LIBRARY OF THE . Theological Seminar PRINCETON, N. J. sec Case Shelf VISITS TO THE CAPITALS OF JAPAN AND CHINA. BY THE SAME AUTHOR. TWO VISITS TO THE TEA COUNTRIES OF CHINA AND THE BRITISH TEA PLANTATIONS IN THE HIMALAYA. With a Narrative of Adventures, and a full Description of the Culture of the Tea Plant. Third Edition. Woodcuts. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 18s. n, A RESIDENCE AMONG THE CHINESE : Inland, on THE COAST, AND AT SEA: a Narrative of Scenes and Adventures during a Third Visit to China, 1853-56. With Notices of Works of Art, the Culture of Silk, See. Illustrations. 8vo. 15s. Also lately published, PICTURES OF THE CHINESE, DRAWN BY A NATIVE ARTIST, and described by A FOREIGN RESIDENT. With 34 Engravings. Crown 8vo. 9s. VIEW OF YOKUHAMA FROM THE HILLS BEHIND THE TOWN. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/yedopekingnarrat00fort_1 YE DO AND PEKING. A NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO THE CAPITALS OF JAPAN AND CHINA WITH NOTICES OP THE NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, AGRICULTURE, HORTICULTURE, AND TRADE OF THOSE COUNTRIES, AND OTHER THINGS MET WITH BY THE WAY. By ROBERT FORTUNE, HONORARY MEMBER OF THE AGRI-HORT. SOCIETY OF INDIA. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1863. The right of Translation is reserved. LONDON : PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. P R E F A C E. The Empire of Japan has been all but closed to tlie inhabitants of other nations for more than two hundred years. Except a few Dutch and Chinese, who were kept almost like prisoners at Nagasaki, no foreigners have been allowed to reside or trade in the country since about the year 1636. A great and unexpected change has now taken place ; Japan has not only opened some of her ports to foreign trade, but has also sent her Ambassadors to visit many of the principal Courts of Europe and America. The news of the success which attended the English and French forces in the earlier part of the late war with China was quickly wafted across the “ Eastern Sea ” to Yedo, and, doubtless, had no little effect in inducing the Tycoon and his Ministers (in an evil hour for them) to open their country to foreign intercourse. It is to be hoped that this re-entry into the great family of nations will not bring on those dissensions and wars which marked the period between 1560 and VI PREFACE. 1636, when the experiment was last tried ; for it is well known that, ever since foreigners were expelled from Japan, “ the land has had peace.’' This change of policy on the part of the Japanese Government gave me an opportunity which I had long desired of visiting the country. I was well aware that Japan was remarkable for the beauty of its scenery, and that it was rich in many species of trees, and other vegetable productions of an ornamental and useful kind, unknown in Europe. With the view of making collections of these and other objects of natural history and works of art, I took my departure for the “far East” in the summer of 1860, and reached Japan in the month of October of that year. The story of my wanderings is now presented to the reader, with the hope that it may add somewhat to the knowledge already acquired concerning this strange people and their very beautiful land. I have confined my descriptions in a great measure to what came under my own observation. The manners and customs of the people are painted as they appeared to me in their everyday life. The natural productions of the country, whether of commercial importance to other nations, or “ pleasant to the eye, and good for food,” I have very fully described ; and PREFACE. vii I have endeavoured to show that its export trade is capable of being greatly increased, particularly in those staple articles of tea and silk, which have now become almost necessaries of life amongst ourselves. The Agriculture of the country was carefully examined ; and, as it is in many respects some- what remarkable, a full description of it has been given in the following pages. I have also ven- tured to make a few observations on our political relations with this extraordinary people, which may be of some interest at the present time. Most of the illustrations were kindly sketched for me by Dr. Dickson of China. I am also indebted to my fellow-passenger, Dr. Barton, for some views in the Inland Sea, and for that of Castle Island, Cape Grotto. When I had finished my work in Japan, the Chinese war had been brought to a successful termination, and I was enabled to visit the new ports of Chefoo and Tien-tsin, on the Gulf of Pe-chele, and also the capital city of Peking itself, and the mountains which lie beyond it. In the concluding chapters of the work I have sought to give a faithful description of this part of my travels over a country which, until the last war, was almost as little known to Europeans as Japan itself. Mr. Wyndham, of H.M. Legation PREFACE. viii in Peking, furnished me with the sketch of the curious “ White-barked Pine ” of that country. Having thus given an outline of what may be expected in this narrative of my journey to the capitals of Zipangu and Cathay, I have only to solicit the kindness and indulgence of my readers, trusting that they will overlook the many faults of my imperfect performance. The Author. London , Feb'uai'y , 1863. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. First view of Japan — Curious islands — Papenberg — Massacre of Christians — Visit from the officials — Harbour of Nagasaki — Desima of old — Desima of the present day — Japanese factory — Town of Nagasaki — Tea-houses — Salamanders — Buddhist temples — Large camphor-trees — Tombs — Mimic processions — Dr. Siebold’s residence — Excursions — Epunga — Natural pro- ductions — Scenery — Trade of Nagasaki — Its capabilities as a Sanatarium Page 1 CHAPTER II. We leave Nagasaki — Van Dieman’s Strait — Gale of wind — Vries’s Island — View of Fusi-yama — Bay of Yedo — Yokuhama — Its value as a port for trade — Foreign houses — Native town — Shops — Bronzes, ivory carvings, and curiosities — Lacquer ware — Porcelain — Rock-crystal balls — Toys — Books and maps — Mena- gerie — The Gan-ke-ro — Surrounding country — Its geological formation 24 CHAPTER III. Town of Kanagawa — The Imperial highway — Travellers upon it — Princes — Pack-horses — Mendicant priests — Blind men — Beggars, &c. — Visit to the temple of Bokengee — The umbrella pine-tree — Sintoo temples — Scenery — Thatched roofs — Valuable elm — The farmer and his chrysanthemums — Tomi — His one fault — Temple of To-rin-gee — Scenery by the way — Thujopsis dolabrata — Farm-houses — Tea-plant — Fruit-trees — Yedo vine — Veget- ables — Trees and shrubs of the district — The male aucuba ■ — Geological features 40 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Journey from Kanagawa to Yedo — Native body-guard — The Tokaido — Civility of the people — Beggars by the wayside — Tea-houses — Kawasaky — River Loga — “ Mansion of Plum-trees ” — The ladies’ platform — Hostess and waiting-maids — Japanese and Chinese ladies compared — Tea-gardens — Sinagawa — English Legation — Hospitality of Mr. Alcock — Large cemetery — Garden and trees — The Yakoneens Page 63 CHAPTER V. The city of Yedo — Hill of the god Atango — Magnificent view of the city from its summit — “ Official quarter” — Broad streets — Castles of the feudal princes — The inner circle — Moats and massive walls — Clumps of trees — No embrasure or guns visible — Use of the moats and ramparts — Murder of the Regent or Gotiro — Fate of the murderers — The Harikaii — Castle of the Emperor — Kasmpfer’s description — “Belle Vue” — Population of Yedo — Size of the city 77 CHAPTER VI. The country round Yedo — Hill and valley — Trees — Autumnal fo- liage — Views of Fusi-yama — Cottages and farm-houses — Flowers and vegetables — Signs of high civilization — Public baths — Beau- tiful lanes and hedges — Avenues and groves — Civility of the people — Dogs and their prejudices — Street dogs — Lapdogs — Fire at the British Legation — Mode of giving alarm — Organization of Fire-brigade — Wretched engines — Presents from foreign govern- ments — More suitable ones pointed out 91 CHAPTER VII. A journey in search of new plants — Japanese College — Residence of Prince Kanga — Dang-o-zaka — Its tea-gardens, fish-ponds, and floral ladies — Nursery-gardens — Country people — Another excursion — Soldiers — Arrive at Su-mae-yah — Country covered with gardens — New plants — Mode of dwarfing — Variegated plants — Ogee, the Richmond of Yedo — Its tea-house — The Ty- coon’s hunting-ground — Fine views — Agricultural productions — A drunken man — Intemperance of the ]>eople generally .. 103 CONTENTS. xi CHAPTER VIII. Residence of the Abbe Girard — Singing-birds — Commercial quarter of Yedo — Shops — Paper, and the uses to which it is applied — Articles of food — Monkeys eaten — Fire-proof buildings — Nipon Bas — Ah-sax-saw — Its bazaars, temples, and tea-gardens — Fine chrysanthemums — Tea-plant — The Yedo river — The city oppo- site Yedo — Temple of Eco-ying — Its origin — Crowds of people — Curious scene in the temple — Earthquakes — Their frequency — How they are dreaded by the natives — Straw shoes of men and horses Page 120 CHAPTER IX. Leave Yedo — Mendicant nuns — Place of execution — Its appearance in the days of Kaempfer — Visit to a famous temple — Field crops by the way — Begging priests — Pear-trees — Holy water — Temple of Tetstze — Its priests and devotees — Inn of “ Ten Thousand Cen- turies ” — Kind reception — Waiting-maids and refreshments — Scenes on the highway — Believed from my yakoneen guard — New plants added to my collections — Names of the most valuable — Ward’s cases, their value — Plants shipped for China — Devout wishes for their prosperous voyage 136 CHAPTER X. Adieu to Yokuhama — Views of Mount Fusi — The Kino Channel and Inland Sea — Presents for the Queen — The port of Hiogo and town of Osaca — Important marts for trade — Good anchorage — Crowds of boats — Islands — Charming scenery — Daimios’ castles — Towns and villages — Gorgeous sunset — Village of Ino-sima — Terraced land — “ The pilot’s home ” — River-like sea • — Scenes on shore — Clean and comfortable houses — Fortress of Meara-sama — Visit of officials — Their manners and customs — Gale of wind — Extra- ordinary harbour — Southern Channel — Ship ashore — Two Jonahs on board — Nagasaki in winter — Arrival at Shanghae — Plants shipped for England 149 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. Return to Japan — Kite-flying at Nagasaki — Spring flowers — Field crops — Gale of wind in Yan Dieman’s Strait — Arrive at Yoko- hama — Insect and shell collecting — Reported difficulty in getting assistance from the natives — How to manage Orientals — Rare beetle — Dr. Adams’s account of its capture — Curious mode of catching fish — Visit Kanagawa — Agriculture in spring — Paddy cultivation — Mode of manuring the land — Winter crops nearly ripe — Trees and flowers — “ The Queen of the Primroses ” Page 171 CHAPTER XII. Invitation from the American Minister to visit Yedo — Inland road — Nanka-nobu tea-garden — Extraordinary Glycine — Pleasant lanes and hedges — Civility of the people — Arrive at the American Legation — Guard and spies — Large tree — Unpleasant diplomatic correspondence — Nursery gardens in the country visited — Summer flowers and new plants — Return to Yedo — A ride in the country — Mr. Heuskin’s tomb — “ Temple of Twelve Altars ” — Poets’ Avenue — How a drunken Japanese makes himself sober — Shoeing horses — Departure from Yedo — General remarks on the city and suburbs 187 CHAPTER XIII. Return to Kanagawa — Moxa and acupuncture — Mode of performing these operations — Their supposed value — Prospects of better medical and surgical knowledge in Japan — Roadside altar — Ladies at their prayers — The conclusion of the ceremony — Field crops and spring flowers at the end of May — Commencement of rains — Beautiful rainbow — A violent earthquake — Burning rape-stalks for manure — An English strawberry found — New plants discovered — Vegetables and fruit in the markets — Entomo- logical notices — Land shells — A Buddhist congregation — Their mode of worship — Amusing visit from the congregation — An interval in the service — Its conclusion 203 CHAPTER XIV. Journey into the country — Fine views by the way — Town of Kana- sawa — Our inn — Visit to a temple — The visitors’ book — Crowds CONTENTS. xiii in front of the inn — Their manners and customs — Japanese bed- rooms — Natural productions — Uncultivated land — Remarks on the extent of population in Japan — Fine views — Kamakura the ancient capital — An insane woman — Her extraordinary conduct — Our inn at Kamakura — Large bronze image — Its interior — Crowds and their behaviour — A tiffin and a siesta — Visit to the temples of Kamakura — The sacred stone — Yuritomo’s tomb — A page from Japanese history — Return to Kanagawa .. Page 221 CHAPTER XV. Assassinations — Supposed causes — The innocent suffer for the guilty — Japanese desire for revenge — Midnight attack on H. B. M. Legation — The scene next morning — Supposed reasons for the attack — Document found on a prisoner — Its translation — Opinions of Japanese ministers — True reasons for the attack — Instigators known — Weakness of government — Causes of its weakness — Its sincerity — The difficulties it has to encounter — Murder of Mr. Richardson — News of a revolution in Yedo .. 241 CHAPTER XVI. Climate of Japan — Dr. Hepburn’s tables — Hottest and coldest months — Monsoons — Gales of wind — The rainy season — Earthquakes — Agriculture — Rank of the farmer — Rocks and soil — Cultiva- tion of winter crops — Seed-time and harvest — Curious mode of harvesting — Summer crops on dry land — Mode of planting — Manures — Crops requiring irrigation — Cultivation of rice — Other crops — Animals few in number — Waste lands — Crops and seasons 264 CHAPTER XVII. Other productions of Japan — Silk, tea, &c. — Silk country — Value of silk — Tea districts — Curious statements on tea cultivation — Value of exports from Kanagawa in 1860-61 — Means of increasing the supplies of silk and tea — Prospects on the opening of the new ports — Japanese objections to the opening — The Tycoon’s letter to the Queen — Ministers’ letter to Mr. Alcock — Their recommenda- tions considered — Danger of opening Yedo at . present — Remarks on the other ports — Trade probably overrated — Japanese mer- XIV CONTENTS. cliants compared with Chinese — Prejudices against traders in Japan — Foreign officials and these prejudices — War with Japan not improbable Page 281 CHAPTER XVIII. Narrative resumed — Exciting times — Supposed attacks on M. de Wit and others — "Visit from the Governor of Kanagawa — Object of his visit — He inspects my collections — A question regarding my safety — A cautious and consolatory reply — Fences repaired and spiked — Guards stationed round the foreign dwellings — My re- searches in Japan come to an end — Plants put into Ward’s cases — Curiosity of the natives — Kindness of Captain Vyse — Adieu to Japan — Arrival in China . . ... 297 CHAPTER XIX. Leave Shanghae for Peking — Port of Chefoo — Agricultural and natural products — The Pei-ho river — Arrival at Tien-tsin — Salt- mounds — Suburbs — Mean buildings — Active trade — Noisy coolies — Shops — Large warehouses — Hawkers — Gambling pro- pensities of the people — The city — Ruinous ramparts — Filthy streets — Surrounding country— Salt plain — Gardens and nurseries — Winter houses for plants — Fruit-trees cultivated in pots — Fruit ice-houses — Vineyards — San-ko-lin-tsin’s Folly — Winter in Tien-tsin 305 CHAPTER XX. The people of Tien-tsin — Visit to a gentleman’s house — Reception — Street beggars — Begging musicians — Civil hospital established by the English — Dr. Lamprey’s report — Chinese poorhouse — Fat beggars — Climate and temperature — Dust-storms — Remark- able size of natural productions — Large men and horses — Shantung fowls — Gigantic millet, oily grain, and egg-apples — Jute — Vegetables in cultivation — Imperial granaries — Use of millet and jute stems — Foreign trade — New settlement for foreign merchants — The future of Tien-tsin as a centre of trade . . . . . 326 CONTENTS. xv CHAPTER XXI. Leave Tien-tsin for Peking — My passport — Mode of travelling — Carts and wretched roads — Hotel at Tsai-tsoun — Towns of Hoose-woo, Nan-ping, and Matao — Hotel at Chan-chow-wan — Poor accommodation — Moderate charges — Appearance of the country — Crops and cultivation — Moimtains in the distance — Walls and ramparts of Peking — Foreign embassies — English Legation — Medical missions — Chinese observatory — Views from it — Tartar and Chinese cities Page 344 CHAPTER XXII. The streets of Peking — Imperial palaces — Lama mosque — Western side of the city — Portuguese cemetery — Marble tablets — Tombs of Catholic priests — Ricci and Verries — Visits to the Chinese city — Scenes at the gates — The cabs of Peking — Shops and merchandise — Vegetables and fruits — “Paternoster Row ” — Jade-stone and bronzes — Ancient porcelain — Temple of Agricul- ture — South side of Chinese city — Nursery gardens and plants — Country people — South-west side of Chinese city — Waste lands — Royal ladies expected — A September morning in Peking — Northern part of the Tartar city — The An-ting gate — Graves of English officers — The Lama temple — Chief features of Peking .. 357 CHAPTER XXIII. A journey to the mountains — Long trains of camels and donkeys — Pagoda at Pale-twang — Large cemetery — Curious fir-tree — Agricultural productions — Country people — Reach the foot of the hills — Temples of Pata-tshoo — Foreign writing on a wall — A noble oak-tree discovered — Ascend to the top of the mountains — Fine views — Visit from mandarins — Early morning view — Return to Peking — Descend the Pei-ho — Sail for Shanghae — Arrange and ship my collections — Arrive in Southampton .. 373 Index 389 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. View of Yokuhama, from the hills behind the town .. Frontispiece. PAGE 2. View of Castle Island, Cape Gotto 1 3. View of Fusi-yama — From a Japanese sketch 28 4. Street in Kanagawa. — The Tokaido or Imperial Highway To face p. 42 5. Packhorse, with grass shoes 44 6. Umbrella Pine ( Sciadopitys verticillata ) To face p. 47 7. Farm-houses near Yedo, with Iris on the Roofs . . To face p. 57 8. Plan of Central Portion of the City of Yedo . . . . To face p. 81 9. A Yedo Gentleman, with Servant carrying Sword, and Custom-house Officer with Fan 90 10. Japanese Heads, showing the mode of dressing the hair . . 119 11. Bridge Scene in Yedo. — From a native sketch .. To face p. 125 12. Bikuni, or Mendicant Nuns 138 13. Nursery Maids 143 14. Ino-Sima, “ Our Pilot’s Home” To face p. 161 15. Entrance to Kamino-Saki Harbour To face p. 165 16. Remarkable Beetle ( Damaster blaptoides ) 179 17. Girls meeting — an example of Japanese manners 218 18. Bronze Image 231 19. Sturdy Beggars. — From a Photograph 329 20. Street Musicians. — From a Photograph 330 21. White-barked Pine ( Pinus Bungeana ) To face p. 378 22. Map of Japan and part of China At the end. YEDO AND PEKING View of Castle Island, Cape Gotto CHAPTER I. First view of Japan — Curious islands — Papenberg — Massacre of Christians — Visit from the officials — Harbour of Nagasaki — Desima of old — Desima of the present day — Japanese factory — Town of Nagasaki — Tea-houses — Salamanders — Buddhist temples — Large camphor-trees — Tombs — Mimic processions — Dr. Siebold’s residence — Excursions — Epunga — Natural pro- ductions — Scenery — Trade of Nagasaki — Its capabilities as a Sanatarium. At daylight on the 12th of October, 1860, the swift little barque ‘ Marmora,’ in which I was a passenger from China, was rapidly approaching the coast of Japan — a country at the ends of the earth, and well named by its inhabitants “ the B 2 FIRST VIEW OF JAPAN. Chap. I. Kingdom of the Origin of the Sun.” When I came on deck in the morning the far-famed shores of Zipangu lay spread before my wondering eyes for the first time. Having heard and read so many stories of this strange land — of its stormy coasts, on which many a goodly vessel had been wrecked ; of its fearful earthquakes, which were said to have thrown up, in a single night, moun- tains many thousands of feet above the level of the sea ; of its luxuriant vegetation, full of strange and beautiful forms ; of its curious inhabitants ; and last, but not least, of its salamanders ! — I had long looked upon Japan much in the same light as the Romans regarded our own isles in the days of the ancient Britons. My first view of these shores, however, did a good deal towards dispelling this delusion. It was a lovely morning. The sun rose from be- hind the eastern mountains without a cloud to obscure his rays. The Gotto islands and Cape Gotto were passed to the north of us, and with a fair wind and smooth sea we were rapidly approach- ing the large island of Iviu-siu, on which the town of Nagasaki is situated. The land is hilly and mountainous, and in many instances it rises perpendicularly from the sea. These perpendi- cular rocky cliffs have a very curious appearance as one sails along. There are also a number of queer-looking detached little islands dotted about ; and one almost wonders how they got there, as they seem to have no connexion with any other Chap. I. PAPENBERG. O O land near them. Some of them are crowned with a scraggy pine-tree or two, and look exactly like those bits of rockwork which are constantly met with in the gardens of China and Japan. No doubt these rocky islands have suggested the idea worked out in gardens, and they have been well imitated. Others of these rocks look in the dis- tance like ships under full sail, and in one instance I observed a pair of them exactly like fishing- junks, which are generally met with in pairs. Nearer the shore the islands are richly clothed with trees and brushwood, resembling those pretty “ Pulos” which are seen in the Eastern Archi- pelago. The highest hills on this part of the mainland of Kiu-siu are about 1500 feet above the level of the sea; but hills of every height, from 300 to 1500 feet, and of all forms, were ex- posed to our view as we approached the entrance to the harbour of Nagasaki. Many of these hills were terraced nearly to their summits, and at this season these terraces were green with the young crops of wheat and barley. The pretty little island of Papenberg stands as if it were a sentinel guarding the harbour of Nagasaki. Pretty it certainly is, and yet it is associated with scenes of persecution, cruelty, and bloodshed of the most horrible description. “ If history spoke true,” says Captain Sherard Osborn, “ deeds horrid enough for it to have been for ever blighted by God’s wrath have been perpetrated there during the persecutions of the Christians in . b 2 4 KOMAN CATHOLIC MARTYRS. Ciiap. I. the seventeenth century. It was the Golgotha of the many martyrs to the Roman Catholic faith. There, by day and by night, its steep cliffs had rung with the agonized shrieks of strong men, or the wail of women and children, launched to rest, after torture, in the deep waters around the island. If Jesuit records are to be believed, the fortitude and virtue exhibited by their Japanese converts in those sad hours of affliction have not been ex- celled in any part of the world since religion gave another plea to man to destroy his fellow-creature ; and may it not be that the beauty with which Nature now adorns that rock of sorrows is her halo of glory around a spot rendered holy by the suf- ferings, doubtless, of many that were brave and good ? ” As we passed the island we gazed with awe and pity on its perpendicular side, from which these Christians were cast headlong into the sea. As soon as our ship rounded Papenberg the harbour and town of Nagasaki came full into view. On each side of this entrance to the bay there are numerous batteries, apparently full of guns. On Papenberg itself, as well as on every little island and headland, fortifications were observed as we sailed along. There is also a flagstaff and tele- graph station on one of the hills ; and the moment a ship is seen approaching, a signal is made and passed on to Nagasaki. AVe were not molested by either guard-boat or customhouse officer, but allowed to sail quietly in to our anchorage. Here Chap. I. HARBOUR OF NAGASAKI. 5 we were boarded by sundry officials, who imme- diately began to put all sorts of questions regard- ing the ship, her cargo and passengers ; and the information obtained was all committed to paper. The commanding officer was then informed that two of these gentry would be left on board, and be was requested to give them shelter and accom- modation in the cabin. The harbour of Nagasaki is one of the most beautiful in the world. It is about a mile in width, and three or four in length. When you are' inside it appears to be completely land-locked, and has all the appearance of an inland lake. The hills around it are some 1500 feet in height, and their surface is divided and broken up by long- ridges and deep glens or valleys which extend far up towards’ the summits. These ridges and glens are for the most part richly wooded, while all the more fertile spots are terraced and under cultivation. The whole scene presents a quiet and charming picture of Nature’s handiwork inter- mingled with the labour of man. On the south side of the harbour there has been a portion of land set apart for the subjects of foreign nations whose Governments have lately made treaties with Japan. The various Consuls, most of whom are also merchants, reside at pre- sent in small houses or temples on the sides of the hill behind the settlement. It is an inter- esting sight to see the flags of several Western nations — English, French, American, and Por- 6 ISLAND OF DESIMA. Chap. I. tuguese — flying at this distance from home. A great portion of the land set apart for the foreign settlement was in the course of being reclaimed from the sea, and ere long a town of considerable size wall rise on the shores of this beautiful bay. The island of Desima — dear old Desima, wdiere the Dutch have traded and dreamed so long — lies a little further up the bay, and looks in the dis- tance like a small fort or breastwork in front of Nagasaki.* In these days, when Japan has to a great extent been opened to foreigners, it is amusing to read the account of the restrictions which were placed upon the movements of the Dutch during the period vdien all the trade of Japan was their own. The little island was only separated from Nagasaki by a narrow canal spanned by a stone bridge, but the dwellers on either side were prevented from seeing each other by means of a high wall. The bridge was closed by a gate, beside which was a guardhouse occupied by police and soldiers ; and no one was allowed to quit the island on any pretence without the per- mission of the Governor. Japanese were not allowed to visit the Dutch without permission, ex- cepting those who were appointed to inspect their dwelling-place, and then only at certain hours. The Japanese servants of the Factory were obliged to leave the island at sunset, and to report them- * It is about 600 feet in length, and 240 in width. Chap. I. ISLAND OF DESIMA. 7 selves at the guardhouse to prove that they had really left the Factory. The only individuals exempt from leaving the island at sunset were women who had forfeited the first claim of their sex to respect or esteem, and no female of good character was permitted on any pretence to set foot upon Desima. A placard set up near the bridge-gate announced this in the plainest and coarsest terms. When any member of the Factory wished to visit the town of Nagasaki, or the country in its vicinity, for a little recreation or amusement, he was obliged to send in a petition to the Governor twenty-four hours beforehand. Leave was usually granted, providing the captive was accompanied by a certain number of officials, police-officers, and a compradore. These again had their servants and friends, so that the attendants and hangers- on of one unfortunate pleasure-seeker usually amounted to some twenty or thirty persons, all of whom he was bound to entertain. On entering the town of Nagasaki the pleasure- party was soon surrounded and followed by all the boys and idlers within reach, who shouted “ Holancla ! Holanda l ” or “ Holanda Capitain ! ” in the Dutchman’s ears, and rendered his walk anything but an agreeable one. The excursion into the surrounding country must, however, have fully repaid the unfortunate captive for the dis- agreeables of the town . The scenery amongst the hills is of the most charming description, and 8 JAPANESE FACTORY. Chap. 1. must have been fully appreciated by men who were cooped up on a little mud-bank like the island of Desima. Such was the state of affairs only three or four years ago. At the time of my visit in the autumn of 1860 all this bad undergone a wonderful change — certainly wonderful for Japan. The old bridge which connects the island with the town of Naga- saki is still there, and presents a venerable and somewhat ruinous aspect ; the guardhouse is now empty, the gate has been removed, a part of the wall has been thrown down, and the Dutch are no longer the prisoners they once were. Like other foreigners, they can now visit the town when they choose, and roam about the surrounding country to any distance within twenty-five or thirty miles, without any interference from the Japanese. In my wanderings in Desima I stumbled upon a large rough piece of rock, on .which were carved the words “ Kaempfer ” and “ Tliunberg.” No other eulogy was necessary. It is pleasing to note that the modern Dutch reverence the names of these men of science who have done so much to make us acquainted with the people and natural productions of Japan. Opposite Desima, and on the other side of the bay, the Japanese have a large factory in active operation. The machinery has been imported from Europe, and the superintendents are Dutch. The Japanese workmen appear to be most expert hands at moulding and casting, and in the general Chap. I. TOWN OF NAGASAKI. 9 management of steam machinery. In this respect they are far in advance of their neighbours the Chinese. Indeed, to adopt everything foreign which they suppose to be useful, however different it may be from what they possess themselves, and to make themselves masters of the mode of work- ing it, is a marked feature in the character of the Japanese people. Nagasaki, or Nangasaki, as it is sometimes called, is situated on the northern shores of the bay, and is supposed to contain about 70,000 in- habitants. It is about a mile in length, and three- quarters of a mile in width, and fills up the space of ground between the shores of the bay and the hills which surround it. The streets are wide and clean, compared with those in Chinese towns; but as a general rule the shops are poor, and contain few articles of much value. Substances used as food, eggshell porcelain, lacquer ware of an inferior kind, and modern bronzes, are plentiful and comparatively cheap. Although the houses of the common people have a poor and mean appearance, there are some of considerable pre- tensions. Curiously enough, the largest and most notable buildings in the town, if we except the palace of the Governor, are what are called tea- houses — places of amusement, where the enter- tainments are not such as accord with our ideas of morality. They seem at the present day much in the same condition in which Kaempfer found them nearly two hundred years ago. 10 JAPANESE COURTESANS. Chap. I. “ The handsomest buildings,” says Koempfer, “ belonging to the townspeople, are two streets all occupied by courtesans. The girls in these establishments, which abound throughout Japan, are purchased of their parents when very young. The price varies in proportion to their beauty and the number of years agreed for, which is, generally speaking, ten or twenty, more or less. The } 7 are very commodiously lodged in handsome apartments, and great care is taken to teach them to dance, sing, play upon musical instruments, to write letters, and in all other respects to make them as agreeable as possible. The older ones instruct the young ones, and these in their turn serve the older ones as their waiting-maids. Those who make considerable improvement, and for their beauty and agreeable behaviour are oftener sent for, to the great advantage of their masters, are also better accommodated in clothes and lodging, all at the expense of their lovers, who must pay so much the dearer for their favours One of the sorriest must watch the house overnight, in a small room near the door, free to all comers upon the payment of one mase. Others are sen- tenced to keep the watch by way of punishment for their misbehaviour. “ After having served their time, if they are married, they pass among the common people for honest women, the guilt of their past lives being by no means laid to their charge, but to that of their parents or relations who sold them in their Chap. I. GARDENS OF THE PEOPLE. 11 infancy for so scandalous a way of getting a livelihood, before they were able to choose a more honest one. Besides, as they are generally well bred, that makes it less difficult for them to get husbands. The keepers of these houses, on the contrary, though possessed of never so plentiful estates, are for ever denied admittance into honest company.” The houses of the high officials, wealthy mer- chants, or retired gentlemen, though generally small, and only of one or two stories in height, are comfortable and cleanly dwelling-places. One marked feature of the people, both high and low, is a love for flowers. Almost every house which has any pretension to respectability has a flower- garden in the rear, oftentimes indeed small, but neatly arranged ; this adds greatly to the comfort and happiness of the family. As the lower parts of the Japanese houses and shops are open both before and behind, I had peeps of these pretty little gardens as I passed along the streets ; and wherever I observed one better than the rest I did not fail to pay it a visit. Everywhere the inhabitants received me most jtolitely, and per- mitted me to examine their pet flowers and dwarf trees. Many of these places are exceedingly small, some not much larger than a good-sized dining-room ; but the surface is rendered varied and pleasing by means of little mounds of turf, on which are planted dwarf trees kept clipped into fancy forms, and by miniature lakes, in which 12 GARDENS OF THE GENTRY. Chap. I. gold and silver fish and tortoises disport them- selves. It is quite refreshing to the eye to look out from the houses upon these gardens. The plants generally met with in them were the fol- lowing : — Cycas revoluta, Azaleas, the pretty little dwarf variegated bamboo introduced by me into England from China, Pines, Junipers, Taxus, Po- docarpus, Rliapis flabellifomiis , and some ferns. These gardens may be called the gardens of the resnectable working classes. Japanese gentlemen in Nagasaki, whose wealth enables them to follow out their favourite pur- suits more extensively, have another class of gardens. These, although small according to our ideas, are still considerably larger than those of the working classes ; many of them are about a quarter of an acre in extent. They are generally turfed over ; and, like the smaller ones, they are laid out with an undulating surface, some parts being formed into little mounds, while others are converted into lakes. In several of these places I met with azaleas of extraordinary size — much larger than I have ever seen in China, or in any other part of the world, the London exhibitions not excepted. One I measured was no less than 40 feet in circumference ! These plants are kept neatly nipped and clipped into a fine round form, perfectly flat upon the top, and look like dining- room tables. They must be gorgeous objects when in flower. Farfugium grande , and many other variegated plants still undescribed, were Ciiap. I. COLLECTION OF PLANTS. 13 met with in these gardens, in addition to those I have named as being favourites with the lower orders. One old gentleman to whom I was introduced by my friend Mr. Mackenzie — Mr. Matotski — has a nice collection of pot-plants arranged on stages, much in the same way as we arrange them in our greenhouses in England. Amongst them I noted small plants of the beautiful Sciadopitys verticillata, several Retinosporas , some with variegated leaves ; Thujopsis clolabrata, and variegated examples of laurel, bamboo, orontium, and Hoya Matotskii — a name given hv some Dutch botanist in honour of the old gentleman, and of which he was not a little proud. Mr. Matotski is a fine mild-looking Japanese, rather beyond the middle age. He has a collection of birds, such as gold and silver phea- sants ; and in his library are some illustrated botanical books, which he shows with great pride to his visitors. He presented me with a few rare plants from his collection, and offered to procure me some others, of which he had no duplicates in his own garden. In the course of my rambles I came upon some tubs containing living salamanders for sale, and in the same quarter I observed some striking and beautiful kinds of fowls. These were rather above the ordinary size, but were remarkable for their fine plumage. The tail-feathers were long and gracefully curved, and fine silky ones hung down on each side of the hinder part of the back. Bantams 14 TEMPLES AND GARDENS. Chai\ I. were also plentiful, and bold independent-looking little fellows they appeared to be. Three streams of water, spanned by numerous bridges, run down from the hills through the town ; but at the time of my visit they were nearly dry. Besides supplying the town with water, they are used in summer for purposes of irrigation, and for driving water-mills. A Chinese town of this size and importance would have had walls and fortifications, but there is nothing of the kind at Nagasaki ; indeed, such a mode of defence does not seem to be common in Japan. The streets have gates thrown across them at certain places, and these are always closed at night ; and, in the case of any disturbance, during the day, should occasion require it. Behind the town, on the hill-side, there are many large Buddhist temples and gardens. These are placed in the best situations ; the view over the town, the bay, and the distant hills is most charm- ing, and well repays the visitor for the toil of the ascent. Camphor-trees of a great size were common about these temples. They were apparently of great age, and were the finest examples of this tree that had come under my observation. The Pinus Chinense, or P. Massoniana, was also com- mon, and attains a great size. Higher up, the hill-sides were covered with many thousands of tombstones, marking the tombs of generations who have long since passed away. This large cemetery forms a prominent object in the landscape, and Chap. 1. MIMIC PROCESSIONS. 15 presents a striking and curious appearance to the stranger who looks upon it for the first time. One day, during my walks in Nagasaki, I had an opportunity of seeing some extraordinary proces- sions. The first one I saw consisted of a number of men dressed up as Chinamen, who were sup- porting a huge dragon, and making it wriggle about in an extraordinary manner. Another pro- cession consisted of little children, some so small that they could hardly walk, who were dressed in the Dutch military costume — cocked hats, tailed- coats with epaulets, dress swords, and everything in the first style, closely resembling Mynheer on gala-days, when the trade of Japan was all his own, and Desima — dear little prison — his abiding place. In this procession, Dutch fraus and frau- leins were duly represented, and truth compels me to say that they were never shown off to more advantage. The procession was accompanied by a band, dressed up also in an appropriate manner : they had European instruments, and played Euro- pean music. The day was fine ; thousands of people lined the streets, flags were hung from every window, and altogether the scene was most amusing. I followed the procession through the principal streets, and then up to a large temple situated on the hill-side above the town. Here the infantine troop was put through various military manoeu- vres, which were executed in a most creditable manner. I was amused at the gravity with which everything was done — each child looked as if it was 16 DII. SIE BOLD’S RESIDENCE. Ciiap. I. in sober earnest, and scarcely a smile played on one of the many little faces that were taking part in this mimic representation of the good Dutch- men. The exercises having been gone through, the band struck up a lively air, and the little actors marched away to their homes. On the side of a hill, a few miles out of Na- gasaki, and amongst the most beautiful scenery, lives the veteran naturalist, Dr. Yon Siebold. His house is some distance away from that of any other European; and his delight seems to be in his garden, his library, and the Japanese country people who are his friends. As I had determined to pay him a visit during my stay in Nagasaki, I chose a fine day, and set out in the direction of his residence after breakfast. My road led me through the heart of the town. The streets, as I have already remarked, were wide and clean, and contrasted most favourably with towns of equal size in China. The common neces- saries of life seemed to be abundant everywhere. Amongst fruits I observed the Diospyros Jcaki, pears, oranges, Salisburia nuts, cliesnuts, water melons, acorns, &c. The vegetables consisted of carrots, onions, nelumbium roots, turnips, lily- roots, ginger, Arum esculentum, yams, sweet pota- toes, and a root called “ gobbo,” apparently a species of Arctium. After passing through the town the road led me up a beautiful rice valley, terraced in all directions and watered abundantly by the streams Chap. I. DR. SIEBOLD’S RESIDENCE. 17 which flow from the mountains. On each side of the valley the hills are richly wooded, partially with trees and partially with brushwood. The trees I observed were Pinus Massoniana, Cryptomeria, Retinospora, camphor, oaks, camellias, &c. The view from one side, looking down upon and over the valley, and resting on the opposite hill, is rich indeed, and I almost envied Dr. Siebold his residence, which is situated on the left-hand side going up the valley. I found him at home, and he received me most kindly. His house is a good one for Japan, and his workshop or library, to which he introduced me, contains works of all countries on his favourite pursuits con- nected with natural history. But it was to the garden that my attention was more particularly drawn. On a level with the house and around it are small nurseries for the reception and propagation of new plants, and for preparing them for trans- portation to Europe. Here I noted examples of most of the plants figured and described in Dr. Siebold’s great work, the ‘ Flora Japonica,’ so well known to all lovers of oriental plants ; and several new things hitherto undescribed. A new Aucuba with white blotches on the leaves was striking ; there was also the male variety of the old A. japonica, numerous fine Conifers, such as Thujopsis clolabrata, Sciadopitys verticillata, Retinospora pisi- fera and R. obtusa , and many other objects of interest. Plants with variegated foliage were c 18 DR. S1EB0LD. Chap. 1. numerous, and many of them were very beautiful. Amongst the latter I may mention Thujas, Ele- agnus, Junipers, bamboos, Podocarpus, Camellias, Euryas, &c. On the hill-side above the house Dr. Siebokl is clearing away the brushwood in order to extend his collections and to obtain suitable situations for the different species to thrive in. For ex- ample, he will have elevation for such plants as require it, shade and dampness for others, and so on. Long may he live to delight himself and others with his enlightened pursuits ! Dr. Siebold speaks the Japanese language like a native, and appears to be a great favourite with the people around him, amongst whom he has great influence. “ Doctor,” said I to him on taking my leave, “ you appear to be quite a prince amongst the people in this part of Japan.” He smiled and said he liked the Japanese, and he believed the regard was mutual ; and with a slight cast of sarcasm in his countenance, con- tinued : “ It is not necessary for me to carry a revolver in my belt, like the good people in Desima and Nagasaki.” During my stay in Nagasaki at this time I was greatly indebted to Mr. Evans, of the well-known house of Messrs. Dent and Co., of China. Mr. Webb, the head of that house in Shanghae, kindly furnished me with letters of introduction and credit ; so that even “ at the ends of the earth ” I found myself quite at home. Mr. Evans intro- Chap. I. EPUNGA. 19 duced me to a number of native gentlemen whose gardens were rich in the botanical productions of Japan ; and I am glad to take this opportunity of stating, that to him and to Mr. Mackenzie I am indebted for many important additions to my collections. Everywhere we were received with the most marked politeness by the Japanese — a politeness which I am vain enough to think we did not abuse in the slightest degree. I have already stated that according to treaty foreigners are now allowed to visit the country in the vicinity of the ports that have been opened to trade. The distance allowed is ten ri, or from twenty-five to thirty miles. I was not slow to avail myself of this liberty in order to examine the natural products and agriculture of the country. Day by day excursions were made, either on foot or on horseback. One of these was to a place called Epunga, a kind of picnic station amongst the hills, about four or five miles from the town. The summer agricultural productions of the country through which I passed were much like those in the province of Chekiang in China — that is, rice and Arum esculentum on the low lands, and sweet potatoes, buckwheat ( Polygonum tataricum), maize, &c., on the dry hilly soil. In winter, wheat, barley, and rape are produced on the dry lands, and the rice-lands are generally allowed to lie fallow. On the hill-sides I observed the Japan wax- tree {Rhus succeclaneum) cultivated extensively. c 2 20 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. Chap. I. It occupies the same position on these hills as the Chinese tallow-tree (Stilling ia sebifera ) does in Chekiang. It grows to about the same size, and, curiously enough, it produces the same effect upon the autumnal landscape by its leaves chang- ing from green into a deep blood-red colour as they ripen before falling off. Some camphor-trees ( Laums camphora ) of enormous size were observed about the temples on the outskirts of Nagasaki, and Cryptomeria japonica was a very common tree on all the hill-sides. The latter is often used as a fence round gardens, and a very pretty one it makes. When I first saw it used for this purpose, it struck me that something of the same kind might be done with it at home, now that it is so common in every nursery. The Japanese man- age it much in the same way as we do our yew hedges ; and when kept regularly clipped it is not only exceedingly pretty, but it also is so dense that nothing can get through it. The tea-plant is also common on these hill-sides, but the great tea country of Japan is 200 or 300 miles further to the northward, near the famous Miaco, where the Sj3iritual Emperor resides. At this season the tea was just coming into flower, so that I was enabled to procure speci- mens for the herbarium. It is no doubt identical with the China plant, and may have been intro- duced from China ; although, as the productions ol the two countries are very similar in character, it may be indigenous. In its mode of growth and Chap. I. EPUNGA. 21 habits it resembles the plant in cultivation about Canton, commonly called Thca bohea. Epunga, to which I was bound while making these observations, was reached in due course. I found the proprietor had a nice little private garden, and also a nursery in which he propa- gated and cultivated plants for sale. On the premises there was a building, apparently for the use of foreigners, which was only opened when any foreigner came out from Nagasaki for a day’s pleasure. Like many other places of the kind, its walls were defaced with the writing of the great men who had visited it, and who took this means of immortalising themselves. Doggrel lines, some of them scarcely fit to meet the eye, were ob- served in many places written in Dutch, German, or Itussian. Our own countrymen had not been there long enough to visit the place and leave their marks ; doubtless these will be found also in good time. The nursery garden at Epunga was found to contain a large collection of Japanese plants — some of which were new to me — and others of great rarity and interest. Several species were purchased for my collection, and duly brought in to the town the next day. Having finished my examination of the nursery, I started, in company with some other gentlemen, on an expedition to the top of a hill some 1500 feet above the level of the sea, and celebrated for the fine and extensive view to be obtained from 22 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. Chap. I. its summit. It was a glorious autumnal day, such a day as one rarely sees in our own changeable climate. The sky was cloudless, so that when we reached the top our view on all sides was bounded only by the horizon. Looking to the south-east, far below us we saw the town of Nagasaki, with the beautiful bay in its front. On its smooth waters were the ships of several nations at anchor, besides a number of boats and junks of native build, and rather picturesque in their way. Turn- ing round and looking to the north-west, the eye rested on many hundreds of little hills having a conical form, and covered to their summits with trees and brushwood. Behind them were moun- tains, apparently 2000 or 3000 feet in height, and a deep bay looking like an inland sea. Amongst the hills there were many beautiful and fertile valleys, now yellow with the ripening rice crops ; and numerous villages and farmhouses gave life to the scene, which was one of extraordinary beauty and interest. On our way home we visited a little garden belonging to an interpreter to the Japanese Government. Here again I noticed some azaleas remarkable for their great size, and an extra- ordinary specimen of a dwarfed tir-tree. Its lower branches were trained horizontally some twenty feet in length ; all the leaves and branch- lets were tied down and clipped, so that the whole was as flat as a board. The upper branches were trained to form circles one above another like so Chap. I. TRADE OF NAGASAKI.. 23 many little tables, and the whole plant had a most curious appearance. A man was at work upon it at the time, and I believe it keeps him constantly- employed every day throughout the year ! Since the opening of the port of Nagasaki to other nations besides the Chinese and Dutch, its trade has been greatly enlarged. The harbour is now gay with the ships of all nations, and a brisk trade has sprung up between Japan and China — a trade which the quiet old Dutchmen never seemed to have dreamed of. Large quantities of seaweed, salt fish, and sundry other articles are exported to China ; while the Chinese import medicine of various kinds, Sapan wood, and many other kinds of dyes. The exports to Europe are chiefly tea, vegetable wax (the produce of the Rhus already noticed), and copper, which is found in large quantities in the Japanese islands. At present there is little demand for our English manufactures, but that may spring up in time. Although Nagasaki may never become a place of very great importance as regards trade, it will no doubt prove one of the most healthy stations in the East ; and may one day become most valuable as a sanatarium for our troops in that quarter of the globe. 24 VAN PIEMAN’S STRAIT. Chap. II. CHAPTER II. We leave Nagasaki — Van Pieman’s Strait — Gale of wind — Vries’s Island — View of Fusi-yama — Bay of Yedo — Yokohama — Its value as a port for trade — Foreign houses — Native town — Shops — Bronzes, ivory carvings, and curiosities — Lacquer ware — Porcelain — Rock-crystal balls — Toys — Books and maps — Mena- gerie — The Gan-ke-ro — Surrounding country — Its geological formation. Leaving Nagasaki and its beautiful scenery at daylight on the 19th of October, we proceeded on our voyage to the port of Kanagawa, near Yedo, the capital of Japan, and distant from Nagasaki about 700 miles. 'When outside the harbour of Nagasaki the mariner has two courses open to him : he may either go northward, and pass through the inland sea which divides the islands of Nipon and Kiu-siu, or he may take a southerly course and go through Yan Dieman’s Strait, and thus out into the waters of the Pacific Ocean. Sailing vessels generally choose the latter, as being the safer and more expeditious way of reaching their destination, and this was the * Mar- mora’s’ course in the present instance. Luckily we had a fair wind all the way from Nagasaki until we got through the strait. Near the entrance to the strait there are some small islands known to Chap. II. SULPHUR ISLAND. 2. r ) mariners as the “ Retribution Rocks.” They are only a few feet above the water, and are rather dangerous neighbours in a dark night, or during those heavy gales for which this coast is so unfa- vourably known. On our left we observed the mainland of Kiu-siu, stretching far away to the eastward, and ending in a Cape named “ Cape Chichakoff.” A. high conical-shaped mountain named “ Horner Peak,” 2345 feet in height, and not unlike F usi-yama in miniature, was also passed on our left. It forms an excellent landmark to the navigator of these seas. Between “ Horner Peak ” and the Cape there is a deep bay jutting inland for 30 or 40 miles, and having at its head an important city named Kagosima, where the Prince of Satsuma has his head-quarters. On the south side of the strait we observed several large islands, one of which is named Iwo-sima, or Sul- phur Island. This is an active volcano, and smoke and flames are continually rising, not from its sum- mit in the usual way, but from many parts of its sides. The whole mountain seems on fire, and has a very curious apj)earance when seen during the night. The coast of Japan is remarkable for the sud- denness with which gales of wind come on, and we were now destined to have our turn. It was a beautiful evening when we were nearly abreast of Cape Chichakoff ; we had a light fair wind, and our little bark was gliding along at the rate of six or seven miles an hour. We were congratu- 20 GALE OF WIND. Chap. II. lating ourselves on our great good luck, and just coming to the conclusion that all we had heard and read of the gales on this coast were so many “ travellers’ stories hut we were soon compelled to come to a different conclusion. Towards dark the sky began to wear a lowering appearance in the north-east, and in less than half an hour we were in the midst of a gale of wind. Sail after sail was taken in, and at last it was deemed advis- able to lie to until some change in the weather should take place. The sea also rose with great rapidity, and, except in a typhoon in China, I never recollect such a gale and such a sea. Our little bark behaved admirably, rising and falling with the sea, and shipping comparatively little water. For two days it was necessary for us to remain in this uncomfortable position ; and when the gale moderated, and we were able to get a little sail upon the vessel, the winds were foul, and carried us considerably to the southward of our course. But it cannot always blow a gale, even in Japan ; so, whether the winds were tired of persecuting us, or whether it was owing to the influence of sundry old shoes which were thrown overboard, 1 cannot say, but the gale ceased, and a fair wind sprang up from the westward. On the evening of the 28tli we were abreast of Cape Idsu — that Cape of Storms where it is said to blow always. Our expe- rience, however, was rather different ; for we seemed to run into a dead calm, with a heavy tumbling sea. Chap. If. MOUNT FUSI. 27 At daybreak on the 29th we were opposite a group of islands situated not very far from the entrance to the Bay of Yedo. One of them — Vries’s Island — rises to the height of 2530 feet above the sea, and has an active volcano on its summit. The smoke, which continuously rises from this mountain, forms an excellent landmark for mariners approaching this part of the coast. As we sailed past we observed that on the sides of the mountain, and particularly down near the shore, there were numerous villages and small towns. There were apparently some fertile valleys and hill-sides at a low elevation, but near the summit all appeared barren, while huge volumes of smoke were seen following each other at short intervals. On our left, on that same morning, was spread out to our admiring gaze the fair land of Nipon ; and very beautiful it was to look upon. The land was hilly and mountainous as in China ; but there appeared, some fifty or sixty miles inland, Mount Fusi, or Fusi-yama, the “ Matchless,” or Holy Mountain of the Japanese. Its northern slopes were covered with snow, but on its southern sides green streaks of verdure were visible. This moun- tain is the highest in Japan. It was formerly supposed to be only 10,000 or 12,000 feet above the level of the sea, but later observations made by Mr. A'lcock’s party in 1860 give it a height of 14,177 feet. In the evening we passed Cape Sagami at the entrance of the Bay of Yedo, and at daybreak next morning we were well up the bay, and only a short distance from the \ okulrama anchorage. On our right, in the direction of Yedo, we ob- served a cloud of boats under sail, composed chiefly of fishing-boats which supply the markets of the capital and the surrounding towns with fish. During our voyage from Nagasaki I had observed BAY OF YEDO. Chap. If. View ot Fusi-yama.— From a Japanese sketch. Chap. II. YOKUIIAMA. 29 very few native vessels or fishing-boats, such as may be seen crowding the waters of the Chinese coast. In so far as sea-going vessels are con- cerned, I was quite prepared to see but few, as the Japanese are not a maritime nation, and do not send ships to foreign countries; but I fully ex- pected to see fleets of fishing-boats along the shore, and their absence leads me to doubt whether the Japanese islands are as populous as they are gene- rally supposed to be. We anchored abreast of the town of Yokuhama at eight o’clock on the morning of the 30th of October. This is one of the ports opened by treaty to foreigners, and it is the one nearest to the capital. It was "here that in March, 1854, Com- modore Perry, of the United States Navy, con- cluded his treaty with the Japanese. At one of the interviews presents were delivered from the American Government. These consisted of Ame- rican cloths, agricultural implements, firearms, and a beautiful locomotive, tender, and passenger car, one-fourth of the ordinary size. The latter was put in motion on a circular track, and went at the rate of twenty miles an hour. The Japanese, we are told, were more interested in this than in any- thing else ; but, Chinese-like, concealed all expres- sions of wonder or astonishment. The town of Kanagawa, on the opposite or northern side of the bay, is the place named as the port in the treaty, but it was found unsuitable owing to the shallowness of the water all along 30 YOKUHAMA. Chap. II. that part of the shore. For a long time the ministers and consuls of the Treaty powers en- deavoured to induce their respective merchants to abstain from renting land or building on the Yoku- hama side of the hay. Curiously enough, however, the Japanese Government took a different view of the matter, and encouraged the merchants to come to Yokuhama by building for them dwelling- houses, and commodious piers and landing-places. Both places had their advantages and disadvan- tages. The argument of the consuls in favour of ad- hering to Kanagawa was that it was on the great highway of Japan ; and that, as Japanese from all parts of the empire were daily passing through it, our merchandise would, through them, he carried to all parts of the country, and would in this manner be quickly known and appreciated. It was also hinted that the Government intended to hem foreigners in at Yokuhama by means of a broad and deep canal ; that this in fact was to be another Desima ; and that we were to he made prisoners and treated in all respects as the Dutch were in the olden time at Nagasaki. The advantage of Kanagawa being on the great highway of Japan w T as fully admitted by the mer- chants, but they believed that if they located them- selves there the Government would lead the main road round by some other way, and would take measures to have them and their Japanese cus- tomers as much under control as at Yokuhama. As to the latter place being made a second Desima, Chap. II. YOKUHAMA. 31 they argued that the time had gone by when such things were possible. Besides, if Kanagawa was chosen, the ships would have to lie a long way from the shore, where they would oftentimes be unapproachable owing to the state of the weather, which is very uncertain on this coast. Altogether Yokuhama was the most suitable place for the transaction of their business, and it was business which had brought them to Japan. "While this discussion was going on, the Japanese Government, for reasons of its own, was affording every facility to those who wished to settle at Yokuhama ; and notwithstanding the opposition of the ministers and consuls of the Treaty powers, the merchants carried their point. Unhappily all this was the cause of much wrangling and ill feeling, which it will take some time to remove. When the American squadron first visited Yoku- hama in 1854, it was but a small fishing village, containing probably not more than 1000 inhabit- ants. Now the population amounts to 18,000 or 20,000, and a large town covers a space which was formerly occupied by rice-fields and vegetable gardens. The town is built on the flat land which extends along the shores of the bay, and is backed by a kind of semicircle of low richly-wooded hills. It is about a mile long, and a quarter to half a mile in width ; but it is increasing rapidly every day, and no doubt the whole of the swamp which lies between it and the hills will soon be covered with buildings. 32 YOKUHAMA. Chap. II. A large customhouse has been erected near the centre of the town, the foreign allotments being on the east side of it, and the native town chiefly on the west, so that foreigners and natives are kept each by themselves. A broad and deep canal has been dug round the town, and is connected with the bay at each end. It will be seen, therefore, that with the sea in front, and this canal carried round behind, the place can easily be completely isolated. Guardhouses are placed at the points of egress, and no one can go out or come in without the knowledge of the guards, and consequently of the Government. As I have already hinted, the Japanese have been much abused for this arrange- ment ; but it is possible, indeed I think it highly probable, that it has been intended more for our protection than for anything else. The new houses of the foreign merchants are generally one-storied bungalows, built almost en- tirely of wood and plaster. The joints of the timbers are tied together, or fastened in a way to allow the entire structure to rock or move to and fro during those earthquakes which are so common arid sometimes so destructive in this part of the world. Godowns for the storing of merchandise are generally erected near the house of the mer- chant ; and in many instances there is also a fire- proof building on the premises, used for the pro- tection of specie and the more valuable portion of the merchant’s property. This is of the first import- ance in a country like Japan, where the buildings Chap. II. NATIVE PRODUCTIONS. 33 are so combustible in their nature, and where fires are almost of daily occurrence in all the large towns. The native town is remarkable for one fine wide street which runs down its centre. Here are ex- posed for sale the various productions of the country in very large quantities. Bronzes, carv- ings in ivory, lacquer-ware, and porcelain, are all duly represented. The bronzes are mostly modern, of ugly shapes, and are chiefly remarkable for the large quantity of metal they contain, which one would think might have been applied to a more useful purpose. The small ivory carvings and metal buckles for fastening the dress are great curiosities in their way. They are usually small, and represent men, women, monkeys, and all sorts of animals and plants. They exhibit the skill of the carver in a very favourable light, and are cer- tainly wonderful examples of patience and in- dustry. Some collections of these articles were shown in the late International Exhibition in London, and were much admired. A writer in the ‘ Times’ describes them in the following terms : — “ The designs in some of these [the metal buckles] are irresistibly grotesque, and at once recall to mind the little black woodcuts with which Mr. Leech began his connexion with ‘ Punch.’ Pro- bably every object in this collection is by a dif- ferent artist ; yet, though in some the designs are so minute as to require a magnifying glass to see them well, all are treated with the same broad humour, so that it is almost impossible to avoid I) 34 METAL BUCKLES. Chap. II. downright laughter as you examine them. There is one figure of a man timidly venturing to coax a snarling dog, which is inimitable in its funny ex- pression ; and so also is the expression on another’s face who is frightened by a ghost. And all these works, the reader must remember, are not mere sketches, but are solid little pieces of metal-work, the background being of bronze, and the raised figures in relief being either gold, silver, steel, or platinum, or, as in most cases, of all four metals intermixed. It is evident, from the platinum being so freely used here, that the metal must be much more common with the Japanese than with us ; and that the secret of melting it, to which our chemical knowledge has only just attained, has long been known to them. ... In the side of the case where the metal buckles are shown we find in a collection of ivory carvings fresh proofs of the art, skill, and comic genius of the people. Let any one examine the litter of puppies sprawling over each other, the grotesque look of pain on the face of the woman who has been startled by a fox, and tumbled forward with her fiugers under the edge of a basin ; the triumphant aspect of the com- panion figure, who has succeeded in clapping his basin down on the fox ; yet, notwithstanding their wonderful finish, all these figures are so small that they might be worn as brooches.” The modern lacquer-ware is good, but not to be compared to the fine old Miaco ware, which is extremely beautiful. There are a number of shops Chap. II. LACQUER-WARE — PORCELAIN. 35 where this can he procured ; but the prices asked, and obtained, are very high. The fine polish of the old lac is unrivalled, and the specimens are often- times covered with figures of gold. This ware is met with in the form of writing-boxes and boxes for holding papers, trays, cabinets, screens, &c. The finest pieces are often very small, and, although not of much use, are sufficient to show the high state of the art at the time when they were made. I saw few examples of ancient porcelain, although we know that some fine pieces have found their way to Europe from Japan. The porcelain-shops are full of modern ware, chiefly remarkable for the fine eggshell cups ; and I found one or two examples of good colouring. Generally I did not admire it, and considered it not equal to that now made in China, and far inferior to the ancient porcelain of that country. I observed some cups and basins, with paintings of English ladies not badly executed. This shows how quick and imi- tative the Japanese are as a people, and how different they are from the slow-going Chinese. In some of the shops I observed some large crystal-looking balls said to be of rock crystal. These were finely polished and clear — not a flaw of any kind could be detected in their structure — and were highly prized owing to their great size and beauty. All sorts of toys were abundant, and some of them were most ingenious and pretty. There were glass balls, with numerous little tortoises in- d 2 36 TOYS — MAPS. Chap. II. side them, whose heads, tails, and feet were in constant motion ; humming-tops, with a number of trays inside, which all came out and spun round on the table when the top was set in motion ; and a number of funny things in boxes like little bits of wood shavings, which perform the most curious antics when thrown into a basin containing water. Dolls of the most fascinating kind, with large, shaved, bobbing heads, crying out most lustily when pressed upon the stomach, were also met with in cartloads. One little article, so small one could scarcely see it, when put upon hot charcoal, gradually seemed to acquire life and animation, and moved about for all the world like a brilliant caterpillar. This large trade in toys shows us how fond the Japanese are of their children. In one of the main streets there is a shop with an extensive collection of books, maps, charts, plain and coloured, for sale. A good map of the city of Yedo may be had here ; but the inquirer for such a thing is invariably taken into a back room, when he is told that if the authorities knew of such a thing being sold the vendor would get his head taken off. To those who are ignorant of the language, a peculiar motion of the hand about the region of the neck explains the shopkeeper’s meaning. This is a good stroke of policy, as it enables the seller to obtain a higher price for the map, and sends the lucky purchaser off highly delighted with his bargain. In the same shop 1 met with some really good illustrated books, con- ClIAl’. II. DRAWINGS — MENAGERIE. 37 taining views of the country and people about Miaco and Yedo, the two most famous cities in Japan. The former is the residence of the Mitcado or Spiritual Emperor, and the latter that of the Ziogoon or Tycoon. In the art of drawing or sketching, the Japanese are far inferior to our- selves, but they are greatly in advance of the Chinese. Although foreigners have been only a short time residing in Yokuhama, their appearance, customs, and manners are faithfully represented by the Japanese artists. Here are to be found pictures of men and women — rather caricatures it must be confessed — engaged in amusements pecu- liar to highly civilized nations. Ladies riding on horseback, or walking — duly encompassed with a wonderful amount of crinoline — are fairly repre- sented. Scenes in the Gan-ke-ro — a place got up by the Government for the amusement of foreigners — are also portrayed in a manner not particularly flattering to our habits and customs. Boisterous mirth, indulgence in wine and strong drinks, and the effects thereof upon those who are inclined to be quarrelsome, are all carefully depicted. Alto- gether, some very curious and instructive works of Japanese art may be picked up in shops of this description. Opposite to the bookshop just noticed there is a menagerie containing a variety of animals for sale. In this place I remarked some extraordinary- looking monkeys, which appear to be a source of great attraction and amusement to the natives. 38 THE GAN-KE-RO. Chap. II. Little dogs were plentiful, and particularly noisy when a foreigner approached them. Then there were examples of deer, the eagle of the country, and singing birds of various kinds in cages. But the different varieties of fowls struck me more than anything else. The kind which I had already seen at Nagasaki was here also, and in addition a pure white bird with a fine long arched tail and long silky feathers hanging down from each side of the back. This is a very beautiful bird, and well worth being introduced into Europe if it is not already here. The Gan-ke-ro, to which I have already alluded, is a large building at the back of the town, erected by the Government for the amusement of foreigners. Here, dinners, suppers, and plays, can always be “ got up on the shortest notice.” In other re- spects this and the buildings in the surrounding neighbourhood are much like the tea-houses in the town of Nagasaki. Scenes of debauchery and drunkenness are common, and even murder is not infrequent. Over such matters one would will- ingly draw a veil : but truth must be told in order to correct the inqiression which some persons have of Japan — namely, that it is a very Garden of Eden, and its inhabitants as virtuous as Adam and Eve before the fall. The country in the vicinity ofYokuhama is very beautiful in its general features. It is evidently of volcanic origin. It consists of low hills and small valleys : the former having their sloping Chap. II. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. 39 sides covered with trees and brushwood, and their summits, which form a kind of table-land, all under cultivation. The valleys are very fertile, and, having a good supply of water, are generally used for the cultivation of rice. The geological structure of this part of Japan is well worthy of notice. In my walks in the country I came upon a little hill with perpendicular sides, thus forming a convenient object for observation. The following is its formation in layers : — 1st layer. — Vegetable soil : black, resembling peat. 2nd „ Shells 2 to 3 feet in thickness. Oysters and other sea shells. 3rd „ Gravel. 4th „ Light-coloured clay, with pumice-stone and shells. 5th „ Blueish-coloured clay, with pumice-stone and shells. The Yokuhama cliffs are from 60 to 100 feet in height, nearly perpendicular, and their structure is as follows : — 1st layer. — Black peaty -looking soil, evidently containing much vegetable matter. 2nd „ Red earth much mixed with gravel. 3rd „ Gravel. 4th „ Hard clay. This is intersected here and there with a layer of gravel, and sometimes with a layer of shells, principally oysters. The shells are seen sticking on the sur- face of this layer in all directions. Charred wood and pumice- stone are also met with in the clay. Springs of excellent water are abundant on all the hill-sides. Some of them are deliciously cool even in the hottest days of summer, and afford a refreshing draught to the weary traveller. 40 KANAGAWA. Chap. III. CHAPTER III. Town of Kanagawa — The Imperial highway — Travellers upon it — Princes — Pack-horses — Mendicant priests — Blind men — Beggars, &c. — Visit to the temple of Bokengee — The umbrella pine-tree — Sintoo temples — Scenery — Thatched roofs — Valuable elm — The farmer and his chrysanthemums — Tomi — His one limit — Temple ofTo-rin-gee — Scenery by the way — Thujopsis dolabrata — Farm-houses — Tea-plant — Fruit-trees — Yedo vine — Veget- ables — Trees and shrubs of the district — The male aucuba- — Geological features. The port of Kanagawa, named in the treaty as the location of foreigners, is situated on the northern side of a deep bay or iidet ; Yokuliama being placed on its southern shore. The consuls of the different Treaty powers were living in temples on the Kanagawa side at the time of my arrival ; and as an old friend of mine, Mr. Jose Loureira, the manager for Messrs. Dent and Co., of China, who was also consul for Portugal and France, was residing there, he kindly offered me quarters in his temple during my stay. Nothing could have suited me better than this arrangement. There was plenty of room, both in the house and in the garden, for any collections of natural history which I might get together ; and I was on the highway to Yedo, and in the midst of a most fertile and interesting country. Chai>. III. KANAGAWA. 41 Kanagawa is a long narrow town stretching for several miles along the shore of the bay, and having one principal street, and that the Tokaido or great highway of Japan. The place is men- tioned in the books of the old Dutch travellers, and is said by them to contain about six hundred houses, and to be twenty-four miles from the capital. It is probably about this distance from the Nipon Bas , or bridge in Yedo, from which distances are measured to all parts of the empire ; but it is not more than sixteen or eighteen miles from the western end of the city of Yedo. It con- tains a great number of inns and tea-houses ; and here the Dutch generally slept on the last night of their journey overland from Nagasaki to Yedo. *On the following day they entered the capital. The shops are generally poor and mean, and contain few articles except the mere neces- saries of life. A little way back from the main street, at intervals all the way along the town, are Buddhist temples and cemeteries. These temples are often found in the most charming situations, and they are the finest and most substantial build- ings in Kanagawa. In some instances they are sur- rounded with pretty gardens, containing specimens of the favourite flowers of the country. It is in some of these temples that the consuls of the Treaty powers have been located. The good priests do not object to find quarters of an inferior kind both for themselves and for their gods, providing they are well paid for their trouble in turning out. 42 THE IMPERIAL HIGHWAY. Chap. III. The Tokaida, or great highway of the country, is thronged all day long with people going to or returning from the capital. Every now and then a long train of the servants and armed retainers of one of the Daimios — lords or princes of the em- pire — may be seen covering the road for miles. It is not unusual for a cortege of this kind to occupy two or three hours in passing by. Men run before and call upon the people to fall down upon their knees to do honour to the great man, nor do they call in vain. All the people on both sides of the way drop down instantly on their knees, and remain in this posture until the nori- mon or palanquin of the prince has passed by. A Daimios procession is made uj> in the following manner : — First comes the prince himself in his norimon, followed by his horse and retainers, aimed with swords, spears, and matchlocks ; then follow a number of coolies, each carrying two lacquered boxes slung across his shoulder on a bamboo pole. After these again there is an- other norimon, with an official of some kind ; then more coolies with boxes, more retainers, and so on. The number of the followers is often veiy large, and depends upon and is regulated by the wealth and rank of the Daimio. Koempfer informs us “ that it is the duty of the princes and lords of the empire, as also of the governors of imperial cities and crown lands, to go to court once a year to pay their homage and respect. They are attended, going and returning, STREET IN KANAGAWA. — THE TOKAIDO OR IMPERIAL HIGHWAY. Chap. 111. PROCESSIONS. 43 by their whole court, and travel with a pomp and magnificence, becoming as well their own quality and riches as the majesty of the powerful monarch whom they are going to see. The train of some of the most eminent fills up the road for some days.” If two or more of these Daimios should chance to be travelling the same road, at the same time, they would prove a great hindrance to one another, particularly if they should happen to meet at the same post-house or village. This is avoided by giving timely notice, and by engaging the inns and post-houses a month or six weeks beforehand. The time of their intended arrival is also notified in all the cities, villages, and hamlets, by putting up small boards on high poles of bamboo, signify- ing in a few characters what day of the month such and such a lord will be at that place to dine and sleep there. When the retinue of the great man has passed by, the stream of every-day life flows on along the great Tokaido as before. No carts are used on this part of the road. Everything is carried on pack-horses, and these are passing along the road in great numbers all day long. Each horse is loaded with a pile of boxes and packages — a for- midable size oftentimes, surmounted by a man in a large broad-brimmed straw hat, who, from his exalted position, is guiding the movements of his horse. Generally, however, when passing through towns, the horses are led by the drivers. In addi- ^ LOADED PACK-HORSE. Chap. III. tion to the huge pile of packages, it is not unusual for a little family, consisting of the mother and children, to be housed amongst them. On one occasion, as two foreigners of my acquaintance were out riding in the country, one of their horses shied, and, coming in contact with a loaded pack-horse, its burden came tumbling off, and was scattered over the road. On stopping to render the driver some assistance in reloading his horse, my friends were horrified to find a whole family scrambling about amongst the packages, amongst which they had been snugly stowed away. Packliorse, with grass shoes. Besides the processions, pack-horses, and palan- quins, the pedestrians on the Tokaido demand our Chap. III. PEDESTRIANS ON THE TOKAIDO. 45 attention. Some are crowned with queer-looking broad-brimmed straw hats ; others have napkins tied round their heads, and their hats slung behind their backs, only to be used "when it rains or when the sun’s rays are disagreeably powerful ; while others again have the head bare and shaven in front, with the little pigtail brought forward and tied down upon the crown. Mendicant priests are met with, chanting prayers at every door, jingling some rings on the top of a tall staff, and begging for alms for the support of themselves and their temples. These are most independent-looking fel- lows, and seem to think themselves conferring a favour rather than receiving one. I observed that they were rarely refused alms by the people, although the same priests came round almost daily. To me the prayer seemed to be always the same — namely, nam-nam-nam ; sometimes sung in a low key, and sometimes in a high one. When the little copper cash — the coin of the country — was thrown into the tray of the priest, he gave one more prayer, apparently for the charity he had received, jingled his rings, and then went on to the next door. Blind men are also common, who give notice of their approach by making a peculiar sound upon a reed. These men generally get their living by shampooing their more fortunate brethren who can see. Every now and then a group of sturdy beggars, each having an old straw mat thrown across his shoulders, come into the stream which flows along this great highway. 46 INQUIRY FOR TEMPLES. Chap. III. Then there is the flower-dealer, with his basket of pretty flowers, endeavouring to entice the ladies to purchase them for the decoration of their hair ; or with his branches of “ skimmi ” ( Illicium ani- satum ), and other evergreens, which are largely used to ornament the tombs of the dead. All day long, and during a great part of the night too, this continual living stream flows to and from the great capital of Japan along the imperial highway. It forms a panorama of no common kind, and is certainly one of the great sights of the empire. The blind travellers, of whom there are a great number, are said to prefer travelling by night when the road is less crowded, as the light of day makes no difference to them. Having settled down for a time in Kanagawa, I now made daily excursions to different parts of the surrounding country. I was fortunate in making the acquaintance of the Rev. S. W. Brown, a mis- sionary connected with the Dutch Reformed Church, United States, and of Dr. Hepburn, a medical mis- sionary, formerly of Amoy, in China. They were living in some temples a short distance from where I was lodging; and as they had been some time in Japan, they were able to give me much valuable information. My first question was, whether there were any large Buddhist temples in this part of Japan, similar to those I had been in the habit of visiting in China. My reason for wishing to get information on this head was the fact that, wherever Buddhist temples Chap. III. THE UMBRELLA PINE. 47 and Buddhist priests are found, there the timber is preserved on the liill-sides ; and many of the rare trees of the country are sure to be met with adorn- ing some of the courts of their temples. Mr. Brown informed me that there was a large monastery a short distance up one of the valleys, and kindly consented to accompany me thither. Our road led us up a beautiful and fertile valley, having low wooded hills on each side, and a little stream of pure water running down towards the sea, water- ing and fertilizing the rice-fields on its way. It was now the beginning of November, and the crops were yellow and nearly ready for the reaping-hook of the husbandman. It was a glorious autumnal day, the sun was shining above our heads in a clear sky, the air was cool, and everything around us was most enjoyable. A walk of two or three miles brought us to the temple of Bokengee. A broad path led up the hill-side to the main entrance of the temple. Various ornamental trees, some of great size and beauty, stood near the gateway. Just inside and in front of one of the principal temples, I was delighted to meet with a beautiful new pine, called Sciadopitys verticillata, the umbrella pine, or “ Ko-ya maki ” — that is, “ the maki of Mount Ko-ya ” — of the Japanese. A branch of this fine tree is figured and described in Dr. Siebold’s ‘ Flora Japonica ; ’ but a great mistake is made as regards its size. Siebold states that it forms an evergreen tree, for the most part twelve to fifteen feet high. On the 48 TEMPLE OF BOKENGEE. Chap. III. contrary, the specimens met with in the vicinity of Kanagawa and Yedo were in many instances fully one hundred feet in height. However, as Siebold says that “he saw it cultivated in gardens,” he probably had no opportunity of seeing a full-grown specimen. It is a tree of great beauty and interest. It has broad leaves of a deep green colour, arranged in whorls, each somewhat like a parasol, and is quite unlike any other genus amongst conifers. In general outline it is of a conical form, not spread- ing, and the branches and leaves are so dense that the stem is completely hidden from the view. It is impossible to say, until we have further experience, whether this fine tree will prove hardy in our English climate ; but if it does so, it will he a very great acquisition to our list of ornamental pines. The principal hall or temple of Bokengee is not remarkable either for its size or for its idols. But the hill-side is covered with small detached build- ings, which appear to he not only residences but also seminaries for the Buddhist priesthood. These houses are situated in the midst of pretty gardens, each of which contains neat specimens, well culti- vated, of the ornamental flowers of the country, and is surrounded with hedges kept neatly clipped and trimmed. The whole place is kept in the highest order, the broad walks are daily swept, and not a weed or dead leaf is to be seen anywhere. At a higher elevation there are some large temples, which seem to he kept always closed. They are rather rough wooden buildings; hut like Chap. III. SCENERY. 49 all the other temples are beautifully thatched, and the ground and walks near them clean and in per- fect order. We did not observe any priests near these temples ; and they probably belong to the sect of Sintoos or Sinsyu , the original national religion of Japan, upon which Buddhism has been engrafted in some extraordinary manner. At the time of our visit to the monastery, the riests seemed all to be engaged in study or in prayer. Now and then the dull monotonous sound of some one of them engaged with his devotions fell upon our ears, but it soon ceased and all was still again. The sun was shining, and his rays streaming through the branches of the overhanging trees ; a solemn stillness seemed to reign around us, and the whole place and scene reminded one of a sabbath in the country at home. There are many pleasant and shaded walks in the woods about these temples. Taking one of the paths which led up the hill, we wandered to the summit and obtained some charming views. On one side we looked down on the roofs and gardens of the temples, and our eyes wandered from them over the valley to the richly- wooded hills beyond. Turning to the westward, the mountains of Hakone lay before us, with the beautiful Fusi-yama half- covered with snow, and looking like the queen of the mountain scenery. These were glorious views, and will long remain vividly impressed upon my memory. Before quitting the monastery of Bokengee, E 50 THATCHED ROOFS. • Chap. ITT. we examined minutely the manner in which the temples were built, and more particularly their thatched roofs. The walls were formed of a framework of wood nicely fitted and joined, but apparently not very massive in construction. This was rather extraordinary, owing* to the great thickness and weight of the framework of the roof. No doubt, however, the sides were strong enough to support the roof, heavy though it was. All the roofs of the temples were thatched with a reed common to the country, and never, in any other part of the world, have I seen such beautiful thatching. Indeed this is a subject of admiration with every foreigner who visits Japan. On care- fully examining the structure of one of these buildings, one soon sees the principles on which it is put up, and the reasons for its peculiar construc- tion. Buildings such as we erect in England would be very unsafe in a country like Japan, where earthquakes are so common and so violent. Hence the main part of a Japanese house is a sort of skeleton framework ; every beam is tied or fastened to its neighbour ; so that, when the earth is convulsed by these fearful commotions, the whole building may rock and sway together with- out tumbling down. In order to render these buildings more secure, it seems necessary to have the roof of great strength and weight, and this accounts for their heavy and massive structure. In the woods of this part of Japan there is a very fine elm-tree, called by the Japanese Keolci Chap. III. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 51 ( Ulmiis keaki of Siebold). This is often used in the formation of the strong- beams which support the roofs of these temples. The wood of this tree is extremely handsome ; and as all the framework is fully exposed to view, this is, of course, a matter of great importance. On our way home we visited many of the little farm-houses which are situated at short intervals on the lower sides of the hills ; each had its little garden attached to it. In one of these gardens we found a very fine collection of chrysanthemums. I was most anxious to secure some of them for my collections, but, thinking the farmer only cultivated them for his pleasure, I did not like to offer him money, nor did I care to beg. My scruples were soon set at rest by the owner hinting that I might have any of them I pleased by paying for them at a certain rate. I need scarcely say we soon came to terms, and in a very short space of time the little farmer, with his flowers on his back, was trudging behind us on our way to Kanagawa. This was my first purchase in Japan, and I lost no time in making the following note, namely, that the Japanese were very much like their Chinese friends over the water, and that no difficulty was so great that it coidd not be overcome bv a little liberality. My next object was to procure a native of this part of the country to assist me with my collec- tions, and more particularly to act as a guide. A man named Tomi was recommended to me as a e 2 52 TOMl’S GUIDANCE. Chap. III. person likely to suit my purpose. Tomi had been a kind of pedler, and had wandered up and down the country for many years. Everybody knew Tomi, and Tomi knew everybody. Latterly he had been in the service of some foreigners at Kanagawa, who gave him a high character for intelligence and activity. But it was rumoured that Tomi had, in common, 1 am sorry to say, with many of his countrymen, one serious fault, and that was, he was particularly fond of saki — the wine, or rather whisky, of Japan. It was added, however, that he rarely indulged until the evening, and that he was generally to he depended upon during the day. As his knowledge of the country was of great importance in my investigations, I thought he would perhaps suit me better than any one else, and so I engaged him. Tomi was now my daily guide all over the country, and I must do him the justice to say he performed his work to my entire satisfaction. In the mornings he looked rather red about the eyes, as if he had been indulging freely during the preceding night ; but he kept sober, for the most part, during the day. The weather was delightful ; day after day the sun was shining in a clear sky, the air was cool, and I could walk all day long with the greatest comfort. The seeds of the different trees and shrubs of the country were now ripening ; and my great object was to secure a supply of all the ornamental kinds for exportation to Europe. Chap. 111 . BAY OF YEDO. 53 More particularly I was desirous of procuring seeds of the Sciadopitys, already described, of the Thujopsis d.olabrata, and of the different pines, yews, and arborvitoe. One morning Tomi informed me he had found out a temple in the country where there were some fine trees of Thujopsis dolabrata. This was good news ; so we started off together to see the trees, and if possible to procure some seeds. Our road led us up a valley somewhat like that by which I had gone to Bokengee. The scenery was of the same beautiful character — fertile valleys and richly wooded hills, which even at this time of the year (November) had a green and summer- like appearance, owing to the number of ever- green trees and shrubs which are indigenous to the country. Sometimes our road gradually ascended, and carried us along the tops of the hills, which here form a kind of table-land, the whole of which is under cultivation. It is im- possible for me to describe the beautiful views that were continually presenting themselves as we passed along. Looking seaward, the smooth waters of the Bay of Yedo lay before us, dotted all over with the little white sails of fishing-boats, whose produce was to supply the market of that populous capital. Strange ships, of another build and rig, lay quietly at anchor abreast of Yoku- hama. Their tall masts and square yards pro- claimed them to belong to the nations of the far West. Looking inland, the view from the hill- 54 TEMPLE OF TO-RIN-GEE. Chap. III. tops was ever-changing but always interesting and beautiful. Rice valleys, farmhouses, and temples lay below us ; beyond them were low bills, then valleys again, and so on, until the eye rested on a sea of bills on the far-off horizon. A walk of a few miles brought us to a little temple nestled amongst some woods on a bill-side. The name of this temple was To-rin-gee. A small avenue of trees leads up from a rice valley to the temple, and ends at a flight of stone steps. On each side of the steps there is a grassy bank covered with bushes of azalea, aucuba, and other ornamental shrubs. Ascending the stone steps we found ourselves on a level with the temple, and in a pretty garden filled with flowers, and kept in the most perfect order. The temple of To-rin-gee is a small one, and has only one priest and priestess to minister at its altars. It is cleanly kept, the floors are covered with mats, and many of the walls are ornamented with pictures. Works of art are highly appreciated by these people ; and I afterwards, at their urgent request, presented them with some pictures from ‘ Punch ’ and the ‘ Illustrated London News,’ with which they were highly pleased. The priest and priestess received us most kindly, and, as they appeared to be well acquainted with Tomi, we soon found ourselves quite at home. The screens of the little verandah were drawn, and we were invited to seat ourselves on the clean mats that covered the floor. Some delicious tea, made, in Chinese Chap. III. THUJOPSIS DOLABRATA. fashion, without milk or sugar, was set before us, and proved very agreeable. While we sipped our tea I had time to make some observations on the surrounding scenery. A quiet and secluded rice valley formed the fore- ground to the picture ; hills were on each side of us and behind us, densely covered with trees of many different kinds. Pines, evergreen oaks, chesnuts, bamboos, and palms — the latter giving a somewhat tropical character to the scenery — were the most common species. On a hill-side to the right of where we sat I observed a grove of the beautiful Thujopsis dolabrata, which I had come to look for. A stillness, almost solemn, reigned amongst these woods and temples, broken at times only by the call of the cock pheasant, or the rich clear note of some songster of the woods. What a charming place for a hermit, or for some one tired of the busy scenes and oppressing cares of the world ! But I had not come here to meditate only ; and, therefore, setting down my teacup, I intimated to the good priest that I wished to pay a closer visit to the “ Asnero” the Japanese name for Thujopsis dolabrata. The old man kindly led the way. On arriving at the grove of these trees we found an old cemetery amongst them ; and they had, no doubt, been planted there, along with a number of Crypto- inerias , at the time the cemetery was first made. The “Asnero” is a beautiful tree, straight, symmetrical, attaining a height of 80 to 100 feet, 5(3 CULTIVATED VALLEYS. Chap. III. and having leaves of a fine dark-green colour. They are imbricated, or overlap each other on the stems, and look almost as if they had been plaited. Beneath they are of a silvery hue, which gives them a somewhat remarkable appearance when blown about by the wind. We could observe some bunches of seeds on some of the higher branches. These were not very easily reached ; but both Tomi and I being good climbers, we pulled off our shoes and mounted the trees, much to the astonish- ment of our good friend the priest, who stood quietly looking on at our proceedings. The afternoon was far advanced before we had completed our researches in the vicinity of To- rin-gee, and therefore, bidding adieu to the priest and priestess, we took our departure, choosing, on our homeward journey, a different road from that by which we came. As this road led us through a number of highly-cultivated valleys, I noted the state of the crops. The low rice-lands were now covered with that grain, yellow, and nearly ready for the sickle. On all the higher lands the young wheat and barley crops were now (Nov. lOtli) above-ground. The seed is not sown broadcast as with us, but in rows two feet three inches apart. It is dropped in the drills by the hand, in patches, each containing from twenty-five to thirty grains of seed, and about a foot from each other in the drill. The land is particularly clean, and the whole cultivation resembles more that of a garden than of a farm. Chap. III. FRUIT-TREES — YEDO VINE. 57 Every now and then we came to a farm-house. These are generally situated on the dry land at the lower sides of the hills, having the wooded hills behind them and the rice valleys in front. All had thatched roofs like the temples I have already noticed, although not built in such an expensive and substantial way. In almost every instance a species of iris, “ Sho-bu,” was growing thickly on the flattened ridge of the roof, thus giving it a rural and not unpleasing appearance. On the road-sides, and also in the little gardens of the farmers and cottagers, I frequently met with the tea-plant in cultivation. It was not cultivated largely in this part of the country, but, apparently, only in sufficient quantities to supply the wants of those around whose houses it was growing. Fruit- trees of various kinds were common also on the lower sides of these hills, and, generally, in the vicinity of the villages. Pears, plums, oranges, peaches, chesnuts, loquats, Salisburia nuts, and Diospyros kaki, are the most common fruit-trees of this district. The vine in this part of the country produces fruit of great excellence. The bunches are of a medium size, the berries of a brownish colour, thin- skinned, and the flavour is all that can be desired. This grape may he valued in England, where we have so many fine kinds, and most certainly will be highly prized in the United States of America. A few years ago I was travelling from Malta to Grand Cairo, in company with Mr. Bryant the 58 FOREST-TREES. Chap. III. celebrated American poet, and a genuine lover ot horticultural pursuits. This gentleman informed me that, owing to some cause, our European vines did not succeed very well on the other side of the Atlantic, and suggested the importance of in- troducing varieties from China, where the climate, as regards extremes of heat and cold, is much like that of the United States. I had never met with what I consider a really good variety of grape in China, and therefore have not been able to act on Mr. Bryant’s suggestion. At last, however, we had here a subject for the experiment ; and I urged its importance on Dr. Hall, of Yokuhama, who is an American citizen, and who has already intro- duced a number of plants into his country from China. He entered warmly into the matter, and no doubt will accomplish the object in view. The winter vegetables met with were carrots, onions of several kinds, “lobbo” (a kind of radish), “ gobbo ” {Arctium gobbo ), nelumbium roots, lily roots, turnips, ginger, Scirpus tuberosus , Arum esculentum, and yams. Many of the forest-trees of this district are identical with those found about Nagasaki, which I have already noticed. The largest snd most useful seem to be such as Pinus Massoniana, P. deusijlora , Abies Jirma, Retinospora pisifera, R. obtusa, and Cryptomeria japonica ; the latter attains a very great size, and seems peculiarly at home. I have already mentioned Thujopsis dolabrata and Sciadopitys verticillata. The maiden- Chap. III. SHRUBS. 59 hair tree (Salisburia adiantifolia ) is common about all the temples, and attains a great size. Here, as in China, the natives are very fond of its fruit, known in the Japanese shops by the name of “ Gingko ,” and in China as “ PaJc-o ” or white- fruit. Evergreen oaks, of several species, are com- mon in the woods over all this part of Japan. They attain a goodly size, and are most orna- mental trees. Chesnuts, of several kinds, are also common ; the leaves of one species ( Castania japo- nica ) are used to feed a kind of silkworm. Acers or maples are also common trees ; many of the lea ves of these are beautifully marked with various colours, and almost all of them take on deep colours as they ripen in the autumn, and produce a most beautiful and striking appearance upon the land- scape. But the elm already mentioned (Ulmus keaki) is perhaps the most valuable timber-tree in Japan. It was introduced into Europe, by Dr. Sie- bold, some years ago, but I have not heard whether or not it is suitable to our English climate. Amongst shrubs a species of Weigela was com- mon, which at first I supposed to be the W. japonica of Thunberg, but it now proves to be IF. grandi- flora. It is covered with flowers during the summer months, and is really very ornamental. Osmanthus aquifolius, covered with sweet-scented white flowers, was also met with. It belongs to Oleacece (the olive tribe), and is a fine ornamental evergreen bush. In the gardens there is a variety with variegated leaves, looking somewhat like the variegated holly. 60 THE MALE AUCUBA. Ciiap. III. This is a charming shrub, and if it proves hardy in our climate will be a g’reat favourite. A new species of Aucuba, not variegated like the one in English gardens, but having leaves of the deepest and most glossy green, was found common in the shady parts of the woods and hedges, and has now been introduced into England. Asa fine evergreen bush it will be greatly prized ; and, in addition to this, it produces a profusion of crimson berries nearly as large as olives, which hang on all the winter and spring, like the holly-berries of our own country. One of my objects in visiting Japan was to procure the male variety of the common Aucuba japonica of our gardens. This is perhaps the most hardy and useful exotic evergreen shrub we pos- sess. It lives uninjured through our coldest win- ters, and thrives better than anything else in the smoke of our large towns. Hence it is met with everywhere, and is one of the most common plants in the parks, squares, and houses of London ; hut no one in this country has ever seen it covered with a profusion of crimson berries, as it is met with in Japan. It belongs to a class of plants which have the male and female flowers produced on different individuals. Curiously enough, all the plants in Europe were females, and hence the ab- sence of fruiting specimens. On my arrival in Japan I lost no time in looking out for the male of this interesting species. I foimd it at last in the garden of Dr. Hall at Yokuhama, who has also a Chap. ITT. GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. 61 very interesting collection of the plants of Japan, and to whom I am indebted for much valuable in- formation and assistance. This plant was sent home in a Wardian case, and I am happy to say it reached England in good health, and is now in the nursery of Mr. Standish at Bagshot. I look for- ward with much interest to the effects of this intro- duction. Let my readers picture to themselves all the aucubas which decorate our windows and gardens, covered, during the winter and spring months, with a profusion of crimson berries. Such a result, and it is not an improbable one, would of itself be worth a journey all the way from England to Japan. The geological formation of this part of the country differs entirely from that about Nagasaki. The latter bears a striking resemblance to the hilly part of China in the same latitude ; that is, the upper sides of the hills are generally barren, with rocks of clay-slate and granite protruding in all directions. About Yedo we meet with quite a different forma- tion. (I have already described the substrata as exhibited by the sea-cliffs at Yokuhama.) The country inland consists of hill and valley ; and with the exception of the celebrated mountain named Fusi-yama, and some others in its vicinity, the hills are only a few hundred feet above the level of the sea. The soil in the valleys, in which rice is the staple summer crop, is of a blackish-brown colour, almost entirely composed of vegetable matter, and resembles what we meet with in a peat-bog in 62 GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. Chap. III. England. Like that land it springs beneath the feet when one walks over it. The sloping sides of the hills are covered with trees and brushwood, the latter oftentimes being apparently of little value. Passing upwards through the belt of trees and brushwood, we next reach the tops of the hills. These are all comparatively flat, and thus a kind of table-land is the result. The soil of this table-land is exactly similar to that found in the marshy valleys below, that is, it is a soil closely resembling what is found in peat-bogs. Scarcely a stone or rock of any kind is met with, either in the valleys, on the hill- sides, or on the table-land on the summits. A casual observer, on examining this black and apparently rich-looking soil, would think it very fertile, and capable of producing large crops ; but in reality it is not so fertile as it looks, and foreigners generally remark on the little flavour the vegetables have which are grown on it. How this peculiar formation was originally pro- duced I am unable to explain. Whether this part of Japan was at some early period a flat peat-moss, and these hills formed by one of those fearful earth- quakes for which the country is still famous, and which, according to tradition, forced up Fusi-yama in a single night to the height of more than 14,000 feet, I must leave to geologists to determine. Chap. IV. JOURNEY TO YE DO. 63 CHAPTEK IY. Journey from Kanagawa to Yedo — Native body-guard — The Tokaido — Civility of the people — Beggars by the wayside — Tea-houses • — Kawasaky — River Loga — “ Mansion of Plum-trees ” — The ladies’ platform — Hostess and waiting-maids — Japanese and Chinese ladies compared — Tea-gardens — Sinagawa — English Legation — Hospitality of Mr. Alcock — Large cemetery — Garden and trees — The Yakoneens. I gladly availed myself of an invitation from his Excellency Mr. Alcock to visit Yedo, and made preparations to start for that city on the 13 th of November. On these occasions the stranger is always accompanied by mounted Yakoneens, or Government officers, who are in fact the police of the country. Their rank, however, seems of a much higher grade than that of such persons in Europe, and they are treated with marked respect by all classes of the natives, who appear to stand greatly in awe of them. These officers are armed, each having two swords ; and they are supposed to guard the foreigner in case of attack or insult by the way. As we rode out of the courtyard of Mr. Loureira’s house, I could not help smiling at the queer-looking individuals who came on behind me. Each of them wore a round, broad-brimmed straw hat, and as the 64 THE TOKAIDO. Chap. IV. day was wet tliey had loose rain-cloaks over their dresses. Their two swords, which were fixed in their belts at an angle of forty-five degrees, made their dresses stick out behind ; and as we trotted or galloped along the road, they had a curious fly- away sort of appearance. As a general rule, they are hut indifferent horsemen. Our road — the Tokaido, or Imperial highway already mentioned — led us to the eastward, along the shores of the Bay of Yedo. Small shops, tea- houses, sheds for the accommodation of travellers, and gardens, lined each side of the way. Now and then we came to an open space with trees planted in the form of an avenue. These were chiefly of such species as Cryptomeria japonica , Pinus Massoniana , Celtis Orientalis, , and Ulmus keaki. The gli m pses which were obtained, from time to time, through these trees and across the gardens behind them, were very beautiful. On the left, at a little distance, the view was bounded by some low hills of irregular form, crowned with trees and brushwood ; while on the right the smooth waters of the Bay of Yedo were spread out before us, here and there studded with the white sails of fishing-boats. The people along the road were perfectly civil and respectful. “ Anata Ohio ,” or “ Good morning, sir,” was a common salutation. Kaempfer informs us that in his time “ multitudes of beggars crowded the roads in all parts of the empire, but particularly on the so much frequented Tokaido.” Some of the Chap. IV. TEA-HOUSES. 05 members of Lord Elgin’s embassy, if I remember right, seem to doubt the truth of this, as they did not meet with any on the occasion of their visit to Kawasaky ; but on this occasion beggars were pro- bably kept out of the way by the authorities. Truth compels me to state that at the present day, as in the days of Kaempfer, the beggars in Japan are numerous and importunate. As I rode along the road, there were many who “ sat by the way- side begging.” These were “ the maimed, the halt, the lame, and the blind,” who, as I passed by, prostrated themselves on the ground and asked for alms. Tea-houses for the refreshment and accommoda- tion of travellers formed the most remarkable fea- ture on the road, and were met with at every few hundred yards. These buildings, like the shops, are perfectly open in front, and have the floors slightly raised and covered with mats, on which customers squatted and took refreshment. The cooking apparatus was always fully exposed to view, with its necessary appendages, such as pots, kettles, teacups, and basins. On approaching one of these tea-houses some pretty young ladies met us in the middle of the road with a tray on which were placed sundry cups of tea of very good qua- lity. This they begged us to partake of to refresh us and help us on our journey. When about six miles from Kanagawa we arrived at one of these tea-houses which was rather larger than usual. Here it seemed to be the duty or privilege of the F 6(5 KAWASAKY. Chap. IV. landlord to provide water for the horses of tra- vellers and Government officials, and consequently we found a man ready with a pail of water for our horses. It is customary to leave a small present in the coin of the country in return for these civilities. With the exception of a few hundred yards here and there, the whole road from Kanagawa to Yedo is lined on each side with houses. Now and then the single row expands into a village or town of considerable size, teeming witli a dense population. One of these, named Ivawasaky, stands about seven or eight miles east from Kanagawa. It seemed a busy market-town. The road which formed the main street was lined with shops and tea-houses, and crowded with people passing to and fro, buying and selling, or lolling about looking on. Travellers too were numerous, who were either going to the capital or returning from it on the great highway. Now and then we met a long train of coolies and armed men in the wake of a nori m on containing an official or person of rank. The coolies were carrying the luggage, and the retainers were in attendance probably as much for show as for the protection of their master. When we arrived at the further end of Kawa- saky we were again politely stopped by mine host of the “ Hotel of Ten Thousand Centuries,” a tea- house of the first class, who insisted on our entering his establishment for refreshment to ourselves and our good steeds. His invitation was seconded by Chap. IV. RIVER LOGA. (37 three or four Japanese beauties, but we were un- gallant enough this time to decline the hospitality, as it was unnecessary, and as these frequent stop- pages were rather expensive. At this place the river Loga intersects the main road. According to treaty, foreigners are not allowed to pass further than this point in the direc- tion of the capital, unless they belong to the Lega- tions of those nations who have treaties with Japan. Special permissions are however granted by the dif- ferent ministers, with the sanction of the Japanese Government. In all other directions from Kana- gawa, except this one, foreigners are allowed to travel to the distance of ten ri , or about twenty-five miles. It will be seen, therefore, that there is a large tract of country available either for recrea- tion or for researches in natural history, geology, and other sciences. Dismounting from our horses, we crossed the Loga in flat-bottomed boats, the horses being put into one, and the yakoneens and myself going in another. This river is but a small stream of one hundred feet in width, and quite shallow. Our boats were guided and propelled across by long bamboo poles. When we had crossed the river we rode onwards in the direction of the capital. For some distance the road, the houses, and other ob- jects, were just a repetition of what I have already described. After riding about two miles we arrived at a place called Omora, where there is a celebrated tea-house named Mae-vaski, which being interpreted f 2 68 MANSION OF PLUM-TREES. Chap. IV. means the “ Mansion of Plum-trees.” Here we were met by mine host and some pretty damsels, and invited to partake of the usual refreshment. The “ Mansion of Plum-trees ” is one of the best of the class to which it belongs. It is arranged in the usual style, — that is, it has a number of apart- ments separated from each other by sliding doors, and raised floors covered with mats kept scrupu- lously clean, upon which the natives sit down to eat their meals and drink tea or saki. In front of the door there is a matted platform, raised about, a foot from the ground and covered overhead. Ladies travelling in norimons or kangos, when about to stop at the tea-house, are brought along- side of this platform, the hearers give the convey- ance a tilt on one side, and the fair ones are literally emptied out upon the stage. They seem quite ac- customed to this treatment, and immediately gather themselves up in the most coquettish way pos- sible, and assume the squatting posture common in Japan. Whether we really needed refreshment, or whe- ther we could not resist the laughing-faced damsels above mentioned, is not of much moment to the general reader ; one thing is certain, that somehow or other we found ourselves within the “ Man- sion of Plum-trees,” surrounded by pretty, good- humoured girls, and sipping a cup of fragrant tea. One lady, not particularly young, and whom I took for the hostess, had adorned herself by pulling out her eyebrows and blackening her teeth, which cer- Chap. IV. WAITING-MAIDS. 69 tainly in my opinion did not improve her appear- ance. However, there is no accounting for taste ; and certainly our own taste, in many respects, is not so pure as to warrant us in “ throwing the first stone” at the Japanese. The young girls who were in attendance upon me had glittering white teeth, and their lips stained with a dark crimson dye. The Japanese innkeeper always secures the prettiest girls for his waiting-maids, reminding me in this respect of our owm publicans and their bar- maids. These inns and their waiting-maids seem to have been much the same in the days of Ksempfer, in the year 1690, as I found them in 1860. “ Nor must I forget,” he says, “ to take notice of the numberless wenches the great and small inns, and the tea-booths and cook-shops, in villages and ham- lets, are furnished withal. About noon, when they have done dressing and painting themselves, they make their appearance, standing under the doors of the house, or sitting upon the small gallery around it, whence, with a smiling countenance and good words, they invite the travelling troops that pass by to call in at their inn, preferable to others. In some places, where there are several inns stand- ing near one another, they make, with their chat- tering and rattling, no inconsiderable noise, and prove not a little troublesome.” The Japanese ladies differ much from those of China in their manners and customs. It is etiquette with the latter to run away the moment they see 70 GARDEN OF THE MANSION. Chap. IV. the face of a foreigner ; but the J apanese, on the contrary, do not show the slightest diffidence or fear of us. In these tea-houses they come up with smiling faces, crowd around you, examine your clothes, and have even learnt to shake hands ! Although in manners they are much more free than the Chinese, I am not aware they are a whit less moral than their shy sisters on the other side of the water. In addition to tea, my fair waiting-maids brought a tray containing cakes, sweetmeats of various kinds, and a number of hard-boiled eggs, which one of them kept cracking and peeling, and pressing upon me. As I was seated in the midst of my good-humoured entertainers, the scene must have been highly amusing to a looker-on, and would, I doubt not, have made a capital photograph. My yakoneens were in a different room, and, apparently, had good appetites, and were making- good use of their time. Leaving them to finish their meal, I took the opportunity of having a stroll through the large garden in front of the “ Mansion.” As its name implied, it contained a large number of flowering plum-trees, planted in groups and in avenues. Little lakes or ponds, of irregular and pleasing forms, were in the centre of the garden, in which gold fish and tortoises were swimming about in perfect harmony. These little lakes were spanned by rustic bridges, and sur- rounded with artificial rockwork, in which ferns and dwarf shrubs were planted. Altogether the Chap. IV. SIN AG AW A. 71 place was pretty and enjoyable, even at this time of the year. In spring or summer, when the trees are in full bloom, or covered with leaves, the “ Mansion of Plum-trees ” must be a charming place. Bidding a polite adieu to our fair entertainers, we mounted our horses and continued our journey along the great highway. For the last three or four miles of the journey, the road had taken a direction more inland, and we had lost sight of the bay. Now, however, the bay came again into view, and the road led along its banks as before. Gradually it became more crowded with people, the buildings and shops appeared of a better class, and everything indicated our near approach to the imperial city. We now entered the suburb of Sinagawa, a place often mentioned in the writings of the Dutch travellers. On our left we observed many fine houses and temples, and some stately trees ; while on our right the upper part of the bay lay spread out to our view. Before us lay the great city, encircling the head of the bay in the form of a crescent, and stretching away almost to the distant horizon. Far out in the bay a square-rigged vessel of war was lying at anchor ; it proved to be the United States frigate ‘ Niagara,’ which had just brought home the Japanese ambassadors from their visit to America. A crownl of small trading vessels and fishing boats lay in the shallow water near the shore ; and a chain of batteries commanded the anchorage. 72 BRITISH LEGATION. Chap. IY. While I was quietly observing all these objects, one of my yakoneens, who was riding ahead to show the way, suddenly turned in to the left and intimated that we had arrived at the residence of the English Minister. I found his Excellency at home ; he received me most kindly, introduced me to the gentlemen of the Embassy, and gave me quarters in the Legation. The British Legation is located in a large temple, or rather in buildings adjoining, such as are at- tached to nearly all the large temples in Japan, and which are probably intended to receive visitors, or as seminaries for the Buddhist priesthood. It stands at the head of a little valley, hacked behind and on each side by low richly-wooded hills, some- what in the form of a horse -shoe, and open in front to the Bay of Yedo. The situation is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful. A fine wide avenue, some 200 yards in length, leads up from the hay to the residence of the English Minister. Orna- mental gateways stretch over the avenue and give it a pretty appearance, and here and there I observed some large examples of Pinus Massoniana, Cryptomeria japonica, Salisburia adiantifolia, Podo- carpus macrophyllus, camellias, &c. On the west side of the temple there is a large cemetery covered with many thousands of stone tombs, some of them apparently of great age. One of these cemeteries is attached to almost every temple about Yedo, hut this is the largest that came under my observation. They seem, in almost Chap. IV. GARDEN OF THE LEGATION. 73 all instances, to be placed on the west side of the temples. The Japanese, like their neighbours in China, pay great attention to the graves of their dead. They frequently visit them, and place branches of s/cimmi {1 llic him anisatum ), laurels, and other evergreens, in bamboo tubes in front of the stones. When these branches wither they remove them and replace them by others. The trade of collecting and selling these branches must be one of considerable magnitude in Japan ; they are exposed, in large quantities, for sale in all the cities and villages ; one is continually meeting with people carrying them in the streets ; and they seem always fresh upon the graves, showing that they are frequently replaced. A garden situated in the rear of the build- ings of the Legation, although small in extent, is one of the most charming little spots I ever be- held. The circular hill already noticed rises up behind, and forms a background to the picture : this hill is richly covered with trees of great size and beauty ; particularly some fine evergreen oaks, seeds of which Mr. Alcock has sent to Kew. On the lower part of the hill there is some pretty rock- work covered with maples, azaleas, camellias, and other plants, with a species of plum, whose branches hung down like a weeping willow. At the base there is a small lake of irregular and pleasing form, extending the whole width of the garden, and between this and the temple there is a little lawn which gives a quiet and pleasing finish to the whole. 74 GARDEN OF THE LEGATION. Chap. IY. To complete the picture as it appeared to me : it was a bright autumnal day ; an old maple-tree, with blood-red leaves, was hanging over the lake at one end — an azalea, with leaves of a glowing crimson, was seen in groups at the other ; patches of red, purple, and of almost every hue, met the eye in all directions, and produced a striking effect, backed as they were by the deep green of the camellia, evergreen oak, and pine. As the large trees in the background threw a shade over some parts of the garden, while the sun’s rays streamed through other parts, or shone full upon the varied colours, the effect produced made one almost fancy oneself in some fairy land. Little walks led through amongst the bushes over the hill-side, where the different plants can be minutely examined, and where shade can be had from the fierce rays of the sun. A fine avenue has been made on the top of the eastern spur, extending down towards the bay, whence a delightful view to seaward can be obtained, and where exercise and the cool morning and evening breezes can he enjoyed, without the nuisance of being followed by the officials of the Japanese Government, an annoyance to which every one has to submit if he moves out of the grounds of the temple. The garden I have been describing is purely Japanese, Mr. Alcock having found it much in the same state as I saw it. The French Consul-General, and his able secretary the Abbe Gerard, have each a garden, which they found attached to the temples Ciiap. IV. THE YAKONEENS. 75 given up to them as their places of residence. These g’ardens are all remarkable for azaleas of extraordinary size, which have been kept carefully clipped ; and if they are covered with flowers in the spring, as I believe they are, they must be indeed charming objects to look upon. The gardens and grounds of the Legation are surrounded by a high wooden fence, and the gates are guarded by armed yakoneens. If any of the members of the Legation or their visitors pass out of this enclosure, they are immediately followed *by some of these men. If the foreigner prefers a walk they walk after him ; or if he goes out on horse- back they follow in the same style. For some time this proceeding was thought to be quite un- necessary, and it was supposed that these men acted merely as spies, to report all the doings of the foreigners. The Japanese Government have always maintained that the system was necessary for our protection ; and although it has no doubt signally failed in some instances, as for example, in the case of poor Mr. ITeuskin the American interpreter, yet I have no doubt in my own mind that many lives have been saved by means of it. In so far as the Government is concerned, I believe there is every desire to prevent disturbances with foreigners, and this is one of the means it uses to accomplish that object. At the time of my visit there were an unusually large number of foreigners living in Yedo. In addition to the members of the English, French, 76 THE YAKONEENS. Chap. IV, and American Legations, whose countries had already made treaties with Japan, there was a deputation from Prussia engaged in making a treaty for that country, and a number of American officers who had come out in the ‘ Niagara ’ with the Japanese ambassadors. Everything was going on quietly ; and although a short time before Mr. Alcock’s servant — a Japanese — had been murdered, and an attempt had been made upon the life of a Frenchman in the service of the French Consul-General, the impression was, that these men were probably not altogether blameless, and had brought such punishments upon themselves. Be that as it may, no one seemed to have any hesitation in moving about, and I thus had an opportunity of seeing all the most remarkable parts of the city, as well as many suburban places of great interest. It is true that we were always followed by the guard of yakoneens, but one had only to fancy himself a person of great importance — a prince or a noble in the far East — and this body-guard was easily endured. I found them always perfectly civil, and often of great use in showing me the right road. Ciiap. V. THE CITY OF YEDO. 77 CHAPTER V. The city of Yedo — Hill of the god Atango — Magnificent view of the city from its summit — “ Official quarter ” — Broad streets — Castles of the feudal princes — The inner circle — Moats and massive walls — Clumps of trees — No embrasure or guns visible — Use of the moats and ramparts — Murder of the Regent or Gotiro — Fate of the murderers — The Harikari — Castle of the Emperor — Kamipfer’s description — “Belle Yue” — Population of Yedo — Size of the city. On the day after my arrival in Yedo Mr. Alcock was good enough to invite me to accompany him in a ride through some of the most interesting parts of the city. The Legation is situated in the south-west suburb, and the main portion of the great city lies to the eastward from our starting- point. There was nothing to indicate to a stranger the point where the western suburb ended and the city commenced ; indeed, as it has been justly ob- served, “ the suburb of Sinagawa merges into Yedo much in the same way as Kensington straggles into London.” Taking then an easterly course, a portion of our road led us through lanes fringed with fields and gardens, and through streets some- what resembling those of a country town in England. During the first part of our route there was nothing particularly striking to attract our 78 HILL OF THE GOD ATANGO. Chap. Y. attention. Soon, however, we arrived at a spot of great interest. This was a little hill, one of the highest of the many hills which are dotted about all over the city. Its name was Atango-yama, which means the “ Hill of the god Atango.” On its summit there is a temple erected to the idol, and a number of arbours where visitors, who come either for worship or for pleasure, can be supplied with cups of tea. Leaving our horses at the foot of the hill, we ascended it by a long flight of stone steps, which were laid from the base to the summit. When we arrived at the top of the steps, we found ourselves in front of the temple and its surrounding arbours. Here we wmre waited upon by blooming damsels, and invited to partake of sundry cups of hot tea. But the temple, the arbours, and even our fair wait- ing-maids, were for the time disregarded as we gazed upon the vast and beautiful city which lay below us spread out like a vast panorama. Until now I had formed no adequate idea of the size of the capital of Japan. Before leaving China I had heard stories of its great size, and of its population of two millions ; but I confess I had great doubts as to the truth of these reports, and thought it not improbable that, both as to size and population, the accounts of Yedo might be much exaggerated. But now I looked upon the city with my own eyes, and they confirmed all that I had been previously told. Looking back to the south-west over the wooded Chap. V. VIEW OF THE CITY OF YEDO. 79 suburb of Sinagawa from which we had just come, and gradually and slowly carrying our eyes to the south and on to the east, we saw the fair city of Yedo extending for many miles along the shores of the bay, in the form of a crescent or half-moon. It was a beautiful autumnal afternoon, and very pretty this queen of cities looked as she lay bask- ing in the sun. The waters of the bay were smooth as glass, and were studded here and there with the white sails of fisliing-boats and other native craft ; a few island batteries formed a breastwork for the protection of the town ; and far away in the dis- tance some hills were dimly seen on the opposite shores. Turning from the east towards the north, we looked over an immense valley covered with houses, temples, and gardens, and extending far away almost to the horizon. A wide river, spanned by four or five wooden bridges, ran through this part of the town and emptied itself into the bay. On the opposite side of a valley, some two miles wide and densely covered with houses, we saw the palace of the Tycoon and the “ official quarter ” of the city, encircled with massive stone walls and deep moats. Outside of this there are miles of wide straight streets and long substantial barn- looking buildings, which are the town residences of the feudal princes and their numerous retainers. To the westward our view ranged over a vast extent of city, having in the background a chain of wooded hills, whose sloping sides were covered with houses, temples, and trees. A large and 80 RESIDENCES OF THE DAIMIOS. Chap. V. populous portion of Yeclo lies beyond these hills, but that was now hidden from our view. Such is the appearance which Yedo presents when viewed from the summit of Atango-yama. This hill now bears the modern title of “ Grande Yue,” and well it deserves the name. After we had enjoyed this magnificent view for some time, we descended by the stone steps and resumed Our ride. Our road now skirted a hill clothed with noble timber-trees and surrounded with walls. This was the Imperial cemetery. A short distance beyond this we crossed the first or outer moat, and were then in the “ official quarter,” amongst the residences of the Daimios and their retainers. Here the streets are wide, straight, and cleanly kept, and altogether have quite a different appearance from those we had already passed through. Good drains are carried down each side to take off the super- fluous water. All we saw of the houses of the Daimios was the outer walls, the grated windows, and the massive-looking doors, many of them deco- rated with the armorial bearings of their owners. These buildings were low — generally two stories high ; their foundations and lower walls were formed of massive stonework, and the upper part of wood and chunam. Judging from the general length of the outer street walls, the interior of these places must be of great size ; indeed such must necessarily be the case, to enable them to accommo- date the large number of retainers which these princes always keep about them. As we rode along, PLAN OF CENTRAL PORTION OF THE CITY OF YEDO. a. Tycoon’s 1’nlace and Gardens. I E. Outer Moat. b. Residences of the Dainiios. each circular mark F. Commercial Quarter. representing the Symbol (Crest) of Owner. I g. River Todogawa, with which Moats and Canals C. Inner Moat of Tycoon’s Palace. communicate. D. Second Moal. Page 81. Chap. V. MOATS AND MASSIVE WALLS. 81 many of these retainers showed themselves at the grated windows. It might be only fancy on my part, but I thought I could discern little good-will or friendly feeling towards ourselves in their coun- tenances. I have just stated that we crossed a bridge over a deep moat before entering the Daimios’ quarter. In order to give an idea of the plan of this part of the city, I may compare the moat to a rope loosely coiled ; the end of the outer coil dipping as it were into the river, and supplying the whole with water. It is not correct to say, as is sometimes said, that there are three concentric circles, each surrounded by a moat. The Tycoon's palace and the offices of his ministers are situated in the centre of the coil, while the outer and wider portion encircles the mansions of the feudal princes. The second or inner moat and enclosure was now in view in front of us, with its houses and palaces on rising ground. On the inner side of this circling-moat there are high walls on the water’s edge formed of large blocks of stone, of a polygonal form, and nicely fitted into each other without the aid of lime or cement. This is a favourite mode of building in Japan in all cases in which stone is used. The plan is probably adopted in order to render such structures more secure in a country like this which is so subject to earthquakes. In some places sloping banks of green turf rise steeply from the edge of the moat, and are crowned at the top with a massive wall. A landslip in these banks, G 82 MURDER OF THE REGENT. Chap. V. however, showed that the wall which apparently crowned their summits had its foundation far below, and that the hanks themselves had been formed in front of the wall. On many of these green banks there are groups of juniper and pine trees, while inside the wall itself tall specimens of the same trees rear their lofty heads high above the ram- parts. Xo embrasures or places for guns were observed in these walls, although one would imagine they had been erected for the purposes of defence. Kaempfer, however, assigns another reason ; he says, “ Yedo is not enclosed with a wall, no more than other towns in Japan, but cut through by many broad canals, with ramparts raised on both sides, and planted at the top with rows of trees, not so much for defence as to prevent the fires — which happen here too frequently — from making too great a havoc.” A few months previous to the time of my visit, the Gotiro, or Regent of the Empire, had been waylaid and murdered in open day, as he was proceeding from his residence to his office in the inner quarter. The scene of this tragedy was pointed out to me. A writer in the ‘ Edinburgh Review’ gives the following graphic account of this horrid murder : — “ Within the second moated circle facing the bay, the causeway leads over a gentle acclivity, near the summit of which, lying a little back- ward, is an imposing gateway, flanked on either side with a range of buildings, which form the Chap. V. MURDER OF THE REGENT. 83 outer screens of large courtyards. Over the gates, in copper metal, is the crest of the noble owner — the chief of the house of Ikomono, in which is vested the hereditary office of Regent, whenever a minor fills the Tycoon’s throne. From the commanding position of this residence a view is obtained of a long sweep of the ram- part ; and midway the descent ends in a long level line of road. Just at this point, not 500 yards distant, is one of the three bridges across the moat, which leads into the inner enclosure, where the castle of the Tycoon is situated. It was about ten o’clock in the morning of the 24th of March, while a storm of alternate sleet and rain swept over the exposed road and open space, offering little inducement to mere idlers to be abroad, that a train was seen to emerge from the Gotiro’s residence. The appearance of the cortege was sufficient to tell those familiar with the habits and customs of the Japanese that the Regent himself was in the midst, on his way to the palace, where his daily duties called him. Although the numbers were inconsider- able, and all the attendants were enveloped in their rain-proof cloaks of oiled paper, with great circular hats of basket or lacquered ware tied to their heads, yet the two standard-bearers bore aloft at the end of their spears the black tuft of. feathers, distinctive of a Daimio, and always marking his presence. A small company of officers and personal attendants walk in front G 2 84 MURDER OF THE REGENT. Chap. Y. and round the foremost norimon, while a troop of inferior office-bearers follow, grooms with led horses, extra norimon-bearers, baggage-porters — for no officer, much less a Daimio, ever leaves his house without a train of baggage — empty or full, they are essential to his dignity. Then there are umbrella-bearers — the servants of the servants — along the line. The cortege slowly wound its way down the hill, for the roads were wet and muddy even on the high ground, while the bearers were blinded by the drifting sleet, carefully excluded only from the noromons by closed screens. Thus suspended in a sort of cage, just large enough to permit a man to sit cross-legged, the principal personage proceeded on his way to the palace. Little, it wmuld seem, did either he or his men dream of possible danger. How should they, indeed, on such a spot, and for so exalted a personage ? Xo augur or soothsayer gave warning to beware of the ‘ Ides of March.’ .... The edge of the moat is gained. A still larger cortege of the Prince of Kiu-siu, one of the royal brothers, was already on the bridge, and passing through the gate on the opposite side, while, coming up from the causeway, at a few paces distant, was the retinue of the second of these brothers, the . Prince of Owari. The Gotiro was thus between them at the foot of the bridge, on the open space formed by the making of a broad street, which debouches on the bridge. A few strag- Chap. V. MURDER OF THE REGENT. 85 glin g groups, enveloped in their oil-paper cloaks, alone were near, when suddenly one of these seeming idlers flung himself across the line of march, immediately in front of the Regent’s norimon. The officers of his household, whose place is on each side of him, rushed forward at this unprecedented interruption — a fatal move, which had evidently been anticipated, for their place was instantly filled with armed men in coats of mail, who seemed to have sprung from the earth — a compact band of some eighteen or twenty men. With flashing swords and frightful yells, blows were struck at all around, the lightest of which severed men’s hands from the poles of the norimon, and cut down those who did not fly. Deadly and brief was the struggle. The unhappy officers and attendants, thus taken by surprise, were hampered with their rain gear, and many fell before they could draw a sword to defend either themselves or their lord. A few seconds must have done the work, so more than one looker-on declared ; and before any thought of rescue seemed to have come to the attendants and escorts of the two other princes, both very near ' (if, indeed, they were total strangers to what was passing), one of the band was seen to dash along the causeway with a gory trophy in his hand. Many had fallen in the melee on both sides. Two of 'the assailants, who were badly wounded, finding escape impos- sible, it. is said, stopped in their flight, and 86 MURDER OF THE REGENT. Chap. V. deliberately performed the Harikari,* to the edification of their pursuers ; for. it seems to he the law (so sacred is the rite, or right, which- ever may he the proper reading) that no one may he interrupted, even for the ends of justice. These are held to be sufficiently secured by the self-immolation of the criminal, however heinous the offence ; and it is a privilege to he denied to no one entitled to w T ear two swords. Other accounts say that their companions, as a last act of friendship, despatched them to prevent their falling into the hands of the torturer. Eight of the assailants were unaccounted for when all was over ; and the remnant of the Regent’s people, released from their deadly struggle, hur- ried to the norimon to see how it fared with their master in the brief interval, to find only a headless trunk. The bleeding trophy carried oft’ had been the head of the Gotiro himself, hacked off on the spot. But strangest of all these startling incidents, it is further related that two heads were found missing, and that which \vas seen in the fugitive’s hand w T as only a lure to the pursuing party, while the true trophy had been secreted on the person of another, and Avas thus successfully carried off. The decoy paid the penalty of his life. After leading the chase through a first gateway down the road, and dashing past the useless guard, he was finally overtaken ; the end for which he * The act of suicide by ripping open the stomach. Chap. V. FATE OF THE MURDERERS. 87 Lad devoted himself having, however, as we have seen, been accomplished. Whether this be merely a popular version or the simple truth, it serves to prove what is believed to be a likely course of action ; and how ready desperate men are to sacrifice their lives for an object. The officer in command of the guard, who allowed his post to be forced, was ordered the next day to perform the Harikari on the spot. The rest of the story is soon told. All Yedo was thrown into commotion. The wardgates were all closed ; the whole machinery of the government in spies, police, and soldiers, was put in motion, and in a few days it was generally believed the whole of the eight missing were arrested, and in the hands of the torturer. What revelations were wrung; from them, or whether they were enabled to resist the utmost strain that could he put upon their quivering flesh and nerve, remains shrouded in mystery.” Eiding onwards, and keeping the citadel on our left, we passed two or three bridges which crossed the inner moat, and led into the palace and offices of the ministers. These personages and their servants may he seen daily going to office about nine or ten o’clock in the morning, and returning to their homes about four in the afternoon, much like what occurs at our own public offices. Some walk to office, some ride on horseback, and others go in norimons. Almost every man we met was armed with two swords. 88 CASTLE OF THE EMPEROR. Chap. V. Now and then we met or passed a Daimio, or official of rank, accompanied by his train of retainers, armed with swords, spears, and match- locks, and with the usual amount of luggage, large umbrellas, led horses, and other signs of his rank. No foreign visitor to Yedo is allowed to enter the sacred precincts of the inner enclosure which we were now riding round. A short time before this, a portion of the palace of the Emperor had been burned down, and it was now being rebuilt. Judging from the part of it which came under my observation hi the distance, it did not seem a very imposing structure. Ksompfer writes in glowing terms of the palace of his day : “ It had a tower many stories high, adorned with roofs and other curious ornaments, which make the whole castle look, at a distance, magnificent beyond expression, amazing the beholders, as do also the many other beautiful bended roofs, with gilt dragons at the top, which cover the rest of the buildings within the castle.” As this work, how- ever, professes only to give the reader a descrip- tion of what came under my own observation, I must leave to others the description of the interior of the Tycoon’s castle. We had approached the citadel on the south, passed round it to the eastward, and were now on a rising ground on the north. Here another of those splendid views over the city and bay was obtained. This point has been named “ Belle Chap. Y. POPULATION OF YEDO. 8 ( J Yue ” by foreigners, and deservedly so. It would be a mere repetition of what I saw from the “ Hill of Atano-o ” to describe the scene which we now again beheld. Suffice it to say, that a vast city, bounded on one side by a beautiful bay, and on the other by the far off horizon, lay spread out beneath us. The land appeared studded all over with gardens ; undulating ground and little hills were dotted about in every direction, crowned with evergreen trees, such as oaks and pines, and, although it was now far on in November, there was nothing to indicate the winter time in Yedo. The population of this fine city has been esti- mated at about two millions of souls. The extent of ground covered by Yedo, and the main parts of its suburbs, has been stated by Kasmpfer, on Japanese authority, to be about sixteen English miles long, twelve broad, and fifty in circumference. Judging from a native map of the city now before me, and from having ridden through it in all direc- tions, I think the following is about its true size: From the southern suburb of Sinagawa to the north-eastern suburb the distance is about twelve miles, and from east to west it is about eight miles. Of course miles of extensive suburbs lie beyond these points, but these must be looked upon as being in the country and not in the town. M T e could have lingered long on Mount “ Belle Yue,” and gazed upon the beautiful panorama which lay before us ; but the last rays of an autumnal sun reminded us that it was time to 90 RETURN TO THE LEGATION Chai>. y. return home. Having completed the circle of the Tycoon’s castle, we took a southerly course ; and winding our way through streets which sometimes led us over little hills, sometimes through lanes and gardens, we in due time reached the gates of the British Legation. A Yedo Gentleman, with Servant carrying Sword, and Custom-house Officer with Fan, Chap. VI. EXCURSIONS ROUND YEDO. 91 CHAPTER VI. The country round Yedo — Hill and valley — Trees — Autumnal fo- liage — Views of Fusi-yama — Cottages and farm-houses — Flowers and vegetables — Signs of high civilization — Public baths — Beau- tiful lanes and hedges — Avenues and groves — Civility of the people — Dogs and their prejudices — Street dogs — Lapdogs — Fire at the British Legation — Mode of giving alarm — Organization of Fire-brigade — Wretched engines — Presents from foreign govern- ments — More suitable ones pointed out. During my stay in Yedo I made many excursions into the surrounding country — sometimes on horseback, and at other times on foot — but invariably accompanied with a guard of yako- neens. If the reader will accompany me on one of these excursions, I shall endeavour to show him something of the country, as I have already done of the town. Our road leads us to the westward, and we are soon clear of the straggling suburb of Sinagawa. The land is undulating in its general features, and consists of a succession of hills and valleys. The valleys are low and flat, and capable of being irrigated by tbe streams which flow down from the surrounding hills. Rice is the staple crop of these low lands, and it was now of a yellow hue and ready for the reap- ing-hook of the farmer. The hills which encircle 92 VIEWS OF FUSI-TAMA. Chap. VI. the valleys are covered with brushwood and lofty trees. Here the gigantic Cryptomeria japonica, the noble pine, and the evergreen oak are pecu- liarly at home. Clumps of bamboos and the palm of the country ( Chamcerops excelsa ) give a sort of tropical character to the scenery. The vivid hues of the autumnal foliage are most striking, and produce a wonderful and beautiful effect upon the landscape. The sumach and various species of maples have now put on their varied shades of colour — yellow, red, and purple ; the leaves of the azalea are changing into a deep, glowing crimson ; and these masses of “ all hues ” con- trast well with the green foliage of the oaks and pines. As the eye wanders over these valleys and hills, it rests at last on a conical mountain in the background, some 14,000 feet in height, and nearly covered with snow : this is Fusi-yama, the holy mountain of Japan. It would certainly be difficult in all the world to find a scene of greater natural beauty than this. As we rode onwards we passed many snug little suburban residences, farm-houses, and cot- tages, having little gardens in front containing a few of the favourite flowering-plants of the country. A remarkable feature in the Japanese character is, that, even to the lowest classes, all have an inherent love for flowers, and find in the cultivation of a few pet plants an endless source of recreation and unalloyed pleasure. If this he one of the tests of a high state of Ciiap. Yf. PUBLIC BATHS. 93 civilization amongst a people, the lower orders amongst the Japanese come out in a most fa- vourable light when contrasted with the same classes amongst ourselves. Vegetables, too, w T ere observed in abundance. All foreigners who visit Japan remark on the little flavour possessed by the vegetables of the country. This is probably owing to the peaty nature of the soil. Although dark in colour and apparently rich in vegetable matter, yet it has not the strength or substance of the soil which is found (for example) in the rich alluvial plain of the Yang-tze-kiang in China. In one of the villages through which we passed we observed what appeared to be a family bathing-room. The baths at the time were full of persons of both sexes, old and young, ap- parently of three or four generations, and all were perfectly naked. This was a curious exhi- bition to a foreigner, but the reader must remember we are now in Japan. Bathing-houses or rooms, both public and private, are found in all parts of the Japanese empire — in the midst of crowded cities, or, as we here see, in country villages. The bath is one of the institutions of the country; it is as indispensable to a Japanese as tea is to a Chinaman. In the afternoon, in the evening, and up to a late hour at night, the bath is in full operation. Those who can afford it have baths in their own houses for the use of themselves and their families ; the poorer classes, 94 PROMISCUOUS BATHING. Chap. VI. for a very small sum, can enjoy themselves at the public baths. After coming in from a long journey, or when tired with the labours of the day, the Japanese consider a bath to be particularly refreshing and enjoyable ; and it is probably on this account, as well as for cleanliness, that it is so universally employed. The stern moralist of Western countries will no doubt condemn the system of promiscuous bathing, as it is contrary to all his ideas of decency ; on the other hand, there are those who tell us that the custom only shows simplicity and innocence such as that which existed in the Garden of Eden before the fall of man. All I can say is, that it is the custom of the country to bathe in this way, and that, if appealed to on the subject, the Japanese would probably tell us that many of the customs amongst ourselves — such, for example, as our mode of dressing and dancing — are much more likely to lead to immorality than bathing, and are not so useful nor so healthy ; at any rate, the practice cannot be attributed to habits of primitive inno- cence in this case, as no people in the world are more licentious in their behaviour than the Japanese. Never in my wanderings in any other coun- try did I meet with such charming lanes as we passed through on this occasion. Sometimes they reminded me of what I had met with in some of the country districts of England ; but I was compelled, notwithstanding early prejudices, Chap. YI. AVENUES AND GROVES. 95 to admit that nothing in England even could be compared to them. Large avenues and groves of pines, particularly of Cryptomeria , were fre- quently met with, fringing the roads, and afford- ing most delicious shade from the rays of the sun. Now and then magnificent hedges were observed, composed sometimes of evergreen oaks of various species, sometimes of Cryptomeria japonica and other evergreens. These were kept carefully clipped, and in some instances they were trained to a great height, reminding one of those high hedges of holly or yew which may frequently he met with in the parks or gardens of our English nobility. Everywhere the cottages and farm-houses had a neat and clean appearance, such as I had never observed in any other part of the East. Fre- quently we came upon tea-houses for the refresh- ment of travellers ; and these had little gardens and fish-ponds in their rear, of which glimpses were obtained as we rode slowly by. The scene was always changing and always beautiful — hill and valley, broad roads and shaded lanes, houses and gardens, with a people industrious, but un- oppressed with toil, and apparently happy and contented . Such is the appearance of the sylvan scenery in the vicinity of Yedo. I could scarcely fancy myself on the borders of one of the largest and most populous cities in the East, with a popula- tion of two millions of human beings, and cover- ing nearly a hundred square miles of land. As STREET DOGS. Chap. VI. 96 we rode through this charming scenery, the stillness was broken only by the rustling of the leaves of the trees and the tread of our horses’ feet. The people in the villages through which we passed were quiet and civil, and did not annoy us in any way. Little urchins sometimes shouted out To-jin, To-jin, as we passed by — a term which means Chinaman, but which pro- bably is also used to designate a foreigner, or one who is not a native of Japan. I am not aware that the term is meant as an offensive one, and it certainly does not appear quite so bad as Fan-kwei, or Pih-kwei — that is ; foreign devil, or wdiite devil — terms applied to us in China rather too frequently. The dogs were the only animals which showed their enmity to us, and this they did in a manner not to be mistaken. They rushed out of the houses, and barked at us in the most furious manner ; but they are cowardly withal, and generally keep at a prudent distance. These dogs appear to be of the same breed as the common Chinese dog, and both have pro- bablv sprung originally from the same stock. It is curious that they should have the same antipathy to foreigners as their masters. For, however civil and even kind the natives of Japan and China appear to be, yet there is no doubt that nine-tenths of them hate and despise us. Apparently such feelings are born with them, and they really cannot help themselves. Chap. VI. STREET DOGS. 97 That we are allowed to live and travel and trade in these countries is only because one class makes money out of us, and another and a larger one is afraid of our power. I fear we must come to the conclusion, however unwillingly, that these are the motives which keep Orientals on their good behaviour, and force them to tolerate us amongst them. The poor dogs have the same feel- ings implanted in their nature, hut they have not the same hypocrisy, and therefore their hate is visible. As watch-dogs they are admirable, and that is almost the only use to which they are applied. Old Dutch writers inform us that these street dogs belong to no particular individual, but that they are denizens of particular streets — public property, as it were — and that they are regarded with a kind of superstitious feeling by the natives. They are “ the only idlers in the country.” I think these statements may be re- ceived as doubtfulj or only partially true. Al- though some of these dogs may have neither home nor master, yet by far the greater portion have both ; and if the inhabitants look upon them as sacred animals, and have any superstitious feelings regarding them, they certainly show these feelings of reverence in a peculiarly irreverent manner. On a warm summer afternoon these animals may be seen lying at full length in the public highway, apparently sound asleep ; and it was not unusual for our attendants to kick and whip them out of our road in a most unceremoni- li 98 LAPDOGS. Chap. VI. ous way. On many of them the marks of the sharp swords of the yakoneens were plainly visible ; and everything tended to show, that, if the dogs are regarded as sacred by some, the feeling fails to secure them from being cruelly ill-treated by the common people. It was not unusual to meet with wretched specimens in a half-starved condi- tion, and covered with a loathsome disease. The fact that such animals were tolerated in the public streets almost leads one to believe that they must be regarded with superstitious feelings. The lapdogs of the country are highly prized both by natives and by foreigners. They are small — some of them not more than nine or ten inches in length. They are remarkable for snub- noses and sunken eyes, and are certainly more curious than beautiful. They are carefully bred ; they command high juices even amongst the Japanese ; and are dwarfed, it is said, by the use of saki — a spirit 4o which their owners are par- ticularly partial. Like those of the larger breed already noticed, they are remarkable for the intense hatred they bear to foreigners. After a most pleasant excursion we found our- selves at the gates of the British Legation, just as it was getting dark. The evenings were now cold, and some new stoves had been put up in the dining-room. The first gong had sounded, and we were getting ready for dinner — a meal for which the excursion into the country had fully prepared us. But the day was not to end so Chap. VI. FIRE AT THE BRITISH LEGATION. 99 agreeably as we had supposed. A pipe leading from the stove set fire to the roof of the dining- room, and for some time it was feared the whole of the Legation would be destroyed. The watchmen who surrounded the premises gave the first alarm to those outside by beating in a peculiar way upon the hollow stem of the bamboo. This emits a peculiar sound, which is heard a very long way off. Then the large fire-bell sounded its alarm- peal — a sound which was taken up by other bells, and repeated all over Yedo. These fire-bells are established in all Japanese towns, and the custody of them is regularly organized. The manner in which they are tolled informs the people whether the fire be near or afar off — whether they ought to come to render assistance at once, or hold them- selves in readiness to come on a second warning. On the present occasion all the arrangements seemed to work most admirably. The gates round the Legation were instantly closed and guarded by armed yakoneens. The members of the fire- brigade and those who had duties to perform were allowed to enter, but all others were strictly ex- cluded. In a few minutes the place was full of armed men. Several hundreds were running about in all directions — in the garden, in the rooms, in the passages, and on the roofs of the dif- ferent buildings ; but watchful eyes were upon them everywhere, and not an article of any kind was stolen. The Minister's table was covered with plate ; his drawing-room contained numerous 100 ORGANIZATION OF FIRE-BRIGADE. Chap. YI. articles of interest and value, botli native and foreign ; yet, however tempting these things might have been, not a single article was missing. Alto- gether I had never seen such a perfect system of organization. In China it would have been a most difficult matter to have restrained the mob, who would have seized the opportunity to plunder ; here, however, it seemed perfectly easy, and every one was under the most complete control. Scenes like this must be constantly happening in Yedo. Fires are almost of daily occurrence in some part or other of the city ; and, owing to the houses being principally built of wood, the fires spread with great rapidity. The officers of the Government and the members of the different fire-brigades have constant practice ; and this, no doubt, accounts for their perfect system of organization, which was the admiration of every one on the present occasion. Here, however, our- eulogium must end. The engines which were brought to put out the fire were the most wretched machines I ever saw. A little pond in the garden, in which there was a good supply of water, was not twenty yards from the house ; yet the engine had to be filled with buckets by hand, there being no hose to connect it with the pond. The stream of water it threw out was little larger than that thrown by a hand- syringe, and much less than could be discharged from a good garden engine. A number of men carried water in buckets up ladders to the roof of the building, and emptied it upon the flames ; but Chap. VI. PROCESSION OF THE OFFICERS. 101 here, strange to say, there was no system — no passing the buckets from hand to hand ; every man was doing what was right in his own eyes ; all were giving orders, and each one was making- all the noise he could. Luckily the fire had been discovered early, and was easily extinguished, as the night was calm. Rad it only got a little ahead before the discovery, or had a smart breeze been blowing at the time, the British Legation in Yedo, with the surrounding temples, would, in all probability, have been burned to the ground. The fire was at last extinguished, but, ere this was accomplished, a considerable amount of damage had been done to the buildings. The rooms, papered in Japanese style, and divided from each other by moving panels, were strewed with charred wood, broken tiles, and deluged with water ; the pretty garden was covered with rubbish, and several valuable plants hopelessly ruined. But in the midst of this we were all thankful that the flames had been subdued, and that we had still ample room in other quarters of the Legation. And now the last scene of all took place, and a very sensible one it was. The high officers who had been superintending the fire brigade formed a kind of procession, and, with lanterns, marched up the ladders and over the roof, to judge for them- selves and make sure that the flames were really extinguished. When everything was found in a satisfactory condition, orders were given for the people to leave, and in a few minut’es the crowd 1 02 PRESENTS FROM FOREIGN GOVERNMENTS. Chap. VI. of coolies, firemen, and two-sworded yakoneens, had disappeared as quickly as they came. A short time before I visited Japan the English Government had made the Tycoon a present of a pretty little steam yacht, which I am afraid will be of little use to His Majesty ; and during my visit to Yedo the Government of the United States of America had presented to the Japanese all the newest and most destructive implements of war, and also had sent an officer over to instruct them how to use them. Should other nations in the West feel desirous of making presents, I would strongly recommend them to send out some good fire-engines, which would be of far more value to the Japanese than implements of destruction, which may one day be turned against the givers. Chap. VII. GARDENS. 103 CHAPTER VII. A journey in search of new plants — Japanese College — Residence of Prince Kanga — Dang-o-zaka — Its tea-gardens, fish-ponds, and floral ladies — Nursery-gardens — Country people — Another excursion — Soldiers — Arrive at Su-mae-yah — Country covered with gardens — New plants — Mode of dwarfing — Variegated plants — Ogee, the Richmond of Yedo — Its tea-house — The Ty- coon’s hunting-ground — Fine views — Agricultural productions — A drunken man — Intemperance of the people generally. The capital of Japan is remarkable for the large number of gardens in its suburbs where plants are cultivated for sale. The good people of Yedo, like all highly civilized nations, are fond of flowers, and hence the demand for them is very great. The finest and most extensive of these gardens are situated in the north-eastern suburbs, at places called Dang-o-zaka, Ogee, and Su-mae-yah. As one of my chief objects in coming to Yedo was to examine such places as these, I lost no time in paying them a visit. As the British Legation was situated in the south-west suburb, I had to cross the entire city before I could reach these gardens. From the time occupied in going this distance I estimated the width of the city, in this direction, at about nine or ten miles. Passing in from the western suburb, I went through the “ Official Quarter,” with its 104 RESIDENCE OF PRINCE KANGA. Chap. VII. wide straight streets and town residences of the Daimios or lords and princes of the Empire, which have been already noticed. On a rising ground on my left I observed the palace of the Tycoon. Proceeding onward in an easterly direc- tion, 1 recrossed the moat, and was again amongst the streets and shops of the common people. Here, on a hill-side, in the midst of some tall pines and evergreen oaks, I observed a large building, which, I was informed, was a college for students of Chinese classics. A little further on I passed the palace of the Prince of Kanga, reputed to be the wealthiest and most powerful noble in the empire, and to have no less than 40,000 retainers located in his palaces in the capital, ready to do his bidding, whether that be to dethrone the Tycoon or to take the life of a foreigner. He was reported to be at the head of the conservative party in the empire, and to be unfavourable to foreigners. After passing the residence of Prince Kanga I found myself in the eastern suburb. One long street, with houses on each side of the way, and detached towns here and there, extended two or three miles beyond this. Turning out of this street to the right hand, I passed through some pretty shaded lanes, and in a few minutes more reached the romantic town of Dang-o-zaka. This pretty place is situated in a valley, having wooded hills on either side, with gardens, fish-ponds, and tea-houses in the glen and on the sides of the hills. In the principal tea-gardens the fish-ponds are Chap. VII. DANG-O-ZAKA — ITS TEA-GARDENS. 105 stocked with different kinds of fish ; and I observed a number of ang’lers amusing* themselves fishing, in the usual way, with hooks baited with worms. The most curious objects in this garden were imitation ladies made up out of the flowers of the chrysanthemum. Thousands of flowers were used for this purpose ; and as these artificial beauties smiled upon the visitors out of the little alcoves and summer houses, the effect was oftentimes rather startling. The favourite flowering plum- trees were planted in groups and avenues in all parts of the garden, while little lakes and islands of rockwork added to the general effect. Having patronised this establishment by taking- sundry cups of tea, I intimated to my attendant yakoneens my intention to look out for some gardens of a different kind, in which I could purchase some new plants. But pleasure was the order of the day with them, and they coolly informed me there were no other places worth seeing here, and that we had better go on to the tea-gardens of Ogee. From information I had previously received, I knew they were deceiving me, and therefore proceeded to take a general survey on my own account. When they saw I was determined to look out for myself, they pre- tended to have received some information about other places, and said they were willing to guide me to them. Telling them I was greatly obliged, I desired them to lead the way. A short walk to the top of the hill brought us to a long, straight, 106 NURSERY-GARDENS. Chap. VII. country-looking road, lined with neatly clipped hedges. Here I found a large number of nursery gardens, richly stocked with the ornamental plants of the country. Crowds of people followed us, and, although they were rather noisy, and anxious to see such a strange sight as a foreigner in these out- of-the-way places, they were, upon the whole, par- ticularly civil and easily managed and controlled. As I entered a nursery the gates were quietly closed upon the people, who w r aited patiently until I came out, and then they followed me on to the next. The yakoneens seemed to he greatly respected, or feared it may be, but, at all events, a look, a word, or a movement of the fan, was quite sufficient to preserve the most perfect order. I visited garden after garden in succession. Each w^as crowded with plants, some cultivated in pots and others in the open ground, many of which were entirely new to Europe, and of great interest and value. Every now and then my yakoneens informed me that the garden I happened to be in at the time was the last one in the lane, but I told them goodhumouredly I would go on a little further and satisfy myself. This they could not object to, and, as more gardens w r ere found, they only smiled and said they had been misinformed. My old experience in China was of good service to me here. There is nothing like patience, polite- ness, and good humour, with these Orientals, whether they present themselves as noisy crowds or crafty officials. Chap. YIT. NURSERY-GARDENS. 107 At first the proprietors were not quite sure whether they ought to sell me the plants which I selected. A reference was invariably made to the yakoneens, both upon this point and also as to what sum they should ask. I am afraid I must confess to the impression that these gentry made me pay considerably more than the fair value or “ market price.” As I concluded each purchase, the plants purchased, the price, and the name of the vendor, were carefully written down by one of the officials, and this report of my proceedings was taken home to their superiors. The day was far spent before I had finished the inspection of these interesting gardens, but I w T as greatly pleased with the results. A great number of new shrubs and trees, many of them probably well suited for our English climate, had been purchased. Orders were now given to the dif- ferent nurserymen to bring the plants to the English Legation on the following day, and we parted mutually pleased with our bargains. It was now too late to go to Ogee or Su-mae-yah, so that journey was put off until another day. Mounting our horses, we left the pleasant and romantic lanes of Dang-o-zaka and rode home- wards. In coming out we had passed to the south of the Tycoon’s palace, but in going home a different route was taken — a route which led us along the north side of these buildings. In all my excursions about Yedo with a guard of yakoneens, I have invariably observed that they 108 ANOTHER EXCURSION. Chap. VII. have brought me home by a different road from that by which I went. At first I gave them credit for a desire to show me as much of the city as possible, but I am now inclined to believe that they had orders of this kind from their superiors; and that the object was to prevent the chance of an attack from any one who had seen us going out, and who might lie in wait for us on our return. Be that as it may, the fact is as I have stated. On the following morning the whole of the nurserymen from whom I had purchased plants presented themselves at the British Legation, to deliver the plants and to receive their money — and possibly to pay a small tax to the officials. But if the latter transaction took place, it was done quietly and without a murmur. A day or two after this, with a flask of wine slung over my shoulder, and a small loaf and jar of potted meat in my pocket, I started early in the morning in order to explore the country and gardens about Su-mae-yah and Ogee. The same guard of yakoneens accompanied me, and our road, for a good part of the way, was the same as that by which I went to Dang-o-zaka. The places we now proposed to visit, although in the same direc- tion, are considerably farther off. Passing, there- fore, the scene of my former visit, I rode onwards farther out into the suburbs. The houses gradu- ally began to get more scattered, sometimes fields and trees lined one side of the road, and every- thing showed me that I had fairly left the great Chap. VII. SOLDIERS. 109 city behind me. In one of these country parks I heard some soldiers going through their exercise ; and the music was not unlike that of our own military bands. It was very likely an imitation of something of the kind. The high close paling and dense brushwood prevented me from seeing much, but sometimes I caught a glimpse of the flags and spears of the soldiers. The Daimios are constantly training their soldiers in all the arts of Japanese warfare. On this occasion, when passing near a Daimio’s residence in the city, I heard the clattering of arms, as of men engaged in fencing ; and many times, during my stay in Yedo, I have heard the same sounds. If ever any European nation has the misfortune to go to war with Japan, it will find the Japanese, as soldiers, very much superior to the Chinese. At the same time, as we do not fight with swords only, there is little doubt about the issue of such a contest. Let us hope, however, that such a thing as a war with Japan may be far distant, and that, in this one instance at least, we may have the satisfaction of opening up a country without deluging it with the blood of its people. Park-like scenery, trees and gardens, neatly- clipped hedges, succeeded each other ; and my at- tendant yakoneens at length announced that we had arrived at the village of Su-mae-yah. The whole country here is covered with nursery-gardens. One straight road, more than a mile in length, is lined with them. I have never seen, in any part of the 110 SU-MAE-YAH — GARDENS. Chap. VII. world, sucli a large number of plants cultivated for sale. Each nursery covers three or four acres of land, is nicely kept, and contains thousands of plants, both in pots and in the open ground. As these nurseries are generally much alike in their features, a description of one will give a good idea of them all. On entering the gateway there is a pretty little winding path leading up to the proprietor’s house, which is usually situated near the centre of the garden. On each side of this walk are planted specimens of the hardy ornamental trees and shrubs of the country, many of which are dwarfed or clipped into round table forms. The beautiful little yew ( Taxus cuspidated) which I formerly introduced into Europe from China, occupies a prominent place amongst dwarf shrubs. Then there are the dif- ferent species of Pines, Thujas, Retinosporas, and the beautiful Sciadopitys verticillata, all duly repre- sented. Plants cultivated in pots are usually kept near the house of the nurseryman, or enclosed with a fence of bamboo-work. These are cultivated and arranged much in the same way as we do such things at home. The Japanese gardener has not yet brought glass-houses to his aid for the protec- tion and cultivation of tender plants. Instead of this he uses sheds and rooms fitted with shelves, into which all the tender things are huddled to- gether for shelter during the cold months of winter. Here I observed some South American plants, such Chap. VII. DWARF PLANTS. Ill as cacti, aloes, &c., which have found their way here, although as yet unknown in China — a fact which shows the enterprise of the Japanese in a favourable lig'ht. A pretty species of fuchsia was also observed amongst the other foreigners. In one garden I saw a large number of a species of acorns ■until deep green leaves. These were cultivated in fine square porcelain pots, and in each pot was a little rock of agate, crystal, or other rare stone, many of these representing the famous Fusi-yama, or “ Matchless Mountain ” of Japan. All this little arrangement was shaded from bright sunshine and protected from storms by means of a matting which was stretched overhead. There was nothing else in this garden but the acorus above mentioned, hut of this there must have been several hundred speci- mens. The pretty Nanking square porcelain pots, the masses of deep green foliage, and the quaint form and colouring of the little rocks, produced a novel and striking effect, which one does not meet with every day. In Japan, as in China, dwarf plants are greatly esteemed ; and the art of dwarfing has been brought to a high state of perfection. President Meylan, in the year 1826, saw a box which he describes as only one inch square by three inches high, in which were actually growing and thriving a bamboo, a fir, and a plum-tree, the latter being in full blossom. The price of this portable grove was 1200 Dutch gulden, or about 100/. In the gardens of Su-mae- vali dwarf plants were fairly represented, although 112 ART OF DWARFING TREES. Chap. VII. I did not meet with anything so very small and very expensive as that above mentioned. Pines, junipers, thujas, bamboos, cherry and plum trees, are generally the plants chosen for the purpose of dwarfing. The art of dwarfing trees, as commonly practised both in China and Japan, is in reality very simple and easily understood. It is based upon one of the commonest principles of vegetable physiology. Anything which has a tendency to check or retard the flow of the sap in trees, also prevents, to a cer- tain extent, the formation of wood and leaves. This may be done by grafting, by confining the roots in a small space, by withholding water, by bending the branches, and in a hundred other ways, which all proceed upon the same principle. This prin- ciple is perfectly understood by the Japanese, and they take advantage of it to make nature sub- servient to this particular whim of theirs. They are said to select the smallest seeds from the smallest plants, which I think is not at all unlikely. I have frequently seen Chinese gardeners selecting suckers for this purpose from the plants of their gardens. Stunted varieties were generally chosen, particu- larly if they had the side branches opposite or regular, for much depends upon this ; a one-sided dwarf-tree is of no value in the eyes of the Chinese or Japanese. The main stem was then, in most cases, twisted in a zigzag form, which process checked the flow of the sap, and at the same time encouraged the production of side-branches at those Chap. VII. MODE OF DWARFING. 113 parts of the stem where they were most desired. The pots in which they were planted were narrow and shallow, so that they held but a small quantity of soil compared with the wants of the plants, and no more water was given than was actually neces- sary to keep them alive. When new branches were in the act of formation they were tied down and twisted in various ways ; the points of the leaders and strong-growing ones were generally nipped out, and every means were taken to dis- courage the production of young shoots possessing any degree of vigour. Nature generally struggles against this treatment for a while, until her powers seem to be in a great measure exhausted, when she quietly yields to the power of Art. The artist, however, must be ever on the watch ; for should the roots of his plants get through the pots into the ground, or happen to receive a liberal supply of moisture, or should the young shoots be allowed to grow in their natural position for a time, the vigour of the plant, which has so long been lost, will be restored, and the fairest specimens of Ori- ental dwarfing destroyed. It is a curious fact that when plants, from any cause, become stunted or unhealthy, they almost invariably produce flowers and fruit, and thus endeavour to propagate and perpetuate their kind. This principle is of great value in dwarfing trees. Flowering trees — such, for example, as peaches and plums — produce their blossoms most profusely under the treatment I have described ; and as they expend their energies i 114 VARIEGATED PLANTS. Chap. VII. in this way, they have little inclination to make vigorous growth. The most remarkable feature in the nurseries of Su-mae-yah and Dang-o-zaka is the large number of plants with variegated leaves. It is only a very few years since our taste in Europe led us to take an interest in and to admire those curious freaks of nature called variegated plants. For anything I know to the contrary, the Japanese have been cultivating this taste for a thousand years. The result is that they have in cultivation, in a varie- gated state, almost all the ornamental plants of the country, and many of these are strikingly hand- some. Here is a list of a few to give some idea of the extent and number of these extraordinary productions : — Pines, Junipers, Retinosporas, Podo- carpus, Illiciums, Andromeda japonica, Euryas, Ele- agnus, Pittosporum Tobira , Euonymus (yellow), Aralia, Laurus, Salisburia adiantifolia. I have already said we must look upon the Aucuba japonica of our gardens as only a variegated variety of that species. Then there is a variegated orchid ! a variegated palm ! a variegated camellia ! and even the tea-plant is duly represented in this “happy family ! ” The beautiful Sciadopitys verticillata, which is no doubt “ one of the finest conifers in Asia,” has produced a variety which has golden- striped leaves. It may readily be imagined that I was able to select a great number of new ornamental shrubs and trees which will one day, it is hoped, produce a Chap. VII. OGEE. 115 striking and novel effect upon our English parks and pleasure-grounds. Having settled the prices of the different plants selected, all the particulars were carefully written down by my attendant yakoneens, as on a former occasion, and the vendors were requested to bring my purchases to the British Legation on the following morning. We then took our departure for Ogee. Ogee is the Richmond of Japan, and its cele- brated tea-house is a sort of “ Star and Garter Hotel.” Here the good citizens of Yedo come out for a day’s pleasure and recreation, and certainly it would be difficult to find a spot more lovely or more enjoyable. Our road led us down a little hill, and was lined on each side with pretty suburban resi- dences, gardens, and hedgerows. On approaching the village crowds of people came out to look at the foreigner, although a species of that genus had not been particularly rare of late. Giving some of the boys our horses to hold, we were conducted to the interior of the tea-house, and attended by pretty, good-humoured damsels. A small garden, with a running stream overhung with the branches of trees, green banks, and lovely flowers, was in the rear of the tea-house ; and, taken as a whole, the place was extremely pretty and well worthy of being patronized by the pleasure-seekers of Yedo. Having partaken of the cakes, tea, hard-boiled eggs, and other delicacies which were set before me, I went out for a stroll in the surrounding country. As my yakoneens were busy with their i 2 116 FINE VIEWS. Chap. VII. dinner, I tried to induce them to remain and finish it, telling them I was only going for a short walk, and that I would soon return. This they would not listen to, so I let them have their own way, and we all set out together. My chief object was to get upon the top of a hill in the vicinity, in order to have a good view of the country. A few minutes brought me to the top, which formed a kind of table-land, uncultivated, but having here and there a few groups of lofty trees. This forms the hunting- grounds of his Imperial Majesty the Tycoon. It is here that on certain occasions he watches the flight of the falcon in pursuit of the heron of Japan — a bird held sacred by the Japanese, and rigidly pre- served by the authorities. There is also on this hill an archery-ground for the Imperial soldiers, and a refectory for preparing a repast for his Majesty’s retinue. The view from the top of this eminence was exceedingly fine. To the northward, a highly culti- vated agricultural country lay spread out. It was the period of the rice-harvest, and the fields were now yellow with the ripening grain. The young crops of wheat and barley, already several inches above ground, were of the liveliest green, and contrasted well with the yellow rice-fields. The country was well-wooded, and a little river was seen winding through the valley on its way to the head of the Yedo bay. Taking the place as a whole, his Majesty the Tycoon could scarcely have found a more pleasant hunting-ground. Chap. VII. A DRUNKEN MAN. 117 The day was now far advanced ; indeed, my yakoneens had been hinting some time before this that it was time to return to Yedo. First, they looked to the heavens, and gravely informed me they thought it was going to rain ; and when they saw this did not produce the desired effect, they told me evening was approaching, and that it was dangerous for me to be out after dark. This was no doubt quite true, and during my residence in Yedo I invariably made it a rule to get back to the Legation as soon after nightfall as possible. On the present occasion I intimated to them that I was now quite ready to return to the city, and we were soon on our way. On our way back, and just when we were opposite to the residence of the Prince of Kanga — the Daimio whom I have already men- tioned as unfavourable to foreigners — a drunken man was monopolizing the road, who, I was afraid, might give us some trouble. He had a long wooden pole in his hands, and was endea- vouring to strike all who came in his path. One of my betos, or grooms, was struck by him ; but as the poor wretch could scarcely stand, it was very easy to get out of his way. He had no idea that a foreigner was behind him ; and I shall never forget the peculiar wild and drunken stare he gave me when he observed me. Under the cir- cumstances I judged it prudent to leave him in his trance of astonishment, and trotted onwards. 0 Intemperance in the use of ardent spirits is one 118 INTEMPERANCE OF THE PEOPLE. Chap. .VII. of the vices of the Japanese. In this respect, if we can trust Thunberg, the Swedish physician, they must have degenerated sadly during* the last hundred years. Amongst a long catalogue of their virtues, Thunberg says, they have “ no play or coffee-houses, no taverns nor alehouses, and consequently no consumption of coffee, chocolate, brandy, wine, or punch ; no privileged soil, no waste lands, and not a single meadow ; no national debt, no paper currency, no course of exchange, and no bankers (!).” It may have been so in Tliun- berg’s time, although I confess to some doubts upon the subject ; but it will be seen, from what came under my own observation, that things are very different now. In these days it is a common saying that “ all Yedo gets drunk after sunset! ” This is, of course, an exaggeration ; hut, no doubt, drunkenness pre- vails to a degree happily unknown in other countries at the present day. Even before the evening closes in, the faces of those one meets in the streets are suspiciously red, showing plainly enough that saJci has been imbibed pretty freely. Nor is it in the capital city only that such a state of things exists. We learn from Dr. Pompe, the Dutch physician at Nagasaki, that one-half of the whole adult population are more or less in- ebriated with saki by nine o'clock every evening ! When I state that a great proportion of these drunken people in the capital are armed with two rather sharp swords, and that in this condition they* Chap. VII. INTEMPERANCE OF THE PEOPLE. 119 are often ill-natured and quarrelsome, it will be readily seen that the city of Yedo is not a very safe place for foreigners to be about in after nightfall. The remainder of our ride home from Ogee was without any incident worth relating, and I arrived at the house of the English Minister, well pleased with the successful issue of the day’s excursion. On various occasions during my stay in Yedo I repeated my visits to Dang-o-zaka, Su-mae-yah, and Ogee, and was thus enabled to add to my collections a very large number of the ornamental trees and shrubs of Japan. Japanese Heads, showing the mode of dressing the hair. 1. Back of head before the hair is tied np. 2. Second process. 3. Full dress. 2 4 120 SINGING BIRDS. Chap. YIII. CHAPTER VIII. Residence of the Abb<$ Girard — Singing-birds — Commercial quarter of Yedo — Shops — Paper, and the uses to which it is applied — Articles of food — Monkeys eaten — Fire-proof buildings — Nipon Bas — Ah-sax-saw — Its bazaars, temples, and tea-gardens — Fine chrysanthemums — Tea-plant — The Yedo river — The city oppo- site Yedo — Temple of Eco-ying — Its origin — Crowds of people — Curious scene in the temple — Earthquakes — Their frequency — How they are dreaded by the natives — Straw shoes of men and horses. On the 23rd of November I had an appointment with the Abbe Girard, who was formerly a mis- sionary in Loochoo, and was now interpreter to M. de Bellecourt, the French Consul-General, or Charge d' Affaires, in Japan. The Abbe, who was well acquainted with Yedo, was good enough to offer to take me to some places of interest which I had not yet seen. I found him residing in a little temple near the French Legation, and well guarded with yakoneens. He had in his house some rare specimens of Japanese singing-birds, particularly one known to foreigners as the Japanese nightingale. This is a curious bird, if the stories which are told about its habits are true. It is said to inhabit the recesses of dark woods, and to shun the light of day. Hence in a domestic state it is usually kept in comparative darkness, a Chap. VIII. COMMERCIAL QUARTER OF YE DO. 121 wooden box being' dropped over its cage. This box has a small paper window, in order to admit a little subdued light. In this condition it sings charmingly, and has a full, clear, ringing note, wonderfully loud for so small a bird. The Japan- ese name of this little songster is Ogo-yezu. After breakfast the Abbe and I mounted our horses, and, accompanied by our two sets of yako- neens, set out to visit the temple of Ah-sax-saw, which lies on the eastern or south-eastern side of Yedo. Our route led us, not only through a portion of the “ official quarter,” which I had frequently visited, but also through the main streets of the trading part of the city. I confess I was rather disappointed. The streets were much wider and cleaner than those of the Chinese towns ; but the contents of the shops appeared to be of little value. One must, however, bear in mind that Yedo is not a manufacturing or trading town in the usual sense in which the term is used. Hence, perhaps, I ought to have expected to see only the necessaries, or perhaps a few of the luxu- ries of life, exhibited in the shops here. Silk and cotton shops were numerous, and, if they did not obtain custom, it was not for want of the use of means. Men and bovs were stationed in front of «/ the doors trying all their arts to induce the passers- by to go in and spend their money. Lacquer-ware, bronzes, and porcelain were exhibited in abun- dance, as were also umbrellas, pipes, toys, and paper made up into every conceivable article. 122 PAPER, ITS USES. Chap. VIII. I may here mention in passing that Japanese paper is made chiefly out of the bark of the paper mulberry ( Broussonetia papyrifera). It is parti- cularly well suited for decorative purposes, such as the papering of rooms. It has a glossy, silky, and comfortable appearance, and many of the patterns are extremely chaste and pretty. The fan pattern, which looked as if fans had been thrown all over the surface, used to be much admired by the foreign residents. For some reason it is made in very small sheets, which would render it rather inconvenient to our paper-hangers. This, however, is no detriment in Japan, where labour is cheap. Japanese oil-paper is of a very superior quality, and is used for a variety of purposes. For a very small sum one can be clothed in a “Mackintosh” coat and trowsers capable of keeping out any amount of rain. As a wrapper to protect silk goods and other valuable fabrics from wet and damp it is invaluable, and owing to its great strength it is often used instead of a tin or lead casing. Despatch-boxes, looking like leather, and very hard and durable, are also made of paper, and so are letter-bags, purses, cigar-cases, umbrellas, and many other articles in daily use. In addition to those purposes to which paper is applied in western countries, in Japan it is used for windows instead of glass, for the partitions of rooms instead of lath and plaster, for fans and fan-cases, for twine, and in a variety of other ways. Chap. VIII. ARTICLES OF FOOD. 123 Articles used as food were displayed in abun- dance in all the streets of the commercial quarter. The vegetables and fruits of the country, such as I have named elsewhere, w r ere in profusion every- where, and apparently cheap. The bay supplies the good people of Yedo with excellent fish, and consequently the fishmonger was duly represented amongst the shopkeepers, where his wares could be purchased either dead or alive, fresh or salted. Butchers’ shops were also observed as we rode along, showing that the Japanese do not live on vege- tables and fish only. It is true that in these shops we did not observe any beef, for the Japanese do not kill their bullocks and eat them as we do ; and, as the sheep is not found in the country, we, of course, could not see any mutton. Yenison, how-* ever, was common, and monkeys were observed in several of the shops. I shall never forget the impression produced upon me when I saw the latter hanging up in front of a butcher’s door. They were skinned, and had a most uncomfortable resemblance to the members of the human family. I dare say the Japanese consider the flesh of the monkey very savoury ; but there is no accounting for prejudices and tastes, and I must confess that I must have been very hungry indeed before I could have dined off these human-looking monkeys. In our ride through the town we remarked a large number of fire-proof houses, or godowns, for the protection of money or valuable goods in case of fire. These have thick walls of mud and stone, 124 NIPON-BAS — AH-SAX-SAW. Chap. YIII. and are most useful in a country like this, where fires occur so frequently. Wooden watch-towers were also numerous in all parts of the city. These are posts of observation, from which a fire can be observed at a distance and an alarm given. Buckets of water were seen in every street, and frequently on the tops of the houses ; and a kind of fire-police are continually on the watch by night and by day, ready to give instant notice and assistance. After riding in an easterly direction for some time, we arrived at the celebrated Nipon-Bas , or “ Bridge of Japan.” This crosses a canal which is fed by a river a little to the south of the bridge, and which is apparently connected with the moat which encircles the official quarter and the palace of the Tycoon. The bridge is a strong wooden structure resting on piles, and riveted together with massive clamps of iron. To a foreign eye there is nothing very remarkable in its appear- ance ; but by the Japanese it is considered one of the wonders of Yedo. From this bridge the dis- tances to all parts of the empire are measured in ri ; and hence it is usual to say, such a place is so many ri distant — not from Yedo, but — from Nipon- Bas. A ri is about equal to two and a half English miles. A ride of about two hours brought us to Ali-sax- saw. Its massive temple was seen looming at the further end of a broad avenue. An ornamental arch, or gateway, was thrown across the avenue, BRIDGE SCENE IN YEDO (FROM A NATIVE SKETCH Chap. VIII. AH-SAX-SAW— THE TEMPLES. 125 which had a very good effect ; a huge belfry stood on one side ; and a number of large trees, such as pines and Salisburia adiantifolia, surrounded the temple. Each side of the avenue was lined with shops and stalls, open in front like a bazaar, in which all sorts of Japanese things were exposed for sale. Toys of all kinds, such as humming-tops, squeaking-dolls with very large heads, puzzles, and pictures were numerous, and apparently in great demand. Looking-glasses, tobacco-pipes, common lacquer-ware, porcelain, and such like articles, were duly represented. Had the whole been covered over with glass, it would have been not unlike the Lowther Arcade in London. Crowds of people followed us as we entered the avenue, who had evidently seen little of Europeans before ; but although somewhat noisy, they treated us with the most perfect civility and respect. On our arrival at the head of the avenue, we found ourselves in front of the huge temple, and ascended its massive steps. Its wide doors stood open ; candles were burning on the altars, and priests were engaged in their devotions. It was the old story over again — unmeaning sounds, beating of drums, tinkling of bells, &c., which I had so often heard when a guest in the Buddhist temples of China. The temple has numerous tea-houses attached to it for the accommodation of visitors and devo- tees. Adjoining them are many pretty gardens with fish-ponds, ornamental bridges, artificial rock- 126 FINE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Chap. VIII. work, and avenues of plum and cherry trees, which seem the favourite ones at all the tea-houses and temples of Japan. This place is most famed in the vicinity of Yedo for the variety and beauty of its chrysanthemums. At the time of our visit they were in full bloom, and most certainly would have delighted the eyes of our English florists had they found themselves so far away from Hammersmith, the Temple, or Stoke Newington. I procured some extraordinary varieties, most peculiar in form and in colouring, and quite distinct from any of the kinds at present known in Europe. One had petals like long thick hairs, of a red colour, but tipped with yellow, looking like the fringe of a shawl or curtain ; another had broad white petals striped with red like a carnation or camellia ; while others were remarkable for their great size and brilliant colour- ing. If I can succeed in introducing these varie- ties into Europe, they may create as great a change amongst chrysanthemums as my old protegee the modest “ Chusan daisy ” did when she became the parent of the present race of jfompones.* In order to make sure of getting the finest varieties, I determined to take suckers from those in bloom at the time of my visit, and further to take these same suckers home under my own care. Having settled the price with some difficulty, I then intimated to the proprietor my wish that he should dig them up forthwith. To this he made * Most of them have arrived safely in England. Chap. VIII. THE TEA-PLANT. 127 many objections, not on bis own account, but on mine. “ They would be inconvenient for me to carry,” lie said, and “ he was quite willing to dig them up next morning and bring them hhnself to the Legation.” I do not know that the man wanted to deceive me by bringing different and inferior kinds to those I had purchased, but I had been taken in once or twice in this way in China, and had determined not to be taken in again. I therefore expressed my best thanks for his good intentions towards me, but got him to let me have the suckers, to take home under my own charge. The Japanese gardener understands the art of chrysanthemum culture rather better than we do, and produces blooms of wonderful size. This is done by great care, good soil, and by allowing only one or two blooms to be perfected at the end of a shoot. The tea-plant was common in these gardens, and was frequently used as an edging for the walks. In this position it was kept clipped, and had a pretty and novel appearance. In other places in this district I observed it cultivated rather exten- sively for the sake of its leaves. There is also in the gardens of Ah-sax-saw a collection of living birds and other animals for the amusement of visitors who may happen to be fond of this branch of natural history. I observed green pigeons, speckled crows, a fine large eagle, gold and silver 128 THE YEDO RIVER. Chap. VIII. pheasants, mandarin ducks, rabbits, and squirrels amongst the collection. Altogether, there are many things here calculated to amuse and instruct the good people of Yedo when they come out for a holiday ; and when the plum and cherry trees are in blossom, these gardens must be very enjoy- able. Leaving Ah-sax-saw, with its temples, tea- gardens, and chrysanthemums, we returned up the avenue by which we came, and were again followed by crowds of wondering natives. Taking now a southerly direction, we came upon a broad river which flows from the eastward, and empties itself into the bay of Yedo. It is about as large as the Thames at Richmond or Kew. We crossed it by a wooden bridge, and then entered that part of the town called by the Japanese Moo-co-gee-me, or “ island opposite to Yedo.” This is, in fact, the Southwark or Borough of the capital. It is large and densely populated ; the streets ran mostly at right angles with each other ; and it is intersected by a number of wide canals. Riding along the banks of the river, we soon found ourselves nearly clear of houses and in the country. As we looked back over the river, the city of Yedo, with its temples, watch-towers, and undulating wooded hills, lay spread out before us, and formed a picture of striking beauty. Nearly all the land where we were was one vast garden ; or to speak more correctly, it was covered with tea- Chap. VIII. YEDO EMBANKMENT. L2IJ gardens and nurseries. There were hedges of single camellias ( C . sasanqua), white and red, and China roses, all in full bloom, although it was now late in November. Many evergreen trees were there, clipped into fanciful shapes ; and the in- dispensable flowering plums and cherries were in great abundance, although now leafless and having- put on their wintry garb. We paid a visit to a number of tea-houses and gardens ; and from the way in which they were arranged and planned, no doubt they are patro- nized by thousands during the spring and summer seasons, when picnic-loving and pleasure-seeking Yedoites go out to enjoy themselves. Everywhere we were politely received, and tea pressed upon us by the proprietors of the gardens. W e were now some ten or twelve miles from the foreign Legations, and declining day warned us to hasten our return. On our way back we followed for some distance the course of the river. There is a fine broad embankment all the way along the left bank, which we could not help contrasting with that which is now being formed at Pimlico and Chelsea. But the Yedo embankment has probably been in existence for many generations — a monument of the foresight and enterprise of this extraordinary people. In this part of Yedo there is a celebrated Budd- hist temple named Eco-ying , which was erected to the memory of 180,000 human beings who lost their lives in one night about 150 years ago. As K 130 TEMPLE OE ECO-YING. Chap. VIII. the story runs, on that night occurred one of those fearful earthquakes which so heavily afflict this beautiful country. Houses were thrown down in all directions, and hundreds were buried alive in the ruins ; conflagrations naturally followed, and this city of wooden houses was almost destroyed. Our attendant yakoneens kindly offered to take us to this celebrated temple, which was only a very little out of our way on our route homewards. As we approached it I observed in front a statue of Buddha, and some upright stones carved with an inscription which told the visitor of the fearful catastrophe and where the victims were buried. When we ascended the stone steps in front of the temple, a noisy crowd followed and surrounded us ; we being now in a part of the town densely popu- lated, and seldom if ever visited by foreigners. In an instant we had the yakoneens of the district in addition to our own by our sides, in order to pro- tect us from insult or injury. Although noisy enough in all conscience, this crowd of people were good-humoured, and, although naturally anxious to look upon such strange beings as we were con- sidered to be, they were perfectly civil, making way for us in any direction we wished to go. On entering the temple a curious scene was pre- sented to our eyes. Candles were burning dimly on the altars, and incense filled the murky atmos- phere with a heavy perfume. An old reverend- looking man occupied a kind of pulpit, and was engaged in a sermon or address to a number of Chap. VIII. EARTHQUAKES. 131 young men, women, and children. This reverend gentleman and his youthful congregation had a part of the temple to themselves — a sort of chapel in fact, which was separated from the rest of the building by a network of string ; not strong cer- tainly, but perfectly sufficient for the purpose in this orderly country. On our entrance, followed by a noisy crowd, the preacher continued his dis- course apparently as if he was perfectly unconscious of our presence. It was very different, however, with the members of his congregation : all of them transferred their attention from the preacher to us ; turning round, they fixed their eyes upon us, and commenced laughing and chatting in a manner which, if complimentary to us, certainly was not so to their reverend instructor. Xot willing to annoy the old man, we did not prolong our visit in the temple, but left him to finish his discourse, and liisL youthful audience to profit by his teaching. Earthquakes such as that which this temple and its monuments were designed to commemorate are fortunately rare even in Japan. In the days when Taiko-sama was king (about the year 1595), we are told that an earthquake of frightful violence took place. “ The sea rose to an extraordinary height, especially in the strait between Nipon and Sikok, attended with terrible destruction of life and property.” In 1793 another terrible earth- quake took place. “ The summit of a high moun- tain in the province of Fisen, west of Simbara, sunk entirely down. Boiling water rushed in torrents k 2 132 EARTHQUAKES. Chap. VIII. from all parts of the cavity, and a vapour like a thick smoke covered the mountain. Three weeks after, there was an eruption from a crater about half a league from the summit. The boiling lava flowed down in streams, and for many days the surrounding country was in flames. A month after, the whole island of Kiu-siu was shaken by an earthquake, felt principally, however, in the neigh- bourhood of Simbara. It reduced that part of the province of Figo opposite to Simbara to a deplorable condition ; and even altered the whole line of coast, sinking many vessels which lay in the harbours.” The last visitation of any great violence occurred in 1854. In Yedo alone it is supposed that 200,000 human beings were destroyed at this time, partly by the falling buildings and partly by fires, which were raging in all parts of the city, occasioned by the earthquake. The little town of Simoda, a few miles outside of Yedo bay, was laid in ruins at this time, and the Russian frigate ‘ Diana ’ was wrecked in the harbour. During my residence in Japan, earthquakes, although not of a violent character, were of fre- quent occurrence, and generally took place during the night. The sound of creaking timbers used to remind me of my experience in the cabin of a small steamer labouring in a heavy sea during or after a gale of wind. Then my bed used to move about in a most uneasy manner, as if some strong power was endeavouring to carry it bodily away, but, changing its mind, had set it down again. Bishop Chap. VIII. EARTHQUAKES. 133 Smith, in his ‘ Ten Weeks in Japan,’ gives an amusing account of his first experience in this way. He says, “ At 4 a.m. on the morning following my first night of sleeping in the Legation, I was suddenly awoke by a loud rattling noise at my door, and a forcible lifting up of my bed, and its heavy descent with a violent jerk to the ground. I shouted again and again to no purpose, warning the supposed intruder from my room, and making it perceptible that I was on the alert. A continued shaking of the bed, and a rumbling noise through- out the building, at first suggested the suspicion that our native guards were right, and that I had to prepare myself for the irruption of some invader. The foe, however, came from a quarter which I little suspected. An English voice in a distant apartment exclaimed, ‘ An earthquake ! ’ The sign of panic amongst the native population was soon audible. The priests rushed to the temples and commenced reciting their Buddhist chants. The monks began their ringing of bells, and beating of drums and gongs at the neighbouring shrines. The Japanese domestics fled into the open air, and for the moment all was confusion and dis- may.” The natives of the country seem to dread these earthquakes even more than the foreigners who are now located amongst them. An intelligent Japanese, who spoke English well, expressed his fears that his country would one day disappear from the surface of the globe, and sink down under the 134 EARTHQUAKES. Chap. YIIT. waves of the ocean. He had been told that an island out at sea, once fair and verdant, covered with people and houses and trees, was now nowhere visible, and that ships sailed over the spot where it once was. Earthquakes are so common in Japan that mete- orologists have a division in their tables in order to mark their occurrence. I)r. Hepburn, to whom I am indebted for a table showing- the temperature of Kanagawa, and which I shall have occasion to mention hereafter, has one of these columns in his table. By a reference to it, it will be found that from the 1st of November, 1859, to the 31st of October, 1860, no less than twenty-eight shocks had been felt. In November, 1861, four are marked, and in February, 1861, there are the same number. This will give some idea of the fre- quency of the shocks, and of the volcanic nature of the country. 'When we consider how often these earthquakes happen, and how awfully violent they sometimes are, it is scarcely to be wondered at if the natives of the country view them with feelings of awe and dread, and express their fears that some day their fair and beautiful land may disappear in the waters of the sea. As the Temple of Eco-ying is situated in a part of the town rarely visited by foreigners, crowds of people came to see us take our departure. The police of the district escorted us beyond their boundary, and we were soon out of the crowd and trotting onwards through the principal streets of Chap. VIII. STRAW SHOES. 135 the town. On the way home I observed that our road was strewed with straw shoes which had been worn by men and horses. All the horses wear shoes of straw, which, when worn out, are replaced by others, the old ones being* left on the road where they are cast off. 136 INCREASE OF COLLECTIONS. Chap. IX. CHAPTER IX. Leave Yedo — Mendicant nuns — Place of execution — Its appearance in the days of Kasmpfer — Visit to a famous temple — Field crops by the way — Begging priests — Pear-trees — Holy water — Temple of Tetstze — Its priests and devotees — Inn of “ Ten Thousand Cen- turies” — Kind ' reception — Waiting-maids and refreshments — Scenes on the highway — Relieved from my yakoneen guard — New plants added to my collections — Names of the most valuable — Ward’s cases, their value — Plants shipped for China — Devout wishes for their prosperous voyage. While engaged in making observations on the city of Yedo and the country around it, I had been daily adding to my collections of new trees and shrubs. Now and then a bit of ancient lacquer- ware, or a good bronze, took my fancy, and was carefully put by. The gardens I have already described were visited frequently, and each time something: new was discovered and brought awav. Mr. J. G. Yeitch, the son of one of our London nurserymen, had also been in Yedo, endeavouring to procure new plants for his father, and conse- quently our wants in this way were generally known amongst the people. Almost every morn- ing, during my stay at the Legation, collections of plants were brought for sale, and it was seldom that I did not find something amongst them of an Chap. IX. MENDICANT NUNS. 187 ornamental or useful character that was new to our English gardens. This, however, could not last for ever ; and the time came when I had apparently exhausted the novelties in the capital of Japan. Baskets were now procured, in which the plants were carefully packed and sent down by boat to Yokohama, where Ward’s cases were being made, in which they were to be planted and sent home to England. On the 28th of November I left the hospitable quarters of the English minister, on my return to Kanagawa. I returned by the way I came — along the Tokaido, or great highway of Japan. Again we passed through the scenes I have already de- scribed : beggars on the wayside, mendicant priests, Bikuni or begging nuns, travelling musicians, coolies carrying manure as in China, lumbering carts * and pack-horses, and travellers of all ranks, were met and passed on the road. Here are some Bikuni, or mendicant nuns, sketched on the spot by my friend Dr. Dickson. Kaempfer gives us the following description of this religious order : — “ They live under the pro- tection of the nunneries at Kamakura f and M iaco, to which they pay a certain sum every year, of what they get by begging, as an acknowledgment of their authority. They are, in my opinion, much the handsomest girls we saw in Japan. The * Carts are used extensively all over the city and suburbs of Yedo, but are not met with on country roads. t Kamakura. See Chap. XIV. 138 MENDICANT NUNS. Chap. IX. daughters of poor parents, if they be handsome and agreeable, apply for and easily obtain this privi- lege of begging in the habit of nuns, knowing that beauty is one of the most persuasive inducements to generosity. The Jctmabo , or begging mountain priests, frequently incorporate their own daughters with this religious order, and take their wives from among these Bikuni. Some of them have been bred up as courtezans, and, having served their time, buy the privilege of entering into this religious order, therein to spend the remainder of their youth and beauty. They live two or three together, and make an excursion every day a few miles from their Chap. IX. PLACE OF EXECUTION. 139 dwelling-house. They particularly watch people of fashion, wdio travel in norimons, or in kangos, or on horseback. As soon as they perceive somebody coming they draw near and address themselves, not all together, but singly, every one accosting a gen- tleman by herself, and singing a rural song ; and if he proves very liberal and charitable, she will keep him company and divert him for hours. . . . They wear a large hat to cover their faces, which are often painted, and to shelter themselves from the heat of the sun.” A number of shops, established for the sale of sea-shells, were observed on the road-side, but they did not contain many species of interest. Dried fruits for sale w T ere numerous and plentiful, such as oranges, pears, gingko-nuts ( Salisburia adianti- folia), capsicums, chesnuts, and acorns. The fruit of Gardenia radicans is used here as a yellow dye, in the same w r ay as in China. Amongst vegetables I noticed carrots, onions, turnips, lily- roots, ginger, gobbo ( Arctium gobbd), nelumbium- roots, Scirpus tuberosus, arums, and yams. Fish of excellent quality w T as exposed for sale in large quantities. A little way out of Sinagawa my yakoneens pointed out the place wdiere criminals are executed. It is an uninviting-looking piece of ground close by the highway. I find that Kaempfer notices the same spot as observed by the Dutch embassy up- wards of two hundred years ago. Near to Sina- gawa they passed “ a place of public execution, 140 BUDDHIST TEMPLE. Chap. IX. offering a show of human heads and bodies, some half putrefied and others half devoured — dogs, ravens, crows, and other ravenous beasts and birds,- uniting to satisfy their appetites on these miserable remains.” On the present occasion I did not notice any of these revolting sights, and it is to he hoped that the Japanese have, like ourselves, become less addicted to judicial bloodshedding than they were at the time of Kannpfer’s visit. It will be remem- bered that such exhibitions were not uncommon amongst Western nations at a later period even than that alluded to. When we had crossed the river Loga we put up our horses at the inn of “ Ten Thousand Centuries,” and proceeded on foot to visit a famous Buddhist temple situated about a mile and a half from the ferry. Our road led us through fields and gardens, all in a high state of cultivation. Bice appeared to be the staple summer crop of the low land of this district. Many gardens of pear-trees were also seen on the road-side. The branches of these trees were trained horizontally when about five or six feet from the ground, sometimes singly in the shape of a round table, or in groups in the form of an arbour. The branches are supported by a rude trelliswork of wood. The pear of the district is a pretty round brown kind, good to look upon, but only fit for kitchen use. There are no fine melting pears in Japan ; at least none came under my notice during my stay in the country. On the roadside there were many little shops in which tea Chai>. IX. BUDDHIST TEMPLE. 141 and dried fruits were exposed to tempt the weary pilgrim on his way to worship at the temple. Beg'ging priests were also passed, ready to bestow prayers and blessings on the heads of those who gave them alms. As we approached the sacred building, one of my yakoneens ran before to announce our arrival. On entering the main gateway there was a tank of holy water on our right hand. Every devotee, on entering, visits the holy well, and sprinkles himself with water before he enters the temple. For this privilege he pays a small sum, the amount expected being in accordance with the means of the giver. In most cases the poor give only a few cash of the country, about the value of a farthing of our money. My attendant yakoneens did not fail to perform the ceremony like good Buddhists, after which we ascended the broad flight of steps which led up to the main hall of the temple. Many native visitors came in while we were there, and each one, as he reached the door of the edifice, was observed to bow low before its altars, and to mutter some prayers. Inside there were a number of priests of the Buddhist faith, who had evidently an eye to the good things of this world, and who were busily engaged in selling books and pictures connected with the temple to the ignorant and superstitious who came to worship at its altars. The temple itself appeared to be a strong and massive structure. Huge paper lanterns were hanging from the roof, and a few Buddhist deities were observed on the 14 ‘2 RECEPTION AT THE INN. Chap. IX. altars. Otherwise it was not remarkable, and was far inferior to the chief temples commonly met with in China. When we got back to the inn of “ Ten Thousand Centuries ” a number of the waiting-maids of the place came running out to welcome us with the usual “ Ohio,” or “ Good morning ; how do you do ? ” of the Japanese. I know that the main object of all this excessive civility is to bring custom to the establishment, and sundry itzeebus* out of the pockets of the traveller ; but after all, there is much gratification in a kind reception, and it is not worth while to look too closely into the motives of those who give it. In the present instance we had had a long walk over a dry hard road, the sun had been hot, and we were glad to accept the invitation given to us by the pretty damsels to enter the inn and refresh ourselves after our journey. The same scene was now exhibited as I have already described at the “ Mansion of Plum-trees.” A low square table was placed before me, covered with different kinds of sweet cakes, dried fruits, and cups of tea. The young girls of the tea-house, kneeling in front and on each side of me, poured out my tea, and begged me to eat of the cakes and fruits, while one of them busied herself in taking the shells off some hard-boiled eggs, dipping them in salt, and putting them to my mouth. Surely all this was enough to satisfy and refresh the most weary traveller, and to send him on his way rejoicing. * A silver coin of Japan, worth about eighteeupcnce. Chap. IX. SCENES ON THE HIGHWAY. 143 But the best of friends must part at last, so I was obliged to bid adieu to mine host and Ins fair waiting-maids of the “ Ten Thousand Centuries,” and pursue my way to Kanagawa. Nothing par- ticularly worthy of notice presented itself during the remainder of my journey. The same motley groups and queer-looking travellers were met and passed on the highway ; dogs barked, and children ran out of the houses to look at the foreigner, and to cry out, as loudly as their little lungs would Nursery Maids. permit, “ Anato, Ohio.” The number of little girls, each having a child tied on her back, was one of the most amusing sights during our progress. As these ran hobbling along, and the little heads of 144 DEPARTURE OF THE GUARD. Chap. IX. the children bobbed about, in danger apparently of being shaken off, one could not help laughing. On reaching the temple in Kanagawa, in which my quarters were, my yakoneen guard informed me that their presence was no longer necessary, and I was free again to roam about by myself in any direction I pleased. I must confess that, however highly honoured I had felt during my visit to Yedo, by having a mounted armed guard attending me wherever I went, yet the departure of the yako- neens was a decided relief, and greatly did I enjoy a return to my former lowly estate. Mr. M‘ Donald, of Her Majesty’s Legation in Yedo, from whom I had received much kindness and assistance, had been good enough to forward my collection of plants in boats to Kanagawa, and these arrived in safety. My guide Tomi had been employed during my absence in making collections of seeds and plants ; hut I am hound to confess that, according to the accounts I received of his pro- ceedings during my absence, it appeared his fa- vourite saki had had more attractions for him than natural history. As I had now secured living specimens and seeds of all the ornamental trees and shrubs of this part of Japan which I was likely to meet with at this season of the year, the whole were removed across the bay to Yokuhama, and placed for safety in Dr. Hall’s garden, until Ward’s cases were ready for their reception. The collection which had been got together at this time was a most remarkable one. Never at Chap. JX. NEW PLANTS OBTAINED. 145 any one time had I met with so many really fine plants, and they acquired additional value from the fact that a great portion of them were likely to prove suitable to our English climate. Amongst conifers there was the beautiful parasol fir ( Scia - dopitys verticellata), Thujopsis dolabrata , Retinospora obtusa and R. pisifera , Nageia ovata , several new pines and cypresses, and varieties of almost all these species having variegated leaves. Amongst other shrubs there was a charming species of Eurya, having broad camellia-looking leaves, beautifully marked with white, orange, and rose colours ; a pretty variegated Daphne ; several species of privets, yews, hollies, box, and ferns. In addition to these there were two or three new spe- cies of Skimmia — shrubs which bear sweet-scented flowers, and become covered with red berries, like the holly, during winter and spring ; a palm with variegated leaves, a noble species of oak, some new AYeigelas, and a number of curious chry- santhemums. This list of beautiful trees and shrubs, all new to English gardens, may appear a long one, yet I must add to it several representatives of other two genera which are particularly worthy of notice. The first is a shrub or small tree called Osmanthus aquifolius. This genus is closely allied to the olive ; it produces sweet-scented white flowers, and has dark-green prickly leaves like the holly. Curiously enough, the leaves on the upper branches and shoots of the Osmanthus are produced without L 146 THE AUCUBA. Chap. IX. spines, exactly as we see on old liolly-trees. All the species of Osmanthus have variegated varieties in Japan, many of which are very beautiful objects for garden decoration. The other genus to which I would call attention is the well-known Aucuba. In Europe we know only the variegated variety of Aucuba japonica, which is one of the most useful of our evergreens, inasmuch as it is perfectly hardy in our climate, and flourishes even in the smoke of large towns where our indigenous shrubs refuse to live. But in the shaded woods near the capital of Japan I met with the true species of Aucuba japonica, of which the variegated one of our gardens is, no doubt, only a variety. This species has beautiful shining leaves of the brightest green, and becomes covered, during the winter and spring months, with bunches of red berries, which give it a pretty appearance. In fact, the Aucuba of the woods near Yedo is the “ Holly of Japan.” I frequently met with hedges formed of this plant, which were very ornamental indeed. In the woods there are numerous varieties of both sexes, some of which show the faintest traces of variegation, while others are nearly as much marked as the Aucubas found in our English gardens. In addition to the Aucubas found in a wild state, I had, in this col- lection, several garden varieties, with distinct and beautiful variegation, and the male plant of our common garden species, to which I have alluded in an earlier chapter, the introduction of which is Chap. IX. DIFFICULTY OF TRANSPORTING PLANTS. 147 likely to add mucli to the beauty and interest of that useful shrub, inasmuch as we may now expect to have it covered, during winter and spring, with a profusion of crimson berries. Many other species of interest might he named in the collection which I had now got together, hut the above will suffice to show how fruitful the field for selection had been in and near the capital of Japan. From the list which I have given, no one will be surprised when he hears others tell of the lovely sylvan scenery of the Japanese islands. I have already endeavoured to give a faint idea of such scenery ; and it was now my intention to transfer to Europe and America examples of those trees and shrubs which produce such charming effects in the Japanese landscapes. But the latter part of the business was no easy matter. To go from England to Japan was easy enough ; to wander amongst those romantic valleys and undulating hills was pleasure unalloyed ; to ransack the capital itself, although attended by an armed guard, was far from disagreeable ; and to get together such a noble collection as I have just been describing was the most agreeable of all. The difficulty — the great difficulty — was to trans- port living plants from Yedo to the Thames, over stormy seas, for a distance of some 16,000 miles. But, thanks to my old friend Mr. Ward, even this difficulty can now be overcome by means of the well-known glass cases which bear his name. Ward’s cases have been the means of enriching L 2 148 WARD’S CASES. Chap. IX. our parks and gardens with many beautiful exotics, which, hut for this admirable invention, would never have been seen beyond those countries to which they are indigenous. In a foreign country, however, even Ward’s cases cannot be made without some difficulty. The carpenter who contracted to make the frame- work of the cases would have nothing to do with the glazing, because he did not understand it. A Dutch carpenter, residing in Yokuliama, under- took to do the glazing, but unfortunately broke his diamond and could not procure another to cut the glass ! Luckily, however, these difficulties were got over at last, and a sufficient number of cases were got ready to enable me to carry the collection on to China. The steam-ship ‘ England,’ Captain Dundas, being about to return to Shanghae, I availed myself of the opportunity to go over to that port with my collections, in order to ship them for England, there being as yet no means of send- ing them direct from Japan. Mr. Yeitch had also put his plants on board the same vessel, so that the whole of the poop was lined with glass cases crammed full of the natural productions of Japan. Never before had such an interesting and valuable collection of plants occupied the deck of any vessel, and most devoutly did we hope that our beloved plants might be favoured with fair winds and smooth seas, and with as little salt water as possible — a mixture to which they are Dot at all partial, and which sadly disagrees with their constitutions Chap. X. ADIEU TO YOKUHAMA. 149 CHAPTER X. Adieu to Yokuhama — Views of Mount Fusi — The Kino Channel and Inland Sea — Presents for the Queen — The port of Hiogo and town of Osaca — .Important marts for trade — Good anchorage — Crowds of boats — Islands — Charming scenery — Daimios’ castles — Towns and villages — Gorgeous sunset — Village of Ino-sima — Terraced land — “ The pilot’s home ” — River-like sea — Scenes on shore — Clean and comfortable houses — Fortress of Meara-sama — Visit of officials — Their manners and customs — Gale of wind — Ex traordiuary harbour — Southern Channel — Ship ashore — Two Jonahs on board — Nagasaki in winter — Arrival at Shanghae — Plants shipped for England. Ox the 17tli of December, 1860, the good steam- ship ‘ England,’ in which I was passenger, weighed anchor and proceeded to sea. The wind, which had been blowing a gale the day before, was now light and fair, so that we were able to crowd on all sail and made rapid progress. The headlands which had lately been christened as “ Mandarin Blutf ” and “ Treaty Point,” were soon passed, and the pretty little towns of Yokuhama and Kanagawa were lost to our view in the distance. In the afternoon we passed Cape Sagami and the volcanic islands at the entrance of the Bay of Yedo, and were once more in the great Pacific Ocean. Cape Idsu — that stormy 150 THE HOLY MOUNTAIN. Chap. X- cape, the dread of mariners, but which, I am bound to say, lias as yet treated me kindly — was also passed, and then darkness set in, and the fair land of Nip on was hidden from our eyes. On the following morning' I was up and on deck before sunrise, and was well rewarded by the beauty of the scene. Landward, Fusiyama, or the “ Holy Mountain,” was seen towering high above all the other land, covered with snow of the purest white, and its summit already basking in the rays of the morning sun, although that luminary had not yet shown himself to the denizens of our lower world. Sailors and passengers alike looked often and long upon that lovely mountain, and it was with regret we watched it gradually disappear from our view and sink in the horizon. In the afternoon of this day we were abreast of Cape Oo-sima, and soon afterwards entered the Kino Channel, which lies between the islands of Sikok and Nipon, and leads into the Inland Sea. A reference to the map of Japan will give a better idea of the position of this sea than any description. No foreign vessel, except ships of war or transports, had been allowed to navigate its waters, and, as it had not been surveyed, it was necessary, in all cases, to obtain pilots from the Japanese Government before attempting the passage. The ‘ England ’ was not a ship of war nor in any way connected with the Government, and, in ordinary cases, would not have been permitted to pass through the sacred waters of the Inland Sea. But as Captain Chap. X. PRESENTS FOR THE QUEEN. 151 Dundas and his passengers were all anxious to view the beautiful scenery of which they had often heard, a request was sent to the authorities for permission and pilots, backed by the follow- ing powerful reasons. Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain had presented, a handsome steam- yacht to the Tycoon of Japan, and the latter had made a selection of lacquer-ware, paper screens, swords, and a variety of other articles, to send to Her Majesty in return. How, although the good ship ‘ England ’ was not a “ man of war,” and had no great warrior amongst her crew and passengers, yet she had on board the presents for the Queen, and on that account was surely entitled to all the honours of a ship of war. Besides, she might be wrecked if exposed to the stormy waters of the North Pacific Ocean, the presents might be damaged or lost, and that was an additional reason why she ought to be allowed to take the smooth-water passage. The propriety and prudence of the course suggested was perceived at once by the authorities, and pilots were granted forthwith. As the night was calm and clear, we steamed onwards slowly, and found ourselves in the morn- ing on the eastern side of the island of Awadji, or Smoto as it is called in some English charts. There is a passage on the south-east side of this island, but in its centre is a dangerous whirlpool, which all mariners carefully avoid. We therefore took the northern passage. As daylight was breaking 152 INLAND SEA — HIOGO. Chap. X. the ship got ashore on a bank of soft mud. Our Japanese pilots appeared to be steering right on to the island, thinking, no doubt, that the wonder- ful English vessel, that went along without sails or paddles, could pass over land and villages as easily as she could plough the waters of the deep sea. Without much difficulty we got the ship afloat again, and proceeded on our voyage, hut our confidence in the knowledge of our pilots was considerably lessened. Going onward in a north- westerly direction, we approached the entrance to the bay of Hiogo and Osaca. This beautiful Inland Sea was greenish in colour and smooth as a mill-pond. In the direction of the towns just mentioned it was studded with the white sails of small junks, showing that this portion of the Japanese islands must be densely populated. Fisliing-boats were seen in all directions busily employed in securing food for the teeming popula- tion ; and pleasant-looking villages and Daimios’ castles were observed scattered along the shores of the bay. The town of Hiogo, which is the seaport of the imperial city of Osaca, is one of the ports which, according to the treaty, should be opened to foreign trade in 1863 ; and from all accounts it is likely to prove the most important place in Japan. Kcemp- fer, who passed through Osaca about 170 years ago, tells us that he found it “ extremely populous, and, if we can believe what the boasting Japanese tell us, can raise an army of eighty thousand Chap. X. OSACA. 153 men among its inhabitants. It is the best trading town in Japan, being extraordinarily well situated for carrying on commerce, both by land and water. This is the reason why it is so well inhabited by rich merchants, artificers, and manufacturers. . . . Whatever tends to promote luxury, or to gratify sensual pleasures, may be bad at as easy a rate here as anywhere, and for this reason the Japanese call Osaca the universal theatre of pleasures and diversions. Plays are to be seen daily, both in public and private bouses ; mountebanks, jugglers who can show artful tricks, and all the raree-show people who have either some uncommon or mon- strous animal to exhibit, or animals taught to play tricks, resort thither from all parts of the empire, being sure to get a better penny here than any- where else.” In proof of this demand for luxuries in Osaca, Krempfer tells us that the Dutch East India Company “ sent over from Batavia, as a present to the Emperor, a casuar, a large East India bird who would swallow stones and hot coals. This bird having had the ill luck not to please our rigid censors the governors of Nagasaki, and we having thereupon been ordered to send him back to Batavia, a rich Japanese assured us that, if he could have obtained leave to buy him, he would have willingly given a thousand taels for him, as being sure, within a year’s time, to get double that money by showing him at Osaca.” Hiogo and Osaca were visited by Mr. Alcock in the summer of 1861, and his despatch to Earl 154 OSACA. Chap. X. ' Russell fully confirms Kaempfer’s account. “ Tlie approach to Hiogo is good and easy, the anchor- age secure ; the navigation to Osaca for cargo- boats short and easy also, not more than four or five miles from the bay, though some fifteen from Hiogo, which is to Osaca what Kanagawa is to Yedo. Only this last is a capital filled chiefly with Daimios and them retainers — dominant classes, which consume much and produce nothing, and are decidedly hostile to foreign commerce, as diminishing them own share and endangering its easy and secure appropriation ; while Osaca is a great mercantile centre, situated on a plain inter- sected by twenty branches of a river, and spanned by innumerable bridges, some of them 300 paces across ; with this great advantage (above all others) over Yedo, that, although an imperial city, it is comparatively free from the two-sworded genera- tion of locusts and obstructives. There are a large number of Daimios’ residences, occupying more than a league of the river’s banks, but I fancy these are seldom occupied, or only temporarily, by their owners. Immense activity reigns every- where ; and although it was difficult to make much way in finding out the true prices, with yakoneens whose business it was to mislead us and fill their own pockets, I saw enough to satisfy myself that, if anything like free interchange could once be established, this would supply a market more than equal in importance to all the other ports com- bined.” Chap. X. MARTS FOR TRADE. 155 It would appear, therefore, that the towns of Hiogo and Osaca are likely to he places of con- siderable importance in a mercantile point of view. In situation these towns possess great advantages. They are in the central and most populous part of the empire, are easily approached from the sea, and there is good anchorage for ships in Hiogo Bay, or the G-ulf of Osaca. Moreover, Osaca is only a day’s journey from Miaco, the residence of the spiritual Emperor, and the sacred capital of Japan. Thunberg left Osaca by torchlight in the morning, and reached Miaco the same evening. He says, “ Except in Holland, I never made so pleasant a journey as this with regard to the beauty and delightful appearance of the country. Its population, too, and cultivation, exceed all expression. The whole country on both sides of us, as far as we could see, was nothing but a fer- tile field ; and the whole of our long day’s journey extended through villages, of which one began where the other ended.” These ports are not only placed in a most favourable position for commerce, but they also swarm with merchants; and they have few of those idle, two-sworded gentry, who are the curse of Yedo, and who will render that capital unsafe as a residence for foreigners cer- tainly during the lives of the present generation. The great tea-producing districts of Japan are also situated in this part of the country, a circumstance which will render these ports of considerable value to the foreign merchant. In fact, if we can rely 156 COAST SCENERY. Chap. X. upon the statements of Kcempfer, Thunberg, and other travellers — and their statements would seem to he confirmed in Mr. Alcock’s despatch which I have just quoted— Osaca appears to be to Japan what Soo-chow was to China in the days before the rebellion, and what it may one day become again — namely, the great emporium of trade and luxury. As we were not at this time hound for Hiogo or Osaca, we did not proceed further up the hay, but, bearing southward through a narrow strait between the islands of Awaclji and Nipon, we soon reached a wider part of the sea. As we steamed along, the scenery was very lovely and enjoyable. A calm and glassy sea was skirted on each ’side by hills of various heights from 800 to 2000 feet, some- times apparently rugged and barren, and some- times covered with trees and brushwood. Thick clouds of morning mist rested here and there for a while amongst the hills and sometimes on the water, and then became dispersed, allowing us to view the charming scenery, which for a time had been obscured. Fishing-boats were swarming in all directions, and their pretty white sails added not a little to the beauty of the scenery. The excite- ment experienced by the passengers, and even by the sailors, was something most unusual ; sketch-books, pencils, and journals were all in great request, and impressions were produced upon us all which will not easily he forgotten. We were now in what is called the Harama-nada Sea. It gradually widens until the distance be- Chap. X. ISLANDS IN THE SEA. 157 tween the two shores — that is, between the islands of Nipon and Sikok — is about thirty miles. Our course lay nearer the eastern than the western side of the passage. In the afternoon we came to a group of islands, through which we sailed imtil the evening. Some of these are remarkable for their peculiar forms. One named Ya-sima had a rocky summit, giving it the appearance of a huge camel kneeling to receive its load. Viewed from a dif- ferent point, it looked like the ruins of an ancient castle. Another, called the Che-se-Fusi, or Little Fusiyama, was a remarkable representa- tion, although in miniature, of its snow-capped namesake. Both these islands will no doubt prove valuable landmarks to mariners in this sea, as they have probably been for ages past to the Japanese. The scenery in this part of the sea was quite a panorama — ever shifting as we sailed onwards. Now we opened up a beautiful bay, with a fishing village on its shores, and terraced cultivation extending a short way up the side of the hills. Losing sight of this, other islands, bays, and coves came constantly into view to charm and de- light the eye. In one flat valley on our left we had a good view of a town of considerable size, in which a Daimio of great power resided and reigned supreme. His castle appeared to be strongly forti- fied, and had numerous watch-towers on its walls. These castles are apparently numerous in all parts of the empire, for many of them were seen on the 158 ISLANDS IN THE SEA. . Chap. X. shores of the “ Inland Sea ” during our passage through it. Although the scenery through which we had passed had been most picturesque and beautiful, yet the land did not appear to he rich or fertile. With the exception of little patches of terraced- work near the sea-shore, the ground seemed in a state of nature where the hand of the agriculturist had never ventured to turn over the soil. Eocks, apparently of granite and clay-slate, with red barren earth, were seen everywhere in patches amongst the scanty vegetation of stunted fir-trees. Perhaps in spring, or during the rainy season, when the hills are green, these islands may not present such a barren appearance ; and no doubt, as in China, the interior may be rich and fertile, although the land is barren near the sea-shore. But though not rich in an agricultural point of view, the strange and romantic hills and valleys, the rugged rocks, and those sights of nature “ stern and wild,” contrasted with towns and villages nestled in snug coves, and basking on the shores of this beautiful “ Inland Sea,” made more than one of our little party express a wisli to be set on shore, and to become a “ hermit of the glade ” for the remainder of his days amongst such scenery. I was rather disappointed in the number of trading-junks and fishing-boats seen during the day. The weather was fine, and there was nothing to keep them in their anchorages near the shore Chap. X. ANCHORAGES. 159 had they really existed. A place like this in China would have swarmed with them ; and, as I have already stated, they were numerous in the vicinity of the ports of Hiogo and Osaca — towns which we know to be large and populous. This fact, together with the sterile character of the land, would lead to the conclusion that the southern part of Nipon, and the western part of Sikok, do not possess a large population or an extensive trade. Time will show whether these surmises are correct, or whether this absence of marine traffic be due to some other cause. There are numerous well-sheltered anchorages in many parts of this sea ; but, as in China, there seem to be some special ones which alone the natives are accustomed to use, to the total neglect of the others, and no doubt for native craft these are the best ones. We passed one of these fa- voured places about three o’clock in the afternoon, and our pilot wanted the captain to go in there and anchor for the night. This proceeding, how- ever, did not suit the ideas of Englishmen, who are always in a hurry, and it was intimated to our good pilot that it was too early in the day to anchor, and that we must go on until the evening. Before dark another place was pointed out as a safe anchorage for the night. A fishing-junk was at anchor a short distance ahead of us ; and our pilot thought, naturally enough, that there must be good anchorage in her vicinity. But when we got up with the junk, a cast of the lead showed us 160 VILLAGE OF INO-SIMA. Chap. X. that she was at anchor in a place where there were twenty-three fathoms of water ! She had, no doubt, only a light hedge out, and had taken up that position for fishing operations. We therefore steamed onwards until our soundings gave twenty fathoms, when Captain Dundas, fearing to approach nearer the shore, dropped anchor for the night. A few minutes before we anchored the sun went down behind the islands of the west, and, in bidding the “ Inland Sea ” adieu for the day, lighted up the clouds in the most gorgeous man- ner, and gave them the appearance of mountains of fire and gold. And thus ended my first day in the Harama-nada Sea. Next morning (Dec. 20), at daylight, we weighed anchor with considerable difficulty, owing to the length of chain we had out in our deep anchorage. We discovered, too, that, at a short distance from where we had spent the night, there was an excellent anchorage, with only eight fathoms of water over it. During the forenoon we came up with a pretty-looking village of consider- able size, named Ino-sima. Here the land ap- peared much more fertile than we had seen since entering the sea. The houses were scattered over the sides of the hills amongst fields and gardens of terraced land, and surrounded with healthy fruit-trees, apparently pears. The young crops of wheat and barley were above ground, forming broad patches of the liveliest green, most pleasing to look upon. Half-way up the hills cultivation ,*MOH 8 ( J/)1I