JIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIJ J • I No : Shelf 1 1 ^ t" I LIBRARY OF | tl r\ > I T. HARRY SPRAGUE. I i Price Purchased i d E 1 fiiiiiiiiiiiHiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinniiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin OF P3«Jf>x JAN 29 191 n # DU 746 .C4 R6 Robson, William, 1785-1863. James Chalmers MR. CHALMERS STORl'INU THE EKJllT AT DELEiNA. [/. lol. JAMES 'CHALMERS' OF ^ftP(0T0MQft aHd Kew quiK£;ft BY WILLIAM R O B S O N OF THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY. FLEMING H. REVELL CHICAGO : 148 & 150 MADISON STREET. PUBLISHER OF EVANGELICAL LITERATURE. NEW YORK : 12 BIBLE HOUSE PREFACE. A LIFE more varied than that of James Chalmers cannot be found in the annals of Christian service. Many of its highest acts of heroism are unrecorded. The reference to his work in Rarotonga is neces- sarily brief Numerous reforms were introduced into the Mission there. He was not the man to rest content with a round of duties which might be helpful only to those who voluntarily came to church or lived near the Mission premises, but regarded every soul upon the island as put by God under his care, and having equal claims for spiritual help. Thus he interpreted the command, " Go ye unto every creature." Those ten years in Rarotonga were a fitting pre- lude to the more difficult work performed in New Guinea. The perils attendant upon much of it we can but imperfectly realise. In writing the biography of a living person there are many limitations. Mr. Chalmers has allowed this book to be published in the hope that it may be helpful to Mission work in that great land, so 5 VI PREFACE. much of which still lies in heathen darkness. He has expressly stipulated that all laudatory comment upon himself shall be avoided, adding the injunction, " Remember I am not dead yet, and hope to work there many years hence." He generously records the help given by those devoted native pastors, such as Piri and Ruatoka, who were so often his companions, and the brave native crews, who, for love of " Tamate " (his native name) faced dangerous seas in an open boat, at seasons of the year considered unfit for travel. Mrs. Chalmers's life deserves a longer notice. Sufficient is said, however, to show that she was equally possessed of missionary zeal, and exercised a noble self-denial. She spent her life for love of Jesus. Portions of Mr. Chalmers's journal have already been published by the Religious Tract Society, under the titles " Work and Adventure in New Guinea," and " Pioneering in New Guinea." The writer gratefully acknowledges the help rendered by the Rev. Principal Reynolds, D.D., President of Cheshunt College ; the Rev. A. T. Saville, of Rye, formerly missionary, in the South Seas ; the Rev. G. Meikle and Mr. J. McArthur, of Inveraray ; the Rev. J. M. Jarvie, of Greenock ; the Rev. W. Garratt Horder, of Wood Green ; and the Rev. R. Pringle of Shipley. He is also especially indebted to Mrs. Harrison, of Retford ; Miss Hill, of Withernsea ; Miss Buchan, of Stratford ; and Miss Hercus, of Plumstead, for information respecting the early life of Mrs. Chalmers, and for the loan of portions of her correspondence. CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE I. WRECK OF THE JOHN .WILLIAMS — EARLY LIFE —.VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ... 9 IL LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA, . . . . 26 III. NEW GUINEA — FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH OF THE MISSION, . . . . ' . . .46 IV. EXPLORING FOR STATIONS— COAST VISITS,', . . 'J'J V. ERRANDS OF PEACE, MERCY, AND JUSTICE, . . 87 VI. VOYAGE IN A LAKATOI TO- THE GULF OF NEW ■ GUINEA, 117 VII. MISSION WORK — PROTECTORATE PROCLAIMED — TOUR WITH THE SPECIAL COMMISSIONER — RETURN TO ENGLAND, . . . . 135 NEW GUINEA DRUM. 8 «-^ JAMES CHALMERS. CHAPTER I. WRECK OF THE JOHN WILLIAMS — EARLY LIFE AND TRAINING — VOYAGE TO. THE SOUTH SEAS. " In spite of rock and tempest's roar, In spite of false lights on the shore, Sail on nor fear to breast the sea ! Our hearts, our hopes, are all with thee, Our hearts, our hopes, our prayers, our tears, Our faith triumphant o'er our fears. Are all with thee, — are all with thee>" — Longfellow. ON the 8th of January, 1867, in the absence of a suitable anchorage, a gallant ship was to be seen in the Pacific Ocean tacking up and down in front of Nine, or Savage Island, a wary eye being kept by her captain on the danger arising from the coral reef which surrounded the land. 10 JAMES CHAt-MERS. A casual spectator would have been puzzled to tell the work in which the noble vessel was engaged. At first glance the smartness of her rigging, her trim sails, white deck, substantial build, and the fine workmanship everywhere visible, seemed to indicate an unarmoured cruiser or despatch ship, but the absence of guns dispelled that thought. She was so unlike the vessels usually sailing in those waters that one would have asked involuntarily, "What can she be ? " A careful scrutiny of the flag at the masthead proclaims The Messenger of Peace, and the spectator knows that this must be the long-expected ship of the London Missionary Society ; the second bearing the honoured name oi Jolm Williams, The nature of the goods which are being lowered into the boats at her side is then guessed. As they approach the reef it seems impossible that any one can land there. A narrow opening appears in the wall of rocks, filled with foam. Only on a very calm day can a boat go in there. But light canoes come off. The captain steps into one and is paddled to the edge of the breakers, when strong men lift him on their shoulders and carry him through the foam up the steep rocks. A heavy sea overtakes them, they stand firm, it passes and then recedes. Now another run and he is placed on firm ground some distance up the coral rock. In the afternoon the captain returns, accompanied by his wife and the Rev. James and Mrs. Chalmers. At the ship's side the boats are soon unladen of their cargoes of vegetables, the sails are set, and the ship stands out to sea for the night About seven the breeze begins to lessen, and soon dies away. The sails only flap against the mast as the ship sways on WRECK OF TH^ JOHN WILLIAMS. 1 1 the rolling waves. A placid calm prevails, and the declining sun makes all things glorious with his crimson beams. The passengers and crew watch the tranquil scene. Nellie, a fine Newfoundland dog, gazes steadily through the- open port-hole and con- templates the water, then, giving her huge body a jerk, as if a twinge of conscience brought to her mind the fact that a family of twelve' small puppies requires supper, she slowly trots along the deck to where that rowdy litter has a home. It would be hard to say who showed most pride and interest in that family — their mother or the sturdy sailors. But public attention is now fixed upon the water, where two currents are contending — one, caused by the departed wind, leading from the land ; and the other, a heavy swell, which proves the stronger, and moves towards the island. They are a long way out to sea, and no thought of danger arises. The ship drifts astern, as it often did in a calm. It is wise, however, to take precautions early, so at a quarter to eight o'clock the whale-boat is lowered and takes the ship in tow ; soon the pinnace is sent down, and then the gig follows suit. Still, with three boats at work and every sail trimmed, the ship goes astern. As the darkness deepens it is seen that she draws nearer and nearer that fatal reef Every nerve is strained, the united and sustained efforts of relays of strong arms are put forth, but in vain. The ship continues her steady course towards the reef; About nine o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers, Mr. and Mrs. Davies, and Mrs. Williams, the captain's wife, repair to the saloon for prayer. Strong and fervent are their supplications. Again and again they implore their Father in heaven to save their beautiful ship — His own vessel, — built by the exer- tions of thousands of earnest young hearts, and 12 JAMES CHALMERS. solemnly dedicated to His service. But their prayers of faith are not answered in the way they desire. Now rapid footsteps are heard, and going on deck they find that rockets and blue lights are being fired to inform friends on shore of their danger, although it is • well known that they can render no help. The lead line is thrown, but no bottoni can be found. About ten o'clock it was evident that unless a breeze speedily came they would lose the ship, and Captain Williams advised all to get a change of clothing. In a few minutes the gig is brought alongside and the ladies dropped from the side of the vessel into it. No time for ceremony now, seventy-two souls have to be provided for in those boats, and already the back swell from the reef can be felt on board the ship. At 11.25 ^11 have left ; but stay, where is Nellie and her family? An active tar scales the ship's side, the mother is sent down in a noose," eight of the whining family are kennelled in a bucket and lowered, then the sailor, carefully buttoning up the remaining four in the breast of his shirt, swings himself into the pinnace, as proud of saving the dogs as he had been helpful in delivering the alarmed passengers. In a very few minutes they hear the ship strike with. a frightful noise which sends pain to every heart, and plainly tells that there is no hope of her being saved. The night is pitchy dark, and the boats are kept together by ropes, as they fear being driven out to sea and have no provisions or water. The Mission premises are some miles distant, and now rain comes down in thoroughly tropical style. All are speedily wet to the skin, and feel very cold. Mr. Chalmers, who was one of the last to leave the ship, is separated from his wife, and has begun early to show coolness and forethought in the midst of danger. He has EARLY LIFE AND TRAINING. 1 3 prepared himself for swimming, and consequently has neither coat, vest, nor boots. A succession of lights are kept burning by people ashore, which enable them at three o'clock to find the opening, and by 4.30 the natives have safely carried all over the surf-beaten rocks. The coloured teachers and their families went with the people of Niue, and all the Europeans were received with deep sympathy at the Mission House by the Rev. W. G. and Mrs. Lawes. While the hero and heroine of our story are detained upon 'Niue and collecting a few articles from the wreck of the John Williams, we will briefly refer to their previous history and training. The father of James Chalmers came from Aberdeen, His mother was a handsome Highland lassie, whose dark expressive eyes, well cut features, quick energetic movements, and loving disposition, are all reproduced in her son. James was born in 1841 at Ardrishaig, and w^hen quite an infant his parents removed to Inveraray, twenty-three miles higher up Loch Fyne. He was a lively boy, full of mirth and fun. This disposition has been of the greatest value, enabling him to acquire friends everywhere, and to attract the wildest savages by its fascinating influence. His first education was obtained in Glenaray School under Mr. John McArthur, who testifies to his pupil's attention to lessons. He was very successful as a prize-taker, and passed an examination for pupil-teacher. His school-master loved him as one of his own boys, and received much help from him in the croft at haymaking during the summer holidays. He was leader in all school sports, and had a natural ambition to excel in deeds of mischief and daring. 14 . JAMES CHALMERS. So irrepressible was his love of fun that his mother was in constant fear when he was out of her sight. Twice was he taken home to all appearance drowned. At the age of fourteen he formed a Robin Hood Band and successfully led it to many queer exploits. When still a stripling he saved four lives from drown- ing. Although his parents belonged to the Established Church of Scotland, James attended the United Presbyterian Sunday school. . One Sunday, when he was fifteen years old, the pastor, the Rev. Gilbert Meikle, addressed the school on mission work in the Fiji Islands, and in closing said, " I wonder if there is any lad here who will yet become a missionary. Is there one who will go to the heathen and to savages and tell them of God and His love?" Chalmers inwardly said, " I will " ; and on his way home he went behind a stone wall, and kneeling down, vowed to serve Christ. These impressions proved transient, and the vow of consecration to mission service was forgotten for several years, during which he was employed as clerk in a lawyer's office at Inveraray. He gave up the Sabbath school, but continued to attend Sunday evening service in the church, the pastor observing him as an eager listener. When sixteen years old Chalmers arranged with two other lads to run away to sea. The appointed night came, and his little bundle was ready for the boat they were to take in the early morning. He could not sleep ; all night he lay awake thinking of his mother's broken heart. The others went, but James remained at home. He now gave up regular attendance at church, and the pastor thought that he sought to avoid him, and also felt that he was losing his influence. Towards EARLY LIFE AND TRAINING. 15 the end of 1859 two young men from the north of Ireland were labouring as evangelists in Inveraray, and the whole town was moved. Chalmers felt the prevailing influence, and the first token of this was his crossing the street to shake hands with his pastor. They had confidential intercourse, and Mr. Meikle was greatly interested in the convictions and struggles of that young heart ; but the crisis was delayed for a time. When it came it was sudden and sharp. One Sunday evening after the service he was brought into a state of the greatest spiritual anxiety, and gave open expression to his feelings. That night, after long, and earnest, wrestling in prayer, he attained the peace his heart longed for. ' . There was no hesitation with Chalmers as to how he should comport himself before the world. He was not the man to hedge himself around and live a defensive Christian life. His bold spirit now assailed the spiritual powers which had held him in bondage. Joining the United Presbyterian Church he became a teacher in the Sunday school, and devoted himself to evangelistic work. After office hours he held meetings in houses throughout the town and neighbourhood, and 'was the means of awakening many. With such ardour did he pursue this kind of work that his health was injured for a time. He then thought of becoming a, city missionary, and made application to the Directors of the Glasgow City Mission, who, after an interview, elected him one of their agents in connec- tion with the Greyfriars' United Presbyterian Church, under the Rev. Dr. Calderwood. This new employ was prosecuted in the same earnest and energetic way, and his friends and the Church at Inveraray were frequently appealed to for special help in necessitous cases. His work was 1 6 JAMES CHALMERS. greatly blessed ; many received eternal good, his Bible-class had 130 members, and all the services he held were well attended. While thus engaged he met in Glasgow the Rev. George Turner, LL.D., of Samoa, who called his attention to the London Missionary Society and its work. His vow to serve Christ in the foreisTn field now came to his mind, the way seemed opened, and by Dr. Turner's advice he applied to the Directors of the London Missionary Society. After due examination he was accepted and sent to Cheshunt College for training. While entertaining due gratitude to the Society for the training thus provided, it is known that he now regrets that he did not earn it by his own efforts, believing that an education thus worked for is much more conducive to manliness and self-reliance in after life. There is a wonderful unanimity in the testimony respecting Mr. Chalmers given by his tutors and fellow-students. His active missionary career in Glasgow was not a favourable preparative for prol'onged hours of study. Being eminently sociable he imbibed and quickly assimilated ideas from his fellow-students, and still more from the tender and gracious influence of the Principal, Dr. Reynolds. Here, too, he was one of the leaders in amusements. A favourite game of his was plying a raft on the river which runs through the college grounds. This usually ended in his getting a good ducking. There are records of at least four persons whom he pulled out of the river Lea during his college course. The last occasion was after he had removed to Highgate Institution. He had come to preach a missionary sermon at Hertford Heath, and in the EARLY LIFE AND TRAINING. 1/ afternoon accompanied some students to Broxbourne. As- it was very warm several took to the water. Presently one got out of his depth, made a good deal of commotion, and cried for help. Chalmers jumped, in with his best clothes on, and soon dragged him out. • Returning to the college one of his intimate friends (now the Rev. R. Pringle) supplied a change of clothing which made up in length what they lacked in breadth, and off the brave fellow went to the •service. He made light of the rescue, but it was a noble self-sacrificing act. His sermons as a student were of a rough and ready sort, but always practical, and spoken with such ' sincerity and conviction that it was no wonder the people of the village stations heartily appreciated him. He was at home in some Hebrew story, and especially fond of the two texts, Dan. iii. 21 and I Sam. xviii. 4 : "Coats, hosen, and hats," and "Sword, bow, and girdle," — the one relating to perhaps the most cour- ageous act in the Old Testament, the other to the most generous. He took enthusiastically to all kinds of mission work, visiting diligently the poor and aged, and preaching in the open air. On one occasion he courageously addressed a crowd of gin-drinking holiday-makers at the famous Rye House. But the best thing about him was his thorough goodness and kindness of heart ; though a poor man, he would part with his last shilling to help another. Dr. Reynolds writes respecting Mr. Chalmers : " He gave me the idea of lofty consecration to the Divine work of saving those for whom Christ died. His faith was simple, unswerving, and enthusiastic, and while he could throw a giant's strength into all kinds of work, he was gentle as a child and submissive as a 1 8 JAMES CHALMERS. soldier. He used to pray for help as if he were at his mother's knee, and to preach as though he were sure of the message he had then to deliver." In the summer of 1864, ten missionary students were withdrawn from various colleges and sent for a year's special training under the Rev. Dr. J. S. Wardlaw, at the London Missionary Society's Institu- tion, Highgate. One of these was James Chalmers. It was a. year of wondrous happiness and expectancy to these young men, whose thoughts and conversation daily turned towards the life-work and scenes upon which they were so soon to enter. A few days after they assembled, the house trem- bled, and Mrs. Wardlaw in dismay searched about for the cause of the unusual commotion. Upon entering a. room around which the students were seated, she found that it was only the lively Chalniers enter- taining them with a. Highland fling. Early one Sunday morning all were startled from sleep by a loud report, which made every window jingle. As the students sat up and looked about, a lady's voice was heard from the staircase exclaiming, " I suppose it is Mr. Chalmers at one of his noisy games again." This time, however, it was not the vivacious student, but a terrible explosion at the Erith powder mills, fifteen miles distant. During the first part of his stay at Highgate, Mr. Chalmers was intensely anxious to -be sent to Africa. Dr. Livingstone was then in England speaking on behalf of missions, and preparing for further travels, and "his young countryman's heart went out towards the unexplored continent. But the Divine Arranger • of events had planned explorations for him to do in another country. When the Directors of the London Missionary EARLY LIFE AND TRAINING. 19 Society appointed him to Rarotonga, he made no resistance, believing that the decision had been guided by God, and his heart was soon aglow with enthusiasm for work in the South Sea Islands. He and others, however, had to exercise patience, as the ship which was to carry them there was still building at Aberdeen. The old missionary ship, JoJin Williams^ having FIRST "JOHN WILLIAMS" ON REEF AT PUKAl'UKA. been vvrecked at Pukapuka, many thousands of young- people were then busily collecting the funds for the new vessel. While waiting her arrival, Mr. Chalmers and his fellow-student, Mr. Saville, resided at Woolwich with the Rev. John Hercus, and studied the Rarotongan language under the Rev. William Gill, who had been a rhissionary in the Hervey Group. They 20 JAMES CHALMERS. also pursued medical studies, and found time to practise photography. At last the ship was ready, and the young mission- aries were told to prepare for ordination, which was also to be followed by their marriage, and a speedy •^ departure. ■ • ■ The young lady who had consented to be the help- mate of Mr. Chalmers in his mission work, was possessed of considerable gifts and graces, and proved to be quite as brave and devoted in her sphere of work. Miss Jane Hercus was the daughter of Mr. Peter Hercus, a wholesale merchant in Greenock, who in 1865 emigrated to New Zealand. She was descended on both sides from a succession of pious .ancestors. Her mother died when Jane was about five years old. She was the eldest of four children, and early developed staid and thoughtful ways, though naturally a bright and happy girl. Her maternal grandfather, the Rev. George Robertson, died in 1854, when she was about fourteen, and his widow removed to Kirk- wall, in the Orkney Islands. Thither came Jane to watch over and tenderly care for her. dear grand- mother. For five years she remained in close attendance, seeking no amusement, or even the com- -panlonship of those of her own age, but devoting herself wholly to the discharge of her filial duties, without seeming to feel that any sacrifice was demanded of her. Doubtless this was the prepara- tion time for that faithfulness to duty so conspicuous In her rhissionary life. In 1858, Miss Hercus professed decision for Christ, and joined the Church under the Rev. J. McNaughton. This- was by no means the beginning of her Christian life, but the expression of an experience gained at a much earlier date. From childhood she had been EARLY LIFE AND TRAINING. 21 distinguished for a devoutness which indicated the working of a higher power. The pious ancestry and gracious influences of a Christian home largely helped to form her singularly beautiful character, although the chief factor in this work was her deep genuine love of the Lord Jesus Christ. Of a retiring disposition, she shrank from publicity or display. Observers who remarked this gentle meekness, amounting almost to timidity, would never have anticipated that underneath that attractive grace lay a dauntless spirit capable of the noblest actions, and able to endure those manifold " perils of death " which she so bravely encountered in the mission field. Miss Hercus was a devoted worker in various forms of Christian service. On the death of her grand- mother in 1858, she returned to Greenock. When her parents removed to Glasgow in 1861, she pursued a course of study, and was afterwards engaged in tuition at Waterbeck. After her family went to New Zealand in 1865, Miss Hercus stayed at Inveraray until her marriage on 8th November of that year, and secured the love and admiration of her friends there. The missionaries embarked on board the JoJin Williams ow the 4th of January, 1866, accompanied by a large party of friends, and after a special service on the quarter-deck, all went below. A circle was formed in the saloon. All joined hands, and, led by Mr. Chalmers, sang " Auld Lang Syne." They encountered bad weather in the Channel, but Mr. Chalmers was on deck in all weathers, helping the sailors or listening to their yarns. He was always at home among these hardy sons of Neptune, and at once began missionary operations, teaching a 22 JAMES CHALMERS. Bible class and conducting a prayer-meeting in the forecastle. By these means and earnest conversation, several of the roughest of the crew were brought into Christ's service. His restless spirit ever led him into what Mrs. Chalmers viewed as places of danger, now climbing the rigging — again astride -the bowsprit. Sometimes he would take his Rarotongan Bible and dictionary, and mounting to the cross-trees of the main-mast, study the language he was soon to speak. Although he returned safely, he brought smears of tar and grease upon his white clothing, causing much concern to his tidy wife. The vessel was nearly lost in the Channel, and had to put into Weymouth for repairs. Twenty-one ships sank in the Channel during that gale. The other missionaries went ashore, but Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers refused to go. " No," he said, " I will stand by the ship, the captain, and crew." Mrs. Chalmers wrote, " Hope has not fled from our hearts, but we shall yet see the South Seas. We do not feel frightened to go . on our way." Mrs. Chalmers' father met them at Adelaide, and went on to Melbourne. To her joy he proposed to take her to New Zealand, and send her to Sydney in time to sail with the JoJin Williams from there. She was thus enabled to visit her united family once more, and spent three happy weeks at Dunedin. While thus engaged, Mr. Chalmers went with the ship to Geelong, Hobart Town, and Sydney. At the latter place he was very active, preaching three times on Sunday, and speaking at meetings nearly every week-night. The good people were very kind to the missionaries. They were especially happy to meet some retired brethren who had laboured in K w. in W n o o r f > 24 JAMES CHALMERS. Rarotonga, and to hear their kind and glowing account of the native Christians. On the 5th of September thQ Jolm Williams struck on a sunken reef as she was entering .the harbour of Aneityum. The missionaries went ashore, but Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers stayed on board to comfort and help Captain and Mrs. Williams. They did not think at first that- much damage was done, but in a few hours found that the ship was leaking very much. The pumps were kept going through a long dreary night. During the next three days and nights the Christian natives worked at the pumps whilst . the crew and missionaries lightened the vessel by discharging the cargo. Mr. Chalmers worked, alternately with each. On the 8th of September a large number of sturdy natives were gathered on the deck of the vessel -by Mr. Chalmers and his colleague Mr. Saville. Led by the two young missionaries, more active than weighty, the assembled crowd jumped and ran together with such good effect that the ship slid off the reef into deep water. . These native Christians would not accept any pay- ment for the long course of pumping, and twenty-two of them readily consented to undertake the same duty during her perilous voyage to Sydney fpr repairs. Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers went too, and the Presbyterian Mission ship, the Dayspring^ accompanied them, in case it was found necessary to abandon the John Williams. Had she not been an exceptionally strong ship she would doubtless have gone down during that long voyage. On returning, to Aneityum they took on the missionaries and called at Uvea, Lifu Mare, and Nine. Here the missionaries went ashore. After several days, the supplies for the island were landed, and Captain Williams arranged for them to go on board VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. 2$ the next day to proceed to Samoa. Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers accompanied him as described in the com- mencement of this chapter. That night the John Williams was wrecked, and all were doomed to wait three weary months upon this lonely island until Captain Hayes, better known as Bully Hayes, arrived in his notorious brig the Rona. He had seen the wreck, and landed to inquire about the disaster. Soon arrangements were made for him to convey Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers to Rarotonga, and Mr. and Mrs. Saville to Huahine. They called at Samoa, Tahiti, Huahine, Mangaia, and Aitutaki, thus visiting all the principal islands which the London Missionary Society occupied in the South Seas. On the 20th of May, 1867, seventeen months after, leaving London, they reached Rarotonga, and began their labours with as much courage and earnestness as if nothing had happened to hinder their journey or damp their ardour. STONE ADZE. INSTITUTION AND MISSION HOUSE, AVARUA, RAROTONGA. CHAPTER II. LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. RAROTONGA is a coral island, and the largest of the Hervey group. It is surrounded by a coral reef which approaches so near to the island in most parts, that a boat cannot well be navigated in the water between, except at one settlement where there is a lagoon. Even then, how- ever, too many large blocks of coral rise up here and there over it, to make boating safe. Around the beach of the island is a rough road nineteen and a-quarter miles in length, by which communication is carried on between the villages. This beautiful island was in a most distressful con- dition when Mr. Chalmers arrived. In March, 1866, and again in March, 1867, terrible hurricanes had swept over the land, destroying houses, trees, and plantations, the fruit of years of patient toil. It was never known that two hurricanes should come within twelve months. The previous one had occurred in 1846, twenty years before. The houses of the students of the Institution and those of the native pastors in the villages were 26 LTFE AND WOIIK IN RAROTONGA. 27 either blown down or in a most deplorable condition ; the school-room at Avarua (Mr. Chalmers' village) was in ruins. Nearly the whole of that season's crop of food was spoiled. Truly their state was pitiable. The difficulties of the situation were increased by the fact that everything necessary for repairing the damage was lost in th.Q John Williams. Comparatively speak- ing, the missionary and his wife were no better off than their people. Two outfits and two supplies of goods had been spoiled and lost in the ill-fated ship. The Mission House and chapel had escaped damage, and for two months Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers dwelt happily with the family of the Rev. E. R. W. Krause, who was about to retire from active service, and arrangements were made by Mr. Chalmers to purchase the furniture. The house was very pretty as well as large and comfortable. They chiefly felt the loss of all their books, which their lonely position made more keen. For more than six months no letters arrived. In spite of these drawbacks, they were very happy. Mrs. Chalmers wrote, " Oh, how glad we feel to be at last in our home and at our work, the weariness, tedious delays, and accidents of the journey are all as a dream of the past in the home bliss." They could not help comparing the beauty of Rarotonga with the wild scenery of their beloved Highlands of Scotland. In that coral island^ every- thing grows so fast that it looks like a vast over-grown mass of vegetable matter. The eye is satiated with such wild fertility. There are no native flowers — those around the Mission premises having been imported ; but the island is rich in various species of ferns. Tew native birds are to be seen, and they are poor in song. There are some lovely valleys, but no water. They seem to need the rivers, lochs, 28 JAMES CHALMERS. and burns, with the pretty farmsteads, cattle, and patches of cleared land, to make up what to British eyes are the essential elements of a beautiful country. Mrs. Chalmers thought that the reason tourists were so moved by the beauty of these South Sea isles was that they were so long journeying there, with only the ocean and sky to look at, and when the isles rise suddenly out of the ocean, their bold outlines and gorgeous vegetation powerfully strike the imagination, long before it is possible to go ashore and make a closer inspection of the details of the beautiful scene. There were five villages or settlements upon Rarotonga when Mr. Chalmers went, each with a church arid native pastor. The missionary preached at each place in turn ; leaving home on Sunday morning on horseback and returning at night. When at the nearer settlements he returned home to conduct an afternoon service at Avarua. The chief charge lay in the Institution, for training native teachers and educating the men of influence and position in the various islands. Until the incoming of Mr. Chalmers the students had been fed and clothed at the expense of the London Missionary Society. Th-e Directors .felt that as a similar institution at Samoa was self-sup- porting from its commencement, it was right that efforts should be made to put the one at Rarotonga upon the same footing. With this Mr. Chalmers heart- ily agreed, and told the students that he would only buy food for six months, and, in the meantime, land must be cleared and planted. The late chief had some few years previously presented Mr. Krause with eighty acres of uncleared land, but he felt it unwise to accept such a gift, and told the chief so. He, however, said that it might at some time prove in in o •z M M > < > C > JO O H O 2; O > 29 30 JAMES CHALMERS. beneficial to the mission, so the chief transferred it as a gift to the Society. Mr. Krause meant to have the land cleared for the students, but his health failed so rapidly that he gave up the project. So the work of clearance was begun, some members of two of the churches helping with the first three- or four acres. The students broke up the remainder, piece by piece. Natives do not like working for . nothing, so during the progress of the land clearing, their efforts were stimulated by a number of feasts. Some were provided by the Society, but Mr. Chalmers added, from his own stock, four oxen and a number of pigs for that purpose. They had no classes on Wednesdays. That day was devoted to the land, while during the spring months they went three times weekly, Mr. Chalmers always going with them to see that the work was well done, and helping now and then -to encourage them. In addition to this Institu- tion land, each "student had a private garden near the mission premises, at which he worked for an hour daily. Such was the productiveness of this land that it required no further attention. The men studied in classes with Mr. Chalmers from eight to ten in the morning, and their wives during the same time were taught by Mrs. Chalmers in a large room at the Mission House. Previously they had been taught in a class with their husbands. The plan for self-support succeeded so far as food was concerned. The other alterations made were duly appreciated, and speedily both the Institution and mission generally were in a most prosperous condition. Mr. Chalmers had other classes in connection with the church at his station, such as an inquirers' class, and Bible class. He also visited the other settle- LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. 3 1 ments during, the week, but there his efforts were directed towards making the pastors, deacons, and class leaders do their own work thoroughly, and to cultivate a spirit of self-reliance, rather than one of dependence upon the missionary for doing the work if they failed. There was a quarterly meeting of the teachers for prayer and inquiry into the state of the work of God. Even at that early date, he strove to impress upon them that the time was coming when the Society would have to withdraw its missionaries for service in heathen lands, and that they should use every effort to qualify themselves for governing the Church in their midst, and of sending some of their number with the European missionaries as pioneers of the Gospel elsewhere. There were two stations at which Mr. and Mrs.. Chalmers often stayed for a few days. At Ngatangiia two rooms were fitted up for them, and at Oroiangi the Society had a house and furniture in charge of the teacher Isaiah. They enjoyed these changes of scene and the extended opportunities for work thus afforded. The people were not so far advanced in civilisation, and in mature Christian life, as the young missionaries inferred from the books they had read, and the speeches they had heard respecting the early success of these missions. They felt the truth of the sugges-' tion in the lines of George Eliot — " Maybe 'tis wiser not to fix a lens Too scrutinising on the glorious times." . There were several stone cottages, mostly unoccu- pied. They had been built to please Mr. Buzacott, and then "left, as the people preferred their reed 32 JAMES CHALMERS. houses, which were also much more suitable to the climate, as the air passed freely through them, yet without draft, and the women understood better how to keep them tidy. But the stone houses, with their closed windows and the dirty plastered walls, appeared out of place in that land, and the people looked far better in their native dwellings. The chief top had a fine stone house of five rooms, but dwelt in a reed cottage. Some possessed a bedstead and one or two chairs, perhaps a sofa. Others a few plates and small basins, . a spoon, and two or three knives and forks, but those things were, treated as some people use their, drawing-room furniture and ornaments. They clung to their old habits, and used leaves for plates, cocoa- nut shells for cups, and their fingers for conveying all food to the mouth. Common butcher's knives and sometimes large bladed pocket-knives were used for dividing the food. In the Institution' the arrangements were suited to the habits of the people. At its commencement they tried to get the students to take it in turn by couples to cook for all, but it was abandoned after a short trial. The grandees of the land felt insulted when it became their turn to cook for the commonality. Now each * cooks for himself, or joins two or three others, in so far as the supply and cooking went. When the food was ready each took his portion home t© his family. It is a matter of indifference to a native whether he eats his food hot or cold. They do not sit down together to a meal, but like to eat a little frequently, each as his appetite dictates. The people had not received any supply of clothing for some years, in consequence of the loss of the first and second Jolm Williams^ but in 1 869 the third ship LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. •' 33 of that name arrived with a quantity on board, and on gala days, and at meetings in the church, on their visits to the mission house, or when they expected a call from the missionary or his wife, they were well dressed. But in their homes, or when engaged about some work alone, their attire was of the oddest kind, and approached in various degrees their ancient state of nakedness. When the missionaries approached the native houses they took care to move slowly along to give the people time to prepare for their coming. There were always some children about to give notice of the visitors' approach. The children preferred nature's garb when at play. Up to that time they had only adopted European clothing upon public occasions to please the missionaries, and returned with greater avidity to their old dirty habits when the foreign eyes and influence were removed. Sometimes their desire to be like " tangata papaa " — white man — would lead them to put on a pair of boots. Their efforts to walk in them were most droll. They would catch hold of a chair or something to give themselves a start, and then roll about like a child tottering in its first efforts to walk. Of course the boots hurt their feet, and often they would go with only one shoe on. A native youth said, when questioned about a pair of shoes he had bought — pointing to the one he had on, " You see by-and-by he get bad — all break — me one goot one in my box — me put him on my other foot ! " Mrs. Chalmers succeeded in persuading some native women to leave off the old heathen practices in reference to the rearing of infants. They were surprised to see that the children grew better and healthier under the new methods. C 34 JAMES CHALMERS. There was a good code of printed laws, but they were not carried out. The chiefs declared they were above the law, and the people endeavoured to follow their example. Their ideas of justice were most peculiar. Take one or two instances. In 1868, a man who had killed another in a drunken spree, was sentenced to only seven years imprisonment. In May, 1869, a man, under the influence of orange beer, attacked his wife with an axe, declaring he would kill her, and dealt several blows before others came to her help. She was much injured. A few days afterwards, a lad went to his plantation followed by a dog. . A pig rushed at the dog and bit its leg, and in return the dog bit the pig's ear. The two cases were tried, and the lad received the same punishment for the doings of his dog, as the man who tried to kill his wife. The missionaries were at a loss to know what the lad was charged with. Neither the pig nor dog were much hurt, but the judges did not like the lad, so he was punished. This is a fair specimen of the native notions of law and justice. The religious state was that usually seen among a people recently emerged from heathenism. They still cleaved to old sins and customs, and will continue to do so for some generations to come. Their spiritual life approached near to that which we are accustomed to see in children, with remnants of heathenism added. The best Church members were found among the old men, who had been acquainted with heathenism in all its disgusting de- tails. They '* remembered the rock from whence they were hewn." The rising generation knew nothing of that, and could not so well appreciate the blessings of Christianity. There was living then on Rarotonga good old LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. 35 Maretu, the finest specimen of a Christian and the best native teacher Rarotonga has yet produced. He had been a warrior, and was one of the first fruits of the Rev. C. Pitman's labours soon after his arrival in 1827, and after being trained by that missionary, laboured with much success in various islands. He returned to Rarotonga in 1854, and took charge of the principal station. Apart from his position as a teacher he was a very influential man. When he spoke in matters of government all were silent, and none of the chiefs dared oppose. Yet to all appearance he was simply a happy old man who loved children and collected all sorts about him. Mrs. Chalmers was a great favourite with Maretu, and used to tease him by saying that he was too old to have the children about, and only spoiled them. He would laugh, and scratch his head in a way peculiar to himself, a token of pleasure or trouble, as the case might be, and say, " Oh ! Mrs. Chalmers, don't think that I am an old man. Maretu vaine (his wife) is old, but I am young." And the old man indeed felt young. His wife had been with him in all his travels and labours, a true helpmate, but although not older than he, was much more frail. Another notable Christian was Tapairu-ariki. She, with a number of native women, was stolen from Rarotonga by Captain Goodenough, who discovered the island, and left at Aitutaki. The Rev. J. Williams noticed this fair young woman when he visited that island, and she was taken on by him to her native land. Captain Goodenough, afraid that his atrocious conduct might be revealed, had not announced his discovery of the island, so Mr. Williams spent many days in quest of it. About half-an-hour before the time which he had set for giving up the 36 JAMES CHALMERS. search, the crests of lofty mountains revealed its position, and Tapairu-ariki went on shore with the teachers to introduce them to her cousin Makea, the principal chief. She was ever the friend and helper of the teachers, and her rank made her word powerful. Being a woman of great energy and spotless character, she did much good, and was called '' the Mother of the TAPAIRU-ARIKI. Word of God." She died in February, i88i, about the age of eighty-five, having lived to see her descendants of the fifth generation. Her teeth at that age were perfect. The backs of her hands were beautifully tattooed, so that strangers thought she wore mittens. In early life she had eaten human flesh, and her history was truly a strange one, when the darkness and cruelty of its dawn is contrasted with the light . LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. 37 and peace of its close. She was longing to depart and be with Christ, when the Rev. W. Wyatt Gill said he hoped her grey-headed sons from Aitutaki, would be able to see her again. She replied quietly, *' It is well with them, for they are serving Christ. Do not detain . me by your prayers and kind wishes. Let me go quickly to the Saviour I have loved so long." When Mr. Chalmers landed he saw old men and women, children, and plenty of young women. He inquired, "Where are the young men?" "Oh," replied the old missionary, " there are none, they have gone away." The young missionary was of a very energetic temperament, and took long rambles up this hill, down that valley, and through others. As the island is covered with thick vegetation and bush it is difficult to find your way about. A few native paths exist, wide enough for one person to walk in. In his walks Mr. Chalmers came upon many young men who never went near the villages, but stayed in the bush. He talked kindly ; made them feel he was their sincere friend, and that he took a great interest in them. They were charmed with the frank brotherliness of the new missionary, and welcomed his visits. Their chief amusement was the manufacture and consumption of intoxicating drinks. They preferred foreign rum when it could be obtained, but failing that, they made drinks from oranges, bananas, pine-apples, and other fruits. This caused the missionary great anxiety, as he saw in it the speedy ruin of the people, and he deter- mined to extend his researches. By leaving the paths, and forcing his way through the bush, he found in secluded parts, very difficult of access, fine spaces cleared of bush and plants, and shaded by trees. They had taken care that no paths should be 38 JAMES CHALMERS. made near these groves which were held sacred to the god Bacchus. The rascals in a spirit of fun com- menced their revels by singing hymns and prayer. When drunk they would throw off their scanty clothing and fight like savages. None of the judges or policemen dared go near. The missionary, how- ever, was determined to do his duty, so at night he would wander about in search of these meetings, and pushing through the dense bush come upon them suddenly. Then would be seen fifty or sixty nearly naked fellows, engaged in a drunken orgie, around five or six barrels of orange rum. Often he arrived at the end of the revel, just in time to save the lives of some who were being smothered by their fighting comrades, and were too drunk to help themselves. None ever insulted or showed fight to their missionary. Some- times he arrived as they were proceeding with the opening service, when he would walk up to the casks and pull out the corks, or more frequently inflict on the revellers the humiliation of making them pour all the liquor upon the ground. He would speak faith- fully to them of their ways, and of Divine love and mercy, and then see all safely on their way home. Although many of these wastethrifts were lords of the soil, and most had land to work upon, they never attended to it or laboured in any way. With a girdle of leaves, old cloth, or at best a dirty old shirt and trousers, hair long and uncombed, these devotees of drink would wander about. As the result of Mr. Chalmers' earnest conversations, one and then an- other would give up their evil ways and return to the settlements, attend church, and lead a better life. Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers tried in every way to stem the drinking habits. Even little children used to LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. 39 meet in the bush, prepare intoxicating Hquor from the delicious fruits, and drink it. A Rechabite Society was started by Mr. Chalmers, and large temperance meetings were held regularly. He stirred up the chiefs, and they enforced the laws. After some years of persistent efforts they had con- siderable success. The lack of employment or amusement for the natives, especially the young men, was a cause of regret, and the- missionary and his wife often wished they had some public games to interest them in leisure hours. They had plenty in heathen times, but the native teachers who first came to the island did away with them all. They did not see any dis- tinction between that which was innocent and the obscenity which often accompanied these amusements. Some of the natives went to Tahiti during Mr. Chalmers' residence, and saw the natives go through exercises in the form of a drill. When they returned they introduced it among the people, while Mr. Chalmers was away for a fortnight superintending the mission work at another part of the island. Upon his return, he called the young men to perform in front of the Mission House. While there was much childish nonsense in parts, he saw nothing to con- demn, and encouraged them to continue, as he perceived that it brought all the wild fellows into the settlement, where they could be more readily influ- enced, and very little drink obtained. Good clothing was required for the drill, and large orders were given to the traders. Meanwhile the young men set to work to get money, and all were able to pay for their goods when they arrived. Mr. Chalmers called upon the volunteers to go through their per- formance again before the Mission House. When 40 JAMES CHALMERS. they were done he said, " If you meet for drill you should also come to church," and presented a Bible to each with his name written in it. They came to service willingly, and he soon arrested attention by special addresses to them as a Volunteer Corps. Bible and other classes were formed from this band of young men, which the missionary took charge of gladly. Many were converted, and became Church members, while others became respectable men, sober, and regular worshippers. Did he use guile to catch them ? If so it was of FIRST STONE CHURCH, RAROTONGA. a very simple and artless kind. Yet some have found fault with his telling them they must attend church. Surely every Christian will rejoice that by such means God's work was helped forward. The education given in the village schools was of a very elementary kind. The children had two school feasts, in December or January and in May. The annual feasts of the people were also in May, when the missionary meetings were held, and contributions varying from ^200 to ;^25o, given in aid of the London Missionary Society. Their attention was LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. 4 1 continually being directed and their sympathies drawn out towards those islands where the Word of God was unknown, and the students were eager to go to these dark places. In 1872, five students and their wives sailed in the JoJui Williams for New Guinea, and after them other parties were regularly sent to fill up vacancies, caused by ill-health and deaths, and to enter upon new stations. The spiritual state of the churches was changeful, and often caused the missionary and his wife much anxiety. In 1870 there was a very refreshing out- pouring of the Holy Spirit, and a revival of religion took place in many hearts. Numbers of careless and wicked ones were converted, and many who had been expelled from the chu^rches for gross sins were brought to repentance and renewed in their faith. A few of the converted ones yielded again to tempta- tion, but the great majority held firmly on, and gave an impetus to the life of the Church. Mr. Chalmers had to accompany the y<9//;2 Williams to visit the out-stations on various islands, and upon his wife devolved the task of superintending the work. It was a very anxious time, for in addition to the cares of the Institution, over fifty inquirers came to the Mission House at all hours of the day and night, seeking relief in their spiritual distress. She was very glad indeed at the end of. six weeks to shift part of the burden to the proper shoulders. These out-stations were visited annually by the missionaries of the group in turn. The people on the islands of Maniiki, Rakaanga, Pukapuka, and the Penrhyn Islands were very poor, and had only fish and cocoa-nuts to subsist upon. The islands of Aitu, Mauke, and Mitcaro are more fertile. Upon the poorer places Mr. Chalmers distributed much of the 42 JAMES CHALMERS. clothing and other things sent in cases by kind friends at Leeds, Hull, Greenock, and Sydney. The re- mainder was used as presents to the teachers of the other places ; also little remembrances were made to the aged teachers and their wives, who, retired from active service, were passing their declining years at Rarotonga. The schools also came in for a share of these good things, and the women's classes had happy times in making the prints and other stuffs up into dresses. Mrs. Chalmers found it best to let them use their ingenuity in cutting out and making up the dresses. She thought the tight dresses sent from Europe unsuited to the climate, and encouraged the women to continue making loose flowing robes. They added little improvements in the design of the regulation yoke pattern, and also imitated the ideas imported from Tahiti. The school materials and stationery sent were very useful in the schools and Institution. The full story of their struggle to make the Institution self-support- ing cannot be told, but they passed through many straits, and often had the missionary, out of the stipend which barely sufficed for his own wants, to devote a portion towards the pressing needs of those under him. Mrs. Chalmers left Rarotonga, on a visit to her family at Dunedin, New Zealand, in October, 1875. She had previously suffered bereavement in the deaths of her brother, Mr. Watson Hercus, and her only sister, Mrs. Black. It was a season of much happy intercourse ; and she returned with greatly improved health in May, 1876. During that year a fine new class-room was added to the Institution. The number of the teachers in training was thirty-six, and twelve were waiting at LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. 43 Aitutaki until houses could be made for their accom- modation. Some years before, a boy's boarding-school was formed to give a more advanced education to those who had been instructed in the village schools, and it had prospered so that in 1876 fifty-nine boys were being taught, and more were awaiting admission. Forty-nine boys lived on the Mission premises, so that the missionary and his wife, active though they were, had hard work to keep pace with the work. In June, 1876, Mr. Chalmers left, with Rev. G. A. Harris, for an extended deputation tour, and visited all the islands in the Hervey Islands Mission ; and in September he visited some of the out-stations, also Huahine and Tahiti. It may be interesting to give an account of the daily routine at the Mission. Mr. Chalmers attended the morning prayer-meeting in the church at day- break,— i.e.^ from half-past five to six o'clock. Then breakfast between half-past six and seven, according to season. Immediately after, prayers were said in English, and then medicine was dispensed until eight o'clock. From eight to ten Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers had students and their wives in classes. Then Mrs. Chalmers was busy with household matters, and the missionary with his students, teaching them to build houses and make furniture, or in his study, until twelve, when dinner was served. After that a rest or little recreation until two, when they bathed and put on clean clothes. Mr. Chalmers went to superintend the printing-office until four o'clock tea. Then they went out to visit the sick, look up Church members and others, also to inspect the students' homes, and see to any out-door matters. At six the lamps were lighted 44 JAMES CHALMERS. and there were prayers with servants in Rarotongan, after which prayer in English, then they would go to the study and prepare for further work until nine o'clock. By ten all had retired to rest. They felt their isolation very much at first. For two years they only saw one white Christian, and great was their joy when the John Williams arrived. They were, however, too busy to be weary. As time went on the number of classes increased, and their time both before and after dinner was still more filled up with tuition. The boys' school was an additional care. So time never hung upon their hands, although the monotony of the early spring months, when no vessels visited the land, and there were no crops or fruits, was very depressing. In 1873, a newspaper was started by Mr. Chalmers, but it was given up after a brief existence. He had to write everything for it, and his wife to correct for the press. There were many eager readers, and it did some good, but it was too heavy an undertaking with- out helpers, so it was reluctantly discontinued. Mr. Chalmers' ministry in Rarotonga was marked throughout by the great earnestness with which he laboured for the salvation of the people, and also to raise the believers to a higher spiritual level. Holiness of heart and uprightness of public and private life were his constant themes, and "waiting upon God " enforced as the way out of all difficulties, as well as the source of light and comfort. For a long time their attention had been called to New Guinea, and as far back as 1869, Mr. Chalmers had offered to do pioneer work there. Dr. Mullens wrote asking him to go in 1872. The other mission- aries, however, wished them to continue their very important wgrk in the Hervey Islands. LIFE AND WORK IN RAROTONGA. 45 The people were greatly distressed at the thought of losing their beloved missionary and his active wife, but when the repeated request of the Directors came, Mr. Chalmers could no longer delay. Their hearts were full at the thought of leaving the people they had worked for and prayed for so long. But a more urgent call had come. The great lone land lying in darkness needed missionaries, so in May, ^^77 i just ten years after their arrival, they left Rarotonga, via New Zealand and Sydney, for New Guinea. In both colonies they had an enthusiastic welcome. Mr. Chalmers preached three or four times every Sunday, and addressed large audiences of Sunday- school teachers and children. Much sympathy and help for the new mission was the outcome of all this labour, and with light hearts they left Sydney for Somerset, Cape York. . PAN DAN us FRUIT. GOURD, BOTTLE, AND SPOON. CHAPTER III. NEW GUINEA— FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH • OF THE MISSION. HE advent of an. earnest and experi- enced missionary like Mr. Chalmers to the New Guinea Mission was a matter of deep interest to all con- cerned in the opening up of that wonderful country. One better equipped and more suitable for the work could not have been found. The eastern part of the mission, with stations in various parts of the south- east peninsula, was under the care of the W. G. Lawes. The islands in Torres Straits, stations in the western part of the Papuan were under the care of the Rev. S. Macfar- Fifteen Polynesian teachers assisted these gentlemen, and ten more accompanied Mr. Mac- farlane and Mr. Chalmers on their journey east- ward to found the long-projected mission at the extremity of the peninsula. Ever since the com- mencement of the Society's Mission, the Directors had ■46 STONE CLUB. Rev. and Gulf lane. NEW GUINEA. ' 47 been desirous of extension In this direction. The testimony of Captain Moresby of the numerous villages In healthy positions, and the considerable population to be found there, Indicated its suitability for the residence of an English missionary with a good staff of native teachers. Two years before Mr. Chalmers' arrival, the Revs. S. Macfarlane and W. G. Lawes made a preliminary cruise as far as South Cape, and were well received by the people. The way was thus to some extent prepared. The headquarters of the New Guinea Mission was then at Somerset, In Queensland, but soon after it was removed to Murray Island. Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers arrived at Somerset on 30th September, 1877, where they were met by the mission schooner BertJia, with Mr. Macfarlane on board. It was Sunday, and the captain of their steamer Invited them to remain on board until she was about to sail. But the bustle and confusion caused by a number of pearl shelling boats made it anything but a day of peace, and rest. These vessels had been awaiting the arrival of the steamer, and their masters were soon on board receiving their goods. The mission party left In the Bertha at five o'clock on the Tuesday morning. On Sunday the 21st, they anchored on the coast, about five miles from Boera, then the most westerly station in New Guinea proper, and soon after a canoe with Rev. W. G. Lawes and the teacher, PIrl, came alongside. Mr. Lawes, although showing that he had suffered from the climate, appeared better than Mr. Chalmers had anticipated, while PIri, who Is a very strong, hearty fellow, seemed to be very little the worse for his residence in such a malarious atmo- sphere. 48 JAMES CHALMERS. They arrived at the 'famous harbour, Port Moresby, and Mr. Chalmers says he was not charmed with its burnt-up and barren appearance. It is surrounded by high hills, and swamps abound in the ravines l3etween them and wherever a piece of low-lying land is found. A mangrove swamp lies close to the village of Hanua- bada, and near the Mission House is a large place which is full of water in wet weather. As a matter of course, fever abounds. The next day Mr. Chalmers landed and went to the school, where about forty children were learning to read. In the afternoon they saw many women in the village making pottery, in prepara- tion for the men's annual visit to the Gulf of New Guinea, where it would be ex- changed for sago. As they had a few days to wait, Mr. Macfarlane and Mr. Chalmers took a trip inland. The latter was anxious to see if anything could be done for the natives living on the mountains. They returned to Port Moresby about midday on Saturday, very tired and footsore. Mr. Chalmers groaning, " Oh, that shoemakers had only to]^wear the boots they send to missionaries." ■ The following day being the first Sunday Mr. Chalmers passed on the mainland of New Guinea, he has given a record of the doings at Port Moresby. BURNING POTTERY AT HANUABADA (port MORESBY). NEW GUINEA. 49 A great many of the inhabitants went out early in the morning with spears, nets, and dogs, to hunt wallabies (kangaroos), and were accompanied by some inland strangers from villages near the Astrolabe Range. • There was not much observance of the Sabbath, but a friendly chief, named Poi, detained NATIVE OF PORT MORESBY. some inland friends from hunting, and brought them to the services. Mr. Lawes preached at both morn- ing and afternoon services to good congregations. The hunters returned from a successful hunt just before the afternoon worship. A canoe from Hula U 50 JAMES CHALMERS. arrived, and her cargo of old cocoa-nuts was soon . bartered for pottery. An old sorceress died in the evening, and great wailing took place over her remains, which were buried the following morning opposite her house. The grave was two feet deep, and the corpse was placed on mats while her husband for a time lay in the grave upon the body talking to the departed spirit. Then he lay down by the grave-side covered with a mat. At midday the grave was filled in, and friends sat over it weeping. The relatives had their bodies blackened and besmeared with ashes as a sign of mourning. On the 3 1st of October the Bertha left for Kerepunu, but Mr. Chalmers remained to accompany Mr. Lawes in the Mission schooner Mayri, being anxious to visit the intervening stations. They left the following day, and sailed inside the reef to Tupuselei. As they went eastward, both the country and the people improved, and at Hula they were surprised at the beautiful country and interesting people. The next day they reached Kerepunu, the most magnificent place at. present known in New Guinea, with very superior looking inhabitants. It is a large town of seven districts, with well arranged streets of fine houses ; crotons and other flowering plants are placed in all directions, and cockatoos are to be seen in front of nearly every house. The population is divided into fishermen and planters. All are workers, except those who may be sick, and strictly adhere to the rule of working two days and resting the third. This is very sensible when we remember that theirs is a tropical climate. The Bertha had arrived here four days before, and on the Sunday Mrs, Chalmers attended the morning NEW GUINEA. 5 I service, when the teacher, Anederea, preached to a large congregation from the platform of a house. Mr. Lawes remained to revise for the press a small book prepared by Anederea. The Bertha proceeded to Teste Island, which they reached in eight days, and Mr. Chalmers examined the place with a view to making it the headquarters of the Eastern Mission, but decided against it. They found a suitable location for a teacher between Killerton Island and South Cape, and hired a house until one could be built. The natives helped to carry the teacher's goods to the house, and . one, who kept near them all day, considered himself to be very well dressed, having a pair o{ trousers, minus a leg, fastened by the waist around his head, while the remaining leg dangled down his back. A short service was held ashore on Sunday, and about six hundred natives attended. Mr. Macfarlane preached. The people were greatly amused with the singing. A ring of armed and painted warriors stood around the crowd. • Early the following morning the Mayri left, and after some beating about met the Bertha in the Fortescue Straits, but the EUaiigozvan was nowhere to be seen. They anchored near South-West Point of the Island of Suau (or Stacey Island). Just as Mr. Chalmers was about to go ashore, three large war canoes with conch shells blowing, appeared from the mainland, and paddled across the Mayri Straits. Soon a large war canoe approached the vessel. The islanders wished to keep all the barter to themselves, and ordered off all the canoes which came from the mainland, and, at their departure raised a shout of triumph, after which they quietly went on with their bartering. They had been fighting with the people of 52 JAMES CHALMERS. Tepauri, and the islanders seemed to have had the best of it, as they told with great exultation that they had lately killed and eaten ten of their enemies. The excitement was very great, and the natives were much astonished at all they saw in the Beritani (British) canoes. The teacher Pi's baby Josepha, a plump little fellow seven months old, was an object of great interest. It seemed a white child beside this very black race. Not being satisfied with the position as a site for a station, the missionaries sailed along- the coast, and, rounding a headland, came to a pretty island village on a well-wooded point. It was a convenient locality, being only a gunshot from the mainland, with good anchorage. The natives were friendly, and led Mr. Chalmers to see the fresh water, of which there was a good supply. He was overjoyed, and wrote, " This is just the spot we have been in search of We can go anywhere from here, and are surrounded with villages. God has led us." They arranged for the teachers to have half of the largest house in the place. The partition was only two feet high, and the rooms were ornamented with skulls, shells, cocoa-nuts, and a choice collection of human bones. The skulls were those of enemies they had killed and eaten. Mr. Chalmers selected a large sand-hill on the point as the site for his house. It had bread-fruit and other fruit trees upon it, and plenty of space which he hoped soon to get cleared and planted with ground crops for the benefit of the teachers. The land behind the house plot was well wooded. The missionaries went ashore after breakfast, and found the teachers had been kindly treated. Then the natives were sent with axes to cut wood for the house, FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. 53 and two of the large posts were up before night. As the time for which the Bertha was chartered had expired, and the season for trade winds was closing, they had to use all efforts to build the house. Mr. Macfarlane, the senior missionary, worked well. Part of the crews of the Bertha and the Mayri joined the four teachers, and in five days the framework was almost completed. The missionaries now occupied the teachers' house, whilst the latter lived in a tent made out of an old sail. On Sunday they had services in Rarotongan in addition to the daily morning and evening worship. The people always enjoyed the singing. They had much trouble to procure enough plaited cocoa-nut leaves for the walls and roof of the house. On the 14th of December the walls and roof were finished, and the whole party moved into it. A curtain of unbleached calico hung between the teachers' end and that of the missionaries. Similar curtains did duty for windows and doors, but as the fine weather was breaking, they were anxious to be housed, and were concerned about the teachers sleep- ing in the tent when it rained. The missionaries also were tired of sitting upon the uneven floor of a native house without any privacy day or night. The next morning, when Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers were busy at the new house, they heard some people quarrelling, and saw a crowd with spears and clubs running towards the teachers' house, where one of the Mayri s crew was levelling a gun at a young native who was brandishing a spear. The aim was perfect, and Mr. Chalmers just arrived in time to prevent the gun being fired. Pushing the native aside, he ordered the gun to be put down, and turning to the crowd shouted, " Besi ! besi!" (enough!). Some put down 54 JAMES CHALMERS. their weapons, but others remained threatening. Mr. Chalmers caught the young native, and with some difficulty got his spear from him. Poor fellow, he cried with rage, but did no harm. Mr. Chalmers clapped him, and so induced him to go away. All day he sat under a tree and sulked. He had been accused of stealing a knife, and thinking that he was going to be tied with a line which the teacher had in his hand, he raised an alarm. Many people from the mainland had become very friendly, and one party invited Mr. Chalmers to visit their village, saying if he went in their canoe they VOYAGE OF MR. CHALMLKb liN A CArsOE TO Tllii MAliNLAND. would return with him. He went, and was very kindly received. The Mayri returned on the 2ist of December, and reported that the teachers at East Cape were sick, but the natives were still very kind. Mr. Chalmers resolved to visit the settlement, with which the people of Suau were at feud. They tried very hard to dissuade him, and brought skulls, saying his would be like them, and adorn their enemy's war canoe or hang outside the chief's house. He felt sure it was because they feared the hoop-iron, axes, beads, and cloth would also be given at Tepauri, and upon his persisting they left him to his fate. FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. 55 Mr. Chalmers was accompanied by the teacher whom he hoped to leave there. The people received them kindly, and showed them the place inland where water was obtained. The Suau people were disappointed that no harm had befallen their missionary. He had been unwell for some days, and was worse the day after his return, so they felt comforted, and assured him it was because of his visit to Tepauri. The people were very troublesome, and caused much discomfort by their thieving propensities. Among other things a camp-oven was stolen. The missionaries felt the loss much, and bore patiently these things, having anticipated them. But a greater , trial came from a very unexpected source. On the 29th of December one of the crew of the Mayri warned Mr. Chalmers that the captain was brusque with the natives, and had threatened to cut the head off one of them with a sword. Soon after, as he was paying some men for building a cook-house, a loud noise was heard, and he saw the natives who had been at work in the saw-pit running away, and heard firing in the direction of the vessel. He put his bag in the house and ran to the shore. Some natives were on board the Mayri, and endeav- ouring to get her ashore. Two of the crew on shore, armed with muskets, were trying to get their boat afloat, but the natiyes would not let it go. Had Mr. Chalmers not been near they certainly would have fired. Soon the natives on the JMayri jumped over- board, and the firing became brisker. He rushed along the beach, calling on the natives to take to the bush, and to the people on the vessel to cease firing. Peace was restored, and soon great wailing came from the chief's house. A man had been shot 56 JAMES CHALMERS. through the arm and leg, and another in the left arm and chest. He ran to the Mission House for some medicine, and applied it to both men. The house was surrounded by armed natives, and Mrs. Chalmers was the only calm person there. They kept shouting, " Bocasi, Bocasi," the name of the man whom the captain had threatened in the morning, and Mr. Chalmers learnt at the chief's house that he was on board the vessel. He found a small canoe, covered with blood, and two natives paddled him off. The captain sat on deck looking white, and in reply to the question, " Is there still a man on board ? " said, " Yes." " Is he shot ? " " Yes." " Dead ? " " Yes." He was lying below, and it was risky either to remain long on board or to land with the body ; neither was it advisable for the body to be sent ashore first, as Mr. Chalmers might then be prevented from landing at ' all. So he got into the canoe where one man was sitting, and said to the other, who was getting up the body to place it in the canoe, " Not in this one, but a larger one," They paddled ashore, and he hastened to the house. The captain said that the people attempted to take his life, and this big man, armed with a large sugar knife, came close up before he shot him dead. The captain's foot was dreadfully cut, there was a spear wound in his side, and several other wounds. The chief people continued friendly, but when the body was landed great wailing prevailed, and spears, &c., went up and down frequently. Armed men in canoes came from all parts, and some advised the missionaries to leave during the night, as they would surely be murdered. Mrs. Chalmers was opposed, and said the vessel was too small for such a party, and not provisioned, and to leave here would mean FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. 57 losing their foothold, and imperilling the other teachers settled near. They came there for Christ's work, and He would protect them. This sanctified common-sense prevailed. The vessel left for Murray Island in the evening, after some medicine had been sent for the captain, and a present was prepared for the people. Early next morning the people came and accepted the present. Some of the chiefs assured them that they could go on with their work and no one would injure them. But they deemed it well to be cautious, and not expose themselves for a time unnecessarily. The people gathered from all parts in large war canoes, and were very impudent, jumping over the fence and taking no heed of what was said. The chief of the settlement to which the man Bocasi belonged came and was very friendly, so Mr. Chalmers gave him a present. In the midst of this anxiety he received an invita- tion to attend a cannibal feast at a neighbouring village. Some said two men and a child were the chief attractions on the ineftti, others asserted five adults and a child. The feast was held, and some of their friends appeared with pieces of human flesh hanging from their neck and arms. The child was saved for another occasion, being considered too small. So the year ended amid darkening clouds, the little band exhorting one another in patience to possess their souls, and feeling that God was truly a refuge unto them. In February, 1878, Mr. Chalmers had to go to Cooktown for stores. He did not like to leave his wife, as the attitude of the people had been so unfriendly. She refused to go, saying, " We came here for Christ's sake, and He will protect us." 58 ^ JAMES CHALMERS. She was very ill when he left, but bore up bravely. The Chief, Meau, and others brought her food daily, and she heard an old man, in conversation outside the house, say, "Tamate has showed his confidence in us by leaving his wife in our care, and that he means to return as he said. Let us be kind, giving her plenty of food." They were all pleased that she remained, and very considerately left her alone to do as she pleased." When any brought food they walked quickly away. In spite of her illness she managed to look after the teachers. Some of them had fever and wanted much care. Those who were recovering, yet felt the languidness resulting from it, she found work for, and thus assisted their recovery. Each day she roused them, and with fresh efforts they tried to work again. Many little dainties were sent to tempt their failing appetites, and their medicine had to be given to them as if they were children. The baby, little Josepha, became very feverish and ill, but the teacher's wife who had adopted him, would not use any' of the remedies prescribed. On the 19th of February there was fighting between three villages. Four men were killed, and. a cannibal feast was held the next morning with great rejoicings. Mrs. Chalmers now exerted herself to set the teachers portions of the gospels to translate, and by way of stimulus and rivalry gave the women a hymn to translate for the services next Sabbath, and when that was done, gave them the third chapter of St. John's Gospel to translate. The husbands looked very black at this invasion of their domain of work, but it roused them up thoroughly, and they taught school and translated with much energy after that. On the 25th, she was too ill to rise, but heard that FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. 59 another teacher was down with fever and had been bad all night. She made an effort and went to see him. After giving him medicine she sent over, every two hours, nourishing food, such as sago, beef-tea, arrowroot, &c., and between them, suitable drinks. He seemed a little better the next day. The weather had been very depressing, dull, sultry days, with much thunder, for three weeks, but without any rain ; on the 26th of February heavy rain fell, and the improved atmosphere seemed to help the invalids. NATIVE HOUSE. The sick teacher was able to dress and sit for a little time in front of the Mission House. A native house was carried past, complete, to be placed on another site. The affair had quite a Yankee-like appearance. On the 2nd of March, the same teacher .was taken ill again in the night. Mrs. Chalmers believed he would have died had she not been called. Some of his com- rades and their wives were dressing him in white shirt and trousers, and others sat by him in the middle 6o JAMES CHALMERS. of the floor crying. She soon set them, to work, kicked away the white clothes and made them get flannel ones, and lift him on to his mats and pillows ; then put three blankets over him which were lying near, and sent for her heavy counterpane. Then some sweating medicine was given, as he had a deathly chill, but he did not get warm. She applied hot water to his feet and gave him hot brandy. That had the desired effect, and after remaining until he perspired and felt sleepy, she sent all the rest to bed except his wife. All now anxiously looked for Mr. Chalmers' return, and a close watch was kept for the vessel. The teachers all improved but little baby Josepha grew worse. On the night of the 7th of March a vessel was sighted. No one had a thought of it being other than the Ellangowaii^ and every preparation was made, dry clothes ready, and expectation at the highest, when it was found to be Mr. Goldie's little yacht. The nights were now very stormy. On March the 13th little Josepha went to Jesus at 1 1 P.M. The poor boy suffered much for several days before he died. The following morning he was buried. The Ellangoivan arrived just in time for Mr. Chalmers to conduct the service. New life and energy seemed to be infused into the fever-worn band. All improved under his cheery care, and the Mission work was pushed on with greater zeal. One day, soon after this, Mr. Chalmers was absent on the mainland. A great noise was heard from the village and those at the Mission House learnt that a fight was going on. Away ran Mrs. Chalmers down FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. 6l the hill and along the village street into the midst of the combatants. Seizing the chiefs' spears she made them lower those weapons. Then turning to the people, she begged and entreated them to desist. Savages can appreciate courage as keenly as any one. Every spear dropped. But she would not leave them. MRS. CHALMERS STOPPING THE FIGHT AT SUAU. The entreaties were renewed that peace should be made ; and out of respect to this fearless woman those grim cannibals sat down and there and then made peace. In April, 1878, Mr. Chalmers began that series of journeys in New Guinea which has added so much 62 JAMES CHALMERS. to our knowledge of the country. The object of these has been to find what places are healthy, and where suitable groups of villages offered positions for native teachers. He has also made friends, and, by kindness and small presents, opened the way for future intercourse. This has been very dangerous and difficult work, requiring much tact, self-possession and fertility of resource. By the helping hand of God he has been enabled successfully to carry out these objects, and now there is a chain of stations along the \vhole south coast of the peninsula, and many more inland at places easily accessible from the sea-shore. He was accompanied in his first coast journey by Mrs. Chalmers. They went in the Mission steamer, Ellangoivan, and visited one hundred and five villages, the inhabitants of ninety seeing a white man for the first time. From the commencement of these journeys he has always travelled unarmed, trusting in God for protection. They visited the villages in Farm Bay. The people, on their leaving, could not understand how the steamer was able to move without sails, and one canoe, whose occupants would not leave the vessel's side, was pulled under the water. Both canoe and people reappeared some distance astern, to the great merriment of their friends, and none the worse for their ducking. At Meikle Bay, Mr. Chalmers walked inland with the chief and people. The mate of the steamer shot a parrot, upon which the whole party, with great shouting and hands to their ears, ran several miles to their homes. They found behind the hills, as Mr. Chalmers expected, a large sheet of water called Poroai, or " Piggish w^ater," which was in every way characteristic of its name ; they returned home after dark' along the dry bed of a stream, accompanied only. FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. 63 by the chief. As people there only travel at night when bent on fighting, the natives in the villages they passed were much alarmed, but not more so than the chief. With what nimbleness he ascended the ladder of his house. How his crying wives rejoiced. The natives had brought back a sad tale about the mis- doings of the gun. Now the bird is produced by the chief, who declares Jie was not afraid. But he looked pale for a native, and very readily said, " Good-bye, Tamat^ " (Mr. Chalmers's native name). . In Ellangowan Bay the savages surrounded them, and they had much difficulty in leaving. At Orangerie Bay the Chinese cook pursued a man who had stolen his knife, and nearly involved them in a conflict with over a hundred canoes filled with armed warriors. They were intimidated by the steam whistle. Mr. Chalmers had often heard of a Women's Land inhabited only by Amazons, who were famous farmers, canoeists, and able to hold their own before all comers. After some search they found, at Mailiukolo where he landed, hundreds of women standing under the houses, but no men. As he walked up the beach they gave one great scream, and he halted. Throwing some beads and cloth down, he walked away to the boat. After some attempts, a Jittle girl, with much trepidation, ran on all fours like a cat, very lightly lest her approach should cause the white man to look round, picked up the cloth and beads, and flew back. They were eagerly snatched at and examined. After a few more temptings he was besieged by a noisy crowd, and was glad to escape to the boat. He went back with some more beads, but the old ladies ordered him off, as they were too frightened to come near him, and the young ladies kept all the beads they had '64 JAMES CHALMERS. secured. Long after he left, those old crabbed voices could be heard scolding the younger and more fortunate ladies. They found that the island did not produce food, and the men and boys went to the mainland to their plantations and to fight, being away many weeks, and leaving a guard of only a few men at home. While resting in an inland hut, and tracing their course on a chart, some peculiar drops fell upon it from a parcel overhead. Mr. Chalmers jumped up and discovered that they were grandmother's remains being dried. . The owner was called, and walked away with the parcel. Unfortunately the incident took away their appetite for the dinner which was being prepared. When visiting Aroma they had a very narrow escape. They were ashore, and had to walk several miles before a suitable place could be found for the boat to take them off. They came upon a crowd of armed men and women about two miles from where the boat was to call for them. The people followed, and the teacher, who was with Mr. Chalmers, heard them talking about the best place to kill them. Tamate was in front, walking between two men. He held a hand of each, and so prevented them using their clubs. The people tried to wrest the teacher's gun from him. They endeavoured to trip them up, and jostled them, but on they went. Two men with clubs who walked behind were disarmed by two women who ran away. They prayed in silence with full hearts. A man came rushing up and seized the club of the man •next Mr. Chalmers, and threw it into the sea. Next, an old woman asked the warriors what they meant, and talked so as to distract their thoughts. An old chief now came crying out, " Mine is the peace, what r pi < > H W D W- c pi > > o 65 E 66 . JAMES CHALMERS. have the foreigners done that you want to kill them ? ", They now talked loudly, — there was still time. When near the village, Mr. Chalmers caused a diversion by emptying his satchel, and a friendly native, called Kapumari, with the chiefs, forced a way through the crowd, down which they went into the water. The chiefs called, " Go quick, go quick," and right well they swam. They reached the boat ; but the Chinese sailor was nervous and nearly let her drift ashore. Mr. Chalmers got her sails round, then they pulled her head out to sea with the oars, and away they sailed to Kerepunu, thanking God for their deliver- ance. Mr. Chalmers, a week afterwards, learnt from the friendly chief who held the crowd back that it was the practice of the people of Aroma to kill all strangers. They explored the country behind Kerepunu, and went on to Port Moresby. In May, Mr. Chalmers and- Mr. Macfarlane visited the stations in Torres Straits called Mabuiag Tauan and Saibai. These are islands upon which Mr. Mac- farlane had placed teachers, and from which some candidates were expected for the Training Institution he then contemplated. They were very pleased with the condition of affairs, and several promising youths were found who were eager to study. Mr. Chalmers reported then to the Secretary of the Society in London that his wife was very ill, and .that, unless, she improved, he would send her to Sydney. Mrs. Chalmers' health did not improve. The fever made great ravages in her delicate frame, and early in October Mr. Chalmers took her over to Cooktown, and sent her by steamer to Sydney. He returned to Suau, arriving on the 17th of October, and there was true sorrow among the natives when it was i|!|i|l'«»iri;'?ii!|!;i!li!'.:|j||ii:j|| 67 68 JAMES CHALMERS. found that Mrs. Chalmers was not with him. The teachers and their wives, however, were pleased at a prospect of having her back in January. They were now all well and happy. The Sunday after Mr. Chalmers returned there was a comical scene in church. A boy came in, dressed in a shirt and looking very important. A large .congregation assembled, and, as service was about to commence, one of the big lads of Ugativaro, the Rarotonga teacher, stalked in with a jacket in his hand. Espying the youth in the shirt, he ordered him to undress. The boy got up and was helped by several others out of the stolen shirt, which was handed over to its rightful owner, who immediately proceeded to dress, assisted by quite a large number of the congregation. Mr. Chalmers now paid short visits to places on the mainland. At one place the teacher put him ashore, ill with fever, and got a house for him. By treatment he soon recovered. The natives thought they were highly honoured by the white man running into their village when sick. At another place they could only get a small house with a large fire in it. Eight of them had to sleep in a house no larger than an ordinary bed. It blew hard and rained in torrents, so they were glad when morning came. • . . • Mr. Chalmers felt his wife's absence much. He had several attacks of fever, and for three weeks was poorly. Then it returned at irregular intervals. One evening he records that fish were so plentiful in the straits before the Mission House that Pusa caught five large ones with two throws of his spear. With his failing appetite, the result of fever, Tamate was glad to have fish. FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. . 69 Pi Vaine looked after the house, and was very successful in making bread in English fashion. For some time people had visited Suau from various parts of the mainland, but Mr. Chalmers could not tell where their villages were situated. Some came long distances, and he had promised to visit them. Being also desirous of crossing the 3astern end of New Guinea, he left with a party, on the 13th of August, 1878, and crossed to Varauru in Catamaran Bay. They stayed for the night with the chief Quaiani in Varauru. At two A.M. the old chief awoke Mr. Chalmers to relate a dream. In crossing a river some had been washed away, others fogged on the . mountains, and there was a dreadful thunder-storm. . After telling this he said, " Will you really go ? No, you must not go." " Nonsense ! " said Tamate, " we must go." All natives believe in dreams, and follow implicitly the impressions thus received. Their theory is that during sleep the spirit leaves the body and wanders. It gets information of coming events from friendly spirits, and is thus forewarned how to act. They left soon after five o'clock, and were plentifully supplied, by the kindness of friends- at Brook Street Congregational Church, Sydney, with hoop-iron, red • cloth, fish-hooks, and other things to barter for food. The party consisted of twenty-eight persons, five of whom were women. They travelled through swampy land, then ascended gradually, passing through thick bush, and descended by the side of a fine waterfall. Wading into the stream below, they followed its course : for some distance. They then ascended a spur of Cloudy Mountain to level ground in a very fine valley, and 70 • : JAMES CHALMERS. along another stream until they reached a large river called the Gara. While resting on the banks it rained heavily; damping both their clothes and their spirits. The natives threatened to return, but Mr. Chalmers reassured them, and they pushed on. When the sun shone out brightly they crossed the river and went away cheerfully, the natives shouting with delight. After a time they came to where a woman 'had died. Here the chief took a branch and struck his feet, so that their progress might not be retarded by her spirit. ' Then it began to drizzle, and it was amusing to see the chief leading and talking to the rain, chewing betel-nut, spitting it out, and waving his •hand that the rain might go away. He was angry that it did not do so, and bid Mr. 'Chalmers use his powers. Mr. Chalmers laughed, but his companion, Mr. Chester, shouted, and soon it cleared . up. So all the natives accredited him with great power. After a weary tramp they waited for the stragglers to come up before attempting a steep ascent. In some parts it was dangerous ; but all safely arrived on the top of Unuga, a ridge of Cloudy Mountain, 270D feet high. Here they cooked their first good meal, and hoped to enjoy a rest ; but the chief was afraid of mountain spirits, and insisted on Mr. Chalmers going on with him to the first village. Between, seven and eight in the evening they reached the village of Diodio. Mr. Chalmers was soon asleep ; but Quaiani had an interested and excited audience of all the village, as he related wonderful stories of the dimdims (foreign canoes), and of the great chief Mamoose (Mr. Chester), who was camping on the mountains. Throughout the night he held forth. Once when Mr. Chalmers awoke, he was telling of the large war canoe (H.M.S. Sappho), which came to Suau. He ■ FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. J I described it as a floating island, with a large popula- tion, all men, and immense guns, beyond description in size and number. The district is called Lariva ; with eighteen villages on fine rich land, and amidst splendid groves of cocoa-nut trees. Soon after Mr. Chester and his party came up in the morning, a presentation was made of two pigs and quantities of yams, taro, sugar-cane, and bananas. Coming to the platform in front of the house, a native stepped forward and offered the present, with a short speech to the effect that . they were glad Mr. Chalmers had come. They had heard from their friends, but doubted much of what had been told them, now they had seen the foreigners ' for themselves, and could only wonder. Soon a grand feast was prepared under the catering of Quaiani. Whilst the cooking went on, an admiring crowd surrounded the white men, examining them. They were puzzled by their boots, and discussed whether they were really skin or not. The singing was thoroughly appreciated ; and " Auld Lang Syne," with the joining of hands,, will not soon be forgotten. There was a large congregation at the evening service, which Quaiani explained to them as far as he was able. On the morning of the following day Mr. Chalmers and his party ascended the mountain while the chief and a few men stayed on an island in the river to perform a ceremony for the safety and success of the journey. .They said it was all right, and the chief Bunera, of Vagavaga, would receive them kindly," and have all things prepared for them. Pi, one of the teachers, became ill, and Mr. Chalmers remained behind and gave -him some medicine. An old • sorcerer also tried his hand at healing, by praying 7^ JAMES CHALMERS.' and squirting betel juice to the four cardinal points, and on Pi's stomach, and then breathing on him. . The chief was much troubled about his dream, and was rather disappointed that it did not come to pass, as Pi was better, and the party proceeded cheerily the' next morning. They crossed the mountain and descended to Opepago, a village 2700 feet above the sea, where they feasted on pig, yams, and taro. They were urged to stay for further dainties, but pressed on for Vagavaga. However, the chief and his men were determined to do a. little stroke for themselves, and make peace with Barogofigofi, by the prestige which would accrue to them as the guides and friends of the foreigners. Mr. Chalmers saw they were determined not to reach the sea that night, and that they had made up their minds to sleep at a particular village, but he did not know why. A halt was called on the banks of a stream, and incantations by Quaiani took place. A seed from some tree was beaten soft, and squeezed into the eyes of Quaiani and his son-in-law Berige, who, with their followers, bathed and adorned themselves with leaves and flowers. They approached the village cautiously, ascending a steep hill. All the way the chief plucked leaves, addressing them and throwing them away. The village was entered in silence, and they marched round a number of men sitting, on a circle of stones in the centre, until a man \yhom they found to be chief, sprang up, followed by the others, seized their spears and clubs, and danced round. The party now sat on the stones, while the mimic performance of clubbing and spearing Quaiani went on. Mr. Chester thought it looked serious, and told Mr. Chalmers if they touched the old chief he would shoot. But Tamate only laughed,- knowing the pistols were safely packed in the swags. lilKDS OF PARADISE. 73 74 JAMES CHALMERS. Q'uaiani and his son made presents of tomahawks and hoop iron, which were accepted. An old woman came, threw her arms round him, and they cried • together. Another woman and some men followed, and when done, the old man danced round, and said, " Here are great foreign chiefs come to see you, and here am I and my people ; it is now peace." They were feasted, and mad'e comfortable for the night. The village had a splendid outlook over Milne Bay. In the morning they went on Vagavaga, but, after, being iiitroduced to the chief Bunera, he disappeared, and was seen no more. They were unable to proceed to Orangerie Bay and Farm Bay, because of 'trouble between the tribes ; so the steamer Ellang02va71.cd.TnG to Discovery Bay and took them on to South Cape. It was a m^ost enjoyable trip, though somewhat damp and rough. The mountains which they crossed are quite distinct from the Owen Stanley Range, and Mr. Chalmers named it the Lome Range. Mr. Chalmers now employed part of his time writ- ing Scripture stories, and translating hymns. The weather was very broken. He writes : " We can reach the people sooner by singing the Gospel than by preaching it. The story will be the same, only the method improved." ' • A pig which was tearing round Mr. Chalmers' garden was killed by a teacher. The owner came in • a great rage, the villagers with him, and tore down the fence. Mr. Chalmers paid a good "price, and the pig was given up to him for food. The owner after- wards came and apologised for his anger, and said he did not really mean harm, but was so enraged he could not restrain himself. On the nth of November, 1878, ihe John Williams arrived at Suau with twenty teachers on board from FOUNDING THE EASTERN BRANCH. 75 the islands of Rarotonga, Raiatea, Niue, and the Loyalty Islands. There was also a large quantity of stores. The natives were even then so one in feeling with the Mission that they spoke of the, John- Williams as " our ship." Several steamers were then in port, and Mr. Chalmers thought they were rather frightened at so many foreign dimdims (large war canoes) being there. Mrs. Chalmers, on arriving at Sydney, went to stay with Mrs. Jones of Burwood and received NATIVE HOUSE AT SUAU every loving attention and care. Her constitution was greatly shattered by repeated attacks of fever, and she grew weaker and weaker until at length her enfeebled frame reached the utmost limit of attenua-" tion, and she passed away from utter exhaustion. She would not allow Mr. Chalmers to be sent for knowing that he was engaged in trying and important work, and could not bear the thought of his being called away. When they did send, it was too late. Her mind .to the last was bright and vigorous, and she loved to talk about the prospects of the New y6 . JAMES CHALMERS. Guinea Mission. Full of faith and hope, she died on the 20th of February, 1879. Her last words were, " More light." That desire was speedily realised, and eternal light granted. " • • . ' This exemplary Christian lady had many sincere mourners beyond the circle of her family and friends. The cannibals of south-east New Guinea shed tears in sincere sorrow. Far off Rarotonga, and many a South Sea isle, where faithful labourers whom she had helped to train were labouring, sent back sighs of grief. She " rests from her labours, and her works do . follow " from many places far apart. Mr. Chalmers was on his way to Sydney when his wife died. On the journey there he took up a news- paper and saw a heading, "The death of a noble woman." It was the announcement of Mrs. Chalmers' death, which had happened several weeks previously. To understand the nature of his loss one should know the very touching affection which existed between them. Their union was of the happiest and highest order. Mutually helpful, they laboured together with enthusiasm, knowing well that : " Royal deeds May make long destinies for multitudes." The sorrowing missionary arrived in Sydney on the 24th of March, and after a stay there of two months returned to N6w Guinea. — ^'^s^'Wi^p^^^ A NIGHT ON A ROCK. CHAPTER IV. EXPLORING FOR STATIONS — COAST VISITS. AFTER the death of his wife, Mr. Chalmers made Port Moresby his headquarters. In July, 1879, he had a long tramp inland. In June, 1880, he . • was anxious to commence an inland mission, and determined to devote six weeks to searching the "country behind the Owen Stanley Range for suitable localities. He would also endeavour to traverse the high country on the sides of the range,' and follow the course of the Kemp Welch River into Hood Bay. He had a good party, and all were desirous of per- forming a journey which was at that time unpre- cedented in New Guinea travel. Many shook their heads ; some would-be travellers said it could not be .done. Fortunately they met a party of Sogerians" at Port Moresby, and sent on by them a large portion of their food and supplies for barter, keeping only enough for the western part of the trip, which would take about three weeks' hard walking. n 7^ TAMES CHALMERS. They started after a short service on the 7th ot June, and reached Moumiri, sixteen miles' journey. The next day it rained heavily. On the 9th they could obtain very few carriers, so had to carry their own things and climb the hills under a burning sun. On the 53;-^?^;_,,~ t ^ v.. .»y" TREE HOUSE ON HILL TOP. nth, they met their old friend Oriope at Vakinumu. He was as jolly as ever, and ready to take them to Sogeri. Travelling in a mountainous country with goods to carry is too much' for Europeans. How Chalmers and EXPLORING FOR STATIONS— COAST VISITS. 79 his party envied travellers in Africa, with 200 or 300 bearers. The difficulty of carrying has prevented New Guinea being explored. After leaving Sogeri they travelled towards Moroka, and came upon the sources of the Kemp Welch, then they' turned easterly until they reached Favere. As these two tribes had been at war, the Sogeri chiefs had to touch food before cooking as a sign of friendship and acceptance of hospitality. After staying a day at a large- village called Maiari, where they saw a woman wearing a necklace made of all the bone's of her deceased child, as a mark of affection, they continued their course through a terribly rough country, often wading for hours in streams, and ascending or descending mountain torrents, until late one afternoon they reached lovi. The ascent to it was long and steep, then across .the top of a huge table rock, on which the houses were built surrounded by a high barricade. After some uncertainty and explanations, they were led along the rock and into the village with much shouting. Standing on a clear space in the centre of the village, they could see along the Kemp Welch valley— one of the finest in the pen-insula — down to Kalo, and also learnt that no small distance yet lay between them and Hood • Bay. Some wished to make direct for the coast ; Mr. Chalmers wanted to go behind Quaipo and .Anivra- rupu, and raft it down the Clara River. They agreed to carry out the original route, and went on to Keremu. They camped on the side of a conical hill, and saw a party of armed men below, just as they were starting. Surrounding the cone, these shouted, and one raised a spear. As it was poised, Mr. Chalmers shouted, " Down spear," their eyes met, and the spear was dropped. With some of his 80 JAMES CHALMERS. party he went down the hill, and as he approached- • he ordered theni all to lay aside their weapons, as the guns had been left on the top of the hill. On being told who the party were the assailants became . good friends, and smoked and chewed betel-nut. They wanted to accompany the party, but as Mr. Chalmers felt suspicious, he told them to return, which they did. , A river flowed at the foot of the hill, and here they . made a raft with a platform in the centre. Placing FALLS OF THE LAROGI RIVER. their luggage upon it, they sailed down, but soon struck upon a snag. They went on for a few miles more, when they found it impossible to keep. the raft clear of these obstacles. . After some desperate efforts they got through, and sailed down beautifully, hoping to be in Kalo the same day. Mr. Chalmers was standing aft on a log, enjoying the scenery and after- noon's sun, when lo ! he was under water. On com- ing to the surface he saw the raft a little way down, EXPLORING FOR STATIONS — COAST VISITS. 8 1 dismantled and its occupants still clinging to it. Those who could swim pushed it ashore. Although in a miserable plight, they could not help laughing at the ludicrous mishap. They made large fires, and by midnight were asleep on the river bank rolled in dry blankets. The next day they tramped along a splendid valley and met some Kalo canoes at a village on the left bank. Hiring one, they sailed down the remaining twenty miles, and were soon SHOOTING A WALLAIiY. enjoying the comfort and cleanliness of a teacher's house. This is the longest tramp made yet by a white man in New Guinea. They travelled over '500 miles, and climbed more than 40,000 feet. On the 23rd of November Mr. Chalmers left for Maiva, having promised the chief Oa to visit him before the end of the year. On the way some Maiva men told them that Oa was ill. He was really dead, but F 82 JAMES CHALMERS. they were afraid to say so. The boat's crew were disheartened, and had to be carefully managed. They slept on the beach near Cape Suckling, and in the morning met three Delena canoes with pottery, wait- ing for the inland people from Namoa to come with smoked kangaroo for barter. They all landed, and after luncheon were about to start for Namoa, when Mr. Chalmers said, " I fear it will rain before we can return." A woman said, " It cannot rain until after we return home to Delena." "Why not." " The rain-maker is with us, and he alone has power." ■ • " Where is he ? " and she pointed to the chief Kone. " Kone, my friend what about the rain ? " . " It cannot rain ; so do not be afraid." " But I think it will rain this afternoon." " You need not fear, so let us start." As they were so pressing, the party set out for the three mile walk. Soon Mr. Chalmers said, " Now, Kone, it will rain." " It will not," — and he cried out, " Rain, stay on the' mountains." " No use, Kone ; rain will come." They reached Namoa. The rain came, and they were prisoners. Kone only said — " Do you think I thought you were a man of no power? You are a Lohiabada (great chief) and so am I, but the rain has listened to you." " Come, my friend, remember what I have been telling you of the great and good Spirit, and His power." Kone laughed, and soon after when the rain EXPLORING FOR STATIONS— COAST VISITS. 83 abated and th'e stars peeped out he appeared greatly relieved. At Namoa, for the first time in New Guinea, Mr. Chalmers met a real chieftainess, and a per- fect Amazon. Koloka ruled both her husband and people. She was about twenty-four years of age, and her husband appeared two years older, and rather good-looking. The women were all rather masculine. Two young girls were being introduced to society, and the customary feasting and dancing was arranged for that evening. The missionary held an evening service, which was attended by a great and orderly audience. The missionary party had to camp out, sleeping in damp clothes and without blankets. The next day Koloka and a large party accompanied them to the boats. The Delena people returned at the same time. Mr. Chalmers arrived at Maiva on the 27th, and' walked to Oa's village. Oa's brother Paru led him into the chief's house, which was very dark. Oa was buried in the centre, and a mat was spread over the grave on which Tamate was asked to sit until they had a weeping. It proved too much for Mr. Chalmers, who sent for the teacher Piri to take his place^ Oa spoke to all before his death of Mr. Chalmers as his special friend, and wondered why he did ngt come. He was a warrior from youth, a great, sorcerer, and had wonderful influence. The temple, a large building 160 feet by 30, was given up to Mr. Chalmers, but he only occupied Oa's place. All the posts were carved and named, and each chief had his own post. A large front post with a well-carved alligator, done by Oa shortly before his death, with a tomahawk Mr. Chalmers gave him, was- called Tamate. The next day they held the first public Christian 84 JAMES CHALMERS. service in that district. Afterwards Rua, one of the chiefs, told Tamatd their customs and beHefs respect- ing the dubu (temple). Rua had just visited Port Moresby and seen the new church. He said, " Tamate, your dubu is bad." " No, Rua, it is small, but light ; and we invite men, women, and children to enter and hear of God's love through His Son, Jesus Christ. Your house is dark^ and no women or children must ever enter." ''Ah! You see this place is too sacred, and they must never enter." " Not so sacred as ours ; we never smoke or sleep in ours, as you do here. We worship the one Great Spirit by all meeting together, and praise Him in song, prayer, reading His Word, and hearing of Him." To Rua this was all new. He and all Maiva would willingly have received teachers had the missionary any to send. The next morning before daylight they left for Kevori, a district inland of Cape Possession. The party was led by Paru, and when sitting on a platform in the evening there was a strong shock of earthquake. Mr. Chalmers had a peculiar sensation as of sea-sick- ness, and feared the platform was going to fall. They all regretted that the party could only stay until the morning, and proposed that they should sit by the dubu fire all night talking and singing, but the tired missionary strongly objected. They set out for Delena. Meauri tried to detain them, and his cry on parting was, " Do return soon." With a fine wind Yule was soon passed, and at Delena they met four large canoes with Boera natives who had purposed going on to Maiva, but were told to return by the great Yule sorcerer, because he did not receive an. arm shell large enough to satisfy him. EXPLORING FOR STATIONS— COAST VISITS. 85 He said they would all be killed. Mr. Chalmers met this sorcerer, who, he says, was " a small, mean, wicked-looking fellow." The natives were dreadfully afraid of him, and he was full of passion when told by Tamatd in the presence of the people that his trade was one of murder, robbery, and lying ; that he had better relinquish it and no longer deceive the people. He got the best pig, best food, best tomahawk, and best shells his dupes could supply. These men are the cause of much of the murdering, and they can poison well. They also set one tribe against another. The sorcerer left Mr. Chalmers, vowing vengeance. As natives from Mekeo came in and reported the -rt-^^^^^S^^^^^ country to be in an un- i^^^^^^p^ settled state, Mr. Chalmers JL gave up his purpose of <<#^^^^ going there and returned to ..^^Si ^^K Namoa Creek to pay the ^^fewK^'' -^-IW. return visit promised to ^^^^^^M^S^^^ Queen Koloka. All the ^^^^^^^^^ people were away in their ^*«4^sk^*^^ plantations, Naime, the baby in netted cradle. uncle of Koloka, met Mr. Chalmers, and with his wife No. i returned to the village where she cooked dinner for the party. A lad was despatched to the chieftainess, who soon appeared with her husband, and after dinner all went to the plantations. A number of hammocks were slung between the trees. The men and women were hard at work turning over the earth with long poles. Koloka lay in a hammock, and gave her orders to a number of women, who passed them on to twelve more who were cooking in the shade close by. The people told Mr. Chalmers Koloka was always carried S6 ■ JAMES CHALMERS. in a hammock by women when travelling. Her orders were promptly obeyed, and she seemed to have much power over the people. She would not hear of Tamat^'s sleeping in the dubu, and was much interested in hearing of the marriage of his companion Maka to one of the teacher Ruatoka's daughters. All the- presents were carefully enumerated, and Koloka was anxious for Maka to live at Namoa. Her husband told Mr. Chalmers in great confidence that he had to pay an enormous sum for Koloka, — viz., ten arm shells, three pearl shells, two strings of dogs' teeth, several hundreds of cocoa-nuts, a large quantity of yams, and two pigs. The numerous mice prevented sleep, so at mid- night Tamate and party stole away. to the dubu, but were observed and followed. Then Naime and wife No. 2 carne and lighted a fire to keep off enemies, bodily and spiritual. Boe, Koloka's husband, waking up for his midnight smoke found they had left, and he came too ; but Mr. Chalmers ordered them all away. They were much astonished at his carelessness in sleeping anywhere, without fire, guards to watch, or arms of any kind ; and the strange wish to be /e/t a/one, will be long remembered. One of the results of this visit was the proposals made for peace between Boera and Namoa. There was an enmity of many years' standing, but some of Mr. Chalmers' Boeran boatmen were so well received that they arranged for their chiefs to go and conclude peace, Borea giving arm shells and pearl shells, Namoa presenting pigs, food, and betel-nuts. So with light hearts the Mission party went along the coast, reaching Boera in safety. CAMP AND MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT, HANUABADA, TORT MORESBY. CHAPTER V. ERRANDS OF PEACE, MERCY, AND JUSTICE. ^ "Push off the boat, • Quit, quit the shore, The stars will gui