TANGANYIKA 
 
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 https://archive.org/details/tanganyikaeleven00hore_1 
 
UJIJ 
 
TAN GAN YI KA: 
 
 ELEVEN YEARS 
 IN CENTRAL AFRICA 
 
 BY 
 
 EDWARD COODE HORE 
 
 MASTER MARINER 
 
 TYPHOBIA HOREI. 
 
 LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD 
 26 & 27 COCKSPUR STREET, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 
 
 1 892 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
EDWARD COODE HORE. 
 (From a Photograph by Russell and Sons, London. ) 
 
PREFACE 
 
 I HAVE before me, in my own handwriting, nine- 
 teen little books of notes and records of voyages, 
 travels, and work in Central Africa, much of their 
 contents being but abbreviated aids to memory — 
 altogether about iooo pages of MS., which, if 
 copied without extension, would themselves fill a 
 large volume. 
 
 I have been asked, however, to write within a 
 limited space a history of the Central African Mis- 
 sion, in the prosecution of which those records have 
 been accumulated. 
 
 It is very desirable that it should be so complete 
 as to record, as far as possible in consecutive order, 
 all the leading events of that Mission, but it is 
 evident that it cannot be more than a rapid glance 
 over those events : it can be but a sadly insufficient 
 memoir of my eleven comrades who lie buried along 
 the line of work described — but a brief notice of the 
 eleven others who, until failing health and other cir- 
 
viii 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 cumstances withdrew them from the work, did their 
 share towards its achievement. But brief as it must 
 be, bare as the related facts are, it should be in itself 
 a sufficient appeal for earnest and continued support 
 to the men and women now bearing the heat and 
 burden of the day, and for the continuance and 
 extension of that work which is already shedding a 
 bright ray of light over some of the darkest places 
 of the earth. 
 
 Grateful acknowledgments are due to some 
 others who have aided it in various ways. To the 
 agents of the Church Missionary Society for their 
 hospitality and ever -ready assistance and co-opera- 
 tion on the 600 miles of African track which we 
 have trod in common ; to the Universities' Mission 
 for the Kiswahili literature, the result of long years 
 of scholarly work, without which we should still be 
 almost groping in the dark with our Christian teach- 
 ing ; to Sir John Kirk for frequent practical aid and 
 encouragement ; to the Roman Catholic missionaries 
 on Tanganyika for kindly intercourse and constant 
 example of earnest devotion and self-sacrifice ; to 
 Tippu Tib for the maintenance of peace in the 
 neighbourhood of our stations, by using his influence 
 for that purpose over bigoted and ignorant oriental 
 colonists ; to Mohammed - bin - Alfan, and several 
 
PREFACE 
 
 IX 
 
 other intelligent and benevolent Arabs and Wasvva- 
 hili, for hospitality, for aid in imminent peril, and 
 frequent assistance and information ; to Bvvana 
 Heri, the late Sultan's officer at Saadani, where, 
 year after year since 1877, he has been the friend 
 and host of our agents, and who has more than 
 once amicably settled disputes between myself and 
 Arabs regarding slaves ; and last, but not least, to 
 the many noble and devoted servants, helpers, and 
 officers of the " Zanzibaris," who, by their tact, 
 devotion, and endurance, have often been the chief 
 aid to success on our journeys and voyages, and in 
 a number of critical positions, — I gratefully tender 
 my thanks, and beg for them those of the promoters 
 and supporters of our Mission. And not without 
 the hope that, as regards those Arabs and Arabised 
 Africans, something may yet be done to ensure such 
 discrimination in present and forthcoming African 
 affairs as to secure a continuance, for their and our 
 benefit, of what good work they are capable of, and 
 willing to do ; and of some such addition to, or 
 modification of, our missionary operations, as that 
 the Gospel may be preached to them also. 
 
 But the issue of this book has been long delayed 
 by my absence on an Australian voyage, and now, 
 
X 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 at the request of many friends, it is placed before the 
 general public, instead of being only addressed to 
 the missionary constituency. 
 
 It is thus presented to the general reader, not as 
 an apology for missionary work, nor as a report of 
 it specially drawn up to attract him, but as the 
 report of a missionary for the information of his 
 friends and supporters laid open to public perusal. 
 I trust it may interest the general reader, and per- 
 haps serve to remove some doubts and clear up 
 some misunderstandings in the minds of those not 
 accustomed to peruse missionary reports, as to the 
 character of that enterprise ; may serve to remind 
 the general public that the overland routes and 
 systems of navigation, and the wholesale reconcilia- 
 tion of native tribes to foreign visitors, by means 
 of which present - day explorers and exploiters of 
 Africa are able to explore and exploit, are due to 
 missionary enterprise ; and to remind them that if a 
 handful of peaceful men can make roads, build settle- 
 ments and houses and boats, can live amongst and 
 barter with and enter into every practical relation- 
 ship with the native tribes of interior Africa without 
 conflict or disturbance — that if this is so, the general 
 public would be perfectly reasonable in demanding, 
 as I think they should, that all others representing 
 
PREFACE 
 
 XI 
 
 us and our purposes and action in Africa should 
 prosecute their work in like peaceful manner. 
 
 I make no pretension whatever to literary skill ; 
 the reader will kindly remember that this is but a 
 sailor's yarn : a sailor's yarn about work connected 
 with the profession I have persistently followed from 
 boyhood — followed it (in the enterprise described 
 herein) to its farthest limit, by surveying my own 
 sea and building my own craft, for the best possible 
 purposes, the welfare and elevation of men. 
 
 I also disclaim any connection with political 
 party (through long isolation in Africa), or with 
 commercial interests (because I have none whatever), 
 or religious prejudice (because I believe in the 
 inscription on Livingstone's tomb) ; excepting al- 
 ways my individual share in our national respon- 
 sibility for the political, commercial, and religious 
 welfare of the millions of Africans who are now our 
 fellow - subjects or the subjects of our protection, 
 whose valuable produce and extensive consumption 
 of our manufactures have enriched us, whose lands 
 are being so widely parted out amongst us, and 
 an earnest desire that these responsibilities should 
 be fulfilled in accordance with the professions we make 
 in the British Constitution, the printed principles and 
 charters of the companies, and our Christian religion. 
 
xii 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 I have deemed it unnecessary to add yet another 
 to the many maps of Africa, and so I am able to 
 say that all the maps herein presented are drawn 
 from my own measurements and observations. The 
 other illustrations also are entirely original, and 
 drawn with sympathetic care by Miss Stevens from 
 my own descriptions, photographs, and sketches ; 
 "Crossing the Rukigura " and " Ujiji " being based 
 upon sketches by Rev. A. W. Dodgshun and Dr. 
 Southon, and the " Camp in Ugogo " from a drawing 
 by Bishop Hannington. 
 
 EDWARD C. HORE. 
 
LIST OF CONTENTS 
 
 CHAP. PAGE 
 
 L Preparation 3 
 
 II. Forward ! 13 
 
 III. Westward Ho ! 43 
 
 IV. Ujiji 67 
 
 V. The Cruise of the "Calabash" . ... 105 
 
 VI. The Heart of Africa 129 
 
 VII. Through much Tribulation 169 
 
 VIII. Filling up the Gaps 189 
 
 IX. Building and Ship -Building 227 
 
 X. The " Good News " at Kavala .... 257 
 
 XI. Looking Backward and Forward .... 291 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS 
 
 Panoramic View of Ujiji Frotitispiece 
 
 PACE 
 
 Portrait of Author vi 
 
 The Way to the Work 2 
 
 Crossing the Rukigura River 12 
 
 A Night-Camp under Baobab Tree 42 
 
 "Their Anxiety to get out quickly" .... 66 
 
 Surveying in the "Calabash" 104 
 
 Heart-Throbs of Africa 128 
 
 The Lord of the Lake 151 
 
 That Leviathan that playeth therein . . 151 
 
 The Sea of Ujiji 168 
 
 The Largest Central African Expedition . . 18S 
 
 Special Survey of the South End 226 
 
 Kavala Island 256 
 
 The S.S. "Good News" on Lake Tanganyika . . 290 
 
CHAPTER I 
 PREPARATION 
 
 "... prepare you victuals." 
 
 B 
 
CHAPTER I 
 
 PREPARATION 
 1876-1877 
 
 THE year 1876 was a remarkable one in the 
 history of missions to East Central Africa. 
 The Scotch Missions (aided by a grand special 
 subscription list of £ 12,000) had already launched 
 their little steamer, the I/a/a, on Lake Nyassa, and 
 were busy establishing the well-known station at 
 Livingstonia. 
 
 Bishop Steere and his party, representing the 
 Universities' Mission, were exploring also in the 
 direction of Nyassa and seeking positions for stations. 
 
 The Church Missionary Society had despatched 
 a pioneer party to commence operations on the 
 Victoria Nyanza. 
 
 Early in the same year Mr. Arthington of Leeds, 
 by a liberal offer of ^5000 towards "the purchase 
 of a suitable steamer and the establishment of a 
 
4 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 mission station at some eligible place on one of the 
 shores of Lake Tanganyika," tested the enterprise 
 and the faith of the London Missionary Society, 
 whose representatives for so many years had borne a 
 noble testimony in the southern regions of the con- 
 tinent of Africa. Should this Society, so honoured 
 and blessed elsewhere, take her share of responsi- 
 bility in the newer enterprises ? should she occupy 
 what might perhaps prove the most important posi- 
 tion in the whole region ? that beautiful central 
 lake, from the shores of which Dr. Livingstone had 
 written to the Christians of England, " Come on." 
 
 Dr. Mullens was at that time the Foreign Secre- 
 tary of the Society, and to his indefatigable efforts 
 in collecting information for the guidance of the 
 directors, and in awakening the interest of the 
 Society's supporters for special and continued help, 
 and to his personal attention to every detail of 
 expense and procedure, the determination to take 
 up this new enterprise, and much of its future 
 success, was largely due. And in its interests he 
 finally laid down his life. 
 
 On i 5 th March it was finally decided to go forward. 
 
 Mr. Roger Price, a well-tried veteran African 
 missionary, proceeded to Zanzibar to make a short 
 preliminary journey, specially with a view to judging 
 
PREPARATION 
 
 5 
 
 of the best means of transport for a missionary 
 expedition to the interior, it being hoped that the 
 bullock -waggon of South Africa might also be 
 utilised here. 
 
 In the months of June and July, while the pioneer 
 party of the C.M.S. were engaged in examining some 
 of the rivers in the hope of utilising boats, Mr. Price 
 was making an examination of the roads in the hope 
 of utilising wheeled vehicles. 
 
 His journey to Mpwapwa and back gave the 
 supporters of the proposed mission every encourage- 
 ment, both as regards the disposition of the tribes 
 and the possibility of the new mode of transport. 
 Further money was subscribed, and preparations 
 were made for a start on an efficient scale. 
 
 Amongst the most important elements in the 
 opening up of East Central Africa was the at once 
 prompt, courageous, and considerate action of Sir 
 Bartle Frere, when circumstances both gave us the 
 opportunity and demanded our interference for the 
 suppression of the slave trade on that coast. And 
 the same able statesman, who at the right moment 
 was prepared to enforce justice on behalf of the 
 oppressed, was prompt also to urge the prosecution 
 of such Christian teaching amongst the tribes as 
 would bring about their enlightenment and civilisa- 
 
6 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 tion, and strike at the root of the evil among them 
 by a complete change of thought and life. 
 
 In the appeal of Sir Bartle Frere to English 
 Christians to extend this good work, he calls special 
 attention to the suitability of the " General Instruc- 
 tions for Missionaries of the London Missionary 
 Society." The experience that had led to the fram- 
 ing of that code had been to a large extent African, 
 and the most illustrious of African missionary names 
 were connected with it. 
 
 It would be expected then that the preparation for 
 such an undertaking as the new mission to Central 
 Africa would be efficient and extensive, and so it 
 proved. 
 
 In the " Instructions " drawn up for the guidance 
 of the pioneer party, nearly every difficulty was 
 anticipated, nearly every detail of success suggested 
 and provided for. The necessity for industrial and 
 medical auxiliaries, the care of health, the methods 
 of meeting the peculiarities of life and thought of 
 the natives, the positions on the map desirable to 
 be held as connecting with the operations of other 
 societies, and helping to form a network of Christian 
 effort, were all provided for. At the same time the 
 work was so far new in its locality and circum- 
 stances that its agents were warned that " the pre- 
 
PR EPA R A TION 
 
 7 
 
 sent should be reckoned a provisional period, during 
 which many things of which we are now totally 
 ignorant will have to be examined and learned for 
 the first time." 
 
 Especially was the work, at the outset, to include 
 a special effort to introduce an improved mode of 
 transit (the bullock-waggon as used in South Africa), 
 which it was hoped would not only secure speed 
 and economy to the missionary operations, but be a 
 means of efficiently opening up the country generally. 
 
 For this purpose, and for the various requirements 
 of life and work in such an uncivilised country, there 
 were provided two waggons and eight carts specially 
 constructed, six other carts from India, an extensive 
 outfit of tools of all kinds, besides implements, 
 household and camp outfits, and provisions, as 
 well as the rope, canvas, and gear for rigging a boat 
 for Lake Tanganyika. 
 
 It was an outfit wonderfully complete. Only in 
 one direction was it impossible to arrange before- 
 hand, and that was as to its quantity ; and to ensure 
 success this was made so ample that it proved 
 afterwards to be more than could be conveyed by 
 the first expedition. The surplus formed a less 
 harmful subject for criticism than a deficiency would 
 have done. 
 
s 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 The choice of the personnel of the expedition 
 also exercised all the experience and discretion of 
 the directors, but was finally completed, along with 
 the preparation of the various stores, in ample time 
 for the travelling season of 1877. 
 
 The Central African Mission was eventually to 
 be carried on by the same organisation, of a District 
 Committee of its members, as in other places ; but 
 for the long and arduous journey, the leadership was 
 placed in the hands of the senior member, and 
 certain duties apportioned to each one ; the chief 
 responsibility to descend in turn upon them, in 
 case of death or removal, in the order of their 
 seniority. 
 
 Here is a list of the party selected : 
 
 Rev. R. Price. 
 „ J. B. Thomson. 
 
 E. S. Clarke. 
 
 A. W. Dodgshux. 
 Mr. E. C. Hore. 
 
 „ W. HUTLEY. 
 
 Messrs. Price and Thomson had already for 
 many years represented the Society in the interior 
 of South Africa ; Mr. Clarke was engaged in 
 mission work in Pondoland, and was to join the 
 
PREPARA TION 
 
 9 
 
 expedition at Zanzibar ; Mr. Dodgshun was a new 
 and well-fitted recruit from Cheshunt College ; and 
 Mr. Hutley a joiner and builder. 
 
 Four of the six, therefore, were specially trained 
 and experienced Christian teachers ; two (Messrs. 
 Thomson and Dodgshun) had received special 
 medical training ; three were well experienced in 
 the conduct of bullock-waggons and African travel ; 
 and the others brought their professional skill in 
 navigation and building into the work. All of them, 
 full of zeal for its prosecution and faith in its 
 success, went forth with the blessings and prayers 
 of thousands of Christians in England, who believed 
 with them that the Gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ, 
 lovingly proclaimed and faithfully lived by His 
 servants, is the true Light for the darkest places of 
 the earth. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 FORWARD! 
 
 Let us go up and possess the land. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 FORWARD ! 
 1877-1878 
 
 ON 6th March a meeting of the Board of 
 Directors was held to bid farewell to the 
 pioneer party. In encouraging words they bade 
 them God-speed, and commended them in earnest 
 prayer to His keeping at whose call they were going 
 forth. Mr. Wright, of the Church Missionary 
 Society, was also there, and in loving words 
 expressed the sympathy of that Society and their 
 desire for co-operation in the Central African field, 
 where their several parties would often travel the 
 same road. 
 
 On the evening of the same day a public 
 valedictory service was held at the Memorial Hall, 
 Farringdon Street, where particulars of the intended 
 enterprise were again set forth to a large assembly 
 of the supporters of the Society and the representa- 
 tives of other missionary societies, who enthusi- 
 
TANGANYIKA 
 
 astically expressed sympathy with the work, and 
 determination to support it. 
 
 Thus, with the prayers and blessings of the churches, 
 the brethren were sent forth upon their mission. 
 
 Messrs. Price and Dodgshun proceeded round the 
 Cape in order to visit Port Elizabeth and Natal, to 
 enlist necessary waggon -drivers and leaders, and 
 purchase a few draught-oxen to help the breaking-in 
 of the new and raw beasts to be purchased on the 
 east coast. They hoped also to pick up Mr. Clarke 
 at Natal on their voyage northward to Zanzibar. 
 
 Messrs. Thomson, Hutley, and myself arrived at 
 Zanzibar, by way of the Rea Sea, on the 27th May ; 
 with us came the carts and waggons, provisions, 
 and general stores of the expedition. A firm of 
 English merchants, afterwards Messrs. Boustead, 
 Ridley, and Co., acted as financial and business agents 
 there ; and through them the engagement of native 
 servants, the purchase of barter goods, hire of dhows 
 for conveyance to the mainland, etc., were transacted. 
 They now forward letters, cash drafts, and otherwise 
 form a connecting link between those up country 
 and home supplies and support. 
 
 Two days afterwards, Messrs. Price and Dodgshun 
 arrived by the Cape mail-boat, bringing with them 
 twelve colonial bullock -drivers and twenty oxen. 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 15 
 
 Only two more days were taken up packing and 
 unpacking and making various purchases, for as the 
 camp was to exist for some weeks at least near the 
 coast, Zanzibar would still be easy of access for 
 further business. 
 
 On 2d June Messrs. Price, Dodgshun, and 
 Hutley proceeded to the mainland with the first 
 three dhows, conveying the drivers, the bullocks, 
 and the wheels and sections of two waggons and four 
 carts, but they did not finally sail till seven next 
 morning. 
 
 On 5th June two more dhows were loaded up 
 with the remainder of the carts and the stores for 
 first use, and Mr. Thomson and I sailed in them, 
 landing at Saadani on the morning of the 6th. The 
 first party found an empty house made ready for 
 their reception by Bwana Heri, whose friendship 
 Mr. Price had secured on his previous visit. They 
 could not have lost much time, for the first sight 
 that met our view on landing was a team of twelve 
 oxen yoked to one of the waggons, and gaily 
 careering round the level plain outside the village. 
 
 That evening the whole party met together in their 
 house in Saadani, and on African soil renewed their 
 self-dedication to their Master's service in that land. 
 
 By Saturday night all the carts were jointed and 
 
1 6 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 bolted together ; one of them had been driven to 
 Ndumi and back, and it was decided to move on to 
 that place and form a camp for training bullocks 
 and otherwise preparing for the journey. 
 
 On Monday, iith June, the two waggons were 
 loaded up with all necessaries, and the whole party, 
 starting at eleven o'clock, made their first move to 
 Ndumi, where a position was chosen and a camp 
 made for residence and work. The distance was 
 nearly six miles, the time taken four hours. It 
 seems poor work, yet it must be remembered that 
 this party of six had to move everything they re- 
 quired for life and work apart from any outside 
 help ; it was like a gipsy party moving food, clothes, 
 bedding, kettles ; everything, not only for the next 
 meal, but for the next month, must be packed some- 
 where. And then for the road : a wheel of the first 
 waggon comes against a stump and the whole caval- 
 cade has to stop, put down what they are carrying, 
 get out implements and remove the obstruction, and 
 pack the tools away again before starting afresh. 
 The four hours notwithstanding, that journey was 
 considered by all as a grand success, auguring well 
 for the future. 
 
 Ndumi is a village on the top of a hill, which 
 slopes away from it on every side. The centre of 
 
FORWARD I 
 
 17 
 
 the village is a small clear space at the foot of two 
 immense baobab trees ; the houses, low rectangular 
 structures, thatched with palm leaves, and a tall 
 cocoa-nut tree here and there rising high above the 
 roofs. 
 
 There was a stockade round the village at one 
 time, but it is broken down in many places, and in 
 others well-nigh hidden amongst heaps of ashes, 
 maize husks, and other domestic refuse. The site 
 itself is splendid, and, to one standing at an opening, 
 which would be the eastern gate, if one existed, and 
 ignoring the dirt heaps, the outlook is very fine. 
 Down over the tree -tops, five miles away, lies the 
 sea-beach, with its fringe of plainly discernible cocoa- 
 nut trees, amongst which nestles the long straggling 
 coast town Saadani. Twenty-five miles over the 
 sea, Zanzibar looms up like a cloud on the horizon, 
 and dotted about in the strait are a few of the 
 Arab dhows that do the coasting trade and keep up 
 communication between the island and the main. 
 Far away, north and south, the same long line of 
 beach extends — on one side of it the wide sea 
 stretching away into the hazy distance, and land- 
 ward gradually rising undulations of tree-tops as far 
 as the eye can reach. Westward, a space of corn 
 and pumpkin patch, and then all beyond the same 
 
i8 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 sea of tree-tops, giving the idea of limitless forest 
 and jungle. But to a closer view there are plenty 
 of open spaces, broad grassy glades in the valleys, 
 and isolated clumps of denser jungle or forest and 
 bush well scattered and affording free passage 
 between. Ndumi is 360 feet above sea level, and 
 has a climate distinctly more healthy than that of 
 Saadani. 
 
 A quarter of a mile to the north, and on a semi- 
 open and level space slightly below the village, we 
 formed our camp. 
 
 With its white canvas and straight lines of tents 
 and waggons it made a remarkable feature in the 
 scene. 
 
 The front of the camp was a long rough railing 
 of poles, the large central opening in which was 
 formed of two straight young tree -stems stuck in 
 the ground, with a lintel across the top. From the ends 
 of this railing the two sides commenced alike with a 
 large bell-tent, and then one of the waggons. Beyond 
 these, one side was continued by the quarters of the 
 native servants and helpers and the cooking place 
 for the missionaries, and the other side by the 
 quarters and cooking place of the Kaffir bullock- 
 drivers and the enclosure for the cattle ; all being 
 partly huts, partly rail and fence of grass and 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 19 
 
 branches and poles, any little gap serving as 
 entrance in the daytime being stopped up at night 
 with branches of thorns. The back of the camp con- 
 sisted of a row of carts drawn up in regular array, 
 each having its tarpaulin stretched over and pegged 
 to the ground, forming a shelter. A large open 
 space was thus enclosed ; near its centre the space 
 about a wild olive tree formed a sort of citadel or 
 headquarters, where stood the tent of the leader of 
 the expedition, and a large trestle table affording a 
 general meeting-place for meals and conference. On 
 the topmost branch of the tree itself a staff was 
 fixed, bearing the Mission flag, with its peaceful 
 device of the dove and olive-branch. 
 
 Here lived our party of six, the Kaffir drivers, 
 and ten or twelve Swahili workmen and servants, 
 while the work of preparation was going on. The 
 camp was daily a busy scene of visiting, bartering, 
 and work of all kinds. Chiefly at that time the 
 camp was regarded by the natives as a cattle- 
 market, for the white men were always crying out for 
 " more oxen," and buying them daily. At daylight 
 every one, white and black, would muster to the 
 sound of the bugle. After a hasty cup of coffee, 
 we commenced work at once in our several depart- 
 ments : one to get food bought and prepared for the 
 
20 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 community, one seeing to the oxen, one to barter 
 for those brought for sale by the natives, and every 
 one busy. Later on we would gather under the olive 
 tree for breakfast and prayers, and after a mid-day 
 rest, all perhaps turn out to a general exercise of 
 bullocks, first drawing large bushy trees and after- 
 wards carts. The new purchases, placed one by one 
 amongst the trained animals, were thus gradually 
 initiated into the details of their new bondage. 
 
 The gradual arrival of the various stores from 
 Zanzibar, the purchase of barter goods, and other 
 arrangements, often took some of the party to Saadani 
 or Zanzibar, between which places constant com- 
 munication was kept up. On the 3d July, the 
 party was completed by the arrival in camp of 
 Mr. Clarke. 
 
 During six weeks of this life much had been done ; 
 much, indeed, had been " examined and learned for 
 the first time." We had found that it would be 
 impossible to convey to Ujiji the whole mass of 
 stores with which we were provided ; but it might 
 well be cause of congratulation all round that our 
 provisions and tools exceeded in liberality of supply 
 all our needs, rather than of regret or implied failure 
 in not carrying up country all that we had ; for 
 after all, the object of the expedition was the 
 
FORWARD! 
 
 21 
 
 entrance and establishment of the men themselves 
 in the country. 
 
 In very careful and united conference these 
 supplies were thinned down again and again, to 
 adapt them to our powers of transport, — items of 
 personal outfit being repeatedly sacrificed in favour 
 of stores for the general welfare of the Mission. 
 
 We had all had a good taste of the " Mukunguru," 
 or seasoning fever, but we had gained experience as 
 well of native character and of life and work gener- 
 ally. We had procured, and to a great extent 
 trained, over ninety oxen, and prepared the harness 
 and gear of waggons, tents, and outfit. And, 
 perhaps most hopeful of all, we had already attached 
 to ourselves a few native helpers, who greatly aided 
 us. Imagine one of our number — after hours of hard 
 labour with the bullocks under a tropical sun, the 
 thermometer, even under canvas, at over 90 0 — 
 returning dusty and knocked-up to his tent, eager 
 " just to lie down." In his tent door his " savage " 
 servant meets him : " Oh, sir," he says, " you will get 
 fever if you lie down like that ; here is the water 
 and towel all ready, and dry clothes " ; and by per- 
 suasive manner and ready means leads his master 
 into the simple refreshment that will secure the best 
 rest, and probably prevent illness. 
 
22 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Another one I have known, over and over again, 
 
 follow for miles with a kettle in hand, and at the 
 
 right moment, when we have been perhaps resting 
 
 for a time beneath a tree, produce without trouble 
 
 or fuss a cup of tea or a dish of stew, which we 
 
 should never have taken the trouble to arrange for. 
 
 All this is very pleasing, and still more hopeful as 
 
 indicating possibilities for still better things. Two 
 
 of the colonial bullock-drivers, however, had already 
 
 proved utterly unfit, and had been sent home. 
 
 Wednesday, 2 ^th July. — Passing clouds, but no rain. 6 A.M., 
 prepared for a start, packed up provisions, etc. ; 
 struck pantry tent. Natal ox with broken horn was 
 killed to save his life, and disappeared at once into 
 small rations. Swahili men proved active and willing. 
 After breakfast, struck camp in reality, packed up pots 
 and pans — packed everything possible into the 
 waggons ; remainder of bedding, with cooking gear, 
 bags of provisions, etc., packed for carrying, and when 
 at last all private effects were got out of tents, 
 struck them and packed them up, and about noon six 
 carts and a waggon were under weigh for Ujiji. 
 Amidst all our difficulties, which are many, and indeed 
 four of our party indisposed, it was pleasing to excite- 
 ment to see the vehicles at last actually moving on 
 our route. Mr. Price, however, had to do a good deal 
 of bullocking himself, and evening found us in camp, 
 only three-quarters of a mile west of Ndumi. Early in 
 the afternoon I went on with the tents and goods which 
 were being carried, and set up a camp in a suitable 
 position, so that when all the party arrived they found 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 23 
 
 dinner ready and beds made. This has been a very 
 good day's work. After dinner I went back with my 
 man Hamees to the old camp, to stay by the stuff 
 (one waggon and one cart), where I found the faithful 
 Hassan duly keeping watch with some chums gathered 
 round the fire feasting on beef. 
 
 The above is a piece of my private journal. 
 
 One little incident of that day's work will never 
 be forgotten. As the waggon stuck in the soft 
 ground just outside the village, all its inhabitants 
 turned out to look at the wonderful sight, and were 
 chiefly astonished at the hard work being done by 
 the " white men." In the midst of a pause in our 
 work, — dusty, hot, and perspiring, — I addressed a 
 native woman : " Mother, bring me a drink of water." 
 The woman turned at once into the village and 
 brought a supply of water, which was handed round in 
 a gourd bowl. This little incident seemed suddenly 
 to make all akin — the natives were pleased, and our 
 party cheered. The next day the remaining waggon 
 and cart were brought on, and camp No. 1 
 abandoned. 
 
 Soon after, another Natal ox died, but a purchase 
 of eighteen native beasts made our number up to 
 126. 
 
 On the 30th, another day's journey took us 
 not quite half a mile farther ! and at that camp, 
 
24 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 No. 3, it was decided to take back four carts and 
 five cartloads of goods, a measure which was 
 promptly carried out next day, and the goods care- 
 fully bestowed in a house at Xdumi, under the 
 care of Bwana Heri of Saadani. 
 
 Thus lightened, the party proceeded with the two 
 waggons and three carts, and a party of sixteen 
 native porters carrying personal outfit and camp 
 equipage. With numberless adventures and enor- 
 mous labour, the expedition reached Msoero, a tidy 
 village of Wamakua, about 130 miles from the coast, 
 on 4th September : a journey of forty-two days from 
 Ndumi. 
 
 At this time Mr. Mackay, of the Church Mission- 
 ary Society's Expedition which had gone in the 
 year before, was coming coastwards. From Mpwapwa, 
 hearing of our effort with the waggons, he was taking 
 careful notes as to the best road for the purpose, 
 and cutting a track for us through some of the worst 
 places. At one of these we were delighted to find a 
 timber bridge across a nasty gully, over which our 
 waggon-train passed in safety, and the whole caval- 
 cade halted and gave " three cheers for Mackay." 
 When he met us on the road he stayed a day with 
 us, during which he and I worked side by side with 
 pick and shovel, showing the natives how to make a 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 25 
 
 road ; and during subsequent intercourse we initiated 
 him into the mysteries of bullock -training, etc., and 
 so in various ways we aided each other in these 
 practical operations. 
 
 Mr. Price, in his preliminary inspection of the 
 east coast countries, had found the superiority of the 
 portion of the road commencing at Saadani over 
 that from Bagamoyo, and our friends of the C.M.S. 
 had adopted that as the best ; but Mr. Mackay now 
 recommended a recurrence to the Bagamoyo road 
 in the neighbourhood of Mchiropa, which proves to 
 be the best (in this its latter half) at certain times of 
 the year, for although it is less healthy, it is rich in 
 food, and being less hilly is more easy travelling, at 
 least for wheeled vehicles. 
 
 At Mchiropa, therefore, the party had left what 
 had become known as " Mr. Price's," or the upper 
 road, and went on by the lower, or " Mackay's " 
 road, to Msoero. 
 
 Msoero, as things go in Africa, was a highly 
 respectable village, quiet, clean people, a good chief, 
 and plenty of food, and after much deliberation, and 
 it having become evident that the party would not 
 get farther than Mpwapwa in the season, it was 
 decided to divide at this point, leaving two carts in 
 the care of the chief, — Messrs. Thomson, Dodgshun, 
 
26 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 and Hutley to proceed towards Mpwapwa with one 
 waggon and one cart ; Messrs. Price, Clarke, and 
 myself to return to the coast with one waggon and 
 three spans of oxen, to bring on the four carts and 
 stores left at Ndumi. That something should be 
 left at Msoero for the time was necessary, because 
 out of the twenty Natal oxen all had died but nine, 
 and of over a hundred native beasts more than 
 thirty had already died or been lost. 
 
 In three days all preparations had been made, 
 and the two carts and their contents stowed away in 
 charge of the chief's wife. 
 
 On the 7th September both parties started. First 
 helping Mr. Thomson's cart and waggon across the 
 river on the way to Mpwapwa, our party turned 
 coastwards. The waggon was but lightly loaded, 
 and had the advantage of the now cleared road, so 
 that although nearly all the drivers were sick, and 
 some of the oxen very weak, the journey back to 
 Ndumi was accomplished in sixteen days. During 
 this journey the Kaffir drivers seemed all to lose 
 their strength and energy. It was very difficult to 
 get them to keep up with the rest of the party. At 
 Kidudwe three of them lagged behind, and were 
 missing at the next camp. Two good men were 
 sent after them, only to find that one of the poor 
 
FORWARD .' 
 
 27 
 
 fellows had died suddenly at the village of Mbuzini, 
 his companions struggling on to camp in perfect 
 listlessness, not even reporting his death, which was 
 found out by inquiry only. They seem to have lost 
 heart, and if left to themselves would scarce try to 
 live. Even Mr. Price, who knew them best, began 
 to think they were unsuitable for the country and 
 the work. On arrival at the coast they very much 
 wished to return to South Africa. On 3d October 
 another poor fellow died, worn out with many fevers 
 and dysentery. The early rains now commenced, 
 and this change, together with the reaction after the 
 long spell of great exertion, told upon the oxen. 
 All the Natal oxen died, except the three left with 
 Mr. Thomson's party, and several more of the native 
 animals. It became evident that the plan of going 
 back with the four carts could not be carried out, 
 and porters were at once engaged to convey the 
 necessary stores towards Mpwapwa. Not that there 
 was any thought at this time of giving up the 
 bullock -waggon method of transport ; but as the 
 season was advancing it was necessary at least 
 to get sufficient stores to some point at or near 
 Mpwapwa to make the expedition efficient and self- 
 supporting so far, without delaying longer to perfect 
 the new mode of transport. There were, in fact, 
 
28 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 many encouraging symptoms in connection with this 
 new mode. A certain M. Philippe Broyon, the only 
 European trader in that region, was about starting 
 for Unyamwezi, and had determined, seeing ours, to 
 try carts also. When we reached the coast Broyon 
 was at Ndumi ; he had bought up the Indian carts at 
 Zanzibar, and we found him all ready for a start with 
 about sixty oxen and seven carts. Our South African 
 brethren pronounced his harness and fittings hetero- 
 dox, but efficient. Then at Saadani Mr. Mackay 
 was already training oxen in the hope of taking in a 
 few carts on the way back to Victoria Nyanza. An 
 enterprising Hindi at Saadani had already set up a 
 small cart and driven to Ndumi. The boys far and 
 wide had changed the fashion from model boats to 
 model waggons very ingeniously made. 
 
 All haste was necessary to get ready for return 
 up country before the rains should render it im- 
 possible. I was busy at Ndumi packing into ninety 
 " man-loads " the goods to be taken, Messrs. Price 
 and Clarke at Zanzibar and Saadani collecting 
 porters and concluding business. Two more of the 
 Kaffirs were paid off and sent to their homes. 
 
 On i 8th October a start was made from Ndumi : 
 Messrs. Price and Clarke with one cart, to which the 
 waggon cover had been fitted, and a party of fifteen 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 29 
 
 workers and porters ; and myself in charge of a party 
 of ninety-eight loaded porters. 
 
 Meantime somewhat similar experiences had 
 been undergone by our friends up country. Beyond 
 Msoero the road followed more or less the Mukon- 
 dokwa or south-western arm of the Wami River, an 
 extremely rich and populous valley, winding amongst 
 mountains and densely filled with the most luxuriant 
 growths of corn, sugar-cane, and grasses : a road 
 which, while not presenting the mountainous obstruc- 
 tions of the upper, or " Price's " road, yet proved 
 most difficult to the passage of vehicles. The close, 
 moist heat of the confined valley, the dense masses 
 of grass and jungle, within which the whole caravan 
 would sink out of sight, the road having literally 
 to be felt for amongst rocks and tree-stumps, severely 
 tried the endurance of both man and beast. 
 
 Reaching at length the neighbourhood of the last 
 villages in the valley, between which and Mpwapwa 
 lay an uninhabited tract of forty miles, it became 
 necessary to halt. Many of the oxen were already 
 dead, the others all weak and ill. If it were possible 
 even to struggle on to Mpwapwa there would be no 
 remaining strength, time, or means to bring the 
 remainder of the stores from Msoero. A camp was 
 therefore made near Kirasa's, where Messrs. Dodg- 
 
3o 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 shun and Hutley remained, while Mr. Thomson 
 returned to Msoero with the oxen in the hope of 
 bringing on the carts which had been left there. On 
 17th October Mr. Thomson wrote from Msoero that 
 he would be unable to take on more than one of the 
 carts from that place, for only sixteen of his oxen 
 remained alive, and several of them unable to work. 
 This news reached our party at Magubika. Both 
 sections of the expedition had met with the same 
 experience. On 27th October Mr. Thomson came 
 to meet us as we approached, and we all camped 
 together near the Rukigura River, where two days 
 of consultation ensued. It was impossible for the 
 expedition to proceed unless it was reinforced, either 
 by more oxen or a body of porters, and as the rainy 
 season was already upon us, it was decided to make 
 a more permanent camp or temporary station, to 
 secure the health and safety of the expedition and 
 its property during the compulsory halt ; Mr. 
 Dodgshun and myself to return quickly to the coast 
 and bring together, by means of porters, the goods 
 yet remaining there ; and as there was now time to 
 spare, Mr. Price to return to England, and by per- 
 sonal report to the directors more clearly explain 
 the state of things. 
 
 On 31st October, therefore, Mr. Price departed 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 3i 
 
 for the coast. The cart was dragged across the 
 now swollen river, and the rest of us proceeded 
 to Msoero, where we were met by Mr. Dodgshun, 
 who had been told by letter of the proceedings, and 
 come so far to meet us. On the 14th the party 
 again separated : Mr. Clarke in charge of the loaded 
 porters, and Mr. Thomson with the three lightly- 
 laden carts, moved away west to establish the camp 
 at Kirasa's ; and Mr. Dodgshun and I, with the bare 
 necessaries for a quick tramp to the coast, left 
 shortly afterwards. We were both in high spirits 
 at the prospect of more rapid travelling, and the 
 important independent errand entrusted to us. Shar- 
 ing the same tent, we got better acquainted, and 
 thoroughly enjoyed the new mode of life. The 
 walk to Ndumi was accomplished in eight days, 
 averaging 17-^ miles a day, the last day's journey 
 being over 2 3 miles. The " early rains " were 
 unusually copious : scarce a day passed on the road 
 without a wetting, each day's march was through 
 swamps or swollen streams, and everything was 
 moist and steamy. 
 
 At the house provided for us at Ndumi by the 
 ever-hospitable Bwana Heri, and in which our goods 
 were stored, we put up in camp fashion, and set 
 about organising a caravan of porters : one trip 
 
3- 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 at least to Zanzibar was necessary, and frequent 
 journeys to Saadani. The goods were all over- 
 hauled and packed in proper 6o-lb. loads, and porters 
 gradually collected. 
 
 On 2 1st December all the goods were ready 
 packed, and we only waited the last party of porters 
 from Zanzibar. That afternoon, as we sat in the 
 verandah of the house at Ndumi, we were astonished 
 at the arrival of a small party from up country. As 
 the porters came along we recognised the well-known 
 " L.M.S." boxes and camp gear, and were astonished 
 to find them followed in by Mr. Clarke. He told us 
 he was on his way to return to his old work in South 
 Africa. He had anticipated a more rapid progress 
 to Ujiji ; subsequently he had offered to found a 
 station in the district of Nguru, 100 miles from the 
 coast, where we had encountered a numerous and 
 interesting people in a district that appeared healthy 
 and available. Our directors, however, were not 
 prepared to take up work there, nor (in view of the 
 understanding with the Church Missionary Society 
 as to the districts to be occupied by the two 
 Societies) was it available to them, and Mr. Clarke 
 had therefore decided to return to South Africa to 
 a work for which he had peculiar facilities and 
 experience. 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 33 
 
 From him we heard of the progress of Messrs. 
 Thomson and Hutley. They had selected a site 
 overlooking the Mukondokwa River, where, for storage 
 and residence, they had erected three or four huts in 
 improved native style, and were living on friendly 
 terms with the natives there. 
 
 Christmas Day. — A strange day to commence a 
 journey, but we had 150 hungry and fidgety men 
 — one day's delay might almost break up the party, 
 and no mere announcement of the start would bring 
 them together in earnest ; it was necessary actually 
 to break camp, the news of which would effectually 
 make all the stragglers bestir themselves. So we 
 moved on in the afternoon just a short distance. 
 
 On this journey we got thoroughly initiated into 
 the ways of the African porters, and the methods and 
 difficulties of African travelling as necessitated by 
 having them. The rains were very heavy, and most 
 disheartening both to the porters and ourselves. 
 The rivers were much swollen, and three times we 
 had to wait a day for a flood to subside. Hours 
 together we waded knee-deep— thigh-deep— in mud 
 and water, and in several places the whole caravan 
 consisted for a time of a row of heads and shoulders 
 above the surface of the slimy water. At a deep 
 place in the centre of one of these morasses one fine 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 tall man stood, and aided, by the support of his 
 hands, each man to get across the gap. The 
 marine department, fortunately, had provided ropes, 
 and the passage of two or three rivers was effected 
 with their aid, stretched across as a hand-rail. 
 
 At the Rukigura the flood was too great even for 
 this mode, and the whole party (except a dozen or so 
 who swam across) were passed over, dangling, one 
 by one, from a block that ran backwards and for- 
 wards on a tightly-stretched overhead rope. Mr. 
 Dodgshun swam across and superintended the work 
 on the far side, and I placed the men and the loads 
 in the sling and despatched them over. 1 
 
 Several times during this journey we had diffi- 
 culty with the discontent of our men, who demanded 
 more food and shorter journeys ; but balancing up 
 all the circumstances, we cannot but praise the men 
 for their endurance and wonderful spirits, and a 
 certain rough faithfulness and loyalty to their work 
 and the interests of the caravan. 
 
 In an overclouded and depressing atmosphere, 
 after a day's work of wading through mud and 
 water, plunging through wet, muddy grass, and 
 arriving at last, bed and clothes all wet, to a still 
 more dismal camping-ground, with fuel difficult to 
 
 1 See illustration, page 12. 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 35 
 
 find, it is no wonder men should feel discontented at 
 times. The wonder is how they keep up through it 
 at all. Even at such times some little ludicrous 
 incident will enliven the whole party. On one 
 occasion one of our number, at just such a camp, 
 had a mug of water given him at dinner that was 
 not transparent, and several tadpoles only came in 
 sight towards the end of the meal. Grown some- 
 what confident in the use of the language, he 
 remonstrated with his servant in words which, being 
 translated, meant : " Look here, what do you mean 
 by bringing little Jiippopotami in my water ? " This 
 was quite too much for their risibility, and the joke 
 served for many days to raise a laugh among them. 
 Another time, passing along the line in a very 
 difficult part of the road, I was accosted by a dimin- 
 utive but spirited little fellow, who in solemn tones 
 said : " Master, I shall die to-morrow ! " " What do 
 you mean ? " I said. Without a word he pointed 
 to the immense double load he was carrying with 
 another man ; and the whole affair certainly did look 
 ludicrous, for although not heavier than others, it 
 was really bigger than the man himself. " Well," I 
 said, " if you get that safely to camp you shall have 
 a smaller one to-morrow." The little fellow was all 
 life in a moment, and striking the load repeatedly 
 
36 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 with his stick, he enlivened us all with most remark- 
 able imitations of the Kaffir bullock-drivers' yells to 
 the oxen. 
 
 On 27th January 1878, after a trying but success- 
 ful march of thirty-four days, we wound along the 
 Mukondokwa valley, hidden completely at times in 
 the depths of the thick long grass, or the fields of 
 mtama (corn) with stalks sixteen feet high, until at 
 last, emerging on a clear space by the river, we saw, 
 high up on the opposite hillside, the English flag 
 waving over our settlement at Kirasa. 
 
 As we mounted the slope in slow procession the 
 porters gave vent to their joy and excitement in 
 continued shout and song, and gladly indeed laid 
 down their loads in the midst of our little village. 
 On a ledge on the hillside stood a semi-open shed 
 overlooking the whole valley ; it was a sort of dining- 
 room and reception hall for general use. Behind 
 this were grouped four round huts as stores and 
 residences. On one side a large clay oven, look- 
 ing like an ant-hill, gave hopes of good cheer of 
 bread and pies. On the other sides goats and fowls 
 found shelter, and a house of square form, on which 
 Mr. Thomson had bestowed great pains, gave quite 
 a civilised air to the whole. It was perhaps the 
 most healthy spot within many miles, the slope of 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 37 
 
 the hillside making it easy to drain away the rainfall. 
 The river near at hand supplied good water, and the 
 natives of the neighbourhood had already learned 
 to respect their new visitors, with whom a friendly 
 intercourse was daily maintained. 
 
 Here, then, we were efficiently sheltered from the 
 rains, and compact and ready for a start as soon as 
 plans were settled and the season permitted. 
 
 The rainy season proved to be an exceptionally 
 heavy one, and it was well indeed for all concerned 
 that we were not on the road during that term. It 
 was, however, by no means a time of idleness. 
 Daily intercourse with the natives gave us a use- 
 ful insight into their manners and characters, the 
 language was being learned, and the arranging and 
 repacking of the whole of our property for the next 
 stage of the journey was a continuous work through- 
 out our stay. 
 
 Mr. Price did not return, and the departure of 
 Mr. Clarke for South Africa had further reduced the 
 strength of the Mission. Mr. Price had laboriously 
 and faithfully started the work, and so initiated his 
 younger companions into the mysteries of African 
 life and travel as to greatly aid the successes of 
 after years. 
 
 Although in the interval that elapsed before the 
 
38 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 expedition again moved inland, and also on the 
 occasion of that start, the remaining carts and 
 waggon were moved on to Mpwapwa, both in order 
 to continue the experiment while some oxen still 
 lived, and in order to deposit the valuable property 
 of the waggon train at Mpwapwa, this method of 
 transport had certainly failed for use in the present 
 case. The failure was entirely that of the oxen, 
 for as regards the vehicles, the road, and the men, 
 all difficulties had been overcome. Where no road 
 existed it was made. Where obstacles occurred 
 they were boldly attacked and overcome. Rivers 
 had been bridged, jungle had been cut through, rocks 
 had been thrown aside. Steep irregularities of sur- 
 face were either cut with pick and spade into amen- 
 able gradients, or another way found. At one place 
 where a waggon had entirely disappeared under 
 water, with a bank too steep for it ever to be wheeled 
 up, tackles were rigged, hooked on under water, and 
 the waggon hoisted bodily up in the air. But the 
 oxen slowly succumbed and died ; the tsetse fly had 
 been plainly recognised at several points, and was 
 probably the chief cause of this — the want of nourish- 
 ing grass and the exceptional hard work aided their 
 destruction. M. Broyon, already referred to, suffered 
 similar loss. He struggled on to Kirasa also, but 
 
FORWARD ! 
 
 39 
 
 by that time he had lost nearly all the sixty oxen he 
 started with. Mr. Mackay, in travelling towards 
 Mpwapwa, met with the same experiences, and had 
 to give up the bullock-waggon method. 
 
 The progress beyond was now to be done by the 
 old-fashioned means of carriage by porters, in which 
 some of us had already gained experience. The 
 whole of the stores were accordingly weighed and 
 packed in suitable loads. The Society's agent at 
 Zanzibar engaged the porters, and despatched them, 
 as the time approached, to Kirasa. 
 
 An agreement was also made with M. Broyon, 
 by which he undertook the transport of a large 
 quantity of stores to Ujiji, which were accordingly 
 handed over to him. During this time the 
 missionaries of the C.M.S. were moving on, and had 
 already built temporary premises at Mpwapwa. Mr. 
 Thomson having a severe illness, Dr. Baxter had 
 kindly come from that place to attend him — one of 
 a long series of kind attentions and hospitality by 
 them to us. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 W EST WARD HO! 
 
 " Unto the great sea toward the going down of the sun shall 
 be your coast." 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 WESTWARD HO ! 
 1878 
 
 AT our little hillside settlement we had been 
 safe spectators of the wonders and beauties 
 of the African rainy season. 
 
 The view was extensive — the great Mukondokwa 
 valley lay stretched out before us. We could see 
 along, about twenty miles west, to the hills about 
 Lake Gombo, and eight or nine miles to the east, 
 to a bend which closed the view in that direction. 
 Immediately opposite, on the other side of the valley, 
 rose two lofty hills, surmounted by isolated masses 
 of rock, and beyond them, tier after tier of hills and 
 peaks away towards the northern and more moun- 
 tainous road. Amongst the scattered forests and 
 clumps of trees and projections of bare rock clothing 
 the hill -slopes on either side — amongst the dense 
 masses of reeds and grass filling the bottom of the 
 valley and hiding the river from view, diversified by 
 
44 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 broad belts of green corn and sugar-cane, and the 
 numerous collections of beehive-like huts of the 
 natives, we had witnessed all the varying effects of 
 tropical storm and sunshine, gloomy cloud-coverings 
 shutting in and darkening the whole valley, the 
 steady downpour of the rain so dense as to hide 
 everything at a short distance, the sun bringing out 
 into sparkling brilliancy the vegetation that increased 
 day by day into a dense growth, seeming to choke 
 the whole valley with its rich luxuriance. 
 
 Winding down through the bottom and centre of 
 all, here and there between its verdant banks, the 
 Mukondokwa River, as a rushing, flooded torrent, 
 added its refreshing sound and motion to complete 
 a scene wonderful and beautiful in the extreme. A 
 land literally flowing with milk and honey, " where 
 every prospect pleases and only man is vile." 
 
 The rain became less frequent, the clouds more 
 loose and scattered. The natives appeared abroad 
 with renewed activity, guarding their budding crops 
 from the birds and animals eager to share them, and 
 the time for travelling approached. The right time 
 cannot be exactly fixed, in consequence of the varia- 
 tions in the amount and time of the rainy influences. 
 The longer one waits the less obstructive the swamps 
 and the dense vegetation, the more healthy the atmo- 
 
WESTWARD HO / 
 
 45 
 
 sphere, but the less abundant and pure the great 
 necessity of life, for which the traveller must depend 
 upon the supplies of the rivers and pools he passes. 
 
 On 29th May, all accounts having been squared 
 with our friendly native neighbours, at 5 A.M. we 
 emerged from our little huts on the hillside, and 
 at the call of the bugle over 200 of our Zanzibar 
 carriers came forward ; about as fair a sample collec- 
 tion, perhaps, as could be got together, representing 
 nearly every tribe of Central Africa. Many of them 
 have a little sleeping mat, a best " kanso " (a sort of 
 long calico shirt), and a tiny bag containing smaller 
 properties ; and this, with perhaps two or three 
 yards of calico worn as a wrap, and a small sheath- 
 knife stuck in his girdle, completes the outfit and sole 
 possessions of one of these hard-working, adventurous 
 men. On the wage of $5 per month, of which 
 perhaps one or two months' advance has already 
 been spent in Zanzibar, and barter cloth to buy his 
 food (two yards of cheap calico served out every 
 seven days), such a man is prepared in good spirits 
 to walk to Ujiji with a box or bag weighing 60 lbs. 
 
 The loads are brought out, a motley collection 
 indeed : boxes large and small, rough packing- 
 cases and overland trunks, long narrow bundles of 
 various cloth for barter, sewn in matting and lashed 
 
46 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 with strips of hide, round bags of coffee and flour 
 also covered with hide, long cylindrical bundles 
 of beads, coils of brass wire, square packages of 
 tinned provisions ; most of these latter, being 30-lb. 
 packages, are lashed at each end of a little pole 
 carried over the shoulder, — a favourite load, giving 
 the greatest facilities for carrying the porter's mat 
 and other property fastened to it, — all well covered 
 with hide, mat, or sacking, and lashed together to 
 stand the rough usage of the journey. 
 
 The tents and camp outfit of folding bedsteads 
 and chairs, and baskets for provisions, and cooking 
 and table vessels, are all suitably packed according 
 to the same scale of weight. 
 
 After a lively scene of mingled hurry and dispute, 
 many a disappointed scowl, and many a hearty laugh, 
 men and loads are at last matched, and the long 
 cavalcade moves down towards the river-crossing. 
 Some of the men, full of spirit and eagerness, shout 
 out their determination to go to Ujiji without 
 stopping ; others dolefully express their belief that 
 they shall die under their load ; others seek to 
 encourage themselves and their comrades by such 
 cries as " I am an ass," " I am an ox and want two 
 loads," " I am a pagan," etc. ; nor are there wanting 
 some who have so far gathered some religious ideas 
 
WESTWARD HO / 
 
 47 
 
 from Arab influence as to invoke God's blessing on 
 the journey. 
 
 For ourselves, we are full of hope and belief in 
 the Divine care and protection for the enterprise, on 
 which we have started in obedience to Divine com- 
 mand ; and thus once more set out, at now acceler- 
 ated pace, strong both in faith and determination of 
 reaching our goal. 
 
 We had about forty miles to go to Mpwapwa, 
 across a scrubby, arid country — over the Madete 
 River, past the little Gombo Lake, and then a long 
 stretch of waterless country needing a forced march. 
 We encountered all the worry and difficulty of a 
 first start in desertions and discontent of our men ; 
 so that Mr. Hutley had to stop a day at Gombo with 
 some loads left behind to be brought on by relays, 
 while Mr. Dodgshun pressed on to Mpwapwa to 
 endeavour to engage some Wanyamvvezi porters we 
 heard of being there. 
 
 Mr. Thomson, not yet fully recovered from his 
 recent illness, had become ill again, and only reached 
 camp the next clay by having frequent rests. On 
 1st June he was carried in a hammock, but on arriving 
 at camp unable to take nourishment and evidently 
 sinking, I realised that the only hope for him was 
 quick conveyance to Mpwapwa, — far quicker than 
 
4 8 
 
 TAXGANYIKA 
 
 our caravan could march, — and, if possible, without 
 exposure to another noonday sun. Going out into 
 the beautiful calm night under the stars, I summoned 
 the faithful Juma, who quickly mustered half a 
 dozen able volunteers for the service. 1 cut up 
 a canvas waggon -cover and quickly improvised a 
 hammock (for our net hammocks would be too frail 
 and catch in the thorns), and at first break of day 
 despatched these faithfuls carrying Mr. Thomson. 
 Juma took our last little bottle of water, and promised 
 to give it to him in small drops at a time. They 
 ably fulfilled their errand, and under Dr. Baxter's 
 kind care and the comforts of the station Mr. 
 Thomson's life was saved. Thus we actually 
 arrived at Mpwapwa one at a time : Mr. Dodgshun 
 post-haste in front ; Mr. Thomson carried in a 
 hammock ; myself next day with the main body of 
 the caravan ; and Mr. Hutley the following day 
 with the loads that had been left behind — all very 
 thankful for the hospitality of the brethren of the 
 C.M.S. at that place. 
 
 On his way up country in 1876 Lieutenant Smith 
 of the C.M.S. had already introduced us by name to 
 the notice of the famous native Unyamwezi chief 
 Mirambo, who had expressed goodwill towards his 
 intended visitors. During our stay at Kirasa we 
 
WESTWARD HO / 
 
 49 
 
 had sent on two messengers to that chief, telling 
 him of our coming. Now while here at Mpwapwa, 
 our messengers returned with very friendly words 
 from Mirambo, and along with them 120 Wanyam- 
 wezi, ready to hire themselves as porters. These 
 we sent on to M. Broyon to help to form his 
 detachment. 
 
 Under the care of Dr. Baxter, Mr. Thomson 
 slowly revived, and in a week was able to walk 
 about again, and expressed his desire to proceed. 
 The four days' journey from Kirasa was a testing 
 time for the porters : several had proved utterly 
 inefficient, others had disappeared, and although a 
 few men had been picked up at Mpwapwa, it became 
 necessary once more to thin down the goods that 
 were being carried. 
 
 Careful selection was made of goods to go on or 
 to be left, and personal outfit was thinned down 
 to make room for official property and provisions ; 
 there was some difficulty in this, however, and it 
 became very evident, although we were loath to 
 separate, that if one of us remained behind, lessening 
 the mass by the amount of his outfit, the others 
 could go on more completely equipped. In the end 
 the question was decided for us : the quantity and 
 value of the property now left for M. Broyon to 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 bring on had so increased that it was necessary one 
 of us should remain with it and accompany him, to 
 aid the safety and progress of that part of the 
 expedition. Mr. Dodgshun volunteered for that 
 service, and although sorry to part from him, we 
 were all agreed on the necessity of the arrange- 
 ment. 
 
 On I 2th June the final start was made. We had 
 240 men all told, including the head man Juma, and 
 four petty officers under him. The cargo consisted 
 of ninety-two loads of cloth and other barter goods, 
 a proportion of which was to feed the 240 men 
 on the journey ; twenty -six loads of provisions, 
 medicines, etc., and the rest general stores, personal 
 effects, tents, and camp gear. Forty-two loads 
 altogether remained at Mpwapwa, to be stored there 
 or revert to M. Broyon's caravan. Mr. Thomson 
 was still so weak that bearers were appointed to 
 carry him from time to time ; otherwise the expedi- 
 tion left Mpwapwa in good order and condition, and 
 all in good spirits and full of hope. 
 
 After leaving the first camp at the brackish 
 waters of Chunyo, thirty miles of uninhabited and 
 waterless scrub lay before us. It is generally called 
 " desert," but as long as the rainy influence remains 
 it is in fact a most verdant and beautiful tract of 
 
WESTWARD HO! 
 
 51 
 
 country. It proved very trying to us all, but it was 
 passed in safety. The very last of our oxen w as 
 killed, as so many had been, in extremis, and 
 afforded a stimulating feast for our men in the middle 
 of this difficult march of the Marenga Alkali or 
 " bitter waters." 
 
 Entering Ugogo, entirely new experiences were 
 encountered, both in the aspect and character of the 
 natives and the circumstances of life. The constant 
 demands for hongo^ and the effort to draw a line 
 between a necessary and safe payment and a too 
 easy yielding to the demand, was a daily anxiety. 
 On the other hand, food, in consequence of the pre- 
 vious liberal rains, was plentiful and cheap, keeping 
 up the strength and spirit of the porters, so that 
 between the frequent stoppages good progress was 
 made. 
 
 Once clear of Ugogo, the other so-called desert 
 
 1 Payments demanded by the people from strangers passing through 
 their countries. This vexatious hongo, a tax inflicted more or less 
 on every traveller, white, black, or Arab, and often regarded as an 
 unjust exaction, must not, however, be unjustly judged of. In the 
 countries where it is demanded the traveller has to pay no other rates or 
 taxes, rents, customs, or fee, and in those countries especially he is pro- 
 tected by the local authorities and supplied with water where it is 
 scarce. The people of these countries, moreover, are those who, 
 occupying an intermediate position, do not otherwise share in current 
 commerce. It is also so far of the nature of customs dues that, 
 although in a rough-and-ready style, the assessment is made on the 
 nature and quantity of the goods passing through. 
 
5^ 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 of " Magunda Mkali " (the terrible or fiery plains) 
 compelled the porters, in fear of robbers and want of 
 food and water, to longer and more rapid marches, 
 and on 19th July Hiturah, the border village of 
 Unyamwezi, was reached, the next day Uyui, and 
 we were upon the edge of the great elevated country 
 that forms the heart of Africa. An entirely new 
 kind of people these Wanyamwezi, active and enter- 
 prising, living in fine villages of large houses in a 
 rich and prosperous country. Food was again plenti- 
 ful, and good progress made. Avoiding Unyan- 
 yembe, the capital of that portion of Unyamwezi 
 under Arab power and influence, we arrived on the 
 27th at the kwikuru (capital) of the native part 
 under the rule of Mirambo. 
 
 The celebrated chief Mirambo has given rise 
 to very mingled feelings amongst travellers into 
 Central Africa. One of them joined with the Arabs 
 in their efforts to destroy him ; the next who came 
 along made a very wide detour into an uninhabited 
 country, where his expedition was well-nigh wrecked, 
 in order to avoid Mirambo. The next traveller 
 (Lieutenant Smith and his party of the C.M.S.) 
 went a little out of his way in order to get near 
 Mirambo and communicate with him. It remained 
 for us to go straight into his presence and see and 
 
WESTWARD HO / 
 
 53 
 
 know the man. Mirambo was the more conspicuous 
 in that there are very few really important chiefs 
 with large territories in this part of Africa, and both 
 before and since our arrival much had been heard 
 and said about him. In this part of Unyamwezi 
 everything pointed more clearly to extensive and 
 active industry, to certain methods and habits in- 
 dicating a national or tribal feeling for the common 
 weal, than we had seen elsewhere. At a nearer 
 approach we heard constant reference made to the 
 chief, in loyal exclamations, and expressions of pride 
 in his service. At the Gombe, one of the chief 
 affluents of the Malagarasi River, we found the ruins 
 of a very extensive and boldly-designed public work, 
 a bridge Mirambo had thrown across the river on 
 one of his expeditions. It consisted originally of 
 two rows of about 150 forked poles, about six feet 
 apart, across which beams were laid, and those 
 covered with other poles longitudinally to form the 
 road, — a very extensive construction, but now 
 almost in ruins. From here we ascended gradually 
 for about two miles to a large stockaded village, 
 further sheltered and defended by a dense hedge of 
 the milk bush, forming a complete and picturesque 
 wall to the village. An inner stockade forms, with 
 the outer one, a complete circular passage within, 
 
54 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 and all these defences are pierced by two gateways 
 having doors of large slabs of solid wood made to 
 swing on pivots. 
 
 On the points of the poles of the inner and outer 
 stockades are seen skulls both of men and animals. 
 Outside the village, as we should say, " in the road," 
 is a little shed (the blacksmith's shop) which forms a 
 gossiping- place in peaceful times. The anvil is a 
 block of stone, the bellows carefully-adjusted goat- 
 skin bags with clay nozzles ; these are worked by a 
 little boy squatting on the ground. Close at hand 
 other natives are drawing wire ; the draw-plate is 
 fastened firmly in a post, and a rude but efficient 
 windlass of rough logs and a stout bark rope affords 
 the power. Inside the village the houses are closely 
 and irregularly clustered, and the intervening spaces 
 much crowded with tiny plots of tobacco, maize, 
 gourds, etc., except a space cleared in the centre, near 
 a semi-open shed, which is used by the men as a 
 place of assembly for business or gossip. 
 
 As we approached this village about 150 women 
 and girls came forward and surrounded and followed 
 us along the path, shouting a welcome to " Mirambo's 
 friends," and singing the praises of their great chief. 
 
 Soon after this we approached the kwikuru itself. 1 
 
 1 Chief village or capital city. 
 
WESTWARD HO ! 
 
 55 
 
 There are two distinct types of villages. Both 
 alike are collections of the round houses with conical 
 thatched roofs so common in Africa, but here in 
 Unyamwezi superior in their height and diameter 
 and detail to any other on this road ; in the one case 
 surrounded by a more or less circular fence, hedge, 
 or stockade, in the other by a square wall forming 
 at once the outer wall of the village and that of a 
 fiat-roofed, straight-sided shed, cut up by dividing 
 walls into separate compartments as residences, store- 
 houses, or cattle pens. This plan is known as a 
 tembe. Now the great kwikuru of Mirambo is a 
 tembe, the largest and finest we had seen ; and as 
 the country, so long and thickly populated, had 
 been very much denuded of tree and bush, this town, 
 on a slight elevation, was also very conspicuous. 
 On a closer inspection it looked still more imposing. 
 One longer side of the square measured 500 paces, 
 one of the shorter 300, and the interior was accessible 
 by a central door in each side. Near the centre of 
 the enclosure there was a sort of citadel formed of a 
 very large gable-ended house erected by a half-caste 
 Arab builder, and which formed the chief's state 
 residence, and several other large and small erections, 
 enclosed by a strong stockade. The rest of the 
 space was filled by the ordinary type of house. 
 
56 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Into this place the expedition entered, and was 
 allotted a clear space and several houses for its 
 accommodation. Mirambo himself received us, in a 
 straightforward and hospitable way, as distinguished 
 visitors. Our only great trouble at the place was 
 the constant fear that Mirambo would order the 
 immediate execution of any person who showed us 
 the least rudeness, which we had reason to fear did 
 once happen. More important still than his hospi- 
 tality was Mirambo's direct request for one of our 
 number to stay and live with him, to cany out the 
 work of the Mission, which was briefly explained to 
 him ; and we left with an understanding that a 
 missionary should in due time take up that duty. 
 After a week's stay with Mirambo, spent in rest, 
 refitting our caravan, and pleasant intercourse with 
 that chief and his people, we passed on. 
 
 Before doing so, however, we may well from this 
 important position just glance back along the road 
 by which we have come from the coast and review 
 its general features. We were now on the top of 
 the great annular mountain ridge (with vast but- 
 tresses) surrounding the central depression of Africa. 
 Travellers of old, approaching the centre of the 
 continent, from whichever side they have come, 
 all report the central heights, on the upper surface 
 
WESTWARD HO ! 
 
 57 
 
 of which this depression exists, as the " Mountains of 
 the Moon," and the part on which we now stand is 
 " Unyamwezi " (the country of the moon). 
 
 The approaching slopes from the coast to the 
 centre have already been described by learned 
 geographers as made up of radial ridges, and by 
 personal observation of travellers as consisting of a 
 series of concentric steps and terraces. The latter 
 was the form most observed by me, because we were 
 bound to cross all the concentric features, but not 
 necessarily to follow any one of the radial lines ; 
 as a fact, however, the slopes from coast to interior 
 are made up of both forms. From our starting-place 
 at Kirasa's, in 6° 22' S. lat, we were still in the 
 coast or maritime region. Leaving the Mukon- 
 dokwa River to our south, we gradually rise to 
 Mpwapwa along an enclosed plain. To the north 
 the lofty boundary of the Usagara Hills extends to 
 Mpwapwa ; the Rubeho forms a similar boundary, 
 but between us and them are many isolated hills, of 
 which Gombo Hill is one overlooking the lake of 
 that name. We camped by the shores of this 
 beautiful little lake. Numerous hippopotami and 
 aquatic birds aided the impression of an extensive 
 and permanent sheet of water. But in 1882 we 
 walked over the bed of that lake, dry and thirsty, 
 
58 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 not a drop of water anywhere, and every appearance 
 of a permanently dry plain : a reminder that one 
 ought to have charitable consideration for apparently 
 conflicting accounts of different travellers. 
 
 At Mpwapwa, at 3000 feet above sea level, we 
 have reached the top of the verdant sloping fringe 
 of the continent. The rocky pass of Chunyo here 
 lets us through on to the terrace of the Marenga 
 Mkali and Ugogo, 100 miles wide. It is a continuous 
 plain, excepting a small break about half-way, a 
 slightly forest-clad undulation dividing Eastern from 
 Western Ugogo. The Marenga Mkali and Eastern 
 Ugogo is a gently undulating plain, with thorny 
 vegetation and small trees, clumps of baobabs and 
 larger timber, and irregular small granite hills. 
 Western Ugogo is a flat plain crusted with a salt 
 deposit, the view bounded by a far horizon — some- 
 times dim with haze, sometimes weird with the 
 wonderful effect of the mirage or whirling spouts of 
 sand and dust, and broken only here and there by 
 groups of tall palms clothing the little oases on which 
 the villages are situated. This plain suddenly ter- 
 minates, like the sea beneath a cliff, at the foot of an 
 abrupt wall of hill, necessitating an almost precipit- 
 ous ascent of 800 feet on to the forest plateau of 
 Uyanzi, with the hills and dales and verdant undulat- 
 
1 VEST WARD HO ! 
 
 59 
 
 ing plains of Unyamwezi — once forest, but now clear 
 and cultivated, and having a comparatively bracing 
 climate. At this stage the greatest elevation was 
 reached at 4400 feet. The kwikuru of Uyui is 
 in 4 0 53' S. lat, and 3924 feet; and Mirambo's 
 kwikuru, whence we make this survey, 4° 37' 30", 
 and 3815 feet. 
 
 It is a wonderful sight to look back upon ; but 
 the forest resounds with the morning drum, and the 
 kilangosi 1 cheerily winds his horn as he steps to 
 the front to lead the march, downward now, into 
 the innermost mysteries and beauties of Africa ; and 
 we must forward towards our journey's end, yet 200 
 miles in front. 
 
 Through the remainder of Unyamwezi we were, 
 so to speak, hospitably handed from village to village 
 under the powerful friendly influence of Mirambo. 
 A few extracts from my journal will serve to describe 
 some of this portion of the march. 
 
 Tuesday, 6th August. — Got out of the village with the 
 usual excitement. Our road is over the same elevated 
 undulating plain. Passed by eleven villages. The 
 Wanyamwezi make very nice bark boxes of various 
 sizes and some ornament, and have a good notion of 
 preserving provisions in these and other receptacles. 
 I saw a bark box or bin to-day four feet in diameter. 
 
 1 Leading, experienced porter who walks in front. 
 
6o 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Sweet potatoes very abundant ; long grass, scattered 
 bushes, and stunted trees, except a few palms and 
 tamarinds ; villages stockaded. Camped at kmikuru 
 of Usange ; time on march, five hours and fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 Friday, gt/i August. — Alternate forest and open glades with 
 scattered bushes — almost level — but rough ground 
 over the hard baked mud ; footmarks of man and 
 game. The elephants and rhinoceros have trampled 
 the soft mud into honeycomb shape, afterwards baked 
 by the sun. Passed the large stockaded kwikuru 
 of Ugala, with skulls on poles. These large villages 
 have mostly a tall hedge of the milk bush, and clumps 
 of plantations forming a barrier outside the stockade 
 of poles ; the intervening space being used as gardens, 
 and often consisting of a tangled and overgrown mass 
 of ground-nuts, sweet potatoes, yams, tomatoes, pump- 
 kins, etc., which, together with the steam from 
 numerous small standing waters, render the neighbour- 
 hood anything but salubrious. Lions are numerous. 
 Six hours and twenty minutes on march. Troubled at 
 night by swarms of mosquitoes. 
 
 Saturday, \oth August. — Passed through thin forest and 
 many palm trees to the village of Kanyepo, after 
 which we descended slightly and waded for two miles 
 ankle-deep, and sometimes knee-deep in water. It is 
 a great overflow from the Malagarasi River. The 
 distinct and permanent water- marks upon every tree 
 and bush form a perfectly straight line as viewed in 
 the distance ; this line is also continued most distinctly 
 round many little hillocks which in the rains are islets. 
 As we wade along here, the water-mark is a clear foot 
 above my head ; and this level extends away to the 
 north to the Malagarasi, the line of verdure bordering 
 which is now clearly discernible. 
 
WESTWARD HO ! 
 
 6i 
 
 A few more days brought us to the River 
 Malagarasi, one of the chief obstacles on the march. 
 I thus described the crossing in my journal, written 
 on the spot : 
 
 A winding and descending road through little bogs, over 
 shoulders of small, irregular hills, past several ruined 
 villages, and so through more hills and broken ground, 
 down to the river, which from here looks like a vast 
 marsh. A descending path of a quarter of a mile 
 brings us right into the marsh, which here borders the 
 river on either side ; from edge to edge, including- the 
 river, is three- cjuarters of a mile. The deep water 
 where we crossed was divided in two by a central 
 patch of mud -bank, over which the canoes had to be 
 dragged ; only these two central deeps are at all clear 
 of the long tangled rope-like grass with which the rest 
 of the river is covered, and to a great extent masked. 
 We had to wade thigh -deep for 500 or 600 yards 
 through this marsh in order to reach a little hillock or 
 island which was made the starting-point for the boats. 
 The passage of the river by our caravan occupied five 
 hours and half, there being about fourteen bark canoes, 
 18 feet long by 18 inches beam, and three dug-outs, 
 rather shorter, broader, and decidedly more sub- 
 stantial. We paid each canoe-man for every passage 
 he made, besides the hongo we had given the chief for 
 permission to cross. In this paying of fares I expended 
 48 yards of calico, and about 6 pounds of beads. It 
 was nearly 3 p.m. when, all the men and loads having 
 been got off, I myself embarked ; meantime a canoe 
 arrived back bearing for me a dish of stewed fowl and 
 potatoes, which Mr. Thomson had considerately for- 
 warded from the other side. 
 
62 
 
 TAXGANYIKA 
 
 I found our camp to be in lat. 5° 5' 27", two miles 
 north of the place where Burton and Speke and Cameron 
 crossed ; but still the crossing was from " Ngaga " to 
 " Mpete," these being the names of the districts on the 
 east and west banks respectively. 
 
 Six more days through Uvinza and Ukaranga, 
 countries mostly luxuriant and then fairly populated, 
 brought us to the outskirts of Ujiji. The arrival at 
 that place is thus described in my journal, written at 
 the time : 
 
 Friday, i^d August 1878. — Everybody, myself included, 
 in a great hurry to get to Ujiji ; just before daybreak, 
 crossing the pretty little brook which winds round the 
 broken bamboo hills . . . and then along through scat- 
 tered forest . . . we slightly ascend till . . . we are 
 on top of a ridge, and begin to descend towards the 
 winding valley through which the Ruiche flows. From 
 here we get the first view of Tanganyika. . . . From 
 where I stood the valley was hidden by the tree-tops 
 beneath me, so that it looked like a great gradual 
 descent of tree-tops right to the lake. . . . We passed 
 over two smaller hills in descending, and then, instead 
 of skirting across the valley straight to the ridge of 
 hills overlooking Ujiji, . . . we made a long detour 
 to avoid the bog, . . . eventually crossing the river at 
 eight and a quarter miles on route, . . . another 
 small stream, and two small but deep pools, to the 
 Ujiji gardens : a dense plantation of plantains, palms, 
 beans, and little open gardens of maize and potatoes. 
 ... As we neared Ujiji the open descent, bare of 
 trees, showed off the whole caravan to the best advan- 
 
WESTWARD HO ! 
 
 63 
 
 tage at a glance ; and never in my life have I seen a 
 procession which has given me such joy and pleasure. 
 Yonder is Ujiji, towards which we have so long marched 
 and waded, and here in due order are our goods 
 intact and ourselves in excellent health — 225 men in 
 single file, each, save the head man, with his load on 
 head or shoulder. In front walks the portly and 
 consequential Songoro, bearing the Union Jack with 
 white border, then the porters' kilangosi [leading and 
 senior guide and porter], with lofty head-dress of 
 nodding ostrich plumes, perseveringly working his legs 
 to give due sound to the iron bells hung round his 
 knees ; then come box, and bag, and bundle, tents, 
 pots, and kettles, and little bundles of the porters' 
 personal effects. In the centre of the procession Juma 
 Mackay displays on a long bamboo the dove of peace 
 with olive-branch. The head man Juma Nasibu and 
 his mate Sudi close the rear with the English ensign. 
 As we near the town the people run to look ; it is a great 
 day for them (and, indeed, it is for us). . . . We 
 entered the town and camped in the gardens of Bwana 
 Musa — Praise God. 
 
 Another of the party wrote : " We arrived here 
 on Friday 23d, all in good health and strength. 
 Through God's blessing we have performed one of 
 the quickest and most prosperous journeys which 
 have been done to Ujiji. We were just seventy- 
 three days from Mpwapwa ; we have lost none of our 
 goods, and we have had few of those troubles which 
 other travellers seem to have had." 
 
 And assured we were that day that God had 
 
64 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 been with us, and that in due time He would give 
 us the land to possess and bring into it, in His 
 name, the enlightenment and purifying influence of 
 His glorious Gospel. " Only be thou strong and 
 very courageous." 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 U J I J I 
 
 " And the whole city was filled with confusion . . . some cried 
 one thing and some another." 
 
 "Be not afraid, but speak, and hold not thy peace, for I am with 
 thee, and no man shall set on thee to hurt thee, for I have much people 
 in this city. 
 
 And they dwelt two whole years in their own hired house, and 
 received all that came unto them, preaching the kingdom of God, and 
 teaching those things which concern the Lord Jesus Christ, with all 
 confidence, no man forbidding them." 
 
 F 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 UJIJI 
 
 1878-1880 
 
 ALTHOUGH one of our number still remained 
 behind, the Mission might now be said to 
 have arrived at its destination. 
 
 The events of the succeeding two years may 
 be termed the consummation of its purpose, being 
 indeed a sort of shaking down into its place in the 
 country, eventuating in the establishment of three 
 stations in carefully selected localities, and the rein- 
 forcement of its personnel to working strength. 
 
 The progress of the Mission into the country 
 had not been achieved without a reduction of its 
 numbers, and long-continued labour and hardship. 
 And in its establishment the faith and endurance 
 both of its workers and supporters were also to be 
 severely tried. 
 
 Ujiji, it should be remembered, is really the 
 name of a large tribal territory, bordered west and 
 
68 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 south by the Tanganyika Lake, north by Urundi, and 
 east by Uhha and the River Ruiche, and occupying 
 a gap in the mountain barrier of the lake, as well 
 as a part of the elevated country itself. 
 
 It is divided into about thirty-five districts, or 
 counties, each with its chief (niteko), answerable 
 to a smaller council of some of their leading ones 
 ( tnutwali ), and to the Sultan or head chief 
 {vigassa), who, however, during our experience, 
 being a minor, was a mere puppet. The town 
 commonly known as Ujiji straggles far into two of 
 these small counties, Ugoy and Kawele, as London 
 spreads into Middlesex and Surrey. But from a 
 distance (although Ugoy is sometimes used, and 
 still more rarely Kawele) the term Ujiji generally 
 means the big town. 
 
 The traveller would naturally expect on arriving 
 at Ujiji to look to the westward over the lake ; but 
 the lake view is due south, where on a clear day 
 Capes Kabogo and Kungwe may both be seen, and 
 sometimes even the mountains of Marungu. From 
 the southern-looking beach the low part of Ujiji 
 stretches in undulating hill and plain to the foot of 
 the mountains, north about six miles. East, the gap 
 is just visible across the Ruiche River, through which 
 Ujiji is reached from that direction. South-east, the 
 
ujiji 
 
 69 
 
 shore of the lake, in a long vista of capes and bays, 
 disappears in the dim distance. Westward, if clear, 
 the sharp profile of Bangwe Island, the south-west 
 promontory of Ujiji, brings into sight the lofty table- 
 land of Goma, forty miles away on the western shore 
 of the lake. 
 
 The big town occupies a central position on this 
 southern -facing shore, and numerous smaller villages 
 are dotted both along the coast and here and there 
 over the low country. On the hills the real native 
 settlements are still more numerous and rich in cattle. 
 
 Ujiji for over half a century at least had been the 
 terminal depot for those Oriental colonists, travellers, 
 and merchants (chiefly Arabs), who have so long 
 exploited for us the ivory of these regions, and from 
 whom chiefly we have information and assistance 
 enabling us to enter them. From this point their 
 expeditions and their influence extended farther 
 afield, and now their terminal depot is Nyangwe and 
 Kasongo in Manyuema, and Ujiji has become rather 
 a station on the road to those places than a position 
 of independent importance. For variety of people, 
 languages, and customs, Ujiji is quite a little Egypt. 
 Representatives of all the tribes come to it for trade 
 and diplomatic purposes. The Arabs have settled 
 down upon it, and, although nominally still native 
 
7° 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 territory under the rule of its local chiefs, the Arabs 
 practically rule, and the chiefs are puppets in their 
 hands. By Arabs, of course, I mean all those — pure 
 Orientals, Waswahili, Beloochis, and half-castes of 
 every shade- — who have come there as civilised people 
 from a distance. The natives recognise the fact that 
 the Arabs are a solid protection against native foes, 
 and secure them the benefits of trade, improvement 
 and extension of arts and industries ; and this 
 renders bearable the frequent injustice and disturb- 
 ance they suffer at the hands of the lower class and 
 slaves of these foreigners. 
 
 Thirty or forty large flat -roofed Arab houses 
 {tenibcs), mostly hollow squares with massive walls 
 and broad verandahs, form the principal feature of the 
 town, and, with erections of every kind between that 
 and the little grass bee -hive hut, — very irregularly 
 placed amidst straggling oil -palms, bananas, and 
 fruit-gardens, — make up the metropolis of Ujiji A 
 few winding tracks between these, worn down by 
 common consent and use in the direction of greatest 
 general convenience, form the streets or roads, mostly 
 converging eventually upon the market-place. The 
 market is essentially a native institution, and as such 
 may be seen here and there over the whole territory of 
 Ujiji and Urundi. But here in the town it is the meet- 
 
vjiji 
 
 71 
 
 ing-place of all the various classes. The real native 
 Mjiji from the hills brings his goats and produce ; 
 the poor Mswahili builds a little booth of palm 
 leaves, and investing all his capital in a goat, dis- 
 plays his joints and penny lots of meat, warranted as 
 being killed in true Mohammedan fashion. His wife 
 may be close at hand with a jar of palm oil, which 
 she retails in tiny gourd measures for cooking or 
 lighting ; towards the cool of the evening she lights 
 a little fire under the jar to keep the oil liquid. 
 Equally minute lots of salt, tobacco, fish, and 
 vegetables enable the poor man to give variety to 
 his fare, and afford facility for barter in every direc- 
 tion. Nor are the Arabs themselves above sending 
 a slave woman to the market to retail fruits and 
 vegetables from their gardens. 
 
 Here is a gaily-clothed Arab slave with bright- 
 coloured cloths and a few yards of calico ; he takes 
 the place of money-changer, selling his cloth for the 
 beads (which form the currency) accumulated by the 
 retailer, or converting the purchaser's cloth into 
 beads. The amount of cloth in the town, and what 
 comes on the market in the morning, decides the 
 exchange for the day, on which all transactions are 
 based. The standard is the doti of satini (four 
 yards of common Manchester calico), for which nine 
 
72 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 to eleven bunches of ten strings of beads, called a 
 /undo, was the exchange in 1878. In 1888 this 
 was reduced to three or four bunches. The arrival 
 of a caravan with cloth gives scope for endless finan- 
 cial scares and schemes, while the visitors who come 
 to town influence both the price and supply of 
 everything. A few Waswahili tradesmen have come 
 from Zanzibar ; one is quite prosperous as a carpen- 
 ter, and may be seen superintending his journeymen 
 and apprentices making doors and windows out of 
 the beautiful and durable minifiga (African teak), 
 or patching up on the beach some of the venerable 
 and grotesque-looking craft of the Arab merchants. 
 One is a maker of sandals and belts and pouches, 
 and is always busy. Another, as a gunsmith, is 
 highly favoured in the personal service of an Arab. 
 There are beggars ; there are itinerant musicians 
 and singers. Fishermen bring their loaded baskets 
 from the lake ; women bring their fowls and eggs 
 and butter to market from the country. 
 
 Here and there amongst the natives is one who 
 has been to the coast ; he is like a countryman in one 
 of our more obscure villages who has been to London. 
 Here and there amongst the Arabs there is one who 
 has lived at Zanzibar, or who has been to Muscat, 
 and is a weighty man in council in consequence. 
 
ujiji 
 
 73 
 
 But to the chief part of this people the outer world 
 has all the mystery as to its shape and character, all 
 the unlimited possibilities that it had for us in the 
 Middle Ages. With no revelation of God's love, 
 their spiritual natures are yet groping for light 
 amongst fetiches and so-called magic rites — grovel- 
 ling before every display of Divine power as a 
 spiritual influence capable of evil towards them — 
 lying in darkness. And over all that other cloud of 
 blackness and terror, slavery and the slave-trade, 
 perpetuates their ignorance and their barbarity, and 
 prevents advance in any direction towards the 
 higher and the better. That gaily-dressed man with 
 riches of cloth for exchange is a slave ; and the poor 
 woman who has brought her basket of meal into 
 market to sell looks up to him in awe and envy 
 as she walks past with her companion who carries 
 her wares and is her slave. This party of naked 
 savages just landing are half of them slaves, who 
 will shortly be sold by the others ; and a chance 
 disturbance in the market, or some crisis in political 
 affairs, and they themselves may become slaves too. 
 At one point you may see a gang of poor creatures 
 (newly captive) chained together in their misery ; 
 at another, a party of poorly -clad native porters 
 carrying loads, and led by an amply -dressed and 
 
74 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 armed superior, who is, however, a slave, while they 
 are free hired labourers. A most complicated 
 system, the details of which require years to under- 
 stand ; but the terrible degradation, misery, and death 
 consequent upon the fearful traffic are plain enough. 
 
 If in any part of this earth there is such darkness 
 of life and thought, such oppression of man by his 
 fellow- man, such naturally promising and enterpris- 
 ing people so shut out from the benefits of civilisa- 
 tion, so beclouded in their spiritual view as to 
 specially appeal to the efforts of Christian philan- 
 thropy, here it is, and here they are, in Ujiji town 
 — " the true heathen." 
 
 No wonder that our missionary brethren, coming 
 into this motley and wondering community, should 
 be the subjects alternately of irritation, wonder, and 
 suspicion, which language, if they had it, could scarce 
 allay — which could only be lived down by them, the 
 observed of all observers, by Christian life and action. 
 But for many a long day we could scarce expect to 
 do better than on the day of our arrival, when, by the 
 very influence of our presence, the Ujiji slave-market 
 zuas closed. I do not mean that the slave-trade was 
 stopped, but a conscience was created in the matter 
 which rendered the trade illicit while we were there. 
 
 The Arabs, as the actual leaders of this strange 
 
UJU1 
 
 75 
 
 community, were the first to have dealings with us. 
 To them as such, and as having letters of introduc- 
 tion to them from the Sultan of Zanzibar, and 
 having already some knowledge of a language they 
 understood, we also addressed ourselves. There has 
 always been something of a fellow-feeling between 
 Arab and European meeting in these parts of 
 Africa as " civilised " amongst the " heathen." 
 
 Having a personal introduction to one of these, 
 Moosa, from Said- bin -Salim, the deposed governor 
 of Unyanyembe whom we had met at Uyui, he 
 invited us temporarily to camp in his garden, a wide 
 domain of banana groves, oil-palms, and fruit-trees 
 surrounding his house. Scarcely were the tents 
 pitched when messengers began to arrive from the 
 principal Arab houses bearing numerous trays of 
 dishes with all kinds of cooked food, a most appetis- 
 ing display to travellers from the bush. Friendly 
 greetings came from all, and numerous offers of 
 unoccupied houses, but Moosa told us his friend had 
 put us " on his head," and he expected us to accept 
 his hospitality for a time. Three days after our 
 arrival there was a great assembly of all the civilised 
 people. We attended, our letters were read, and 
 we explained as far as we could our purpose in com- 
 ing into the country. To this the Arabs unitedly 
 
7 6 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 replied, " that the Sultan in his introductory letter 
 had said nothing about our staying in the country ; 
 that we, having been placed ' upon their heads ' by 
 the Sultan, they could not think of our living for the 
 present anywhere out of the town of Ujiji, where we 
 should be beyond their protective influence ; and, on 
 the other hand, that, fearing what the Sultan might 
 say to such proceedings, they could not risk offend- 
 ing him (not yet knowing what we might be going 
 to do) by allowing us to acquire a possession in the 
 country, either ashore or afloat, until they heard 
 further from him. We must therefore write to 
 Zanzibar, and they would do the same, to hear what 
 the Sultan might say about us ; and until that time 
 we could purchase neither house nor boat, but were 
 at perfect liberty to secure the temporary use of any 
 house or boat in the place ; and further, for the same 
 reason, we must not build either, but could go to and 
 fro on the lake and on shore whither we would." 
 
 In fact, in their ignorance they suspected that 
 after all we were something of the nature of Govern- 
 ment representatives inserting the thin end of the 
 wedge for the abolition of the slave-trade and 
 European annexation. 
 
 But few of them were from the coast, or under- 
 stood much of international affairs — " far away," as 
 
ujiji 
 
 77 
 
 they said, from their Sultan, when he was quoted to 
 them, they were, although professing great loyalty, 
 not in present fear of him. 
 
 Irritating, however, as this position was to us, it 
 did not really prove much hindrance to the pro- 
 gress of the Mission ; for we were able to move on to 
 other stations when we were prepared to do so, and 
 the two years spent at Ujiji resulted in a friendly 
 acquaintance with the natives far and wide — as ex- 
 tensive, perhaps, as if no hindrance had been placed 
 in our way. In the course of years the restrictions 
 themselves disappeared as suspicion was allayed. 
 
 Individually, the Arabs continued as friendly and 
 as hospitable as ever ; indeed, the rival attentions 
 and intrigues of the different parties and individuals 
 in the endeavour of each one to make us believe that 
 he was our special friend were very embarrassing 
 and difficult to deal with. 
 
 One of these Arabs, Nassour-bin-Cassim, was 
 just then finishing a large tembc, and this we secured 
 on hire as soon as it should be finished. It was 
 situated in the highest part, and on the outer verge 
 of the town, and was certainly the best in the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 While the house was being completed a tem- 
 porary enclosure was made of a quantity of poles 
 
78 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 (some of the builder's materials), and this, partly 
 roofed over with grass, forming a shade for the tents, 
 made a temporary and indeed very pleasant habita- 
 tion as long as the rain held off. In like manner, 
 in accordance with our circumstances, a solid log 
 canoe, built upon in Arab fashion, was hired for a 
 year from Said-bin-Habib. In a little over a week 
 from our arrival we were already engaged in the 
 work of settling down : one making furniture and 
 fittings for the house, one repairing and fitting up 
 the boat, and one studying the language and mak- 
 ing the acquaintance of our numerous visitors. 
 
 Mr. Thomson had never fully recovered his 
 wonted strength and energy since his serious illness 
 at Kirasa and Mpwapwa, but he was thought to be 
 recovering, and indeed during the latter part of the 
 journey, and on arrival at Ujiji, had taken a leading 
 part in all affairs of the Mission. Three weeks after 
 the arrival at Ujiji, however, he became again very 
 ill : a very few premonitory symptoms, and then a 
 fit of an apoplectic nature laid him quite insensible. 
 Consciousness returned after an interval, but after 
 another fit he passed away on Sunday, 2 2d Septem- 
 ber. He had lived to prove the ability, devotedness, 
 and self-denial which enabled him to carry out his 
 important duties, which had carried him forward, 
 
ujiji 
 
 79 
 
 fearless of all perils, and made him faithful unto 
 death. 
 
 The loss of its senior member, of one out of three 
 of its present representatives at Ujiji, was a severe 
 one to the Mission. What the effect of that loss 
 would be on the distant representatives was perhaps 
 anxiously wondered, alike by the two at Ujiji, the 
 one yet in peril and anxiety on the road, and, on 
 their part, in regard to us, by the directors and 
 supporters at home. In due time we each became 
 aware of the independent testimony and determina- 
 tion of the others, which, differing in words, were 
 one in sentiment, as expressed in a resolution of the 
 board of directors, that in it they found a renewed 
 call to the work, and an appeal for filling up the 
 vacancy. 
 
 Increasing anxiety had long been felt for the 
 safety and progress of Mr. Dodgshun. One of the 
 first things attended to at Ujiji was the establish- 
 ment of a means of communication. From time to 
 time, while working with the waggons, and on the 
 subsequent quicker march, certain of the smartest of 
 our men had had some training in carrying letters. 
 The method thus started had gradually become 
 " custom," which is everything in Africa ; and as the 
 specially long run between the coast and Ujiji was 
 
8o 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 required for the first time towards their home, a few 
 volunteers were easily obtained. The letters so de- 
 spatched reached London in seventy-eight days, and 
 were the commencement of a splendid mail system, 
 which (except for a few intervals in time of war) has 
 been kept up ever since. By this means we heard 
 at intervals of the progress of Mr. Dodgshun ; but 
 between times fearfully garbled rumours gave great 
 cause for anxiety. 
 
 On 19th October the " English Mission - House " 
 was formally taken possession of. On 25th Novem- 
 ber the hired boat, now fitted with sails, rigging, and 
 accommodation in something more like English 
 fashion, and named the Calabash, was launched into 
 the lake, and her efficiency tried in a trial-trip round 
 to Kigoma Bay, and another trip out into the lake as 
 far as Cape Kabogo. 
 
 A better acquaintance with the language, and 
 increasing intercourse both with the people of Ujiji 
 and many others, were fast being obtained. 
 
 On 24th January 1879 the first detachment of 
 Roman Catholic missionaries from Algiers arrived at 
 Ujiji and took up temporary quarters there. 
 
 On 2 1st February another voyage along the east 
 coast gave us further acquaintance with that shore 
 and its navigation, as well as a knowledge of some 
 
UJIJI 
 
 Si 
 
 of its peoples, and soon afterwards several deputa- 
 tions from the head chief of Ujiji enabled us to deal 
 more personally with those natives without the inter- 
 vention of the Arabs. 
 
 A few extracts from a daily journal at Ujiji serve 
 to indicate the multifarious duties and aspects of life 
 there during this time of living out a character for 
 the Mission : 
 
 Monday. — Unwell, bad head since yesterday ; working at 
 boat in the morning. In the evening, put in seeds of 
 turnip, cabbage, celery, etc. 
 
 Tuesday. — Hot and misty ; both unwell ; did a little work 
 at the boat in the morning ; men fetching wood, and 
 gardening. Muinyi Heri sent us a basket of onions ; 
 very hot ; shot a hyena at night just in the act of 
 seizing one of our goats. 
 
 Wednesday. — Very ill all day with bilious fever and racking- 
 headache ; compelled to put off departure of mail till 
 Friday morning. 
 
 Sunday. — A day of quiet rest — the enjoyment of being in 
 a house again is immense — the capabilities for quiet 
 reading and prayer much extended. The rain came 
 down in torrents to-day ; we got into the house just in 
 time. 
 
 Monday. — Cut out the mainsail for Calabash, and did a 
 little sewing . . . went to Muinyi Heri and doctored 
 him for fever . . . dressed our poor native patient's 
 stump (a hand amputated after gun explosion). 
 
 Friday, 1st November. — Up early and started off with 
 Juma and two others, and an outfit in the shape of a 
 calabash of water, cooked fowl, and bread, a tin panni- 
 G 
 
82 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 kin, and a small saucepan ; kept up a good round pace 
 all the way to Kigoma, where a little canoe served as 
 ferry across to the little flat oval island Ruanza, on 
 which are the houses of Muinyi Akida (an Waswahili 
 or half-caste, or "coast" Arab) and the huts of his 
 numerous slaves. It looks very miserable just now, 
 all the ruins of old huts and the numerous rubbish- 
 heaps being wet with rain. I was bade " draw near '' 
 to a very mean little house, but there was a good clean 
 mat in the verandah. Presently the great man him- 
 self appeared, coming out of the grass-fenced enclosure 
 hard by; found he was suffering from a very bad eye. 
 After the usual salutations he told me that Dr. Living- 
 stone had once given him some medicine that made 
 his eye quite well ; promised him to make medicine 
 for it. He said I was quite welcome to bring my boat 
 to his place, which certainly is the most snug shelter 
 anywhere near Ujiji. I then asked him for a guide to 
 Bang we. 
 
 Akida told me that there was a head man at Bangwe, 
 one Mtagle (mistaken then for mteko, the designation 
 for local petty chief), but that he was put there by him, 
 Akida, for did not Bangwe and its island " all belong 
 to him " ? And now a great fat sheep was unwillingly 
 brought before me : I gave appropriate thanks, and 
 prepared to depart. The big sheep proved refractory 7 , 
 and had to be secured with rope ; at last we got him 
 into the ferry canoe, and after bidding adieu to Muinyi 
 Akida, who came down to see me off, we launched out. 
 But when about half over, the sheep jumped over- 
 board, causing great excitement on both shores ; but 
 we landed him safely, and sent him home under special 
 escort, while I proceeded to Bangwe. Crossing over 
 Bangwe peninsula, we found Mtagle in one of the huts 
 of his village. It began to rain sharply, and we were 
 
ujiji 
 
 83 
 
 invited inside. The interior aspect was far from pleas- 
 ing. However, the embers were blown into a little 
 blaze, and I found quite a lot of women and children 
 beside our host. I took the opportunity of having 
 breakfast ; so one of my men made coffee in the little 
 saucepan, and with bread and cold fowl I thoroughly 
 enjoyed the repast. When the rain ceased our friend 
 gave me a guide, who, from a hill near at hand, pointed 
 out to me and named the leading features of the 
 country there to be observed. Returning to the hut, 
 Mtagle gave me a bunch of bananas, and pointed out 
 a sheep which he said he should bring with him when 
 he came to see me soon. We then returned by the 
 beach to Ujiji. 
 
 This chief of Bangwe I delight to think of as 
 my friend. A man of fine physique and a noble 
 countenance, of gentle yet manly aspect — he was ever 
 ready to assist us. At the launch of the Calabash, 
 and again years after at the launch of the Morning 
 Star, he marched into Ujiji with the men of his 
 village to lend a helping hand. As time after time, 
 under his own fig tree (the village talking- place), and 
 in the mission-house, he has drunk in gladly all the 
 words I could give him of God and his love to us, 
 I have rejoiced with trembling that the way is open 
 and the people are ready, and we only are behind in 
 faith, in ability, and perseverance. 
 
 Saturday. — The little canoe given us by Said-bin-Habib 
 is cut out of a solid log like all the canoes here 
 
84 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 — 25 feet long. To-day I had it sawn into two pieces : 
 one, 14 feet long, is to make our dingy; of the short 
 piece we can either make a bath, or probably Mr. 
 Dodgshun will like to make a little boat for himself 
 of it. 
 
 Monday. — Friendly messengers from Akida and Mtagle, 
 whom I visited the other day, bringing presents ; had 
 a nice talk with them. 
 
 Friday. — A gang of Nassour's (our landlord) women in 
 charge of their "mamma" clearing out the long un- 
 roofed room ready for the builders. 
 
 Monday, — Had a visit from Muinyi Heri and Abe 
 (the leading half-caste colonist and the local native 
 chief), and arranged with them for my visit to the 
 head chief. 
 
 Friday. — Much better to - day ; got through a lot of 
 work, but while working at the boat felt the heat so 
 much that I had to get a man to hold an umbrella 
 over my head while I put the last few nails in. 
 
 Monday. — Evening, a grand row between Nassours men 
 and our own — nothing could be proved. Two of 
 Nassour's men received club blows, also Maktub, 
 our postman. Farajalla slightly wounded with a 
 bullet ; and Sulieman, the other postman, declared 
 that part of his moustache was taken off by 
 another shot at close quarters. Nassour came to 
 me in the dark, with his friend Sali, and they stuck 
 their spears defiantly in the ground close to me. I 
 told them, however, the whole affair must be settled by 
 the Wali (the chief authority) ; but having failed to 
 scare me, and not caring for the vexation of a public 
 inquiry, it was amicably arranged by their coming in 
 and drinking coffee. 
 
 Monday. — Another deputation from the head chief — come 
 "to hear our own words/' — said they were willing 
 
UJIJI 
 
 85 
 
 to give us a place to build ; and although -willing to 
 send their children to be taught, they could not agree 
 to give up their slaves to us ! 
 
 The half-caste colonists, amongst other slander, 
 had told them we should take their slaves away from 
 them. And the natives everywhere would oppose 
 this view of the abolition of " slavery," though nearly 
 everywhere they would be willing and glad to secure 
 that peace which would prevent the " slave-trade." 
 
 Abe's wife also called with an old lady companion, 
 Said-bin-Habib's chief housekeeper. They were de- 
 lighted to examine everything, and after looking over 
 the medicine chest, the old lady, after some whispering 
 with her companion, looked most pathetically at me 
 and said : " Sir, do give me a pill ! — you gave her one 
 the other day." 
 
 Thursday. — There is a sort of by-play going on between 
 us and the council of Arabs by means of my man 
 Farajalla : sounding him as to our intentions, and in- 
 quiring of all our doings, etc. 
 
 It is good for us in our relations both with 
 
 Arabs and natives that we have these intelligent 
 
 Zanzibaris as helpers. Knowing our private lives 
 
 and all our doings, spies in the camp in this way 
 
 have had only to report that which has helped to 
 
 disarm suspicion. 
 
 I took a walk in the afternoon to the village of 
 Gitwalo. I found a man weaving a cotton cloth. His 
 method and work were far superior to what I saw before, 
 
86 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 and the lath to drive home the weft was worked by 
 two people: himself and his son. He had been working 
 two days, and he expected to finish it in two more. I 
 worked a few throws of the shuttle with him, at which 
 he was pleased. As I walked through a cassava plot 
 on my way home, six little wagtails were holding a 
 noisy conference, fluttering and twittering. As I 
 approached and stood still about three yards from them, 
 they ranged themselves in a semicircle and sang to 
 me most sweetly. When I passed away they returned 
 to their business. The natives capture other little 
 birds, but these wagtails are everywhere safe : I don't 
 know why, but they are sweet little things, with their 
 beautiful song. 
 
 Friday. — Ujiji is crowded with Wamanyuema immigrants 
 — each party attached to some Arab. At present 
 this plan is worse than slavery, for the injur}- and 
 death of any men is not a loss to their employers, and 
 they get fearfully ill-treated. M. Debaize (a French 
 traveller) is now obtaining 200 of these Wamanyuema. 
 Notwithstanding risks and hard treatment, they are 
 anxious to come to Ujiji for employment. 
 
 Saturday. — At 9 o'clock Mohammed-bin-Alfan's servants 
 arrived to conduct us to his house, where he had 
 specially invited us to breakfast and to inspect the 
 boat he is building. We found an excellent repast 
 awaiting us, with a table and stools specially made for 
 the occasion. Then the model was brought in and 
 discussed, and finally an inspection of the boat itself — 
 a great advance on anything before done here. 
 
 This Arab Mohammed -bin- Alfan was from the 
 first most polite and hospitable to us. He is an 
 educated and liberal-minded man, free from many of 
 
87 
 
 the prejudices of the half-castes and others who have 
 not " seen the world." He valued highly a few hints 
 about boat -building and other industrial work in 
 which he showed much enterprise, as well as medical 
 help to himself and his people. At one of the most 
 critical times of our Ujiji experiences, related farther 
 on, he rendered us good help ; and he has since, in 
 even more substantial manner, proved his friendship 
 by restraining the irritation and prejudice against 
 Europeans (during the recent troubles at the coast) 
 of the Ujiji community. 
 
 Thursday. — About 8.30 A.M. Debaize made a start, and 
 these 200 Wamanyuema and 150 Zanzibaris trooped 
 out of our house in single file, a motley crowd. 
 Some carried miserable trade guns, others spears, 
 tomahawks, clubs, or, wanting other weapons, a sharp- 
 pointed staff or huge porridge -stick ; four or five 
 carried small tusks of ivory ; and each one some small 
 matter, as a mat, a pot, or a calabash. One man's 
 sole outfit for the march was a huge sweet potato, 
 which he had prudently roasted before starting, and 
 now carried in his hand. . . . 
 
 As I sit in the window at evening writing this, the lake 
 before me looks beautiful. At a glance I can take in the 
 countries of Ukaranga, Ukawendi, the distant Uguha, 
 and the tall mountain barrier of Goma ; the Capes Ka- 
 bogo and Kungwe, and Cape Kitanga, near the islands, 
 their tops just lifted into view by the mirage. Close at 
 hand, the little bay separating Kasimbo from Kawele, 
 with large canoes drawn up on the shore, the slopes 
 
88 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 on either side of the bay covered with maize fields, 
 scattered oil -palm trees, and bananas, with rice in the 
 lower parts. Bright little lizards are catching flies in 
 the verandah outside. Our pomegranate trees are alive 
 with those tiny birds which in cages at home you may 
 see huddled together to keep themselves warm ; here 
 they are at home, trim and lively. Besides these there is 
 quite a chorus of little songsters of many and pleasing 
 notes ; and, along the path in front, the Wajiji pass 
 actively to and fro to the market, each man with his long 
 spear. 
 
 Tuesday. — Sambo told us his story. He says his real 
 father was Chungu, a chief near Bangweolo. When 
 he was very young a white man passed his village, 
 which was on the Lopoposi River. The white man 
 had a donkey, and wore a large hat like what Sambo 
 sees in our house. Bangweolo was a big water near 
 his home ; he never went there, but remembers, when 
 he was on his mother's back, her pointing it out to 
 him in the distance. One day he went to pick up fire- 
 wood for his mother. When he had finished he went 
 to dig some potatoes from the garden ; while at this 
 some natives from another village carried him off and 
 sold him to some passing Wangwana (half-castes or 
 civilised Africans) for cloth. They took him to their 
 camp, where there were many slaves and much ivory 
 and copper (which he described correctly). As they 
 went on their journey the slaves were fastened with 
 chains, but he was fastened by himself with cord. He 
 says they took "a year" to reach Unyanyembe, pass- 
 ing Tanganyika on the road, and there he became the 
 property of Sheik Nassib, who, when Mr. Dodgshun 
 passed by, gave the boy to him. 
 
 The old story of Joseph's brethren selling him to 
 
89 
 
 the Ishmaelites — the natives selling one another to 
 passing strangers. 
 
 Sunday. — A slave of Muinyi Heri's came to us for treat- 
 ment of his hand. On examination we found that an 
 iron ring and spike had been forcibly clamped round 
 his wrist, and that the whole hand was now mortified. 
 Sent to Msalim (son of Muinyi Heri) to say that the 
 man's hand must be amputated ; and he said, " Do so, 
 if the man is willing." Put the man under chloroform 
 accordingly, and amputated about 4 inches from elbow 
 — apparently a successful operation, and good stump. 
 The man says the iron has been on for two months ; 
 that the spike was drawn out of the log into which it 
 had been driven last Ramathan ; that since then he 
 has been loose, but tried in vain to get the iron off. 
 
 Wednesday. — Two distinct shocks of earthquake to-day : 
 the first at 5.30 p.m., and the second and lesser shock 
 about 6. The first shock lasted about four minutes, and 
 quite shook the house ; the roof beams creaking omin- 
 ously, and everybody going outside, from whence the 
 whole house could be seen to tremble. . . . The white 
 ants send out new colonies (like bees) during the rains. 
 They issue from a special back entrance in their nests 
 or burrows, opened out for their exit, and have long 
 loose wings to get away with. Other creatures seem 
 to know when they are due, and gather round the 
 entrance to devour them. Snakes, frogs, fowls 
 snap them up, as, crowding out, they tumble over 
 dazed in the bright light. Those that rise on the wing 
 are hunted by birds. Large hawks hover overhead 
 and snap up the dainty morsels one by one, and the 
 fowls stalk round on tip -toe after them in ludicrous 
 fashion. A short flight and they are done, and, sprawl- 
 ing on the ground, become quite unmanageable. But 
 
90 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 there is a remedy : planting his hind feet firmly on the 
 draggling wings and pressing them to the ground, the 
 ant gives his body a surge forward and is free. Xo 
 more to soar aloft, he goes below as soon as possible. 
 The general excitement gives notice to others : men, 
 women, and children run with little brooms and sweep 
 up baskets full of the savoury morsels as they come 
 out of the hole. After a while the stampede is over, 
 all is quiet, and the earth for half a mile round is 
 speckled with the discarded wings. 
 
 Tuesday. — Went to Kigoma in early morning as ar- 
 ranged ; passed on to Mbogo's village, quite a mart 
 just now, with Mirambo's trading-party and numerous 
 Arabs' men come here to sell their ivory. . . . About 
 thirty of the elders, with Mbogo at their head (all 
 Wajiji chiefs), went round the corner and held a meet- 
 ing, to which, after an interval, I was requested to come. 
 On getting seated in the circle, I was told they had 
 decided to give me the land for house and garden. 
 . . . Adjourned to the land in question, followed by a 
 crowd. Mbogo's brother, as spokesman, cut a little 
 leafy branch, stood on a hillock waving his hand as he 
 indicated the boundaries and propounded the title, 
 calling on all present to witness the arrangement, and 
 bade them all be friendly to the white man who was 
 coming to live there. Led by the chiefs and followed 
 by the crowd, we then perambulated the boundaries 
 that they might be well impressed on our memories. 
 While thus beating the bounds we came upon a very 
 large snake, coiled among the branches of a low tree. I 
 called for my gun, but it was explained that the Wajiji 
 wish these creatures not to be destroyed ; the elders 
 stood and gazed at it a short time and then we proceeded. 
 
 Wednesday. — Mtongoro, the young Mtongwe chief, came 
 to-day, and half a dozen of his followers ; he has 
 
ujiji 
 
 9 
 
 the logs cut that I asked for, but cannot convey them ; 
 had interesting conference with him. 
 Tuesday. — A nice talk with a little party of Fipa natives 
 come on a trading expedition ; gave me information 
 about their country and chiefs, and carried home the 
 news of us. 
 
 Wednesday. — Went to Mohammed's to treat a little girl, 
 but she could not be induced to come to me, for 
 her nurse had before frightened the child by threaten- 
 ing to give her " to the whiteman " ! Prescribed as 
 well as I could. 
 
 Mr. Dodgshun was shortly expected, and in 
 anticipation of his assuming more particularly the 
 direction of the station at Ujiji, every information 
 was collected and the property put in order for that 
 purpose. Mr. Hutley had already made furniture 
 and other civilised fittings and improvements to the 
 house, and I expected on the arrival of Mr. Dodg- 
 shun to be able to start away for a thorough explora- 
 tion of the lake. 
 
 On 27th March 1 879 our brother arrived, weary and 
 strained with his long-continued and anxious journey- 
 ings, the last month of which, indeed, was accomplished 
 under most exceptionable difficulties, but with un- 
 failing persistence and courage. It was an important 
 and happy time for us all, as we recounted the long 
 story of stirring events since our parting at Mpwapwa, 
 and made plans for enlarged and extended work. 
 
92 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 The caravan of M. Broyon had been completely 
 wrecked. When he started from the coast he was 
 carrying goods for Urambo : a large portion was 
 doubtless the property of Mirambo, as exchange for 
 ivory of his taken to the coast ; other portions were 
 perhaps his prospectively, for more ivory ; all, as he 
 expected, to be sold and distributed in trade to him 
 and his people. Altogether, he looked upon it 
 (native fashion) as his caravan. 
 
 Messengers of Mirambo, who had come down to 
 us in reply to ours, and also to see how Broyon was 
 getting on, took vague accounts to him of Broyon's 
 mysterious delays, and dealings with other clients 
 and patrons, which awakened Mirambo's suspicions. 
 Now as caravans are coming up from the coast 
 their destination is uncertain ; but by and by, at a 
 certain fork of the road, they must plainly announce 
 their destination by taking this road or that. To 
 the neighbourhood of this fork Mirambo sent a party 
 of his men, to ascertain there if Broyon was false to 
 him or not. If Broyon took the road towards 
 Urambo, they would welcome and escort him to their 
 chief ; if he took the other road, they were (in African 
 fashion, of course) to prevent the loss of their chiefs 
 goods. That road was taken which indicated a 
 wrong direction (although doubtless Broyon intended 
 
vjiji 
 
 93 
 
 to send to Mirambo from Unyanyembe what belonged 
 to him). Mirambo's men, aided by the influence 
 and the people of Said-bin-Salim, who was living in 
 great measure under Mirambo's protection, unable to 
 divert the caravan intact, which became broken up 
 in the fright and confusion of these threatening cir- 
 cumstances, carried off the goods to Mirambo. That 
 is, the bulk of the goods ; for on the old principle of 
 not muzzling the ox, Said-bin-Salim and his men, 
 the local chiefs, and the actual carriers of the goods, 
 all had their shares and fees and maintenance out of 
 them ; or, as an eye-witness subsequently told me, 
 " Said-bin-Salim had the cloth and Mirambo the 
 boxes." Mirambo, however, on receiving what came 
 to him, and also by report, became aware that a 
 great part of the property was evidently not his, and 
 sent to Unyanyembe to invite the " whitemen " 
 to claim their own. The fears of M. Broyon, in- 
 creased by the report of certain travellers who had 
 been to Mirambo and failed to understand him, 
 prevented, however, any adjustment at that time ; 
 and Mr. Dodgshun, only being able to judge of 
 Mirambo by their accounts, and being enfeebled by 
 the long journey and its many anxieties, desired to 
 join his brethren at Ujiji before deciding on further 
 action. 
 
94 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 On the subsequent arrival at Mirambo's of 
 Messrs. Southon and Griffiths, however, Mirambo 
 himself suggested an investigation of the matter, and 
 gave up to them what was evidently the L.M.S. 
 property. 
 
 Mr. Dodgshun, after resting at Unyanyembe 
 during the confusion arising from the breaking up of 
 this caravan, passed on alone, through much hard- 
 ship, to Ujiji, where he arrived as related above. 
 The tedious journey, however, of over seven months, 
 with its many anxieties and hardships, the disaster 
 in Unyamwezi, and the subsequent hurried march 
 without proper food or outfit, had completely worn 
 him out. The joyful stimulation of arrival amongst 
 his brethren, and the prospect of getting to steady 
 work, revived him for a day or two ; but fatal weak- 
 ness had already laid its hand upon him, and after a 
 few hours of sudden illness he expired on the 3d 
 April. In the midst of his deepest difficulties and 
 greatest weakness his determination to devote his 
 life to the work he felt called to had not abated, and 
 faithful unto death, he obtained the crown of life. 
 
 The events of the next four months were both 
 exciting and important. Rumours came of Mirambo's 
 approach to attack Ujiji ; the colonial Arab com- 
 munity strove to slander us as the cause. Failing 
 
ujiji 
 
 95 
 
 that, the natives were accused of having invited him ; 
 but as they offered to vacate and leave the Arabs 
 to themselves in proof of their denial of guilt, the 
 Colonials fell to accusing one another of complicity 
 with Mirambo, and each one fortified himself separ- 
 ately in his own tembe. 
 
 On 2 ist May the French traveller, the Abbe 
 Debaize, arrived, and was assisted and entertained by 
 the Mission. A voyage was made to Uguha on the 
 west side of the lake, and friendly acquaintance made 
 with its chief Kassanga, who invited us to occupy 
 a station in his country. 
 
 On 2d August a small party of M. Broyon's 
 men arrived with forty loads of general stores, the 
 salvage of the wrecked expedition. 
 
 Soon after this several new Arabs arrived in town, 
 and some ill-feeling was again observable. It cul- 
 minated one day, when, expecting the arrival of a 
 caravan, and according to allowed custom, I deter- 
 mined to hoist a flag. Having the boat's mast on 
 shore, I thought it would make a very convenient 
 flagstaff, so put it up, not knowing then that was 
 just the thing to excite their anger. 
 
 The Arabs armed all their slaves, forming alto- 
 gether a body of about 200 armed men, and came 
 up to our house. According to custom, I received 
 
9 6 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 them in a friendly way, and asked them to sit down 
 inside. I had then about twenty of these Arabs, 
 nearly filling the principal room. This was a critical 
 moment. There were Mr. Hutley and I, quite alone, 
 and apparently helpless in the hands of this lawless 
 crowd, who completely filled and surrounded the 
 house. There were three large windows in this 
 principal room, just a yard or two from where we 
 stood, and through the bars of the windows the 
 slaves and followers of the Arabs pointed their guns. 
 With their fingers on the triggers, they shouted to 
 their leaders to give the word of command, but they 
 did not : some wonderful power seemed to restrain 
 them, and they could only talk excitedly amongst 
 themselves. At length one of the new-comers stood 
 up and spoke to the rest : " The house is full of 
 goods ; let us empty it now, and destroy these men 
 at one stroke." The excited mob were now yelling 
 and dancing in our verandah and hall, and begging 
 the Arabs to give the word for the onslaught to 
 commence. The Arabs only saw two calm faces, 
 and only heard a quiet request to state their business 
 and talk over it quietly. But One all-powerful to 
 save heard two earnest prayers for help ; the next 
 moment Mohammed -bin- Halfan stood up and 
 quietly said, " Let us get out," and a moment after 
 
ujiji 
 
 97 
 
 those Arabs were literally pusJiing one another in the 
 doorway in their anxiety to get out quickly. It 
 appears that Mohammed had at the same time given 
 orders for the obnoxious flagstaff to be removed. 
 This had drawn the mob off from the house, and so 
 at once caused the removal of the sore point to each 
 party ; he was the first, too, to make friendly 
 advances to us again. This event, so far from 
 causing permanent trouble, became indeed helpful to 
 us ; the best of the Arabs were alarmed at the storm 
 they might at any time raise, the natives were deeply 
 impressed that we remained unharmed. 
 
 We had heard of the arrival of the African 
 International Association's expedition at Karema, 
 then the first news of the coming of Dr. Mullens and 
 Messrs. Southon and Griffiths for the reinforcement 
 of the Mission, and very soon afterwards of the death, 
 alas, of their devoted and loved leader : a loss not 
 only to our Mission, but deeply felt throughout the 
 whole of the Society's work and connections. 
 
 The stirring events at Ujiji were made, in the 
 good providence of God, all to work together for our 
 good. The suspicion and doubts of Arabs and 
 natives alike were smoothened down towards us as 
 they had to deal with the new arrivals. Mirambo's 
 own admission that he should indeed have attacked 
 
 H 
 
9 8 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Ujiji, but that " his friends the whitemen " were there, 
 and the special despatches from Zanzibar confirming 
 the will of the deceased Abbe Debaize in placing 
 the management of his affairs in the hands of the 
 English missionaries, told with great weight in our 
 favour. The Wajiji openly declared a favourable 
 opinion of us, after having viewed us so long " with 
 their own eyes," and offered us a piece of land for 
 the establishment of a station. 1 
 
 On 23d September Messrs. Southon and Griffiths 
 arrived, and although the smouldering doubts and 
 ignorance of the Arabs broke out now and again in 
 various little difficulties, the experience gained of 
 local affairs, and the pressing invitations of Mirambo 
 and Kassanga, enabled us, in formal committee at 
 Ujiji, to decide in establishing stations at Urambo 
 by its occupation by Dr. Southon, and at Uguha 
 by Messrs. Griffiths and Hutley proceeding thither, 
 while I should continue to occupy Ujiji, and proceed 
 with the examination of the lake : measures which, 
 after ten or twelve days of consultation, arrangement 
 of husiness, and division of stores, were duly pro- 
 ceeded with, and carried to a successful issue. 
 
 On 9th October Dr. Southon started for Urambo, 
 where, with devoted and untiring energy, he laid the 
 1 See extract from journal, page 90. 
 
ujijr 
 
 99 
 
 foundation, under God's help and blessing, of a grand 
 Christian work in the very capital of the savage chief 
 who had so long been regarded with fear and tremb- 
 ling alike by Arab, European, and native. 
 
 On 2 2d October, having sent over a hired boat 
 two days before with various stores, we sailed in the 
 Calabash to establish a settlement on the western 
 shore of the lake. Kassanga proved true to his 
 promise : food was brought, labourers provided, and 
 a site being selected at Mtowa, near the southern 
 cape of a beautiful bay of islands, temporary houses 
 were at once erected, forming a station we named 
 Plymouth Rock, and I returned to Ujiji. 
 
 The succeeding year was, for the two new stations, 
 a time of settling down into the new and strange 
 conditions, of acquiring knowledge of the language 
 and character of the people, and of solving the 
 problems of life for the missionaries themselves, 
 resulting in a report, in both cases, of friendly 
 relations with the people, and an earnest appeal for 
 more help for the work thus rapidly opening up in 
 their hands. 
 
 At Ujiji steady advance was made in living down 
 the prejudices of the Arabs, and in further securing 
 the lasting respect and friendship of the Wajiji. 
 
 Voyages were made also, during which all the 
 
100 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 countries round the lake were visited, as related in 
 detail in the following chapter. 
 
 At home the efforts of the year resulted in the 
 despatch of reinforcements, and on 3d October 1880 
 Messrs. Wookey, Palmer, and Williams arrived at 
 Ujiji accompanied by Dr. Southon from Urambo. 
 Messrs. Griffiths and Hutley had come over from 
 Uguha, completing for our District Committee 
 meeting an assembly of seven missionaries. To this 
 meeting were brought a year's report from three 
 stations, an account of the survey of the lake, and 
 further openings in various countries. 
 
 The destinations of the newly- arrived brethren 
 being decided and business details arranged, we 
 separated again in new strength and faith : Messrs. 
 Southon and Williams to Urambo, Messrs. Griffiths 
 and Palmer to Uguha, Messrs. Wookey and Hutley 
 remaining at Ujiji, and I to return to England, as 
 originally arranged by the directors, to report speci- 
 ally upon the lake and the proposed vessel for its 
 navigation. Three stations were thus effectively 
 manned, and the Mission was an established fact. 
 
 The world had already been informed on the 
 highest authority that " the safety of a European at 
 Ujiji would be but precarious," that a disturbance 
 might arise at any moment " the result of which 
 
ujiji 
 
 101 
 
 would be that the European would either have to 
 forfeit all his goods or his life, or decamp with his 
 people immediately to save himself." The disturb- 
 ances truly had from time to time arisen, but the 
 predicted disaster had not ensued. At Ujiji during 
 those " two whole years " the foundations of our 
 Mission had been laid. It was there that we so 
 lived down those prejudices of the Arabs which on 
 our arrival had threatened to render the establish- 
 ment of the Mission impossible, that in after years 
 some of them actually upheld and preserved its 
 members in times of peril. At Ujiji we first made 
 ourselves acquainted with the natives, their language, 
 their institutions, and their modes of life and thought 
 — lived down their suspicions and won their regard. 
 From Ujiji our good name was so made known, by 
 various natives who visited us there, in all the regions 
 round about, that on subsequent visits to distant 
 places our name had gone before and we were re- 
 ceived as friends ; and there also we gathered round us 
 the first native helpers who aided us in voyages and 
 the settlement of stations. And the light kindled in 
 that dark place amidst much prayer and labour and 
 sorrow, glimmering feebly awhile, burning up gradually 
 under steady effort, was already, under God's guid- 
 ance and blessing, spreading afar into the darkness. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 " Launch out into the deep." 
 "Cast the net on the right side of the ship and ye shall find." 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 i 878- i 880 
 
 HE report concerning the countries and the 
 
 people of the lake shore laid before the 
 
 committee at Ujiji was the result of investigation 
 during several voyages, a sketch of which, as well as 
 of subsequent visits, is given in this chapter. 
 
 My own particular department in the pioneer 
 expedition was the establishment of temporary boat 
 communication on the lake for the purpose of exam- 
 ining its shores, visiting the various tribes around it, 
 and reporting upon the best kind of vessel for per- 
 manent use. A supply of instruments, of canvas, 
 rope, and various tools and appliances for nautical 
 use, formed the outfit of the marine department. 
 
 As until the advance of civilisation affords a more 
 speedy way we travel overland by native means and 
 help, improved and organised by us to some extent, 
 
io6 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 so our first boat was a native log canoe, improved and 
 built upon, and named, as significant of the use of 
 native resources, the Calabash. The first Calabash 
 was hired for a year ; the second, purchased at the 
 end of that time, was the sole property of the 
 Society : the sails and rigging altered to fit, she was 
 practically the same as the first. Rudely built of 
 rough unpainted wood smeared with palm oil for its 
 preservation, although the fashion of the sails and 
 masts indicated her European character, the Cala- 
 bash, with her dusky crew and ofttimes somewhat 
 rough -looking commander, would have had a de- 
 cidedly piratical appearance could she have suddenly 
 been sighted in more civilised waters. 
 
 The story of the Calabash as well as her name 
 well illustrates the process of gradual improvement 
 and growth from native institutions and thought into 
 a brighter, better life. 
 
 The best canoes of Tanganyika are obtained from 
 gigantic trees of the vast forest jungle which fringes 
 a great part of the shores of the lake, especially the 
 lofty hills of Ugoma. There our canoe was originally 
 one of those huge trunks, cut down by the little 
 axes of the natives with infinite labour, and with axe 
 and adze and fire carved into shape : that so-called 
 clumsy but typical African form, resembling rather 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 107 
 
 the lines of the hippopotamus than those of the 
 swan, which, however, results in an excellent sea-boat. 
 Dragged down those mountain slopes to the lake 
 shore, the canoe was at last launched upon its surface 
 with much ceremony, the medicine-man making an 
 offering of beads to the spirits of the lake for her 
 protection and safety. As a native trading canoe 
 she entered upon her adventurous career, conveying 
 from port to port the grain and fruit, the salt, oil, 
 dried fish, ivory, and other merchandise of inter- 
 tribal exchange. Coming on one voyage to Ujiji, 
 she was bought there for his purposes by an 
 Mswahili slave-trader. There drawn up on the 
 shore, deepened by having two planks built round 
 her sides, strengthened with frames and thwarts and 
 a half-deck, and rigged with mast and sail, the canoe 
 was launched the second time in the lake as a slave 
 dhow. For three years she plied at intervals back- 
 wards and forwards, bringing cargoes of men and 
 women and children to the Ujiji slave-market. 
 Here this strange craft attracted my attention as a 
 suitable one for our purpose, and having succeeded 
 in purchasing her, she was once more drawn up on 
 the beach, repaired, and altered, and, rigged in English 
 fashion with two masts and sails and our own 
 Mission flag flying, was for the third time launched 
 
io8 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 upon Lake Tanganyika as the first missionary boat, 
 with a prayer for God's blessing on her errand of 
 goodwill to men. Consecrated to the cause of peace 
 which her flag indicated, she became known after a 
 while to every tribe round the lake as the harbinger 
 of goodwill ; carrying to the remotest part of that 
 water a ray of light and love amidst the heathen 
 darkness. 
 
 In this boat the whole of the lake was surveyed. 
 A new sea, with the beauty and the wonder of its 
 calm and breeze and thunder, yielded up its secrets 
 during these voyages, and spread out before us 
 its pathway to the unknown, — unknown lands day 
 by day as a grand panorama unrolling to view in 
 ever new aspect their headlands, creeks, and bays ; 
 unknown tribes of men, now fleeing in amazement at 
 the approach of the stranger, now gathering cour- 
 ageously, spear in hand, to defend their homes from 
 suspected attack, shouting to us in strange tongues 
 their inquiries or their defiance. 
 
 By careful measurement and observation, month 
 after month, the outlines and the names of those 
 countries were marked out on the map of Africa. 
 Year after year, through careful friendly advances, 
 acquaintance was made with those people, and their 
 names and characteristics added to the muster-roll 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 109 
 
 of the nations. Response was made by them to 
 the test of fair and friendly dealing, and eventually 
 requests, when they were made to understand our 
 character and purpose, to settle down and live 
 amongst them, and carry out fully the good inten- 
 tions we professed. These hitherto hidden and 
 mysterious lands proved to be bright and rich and 
 good ; and these barbarous people, dark and ignor- 
 ant as they are, yet again and again showed us 
 in their sayings and doings every ordinary human 
 characteristic. 
 
 The Calabash was 32 feet long, rigged with a jib, 
 mainsail, and mizzen, which, with rigging and gear, 
 I made and fitted myself from the store of ship- 
 chandlery brought from England for the purpose. 
 A half-deck forward provided a place for the anchor 
 and mooring gear above and the outfit of the crew 
 underneath. Another half-deck aft covered a tiny 
 cabin and receptacle for a lock-up chest to hold 
 barter goods. In the body of the boat other goods 
 were stored and covered with a tarpaulin, a space 
 being left for a large open box of ^and with three 
 large stones, forming the fire - place for cooking. 
 Beside the mizzen-mast a little binnacle with compass 
 and lamp was specially fitted for convenience of 
 taking bearings. The anchor had been brought 
 
I 10 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 from London (but as it did not come up with our 
 first lot of goods, I had to be content for the first 
 voyage or two with a big stone), and the cable was 
 one of the waggon chains which I had carefully 
 retained for that purpose. Tholes and sockets were 
 fitted on the boat's sides for eight paddles. With a 
 due supply of stores, food, and barter, our boat was 
 now ready for a cruise. 
 
 My crew consisted at first of eight of our Zanzi- 
 baris, selected as having done good service on the road, 
 and who had made voyages on dhows at the coast ; 
 but very soon I was able to get natives of Ujiji who 
 were skilled canoe and fishermen, some of whom 
 proved most efficient aids, not only as boatmen, but 
 as being able to introduce me (as their friend) at 
 many places we visited. 
 
 While preparing for my first cruise two old hands 
 (pilots) were brought to me, and a most ceremonious 
 proceeding commenced, including reference to the 
 whirlpools and rocks and many other dangers of the 
 deep, the special wisdom of these guides and their 
 necessity to my safety, the custom that already 
 existed of strangers employing their services as the 
 official showmen of the lake, a large amount of 
 mystery, and lastly, although not least, the number 
 of cloths, red, white, blue, and super, necessary to 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 secure their good offices, the same for their friends 
 and their chiefs as consolation for their absence, etc. 
 I have always had every respect for native rights and 
 tribal boundaries and jurisdiction of the powers that 
 be, but as regards the lake, bordered as it is by the 
 territories of so many different tribes, with ample 
 space for the maritime enterprise of all, I determined 
 it should no longer be subject to private rights either 
 of use or of exhibition, but become henceforward, as 
 God had made it, international high sea ; and may 
 no jealousy or greed ever make it other. This was 
 in 1878, and as ever since that time the English 
 flag has floated continually (over wholesome, practi- 
 cal operations) on that lake, I think it may well 
 continue a sphere of British influence, not as private 
 possession or territory, but to secure its free and 
 open use to any who have the skill and enterprise to 
 navigate it for lawful purposes. And thereafter I 
 always maintained that position : namely, on shore 
 I willingly submitted to local authority and customs 
 as regards the land 1 and other matters ; but afloat 
 
 1 Very good customs, it seems to me, for they are mainly this : that 
 within the tribal area individuals of the tribe just help themselves to 
 what God has laid out before them, and to strangers who may be 
 suitable persons land is granted for their use as long as they behave 
 themselves seemly, " but is not sold to them, for the land belongs to the 
 people or tribe"; and anything representing rent, tax, or tithe that may 
 be required from such landholder goes to the public exchequer. 
 
>I2 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 I assumed equal and independent terms with all 
 comers — indeed I got to be called by many leaders 
 of the people the Chief of the Lake ; and the Arabs, 
 who protested most emphatically against a flag (for 
 fear of some subsequent claims) being hoisted on 
 shore in their colonies, specially consented, and even 
 suggested my perfect freedom to do so on the lake. 
 
 Many were the warnings I received, and many 
 were the calamities foretold as likely to be my fate, 
 when it was generally known that I was to voyage 
 upon the lake without a pilot. As regards engaging 
 a local crew I was completely boycotted, but my 
 trusty Zanzibaris (blacklegs) sufficed, and finding 
 after a voyage or two that I could do without them 
 if I liked, I was able to engage a native crew. 
 
 The first voyage was of course somewhat of a 
 trial-trip. During four days I thoroughly tried both 
 boat and crew, visited the eastern coast as far as 
 the famous Cape Kabogo, entered the Malagarasi 
 River, which I afterwards explored for about eight 
 miles, when I was stopped by rapids, and gained 
 experience of the weather and general conditions of 
 navigation — the land - breeze close along shore at 
 night, and the strong south-easter in the day, before 
 which I had a smart run home from Cape Kabogo. 
 
 At the next opportunity I fitted out for a more 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 lengthened trip to visit Uguha on the west side of 
 the lake, to follow up the acquaintance I had made 
 with one of its chiefs at Ujiji. The visit was per- 
 fectly successful, and by waiting a few days at 
 Mtowa and submitting to an inspection and inquiry 
 by his sub-chiefs, I was at last permitted an inter- 
 view with the head chief Kassanga and won his 
 friendship, which resulted in the direct invitation 
 from him that I laid before the committee. With 
 this friendship secured with the Waguha, I went to 
 examine the Lukuga River, and proved it to be the 
 veritable outlet or waste-pipe of the lake, draining 
 off its overflow, over rapids and falls, into the Lualaba, 
 the head waters of the Congo. 
 
 Knowing something, from my first cruise, of the 
 coast of Utongwe, I now endeavoured to reach its 
 people. Another voyage had been made to the 
 Malagarasi to render assistance to the Abbe De- 
 baize, by ferrying him across the mouth of that 
 river, and also to bring to Ujiji the remainder of our 
 goods, sent on by Broyon, which, coming by a more 
 southern route, found themselves on the wrong side 
 of the great river, and indeed in some sense detained 
 by Mtongoro the Utongwe chief there till payment 
 should be made of the tribute he demanded. When 
 I appeared there, however, from the lake, Mtongoro 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 TAXGA NYIKA 
 
 soon became amenable to reason, and by this and 
 subsequent acquaintance was brought into friendly 
 relations with us, and begged that one of our number 
 might be told off to live amongst his people. They 
 have since become scattered as wanderers. Xo one, 
 alas, has been found to enter the open door. At the 
 southern end of Utongwe acquaintance was made 
 with another chief, Musamwira, in a neighbourhood 
 now known as Karema. The following extract from 
 the log of the Calabash describes this first contact 
 between missionary and native there : 
 
 Thursday, 3d July 1879. — Arrived at entrance of river — 
 moored close to shore. ... I have had a little grass 
 hut built, which affords great comfort throughout the 
 day. At night, however, I sleep in the boat, both 
 from old nautical custom, and also because the lions 
 roar so near. . . . Started early to Musamwira's 
 village ; it is enclosed in a round stockade of stout poles 
 surmounted by ghastly trophies of the chase and 
 warfare in the shape of skulls of animals and men, 
 and surrounded by a deep trench. The people, a wild 
 lot — very few women — more like slaves-hunters and 
 robbers than anything else. Buffaloes very abundant ; 
 two were shot to-day, and the meat was brought in 
 cut up, skin and all. Musamwira is a poor-looking 
 elderly man with broken fingers and weak screwed- 
 up eyes that never look straight ; they said he was 
 frightened of me, and desired to cut the interview 
 short. I asked for food, but they were very shy. At 
 last a fowl and a little maize were produced in 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 exchange for salt, and I think I made them understand 
 that I was friendly. The next day I tried them again. 
 Musamwira had gone away somewhere, but I laid hold 
 of an old man he had introduced to me yesterday as 
 one who would show me round, and sitting down, I 
 spread out a little bag of salt, and beckoned to some 
 women who were hanging about with some baskets 
 of potatoes ; a little salt was offered them, and the 
 market and better acquaintance was opened at once. 
 In this way I got a store of sweet potatoes, and then pro- 
 ceeded to bargain for meal ; but the women demanded 
 palm oil for this more valuable commodity. A pot of 
 oil was brought, the women crowded round, and there 
 was soon quite a crush, the centre being my man Uledi 
 and the pot of oil, of about the stiffness of pomatum, 
 and a rich orange colour. A score of eager hands 
 thrust forward their little baskets of meal ; but Uledi, 
 equal to the occasion, remained quite calm as he prof- 
 fered about a table-spoonful of the oil for the best- 
 looking lots of meal. The oil being done, the salt 
 passed current again. A rub of Uledi's oily fingers 
 was scrambled for, and I saw a group of young ladies, 
 who, having rubbed one another with the last particles 
 of oil left on their hands, were now regaling themselves 
 over a pinch of salt, sharing it out in particles which 
 they sucked up like lollipops. The morning's work 
 resulted in a good friendly feeling between ourselves 
 and the natives, quite breaking up the original shyness 
 and suspicion, and as I left they stood talking in 
 groups, describing to one another the satisfactory 
 process of the market, and the appearance and 
 character of the visitors. The next day I got a long, 
 quiet interview with the chief and a number of his 
 men. 
 
n6 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Such has been the process of first introduction again 
 and again. 
 
 This particular visit served to pave the way for 
 the establishment here of the African International 
 Association station known as " Karema," which has 
 now passed into the hands of the Roman Catholic 
 Mission. 
 
 One or two incidents of voyages must suffice to 
 give a glimpse at the north end of the lake. The 
 plan on one trip was to sail right away to the north, 
 and then coast slowly down the western shore, sur- 
 veying and visiting. 
 
 Approaching the north end for the first time, the 
 wind towards evening unexpectedly increased to a 
 very strong breeze, and soon there was a dangerous 
 sea, before which the darkness found us running on 
 to an unknown coast. In another hour I knew we 
 must be close to the shore, so determined to turn the 
 boat round and heave to with the paddles till the gale 
 abated. Watching each sea for a smooth chance to 
 turn, a bigger wave than usual suddenly foamed up all 
 round the boat, making her tremble again, but immedi- 
 ately afterwards we were in much smoother water. I 
 supposed we had crossed a bar into shelter ; and turn- 
 ing the boat round at once, sounded and found only 
 two fathoms. Keeping the men working at the 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 117 
 
 paddles, I ran forward, lashed together three big 
 stones that were in the boat, and casting them over 
 by way of anchor, we rode in safety till morning. 
 Daylight revealed the shore only 300 yards astern ! 
 
 The numerous bold and stalwart Wazige of a 
 village close at hand gazed in great wonder, when 
 they turned out that morning, at the stranger thus 
 appearing amongst them, and a whole day was 
 taken up in explanations and talk. The chief was 
 Mvaruma, the son of Mukamba ; and on becoming 
 convinced of our friendly character he sent down to 
 the boat a long procession of people bearing presents. 
 A young ox, several goats and sheep, numerous 
 baskets of meal, potatoes, and bananas, made a load 
 more than we could eat or even carry away, and 
 1 was obliged to return two goats to the elders of 
 the village. All seemed well, and arrangements 
 were made for me to come and have a more lengthy 
 conference with the chief the next day, starting from 
 a point a few miles farther south, where I thought it 
 prudent to move as a safer place for the boat during 
 a few days' stay. From that place," therefore, I 
 started for the interview. I was supplied with 
 guides by Muinyi Heri, who was at his Uvira depot ; 
 and on the road passed through the depot of 
 Mohammed- bin -Gharib, an Mswahili Arab who 
 
u8 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 befriended Livingstone. This good man put every 
 possible obstacle in my way : first I must shelter 
 in his verandah against the noonday heat, then 
 I must stay to eat something, and finally, rinding 
 me persistent, he assured me my life was in danger 
 and I must wait for another opportunity. He was 
 afraid at that time to give me all the particulars, but 
 he told me the story afterwards, which was con- 
 firmed from other quarters. Some slaves of Muinyi 
 Heri's had been to Mvaruma's and told them all 
 sorts of yarns about me, especially dwelling on the 
 extraordinary fact of my giving back the two goats. 
 A council of elders was held, and it was decided 
 that I had bewitched the goats and was a traitor, 
 incurring the death-penalty, which it was decided 
 to carry out as I approached on the promised 
 visit. An ambush was arranged, and a quantity 
 of fuel cut for the customary execution by fire, 
 and this coming to the ears of Mohammed, made 
 him detain me and thus save my life. A long 
 time afterwards, and partly by the aid of Mo- 
 hammed, they were convinced of their mistake 
 and sent friendly messages to us. The coasts of 
 Uvira, Umsanzi, and Ubwari were successively 
 visited and friendly intercourse exchanged with the 
 natives at various points. One of the finest sights of 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 119 
 
 the lake was in passing by bright moonlight the rocky 
 south-east promontory of the Ubwari peninsula — a 
 high shore richly clothed with dense forest jungle, fes- 
 tooned with rattan, and fringed with beautiful creepers, 
 was bordered below by a chaos of bare broken 
 rocks over which the south-east swell was breaking 
 high and grandly, a bright moon shining on all, and 
 the otherwise silent night giving full play to the 
 roar and splash of the broken water. The steep 
 sides of the Ugoma hills now formed our coast 
 as we paddled away to the south, and the Wagoma 
 we wished to visit. An incident taken direct from 
 the log of the Calabash will well illustrate our 
 acquaintance with them. 
 
 \st September 1879. — ... As we neared the lofty Ugoma 
 hills the fires indicated many villages. Soon shouts 
 were raised, gradually increasing till every ridge and 
 hillside resounded and seemed clothed with people — 
 they seemed like shouts of exultation one to another. 
 
 2d. — About 3 A.M. signs of south wind coming on, I pulled 
 in straight towards a gorge between two very steep 
 hillsides, at the foot of which I expected to find a small 
 harbour. The shouts increased ; the people were evi- 
 dently gathering on both sides as we pulled into the 
 inlet, out of which a strong wind blew. As we got 
 close in, people from both sides came down to the little 
 beach shouting fiercely, and then as they thought us 
 within range a shower of stones fell just ahead of us. 
 Uledi shouted, and I shouted, " Msungu, Msungu " 
 
120 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 (white man), but we could not be heard amongst 
 the hundreds shouting on all sides, so I called a 
 retreat at once, and we pulled out to sea again. The 
 shouts were now renewed louder than ever — notes of 
 triumph. As we pulled along shore the people 
 signalled from one hill-top or village to another till 
 we could hear the news flying far ahead of us. About 
 5 I caught sight of some boats hovering close in shore ; 
 they were five canoes full of armed men. Uledi 
 shouted out to them, " We are Msungu's men, the 
 Msungu is here" ; they answered, "No, you are Warua"; 
 we said, " Come and see " ; they replied, " We will 
 come, if it is a white man and Wangwana, they are cur 
 friends, but if you are Warua we will fight, : ' and so 
 they cautiously approached. The first dawn of day 
 was just showing, and as they came near I stood up 
 on the rail and spread myself out to view as well 
 as I could ; they soon recognised me as a white man, 
 and at once were pleased and perfectly confident. 
 Several hundred people, amid great excitement, wel- 
 comed us in the little harbour to which these people 
 piloted us. In the afternoon, the chief Mutanda having 
 arrived, a great meeting was held, at which I was 
 ceremoniously received as a friend by an ancient chief 
 saluting me and plucking a handful of grass as a token 
 of peace. They wanted me to come and live with 
 them. 
 
 Another invitation — who will go ? Leaving 
 Ugoma, I coasted on to Uguha to pay another visit 
 to keep up our acquaintance with Kassanga, and so 
 home to Ujiji, somewhat tired indeed, for although 
 sometimes I had been amply feasted, I had often 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 121 
 
 nothing by way of repast beyond the half- boiled 
 maize meal which formed the chief rations of my 
 crew. Often drenched to the skin all night through, 
 and again the whole day through at the tiller under 
 the burning sun — but still rejoicing in the remark- 
 able success of the cruise and the grand opportunities 
 for work which were thus being opened up. The 
 map of the lake was already in good progress as 
 regards its northern half, but it was some months 
 before I was able to start on a lengthened southern 
 cruise, on which a still more detailed survey was 
 required. 
 
 On 17th March I started for this special cruise 
 to the south end, on which I was away over two 
 months. 
 
 A few incidents again must suffice. In Ufipa, 
 south of Utongwe, acquaintance was first gained in 
 Mpimbwe Bay with the local chief Marrampamba, 
 and also at Polungu Island, where the Calabash and 
 her crew were one day surprised and completely 
 surrounded by a party of armed warriors. For- 
 tunately our crew of Wajiji refuted 'on our behalf 
 the accusation of piracy which had led to this 
 demonstration against us, and with a personal 
 examination of the boat and its contents and a few 
 pinches of salt passed round, the party was satisfied, 
 
122 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 and left us with protestations of friendship. The 
 country has been open to us ever since, but we have 
 no one yet to follow up these friendly relations, 
 although there are many good sites for stations on 
 the coast of Fipa. 
 
 Ulungu, which occupies the chief part of the 
 south end of the lake, is a country of great import- 
 ance, both to our missionary enterprise and from 
 its geographical position. A special survey therefore 
 was made of this neighbourhood. One of the most 
 interesting points is the entrance to the Lofu River, 
 afterwards to become such an active scene as the 
 site of our ship-building depot. The entrance is not 
 visible until one comes close upon it ; then turning 
 sharp round to the southward a beautiful gap in the 
 coast-line opens to view a broad and deep entrance. 
 Where there are sheltered points in the river banks, 
 there the long water-grass and papyrus accumulate 
 in thick masses of very bright green. Steep verdant 
 slopes rise up on every side, broken by gullies choked 
 with dense vegetation, and conducting smaller streams 
 into the general outlet. One appears, however, to 
 be only running up into an inlet with large masses 
 of water -grass at its head and hills beyond ; but 
 as we advance the successive zigzag reaches are 
 disclosed in vista after vista of the same pleasing 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 125 
 
 aspect, until, turning again westward, a vast gap or 
 basin presents itself, forming a piece of very grand 
 scenery. The river spreads out widely as a long 
 winding lake, from which ascend, with more or less 
 intervening lowlands, immense hills, with for the 
 most part clear, straight sky - lines, showing the 
 edges of the table -lands above. On the southern 
 side, a long and gentle rise from the water's edge to 
 the steeper hillside was covered with villages and 
 extensive gardens, where one might walk for miles 
 through field after field of waving corn and rice. 
 Westward the valley narrows towards the more 
 confined space of the incoming waters ; but the outlet 
 from which we entered was hidden at a short dis- 
 tance, giving the appearance of a complete surround- 
 ing mountain barrier — one of the richest and most 
 beautiful spots in the Tanganyika countries. 
 
 In Ulungu I made the acquaintance of the chief 
 Zombe at the extreme south end of the lake, by 
 two days' climb up the hills to his large fortified 
 villages on the banks of a beautiful stream. We 
 were far from home, for even my Wajiji sailors 
 were at fault here, and when I urged them to 
 step to the front and explain the purpose of our 
 coming, they hung back and said, " Sir, we are 
 strangers here, you must lead the way." Approaching 
 
124 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 after due notice in African fashion, we were hospit- 
 ably received, and the suggestion of residence in the 
 country highly approved. In like manner I got 
 to know the chieftainess Mwema, in the beautiful 
 harbour of Mpete, and Kapufi, Chumananga, and 
 Kitimbwa at Liendwe, in the enclosed valley of the 
 Lofu River — places and people afterwards to take 
 an important part in the history of our Mission. 
 
 It was time to get back to Ujiji. Many a hot 
 calm and many a fierce squall the good Calabash 
 had already weathered, but never had she gone so 
 fast or danced so gaily as one whole day and night 
 of our return trip, when we ran before a strong 
 southerly gale, and my sailors actually hid their 
 heads in the bottom of the boat, unable to face the 
 weird and stormy scene. We arrived in safety at 
 Ujiji on the 20th May. 
 
 Such were a few of the leading points of the 
 report of the Marine Department to the District 
 Committee at Ujiji in October 1880, when at the 
 same time the brethren from Uguha and Urambo 
 brought their reports of the commencement of 
 Christian teaching in those places. 
 
 Through perils oft by sea and land, through 
 hunger and sickness, and many difficulties, the net 
 had been cast and God had blessed us. The net 
 
THE CRUISE OF THE CALABASH 
 
 125 
 
 had been cast on the right side of the ship. Faded 
 and worn were both boat and crew, battered and 
 bleached with rain, and sea, and sun ; deep furrows 
 in our planks marked a scramble with hippopotami, 
 but no mark of conflict with man was shown by her 
 or us — no memory of conflict stains the record of the 
 cruise of the Calabash. The net has been cast on the 
 right side of the ship, and we have become fishers 
 of men ; it is so full that we are not able to draw 
 it to land. Come over, partners, we pray you, and 
 help us. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 "O Lord, how manifold are thy works ! in wisdom hast thou made 
 them all : the earth is full of thy riches." 
 
 " So God created man in his own image, . . . and hath made of 
 one blood all nations of men for to dwell on all the face of the earth." 
 
 " God hath showed me that I should not call any man common or 
 unclean. " 
 
CHi\PTER VI 
 
 THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 IN the " Instructions " of the Board of Directors 
 to the members of the pioneer expedition 
 there was this clause : 
 
 " As the lake region has only been visited by 
 passing travellers, you will, as settled residents, have 
 opportunities of gathering numerous facts in regard 
 to the country and its people, its climate, products, 
 geography, etc. To Mr. Hore in particular, as a 
 practised observer, the directors commend this portion 
 of your duties." 
 
 During " the cruise of the Calabash" and on 
 subsequent voyages and journeys, I endeavoured so 
 to observe as to follow those instructions, and in 
 the following pages, as concisely as may be, to render 
 some account of the same. 
 
 The outer grace and beauty of any one of God's 
 creatures is but the outward and visible sign of 
 
 K 
 
13° 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 its inward and still more wonderful structure — the 
 assurance of a perfect system of bone and muscle, 
 of vital circulation and spiritual force, — revealed in 
 detail by anatomy, — accepted as necessary by our 
 reasoning powers and our faith. 
 
 While the earth remaineth, and while seedtime 
 and harvest, and cold and heat, and summer and 
 winter, and day and night cease not, while the bow 
 is still in the cloud, shall we not believe in the 
 structural and spiritual perfection of all parts of 
 God's earth ? 
 
 Geographical anatomy has revealed to the doubt- 
 ing, and confirmed to the faithful, the structure of 
 inner Africa, giving us a vision of wonder and 
 beauty in place of the gloomy dream of our ignorance 
 and unbelief. 
 
 The vital and structural centre of Africa is a long, 
 irregular, oval-shaped elevation of mountain masses, 
 spreading out in many places as vast plateaux, and 
 buttressed by far -stretching ridges, here and there 
 rising into snow-clad peaks — the backbone from 
 which, outwards and downwards, in intricate articu- 
 lations, extends the complicated bony skeleton of 
 the continent. 
 
 In the crevices of this central mass — in rocky 
 basins, in fathomless chasms, in vast depressions of 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 the elevated plateaux — lie those great natural rain- 
 water tanks known as the Central African lakes — 
 central sparkling gems of the Dark Continent, from 
 which radiate in endless ramifications the streams 
 which flow onwards and outwards throughout its 
 length and breadth ; for the outflow of these great 
 reservoirs through gaps and passes, or their overflow 
 through broad spongy expanses, and the downflow 
 over the outer sides of these buttresses, are the head 
 waters of the great rivers that flow into the Mediter- 
 ranean, the Atlantic, and the Indian Ocean — the heart 
 lobes and circulating channels of its vitalising fluid. 
 
 Clustering round the great central lakes and 
 crowning their surrounding ridges, dense forests of 
 gigantic trees are preserved in perpetual verdure — the 
 flesh and muscle of this great creation, clothing and 
 beautifying its rocky skeleton ; and down over the 
 sides of the central elevation stretch these glorious 
 forests in vast extending masses on their native 
 heights, or where the waters spread, — in smaller 
 groves where moisture is held in rocky basins, — and 
 in long extending lines and network fringing the 
 ever-winding banks of the streams, and, finally, 
 joining with the verdant belt of the seashore to form 
 the brilliant epidermis of the whole, — and forming 
 background and filling to the network of these 
 
l 3 2 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 prominent features, in broad concentric curves, and 
 belts, and patches, the thorny stunted growth, long 
 grass, broad savannah, and sandy plain, ever changing 
 in colour and aspect. 
 
 Beneath these superficial features the rough 
 outlines of the foundation mass of the continent are 
 concentrically arranged thus : a slope upwards and 
 inwards from the coast ; a flat terrace of irregular 
 annular form, bulging out, in correspondence with 
 the general shape of the continent — in the north, as 
 the Sahara, in the south, as the Kalahari ; and then 
 the central elevation of mountain heights, 1 more or 
 less flattened at the top, already referred to. 
 
 This concentric arrangement is to some extent 
 broken up and diversified by many independent 
 peaks and ridges, as well as the depressions and 
 chasms containing the lakes, and other shallower 
 depressions, alternating (with the rain supply) as 
 swamps and pools, or dry treeless patches. The 
 annular terrace is at some points almost obliterated, 
 as though material from the interior heights had slid 
 down over it ; and over and through all these other 
 features a radial arrangement of great ridges and 
 furrows, dividing up fanwise into innumerable smaller 
 ridges and furrows, descending from the interior to 
 
 1 " The Mountains of the Moon." 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 133 
 
 every coast of the continent ; the furrows of course 
 being the rivers, and the ridges their dividing water- 
 sheds. 
 
 Now these radiating ridges and furrows point to 
 some locality of common origin or source which may 
 well be regarded as the physical centre of the conti- 
 nent : not necessarily the highest point, which may 
 (and does) consist of some isolated peak, but the 
 highest part of the general continental mass. 
 
 The determination of that physical centre or 
 heart of Africa would be the subject of endless 
 discussion were it not naturally demonstrated by 
 the flowing of the waters. Following all these 
 radiating streams upward to their sources, we find 
 ourselves then, not at a point, but on a continuous 
 crest or rim 1 (in some places of sharp edge, in others 
 of broad flattened surface) surrounding a space of 
 long oval form, about 600 miles by 300 miles, which 
 is a deep crater-like cavity ; its western side for the 
 most part very steep, its eastern of more gentle 
 slope. Outside this rim the rainfall flows away to 
 every side of the continent as the sources of the 
 Nile, the Congo, and the Zambesi ; but inside, it 
 flows down, from every side of the rim, into the bottom 
 of the depression. There, adding to its crater-like 
 
 1 An outcrop again of the concentric form. 
 
'34 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 character as well as form, is a long deep chasm. 
 Its general plan is of the same jagged form charac- 
 teristic of forked lightning, or the fracture of stone, 
 pottery, or pie-crust — the appearance of a violently 
 produced opening in the earth's crust. Not only 
 this appearance leads one to think of volcanic action 
 and earthquake movement : still more practical 
 evidence is afforded in the frequent recurrence of 
 shocks of earthquake, sometimes so severe as to 
 open cracks in the ground, as well as the presence 
 of several hot springs and jets of steam and petro- 
 leum ; while still more frequent gloomy rumblings 
 beneath the surface indicate that the fires below are 
 still active. 
 
 Into this chasm for untold years has poured the 
 rainfall of the whole space within the mountain rim, 
 forming the beautiful inland sea — 400 miles long, 
 15 to 50 miles wide, having a coast-line of 1000 
 miles and a surface of 13,000 square miles — which 
 is known as Lake Tanganyika. 
 
 From the Mediterranean to the Cape of Good 
 Hope we find Africa more or less full of people. 
 On the grass-bearing savannahs the pastorals roam 
 with their herds of cattle ; on the verdant river bank, 
 in patiently- cut clearings of the rich forest land, 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 135 
 
 on terraces of the watered mountain slopes, the busy 
 agriculturists are found at work, cultivating bread- 
 stuffs and vegetables. Scientists suppose they have 
 in ancient times come from the north, and in several 
 cases native tradition confirms that idea. Onward 
 and southward, step by step, tempted forward by 
 unoccupied rich land and pastures on before, urged 
 on by the pressure of other tribes behind, they have 
 spread foot by foot over the whole habitable parts 
 of the land. 
 
 We might expect to find then some sort of 
 stratified arrangement of these people, as tribe after 
 tribe they had successively taken up their present 
 locations ; it may have been so, but, whether or no, 
 the existing arrangement of the tribes of men in 
 Africa wonderfully corresponds with its geographical 
 features. By a providential arrangement, a law of 
 natural selection, or some other powerful influence, 
 they have, whatever the method of their original 
 arrival and deposition, become adjusted, like steel 
 filings under the magnet, into a conqentric and 
 radial symmetry. 
 
 Concentrically, the cultivators, traders, and fight- 
 ing men if need be, face the outer world on the slope, 
 the nomad and pastoral people occupy the terrace, 
 and the more peaceful agricultural and industrial the 
 
■36 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 central heights. Radially, the tribal, racial, or family 
 divisions of the African people (the Semitico-African, 
 the Negroid, the Zulu, the south equator Negro, and 
 the north equator Negro) to be seen upon its outer 
 coast converge in long continuous lines to the interior ; 
 while, exceptionally placed, 1 as incompatible with 
 this general symmetry, older aboriginal tribes, such 
 as the Bushmen, the dwarfs, and perhaps the 
 Wanyamwezi, still survive distinct in more or less 
 isolated patches amongst those supposed to be later 
 arrivals. 
 
 It is this racial relationship of the various tribes, 
 with introduction, passage, and intercourse always 
 possible on before (on one of the radial lines), always 
 difficult to the right or left of it, that has tended 
 to determine the routes of travellers and explorers ; 
 in South Africa, for instance, almost invariably 
 Zambesi-wards, and in Central Africa, east and west ; 
 only the peerless Livingstone (seeking new lands 
 and people without regard to a brilliant passage) 
 ever, with persistent patient courage, going against 
 the grain of these travelling facilities. 
 
 Following these racial lines 2 to a central point of 
 
 1 Like some of the exceptional geographical features. 
 
 2 In the description of these people farther on two typical cases are 
 instanced in detail. 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 137 
 
 convergence, we find ourselves again upon the shores 
 of Lake Tanganyika. 
 
 The most noticeable political features now ap- 
 pearing upon the map of Africa are those great 
 coloured patches representing European " posses- 
 sions " and " protectorates." 
 
 In North Africa they surround, in small patches, 
 the Sudan and the Sahara, which still remain as a 
 vast impassable interior. In South Africa they are 
 ranged on either coast, backed in the interior (with 
 now apparently well -settled boundaries) by the 
 " Cape Colony," the " British protectorate," and the 
 " British sphere of influence." But in Central 
 Africa the greatest claims of greatest influence — the 
 Congo Free State, the German and the British 
 portions of " Zambesia," and the " eastern equatorial 
 territory " — would be so cornered together as to give 
 constant cause of discussion as to political limits and 
 means of access and passage if they did not all abut 
 upon some natural feature of the land, securing at 
 once an indisputable boundary and means of transit 
 and access. Such central natural feature is Lake 
 Tanganyika. With a portion of its southern extreme 
 secured to British influence, and a right-of-way to its 
 northern end from our eastern equatorial possessions ; 
 
138 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 with its eastern shore the boundary of Germany, and 
 its western that of the Congo Free State, it is at once 
 the political centre of Africa and, as a link for con- 
 nection between the Nile and the Zambesi, the centre 
 of a long line of natural aids to a future system of 
 transport and communication through inner Africa. 
 
 Lake Tanganyika then, as the geographical, 
 ethnological, and political centre, may well be termed 
 the Heart of Africa. From around its containing 
 basin circulates to every side the vitalising fluid of 
 the whole land ; to it converge the various races 
 of Africans ; around it, on every side, have closed 
 in those modern enterprises which have for their 
 alleged purpose the development of the land and 
 the liberty and civilisation of its people. From 
 there, then, we should be able to draw a fair sample 
 of things African ; there we should be able to 
 study the African people and form such a fair idea 
 of their leading characteristics and condition as only 
 can enable us successfully and justly to carry out 
 our enterprises in the land and our relations and 
 responsibilities with and towards them. 
 
 Lake Tanganyika, although to some of us only a 
 little blue patch upon the map of Africa, is to the 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 139 
 
 natives of those regions " the great water," and the 
 source of many industries, both directly from what 
 it produces, and indirectly through the facility for 
 transport it affords to the various tribes of people 
 whose territories are fringed by its 1000 miles of 
 shore. 
 
 Owing to the immense evaporation, the opposite 
 shores, even where only 1 5 miles distant, are visible 
 only in the rainy season ; then, sailing down the 
 centre of the lake, one realises its trough-like character, 
 but coasting in -shore there is a great variety of 
 scenery : here for 30 miles at a stretch you sail in 
 deep water close alongside the mountains, which 
 rise steeply to over 1 000 feet, showing broad patches 
 of rock amongst miles of beautiful trees ; again, in a 
 few places, shallow flats only permit access to the 
 shore by poling in canoes. Steep rocky islands, 
 with dry soil, set out in the lake so as to be always 
 ventilated, supply sites for residence, and many fine 
 natural harbours give facility for navigation. 
 
 Pebbly creeks with clear water and pretty shells 
 fringe the drier and more scrubby forest regions of 
 lower elevation, and invite the visits of the buffalo, 
 the zebra, the elephant, and all the larger animals. 
 
 Muddy river mouths, half-choked with reeds and 
 papyrus, and swarming with hippopotami and 
 
140 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 crocodiles, afford a home for ducks, geese, the ibis, 
 kingfishers, the beautiful crested crane, and many 
 other aquatic birds. 
 
 Again, there are deep quiet inlets with lofty and 
 almost perpendicular sides, ending often in a deep 
 chine with a beautiful cascade ; while far above all 
 on the lofty heights overhead the virgin forest of 
 gigantic trees revels in perpetual moisture, sheltering 
 tree-ferns, and festooned with lianas and rattan, 
 affording a home for rare insects below and monkeys 
 above : the whole array of African scenery alike in 
 its more arid and its most luxuriant form. 
 
 Turning to the lake itself, with its long open 
 stretches of deep blue sea, all sense of confinement 
 is lost upon the watery horizon, rarely broken by the 
 triangular sail of the Arab merchant's dhow or the 
 long low log canoe of the native adventurer, both 
 of which coast along shore as much as possible, only 
 crossing the lake after careful observation of the 
 weather. The former, when caught in rough 
 weather, are sometimes left entirely to the mercy of 
 the winds and waves, and being excellent sea-boats 
 are not often lost. The natives, with their generally 
 deep-laden canoes, have a unique method of riding 
 out a storm : the more robust, and if necessary all 
 hands, go overboard, and holding by the canoe with 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 141 
 
 one hand, at once lightly sustain themselves and serve 
 as a break to their craft, out of which in case of still 
 greater necessity they will throw their property in 
 the inverse order of its value. 
 
 In fine weather there is no more delightful place 
 for sailing than Lake Tanganyika, there being but 
 very few reefs and shallows. Most beautiful of all 
 perhaps is its aspect on a clear night, when, relieved 
 of the sun's glare, the voyager is able to enjoy the 
 scene. The busy and perpetual hum of insects on 
 the shore gauges the distance from the beach as the 
 boat recedes or approaches, and seems, with the 
 flickering will -o'- wisp marking out the water's edge, 
 to welcome the home-coming voyager — arrived, may 
 be after long rain and storm, at the desired haven. 
 Another aspect is given by the south-easter of the 
 dry season, sometimes lasting as a gale for four or five 
 days, only lulling slightly at night, and causing a 
 bad sea running the whole length of the lake, and 
 against which it is almost impossible for a small 
 craft to beat. At daybreak huge masses of clouds 
 piled up on one of the great mountain capes of the 
 eastern shore begin literally to drop down over the 
 lake, overshadowing all that side, as the wind begins 
 to rise with a low moan and the water is lashed into 
 little waves, showing their crests white under the 
 
142 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 overshadowing clouds ; then in separating masses, 
 and in long perspective procession, the clouds seem 
 to rush off across the lake to the table -like heights 
 of Goma on the opposite side, where, one after the 
 other, retaining a separate and pillow- like form, 
 they pile themselves in regular horizontal order. 
 Meantime the wind has increased till it is blowing a 
 gale, with a fierce driving sea the whole length of the 
 lake. The sky clears, and a great dryness ensues ; 
 the long row of cloud masses on the western shore 
 remain discharging their moisture amongst the 
 luxuriant forests on those heights, while the lake 
 basin is hot and dry. This is the windy weather. 
 There is also a watery aspect. 
 
 Leaving Kavala Island one afternoon, bound to 
 Kigoma in Ujiji, we made an unusually long passage. 
 In the early morning there was a light, fair wind, but 
 it had ceased by daylight, and set in again from the 
 north. The heavy clouds on the mountains of the 
 west side began to move north, discharging rain very 
 heavily ; clouds then collected along the eastern 
 shore, also moving north, and gathering ominously. 
 Meantime we in mid -lake were still getting north 
 wind, coming down between the two cloud -currents, 
 which were moving in the opposite direction. About 
 8 o'clock the western clouds were in great con- 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 143 
 
 fusion, and several waterspouts were formed and 
 moved along with the squall. The mass of clouds 
 on the east side at the same time broke up over 
 Ujiji, discharging heavy rain and much thunder and 
 lightning. To the north, where the lake shores 
 approach each other, the cloud masses on either side 
 drew gradually together down the middle upon us 
 in mid -lake. The thunder- claps fairly shook the 
 boat, the lightning crossed and recrossed overhead 
 from horizon to horizon, the rain came down in 
 torrents, and cold as ice. The last glimpse of brighter 
 day went out overhead as the cloud masses joined 
 together like the closing of a skylight in a vaulted 
 roof. The group of waterspouts off Goma now 
 seemed to rush out to sea in our direction, and one 
 huge pillar came so dangerously near to us that I 
 was able to closely observe its shape and movements. 1 
 The base consisted of a peg- top -shaped cloud of 
 spray, with its big end just touching the surface of 
 the lake ; out of its centre arose a vast glass -like 
 cylinder, forming the body of the waterspout, 
 smooth and solid ; all around, outside this central 
 solid column, loose masses of broken water or close 
 spray appeared falling down from the cloud in 
 which the upper end was hidden, and the whole was 
 
 1 See illustration, page 128. 
 
144 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 gently swayed by the wind, but without losing its 
 form or varying in diameter. Glad indeed we were 
 when a mass of cloud lower than the rest swept 
 down upon our dangerous neighbour and broke it up. 
 
 All this time half of the crew were engaged in 
 keeping the boat's head to sea in the constantly 
 varying squalls from north-west to north-east, while 
 the other half were constantly employed in baling 
 out the rain which threatened to fill the boat. 
 Four or five other waterspouts were seen at the 
 same time in every stage — from the dipping, wav- 
 ing cloud -point gradually approaching the rising 
 vertex of the whirlpool below, to the long, waving, 
 attenuated column about to disappear. With the 
 density of the rain and clouds it was as dark as 
 twilight, and so cold that we were all literally shiver- 
 ing and shaking. This continued for some three 
 hours, nor did the sun again show itself till 5 o'clock. 
 
 A couple of hours of calm succeeded the subsid- 
 ence of the rain, and then a fresh breeze from the 
 west took us at full speed into Kigoma Bay, where 
 we anchored late in the afternoon. 
 
 But perhaps the most dangerous, and certainly 
 the most disagreeable, is the bad weather at the 
 changing of the seasons, in which both wind and 
 water unite in most alarming aspects. 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 '45 
 
 Fierce squalls, suddenly shifting in direction and 
 causing a dangerous cross-sea, are accompanied by 
 driving rain and hail, and at night a terrible dark- 
 ness makes navigation still more difficult. At 
 these times I have seen the natural electric lights, 
 " St. Elmo's fire," for hours together at each mast 
 head and spar end. 
 
 It will be seen that the seasons are the wet 
 and the dry, following the general arrangement in 
 Tropical Africa, with the greatest meteorological 
 disturbances at the changes. 
 
 Whilst in 1879 29.78 inches of rain fell at Ujiji 
 (S. lat. 4° 54' 30"), there fell in London during the 
 same year 30.13 inches. In 1878 nearly an inch 
 more fell in London, and in the only two months I 
 recorded at Ujiji in that year the rain was also in 
 excess of the corresponding period in 1879. Of 
 the rain of 1880 at Ujiji I obtained record only up 
 to October, but, adding to that the average of the 
 preceding two years for November and December, 
 we have for 1880 27.31 inches — a difference again 
 from the London rainfall of just half an inch. At 
 Kavala Island (S. lat. 5 0 40'), in 1886, 52.07 
 inches was measured; in 1887, 52.25 inches; and 
 for the earlier part of 1888 an amount which pro- 
 mised for the whole year about 5 8 inches. 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 The hottest time of year is in November and 
 February, and the coldest in July. At Ujiji a 
 maximum of 83 0 , a minimum outside of 58°, the 
 ordinary temperature being 76 0 to 79° ; all but the 
 minimum being inside a house with thick walls and 
 roof. At Kavala, in a much slighter-built house, 
 a maximum of 86° and a minimum of 60". 
 
 The climate, on the whole, is by no means un- 
 healthy, — far healthier, indeed, than the coast regions 
 in the same latitude, — and the unhappy experiences 
 hitherto of travellers and missionaries have been due 
 rather to the difficult conditions of life and work 
 than to insalubrity of climate. Many of those who 
 have visited the region have been already debili- 
 tated by long journeys under conditions of hard- 
 ship and anxiety. I have no doubt that, as a 
 few civilised surroundings are secured, and the 
 country and conditions of life become better 
 understood, there will be no complaint about the 
 climate. 
 
 The height of the surface of the lake above the 
 level of the sea is 2700 feet. The water is fresh, 
 and was used by us for years for all purposes. The 
 taste resembles distilled water rather than that of 
 springs, and Dr. Frankland, who kindly made an 
 analysis of some brought home for the purpose, 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 147 
 
 reports it as much the same as Thames water, but 
 with very much less organic impurity. 
 
 In quite recent times a wonderful thing has 
 happened in connection with the lake. In 1877 
 or the early part of 1878 its waters, having in the 
 course of ages (but very slowly, owing to the 
 enormous evaporation) risen to the lowest gap in its 
 barriers, flowed through that gap, which now, as the 
 Lukuga River, forms its permanent outlet. The out- 
 flowing waters, over rapids and falls, find their way 
 into the Lualaba, the head waters of the Congo. 
 This gap lay between ranges of hills ; it was filled 
 up with earth and vegetation, which became saturated 
 as the lake rose, and at length gave way before its 
 pressure. Had the more solid barrier been a few 
 feet higher, the lake would most likely have found vent 
 eastwards. Near Karema it had already flooded a 
 large space, whence probably Lake Leopold was filled. 
 
 As Tanganyika is geographically central in 
 Africa, as its tribes of natives represent all the 
 families of the continent, no less distinctly do the 
 shores of the lake exhibit a full collection of samples 
 of its flora and fauna. 
 
 The lofty heights of the west and north-west 
 shores are clothed by the jungle forests (extending 
 
148 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 thence from the banks and the upper valley of 
 the Congo), filled with lofty trees of many valuable 
 hard woods, whence are derived the splendid canoes 
 of the lake. On the east there chiefly obtain 
 samples of the grass -bearing plains, and the open 
 forest of scrubby, stunted trees and acacias, 
 characteristic of the less continuously moist eastern 
 side of the continent. The borrassus, the raphia, 
 and many other palms, and along the north-east 
 coast the oil-palm, abound, and the oil is indus- 
 triously prepared by the Warundi and Wajiji ; a 
 few trees being found also at the south end. The 
 tamarind, castor-oil, Indian hemp, and pepper are 
 commonly seen about the villages. Cotton and 
 tobacco are cultivated by the natives for their own 
 use, as well as the maize, dhurra, rice, beans, sweet 
 potatoes, cassava, pumpkins, and ground-nuts, which 
 form their staple food supplies. Of fruits, many 
 kinds of bananas and the papai are to be found in 
 every native settlement. In the localities where 
 Arabs have become located, they have largely intro- 
 duced limes, citrons, custard -apples, pomegranates, 
 mangoes, etc. ; and at Ujiji a few cocoa-nut and 
 date-palms are now bearing fruit. 
 
 Of all living creatures in Africa, I think the 
 birds are most en evidence. The ostrich on the 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 149 
 
 plains ; the guinea-fowl, partridge, and dove, in the 
 woods ; the pelican and spoonbill, the crested crane, 
 and many others, in the marshes ; the spur-winged 
 and the solan goose, duck, and teal, in the lagoons ; 
 the ibis, the lily-trotter, and a host of others, in the 
 river mouths and quiet creeks — all find congenial 
 homes on the lake shore and its adjoining countries. 
 The vulture, the hawk, and the fish-eagle overhead, 
 innumerable small birds in the trees and bushes, 
 the golden oriel, with its noisy colonies of many 
 nests amongst the long reeds, enliven every feature 
 of the scene. The seasons of the year have their 
 special birds, seeking suitable clime and food. In 
 the freshness of morning the pied kingfisher is seen 
 hovering over the water, and dropping like a flash 
 upon its finny prey ; later on, in the heat of mid-day, 
 the darter, silent as the otter, glides below on the 
 same errand ; in the still, quiet evening, the scissor- 
 bill skims the smooth surface, with one slender 
 mandible in the water and the other above ; and at 
 night a large goatsucker, with long, right-angled, 
 trailing wings, flits around, batlike and mysterious. 
 
 Excepting where settlements are abundant, nearly 
 all those animals familiarly known as " African " are 
 to be found at various points all round the lake 
 shore, from the elephant and the lion to the porcupine 
 
150 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 and the rat. In northern Uguha and Ugoma the 
 soko (gorilla ?) inhabits the forest jungle ; on the 
 east coast the more open park-like country abounds 
 with vast herds of antelope, buffalo, zebra, etc. 
 Every place is full of life and beauty, showing forth 
 the wonder and riches of the works of God. 
 
 So indeed is this great and wide sea, the lake itself, 
 wherein are things creeping innumerable, both small 
 and great beasts. From the tiny whitebait to the 
 oily singa (silurus) of six feet in length, the fish are 
 very abundant, and nearly all good for food. 
 Myriads of medusae often appear near the surface ; 
 shrimps are caught and eaten by the natives ; 
 frogs, crabs, leeches, sirens large and small, and at 
 least two kinds of snakes, inhabit the waters. Float- 
 ing on the surface, hidden amongst the rocks and 
 pebbles, or burrowing in the sand and mud, I 
 collected about thirty different kinds of shellfish : 
 from the mussel five inches long to the tiny univalve 
 like a pin's head. Many of them are quite new 
 to science, the most unique being the Typliobia Jiorei, 
 described as " perhaps the most remarkable fresh- 
 water shell ever discovered." Free of land and lake 
 alike, in many a quiet bay and creek, the Nile tor- 
 toise and the otter are found ; and, in large numbers 
 on every side, the crocodile and hippopotamus — 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 the one, with no rival, may well be called 
 
 THE LORD OF THE LAKE, 
 
 and the other, most appropriately, 
 
 THAT LEVIATHAN" THAT PLAYETH THEREIN. 
 
152 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 On those parts of the lake shore which are the 
 haunts of man there are two distinct kinds of scene. 
 In the more unsettled regions, where, from long and 
 sad experience, all strangers are viewed with sus- 
 picion, native villages, with houses in close array 
 within stockades, are seen perched upon peninsulas 
 and other easily-defended positions ; their stores of 
 corn and dried fish stacked upon rocky islets, and 
 their canoes drawn up amongst the rocks close by. 
 
 In happier countries mile after mile of scattered 
 houses, peeping out from amongst groves of bananas, 
 indicate peace and plenty ; and wide-stretching fields 
 of corn and cassava are spread over the country. 
 Here and there an open space is preserved for the 
 market, to which the natives of both sexes and all 
 ages may be seen hurrying by land and lake, to 
 barter their various produce — oil, mats, fish, salt, 
 goats, honey, and all kinds of wares ; along the 
 beach are lightly drawn up canoes of all sizes, cut 
 out of the solid log, and the little catamaran of the 
 fisherman — the whole array of African life alike in 
 its saddest and its most peaceful aspect. 
 
 Around the lake shores are twelve distinct tribes 
 of people. From the north end, proceeding south- 
 wards down the east coast, and so on north along 
 the west coast, the following is the order of these : 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 153 
 
 TRIBES, AND THEIR COUNTRIES. 
 
 Tribes. 
 
 Countries. 
 
 Wazige 
 
 Uzige. 
 
 Warundi 
 
 Urundi. 
 
 W'aj i j i 
 
 Ujiji. 
 
 Watongwe 
 
 Utongwe. 
 
 Wafipa 
 
 Ufipa. 
 
 Walungu 
 
 Ulungu. 
 
 Waitawa 
 
 Uitawa. 
 
 Warungu 
 
 Umarungu 
 
 Waguha 
 
 Uguha. 
 
 Wagoma 
 
 Ugoma. 
 
 Wabwari 
 
 Ubvvari. 
 
 Warns anzi 
 
 Umsanzi. 
 
 The Wazige occupy, in the extreme north-west, 
 a coast-line of about 30 miles. They have a 
 powerful independent chief; they are an active and 
 bold people, having connection and dealings rather 
 inland with other well -organised tribes lying west 
 of the Nyanzas than with those of the shores of 
 Tanganyika, except the Warundi, with whom they 
 are in close relation, and whom they much resemble. 
 
 Urundi, with a coast-line of 80 miles, extends 
 also some considerable distance north and east, 
 where its principal chief holds no mean position 
 amongst those powerful rulers who will have to be 
 dealt with in forming connection between Victoria 
 Nyanza and Tanganyika. The Warundi, living on 
 
154 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 the borders of the lake and having intercourse with 
 other lake tribes, seem, however, independent under 
 their local chiefs, and with local interests and affairs 
 separate from those inland. They are for the most 
 part of good height and shapely build, profusely 
 ornamented, and their bodies so continually smeared 
 with palm-oil, which they manufacture in large 
 quantities, as to give them a shining red polish. 
 They are famous fishermen, and use for this purpose, 
 as well as the ordinary log canoe, a peculiar raft, 
 unique upon the lake shore, consisting of a few 
 stems of the pith tree pegged together. Enclosed 
 on the north and south by the related tribes of Uzige 
 and Ujiji, and backed inland by their own powerful 
 people, the coast Warundi live in peace and prosper- 
 ity. Instead of being clustered together in fortified 
 villages, their homes are picturesquely scattered 
 amongst their rich fields and groves, aiding to form 
 some of the prettiest pictures on the lake shore. 
 And the great activity, extensive cultivation, and 
 busy markets of Urundi and Ujiji show well how the 
 Africans, when prosperous and protected, do not 
 become idle, but busy with many industries. 
 
 The Wajiji, with a coast-line to their country of 
 45 miles, closely resemble, and are closely allied to, 
 the Warundi, where their territories adjoin. To- 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 155 
 
 wards the south they are influenced, and their con- 
 tion modified, by the presence of the Arab and 
 Waswahili colony in Ugoy and Kawele, described 
 elsewhere as " Ujiji." The distinctive national 
 ornament of the Wajiji and Warundi is a beautifully 
 polished longitudinal section of hippopotamus tusk, 
 suspended upon the upper part of the breast by a 
 string round the neck. 
 
 A small tribal territory, Ukaranga, formerly 
 existed between Ujiji and Utongwe, i.e. between the 
 Ruiche and the Malagarasi Rivers, but its people 
 seem to have become merged in adjoining tribes, and 
 are now no longer to be distinguished. 
 
 Utongwe, with a coast of about 1 40 miles, extend- 
 ing from the Malagarasi to Karema, includes some 
 of the most beautiful country and grand scenery. 
 Many of the heights are well-nigh inaccessible from 
 the lake, into which numerous small rivers flow from 
 a great elevation, forming beautiful cascades and 
 falls. Related, as they are, to the Wanyamwezi, the 
 Watongwe are probably the most ancient people on 
 Tanganyika. In Unyamwezi proper, compacted 
 under the rule, on one hand, of the energetic chief 
 Mirambo, and on the other, of the Arab colony of 
 Unyanyembe, this race has developed industry and 
 many activities. The Utongwe branch, however, cut 
 
•56 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 off from those advantages, have degraded consider- 
 ably. Most of them are hunters, and where they 
 are gathered in villages their fortifications indicate 
 the unsettled state of society to which their back- 
 ward condition is due. The physical appearance of 
 these people forms a striking contrast to that of the 
 Wajiji. Dark and rough, with large bony frames, 
 clothed in ill-prepared skins, and with scarcely any 
 ornament, they have by no means a pleasing aspect. 
 But it must be remembered that they have suffered 
 from many raids, and have long been compelled to 
 stand on the defensive. Here and there, where they 
 have lived in peace for a time, I have seen clearly 
 that they are able to resume their native industries, 
 and become better conditioned in every way. The 
 friendly acquaintance made with the Watongwe in 
 the neighbourhood of the Musamwira River resulted 
 in the establishment of the Karema station of the 
 African International Association, since handed over 
 to the Roman Catholic Mission. 
 
 Ufipa, with a coast-line of 120 miles, is well 
 indented with little harbours, and two fine bays, off 
 one of which is a group of islands. It is a rich, 
 well-wooded country, ruled over by an influential 
 chief, Kapufi, and a fairly complete organisation of 
 local sub-chiefs. The order and strength thus main- 
 
THE HEART OE AFRICA 
 
 157 
 
 tained, the natural advantages of the country, and 
 busy energy of the people, secure a good measure of 
 peace and prosperity to the Wafipa, who are gathered 
 together in extensive villages surrounded by cultiva- 
 tion. The Wafipa are equally dark-skinned with 
 the Watongwe, but with a more manly bearing of 
 greater openness and self-respect, and are full-sized 
 and muscular. They are cheerful and industrious, 
 but inveterate slave-traders. Their canoes may 
 frequently be seen on adjoining coasts, engaged in 
 trade, or on hunting expeditions after hippopotami. 
 
 The country of Ulungu occupies the whole south 
 part of the lake, stretching, with a coast-line of at 
 least 100 miles, from the borders of Fipa to the 
 River Lofu. It was occupied at one time by the 
 important and intelligent chiefs Tifuna, Zombe, 
 Kitimbwa, and Chungu : the three last I have known 
 and visited. Dr. Livingstone describes the Walungu 
 as continually beset by the slave-hunting Mazitu or 
 Wawemba ; but at that time Tippu Tib, whom 
 Dr. Livingstone met there, exerted his influence to 
 put matters right, and for many years the Walungu 
 were freed from those attacks, under the protection 
 of a succession of Arab residents. A cheerful, active, 
 and musical people, they had, when I first visited 
 them, grown under these better influences into a 
 
153 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 prosperous condition ; but it must not be forgotten 
 that they themselves have always been great slave- 
 clealers. The Walungu are tall and slight compared 
 with the Wafipa, with the negroid characteristics less 
 marked. All the native African industries flourish 
 in their country, and the grass -like grain uleysi 
 is cultivated in circular forest clearings, as near 
 Nyassa. 
 
 Uitawa lies between the River Lofu and the 
 southern border of Umarungu, with a coast-line of 
 about 80 miles. The real natives are difficult to 
 trace, for half-caste traders and hunters, and the 
 descendants of colonists both from Unyamwezi and 
 Katanga, or, as it has been recently called, Garen- 
 ganza, 1 have mixed with the people. One or two 
 of the chiefs, however, in the southern part seemed 
 to be intelligent and respectable, and the position 
 of the country is favourable to form connection with 
 other missionary operations at Katanga. 
 
 Umarungu occupies 140 miles of the shore, 
 presenting for most of that distance a very bold 
 front to the lake. The people are darker and more 
 negro -like than the Walungu of the south, and 
 
 1 Garaganza is an old name for part of Unyamwezi, people of which 
 place have journeyed to, and settled down at, Katanga, applying to it, 
 as has been often done by colonists of other races, one of their own old 
 national names. 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 always have slaves to sell to traders from all parts. 
 The acquaintance with Europeans has resulted in the 
 settlement of another station, at Mpala, of the 
 African International Association, now held also by 
 the Roman Catholic Mission. 
 
 From the boundary of Umarungu to the north 
 side of the group of islands of which Kavala forms 
 one, Uguha has a coast-line of about 90 miles. Its 
 chief features are that bay of islands and the River 
 Lukuga, the outlet of the lake. It is probably but 
 a principality of the large country of Rua. The 
 YVaguha especially represent on Tanganyika the 
 west coast African natives. They are profuse in 
 personal adornments, the most noticeable being their 
 elaborate head-dresses, and many ornaments of shells, 
 beads, and brass and copper wire. Their houses, 
 although at first sight of an ugly outside shape, are 
 really very beautiful structures, built on a square plan, 
 tapering away from the top of the wall to the point 
 of the roof. Even in the smallest villages there is 
 an attempt to arrange the houses in regular rows or 
 streets. Very beautiful mats, basket-work, pottery, 
 wooden bowls, and various small carved work are 
 produced in Uguha. 
 
 The lofty and level horizon of the Ugoma hills is 
 one of the sights of the lake. For about half the 
 
i6o 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 year it is visible from Ujiji on a clear day, although 
 forty miles distant ; and the streams of water, 
 descending those lofty hillsides to the lake, may 
 be plainly seen like silver threads. The paths to 
 the villages, which are placed on the terraces of 
 those hills, are in some places mere flights of steps. 
 The most famous produce of the country are the 
 canoes, hewn out of the monster trees from the dense 
 forests on its heights. Though frequently molested 
 by other tribes, the Wagoma are an industrious and 
 spirited people ; rather slighter and smaller than the 
 Waguha, and wearing but scanty clothing and orna- 
 ment. Ugoma has a coast-line of about 70 miles. 
 
 The peninsula of Ubwari is one of the curiosities 
 of the lake : a little country, complete in itself, 
 formed of an isolated high mountainous ridge about 
 30 miles in length and 5 to 10 miles across, and 
 having, in the hollows and chasms of its top, several 
 interesting little lakelets. The Wabwari, in general 
 appearance, feature, and manner, are quite distinct 
 from other tribes. Considerably below the ordinary 
 stature, they are of a lighter colour than their 
 neighbours, and their limbs are very tapering, with 
 especially small hands and feet. Parties of W abwari 
 may be seen at intervals at Ujiji bringing small 
 quantities of ivory for sale, and probably slaves. 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 161 
 
 Opposite Ubwari, and from thence to Uzige, a 
 distance altogether of about 70 miles, is the country 
 I describe as Umsanzi. Two portions of it, how- 
 ever, Ubembe and Uvira, may be reckoned distinct 
 districts. The Wamsanzi are rather a rough-looking, 
 dark-skinned people, many of whom are of very 
 short stature, especially in Ubembe and Uvira, and 
 at several places I was told, that "just inside there," 
 i.e. farther back from the lake, " there are plenty of 
 dwarfs and cannibals." Hence a suspicion of can- 
 nibalism rests on these people, which makes them 
 shunned and disliked by the other lake tribes. 
 Considerable trade is carried on, especially at 
 Uvira, which has long been a sort of mart for the 
 periodical visits and residence of Arabs and Was- 
 wahili in search of ivory. In Uvira also the best 
 ironwork is produced. 
 
 Tanganyika, in the Swahili language, may be 
 translated " the mixture " — the coming together and 
 mingling in the lake cavity of the waters which 
 flow into it from every side down the slopes of its 
 containing basin. In like manner the various tribes 
 just described represent the races or families of 
 Africa, as though each, pushing forward toward the 
 interior, had mounted the inner heights, and, de- 
 scending into the central depression, ranged them- 
 
 M 
 
I 62 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 selves round the shores of Tanganyika. Side by 
 side still, but in much closer contact, the same races 
 are neighbours there as on the larger circumference 
 of the sea -coast ; but across the lake, each facing 
 some other of widely divergent character, complexion, 
 and language. Two instances will suffice to illustrate 
 this — the Negro, and the Mhuma, or Abyssinian type 
 of African. The negro race extends in unbroken 
 line from the western sea-coast to Tanganyika, where 
 they are represented by the Wamarungu, the Waguha, 
 and Wagoma. The section of Africa thus occupied 
 is one of those parts where the inner heights are so 
 broken down over the terrace that it is obliterated, 
 the whole forming one grand continuous slope from 
 the centre to the coast. Its inhabitants, in like 
 manner, exhibit a certain continuity of habits, 
 manners, and industries throughout, only modified 
 by the influence of foreigners and foreign things 
 near the coast. The Wahuma, represented on the 
 lake shores by the Warundi and Wajiji, show more 
 clearly the changes incident to more varying habitat. 
 Following this racial line from the barbarous civil- 
 isations and warlike aspect of its coast portions, we 
 find them on the plains of the terrace become 
 wandering nomads and cattle tenders ; farther on, 
 but still retaining their cattle, they are found 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 163 
 
 cultivating the ground, or settled as a shepherd 
 class amongst other cultivators ; and, finally, on 
 the lake shore, having found a permanent home, 
 while still retaining their cattle, have fully developed 
 or revived all the native industries of ironwork, 
 weaving, agriculture, etc., by which, as well as by 
 their features, we recognise their relationship with 
 the natives of the north-east coast. 
 
 Apart from diversity of race, manners, and 
 language, we find also this remarkable fact, that 
 along almost any section of Africa from coast to 
 centre, the farther that the traveller advances into the 
 interior the better is the condition of the natives found 
 to be : less drunkenness, less immorality — more 
 industry and independence. 1 
 
 These various interior natives, in their normal 
 condition, I would describe as infantile. In con- 
 fidence and suspicion, in easy anger and easy 
 reconciliation, in rapid demoralisation under evil 
 influences, in undeveloped intellect, in unenlightened 
 
 1 As of a portion of the west coast, Mr. Wilmot Brooke also writes : 
 " The people are like their country, dirty, degraded, and far from pre- 
 possessing ; ferocious cannibals for the most part, bound by countless 
 cruel superstitions, and last of all dragged lower still by their contact 
 with the white man. If we ascend the river [Niger] we very soon leave 
 the interlacing creeks and poisonous swamps of the delta behind. The 
 squalid villages are seen no more ; they are replaced by fine, clean, 
 open towns, with thousands of inhabitants, cannibalism is left behind, 
 and we enter a new world, physical, political, social, and religious." 
 
164 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 spiritual instincts, run into fetichism — in unknown yet 
 assuredly existing possibilities for good, they are 
 essentially children. They are adult neither in 
 wisdom nor in wickedness, but will become so as 
 they are trained. They live in families ; amongst 
 them the family tie and the rights of property are 
 regarded ; conscience pronounces criminal and offen- 
 sive the same irregularities of life and conduct as 
 are so regarded amongst civilised peoples ; in stature 
 and physical condition they come up to the best 
 standards. I argue that the life and condition 
 which, after isolation for thousands of years from 
 all we call civilised, presents this state of things, 
 can scarcely be called evil or degraded. Amongst 
 these people, both pastoral and agricultural, are to 
 be found in progress the germs at least of all 
 the useful arts ; the procuring and working of both 
 iron and copper, pottery-making, the spinning and 
 weaving of cotton cloth, the very beautiful develop- 
 ment of plaiting of all kinds of vegetable fibres into 
 string, rope, mats, basket, and cloth. And where 
 valuable materials and products are naturally con- 
 fined to particular localities, as is the case sometimes 
 with oil, salt, etc., it is there manufactured and 
 distributed into other countries. Too often are 
 people described as lacking in industry who are not 
 
THE HEART OF AFRICA 
 
 the same as ourselves ; but it seems to me ridiculous 
 that a man should be called " lazy " because he has 
 ample leisure between his busy times ; who has made 
 with his own hands, from Nature's absolutely raw 
 materials, his house, his axe, and hoe and spear, his 
 clothing and ornament, his furniture, his corn-mill, and 
 all the things that he has ; and who, though liable 
 often in a lifetime to have to commence that whole 
 process over again, has the energy and enterprise 
 to commence afresh. Too often have the same 
 people been called " savage " and " bloodthirsty," 
 who, through all experience and by all their tradi- 
 tion, getting naturally to regard unintroduced armed 
 strangers as enemies, have the same desperate energy 
 to defend themselves and their own which, as dis- 
 played by our own ancestral relations, we love to 
 term patriotism and courage. 
 
 In the fetichism of the Africans we may see the 
 childlike outcome of an instinctive spiritual belief, 
 rarely presenting any opposition or great difficulty 
 to Christian teaching, which indeed, intelligently 
 presented, comes to them as a revelation of the God 
 they have already been ignorantly worshipping or 
 seeking after. 
 
 No mere opinion, however, bears the weight of 
 testimony, of simple relation of experience. Now 
 
1 66 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 as marine surveyor, navigator, and missionary I 
 have many times sailed along and visited the tribes 
 living on the iooo miles of shore of Tanganyika, 
 and three several times lived for two years at 
 different places there in the process of making 
 first acquaintance with those natives and building 
 stations in their countries. Over and over again 
 I have been surrounded by levelled spears and 
 drawn bows, whence, if I hastily passed on or 
 returned, I should but have to report of the " savage 
 opposition " of those tribes ; but, waiting to investi- 
 gate and explain, or trusting to the friendly results 
 of their investigation, I have lived to prove that 
 their action was but courageously defensive, and to 
 report that, in all my voyages and travels in Central 
 Africa, I have slain no man, nor received mark or 
 wound from African weapon or missile. Indeed of 
 many of them it is only common justice to say, 
 " and the barbarous people showed us no little 
 kindness, and, when we departed, they laded us 
 with such things as were necessary." 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 " But we glory in tribulations also." 
 
2 9 
 
 3°° 
 
 UZIGE MugStfhewa 
 
 h\fitlatiiba 
 Uvici/. \ 
 
 Stan/orcTs Geogl Estab 1 . Londot* 
 THE SEA OF UJIJI." 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 1880-1882 
 
 S already narrated in Chapter IV., from the 
 
 JTx. committee meeting at Ujiji in October 1880 
 our brethren separated again to their several stations, 
 while I was to return to England to report and 
 make plans for the new vessel for the lake. 
 
 Mr. Wookey, who was now to take charge of the 
 Ujiji station, was duly introduced to all our Arab and 
 native friends, accounts and stores handed over, and 
 preparations were made for the return journey. 
 Specimens of native manufactures and other curi- 
 osities were packed up for exhibition in England, and 
 a wheel constructed, with a trocheameter attached, 
 to measure the road. 
 
 On 3d November 1880 the .start was made. 
 Numerous friends assembled to bid me farewell, and 
 Mr. Wookey accompanied me a short distance out 
 of the town. In addition to the necessary carriers, I 
 
170 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 was accompanied by a number of the men who had 
 come up with Messrs. Wookey and Palmer, making 
 altogether a party of over sixty, all in good trim and 
 anxious for a quick journey. The pleasure of a 
 return to England, the satisfaction and thankfulness 
 in looking back at the establishment of the mission 
 in the interior, the joy of passing down through four 
 flourishing mission stations on the road which three 
 years ago had been to us a track of almost unalloyed 
 barbarism and ignorance, served to make the march 
 a pleasant one ; although, owing to the time of year, 
 it was not without an occasional experience of hunger 
 and thirst and many hot, wearying marches that it 
 was accomplished. A few days along the road I 
 overtook Messrs. Southon and Williams and travelled 
 on with them. 
 
 On 2 1st November Urambo was reached. Wind- 
 ing round a hillside, we came rather suddenly upon 
 the station, situated on a gentle eminence — a large 
 compound divided into two parts. The chief por- 
 tion, entered through a wooden gateway, leads, by a 
 straight path lined with banana trees, which also 
 mark out all the lines of the compound, to the 
 mission -house — a moderate-sized square building, 
 with double front and a verandah. Neat Venetian 
 shutters and window frames gave it quite a civilised 
 
THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 171 
 
 appearance, and, whitewashed within and without, 
 and having a high thatched roof, it was not unlike 
 an English country cottage. The neat inside arrange- 
 ments of central passage and four rooms aided the 
 effect. Behind the house were a deep well, and the 
 saw-pit, where timber from the neighbouring forest 
 was cut up into workable portions. The other half 
 of the compound held the domestic offices and a 
 few hospital huts ; the whole representing an in- 
 dustrious year's work by Dr. Southon, who had 
 established this station. 
 
 Sloping down from the front of the house, the 
 whole country-side spreads out from here in a 
 magnificent view of undulating plain and hill dotted 
 with villages and groves of palms and other trees. 
 Most conspicuous was the large square tembe already 
 described, and, rising above its walls, the high peaked 
 roof of Mirambo's new house. 
 
 The next day Mirambo called to see us, and 
 though the mission services and school were not 
 yet resumed, it was very pleasing to see the friendly 
 terms on which our missionary was living with the 
 great chief himself. 
 
 Resuming the journey on the 24th, four days' 
 march brought us to Uyui, where a station had been 
 established by the Church Missionary Society, a neat 
 
172 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 little group of houses where Messrs. Litchfield and 
 Copplestone were already busily engaged amongst 
 the Wanyamwezi of that part. Here we met also 
 two other brethren, Messrs. O'Flaherty and Stokes, 
 on their way to Uganda. 
 
 A short march on the 30th and a long one on 
 1st December brought us to Unyanyembe, where I 
 was received most hospitably by the Arab governor, 
 Abdulla-bin-Nassib, and his brother Sheik Nassib. 
 The governor had a large official residence, with a 
 tall staff in front for the flag of the Sultan of Zanzibar, 
 whom Abdulla represented there. 
 
 A hall -like room with a few mirrors and clocks, 
 three or four chairs, a table, and a carpet, gave it 
 quite a civilised appearance. Here I was received 
 in state, and with many expressions of friendship to 
 our mission. 
 
 I also visited M. Sergere, a French trader repre- 
 senting a firm in Zanzibar, who was stationed here, 
 but had soon afterwards to retire, unable to compete 
 with the commercial combination of the Arabs all 
 against him. A somewhat similar attempt on the 
 part of Germans years afterwards suffered the same 
 fate, but with more tragic results to its representatives, 
 owing to the growing discontent amongst the Arabs 
 at what they viewed as European aggression on 
 
THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 173 
 
 their old trading rights. Finally, I was put up most 
 hospitably by Dr. Vandenheuvel, a gentleman who 
 was then trying to establish an agency there for the 
 African International Association. 
 
 Plunging once again into the more difficult 
 passage of the Magunda Mkali and the plains of 
 Ugogo, we experienced some hardship from drought 
 and scarcity of food. At one camp in the first part 
 we suffered severely from thirst, and I experienced 
 an instance of self-denial on the part of my men 
 which I shall never forget. On arriving at our in- 
 tended camp not a drop of water was to be found, 
 and we were compelled, thirsty and tired, to make 
 another forced march. We arrived at last, knocked 
 up and parched, at the expected water-hole — a deep 
 conical pit. The men formed in line down the side 
 of the pit to hand up the water, to receive which a 
 little calabash basin was placed right in the bottom 
 and the sand around it carefully scooped away ; 
 drop after drop slowly trickled in till about half a 
 pint was obtained, but no more could be got. This, 
 however, instead of being drunk up by the man who 
 got it, or by others to whom it was handed, was 
 faithfully brought along and given to me, and the 
 pangs of thirst had to be endured till next day. 
 About ten days afterwards I was able to repay them. 
 
174 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 The governor of Unyanyembe had given me, as a 
 special treat, a little bag of wheat-meal, which I 
 carefully preserved for any emergency. Crossing 
 the other difficult piece of country, the Marenga 
 Alkali, before reaching Mpwapwa we came to camp 
 half-way without any food for the men. For many 
 days we had all been on short commons, and still a 
 stiff march lay between us and Mpwapwa. The 
 men were dead-beat and hungry, thirsty, and almost 
 despairing, and sat disconsolately about without heart 
 even to build the usual shelters. I brought out the 
 bag of meal and superintended the cooking of a big 
 mess of porridge for all hands that served to give 
 them courage for the next day's march. 
 
 At Mpwapwa, on Christmas Eve, I got a hearty 
 welcome from Messrs. Baxter, Price, and Cole, with 
 whom I spent Christmas Day and Sunday, a truly 
 welcome intercourse. Here I had the intense satis- 
 faction of witnessing the direct preaching of the 
 Gospel to some of the wild Wagogo, and the tender 
 Christian care of the missionaries for certain poor 
 women and children, fugitive slaves who would other- 
 wise have perished. Near at hand, in a lonely spot 
 at the foot of a forest-clad hillside, is the grave of 
 Dr. Mullens, from which may be seen the pointed 
 end of the little church where the Gospel is preached 
 
THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 i/5 
 
 to the natives, and from which the bell may be heard 
 to the sound of which they gather to worship. 
 
 In eight days more I once again trod the sands 
 of the Indian Ocean ; but first at the beautiful 
 little mountain station of Mamboia (of the C.M.S.) 
 I saw an assembly of the Wasagara listening to the 
 word of God in the little church at that place. Here 
 also another party of the C.M.S. were halted on 
 their way up country — Messrs. Taylor and Biddle- 
 combe. 
 
 Altogether on this return journey I had met on 
 their four stations, or journeying to the interior, thir- 
 teen Christian missionaries — a hopeful and significant 
 fact in regard to the advance made since we first 
 passed up country, and for future extended work. 
 
 On the 3d January 1881 we entered Saadani 
 after a march of 33^ miles ; the ever-hospitable 
 Bwana Heri provided a house and food and engaged 
 a dhow to take us over to Zanzibar. The measuring- 
 wheel had recorded 836-^ miles from Ujiji, which 
 had been accomplished in 307 hours, on 50 days, 
 averaging nearly 1 7 miles each, which, with 1 2 halts 
 or rests, made a journey of 62 days. 
 
 At home in England a belief - in the possibility 
 of missionary enterprise in Central Africa, a belief 
 that our mission so far was a success, inspired its 
 
176 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 friends with hope and moved them to continued 
 action. Men and means for its continuance were 
 forthcoming, and it only remained to arrange the 
 details in accordance with the experience already 
 gained. 
 
 And this faith was to be sorely tried in the 
 troubles of the ensuing eighteen months, a time of 
 much tribulation. 
 
 After nearly six months' stay at Ujiji, worn down 
 by repeated fevers, Mr. Wookey found it necessary 
 to retire; leaving that place on 23d March 188 1, 
 he reached Zanzibar on 8th June, and returned to 
 England. 
 
 On 26th June Dr. Palmer, in consequence also 
 of failing health, came away from Uguha on his way 
 home, arriving at Zanzibar on 30th September. 
 
 On 24th September Rev. D. Williams died from 
 the effects of sunstroke at Urambo. 
 
 Mr. Hutley, who had made the longest stay in 
 the country of any one then connected with the 
 mission, having a large share in its first few years of 
 exceptional hardship, opposition, and success, and who 
 had removed to Urambo in the hope that under the 
 care of Dr. Southon he might regain health, and 
 also to complete some building that was required at 
 that place, continued so unwell that his return also 
 
THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 177 
 
 became necessary. Leaving Urambo on 7th Novem- 
 ber, he also made his way to England. 
 
 News was also received of serious damage to the 
 Calabash, which, being left lying at anchor off Ujiji 
 during rough weather, was torn away from her anchor 
 and cable and almost broken up on the beach. 
 
 The death of Dr. Southon, although not occur- 
 ring till the following year, took place really in the 
 same era, before reinforcements had arrived, leaving 
 Mr. Griffiths the only survivor in the field. But 
 in December 1881 news arrived in England of Mr. 
 Griffiths' condition being such that it was feared 
 that he also must soon retire. Indeed, he pro- 
 ceeded as far as Urambo on his way home, but was 
 induced to return to the lake for a time till the 
 newly-arrived missionaries could take up the work. 
 
 But amid all this darkness there were gleams 
 of light. 
 
 In connection with the failure of so many men, 
 it should be remembered that all those who thus 
 returned are, so far as it is known, still living, and 
 engaged in various spheres of Christian labour in 
 parts of the world for which their constitutions are 
 more suitable, — -that Dr. Southon died from the 
 effects of an accident, which might have occurred in 
 any part of the world, and that the death of Mr. 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Williams at Urambo, after all, was the only one that 
 could in any way be ascribed to the climate of 
 Central Africa ; but it did not impair confidence 
 in the healthiness of that place. Arising as it did 
 from exposure, while unwell and delirious, to an 
 exceptionally hot sun, it was rather of the nature 
 of an accident. 
 
 And in connection with the lives, the works, and 
 the deaths of these our comrades, and the history 
 during this time of trouble of the three stations 
 which had been the scenes of their labours, there 
 is much of brightness to be remembered. 
 
 At Urambo, although his removal had left Dr. 
 Southon once more alone to cope with the work, Mr. 
 Williams, during the short time he lived there, had 
 much aided the good work by gaining the con- 
 fidence and respect of those among whom he hoped 
 to labour, adding further testimony to the power 
 of Christian life and effort amongst the darkest 
 heathen. Friends at home testified that he possessed 
 in a high degree qualities which go to form a true 
 missionary, and was looking forward hopefully to 
 a long career of useful labour. The chief Mirambo 
 a long time afterwards, referring to him, said : 
 " Unfortunately Bwana Williams did not live long, 
 but we loved him. He was our friend, and if he had 
 
THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 179 
 
 lived till now all my people would have loved him 
 as a brother." 
 
 Dr. Southon died on the 26th July 1882 from 
 the effects of a gun accident whilst walking home 
 with some of his men on the 3d. For three days 
 he was without any European aid ; Mr. Copplestone 
 of the C.M.S. then arrived, and with his help 
 the wounded arm was amputated. On the 1 6th 
 Dr. Bohn from Ugunda arrived, and another opera- 
 tion was performed, but fatal weakness had already 
 set in, and Dr. Southon gradually sank, and on the 
 26th he passed away. 
 
 In numerous letters and other records, as well as 
 in intercourse with Mr. Copplestone, who tended him 
 with brotherly care during his illness and up to the 
 hour of his death, he gave glorious testimony of his 
 devotion to the work to which he had given himself, 
 of his faith in Christ and resignation to the will of 
 God. 
 
 From all sides there comes testimony of the 
 faithful life, the busy, persevering work, and earnest 
 Christian character of Dr. Southon. The opinion 
 of his co-workers, both at home and abroad, was 
 fittingly summarised in a resolution of the Board 
 of Directors " to record the deep' sorrow with which 
 they received the sad tidings of the death of their 
 
i8o 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 devoted and highly-esteemed friend and missionary 
 Dr. Southon, in the prime of life and in the midst 
 of active and very useful work in the difficult field 
 of Central Africa. While they are thankful that 
 fever, which has been so fatal amongst those who 
 have shared in the labour and peril of commencing 
 that mission, was not in this instance the cause of 
 death, they deeply mourn the loss so soon of one 
 who by energy, tact, and the uniform exhibition 
 of the spirit of the Christian, and also by a broad 
 and wise discharge of his duties as a medical 
 missionary, had succeeded in laying, in the confidence 
 and friendly feeling of the natives, and particularly 
 of the chief Mirambo, a solid foundation for Christian 
 work, not of this Society alone, but also of other 
 societies who are seeking to diffuse the true light 
 in the Dark Continent. W hile bowing in Christian 
 submission to the will of Him who has removed 
 their friend from the ranks of active workers upon 
 earth, they would express their heartfelt thanks to 
 the Head of the Church who led Dr. Southon to 
 devote himself to the work of the Society in Central 
 Africa, and animated and guided him through his 
 short but very valuable course of service at Urambo, 
 and who, while allowing a very serious accident thus 
 early to terminate his life, by His grace threw 
 
THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 1S1 
 
 a divine glow over the setting of his earthly sun, 
 and in him showed to the heathen the trust and 
 peace of a Christian's death." 
 
 Of the progress of the work at Urambo during 
 this interval, and up to the death of Dr. Southon, the 
 following brief extracts from some of his reports will 
 serve to give a glance : 
 
 During the last twelve months more than 1600 persons have 
 received medicine, surgical assistance, and advice from 
 me personally at the mission-house. On the whole, 
 the results of treatment have been good, as only in 28 
 cases have the patients received no benefit, and a large 
 proportion have been permanently cured of the diseases 
 they were suffering from. 
 
 Generally speaking, the principles upon which 
 medicine is given gratuitously are explained to the 
 patients, so that none may imagine that Mirambo's 
 influence, or any pecuniary consideration, prompts us 
 in this matter. In this way the objects of the Mission 
 and the direct work of the missionary are made known ; 
 and as the patients come from long distances for treat- 
 ment and advice, they in returning carry with them 
 this knowledge, which we believe has a good effect 
 upon all who hear it, and will greatly help to facilitate 
 further operations which may in future be contem- 
 plated. Occasionally instances of ingratitude and non- 
 appreciation of our services have transpired, but as 
 a rule patients are grateful and well satisfied with the 
 treatment they receive. During Last month I was sent 
 for to visit the wife of an influential chief at a neigh- 
 bouring town. I found the poor woman in the last 
 stages of dysentery, and immediately made active 
 
1 82 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 exertions to save her life, which had been despaired of 
 by her husband and friends. Under God's blessing the 
 woman recovered, and is now quite well ; but during 
 her illness it was my custom to visit her almost daily, 
 and on these occasions to talk to the people assembled 
 on religious subjects. 
 
 Mirambo is beginning to see that we are really 
 what we profess to be, and that our work here is quite 
 a disinterested one. He also values our services, and 
 strives in many ways to show his appreciation of them. 
 His friendship is, I think, one that will not grow less, 
 so long as we do nothing to forfeit it ; but of course he 
 is yet " only a savage," and consequently we must not 
 expect too much from him. 
 
 And a year after : 
 
 Evangelistic efforts have during the year been made in 
 every direction round about Urambo. Most of the large 
 towns have been visited at least once, and a systematic 
 course of instruction carried out. The magic lantern 
 has proved of great service on these occasions, and by 
 its aid the truths of the Bible and the teachings of our 
 Lord have been illustrated. Many of the smaller 
 villages have been itinerated, and, though in a feeble 
 way, Christ and Him crucified has been preached to the 
 people. 
 
 A school for boys was begun in October last, and 
 though only opening with five, there were thirteen 
 on the books before the end of the month, the aver- 
 age attendance being eight. During November and 
 December fifteen more were added, which swelled the 
 total to twenty-eight. Most of the boys are sons or 
 dependants of influential chiefs, and, generally speaking, 
 they are sharp, active lads, of from ten to fourteen years 
 
THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 1S3 
 
 of age. They are very docile and eager to learn ; hence, 
 though laborious, it is a pleasure to teach them. 
 Three of the boys are nearly through Bishop Steere's 
 First Kiswahili Reader, and eight of the others know 
 the alphabet thoroughly. Four are in the first stages of 
 addition, and eight are learning to write. 
 
 In Uguha also, although Mr. Griffiths seemed 
 compelled to give up before very long, progress was 
 being made. These strange heathen people proved 
 to have many instinctive ideas of a spiritual existence, 
 which enabled them readily to accept the revelation 
 of a God of love, and our missionaries had been 
 treated with friendship and hospitality. 
 
 Amongst other accounts of his work Mr. Griffiths 
 wrote : 
 
 The people have long wondered at us ; they have also 
 feared us ; but now they gradually come to consider us 
 as their best friends. I observed with pleasure this 
 growth of confidence on my last journeys through various 
 districts of Uguha. The chiefs, big and small, were 
 most attentive and hospitable. 
 
 The people were told at first that if they sent their 
 children to us they would be taught to read and write 
 and to do varied and useful work, and now they are 
 responding to our call. I secured some months ago 
 an Uguha boy as servant, and he has proved invaluable 
 to me. Since then Kasanga has sent a boy to be 
 taught ; and Kigombo, an Mrua chief, has sent his 
 mwana (son) to receive the benefits - of instruction : 
 a response from a most unexpected quarter. 
 
 Another boy, the child of the head man of Kabulwe, 
 
TANGANYIKA 
 
 will be taken to instruct on our return from Ujiji, and 
 boys from Mtowa have been under occasional instruc- 
 tion. 
 
 It cheers us greatly that our calls are responded to. 
 . . . To individuals I have been able to speak in a 
 brief manner of some of the great articles of our faith, 
 and what has been imparted only creates in them a 
 thirst for more. So the seeds of truth are sown, and 
 may the God of all truth cause every seed to spring up, 
 and grant us speedily a great and abundant harvest, to 
 His own glory. 
 
 Further experience in this locality had also 
 enabled Mr. Griffiths to choose a more healthy 
 permanent site for the station, at a place called 
 Butonga, high up on the hills overlooking the lake, 
 but still only one hour's walk inland ; and here 
 more substantial premises were erected. Before 
 Mr. Griffiths left he had already begun printing, 
 with the press kindly sent out by Miss Baxter, a 
 few sheets of alphabets, and commenced the process 
 of teaching the young, which it is hoped will result, 
 in God's own time, in their being able to read the 
 whole Book for themselves. 
 
 At Ujiji, although not one of our brethren now 
 remained to represent us there, the mission - house 
 remained. Some native helpers had been so far 
 trained both in caravan work and our rules of con- 
 duct towards the people of Ujiji and those whose 
 
THROUGH MUCH TRIBULATION 
 
 '85 
 
 countries we passed through on the way thither, 
 that it became possible to entrust to their care the 
 caravan of supplies which it was necessary to send 
 up in 1 88 1. Under the leadership of one of these, 
 Juma-bin-Nasibu, this caravan passed successfully 
 to Ujiji with those supplies, and Juma then remained 
 in charge of the mission-house till the arrival of the 
 new party of missionaries in February 1883. 
 
 These various indications of hope and brightness 
 amidst the gloom were recognised at home amongst 
 both the supporters and the directors of the Society, 
 who, through all these troubles, seemed to be speci- 
 ally inspired with determination to go forward. 
 
 A resolution was passed expressing determination 
 to carry on the Mission more energetically than 
 before, which met with the hearty sympathy and 
 approval of the Society's friends, accompanied by 
 several special donations for the purpose ; or, as one 
 wrote, " as a token of sympathy with the resolution 
 of the directors not to abandon nor to contract the 
 Mission to Central Africa, but rather to strengthen it 
 by a reinforcement of men and by more careful and 
 thorough adaptation to the necessities imposed by 
 climate and other circumstances." 
 
 No chastening for the present seefneth to be 
 joyous, but grievous ; nevertheless, afterward it 
 
TANGANYIKA 
 
 yiclcleth the peaceable fruit of righteousness unto 
 them which are exercised thereby. Wherefore lift 
 up the hands which hang down, and the feeble 
 knees ; and make straight paths for your feet, lest 
 that which is lame be turned out of the way ; but 
 let it rather be healed. In this spirit it was deter- 
 mined not to despair, but to follow on ; indeed, there 
 seemed quite a revival of interest in the Mission, 
 under which the two new vessels for Tanganyika 
 were prepared. In response to special appeals, new 
 workers offered themselves to fill the vacancies, and 
 detailed preparations were set on foot for a large 
 expedition of reinforcements to re-occupy the stations 
 and still further extend the work. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 " Be strong and of a good courage ; be not afraid, neither be thou 
 dismayed: for the Lord thy God is with thee whithersoever thou goest." 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 1882-18S3 
 
 HE design for our missionary vessel was on a 
 
 1 liberal scale. The ample funds provided, 
 and the liberal donation by Mr. G. S. Goodwin of 
 Liverpool of his services as marine architect in the 
 design and building, secured to us a first-class vessel 
 of best material and form, and specially suited to the 
 service. The Habari Ngema (Good News), built 
 of the best mild steel, with deck and all woodwork 
 of Indian teak, is an auxiliary screw steam yacht 
 54 feet long by 12 feet beam, strongly built and 
 fitted as for sea service. Two masts, with rigging 
 and sails ketch rigged, make her a complete sailing 
 vessel, and the internal fittings secure safety and 
 comfort. 
 
 The whole material, fittings, machinery, and out- 
 fit, in small pieces suitable for overland transport, and 
 marked and numbered for re-erection, — a mass of 
 
TANGANYIKA 
 
 material weighing altogether about fourteen tons, — 
 was delivered to the care of the African Lakes 
 Company for despatch to the south end of Tan- 
 ganyika by their Quilimane and Nyassa route. 
 
 For the immediate progress of the work, however, 
 another smaller craft would be required that could 
 be conveyed to Ujiji with the party about to start. 
 For this purpose I designed the JSIorning Star, a life- 
 boat built also of mild steel and galvanised, 3 2 feet 
 long and 8 feet beam. She was built in sections and 
 pieces to be eventually bolted together. Two masts 
 and sails (jib, lug, and mizzen) and eight oars com- 
 pleted a most efficient and safe boat, which afterwards 
 proved most valuable and seaworthy through years 
 of rough work and rough weather on Tanganyika. 
 
 In designing this boat I set out with these prin- 
 ciples : 
 
 1. That strains due to the sectional construction 
 should not add to the strains to which the parts 
 would be subjected by ordinary use of the boat. 
 
 2. That in no case should the sectional joint run 
 through the whole boat ; this was prevented by 
 joints of keel and gunwale being made at different 
 places from the main joints. 
 
 3. That the sections should be dipped in the 
 galvanising bath after construction. 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 4. The fore and aft compartments were to be 
 complete tanks, to secure buoyancy. 
 
 Messrs. Forrestt and Sons (although various small 
 details were not carried out) produced from this 
 design, as regards the hull, material, and workman- 
 ship, a very fine, substantial boat. 
 
 The portable boats of the Nile flotilla and others 
 for use of various travellers have since been built 
 somewhat on these lines, but not always needing for 
 light river work the same strength and weight. 
 
 Many other details of camp equipage, etc., re- 
 quired careful consideration. Our tents, made by 
 Benjamin Edgington, were all of the pattern perfected 
 by Dr. Southon of Urambo, and I tried for the first 
 time on the largest tent the green canvas that has 
 since become so famous for this purpose. 
 
 For the protection of our cloth bales, and also for 
 travelling-bags for clothes, bedding, and effects, I 
 had real sailcloth bags made, fastening with a large 
 shackle, taking a lock and affording at the same time 
 a handle for the grasp of the African porter. 
 
 Provisions for the community on the road, and 
 for individuals on arrival at their stations, were care- 
 fully calculated, and packed, marked, and numbered, 
 and many other details and arrangements which 
 long experience enabled me to perfect. 
 
192 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 To me personally also this expedition was the 
 commencement of a new era in the work to which I 
 had given all my energies, and which I had always 
 regarded as the most important work of my life. 
 
 On my first visit the survey of the lake and the 
 report as to the needful means of securing safe and 
 efficient navigation had been my special department, 
 resulting in due time in the provision of these two 
 vessels for that purpose. Thus equipped, and with 
 their building and management committed to my 
 care by the directors of the Society, I saw before me 
 as the end and reward of my labours, if so be I 
 should still be spared and be able to persist and 
 continue, the complete achievement of the original 
 design of making the great central lake of Africa a 
 highway for the gospel of God's love in this dark 
 place of the earth. 
 
 In the spring of 1882 the expedition of reinforce- 
 ments was got together. Representing what had 
 a year before been a determination to continue the 
 work and reinforce those already in the field, it had 
 now become, under the circumstances recorded in 
 the last chapter, and the increased interest and zeal 
 following thereon, a powerful effort to fill up the 
 gaps in the Mission staff and also to extend the work. 
 
 The outfit, both personal and official, could now 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 193 
 
 be better calculated on the experience already gained. 
 Very much in proportion to our efficient clothing, 
 feeding, and housing, was our efficiency also for 
 endurance and success in the work in hand. 
 
 For travellers about to pass through Africa, and, 
 after a year or two of adventure, come again to the 
 refreshment of European society, light outfit and 
 supplies may be sufficient ; but for missionaries, 
 whose journey's end is but the beginning of years of 
 life and work in the interior, more elaborate provision 
 is absolutely necessary. 
 
 I was appointed leader of the expedition, accom- 
 panied by the following new workers : 
 
 The Rev. J. H. Dineen. 
 „ D. P. Jones. 
 „ J. Penry. 
 „ T. F. Shaw. 
 
 „ W. C. WlLLOUGHBY. 
 
 Mrs. HORE and little 
 
 Jack. 
 Mr. A. J. Swann. 
 
 „ A. Brooks. 
 
 „ J. Dunn. 
 
 The accompanying outfit consisted, first, of a 
 year's supplies for Messrs. Southon and Griffiths 
 and their stations ; provisions and outfit for travel of 
 all the new party, and stores for residence in the 
 interior, calculated to last at least a year for each of 
 them ; the lifeboat and her complete outfit, as well as a 
 considerable part of the outfit of the 'marine depart- 
 ment in respect of both the vessels ; and subsequently, 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 from Zanzibar, the still more bulky mass of cloth and 
 other barter for expedition, station, and private use. 
 
 The official instructions provided for the progress 
 of the whole party to Ujiji, dropping the Urambo 
 brethren and their goods by the way : Messrs. Shaw 
 and Willoughby to reinforce Urambo, Messrs. Jones 
 and Penry the station in Uguha, and the rest to 
 proceed to the south end of the lake, there to receive 
 the material of the Good News from the African 
 Lakes Company and build that vessel, at the same 
 time laying the foundation of a new station in that 
 neighbourhood in response to the invitation of the 
 chief Zombe. 
 
 For an undertaking of such extent a distinct 
 organisation was necessary, as well for the division 
 of duties amongst ourselves as for the conduct of the 
 caravan itself. The plan of arrangements which I 
 drew up for this purpose is here inserted as both de- 
 scriptive of the internal working of this expedition 
 and as being perhaps useful to future parties of 
 similar nature. 
 
 DIVISION OF WORK AND DUTIES 
 
 IN 
 
 L.M.S. CARAVAN OF JULV 1882. 
 
 Messrs. Brooks and Dunn will undertake the erection of the 
 tents at each camp and the placing therein all the bag- 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 195 
 
 gage in daily use, so that the rest of the party may on 
 entering camp proceed at once to their various duties, or 
 have the rest that their work on the road may have ren- 
 dered necessary : this is a most important duty, on which 
 the comfort of the partyin camp much depends. (Messrs. 
 Shaw, Penry, and Jones, however, being the permanent 
 vanguard, must take the responsibility of the selection 
 and arrangement of the camp site, and the tents are 
 then to be erected by Messrs. D. and B. as may be 
 convenient.) 
 
 They will also see that the men appointed to that duty 
 cut, prepare, and place the wood or other dunnage for 
 stowage of the loads on the spot selected, and assist Mr. 
 Swann as he may direct in the work of stowage, open- 
 ing and repairing of packages, etc. They will have 
 the care of the road tools, which should be clean, 
 sharp, and at hand when wanted ; and also keep in 
 repair all camp furniture and utensils. Proper men 
 will be told off for the work enumerated, who for all 
 purposes of that work will be under the supervision of 
 Messrs. B. and D. 
 
 On the road, the tents and baggage having been 
 packed up and sent off, Messrs. B. and D. will be able to 
 assist generally with the porters as may be required ; 
 facilities will then be given them to move on to the 
 front in time to arrive at the camping-place with the 
 vanguard, of which party the men carrying the gear of 
 their department will form part. As the journey pro- 
 ceeds the work will probably go smoother, and Messrs. 
 D. and B. will then travel in company with Messrs. 
 Shaw, Penry, and Jones. 
 Mr. Dineen will give us the benefit of his skill as Medical 
 Officer, and has also consented to keep and write up an 
 " Official Journal," or record of important events and 
 proceedings which it will be desirable to furnish to the 
 
196 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 directors, any member of the party being at liberty to 
 have such entries made therein as may be deemed of 
 sufficient importance for permanent and official record. 
 The " Journal " should include concise information from 
 "Muster-roll," "Store," and "Medical" departments, 
 arrivals, etc., and to be strictly an official record, open 
 to inspection at all times, and to be despatched to 
 mission-house in London on completion of journey. 
 
 As Medical Officer, Mr. Dineen will be able constantly 
 to represent us to the natives we travel amongst, and to 
 our own men, in a way most valuable to our progress 
 and to the Mission cause generally. Any case of 
 injury or sickness amongst our men should be at once 
 reported to Mr. D., and a convenient and regular time 
 will be appointed in camp for attention to such cases. 
 Amongst ourselves also we should give Mr. D. the best 
 chance to aid us by quickly obtaining his advice in any 
 threatened irregularity or sickness ; he will doubtless 
 be able also to give us valuable hints for preventive 
 measures, and also as to selection of camp sites and on 
 general hygiene. 
 
 On the road, Mr. D. will travel as permanent rear- 
 guard as long as such is necessary. 
 Messrs. Jones, Penry, and Shau have undertaken to minister 
 to us in the work of the Commissariat Dcpartme?it. The 
 cooking utensils, crockery, etc., will be in their charge, 
 together with such supplies of provisions, barter goods 
 (moneys for purchase of food), etc., as they may 
 from time to time draw from store. They will purchase 
 food, etc., as may be required, and have under their 
 charge the men appointed to the work of the depart- 
 ment ; our own personal attendants will also be required 
 to assist as stewards, taking their turn in order accord- 
 ing to the number required, and being during such 
 times, and for all purposes of the work of the depart- 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 197 
 
 ment, under the supervision of Messrs. J., P., and S. 
 Proper men will be told off for the carriage of the gear 
 and utensils of this department, who for all purposes of 
 that work will also be under the control of Messrs. J., 
 P., and S. 
 
 Messrs. J., P., and S. will be at liberty to make from 
 time to time any such reasonable regulations as may 
 be necessary for securing regularity of meal hours and 
 attendance thereat, and for securing order and economy 
 within their department. 
 
 On the road, they will form the permanent vanguard, 
 and under all ordinary circumstances push on with all 
 speed with the carriers appointed to their department to 
 the camping-place, when it will devolve upon them to 
 decide upon and plan the camp site in case such has not 
 been previously determined. 
 
 In case either of the above gentlemen may desire to 
 travel from time to time in the rear or other part of the 
 caravan, it will be always sufficient that any two of 
 them should travel as vanguard. 
 Mr. Swanris special duties during our journey have already 
 been clearly indicated to us by the directors [store- 
 keeper]. In his work especially the assistance and 
 co-operation of the whole party will be required, while 
 at the same time he must distinctly have charge of that 
 which is under his care. It is desirable that, with the 
 few exceptions of goods belonging to special depart- 
 ments and baggage in use, the whole of our stuff, 
 whether cargo, private property, or Society's property 
 or moneys, should form part of the store in Mr. Swann's 
 charge, from which can be drawn on application at 
 convenient times such private property, barter goods, 
 or departmental stores as may be required by the 
 owners or those in charge of departments, Mr. Swann 
 duly keeping account of the same. While the whole 
 
198 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 is in Mr. Swarm's charge as store, the goods are also 
 in his charge as packages [for transport], and he must 
 necessarily take a prominent part in directing and 
 supervising the work of the porters. 
 
 On the road, Mr. Swann will move about in the cara- 
 van as may be necessary for the conduct of his work. 
 Mr. Willoughby has undertaken to keep the muster-roll 
 and general accounts relating to our porters, their 
 names, pay, rations, etc., together with the serving out 
 of the latter, supplies of which he will draw as 
 required from store. He will be able at any time to 
 furnish us with particulars of men apportioned to the 
 several departments and duties, and will also have 
 a charge of the arms and ammunition necessary 
 for our men, supplies of which he will draw from 
 store as may be necessary. 
 
 On the road, Mr. W. is at liberty to travel in any 
 part of the caravan, and has kindly undertaken, 
 as far as possible, to accompany Mrs. Hore and little 
 Jack. 
 
 General. — Daily prayers are to be conducted in turn by 
 each member of the party immediately after the first 
 meal in camp, and public worship on Sundays to be 
 conducted also in turn by each member of the party 
 immediately after dinner on that day. 
 
 It is intended that nothing in the above-written 
 arrangements shall prevent any member of the party 
 assisting in any department. Whilst the direction and 
 the respotisibility of the several departments rest with 
 those to whom they are severally appointed, the 
 co-operation and assistance of all is necessary to a 
 successful completion of the whole ; and also, while it is 
 hoped our journey may be so successful and the whole 
 plan work so well as to permit these arrangements to 
 stand throughout that journey, the power is reserved to 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 199 
 
 make in them any such alterations or modifications as 
 may be from time to time advisable or necessary. 
 
 On i 7th May the party sailed in the Quetta ; in 
 the same ship sailed with them Mr. (afterwards 
 Bishop) Hannington and his party, three others 
 of the C.M.S. for Mombasa, Miss Angus of the 
 B.M.S., and Major Smith of the W.M.S. — a party 
 of twenty-two missionaries, twenty of whom were for 
 Eastern and Central Africa. 
 
 A good ship and fine weather conveyed us 
 pleasantly to Eastern seas ; a somewhat rougher 
 passage in the smaller Mecca brought us from Aden 
 to Zanzibar, where we arrived on the 19th June. 
 
 When we hear of an African traveller having 
 150 men to manage, we think of it as a large 
 concern ; if we hear of a party of 300, we reckon it 
 a most extensive undertaking. When we landed at 
 Zanzibar, and all the bulky African moneys 1 had 
 been purchased and packed, we had over 600 man- 
 loads of goods. When the boat sections and the 
 carts should arrive, and various other additions made 
 for the road, we should require, for transport and 
 escort, nearly 1000 African porters and assistants. 
 
 1 All expenditure in the interior is effected with barter goods, 
 chiefly white calico, and also various coloured- cloths and beads. A 
 mission station may require five to twenty loads, and a missionary 
 three to eight loads, for a year's supply. 
 
200 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 The packing and division of goods into various 
 classes having been mostly done in London, left 
 little of that sort to be finished except in regard to 
 small personal matters ; but the barter cloth for use 
 up country had to be purchased and packed at 
 Zanzibar. In the large store of our Agents there, 
 the piles of cloth of different qualities are placed in 
 readiness ; mats, wrappers, and cocoa-nut cord are at 
 hand. With the lists made out in our notebooks, 
 we point out to half a dozen of our intelligent 
 porters the number of pieces to go in each parcel, 
 and they are rapidly piled up, wrapped over, lashed 
 together, and finally sewn in their mats, on which 
 the numbers are painted, or inserted in canvas bags 
 already marked, the numbers and contents clearly 
 booked, and all is ready. 
 
 What delay occurred was in getting men to- 
 gether, and finally and chiefly in the failure of the 
 boat -builders in London to come up to contract 
 time. 
 
 It was decided that as much as possible of the 
 inevitable interval should be passed at a more 
 healthy place than the coast ; so arrangements were 
 made for depositing stores of cloth at various points 
 along the road, and for the missionary party to 
 proceed to Mpwapwa. By this means the whole 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 20 1 
 
 caravan was reduced to manageable detachments, 
 and in the end fewer men employed. 
 
 On 29th June two old tried leaders were de- 
 spatched with 150 men and 121 loads for Urambo 
 and Ujiji, being supplies for Dr. Southon and Mr. 
 Griffiths, stores not needed along the road, and 
 cloth to be picked up at Urambo for the use of the 
 caravan. 
 
 On 3d July another party of 90 men was 
 despatched to Mpwapwa with cloth and other goods 
 for a similar purpose. 
 
 On 4th July 200 loads, carefully assorted as not 
 being first wanted, were delivered over to an Arab 
 leader for conveyance to Ujiji. 
 
 On the 10th July we sailed from Zanzibar 
 across the strait in an Arab dhow, and landing in 
 the evening at Saadani, proceeded at once to 
 Ndumi, the first short stage of the journey, thus 
 being at once placed 300 feet above sea-level ; and 
 on the 13th, with a detachment of 150 men, com- 
 menced the march up country. 
 
 Trudging wearily through the long wet grass, 
 closing in overhead and matted below in the black 
 mud, the party at times neither looked nor felt very 
 strong or cheerful. On the drier uplands a more 
 bracing air and varied scenery brighten the prospect 
 
202 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 and invigorate body and mind. Camped in some 
 pleasant forest glade, the seven bright, roomy tents, 
 the neat pile of loads, the large surrounding circle 
 of tiny grass shelters of our African companions 
 formed quite a village, busy with occupations and 
 cheerful intercourse, restful in any aspect to the 
 weary traveller. 
 
 Arriving at Mamboia, a station of the C.M.S. 
 136 miles from the coast, Mrs. Hore and little Jack 
 were kindly entertained there ; the main part of the 
 expedition went on to Mpwapwa, where they formed 
 a camp until we could all proceed together, and 
 Mr. Swann and I returned post-haste to the coast, 
 where we hoped to arrive at the same time as the 
 ship bringing our boat and her outfit. 
 
 We reached Zanzibar in eight days; the mail was 
 overdue, and eventually was ten days late. 
 
 On 24th August the signals visible on H.M.S. 
 London indicated that the mail-boat was approach- 
 ing. I hurried on board the mail-boat as soon as she 
 anchored, to be told that our boat sections had been 
 left behind at Aden ! It was a sad blow ; everything 
 was now delayed exactly four weeks, which might 
 mean, farther along the road, all the dangers and 
 inconveniences of the rainy season — for our large 
 party a very serious matter. Two days before, we 
 
FILLIXG UP THE CAPS 
 
 203 
 
 had heard of the sad accident to Dr. Southon calling 
 for haste in our movements, and now also we had 
 heard that Mrs. Hore was suffering from sunstroke 
 at Mamboia. 
 
 Before midnight I arranged the whole new plan 
 of operations. The two brethren for Urambo, 
 and Mr. Dineen as medical officer, would proceed 
 at once to Urambo, saving them further delay, 
 lightening the main body of the caravan, relieving 
 that station, and, it was hoped, aiding Dr. Southon 
 as soon as possible. For this purpose a detailed 
 written division and arrangement of barter goods, 
 provisions, and outfit, down to the last kettle and 
 saucepan, was necessary, and was made and de- 
 spatched (in spite of the fever which had come upon 
 me when I heard of the delay of our boat) next 
 morning. 
 
 On the 29th there stood all ready for departure, 
 under the lead of our trusty head man Ulaya, a 
 party of 1 50 (chiefly Wasukuma) porters, with out- 
 fit and barter goods, to form the nucleus of the 
 intended advance party from Mpwapwa to Urambo ; 
 and after seeing them fairly started along the road, 
 I was back again at Zanzibar on the 7th September. 
 
 The next mail arrived on the 13th, bringing 
 the long-expected boat. Mr. Scott, one of the 
 
204 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 European residents, kindly lent us a roomy ware- 
 house in which to overhaul our goods, and here 
 every piece of the boat was examined and brought 
 into contact with the others. Various little alter- 
 ations and additions had to be made, for valuable 
 help in which we had to thank Captain Luxmore of 
 H.M.S. London, and also the chief engineer of the 
 telegraph ship Great Northern. 
 
 The sections and pieces were now marked, 
 numbered, and packed up, — some in light cases, 
 others sewn up in canvas or matting lashed and 
 protected at the ends with raw hide, — and in three 
 weeks from the time of their arrival the sections 
 were all standing lashed upon their carts at Saadani. 
 
 The large pieces of the boat were as follows : 
 the fore compartment and the stern compartment, 
 each 300 lbs. weight ; four complete sections, each 
 230 lbs. weight. The four last were each carried 
 on a light but strong two-wheeled spring cart, 
 consisting of a mere frame, upon which the section 
 rested ; the stern compartment on a somewhat 
 similar cart, but heavier, and without springs. For 
 the fore compartment we had no carriage, but 
 speedily constructed one. Procuring two Indian- 
 made cart-wheels at Zanzibar, an axle was fitted to 
 them there. On the mainland a light framework 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 205 
 
 was built upon the axle, with poles well lashed 
 together with wet raw hide, afterwards dried in the 
 sun ; and this cart proved to be second to none of 
 them, going right through to the journey's end 
 without needing repair. 
 
 The six carts and their loads made up a total of 
 one and a half tons ; the remainder of the boat, 
 in five pieces weighing 180, 171, 150, 121, and 
 1 10 lbs., and the rest in 60-lb. pieces or packages, 
 weighed also nearly one ton and a half, and was 
 carried as usual by porters. 
 
 The carts were drawn by men pulling tandem- 
 fashion in harness of coir rope. 1 
 
 The four smaller carts had two axles : with one 
 the wheels travelled inside the frame of the cart, 
 giving the latter then an extreme outside width of 
 only 2 feet 4 inches ; the other axle carried the 
 wheels outside. The first, near the coast, enabled us 
 to penetrate the thickets and jungles with a mini- 
 mum of tree-cutting ; the latter, on arriving at more 
 open country, enabled full stability to be restored. 
 
 Four pioneers preceded the carts, each armed 
 with an axe and a sword-bayonet, for cutting away 
 brushwood and small trees ; and on the carts them- 
 selves were stowed spare tools of the same kind^ 
 
 1 See illustration, page 188. 
 
206 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 together with saws, spades, and a bag of tools, etc., 
 for repairs. A leader or captain was also appointed 
 to each vehicle to have control of the men and 
 responsible care of the load. These faithfully stuck 
 to their posts right through, displaying a zeal and 
 interest truly praiseworthy ; and they were often 
 severely tried. 
 
 The favourable time for travelling was past, and a 
 drought threatened us in the far interior, or even the 
 worse floods of the rainy season, which might come 
 upon us before we could reach Ujijt 
 
 This state of things was recognised at home, and 
 I received a telegram giving me permission to await 
 the season of the following year. But already some 
 of the party were upon the road ; already the carts 
 were careering round the village of Saadani behind 
 their novel and spirited steeds ; already several 
 hundred men in the various detachments were 
 marching westwards, and it would be both difficult 
 and expensive to alter the plans. But the difficulties 
 caused by the delay were very great ; although the 
 men might get safely through the rains, it would be 
 very imprudent to subject Mrs. Hore to that hard- 
 ship, and it was decided that she should return to 
 the coast. 
 
 The first start of the carts was on 30th September. 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 207 
 
 After a time the system worked admirably. The 
 fore compartment, presenting the boat's sharp, stem to 
 the front, forced its way through masses of bush and 
 creepers. The smaller carts insinuated their narrow 
 frames through very small gaps, and the men seemed 
 ofttimes amply rewarded for a long and hard day's 
 work by the admiration of a few astonished villagers 
 at the camp. 
 
 As we emerged from some of the jungles, as the 
 carts descended steep river banks and, nearly sub- 
 merged on the passage, mounted safely the other 
 side, or jolted whole days together over rugged, 
 stony tracts unharmed, we made up our minds that 
 they would go anywhere. 
 
 Arriving at Kikwaso on the 9th October, sending 
 on one of our native leaders with eighty loaded men to 
 Mpwapwa, and leaving Mr. Swann in charge of the 
 carts, I pressed on to Mamboia to meet Mrs. Hore 
 and Jack after an absence of ten weeks. On the 
 1 8th we started back from Mamboia for the coast, 
 meeting Mr. Swann with the carts at Mchiropa 
 (the fork of the north and south roads thence to 
 Mpwapwa) as arranged. Here the cart-wheels were 
 shifted to broad gauge, two of the sections and one of 
 their carts being left here ; the other one I utilised as 
 a carriage to convey my wife and child to the coast. 
 
208 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 On the 24th, after seeing Mr. Swann under weigh 
 with the four carts, we started for the coast, reaching 
 Zanzibar on the 5th November. A kindly American 
 gentleman and his wife entertained Mrs. Hore there 
 until her departure for England, and once more 
 leaving her and our dear child behind I sailed again 
 for the mainland on 8th November. 
 
 On the 9th November I was at Saadani, about 
 to make the final start for the interior. During 
 nearly five months of incessant bustle and anxiety 
 I had already tramped over 600 miles on the 
 African path. 
 
 Along that road, — some now arrived at Ujiji, 200 
 just arriving at Urambo, some only just leaving 
 Bagamoyo, some starting now with me, some near- 
 ing Mpwapwa, and the rest waiting there for me, — 
 I had over 900 Africans in the different detach- 
 ments of the expedition along 800 miles of road. 
 All, however, was completely organised ; each mem- 
 ber of our party had accessible the right number of 
 pounds of tea and other needful provisions ; each 
 arriving at his station would have stores to start life 
 upon there. The caravan, arriving at the various 
 stages along the road, found there the barter goods 
 for supply over the next stage. And so I started in 
 good heart once more, unwitting of the next five 
 
FILLING UP THE CAPS 
 
 209 
 
 years of unceasing toil, during which I was to tramp 
 3000 miles more, bringing about the complete ful- 
 filment of the objects of the expedition. 
 
 Reaching Mchiropa on the 1 7th, I found Mr. 
 Penry had come back so far to meet me, and thence 
 started in his company with the two carts and boat 
 sections awaiting me there. We went, as Mr. 
 Swann had done with the others, by the south or 
 Mackay's road to Mpwapwa. 
 
 On the 29th November we arrived at Mpwapwa ; 
 we found our brethren in camp on a beautiful spot 
 below some gigantic and wide-spreading sycamores. 
 The camp was quite a little town of grass huts and 
 tents. The brethren on the whole were well, and 
 eager once more to change the monotony of waiting 
 for the progress of the march, although the constant 
 hospitality of the friends of the C.M.S. had rendered 
 the stay pleasant. 
 
 Messrs. Shaw, Willoughby, and Dunn had started 
 with their party of 200 porters on 25th September, 
 arriving safely at Urambo on 1 3th October. 
 
 On the 2d December we broke up camp and 
 turned our faces westward with 280 men. Our first 
 camp was to be at a group of Mgogo villages 
 {Mkambi) beyond the Chunyo Pass. Through this 
 rugged and broken pass we had for some distance 
 
 P 
 
210 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 to cut an entirely fresh road for the carts through a 
 tangled scrub, a work of several hours. 
 
 To the next village on our route, the first in 
 Ugogo proper, was a distance of fully thirty miles. 
 The first day was an easy march to a watering-place : 
 the second, in which we had hoped to reach the 
 villages, gave us tough work. A level country on 
 the whole, it is covered at short intervals with a dense 
 thorny scrub, through which the porters have to push, 
 hampered and entangled by long straggling branches, 
 continually having to stoop with their loads, and some- 
 times almost crawling through the tunnel-like open- 
 ings. The early morning scarce broke before a 
 vigorous onslaught was made with axe and sword 
 upon these obstacles ; the sun looked down from 
 the zenith, and still found us at the bottom of the 
 cutting of dense bush, a fine clear road behind and 
 walls of tangled vegetation in front and on either 
 side. In the afternoon the bush became thinner, and 
 we made some good progress, when, at four o'clock, 
 a violent storm set in, and the path became a running 
 stream. The swampy approach to a river, where the 
 carts sank axle -deep in mud, exhausted the last 
 strength of our wearied men, who bivouacked as 
 they could, while Mr. Swann and I, crossing the 
 river, joined a large party of the porters, who, 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 211 
 
 lagging far behind the vanguard, were also knocked up. 
 They were huddled together in groups, wet and cold. 
 Fire was soon made, and with it a certain amount 
 of comfort. We lay on our boxes under the stars 
 all night, only rousing up now and then to turn the 
 other side to the fire, that all might be equally done. 
 
 Morning showed us better the results of the last 
 day's work : many of our men were sick ; one actually 
 made a little bower in the bush and lay down to die, 
 till we carried him off forcibly. The same obstruc- 
 tions met us this day. Hour after hour the twang 
 of the sword-bayonets and the thud of the axes were 
 almost the only sounds to be heard, till the train 
 of carts moved slowly on as the way was opened. 
 Towards afternoon we followed a narrow pass along 
 the side of a rocky river-bed. The bush was gone, 
 but more substantial obstructions presented them- 
 selves : stout, inflexible trunks and branches projected 
 into the path, and sometimes like iron arms stretched 
 right across, barring the way. The axes rang as on 
 an anvil, and rebounded uselessly from these bars of 
 ebony, which yielded only to the patient saw. As 
 the sun descended we began to flag ; but help was 
 at hand, and a party bringing food for ourselves and 
 men, we picked up strength and spirit, and finally 
 reached camp about 8 P.M. 
 
212 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 The level plains of Ugogo enabled us to make a 
 few splendid and easy marches, which cheered up 
 the men, till they began to think that they " might 
 reach Ujiji after all"; but the carts as well as the 
 men had felt the strain. One wheel gave way, but, 
 as on two subsequent occasions, we were able to 
 repair it ; and no small part of the interest awakened 
 by us in the Wagogo was when they gathered round 
 where I sat, with a lump of granite before me for an 
 anvil, doing the repairs. Wood, iron, copper, or 
 rope, it mattered not, all were called into service, for 
 a wheel must be made, and it was made. Some 
 rods belonging to our camp-bedsteads happened to 
 be exactly the calibre of our wrought-iron wheel- 
 spokes, and were willingly resigned, one after the 
 other, for repairing the wheels. 
 
 Ugogo passed, there lay before us the much- 
 dreaded wilderness of the Magunda Mkali. A steep 
 rocky barrier separates that region from the plains 
 of Ugogo. An ascent of 800 feet had to be made 
 abruptly off the plain. The porters preceding 
 the carts already looked like flies upon a wall, far 
 above ; all hands had to be mustered to one cart, 
 and then return for another, till all had reached a 
 safe point. This process was repeated twice or 
 thrice till, as the day advanced, and no water was 
 
FILLING UP THE CAPS 
 
 213 
 
 found, longer and longer rests were taken. A steep 
 stony slope still lay between us and the top, when 
 men arrived from the front with the doleful news 
 that no water was to be had at the village beyond ; 
 however, an effort was made, and the top reached, 
 and by long foraging some little water was found. 
 
 Perhaps the hardest work done was in the 
 Magunda Mkali ; twenty to twenty-five miles was 
 made day after day over ofttimes very broken ground, 
 and through scrubby forests. Water must be had ; 
 habitations must be reached in a certain time, where 
 only food was to be obtained ; and laggards were 
 in danger from robbers and wild beasts. On, on 
 went the novel train through weary miles of forest, 
 across the scorched plain, rattling over the hard-baked 
 footprints of the elephant and rhinoceros ; on through 
 grassy glades, where the nimble antelope bounded, 
 scared, out of our path, and the zebra and giraffe 
 were startled by the rattling of these strange 
 disturbers of the desert solitude ; on still, through 
 miles of swamp with its croaking legions ; on 
 through scenes of surpassing beauty, bright flowers, 
 and gleaming birds and insects ; on past the dreary 
 wayside relics of travellers waylaid or exhausted, till 
 the sun creeps up high overhead, and eager glances 
 are cast at green spots where water once had been ; 
 
214 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 on, till the pace grows slow and the heart sick with 
 weariness and thirst ; and still on, till it revives again 
 as the welcome messenger appears in sight with 
 water, or the camp-fires tell of food and rest. Thus 
 we pressed forward, with untold labour, till the 
 outlying settlements of Hiturah were reached, and 
 finally Uyui, in Unyamwezi proper, where we were 
 welcomed by the agents of the C.M.S. 
 
 The season was favouring us ; early as were the 
 signs of rain, it still held off, although once or twice 
 a heavy downpour told severely on us. Our great 
 anxiety was to reach the rivers beyond Unyamwezi 
 before they were flooded. 
 
 The wilderness, the beautiful wilderness, had given 
 us a severe trial ; the rich and busy, well-cultivated 
 country of Unyamwezi presented a different kind of 
 obstruction. The industrious natives cultivate every 
 inch of ground they can, laying it bare to the full 
 play of the sun, and raising great ridges in their 
 gardens, with such a narrow path between that our 
 carts, perforce, must go bump, bumping across them 
 for miles together, causing a weary drag to our 
 progress. 
 
 The passage of the Magunda Mkali and several 
 long marches through country flooded with the rains 
 had tried all the nerve and muscle of our party. 
 
FILLING UI" THE GAPS 
 
 215 
 
 Mr. Swarm, by his courageous determination with 
 me to get our boat safely to Ujiji, had a large share 
 in all the hardest parts of the work which made the 
 undertaking a success ; day after day we were long 
 behind the others in getting into camp, and many 
 hours at night we have spent together, repairing 
 wheels, and otherwise preventing delay for the next 
 day's march. And we are thankful to acknowledge 
 the faithfulness and zeal of the Africans who formed 
 the teams of these carts, who suffered much extra 
 labour and hardship rather than yield their special 
 work to others. 
 
 Everybody then was glad when, on 1 6th January 
 1883, we arrived at Urambo, meeting Messrs. Shaw 
 and Willoughby in their new homes. Mr. Griffiths, 
 who had come so far on his way home, had returned 
 to Uguha with Mr. Dunn. 
 
 A great deal of business had to be done. The 
 death of Dr. Southon, and now the illness of 
 Mr. Penry, detaining him at Urambo, and the 
 expected departure of Mr. Griffiths, involved certain 
 rearrangement of work and of stores ; and as all the 
 members of the Mission, except Messrs. Griffiths and 
 Dunn, were now together, we held the annual com- 
 mittee meeting there. 
 
 The mornings were fully occupied for some days 
 
2l6 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 in this business, as well as in the sale of Dr. Southern's 
 effects ; in the afternoons I turned to again in the 
 camp with repairs to the carts and the various 
 packages of goods. At this juncture Mirambo 
 showed himself still friendly to the missionaries. 
 He had long wished to see the carts. After examin- 
 ing them, he laid his hand on one of them and said : 
 " This boat and these carts are mine"! and then, 
 after a short pause, " and all Unyamwezi is yours." 
 It was his way of expressing sympathy, interest, and 
 friendship, and we left him pondering more deeply 
 than ever over the powers of his friends the white men. 
 
 The journey was resumed on the 29th January ; 
 a few more days brought us to the outskirts of 
 Unyamwezi. 
 
 The now ruined villages of Uvinza (the next 
 country on our route) spoke eloquently of bloodshed 
 and robbery, and explained to me the cause of fast- 
 increasing parties of petty robbers with which the 
 roads were infested. Reduced to poverty and despair 
 by incessant raids and wars, the one-time industrious 
 villager turns his hand against every man, and the 
 peaceful caravan finds an abandoned country and no 
 food. 
 
 The brilliant tropical spring was rapidly clothing 
 the whole face of the country as we proceeded. 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 21/ 
 
 The swampy ground and general dampness hur- 
 ried our movements, prognosticating as it did the 
 swelling of the Malagarasi, the most difficult river 
 we have to cross. Emerging from the elevated 
 forests to a view of the valley of the river, it appears 
 like a vast level expanse of harmless grass ; but the 
 swift, deep, swirling Malagarasi is hidden in its 
 depths, and will give us some labour to cross. 
 
 The Jiongo or toll enforced by the natives 
 being settled, we got under weigh once more, and 
 descended to the river through the long grass. The 
 crossing of this river is effected in tiny bark canoes, 
 managed by the natives on the spot, who take both 
 toll for the passage and fares for the boats. One 
 old man, a leader amongst these ferrymen, we had 
 special cause to notice ; we called him " the old 
 admiral." He wore a curious skull-cap, apparently 
 made of bladder, and presented a most odd appear- 
 ance ; to him we paid a special fee of propitiation. 
 As we proceeded towards the river, the first sign of 
 it among the long grass was quiet, shallow water on 
 the path ; this grew deeper and deeper as we walked 
 on, the water ascending to the armpits, and the grass 
 rising, avenue -like, overhead. At the distance of 
 about a furlong we emerged upon a sort of small 
 island or rising-ground, and the river proper was 
 
2l8 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 before us. On this little rising -ground "the old 
 admiral " superintended operations. The porters all 
 crossed in the usual, way, two or three at a time, in 
 the little canoes. The two large carts were floated 
 along the watery avenue by the buoyancy of the 
 sections they carried ; the others came, loads and 
 carts, separately. The fare for each load was one 
 yard of calico, but when the carts appeared there 
 was general astonishment amongst the ferrymen, 
 who showed signs of clearing off altogether. " The 
 old admiral " alone was unmoved ; his stolid coun- 
 tenance showed no sign, but a deep bass growl of 
 " Doti, doti" ("four yards, four yards") expressed 
 at once his nonchalance and his determination, and 
 four yards we had to pay for each of the carts. 
 
 We had long dreaded the passage of this river, 
 but it was all safely done in a day ; two of the bark 
 canoes were lashed together with poles across, and 
 one section or one cart at a time laid on top, and 
 thus all was safely passed over. 
 
 Obstacles which farther back had been great 
 hindrances were now made little of. Our success 
 seemed assured to all ; daily and hourly the men 
 would rehearse their triumphant entry into Ujiji, 
 and actually ran races sometimes through the forest, 
 steering amongst the trees in a wonderful way, till I 
 
FILLING UP THE CAPS 
 
 219 
 
 feared that collision might bring about the damage 
 which all the difficulties of the road had not 
 effected. 
 
 One more difficult river, the Lusugi, we still had 
 to cross. Two or three volunteers swam over with 
 a stout rope, which was then hauled right across the 
 stream. The porters, holding this rope in one hand, 
 slowly but surely made their way across ; then the 
 carts and sections were attached to a block running 
 on the rope, and so, carefully attended by two or 
 three men, were floated over in safety. 
 
 Ujiji was now only a few marches ahead, and 
 the weather became quite fine. The well-known 
 view came in sight at last — a narrow strip of the 
 great lake gleaming in the sun in the distance 
 between the trees, and enlivening each member 
 of the party with the assurance that to-morrow we 
 should be in Ujiji ; but we had a long and hard 
 day's journey of it, wandering for miles among the 
 long rank grass, in a wide detour to the north we 
 were compelled to make to cross the Ruiche River at 
 a suitable ford. For hours we crept through muddy 
 paths, the haunts of the hippopotamus, until at last 
 we emerged upon the fresh and pleasant -looking 
 river, the last we had to cross. Camp was made at 
 sunset only a few miles from Ujiji, whither we were 
 
220 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 able to make an easy march next morning in due 
 state. 
 
 It was a joyous day to all when we slowly 
 marched into Ujiji in a compact body, with the 
 firing of guns and beating of drums awakening the 
 whole place to come and look ; and well they might, 
 for they had never seen such a sight before. 
 
 Our journey was completed as the shores of the 
 lake were reached, in 104 days from the east coast, 
 on 2 2d February 1883 ; and the subsequent arrival 
 of the 200 loads entrusted to an Arab leader com- 
 pleted the success of the largest of East African 
 expeditions. 
 
 The arrival of the carts and boat sections made 
 a great sensation in Ujiji ; the whole town turned 
 out as they came rolling along, fully manned by 
 their crews in gay attire : a sensation only second to 
 that caused by the erection and launch of the boat 
 herself. 
 
 Old friends flocked round to welcome us, and 
 chiefs and people recognised in words and deeds 
 alike that I had fulfilled my promise of coming 
 back to them again with more of my " brothers." 
 
 On entering the mission-house at Ujiji, after an 
 absence from it of two years and three months, it was 
 very pleasing to find the Mission property intact, and 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 221 
 
 indeed everything almost as I had left it, — pictures 
 on the walls, tables and their covers, and numerous 
 other little matters looked as though I had left them 
 but yesterday, — the result of the faithful care of 
 Juma who had been in charge ; and to complete the 
 welcome, a pitcher of milk and a dish of fruit were 
 upon the table. 
 
 During our stay at Ujiji of a little over three 
 months much work was done. Five days after our 
 arrival we commenced building a shed and workshop 
 on the beach for the erection of the Morning Star. 
 The Calabash meantime, which Mr. Griffiths had 
 caused to be rebuilt by an Ujiji carpenter, answered 
 very well for the service between Ujiji and Uguha. 
 In several trips the stores for that place were taken 
 across. Messrs. Griffiths and Dunn came over to 
 Ujiji : the former to confer on the business of the 
 Mission ; the latter to join in the boat-building work, 
 and afterwards to return to Uguha to fill up the gap 
 caused by the absence of Mr. Penry. 
 
 On I 3th March Mr. Jones, his goods having now 
 gone over, sailed for Uguha to take up his position 
 there, and early in April Mr. Dineen, in consequence 
 of failing health, also went over there. 
 
 During this time also the whole of our stores and 
 outfit were examined and divided out to the various 
 
222 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 departments, stations, and individuals. Those for 
 Uguha were despatched across the lake, and all 
 affairs at Ujiji wound up, for as no one had been 
 appointed to that place, it now ceased to be a station. 
 
 The erection of the Morning Star was proceed- 
 ing day by day, forming a wonderful attraction to 
 numerous visitors. Perhaps most concerned of all 
 these were some of my old native sailors, who had 
 been round Tanganyika with me in the Calabash, 
 and had been amongst the first to greet me on my 
 return to Ujiji and express their desire to sail with 
 me again. Now, however, they seemed in some doubt 
 about the new boat, and finally came and said " they 
 were sorry to disappoint me, but really they had 
 never bargained to go to sea in a saucepan " ! Their 
 doubts, however, were subsequently removed on 
 the boat's efficiency and buoyancy being amply 
 proved. 
 
 As the boat neared completion she was daily 
 visited by people of many tribes. She was the sight 
 of the place ; people landing from boats after a 
 voyage made first for the white man's building-shed, 
 and Wajiji from the hills, who seldom or never 
 visited the town, came down to see the wonderful 
 " iron canoe." As the steel sides came together 
 the natives tapped and felt in silent wonder ; 
 
FILLING UP THE GAPS 
 
 223 
 
 Arabs whispered to one another, " This indeed is 
 work " ! 
 
 On 2 1st May the launch was made; early in 
 the morning we started from the house with our 
 men carrying all the necessary gear. A stout and 
 long rope was passed round the boat, the blocks 
 were greased, and we only waited the promised help. 
 The men from the town, chiefly Arabs' slaves and 
 followers, were first ; then we saw a long line of 
 natives coming along the beach ; it was my old 
 friend the mteko of Bangwe with fifty or sixty of 
 his villagers ; later on, another group arrived from 
 Gungu, until we had about 3 00 men. The two 
 ends of the rope were trailed along towards the 
 lake and manned by 100 Wajiji ; the boat itself was 
 almost hidden by the willing hands surrounding it, 
 and, with a long pull, a strong pull, and a pull all to- 
 gether, a crowd of Africans launched the beautiful craft 
 into their lake, which was to carry peace and goodwill 
 round its shores, and pronounced it to be the Morning 
 Star. And standing by, we prayed that she might in- 
 deed be the harbinger of day to many benighted ones. 
 
 With this interesting event was installed the new 
 " marine department," with its roving commission, 
 which took the place on Tanganyika of the old 
 station at Ujiji. 
 
224 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 The gaps also at Urambo and Uguha had been 
 filled up. 
 
 It had been a time of hard work and much 
 anxiety, but as those of us who were now to leave 
 our brethren at their posts launched out once more, 
 thus prepared, to the new and still larger work before 
 us, it was with a firm belief that as hitherto the Lord 
 had helped us, He would also be with us even unto 
 the end. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 " For every house is builded by some man ; but he that built 
 all things is God." 
 
 Q 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 1883-1S85 
 
 OUR marine department on Tanganyika affords 
 the means of getting about, and of convey- 
 ance of stores and mails, thus securing the safety and 
 comfort and preventing the isolation of our mission- 
 aries and the stations. Through its agency also, up 
 to this time, the sites for those stations had been 
 discovered, and the early treaties made with chiefs 
 and people. 
 
 During the first few years Ujiji had been the 
 headquarters of this department, and the work of 
 that station a part of its duties. 
 
 Now that the marine department had been 
 strengthened by the appointment of Mr. Swann, its 
 efficiency secured by the Morning Star, the task 
 was before us of perfecting its strength and organisa- 
 tion by the building of the Good News, a sufficient 
 work in itself; but at the same time it was necessary 
 
228 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 that the department should continue its support to 
 the stations dependent upon it, and this would involve 
 many voyages at intervals while the ship-building was 
 proceeding. 
 
 And as the Ujiji station had been founded and 
 carried on while the department was first coming 
 into existence, so it was hoped that the building of 
 the Good News would result in the establishment of 
 a station in the locality of its birth. 
 
 During this process the department was to have 
 the special aid of those missionaries who afterwards 
 were to take charge of the resulting station at the 
 south end ; so for the time being Messrs. Dineen, 
 Brooks, and Dunn were associated with the marine 
 department. 
 
 The term described in this chapter was of two 
 years, during which the ordinary needs of the Mis- 
 sion were fully served by the boats, without hind- 
 rance from the extra work of the department, and 
 at the end of which, in spite of many hindrances 
 arising from the delays of the Nyassa transport 
 service and the deaths of several of our colleagues, 
 the plan was all carried out. 
 
 Throughout the periods described in the last 
 chapter and in this it had become the rule not to 
 pass to succeeding operations, especially those of 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 229 
 
 extension, until existing ones were left in efficient 
 strength. 
 
 Following this rule, Mr. Dunn had already been 
 detached to fill the gap at Uguha (caused by Mr. 
 Penry staying behind at Urambo), an arrangement 
 regarded as permanent when the sad news came to 
 us afterwards of Mr. Penry's death. 
 
 A few weeks after our party left Urambo, Mr. 
 Penry, evidently too ill for work, had returned coast- 
 wards with Messrs. Hannington and Blackburn of the 
 C.M.S., also on their homeward journey. Leaving 
 Urambo on the 5 th March, they arrived on 19th 
 April at the station of Kisokwe, near Mpwapwa, 
 where they received the hospitable care of Mr. and 
 Mrs. Cole. Mr. Penry became rapidly worse, and 
 died on the morning of the 21st, after bidding his 
 friends be informed that he died " trusting in Jesus 
 and in Him alone." 
 
 The kind friends who had tended him with 
 brotherly care buried him beside the grave of Dr. 
 Mullens at Mpwapwa. Up to the time of his de- 
 tention at Urambo he had become beloved by his 
 brethren, and had taken full share in the business of 
 the journey from the coast, during which he had 
 suffered the succession of fevers from the effects of 
 which he died. 
 
230 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 During our last few days at Ujiji we heard of 
 the illness of Mr. Willoughby, compelling his return 
 home, and were fully prepared to detach one of our 
 number to take his place. The continued health 
 and prosperity, however, of Mr. Shaw rendered it 
 unnecessary at that time, and he continued long after 
 to hold Urambo alone. 
 
 All the work following these changes being 
 effected, we were ready for the voyage to the south. 
 A smaller auxiliary sailing canoe, Chokora (" the 
 satellite ") had been fitted out, forming, with the 
 Morning Star and Calabash, quite a flotilla. The 
 house at Ujiji was handed over to its landlord, and 
 we finally sailed on the 26th June, reaching Mtowa 
 (our port in Uguha) on the 29th. 
 
 If the narrative has been carefully followed, it 
 will be remembered that there were now at our 
 Uguha station, at the new house at Butonga : 
 Mr. Griffiths, awaiting opportunity to return home ; 
 Mr. Jones, taking over charge of the station, and 
 with him Mr. Dunn, in Mr. Penry's place ; and 
 Mr. Dineen, seeking renewed strength before going 
 on with us to the south end. To this party we of 
 the flotilla (Hore, Swann, and Brooks) arrived ; our 
 home for the time being the three boats lying at 
 anchor at Mtowa. We found that Mr. Dineen was 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 23 1 
 
 so much worse that his friends at Butonga had 
 already decided that he could not undertake the 
 voyage, and his place in the boat was offered to 
 Mr. Griffiths (who was to go home by the Nyassa 
 route). On 4th July sails were bent, the flags 
 flying, and the crews all ready ; the brethren from 
 Butonga, preceded by supplies of fruit and vege- 
 tables for the voyage, were all to come to Mtowa to 
 see us off. Mr. Griffiths came along escorting a 
 party carrying Mr. Dineen in a hammock, and both 
 came on board the Morning Star, which the latter 
 now saw for the first time ; they told us Mr. Jones 
 was so ill that he was left in a village half-way, and 
 Mr. Dunn too ill to come at all. It was time to 
 sail, but how could we go and leave such a state of 
 things ? in fact we declined to go unless one stayed 
 behind with our brethren, not one of whom at that 
 moment was fit to look after the others. Mr. Griffiths 
 volunteered to stay, and in half an hour the CJiokora 
 was unloaded, her crew partly disbanded, and the 
 rest put in the other boats, Mr. Griffiths' goods put 
 ashore, and, bidding farewell to our brethren, we 
 sailed away. 
 
 The south-east winds had set in ; this means an 
 almost daily strong wind and sea right along the 
 lake. But at night this often lulls down, and 
 
232 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 moderate and fresh breezes off shore in every 
 direction give a good chance to southern -going 
 voyagers. On this voyage we did most of the 
 distance in this way at night — glorious nights of 
 clear starlight, the dark shore-lines and mountain 
 heights often grandly illuminated by the bush-fires. 
 In the different harbours acquaintance was renewed 
 with old friends amongst the natives, and the voyage, 
 though long and slow, was pleasant ; the sea-going 
 qualities of the Morning Star were well proved, and 
 our health continued good. In sixteen 'days we 
 reached the south end. 
 
 In vain I looked for the many well-to-do villages 
 of my old acquaintances, the prosperous and lively 
 YYalungu : of some of them all vestige was gone, 
 the sites overgrown with jungle ; of others nothing 
 remained but the blackened ruins. Of the people 
 we saw nothing, until, coming upon a solitary fisher- 
 man in his little canoe, we heard something of the 
 sad story. The neighbourhood we thus examined 
 was that of Xiumkorlo and the surrounding district. 
 Xiumkorlo was the place we intended to settle at to 
 build the Good News, and was in ever)- way a 
 desirable locality. But the disturbed condition of 
 the country made it unsuitable at that time for our 
 purpose ; for, for some months at least, we must 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 233 
 
 concentrate on the building of the Good News at 
 some place where food and native labour were to be 
 had. Sailing" on round the south end, we found the 
 same signs of destruction everywhere, until we made 
 the Lofu River, where I judged, if anywhere, the 
 remnant of the tribe would be collected. Here we 
 found — some of them on a little floating island just 
 within the river mouth, some on a sandy spit which 
 had formerly been its bar — a number of refugees, 
 mostly women and children, several of whom were 
 evidently dying of starvation. That night we gave 
 a supper of hot porridge to the poor women and 
 children, by cooking what meal we had in the boat. 
 The news spread fast that the wazungu (white 
 men) had come — news of old friends come back — 
 news of work for food supplies — of protection from 
 their enemies — hope of brighter things all round. 
 Deputations of chiefs and head men arrived begging 
 us to come up river and settle amongst them in 
 a locality favourable for their starting life afresh. 
 Sending for the chief Kapufi, he confirmed these 
 accounts ; and it appeared that in this neighbourhood, 
 between the village of Kabunda and the lake, the 
 people were now chiefly congregated, as the only 
 part safe from attack. All this, as giving opportunity 
 for befriending the natives, had great weight with us ; 
 
234 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 and although somewhat away from direct communi- 
 cation with Nyassa, the neighbourhood otherwise 
 suited us, and was soon decided upon. 
 
 Moving up river to explore on 27th July, we 
 came to at a bend of the river marked on map, 
 " s.s. Good News built here," and by next day we 
 settled on this spot as the site of our " temporary 
 marine depot." 
 
 The natives, and Kabunda too (the latter offering 
 us in fact his whole village and orchards, which he 
 was shortly to vacate), advised us to go farther up 
 river ; but I knew its treacherous nature and its 
 tingi-tingi (floating islands that collect and block 
 the passage). 
 
 So eager was everybody to secure our settlement, 
 that Kapufi, who showed us round and explained 
 things, was threatened with bodily harm if he failed 
 to persuade us to stay. 
 
 On the 28th the boats were moored alongside the 
 river bank, and we began clearing the ground ; native 
 labourers were engaged, and a tariff arranged of 
 prices for poles and other building materials. 
 
 The next fortnight was indeed a busy time. 
 Two houses of three compartments each quickly grew 
 into shape : at either end a dormitory — in the centre, 
 in one case, a store in the other a general living- 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 235 
 
 room. At the river bank a jetty was run out as a 
 landing-place, and a little village of grass huts at one 
 side accommodated our men. 
 
 Every day interviews took place with native chiefs, 
 and on the 8th August we had a formal visit from 
 Kabunda and quite a crowd of his relations and 
 dependants. We heard every view of current events. 
 All agreed that the breaking up of Kabunda's 
 settlement and his interest in the country was the 
 cause of the present state of things, which they all 
 agreed would be still worse as soon as he really 
 departed, for then the Wawemba would be quite 
 unrestrained. 1 
 
 Some of Kabunda's dependants and slaves, the 
 neighbouring renegade Wanyamwezi (or, as they 
 called themselves, by the ancient name of their 
 country, " Wagaraganza ") of Itawa, the Wawemba, 
 and the powerful amongst the Walungu themselves, 
 
 1 Kabunda is a native of Beloochistan, who professes special liking 
 for the English ; he told me he had spent two months on board a man- 
 of-war with Captain Speke. Under the English he had learnt some- 
 thing of the art of war, which he used with effect under Seyid Majid in 
 the disturbances many years ago at Zanzibar. In more peaceful times 
 he was now exploiting the African ivory to share in "the commercial 
 enterprise of the English." He was one of a succession of Arab 
 residents at the south end of Tanganyika, and having accumulated large 
 store of ivory, was about to start for Unyanyembe. The Wawemba are 
 an adjacent warlike tribe, and, like the Walungu and Wafipa, great 
 slavers. The Wagaraganza are colonists from Unyamwezi settled in 
 Itawa, and as far as Katanga, which Mr. Arnot calls " Garenganza." 
 
236 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 took advantage of the upset to make raids or to sell 
 the slaves they already had. It is true that Kabunda 
 at this time, as always, bought and had slaves, and 
 used many of them, as porters could not be hired 
 there, for carrying his ivory to Unyanyembe ; but the 
 raids and outrages were done by the " rabble " I 
 have described, and most of all by the " Wawemba." 
 (The buying instead of the hiring of labour in inner 
 Africa certainly is an Arab custom, but it is still 
 more essentially an African custom.) 
 
 The Walungu especially have always been 
 great slave-dealers. During all this commotion, 
 Chumananga, one of the local chiefs, came to me 
 complaining that "times were bad"; he had just 
 offered a " fine young lad " to some Wafipa, who had 
 also hurried to the scene to buy slaves, " and they 
 had only offered one load of corn for him." 
 
 It was a general scramble ; all were guilty. 
 Kabunda was to be blamed, as indeed he very 
 forcibly was afterwards by Tippu Tib, for breaking 
 up his settlement before some other influential 
 person took his place. A small party of " rabble," 
 mostly slaves of a deceased Arab, remained after 
 Kabunda left ; they were villainous slavers, and 
 much fomented the disturbances. 
 
 While this is being written, Kabunda is back 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 237 
 
 again, and a measure of peace once more se- 
 cured. 
 
 These troubles continued more or less during the 
 whole of our stay in Ulungu, but our coming was. 
 a great protection and aid to the people in their 
 distress. By the fear of us the Wawemba were 
 kept off ; by work and wages the unemployed and 
 destitute were relieved. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival we found that the little 
 community now gathered round us, although thus 
 afforded immediate relief, had no substantial basis 
 of continued prosperity. In the general disturbance 
 the villages and gardens had been destroyed, and 
 many people were solely dependent on the work we 
 supplied. On talking the matter over with some 
 of the chiefs and urging them to build and plant 
 again, they told us they had no seed. The roads 
 were closed, and traffic by land was at that time im- 
 possible for them. So great was the dearth of food, 
 that they were selling their slaves and even relations 
 to the people of various tribes who came in boats 
 for that purpose, eager to take advantage of the time 
 of famine to make good bargains. We, however, 
 by means of our boats could command distant 
 markets, and they were periodically sent away for 
 food, etc. On one of these trips a good cargo of 
 
23§ 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 seed — corn, rice, etc. — was brought back, and calling 
 the chiefs together the seed was distributed to them 
 in shares, according to the number of people they 
 represented. This effectually won their hearts, and 
 helped them to help themselves. This distribution 
 of seed was regarded as a very great event in local 
 history, and more than once since then I have heard 
 the story related in musical recitations by native 
 bards at drum-beatings and merry-makings. Some 
 time afterwards, when I was starting for Xyassa and 
 Ouilimane, I met for the first time Bwana Tereka, 
 one of the so-called Arabs of south-west Tangan- 
 yika, and it was this story of the seed distribution, 
 as told in most beautiful poetical way to him by one 
 of my men, that secured his respect for us. 
 
 Our mission station now in Ulungu, and the 
 continued successful labours of our brethren there, 
 bear testimony that this protection and attention to 
 the first wants of the natives in their time of need 
 has opened a door to our Christian work amongst 
 them. 
 
 Kabunda did not finally leave till the middle of 
 September. 
 
 As soon as the houses were built, the ship-build- 
 ing shed was commenced near the river bank, abreast 
 of the spot chosen for the launch. It was a large 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 239 
 
 building, 60 feet by 20 feet, high enough to give 
 space for work both above and below the vessel as 
 it came into shape ; the blocks were laid down the 
 centre, and one side extended as a workshop. 
 
 On 1 8th August, the depot being now in exist- 
 ence, the Calabash was despatched to Uguha, with 
 and for news, to assist the brethren there if needed, 
 and to bring back food ; and during the whole of 
 our stay in the Lofu River the Calabash or the 
 Morning Star — sometimes both of them — were fre- 
 quently away on this mail and transport service 
 to Ujiji and Uguha, and also transporting the Good 
 A r ews material. 
 
 The Calabash returned on 14th September, bring- 
 ing Mr. Griffiths on his way home, and the news 
 of the death of Mr. Penry, and lastly of Mr. Dineen 
 at Uguha, of which Mr. Griffiths furnishes the follow- 
 ing account : 
 
 " A cloud has passed over our Mission, and we 
 mourn the death of an earnest worker, who, had he 
 been spared, would undoubtedly have been very 
 successful in winning over disciples to Christ in 
 Central Africa. Our devoted fellow -missionary, 
 Mr. Dineen, died on the 25th July, after an illness 
 of over four months' duration. He came over to 
 Uguha in the hope that he would soon recover his 
 
240 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 strength at a place having a fair reputation for 
 healthiness. For the next three weeks he continued 
 to improve, and got well enough to be able to sit up 
 and move about just a little. After that a relapse 
 took place. Then came the second relapse, attended 
 with much vomiting and diarrhoea. Change for the 
 worse could be noticed every week, until on the 25 th 
 ult. he succumbed to his complaint. He bore his 
 illness with wonderful patience and resignation to 
 the last, and his soul aspired daily more and more 
 for the heavenly life. We buried our brother on 
 the evening of the following day" (26th ult.) 
 
 It was felt that the staff on our stations was now 
 so attenuated that one of our number should move 
 back, but the assurance by Mr. Shaw at Urambo 
 and Mr. Jones at Uguha that they were strong and 
 well enough to hold their positions alone, prevented 
 this further loss to our work. 
 
 We got together a party for Mr. Griffiths' escort 
 to Nyassa, whence he departed on the 17th. 
 
 News had also come to us (not long indeed before 
 his arrival on the scene) of a very valuable accession 
 to our staff in the shape of an engineer, Mr. Rox- 
 burgh, whose services were to be specially devoted 
 to the erection of the Good Neivs. 
 
 When we arrived at the south end of the lake in 
 
BUILDIXG AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 241 
 
 July, and were looking for the Walungu, we were also 
 looking for the African Lakes Company ; we almost 
 expected, from what we had heard, to find a station 
 erected — at least we expected to see, or hear of, an 
 extensive expedition bringing us the material of the 
 Good News. No sign or news of any such were to 
 be obtained, and at once on settling on our site 
 parties of messengers were despatched Nyassa-wards 
 to inquire after them, but still no news. 
 
 On 29th September our settlement was all astir 
 with the cry, " A white man is coming," and in a few 
 minutes he appeared, in the shape of Lieutenant 
 Pulley, R.N., who had accompanied Mr. F. Moir 
 from Nyassa, and on reaching the lake near Nium- 
 korlo had followed the coast round and thus found 
 us here. Mr. Roxburgh was with them, and the 
 loads they were conveying were coming along by 
 relays : this was on Saturday night. 
 
 On Monday morning Mr. Swann and I started 
 in the Calabash, and that evening came to their 
 camp, shipped Mr. Roxburgh and his baggage, and 
 arranged to send porters for the loads. 
 
 On arriving back in the Lofu River Mr. Swann 
 went in the Calabash at once to buy food, which was 
 now much in demand for all parties ; and returning 
 on the 8th, sailed again with food for Mr. Moir's 
 
 R 
 
242 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 camp, and brought back to us on the ioth the 
 first consignment of Good News materials (forty -one 
 loads). 
 
 Mr. Roxburgh soon made himself at home with 
 us ; he had had a long and trying journey of many 
 shifts and changes, and had already done a lot of 
 work in looking after the goods and vastly accelerating 
 their arrival to us. 
 
 On 2 1st October the first two pieces of keel were 
 laid — the Good News was commenced. And for the 
 next sixteen months, except for the intervals, alas, in 
 which we were waiting for materials, the wild banks 
 of the Lofu River resounded to the noise of the 
 anvil and riveting, as the skeleton, and then the 
 shell, of the vessel slowly rose into shape. 
 
 Three weeks sufficed for all that could be done 
 with the materials now on hand, and Mr. Roxburgh 
 sailed with me on a voyage to Uguha and Ujiji. 
 And so the whole year was spent in voyages and 
 spells of shipbuilding as materials arrived. 
 
 And all through the stay in the Lofu River we 
 were gradually laying the foundation of eventual 
 Christian teaching amongst the people by making their 
 acquaintance and making known our errand, while 
 our native sailors and workmen and two or three 
 Uguha boys were serving a sort of apprenticeship to 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 243 
 
 civilisation and industrial work which has resulted in 
 many able helpers on our stations and boats ever since. 
 
 On one of the voyages I had remained some time 
 at Uguha aiding Mr. Jones in cutting and rafting 
 some timber to his station, and had then been to 
 Kavala Island. Returning to the mission -house at 
 Butonga, where I arrived on the 5th March 1884, I 
 found that Mr. Dunn was very unwell. On the 6th 
 he was no better, suffering much pain, but sleeping 
 again in the afternoon was thought to be getting rest, 
 when it was found that he had quietly passed away. 
 Mr. Dunn was a devoted and useful member of the 
 church at Windsor, where he was greatly respected. 
 His neat and skilful workmanship had added con- 
 siderably to the efficient completion of the Morning 
 Star at Ujiji, and though disappointed of a share in 
 the Good News building, he had been working 
 steadily on at the Uguha station, and gave every 
 promise of doing most useful work. 
 
 The shell of the vessel was now rapidly coming 
 into shape. Everybody took part in the riveting ; 
 but Mr. Roxburgh, whose whole time was devoted 
 to it, had the hardest and most continued manual 
 labour, resulting in the best of work upon our vessel, 
 but, sadly to him, in the eventual failure of his health 
 and strength. 
 
244 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Although as yet in a very straggling and any- 
 thing but permanent manner, connection had now 
 been effected, first by our messengers and then by 
 the African Lakes Company's parties, with the 
 Zambesi -Nyassa route, and longing hopes were 
 directed that way, as possibly being quicker than 
 the old Zanzibar-Ujiji route. 
 
 Mrs. Hore was shortly to join us on the lake, and I 
 therefore offered to make a trial of the new route by 
 bringing Mrs. Hore over it from Quilimane, with say 
 thirty or forty loads of goods, and so fairly test it. 
 Meantime Mr. Griffiths had arrived home and given 
 such a good account of the route that the directors 
 despatched (to travel that way) not only Mrs. Hore 
 and little Jack, but Messrs. the Rev. J. Harris 
 and B. Rees, and Dr. F. Laird, our new reinforce- 
 ments, together with their outfit and supplies for 
 Tanganyika. 
 
 The letter of instructions for me to proceed to 
 Quilimane to escort this party was burnt with the 
 rest of a mail in a fire at our Urambo station, so it 
 was not till the 8th June that I got news (at the 
 Lofu depot) of this plan. 
 
 On the 13 th I started with a very small party 
 for Nyassa. From various points along the road I 
 collected 200 porters eager to be employed in carry- 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 245 
 
 ing back loads. From Maliwanda's a party of them 
 were sent back loaded under charge of one of my 
 men. On 9th July, in company of my kind host 
 Mr. Bain of the F.C.S.M. there, I went down the 
 " Stevenson road " (which, except where overgrown 
 again, is now an accomplished fact for fifty miles, 
 or nearly a quarter of the way from Nyassa to 
 Tanganyika) to Karonga's. Thence by the s.s. Ilala 
 to Matope in the upper Shire, and, after a stay at 
 Blantyre and Mandala, waiting in vain for the river 
 steamer, in a small boat down the lower Shire and 
 Zambesi, meeting the Lady Nyassa close to Maruru, 
 just starting up river to " punish the natives," who 
 were pronounced to be in a state of rebellion. 
 
 Arriving at Ouilimane at midnight of 1 8th 
 August, I was on board the s.s. Florence bound to 
 Mozambique at 9.30 next morning. 
 
 At Maruru I had met Mr. Harris and heard from 
 him how the party ascending the Kwa-kwa River 
 had been stopped by the news of war, and all but 
 himself returned to Natal to await events. Our 
 course was very evident. All the Company's stations, 
 from Karonga's to Quilimane, were choked with 
 such quantities of our Good News material and with 
 necessaries for the F.C.S.M. stations as would take 
 their boats, under most favourable circumstances, a 
 
246 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 very long time to reduce. The missionaries on 
 those stations were kept very short of supplies 
 already, in consequence of our Good News business 
 requiring all the Company's transport capacity. To 
 add anything to this now would cause the inevitable 
 failure of several enterprises. 
 
 The extra hurry and bustle of these affairs just at 
 the time of a rekindling of the ever-latent discontent 
 of the natives under Portugese misrule, and disap- 
 pointment in realising that aid from the English the 
 expectation of which since Livingstone's time had 
 become traditional, had resulted in a general disturb- 
 ance which, on the lower Shire and Zambesi, had now 
 for a time stopped the whole system of transport ; 
 and through which I barely escaped myself with the 
 letters from the blockaded community at Blantyre 
 and Mandala. 
 
 For the half night I spent at Ouilimane I was 
 fully occupied making out lists of our property to 
 be returned to the port for shipment to Zanzibar, 
 leaving; a few loads and Mr. Harris's own outfit to 
 
 o 
 
 accompany him as a test for the capabilities of the 
 route as soon as matters had quietened. 
 
 At Mozambique I communicated by telegraph 
 with headquarters, and received permission to proceed 
 by Zanzibar. 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 247 
 
 At Delagoa Bay on the 7th September I met 
 Mrs. Hore and Jack and Rev. B. Rees on board the 
 Dunkeld, and with them sailed for Zanzibar, picking 
 up at Quilimane, in passing, the goods for transport 
 to the lake. 
 
 Dr. Laird, who had suffered much from fevers on 
 the Kwa-kwa River, owing a great deal to his self- 
 sacrificing efforts for the comfort of his companions, 
 and especially Mrs. Hore and Jack, had developed 
 such dangerous symptoms as forbade his farther 
 progress into tropical Africa, and he returned home 
 from Natal. 
 
 We arrived at Zanzibar on 26th September 
 (dangerously late y in the season). I had found for 
 myself that it was impossible for the expedition to 
 proceed by the Zambesi route. At Zanzibar I found 
 African authorities (an officer of the A.I.A., of East 
 Central African experience, and one of the Congo 
 Free State who had spent years on the Congo) who 
 pronounced the old route to Ujiji impossible, and 
 begged us to refrain from such a mad project. I 
 can only suppose that they also were quite ignorant 
 of what had already been achieved in the way of 
 travelling by our missionary caravans. And although 
 another African authority had said that this route 
 required " eight months " for its accomplishment, and 
 
248 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 that " those black villains the porters, the despair of 
 every traveller," were a sufficient reason for avoiding 
 it, I knew that I could do it in three months, and 
 had already learnt so to depend upon and love some 
 of our much -abused followers as to be confident in 
 undertaking an enterprise on which even the safety of 
 my wife and child would depend, in great measure, on 
 their kindness and faithfulness ; and so I felt justified 
 in relying solely on my own experience, and was not 
 disappointed. 
 
 It certainly was the most unfavourable condition 
 under which to try the experiment of taking a lady 
 into the country. Mrs. Hore and Jack had already 
 been much reduced by the deadly climate and the 
 hardships of the Kwa-kwa River, and now we should 
 certainly be caught by the rains ere reaching Ujiji ; 
 but womanly courage and motherly devotion were 
 equal to the task, and came safely through what was 
 to me the most trying passage of that road. 
 
 At Zanzibar we found sixty more loads of stores 
 for up country, and this, with the supplies for the 
 stations, made up an immense mass for transport. 
 But if it was not to bring aid and supplies to those 
 in the interior with our arrival there was no need 
 to go. 
 
 We left the coast on the 10th October, a party 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 
 
 249 
 
 of 200 porters, with Juma as head man ; while 
 Ulaya brought up the rear with another party of 
 200. 
 
 Arriving at Mpwapwa on 7th November, we 
 found that place suffering from unusual drought ; 
 but farther along in Ugogo it was really a state of 
 famine, in which some of our men endured great 
 hardship. 
 
 In the Magunda Mkali, the last stretch of un- 
 inhabited country before reaching the rich land of 
 Unyamwezi, we were reduced to sore straits ; it 
 really seemed doubtful whether we should safely get 
 across to the land of plenty. Many of our men 
 were getting sick, and again and again at camp 
 some would come to me, and, tightening their belts 
 to show their emptiness, would pitifully ask me for 
 food I saw no way of procuring. We had yet two big 
 marches to make, when, as we were doggedly strag- 
 gling over the dry, parched track, a joyful cry came 
 along the line from ahead, " Corn, corn, here is food, 
 brothers," and there came to us as veritable corn out 
 of Egypt, a party of Wanyamwezi with loads of corn 
 which they were carrying to sell at high price in 
 the famine-stricken Ugogo. The corn was promptly 
 bought up and divided out, and we truly thanked 
 God and took courage. 
 
250 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 On 7th December we arrived at Unyanyembe, 
 and being visited there by Messrs. Stokes and 
 Blackburn of the C.M.S. from Uyui, heard the news 
 of the death of Mirambo. With his dying breath 
 he commended the missionaries and their teaching 
 to the care and attention of his people. 
 
 Reaching Urambo on the 1 8th December, and 
 Ujiji 7th January 1885, the journey had been done 
 in ninety days : a journey pronounced impossible at 
 that time by African authorities (and the achieve- 
 ment of which before and since by other persons 
 has been judged most remarkable), successfully done, 
 in the ordinary course of duty, by a woman carrying 
 her sick child, and conveying at the same time all 
 the supplies for the stations up country. 
 
 Our little boy had suffered much ; he had never 
 recovered from the exceptional hardships of the 
 Zambesi route. The additional burden of his illness 
 had made it also a most trying journey to Mrs. 
 Hore. But, even at Ujiji, hope revived, and we all 
 felt that life on our own station would give us re- 
 newed health and strength. 
 
 The rear party under Ulaya arrived on 3d Feb- 
 ruary, and Mr. Rees (who had stayed behind for a 
 time at Urambo) shortly afterwards. 
 
 The first time I had arrived at Ujiji (in 1878) it 
 
BUILDING AND SHIP-BUILDING 251 
 
 was as an unknown and much -doubted stranger ; 
 the second time I came there (in 1883), bringing 
 our new boat the Morning Star, I came to many as 
 an old friend known and welcomed. And now, 
 arriving for the third time, I brought my wife and 
 child with me. Their presence proved the means 
 of still closer and more personal acquaintance and 
 regard, and elicited and proved the existence of 
 many of the finer characteristics of humanity both 
 amongst Arabs and natives. 
 
 At Ujiji we heard no news of Mr. Swann, so on 
 the 20th we crossed to Kavala Island, in Uguha, in 
 a new boat I had purchased at Ujiji, and now called 
 the Alfajiri (Dawn of Day), and established ourselves 
 there. 
 
 On the 29th January the Calabash arrived at 
 Kavala, first leaving Mr. Harris (who had come 
 in her from the south end) at Mtowa the day 
 before. 
 
 Mr. Harris, after staying at Mazaro on the Zam- 
 besi a month, and a fortnight at Blantyre, had 
 finally joined our brethren at the Lofu River depot 
 just in time to spend Christmas (1884) with them. 
 
 The news by the Calabash was on the whole 
 most cheering. At the Lofu River our brethren had 
 been working hard all this time, and the hull of the 
 
252 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Good News was so far completed as to be ready for 
 the launch. 
 
 I hurried off to Ujiji at once in the Calabash to 
 receive Mr. Rees and Ulaya as they arrived there, 
 and loading the Calabash with Mr. Roxburgh's pro- 
 visions and other supplies, despatched her to the 
 Lofu depot, requesting Mr. Swann to effect the 
 launch, and fit the hull of the vessel with jury-masts, 
 paddles, etc., ready to sail her to Kavala. 
 
 Returning to Kavala, Messrs. Jones, Rees, Harris, 
 and I discussed business in committee and shared 
 out the stores and supplies for our three stations ; 
 and it was then decided that Messrs. Harris and 
 Brooks should continue at the south end the good 
 work amongst the Walungu, and proceed to develop 
 it into a permanent station, the members of the 
 marine department establishing themselves at Kavala, 
 and Mr. Rees joining Mr. Jones at Butonga in 
 Uguha, arrangements once again completing the plan 
 of years. 
 
 At the shipbuilding yard in the Lofu River the 
 combined technical skill and organising tact and 
 determination of our brethren there had surmounted 
 every difficulty, and made a brilliant success of the 
 launch of the Good News on the 3d March. On the 
 13th Mr. Swann arrived in the Morning Star to 
 
BUILDING AND SH1P-BUILDIXG 
 
 253 
 
 give us the details of that interesting and most im- 
 portant achievement, the floating of our vessel, the 
 subsequent completion of which has enabled us 
 literally to " take possession " in the Lord's name of 
 this beautiful inland sea, Tanganyika. 
 
 On 23d March Mr. Swann once more sailed for 
 the south end, conveying there Mr. Harris and his 
 goods in the hope of establishing our third station 
 on the lake shore. 
 
 At Urambo Mr. Shaw had continued in health 
 and strength, was rebuilding the premises that had 
 been destroyed by fire, had successfully passed 
 through the critical period of disturbance following 
 Mirambo's death, and by study of the language and 
 continual intercourse with the people was building 
 up their friendship to us and increasing their know- 
 ledge of Christian truth. 
 
 With the building of our vessel and the erection 
 of extended premises at all our stations, which was 
 accomplished during this period, the Mission itself, 
 notwithstanding our losses, was also successfully 
 growing. Our native helpers and friends were 
 gaining greater confidence in us, our acquaintance 
 amongst the tribes extending, and here and there a 
 glimmer of light was appearing as they began to 
 understand our errand among them. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 "And the barbarous people shewed us no little kindness . . . and 
 received us every one . . . who also honoured us with many honours. " 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 THE GOOD NEIVS AT K AVAL A 
 18S5-18S8 
 
 URING the past two years the members of 
 
 of a vagrant life. On leaving Ujiji the bedsteads 
 and chairs had been left behind to give space for 
 tools and materials that might further the work ; at 
 the building of the depot the best and strongest 
 poles and the most skilled help had been devoted to 
 the shipbuilding shed rather than to the houses, and 
 although we had never been reduced to " one spoon," 
 we had devoted the smallest attention and time to 
 domestic and personal affairs. Recreation and change 
 had only been effected by recurring now and then to 
 a different class of labour, or, as sailors say, " knocking 
 off work to carry bricks." The site of the depot was 
 selected as convenient for the building and launch 
 of the vessel rather than as salubrious for residence. 
 Now that the hull of the vessel was afloat, en- 
 
 the marine department had led somewhat 
 
 S 
 
258 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 abling her to be completed anywhere, and the arrival 
 of Mr. Harris to establish and take charge of a 
 permanent station in Ulungu, it became imperative 
 that we should take more care for ourselves. 
 
 This meant, of course, location in more substantial 
 quarters, which (now that we could move) might just 
 as well be in the place selected as the permanent 
 locality of our department, where we could at once 
 complete the Good News, serve the stations, and 
 secure proper shelter and comfort for ourselves. 
 
 The place long before selected for that purpose 
 was Kavala Island, where I had deposited my wife 
 and child, and where, when the hull of our vessel 
 was afloat, it was decided to remove her for com- 
 pletion and the establishment of a permanent 
 station. 
 
 Messrs. Harris and Brooks, at the south end, 
 would of course receive and store the material com- 
 ing from Nyassa, which we should fetch from time 
 to time with our boats when communicating with 
 them. 
 
 Kavala is one of a group of islands off Uguha, 
 and about six miles from Mtowa in that country. It 
 is about three miles long, and from half a mile to a 
 mile across, with a fine deep bay on the landward side 
 forming a harbour. In form it is a long irregular 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 259 
 
 hill rising out of the lake, with deep water all round, 
 and nearly a mile distant from the adjacent coast 
 of Uguha. Its position in the length of the lake 
 may be clearly seen on the map. Its form, and the 
 nature of the soil, make it healthy, and it is well 
 ventilated by the lake winds ; being, in fact, at sea, 
 whilst, being an island, it is free from the effects of 
 warlike disturbances or attacks of wild beasts. Half 
 an hour or an hour in a native canoe takes one to 
 the mainland, where, in a richer but less healthy 
 soil, the natives of the island have their larger 
 plantations. 
 
 Mr. Rees and his goods being conveyed to 
 Uguha, Mr. Harris and his goods to the south end, 
 we now turned again to the work of establishing 
 ourselves. 
 
 On the 1 8th April 1885, having rigged the Alfa - 
 jiri, built and repaired houses for immediate use, and 
 left my wife and child in the kind care of Ulaya 
 and our other faithful Zanzibaris, I sailed for the 
 Lofu River, where I had the great joy of seeing our 
 vessel afloat. Mr. Roxburgh, although really very 
 ill, was in wonderful spirits at the successful issue of 
 his work. Mr. Swann had packed all our property 
 and prepared the Good News for her first trip. The 
 vessel herself being the mere shell, without deck, 
 
260 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 fittings, or rigging, was now entirely under jury rig, 
 consisting of two rough poles for masts secured by 
 temporary framework : the big lateen sail of the 
 Calabash forward, and another one aft. I also had 
 sixteen long sweeps to work on tholes temporarily 
 fixed along the vessel's sides, and stability was 
 secured by a good load of the heavy stores and 
 shipbuilding materials. Although temporary plat- 
 forms were rigged over the vessel, she was still prac- 
 tically an open boat. I had confidence, however, in 
 my knowledge of the lake, the nearly certain occur- 
 rence of strong fair winds to make a passage, and 
 the paddles to put her into port, and was therefore, 
 notwithstanding some anxiety, able with intense 
 gratification to feel my beautiful vessel for the first 
 time rise and fall upon the bosom of the lake, and 
 " turning about whithersoever I listed." 
 
 Bidding farewell to Messrs. Harris and Brooks, 
 we sailed out of the Lofu River on the 5th May. 
 Mr. Roxburgh was with me in the Good News, and 
 Mr. Swann sailed the Morning Star as tender and 
 escort. First giving us a tow out into deep water, 
 he sailed away to make a call for mails at Karema, 
 and then to proceed to Kavala, and there cruise 
 about to give assistance or tow us into harbour. 
 A strong fair breeze, however, gave us a quick and 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 261 
 
 safe passage. At 5.30 P.M. on the 7th we were close 
 to Kavala, and after a vigorous pull up with the 
 paddles, anchored in our own harbour at 6. 
 
 The arrival of the great white hull of the Good 
 News was a great astonishment to the Kavala people ; 
 she was indeed " a big ship " to them, and every one 
 crowded to the shore to gaze. Nor was the arrival 
 without pleasing incident to us ; as I thus terminated 
 the first voyage of our new vessel, it was at a place I 
 already regarded as a home. I could see the little 
 house where my wife and child were living, the 
 cleared roads and various buildings giving it a 
 civilised appearance, the people welcoming us by 
 name — all pointed to improvement, light, and peace. 
 The first communication made was by Ulaya, who 
 paddled out quickly to meet me, shouting out as 
 soon as within hearing, " They are all right and well," 
 meaning my wife and child. 
 
 At 9 P.M. the Morning Star arrived ; the difference 
 of time was just that taken up by her divergence 
 to do business at Karema ; allowing for that, the 
 similar passages of the two vessels well demonstrated 
 the advanced state of navigation on Tanganyika. 
 
 Our ' men had worked hard in our absence. 
 Chiefs and people were pleased at our settling 
 amongst them, and all promised fair for success. 
 
262 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Mr. Roxburgh, however, was quite worn out with 
 his rough life and continuous hard work ; he had in 
 no way spared himself, and now, the excitement 
 over, he was suffering. During the voyage he still 
 kept up, but as soon as we reached Kavala he 
 seemed much worse with decided dysentery. Rest, 
 better accommodation and food, and all the assist- 
 ance we could render, served only to prolong his 
 life for a few more days, and on the 18th he died. 
 We had at least the satisfaction of feeling that 
 we had been able to make his last days a little 
 more comfortable ; all of us who knew him bore 
 testimony to his faithful work, and felt assured that 
 he had so lived that for him to die was gain. To 
 his patient toil and superior skill the solid workman- 
 ship of the sides and frame of our good vessel is due, 
 besides other good work about our boats and houses, 
 wherever his skill could be applied. Over his grave 
 we erected a fitting memorial made of one of the 
 steel plates similar to those of which the Good News 
 is built. 
 
 On the 1 7th April Mr. Swann, returning from a 
 voyage to Niumkorlo with another cargo of Good 
 Nezvs material, brought us more sad tidings. Mr. 
 Harris, who had been ill from the effects of the 
 journey from Nyassa, but was thought to have 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 263 
 
 recovered, had suffered again from dysentery, and, 
 while engaged with Mr. Brooks in shifting from the 
 Lofu River to Niumkorlo, the site originally chosen, 
 became much worse, and finally died at Niumkorlo 
 on the 29th May. Another life laid down while 
 seeking to bring light and life to the Africans. 
 
 The next day we went over to Mtowa to visit 
 Messrs. Jones and Rees at Butonga. Mr. Jones, 
 somewhat worn by his long, lonely spell of work there, 
 during which he had buried two of his brethren ; 
 and Mr. Rees, not yet recovered strength from his 
 arduous journey, felt the sad news terribly. Mr. 
 Jones announced the necessity of his return home, 
 and on the 20th Mr. Rees, having no sign of return- 
 ing health, decided that he would return at the same 
 time. For the rest of us, I think we had that kind 
 of African " perversity " or " sentiment " that has so 
 often been callous to appeals to retire out of Africa. 
 Our vessel was coming into shape, our station was 
 growing every day, with all around we were on 
 friendly terms, and we saw not far ahead the time 
 when, fairly settled in our new quarters, the work of 
 direct Christian teaching would commence. But 
 now we had more immediate work and responsi- 
 bilities. Mr. Brooks must shortly be visited and 
 brought away, and the property at Butonga and the 
 
264 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 south end packed up and stored, and from the latter 
 place all brought away. 
 
 On the 23d I went to Ujiji, despatched a 
 special mail home with particulars and requests for 
 help, and engaged porters ; and, on 2d July, again 
 sailed to Ujiji with Messrs. Jones and Rees, who, 
 starting thence, reached the coast on the 6th 
 November. 
 
 At Uguha Mr. Jones had lived and worked for 
 over two years. He had settled down to a careful 
 study of the language, acquiring a more intimate 
 knowledge of it than any of us. Already he was 
 able to understand the ideas and religious beliefs of 
 the people, and went about amongst them preaching 
 the truths of Christianity ; besides continuing to set 
 forth, in all his connections with them, the Christian 
 life and character. It is to be lamented that he was 
 unable to continue, or that there was no one to take 
 up the work at that point ; but there can be no 
 doubt that good seed was sown, and the general 
 welfare of the Mission furthered by the maturing 
 friendship toward us of the Waguha. 
 
 Hurriedly packing up the property at Butonga, 
 placing a man in charge, and bringing over valu- 
 ables to Kavala Island, I sailed on the 1 5th for 
 Niumkorlo. 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 265 
 
 Mr. Brooks was all right, and another caravan 
 of goods had arrived from Nyassa. We could not 
 entirely abandon the place until all the goods had 
 arrived, but it was arranged that on the next 
 voyage Mr. Brooks should come to Kavala. 
 
 Air. Swann made the next voyage, returning 
 with Mr. Brooks to Kavala on the 29th. Two 
 more voyages, having received the last lot of material 
 from the African Lakes Company on 26th September, 
 were made in bringing away our property ; the 
 Calabash, on the 1 7th November, being the last boat 
 to arrive. Some of her crew had the smallpox, and 
 we were obliged to put her in quarantine, in a little 
 bay a mile off, until the men had recovered. The 
 Calabash, no longer seaworthy, was beached ; the 
 last of her timbers coming apart as the Good News 
 was ready for service. 
 
 On the 14th September, at Ujiji, I saw Mr. 
 Brooks off for Urambo, where he continued to 
 labour and afterwards remained in charge of that 
 station during Mr. Shaw's visit to England. 
 
 The property at Butonga was still in some sort 
 a burden to us, and at last, seeing no prospect of 
 re-occupation, and the house falling into decay from 
 want of attention, we brought everything to Kavala. 
 
 In these services, from the 7th May 1885, when 
 
266 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 the hull of the Good News was brought to Kavala, 
 until the end of that year, our boats, in twenty 
 voyages of from 10 to 500 miles, had sailed over 
 4500 miles : a clear demonstration of their utility, 
 of their absolute necessity for working the Mission, 
 in salving its property and bringing its agents 
 together, or maintaining them at distant places 
 under the most adverse circumstances. 
 
 It had been a time of hard work and much 
 anxiety, but for months there had also been a 
 quieter undercurrent of another kind of work going 
 on, the extent of which I had myself scarcely realised, 
 until Mrs. Hore asked for a schoolhouse. Twenty 
 or thirty girls had been pacified and tamed, from a 
 state of wild shyness and utter ignorance, into a class 
 of quiet, eager scholars, for which a proper place was 
 needed. In this our little Jack too had had no 
 small share ; by his fearless friendship with the little 
 ones he had attracted them to us, and his intimate 
 knowledge of their language made him a useful 
 medium of teaching. Natives and Arabs alike, on 
 many occasions, revealed much of a gentler and 
 better nature in the presence of little Jack, who was 
 loved by, and attracted all. 
 
 On 3d September a building was commenced, 
 to serve as a church and school. We put into it 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 267 
 
 our best material and skill. Mr. Swann gave up 
 his time of rest between frequent voyages to aid 
 in beautifying it, and, although only what in 
 England would be called a mud-hut, it was very 
 dear to us, and, for Kavala, an altogether superior 
 building. Here the girls' school was carried on. 
 
 On 26th October the boys' school was com- 
 menced, and on 8th November, the day Mr. Swann 
 arrived from his last voyage to the south end, a 
 service of worship was conducted which was the first 
 of continued services from that time. The following 
 account of work at this time is inserted as having the 
 peculiar value of being written on the spot at the 
 time : 
 
 With regard to the station itself, I have enclosed with a 
 small stone wall about four acres of ground, including 
 sites for premises, shore for all marine purposes, with 
 approaches to the house, and certain garden ground. 
 
 Having all the advantages of elevation close to the 
 lake side, we have consequently to put up graciously 
 with some steep ascents. 
 
 These I have made as easy as possible by broad 
 beaten roads, ending in a terrace along the hillside to 
 the house. The roads have afforded much satisfaction 
 to the people, who now have a clear way to their 
 gardens, between which and the chief village your 
 establishment lies. In addition to the fruits I have 
 already told you were planted, I have now 150 banana 
 trees symmetrically placed, and the like number of 
 
268 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 sugar-canes to absorb a swampy spot on the beach, 
 and some English garden and flower seeds are already 
 coming up. The whole place excites the admiration 
 of all beholders, who compare it with Zanzibar or 
 Muscat, according as they have travelled. 
 
 I am now able to report to you, without the least 
 exaggeration, that you have here a most flourishing 
 and respectable station (although the actual buildings 
 are yet only of the kind we term temporary), with all 
 your agents in good health and civilised manners (for 
 the mud-table era is now passed), and living on friendly 
 terms with the natives ; at which is held a daily school 
 for girls, a daily school for boys, weekly worship of 
 God, and class for religious instruction — all instituted, 
 not by any strained effort, but at the direct request of 
 the chief and people. 
 
 I may say I have worked from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. for 
 months past, and it is certainly as master of works that 
 I have gained Kavala's admiration ; but the centre and 
 strength of our powerful influence doubtless lay in the 
 arrival and presence of my wife and child, and its 
 resulting details in Mrs. Hore's school. 
 
 I had long thought that I should be best serving 
 the interests of the Mission by applying myself almost 
 exclusively to that line of things specially pertaining to 
 my department, and in which I could feel I was doing 
 efficient work, and remained the more contented in this 
 view while stations were being held and work done by 
 men specially fitted. 
 
 But coming now for the first time to the establish- 
 ing of a station, I have from the first felt a different 
 sort of responsibility, and have specially tried, by con- 
 versations and otherwise, to enlighten the chief on the 
 end and purpose of our Mission ; so that when at last 
 he asked me why I did not teach the boys as well as 
 
THE GOOD NEWS A T KA VALA 
 
 269 
 
 the girls, although I was then obliged to say that we 
 must get settled first, etc., I was in a state of mind 
 favourable to being persuaded by myself to undertake 
 it. I needed a little thought and persuasion, because 
 I could not bear to commence it and then give it up ; 
 so one day I announced the boys' school, which has 
 been continued daily. Then the chief said, " Why don't 
 you instruct the adults ? " I said, " Wait," and he asked 
 again. After prayer and consideration I undertook 
 this also, although experiment shows that the class will 
 become one of youths rather than adults ; the former 
 thoroughly believing in us, while the latter hold fast 
 (now at least) to their old traditions. The chief him- 
 self, however, has been much influenced, and I think, to 
 commence with, is disposed to place great credence in 
 anything we promulgate. As I have never been 
 specially ordained to this work, I shall give you some 
 particulars of my method of procedure. The boys' 
 school is designed to teach the boys Kiswahili, especially 
 with a view to enabling them to read the Scriptures 
 and to understand religious teaching in that language. 
 They are very interested, but they could not stand 
 the monotony of incessant alphabet and syllables ; 
 and so I teach them other odd words, forming keys 
 to early Scripture teaching, and have commenced a 
 sort of catechism on the lines of the Peep of Day in 
 endeavour to keep them parallel with the religious 
 instruction class. The girls' school is conducted much 
 on the same lines, but has got so far as to open daily 
 with prayer. Feeling that the forms of religion are 
 as essential (before attainment of knowledge) to the 
 religious teaching of these people as to our children, 
 and that if I exhorted the people to worship God there 
 must be worship for them to come to, I undertook to 
 conduct the same on Sunday mornings in the Kiswa- 
 
270 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 hili language. The service is short, and follows very 
 much the order of that of the Church of England, the 
 preaching of the Gospel being done in the afternoon 
 class at present, until such time as a few intelligent 
 hearers exist. By degrees we hope to improve and 
 enlarge ; but I think it well, although few yet under- 
 standing, to maintain the regular, and, I may say, 
 formal service, always accompanied by the necessary 
 " instruction class. 1 ' The fact is, that while in the 
 former my hearers require considerable education 
 before they can understand the classical Kiswahili 
 I read, they are deeply interested when, in the latter, 
 I explain matters in a conversational lingo on their 
 own level. Meantime I am myself rapidly attaining 
 a higher standard of Kiswahili than I have been 
 accustomed to use, assisted also by my wife, who, 
 although often requiring my interpretation in ordinary 
 transactions, is well able to correct me in every sen- 
 tence. 
 
 I have just come out of church, and it came to my 
 mind how, if you and others could only see us here now, 
 you would indeed rejoice even at the small beginning 
 which is being made. The church bell, the Sunday 
 clothes, little Jack and Mrs. Hore with their books, 
 and other Sunday signs, stir me with joy, and indeed 
 astonishment. We had an attendance of about thirty- 
 five real natives, all attentive and orderly. Will you 
 not send them a preacher ? I have already made some 
 improvement in the service, reading the Scriptures 
 and introducing prayers for the chief and people, and 
 for our own chiefs and people. The next step will be 
 a short address. I am afraid it must be in lingo. 
 This is a great question with me. Shall I build a 
 hasty structure in lingo, or slowly lay more solid 
 foundations in good Kiswahili ? Will you please bring 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 271 
 
 this question before our directors (in the larger aspect, 
 of course)? 
 
 The various languages — say, for convenience, dia- 
 lects — round the lake are numerous, and some spoken 
 only by a few people. These dialects are not copious 
 enough for religious teaching, and by the time they are 
 acquired, enriched, and put on paper, there may be 
 few to use some of them, and many languages in the 
 one mission. On the other hand, there already exists 
 a literature, including nearly the whole Bible, in 
 Kiswahili. It is fashionable with the Tanganyika 
 natives, as English is with the Japanese ; and once 
 common here, would soon become the language of all 
 East Africa. 
 
 It will be seen that from September 1885 Mrs. 
 Hore and Jack, Mr. Swann and I, were all of our 
 Mission now remaining on the lake, and so we 
 continued till July of 1886. 
 
 The entire lining and internal fittings, the deck, 
 upper works, and rigging, the boiler and machinery 
 of the Good News still remained to be put together 
 and attached to the hull ; the masts were yet grow- 
 ing somewhere on the forest slopes of the lake shore. 
 Some fittings (lost on the Nyassa route) were only 
 now coming to us from Zanzibar. The last stores 
 by Nyassa had only just arrived. 
 
 Month after month Mr. Swann worked in the 
 shed at the ironwork, while I worked on board, 
 superintending, meantime, the erection of workshops, 
 
272 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 boat-sheds, and houses, and the making of roads ; 
 dropping our tools at intervals for a voyage to 
 Ujiji with and for the mails, generally taking it in 
 turns. Then the dry dock was built ; trees were 
 cut on the opposite shore for the masts and laid 
 down to season, and gradually the Good News grew 
 in beautiful detail. 
 
 Friends at home had not been unmindful of the 
 situation ; sad as the news had been, the total 
 result was a determination to reinforce the Mission, 
 so that in the midst of all this work we heard the 
 cheering news that the directors had resolved to send 
 out an engineer to assist in the completion of the 
 Good News, and an ordained and a medical mission- 
 ary for Kavala. Accordingly there left England 
 for this purpose in March 1886, Mr. Alexander 
 Carson, B.Sc. ; in June, Rev. G. H. Lea ; and in 
 September, Dr. J. K. Tomory. 
 
 Mr. Lea was to come out by the Zanzibar route, 
 and on the 16th February 1886 we despatched our 
 head man Ulaya to the coast as the very best escort 
 we could offer him. 
 
 On 7th June, the dry dock being completed, the 
 vessel was placed in it and a good job made of clean- 
 ing her bottom and repainting ; thus thoroughly 
 testing also the efficiency of the dock. 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 273 
 
 On the 28th the mainmast was put in, then the 
 mizzen-mast, and by the end of the month the 
 rigging was set up and the vessel practically com- 
 plete as a sailing vessel. The cabin fittings and 
 other things for comfort and appearance still left 
 some months of work, thus short-handed and busy 
 with many affairs. 
 
 Mr. Swann had gone to Niumkorlo in the 
 Morning Slar to fetch Mr. Carson, who came out by 
 the Nyassa route. 
 
 They arrived at Kavala on 4th July, and right 
 glad we were to see and welcome our new colleague 
 in such good condition as he arrived. 
 
 A house was ready for him, and this was the case 
 for each missionary who arrived at Kavala. 
 
 Five days after, the riveting of the boiler com- 
 menced, Messrs. Carson and Swann working together 
 for nearly two months at this, the heaviest of the 
 work : made heavier and more difficult in that the 
 dome part, originally riveted at home, had been 
 separated at Nyassa for easy transport. 
 
 On 2 2d July we had a visit from Tippu Tib 
 and his relation and agent, our old acquaintance 
 Mohammed - bin -Alfan. Tippu assured us of his 
 continued friendship and protection, and promised to 
 use his influence to prevent disturbances at the south 
 
 T 
 
274 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 end of the lake. At this interview, and again at 
 Ujiji when I met him there, he expressed his desire 
 for more settled life and occupation under some 
 European government or other extensive enterprise. 
 He had much to say on many African matters, and 
 produced to me undeniable evidence of immorality 
 and various abuses following and clustering round 
 European enterprises, as bad at least as the abuses 
 said to attend upon Arab residence and progress in 
 Africa. 
 
 On 8th September Mr. Swann sailed in the 
 Alfajiri for the south end on a visit to England. 
 For over four years he had been through all our 
 most difficult times, had shared in the greatest hard- 
 ships and hardest work, and was now returning to 
 England, intending to come back again to the service 
 he loved and had promoted nobly and well. 
 
 On 25th September we got news of Mr. Lea's 
 arrival at Ujiji. Next day I sailed and welcomed 
 him there, and on 1st October we were back at 
 Kavala. 
 
 On 9th December I sailed again to Ujiji and 
 received Mr. Shaw, who had come from Urambo for 
 our committee meeting. He had a most interesting 
 account to give of the work at Urambo : a sub- 
 stantial new mission -house had been built there, 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 275 
 
 Mirambo's successor was favourable to the Mission, 
 the school instruction and preaching was proceeding, 
 besides a system of itineration in the villages. Mr. 
 Shaw had in fact fairly established the work, and, 
 from the accounts he gave, our committee requested 
 the directors to send further help for that promising 
 field. 
 
 On the 20th I took Mr. Shaw to Ujiji, whence 
 he journeyed back to Urambo. 
 
 In the various services of the Mission during 1886 
 our boats made twenty voyages, sailing a distance of 
 over 2000 miles. 
 
 YVe were still waiting anxiously for certain Good 
 News fittings (lost on the Nyassa route, but now 
 their duplicates to come to us by Zanzibar and Ujiji) 
 to arrive before the engine and boiler could be com- 
 pletely fitted. 
 
 We still had plenty of work, however, about 
 the hull and rigging and internal fittings, and the 
 daily round of life at Kavala had already assumed 
 the regular, interesting details of a hopefully progress- 
 ing mission station. 
 
 We had now arrived at a critical and important 
 stage in the foundation and establishment of our 
 missionary station at Kavala, when we needed not 
 only more help (in consequence of the growing 
 
276 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 work and our increasing weakness) but the aid of 
 specialists in the various departments, and in due 
 course these were all provided and sent out. 
 
 The Good News was afloat, decked, masted, and 
 rigged ; an ample engineer's workshop erected, with 
 shears and other arrangements all standing ready for 
 manipulating the boiler, the plates and rivets of 
 which were ready, but for which the technical skill 
 of an engineer was so desirable in order to make a 
 superior finish, when Mr. Carson arrived to us, who 
 so ably and well completed this part of our vessel's 
 equipment. 
 
 The little church was built, the service was 
 already instituted, and a congregation waiting to be 
 further instructed, needing the scholarly aid of a 
 skilled linguist and Christian teacher, when Rev. 
 Geo. H. Lea arrived to supply the need. 
 
 The dispensary was erected ; the natives far and 
 wide had learned to appreciate such rough surgical 
 and medical aid as we had been able to render 
 them, but there were many sufferers whom we were 
 deficient in skill to aid, and we ourselves again and 
 again lacking the help that a medical man would be 
 able to afford, when we had the news of the com- 
 ing of Dr. Tomory to complete the equipment of our 
 work in all its branches. 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 277 
 
 We reckoned that it was possible for Dr. Tomory 
 (who was coming by the Nyassa route) to be at the 
 south end of Tanganyika by a certain date, and as 
 there was now no station there it would be necessary 
 that one of our boats should be there to meet him. 
 At the same time it was undesirable that I should 
 be away a long time from Kavala. It was arranged 
 therefore that means should be provided for meeting 
 him in case he made a quick passage, and I should 
 go myself later on. 
 
 On 26th February 1887, therefore, the Alfajiri 
 was sent to Niumkorlo to await Dr. Tomory, or my 
 arrival in the Morning Star. On the 5 th March I 
 sailed south and communicated with Nyassa by 
 messengers. Waiting there some time, I victualled 
 the Alfajiri for a stay, and returning to Kavala 
 1st April, found Mrs. Hore in a very critical condition 
 and poor Jack just recovering from smallpox. 
 
 Being uncertain as to Dr. Tomory's time of 
 arrival, but it being indispensable to meet him, there 
 seemed nothing for it but to cruise backwards and 
 forwards, alternately visiting Kavala and Niumkorlo. 
 
 On the 8th I sailed again south, visiting my men 
 in the Alfajiri, and had again to go back without 
 tidings. Arriving once more at Kavala, I found Mr. 
 Lea very unwell, and on the 28th he decided to go 
 
278 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 home. The same day I had to sail to Ujiji to 
 receive goods brought up for us by Raschid, the 
 agent of Mr. Stokes, who had contracted for that 
 purpose. 
 
 Under all this pressure of business I was obliged 
 in order to save time to charter two Arab boats at 
 Ujiji, so as to convey all the goods without making a 
 return trip, and this was safely accomplished by the 
 ioth, and all arrangements made for another voyage 
 to the south, conveying thither Mr. Lea on his way 
 home by the Nyassa route, and hoping at last to find 
 that Dr. Tomory had arrived. 
 
 We sailed on the 13th, but owing to long-con- 
 tinued strong southerly gales made one of the very 
 longest passages, and arrived at the south end to find 
 that Dr. Tomory had arrived, and not caring to wait 
 longer, had sailed two days before in the Alfajiri, 
 leaving the remainder of his goods in care of one or 
 two of the men on the adjacent island. He duly 
 arrived at Kavala on the 6th June. 
 
 Having looked up men for porters at some of the 
 villages we called at along the coast, we were soon 
 able to organise a sufficiently large party for Mr. 
 Lea's escort to Nyassa, and bidding him farewell, I 
 sailed at once to Mpete with a load of Dr. Tomory's 
 goods, which I left there in the care of our friend the 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT K'AVALA 
 
 279 
 
 chieftainess Mwema until I could send for them. 
 Then loading up the remainder at Niumkorlo, I once 
 more ran home quickly to Kavala before a strong 
 southerly gale, arriving on 13th June. The Alfajiri 
 was then despatched as soon as possible to bring the 
 ramainder of the goods from Mwema's, and came 
 safely back with them on 29th July. 
 
 I had thus cruised about at the worst time of 
 year (and a specially rough time it was) some 1300 
 miles (besides the voyages of the Alfajiri) to fetch 
 Dr. Tomory from the south end. 
 
 Leaving England 25th September 1886, he 
 arrived at the south end of Tanganyika at the end 
 of May 1887 — nearer to "eight months" than any 
 of our other journeys. 
 
 Again we were able, when Dr. Tomory came to 
 us, to supply the new arrival with a house and a 
 trained servant to start with, and welcome him into 
 our little community. Many calls were at once made 
 upon his kind attention, both by ourselves and the 
 natives and their chief, and he soon had his busy 
 daily round of medical work. 
 
 These voyages and events had somewhat thrown 
 us back, but still the work was proceeding. Mrs. 
 Hore had patiently carried on the school work, and 
 by other means quietly and daily represented the 
 
280 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Mission to the people. Mr. Carson had finished 
 refitting the engine, and now we had the very 
 interesting if somewhat difficult work of putting the 
 boiler into the vessel. Shears were made with trees 
 we had cut on the mainland, and rigged up by help 
 of the chain cable and anchor ; and by rendering the 
 boiler buoyant with tight air space and other parts 
 plugged with pithwood, it was floated to its place 
 under the shears and safely hoisted on board. 
 
 On the 7th September steam was got up, and 
 with all our party on board we made a short trial- 
 trip out into the straits. It was a time of great and 
 thankful rejoicing with us as after many days we 
 found ourselves steaming out on the waters of Tan- 
 ganyika at last in our beautiful vessel, now practically 
 complete in all essentials. Every plate and plank of 
 her has a history, and every rivet a story of months 
 and years of labour only known to a few. The com- 
 plete and beautiful vessel herself has before her, we 
 trust, a long and eventful life of useful service to the 
 glory of God and the extension of His kingdom. 
 
 With the completion of the work of my own 
 special department — the building, equipment, and 
 establishment of the Good News as our perfected 
 means on the lake of support, transport, mails, and 
 of intercommunication — I began to feel the effects in 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 281 
 
 my own person of these years of work and anxiety. 
 There were still both arriving and promising, new 
 and strong and devoted workers to build upon the 
 foundations laid ; and while feeling necessarily some 
 regret at leaving scenes and labours and people 
 which had become endeared by many memories, 
 both Mrs. Hore and myself, while realising that the 
 time of our departure was at hand, could now 
 leave with a good heart, with rejoicing and satis- 
 faction at what God had already' wrought in this 
 place, and a hopeful view of its future continuance 
 and extension. Some reverses, however, we had still 
 to face. Dr. Tomory, ever since his first coming 
 amongst us, had not enjoyed the best of health, and 
 now, after repeated illness, we all realised that he 
 would be unable to stay. On the 20th August, 
 after consultation, we all agreed with him that it 
 would be best to return to England, and indeed 
 would have arranged for his quick departure had it 
 been possible. Another consignment of goods had 
 arrived at Ujiji and must be brought over ; the trial- 
 trip and other matters caused altogether a delay of 
 a whole month, but Dr. Tomory got the comfort of 
 the passage to the south end in the Good News, 
 instead of in one of the smaller boats. 
 
 On the 1 2th September we sailed in the Good 
 
282 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Neivs on her first voyage to Kigoma (a spacious 
 harbour on the east side of Ujiji), where we met our 
 caravan from the coast and loaded up. 
 
 Visitors, both Arab and native, flocked to Kigoma 
 to inspect this new wonder, and on this voyage I 
 felt that the crowning event of ten years' work was 
 achieved ; nor would I grudge one of those days of 
 hardship or difficulty that might in any way have 
 been instrumental to this end. 
 
 Further help was soon to come to us. Mr. 
 Jones was to return again to the lake. On I ith 
 May Mr. and Mrs. Jones and Rev. R. Stewart Wright 
 left England, and proceeding by the Nyassa route, 
 reached Fwambo, two days' journey from the south 
 end of Tanganyika, and on the heights above it, on 
 2 ist September. 
 
 Having returned from Ujiji, and leaving the 
 Kavala station once more in Mrs. Hore's charge, we 
 sailed in the Good News for Niumkorlo ; conveying 
 Dr. Tomory on his way home and goods for Messrs. 
 Jones and Wright, whom we hoped to meet there. 
 Those brethren were just locating themselves at 
 Fwambo, and while they were building we brought 
 Mrs. Jones to Kavala for a change. 
 
 Mr. Carson, amidst all his work, had been 
 gradually preparing himself for sharing in school 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 283 
 
 duties ; and in October he took over charge of the 
 boys' school, which he steadily continued henceforth. 
 
 Another voyage to the south, taking back Mrs. 
 Jones and the remainder of goods, and a voyage 
 to Ujiji, completed in this year (1887) nineteen 
 voyages made by our boats: altogether over 4 5 00 
 miles, of which 1 100 were done under steam. 
 
 It had already been arranged that Mrs. Hore and 
 I should go home in 188S. The Good News was 
 running ; Kavala Island station was established and 
 regular Christian teaching going on ; and now another 
 station was coming into existence at the south end, 
 enabling us to retire under cheerful auspices. 
 
 More changes, however, were to take place. On 
 the 23d January 1888 Mrs. Hore was again left 
 alone while we went to Niumkorlo with mails and 
 further supplies. Mr. Wright came on board and 
 told us of the fighting at Nyassa between the African 
 Lakes Company and the Arabs there. I did not 
 fear any attack by the Arabs, but there was certainly 
 risk to our south end station from the resulting 
 disturbance amongst both natives and Arabs, and we 
 all thought it would be prudent that all should come 
 together for a time to Kavala Island. We again 
 sailed, to return shortly, prepared to bring our 
 brethren away. 
 
284 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 North of Nyassa there are two places where 
 so-called Arabs congregate : Kabunda and his con- 
 nections in the Lofu River, and another community 
 in Itawa. I communicated with both of them, stat- 
 ing our neutrality in regard to the warfare, and 
 found that my information was the first news they 
 had that there tuas any war ! and in both cases, 
 and also at Ujiji, they stated their intention to have 
 nothing to do with it, and keep up their friendly 
 relations with us. And in this they were through- 
 out that trouble quite consistent. The subsequent 
 ill-feeling of certain "rabble" at Ujiji since that 
 time arose out of their confused view of German 
 action at the coast. 
 
 Reaching Kavala, we at once prepared accommo- 
 dation there for Messrs. Jones and Wright, and 
 despatched the Alfajiri, well fitted out, to lie at 
 Niumkorlo under their orders in case of need. After 
 various necessary work, we again sailed in the Good 
 News on 25th February. At Niumkorlo, in united 
 committee, it was decided to remove to Kavala as 
 had been suggested. Mr. Wright accordingly came 
 on board with his goods, but Mr. Jones decided to 
 remain at Fwambo. 
 
 Returning to Kavala, therefore, Mr. Wright settled 
 down there, and very soon secured the friendship of 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 2S5 
 
 the people, especially by his medical work, and, as 
 soon as he was able, the work of teaching also. 
 
 We continued to keep up communication, by means 
 of voyages of the Alfajiri, with Mr. and Mrs. Jones. 
 
 Early in June we met the caravan of supplies 
 from the coast at Ujiji, and soon after Mrs. Hore 
 and I prepared to return home. By the latest news 
 from the south we heard that Mr. and Mrs. Jones 
 were living in health and safety, and giving hopeful 
 accounts of commencing work. 
 
 On Kavala Messrs. Carson and Wright had taken 
 in hand the schools and services, and we felt that 
 God's care and blessing was evidently upon the 
 enterprises we had undertaken and so far completed 
 in His name. 
 
 The station at Kavala was established with clear 
 declaration to the natives of our purpose and in- 
 tention to teach them about God, to impart His 
 message of love in Christ and salvation through 
 Him, without any political or commercial aims. 
 Throughout we had had their attention and friend- 
 ship ; to the extent of our ability the Gospel had 
 been preached ; to a most promising extent the 
 young of both sexes had been civilised and taught ; 
 and although but little impression seemed to be made 
 upon the adults, numbers of the young people had 
 
286 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 considerable knowledge of Christian truth : some 
 were just beginning to read the Bible in their own 
 language and to join intelligently in Christian wor- 
 ship ; and at this stage, trusting in God's continued 
 blessing upon it, we left the work in the hands of 
 our brethren. 
 
 Leaving Kavala Island in the Alfajiri on the 9th 
 June, we sailed to Ujiji, whence we started for the 
 coast on the 14th. At Urambo we met Mr. Brooks 
 and attended a service in the little church there 
 amongst the people of the station. The splendid 
 new mission-house and buildings, trim garden, and the 
 friendly relations with all the people were very pleas- 
 ing : all seems prepared, if we can only get the teachers 
 to come and use these God-given opportunities. 
 
 Mr. Shaw had returned to England, but was even 
 now on his way back. 
 
 Mr. Brooks, remaining in charge, continued to 
 carry on the schools, and has given very pleasing 
 accounts of frequent visits among the people and to 
 distant villages, preaching and teaching as far as 
 possible the glad tidings of salvation. 
 
 At Mpwapwa we were entertained once more by 
 Mr. Price of the C.M.S., an earnest and faithful 
 worker, who has since proved also to be one of those 
 who decline to come away from the post of duty. 
 
THE GOOD NEWS AT KAVALA 
 
 2S7 
 
 Near Kitanga we met the up -coming caravan 
 with Mr. and Mrs. Swann, Mr. and Mrs. Hemans, 
 and Dr. Mather, all bound to Tanganyika. 
 
 At Mkange we met Mr. and Mrs. Shaw and Mr. 
 Draper on their way to Urambo. 
 
 At Saadani (seventy- two days from Ujiji) our 
 loyal old friend Bvvana Heri was as hospitable as 
 ever, and procured a dhow to take us to Zanzibar. 
 
 I here leave on record the dates and times of 
 my five marches between the East Coast ancf the 
 heart of Africa. 
 
 6 months. 
 
 1877. Saadani to Mpwapwa with heavy 
 
 bullock-waggons ; backwards and 
 forwards, road -making and or- 
 ganising, nearly . 
 
 1878. Mpwapwa to Ujiji .... 72 days. 
 
 I expect it was the very unfair calculation of 
 these two items that gave rise to the statement that 
 it takes eight months to get from the coast to Ujiji. 
 
 1880-81. Ujiji to Saadani .... 62 days. 
 1882. Saadani to Ujiji: a heavy cara. 
 
 van with six carts . . . J ^ a y S- 
 1 884-85. Saadani to Ujiji : a heavy caravan, "i 
 
 with Mrs. Hore and child . J 90 days ' 
 1888. Ujiji to Saadani with Mrs Hore'l 
 
 and child . . . ./ 72 da y s - 
 
 Landing at Zanzibar on 1st September in the 
 
288 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 early morning, we felt, for the first time for some 
 years, " strangers and foreigners," as in the dhow 
 lying almost broadside on the mud we waited for 
 daylight, and then, leaving my wife sitting on her 
 box in the street, I wandered off to wake up the 
 European custom-house officer to come and examine 
 our luggage : the boxes which eleven years before 
 H.H. Seyid Barghash had permitted to pass free as 
 being " for the good of the country." Coming back 
 to my wife and child, cold and sleepy, stared at by 
 the loafers on the quay, and altogether in a condi- 
 tion they had seldom been in in all our years up 
 country, she asked me if " this was coming back to 
 civilisation," and expressed a wish that she was 
 " back at Kavala ! " 
 
 And amongst the memories of our lives, the 
 gathering intelligence of the little ones there, the joy 
 of telling the good news to those dark people, the 
 indications amongst them of receptiveness for en- 
 lightening truth, and, indeed, their personal friendship, 
 are some of the brightest, as we think of Kavala 
 and Tanganyika, and appeal to our fellow-Christians 
 to go up, in God's name, and possess the land in 
 full which He has given us. The words of David 
 Livingstone's appeal from Ujiji were true : " You don't 
 know what you can do until you try!' 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 LOOKING BACKWARD AND 
 FORWARD 
 
 " Hitherto hath the Lord helped us." 
 " And, lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end."' 
 
 U 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 LOOKING BACKWARD AND FORWARD 
 1SSS-1891 
 
 SINCE the events recorded in the foregoing 
 chapters, concurrent with my own experiences, 
 the history of the Central African Mission has been 
 practically that of most other Christian missions : 
 difficulties of many kinds encountered, wearing down 
 the health and strength of some of its agents, 
 disturbing and even breaking up some of its 
 agencies, yet effectually dealt with and eventually 
 overcome. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Shaw and Mr. Draper duly arrived 
 at their station at Urambo, which has stood intact 
 amidst the disturbances arising from the process of 
 annexation of their share of tropical Africa by the 
 Germans. Difficulties of more local character also 
 have from time to time disturbed the work and 
 threatened to endanger our brethren ; but still the 
 work has gone on, and most encouraging reports 
 
292 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 come to us of its successful progress. Most notice- 
 able of all, perhaps, is the remarkable success of Mrs. 
 Shaw in gathering around her the Wanyamwezi girls 
 and women, and laying the foundations in their 
 hearts and minds of the purifying and enlightening 
 influences of Christianity. 
 
 Ten days after the arrival of Mr. Shaw at 
 Urambo, Mr. A. Brooks started for the coast on 
 his way home. The coast region was in a state 
 of turmoil following its annexation. Into this dis- 
 turbed area Mr. Brooks came with his small party, 
 and at Mkange, about sixteen miles from the 
 coast, on 21st January 1889, he and sixteen of his 
 African followers were killed by an armed party of 
 coast men. Mr. Brooks had been nearly seven 
 years connected with the Mission, and, by no means 
 worn out, was hoping, after a rest in England, to 
 return again to his field of labour. This is the only 
 case in which a member of the Mission has suffered 
 violence at the hands of Africans, and it must not 
 be forgotten that this sad occurrence took place 
 during a time of desperate excitement caused by 
 the coming of Europeans, during which, although 
 many of the disreputable took advantage of it for 
 robbery and pillage, many others were compulsory 
 wanderers, rendered desperate by the destruction of 
 
LOOKING BACKWARD AND FORWARD 
 
 293 
 
 their homes, and under sentence of outlawry for what 
 to them was defensive action against unexplained 
 attack or seizure by foreigners. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Swann and Mr. and Mrs. Hemans 
 and Dr. Mather in due course arrived at Tanganyika, 
 and were enabled at once to take up their work at 
 Kavala and the south end. Soon afterwards, how- 
 ever, Messrs. Swann, Wright, and Carson removed 
 from Kavala Island and established a station at 
 Niumkorlo at the south end of the lake. In that 
 neighbourhood the whole of the mission during the 
 year or more of agitation to which native society far 
 and wide was given up was subjected to difficulty 
 and danger. For a long time, by reason of war and 
 rumours of war preventing the passage either of 
 caravans or couriers, communication was cut off, and 
 they were reduced to a position of isolation and 
 deprived of necessary supplies. The practical com- 
 mon sense of some of the better-class Arabs, especi- 
 ally Tippu Tib and Mohammed-bin-Alfan, enabling 
 them to understand that our missionaries were in 
 no way responsible for the causes of those disturb- 
 ances, secured to them the continued friendship of 
 those influential and powerful leaders, which proved 
 of great assistance in the time of greatest need ; and 
 renewed communication found our brethren not only 
 
294 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 at their posts, but steadily progressing with the good 
 work in their hands. 
 
 Of that work, in all its branches of translation of 
 Scriptures, preaching of the Word, and teaching of the 
 young, at the two stations in Ulungu, most pleasing 
 periodical reports are now coming to us, the full 
 details of which no doubt will be described by some 
 of those engaged in it in the fuller history of this 
 era of the Mission which lies beyond the date and 
 scope of this volume. 
 
 Toward the end of 1890 Rev. Stewart Wright, 
 after sharing the most difficult times above referred 
 to, and having suffered very severely from smallpox, 
 was compelled to return home, arriving in England 
 on 13th December. In April 1891 Mr. Carson also 
 arrived home after five years of steady service in the 
 many departments of work he had so ably carried out. 
 
 For the increasing work at Urambo the services 
 were secured of Dr. G. A. Wolfendale, and after 
 encountering the strange new experience for us of 
 having to recross from the mainland to Zanzibar to 
 obtain a passport, he successfully accomplished the 
 long overland march by Saadani and Mpwapwa, and 
 reached Urambo station 14th October 1890, com- 
 pleting a substantial and able missionary staff at 
 that place. 
 
LOOKING BACKWARD AND FORWARD 295 
 
 For Tanganyika, Miss Mawson and Rev. J. F. 
 Southwell proceeded by the Zambesi route. Mr. 
 Southwell has, however, been invalided home, but Miss 
 Mawson proceeded, and was married to Dr. Mather 
 at Domasi, near Blantyre, on 25th September 1 89 1 . 
 
 It is very noticeable that during the period thus 
 briefly recorded, excepting the unfortunate loss of 
 Mr. Brooks, no members of our mission staff have 
 been removed by death, pointing to the fact I have 
 already suggested that the high death-rate of the 
 first few years was due rather to the hard conditions 
 of life and work in general than to the climate. 
 Now we have houses built and natives trained, now 
 that we understand the conditions of things better, — 
 the suitable diet, time of travel, way of life, etc., 
 — the record is altogether different. 
 
 In the renewed quietude of the present the work 
 
 is thus steadily progressing in the hands of our 
 
 brethren and sisters at the three stations Urambo, 
 
 Niumkorlo, and Fwambo, and calling loudly in the 
 t 
 
 success it indicates not only for continued support, but 
 for extension. 
 
 Far into the darkness of Africa rays of Christian 
 influence have already extended. Three hundred 
 miles up the river Niger, 1000 miles up the Congo, 
 again to the centre of the continent from Benguela, 
 
296 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 from the Cape 1500 miles northward, from the east 
 coast to and around the great lakes, the light of 
 Christianity has been carried. 
 
 The very practical nature of these enterprises is 
 amply shown in the systems of transport and com- 
 munication both by navigation and overland routes 
 and the many centres of civilising influence which 
 they have established, and by means of which the 
 progress of explorers and annexing governments and 
 companies has been achieved, of which so much 
 more has been heard than of the pioneer missionary 
 work which rendered it possible. 
 
 With a distance now of but 400 miles from the 
 north end of Tanganyika, reached and workable 
 by our s.s. Good News on that lake, to the Stanley 
 Falls, accessible to the missionary steamers upon 
 the Congo River, we and the representatives of those 
 other converging lines but await the continued and 
 extended interest and support of Christians in 
 England and America to join hands right across the 
 continent, assured, from past experience, that its 
 darkest places may be illumined by the all-penetrat- 
 ing and purifying Light. 
 
 In the work of our own Central African Mission 
 since its establishment in 1877 eleven men have 
 laid down their lives ; from its difficult conditions 
 
LOOKING BACKWARD AND FORWARD 297 
 
 of life and work twelve others have had to retire. 
 Still carrying on its work and representing us in the 
 heart of the Dark Continent, seven men and five 
 women are by their lives and their teaching holding 
 forth the Word of Life amongst people by whom 
 they are regarded as friends, and whose children, 
 gathered in the mission-schools, are even now com- 
 mencing to read for themselves the Word of God. 
 
 Thousands of pounds have been spent in this 
 work, not productive, certainly, of those dividends 
 which are being announced upon capital in those 
 parts of Africa which are yielding gold and diamonds, 
 nor of that weird exciting interest of successful battle 
 with the tribes of inner Africa yielded by other 
 expenditure ; but for the money expended in this 
 missionary enterprise we have the valuable results 
 of a line of peaceful influence of nearly 1000 miles 
 overland, and another line of IOOO miles around 
 Lake Tanganyika opened up to Christian and 
 civilising work — with systems of transport and 
 communication — dotted, so far as men and means 
 permit, with our stations. We have secured friendly 
 relations with the tribes along those lines, amongst 
 whom numbers of young men and women are now 
 growing up to a great extent civilised, with con- 
 siderable knowledge of Christianity, and trained in 
 
298 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 various industrial pursuits ; and there have been 
 revealed to us, in the course of this work, certain 
 rays of light upon the country itself, and upon the 
 character and condition of the people, which give 
 grand hope for its future and the progress of our 
 work amongst them. 
 
 It should be remembered also that for this expend- 
 iture we have no mere record of travel with funds 
 exhausted and apparatus worn out or thrown away ; 
 we have in possession a large mass of property, 
 houses, stores, tools, and a flotilla of boats placing 
 the whole of the shores of Tanganyika within our 
 reach by the best and most economical means. We 
 have the organisation, the plant, and the experience 
 which would enable us to establish a score of such 
 stations were the men and means to be had. 
 
 In 1878, reaching Ujiji through 836 miles of 
 swamp and jungle and forest, encountering every- 
 where uncivilised and barbarous man with no ray of 
 Christianity or other apparent light, mostly coming 
 out to meet us spear in hand, we encountered there 
 a mixed " rabble " in deadly opposition to our supposed 
 objects. Along the 1 000 miles of Tanganyika shore, 
 — unknown sea and land to be explored mile by 
 mile in a log canoe — the natives turning out with 
 spears and stones to oppose our landing, — homeless, 
 
LOOKIXG BACKWARD AND FORWARD 299 
 
 houseless, and often less the common necessaries of 
 life, we commenced in faith the race that was set 
 before us. 
 
 In 1888 all our missionaries were living in houses, 
 engaged in Christian teaching ; our names as friends 
 were known to all the tribes ; leading names amongst 
 the Arabs are to-day the names of friendly protectors 
 of our Mission ; our English-built mission vessels 
 are welcomed everywhere as the harbingers of peace 
 and goodwill ; and passing once more down the 
 long road to the coast, at our station at Urambo, and 
 at two others of the C.M.S., I witnessed assemblies 
 of natives to Christian worship, and found a well- 
 worn road free and open to the passage of any 
 honest man. 
 
 In the Annual Report of the Society for 1891 
 the existing condition and prospects of the Mission 
 are thus summed up : 
 
 " The position of the Central African Mission 
 will call forth, the directors are assured, thanksgiving 
 and prayer from the constituents of the Society every- 
 where — persistency has been at length rewarded. 
 The difficulties of the climate seem to a very large 
 extent surmounted by the choice of healthy sites for 
 stations. Difficulties of transit have, it is hoped, 
 been finally overcome. Difficulties with the natives 
 
30o 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 and the Arabs have been entirely avoided by a 
 prudent and conciliatory policy. Three firmly- 
 established centres of the work are now occupied — 
 two at the south end of Tanganyika and one at 
 Urambo. Two gospels have already been made at 
 the south end of Tanganyika by Mr. Jones. The 
 people have learned to assemble for worship, and 
 just at the close of the year the first convert was 
 baptised. News has since come of some others also." 
 
 If we fail to see the good work thus effected and 
 to follow it up, others will not. Consuls and officers 
 representing more than one European government, 
 traders, and the Roman Catholic Mission, have in 
 some places already entered into our labours, plant- 
 ing stations or announcing influence and authority 
 over and in chiefs and countries whom we had first 
 reconciled to the visits of strangers or opened up. 
 
 If we doubt whether men can live and work in 
 Central Africa, others do not ; for Europeans repre- 
 senting many enterprises are crowding into it from 
 all sides. 
 
 If we delay the prosecution of the good work, 
 other far-spreading influences will not delay, which 
 will render our task tenfold more difficult. We may 
 yet deal with the African native in his normal con- 
 
LOOKING BACKWARD AND FORWARD 301 
 
 dition of comparative innocence and calm. Later 
 on we shall have to contend with the excited and 
 demoralised condition of the native under many 
 disturbing influences, and the chief effort of Christian 
 missions will have to be directed to the evangelisation, 
 not of the barbarian, but of the civilised ; for if 
 certain processes now proceeding in Africa continue 
 to proceed, — processes of the engulfing of what we 
 call " heathenism and savagery " in the seething, 
 exciting bustle we call " civilisation " — and there is 
 every evidence that their progress is inevitable, — the 
 mass of civilised immorality will soon become greater 
 than the mass of heathenish ignorance. 
 
 Those whose sole desire is to proclaim Christ to 
 the heathen, and not simply the extension of any 
 one sect or society, must adapt themselves to the 
 new conditions of life in Africa. Time was when 
 -the heathen were only to be reached by the special 
 effort of single, isolated Christian teachers ; we now 
 touch them at many points. In political, commercial, 
 and domestic relations we are in contact with them 
 — relations at once raising responsibility and giving 
 opportunity, and through which also we may and 
 should reach them by securing at those points of 
 contact justice, peace, and purity ; praying and 
 working for Cliristianity in all our African enterprises. 
 
302 
 
 TANGANYIKA 
 
 Meantime, while opportunity yet remains, let us 
 redouble our efforts to Christianise the life and 
 thought of the yet infant heathen, — the easier task, — 
 that, with Christian manhood, they may be able to 
 meet (as some, thank God, have done) the flood of 
 excitement which is coming to them. 
 
 That such is possible we already know ; that 
 opportunity offers for its extended prosecution I have 
 endeavoured to point out. Men and means for its 
 continuance and extension are urgently needed ; 
 faith that He who has promised will fulfil ; hope in 
 God for blessing and for strength ; charity moving 
 us with compassion on the ignorance and suffering 
 of the millions of Africa living in utter darkness and 
 without God in the world. 
 
 "Journeying" (not casually, but vastly to our 
 enrichment), " we have come where they are," — we 
 have seen them helpless, prostrate, wounded, by the 
 " wayside " of the world ; shall we not " have 
 compassion on them and take care of them " ? for 
 undoubtedly they are some of the " neighbours " of 
 our Saviour's admonition. 
 
 The call to help, the command to go forward, 
 the promise of success, are all from our Lord and 
 Master. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Africa, general structure of, 130, 
 134 
 
 African International Association, 
 97 ; at Karema, 116 ; at Mpala, 
 159 ; at Unyanyembe, 173 
 
 African Lakes Company, 241, 246, 
 265 
 
 African tribes, characteristics and 
 distribution of, 134 - 137, 161- 
 166 ; of the Lake, 153-166 
 
 Arabs, 52, 69, 77, 157, 172, 236, 
 284 ; opposition by, 76, 95 ; 
 friendship of, 75, 86, 118, 172, 
 284, 293, 299 
 
 Arthington, Mr., 3 
 
 Barter goods and exchange, 71, 
 199 
 
 Baxter, Dr., 39, 49, 174 
 
 Boats (see catamaran, canoe, Cala- 
 bash, Mornitig Star, Good News) 
 
 Bridge, Mackay's, 24 ; Mirambo's, 
 S3 
 
 Brooks, Mr. A., 193, 263 ; not- 
 able work by, 286 ; death of, 
 292 
 
 Broyon, M. Philippe, 28, 39 ; loss 
 
 of caravan of, 92, 95 
 Bwana Heri (Lewali of Saadani), 
 
 15, 24, 31, 175, 287 
 
 Calabash, the, 80, 99 ; cruise of, 
 
 chap. v. , 230 ; last of, 265 
 Camp, description of, 18, 209 
 Cannibalism, 161 
 Canoes, 61, 83, 106, 140, 218 
 
 Caravan travelling, 33, 45, 50, 63, 
 199, 201, 208, 210 
 
 Carson, Mr. A., B.Sc. ,272; notable 
 work by, 276, 282 ; return of, 294 
 
 Carts for conveyance of boat, 205, 
 207, 210 
 
 Catamaran, 152, 154 
 
 Church Missionary Society, 3, 13, 
 52, 171, 175, 299 
 
 Clarke, Rev. E. S., 8, 14 ; depart- 
 ure of, 32 
 
 Committee meetings, Ujiji, 98, 100; 
 Urambo, 215 ; Kavala, 252 
 
 Congo missions, 295, 296 
 
 Debaize, the Abbe\ 86, 87, 95, 98 
 Dineen, Rev. J. H., 193, 231 ; 
 
 death of, 239 
 Dodgshun, Rev. A. W., 8, 31 ; 
 
 notable work and experiences of, 
 
 50, 91 ; death of, 94 
 Dunn, Mr. J., 193, 209, 221, 229 ; 
 
 notable work of, and death, 243 
 
 Earthquake, 89, 134 
 East African Missions, 3, 296 
 Expeditions, Xo. 1,7; Xo. 2, 192, 
 193 ; division of work and duties 
 in, 194 ; Xo. 3, 247-249 
 
 Fetichism, 165 
 
 F'ish of Tanganyika, 150 
 
 Frere, Sir Bartle, on missionary 
 
 operations, 5 
 Fwambo, station at, 284, 295 
 
3°4 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Geographical features, 56, 130- 
 134 
 
 Gombe River, 53 
 
 Goinbo Lake, 43, 47, 57 
 
 Good News, the s. s., 189 ; build- 
 ing of, 242, 251 ; launch of, 252 ; 
 voyages of, 260, 280, 281-284 
 
 Griffiths, Rev. W. , 97, 98, 177, 
 215 ; notable work by, 183 ; re- 
 turn of, 240 
 
 Hannington, Bishop, 199, 229 
 Harris, Rev. J., 244, 251, 259; 
 
 death of, 263 
 Hongo (toll or tribute), 51, 61, 217 
 Houses, coast, 17 ; native, 44, 159 ; 
 
 Arab, 70, 77 ; Mirambo's, 55 ; 
 
 missionary, 36, 170, 171, 261, 
 
 286 
 
 Hutley, Mr. W. , 8, 14, 91, 98, 99 ; 
 notable work by, 1 76 ; return of, 
 177 
 
 Industries, native, 54, 85, 159 ; 
 
 of the Lake tribes, 153-166 
 Instructions to missionaries, 6 ; for 
 
 scientific inquiry, 129 
 
 Jones, Rev. D. P., 194, 221 ; de- 
 parture of, 263 ; notable work 
 by, 263, 282 ; return of to Africa, 
 282 
 
 Journal, extracts from, on journeys, 
 22, 59 ; at Ujiji, 81 et seq. ; on 
 voyages, chap. v. ; at Kavala, 
 267 
 
 Journeys, times, rates, and distances 
 of, 31, 63, 208, 220, 250, 287 
 
 Kabunda (Arab settler), 233, 236 
 Karema, 114, 116 
 Kassanga (chief of Uguha), 95, 98, 
 99. "3 
 
 Kavala Island, 142, 243, 251, 258, 
 266, 271 
 
 Kirasa's, 29 ; temporary settlement 
 at, 36 
 
 Laird, Dr. F. , 244 ; illness and 
 return of, 247 
 
 Lake Gombo, 43 
 
 Lake I^eopold, 147 
 
 Land, sale of, tenure, etc., 90, jii 
 
 Languages for Missionary pur- 
 poses, 271 
 
 Lea, Rev. G. H., 272, 276 ; return 
 of, 278 
 
 Lifeboat (see Morning Star) 
 Livingstone, Dr., 4, 136, 157, 288 
 Loads for African transport, 32, 39, 
 45 
 
 Lofu River, visits to, 122, 233 ; 
 
 depot at, 234. 
 Lukuga River (outlet of Lake), 113, 
 
 147 
 
 Lusugi River, crossing the, 219 
 
 Mackay, Mr., 24, 25, 28, 39 
 Magunda Mkali, 51, 213, 249 
 Mail service, 79 
 
 Malagarasi River, 53, 112 ; crossing 
 the, 61, 217 ; overflow of, 60 
 
 Marenga Mkali, 51, 58 
 
 Marine department, outfit of, 105 ; 
 first report of, chap. v. ; import- 
 ance of, 227 
 
 Markets, 70, 152 
 
 Mchiropa, 25, 207, 209 
 
 Mirambo (chief of L'nyamwezi ), 48. 
 
 52. 56, 59. 9 2 . 97. 98. 99- 
 171, 250 
 
 Mohammed-bin-Alfan, 86, 96, 273, 
 293 
 
 Mohammed-bin-Gharib, 117 
 Morning Star (steel lifeboat), 
 
 dimensions, etc., 190; transport 
 
 of, 204 ; building of. 222 ; launch. 
 
 of, 223 ; voyages in, 230, 260, 
 
 chaps, x. and xi. 
 Mountains of the Moon, 57, 132 
 Mpwapwa, 5, 48, 58, 174, 229, 
 
 286 
 
 Msoero, 24, 25 
 Mtongoro, 113 
 
 Muinyi Heri (Lewali of Ujiji), 84, 
 117 
 
 Mukondokwa River, 29, 36. 43 
 Mullens, Rev. Dr., 4 ; death of, 
 
 97 ; grave of, 174 
 Mvaruma (chief at north end), 117 
 
INDEX 
 
 305 
 
 Native helpers, value of, 21, 31, 
 35, 110, 112, i2i, 184, 203, 
 221, 233, 249 
 Ndumi, 16, 24. 28 
 Niumkorlo, station at, 293 
 
 Outlet of Lake (see Lukuga River) 
 Outfit, 7, 191 ; on leaving Mpwa- 
 
 pwa, 50 ; necessity for, 193 
 Oxen for draught, 21, 26, 29 ; 
 given up, 39 ; from South Africa, 
 14, 26 ; drivers of, from South 
 Africa, 14, 26 ; failure of drivers, 
 26, 27 
 
 Palmer, Dr., 100 ; return of, 176 
 Penry, Rev. J., 194 ; illness of, 215 ; 
 
 return and death of, 229 
 Pioneer party, the, 8 
 Plymouth Rock station (see Uguha) 
 Political features of Africa, in, 137 
 Porters, African, incidents and 
 
 characteristics of, 28, 33, 35, 
 
 45, 46, 50, 63, 173, 248 ; 
 
 slander of, 248 
 Price, Rev. R., 4, 8, 14; notable 
 
 work by, 4, 25, 37 ; departure 
 
 of, 30 
 
 Quilimane, journey to, 244 
 
 Rees, Rev. B., 244, 250, 259; 
 
 return of, 263 
 Roads in coast region, 25, 29 
 Roman Catholic Mission, 80 ; at 
 
 Karema, 116 ; at Mpala, 159 
 Roxburgh, Mr. J. , 240 ; notable 
 
 work by, 252, 262 ; death of, 
 
 262 
 
 Rukigura River, crossing of, 34 
 
 Saadani, 15, 175, 201, 208, 287 
 
 St. Elmo's fire, 145 
 
 Sambo's story, 88 
 
 Scenery, descriptions of, 17, 43, 61, 
 
 87, 122 ; on Lake Tanganyika, 
 
 138-144 
 Scotch missions, 3, 245 
 Shaw, Rev. T. F. , 194, 209, 253; 
 
 notable work by, 253, 291 
 
 Shells of Tanganyika, 150 
 Slavery and the slave trade, 71-74, 
 
 85, 86, 88, 157, 160, 236 
 Smith, Lieutenant, 52 
 Southon, Dr., 97, 98; death of, 
 
 179; notable work by, 171, 181 
 Steamer (see Good News) 
 Stores, supply of, 7, 50, 191 ; 
 
 thinning down of, 21, 49 ; 
 
 necessity for, 193, 248 
 Swann, Mr. A. J.,- 193; notable 
 
 work by, 215, 252, 271, 274; 
 
 return of, to Africa, 293 
 
 Tanganyika, description of, 138 ; 
 as the heart of Africa — political, 
 r 37 I geographical, 134 ; ethno- 
 logical, 136 ; water of, 146 ; 
 climate, 146 ; temperature, etc., 
 145 ; fauna, 149 ; flora, 148 ; 
 fish, etc. , 150 
 
 Tippu Tib, 157, 236 ; interviews 
 with, 273, 293 
 
 Thomson, Rev. J. B. , 8, 14, 29; 
 illness of, 47 ; notable work by, 
 and death of, 78 
 
 Tomory, Dr., 272, 276, 278, 282 
 
 Travellers, conflicting accounts of, 
 58 
 
 Tribute (see Hongo) 
 Tsetse fly, 38 
 
 Ugogo, 51, 58, 210, 212 
 
 Ugoma, visit to, 119 
 
 Uguha, first visit to, 95 ; station 
 at, 98, 99, 113 ; missionary work 
 at, 183, 264 
 
 Ujiji, arrival at, 62, 220, 250 ; 
 description of, 67 ; life and in- 
 cidents at, chap. iv. 
 
 Ulungu, first visit to, 123 ; ex- 
 pedition to, 232 ; missionary 
 work in, 294 
 
 Universities' Mission, 3, 296 
 
 Unyamwezi, 52, 56, 59, 214, 216 
 
 Urambo, 55 ; station at, 98, 170 ; 
 halt at, 215 ; missionary work 
 at, 181, 253 
 
 Uyui, 59, 171, 214 
 
 X 
 
3°6 
 
 JNDEX 
 
 Villages, description of, 53, 55 
 Voyages on the Lake, 80, 95, 99, 
 chap, v., 266, 275, 279 
 
 Waggons, 7 ; popularity of, 28 ; 
 
 disused, 38 
 Wajiji, 90, 98, 121 
 Wamanyuema (as free labourers), 
 
 86, 87 
 Wami River, 29 
 Wanyamwezi, 52 
 Waterspouts, 143 
 White ants, 89 
 
 Witchcraft (author's condemnation 
 for), 118 
 
 Williams, Rev. D., 100 ; death of. 
 
 176; Mirambo's testimony to, 178 
 Willoughby, Rev. W. C. , 194, 209, 
 
 230 
 
 Will-o'-wisp, 141 
 
 Wookey, Rev. A. J., 100, 169 , 
 
 departure of, 176 
 Wright, Rev. R. S. , 282 ; work 
 
 by, 284 ; departure of, 294 
 
 Zambesi route, 244, 245 
 
 THE END 
 
 Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh. 
 
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