SEP I t 2086 
 
 DT 351 .S9 M37 1890 
 Marston, E. 1825-1914. 
 How Stanley wrote "In 
 darkest Africa." 
 
EX LIBRIS 
 
 DR.G.PUCHINGER 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/howstanleywroteiOOmars 
 
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HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 "IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
A OVER T1SEMENTS. 
 
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EX LIBRIS 
 
 □R.G.PUCHINGER 
 
how STANLEY wrote 
 IN DARKEST AFRICA" 
 
 A TRIP TO CAIRO AND BACK 
 
 By E. MARSTON 
 
 Author of " Tlie Amateur Angler,' ''Frank's Rancke, 
 "Fresh Woods," &>c. 
 
 (tartly reprinted, with illustrations, from "scribner's magazinp,"' 
 with alterations and considerable additions.) 
 
 LONDON 
 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON 
 
 Limited 
 
 St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street 
 1890 
 
BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 
 THE AMATEUR ANGLER'S DAYS 
 
 IN" DOVE DALE. Third Edition, is. 
 
 FRANK'S RANCHE; or, My 
 
 HOLIDAYS IN THE ROCKIES. Fifth 
 Edition. 5s. 
 
 FRESH WOODS AND PASTURES 
 
 New. Third Edition. Fancy boards, if. Cloth, 
 is. 6d. 
 
 COPYRIGHT, NATIONAL AND 
 
 INTERNATIONAL, from a Publisher's 
 point of view. Second Edition. 2s. 6d. 
 
I have decided to make a little book of the article which 
 appeared in ' Scribner's Magazine' for August, 1890, entitled 
 * How Stanley wrote his book.' This article I have now 
 revised by the light of later experience, and I have added 
 other matter having reference to my trip to Egypt, together 
 with some new Illustrations. For the use of the little 
 Vignette on the titlepage I am indebted to Messrs. Wood- 
 house & Rawson. 
 
 E. M. 
 
 London, 
 September, 1890. 
 
 SEP I I 2006 
 
THIRD EDITION NOW READY. 
 
 IN DARKEST AFRICA. By Henry 
 
 M. Stanley, D.C.L., LL.D., &c. Being 
 the Official Publication Recording the Quest, 
 Rescue, and Retreat of Emin, Governor of 
 Equatoria. Ordinary Edition, 2 vols, demy 
 8vo., with 150 Illustrations and 3 Maps, in 
 handsome cloth binding, price Two Guineas. 
 
 The TIMES.—' Mr. Stanley's narrative of his adventures, 
 privations, sufferings, trials, dangers and discoveries during 
 his heroic quest and rescue of Emin Pasha is as moving and 
 enthralling a tale as ever was told by man.' 
 
 The STAXDARD.—'Ut. Stanley's animated pages... 
 will continue to be read as long as there remains amongst 
 Englishmen any taste for advenfue, and any honour for 
 manliness.' 
 
 The DAIL Y NEWS.—' It is a great performance, alike 
 in what it relates, and in the manner of the relation, and it 
 w ill constitute an enduring monument to its author's fame.' 
 &c. &c. &c. 
 
 London: SAMPSON Low, MarstON, Searle, 
 and RlVINGTON, Limited, 
 St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lam-, Fleet Street, L.C. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Invitation to visit Cairo — En route — Snow in summer weather — 
 Turin — Brindisi— On board the s.s. Rome — Port Said — Suez 
 Canal — Ismailia — Affecting parting from our friends — Start 
 for Cairo — An alarming telegram — My birthday celebrated in 
 darkness — Arrival at Cairo i 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 A row at the railway station — A fierce foreigner seized my carriage 
 — Walk to hotel — Warmly welcomed by Stanley . , 7 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Double motive of my journey — Stanley and the skins of wild geese — ■ 
 My Russian Count — His promise to shoot some wild geese for 
 me— Stanley's removal from Shepheard's to Hotel Villa Vic- 
 toria — I settle down there — Our landlord a model ' ' Lotos 
 
X 
 
 COXTEXTS. 
 
 Eater " — Stanley's apartments — Irritability at work — Amiability 
 at mess — His Abstemiousness — Apollinaris almost his only 
 beverage — My first glimpse of the Nile . . .11 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Hard work — Developing Negatives — Copying Manuscript — Sunset 
 from the citadel — The Mouski — Museum of Antiquities — 
 Rameses II. — Visit to the Pyramids — Climbing old Cheops — 
 The Bedouins who help me — The Granite Temple — The 
 Sphinx— I encounter my Count again — Further promises to 
 shoot a wild goose for me — " The king of Egypt," Mr. Cook, 
 and the British Army all on the qui vive for wild geese — How 
 crocodiles are caught ....... 24 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Stanley's note-books, facsimiles of— Sitting for his portrait to 
 Miss Meyrick — Mr. Joseph Bell taking notes of illustrations 
 — Visit of Zebehr Pasha — Shoals of letters — An Austrian 
 enthusiast wishes to introduce forty compatriots — Astute 
 bribery — Quotations from correspondence — Stanley's old cap 
 wanted — " Is Stanley in church ? "—Grand balloon ascent — 
 Terrific thunderstorm ....... 42 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 Stanley as I knew him — His belief in an over-ruling Providence — 
 Bidding adieu — My landlady presents me with a memento of 
 yellow roses — They embarrass me as a solitary traveller — Gift 
 
COXTEXTS. 
 
 xi 
 
 to a fellow-traveller who promises to preserve every petal as 
 coming from Stanley's garden — Arrival at the Hotel Abbat, 
 Alexandria — On board the Euterpe — Meet the Voi~wiirts sig- 
 nalling for help — A brother publisher on board — Hastening to 
 visit Stanley — Excitement in America about the Book — Rival 
 publishers and rival books ...... 58 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Arrival at Brindisi — Trip up the harbour to a vine-grower's chateau 
 — Virgil's cottage — Naples in a mist — Rome in a torrent of 
 rain — Sight-seeing under difficulties — Milan Cathedral in the 
 early morning — Arrival at Paris — Arrangements with the artist 
 M. Riou — Train de Luxe — Home — Proofs dispatched to Cairo 
 — Dinner to Stanley by his publishers — Statistics about the 
 book — Stanley's speech — The book is published — And Stanley 
 married ......... 67 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Hotel Villa Victoria, Cairo .... Fronfispiece 
 
 My Arrival in Cairo face page 9 
 
 My March to Villa Victoria . . . . ,, ir 
 
 Portrait of Salt ,, 16 
 
 Sali delivering Telegram ,, 20 
 
 Stanley at Work , 24 
 
 Climbing the Pyramid or Cheops . . . ,, 30 
 
 Killing a Crocodile ,, 38 
 
 Miss Meyrick painting Stanley's Portrait . 45 
 
 Facsimile of a Page of Stanley's Diary . . pages 46, 47 
 Stanley and Joseph Bell, the Artist, preparing 
 
 Sketches free page 48 
 
 Stanley dictating to his Secretary . . . ,, 54 
 
 The Man who could not tell a Lje ,, 65 
 
 < 
 
HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 "IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 A TRIP TO CAIRO AND BACK. 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Invitation to visit Cairo — En route — Snow in summer weather — 
 Turin — Brindisi — On board the s.s. ^pme — Port Said — Suez 
 Canal — Ismailia — Affecting parting from our friends — Start for 
 Cairo — An alarming telegram — My birthday celebrated in dark- 
 ness — Arrival at Cairo. 
 
 iVERYTHING relating to Mr. Stanley seems to pos- 
 sess a special and peculiar interest for a very large 
 portion of the public of many nationalities. Such 
 readers I have thought might be glad to know something 
 about the method of writing, and the daily life, of the 
 author of a work respecting the appearance of which they 
 had already evinced such a very extraordinary interest, for 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 I/O IV STAXLE Y WROTE 
 
 probably no book has ever been more eagerly looked for in 
 every part of the civilised world, and in many languages, 
 than the one which Mr. Stanley lately finished. 
 
 On Mr. Stanley's arrival in Cairo he immediately tele- 
 graphed to me, inviting me to pay him a visit there, with a 
 view to forward the progress of the great work he had in 
 hand ; and he suggested that I should bring an artist with 
 me. I need not say that I accepted the invitation with the 
 greatest possible pleasure. 
 
 It is by no means an everyday occurrence for a publisher 
 
 to travel so far from his native land, for the purpose of 
 
 encountering an author, as I have travelled at the invitation 
 
 of my good friend, Henry M. Stanley. 
 
 This exceptional occurrence induces me to think that a 
 
 brief account of my wanderings may not be without interest. 
 
 I left London on the yth of February, and I left it foggy and 
 
 damp and wet, but not cold. 
 
 Before leaving home I had been strongly urged by my son, 
 
 who is an enthusiastic fly-fisher, not to fail to bring back with 
 
 me a good supply of the skins of Egyptian wild geese. I 
 
 had, therefore, a twofold object before me. 
 
 As I travelled eastward towards the rising sun, the weather, 
 
 contrary to my expectations, became colder and colder. 
 
 From Paris to the Italian frontier I slept the sleep of the just 
 
 in a Pullman sleeping-car, therefore I cannot speak of the 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA. " 3 
 
 weather during that night ; but, on emerging from the Mont 
 Cenis tunnel in the morning, not only the mountains but the 
 valleys were deeply clad in snow, and the nearer we ap- 
 proached Turin the deeper it became. I had decided to stop 
 a few hours in that beautiful city to catch the Indian mail, 
 which I was wrongly told would leave there at 6 o'clock the 
 same evening. I had arrived there at 12 o'clock, and, when 
 too late, I found the mail train really did not pass through 
 Turin till 3 o'clock next morning. I trudged through the 
 streets of Turin, where the snow lay in huge heaps, then 
 being carted away, the fall during the previous night having 
 reached six inches on the level. Now the sun was shining 
 at our summer heat, and I found heavy clothing a burden. 
 After a run through the Cathedral, I dined at the Railway 
 Hotel, and remained there as long as they would let me ; 
 but I was turned out at 12 o'clock, and I had to manage as 
 well as I could in a fireless and unlighted waiting-room till 
 that Indian mail came in. 
 
 I reached Brindisi and left it in the dark — what it is like, 
 or whether it is worth seeing, I know not. I got on board 
 the P. & O. s.s. Rome at 3 o'clock a.m. There we found a 
 lively company, Mr. and Mrs. Terry being the lions. The 
 Mediterranean was cold and rough, the chief event to me 
 being that a puff of wind carried my hat where it was useless 
 to follow : so for the remainder of the voyage I was indebted 
 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 
 to the kindness of a fellow-passenger. Mr. and Mrs. Terry 
 kept the company alive, and games, music, songs and stories 
 were the order of the day and night. 
 
 At Port Said we were detained several hours. The mails 
 left by a small steamer at 7 o'clock a.m., so we had to stick 
 to our ship to Ismailia, and telegraph for a special train to 
 take us on to Cairo. The passage down the Canal would be 
 very monotonous were it not for the novelty of the thing 
 and the queer antics of the baksheesh boys on either shore. 
 
 We quitted the good ship Rome at Ismailia. There about 
 fifty of us left for Cairo. The scene of parting was comically 
 affecting. It was quite dark. All the Indian passengers 
 came on deck to see us off. They sang * Auld Lang Syne ' 
 and other songs — hurrahed, shouted, and screamed. The 
 young officers affected the deepest sorrow at parting with us. 
 "Bear up, darlings ! " they cried, " it will never do for all 
 of us to break down — booh! hoo ! " The darkness and the 
 crowd of faces on the tender and on the ship, lighted up by 
 electric light, presented a very picturesque scene. 
 
 Crowded, bag and baggage, into a small tender, our cross- 
 ing Lake Timsah would have been in true Egyptian darkness 
 but for the lurid electric light which the steamer threw 
 along our path. On landing, we had to walk about half- 
 a-mile to the station. The scene there, in getting our 
 luggage through the Custom-house, is indescribable ; the 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 5 
 
 shouting, yelling, screaming, and fighting of the Arab 
 porters in the dimly-lighted darkness was something quite 
 new to me. 
 
 We got off at last at n p.m. All our passengers, about 
 fifty in number, had written for rooms at Shepheard's Hotel. 
 On reaching the midway station at Zakazik, a telegram was 
 received by one of the passengers : "Hotel full. Advise all 
 passengers to stop till to-morrow ! " Consternation reigned 
 supreme. What could be done? It was impossible to go 
 back, and Zakazik could offer no accommodation. Camp- 
 ing-out seemed to be the general expectation. Being safely 
 provided for myself, I comforted them as well as I could by 
 the reflection that it was not a very cold night, and it would 
 soon be morning. About 2 o'clock my opposite fellow- 
 traveller woke me out of the first doze I had just got into by 
 seizing my hand and wishing me " many happy returns of 
 the day" (it being my birthday). Then there was shaking 
 my hands all round. My health was proposed and drunk, 
 the beverage being one bottle of soda-water, which was all 
 that the company could muster, and which was decanted by 
 lucifer-match light. Songs were sung. I was called upon 
 to return thanks, which I did in the dark and with becoming 
 brevity. Thus it happened that my sixty-sixth birthday was 
 celebrated in an Egyptian railway carriage, in profound dark- 
 ness — for our lamp had long since gone out — and in the 
 
6 HOW STANLEY WROTE, ETC. 
 
 midst of a delightful company of ladies and gentlemen 
 whom I never saw before I met them on the boat, and 
 whom, in all probability, I shall never see again. At 
 Cairo we all parted, every one looking after himself and 
 his belongings. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 A row at the railway station— A fierce foreigner seized my carriage — 
 Walk to hotel — "Warmly welcomed by Stanley. 
 
 f^°^M T was too much to expect the great man to meet 
 gPl! me at tne station at 3 o'clock in the morning. 
 ^ SssJj He did the next best thing by sending his courier 
 and dragoman, who, knowing the tricks of the Arab 
 cabmen, engaged two cabs at the hotel, well assured that 
 at least one of them would bolt if a more likely fare turned 
 up. We were some time in collecting our luggage, and 
 when we got outside we found that one cab had decamped 
 and the other was loaded up, and a fierce-looking foreigner 
 inside who gesticulated violently — swearing, no doubt, 
 but in a language unintelligible to me, that he was there, 
 and there he meant to stay. The rcw that was kicked 
 
HO W STANLE Y WROTE > E TC. 
 
 9 
 
 up between the courier and the coachman, and at least a 
 dozen Arabs, was something to be remembered but not 
 described. We had to give way, and there was not another 
 cab to be had. There was nothing for it but to walk half-a- 
 mile to the hotel ; there was another scrimmage and fight, 
 howling and gesticulating by at least a score of Arabs, as to 
 who should carry our luggage. We got away at last, after 
 the courier had kicked half-a-dozen of them, in a way which 
 would considerably affect their sitting down with comfort. 
 
 The scene was a perfectly ludicrous one, and one could 
 not help laughing, in spite of the inconvenience. The 
 accompanying fancy sketches, from a description I had sent 
 home, were subsequently sent to me to Cairo, by my son, 
 E. P. M. They fairly represent the scene, with grotesque 
 exaggeration. 
 
 I got safely to bed, where I slept soundly for many hours 
 then I went down and was affectionately welcomed by 
 Mr. Stanley. 
 
 I found myself the guest of a very remarkable man, whose 
 name was ringing through the civilized and uncivilized 
 world ; a man whom every one was longing to see as the 
 hero of the day. To be so honoured and so sought after 
 was, as he one day said to me, "enough to turn his head, 
 if he had not had much more serious matters to think 
 about." 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 Double motive of my journey — Stanley and the skins of wild geese 
 — My Russian Count — His promise to shoot some wild geese for 
 me — Stanley's removal from Shepheard's to Hotel Villa Victoria 
 ■ — I settle down there — Our landlord a model " Lotos Eater " — 
 Stanley's apartments — Irritability at work — Amiability at mess — 
 His abstemiousness — Apollinaris almost his only beverage — 
 My first glimpse of the Nile. 
 
 SAID that I had taken this long journey with a two- 
 gPj fold object : my second object was one which 
 _ss§3| doubtless will present itself to my angling friends 
 as one of far greater interest than anything that could be 
 said about Stanley. I was specially commissioned to collect 
 as many of the skins of Egyptian wild geese as I could get. 
 Up to this moment I can only say that this has been a 
 wild-goose chase, but I do not despair yet. 
 
 Whilst crossing the Mediterranean I made the acquaintance 
 of a Russian count, who asked me in French if I could speak 
 
12 
 
 HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 
 French. I said " Non, monsieur ! je ne parle pas Francois." 
 " Ah ! " says he in English, " you speak French vare well." 
 " Ah ! " said I, "you speak English splendidly." " Ah ! no, 
 no," says he, " I cannot speak a vord ! " At length, how- 
 ever, by mixing up the languages a bit, and aided by wild 
 gesticulations and pointing of an umbrella at the sea-gulls, 
 and then saying "poof," I came at length to understand 
 that he was going a-shooting in Egypt. 
 
 This, thought I, is a lucky chance. I will ask him to 
 shoot me a wild goose ; and I told him in Anglo-Franco 
 language what I wanted. I explained as well as I could 
 that many anglers in England were dying for the want of a 
 few feathers from the neck of an Egyptian wild goose for 
 the purpose of making flies for catching trout and salmon. 
 
 "Ah! is dat so? I comprends vare well. Mais vat is 
 dat bird a vild goose? I not comprends." 
 
 I wondered how I could make him comprehend, for I 
 could not for the life of me remember the French for wild 
 ^oose. 
 
 He sat opposite to me at dinner, and fortunately among 
 :he dishes was roast duck. I drew his attention to a wing 
 on my plate, and I said — 
 
 "Wild goose, c'est comme ?a, mais plus large — plus 
 grande ! " 
 
 "Ah, oui, oui," says he; "canard Egyptien est plus 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 13 
 
 large que le canard Anglais? Si, I will shoot you un 
 canard Egyptien." 
 
 " Non ! non ! " says I. " That is a duck — I want a wild 
 goose." 
 
 Luckily it happened that his neighbour, who spoke French 
 and understood Russian very well, explained to him clearly, 
 and at last he fully comprehended that I wanted a wild goose. 
 
 " Oui ! certainement, surely I vill shoot you a vild 
 goose." 
 
 So I am not yet destitute of hope that soon I shall get a 
 supply of those precious feathers which I understand are so 
 scarce in my native land. 
 
 I think it may be looked upon as an almost unique thing 
 in the history of authors and publishers for a publisher to be 
 invited to travel so far to give practical assistance to an 
 author in the preparation of his manuscript. The truth, 
 however, was that a great book had to be written within a 
 certain period of time, and if not completed by that time, 
 there was every chance that it would never be completed at 
 all. 
 
 To attain this end Mr. Stanley had very wisely decided 
 not to proceed home, where to write his book in peace and 
 quietness was out of the question ; while in Egypt there was 
 a possibility of comparative seclusion, and the advantages of 
 a most delightful climate, where even confinement to the 
 
14 
 
 ' HO W STANLE Y WROTE 
 
 desk would not be so injurious as in the murky atmosphere 
 of London at that period of the year. Those who know 
 Cairo are well aware that its climate during the winter 
 months is simply perfect. The dry and exhilarating air acts 
 in itself as a tonic, and the almost complete absence of rain 
 and fog and leaden skies, and the genial temperature, all 
 combine to make life in Cairo, even to a recluse, thoroughly 
 enjoyable. iJ^ti^u^ 
 
 Mr. Stanley, after his arrival, and after the first display of 
 honours forced upon him by the Khedive and other digni- 
 taries of the place, very wisely departed from the noise and 
 bustle of Shepheard's Hotel, and found a charming retreat in 
 the Hotel Villa Victoria. 
 
 This hotel is situated in the most beautiful part of Cairo, 
 not far from the Ezbekiyeh Gardens, and is surrounded on 
 all sides by fine and newly built mansions. It comprises 
 three separate buildings, which form three sides of a quad- 
 rangle, in the centre of which is a charming garden. Here 
 are pleasant walks, shaded by huge palms, and orange-trees 
 laden with ripe fruit ; one of the latter looked temptingly 
 into Mr. Stanley's working-room. In the centre is a fountain 
 surrounded by tropical and oriental plants, and the antics of 
 a monkey tied to a tree gave variety to the scene. 
 
 The landlord of this hotel seems to fully appreciate the 
 charms of his surroundings. How or when he conducts his 
 
i5 
 
 business is a mystery. To me it seemed that most of his 
 time was spent lolling luxuriously in a hammock, smoking a 
 cigarette, or, for exercise, mildly swaying himself backward 
 and forward on a rope swing — or reclining and complacently 
 dozing in a bower under a canopy of yellow sweet-scented 
 roses. Life to him appeared like a pleasant dream. He 
 reminded me of Tennyson's " mild-eyed, melancholy Lotos- 
 eaters." 
 
 " With half-shut eyes ever to seem 
 Falling asleep in a ha'f-dream." 
 
 A sharp contrast to this lazy, happy lounger was the toiler 
 in the room whose open windows looked out over a trellis 
 of roses and ripe mandarins, on this idle garden, where 
 doves and grey-backed crows were familiar visitors. I must, 
 however, do this good landlord the justice of saying that, 
 notwithstanding the easy enjoyment he seems to get out of 
 his life, his hotel is admirably managed. It is charmingly 
 furnished throughout, the living is very good, the bedrooms 
 are lofty, airy, and well looked after in every respect. 
 
 It was in that part of the hotel farthest removed from the 
 street that Mr. Stanley took up his abode. Here he had a 
 fine suite of rooms on the ground floor, very handsomely 
 furnished in the oriental style. A large, lofty reception- 
 room and an equally large and handsome dining-room. In 
 these he received some of the most important or most per- 
 
i6 
 
 HO W STANLE Y WROTE 
 
 sistent of his many callers ; but as a rule he shut himself up 
 in his bedroom, and there he wrote from early morning till 
 late at night, and woe betide any one who ventured unasked 
 into this sanctum. He very rarely went out, even for a stroll 
 round the garden. His whole heart and soul were centred 
 on his work. He had set himself a certain task, and he had 
 determined to complete it to the exclusion of every other 
 object in life. He said of himself, "I have so many pages 
 to write. I know that if I do not complete this work by a 
 certain time, when other and imperative duties are imposed 
 upon me, I shall never complete it at all. When my work 
 is accomplished, then I will talk with you, laugh with you, 
 and play with you, or ride with you to your heart's content ; 
 but let me alone now, for Heaven's sake." 
 
 Nothing worried him more than a tap at the door while 
 he was writing ; he sometimes glared even upon me like a 
 tiger ready to spring, although I was of necessity a frequent 
 and privileged intruder, and always with a view to forward- 
 ing the work in hand. He was a perfect terror to his courier 
 and black boy. When his courier knocked tremblingly at 
 his door, he would cry out, "Am I a prisoner in my own 
 house?" "I've brought you this telegram, sir." "Well, 
 I detest telegrams ; why do you persist in bringing them ? " 
 
 Sali, the black boy who travelled with him throughout his 
 long and perilous expedition, is a youth of some resource. 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 19 
 
 Until this terrible book had got into his master's brain he had 
 been accustomed to free access to him at all hours ; but now 
 things were different ; every time he approached the den, the 
 least thing he expected was that the inkstand would be 
 thrown at his head. He no longer ventured therein. One 
 day he originated a new way of saving his head ; he had a 
 telegram to deliver, so he ingeniously fixed it on the end of 
 a long bamboo, and getting the door just ajar, he poked it 
 into the room and bolted. 
 
 At luncheon and dinner Mr. Stanley was quite another 
 man. Then he was most agreeable and chatty, full of 
 anecdote and stories of his adventures — sometimes he would 
 read aloud to us what he deemed to be choice bits from his 
 manuscript — at other times he would speak of his dreams of 
 the future. His great ambition, he said, was to have a nice 
 little house and a nice little wife within an easy distance of 
 London — such a place, I imagine, as that which Cowley 
 longed for — 
 
 " A handsome house to lodge a friend, 
 A river at my garden's end, 
 A terrace walk, and half a rood 
 Of land £et out to plant a wood." 
 
 He and I and his secretary generally messed together ; 
 occasionally a friend dropped in. Mr. Stanley is himself 
 extremely abstemious. His favourite, indeed, I believe almost 
 
 C 2 
 
20 
 
 I/O IV STA XLE Y WROTE 
 
 his only beverage is Apollinaris water with a tablespoonful of 
 brandy, and in this respect he is somewhat forgetful of his 
 friends. One evening a friend came in to dinner, and we sat 
 for about two hours smoking and listening to his stories, but 
 it never once occurred to him to ask his friend to take any- 
 thing with his cigar. At length his guest, who was growing 
 thirsty, asked him before leaving if he might have a little 
 whisky and soda. "My dear fellow," said he, "why did 
 you not ask for it before ? I never once thought of it. I ask 
 your pardon ! " I frequently remonstrated with him for 
 passing dish after dish without touching them. His invari- 
 able reply was, " How can I eat and work? You know well 
 that yonder are several pages for me to complete before I 
 sleep." "But," I replied, "you are killing yourself; it is 
 quite impossible for the strongest constitution to stand such a 
 strain as this ; when I came here ten days ago, you seemed 
 to me to be in the most robust health ; already I notice a 
 difference in you ; you complain of sundry aches and pains ; 
 beware of your old enemy, gastric fever ! " His reply to this 
 was, " Ah ! but the book ! the book must be done." 
 
 On the day after my arrival Dr. Parke called and urged 
 him, for his health's sake, to go out for a drive with him ; but 
 he steadily refused to move out of his room. 
 
 One day I did succeed in getting him out for half an hour. 
 "We walked down to get a glimpse of the Nile. The air was 
 
"IN DARKEST AFRICA: 
 
 23 
 
 sufficiently cool to be invigorating ; it did him good. After 
 contemplating the river for a few seconds, he remarked, " Six 
 months ago I drank its waters at its eastern source, which I 
 discovered years ago. On my recent expedition I discovered 
 its western source in the no longer fabulous ' Mountains of 
 the Moon' — that source water must have taken almost as 
 long to travel here as I have done. Now that you have 
 discovered the mouth, let us go back to work." 
 
 Except to dine out once or twice in the evening, he was 
 only once more outside the garden during my stay. 
 
 We roamed along the river's banks for half an hour, but I 
 saw no wild geese ; still I do not despair — I am on the track 
 of them. My angling friends, let not your hearts be heavy 
 for fear that I shall not succeed. I have not seen my Russian 
 Count yet, but I have his word, his promise, and will he not 
 keep it ? 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Hard -work — Developing Negatives — Copying Manuscript — Sunset 
 from the Citadel — The Mouski — Museum of Antiquities — 
 Rameses II. — Visit to the Pyramids — Climhling old Cheops — 
 The Bedouins who help me — The Granite Temple — The Sphinx 
 —I encounter my Count again — Further promises to shoot a 
 wild goose for me — "The King of Egypt," Mr. Cook, and 
 the British army all on the qui vive for wild geese — How 
 crocodiles are caught. 
 
 leave Cairo without a very large proportion of the complete 
 manuscript, and the whole of the sketches and maps in my 
 portmanteau. 
 
 First, there were Stanley's photographs to be developed by 
 a local photographer, in order that we might see how they 
 
 MAY say that my own life while in Cairo was not 
 one of indolence or leisure. I never worked more 
 incessantly in my life, for I had determined not to 
 
HO IV STANLE Y WROTE, ETC. 27 
 
 would come out. It is needless to say that these negatives, 
 taken with infinite care, by Stanley himself, of scenes all 
 through the journey, were regarded by him and by me with 
 the utmost jealousy. I therefore took upon myself to watch 
 the whole process from beginning to end, and I never lost 
 sight of these precious negatives till I carried them back to 
 the hotel. Alas I am sorry to say that many of the pictures 
 had almost disappeared from the glass, and at best could 
 only serve to suggest valuable hints to our artist. These had 
 been over-exposed or not sufficiently exposed in the blazing 
 sun of the tropics ; others I was delighted to find come out 
 quite clearly, and represent scenes of the greatest value, ar- 
 tistically and geographically, as well as conveying accurate 
 types of new races in the interior. 
 
 Again, knowing that I should have to convey with me a 
 manuscript of very great value, which, if lost in transit, 
 would not merely be a loss to myself but to a world of readers 
 anxiously waiting for it, I decided to have a second copy 
 made of the whole. One copy I determined to carry with 
 me, and the other to send forward registered to London, in 
 a separate trunk. 
 
 To accomplish this I obtaihed and set up a copying-press 
 in the secretary's room, but as much of Stanley's manuscript 
 before I reached him had not been written in copying-ink, 
 that portion I copied out myself, and for the remainder I 
 
2S 
 
 HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 
 worked away several hours at the copying-press, and obtained 
 in this way about four hundred folios. 
 
 Notwithstanding this excessive toil to which I had volun- 
 tarily condemned myself, I lost no opportunity of seeing as 
 much as I possibly could of the wonderful old city of Cairo 
 and its surroundings. No one should go to Cairo without 
 ascending to the citadel about the hour of sunset : the view 
 is superb. 
 
 It is no part of my object to describe Cairo or the scenery 
 round about it, there are plenty of guide-books, and plenty 
 of guides and donkeys to take one everywhere. The Mouski 
 is the busiest thoroughfare in Old Cairo. In this street 
 and in the narrow passages running out of it on each side 
 are to be found the numerous ha^aars for which the city is 
 famous. 
 
 The mosques, palaces, and dancing dervishes are the chief 
 sights. 
 
 On one occasion I walked over to the new Museum of 
 Antiquities, which has only just been removed from Bulak to 
 the palace of Gezireh, about three miles from the city. Here 
 the most remarkable thing that I observed, amidst many 
 things most wonderful, was the mummy of Rameses II. The 
 body, partly uncovered, is exhibited under a glass case. The 
 head, neck, and arms, and legs, and feet are bare. That 
 face has haunted me ever since — it is in a most perfect state 
 
" AV DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 23 
 
 of preservation. There are the thick, prominent lips, the 
 high cheek-bones, clad with tight-fitting leathery skin ; strong 
 aquiline nose, receding forehead — the very look of the man 
 who oppressed the Israelites. 
 
 "Perchance that very hand now pinicned flat 
 Has hob-a-nobbed with Moses g'ass to glass." 
 
 There are many other mummies in an equally perfect state ; 
 but this fellow, who argued with and scolded Moses, if he 
 did not bobanob with him ; there he is in ghastly perfection. 
 One seems to know him, as if he had only died yesterday. 
 In the streets of Cairo to-day one sees many a fine old fellow 
 with exactly that nose, those lips, and chin. 
 
 One day I took Stanley's courier with me, and we drove 
 out to the pyramids, keeping a sharp look-out on the different 
 inlets and lagoons we passed on the way. Ducks and snipes, 
 herons and vultures, in abundance ; but geese, no ! After 
 lunching at the new hotel which, in spite 01 the strong 
 opposition of the Bedouins, has recently sprung up there as 
 a health resort, on the very verge of the desert, I mounted a 
 donkey, and clambered up the winding ascent, protected from 
 the desert sand by high walls on each side, for a quarter of a 
 mile, when we found ourselves at the foot of old Cheops. 
 I was immediately surrounded by about forty Bedouins, all 
 wanting to carry me up to the top. I decided to ascend, 
 chiefly, I may say, with the object of getting a wider range, 
 
30 
 
 HO W STANLE Y WROTE 
 
 and with my field-glass to scan the country round to look 
 for wild geese. After much shrieking, the sheik reduced 
 the number of candidates for the honour of helping me up 
 to three, and away we started. I assure you it is no joke 
 climbing these over three-feet steps to a giddy height. One 
 of the number announced himself as — "Me Arab doctor. 
 Me take care your health no suffer. Me rub your legs, den 
 dey not stiff to-morrow mornin'." After I had got up a short 
 distance, he set about and rubbed my legs ; and really the 
 rubbing did me good. I felt nothing of the subsequent 
 fatigue usually experienced after mountain climbing. Then 
 they started me off again, two before and one behind, besides 
 a fourth, who had followed unbidden, and who did nothing 
 but carry an earthen bottle. I wondered what his business 
 was. Presently I discovered. Whenever I sat down for a 
 breath he brought me his bottle. "Ah!" says he, "you 
 drink dis water, it ver good, from de Nile." Then they all 
 shouted, "Oh, yes, guv'nor, Nile water; good for you; 
 drink, drink ! " So I drank. It may be very good ; but it 
 was certainly very nasty ; and so we went up, up, up. 
 "Ah, master governor, you very clever to climb." When 
 I got three-fourths of the way up, I surveyed the country 
 round ; the great Lybian and Saharan deserts on the one 
 hand, the fertile valley of the Nile on the other. My courier 
 wns delighted at the chance of seeing the pyramids, but he 
 
CLIMBIXG THE PYRAMID OF CHEOPS. 
 
IN DARKEST A L RICA. 
 
 33 
 
 was loo nervous to attempt the ascent himself, and begged 
 me not to venture. Looking down from the height I had 
 reached he appeared like a black bottle with arms stretched 
 out, or a beetle standing on his hind legs, gesticulating wildly 
 to me to be careful, for he expected every moment to see us 
 all come tumbling down together. 
 
 The scene is a most remarkable one : away off yonder, 
 looking westward as far as the distant horizon, nothing but 
 glaring sand and naked hills and rocks ; here below us are 
 the sphinx and the other and smaller pyramids. Looking 
 southwards and northwards, in the distance one can see 
 other pyramids and brown death-like deserts. Turning east- 
 ward, the scene is changed ; there is the great river, enclosed 
 by green fields and rich arable land, intersected by canals, all 
 lined with graceful palms or acacias; and away off, still 
 looking eastward, the whole city of Cairo stands out, with 
 its mosques and tall minarets, backed up by the Mokattam 
 Hills. 
 
 The road from Cairo to the pyramids is one straight line 
 almost the whole distance, each side shaded by evergreen 
 acacia- trees. A grand panorama, truly ; but nowhere in 
 that wide expanse of desert and fertile valley could I descry 
 the least sign of wild goose. 
 
 My Bedouins produced for my gratification all sorts of 
 antiquities — old coins, old beetles, scarabsei, statuettes, &c, 
 
34 
 
 of wonderful value, which the}' swore they had picked up in 
 the tombs, and begged me to exchange them for the merest 
 trifle in the way of modern Egyptian coins ; but I had heard 
 of a celebrated manufactory in Birmingham for these things, 
 and was obdurate. 
 
 The descent, unlike that of Avernus, is far less easy than 
 the fatiguing climb up. On reaching the bottom my Bedouins 
 all shouted Hurrah ! hurrah ! and then came the question of 
 baksheesh. They all vowed they were honest men with 
 large families. One of them told me quite confidentially, as 
 though he was entrusting me with a profound secret, that it 
 did not pay to be dishonest, because, said he, " If I dishonest, 
 my money all fly away quick ; but if I honest, my money 
 stick to me — true." Many travellers, they said, were very 
 mean. When they took them up to the top and brought 
 them down without breaking their necks, they would go 
 away and give them nothing — nothing at all. "Ah, but 
 you good kind guv'nor. You' rich gentleman, like de 
 Prince of Wales. You give good baksheesh, sar ! " I paid 
 the sheik the two legitimate francs they were entitled to, 
 and gave them half-a-franc each besides. 
 
 "Now, guv'nor," said the doctor, "you give me two 
 francs, you see me run up to top of pyramid and down in 
 ten minutes ; " but I declined to give him even the one franc 
 which he finally proposed to do it for. 
 
35 
 
 I mounted my donkey and started off to survey the Sphinx 
 and the recently excavated Granite Temple. A Bedouin 
 sheik with a strip of magnesium now and then threw light 
 on the dark places in the wonderful chambers of this temple, 
 and pointed out the enormous slabs of alabaster and granite 
 of which they are built. 
 
 On my way I met the Marquis of Hartington and four 
 other members of his party all mounted on donkeys. I was 
 glad to find I was in the fashion. 
 
 Then my sure-footed donkey carried me by devious up 
 and down paths to the feet of the Sphinx — that wonderful, 
 broken-nosed, mild-eyed, smiling watchman of the desert. 
 There, suddenly, I came upon my Russian count. His 
 servant, in light blue livery lashed with white, was holding a 
 noble Arab steed with one hand and the count's double- 
 barrelled breech-loader with the other. The count himself 
 was assisting his friend in photographing the Sphinx. No 
 sooner did he catch sight of me on my donkey than he rushed 
 up to me as if we had been bosom friends for years. I think 
 he meant to kiss me on both cheeks, as the manner of his 
 people is ; but I was mounted, so he could not reach up, and 
 I did not reach down for the salute. I demanded what sport 
 he had had in the way of shooting. He said, "Ah! pas 
 encore ! pas encore ! I have not been. Vait a leetle vhile ; 
 I must vinish my photograph, den I go for snipes, and maybe 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 
 I shall shoot a vild goose. Certainment, I vill not forget my 
 promise to you. Goot-bye, my vriend. Adieu !" 
 
 We quitted the region of the pyramids, delighted with our 
 most interesting trip ; and I, still further buoyed up with 
 hope of securing my wild geese. Why need I despair? 
 Besides my good count I have enlisted the whole British 
 Army now stationed in Cairo. My kind friend the colonel 
 has started them all on the look out for wild geese on my 
 account. 
 
 Again, the real King of Egypt, the all-powerful and 
 popular Mr. Cook is on my side. I met him at lunch at the 
 colonel's one day. Naturally I started the subject of wild 
 geese. He was deeply interested at once. He is constantly 
 running up and down the Nile for a thousand miles or so, 
 and he promised to bring his whole influence to bear on the 
 capture of wild geese in the upper regions. 
 
 Once again I met him in the street. He put his hand on 
 his expansive bosom, and solemnly said, " I will not forget 
 your wild geese ! " Again, once more, let me say I have 
 enlisted Dr. Parke (Stanley's doctor) on my side. He is 
 seeking far and wide for wild geese. I may add, as a last 
 resort, I think I may in need count upon the assistance of 
 my great friend, the discoverer of Livingstone, of the sources 
 of the Nile, the rescuer of Emin Pasha, who, I believe, is as 
 ready as ever to oblige me — if my other efforts fail — and to 
 
"IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 37 
 
 start on a wild goose chase. What, then, can my old friend 
 
 Dr. W mean by saying that the search is a hopeless 
 
 one ; for, notwithstanding his statement that his friend, Sir 
 Henry Layard, who discovered the Nineveh bull, had failed 
 to find an Egyptian wild goose for him, I confidently expect 
 a ship-load before long. 
 
 Since my return home the gallant colonel has written to 
 me as follows : — 
 
 " My first attempt at getting you the goose feathers has 
 been a failure, as, though three guns blazed away from Lord 
 H. and Dr. L., no birds fell. However, we must live in 
 hopes of better luck up Nile." 
 
 I might have said before that on my outward journey in 
 passing down the Suez Canal I descried in the dim distance 
 thousands, it may be millions, of birds arranged in long, 
 long rows, like regiments of soldiers ; the rows seemed to be 
 tinged all along with a slight line of pink ; these I took to 
 be flamingos. Again I could descry other widely extended 
 regiments which did not exhibit the pink fringe. These I 
 took to be geese, and my hopes were excited. I thought, if 
 these are geese, and my count gets amongst them, I shall 
 soon be well supplied with goose skins. Now I am inclined 
 to think they were not geese but gulls. In fact, as I have 
 now learnt, these shy birds do not come down the Nile till 
 
38 
 
 HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 
 much later on in the season. At present they haunt the 
 upper regions of the river, a thousand miles away ; it is 
 away up there that my friends are on the look-out for them. 
 Again, therefore, I say, let not my friends be despondent. 
 Before the natural May-fly arises from the mud of the 
 river-beds, the material for making his most superb fac- 
 simile shall be with you. 
 
 The crocodile cannot, I suppose, be called a fish; but 
 being an amphibious reptile a description of the fun of 
 catching one should very properly find a place here. But I 
 did not catch one. I did not even see one. The march of 
 civilization and Cook's and Gaze's Nile boats, to say nothing 
 of the immense flotilla which during the late war Sir 
 Wm. F. Butler conveyed beyond the second cataract, have 
 driven the great saurians away back into the upper regions ; 
 still they are occasionally to be found in the neighbourhood 
 of Cairo. The fishermen sometimes find one fast asleep on 
 the sand banks with his jaws wide open, but it is not easy to 
 catch one napping ; one corner of his eye is always open, 
 and his jaws are always ready to close with a sudden snap 
 on the unwary. 
 
 The accompanying illustration is from a photograph ol 
 one caught and killed recently. This fellow seems to have 
 been shot ; but I am told that the Arabs of the Soudan fre- 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 4i 
 
 quently angle for it with large hooks baited with meat. A 
 kind of musk is obtained from its glands, and the flesh is 
 eaten by the Soudanese. I am growing homesick. 'Midst 
 crocodiles and pyramids though one may roam, one tires of 
 them at last. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Stanley's note-books, facsimiles of — Sitting for his portrait to Miss 
 Meyrick — Mr. Joseph Bell taking notes of illustrations — Visit of 
 Zebehr Pasha — Shoals of letters — An Austrian enthusiast wishes 
 to introduce forty compatriots — Astute briber}' — Quotations 
 from correspondence — Stanley's old cap wanted — " Is Stanley 
 in church? " — Grand balloon ascent — Terrific thunderstorm. 
 
 R. STANLEY'S memory for names, persons, and 
 events is quite marvellous, but in the compila- 
 tion of his book he by no means trusted to his 
 memory. His constant habit was to carry a small note- 
 book 6x3 inches in his side pocket : in this he pencilled 
 notes constantly and at every resting-place. Of these note- 
 books he has shown me six of about one hundred pages 
 each, closely packed with pencil memoranda. These notes, 
 at times of longer leisure, were expanded into six larger 
 
HOW STANLEY WROTE, ETC. 
 
 45 
 
 volumes of about two hundred pages each of very minute 
 and clear writing in ink. I append a fac-simile of a page 
 from one of these journals. In addition to these field note- 
 books and diaries, there are two large quarto volumes, 
 filled from cover to cover with calculations of astronomical 
 observations, etc. 
 
 One of the few diversions from the constant labour on his 
 book in which Mr. Stanley indulged during my residence 
 with him was sitting for his portrait to Miss E. M. Meyrick, 
 a student and silver medallist of the Royal Academy, who 
 was spending the winter in Cairo ; and the operation was 
 one in which the great traveller evidently took great pleasure. 
 I am not sure, however, that he was regarded by Miss 
 Meyrick as a model sitter. The painting had been commis- 
 sioned by Sir George Elliot, and was destined for the rooms 
 of the Royal Geographical Society of London. The portrait 
 is life-size and nearly full length, a defect in my humble 
 opinion, as it terminates abruptly below the knees, and I 
 could see no good reason why the feet should not have been 
 included ; as it is the legs and the iron-shod staff have the 
 look of being abruptly cut off. Apart from this, which may 
 be very inartistic criticism, the portrait struck me as being a 
 remarkably good and life-like one. 
 
 Another diversion, or rather distraction, from his work 
 was the necessary attention he had to give to the artist 
 
4 S 
 
 HO IV STANLEY WROTE 
 
 whom I had taken with me tor the purpose of making 
 working drawings for the various artists to be employed on 
 the illustrations. 
 
 Mr. Joseph Bell was an admirable sketcher, fertile in sug- 
 gestion, and quick at taking hints and notes, but somehow 
 he always managed to irritate Stanley by what may be called 
 his excessive verbosity, and the mischievous delight he always 
 took in endeavouring to land Stanley on the horns of some 
 dilemma. For example, he got him to describe the method 
 of getting a donkey across a deep river. Stanley explained 
 to him how the porter led the donkey into the stream, hold- 
 ing the bridle and keeping the donkey's head (which was 
 alone visible) out of the water, with one hand, and swim- 
 ming vigorously with the other hand. "Yes," said Bell; 
 " did the porter carry a rifle ? " "Of course," said Stanley. 
 "Yes," said Bell, "and in which hand did he carry the 
 rifle, seeing that one hand is already engaged in guiding and 
 helping the donkey, and the other in swimming for dear 
 life ? " This was a sort of fun which Stanley did not appre- 
 ciate. On the whole they were very good friends, but 
 Stanley could not endure the torture for more than two hours 
 a day, and he always rose from the encounter with a sigh of 
 relief and a wish that it was all over. 
 
 As regards the illustrations in his book, Mr. Stanley does 
 not pretend to be an artist, but during his whole journey, 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 51 
 
 and even under the most perilous conditions, he never failed 
 to make rough notes and sketches, or photographs, of the 
 most interesting scenes and events, and in this way he accu- 
 mulated abundant material. Of course, they were not in all 
 cases such as an artist could make a perfect picture from 
 without the aid of Stanley's accurate memory' and vivid 
 power of description. 
 
 The illustrations in this volume were obtained by Mr. Bell 
 for this special purpose. In order to insure accuracy of 
 detail, I obtained for him Mr. Stanley's sanction to take a 
 photograph of every scene ; and these photographs have 
 greatly assisted him. 
 
 Among the celebrities who called upon Mr. Stanley was 
 Zebehr Pasha, the great Soudan slave-dealer, of whom Gordon 
 had such a high opinion that he urged the Government to 
 appoint him as his successor at Khartoum, in 1883-84. He 
 remained some time chatting with Stanley. 
 
 It is needless to say that every mail brought Stanley shoals 
 of letters from all sorts and conditions of men, women, and 
 children, and from all parts of the world ; and his courier 
 was besieged by numbers of total strangers ready to bribe him 
 to any extent if only he could arrange for them to get even 
 a glance at him. 
 
 One day an Austrian enthusiast called and sent in a polite 
 note asking Stanley to fix a time when he might bring forty 
 
 e 2 
 
52 
 
 HO W STANLE Y WROTE 
 
 of his compatriots with him, all anxious for the opportunity 
 of shaking him by the hand. This astute gentleman accom- 
 panied his request by a very handsomely mounted cigar-case 
 as a souvenir. This elegant little present obtained for the 
 persevering stranger a brief interview for himself, but the 
 hand-shaking of his forty friends could not possibly be 
 entertained. 
 
 It has unfortunately happened that notwithstanding the 
 immense number of letters received, the practice has generally 
 been to destroy them after brief acknowledgment, otherwise 
 I should have had a very rich assortment placed at my dis- 
 posal ; as it is, I am permitted to make a few extracts from 
 the letters received by one or two of the last mails, which 
 had not yet been consigned to oblivion. 
 
 The first I quote from is one that touches me personally ; 
 it comes from the United States. 
 
 Dont let the publishers or the Lecture 'Bureau chaps worry you almost 
 to death, simply because the world wants to know more fully, and by 
 next week if possible, what you have done. 
 
 I am bound to admit the wisdom of these words. 
 Here is a charming little letter from a small school-girl in 
 Wales : 
 
 Dear Mr. Stanley : 
 
 I have been very much interested in hearing about your travels in 
 Africa, and should very much like to read your book,- as I am sure it 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 53 
 
 would be very interesting. I would much rather read about a geo- 
 graphical hero than a historical one. It was very kind of you to go 
 through such perils to rescue Emin Pasha. I liked so much to hear 
 of your fighting against the dwarfs, and should like to see one very 
 much ; they must look so funny, being so small. I am a little 
 
 school-girl at school, and I am eleven years old. I am very 
 
 fond of geography, and am always longing to go round the world, 
 
 I remain 
 
 Your little friend, 
 
 G. £. 
 
 Another enthusiast hailing from America asks for Mr. 
 Stanley's old cap. 
 
 Right glad am I that you are once more in a civilized country. I 
 have carefully watched your proceedings from the time you discovered 
 Livingstone. You are a brick I Now, if you are inclined to sell the 
 cap you wore through Africa, I am prepared to give you a fancy price 
 for it, to add to my collection of curiosities ; it shall be preserved in 
 a glass case with your name on same. 
 
 A firm of tobacconists makes the following cool request : 
 
 Will you kindly accord us your gracious permission to append 
 your noble name, and your photograph (might we ask for your auto- 
 graph ?) to a first-class quality of cigar and cigarette, made by 
 ourselves from the best and finest tobacco, &c. 
 
 A photographer writes : 
 
 Sir : Pray excuse the liberty taken by a stranger in approaching 
 you at a time when your hands and mind must be so full, but since 
 to satisfy the demands of an admiring public some one must claim 
 
54 
 
 HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 
 the proud position of performing the task I covet, that of executing a 
 portrait, etc. 
 
 A poetical soldier in Cairo says : 
 
 I humbly beg you will kindly accept the enclosed few simple lines 
 from a soldier. I am no poet, but have expressed myself as well as 
 possible, etc. 
 
 Mr. S. replied kindly to this, and has made the Cairo 
 soldier very proud. 
 
 The following letter is from an old acquaintance of the 
 Pocock days : 
 
 Dear Sir : Please to excuse me for the liberty I have taken in 
 writing to you, but in knowing you, an' taking a very great enterests 
 in you treavels, I congrelatue you on your safe return, hoping you 
 may long live to Injoy you ealth and hapness for your labours. I 
 have always taken great entrest in yours travels ever since we meet at 
 Zanzibar. . . . I ham the man that don your boat when the Pocock 
 Brothers was with you and I should lik a few lines from you, as I 
 should like them put in our papers here, etc. 
 
 One Sunday morning I went to church with Stanley's 
 secretary ; in the middle of the service the latter was touched 
 on the shoulder and a tiny slip of paper placed in his hands : 
 "Is Stanley in church ? " The secretary gave a slight shrug, 
 pointing gravely at me, sitting next him. Mr. Stanley's 
 hair is white : my hair is white ; there our resemblance 
 begins and ends. I was quite unconscious until I left the 
 
" IN DARKES'l AFRICA." 
 
 57 
 
 church that at least one individual had gone away happy in 
 the full belief that he had sat near the great explorer. 
 
 On that same Sunday evening all Cairo was astir with one 
 of the great events of the season — a grand balloon ascent 
 from the Ezbekiah Gardens, the closest and hottest evening 
 I had experienced in Cairo. The bright sunshine and the 
 variegated costumes of the inhabitants crowded in and all 
 round the gardens made a bright and pretty picture. The 
 balloon went up in gallant style and without any hitch. She 
 conveyed the General of the British Troops, a staff officer, 
 and the proprietor. No sooner had she sailed up and away 
 out of our sight than the sky became clouded, the air more 
 close and sultry, and a terrific thunderstorm burst over our 
 heads. The electric fluid seemed to have a special liking 
 for our hotel. It set all our electric bells a-ringing; the 
 waiters were terror-stricken, and hid themselves away in 
 cellars and behind doors. No serious accident happened. 
 Rain, the first I had seen, came down in torrents ; then all 
 cleared off and left us a cool and refreshing evening. 
 
 The balloon and its gallant guests, about whom great fears 
 were entertained, as they were supposed to be in the very 
 thick of the storm-cloud, landed safely some twenty miles 
 away, having steered clear of the storm the whole distance. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Stanley as I knew him — His belief in an overruling Providence — 
 Bidding adieu — My landlady presents me with a memento ot 
 yellow roses — They embarrass me as a solitary traveller — Gift 
 to a fellow-traveller, who promises to preserve every petal as 
 coming from Stanley's garden — Arrival at the Hotel Abbat, 
 Alexandria — On board the Euterpe — Meet the Vorwarts signalling 
 for help — A brother publisher on board — Hastening to visit 
 Stanley — Excitement in America about the Book — Rival pub- 
 lishers and rival books. 
 
 R. STANLEY was no stranger to me when I first 
 arrived here. My whole experience of him most 
 fully confirmed the opinion I have always held, 
 through good report and evil report, for the last eighteen 
 years. That he is the greatest explorer of modern times 
 will scarcely be gainsaid by his bitterest enemies ; but 
 beyond the possession, in an unusual degree, of the qualifica- 
 tions for a successful explorer, it is impossible to live long 
 
HO W ST A NLE Y WROTE, E TC. 
 
 59 
 
 with him in the intimacy in which I have lived without 
 discovering in him many other of the characteristics which 
 go to make a good and great man, a ruler of men. His 
 conversation, frequently impassioned, was always elevated 
 and pure, carrying with it the conviction of truthfulness and 
 earnestness of purpose ; his conception of duty high and 
 nob!e ; his scorn of everything sordid and mean strong and 
 withering ; he is truthful and sincere, and without a tinge of 
 envy or malice. He is generous, even lavish in his gifts. 
 Notwithstanding his iron will, his heart is as tender as a 
 child's. That his mind is imbued with a reverential belief 
 in an overruling Providence is constantly exhibited in his 
 conversation. 
 
 "I am not," said he, "what is called superstitious. I 
 believe in God, the Creator of the Universe . . . Many 
 forms of belief and curious ideas respecting the great mystery 
 of our being and creation have been suggested to me during 
 my life and its wanderings, but after weighing each, and 
 attempting to understand what must be unsearchable, my 
 greatest comfort has been in peacefully resting firm in the 
 faith of my sires. For all the human glory that surrounds 
 the memory of Darwin and his wise compeers throughout 
 advanced Europe, I would not abate a jot or tittle of my 
 belief in the Supreme God and that Divine man called His 
 Son." 
 
6o 
 
 HO W STANLE Y WROTE 
 
 In the existence of supernatural agencies, and judging by 
 the story of "Randy and the Guinea Fowl," which he 
 related in his recent article in Scribner's Magazine, it is 
 evident that miracles presented no stumbling-block to him. 
 
 He is certainly not immaculate. I have seen and known 
 something of his strong and passionate nature, but I have 
 read in this book something, too, of his wonderful self- 
 control under the most trying circumstances in which a man 
 could be placed. Take him for all in all, I think it may well 
 be said of him that he does not make the high place he has 
 reached 
 
 "A lawless perch 
 Of winged ambitions, nor a vantage-ground 
 For pleasure ; but through all this tract of years 
 Wearing the white flower of a Blameless Life." 
 
 I bade adieu to Mr. Stanley on the 3rd of March, with my 
 portmanteau stuffed with manuscripts, glass negatives, and 
 maps. 
 
 He worked at his manuscript with as much ardour as when 
 (to quote Gerald Massey), — 
 
 " He strode o'er streams and mountains, 
 
 To free the leaguered band : 
 He stood by Nile's far fountains, 
 
 Lord of the old Dark Land ! 
 Where Death the forest haunted, 
 
 And never dawned the day, 
 He pierced the glocm undaunted, — 
 
 For that was Stanley's way." 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA:' 
 
 6i 
 
 On leaving the Hotel Villa Victoria the good landlady 
 presented me with a large bouquet of beautiful orange-yellow 
 roses, gathered from her garden. It was very good and 
 thoughtful of her ; but what could I, a solitary traveller, do 
 with so interesting a souvenir ? 
 
 A small deputation from the Hotel accompanied me to the 
 railway station. I found myself face to face in the railway 
 carriage with a charming young English girl, who with her 
 father and mother were the only occupants. I begged the 
 young lady to accept at least a portion of my roses. They 
 had been up the Nile, and being all three very good artists, 
 had brought away with them innumerable well-executed 
 sketches and drawings of ruins, pillars, inscriptions from 
 Karnak and all the other well-known ruins on the river. 
 They had a large collection of Egyptian antiquities, such as a 
 mummified sacred cat, old pots, pans, coins, and beetles ; 
 but when they heard that these identical roses once grew in 
 Stanley's garden every other Egyptian object became insigni- 
 ficant. Every petal of those roses is now, I'll warrant, most 
 carefully preserved in some safe receptacle at home. 
 
 I lost sight of these new friends in Alexandria, where I 
 spent only one night at the Hotel Abbat. By eight o'clock 
 next morning I was on board the Italian steamer Euterpe 
 bound for Brindisi. The weather was squally, and the sea 
 turbulent. 
 
62 
 
 HO W STANLE Y WRO TE 
 
 In mid-Mediterranean we met the Austrian Lloyd's boat 
 the Vorwarts going East. This steamer was crippled by a 
 broken screw, and signalled ours for help, but eventually she 
 sailed away without our assistance. 
 
 It was a remarkable circumstance that on board the crippled 
 boat was Mr. Arthur Scribner, Stanley's American publisher, 
 who had crossed the Atlantic, and was on his way to pay 
 Stanley a visit at Cairo, where also he expected to find me. 
 I could have hailed him from our boat had I known of his 
 being on the Vorwarts. 
 
 Great as the interest felt about Mr. Stanley has been in 
 Europe, it seems to have been far more intense in America, 
 the country of which he is a naturalized citizen ; this was 
 shown by the eagerness with which any, even the slightest 
 scrap of information about Mr. Stanley and his movements was 
 seized upon by the newspapers. It was also made plain by 
 the large amount of correspondence which every mail brought 
 to him from across the Atlantic ; but perhaps a still greater 
 proof of his popularity in the United States was the fact of 
 the very keen competition amongst American publishers of 
 the first class which resulted in Messrs. Chas. Scribner's Sons 
 obtaining the copyright and entire control of his great work 
 or the United States and Canada. This competition was 
 legitimate, bold, spirited ; and Messrs. Scribner's enterprise 
 gained them the honour of becoming Mr. Stanley's publishers. 
 
" IN DARK EST AFRICA." 
 
 Another consequence of Mr. Stanley's popularity has been 
 the fact of other publishers announcing by showy and mis- 
 leading advertisements, books pretending to be what they 
 were not and could not be, viz., the great work of which 
 Mr. Stanley had not then issued a line. 
 
 The story I have already told is sufficient proof that such 
 bogus and unscrupulous announcements were utterly mis- 
 leading. Books made of old and outside material, and ot 
 electros from illustrations which have done their duty years 
 ago, may in themselves be allowable so long as they do not 
 trench on some one else's copyright ; but to foist such things 
 on the public as being Mr. Stanley's new work is as con- 
 temptible as it is mischievous, and the public cannot be too 
 strongly warned against them. 
 
 Of course these invaders 1 of the legitimate rights of Mr. 
 Stanley and his publishers had an enormous advantage over 
 them in being able to get up promptly for canvassing purposes 
 
 1 They had even invaded the Australasian Colonies. Here is an 
 extract from a letter recently received from a bookseller at Dunedin : 
 *' The excitement here is tremendous, and scarcely anything else but 
 Stanley is spoken of : any scraps of news about his meetings, speeches, 
 &o, are eagerly read. I cannot express in writing the tremendous 
 admiration all colonists have for the explorer. Three American book- 
 hawkers are doing terrible damage here by persuading people to buy 
 a hash-up of Stanley's travels. ... I am trying to bring some of 
 these canvassers to book." 
 
THE MAN WHO COULD NOT TELL A LIE. 
 (Does he look like it?) 
 
 Notice. — This man is not employed by the New York 
 concern that republished the two-volume English Stanley. 
 They would have no use for him. 
 
 HEROES OF THE DARK CONTINENT. 
 — The Great and Only Genuine and Complete 
 History of Africa and African Exploration, 
 including Stanley's Last Expedition. — Tre- 
 mendous Success of this Great Standard Work. 
 
 NEW PLATES! NEW EDITION!! EVERYTHING NEW!!! 
 
 The above is facsimile from an advertisement of this work 
 is only a specimen of many similar ones. 
 
65 
 
 sample volumes, with flashy pictures and extravagant bindings, 
 and matter made up from the very scant material supplied in 
 Mr. Stanley's already published letters, bumped out by other 
 matter pillaged from his previous works ; whilst the legitimate 
 publishers could show nothing, simply because the book had 
 not yet been written, and the illustrations were still in Mr. 
 Stanley's sketch-book, and he himself thousands of miles 
 away. 
 
 It was with a view of counteracting this persistent and 
 pernicious lying that Mr. Arthur Scribner crossed the Atlantic, 
 and pursued me to Cairo, in order, if possible, to get some- 
 thing to prove to his misled countrymen that they were being 
 grossly imposed upon. Before he arrived at Cairo I had left 
 there. We met, as I have said, in mid-Mediterranean. 
 
 He went on to Cairo, saw the great man, and obtained the 
 following open letter from him. 
 
 " Notice to the American Public. 
 " I beg distinctly to state that the only publishers iu America who 
 have any authority to publish anything whatever of mine are Messrs. 
 Scribner's Sons and Messrs. Harper Brothers. My new and shortly 
 forthcoming work, ' In Darkest Africa,' is exclusively in the hands 
 of Messrs. Charles Scribner's Sons, and I cannot too emphatically 
 condemn the conduct of a firm calling itself the Historical Publishing 
 Company, who, in the name of truth and justice, put forth an ad- 
 vertisement headed ' Look out I Do not be deceived ! ' which is 
 •hiade uj) of the most barefaced falsehoods. 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 HO W S7ANLE Y WROTE, E TC. 
 
 " The work which they announce as ' Heroes of the Dark Con- 
 tinent ' I repudiate entirely. They say it contains all my forthcoming 
 work and a great deal more. I emphatically deny this statement. 
 
 " I have simply to say once for all that these people can by no 
 possibility publish anything of mine but what they have dishonestly 
 appropriated from my previous works ; and being an American 
 citizen, and therefore holding my copyright there, I shall in due time 
 take proper measures to protect myself against such unprincipled 
 robbery. 
 
 " I am aware that several other publishers are announcing spurious 
 works purporting to be mine. I therefore think it high time that all 
 my good friends in America should be put on their guard, and bear 
 in mind that my authorised work will be called ' In Darkest Africa,' 
 in two volumes, and will be published only by Messrs. Charles 
 Scribner's Sons. 
 
 " Henry M. Stanley." 
 
 Then Mr. Scribner climbed to the top of the tallest pyramid, 
 took a general survey of the land of Egypt, and returned to 
 Europe next day. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Arrival at Brindisi — Trip up the harbour to a vine-grower's chateau 
 — Virgil's cottage — Naples in a mist — Rome in a torrent of 
 rain — Sight-seeing under difficulties — Milan Cathedral in the 
 early morning — Arrival at Paris — Arrangements with the Artist 
 M. Riou — Train de Luxe — Home — Proofs despatched to Cairo — • 
 Dinner to Stanley by his Publishers — Statistics about the book — 
 Stanley's speech — The Book is published — And Stanley 
 married . 
 
 HE weather continued rough and boisterous, my 
 personal experience of the Mediterranean was 
 not satisfactory, and I was glad to get ashore 
 at Brindisi — too late for the morning train for Naples 
 and Rome. Brindisi is not a very lively place whereat to 
 spend even a few hours. I was fortunate in making acquaint- 
 ance on the quay with a young Italian who invited me to 
 join him in a boat; he took me two or three miles up the 
 
 F 2 
 
68 
 
 HO IV ST A NL E Y WROTE 
 
 eastern arm of the harbour and landed me at a charming 
 chateau on the opposite side— which he then told me was his 
 father's summer residence — a lovely spot surrounded by very 
 prettily laid out gardens of flowers and orange and lemon 
 trees, and many acres of vineyard. He invited me to join 
 him in a bottle of most delicious old Italian wine, which, 
 however, he was careful to tell me did not grow there — for 
 the grapes produced in that part of the country are too coarse ; 
 it is therefore all shipped to the north to mix with other and 
 finer sorts. My young acquaintance pointed out to me the 
 spot where once stood the cottage in which Virgil died. He 
 said that it belonged to his father, who had tried in vain to 
 induce the Italian government to purchase this classic resi- 
 dence ; but the government did not seem to care about Virgil 
 or his cottage, and his father cared very much more about 
 the money value of the place — so he pulled it down and 
 built a modern residence on the spot. 
 
 I started by the night-train for Naples, and arrived in the 
 early morning, waking up just in time to get a glimpse now 
 and then of Vesuvius, smoking away as usual when he is not 
 flaming. It was a dreary morning, the sky leaden and 
 dismal. The glimpse I caught of the Bay of Naples was not 
 encouraging — drizzling rain and a murky atmosphere reminded 
 me more of what I had to look forward to in. my native land 
 in the month of March than the sunny south of Italy. J 
 
6 9 
 
 may say that I saw nothing of Naples. I had to hurry on 
 with my precious portmanteau, which I never lost sight of. 
 We lett Naples at 7 a.m. and I arrived at Rome, Hotel 
 d'Angleterre, very unwell and in a downpour of rain. 
 
 Next morning I got up at six o'clock, wrote many letters, 
 and after breakfast, as no English guide could be found at 
 that time of day, I had to content myself with an Italian 
 coachman to drive me round. He was mighty civil and 
 communicative ; he pointed to the principal sights with 
 much enthusiasm— but as he spoke Italian, of which I 
 knew but very few words, the valuable information he 
 gave was wholly lost upon me. We crossed the muddy, 
 murky Tiber, passed under the walls of the frowning 
 fortress of St. Angelo, and so on to St. Peter's — where 
 I lingered for a few most interesting minutes— then we 
 clambered up the hill to Tasso's Garden, from whence we 
 saw the whole of the City of Rome at our feet, and the 
 Albanian Mountains in the distance. Hard by, we looked 
 in at a convent, and I was shown the grave of St. Peter 
 — looking down into which a polite monk drew up with a 
 long scoop a small quantity of the mould, which, for aught 
 I knew, may be a bit of St. Peter himself " turned to dust 
 it cost me a franc, and is now deposited as a precious reiic 
 in my pocket-book. 
 
 We descended the hill by another route, re-crossed the 
 
7 o 
 
 HO W S7ANLE Y WRO TE 
 
 river by an old wooden bridge — then I had a hasty run 
 through the Capitol, looked into several churches, passed 
 Trajan's Monument — drove down to the Colisseum — back 
 to the hotel by 12.30 — had lunch, and at 1.30 I was in the 
 
 rain bound for Paris. 
 
 Thus, mainly owing to this precious portmanteau which 
 haunted me day and night, was I compelled to quit this 
 beautiful city, almost without seeing it — a lost opportunity 
 never likely to recur for me. 
 
 Leaving Rome at 1.30 p.m. on Sunday, we arrived at 
 Milan next morning at 7.30. I ran round the city before 
 the shops were open ; had a glance at the exterior and 
 
 interior of the beautiful Cathedral, and left by 9.15 train the 
 
 same morning for Paris, which I reached on Tuesday 
 
 morning very early. 
 
 I completed arrangements with M. Riou to make a certain 
 
 number of drawings for the great book, and settled other 
 
 matters with the French publishers (MM. Hachette & Co.). 
 
 I left by the Train de Luxe at about 2.30, and reached home 
 
 by midnight. 
 
 On the 1 2th of March I placed a large portion of the MS. 
 of Vol. I. in the hands of Messrs. Clowes, and on the 
 evening of the 14th proofs of the same were despatched to 
 Cairo. 
 
 Thenceforward everything went smoothly and rapidly, till 
 
11 IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 7i 
 
 finally on June 28 the great book made its appearance in 
 at least ten European languages, printed in the different 
 countries. It had fallen to my lot to make all needful arrange- 
 ments for simultaneous publication in all these countries. As 
 the work progressed through the press, first, second, and 
 third sets of proof sheets, electros of all illustrations, and 
 transfers of maps were systematically and simultaneously 
 despatched to nearly every country in Europe, and also to 
 America. 
 
 Thus editions of " In Darkest Africa " have already appeared 
 in their different languages in England, America, Germany, 
 France, Italy, Spain, Norway, Sweden, Holland, Bohemia, 
 Hungary, and arrangements are in progress for the publication 
 in Russian and Arabic. 
 
 Two days before the publication of the book, a compli- 
 mentary dinner was given to Mr. Stanley by his publishers— 
 at the Holborn Restaurant (June 26). 
 
 Mr. Edward Marston occupied the chair, and amongst those present 
 were, besides the guest of the evening, the Bishop of Ripon, Rev. 
 W. Martin, the Rev. H. R. Haweis, and Rev. F. W. Low, Sir 
 Ford North, Mr. R. D. Blackmore, Mr. William Black, Mr. Thomas 
 Hardy, Mr. H. H. Johnston, Mr. Henty, Mr. Joseph Hatton, 
 Mr. A. J. Mounteney-Jephson, Mr. P. Du Chaillu, Mr. F. A. 
 Inderwick, Q,C, Mr. J. E. H. Gordon, Mr. C. J. Moberley Bell 
 (of the Times), Mr. N. Maccoll, Editor of the ^Athenaum, Mr. J. R. 
 Robinson {Daily 'JsLews), Mr. Wemyss Reed, Mr. Stuart J. Reed, 
 
HO W STANLE Y WROTE 
 
 Mr. Bram Stoker, Stuart Cumberland, Captain Abney, H. H. 
 Howorth, M.P., Mr. Crosby Lockwood, Mr. Sotberan, Mr. L. K. 
 Wilson, Mr. Mudie, Mr. W. Senior, &c. 
 
 The French publishers were represented by MM. Fouret 
 and Kleinau, and the American publishers by Mr. Bangs, 
 and the artists by Monsieur Riou and Mr. Sydney P. Hall. 
 The printers by Messrs. W. C. K. Clowes and E. A. Clowes ; 
 the paper-makers by Mr. F. P. Barlow, and the engravers 
 by Mr. J. D. Cooper, together with many other friends. 
 
 One can but very roughly estimate the number of copies 
 that have been printed in the different countries. 
 
 The Chairman on the above occasion made the following 
 remarks on the statistics of the work : — 
 
 " Tbe work contains, rougbly speaking, a thousand pages of forty 
 lines each. On January 25 of this year, not a line of it had been 
 written. Then it was that Mr. Stanley sat down at the Villa Victoria 
 in Cairo, with a firm determination that nothing earthly should stop 
 him till he bad finished it. In fifty days he completed his self- 
 imposed task, or rather the task which he says I imposed upon him. 
 This means that he not merely wrote out, but he had to think out, 
 twenty pages, say, 8000 words, a day. Gentlemen, if you wish to 
 know what an amount of endurance and perseverance that means, I 
 recommend you to try the experiment yourselves. It is easy enough 
 to write twenty very long pages a day, for one, two, or three days, 
 but to keep on doing so for fifty days consecutively, without any 
 break or relaxation whatever to speak of, is quite another matter. 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 73 
 
 Now let me glance at the manufacture of these volumes. In view 
 of the enormous amount of public interest felt in this book I see no 
 objection for once to depart from our usual reticence in such matters, 
 and to say that we have orders in the house for, and on Saturday morn- 
 ing we shall despatch, over 16,000 copies, besides 6000 of a colonial 
 edition, and other issues. You know the whole thing had to be 
 rushed through the press, and I assure you it has taxed the resources 
 of Messrs. Clowes' vast establishment for many weeks. To produce 
 this book in the way it has been produced required something more 
 than mere routine work. It required a thoughtful guiding spirit — 
 one who would devote heart and soul to the work, and we cannot 
 feel too grateful to Captain Clowes for the extraordinary devotion 
 and personal attention he has given to the accomplishment of this 
 task. In the printing department the work has found employment 
 for many weeks for 60 compositors, 17 readers, 12 reading boys, and 
 about 200 machine-pressmen and warehousemen. The paper con- 
 sumed in printing the edition de luxe, the colonial edition, the can- 
 vassing edition, and the trade edition weighs 652 tons. This paper, 
 if it had been laid out in single sheets, would have formed a white 
 carpet for Mr. Stanley to have walked upon from the Congo to 
 Zanzibar, or if laid sheet upon sheet it would have formed a tower 
 something like the Tour Eiffel. The type and material used weighed 
 7 j tons, and there were 2,500,000 types used in each of the above 
 editions. Eighteen steam printing machines and ten hand presses 
 consumed i£ ton of printing ink. Then as to the binding, we had 
 to get bound in a fortnight, in all, about 40,000 volumes. These 
 have given employment to over 500 men and 600 women. About 
 4,500 yards, or nearly 2\ miles of binders' cloth were consumed on 
 these editions. Now, as there have been produced simultaneously 
 in America and on the Continent about ten other editions, I think I 
 
74 
 
 HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 
 should not be far out in stating that it would be quite within the 
 mark to multiply all the figures I have mentioned by 7 or 8. 
 Taking the latter estimate, Mr. Stanley may comfort himself with 
 the reflection that during the last four months his fifty days' labour 
 of brain and pen has given employment to an army of probably 
 seven thousand men and at least as many women and girls, and 
 probably the aggregate weight of all the editions which will be issued 
 simultaneously on Saturday will exceed three hundred tons." 
 
 I think I may properly close this " Story of the book" by 
 quoting in full Mr. Stanley's amusing and interesting speech 
 delivered on this unique occasion. 
 
 Mr. Stanley in responding to the toast of his health said : 
 " Mr. Chairman and gentlemen, you have heard some sta- 
 tistics from Mr. Marston, the principal publisher of Sampson 
 Low & Co. Some years ago we met in this hotel before to 
 celebrate another and similar event. And I was happy to 
 see our friend Mr. Johnston on that occasion (cheers). I 
 am glad to see that time has dealt so kindly with you all. 
 You all seem to me just as young as ever, and I am happy 
 to say I feel as well as ever (laughter and cheers), though 
 probably I have been snowed upon a little as I was passing 
 by the mountain of Ruwenzori. Mr. Marston tells you that 
 the great book will be out on Saturday morning. I am 
 very glad to hear it. I think it ought to have been out a 
 month ago (great laughter). I have been impatiently waiting 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA:' 
 
 75 
 
 in order that I might take leave of you all (No, no) and 
 enjoy that holiday that I am hungering for. It has been a 
 pleasure to me to think that it has given so much occupation 
 to so many people. It was only the other evening that it 
 inspired Mr. Henty to make a brilliant exhortation to the 
 savages of London to behave themselves better. I am sure 
 it has given a great deal of pleasure to many here. I see 
 Mr. Marston, Mr. Searle, Mr. Rivington, and young Mr. 
 Marston, who will uphold, I suppose, the fortunes of Sampson 
 Low & Co. for another generation. As I look round I see 
 a great many faces here beaming with delight as they hear 
 that the great work is about to come out. It is the work of 
 We, Us, & Co. There is Mr. Keltie ; there is Mr. Jephson, — 
 he is tapping Mr. Keltie with high approval there, 'Go it, 
 old fellow': — he has also had something to do with it. I 
 see Mr. Moberley Bell, he has had something to do with it, 
 and Mr. Bates too. And I see our friend the Bishop here ; 
 he is also going to have a hand in it before he finishes with 
 it, for on a solemn occasion he is going to call upon a lady 
 to love, honour and obey me. (Great laughter.) The 
 subject in reality of this evening's speech ought to be 1 The 
 Book,' Mr. Marston, because you have told us it has given 
 employment to 7000 men, and as many women and girls. 
 It has cost us three years' labour, and an immense pile of 
 money. Mr. Hatton has had a small hand in it. Mr. Wilson, 
 
76 
 
 HOW STANLEY WROTE 
 
 too, has been very busy with it. I believe he has copied it 
 all over with his own right hand. In fact, there is scarcely 
 one here who has not an interest in it either as an orator or 
 as a gentleman about to give his benediction. I could say 
 a good deal more than I have in that book. However, I 
 have confined myself to the narrative, as we swung our way 
 through Africa, about those lakes and through East Africa, 
 to rest in Zanzibar, and somehow or other it seems like a 
 dream which has brought us all together to the place from 
 whence we started some five years ago. I have confined 
 myself to the narrative of the march. I might have spun it 
 out to ten volumes. There's many and many an incident 
 that I might have given, but I wanted to keep some plums 
 for that occasion when I should find myself resting in 
 some cottage, with a wife and children around me, and I 
 shall then recall some happy occasions or some dismal 
 scenes, and then probably I shall feel it worth my while 
 to record it in another fashion altogether. There's one 
 thing especially I have kept back, and that I have touched 
 but little, and that is on the dismalities of the march from 
 the Albert Nyanza to the East Coast. I shall never be 
 able, I feel sure, to give you a true record of the troubles 
 which beset us day and night from the Albert Nyanza to the 
 Indian Ocean. I have touched upon it but very little. They 
 who can read between the lines will be able to see it. But 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 77 
 
 I wish some time to pass by so that the bitterness and agony 
 of the march may be forgotten and I can see only the romance 
 of it. I have been scolded frequently since I have re- 
 turned from Africa in regard to Emin. I wish some years 
 to roll by before all that we might have said could be said 
 with as large amount of charity as possible. You will find 
 in reading those chapters applying, to Emin that you have 
 a strange character for the first time brought before you, 
 and it is probable that there is some rising novelist here 
 who may find it worth his while to study that character a 
 little more. I may say truthfully it is the first character ot 
 the sort I have met. At the same time I know no great harm 
 about Emin, but I will leave him to the editor of the Pall 
 Mall Gazette or the recondite editor of the Times. If I were 
 accustomed to having dinners of this kind during the last 
 three and a half years, I might possibly think it was unneces- 
 sary to dwell too greatly upon these things, but what I wish 
 to do is to make a consistent character throughout from the 
 beginning as a person who had given his promise to fulfil a 
 solemn obligation to people who had asked him to relieve or 
 rescue, as might be necessary, and I wish to say that, prompt 
 as I have been to carry that relief, I kept myself as much as 
 possible in the background. You will find as you skim over 
 the pages that I have dwelt mostly upon the geography of 
 the country and upon the tribes and their characteristics in 
 
HOW STANLEY- WROTE 
 
 order to convey to you as much information as possible in 
 regard to Africa and its interior. That was the basis upon 
 which I began my book. Each of you will be able to 
 criticise in your own way, charitably or uncharitably, as 
 your livers or spleens may direct. I cannot say that any- 
 thing we have done on this expedition has been perfect. All 
 I ask you to remember is that we did it as well as we were 
 capable of doing. It was all very well to promise to the 
 Committee that we would do our duty, but there was a 
 further obligation imposed upon us that we would do it 
 kindly, with as much benefit to the black man and white 
 man as possible. I venture to say, when you finish that 
 book and close with my thanks to the Divinity that kept us 
 safe across Africa, you will admit that we have been as kind 
 as the circumstances of human nature would permit us. 
 Mr. Marston, and gentlemen of the firm of Sampson Low 
 & Co., no one knows what the future may bring forth. I 
 don't know that I shall ever enter Africa again. If I do, 
 you may rest assured that the commission that I shall then 
 have been entrusted with shall be my sole and only object 
 irrespective of what any reporter or correspondent or editor 
 may say. As I exact from myself the obeying of orders, I 
 exact the same from those under me or who accompany me, 
 inasmuch as I believe that every man ought to fulfil his 
 promise to the letter. All I can boast of is, that I have 
 
 4 
 
" IN DARKEST AFRICA." 
 
 79 
 
 always held that promise before me as though I carried a 
 banner written ' Thou shalt keep thy promise.' Next week 
 I am expected to answer a number of questions of a strictly 
 missionary character, which I shall be most happy to do, 
 and I only wish that on occasions like the present guests 
 could have the opportunity of asking questions. If, for 
 instance, Mr. Robinson asked me about Home Rule or 
 Mr. Henty about the savages of Africa, I could answer them. 
 Taking you all and all, I feel it extremely difficult to touch 
 upon any subject such as could win your universal approval, 
 and therefore I hope you will permit me to curtail my 
 effusion and close my scattered remarks by saying that I am 
 in duty bound to you not only for the manner in which you 
 come into this hall and partake ot this gorgeous feast, but 
 also for the silence with which you have listened to the few 
 remarks I have delivered. I could say a great deal if I knew 
 what special points would suit you, but, until I know, pray 
 allow me to tell you that I am extremely indebted to you ; 
 and on Saturday morning, when you get that book, of which 
 Mr. Marston has told you, you will give me your ideas of it. 
 I see M. Fouret is here. Fortunately there is not a French- 
 man vilified in it. (Laughter.) I don't think I have abused 
 a single German either, or a single Englishman, therefore I 
 ought to secure the goodwill of the Englishman, and I am 
 quite sure that there is not a Scotchman that I have 
 
So HO W STANLE Y WROTE, E TC. 
 
 animadverted upon. As to what you hold dear, that I most 
 admire. If there is a thing you admire, I assure you I also 
 admire it. It is all due to this book. (Laughter.) It is 
 related in some form or other to this book of ours. 
 (Laughter.) I hope from my heart, and you know why — 
 (laughter) — that you will have a very large sale (laughter), and 
 that you will reap a large profit, and that you will be ready 
 to publish another book on another occasion, and that the 
 firm of Sampson Low & Co. will go on publishing African 
 oooks. Mr. Chairman and gentlemen, let me express to you 
 my unbounded delight at seeing you all ; and as time has 
 dealt with you so lightly in the past, let us hope that it will 
 deal as lightly with you in the future, and that some day we 
 may meet again (loud applause)." 
 
 This speech has this special interest attached to it : it is, I 
 believe, his last speech, and appropriately closes his career as 
 a bachelor. 
 
 Now, as a Benedict, may he sing,— 
 
 "My port is found. Farewell, ye freaks of chance ; 
 The dance ye led me, now let others dance," 
 
 He has known how — 
 
 "To scorn delights and live labori jus days." 
 
 he has won the fame he has so long and so nobly struggled 
 for ; may he rest and he thankful ! 
 
 LONDON' : l'RINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS IN AFRICA. 
 
 Mr. Stanley says, in his work, "The Congo Free 
 State : " — " Your best tonic would be 2 grains of 
 quinine as compressed in ' Tabloids,' by Burroughs, 
 Wellcome & Co., of Snow Hill Buildings, London. 
 These chemists have prepared drugs which I can 
 conscientiously recommend. They have prepared 
 small doses in 'Tabloids' of nearly every medicine 
 that may be required, which may be taken without 
 creating nausea, a valuable desideratum." 
 
 In the famous explorer's last and greatest work, 
 " In Darkest Africa," occurs the following passage : — 
 " Messrs. Burroughs, Wellcome & Co., of Snow Hill 
 Buildings, London, E.C., the well-known chemists, 
 furnished gratis, nine beautiful chests replete with 
 every medicament necessary to combat endemic 
 disease peculiar to Africa. Every drug was in 
 1 Tabloids ' mixed with quick solvents, every com- 
 partment was well stocked with essentials for the 
 doctor and surgeon. Nothing was omitted, and we 
 all owe a deep debt of gratitude to these gentlemen, 
 not only for the intrinsic value of these chests and 
 excellent medicines, but also for the personal selection 
 of the best that London could furnish, and the 
 supervision of the packing, by which means we were 
 enabled to transport them to Yambuya without 
 damage." 
 
 Again, the Editor of the Btitish Medical Journal 
 writes (July 12th, 1890) as follows: — "Surgeon 
 Parke has personally informed us that the con- 
 centrated preparations and ' Tabloids ' retained their 
 efficiency throughout the whole journey, and were of 
 the utmost value by reason of their efficiency and 
 portability." 
 
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 A SUMMARY of the DRILL and WORKING of 
 
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AD VER T IS E ME NTS. 
 
 3rntet£$tmg jflflemento of tfie gbtanlen anfr 
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 A SERIES OF EIGHT PORTRAITS, 
 
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 Mr. H. M. STANLEY. 
 LIEUT. STAIRS. 
 SURGEON PARKE. 
 CAPTAIN NELSON. 
 Mr. MOUNTENEY-JEPHSON. 
 Mr. W. BONNY. 
 
 THE SWAZI-LAND BOYS, "GOOTOO" AND 
 " INYOKWANA." also, 
 
 TEN VIEWS the PRINCIPAL EXHIBITS: 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF THE EXHIBITION. 
 
 GENERAL VIEW— SOUTH SIDE OF THE EXHI- 
 BITION. 
 
 MASAI-LAND COLLECTION. 
 
 EAST CENTRAL AFRICAN COLLECTION. 
 
 NYASSA-LAND COLLECTION. 
 
 TANGANYIKA COLLECTION. 
 
 CENTRAL SOUTH AFRICAN COLLECTION. 
 
 CONGO BASIN COLLECTION. 
 
 LOWER NIGER REGION COLLECTION. 
 
 CONGO STATE AND NIGER REGION COLLEC- 
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AD VERTISEMENTS. 
 
 Mr. Mounteney-Jephson's New Work {with revision and co- 
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 London: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON, Ltd. 
 
AD VERTISEMENTS. 
 
 $o0k0 on Qfxkmx Ixabel, 
 
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 THE CONGO and the FOUNDING of its FREE STATE : 
 
 Story of Work and Exploration. 2 vols., demy 8vo. With over 100 
 full page and smaller Illustrations, 2 large Maps and several smaller 
 ones. Cloth extra, 21J. 
 " Mr. Stanley may fairly boast of having given to the world two of the 
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 in every respect by far the more interesting. . . . His two handsome volumes 
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 prospects of the great African continent." — Athenattm. 
 
 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE: including Four Months' 
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 Crown 8vo., cloth, y. 6d. The Unabridged Edition, superior in 
 paper and binding, and with the Original Maps, price 7*. 6d., can 
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 The reader may follow him with unflagging interest from his start to his 
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 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT ; from the Indian 
 
 to the Atlantic Ocean. With Map and Illustrations. Crown 8vo., 
 cloth, 2 s - The Unabridged Edition, superior in paper and bind- 
 
 ing, and with the Original Maps, price 12s. 6d., can still be obtained. 
 "Every page contains the record of some strange adventure, or the note 
 of some valuable observation. . . . We lay down the book with a feeling of 
 admiration for the courage of the explorer and of respect for his powers of 
 observation and great industry." — Fall Mall Gazette. 
 
 MY KALULU : Prince, King, and Slave. By H. M. Stanley. 
 
 Crown 8vo., cloth, 2s. bd. ; gilt edges, 35-. 6d. (Forming one of the 
 Volumes in '"Low's Series ot Standard Books for Boys.") 
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 trated Paper. 
 
 THE HEART OF AFRICA : being Three Years' Travels and 
 Adventures in the Unexplored Regions of Central Africa. By Dr. 
 Ge©rg Schweinfurth. New Edition. 2 vols., crown 8vo., 
 numerous Illustrations and Map, cloth, y. 6d. per Volume. 
 
 TWO KINGS OF UGANDA; or, Life by the Shores of the 
 
 Victoria Nyanza. Being an account of a Residence of Six Years in 
 Eastern Equatorial Africa. By Rev. Robert P. A she, F.R.G.S., 
 F.R.H.S., etc. New and Cheaper Edition. With Map and Illustra- 
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