.f-/. 4 ; ; ; \ . t §||i M ^^^^m-'-^^ "'. 1): ' LIBRARY OK THK PRiai€ETO]V, ]«. J. TuiWTlOX (.>!•• SAMITKT. AONKW > K I. P H I V . PA k No. 18.t^ Lptter *2-^ '*f^ _ ^»9 ^,-^;5^(? enut milk, and cooked, constitutes the principal food of the Malays and Nyas men. Large numbers of the sea-slug, so much admired by the Chinese, are taken on the coast, and sold at an exorbitant price. " The manufacture of cocoa-nut oil may be called the business of the inhabitants. Twelve or four- teen good cocoa-nuts will make a quart of oil, which sells to the Chinese at the rate of twenty cents per gallon. Even at this low price, so abundant are the materials, that some of the Nyas have not only a competence, but may be esteemed wealthy. "The climate is said to be unhealthy. The truth of this will not be questioned if we look a moment at the condition of the soil. Most of the islands are low and swampy ; the soil covered with vegetation, which is constantly springing up and MUNSON AND LYMAN. 133 decaying. With the exception of here and there an acre occupied by a Nyas village, the whole is a wilderness. The effluvia arising from such a mass of decaying matter, especially from the plantations of sago, must contaminate the atmosphere, and load it with pestilence. However, I am fully per- suaded, that were some elevated position chosen, (and nothing is necessary but to go and take pos- session,) and the forest cleared away, it would be found as healthy as any station in a tropical cli- mate. The most destructive pestilence, that has ever visited these islands, is the small pox. "A Nyas village is altogether sui generis. A suitable place is selected at a short distance from the sea-shore. An oblong square, (perhaps one hun- dred yards by seventy-five,) is enclosed by a sub- stantial stone wall, seven or eight feet high, and as many in thickness. Next to the shore is a narrow gate-way, strongly defended. The two ends, and the back side of the square, are occupied by houses. On the right or left, near the gate-way, is a large well, fifty or sixty feet in circumference, and ten deep. Every one who draws water, descends into it by a flight of steps ; fills his bamboo, and re-as- cends by the same means. Near the well is an enclosure, designed as a bathing-house for females. The well, &,c., are the property of the village. The head-man's house usually occupies the middle of the row of houses that front the gate. The houses are 12 134 MEMOIRS OF all united, and connected with each other by small doors. They are raised on posts, eight or ten feet from the ground. They are all of one story. Be- sides the back room, which is occupied mostly by the females, there is but one room to each house. This is a large hall, with the entrant at one side. On the front is an elevation extending across it, and above that another, which answers for a seat. Near this is a sort of lattice-work across the front of the house, which answers for a window. The whole is surmounted by a roof altogether dispropor- tionate, being as high as all the rest of the building. Near the house of the head-man is a stone, elevated two or three feet, as a stand, before which the village meetings are held. In the centre of the yard is the village god, placed in a little enclosure, beneath an attap roof. The remainder of the enclosure is a common, kept very neat and free from rubbish, for purposes of walking and athletic exercise. " On the whole, for neatness of design, for skill in workmanship, and cleanliness, a Nyas village far surpasses any thing I have ever seen among the Malays, or had ever expected from a people who are still ranked among barbarians. " The customs of the Nyas men are no less diverse from those of all other nations, than their habitations. Every extraordinary event among them is attended by a feast. Indeed, I doubt whe- ther there are any occurrences among them that are MUNSON AND LYMAN. 135 considered proper occasions of mourning. A birth, or death ; a marriage, or the visitation of a pesti- lence, are all attended by feasting. Scenes of festi' vity are accompanied with music and dancing. Each village owns a number of hogs in common ; and when a great feast is made, several villages unite ; each furnishing several hogs. After enough are killed for the occasion, each village receives of the remainder according to the number sent. The division is always made without dissatisfaction or disturbance. " Their mode of burying is peculiar. The body is kept two days after death, when it is deposited in a neat coffin, made much after the European man- ner, and carried to the place of deposit. " Their grave-yards, if so they can be called, are always selected in some lonely, unfrequented spot. In the Batu islands, the back side of the island, where there is a high surf, where no boats can land, where no village is near ; in a word, where solitude is undisturbed by the voice of man ; there the body is carried and laid on an elevated plat- form amidst the thickest shades of the forest. As I was stroUing one day on the back side of Seboo- hassee, where nothing was heard but the dashing of the waves, and the singing of birds, beneath the shade of a large tree, I was startled to see seven or eight coffins arranged in regular order. I gazed a moment and hurried by, but had proceeded only a 136 MEMOIRS OF few steps before I saw as many more, and a little farther was a still larger number. At the latter place one man had recently been deposited. His coffin was decorated with two small strips of red cloth in the form of flags^ waving over it. Indeed for some distance, along the back of this island, the land is literally a Golgotha. A sepulchre with shattered coffins, and bones mingled with bones in horrid fraternity. " The Nyas have a bad practice of cutting off the front teeth level with the gums, under a mistaken notion that it adds to their beauty. The god of fashion reigns here, as well as in more civilized society. " This is done at twelve or fifteen years of age. It is a very painful operation, and is followed by several days' illness. The practice injures their voices much. " They marry young ; the female sometimes at ten, and the male at fifteen. This is done by ask- ing the consent of the parents, sometimes of the head man. A feast, and the work is finished. They are husband and wife. " The priests are numerous ; their principal em- ploymentj as priests, seems to be to make likenesses of the evil spirits, and hold becharas with the devil, in cases of sickness. For this they are well paid. Yet their income from this source by no means M U N S O N AND L X U A N . 137 meets their wants. They labour daily, as other citizens. "Their language is peculiar to themselves. Their words are uttered with great rapidity, and they are really the most noisy people I have ever seen. " No man is without a wooden shield, four or five feet in length, and fifteen inches in the middle, but tapering to a point at each end. Besides this they have the spear, kris, and sword. The arms of a Nyas man — and they seldom appear abroad without at least the kris and sword — are nearly a load for one man. Their war like exercise consists in a dexterous leap, so as to conceal the body be- hind the shield ; then a plunge or two with the spear ; when it is dropped, and the sword is drawn, and brandished twice or three times, which closes up the whole. The horrid aspect which the coun- tenance assumes during this exercise is altogether indescribable." M. " No person can marry more than one wife at a time. Upon the decease of a man's wife he can marry again if he chooses, in two or three days. When a woman's husband dies she must wait as many months before she again marries. No man can put away his wife as long as she retains a good character. " In case he designs to do it, he must apply to the Ametjoer, whose decision is final. If he ob- 12* 138 MEMOIRS OF jects, they cannot be divorced. If he gives his consent, the man must pay the woman twenty dollars. " When a young person is detected in a lie by his parents, he receives a chastising. When ar- rived at years of discretion he is brought before the Ametjoer, and if he will not confess his fault, and exhibit penitence, he is fined twenty dollars. " When one is detected in theft, if he will not confess to the Ametjoer his fault, ask pardon of the one he has offended, and restore the property, his hands and feet are bound together, and he is cast into the sea. "Adultery and murder are punished with in- stant death by decapitation. These crimes occur so infrequently that some of the Ametjoers have almost lost the run of the laws. Some of the oldest inhabitants, in some villages, cannot recollect when either of the above crimes has occurred. " One Ametjoer, of Oro Hili, informed me that a Nyas man's becoming a Mohammedan, would subject him to expulsion from the Bunwa (village.) When asked how they would regard a man's throwing away his idols and becoming a Christian, he replied, no such case had yet occurred, and he knew not how far it would interfere with their customs. It would be time to decide when one had become a Christian. Others, however, in- formed us that there was no notice whatever taken M U N S O N AND LYMAN. 139 of a man's becoming a Mohammedan. He would be obliged, however, on his own part to be very careful not to become defiled where there were so many swine. '■ Rajah Bockit says, that but one has turned to the ways of the false prophet, and he resides still in his Bunwa. Others say there are twenty in Pulo Batu. " We have witnessed nothinsr amonsr them that forbids the introduction of the gospel. They have great dread and reverence for white men, and great love for the English. They would rejoice to have their children taught to read and write, if it can be possible to write the Nyas language. A missionary among them would be well received. They are sufficiently far removed from the eye of the Dutch to receive no trouble from them, while sufficiently near to receive aid in times of trouble. He must, however, be careful that he always pursues such a course as to convince the people that he has no connection whatever with government, while at the same time, according to gospel principles, he must render tribute to whom tribute is due, and custom to whom custom, and be cautious that he never does or says aught that will prejudice the minds of the people against the government. '• There is no question but now is the time to look after these 8000 souls. Every facility possible presents itself for present labour. The situation 140 UEMOIRS OF of the people in a village for church and school is unparalleled in the history of missions. It is as easy calling them together, and the people would have no further to go than the students of a New England College. Then their superiority of mind and elevation of character ; their present exemption from vice ; the looseness of their heathenism ; their respect for foreigners ; their love for the English ; everything seems to say the field is white, already white for the harvest. Then its relation to Nyas. It is like a portico to a house. If a man does not find labour sufficient, one day's sail will carry him to 200,000 speaking the same language, and possessing the same customs. Or in connection with this might be established a school or two at Pa- dang, where are one thousand free, and two thous- and slave Nyas." L. " May 28. — Though I am now on my way to Nyas, my feelings have not yet left the Batu group. I am still in thought reviewing the field I have so hastily surveyed. I can still see its dense forests, its scattered villages, and hear the mighty waves dashing against the shores of its hundred islands. But that race of people on whom no light hasshined ; my heart feels for them. I would devise some means for their relief and salvation. It can- not be denied that they are superstitious, and in many respects degraded, yet they are not in a hope- less state. All their sacrifices are to propitiate the MUNSON AND LYMAN. 141 evil spirit, and to avert the calamities he has power to inflict. Rude likenesses of this god are ten-fold more numerous than even the population. To se- cure his favour is the beginning and end of their religion. The awe usually felt at the idea of a superior power ; and especially the high and holy sentiments of love and gratitude towards an all- wise and benevolent Father, which the Bible re- veals, not only do not exist, but as yet they are probably without a name. But with all their im- perfections they possess many redeeming qualities. They are not so low in the scale of morals as most heathen who have lived without the restraints of the gospel. " This morning we found ourselves in sight of the long-desired Nyas. I have read of it, thought of it, and prayed over it, but now I see it. The coast rises in gentle elevations, covered with grass and low shrubbery. Surely this beautiful spot could not have been designed for the residence of a being so degraded as man in his fallen state, but this desecration is permitted for a while, till a brighter day shall come. And a brighter day shall come. Along these shores the story of redeeming mercy shall be told, and believed. Here immortal hopes shall spring up, and ripen. "The sound of the 'church-going bell' shall echo along these valleys, and roll over these hills, 142 MEMOIRS OF filling thousands of hearts with gladness and joy unutterable. " I love to dwell on such thoughts when treading on heathen shores. It makes me feel strong. I feel at home in my Master's own enclosure. Though Satan has usurped it for a little season, he is shortly to be driven out of it with shame and everlasting disgrace. " At night anchored at Simambawa. Found an Arab slaver and a Company's gun-boat in the roads. Heard rumours of a meditated attack of the Achi- nese on Gunong Holis." M. " May 29. — Spent part of the morning in con- versation with the Arab. He says around this bay are five thousand people, but under different chiefs. The villages are upon the summits of the hills, and almost entirely concealed by the heavy foliage. He is commissioned here by government ; — a Chris- tian government for the purchase of slaves. *' The Dutch gravely talk of debtors. Of sending to Nyas for debtors. But here things go by their right names. It is seUing slaves. They are brought down to the beach corded, and while the trade is going on, are bound to a post. And when the bargain is concluded, handed over Hke dumb beasts to the purchaser, and naked, except a bit of bark about the loins, led by the cords to the boat, and on board are fettered, and carried to a foreign land. ' And why do you fetter them V I asked the MUNSON AND LYMAN. 143 Arab, ' Because they would throw themselves over- board, or in some other way destroy themselves; and perhaps they will do it now, as many do, before they arrive, or as soon as they arrive and are freed. I never fetter those who go wiUingly.' All the men on board were fettered. I saw on the guard boat that accompanied him, a very interesting boy and girl, of about four and five or six years of age. Their father and mother having died, their uncle, by having the temptation laid before him, had sold them. The government purchased them for a number of years ; at the expiration of which they are free. In the mean time they make coolies of them, and give them their clothes, food, $1.20 cents per month ; or they sell their services to others. I have never yet, in all my inquiries, met with any one who has seen these people return to their native land, or has known them to be liberated. It may be said the slaves are better off than in Nyas. But who created them free ? And who is to be responsible for turning the hand of every man against his neighbour, and filling a nation of two hundred thousand of most interesting people, with the worst of crimes, stealing and trafficking in human flesh, and to obtain it, wading through their neighbour's blood? " May 29. — The chiefs came down with a train of armed vassals, bringing one slave. I saw the poor wretch dragged about with a cord passed over 144 MEMOIRS OF his arms. He looked up with a melancholy smile upon the monsters who were seUing and buying him. and then marched away to the floating prison." M. " About eleven o'clock two Rajahs, one over three hundred, the other over two hundred and fifty people, came down to the audience-house. The greatest Rajah was quite an intelligent man, a man of apparently great decision and firmness of purpose, but a notorious beggar. " When he learned we were Americans, he would take us up to his village, if we would give him some grog, as he said Americans always carried it. He would scarcely believe that we be- long to the temperance society. Next, we might go if we would give him some tobacco, &c., &.c. He informed us, however, that we could go to no other village with safety. We declined his offer on the same grounds." L. " May 31. — To-day we have accomplished httle. The other vessels have been taking in wood and water ; we have done nothing. By a boat that came up last night learned that the report of war has been very much exaggerated. The quarrel seems to be between the Achinese and Malays. Have resolved to go on. After getting so near the land of which we have thought so much, we cannot leave it without good reason. " We trust the Lord has some work for us to do MUNSON AND LYMAN. 145 in Nyasj which we cannot turn away from without incurring guilt." M. '' June 3. — This morning we anchored before Mene. Before us was the breaking surf, the white beach, an interval of a quarter of a mile, checked with patches of trees, underwood, cultivated fields, and scattered huts, backed by a long range of hills of an undulating surface, divided between the wildness of nature and the improvements of the husbandman, with their tops covered with cocoa-nut groves, and villages of the Nyas. But what gives a beauty to the scene unknown in the more tempe- rate climate of New England, is the tall, graceful- ly-waving palm." L. " June 4. — In the evening had a long conversation with Mr. Messam, respecting the Nyas, their cus- toms, &c. He stated many miscellaneous facts re- specting the island and people. " He says there is only one good harbour about the island, which is at the north end, (the Mame.) At Nako ships can anchor with tolerable safety under the lee of the island. Except that place, there is no other on the west side of the island. "At Gelludallan, on the south coast, there are roads, as also Simambawa, Mana, Gunong, Stolis, &c. " He states that the rice raised is nearly or quite all of the Ladang or upland kind. The land is cleared of the shrubbery and grass, and then the 146 MEMOIRS OP rice is planted ten or twelve inches asunder. A sharp stick is thrust into the ground, and from four to six corns in a hole. If the low land is planted the rice is transplanted from the upland to the low. Large quantities of it are sold every year for the Padang market, and especially for the northern parts of Sumatra. " The Achinese consume great quantities of the Nyas rice. The seed time is May or June, and the harvest in four or five months. The produce of the best ground is one hundred and fifty fold, and the poorest is perhaps forty. One acre of land, well cultivated, will produce about one half loyang, (about one ton) or three hundred bamboos. The seed time and harvest of rice is the only time when the Nyas labour hard. The rest of the year is compara- tively a season of idleness. Men, women, and chil- dren all go into the field and labour together. A sort of kris seems to be their principal implement of husbandry. "The sugar-cane flourishes well. The Nyas make abundance of molasses, but no sugar. Sweet potatoes are raised plentifully. They plant them in hills seven or eight feet apart; and gather the crop as they may want them, a few hushels at a time. "Sufficient coffee grows for the consumption of the island. Though it is not much used here, nor does it equal Padang coffee, probably from the im- perfect manner in which it is cultivated. Pulse is MUNSON AND LYMAN. 147 raised in sufficient quantities for internal consump- tion, besides considerable for exportation. " The cotton tree, (gossypium,) is found in all parts of the island ; and on the south coast a coarse cloth is manufactured for the native use. It is not the small shrub of Java, but a most beautiful tree, with distinct sets of branches, wearing an aspect altogether unique in the forest. " They receive in exchange for their rice,