OF OUR 
 
Cibrarjp of the theological ^eminarp 
 
 PRINCETON • NEW JERSEY 
 •a@s> 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 The Estate of the 
 Rev. John B. Wie&inger 
 
 BV 2637 . B3 1891 
 Bailey, Wellesley Crosby, 
 1846- 
 
 The lepers of our Indian 
 1 empire 
 

 
 
 
 
THE LEPERS 
 
 OF 
 
 OUR INDIAN EMPIRE. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2016 
 
 https://archive.org/details/lepersofourindiaOObail 
 
A Scene in the Himalayas. 
 
 I ront. 
 
THE LEP 
 
 OUR INDIAN EMPIRE 
 
 A VISIT TO THEM IN 1890-91, 
 
 WELLESLEY C. BAILEY, 
 
 AUTHOR OF 
 
 “A Glimpse at the Indian Mission-Field and Leper Asylums." 
 
 “all power is given unto Me ... . 
 
 “Go ye therefore .... 
 
 “ Lo, I AM WITH YOU ALWAY.” 
 
 11 No one has any idea of the despair that enters the soul of a man 
 when he knows that he is a leper.” 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOHN F. SHAW AND CO., 
 
 48, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 
 HE following pages are made up of notes 
 
 -L hastily written by the way, enlarged and filled 
 in afterwards. 
 
 They have been prepared for the Press under 
 exceptional difficulties, owing partly to the pressure 
 of office duties, and partly to the great amount of 
 deputation work which fell to my lot on my return 
 home. 
 
 In order to secure accuracy I have, where possible, 
 sent my rough proofs to the friends about whose 
 stations I was writing. 
 
 I now submit the whole to the public, begging my 
 readers kindly to bear in mind that the book does 
 not aim at any literary merit ; it is simply a sketch 
 of a journey made on behalf of the lepers, with the 
 addition of a few personal observations on the 
 working of missions in general. 
 
 If any friends wishing further information on any 
 point will apply to me, I shall be glad to supply it 
 if in my power. 
 
 Wellesley C. Bailey. 
 
 17, Glengyle Terrace, Edinburgh. 
 Christmas , 1891. 
 
■ 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 — ♦ — 
 
 CHAPTER I. page 
 
 Edinburgh to Bombay . . . . . i 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Bombay to Rawal Pindee and Kashmir . . . 6 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Srinagar . . . ... 15 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Sealkote . . . ... 23 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Sealkote, Baba Lakhan, Jammoo, Wazirabad, and Gujrat 33 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Amritsar, Dalhousie, Chumba . . 40 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Dharmsala, Amritsar, Ambala . . 49 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Ambala, Subathu, Dehra . . 59 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Moradabad and Almora . . ... 69 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Almora and Chandausi . . ... 81 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 RurkI, SahAranpore, and Tarn TAran . . . 96 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 viii 
 
 CHAPTER XII. page 
 
 Tarn TAran, JandiAla, Lodiana, Allahabad, and 
 
 Purulia . . . . . Ill 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Purulia . . . ... 122 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 RAnchi and Lohardugga . . . . 130 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 RAnchi, Purulia, Asansol, Bhagulpore, and Calcutta 143 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Rangoon, Mandalay, and Maulmain . . .152 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Maulmain, Rangoon, Calcutta . ... 162 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Calcutta, Burdwan, Ranigunj, Asansol, and BhandAra 172 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Madras and Tinnevelli . . . . . 184 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Nagercoil and Neyoor . . . . 194 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Neyoor . . . ... 204 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Alleppey, Calicut, Bombay . . . .215 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Conclusion . . . ... 225 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Copy of proposed Leper Bill for India . . .231 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 Extracts from Printed Account of Meetings . . 235 
 
THE 
 
 Lepers of Our Indian Empire. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 EDINBURGH TO BOMBAY. 
 
 “ OD be with you till we meet again ! ” With these 
 VJT beautiful words my friends in Edinburgh sent me 
 on my way. 
 
 At midnight on the 2nd of October I left the Waverley 
 Station, and punctually at 3.15 p.m., on Friday, the 3rd of 
 October, we steamed out of Charing Cross, one man, a 
 police-officer, being very nearly left behind. The train had 
 started while he was still in close conversation with some of 
 his friends, and he had difficulty in getting in, as there was 
 a crowd on the platform, and he had his dog under his arm. 
 Why will there always be someone late? and will it be so 
 in graver matters than the catching of a train ? Aye, many 
 a golden opportunity is as nearly let slip as was that train. 
 Many, alas ! are let slip. The very moment the train is off 
 one notices that there is something different about our 
 passengers from the ordinary run of railway travellers. 
 Many of these men have the peculiarly dried-up, weather- 
 beaten appearance that one sees in faces that have been 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 WHAT BECAME OF THE OVERCOAT? 
 
 much exposed to an Indian sun, while the hair of many of 
 them is prematurely grey. But there is something else 
 which proclaims them as Anglo-Indians. The reserve of 
 the home life is already being broken through, the trammels 
 and restraints of home life are already being cast away. 
 This is more marked after we get on the Continent into the 
 train de luxe, and more marked still when we reach 
 Brindisi, and go on board our steamer. Why do so many 
 Anglo-Indians think it necessary the moment they step 
 from the shores of England to throw off what are con- 
 sidered to be, even by the average worldly man, necessary 
 and wholesome restraints, and to put on, as one might a 
 suit of clothes, a reckless manner ? Why is it necessary 
 to laugh at so much that we hold sacred in dear old 
 England ? 
 
 We had a good run down to Dover, but a heavy sea 
 awaited us. It was very rough all the way over, and some 
 of us found it very difficult to keep on our feet. Many 
 could not. 
 
 On reaching Calais we found our train awaiting us, and 
 going on board had dinner, all the Paris passengers being 
 still with us. Only those of us going to join the mail 
 steamer at Brindisi were allowed beds, the remainder 
 leaving us about eleven o’clock. I got to bed early, and 
 slept well for a time, but in the early morning felt cold ; 
 when on rousing myself, and looking about for my over- 
 coat, I found that another man had got it comfortably 
 rolled round him ! As he was fast asleep I had not the 
 heart to awaken him, and so had to endure the cold till it 
 was time to get up. We met the home-going mail about 
 half-way between Calais and Brindisi, and as both trains 
 slowed down, some of the passengers of our train were 
 able to converse with friends on the other train while we 
 leisurely passed each other. A lively tea-planter, my friend 
 of the topcoat, standing beside me, remarked dryly, “ There 
 
A BAY IN THE RED SEA. 
 
 3 
 
 they go, all money and no clothes; and here we go, all 
 clothes and no money.” 
 
 The second half of the railway journey was exceptionally 
 hot and trying. Punctually at 4 p.m., on the 5th, we 
 steamed into Brindisi, having accomplished the journey 
 from London, 1,450 miles, in 48! hours. We were not long 
 in getting on board and settling down on the Mirzapore, 
 which awaited us at the wharf. In a short time the mails 
 arrived, were counted on board, and we started for Port 
 Said. 
 
 We had a beautiful passage all the way to Bombay, and 
 would have made a very good run of it but for two slight 
 mishaps in the Canal. First we injured our rudder by 
 touching a sandbank in the Bitter Lake ; that detained us 
 six hours. After which we got on all right till we reached 
 the eightieth mile, when we found a small steamer, the 
 Olive Branch , lying aground right across the Canal. She 
 was scarcely received as a harbinger of peace, as she 
 detained us another twenty-four hours. 
 
 We had one or two very hot days in the Red Sea; a 
 description of one will suffice : 
 
 This is our hottest day, and it is hot. We all agree it is 
 hot. Even those who with an air of “ But I know better,” 
 have been hitherto saying, “You don’t call this hot, do you?” 
 are constrained to acknowledge the fact. I am sitting 
 under the punkah at the saloon table, and beside me is 
 a large tumbler of iced lemon squash from which I 
 occasionally sip through a straw — “a luxury,” say you; “a 
 necessity,” say I. On the table, a little higher up, are two 
 babies, lying stretched out like starfish; one of them, a 
 lovely boy of about two, seems to have gone completely 
 under to the heat. It is pitiful to see the poor children, 
 they are already quite washed out. Everyone is limp and 
 draggled-looking, grand toilets are given up, and people are 
 just trying to exist. 
 
4 
 
 ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY. 
 
 To me the voyage was a very pleasant one; there were 
 many missionaries on board ; Mr., Mrs., and Miss Huber, 
 C. M. S., going to Gaza; Miss Adie, to Nazareth; Mrs. 
 Scott and Mr. Kelly, to Delhi; Mr. and Mrs. Jeffrys, to 
 Madura; Mr. and Mrs. Leaf, also for Southern India; and 
 Miss Scorgie, going to the Church of Scotland Mission at 
 Sealkote. In the evenings we used to have hymn singing, 
 sometimes on deck, and sometimes in the second saloon. 
 The hymns seemed to have a great attraction for some 
 people, who would gather round to listen. My time was 
 fully occupied, as I had three Hindustani pupils. 
 
 The last Sunday before landing, by general desire, I gave 
 some account of the Leper Mission after evening service, 
 and was much cheered by receiving a kind gift of^io 
 from a friend on board. 
 
 We arrived at Bombay on Monday night, the 20th of 
 October, about eleven o’clock, and from then till midnight 
 the scene at the gangway was interesting and exciting in the 
 extreme. Our steamer lay at anchor some distance from 
 the shore, and the arrival being so late, those who were 
 expecting friends were quite in uncertainty up to the very 
 last moment. The interested parties — mostly wives returning 
 to their husbands, and in two instances fiancees coming out 
 to be married — were allowed first place round the gangway 
 by common consent, while the remainder of us were content 
 to take back seats on the piles of goods and baggage which 
 had been got out ready for landing, and look on at the fun. 
 As each head appeared above the gangway a look of 
 recognition would dart from some pair of eyes in the inner 
 circle, there would be an embrace or a silent pressure of the 
 hand, and the group at the gangway would be lessened by 
 two, who having met, ceased to have any special interest 
 for strangers, but who had retired into a quiet corner to 
 unburden their pent-up hearts to one another. As minute 
 after minute fled, and our group of expectants became less 
 
PRINCE OF PEACE. 
 
 5 
 
 and less, the strain and excitement was very apparent on 
 the faces of those who remained. At last, but one poor 
 white face was left, the owner of which had borne the 
 strain bravely, but had been unrewarded, and had to wait 
 till next morning before the tension was removed. 
 
 What a solemn study is the human heart; what joys and 
 sorrows lie hidden there ; what hopes and fears ; of what 
 wild agony it is capable ; and yet what a calm peace can 
 possess it if Jesus is King. He is Prince of Peace, and the 
 realm of His dominion is the human heart ; but how small 
 is the number of those, comparatively speaking, who allow 
 Him to enter in and reign. 
 
6 “ WOUNDED IN THE HOUSE OF HIS FRIENDS. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 BOMBAY TO RAWAL PINDEE AND KASHMIR. 
 
 October 21. Left Bombay at 9.30 p.m., and travelling 
 via Ahmedabad, Rewari, Hissar, Ferozepore, and Lahore, 
 reached Rawal Pindee on the evening of the 24th. Three 
 days and three nights in a train is not something to be 
 looked forward to with unmixed pleasure, and yet it is 
 wonderful how one gets used to these long Indian journeys. 
 This one too was not by any means without interest. I 
 had many pleasant companions, several being fellow-passen- 
 gers from the Mirzapore. Gradually these dropped off at 
 different stages of the journey, until at last at Lahore only 
 Miss Scorgie, who was going to join the Church of Scot- 
 land Mission at Sealkote, remained, and at Wazirabad she 
 also left, being met there by my old friends Rev. J. W. 
 Youngson, and Dr. Hutcheson. 
 
 Between Wazirabad and Rawal Pindee I met a gentleman 
 in the train — an official on the railway. He told me of 
 the great difficulty he had had in getting a native Christian 
 employed as a gatekeeper on the line, simply because the 
 man had been a sweeper (low caste) before his conversion. 
 He told me that officials will generally back out their 
 heathen employes in their bitter hostility to the native 
 Christians. Truly this is being “wounded in the house of 
 His friends,” His professed friends at all events. This same 
 gentleman told me of a native Christian whom he has had 
 in his employ for two years and a half, and said that a more 
 trustworthy servant he has never had. He told me also of 
 
GRACIOUS PROMISES. 
 
 7 
 
 how this man had withstood temptation when a gentleman 
 had offered him a “peg” (brandy and soda) because of 
 some extra work he had been doing ; the lad politely 
 declined, and said that he had not been in the habit of 
 taking any strong drink. Oh, professing Christians, in 
 heathen lands, or indeed in any land, why will ye thus 
 throw temptation into the way of these “little ones”! The 
 value of the above information consists in the fact that it 
 came out in ordinary conversation, and was quite unsolicited. 
 
 On arrival at Rawal Pindee I was most kindly received 
 by the Rev. J. F. Ullmann, the second senior missionary of 
 India, having been fifty-one years in the mission field, the 
 senior being the Rev. John Newton, * of Lahore, who is 
 now in his fifty-sixth year. Mr. Ullmann is now seventy- 
 three years of age, but is still full of work. 
 
 On going into my bedroom the first word I got was, “ I 
 will pour water on him that is thirsty” — a very precious 
 promise to begin this tour with. 
 
 October 25. This morning I got this message, “Lo, I 
 am with you alway, even unto the end of the world ; ” and 
 again, “ The counsel of the Lord it shall stand.” Surely 
 thus fortified I may go forward. Yes, He is counsellor ; 
 may we be in such a teachable spirit as to be able to 
 receive and act upon His counsel. And let us remember; 
 that it is not our scheming and planning that will stand, 
 but His counsel. How often we are taught this by bitter 
 experience, and yet we will scheme and plan and build' 
 again, only to have it all blown upon and thrown down. 
 
 In the evening I visited the Leper Asylum here with 
 Mr. Ullmann and Dr. Kali Nath. There are two barracks 
 with rooms back and front, about twelve rooms in each ; 
 and six square mud buildings with four rooms in each. 
 
 * This veteran has since been called to his rest, leaving Mr. Ullmann 
 as senior missionary for India. 
 
8 
 
 LEPER ASYLUM \ RAIVAL PhXDEE. 
 
 One of these latter blocks is given up to servants. The 
 mud buildings will probably fall in before long if not kept 
 in repair. There are forty-three inmates on the roll, of 
 whom twenty-three are men, and twenty are women, and 
 there is one leper child, a boy of about eight years. It is 
 not often that one finds the women in an asylum so nearly 
 equal in number to the men. All the inmates are Mahom- 
 medans, except one woman who is a Hindu. There are 
 four children with no appearance of the disease, all very 
 young, living with their parents, three with mothers, and 
 one with its father; these mothers and that father are all 
 lepers, far advanced, bad cases. There were, besides those 
 on the roll, nine other lepers who come there to sleep at 
 night, but who beg about during the day. These nine are 
 not regularly admitted, and get no help, as they are not 
 belonging to the Rawal Pindee or Poonch districts, and 
 the asylum is only for the lepers of those districts. The 
 asylum, such as it is, is supported by the Municipal and 
 District Committees; three rupees a month are given to 
 each adult, a suit of clothes in the summer, and a rasai or 
 blanket in the winter. They also get a bedstead each, 
 and cooking utensils. All the inmates are in a truly 
 pitiable condition, all, with one or two exceptions, far 
 advanced cases. Very little is being done to relieve them 
 physically. An unutterably sad expression appeared on the 
 faces of all. And one young woman, about twenty -four 
 years of age, who has been twelve or thirteen years a leper, 
 struck Mr. Ullmann and me especially ; there was a look of 
 the most abject despair written on that poor young face, a 
 “ bonnie ” face too. We came away from the place feeling 
 terribly sad. There were some cases of dreadful suffering, 
 a woman with an abscess in the breast, and a man with the 
 same thing in his ear, and all of them in such filth. Noth- 
 ing is being done to comfort them — no one to tell them of 
 the love of Christ. Oh, how it wrings one’s heart ! Some 
 
AN ANSWER TO PR A YER. 
 
 9 
 
 of them followed us with their piteous tales of suffering and I 
 wrong, but, alas ! we were helpless. Oh that the Lord 
 would charge some Christian heart in this place so full 
 with His own love and sympathy that it would overflow 
 to these poor sufferers ! The native doctor told me that 
 no money is now being spent upon the place, as the Com- 
 mittee are waiting to see what will be the decision of 
 Government regarding an asylum for Rawal Pindee. 
 
 October 26. I cannot get those poor people of yesterday 
 out of my mind, their faces seem to haunt me. May God 
 grant us increased funds that we may be able to multiply 
 the number of our leper asylums all over the country. 
 Last night before dropping off to sleep I prayed that the 
 Lord would put it into the hearts of some of His people 
 in Pindee to care for the lepers, and how graciously has 
 that prayer been answered. How fully has that verse been 
 fulfilled, “ When the poor and needy seek water and there j\ 
 is none, and their tongue faileth for thirst, I the Lord will - j 
 hear them.” I could not get their awful condition, and 
 those woebegone faces, out of my mind. As I lay down 
 last night I said, “ Lord, thou knowest the heart that is to 
 feel for these lepers, put it into that heart to do some- 
 thing;” and He has done it, blessed be His holy name. 
 Mr. Ullmann has been greatly touched by the sight he saw 
 yesterday, and just now he came to me and said that he 
 felt he must try and do something for the poor sufferers. 
 That young woman’s face, he says, he cannot get out of 
 his mind, it seems to haunt him. Mr. Ullmann has a very 
 high opinion of the native pastor here, Mr. Ralla Ram, 
 and says he is a very devoted man, and will, he knows, 
 gladly help in this work. So he and Mr. Ralla Ram are to 
 visit the asylum regularly. Thank God ! this is an answer 
 to many prayers. 
 
 October 27. Monday. Left Rawal Pindee in a tonga 
 drawn by two ponies at 6-45 a.m., and reached Murree at 12, 
 
10 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO SRINAGAR. 
 
 having stopped about half an hour at a place called Tret 
 to get some breakfast. The journey to Murree is thirty- 
 eight miles. Changed tongas at Murree and left again 
 immediately. From Murree to Kohala on the Jhelum is a 
 continuous descent of 27^ miles. I reached there at 3.30 
 p.m., very tired ; had something to eat and a rest, and left 
 again at 4.35. The road from Murree to Kohala is in parts 
 very dangerous for a conveyance drawn by horses, the 
 gradient in some places very steep, and the turns very 
 sharp. Immediately on leaving Kohala you cross the 
 Jhelum over -a very good bridge, for which there is a toll 
 charge of one rupee ; you are then in Kashmir territory. 
 The road from Kohala to Dulai, the next stage, is a very 
 good one and level. From Kohala until you reach Bara- 
 mulla the new road follows the course of the Jhelum, and 
 you can see the river almost all the way. 
 
 Reached Dulai Dak Bungalow at 6.5 in the evening, 
 thus making 77J miles travelled by tonga to-day. The 
 tonga is somewhat like an English “ Croydon ” cart, only 
 stronger and with a pole instead of shafts. There is a 
 large awning-like cover to keep the sun off. The best seat 
 is -with the driver in front, and by putting the baggage in 
 behind, and allowing the sais (horse-keeper) to sit along 
 with it, a nice comfortable balance is effected. The scenery 
 so far is tame for the Himalayas. 
 
 October 28. Left Dulai at 7.40 this morning, and arrived 
 at Garhi, after a very pleasant drive, at 10.30. We passed 
 Domel Bungalow at the ninth mile from Dulai and twenty- 
 first from Kohala. The Domel Bungalow seems a good 
 one ; it is prettily situated a little above the river, close to 
 where the Kishn Ganga joins it. The distance from 
 Domel to Garhi is 13 J miles. The road is good all the way. 
 We travel all the time with two ponies, getting a fresh 
 pair at every stage, the length of a stage depending on the 
 condition of the road to be travelled. The average rate of 
 
A CRITICAL MOMENT. 
 
 ii 
 
 the journey is about eight miles an hour, including stop- 
 pages for changing the horses. The Dak Bungalow at 
 Garhi is first-rate, clean, well furnished, and beautifully 
 situated. Dulai Bungalow, under present management, is 
 to be avoided, the servants there are the personification of 
 the concentrated essence of filth, and the food is very poor. 
 
 We left Garhi at 10.50 a.m., and the next place we 
 passed was Hati, where there is a Bungalow; but as we 
 passed under it, and I had no occasion to stop, I did not 
 see it. It is about twelve miles from Garhi. After this we 
 came to Chakoti, only nine miles from Hati. Between 
 Hati and Chakoti the road was bad, dangerous in some 
 places. The Chakoti Bungalow stands a little above the 
 road. I did not go up to it, and was not taken by its 
 appearance. From Chakoti to Uri is thirteen miles. I 
 arrived at 4.45 p.m. and put up for the night in the 
 Bungalow, a wretched place ; but there is a new one being 
 built close by. This is a good situation for a rest-house, 
 and will be a nice place to put up for the night when the 
 new bungalow is ready. There is a post and telegraph 
 office. There is a very good ground for camping, a large 
 plateau, with a fine view of a snow-covered mountain at 
 one side, and the river running at the base of the plateau. 
 I have travelled 54J miles to-day, making the distance from 
 Rawal Pindee 134. We passed some very bad bits of road 
 since leaving Chakoti ; one place where an ekka went over 
 a short time since, when two men and the horse were 
 killed. In another place our horses stopped dead and 
 began to jib. There was nothing between us and the 
 precipice, not even a stick or a stone. I was preparing to 
 jump out when the horses started off again; the sensations 
 were not pleasant. 
 
 October 29. Left Uri at 8 a.m., and travelled to Ram- 
 pore, 13 J miles, through the most varied and beautiful 
 scenery — magnificent mountain gorges, well wooded, and 
 
12 
 
 EMBARRASSING A TTENTIONS. 
 
 the river winding gracefully below us all the way. Rampore 
 Bungalow is a long barrack of a place. But in such 
 surroundings who would trouble about the appearance of 
 the house which gives them shelter? There is a post and 
 telegraph office here, and provisions are obtainable. After 
 having some chhoti hazri, I again started, and found there 
 was a continuation of the beautiful scenery all the way to 
 Baramulla — sixteen miles — which place I reached at 12.30. 
 This is 98 miles from Kohala, and 163I- from Rawal 
 Pindee. There is at present no Dak Bungalow at Bara- 
 mulla, as it was thrown down flat in the earthquake of 
 1885. It was necessary therefore either to go at once on 
 board a boat or to continue my journey on horseback, the 
 road being no longer suitable for tongas. The boat is the 
 more usual way, but takes a long time — about 48 hours — 
 at this season of the year, as the river is very low. Those 
 who choose the boat must go on board immediately, and 
 live and sleep on it. The boats are comfortable, have a 
 sleeping-place and protection from the sun, and the head 
 man can usually cook fairly well. It is only 34 miles by 
 road to Srinagar, and many would elect to take that route 
 but for the difficulty of procuring anything to ride. The 
 moment I alighted from my tonga I was besieged by boat- 
 men, each one claiming the superiority of his boat, and 
 each one thrusting his certificates at me. At last it became 
 so bad that I was obliged to face round and stand at bay, 
 flourishing my stick in front of me, and threatening to tear 
 up the first certificate that should be put into my hand. 
 Finally, seeing I was determined, they gave it up, and left 
 me in peace. I then went to the post-office, and found 
 there a kind telegram from Dr. Neve, medical missionary 
 at Srinagar, saying that I was to come on by road to Pattan 
 —sixteen miles — and there I would find a small tent, a 
 servant, and a horse. The next thing was to procure a 
 horse to take me to Pattan, but apparently no such thing 
 
A DIMINUTIVE STEED. 
 
 13 
 
 was to be had. After a little I met a respectable native, 
 who told me that the Tahsildar (a native official) was in a 
 tent close by, and that if I would go to him he would 
 probably get me a pony. So over I went, and making my 
 salam to the Tahsildar, told him my difficulty, and asked 
 him if he could help me. He was very kind, and after a 
 little procured me a pony and two coolies to carry my 
 baggage. When the pony came I was aghast. It reminded 
 me of the miniature donkey which the “Cherry Blossom” 
 Company were exhibiting at the late Edinburgh Exhibition 
 as the smallest donkey in the world ; and I felt that, as 
 Paddy would say, “ But for the pride of the thing, I might 
 as well be walking.” I ventured to suggest to the Tahsildar 
 that the pony looked very small, and that I was a big man ; 
 but he at once reassured me, told me that my fears were 
 groundless (they were certainly not that, as it was the 
 ground I was thinking about), and that the pony would 
 carry me well. Accordingly I mounted — not a very difficult 
 matter — and found myself on a native saddle which was 
 too small for me. There was nothing for it, however, but 
 to make a start, and so off I went, followed by a native, 
 who drove the little animal from behind, after the manner 
 of an Egyptian donkey-boy. It was undignified, to say the 
 least, but there was no help for it. The road was very 
 level, and the small creature carried me wonderfully. When 
 I had got a little more than half-way I heard the noise of 
 hoofs behind me, and on looking back, I saw a cavalcade 
 of native gentlemen coming along at a rapid pace. They 
 were well-mounted, and would probably have passed me at 
 once, and left me far in the rear, but that their politeness 
 would not permit of their doing so. They slackened their 
 pace, and we got into conversation. After a while I 
 requested them not to wait for me, as I could go but 
 slowly ; whereupon one of them said that he had a spare 
 horse, and if I would be so kind as to mount it he would 
 
14 
 
 A WONDROUS SCENE. 
 
 be very pleased. After a little polite fencing I was “ so 
 kind,” and, with many thanks, got on to a fine strong 
 “ Yarkundi,” and a comfortable, well-padded native saddle. 
 The change was a most agreeable one, and made consider- 
 able difference to me. We all then rode on together, and 
 after a short time arrived at Pattan, where I found Dr. 
 Neve’s little tent already pitched, a man and horse, and 
 table servant with provisions. This man gave me without 
 any delay a delicious cup of tea, and then set about pre- 
 paring my dinner. After dinner I turned in for the night. 
 And, oh, how cold it was ! so much so, that I did not dare 
 to undress, simply took off my overcoat, put on a dressing- 
 gown over my clothes, got under all the wraps I had with 
 me, including the overcoat, and was soon off to sleep. 
 
 October 30. This morning when I went outside the tent 
 what a sight met my gaze ! On my left hand was the 
 crimson glow of the approaching sun ; on my right, and 
 high up, was the clear, silvery moon ; in front of me was a 
 mountain-peak clad in virgin white snow; and this peak 
 peeped out from between trees of the most exquisite 
 autumn tints of crimson, and dark green, and gold. This 
 formed a lovely foreground ; while at my feet was a carpet 
 of glistening hoar frost. “ These are Thy works, O God.” 
 In a second or so the scene was completed by the first 
 rays of the rising sun falling athwart the white snow-cap. 
 I held my breath in awe and wonder as I gazed on the 
 marvellous scene. The autumn tints in this valley just 
 now are the most varied and beautiful, I think, that I have 
 ever seen anywhere. I was soon in the saddle and away, 
 and after a long ride of eighteen miles, arrived at Dr. 
 Neve’s house about 11.30. I cannot but feel deeply 
 sensible of the Lord’s goodness to me on this trip, in the 
 way in which He raised up those friends for me amongst 
 those native gentlemen, first at Baramulla, and afterwards 
 on the road to Pattan. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Poplar Avenue, Srinagar. Page 15. 
 
MEDICAL MISSION HOSPITAL, SPINA CAP. 
 
 IS 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SPINA GAP. 
 
 October 30. On arrival at the Mission House, the Rev. 
 Mr. Coverdale, of the C. M. S., who is on a visit here, - 
 kindly got me some breakfast, as Dr. Neve was out. Dr. 
 Ernest Neve is away in camp in the direction of Islamabad 
 and will not, I fear, be back before I leave, so I shall not 
 see him. 
 
 After breakfast I walked over to the Medical Mission 
 Hospital, where I was very heartily welcomed by Dr. Neve, 
 whom I found busy amongst his patients. He is engaged 
 just now in rebuilding a great portion of the hospital, and 
 in erecting an eye ward. 
 
 I am struck by the thorough way in which the Bible 
 teaching is done in this hospital. Dr. N. and his helpers 
 have a syllabus which is regularly gone through in each 
 ward. Just now it is the life of Christ which is being 
 taught. This plan secures continuity of teaching, and in 
 this way any patient who has been for a few weeks in the 
 hospital must have some little consecutive knowledge of 
 leading Bible facts. 
 
 Srinagar is quite different from anything I have seen in 
 India. Its lagoons remind me of the Backwater. Its 
 lovely poplar avenues are the finest in the world. There is 
 one avenue, some distance from here, which is said to be 
 ten miles long. The city is a kind of Venice in its way, 
 except that the houses here are very dilapidated, and have 
 a tumble-down appearance. One rows about the lakes and 
 
i6 
 
 LEPER ASYLUM FOR SRINAGAR. 
 
 canals and through the streets just as one reads of people 
 doing in Venice. 
 
 After tiffen Dr. Neve took me to see the site for the new 
 Leper Asylum. It is a most suitable one ; the ground on 
 which it stands is a kind of peninsula, running out amidst 
 the lagoons, and touching at one point the Great Lake. 
 On the north-east side there is a semicircle of magnificent 
 mountains, which most of the houses are to face. The 
 lepers here will be well away from other people and yet 
 within easy reach, either by land or by water. We went by 
 boat, an hour’s most enjoyable row. Dr. Neve, who has 
 been given entire management of the place for five years, 
 and is to be allowed to put up the Asylum according to his 
 own ideas, and to carry on the institution as he thinks best, 
 is putting up buildings to accommodate thirty patients. For 
 this he has received 5,000 rupees from the State for buildings, 
 and is to have 2,000 rupees a year to carry on the Establish- 
 ment. This is, I think, a most handsome offer on the part 
 of the State, and deserves to meet with success. It was, I 
 believe, originally intended that the Asylum should be a 
 State concern, that is, managed by State officials ; but in 
 some wonderful way, unsought for by Dr. Neve himself, 
 the management of the place has been offered to him, and 
 he has accepted it. This is a matter for congratulation, 
 as, apart from the religious aspect of the question, leper 
 asylums can be better carried on by medical missionaries 
 than by anybody else, especially when the asylum is to be 
 on the voluntary principle : the leper, above all people, 
 I needs one to deal with him who has a heart surcharged 
 with sympathy. The place where the asylum is being 
 built is called Bahra; on the ground is a magnificent 
 chunar tree, just now clothed in crimson, which will be a 
 great boon to the inmates. The buildings are already well 
 under way, and are being constructed to provide for 
 thirty inmates to begin with. There is a central building 
 
THE JOHN BISHOP MEMORIAL HOSPITAL. 17 
 
 which is pucca (permanent), and is to be double-storied ; 
 above will be rooms for Dispensary, &c., &c., and below 
 will be two wards to contain four beds each, for bad 
 cases. On either side of this central building are three 
 rooms, 12x9x9 feet high, for men. Besides these rooms 
 three others are being built for women at some distance, 
 and flanking the others. The women’s rooms are to be 
 12 x 12.^ 
 
 Dr. Neve is deeply interested in the work, both from a 
 medical and from a missionary point of view ; indeed, as a 
 medical man he is now an acknowledged authority on the 
 subject of leprosy. His intention is to receive the lepers 
 first at his own Dispensary, and then, after he has taken 
 notes of their cases, to send them down at once by boat 
 to Bahra. 
 
 There are only three lepers here at present, one of them 
 being one of the two lately baptised ; he is a nice, bright 
 fellow, wonderfully cheerful, and always has a smile for you : 
 he is a bad case of tubercular leprosy. 
 
 October 31. Friday. After breakfast visited the John 
 Bishop Memorial Hospital for Women, the gift of Mrs. 
 Bird Bishop, who recently visited this place, and was 
 so struck with the need of such a hospital that she has 
 given this one in memory of her late husband, Dr. Bishop, 
 of Edinburgh. Miss Rainsford, of the C. E. Z. M. S., 
 kindly took me to see it, and explained everything. It is 
 a fine building, just finished, but not yet occupied. It is in 
 charge of Dr. Jane Haskew, of the I. F. N. S. Society, 
 who was kindly lent by her Committee for a short while to 
 take the place of the late lamented Dr. Fanny Butler, until 
 the C. E. Z. M. could supply another lady doctor. The 
 I. F. N. S. Society is very strong in lady doctors, having 
 
 * As we go to press we hear that the buildings are completed, and 
 that there are already 24 inmates. 
 
 C 
 
iS 
 
 FULLY- QUALIFIED LADY DOCTORS. 
 
 now, I believe, as many as six fully-qualified ladies in the 
 field. And in this they certainly show their wisdom. I 
 have no hesitation in saying that every Female Medical 
 Mission must have a fully-qualified lady doctor at its head. 
 Half-trained ladies will make good assistants, but they 
 should never be allowed to assume medical responsibility; 
 and indeed if they are sensible women they will not take 
 such responsibility on themselves. Miss Haskew is assisted 
 in her work by Miss Newman, a trained lady nurse, and 
 Miss Rainsford. Besides the fine hospital buildings, there 
 is a good two-storied house being built in the same com- 
 pound for the use of the ladies. Both are pleasantly 
 situated on the banks of the Apple Tree Canal.* Miss 
 Rainsford was most kind in explaining everything, and just 
 before I left Miss Haskew arrived ; she had been in the city 
 visiting one of her patients. Miss Hull is at the head of 
 the Zenana work here; she is a worker of many years’ 
 experience. A charming little booklet written by her, 
 entitled, Itineration in the Villages of Kashmir , is well 
 worth reading. 
 
 From the Ladies’ Hospital I rode on to Dr. Neve’s, over 
 which there floats the banner of the red cross, and was just 
 in time to hear him give his address to the out-patients. He 
 spoke on the parable of the tares and the wheat, and 
 although he spoke in Kashmiri, I could quite catch the 
 drift of what he said. I was struck by the close attention 
 of his audience, mostly Mahommedans. 
 
 It is of great importance that the preaching should be 
 done by the medical missionary himself, or that he should 
 take a very leading part in it. If he should relegate it to 
 
 * I grieve to say that since my return to England I have heard that 
 all these buildings have suffered considerably by a most unusually high 
 flood. The C. M. S. Intelligencer says, “ Grievous damage has been 
 done to the John Bishop Hospital and Dispensary, the latter has been 
 washed down, and the property ruined to the extent of Rps. 1500.” 
 
A SUCCESSFUL OPERATION. 
 
 19 
 
 some of his subordinates, the patients will just receive it as 
 a disagreeable dose to be taken before being admitted to 
 the consulting-room, but if it is the same hand which gives 
 the medical relief that breaks to them the “ Bread of life,” 
 the patients will be quick to discern the connection between 
 the two, and they will gladly receive both at the same hand, 
 while at the same time their hearts will be more open to 
 accept the teaching. 
 
 As soon as the address was over, the patients w T ere 
 brought into the consulting-room one by one and prescribed 
 for. One had to have an operation — a woman with an 
 immense tumour on her shoulder. The doctor kindly 
 allowed me to witness the operation, and to me, who had 
 only once before been present at anything of the kind, the 
 skilful way in which he operated was very wonderful. The 
 tumour was a very large one, and had got right down to the 
 bone, and yet in twenty minutes all was finished, and the 
 patient resting quietly in bed. I saw her afterwards, and 
 she smiled at me, and seemed so grateful. What an 
 influence for good it will be in this woman’s village when 
 she returns there and tells of the wonderful Doctor Sahib, 
 and of the kindness she received at the Mission Hospital. 
 Her son was standing by during the operation, and was 
 much moved, crying quietly all the time ; he, too, will have 
 his story to tell. And may we not hope that the hearts of 
 both will be touched by the gospel message that they will 
 hear from day to day whilst in the hospital. 
 
 In the afternoon I ascended the Takht-i-Sulaiman hill 
 with Mr. Coverdale. It was a pretty stiff climb, but the 
 magnificent panorama which lay at our feet, when the top 
 was reached, well repaid us for our trouble. There is a 
 temple at the top, for which a new idol had been brought, 
 and this new arrival lay wrapped up in sacking just below 
 the temple : it had not yet been put into position. It did 
 seem so strange to see the helpless thing lying there. 
 
20 
 
 THE BOYS’ SCHOOL, SRINAGAR. 
 
 There was not a soul to be seen, the caretaker of the 
 shrine having apparently deserted his post, so that had we 
 wished to be Iconoclasts there was nothing to prevent us. 
 
 November i. Saturday. After breakfast rode over to see 
 the Boys’ Mission School, calling for Mr. Knowles on the way. 
 We went through the Residency grounds, in which there is 
 a very fine house, and a very handsome porch with some 
 good carving on it. It is well worth a visit. We went for 
 a considerable distance, Air. Knowles walking and I riding, 
 till we reached the river, when we got into a boat and went 
 the rest of the way by water, my horse being sent round by 
 road. After about twenty minutes’ very picturesque row, 
 in the course of which we had caught a glimpse of the 
 Maharaja’s palace, our boat stopped at the bottom of a 
 flight of steps which we ascended to the school. On 
 arrival Mr. Knowles gave the boys an address on the 
 “ Sermon on the Mount,” and then opened -with prayer — 
 all in Hindustani, after which the boys dispersed to their 
 various classes. Mr. Knowles kindly allowed me to have 
 the senior class in Bible lesson. I found them very intelli- 
 gent, and they seemed greatly interested in the way in 
 which I took the class, my plan being to ask them general 
 questions arising out of the lesson, rather than confine 
 them closely to the text. This class is taught by Mrs. 
 Knowles, and is the only instance that I know of a class of 
 senior native heathen lads being taught by a lady. It is an 
 interesting experiment, and will, I trust, be very successful. 
 It must certainly be good for these lads to be brought close 
 into contact with a refined English lady, to feel her 
 influence, and to learn to respect her, and woman generally 
 through her. I grieve to say that Mrs. Knowles is very 
 seriously ill just now, which casts a cloud over my other- 
 wise very happy visit to Kashmir. 
 
 As we went over to the school to-day, Mr. Knowles told 
 me that he has on several occasions taken some of the 
 
A TALK WITH THE LEPERS. 
 
 21 
 
 poor lepers out for a row in a boat, and that in this way he 
 has had good opportunities of having close personal dealing 
 with them. He says they seem to enjoy an outing of this 
 sort very much. 
 
 After leaving Mr. Knowles I rode round to the “ Bara 
 Masjid,” thence to the Leper Asylum, and then on to the 
 Chunar Bagh, where I joined Mr. and Miss Coverdale, 
 Dr. Neve, and the Mission ladies, in a very enjoyable 
 picnic under the magnificent chunar trees, and on the edge 
 of the large lake. Miss Gow (who is on a visit here just 
 now), Mr. Coverdale, and I returned home by boat, and had 
 a most delightful row, and the others of the party went 
 by road. 
 
 November 2. Sunday. Went to morning service in the 
 little church at the hospital : it was conducted in Hindustani 
 by Mr. Knowles. In the afternoon I attended a second 
 Hindustani service in the same place, conducted by two 
 native Christians, of whom one read the lessons and 
 preached, and the other read the prayers. The sermon 
 was very fair, and the service was nicely conducted. After 
 this service I visited the three lepers at the leper ward, 
 accompanied by Dr. Thomas, native Christian doctor, and 
 assistant to Dr. Neve, and had a talk with them. The 
 Lord opened my mouth, my Hindustani came back to me, 
 and I was enabled to speak to them for some time. Ala- 
 ud-din, the Christian, seemed to appreciate what I said, as 
 every now and then when I spoke of his privileges a bright 
 smile would break across Lis intelligent face, and he would 
 say, “Han sahib” (Yes, sir). And again, as I spoke of his 
 responsibilities his face had a sober, solemn look. He went 
 away a short time ago, after having become a Christian. 
 This caused us all not a little anxiety, and we are much 
 relieved at his return. Both Dr. Neve and Mr. Knowles 
 speak very well of him. A couple of days ago Dr. Neve 
 sent him and the other two lepers over to see their 
 
22 
 
 SRINAGAR TO RAWAL PIN DEE. 
 
 new home being built, and all came back highly pleased 
 with it. 
 
 November 3. Monday. Left Srinagar this morning at 7.23 
 on Dr. Neve’s pony, and rode to Pattan, eighteen miles, 
 where I breakfasted on the roadside, and changed horses, 
 getting as my second mount a pony of Mr. Knowles, 
 which he had kindly sent on for me. Rode on then to 
 Baramulla, sixteen miles, which place I reached at 3.23, 
 exactly eight hours from Srinagar. A boat would probably 
 have taken two days. I left Baramulla as soon as ever my 
 tonga could be got ready, and travelled on to Rampore, 
 sixteen miles, arriving at 5.20, and put up there for the 
 night. 
 
 November 4. Tuesday. Left early in the tonga, and, 
 travelling all day, got to Kohala, where I have stopped for 
 the night. 
 
 November 5. Wednesday. I left Kohala early this morn- 
 ing, breakfasted at Murree, and reached Rawal Pindee at 
 4 p.m. I have thus taken three days from Srinagar to 
 Rawal Pindee. A man can do the whole journey in this 
 time very easily, provided he gets well “horsed” from 
 Srinagar to Baramulla, but it would be too fast for a lady 
 and children. 
 
 I spent a couple of very pleasant hours with Mr. 
 Ullmann at Rawal Pindee, and started by the 4.50 p.m. 
 train for Sealkote. 
 
THE MISSIONS OF SEALKOTE. 
 
 23 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SEALKOTE. 
 
 November 6. Thursday. Arrived at Sealkote at 5 this 
 morning, and found the Youngsons’ horse and trap awaiting 
 me. On my arrival at the Mission Bungalow at 5.30 Mrs. 
 Youngson and Dr. Hutchison, who now lives with the 
 Youngsons, were both up to meet me : it was exceedingly 
 kind of them. Mr. Youngson was away in Lahore on 
 business. 
 
 The missionaries of the Church of Scotland here at 
 present are Mr. and Mrs. Youngson, Dr. Hutchison, 
 Medical Missionary, Mr. and Mrs. Waugh, Miss Plumb, 
 and Miss Scorgie ; the two last named being the represen- 
 tatives of the Ladies’ Association, Aberdeen Auxiliary. 
 
 The American United Presbyterian Mission is in strong 
 force in Sealkote, and has, like the Church of Scotland, 
 been very successful in its work. The present missionaries 
 are Dr. and Mrs. Stuart, Mr. Lytle, Miss White, m.d., Miss 
 Gordon, and other ladies. The following extract from the 
 Punjab Mission News regarding the last report of the 
 American United Presbyterian Mission will give some idea 
 of the extent of the work which these brethren are carrying 
 on, and of the encouragement which they receive : 
 
 “The annual report of the American U. P. Mission, which 
 has just reached us, is a model of concise and lucid 
 arrangement, and is supplemented by tables which give at 
 a glance an insight into the statistics of 8 Mission Districts, 
 including 535 towns and villages inhabited by a Christian 
 
24 
 
 A COMMUNION ROLL OF 6,677. 
 
 population of 10,162. Of these, 4,486 are enumerated as 
 average attendants at the principal service, and the extra- 
 ordinary total of 6,677 as communicants. Two districts, 
 however, send in incomplete returns of average attendances, 
 so that the disproportion between worshippers and com- 
 municants is not so startling as it is made to appear. We 
 are aware of the great difficulty of gathering the villagers 
 together for service, except on such great occasions as 
 an administration of the Lord’s Supper; but when we 
 remember that the average attendances include a large 
 proportion of children, and that the total Christian com- 
 munity is 10,162, the communicants’ roll of 6,677 ' v 'h 
 astonish high and low Churchmen alike. In fact in some 
 stations, especially near Sealkote itself, the proportion of 
 communicants to average attendants is as 2 or 3 to 1. 
 We are glad to observe that there is a longer list of 
 European subscribers to the Mission than has been pub- 
 lished before. It is a Christian duty to lend a helping 
 hand to the efforts of Christian Missions made at our 
 doors, and we are sure that if our American brethren make 
 their work and their wants known amongst their English 
 neighbours, this obligation will be cheerfully acknowledged 
 and discharged.” 
 
 These further extracts will give an idea of the light 
 and shade which cross the path of all who live and work 
 for Christ amongst the heathen, and must show the faithful- 
 ness of the report presented. 
 
 In the body of the report we find sad evidences of the 
 ravages of last year’s epidemic fever, and to this, here as 
 elsewhere, must be put down a serious check to both evan- 
 gelisation and organization. In some villages twelve per 
 cent, of the people died within a few weeks, and quite 
 fifty per cent, were prostrated. The want of suitable 
 workers has been much felt, especially among women. 
 
BAPTIZED HEATHEN. 
 
 25 
 
 But we read of useful volunteers, and Miss Corbett shows 
 us that other humble qualifications are available. She says: 
 
 “ We find that the greatest progress is made in those 
 villages where a boy, who is not too highly educated, is living 
 and working among his family and friends. They are naturally 
 interested in their own people, and have an influence over 
 them which those from higher castes have not.” 
 
 There has been much to distress the missionaries in 
 some places where carelessness, both before and after 
 baptism, has resulted in a walk unworthy of the faith 
 carelessly adopted, and in some cases even in apostasy. 
 Of one district the missionary writes : 
 
 “ We have not a few of this kind of people on our hands. 
 I wish to put the blame for this state of things just where 
 it belongs, when I say it is entirely the fault of certain 
 native workers, ordained and otherwise. Having offered 
 schools and other worldly inducements, they found no 
 trouble in baptizing as many as they wished. The conse- 
 quence is that we have on hands a lot of baptized heathen , 
 who reproach us on account of our unfulfilled promises. 
 They are ten times harder to reach than they would other- 
 wise have been.” 
 
 This witness is true. In many more villages, on the 
 other hand, we read of greater encouragement than ever 
 before in the spiritual condition of the Christians; of a 
 deepening spirit of enquiry among all classes; and of 
 better results than ever from the work of Christian helpers. 
 
 The plague of popery is not extinct, though its area is 
 lessening as the following extracts will show : 
 
 “ The papists have not taken any of our Christians since 
 my last report; but instead several have returned to us, 
 confessing that they have been thoroughly deceived in both 
 worldly and spiritual matters, and some express contempt 
 for Romish idolatry. One man went to the Roman Catholics 
 
25 
 
 THE ROM AX CATHOLICS. 
 
 and drew three of his sons with him. The father is 
 now dead, and the three sons came back stating that out 
 of respect for their father, who could secure employment 
 only by taking his family with him, they had nominally 
 gone to Rome. Now that their father is dead, they want 
 to have nothing to do with the followers of the Pope. 
 The Roman Catholics have changed their mode of work ; 
 money is still used, but in a different way. Not so many 
 are hired as servants, but distributions are made more 
 generally. While we are trying to teach the people liberality, 
 they are being liberal with their money. They have settled 
 down to quiet work now, making their head-quarters in 
 two of our villages. 
 
 “Our helpers and even ministers have been very 
 cautious in bringing men into the Church, lest the Roman 
 Catholics, who are working in an underhanded way in our 
 district, should win over the new converts. The papists 
 work only among Christians.” 
 
 While of work among women, Miss Gordon says : 
 
 “Two or three villages have been entirely demoralized 
 through the false teachings of the papists, and other causes.” 
 
 Efforts are being made to develope a system of self- 
 government in the village congregations. The loss inflicted 
 on all parties by making the missionary’s tent a “Small 
 Cause Court ” is a very serious one, and whoever best 
 succeeds in showing how to avoid it, and yet to secure the 
 removal of roots of bitterness, will be a benefactor to the 
 native church. Of this tftort Dr. Barr writes: 
 
 “To instruct them in the duties of self-government and 
 discipline, the experiment is now being tried of having, in 
 the different sub-districts, carefully-selected men, approved 
 by the people, who meet from time to time with the 
 missionary or helper in the division, and consult in regard 
 to the conduct of members. No one who is employed by 
 
/ WISH MY WIFE TO DIE A CHRISTIAN 27 
 
 the mission on salary is eligible to a place on this committee 
 panchayat. So far this has worked well, and persons have 
 been brought under discipline who otherwise, no doubt, 
 would have escaped being reported to the missionary.” 
 
 A mission report is nothing without anecdotes. In this 
 report the lady writers best supply what is needed. Miss 
 Wilson relates : 
 
 “A Hindu woman received us gladly, and listened atten- 
 tively. She and her daughter both read well. She said, 
 ‘ I have heard all about your religion from my youth up. 
 I have one of your Bibles, and I read it. My heart is 
 with you. I love Christ in my heart, but I do not eat 
 your bread.’ We endeavoured to show her that it is 
 necessary for her to confess Christ.” 
 
 Miss White, m.d., gives a touching incident in connection 
 with her work in Sealkote : 
 
 “ The religious work among the indoor patients has been 
 specially interesting. One who entered for an operation, 
 and who felt that her life was short, would call us frequently 
 through the day to read and pray with her. The operation 
 not giving the relief hoped for, she returned to her friends, 
 that she might pass her last days with her husband. I 
 visited her at her home daily, reading to and teaching 
 her. On all these occasions many others were present, 
 among whom was her husband, who sat silent. One day 
 I was unable to pay my visit, and on the following day the 
 husband addressed me for the first time, when he begged 
 me to come to his house daily. ‘ Don’t leave her for one 
 day,’ he said. ‘ I wish my wife to die a Christian. I was 
 converted in the Mission Boys’ School under Dr. Martin, 
 and though never baptized I am a Christian, and have been 
 labouring to bring all my friends to Christ.’ The wife con- 
 fessed Christ and died, I believe, a true Christian. It was 
 beautiful to hear her talking to those about her, and begging 
 them also to come to Christ.” 
 
28 THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND IN THE PUNJAB. 
 
 From the educational part of the report we cull two 
 passages worthy of attention, and italicise them. The 
 Rev. G. W. Morrison says of the Gujranwala school, “So 
 far as educational results are concerned, it stands very near 
 the first, if it is not actually first, among schools of like 
 grade in the Panjab. The boys also hold a high place in 
 the tournament of athletic sports which is held yearly. 
 The time that I have given has been devoted to direct religious 
 instruction .” 
 
 And Miss McCahen, in Sealkote Girls’ Boarding-school, 
 describes her work, “ My own teaching is confined to the 
 Bible lessons, and I allow nothing to divert me from that.'" 
 
 Regarding the work of the Church of Scotland’s 
 missionaries in the Panjab Mission, the following statistics 
 will enable us to form some little idea of the prodigious 
 task that lies before them. 
 
 The membership of the Church of Scotland in the 
 Panjab is now 2207, and the number of pupils attending 
 the college and schools of the Mission is 2477; of these 
 280 are girls. 
 
 The field occupied by the Mission is a large one, there 
 being in the part of Sealkote assigned to it 400,000 of a 
 population, in Wazirabad 100,000, in Gujrat nearly 700,000, 
 in Chamba 120,000, and in Jammu about 500,000; in all 
 close on two millions. Numbers given in this way do not 
 impress the mind with the vastness of the field. It is only 
 when the cities, towns, and villages are actually visited, and 
 the work of preaching and teaching followed through its 
 successive stages among different classes of people and in 
 different languages, that its extent, importance, and diffi- 
 culties are perceived. 
 
 The baptisms during the year just closed were 275. The 
 year before the baptisms were 7 00 - 
 
 The difficulty is, How is this grand work to be con- 
 tinued ? Here there is a most successful mission ; but the 
 
MORE MEN NEEDED. 
 
 29 
 
 forces put into the field are not equal, or anything like 
 equal, to the necessities of the case. 
 
 Mr. Youngson, after having worked nobly single-handed 
 for years, and after having met with success such as has not 
 fallen to the lot of many missionaries, is now obliged to 
 return home for a short furlough. It is a choice between 
 this and a breakdown. In what an unsatisfactory condition 
 he is obliged to leave his grand work at Sealkote ! Dr. 
 Hutchison cannot undertake it, having his hands very 
 much more than full with his own work, and being entirely 
 crippled by the want of a proper hospital and dispensary, 
 and sufficient funds to provide medical assistants, appliances, 
 and medicines. His present hospital is a wretched little 
 place, only fit for an outhouse. How disheartening it is to 
 have to carry on work under such adverse circumstances. 
 If there is to be a Medical Mission it should be thoroughly 
 equipped in order to be of any service as an evangelistic 
 agency. Clearly then Dr. Hutchison cannot supply Mr. 
 Youngson’s place; and so the whole of the vast field 
 in Sealkote is now left in the care of a young missionary 
 not yet a year in the country. 
 
 The importance of the whole Panjab Mission is not 
 sufficiently understood by the Church of Scotland, or I am 
 convinced it would not rest till at least five new missionaries 
 were sent out to reinforce the four Europeans who will be 
 left when Mr. Youngson goes home. There should be two 
 men in Chamba, two in Gujrat, one in Wazirabad, one in 
 Duska, one in Jummoo, and two in Sealkote, besides the 
 medical missionary. All these should be Europeans, over 
 and above the native staff. * 
 
 It is very gratifying to see that the Church of Scotland 
 Ladies’ Association is realising the importance of the 
 
 * I rejoice to know that since these words were written one new 
 missionary has been appointed, and is to be supported by St. Mark’s, 
 Dundee. 
 
30 LADIES' VILLAGE WORK IN THE PUNJAB. 
 
 Panjab field. They have now got two ladies in Gujrat and 
 two in Sealkote, the latter station being the special care of 
 the Aberdeen Auxiliary. But there is room for many more 
 ladies yet, and especially two might be stationed in Chamba 
 with great advantage. There is a nice house being built 
 for the ladies at Sealkote, and another has been commenced 
 in Gujrat. I should very much like to see the Church of 
 Scotland taking up ladies’ village work in the Panjab, such 
 as is being so successfully done by the ladies of the 
 C. E. Z. M. S. These ladies have proved beyond all 
 doubt that it is possible for English ladies to live among 
 the villagers of the Panjab, provided they have good house 
 accommodation, and are within reasonable distance of a 
 European station, from whence they can secure supplies and 
 get competent medical advice when necessary. They have 
 also shown that Panjab villagers will be kind and respectful 
 to English ladies when they trust them. 
 
 The Medical Mission work at Sealkote is very interesting. 
 Some idea of it may be gathered from a report of Dr. 
 Hutchison’s. He says : 
 
 “ The Dispensary in the Mission compound was open 
 throughout the year, and a total of 6,560 new, patients were 
 treated there. The numbers seen during the cold weather 
 itinerations amounted to upwards of 4,000 ; so that in all 
 10,560 new patients passed through our hands; and new 
 and old together give upwards of 18,000 visits. The 
 operations performed were about 400 ; chiefly minor. 
 Owing to want of accommodation and funds we had to 
 send away many cases requiring prolonged treatment or a 
 surgical operation. The bulk of the patients attending the 
 Dispensary came from the villages around us; and our 
 work has thus supplied a long-felt want in bringing Medical 
 relief to many who otherwise had no means of obtaining it. 
 Patients have come in from long distances, and the fame of 
 the Dispensary has been widely spread abroad. The people 
 
DR. HUTCHISON’S REPORT. 
 
 have everywhere seemed most grateful for the kindness 
 which it has been in our power to show them. In my 
 absence the work was efficiently carried on by Babu Fazl 
 Din, one of our native Christian Agents, who has had a 
 partial medical training. The spring months up to the end 
 of March were spent in the northern part of the district. 
 In this portion of our field there are fewer Christian villages, 
 and so an element of pleasure was wanting which had 
 made itineration in the Daska direction exceedingly enjoy- 
 able. But there was abundance of medical work, and 
 crowds of sick were treated at every halting-place. I was 
 accompanied by Mr. Thakur Das, and we crossed over into 
 Jammu territory and itinerated among the villages near the 
 foot of the hills as far east as the banks of the Degh, 
 where probably no missionary had ever been before. We 
 found the people most friendly, and in several villages they 
 pressed us to stay longer, and begged us to come back soon. 
 No interference was experienced anywhere from the State 
 officials, and in one or two villages they refused to take 
 payment for the few supplies we needed. In many parts of 
 the Sealkote district also the same friendly feeling was shown 
 — a marked contrast in every way to what used to be in 
 former years. Towards the end of the year itinerations 
 were resumed in company with Mr. Youngson, and several 
 happy weeks were spent in moving about among the 
 Christian villages. The brethren were delighted to see 
 us, and we were pleased to find tokens of progress and 
 spiritual growth among them. They seemed to be drawing 
 closer to one another, and to be realizing more fully the 
 common bond of their new brotherhood in Christ. But 
 everywhere also we found the same need for instruction 
 and building up. Mr. Youngson’s magic lantern exhibi- 
 tions lent much interest and variety to the work, and secured 
 large and attentive audiences in the evenings when the 
 work of the day was done. 
 
GREAT NEED OF BRANCH DISPENSARIES. 
 
 The evangelistic side of our work has been very interest- 
 ing and encouraging. The work in the dispensary every 
 morning was commenced with a short address, which was 
 always listened to with attention. Not once was there any 
 unpleasantness. The audiences were often large, though it 
 was not possible to have the whole of the patients present 
 at one time owing to the great distances many of them had 
 to come. In the villages we often had very large audiences 
 throughout ; and in addition to the ordinary address a 
 catechist went on preaching while we were engaged in 
 distributing medicines. Nothing but kindness was expe- 
 rienced everywhere ; and even bigoted Mohammedans 
 became pleasant and friendly in sight of the medicine-chest 
 Service like that which the medical missionary can render 
 commends itself to their hearts, and suggests to them a 
 question which they cannot answer, “ Why their own religion 
 does not bring forth similar fruit?” Apart from direct 
 results our medical work is producing a very friendly feeling 
 towards us in the numerous villages near the Mission 
 House ; and is also exerting a good influence on our 
 mission work generally throughout the district. The 
 Christians have benefited much by it ; and for their sakes 
 also it is highly desirable that it should be greatly extended. 
 In our Sealkote Mission-field, including Wazirabad, with a 
 population of nearly half a million souls, there are only five 
 Government dispensaries, so that there is room for any 
 amount of medical mission work. Many suitable centres 
 for branch dispensaries suggest themselves to us if the 
 necessary funds are forthcoming, where the work would be 
 a powerful auxiliary to the general evangelistic operations of 
 the mission, and an immense boon to many of the Christian 
 brethren and others who are at present without any medical 
 aid in their times of sickness. 
 
THE LEPER ASYLUM AT BABA LA KHAN. 33 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SEALLLOTE, BABA LAKHAN, JAMMOO, WAZ 1 RABAD, 
 AND GUJRAT. 
 
 November 7. Friday. Mr. Youngson arrived home this 
 morning, and after breakfast he and I drove out to see the 
 Government Leper Asylum at Baba Lakhan, about ten miles 
 from Sealkote. It was a most touching sight. There were 
 forty inmates, of whom eighteen were men, sixteen women, 
 and there were six children. Of the children only one is a 
 leper, a boy of about ten. We saw the usual sad sights. 
 Most of the cases were very bad, and there was one woman 
 very far gone, with an infant of three weeks in her arms. 
 Of the children two were little girls ; both had been born 
 in the asylum, but their parents are now dead. These two 
 girls are sisters, both parents were lepers, but there is no 
 sign of the disease on the children as yet. How dreadful 
 that they should have been allowed to live on in the asylum ! 
 They have, however, been taken good care of by the lepers, 
 who have been very kind to them. There is now a strict 
 order against lepers in the asylum contracting marriages, 
 but formerly, I am told, it was not so.*' 
 
 The lepers at this institution appear to be well looked 
 
 * Since my visit I have drawn the attention of the authorities to the 
 fact of these two children still living on in the asylum, at the same time 
 offering to take charge of them in one of our children’s homes. The 
 district officer has kindly looked into the matter, with the result that the 
 children have been handed over to some of their relatives who have laid 
 claim to them, and have promised to become responsible for their 
 support. 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 AN INFANT CHURCH. 
 
 after, and to be fairly comfortable, but no mission work is 
 being done amongst them. % 
 
 Many more lepers might be accommodated in this 
 asylum, and it seems a pity that they should not be taken in 
 when there is ample room for them. There are three large 
 barracks (pucca), twenty-four rooms in each, making in all 
 seventy-two rooms. 
 
 After visiting Baba Lakhan Mr. Youngson and I went 
 by rail to the city of Jammoo, to see some of the members 
 of the infant church there. After putting up our things 
 into the Dak Bungalow, we called upon the little handful of 
 Christians at their own quarter, and had prayer and reading 
 with them. Two candidates were brought forward for bap- 
 tism, but after examination were advised to wait for further 
 instruction. How interested one felt in visiting these, the 
 first converts, the almost secret believers, in this well-known 
 stronghold of idolatry, these low-caste folk, of no import- 
 ance in the place, from a social standpoint, and yet these 
 
 * At my suggestion the Rev. Dr. Martin, of the American U. P. 
 Mission, in whose district the asylum lies, has since applied to the 
 authorities for, and has obtained, leave to superintend the place. He 
 has already appointed a catechist to instruct the lepers regularly in the 
 word of God, he himself kindly undertaking to visit them as often as 
 possible. Since my visit the American ladies have kindly taken up 
 the work also, and are visiting the women at the asylum. Miss 
 Gordon, who came out with her brother, the late Rev. Dr. Andrew 
 Gordon, before the mutiny, relates as follows : “ At Baba Lakhan 
 we visited the Leper Asylum. The lepers live in good substantial 
 brick buildings We saw the women at two of them. At the first 
 one they were shy, quiet, and rather indifferent ; but at the second they 
 were bold, bigoted Mohammedans. Seeing that the hands and feet of 
 some of them were nearly gone, we told them of the compassion of 
 Jesus for the leper, but they scorned us and mocked at His name, and 
 repeated some of their poetry, which neither they nor I understood, 
 and praised Mohammed.” I thank Miss Gordon for her kind sym- 
 pathy to the poor sufferers. She and her friends will persevere I feel 
 sure, and the poor hard hearts will break down before the melting 
 love of Christ. 
 
IN SEASON ANN OUT OF SEASON. 
 
 35 
 
 may be the first-fruits of a very glorious harvest. How 
 fully this was all realized as we sat there with them in their 
 very humble abode, and read to them from the word of 
 God, by the dim light of their own primitive lamp. The 
 scene was apostolic, and surely that dim light may be looked 
 upon as an illustration of the present position of that feeble 
 little church. How poor and dim was the light of that tiny 
 lamp, and yet what power is contained therein. Let it but be 
 placed in touch with inflammable matter, and what may it 
 not accomplish in the way of destruction ! So let the flicker- 
 ing light of this newborn church be fanned by the hand of 
 the Holy Spirit, and what may it not accomplish in the 
 spreading of salvation ! * 
 
 Surely its future progress will be watched with prayerful 
 interest by all who have the increase of the Redeemer’s 
 kingdom in the Panjab at heart. 
 
 November 9. Sunday. A very happy Lord’s -day. In 
 
 the morning I had the privilege of conducting service for 
 the native Christians in Sealkote city in Hindustani, and in 
 the evening I preached to the soldiers in cantonments. 
 There is work at very high pressure in this Mission. The 
 missionaries are hard at it in season and out of season, 
 willing to spend and be spent for all, European and natives 
 alike. Two services in English every Sunday, besides two 
 in Hindustani. The pastor for the native church is the 
 Rev. Tahal Singh, who always takes one of the native 
 services, having sole charge of the Hunterpore Church, so 
 called from its having been built in memory of the Rev. 
 Mr. Hunter and his wife, missionaries of this Mission, who 
 fell in the Indian Mutiny. There is also a Bible-class for 
 the native Christian women, in the village close by the 
 Mission-house, every Sunday, taken by Miss Plumb and 
 Miss Tahal Singh. 
 
 * Since our visit other converts have been added to the Church. 
 
36 
 
 WELL, SAHIB , IT JFAS COB’S WILL. 
 
 The Rev. Natthu Mai lives out in the district, having 
 charge of the Amoutrah native church, which has a member- 
 ship of 105, 24 of whom are communicants. 
 
 The third native pastor is the Rev. Hakim Singh, who 
 works in the Wazirabad district. 
 
 November 10. This has been a busy da)'. After break- 
 fast drove out with Miss Plumb, who kindly took me to see 
 her city schools. I then met Mr. Youngson, and we both 
 started for Wazirabad, where we arrived after a short 
 journey by rail. Here I met many old friends, and went 
 over the school in the city, where I had spent many days of 
 my missionary life. I was glad to find that the school 
 buildings had been increased by a small property adjoining 
 having been purchased and thrown into the whole. 
 
 When passing through the main street of Wazirabad I 
 came upon Bhola Khan, sitting at his old trade, just as I 
 used to see him years ago, when I hoped he had given his 
 heart to the Lord. Alas ! he has turned back, and is now 
 a pervert. Poor fellow, he seems ashamed of himself. 
 When I spoke to him, he said of his going back, “Well, 
 sahib, it was God’s will.” I replied, “ No, Bhola, it was 
 your own.” I wished much I might have had a few words 
 with him in private. But where is privacy to be had for a 
 native in India? I visited my old house with Mr. Young- 
 son, and then he returned to Sealkote ; and I took train and 
 passed on to Gujrat, where I am spending an exceedingly 
 pleasant time with Kir. and Mrs. McCheyne Paterson and 
 Miss MacKichan. They are expecting another lady very 
 shortly to join Miss MacKichan, a Miss Stevenson. Mr. 
 Paterson’s trap was at the station awaiting me, and as I 
 drove to the house I picked up Miss MacKichan on her 
 way from school. How happy these mission ladies seem 
 in their work, and what a pity it is that more of our girls do 
 not engage in it ! 
 
 I am glad to see that the house for the ladies has been 
 
AN EMPTY LEPER ASYLUM. 
 
 37 
 
 begun. It stands on a beautiful site, in front of the present 
 mission-house, and on the right-hand side as you approach 
 from the front. The building has not progressed much 
 beyond the foundations, though it has been some time in 
 hand. This is owing to the epidemic of fever in Gujrat, 
 which has laid prostrate almost the whole population, and 
 has paralysed all work. Mr. Paterson has been asked by 
 the authorities to undertake the work of relieving the sick 
 and suffering, for in some instances whole families are laid 
 aside, and there is no one to procure the daily bread. For 
 a time the death rate was 40 per day, out of a population 
 of 19,000; and even now it is as high as 18. In the whole 
 district 45,000 people are said to have perished. Hundreds 
 have been unable to get in their grain from the fields, and 
 the consequence is, in many instances, starvation. Mr. 
 Paterson and Didar Singh, a native Christian of many 
 years’ standing, are busy for hours every day, and say that 
 the things which they see and hear are sometimes most 
 distressing. It is, however, undoubtedly a good thing for 
 a missionary to be thus identified with the people in their 
 sorrows and sufferings. 
 
 In Mr. Paterson’s report for the year he says : “ Such a 
 state of matters added enormously to the work of the 
 Mission. Eventually the school had to be closed, as our 
 Christian workers were struck down with the fever.” But 
 he adds this encouraging news : “ In this time of distress 
 the people flung aside their caste prejudices. Almost every 
 door was open to us ; we were everywhere welcomed ; and 
 thus unprecedented opportunities of knowing and speaking 
 to the people in their houses were obtained.” 
 
 In the evening Mr. Paterson drove me to see the Leper 
 Asylum. We found a nice little building of four rooms, 
 capable of housing twelve lepers comfortably; but there 
 were no lepers. Mr. Paterson has kindly promised to make 
 enquiries about the place. If there are lepers in the 
 
38 
 
 SOME STARTLING STATISTICS. 
 
 neighbourhood, it seems a pity that they should not be 
 taken in and cared for. 
 
 November n. This morning, before leaving Gujrat, Mr. 
 Paterson kindly took me to see the new site for the school 
 building and native church. The present building is quite 
 inadequate, the native Christians still worshipping in a very 
 poor little room only 18x12.*' A few Gujrat statistics 
 may serve to fasten upon the minds of the readers the 
 tremendous need of just one district of the great mission 
 field : 
 
 Entire population of the district, 700,000. Gujrat City, 
 19,000; Jalalpore, 12,000; Shadwal, 10,000; Dingah, 
 xo,ooo. Total population in these four towns, 51,000. 
 
 Christians in Gujrat City, 35; in Jalalpore, it; in 
 Shadwal, 12; in Dingah, 9. Total Christians, 67. There 
 are 7 unoccupied towns and 1,271 villages in the district. 
 
 And to all this needy district there are allotted one 
 European missionary and two lady workers, with a little 
 handful of native Christians. A population larger than all 
 Glasgow and its suburbs ! Think of it, friends of Missions ! 
 Just conceive what it would mean were Dr. Marshall Lang, 
 with two lady workers and a handful of Sunday-school 
 teachers, to be set down to convert Glasgow and its 
 suburbs ! And think, further, what it would mean were 
 the Church of Scotland to be satisfied with this arrange- 
 ment ! The pathos of the situation at Gujrat is complete 
 when we read the following two paragraphs in Mr. 
 Paterson’s last report : 
 
 “The catechists at Jalalpur have worked heart and soul 
 throughout the year. They keep up a day-school among the 
 low-caste families, but the schoolroom was swept away in 
 the rains, and now they are forced to seat their classes 
 
 * I am thankful to hear that a sufficient sum of money has been 
 collected to build this church and school. 
 
FOR THE LACK OF £8! 
 
 39 
 
 under a tree. It is all-important that our old school be 
 rebuilt ; but for the lack of ^8 we have been unable to 
 do so. 
 
 “ Dingah . — No home congregation has as yet taken up 
 work in this large and important centre. Nine months ago 
 the people sent me a largely-signed petition asking our 
 Mission to take over their flourishing school. A friend 
 came forward and undertook the support of the school till 
 such time as the Committee would sanction it, else this 
 great opportunity would have been lost to the Mission. 
 Since taking it over we have gained the confidence and the 
 goodwill of the inhabitants. Now they listen earnestly and 
 quietly to the Gospel message, while before this they were 
 in the habit of hooting and stoning the preachers. This is 
 one of our most promising fields of labour, yet no congre- 
 gation has come forward with the money required to make 
 it a permanent district centre. Yet only p£i6 a year is 
 needed. Shall our appeal to the churches be in vain this 
 year also ? ” 
 
40 
 
 A WONDERFUL TREE. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 AMRITSAR, DALHOUSIE, CHUMBA. 
 
 November 12. Left Gujrat yesterday at midday, and 
 got to Amritsar at 7 p.m., where I was met by Dr. Henry 
 Martyn Clark, who kindly drove me to his house, and 
 there I spent a most enjoyable evening with him and 
 Mrs. Clark. 
 
 Before leaving Amritsar this morning Dr. Clark pointed 
 out to me the large banyan-tree which was planted by the 
 Rev. Robert Clark (father of the Punjab C. M. S. Mis- 
 sion) thirty years ago. The tree goes by the name of 
 “ The Amritsar Mission,” the parent stem representing the 
 Amritsar city work ; while, curiously enough, as each new 
 out-station has been opened the tree has thrown down a 
 new stem. As we looked at the tree Dr. Clark, pointing to 
 a new stem which was about half-way down, said, “This 
 represents a new station which we are just about to open.” 
 
 I left Amritsar by the 9.27 a.m. train, and reached 
 Pathankote at about 1.30, where I had a hurried meal in 
 the waiting-room, and at 2.5 started in a tonga for Duneira, 
 where I arrived at 5.50 p.m., after a tremendously dusty 
 ride and a very good shaking. Still, what an improvement 
 it all is on the old journey of ten hours in a dak gari (a 
 horse conveyance), and then ten hours more in a doolie 
 (a sort of palanquin). 
 
 After dinner and a short rest at Duneira I started again, 
 this time in a doolie, as the tonga can go no further just 
 yet, the road not being completed. After a disturbed night 
 
BEAUTIFUL KUJEAR. 
 
 4i 
 
 in the doolie arrived at Mrs. Lester’s Hotel, Dalhousie, at 
 6.30 a.m. I found that the hotel was closed for the winter 
 months, but Mrs. Lester kindly took me in as her guest, 
 and gave me a much-needed breakfast. I remained a few 
 hours in Dalhousie, called on some old friends, and visited 
 the cemetery, where a darling child sleeps till the Lord’s 
 coming, her little grave being many months of the year 
 hidden beneath the heavy snow which falls almost every 
 winter in this mountainous region. I then hired a pony in 
 the Bazar to take me to Chumba and back, and started for 
 Kujear at about 1 o’clock. I arrived at Kujear Dak 
 Bungalow at 4 p.m., after a lonely ride through the still, 
 solemn forest, and put up there for the night. 
 
 The Dak Bungalow is picturesquely situated at one end 
 of a large open glade, in the midst of a great cedar forest, 
 and is well worthy of a visit from strangers spending the 
 season in Dalhousie ; it should, however, be visited in the 
 early summer or autumn, not during the rainy season. In 
 the depth of winter it is practically inaccessible from the 
 Dalhousie side, the forest being blocked with snow. 
 
 November 14. Left Kujear a little before 8 a.m., and 
 arrived at Chumba at 10.30, to find Mr. Walker, the 
 missionary of the Church of Scotland, and His Highness 
 the Raja, both away from home. This was a great dis- 
 appointment, as I was most anxious to see them both. I 
 was met by the Rev. Sohan Lai and Poli, and soon after 
 Dr. Barkhurdar Khan called to see me, all old friends. I 
 have put up in the Mission House, Mr. Walker’s, as I know 
 I am welcome here, even though the master is away from 
 home. 
 
 My first visit has been to the Leper Asylum, which I 
 built myself in 1875. It is beautifully situated on one side 
 of the Ravi, about two miles from the city of Chumba, 
 the approach to it being a lovely road along the right bank 
 of the river. The asylum is divided into two parts; the 
 
42 
 
 OUR SAHIB HAS COME. 
 
 first set of buildings, forming two sides of a square, consists 
 of low huts ; there are also a small church, and a double- 
 storied building for store-room, &c. The second set of 
 buildings is composed of a single row of huts, about 400 
 yards further down the river. Originally the former build- 
 ings were used for men, and the latter for women, but now, 
 by the wish of the His Highness the Raja, the former are 
 not occupied, while both men and women occupy the latter. 
 At one time all the buildings were fully occupied, but now 
 lepers are not encouraged to come into Chumba, and so 
 there are only ten inmates at present, though there is need 
 in this State for numerous asylums, the number of lepers 
 being very great indeed. 
 
 On nearing the asylum I said to Pastor Sohan Lai and 
 Dr. Barkhurdar Khan, who had accompanied me, “Will 
 you kindly allow me to go on alone ? ” and went forward 
 by myself. Rodu was the first to see me, the same who 
 had seen me first on the occasion of my last visit, four 
 years ago. There was visible excitement at my approach, 
 and as it dawned upon them who I was, the joy expressed 
 on their faces was beautiful and touching to behold, and 
 when Rodu turned to the others and said, “ Our sahib has 
 come,” it went very deep into my heart. There are three 
 inmates now in the asylum who were there many years ago 
 when I had charge of it ; these are now all Christians. It 
 was most gratifying to see the way in which they re- 
 membered, and asked so kindly after, my wife and children. 
 Their names are Rodu and Kanaya, men, and Gamnu, a 
 woman. Altogether there are eight Christian lepers in the 
 asylum here ; and from what Dr. Barkhurdar tells me they 
 must be very bright Christians. Dr. Barkhurdar is very 
 devoted to these lepers, giving them a great deal of time, 
 and not only seeking to benefit them as a physician, but 
 teaching them from the word of God. They are also 
 visited^ by Pastor Sohan Lai and Poli, while there is a 
 
GOD’S OWN GLORY. 
 
 43 
 
 special reader for themselves, an old friend called Kodu. 
 It is a great joy to visit them and to see them so bright and 
 happy, remarkably so when one remembers the awfulness 
 of their condition. One Christian lady was so struck by 
 the appearance of quiet peace and joy on the face of one 
 the women that she described it as “God’s own glory.” 
 Surely these are “ living stones ” gathered out from those 
 quarries of corrupting humanity, to be set for ever in His 
 Temple. 
 
 There are some very interesting cases here, as well from 
 a spiritual as from a medical point of view. There are 
 three lepers here, father, mother, and daughter; the daughter 
 is now twenty-two years of age, a nice-looking woman ; she 
 is married, but was turned away by her husband when she 
 developed leprosy. This woman was born about three 
 years before her mother became a leper; the mother was 
 the first to become afflicted, then the husband, and finally, 
 years afterwards, after she had married, the daughter also 
 became a leper. The father in the first instance separated 
 from his wife, but did not put her away, and the daughter 
 left the parents’ roof when she got married ; now God has 
 restored them all to one another in this terrible calamity 
 which has overtaken them, and they again live under one 
 roof. I had all three sitting close to me, and with Dr. 
 Barkhurdar’s aid was questioning them very closely as to 
 their former history, when suddenly the daughter was 
 observed to be crying, and on our asking her what was 
 the matter, she said, “No, it was God’s will that I was to 
 become a leper;” she had seen by the drift of our questions 
 that we were gradually drawing the net in round her poor 
 mother, and so bringing her in as the first cause of all 
 their misfortunes, when with a delicacy of feeling beautiful 
 to behold, and with the love of a daughter so natural, 
 she said almost indignantly, “ No, it was God’s will that 
 I was to become a leper.” It was a touching scene. 
 
44 “/ HA VE SEEN SOME OF THESE CHRISTIANS DIE: 
 
 As soon as we saw how agitated she had become, we 
 explained that we had no intention of reflecting on her 
 mother in any way; after that she became quite calm 
 again. Her father and mother are both Christians, but, 
 strange to say, she, poor girl, has not yet seen her way 
 to throwing in her lot with them in this respect. She has 
 once been restored to them in the dark shadow of this 
 terrible disease, may we not further hope and expect that 
 —she will again be restored to them in the brightness of a 
 Saviour’s love, and become one with them in the better 
 
 t than earthly relationship, that the shadows will all flee 
 ^away, and the Sun of Righteousness will arise upon her 
 .“with healing in His wings.” 
 
 Dr. Barkhurdar, in speaking of the power that Christianity 
 becomes in the lives of some of these poor people, said to 
 me, “ I have seen some of these Christians die, and they 
 died in faith, without a fear of any kind, and I am sure 
 they are now in heaven, and their poor faces brighter than 
 the angels by far.” 
 
 I am having a time of very sweet and refreshing com- 
 munion with the native brethren here ; they are most kind 
 and thoughtful, and treat one with such Christian courtesy, 
 and in such a loving Christ-like spirit. The Rev. W. Fer- 
 guson, now in Cyprus, was the first missionary to enter 
 Chumba, and many of us have read and heard of his 
 peculiar methods, such as preaching through a trumpet, &c. 
 If peculiar, they were striking, and as they were done in 
 singleness of aim, and the object was God’s glory, and the 
 extension of His kingdom, the Lord Himself approved of 
 them ; and were Mr. Ferguson to be permitted to visit his 
 old home once more, it would delight his heart to see, 
 standing firm to-day, many of those whom he had been 
 the means of bringing into the fold of Christ. 
 
 November 15. I have had a great treat to-day. I went 
 down alone to the Leper Asylum, and getting the lepers all 
 
A WONDERFUL PRAYER-MEETING. 
 
 45 
 
 around me I said to Garnnu and Rodu, “Find out the 
 fourth chapter of John”; this they did without any diffi- 
 culty, and then I said, “Now, Gamnu, you read first”; she 
 did so very nicely, and then I made Rodu read, and so got 
 them to read verse about, making an occasional remark as 
 they went on, or asking a question. I had a peculiar 
 pleasure in this reading, as the translation which we were 
 using was one that had been made by Pastor Sohan Lai 
 and myself years before, from the ordinary Hindustani 
 translation into the Chumba patois. They both read well, 
 but Gamnu the better of the two ; she was able to help out 
 Rodu occasionally, when he got into any little difficulty. I 
 asked many questions, but did not succeed in puzzling 
 them ; once indeed they tripped me up. “ Who was 
 Jacob?” said I. “Isaac’s son,” they answered. “Oh, no,” 
 said I, my thoughts wandering, they looked puzzled, and 
 after a little Rodu said, “ Well, Sahib, in the pothi (book) 
 from which we learned it, it was written that Abraham had 
 a son whose name was Isaac, and Isaac had two sons whose 
 names were Esau and Jacob, and that Jacob had twelve 
 sons.” “ Oh, you are right,” said I ; “ it is / who am 
 making the mistake.” 
 
 I then said, “Now we shall have a little prayer together; 
 I shall pray first, then Gamnu, and then Rodu.” I then 
 offered prayer, bringing in as much Chumiyali (their own 
 simple mountain dialect) as I could muster, and as soon as 
 I had finished Gamnu went on, and then Rodu. I wish the 
 friends who attend our monthly prayer-meeting could have 
 heard those prayers. I wish all Christian friends who have 
 prayer-meetings of their own could have heard them, there 
 was such a pathos, such a spiritual beauty in them. It 
 would be utterly impossible for me to give any idea of it ; 
 I felt that God was in our midst, and that the place whereon 
 we bowed was indeed holy ground, a veritable Bethel — we 
 were in one of heaven’s outer courts. When Rodu had 
 
46 
 
 THE LORD'S PRAYER SLY TIMES ! 
 
 finished I raised my head and said in a low voice, “Hor 
 koi” (anyone else), immediately old Kanaya bowed his 
 head and repeated the Lord’s Prayer in his own sweet 
 Chumiyali. “ Hor koi,” said I again — again the Lord’s 
 Prayer in Chumiyali ! “ Hor koi,” again the same by another, 
 and so on, until the remaining six Christians had all repeated 
 the beautiful words which the dear Lord Himself taught 
 His disciples. The Lord’s Prayer six times over ! one after 
 another; was it too much? Not for me; and ah, surely 
 not for Him for whose ear alone these simple prayers were 
 intended. So ended a never-to-be-forgotten prayer-meeting, 
 the very best I have ever been privileged to take part in. 
 In Gamnu’s prayer it was most touching to hear the way in 
 which she pleaded on behalf of the other poor lepers in the 
 State “ who have no friends.” In one part of the prayer 
 she asked that God would send His own Spirit and light 
 and “ shanti ” (comfort) into their hearts. In speaking with 
 them all afterwards we talked together of many sad things, 
 and of how much injustice goes on in the world; then I 
 said, “But who is our Lord and Master?” We all looked 
 up together. I pointed with my finger, and they said softly, 
 “ Parmeshwar ” (God), and then I saw the light in Gamnu’s 
 face, “ the glory ” of which my lady friend had spoken. 
 
 In the report of the Chumba Mission for 1890, Mr. 
 Walker writes as follows regarding the Leper Asylum : 
 
 “The death-roll among the Christian lepers has been 
 heavy, three having died during the year. All died in faith, 
 and have passed to their reward. Two of them died within 
 a few days of each other, and the one who survived said, 
 very touchingly, as he saw the body of his neighbour being 
 carried out for burial, ‘Very well, brother, go; I shall soon 
 follow you.’ They all sleep alongside of those who have gone 
 before, by the banks of the mighty rushing Ravi, till the 
 day of our Lord Jesus Christ. Yes, I doubt not these three 
 j are among them — bright gems for the Saviour’s crown.” 
 
LADY MISSIONARIES NEEDED. 
 
 47 
 
 “Services are held at the asylum regularly every Sun- 
 day, and are attended as a rule by all the inmates, 
 whether they be Christians or not. These and all other 
 meetings have to be held in the open air, as there is no 
 suitable place available. The free-will offerings at these 
 Sunday services have during the year amounted to nearly 
 Rs. i2. The lepers, indeed, cast into the treasury of their 
 want. On an average a catechist or reader visits them 
 every day in the week, reads and explains the Bible, prays 
 with them, and also teaches those among them who are 
 learning to read.” 
 
 A splendid work for Christ may be done in these glorious 
 hills, but the present staff of workers should be reinforced 
 as soon as possible. Two lady missionaries should be sent 
 to live in Chumba city. At the present time the whole of 
 the work for women and girls devolves upon Mrs. Sohan 
 Lai, but it is far more than any native lady can carry on 
 alone, especially when she has her own family to look 
 after. Two European ladies, especially were one of them a 
 medical lady, would be the key to the position. 
 
 Dr. Barkhurdar Khan would be a great strength and 
 “backing” to any lady doctor who might be in this field. 
 
 November 16. Sunday. I had the great privilege to-day 
 of once more conducting the service for the native Christians 
 in Hindustani, but was sorry to find that the building in 
 which they meet, originally built by the Rev. W. Ferguson, 
 is almost tumbling in for want of repairs. A new church is 
 sadly needed; there is a good site; £ 300 will build the 
 church ; will no one respond and help this struggling little 
 native church ? 
 
 In the afternoon I visited the lepers, accompanied by 
 Dr. Barkhurdar, Pastor Sohan Lai, and Brothers Poli and 
 Kodu; Sohan Lai and Poli conducted a joint service for 
 the lepers, Gamnu leading a bhajan (native hymn), in which 
 all joined very well. After service Dr. Barkhurdar and I 
 
4S POOR FELLOJV, HE WILL KNOW IT ALL TOO SOOX'. 
 
 remained and had a pleasant chat with the lepers, and then 
 I left, laden with salams (good wishes) for even-body. 
 
 Since coming to Chumba I have had several seasons of 
 prayer with some of the native brethren, which have much 
 refreshed my spirit. 
 
 This day has closed with a couple of very bright hours 
 spent with some of the native Christians, who kindly in- 
 vited me to tea and singing. How heartily they do enter 
 into these things. To-day I did not tell the lepers that it 
 was my last visit, but somehow I think they guessed it, for 
 they followed me when I was leaving, in a way they had 
 not done before, and kept bidding me an affectionate fare- 
 well and sending salams upon salams to all friends, and 
 these salams were coupled with most grateful thanks to all 
 friends at home who think of and pray for them. 
 
 November 17. Monday. Walked down to the dispensary 
 this morning to see Dr. Barkhurdar Khan, and while there 
 a poor fellow came to consult the doctor. From what we 
 saw and heard, Dr. Barkhurdar and I came to the conclu- 
 sion that it was a case of incipient leprosy, but did not dare 
 to tell the man so; poor fellow, he will know it all too 
 soon ! At 1.30 I went over to lunch with Dr. Barkhurdar, 
 and before I left, Pastor Sohan Lai and Devia came in, and 
 we all had prayer together, these dear brethren commending 
 me most earnestly to God’s care. 
 
 Left Chumba at 3 p.m. and had a pleasant ride to 
 Kujear, where I arrived at 5.30 p.m. After leaving to-day, 
 and as I was riding up the opposite hill, I was suddenly 
 aware of some one riding hard after me, and looking back 
 saw that I was being hailed. I pulled up to find a special 
 messenger had been sent after me with a registered home 
 letter, which had just arrived as I was leaving. I owe 
 it to my friend Dr. Barkhurdar Khan’s kindness that this 
 special mail had been sent after me. 
 
A TRYING JOURNEY. 
 
 49 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 DHARMSALA, AMRITSAR, AMBALA. 
 
 November 20. Dharmsala. From Dalhousie to this I 
 have had rather a trying journey, by doolie all the way. 
 On the 1 8th I rode up to Dalhousie from Kujear, and 
 after spending a few hours there I started by doolie for 
 Dharmsala. I only got as far as Mamool that night, and 
 put up for the night in the Dak Bungalow. I started early 
 the next morning and was in my doolie from 8 till 2.30, 
 when I arrived at Nurpur and put up in the Dak Bungalow 
 for a few hours’ rest and refreshment, starting again in the 
 doolie at 8 p.m., and from there my troubles really began, 
 or rather from the first stage out from there. The start 
 from Nurpur was all that could be desired. I had a full 
 complement of men, all in good spirits and well able to 
 travel ; we had our torch ablaze and everything in trim. 
 Seeing that all was going on nicely, and we were making 
 good time, and being very tired, I soon fell asleep; but 
 after a time I awoke to find that I was lying derelict on 
 the side of the road ! I roused myself, and got out to find 
 that we had arrived at the first chouki (stage), but that 
 there were no men to take me on. The men who had 
 brought me thus far thought it better not to say anything to 
 me, and so they went and lay down themselves in a shed 
 close by, or rather sat there smoking their hookah and 
 having a regular “good time.” When I questioned them, 
 they told me that the man in charge of the arrangements 
 had gone away to look after the new men, and that I had 
 
 E 
 
5 ° 
 
 THE KINDNESS OF A NA TIVE OFFICIAL. 
 
 just to wait till they came. I had arrived at the stage 
 at ten o’clock, so I lay down again in the doolie, and 
 at twelve o’clock I was conscious of being lifted from 
 the ground and set in motion once more. Everything 
 went well then till we reached the next stage, where I had 
 the same experience over again. On awakening I found I 
 had been laid down on the side of the road, and when I 
 made enquiries I -was told that there were no fresh men, 
 but that the Chowdri (the responsible person) had gone 
 to look for them. There I had three hours to wait. About 
 5 a.m. I was again under weigh, and at 8.30 arrived at the 
 Shapur Bungalow, when I ought to have been here. At 
 Shapur I rested and had breakfast, and got away again at 
 11.15, hoping that as daylight had come I should have no 
 further trouble. But, alas ! how little did I know of the 
 ways of that wonderful official, the Chowdri. I reached 
 Dhanoutu at 12.45 P- m -> where, to my intense disgust, I 
 found there were no fresh men to take me on, and though 
 I was only eight miles from Dharmsala I was far too done 
 up to attempt to walk the rest of the way, besides which I 
 could not desert my baggage. At Dhanoutu there is a 
 magnificent shady tree, under which I sat and waited in the 
 hope that some carriers would turn up, but it was a vain 
 hope. At 4 p.m. they had not come ; and had it not 
 been for the help of the Thanedar (a native official) I 
 might have remained under that tree all night. The 
 Thanedar was on his way down from Dharmsala on 
 business, and so came across me in my sad plight. When 
 he took in the situation he was very indignant at the -way in 
 which I had been treated, and most kindly put me on his 
 own horse, procured me two men to carry my baggage, and 
 sent me on my way once more. This is the third time on 
 this tour that native gentlemen, perfect strangers to me, 
 have gone considerably out of their way to help me in a 
 difficulty, and I think it is due to them to place on record 
 
THE LEPER ASYLUM , DHARMSALA. 
 
 5i 
 
 the great kindness that I have received at their hands. All 
 this trouble that I have had is very trying when one realises 
 that it was not the result of an accident, but of gross 
 carelessness. At Nurpur I had called for the Chowdri in the 
 regular way, and had arranged with him for a supply of men 
 all the way, paying also for a sarbarai (a forerunner) to 
 go on in advance and make arrangements at each stage ; 
 the whole journey was paid for in advance, according to 
 Government order, and yet not only was my time wasted 
 by eight hours’ delay on the road, but I was defrauded, 
 inasmuch as I got no men at all for the last stage, and was 
 obliged to hire extra men to take on my things. Altogether 
 it took me 19^ hours to travel 38 miles. On arrival here I 
 heard that lately, on several occasions, travellers have been 
 put to great inconvenience owing to these faulty arrange- 
 ments, and had I not been able to speak Hindustani my 
 difficulties would have been infinitely greater. I have 
 reported the matter, and the Chowdri is to be punished — 
 fined, I suppose — but I cannot but feel that the punishment 
 is not falling on the right shoulders. 
 
 November 21. D/iarmsala. I am staying here with an old 
 friend, W. B. De Courcy, Esq., and am in very comfortable 
 quarters. This morning, after breakfast, went and called on 
 Babu Mark, a native Christian in the employ of the C.M.S., 
 and after hiring a pony in the bazar, Mark and I went 
 out to the Leper Asylum, about three miles. I found six 
 men and five women in the asylum— one a young girl with 
 a pretty face, but hands and feet sadly mutilated — and had 
 a very interesting time with them, poor things. I got them 
 together and preached Christ to them ; they were most 
 attentive and seemed interested. Babu Mark tells me that 
 there are three of them who are anxious for baptism. 
 This asylum has two rows of rooms back to back, nine 
 rooms in each row, and capable of holding eighteen 
 inmates. The rooms are very small, and can accommo- 
 
52 
 
 THE LEPER ASYLUM, DHARMSALA. 
 
 date only one person each. There is another row of five 
 rooms, capable of holding ten people ; the latter rooms are 
 occupied by the women, while the men occupy the former. 
 Altogether thirty-eight lepers could be provided for in the 
 present accommodation, and it seems a pity that more of 
 them should not be taken in, when there are said to be at 
 least 800 in this district ! Indeed there is ample room for 
 more buildings on the site where the present buildings are. 
 One hundred patients could easily be arranged for. There 
 is a house for a native doctor and a room for medicines. 
 A native doctor lives on the premises, and was present 
 during my interview with the lepers. There are three 
 servants kept, and there is a good vegetable garden to 
 supply the lepers with fresh vegetables ; and yet somehow 
 the inmates did not give one the idea of being well cared 
 for. They get 2 r. 8 a. a month each, which, with vegetables 
 and clothes supplied, ought to be nearly enough for them. 
 I observed that some of the lepers seemed to wish very 
 much to speak to me privately, but they were never allowed 
 the chance. Babu Mark visits them twice a week, and 
 seems to be very well liked. I walked home with him, and 
 had a cup of tea at his house. I then called with him 
 upon Mr. and Mrs. Lemmon, of the Ghurkhas, and we had 
 some very pleasant communion one with another. Before 
 leaving we had prayer and sang the Doxology together. 
 We called also upon Mr. Christie, of the police, but were 
 disappointed to find that he was many miles away in camp, 
 and not expected home till Christmas. We then went to 
 see Mrs. Warren, widow of the late Dr. Warren, of the 
 American Presbyterian Mission at Gwalior. Mrs. Warren 
 still carries on her work at Gwalior, and is here just now 
 for a little rest and change. She tells me that there are 
 many lepers in the Gwalior State. 
 
 November 24. Monday. Arm ri tsar. I have had a very 
 good run down from Dharmsala, having accomplished the 
 
KHARE A HAND EE. 
 
 S 3 
 
 distance between Dharmsala and Patbankote in 17 J hours. 
 At every stage on the road the kahars (bearers) were 
 khare khandhe (standing with shoulders waiting for 
 their burden), a happy result of my having reported my 
 former difficulties ! 
 
 I am staying here with the Rev. Robert and Mrs. Clark, 
 of the C.M.S., and have as a fellow-guest the Rev. Mr. 
 Evans, a retired Baptist missionary, now on a temperance 
 crusade throughout India. Yesterday was a very pleasant 
 day. I had the pleasure of hearing Mr. Evans give an 
 address to the girls of the Alexandra School, and in the 
 evening went to the native Christian church service, where 
 I had a great treat in hearing a sermon in Hindustani from 
 Dr. Imad-ud-din. 
 
 To-day I have visited the Alexandra School. Miss 
 Edgeley, who is in charge, kindly showed me over the 
 whole Institution. It is a high-class school intended for 
 the daughters of well-to-do native Christians, and gives an 
 English education and English manners. The girls are 
 taught to be Christian ladies. The mistake, however, is 
 that many native Christians, who cannot be said to be well- 
 to-do, run themselves into debt in order to keep their 
 daughters there. The school has a healthy, good tone, is 
 carried on on evangelical lines, and is thoroughly well 
 conducted. There are at present fifty-eight girls. 
 
 After tiffin I drove out with Mr. and Miss Clark, and 
 called on many of the missionaries, there being a fine staff 
 of workers in this city. Two Medical Missions, under 
 Dr. Henry Martyn Clark, and Miss Hewlett; the Zenana 
 Mission, in which department Miss Wauton has been 
 longest in the field ; schools for both boys and girls, besides 
 all the evangelistic work. I am much interested in Mrs. 
 Grime’s splendid school ; it gives a vernacular, thoroughly 
 Christian, and homely education to the daughters of native 
 Christians whose position in life does not permit of their 
 
54 
 
 THE A MB ALA ASYLUM. 
 
 sending their daughters to the more expensive school. 
 There are sixty-eight girls in it at present ; they learn to 
 do their own cooking and housework, and are not supplied 
 with chairs to sit on, but must be content with mats, such 
 as they will probably have in their own homes by-and-by. 
 Mrs. Grime was most kind, and took no end of trouble 
 in explaining everything to me ; she appears to be much 
 beloved by the girls. 
 
 November 25. Tuesday. Arrived at Ambala City station 
 at 10.35 ^is morning, and was met by Mr. Wyckofif, of 
 the American Presbyterian Mission, who kindly drove me 
 home to his house, where I had a cordial welcome from 
 Mrs. Wyckoff, and found that my old friend Rev. C. B. 
 Newton, d.d., is on a visit here also. 
 
 Immediately after breakfast I called upon Dr. Jessie 
 Carleton and Miss Janvier, also of the American Presby- 
 terian Mission, and visited the Leper Asylum with them. 
 I found many old friends amongst the lepers, and was 
 warmly welcomed by them. There are thirty-eight inmates, 
 of whom twenty-one are men, and seventeen women. 
 There are no more rooms for men, but four more women 
 can be accommodated. A new barrack should be built, 
 and bathing accommodation provided as soon as possible. 
 
 I have heard of, and met with, some very interesting 
 cases here. A man named Ganga Ram arrived at the 
 railway station a short while ago, not knowing that he was 
 a leper ; but some of the officials noticed him, and insisted 
 on his leaving the train. He soon found his way into the 
 asylum, where he was kindly received ; but the poor fellow 
 got much worse, and soon died. While in the asylum he 
 used to attend the Christian services as long as he was able, 
 
 . but he at last became too bad to do so ; whereupon the 
 Christian lepers consulted together, and moved the place 
 for the services near Ganga Ram’s house, so that he might 
 hear the gospel regularly. The Christian lepers are very 
 
HAPPY RATTIA. 
 
 55 
 
 thoughtful for others, especially the helpless, and do all 
 they can for them. A leper has just died who came with 
 his wife some time ago. She was a leper when they arrived, 
 he was not ; but he would not leave her, but attended to 
 her lovingly, and at last caught the disease himself a few 
 months before his death. They were both Christians ; she 
 is still in the asylum. 
 
 There is a poor idiot lad here who found his way into the 
 asylum many years ago, and has been ever since watched 
 over by the lepers in the most tender way. Some time ago 
 there was an attempt to remove him from here ; but the 
 poor fellow was so overcome that it was pitiable to see him, 
 so he was allowed to remain. There is an old Christian 
 leper here who leads the singing with great gusto. It is 
 quite a treat to sit and look at his bright, happy old face. 
 His name is Rattia. 
 
 There is a man named Dasaundhi, who worked at his 
 trade of leather-dressing and shoemaking for eleven years 
 after he became a leper, and then, becoming too bad to 
 work any more, came to the asylum. 
 
 Miss Carleton and Miss Janvier, who constantly visit the 
 lepers, seem to have the happiest influence over them. 
 Several of the inmates have got small plots of ground 
 which they cultivate. They grow vegetables and other 
 things. 
 
 I found five of the lepers who were learning to read. 
 This is Miss Janvier’s department; while Miss Carleton 
 has the medical supervision. She is very kind and gentle, 
 as well as successful, in dealing with these awful sores and 
 ulcers. Mr. Wyckoff has the spiritual charge and general 
 superintendence of the asylum. 
 
 November 27. Before breakfast Mr. Evans (who has 
 come on here from Amritsar), Mr. Wyckoff, and I went 
 over to hold morning service with the lepers. Mr. Evans 
 kindly took charge of the 'service, and gave them a most 
 
56 “SAHIB JI, I SHOULD LIKE TO BE BAPTISED.” 
 
 impressive address in Hindi. He was listened to with 
 rapt attention ; and the lepers were very much touched 
 when he asked them what had any of their own co- 
 religionists done for them, and what had the people of 
 Christ done ? There was evidently a very deep impression 
 made. There were 28 lepers present at the service. Mr. 
 Evans got them to sing him a bhajan, and then he sang 
 one for them. At the close, having said that he was 
 pleased to hear that there were as many as 19 Christians 
 amongst them, he pressed very earnestly upon those who 
 had not yet accepted Christ the necessity of so doing, 
 when, to our surprise and delight, a man sitting in the front 
 row, a Mahommedan, raised his head and said, “Sahib ji” 
 (honoured sir), “ I should like to be baptised.” We spoke 
 with him for a few moments, and then Mr. Wyckoff 
 arranged to see him again, and examine him more 
 thoroughly. 
 
 In the evening I walked over to the asylum alone — the 
 lepers were not expecting me— and on nearing the houses 
 I heard singing, and so asked the chaukidar (caretaker) 
 what it meant. “ They are having their bandagi 
 (worship),” said he. I went quietly over to where the 
 Christians were grouped, with old Rattia leading the sing- 
 ing, his face beaming. Added to their number was the 
 man who had asked for baptism in the morning, a sure 
 sign that he meant what he had said. The chaukidar 
 having brought me a chair I sat down with them, and as 
 I looked from one face to another and studied each one 
 carefully, my heart went up in gratitude to God for all His 
 goodness to these poor sufferers. When they had finished 
 singing there was a pause, they were evidently waiting for 
 me ; but I said, “ No, you just pray yourselves whereupon 
 Rattia and another prayed most touchingly, not forgetting 
 the Queen and the Royal Family ! Her Gracious Majesty 
 would, I have no doubt, be pleased to hear that she is 
 
“WON’T YOU HAVE THEM PRINTED, SAHIB?” 
 
 57 
 
 being thus remembered by a little handful of Christian 
 lepers. This has been another wonderful prayer-meeting, 
 almost equal to that which I had in Chumba only twelve 
 days ago. I asked Rattia about one of the hymns they 
 had just been singing, and he told me it was one of Ilahi 
 Bakhsh’s. To this day the hymns of that dear leper saint, 
 who was for so long the “salt” and “light” of this asylum, 
 are remembered and sung with great delight. These hymns 
 are constantly being taught to new-comers and so get perpetu- 
 ated, and in this way they have got spread to other asylums; 
 for instance, to Tarn Taran, where some of the Christian 
 lepers who were once here have been living for some years. 
 I have come across a manuscript copy of these hymns in a 
 curious way to-day. I was paying a visit at the house of a 
 native Christian, and while there began talking about Ilahi 
 Bakhsh. Some one said, in the quietest way possible, “ There 
 are some of his bhajans here.” “Have you got them?” 
 said I. “Yes,” said they. “Oh, would you mind giving 
 them to me? I have been wishing for them for years ! ” In 
 a few moments they were “ fished ” out of a drawer, and 
 the next moment I was turning over the faded yellow leaves 
 with the greatest delight. They must have been written 
 out by some native Christian, who will have written them 
 from Ilahi Bakhsh’s own dictation. When I told the lepers 
 this evening of my find they were quite excited, and said to 
 me, “Won’t you have them printed, sahib?” Some of the 
 hymns will, I fancy, be found to be very quaint and very 
 original, probably unique, as poor old Ilahi Bakhsh was no 
 theologian, and probably still less of a poet, and yet they 
 have been a powerful influence for good amongst these poor 
 lepers. 
 
 I visited an old Bible-woman whom I had known as an 
 old woman some eighteen years ago. I had no idea that 
 she was still living ; she is wonderfully bright, though very 
 nearly blind now; she is just waiting for the call to go up 
 
TWO SWEE T LITTLE GIRLS. 
 
 5S 
 
 higher ; she seemed greatly pleased at my visiting her. At 
 first she was not able to recognise me, as she could not see 
 me and did not recognise my voice, but when I told her 
 my name she recalled everything, and said, “ Oh, yes ; I 
 remember when you were married.” 
 
 There are two very sweet little girls here, the children of 
 lepers; they have been taken in charge by Dr. Jessie 
 Carleton and Miss Janvier, and thus are being brought up 
 separate from all leprous surroundings. How well for these 
 little mites having such kind friends ; would that we could 
 thus separate all the untainted children of lepers from their 
 afflicted parents, and so give them a chance. Great was 
 the delight of these dear children when I gave them each a 
 doll, the gift of a kind friend in Upper Norwood. 
 
 Miss Carleton and I have been planning improvements in 
 the asylum here. We are most anxious to have a pair of 
 bullocks to draw a constant supply of water from the well 
 for bathing purposes, and also to supply the lepers’ gardens. 
 Our idea is to have two large tanks, one for the men, and 
 one for the women, which the bullocks would keep filled. 
 The first cost of a pair of bullocks would be about ^~io, 
 and the annual keep probably £12. A new well has just 
 been finished at a cost of 400 rupees. 
 
 
SLEEPING UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 
 
 59 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 AMBALA, SUBATHU, DEHRA. 
 
 November 28. Triday. Last night, about midnight, Mr. 
 Wyckoff and I started from Ambala, on the mail-cart, 
 for Subathu. We were to have joined it at eleven o’clock, 
 at the first stage out from Ambala Cantonments, which 
 is close to the Ambala Mission House, but we had to 
 wait for an hour on the side of the road, the mail being 
 late. When the cart drew up we found that the inside seats 
 were taken up with mail-bags and baggage of various kinds. 
 Mr. Wyckoff tried to make himself comfortable in the 
 middle of the bags, and deluded himself into the belief 
 that he was sleeping, while I sat bolt upright beside the 
 driver on a very hard seat, with an iron bar across my back; 
 by the aid of rugs, however, I managed to make myself 
 tolerably comfortable. We were drawn most of the way by 
 a pair of horses, getting fresh ones about every five miles ; 
 but at two places we had to change horses for bullocks in 
 order to get across the bed of a river. The horses go a 
 good part of each stage at a gallop, so that we made very 
 good time. Half-way we had some coffee and biscuits 
 by the roadside, where there are two rival refreshment-stalls 
 which minister to the wants of hungry and benighted 
 travellers. 
 
 Natives have the most wonderful power of putting them- 
 selves off to sleep at all hours, and under the most adverse 
 and uncomfortable circumstances, so that they do not mind 
 awakening at any hour of the night, and getting up for a 
 
6o 
 
 “IT IS AIWA VS LIKE SUSDA Y HERE. 
 
 while. I have frequently seen them deliberately getting up 
 in the middle of the night to smoke and talk ; and they 
 think nothing of awakening their companions, or of talking 
 quite loudly beside those who are sleeping. Hence the ease 
 with which we were able to procure refreshment at a 
 minute’s notice, although the stall-keepers were fast asleep 
 a moment before we arrived, and probably were faster 
 asleep a moment after we had left. After refreshment, Mr. 
 Wyckoff and I changed places, but I cannot say that I 
 could even imagine that I was sleeping ; still the change of 
 position was something. At five a.m. we arrived at Kalka, 
 at the foot of the hills. We went into Lumley’s Hotel and 
 lay down for a few hours, each on a sofa, and then had 
 some chhotf hazri, and started on horseback for Kasauli 
 at eight o’clock, where we arrived at 10.30, after a very 
 pleasant ride. At Kasauli we had a substantial breakfast, 
 and once more mounting our steeds, which in my case was 
 no easy matter, as my animal evidently thought he had had 
 enough of it, we arrived at Subathu at 2.30 p.m. 
 
 As we rode in past the prayer-room of the Leper Asylum 
 we heard strains of singing, and found that the lepers were 
 assembled having their daily service — during the winter 
 months they like meeting in the middle of the day, as the 
 mornings and evenings in this region are intensely cold. 
 Mr. Wyckoff afterwards remarked to me, “It is always like 
 Sunday here,” as one so constantly hears the sound of 
 prayer and praise — how wonderful from the precincts of a 
 leper asylum ! 
 
 Immediately on arrival we had a cup of tea in Pastor 
 Wylie’s house. He was away from home, but kindly allowed 
 us the use of his rooms. I then proceeded to visit the 
 lepers from house to house. From 3 to 5 p.m. I was 
 engaged at this most sadly interesting work : I visited 
 every house, and spoke, I think, with every leper, fifty-nine 
 of them. I had some very touching interviews. Poor 
 
Group of Lepers at Subathu Asylum, the Rev. W. J. P. Morrison, A.P.M., the native pastor, Mr. Wylie, and the native 
 medical assistant standing in the doorways . — Page 60. 
 
“I AM THE RESURRECTION AND THE LIFER 61 
 
 Jawahir, from Chumba, an old friend, was quite overcome 
 when I gave him all the kind messages with which I was 
 laden from the Christian lepers and others at Chumba, and 
 was greatly pleased when I told him that his old com- 
 panions, Rodu, Gamnu, and Kanaya, had become Christians. 
 I found on my rounds two men from the Tarn Taran 
 Asylum. They were very pleased to hear that Mr. Guilford 
 is back again at Tam Taran, and sent him many kind 
 messages. One poor fellow, when I asked him if any of 
 his relatives had been lepers, said that two of his uncles 
 had been, and as he said it he drew his sleeve across his 
 eyes to brush away the tears. Probably speaking of his 
 relations had awakened painful memories. I have chosen 
 
 a woman instead of poor Dakjhu, for Miss J ; the 
 
 new protegee is a nice bright young woman, about thirty- 
 five, not as yet much disfigured. Many people will 
 remember Dakjhu. Poor thing, she died without giving us 
 any definite hope that she had accepted Christ. There are 
 some cases of terrible mutilation in this asylum, men and 
 women whose hands and feet are much destroyed, and 
 whose poor faces are sadly marred. 
 
 November 29. Saturday, Visited the asylum again before 
 breakfast, and at 8 o’clock we all assembled in the prayer- 
 room for morning worship. I believe every leper in the 
 institution was present except one who is insane, the first 
 insane leper I have met with. One poor fellow had to be 
 carried in on the back of another. We had two bhajans, 
 very well led by one of the men from Tarn Taran, and 
 well and heartily sung by all. I then offered prayer, after 
 which I gave an address on the raising of Lazarus, and was 
 listened to with the closest attention throughout. It is a 
 great privilege to tell “the old old story” to such an 
 audience. What a majesty there is in those words, “ I am 
 the resurrection and the life,” at all times ; what a peculiar 
 power they must have had when first spoken in view of the 
 
62 
 
 DEAR JOHN NEWTON. 
 
 raising of Lazarus, and what tremendous force they seem 
 to have as one repeats them before these poor decaying 
 frames of humanity, these “ living corpses,” many of whom 
 might tell their sad tale in the words of our great poet : 
 
 “ To live a life half dead, a living death, 
 
 And buried ; but O yet more miserable ! 
 
 Myself my sepulchre, a moving grave, 
 
 Buried, yet not exempt 
 
 By privilege of death and burial 
 
 From worst of other evils, pains, and wrongs, 
 
 But made hereby obnoxious more 
 To all the miseries of life.” 
 
 I felt it, and I think the lepers did too. They were 
 much distressed when we announced that we had to leave 
 immediately ; some of them followed us out and begged 
 that we would remain with them over the Sunday. I 
 explained that I could not do so, as I had promised to be 
 back with the Ambala lepers on Sunday, but I must say 
 that I felt it terribly hard to tear myself away from them, 
 they pleaded so hard, and looked so utterly miserable. 
 Poor things, what a red-letter day it is with them when a 
 sahib from “Wilayat” (Europe) visits them, especially if 
 that sahib speaks to them of Christ, and of the love and 
 sympathy of His great heart for lepers. When I was 
 leaving, some of the lepers sent many loving messages to 
 Mrs. Newton, widow of the late Dr. John Newton, who was so 
 long connected with this asylum ; they knew that I expected 
 to meet her at Allahabad, and they begged of me to ask 
 her to come and see them. It is most touching, the loving 
 memories they have of dear John Newton. “Well done, 
 good and faithful servant,” your loving heart, so imbued 
 with the spirit of your Master, has left an impress on 
 this asylum that can never be effaced ! Generation after 
 generation of lepers will hand on your memory, and will 
 tell with awe and wonder of the famous Padri sahib who 
 was so tender in all his dealings with lepers. The sweet 
 
THIS MAN RECEIVETH SINNERS. 
 
 6 3 
 
 savour of your memory hangs to this day around these 
 poor leper huts. 
 
 We left Subathu at 10.20, and rode through to Kalka 
 without leaving the saddle, arriving there a little after 
 3 p.m. I was so stiff after my five-hours’ ride that I had 
 difficulty in dismounting, and when I did succeed in getting 
 off it was with difficulty that I could keep my feet. After 
 a little rest and something to eat we left at 5 o’clock in a 
 dak-gari (a conveyance drawn by horses) for Ambala, 
 and arrived at the Mission House at 11.15 p.m., very tired. 
 The railway line is now complete between Ambala and 
 Kalka, and will eventually, I believe, be carried on to 
 Simla, but there are no passenger trains running as yet. It 
 was aggravating in the extreme to see a goods train pass us 
 as we arrived at Kalka, tired and weary, on Friday morning 
 at 5 o’clock. 
 
 Nove 7 nber 30. Ambala. This has been a happy Lord’s- 
 day, and I have enjoyed many privileges. My tongue has 
 been loosed, and I have been speaking in Hindustani and 
 Hindi as if I had never left the country. I conducted morning 
 service for the native Christians and preached, and almost 
 immediately afterwards went over to the Leper Asylum, 
 Mr. Wyckoff and Miss Janvier accompanying me, where I 
 preached on “This man receiveth sinners, and eateth with 
 them,” and was listened to with the deepest attention. 
 There are now four candidates for baptism, one of whom is 
 not a leper. 
 
 In the evening drove in with the Wyckoffs to Canton- 
 ments, and attended service at the Presbyterian church, 
 where the Rev. W. J. P. Morrison was preaching. We had 
 a very earnest, stirring sermon on the words, “Neither is 
 there any daysman betwixt us, that might lay His hand 
 upon us both.” There was a large attendance, especially 
 of soldiers. It was very encouraging to see so many of 
 the latter, as the service was a voluntary one, and soldiers, 
 
64 
 
 TOMMY ATKINS. 
 
 as a rule, do not come out in large numbers to voluntary 
 services. It is quite evident that Mr. Morrison has caught 
 the ear and the heart of the soldier. It is always so ; where 
 men will go the right way to work they can gain a wonderful 
 influence over “ Tommy ” — a being, as a rule, careless, 
 easy-going, and light-hearted, but affectionate, and warm- 
 hearted to a degree, and one who may be easily influenced 
 for good. The writer speaks feelingly and from some little 
 experience; he has had some of his happiest hours in the 
 company of soldiers whom he has met in India. 
 
 Before retiring for the night Miss Carleton and Miss 
 Janvier joined our party, and we had a pleasant, bright 
 hour singing hymns, thus closing a very profitable day. 
 
 I am leaving Ambala to-morrow morning after a truly 
 happy stay with my friends the Wyckoffs. 
 
 December i. Monday. Left Ambala city station at 
 10.34, Mr. and Miss Wyckoff kindly seeing me off. At 
 the Cantonments station the Rev. Mr. Morrison came to 
 the train to see me, and we had a pleasant chat together 
 while the travellers who had come from a distance had 
 their breakfast in the refreshment-room. 
 
 I arrived at Saharanpore a little after 1 p.m., and was 
 met by the Rev. D. Herron (a retired missionary), with 
 whom I went to the house of the Rev. A. P. and Mrs. 
 Kelso, of the American Presbyterian Mission, old friends. 
 Mr. Herron and I visited the Women’s Asylum together, 
 and were greatly impressed and touched by what we saw. 
 There were 15 women, there are houses for 20. The 
 women are in the same place in which I saw them the last 
 time I was here, and are very comfortable as regards their 
 houses. They have a nice little place opposite to a mango 
 grove, and keep their houses neat and clean. They are 
 fairly well clothed, and get two rupees a month for their 
 food (which is scarcely sufficient), and that is all that is 
 done for them. Medicines or medical attendance they 
 
WHERE ARE THERE ANY FEET ? 
 
 65 
 
 have none (at least so they told us). No one ever visits 
 them except officially; no one ever comes near them to 
 tell them of the love of Jesus, or to bring a ray of sympathy or 
 comfort into their poor desolate lives. They are outcasts 
 of the outcast. “How do you cook your food?” said I. 
 “ In this way,” said one poor creature, bringing out from 
 beneath her chaddar two fingerless (literally so) stumps, 
 and showing us how she worked her simple flour and water 
 cakes. “ Let me see your feet,” said I to ahother. 
 “Where are there any feet?” she replied, producing two 
 stumps destitute of toes. “ What do you do when you get 
 very ill?” I said. “We go into our house and die, and 
 then the bhangis (sweepers, lowest caste) carry us away 
 and bury us.” We gave them two rupees to buy themselves 
 some native sweatmeats as a little treat, for which they were 
 profuse in their thanks ; and so we left them, to talk for 
 days and weeks, I suppose, of the visit of two sahibs who 
 were kind to them. 
 
 I am leaving Saharanpore at 9 p.m. by mail-van for 
 Dehra. This mail-van is a much more comfortable one 
 than that on the Kalka line. It is covered over, and there 
 is room inside for two people to lie at full length, there 
 being a small partition near where the head and shoulders 
 come, to divide the occupants one from the other. For- 
 tunately I have the whole conveyance to myself, and so am 
 able to make myself very comfortable. 
 
 December 2. Tuesday. Dehra. Arrived here this morning 
 at 7 a.m. after a fairly good night in the mail-van. I am 
 putting up for the day with Dr. MacLaren, who is Civil 
 Surgeon of Dehra, and in charge of the Civil Hospital, the 
 Jail, and Leper Asylum, &c. 
 
 After breakfast Dr. MacLaren kindly took me round and 
 showed me all of the above institutions, in all of which I 
 was greatly interested, especially, of course, the Asylum. 
 Dr. MacLaren keeps everything in apple-pie order, and it 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 A SAD CONTRAST. 
 
 needs but a very casual inspection to see that he is a 
 master organiser, and that method and regularity are strong 
 points with him. The approach to the Leper Asylum is 
 very good. There is a long avenue fringed by small 
 mango trees, and a nice garden in front of the entrance. 
 All Dehra is beautiful, and the situation of the asylum is 
 one of the loveliest. When you turn your back on the 
 gateway, and look straight in front, you have the Dehra 
 Station in the foreground, while beyond, and in front, lying 
 on the bosom of a magnificent panorama of hills, you see 
 Mussoorie and Landour. It is curious that so many of the 
 leper asylums should be so prettily situated ; but it is so, 
 and yet I fear the lepers do not much appreciate the 
 beauties of nature. In the first place they are not educated 
 to it, and even were they, their own poor lives are so 
 blotted and blurred that everything around must partake of 
 the same appearance to them. I gazed with delight on the 
 wonderful scene before me, and drank it all in before 
 facing round and entering the gate, where I was im- 
 / mediately confronted with the ghastly sight of poor 
 distorted and mutilated humanity. How mysterious it 
 all seemed ! Grandeur and beauty on the one hand ; 
 sorrow, pain, corruption, and death on the other. But we 
 • ! are told that not only is there to be “ a new heaven and a 
 new earth,” but also “ there shall be no more death, neither 
 ) sorrow, nor crying, neither shall there be any more pain.” 
 ■ The present beautiful earth and heaven not good enough ; 
 and the pain and sorrow, &c., that mar the earth, all to be 
 done away ! 
 
 Outside the asylum, and a little on one side of it, are 
 two small houses, the smaller of the two occupied by 
 Padiya, the leper catechist, who keeps it as neat as possible. 
 The larger, more the style of a bungalow, with two small 
 rooms and a bathroom, by Mr. J., a European leper. He 
 is now in his forty-sixth year, and was at one time in a 
 
A EUROPEAN LEPER. 
 
 67 
 
 good situation in a Government office, but about nineteen 
 years ago he developed leprosy. After visiting London to 
 consult the best physicians, he has now given up hope of 
 being cured, and having wandered from place to place, has 
 found at last a place of rest here, and a kind friend in 
 Dr. MacLaren. The good doctor has had this little house 
 put up for him, and has placed him in charge of the 
 asylum as an overseer ; and so he has not only found rest, 
 but also occupation, and something to give him an interest 
 in life — the life he has still to live. Mr. J., having been in 
 Government employ, has a small pension, enough for his 
 wants — his house being provided for him — and so requires 
 no pay for his services. Poor fellow ! it is pitiful to see 
 him go about on his crutches, looking so sad and lonely. 
 I sat with him for some time, and spoke of rest in Christ. 
 I also sat with Padiya for a time, and found him cheerful 
 and happy, and modest in manner as usual. He took a 
 great pride in showing me his neat little house. On one of 
 the walls hung the photo of a kind lady friend in Ireland, 
 to whom he sent many salams. I have visited the asylum 
 twice to-day; once in company with Dr. MacLaren, and 
 afterwards by myself. The second time I had a short 
 service with the lepers. 
 
 The inmates of this asylum are well cared for, men and 
 women are kept apart, and only meet when services are 
 held, or on special occasions. It is very pleasant to go 
 round with Dr. MacLaren and see the kind and sympathetic 
 way in which he speaks to the lepers, and the appreciative 
 way in which they receive him. Whenever he goes out 
 hunting and gets deer or wild boar, the lepers are never 
 forgotten, but get their share, which they appreciate very 
 much, except in the case of Mahommedans, who would not 
 enjoy the pig. There is some tea growing in the asylum 
 garden which yields about 70 lbs. in the year, and this is all 
 given to the lepers. 
 
6S 
 
 UNA’S TKEA TMENT. 
 
 There are at present ninety-nine inmates, of whom sixty 
 are men, thirty-two women, and seven children ; of the 
 children, one, a boy of eight, is just developing leprosy ; 
 his younger brother, aged three, is still being nursed by his 
 poor leprous mother. There are twelve Christians, including 
 Padiya — eight of the twelve are communicants. There is 
 one enquirer just now ; five lepers are learning to read ; two 
 have become Christians during the year. Several of the 
 old Christians have died lately. 
 
 Pastor Manoah, of the Reformed Presbyterian Church, 
 has spiritual charge of the institution. 
 
 Dr. MacLaren tells me that he recently made a very 
 exhaustive enquiry into the antecedents of all the inmates 
 of the asylum, and found that 36.4 of the cases were 
 distinctly traceable to heredity. In speaking of remedies 
 he says, “ During the year experiments have been made 
 with ‘Aristol’ and ‘Una’s treatment’ (Resorcin and 
 Ichthyol). These in many cases have given some relief in 
 the shape of better general health, with markedly improved 
 appetite, and the healing up of ulcers ; but there is not the 
 least appearance of permanent benefit, or of any ameliora- 
 tion of the actual disease.” 
 
 I had the pleasure to-day of calling on Mr. and Mrs. 
 Thackwell, and Miss Wherry, of the American Presbyterian 
 Mission — old friends. In connection with their work there 
 is a celebrated high-class Christian Girls’ School, well 
 known all over the Punjab and N.W. Provinces. This 
 school was, I believe, founded by the Rev. David Herron, 
 our Hon. Secretary for India, who has now retired from 
 active service in the mission-field, and labours amongst 
 Europeans in Chakrata, Himalayas. 
 
 
A NIGHT IN A MAIL -VAN. 
 
 69 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 MORADABAD AND ALMORA. 
 
 December 3. Wednesday. Moradabad. I left Dehra last 
 night by the mail-van, and travelling all night, arrived at 
 Sabaranpore this morning at an early hour, in time to catch 
 the 6.50 train for this place. I had not the whole of the 
 van to myself as on the previous night, and so was corres- 
 pondingly uncomfortable ; but, even with two people, the 
 mail-van between Dehra and Saharanpore is not at all a bad 
 conveyance, and I can recommend it to any man travelling 
 alone, especially as it is an immense saving on the ordinary 
 private conveyance. 
 
 I reached this place this morning at 1 1 o’clock, and found 
 that Mr. Mackintosh, the Collector, whom I wished to see, 
 was away in camp, so I called upon the Joint Magistrate, 
 whom I saw in his court, and obtained leave from him to 
 visit the Leper Asylum, recently put up by Mr. Mackintosh, 
 and supported by the Municipality. I then called upon 
 Dr. and Mrs. Parker, of the Methodist Episcopal Mission, 
 and found that Mr. Evans, whom I had already met at 
 Amritsar and Ambala, and who had just travelled in the 
 train with me from Rurki, was putting up with them. 
 They very kindly asked me to spend the rest of the day 
 with them, and I most gladly assented to the arrangement. 
 I count it a great privilege thus to become acquainted with 
 so many of the Lord’s servants in the Mission Field, and 
 to get to know something of the work they are engaged in 
 for Him. 
 
70 
 
 MORADABAD ASYLUM. 
 
 In the afternoon I drove out to see the new Leper Asylum : 
 i: is situated some distance from the city, at a lake called 
 Sigar Tal. The huts have only lately been built, and were 
 occupied for the first time in March of this year. There 
 are iS rooms for men and 15 for women. The inmates 
 at present number 17; viz., 11 men and 6 women. The 
 place is very small for the purpose, and stands drearily out 
 by itself, with no shade of any kind. I suppose trees will be 
 got up in time. What seemed so aggravating was the fact 
 that there is a fine mango grove not far off. where the poor 
 lepers might have had beautiful shade. The asylum is 
 totally inadequate for the wants of this district, or even of 
 this city: in the latter there are said to be 100 lepers. I 
 know that within the first ten minutes of my stay I saw 
 three unfortunates on the roadside. The inmates of the 
 asylum are well fed and clothed, and get medicines also. 
 If there were some trees to sit under, and a few plots 
 of ground for them to cultivate, these would be a great 
 boon. The monotony of a life spent within the court- 
 yard of a Leper Asylum, with nothing to do from morn 
 till night but brood over suffering and wrong — for many 
 /of these poor people will probably have been driven 
 I from their homes by their relations — must be something 
 : dreadful. The men are in one yard and the women 
 in another, with a line of houses back to back acting 
 as a division and a barrier : there is a small window 
 in the middle of each house so that the inmates on 
 both sides can converse one with another. I found 
 an old man in one room whose old wife was in the 
 corresponding room on the other side. The old man 
 pleaded with me that I would get his wife restored 
 to him. My heart ached for him, and I could not 
 but ask myself the question, Has any one any right 
 thus to separate man and wife, especially’ when they have 
 { come to such an age, when the woman is long past 
 
THE LEPER PROBLEM. 
 
 7i 
 
 child-bearing, and when man and wife need each other ' 
 more than at any other period of their married life? The 
 Leper problem is an exceedingly difficult one — one that it 
 will take our best statesmen to solve — men of sound judg- 
 ment and of Christian principle, men who will remember that 
 there is the leper’s side to the question as well as the side of 
 public good. Oh for some one with the love of Christ in 
 his or her heart, who would visit these poor sufferers occasion- 
 ally, and seek to bring some consolation and comfort into 
 their dreary lot ! The Mission to Lepers in India has 
 resolved to give a small annual grant to this institution, and 
 to employ a catechist to visit the place regularly. 
 
 On my way back from the Leper Asylum I arrived in the 
 city in time to get into a temperance meeting which was 
 being held by Mr. Evans. There was a large attendance 
 of Hindu, Mahommedan, and Christian natives, besides a 
 few Europeans. After Mr. Evans had finished his address, 
 which was evidently much appreciated, Dr. Parker, who 
 was in the chair, asked me to say a few words, and tell them 
 something about the Leper work. This was the first time 
 I had ever been asked to speak on behalf of the lepers in 
 a public meeting in Hindustani, and as it was a mixed 
 audience, and not a religious meeting, I was precluded 
 from touching the Christian side of my subject, shorn of 
 which it is a very gruesome and hopeless one. At the end 
 of the meeting the chairman asked for a show of hands as 
 to who would be total abstainers, first confining it to the 
 Hindus and Mahommedans present, and then asking the 
 Christians. I was delighted to find that the Christians 
 were at least three to one. 
 
 After the meeting was over I returned with the mission 
 party, and spent a very pleasant evening with them and 
 their friends. Miss Sheldon, m.d., was present, and she and 
 I had some conversation regarding the lepers : she seemed 
 anxious to do something for them. The Methodist Epis- 
 
72 
 
 SIR HENR Y RAMS A Y. 
 
 copal Mission is in strong force here, and is working the 
 field splendidly : they meet with much success. I left the 
 Mission House at 10.30, after a very pleasant evening, and 
 started for Bareilly at 11.30. 
 
 December 4. Thursday. Arrived at Bareilly this morning 
 early, and changed into the Narrow Gauge Railway for 
 Katgodam, where I arrived at ir.30 a.m. Katgodam is at 
 the foot of the Hills, and is the terminus of the railway. 
 Shortly after my arrival, Dr. and Mrs. Dease, of the 
 American Episcopal Methodist Mission, also arrived, on 
 their way down from the Hills to the Plains. Dr. Dease, a 
 medical missionary, has been for some years in charge of 
 the Mission work at Pithoragarh, a station in the Himalayas, 
 about fifty miles beyond Almora. Amongst other work, 
 Dr. Dease has kindly taken charge of the Leper Asylum 
 at Chandag, Pithora ; but now I fear we are to lose his 
 services, as his health has not been good, and he has been 
 ordered not to live in the Hills. He gave me a very 
 cheery account of the Chandag Asylum. He considers 
 that we shall have to increase our work there very much, 
 as we get so many lepers from Nepal, where, it is said, 
 lepers are still put to death ; where, at all events, they are 
 very badly treated, in consequence of which they flee across 
 the border into British territory, whenever they can manage 
 to do so. The cases which come to us from Nepal are 
 very awful ones. 
 
 On reaching Katgodam to-day I received a kind note 
 from Sir Henry Ramsay, from Almora. He has sent me a 
 sturdy little hill-pony to carry me while in the Hills : the 
 little beast is something like a Shetland pony, shaggy, dark 
 brown. He is a tower of strength, and seems to make 
 nothing of my weight. Riding on him will be very much 
 like riding in an arm-chair. I left Katgodam at x p.m., and 
 after a pleasant ride arrived at Bheemtal, the first stage up, 
 at 3.30 p.m. The Dak Bungalow is beautifully situated 
 
TAPPS E ” AND “CANDLE FRUITS : 
 
 73 
 
 above a magnificent large, clear lake ; here I am putting 
 up for the night. 
 
 December 5. Peora Dak Bungalow. I was well taken 
 care of at the Bheemtal Bungalow last night ; the servants 
 were most attentive. I am struck by the great improvement 
 in the attendance and style of food one gets in many of 
 the Dak Bungalows nowadays; evidently the ubiquitous 
 globe-trotter is making his mark on these things, and the 
 servants at the different bungalows find it pays to have 
 things nice. When the Khansama (cook, and man in 
 charge) presented me with my bill to-day I was amused to 
 find an entry for “ tappee,” evidently intended for “ toffee,” 
 which was the name he had given to some cocoanut sweet- 
 meat which he had prepared for the table. At another 
 place I was offered candle (sic) fruits. 
 
 I left Bheemtal this morning at eight o’clock, and arrived 
 at Ramgarh, which stands very high, at eleven. There I 
 breakfasted, and was in the saddle again at one. My little 
 “Shetlander” did splendidly, bringing me to this place at 
 4 p.m. Twenty-five miles he has carried me to-day, up and 
 down these tremendous ascents and descents. He was as 
 fresh as possible when I got here, in fact, / was by far the 
 more tired of the two. Just now I am sitting at a small 
 table, outside the bungalow, alone in my glory, and having 
 a cup of afternoon tea under the most entrancing of circum- 
 stances. I wish I could do the scene anything like justice. 
 The air is delicious — cool without being cold ; warm 
 without being hot; a delicious blending of heat and cold, 
 with a clear, dry, balmy atmosphere. At my feet lies a 
 beautiful valley, well-wooded with pine-trees ; beyond that 
 another valley, and then the Almora ridge, with Alrnora 
 lying along the top of it for two miles — from the leper 
 asylum at this end to the mission premises at the other; 
 both visible from here. Beyond that again more mountains 
 and valleys ; and then, in the far-off background, rising up 
 
74 
 
 “ THESE ARE THY WORKS, O COD. 
 
 into the heavens, the everlasting snows, with twenty-five 
 peaks in view at one time, and towering like a monarch in 
 their midst, the sacred Badrinath — a place of pilgrimage, 
 and one that means so much to millions of poor, blinded, 
 and misguided Hindus. To add to this wonderful scene 
 the sun is setting, and so lighting up the whole snowy 
 range with a wonderful glory. There is absolute stillness ; 
 one feels alone with God. As I gaze in awe and wonder 
 at it all, involuntarily there rise to my lips the words, 
 “ These are Thy works, O God ” ; and again, “ As the 
 mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the Lord is round 
 about His people from henceforth and even for ever.” 
 
 Talking of afternoon tea reminds me to mention some- 
 thing that I have' been observing with great pleasure since 
 my arrival in India this time ; viz., the great change in the 
 drinking customs of Europeans. Brandy “ pegs " are 
 nothing like as much taken as they were when I first knew 
 India. Indeed, comparatively speaking, brandy is very 
 little used now. Never shall I forget my feeling the first 
 day I set foot in Calcutta, in the year 1869. It was the 
 day before a cyclone, in the month of June, there being at 
 the time that terrific pall of heat which usually precedes 
 the bursting of the monsoon. I had a letter of introduction 
 to a man in Calcutta, an officer who was on leave, supposed 
 to be reading for an examination. I found him at 12 o’clock 
 in the day sitting at a table in the verandah with three 
 companions, clad only in their under-vests and sleeping- 
 drawers, playing cards and drinking brandy and soda (pegs) ; 
 and the first hospitality I was offered on the shores of India 
 was a peg ! Now much of this is changed, thank God. 
 When men arrive at a Dak Bungalow or at a hotel in the 
 afternoon they will call for their afternoon tea; whereas it 
 used invariably to be, “Peg lao ” (Bring a peg, a brandy 
 and soda). Another good sign of the times is that light 
 wines are largely taking the place of brandy and whiskey. 
 
A GRATIFYING RECEPTION. 
 
 75 
 
 December 6 . Saturday. Almora. Left Peora at 8 o’clock, 
 and arrived here at io, at least I reached the gate of the 
 Leper Asylum at that hour. It is the first place one comes 
 to on entering the station of Almora. I had a most wonder- 
 ful reception from the lepers. Bond, the caretaker, and M. 
 were at the gate with several of the lepers, and as it got 
 wind that I had arrived, others of the lepers came hobbling 
 up the steep paths from all directions. It was a most 
 gratifying reception — smiles of welcome and salams on all 
 sides, smiles on poor faces, so distorted many of them that 
 smiles seem to ill become them. Oh, there are some awful, 
 awful cases here ! There are two dear little girls with the 
 disease. M. has grown to a very nice-looking lad. He is 
 rather a handsome boy, and his face is happily not at all 
 marked, but his hands and feet are bad. I had a little talk 
 with him and his mother together. She seems very fond of 
 him, and the eyes of both filled with tears as I spoke to 
 them. Both mother and son are Christians. The welcome 
 from dear old Musuwa was the most touching of any. 
 Though his eyes are sightless, yet his face lighted up in a 
 wonderful way as soon as he realised my presence ; and 
 when I spoke to him he bowed down his head and salamed 1 
 again and again many times before raising it up. He then 
 told me that he had been very ill, nearly dying, but that 
 God had spared him, perhaps it was to meet me once again, 
 anyhow he was ready to go whenever it was Parmeshwar’s 
 (God’s) will to call him. Musuwa has been longer in the 
 asylum and longer a Christian than any other inmate. The 
 Rev. H. Coley, formerly of Almora, and well acquainted 
 with this asylum, in a speech at Exeter Hall in May, 1890, 
 said, “There is an old friend of mine amongst those lepers, 
 old Musuwa. You have read Drummond’s book on Tropical 
 Africa , I daresay, and you will remember one instance 
 where he speaks of his old African servant, old Moolu, and 
 he says that he was a man who always did his duty, and 
 
76 “/ BELIEVE IN OLD MUSUWA.” 
 
 never told a lie — a man who was always ready to pray at 
 the end of a day’s march; and ‘because of old Moolu,’ he 
 goes on to say, ‘ I believe in Missions because I believe in 
 Moolu.’ I believe in Missions to-day because I do really 
 believe in old Musuwa ; and I would like you to know that 
 if ever there was a man whose life had been completely 
 transformed, it is poor old Musuwa, though he is only a 
 poor, blind, crippled leper.” 
 
 There are in lepers in the asylum just now,* of whom 
 56 are men, 55 are women, 79 are Christians, and there are 
 40 communicants. Sixteen have died during the year, and 
 16 died last year. 
 
 After spending about an hour with the lepers I rode on 
 to the old Mission House, where the last time I was here 
 I had the great pleasure of meeting dear Mr. Budden. He is 
 now at rest, and his works do follow him ; and not the least 
 of these is this well-organised Leper Asylum, which he and 
 Sir Henry Ramsay planned between them, and over which 
 they had so many prayerful consultations from time to time. 
 Miss Mary Budden, who has now two ladies assisting her — 
 Miss Meachen and Miss Turner — gave me a very hearty 
 welcome to her house, where I am putting up during my 
 stay in Almora. The Rev. G. M. Bulloch and Mrs. 
 Bulloch also received me most cordially. Mr. Bulloch is the 
 senior missionary here at present, and is in charge of the 
 Leper Asylum. All the mission work here is under the 
 care of the London Missionary Society. 
 
 In writing of the admissions to the Leper Asylum for 
 the past year Mr. Bulloch says : 
 
 “ One of the admissions of the year was a woman with 
 a little baby, the latter a bonnie, bright, happy scrap of 
 1 humanity, with no sign of disease at present about him. 
 The mother, Saduli, who is suffering from a very violent 
 
 * The number has since risen to 132. 
 
THE COMMUNION WITH THE LEPERS. 
 
 77 
 
 type of leprosy, has consented to her child being removed 
 from her and taken care of in the Orphanage, where there 
 is some chance of the little fellow being saved; for there 
 are some now living in Almora who, having been early 
 removed from their leprous mothers, have grown to maturity 
 without developing any sign of the disease. We have just 
 begun to use the new remedy so strongly recommended by 
 Dr. Unna, a supply of which has been sent to us by the 
 Government of India for experiment upon special patients. 
 It is earnestly to be hoped that it may be successful, if not 
 in permanently eradicating the disease, in at least alleviating 
 some of the more terrible aspects of it. There are many 
 things we could write about this truly Christ-like work ; but 
 these may suffice for the present to keep up the sympathy 
 which we are so glad to see has been elicited of late on 
 behalf of our unfortunate fellow-creatures, some of whom 
 have become, through God’s goodness, members with us of 
 the Church of Christ, and fellow-heirs of His Kingdom.” 
 
 In the afternoon I called, with Miss Budden, upon Sir 
 Henry and Lady Ramsay. Sir Henry has now retired from 
 all official duties, but, as of old, takes the deepest interest in 
 all that concerns the spread of Christ’s kingdom in these 
 Hills, especially in the welfare of the Leper Asylum. I 
 was indeed glad to meet these old friends once more. 
 
 December 7. Sunday. Almora. I have preached three 
 times to-day, twice in Hindustani and once in English. I 
 have partaken of the Communion twice, once at the service 
 for native Christians in the morning, and afterwards with 
 the lepers. There were seventy-nine of the lepers at their 
 ordinary service. Mr. Bulloch conducted the devotional 
 part and baptised eight candidates, five men and three 
 women; then I addressed them. After that Mr. Bulloch 
 conducted the Communion Service. It was a most touching 
 sight altogether; one poor fellow had to be carried in on 
 another’s back to be baptized. When the collection was 
 
BAPTISM OF EIGHT LEPERS. 
 
 ;s 
 
 being taken it was touching in the extreme to see some of 
 them putting in their coppers with their little spoons of 
 hands, there not being a vestige of a finger left. Some of 
 the communicants, not being able to hold the cup, just 
 opened their mouths and had the wine poured in. It 
 would be impossible to say how much I enjoyed the 
 service, it was such a joy to see all those upturned, eager 
 faces, and to have such a glorious Gospel to preach to 
 them. Of this Sunday service the Rev. Mr. Bulloch gives 
 the following deeply intereresting account in the Chronicle 
 of the London Missionary Society for March, 1S91 : 
 
 “ Last Sunday was a deeply interesting day at the Almora 
 Leper Asylum. Mr. Bailey, the secretary of the Mission to 
 Lepers, was with us, and as we had been expecting him 
 for some weeks, we delayed till he came the giving of 
 baptism to eight candidates who had been for some time 
 seeking the privilege of joining the Christians by this out- 
 ward sign. They have been receiving instruction for a 
 considerable time, and have shown great eagerness in 
 trying to understand the things of the kingdom of God, 
 and have been very attentive to and appreciative of the 
 efforts on their behalf. Poor creatures ! none of them 
 have any reason to hope to get rid of the leprosy of their 
 bodies, so far has the disease ravaged their systems ; but I 
 believe they have experienced something of the hope of 
 being rid of the leprosy of the soui caused by sin, and 
 which bears such a remarkable analog}' in many respects to 
 that terrible scourge of the physical system. One poor 
 fellow — Mangaluwa — who came up for baptism, was so help- 
 less that he could not come to church; but another Christian 
 leper, who is not so helpless and has taken a considerable 
 interest in Mangaluwa, volunteered to carry him to church 
 that he might be baptized there along with the others, 
 rather than have it done in his barrack room. It was 
 indeed a deeply touching sight to see Bijua hobbling along, 
 
TOUCHING SIGHTS. 
 
 79 
 
 for his own feet are toeless, with his friend Mangaluwa on t 
 his back, along the shady paths of the Asylum grounds to' 
 the church. Just behind them was another group of three, 
 two of whom were helping a third one between them up 
 to the house of prayer. Another unfortunate was painfully 
 crawling along on all fours, and obliged every few steps to 
 call a halt in order to get relief ; for besides being terribly 
 crippled, he was suffering from asthma, one of the afflictions 
 which often accompanies leprosy. All of the eight candidates 
 had several times given a clear account of the hope that 
 was in them, and just before the service Mr. Bailey asked 
 them several questions to see how far they realised their 
 position, and each and all were clear on the points of their 
 own sinfulness and helplessness and need of a Saviour, and 
 of their entire dependence on the Lord Jesus Christ for' 
 salvation. After I baptized them Mr. Bailey gave them a 
 short address, reminding them of the Saviour’s tenderness 
 and love, and how anxious He was that they, though lepers 
 and outcasts from men, should respond to His love and 
 become inheritors of the kingdom of purity. Dilated eyes 
 and eager faces drank in most greedily the oft-repeated but 
 ever new message of the love of God to fallen man, and it 
 would be difficult to find a more interested or attentive 
 audience than that which can be got in the church of the 
 Almora Leper Asylum. 
 
 At the close of the baptismal service thirty-three communi- 
 cants surrounded the table of the Lord to commemorate 
 His love. Of these four joined with us for the first time, 
 each one of whom had given full evidence in their conduct 
 of their fitness to assemble in the church and be called 
 Christians. A fifth candidate, Jai Krishna, had been looking 
 forward for some time to the enjoyment of the privilege oi 
 this fellowship ; but he, poor man, was too ill in his barrack 
 to be able to come to church. Still he realised the presence 
 of the Redeemer in his hut, and we trust he may yet recover 
 
So 
 
 TOUCHING SIGHTS. 
 
 sufficiently to be able to assemble with us at the table of 
 the Lord on earth ; but if not, then he has the hope of 
 sitting down with the Master in our Father’s kingdom. I 
 am sure that if some of the more favoured of the house- 
 hold of faith could have but joined us in this feast of love 
 with these helpless lepers, they must have had their hearts 
 moved for their deeply-afflicted brethren and sisters in 
 Christ. So helpless is their state, they cannot take the 
 bread in their hands, for they have none; but with their 
 stumps of hands they hold up a portion of their chaddar, 
 or body-cloth, to receive the bread, and thus pass it into 
 their mouths; and there is no possibility of passing the 
 cup from hand to hand, as is the custom in most churches, 
 but Bond, my assistant, who also acts as deacon in the 
 leper church, passes round amongst them and pours the 
 wine into their open mouths. Solemn and touching is the 
 way in which these people take the cup, and it has often 
 reminded me of the spiritual attitude we are counselled to 
 adopt by God in order to receive His blessings : “ Open 
 thy mouth wide, and I will fill it.” The utter helplessness 
 | and dependence of these folks on others is a continual 
 picture of the way sinners have to come to God and get 
 His blessing. 
 
GIFTS FROM ENGLAND. 
 
 81 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 ALMORA AND CHANDA DSL 
 
 December 8. Monday. Almora. A very busy day. Began, 
 after doing some writing, by visiting Miss Budden’s schools, 
 where I saw Miriam, supported by the Mariners’ Sunday 
 School, Kingstown, her sister and little brother. Miriam is 
 a nice child, very good to her brother and sister, and a great 
 pet of Miss Budden’s. I saw also Kamuli, supported by 
 St. Michael’s children; she is a pretty and clever child. 
 Through the kindness of a friend in Upper Norwood, who 
 shortly before I left home for India sent me a box of very 
 pretty dolls, I was enabled to make these little people very 
 happy, even the little boy being overjoyed at getting one. 
 Breakfasted with Mr. and Mrs. Bulloch, and afterwards went 
 to the asylum with Mr. Bulloch, where we remained till 2.30. 
 Miss Budden arrived at the asylum shortly after us, having 
 brought down the children from the home, as a great treat, 
 to see their parents. Then came the distribution of Mrs. S.’s 
 beautiful chaddars from Brighton, to those who attended 
 best at Miss Budden’s Bible-class. Each chaddar has a text, 
 just chapter and verse, neatly written on a little bit of white 
 silk and sewn on. As we gave each Mr. Bulloch called out 
 the chapter and verse. I found it out in the Hindustani 
 Bible and read it aloud, while Miss Budden presented the 
 chaddar. When we had given all we made them put them 
 on before going away, and it was a sight not soon to be 
 forgotten — they were greatly delighted. I asked them what 
 message I was to give to the Mem Sahiba who had been so 
 
 G 
 
S 2 
 
 FRIGHTENED AT A DOLL ! 
 
 kind to them ; one woman spoke up for the rest, and said, 
 “ Bahut bahut piyar ke salam, aur ham bare shukr guzar 
 hain.” (Many loving greetings, and we are very grateful). 
 
 Little Bhawani and Kamuli, leper girls supported by 
 Miss L. and a Brighton Bible-class, received a doll each, 
 Bhawani was charmed, but Kamuli was quite terrified. 
 Think of it, dear children, frightened at a pretty doll ! But 
 then she thought it was a bhut (an evil spirit). It was only 
 on Miss Budden’s assurance that it was nothing of the kind 
 that she at last consented to have it. It was almost ghastly 
 to see one of the leper women take the doll from one of 
 these leper girls, and, holding the prettily-dressed little 
 thing in her poor mutilated hands, dance it about on the 
 floor. There being no present suitable for M., I gave him 
 a rupee to buy himself something, at which he was greatly 
 pleased. We then read him Miss B.’s letter from Brighton ; 
 he felt all the kind expressions it contained very deeply, 
 and wept quietly as we read. 
 
 After leaving the asylum I rode over and lunched with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Oakley, l.m.s., and in the evening went to 
 the native Christian Monthly Social Gathering. At this 
 gathering there is always a paper read out on some special 
 subject, and then there is friendly discussion ; all the con- 
 versation, the paper, and the discussion are in Hindustani. 
 The missionaries all take part in it as well as the natives, 
 but the paper is by a native brother. When we had all 
 assembled, refreshments were handed round amidst pleasant 
 conversation ; then came the paper, after which there was a 
 little discussion, and then I was asked to tell the company 
 something of my experience in the leper work. This I did, 
 telling them at the same time a little of what I had seen in 
 different missions that I had visited. They were all much 
 interested in what I had to tell them, and after I had 
 finished they very kindly committed me and my work to 
 God in prayer. I am greatly touched by the kindness I 
 
CALLED IN TO SEE THE KING. 
 
 83 
 
 receive everywhere from these dear native Christians. This 
 meeting with the native brethren is a fitting close to a 
 short, but very delightful visit. 
 
 December 9. Tuesday. Left Miss Budden’s hospitable 
 roof this morning at 8 o’clock, receiving, as I rode away 
 from her door, a kind invitation to stay with her and her 
 colleagues the next time I come to Almora. I called at 
 Sir Henry Ramsay’s on my way out of the station, but he 
 had gone out to see the 3rd Gurkhas away — they are 
 leaving for a few months on the Plains — and as he returned 
 by another road from that on which I was travelling we 
 missed each other; so I did not get to say good-bye, for 
 which I was very sorry. 
 
 When I reached the leper asylum gate I found the lepers, 
 those who had sufficient powers of locomotion to get thu-s 
 far, assembled to see me off ; even the two girlies with their 
 dolls, at least I saw one of the dolls. It was a most 
 touching sight, and I felt it hard to say good-bye ; this visit 
 has been such a bright spot in their lives. Poor Musuwa 
 is very ill and suffering. I do not think he can live much 
 longer now. It will be a happy release; and oh, what a 
 change for him when he sees “the King in His beauty !”* 
 
 The native Christian caretaker, Mr. Bond, was at the 
 gate with the others. He and his wife have now been 
 many years in charge of the Asylum, and seem to secure 
 the confidence and affection of the lepers, and as they 
 have had long experience in the management of these poor 
 sufferers their services are much appreciated. 
 
 From the Leper Asylum to the river, a distance of about 
 two miles, the road is one continuous descent, becoming 
 almost perpendicular as it nears the narrow bridge which 
 crosses the river. As I neared this spot I found the 
 
 * News has since come that on the 4th September, 1891, Musuwa 
 was called in to see the King. 
 
A WELCOME CUP OF LEA. 
 
 S 4 
 
 entrance to the bridge completely blocked by a struggling 
 mass of baggage mules and drivers, the latter shouting and 
 gesticulating wildly, and heaping abuse not only on the 
 unfortunate mules, but on their ancestors for many genera- 
 tions back. I was obliged to dismount; and after some 
 delay, and no little difficulty, to say nothing of the possibility 
 of either being impaled on a tent pole or precipitated into 
 the river, I dragged my poor little pony safely to the other 
 side. The baggage was that of the Gurkhas, and shortly 
 after I came upon the officers, having their chhoti hazri 
 by the roadside. Colonel Bishop, the commanding officer, 
 called out, ‘"'Good morning. Will you have a cup of tea?” 
 I gladly accepted his kind offer, and jumping off my pony 
 joined the pleasant party. How charmingly unconventional 
 everything is in India, and what hospitality one meets with 
 on all hands. I was a perfect stranger to the whole party, 
 and yet this kindness. When I had finished I was about 
 to remount, when the Colonel again said, “ Wait for a 
 moment, and I will be with you.” I gladly did so, and he 
 and I rode along together to Peora, he on his fine charger, 
 and I on my diminutive “Shetland.” The road was lined 
 with troops and baggage mules, so that it was difficult to 
 get along in places ; but having the C. O. with me I was 
 all right, as everyone made way for him. On arrival at the 
 Bungalow I was introduced to Mrs. Bishop and another 
 lady of the Camp, and was entertained to breakfast by 
 Col. and Mrs. Bishop, and their two pretty little girls. 
 After breakfast we all sat outside the Bungalow, and I 
 was much interested in watching for the first time the 
 Heliograph, which was being very well worked by two of 
 the Gurkhas. Heliography is a system of signalling by 
 flashing the rays of the sun, a small mirror being used for 
 the purpose ; it is now largely used by the Military Depart- 
 ment, and is specially suitable for mountain manoeuvres, as 
 points of vantage for flashing are so easily obtainable. In 
 
FAREWELL TO THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 '5 
 
 this instance there was not the slightest difficulty in flashing 
 the news of the morning paper, which had arrived after our 
 departure, from Almora to Peora, a distance of ten miles. 
 
 At last I was obliged to leave, in order to reach my next 
 stopping-place before nightfall. Col. Bishop very kindly 
 accompanied me a considerable distance on my road after 
 I had left Peora, so that this day’s journey has been much 
 shortened by all the kindness I have met with. 
 
 As I rode along I suddenly saw a dense smoke issuing 
 from the thatched roof of a house on the side of the 
 mountain above, and somewhat in front of me ; it burst into 
 a flame immediately afterwards, and within ten minutes the 
 whole house was reduced to ashes. It was very pitiful to 
 hear the wailing and screaming of the unfortunate owners, 
 poor folk evidently, judging by the style of house, a lone 
 one, some distance from a village, and to see their futile 
 efforts to extinguish the fire by throwing dust upon it — water 
 they had none. Night was just closing in, so the desolation 
 of the scene was complete. What a night these poor people 
 will spend beside their ruined home ! and with what sad 
 hearts they will begin the struggle for existence to-morrow ! 
 I arrived at Ramgarh Bungalow at nightfall, and found it 
 very cold. A large wood fire was most acceptable. 
 
 December io. Wednesday. Left Ramgarh at 7.45 a.m., 
 and arrived at Bheemtal at 10.45 to breakfast. Rested 
 self and pony for a couple of hours, and started again at 
 1 p.m. Reached Katgodam by 3.3, where I am obliged to 
 remain for my train till to-morrow morning, there being only 
 one passenger train in the day at present. I have thus 
 accomplished all my Himalayan travelling for this tour, and 
 now leave these wonderful mountains with regret. I have 
 had marvellous weather, my waterproof still lies in the 
 straps in which I fastened it before leaving home. 
 
 December ir. Thursday. Left Katgodam by the 10.40 
 train, and arrived at Bareilly at 3 p.m. Here I left the 
 
86 
 
 AN “ INDIAN KESWICK: 
 
 Narrow Gauge railway and got on to the Oudh and 
 Rohilkund Broad Gauge. 
 
 Arrived at Chandausi about 7.3c p.m., and left the train 
 in order to get a glimpse of the Chandausi Christian Mela. 
 I was earnestly urged to do so by Dr. Parker, when passing 
 through Moradabad, and I shall never regret having done so. 
 The Chandausi Mela is now a well-known annual assemblage 
 of native Christians from the surrounding district, chiefly 
 members of the Methodist Episcopal Church. 
 
 On arrival at the station I found a trap awaiting the train 
 to bring any friends who might be coming to the Mela up 
 to the encamping ground. I found there were others bent 
 in the same direction as myself, and so we all got into the 
 trap and were soon at the scene of operations. There is 
 one huge tent which holds about 1500 people comfortably, 
 and all around this, in streets and rows, are pitched the 
 tents, or built the temporary huts, of those who are attending 
 the Mela. It was quite dark when we arrived, and the 
 sight of the camp, with lights in front of each tent or hut, 
 and fires burning here and there, was extremely pretty. 
 Dr. Parker met us immediately on arrival, and as there was 
 a meeting going on at the time conducted us straight in, 
 and introduced me to several of the friends on the platform. 
 There was a native brother in the chair, and he was sup- 
 ported by other native brethren and Europeans, principally 
 missionaries. The large tent was filled to overflowing; the 
 sides were down, and people were standing all round, eager 
 to catch a glimpse and hear a little of what was going on. 
 All inside the tent were professing Christians ; but most of 
 those on the outskirts were heathen. It was a most inspiring 
 sight, this “ Indian Keswick,” as I called it, 2500 native 
 Christians — that I was told was about the number on the 
 ground — gathered together to confer with one another as to 
 the best methods for extending the Redeemer’s kingdom in 
 their midst, and to seek a higher and more consecrated life 
 
COD’S OWN APPOINTED WAY. 
 
 87 
 
 for themselves. Strictly speaking it was not a “ Keswick,” 
 for it was not undenominational, and it was not for teaching 
 of only one kind, or rather for emphasizing one great truth. 
 
 It was more in the nature of an American Camp Meeting. 
 
 I wonder how many of those who will read this account 
 of this great gathering were aware that it was possible to 
 collect together, in one district, and in connection with 
 one mission alone, as many as 2,500 professing Christians. 
 
 I feel sure that if people at home, aye, and in India too, 
 were only better informed of the great facts of our Indian 
 Mission Field, they would do much more for missions than 
 they do at present. There is a magnificent work being 
 done in India amongst the Aborigines and low-caste people; 
 wherever these people are brought into contact with the 
 Gospel there is a ready response ; wherever the seed of 
 the kingdom is sown amongst the Aboriginal tribes there 
 is fruit, immediate and abundant, and of a rare order. To 
 this there is scarcely an exception, whether you take the 
 Chumars of the Panjab or the Pulayas and Pariahs in 
 Travancore, whether you go to the Kols of Chota Nagpore 
 or the Karens of Burma, or whether you go amongst the 
 wild tribes of Santalistan. Thank God missions and 
 missionaries are now recognising this more and more, and 
 I believe that just in proportion as it is recognised and 
 acted upon there will be blessing. I firmly believe that 
 God is raising from amongst these poor despised jangli 
 people, scattered all over India and Burma, a people for\ 
 His name, the future Indian Church, and that through 
 them He will reach the high caste Hindu, and bigoted 
 Mohammedan. It is God’s own appointed way, His own 
 old way, a tried way. “ Not many mighty, not many noble, • 
 are called : but God hath chosen the foolish things of the 
 world to confound the wise ; and God hath chosen the 
 weak things of the world to confound the things which are 
 mighty ; and base things of the world, and things which 
 
ss 
 
 AN AGGRESSIVE ARMY. 
 
 are despised, hath God chosen, yea, and things which are 
 not, to bring to nought things that are : that no flesh should 
 glory in His presence.” 
 
 In this very mission in connection with which this grand 
 Mela is being held, there were 6000 converts last year, and 
 30,000 children attended their Sunday-schools. 
 
 Speaking of these large accessions to the Church, I 
 cannot refrain from quoting here a very powerful article on 
 the subject from the pen of the Rev. J. E. Scott, of the 
 Methodist Episcopal Mission. He has had more than 
 seventeen years’ experience in Mission work, and thus 
 writes in the Indian Witness : 
 
 “Listening to the remarks of those who oppose quick 
 baptisms on general principles, one might be led to conclude 
 that the whole thing — converts, converters, Churches from 
 Peter and Pentecost down — was a dead failure, a rash 
 rushing in of the impulsive, eccentric, and inexperienced 
 missionary novice, who does not know what he is about. 
 But that is not in accordance with the facts. While there 
 may be a few cases where it would have been better not to 
 have done it, in the great majority of cases it has turned 
 out well. What means this great aggressive army of twelve 
 thousand or more in Rohilkund, principally in the Bareilly, 
 Budaon, and Moradabad districts ? Where did these 
 hundreds of preachers, exhorters, teachers, colporteurs, 
 Bible-readers, Zenana workers, come from ? The most of 
 them came from among the poor villagers, who, hearing 
 the gospel, expressed a desire for Christ and conversion, 
 and were accepted on the spot, and baptised at once. Let 
 us read Church History. Not of the conversion of Europe, 
 or of the Christianization of Asia Minor, but the Church 
 History, concrete, progressive, irrepressible, recording itself 
 all about us in the person and work of our strong preachers 
 and teachers — converts but a day or two ago from Hinduism 
 and Mahommedanism, who now in the thick of the fight 
 
BUT THEY ARE LOW CASTE. 
 
 89 
 
 show gleaming battle-axes with blood on them, and ever 
 unfurl to the breezes the banner bearing the inscription, 
 In Hoc Signo Vinces. Time would fail me to tell of Haqq, 
 and Cutting, and Jacob, and H. R. Khan, and Mahbub 
 Khan and Solomon, and Isa Das, and Stevens, and 
 Chimman Lai ; or of the scores of younger men, many of 
 whom but yesterday were riding on conservancy carts, 
 sweeping streets, cutting grass, or following the plough, 
 now with clean clothes without and clean hearts within, 
 going here and there and everywhere supplanting Krishna 
 with Christ, and proclaiming the religion of the Redeemer 
 instead of that of Ram. ‘But they are low caste.’ Yes; 
 but they are on their way to high castehood. Did Christ 
 select His apostles from among the nabobs and millionaires 
 of Judea and Galilee? The masses of the world, of India, 
 are poor, are common people — low caste. We are after them. 
 Out upon the miserable snobbery, the execrable, pharisaical 
 pride that would pass by the million, reachable and accessible, 
 to hold controversy with the bigoted and non-accessible 
 Brahman -Ramanuja, Gaur, or Kulin, or the self-satisfied 
 Moslem, Shia, Suni Wahabi, Moghal, or Pathan. 
 
 “ During the past two or three months I have seen 
 practical illustrations of the growth of men under the 
 influence of the Gospel that ought to convince the most 
 sceptical of the success of our work. Take a few facts. 
 On my last tour on the Ajmere Circuit I met with eight 
 men — Madhu, Samuel, Surta, Lachcha, Changa Lai, Bania, 
 Chanda, and Yusif — w'ho but a few months ago were 
 heathens. Now they are exhorters in the Methodist 
 Episcopal Church, are full of zeal to preach the Gospel, 
 have been the means of saving scores of relations, friends, 
 and acquaintances, and who in a marvellously short time 
 have learned the leading facts of the Bible as taught in 
 Mudge's Catechism and simpler portions of Scripture. The 
 Rupnagar quartet is a marvel. These men, seated on the 
 
9 o 
 
 THEY WORK LIKE HEROES. 
 
 ground, face to face with their rude instruments, can hold 
 a crowd all night listening to their quaint adaptations of 
 Yisu Masih Mera Prana bachaya and other bhajans. 
 These are the men who on four or five rupees a month 
 are to become the pioneers of a new era. What does the 
 clerically-dressed swell catechist on fifty or one hundred 
 rupees per month know or care about the masses surging 
 about — sheep without a shepherd, driven here and there 
 by priests ? Voracious and cruel wolves who would leave 
 them nothing but their bones. It is of these men that 
 the experienced missionary, who dug them out, writes : 
 
 ‘ These exhorters are reliable, good men, our own converts ; 
 will stay with us for life, and work like heroes. They have 
 passed good examinations in the Catechism and Gospel, 
 and will develop into good workers ; in fact, are even now 
 working well, and enduring hardships. Two of them, 
 when I could not get a ghri for my tent, shouldered it, 
 and carried it six miles to the next village on the first of 
 June last. That will give you an idea of the stuff they 
 are made of.’ I have three other new men, living epistles, 
 read and known of all. Lai Masih lives at Karas , a 
 village near Hattras. I found him and his wife at Hattras 
 a couple of years ago, when they were brought to me for 
 baptism. They belonged to the sweeper caste. Immediately 
 after baptism they set to work to learn to read. Lai 
 Masih’s growth was marvellous. He soon was able to 
 teach a school. His wife also was able in a short time to 
 teach the Christian girls in her Mohallah. I gave him an 
 exhorter’s license. He sent his wife to the training-school, 
 and she came back much improved. He now has charge 
 of a work of his own, and teaches a small school. He has 
 been the means of saving scores of souls. His pay is 
 five rupees a month, and he never complains. He has a 
 beautiful voice and great skill in conducting singing. 
 
 “ Masih Dayal is a convert from Muttra City. He has 
 
HOW INDIA IS TO BE SAVED. 
 
 9i 
 
 never given us a moment’s trouble. He first earned his 
 own way as a Chowkidar, reading during spare moments ; 
 then he was promoted to teach a little school, then worked 
 a few months in Agra. He now has charge of the Muttra 
 book-shop, and is active in all kinds of Christian work. 
 Recently he accompanied me to Lucknow, and slept on 
 the verandah with the Punkah walas. On the second day 
 he brought me one of the men ready for baptism ! His 
 pay is five rupees. The third man is Isa Das of Gobar- 
 dhan. Recently there has been an ingathering at various 
 sacred centres about Muttra. On the morning of the 8th 
 of June I started at three o’clock in a tekha gdri for 
 Gobardhan, thirteen miles distant. Soon after starting a 
 fearful storm arose. First dust came pouring in upon my 
 recumbent person until I was almost suffocated. Then down 
 came the rain. The dust was turned into mud, and darkness 
 covered all from the rude gaze of men. But we pushed on. 
 The morning cleared up. We had a splendid meeting in 
 a native hut, and baptized sixteen adults, and among them 
 two Bairagi gurus, one of whom is Isa Pas. He at once 
 took hold. Has taught a school, and has travelled among 
 his friends in the surrounding towns. He has just come 
 in and reported a large number of enquirers at Digg, an 
 important place beyond Gobardhan in Bhartpore territory. 
 We propose to save India through such men as these. I 
 am not crying down education, I am only crying up what 
 the Lord gives us right at hand. Let us go where He leads, 
 and follow hard after every indication of Brovidence. 
 
 “For those who do not think there can be much done 
 in the hot weather in the way of evangelistic work, I would 
 say that we have had the greatest success in the hottest 
 months. Take the following as specimens : 
 
 June 8th, at Gobardhan, 16. 
 
 „ 16th, at Mohaban, 19. 
 
 July 14th, at Daujee, 14. 
 
 July 2lst, at Hathras, 10. 
 „ 28th, at Khalilganj, 19. 
 „ 28th, at Jaleswar, 26. 
 
92 WE BAPTIZE THEM AND HOLD ON TO THEM. 
 
 “ Upon these it might be remarked that three of the 
 above places are shrine centres, where there never were 
 any converts before. Not one of these converts come 
 upon the mission for support. They are all well looked 
 after by experienced men, and schools are started among 
 them. It is a mistake to think that we baptize these poor 
 people and let them go. We baptize them and hold on to 
 them. Our policy is to have good strong men at the 
 centres. I divide my large circuits into sub-circuits, and 
 put my strongest and most experienced men over the sub- 
 circuits, then the cheap men under them. So there is 
 
 J system. ‘What I say unto you, I say unto all, Watch? 
 The local-preacher watches the pastor-teacher. The preacher 
 in charge watches the local-preacher and all below him. 
 The presiding elder watches the preachers in charge, and 
 the bishop watches us all. If there is any work in India 
 more interlocked, more systematic, more carefully planned, 
 and more faithfully prosecuted than this, I have not heard 
 of it. Look at the meetings, and conferences, and conven- 
 tions, held at all times of the year. Quarterly, district, and 
 annual conferences for business. Camp-meetings, district 
 leagues, workers’ conventions, itinerants’ clubs for spiritual 
 and intellectual training, red and blue ribbon, and Katin 
 armies for reform. Whatever others may do, I shall take 
 advantage of all these and push ahead, believing that that 
 is the direction in which lies success.” 
 
 I have, however, made a long digression. After my 
 introduction to the platform, Dr. Parker proposed that, 
 as I could only remain a short while with them, the 
 proceedings for the day should be adjourned, and I should 
 be allowed an opportunity of saying a few words to 
 the meeting. This was cordially agreed to, and I was 
 then introduced to the audience. All the proceedings 
 were in Hindustani. I was glad of the privilege of 
 addressing such a gathering and of telling them something 
 
ROHILKHAND DISTRICT LEAGUE. 
 
 93 
 
 of the work of the Leper Mission. It was children’s day 
 at the Conference, and the following will give some idea of 
 what subjects come up for discussion and of how spiritual 
 a character are all the proceedings. All the native Chris- 
 tian schools in the district were present with their banners 
 waving. 
 
 •programme. 
 
 ROHILKHAND DISTRICT LEAGUE. 
 
 To meet December iith, 1890, at Chandausi. 
 
 AFTERNOON SESSION. 
 
 Subject — “Work for all for Jesus.” 
 
 1. Singing by all . . “ Khidmat men,” 172 (“ In Service ”). 
 
 2. Prayer . . . Yaqub Shah. 
 
 3. Recitation of verses of Scripture on working for Jesus by 
 
 Leagues of Bareilly, Shahjahanpur, Pilibhit, and Muthra 
 zilas. Time, 6 minutes. 
 
 4. Singing . . . East Shahjahanpur League. 
 
 5. Reports of work for Jesus by a person selected by each 
 
 League. 
 
 6. Singing . . . Bijnour League. 
 
 7. Discussion : Has the time come when we should fully 
 
 devote all our money and efforts to training Christians 
 and inquirers, and converting such classes as gladly 
 receive the word ? 
 
 Yes . . . Moradabad ; Bijnour; Bareilly. 
 
 No . . . Budaon ; Shahjahanpur ; Muthra. 
 
 Time, 4 minutes each speaker ; and 12 minutes for volun- 
 tary talk, 2 minutes each. 
 
 8. Singing . . . Bareilly League. 
 
 9. Speech or oration . What can I do for Jesus? Shahja- 
 
 hanpur League. Time, 3 minutes. 
 
 10. Recitations : Mandawar, Kakrala, and Pilibhit Leagues. 
 
 Time, 2 minutes each. 
 
 11. Singing . . . Moradabad Junior League. 
 
 12. Business ... „ „ 
 
 13. Close, Song by all . “Sipahio Masih ke,” 187 (“Soldiers 
 
 of Christ . 
 
94 
 
 THE CAMP BY LAMPLIGHT. 
 
 EVENING SESSION. 
 
 Subject — “W ork for Jesus for all.” 
 
 1. Singing by all . . “YIsu kf bdbat sundo,” iio (“Tell 
 
 about Jesus ”). 
 
 2. Prayer . . . D. P. Kidder. 
 
 3. Recitation of verses of Scripture on subject by Budaon, 
 
 Moradadad, Bijnour zila League. Time, 6 minutes. 
 
 4. Singing . . . Moradabad League. 
 
 5. Essay : In what ways can the young people do more for 
 
 Jesus? Moradabad League. Time, 3 minutes; re- 
 marks, 2 minutes each ; 8 minutes. 
 
 6. What motives should influence us in all this work for Jesus? 
 
 Muthra League. Time as above, 3 minutes ; and talk, 
 8 minutes. 
 
 7. Singing . . . Bareilly League. 
 
 8. Discussion : What are the special preparations required 
 
 for this work? Bareilly, East Shahjahanpur League. 
 Time, 3 minutes each ; general remarks, 2 minutes 
 each ; 8 minutes. 
 
 9. Singing . . . Shahjahanpur, West League. 
 
 10. Essay : To what extent should our Head Masters and 
 
 Teachers engage in voluntary evangelistic work? 
 Budaon League. Time, 3 minutes ; and 8 minutes 
 for talk, as above. 
 
 11. Singing by all . “ Sab Masfh kd,” 177 (“All for Christ ”). 
 
 12. Consecration Meeting, led by President C. L. B. Subject: 
 
 How can we serve the Master more fully in our own 
 personal experience and secret life ? 
 
 13. Closing Song . “ Men zindagi,” 173 (“Take my life”). 
 
 After the proceedings for the day were over I had some 
 supper with Dr. and Mrs. Parker in their tent, and was 
 then shown all over the encampment by lantern. The girls’ 
 schools were encamped inside a large enclosure with their 
 matrons, each band having its own separate set of huts. 
 In the general encampment a few were in tents, but the 
 bulk of the people were in little straw huts, just put 
 
GOOD-BYE TO THE MELA. 
 
 95 
 
 together for the purpose : these huts the native Christians 
 provide for themselves. After visiting the camp I returned 
 to the railway station, to sleep in the waiting-room for the 
 night. I was introduced to many of the brethren to-night, 
 both native and European, whom it was a privilege to 
 meet. 
 
96 
 
 ENCOURAGEMENT IN ROHILKHAND. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 RURKI, SAHARANPORE, AND TARN TARAN. 
 
 December 12. Friday. Left Chandausi by the 7 a.m. 
 train for Rurki, where I arrived a little after mid-day ; the 
 Rev. Mr. Leonard, of the Methodist Episcopal Mission, 
 being a traveller by the same train. He was returning to 
 his own station (Roy Bareilly) from the Chandausi Mela. 
 He gave me some very encouraging news of the progress 
 of Mission work in Oudh and Rohilkund. On arrival at 
 Rurki I was met by the Rev. C. W. de Souza, of the same 
 Mission as Mr. Leonard, who very kindly drove me to his 
 own house, whence, after my having been introduced to 
 Mrs. de Souza, we drove at once to the new Leper Asylum. 
 Mr. de Souza has always taken a very deep interest in the 
 lepers, and has personally worked amongst them for many 
 years. The last time I was in Rurki, in February, 1887, 
 he and I visited the lepers together at their wretched huts 
 by the roadside and preached to them. I have given a 
 picture of the group as we then found them in the account 
 which I wrote of that tour, A Glimpse at the Indian 
 Mission Field, &c. We then planned together to have a 
 small asylum for them in a more retired situation, where 
 they would be more comfortable ; and it is this place 
 which is now in Mr. de Souza’s charge, and to which he 
 took me to-day. There has been considerable difficulty in 
 procuring a site, but at last this one was secured. It has, 
 fortunately, a well upon it. Water is always a consideration 
 in this country, especially in the case of lepers, who would 
 
AN ASYLUM FOR RURKI. 
 
 97 
 
 be turned away from most wells ; now they have this one 
 of their own. Mr. de Souza has himself superintended 
 the building of these houses, and has had them very neatly 
 done : there are eight houses, capable of accommodating 16 
 inmates. The number of inmates at present is 14, of 
 whom 9 are men and 5 are women ; there is one infant. 
 Eight of the above are Christians, of whom 6 are men 
 and 2 are women; 6 have been baptized during the 
 present year. A prayer-room is being built. More houses 
 are needed at once, and we have to-day arranged how they 
 are to be placed to the best advantage, as the site is, 
 unfortunately, very small. It would be a great boon to 
 this little asylum if we could secure one or two of the 
 adjoining fields, especially the one with the large tree on it. 
 The shade of trees is an immense comfort to poor lepers, 
 and one which they appreciate very much. There is 
 certainly a great contrast between this place and that in 
 which I last saw these poor people. The asylum is now 
 almost entirely supported by the Mission to Lepers in India, 
 as the grant received from the Municipality is but very 
 small. The Mission to Lepers in India also pays for a 
 native catechist, who visits and teaches the lepers regularly, 
 under Mr. de Souza’s superintendence. The new accom- 
 modation will probably cost about ^jioo, and when the 
 houses are all full, the probable cost of maintenance will 
 be about ^150 per annum. 
 
 Mr. de Souza, besides his native work, has an interesting 
 work amongst Europeans, and has just had a very neat 
 little English church built near his own house. 
 
 The Rev. Dennis Osborne, of the American Episcopal 
 Methodist Mission, and Presiding Elder of this district, is 
 on a visit with Mr. and Mrs. de Souza just now, an earnest 
 Christian, and a well-known and successful Gospel preacher 
 whom it is a privilege to meet. We all have had a very 
 pleasant evening together, hymn singing and prayer, after 
 
THE HIGHER EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM. 
 
 9 S 
 
 which I left for the railway station, where I am to lie down 
 for a few hours till my train comes in at 3.30 a.m. 
 
 The Reformed Presbyterian Mission has also got work 
 going on here. We cull the following from the Punjab 
 Mission News : 
 
 “ We hear of encouragement and activity in the Reformed 
 Presbyterian Mission which has its head-quarters at Rurki, 
 where, as well as at Muzafiarnaggar, there are organised 
 churches with a membership of about sixty persons. 
 There are two Orphanages at the former place, in which 
 boys and girls are being carefully taught what a Christian 
 should do and be. The Rev. C. G. Scott, m.d., is engaged 
 in the erection of two church buildings this year — one in 
 Muzafiarnaggar, and the other in Rurki. :: 
 
 December 13. Saharanpore. I should have left Rurki 
 this morning at 3.30, but the train was fully two hours late, 
 the consequence of which is I have missed my connection 
 with the Panjab train and am obliged to remain the day in 
 Saharanpore, there being no train now till the night mail, 
 which will necessitate my arriving at Tam Taran on Sunday 
 morning, for which I am very sorry. There is, however, 
 one consolation, viz., that I shall get the day to rest, and 
 shall have another day with my old friends, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Kelso, of the American Presbyterian Mission. Mr. Kelso 
 and I have had much conversation regarding work amongst 
 the low-castes, and the higher educational system of mission 
 work. He and I arrived in India at the same time, and it 
 is very interesting now to compare notes : both of us have 
 been engaged in educational work, and we have both arrived 
 at pretty much the same conclusions. He was a firm 
 believer in the higher educational system — i.e., giving a high 
 education to heathen lads, but has been obliged to modify 
 his views very much — and he says that he finds some of 
 his most bitter opponents are those very boys who have 
 been brought up in the mission schools. My own idea, 
 
EDUCATION FOR THE CHRISTIANS. 
 
 99 
 
 after years of thought on the subject, is, that under existing 
 circumstances it is not a wise policy for missionaries to 
 spend their time in giving a higher education to heathen 
 lads ; we should develop the Christian boys’ boarding 
 schools more than we are doing, do as much for the sons of 
 our native Christians as we are doing for their daughters, in 
 short, give the higher education to our Christian lads, not 
 to the heathen ; spend our strength on educating the 
 church, fitting its members, both men and women, to take 
 the place that God has destined them to hold in India. 
 The time has fully come when our missionaries may throw 
 their whole time and strength into educating and training 
 the native Christians. This is being done in some parts of 
 India, and where it is being done the results are very hope- 
 ful and very evident ; but it must be more generally recog- 
 nised by all our Missionary Societies. As Christians we are 
 pledged to give the best we have in the way of Western 
 advantages, first to the sons and daughters of our native 
 Christians, and not first to the heathen lads who can get 
 their secular education at the Government schools and 
 colleges. I know there is much that may be said on the 
 other side ; but what I plead for is, that our Christian youth 
 be not neglected, while the very flower of our strength is 
 being given to educate heathen lads in secular subjects. 
 Especially is this important in the case of those missions 
 which have got large accessions from amongst the Aboriginal 
 people of India, or from amongst the low castes, as in the 
 Panjab. Thousands of converts are joining the church 
 every year, coming over with their families, whole villages 
 in some instances, and these people must be educated, 
 unless they are to become a dead weight on the church. 
 Was ever such an opportunity for higher education in its 
 highest sense ? And what fruit it will yield ! I have been 
 greatly struck on this tour by the growth of the native 
 church. The Christian is no longer an isolated unit to be 
 
100 THE PERSIAN- WHEEL — AN ILLUSTRATION. 
 
 found here and there at great distances, but almost every- 
 where one goes little communities of them are to be met 
 with. The native Christian community is no longer to be 
 ignored ; they are a people, and on every great social and 
 moral question their voice is to be heard ; they have 
 become a power in the land, and will become increasingly 
 so if we will only do our duty by them. I am struck also 
 by the growth and tone of spiritual life one sees in the 
 native church. At this moment I have one man in my 
 mind — he was once a follower of the False Prophet, and is 
 now a humble follower of the despised Nazarene. He and 
 I were talking, of Keswick perhaps, I am not sure, but at 
 all events we dwelt on the privileges of the Christian, and 
 how necessary it is that Christians should live in close 
 contact with Christ, and draw all our supplies from Him. 
 I had spoken of what the attitude of the believer should 
 be to Christ, when he reminded me of the Persian-wheel 
 which one sees in some parts of India, and asked me if I 
 had ever thought of it as an illustration of the believer’s 
 attitude towards Christ : on these wheels there is an 
 arrangement of earthern vessels fastened to a looped rope, 
 these vessels go down into the well as the rope turns, on 
 their heads, empty, and come up on the other side with 
 heads erect, full, and then empty themselves on to the 
 parched and thirsty fields, and so irrigate the crops. He 
 went on to say : “ The well represents Christ, the earthen 
 vessels represent us, and if we plunge into Christ, with 
 heads downwards (in humility), and empty, we shall come 
 up again with heads erect, and full of the living water, not 
 to keep it selfishly for ourselves, but to empty it upon 
 others ; and if we continuously plunge into Christ, the well 
 of living water, as the earthern vessels continually revolve 
 in and out of the well, there shall be a continual filling and 
 a continual emptying to His glory.” I thought the figure 
 a very beautiful one, and well worthy of being repeated. 
 
TARN TARAN AGAIN. 
 
 ioi 
 
 After a very pleasant day, Mr. Kelso kindly saw me to 
 the train. I have now been two nights without having my 
 clothes off, having spent them both in railway stations, and 
 now 1 am to be a third in the train ; such is travelling life 
 in India ! If my train is only in time, I should be at 
 Amritsar by five in the morning, and intend going out at 
 once to Tam Taran to Mr. Guilford’s Mission House. 
 
 December x 5. Tarn Taran. I am having a very pleasant 
 time here with my dear friend the Rev. E. Guilford, of the 
 Church Missionary Society. My train was late in arriving 
 at Amritsar yesterday morning, and so I was late in arriving 
 here. At two o’clock Mr. Guilford and I went over to the 
 Leper Asylum, and had a service there with the Christian 
 lepers. It was very pleasant to meet with them once again, 
 and to see those whom I had known for so long still hold- 
 ing on their Christian course. Mr. Guilford conducted the 
 service, and the Christians sang a bhajan, which I thought 
 I recognised, so I asked if that was one of Ilahi Bakhsh’s, 
 and was told that it was ; it is very wonderful what a hold 
 these hymns of his have taken on the lepers here and at 
 other asylums in the Panjab. I have already alluded to this 
 in writing of Ambala Asylum. The last time I was here 
 I wrote a full account of this sadly-interesting place, so I 
 shall not here repeat myself, but shall instead quote from 
 a speech of Mr. Guilford’s, which he delivered at Exeter 
 Hall last May, and in which he describes his first visit to 
 this place. Let me first say, however, that the Leper 
 Settlement here is not one of the asylums of the Mission 
 to Lepers in India, nor of any other mission, but is a 
 Government institution supported by the different munici- 
 palities who send in lepers to it. From the first, however, 
 every facility has been given to Mr. Guilford to show 
 Christian kindness to the inmates ; he has been allowed 
 a free hand to carry on mission work, and he is often con- 
 sulted by the authorities on questions having to do with 
 
102 
 
 A LEPER SETTLEMENT. 
 
 the welfare of the institution. The Mission to Lepers has 
 built the little church in which the Christian lepers worship, 
 and also supports a catechist whose duty it is to give regular 
 instruction to the inmates. With this explanation I shall 
 now let Mr. Guilford give us the account of his first visit 
 and subsequent experience. 
 
 “When I first went in 18S2 to start a new mission in 
 connection with the Church Missionary Society to the 
 grand and noble race of the Sikhs in the Manjha of the 
 Panjab, the first object that attracted my attention, and 
 the first sight that called forth feelings of pity and com- 
 passion, was the leper asylum stationed at Tarn Taran, the 
 place which we had selected for our head-quarters, and its 
 234 wretched, miserable inmates. Never shall I forget my 
 first visit to these awful wrecks of humanity. It was made 
 in connection with one of our Amritsar missionaries. When 
 we got within the asylum there came surging around us such 
 a crowd of deformed, mutilated, suffering creatures, that it 
 seemed as though all the dire effects of sin which have ever 
 been wrought upon the human frame had been focussed 
 in one mass before our eyes; and it was impossible, to 
 us who were unaccustomed to such a sight as this which 
 was presented to us, to stay long amongst these people. 
 All we could do then was simply to speak a few words of 
 hope and of comfort to them, and we had then perforce 
 to turn our backs upon this house of living death. But to 
 this day that fearful sight has haunted me, and until death 
 I can never efface from my memory the look of utter 
 wretchedness which seemed impressed upon every face 
 before us. But, fearful and loathsome as these poor people 
 were, they seemed to have a strange fascination for one. 
 There seemed to be in each of those mutilated human 
 frames a wonderful power of attraction — a power which led 
 one again back to the charnel-house in spite of oneself. 
 And truly, my friends, there was a power in each. It was 
 
DENY CHRIST WE CANNOT. 
 
 103 
 
 the power of the human soul — a soul akin to one’s own, 
 a soul precious in the sight of God, and a soul for whom 
 Christ died. 
 
 “ It was not long, therefore, before my visits to them were 
 renewed ; but when I went again, to my great surprise and 
 joy, I found that I was wrong in thinking at first that all 
 these poor creatures were without hope in the world ; for I 
 found among those suffering men a band of six, in whose 
 hearts the star of hope had arisen, and from whose lives 
 the light of life shone forth sufficiently to be wondered at, 
 and to be seen of all in that terribly dark spot. These 
 poor people had, about a year previously to my visit to 
 them, emigrated from Ambala, where they had learned and 
 embraced the truth as it is in Christ Jesus from the 
 missionaries labouring there. . . . Truly pathetic is the 
 story of these poor people when they first came to Tarn 
 Taran. At that time there was in charge of the asylum a 
 native doctor, whose hatred to Christianity was so great 
 that it had really become proverbial. The rage of this 
 man when these poor people presented themselves to him, 
 and asked for admission to the asylum, and said that they 
 were Christians, knew no bounds. He said, ‘Away from 
 here; this is no place for you; and until you utterly 
 renounce your faith in Christ, never let me see your faces 
 again.’ But what answer do you think these poor people 
 made ? They said, ‘ If you refuse to admit us into the 
 asylum unless we deny our Lord and Master, we are 
 content to go and sit in the highway and die.’ And out 
 into the highway these poor people went, and there they 
 sat for eight long days, with no shelter from the burning 
 rays of the sun more than the trees afforded them, and 
 with scarcely any food to eat. This wicked man refused 
 to allow them even to buy food from the shop in the 
 asylum. Oh, my friends, methinks that there are very few, 
 even in this favoured land of ours, where the comforts of 
 
104 
 
 THE GLORIES OF THEIR REDEEMER. 
 
 Christianity, and the blessings of Christianity, are enjoyed 
 .from earliest infancy, whose faith would stand such a trying 
 1 ordeal as this ! But on the eighth day this man became 
 afraid of the consequences of keeping these poor people 
 without shelter any longer, and so he admitted them into 
 the privileges of the asylum. 
 
 “When these people once gained admittance into the 
 asylum they did not allow, thank God, their light to be 
 hidden, but by song and by speech they showed forth the 
 glories of their Redeemer, and day by day they urged their 
 poor fellow-sufferers to come and partake by faith from the 
 hand of God those comforts which they themselves had 
 received from Him. And their efforts were not in vain, for 
 when I began to labour amongst them, I found that this 
 band of six had already been joined by four or five others, 
 who were well instructed in the word of God, and who 
 were anxious to confess Christ publicly in baptism. At 
 that time I applied to your Society* for aid, and I met 
 with a most hearty and generous response, and by the aid 
 granted by your Society I have since that time been enabled 
 to build a church in the asylum, and to hold daily services 
 for these Christian lepers, and have been enabled to employ 
 men to go amongst them and give them daily instruction in 
 the truths of God’s word, as well as to preach to the non- 
 Christian inmates of the asylum. And, thank God, His 
 Word has not been preached in vain there ; for during the 
 time that we have been labouring in the asylum, twenty-two 
 precious souls have been baptized into the faith of Christ, 
 and very warm, bright Christians some of these men are, 
 notwithstanding the intense sufferings which they endure. 
 To me it has been a real privilege to work amongst them. 
 I have from these poor afflicted ones learned many precious 
 lessons— lessons of humility, of patient suffering, of strong 
 
 * Mission to Lepers in India. 
 
AT THE FOOT OF THE CROSS. 
 
 105 
 
 faith amidst trial and temptation. Oh, that I could take you 
 to that asylum, that you might see with your own eyes the 
 consistent walk of some of these men, and hear with your 
 own ears the remarkably deep, spiritual truths to which 
 they sometimes give utterance ! It seems to be one of 
 Christ’s gracious ways of dealing with men, to give great 
 grace and a deep insight into spiritual truths to those who 
 are despised and mean in the sight of men. We may see 
 this in Mary Magdalene of old, and in the lowly fishermen 
 of Galilee ; and we may see it still in the poor leper, who 
 has been brought to the feet of Christ. Amongst the last 
 three of these poor people, whom I had the pleasure of 
 baptizing into Christ’s Church, was a man whom I shall 
 never forget. I have still before my mind’s eye the glad 
 and joyous smile which lit up his face as he turned to me 
 and said, ‘ Oh, sir, for thirty years I was wandering about 
 the country with the burden of sin upon me, and afflicted 
 with this fearful disease of leprosy ; but what my thirty 
 years of wandering from one place of pilgrimage to another' 
 have failed to give me, I have found at the foot of Christ’s 
 cross ! Oh, to think that those blessed hands and feet were 
 pierced for me, and that by His stripes I am healed !’ To 
 seek out men like this, burdened with sin, tortured by pain, 
 and cast out from the society of men, and to bring them 
 into the blessed fellowship of saints, and to alleviate their 
 sad lot, is the work which the Mission to Lepers is doing 
 in India. And can we, my friends, wonder that God 
 has blessed their labours ? Was it not the work which 
 our Saviour Himself came to do? And was it not the 
 work Jesus sent forth His disciples to do after His 
 resurrection ?” 
 
 There are not nearly so many lepers here now as there 
 were on the occasion of my last visit, nearly four years ago. 
 The present numbers are as follows: Total inmates, 183, 
 of whom xi6 are men, 49 are women, xo boys, and 8 girls ; 
 
io6 WHAT CAW WE DO TO SAVE THE CHILDREN ? 
 
 besides these there are 8 little children considered too 
 young to be entered on the roll; so that there are 26 
 children here at present living right in the midst of this 
 charnel-house, one might almost say, and what hope is 
 there for them if left in these surroundings ? Some of them 
 are already lepers, but the most of them are not, and if 
 we can only succeed in separating them from their 
 unfortunate parents and relatives we may yet save them. 
 There is no restriction on marriages here, and there is no 
 attempt at the separation of the sexes, consequently many 
 children are born in the Asylum. Mr. Guilford is very, 
 very anxious to save some of these little ones, and has 
 already commenced operations by asking some of the parents 
 if they will give up their children to him, and has got their 
 consent. We should like to see a large central home 
 built for such children close to the present Mission House, 
 and the Leper Mission has already promised a grant towards 
 it. But I shall again let Mr. Guilford speak for himself 
 in the matter, as no one is more worthy of a hearing. 
 
 A LETTER ABOUT THE CHILDREN OF 
 LEPERS IN INDIA.* 
 
 “ Papers, periodicals, and reviews of all shades of opinion 
 have, during the past two years, brought to the knowledge 
 of their readers the fearful extent to which leprosy has 
 spread in our Indian Empire, and the grave source of 
 danger which it presents to all classes of society. But in 
 all that had has been said and written on the subject, the 
 matter of the children born of leper parents has been 
 almost entirely overlooked. ‘ The Mission to Lepers in 
 India’ is, I believe, the only society that has recognised 
 the necessity of separating children from their afflicted 
 
 From the Church Missionary Gleaner, December, 1890. 
 
NEED OF SEPARA TION. 
 
 107 
 
 parents as one great means of staying the spread of the 
 disease. This society has for some years past directed its 
 attention to the untainted children of lepers, and has made 
 provision for their entire separation from their unhealthy 
 surroundings. So long as the present state of things shall 
 continue, it is obivious that the disease must increase, 
 unless measures are taken to place the untainted children 
 of leper parents out of the reach of probable contagion. 
 Most medical men agree that, under certain conditions, 
 leprosy is a highly contagious disease. Now there is no 
 condition under which leprosy can be propagated to which 
 the children of lepers who are allowed to live on with their 
 parents are not subject. Would it therefore be any matter 
 for surprise if the statistics of the leper asylums should 
 show that, where the separation of the children from their 
 parents has not been effected, the vast majority of those 
 born of the inmates of these places have, ere they have got 
 out of their teens, contracted the loathsome disease of their 
 parents? Speaking of what I have experienced, I can 
 testify that such has been the case at Tarn Taran, where is 
 situated the largest of all the leper asylums in India. * 
 
 “ Of all the persons born at that asylum during the last 
 thirty-years, I know of only two men who up to the present 
 have not become confirmed lepers. But even these, when 
 last I saw them, began to show signs of the disease upon 
 them. How different «is the history of the asylum at Almora, 
 which is largely maintained by the ‘ Mission to Lepers in 
 India ! ’ There, for many years past, this plan of separating 
 the children from their parents has been adopted with the 
 most gratifying results. Of all those who have been thus 
 separated only one child has shown any signs of the 
 disease. Many more are now out in the world, and gaining 
 
 * This was once perhaps the largest asylum, but it is not so now ; 
 there are at least three others larger.— W. C. B. 
 
ioS 
 
 YEARNING OVER THE LITTLE ONES. 
 
 their own livelihood. Surely we have here a most striking 
 proof, that in one direction at least a great deal can be done 
 towards stopping the spread of leprosy. What a wide field 
 for the exercise of Christian love is thrown open to us in 
 this branch of work! The followers of Jesus no longer 
 possess the power of curing ‘diseases and all manner of 
 sicknesses ’ by a touch or a word ; but in these who may 
 soon be lepers, the ‘least’ of Christ’s little ones, there is 
 given to all an opportunity of stretching forth the hand of 
 loving compassion, and of saying, ‘ Be clean.’ 
 
 “ It requires a personal visit to a leper asylum before 
 anyone can have the faintest conception of the horrors 
 of such a place. No pen can describe them. Perhaps the 
 saddest of all sad sights that the eye of man can behold 
 is to see a bright innocent child fondled in the arms of a 
 leper mother, and being fed from hands which are masses 
 of corruption ! And yet thousands of such sights are 
 every day witnessed in India. 
 
 “At the Tarn Taran Asylum, where I have laboured for 
 the past eight years, and where I have had the joy of 
 seeing many souls ‘born from above,’ there are between 
 twenty and thirty children — the offspring of lepers — who 
 are daily exposed to the greatest danger of contracting the 
 disease, amidst which they were born, and by which they 
 are every moment confronted. Let your readers imagine 
 what the atmosphere of a hut ten feet square must be in 
 which there are crowded together a father and mother — 
 lepers— with three or four small children. They will then 
 readily imagine the danger to which these children are 
 daily exposed. Of this sort we have several cases at the 
 Tarn Taran Asylum. 
 
 “ My heart yearns over these little ones, and I have 
 determined, by God’s help, to make an effort to save them. 
 My plan is to build a ‘ Home ’ for them near my own 
 (which is distant about a mile and a quarter from the 
 
WHAT A LITTLE MO HEY CAN DO. 
 
 109 
 
 asylum), and to induce their parents to hand over the 
 care of them to me. This accomplished, we shall endeavour 
 to instruct the little ones in the knowledge of God’s Word, 
 of the ‘ Three R’s,’ and in some of the handicrafts of the 
 country, so as to enable them, when they are old enough, 
 to gain their own livelihood. Many friends in England 
 and Ireland have expressed deep and practical sympathy 
 with th : s plan, and already the support of nineteen children 
 has been promised. 
 
 “ Our hope is that not only the whole of the children 
 now in the asylum at Tarn Taran will be handed over to 
 us, but that in time the Home will become a central 
 institution for the whole of the Panjab, as the asylum is 
 now. 
 
 “The total cost of maintaining these children will be 
 very small, not more than £ 4 per annum for each child 
 being required. The ‘Mission to Lepers in India’ is now 
 making special efforts on behalf of the children of leprous 
 parents, and I would commend it to the prayers and 
 the sympathy of the readers of the Gleaner. Several of 
 the C.M.S. missionaries, myself amongst the number, owe 
 to this Society a deep debt of gratitude for aid in our work 
 amongst the lepers, which it has liberally and regularly 
 given to us ” 
 
 A children’s home such as Mr. Guilford desires, together 
 with the purchase of the site, will probably cost not less 
 than ^300; of this sum, I am thankful to say, one ^50 
 has already been given. 
 
 Last evening I addressed the native Christian congrega- 
 tion at the evening service — that is, the ordinary Christian 
 congregation, not the lepers. It was a great privilege. 
 All the congregation sat on the floor, even the officiating 
 minister. I was the only one who was honoured with a 
 seat other than the floor, and mine was a little wooden 
 stool. 
 
no 
 
 MANY PRIVILEGES. 
 
 After the service Mr. Guilford and I went in and spent 
 the evening with the lady missionaries — Miss Handbury, 
 Miss Grimwood, Miss Abdullah, and Miss Sharif Barkhurdar 
 Khan ; the last named is a daughter of Dr. Barkhurdar 
 Khan, of Chumba. There was also Miss Jonas from 
 Jandiala, and another lady missionary, who were on a visit 
 with the Tarn Taran ladies. We had a most delightful 
 evening, and sang many of the Keswick hymns together. 
 Miss Jonas has kindly invited me to visit her and her 
 colleagues at their village home in Jandiala, which I hope 
 to do to-morrow. 
 
 To-day Mr. Guilford and I paid another visit to the Leper 
 Asylum, and in the evening I again had the privilege of 
 addressing the ordinary native Christian congregation in 
 Hindustani 
 
THE STORY OF GUJRL. 
 
 in 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 TARN TARAN, JANDlALA, LODIANA, ALLAHABAD , 
 AND PURULLA. 
 
 December 16. Tuesday. Tarn Tar an and Jandiala. 
 The Tarn Taran Ladies’ Mission is a branch of what is 
 known as the Panjab Village Mission, and is in connection 
 with the Church of England Zenana Missionary Society, 
 the ladies being, as mentioned in the previous chapter, 
 Miss Hanbury, Miss Grimwood, Miss Goodwin, Miss 
 Abdullah, Mrs. Dina Nath, and Miss Sharif Barkhurdar 
 Khan, the last named being a daughter of Dr. Barkhurdar 
 Khan of Chumba. 
 
 One incident, which has taken place since my visit to 
 Tarn Taran, and which I have culled from India's Women, 
 the bi-monthly organ of the C. E. Z. M. S., will show of 
 what an encouraging character the work is ; it is related by 
 Miss Abdullah : 
 
 “ Gujri, a Mohammedan woman, was admitted to the 
 Tarn-Taran Mission Dispensary last February, suffering 
 terribly from an incurable complaint. The disease had 
 begun several months before, but as no remedy had been 
 tried it had rapidly increased. She had heard of our 
 Dispensary ward, but had feared to enter it. Some people 
 had told her that it was our custom to thoroughly investigate 
 the condition of a new patient ; thus, if it was one likely to 
 yield to treatment, no trouble nor expense was spared in 
 attempting to cure it ; but if the case seemed incurable, 
 cautiously and insidiously poison would be administered to 
 
1 12 
 
 COMING TO BE KILLED! 
 
 put an end to a painful life. As there was apparently no 
 hope of her recovery, she thought she would meet the 
 supposed fate of our incurables. 
 
 “ For some time she chose to bear anything rather than 
 come to us to be killed ; but at last the poor body could 
 endure no more, and she applied for admittance at the 
 Dispensary, thinking it would be better to die than to drag 
 on a miserable existence. She arrived in a doli, so feeble 
 and ill that she could scarcely sit up, with a pale, emaciated 
 face, and large pathetic eyes, which for a day or two 
 watched us suspiciously. 
 
 “ After undergoing an operation she was greatly relieved ; 
 once more she could walk, and take an interest in life, and 
 enjoy her meals. Then her gratitude knew no bounds, and 
 full and firm confidence in us was established. It was 
 difficult to make her believe that the relief was only 
 temporary. The daily evening prayers in the ward became 
 a source of great delight to her, and no other patients 
 listened so attentively and eagerly to the story of the 
 Crucifixion. She was so much impressed by it that she 
 came to the foot of the Cross with all her load of sin and 
 guilt, and laid it there, looking up to Him who had died to 
 give her salvation. When her relations heard of her desire 
 for baptism, they came and carried her away. She cried 
 very much, but promised to come back after settling her 
 home affairs. 
 
 “For two months no more was heard of poor Gujri. 
 We had come to the conclusion that she must have died, 
 when to our great surprise she sent her daughter and sister 
 to us, begging me to fetch her back to the hospital — she 
 wanted to die amongst us. She seemed most delighted to 
 see us all once more ; but her short race was almost finished. 
 She said to me, ‘ I was almost afraid you would think I had 
 broken my promise, but I was too ill to walk here, and no 
 one could bring me. I have told all my friends that I am 
 
DO NOT LEAVE ME. 1 LOVE YOU! 
 
 5) 
 
 113 
 
 going to be a Christian, and even my son-in-law, who was very 
 bigoted, is reconciled now. I love the Lord Jesus Christ.’ 
 
 “ The next day, at her urgent request, she was baptized 
 on her bed in the hospital verandah by Mr. Guilford. All 
 through the service she remained very calm, with clasped 
 hands fervently murmuring the ‘ Amens.’ She lived 
 through that night. The next morning she was in great 
 pain, but as long as consciousness lasted she kept on 
 praying, ‘ I have been a great sinner. Accept me, Lord 
 Jesus. I come to Thee.’ 
 
 “Though once afraid of being killed by us, she could 
 not now bear me to leave her side. Again and again she 
 said, ‘ Do not leave me. I love you, and like to feel you 
 are near me.’ No fear of death troubled her. Jesus Christ 
 Himself was her Guide through the Valley of the Shadow 
 of Death, and firm faith and trust lighted her footsteps. 
 Twenty-four hours after her baptism she passed away into 
 the eternal rest of Him on whom she had anchored her 
 hope. Hers is the first grave in the Christian cemetery at 
 Tarn-Taran, and she is buried in the sure and certain hope 
 of a glorious resurrection.” 
 
 I have been acting as umpire in a cricket match this 
 forenoon. An eleven from Amritsar is over here playing 
 against the Tarn Taran boys, and Mr. Guilford is kindly 
 helping the latter. The native lads in the Panjab are 
 taking very kindly to cricket, and there are some very fine 
 players amongst them. It is a very healthy sign to see them 
 adopting this manly English game, and it is one of those 
 things in which a young missionary may occasionally join 
 with considerable advantage to his work ; it serves to draw 
 him and the young men of the place together. Mr. 
 Guilford seems to be a great favourite with the young men 
 here, and I observed the same feeling between the Rev. 
 Golak Nath, jun., and his boys at Ambala, where I also 
 umpired for a short while one day. 
 
 I 
 
1 14 
 
 LADIES' VILLAGE WORK. 
 
 I lunched to-day at the Ladies’ Mission-house, after 
 which Mr. Guilford and I had a parting word of prayer 
 together, and I left in Miss Hanbury’s trap, in a deluge of 
 rain (the first I have had since leaving home), for Jandiala, 
 another branch station of the Pan jab Village Mission. I 
 started at 3.10 p.m., and arrived at 5.30, wet through. Not 
 only was I personally wet through, but all my things were 
 wet also; so I was forced to remain at the mission-house for 
 the night, though I had made all my arrangements to go 
 on by the night train to Lodiana. I found myself in 
 exceedingly comfortable quarters, and the ladies took such 
 kind care of me that I could afford to listen with compla- 
 cency to the torrents of rain, except for the feeling that my 
 good friends the Wyckoffs were up and awaiting me at 
 Lodiana. The ladies working here are Miss Parslee, Miss 
 Hobbs, and Miss Jonas. 
 
 As soon as I had changed from wet into dry clothes, and 
 had taken a cup of tea, I found an audience assembled in 
 the drawing-room to hear an address from me, mostly 
 composed of the native Christian helpers, though there 
 were a few heathen also. It was a good opportunity, and 
 the Lord gave me a message I trust. I afterwards spent 
 a very pleasant evening with the ladies. 
 
 I am greatly impressed by this village work carried on 
 by these ladies : it was originated by Miss Clay. When 
 she first broached the idea to old missionaries, some of 
 them shook their heads, and I believe declined to be 
 responsible for what might take place were ladies thus 
 to go alone and live amongst the people ; but Miss Clay 
 simply took the responsibility, and going and living herself 
 amongst the villagers, proved that it could be done. All 
 honour to her ! How true it is that in all beginnings of 
 things someone must step out and be willing to stand alone, 
 someone must be brave enough to risk failure. The mission 
 has now got five stations and fifteen lady workers. The 
 
CHHOTA LAL. 
 
 i'S 
 
 ladies here tell me that the villagers treat them very kindly, 
 and they are allowed to visit in all the villages around. 
 The plan is to take one large village or small town as a 
 centre of operations, build a house there for the ladies, and 
 from it work all the villages. Jandiala is a good-sized town, 
 eleven miles from Amritsar, and is thickly surrounded by 
 villages. These ladies, with their native Christian helpers, 
 work all these themselves. 
 
 December 17. Wednesday. Left Jandiala at 8 o’clock, and 
 drove into Amritsar, where I arrived in time to catch 
 a train for Lodiana. The ladies kindly lent me their horse 
 and trap, and I could not but be amused at the way 
 in which the horse (Chhota Lai) wished to stop and turn 
 off from the main road at every village road that we came 
 to. I guessed myself what the meaning of it was, but 
 asked the man who was with me, and he said that the 
 horse had got so used to visiting the villages with the 
 ladies that he knew his way to them all, and so naturally 
 wished to turn to them. I have heard of a country gentle- 
 man in the home-land gathering the habits of his groom by 
 the places at which he found his horse stopping of his own 
 accord; so I thought the difficulty I experienced in getting 
 this horse past each village that we came to was a silent but 
 very powerful proof of the thoroughness of the work of 
 these ladies. 
 
 I arrived at Lodiana at 2 p.m., and drove straight out to 
 the American Mission premises, where the American Pres- 
 byterians are holding their annual Missionary Conference 
 just now. How familiar it all seems to me, and how my 
 thoughts go back to a short but very happy time of my life 
 spent in working in connection with this mission, and at this 
 very station. I am the guest here of my friends Mr. and 
 Mrs. Wyckoff, from Ambala, who are staying here for the 
 Conference, and have received a very hearty welcome from 
 them, as well as from many other old and valued friends 
 
ii6 
 
 COXFEREXCE WITH OLD FR1EXDS. 
 
 whom I knew here eighteen years ago. Thank God, so 
 many of my old friends are still spared to carry on their 
 work for Christ in this land. In the evening, at five o’clock, 
 I heard a very good address to the Conference from one 
 of the native brethren ; it was delivered in Hindustani. 
 
 December iS. Thursday. Lodiana. Went to the opening 
 meeting of Conference this morning ; Dr. Ewing, of Lahore, 
 was in the chair. The brethren kindly made me a con- 
 sultative member ; and on the question of arrangements 
 for the Sabathu Leper Asylum coming up, I had the 
 opportunity of addressing the Conference in the interest of 
 the lepers there. It was unanimously resolved to appoint 
 a sub-committee of three to consult with me as to the 
 future plans. 
 
 I lunched to-day with the ladies of the Female Education 
 in the East Society, of whom there is a good contingent 
 here; amongst others are Miss Greenfield and her sister, 
 Miss Alice Andrews, Miss Gibson, and the Misses Pogson. 
 After luncheon Miss Andrews introduced me to Aziz Begum, 
 one of her most valuable workers. The last time I saw 
 her, in the year 1875, she was one of a number of heathen 
 and Mahommedan girls whom I had the privilege of 
 addressing, at the request of Miss Andrews ; the Lord 
 graciously gave me a message to her soul, and now after 
 the lapse of so many years it was a great delight to meet 
 with her again and to find her an earnest worker for Christ. 
 Amongst other old friends whom I have met here is Mrs. 
 Dr. Forman, formerly Miss Emily Falconer of the I.F.N.S. 
 Society. Her husband is a medical missionary of the A. P. 
 Mission. 
 
 In the afternoon Miss Greenfield and Miss Pogson 
 drove me out to visit the leper village. It is situated over 
 the railway line on the Ambala road, close to the encamping 
 ground, where all the British troops encamp when on the 
 march through Lodiana. We found a few from a community 
 
Aziz Begum and her Girls’ School, Lodiana, Panjab : Aziz being the central of the three figures in the background. 
 
 Page 116. 
 
A LEPER VILLAGE. 
 
 1 17 
 
 of forty lepers, men, women, and children, who make this 
 little place their “ home.” They told us that “ they had 
 been given these houses by the Sarkar (Government), and 
 that they were allowed to make their living by begging 
 in the villages round, but get no help.” There were some 
 frightful cases. We gave them five rupees, for which they 
 were deeply grateful, and the ladies promised to come and 
 see them again. The man who took the money from me 
 had both his stumps tied up in cloth. The village had a 
 certain air of comfort about it; there were one or two 
 ponies, some cattle, and three or four goats. The ponies 
 they use for travelling about on their begging excursions ; 
 but the lepers assured me that they would most willingly 
 give up their wandering, begging life, if only Government 
 would do something for them. Miss Greenfield then kindly 
 took me into the city to see her Zenana Hospital ; it is the 
 old city church, where I have many times preached the 
 Gospel, and has been altered so as to suit the purposes of a 
 pUrdah hospital (a curtained or screened hospital for 
 women). Miss Greenfield’s sister now lives permanently at 
 this hospital, so is always in attendance. What a tremendous 
 power for good such an agency must be can easily be 
 understood. Let us think for a moment of the sympathy 
 and careful treatment women will receive at such an insti- 
 tution, and compare that with what they experience in their 
 own heathen and Mahommedan homes. Here they receive 
 not only the tender touch, but hear the loving voice, and 
 the wonderful message of a Saviour’s love ; and then it will 
 be easy to understand how their hearts should be softened, 
 how all suspicion will be removed, and how they will be 
 constrained to yield themselves to the Saviour. It will be 
 easy to conceive of the women who have received kindness 
 in this hospital being the warmest friends of the lady 
 missionaries when they visit them afterwards in their village 
 homes. 
 
nS 
 
 THE LAND OF THE FIVE WATERS. 
 
 I dined with the Rev. Edward and Mrs. Newton, in the 
 house which my dear wife and I occupied when living in 
 Lodiana, and met the Rev. R. and Mrs. Morrison, mission- 
 aries from Rawal Pindee, and Dr. Jessie Carlton, from 
 Ambala; it was a very pleasant evening. 
 
 Left Lodiana by the 11.35 tra i n f° r Allahabad, Mr. and 
 Miss Wyckoff again kindly seeing me off; and so I bade 
 good-bye to the Punjab once more — the land of the five 
 waters ; the land of so much that was chivalric in the history 
 of India, and yet where abominations and cruelties untold 
 have taken place; the land of Lawrence, Herbert Edwardes, 
 Robert Montgomery, Donald MacLeod, and many other 
 noble souls; the land that has been once said to have saved 
 India. May it yet again, through its brave sons, as good 
 soldiers of Jesus Christ, help on the salvation of this great 
 Empire ! 
 
 December 19. Friday. In the train all last night and 
 to-day, and am still being whirled along. At the Toondla 
 refreshment-room, when I was having some tiffen to-day, I 
 was agreeably surprised to have my good friend, Mr. T. A. 
 Denny, of London, suddenly walk in upon me ; he had 
 travelled by a different line, and his train had arrived a few 
 minutes after mine. Before either of us left home he and 
 I had expressed a wish to meet, and were anxious to arrange 
 it if possible ; but our routes seemed to differ so much we 
 had given up trying to arrange anything, and yet in this 
 extraordinary way, without any pre-arrangement, we had 
 run across each other. The world is not so large after all ! 
 We were a few hours in the same train, and then he left at 
 Cawnpore. 
 
 December 20. Saturday. Arrived at Allahabad at 5.35 
 this mo- ing (thirty-two hours continuous travelling from 
 Lodiana), and after a little delay drove out to the lovely 
 mission house of the American Presbyterian Mission on 
 the Jumna, where I received a hearty welcome from Dr. 
 
YES, SAHIB-, PERFECT PEACE. 
 
 119 
 
 and Mrs. Lucas, old friends. Dr. Lucas kindly looks after 
 the Leper Asylum here; it is on the Nynee road, over the 
 great Jumna bridge, and is an institution mostly supported 
 by the Allahabad District Charitable Association, but aided 
 by the Mission to Lepers in India. Immediately after 
 breakfast Dr. Lucas and I paid a visit to the Leper Asylum, 
 where I was greatly rejoiced to find that my old friend the 
 Kaith, of whom I wrote in my Glimpse, was baptized by 
 Dr. Lucas a few weeks ago. I find I then wrote of him 
 (A Glimpse at the Indian Mission Field, 6-v., pp. 46, 47) : 
 “A very interesting case here is a Kaith (good caste) from 
 Benares. He reads the Ramayan (one of the two great 
 epic poems of India; its subject-matter is the history of 
 Ram), and is now reading Christian books. He is a pious, 
 enquiring man, and likely to become a Christian; and 
 should he do so, he will be but one of many who have had 
 to thank God that they became lepers, as it was that which 
 cut them off from their own co-religionists, and brought 
 them in contact with the servants of Jesus, and so with 
 Jesus Himself.” So my expectations have been fully 
 realised. He was bright and happy to-day; and when I 
 asked him if he had peace, he said to me, “ Yes, sahib ; 
 perfec f peace.” I said, “ Are you quite sure ? ” and he 
 replied, “Yes; quite sure.” Dr. Lucas remarked, “His 
 face would tell you that.” 
 
 There are twenty-six rooms in this asylum, about 12 by 
 1 2 ; two sets of six, back to back, and two separate rooms. 
 The inmates at present are thirty-nine ; viz., twenty-four 
 men, eight women, and seven children. There are seven 
 Christians, two of whom have been baptized this year. 
 All the inmates are fairly provided for, and seemed as 
 happy and contented as one could expect. Dr. Lucas is 
 exceedingly kind to them, and takes a deep interest in their 
 welfare, both spiritual and temporal; and the lepers are 
 naturally fond of him in return. 
 
120 “ GENERALLY , , PEOPLE ARE AFRAID OF US. 
 
 On our return from the Leper Asylum I had the pleasure 
 of calling on Mrs Newton, widow of the late Dr. John 
 Newton of Sabathu. She has returned to India as a 
 missionary, and is now in charge of the Girls’ school of the 
 American Presbyterian Mission here, and has two ladies 
 assisting her. I afterwards called on Mr. and Mrs. Hacket, 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Johnstone of the C. M. S., all of whom I 
 was glad to find at home; also on Mr. and Mrs. Ferrier 
 (Mr. Ferrier is chaplain of the Church of Scotland in 
 Allahabad), but failed to find them at home. 
 
 December 21. Sunday. Allahabad. The shortest day, at 
 home probably dark, wet, and cold ; here the most perfect 
 day, warm, home-summer weather. It is much warmer than 
 the Panjab, and last night I was obliged to sleep under 
 a musquito curtain. 
 
 I went to the Leper Asylum this morning before breakfast, 
 and had a very interesting service with the lepers. When I 
 was about to commence the poor things sat down at a great 
 distance from me. I asked, “ What are you doing over 
 there?” They looked perplexed, and then one of them 
 said, “ Generally, Sahib, people do not like us to come near 
 them, they are afraid of us.” “Well,” I said, “I am not 
 afraid, so come close round.” Poor creatures, they seemed 
 so pleased. They are to have a dinner in honour of my 
 visit on Christmas-day, given by a native Christian Pleader 
 who lives here; it is by their own request to consist of 
 mithai and dahi (sweetmeats and thick curds). This Pleader 
 was present at the service, and spoke a few kind words after 
 I had finished. The lepers here are all well looked after, 
 and have no complaint of any kind to make. We spoke 
 to them about their children, and one man said he would 
 be willing to let his go to a Home, but the others said no. 
 
 A new barrack is very much needed here, about ten 
 more rooms, but the Charitable Association has not got the 
 money to put it up. Dr. Lucas intends having an estimate 
 
UN FAIT ACCOMPLI. 
 
 121 
 
 and plan made out, approved of by the Charitable Asso- 
 ciation, and will then send it home with a request to the 
 Mission to Lepers for a grant to put up the building.* 
 
 I preached to-day in Hindustani to the congregation in 
 the Jumna church, and afterwards drove with Mrs. Newton 
 to the Scotch church, where Mr. Ferrier preached, and after 
 the service Dr. and Mrs. Lucas and I had the pleasure of 
 dining with Mr. and Mrs. Ferrier. 
 
 December 22. Monday. Left Allahabad by the 10.35 
 train and travelled all day, dining at Mokameh, where there 
 is a splendid refreshment-room ; about ninety people sat 
 down to dinner. 
 
 December 23. Tuesday. Purulia. I reached Asansol 
 about 1.30 this morning, and as I could find no place to 
 lie down at the station I spent the time from then till 5.30 
 working off a lot of my correspondence. At 6 a.m. left by 
 train for Purulia, where I arrived at 9 a.m. I was met at 
 the station by Mr. Uffmann, Mr. Bruske, and Mr. Uffmann’s 
 little son Henry. Mr. and Mrs. Bruske are staying here 
 just now for change of air. Purulia is a station of Gossner’s 
 Evangelical Mission, Mr. and Mrs. Uffmann and Mr. 
 Kufernagel being the missionaries here at present. On 
 arrival at the mission-house I had, it is needless to say, a 
 very cordial welcome from Mrs. Uffmann. 
 
 After a cup of tea Mr. Uffmann and I went over to the 
 Leper Asylum, which has been built since my last visit, just 
 four years ago. During that visit (December, 1886) Mr. 
 Uffmann and I talked longingly about a possible asylum 
 and looked at a possible site ; the possible has not only 
 become probable, but is now un fait accompli. Prayer has 
 been answered, God has given us the desire of our hearts, 
 to His name be the praise. 
 
 * This request has since come home with a deeply-touching appeal 
 from Dr. Lucas. The barrack will cost about ^100, and there will be 
 an increased annual expenditure of about ^30. 
 
122 
 
 A LOVING RECEPTION. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 PURUIIA. 
 
 If I had been the Viceroy I could not have had a better 
 reception than the lepers gave me at the asylum. I said so 
 to Mr. Uffmann, and he replied, “Certainly the Viceroy 
 would not have had as loving a reception.” The path to 
 the asylum was lined at both sides with flags of different 
 colours, and there were three arches of welcome; one as 
 you entered the path, one over the middle, and the third at 
 the entrance to the asylum ; on all kind words were written, 
 “Welcome W. C. Bailey. God bless you,” &c. The 
 spoken welcome was no less hearty; bright smiles and 
 loving words greeted me on all sides. I first went down 
 the men’s lines, and gave and received “Isa Sahais” (“Isa 
 Sahai ” is the Christian greeting in this neighbourhood ; it 
 means “Jesus be your helper” or “protector”). The 
 same was repeated in the women's quarters, which are 
 separated from the men’s by a high wall. In the little 
 church there was a group of singers and minstrels — all 
 lepers— playing and singing hymns. They had a drum, and 
 two of their own native instruments. This was the first time 
 I had seen a musical band of lepers. A band composed 
 of such players might at first sight seem incongruous, music 
 being associated in the mind with all that is bright and 
 joyous; but let us once realise how bright and joyous the 
 lives of many of these Christian lepers are in spite of 
 their sufferings, and all incongruity disappears. At one end 
 of the church was a table, over which an arch vas erected, 
 
Leper Asylum, Purulia, Cliota Nagpore.— 
 

 ■ v 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Children's Homos fur t.bo Untainted Cliildron of Lepers, Pnrnlla, Cliota Nftgporo.— Pan* lffl 
 
PRECIOUS RESULTS. 
 
 123 
 
 and spread upon it were all manner of devices cut out in 
 coloured paper, the walls being decorated with the same. 
 
 We next visited the Boys’ and Girls’ Homes, which stand 
 on some rising ground, along with the doctor’s, caretaker’s, 
 and the teachers’ houses, at some distance from the asylum. 
 There are ten girls and eleven boys in the Homes, as well 
 as two leprous boys living with the adult lepers. In the 
 asylum there are five houses for men, constructed to receive 
 twelve patients each, and three similar houses for women. 
 The women’s houses are overcrowded, and so another must 
 be built at once. There are altogether 116 inmates in all 
 the institutions, of whom 53 are men, 40 women, and 23 
 boys and girls; 92 are decided out-and-out lepers. To- 
 morrow nineteen will be baptized — twelve men, four women, 
 and three children — and this will leave only five of the 
 whole 1 16 nominal heathen; I say nominal, for even these 
 five are applicants for baptism, but are not yet sufficiently 
 instructed.* 
 
 The sites for the various houses have been well chosen ; 
 a well has been made at the men’s quarters, but another is 
 required for the Boys’ and Girls’ Homes. There is one 
 large good tank for the asylum, but there must be one for 
 the Children’s Homes : it has been partly dug. There must 
 be bathing arrangements for men and women, and channels 
 must be made to convey the water to them from both wells. 
 There is some land round the buildings belonging to the 
 asylum, off which a good crop of rice was taken last season. 
 Mr. Uffmann thinks it would be well to rent a little more 
 land, so as to give employment to the boys, and teach them 
 farming. 
 
 There is a very strong feeling against lepers in this part 
 of the country, and leprosy is much feared; so far does 
 this feeling go, that in the beginning Mr. Uffmann had 
 
 * The number has since risen to over 130. 
 
124 
 
 DA Y A I\IO NY. 
 
 considerable difficulty in getting workmen to put up the 
 buildings, and even now cannot get them except by paying 
 extra wages. 
 
 Mr. Uffmann pointed me out one woman, the brightest 
 and happiest-looking of all, who was smiling all over with 
 sheer happiness and joy. Her story is as follows : She lived 
 in a village about nine miles from Purulia, and when her 
 husband and friends saw that she had become a leper they 
 sent her away to lie on her face before an idol, until she 
 should be healed. It is a custom of the Brahmans- about 
 here to send childless women, and those suffering from any 
 special affliction, to lie on their faces before the idol until 
 they receive an answer of some kind; and this answer, as 
 interpreted by the Brahmans, very often is to go off to 
 another shrine and appease some other god, or to go to 
 some sacred stream to bathe there. A Raja, not far from 
 here, has two wives but no child, and so some time ago 
 these poor wives were sent to lie before the idol in this 
 way. This leper woman, on being sent from her home, 
 went off, and for about three weeks lay on her face before 
 the idol, sleeping only as little as possible, and taking only 
 a little dry grain in the evenings, just sufficient to sustain 
 life. At the end of that time she returned, and the un- 
 natural husband and friends (?) said to her, “ Well, the god 
 has not healed you ; you had better be off to Purulia ! ” 
 Thus driven out, she left her home with a breaking heart. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Uffmann, taking an evening stroll, met her 
 outside their compound, and were horrified at the awful 
 appearance she presented; she was the picture of con- 
 suming despair. She implored admittance, and was taken 
 at once into the asylum. She improved rapidly under kind 
 treatment. Eagerly she drank in the gospel message, and 
 in about two months God gave her a new heart; she became 
 a new creature in Christ Jesus, and now she is the brightest 
 woman in the whole asylum. On Sundays she sits with 
 
WHAT HATH GOD WROUGHT. 
 
 125 
 
 bowed head, and receives with gladness the blessed Word. 
 She is a good-looking young woman, the disease having as 
 yet spared her face. Her name is Dayamony, which means 
 a pearl of grace or mercy ; and she is indeed that, a pearl 
 destined, we believe, to shine for ever in the dear Master’s 
 crown. Surely she may sing, “ Oh, to grace how great a 
 debtor!” 
 
 I went a second time to the asylum in the evening, and 
 was met by the minstrels and singers, and accompanied all 
 along the walk with music and hymns ; it reminded me of 
 a marriage procession. 
 
 When we returned from the asylum to-day I said to Mr. 
 Uffmann, “What hath God wrought! and we have not 
 thanked Him for it yet.” Our hearts were very full, and 
 we knelt down together and poured them out in deep 
 gratitude to God. 
 
 December 24. Purulia. Went down in the morning to the 
 asylum and had a pleasant time there, arranging for special 
 lepers to be supported by friends at home. We have allotted 
 
 to Miss F a man named Nicodeme, to replace dear 
 
 Christaram (rest in Christ) ; he is a man like-minded with 
 him, a pillar of the leper church here. The kind supporters 
 of these special lepers should pray that their proteges may 
 be much used of God amongst their fellow-sufferers. 
 
 In the afternoon went again to the asylum to take part 
 in the preparatory service for to-morrow ; it was a deeply 
 interesting one. The men were on one side and the women 
 on the other, and in front, but at some little distance, the 
 boys and girls from the Homes. All looked so bright and 
 happy, you might almost forget that you were amongst lepers. 
 Mr. Uffmann conducted the service, which was very simple. 
 There was a running fire of question and answer kept up 
 all through the address. Mr. Uffmann would state a fact, 
 and then turning to one of the lepers say, “ Is not that so, 
 brother?” or, “What do you think of that?” mentioning 
 
126 
 
 A TOUCHING MESSAGE. 
 
 someone’s name. This plan suits very well, it helps to 
 keep up the interest and instructs at the same time. 
 
 At the end of the service one of the leper men stood 
 up and made quite a little speech. Addressing himself to 
 me, he said that when they had been cast out of their 
 homes, and were dying under the trees, Christ had come to 
 their rescue, and had built this asylum for them. He 
 reminded me of the parable of the wedding feast, and 
 said that when the well-to-do people would not come 
 Christ had sent His servants out to bring them, the poor 
 outcast lepers, in. They then all rose to their feet — that 
 is, those of them who could stand — and sent their best 
 salams, with many. “Isa Sahais,” to the kind friends who 
 provide for them. It was really most touching to see 
 them ; Dayamony's face was a sight to look at 
 
 There was a preparatory service afterwards for the 
 ordinary native Christians in the large church near the 
 mission-house. All the Christians marched in companies 
 to the church, earning lighted torches and singing hymns ; 
 it was a most stirring sight. The church was full from end 
 to end, and must have had three hundred people in it. 
 After the service sweetmeats were distributed amongst the 
 boys and girls. We had a regular German Christmas-eve, 
 which I greatly enjoyed. 
 
 Christm as-day. 1890. This morning at 8 o’clock there 
 was a senice in the Leper Asylum, and a brighter, happier- 
 looking audience I do not think I have ever seen. At the 
 close of the service nineteen came forward for baptism, 
 leaving only five out of the whole one hundred and sixteen 
 inmates nominal heathen, and these five are really not 
 heathen. How I wish that some of our unbelieving 
 scientists could have been there to see those up-turned 
 faces, those happy, reverent lepers ! I think they would 
 bow their heads for very shame, and be constrained to 
 acknowledge that there is a truth and a mystery of which 
 
COMMUNION SERVICE WITH THE LEPERS. 127 
 
 they are ignorant, in the words, “ The secret of the Lord is 
 with them that fear Him; and He will shew them His 
 covenant.” Dayamony’s face literally shone. 
 
 To-day as I passed the Christian boys’ school I saw that 
 a motto had been put up over the entrance, and went over 
 to see what it was. This is what I read, “ Hurrah, hurrah ! 
 Joy, joy ! Jesus is born, devil is killed. Hurrah, hurrah ! 
 Joy, joy !” It was altogether their own idea, and certainly 
 had the merit of originality if nothing else. 
 
 In the evening we all assembled at the Leper Asylum for 
 the communion service. First there was reading, singing, 
 prayer, and a short address by Mr. Uffmann ; then I spoke 
 a few words in English, which Mr. Uffmann interpreted 
 sentence by sentence ; after which there was a very short 
 solemn service, receiving into full communion n men 
 and two women, at the close of which all left who were 
 not communicants. 66 remained — not a bad proportion 
 out of 93 adults. These 66 came up six at a time, and 
 knelt or bowed down in a reverent posture while the 
 bread and wine were given to them, a few words being 
 spoken to each group as well as the words, “Take eat,” 
 &c., and “Take and drink this,” &c. ; then they were 
 blessed in the name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, 
 and told to go away with joy, and so returned to their 
 places. As each group was receiving the elements the 
 others in the back would sing softly a verse or two of a 
 hymn, sometimes the men leading and the women taking 
 up the next verse, sometimes the women first and then the 
 men, and sometimes both together. The bread was just 
 dropped into their hand, but the wine was put into their 
 mouths with a spoon. It was a solemn and touching sight, 
 and no person could look on unmoved. 
 
 December 26. Friday. Piirulia. The lepers are having 
 a great feast this evening ; three goats have been killed ; 
 the boys and girls of the Homes are to have a share also. 
 
I2S 
 
 VALUABLE TESTIMONIES. 
 
 This afternoon the asylum has had a visit from Dr. and 
 Mrs. Hilson. Dr. Hilson is a Surgeon-General, and Inspector- 
 General of Civil Hospitals, Bengal, and being on his rounds 
 of inspection he was anxious to see our asylum. Mr. and 
 Mrs. Uffmann and I had the pleasure of showing them 
 round. They seemed much pleased with what they saw, 
 and Dr. Hilson wrote as follows in the Visitor’s Book : 
 
 “ I paid a visit to-day to the Leper Asylum, which is 
 maintained in this place by the * Lutheran Mission, and is 
 under the care of the Rev. H. Uffmann. There are 116 
 inmates, of whom in are native Christians, and the 
 remainder Hindus, all more or less affected by the disease. 
 They were accommodated in eight houses on the outskirts 
 of the station, and were separated from the rest of the 
 community. All seemed to be well fed, clothed, and cared 
 for ; and I was much pleased with the arrangements for the 
 segregation of the sexes, which is better carried out here 
 than in any other asylum I have seen in India. The 
 children of the lepers also, who have not shown any signs 
 of the disease, are kept apart in separate buildings ; and 
 while allowed to see their parents occasionally, do not have 
 any close or intimate connection with them. The institu- 
 tion is the only important one of its kind in Bengal, with 
 the exception of that in Calcutta; and Mr. Uffmann has 
 shown how much can be done for lepers by means of 
 kindness and tact, without resorting to any harsh measure, 
 calculated to deprive them of all sense of freedom and 
 enjoyment. Altogether the arrangements do much credit 
 to Mr. and Mrs. Uffmann, whose efforts to alleviate the 
 misery of an unfortunate class of people deserve every 
 encouragement and support. I wish them all success in 
 the noble work they have undertaken. 
 
 “(Signed) A. Hilson, 
 
 ‘ ‘ Inspector • General of Civil Hospitals, Bengal. 
 
 “Pukulia, December 26, 1890.” 
 
 * On behalf of the Mission to Lepers in India. 
 
VALUABLE TESTIMONIES. 
 
 129 
 
 Shortly after my visit to Purulia two members of the 
 Leprosy Commission visited the asylum. They expressed 
 their satisfaction with the work there in the following 
 terms : 
 
 “We visited the asylum on the 4th and 5th February, 
 and examined personally every case there. We were much 
 pleased with the excellent arrangements made for them. 
 Their houses were very clean, they were well clothed, and 
 apparently well fed, and they appeared to lead happy and 
 contented lives. The Rev. Mr. Uffmann, who exercises 
 the most careful personal superintendence of the asylum, 
 may be congratulated on the entire success of the asylum 
 — one of the very best we have seen during a lengthened 
 visit of such asylums throughout India. The children of 
 leprous parents and relatives are kept apart, and they ap- 
 peared to be extremely happy and comfortable. 
 
 “(Signed) A. Barclay, Surgeon-Major. 
 
 “A. A. Kunthak, f.r.c.s.eng. 
 
 “ Members of the Leprosy Commission. 
 
 “Purulia, 5 th February , I891.” 
 
 I am to leave this to-night in a push push garf (car- 
 riage) for Ranchi, where I should arrive sometime to-morrow 
 evening. The push push is an extraordinary conveyance 
 pushed and drawn by coolies ; that is, three men pull in 
 front and three push from behind; the occupant of the 
 conveyance can lie at full length in it, and by having a 
 mattress inside and some bedding can be tolerably comfort- 
 able for a long journey. The road is divided into stages, 
 and at each stage you get a fresh set of men. 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 ARRIVAL AT RANCHI. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 RANCHI AND LOHARDUGGA. 
 
 December 29. Ranchi. On Friday night, at 8.40, I left 
 Purulia in a Push Push, hoping to reach this place on 
 Saturday evening ; but the road was heavy — much of it 
 uphill — and the men did not exert themselves during the 
 night when I was asleep, and so we got on but slowly. 
 When I awoke on Saturday morning I was much dis- 
 appointed to find that we had made but little way, and 
 knew that I could not possibly reach this till very late that 
 night. There was no help for it, and so I made up my 
 mind to take it philosophically. We jogged on slowly all 
 day, and towards night I fell asleep again, being quite 
 wearied out, and was awakened by our drawing up at Dr. 
 Nottrott’s house at 11.10. Dr. Nottrott is the senior 
 missionary of Gossner’s Mission, and his house the first 
 one comes to on entering the mission premises from Purulia. 
 I would not allow the coolies to awaken anyone, but started 
 off myself to look for the house of Mr. and Mrs. Betzler, 
 whose guest I was to be. Fortunately it was bright moon- 
 light, and so I had no difficulty in finding my way about 
 this immense compound. It is a lovely spot — a gift from 
 a Raja to the mission when it was first started here, and 
 there is a stone erected, close to Dr. Nottrott’s house, on 
 the spot where the first missionaries pitched their tent on 
 November 2nd, 1845 — not half a century, and yet what 
 marvellous blessings have come to the poor Kols of Chota 
 Nagpore through the arrival of those missionaries ! 
 
THE WATCHMAN. 
 
 131 
 
 I first went to the house where my friends were living 
 when I was last here, but could find no servants, and it did 
 not seem to me as if anyone were living there. I then 
 went to another house — the right one as it happened — but 
 did not like to knock at the house or to make a noise, not 
 being sure, and I could not get anyone to stir in the servants’ 
 houses. It is the custom in India for the servants to occupy 
 small houses near that of their master, and one invariably 
 goes to them first if in any perplexity. I wandered through 
 a vegetable garden, and round to a long house where I saw 
 a light burning, and looking through a glass door I saw 
 some prostrate forms about on the floor, so I knew I was 
 looking into either the girls’ or boys’ dormitory ; but the 
 light was so dim I could not tell which. After some 
 difficulty I got one of the boys — as they turned out to be — 
 awake, and asked him to point me out Betzler Sahib’s 
 house ; then, being sure of the house, I went forward with 
 some degree of confidence. Selecting one of the servants’ 
 houses which looked likely, I knocked and knocked, until 
 at last I heard a grunt, and knew that I had hit upon life ; 
 so I knocked and knocked away again, and shook the door, 
 and called out, until the grunt developed into something 
 like a voice, and finally the owner of the voice consented 
 to get out of bed. He turned out to be the chaukidar or 
 watchman / I consulted with him as to the best way to get 
 my host aware of my presence, so he took me to a back- 
 door, and there the knocking process recommenced, and 
 went on for a considerable time, when at last the aya 
 (children’s nurse, who frequently sleeps in the house) 
 appeared, and then she went and roused her master and 
 mistress, both of whom most kindly got up and dressed, 
 and came out to meet me. I did feel so sorry to have to 
 awaken them. They had given me up, and had gone to 
 bed only a short while before. It was now 11.45 by my 
 time, the railway time, and 12.15 by theirs. Mrs. Betzler 
 
132 
 
 MORNING SERVICE AT RANCHI. 
 
 insisted on going off and making some tea ; and finally we 
 all got to bed about i o’clock. I had only stopped twice 
 on the road, for half an hour each time, to have a little 
 refreshment, Mrs. Uffmann having sent me away well-stocked 
 with provisions, and yet I was twenty-six and a half hours 
 on the way, at least five hours more than I should have 
 been. 
 
 Yesterday was the fulfilment of a long-cherished desire; 
 viz., to spend a Sunday amongst the native Christians of 
 Ranchi. How I wish I could give any idea of the morning 
 service ! Fortunately it was in Hindi, so I could understand 
 it all. There v r ere fully 1,000 native Christians present, of 
 whom about 300 were from the Christian boys’ and girls’ 
 schools. The large church still bears the bullet marks of 
 the mutiny, and opposite its front entrance still stands the 
 tree on which was meted out stern justice to the ringleaders 
 of the mutineers who wrecked the mission premises. How 
 different the scene now, with this large congregation of 
 native Christians assembled for the worship of the Peace- 
 maker ! The church was packed from end to end, many 
 being seated in the aisle. The singing was exquisite, 
 reminding me much of the style of the “Jubilee Singers.” 
 I asked Mr. Betzler how many of the people I saw in 
 church would be in mission employ. He said, “Perhaps 
 fifty, and there would be a few others employed as servants; 
 but all the others w r ere earning their own livelihood in 
 different ways. Some have land which they farm, some 
 work as coolies, and so on.” Dr. Nottrott tells me that 
 they have two other congregations in their mission much 
 larger than this ; and besides these Lutheran Christians, 
 the S.P.G. Society have also large congregations. 
 
 This morning I visited the boys’ and girls’ schools ; the 
 girls sang for me very sweetly, and the boys played some 
 pieces on their brass instruments They have a good band, 
 trained by Mr. Jemske, one of the missionaries here. 
 
WELCOME TO LOHARDUGGA. 
 
 133 
 
 Dr. Nottrott kindly took me out for a drive in the after- 
 noon, and showed me a good deal of the station. I am 
 just about to leave for Lohardugga, where I hope to arrive 
 in the early morning. 
 
 December 30. Tuesday. Lohardugga. I arrived here, 
 after a good journey in a push push, at 7 this morning, and 
 received a very hearty welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Hahn, 
 of Gossner’s Mission, my old friends. My arrival was 
 somewhat of a surprise, as the letter announcing my in- 
 tention of being with them this morning only got here last 
 night; this was rather a disappointment to the native 
 Christians, who had been preparing an elaborate reception 
 for me. One large arch of welcome was, however, hastily 
 got into position, but unfortunately it was placed at the 
 entrance to the mission premises by which I came in four 
 years ago ; whereas this time, by the advice of my friends 
 at Ranchi, I had come by another road, and so entered the 
 compound from a different side. I none the less appreciate, 
 however, the kindness of my native brethren. 
 
 Immediately after chhoti hazri, Mr. Hahn, and I, together 
 with Mr. Dalh, missionary from Darbungah, and Mr. Ekhert, 
 a new missionary from Germany, went over to the asylum, 
 and spent a considerable time in going over everything. 
 There has been a nice house built for the native Christian 
 doctor and his wife, in which there is one room given up to 
 a dispensary. There has also been a new house built for 
 the lepers, while the children, of whom there are eight boys 
 and ten girls, have separate homes of their own. A new 
 chapel has also been built, which is much better suited for 
 the purpose it is intended for than the former one, being 
 more commodious, and much better ventilated. The lepers 
 who had known me before were, needless to say, glad to see 
 me again. Our old friend Christocharan (at the feet of Christ) 
 
 is very bright, also Miss F. M ’s leper, Yusuf; but poor 
 
 Mir Ali is, I am grieved to say, still a Mahommedan, at 
 
134 
 
 TERRIBLE FACTS. 
 
 least outwardly, and he, poor fellow, is in a very awful 
 condition. I do not think he can live long; nothing seems 
 to give him any relief now ; the bones of several fingers are 
 sticking out, jagged and stripped of all flesh. He is truly 
 a living corpse ! We spoke to him very earnestly to-day. 
 He has no peace or comfort, since he still holds out against 
 Christ.* 
 
 To-day we heard of a melancholy case of a man twelve 
 miles from here who has been deserted by his friends (?), 
 and who is lying in an awful condition, almost dying of 
 neglect and starvation, on whom the worms have already 
 begun to feed. He is to be sent for to-morrow. We have 
 also heard of another leper who wishes to come in. I dare- 
 say both will have arrived before I leave. There are at 
 present twenty-two men in the asylum, but no women ; 
 none have had the courage to come since all the women 
 were swept away by the cholera two years ago. Of the 
 twenty-two, fourteen are Christians, two of whom have 
 been baptized this year, together with the wife and two 
 children of one of them, the daughter of a heathen leper, 
 and the widow and three children of a deceased leper — a 
 total of ten souls in connection with the Leper Asylum. 
 There are still some children in the asylum whose relatives 
 
 * This great sufferer has since passed away. Mr. Hahn writes of 
 his death as follows : “ Poor Mir Ali died lately. His strength was 
 entirely exhausted. I am glad of having been able to see him frequently 
 just before the end of his wearisome travel on earth. Almost the last 
 word I heard from his quivering lips was, ‘ Main lie apne ko Isu Baba 
 ke hath men zima kiya” (I have given myself into the hand of the 
 Lord Jesus). I was glad of this, in spite of his desire, expressed a few 
 minutes before, to be buried by his Mussulman friends in the town. 
 His idea was, as far as I could gather, that his wretched body might 
 be disposed of by his earthly friends, and thus to save his honour in 
 their memory, whilst he committed his soul to the tender mercies of 
 the Saviour he had come to know here. Shall we condemn him ? . . . 
 I am a child, and I will leave the question to be answered by my Father 
 in heaven ; but confess I must that I have some hope for Mir Ali.” 
 
PROMISES FOR i8gi. 
 
 135 
 
 are not yet willing to part with them, but we hope soon to 
 persuade them to do so, in order to place them in the 
 children’s homes. 
 
 To-day I conducted evening worship for the lepers in 
 Hindi, and enjoyed it greatly. I spoke of Christ healing 
 the leper, and they seemed greatly interested, and to 
 appreciate His wonderful condescension. To-morrow night 
 I am to have the privilege of addressing the whole Christian 
 congregation, it being the last night in the year. 
 
 December 31. Wednesday. The last day of 1890! A 
 year of many and great mercies. I was just thinking how 
 ever to face the unknown 1891 when it occurred to me to 
 look at my chapter for the day, and here is what I find : 
 “The wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for 
 them; and the desert shall rejoice, and blossom as the rose. 
 It shall blossom abundantly, and rejoice even with joy and 
 singing. . . . Strengthen ye the weak hands, and confirm 
 the feeble knees. Say to them that are of a fearful heart, 
 Be strong, fear not. . . . He will come and save you.” 
 
 This morning Mr. Hahn and I have been again round 
 visiting the lepers, and have had some interesting con- 
 versations with some of them. I had a nice talk with 
 Yusuf; he seems very bright, and sent salams and thanks 
 
 to Miss F. M . I heard some of the lepers being 
 
 instructed in the word of God, and I also saw the little 
 girls in school. I heard them read in Hindi, and asked 
 them some simple Bible questions, which they answered 
 very fairly. I am very much impressed with the thorough- 
 ness of all the mission work being done here. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Hahn and I had a pleasant walk 
 together, when he told me some interesting anecdotes 
 regarding the people of this district. Once he was bap- 
 tizing a Kol, when the man said, “Sahib Ji, I have an arz 
 to make.” (Sir, I wish to make a request.) Mr. Hahn, 
 fearing that perhaps he was seeking baptism from purely 
 
THE BHUT. 
 
 136 
 
 worldly motives, said, 
 “If it is anything about 
 money, or anything of 
 that sort, you must not 
 ask me.” But the man 
 said, “No, sahib, it is 
 not that ) but there is 
 a bhut (demon) in my 
 house, and I want it 
 away.” “ Well, throw it 
 out.” “No, sahib,” said 
 the poor fellow, “ I 
 would be afraid. Will 
 you please do it for 
 me?” The man showed 
 him where it was, in a 
 basket hanging up, and 
 on getting down the 
 basket Mr. Hahn found 
 the bhut in the midst 
 of little bits of decayed 
 meat and skin, and be 
 smeared with blood. It 
 appears that w T hen the 
 Kols offer an animal 
 in sacrifice they always 
 put some blood upon 
 the family bhut, and 
 give it a few* scraps 
 of the meat, or small 
 pieces of skin of the 
 animal sacrificed, and 
 these they allow to rot 
 in the basket in which 
 the bhut is kept. Mr. 
 
WOODEN COW BELL. 
 
 137 
 
 WOODEN COW BELL AS USED AT LOHARDUGGA. 
 
 Hahn has given me a bhut ; it is a simple piece of wood, 
 about six inches long, very roughly carved into somewhat 
 
THE HOLS AXD THE CATTLE DISEASE. 
 
 I3S 
 
 the shape of a carrot, and charred top and bottom ; it is 
 sometimes hung up to a beam of the house by a piece 
 of string. These poor people having been taught from 
 infancy that every evil in life comes from the bhut, find 
 it very difficult, even on becoming Christians, to throw 
 off the superstitious dread. 
 
 Mr. Hahn also told me how the Kols get rid of the 
 cattle disease. They first sacrifice a cow from the herd, 
 and, taking the wooden bell which it wore from round its 
 neck, they sprinkle some of the blood upon it, and then 
 tie it round the neck of the gwala (cowherd), whereupon 
 he immediately becomes possessed by the bhut which has 
 caused all the trouble, and commences trembling all over, 
 biting and kicking anyone who may come near him. The 
 people then get sticks, and drive him away with imprecations, 
 and, if necessary, with blows ; so driving him till he arrives 
 at the boundary of the village lands, when he is at liberty 
 to take off the bell and throw it away, and return to his 
 home, the bhut having now departed, and the plague being 
 stayed. The reason that it is the gwala who is thus treated 
 is that he is supposed to have neglected his duty, and so is 
 in disgrace. It is customary to place bells of wood or 
 copper on the necks of several of the herd, so that when 
 the cattle wander in the jungle they may not get lost : the 
 sound of these bells is sometimes very melodious as the 
 cattle come grazing along. 
 
 In the evening I addressed the native Christians in the 
 large church ; many of the lepers also came. They have a 
 side aisle given up to themselves, where they always sit on 
 Sundays, and into which they can get by a side door without 
 having to come up the rest of the church. This aisle is 
 close to and on the left of the pulpit, so that it is quite 
 easy to address oneself to the lepers, as well as to the rest 
 of the congregation ; and when one turns one’s head in 
 their direction, they seem to take it as if quite intended for 
 
NE IV- YEAR’S DAY, i8gi. 
 
 139 
 
 them especially. I spoke on the necessity of having a 
 friend for the new year on which we were about to enter, 
 and asked them whom they would make their friend ; 
 taking for my text Jesus as the Friend of the Bethany 
 family. These poor lepers do need a friend if ever anyone 
 did. 
 
 New-year's Day , 1891. “Be strong . . . fear not.” What a 
 grand word to enter on the new year with ! Mr. Hahn is, 
 I am grieved to say, not well to-day, and so I took the 
 morning service for him, at least I preached the sermon, 
 Mr. Dalh reading the service, which is liturgical. I took 
 for my text, “ Good Master, what shall I do that I may 
 inherit eternal life?” I like the form of service which 
 they use here very much ; it is solemn and reverent. The 
 native Christians seem to quite understand it, and answer 
 the responses very well. The custom here is to stand for 
 the reading of the Scriptures, and for most of the prayers, 
 and to sit for the singing of the hymns. 
 
 We have a tea-planter staying here just now; he came 
 with some others to recruit coolies for his tea-gardens in 
 Darjeeling, but has broken down with a very severe attack 
 of fever. The others had to leave, and so he was left 
 entirely alone at the Dak Bungalow, very ill, and without a 
 friend. The missionaries have most kindly taken him in, 
 and are nursing him ; he seems very grateful for their 
 kindness. I hope he will have a good word to say for 
 missionaries when he returns to England some day, and 
 remembers how they were kind to him when he was “a 
 stranger in a strange land.” So many forget these little 
 kindnesses ! Mr. Hahn was better in the afternoon, and 
 so able to be out for a walk, and also able to take the 
 evening service. He preached a most powerful and 
 solemn sermon on the barren fig-tree. 
 
 A startling thing has taken place to-day. A poor leper 
 who was in church this morning is now lying dead ! When 
 
i 4 o 
 
 A SOLEMN EVENT. 
 
 we were coming back from our afternoon walk we passed 
 through the asylum, and seeing a few women and children 
 gathered round something, we went over and found this 
 poor fellow lying quite dead. He had been walking about a 
 few minutes before, and had suddenly sunk down and died. 
 This morning, when preaching, I had reminded the people 
 that many of our friends had passed away during the past 
 year, and had said, “ Who can tell which of us may be 
 called away this year ? ” This solemn event is the enforcing 
 of what I said. Truly, “ in the midst of life we are in death.” 
 Who knows but that this poor man may have heard the 
 Word, and received it gladly ? He had not been long 
 in the asylum, but was a regular attendant at the church 
 services. 
 
 January 2. Friday. In the morning Mr. Hahn and 
 I paid a visit to the Christian village of Seringhatu (about 
 two miles from the mission house, Lohardugga), in order to 
 call upon the Christians there — seventeen households. At 
 the confines of the village we were met by some boys in 
 their natural dress of a black skin — the people are ex- 
 ceedingly poor, and cannot afford to put clothes on their 
 children — and yet, in this very primitive attire, when the 
 Christian lads stood amongst a group of heathen boys of 
 the same village, and clad in the same tight-fitting costume, 
 one could easily distinguish them; there was an open 
 frankness about their manner which showed there was 
 something different from the others, besides which none of 
 the Christian lads wore the hateful choti (the lock of hair 
 on the top of an otherwise closely-cropped head, which is a 
 badge of Hinduism). Conducted by the Christian boys 
 we went from house to house, and at each house men and 
 women came out to shake hands and greet us with, “ Isa 
 Sahai.” Before shaking hands many of the women hastily 
 washed their hands, and without waiting to dry them 
 presented the dripping hand to be shaken, and we shook 
 
A MODERN HANiVAD. 
 
 141 
 
 them as heartily as the dry ones. Who could do otherwise ? 
 Mr. Hahn had a kind word for all, and could, of course, 
 speak to them in their own Urao ; but they all understood 
 Hindi, so that I too had the privilege of a word now and 
 then. They are very poor people, but quite independent. 
 Occasionally Mr. Hahn would address a heathen man or 
 woman, and would ask them why they too would not take 
 Jesus as their Saviour. Very often the hindrance in these 
 Kol villages is that they are not willing to give up their 
 drinking customs, which the Christians renounce for ever. 
 The out-still system is working fearful havoc amongst these 
 poor simple people. Oh that our rulers could see it ! At 
 one house, that of an elder, we sat down for a little, and 
 two women brought basins and water, and each in turn 
 washed our hands. We had prayer at this house before 
 leaving, and as it was in Hindi I enjoyed it thoroughly. 
 It was a great privilege to meet with those simple-minded 
 janglf people, and worship with them. They showed us a 
 book in which was kept an account of receipts and ex- 
 penditure of the offerings to the Lord. Poor as they are, 
 they contrive to give something for the Lord’s work. It is 
 their custom to send in to the church at Lohardugga 
 requests for prayer, or notes of thanksgiving for some 
 special mercy or deliverance, and when they do so they 
 invariably make an offering to the Lord at the same time. 
 For instance, a man has lately returned from the tea-gardens 
 of Darjeeling, where he has been for three years, and he at 
 once sent a request that thanks might be given for his safe 
 return to his home. 
 
 In one house we found a young woman, who on being 
 asked by Mr. Hahn if she were happy, said that she 
 sometimes felt very depressed ; and on a little more close 
 questioning on the part of her pastor, she said that she 
 was at times very sad that God had not given her a 
 child. Like Hannah of old, she was “a woman of a 
 
142 A MAGIC-LANTERN WITH THE LEPERS. 
 
 sorrowful spirit.” As Mr. Hahn tried to comfort her 
 the tears ran freely down her cheeks. The visit to this 
 village was a delightful experience; it gave me an insight 
 into the village life of these people, and an insight into the 
 happy relations which exist between these village Christians 
 and the missionaries. When one sees these things how 
 one longs that friends at home, who are really interested in 
 missions, could see and know them for themselves. It would 
 give such an impetus to the cause of Christ in heathen 
 lands. How one wishes too that dear brethren in less 
 favoured parts of the field, where converts are few and far 
 between, and sometimes not very satisfactory, when they do 
 embrace Christianity, could occasionally visit those parts of 
 the country where the work is receiving such manifest 
 tokens of the divine favour; it would so refresh their spirits, 
 and they might possibly get hints and helps that would 
 enable them to labour with more joy, and perhaps more 
 success. How our sympathies should go out to those of 
 our faithful missionaries who are labouring in parts of the 
 field where scarcely one convert rewards their efforts in a 
 whole year 1 how we should bear them on our heart before 
 the throne of grace ! But, alas ! I fear that most of us are 
 taken up with the successful ones, and it is to them that 
 our sympathies largely go out. 
 
 In the afternoon I went to the Girls’ School and heard 
 all the children sing, and afterwards had a romp with the 
 girls and boys in the mission compound. 
 
 We closed the day — and I a very delightful visit — by a 
 magic-lantern exhibition for the poor lepers in the little 
 prayer-room at the asylum. The lepers were delighted with 
 the pictures. Mr. Hahn explained most of the slides — 
 Scripture ones — and I and a native brother the remainder. 
 After that I said good-bye to the lepers, and got salams 
 and Isa Sahais to take to my wife and children, and to all 
 the friends of the lepers at home. 
 
MUSCULAR CHRISTIANS. 
 
 143 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 RANCHI, PURULIA, ASANSOL, BHAGULPORE, 
 AND CALCUTTA. 
 
 January 4. Sunday. Ranchi. I left Lohardugga yester- 
 day morning at 6.15, and, travelling all day, reached this 
 at 7 p.m. Mr. Hahn was to have accompanied me, 
 but unfortunately had another attack of fever, so had 
 to remain behind, and I came on alone. I stopped on 
 the road at a place called Chatti, an out-station of the 
 Lohardugga Mission, and breakfasted there. It is a pretty 
 place, and has a large church and some houses occupied 
 by a native pastor and some Christians. The church serves 
 for eight or nine different villages, the Christians from 
 which, numbering about 300, come and worship there 
 For my first stage out from Lohardugga all my coolies 
 were Christians from the village of Seringhatu, which Mr. 
 Hahn and I visited on Friday last — splendid fellows all of 
 them, able and willing to earn their own bread by honest 
 hard work, and not above pulling or pushing a conveyance 
 for eight miles. I was greatly pleased with their bright, 
 pleasant ways. They were dressed — well, not so airily as 
 Professor Drummond’s boatmen, “ in a few musquitoes and 
 a little palm-oil,” but, the day being warm and the work 
 heavy, they were content with a simple waist-cloth ; much 
 better this, and certainly much more natural, than if they 
 were to dress in European cast-off clothes, and wear a tall 
 hat, as some people would like them to do ! Of course, 
 when they come to church the very poorest of them manage 
 
 h 
 
144 
 
 FAREWELL TO rURULLA. 
 
 to clothe themselves a little more, and the women of these 
 parts always contrive to clothe themselves decently. 
 
 There was another beautiful service in the Ranchi church 
 this morning, and the place again crowded, even to the 
 very aisle. I was asked to preach in the morning, but was 
 too tired after my journey yesterday; but I did so in the 
 evening, and had a large audience. I am again the guest 
 of my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Betzler. After evening 
 service all the missionaries assembled at their house, and 
 we had a pleasant time together. Mr. Jemske kindly came 
 with his Boys’ Brass Band, and got them to play us some 
 hymns in the verandah ; they play exceptionally welL 
 
 January 6. Tuesday. I started from Ranchi yesterday in 
 a push-push, and travelled all day and all night, arriving 
 at Purulia this morning at about 7 0’ clock, having made a 
 much better journey than when I went from Purulia to 
 Ranchi : the road was in better condition, there was not 
 so much up-hill, and I had better men ; I was wonderfully 
 fresh too when I arrived, though I had had nineteen hours 
 of it. 
 
 I have visited the Purulia Leper Asylum once more with 
 Mr. L'ffrnann, and have had a most touching farewell from 
 the lepers, who made a last and urgent request that I would 
 procure them a magic-lantern. Some time ago, Mr Hahn 
 kindly brought over his lantern and gave the lepers here an 
 entertainment, with which they were charmed, having never 
 seen anything of the kind before. I now put their request 
 on paper, and shall be glad to hear from any friend who 
 may feel disposed to give them a lantern, with a couple of 
 sets of good Scripture slides ; a second-hand lantern, if in 
 good order, will do quite well — it should be a rock-oil 
 lantern, of three or four wick power. 
 
 At 9 p.m. Mr. Uffrnann and I left Purulia, by train, for 
 Asansol — he was on his way to Calcutta, and I was to stop 
 at Asansol. We arrived at Asansol at about midnight ; 
 
WHOM SHALL WE TRUST TO? 
 
 145 
 
 Mr. Uffmann went on by another train, and I went to the 
 house of my friends Mr. and Mrs. Byers, who have kindly 
 asked me to stay with them. Mr. Byers was good enough 
 to meet me at the train, and we walked home together, 
 coolies bringing on my traps. Mr. Uffmann has procured 
 me a servant at Purulia to go on with me the rest of my 
 journey, as I shall require one in Burma, and the South; 
 he is a native Christian lad, named Jonathan. 
 
 January 7. Wednesday. Asansol. Mr. and Mrs. Byers, 
 who are my kind host and hostess here, are missionaries of 
 the Methodist Episcopal Mission, and are, I believe, the 
 first missionaries to be resident here. There is, I believe, a 
 station of the Church Missionary Society near by. I feel 
 a considerable interest in this place, as Mr. Byers wrote to 
 me in January of last year begging of the Mission to 
 Lepers to do something for the lepers here. He said 
 in that letter, “ It is in our hearts to do something to relieve 
 their suffering as much as possible, and provide them with 
 a retreat where they can be cared for. . . . Christmas-day, 
 when the lepers came round, they begged most pitifully for 
 a piece of cloth each, with which to keep out the cold. I 
 felt very bad because I had not the means to make 
 Christmas memorable and merry for them. Rs. 20 (jQ 2 ) 
 would have given each a new ‘ kapra ’ (cloth), but I hadn’t 
 it. . . . We have reason to believe that all our singing, 
 preaching, and teaching is not lost upon them. One day I 
 overheard a man say, ‘Whom shall we trust to?’ ‘Not 
 to Ram, but to Jesus,’ was the emphatic reply of one of 
 those sitting near him. . . . Our leper service is held on 
 the grass in front of the Mission House, and it is one 
 of our most promising works.” 
 
 In response to that letter the committee wrote for further 
 particulars, and finally made up their minds to build an 
 asylum at Asansol if a site could be secured. A kind lady 
 friend in Scotland has undertaken to provide the amount 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 CHRIS TAR AM. 
 
 necessary to build an asylum, having rooms for men and 
 women, and, if possible, a separate home for the untainted 
 children. The whole place is to be called “ Christaram ” 
 (Rest in Christ), being the name taken at his baptism by a 
 Christian leper, who, though only a few months a Christian, 
 wrote the following touching hymn before his death : 
 
 0 my soul, do not disregard the love of Jesus. If you despise this 
 
 love your soul will have to suffer eternal pain. 
 
 O my soul, do not despise the love of Jesus. 
 
 If you despise the love of Jesus, your soul will remain peaceless. 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 Behold by His grace you have become rich ; but, O my soul, under- 
 stand the value of it. 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 If you are pressed with affliction, commit yourselves to Him, or make 
 it over to Jesus. 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 1 am a sinner, and everlastingly lost ; but thou, O Lord, art mighty 
 
 to save. , c 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 O Lord, I have one application, Thou hast come down into this 
 world as a true merchant to save souls. 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 The soul of Christaram is full of fear, do not leave me, O Jesus. 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 O Lord, Thou hast ascended to Heaven, to the Father, and intercedest 
 
 for me. 0 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 Victory ! victory ! The Lord has overcome ! Victory over death ! 
 and is ascended to Heaven. 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 The Lord has given His life for sinners, what a bottomless grace 
 
 is that ! , c 
 
 O my soul, &c. 
 
 Not much as a literary composition, but what a grasp the 
 man got in those few short months of “ the Truth as it is 
 in Jesus.” 
 
HIS FIRST SITUATION. 
 
 147 
 
 Mr. Byers and I have been out to-day looking at one or 
 two likely sites for the new Asylum, but have not met with 
 much encouragement as yet. The station of Asansol 
 belongs to the Railway Company, and as this is one of 
 their large centres of operations they require every inch of 
 ground they can get, and so sites are not to be had any- 
 where near ; we hope, however, to get one at a little distance- 
 out from the station, and it is, of course, well that a Leper 
 Asylum should be some distance from other habitations. 
 
 I am having an exceedingly pleasant time with my 
 friends here, who are earnest missionaries. This evening 
 I had the privilege of conducting a Bible Reading at their 
 house. From here I go on to Bhagulpore, and thence to 
 Calcutta. On my return journey I am to call here for a 
 day again, and Mr. Byers is in the meantime to try and 
 secure a site for the Asylum. 
 
 January 9. Bhagulpore. I left Asansol last night at 
 9.15, and was in the train almost all night. At 4 a.m. the 
 train arrived at Luckie Serai, where I was obliged to change 
 into the Loop-line train for Bhagulpore. There was some 
 delay at Luckie Serai before the other train came up, and 
 while sitting on some bags of corn I got into conversation 
 with a lad from Asansol, who was on his way to join his 
 first appointment, having but just left school. This lad 
 had been present at the Bible Reading at the Mission 
 House on the Wednesday evening, and so we felt that we 
 already in a way knew each other. The boy was very 
 proud of having left school and of so soon getting a place 
 in an office, and we had some pleasant chat together; 
 one thing led on to another, and finally I was enabled to 
 press home upon him the claims of his Saviour. He took it 
 very nicely, and, I have reason to hope, thought seriously of 
 it all. He told me of his sister, who, he said, was an 
 earnest Christian. 
 
 I reached this place at 8.10 a.m., and was met by the 
 
A EUROPEAN LEPER. 
 
 14S 
 
 Rev. J. A. Cullen of the C. M. S. He drove me to the 
 house of Mr. and Mrs. Beatty, who have very kindly 
 invited me to put up with them during my stay in 
 Bhagulpore. Mr. Beatty is Executive Engineer here. Mr. 
 Cullen has taken a deep interest in trying to get up a Leper 
 Asylum for this place ; but the matter first took shape 
 through Mr. Grant, who lives here for a few months every 
 winter, kindly offering a sum of money to help to establish 
 an Asylum. The Rev. Mr. Weber, of the C. M. S., who 
 was here before Mr. Cullen, took a great deal of trouble 
 about it j but there were difficulties in the way, and so 
 hitherto nothing definite has been done beyond issuing an 
 appeal, which Mr. Weber did some time ago. A native 
 gentleman here, Roy Bahadur Shib Chandar Banerji, has 
 from the first taken a very great interest in the establish- 
 ment of an Asylum, and largely through his interest and 
 efforts a large sum of money — Rs. 10,000, has been secured, 
 and this money is now to be handed over, with Mr. Grant's 
 donation of Rs. r,ooo, and another donation of Rs. 500, 
 to the Mission to Lepers for the benefit of lepers in 
 Bhagulpore. None of this money can, however, be spent 
 out of Bhagulpore. 
 
 After breakfast Mr. Cullen kindly took me to call upon 
 Mr. Shib Chandar Banerji, and he drove us in his own 
 carriage to see a house and property which is for sale, and 
 which is considered suitable for the purposes of an Asylum. 
 It is a beautiful spot ; there is a good pucca house and 
 some out-offices ready for use, and we have all agreed that 
 it is to be purchased for the Asylum. 
 
 On our way home from seeing the house Mr. Cullen and 
 I got down to visit a poor leper gentleman, a European, 
 who lives here. He was once a Government official, but 
 had to leave the service on developing leprosy. Poor 
 fellow ! he now lives a lonely, sad life, cut off from every- 
 body, and spending most of his time in a darkened room, 
 
BHAGUI.PORE. 
 
 149 
 
 as his eyes have been attacked by the disease, and he 
 cannot stand the glare. Mr. Cullen and the Civil Surgeon 
 visit him regularly, and are very kind to him. I found him 
 an interesting man, intelligent and well read ; it was 
 grievous to see him in such a plight. Truly his is a 
 desolate lot. 
 
 January 12. Monday. Bhagulpore. I have been 
 spending a very pleasant time here. On Saturday I called 
 upon Dr. Beatson,* and he has kindly promised to take the 
 medical superintendence of our Asylum after it has been 
 set a-going here. Called also on Mr. Grant, and afterwards 
 on the ladies of the C.E.Z.M.S., Miss Pinniger and Miss 
 Hall. In the evening of the same day I went with my 
 kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Beatty to an “ At Home ” at the 
 house of a Mr. and Mrs. Wilkie, and after having been 
 there for a little while I discovered that our host and 
 hostess had travelled out to India with me in the Kaisar-i- 
 Hind four years ago. 
 
 Sunday was a very bright, pleasant day. In the morning 
 I went to early Communion in the English church con- 
 ducted by Mr. Cullen. In the afternoon I went down to 
 the Church Missionary Society’s premises at the old 
 Cantonments and addressed the native Christians in the 
 mission church, Mr. Cullen conducting the service. Mr. 
 Cullen and I then went for a stroll round the old military 
 lines. I remained with him for the night, as Mr. and Mrs. 
 Beatty have had to go out in camp, and am still at the 
 Mission House, but leaving to-day for Calcutta. This is 
 one of those places in which mission work seems very 
 much at a standstill ; the missionary works as faithfully as 
 ever, but the people seem to have got Gospel-hardened. 
 The present position of the mission seems to be most 
 unsuitable ; gradually this part of the station has been 
 
 Just as we go to press we grieve to hear of Dr. Beatson’s death. 
 
I 5° 
 
 CALCUTTA. 
 
 deserted, while the great bulk of the people live at least 
 three miles away. Mr. Cullen, who has been but a short 
 while here, will have uphill work, but he has his heart in it, 
 and with the blessing of God's Holy Spirit he will yet see 
 bright days dawn for Bhagulpore. I sincerely hope, how- 
 ever, that the position of the mission will be changed, and 
 that Mr. Cullen will be allowed to go and live in the midst 
 of the people amongst whom he is to labour. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Brown, of the C. M. S., from Burdwan, are 
 staying here just now, Mr. Brown having come for change 
 of air to try and throw off Burdwan fever, which seems to 
 have got a firm hold upon him. 
 
 This morning Mr. Cullen and I called upon Mr. Quin, 
 the Commissioner, formerly of Patna, on business about 
 the proposed Leper Asylum. He was most kind and 
 obliging, and seemed anxious to help us in every way in 
 his power. From there we went to breakfast with the 
 ladies of the C. E. Z. M.S., and I had the pleasure of 
 conducting family worship for them and their native 
 assistants (eight Christian women) in Hindustani. The 
 ladies’ work at this station began in 1882, and when I 
 was last here, in January', 1887, the lady missionaries were 
 Dr. Fanny Butler (who has since died in Kashmir, and 
 whose death has been a tremendous loss to mission work), 
 Miss Haitz, and Miss Pinniger. After tiifen I bid good-bye 
 to Mr. Cullen, who has been most kind, and has laid him- 
 self out to forward the interests of the work here in every 
 way in his power. Mr. Brown was able to drive with me 
 as far as the railway station and see me off. 
 
 Ja 7 iuary 13. Tuesday. Calcutta. Once more in the 
 capital of India. I was last here just four years ago. My 
 train arrived this morning at 6 o’clock, and I drove straight 
 to the C. M. S. house in Mission Row to call upon Mr. 
 Clifford, the Secretary of the C. M. S., and get my letters 
 from him, as he had kindly allowed them to be addressed 
 
STRANGE SIGNBOARDS. 
 
 151 
 
 to his office. An early hour to make a call ; but this is 
 India, and I knew that by the time I should reach the 
 house everyone would be sure to be about. I saw Mr. 
 Clifford for a few minutes, and then drove on to the 
 General Assembly’s Institute, in Cornwallis Square, where I 
 am the guest of the Rev. James and Mrs. Edwards, 
 missionaries of the Church of Scotland here. Both Mr. 
 and Mrs. Edwards are old friends. I am having a hurried 
 day in Calcutta, as I am to leave in the morning for 
 Rangoon in the B. I. S. N. Company’s steamer Patna. As 
 I drove into the city to-day I passed a sign over a native 
 shop as follows, “ Old Books for sale — Dam (sic) cheap.” 
 One could not but blush for one’s country, and ask oneself, Is 
 this what we are teaching the natives ? If they learn only 
 our oaths and our brandy drinking from us, how terrible ! 
 and if this be the only side of English life which they see, 
 is it not sad ? But oh ! thank God, it is not so. They do 
 learn these things, it is true; but they learn a great deal 
 that is noble and good, and that not only from missionaries, 
 but from true Christian men and women, to be found to- 
 day in all ranks of English society throughout India. The 
 natives are wonderful at imitating everything European. 
 Close to where I saw the above signboard a man named 
 AVhiteman came and set up a shop, and put his name over 
 the door as “ Whiteman & Co.”; whereupon there very 
 soon appeared several new firms, entitled, “ Redman & 
 Co.,” “ Blackman & Co.,” and “ Fairman & Co.” 
 
 In the evening I had the pleasure of attending one of 
 Dr. Pentecost’s services for English-speaking natives, held 
 at the General Assembly’s Institution, but was disappointed 
 in the attendance. 
 
 
152 
 
 CALCUTTA TO RANGOON. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 RANGOON, MANDALAY, AND 31 A UL MAIN. 
 
 Ja?iuary 17. Rangoon. On Wednesday, the 14th, at 
 6.52 a.m., I left the Sealdah Station, Calcutta, for Diamond 
 Harbour, my kind host, Mr. Edwards, having come at that 
 early hour to see me off at the station. The Rev. Mr. 
 Dyer, Mrs. Dyer, and child, were my carriage companions, 
 and they too were going to join the steamer for Burma. 
 Mr. Dyer is an English Chaplain, and was proceeding to a 
 place beyond Mandalay, after a furlough at home. We 
 reached the harbour — a mud creek — at 9 o’clock, and were 
 at once taken on board the B. I. S. N. Co.’s steamer Patna 
 in a small steam-launch. Most of our fellow-passengers 
 had come down the river with the steamer the evening 
 before ; but I much prefer to make the effort to get up in 
 the morning, and come down by the special train, as you 
 thus avoid a hot night in the river with musquitoes, besides 
 which it gives one a much longer time in Calcutta. 
 
 Punctually at 10 o’clock the Patna started, and at 6 this 
 morning we arrived here after a beautiful passage down. 
 My cabin companions were a Mr. Pullar from Scotland, 
 and a Mr. Boileau, son of Sir Francis and Lady Boileau, 
 who were also on board. Our first day out from Calcutta 
 was very cool, but after that it became very hot and dis- 
 agreeable; we were, however, very comfortable on board, 
 and were taken good care of. It seems strange to be 
 writing of hot relaxing weather when in the telegrams from 
 England one sees, “ Severe weather in England. Thames 
 
SHOAY DAGON PAGODA. 
 
 153 
 
 frozen over,” & c. When on the Patna I had some con- 
 versation with Mrs. Dyer regarding the lepers of this place. 
 She told me that they abound here, and are in a most 
 pitiable condition. Her heart has been often wrung by what 
 she has seen. At the time of the Queen’s Jubilee cele- 
 brations a great deal of money was collected in Rangoon, 
 and an effort was then made to use some of it to better the 
 condition of the unfortunate lepers ; but other counsels 
 prevailed, and though most of the money was collected 
 from the Burmans yet it was squandered on folly. 
 
 I came on shore here immediately on arrival this morning, 
 and drove straight to the railway station, where I left my 
 baggage, thence to Jordan’s Hotel, and afterwards to the 
 great Pagoda, said to be the most celebrated in the world. 
 We find it thus described : “ Shoay Dagon Pagoda (Bhud- ' 
 dist Temple) — a conical building, one of the most remark- > 
 able in the world ; it is said to be the most celebrated 
 object of worship in all Indo-Chinese countries. According 
 to palm leaf records it was founded in 588 b.c., or 43 
 years before the death of Gautama, when that sage was 
 thirty-five years of age. Some of Buddha’s hairs are said 
 to be enshrined at the top, over which there is a huge 
 umbrella, made of iron, richly gilt and studded with 
 precious stones; this alone is said to have cost Rs. 620,000 
 (jQ 62,000 ). It was brought down the river from Mandalay 
 in 1871, and was escorted by a British officer; it was then 
 set up amidst great rejoicings. The building is 321 feet 
 high, and 1,130 feet in circumference at the base. The 
 great bell at the north-east corner is 7 feet 7J inches in 
 diameter at the mouth.” 
 
 The Pagoda (or Dagoba) itself is a solid block of 
 masonry, tapering gradually from the base to a small spire, 
 which is surmounted by the umbrella, and is heavily gilt 
 from top to bottom — the amount of money which has been 
 spent on the gilding alone must be immense. From the 
 
154 
 
 SAD SIGHTS. 
 
 road to the courtyard in which the Pagoda stands you 
 ascend by a series of long flights of steps, the sides of 
 which are lined by vendors of various kinds of small wares 
 and curios. There were also numbers of lepers sitting on 
 the steps begging. I saw one dead leper being carried 
 away from the steps to be burned. In India the Hindus 
 will not burn a leper, not considering him worthy of that 
 honour. 
 
 The place is full of interest to the traveller, and is well 
 worth close inspection. I found hundreds upon hundreds 
 of candles burning before the different images, to which 
 fruit, flowers, and food of various kinds were being offered 
 in abundance. Hundreds of poor worshippers, young and 
 old, were prostrating themselves before the various shrines, 
 and mumbling incessantly ; some were smoking, and some 
 were laughing and chatting and cracking jokes, in the 
 midst of which they would apparently suddenly recollect 
 4 their devotions, would lay down their cheroot, and prostrate 
 themselves again. Immense images of Gautama were 
 everywhere to be seen. In one temple there were extra- 
 ordinary paintings on the wall, pictures of people being 
 tortured, I suppose in a future state. One wretch was 
 represented attempting to climb a tree, his brains being 
 picked out by a bird from above, and his feet being torn off 
 by dogs from beneath; another is seated on the ground 
 while two men are sawing him in halves, right through the 
 head downwards, the blood all the while flowing in gallons ! 
 Others are being fried in caldrons ; others are being chopped 
 up into pieces ; in one instance the head, having been 
 entirely severed from the body, is looking on in consternation 
 at the rest of the body being chopped up ! 
 
 You can go unhindered anywhere amongst the numerous 
 shrines, with shoes on — go close up and touch anything, 
 and no one will interfere as long as you do not attempt to 
 take anything ; indeed, it seems to give them pleasure when 
 
Tlic Wesloynn Missionaries with native lid j.cib, Mnmlnlay. Rev. W. It. Winston, founder of tile Leper Asylum, 
 in the centre, Rev. A. 11. llcstnll on Mr. Winston's left hand, and the Rev. Mr. Thomas on his right. Vnye l.'fi. 
 
RANGOON. 
 
 155 
 
 you examine things closely. How different this from the 
 jealous Hindu priest at his shrine! There are numerous 
 bells standing here and there, some so large that a man 
 could easily stand upright in them. In one place I found 
 a large Peepul tree growing round some images, whose 
 heads and arms, &c., were to be seen, apparently growing 
 out from the tree. 
 
 I spent a great part of the day going about the town, 
 which seems to be a most flourishing one— very fine public 
 buildings, very fine streets, steam trams running, very good 
 conveyances, drawn by smart little Burmese ponies, for hire 
 at very reasonable rates. Women go about everywhere 
 with perfect freedom, some of them very prettily dressed. 
 The climate is hot and relaxing, like that of Bombay, but 
 old residents here seem to consider it healthy. The 
 European houses are built on wooden piles ; the streets are 
 large and regular, very wide, and there are lots of good 
 shops. The hotels are not good. There are several 
 English churches — -Church of England (a cathedral), 
 Baptist, Presbyterian, Methodist, &c. 
 
 January 19. Mandalay. I have had a pleasant journey 
 here by train ; it was very hot when we left Rangoon at 
 6 p.m., but by the middle of the night became very cold 
 indeed. Sir Francis and Lady Boileau and party, Admiral 
 Fremantle, and Mr. and Mrs. Dyer, were all passengers by 
 the same train. We arrived at Mandalay at 6 p.m. the 
 next day, when I was met by the Rev. Messrs. Bestall and 
 Thomas of the Wesleyan Mission. The S. P. G. Mission 
 and the American Baptist Mission are also working here. 
 My stay being so exceedingly short, I was unable to visit 
 the Missionaries of either of those Missions, and was obliged 
 to give all my time to the Wesleyans, with whom I had 
 business to transact. Mr. and Mrs. Winston of the 
 Wesleyan Mission are kindly putting me up during my 
 stay. 
 
AN ASYLUM FOR MANDALAY. 
 
 156 
 
 The idea of a Leper Asylum for this place first originated 
 with Mr. Winston, whose heart was stirred by what he saw 
 of the sorrows and sufferings of the poor lepers. He issued 
 an appeal, which met with a very hearty response, and at the 
 same time wrote to the Mission to Lepers asking their help. 
 The committee at once made a grant to Mr. Winston, and 
 gave him a promise of annual support. In a letter to me 
 acknowledging this first grant, Mr. Winston says, “ All parts 
 of Burma swarm with lepers. A Deputy Commissioner a 
 few miles from here, a perfect stranger to me, sends me a 
 contribution of Rs.500, and he says that in enumerating the 
 I households last cold season for taxation, he was astounded 
 to find how very numerous the lepers were, not a single 
 village in his district, great or small, without one or more , 
 generally more. He says it far exceeds the number in the 
 part of India he was familiar with.” Again, in the same 
 letter, Mr. Winston says, “ The number of lepers in Lower 
 Burma in 1881 was over 2,500, and there is every reason to 
 suspect that may only include those who are so far advanced 
 as to be evidently and undeniably leprous. ... It does my 
 heart good to think that we may be instrumental in doing 
 some good to these poor creatures, and I am particularly 
 thankful that the thing seems feasible.” Mr. Winston has 
 been so far successful, that he has procured a nice site for 
 the Asylum, and already has his first building up. As he is 
 just about to leave for England with his family, for a well- 
 earned furlough, he has thought it best to hand over the 
 money in his hands to the Mission to Lepers, and allow the 
 new Asylum to become theirs — the Wesleyan Missionaries 
 to have the superintendence of it. Mr. Bestall, who is 
 taking charge of the Mandalay Mission during Mr. Winston’s 
 absence in England, is entering into the matter of the 
 Asylum with great interest, and will kindly undertake the 
 superintendence of it. I have to day visited the site and 
 seen the first building, which I consider most suitable. The 
 
First Leper Ward, Mandalay, Upper Burma, with group of Lepers in front . — Papes 155 and 156. 
 

 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
OPENING OF MANDALAY ASYLUM. 
 
 157 
 
 place is about half a mile from the Wesleyan Mission 
 premises.* 
 
 Mr. Winston and Mr. Bestall are most kind in taking me 
 about to see everything in Mandalay. Besides the Leper 
 Asylum, I have to-day seen the Queen K’young or 
 Monastery, the Baptist Mission (Judson Memorial) Church, 
 the Wesleyan Mission School, the Incomparable Pagoda, 
 the 700 or more Pali Tables of the Law, all in their own 
 separate little temples, and King Theebaw’s Palace, the last 
 named now turned into offices — the Hall of Audience into 
 a Church — for the British troops. Inside the four square 
 walls, each side of the square being a mile long with a broad 
 ditch or canal of water all the way, now stand the British 
 Lines, with nicely laid out roads and walks all through 
 them. The town of Mandalay lies altogether outside what 
 were the Palace grounds, now the British Cantonments. 
 
 January 20. Mandalay. This has been another very 
 
 interesting day. I have been out with both Mr. Winston 
 and Mr. Bestall, and have visited the native bazaar, the 
 Arakan Pagoda, the Golden K’young, and other places. I 
 only wish I had more time to see this deeply interesting 
 place. The Rev. Mr. Coles, of the C. M. S., from Ceylon, 
 arrived here on a visit to Mr. Winston this evening. 
 
 * Since my visit to Mandalay the Rev. A. H. Bestall writes me, on 
 March 3rd, “I have been silent till I could report a real start in the 
 work of gathering the poor lepers into our Home. I have opened the 
 Home, and the bungalow is now nicely full. I have been down into 
 the haunts, and, with a helper, succeeded in the task. Of course there 
 has been much suspicion, and is ; but without undue pressure we have 
 15 inmates. ... I have never felt so much drawn out in pity 
 towards any of my fellow-creatures as I have been during the last few 
 days towards these woe-begone sufferers. The cases are all bad ; some 
 inexpressibly pitiable. One case is of a very touching nature, a poor 
 old man, without hands and all but blind, is clung to by a little grand- 
 daughter of 9 years of age. She cooks for him and serves him as 
 devotedly as ever maid did father. I am, of course, trying my best to 
 keep her as apart from him as possible.” By April there were thirty 
 in the Home, and now, as we go to press, there are fifty-three. 
 
ARRIVAL AT MAC! MARY. 
 
 15S 
 
 January 22. Maulmain. I left Mandalay yesterday by 
 the 7.30 a.m. train for Rangoon, Mr. Winston and Mr 
 Coles kindly seeing me off at the station. Admiral Fre- 
 mantle was travelling by the same train, and though not in 
 the same carriage, we met at the different refreshment- 
 rooms by the way, and at any station that we remained at 
 for a little time, and so helped each other to pass the other- 
 wise lonely hours. We were travelling all day and all night, 
 and arrived at Rangoon early this morning, where I was 
 just in time to catch the steamship Rampura for Maulmain. 
 I had a very pleasant trip on the steamer, and arrived at 
 4 p.m., the Rev. Mr. Armstrong of the American Baptist 
 Mission meeting me. Mr. Armstrong, whose family are at 
 home at present, is very kindly putting me up during my 
 stay at Maulmain. I had the Rev. Mr. Fairclough, of the 
 S. P. G. Mission, with his family as fellow-passengers, on the 
 steamer to-day. 
 
 On arrival Mr. Armstrong and I walked home to the 
 mission-house, and shortly after went to call on Dr. Ellen 
 Mitchell of the same mission, to consult her relative to the 
 establishment of a leper asylum for this place. We went to 
 a teachers’ preparatory meeting after dinner, when I met 
 Colonel Colin Campbell and other friends. At dinner I met 
 Miss Whitehead, of the American Mission, who is in charge 
 of a large Burmese girls’ school. She has S5 girls, some 
 Christian, some heathen, some boarders, and some day- 
 scholars ; heathen and Christians being in both departments. 
 
 January 23. Maulmain. I was to have started for 
 Amherst last night at 1.30, and had actually gone down to 
 the pier and gone on board my boat and lain down. We 
 were obliged to wait for the turning of the tide, as I was 
 going in an open boat, and we were to have dropped out 
 with the tide, and in that way would have reached Amherst 
 by the morning. I had taken a musquito net with me, and 
 by rolling it round me had managed to drop off to sleep. 
 
THE LADY FROM AMHERST. 
 
 1 59 
 
 Exactly at 1.30 I was awakened by my boatmen saying that 
 the “Mamma” (lady) from Amherst wished to speak to 
 me. As soon as I could shake myself awake I discovered 
 that Miss Haswell, of the American Mission, to see whom I 
 was going to Amherst, was standing on the pier calling to 
 me ! She had arrived from Amherst at one o’clock, on the 
 very tide the turning of which I was waiting for, and on 
 going to the house of her friends she heard that I had gone 
 down to my boat and was to start exactly at 1.30, so she 
 very kindly hurried down to the pier so as to save me a 
 long, tedious journey for nothing. I got on my clothes and 
 then joined Miss Haswell and the friend who had accom- 
 panied her to the pier, and we all walked back together, 
 she to her friend’s house and I to Mr. Armstrong’s. When 
 I reached Mr. Armstrong’s house all the servants had gone 
 away, and he was alone, so I was obliged to awake him and 
 ask him to admit me, much to his astonishment, as he had 
 thought me well on my way to Amherst. I was very glad 
 to get into bed, and to escape the night journey in the boat. 
 
 This is the cold season here, and the thermometer in 
 the house at 3 p.m. is 86. Miss Haswell introduced me 
 to-day to two Burman Christian women who visit and talk 
 to the poor lepers here — the first Burman women who have 
 been able to bring themselves to do this. “ The love of 
 Christ constraineth us.” Miss Haswell herself has for long 
 years visited and helped the lepers in every way in her 
 power. She speaks the language like a native, and is a 
 most earnest and devoted worker. She is beloved by all 
 the poor people about. 
 
 January 24. Maulmain. Last evening I was at a 
 “ Donation Party ” (an American idea) at Miss Whitehead's 
 school. It was a meeting to which the Burmese Christians 
 brought donations, not of money, though money is not 
 excluded, but in kind. Some brought rice, some dried fish, 
 some one thing, some another. All the presents were 
 
THE THOO B’YAZAHS. 
 
 i£o 
 
 brought with a view to help their native pastor, who has a 
 very small salary. This meeting, it appears, takes place 
 once a year, and is a great help to the pastor and his family 
 in their housekeeping. A young- man, the superintendent 
 of the Sunday-school, named Ah Syoo (of Chinese descent), 
 presided with modesty and ease. The gifts were chiefly 
 those of the Sunday-school children : hence the propriety 
 of his presiding. The boys and girls sang, and there were 
 two addresses in Burmese — one by a native, and the other 
 by the Rev. Mr. Stevens, Baptist missionary to the Burmans. 
 I gave a short address at the close, telling of the leper 
 work, and was interpreted by Ah Syoo. He speaks and 
 understands English thoroughly. In the middle of the 
 meeting there was an interval of ten minutes, during which 
 we were allowed to see and examine the presents, and 
 during which sherbet was handed round to all. 
 
 After breakfast to-day a number of poor people, amongst 
 whom were some eight or ten lepers, were assembled to 
 meet me by Miss HaswelL I gave them a short address in 
 English, told them of what we were anxious to do for the 
 lepers of Maulmain, and of what a friend they had in Jesus. 
 I was interpreted by Miss Haswell, and she afterwards 
 addressed them herself. She has a great influence over all 
 these poor people, as she has been a ministering angel 
 amongst them for years. The Thoo b’yazahs whom she 
 brought to day, and who number about 300 in and around 
 Maulmain, are to be found in small communities all over 
 Burma, and are a strange people — they are the Pariahs of 
 Burma. Their history is a strange one as related by 
 themselves. Several generations ago a certain king of 
 Burma pronounced a curse against them. He ordained 
 that they were to be beggars for ever ! and that if ever 
 they were found making their living in any other way, or 
 marrying outside their own community, they were to 
 become lepers. The consequences to the poor people, as 
 
HORRIBLE RITES. 
 
 161 
 
 may be imagined, have been most disastrous. They have 
 some horrible customs amongst them. They are the grave- 
 diggers for the Burmans, and make all the arrangements 
 for the funerals ; and you will always find their wretched 
 little settlements close to a graveyard. It is an understood 
 thing, that after a funeral has taken place they exhume the 
 body, remove it from the coffin, and return it to the grave 
 naked ; they then take the wood of the coffin and the 
 pagoda-like structure in which it is brought to the grave, 
 together with the clothes which were on the corpse, for 
 their own use — they wear the clothes, and they use the 
 wood for building their light huts, and for whatever other 
 thing it may come in useful. Yesterday, when I was out 
 with Mr. Armstrong and Miss Haswell, we visited two of 
 these settlements of Thoo b’yazahs ; but on attempting to 
 go into the second one we were driven back by the awful 
 stench. There were several pieces of coffin, &c., lying 
 about, and we gathered that they must have been quite 
 lately employed at their gruesome work. These wretched 
 outcasts always give an asylum to lepers in their villages, 
 and you will always find lepers amongst them. The Thoo 
 b’yazahs may be said to live in graveyards, to be housed in 
 coffins, clothed in grave-clothes, and to live by dishonouring 
 the dead. 
 
 The Burmans have a horrible way of conducting their 
 funerals. They seem to act as if they thought it quite a 
 good thing to have a funeral. They will race along with 
 the poor body, laughing, joking, smoking, and chatting; 
 and if two funerals happen to be going in the same 
 direction at the same time, they will race to see who can 
 arrive first. Let us hope that the relatives are not present. 
 The bodies of punghis (priests) and some others are burned, 
 as a mark of special honour. Even then, too, the Thoo 
 b’yazahs make all arrangements for the funeral, and get for 
 themselves all that belongs to the corpse. 
 
 M 
 
NECESSITY FOE AN ASYLUM. 
 
 162 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 MAULMAIN, RANGOON, CALCUTTA. 
 
 Maulmain. Dr. Ellen Mitchell, Miss Haswell, Mr. 
 Armstrong, and I, have been out for about two hours in 
 quest of a site for the proposed Leper Asylum. There is 
 considerable difficulty attending the matter, as there is a 
 strong prejudice in this place, both among Europeans and 
 natives, against having an asylum ; at least they wish it to 
 be so far away that it would be impossible to supervise it. 
 The strangely illogical part of the business is, that as things 
 are at present the lepers are right in their midst, coming 
 and going as they wish, begging by the way, begging in 
 the streets, begging at the Pagodas, and begging at private 
 houses. 
 
 In the evening Mr. Armstrong and I dined with Mrs. 
 Bulkley at the Karen Mission House, and met Dr. Ellen 
 Mitchell, Miss Carr (her assistant just out from home), and 
 Mrs. Ellwell, the widow of a missionary, who, with Miss 
 Taylor, is in charge of the Karentown School. The Rev. 
 Mr. Bulkley, the missionary to the Karens, is at present 
 away on tour in the Bankok direction. He is sometimes 
 away for three months at a time in the cool season. 
 
 The American Baptist Missionary Union occupies the 
 Maulmain field in force; and yet it seems mere irony to 
 use the expression, for “ what are they among so many ? ” 
 The missionaries are as follows : 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Stevens, Burman work. 
 
 Miss Whitehead, Burman Girls’ School. 
 
A Karen Maiden . — Page 1G2. 
 
THE KARENS. 
 
 16 
 
 Miss Barrows, Burman Boys’ School. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Bulkley, Karen work. 
 
 Mrs. Ellwell, Karen Boys’ and Girls’ School. 
 
 Miss Taylor „ „ „ 
 
 Mr. Armstrong, English, Telugu, and Tamil work. 
 
 Dr. Ellen Mitchell, Medical Mission. 
 
 Miss Carr, Miss Mitchell’s Assistant. 
 
 Miss Slater, Eurasian Girls’ School. 
 
 Miss Haswell, Amherst-Burman work. 
 
 And this leaves the Takings, , the Toungthoos, the 
 Chinese (numerous), and Hindustani-speaking people 
 untouched. Mission work amongst the Burmans pure 
 and simple (Buddhists) has been slow ; but amongst 
 Karens, a simple jangal folk, success has been very great 
 indeed. It is the same all over India wherever one goes. 
 The Santals, Kols, Karens, &c., these are the simple folk 
 whom God is raising up for Himself. They who were not 
 a people are now to be the people of God. God’s way, 
 from the lowest stratum upwards. 
 
 The work amongst the Karens of Burma is of such a 
 marvellous character that I know I shall be forgiven for 
 quoting here at some length extracts from the Eticyclopcedia 
 of Missions , just published (Funk and YVagnalls). 
 
 “The Karens, of whom there are fifteen or twenty tribes 
 more or less closely connected, are the peasant population of 
 Burma. They are divided into three classes : I. The Lowland 
 tribes. These are agriculturists, fishermen, and labourers. They 
 are greatly oppressed and cruelly treated by the Burmans, 
 the ruling class. 2. The Central or Highland tribes. 3. The 
 Hill or Mountain tribes. All of these tribes are supposed to be 
 of the Aryan stock. They were not idolaters, had some ideas 
 of a Supreme Being, and of a divine Redeemer who would 
 save them from sin and sorrow. They made offerings to evil 
 spirits, demons, nats or devs, from motives of fear, but had no 
 temples, shrines, or idols. They had traditions of the creation, 
 flood, and other incidents recorded in Genesis, like other 
 northern Asiatics.” 
 
164 
 
 KO- THAH-B YU. 
 
 Mr. Smeaton (B. C. S.), in his book The Loyal Karens of 
 Burma, says — 
 
 “ Swartz had laboured half a century to destroy the 300,000 
 (333,000,000 ?) gods of India without hearing of the nation that 
 had rejected them from the remotest ages. Carey had made 
 his forty versions without a line for the people that were 
 longing with hope deferred for the word of God. And Judson 
 had lived seven years in Rangoon, preaching the eternal God, 
 before a single Burman would admit His existence ; while 
 the poor unnoticed Karens were continually passing his door, 
 singing by the way — 
 
 ‘ God is eternal, His life is long — 
 
 God is immortal, His life is long : 
 
 One cycle He dies not. 
 
 Two cycles He dies not, 
 
 Perfect in great attributes, 
 
 Age on age He dies not.’ ” 
 
 We quote again from the Encyclopedia : 
 
 “The first mission to the Karens was founded in 1828 in 
 Tavoy, capital of the province of the same name, by the Rev. 
 George Dana Boardman and his wife, missionaries of the 
 American Baptist Board. Mr. Boardman left Maulmain March 
 29th, 1828, accompanied by Ko-Thah-Byu, the first Karen 
 convert, whom he baptised on May 16th. This remarkable 
 man had been a robber and a murderer. His natural temper 
 was diabolical. After the Burmese war, while in the service 
 of Mr. Hough, in Rangoon, he gave evidence of true con- 
 version, and became remarkably efficient and successful as a 
 preacher to his countrymen. One who knew him well says, 
 4 He was always planning some new preaching excursion, and 
 was never so happy as when he found individuals to whom he 
 might preach from morning till evening.’ He is called the 
 Karen Apostle. As the result of his indefatigable labours, 
 many of the Karens of the villages scattered over the mountains 
 of Tavoy flocked in from the distant jangals to see the White 
 Teacher who had come from beyond the sea, and to listen to 
 the truths he taught. Mr. Boardman resolved to visit the 
 Karens in the jangal ; and he set out on his first tour accom- 
 
THE FLOWER OF THE KAREN MISSIONS. 165 
 
 panied by Ko-Thah-Byu and another Karen, a professed 
 believer in Christ. Mr. Boardman soon found the Karens 
 more ready to receive the gospel than the Burmans ; and 
 through his labours and those of his wife and assistants the 
 first Karen Church was formed in Tavoy in 1830. From its 
 commencement in Tavoy the good work extended to Mergui, 
 capital of the south Tenasserim province, in 1831 ; to Maulmain 
 in 1831-1832; to Rangoon and Maubee in 1833 (though no 
 churches were founded till 1834) ; to Bassein in 1836 (though 
 there were no baptisms till 1838). 
 
 “ The Rangoon and Maubee Missions may be considered 
 together. For nearly twenty years persecution raged almost 
 constantly. The Karen Churches were scattered, but gathered 
 again. From January to July, 1846, 1000 Karens were added 
 to these missions ; but in 1847 they were driven out of the 
 region by the Burmese Governor. In 1852 Rangoon was 
 captured by the British, and though pestilence and famine 
 followed war, the Rangoon Mission has prospered ever since. 
 It has now the Karen Theological Seminary for young Karen 
 preachers ; the Rangoon Baptist College for younger pupils, 
 Burman and Karen. Both of these are partially supported by 
 the Karen Churches of Burma and partly by the Missionary 
 Union. It has also a Girls’ High School, a Eurasian School, 
 an English Church, the large Mission Press, the Burma Bible 
 and Tract Society, 80 Karen Churches with 4434 members, 
 and 51 schools with 1622 pupils. Both churches and schools 
 are nearly all self-supporting. 
 
 The Bassein Sgau Karen Mission is the crowning glory, and 
 most perfect flower of the Karen Missions of Burma. Begun in 
 1837 by the preaching of Mr. Abbott, who spent but five or six 
 days there, the good work went on entirely through the labour 
 of native converts and the circulation of books and tracts in 
 Karen and Burman, till in 1839 more than 2,000 were converted, 
 though only one had been baptised. The fires of persecution 
 raged fiercely ; the converts were beaten, chained, fined, 
 imprisoned, sold as slaves, tortured, and put to death ; but not 
 one apostatised. Mr. Abbott and the other missionaries were 
 forbidden to enter Bassein under pain of death, and in 1840 he 
 removed to Sandoway, Arakan — British territory, separated from 
 Bassein by the Yoma range of mountains ; and from there he 
 and his associates managed the Karen Mission for 13 years. 
 
■AX AD HER EXT POPULATIOX OF 200,000." 
 
 i65 “ 
 
 In 1S52-53 the missionaries and the Sandoway Mission were 
 transferred to Bassein. About 20 churches and 2.000 members 
 went from Arakan, and in all there were 5S churches, about 
 6,100 members, and nearly 5,000 converts not yet baptised. 
 More than 5.000 had passed away from Burmese cruelties, 
 cholera, and other pestilences, famine and exposure on the 
 mountains. The whole number of converts up to that time had 
 been about 16,000. Their course from that time on has been one 
 of steady progress. In 1 S54 the churches became self-supporting, 
 and missionary efforts for the heathen around them by the 
 native evangelists were commenced ; village schools were 
 established, and a town High School commenced under 
 Mr. Beecher’s efforts. The spiritual condition was improved ; 
 in 1S66 all the schools were supported by the churches. 
 Mr. Abbot died in 1S54, and Mr. Beecher in 1866. In 1868 
 Mr. Carpenter took charge, and while constantly striving for 
 their spiritual growth, he pushed forward educational measures 
 and a thorough system of schools, culminating in the Ko-Thah- 
 Byu Memorial Hall, till in twelve years this people, steeped to 
 the lips in poverty, expended in the building, supporting and 
 endowing of schools, $135,000, besides building their chapels, 
 supporting their pastors, their tallage schools, and their native 
 missionaries ; and in 1S75 and 1 877 sent Rs.iooo to the sufferers 
 from famine in Toungoo, and to the perishing Telugus. Since 
 1880, under Mr. Nichols, they have continued to advance. 
 They have endowed their High School, the best in all Burma," 
 with about $50,000 ; they have about 425 students of both sexes, 
 a fine printing office, and an extensive saw mill and machine 
 shop. Both board and tuition are free to those who can pass 
 the examination. They have enlarged their great Memorial 
 Hall, and built and endowed a hospital. The discipline of the 
 churches is strict ; their pastors are well and thoroughly trained : 
 their benevolence is maintained on a system which reaches 
 every member ; and in their dress, furniture, domestic life, and 
 social condition, they compare favourably with the country 
 churches in the United States. There are now 89 churches, 
 and nearly 10,000 members, with an adherent population in 
 their 85 Christian villages of about 50,000 souls. 
 
 There are in all Burma about 480 Karen churches ; with 
 about 28,200 members ; and an adherent population of 200,000. 
 
BURMESE CUSTOMS. 
 
 167 
 
 January 25. Sunday. Maulmain. Went with Miss 
 Whitehead to the Burman service conducted by the native 
 pastor, our friend of the donation party, but I did not 
 remain for the whole service, as I was unable to understand 
 a word. While the collection was being taken two Burmans 
 sang very nicely a Burman translation of one of Sankey’s 
 hymns, accompanied on the organ by Miss Whitehead. 
 Jonathan, my native servant, and I, had a service of our own 
 in Hindi, in the afternoon, and in the evening I had the 
 privilege of conducting service and preaching in English in 
 the Baptist Chapel. 
 
 I have been thinking how difficult it must be to carry 
 on mission work here ; there are Burmans, Karens, Kalahs 
 (natives of India, speaking Tamil, Telugu, Hindustani, &c.), 
 and Chinese. The Chinese and Burmans are very much alike, 
 and often intermarry. Chinese are said to make very good 
 husbands and are much sought after by Burman women, 
 and the offspring of these Chino-Burmese marriages as a 
 rule turn out very well. A Burman woman has absolute 
 freedom, and always carries the purse : if her husband wants 
 money he must ask for it ! Indeed most of the business is 
 carried on by women. And yet a Burman will beat his wife 
 if she displeases him. I have heard that it is a rare thing 
 when a Burman husband does not occasionally beat his wife. 
 Men and women dress very much alike, but in Upper Burma 
 the women’s skirts are open down one side, while the men’s 
 are not. Christian women do not wear the open skirt. 
 Men usually wear a turban of some sort, which the women 
 do not ; the latter are very fond of wearing a flower in their 
 hair, which they arrange with great taste. All who can 
 afford it, men and women, wear silk. Everyone smokes, 
 men, women, and children. The cheroots, which are filled 
 with chopped wood and tobacco, and occasionally a little 
 raw sugar, are immense. I have in my possession two 
 Burmese cheroots, one measuring 14! inches long by 4 in 
 
i6S 
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 
 
 circumference, and the other 12 inches long by 2 1 - in cir- 
 cumference ! “ One of these cheroots, once lit, frequently 
 
 passes round the entire family circle, not forgetting even 
 the smallest members of it” 
 
 Burma is a nation of priests; every man must enter a 
 monaster)^, if even only for a short time ; when they take 
 the vow for life they then don the yellow robe. Nuns, of 
 whom there are many, dress in white. 
 
 My first impressions of Burma — perhaps somewhat con- 
 fused, and in some instances incorrect — are as follows : 
 Beautiful scenery, mountains, large forests, abundance of 
 rich and varied foliage. Good-looking women and beardless 
 men. Colours worn by the Burmese very pretty, and a 
 Burmese crowd the prettiest in the world. Everyone who 
 can afford it dresses in silk. Pagodas and K’youngs 
 (monasteries) without number, many of them richly gilt and 
 exquisitely carved. Millions of images of Gautama. Num- 
 berless shaven priests (punghis) dressed in orange colour, 
 and nuns dressed in white (?). Gilt domes, umbrellas, 
 gongs and bells, enormous cheroots and marvellous hats. 
 Splendid elephants and smart little ponies ; abominable 
 dogs. 
 
 The people I seem to have heard about are Burmans, 
 Karens, Chins, Shans, Takings, Toungthoos, Chinese, and 
 several races from India, besides some mixed races. 
 
 Lepers seem to be on ever)" hand, coming and going as 
 they will, making their living by begging. 
 
 My impressions of the character of the Burmese are that 
 they are generally genial and affable, polite, merry, and 
 lighthearted ; a most agreeable people to converse with. 
 Independent and improvident : extremely religious but not 
 over truthful ; somewhat lax in morals. Cruel and heartless 
 in disposition. They make bad servants, do not care to 
 work, and cannot be got to realise responsibility. They 
 have no caste, and do not mind Europeans touching their 
 
A MISSIONARY PRAYER-MEETING. 
 
 169 
 
 food or their images, or going into the most sacred precints 
 of their temples. 
 
 January 26. Mauhnain. After chhoti hazri Mr. Arm- 
 strong and I went out and called upon Mr. and Mrs. 
 Stevens and Miss Barrows. Mr. Stevens showed me 
 some interesting relics of Judson. The tree planted by the 
 good man’s own hand, the place where his house once 
 stood, &c. I was introduced to an old Bible-woman who 
 was baptised by Judson, and is still at work as a Bible- 
 woman. We then drove over to the Karen school for boys 
 and girls, where I met Mrs. Ellwell and Miss Taylor. The 
 Karens sing remarkably well in parts, reminding me a good 
 deal of the Kols of Chota Nagpore. I spoke a few words 
 to the boys and girls through an interpreter. We next 
 called upon Mr. Becker, English chaplain, and afterwards 
 drove to one of the saw-mills to see the elephants at work. 
 In the evening there was an earnest missionary prayer- 
 meeting, which was conducted by Mr. Armstrong, and was 
 attended by nearly all the missionaries. This was a most 
 delightful close to a very delightful visit. I cannot easily 
 forget all the kindness I have received at the hands of these 
 good American missionaries. 
 
 Dr. Ellen Mitchell has kindly consented to take up the 
 cause of the poor lepers, and Miss Haswell will help her; 
 and so I hope that ere long we shall have some good work 
 going on for them in Maulmain. 
 
 January 27. Tuesday. I left Maulmain by the S.S. 
 Rastnara at 7 this morning, Mr. Stevens and Mr. 
 Armstrong kindly seeing me off. We had a good run 
 down, and arrived at Rangoon at 3 p.m., when I was met 
 by Mr. Vinton, son of Mrs. Vinton, a missionary’s widow, 
 who is still at work here. She was a Miss Haswell, and is 
 sister to Miss Haswell of Amherst. Mr. Vinton drove me 
 to the house of Mr. and Mrs. McCall, with whom I spent 
 a very pleasant evening. Mr. McCall is an Ayrshire 
 
I 7° 
 
 AGED AND HONOURED WORKERS. 
 
 gentleman, who has been many years in business in 
 Rangoon. I had the honour of being introduced to Mr. 
 Brayton, the “ father ” of the Karen Mission here, who 
 has been 53 years in the mission field, and to Mrs. Bennett, 
 the “ mother ” of the Burman and Karen Missions, who 
 has been 61 years in the mission field. The former is over 
 So years of age, and the latter over 83, and both are yet 
 doing work ! I felt it a great privilege to meet these 
 aged servants of the Lord. Mrs. Bennett is noted for her 
 accurate knowledge of the Burman and Karen languages, 
 and at one time had the translating of many Government 
 documents . * At 10 o’clock Mr. McCall kindly drove me 
 down to my steamer, the Canara, and I went on board for 
 Calcutta. 
 
 January 31. Saturday. Calcutta. We arrived in the 
 Hoogly to-day, after a very good trip from Rangoon. On 
 Wednesday morning, when I came up on deck, almost the 
 first person I met was the Rev. Mr. Coles, of the C. M. S., 
 whom I had met at Mandalay. I was very pleased to see 
 him, and he and I had much very pleasant communion 
 together during the voyage. Every day I went to his 
 cabin, and we read the Bible together and had a little 
 prayer. There were very few passengers on board. We 
 arrived off Diamond Harbour this morning about 10.30, 
 and got the opportunity of going on shore in an open boat 
 with the mails if we wished to do so. Mr. Coles and I 
 were the only passengers who availed ourselves of it ; and 
 very glad we are that we did so, as the steamer is not at all 
 likely to get up the river before to-morrow. On arrival at 
 the Sealdah station this afternoon, I drove first to call upon 
 Mr. and Mrs. Hall, of the C. M. S., at 33, Amherst Street ; 
 and from there drove on to the General Assembly’s 
 Institution, where I am again the guest of my kind friends, 
 
 This honoured worker was called to her rest Sept. 30, 1S91. 
 
THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND IN CALCUTTA. 171 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Edwards, of the Church of Scotland. The 
 other missionaries here at present engaged in the work of 
 the Institution are the Rev. Mr. Morrison, the Principal ; 
 and the Rev. Messrs. Wann and Lamb. Messrs. Edwards, 
 Wann, and Lamb are all professors. Besides the work at 
 the Institution, all the four missionaries have some form of 
 evangelistic work on the Sundays. Mr. Edwards looks 
 after the work at Mattiabrooz, where during the past year 
 there have been four adult baptisms. At Shamnuggur, 
 where Mr. Wann is in charge, there have also been four 
 baptisms ; and at Budge-Budge, where Mr. Morrison takes 
 charge, there has been one baptism. Mr. Lamb takes charge 
 of the Sunday-school, and a Bible-class at the Institution 
 on Sundays ; and there is always an evangelistic service 
 for English-speaking natives at the Institution on Sunday 
 evenings. The evangelistic service is not confined to the 
 Church of Scotland missionaries, but is addressed by 
 members of other churches as well — sometimes laymen. 
 
172 
 
 THE LEPER ASYLUM, CALCUTTA. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 CALCUTTA, BURDWAN, RANLGUNJ, ASANSOL, 
 AMD BHANDARA. 
 
 February 6. Friday. Calcutta. I have spent a most 
 pleasant week in this very interesting city, and am leaving 
 to-night for Burdwan. To describe all the Missions of this 
 place would be a Herculean task, and I shall therefore not 
 attempt it, but just content myself with saying that nearly 
 all the well-known large societies are hard at work, and 
 that higher education receives a large share of attention, as 
 is also the case in Bombay and Madras ; and yet of visible 
 results, so far as one can learn, there are not many to be 
 seen ; the indirect results are known alone to Him for whose 
 sake the work is carried on. On Sunday morning I paid a 
 somewhat lengthened visit to the Leper Asylum in Amherst 
 Street, where the Mission to Lepers employs a catechist 
 under the superintendence of the Rev. J. W. Hall of the 
 C.M.S. There are at present 106 inmates, of whom 76 are 
 men and 30 are women. Of the whole there are 50 Hindus, 
 32 Mahommedans, 15 native Christians, 8 European 
 Christians (principally Eurasians), and 1 Jewess. I had a 
 very interesting time with some of the Christians, and left 
 promising to go and see them again. In the forenoon I 
 went to St. Andrew’s Kirk with Mrs. Edwards, and in the 
 evening preached to English-speaking natives in the General 
 Assembly’s Institution from the text, “What good thing shall 
 I do that I may inherit eternal life?” There was a good 
 attendance, and I was listened to with close attention. 
 
AN ADDRESS TO THE LEPERS. 
 
 173 
 
 On Tuesday morning I went to the Leper Asylum, where 
 I was joined by the Rev. J. W. Hall and the Rev. Mr. Coles; 
 we visited several of the wards and conversed with the 
 inmates, after which Mr. Coles gave an address in the little 
 chapel, in English ; he spoke from John xiii. on love. 
 
 A great part of the week has been taken up with visiting 
 the different missionaries of several different Societies. On 
 one evening I had the pleasure of dining with Mr. and 
 Mrs. Telfer of the Free Church Mission, and on another 
 with Mr. and Mrs. Morrison of the Church of Scotland, and 
 at both houses met with many missionaries. 
 
 Yesterday morning the Rev. Mr. Hector of the Free 
 Church accompanied me to the Leper Asylum, where we 
 met Mr. Hall. After we had been there for a little, some 
 Hindustani-speaking Christians and others assembled in the 
 little chapel, and I gave a short address in Hindustani on 
 rest. I was to have spoken in English, but by special desire I 
 had to change to Hindustani. Mr. Hall has for a long time 
 taken a great interest in the Leper question, and in August, 
 1889, brought the matter before the Calcutta Missionary 
 Conference in a very able paper, which afterwards appeared 
 in the Indian Evangelical Review for October of that year. 
 
 On the same day I called on Mr. Stuntz, the editor of 
 the Indian Witness , and drove back with him to the 
 General Assembly’s Institution, where we heard a very 
 eloquent lecture from Mr. Ram Chandar Bhose, a native 
 Christian gentleman from the North-West Provinces. He 
 had a good audience of the young men and boys of the 
 college. His subject was “True Happiness”; and he 
 spoke in English, which he has thoroughly mastered. 
 
 I was to have dined with Dr. and Mrs. Macdonald last 
 evening, but was down with an attack of fever — the only 
 one I have had this trip. 
 
 This morning I still had a little of the fever about me, 
 but was able to keep an engagement with Miss Neill and 
 
i"4 
 
 THE OXL Y HOPE FOR THE LEPER. 
 
 Miss Sampson, and address their Christian girls. They 
 have a large boarding-school for native Christian girls very 
 much on the lines of the Alexandra School in Amritsar. I 
 breakfasted with the ladies and the girls afterwards. 
 
 This evening I addressed a meeting in the Old Mission 
 Room, C. M. S., on the Leper Mission. Archdeacon 
 Mitchell kindly took the chair ; but the meeting was very 
 small. Mr. Hall tells me that there is now quite a reaction 
 on the leper question. A short while ago many would 
 have come to such a meeting — it was then fashionable — 
 but now the very fact of its being about lepers would keep 
 people away. In olden times the feelings regarding the 
 leper went up and down in the same- way. At one time 
 there would be the bitterest hostility manifested towards 
 him, and at another a queen would wash his feet Mere 
 sentiment will not do in a work like that of ministering to 
 the lepers. The love of Christ must constrain: and people 
 | have got to learn that the only hope for the leper is in the 
 Gospel of Jesus Christ. 
 
 February 7. Saturday. Burdwan. I arrived here a 
 little after 1 1 o’clock last night, and drove straight to the 
 Zenana Mission House, where I found Miss Mulvany 
 kindly waiting up for me. After supper I retired for the 
 night to a tent which had been provided for me, as Miss 
 Mulvany’s house was full. The weather has suddenly 
 changed, and has become very cold. It had been very 
 warm for a few days in Calcutta. I have been going about 
 with an overcoat on all the morning. 
 
 After breakfast Miss Mulvany and I drove out to call 
 upon the Chairman of the Municipality, Rai Noli Naksha 
 Basu Bahadur, to enquire about a site for a Leper Asylum. 
 We also visited the Raja’s palace, which is very handsomely 
 furnished in English style ; it is quite worth a visit. 
 
 In the afternoon Miss Mulvany, Miss Edwards, and I 
 drove out with Rai Noli Naksha Bahadur to see some 
 
A CHURCH FRAGRANT WITH MEMORIES. 175 
 
 possible sites. We found a fairly suitable one over the rail- 
 way line, but, query, shall we get it ? If we could start a 
 small asylum here— and there seems to be great need of it — 
 Miss Mulvany would kindly undertake the superintendence 
 of it. On our way home we called on Mr. and Mrs. Brown 
 of the C.M.S., whom I met at Bhagulpore. Mr. Brown is 
 no better of his fever, and has to return home immediately. 
 
 The ladies working with Miss Mulvany, who has been 
 here as a Zenana Missionary for many years, are Miss 
 Cowley, Miss Valpy, and Miss Edwards. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Sandys, from Krishnaggar, is expected here 
 to-morrow to conduct services. 
 
 February 8. Sunday. Burdwan. A bright, happy 
 Sunday, thank God. Mr. Sandys arrived late last night. 
 He conducted an English service at the Railway Station 
 at 9 o’clock this morning. After breakfast I gave a Bible- 
 reading in the drawing-room at the Zenana Mission House ; 
 and in the evening Mr. Sandys conducted service and 
 preached at the old Mission Church. It is a fine old 
 memorial church; and it, the Mission House, and com- 
 pound are all fragrant with the memory of Weitbrecht and 
 others. Now the church, with its many interesting monu- 
 ments, is to be demolished, and the house and compound 
 have been sold. There are a few native Christians living 
 near the church still. One wonders what will become of 
 these now. The church is said to be too far away from 
 that part of the station where the bulk of the people live ; 
 but still one cannot see a fine old church, fragrant with 
 such memories, doomed to destruction without a pang, and 
 without wondering, Is it justifiable? 
 
 In the evening it was cold enough to have a fire ; and 
 we all, Mr. Sandys included, gathered round, and had a 
 most enjoyable time singing hymns. 
 
 February 9. Monday. Burdwan , Fatiigunj, and Asansol. 
 I addressed Miss Mulvany’s workers before breakfast, and 
 
1 76 
 
 RANIGUNJ. 
 
 after breakfast had a short time of prayer with the ladies, 
 and then left for Ranigunj, where I arrived at 12.45, an d 
 was met by the Rev. Mr. Smith, of the Wesleyan Mission, 
 and the Rev. Mr. Byers, my friend from Asansol, who 
 had kindly come down to Ranigunj on purpose to 
 meet me. I spent a very' pleasant day with Mr. Smith, 
 and was glad to find him eager to do something for 
 the lepers of this place. He has been wishing to do 
 something for some time past, but had never heard of the 
 Leper Mission before. Mr. Smith kindly drove me out, 
 and we visited the Pottery Works and the Bazaar, and 
 called at the houses of some of the native Christians. 
 We then called on Mr. Bailey Wells, General Manager of 
 the Bengal Coal Company, to ask him if he would try- and 
 secure us a site for a Leper Asylum. Ranigunj is the 
 centre of the Bengal coal industry, and nearly all the land 
 about here belongs to the Bengal Coal Company. Mr. 
 Wells we found at the club playing tennis, and after the 
 game was over we had a talk with him. He told us that 
 he did not anticipate any difficulty whatever, but that I 
 was to send in a formal application for a site. This I did 
 before leaving the Wesleyan Mission House. There are 
 said to be very many lepers in this region. One man 
 to-day told us that there were 60 in the town of Ranigunj 
 itself. Another estimated them at between 100 and 200. 
 There is evidently much uncertainty in the matter, but it is 
 easy to see that there must be very many. Two came 
 to see me to-day; and one of them, when asked if he 
 would avail himself of an asylum, smiled with joy and 
 said, “ Gladly.” Poor fellow, I should think he would ! 
 
 I had not intended to have included Ranigunj in my 
 route, but somehow the Lord seems to have led me here ; 
 and so I believe He has purposes of great mercy for the 
 poor lepers of this district. 
 
 February 10. Asansol. Mr. Byers and I left Ranigunj 
 
A SITE SECURED. 
 
 17 7 
 
 last night by the 10 p.m. train, and arrived here in about 
 half-an-hour ; it is the next station. Since I was last here 
 Mr. Byers has succeeded in securing a very suitable site for 
 our new leper asylum. I have just been over to see it. We 
 shall be obliged to take it on perpetual lease at a rent of 
 about £ 6 per annum ; there seems to be no other way of 
 securing land here; we cannot buy it out-and-out. This 
 site is a long narrow strip of land with some rising ground, 
 and some fields suitable for cultivation ; it lies beyond both 
 lines of railway at the opposite side from the inhabited 
 part of the station, and while easy of access, is yet well 
 away from all dwellings. There is a nice stream of water 
 near by. The only drawback is the want of trees ; but Mr. 
 Byers will have some planted immediately, and we shall 
 have good verandahs on all the houses. A great advantage 
 of the place is its length ; we shall be able to have the 
 men’s quarters at one end, and the women’s at the other. 
 
 I said good-bye to my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Byers 
 at 10 p.m., and went to the railway station, where I had 
 to wait for my train till midnight. 
 
 February n. All day in the train. I left Asansol at 
 one this morning and reached Allahabad at 3.30 p.m. 
 At Nynee, the last station before Allahabad, I got out of 
 my carriage to change into a through carriage for the 
 Jubbulpore line, so that I might have no trouble in 
 getting to Allahabad, which is a very crowded place, and 
 where there is generally a good deal of rush and excite- 
 ment. Jonathan, my servant, who was in another carriage, 
 seeing me getting out and thinking I was going to remain 
 there, also got out, and before he realised the situation 
 the train was away and he was left behind. I did not 
 know of it till we had reached Allahabad. I saw at once 
 how the mistake had occurred, and as I knew my train to 
 Jubbulpore had to go back as far as Nynee before turning 
 off from the Calcutta line I felt sure I should pick him up 
 
 N 
 
i?8 
 
 LIKE HERRINGS IX A BARREL ! 
 
 again. When we reached Xynee the second time I found 
 the whole of the station platform literally blocked with 
 pilgrims, and had some difficulty in picking out Jonathan. 
 I saw at a glance that it was utterly hopeless to get him 
 a place in any of the carriages for natives, and that at 
 least two -thirds of those on the platform must be left 
 behind, so I jumped out of my own carriage, and pushing 
 my way with some difficulty through the crowd to where I 
 knew Jonathan was, I seized him by the hand, and dragged 
 him along with myself till we reached my own carriage and 
 took him in with me. I kept him there for a few stations 
 until we got rid of some of the pilgrims, and then he got a 
 seat in a compartment for natives. Europeans in India 
 nearly always travel first or second class — I was travelling 
 second — and the third is almost entirely given up to natives. 
 But now many natives who can afford to do so travel first 
 and second class ; still the bulk of the native traffic is in the 
 third class, and the natives are often packed into the car- 
 riages like herrings in a barrel ! One’s blood sometimes 
 boils to see the rough way in which poor villagers are 
 treated at the railway stations by underling officials. I 
 remember once travelling in a third-class carriage with 
 natives — it was in the middle of the night — and I distinctly 
 heard a slap at the other end of our long carriage. The 
 ticket collector was taking the tickets at the time, and 
 immediately after the sound of the slap I heard a native 
 exclaim indignantly, “ Dekho ! tappar marta hai ! ” (See ! 
 he hits him !) On some of the lines there are a few 
 “ intermediate ” (a class between second and third) and 
 third-class carriages reserved for Europeans, but not many 
 Europeans avail themselves of them. 
 
 February 12. Another day in the train. We reached 
 Jubbulpore at about 5 this morning, having been in the 
 train all night, the second from Asansol, and are having a 
 delightfully cool day, as there has been rain lately; to-day 
 
POOR JONATHAN l 
 
 179 
 
 there have been clouds about, with a little thunder and 
 lightning, and there has been one heavy shower. About 
 8 o’clock this morning, at one of the small stations I got out 
 and walked along the train to speak to Jonathan, and see 
 how he was getting on, when to my dismay I found he was 
 not in the train ! I had again lost him ! An old man, who 
 had been travelling in the same carriage with him, told me 
 that at Jubbulpore, in the early morning, all the third class 
 passengers had been taken out of the train, and other 
 carriages had been put on instead of those in which they 
 had been travelling, and that when Jonathan tried to get 
 back into the train, an over officious official had told him 
 that he must go on by a later train. Poor Jonathan remon- 
 strated, but was roughly shoved on one side, and the train 
 was despatched, leaving him a second time behind. He 
 told the official that he was travelling with his master, who 
 was just then asleep in a second class carriage ; but all to no 
 purpose, he would not be listened to, and the train was 
 away before he could come and acquaint me with what had 
 happened. Had he been an old hand at travelling, I fancy 
 he would have got in somehow, but he had never been in a 
 train till I put him into one last month when we left Purulia 
 together. I must acknowledge to having felt very much 
 annoyed, for I could see clearly that the whole thing had 
 been just a bit of over-officiousness on the part of someone. 
 I wired immediately to Jubbulpore, and at Bhusawal, where 
 we stopped for dinner, I left full instructions with the officials 
 what to do with him when he should arrive in the slow 
 train later on. At Bhusawal I found a good Methodist 
 brother giving out tracts to everyone who would have them. 
 He was a Mr. Elsam, on his way to take up mission work at 
 Kamptee, to which place he had just been transferred. 
 
 February 13. Bhandara, C.P. I left Bhusawal last 
 evening at 8.10, and at 7 this morning reached Nagpore, 
 where I had to change to the new line which is to connect 
 
BHANDARA. 
 
 i So 
 
 Calcutta more directly with Bombay, and thus save many 
 hours in the journey between the two places. The line 
 indeed is complete, but not yet open all the way for 
 passenger traffic ; had it been so I should have been 
 saved an immense round in coming here. I had nearly 
 an hour’s wait at Nagpore, so I had time to go over to 
 a hotel which stands opposite the railway station (there 
 is no refreshment-room, which seems strange for such 
 an important place) and have my chhotf hazrf. I left 
 Nagpore at 8 o’clock, and arrived at Bhandara Road Station 
 at 10.48, where I was kindly met by Drs. Sandilands and 
 Revie, both medical missionaries of the Free Church of 
 Scotland Mission. I have thus been from 1 a.m. on 
 Wednesday morning (when I left Asansol) till 10.48 to-day 
 (Friday), altogether about 58 hours, in the train, and yet 
 I am wonderfully little tired. 
 
 Dr. Sandilands is stationed at the town of Bhandara, 
 about seven miles from the Bhandara Road Station ; and 
 Dr. and Mrs. Revie, who are on a visit here for a few days’ 
 change, are stationed at Warda, which is on the other side 
 of Nagpore. Nagpore is the central station of the Free 
 Church Mission in these parts. It is a large city of 98,299 
 inhabitants — a very mixed population, comprising “ Moham- 
 medans, Hindoos, Christians, Jains, Kabirpanthis, Satnamis, 
 Parsis, Brahmos, Buddhists, and Jews. The Free Church 
 has four missionaries at work there, 10 native helpers, 3 out 
 stations, 3 churches, 15 schools, and 1017 scholars.” The 
 Methodist Mission has also got work going on at Nagpore. 
 
 Dr. Sandilands had a very comfortable bullock tonga to 
 meet me, and as the road was good, and the bullocks trotted 
 along merrily, we were not long in reaching Bhandara. It 
 is an exceptionally clean native town, and the station all 
 about is very pretty. The trees are very fine, especially 
 those around the Mission Bungalow. In the evening I 
 drove out with Drs. Revie and Sandilands, and Mr. Rango 
 
MR. RANGO HARRPS KINDNESS. 
 
 181 
 
 Harri, Secretary to the Municipal Committee, and a pleader. 
 Mr. Harri is a well-known and highly-respected native 
 Christian gentleman. Dr. Sandilands is very much inter- 
 ested in the lepers, and is anxious to establish an Asylum 
 for them. The Mission to Lepers has promised him a 
 grant for building, and an annual grant for maintenance, 
 but the difficulty that prevents our going on at once with 
 the work is the often recurring one of the site. Our object 
 in going out was to inspect a proposed site on the other side 
 of the river, which Mr. Harri, who is much interested in the 
 project, has kindly offered as a gift to the Leper Mission. 
 After seeing the place we all came to the conclusion that its 
 being beyond the river, while an advantage in some ways, 
 would be dreadfully against the proper supervision of the 
 institution, as in the rainy season, when the river would be 
 in flood, it would be almost impossible for Dr. Sandilands 
 to get across; at present there is a bridge of boats, but that 
 is taken away before the rains begin, and once the river 
 gets into flood it may take hours to cross it. 
 
 February 14. Bhandara. Before breakfast Mr. Rango 
 Harri, Drs. Revie and Sandilands, and I, went out to 
 inspect a possible site, two miles on the road to the railway 
 station. We found a place admirably suited to the purpose, 
 with a mango grove on it, a small tank, and a few good 
 fields. The difficulty will be to secure it. It is the property 
 of some natives, and we have asked them to sell it to us, as 
 the land is not of much use to them. We would even 
 leave out the fields, if they would give us the portion not 
 suitable for cultivation. 
 
 In the evening I had a most enjoyable drive with Mrs. 
 Revie and Dr. Sandilands. We went all round this very 
 pretty station. There are trees and water in abundance, 
 and the natives keep their dwellings exceedingly clean. 
 
 February 15. Bhandara. A day of happy, quiet rest, 
 thank God. There was no service for me to attend in the 
 
1S2 “ THE WATER WHICH YOU SEEK." 
 
 morning; so I had prayer and reading in Hindi with 
 Jonathan (who to my intense relief turned up yesterday 
 morning), and those of the mission servants who could 
 understand that language. I was greatly encouraged by the 
 interest which they evinced, especially as I got a message 
 through Jonathan asking me to have another service for them 
 in the evening, as the morning one had been so short. 
 
 After breakfast some of the native Christians came to see 
 me, and amongst them a very interesting old man, Maulvie 
 
 . He conversed with me at first in English ; but not 
 
 being very fluent in it he opened his heart in Hindustani, 
 and told me his whole history, a deeply touching one. He 
 was once at college with Maulvie I. D., and when the latter 
 wished to become a Christian this young class-fellow with 
 others helped to dissuade him from it, even buying a Bible 
 and some Christian books, just to show him that there was 
 nothing in the Christian religion. They succeeded in 
 
 turning I. D. away from his purpose, and Maulvie 
 
 then threw aside his Bible and thought no more about it, 
 until years after, when he himself became anxious about his 
 soul. He Avas in such despair that he consulted his otvn 
 Maulvies (religious teachers) as to how he might find peace 
 to his troubled conscience. Their answer Avas a remarkable 
 one : “ The Avater Avhich you seek we have not to give, you 
 had better go to Mecca, perhaps there you may find some 
 one Avho Avill be able to tell you about it.” He accordingly 
 determined to go, and Avhen packing up his things before 
 starting, he Avas looking out something to read on the 
 journey, and coming across the old Bible — the very one 
 he had used to dissuade I. D. Avith some years before — it 
 suddenly struck him that he had never read it through, and 
 so Avith the intention of taking it Avith him he began looking 
 into it. The result A\ r as that he gave up the journey to 
 Mecca, and became a follower of the Lord Jesus Christ! 
 Truly the Lord’s AA T ays are Avonderful. “ My thoughts are not 
 
THE NEEDS OF OUR CHRISTIAN BOYS. 
 
 183 
 
 your thoughts, neither are your ways My ways, saith the 
 Lord.” Immediately on becoming a Christian he wrote to 
 his old friend I. D., who was shocked and grieved at what 
 appeared to him such terrible news. At first he did not 
 reply; and when his old friend wrote again to know what he 
 had done to offend him, he replied very angrily ; but event- 
 ually softening down somewhat, he wrote, saying, “ Either 
 you must become a Mussulman again and join me, or I will 
 become a Christian and join you.” The latter happened, 
 and I. D. is now a well known and able preacher of the 
 Gospel. Several times during the above narration Maulvie 
 
 was affected to tears. Amongst other things he spoke 
 
 about the sons of native Christians. He feels very keenly 
 that enough is not being done to instruct them, and says 
 they often turn out badly just for want of proper instruction 
 and care. He advocates more Christian boarding-schools for 
 boys. The missionaries here speak very well of him. He 
 has held a good position under Government, and has now 
 retired on pension. He spends most of his time in writing 
 Christian books, and articles regarding Christian work gene- 
 rally. He is much respected by the European residents. 
 
 In the evening I had the privilege of taking the English 
 service in the Free Church Hall. There was a small attend- 
 ance, but then there are not many Europeans in the station. 
 My friend of the morning, Maulvie was present. 
 
 February 16. Monday. Bhandara. We have spent a 
 good deal of to-day visiting possible sites for the proposed 
 asylum, but as yet have not succeeded in securing anything. 
 In the evening I called on Mr. and Mrs. Rango Harri, and 
 afterwards had the pleasure of meeting Dr. and Mrs. 
 Prente at the Mission House. After dinner I started in a 
 bullock tonga for the railway station, where I arrived just 
 in time to escape a tremendous thunder-shower. I lay 
 down in the waiting-room for a few hours, as my train was 
 not due till the small hours of the morning. 
 
1 84 
 
 A GOOD SOLDIER OF JESUS CHRIST. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 MADRAS AND TINNEVELLI 
 
 February 20. Friday. Madras. On Tuesday morning, 
 at 3.17, we left Bhandara Road Station, and at 8.30, on 
 Wednesday morning, reached Bombay. There I spent the 
 day, and managed to work off a good deal of my accumu- 
 lated correspondence. Our train was delayed for a 
 considerable time on our nearing Bombay, as there had 
 been an accident near the Coorla Junction. We passed 
 the debris en route , and had considerable difficulty in 
 getting by, there being large portions of the wreckage of 
 the carriages projecting towards the line on which we were 
 travelling. There were, I believe, no lives lost. That 
 morning in the train I took out my Bible to read a chapter, 
 and a young soldier, who was travelling in the same carriage 
 with me, seeing me take out my Bible, got courage to do 
 the same, and so we were discovered to one another as 
 lovers of the same precious Word. We afterwards had a 
 little chat together, and I found that he was a convert of 
 the Salvation Army, and was on his way to Bombay to 
 spend a day’s leave with the Army. 
 
 I was greatly struck by the Victoria Railway Station. It 
 is one of the finest I have ever seen ; indeed, all the public 
 buildings in Bombay are fine. 
 
 We left Bombay at 9.15 on Wednesday night by mail 
 train, and on Thursday morning arrived at Barsf Road, 
 where we had our chhotf hazrf. We had passed during 
 the night Kalyan, Lanauli, Poona, Dhond Junction, and 
 
THE BRITISH AND FOREIGN BIBLE SOCIETY. 185 
 
 Diksal. Part of the night was very cold. We reached 
 Hudgf for breakfast, and then on to Shahabad, Wadi 
 Junction, and Raichur. At the last-named station we 
 changed from the G.I.P. Railway to the Madras Railway, 
 North-West Line. We got to Guntakul Junction at 7.49, 
 and dined. Reaching Gooty at 9 p.m., we settled down 
 for the night, and after a somewhat disturbed night we 
 reached Madras this morning precisely at 8 o’clock, having 
 been sixty-four hours in the train, and twelve at Bombay, 
 since we left Bhanddra Road. 
 
 The Rev. Henry Rice, of the Church of Scotland, kindly 
 met me at the station, and drove me at once to the house of 
 the Rev. S. W. Organe, formerly of the London Missionary 
 Society, but now Secretary of the Bible Society for the 
 Madras Presidency. The British and Foreign Bible Society 
 has done a grand work in India. We cull the following 
 interesting information from the Encyclopedia of Missions. 
 (Funk and Wagnall.) “Up to the year 1854 the various 
 auxiliaries and agencies had distributed in India 2,233,765 
 copies of Bibles, Testaments, and portions in many different 
 languages and dialects. In all, the Society has translated 
 and printed the Scriptures in twenty-nine languages and 
 dialects of India. It has established eight auxiliaries, with 
 twenty-two Branch Societies, which all belong to the Madras 
 auxiliary. There are 178 colporteurs employed. In 1883 
 a system was adopted for the employment of Biblewomen 
 under the superintendence of various Missionary Societies. 
 Under thirty-two Societies, 326 such Biblewomen were em- 
 ployed in 1888. The distribution by the auxiliaries in 
 British India amounts, from the first, to 8,534,533.” 
 
 The Society has a large central depot in Madras, which 
 is in charge of the Rev. Mr. Organe, assisted by the Rev. 
 Mr. Theophilus. Mr. Organe is on tour at present, but 
 Mrs. Organe is very kindly putting me up during my stay 
 here. There is a Y.M.C.A. Convention going on in Madras 
 
iS6 
 
 Y. M. C. A. CONVENTION. 
 
 just now, so that most of the missionaries of the different 
 Societies have their houses full. Dr. Fry, of the London 
 Missionary Society, from Xeyoor, is also a guest at this house, 
 and he and I hope to travel on to the South together. 
 
 What a luxury it was to have a bath on arrival to-day, 
 after four nights in the train ! After breakfast I went out 
 and called upon several missionaries and other friends, and 
 in the evening went to the Y.M.C.A. Convention meeting 
 at the Memorial Hall. This is, I believe, the first Conven- 
 tion of the kind ever held in the Madras Presidency j it is 
 certainly a hopeful sign of the times. At this Convention 
 there are delegates, both native and European, from 
 different parts of the country, some from Bombay, some from 
 Calcutta, &c. Dr. Fry is here with a contingent of young 
 men from Xeyoor. There is a branch of the Y.M.C.A. at 
 Xeyoor now. This movement, so well established at home, 
 is but in its infancy in India, and so is capable of immense 
 development. A General Secretary is very much needed 
 who would give his whole time to travelling and organising 
 Branch Associations. The Association must be first 
 Christian, and must include all, natives, Europeans, and 
 Eurasians alike. We had a great treat at the meeting this 
 evening, as Mr. and Mrs. Stebbins and their son were there 
 from America, and sang very beautifully. They are on a 
 Gospel singing tour throughout India at present. We 
 afterwards had a very brilliant address from the Rev. Roby 
 Fletcher, from Australia. 
 
 February 2 1. Saturday. Madras. Breakfasted with Mr. 
 and Mrs. Rice, of the Church of Scotland, and afterwards 
 went to call upon the ladies of the Church of Scotland 
 Ladies’ Association. They are just now Mrs. Reid — who 
 officiates for Mrs. Longhurst, at present in Australia — Miss 
 Cuthbert, Miss Gray, and Miss Wodehouse. In the after- 
 noon I visited the Tamil Ragged Schools under Mr. Joseph 
 Israel, and saw the two chief schools, one for girls and one 
 
MR. JOSEPH ISRAEL'S WORK. 
 
 187 
 
 for boys, and was much interested in them both. Before 
 leaving the Girls’ School I had a garland of flowers placed 
 round my neck by one of the girls, and scent squirted by 
 another into my face, until it ran down and dropped on to 
 my clothes. It was difficult to keep one’s dignity under 
 the circumstances, but I think I managed it, except that 
 I may possibly have been detected once or twice taking 
 furtive wipes at my face with my handkerchief ! The girls 
 sang God Save the Queen, and all the masters uncovered 
 while it was being sung. The girls went through some 
 exceedingly pretty games and exercises, both native and 
 English, accompanying themselves with singing all the 
 time. Mr. Israel has now nine schools and about 600 
 pupils. He has twenty teachers, men and women, almost 
 all Christians. He gets fifteen hundred rupees a month 
 from Government towards the expenses, and receives a like 
 sum from friends in Madras and elsewhere. In the two 
 schools which I saw there were 225 pupils present out of a 
 total of 285 on the rolls. Besides these schools there are 
 other interesting developments of the work. There is a I 
 night school for the benefit of poor coolies and domestic 
 servants who can spare a little time at night when their 
 work for the day is over. This school contains twenty- 
 eight pupils, of whom fourteen are ever twenty years of 
 age. There is a Poor Fund which has been organized by 
 the workers with the idea of helping poor and destitute 
 Christians and others. There is an annual Service of Song 
 on Christmas-eve. There are Sunday-schools. There is 
 Evangelistic work carried on by Mr. Israel, senior. And 
 lastly, there is work amongst lepers. Of this we read in 
 Mr. Israel’s report for 1890 the following: — 
 
 “ WORK AMONG LEPERS. 
 
 “Through the kindness of the Rev. C. H. Pelly, M.A., 
 the Chaplain of North Black Town, and the Chaplain in 
 
MR. ISRAEL AMONG THE LEPERS. 
 
 iSS 
 
 charge of the Leper Asylum, Mr. Israel, senior, was allowed 
 to resume his old work among lepers under the auspices 
 of the Church of England. On every Sabbath Divine 
 service is conducted according to the Church of England 
 form in the male ward of the Asylum, when on an average 
 thirteen Christians worship together. The instrumental 
 music which he had for a time was attracting a large 
 number of non Christian inmates to his services ; the little 
 chapel generally gets crowded, and on special occasions 
 there is scarcely even standing room in both verandahs. It 
 is very touching to see these unfortunate sufferers paying 
 rapt attention to the Word of God and to hear their hearty 
 singing, which is often accompanied with tears of joy : 
 there are five inquirers here who are quite ready for 
 baptism. 
 
 “ Services are also conducted in the female ward on every 
 Wednesday morning. The average attendance is above 
 thirty ; there is every sign that our labour of love will not 
 prove fruitless ; every Thursday morning is spent in visiting 
 all the native inmates of the Asylum, and in exhorting 
 them to give their hearts to their Saviour. The Gospel 
 message is very well received by them, and they joyfully 
 welcome the handbills and little tracts of the Religious 
 Tract and Book Society. The copies of Bibles and 
 Common Prayer Books given to the Asylum by the 
 Madras Auxiliary Bible Society and by the Society for 
 Promoting Christian Knowledge are freely used by the 
 Christian inmates.” 
 
 Mr. Israel’s is a most interesting native effort, and is 
 worthy of all success and encouragement. 
 
 February 22. Sunday. Madras. Went to the Scotch 
 Kirk in the morning, when the chaplain (Mr. Ogilvie) 
 officiated ; and in the evening attended a Service of Sacred 
 Song in the Methodist Church. The service, which con- 
 sisted of the singing of sacred pieces and hymns by Mr. 
 
THE MONEGUR CHOULTRY. 
 
 189 
 
 and Mrs. Stebbins and their son, was a great treat. 
 Amongst other things very well rendered was the Jubilee 
 Singers’ “Steal away to Jesus.” 
 
 February 23. Monday. Madras. Dr. Fry and I started 
 very early and drove over to the Monegur Choultry, and 
 visited the Government Leper Asylum. Dr. Cook, the 
 doctor in charge, very kindly showed us round, and took a 
 great deal of pains to explain everything. There are 233 
 inmates, and Dr. Cook thinks the place decidedly over- 
 crowded, but he said to us, “ How can I refuse them ? ” 
 Some are putting up in the verandahs. He is evidently 
 very kind to the lepers, and does all he can to make things 
 comfortable for them. He gets them to garden and keep 
 the place neat, and has given some of them musical instru- 
 ments ; indeed, he does all he can to make them happy. 
 The wards are beautifully clean and neat, and the lepers 
 are well cared for in every way ; he even allows them to 
 keep pets. There was a large number of very sad cases in 
 the Asylum ; some very little children, one about three 
 years of age. 
 
 Of the 233 inmates, 34 are European or Eurasians 
 (mostly the latter), 15 are Mahommedans, 164 Hindus, 18 
 native Christians, and two Burmese; 176 were men, 51 
 women, and six children. There is a jail department, to 
 which leper prisoners are sent by Government ; in it were 
 17, two of whom were Burmese. They have a leper jailer. 
 The doctor has allowed a small room to be set apart for a 
 Protestant church, part of a ward for a Roman Catholic 
 chapel, and part of a ward for a Hindu shrine. 
 
 Mrs. Theophilus, a daughter of the late Rev. Raja Gopal, 
 kindly superintends the work of two Biblewomen who work 
 on behalf of the Mission to Lepers. She came to meet us 
 to-day with the two Biblewomen, and we collected a large 
 number of the women and spoke to them. Three women 
 were pointed out who are about to be baptised. One of 
 
NOTHING ON EARTH TO KEEP HER. 
 
 190 
 
 these was very ill, and is not likely to live long. She 
 expressed her faith in Christ, and her desire to depart and 
 be with Him.* 
 
 Mr. Pelly, the chaplain of North Black Town, takes a 
 great interest in the Asylum and visits it regularly, and 
 holds services for the European inmates. Dr. Fry and I 
 called upon him, and he has kindly promised to superin- 
 tend the work of a catechist if the Mission to Lepers will 
 appoint one. We afterwards called upon the Rev. Mr. 
 Sell, the Secretary of the Church Missionary Society, and 
 arranged with him to bring the matter of securing a good 
 catechist before his native Church Council.! 
 
 In the afternoon Dr. Fry and I visited the Church of 
 Scotland College, which educates up to the F.A. standard. 
 Mr. Pateson kindly showed us all over, and took a 
 
 * This woman was baptised shortly after. This is what Mrs. 
 Theophilus writes about it: — “The poor woman you saw and spoke 
 to was baptised last Sunday by Mr. D. A. Peter, the native pastor of 
 the Church Mission, Black Town, in the Leper Hospital Chapel. 
 The pastor made the service simple, so as to suit his hearers, and also 
 explained to the ignorant Hindus present what the nature of the 
 baptism was and why it was given. The woman had to be earned 
 to the place, she was so very weak. We called her Elizabeth. She 
 seemed quite calm and at peace. The same night she had a dream, 
 she said, in which she heard God call her, who, she said, wanted her 
 to come up at once. She told us that she asked God to let her stay 
 two days longer, but He told her not to delay but to come up at once, 
 and she was quite willing to do His bidding and to go, for she had 
 nothing on earth to keep her. She died at about two o’clock yesterday 
 and was buried to-day. Her face lost all the painful expression it had 
 when you saw her, and she looked quite calm and peaceful, and had a 
 pleasant smile on her face. She was very grateful for all that had been 
 done for her. After the ceremony of baptism, the warder at the gate 
 asked what the commotion was, “and that on a Sunday 1” He was 
 told that Lachmi had got a new name, to which he replied, “ Why this 
 evil at the end of her career?” Some of the heathen women answered, 
 “Why, she will now be better cared for than before.” 
 
 T Mr. Israel, senior, has since been accepted by the Council, and 
 appointed to this work. 
 
TRULY EASTERN ! 
 
 191 
 
 great deal of trouble in explaining the working of the 
 several classes. He sadly needs a helper, as the work is 
 too much for one man. The last time I was in Madras, 
 Dr. Millar kindly took me all over his college, so that I did 
 not need to visit it this time. We afterwards called upon 
 Mr. Joss, of the London Missionary Society, and had a 
 pleasant chat with him on the top of his house, and a cup 
 of tea. In the evening Mr., Mrs., and Miss Philips, of 
 the London Missionary Society, and Mrs. Roby Fletcher, 
 from Australia, dined with us at Mrs. Organe’s, and after 
 dinner we all sat on the roof of the house. Before coming 
 down and parting for the night we repeated the 23rd Psalm 
 and had prayers on the roof — truly Eastern ! 
 
 February 24. Tuesday. Madras. In the morning Dr. 
 Fry and I went to the house of the ladies of the Ladies’ 
 Association of the Church of Scotland, and saw Mrs. Reid, 
 Miss Cuthbert, Miss Gray, and Miss Wodehouse. Miss 
 Gray kindly shewed us the Boarding School (a new building 
 is sadly needed), where there are thirty-five girls, mostly 
 Christians. They sang a Tamil lyric for us, and Dr. Fry 
 gave them a short address in Tamil. As we were leaving 
 one of the teachers rose, and on behalf of the girls sent 
 many thanks to kind friends at home. Miss Cuthbert then 
 took us to see two of their heathen schools, in which we 
 were very much interested. The girls answered several 
 Scripture questions correctly. The buildings were good, 
 but heavy rents have to be paid for them. Fees are 
 charged at all the schools. They receive Government 
 grants according to results. Great difficulties are encoun- 
 tered owing to constant absence for feasts and “ lucky 
 days,” “new moons,” &c. &c., and the girls being taken 
 away to be married. Out of twenty-seven teachers, twenty- 
 two are Christians. Miss Cuthbert seems much interested 
 in her work. 
 
 I dined with Mr. Harper in the evening. He is the 
 
192 
 
 DACOITY PRISONERS RELEASED. 
 
 third missionary of the Church of Scotland in Madras at 
 present. 
 
 February 25. Wednesday. Madras to Tinnevelli. Left 
 Madras at 7.15. The day was wonderfully cooL At 
 Tanjore was met by my nephew, Mr. H. E. G. Mills, 
 superintendent of the Tanjore Jail, who kindly brought me 
 some refreshments. We had but fifteen minutes together. 
 
 February 26. Thursday. Census-day in India. Tinnevelli. 
 We had a dreadful night in the train ! The cushions of our 
 second-class carriage seemed to be alive with vermin ! 
 Arrived at Maniyachi at 10 a.m., where we changed for 
 Tinnevelli. Arrived at Tinnevelli 11.30 a.m.-, where my 
 brother-in-law, Judge Grahame, kindly met me at the station, 
 and we drove home together to his house, Dr. Fry being the 
 guest of the Rev. Mr. Kember, of the C.M.S. at Pallam- 
 cotta. In the afternoon my brother-in-law took me to see 
 the jail, where some Dacoity prisoners were to be told that 
 their sentences had been reduced from life to, in some 
 cases, ten, and in others seven years, and to see two of 
 them released altogether. It was most extraordinary how 
 imperturbably they took it all. The two who were being 
 released seemed utterly dazed when their cell doors were 
 opened and they were told to come out ; they seemed quite 
 unable to realise it ; and when they did realise it they said 
 nothing, and showed no sign whatever of pleasure or 
 gratitude ! 
 
 February 27. Friday. Tinnevelli. Called upon Mr. and 
 Mrs. Kember, C.M.S., Mr. and Mrs. Key worth, and Miss 
 Asquith and Miss Swainson, of the Sarah Tucker Girls’ 
 SchooL I was greatly pleased with this institution, of 
 which I have heard so much. There are 395 women and 
 girls, all being carefully trained by trained Christian women 
 to be Christian teachers, and useful wives and mothers. 
 They have to take part in turns in all the departments of 
 the institution — cooking, drawing water, &c. They sleep 
 
TEACHING THE BLIND. 
 
 193 
 
 on the floor of their different class-rooms on mats, which 
 are rolled up during the day and hung up on the walls. I 
 addressed a few words to the girls on the “ Crowning Day ” 
 and “ Coming Kingdom,” they having just sung for us two 
 hymns suggesting these thoughts. There is a little hospital 
 being built, which is to be under Miss Swainson’s special 
 care. There are two classes — blind boys and men, and 
 blind girls, being taught on Moon’s system. Many of them 
 read nicely. 
 
 They are harvesting at Pallamcotta just now, and I 
 observed many widows and poor girls “gleaning after the 
 reapers.” Some were sweeping from the ground into their 
 baskets, and some were gathering ears here and there with 
 their hands, but no “handfuls” were being “let fall of 
 purpose ” for them ! 
 
 Dr. Fry and I started for Nagercoil in the evening. I 
 called for him at Mr. Kember’s, and before we left Mr. 
 Kember suggested our having a little prayer together, which 
 we did, commending one another and one another’s work to 
 the Lord. 
 
 0 
 
194 
 
 A VISITATION! 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 NAGERCOIL AND NEYOOR. 
 
 February 28. Saturday. Nagercoil. Oh, what a night 
 we have had of it ! We were travelling in what are known 
 as bullock transits — long, funnily-shaped bullock carts, with 
 a round top made of matting, like a barrel. On the floor 
 inside straw is laid, and over that rugs are spread for 
 bedding. We were not very long on the road when I 
 “ sniffed bugs ” (not American ones), and there they were, 
 without any manner of doubt, not by fives, or tens, or even 
 twenties, but by hundreds — everywhere, on everything, in 
 everything. They came out of the crevices of the wood, 
 and fell from the matting overhead. Do not be shocked, 
 fair reader, and say, “How vulgar!” These things, unmen- 
 tionable in polite society at home, often amount to a plague 
 in India. I once was obliged abruptly to close a meeting 
 through an invasion of such creatures coming suddenly 
 upon us. They are to be found in Kings’ Palaces and even 
 in Viceregal Courts. 
 
 Oh, the night that Jonathan and I spent ! Slaughter on 
 every hand, but no getting to the end of them ; we were 
 simply devoured, and there was nothing for it but to sit 
 and fight it out, and for thirteen long hours we fought it 
 out. Whenever the bullocks were changed we had a special 
 battue , impressing natives to help us, which they did right 
 willingly, exclaiming, “ Look there ; there is one biting,” 
 and so on. Notwithstanding all the horrors of the situa- 
 tion, Jonathan and I laughed again and again, and tried to 
 
FROM SCYLLA TO CHARYBDIS. 
 
 195 
 
 make the best of it. He was sitting on the box, but could 
 lean in through a kind of front window to help me, some- 
 times having half of his body in my compartment. Dr. 
 Fry, who was in another transit, did not suffer so much, as 
 his conveyance was comparatively free from them. 
 
 On arrival at Nagercoil Mission Bungalow, we found our 
 old and kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Duthie, of the London 
 Missionary Society, in the verandah at chhoti hazri. They 
 welcomed us most heartily, and invited us to let our things 
 be brought in ! “Oh, Mrs. Duthie,” said I, “nothing can 
 come in. Everything must spend the day in the sun, and 
 be picked and cleaned, for we have had a visitation ! ” 
 However, let us draw a veil ; I have had a bath and a 
 complete clean “ rig out,” and the things have been hours 
 in the sun, and have been picked and cleaned, and the 
 bullocks and carts and drivers are away, and “ may I never 
 see the like again the longest day I live ! ” An experience 
 like that of last night would take a good deal of the romance 
 of mission work away; but the Lord’s servants must be 
 willing to take the rough with the smooth. A short while 
 ago Jonathan came in to me, holding part of my bedding 
 in his hand, and, showing me a large hole in it, exclaimed, 
 “See, Sahib; no sooner do we escape from one kind of 
 animal than another eats up our bedding.” The new 
 invaders were the celebrated white ants, of whom it has 
 been said that in some places they are so bad that if you 
 go to bed on a wooden bedstead at night, you may awake 
 and find yourself on the floor in the morning, they having 
 eaten the bed from under you during the night ! 
 
 After breakfast Mrs. Duthie kindly took me over to see 
 her Biblewomen and her lace workers. The former number 
 eighteen, and are out from ten in the morning till four in 
 the afternoon, visiting their 500 women. It is arduous 
 work, but is being very faithfully carried on. This being 
 Saturday, they were all assembled to give in their reports. 
 
196 
 
 SHE DETERMINED TO TRY JESUS. 
 
 Some of the reports were deeply interesting ; one struck 
 me especially. A poor woman, who had some disease, 
 was in the habit of going to the idol and presenting her 
 petition to the image, and “was nothing bettered, but 
 rather grew worse.” One morning she went as usual, and 
 on arriving at the temple door she found the idol lying on 
 the ground in fragments — head off, hands here, feet there, 
 and so on. This completely destroyed her faith in the 
 image, and she began to reflect on the folly of that 
 wretched, helpless thing being able to help her ! She 
 accordingly turned back, and as she went, some of the 
 words she had heard from the Bible, through the Bible- 
 woman, came back to her mind, and she determined to try 
 Jesus. She seemed to meet Him by the way as she went 
 home, and she is now a firm believer on Him, and has 
 given up all idolatry, though she has never been able to 
 come out publicly. She prays to Him regularly, and is 
 much improved in health. There are many women of 
 those visited who are in a similar position : one we heard 
 of who prays regularly, and reads the Bible to her heathen 
 neighbours. Surely God will own such labours ! 
 
 There are about eighty women who work in lace, and 
 very beautiful it is. This lace work is quite an industry 
 here ; the gold is very pretty, also the silk, and silver and 
 silk mixed. Mrs. Duthie, the Mission House, Nagercoil, 
 South India, is glad to receive orders for these and other 
 varieties. 
 
 There is a splendid Christian work being carried on here, 
 the other European missionary being Mr. Allen. There 
 are large boarding-schools for Christians, girls and boys ; 
 there is a theological class being carried on by Mr. Duthie ; 
 there is a Christian congregation of about 1400, and a large 
 church for them to worship in. There is a printing press, 
 and there are three large reading-rooms, for which Mr. 
 Duthie would be very glad to receive nice periodicals. 
 
B URDEN-BEA REES. 
 
 197 
 
 Friends who are at a loss to know how to utilise their 
 magazines when read, please take note. 
 
 The Christian population of the L.M.S. in South Travan- 
 core alone numbers about 45,000, of whom 6000 are 
 communicants. All the Christians here are independent, 
 and do not look to the Mission for their support. Dr. Fry 
 has a district dispensary and hospital here, which is looked 
 after by a native Christian medical assistant. A nice new 
 hospital building has just been put up which I have seen. 
 
 This is a most interesting old town, the modern name 
 being Nagercoil, but the ancient name is Cottar. We went 
 out for a drive in the evening, and saw an old building 
 which is said to have been built by Zavier — one of his 
 chapels. Many Roman Catholic pilgrims come to visit it. 
 There is a large modern Roman Catholic chapel built close 
 beside it, and a large carhouse, in which is kept the car, on 
 which an image of the Virgin, accompanied by images of 
 the saints, is taken out in procession on special occasions. 
 
 All along the roadsides about here are to be seen the 
 Sumitanges, or burden - bearers ; they are just three long 
 stones, one placed upon two, somewhat like a door frame, 
 and are for resting burdens upon when they are lifted from 
 the head. Oh that all the poor people of this land would 
 learn to lay their heart burdens upon the true Burden- 
 bearer ! 
 
 One thing that strikes me about the work here as espe- 
 cially good is the way in which the Christians are being 
 cared for. This is a matter of the gravest importance, 
 which it behoves all Missions to take well to heart, 
 especially as regards the Christian lads. These lads and 
 lasses are the hope of the Church for the future — this 
 is the material to work upon. 
 
 Nagercoil is an exceedingly pretty place, and stands in a 
 half amphitheatre of high, bold hills. Every now and then 
 the loveliest little bits of scenery peep out here and there. 
 
MORNING SERVICE AT NAGERCOIL. 
 
 19S 
 
 I had no idea that this part of the country was so fine, or 
 that the foliage was so beautiful. 
 
 March 1. Sunday. Nagercoil. Morning service at 7 
 o’clock; a perfect inspiration; over 1000 Christians in the 
 congregation. The native pastor conducted the devotional 
 part of the service ; then there was a baptism ; after which I 
 went into the pulpit and spoke for about forty minutes to 
 a profoundly attentive audience, the address being very 
 carefully and, I hear, very well interpreted by one of the 
 native evangelists. I first spoke of the possibilities for 
 South Travancore out of such a body of Christians as 
 that, if they were all men and women full of the Holy 
 Ghost. I put before them their privileges and responsi- 
 bilities as Christians, after which I gave them an account 
 of the rise and progress of the Leper Mission, and wound 
 up by telling them of what one kind friend was going to do 
 for Neyoor.* This seemed to astonish and please them 
 much. On coming home I received a note from one of 
 the native Christians, sending me five rupees for the work 
 amongst the lepers. 
 
 I was introduced to an aged saint in church this morning, 
 who is a bright trophy of grace, and the only witness for 
 Christ in her village. Her son first became a Christian, 
 and was the means of leading his mother (then a widow) 
 and another son to Christ, but the daughters have remained 
 in heathenism to this day ! The old woman has suffered 
 much persecution, but has remained firm amidst it all, 
 though still a poor, ignorant old woman in many ways. 
 She walked in from her village to-day in order to hear the 
 strange sahib, and partake of the Communion afterwards. 
 She knows that she cannot live long, and in order that there 
 may be no trouble among her heathen neighbours at her 
 death, she has removed to a little house on the outskirts 
 of the village, has had her coffin made, and keeps it in the 
 
 * See page 203. 
 
SERVICE IN AN UNKNOWN TONGUE. 
 
 199 
 
 house by her ! She was very bright to-day, and, Mr. Duthie 
 says, took in what was said about the lepers, and was greatly 
 interested. 
 
 We had a delightful Communion service, conducted by 
 the native pastor, who is entirely supported by the native 
 congregation, and though I could not understand a word ot 
 what was said, yet I enjoyed it much. Jonathan went with 
 me, and just before we started he came to me and said, 
 “ Would you not have a word of prayer with me before we 
 go in?” I need not say that I gladly did so. Poor 
 fellow ■ he, too, could not understand a word of what was 
 said. 
 
 In the evening went for a pleasant walk with Mr. Duthie 
 and his son. We passed through a village, and had a 
 lovely view of Cape Comorin on the extreme right ; magni- 
 ficent high rugged hills in front. The Duthies are instant 
 in season and out of season. Mrs. Duthie was out in her 
 jinriksha at a village Sunday-school, and Mr. Duthie was 
 distributing tracts, which were eagerly taken in some cases, 
 only one being refused, and having conversations with little 
 groups of people here and there. There are numerous 
 Sunday-schools in connection with this mission, and men’s 
 and women’s classes. 
 
 We passed a small building in a three-cornered piece of 
 ground at cross-roads. It had once been used as a lock-up, 
 and terrible cruelties are said to have gone on. Mr. 
 Duthie has often seen the prisoners languishing there. Some 
 time ago such places were condemned, and were to be put 
 an end to, so this one was for sale. Some of the Christians 
 heard of it, and thinking that it would be an excellent 
 spot for a preaching station, they put their heads together, 
 valued the place, and made up their minds to subscribe 
 amongst themselves, and purchase it if possible. The day 
 of sale came, and the auctioneer stood and asked for bids. 
 Some Brahmans were standing on one side, and trying to 
 
2CO 
 
 NULLA THUMB V 
 
 make up their minds what they would give, having no 
 doubt but that they would get it. In the meantime the 
 auctioneer grew impatient, and one of the Christians 
 having made a bid, the Brahmans not having made up 
 their minds, he knocked it down to the Christians, much to 
 the chagrin of the Brahmans. This is a good illustration 
 of the independent spirit of the Christians here, and of 
 their living interest in the spread of the Lord’s kingdom. 
 They have secured this most important position, and have 
 handed it over for the Lord’s work. 
 
 We went into a little Sunday-school in the course of our 
 walk, and found two native Christian women at work, and 
 Mr. Duthie remarked that one of them had worked in that 
 school for many years as a voluntary worker. 
 
 March 2. Monday. Nagercoil. I am enjoying my visit 
 here immensely. There is undoubtedly a grand work 
 being done. This forenoon the workers came in from 
 the Tituvelli district, headed by their Pastor, Nulla 
 Thumby, or “Good Brother,” supported by Dr. Mackennal's 
 congregation in Bowdon. Nulla Thumby has thirteen 
 congregations in his charge, numbering 1400 people, of 
 whom 200 are communicants. He has a band of thirty- 
 two workers under him, twenty-six men and six women. 
 There is one central chapel, where all these congregations 
 meet on special occasions, such as the celebration of the 
 Lord’s Supper. The people give largely to the Lord’s work, 
 and do all repairs, Szc., with their own hands. 
 
 The three reading-rooms here in Nagercoil are supported 
 ‘in a very interesting way by the boys of the Seminary. 
 These boys contribute from their allowance of food so 
 much every month, and the money realized by the sale of 
 this food goes to support the reading-rooms. 
 
 In the afternoon visited the Boys’ and Girls’ Boarding 
 and Day Schools — almost all Christian children — also a 
 Tamil Boys’ School, supported entirely by the Christian con- 
 
THE LEPERS' WELCOME. 
 
 201 
 
 gregation here. There are a hundred Christian lads in 
 the Seminary, and forty girls in the Girls’ Boarding School. 
 These girls and boys are from the district; those belonging 
 to Nagercoil come as day scholars. 
 
 At 5 p.m. my jinriksha (perambulator for an adult) was 
 at the door, and, bidding farewell to my kind friends, I 
 started for Neyoor, which place I reached after a very 
 pleasant ride of two hours. After getting through a low 
 range of hills, we seemed to pass into quite a different 
 climate, warmer and more moist. The country assumed a 
 different appearance too, and the people seemed poorer. 
 
 Dr. and Mrs. Fry, of the London Missionary Society, 
 gave me a very hearty welcome, and I have now arrived at 
 a place which it has long been my desire to see. I was 
 once within four miles of Neyoor, lying in a steamer off the 
 coast at Colachal, but did not at the time know how acces- 
 sible it was. 
 
 March 3. Tuesday. Neyoor. Walked to the old leper 
 huts with Dr. Fry, where I had a very grand reception. 
 There was first an arch, on which was written on the front 
 side “ Welcome,” and on the other side “ Long live our 
 W. C. Bailey, Esq.” Further on was erected a square 
 pandal or covering, to shade us from the sun. This was 
 gaily decorated, and underneath it were placed two chairs. 
 James, the medical evangelist to the lepers, received us at 
 the entrance, and conducted us to our chairs. The lepers 
 were seated in front, twelve men and three women ; there 
 was another woman, but she was unable to come out of her 
 hut. Besides these there are two children, a boy and a 
 girl, who are to be removed at once to the home for 
 untainted children. There are five Christians and four 
 candidates for baptism. After I had made my salams we 
 sat down, and then there was a Tamil hymn sung by the 
 lepers, after which James led in prayer. Dr. Fry then 
 asked them if they would each repeat their favourite verse 
 
202 
 
 THE LEPERS' TEXTS. 
 
 of Scripture, and although they were quite unprepared for 
 the suggestion, they unhesitatingly did so, the little boy, 
 about four years of age, leading off with “ Suffer little 
 children to come unto hie.” He was followed by his old 
 father, who is blind, with, “Who forgiveth all thine 
 iniquities; who healeth all thy diseases.” (Ps. ciii. 3.) Then 
 we had in succession, “ The Lord executeth righteousness 
 and judgment for all that are oppressed.” (Ps. ciii. 6.) 
 “ Come unto hie all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and 
 I will give you rest.” (Matt. xi. 28.) “The Lord is merciful 
 and gracious, slow to anger, and plenteous in mercy.” (Ps. 
 ciii. 8.) “ Believe on the Lord Jesus Christ, and thou shalt 
 
 be saved.” (Acts xvi. 31.) “Whosoever shall confess Me 
 before men, him will I confess also before My Father which 
 is in heaven.” (Matt. x. 32.) “Blessed are the meek: for 
 they shall inherit the earth.” (Matt. v. 5.) “Blessed are 
 they which do hunger and thirst after righteousness : for 
 they shall be filled.” (Matt. v. 6.) “As the heaven is high 
 above the earth, so great is His mercy toward them that fear 
 Him.” (Ps. ciii. n.) “The Lord is my Shepherd, I shall 
 not want.” (Ps. xxiii. 1.) “ For God so loved the world, that 
 He gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth 
 in Him should not perish, but have everlasting life.” (John 
 iii. 16.) “The young lions do lack and suffer hunger: but 
 they that seek the Lord shall not want any good thing.” (Ps. 
 xxxiv. 10 — this was the little girl’s). And, “What shall it 
 profit a man, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his 
 own soul?” (Mark viii. 36.) 
 
 I then gave them an address, which James interpreted ; 
 and afterwards Dr. Fry said a few words in Tamil. 
 
 After breakfast I went over with Dr. Fry to see the new 
 Medical Mission Hospital, which has just been built. On 
 the front of the building, in wooden letters, which are 
 enamelled in blue, are the words “ Medical Mission,” and 
 below them, over the porch, and in Tamil lettering, 
 
A KIND FRIEND IN DUBLIN. 
 
 203 
 
 “ Mission Hospitary.” I remained for a little with Dr. Fry 
 while he lectured to his fine band of native Christian 
 Medical Students. He afterwards took me to see the 
 building for the Children’s Home, the gift of a kind friend in 
 Dublin, for the untainted children of lepers : it is to be 
 formally opened to-morrow. We also visited the site for the 
 new Leper Asylum : it, with the buildings to be erected 
 thereon, are also the gift of the same kind friend who has 
 given the Children’s Home. The site is a long oblong 
 piece of ground, sloping down from the road to a large tank, 
 and is prettily and suitably situated. 
 
 In the evening I went to a meeting of the Y.M.C.A. with 
 Dr. and Mrs. Fry. There are thirty members, all natives. 
 It was started three years ago. Thank God such an insti- 
 tution is now possible amongst the natives. I gave them 
 an address in English, which they were quite well able to 
 understand. I spoke of the Cork Y.M.C.A., and their 
 camp at Keswick ; then went on to speak of the teaching at 
 Keswick, pressing on them the glorious possibilities that 
 there are for the Christian in Christ. I spoke also of the 
 Chandausi Mela,* and gave them some incidents from my 
 tour, winding up by speaking of the Leper Mission work, 
 in all of which they seemed much interested. I think that 
 Dr. Fry is to be congratulated on having got this flourishing 
 little branch of the Y.M.C.A. started here. 
 
 In the evening Mrs. Thompson, widow of the late Dr. 
 Thompson, who was a medical missionary here, came over 
 to the Frys’ house, and we had all a pleasant evening 
 together. We closed by singing some of the Keswick 
 hymns. 
 
 * See page 86. 
 
204 
 
 CHILDREN'S HOME , NEY00R. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 NEY00R. 
 
 March 4. Wednesday. Neyoor. We opened the Children’s 
 Home to-day at 4-30. There was a very good attendance 
 of native Christians, amongst others two native clergymen ; 
 James, the medical evangelist; old Lois, the Bible-woman ; 
 all Dr. Fry’s students, and the medical evangelists from 
 out-stations ; there were also many of the school children. 
 In front sat the two children whom we saw at the leper 
 huts yesterday — they had been bathed, and had had 
 new clothes given them, and were looking quite smart — 
 little Sebethai and Samuel, for whose benefit, and that of 
 many others like them, this Home has been given. The 
 Europeans present were Dr. and Mrs. Fry, Mrs. Thompson, 
 Mr. Chatterton, from the Muttam Lighthouse, near Colachal, 
 and myself. I was voted to the chair, and requested to 
 open the building. The proceedings commenced by the 
 singing of a Tamil lyric by all. Then the Rev. V. Yovan, 
 a newly-ordained native minister, led us in prayer, and 
 read the fifty-fourth of Isaiah, both prayer and reading 
 being in Tamil. Dr. Fry’s students then sang, “ I am 
 so glad that our Father in Heaven,” &c., in English, after 
 which I made some remarks, and declared the Home duly 
 opened. Dr. Fry spoke on Jeremiah xlix. 11, and after 
 him Mr. Chatterton said a few very appropriate words. 
 He returned very hearty thanks to the kind donor of 
 the Home, and expressed his sense of responsibility in 
 having had the laying out of money thus consecrated. 
 
THE C.P. MEMORIAL LEPER HOME. 
 
 205 
 
 He has been very kind in planning and superintending 
 the building of this Home, and is also to assist Dr. Fry 
 in building the new Leper Asylum. After Mr. Chatterton 
 had finished I led in prayer in English, dedicating the 
 Home to the Lord, and was followed by Dr. Fry in a 
 Tamil prayer. The Rev. Zechariah, an aged native 
 minister, then pronounced the benediction. Over the gate 
 of the Home is a scroll, on which is written, “The C.G.P. 
 Memorial Home”; and underneath these words, “Jesus 
 called a little child unto Him.” 
 
 We then all proceeded in a body to the site for the new 
 Leper Asylum, preceded by some of the school boys and 
 girls singing hymns. When we reached the ground we 
 found that an arch had been erected, on which were the 
 words, “The C.P. Memorial Home”; and underneath, 
 “Jesus said, ‘Come unto Me, and I will give you rest.’” 
 At the other side of the arch was the inscription, “God 
 bless the Leper Mission.” When the asylum is finished 
 there will be placed permanently over the entrance, “The 
 C.P. Memorial Leper Home,” and “Jesus said, ‘Come 
 unto Me, and I will give you rest.’ ” There was a goodly 
 crowd of people awaidng us at the site. Chairs were set 
 for the Europeans, and seated on the left-hand side of the 
 archway were all the lepers from the leper huts who were 
 able to come up. Proceedings commenced by the poor 
 lepers singing a Tamil lyric; then James engaged in prayer 
 in Tamil, after which the Rev. Zechariah read Isaiah 
 xli. 10-20. I next made a few remarks in English, and 
 was followed by Dr. Fry, who addressed the lepers specially 
 on the words, “The love of Christ constraineth us.” I 
 then got up and turned the first sod, and engaged in 
 prayer in English, dedicating the place to God. Dr. Fry 
 followed me in a Tamil prayer, and the Rev. Zechariah 
 pronounced the benediction. All then rose to their feet, 
 and we sang the Doxology in English. 
 
20 6 
 
 NEY00R MISSION HOSPITAL. 
 
 This morning I had an opportunity of addressing 
 Dr. Fry’s students, speaking to them of the necessity 
 of entire consecration, and there being perfect confidence 
 between the soul and God, in order that there may be 
 successful work. In the evening I spoke at the usual 
 weekly prayer-meeting for native Christians. I spoke in 
 English, and the substance of what I had said was then 
 given in Tamil. 
 
 This has been a day full of happy service and of much 
 that has been very interesting. 
 
 I am greatly pleased with Neyoor ; it is a very pretty 
 place. The site for the new asylum is very good; it is 
 a long, narrow strip of ground running down from the high 
 road to a large piece of water, which is fringed by Palmyra 
 palms and other trees. 
 
 Mr. Chatterton has been very busy all day pegging out 
 the foundations for the first block of buildings for the 
 Leper Asylum. He certainly takes a very great interest 
 in the work. 
 
 March 5. Thursday. Neyoor. At nine o’clock went 
 over and took part in the opening service at the Mission 
 Hospital. There is a regular service in one of the wards 
 every day. Dr. Fry has a little harmonium brought in and 
 all who can attend the service. This morning we had the 
 hymns, “The Great Physician” and “Nothing but the 
 Blood of Jesus.” Then there was prayer and reading in 
 Tamil, and Dr. Fry gave a short address on “Old things are 
 passed away ; behold, all things are become new.” I said 
 a few words in English, which were interpreted, and then 
 with another short prayer we concluded. The attention was 
 very good indeed ; some seemed to listen with the greatest 
 interest; one I remarked especially. Surely such services 
 must be owned to the conversion of souls. Some of those 
 who come in hear the Gospel for the first time, and carry 
 the good news back to their homes and to their villages. 
 
A VISIT TO THE LEPERS. 
 
 207 
 
 After breakfast I called upon Mrs. Thompson, who very- 
 kindly took me to see the Girls’ School, in which I was 
 much interested. 
 
 In the evening I went for a walk with Dr. and Mrs. Fry. 
 We visited the Children’s Home, and saw the little ones 
 having a good romp. We asked the two children from the 
 Leper Asylum if they would like to go back there, or if 
 they would prefer to remain where they were. They both 
 answered very emphatically that they would prefer to remain 
 where they were. Poor little things, I should think they 
 would ! We then went on to the site for the Asylum, and 
 found the excavations for the foundations of the first central 
 block of buildings already well under weigh. 
 
 Got word this evening that the B.I.S.N. Company’s 
 steamer is likely to call at Colachal, which will be a great 
 convenience for me. 
 
 March 6 . Friday. Neyoor. Had a pleasant visit to the 
 lepers this morning with Dr. Fry. The old blind man told 
 me he was very happy. There are a mother and son here, 
 both lepers. We told the mother of the little girl who has 
 been taken into the home that her little one would be 
 allowed to come and see her sometimes, whereat she 
 appeared much pleased, poor thing. A boy asked for a 
 hymn-book, which was promised him. We then visited one 
 of the Christian streets of Neyoor. There are about 1000 
 adherents connected with this congregation, who support 
 their own pastor. 
 
 In the afternoon went out to a village school examination 
 with Dr. Fry — a school of heathen children, boys and girls, 
 being systematically taught Christian truths. Mrs. Thompson 
 came in before we had finished. There was one little girl 
 who had her ear torn in three pieces by the horrid earrings 
 which it is the custom for the children to wear here. One 
 sometimes sees as many as ten leaden rings in the ear of a 
 child, the rim of the ear being drawn down into a string. 
 
20S 
 
 A LEPER SHOPKEEPER. 
 
 Sometimes, as in this case, the flesh gives way altogether, 
 and hangs down in nasty jagged ends. A more barbarous 
 attempt at ornamentation one can scarcely conceive of. 
 
 There is an old Syrian church in the village, tumbling into 
 ruin ; only four of the community now remain. We saw a 
 Roman Catholic shrine on the way home, where a lamp is 
 kept burning at night, just as one sees in a heathen temple, 
 or at the tomb of a Mahommedan saint. 
 
 March 7. Saturday. Neyoor. After breakfast inspected 
 the Boys’ School, and examined many of the classes. Out 
 of 1 19 boys, there was only one heathen present. 
 
 At one o’clock I addressed Mrs. Thompson’s Bible- 
 women, some of the embroidery workers, and some 
 Christian village women, at Mrs. Thompson’s house. 
 There were about fifty present. I spoke in English, the 
 Rev. Zachariah interpreting, and the women seemed much 
 interested. 
 
 In the evening went for a walk with Dr. Fry and saw 
 a leper in a shop, sitting in the midst of his goods. He 
 sells betel nut, tobacco, oil, cakes, &c. &c. He has a 
 leprous brother living with him, also a brother not leprous, 
 and a niece who already shows signs of the disease. We 
 asked the healthy brother if he were not afraid to live in 
 the house, and he said that if it were not God’s will he 
 could not take the disease. 
 
 No news of my steamer as yet. 
 
 March 8. Sunday. Neyoor. Before breakfast went over 
 with Dr. Fry to the lepers, and had a happy service with 
 them. They seemed most grateful, and thinking that it 
 would probably be my last visit, sent many messages of 
 thanks to their friends at home, especially to one friend. 
 One young fellow amongst them has a very nice voice, and 
 seems to enjoy the singing greatly. Dr. Fry spoke on 
 “Whom the Ford loveth He chasteneth,” and I on “Rest,” 
 James interpreting for me. 
 
HAR VES T THANKSGIVING. 
 
 20 3 
 
 At the morning service for the native Christians I had 
 the privilege of preaching to a large congregation, and was 
 interpreted. They listened with great attention. Besides 
 the usual collection, there were several baskets of rice and 
 a basket of jagri (coarse sugar) placed in front of the pulpit 
 as Harvest Thanksgiving offerings. 
 
 Heard to-day that the steamer which should have arrived 
 at Colachal to-day has been detained, and will probably not 
 arrive there till the nth or 12th. 
 
 In the evening Dr. Fry read us out Pax Vobiscum , and 
 Mrs. Thompson coming over afterwards, we sang some of 
 the Keswick hymns, and so closed a very happy day. 
 
 All day long the pilgrims for the Mundaikadu festival 
 have been passing by, and oh it was sad to hear them 
 cry out “ Ram Ram ” in piteous tones every now and 
 then. 
 
 March 9. Monday. Neyoor. This is market day here. 
 I went to see the sight. It was a wonderfully stirring 
 scene. Thousands upon thousands of people selling all 
 kinds of wares, live stock also. The way in which fowls 
 are carried about by their feet is very cruel. I have seen 
 them slung over a pole and on to the side of a bullock cart 
 by their feet ! 
 
 Dr. Fry told me a very touching story to-night of a little 
 girl in the Royal Infirmary, Edinburgh, who had been 
 brought in there suffering from bruises inflicted with a poker 
 by a brutal stepfather. Her arm had to be amputated. 
 When first under chloroform she raved about the poker, 
 and then suddenly changed and sang very sweetly a verse 
 of “Jewels, precious jewels.” Dr. Fry said that it made a 
 profound impression upon all present. 
 
 March 10. Tuesday. Neyoor. At 6.25 this morning 
 Dr. Fry and I left for the Mundaikadu Mela in jinrikshas — 
 three men each. We reached there about 7.30, and 
 remained for some time. Mundaikadu means “the place 
 
 p 
 
210 
 
 MAD UPON THEIR IDOLS. 
 
 of a skull,” and has a curious history. There is an enor- 
 mous ant hill, over which a temple has been built as a 
 covering, opposite which stands another smaller temple. 
 In days gone by as the people saw the ant hill gradually 
 growing bigger they concluded that it was the work of a 
 god, and so the place became increasingly sacred, until 
 now thousands upon thousands of people congregate there 
 every year. The presiding deity is credited with wonderful 
 powers. If a woman wants a baby she will offer a 
 wooden one in a cradle ; if anything is wrong with the 
 head, a wooden head is offered; and so on with a leg or 
 an arm. If anything special is wanted for a child they 
 will sometimes pierce the sides of the unfortunate child 
 with wires, and drag it shrinking and trembling round the 
 hill. 
 
 The crowds on the road to-day were something awful, and 
 we saw some terrible sights by the way. The beggars — men, 
 women, and children, some crouching and some lying full 
 length on the roadside — were dreadful to look upon. Poor 
 emaciated creatures, maimed and deformed, were whining 
 piteously, and exhibiting their deformities as we passed by ; 
 some were beating on their breasts. At one place we 
 passed a mother and a little boy, the latter about seven 
 years of age ; and the wretched mother, in order to excite 
 sympathy or attract attention, had buried the boy’s head, 
 neck, and chest in damp fine sand : he was lying on his 
 back with his head and shoulders under a heap of this sand, 
 and his legs and thighs sticking out uncovered. It was a 
 horrible sight, and Dr. Fry and I speedily put a stop to it, 
 and threatened to give the woman up to the police if 
 we knew of her doing it again. Round the shrine at 
 Mundaikadu the people were in a dense mass, and the 
 excitement was something fearful. Truly they were “ mad 
 upon their idols.” In front of the sacred ant hill police 
 were stationed, so as to admit the worshippers in turn 
 
SKETCH OF WOODEN BABY. 21 1 
 
 as far as possible ; these men had sticks, which they 
 flourished over the heads of the people in order to keep 
 
 them back. A Brahman 
 gave us a seat in front of 
 the ant hill, so that we 
 saw everything that was 
 going on. Poor wretches ! 
 Men and women were 
 rolling round and round 
 in the dust, others were 
 measuring their length 
 along the ground, while 
 the perspiration flowed 
 freely from them and 
 mingled with the dust in 
 which they were rolling. 
 These poor people were 
 fulfilling vows that they 
 
 SKETCH OF WOODEN BABY OFFERED 
 AT MUNDAIKADU. 
 
 had made, to roll or measure their length round the shrine 
 so many times. Some of them were attended by friends 
 who fanned them from time to time, or kept back the 
 
212 
 
 MUNDAIKADU MELA. 
 
 people from trampling on them. Some were presenting 
 their children, adorned with head-dresses and garlands 
 of flowers, to the idol. At one stage of the presentation 
 these poor children had their skin pierced at either side 
 and a wire passed through, by which, when fastened in 
 front, the children were led forward and made to join 
 their hands and bow low in front of the idol. Men were 
 going about selling rudely-carved wooden legs, arms, and 
 heads, and wooden babies and cradles to those who might 
 wish to make such offerings. On one side was an enormous 
 heap, about the size of an ordinary haystack, of things 
 so offered, which would afterwards be sold as firewood. 
 It was altogether a very pitiful sight, and we came away 
 feeling very sick at heart 
 
 Dr. Fry spoke to the Brahman who had given us a seat, 
 and he said, “Well, you see, sir, cows of different shapes 
 and colours all give the same kind of milk ; so there are 
 many religions in the world, but all lead to the same end.” 
 Dr. Fry replied, “You can never make me believe that a 
 religion which countenances such cruelties as these can be 
 of God.” Mr. Allen and a band of workers from Xagercoil 
 were present, also a goodly band from Neyoor. They 
 spoke to the people and gave tracts, which were eagerly 
 taken. It was a grand opportunity. 
 
 After leaving the Mela, Dr. Fry and I went on to 
 Muttam Lighthouse, the most southerly light in India, 
 where we spent a very pleasant day with Mr. Chatterton. 
 Muttam is the place where Dr. Leitch, the first medical 
 missionary to this part of India, was drowned in 1854. He 
 went to bathe with a friend, jumped in off a rock, and was 
 never seen again. We got home again about 7 p.m. As 
 we passed Mundaikadu we found that the people had 
 thinned away wonderfully. There were, however, many 
 there still, who rushed up to our jinrikshas when they saw 
 we had tracts for distribution. On the way home we met 
 
LAST SERVICE WITH THE LEPERS. 
 
 213 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Chisholm driving, who told me that my 
 steamer will not be at Colachal before Friday. I shall not 
 now be able to stay at Alleppey, but must go right on in 
 the steamer. 
 
 March 1 1. Wednesday. Neyoor. Last night was terribly 
 hot, not a breath of wind stirring ; very difficult to get 
 sleep. 
 
 March 12. Thursday. Neyoor. Before daylight this 
 morning Jonathan was at my bedside with a very kind 
 letter from Mr. Knowles, L.M.S., of Paraychaley, inviting 
 me to spend the day with him, to meet his Christian agents 
 who are gathered there just now. It would have been a 
 great pleasure to do so, but the notice was too short, and 
 my steamer’s movements too uncertain. Mr. Knowles has 
 about 14,000 Christians in his district. 
 
 Dr. Fry and I went over again to the lepers this morning 
 and had a pleasant little service with them. I spoke on 
 Revelation xxii. ; Dr. Fry also spoke. There were two 
 lyrics sung, and one of the lepers engaged in prayer. It 
 was deeply interesting. 
 
 In the evening went for a drive to Kadamaliekunnoo 
 (the hill sea-view), where there is a large chapel being built 
 to accommodate about 800 people. It is M. Haker’s 
 intention to have ten such central chapels throughout the 
 Neyoor district, in which there are now about 10,000 
 Christians. The Lord has indeed greatly blessed the work 
 of His servants in this field. The population of Travancore 
 numbers upwards of 2,000,000, of whom one-fifth have 
 now become nominal Christians. In the census report it 
 it said, “ By the indefatigable labours and self-denying 
 earnestness of the large body of the missionaries in the 
 country the large community of native Christians are 
 rapidly advancing in their moral, intellectual, and material 
 condition.” The view from the new chapel of Kadamalie- 
 kunnoo is something very grand indeed. 
 
214 
 
 CHEAP PIKE-APPLES. 
 
 March 13. Friday. Neyoor. Pine-apples are very cheap 
 here; Mrs. Fry once got fifteen for a chakram (six-sevenths 
 of a penny). 
 
 On the look-out all day for news of steamer, but up 
 to evening none came. Mrs. Fry and I then drove down 
 to Colachal to call on the Chisholms. They were not 
 at home, so we went on down to the beach. We heard 
 from natives that the steamer is expected to-morrow. 
 
 March 14. Saturday. Neyoor. Busy writing all day. 
 Got a note in the afternoon to say that the steamer will 
 be in at eight in the morning. Started Jonathan off to 
 Colachal with baggage about 5.30 p.m. Afterwards had a 
 game of tennis with Dr. and Mrs. Fry and Solomon, 
 one of the medical students. Dined with Mrs. Thompson. 
 
REMINDED OF A SUNDAY IN SCOTLAND. 215 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 ALLEPPEY, CALICUT, \ BOMBAY. 
 
 March 15. Sunday. S.S. Sirdhdna. This morning, 
 at 7.15, I left the hospitable roof of Dr. and Mrs. Fry, 
 where I have spent a most delightful time. Dr. Fry 
 kindly drove me down to Colachal. As we left Neyoor, 
 we met Pakianadan, one of the medical evangelists, who 
 asked me to convey his “ humble compliments ” to Dr. 
 Lowe, of the Edinburgh Medical Mission. I was greatly 
 delighted to meet, as we passed along, the native Christians 
 trooping in for public worship. It reminded me of a 
 Sunday in Scotland in the country districts. Many were 
 coming in to the Neyoor church; others we met further 
 on coming to the large chapel between Neyoor and 
 Colachal ; and others again were assembling at the Colachal 
 chapel. 
 
 I bid Dr. Fry good-bye on the beach at Colachal, and 
 then Jonathan and I embarked, I being carried by the 
 boatmen through the shallow water to the boat in which 
 we were rowed to the B.I.S.N. Co.’s S.S. Sirdhdna. 
 
 Immediately on going on board, Jonathan and I had a 
 little service in my cabin in Hindustani. Mr. and Mrs. 
 Chisholm, from Colachal, going to Quilon, and a Mr. and 
 Mrs. Sherman, going to Tellicherry, are fellow-passengers. 
 We saw some immense blackfish to-day; they are of the 
 whale species, and, the captain tells me, are sometimes 
 found as long as forty feet. 
 
2l6 
 
 ALLEPPEY: A CON TP ASP. 
 
 Arrived at Quilon at 5 p.m., where Mr. and Mrs. 
 Chisholm left us. We started again at 9.30, and crept 
 along all night, the captain not wishing to arrive at 
 Alleppey before morning. 
 
 March 16. Monday. S.S. Sirdhana. Arrived at Alleppey 
 at 6 a.m., and shortly after Rev. W. J. Richards, C.M.S., 
 came off to us in a boat as we were lying a considerable 
 distance out. He and I immediately went on shore, and 
 on landing went off in a push-push to the new Leper 
 Asylum. There is now a very neat, comfortable building 
 to hold twelve people, and a nice little cook-house, both 
 pucca (permanent), as well as a very good mat hut 
 inside the gateway for the teacher. The place is one 
 hundred yards square, and the whole is surrounded by a 
 strong brick and mortar wall. There are some cocoanut 
 trees in the centre, close to which is an old hut. The 
 whole is completed by a good entrance gate, which, how- 
 ever, as well as the teacher’s house, does not appear in 
 our illustration. There were seven lepers present, all 
 men, and there are a woman and a little boy supported 
 outside. What a contrast between this place and the old 
 charity shed of which I wrote in December, 1886, as 
 follows : — 
 
 “ To-day I visited the charity shed with Dr. Poonen and 
 Mr. Richards. The lepers occupy one long shed made of 
 matting and bamboo ; there is no attempt at flooring, the 
 poor sufferers lying on the sand in all their sores. There 
 were about fifty people altogether, of whom fourteen were 
 lepers. There were some truly horrible sights — sights such 
 as need not be were the poor creatures but in a clean place, 
 on good floors, and using some of the ordinary alleviations. 
 There is great need for some proper place being built for 
 these poor people, and I do earnestly hope that Mr. 
 Richards may soon be able to erect the building that he 
 has set his heart upon.” 
 
First Want of the Alleppay Leper Asylum, Travancore . — Popp 21R. 
 
IT WAS QUITE PITEOUS TO SEE THEM." 217 
 
 The Rev. F. E. Wigram, Hon. Sec. C.M.S., who visited 
 the place shortly before I did, speaks of it as follows : 
 
 “ I mentioned my own visit to India, and I believe that I 
 can best expend a few moments in telling you something of 
 what I saw of these poor lepers. I went to Alleppey. Our 
 Church Missionary Society’s missionary, Mr. Richards, took 
 me to see those charity huts where the poor lepers were 
 assembled. How I wish that others of you had been there 
 and seen what I saw. I shrink from attempting to picture 
 it to you. I shall not attempt to do so. I can only say 
 that it was intensely distressing and intensely painful. The 
 poor people came out from the little row of huts in which 
 they lived, showing us the filth in which they were, and 
 pleading with us that something should be done for them, 
 that they might, at all events, be free from the terrible dis- 
 comfort of that filth. The floors were mere sand. There 
 was no keeping the place clean. Oh, they did look so 
 miserable that it was quite piteous to see them ! There 
 was a little tiny place of worship, and there was a catechist 
 whose work it was to labour amongst them ; and it was a 
 bright spot ! There was nothing bright in those miserable 
 huts. There was nothing but what was repelling in the 
 miserable, awful forms of those poor lepers. But there was 
 something bright in realizing that there was being kindled 
 there a light which would shine into all their darkness, 
 and give them peace and joy even in the midst of their 
 trouble. And the Lord has not withheld His blessing 
 upon the effort.” 
 
 To-day the poor people looked so comfortable and happy. 
 One of them — the Misses G.’s leper — professes his faith in 
 Christ, and is about to be baptized. He had that beautiful 
 text, “God commendeth His love toward us, in that, while 
 we were yet sinners, Christ died for us,” printed on a cloth, 
 and read it for us with evident pride. 
 
 I have recommended a second building and a wall down 
 
2 iS 
 
 THE BASEL J f/SS/OX. 
 
 the middle, also that an attendant should be kept to cook 
 and supply water, and that the lepers should have “ cloths 
 and bedsteads given them. On leaving the asylum we 
 went to the mission house, where I was glad to renew my 
 acquaintance with Mrs. Richards. My time, however, was 
 so limited that after having a cup of tea I was obliged to 
 start at once for the ship, Mr. Richards accompanying me 
 on board to see me off Weighed anchor at 1.30 for 
 Cochin. 
 
 March 18. Wednesday. Calicut. Spent yesterday taking 
 in cargo at Cochin. I did not go on shore, as we lay far 
 out, and besides I had seen the place before. Arrived 
 here this morning at 6.30, and went on shore immediately 
 — a long row in an open boat I walked first to the 
 railway station, where I left Jonathan and the baggage, 
 then, getting a coolie to guide me, made for the Basel 
 Mission quarters. I called first at the shop — this being 
 a part of the Industrial Mission — then at Dr. Liebendorfer’s 
 house. The good doctor kindly asked me to spend the 
 day and night with him, to which I gladly assented. 
 Before breakfast he and I visited the shop and the 
 weaving establishments of the mission. There is also 
 a tile manufactory, but this we had not time to visit. 
 These establishments, which are to be found all through 
 the Basel Mission, are in order to give employment to the 
 native Christians. They are superintended by European 
 lay brethren. 
 
 The Basel German Evangelical Mission, on the Western 
 Coast of India, occupies five centres, viz., Canara, Coorg, 
 South Mahratta, Malabar, and the Xilagiris. These are 
 subdivided into 24 stations. They have 66 European male 
 missionaries, of whom 50 are ordained, and 16 are lay 
 brethren. There are 50 European lady workers. They 
 have 325 native agents employed, of whom 15 are pastors, 
 106 evangelists or catechists, n colporteurs, 16 bible- 
 
CALICUT LEPER ASYLUM. 
 
 219 
 
 women, 135 Christian schoolmasters, and 42 Christian 
 schoolmistresses. 
 
 There were 177 new converts during the past year. Out 
 of a total of 9,682 adherents, 5,160 are communicants, 170 
 non-communicants, and 4,352 are children. The present 
 number of candidates for baptism is 343. 
 
 In the afternoon I visited the Leper Asylum, which is 
 on the sea beach, just beyond a fishing village, having 
 first obtained leave to do so from Dr. Beach, the civil 
 surgeon. 
 
 The Asylum is a large bungalow, with three large rooms 
 24 by 24 feet. It is enclosed by a wall, with palings on 
 the front part, which faces the sea. The place and inmates 
 looked very neglected. Two rooms are occupied by seven- 
 teen men, of whom fourteen were present, and the third 
 was given up to the women, of whom there were three. 
 The place is constructed to accommodate twenty - four 
 persons, eight in each room. There are verandahs back 
 and front, but closed in with glass and woodwork ; this has 
 the effect of hindering ventilation, and rendering the rooms 
 very dark and gloomy. There was no one to give me any 
 information about the place but one of the inmates, who 
 fortunately could speak a little Hindustani. The poor 
 people looked wretched, and frightened out of their wits 
 at my visit. I, however, assured them through my 
 Hindustani-speaking (?) interpreter that I came only as 
 a friend. Five of the inmates, I was told, are Christians, 
 three being Roman Catholics and two Protestants. At 
 the back of the house is a small cook-house and a store- 
 room. There are two small corner rooms in the house 
 which are said to be bath-rooms, but seemed to me to be 
 filled only with rubbish. There is a little room called 
 the Dispensary, but there are no medicines, or, at least, 
 none worthy of the name ! I suppose the place - is 
 called a Government institution, but it is a great con- 
 
220 
 
 OUR KITH AND KIN IN INDIA. 
 
 trast to the Leper Hospital at Madras, or the Asylum at 
 Dehra Dun. 
 
 Spent a very pleasant evening with Dr. and Mrs. Lieben- 
 dorfer. 
 
 March 19. Thursday. Left Calicut by 8 a.m. train, 
 Dr. Liebendorfer very kindly seeing me off at the station. 
 Had the carriage to myself all day. Journey very hot. 
 Breakfasted at Shoranur and dined at Salem. 
 
 March 20. Friday. Arkonum. Had a fairly good night 
 in the train. Had to cover with a blanket and close the 
 windows at one side. Arrived here at a little before five, 
 and after a cup of coffee lay down and had a rest in one of 
 the excellent retiring-rooms provided at this station for 
 travellers at the small charge of one rupee for twenty-four 
 hours. Am spending the day at the station, as I cannot 
 get a train to take me on till the night mail. Left by the 
 8.18 p.m. mail train for Bombay. 
 
 March 21. Saturday. This morning I was joined by 
 Rev. Mr. Row, of the Anglo-Indian Evangelisation Society, 
 who was a very pleasant companion as far as Raichur, 
 where we breakfasted, and he left the train. Mr. Row 
 gave me a distressing picture of the spiritual needs of the 
 Europeans in many parts of India. He told me of one 
 place where they had not had a service of any kind for 
 twelve years, and of another where there had been no 
 service for seven years. At one place the people so 
 appreciated a visit from him that they asked him to remain 
 as their pastor, and promised to pay his salary. 
 
 At Raichur I was joined by a Parsee gentleman and 
 family, who turned out to be very nice people. His wife 
 had been a pupil of Miss Sorabji in Poona, and evidently 
 felt very kindly towards her. I had an interesting talk with 
 him on the privilege of preaching Christ ; he was somewhat 
 of a Theosophist. 
 
 Further on the Rev. Mr. Bateson, Army Temperance 
 
ARMY TEMPERANCE. 
 
 221 
 
 Chaplain, joined us. He told me much that was very 
 encouraging of the Army Temperance movement. The 
 society has not adopted the Dual Basis, none but total 
 abstainers being allowed to become members of the 
 association, but men of good conduct and sober habits are 
 allowed to use the society’s rooms. Mr. Bateson said that 
 there are now 16,000 abstainers in the British army, and 
 the number is steadily increasing. He is well received 
 everywhere, both by officers and men. 
 
 March 22. Sunday. Early this morning our train arrived 
 in Bombay, and I came straight to the Great Western 
 Hotel, where, after breakfast, I had a pleasant time of 
 reading and prayer with Jonathan in Hindustani. In the 
 evening called for Mr. Summers at the Apollo Bunder 
 Hotel, and we went together to the Scotch Kirk. 
 
 March 27. Friday. Bombay. Have been spending a 
 pleasant few days in Bombay; very restful after all my 
 travelling. At seven this morning Mr. Summers called 
 for me, and we drove together to Matunga to see the new 
 Leper Asylum. The buildings have been subscribed for 
 by public charity, a sum of 73,000 rupees having been 
 collected, of which amount close upon 50,000 rupees 
 have been expended. The place is at present supported 
 by two grants of 1000 rupees per month each from the 
 Bombay Government and the Municipal Corporation. It 
 is under the supervision of the Municipality of Bombay, 
 and the direct management of Mr. H. A. Acworth, the 
 Municipal Commissioner. At first the lepers were brought 
 in by force, and a police guard placed at the gate to prevent 
 any of the inmates running away ; but Mr. Acworth says 
 that there is now no longer any need for the police, as the 
 inmates make no attempts to escape, and seem to acquiesce 
 in their confinement. The action of the Municipality in 
 thus enforcing the segregation of these lepers is based 
 upon Section 424 of the Municipal Act of 1888, which 
 
LEPER ASYLUM, MATUXGA. 
 
 2 22 
 
 empowers the removal to hospital of vagrant and homeless 
 people suffering from a disease dangerous to the public 
 health. 
 
 Mr. Summers and I drove out in a victoria, the distance 
 being about six miles. We passed through Byculla, Parel, 
 and the village of Matunga, and then came upon the 
 Asylum, a little beyond the village. The place is very well 
 situated, and there is a good water supply. It is all en- 
 closed inside a barbed wire fence. There are at present 
 five blocks of buildings occupied, and another is being 
 built Each block has two sets of rooms, divided from 
 each other by a high zinc partition. There is a store-room 
 and dispensary, a large cook-house, and servants’ quarters. 
 The arrangements seem to be good, and the inmates appear 
 to be well cared for ; but some of them had a most unhappy 
 appearance, owing no doubt to the dreadful nature of their 
 disease, coupled with the fact of their being compelled to 
 remain. There were some terribly bad cases, several poor 
 little children. The worst case I saw was that of a Jewess. 
 One poor fellow was pointed out to me who had burnt him- 
 self fearfully in burning the dead body of a comrade. He 
 knew nothing of it at the time — the dead burning the dead ’ 
 Dr. N. H. Chowksy is in medical charge, and was most 
 kind and painstaking in showing us round and explaining 
 everything. I went into every ward and visited, I think, 
 every case. In my remarks in the visitor’s book I suggested 
 that the children should be put into a place for themselves, 
 should be taught to read and write, and should have some 
 amusements provided for them. Poor little things, they 
 need “ mothering !” 
 
MATUNGA VERSUS DHARMSALA. 
 
 223 
 
 The following table of statistics, supplied me by the 
 officials in charge, will no doubt prove of interest to our 
 readers : 
 
 STATEMENT SHOWING THE NUMBER OF LEPERS ACCORDING 
 TO THEIR SEX, CASTE, AND AGE, ON THIS DAY. 
 Matoonga, 27 th March , 1891. 
 
 Oaste. 
 
 Males. 
 
 Females. 
 
 Children. 
 
 Age. 
 
 Totals. 
 
 5 to 15 
 
 1 6 to 30 
 
 30 to 60 
 & above. 
 
 Eurasian . 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 Parsi 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 Mussalman 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 Israel 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 I 
 
 Native Christian 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 «3 
 
 Goldsmith 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 I 
 
 Vaish Wani 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Maratha . 
 
 81 
 
 29 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 39 
 
 71 
 
 115 
 
 Mahar 
 
 16 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 S 
 
 14 
 
 23 
 
 42 
 
 Chambhar 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 Bhaugce . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 120 
 
 6l 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 70 
 
 III 
 
 194 
 
 What a contrast there is between this institution and the 
 Dharmsala, in Byculla, than which I have never seen a more 
 horrible place. Any one caring to read a full description of 
 it will find one in my book, A Glimpse at the Indian 
 Mission Field and Leper Asylums. (Shaw and Co.) It is to 
 be hoped that the Dharmsala Leper Abode will soon be a 
 thing of the past ; but I was sorry to see that at the time of 
 the public meeting of the Homeless Leper Relief Fund, in 
 February, Mr. Acworth is reported to have said that there 
 were still ioo cases left in the Dharmsala. Only 45 had 
 been removed to Matunga, which he called “45 of the worst 
 cases he had ever got hold of, and it was found that this 
 Dharmsala was the harbour of more putrid and gangrenous 
 
224 HOMEWARD BOUND! “ GOOD-BYE , JONATHAN." 
 
 cases than were to be found in the whole city.” Matunga 
 will have to be considerably enlarged, and this is, I believe, 
 in contemplation. When that is done, and when Sir Din- 
 shaw Manockjee Petit’s Home, near Trombay, of which 
 His Royal Highness Prince Albert Victor laid the 
 foundation in 1890, is ready, there may be sufficient ac- 
 commodation for the leper population of Bombay ; but as 
 things are at present there must be still many poor sufferers 
 wandering about in their wretchedness, a source of misery 
 to themselves, and an object of loathing to others. 
 
 Now comes the question, Who will take Christ to these 
 poor outcasts ? It has been proved over and over again that 
 lepers as a class lend a ready ear to the gospel, and many 
 spiritually-cleansed lepers are to be found throughout India, 
 as the foregoing pages will show, who to-day are bearing 
 testimony to the power of Christ to heal their sin-sick 
 souls, and bring comfort, and even joy, into their desolate 
 ' lives. Is there no one in Bombay whom the love of Christ 
 will constrain to take up this work ? 
 
 March 28. Saturday. S.S. Bengal. Homeward bound ! 
 I have just bid good-bye to my faithful Jonathan, whom I 
 left standing on the Apollo Bunder, looking very discon- 
 solate as he waved his adieus, and watched me start to 
 cross the Kala Pan! (Black Water). “ Only a nigger,” I 
 hear some one say. “ How can you ever expect to make 
 Christians of such people?” Good-bye, Jonathan. You 
 have been devoted and faithful to me during the short time 
 you served me, and I cannot part from you without bearing 
 testimony to your consistent Christian character. God 
 bless you, simple, earnest soul. 
 
 — '-<w 
 
WESTWARD HO! 
 
 225 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 We had a very pleasant run home in the Bengal ; a 
 beautiful passage all the way. There were many mission- 
 aries on board, and we had much pleasant fellowship 
 together. On several occasions we had Bible reading and 
 hymn singing in the second saloon. We arrived at Aden 
 on the evening of the 2nd April, at Suez on the morning of 
 the 7th, and went into the Canal at once. We got through 
 the Canal without any delay, and after a very good trip 
 across the Mediterranean, arrived at Brindisi at 8 a.m. on 
 April 11, considerably under fourteen days from Bombay. 
 I left the steamer at Brindisi, and took the P. and O. 
 express train for London, which left Brindisi at 11.40 a.m. 
 We travelled via the Mont Cenis Tunnel, taking 33^ 
 minutes to get through. Calais was reached a little after 7 
 on the morning of the 13th April, where a special steamer 
 awaited us. We crossed without any delay to Dover, and 
 catching the 9.32 train to London, steamed into Charing 
 Cross Station at 11.30, just 15 days and 15 hours from 
 Bombay, and under 48 hours from Brindisi. I left London 
 by the 8.50 p.m. from Euston, and arrived at the Caledonian 
 Station, Edinburgh, at 7 a.m., on April 14th. 
 
 I have thus been 194 days away from home, during 
 which time I have been kept in health and strength, and 
 have travelled altogether, by land and by sea, 24,590 miles, 
 without let or hindrance, accident or mishap of any kind ; 
 and as I look back upon all those miles and miles of travel, 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 PRAISE HIM ! PRAISE HIM ! 
 
 and see during them all the guiding, protecting, and sus- 
 taining hand of my loving Father in heaven, my heart rises 
 in adoring gratitude to Him for all His goodness to His 
 most unworthy servant. I feel deeply sensible, too, of the 
 big debt of gratitude I owe to all my missionary and other 
 friends in India and Burma for the more than kind and 
 loving hospitality that I received at their hands. 
 
 Of the above total distance travelled, i3,rr9 miles were 
 by rail, ro,2i4 by steamers, 563 in conveyances drawn by 
 horses, 2T4 on horseback, 268 in conveyances drawn or 
 pushed by men; for T48 miles I was carried by men, 64 
 miles I was drawn by bullocks. I made in all 7 sea voyages, 
 short and long, not including the crossing backwards and 
 forwards over the “ silver streak.” 
 
 The actual distance travelled in India and Burma, which 
 occupied five months and six days, was r 2,91 2 miles, of 
 which 9,567 were by rail, 2,088 by steamer, and the 
 remainder as above. 
 
 Of the 194 nights spent away from home nr were 
 spent in houses, 40 in steamers, 31 in the train, and 12 in 
 conveyances of sorts. 
 
 The whole of this very pleasant and, I trust, profitable 
 tour was beautifully rounded in by a Welcome Home 
 Meeting, in the Coalmen’s Mission Hall, in Edinburgh. 
 It was from there that I was sent away with the strengthen- 
 ing words, “ God be with you till we meet again,” and it 
 was there that I was welcomed back by the same kind 
 friends, and many others added, with the stirring strains 
 “ Praise Him ! Praise Him! Jesus, our blessed Redeemer !” 
 
 I have visited more than 40 different mission stations, 
 have seen something of the working of 14 different 
 missionary societies, and have come away profoundly im- 
 pressed with the magnificence of the work that is being 
 done for Christ in India and Burma. There are many 
 places where but little has been accomplished as yet, and 
 
WHAT WILL YOU DO WITH 500,000 LEPERS ? 227 
 
 where the results are but meagre ; but taking the Indian 
 Empire as a whole, remembering that it is a continent, and 
 not a country, that its population of more than 250,000,000 
 is made up of nations and peoples, that it has nearly 300 
 different languages and dialects, these being spoken by 
 Hindus, Mahommedans, Buddhists, Sikhs, Jains, Parsis, 
 Jews, Brahmos, and numberless Devil Worshippers; and 
 that Caste, Degradation, and Enforced Seclusion of Women, 
 Cruelty to Widows, and Child Marriage, are still giants in 
 the land; remembering, I say, all these things, and taking 
 into consideration the smallness of the force put into the 
 field, one stands amazed at the results that have been 
 achieved. 
 
 I have visited twenty-six places, where I have seen in all 
 1425 lepers. There are a few important institutions which 
 I have not seen, such as Rutnagari, Mangalore, &c. ; but 
 all told, I do not suppose that more than 5000 poor 
 sufferers are being provided for throughout the whole of 
 the Empire ; and if it be true that there are 500,000 
 lepers in India, how little of that vast aggregate of 
 human suffering is being reached in any way ! The 
 irresistible conclusion that one comes to is, that sooner 
 or later something must be done to put a check upon this 
 open sore of India. “ Legislate,” says someone. Yes, 
 by all means ; but in the meantime what are you going 
 to do with your half million of lepers ? that is the question. 
 Homes, or Retreats, or Asylums, or whatever you like to 
 call them, should be spread all over the country; and 
 in this great work the Government of the country, 
 enlightened philanthropy, and Christ-like sympathy, must 
 all go hand-in-hand. The Government, through its Local 
 Governments, and the Local Governments through their 
 District Committees and Municipalities, should gradually 
 gather in all the floating leper population into homes or 
 asylums. This must be done rather by persuasion than 
 
22S HOMES FOR THE CHILDREN OF REFERS. 
 
 coercion. Lepers must not, as in old times, be found 
 “guilty of leprosy” and treated as criminals. It must 
 always be remembered that they have rights as well as 
 other men and women, and that their rights ought to be 
 respected. That they can be persuaded to enter asylums 
 has been proved beyond any manner of doubt by the 
 experience of the Mission to Lepers in India. We can, 
 of course, deal with vagrant lepers as such, and with them 
 compulsion might perhaps be used. All Christian and 
 charitable institutions for the benefit of lepers should be 
 encouraged by the Government. Grants in aid should 
 be given to such institutions, and every facility to obtain 
 sites for the building of such institutions should be 
 afforded. 
 
 The Mission to Lepers in India has now seven 
 Leper Asylums of its own, and three Homes for the un- 
 tainted children of lepers ; besides which it aids sixteen 
 institutions, and supports the untainted children in two 
 other places. Altogether it is at work in twenty-one 
 different centres, and in connection with twelve different 
 missionary societies. It has been the first in the field 
 with Homes for the untainted children of lepers. This 
 new development of work amongst lepers is a most 
 important one. It must by no means be taken as proved 
 that all children of lepers have the disease of their 
 unfortunate parents transmitted to them. Medical authorities 
 are not as yet agreed on this matter \ and even if it were 
 1 proved, experience goes to show that if children, as yet 
 showing no marks of the disease, can be removed in time 
 from all leprous surroundings, they will in all probability 
 be saved from falling victims to the sad fate of their 
 parents. Sir Morell Mackenzie, in an able article in the 
 Nineteenth Century for December, 1889, says, “Hereditary 
 contamination has now been shown to be a quantite 
 negligeable.” 
 
EUROPEAN LEPERS. 
 
 229 
 
 Dr. Munro, an acknowledged authority, and a man of 
 deep research, says, “Summing up, therefore, leprosy is not 
 always, but only very rarely, transmitted from generation 
 to generation, has never been proved to be transmitted 
 without contact, is not constantly transmitted even when 
 both parents are diseased, seldom affects more than one 
 child in a family, and those only successively, indepen- 
 dently of age, sometimes the youngest first, after contact, 
 and goes back from child to parent when in contact. From 
 all I have learned of the disease, I can find no proof of 
 even the hereditary predisposition allowed to exist by 
 Virchow, but feel much inclined to believe with Landre, 
 that contagion is the only cause of its propagation.” 
 
 On the above, as well as on some other deeply interesting 
 phases of the leper question, some important extracts from 
 a discussion which took place in the Bombay Medical and 
 Physical Society, in August, 1889, will be found in the 
 Appendix. 
 
 The report of the Leprosy Commission, appointed partly 
 by the Committee of the National Leprosy Fund and partly 
 by the Government of India, is anxiously looked forward 
 to. The members of that Commission have travelled 
 throughout India and Burma, visiting all the different 
 communities of lepers they could meet with, and they have 
 studied the disease in all its aspects with great care and 
 thoroughness, and their report should therefore carry great 
 weight. 
 
 I have been much struck on this tour by the number of 
 European lepers one now hears of in India. I myself have 
 met and conversed with several, and it becomes a growing 
 conviction with me that the time has now come when a 
 large central home should be established in some healthy 
 part of India, where such sufferers from amongst our own 
 kith and kin might find a refuge and a retreat. I know of 
 some very distressing cases at present which might at once 
 
230 “ OPEN THY MOUTH FOR SONS OF AFFLICTION ” 
 
 be placed in such a home. One poor fellow, writing to me 
 lately, says, “God grant that your Mission may see their 
 way to opening out such an institution for the benefit of 
 their own countrymen, for up to this it is only natives who 
 have been provided for to the exclusion of Europeans, 
 who have been left out of all calculation.” Such a home 
 once started would become, I believe, to a great extent 
 self - supporting, as in many instances European lepers 
 would be able and quite willing to pay for their own board. 
 Should this meet the eye of any one who would like to help 
 on such a noble institution, I hope they will write to me on 
 the subject It is a work in which Europeans in India 
 would, I believe, gladly help. 
 
 Partly as the result of this tour the Mission to Lepers in 
 India hope to commence work in six new centres, and 
 in order to carry on that work efficiently it must have 
 a largely- increased income. It must be better known 
 and better supported. If these pages should in any way 
 contribute to either of these results, or should tend in any 
 degree to mitigate the horrors of the unfortunate leper's lot, 
 be he European or native, the writer will be amply repaid 
 for any little trouble he has had in preparing this work for 
 the public. 
 
 “OPEN THY MOUTH FOR THE DUMB 
 IN THE CAUSE OF ALL SUCH AS ARE LEFT DESOLATE.” 
 {Marg. “SONS OF AFFLICTION.”) 
 
 Proverbs xxxi. 8, R.Y. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 231 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 COPY OF PROPOSED LEPER BILL FOR INDIA. 
 
 A Bill to make Provision for the Isolation of Lepers 
 and the Amelioration of their Co7idition. 
 
 Whereas it is expedient to make provision for the isolation of 
 lepers and the amelioration of their condition, it is hereby 
 enacted as follows : 
 
 Title, extent, and i. (i) This Act may be called The Lepers 
 commencement. Act, I 889. 
 
 (2) It shall extend to the whole of British India, and 
 
 (3) It shall come into force at once. 
 
 Definitions. 
 
 O) 
 
 to 
 
 to 
 
 2. (1) In this Act, unless there is something 
 repugnant in the subject or context, 
 
 “leper” means a person with respect to whom a certificate 
 that he is suffering from leprosy has been made by 
 a medical practitioner having from the Local Govern- 
 ment general or special authority, by name or in 
 virtue of his office, to certify as to the existence or 
 non-existence of the disease in any person alleged to 
 be suffering therefrom ; 
 
 “ retreat ” means a place for the time being approved by 
 the Local Government as suitable for the accommo- 
 dation of lepers ; and 
 
 “ District Magistrate ” includes a Chief Presidency 
 Magistrate, and any Magistrate of the first class 
 whom the Local Government may, by name or in 
 virtue of his office, invest with the functions of a 
 District Magistrate for the purposes of this Act. 
 
232 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 3. (1) “Any council, board, committee, corporation, or other 
 body of persons having authority over any 
 municipality, cantonment, or other local area 
 may, notwithstanding anything in any enactment 
 with respect to the purposes to which the funds 
 or other property of such body may be applied, 
 
 Power of local 
 authorities to 
 expend funds on 
 and appropriate 
 property to 
 retreats for lepers. 
 
 (a) establish or maintain, or establish and maintain, or 
 contribute towards the cost of the establishment or 
 maintenance or the establishment and maintenance of 
 a retreat, 
 
 0 b ) with the previous sanction of the Local Government, 
 and subject to such conditions as that Government 
 may prescribe, appropriate any immovable property 
 vested in such body, and either retain and apply it, 
 or transfer it by way of gift or otherwise, as a site for 
 or for use as a retreat. 
 
 (2) Any moneys placed by any enactment for the time being 
 in force at the disposal of a Local Government for the purpose 
 of the establishment or maintenance of hospitals, dispensaries, 
 lunatic asylums, or other institutions for affording medical relief, 
 may, notwithstanding anything in such enactment, be applied 
 to all or any of the purposes mentioned in sub-section (1), 
 clause ( a ). 
 
 4. (1) Any person knowing or believing himself to be suffering 
 Detention Of lepers from le P r0S y who desires to be admitted into a 
 in retreats at their retreat may apply orally or in writing to any 
 own request. Magistrate for admission thereto and for de- 
 tention therein, either for life or for a term of years. 
 
 (2) On receiving such an application the Magistrate, upon 
 proof that the applicant is a leper, may, with the concurrence 
 of the person in charge of the retreat and, where he is not 
 himself the District Magistrate, with the previous sanction 
 of the District Magistrate, record an order authorising the 
 admission of the applicant into the retreat, and his detention 
 therein for the time mentioned in the application. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 233 
 
 5. A District Magistrate may order the arrest of any person 
 
 whom he has reason to believe to be suffering from leprosy, 
 _ „ and who is found asking for alms or wandering 
 
 Detention of 0 0 
 
 lepers in retreats about without any employment or visible means 
 
 otherwise than at 0 f subsistence, and may, upon proof that the 
 their own request. p erson j s a i e per, commit him to a retreat with 
 the concurrence of the person in charge thereof, to be there 
 detained, subject to the provisions of this Act. 
 
 6. The Local Government, or a District Magistrate, or any 
 person having from the Local Government general or special 
 Discharge of lepers authority in this behalf by name or in virtue of 
 from retreats. his 0 fft cej may, subject to the provisions of any 
 rules under this Act, at any time order the discharge from a 
 retreat of any person detained therein under either of the two 
 last foregoing sections. 
 
 7. If a leper detained for life under Section 4, or detained 
 
 in pursuance of an order under Section 5, leaves a retreat 
 Recovery of lepers otherwise than in accordance with an order 
 escaping from of discharge under Section 6, or if a leper 
 
 retreats. detained for a term of years under Section 4 
 
 so leaves a retreat before the expiration of that term, he may 
 be arrested and brought back to the retreat by any police 
 officer or by the person in charge of the retreat or any person 
 acting under his direction. 
 
 Power of Local 
 Government to 
 make rules. 
 
 8. The Local Government may make rules 
 with respect to all or any of the following 
 matters, namely: 
 
 the inspection of places used or proposed to be used as 
 retreats, and the powers which may be exercised by 
 an officer making such an inspection; 
 the management of retreats ; 
 
 the conduct of lepers in retreats maintained wholly or in 
 part by the Government, or by any such body as is 
 referred to in section 3, subsection (1); 
 
 (d) the exercise by District Magistrates and other persons of 
 their authority to discharge lepers from retreats under 
 section 6 ; 
 
 («) 
 
 ifi) 
 
 to 
 
234 
 
 APPEXDIX. 
 
 e the restrictions, and the deprivations of indulgence, to 
 which a leper may be subjected by way of punishment 
 for misconduct in a retreat, or for leaving a retreat in 
 circumstances which justify his being brought back 
 thereto under section 7 ; and, 
 
 (/) generally, the earning out of the purposes of this Act. 
 
 9. A place shall not be approved as suitable for the accommo- 
 dation of lepers unless such provision has been made for the 
 
 lepers from persons leprous or other female and male persons re- 
 of opposite sex. spectively, as the Local Government deems 
 sufficient, nor shall the appropriation of any immovable 
 property by any such body as is referred to in section 3, sub- 
 section (1), be sanctioned for either of the purposes mentioned 
 in clause ( b ) of that sub-section except on the condition that 
 such provision as aforesaid either exists or shall be made, and 
 shall be maintained. 
 
 religions beliefs of under section 4 or section 5 to any retreat where 
 lepers m retreats, attendance at any religious observance, or at any 
 instruction in religious subjects is obligator} - on lepers accom- 
 modated therein. 
 
 segregation of male and female lepers from 
 
 Protection of 
 
 10. No leper shall against his will be sent 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 235 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM PRINTED ACCOUNT OF MEETINGS 
 
 Held by the Bombay Medical and Physical Society 
 on August 2nd, 12 th, and 19th, 1890. 
 
 Brigade-Surgeon W. Gray, President, in the Chair. 
 
 Dr. Balchandra Krishna, at the end of a very able paper 
 on “ Leprosy in Bombay in its Medical and State Aspects,” 
 sums up as follows : — 
 
 After a careful consideration of the facts and figures given 
 above, I feel that I can safely draw the following conclusions : — 
 
 1. That leprosy is prevalent throughout India, but satisfac- 
 
 tory statistics are wanting to show both the increase 
 and decrease. 
 
 2. That it is endemic. 
 
 3. That the weight of evidence is in favour of its hereditary 
 
 transmission. 
 
 4. That of the three forms of the disease, the non-tuber- 
 
 culated or anaesthetic form is most prevalent in India. 
 
 5. That the weight of evidence is not in favour of the con- 
 
 tagiousness of leprosy generally, and particularly of the 
 anaesthetic form, and the tuberculated and mixed forms 
 in their early stages ; but there is some evidence in 
 favour of the latter two being communicable in the 
 ulcerating stage by inoculation of the pus on an 
 abraded surface, either directly from the patient or by 
 the stained clothing or other articles contaminated by 
 the secretions of the leprous sores. 
 
236 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 6. That it is not communicable by aerial infection in the 
 
 same way as small-pox or other exanthemata are. 
 
 7. Granting that the tuberculated and mixed forms are 
 
 contagious in their later stages, still it does not 
 follow that every case of leprosy, indiscriminately, is 
 contagious. 
 
 8. That the diagnosis of the disease is not always easy, 
 
 especially in its early stage. 
 
 9. That no satisfactory treatment of leprosy has yet been 
 
 discovered. 
 
 10. That segregation of the lepers has been found to exercise 
 
 some wholesome check on the propagation of the 
 disease, but not to the extent of stamping it out. 
 
 1 1. That the present excitement or the scare which has taken 
 
 possession of the public mind is groundless. 
 
 12. That a sober, quiet, unbiassed, and scientific investigation 
 
 of the subject is an absolute necessity, which will help 
 the medical profession and the State to grapple with 
 the problem more effectually. 
 
 Viewed by the light of these conclusions, “ The Draft Leper 
 Bill ” circulated by the Government of India for the opinion of 
 the Local Governments seems to be a desirable measure in so 
 far that, when it becomes an Act, it will serve pre-eminently 
 to calm the public mind, which has been excited to the highest 
 pitch, because it will be the means of removing vagrant lepers 
 from the public gaze ; but whether it will serve to stamp out the 
 disease I am not sure. In its present form, however, in my 
 humble judgment, there are some objectionable features in 
 the Bill which, if allowed to remain, will defeat the object of 
 the Government : — 
 
 (1) It is assumed in the Bill that every case of leprosy is 
 
 contagious. 
 
 (2) The diagnosis of leprosy is left to medical men of all 
 
 descriptions, whether qualified or unqualified, to pro- 
 nounce a correct opinion. 
 
 (3) A powerful engine of oppression will be left in the hands 
 
 of the police. 
 
 (4) The Bill seeks to treat lepers as criminals. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 237 
 
 As regards the first objection, I have mentioned that the non- 
 tuberculated form is not contagious, nor the tuberculated and 
 mixed forms in their early stages ; but they may be so, perhaps, 
 in their ulcerating stages, and that the non-tuberculated or the 
 anaesthetic form is most prevalent in India. Hence every case 
 is not contagious, and some modification is necessarily required 
 in the use of the word “ Leper” as used in sub-section I. under 
 the definitions of the Bill. The second objection is graver still : 
 in sub-section I., under “ definitions,” the term “medical practi- 
 tioner” is used ; this apparently includes medical practitioners 
 of all kinds. I have discussed the question at length under the 
 heading of Diagnosis. What hardship will then be entailed 
 upon helpless people ? A poor person may thus be confined, 
 although not suffering from true leprosy, and simply through 
 the mistake of a medical man. As regards the third objection 
 concerning the police, who will be empowered to collect and 
 guard lepers, persons not suffering from leprosy might be 
 arrested for the purpose of extorting money, and the reverse 
 might take place with the same object. They will then drag 
 poor people into custody, and carry them many miles away 
 before they will be seen by the proper authorities and liberated. 
 It will be remembered that lepers are not criminals ; they are 
 unfortunate and miserable beings, and they are to suffer for 
 their misery and not for their crime. Would the State be 
 justified in doing this? Sir William Moore, late Surgeon- 
 General to the Bombay Government, has discussed these 
 points in a very able, practical, and elaborate paper on leprosy. 
 He says that the measure may indirectly diminish leprosy in 
 India, but he does not believe in the segregation of the sexes 
 as a measure for stamping out the disease, for it remains latent 
 for some years and then breaks out. He believes in advancing 
 civilization and sanitation as the only means by which the 
 disease will gradually diminish. It is a redeeming feature of 
 the Bill that it does not propose to interfere with the liberty of 
 rich and well-to-do lepers. It proposes to deal only with 
 vagrant lepers ; but some people, and among them I might 
 mention the Municipal Commissioner and the Health Officer 
 of Bombay, recommend that the rich should be dealt with in 
 the same way as the poor. This would be very unjust, because it 
 
233 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 would necessarily interfere with their liberty, as they do not show 
 themselves so as to attract the attention of the public, and are 
 not likely to prove dangerous. I am not one of those who would 
 say that asylums ought not to be established. I emphatically 
 say that there is necessity for asylums for a helpless leper 
 covered with innumerable and loathsome ulcers, disabled ever}' 
 way, whose sufferings we might put an end to in a short time, 
 who cannot earn his livelihood because of his disabled condi- 
 tion, not to speak of his hideous aspect. 
 
 Dr. Temulji Bicaji Nariman : As for the provisions of the 
 draft Leper Act, I agree in the main with my friend, Dr. 
 Balchandra. I would like the poor leper to have a home to 
 shelter him, and where he could get food and medicine ; but I 
 do not think segregation ought to be compulsory for those who 
 can afford to lie in their own beds. Segregation would not 
 only tend to spread leprosy, but would do an injur}' to those 
 only partially affected, because we know that lepers have been 
 cured by isolating them partially. These affected lepers are put 
 amongst advanced lepers, and they thus stand a serious chance 
 of having the disease increased rather than of having it cured. 
 Government should be very careful how they put this Act into 
 force. 
 
 Dr. D. B. Master : The former speakers having fully 
 touched upon the various headings discussed by Dr. Balchandra 
 in his paper, regarding the causes of leprosy, I will refer only to 
 one question, and that is fish diet, which is spoken of as one of 
 the causes of leprosy. My idea is that fish diet, and more 
 particularly putrid fish diet, cannot cause leprosy any more than 
 any other unwholesome diet. Perhaps a man living entirely on 
 fish diet may so weaken his system that he might become 
 subject to leprosy if exposed to it. Besides that I do not think 
 fish diet ean give rise to leprosy. Then there is the hereditary 
 tendency. Out of four cases I know of, I have not found any 
 hereditary taint. Of course want of evidence is no proof there 
 was no heredity. But I certainly failed to get any history of it. 
 The first case was one in which a middle-aged Parsee was 
 suffering from the tubercular variety. So far as he knew there 
 was no leprosy on his mother’s side. His mother and his wife 
 and daughter lived with him, but none of them suffered from it. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 239 
 
 The second case was one in which a Parsee boy suffered also 
 from the tubercular variety. I failed to find any trace of the 
 disease, either on his father’s or mother’s side. The third case 
 was a similar one, in which there was no trace of heredity. 
 The fourth case was of the anaesthetic variety, in which a 
 woman has been suffering from the disease for the last three 
 years. In this case also I failed to get any trace of heredity. 
 So, although hereditary tendency is admitted to be one of the 
 causes of the disease, there are cases in which we fail to find 
 any trace of hereditary taint. As to contagion, I agree with 
 those of my friends who have said that it is not an easily 
 communicable, disease ; but still I should be very reluctant to 
 spread the belief amongst the public that mere contact with 
 lepers was absolutely without danger. We have not sufficient 
 evidence to show as yet that the disease is not communicable 
 by simple contact ; but if that belief were spread amongst the 
 public, it would tend possibly to do more harm than good by 
 creating a sense of security for which there is so far no sufficient 
 foundation. The students of two schools near the Nacoda 
 Tank, where many lepers congregate, are exposed to germs of 
 the disease with which the tank cannot fail to be contaminated. 
 I would ask those of my friends who argued so strongly that 
 the disease was not contagious, if they would drink out of that 
 tank, or if they would even care to wash their hands in that 
 water ? No, they know very well the germs are there, and they 
 are afraid. Still, many hundreds go there, drink the water, 
 bathe in it, and wash their clothes in it, without contracting the 
 disease. You might, basing your arguments on that fact, say 
 the disease is not contagious ; but scientifically, you must admit 
 it is contagious. As regards the conclusions drawn by my 
 friend Dr. Balchandra regarding the scare, I agree with him, 
 Now I come to the objections Dr. Balchandra has raised to the 
 Draft Act. If this Bill is to be applied to all classes, whether 
 rich or poor, I would certainly object to it, and very strongly 
 too. For, if the Act is to apply to the rich as well as to the 
 poor, it would inflict a great hardship on many ; but if it is 
 meant to apply to the wandering beggars only, it would be a 
 boon to them, and I think no harm would be done, but good. 
 Therefore, I think there ought to be no objection raised on 
 
240 
 
 A PPEXDIX. 
 
 that point. Then again as to Dr. Balchandra's second objection 
 regarding the diagnosis of leprosy. He is afraid it would be 
 put in the hands of quacks i but Government has laid down 
 that no such authority would be given to quacks, or to any who 
 knew nothing about it Government will take care to entrust it 
 to the proper authorities. A third objection is that it would 
 tend to oppression if left in the hands of the police. The same 
 objection was raised to the C. D. Acts, but the complaints were 
 very few and far between. Of course in working an act of 
 that kind, there is some oppression. The Police Act, for 
 example, contains certain clauses which certainly prove annoy- 
 ing sometimes to respectable parties : but then we must for the 
 good of the general public, just put np with it. As regards the 
 fourth objection of Dr. Balchandra, as to the treatment of lepers 
 as criminals, certainly there must be some check put upon 
 them. There surely is not much hardship in that. 
 
 Dr. X. X. Katrak : Medical opinion a few years ago was 
 that leprosy was not contagious, and I began my practice with 
 that idea on my mind. I can remember some two or three 
 years ago I was travelling on a tram car near Crawford Market, 
 when a poor woman was ordered to get down from the car. 
 Her look was suspicions, to say the least of it, and suggested 
 to me that she was a leper. But, poor creature, she was so 
 weak, she had hardly strength in her to get down, nor would 
 any gharry take her. I thought to myself, “ Can this be the 
 nineteenth century- we are living in ? ” The chief point in 
 connection with the treatment of lepers is the great injustice, or 
 rather sheer tyranny, indicted upon these poor and unfortunate 
 sufferers. Ever since then I have tried conscientiously to study 
 the question of leprosy as a contagious disease, and the con- 
 clusion I have come to is, from the evidence we as medical men 
 possess, that it is not contagious. To say the least it is at best 
 very doubtful ; and as we in most cases give the benefit of the 
 doubt, the benefit must be given in this case. It is the conten- 
 tion of most of us that most diseases are caused by what are 
 called insanitary conditions. Well, then, the fulfilment of the 
 provisions of the Act will not free you from the risk of taking 
 leprosy. Our treatment, therefore, ought to be in taking general 
 measures for improved sanitation. Leprosy is not contagious 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 241 
 
 in the sense of ordinary contagious diseases. Taking one-eighth 
 of the Bombay cases to be contagious will bring the number 
 down to fifty or at most a hundred. Even of these hundred 
 cases only one or two per cent, can have been communicated 
 by inoculation. Do we, therefore, require compulsory segrega- 
 tion? Who would support a measure that would so deprive 
 others of liberty of action. One, two, or three cases is no proof 
 of the case, or any warrant for compulsory confinement. How 
 can any one make out that compulsory segregation is not a 
 hardship ? Contagion, I have said, may be possible, but possible 
 to a very slight extent. Leprosy is, for our practical purposes, 
 not contagious. As regards curability, I have no experience, 
 and will leave that topic for others to speak upon. The diag- 
 nosis of leprosy is a very important point. Many gentlemen 
 have given their opinion as to how uncertain is the diagnosis. 
 I know of four or five cases in which people were declared to 
 be suffering from leprosy by a number of medical gentlemen ; 
 but ultimately the mistake was found out. Side by side with 
 the proposal to segregate there ought to be some measure which 
 would tend to diminish the disease, and then I believe the Bill 
 might, to a certain extent, be of some advantage. There is one 
 objectionable feature in this Draft-Act. I am not against segre- 
 gation, though I believe there is some force in what has been 
 said of it, that it may only help to increase the disease. But 
 the character given to these asylums is something of the charac- 
 ter of a gaol. Instead of having them made attractive in the 
 Bill, they have been made actually repulsive. No man in his 
 senses would go into these asylums unless compelled. I believe 
 our Municipal Act is in itself sufficient, for there is a clause in 
 it by which lepers can be prevented from wandering about the 
 streets. Why not take advantage of this measure, and if it 
 fails we might then think of something else? Have these 
 measures been given a fair trial ? All I would add is, that the 
 present scare is a dangerous one, and it certainly is the duty 
 of the Society to give to the public an expression of opinion in 
 some tangible and definite shape. 
 
 Dr. Hughes : I have been very much struck during this dis- 
 cussion with the prominence that has been given to heredity as 
 a cause of leprosy. Well, leprosy is, perhaps, hereditary, but it is 
 
 R 
 
242 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 not as hereditary as syphilis, or even as gout or rheumatism is. 
 We must recollect that children of lepers live in an endemic 
 locality. A good deal of the hereditariness of leprosy depends 
 upon the hereditary bad health that is transmitted to them. 
 This bad health predisposes them to contract leprosy in the 
 same way as they might contract any other disease which may 
 happen to be endemic. In 1873, when at Kolhapur, I made 
 some investigation into the matter, and questioned 125 lepers. 
 These lepers, I may mention, came from the Ghaut district, and 
 were attracted thither by the number of wealthy and charitable 
 persons to be found there. The result of this little investiga- 
 tion was that among those whose parents were affected, I only 
 found seven out of the 125, while grandparents had only been 
 affected to the extent of 7^4 per cent., which gives only about 8 
 per cent, altogether. The principal cause of leprosy seems 
 always to have been some ulcerating disease. The disease, I 
 believe, is contagious. It also is infectious, I think, in the same 
 way as typhoid fever is infectious. It can be taken in with food 
 or water. The form of disease that is most infectious is the 
 ulcerated tubercular variety, from which the bacilli are washed 
 away in comparatively large quantities. This bacillus gets into 
 the drinking water, and people who live in endemic localities 
 are liable to be affected. Comparatively strong and healthy 
 people may escape it for a certain length of time. I know a 
 case where a man, whose father and mother were lepers, who 
 lived for twenty-two years before showing symptoms of the 
 disease. Having these views regarding the hereditariness and 
 contagiousness of leprosy, I do not think it would be necessary 
 in segregating lepers to separate the sexes. If a leprous couple 
 chose to remain together, then let them do so, on the under- 
 standing, however, that the offspring of such a union be 
 removed from the endemic area in which they were born, for 
 whatever may be the sanitary measures, and however perfect 
 they may be, there is a risk of the child receiving some leprous 
 matter from the persons of some of the affected people. Having 
 regard to the contagiousness of leprosy, I should say that not 
 only should all paupers be segregated compulsorily, but all 
 those in any way concerned with the preparation and distri- 
 bution of food should be dealt with in the same way. It might 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 243 
 
 also extend to those who have to do with the handling of clothes, 
 though that is not so important. The well-to-do and more 
 intelligent classes might have special provisions made for them. 
 
 Dr. CoWASJEE HORMUSJEE : From what I have heard and 
 read of Dr. Balchandra’s address, I see that there is a con- 
 sensus of opinion that leprosy is in a certain form contagious, 
 and that therefore the proposed Leper Bill ought to be accepted 
 with certain modifications. I have all along thought that 
 leprosy at a certain stage, particularly the ulcerated form of 
 tuberculated leprosy, is contagious, and is dangerous when 
 lepers, whether vagrants or not, are allowed to associate with 
 other people ; not only that, but it may be communicated to 
 those who have no hereditary taint or are otherwise affected 
 by that disease. I think there are many medical gentlemen in 
 Bombay, whose long experience of thirty years and more would 
 go to show that leprosy in that form is a dangerous disease, and 
 that people suffering from it ought to be segregated. Therefore 
 I think it is the duty of this Society, composed as it is of 
 scientific medical gentlemen, to assist the noble effort of the 
 Government of India by accepting the draft Bill. 
 
 Dr. Kirtikar : Leprosy is to my mind a constitutional 
 disease of a contagious character. It is contagious, not only in 
 that stage which Dr. Balchandra has so well described, but it is 
 contagious in that stage where in the anaesthetic form there are 
 those deep ulcers that burrow through the limbs, and through 
 all the body. These are contagious, and they are practically 
 the more contagious because they escape our observation. A 
 man may come to us with symptoms of anaesthetic leprosy, and 
 with perhaps no other symptom ; but when you proceed to 
 examine him carefully, you may find a little sore. If this man 
 is a cook, or an attendant on the sick, or does anything for 
 others, he infects others without knowing it. That is one reason, 
 I think, why all lepers should be segregated, whatever stage the 
 disease is in. With reference to the social position of the 
 leper, I think it is an admitted fact, having in view the con- 
 tagiousness of the disease, that a leper has always been a 
 man cast out of society. He is degraded in the extreme. 
 Even by an old Hindu law the leper becomes a social outcast, 
 more to be shunned and abhorred than to be treated as a man. 
 
244 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 If we consider the plans of our Government, if we look at the 
 Leper Bill from these points of view, I am sure there is no man, 
 believing in contagion or not, but will have to admit that the 
 lepers must be helped. Will we then not help them ? I hope 
 some of the gentlemen who spoke at the last meeting will grow 
 wiser. They will find Government will be in a position to help 
 those people if none come in the way, and poison the public 
 mind by saying that Government is harsh. Government wants 
 to give them shelter. I say it is our bounden duty to support 
 the working of the Act, or I should say the passing of the Act 
 in the first place. There will be, some are of opinion, practical 
 difficulties in the working of the Act. Dr. Balchandra is afraid 
 there may be a great deal of difficulty in poor lepers being 
 dragged by a police sepoy before a magistrate, in order to 
 procure the necessary certificate. I do not see where there is 
 any practical difficulty. Then in the earlier stages, as it has 
 been pointed out, there may be a difficulty in diagnosis ; but at 
 any rate, diagnosis will not be such a terrible bar, as some have 
 tried to make out, in the direct working of the Act. We all 
 know there is an Insanity Act, and how the civil surgeons of the 
 mofussil deal with the insane who may be found wandering 
 about the streets, or even found in a house. What is done 
 then ? The magistrate of the district is applied to, and he 
 refers to the civil surgeon, who signs a certificate after a careful 
 examination of the patient ; then the man is sent to the lunatic 
 asylum. A similar process, if adopted with regard to leprosy, 
 will not interfere with the civil rights of the individual himself. 
 Not only that, but the civil rights of the surrounding people 
 will be maintained, because Government must look to the 
 interests of those who are healthy, and protect them from 
 contagion. Under these cireumstances it is our duty to 
 unanimously express our approval of the present draft Bill. 
 I do believe that instead of inflicting any punishment upon the 
 poor lepers, this Act will enable our local authorities to give the 
 neglected ones a shelter, which we, be it said to our shame, 
 have so far neglected to offer to them. 
 
 Dr. Weir : I have very few remarks to make beyond giving 
 you a few statistics. I think, whatever difference of opinion 
 there may be amongst us, we are unanimous in thinking that 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 245 
 
 our friend Dr. Balchandra has given us a very interesting 
 paper. I would like, before giving you one or two experiences 
 of my own, to examine, to a certain extent, the facts placed 
 before you ; and previous to entering upon that even, I think it 
 is necessary to remind you that our position as medical men in 
 Bombay is different to our professional position at home. I do 
 not think it has been referred to yet, but I must remind you 
 that the question of the segregation of lepers has already been 
 disposed of by the people of India. There are gentlemen here 
 who know and who have seen, as well as I have seen, that in 
 some villages and different places in India lepers are excluded. 
 Now, as the people have settled the question for themselves 
 from a common-sense point of view, and from experiences 
 extending over ages, if we professional men bring contrary 
 evidence, even though it be proof as conclusive as their expe- 
 rience, they will not receive our testimony. They will lose 
 faith in us. The public come to us for advice and for help. 
 They ask, What are we to do ? I do not think it is sufficient for 
 us to say that certain things should not be done. We must 
 give our views distinctly to the public, and either tell them that 
 they are to do certain things or that they are not. There is 
 another point in which our position is totally different to the 
 profession at home. It is this. We have a much more credu- 
 lous people to deal with than professional men in England 
 have. Is it sufficient to explain to a man in scientific language 
 that he has certain maladies, when your opinion is expected ? 
 We know perfectly well that in India people attach very little 
 value indeed to a mere scientific statement. What they want is 
 to be cured. Our position here to-day should be either to show 
 to the people that we know more than themselves, or to admit we 
 do not. I would not attach too much importance to one case of 
 inoculation as sufficient to establish a disease as contagious. 
 
 The President : Before Dr. Balchandra replies, as of course 
 he has a right to do, I think it would be useful were I to put 
 before you, as briefly and as plainly as possible, what I consider 
 to be the result of the debate. To take the subject according 
 to the headings we agreed upon there is first the cause. Well, 
 as regards heredity, I think the opinion in favour of that as 
 a mode of propagation is overwhelming. A great many of the 
 
24-5 
 
 APPEXDIX. 
 
 speakers are certainly in favour of it. As regards contagion, 
 which is the main bone of contention — in fact, it is the point 
 upon which the whole discussion chiefly turned, and upon 
 which the proposed legislation is based — I think the majorin' 
 of the speakers are contagionists. I have counted them up, 
 and out of fourteen speakers eleven are clearly contagionists. 
 But even- one does not agree as to the degree of contagion. 
 We have varieties of contagionists. Of the anti-contagion ists, 
 I take it Dr. Temuljee is one of them, but at the same time he 
 appears somewhat in doubt. Dr. Khory is the only one who 
 spoke strongly as an anti-contagionist. He regards leprosy 
 as not contagious at all. On the question of curability , those 
 who touched on the treatment of lepers left that unmentioned. 
 I think you will all agree with me that no cure has so far been 
 discovered. Then as regards social position and social treat- 
 ment, no one has alluded to that point except Dr. Kirtikar, and 
 he tells us that the old Hindu law made vagrants of lepers. 
 Whether the leper population is increasing, no one has been 
 able to give us any proofs. We have no statistics or leper 
 census. As regards Bombay, it is the opinion of most people 
 that there are a larger number of lepers in the city now than 
 there were some years ago ; and the main cause of this is 
 the existence here of a number of wealthy and charitable- 
 minded gentlemen ; for lepers, as you know, will flock to where 
 they will or can hope to get charitable relief. Then as to 
 whether lepers are a public danger. I think the general 
 consensus of opinion here is that they are not a public danger 
 — at least, not a danger in the sense that the public themselves 
 view it. The public are in a state of panic on the subject, both 
 here and at home ; but we all know that the public are some- 
 times a very foolish and often a very' ignorant body. They are 
 now in a condition of panic, simply because they do not 
 understand anything about the subject. Then as regards the 
 provisions of the Draft Leper Act. Nobody, so far as I can 
 recollect, has touched on the details of the Act, except 
 Dr. Balchandra himself. But it seems to me that the general 
 opinion of the meeting is in favour of the Act. I think, at any 
 rate, every speaker is to some extent in favour of the Act. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Abdullah, no, in. 
 
 Aborigines, 87, 99. 
 
 Acworth, H. A., Esq., 221, 223. 
 Adie, Miss, 4. 
 
 Ah Syoo, 160. 
 
 Albert Victor, 224. 
 
 Alexandra School, 53. 
 
 Allen, Mr., 196, 212. 
 
 Allahabad, 118-121, 177. 
 Alleppey, 216. 
 
 Almora, 73-83, 107. 
 
 Ambala, 54-59, 63, 64. 
 
 Ambala Leper Asylum, 54. 
 American Baptist Mission, 155. 
 American Presbyterian Mission, 
 52, 54, 68, 1 15, 1 16, 120. 
 American V. P. Mission, 23-28. 
 Amherst, 15 7- 159. 
 
 Amritsar, 40, 52, 101, 1 15. 
 Anglo-Indians, 2. 
 
 Andrews, Miss, 116. 
 
 Anglo - Indian Evangelization 
 Society, 220. 
 
 Answered Prayer, 9. 
 
 Arconum, 220. 
 
 Armstrong, Rev. W. F., 158, 
 160-163, 169. 
 
 Army Temperance Movement, 
 220. 
 
 Asansol, 121, 144-147, 176. 
 
 Aziz Begum, 1 16. 
 
 Baba Lakhan, 33. 
 
 Bailey- Wells, Mr., 176. 
 
 Bairagi Gurus, 91. 
 
 Baramulla, 12, 22. 
 
 Bareilly, 72, 85, 88. 
 
 Barkhurdar Khan, Dr., 41-44, 47 , 
 48, no, hi. 
 
 Barr, Dr., 26. 
 
 Barrows, Miss, 163, 169. 
 
 Basel Mission, 218. 
 
 Bateson, Rev. Mr., 220. 
 
 Beatson, Dr., 149. 
 
 Beatty, Mr. and Mrs., 148, 149. 
 Becker, Rev. Mr., 169. 
 
 Bengal Coal Company, 176. 
 Bennett, Mrs., 1 70. 
 
 Bestall, Rev. A. H., 155-157. 
 Bhagulpore, 147- 150. 
 
 Bhawani, 82. 
 
 Bheemtal, 72, 73, 85. 
 
 Bhola Khan, 36. 
 
 Bhut, The, 136. 
 
 Bishop, Colonel and Mrs., 84, 85. 
 Blind, The, 193. 
 
 Boileau, Sir Francis and Lady, 
 
 I 52 . 155 - 
 
 Bombay, Arrival at, 4. 
 
 Bond, Mr. and Mrs., 83. 
 
 Bowdon, 200. 
 
 Brayton, Mr., 170. 
 
 Brindisi, Arrival at, 3. 
 
 Brown, Mr. and Mrs., 150. 
 Budaon, 88. 
 
 Bruske, Mr. and Mrs., 121. 
 Budden, Rev. J. H. (the late), 76. 
 Budden, Miss Mary, 76, 77, 81-83. 
 Bulkley, Mrs., 162, 163. 
 
 Bulloch, Rev. G. M., 76-78, 81. 
 Burden-bearers, 197. 
 
 Burdwan, 174, 1 75. 
 
 Burma, 87. 
 
 Burmans, 167, 1 68. 
 
 Butler, Dr. Fannie (the late), 17, 
 150. 
 
 Byers, Mr. and Mrs., 145, 147, 
 176, 177. 
 
24S 
 
 IXDEX. 
 
 Calicut, 21S. 220. 
 
 Calicut Leper Asylum, 219. 
 Calcutta, 74, 1 70 -1 74. 
 
 Calcutta Leper Asylum, 172, 1 73. 
 Canal, Accident in, 3. 
 
 Carleton, Dr. Jessie, 54, 55, 5S, 
 64, 11S. 
 
 Carr, Miss, 162. 
 
 C.E.Z.M.S., 17, 30, in, 149, 
 I 5 °- 
 
 C.G.P. Memorial Home, 205. 
 Chakoti, 11. 
 
 Ckakrata, 6S. 
 
 Chandag Asylum, 72. 
 
 Chandausi Christian Mela. S6, 
 92-95. 
 
 Chatterton, Mr., 204, 206, 213. 
 Children of Lepers, 106-109. ;2 3 - 
 Children’s Home, Neyoor, 203. 
 Chisholm, Mr. and Mrs., 213-216. 
 Chota Nagpore, S7. 
 
 Chowksy, Dr., 222. 
 
 Christaram, 146. 
 
 Christians, Our duty to, 99. 
 Christian Street, 207. 
 
 Christie, Mr., 52. 
 
 Chumars, S7. 
 
 Chumba, 28, 41-4S, 61. 
 
 Chumba Leper Asylum, 41-47. 
 Church, A primitive, 35. 
 
 Clark, Dr. Henry Martyn, 40, 53. 
 Clark, Rev. Robert, 40, 53. 
 
 Clay, Miss, 114. 
 
 Clifford, Rev. Mr., 150, 15 1. 
 
 C. M. S., 101, 102, 109, 120, 145, 
 147-150, 1 70- 1 72. 
 
 Coalmen’s Mission Hall, 226. 
 Cochin, 218. 
 
 Colachal, 204, 207, 209, 213-215. 
 Coles, Rev, Mr., 157, 158, 170, 173. 
 Coley, Rev. H.. 75. 
 
 Colin Campbell, Col., 158. 
 CommunioD with Lepers, 78. 
 Corbett, Miss, 25, 
 
 Cottar, 197. 
 
 Coverdale, Rev. Mr., 15, 19, 2t. 
 Cowley, Miss, 175. 
 
 C. P. Memorial Leper Home, 205. 
 Cullen, Rev. J. A., 14S-150. 
 
 Dakjhu, 61. 
 
 Dalh, Rev. Mr., 133, 139. 
 
 Dalhousie, 41, 49. 
 
 Dasaundhi, 55. 
 
 Dayamony, 125-127. 
 
 Dease. Dr., 72. 
 
 De Courcy, W. B., Esq., 51. 
 Dehra, 65-69. 
 
 Dehra Lej>er Asylum, 65. 66. 220. 
 Denny, T. A., Esq., 11S. 
 de Souza, Rev. C. W., 96, 97. 
 Devia, 48. 
 
 Danouta, 50. 
 
 ; Dharmsala, 49-51, 53. 
 
 Dharmsala Leper Asylum, 51. 
 Dharmsala, The, Bombay, 223. 
 Didar Singh. 37. 
 
 Dina Nath, Mrs., ill. 
 
 Dingah, 38, 39. 
 
 Domel, 10. 
 
 Dulai, 10, 11. 
 
 Duneira, 40. 
 
 Duthie, Mr. and Mrs., 1 95-201. 
 Dyer, Rev. and Mrs., 152, 155. 
 
 Earrings, 207. 
 
 Edgeley, Miss, 53. 
 
 Education, Higher, 9S. 
 
 Edwardes, Herbert, 11S. 
 Edwards, Mr. and Mrs., 15 1, 152, 
 
 171. i? 2 - 
 
 Edwards, Miss, 174. 
 
 Ekhert, Rev. Mr., 133. 
 
 I Ellwell, Mrs., 167. 
 
 European Lepers, 66, 67, 229, 230. 
 Evans, Rev., 53, 55, 69, 71. 
 Ewing, Dr., 116. 
 
 Fairclough, Rev., 15S. 
 
 F. E. E. Society, 116. 
 
 Ferguson, Rev. \V., 44, 47. 
 Ferrier, Rev., 121. 
 
 Forman, Dr. and Mrs., 1 16. 
 
 Free Church Mission, 173. 
 Freemantle, Admiral, 155, 15S. 
 Fry, Dr. and Mrs., 201-214. 
 
 Gamnu, 42, 45, 47, 61. 
 
 Ganga Ram, 54. 
 
 Garhi, 10, II. 
 
 General Assembly’s Institution, 
 151, 170-172. 
 
 Gibson, Miss, 1 16. 
 
 Golak Nath, Rev., 113. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 249 
 
 Goodwin, Miss, ill. 
 
 Gordon, Miss, 23, 26, 34. 
 Gossner’s Mission, 121, 130, 133. 
 Gow, Miss, 21. 
 
 Gracious Promises, 7. 
 
 Grant, Mr., 148, 149. 
 
 Greenfield, Miss, 116, 117. 
 
 Grime, Mrs., 53, 54. 
 
 Grimwood, Miss, 110, in. 
 Guilford, Rev. E., 61, 101-110, 
 1 13, 1 14. 
 
 Gujranwala School, 28. 
 
 Gujrat, 2, 23, 36-38. 
 
 Gwala, The, 138. 
 
 Hacket, Mr. and Mrs., 120. 
 Hahn, Rev. F., 133-144. 
 
 Haitz, Miss, 150. 
 
 Hacker, Mr., 213. 
 
 Hakim Singh, Rev., 36. 
 
 Hall, Mr. and Mrs., 170, 173. 
 Hall, Miss, 149. 
 
 Hanbury, no, III, 114. 
 
 Hannah, A Modern, 141. 
 Haskew, Dr. Jane, 17, 18. 
 Haswell, Miss, 159, 162. 
 
 Hati, 11. 
 
 Harvest Thanksgiving, 209. 
 Hector, Rev., 173. 
 
 Herron, Rev. D., 64, 68. 
 Hewlett, Miss, 53. 
 
 Hilson, Surgeon-General, 128. 
 Hindustani Pupils, 4. 
 
 Hobbs, Miss, 114. 
 
 Hubert, Mr. Mrs. and Miss, 4. 
 Hull, Miss, 18. 
 
 Hunterpore Church, 35. 
 Hutchison, Dr., 6, 29-32. 
 
 I.F.N.S., 17, 116. 
 
 Ilahi Bakhsh, 57, 101. 
 Imad-ud-Din, Dr., 53. 
 
 “Indian Keswick,” 86. 
 
 India's Women, in. 
 
 Jalalpore, 38. 
 
 James, 201-204, 208. 
 
 Jammu, 31, 34, 38. 
 
 Jandiala, 114, 115. 
 
 Janvier, Miss, 54, 55, 58, 63, 64. 
 Jawahir, 61. 
 
 Jeffrys, Mr. and Mrs., 41. 
 
 Jemske, 132, 144. 
 
 Jhelum, The, 10. 
 
 Jinriksha, 201. 
 
 John Bishop Memorial Hospital, 
 
 17 - 
 
 Johnstone, Mr. and Mrs., 120. 
 Jonas, Miss, no, 114. 
 
 Jonathan, 145, 167, 177 - 179 , 182, 
 221, 224. 
 
 Judson, 169. 
 
 Kadamaliekunnoo, 213, 214. 
 Kalka, 60, 63. 
 
 Kali Nath, Dr., 7, 
 
 Kamuli, 81, 82. 
 
 Kanaya, 42, 61. 
 
 Karens, The, 87, 163-166. 
 Kasauli, 60. 
 
 Katgodam, 72, 85. 
 
 Kelly, Rev. Mr., 4. 
 
 Kelso, Rev. A. P., 64, 98, 101. 
 Kember, Mr., 193. 
 
 “ Khare Kandhe,” 53. 
 
 Kindness by the way, 13. 
 
 Kishn Ganga, 10. 
 
 Knowles, Mr. and Mrs., 20-22. 
 Knowles, Mr., L. M. S., 213. 
 Kodu, 43, 47, 49. 
 
 Kohala, 10, 22. 
 
 Kols, 87. 
 
 Kupfernagel, Mr., 121. 
 
 Kujiar, 41, 48. 
 
 Lace Industry, 196. 
 
 Lamb, Rev., 171. 
 
 Lang, Dr. Marshall, 38. 
 
 Landour, 66. 
 
 Landre, 229. 
 
 Leaf, Mr. and Mrs., 4. 
 
 Leitch, Dr., 213. 
 
 Lemmon, Mr. and Mrs., 52. 
 Leonard, Rev., 96. 
 
 Leper Children, 133. 
 
 Leper Mission, 4, 71, 97, 102, 
 104-107, 109, 121, 148, 172, 
 228, 230. 
 
 Leper Village, 116. 
 
 Leprosy Commission, 129, 229. 
 Lester, Mrs., 41. 
 
 Liebendorfer, Dr. and Mrs., 218, 
 220. 
 
 Lodiana, 1 14- * 16. 
 
25 ° 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lohardugga, 133-142. 
 
 Lois, 204. 
 
 London Missionary Society, 76, 
 197 - 
 
 Low Caste, 34, 89, 98, 99. 
 
 Lucas, Dr., 1 18-121. 
 
 Lytle, Rev. Mr., 23. 
 
 Macdonald, Dr. and Mrs., 173. 
 Mackennal, Dr., 200. 
 
 Mackenzie, Sir Morell, 228. 
 MacKichan, Miss, 36. 
 Mackintosh, Mr., 69. 
 
 MacLaren, Dr., 65, 67. 6S. 
 MacLeod, Donald, 118. 
 McCahen, Miss, 28. 
 
 McCall, Mr. and Mrs., 169. 
 
 “ Mad upon their idols,” 210. 
 Madras Leper Hospital, 189, 190, 
 220. 
 
 Mampol, 49. 
 
 Mandalay, 1 55— 1 5S, 
 
 Manoah, Pastor, 68. 
 
 Manockjee Petit, SirDinshaw, 224. 
 Mark, Babu, 51, 52. 
 
 Martin, Dr., 27, 34. 
 
 Matunga Leper Asylum, 221-224. 
 Maulmain, 158-169. 
 
 Meakin, Miss, 76. 
 
 Medical Mission Hospital, Neyoor, 
 202. 
 
 Medical Mission Hospital, Srin- 
 agar, 15, 18. 
 
 Methodist Episcopal Mission, 69, 
 86, 88, 96. 
 
 Mir Ali, 134. 
 
 Miriam, 81. 
 
 Mission Hospitary, 203. 
 
 Mitchell, Dr. Ellen, 158, 162, 163. 
 Monegur Choultry, 189. 
 Montgomery, Robt., 118. 
 
 Moon’s System, 193. 
 
 Moradabad, 69, 70, 88. 
 Moradabad Leper Asylum, 69, 70. 
 Morrison, Rev. G. W., 28. 
 Morrison, Rev. Mr. and Mrs., 171, 
 173 - 
 
 Morrison, Rev. R. and Mrs., 1 1 8. 
 Morrison, Rev. W. J. P., 63, 64. 
 Mulvany, Miss, 1 74. 
 
 Mundaikadu, 209, 2X2, 213. 
 Monro, Dr., 229. 
 
 Murree, 9, 10. 
 
 Mussoorle, 66. 
 
 Musuwa, 75, 76, 83. 
 
 Muttam Light House, 204. 
 
 Muttra City, 90, 91. 
 
 Muzaffar Naggar, 98. 
 
 Nagercoil, 194-201. 
 
 National Leprosy Fund Com- 
 mittee, 229. 
 
 Natthu Mai, Rev., 36. 
 
 Nepal, 72. 
 
 Neve, Dr. N., 12, 15-19, 21, 22. 
 Neve, Dr. E. , 15. 
 
 Newman, Miss, 18. 
 
 Newton, Dr. John (the late) 61, 
 120. 
 
 Newton, Rev. J. (the late), 7. 
 Newton, Mrs., 120, 121. 
 
 Newton, Rev. E. and Mrs., 118. 
 Neyoor, 201-214. 
 
 Nottrott, Dr., 130, 133. 
 
 Nulla Thumby, 200. 
 
 Nurpur, 49, 51. 
 
 Nynee Leper Asylum, 119. 
 
 Oakley, Mr. and Mrs., 82. 
 
 Olive Branch, 3. 
 
 Osborne, Rev. Dennis, 97. 
 
 Oudh, 96. 
 
 Overcoat, Incident of, 2. 
 
 Padiya, 66-68. 
 
 Pakianadan, 215. 
 
 Palamcotta Harvesting, 193. 
 Pariahs, 87. 
 
 Parker, Dr., 69, 71, 86, 92, 94. 
 Parslee, Miss, 114. 
 
 Paterson, Rev. McCheyne, 36, 38. 
 Pathankote, 40, 53. 
 
 Pattan, 14, 23. 
 
 Pentecost, Dr., 1 5 1. 
 
 Peora, 73, 84, 85. 
 Persian\Vheel,AnIllustration, 100. 
 Pineapples, 214. 
 
 Pinniger, Miss, 149. 
 
 Pithoragarh Leper Asylum, 72. 
 Plumb, Miss, 23, 35. 
 
 Pogson, The Misses, 1 1 6. 
 
 Poli, 41, 42, 47. 
 
 Pulayas, 87. 
 
 Pullar, Mr., 152. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 251 
 
 Punjab Mission News, 23. 
 
 Punjab Village Mission, ill, 114. 
 Purulia, 121-129, 143. 
 
 Purulia Leper Asylum, 122-129. 
 
 Queen the, Prayer for, 56. 
 
 Quilon, 215. 
 
 Quin, Mr. 130. 
 
 Rainsford, Miss, 17, 18. 
 
 Ralla Ram, Pastor, 9. 
 
 Ram Chandar Bhose, Mr., 173. 
 Ramgarh, 73, 85. 
 
 Rampore, 11, 12, 22. 
 
 Ram Ram, 209. 
 
 Ramsay, Sir Henry, 72, 76, 77, 
 S3- 
 
 Ranchi, 1 30-132, 143, 144. 
 Rangoon, 152-155. 
 
 Ranigunj, 176. 
 
 Rattia, 55-57. 
 
 Rawal Pindee, 6, 22. 
 
 Red Sea, A Day in, 3. 
 
 Reformed Presbyterian Church, 
 68, 98. 
 
 Richards, Rev. W. J., 216. 
 
 Rodu, 42, 45, 61. 
 
 Rohilkhund, 88, 93, 96. 
 
 Roman Catholics, 25, 26, 208. 
 Rurki, 96, 98. 
 
 Rurki Leper Asylum, 96, 97. 
 
 Roy Bareilly, 96. 
 
 Royal Infirmary, Edinburgh, 209. 
 Row, Rev. Mr., 220. 
 
 Saharanpore, 64, 65, 69, 98. 
 Saharanpore Leper Asylum, 64, 65 . 
 “Sahib Ji, I should like to be 
 baptised,” 56. 
 
 Sampson, Miss, 174. 
 
 Samuel, 204. 
 
 Sandys, Rev. Mr., 175. 
 Santalistan, 87. 
 
 Scorgie, Miss, 4, 6, 23. 
 
 Scotland, Church of, 23, 28-39, 
 171. 
 
 Scotland, Church of, Ladies’ 
 Association, 22, 29, 30, 36, 37. 
 Scott, Mrs., 4. 
 
 Scott, Rev. C. G., M.D., 98. 
 Scott, Rev. J. E., 88. 
 
 Sealkote, 23-26. 
 
 Sebethai, 204. 
 
 Seringhatu Village, 140. 
 
 Sharif Barkhurdar Khan, Miss, 
 110, in. 
 
 Sheldon, Miss, M.D., 71. 
 Sherman, Mr. and Mrs., 215. 
 Shib Chandar Banarji, 148. 
 
 Shoay Dagon Pagoda, 153. 
 Shopkeeper, A Leper, 208. 
 
 Simla, 63. 
 
 Slater, Miss, 163. 
 
 Smith, Rev. A. W., 176. 
 
 Sohan Lai, Rev., 41, 42, 45, 47, 
 48. _ 
 
 Sorabji, Miss, 220. 
 
 S.P.G., 132, 155. 
 
 Srinagar, 14-22. 
 
 Srinagar Leper Asylum, 16. 
 Stevens, Rev. Mr., 160, 162, 169, 
 Stevenson, Miss, 36. 
 
 Stuart, Dr. and Mrs., 23. 
 
 Stuntz, Mr., 173. 
 
 Subathu, 60-63. 
 
 Subathu Leper Asylum, 60-63. 
 Sumitanges, 197. 
 
 Summers, Mr., 221, 222. 
 Swainson, Miss, 193. 
 
 Sweeper Caste, 90. 
 
 Syrian Community, 208, 
 
 Tahal Singh, Rev., 35. 
 
 Tahal Singh, Miss, 35. 
 
 Tahsildar, The, 13. 
 Takht-i-Sulaiman, 19. 
 
 Tarn Taran, 57, 61, 101-114. 
 Tarn Taran Leper Asylum, 10 1- 
 110. 
 
 Taylor, Miss, 163. 
 
 Telfer, Mr. and Mrs., 1 73. 
 
 Texts, The Lepers’, 202. 
 Thackwell, Rev., 68. 
 
 Thomas, Dr., 21. 
 
 Thomas, Rev., 155. 
 
 Thompson, Mrs., 207-209, 214. 
 Thoob’yazahs, 160. 
 
 Touching Sights, 79. 
 
 Travancore, 87. 
 
 Trombay, 224. 
 
 Uffmann, Rev. H., 121-129, 144, 
 145 - 
 
 Ullmann, Rev. J. F., 7, 9, 22. 
 
252 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Unna’s Treatment, 68, 77. 
 
 Uri, 11. 
 
 Valpy, Miss, 175. 
 
 Village Sunday School, 199. 
 Vinton, Mr. and Mrs., 169. 
 Virchow, 229. 
 
 Walker, Rev. W., 41, 46. 
 
 Wann, Rev. Mr., 171. 
 
 Warren, Mrs., 52. 
 
 Waugh, Mr. and Mrs., 23. 
 Wauton, Miss, 53. 
 
 Wazirabad, 6, 28, 36. 
 
 Weber, Rev. Mr., 148. 
 
 Wesleyan Mission, 153, 176. 
 
 “ Where are there any feet ? ” 65. 
 
 Wherry, Miss, 68. 
 
 White, Miss, M.D., 23, 27. 
 Whitehead, Miss, 162, 167. 
 Wigram, Rev. F. E., 217. 
 
 Wilkie, Mr. and Mrs., 149. 
 Winston, Mr. and Mrs., 155-158. 
 Wyckoff, Rev. B. D., 54, 55, 59, 
 60, 63, 64, 1 14, 1 15, 1 18. 
 
 Xavier, 197. 
 
 “Yes Sahib, perfect peace,” 119. 
 Youngson, Rev. J. W., 6, 23, 29, 
 3i, 33. 34. 36- 
 Yovan, Rev. V., 204. 
 
 Zechariah, Rev., 205. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 JOHN F. SHAW AND CO., 48, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. 
 
FORM OF BEQUEST, 
 
 I bequeath to “ The Mission to Lepers in India ” the sum 
 
 of 
 
 sterling , free of legacy duty, for which legacy the receipt of 
 the Hon. Treasurer or of the Hon. Secretary, for the time 
 being, of the said Society, shall be a sufficiejit discharge to 
 my executors ; and I direct that such legacy, and the duty 
 thereon, shall be paid exclusively out of my pure personal 
 
 estate. 
 
OBJECT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Ulisstott la lepers tit JJnbk. 
 
 • 
 
 T N India there are said to be 500,000 Lepers — men, women, 
 -L and children — victims of the most terrible disease known 
 to humanity. This Society seeks to proclaim to them the 
 blessed Gospel of the Lord Jesus Christ, and, as far as possible, 
 to relieve their dreadful sufferings, and provide for their simple 
 wants. 
 
 MEANS EMPLOYED. 
 
 In addition to its own Asylums and Children’s Homes the 
 Society endeavours to utilise as much as possible existing 
 agencies, by assisting Leper Asylums already established, and 
 providing Missionaries with the means for carrying on Christian 
 w^ork in connection therewith. It makes grants of money 
 towards the building of new Asylums, Prayer-rooms, See. ; and 
 in many instances provides for the entire support of Lepers. 
 
 HOW IT IS SUPPORTED. 
 
 This work is entirely supported by voluntary contributions. 
 Its needs are laid before Christian people, in reliance upon 
 Him who gave it as a special sign of His ministry that the 
 Lepers were cleansed ; and as He provides the funds the work 
 is carried on. The Lord has greatly blessed the efforts of the 
 Society in the conversion of souls, and it is contemplated 
 largely to extend its operations, should the funds be provided. 
 £6 will support a Leper for one year, and £20 will supply 
 a Christian teacher to an Asylum for the same period. About 
 ^150 to £300 will build an Asylum. ^50 to ^100 will build a 
 Home for the children of Lepers. ^4 will support a child 
 for a year. 
 
 Secretary and Superintendent — 
 
 Wellesley C. Bailey, Esq., 
 
 17, Glengyle Terrace, Edinburgh. 
 
MISSION TO LEPERS IN INDIA. 
 
 Patroness. 
 
 The Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava. 
 President. 
 
 His Grace the Lord Archbishop of Dublin. 
 Vice-Presidents. 
 
 Rev. F. E. Wigram, m.a., Hon. Sec. C.M.S. 
 
 Rev. W. Park, m.a., Convener of Foreign Missions, Irish 
 Presbyterian Church. 
 
 Rev. R. Wardlaw Thompson, Foreign Secretary London 
 Missionary Society. 
 
 The Right Hon. Lord Polwarth. 
 
 The Hon. Sir Henry Ramsay, c.b., k.c.s.i. 
 
 Sir Monier Monier Williams, k.c.i.e., d.c.l. 
 
 Committee. 
 
 Major-General Beatty, 2i,Vesey Place, Kingstown, Co. Dublin. 
 Surgeon-General De Renzy, C.B., 18, Clyde Road, Dublin. 
 
 R. Cathcart Dobbs, Esq., c.e., Greystones, Co. Wicklow. 
 Rev. William Dowse, m.a., 51, York Road, Kingstown. 
 
 Rev. Thomas Good, b.d., Eglinton Road, Donnybrook, Dublin. 
 Rev. Ralph W. Harden, b.a., 25, Grosvenor Road, Rathmines, 
 Dublin. 
 
 Rev. Gilbert Mahaffy, m.a., St. Paul’s Parsonage, North 
 Circular Road, Phoenix Park, Dublin. 
 
 Rev. Canon Neligan, D.D., 5, Dartmouth Road, Dublin. 
 
 Miss Alexander, Richmond Villa, Monkstown, Co. Dublin. 
 Mrs. Charles Pease, Willow Park, Booterstown, Co. Dublin. 
 Miss M. A. SMITH, 24, Northumberland Road, Dublin. 
 
 Hon. Secretary. 
 
 Miss C. E. PlM, Alma, Monkstown, Co. Dublin. 
 
 Hon. Secretary for India. 
 
 Rev. David Herron, Chakrata, N. W. P., India. 
 
 Hon. Treasurer. 
 
 Graves S. Eves, Esq., 18, Burlington Road, Dublin. 
 Secretary and Superintendent. 
 
 Wellesley C. Bailey, Esq., 17, Glengyle Terrace, Edinburgh. 
 
Just Published. Price Threepence. 
 
 WITH PORTRAITS AND GROUP OF LEPERS. 
 
 THE STORY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 JHltsston to l.cpm tit Xithta. 
 
 BY 
 
 H. S. CARSON, 
 
 AUTHOR OF “FROM LOOM TO LAWYER’S GOWN.” 
 
 Price I 6, seined; and 2 6, cloth boards; with four illustrations. 
 
 A GLIMPSE 
 
 AT THE 
 
 INDIAN MISSION-FIELD 
 
 AND LEPER ASYLUMS. 
 
 WELLESLEY C. BAILEY. 
 
 LONDON : JOHN F. SHAW & Co., 48, PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 

 
 . 
 
 ' .!• 
 
 I