 
 the natives are ever to be found in them 
 during the heat of the day, in consequence of 
 their dining early, and afterwards going to 
 bed for about a couple of hours. From the 
 hours of ten in the morning till four o’clock 
 in the afternoon, few persons appear in the 
 streets excepting slaves. The Sabbath being 
 the slaves’ holiday, every street and road 
 around the town swarms with them: the 
 generality of them having as little knowledge 
 of God and revealed truths as the natives of 
 the interior of Africa, who have never seen 
 a white man or a printed leaf. 
 
 I shall now relate some occurrences which 
 7 
 
70 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 took place, while our wagons were prepar- 
 ing for our journeys into the interior. I 
 shall relate them in the order in which they 
 occurred. 
 
 March 2, 1 S 1 9. There are a considerable 
 number of Malays, from the East Indies, in 
 Cape Town; many of whom are slaves, and 
 almost all of them are Mohammedans. The 
 delusions of the false prophet have, of late 
 years, spread very extensively among the 
 si aves, through the ignorance in which they 
 are left by their masters. 
 
 I witnessed to-day a Malay funeral. The 
 coffin was carried to the grave suspended by 
 poles, which rested on the shoulders of four 
 men, the whole somewhat resembling a hand 
 barrow for carrying stones, covered with a 
 white sheet suspended by a slight arch of 
 canes. The grave, which was deep, was 
 dug on the side of Lionrump Hill. For a 
 few minutes after the arrival of the corpse, 
 and while placing it in the grave, a tempo- 
 rary roof remained on the grave, and the at- 
 tendants, to the number of about sixty per- 
 sons, stood holding up both hands, muttering 
 something. Then taking off the covering, 
 six men commenced throwing in the earth 
 with spades. While this was performing, 
 the attendants stood conversing in groups, 
 sometimes laughing aloud. 
 
 When the grave was filled, a Mohamme- 
 dan priest sat down by its side, took a roll 
 from his pocket, and immediately commenced 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 71 
 
 reading, or rather chanting the contents of it. 
 As very little appeared to be written in the 
 roll, he must have read it over many times. 
 On finishing this paper, he rolled it up, and, 
 looking around upon the people present, pro- 
 nounced something that sounded to me like 
 allah-hi-tee .* The whole company then 
 
 joined in repeating the same words, allah- 
 hi-tee, allah-hi-tee, the priest always taking 
 the lead. I remained listening for about half 
 an hour to the whole company repeating it 
 as fast as they could; when feeling tired, I 
 walked off, meditating on the scene as a com- 
 ment on our Lord’s direction to his follow- 
 ers, Matt. vi. 7, “ Eut when ye pray, use not 
 vain repetitions, as the heathen do: for they 
 think that they shall be heard for their much 
 speaking.” The Lord’s prayer which he 
 taught his disciples, is very short, but mar- 
 vellously comprehensive, and contains not 
 one repetition! 
 
 March 6. The Cadres, the next nation 
 beyond the colony on the eastern side of 
 Africa, are become extremely troublesome. 
 They lately attacked Theopolis, our nearest 
 missionary station to them; but, though 
 beaten off, they succeeded in capturing six 
 or seven hundred head of cattle, belonging 
 to the poor Hottentots at that station. They 
 attacked likewise the Moravian settlement, 
 from which they were also beaten off, but 
 
 * Allah is the Arabic for God. 
 
72 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 not till they had done much damage. The 
 gospel alone can tame these ferocious, sa- 
 vage men. 
 
 March 17. Went with my kind host, Mr. 
 Breda, in his chariot, to visit his uncle, at 
 Rondebosch, behind, or on the south side of 
 Table Mountain, under the north front of 
 which stands Cape Town. The morning 
 was sultry. On the way, we halted a while 
 at a muster of boors (farmers) of the Cape 
 district, who were to march against the 
 Cadres on the morrow; a march of about six 
 hundred miles. Carriages, gigs, and wagons, 
 full of people from the town, were on the 
 ground to witness the scene. The landdrost, 
 or sheriff, was arranging the business in a 
 tent, on the front of which was a crown, and 
 under it were painted the letters, G. R. and 
 C. V. justitie. He was appointing corpo- 
 rals, then selecting the ten men whom each 
 corporal was to command, and allotting a 
 tent to each ten. I learned that some of 
 them were very averse to the expedition. I 
 was pleased to observe that no liquor of any 
 kind was to be seen on the ground. I only 
 saw two black men carrying about baskets, 
 containing cakes to be disposed of; but I 
 noticed no purchasers. How different the 
 scene would have been, had a similar collec- 
 tion of people been in the neighbourhood of 
 London! but there is more sobriety here. 
 
 On proceeding on our way, we passed 
 several very elegant mansions, all painted as 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 73 
 
 white as snow. This whiteness throws off 
 the heat of the sun’s powerful rays, and con- 
 sequently renders the house cooler within. 
 The stupendous cliff of Table Mountain being 
 immediately behind those houses, on the 
 right hand side of the road, greatly added to 
 the grandeur of their appearance. We passed 
 the governor’s house, called Newlands, on 
 the left ; and a little farther brought us to 
 Rondebosch, where dwelt the uncle of my 
 friend, in a handsome mansion. We found 
 a large party had finished dining some time 
 before our arrival, but they soon placed be- 
 fore us, an abundant meal. The old gentle- 
 man, Mr. Breda, was extremely lively, and 
 was free and kind to all his guests; all could 
 easily perceive they were welcome. He 
 walked with us over part of his extensive 
 grounds; he showed us one of his vineyards, 
 which he had planted only five months be- 
 fore, which was thriving remarkably. 
 
 On returning from our ramble, we found 
 the ladies taking coffee at a table in the great 
 hall, opposite the front door; and the gen- 
 tlemen having theirs brought to them on the 
 terrace, in front of the house, to enjoy as 
 much coolness as they could. High trees so 
 thickly' stood around the house, that it ap- 
 peared as in the middle of a forest; and many 
 of them being chestnut, the ground under 
 them was strewed with their fruit. Mr. 
 Breda pointed to a limb of a tree standing 
 next his house: “On coming out the other 
 
 
74 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 morning,” said he, “ we observed a tiger 
 standing on that limb; we instantly ran for 
 our guns, and shot him dead.” 
 
 Before setting off for Cape Town, we 
 were noticing the beauty and calmness of the 
 evening, which made Mr. Breda look up- 
 wards to the summit of Table Mountain, and, 
 seeing it was covered with a dense white 
 cloud, he said there was a severe gale on the 
 other side of the mountain. “ And,” said 
 he, “you will feel it when you turn the cor- 
 ner.” The truth of this remark we expe- 
 rienced on our return. For the first two or 
 three miles, hardly a leaf was moved by 
 wind; but we had no sooner proceeded 
 round the east end of the mountain, than 
 we saw dense clouds of sand furiously flying 
 over Cape Town; all the ships in the roads 
 were enveloped in the cloud of sand, which 
 also extended far beyond them in the ocean. 
 The wind blew directly from the front of the 
 mountain : this furious stream of air was not 
 much above a mile in breadth. Except the 
 cloud which clung to the mountain, there 
 was not another to be seen in any direction. 
 
 As we rode out during the heat of the day, 
 I was astonished to observe the rapidity with 
 which the Mozambique slaves trotted along 
 with considerable burdens, suspended at both 
 ends of a pole, which was laid across their 
 shoulders; indeed, some of them kept up 
 with our vehicle, though drawn by two hor- 
 ses, while the thermometer must have been 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 75 
 
 at about 90 deg. One could not but desire 
 they might possess the hope of eternal life 
 through faith in Jesus Christ, that their minds 
 might have a source of comfort to support 
 them under the tiresome and unwearied toils 
 of an unfriendly world. The gospel, in a 
 peculiar sense, ought to be good news to men 
 so circumstanced. The mercy, grace, and 
 salvation of Christ, are equally free to the 
 lowest, the most debased, despised, and op- 
 pressed of mankind, as to the most opulent 
 and honourable. 
 
 The land, for twelve or fifteen miles round 
 Cape Town, is chiefly sand, and consequent- 
 ly extremely barren, except that immediately 
 surrounding Table Mountain, which is very 
 fertile, arising from the abundance of water 
 flowing in copious streams from that moun- 
 tain reservoir, with which the vineyards and 
 gardens are irrigated. The owners have a 
 ready market in Cape Town for whatever 
 their land produces, especially their corn and 
 wine. The ships of various nations, touch- 
 ing for supplies, greatly increase the con- 
 sumption. 
 
 March 19. We called upon the Rev. Mr. 
 Fleck, senior minister of the colony, who has 
 been here from the year 17S1. His house 
 stands in the midst of charming gardens, to 
 which there is a gradual ascent from the 
 town. The view from his windows is ex- 
 tensive and variegated, including the coun- 
 
 
76 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 try beyond the town, which it completely 
 overlooks, the company’s gardens, and the 
 shipping in the bay. Along the whole front 
 of the house is suspended on pillars an open 
 treilised roof, perhaps thirty yards in length 
 by three in breadth, from which hang innu- 
 merable clusters of grapes, which give it a 
 most interesting appearance, and form an 
 agreeable shade to those who choose to walk 
 on the terrace. Most of the houses around 
 have something similar in front. In the gar- 
 den we observed the banana, palms, and 
 other tropical plants, growing luxuriantly. 
 
 We preach, every Sabbath morning and 
 afternoon, in the Orphan House, at the side 
 of the town: and we also preach in a large 
 school house, in the centre of the town, in 
 the evening. The Orphan House is built in 
 the form of a cross, and were it filled with 
 seats would accommodate about a thousand 
 persons. We had one of the wings supplied 
 with benches used in the school. It has a 
 considerable echo, which renders it difficult 
 to speak in. The building was intended for 
 an orphan asylum, but only six or eight or- 
 phans have yet been received into it. There 
 are only a small number of needy orphans, 
 most free people who die having sufficient 
 property to leave behind them for the sup- 
 port of their children; and the children of 
 slaves being, like their parents, the property 
 of their masters, must be supported by them. 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 I i 
 
 In consequence of this being the state of 
 things, this spacious edifice remains almost 
 untenanted. 
 
 Some hundreds of prize slaves, or appren- 
 tices as they are called, have been brought 
 into the colony since the abolition of the 
 slave trade, from slave ships captured and 
 carrried into this port. Lately a Portuguese 
 slave ship came into Table Bay, from stress 
 of weather or scarcity of provisions. During 
 a violent gale of wind this vessel was driven 
 on shore, when most of the slaves were saved 
 by the strenuous exertions of people from 
 the shore ; having been landed on a British 
 settlement, the Portuguese captain was not 
 permitted to re-ship them as slaves, but they 
 were all detained by the government, and 
 distributed among masters as apprentices, for 
 fourteen years, under a written covenant to 
 teach them the Christian religion, some trade, 
 and also reading. The children of these ap- 
 prentices are all to be free, and will by and 
 by afford an opportunity to families that feel 
 reluctant to possess slaves to provide them- 
 selves with free servants. I believe there are 
 many families who have slaves, among the 
 native population of Cape Town, who would 
 prefer being without them, if they knew how 
 to obtain free servants. 
 
 Opposite to my window, a slave child, a 
 boy, about eighteen months old, fell and hurt 
 his fingers on the gravel, which made him 
 cry both loud and long. A little slave girl, 
 8 
 
78 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 only two years and a half old, sat on the 
 ground beside him, gently clapping him on 
 the back, and singing to him to comfort him. 
 The little fellow frequently held out his finger 
 to her where he felt the pain, which she 
 kindly examined while continuing her little 
 childish song. I knew the sweet temper of 
 this little black girl, but I never had before 
 observed it so disinterestedly displayed, for 
 she did not know that any person witnessed 
 her conduct on the occasion. 
 
 Many of the slaves have the Sabbath en- 
 tirely to themselves. A number of them 
 spend it in collecting and bringing firewood 
 from the mountains, or rushes for litter for 
 horses, which they dispose of in the town; 
 others employ their time in selling grapes, 
 fish, and other articles, having never been 
 taught the fear of God or the knowledge of 
 his will. But I hope better times are ap- 
 proaching, when all shall be taught to know 
 the Lord, from the least to the greatest, from 
 the slave to the governor; for all are equally 
 exposed to the condemnation of God, for 
 breaking his commandments, and all are 
 equally invited to receive salvation by Jesus 
 Christ. 
 
 March 26 . Having resolved to ascend to 
 the summit of Table Mountain, and the wea- 
 ther appearing suitable for such an excursion, 
 we left Cape Town about ten o’clock, a. m. 
 Our little party consisted of Dr. P., Mr. T. 
 from Southampton, Mr. R. from London, 
 
CAPE TOWN. 79 
 
 Mr. E. from Bethelsdorp, and myself, with 
 two Hottentots. 
 
 We went forward, ascending by the side 
 of a brook, where scores of slaves were em- 
 ployed in washing clothes, by rubbing them 
 over with soap and cold water, and beating 
 them violently on smooth stones. Most of 
 them were blacks, from Mozambique; others 
 were women of colour, with about half a 
 dozen men. In general they appeared very 
 cheerful, singing the songs of their native 
 country; they scarcely took the smallest no- 
 tice of us as we passed them; indeed, when 
 Mr. E., who was behind, and hastened to 
 join us, inquired if they had seen three or 
 four gentlemen pass lately, they said they 
 had not. 
 
 Before we reached the steep part of the 
 ascent, it began to rain, which obliged us 
 to take shelter under an overhanging rock. 
 When the rain had almost ceased, we recom- 
 menced our labour. Though the bottom of 
 the stupendous cliffs of the mountain appear- 
 ed near us, we were much longer in reaching 
 them than we had calculated: their bulk de- 
 ceived us. At length, after much scrambling, 
 we reached the bottom of the kloof, or only 
 passage by which the summit is accessible. 
 It is a steep ascent between two lofty crags, 
 the top of which appeared so near, that we 
 expected half an hour’s exertion would ter- 
 minate our toil; but after struggling for an 
 hour, the top appeared as distant as before. 
 
80 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 However, after ascending as fast as possible 
 for three hours and a half from the time we 
 commenced, we were standing on the pinna- 
 cle of the mountain, surveying the world be- 
 low, and feeling gratified that we had perse- 
 vered. 
 
 With much pleasure we looked down upon 
 the gardens under the mountain, four thou- 
 sand feet lower than the spot on which we 
 stood. We saw Cape Town, the bay, and 
 the country as far as the Moravian settlement 
 at Groene Kloof; likewise Hottentot Holland, 
 Stellenbosch, and Dragenstein Mountains, 
 including the intervening plains. 
 
 We found the summit to be an extensive 
 plain, but we were afraid to remove from 
 the spot to which we had ascended, as some- 
 times a dense cloud will cover the top in the 
 course of a very few minutes, which would 
 render it extremely difficult to find out the 
 place to descend. In this way, a few years 
 ago, two officers were bewildered, and were 
 not able to retrace their way to the kloof. In 
 the attempt to find it, one of them fell over a 
 cliff, and was dashed to pieces. Being thus 
 warned, none of us ventured out of sight of 
 the kloof. We slightly examined a few of 
 the plants we found growing around, and 
 were pleased to observe two or three of the 
 heaths found in Britain. Great part of the 
 surface we saw was covered with large flat 
 rocks, as if paved with huge flag stones. I 
 saw afterwards, about a thousand miles up 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 81 
 
 the country, two or three large districts paved 
 much in the same way, not on hills, but on 
 the plain. 
 
 From the rain that had fallen a little be- 
 fore, we found plenty of water to quench 
 our thirst in hollow parts of the rock, which 
 greatly refreshed us. Lest darkness should 
 overtake us, we hastily took a last view of 
 the varied and extended scenery below us, 
 and hastened down the kloof to a projecting 
 rock, about one thousand feet below, while 
 the clouds were plentifully pouring down 
 upon us their watery treasures. Getting un- 
 der covert of the rock, we were protected from 
 the rain, and had an opportunity of partaking 
 of some victuals we had brought with us, 
 which we did with good appetites and great 
 haste. No sooner had we concluded our re- 
 past, than we recommenced our descent. 
 We were all soon drenched with rain, and 
 covered with dirt, from falls and rubs against 
 rocks we had to pass. But for the rain we 
 might, now and then, have halted to rest 
 ourselves, which we needed, for we felt the 
 descent much more fatiguing than the ascent; 
 but the rain obliged us to continue our exer- 
 tions without cessation, not only to the foot 
 of the mountain, but until we reached our 
 homes, which we happily effected about half- 
 past four in the afternoon, some of us being 
 completely exhausted. As the country stood 
 so much in need of rain, we could not mur- 
 mur because of our exposure to it. Thus 
 
82 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 terminated an expedition I had often resolved 
 to attempt, daring my former visit to Africa, 
 without having accomplished it. 
 
 March 28 . After preaching in the morning 
 at the Orphan House, I afterwards went to 
 Somerset Hospital, and held conversation 
 with the patients, who were mostly seamen. 
 One, who was afflicted with dropsy, about 
 fifty years of age, had been many voyages to 
 India. He had made a little money, and, 
 poor fellow ! was very anxious to get home 
 to live upon what he had acquired; but his 
 desire was not likely to be gratified. He was, 
 as might be expected, very ignorant, but was 
 very willing to hear what I said to him. 
 
 Another, of the name of Campbell, from a 
 South Sea whaler, who was born at Belfast, 
 said, that when young he would not attend 
 to his education. He was now reduced, by 
 a flux and constant internal pain, to a weak 
 state. He professed to be certain, that if he 
 got better he should repent, and never live 
 again such a life as he had done. Having 
 stated to him the depravity of our nature, the 
 deceitfulness of the human heart, the enmity 
 of the natural mind against God and every 
 thing good, the necessity of being born again, 
 and other truths, with my fears that, were he 
 to recover, he would very probably relapse 
 to his former conduct, he again expressed his 
 conviction that he never could live as he had 
 formerly been accustQmed to do. But, alas! 
 
CAPE TOWN. 83 
 
 how often have similar resolutions been made 
 and broken ! 
 
 Another patient, a stone mason, was em- 
 ployed in reading the History of London. 
 When I told him that I thought he might be 
 much better employed on the sabbath day, 
 in reading the Scriptures or some religious 
 book, he said, he thought there was no harm 
 in reading the History of London, which he 
 was sure was a good book. His companions 
 near him were much of the same mind. 
 
 March 30. Mrs. Breda, my kind hostess, 
 mentioned an effectual way for obtaining 
 complete relief from the toothache, which 
 was adopted by one of her mother’s slaves. 
 Having been troubled for some time by pain- 
 ful attacks of toothache, he one day went out 
 and got the whole of his teeth extracted. On 
 returning home, it was soon discovered, by 
 the alteration on his countenance, what he 
 had done. When asked his reason for acting 
 so strangely, he said, he thought it better to 
 have his pain taken away at once, than to be 
 always troubled by it; not reflecting on the 
 inconvenience he thereby brought upon him- 
 self for life. The females of the Coranna 
 Hottentots are equally unthinking in this re- 
 spect. Should they feel a pain in their shoul- 
 der, they will cut off the first joint of their 
 little finger, merely to let blood; and, should 
 they afterwards feel pain in their elbow, they 
 cut off the second joint of the same finger, 
 hoping by the bleeding to be relieved from 
 
84 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 the present pain; not thinking of the incon- 
 venience for life they subject themselves to 
 by the loss of a finger, merely to get relief 
 from a temporary pain. From imbecility of 
 mind, they literally do not think of to-morrow. 
 
 The price of grain has risen lately to a fear- 
 ful height, owing to a bad crop in some dis- 
 tricts in the colony; but I was told to-day, 
 that in the district of Bokkeveld, to the north 
 of the Cape, grain was plenty and cheap; 
 yet the land carriage being so expensive, little 
 of it finds its way to Cape Town. Were 
 there navigable rivers, or their substitutes, 
 canals; or were there harbours along the 
 coast, which there are not, markets could be 
 easily supplied; but, for want of these, they 
 must depend upon the immediate neighbour- 
 hood of the Cape, and Algoa Bay, five hun 
 dred miles off, where vessels can take in sup- 
 plies. The supplies sent to St. Helena have 
 increased the scarcity, there being many more 
 soldiers and sailors there now than in former 
 years, kept to guard Bonaparte. St. Helena 
 can do but very little for supporting its inha- 
 bitants: without supplies from Africa and 
 America, all would be starved. 
 
 April 1. Our friend, Mr. Beck, who had 
 for some time been agent for the Missionary 
 Society in South Africa, called, with a four 
 horse wagon, to take us on a visit to his 
 friends at Constantia. Our road lay round 
 Table Mountain as before when going to 
 Rondebosch, which we passed. We went 
 
cape town. 
 
 85 
 
 through the village of Wineberg, composed 
 of straggling houses, which were formerly 
 used as barracks, but now deserted, except 
 a few of the best of them, which are occu- 
 pied by officers of the army as country 
 houses. The road then, for two or three 
 miles, passed through a natural forest of 
 shrubs, truly beautiful. We stopped first at 
 Madeira Farm, where we were kindly re- 
 ceived, and treated with what they called 
 tiffin, a luncheon, consisting of a variety of 
 fruits and light food. We had a delightful 
 walk over their garden; and an agreeable 
 rest and conversation in a beautiful summer 
 house, composed of oak trees, where we 
 were quite screened from the sun’s scorching 
 rays. 
 
 Leaving Madeira Farm, we walked to 
 Constantia, about a mile nearer the moun- 
 tain. The mansion, like the one we had 
 left, was a princely edifice; the wine stores 
 extensive and superb, and the vineyards 
 around were very interesting. The ground 
 is uneven, and each vineyard being surround- 
 ed by tall oak trees, the place appeared like 
 a wood. The spot on which the house, 
 stores, and other buildings stand, has been 
 wisely chosen on an eminence, having an 
 extensive view of the country and the In- 
 dian Ocean. We had a second tiffin, and a 
 glass of Constantia wine, on the farm where 
 alone it is produced. Slips from the Con- 
 stantia vine have been tried in various parts 
 
86 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 of the Cape colony; but away from their 
 favourite native soil, they never produce 
 grapes of the same flavour as they do at 
 what may be called their home. 
 
 April 13. The rain has fallen in torrents 
 the whole day, attended with much light- 
 ning and some thunder. It will carry off a 
 deal of filth which has been accumulating 
 before many of the houses of the poorer sort 
 for the last eight or nine months, which will 
 greatly refresh the town. The gardens also, 
 which have long languished for want of 
 water, will now be softened, dug, and sown, 
 and soon will send forth vegetables, of which 
 there is great need at present. 
 
 April 15. We walked to the kloof, or 
 pass between Table Mountain and the Liou’s 
 Head, which is at the head of the road 
 where I reside: the road is an ascent for 
 about three miles. On reaching the kloof, 
 there opens an extensive view of the sea at 
 Camp’s Bay. We halted at what is called a 
 fort, where only two soldiers were stationed. 
 Their minds seemed to be much injured by 
 having nothing to do; they were listless and 
 indolent. Even Adam, in innocence, had 
 work assigned to him ; he was to prune the 
 trees of paradise: and we are sure there is 
 not one idle angel in heaven ; for we are told 
 they are all ministering spirits, sent forth to 
 minister. 
 
 Taking leave of the soldiers, we walked 
 gently down the hill towards the ocean, ob- 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 87 
 
 serving its foaming billows fruitlessly, though 
 furiously, dashing against the rocks which 
 defend the land; but retiring with far less 
 noise and bustle than they had advanced, as 
 if ashamed of their imbecility; for God lias 
 set bounds to his sea, in both hemispheres, 
 saying to it, “Hitherto shalt thou come, but 
 no further: and here shall thy proud waves 
 be stayed,” Job xxxviii. 11; and his word 
 must be obeyed. 
 
 I had the pleasure, in the evening, of meet- 
 ing with three interesting strangers, whom 
 our missionary, Mr. Moffat, had brought 
 with him from Namaqualand. The first, 
 Christian Africaner, once a plundering chief, 
 and the terror of that part of the colony, 
 which, from its position, was most exposed 
 to his attacks and depredations, and the man 
 whom I was most afraid to meet when 
 crossing the African continent on ray former 
 tour. The second was a man from Damara, 
 the country beyond Great Namaqualand. 
 The third, a Bootchuana from Leyesey’s 
 Kraal, or town, not far from Lattakoo. A 
 most interesting group ! 
 
 I could not but view with astonishment 
 the change that grace had made on Africaner, 
 saying, in my mind, “ Is this the man who 
 was the terror of tribes far up Africa, when I 
 was travelling among them only a few years 
 ago ! Is this the man who burned to ashes 
 our mission station at Warm Bath, which 
 had some influence in bringing about the 
 
88 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 death of our excellent missionary, Mrs. Al- 
 bright! Is this the man who now loves Jesus 
 Christ, and us for his sake l” 
 
 During the evening these three strangers 
 were shown a kaleidoscope, which was then 
 a new invention, and attracted very great 
 notice. Africaner, who appeared always 
 grave, viewed it with an unaltered counte- 
 nance, except a pleasant smile at any parti- 
 cular change in the form within, when he 
 turned it round. Both the Damara and the 
 Bootchuana were far more affected. When, 
 by turning the kaleidoscope, the form of the 
 objects within was instantaneously altered, 
 they were startled as if they had received an 
 electric shock; they hastily gave up the in- 
 strument, placed their hands on their eyes, 
 turned their heads to the wall, and laughed 
 aloud, after which they returned to take 
 another look. Nothing could be more na- 
 tural than their expressions of surprise and 
 astonishment. 
 
 They were similarly affected by being 
 placed opposite to a looking glass, which 
 happened to be in the room where they were. 
 The Damara man said, he did not understand 
 how he could be here, pointing to his body, 
 and also there, pointing to the glass. They 
 also viewed a watch with peculiar interest. 
 
 They went next to visit Dr. Philip, who 
 lay sick in his bed room. On their return, 
 we asked them to sit in the middle of the 
 room while we held a conversation with 
 
CAPE TOWN. 89 
 
 them. I had the following conversation with 
 Africaner: 
 
 “ Did you hear of my travelling down the 
 Great Orange River, about six years ago ?” 
 “ Yes.” 
 
 “ Where did you reside then ?” “ On the 
 north side of the Great River, about seventy 
 miles higher up than opposite to Pella.” 
 
 “ Did you receive a letter from me, that I 
 sent you from Pella?” “Yes.” 
 
 “Who brought it to you?” “Abraham, a 
 man from the Griqua country, a friend of 
 mine, who came down the Great River with 
 you; he brought it to me.” 
 
 “Who read my letter to you?” “Yagher, 
 my brother, now called David, who could 
 read, read it to me.” 
 
 “How did you receive what the letter of- 
 fered to you ?” “ I was glad of the offer of a 
 missionary. I had long, in my heart, wished 
 for a teacher.” 
 
 “ Did you get an answer written to the 
 letter?” “Yes; my brother Yagher wrote an 
 answer, and we sent it by a man to the Gri- 
 qua country, and from there it was sent to 
 the colony, to go to you at the Cape.” 
 
 1 told him 1 had never received that let- 
 ter. 
 
 “ What did you write ?” “ I desired a mis- 
 sionary to be sent, and that he might be an 
 Englishman.” 
 
 “ Did you hear that a wild Bushman had 
 murdered one of my Hottentots?” “Yes, I 
 
90 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 heard of it some time after, and that it was 
 to get your cattle that he did it.” 
 
 “ What did you think of the action, when 
 you heard of it?” “ I thought it was abomi- 
 nable.” 
 
 “ Why did you think it was abominable?” 
 “ Because I knew your object was good in 
 coming into that country, and I wished to 
 see you.” 
 
 “ Do you know the Bushman’s name that 
 murdered my Hottentot ?” “Yes; his name 
 is Dovey Ghap.” 
 
 “ Where does he live ?” “ Near the water- 
 fall on the Great River.” 
 
 I then asked April Job, the Damara con- 
 vert, when and how he first heard of God. 
 He said it was long ago, when Berns, a Gri- 
 qua chief, and some of his people, came into 
 the Damara country to shoot elephants. They 
 often read to him, and some others, out of 
 the Testament, explaining from the book to 
 them, in their own language, about God, 
 and Jesus Christ his Son. He had always 
 thought that some greater Being than he 
 knew of, must have raised or made the great 
 mountains: and he never could think how 
 the sun was kept up; he often felt afraid lest 
 it should fall down upon him. 
 
 “ Did you ever think how a tree grew from 
 a small seed, or how you yourself grew, and 
 how your arms were both alike, and the 
 same number of fingers at the end of each, 
 as proofs of the existence of some mighty 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 91 
 
 Agent?” “No,” said he, “I never thought 
 of such things; they were too deep for a 
 Damara; they confuse his mind, and make 
 him stupid.” 
 
 Mr. Moffat explained to him, through Af- 
 ricaner, that England, from whence the mis- 
 sionaries came to teach them the gospel of 
 Jesus Christ, was at a great distance; that it 
 was seventeen times farther than Namaqua- 
 land was from the Cape. Africaner began 
 by pointing to his fingers, one after another, 
 saying, “ Once to Namaqualand and back to 
 the Cape,” till he pointed to his fingers the 
 seventeenth time. Immediately the Damara 
 leaned backward, turning up his eyes and 
 hands towards heaven, saying, “ All too deep 
 for me; I cannot understand it!” When we 
 told him that Mrs. Philip had left two chil- 
 dren behind her in that distant country, for 
 the sake of the poor Africans, the tears started 
 into his eyes, and he wept silently for some 
 time. This may be reckoned as one of the 
 singular occurrences of this singular age of 
 our world, to meet a Christian from a coun- 
 try, the very name of which was unknown 
 to our forefathers. 
 
 No conversation could be held with the 
 Bootchuana from the neighbourhood of Lat- 
 takoo, as he could speak neither the Damara 
 language, nor Namaqua, nor Dutch, nor the 
 Hottentot; yet he seemed pleased and hap- 
 py, and employed himself in examining every 
 thing in the room. He stood a long time 
 
92 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 looking at an engraving of the city of Glas- 
 gow. He wondered at the bridges and car- 
 riages which appeared in the view. When 
 he turned his eyes to a painting of Charles 
 Fox, his only remark was, “That is a man.” 
 When the Damara looked into a glass, and 
 observed his own beard, which was the only 
 beard present, he made signs that he should 
 like to have it cut off. These strangers kept 
 always close to Mr. Moffat: when he moved, 
 they moved; and when he stopped, they 
 stopped. 
 
 Our examinations of Africaner, as to his 
 knowledge and experience of the power of 
 gospel truth, which were most satisfactory, 
 having been inserted in a brief life of him, 
 published by the Religious Tract Society, it 
 is unnecessary to notice them here. 
 
 April 17. The execution of a white man 
 is a rare occurrence at Cape Town. One, 
 however, was hung to day, on a gallows 
 erected on an open space at the foot of Lion- 
 rump Hill. He had murdered a field-cornet, 
 a kind of justice of peace, who had appeared 
 as a witness against him in some process that 
 he had before a court, which determined him 
 to take his revenge upon him the first oppor- 
 tunity that offered. The murderer was a 
 farmer in the district of Tulbach. The field- 
 cornet having called upon him to settle some 
 business, sat down in his principal room; 
 the farmer went into another room, which 
 was dark, took his fowling piece and shot 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 93 
 
 him while sitting in the chair; and, while in 
 his fury, would have shot his own wife also, 
 but, by concealing herself, she escaped. Only 
 a child was present when the deed was per- 
 petrated: all that the poor man was able to 
 say before he expired was, “Child, you are 
 witness your father has shot me!” 
 
 The murderer was tried by the court of 
 justice a few days ago, but according to the 
 Dutch form of proceeding, no decision was 
 come to in the presence of the prisoner: he 
 was sent back to prison, there to remain till 
 he should be sent for, to hear the decision the 
 judges might come to. For this purpose he 
 was brought into the court this morning, 
 when sentence of death was passed upon 
 him, and he was ordered to be immediately 
 carried to the place of execution, and put to 
 death by hanging. 
 
 The man entered the court at nine o’clock, 
 and at half-past nine he was on his way to 
 the gallows, guarded by the fiscal officers, 
 and about thirty soldiers. The procession 
 walked for about a mile along the streets to 
 the place of execution, which was a little be- 
 yond the extremity of the town in that direc- 
 tion. The unhappy man was dressed in a 
 short blue jacket, corduroy trousers, and a 
 white nightcap; he had a long black beard, 
 and a grim countenance; his arms were fast 
 bound by the elbows and wrists; he walked 
 with a bold yet sedate gait, apparently not 
 the least affected by the dreadfulness of his 
 9 
 
94 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 situation, or by the many eyes which were 
 directed to him. After arriving at the place 
 of execution, he stood for half an hour, lean- 
 ing his back against a part of the gallows, 
 waiting for the fiscal and clergyman. At 
 length they arrived, in two carriages, drawn 
 by four horses in the former, and two in the 
 latter. On their stepping from their carriages, 
 and entering a tent erected to accommodate 
 them, the poor culprit knelt at a chair which 
 was placed before him, and two leaders, as 
 they are called, or black young men, held 
 him fast by the rope that bound his arms. 
 Mr. Fleck, the minister, then advanced from 
 the fiscal’s tent to the back of the chair, when 
 he offered up a long prayer, while the poor 
 man remained on his knees before him. The 
 very instant the prayer ended, the kaffers all 
 laid hold of the man, and, as if in an amazing 
 hurry to get the life out of him, they dragged 
 him to the ladder which led to the platform 
 on which he was to sutler; some pulled, 
 while others pushed him up the ladder: the 
 rope was put about his neck immediately, 
 and in half a minute the platform fell down, 
 and he was launched into eternity. From 
 the time that the minister pronounced Amen, 
 till the man was hanging on the gallows, I 
 think not more than two minutes could have 
 elapsed. I do not recollect ever witnessing 
 so horrible a transaction. I think these hang- 
 men would have killed a dog or pig with 
 much more gentleness and feeling; in fact, 
 
CAPE TOWN. 
 
 95 
 
 they appeared like men delighted with the 
 work, and anxious to finish as quickly as 
 possible. One of the executioners pressed 
 his foot on the rope which bound the man’s 
 arms, to hasten his death, while he and an- 
 other held his head, I supposed to counteract 
 any convulsions. The spectators behaved 
 with great propriety, and indeed every thing, 
 except the concluding part, was conducted in 
 a very becoming manner. 
 
 I heard that the poor man who was hanged 
 was a confirmed infidel, respecting an here- 
 after. He had lived far from any place of 
 worship, in a desert part of the country, and 
 probably never conversed with a real Chris- 
 tian in his life; in fact, he laboured under 
 greater disadvantages for acquiring religious 
 knowledge than most of the Hottentots in the 
 colony. 
 
96 
 
 PART III. 
 
 JOURNEY TO PACALTSDORP AND BETHELS- 
 DORP. 
 
 April 22 . We completed our business at 
 Cape Town, and procured wagons, oxen, and 
 stores, for our journey to visit the different 
 missionary stations within the colony. As 
 Dr. Philip was not yet sufficiently recovered 
 to bear the fatigue, but there was reason to 
 expect that in two or three days he would be 
 well, it was judged best that I should go for- 
 ward to Stellenbosch, where we had a mis- 
 sionary, Mr. Bakkar, and many friends of 
 the society, and wait there till joined by 
 Dr. Philip. 
 
 This arrangement being settled, I hastened 
 to my lodgings. My wagon soon came to 
 the door, and the Hottentots got my trunks, 
 &c. packed into it, when I took leave of my 
 kind hosts, Mr. and Mrs. Breda. I called at 
 Dr. Philip’s, to have other things packed into 
 the wagon, and afterwards stopped at the 
 houses of several friends to bid them farewell. 
 We cleared the town exactly at six o’clock 
 in the evening; for the evening gun was fired 
 as we were passing the castle, and our jour- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 97 
 
 ney, which was expected to occupy five or 
 six months, commenced. 
 
 Crossing the Salt River, we entered im- 
 mediately on deep sand, and among bushes. 
 We soon found our oxen had become very 
 weak, on account of the scarcity of grass in 
 the vicinity of Cape Town, where they had 
 been halting for a few days. At nine we 
 halted, that our Hottentots might have some 
 refreshment, for they were faint, having ate 
 little during the day, in consequence of the 
 oxen having strayed, and much time having 
 been consumed in collecting them together. 
 This is a hinderance to travellers in Africa, 
 which travellers in Europe never feel: how 
 would such look, if, on coming to the end 
 of a stage in the mail coach, they were told 
 to make themselves comfortable for three 
 or four hours, as it would take at least that 
 time before they could trace out where the 
 horses had strayed to, for some of them must 
 be six or seven miles off in search of some- 
 thing to eat! 
 
 April 23. We intended to have gone for- 
 ward about midnight, but all of us slept till 
 about five in the morning, consequently it 
 was seven a. m. before we were ready to 
 depart from our encampment. We had not 
 gone forward above ten minutes before I 
 was convinced we had, in the dark, got upon 
 the wrong road, and were moving towards 
 Tiger Mountain instead of Stellenbosch. 
 
98 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 Finding the Hottentots entertained the same 
 doubts, we directed our course to a house, at 
 a little distance, to inquire. They told us we 
 were on the Paarl instead of the Stellenbosch 
 road, and after directing us how we might 
 recover the road, they kindly invited us first 
 to take a cup of coffee, which we accepted, 
 with thanks. 
 
 We halted at water at ten, meaning to 
 remain there an hour. About fifty yards 
 from the wagon we killed a serpent five feet 
 long, of a greenish colour mixed with yel- 
 low. After many strokes upon the head, 
 the poor creature continued to hiss, and it 
 must have had at least a hundred blows 
 with the heavy end of a whip handle before 
 it lay quiet; after all, the tail continued to 
 move. At four p. m. an eight horse wagon 
 came up to us, with Captain H. and four 
 other gentlemen in it. They had only left 
 Cape Town about three hours before; of 
 course they smiled when they heard that I 
 had left the evening before. They halted at 
 the water, and we proceeded. They passed 
 us a second time, and politely offered me a 
 place with them to Stellenbosch, which, with 
 pleasure, I accepted, and they put me down 
 about nine p. m. at my good friend, Mr. Kuy- 
 per’s, where I had been comfortably accom- 
 modated for some time during my former 
 visit to Africa, and where I met a most 
 friendly reception. Not one under the roof 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 99 
 
 could speak English; however, with the 
 little Dutch I had, we managed to hold a 
 kind of conversation for an hour and a half. 
 
 April 24. I was sorry to find our venerable 
 missionary, Mr. Bakkar, ill, and confined to 
 his bed; and that Mrs. Bakkar was dead. 
 
 April 25. Sabbath. Mr. Bakkar was so 
 far recovered as to be able to preach to a 
 congregation of slaves, who listened to him 
 with serious attention: about forty were pre- 
 sent. At the close, I addressed a few remarks, 
 through the missionary’s assistance as inter- 
 preter. 
 
 April 27. Being within three days of their 
 winter, people are employed in their gardens, 
 digging, planting, and sowing, exactly as in 
 England in spring: the winter here is the 
 flower season; indeed as few are seen here 
 in summer as in England during winter. 
 
 Stellenbosch is a large and handsome coun- 
 try town, built in the Dutch style; all the 
 houses have whitened carved fronts, and 
 every street is lined with a row of oak trees 
 on each side, which greatly protects both the 
 houses and passengers from the sun’s power- 
 ful heat. Notwithstanding this, few street 
 passengers are to be seen from nine o’clock 
 in the morning till three in the afternoon, 
 which gives the town such a stillness that it 
 appears deserted by its inhabitants. It has a 
 good church, but of small size, and a large 
 house for the residence of the landdrost, or 
 sheriff. All the houses have good gardens 
 
100 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 attached to them; many are of considerable 
 extent. Apricots, peaches, and nectarines 
 grow in such profusion, that hundreds are to 
 be seen under the trees rotting; the fig-trees 
 and the vines bear freely; apples and pears 
 also bear well: but neither cherries, goose- 
 berries, nor currants will grow, being fruit 
 belonging to colder climes. 
 
 May 1. Dr. Philip arrived, quite recovered 
 from his illness. At half past six, the month- 
 ly prayer meeting for the spread of the gos- 
 pel was held in the mission chapel, at which 
 Mr. Evans from Bethelsdorp gave an ad- 
 dress, and Messrs. Bakkar and Moffat en- 
 gaged in prayer. 
 
 May 4. Having finished all the business 
 connected with the mission at Stellenbosch, 
 we departed for Paarl, about five p. m. The 
 evening was serene and pleasantly cool. 
 About half past nine, we came to a pool of 
 water, two miles from Paarl, where we halt- 
 ed, or outspanned, for the night. Our com- 
 pany, which collected in the tent for evening 
 worship, was a singular mixture of nations, 
 namely English, Scotch, Welsh, American, 
 Hottentot, Namaqua, Damara, Bootchuana, 
 and Bushman; persons from nine nations, 
 all professedly uniting in the worship of one 
 God. 
 
 May 5. Breakfasted at the lovely town of 
 Paarl, or Pearl; so called from an immense 
 rock, which forms the summit of a high hill 
 immediately behind the town, which in shape 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 1 01 
 
 was thought to resemble a pearl, hence it 
 was called Pearl Mountain, and the town 
 afterwards built at the base of it called Paarl, 
 or Pearl. The town itself is beautiful, being 
 composed of a square of buildings, with a 
 wide street leading from it at both ends; and 
 the position of it is equally so, looking down 
 to a long and wide valley, bounded by an 
 extensive range of stupendous mountains, 
 covered on the summit, as far as the eye 
 could reach, with mighty rocks in all con- 
 ceivable shapes, as ruined cathedrals, domes, 
 steeples, and turrets. This range a traveller 
 once called the backbone of the world. One 
 cannot view such grand works of the Creator 
 without being astonished at the wisdom and 
 power by which they were produced. When 
 observing the delightful streams which such 
 mountains send down to beautify and ferti- 
 lize the valleys, we are forced to say, “ 0 
 Lord, how great is thy goodness!” 
 
 I was pleased to find that, since I was for- 
 merly in Paarl, the people had erected a neat 
 building, capable of containing two hundred 
 and fifty persons, where meetings might be 
 held for the instruction of the slave popula- 
 tion. The friends were very anxious that a 
 missionary might be settled among them, 
 who would devote his labours entirely to the 
 slaves in Paarl, and the region round about; 
 when they had no doubt of their being able, 
 not only to support the missionary, but also 
 to contribute something to the general fund 
 10 
 
102 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 of the Missionary Society. We promised to 
 attend to their case. 
 
 In the evening, at half past six, the slave 
 chapel was crowded with people of all co- 
 lours. Mr. Evans gave an address, in the 
 Dutch language; and then Mr. Moffat put a 
 few questions, first to Africaner and then to 
 the Damara, concerning their faith, which 
 they answered with great modesty. They 
 were listened to with deep interest; indeed, 
 every eye was fixed on these two men, while 
 they confessed their faith in the great doc- 
 trines of the gospel. They appeared not 
 only interested, but powerfully affected by 
 the scene before them. It was truly new to 
 us, and will be long remembered. 
 
 May 6. After taking leave of friends, we 
 left Pearl at nine a. m., and for the first three 
 or four miles we travelled in the middle of 
 wine farms, and farm houses on each side of 
 the road, which had the appearance of a 
 scattered village. 
 
 At one p. m. we came to a river, on the 
 bank of which, near the ford, stood a farm 
 house, almost hidden by the trees which sur- 
 rounded it. Under the shade of one of these, 
 we pitched our tent. I had some conversa- 
 tion with one of the farmer’s sons, a fine 
 looking little fellow of nine or ten years of 
 age; I found that he could read, and that 
 there was a school about two miles distant. 
 He entered our tent while we were at din- 
 ner, and viewed us and the meal before us 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 103 
 
 with the same ease as if no person had been 
 present. Mr. T. presented him with two 
 penny pieces, which he received with as little 
 ceremony as a toll-bar man receives his toll 
 money in England. In a minute he brought 
 to us a younger brother, and placed him be- 
 fore us, when both looked in our faces in a 
 very significant manner. We could not mis- 
 understand their meaning, therefore we gave 
 the younger boy a penny piece, when they 
 immediately retired. 
 
 At five p. m. we crossed the river and went 
 forward, having the row of interesting moun- 
 tains near us on the right, and were sorry it 
 was dark when we entered Wagonmaker’s 
 Valley, the fertility of its vineyards being 
 much spoken of at the Cape, but the shades 
 of night concealed it from our view. At 
 eleven, we halted for the night among bush- 
 es, and after midnight went to sleep in our 
 wagons, leaving the tent to be occupied by 
 the natives, which pleased them, as the rain 
 fell fast. 
 
 We found ourselves in the morning at the 
 end of the kloof, or narrow pass across the 
 chain of mountains to Tulbach. After set- 
 ting out, we met a farmer and his wagons, 
 who had come from the vicinity of Graff 
 Reynet; he had been a month on the road. 
 He told us that he had left two sheep behind, 
 a little way off, which he gave us a right to 
 take to ourselves, if we could find them out; 
 our Hottentots soon traced them, and brought 
 
104 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 them to the wagons. We arrived at Rode- 
 zand about seven p. m. 
 
 May 9. Sabbath. Mr. Kicherer, the pa- 
 rish minister, who had been one of the So- 
 ciety’s missionaries, being from home, the 
 schoolmaster read a commentary on Pha- 
 raoh’s dream. Notice was then given of 
 sermons, to be delivered in English and 
 Dutch, at the slave meeting in the evening, 
 where Dr. Philip preached; and Mr. Yos, 
 late minister of Caledon, repeated the sub- 
 stance of the discourse in Dutch; after which 
 I gave an address in reference to what was 
 going on in the Christian part of the world, 
 which Mr. Yos also interpreted to the peo- 
 ple. 
 
 May 10. After having had meetings with 
 the directors of the Tulbach and Rodezand 
 Missionary Society, and Mr. Ariel Yos our 
 missionary, and taking leave of Africaner, 
 who went no further our way, we left Rode- 
 zand, and the kind friends there, at four p. m., 
 in Mr. De Lang’s six-horse wagon, to make 
 up to our own wagons, which had set off an 
 hour before us; this we soon effected. 
 
 We intended to have visited Gnadenthal, 
 the principal Moravian station in the colony; 
 but finding, upon inquiry, that it was three 
 days’ journey out of our way, we proceeded 
 direct to Zwellendam, and travelled, with 
 high mountains on both sides of us, until 
 almost midnight, getting comfortably across 
 the five streams, which when united form the 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 105 
 
 Brede, or Broad River. The night felt cold, 
 and the wind blew with great violence. 
 
 May 11. So violently did the wind con- 
 tinue to blow during the night, and it so 
 shook our wagons, as to prevent some of the 
 party from sleeping. The spare oxen not 
 having come up, prevented our moving from 
 our encampment till past three p. m., and 
 some oxen had become so feeble, that they 
 lay down, unable to proceed: these we com- 
 mitted to the care of a farmer till we should 
 return. The wind blowing so strong from 
 the s. e. retarded our progress, the oxen 
 having to drag the wagons in opposition to 
 it. The road was excellent, and became 
 gradually descending; some parts of it were 
 sand, but the greater part composed of hard 
 clay and gravel. We halted at half past one 
 in the morning, on the further side of the 
 Hex River. It is a necessary precaution, 
 always to cross a river immediately on arri- 
 ving, if it be fordable: the neglect has often 
 detained travellers for days on the side of 
 rivers; for sometimes, in consequence of falls 
 of rain at a distance, rivers in an hour will 
 swell to double their ordinary size. 
 
 May 12. In the morning, Mr. De Toit, a 
 respectable farmer, whose house was about 
 a mile distant, came and kindly presented 
 us with various articles for supplying our 
 table. 
 
 This being the day appointed for the an- 
 
106 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 nual meeting of the Missionary Society in 
 London, we held a special meeting in our 
 tent, at two p. m., for prayer, and gave an 
 address to the Hottentots who travelled with 
 us. Mr. De Toit met with us. Mr. Moffat 
 delivered the address, in which he gave some 
 account of the missionary meeting in Lon- 
 don, the distance which many travelled to it, 
 its object, the prayers and contributions made 
 for the heathen, and remarked that they 
 heard of no such meetings among the Caf- 
 fres, or Corannas, or Namaquas, or any other 
 heathen nations, to send teachers to the igno- 
 rant who were far from them; no, it was 
 only in lands where Christ and his gospel 
 were known, that such things were to be 
 found. He likewise told them that it was 
 equally the duty of Christian Hottentots to 
 assist as much as they could, to support 
 instructors among themselves and other na- 
 tions. 
 
 Mr. De Toit sent a slave, with two horses, 
 to bring us to see his family. On reaching 
 the house, which stands near the head of the 
 valley, that forms a crescent composed of the 
 most venerable looking and rugged moun- 
 tains I have hitherto noticed in South Africa, 
 we were received in the most friendly manner 
 by Mr. and Mrs. De Toit, or Toy. When 
 Mr. Moffat had explained the object of our 
 visit to Africa, Mr. De Toit expressed his 
 sincere hope that we might succeed in it. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 107 
 
 The governor had been there lately for five 
 days, on a shooting excursion, and had shot 
 a great deal of game. 
 
 We were all in motion at eight p. m.; but, 
 an hour after, one of the oxen became so 
 lame that we were obliged to unyoke him. 
 The Hottentots judged that his haunch bone 
 was broken, and after much consultation, 
 they thought it would be best to kill him on 
 the spot for food. The condemned animal, 
 as if he had overheard the sentence, began 
 to move forward, and went faster than we 
 supposed it possible for him to have done, 
 so that the execution of his sentence was put 
 off till we should consult a farmer, whose 
 house was not far off. On reaching Mr. 
 Yrez’s, after examination, he thought it was 
 a dislocation, not a fracture or break. We 
 left the ox till it should recover, when it 
 would be sent for by our missionary at Cale- 
 don institution. 
 
 Mr Moffat, having rode on before us, had 
 highly gratified a farmer and his family, who 
 appeared to be pious people, with relating 
 the extensive operations of the Missionary 
 Society over the world. The farmer remark- 
 ed that the English were a wonderful nation; 
 for whenever he heard of them, he always 
 heard of their doing something for the good 
 of mankind. 
 
 About four o’clock in the morning, a large 
 iron bolt, which bound Dr. P.’s wagon to- 
 gether in the front, snapped in two, which 
 
108 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 detained us about half an hour, till a tempo- 
 rary wooden one was made and put in. We 
 had not proceeded far, when the iron pin 
 broke, which fixed the hook at the end of 
 the dissel boom, or shaft, of my wagon, to 
 which the whole yoke of oxen are fixed, 
 and by it drag the wagon; of course when it 
 gave way, the twelve oxen that dragged the 
 wagon were immediately separated from it, 
 and ran off in a mass.* It was well this hap- 
 pened where it did, while we were on level 
 ground, instead of a deep declivity; for then 
 the wagon must have been overturned, and 
 much damaged. Having succeeded in again 
 fixing the hook to the shaft, and the oxen to 
 the hook, we went forward till we reached 
 the outspan, or halting place, at five in the 
 morning, where we went to sleep at break of 
 day, after admiring for some time the glory 
 of the morning star. 
 
 May 13. While at breakfast, a farmer 
 from the neighbourhood came, with a pleas- 
 ing request, that one of our company would 
 come to his house, and preach to his family 
 and slaves. Mr. Evans went. Though win- 
 ter, the thermometer, at noon, was 70. 
 
 We recommenced our journey at three 
 p. m., but about ten at night, we found we 
 had left the road, and got entangled among 
 muddy streams of water, which detained us 
 
 * These little occurrences are noticed in the beginning 
 of the journey, merely to assist readers in forming a cor- 
 rect idea of the nature of African travelling. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 109 
 
 some time before we could regain the track. 
 At eleven, an ox sunk so deep into mire, 
 that by every exertion we could not extri- 
 cate him, which obliged us to halt for the re- 
 turn of day. 
 
 May 14. Having extricated the ox, and 
 taken breakfast we departed at ten; but, in 
 an hour, the heat became too oppressive for 
 the oxen, (thermometer 74,) wherefore we 
 halted, amidst mimosa trees, till the heat of 
 the day should pass over. Though the mid- 
 dle of this month (May) in this hemisphere 
 is the same season as the middle of Novem- 
 ber in Europe, yet we observed the swallows 
 flying about the same as in summer. In the 
 afternoon, while my wagon was descending 
 a steep hill at Kochman’s Kloof, the chain 
 which locked the wheel broke, in conse- 
 quence of which the wagon rushed down 
 with great rapidity; but the oxen, through 
 the good management of the Hottentots, be- 
 ing kept running with equal swiftness, hap- 
 pily all came safe to the bottom. It was 
 well that my wagon was the foremost, for 
 had it been behind any of them, the road 
 being narrow, it must have dashed against 
 them, and caused great damage. We con- 
 tinued from five o’clock in the evening till 
 half past six next morning, when we came 
 to water, and halted. 
 
 May 15. I observed that the Hottentots 
 always preferred sleeping round a fire in the 
 
110 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 open air, when it did not rain, to being in 
 our tent, which was always at their service 
 in the night time. When I inquired their 
 reason for so doing, they said the ground 
 round the fire was always more dry than 
 that in the tent. To remedy this, I advised 
 them to make a great fire on a spot of 
 ground, which would soon make it perfectly 
 dry ; they then could clear away the fire, and 
 remove the tent to that spot. 
 
 Our Bootchuana was sitting in the circle 
 of Hottentots, none of whom understand his 
 language; he made us to understand he was 
 sleepy, by closing his eyes and snoring a 
 little; he then made use of a Hottentot’s 
 head, who was asleep beside him, as a pil- 
 low. The Hottentot awaking, in conse- 
 quence of feeling the weight, pushed away 
 the Bootchuana’s head, who immediately 
 laid his head upon the ground, making a 
 sign to the Hottentot that he might use it for 
 a pillow, which he readily did; and both 
 were fast asleep in a few minutes. 
 
 Went forward about noon, and arrived at 
 Zwellendam, the seat of a landdrost, about 
 three o’clock. We dined at Mr. K.’s, sur- 
 geon to the district, after which we rode to 
 take a view of a wonderful hollow in the 
 side of a mountain a little way off. As we 
 approached it, our surprise increased. The 
 wide excavation extended about half a mile 
 into the heart of the mountain; the cliffs 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHEESDORP. Ill 
 
 on each side were of surprising height, and 
 became more lofty as they approached the 
 centre of the hill ; but the head of the cut 
 surpassed all, being a solid perpendicular 
 cliff of about three thousand feet high. In 
 the bottom of this cut ran a stream of pure 
 water, pushing its way through innumerable 
 loose rocks which lay in its way. Where the 
 passage happened to be completely choked 
 up by the rocks, small water-falls were form- 
 ed, which added greatly to the beauty of the 
 enchanting scenery. Evergreens of various 
 kinds grew from the bottom and sides of the 
 excavation. Wherever we found an open- 
 ing among the trees, by which we could get 
 a peep of the terminating cliff, we viewed it 
 with increasing astonishment the nearer we 
 approachedi 
 
 The greatest works of men sunk into insig- 
 nificance when thought of in presence of this 
 work of God. The Egyptian pyramids would 
 have looked like mere pebbles, had they been 
 placed by the side of this Divine erection. 
 Had this work been effected by some ancient 
 emperor, its fame would have reached all 
 civilized nations, but being a work of God 
 it is lightly esteemed; for though it is only 
 three miles from Zwellendam, I never heard 
 a whisper of it when there before. Sorry 
 were we to be obliged to leave this interest- 
 ing spot before we could reach the end of it; 
 for the approach of night chased us away. A 
 
112 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 neat farm house and garden stand beautifully 
 near the entrance; and another, with a mill, 
 at no great distance. 
 
 May 16. The thermometer, at noon, was 
 82, and not a breath of wind moving. There 
 was no service in the parish church, the min- 
 ister being absent, preaching on the other side 
 of the mountains. At eleven, our people as- 
 sembled for worship at the tent. 
 
 Mr. K. on building a new house, turned 
 the old one into a place of worship for slaves 
 and Hottentots, where he regularly preaches 
 to them, and has also taught some of them 
 to read. Mr. E. preached in the evening to 
 a full house of Hottentots, slaves, and whites. 
 The latter sat behind the former two classes, 
 because it was the “heathen meeting;” for 
 the slaves and Hottentots are called “ hea- 
 then,” while all the white people are called 
 “ Christian men.” All seemed to pay deep 
 attention to what was spoken. 
 
 May 17. Mr. K. was early engaged in 
 the revolutionary war. When a surgeon on 
 board a Dutch man-of-war, he was taken 
 prisoner by the English. After being taken 
 to several different places, he was landed at 
 Plymouth, and was sent from thence to Wel- 
 lington on his parole, where he remained 
 five years. Being allowed only five shillings 
 per week by the English government, and 
 this not being sufficient for his support, to 
 make up the deficiency, he wrought for the 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORF. H3 
 
 farmers. He was afterwards permitted to 
 return to Holland, and went to the Hague, 
 where Mr. Kicherer’s parents lived; which 
 led to his going out as a missionary to South 
 Africa, from the Rotterdam Missionary So- 
 ciety, along with Mr. Kicherer, and the 
 three Hottentots he had brought over with 
 him on a visit to Europe. Though both he 
 and his wife laboured in the missionary 
 work, he did not receive enough from the 
 Rotterdam Society to support him, so that 
 he was obliged to resign his connexion with 
 that Society, and commence the practice of 
 surgery, to maintain himself and family. 
 
 May 17. After an agreeable interview with 
 the landdrost about missionary concerns, and 
 taking leave of the friendly Koster family, we 
 left Zvvellendam, which does not seem to be 
 an increasing town, as I did not observe one 
 house added to it since my last visit, six 
 years ago. In five hours, we reached the 
 Missionary Institution of Caledon, formerly 
 called Zuurbrak. The latter part of the 
 stage was performed in the dark, which was 
 on the worst part of the road. During the 
 last two hours of it, we had much thunder 
 and lightning; and soon after our arrival, the 
 rain began to pour down plentifully. 
 
 May 18. During the day we surveyed 
 the settlement, but were sorry to find it in a 
 languishing state, though the ground is good, 
 and a fine river running in the middle of the 
 
1 J 4 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 valley, which is bounded on one side by high 
 mountains. The height of that part of the 
 range immediately opposite the valley, is said 
 to be eight thousand feet, from its requiring 
 double the time to ascend it that Table 
 Mountain, behind Cape Town, requires. Du- 
 ring our halting here, we went to survey an 
 opening in this gigantic mountain, similar to 
 the one we had seen in the vicinity of Zwel- 
 lendam, which was judged to go three miles 
 direct towards the heart of the mountain. 
 We found it impossible to enter by the mouth 
 of the cut, owing to ponderous rocks piled up 
 to a considerable height, and a rapid stream 
 which forced its way through every crevice, 
 the two sides of the excavation almost meet- 
 ing at the top. After ascending the moun- 
 tain to a considerable height, the Hottentots 
 led us down by a narrow path, so steep in 
 some parts that it approached the perpen- 
 dicular; however, it conducted us to the bot- 
 tom of the abyss, which was nearly dark, 
 from its narrowness, the great perpendicular 
 height of the sides, and the evergreen trees 
 which projected from them. We found the 
 bed of the stream covered with loose rocks, 
 some of which were of great size, the wreck 
 of the mountain. Little waterfalls were nu- 
 merous, adding greatly to the novelty and 
 beauty of the scenery: we observed a tribu- 
 tary stream which was poured forth from 
 the north side, or cliff, falling from about 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 115 
 
 forty feet. On entering the excavation, the 
 head or perpendicular wall which formed the 
 termination of it, and must have been four 
 or five thousand feet high, appeared so near, 
 that though it had never been reached be- 
 fore, we had no doubt of being there in an 
 hour. But after scrambling over rocks for 
 more than that time, the end appeared as 
 distant as ever, while the cliffs on each side 
 had increased many hundred feet in height, 
 which induced us often to halt, and survey 
 them with great surprise. No part of the 
 bottom, up which we were gradually as- 
 cending, exceeded fifty feet in breadth, the 
 whole of which was occupied by the river. 
 At length we found, to our great regret, that 
 it would be impossible to reach the head of 
 the defile, consistently with the fulfilment of 
 an engagement we had made with the Hot- 
 tentots at the institution; therefore we had 
 to return by the same way, and encounter 
 the same difficulties as when advancing. 
 
 The oxen being all yoked to our wagons, 
 and all ready to depart, Dr. Philip addressed 
 the people of the settlement who were col- 
 lected around us, warmly recommending to 
 them active industry, attention to the gos- 
 pel, and not to leave the institution. On 
 taking leave of them, we proceeded on our 
 journey to Pacaltsdorp, many of the Hot- 
 tentots following us across the river. On a 
 rising ground a little beyond it, about twenty 
 
116 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 females were standing; as our wagons pass- 
 ed they sang some verses of a hymn. They 
 stood motionless, except their lips, which 
 rendered the scene affecting and impressive, 
 especially when we recollected that very 
 probably some of us would see them no 
 more. 
 
 We travelled along the foot of the Trads 
 range of mountains on the left, with small 
 hills on our right. This valley or glen con- 
 tinued for the first four hours of the journey, 
 till we came to the station of Mr. Messer, 
 who had brought out a party of artisans 
 from Scotland. We called on Mr. Messer as 
 we were passing. It was now dark, and he 
 stated that some parts of the road were rather 
 intricate for night travelling, especially with- 
 out moonlight, and advised us to halt where 
 we were until the morning. We took his 
 advice, and encamped on a rising ground 
 behind his house. During the evening, we 
 obtained some useful information from him. 
 
 May 2S. At eight in the morning, we 
 broke up our camp, and went forward, tra- 
 velling up and down hill till noon, when we 
 arrived at Britt’s Place, or farm, which lies 
 in a very romantic spot, at the head of a 
 valley surrounded by hills except on the east. 
 The hill immediately behind the house rises 
 to a great height, and is ornamented by its 
 rugged top and huge cliffs. Mr. Bakkar 
 came immediately to the wagons, inviting 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. H7 
 
 ns to his house. Dinner was soon ready. 
 His son was on the commando (military ex- 
 pedition) against the Caffres, for whose safe- 
 ty he and Mrs. Bakkar felt a natural solici- 
 tude. They say many farms are left untilled, 
 in consequence of their possessors being call- 
 ed off to defend the boundaries against those 
 savages. 
 
 Some say, that in former times, when the 
 Caffres stole cattle from the colony, the boors 
 in the neighbourhood instantly formed a 
 commando themselves, pursued them, retook 
 the cattle, and took severe revenge upon the 
 Caffres for the crime. I fear that many in 
 nocent Caffres lost their property and their 
 lives upon such occasions, from the difficulty 
 there must have been to distinguish between 
 the innocent and the guilty; so that, proba- 
 bly, motives of mercy have prevailed on the 
 colonial government to alter their policy in 
 this matter. 
 
 At four o’clock, we took leave of Mr. 
 Bakkar, receiving from him as many large 
 melons as we had room for in the wagon. 
 A pleasant river runs in front of his house, 
 which after great rains becomes so formida- 
 ble an obstruction to travelling, that some- 
 times travellers are detained days on its 
 banks before they can cross; indeed one of 
 our company was once detained eleven days 
 before it became fordable. How insensible 
 we are to the value of bridges and good 
 roads! Travelling chiefly over low hills, at 
 11 
 
118 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 half past ten f. m. we arrived at Lombart’s 
 Place. 
 
 May 29 . Rain fell abundantly in the 
 morning. We found only slaves and Hot- 
 tentots in the farm house, who permitted us 
 to make use of the front room. The ab- 
 sence of the family was caused by a very 
 affecting occurrence. Mr. Lombart went 
 lately on a journey to the Cape: on his re- 
 turn, when only a few days’ journey from 
 home, he was taken suddenly ill, and died. 
 The widow and friends were now absent to 
 attend his funeral, which was to take place 
 on this very day. From their being no trees 
 or bushes near the house, the wetness of the 
 weather, the absence of the family, and the 
 cause of that absence, every thing appeared 
 to wear a gloomy aspect. There did not 
 appear much dejection among the slaves, 
 though the death of their master may make 
 a great alteration in their circumstances, as 
 they may be sold to different purchasers, in 
 different parts of the country, and thus be 
 dispersed so as never to see each other again. 
 
 We left Lombart’s Place at five p. >r., 
 crossed two considerable rivers, but happily, 
 not much swelled by the rains. About three 
 o’clock in the morning, we came to a steep, 
 rocky, and slippery descent in the road, 
 which cost about an hour’s labour to get the 
 wagons safely down, one after another. We 
 continued moving forward till about six 
 a. m., when we halted at water, and were so 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 119 
 
 tired, that all went to sleep without tasting 
 any food. 
 
 May 30. We spent our Sabbath at this 
 solitary place, where there are neither houses, 
 nor people, nor trees. We were very desi- 
 rous to reach a kraal of Hottentots; but 
 though we had travelled thirteen hours the 
 preceding night, we found, upon calculating, 
 that we could not reach it before the even- 
 ing. 
 
 May 31. Set off at eight p. m., crossed 
 the Gaurits River at one, which though 
 sometimes a formidable river, was now what 
 the boors call empty, or not deep. There 
 being no grass near the Gaurits, we con- 
 tinued travelling till two o’clock, when we 
 halted at a small stream where there was 
 grass for the oxen. We were there joined 
 by two fat oxen, which had strayed from the 
 people who were bringing for us a supply of 
 oxen from Pacaltsdorp to Caledon. These 
 two oxen had remained feeding in the neigh- 
 bourhood till they heard the lowing of their 
 old companions, when they joined them, and 
 actually strove to be yoked along with them, 
 in the same position in which they had been 
 accustomed to draw. We supposed them to 
 have been the third pair of oxen, from the 
 wagon; for they strove to be reinstated in 
 that position. 
 
 June 1. We were surprised in the morn- 
 ing to find our wagons covered with hoar 
 frost, and the water with a thin surface of 
 
120 
 
 JOURNEY TO 
 
 ice. Departed at nine a.ji., passed a boor’s 
 where they were skinning a tiger wolf,* 
 
 which they had just shot. The amazing 
 strength of its neck struck us all. We came 
 to a small river of clear water, at which we 
 designed to halt; but finding the water was 
 brak, or saltish, we went forward till we 
 came to better. Such boors as are accus- 
 tomed to brak water actually prefer it to 
 sweet, or what we call good water. 
 
 Crossed the Little Brak River at ten p. m., 
 and soon after reached the Great Brak River, 
 which being only two miles from the ocean, 
 can only be crossed at low water, owing to 
 the tide. Judging it to be full, we did not 
 attempt to cross, but resolved to wait till the 
 tide retired. The Hottentots by turns were 
 
 Hycena crocuta. The spotted hyaena of Pennant. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 121 
 
 to watch the river during the night, and 
 when it should become low, they were to 
 awake the whole party to embrace the op- 
 portunity of getting over. On awaking at 
 day light, we were surprised to hear the Hot- 
 tentots assert that no alteration had taken 
 place in the river during the whole night. 
 
 Dr. Philip and I took a walk to the mouth 
 of the river, to examine the matter. We 
 found it completely choked Avith sand, a 
 high bar being formed across the mouth, as 
 the Hottentots had conjectured, driven up 
 by the waves dashing with great violence 
 against the beach. On returning to the wa- 
 gons, we sent one of our people on horse- 
 back to try the depth of the river. To- 
 wards the opposite side of the river, which 
 was the deepest part, little more than the 
 back-bone of the horse Avas visible above 
 Avater. We then Avenl to work to raise all 
 our trunks and parcels in the Avagons upon 
 the cadels, or frames on which we slept. 
 We got over without injury. The Avater, 
 Avhich Avas salt, came a foot higher than the 
 bottoms of the wagons. We found the rain 
 had made the road so slippery, that it in- 
 creased the difficulty of ascending and de- 
 scending the steep sides of the hills we had 
 to go over; hoAvever, Ave arrived safe at 
 Pacaltsdorp as twilight Avas dying away. 
 
122 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 Immediately on reaching the town, we 
 were surrounded by Hottentots of all ages, 
 and kindly welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Mes- 
 ser, missionary and wife. 
 
 As soon as daylight appeared, I awoke 
 and went to the front of the wagon, gazing 
 with astonishment at the novel scene by 
 which I was surrounded. When I was here 
 before, the place consisted of a few miserable 
 huts, without a planted tree or bush, or a sin- 
 gle acre of cultivated land. When Dikkop, 
 the chief, was taking me to his kraal, or 
 town, I noticed nothing like town or village, 
 when only about a quarter of a mile from it; 
 the inhabitants were filthy, and nearly the 
 whole clothed in tattered sheep-skins. They 
 wanted me to send them a missionary; the 
 only reason they could assign for wishing a 
 missionary to come among them was, that 
 they wished to be taught the same things 
 that white people were taught, but what it 
 was they knew not. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 123 
 
 On looking round about from my wagon, 
 I beheld a wall, six feet high, surrounding 
 the whole settlement, enclosing gardens, a 
 square house in each garden; excellent horse, 
 oxen, and sheep kraals, or large square en- 
 closures of walls six feet in height, and a 
 gate on each, for preserving their cattle in 
 safety during the night; artificial ponds of 
 water and wells; a church capable of con- 
 taining two hundred people, which is also, 
 on week days, used as a school house. All 
 this, effected by a single missionary, in the 
 short space of six years, and among a peo- 
 ple unaccustomed to exertion or hard labour, 
 is truly surprising. Mr. Pacalt, the mission- 
 ary who effected this, died some months be- 
 fore our arrival. 
 
 After breakfast, we rode over to the town 
 of George, about three miles distant, to pay 
 our respects to Mr. Vankervel,the landdrost. 
 The alteration on that town since I had been 
 there appeared nearly as remarkable as that 
 of Pacaltsdorp. There were then only three 
 or four houses; but now, a long street of 
 houses, not closely built together, reaching 
 from the entrance to the drosdy house, which 
 stands facing the street at the other end, and 
 several buildings, forming the commence- 
 ment of another street to the right, in which 
 stands the parish church. We were politely 
 received by the landdrost and other officers. 
 We returned in the evening to Pacaltsdorp. 
 
 I addressed the people at the evening 
 
124 pacaltsdorp and betiielsdorp. 
 
 meeting for worship; reminding them of 
 their poverty and ignorance when I for- 
 merly visited them, and how glad I was to 
 see them now in the possession of the Scrip- 
 tures, and many able to read them; and that 
 they had a Christian teacher, a school, gar- 
 dens, fields, and these fenced with substantial 
 walls; many strangers visiting them, highly 
 gratified to see the change that had taken 
 place. I noticed how greatly God had dis- 
 tinguished them above their forefathers, who 
 never had the gospel; but, under his direc- 
 tion, it had come to them both in word and 
 power. I addressed also the young people. 
 
 The natural grass of the settlement is what 
 is called sour grass. In consequence of feed- 
 ing on it, two of our oxen had died. Some 
 of the gentlemen at the landdrost’s table, as 
 also the landdrost himself, asserted that if the 
 ground were ploughed two or three times, 
 and well manured, sweet grass would come 
 instead of the sour, and continue sweet ever 
 after; that, wherever a kraal has settled some 
 time upon a spot, the ground produces sweet 
 grass instead of sour. 
 
 It was delightful, on the sabbath, to see 
 how decently dressed the Hottentots came to 
 worship: the females, in white and coloured 
 cotton cloth; the men, in blue jackets, some 
 in leather trousers; others in cotton, and some 
 in woollen trousers; all carrying their Bibles 
 and hymn books under their arms. The 
 alteration was surprising. A sheep skin, 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 125 
 
 with the wool, was the dress before; nor did 
 I then find a printed leaf in the possession 
 of any ; and most of their bodies were covered 
 with dirt. 
 
 June 7. Visited the landdrost; went to 
 view his country house, about three miles 
 from George, charmingly situated on a rising 
 ground, commanding a very extensive view 
 of the surrounding country. Immediately 
 behind the house, is an extensive forest of 
 ancient trees, many of which appear to be 
 from thirty to forty feet in circumference; 
 some of them, at fifty feet above the root, 
 were probably from twelve to fifteen feet in 
 circumference, where the branches com- 
 menced. We walked for some time in a nar- 
 row path in this road; few sights could be 
 more interesting. The stink tree and the 
 iron tree were the most abundant; their 
 amazing age made them peculiarly interest- 
 ing. Mr. Vankervel had obtained a grant 
 of two hundred acres of land there, and a 
 great part of the wood, which, were it in 
 Europe, and near the sea, would be as a mine 
 of gold. 
 
 June 8. A number of Hottentot men, 
 women, and children, were employed the 
 whole day in building the range of wall in 
 front of their gardens, to protect them from 
 all annoyance from the street. It was of the 
 same dimensions as the outer wall which 
 surrounds the whole settlement; namely, six 
 feet in height, four feet wide at bottom, and 
 12 
 
126 pacaltsdorp and BETHELSDORP. 
 
 two at top. Six or eight men, with spades, 
 were employed in cutting square thick sods, 
 the shape of large bricks; others forming the 
 wall with them; all the rest were carriers. 
 The whole performed the work with activity 
 and cheerfulness. 
 
 This method of labouring in union in- 
 creases their comfort, and promotes indus- 
 trious habits. After finishing a day’s work, 
 I have been amused by witnessing the great 
 pleasure they seemed to have, when standing 
 at a little distance, viewing what they had 
 done, and making their remarks upon it, and 
 all clapping their hands in token of their ap- 
 probation. Then the seniors, first moving 
 gently away to their various homes, satisfied 
 with what they had effected, while the young- 
 er part lingered playfully till darkness also 
 drove them to their habitations, when the 
 whole group would soon feel that rest is 
 sweet to labourers. 
 
 Sixty-four persons in the settlement could 
 then read; seventy children regularly at- 
 tended the school, taught by a Hottentot lad; 
 and six boys and seven girls were learning 
 to write and cipher. 
 
 Left Pacaltsdorp, June 9, at six p. m. Many 
 Hottentots followed us to George, singing 
 hymns now and then all the way. At eight 
 p. m., we came to a river at the foot of Cra- 
 dock Mountain, where we halted for the 
 night. The place was surrounded with trees, 
 whose leaves fade. The part of the moun- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 127 
 
 tain beyond the wood was on fire, or more 
 accurately, the brush-wood on it was burn- 
 ing, which, viewed through a small opening 
 in the forest, had a fine effect. 
 
 A Hottentot widow, with her wagon, was 
 returning along with us toBethelsdorp. When 
 on her way with her husband, about a fort- 
 night before, having got over Cradock Moun- 
 tain without any accident, her poor husband 
 happened to fall before one of the wagon 
 wheels, which went over him and hurt him 
 so that he soon died; on which she returned 
 to Pacaltsdorp, to wait till she could return 
 in company with some other wagons. About 
 six Hottentot females are accompanying her 
 from Pacaltsdorp, till they shall see her safe 
 over Cradock Mountain, when they will re- 
 turn with the oxen which the people have 
 kindly lent us to drag our wagons across the 
 mountain, consisting of seventy-two oxen, 
 under the charge of six men. 
 
 At eight in the morning, every thing being 
 ready, we began to ascend the Cradock Moun- 
 tain. The road over this part of the moun- 
 tain chain has been made since my former 
 journey. I then crossed it about twenty 
 miles further on, or to the eastward, over a 
 place called the Duivil’s Kap, or Devil’s 
 Head. This is thought a better pass, though 
 steep and rugged; because in the other pass 
 two mountains are to be crossed, here there 
 is only one, and the Devil’s Head is many 
 hundred feet higher than the highest part 
 
128 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 crossed here. In five hours, with little dam- 
 age, all arrived safe at the bottom on the 
 other side of the mountain. Few Europeans, 
 on beholding the steepness and great height 
 of the mountain, would have judged it prac- 
 ticable to have dragged heavily laden wagons 
 over it ; but it is surprising what perseverance 
 will effect, what apparent difficulties may 
 be surmounted. No impediment whatever 
 should be pronounced impracticable without 
 a fair and resolute trial , expecting to over- 
 come it. The apostle Paul speaks of for- 
 getting the things that are behind, and pres- 
 sing onward to the things that are before, till 
 he should obtain the desired prize : this is 
 the duty of every Christian, but far above all 
 in the things that concern his soul. 
 
 On reaching the summit, we paused to look 
 round about us from our elevated position. 
 The extent of country and ocean included in 
 the prospect was great; but nearly the whole 
 of the land that was visible, was wild uncul- 
 tivated waste. The ascent occupied four 
 hours, but we descended in one. When our 
 kind Hottentot friends had dined, and al- 
 lowed their oxen a little time to graze, they 
 took leave and departed, expecting to reach 
 Pacaltsdorp before midnight. 
 
 On reaching the river where we halted 
 after descending Cradock Mountain, we ex- 
 pected to find all our oxen ready to take us 
 forward, but were disappointed to find that, 
 during the night, the Hottentot and Bootchu- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 129 
 
 ana, whose duty it was to watch them, had 
 both fallen asleep, when thirteen of the oxen, 
 seizing the opportunity thus given them, set 
 off on their return to Pacaltsdorp and the 
 rest went off in the opposite direction, on the 
 road towards Bethelsdorp,fronr whence they 
 had come. On the sleepers awaking, and 
 missing all the oxen, they discovered, by their 
 foot marks, that they were gone in two op- 
 posite directions. The Hottentot pursued the 
 Pacaltsdorp ones, and the Bootchuana the 
 others. We met the Hottentot on the moun- 
 tain, and gave him again the thirteen oxen, 
 which we had picked up on the road, to drive 
 forward to the place where we were to span 
 out, or halt, and where we should expect to 
 find him on our arrival; but, on our arrival, 
 we found neither the men nor the oxen. We 
 then dispatched a Hottentot, on horseback, 
 to proceed forward in search of them, who 
 found them ten miles in advance of us. We 
 waited till the evening, expecting them every 
 minute, so that we were obliged to remain 
 where we were during the night. 
 
 The only persons we met while crossing 
 the mountain were three solitary blacks, who 
 seemed to be slaves, stationed there to keep 
 the road in repair. They were as miserable 
 looking human beings as could be conceived: 
 not a smile seemed ever to have been on any 
 of their countenances; indeed, they hardly 
 noticed us as we were passing them. 
 
 June 11. At daylight there was no intel- 
 
130 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 ligence respecting our oxen; but, by and by, 
 the Bootchuana arrived with part of them, 
 but not a sufficient number to drag our wa- 
 gons; and, none of us being acquainted with 
 the Bootchuana language, the poor fellow 
 was unable to inform us of the state of things. 
 Mr. Evans then set off, on horseback, in 
 search of them, but returned without having 
 seen or heard any thing concerning them; 
 however a farmer had promised to send us a 
 few oxen, to assist in removing us out of the 
 solitary wilderness in which we were fixed. 
 
 Four oxen arriving from the farmer, we 
 were enabled to proceed on our journey. At 
 half-past four p. m., we halted at Vanroy’s, 
 who had sent the oxen, and who received us 
 in a friendly way. Not finding our own 
 oxen here, Mr. Vanroy permitted us to take 
 forward his four oxen to the next boor’s 
 place, Mr. Camver’s; but, on reaching it, we 
 were sorry to learn that our oxen not only 
 were not there, but they had not seen them 
 pass that way, which made us suspect that 
 the Hottentot, who had the care of them, 
 was taking revenge upon us for having re- 
 proved him for allowing the oxen to stray 
 over Cradock Mountain. 
 
 Mr. Camver received us kindly. He asked 
 me if I had not travelled that way six years 
 before, which I had done. As is their cus- 
 tom, he gave us no invitation to supper, 
 though he expected us. I had no intention 
 of returning to his house from the wagon; 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 131 
 
 but one of our Hottentots assured us we 
 were expected; “for the fire in the kitchen,” 
 said he, “is covered with pots.” We went 
 over, and, seeing a long table covered, we 
 were convinced the Hottentot was right in 
 his conjecture. Before and after supper, the 
 youngest daughter repeated a grace in the 
 Dutch language, from behind the chair which 
 stood at the head of the table, in which her 
 mother sat. The father and aunt sat on each 
 side of her; six daughters and two sons were 
 also at the table. Most of the females were 
 married, but their husbands were absent on 
 the commando against the Caffres; and one 
 son was along with the field-cornet, search- 
 ing the district for Caffres, in consequence of 
 their having been seen on the Krome River. 
 
 June 12. At break of day we sent off 
 Dantjie, a Hottentot, on horseback, in pur- 
 suit of Windfogel and our oxen. The Boot- 
 chuana pointed to the road, about four or 
 five miles before, where it crosses a river. 
 He made us, by signs, to understand, that, 
 two days ago, he parted from Windfogel 
 there, to bring to us part of the cattle. 
 
 The road in the Lang Kloof, or valley, 
 which commenced at the foot of Cradock, 
 has been excellent, quite level, so that our 
 lean oxen trotted along at the rate of four, or 
 four and a half miles per hour. The farmer 
 dined with us in our tent: he can drink no- 
 thing but water: indeed, he is the greatest 
 water drinker I ever heard of; I saw him 
 
132 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 drink three pints of water at supper the pre- 
 ceding evening, and he assured us he drank 
 a pailful always during the night. He was 
 fond of our Dutch cheese, and asked liberty 
 to send a small bit of it to his wife, who was 
 as fond of it as himself: we sent her a small 
 cheese, which she well deserved for her hos- 
 pitality to us. We were almost ashamed, by 
 her immediately sending us four or five 
 pounds of excellent butter, with a cow’s 
 tongue boiled and ready for table. When 
 almost departing, we smiled at a message, by 
 a slave, from the youngest daughter, request- 
 ing a piece of sugar: the slave had brought 
 her bonnet to hold it in. 
 
 Dantjie having gone to Windfogel and 
 brought back eleven of the oxen, we were 
 thereby enabled to get the wagons again in 
 motion at four p. m. The post for Uitenha- 
 gen passed us on horseback, carrying a mus- 
 ket, for defence against the Caffres. Some 
 had tried to persuade us not to venture fur- 
 ther up the country, because of these Caffres. 
 We soon passed the road on the right, that 
 comes over the Devil’s Head Mountain, 
 Avhich took me two days to cross on my 
 former journey. I felt some interest in look- 
 ing at the spot where I encamped after tra- 
 versing that troublesome pass. The evening 
 was cold, like November in England: nor 
 was it surprising; for the tops of the moun- 
 tains were covered with snow, it being nearly 
 the middle of winter here. Though we were 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 133 
 
 travelling in a valley at the foot of moun- 
 tains, yet, measured from the sea, we were 
 on high ground. 
 
 At eight p. m. we arrived at the field-cor- 
 net’s place, where we found our lost Hotten- 
 tot, Windfogel; but put oft’ inquiring into his 
 conduct, as the night was cold and dark. 
 Not a creature belonging to the farm ap- 
 proached us, except a numerous band of fu- 
 rious dogs, threatening, like starved wolves, 
 to tear us to pieces. After halting a short 
 time, we proceeded. At ten o’clock the 
 moon arose, which was hailed as a friendly 
 visiter, and it soon dissipated the gloom the 
 rain and darkness had caused. A little after 
 midnight we reached Vanroy’s place, and 
 immediately outspanned. The grass being 
 wet, we found it difficult to kindle a fire; 
 but, after much labour, one of our young 
 Bushmen effected it. This young man, lately 
 a wild Bushman, has been acting for two or 
 three days as our waiter at meals, and has 
 acquired considerable proficiency in the art. 
 Probably he is the first of his nation who ever 
 filled that office; tables, stools, chairs, beds, 
 knives, forks, and plates, being all equally 
 unknown to his people. We were all pleased 
 at having advanced twenty-eight miles since 
 dinner. 
 
 June 13. Sabbath. At our morning wor- 
 ship, none of the boor’s family attended, ex- 
 cept a young son and the schoolmaster. The 
 latter was a private in the twenty-first regi- 
 
134 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 ment of light dragoons when I was formerly 
 in Africa, and was stationed at Graham’s 
 Town when I visited it. He obtained his 
 discharge on account of ill health, when the 
 regiment was ordered to the East Indies, 
 upon condition of his acting as a schoolmas- 
 ter among the families of the farmers of the 
 Lang Kloof for four years. When not teach- 
 ing, he works at his trade of a gunsmith. 
 
 Two boys, of about eleven or twelve years 
 of age, brothers, a few miles from hence, 
 went out this morning, on horseback, to 
 shoot. While riding along, the musket of 
 one boy went off, and shot the other dead. 
 It is said to be a common practice here to 
 permit children to go out shooting; as for 
 doing it on the Lord’s day, it is not consider- 
 ed wrong in the Lang Kloof, where, it is said, 
 that day is generally spent in feasting and 
 dancing. Their condition is truly deplorable: 
 they have no place for public worship, nor 
 any kind of seminary for the instruction of 
 either old or young, and probably few books, 
 and still fewer who have a taste for reading. 
 They are hemmed in by the mighty works 
 of God, their stupendous mountains; but very 
 probably they do not see God in them. 
 Though the visible heavens declare Jeho- 
 vah’s glory, and the firmament his handy 
 works, and though their sound has gone out 
 to all the earth, and their words to the world’s 
 end, yet such is the natural apathy of man, 
 that without some one to make it known, 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 135 
 
 though men have eyes and ears, they per- 
 ceive nothing of God in them. 
 
 In the evening, Mr. Evans, then mission- 
 ary from Bethelsdorp, who travelled with 
 us, preached in the boor’s house, to the fa- 
 mily, slaves, Hottentots, and our people, who 
 altogether made a congregation of about 
 thirty persons. 
 
 The Lang Kloof is a journey of four days 
 with an ox wagon. I understand that it is a 
 rule in the Dutch church, that none are per- 
 mitted either to marry or attend the sacra- 
 ment until they can repeat the catechism, 
 and that, in consequence of this rule, most 
 of the senior inhabitants of even the Lang 
 Kloof, have a general notion of the doctrines 
 of Christianity, but think they stand in need 
 of no more. The families sing a hymn in 
 the morning, and more religion than this 
 they think is not required. Cradock Moun- 
 tain lying between them and their parish 
 church at George, completely excludes them 
 from receiving any instruction there. 
 
 At one o’clock, we began to yoke our 
 oxen to the wagons; but on discovering that 
 four oxen were missing, they were obliged 
 to unyoke and hasten to the hills in search 
 of the strayed ones. Before they were found, 
 and the wagons made ready for departing, it 
 was three p. m. Dr. Philip and I had walk- 
 ed on before, three or four miles, until we 
 came opposite to Barkhouse’s Place, where 
 we waited till the wagons came up. From 
 
136 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 this there is an ascent of half a mile, to what 
 may be called the second division of the 
 Lang Kloof. The oxen being weak, it took 
 nearly an hour before all our wagons reach- 
 ed the summit. 
 
 We travelled along the kloof till about 
 eleven at night, when we halted opposite 
 Martin Sondag’s Place, nearly on the same 
 spot where I stopped a Sabbath six years 
 before. 
 
 June 15. On visiting the farm house, we 
 were surprised to see eight large framed 
 paintings, of persons on horseback, among 
 them, Bonaparte, Moreau, Blucher, Alex- 
 ander, and the King of Prussia. They were 
 painted by a person at George, and cost 
 eight hundred rix dollars. 
 
 Before departing, two lads, sons of a shoe- 
 maker in the vicinity, the elder about seven- 
 teen, and the younger thirteen years of age, 
 stood gazing at us and our wagons with a 
 most vacant stare. The elder could read, 
 the other could not. Neither had been taught 
 any trade, they only tended their father’s 
 cattle. Some of our people had asked the 
 eldest if he would accompany us as a ser- 
 vant on the journey, when he expressed his 
 willingness; on which they brought him to 
 us. We asked if he was really willing to 
 go; with the simplicity of a child of four 
 years, he said, “Yes, if he had clothes.” 
 Being asked if he had travelled far; “ No,” 
 said he, “ I have never been out of the Lang 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 137 
 
 Kloof.” He said he could shoot game. Be- 
 ing also asked if his father would be willing 
 to let him go; he said he was willing, but 
 he was sick. Thinking that we should find 
 it difficult to obtain persons at Bethelsdorp 
 to accompany us to Lattakoo, as many of 
 the Hottentots were employed on the Caffre 
 commando, we were inclined to engage him; 
 likewise hoping that travelling might rouse 
 the dormant powers of his mind, we felt de- 
 sirous to take him with us for his own sake. 
 Two of our party went to his father’s house, 
 to inquire if he was willing to let his son go 
 with us on the journey; but the poor father 
 said he could not spare him, being sick, and 
 his son was needed to take care of his horse 
 and cattle. 
 
 When the sun went down, the burning of 
 grass and bushes on the other side of the 
 mountains, about six or seven miles distant, 
 though we could not see the blaze, so illumi- 
 nated the clouds, that our light from it was 
 as good as a quarter moon. Perhaps the 
 burning of London in 1666, or that of Mos- 
 cow in 1814, did not give more light to the 
 surrounding regions. The scene that we 
 beheld certainly approached to the sublime 
 and beautiful. We continued our journey 
 till near midnight in the enjoyment of this 
 light, and without it we must have been in 
 darkness, exposed to injury from the rough 
 parts of the road. We halted for the night 
 
138 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 at a stream of water, a little beyond Jan- 
 hind’s Place. 
 
 June 16 . Moved at sunrise, and halted 
 at water near A. Ferrara’s place about eight 
 a. m. Mr. Ferrara soon paid us a visit, con- 
 versing freely in our tent for an hour, on the 
 constant topic of the inroads of the Caffres. 
 He has a very extensive farm, sowing annu- 
 ally one hundred muids of wheat, and can 
 let in water over the whole ground. The 
 snow never lies in the kloof, but the higher 
 parts of the mountains are often covered with 
 it. He informed us that the Krome River 
 was dry, that is, passable, and that there is 
 good grass for the oxen all the way to Uiten- 
 hagen, and that no flour can be obtained be- 
 tween his place and there. He asked twen- 
 ty-two rix dollars for the muid of flour; the 
 last we purchased only cost twelve: the muid 
 weighs two hundred pounds. His son was 
 greatly entertained by looking into a kalei- 
 doscope, heartily laughing at every change 
 the turning of it caused. 
 
 At six p. m., when the day was closing, we 
 departed; the fires on the mountains afford- 
 ed sufficient light for travelling. The blaze 
 had proceeded over to our side of the range 
 of hills, burning with great- fury and rapi- 
 dity. Every thing but rock seemed to yield 
 to the devouring element. The illumination 
 was so brilliant that, when ten or twelve 
 miles distant from it, I could easily perceive 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 139 
 
 the hour by my watch. We were favoured 
 by this artificial light, otherwise we must 
 have had great difficulty in groping our way, 
 from the darkness of the night. We were 
 told that this fire of grass and bushes will 
 continue more than a month, should there 
 be no heavy rains. The number of snakes, 
 scorpions, lizards, and other animals that 
 perish in so extensive a conflagration, must 
 exceed all human calculation. Now and 
 then there appeared something resembling 
 volcanic eruptions, which we supposed to 
 be caused by the flame reaching clumps 
 of bushes of a peculiarly inflammable kind, 
 as the turpentine bush, which produces in- 
 stantaneously a large gas-like flame. 
 
 At eight, we passed the place of Stephanus 
 Ferrara, brother to the boor we had last left. 
 He is considered the richest man in the 
 kloof, though his house bore no marks of 
 wealth. We crossed a small but rapidly 
 running river, the bottom of which was 
 strewed over with large stones. Some of 
 our dogs appeared more intimidated by this 
 than any former river we had crossed, which 
 they indicated by their howling and reluc- 
 tance to cross it. Perhaps their fear arose 
 from the great noise made by the river in 
 forcing its way among the rocks, united with 
 the sound made by our wagons dashing over 
 them. At half past ten we took up our resi- 
 dence for the night at Radamere’s Place, 
 where we were still surrounded with light 
 
140 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 proceeding from the burning mountains, 
 though we were now distant fifteen or six- 
 teen miles from the nearest. 
 
 June 17. The morning light discovered 
 the beautiful mountain scenery by which we 
 were surrounded. One of the mountains 
 had a peak, through which there is an open- 
 ing of about half a mile in length. Mr. Rad- 
 amere remarked, that it had the appearance 
 of having been split into two parts by some 
 convulsion in nature, and that a succeeding 
 convulsion had caused the upper part of one 
 side to fall against the other, and thus an 
 opening through the peak was left in the un- 
 der part. Mr. Radamere was of polished 
 manners, and free and open in his conversa- 
 tion. When conversing about the confla- 
 gration of the mountains, which had so 
 cheered and assisted us in travelling during 
 the last few nights, he mentioned an occur- 
 rence which took place upon his own grounds. 
 
 Four slaves were upon the mountain be- 
 longing to his farm. The bushes opposite 
 them had been set fire to, which his slaves, 
 perhaps from ‘having fallen asleep, did not 
 notice till they were so surrounded by the 
 burning bushes that escape was rendered im- 
 possible. But having, providentially, water 
 near the spot on which they stood, they put 
 their sheepskin coverings into it, with which 
 they made every thing around them as wet 
 as they could. The fire burned all the bushes 
 beyond this circle, and a tree under which 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 141 
 
 they were placed, without their suffering any 
 material injury. The instant he perceived 
 their situation, Mr. R. approached as near to 
 them as he could, but could not penetrate the 
 wall of fire that surrounded them, nor could 
 he get near enough to hold any communica- 
 tion with them; the noise proceeding from 
 the crackling of the consuming bushes, as 
 well as the distance, drowned all their voices: 
 of course, his anxiety for some time was ex- 
 treme, till the fury of the fire on that part of 
 the mountain ceased, when, contrary to his 
 expectation, he found his slaves unhurt. 
 Their wet carosses, or sheepskin cloaks, had 
 also preserved them from the falling of the 
 burning branches of the tree under which 
 they were obliged to stand. That water was 
 literally water of life to them. 
 
 Mr. R. has three sons and a son-in-law, 
 all of whom are with the commando against 
 the Caffres; two were obliged to go, the other 
 two went as volunteers. Judging that there 
 must be a great scarcity soon, owing to the 
 great number of farmers who have thus been 
 called away from cultivating the land, Mr. R. 
 is ploughing much more land than he does 
 in ordinary years, and the speculation is 
 likely to be a profitable one. He generally 
 sows forty muids of corn. 
 
 Went forward at three p. m. I walked 
 ahead of the wagons for about five miles, 
 during which time I visited a small party 
 of Hottentots, sitting around a fire among 
 13 
 
142 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 bushes. It consisted of a man, woman, and 
 girl about fifteen years old; they appeared 
 quite at home, smoking contentedly, and the 
 girl mending part of her gown, which was a 
 print; the others wore nothing but sheep- 
 skins. At six, crossed the Greatsinger River, 
 which is the largest in the Lang Kloof; it was 
 wide, and some parts of it deep, where we 
 crossed. The night was dark, and some 
 parts of the road were very rough, made so 
 by the crossing of little streams during rain, 
 causing deep cuts across it. One of our 
 strongest looking oxen fell down from some 
 sudden disease, which detained us about half 
 an hour before we got him on his legs. At 
 eleven we arrived safe at the side of the 
 Krome River, where we took up our abode 
 for the night. Owing to the dampness of the 
 grass, from some drizzling rain that had 
 fallen, it was some time before a fire could be 
 kindled. Here terminated the Lang Kloof, 
 and another commenced, called the Krome 
 River Kloof, which may be considered a con- 
 tinuation of the Lang Kloof. 
 
 In the morning, we found ourselves en- 
 closed by hills, except in the direction of the 
 Krome Kloof, which is a narrow valley, down 
 which we could look for about seven miles, 
 which rendered the spot where we were halt- 
 ing extremely pleasant. Having to cross the 
 river about eight times before we should en- 
 tirely clear it, we were anxious to get for- 
 ward as fast as possible, lest it should sud- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND EETHELSDORP. 143 
 
 denly rise so as to be rendered impassable. 
 We went forward at nine p. jvr.; the road 
 lying along the side of slanting hills, the 
 travelling was somewhat intricate. 
 
 We went to examine a narrow kloof not 
 far from our wagons, which proved more 
 interesting than we expected. It was com- 
 posed of two cliffs, meeting so close at the 
 bottom as only to leave room for a small 
 brook to pass between them; the sides were 
 of rock, in some parts perpendicular, and in 
 others inclining backwards, containing fine 
 projections of rock, from whence the whole 
 beauties of this retired romantic spot could 
 be surveyed; the river murmured unseen at 
 the bottom, except where it tumbled over a 
 cliff twenty or thirty feet in depth. Trees 
 were beautifully interspersed over both sides, 
 which were several hundred feet in height. 
 Some of our people amused themselves by 
 detaching rocks, of several tons weight, from 
 the tops of the cliffs, which fell to the bottom 
 with a tremendous crash. 
 
 A large mass of rotten stumps of trees was 
 collected on the top of the hill, to burn during 
 the night, which they said would frighten 
 away the Caffres from attacking us in the 
 night. In the evening, our Bushman and 
 Bootchuana went up and set fire to it, after 
 which it burned for several hours. 
 
 The Hottentot women who accompany the 
 poor widow whose husband was killed on 
 Cradock Mountain, and who are travelling 
 
144 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 with us for security, have been so fearful of 
 our being attacked by the Caffres, that they 
 are afraid to come near our fires, preferring 
 to sit in the dark behind a bush. Our Boot- 
 chuana, whose language none of our people 
 can speak, has the least concern of any of 
 our party, except two or three children, 
 being entirely ignorant of any war existing 
 between the Caffres and the colony. 
 
 June 19. We proceeded forward at one 
 p. m., passed Hunter’s Bush farm house, the 
 mistress of which was in an unpleasant si- 
 tuation. Her husband and brother were 
 partners in the farm, but both were absent: 
 the latter being on the commando, and the 
 former was called out about a fortnight ago, 
 to assist in a party with the field-cornet in 
 searching for Caffres throughout the district, 
 in consequence of those marauders having 
 carried off the cattle belonging to two farmers 
 in the neighbourhood. Both her friends have 
 written to her that they cannot tell when they 
 shall return; and the poor woman is in con- 
 stant dread of being attacked by parties of 
 Caffres. She has only a few Hottentot ser- 
 vants with her. 
 
 Some parts of the road being steep and 
 rocky, our wagons had some narrow escapes 
 from being dashed to pieces. From the ser- 
 pentine track in which the Krome River 
 runs, we had to cross six times this scroff, or 
 stage. When it is swelled by rains, from the 
 nature of its channel, and the ground through 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 145 
 
 which it passes, it must then be one of the 
 most difficult and dangerous rivers in the 
 colony for wagons to get over. 
 
 The night was highly favourable for our 
 journey; though there was no moon, there 
 was good starlight, frequent flashes of light- 
 ning, and many vivid meteors. My Hotten- 
 tot wagon driver appeared very anxious to 
 halt for the night at the side of the Krome, 
 after we had happily crossed it for the last 
 time. I admired his ingenuity and good 
 sense in the arguments he adduced in support 
 of his advice: the weakness of the oxen, the 
 number of hours they had already been in 
 the yoke, the height of a hill over which the 
 road went a little further on, and that the 
 road inclined so much to one side that the 
 wagons would be in great danger of being 
 overturned. His representations were all 
 correct; but as we wished to spend the 
 Lord’s day near some farm house, we push- 
 ed forward till near ten o’clock, when we 
 halted opposite a farmer’s, after the oxen 
 had been in the yoke almost ten hours; but 
 we were glad to find there was plenty of 
 grass on the ground: indeed the poor things 
 commenced eating it before they were un- 
 yoked. 
 
 We formed our wagons, for the first time, 
 as nearly as we could into a square, placing 
 our tent and fire within the square, and 
 placing, as we had always done, the wagon 
 containing the gunpowder, to windward of 
 
146 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 the fire. The powder was not there for at- 
 tack or defence, but for our support after 
 travelling beyond the frontier of the colon}'’, 
 by shooting game; the square was formed 
 for protection from the CafTres, being con- 
 vinced they had penetrated as far into the 
 colony as where we then were. Though al- 
 most midwinter day here, the thermometer 
 in the shade, at noon, was up to sixty-eight. 
 
 June 20. The day was delightful, the hill 
 scenery around was interesting; but the total 
 absence of trees, and the scarcity of bushes, 
 made the prospect dull. Four white inhabi- 
 tants, men, attended morning worship in the 
 tent. Three of them looked very wild; they 
 were tall and strong; none of them had 
 stockings, and one had no shoes. The oldest 
 man looked clever, but we found he had 
 seen more of the world than the others, being 
 a German by birth. Mr. Moffat adapted his 
 discourse to their particular circumstances. 
 They behaved with much propriety during 
 the sermon. 
 
 We found two of the men did not live 
 there, but the two others who did Avere fa- 
 ther and son. We gave the old man some 
 Dutch tracts, which he received with plea- 
 sure. Observing this, we inquired if he had 
 a Bible; he feelingly answered, No; and told 
 us that when he was at the Cape, two years 
 ago, he was about purchasing a Bible, but 
 he found that he had not as many dollars 
 with him as would pay for it. Mr. Moffat 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 147 
 
 immediately brought his own octavo Bible, 
 from which he had just preached, and pre- 
 sented it to him. The man hugged the Bible 
 in his arms as if it had been his darling child. 
 On mentioning that it would show him the 
 way to heaven, he said he believed it would 
 do that. Nothing that I witnessed during 
 the whole journey delighted me more, than 
 the manner in which the father and son acted 
 towards this copy of the word of God. When 
 our evening worship was ended, they carried 
 this treasure in a kind of triumph to their 
 home. In a certain sense, salvation may be 
 said to have entered that house. 
 
 The oxen sent from Bethelsdorp to help 
 us on our journey, arrived at six p. m., which 
 was a very welcome sight. Thermometer, 
 at noon, 72. 
 
 June 21. The supply of thirty-six fresh 
 oxen made us resolve to push forward as 
 fast as possible to the Gamtoos River, to get 
 over while it continued low. We therefore 
 tied each span of oxen to the wagons they 
 were to drag, before it was dark yesterday, 
 that we might be able to get forward before 
 daylight in the morning, to the next boor’s 
 place, which was distant about four hours’ 
 drive. By doing so, the oxen would have 
 time to rest and feed, so as to enable them to 
 bring us to the Gamtoos River that evening. 
 About one o’clock in the morning the oxen 
 were yoked to the wagons, and we travelled 
 in less than four hours to Mr. Moolman’s 
 
148 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 place. I remained in bed in the wagon, 
 though some parts of the road were steep 
 and rocky. 
 
 About sunrise, Mr. Moolman, who was a 
 friend and subscriber to the Missionary So- 
 ciety, came to our wagons, and invited us to 
 a cup of coffee; and, at nine, a. m., to break- 
 fast. We found two families residing in 
 one of Mr. Moolman’s houses, who had 
 fled from their farms from dread of the Caf- 
 fres. Thermometer, at noon, 76. Midwinter- 
 day. 
 
 Mr. Moolman made us a present of a ba- 
 boon, to take up the interior, as a taster of 
 fruit we might meet with, and which might 
 be unknown to us; if, after tasting it, he 
 found it to be poisonous, he would throw it 
 away, and we ought not to eat of it. In- 
 stinct is seldom mistaken. 
 
 Departed from Mr. Moolman’s place, about 
 ten o’clock at night. While I was sitting in 
 the wagon, unable to see the road, as it was 
 dark, we came to a deep excavation made 
 by some late rains, which extended some feet 
 into the road; but being unperceived by us, 
 the wagon fell into it, with its wheels upper- 
 most. The instant the left fore wheel began 
 to sink, the driver, who sat before me, leaped 
 out on the right side of the wagon. I 
 was thrown out with force among stones, 
 falling on my back. The wagon struck the 
 bottom about a foot from one side of my 
 head, and a heavy vessel full of water, (which 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 149 
 
 they call a fagey, fell with great, violence a 
 few inches on the other side of me; had 
 either hit me, I must have been killed. I 
 was only stunned and bruised a little by the 
 fall. The instant the Hottentot who drove 
 could leave the oxen, he came running to my 
 help, lifted me up, and carried me to a little 
 distance from where I lay. With much pain 
 to myself, and exertion from others, I was 
 got out of the hollow in which the wagon 
 lay, which was about forty feet in length, from 
 four to five feet in depth, and from eight to 
 twelve feet in breadth. Such a pit on a prin- 
 cipal road, in few civilized countries, would 
 be left without some signal, to warn travel- 
 lers of their danger; yet we learned after- 
 wards, that there are persons appointed in 
 the colony as inspectors of the roads. 
 
 We were obliged to remove all the luggage 
 from the wagon, and then take it to pieces 
 before the men could bring it again to the 
 road. It was two o’clock in the morning be- 
 fore they could, with great exertion, get the 
 wagon on its wheels again. I was obliged 
 to lie extended upon the grass among the 
 bushes, while all was going on, being unable 
 to assist in the smallest degree. The luggage 
 remained scattered about until day-light made 
 its appearance. 
 
 June 22 . No sooner had day appeared 
 than we commenced repacking the wagon, 
 as we found no water in the narrow pass, 
 between two ranges of hill, where we dis- 
 14 
 
150 PACALTSDORP AND BETIIELSDORP. 
 
 covered ourselves to be, and also being soon 
 oppressed by the heat in that confined situa- 
 tion, the thermometer being 78, before we 
 left it at eleven a. m. We crossed the Gam- 
 toos River at one o’clock, and encamped on 
 the other side, when we all drank plentifully 
 of its refreshing water. 
 
 Captain D., who superintends a farm near 
 where we halted, invited us to dine with him. 
 We found he had in his employ, six Scotch- 
 men, six Irishmen, a Portuguese, and a Mo- 
 zambique slave. He found the Scotch and 
 Irish troublesome; as most of those who are 
 brought out come with the expectations of 
 being gentlemen on their arrival, and there- 
 fore feel indisposed to work. 
 
 We left the Gamtoos River at four p. m., 
 and moved on till eight, when we halted, as 
 the road onward was rather intricate in the 
 dark. 
 
 June 23. We moved forward at seven 
 a. m., travelling up and down low hills cover- 
 ed with natural wood, till nine, when we 
 halted in a lovely valley through which the 
 Loure runs. Thermometer, in the shade, 
 78; though the 23d of June there, answers 
 to the 23d of December in England. 
 
 Left the Loure River at noon, having im- 
 mediately to drag up the wagons by a steep 
 and difficult ascent, and at sunset we had a 
 no less difficult descent to accomplish, which 
 brought us to the Testass River. At eight 
 p. m., we halted at a pool of water a few 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 151 
 
 miles beyond the river. During the day we 
 had several fine views of the sea, and crossed 
 the grounds of New Ivirke; which, though 
 in a natural state, much resembled a noble- 
 man’s park in England. 
 
 We found a wagon from Bethelsdorp halt- 
 ing at the same pool with ourselves : the 
 people belonging to it came smiling to salute 
 us. The country before us was an extend- 
 ed plain, though elevated to a considerable 
 height above the sea, and the road good. 
 We met a Bethelsdorp Hottentot on a jour- 
 ney, riding an ox; he had some cooking 
 utensils tied behind him; he saluted our 
 Hottentots, and inquired how they did. We 
 passed many oxen feeding on both sides of 
 the road, a considerable portion of which, 
 we learned, belonged to our missionary sta- 
 tion at Theopolis, having been sent thither for 
 safety from the depredations of the Caffres, 
 and the remainder belonged to Bethelsdorp. 
 
 The town of Uitenhagen, though twelve 
 miles distant, became visible from the white- 
 ness of the houses that compose it; and also 
 parts of the Zwartkops River, which runs 
 along the grounds of Bethelsdorp. By and 
 by, we entered upon a valley which extends 
 down to Algoa Bay, saw beyond it, to the 
 n. e., the hills of Albany, once in the coun- 
 try of the Gonaquas, a tribe now extinct, 
 who inhabited the country which then lay 
 between that of the Hottentots and the 
 Caffres. The road to Bethelsdorp lay along 
 
152 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 the plain. About a mile from the settlement, 
 Dr. Philip and Mr. Evans rode forward to 
 announce our approach. At four p. m., our 
 wagons safely arrived in the middle of the 
 settlement, and spanned out in front of their 
 new church, exactly a fortnight after leaving 
 Pacaltsdorp. 
 
 I observed a considerable increase of good 
 houses since my former visit to Bethelsdorp, 
 but the total absence of trees, which cannot 
 grow there, and the stony ground on which 
 it stands, give it an uninviting appearance. 
 Soon all the Hottentots around repaired to 
 the wagons. Nothing affected me more than 
 recognizing several among them who had 
 travelled with me on my former journey, 
 with whom I shook hands in the most cor- 
 dial manner. I considered them as persons 
 to whom I was still a debtor, for their long 
 continued exertions. They said they never 
 expected to see me again. 
 
 At seven, we repaired to their meeting for 
 evening worship, and returned thanks for 
 our prosperous journey; by the kindness of 
 God, not having been once impeded by rains, 
 though travelling in the rainy season. 
 
 We had remarked that, from Zwellendam 
 to Bethelsdorp, we had seen no wagons tra- 
 velling up the country. The reason assign- 
 ed for this, was the general alarm excited by 
 the irruptions of the Caffres. Our own party 
 was the only one we saw upon the road 
 moving in the direction of Caffreland. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 153 
 
 In the morning, I took a solitary walk up 
 a narrow valley, to see the state of the gar- 
 dens. The labour of erecting walls round 
 each garden must have been considerable, 
 perhaps equal to that of Pacaltsdorp, but far 
 less efficient. Here the walls of the gardens 
 were erected by the individual family to 
 which they belonged, but the walls at Pa- 
 caltsdorp were erected by the united labours 
 of the whole population. In the former case, 
 they would often work with languor, and 
 under discouragement; in the latter, the 
 work went forward as an amusement, all 
 seeming cheerful and happy, especially the 
 young people, striving which should do most 
 work. There also they have much better 
 sods, or materials for the work, and build 
 much more substantially than here. 
 
 We spent the Lord’s day in the town of 
 Uitenhagen, where the landdrost of the dis- 
 trict resides. The parish church not being 
 yet built, the minister preached in a large 
 room in the morning, in the Dutch language. 
 I preached in it in the afternoon, in English, 
 to about forty soldiers of the fifty-fourth re- 
 giment, and some others who understood 
 English. 
 
 On Monday, Mr. Morison, with whom I 
 had lodged, kindly rode back with me to 
 Bethelsdorp. As he had been in business for 
 some time, both at St. Helena and Port Jack- 
 son, the information he communicated made 
 the road appear shorter. Though the mid- 
 
154 PACALTSDORP and bethelsdorp. 
 
 die of winter, no summer day in England 
 could be finer. We passed some lovely, 
 though only temporary lakes formed by the 
 late rains: on the surface of one of them, 
 wild ducks were swimming. The willow 
 tree retained many of its old leaves, and was 
 shooting forth new ones, and many bushes 
 and fields were covered with flowers. 
 
 The Caffres lately attacked Graham’s 
 Town, which is the nearest colonial town to 
 Caffreland, and the head quarters of the 
 army. This attack had astonished many, 
 not only by its boldness, but by the art they 
 displayed in the affair. They passed undis- 
 covered all the smaller military posts to at- 
 tack the principal one; and though they did 
 not succeed in taking the town, they captur- 
 ed the cattle belonging to it, which was ef- 
 fected by another division during the attack. 
 It is thought that at the time they were al- 
 most famishing; for they have no commissa- 
 ries to provide food for their armies, and 
 they ate three captured oxen, without the 
 least cooking. 
 
 Mr. Smit, the Moravian missionary, with 
 his brethren, and Hottentots who composed 
 their station on the White River, are now at 
 Uitenhagen, where they took refuge after the 
 destruction of their settlement by the Caffres, 
 and the murder of nine of their Hottentots, 
 and the loss of all their cattle. The land- 
 drost, Cuyler, has been very kind to them in 
 their distress, in accommodating them with 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 155 
 
 houses for their residence till they can be 
 otherwise settled. 
 
 In a late skirmish with the Caffres, a Hot- 
 tentot called out that he had shot such a 
 Caffre, naming him. What he said was 
 overheard by the Caffres, when one of them 
 called to him that he lied, for his shot had 
 not touched the man. It is a custom with 
 them to conceal their slain as much as they 
 can. 
 
 We visited most of the best houses of the 
 Hottentots, and were pleased to see their 
 neatness, cleanness, and good size. I found 
 in one of them Valentine, a young man who 
 formerly travelled with me, but who now 
 appears in declining health. 
 
 Captain — , who has purchased a farm in 
 the neighbourhood, called at Bethelsdorp, to 
 see if any Hottentots could be had to assist 
 him, for he had only one Hottentot left, all 
 having been ordered upon the commando. 
 Most people regret the cause of all this trou- 
 ble; namely, the Engish entering into king 
 Geika’s quarrel with Slamby his principal 
 chief, and attacking him in support of Geika. 
 Most I meet with think, especially those who 
 feel inconvenience from the quarrel, that it 
 would have been better to have left the 
 Caffres to have fought their own battles, 
 and settled their own disputes among them- 
 selves. 
 
 Captain — told me of a small party of sol- 
 diers who were in pursuit of cattle taken by 
 
156 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 the Caffres, but were surrounded by them, 
 and all slain except one officer and a soldier, 
 who leaped over a low cliff, happily among 
 bushes which broke their fall, so that they 
 were not killed. They concealed themselves 
 among the bushes until evening, when they 
 escaped to the nearest post. 
 
 July 1. I was pleased to see two boors, 
 with their wives and families, walking across 
 the village from their wagons, to what is 
 called the office, or room at the end of their 
 church, to purchase Testaments. In that 
 room is kept a stock of Bibles and Testa- 
 ments for sale, which must be a blessing to 
 that part of Africa. The school is only in 
 part taught on the British system, but the 
 whole plan, it is likely, will soon be intro- 
 duced. 
 
 Nootka, a Hottentot, has been considered 
 a Caffre spy at Graham’s town. If so, he 
 acted with much cunning. There he receiv- 
 ed his rations daily; but, for some time prior 
 to the Caffre attack, he was accustomed to be 
 absent daily, in search of a horse which he 
 pretended had strayed. He actually received 
 his ration as usual on the morning of the day 
 on which the Caffres made their grand attack 
 on Graham’s Town; after which he was 
 observed to leave the town, and was after- 
 wards seen acting as guide to the Caffre 
 army, which was supposed to amount to be- 
 tween six and eight thousand men. In the 
 battle he was taken prisoner: but, while 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 157 
 
 under their care, a man in coloured clothes 
 came and shot him dead. The officers re- 
 gretted his death at that time, thinking that 
 probably some important information might 
 have been obtained from him. 
 
 July 4. Sabbath. About two hundred 
 and fifty Hottentots attended worship. 
 
 Some of the commando were fishing a few 
 days ago at the mouth of the Great Fish 
 River, where it enters the Indian Ocean. 
 Some Caffres from the opposite side observ- 
 ing them, called over to them that they were 
 cowards, and were afraid to come into their 
 country to fight them. 
 
 Though only a little past midwinter day, I 
 observed two swallows flying about, one of 
 ash colour and the other black, both smaller 
 than those seen in England. 
 
 July 5. The monthly missionary prayer 
 meeting was held in the evening. At the 
 conclusion, the sum of five dollars was col- 
 lected in aid of the Missionary Society. 
 
 A Christian Hottentot was once attacked 
 by a Mohammedan about his religion. The 
 simple Hottentot knew nothing about dispu- 
 tation: he only said to him, “I do not ask 
 you about your religion, but I would ask, 
 What is the state of your heart?” 
 
 July 12. Monday. We intended to have 
 left Bethelsdorp forTheopolis at nine o’clock 
 in the morning; but the oxen could not be 
 found : all the afternoon was spent waiting 
 for their arrival. At length we determined 
 
158 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 to put off our departure till one in the morn- 
 ing, when the moon would be risen, hoping 
 the oxen would be found by that time. Our 
 mattresses being in the wagons, we all slept 
 in them to be ready to depart during the 
 night, whether awake or asleep; but on 
 awaking at sunrise, I was sorry to find my- 
 self still in the middle of Bethelsdorp; how- 
 ever, I was pleased to hear that all the oxen 
 had been collected. The scarcity of grass 
 around Bethelsdorp had caused the oxen to 
 wander a distance in search of it. 
 
 July 13. After an early breakfast, we 
 were glad to find every thing ready for our 
 departure. Many of the people came out to 
 to bid us farewell; and about fifty females 
 marched in a body, by the side of our wagon, 
 for more than a mile, singing hymns; after 
 which they returned to their homes. 
 
 Mr. B — , who was going to Graham’s 
 Town, sat with me in the wagon. He re- 
 marked, that along the coast of Africa, fresh 
 water can be got by digging outside of high 
 watermark; that several birds change their 
 colours in the winter; that there are about 
 three hundred different kinds of heath in 
 South Africa ; that the baboon eats scorpions, 
 but he is careful first to break off the tail, 
 which contains the poison; that what we 
 had experienced about Zwellendam was gen- 
 eral in Africa, namely, that the valleys are 
 colder than eminences. He mentioned in 
 proof of it, the constant practice of cattle to 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 159 
 
 sleep on high ground in winter for warmth, 
 and in the low ground in summer for cool- 
 ness. Also, that in some parts the strata of 
 the mountains are horizontal: where this is 
 the case, water is most plentiful ; it seems to 
 prevent the water from sinking down and 
 being lost; but most rocks of the mountains 
 being perpendicular, the water passes quick- 
 ly down, and is hard to find. 
 
 The decayed mimosa and willow trees, as 
 also the aloe, are used for tinder by the Hot- 
 tentots, and answer the purpose well. 
 
 While at dinner in the tent, we were visit- 
 ed by a boor and his brother, who had fled 
 from his farm on the Zondag (or Sunday) 
 River, in consequence of the Caffres having 
 attacked and plundered his house of every 
 thing. A short time before, he had a narrow 
 escape from being murdered: while riding 
 with his brother at a distance from his house, 
 the rain fell in torrents, and was blown in 
 his face by the wind, so that he could not 
 look up; he asked his brother to try and look 
 up to see if any Caffres were near. He im- 
 mediately observed a party of Caffres at a 
 little distance before them, who were on the 
 point of throwing their javelins, or assagays, 
 at them. He and his brother instantly clapp- 
 ed their spurs to their horses and galloped 
 through the middle of them; which was such 
 an unexpected occurrence that they were 
 permitted to pass without being attacked. 
 
 We left the Koecha River at four p. m.: 
 
160 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 ten armed Hottentot soldiers, granted by the 
 landdrost for our protection, now marched in 
 a soldier-like manner before, and eight others 
 dispersed themselves in different positions 
 among our three wagons. At narrow passes, 
 those ahead halted till the last wagon had got 
 through it. We went along one narrow pass 
 between two low hills, and these covered 
 with bushes, which extended more than a 
 mile. Being only starlight, a very few con- 
 cealed Caffres might, by throwing their spears 
 at us as we passed along, have killed or 
 wounded the whole party, without our per- 
 ceiving from whence the instruments of death 
 came; but a kind Providence watched over 
 us. 
 
 About nine p. m. we reached the banks of 
 the Zondag River, where we found a party 
 of soldiers stationed, watching the ford. They 
 were sitting round four or five fires. They 
 appeared to have nothing to protect them 
 from the weather, but a few mats made of 
 rushes, suspended on the windward side of 
 the fire. We got all safe across the river, 
 though it reached about half-way to the 
 backs of the oxen. The tide from the Indian 
 Ocean comes up to within two miles of the 
 place where we crossed, but having a bar of 
 sand across the mouth, no ship can enter it. 
 We halted a little beyond the river, which is 
 the commencement of Zursfeld, now called 
 Albany; for the possession of which, the 
 Caffres and colonists are now contending; 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 161 
 
 though the war is professedly in support of 
 Geika against Slamby. Should the com- 
 mando, now on the eve of entering Caffraria, 
 succeed in destroying or capturing their cat- 
 tle, consequently rendering the bereaved Caf- 
 fres desperate, the contention will be more 
 fierce and bloody than ever. The place 
 where we halted was said to be about ten or 
 twelve miles from where the infant settle- 
 ment of our Moravian brethren stood, before 
 it was destroyed by the CafFres.* 
 
 July 14. At five o’clock in the morning, 
 with moonlight, we began our morning jour- 
 ney, travelling across a thick forest a great 
 part of the stage, till eight p. m., when we 
 halted on the highest part of a low hill, to 
 give our hungry cattle an opportunity of 
 feeding; for they had all been made fast to 
 the wagons, to prevent their straying into the 
 clutches of the Caffres. 
 
 Chameleons are said to be plentiful in Al- 
 bany. The Hottentot fig-plant, which is a 
 succulent, is affected by difference of soil, 
 sometimes producing yellow or lilac flowers 
 of different hues, according to the soil. When 
 the ground is ploughed up for the first time, 
 here, as in other countries, it often sends up 
 weeds which were never seen upon it before. 
 Indeed, it is believed by naturalists, from 
 facts which have occurred, that seeds will 
 
 * This settlement has since been re-established, and 
 has gathered many of the natives under the sound of the 
 gospel. 
 
162 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 keep fresh in the ground, when beyond the 
 reach of air, for many hundred years, which 
 will vegetate, through the influence of the 
 air, on being brought nearer to the surface of 
 the ground. We passed several excavations 
 on the sides of the hills, resembling deep 
 quarries, not produced by art, but by the 
 running of torrents of water in the rainy 
 season. 
 
 Went forward at noon. An aged boor 
 who lives near Assagai-bush, travelled along 
 with us in his wagon for protection. He was 
 a Prussian, had been seven voyages to India, 
 and had resided twenty-six years in the Cape 
 colony. We travelled along Quacha Plain, 
 which was smooth and level as a bowling 
 green. A little before sunset we halted for 
 a few minutes at Newkerk’s Place, or farm. 
 At present, three farmers and their families 
 are residing there, who have been driven 
 from their farms by the Caffres. One family 
 lost one hundred and sixty-four oxen and 
 cows; another, one hundred and ninety-five; 
 and the third, two hundred and seventy-five. 
 The Caffres carried them off, as the plun- 
 dering Sabeans carried off Job’s cattle, three 
 thousand years ago, who appear to have 
 been the Caffres of those times. As in 
 Job’s case, so in that of these impoverished 
 farmers, their riches took wings and flew 
 away. 
 
 About six o’clock we halted at Bushman 
 River, where we found a village wholly 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETUELSDORP. 163 
 
 composed of farmers and Hottentots who 
 have fled from the Caffres, and live together 
 for mutual defence, waiting the issue of the 
 war. There are upwards of twenty colonist, 
 and more than forty Hottentot families. 
 
 We called on the field cornet, who informed 
 us that the Caffres had resolved to invade 
 the colony the instant they heard of the com- 
 mando entering their country. As a proof 
 of it, he mentioned that lately a report was 
 spread that the commando had entered Caf- 
 freland, on which two numerous parties of 
 Caffres moved towards the Great Fish River, 
 which is the boundary line between the two 
 countries, to cross it and enter the colony; 
 but, on learning that the report was false, 
 they retired. 
 
 Here the miseries attending war are exhi- 
 bited, though on a small scale, by families 
 driven from their peaceful homes, suffering, 
 of course, many privations, and under con- 
 tinual apprehension of being attacked, rob- 
 bed, and murdered by their barbarous neigh- 
 bours, who neither fear God nor man. With 
 some difficulty we crossed the Bushman 
 River in the dark, and halted on the other 
 side for the night. We had intended to tra- 
 vel four hours longer, but the Hottentots 
 judging the oxen would be unable to accom- 
 plish that, we consented to remain where we 
 were. 
 
 At five in the morning, we proceeded for 
 four hours, when we encamped on the side 
 
164 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 of a hill, where the road to Theopolis sepa- 
 rates from that leading to Graham’s Town. 
 The Hottentots remarked, that now we were 
 to go out of the world, for we should not see 
 a house or a human being till we should 
 reach Theopolis, which was upwards of 
 forty miles. The country, though abound- 
 ing in grass, was destitute of trees and bushes, 
 which makes it look naked and gloomy, 
 while the district we had left behind resem- 
 bled a paradise. The water also is scarce 
 and brackish. Five of the commando pass- 
 ed us on horseback, patrolling; all had mus- 
 kets. 
 
 At two p. m. we moved along an exten- 
 sive and elevated plain, covered abundantly 
 with brown grass mixed with green; of 
 Avhich the oxen seemed fond, though it gave 
 the country an unpleasant aspect. Mr. Bak- 
 kar picked up, among the grass, a species of 
 indigo plant. The Theopolis road was visi- 
 ble to a considerable distance, from the grass 
 being trodden down by the feet of the oxen, 
 which gave it a degree of whiteness, distin- 
 guishable from the rest. 
 
 July 16 . Still travelling over a plain. At 
 nine a. m. the Hottentots discovered two fat 
 porcupines, which they drove towards the 
 wagons. When our dogs attacked them, the 
 porcupines always turned their backs to 
 them, the points of their quills all lying in 
 that direction, which are the chief means of 
 defence Providence has given them. If the 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 165 
 
 dogs approached near them, they suddenly 
 sprang backwards to pierce them with these 
 weapons of defence; but the dogs, seemingly 
 aware of their danger from that quarter, 
 always aimed at seizing them by the head 
 or throat, where there were no quills, these 
 parts being only covered with bristles. One 
 of them always inclined towards a clump of 
 bushes, and could not be forced to go in a 
 direct line towards the wagons by the mus- 
 kets and sticks of the men; when near the 
 bush, it made a desperate effort to take re- 
 fuge in it, and succeeded, so that had any of 
 the holes in which it burrowed been there, 
 it must have escaped. It was some minutes 
 before it could be driven from the bush, and 
 in the struggle it lost much of its armour. 
 Both were killed at a little distance from the 
 wagons. Dr. Philip, at this time, was out 
 with the horsemen, and witnessed the killing 
 of a quacha, or wild ass, which, in its stripes 
 over the body, resembles the zebra. The 
 men brought the skin, but left the carcass 
 for food to the wild beasts. 
 
 Mr. Moffat mentioned a curious method 
 which the Namaqua nation employ for pre- 
 venting the timber which they use from 
 splitting or cracking. They dig a hole in 
 the ground, the size or length of the timber 
 which they mean to season. They place a 
 fire along the bottom of this trench, and 
 when burned to embers, they put a layer of 
 sand above the hot embers, on which they 
 15 
 
]66 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 place the timber, then cover it with sand 
 and let it remain for a few hours. They 
 then remove the bark from it, and repeat the 
 operation next day, and the succeeding day 
 repeat the operation a third time. Such 
 timber is never split by the drought or great 
 heat of arid Namaqualand. It is baking 
 wood. To prevent worms entering timber, 
 it is a common practice with many to bury 
 the pieces in manure for half a day. 
 
 We halted at the side of the Kareeka Ri- 
 ver, a favourite haunt of the Caffres, the 
 hills being thickly covered with wood. The 
 scenery on each side was picturesque. We 
 regretted that so lovely a place should ever 
 be made a field of blood. In the neighbour- 
 hood is a small hill, chiefly composed of 
 limestone, in a state easy to be removed. 
 
 Immediately on reaching the top of a hill 
 on the other side of the river, we had a fine 
 view of the Indian Ocean. Passed a farm 
 belonging to Major Fraser, landdrost of Gra- 
 ham’s Town, which had been destroyed by 
 the Caffres, and had a gloomy aspect, the 
 shells of the houses only remaining; the 
 garden was overrun with weeds; there was 
 a row of large orange trees completely strip- 
 ped of their fruit by the Caffres and baboons. 
 All was desolation. 
 
 At five p. m. we came in sight of Theo- 
 polis, in a valley surrounded by low hills, 
 having their fronts decked with wood. We 
 descended to the settlement, and were soon 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 167 
 
 welcomed by the population, who hastily 
 turned out to witness our entry. 
 
 I was soon accosted by several whose 
 countenances I instantly recognized as hav- 
 ing belonged to my party on my former jour- 
 ney. Tzatzoe, son of a Caffre chief, whom 
 I had formerly seen at Bethelsdorp, came 
 forward and shook hands. Mr. Ulbricht, 
 the missionary at. the station, kindly received 
 us, with Mrs. Williams, whose husband had 
 lately died while actively labouring as a mis- 
 sionary in CafFreland. 
 
 Soon after our arrival, our friends began 
 to relate the numerous perils they had escap- 
 ed, the heavy losses they had sustained, and 
 the sufferings they had endured from the 
 repeated attacks and depredations of the 
 Caffres. On several different days and nights, 
 during an incessant rain of six weeks, were 
 they surrounded by hundreds of these sava- 
 ges, who destroyed their gardens and fields, 
 and also carried off between seven and eight 
 hundred head of cattle. Frequently they 
 rushed upon them with their spears, fired on 
 them also with muskets, and crowded their 
 lanes; but they were always repulsed by the 
 Hottentots, and several of them slain. They 
 were frequently riding round the settlement 
 on the tops of the hills, while others pounced 
 from the woods upon the people. One night, 
 the people were fighting with them till the 
 morning, up to the knees in water or mud, 
 from the powerful rains at that time. While 
 
16S PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 the people were fighting in defence of their 
 lives, families, and all they possessed, the 
 feeble missionary like Moses, frequently re- 
 tired to pray for their protection. The Caf- 
 fres knew the times when they were accus- 
 tomed to assemble for public worship, by 
 the ringing of the bell, and they took advan- 
 tage of it; wherefore they only assembled 
 during daylight, and even then every person 
 brought his musket along with him. 
 
 The Caffres, while besieging Theopolis, 
 cooked the flesh of the oxen they had stolen, 
 in the houses at an outpost about a mile from 
 the village, and also in a thicket of trees im- 
 mediately opposite. It was always known 
 when the Caffres were either approaching 
 towards them, or retiring from them, by the 
 number of vultures and crows which hover- 
 ed over them, to pick up the flesh which they 
 could not consume, or throw away. 
 
 At length, in consequence of repeated at- 
 tacks, the missionary, with the help of the 
 people, resolved to fortify the place, which 
 he was well able to plan, from his acquain- 
 tance with the fortified towns in the Nether- 
 lands, of which country he was a native. 
 He did not intend to fortify the village, but 
 a piece of ground in its immediate vicinity, 
 large enough not only to contain the whole 
 population, but also all their cattle. For 
 this purpose they enclosed a square piece of 
 ground more than an acre in extent, with 
 strong palisades about eight feet high. On 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 169 
 
 each side they carried out a redoubt, by 
 which contrivance they could see and oppose 
 enemies coming in any direction. The posts 
 were sunk deep, and firmly fixed in the 
 ground, and these posts were chiefly com- 
 posed of what they call the Caffre tree, 
 which, though planted without any root, 
 soon grows well. Indeed, we found on our 
 arrival that they were sending out branches 
 in all directions, which will render the fence 
 more impenetrable, and by taking root, more 
 permanent. The posts, in circumference, were 
 similar to that of a fir-tree in this country, of 
 thirty years growth. Since that erection the 
 Caffres had not attacked them. 
 
 July 17. Employed till dinner in settling 
 the affairs of the station, after which we 
 went to view the lands belonging to it. 
 They pointed out to us the grave of a Caffre 
 who was slain; and, on a hill opposite, two 
 other graves of these poor men. The sight 
 certainly excited pity for men who, to obtain 
 a few feasts on flesh, or for the sake of rob- 
 bery or revenge, could expose their lives in 
 such a way; and we regretted that such 
 scenes should take place around a spot ap- 
 propriated to teaching the benign doctrines 
 of the gospel of peace. 
 
 We viewed also a small grinding mill, 
 erected by Mr. Ulbricht with persevering 
 industry; also the grounds where the fields 
 and gardens all used to be; but, in conse- 
 
170 PAC ALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 quence of the present state of things, all was 
 lying waste. The Caffres not only took or 
 destroyed all the fruits that were on the 
 ground, hut they actually tore up or trod 
 down all their fences and hedges. Some of 
 the Hottentots at Theopoiis were personally 
 acquainted with many of their spoilers. 
 
 From the summit of one of the hills we 
 ascended, we had an extensive view of the 
 country around, bounded by the Indian 
 Ocean to the east. The elegant palms grow- 
 ing on the banks of the little river running 
 in the valley below, added greatly to the 
 beauty of the scenery. The scattered clumps 
 of trees seemed as if they had been arranged 
 by art, and increased the beauty of the pros- 
 pect. 
 
 Mr. Ulbricht pointed to the spot, where I 
 had said on my former journey, “ If this ever 
 becomes a missionary station, here the church 
 ought to stand.” 
 
 Mrs. Williams, whose husband died in 
 Caffreland, has two sons, Joseph and John; 
 the first may be called a Hottentot, the other 
 a Caffre, having been born in the two coun- 
 tries. When the eldest, who is only three 
 years and a half old, came out of Caffreland, 
 he could speak three languages, English, 
 Dutch, and Caffre. The first he learned 
 from his parents, the second from the Hot- 
 tentot children, and the third from the Caffre 
 children. It is surprising that so young a 
 
pacaltsdorp and BETHELSDORP. 171 
 
 boy, in speaking these languages, could dis- 
 tinguish or separate the words belonging to 
 each of them without intermixing them. 
 
 While in Caffreland, Mrs. Williams de- 
 clares that on every occasion the Caffres 
 treated her husband and her with kindness, 
 and that she never considered herself in dan- 
 ger, even when her husband was gone, and 
 they were at war with the colony. 
 
 Our Bootchuana was delighted to find one 
 of his own nation at Theopolis, a young man, 
 who could, of course, converse with him; a 
 pleasure the poor fellow had not enjoyed for 
 the greater part of a year: indeed all that 
 time his tongue and ears had been almost 
 useless to him. His countryman, having 
 acquired a smattering of the Dutch lan- 
 guage, knew the state of the country in re- 
 ference to the Caffres, and informed him of 
 it; he being, though travelling with us, 
 utterly ignorant of it. They came together, 
 like brothers, into the room where we sat. 
 Our man manifested the greatest pleasure in 
 looking at his countryman, a constant smile 
 being upon his countenance, bending his 
 body towards him, and his right hand rest- 
 ing upon his shoulder; also, now and then, 
 falling into fits of laughter, from no other 
 cause but his being beside his countryman. 
 
 Mr. Muller, the commander of a comman- 
 do lying about three miles off, visited us seve- 
 ral times with some of his brother farmers. 
 He hoped we would not attempt to cross 
 
172 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 from Bethelsdorp to Graaf Reynet, while in- 
 fested with Cadres as it then was. This had 
 been our intention after finishing our mis- 
 sionary business at Bethelsdorp. 
 
 Though it is said that fish on the sea coast 
 are plentiful, the people are not benefitted 
 thereby, having, as yet, no nets wherewith 
 to collect this treasure, which Providence 
 brings almost to their door. 
 
 July IS. Sabbath. The people assembled 
 at ten o’clock for worship, by the ringing 
 of the bell. About two hundred Hottentots 
 were present. We were sorry to see only a 
 few women clothed in cotton, the rest in 
 sheepskins. Mr. Moffat preached to them in 
 Dutch, from Heb. iv. 9, “There remaineth a 
 rest for the people of God.” After which, 
 Dr. Philip, through an interpreter, addressed 
 the people, on the subject of love to their 
 teacher and to each other; the necessity and 
 importance of attending instruction in the 
 school; that the government, as well as we, 
 were of opinion that parents who prevented 
 their children attending school should not be 
 permitted to remain at the institution; also, 
 that those who constantly continued lazy and 
 idle should be excluded, for the apostle of 
 God says, that those who will not work shall 
 not eat; that a new system of education was 
 soon to be introduced, by which their children 
 would he able to learn more quickly and 
 pleasantly. 
 
 A Hottentot put a letter into my hand, pur- 
 
PACALTSDORP AXD BETHELSDORP. 173 
 
 porting to be from the people, expressing 
 thankfulness for my preservation over the 
 great water, (the ocean,) and their seeing me 
 again in Africa among them. 
 
 There is a white woman in the settlement 
 married to a Hottentot, the first instance of 
 the kind I ever heard of. Her conduct is 
 said to be exemplary; her parents are dead; 
 but by this marriage she has lost caste in the 
 eyes of her former white connexions. 
 
 July 19. Overheard some of our Hotten- 
 tots at prayer long before the dawn of day. 
 
 Before leaving Cape Town, on my former 
 visit to the interior of Africa, the present Lord 
 Howden, then governor of the Cape colony, 
 offered to grant to the Missionary Society 
 any section of land in the Zureveld, for a 
 new missionary settlement, which I should 
 select. After visiting many parts of that ex- 
 tensive tract of country, with the advice of 
 missionaries who went with me from Bethels- 
 dorp, I fixed upon this lovely and seemingly 
 fertile spot, when every thing remained, per- 
 haps, in the state in which the flood left it. 
 Perhaps never one spadeful of its soil had 
 been disturbed by man during all the long 
 intervening period. His excellency the go- 
 vernor, when on a tour in the colony, a short 
 time afterward, went and visited the spot 
 himself, and honourably made a grant of it 
 to the Missionary Society, and conferred upon 
 it the name by which it is known at present; 
 only requesting that the missionaries would 
 16 
 
174 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 never permit a stately wild plum tree to be 
 cut down, which stands in the centre of a 
 plain, lying between the ranges of hills that 
 bound or form the two sides of the valley, a 
 little above which the present town is placed. 
 Its height is not great, but the branches which 
 it sends forth in all directions, like arms 
 stretched out as if to salute every comer, are 
 very magnificent. We found it still standing, 
 decked with its evergreen dress, a great orna- 
 ment to the field where it is. I hope it will 
 remain for centuries, a standing memorial of 
 the benefactor who gave us the land.* 
 
 The settlement commenced in the year 
 1814. That year the produce of their harvest 
 was only eight muids, or thirty-two bushels: 
 in this year, IS 19, the produce was one thou- 
 sand muids, or four thousand bushels. In 
 IS 14, they brought with them from Bethels- 
 dorp, three hundred cattle: in this year, IS 19, 
 their herds amounted to two thousand; but 
 upwards of one thousand of these had since 
 been stolen by the Cadres. An ox belonging 
 to the Missionary Society, after being taken 
 to Caffraria, actually made his escape from 
 the Caffres, and returned to his residence at 
 Theopolis. 
 
 The Caffres have different plans of attack- 
 ing: sometimes, while advancing, they quick- 
 ly run a yard or two to the left, then quickly 
 returning as far to the right, or moving hastily 
 
 * This tree has since been blown down. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 175 
 
 in a zigzag way, to prevent their opponents 
 taking aim at them. At other times, they 
 rush forward with frightful impetuosity, and 
 horrid howling, till their opponents seem 
 ready to fire, when they instantly fall flat 
 upon the ground, till the shot has gone over 
 them, then they spring up, and throw their 
 javelins with such violence that they will 
 penetrate through the body of a horse at the 
 distance of forty yards, and then they push 
 forward to the cannon’s mouth or the point 
 of the musket. Their most desperate attack 
 is after all their assagais or javelins are thrown 
 except one, this they break shorter, and with 
 it press forward into any danger. 
 
 When the Caffres were flying from Gra- 
 ham’s Town, after their repulse, they were 
 met unexpectedly by an officer and thirteen 
 men, who had been patrolling. The men 
 advised the officer not to fire; they then rode 
 quickly forward, though quietly. The Caffres, 
 who from their number could instantly have 
 involved them in a shower of spears, opened 
 a way for them, and allowed them to pass 
 unmolested. 
 
 A young officer, who commanded a small 
 post of four men, was attacked by a numerous 
 party of Caffres; he made holes in every part 
 of his house, through which he fired on the 
 assailants. His mother, who happened to be 
 with him, with the four soldiers, kept con- 
 stantly loading muskets and handing them to 
 the officer, who took a good aim at every 
 
176 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 Caffre who offered to advance. In this way 
 he brought down many. They then attempt- 
 ed to burn his house, but finding their at- 
 tempts baffled, they retired back to the woods, 
 on which the officer in triumph carried off 
 his mother on horseback to Graham’s Town. 
 
 In the forenoon, Mr. Ulbricht incautiously 
 put a bag under the table, containing fifteen 
 pounds of gunpowder, in the room where 
 the family and visiters constantly sit; the 
 dinner was put upon his table, of which the 
 family and all of us partook. After dinner, 
 a charcoal fire in a vessel was brought and 
 placed under the table, to be ready for any 
 smoker to light his pipe at; little cinders from 
 this fire vessel were, now and then, setting 
 fire to grains of powder, which attracted my 
 attention, and led me to notice it; on which 
 Mr. Ulbricht said he knew what it was, took 
 the bag from under the table and carried it to 
 another room. He then told us the grains of 
 powder must have fallen out of the bag he 
 had taken away, and that there were fifteen 
 pounds of gunpowder in it. But for the merci- 
 ful notice of the grains exploding, the whole 
 family, visiters, and many others around, must 
 in a few minutes have been blown to atoms. 
 I believe every one present felt grateful to 
 God for the hairbreadth escape from destruc- 
 tion we had met with, though we could not 
 but severely blame the carelessness of our 
 companion. 
 
 After dinner, Dr. Philip and I, accompa- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 177 
 
 nied by Mr. Ulbricht, left the settlement on 
 horseback, to view the grounds along the 
 valley to the sea, a distance of about four 
 miles. The hills, forming the sides of the 
 valley for the first two miles, were thickly 
 clothed with trees, whose foliage is always 
 green. A small river runs, in a serpentine 
 course, along the middle of the valley, which 
 seldom exceeds a quarter of a mile in breadth. 
 Little spots on the hills and valley had evi- 
 dently been cultivated, but were afterwards 
 destroyed by the ravages of the Caffres. To- 
 wards the ocean, the river becomes a stand- 
 ing water, in consequence of a bar of sand 
 running across its mouth, which so com- 
 pletely dams it up, that the fresh water can 
 only reach the sea by oozing through the 
 sand. 
 
 After great rains, the river acquires such 
 an accession of power, as to be able to open 
 a way for itself to the ocean; but no sooner 
 do its waters decrease in strength, than the 
 sea throws up the sandy bar, and again con- 
 fines the stream. 
 
 Arriving at the shore, we found a smooth, 
 sandy beach, extending to a considerable dis- 
 tance on each side of the opening by which 
 we entered, surmounted by a range of low, 
 steep, and remarkably green hills: it pre- 
 sented an insurmountable barrier to the fu- 
 rious waves of the ocean. The constant suc- 
 cession of rolling billows perpetually break- 
 ing upon the sands, with the spray proceed- 
 
178 pacaltsdorp and eethelsdorp. 
 
 ing from them, driven before the wind, added 
 much to the scenery. 
 
 The termination of Theopolis River resem- 
 bled a considerable lake, separated from the 
 Indian Ocean by perhaps a hundred feet of 
 smooth sandy beach. Cranes, and various 
 kinds of beautiful sea fowls, were standing 
 in the lake and on the shore. These and all 
 the surrounding objects were, at that time, of 
 a golden hue from the rays of the evening 
 sun, which rendered the scene very interest- 
 ing. Our enjoyment, however, was checked 
 by the reflection, that probably some of those 
 savage CafFres, who had so lately attacked 
 Theopolis, might be lurking among the neigh- 
 bouring cliffs or bushes. 
 
 The sun being nearly down, we left the 
 beach to return to the settlement over the 
 hills, on the east or opposite bank of the 
 river from that by which we had descended. 
 Our progress, after some time, was stopped 
 by the deep bed of a river, skirted on the 
 other side by an impenetrable wood. We de- 
 scended, and passed along its margin among 
 tall grass, and it being almost dark, our horses 
 had many hairbreadth escapes, from step- 
 ping into deep holes made by the burrowing 
 of the wild boar. At length, coming to a 
 wide sheet of water, Mr. Ulbricht, after has- 
 tily saying it was the road, dashed into it, 
 when instantly nothing more than his own 
 and his horse’s head appeared above water. 
 This mode of crossing rather startled us: it 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 179 
 
 occasioned a pause, and we could not help 
 wishing for either a boat or a bridge. Ob- 
 serving our hesitation, Mr. Ulbricht imme- 
 diately recrossed to us, soaked with water, 
 and proposed trying a pass through the wood, 
 made, by the wild beasts, which he feared 
 would be difficult to penetrate with horses. 
 Resolving to attempt it, rather than wade up 
 to the neck, we followed him to a narrow 
 passage in the wood, higher up the river, 
 into which we entered dragging our horses 
 after us. As it was extremely dark, we 
 were obliged to feel our way, and had our 
 progress frequently obstructed, owing to the 
 saddles being caught by strong branches 
 hanging across the path. After pursuing 
 the windings of this intricate path for what 
 appeared a long time, we succeeded in get- 
 ting out of it, into ground covered with grass 
 and bushes. 
 
 When within a quarter of a mile of The- 
 opolis, we were surprised by hearing several 
 musket shots fired from a thicket which lay 
 between us and the town; these were soon 
 followed by others from different parts, and 
 some were fired from the front of a hill at a 
 great distance. On seeing all this bustle, our 
 friend Ulbricht concluded that the settlement 
 was attacked by the Caffres, who we sus- 
 pected were between us and it. We halted 
 to consider what was most proper to be done 
 in present circumstances. 
 
 We were soon afterwards released from 
 
180 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 our dilemma, by a Hottentot reaching us, 
 with the information that the town was not 
 attacked ; but that the people, in consequence 
 of our absence so long after it was dark, were 
 alarmed for our safety, and were firing off 
 their muskets to intimidate Caffres, should 
 they be attacking us, or to encourage us if 
 we were approaching. Before our arrival at 
 the town, we were met by Messrs. E. and 
 M. with many Hottentots armed, who had 
 set out to search for us: we were mutually 
 pleased to find our apprehensions altogether 
 groundless. 
 
 After taking leave of many friends, we de- 
 parted, at ten, from Theopolis. Mrs. Wil- 
 liams accompanied us in her wagon, having 
 been advised by us to take up her residence, 
 at least until the return of more peaceful 
 times, either at Bethelsdorp or at the Cape. 
 Her attachment to the miserable Caffres, and 
 their country, which contains the bones of 
 her departed husband, was very great; and 
 perhaps Providence may open a way for her 
 return. 
 
 Pladge, who was my wagon driver during 
 my former journey, took his accustomed seat 
 before me on the wagon; and the same ox 
 that was on that journey always yoked on 
 the right of the pole, or shaft, was put in the 
 same position before me now. I thought 
 every particular hair or spot on its back was 
 familiar to my eye. Several other oxen, that 
 then travelled with me, now walked by the 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 181 
 
 side of the wagon, which deeply interested 
 me: all this was planned by the Hottentots 
 for my gratification; for I knew nothing of 
 it till it took place. 
 
 All went on well till after recrossing the 
 Kareeka River, when we were ascending a 
 steep hill, by some means, the strong leather 
 rope to which ten oxen were yoked, slipped 
 off the strong hook at the end of my wagon 
 pole; consequently the whole weight of the 
 wagon came upon the two oxen which were 
 yoked next to it. These, being unable to 
 support the weight, gave way, when, of 
 course, the wagon rolled backwards, down 
 the hill. During the struggle of the two 
 oxen, while the weight of the wagon was 
 dragging them downwards, the pole to which 
 they were fastened broke, or snapped in two, 
 so that we were on the eve of being hurled 
 with violence to the bottom of the declivity: 
 but the wagon soon turned off the road, at a 
 very rough part, into long grass, which so 
 impeded its progress that the Hottentots 
 stopped it, when all of us got out unhurt. 
 We lost an hour by the accident. 
 
 At four p. m. we halted at some water; 
 but it being too late for the party from The- 
 opolis to recross the woods on the Kareeka, 
 which are infested by Caffres, all resolved to 
 remain where they were, for mutual protec- 
 tion, till the next morning. 
 
 The number who assembled for worship 
 in the evening was forty-six; namely, ten 
 
182 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 armed Hottentots from Theopolis, eighteen 
 from the landdrost, Mrs. Williams, her two 
 children, and two Hottentot females, four 
 wagon drivers, and four oxen leaders, three 
 missionaries, and ourselves. 
 
 July 21. At daylight, when every thing 
 was ready, the whole assembled, when Mr. 
 Ulbricht offered up a prayer in the Dutch 
 language; after which we saluted each other, 
 and finally separated, to meet again no more. 
 Some tears were dropped, especially by the 
 Theopolis Hottentots. 
 
 We travelled till noon, when we halted 
 behind a clump of trees, where there was no 
 water. Thermometer 74. The Hottentots 
 are famous for their ability to distinguish 
 small objects at a distance. I had a very 
 good proof of it a short time after we were 
 in motion. Being on a plain, the ox leader 
 took his seat beside the driver, in front of the 
 wagon, immediately before me. He was a 
 lad about sixteen years of age. Turning 
 round to me, and pointing to a spot about a 
 mile off, “ There,” said he, “ our people have 
 shot a quacha; yes, it has fallen down dead!” 
 And sure enough, when we came opposite to 
 to spot, twenty-five minutes after, the people 
 brought the skin of the animal to the wagons; 
 but, when he announced it, I could perceive 
 neither quacha nor Hottentots. For some 
 miles, after it became nearly dark, we were 
 amused by multitudes of fire flies flitting 
 about on both sides of our wagons. Their 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 183 
 
 light resembled that of the glow worm: it is 
 only visible when their wings are extended, 
 which closing and opening of the light alter- 
 nately as they are moving along, makes an 
 amusing scene. We halted again on the 
 banks of the Bushman River. 
 
 We crossed the river next morning, and 
 reached the military post at eight a. m. We 
 breakfasted with Captain Willet. His house 
 stands within a fortification, which is cer- 
 tainly able to withstand any attack made by 
 wild Caffres. The minister of Uitenhagen 
 arrived on his way to Graham’s Town, to 
 accompany the commando, as chaplain, into 
 CafFraria. 
 
 Lieutenant M. commanded a fort with 
 about twenty men, at a little distance. He 
 went one morning at the head of a patrol, 
 consisting of himself and eight men. While 
 passing along a road through a wood, in an 
 instant a party of Caffres rushed out from it, 
 and, in a moment, killed seven of his men, 
 and also two others who were near, watch- 
 ing some cattle. He ran down a cliff, when, 
 at that moment, a single gun was fired from 
 the fort, the sound of which diverted the at- 
 tention of the Caffres from him and his cor- 
 poral, so that they had time to make their 
 escape. 
 
 We visited Mrs. , mother to the officer 
 
 who defended her in his small house from the 
 Caffres, and afterwards carried her off in tri- 
 umph, as already stated. 
 
184 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 We were able here to procure a new dis- 
 sel boom, or pole, for my wagon. After 
 thanking the officers for their very polite 
 attention, we departed. 
 
 In the morning, we found there was from 
 the top of Addo Hill a very extensive pros- 
 pect of the plain before us, which was entire- 
 ly covered with wood and bushes; also, the 
 mouth of the Zondag River, opposite to 
 which, in the sea, we observed a considera- 
 ble bank of sand, which we supposed was the 
 bar which completely blocks up the mouth, 
 and prevents the entrance of any ships. 
 
 We crossed the Zondag River, and halted 
 at Lieutenant A — ’s at noon. All the sol- 
 diers at this post were employed erecting a 
 regular fort, to oppose any attack from the 
 Caffres. 
 
 We got through a long narrow defile 
 before sunset; after which we travelled on 
 a plain till eight p. m., when we halted, be- 
 cause the succeeding part of the road was 
 too intricate to be passed over in so dark a 
 night. 
 
 Next morning, we moved before daylight 
 appeared. While going down a steep de- 
 scent, the main bolt of a wagon gave way, 
 to repair which detained us an hour. When 
 near Bethelsdorp, at four p. m., a company 
 of females met us, and walked alongside our 
 wagon, singing hymns, till we arrived at the 
 village: the journey to Theopolis having oc- 
 cupied eleven days. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 185 
 
 Having much missionary business still to 
 finish at Bethelsdorp, we were detained 
 there until the 4th of August. We had 
 expected to be able to travel from thence, 
 by the way of Graaf Reynet, up into the in- 
 terior of Africa, to visit the Griqua country, 
 Lattakoo, and other places; but all assured 
 us it would be impossible at present to travel 
 to Graaf Reynet, which was about two hun- 
 dred miles, the greater part of the road be- 
 ing infested by the Caffres. We then deter- 
 mined to consult the two gentlemen, who, 
 from their official situations, must be best 
 acquainted with the real state of the coun- 
 try, namely, Major Fraser, landdrost of Gra- 
 ham’s Town, and Colonel Cuyler, landdrost 
 of Uitenhagen. Both these gentlemen de- 
 clared it would be unsafe at present, advis- 
 ing us to postpone the journey till we should 
 see the result of the invasion of Caffreland 
 by the commando. The only other road by 
 which we could reach Graaf Reynet, was to 
 return to Pacaltsdorp, and cross a desert, 
 called the Karroo. This we resolved to do, 
 and for that purpose left Bethelsdorp on Au- 
 gust 4th. On the 5th, Mr. M. killed a cobra 
 capella serpent, having shot it at the very 
 moment it was making a spring at him. He 
 brought it to the wagons, and laying it on 
 the grass, we brought the baboon to it to see 
 how he would act. In consequence of the 
 long grass, he did not observe the creature 
 till he was close to it. The instant he saw 
 
186 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 it he gave a scream, and sprang from it in 
 the greatest consternation. No one could 
 force him to touch it. Several times he 
 leaped upon the person who held the cord 
 by which he was fastened, and clung to his 
 clothes. He seemed delighted when they 
 were leading him away from the serpent. 
 A leopard was mounted on a tree, near 
 where the serpent was killed, which was 
 about two hundred yards from the wagons; 
 he was watching the motions of an antelope 
 that was feeding at a little distance. 
 
 Piet Manuel, one of the deacons of the 
 church at Bethelsdorp, journeyed with us 
 what the Hottentots call half way, which is 
 one, or two, or more days’ journey, however 
 long the journey may be. We conversed 
 with him in the tent till after midnight. He 
 was born near the Four-and-twenty River, 
 and brought up without ever hearing of the 
 Saviour, till ten years ago, when, he said, 
 Providence brought him to Bethelsdorp. He 
 had been often at church with his master; 
 but, being a Hottentot, he was not permitted 
 to enter the door. He was employed in tak- 
 ing care of the horses. 
 
 He said his reason for following us now, 
 was to get something that would do him 
 good; for he had for some time experienced 
 less comfort in religion than he used to have; 
 he had neither so much love to Jesus Christ, 
 nor to his service, as formerly. He hoped 
 that, when Dr. P. came back to Bethelsdorp, 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 187 
 
 he should be able to speak to them in Dutch; 
 for he had many things he should like to 
 speak of, that he could not so well express 
 through an interpreter. 
 
 While at Bethelsdorp, one of our party 
 was anxious to marry a female Hottentot 
 there, who was a member of the church, but 
 she would not consent, because he was not 
 a baptized man, and from what turned out 
 afterwards respecting him, it was well she 
 did not marry him. 
 
 There is a green fly, very destructive to 
 grain in the colony. The farmers assert that 
 this green fly came with the English, when 
 they took the Cape from the Dutch. 
 
 We were fixed by rain to the spot we had 
 occupied during the night; as the day ad- 
 vanced the rain increased. Some of the Hot- 
 tentots remarked, that it rained in a similar 
 manner the last time a commando entered 
 Caffreland, which rendered their fire-arms al- 
 most useless. It is during rain that the Caf- 
 fres prefer making inroads into the colony. 
 
 August 8. About three o’clock in the 
 morning, some of our Hottentots were en- 
 gaged in prayer and singing hymns. Dr. 
 P. hearing this, and it being moonlight, 
 thought it was time to get up; he therefore 
 dressed, and came down from his wagon. 
 On looking at his watch, he was rather sur- 
 prised to find the hands pointing to three 
 o’clock in the morning. The Hottentots 
 generally sleep near the fire, and with their 
 
188 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 feet towards it. When one of them awakes, 
 he is accustomed to smoke a little; the smell 
 and noise awakens others, who immediately 
 join him in smoking ; after which they gene- 
 rally unite in worship for a little, and then 
 go to sleep again. 
 
 August 11. We took advantage of the 
 morning moonlight, by departing, at five 
 a. m., and had a three hours’ scoff, or stage. 
 Some neighbouring Hottentots brought us 
 both milk and butter. I tried our baboon 
 with some pea-shells, containing thirteen 
 peas each, taken from a low bush, having a 
 flower resembling the ordinary pea-bloom; 
 he took out a single pea, bit off a small piece 
 of it, chewed it a little; after which he threw 
 shell and peas away in the most careless and 
 indifferent manner, not once afterwards look- 
 ing towards them. 
 
 Having plucked a branch from a tree 
 bearing brown berries, I gave it to the ba- 
 boon as our taster; he eagerly seized the 
 bough, and put a berry into his mouth, but 
 he ate only the stone of it, which was large 
 in proportion to the fruit, and he appeared 
 to eat it with a relish. When he had con- 
 sumed all the berries on the branch, he threw 
 it away, significantly looking to us for an- 
 other. When he is eating a piece of bread, 
 some of the dogs generally stand near him, 
 anxiously wishing to possess it, but none 
 venture to snatch it from him; however, he 
 deigns sometimes to break off a piece and 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 189 
 
 throw it to them, with a supercilious air, as 
 if he really reckoned them very inferior be- 
 ings to himself. They take it as if regards 
 less from whom bread comes, if it only comes 
 to them. When the wagon happens to have 
 a severe jolt by coming against a stone, he 
 sometimes tumbles off, but such is his agility, 
 that he will regain his position in a moment. 
 
 While halting, a Damara man passed, un- 
 der guard of a lad on horseback. He had 
 deserted from the commando against the 
 Caffres, and was on his way back to it. He 
 had been different times on the frontier of 
 Caffreland, and had been at our missionary 
 station at Theopolis, where, he said, they 
 taught Jesus Christ to blind men. 
 
 Left Mr. Gritsinger’s place at three p. m., 
 crossed the river, which is wide, and to 
 strangers intricate. Soon after, we saw an 
 exceedingly dark cloud clinging to a moun- 
 tain, a few miles before us, from which 
 flashes of lightning frequently issued, at- 
 tended with peals of thunder. On coming 
 opposite to this mountain, the rain seemed 
 to fall upon us as sheets of water, which 
 immediately obliged us to halt. The poor 
 Hottentots were soon drenched; with great 
 expedition they set up our tents, and dug 
 trenches outside, opposite the rise of the hill, 
 to prevent the rivers of waters that descend- 
 ed from passing through, or across the tents. 
 By kindling fires in the middle of each tent, 
 they dried what might be called the floor of 
 17 
 
190 PACAT.TSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 the tent, and likewise their own clothes, as 
 well as they could. The rolling thunder 
 seemed to pass very near us; two or three 
 claps, which I heard before I fell asleep in 
 the wagon, were truly tremendous. How- 
 ever, the Hottentots got a large fire kindled 
 outside the tents, at which they cooked their 
 supper. 
 
 August 13. The rain subsided during the 
 night, so that by eleven a. m. things were 
 again tolerably dry. We passed an orange 
 grove, which appeared beautiful after the 
 gloom of the preceding night. The trees 
 were loaded with oranges, and the sun shin- 
 ing brightly upon them, added greatly to 
 their beauty. We had a good supply of 
 oranges from them for a few pence. 
 
 On reaching Radamere River, we found, 
 though small at ordinary times, that it now 
 reached in depth to the shoulders of two 
 Hottentots, who waded in to try its depth. 
 This rendered it necessary either to halt till 
 it subsided, or to raise all our chests, provi- 
 sions, and packages, at least twelve or thir- 
 teen inches above the bottoms of the wagons, 
 which was no easy undertaking. However, 
 we preferred this labour to waiting for an 
 indefinite period. This being accomplished, 
 we got over without damage. 
 
 The poor baboon, who happened to be 
 tied to a board suspended under the end of 
 my wagon, designed for carrying pots, stools, 
 and other articles, afforded sport to those 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 191 
 
 who could observe him from behind. Being 
 thirsty, he appeared glad when the wagon 
 entered the river, and put down his head to 
 drink; but the water speedily gaining upon 
 him, with great emotion he mounted above 
 a pot, then retired backward to the furthest 
 end of the board which was suspended close 
 to the bottom of the wagon. Here he was 
 completely immersed under the water ; from 
 this, however, he found means to extricate 
 himself, by scrambling up the side of the 
 wagon, beyond the reach of the water. 
 
 We came, at nine p. m., to a river at Fer- 
 rara’s place, which was so much increased 
 by the rains as to be impassable: this obliged 
 us to halt during the night on its bank. At 
 daylight, in the morning, we found the wa- 
 ter had fallen, so that by eight a. m. we 
 safely got across. At eleven, we crossed a 
 wide and deep river, or rather a considera- 
 ble pool, formed by a small river, which 
 reached the bottoms of the wagons. 
 
 In the evening, though the heavens were 
 covered by dense clouds, we had sufficient 
 light for travelling, from the burning of 
 bushes on the hills near Martin Zondag’s 
 place. The burning had much the appear- 
 ance of long streets during an illumination. 
 At ten p. m. we again reached Zondag place, 
 which is the highest part of the Long Kloof, 
 and the air felt piercing cold. For a great 
 part of the journey, our Hottentots preferred 
 sleeping in the open air, with their feet point- 
 
192 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 ing to the fire, to sleeping in the tents; but 
 now they contend for them. They held a 
 jury on Friday evening, on a Hottentot who 
 had never assisted in putting up the tents. 
 They condemned him to be put out of the 
 tent, as there was not room for them all, and 
 that he should sleep in the luggage wagon. 
 This, to an European, would have been like 
 condemning him to be fined fifty pounds, 
 and obliging him to receive a hundred 
 pounds; but there are many things highly 
 valued in civilized life, which Hottentots, 
 through ignorance and inexperience, despise. 
 The African nations feel no inconvenience 
 from having neither clocks nor watches, but 
 let them enjoy them for a few years, and 
 they will value them as highly as we do. 
 At present, the sun to them answers all the 
 purposes of clocks and watches. If they in- 
 tend to meet at ten, or twelve, or two o’clock, 
 they point to the part of the heaven where 
 the sun will then be, and from habit they 
 will meet almost to a minute. I have seen 
 the truth of this fully verified, even a thou- 
 sand miles higher up the country. 
 
 August 15. Sabbath. Mr. Moffat preached 
 in Dutch to Mr. S — ’s family and slaves, and 
 all our people. The congregation amounted 
 to forty, a large number in such a wilderness. 
 Mr. S. has long been a real friend to Hotten- 
 tots and missionaries; he still retains a great 
 regard for an old Hottentot woman, who now 
 lives at Bethelsdorp, who nursed him when 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 193 
 
 a child. Such was his confidence in her in- 
 tegrity, that he intrusted to her a thousand 
 rix dollars, to pay a debt he owed at Uiten- 
 hagen. 
 
 August IS. Wednesday. This is the fifth 
 day we have been detained, by rain, at Mar- 
 tin Zondag’s place; and though it is the prin- 
 cipal road in the colony, only two persons 
 have passed us in all that time, namely, a 
 slave and a farmer. A drying wind having 
 blown during the night, encouraged us to 
 proceed on our journey, at two p. m., when 
 we were all glad to find ourselves again in 
 motion. We had sufficient light to get down 
 a long rough descent, and over the river op- 
 posite Barkhouse; but near to another farm- 
 house we came to a plain, which a river 
 crossed among rushes, forming considerable 
 pools on the road. In crossing the largest of 
 these, two of the wagons got safely through; 
 but the third was overturned, falling flat on 
 its side into the water. By starlight, we 
 could perceive only the side of the roof of the 
 wagon lying out of the water; we dreaded 
 lest those in the wagon should be drowned; 
 we could not distinguish any person near it. 
 But only one had been in it, and he scrambled 
 out well drenched. Many things were soon 
 seen floating about on the surface of the wa- 
 ter. All our people having instantly run to 
 the place, they collected as many of the things 
 as they could find in the dark. At length, 
 every thing was got out of the wagon, and 
 
194 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 brought to the side of the river; after which, 
 with great exertion, they raised the wagon 
 on its wheels. Though all their clothes were 
 soaked with water, the Hottentots minded it 
 little, which, from the coldness of the night, 
 rather surprised me. The drying of the 
 things in the wagon, from the darkness, and 
 from the coldness of the wind, and from our 
 own wet state, we were obliged to put off 
 until the morning. 
 
 On inquiring, in the morning, into the 
 cause of the disaster, we found it had been 
 owing to the lad who led the oxen yoked to 
 that wagon, who preferred walking on the 
 bank to wading in the cold river, and conse- 
 quently brought the wagon too near the side, 
 and upon a spot which so raised the wagon 
 on one side, as to make it lose its balance and 
 fall over on the other, so that our loss and 
 inconvenience was to save a young Hotten- 
 tot walking a few yards in water. The day 
 was a busy one, in drying the wet articles, 
 repairing the wagon, and repacking, until 
 two p. m., when we again went forward, and 
 continued to find that streams, which were 
 mere brooks when we went up the country, 
 were now become wide and powerful rivers. 
 
 August 21. We commenced the ascent 
 of Cradock Mountain by seven in the morn- 
 ing. A few hundred yards from the summit 
 is a cliff called Hat Cliff, so called from a 
 trifling occurrence which took place while the 
 road was making, namely, a whirlwind car- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 195 
 
 rying into the air the hats of the two super- 
 intendents, which were not afterwards found. 
 The making of this road over the mountain 
 cost fourteen thousand rix-dollars; and the 
 keeping it in repair is an annual expense 
 of twelve hundred rix-dollars. We safely- 
 reached the bottom on the other side at one 
 p. m., where we halted to breakfast and din- 
 ner; having taken exactly six hours to pass it. 
 
 We began our last stage to Pacaltsdorp, 
 at three o’clock. On coming to a river, we 
 found the descent to it was down a solid steep 
 rock for about fifteen feet. The first wagon 
 that we ventured down tumbled over on its 
 side, a circumstance which made us all pause 
 before we would risk another wagon. After 
 getting the fallen wagon upon its wheels 
 again, the other wagons, by great caution, 
 were got down without a fall. The rest of 
 the road was smooth until our arrival at Pa- 
 caltsdorp, about five o’clock in the evening. 
 
 After remaining two days in Pacaltsdorp, 
 settling some missionary concerns, Dr. Philip 
 set off for Cape Town, to attend to a multi- 
 plicity of matters belonging to the society, 
 which required his personal presence. But 
 I wished to remain here till our way into the 
 interior of the country should be opened to 
 us, doing all the good I could during my stay. 
 A few events which occurred, and some in- 
 formation which I occasionally picked up 
 while I resided in Pacaltsdorp, will be ail 
 that I shall extract from my journal. 
 
196 PACALTSDORP AND BEl'HELSDORP. 
 
 The following fact concerning the young 
 Hottentot lad who teaches the school may 
 not be uninteresting. Mr. M., the missionary 
 at the station, was accustomed to supply him 
 with ink for the use of the scholars who were 
 learning to write. The missionary noticed 
 that he had not applied for ink for a consi- 
 derable time, yet he seemed always to have 
 plenty of the article. On inquiry how it was 
 that he did not now require ink for the chil- 
 dren, he said that by boiling a certain root, 
 he got as much ink as he wanted. In this 
 way the school has been supplied with ink 
 ever since; it showed a spirit of inquiry. 
 
 During my stay, I resided in the house 
 that had been occupied by Mr. Pacalt, the 
 worthy missionary who commenced this 
 prosperous missionary station, but died when 
 he had brought it nearly to maturity. It 
 consisted only of one apartment, measuring 
 twelve feet by ten ; the walls were composed 
 of reeds plastered with clay outside and 
 within; and it had a thatched roof. This 
 was his first house, in which he continued 
 to reside, till his original projects regarding 
 the grounds were nearly realized, when he 
 built himself a larger dwelling in which the 
 missionary now resides. 
 
 During my first Sabbath at this place, the 
 rain descended in such tropical abundance, 
 that by evening the church was surrounded 
 by deep pools of water, and the congrega- 
 tion were prevented from assembling in it 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 197 
 
 for public worship, a circumstance which 
 had not happened before. 
 
 I employed part of my time in writing a 
 kind of catechism for the young people, con- 
 taining general information concerning the 
 creation, and other events in Bible history, 
 which the missionary afterwards translated 
 into the Dutch language for the use of the 
 school. 
 
 A man, who had resided some time in the 
 Wild Bushman country, said he had known 
 quachas, baboons, springboks, and other an- 
 imals, when chased by lions, leopards, or 
 wolves, run to man for protection. 
 
 An order came one evening, from the land- 
 drost of George, requiring two drivers of 
 wagons, and two leaders of oxen. A Hot- 
 tentot was sent for, and told that on Monday 
 morning he was required to go to the Cape, 
 to bring the new landdrost to George. I was 
 astonished at the apathy with which he re- 
 ceived the information; for though it was a 
 month’s journey, he took it with the same 
 coolness as if he had only been asked to drive 
 away the flies from the window. He sim- 
 ply said, “Very well, sir,” and walked out. 
 On expressing my surprise to Mr. Moffat, he 
 said, I should have seen the same appa- 
 rent indifference had he been required to set 
 off in half an hour; “the man has nothing to 
 make ready, his body is all he has to carry 
 or care about.” 
 
 There is a worm here similar to the com- 
 
 18 
 
198 PACALTSDORP AND BETHEESDORP. 
 
 moti worm in England, only that in the dark, 
 especially after rain, the whole body shines 
 like the luminous part of the glow worm; 
 and when it moves among the grass, it leaves 
 a kind of slime in its track behind, which 
 shines, for a time, with as much lustre as its 
 own body.* 
 
 One evening a catastrophe happened which 
 excited general lamentation. While tolling 
 the bell to call the people to evening wor- 
 ship, all at once the sound became dull like 
 striking a pewter plate with a stick. The 
 hell was spoiled; the loss was not merely the 
 expense; but two years must elapse before 
 they could get one from England to replace 
 it. Few think of the convenience of having 
 in England, at hand, stores of every thing 
 that they need. In England, the loss of a 
 hell, that could be replaced in a day or two, 
 at the expense of two or three guineas, would 
 never excite general grief in a town or large 
 village. It is far otherwise in many distant 
 parts of the world. At Berne’s village, in 
 the Griqua country, about the middle of 
 ploughing season, the ploughshare of their 
 only plough snapped in two, which could 
 not be replaced without a journey to and 
 from the Cape, a distance of fourteen hun- 
 dred miles, consequently the sowing time 
 would be passed before they could possibly 
 
 * The luminousness of the earthworm in South Africa 
 is a very interesting fact, which has been noticed by 
 others. — Ed. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 199 
 
 return. The people were greatly alarmed, 
 lest this untoward circumstance should pro- 
 duce a famine ere the return of another seed 
 time and harvest. 
 
 Two young female Hottentots called one 
 afternoon, expressing a desire to go to Eng- 
 land; but they could not tell what they 
 should do for their support, when they should 
 arrive there. They could both read and 
 write. I told them that England was a 
 country very far distant, and that it was very 
 difficult to get to it, and the people were very 
 industrious. They said they should like to 
 live in the country from which so many good 
 ministers came. 
 
 A hungry hyena is accustomed to visit the 
 settlement, almost every night, in search of 
 cattle or sheep, but without success. He 
 has not cunning enough to be silent, but soon 
 announces his arrival, and from time to time 
 intimates his continuance, by repeating his 
 melancholy howl. The dogs wisely keep at 
 a proper distance from him ; but when they 
 hear him, all instantly turn out, and unitedly 
 make a hideous noise by their barking: their 
 rage does not appear to intimidate him, for 
 he continues to let it be known where he 
 is, by repeating his howl, which is audible 
 above all their noise. 
 
 Dr. Macrill, from George, visited the set- 
 tlement one day, with Mr. Mont, a Prussian, 
 who was making botanical researches in the 
 colony. He advised me not to drink from 
 
200 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 the spring on the ground, which was stand- 
 ing water, for it had killed one person, whom 
 he mentioned; and that Mr. R., the neigh- 
 bouring farmer, had then twelve of his fami- 
 ly ill with typhus fever, in consequence of 
 drinking similar water. He said, if such 
 water must be used, let it first be boiled, then 
 it would do no harm; but if running water 
 could be obtained, it should be preferred, for 
 all pools are hurtful. We thanked him for 
 the information, which I wrote down , as it 
 should be attended to in other countries as 
 well as Africa. 
 
 The Hottentot children observing me pick- 
 ing up flowers and examining them, and 
 sometimes taking a drawing of them, be- 
 gan to bring me large bunches of flowers, 
 generally only of one or two sorts which 
 struck their own fancy. I found the scent of 
 such as did not open till towards evening 
 so strong that I could not remain in the room 
 with them, which obliged me to throw them 
 out of doors. 
 
 There seems to be no distinctions of rank 
 as yet among Hottentots; all are on a level: 
 some dress better than others, some have a 
 wagon and more oxen than others; yet these 
 diversities of property make no difference in 
 rank; no one will attend to the counsel or 
 command of another. Were the missionary 
 to leave Pacaltsdorp, while this state of soci- 
 ety lasts, every thing would go to ruin. This 
 was nearly the case between the death of 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETIIELSDORP. 201 
 
 Mr. Pacalt and the arrival of his successor, a 
 period of four months only. During that 
 time, every thing was rapidly running to 
 ruin ; no one took the lead in any thing. 
 The men were sauntering about with hands 
 clasped behind their backs; sometimes lean- 
 ing against one part of the wall, sometimes 
 against another; sometimes staring at one 
 breach the rains had made, and sometimes 
 at another without once trying or even pro- 
 posing to repair them: they literally were 
 like sheep without a shepherd, standing still 
 and looking about with unmeaning stare. 
 On the arrival of the missionary, the popula- 
 tion appeared like persons instantaneously 
 awakened from a dream; all became life and 
 bustle, only requiring to be told where to 
 apply their energies. I often attended on the 
 Mondays, which were devoted to carrying 
 on the public works from sunrise to sunset; 
 all were then so active and so cheerful, that 
 the sight was fitted to remove gloom from 
 the most depressed mind. 
 
 There is a sort of small bird, named Quick- 
 tail, a species of our Wagtail, which is very 
 familiar. Generally some of them are seen 
 near the mouth of a horse while he is gra- 
 zing, picking up worms and reptiles, which 
 he disturbs by the operation. They act in 
 the same manner when a person is digging 
 the ground, keeping generally within a 
 yard of him. They frequently picked about 
 my door, sometimes venturing in, and even 
 
202 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 searching for food under the table at which 
 I was reading. This confidence which they 
 place in man makes man their friend; on 
 that very acount he will not injure them. 
 
 Two or three Hottentot lads, who were to 
 be my oxen leaders in the journey to Latta- 
 koo, when speaking of that journey to the 
 people of Pacaltsdorp, told them, by way of 
 boasting, that they were engaged to defend 
 Mr. Campbell from lions and other beasts of 
 prey; though I was told that should one of 
 those animals appear, they would be the 
 very first to flee, which turned out to be the 
 true state of the case; for afterwards, when 
 on the eve of entering a thicket, the strongest 
 of them was leading the oxen of my wagon, 
 and led them first to one side, then to the 
 other, as we were advancing to the opening 
 in the thicket. On asking my driver the 
 cause of that strange way of leading, “ Oh,” 
 said he, “ he is so frightened lest he should 
 meet a lion, that I see the very hairs stand- 
 ing up on his head,” which he concluded 
 with a hearty Hottentot laugh. I heard no 
 more of this lad’s boasting. 
 
 As Mr. Messer was ascending Cradock 
 Mountain with his wagon, when coming as 
 a missionary to settle at Pacaltsdorp, his oxen 
 made a dead halt about half way from the 
 top. No method which they tried could pre- 
 vail upon them to move a step higher. Hap- 
 pily, an intelligent Hottentot was passing, 
 attending a gentleman. The Hottentot took 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 203 
 
 out all the oxen from the wagon, and drove 
 them in the yoke a considerable way up the 
 mountain, which revived their spirits. He 
 then drove them down and fastened them 
 again to the wagon. “Now,” said he, “they 
 will take up your wagon;” and after that 
 they did drag it up with great ease. 
 
 I met with an old soldier at a toll-house, 
 who was a native of Poland, of that part of 
 it bordering on the Turkish empire. He left 
 his home about forty years before, and never 
 had heard from his relations since he left 
 them, except from some recruits that came 
 from his native place to the English service. 
 He seemed to be a citizen of the world, 
 having no attachment to any particular place, 
 being only desirous to obtain his daily sus- 
 tenance. He was working as a mason, build- 
 ing a small house. 
 
 Another person, who was assisting to re- 
 pair the road over Cradock Mountain, was 
 born in Ireland, and brought up in Denmark. 
 He left home about twenty-five years before, 
 traded five years between Cork and London, 
 was also fifteen years a seaman in the Bri- 
 tish navy, had never heard from home since 
 he left it, and appeared to have no anxiety 
 to hear. Like the other, he seemed satisfied 
 if he only obtained daily bread. Both these 
 men seemed to care for nobody, and it seems 
 very probable that nobody cares for them; 
 and when they die, they will have none to 
 regret their death. They were both utterly 
 
204 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 ignorant of Divine truth. Such characters 
 are common abroad: they seem stragglers, 
 or outcasts from society; and yet so stupid 
 and hardened are they, that they do not seem 
 to feel their situation. 
 
 The grass of Pacaltsdorp grounds being 
 chiefly what is called sour, is very destruc- 
 tive to the cattle and sheep, at certain seasons 
 of the year. Dr. Philip and I thought that if 
 a place in the Karroo could be got for a few 
 hundred rix-dollars, the society would have 
 no objection to allow apart of the money left 
 by Mr. Pacalt to be appropriated to so im- 
 portant a purpose; that the people might 
 send their cattle to it at those destructive 
 times of the year. 
 
 Hearing that Mr. R., a neighbouring far- 
 mer, had such a place in the Karroo to be 
 disposed of, Mr. Messer and I went to ex- 
 amine it. We left Pacaltsdorp on horseback, 
 on a lovely morning, so early as to commence 
 ascending Cradock Mountain before nine 
 o’clock. We found the road greatly injured 
 by the late heavy rains, much of the mould 
 being washed away, and man}'- troublesome 
 stones left strewed over the path; but go- 
 vernment had wisely ordered a thorough re- 
 pair. About twelve Hottentots had left Pa- 
 caltsdorp, before sunrise that morning, to 
 assist in the work: we passed them a little 
 way up the mountain, sitting at the side of 
 the road smoking their pipes, away from all 
 the world, and evidently enjoying their rest. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 205 
 
 A Hottentot, who accompanied us, in or- 
 der to assist us in judging of the fitness of the 
 land for the intended purpose, told us that 
 once he had been a great drunkard, but hav- 
 ing one night dreamed that he saw flames 
 of fire proceeding from his mouth, in conse- 
 quence of his drinking so much spirits, he was 
 so shocked at the sight of himself, that he had 
 never allowed himself to taste any since. 
 
 Left the foot of Cradock Mountain at one 
 p. m., after resting our horses, and allowing 
 them to eat what they could find. Instead 
 of turning to the right, or east, up the Long 
 Kloof, a road we well knew, we turned to 
 the left, and travelled s. w., on a road with 
 which none of us were acquainted, and pass- 
 ed Canver’s farm, at the entrance of a long 
 valley, where we obtained some information 
 respecting the place of our destination. The 
 valley along which we travelled was seldom 
 more than two miles in breadth, bounded by 
 high hills on both sides; those on the one 
 side were tolerably covered with verdure; 
 but those on the other, being constantly ex- 
 posed to the scorching rays of the sun, pre- 
 sented nothing but cliff’s and scattered stones. 
 
 After two hours’ ride, the valley ended, 
 when the path turned in a western direction, 
 frequently over rocks. At five, p. m. we 
 passed a farm house; but being separated 
 from it by a river and marshy ground, we 
 could make no inquiry: we knew it was not 
 the place we were in search of. We were 
 
206 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 afraid lest the sun should set before we 
 reached the boor’s place, where we expected 
 lodging for the night, being uncertain how 
 far we had to travel; and nothing around 
 wearing the least appearance of a human 
 being ever having been there, except the 
 rough path on which we trod. At length, 
 about six o’clock in the evening, we espied a 
 small house, perched on the summit of a 
 rocky part of a hill, which happily proved to 
 be the place we were in search of. On ap- 
 proaching the house, some dogs rushed out 
 towards us, with the fury of tigers, to pre- 
 vent our advance. They could not be paci- 
 fied till their master came out, and com- 
 manded silence. He said, now that we had 
 been once received on his place, they would 
 trouble us no more; which indeed was the 
 case, for from the moment we were welcomed 
 by their master, they treated us as friends. 
 
 The family who dwelt in this solitary cor- 
 ner of the earth, were Mr. and Mrs. Oosthui- 
 zen, five children, and two slaves. The cattle, 
 sheep, and goats were coming home for the 
 night, which greatly enlivened the scene. All 
 the ground around was what they call kar- 
 roo, only bushes here and there, without a 
 blade of grass between, nothing but gravel 
 and clay. The cattle, therefore, must live 
 entirely upon the bushes, if all the ground be 
 in the same state; yet they appeared fat and 
 healthy. Noticing several large shells of the 
 land-tortoise lying about, they told us they 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 207 
 
 were plentiful around, and that they some- 
 times find fifty eggs in a single tortoise. The 
 hill on which the house stands was chiefly 
 composed of slate rocks, intermixed with a 
 little soil, from which bushes of various kinds 
 proceed. At the foot of the hill, a small 
 river, called Klip, or stone river, glides gently 
 along. About thirty yards along its side is 
 a strip of garden ground, where lettuce and 
 a few other things grow. Immediately on 
 the other side of the river, rises a hill covered 
 with bushes. A little way up the river is a 
 narrow pass between perpendicular cliffs; 
 and in the distance is seen a range of very 
 elevated mountains, parallel with which runs 
 the Elephant’s River. 
 
 The two eldest daughters were about thir- 
 teen and fourteen years of age, clever, and 
 great helps to their mother. We could not 
 help regretting the impossibility of their ob- 
 taining education in such a wilderness. They 
 kindly and quickly made up a good bed for 
 us after supper, which was enjoyed most 
 gratefully, after the fatigues of the day. 
 
 We rose next morning about five o’clock, 
 had an early breakfast, after which Mr. Oos- 
 thuizen kindly lent us three horses, to go with 
 him to view the ground that was to be dis- 
 posed of; and sent forward his slave with our 
 horses to halt at a part of the road where we 
 should meet them. 
 
 At seven a. m. we took leave of the family, 
 descended the steep to the river, which we 
 
208 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 crossed. He told us that sometimes he had 
 caught eels in it as thick as his leg; which 
 proves there must be water in it the whole 
 year, either running or in pools, like some 
 rivers in the Wild Bushman country, which 
 are invaluable in such a dry part of Africa 
 as the karroo. We then travelled among 
 bushes, separated a yard or two from each 
 other. In the intervening ground not a weed 
 or a blade of grass was visible ; nothing but 
 red earth, and hard, as if it had been pressed 
 by a ponderous roller, which is universally 
 the appearance of all the ground there denomi- 
 nated karroo. This karroo plain is of great ex- 
 tent, reaching perhaps two hundred miles, in a 
 n. e. direction; and it is known to be five or 
 six days’ journey in ox wagons across it, in 
 a n. w. direction. 
 
 Our guide, Mr. Oosthuizen, searched for 
 some time before he could find the fountain, 
 which is the only one known to be on the 
 cattle farm to be disposed of. When I saw 
 it, I was surprised he could find it out at all, 
 in such an extent of ground, all alike grown 
 over with bushes; for it was not larger than 
 a common pot, and covered with two flat 
 stones. It hardly contained a gallon of water; 
 but, from the dampness of the ground around 
 it, Mr. Oosthuizen thought much more water 
 might be procured by digging the well deeper, 
 for then it was not above two feet deep, and 
 eighteen inches diameter. Much water would 
 not be requisite, as seldom more than two 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 209 
 
 families would reside on it, and the cattle 
 could drink at either of the rivers which 
 bound the ground. This well being about 
 the centre, would make it a convenient place 
 for the residence of the herdsmen. 
 
 The ground is thought to contain about six 
 thousand acres. We found in some places 
 what is called elephant’s grass, from the 
 height and strength of its stalk; it does not 
 grow thick, but only in separate tufts. There 
 are abundance of fine stones, sufficient to 
 build a city. 
 
 Much rain had evidently fallen there at 
 the time we had so much at Pacaltsdorp, but 
 from the hardness of the ground, probably 
 most of it had run off. The kind of bushes 
 which the cattle are fond of are very plenti- 
 ful on the place, and also some corn land near 
 the river. Our Hottentot, whom we took to 
 assist us in judging of it, thought it would 
 answer our design ; though Mr. Moffat and 
 I entertained great doubts upon that point. 
 
 At nine a. m. we came to that part of the 
 road where our horses were waiting for us; 
 taking leave of our friendly host, we pro- 
 ceeded on our journey home. The day was 
 fine, and the road in general smooth, except 
 at three places, where we had to dismount 
 and lead our horses over the rocks, until we 
 came to the foot of Cradock Mountain; hav- 
 ing escaped the roughest parts by viewing 
 the grounds. 
 
 At noon, we halted at C.’s place, where 
 
210 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 we met an Englishman from Shropshire, a 
 carpenter, who had been employed for several 
 years by the farmers in the Long Kloof. I 
 saw a wagon, nearly finished, intended for 
 the farmer’s son, who was on the eve of 
 marriage: it was the handsomest I had seen 
 in Africa; both the wood and iron work had 
 been executed by a slave, who was a re- 
 markably skilful man, being both a good 
 carpenter and a good smith. The family ac- 
 commodated us with a dinner. 
 
 At two p. m. we reached the foot of Cra- 
 doclc Mountain. We passed the party of 
 Hottentots who were busy repairing the road 
 damaged by the late rains : their conduct was 
 commended to us by the overseer of the 
 work. When near the top, we entered a 
 cloud, and continued in it till we had descend- 
 ed for about twenty minutes. At half-past 
 four o’clock, we reached the bottom, com- 
 pletely exhausted, and arrived at Pacaitsdorp 
 at six, hungry as well as tired. 
 
 The people told me that, in this part of the 
 colony, it is considered disgraceful to walk 
 even to the distance of a mile or two on foot; 
 that only Hottentots and slaves walk; so that 
 if a person cannot get a horse, he considers 
 it a sufficient reason for not keeping an en- 
 gagement, or accepting an invitation. It is 
 also unfashionable for white persons, or 
 Christian people, as the whites are called, to 
 carry a child beyond the threshold of the door. 
 
 Across the grounds belonging to Pacalts- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 211 
 
 dorp there runs from the Cradock range of 
 mountain a small river, which, for about two 
 miles before entering the Indian Ocean, has 
 a hill on each side, completely covered with 
 what seemed to be considered impenetrable 
 wood. As I could not hear of one person 
 who had ever seen the mouth of the river, 
 Mr. C. consented to accompany me in at- 
 tempting to explore it. We took with us 
 Jamager, a Hottentot, carrying a musket, lest 
 we should happen to meet with wild beasts, 
 secreted among the brushwood. Such was 
 the thickness of the undergrowth, that we 
 could only proceed at the rate of about half 
 a mile an hour. We found a very interest- 
 ing waterfall, descending between two cliffs, 
 which has three falls immediately succeeding 
 each other; the whole may measure about 
 fifty feet. We heard the sound of it while 
 squeezing ourselves through the underwood, 
 which induced us to move in the direction of 
 the sound. We had to cut our way to the 
 waterfall. As there was no path to it, we 
 fancied we were the first human beings who 
 had seen it; and I must confess that this sup- 
 position made me vieAv it with a kind of so- 
 lemn interest. I thought of its having made 
 this very lovely exhibition for perhaps many 
 centuries, without one to witness it who could 
 admire its beauty. The sides were lofty, and 
 a hanging wood in front of it, where the 
 river immediately after its fall took a turn to 
 the left, changed the glare of the sun into a 
 
212 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 kind of twilight, adding to the interesting ap- 
 pearance of the scenery. The only creature 
 we saw near the fall, was a pretty light green 
 serpent, swimming in the river. Being un- 
 able to proceed further down the river, with- 
 out pushing through the wood at a new place, 
 and sunset approaching, we retraced our 
 steps in the path by which we had come to it. 
 
 On another occasion, we went to explore 
 the mouth of the river. On reaching the 
 cliff which bounds the ocean, we searched 
 for some path by which we might descend to 
 the river; at length we found one that was 
 not a perpendicular cliff, where, by pressing 
 through underwood, and cautiously moving 
 over rocks, we descended about three hundred 
 feet, when we came to the river, and wit- 
 nessed its entrance into the Indian Ocean. 
 At the moment a tremendous surf perpetually 
 dashed against rocks which lay in the middle 
 of the opening by which it entered, and 
 equally so against the cliffs on both sides of 
 the entrance, making such a noise that, with- 
 out bawling, we could not hear the sound of 
 each other’s voices. To look towards the 
 raging billows filled the mind with solemn 
 awe, and then upwards to the towering, 
 rocky, rugged cliffs, deepened the impression. 
 The thought also that all this turmoil had 
 been going on for thousands of years, night 
 and day, made me view it with increasing 
 interest; for there is constantly a high surge 
 at the margin of the Indian Ocean. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 213 
 
 On our first reaching the river, we were 
 startled to observe on the sand the footmarks 
 of wild beasts. This made us move with 
 caution along the river. On ascending the 
 river again, our dog was the first to discover 
 the entrance to the path by which we had 
 descended the thicket, by his bouncing into 
 it: we followed his example; when, after 
 scrambling up about half an hour, we clear- 
 ed it. 
 
 Finding it necessary, on various accounts, 
 to return to the Cape, I left Pacaltsdorp on 
 the 25t’n of October, along with Mr. Messer. 
 
 Many of the young people as well as the 
 old came to take leave; among the rest old 
 Simeon, who expressed his earnest wish that 
 Jesus might hold up his hands over us by 
 the way. We departed at five p. m. and 
 travelled until nine, when we halted at the 
 side of a river, where the ford is strewed 
 with large stones, which prevented our at- 
 tempting to cross it in the night. 
 
 Next day we reached the Brak River by 
 ten a. m., but the tide being up, it was too 
 full to cross, so we halted till the tide should 
 retire. At one p. m., finding the river had 
 fallen two feet, we crossed without any ac- 
 cident, and, on crossing two branches of the 
 Little Brak River, we halted at nine in the 
 evening, passing some pools containing in- 
 numerable frogs, emitting a sound resem- 
 bling many bagpipes. Providence has given 
 those animals in Africa amazing powers of 
 19 
 
214 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 voice, which is often very useful to travel- 
 lers, thereby intimating to them, in the dark, 
 where water may be had. 
 
 October 27. I was awakened early in the 
 morning, by the noise of torrents of rain 
 pouring down upon the roof and dashing 
 against the sides of the wagon, and the hea- 
 vens seemed to indicate a continuance of wet 
 weather. Our position was not a pleasant 
 one to be stopped in ; for neither house nor 
 any cultivation was visible among the sur- 
 rounding hills. However, our fears were 
 soon removed ; for by nine a. m. the clouds 
 began to disperse, so that by eleven we were 
 able to proceed forward to a pool of water, 
 at which we halted, where we found a farmer, 
 who, the day before, had lost his two fore or 
 leading oxen, when crossing the Brak River. 
 His impatience prevented his waiting till the 
 tide retired, which led him to attempt get- 
 ting over a little higher up the river than the 
 ordinary ford; this cost him two valuable 
 oxen that he could ill spare, being poor. 
 He was carrying timber to dispose of at the 
 Cape. 
 
 October 2S. We got safely across the riv- 
 er, which at the ford appeared at that time to 
 be deep, and about one hundred yards wide. 
 We halted for the night in a solitary valley. 
 A Hottentot boy, about twelve years of age, 
 who led the oxen of one of the wagons, was 
 fast asleep on the grass, in two or three 
 minutes after we halted. I have often thought 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 215 
 
 that Hottentots could sleep as easily as dogs: 
 they seem only to have to shut their eyes, 
 and they are fast asleep. The soldiers in the 
 Hottentot regiment were said, by an officer, 
 often to have been found asleep while on 
 guard. The person to whom the officer 
 stated this, remarked that he understood that, 
 by the articles of war, it was death to be 
 found sleeping. “Yes,” said he; but were 
 we to shoot all the Hottentot soldiers we find 
 asleep on guard, then we should shoot the 
 whole regiment; and, after that, what would 
 be the use of officers ?” 
 
 In the morning, I was pleased to observe 
 the sea at the end of the valley, about two 
 miles distant. I was astonished to see what 
 appeared to be an island, at a little distance 
 from the shore, when I knew that no island 
 was marked on the map off this part of the 
 African coast. I inquired of a Hottentot, if 
 he thought what we saw was actually an 
 island in the sea. He said he believed it 
 was land. Trusting a good deal to the ex- 
 cellent eyesight of Hottentots, I repaired to 
 the top of a low hill behind the wagons, 
 with my paper and pencil, to take a sketch 
 of this island and the co-ast near it. On 
 reaching the top of the hill, I found there 
 was no sea there, that the whole was an illu- 
 sion, and what I had supposed to be an 
 island was only a cloud near the horizon. 
 The whole mistake appeared to have arisen 
 from the refraction of the rays of light. 
 
216 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 However, my walk on that hill was not 
 entirely without some result; for I picked up 
 twelve or fourteen different kinds of flowers, 
 some of which I had not seen before, and 
 others a variety of what I had formerly seen. 
 
 At eight p. m. we arrived at the side of the 
 Duivenhok’s River, which appeared to be 
 considerably swelled: we therefore halted to 
 consult whether we should attempt crossing 
 it in the dark. On hearing that a wagon, 
 the day before, had lost five oxen when 
 crossing it, and that the people in it were 
 saved with difficulty, our Hottentots became 
 alarmed, and expressed great doubts of the 
 expediency or safety of attempting it in the 
 dark; at the same time looking towards the 
 opposite side, as if desirous to reach it that 
 night. Observing their hesitation, I request- 
 ed them positively to tell me what they 
 thought. On this one of them said, in a 
 decisive tone of voice, that he never liked to 
 do a thing when his mind at one time said, 
 Do it; and at another, Do not do it: to this 
 the rest assented; wherefore we unyoked 
 the oxen, and halted for the night. I found 
 afterwards that the opinion of a farmer, who 
 had outspanned, swayed the opinions of the 
 Hottentots; for they had heard him say it 
 would not be safe to cross, and the opinion 
 of a white man is always viewed by them 
 with respect. 
 
 About ten o’clock, a farmer coming from 
 the westward crossed over to us, with his 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 217 
 
 wagon, from the other side, without sustain- 
 ing any injury. I marked the height of the 
 water, by firmly fixing two sticks on the 
 edge of it, to ascertain how much it might 
 fall during the night. I found by the marks, 
 in the morning, that during the night the 
 river had subsided several inches. We 
 crossed at six a. m., the water reaching but 
 a little above the bellies of the oxen. We 
 halted at ten, among some low trees in a 
 beautiful valley. A farmer, who was hasten- 
 ing from Zwellendam to meet a brother, to 
 congratulate him on his safe return from the 
 commando against the Caffres, halted and 
 took a cup of coffee with us. He admired 
 the convenience of our tent, and was very 
 desirous that we should dispose of it to him. 
 A genteel looking young man, almost white, 
 attended him: we were sorry to learn he 
 was his slave; he spoke in his commenda- 
 tion, and said he took him with him in all 
 his journeys. 
 
 At two p. m., we commenced our last stage 
 to Caledon Institution. At four o’clock we 
 left the Cape road, turning to the right, or 
 north, and soon entered upon the grounds 
 belonging to Caledon. Halted for a little 
 at Redkuill, where part of the cattle are 
 kept, and was glad to see so many fields 
 cultivated by the people, more it seems than 
 they had ever cultivated there before; so 
 that our exhortations to industry, during our 
 last visit, had not been lost upon them. At 
 
218 PACALTSDORP AND BETHEESDORP. 
 
 seven in the evening we arrived safe at the 
 settlement, thankful for our preservation, and 
 that we were half way to the Cape from Pa- 
 caltsdorp; and what increased our gratitude 
 Avas our arriving only half an hour before it 
 began to rain; for had it commenced two or 
 three hours earlier, our progress must have 
 been stopped, and being Saturday night, we 
 must have spent our Sabbath in some wilder- 
 ness or solitary place. 
 
 October 31. Sabbath. The rain having 
 continued during the night to fall in gentle 
 showers, and the late rains having been 
 plentiful, the stupendous mountains as well 
 as the valleys Avere clothed in lovely and 
 lively green, mixed Avith flowers of every 
 form and colour, which rendered the Avhole 
 scene extremely gratifying; and the frag- 
 rance proceeding from innumerable floAvers 
 added greatly to the enjoyment. The birds 
 also, Avith their golden, or silvery, or emerald 
 plumages, came flying about us, Avhich added 
 to the grandeur of the display. 
 
 Is there a man Avho could witness such 
 magnificent displays of the Creator’s glory, 
 without secretly Avishing that God might be 
 his God, and his portion for ever ! What may 
 not the real Christian expect to behold and 
 enjoy in a Avorld without sin, to which he is 
 travelling, from the God Avho has provided 
 so much for the happiness of a rebellious 
 Avorld, many of Avhom look at bis Avorks 
 without wonder, and enjoy his mercies Avith- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSBORP. 219 
 
 out gratitude; yet God has patience with 
 them. The wretched heathen, in these re- 
 spects, are comparatively but little to blame; 
 but the man who possesses the records of 
 Heaven, and continues to behold and enjoy 
 the wonders and beneficence of the Creator, 
 with the eyes and feelings of a brute, is high- 
 ly culpable. But the greatest wonder of all 
 is discerned by very few, namely, God con- 
 descending to manifest himself in the nature 
 of man, not only to become a man, but also 
 a Man of sorrows, and acquainted with grief, 
 that sinners might be saved. Great indeed is 
 the mystery of godliness! 
 
 All the missionary business that I had to 
 attend to being finished by the afternoon of 
 Monday, we were able to depart from the 
 settlement at five p. m. We reached Zwel- 
 lendam about ten o’clock at night. We were 
 obliged to wait about half an hour at the toll 
 bar at the entrance to the town, because the 
 keeper was in bed, and not disposed to rise! 
 He actually sent a person to desire us to halt 
 till daylight next morning, when he would 
 rise and let us through the gate. We sent 
 back word, that if he did not rise and let us 
 through directly, we should immediately 
 complain to the landdrost. We found this 
 touched the right string; for the gate flew 
 open, and we were admitted. It turned out 
 that the opening of the gate was not the 
 cause of the grumbling of the toll keeper, 
 but the trouble of giving the change which 
 
220 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 lie supposed would be needed. Understand- 
 ing who we were, he escaped that trouble; 
 for he desired us to send it to him in the 
 morning. We passed along the street to the 
 other end of the town without seeing one 
 person, or the least indication of any person 
 within doors being awake. 
 
 We departed in the cool of the evening. 
 Broad River being full, wagons and oxen, 
 without unyoking, were taken over on a 
 large flat-bottomed boat; the loose oxen 
 swam over; the time occupied in effecting 
 the transport was an hour and a quarter. 
 
 November 3. About six p. m. it began to 
 rain a little, and gradually to increase until 
 eight, when it poured down so fast as to 
 oblige us to halt. Finding it impossible to 
 kindle a fire, all went to sleep supperless, 
 some under the wagons and others under 
 bushes. 
 
 November 4. I was sorry to find several 
 of our people had taken cold, from the wet 
 during the night. We went forward at five 
 in the morning, passed four farms, and halt- 
 ed at Mr. Knobelanch’s, where we break- 
 fasted and dined. He is a German, and now 
 that the wars of Europe are ended, he pur- 
 poses to return to his own country. They 
 were cutting down barley on his farm, which 
 was the first grain we had seen cut that sea- 
 son. November at the Cape answers to the 
 month of May in Europe. The crops in 
 most of his other fields were nearly ripe. The 
 
pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 221 
 
 grapes in that part of Africa produce a wine 
 resembling Rhenish. Several farmers passed, 
 returning from the commando, all glad to get 
 home. I have heard of nothing particular 
 which they have effected, except the capture 
 of a great many Caffre cattle; this probably 
 may replace the cattle stolen from the colon- 
 ists by the Caffres. 
 
 November 5. Left our halting at five in 
 the morning, in the expectation of reaching, 
 during the day, the Moravian Missionary 
 Station of Gnadenthal. 
 
 Departed at ten a. m., and at one came 
 again to Sonder-end River, but found the 
 river so deep that it was impossible for the 
 wagons to go over, and the bridge for foot 
 passengers was in ruins by the late floods. I 
 wrote to the missionaries at Gnadenthal, in- 
 forming them of my situation. In a short 
 time one of the brethren came to my help, 
 and by his directions we got safely across, by 
 means of the planks of the old bridge, and 
 were kindly received by all the brethren at 
 the station, and with great pleasure attended 
 their meeting for prayer in their spacious 
 church. 
 
 November 7. Attended the morning prayer 
 meeting at nine o’clock, when there was a 
 good attendance of the Hottentot population, 
 the rain not descending in such torrents. 
 One of the brethren read their liturgy. Be- 
 ing the Lord’s day, there was also a meeting 
 20 
 
222 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 ing in the forenoon, when Mr. Messer of Pa- 
 caltsdorp preached. 
 
 The mountains which surround the head 
 of the valley where Gnadenthal is placed are 
 extremely high, and must bring down the 
 clouds with their treasures when any are 
 passing. The missionaries, with commend- 
 able industry, have changed that once soli- 
 tary and wilderness place into fertile fields 
 and gardens; and there, I trust, many trees 
 of righteousness are growing, and bearing 
 fruit to the honour and glory of God. The 
 mission houses and workshops are neat and 
 substantial buildings; and some of the houses 
 of Hottentots are such as many of the pea- 
 santry in England would not be averse to in- 
 habit. The missionary who was the worthy 
 and venerable father of that mission when I 
 formerly visited it, I found had gone to his 
 rest, after a long, active, and laborious life in 
 the service of the best of Masters, Jesus 
 Christ. 
 
 November 8. After breakfast I left this 
 little paradise, and reached the wagons by 
 ten a. m., accompanied by one of the bre- 
 thren stationed at Gnadenthal, and another 
 who belongs to their station at Groene Kloof. 
 They showed me a stone bridge, which they 
 were building over that troublesome river; 
 one pier was finished, and two others were in 
 progress, but were not then visible, owing to 
 the great swell of the river. I saw many of 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 223 
 
 their gardens as we passed along, which ap- 
 peared well cultivated; they had also much 
 corn sown, which was likely to be very pro- 
 ductive, from the plentiful rains which had fal- 
 len; for often the weather, which is very try- 
 ing to a traveller, is enriching to the farmers. 
 
 The place is not found to be very healthy, 
 owing to the village being built on so low a 
 flat; this has obliged many of the Hottentots 
 to remove their houses to the higher grounds 
 on the sides of the valley, which they have 
 found to be much healthier. Most of the 
 female missionaries have complaints arising 
 from the dampness of the situation, but it 
 would be a serious loss were they obliged to 
 forsake their present handsome and substan- 
 tial edifices. They also complain of having 
 too little ground for supporting so numerous 
 a family, or settlement. Could their Euro- 
 pean friends supply them with funds to pur- 
 chase the first farm in the neighbourhood 
 that happens to be on sale, it would be a 
 valuable acquisition. It cannot reasonably 
 be expected that the missionaries, however 
 industrious, can afford to make such a pur- 
 chase from the fruits of their own exertions. 
 To help them, also, to finish the bridge would 
 be a laudable charity; for the want of it is 
 often found to be a serious evil to the settle- 
 ment. The following is an instance of this: 
 a farmer came with his wagon, to engage 
 some of the Hottentots to work on his farm; 
 by the rise of the river, he was detained the 
 
224 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 whole time that I was there, and his pre- 
 sence being much wanted at home, he set off 
 at the time I did, on horseback, to get over 
 the mountains, and home by some circuitous 
 way. The money expended for one even- 
 ing’s amusement at the Theatre could more 
 than build this bridge. 
 
 After taking leave of our Moravian bre- 
 thren, we proceeded on our journey, and 
 were soon glad to find, contrary to our fears, 
 that the roads were not made slippery by the 
 late rains, but the slippery substances had 
 been washed away, and gravel left behind. 
 Should the road be slippery, oxen can make 
 no progress in dragging a wagon up hill. 
 
 We passed the end of Zwarteberg, or 
 Black Mountain, to the left, which is of con- 
 siderable extent and singularly barren; little 
 being visible upon it but rocks and loose 
 stones. Notwithstanding this, the ground 
 in its vicinity appeared peculiarly fertile ; in- 
 deed the most extensive cultivation on one 
 farm which I had observed, was at the foot 
 of the west end of this mountain, which 
 greatly resembled an English farm. After 
 halting two hours at some water, we con- 
 tinued our journey till near midnight. 
 
 By four in the afternoon of the next day, 
 we halted near the foot of Hottentot’s Hol- 
 land Mountain, a little after crossing a bridge 
 over the Palmit River, the piers of which 
 are composed of stone, and the rest of tim- 
 ber; the floor of the bridge is strewed over 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 225 
 
 with the palmit plant, to preserve it from 
 being injured by the wheels of wagons. 
 Twelve skillings, or three shillings, for each 
 wagon were demanded by the toll keeper; 
 but, on finding we were carrying no articles 
 of traffic to the Cape, he reduced his demand 
 to one half. 
 
 Several farmer’s wagons travelling to the 
 Cape came up, and like us, outspanned at the 
 bridge. All the females belonging to them 
 seemed afraid to breathe the morning air, 
 having white handkerchiefs wrapped tightly 
 round their faces from the bottom of the chin 
 to the top of the nose, their eyes and a small 
 portion of their brows being all that was 
 visible. 
 
 At five p. m. left Palmit River, and soon 
 began the ascent of Hottentot’s Holland 
 Mountain, which is easy on that side com- 
 pared to that which looks toward the Cape. 
 On reaching the summit, Cape Town, Table 
 Mountain, and Table Bay, with the ship- 
 ping, burst all at once upon our view; like- 
 wise the two oceans, on the two sides of the 
 peninsula of the Cape, namely, the Indian 
 and the Ethiopic (or Southern Atlantic) 
 Ocean, added to the interest we took in 
 viewing the panorama; indeed there are few 
 spots in the world from which two oceans 
 can be seen. With locked wheels we safely 
 descended the long and steep front of the 
 mountain. At nine p. m. we halted about 
 
226 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 two miles from the village of Hottentot’s 
 Holland. 
 
 November 10. Being desirous to reach 
 Cape Town that day, we left our encamp- 
 ment at five in the morning, all in good spi- 
 rits, being able to see the end of our journey ; 
 for Table Mountain, from its enormous bulk, 
 appeared as if at hand. After the great 
 rains, when we were at Pacaltsdorp, news 
 came that the church at Hottentot’s Holland 
 was entirely washed down, like a new built 
 house at George; but, in passing it this morn- 
 ing, we were glad to observe that only one 
 of the gables had been destroyed. There be- 
 ing no coals in the colony, the bricks of which 
 the houses are composed cannot be said to be 
 more than half burnt, for after the kiln or pile 
 of new made bricks is raised, they can only 
 bury it with withered branches of trees laid 
 thickly above and around it, to which they 
 set fire; this method can only heat them, but 
 not burn them throughout like the English 
 bricks. Wherefore, when the rain by violent 
 wind is dashed against the building, the out- 
 side plaster of lime sometimes gives way, and 
 exposes the soft bricks to its influence, which 
 soon dissolves them; and should the rain 
 continue, the whole of the building exposed 
 to it must moulder away, till it becomes a 
 hillock of mud. At such times, a few inches 
 only of outside plaster being damaged, will 
 expose a whole building to destruction. Halt- 
 ed at eight a. m. 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 227 
 
 The heat of the day being considerable, 
 (thermometer 7S,) we could not advance till 
 four p. m. and continued moving till ten, when 
 we outspanned for the night, about eight 
 miles from Cape Town, which we entered 
 next morning about half past ten o’clock. 
 Before we left the ground where we had 
 been halting during the night, we were ex- 
 tremely annoyed by the attack of innumera- 
 ble multitudes of small flies, in appearance 
 resembling the common fly, but hardly larger 
 than a large pin head; however, they either 
 bit or stung severely, attacking the eyes, 
 mouth, and ears incessantly. We were in- 
 formed, that if we killed any of them, the 
 smell of the dead ones would bring many 
 more, as if to revenge the death of the slain: 
 many of them perished by their own heed- 
 lessness, rushing headlong into our heated 
 cups of coffee: we were sometimes obliged 
 to retreat to our wagons, to enjoy a momen- 
 tary relief. Were these little creatures as 
 plentiful throughout the colony as they were 
 opposite to the end of Table Mountain, they 
 would soon drive all Europeans home to 
 their various countries. While enduring their 
 annoyance, we thought of the plagues of 
 Egypt. 
 
 One evening, while at the Cape, I picked 
 up a very luminous grub worm, which, on 
 taking it home, gave light enough for me to 
 discover the hour by my watch. The lumi- 
 nous part was at the hinder part of the belly, 
 
22S PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 which it held up, and turned about in all di- 
 rections. It seems to have this lantern com- 
 pletely under its control, withdrawing it at 
 pleasure. 
 
 In front of a farm house, a pole eighteen 
 or twenty feet high was firmly fixed in the 
 ground. To this pole was chained a baboon, 
 or rather to an iron hoop which hung loosely 
 on the pole, so as not to impede the animal’s 
 ascending and descending; there was a round 
 piece of board nailed on the top for him to 
 sit on. He carried everything he could catch 
 hold of to the top, before he examined what 
 it was: if it was eatable, there he sat and ate 
 it with great deliberation; if it could not be 
 eaten, he tore it to pieces and threw it from 
 him. The rapidity with which he ascended 
 and descended appeared very wonderful: I 
 think he would come down, take up any 
 thing from the ground, and reach the top with 
 it, all in the space of half a minute. The 
 pole had holes on both sides of it, which he 
 took hold of with his claws in mounting; but 
 slid down in a moment. Some of the people 
 tried, by shaking the pole, to force him from 
 his seat on the top, but all in vain; but if 
 Kleinfeld, my Hottentot boy, threw any thing 
 against the pole, he descended in a twink- 
 ling, and pursued him as far as his chain 
 would permit, as if he would not bear an in- 
 sult from a Hottentot. 
 
 Robin Island lies at the entrance of Table 
 Bay, and is only about four miles in circum- 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 229 
 
 ference. It is used as a kind of Botany Bay 
 to the colony of the Cape. Lynx, the noted 
 Caffre chief, who was said to have been ac- 
 quainted with the late Dr. Vanderkemp, was 
 a kind of state prisoner upon the island, in 
 consequence of the part he had taken in the 
 Caffre war. I felt desirous to visit him, and 
 mentioned it to Mr. M., who was govern- 
 ment surveyor, and frequently visited the 
 island on government business, and that I 
 should be glad to accompany him the next 
 time he went thither. 
 
 He soon after sent to me, at seven in the 
 morning, intimating that he had a boat ready 
 to depart for Robin Island. We left the 
 beach about eight o’clock; there being little 
 wind, we were about three hours in reaching 
 it. The surge at landing was considerable, 
 however, the men carried us so expeditiously, 
 after one wave had spent its force, that we 
 reached the shore before the return of the 
 next. Mr. M. having finished his business 
 with the commandant, he sent the serjeant 
 with us to visit Lynx. He was lodged in a 
 small house, about a mile along the shore, 
 which was covered with deep sand. 
 
 We found Lynx a fine figure, of a man, 
 measuring six feet two inches in height; and 
 he seemed pleased at our calling upon him. 
 He remembered Dr. Vanderkemp being in 
 Caffraria, and pointed to the upper part of 
 his head as being bald, meaning that Dr. 
 Vanderkemp was so. He mentioned that 
 
230 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 the doctor had made him a present, and that 
 he had given him a small cow in return. He 
 also knew our missionary, Mr. Williams, and 
 said he had a child so high, as he held his 
 hand from the ground. He told us twice that 
 he had never killed an Englishman; which 
 made us conjecture that he was fearful lest 
 the government should put him to death for 
 his crimes. 
 
 He had many marks of old cuts, or wounds, 
 on different parts of his body, especially be- 
 hind his shoulders. On inquiring the cause 
 of them, he said they were done by his mo- 
 ther when he was sick, to cure him. He had 
 a kind of tattooing, the form of a cross, under 
 his breast, evidently executed by some sharp 
 instrument, which he said was done by the 
 women. He had several rings, composed of 
 coarse hair, on his arms, upon which he 
 seemed to put little value ; but he directed our 
 attention to an ivory one, as one he highly 
 valued. He took it from his arm and looked 
 through it to the sun for a considerable time. 
 The soldiers of the 72d regiment, who guard- 
 ed him, told us, that at sunrise and sunset he 
 always did the same, and held a conversation 
 in Dutch with the sun, telling it that he was 
 deprived of his wives, and that he did not 
 know what had become of his cattle. 
 
 Lately, he had been very unruly for four 
 days, when he struck all who came near him, 
 which obliged them to bind him with ropes, 
 both hands and feet, the marks of which he 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 231 
 
 still carried. During two of those days, he 
 ate nothing. On finding that resistance was 
 useless, he has been very quiet ever since. 
 He is allowed what quantity of food he 
 chooses: he expresses an aversion to mutton, 
 and will not eat it. He speaks with seeming 
 irritation against Geika, the king of the Caf- 
 fres, whose goyernment he very probably 
 would have overturned, but for the support 
 given to Geika by the colonial government. 
 
 There is no remarkable indication of talent 
 in the countenance of Lynx, but much of 
 the knave and impostor is apparent; perhaps 
 we supposed this from previously knowing 
 that these were prominent traits in his cha- 
 racter. He told us that his father was a Caf- 
 fre, but not his mother; yet he had the ad- 
 dress and cunning to raise himself almost to 
 the head of the Caffre nation. He was a 
 state prisoner, much on the same grounds on 
 which Bonaparte was detained a prisoner on 
 the island of St. Helena. 
 
 I made Lynx a present of a small kaleido- 
 scope, which seemed to afford him much en- 
 tertainment; but after he had examined it a 
 few times, he expressed a strong desire to 
 see what was in the inside of it. I told him 
 it was not designed to be opened, and showed 
 him that the tin case was soldered on purpose 
 that it might not be opened, and assured him 
 that within were only broken pieces of glass 
 of different colours, which made the figures 
 he saw. The soldiers seemed confident that 
 
232 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 he never would be satisfied till he had forced 
 it open. I presented him also with a red 
 worsted nightcap ; but he could not conjec- 
 ture the use of it, till we explained that it was 
 to be worn on the head in the night time. 
 
 He is allowed to walk out, but in his ex- 
 cursions he must have a soldier with a loaded 
 musket to attend him. This appendage he 
 does not approve of; therefore, like Napo- 
 leon, he hardly ever leaves his house. He is 
 not confined in the prison with the convicts, 
 but in a small house about a mile from it. 
 Were he along with them, he might induce 
 them to make some desperate attempt to re- 
 gain their liberty. The soldiers thought, that 
 by his sometimes pretending to talk to the 
 sun, and sometimes to the ground, he wished 
 to make them believe that he had connexion 
 with superior spirits. 
 
 It is thought that Lynx was the principal 
 author of the late Caffre war. It is reported, 
 that government intend to get one of his 
 wives, from Caffreland, to come and live 
 with him. His situation, at present, must 
 be extremely irksome, yet it would be haz- 
 ardous to set him at liberty, as he would 
 probably return to Caffraria, determined to 
 take revenge on the colony, for his imprison- 
 ment and the loss of his cattle. 
 
 No island in the world can be more bar- 
 ren, dreary, or uninteresting than Robin 
 Island: St. Helena is a perfect paradise 
 compared to it; the surface is covered with 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 233 
 
 nothing but sand, heath, and stones. It 
 contains the commandant’s house, the jail 
 for convicts, Mr. Murray’s house for a whale 
 fishery, and the small house where Lynx is 
 confined. Slates, and sea shells for making 
 lime, are sent from it to Cape Town. 
 
 About an hour after leaving the island, 
 Table Mountain assumed its angry appear- 
 ance; a white cloud in the form of a table 
 cloth began to collect on the summit, and, 
 what was worse, to hang down the front of 
 it. A south-east wind began to blow, which 
 being directly against our making the shore, 
 excited our fears lest we should either be 
 blown back to Robin Island, or, missing it, 
 be blown out to sea, when we knew there 
 was no other land nearer than South Ameri- 
 ca, which was three thousand miles off. The 
 wind blowing in opposition to a swell from 
 the ocean, caused such a confusion of waves, 
 that our little bark could with difficulty get 
 forward at a very slow rate. As it frequently 
 happens, at the commencement of those gales, 
 that the wind comes in gusts or strong puffs; 
 so it was at this time, and we found them 
 very troublesome, and were in danger of be- 
 ing capsized. However, after three hours’ 
 rowing, with all the strength the sailors 
 could apply to the oars, we happily reached 
 the shore, about four o’clock in the after- 
 noon; after which the wind continued to 
 increase, till it blew a strong gale. 
 
 For some days I felt uneasy from a pain 
 
234 pacaltsdorp and bethelsdorp. 
 
 in my neck, without paying any attention to 
 it. At length, as it became so uneasy that I 
 could not turn my head without much pain, 
 I examined it before a looking glass, and dis- 
 covered that it proceeded from what is called 
 a bush-louse, which clung to the part; a black 
 creature, about an inch in circumference, and 
 so flat, that drawing the finger over it when 
 on the skin, no rise above the level of the 
 skin is perceptible. A slave rubbed some 
 sweet oil over the animal, which, though it 
 seemed to cause uneasiness, did not dispose 
 it to give up its hold. Mrs. Breda advised 
 me not to force it off, lest its head should be 
 left in the skin. Cornelius, my Hottentot 
 wagon driver, happening to come in, en- 
 gaged to act the doctor upon this occasion. 
 He took some tobacco oil from his pipe, 
 which he applied to the animal; this it evi- 
 dently disliked, for it began soon to raise 
 itself up. But the Hottentot being rather 
 hasty in operating, pulled off the whole ani- 
 mal except his head, which caused consider- 
 able inflammation and pain for several days. 
 
 I left Cape Town on a journey into the 
 interior, January 18th, which lasted about 
 ten months; having returned to Cape Town, 
 November 10th of the same year; during 
 which journey I visited the countries of the 
 Wild Bushmen, Corannas, Griquas, Match- 
 appees, Tammahas, Mashows, Marootzees, 
 and Matslaroos. 
 
 November 18. The mission house, during 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORF. 235 
 
 the whole week, was filled with visiters from 
 morning to evening, viewing the articles I 
 had brought from the interior, especially the 
 head of the rhinoceros. Amongst them were 
 the governor, colonial secretary, president of 
 the court of justice, the president of the burg- 
 her senate, many East India gentlemen, offi- 
 cers of the army and navy, and many ladies; 
 indeed most of the principal persons in town 
 and neighbourhood. All were of opinion, 
 that no animal was likely to be found that 
 would better answer the fancied description 
 of the unicorn, than the animal from whose 
 carcass this head was taken. After several 
 minute examinations by an eminent natural- 
 ist, he pronounced his opinion to be, that it 
 is the unicorn of the Scriptures.* 
 
 When dining one evening at H. E — ’s, 
 Esq., with several officers of the army and 
 their ladies, the dinner being removed, and 
 the table covered with decanters, wine glass- 
 es, fruit plates, and with many wax candles, 
 whose brilliant lights were so reflected by 
 long mirrors reaching from the ceiling to 
 the floor, as almost to change the night into 
 day, one of the company asked me what 
 Muliaily, the man I had brought from Lat- 
 takoo, would think of all this finery were 
 
 * The unicorn of Scripture must have been an Egyp- 
 tian or Arabian animal. South Africa and its indigenous 
 animals were then and till lately unknown. The unicorn 
 of Scripture was an antelope, (Ant. Oryx,) often sculptured 
 on Egyptian monuments. — Edit. 
 
236 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 he present. I could not say, but suggested, 
 as he was not far off, he might be tried. 
 
 The man-servant went, and soon brought 
 him. The night being dark, was not a good 
 preparation for entering such a glare of light. 
 On the room door being opened for his ad- 
 mittance, he immediately placed both his 
 hands on his eyes, taking them off several 
 times and putting them on before he moved 
 a step in advance. At length, being able to 
 view what was before him, he looked with 
 astonishment. The first thing that attracted 
 his notice, was an ornament of several rows 
 of pearl beads, hanging round the neck and 
 resting on the bosom of an elegantly dressed 
 lady, to reach whom he had to go round the 
 end of the table; on approaching her, he 
 raised up the lower part of the beads from 
 her bosom with his black hands, saying with 
 a smile to the lady, in Dutch, “ These are 
 very beautiful!” Whether he expected the 
 lady then to give them to him, was uncertain, 
 but unquestionably he coveted them. As 
 soon as he could take his eyes from the 
 beads, he observed the branch candlesticks; 
 being a tall man, he could examine them 
 over the heads of the ladies and gentlemen. 
 While doing so, the long mirrors diverted his 
 attention, in which he beheld a whole length 
 likeness of himself, at which he desired me 
 to look, while he gently tapped his nose with 
 his fore-finger, and heartily laughed at the 
 figure in the glass imitating him in all his 
 
PACALTSDOKP AND BETHELSDORP. 237 
 
 actions. On taking a glass of wine that was 
 given to him, he looked at me, saying, 
 “ Mynhere,” (sir,) and drank it off. He only 
 remarked it was sweet. He then pranced 
 with perfect ease round the table, when he 
 appeared satisfied with what he had seen, 
 and was allowed to go home to relate the 
 wonders he had beheld. From the unem- 
 barrassed, independent manner in which Mu- 
 liaily acted the whole time he was in the 
 room, Mr. E. remarked that he must have 
 lived in a free country, or under a free go - 
 vernment; which was certainly the case. 
 
 On the 27th of November, the wind blew 
 with such violence in Cape Town, that it 
 was almost impossible, in the evening, to 
 walk along the streets; yet two wretched 
 men, in a state of intoxication, made a wager 
 that they would swim from the end of the 
 jetty, or pier, to some place on the shore. 
 Stormy as the night was, they went to the 
 end of the jetty, stripped, and plunged into 
 the boisterous deep; and, as might have been 
 expected, were seen no more, both being 
 drowned. 
 
 December 5. I left Cape Town for my 
 retirement about three miles from it, accom- 
 panied by Muliaily and two lads, who also 
 were natives of Lattakoo, and came with a 
 wagon that left us at Graaf Reynet, on our 
 way from Lattakoo to the Cape, having to 
 go round by Bethelsdorp. They were car- 
 rying a few articles for me. Each of them 
 21 
 
238 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 had learned a little Dutch, as we travelled to 
 the Cape. When viewing Cape Town from 
 an eminence on the road, Muliaily asked me 
 if the Marootzee town I had seen (meaning 
 Kurreechain, three hundred miles beyond 
 Lattakoo, and which he had not seen,) was 
 as large as Cape Town. I told him it stood 
 on more ground, but did not contain so many 
 people. They were greatly astonished at 
 seeing a ship get under way, seeing it gra- 
 dually spreading out its sails, and then ob- 
 serving its progress. They looked at such 
 things as we might suppose persons would 
 do who had only that day fallen down from 
 the moon. Each of them told me how tall 
 he was the first time I visited Lattakoo, hold- 
 ing up their hands at different distances from 
 the ground. On taking them to the side of 
 the ocean, they laughed incessantly at the 
 dashing of the bulky waves, and the angry 
 noise they made. When the wave was re- 
 tiring, they boldly pursued it; but when a 
 fresh wave returned, they fled with great 
 precipitation. 
 
 December 10. Dr. Philip and I set off at 
 six a. m., on a visit to Simons Town, which 
 lies about twenty miles to the south of Cape 
 Town. Captain Vernon, who commanded 
 a sloop, or brig of war, which was at that 
 time anchored off Simons Town, wishing to 
 see how the Matchappees from Lattakoo, 
 would be affected by seeing a war ship, re- 
 quested us to bring them with us when we 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 239 
 
 came to Simons Town; we sent them for- 
 ward the evening before. Messrs. U. and F., 
 from India, accompanied us. The road was 
 good. We went round a great part of Table 
 Mountain, and had a range of hill on the 
 right, running out from behind it, passing 
 Newlands, Rondebosh, Wineberg, and Con- 
 stantia ; also a considerable fresh water lake 
 on our left; after which the road runs along 
 the margin of the sea to Simons Town, which 
 we reached at half past nine in the morning, 
 and found our Lattakoo friends had arrived 
 before us. 
 
 Soon after our arrival, we went on board 
 the Blossom. Three boats were waiting at 
 the jetty, to take the company on board to 
 breakfast. Our friends were surprised to see 
 the boldness with which the three Matchap- 
 pees stepped into the boat, as it was the first 
 time they had ever been on the water. I 
 thought it arose from their having travelled 
 with me about two months, and having never 
 discovered any thing wrong in what I had 
 asked them to do. As I had gone first into 
 the boat, and desired them to come also, 
 they trusted to me that there was no danger. 
 
 On reaching the ship, they were astonished 
 at every thing they saw, especially the depth 
 of the hold, which they discovered was much 
 deeper than the surface of the water by which 
 the ship was surrounded outside the vessel. 
 The height of the mast also attracted their 
 notice. One of the cannons was fired off at 
 
240 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 their side, which did not seem to excite either 
 surprise or fear. The captain ordered them 
 a good breakfast, and, with the other officers, 
 made them various presents, and they re- 
 turned to the shore highly pleased with what 
 they had seen. They afterwards visited Sir 
 J. Brenton, the commissioner, and were de- 
 lighted at hearing some times played by Miss 
 Brenton on the piano forte, often imitating its 
 sounds with their own voices. They were 
 also much amused with the paintings which 
 surrounded them in the room, and seemed to 
 prefer those that had ships. After they had 
 enjoyed a comfortable dinner, and received 
 some presents from the commissioner, suited 
 to their tastes, they returned to the Cape, 
 highly pleased with the treatment they had 
 received at Simons Town. 
 
 Dr. Philip and I dined with the commis- 
 sioner in the evening, where we remained 
 during the night, and next morning returned 
 to Cape Town. The weather was most plea- 
 sant the whole way till we turned the cor- 
 ner, or east end, of Table Mountain, when 
 we found that, in front of the mountain, there 
 was a gale of wind, so powerful that we 
 sometimes found it required considerable ex- 
 ertion to keep our seats on the horses. Cape 
 Town was enveloped in clouds of sand. 
 
 December 15. Muliaily, and his country- 
 man Barootz, a lad about eighteen years of 
 age, brought something for me from town. 
 Barootz asked me, if, after I went back to 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 241 
 
 England, I should ever come to Lattakoo 
 again. 1 said it was not likely I should ever 
 see Lattakoo again. I then asked him if he 
 should like to go with me to England. He 
 said, No, it was too far. He then pointed to 
 holes in his leathern trowsers, and requested 
 a new pair. I pointed to pieces of his lea- 
 thern cloak, which could be spared from it, 
 and desired, him to cut them off, and sew up 
 the holes with them, then all would be right. 
 They were both highly diverted with the 
 suggestion, though I perceived they did not 
 intend to do it. 
 
 December 25. Being Christmas day, some 
 friends dined at Mr. Breda’s; one of them, 
 Mr. G. captain of a London trader, came with 
 hat off and vest open, from the oppressive 
 heat; the thermometer, in the shade, being 
 90. When ascending the steps outside the 
 house, he was calling out, “ Oh ! that our 
 friends in England had the half of our heat, 
 in exchange for the half of their cold!” 
 
 About a hundred and fifty slaves, belong- 
 ing to Mr. B — and some of his friends, kept 
 a holiday near me, which is allowed them at 
 this season of the year. They had six or eight 
 dozen of Cape wine, with bread and meat in 
 great abundance, and various other articles 
 of food. All were as well dressed as ser- 
 vants in England when in their best attire, 
 and all appeared cheerful. 
 
 I found that three ships had been driven 
 on shore, a little to the eastward, during the 
 
242 FACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 storm of Tuesday and Wednesday; and that 
 a fine spirited youth son of Mr. R., had lost 
 his life in his zeal to save the lives of others. 
 He left Cape Town by sunrise on the morn- 
 ing of the storm, on horseback, to give all the 
 assistance in his power to the people in the 
 ships. He was successful in catching a rope 
 that was thrown from one of the vessels, and 
 bringing it in triumph to the shore, which 
 formed a communication between the ship 
 and the shore, by means of which those on 
 .board were saved. This success so elevated 
 and encouraged him, that he galloped off to- 
 wards another stranded ship, to assist the 
 people on board of her in the same manner. 
 Some persons, who observed his efforts, 
 called out to him that he would have to cross 
 the mouths of the Salt River, which were 
 very dangerous; but this did not deter him: 
 he heedlessly rushed forward, and, in about 
 a minute, his horse plunged into the deep 
 bed of the Salt River, the steep sides of 
 which were not then visible, the swell of the 
 sea completely concealing them: he imme- 
 diately lost his seat on the horse, and was 
 carried out to sea by the current and his 
 body was not found till next day. 
 
 A Danish captain, on his intended last 
 voyage before retiring from the toils of life 
 with a competency, came with his ship into 
 the bay the evening before the storm. His 
 ship was one of the vessels driven on shore, 
 and on the worst part of the whole bay, 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 243 
 
 namely, at the mouth of the Salt River, 
 where all is quicksand; the vessel, soon after 
 touching ground, sunk almost out of sight. 
 In consequence of this loss, he is said to be 
 reduced to utter poverty, and so must begin 
 his toils afresh when he considered them al- 
 most ended. The cargoes of the other two 
 vessels were saved. Most people who heard 
 of the case of the Danish captain pitied him, 
 his wealth having taken wings and flown 
 away; but I heard of no contributions made 
 to assist the poor man. 
 
 . A Hottentot whom Dr. Philip had engaged 
 to go with two ships of war, but on a peace- 
 ful expedition, to Agra Boquena Bay, in 
 Great Namaqualand, to commence a trade 
 there with the natives, in order to supply St. 
 Helena with cattle, was reported to be taken 
 up and carried to prison by the dienaars, 
 (police,) who constantly patrole the streets. 
 We called at the deputy fiscal’s on the busi- 
 ness, who sent for the sheriff, who said he 
 had been taken up for playing at a game like 
 dice, on the street, which was prohibited, in 
 consequence of its causing so many disputes 
 and fightings among the slaves. The game, 
 from what I heard, must have been pitch- 
 and-toss, with penny pieces. Orders, how- 
 ever, were given for his release. 
 
 Lately, a vessel having completed its cargo 
 of timber at Neisnar, in the district of George, 
 for the Cape, was ready to sail, when a gen- 
 tleman took his passage in her, and put on 
 
214 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 board his trunks; after which he brought 
 his horse, in expectation of getting it on 
 board along with the captain’s, but he found 
 there was not room. Not being willing to 
 lose his horse by leaving it behind, he re- 
 solved to ride on it himself to the Cape. He 
 took leave of the captain, expecting to meet 
 him again in a few days at Cape Town. 
 But the vessel capsized, probably that very 
 night, when all on board perished. The 
 vessel soon after was driven ashore with the 
 bottom uppermost. The rejection of the 
 horse saved the gentleman from a watery 
 grave. 
 
 February 12. Attended the governor’s 
 levee, which gave me an opportunity of see- 
 ing Anza, Prince of Joanna, with his suite, 
 Abdalla, Bakkar, and another, all richly 
 dressed, who were attending the levee. They 
 had not to wait their turn for admission to 
 the governor, but were introduced soon after 
 their arrival. 
 
 When Dr. Philip and I were admitted to 
 the governor, I mentioned my having come 
 to take leave previous to embarking for 
 England, on Thursday. His excellency in- 
 formed us that the prince of Joanna and his 
 suite were to dine along with them. He 
 also expressed a wish that Dr. Philip would 
 take charge of the prince’s education while 
 he remained at Cape Town. The prince 
 and his attendants could speak English, but 
 the governor wished he should be taught 
 
PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 245 
 
 it grammatically, and also to write. The 
 governor said that the prince had been 
 wrecked, and robbed by pirates, when on a 
 pilgrimage to Mecca, being a Mohammedan; 
 but he hoped Dr. Philip would teach him 
 the way to Jerusalem. His excellency, with 
 much frankness, consented to my journal 
 being dedicated to him, on its publication in 
 England. 
 
 He told us of a communication he had re- 
 ceived from Governor Farquhar, of the Mau- 
 ritius, or Isle of France, stating, that the 
 whole island of Madagascar was now under 
 one king, with whom he had entered into a 
 treaty, in which the king had engaged en- 
 tirely to abolish the slave trade over all his 
 dominions. To reimburse the king for the 
 loss he should sustain by its abolition, the 
 governor had consented to pay him a thou- 
 sand gold dollars, and a thousand silver ones, 
 some articles of dress, and other commodi- 
 ties. 
 
 The captain and passengers of the Castle 
 Forbes visited the mission house, to view 
 the curiosities from the interior of the coun- 
 try, before they were packed to be sent on 
 board. 
 
 February 13. Wednesday. Went out to 
 the governor’s at Newlands to dinner, at 
 seven o’clock. A large party was there to 
 meet the prince of Joanna, several of whom 
 I had the pleasure to know. One of the 
 prince’s attendants was known to the Eng- 
 22 
 
246 PACALTSDORP AND BETHELSDORP. 
 
 lish who touched at Joanna, by the name of 
 Lord Nelson; but he said it was a play 
 name, not his real name. They could all 
 speak English, having become familiar with 
 it by ships from India often touching at their 
 island. They were very friendly to the Eng- 
 lish. 
 
 After they had been shipwrecked, in con- 
 sequence of being driven on shore by an 
 Arabian pirate from the Persian Gulf, they 
 were picked up by an English ship, and car- 
 ried to Penang, from whence they were 
 brought to the Cape in another English ves- 
 sel; judging that it was likely to find a ves- 
 sel there that would land them on Joanna. 
 They intended to remain for some time, in 
 order to obtain education. 
 
 They wore elegant scarlet Turkish dresses, 
 ornamented with silks and gold lace; and 
 all of them wore elegant turbans, which they 
 kept on during dinner; indeed they never 
 were uncovered. They behaved politely, 
 drank no wine, and ate nothing but simple 
 things, chiefly rice and custards. 
 
247 
 
 PART V. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 After various journeys, during a residence 
 of two years in South Africa, the hour of 
 departure at length came, which was Feb- 
 ruary 15, 1821. Having bid adieu, proba- 
 bly for ever, to many kind friends, I went on 
 board the Castle Forbes, Captain Reid, last 
 from Bombay, which vessel touched at the 
 Cape in order to put ashore some passengers, 
 and recruit the stock of provisions and wa- 
 ter. I took on board with me, Paul, a Hot- 
 tentot youth about eleven years of age, son 
 of Dikkop, late chief of Hooge Kraal, that 
 he might receive an education in England. 
 We sailed out of Table Bay at two p. m., 
 soon losing sight of Cape Town, but not of 
 Table Mountain, till the darkness of night 
 concealed it from our view. 
 
 Feb. IS. Sabbath. I preached on the 
 quarter deck. Passengers, children, servants, 
 and sailors formed a good congregation ; and, 
 what was peculiarly gratifying to observe 
 on board a ship returning from India, both 
 
248 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 passengers and sailors possessed copies of the 
 Scriptures, which they brought with them to 
 worship. 
 
 February 28. Not only our reckoning 
 and observations, but also appearances all 
 day have indicated our approach to St. He- 
 lena. Clouds have increased, which are 
 attracted by the island; towards midnight 
 the greater part of the heavens were covered 
 by them. 
 
 March 1. Mr. R , the first officer, 
 
 awoke me at two o’clock in the morning, 
 that I might see St. Helena by starlight. 
 Though I had travelled over it before, yet I 
 viewed it with fresh interest, from its being 
 the residence of Bonaparte, who once made 
 the world to tremble, but was now confined, 
 perhaps, on the most retired island in the 
 world, the furthest removed from all other 
 residences of human beings. Who could 
 have conjectured, a few years ago, that the 
 man who had all the European nations at his 
 feet, except Great Britain, should have been 
 confined on a little African island? That man 
 advanced rapidly from step to step, till he 
 readied the highest pinnacle of human glory; 
 but his fall was still more rapid than his rise. 
 Thus passes away the glory of the world! 
 Posthumous fame seemed to be a ruling prin- 
 ciple of poor Napoleon. What can it avail 
 him now, when his body is gone to the re- 
 gions of the dead, and his spirit to the judg- 
 ment of God, and the world of spirits? He 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 249 
 
 has now other topics and scenes to engross 
 his attention, than to muse upon what vain 
 men in yonder miserable world are thinking 
 or saying of him. His kingdoms are taken 
 from him, his high sounding titles are all ex- 
 tinct, his patronage, pomp, and splendour are 
 all passed away, like the morning cloud, or 
 the lightnings and thunderings of a night. 
 Look with the mind’s eye on his silent tomb 
 and say, “Is this the man that made the 
 earth to tremble? Truly his breath was in 
 his nostrils, but now it is gone, and there he 
 must lie till the heavens and the earth be no 
 more! My soul, glory thou only in the Lord, 
 for all flesh is as grass, and all the glory of 
 man as the flower of grass, which perhaps is 
 a little taller, looks more gaudy, and attracts 
 more attention than the grass; but the mower 
 finds no difference, both fall by the same 
 stroke, and both wither away together: but 
 the word of the Lord, contained in the gos- 
 pel, endureth for ever. Wherefore let us 
 prefer the gospel to all earthly glory.”* 
 
 At seven a. m. we were within a few ca- 
 bles’ length from the east end of the island, 
 when the Blossom brig of war sent an officer 
 on board our ship, to learn what we were, 
 and the names of all on board, to whom I 
 delivered letters from the governor of the 
 Cape and the naval commissioner, for the ad- 
 miral. The officer said they should imme- 
 
 * These thoughts were added after hearing of the death 
 of Bonaparte. 
 
250 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 diately be sent ashore with the account he 
 had written down of the ship. The Blossom 
 sailed with us till opposite James Town, from 
 whence a signal was soon made that we had 
 liberty to cast anchor. The captain of the 
 Blossom, whom I had the pleasure of know- 
 ing at the Cape, on seeing my name in the 
 list of passengers in the Castle Forbes, kindly 
 paid me a visit on board our ship; and I re- 
 ceived a letter from the admiral, inviting me 
 ashore to breakfast next morning, and ex- 
 pressing a desire to see any of the curiosities 
 I had brought from the interior of Africa, 
 which I could conveniently bring on shore. 
 Our captain and all the passengers visited 
 the Vigo, of seventy-four guns, which was 
 the admiral’s ship, and was in fine order, and 
 an interesting sight. 
 
 March 2. A boat from the Vigo came and 
 took me to James Town at half past eight in 
 the morning, and another at nine to carry 
 the curiosities on shore. After breakfast the 
 boxes were opened. The skull and horn 
 of a rhinoceros, which we had shot about 
 twelve hundred miles up from the Cape of 
 Good Hope, excited most curiosity. Several 
 St. Helena gentlemen and ladies were invited 
 to view them, who all seemed highly grati- 
 fied. I stood about three hours explaining 
 the different articles. I gave a specimen of 
 blue asbestos stone to the admiral, and also 
 left one for Sir Hudson Lowe, and another for 
 Bonaparte addressed to General Montholon. 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 251 
 
 I had tiffin with the admiral’s secretary 
 and surgeon, both of whom felt an interest 
 in the progress of missions to the heathen ; 
 after which I went with the surgeon to the 
 company’s garden, where a tree was pointed 
 out to me which had been planted by that 
 celebrated navigator, Captain Cook. I visit- 
 ed also some Chinese carpenters who were 
 at work. Their master said that they made 
 very good work, but were slow, and took 
 their own way in doing every thing. 
 
 A box of books had arrived for Bona- 
 parte, from London, and being opened by 
 one of the servants opposite the window 
 where the clergyman was, Napoleon and 
 Bertrand came to inspect them. Bonaparte 
 took them out, and selected such as he wished 
 to peruse, throwing off the paper in which 
 each volume was wrapped, till he was stand- 
 ing above the knees in loose paper. Mon- 
 tholon said to the clergyman that he might 
 draw up the blinds, which would enable him 
 to see the emperor better. Though Bona- 
 parte stood within three yards of him, and 
 the window quite open for half an hour, he 
 took not the smallest notice of him; though, 
 probably, he opened the box at that time 
 chiefly to gratify the visiter with a sight of 
 himself, which he must have known every 
 one was anxious to obtain. 
 
 I walked about the town for some time 
 with Mr. M., a pious midshipman of the 
 Vigo, who mentioned that he had received 
 
252 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 that morning a letter from a young man who 
 resided on another part of the island, and 
 who but very lately had been converted to 
 the faith and hope of the gospel of Jesus 
 Christ. In that letter, he said that he was 
 almost overwhelmed with the thought of his 
 inability to praise Christ for the greatness 
 and freeness of his love to him. 
 
 There were four prayer meetings held 
 every week in James Town, chiefly com- 
 posed of naval and military officers, and sol- 
 diers. One of the meetings was held in a 
 sergeant’s house, the other three were in the 
 houses of officers. He thought all was the 
 result of the long continued exertions of 
 Lieutenant A., whom I sought for, but could 
 not find him before I was obliged to go on 
 board our ship, which was to sail at sunset. 
 Soon after getting on board, I received a let- 
 ter from Lieutenant A., whom I had known 
 during my former visit to St. Helena, regret- 
 ting that lie could not visit me, owing to the 
 officer being absent who signed permissions 
 to visit ships; nor could I go ashore without 
 risking my passage, as we were preparing to 
 sail. 
 
 At sunset, a flag was hoisted on the heights, 
 as a signal to the admiral, that Bonaparte 
 had been seen; immediately afterwards a 
 signal was made to us, that we had permis- 
 sion to depart. 
 
 It was quite dark before we got under 
 weigh. The lights of the town, and the ships 
 
CAPE OP GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 253 
 
 in the roads, were distinguishable for two 
 hours from our deck, when we gradually lost 
 sight both of them and of the island, to be 
 seen by most of us no more, for ever. 
 
 March S. We passed the Island of Ascen- 
 sion, but not within sight of it. 
 
 March 9. The boatswain struck a harpoon 
 into a porpoise, which measured eight feet 
 in length, and four feet in circumference at 
 the breast. He struck it into a second, but 
 the rope breaking while pulling it up, poor 
 thing! it escaped with the harpoon sticking 
 into it. We saw it frequently rising above 
 water, and the blood flowing copiously from 
 the wound. All the other porpoises left the 
 ship, and kept swimming around their wound- 
 ed companion, waiting, it was supposed, till 
 it should die, that they might devour it. On 
 cutting up the porpoise just caught, we found 
 about a dozen fishes in its stomach, several 
 of them eighteen and twenty inches long. I 
 ate of its flesh, which was darker coloured 
 than beef, and also of its liver, both of which 
 tasted tolerably well. 
 
 March 16. Crossed the equinoctial line at 
 ten a. m., at longitude 19 deg. w.; the same 
 day seven years in which I had crossed it on 
 my former return from Southern Africa. The 
 ship having had convicts on board for Botany 
 Bayand Van Dieman’s Land in the going out, 
 the captain would not permit the sailors to per- 
 form the usual ceremony of shaving, on those 
 who had not crossed the line, but promised to 
 
254 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 allow it on their return; on which account, 
 about ten sailors who had not crossed the line 
 before this voyage, went through the cere- 
 mony. All the passengers were exempted, 
 (indeed all had crossed before,) excepting 
 five servants who were natives of India, 
 and some children who were born there. 
 
 March 17. At midnight the moon was 
 vertical, or immediately above our heads. 
 
 March 21. The sun crossed the equator. 
 At noon we were in latitude 5 deg. 20 min. 
 and caught the n. e. trade winds. 
 
 March 25. Sabbath. At seven in the 
 morning we saw a lugger following us; at 
 nine she had gained considerably upon us, 
 and was seen to be full of men. At ten a. m. 
 we began our worship on deck, as usual, at 
 the conclusion of which she had got within a 
 quarter of a mile of us, when she showed 
 North American colours; but we had no 
 doubt that she was a South American insur- 
 gent privateer. In a short time she hailed, 
 and informed us she was from the River de 
 la Plata, and had been out on a cruize for 
 four months. After answering their questions, 
 the captain inquired if they had any news 
 from Europe. They said the queen of Eng- 
 land was acquitted. Some time afterwards, 
 they said they would send us some English 
 newspapers. We said we should like to have 
 them, and hove to. Their first officer and 
 four men came in a boat, bringing seven or 
 eight papers of November, IS20. I asked 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 255 
 
 the officer, who spoke good English, being 
 probably a North American, if he would ac- 
 cept of a small handsomely printed New 
 Testament, of the Naval and Military Bible 
 Society, which' die very politely received and 
 put into his pocket. I regretted I had no 
 tracts to give him. They had been cruizing 
 off Cadiz, the Canary, Western, and Cape 
 de Verd Islands, and had captured twelve 
 Spanish and Portuguese vessels. They said 
 that probably, by that time, their republic 
 had been acknowledged by Great Britain 
 and the North American States. Most of us 
 expected they would have demanded our 
 live stock, and very probably other articles; 
 but the officer acted very handsomely, and 
 wishing us good day, returned to his ship, 
 when they made sail towards the south; 
 which was a very agreeable sight to us all, 
 because for some time we suspected they 
 were pirates. 
 
 The grandeur of the sea, from sunset to 
 midnight, far surpassed any thing of the kind 
 I had previously seen. The heavens being 
 covered with clouds, and no moon till mid- 
 night, rendered it very dark above us: yet so 
 luminous was the whole surface of the water, 
 that the light which it produced was nearly 
 equal to full moonlight. The wind blew 
 what the sailors call fresh, or strong, and the 
 sea ran high, owing to a heavy swell along 
 with the wind. By the dashing of the ship 
 through the waves, as if impatient to get 
 
256 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 home, white foam or spray was spread over 
 the water all round her, and so luminous that 
 the shadows of ropes, blocks, and yards were 
 distinctly seen upon the sails. The captain 
 advised me to go forward and look over the 
 bows, or fore part of the ship, where she 
 drives the water before her. The sight richly 
 compensated for the trouble of getting to it. 
 A blaze, as if of furious flame, appeared 
 bursting forth from under her. Every parti- 
 cle composing these apparent flames partook 
 of a brightness even whiter than the gas 
 flame, resembling snow when the meridian 
 sun shines down upon it in icy regions. Be- 
 hind the ship, to the distance of five or six 
 hundred yards, the sea was thickly spread 
 over with the same luminous brightness, and 
 long innumerable streaks of it were strewed 
 over the surface of the ocean in every direc- 
 tion to the edge of the horizon. 
 
 The whole scene appeared to me so grand 
 a display of the Creator’s power, that I found 
 it extremely difficult to tear myself away 
 from witnessing the sight, even after viewing 
 it for hours. After leaving it, once and 
 again, I could not but return to take another 
 and another look, uncertain if ever I should 
 witness the ocean in that state any more. 
 Where the sea was most agitated, the glory 
 of the appearance was greatest; indeed, the 
 sailors had sufficient light for every purpose 
 they required. Although it was now the 
 fourth time I had sailed between England 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 257 
 
 and the Cape of Good Hope, all former ap- 
 pearances of this nature which I had seen, 
 were but partial, compared to the magnifi- 
 cent splendour of the ocean on this occasion. 
 
 March 26. Very different was the even- 
 ing of this day compared to the former; true, 
 it had all the darkness in the heavens, with 
 a strong wind and heavy swell, but none of 
 that luminous appearance over the surface 
 of the water which afforded such high grati- 
 fication to the beholder; so that it must pro- 
 ceed from something else than the presence 
 of darkness, strong wind, and agitation of 
 the sea: perhaps, in addition to these, the 
 abounding of a blubber substance of a fishy 
 nature is necessary for its production, or pro- 
 bably large numbers of luminous animaculae. 
 
 April 1. The gale, which had continued 
 five days, we found had abated during the 
 night. We fell in with the Gulf of Florida 
 weed floating in the water, which is never 
 seen further south than this latitude, namely, 
 21 deg. n. 
 
 April 2. At one o’clock we crossed the 
 tropic of cancer, leaving behind us the whole 
 of the torrid zone, which we had entered on 
 the 22d of February. 
 
 April 3. On hooking up some of the gulf 
 weed, we found small crabs and shrimps at- 
 tached to it. Putting them into a basin, the 
 crabs attacked and killed the shrimps. The 
 destruction of life goes on every where, whe- 
 ther on sea or land. 
 
258 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 April 4. Such was the amazing increase 
 of the weed to-day, that the whole surface 
 of the ocean resembled a beautiful yellow 
 field, which pleased the eye b)' removing 
 the sameness of the scene. Ever since we 
 crossed the equator we have been obliged, 
 by the wind, to sail to the westward of north; 
 so that we are now 56 degrees of longitude 
 to the westward of the Cape of Good Hope, 
 and 39 degrees west of the longitude of Lon- 
 don. 
 
 April 7. Flying fishes continue to be 
 seen, though several hundred miles north of 
 the tropic. 
 
 April 11. The gulf weed disappeared 
 yesterday. At three p. m. we passed a very 
 large mast floating on the water; no doubt 
 it was the mast of some ship, which had 
 either perished or had been dismasted in a 
 heavy gale. 
 
 April 12. Great part of the water through 
 which we sailed in the morning was of a 
 light brown colour, as if there had been a 
 sand bank under us; which we supposed to 
 be caused by the spawn of fishes, as there 
 was no sand bank in that part. 
 
 At noon, our latitude was 35 deg. 18 min. 
 n., longitude 36 deg. 26 min. w. Thus, in 
 point of latitude, we had passed the whole 
 coast of Africa, and come opposite to the 
 coast of Spain, but far to the westward of it, 
 being nearly half way to Newfoundland. 
 
 For eight weeks have we been sailing, 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 259 
 
 night and day, opposite to the coast of Africa, 
 from the Cape of Good Hope to the north 
 end of Morocco, which impresses the mind 
 with the vast extent of that continent, and 
 the multitude of nations, or tribes, which 
 must dwell in it, almost all of whom are en- 
 veloped in the grossest ignorance: the very 
 names of most of these nations are unknown 
 to Europeans. What a field for the exertion 
 of Christian philanthropy! Many years must 
 revolve, and millions must perish, before the 
 least assistance can reach many of those na- 
 tions. 
 
 It afforded us much pleasure, at noon, 
 when it was announced that we were within 
 seventeen hundred miles of our port. 
 
 April 15. A great African woman, who 
 had the care of a child from Bombay, being 
 reproved for something, her temper rose and 
 raged; she spoke insulting and outrageous 
 language to the gentleman who had the 
 superintendence of the child; after which 
 she mounted the side railing of the ship, and 
 went down outside, in order to jump into 
 the sea, but was caught hold of by two sailors 
 who happened to be near, and dragged back 
 into the ship. She then spoke in the coarsest 
 manner, threatening what she would do 
 when she got to England. These people 
 pick up such ideas of English liberty, that 
 not a word can be borne by them after get- 
 ting on board of ship; however, this, upon 
 the whole, probably does more good than 
 
260 
 
 'VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 evil, in preventing oppression from the tyran- 
 nical. 
 
 April 1 6. The African woman, who threat- 
 ened to drown herself yesterday, asked par- 
 don for her rude behaviour to-day, when the 
 child was again restored to her care. She 
 had been very quiet from the time her pas- 
 sion was assuaged. 
 
 April 17. At one o’clock in the morning, 
 being full moon, the two most northerly of 
 the Western Islands were distinctly seen at 
 a few miles distance, Flores and Corvo. We 
 passed very near the latter, but a cloud cling- 
 ing to it, concealed the summits of its moun- 
 tains from our view. About a hundred and 
 fifty human beings are said to dwell on it, 
 all of whom were probably asleep while we 
 passed. As we were running eight miles 
 an hour at that time, no part of it was to be 
 seen when daylight appeared. From their 
 position on the globe, these islands must en- 
 joy one of the finest climates in the world. 
 Great part of the oranges consumed in Eng- 
 land are brought from them. 
 
 April 18. The wind blew hard all day, 
 which increased to a gale of wind towards 
 evening: but this, happily, being fair, drove 
 us ten miles an hour towards England. 
 
 We were too far to the north to see any 
 other of the Western Islands. These islands, 
 in their position, are almost at an equal 
 distance from Europe, Africa, and America: 
 to which of these three quarters of the world 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 261 
 
 they belong, I believe is not yet settled. It 
 is said they were first discovered by a Dutch 
 captain, who came in sight of them acci- 
 dentally; and that in going home he touched 
 at Lisbon, where he made no secret of his 
 discovery, but told it as a piece of news in 
 every company. On hearing of it, the Por- 
 tuguese immediately despatched a vessel to 
 take possession of them in the name of the 
 king of Portugal, in whose possession they 
 have remained ever since. They are sup- 
 posed to contain ninety thousand inhabitants. 
 
 April 19. I was awakened about midnight 
 by the increased rolling of the ship, and went 
 on deck about one in the morning. The sea 
 ran in huge masses, rendered peculiarly strik- 
 ing by a partial light from the moon through 
 thick watery clouds. The storm increased as 
 day approached, till it became what might 
 be called tremendous. My cabin floor was 
 soon covered with water, and part of the 
 bed soaked with it, the water forcing its way 
 through the seams between the planks of the 
 vessel. The storm continued during the day, 
 and in the evening its severity increased. 
 
 April 20. The storm continued during the 
 day, at times blowing in furious squalls, ac- 
 companied with hail, and sometimes sleet. 
 In the evening, furious squalls began to attack 
 us every ten minutes; the heavens were pe- 
 culiarly gloomy, and only the frothy, angry 
 tops of waves were visible around the ship. 
 
 Finding my cabin in such a state with wa- 
 23 
 
262 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 ter, that it seemed hazardous to sleep in it, I 
 got my mattress and bed clothes removed to 
 the floor of the cuddy, or room built on the 
 quarter deck, where the passengers dine. In 
 a corner of it I placed my mattress, and slept 
 soundly till midnight, when a severe squall 
 awoke me. In a few minutes, a huge wave 
 dashing against the stern part, those on deck 
 said, a large portion of it rose as high as the 
 mizzen mast yard, or about twenty-five feet 
 from the deck, which fell down with great 
 force, and rushing by the door into the cuddy, 
 ran like a little river alongside of my bed, 
 which I beheld by the light of the lamp. I 
 thoughtlessly looked at it as a novel sight, 
 while it ran, by the motion of the ship, three 
 times past the side of my bed; instead of in- 
 stantly moving the mattress from the floor to 
 the table. By this delay, every thing was so 
 drenched with water, that. I was obliged to 
 spend the rest of the night in an elbow chair. 
 From three to four o’clock in the morning, we 
 were struck with the uncommon fury of the 
 storm: indeed, I have seldom witnessed a 
 more tremendous storm ; but God preserved 
 our bark, though part of the bulwarks, or 
 close railing round the deck, was dashed in. 
 
 April 21. The storm continued the whole 
 day. From the morning we lay to, as it is 
 called, which is the last resource for preser- 
 vation. 
 
 April 22. The storm continues equally 
 violent, the heavens more gloomy, the air 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 263 
 
 very cold, and the wind driving us back 
 towards the south. The wet made an Indian 
 centipede, of about five inches long, leave its 
 refuge and crawl over my cabin floor. We 
 preserved it in spirits, and it is now in the 
 London Missionary Museum. 
 
 April 23. During the night, the wind was 
 somewhat moderated; but about eight in the 
 morning, it seemed to rally all its force, and 
 to rush forth with great fury, making all on 
 deck to reel to and fro; but towards evening 
 it seemed to have exhausted its main strength. 
 
 April 24. During breakfast, the officer 
 who commanded on deck, called to the cap- 
 tain at table, that it looked ivild to wind- 
 ward; on which the captain went out to view 
 it. Soon, they put the sails into the best po- 
 sition the art of seamanship could effect, to 
 meet a still more violent attack from the 
 raging elements. The ship was hardly put 
 into the state they wished her, before the 
 winds came upon the ship with double fury. 
 
 April 25. During the night, the fury of 
 the wind abated, and it being the time of the 
 moon’s entering her last quarter, we hoped 
 for a favourable change, but were disap- 
 pointed. During the day, the heavens re- 
 tained their wild appearance, nor was it a 
 mere threat; for no sooner had the sun re- 
 tired, than the winds attacked us with their 
 former violence. 
 
 Being able to take observations at noon, 
 
264 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 vve were glad to find that our seven days’ 
 storm had only driven us back about a hun- 
 dred and fifty miles. Our Indian cow, which 
 had supplied us with milk during the voyage, 
 died to-day, in spite of all the means used 
 for her preservation. Some goats and sheep 
 also died. The coldness of the wind, and the 
 dashing of the spray from the waves upon 
 them, must have hastened their death. 
 
 April 27. The wind yesterday and part 
 of to-day was more favourable, so that we 
 consider ourselves three or four hundred 
 miles to the westward of Cape Finisterre, at 
 which the Bay of Biscay commences. 
 
 April 30. Beating about the whole day; 
 the wind, as usual of late, being directly 
 against us. Next week is the week when 
 the annual meetings of the Missionary Society 
 take place. The captain and others, having 
 assured me it was impossible to reach Lon- 
 don by that time, I have said, “ The will of 
 the Lord be done,” and find my mind at 
 complete rest upon that matter; persuaded 
 that, were any valuable purpose to be an- 
 swered by my being at those meetings, the 
 Lord of the sea could easily command his 
 winds to effect it, and they would readily 
 obey him. 
 
 May 1. Great expectations of a change of 
 wind were expressed from the change of 
 moon, that was to take place to-day. How- 
 ever, the wind continued still adverse, and 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 265 
 
 some were saying how many guineas they 
 would give to be put ashore in twenty-four 
 hours; for the same wind was expected to 
 blow for seven days more, till another change 
 of the moon. Part of the wreck of a vessel 
 was seen about sunset, which probably hap- 
 pened during the late violent and protracted 
 storm. At nine o’clock at night, the wind 
 altered about a point in our favour. 
 
 May 2. Many whales amused us during 
 the day, by playing around us; sometimes 
 spouting up water to a great height, at other 
 times favouring us with a sight of as much 
 of their bodies as they could conveniently 
 show out of water. Also many porpoises 
 exerted themselves, as if to add to our en- 
 tertainment, by moving like wheels in the 
 water, at other times leaping up and plung- 
 ing into it again. All this went forward as 
 if to amuse us, while we were becalmed and 
 the ship lying like a log in the water. 
 
 May 4. At noon, we were nearly opposite 
 to Bordeaux, but far out at sea. 
 
 May 5. A fair wind now, driving us eight 
 miles an hour, and the vessel seems as if in 
 a hurry to reach England. A large ship, 
 outward bound, passed to leeward: the situ- 
 ation of the two ships was very different, she 
 being in the morning of her voyage, and we 
 in the evening of ours; some on board of her 
 still acutely feeling a late separation from 
 friends whom they may see no more; but in 
 
266 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 our ship, all were pleased with the prospect 
 of soon joining their friends, from whom they 
 have long been separated; they reflecting on 
 dangers they may have to encounter, we 
 grateful for preservation in dangers now 
 past. In the afternoon, the wind increas- 
 ing, our speed increased to ten and eleven 
 miles an hour. At ten at night, a heavy 
 squall blew our top-sail to pieces; on which 
 sailors, from different parts of the ship, called 
 out, “ The fore top-sail is gone!” I admired 
 the proper coolness of the captain on the oc- 
 casion, who laconically answered, “ Well, 
 take it in.” 
 
 May 6. At noon, it was found we had 
 sailed, during the last twenty-four hours, 
 upwards of two hundred miles. On finding 
 we had so favourable a run, the captain, 
 looking at me, said, “ Positively there is a 
 possibility that you may get to London to 
 that meeting, after all;” meaning the annual 
 meeting of the London Missionary Society. 
 
 May 7. At two o’clock, I was called to 
 the deck by the captain, who desired me to 
 look to a small sail in the south. I was 
 some time before I could distinguish it, in 
 consequence of the sea running rather high. 
 “ That is a pilot boat from England!” said 
 he: “ what has brought her so far out to sea, 
 I cannot tell; probably she is looking out for 
 Indiamen; but, could you get on board her, 
 she might be able to land you in Portsmouth 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 267 
 
 to-night.” I objected to the expense. How- 
 ever, the captain soon found two gentlemen 
 willing to bear more than their proportion of 
 it, who also were anxious to get on shore. 
 
 A signal was immediately made to the 
 pilot boat to come to us. On reaching near 
 us, our captain, through his speaking-trum- 
 pet, offered the pilot the sum we had pro- 
 posed, if he would take three persons to 
 Portsmouth; which he refused, and sailed 
 off: on which our captain bid him good day, 
 and coolly hung up his trumpet, saying, “ De- 
 pend upon it, he will accept the offer.” Be- 
 fore he had left us a mile, he turned about, 
 came again near us, and called out, “ I’ll 
 take it;” meaning what had been offered. 
 
 The master of the pilot boat, like our- 
 selves, was ignorant how far we were from 
 England, from the haziness of the weather 
 for some days, but supposed we might be 
 about a hundred miles. Owing to a swell, 
 the pilot boat could not approach near 
 enough to take us on board. The captain, 
 therefore, ordered down his own boat, into 
 which we got as well as the waves would 
 permit. On our departure, the captain as- 
 sured us the ship should not leave us till we 
 were safe into the other vessel. On advanc- 
 ing near it, there at first appeared no possi- 
 bility of venturing near enough, without 
 great danger of being sunk by a stroke from 
 her, our boat being small. A consultation 
 
268 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 was held for some time, without being able 
 to devise any method. At length, the mas- 
 ter proposed that one of us should stand in 
 the bow, or front of our skiff, and, on com- 
 ing within two feet of him, to take a leap ; 
 when he assured us he should catch hold of 
 his coat, and pull him in. As I was the pro- 
 poser of going on shore, I thought I should 
 make the first attempt to get into the boat in 
 this rather awkward way, in which attempt 
 I succeeded, without being drenched by the 
 waves. The others also getting in safely, 
 the Castle Forbes bid us adieu, and we 
 sailed off. 
 
 Though our new conductors did not know 
 their distance from Portsmouth, they hoped 
 to be able to land us there before midnight. 
 The wind being fair and strong, we went 
 forward at the rate of about eight miles an 
 hour. Daylight went away without our 
 seeing land; yet we continued often look- 
 ing in the direction of England, in hopes of 
 discovering some of the lights on shore, but 
 midnight came without our seeing any. 
 
 May 8. About two o’clock in the morn- 
 ing, so thick a fog arose that nothing could 
 be seen. At three o’clock, the master judged 
 it prudent not to proceed further till daylight, 
 lest we should come against some land in the 
 dark; wherefore we hove to, the sea dash- 
 ing over our deck. When the longed-for 
 morning arrived, we pressed forward again 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 269 
 
 with our former rapidity, but, owing to the 
 denseness of the fog, we could only see a 
 little way before us. About six a. m., the 
 fog began to rise above the water, and under 
 it we had the satisfaction to obtain a sight 
 of the west end of the Isle of Wight. In an 
 hour we commenced sailing alongside the 
 island. The greenness of the grass and of 
 the bushes near the beach was very beauti- 
 ful, and the sight delighted us much, which 
 was not surprising, considering that, for a 
 quarter of a year, we had been almost con- 
 stantly viewing the dull blue of the heavens 
 and the water. Through a glass we were 
 happy to be able to distinguish many of the 
 yellow and white field flowers, which great- 
 ly added to our enjoyment of the scene. The 
 fog also clearing up on our left, permitted us 
 once more to view Old England, which was 
 a delightful sight to us all. 
 
 At eight o’clock, we reached the harbour 
 of Portsmouth, when, after our persons were 
 examined, and our portmanteaus sent to the 
 custom house, we breakfasted in an inn, 
 Avhich stood on the beach looking into the 
 harbour, and no breakfast was ever better 
 relished; for we had forgotten to take a sin- 
 gle article of food with us from the ship, in 
 consequence of the attention of all being di- 
 rected to the difficulty of getting out of the 
 ship and into the pilot boat. 
 
 Not being able to get my portmanteau 
 soon enough through the custom house, 1 
 24 
 
270 
 
 VOYAGE FROM THE 
 
 lost a place in the morning coaches for Lon- 
 don; consequently, was obliged to wait until 
 the evening. However, I spent the day very 
 agreeably at Mr. Eastman’s, of Portsea, who 
 kindly furnished me with money to pay my 
 way; a sufficient quantity of which article I 
 had not brought from the Cape, as I expect- 
 ed to have landed in London. 
 
 I left Portsmouth at seven o’clock in the 
 evening, and reached London by seven next 
 morning, Wednesday, May 9. The first three 
 families on whom I called for admission, had 
 removed from the residences in which they 
 were when I left them in 1818; but happily 
 I found the fourth, namely, Mr. Houston, of 
 Little St. Helen’s, residing where I left him, 
 who gave me a hearty welcome. 
 
 Thus, after all the obstructions I had met 
 with, Providence permitted me to arrive in 
 time for the annual meetings of that society 
 for whose interests I had undertaken the 
 journey ; for the first of the meetings was not 
 to commence till ten o’clock that morning ; 
 but the meeting for business not being to be 
 held till the next day, and having had no 
 sleep for two nights, I did not attend it, but 
 wrote to the Rev. George Burder, the secre- 
 tary, informing him of my arrival. I then 
 went home to Kingsland, in order to be re- 
 freshed by a good sleep before the next 
 day’s meeting, where I arrived almost ex- 
 actly two years and a half after setting out, 
 without, I think, ten minutes’ sickness, either 
 
CAPE OP GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND. 271 
 
 by sea or land, during the whole journey, 
 for which I cannot be sufficiently thankful to 
 the God of providence and grace. 
 
 The Castle Forbes, which I left at sea, did 
 not reach London till about a fortnight after 
 my arrival. 
 
 THE END.