BV 3420 .K36 T29 Taylor, Howard, The call of China north-west 1923 's great Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from Princeton Theological Seminary Library https://archive.org/details/callofchinasgreaOOtayl bn v r* U • S ^ —« C/3 C/3 l) t = 5s a g ~ 0> C THE CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST OR KANSU AND BEYOND BY Mrs. HOWARD TAYLOR WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS THE CHINA INLAND MISSION, LONDON PHILADELPHIA, TORONTO, MELBOURNE, AND SHANGHAI . AGENTS : THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY 4 BOUVERIE STREET, LONDON, E.C.4 . TO HENRY and KARL IN THIS GREATEST DAY OF OPPORTUNITY THE WORLD HAS EVER SEEN “ Is it true that a Divine Person came into the world to bless mankind ? Is that a fact or not ? If it is not, then Christianity is a delusion. If it is true, such a fact must be of supreme importance for all men. “ If the Divine Person came to bless mankind, all men ought to know it : all have a right, a claim, to be told the fact. That settles our duty.” Eugene Stock. iv I sought the secret of Thy will ; But, Lord, I did not know Thy lowly life, Thy heavy cross Life’s plan and purpose show. I thought some special path and plan Bearing my name I’d see ; Instead, I found in Jesus’ life Footprints for such as me. To save the lost His aim, so mine ; Poor hungry ones to feed ; The sightless eyes to turn to light ; The erring feet to lead. Since Jesus’ life reveals God’s will, Surely I’m in His way When choosing rough, dark mountain paths To find the sheep who stray. Thus preaching Christ where yet unknown, God’s world-wide love I show ; And since for this Christ lived and died, God’s will for me I know. Grace E. Wilder. v CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE 1. Leaving the Plains ..... i 2. Sundays by the Way ..... 4 3. Sundays by the Way ( continued ) . . .17 4. Lanchow at last . . . . . *31 5. Orient and Occident ..... 38 6. The Earthquake ...... 46 7. A Battlefield of Humanity ... 58 8. Far-off Liangchow ..... 66 9. Beyond ....... 75 10. Children of the Mountains ... 88 11. “Western Peace” / . . . . 100 12. The Great “Butter Festival” . . . 118 13. A “ Living Buddha ” . . . . . 134 14. The Salars of the Tibetan Borderland . 144 15. Sons of Ishmael . . . . . .156 16. “ If it were not ...” . . . . 175 17. With the Dawn ...... 195 Appendices — A. The Immured Monks of Tibet . . 204 B. What is a “Living Buddha”? . . 206 C. A “Living Buddha” at Home . . 209 D. The Mystic Phrase, “ om mani padmi HUM ” ....... 214 vii ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE The Frontier of Tibet .... Frontispiece The Southern End of the Pass across the Tien Mountains ....... 23 Forts at Lanchow . . . . . .31 The City of Lanchow ...... 44 The Loess Formation . . . . . .51 A Typical Inn in the Great North-West . . .61 Road and Inn between Lanchowfu and Liangcliowfu 61 View from the Roof of the Mission House at Liang- chowfu, showing the three famous pagodas . 61 Kiayiikwan ....... 77 The Golok Queen with her Son and the Wives of two of her Chief Ministers . . . . .109 The Gold-roofed Temple . . . . .123 Tibetan Women of Choni . . . . .129 The Butter Festival . . . . , .132 The Dalai Lama . . . . . 135 Map of Kansu . . . . At end of volume Vlll CHAPTER I LEAVING THE PLAINS It was barely six weeks before the terrible earth¬ quake, when, little realising what was about to happen, we set out from the capital of Shensi in North China to visit the very region to be most devastated by that calamity. It was a beautiful November. The air was fresh and bracing — specially at three o’clock in the morning when our active young carter would have us get up — and the sun ran its course through a cloudless sky. Many a day we had watched it rise and set since leaving the railway, lumbering along the dusty track, climbing the mountains and crossing the plain which had brought us to the city of Sian, above mentioned. Once before we had been there, but that was long ago, on our wedding journey. We could no more have recognised the great city from our remembrance of it than it could have recognised us, only with this difference, that while we had been growing older, Sian, strange to say, had grown young, or so it seemed for a mile or two inside the East Gate — very young indeed ! It almost took our breath away to pass under that massive portal and find, instead of the old ruts 2 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST and mud-holes, the irregular buildings and crowded stalls, a magnificent highway running straight ahead as far as eye could see, broad as a Paris boulevard, smooth as a garden path, and lined on either side with two-storied buildings as alike as peas in a pod. Bicycles sped over this highway, telegraph wires, telephones, electric lights, modern shops, soldiers in foreign uniforms, and people in rickshaws hurrying about their business made us feel antiquated in our Chinese dress and old-time cart. And then the changes in the mission-circle into which we were warmly welcomed ! Loved faces were gone, and those who remained of that first group to obtain permanent residence in the city (Scandinavian Alliance) were veterans of thirty years’ standing. The little handful of converts had grown to number five hundred baptized believers in and around the city, and many hundreds more in the far-reaching stations opened from that centre. Very interesting it was to see the beautiful church filled to the doors on Sunday, the platform packed with fifty students from the Bible School who helped with the singing. Young workers are in training not only there, but in the Swedish- American school, which has grown up to meet the demands of the missionary circle. The passing of one dear lad from Darkness to Light at the time of our visit was a never-to-be-forgotten experience, bringing a breath of revival over the school in which every boy and girl received definite blessing. Several are now preparing to be missionaries, hoping after they have finished their education at home to return to this great needy field. LEAVING THE PLAINS 3 But much though there was to learn and to rejoice in — both among these dear friends, Associates of the China Inland Mission, and those of the English Baptist Mission — we could stay little longer than was necessary to prepare for our further journey. For the great North-West lay before us, the vast region stretching out from the populous Sian plain to the rugged lonely distances of Kansu, the province that loses itself in Central Asia. Six days’ travelling it would take to reach the border, not counting visits to intermediate stations, and when we entered the province itself (a thousand miles from Shanghai) it would still stretch on a thousand miles beyond, to the frontier of Tibet and the Moslem-peopled heart of the Continent. The loneli¬ ness of the mission-stations appealed to us, most of them six to thirteen days’ journey apart, on the verge of civilisation as well as of China proper. One thought of them as out of the world almost, and of the few foreign missionaries as buried in distant isolation. Mountain ranges and desert wastes seemed to separate them from the common life of nations, and their ice-bound streams in winter could scarcely be more sluggish than the currents of thought about them. What was our surprise, therefore, after crossing those mountain ranges, to find instead of mental and social stagnation, the living, throbbing tides of one of the great high¬ ways of the world ! CHAPTER II SUNDAYS BY THE WAY Our first Sunday was at Hingping, and proved a red-letter day indeed — for it introduced us to a living, growing, self-propagating church, a church rich in spiritual gifts, with three pastors raised up of its own membership and over nine hundred communicants ; not a perfect church by any means, but one that knows the meaning of prayer and has experienced the power of God in real revivals. The welcome those dear Christians gave us was characteristic of their loving spirit, and entirely of their own planning, as we learned from the missionaries. That we did not arrive until long after we were expected hardly seemed to damp their ardour. For ourselves, jolting wearily along at two or three miles an hour, we were still some distance from the city, wondering what would happen if the gates were shut, and reminded by gathering shadows of all we had heard about robbers in that disturbed region. Suddenly a light shone ahead. “ Is this Dr. Taylor ? ” was shouted in Chinese by some one on horseback. Assured that it was, he rode off and disappeared. 4 SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 5 Presently, more lights and voices. Then a mule was hurried up, two young men fastened it rapidly to the front of the cart, and soon we were going at a gallant pace over the unknown, unseen, uneven road. What mattered jolts and jars as we saw them running cheerily beside us ! Next, more lights and quite a crowd by the wayside. Such bright, kindly faces and welcoming voices ! Strong hands were outstretched to help us from the cart and we were led up a steep bank to an open door. “ But this is not the city,” we questioned, for we had not passed the gates. “ No, but you must be tired. We have prepared refreshment here, and after a little rest will take you on to the mission-house.” It was a sort of fairy palace by the roadside — a private garden as we afterwards discovered — and we were led through trees and flowers to an open space, where a vine was trellised over the entrance to a guest-hall. Inside, a lamp was burning on a table covered with cups of steaming hot tea and plates piled high with confectionery. It was all so clean and radiant and surprising ! When we were seated with two of the pastors, a number of elders, deacons, and church members crowded round, and together we gave thanks for this happy meeting. Tea and cakes were welcome, and we were soon on our way again. The city gates, which had been shut and barred, slowly opened as we approached. Surrounded by our escort, with Pastor Hwang riding on the front of the cart, it was quite a procession as the silent streets re-echoed with familiar hymns. Thus we 6 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST were brought to the mission- house, where others, singing also, came out to meet us. Then a fatherly voice bade us welcome in the Name of the Lord, and we saw Mr. and Mrs. Bergstrom and Miss Anderson standing among their people. Words fail to tell the joy of such meetings. After being introduced to many of the Christians and answering kind inquiries as to our journey, we were taken to the building occupied by the Bergstroms — a little place, ideal in its home-comfort and simplicity. There at the supper-table, in the pleasant room that does duty as dining-room, drawing-room, and guest- hall in one, divided by an open screen with doorways, we began to learn something of what lies behind the remarkable growth of the Hingping church. Its missionaries have been simple people, apostolic in their faith and love. Quite in the early days, before the Bergstroms came to the station, Mr. and Mrs. Nordlund were there as bridegroom and bride. Their hearts were full of desire to bring Christ to the people, but the indifference and opposition were so great that there seemed little they could do but pray. Mr. Nordlund went out preaching and selling books, and Mrs. Nordlund welcomed the women who came out of curiosity to see her, but she was rarely asked into houses as she passed along the streets, and no one seemed interested in their message. One day things came to a climax. A Christian book was thrown in at the main entrance, which was found to be scribbled all over with charges against the missionaries, and wherever the name of Jesus occurred horrible things were written against it. SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 7 Stirred with sorrow and indignation, the Nordlunds took the book and, kneeling down, laid it open before them on the ground. Here was a case to plead ! Surely the adversary had overreached himself ; and for the honour of that precious Name, blasphemed among the heathen, they laid hold upon promise after promise, with faith that claimed a wonderful fulfilment. Such prayer — on and on through the whole afternoon, with many tears ! But in those days they just lived to pray. “ Hours and hours I have known them to spend on their knees/’ said one who became their fellow- worker, “ praying for openings, praying for souls, always with many tears.” One of the things Mrs. Nordlund specially prayed for was that the Lord Himself would speak to people whom they could not reach ; speak by vision and dreams, if there were no other way, but work in some hearts directly and bring them to Himself. All the summer she prayed this prayer, and mean¬ while the answer was on its way. In a -village near the city a woman had a dream. She saw a beautiful being come towards her with hands outstretched, as though offering some gift. The face she could not forget, nor the expression of love and happiness. But never in her life had she seen any one look like that, and how could she suppose she ever would ? What was her surprise, therefore, when running with the rest one day to see the much-talked-of foreigner, to find herself looking into that very face with the eyes of love ! Little wonder she listened to what the missionary was saying, and that the truth reached her heart. So this was the wonderful gift 8 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST — a Saviour who had died that her sins might be forgiven and who would take her to eternal happiness with Himself in heaven. Whose joy was the greater — hers, as she entered by faith into new life in Christ, or that of the young missionary, who was seeing God’s own working in answer to prayer ? Ten years later there was a church in Hingping of a hundred and fifty members, but Mr. Bergstrom was far from satisfied. Most of them were his own children in the faith, and he understood and loved them as only a father can. He had worked assidu¬ ously to reach the scholarly men of the district, and quite a few were found among the Christians and enquirers. All this was encouraging, but he longed to see more evidence of spiritual life and power. “ I felt that the Christians were not united,” he said, recalling those days ; “ that there was not mutual love and a spirit of submission one to another. They were too much taken up with worldly things. The Spirit of God had not free way in their hearts, to form in them a Christlike character.” There was also great need for Chinese fellow- workers, men of faith and devotion, to evangelise the populous plain right back to the mountains. Concerned about these things the only resource was prayer, and to this Mr. Bergstrom gave himself more definitely. At length there came two years when the burden was so great that he felt he could not live unless his heart’s cry were answered. To prayer were added frequent seasons of fasting. A young missionary who joined him at this time was deeply impressed with the way in which the busy head of the station would spend hours in prayer, SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 9 fasting usually twice a week. It was revival he prayed for — real GoD-sent revival, such as he had known in Sweden — and that the Lord would raise up among the Christians men of spiritual gifts, and open the whole district to the Gospel. Wonderful must have been the answer when it came, as we could tell from the results a dozen years later. “ I am a good friend to Finney,” said Mr. Bergstrom, speaking of that great evangelist’s writings on the subject of revival. “ The times we had in 1907-8, both before Mr. Lutley came and while he was with us, were of that order. Our prayers were answered and our joy was full. But I believe in continuous revival. I believe in the sort of thing they had in Moody’s church, a revival for eight years, every week souls saved and believers quickened. If we use faithfully the GoD-appointed means — prayer and the Word — it surely would be so, and big revivals would only be a fuller measure of what we have all the time. I cannot say we have reached this state here in Hingping as regards the whole church, but some of the Christians, some part of the church, must be filled with the Spirit, or we should not have the conversions we do have by the blessing of God.” This we could well believe in the services we attended and in daily intercourse with the Christians. What a spirit of prayer there was among them ! An Autumn Conference had recently been held at which there had been much blessing, but still the people gathered, hungry for more. Pastor Wang had come in from his tent-missions and Pastor Kuoh 10 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST from his out-stations, and with Pastor Hwang took a leading part in the services. The eagerness of the people for spiritual help was what impressed us most — whether healing in sickness, restoration from backsliding, or deliverance from the power of the devil. The latter was just as real to them as any one present ; and it was startling to hear with what directness men and women told their failures and troubles, seeking definite help. It seemed nothing unusual for Pastor Hwang to stop in the middle of an address, or between prayers, to ask some one who had come up and was standing quietly by the platform : “ What is it ? Tell me, and we will pray for you.” At the close of a meeting there would often be quite a number who had come, without public invitation, to seek restoration, to give their hearts to the Lord or to praise Him for blessing received. Then the praying ! It was different from most praying — far more definite, free, and earnest. It was Mr. Bergstrom’s habit to say at the commence¬ ment of a meeting — not only prayer meetings but any and every occasion : “ Now we will take [literally, “ use ”] a little time for praying.” He would mention special subjects, two or three at a time, and give opportunity for prayer, when they would immediately be taken up. And the praying was not discursive, about anything or nothing. It was very much to the point, really dealing with the subjects mentioned. At the SUNDAYS BY THE WAY ii Sunday morning service, for example, he began, after a hymn of praise : “ Now, let us use a little time in praying for the coming of the Kingdom of God. The Lord Jesus taught us to pray, ‘ Thy Kingdom come.’ For over nineteen hundred years this has been the prayer of the Church, and many signs show us, now, that that prayer will soon be answered in the coming of the Lord. Let us take a little time to pray for the establishment of that Kingdom which is ‘ righteousness and peace and joy in the Holy Ghost/ ” Two of the pastors led in intelligent, fervent supplication. “ Let us use a little time in praying for our country/’ the quiet voice went on — “ for China, for its rulers and its good in every way.” After speaking briefly on this subject, he asked two of the elders to lead. Much was revealed in the prayers that followed of the habit of intercession that has become natural to these Christians. “ And now let us use a little time in praying for our families, our friends and neighbours, and the services of the day.” Some of the evangelists took up these petitions in a way that greatly helped the speakers who were to follow. At all the meetings it was the same. Whether called upon by name or not, those people prayed, barely waiting for one to finish before another began, and in that direct simple way of transacting real business with God. Outsiders coming in at such times could not fail to be impressed with the thought that the Christians’ God is the one 12 CALL OF CHINA'S GREAT NORTH-WEST who hears and answers prayer. “ But how has it come to be like this ? " one could not but ask oneself. “ How have these converts recently gathered in from heathenism learned to pray with so much faith and directness ? " The answer was not far to seek, with that quiet, deep-hearted man in their midst, whose whole atmosphere is one of prayer and the presence of God. “ I have made not a few mistakes," he said to us in talking about church matters, “ but the Lord seems to have worked even through my mistakes. Some have blamed me for baptizing people too readily, though we have always looked for evidences of true conversion ; and some have thought me daring in entrusting responsibility to the Christians. But one may hinder the Lord’s work by being too careful. I do not know that it would have been better any other way." But it was not only the praying that impressed us — there were the testimonies in the great Endeavour meeting. How one did wish that Christian En- deavourers at home could have seen and heard it all ! Imagine the big, irregular-shaped church, the white-washed walls decorated with scrolls and paintings by a Chinese artist (a believer who has gone to be with the Lord) , and in a corner near the platform the vigorous band that lead the singing. Mr. Bergstrom himself cannot sing a note, so that the two violins, the guitars, and other instruments have it all their own way, which is quite a Chinese way naturally. Hundreds of Christians are there for the Endeavour meeting, and Pastor Hwang is in the chair. SUNDAYS BY THE WAY i3 To touch upon one or two incidents only : The first to speak was a middle-aged farmer, named Kuoh, a fine-looking man with a deep, full voice. He said he had been a Christian for two years, but had not been happy, because he had hidden his light under a bushel. He never could bring himself to speak' to others about what he had found in Christ. Recently, in one of Pastor Wang’s tent-missions, he had definitely sought deliverance in this matter. He had asked the Lord to open his lips, and had trusted Him for power to witness to His saving grace. He had left the tent, he told us, determined to speak to the first man he met ! He did so, and was encouraged . Then he spoke to another, and another, and such wonderful joy filled his heart ! One could see it in his face. The Lord had answered his prayer and given him liberty. Very different was another who stood up — an old man and half-blind, but equally full of joy. He told a remarkable story. He had so wanted to come in from his village for the Conference meetings, a few weeks previously. But he had no money for the journey or for food. He was a second husband, though he did not mention this, and his wife had married him in order to get a good labourer to look after her land. The arrangement worked pretty well until he began to lose his sight, but since then his life had been a burden. The woman and her sons were hard upon him, and all the more so because he had become a Christian. The very idea of his wanting to go to meetings and have money for food and collections ! They would let him know that he was nothing but a useless burden, and could not 14 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST cut grass enough to pay for his keep. All this we learned afterwards. What the old man said was that he prayed and prayed about going to the meetings. He did so want to learn more of the truth, and to have something to give to the Lord like other believers. But it all seemed very hopeless and he could do nothing but pray. Then as the Conference drew near, his wife needed some raw cotton to spin into thread, and went to a basket hanging over the brick bed in their room to take a handful. To her astonishment, with the cotton she took out something hard, which proved to be a silver dollar. Nobody knew where it had come from, and the woman and her sons were too surprised to claim it. “ Of course,” said the old man when he knew what was going on, “ of course it is my answer to prayer ! You would not give me money or flour to go and worship God, but He has heard my cry and sent me this piece of silver. We dare not use it in any way but in His service.” The wife and sons were so much impressed that they handed over this small fortune without demur, and it may be imagined with what joy the old man came in to the meetings. Now, as he told us, his family are wanting to learn about the Gospel, and he is treated with much more respect. “ Truly the Lord has many ways of working,” was Pastor Hwang’s comment. “ He pitied this poor suffering child of His and found a way to help him, not only answering his prayer, but doing more than he asked or thought.” And then, not to dwell upon many other matters SUNDAYS BY THE WAY i5 of interest, just as the meeting closed a beautiful thing happened. A woman came forward, entirely of her own accord, and knelt down in front of the platform. She was a nice - looking, well - dressed person in middle life, and seemed much in earnest. “ What do you wish us to pray for ? ” asked one of the pastors. Her answer was a little puzzling : “I wish to believe in the Lord with all my house.” But before anything more could be said, Farmer Kuoh came eagerly round from the men’s side of the partition. “ Oh, it is my child’s mother ! ” he exclaimed. “ She alone, of all our family, would not believe. My old father believes — he is eighty-five. My mother believes, and my son and daughter-in-law. But my wife has been bitterly opposed. Now, thank God, she too wishes to become a Christian ! ” His face was radiant as he knelt beside her. There was thanksgiving and prayer, and as we rose she said quietly, “ Now, I too believe — with all my house.” It is not easy to come to an end of our recollections of Hingping, any more than it was to close our visit. Long conversations with the pastors must be passed over, with details as to how they were led, each one, to faith in Christ. And further reference to the great Revival must be omitted, save for one remark of Mr. Bergstrom’s about a discovery he made when the Holy Spirit came in power. It was to do with the language. He had felt himself hampered before that time, and 16 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST considered Chinese a poor medium for conveying spiritual truth, though he was an exceptionally good speaker. But during those wonderful days that lifted the church on to a new plane in spiritual life, “ I found the Chinese language apply itself to the feelings,” he told us, “ just as any other language. I used to think that it could not be like our home words, so heart-moving and tender. But when the Revival came — oh, what melting ! The language was no more any difficulty.” CHAPTER III Sundays by the way — continued Before leaving Hingping we were taken to see the Girls’ School, in connection with which Miss Anderson has had many definite answers to prayer. Though the need for schools is so great, to train the young people of Christian families for lives of useful¬ ness, the money necessary for buildings and equip¬ ment is not always forthcoming from mission funds. Gifts are given for the purpose by the Chinese themselves, and often they come from friends at home who recognise the importance of such work. In connection with the Hingping school it has been encouraging to see how the Lord has provided, sometimes from most unexpected quarters. On one occasion Miss Anderson learned a lesson that has often stood her in good stead. She was needing money for the support of her family of orphans, as well as for school purposes, and had been much in prayer about it. Funds did not come, and she began to feel that she could wait no longer. Anxiety took the place of faith and led her to write to her brother in America, upon whose sympathy she knew she could count, asking for a certain sum. No sooner was the letter posted than she realised 17 c 18 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST her mistake. It had hitherto been a blessed ex¬ perience to trust in the Lord, telling her wants to Him alone, but now she had taken a step which she felt was not for His glory. There was nothing to be done. She could not get the letter back ; and yet, since it concerned His faithfulness, might not the Lord find some way of dealing with the matter so as to overrule even her mistake ? It seemed a daring thing to pray that He would send the letter back ; but that was just what she did, almost in spite of herself, and the Lord answered in His own gracious, wonderful way. By the very next mail she received a remittance which was exactly the sum she had asked her brother to send, and three months later the letter to him was returned, unopened. It was the only time she ever had a letter to one of her family returned from the post office. Her brother had been away, she afterwards learned, travelling on business, and the unclaimed letter was sent back. Truly we deal with One to whom it matters much that we should learn to trust Him. Generous giving among the Chinese Christians was another proof of life in the Hingping church. We were specially touched by the dear old Bible- woman, who had made over all her savings and possessions to Mr. Bergstrom for the work. More than seventy years of age, she was a fine rugged personality, humorous and kindly, and for eighteen years had been invaluable among the women. Her salary had never been large — only a few thousand cash a year in addition to board and lodging. Yet she was a regular giver to the collections and was SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 19 always doing good in other ways. When asked how this was possible, she said with a merry look : “ Well, you see, I work for Si-niang (Mrs. Berg¬ strom) all day, and I work for the Lord at night.” This meant that she denied herself hours of sleep to spin and weave cotton into coarse calico on her hand-loom, and the money from its sale she rejoiced to use for the Lord. Yet, even a living, giving, self-propagating church is not free from a constant tendency to declension. Mr. Bergstrom said it alarmed him to see how quickly a church, like an individual, can run down and fall into a cold, backsliding state. At certain seasons of the year, especially, he felt the need for watchfulness and prayer. For if such a process were not checked, a few months would suffice to lower the tone of the whole work and rob it of spiritual power. The summer season, from the fifth to the eighth moon, he spoke of as specially dangerous — the hot months when the harvest is being reaped. People are so busy, hard at it from morning till night, and it seems too hot to come to meetings. When they do come, many are tired and cannot keep awake. Even the New Year with its well-known temptations he considered less perilous to Christian life than those summer months. Mid-spring, again, calls for special care — when everybody goes out to the graves, and there is much demon - worship, feasting, and excitement. These are seasons at which he feels that both Chinese and foreign workers should be specially watchful in shepherding the flock. This tendency to drifting emphasises also the need, not for rare and extraordinary seasons of 20 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST revival so much as for a continuous filling and re¬ filling of the Holy Spirit. To maintain the life of the church at the right level, by the blessing of God, through prayer and the ministry of the Word, this devoted missionary feels to be his chief responsibility and privilege. “ Diversities of operations but the same Spirit ” was a thought frequently brought home to us as we travelled from station to station. In this same district, for example, worked by our (C.I.M.) Associates of the Scandinavian Alliance, an experi¬ ence came to us that was unique in its way and very precious. We were spending Sunday in the city of Pinchow. The missionaries in charge were away on furlough, but their eldest son and his bride were carrying on the work and entertained us with delightful hospitality. Into their dining-room they welcomed that Sunday evening a group of country Christians who had come a long distance and wanted to have an extra meeting. Such a rough, unkempt, mud-bespattered company they were — small farmers and farm - servants from cave - dwellings in the mountains. Their speech was hard to understand and their stolid faces betrayed little in the way of interest. They were indeed sons of toil, sons of the North, but, as we soon discovered, true sons of God. One of the group, perhaps the roughest looking, had just recovered from a serious illness, and must have found it difficult to come on foot into the city. With evident weakness, yet with something of inward radiance, he told in a quiet, natural way how the Lord had been teaching and blessing him. It SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 21 was so quiet and simple that it was a few minutes before we realised that we were listening to one of the most beautiful spiritual testimonies one had ever heard. More and more the inward radiance shone out, until one was lost in thankfulness to God for the wonder and beauty of His work in unexpected places. It was an hour to realise, as we often do in China, the meaning of the Master’s word : “ Many that are first shall be last, and the last first.” He only told quite simply how the Lord had been leading him in the matter of sin and inward victory. He had had three illnesses, and each had been a time of spiritual blessing. In the first there began to dawn upon him a sense of how deep and terrible was the evil of his own heart. One listened almost breathlessly at that point. Yes, a clear, overwhelming conviction of sin had come to him, believer though he was ; a sense of guilt before God that it seemed all the sacrifice of Christ was needed to atone for — even had there been no other sinner to redeem. He told of his resolution to lead a very different life, and of the love to Christ that filled his heart as he saw how much he had been forgiven. Then he went on to speak of a further experience. Recovered from that illness, he had set out on what he felt would be a more consistent life. He was alive to sin in himself as never before, and was determined to overcome it. In the main things were better. He was more watchful and much more conscious of failure. But, alas ! his quick temper and impatient spirit were still beyond control. Many things that he now knew to be wrong he had no power to overcome, and the surprise of this discovery was 22 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST not less than the pain it caused. Why could he not live the life he longed to live, the life he had come to see a Christian should live ? Twilight fell in the crowded room, and one could no longer see the toil-worn faces. We forgot that we were there as visitors, as teachers, as anything at all : we were just listeners as the earnest voice went on, telling with a hush of something words could not utter what God had done for a soul. It was through another illness — for again he had weeks of suffering when it seemed he could not recover. In that time of weakness there had come to him the understanding that it was only through Another’s life, Another’s power, that he could become victorious over sin. One longed to be able to write down, just as he said them, sentence after sentence that might have been spoken in a Keswick Convention or a Victorious Life Conference. It was grievous to be losing the Chinese phrases that told of this wonderful experience. For he had entered by faith, then and there, into the life that means peace and power — the Exchanged Life, in which it is “ no longer I that live, but Christ that liveth in me.” And then the third illness, for he had to hurry on, was the illness from which he had just recovered. Doctors had given him up, his relatives had given him up, and his wife was weeping beside him as he tried to tell her what to do for the children when he was gone. “ But have you not often said,” she sobbed, “ that your Jesus healed people who were sick, and even raised the dead ? ” “ Yes,” he assented wonderingly. Photo by Dr. G. E. Morrison. THE SOUTHERN END OF THE PASS ACROSS THE TIEN MOUNTAINS. “ This was the great highway travelled for centuries, millenniums rather, between the rich plains of China and the marts of India, Persia, and the western world.” To face page 23 SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 23 “ Well, I will worship Him if only He will heal you now ! I will be a Christian like you are.” He was too weak to pray aloud, but she knelt up on the brick bed and began at once to cry to the Lord, She told Him all her trouble, simply as a little child, and prayed for forgiveness for not having decided long ago to be a Christian. From that hour her husband began to recover, and the blessing of his third illness, he told us, was the conversion of his wife. We had crossed the border into the province of Kansu before another Sunday — crossed it in the white mist of a December morning, seeing little of our surroundings. The road ran along a high plateau, as we gradually discovered, with strange wide chasms falling away on either side, hundreds if not thousands of feet. Big trees lined the track mile after mile, remains of the great avenue planted by the Viceroy Tso all the way out to Ti-hwa-fu, a three months’ journey into Central Asia. For this was the great highway travelled for centuries, millenniums rather, between the rich plains of China and the marts of India, Persia, and the western world. For days we had been passing caravans and trains of camels ; carts laden with grain, drawn by many animals ; carts piled with bales of medicinal herbs for the drug stores of great cities ; mules carrying coal in huge lumps, wool in bundles, or long narrow sacks of wheat ; barrows laden with a variety of merchandise ; droves of pigs, or flocks of sheep and goats — all driven and urged on their way by the roughest-looking muleteers, shepherds, and 24 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST mountain-men. The carts that travelled with us were a shade more civilised, carrying cigarettes for the American Tobacco Company, though our own Jehu was picturesque enough for any adventure, with his shock of unkempt hair, baggy trousers, yellow leggings, and patched coat of a rich shade of terra-cotta. Darkness was closing in that Wednesday night as we neared the first city over the border, our carter giving his wild warning cry before entering the narrow defiles by which we had to descend from the heights. Half-way down we emerged at a group of houses — lights and shops on either side — where we had to wait for a train of heavily laden carts coming up from the city. Far below we heard the shouts of drivers and the crack of heavy whips, and suffering in the suffering of the animals could only pray for the coming of that day for which the whole creation groans. We were thinking, too, about the friends with whom we were to spend Sunday and the re¬ ception that awaited us. Presently lanterns drew near, climbing the hill, and we heard inquiries for the foreign travellers. Cordial greetings followed from messengers who had come to meet us, and when the road was clear they went ahead to lead the way. Down and down we plunged in the darkness, coming on flaring lights a mile or so below, where there was a busy suburb of the city, with food stalls, inns, and crowds of buyers and sellers. Slowly we made our way through the throng, turning at last into a quiet street, an open gateway, and a sort of stable-yard. Out of the dark came kindly voices, then Mr. Gjelseth's tall figure appeared, and there SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 25 were hearty handgrips, a real Scandinavian welcome ! Mrs. Gjelseth came running from their home across the way, and climbing down from the cart one almost felt as if in a dream — a dream of Norway or Switzer¬ land — for all around were mountains, black against the sky, save where a church near at hand raised a slender steeple, dimly seen among the stars. The church built by our Norwegian friends had brought good luck, it appeared, to the Chinese city. Ever since its completion Kingchow had prospered. Before that time, the leading merchants had been mostly from other places, but since the church was built, business had largely passed into the hands of local people. Harvests had been good, the city had been free from brigandage, and it had sent forth no fewer than sixteen of its sons as officials to hold rank in other places. So the position of the church, outside the wall and guarding the South gate, had proved exceptionally favourable, and its sonorous bell was heard with satisfaction far and near. Within the Christian community, though such ideas were recognised as superstitious, there was also cause for thanksgiving. Our own arrival just at that time seemed to be a definite answer to prayer. A Conference had been arranged some months previously to take place that very week, and it was only after the date was fixed that Mr. and Mrs. Gjelseth heard of our coming to the province. They did not know when to expect us or even the route we were taking, a letter having miscarried, but the Christians began at once to pray that we might reach Kingchow in time for the meetings. Day 26 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST after day went by and we knew nothing of these prayers, but when we got in late that Wednesday night we found the mission-house full of rejoicing, for the Christians were already gathering and the Conference was to begin on Friday ! Over the precious experiences of those days we must not linger — believers quickened, souls saved, and for us fresh lessons of the power of Christ in the lives of old and young at opposite extremes of the social scale. Rarely had we met a more attractive personality than the charming lady, over seventy years of age, who was living in the mission-house, delighting to serve the Lord as “ a door-keeper ” since she was too old, she said, to do much else. She was the widow of a high official who had been proud of her beauty, which was still remarkable ; for her eyes were as bright and her teeth as perfect as in girlhood. It was only after her husband’s death that she came to know and love the Lord, and then, finding a little room opening out of the Women’s Guest-Hall in which she could just manage to live, she asked to be allowed to come and give the rest of her days to helping in the work. She longed to win some souls to Christ, and though she could not go out preach¬ ing, her feet being far too small, she could k’an-men at home — that is, look after the household when Mrs. Gjelseth was out and receive the women visitors. It was lovely to see her welcoming with equal grace ladies from wealthy families, children who ran in and out, up-to-date teachers from the Government Schools, and patients coming for medicine. The country Christians loved her, and SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 27 would sit for hours with her on the k’ang, while the girls of the mission school turned to her as a mother. She took the same food that they did, prepared in the same kitchen, though her brother’s family in the city frequently sent her extra delicacies. Her tiny feet, though unbound as much as possible since she had become a Christian, called forth a story of suffering that time could not obliterate. Her father had been an official of high rank, and so devoted to his little daughter that he could not bear the thought of having her feet compressed. The mother was equally fond of the child and shrank from causing her distress, so she was allowed to run about happily until she was ten or eleven years of age. But then she was so free and like a boy that they became alarmed. Relatives were scandalised. She ran and climbed trees and was as independent as her brothers. There was nothing of the young lady about her at all ! So the foot-binding had to come, and was worse than if it had begun earlier. Poor child, her suffering was so intense that for more than a year she hardly slept at night. Her father would walk up and down supporting her for hours, when all the household was asleep, to try and ease the pain, which was intolerable if she kept still. But all his love and all her anguish could not undo the bandages. Their reward came later, such as it was, when she was the acknowledged beauty of the circle into which she married. Her feet were the distinction quite as much as her face and manner — though now her one regret is that they hinder her in serving the Lord. She has arranged with her family that she 28 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST is to live and die in peace among the Christians and is to have a Christian funeral. Very different were the connections of the young Bible-woman who is one of the treasures of the Kingchow church. Given to Mrs. Gjelseth in child¬ hood, she was saved from a life of misery and shame. For her parents were both opium-smokers, and she was to have been sold to the highest bidder. But the father heard of the missionaries, and through them of One who is mighty to save. He was delivered from his opium craving, and became an earnest, humble Christian. Three months later he sent to ask Mrs. Gjelseth to come to his village, as he was very ill and wanted to make arrangements about his child. She found him alone, dying, in a poor cave-dwelling, and set his mind at rest by pro¬ mising to keep the child who was already in her care. The father had still another burden on his heart. “ I do believe in Jesus,” he said with difficulty. “ If I had been in the mission-house now, He would have come to take me, wouldn’t He ? But He could not come to such a poor, dirty cave as this. “You often said,” he went on wistfully, “ that He would take me to heaven. But do you think He would be willing to come to such a place - ” And he waited for her answer. Earnestly she reassured him. Jesus had been poor — born in a stable for our sakes. Jesus had died for him ; he need not fear. Jesus would surely come. “ Oh, I am so thankful, so happy ! ” he whispered, as the thought possessed him. “ Then I can die in peace.” SUNDAYS BY THE WAY 29 After praying with him and doing what she could for his comfort, the missionary left, promising to bring his little girl to see him next day. He was lying all alone when they came, just as she had left him, and on the still face was a smile that said so plainly : “ Jesus did come, you see, even to this poor place ! ” The child of that cave-home is a woman now, well educated and deeply spiritual. Her whole heart goes out in love to the Lord and love for souls. To spend an hour with her in prayer was a precious experience. Passing through a bright, busy little city a week or two later, in which there were no missionaries, one could not but feel what a joy it would be to settle there among the people with that dear girl for a fellow-worker . One’s heart was specially drawn to the people of that place — little thinking that only ten days later the terrible earth¬ quake was to leave a thousand dead beneath its ruined homes. Our last Sunday on the road found us twenty miles beyond that city (Tsing-ning-chow), and though the inn was of the poorest it was a day for which to thank God. Snow and sleet had kept us from doing a full stage, and the place we came to for the Sunday’s rest was of the poorest. But there were needy, hungry souls there, who found us out in the inn. All day was spent in hearing their stories and telling them of Jesus. Our words were well understood, and several men and boys lingered as if they could not hear enough of the glad tidings of salvation. Some who were with us that day 30 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST doubtless perished in the earthquake, which was particularly bad just in that region, but from one man we subsequently heard by letter as well as through fellow-missionaries. He so definitely gave himself to Christ, opium-smoker though he was, that joy-bells were ringing in our hearts that day as well as in heaven. What mattered the discomforts of the dismal inn ; the fear of robbers that made our landlord give wild cries at intervals all night, to show that we were not asleep ; the damp room, so cold that with all our bedding we lay shivering for hours, and so full of smoke when a fire was kindled that our eyes streamed with tears — what mattered lack of privacy or rest if only that precious soul were saved and kept to life eternal ? Two of a chain of forts guarding the western approaches to Lanchow City, the capital of Kansu. It will be noted that the cart track is also a river bed, “one interminable stretch of rocks and stones.” CHAPTER IV LANCHOW AT LAST It was the last day of our journey to Lanchow — provincial capital of Kansu — and in some ways the hardest. Up in the dark and cold of that December morning, we were out by 3 a.m. and travelled miles by starlight along a frozen river-bed, one intermin¬ able stretch of rocks and stones. Oh, the jolting of the springless cart, the bitter cold of those darkest hours before the dawn ! But they prepared us the more to appreciate all that was in store of hospitality and home. And the welcome came sooner than we anticipated. We had crossed the last range of hills, and were wondering how long it would take to reach the city, when in a little town where hill and plain met, we saw a number of people standing round a cart. What was the attraction ? Could it be “ foreigners ” ? A gentleman and lady in Chinese dress but with the look of Westerners were coming to meet us. Mr. and Mrs. Mann — how good it was to see them ! The rest of the journey, with one of them and one of us on each cart, was a time of delightful fellowship. One of the first things we noticed, with something akin to surprise, was that these were not out-of- 31 % 32 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST the -world, buried -alive people at all. Separated by many a range of mountains and several weeks’ journey from the railway, they were as bright and keen as if in the heart of London. Mr. Mann’s alertness was stimulating, and Mrs. Mann filled all the time from the foot-hills to the city with interest¬ ing information. Oh, that great plain — populous and far-reaching — what a field for evangelistic work ! One mission¬ ary’s time might well be spent in this alone. Mr. Mann is too busy to be out much, with all there is to be done in church and schools and guest-hall, not to speak of the street chapel. Talking all the way, we hardly noticed that we were nearing the suburbs, until we caught sight of a long line of people on the road in front of us. “ What a nice-looking set of boys ! Who can they be ? ” “ Our scholars and teachers,” was the reply. “ They have come out to welcome you.” My husband alighted at once to receive and return their greetings, and as we passed between the double row in which the boys were ranged, according to ages, we obtained our first impression of the size and importance of the Lanchow schools. Dr. R. Parry and Mr. Botham were there and rode ahead of us on horseback. With several of the smaller boys on our carts and the rest following, we were quite a procession as we entered the city. Massive gates, crowded streets, a sense of life and activity, fine shops, temples, mosques, and public buildings — could this be far-away Lanchow ? On the main street, near the Governor’s Yamen, the LANCHOW AT LAST 33 mission-house was reached. A crowd gathered about the door, and many of the Christians were there to greet us. Other friends appeared from an inner courtyard, including Mr. and Mrs. Moore, Mrs. Parry, and their children. It was a joy to be there at last and see face to face many of whom we had been hearing, and then to stand together between the church and the fine new buildings of the school and give thanks to God for a safe journey and for His work at this important centre. The first thing, of course, was to see the school, for the new buildings had only been opened two weeks previously. A need for higher education for the sons of Christian families had long been felt, and at a Conference of the three Missions working in the province the Chinese delegates had urged that steps might be taken to meet it. Lanchow was decided upon as the best centre for a Union Middle School, which Mr. Mann undertook to develop by adding the necessary classes to his already well-organised junior department. But funds for suitable class¬ rooms were needed, and much prayer was made about the matter. Some months after the Confer¬ ence, Mr. Andrew (then Superintendent of the C.I.M. work in the province) was entertaining at dinner his friend, Deacon Kuoh, when the subject came up. Mr. G. F. Andrew — beloved for his own as well as his father’s sake — was present, and said smilingly : “ Well, Mr. Kuoh, what willyow give ? ” The prompt reply was, “ Fifty dollars.” “ And what are you good for ? ” went on the questioner, turning to Mr. Mann. D 34 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST “If you give fifty, I will ! ’’ was the unexpected answer. Mr. Kuoh, warming up, said that Deacon Li in the Salt Gabelle would surely give fifty. At a dinner in his own house, however, Mr. Li surprised them by going further. “ Deacon Kuoh must not stop at fifty,’’ he ex¬ claimed. “ I will give a hundred, and so must he ! ’’ This was soon agreed upon and reported to Mr. Andrew, who, while rejoicing in the turn affairs had taken, was obliged to call a halt as far as his own share was concerned, for he had promised to double whatever contribution the church made, little thinking there would be giving after this sort. It was something new indeed, and showed that God’s time had come for larger developments. Soon after, the son of the Governor, a young man who had been much helped by Mr. G. F. Andrew’s friendship, said that his father would want a share in the good work. The Governor fulfilled these expectations, not only giving five hundred dollars himself but saying that other officials would help also. The Mohammedan General and several others gave liberally, feeling it a good thing for the city to have a strong Christian school, so that when Mr. Mann returned to take charge of the station he found over seventeen hundred taels in hand, and the total soon reached two thousand. The building just completed has used about half this sum, but a second structure is planned for, and if by the blessing of God the school continues to prosper, large extension will be needed. The open¬ ing of the present building, just before we came, LANCHOW AT LAST 35 was a great occasion. The Governor, his sons, and seventeen leading officials took part, magnificent in robes and retinue. An amusing difficulty arose about finding a chair spacious enough to accommodate His Excellency, whose proportions are in keeping with his office ; but one was produced at last, and carried with dispatch from place to place, wherever he might wish to be seated. Finally it found its way to Mrs. Mann’s dining-room, where a repast had been prepared — a foreign dinner in twelve courses, which had taxed even her ingenuity, but which was greatly appreciated. The new Manager of the Government Bank said to Mr. Mann afterwards : " I was not here when gifts were being made for the school. But if you want help in future, please let me know about it.” With seventy boys on the premises, visitors at all hours, a Girls’ School for which there is no place save the inner courtyard, patients coming for medicine, and all the Sunday and week-day meetings of an active, growing church, no wonder the Lanchow mission-house is overcrowded. The premises consist of only two courtyards, divided by the chapel which overlooks both. There is no upper story, save in the new school building, and the rooms at the back in which the missionaries live are somewhat dark and damp. But the situation right in the busiest part of the city is splendid. Whenever the street-chapel is open, usually every day, it is filled with listeners ; and if more time could be given to this work, and to preaching in the country round about, it might become richly productive. 36 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST It is productive now. For the first fifteen years there was little to encourage in the way of genuine conversions. Up to the dark days of 1900 there were only about ten baptized believers. Now there are more than ten times that number, and they are taking a large share in the affairs of the church, both secular and spiritual. The school, which is entirely self-supporting, is managed by a Committee of three Chinese and two foreigners. Church matters are dealt with by the deacons in consultation with the missionary in charge. They have no Chinese pastor as yet, but are praying for a good man and are prepared to support him. The deacons mean¬ while do much of the preaching and pastoral work, without remuneration. They are keen about the new church building that is needed, the present chapel being far too small for the numbers who attend the services. Talking with Mr. Mann about it recentlv, one of them mentioned that he would give a hundred dollars toward the building. Another deacon who was present added fifty, and the third coming in just then said he would give three hundred. Upon this, the first raised his gift. Others joined in, and in a few minutes eight hundred dollars had been promised. The building would cost much more than this, but the church members are eager to do all they can — though many of them are poor — and will probably subscribe another thousand. More cheer¬ ing still is their readiness to join in outdoor preaching and evangelistic missions, and to help in the street- chapel on Sundays. One elderly man came in, soon after we arrived, from a preaching journey. He had promised to give LANCHOW AT LAST 37 ten days’ work, as he could not afford money, and after six days in the villages had returned for more books, full of joy because many had listened to the message. It was beautiful to see his love and earnestness. Preaching as he went, he had sold out all his books in the first week. The money paid for them he had brought in to give to the Lord, deduct¬ ing nothing for his expenses. “ I carried bread from home,” he explained, “ which was all I needed. The people gave me shelter for the night.” With a fresh supply of books, for which he paid in full, he was soon on his way again, eager to carry the message to those who had never heard. “ The barren days for Kansu are past,” said one of the missionaries with thankfulness. But how urgently more labourers, Spirit - filled men and women, are needed ! CHAPTER V ORIENT AND OCCIDENT To stand in the doorway of the mission-house at Lanchow, or step out on the busy street, was to receive impressions that had not previously come to us in any city in China. The moving crowds were fascinating, and the questions that sprang to one’s lips endless. What was it — this sense of having passed somehow into a wider world ? In Cairo and Damascus we had seen figures like these, but what were they doing here in a remote comer of China ? What connection could this far inland province have with India, Persia, and Turkestan ? The Road, the Road — the ancient highway running from this city on the Yellow River to meet in the heart of Central Asia similar roads from the Indian Ocean, the Caspian Sea, and the Levant — we were beginning to appreciate what it meant ! For Lanchow, according to Viscount d’Ollone,1 is the eastern terminus of the highway which for centuries has united the rich marts of Orient and Occident. At Kashgar, two thousand miles away, though still in Chinese territory, it connects with 1 Le Commandant d’Ollone, in his recent work, Rechcrches sur les Musulmans chinois (1911). 38 ORIENT AND OCCIDENT 39 converging roads from north, south, and west, over which the tides of life and commerce have flowed since the early dawn of history, and are flowing still. Through the Western Gate of China these have poured their wealth into the million-peopled pro¬ vinces which have had so much to give in return. Thus one learns to meet without surprise in Lanchow streets and market-places the Hindu merchant with his silks and pearls, the Mohammedan pilgrim re¬ turning from Mecca, the bearded trader from Chinese or Russian Turkestan, and the turbaned Ch’an-t’eo from the Moslem cities of Central Asia. They bring a sense of far distances, these men with their top- boots and girdles, high hats and turbans, with their long trains of camels and strong-featured faces ! Different again are the red-robed figures we see here for the first time — lamas from the Tibetan monasteries and sturdy mountaineers from that land of mystery and darkness. The latter, clad in sheep¬ skin, rough-headed and with the shyness of wild creatures, seemed out of keeping with luxury and display of a city like this, but for us they had an attraction far greater than that of the well-dressed crowds. Eagerly we watched for them, followed them as they loitered in the market-place, and listened to the strange language they talked with so much animation. But they were few in number, and there was much else to claim our attention. It was a surprise to find Lanchow a city of so much style and military importance. One knew, of course, that as the governing centre of a province it would be a rendezvous for the official classes, but we were hardly prepared for the way in which the 40 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST new army was in evidence. Officers and soldiers in foreign uniforms seemed in possession of the city. Bugles were blowing at all hours, and near the Governor’s residence there was a constant movement of military men. This was partly due, no doubt, to apprehension of a Mohammedan uprising which seemed imminent — all thought of which was swept away, however, by the earthquake which took place five days after we reached the city. Meanwhile, as if unconscious of impending danger, business and pleasure went on as usual. The great enclosure before the Governor’s Yamen was thronged with people watching the coming and going of officials of all ranks. Horses, saddled and waiting, were paraded by alert attendants, while through the open doors one caught vistas of wide places, court after court, where matters of importance were being dealt with. Outside the enclosure lay the crowded market, a cosmopolitan bazaar in which everything could be bought from foreign cigarettes to Tibetan butter. Beyond, came the better-class shops of the main street, tempting with their furs and broadcloth made of the finest camel’s-hair and dyed in beautiful colours. Shoe-shops and hat-shops were a strange mingling of old and new in the matter of taste, the dignified black satin of former times being largely replaced by yellow leather footgear and knitted woollen caps in startling shades and shapes. It was a relief to turn to stores which were less modernised, and to read over an old-fashioned book-shop the familiar sign, “ Walking the Clouds Hall.” As to style, we had never seen anything like it, for the variety of equipages in this northern city and ORIENT AND OCCIDENT 4i the severity of the climate gave scope for more display than in the south. Furs and velvets were in common use, and adorned the saddles of riding horses as well as the interior of sedan-chairs and private carts. Some of the latter were fitted with cushions of gorgeous colours and lined with white fox in panels on purple velvet. And the dress of the elite was in keeping. Such furs ! from the treasures of Mongolia and Tibet, some of them with leopards’ spots and stripes that seemed melting into moonlight, to fleecy lambs’-skins, black and white, and all made up on rich brocaded satins. But these were only passing impressions, caught with many another amid the moving throngs. First, last, and far more clamant was the appeal of this great city for Christian service. What a centre for the Church of Christ to occupy in strength ! Think only of the young men, thousands of whom are here on business, as students, or in Government employ, away from home and exposed to every temptation. A Young Men’s Christian Association, with “ Christian ” given the right place, is a need of which one is constantly reminded in Lanchow. A man fitted for this work could count upon co-operation from the Chinese Christians, some of whom are deeply burdened about the young fellows pouring into the city, so many of whom are obliged to live in inns, where gamblers, opium- smokers, and singing women congregate. It is enough to burden any Christian heart. Then there are the soldiers of the standing army, many of whom might be reached in connection with such a Y.M.C.A. arnd with the help of its members. 42 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST How this need would have appealed to William Borden, the Yale student who gave his life and fortune to God for missionary service, and who heard as few have heard it the call of this great North-West ! His early death in Cairo, while studying Arabic with a view to reaching the Mohammedans of this province, robbed Kansu of one of its truest friends and the C.I.M. of one of its most promising workers. The Borden Memorial Hospital keeps his memory fresh here by the Yellow River ; but oh for his loving heart, his prayerful Christ like spirit, his ardent youth and splendid manhood, to win for Christ the young men of this city ! May the Master he so truly loved, and Whose holy companionship made him what he was, fit and call out others for this waiting work. A visit to the hospital was, of course, one of the first expeditions to be made, and a long business it proved, for it was one thing to get to the river and quite another to cross it. In Mrs. Mann’s private cart we had to wait amid the traffic at the bridge-head outside the North Gate of the city, traffic as congested as on any bridge in London. One reason for the delay was that each cart must take its turn to drop on to one of the little trolleys, just wide enough to hold the wheels, by which they are conveyed across the bridge. The trolley, running on tram¬ lines, is drawn by the animals of the cart, the wheels of which do not come into requisition again until it plunges into the waiting crowd of mules and camels, carts and drivers on the other side. Pedestrians jostle their way through the same blockade to the ORIENT AND OCCIDENT 43 footpaths to right and left of the bridge, by which they cross in a few minutes. It is a wonderful achievement in the eyes of the Chinese to have superseded the bridge of boats, only usable at certain seasons, with this permanent, light-looking span, so strong that the heavy traffic hardly seems to shake it, and so high that it is far above the highest water-mark. Waiting for our turn at the bridge-head we had a good opportunity for watching the people, who were too busy to take much notice of us. We could smile unobserved at an amusing fashion which seemed popular among the younger men — the huge fur collar, standing up all round the head as high as the top of the hat, with just a narrow opening in front for the wearer to look out at ! More to our mind were the fur caps in great variety, all of which had devices for covering ears and neck and forehead too, right down to the eyebrows. During the warmer part of the day, these were jauntily rolled back, but no sooner did the sun disappear than they came into requisition again, leaving little to be seen but the eyes and nose of the well-protected wearer. Waiting in the cart we had also time to take in something of the farther shore. The suburb with which the bridge connects is long and narrow, because the mountains rising from the river-bank only allow room enough for one street from end to end. The chief importance of the suburb seems to be that it is on the great road, which crosses the river at this point and starts with a long ascent on its way to Central Asia. Then there are temples of special interest overlooking the river, for these 44 CALL OF CHINA’S GREAT NORTH-WEST northern heights are a favourite resort for pilgrims. Very striking was the scene in brilliant sunshine — temples all the way from water to skyline one above the other, the larger, more important ones being on the busy street and at the summit, while in between smaller ones afford resting-places all the way up. Facing south they have much the same outlook as the hospital, which is farther down the river, some ten minutes’ walk from the bridge. The situation is glorious as regards fresh air and sunshine, though the distance from the city must affect the number of patients. Tier above tier rise the wards on their separate courtyards, like spreading wings, for men on one side and for women on the other. In between stand the doctors’ houses, immediately above the central building with its out¬ patient department. There the operating-rooms and private wards are situated, and a covered bridge connects the upper story with the path to the doctors’ houses. It was a joy to stand at those south windows or walk up and down in the sunshine on any of the terraces and look out over that magnifi¬ cent river, slowly carrying down great floes of ice from Tibet. The wood-yards near the water were piled high with Tibetan timber, and on the farther shore rose the turreted wall, massive gates, and outstanding buildings of the city. It was a disappointment to see little of the regular work of the hospital, Dr. King’s absence on furlough and the intense cold of winter having almost emptied the wards. The patients who were still there were well cared for by Dr. and Mrs. Parry, Miss Knox, and their Chinese fellow- workers, but the chief interest for T3 V •*-» tn OJ ^ ■£ 5 £ ^3