!♦ ;Vi i Number LION FROM CNIDUS, ANCIENT HISTORY i FROM THE MONUMENTS. GREEK CITIES & ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR, BY / W. S. W. VAUX, M.A., F.R.S. PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE COMMITTEE OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION APPOINTED BY THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE. 4 LONDON: Jitfculg for promoting Cbrkthw Jlnoblcbgc. Sold at the Depositories, 77, Great Oueen Street, Lincoln’s-Inn Fields ; 4, Royal Exchange ; 48, Piccadilly ; And by all Booksellers. 1877. CONTENTS, CHAPTER I. Introduction — Cyzicus — Lampsacus — Abydus — Assus — Palae-Scepsis — Troy — Dr. Schliemann — Ilium Novum— Alexandria—Troas—Pergamum or Pergamus—Aeolis. Page I CHAPTER II. Phocaea—Smyrna—Clazomense—Erythrae—Teos—Colophon— Ephesus — Mr. Wood — Miletus — Branchidse or Didyma Sacred Way—Mr. Newton—Thyateira—Magnesia ad Sipylum .—Philadelphia—Tralles — Sardes — Halicarnassus—Mauso¬ leum—Cnidus—Demeter—Lion-Tomb—Mr. Pullan—Physcus —Caunus—Stratonicea—Aphrodisias—Mylasa andLabranda. Page 34 CHAPTER III. Xanthus— Sir Charles Fellows—'Telmessus—Patara—Pinara— Myra—Tlos and Antiphellus—Attalia — Perge—Eurymedon •—Aspendus — Side — Termessus — Cremna — Sagalassus — Selge—Antioch of Pisidia—Tarsus — Coracesium — Laertes — Selinus —Anemurium — Celenderis—Seleuceia — Corycus —Soli—Adana — Mallus — Mopsuestia—Anazarbus—Issus. Page 86 CHAPTER IV. Xsaura—Iconium—Lystra—Derbe—Apamea Cibotus—Aezani—■ Synnada—Philomelium—Laodicea Combusta—Hierapolis— Laodicea ad Lycum—Colossae—Ancyra—Pessinus—Tavium —Nazianzus—Caesarea ad Argaeum—Tyana—Comana—Tra- pezus—Amastris—Sinope—Prusa ad Olympum — Nicaea— Nicomedia — Islands of Greece—Lesbos—Samos—Chios — Rhodus—Messrs. Biliotti and Saltzmann—Cyprus—Mr. Lang —General Palma di Cesnola...Page 124 CHAPTER V. St. Paul ...Page 172 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. -K> » — - CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. Cyzicus—Lampsacus— Abydus— Assus—Palse-Scepsis—Troy— Dr. Scliliemann—Ilium Novum—Alexandria—Troas—Per- gamum or Pergamus—Aeolis. Before we proceed to give a somewhat detailed account of the more important cities of Asia Minor, and of the islands adjacent to its west and southern shores, we may mention that Asia Minor, as it lies on the map, exhibits, in its contour, a remark¬ able resemblance to Spain. Extending between N. Lat. 36° and 42° and E. Long. 26° and 40°, it is about the same size as France, and somewhat less than Spain and Portugal taken together. Its in¬ terior consists of a central plateau, rarely lower than 3,000ft. above the sea, often much more; many portions of it, however, especially to the N. and E., affording excellent pasturage for sheep, and, there¬ fore, now, as for centuries, the natural home of the Turkoman shepherds. At the S.W. end of Asia Minor terminates, also, the great central mountain-range of Asia itself, which, B 2 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS running from the Brahmaputra westwards, connects the Himalayas and the Caucasus. Many of the streams flowing from these mountains are heavily charged with lime; hence the remarkable deposits of travertine, &c., to be seen at Hiera- polis and elsewhere; Indeed, to the geological features of the country we owe the fact that the military and commercial routes through Asia Minor have been always nearly the same, the earliest and the latest conquerors having followed the same roads. The present produce of Asia Minor is almost in¬ significant when considered with reference to its geo¬ graphical area, and to the great wealth extracted from it by the Romans (Cic. pro Leg. Manil. 2). But every land, alike, decays under the oppressive and unintel¬ ligent rule of the Osmanlis of Constantinople. The name, Asia Minor, we may add, is comparatively modern, and is not met with earlier than Orosius, in the fifth century A.D., while that of Anatolia (’A varoXi'i) is used first by Constantinus Porphyro- genitus, in the tenth century A.D. The chief provinces of Asia Minor (omitting the smaller subdivisions of Ionia, ^Eolis, and Troas, in¬ cluded, as these latter are usually, under Mysia and Lydia) are the following:—Mysia, Lydia, Caria, to the W., and fronting the AEgean Sea; Lycia, Pam- phylia, and Cilicia, opposite to Crete and Cyprus; Bithynia, Paphlagonia, and Pontus, on the Black Sea; and, in the centre, Pisidia and Lycaonia, Phry¬ gia, Galatia and Cappadocia. We propose to notice the more important towns, according to the order of the provinces just recited; OF ASIA MINOR. 3 and, following this order, we take first Mysia and its chief town, Cyzicus (the Esquize of mediaeval times), which was situated on the neck of a peninsula running out into the Sea of Marmora. Mr. Hamilton describes its position as “a sandy isthmus, having near its southern end many large blocks of stone, not, improbably, the remains of Strabo’s “ bridge.” Many ancient monuments may still be traced among its present cherry-orchards, attesting its original mag¬ nitude and magnificence, most of the relics now visible being Roman, and its destruction having, no doubt, been mainly due to the great earthquakes in the reign of Tiberius and Aurelius, which ruined and depopulated so many other of the fairest towns of Asia Minor. 1 Mr. Hamilton, indeed, noting the loose and rubbly character of its buildings, doubts the architectural fame of the city; but it is probable that what we now see was once cased with marble, as much fine marble is found in the adjacent hills. Some, too, of its buildings are of a granite easily disintegrable. Any how, it would seem to be a place where well- conducted excavations might bring to light many curious relics of the past. Cyzicus was classed by Anaximenes of Lampsacus among the colonies of Miletus, but was not of importance till the close 1 Tacitus, speaking of A.D. 17, the 4th of Tiberius, says :— “ Eodem anno duodecim celebres Asias urbes collapsse nocturno motu terrae” (Annal. ii. c. 47) : and Cicero speaks of Cyzicus as “urbem Asiae celeberrimam nobisque amicissimam.” Compare also Apoll. Rhod. i. 936-941, 983-987 ; Valer. Max. ii. 630; Ovid. Trist. i. 9. E 2 4 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS of the Peloponnesian war, when, by the discredit¬ able peace of Antalcidas, it was surrendered to the Persians, its ultimate prosperity being in great measure due to its position, as a natural entrepot, between the Black Sea and the JEgean. In Roman times it was, according to Strabo, a “ Libera civitas,” and, with the exception of Nicomedia and Nicaea, the most im¬ portant city in that part of Asia Minor. In the days of Caracalla it had become a “ Metropolis,” and, still later, was an Episcopal see. Of the great wealth and, we may perhaps add, of the popularity of its citizens in the fifth and fourth century B.C., the gold coins, called Cyzicene staters , are ample evidence; though it may be doubted whether, as was once thought, the zecchino (or sequin), means Cyzicejie. In an able paper by Dr. (now Sir Patrick) Colquhoun (Trans. Roy. Liter, vol. iv. p. 35), it is clearly shown that the “ Squise” of Ville-Hardouin is the ancient Cyzicus, “the oldest commercial place in the world,” as that writer, with some exaggeration, asserts. The form “ Esquisse ” is probably, as Dr. Colquhoun suggests, a corruption of dg K v^ikov (“ to Cyzicus "J. 1 Dr. Colquhoun’s paper is full of curious information on the early mediaeval state of this part of Asia Minor. Its decline was mainly due to the invasion of the Goths in A.D. 262, but it long remained the metropolis of the Hellespontine province 1 Similar modem modifications may be noticed in other sites of the Levant. Thus, Stanchio (Kos) comes from tig rrjv Kwv; Stamboul is not, necessarily, a corruption of Constantinopolis, but, more probably, of tig tt/v ttoXiv (to “ the city”); so Stali- mene (Lesbos) comes from tig t'ov Xi/xtva (“to the port ”). OF ASIA MINOR. 5 (Hierocl. Synecd. p. 661. Malala, Chron. i. p. 364). It was finally destroyed by an earthquake in A.D. 943. Another Mysian town of note was Lampsacus, also a colony of Miletus and Phocaea, attested as this is by its gold and silver coins, and by a statue of a prostrate lion, said to have been the work of Lysippus, and sub¬ sequently, placed by Agrippa in the Campus Martius at Rome. The town was famous for its wine, and was, for this reason, granted to Themistocles, who is said to have learnt here, or at Magnesia, Persian in a year ; the district around having been granted to him by his old enemy the King of Persia. Like most of the towns of western Asia Minor, it often changed hands during the rival contests of its more powerful neigh¬ bours ; but, having, with a wise forethought, voted a crown of gold to the Romans, it was accepted by them as an ally, 1 and, hence, was, in the time of Strabo, a town of some magnitude. A small village, called Lampsaki, most likely marks on our modern maps the site of the old town. A little to the south of Lampsacus was Abydus, at the narrowest part of the Hellespont, and oppo¬ site the town of Sestus. 2 It was a little above Abydus that Xerxes constructed his famous bridge, 1 Liv. xliii. 6. Most likely, its brave resistance to Antiochus had favourably inclined the Romans to it (Liv. xxxiii. 38 ; xxxv. 42. Polyb. xxi. 10). 2 The average breadth of the Hellespont was about three miles—rather narrow for Homer’s nXarvg, “the broad.” He, probably, however, looked on it rather as a mighty river; to which, indeed, his epithets of ayappoog and airtipwv (“strong- flowing,” and “boundle^”) well enough apply. Herodotus calls it SoXepug and aXfivpdg iroTa/jLog, “a treacherous and unsavoury river” (vii. 35). 6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS B.C. 480 ; but, except for the gallant resistance it made to Philip, son of Demetrius, king of Macedon, Abydus has no place in history. In legendary lore, however, it was the scene of the famous swim¬ ming of Leander to visit his lady-love, the Priestess of the Temple at Sestus, on the opposite or European shore, a natatory feat, however, far surpassed in recent days. Lord Byron’s lines on the subject are well known:— He could, perhaps, have pass’d the Hellespont, As once (a feat on which ourselves we prided) Leander, Mr. Ekenhead, and I did. Don Juan, Cant. ii. 105. Leander’s labour, however, was greater than that of the poet or his companion, in that he swam against the stream to reach Sestus, the current being often so powerful that a well-manned boat cannot be pulled straight across it. A little further down the coast, and facing nearly due south, is Assus, a site which has been visited by many travellers, as Walpole, Choiseul-Gouffier, Raoul-Rochette, Fellows, and Pullan. The most an¬ cient monuments of Greek art in the Louvre at Paris were removed thence. The position of the chief build¬ ings is very grand; indeed, in Strabo’s time, Assus was considered as a fortress almost inaccessible. 1 Its 1 The character of the position of Assus led to a joke of the musician Stratonicus, who applied to it a line of Homer (II. vii. 144), playing on the meaning of the word ^ Agoov, viz. ”Xaaov i' 0 ’, or parchment, appears to have been brought into use by Crates of Mallos when Ptolemy cut off the supply of the byblus or the papyrus reed. OF ASIA MINOR. 33 \ their advent to Asia Minor four generations earlier than the Ionian migration, and this movement has been supposed to have been contemporary with the return of the Heracleidae, and may, not improbably, have been, in some degree, caused by it. In com¬ mon with the other Greek colonies, the ^Eolians became subject to Croesus, and, on the success of Cyrus, were annexed to the Persian empire; hence, in the Graeco-Persian war, they contributed sixty ships to the armament of Xerxes. The principal towns of JEolis were Myrina, Cyme, Neontichos, and Methymna. They are not, however, of sufficient importance to detain us here. Pass we, therefore, to Ionia. D 34 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS CHAPTER II. Phocsea—Smyrna—Clazomense—Erythrse—Teos Colophon Ephesus—Mr. Wood—Miletus—Branchidse or Didyma— Sacred Way—Mr. Newton—Thyateira—Magnesia ad Sipylum —Philadelphia—Tralles— Sardes—Halicarnassus — Mauso- _leum — Cnidus — Demeter — Lion-Tomb — Mr. Pullan Physcus — Caunus—Stratonicea—Aphrodisias—Mylasa and Labranda. Phoc/ea— the most northern of the Ionian cities — founded by emigrants from Phocis, under two Athe¬ nian chiefs, soon, from the excellence of its harbour, secured a prominent place among the early maritime states of the world, and was the first to establish colonies on the Adriatic, the coasts of Etruria, Gaul, and Spain. It is reported that Arganthonius, then king of Tartessus (probably Tarshish), did all he could to persuade these enterprising strangers to stay in his land ; and that, failing this, he gave them large sums of money to build (or rebuild) the walls of their native town. Phocaea is often mentioned sub¬ sequently, though it does not appear to have per¬ formed any very memorable actions. It may be tiaced by its coins, and by the annalists and ecclesiastical writers to the latest period of the Byzantine empire. Indeed, so late as A.D. 1421, the Genoese built a new town near its ancient site, which still retains the name of Palaio-Phoggia. A little further to the S. we come to Smyrna, one of the most celebrated cities of Asia Minor, though OF ASIA MINOR. 35 it was comparatively late in attaining this eminence. It was situated on a bay of unrivalled beauty and commercial excellence; and, almost alone of the great cities or ports of Western Asia has preserved its eminence to the present day, being now, as it has long been, the chief emporium of the Levant trade. In remote times, Smyrna successfully resisted the attacks of Gyges, king of Lydia, and was, in conse¬ quence, taken and destroyed by his successor, Alyattes. It is said, that, after this blow, it was nearly deserted for 400 years, but was, at length, rebuilt by Antigonus and Lysimachus, though not exactly on the same site. With this rebuilding its great prosperity commenced. Nor were the claims to distinction advanced by itself inferior to its real greatness. Inscriptions abound (some of the best, indeed, among the marbles at Oxford), where, as on its coins, it calls itself UPflTH ACIAC, the “ first city of Asia” 3 and so, indeed, it long continued, though at times suffer¬ ing severely from civil wars and earthquakes, and most of all from the merciless treatment of Timur. Smyrna claimed, especially, to be the birthplace of Homer, and dedicated a temple to him. A cave was also shown there, in which the poet was said to have composed his verses (Pausan. Ach. 5). Smyrna is not, how¬ ever, mentioned by Homer. In the reign of Tibe¬ rius, Smyrna contended with ten other cities for the honour (?) of erecting a temple to that worthless ruler, and won the prize; and here, not many years later, the Christian Church flourished under Poly¬ carp, its first bishop, who is believed to have suffered martyrdom in its stadium about A.D. 166. d 2 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS 3 6 Next to Smyrna we may take Clazomen^e, a town whose date is probably not earlier than the Ionic migra¬ tion. It was famous as the birth-place of Anaxagoras, the philosopher, whose disciple Archelaus taught Socrates and Euripides ; and, also, as one of the states which joined with the Phocseans in founding the naval colony of Naucratis in Egypt (Herod, ii. 17 8 )* It retained its name and existence till late m the Byzantine period (Plin. v. 31; Ptol.; Hierocl. Synecd.), but, towards the middle of the eleventh century, was finally destroyed by the Turks. Erythr^e, celebrated as the home of one if not of two Sibyls—and a town whose life is traceable by coins and inscriptions to a late period of the Roman empire, and, from the acts of Councils and other ecclesiastical documents, was manifestly for some time an episcopal see. Its land produced good wine [being called in a distich preserved by Athenaeus Quint. Curt., vii. 5). E 5 ° GRE-EK CITIES AND ISLANDS period of art. Mr. Newton says, it is evident that no one of them occupied, when he discovered, them, exactly its original position, and that they must, at some time or other, have been thrown down and par¬ tially removed—an opinion confirmed by a somewhat later discovery of about eighty feet of the original paving of the “Sacred Way,” together with some bases, not improbably those on which these statues had been originally placed. The “ Sacred Way ” can still be traced for about 580 yards. In a wall extending along it are, here and there, masses of polygonal masonry, with individual stones of immense size, the remains, probably, of an original Hellenic wall. At a short distance from the last of the seated statues, Mr. Newton met with two remarkable monuments — a colossal lion and a female sphinx — both, unfortunately, much injured. The sphinx was completely buried under the earth, and had nothing in its form to recommend it, but the lion had, on its side, a very ancient inscrip¬ tion, which the barbarous Greeks of the neighbourhood had done all they could to obliterate. The important question is, to what period are these works to be assigned? Now, of direct evidence we have none; for, though history speaks of the two temples at this spot, we have no record of the statues themselves; the probability being that they were damaged nearly as much as at present before Herodotus visited the spot, and, probably, by the Persians. Yet, in spite of the silence of history, we have some indirect evi¬ dence from the monuments themselves; enough, at least, to determine their age within tolerably accurate OF ASIA MINOR. 5 1 limits. In the first place, we have the character of their art, which is, unquestionably, very archaic; se¬ condly, on three of' the chairs are inscriptions in the oldest Greek character j on the most important one written boustvophcdon it. 6 . backwards and forwards, as an ox ploughs); thirdly, a long inscription on the recumbent lion, and another, quite as old, on a detached block, the base, possibly, of a statue now lost. In order that the nature of the characters used may be comprehended, we annex a woodcut of the INSCRIPTION OF CHARES. legend on one of the chairs of the seated figures, the translation of which is, “ I am Chares, son of Clesis, ruler of Teichaoessa, a [dedicatory] monument of [to] Apollo.” 1 On the block found near the chair, This inscription was probably attached to a portrait statue. Teichioessa, or Teichiousa, we know from Thucydides (viii. 26, 28), was a strong place near Miletus. Atheneeus (viii. 351) spells it Teichius. Mr. Newton suggests that Chares was probably one of the petty rulers on the western coast of Asia Minor in the sixth and fifth centuries B.C., of whom Herodotus notices more than one. A bon-mot of Stratonicus the musician is recorded by Athenseus : “As Teichioessa was inhabited by a mixed population, he observed that most of the tombs were those of foreigners, on which he said to his lad, ‘ Let us be off, since strangers seem to die here, but not one of the E 2 5 2 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS CHAIR FROM BRANCHID/E. OF ASIA MINOR. 53 the inscription states that “ the sons of Anaximander have [dedicated a statue?] of Andromachus,” and that “Terpsicles made it”: while that, on the side of the lion,—the most curious of them all,—declares that “the sons of Python, Archelaos, Thales, Pa- sikles, Hegesander, and Lysias, have dedicated the offerings, as a tenth, to Apollo.” Some years since, a still more perfect seated figure was in existence, on the chair of which was an inscription copied by Sir W. Gell and Mr. Cockerell, and published by Boeckh and Rose. 1 We cannot discuss here the character of the in¬ scriptions quoted above, but all palaeographers ad¬ mit that the writing belongs to the earliest Greek period, not improbably anterior to the year B.C. 520. It may be still earlier, as, on the lion inscription, we find the name of Hegesander and another name, which, though the first letter has met with an injury, we agree with Mr. Newton in thinking, must be read natives’” (viii. p. 351). Teichoessa was also famous for the excellence of its mullets (Ital. triglia ), .... xa/xiSi'i Ct rpiyXyv kadi’ kvi ipa(papy \r)vtc toij Tpiorriov ’ AttoAAojvoc, Ilerod. i. I 44 > or ’Ayojv Awpioc, Arist. ap. Schol. Theocr. Idyll, xvii. 69). The officer in charge of these games was called daiuovpy'og (Leake, p. 227). 2 The Cnidians wished to cut through the narrow neck of land between their two harbours; but the Delphic oracle replied that, had Jupiter intended Cape Krio should have been an island, lie would have made it so :— r AtvQ k tOrjKt vricrov ti k’ iftouAero. —Ilerod. i. 174 * 3 Cnidus paid dear for this desertion by loss of all her ships (Thucyd. viii. 35, 42). 4 Hamilton (ii. 42) shows that more than one of Julius Cmsar’s personal friends were connected with Cnidus. 5 See papers by W. W. Lloyd in “ Museum of Classical An¬ tiquities,” vol. i. 1851. 72 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS other statues of Leto, of Apollo, and of Artemis shooting arrows at Tityus. The most famous art-possession of Cnidus was the naked statue by Praxiteles so well known as the Cnidian Venus, 1 of which abundant notices are extant, especially in Lucian. It stood in a chamber with two doors, so that it could be seen all round, and many people visited Cnidus solely for this purpose. So proud were the Cnidians of this statue that, when Nicomedes offered to pay the whole public debt of Cnidus in return for the statue, they preferred keeping their statue and their debts. This statue, justly considered the fittest representation of the “ Regina Cnidi Paphique,” continued long uninjured, and is mentioned by Philostratus in his life of Apol¬ lonius of Tyana; but, in the reign of Theodosius, having been removed to Constantinople, it was totally destroyed by fire in the palace of Lausus, about A.D. 475. There were also preserved at Cnidus two statues by Bryaxis and Scopas, two of the sculptors of the Mausoleum. Cnidus was also famous for her pottery, well known in ancient times by the name of “ Kepafua K 1 Praxiteles made two statues of Venus, one naked, the other veiled. The Coans chose the latter, the Cnidians the former. 2 The territory round Cnidus was rich in wine, corn, oil, and various vegetables, noticed by Athenceus (i. p. 33, ii. p. 66), and by Pliny (xiii. 35, xix. 32, &c.). Pliny adds (xvi. 64) that Cnidian reeds made excellent pens; hence the fitness of Catullus’s lines— “ Quaeque Ancona Cnidumque arundinosam Colis” (Carm. xxx. vi. 11). The historian Ctesias, Eudoxus, a disciple of Plato, and Aga- tharcides, were natives of Cnidus. From Hierocles, the Notitim and the Acts of Councils, it would seem to have existed as late as the seventh and eighth centuries. OF ASIA MINOR. 73 The report of the Dilettanti Society, to which we have alluded, and those of Captain Beaufort and others, having excited much interest in England, it was thought advisable that careful excavations should be made at a spot where there was so much promise of successful results; hence Mr. Newton, at the close of his work at Halicarnassus, resolved to do for Cnidus what he had done for the other Carian city. Mr. Newton commenced his operations by examin¬ ing a platform supported by polygonal masonry, and jutting out like a pier from the side of the mountain, soon discerning that he was on the site of the temenos of Demeter, as a niche in the face of the rock above still retained a portion of a dedicatory inscription to that goddess. Shortly afterwards he found a small stele , and, near it, the statue noticed by the Dilettanti mis¬ sion, the head, hands, and feet of which were wanting. Enough, however, remained to show that it had once been a work “ of fine style and execution.” Inscriptions soon after turned up on the same spot: one of them recording the dedication of an edifice (oh;oe) and of a statue (dyaXpct) to Demeter and Persephone, and, what was of far higher interest, the head of the seated figure just noticed, exhibiting a countenance of ex¬ quisite beauty, with a most tender and refined expres¬ sion. This head has recently been specially studied by Professor Brunn, and his paper on it (translated by Mr. Murray, of the British Museum) published in vol. xi. pt. i of the Trans, of the Royal Society of Literature. In this paper Professor Brunn traces, with a masterly hand, the intercrossing ideas suggested by the mixed character of Demeter as a wife, a mother, 74 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS and a widow. “The character,” says he, “of mother pervades the whole mythology of Demeter: the mother who, without a husband, lived only for her child; who had to lose her child, and to be filled with anxiety for her ■ to have her anxiety lessened, but never silenced or removed, by occasional visits fiom her daughter. . . . . . The eye is sunk in the socket, as if physically weary; but anxiety of mind fights against the weariness, and will not yet surrender to it. The look is not sunk, but is directed upwards, only a little less sharply.”.“Can it be,” adds the Professor, “ only the result of chance that Christian DEMETER FROM CNIDUS. artists have also represented the Madonna wearing the veil?.In the centre of the Christian religion, also, is the figure of a mother who lives only for her Child and in her Child, who, in the same way, OF ASIA MINOR. 75 grieves for the loss of her Son, and finds blessedness in the spiritual contemplation of Him. Suppose a Christian artist were to give his Madonna the head of our Demeter, he would certainly not be censured for it.” About the same time Mr. Newton met with two other statues, each of considerable interest: the one representing a female figure with a modius on her head, partially covered by the peplos, and in her right hand a pomegranate ; the other, a female statue nearly six feet high, with its body draped to the feet. Its general character is that of an elderly woman wasted with sorrow, with little of that matronly comeliness which, in ancient art, generally characterizes Demeter. From the Homeric hymn to Demeter we learn that the goddess, while wandering in search of her daughter Persephone, was wont to assume the garb of an old woman, and thus traversed the earth for days without tasting food. She is likened, also, to an aged nurse or housekeeper in a regal house, a description well agreeing with this statue. This type of the sorrowing Demeter has not, we believe, been previously recog¬ nized in any extant monument of ancient art. A passage,however, in Clemens Alexandrinus (Cohort, ad Gentes, i. 30, ed. Potter) suggests that she was some¬ times represented in sculpture under this aspect. Near the first statue of Demeter, the sitting figure, were several thin nearly decayed sheets of lead, which, on being unrolled, proved to have been in¬ scribed with curses and imprecations in the names of Demeter, Persephone, and other of the infernal gods. Such inscriptions have been occasionally met with before, and are known by the name of Dirtz. 76 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS On pursuing his researches in this temenos , Mr. New¬ ton came upon the entrance to a large chamber, full of miscellaneous antiquities, including many bases of former statues, some with remains of stelae, others with hollowed spaces for the feet of statues. Most of them bore dedications to Demeter in the Doric dialect; and, with them, were many other objects connected with her worship, as three boar pigs, a calathus, and many votive female breasts in marble. The date of these objects is probably, as Mr. Newton suggests, about B.C. 370—320. Below these, again, were layers of lamps, amfthoriskoi , vessels in Samian ware, hair-pins of bone, bodkins, and glass bottles, all probably Roman. It is likely that this chamber was formerly a treasury connected with one of the temples; and, that it has never been disturbed since it became a ruin is certain from the fact that the edges of the fractured stones are still clean and sharp. It is curious that, besides the marble pigs, the bones of many young pigs were also found, manifest remains of sacrifices to Demeter. The clearing out of the Theatres did little to re¬ ward Mr. Newton’s labours; indeed, it soon became but too clear that all, or nearly all, the finer works had long since been removed, probably, like the Venus, to Constantinople. Hence, shortly afterwards, he gave his chief attention to a thorough examination of the Necropolis, the vast extent of which naturally inspired hopes of important discoveries. This necro¬ polis, the general character of which is very well shown in one of the plates in the “ Ionian Antiquities,” must in former days have been one of the most striking features of the town. One of the structures still re- OF ASIA MINOR. 77 maining in situ was, Mr. Newton observes, not unlike in form to an early Christian church, with a chamber, vestibule, and apse or alcove at the south end. On each side were smaller apses, and, in front of each of them, a marble sarcophagus. The sarcophagi gene¬ rally exhibit good Roman work of the time of Domitian, but have suffered much by the fall of the roof; they must once have been magnificent specimens of the decorative style of their day, though they exhibit the decay of good taste in the lavish prodigality of orna¬ ment with which they have been covered. In the earth around were abundant fragments of Greek in¬ scriptions, nearly all of them decrees of the Senate and people of Cnidus. One of the tombs Mr. Newton considered to have been that of a certain Lykaethus, as an inscription records decrees in his favour, by show of hands (yitporovia), at the festival of the greater Dionysia, together with the erection of a statue to him at the public expense. There is no satis¬ factory proof as to when this Lykasthus lived; but his tomb would seem to date from the early Seleucidan period, when Cnidus was a free city. Having completed the survey of Cnidus itself, Mr. Newton proceeded next to examine the villages in the neighbourhood, the result being the discovery of a colossal lion. Reports of its existence had reached him before, but it was left to Mr. Pullan, the archi¬ tect of the expedition, to make its actual discovery, at a distance of between three and four miles to the E. of Cnidus, in a position wherein, except by accident, it might have remained unnoticed for an¬ other twenty-one centuries. The exact spot where the lion was found may be seen in the Admiralty chart, GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS 73 which shows, on the summit of a cliff, opposite Cape Crio, the mins of an ancient tomb, which are strewn all around. Below this, some 60 feet, the lion was reposing on a ledge of rock, beneath which, again, is a sheer precipice of 300 feet into the sea. The lion was lying on its right side, and its upper portion had suffered much from exposure to the weather. It had been carved, as well as the base on which it re¬ poses, of one piece of Parian marble, and measures nearly 10 ft. in length, by 6 ft. in height. This noble lion is probably earlier than the Mausoleum, and ex¬ hibits a more severe and majestic style than those of the Mausoleum. 1 2 The removal of the lion was a labour of much toil and difficulty; indeed, could hardly have been accomplished had Mr. Newton not had the aid of some sailors from an English ship of war. The tomb itself was a nearly equal square of 39 ft. 2f inches, with the remains of a pyramid like that of the Mausoleum. 3 Its present height is about 17 ft.; the four lower feet being composed of immense blocks of marble, supporting eleven courses of travertine. On the west, and most perfect side, a portion of the lower step of the stylobate still remains. No data have been obtained of the exact height of the columns once round the monument; but, as, in an angle step, one tread was 13J inches, and the other only 10^, it is clear that this struc¬ ture, like the Mausoleum, was oblong. Although 1 See Frontispiece. 2 Mr. Falkener found at Ouran, in Phrygia, a monument he has restored as similar to this Lion-tomb. We wish he had also given a sketch of the rain as he found it. (Museum Class. Antiq. i. p. 174.) OF ASIA MINOR. 79 the action of an earthquake was probably the primary cause of the ruin of this monumental tomb, there can be no doubt, also, that it has suffered much from plunderers, who, in search for treasure, have torn up as much of the inner pavement as they could move. The jambs of the doorway still exist, and the interior was shaped like a beehive. The top has been closed in by one immense block, and, as its upper side was * somewhat broader than the lower, this block must have been dropped into its position, like the bung of a gigantic cask, after the rest of the building was finished. The chamber, itself, exhibits in its sides a series of openings expanding outwards like embra¬ sures—no doubt, OijKai, or resting-places for bodies: indeed, on clearing the rubbish away, a number of human bones were met with. Mr. Newton considers this monument can hardly be later than 350 B.C., and that it was built as a monument to many citizens who had fallen in battle. To what period, then, can it be assigned? Probably to either the repulse of the Athenians by the Cnidians in B.C. 412; or to the defeat of the Lacedaemonians by Conon in B.C. 394; and, of the two, it is more likely it was erected in commemoration of the former event, which was one of much glory to the town. To the north and further inland, are two other tombs of precisely similar construction, but inferior in size. Having now devoted a considerable space to Hali¬ carnassus and Cnidus, owing to their being, from recent researches, of such high importance, we must notice very briefly the other towns of Caria. The small town of Physcus is chiefly of interest for its mag- So GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS nificent bay and harbour, so well known to modern navigators (under the name of Marmorice), as one of the finest in the world for vessels of the largest size. Possibly it was this very character that led to its being so little noticed in antiquity, as ancient galleys did not value depth of water. The capacity of the bay of Marmorice will be best comprehended, when we remind our readers that Nelson anchored his whole fleet within it, just before the battle of the Nile. Not far from this was Caunus, the ancient capital of a population whom Herodotus held were not Carians; indeed, their coins and architecture seem to prove them Lycians. The site of Caunus has been identified, there being still considerable monumental remains and walls of so-called Cyclopean masonry. The Caunians were an active and high- spirited race, and made a gallant resistance to the Persians, a few years later joining with equal enthu¬ siasm in the great Ionian revolt (Herod, v. 103). Towards the close of the Peloponnesian war we find Caunus constantly mentioned. Having been rejected by the Romans in a petition against Rhodes, they conceived against them the bitterest hatred, and hence carried out with great atrocity the massacre of the Romans planned by Mithradates (Appian, Mithr. c. 23). Caunus was so unhealthy in the summer that “ pale-faced Caunians” became a proverb. Stratonicea (now Eski-hissar), one of the chief inland towns of Caria and mainly built by Antiochus Soter, derived its name from his wife Stratonice. The great Mithradates married thence his wife Monima. Not far from the town was the famous OF ASIA MINOR. 8l temple of Jupiter Chrysaorius, the centre of the political union of the Carian states. Stratonicea has been much explored by travellers; and, so early as 1709, Mr. Consul Sherard presented to the Earl of Oxford a book of Greek inscriptions copied by him at various places in Asia Minor. This volume is now in the Harleian collection. The most important monument of the town is the celebrated edict of Diocletian-—in Greek and Latin—the first copy of which, by Sherard, is in the volume just mentioned. The late Colonel Leake 1 has shown that its date is about A.D. 303, and its object to direct those en¬ gaged in the traffic of provisions not to exceed certain fixed prices in times of scarcity. Fellows states that the names of many of the articles of food enumerated therein are still used by the peasantry of Asia Minor. Inter alia , we learn that silken garments were in common use, as Ammianus 2 pointed out, seventy years later; as also the rough coat or birrhus , the caracalhs, or hooded cloak (afterwards adopted by the monks), the Gallic breeches and socks. The late date of the inscription is shown by its barbarous Latinity, above all, by the reduced value of the drachma or denarius. Thus a denarius appears as the equivalent of a single oyster, or of the hundredth part of a lean goose ! The names of the provisions recorded not only indicate the ordinary food of the 1 See Trans. Roy. Soc. of Literature, 1st series, 4to. vol. i. p. 181. 1826. J Ammianus was not acquainted with the true origin of silk. He still describes it, as did Virgil and Pliny, as a sort of woolly substance ( lanugo ) combed from a tree in China. G 82 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS people, but also the costly dainties of the epicure. Thus several kinds of honey, of hams, of sausages, 1 of salt and fresh-water fish, of asparagus and of beans, are noted. Gibbon has not failed to notice this inscription, though, in his day, it had been very im¬ perfectly copied. Aphrodisias was a considerable place, and, at a very late period, as appears from Hierocles, the capital of Caria. It is but little mentioned in ancient history, but Tacitus records that, setting forth decrees , of Caesar and Augustus in its favour, 2 it pleaded be¬ fore the Senate for the right of sanctuary attached to its temples, when Tiberius was wisely attempting to abridge these injurious immunities. Aphrodisias was chiefly famous for its magnificent Ionic temple of Venus, many columns of which are still standing. They may be seen in the third volume of the “ Ionian Antiquities,” 1840, 3 and in Mr. Pullan’s work. 1 The derivation of the word “sausage” may not be generally known. “Icicium” means “minced meat “salsumicicium,” the same salted. From the latter comes the Italian salsiccio, the French saucisse , and the English sausage. So jecurficatum (Greek, avKujrov), hog’s liver, derived from the fattening of geese with figs (“pinguibus et ficis pastum jecur anseris albi,” Horat. Satir. ii. 8, 88) is preserved in the Italian fegato and the modern Greek avicoTi, used for liver in general. It is curious to meet on a decree on the walls of a temple in Caria with pernce Menapica, Westphalian hams. 2 “Dictators Csesaris ob vetusta in partes merif.a et recens Divi Augusti decretum” (Tacit. Ann. iii. 62). An inscription published by Chishull in his Antiq. Asiat. (p. 152), but, we believe, first copied by Sherard, confirms the statement of Tacitus. 3 The name of Aphrodisias was more than once changed. Thus when Christianity began to prevail, the first change was to OF ASIA MINOR. S3 Sir Charles Fellows has given an excellent descrip¬ tion (Lycia, p. 32) of the state in which he found the ruins, with a beautiful drawing of the Ionic temple. il I never,” says he, “ saw in one place so many perfect remains, although by no means of a good age of the arts ” : he thinks, too, that the early city must have been in great measure destroyed. “ These (the later) walls are,” he adds, “ composed of the remains of temples, tombs, and theatres removed, although un¬ injured. The reversed inscriptions, and inverted bas- reliefs bear testimony to this change.” Sir Charles Fellows quotes one inscription as showing how care¬ fully the owners of these tombs endeavoured to secure their preservation and sole occupancy. “But if,” says the legend, “ contrary to these directions, anybody shall bury another (in this monument), let him be accursed, and besides pay into the most holy treasury 5,000 denarii, of which one-third is to be his who institutes the proceedings.” Inscriptions with similar curses are, indeed, common enough. Mylasa and Labranda may be taken together, as from the former a Sacred Way led to Labranda. The former was, no doubt, in early times one of the chief places in Caria, before Halicarnassus was adopted as the royal residence; indeed, we find a proof of this in the fact that it had a temple to which Lydians and Mysians were alike admitted (Herod, i. 171). Physcus, Tauiopolis (as is shown on an inscription copied by Fellows), and, again, to Stauropolis (or the city of the Cross). When, however, towards the end of the fifth century, the festivals of Venus were revived by Asclepiodotus of Alexandria, the ancient name was revived also. G 2 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS to which we have already referred was considered as its port. Mylasa, in ancient times, as Strabo avers, a city of great beauty, owed much to its having been built close to a mountain of the finest white marble. It was, indeed, so close, that one of the provincial governors observed that the founder of the town ought to have been ashamed of his blunder, if not frightened. 1 It was, also, so full of sacred buildings, that when Stratonicus came there, thinking there were more temples than people, he exclaimed, in the middle of the forum, “ Hear, oh ye temples ”! (Athen. viii. p. 348). The people of Mylasa having made a successful resistance to the attacks of Philip, the son of De¬ metrius, were rewarded by being made “ free ” by the Romans. Modern travellers, from Pococke to Chandler, fully confirm the statements of the ancients as to the abundance of marble monuments; and Colonel Leake adds that, since they were there, the Turks have pulled down the best ruin, that of the Temple of Romulus and Augustus. Sir Charles Fellows, on his second journey, observed on the key¬ stone of a gateway the double-headed axe (bipennis), indicating that the building to which it belonged had once been consecrated to the Jupiter of Labranda, a name said to have been derived from Xafipvg, the Carian word for an axe; 2 and succeeded, also, 1 Strabo’s words are : Tavrrjv yap, ti)v ttoXiv o Kricrag *t prj tcpofielTO, ap' ovd’ yaxavtro ; (xiv. 659). 2 Strabo calls the temple vtujg apxalog, and Herodotus adds that there was a holy grove of plane-trees near it, ilyiop aXvog ■nXaTaviGTuv (v. 119). Plutarch (ii. p. 302 A) states that oi f a:;ja minor. 85 in identifying it (pp. 66 6y). He says of it, The only conspicuous building of the place is a beautiful temple of the Corinthian order, but I think not ol the finest age.It stands in a recess in the hills, and is consequently not seen without approaching close to it." 1 wan the I.ydian and Carian word for axe (which we find 1 f• |* 1 ci.iMited uhiO on the coins ol Mauxolus and I'ixodarus). On on<• ol I hr Oxford marbles (ii. 12), [irobahly an altar, occur the word 4 A toe Saflyttliviov. 1 Since Sir < hurle*'# visit, thin spot has been carefully ex- amined |>y Mi. I'uJIan, who stairs that the building (of which th< (iflrrii columns still stand) is i (tally of Roman limes and woif, though engraved (nndei the auspices of Or. Chandler) as a On ). 86 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS CHAPTER III. Xanthus—Sir Charles Fellows—Telmessus—Patara—Pinara— Myra—Tlos and Antiphellus—Attalia—Perge—Eurymedon— Aspendus — Side—Termessus—Cremna—Sagalassus—Selge —Antioch of Pisidia—Tarsus—Coracesium—Laertes—Selinus — Anemurium — Celenderis — Seleuceia — Corycus—Soli— Adana—Mallus—Mopsuestia—Anazarbus—Issus. We come now to Lycia , of which many of the most important monuments are now in the Lycian room at the British Museum—for the most part the records of its chief town, Xanthus —and all pro¬ cured by Sir Charles Fellows. A few less valuable remains, were, at the same time, obtained from other Lycian towns. The chief value of the monuments from Lycia lies in this, that, while they exhibit many well-executed pieces of sculpture, interesting as a local or provincial rendering of Greek work of the middle of the fourth century B.C., they comprise, also, a few slabs, as, for instance, those from the Harpy tomb, of a genuine Archaic type. Xanthus, the town from which the greater part of the monuments about to be described have been secured, underwent remarkable vicissitudes of fortune, some of which, it has been thought, are indicated on its scupltures. Originally, it was a Cretan colony settled at or near Xanthus; hence we read, in the Iliad, of Sarpedon and Glaucus, as the leaders of the Lycians in the Trojan army, and of the body of the OF ASIA MINOR. 37 former being carried back by Sleep and Death to Lycia to be honoured with a stele and tomb. Pan- darus, too, the celebrated archer, is also a Lycian. On the overthrow of Croesus, Harpagus, Cyrus’s general, was sent to reduce Lycia with a mixed force of Per¬ sians, Dorians, and Ionians; the Glaucidae, or royal family of Lycia, having vigorously supported the Ionians in their resistance to Cyrus. On this occasion Xanthus made a memorable defence. It is said that, when driven from the plain by the united forces of the Persian and confederate army, its people took refuge in their citadel, and, collecting therein their wives, children, and treasures, burnt them, at the same time falling to a man in a furious sally upon their enemies (Herod, i. 176). That the Persian success was complete, we know from the fact, that, sixty years later, the then Xan- thians sent fifty ships to the aid of Xerxes, and con¬ tinued, subsequently, to pay an annual tax to the Persian monarchs. 1 Yet their courage was not subdued; for when Alexander, after his victory over the Persians at the Graneicus, descended into Lycia, at Xanthus, and there alone, he met with an obstinate resistance. In the subsequent war, the Xanthians supported 1 It has been suggested (see Rawlinson’s Herodotus, i. p. 312) that the family of Harpagus continued to govern Lycia, and that the Xantliian obelisk (to which we shall presently refer) was erected soon after the battle of Eurymedon, B.C. 466. But “son of Harpagus,” on that monument, may easily mean no more than his descendant, just as Jehu was called “the son of Omri.” 38 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS Antigonus; hence the assault and capture of the town by Ptolemy ; and, during the war between Brutus and the Triumvirs, the former entered Lycia, and a bloody attack on, and siege of, Xanthus were the natural results. We are told, that on this occasion, the people of the town did as they had done before when assaulted by Harpagus, destroying themselves, their wives, and their children, in a similar holocaust Subsequently, we hear little of Xanthus, except that it suffered severely from the two great earth¬ quakes in the days of Tiberius and Antoninus Pius. The town of Xanthus was situated on the left bank of the Sirbes 1 or Sirbus, called Xanthus or the Yellow by the Greeks ; at a distance of between 6 and 7 miles from the sea. On the highest point was the Acropolis, a Roman work, built chiefly out of the ruins of the older town. On the brow of the hill stood what has been called the Harpy tomb. The monuments found at Xanthus may be arranged under the head of (1) the so-called Ionic trophy monument, 2 (2) Miscellaneous reliefs, (3) Tombs. 1 Dionysius Teriegetes testifies to both names : and £ 7 r’ apyvpetp 7 rorafxtp . . . EdvOov i TTi 7rpoxo7jcnv . . . k. t. A. (v. 847.) On the whole, it seems most likely that this monument was the sanctuary of some local hero, possibly of the original founder or leader {diKurrijc or apxnysrrjc), like the Theseum at Athens. It might, therefore, have been the Harpageum, or memorial of Harpagus, or of the Harpagi. Mr. Benjamin Gibson has sup¬ posed that the “Trophy monument” was intended to com¬ memorate ‘ ‘ the conquest of Lycia by the united forces of the OF ASIA MINOR. 89 The first stands on the east side of the city, and was constructed of white marble on a basement of grey Lycian stone. Two or more friezes had once sur¬ rounded it, representing contests between warriors fully armed after the Greek fashion, or moie lightly clad in tunics or naked, and wearing helmets. Sir C. Fellows imagines he can recognize, in some cases, the loose-robed bearded Lycians, witn their pecu¬ liar arms and curtained shields,the battle being that in the plains recorded by Herodotus. 2 Asiatics are certainly represented on some of the slabs with the pointed cap or cydaris, while, on other slabs is an attack on the main gate of a strongly-fortified town. On another relief is a Persian satrap seated, with the umbrella, or symbol of sovereignty, over his head, and on other slabs, are indications of a sortie from the city and of its repulse. The city may or may not be Xanthus itself, but, within the walls, are well-known monuments of that town, upright square Persians and Ionians” (Mus. of Class. Antiq. vol. i. 13 2 ) 5 Mr. Watkiss Lloyd has published an able memoir on it, entitled “ Xanthian Marbles—the Nereid Monument.” 1 This “curtain” was a sort of appendage attached to the lower end of the shield, and was intended to protect the legs from stones. It was called Xaiarjiov , and is mentioned in Horn. II. v. 453 : acnriBag IvkvkXovq XcuorfictTe irTtposvra. A vase published by Inghirami well represents the usual character of this appendage. Millingen supposes the subject of this vase to be “ Antiope leading Theseus to the walls of The- miscyra.” (Cf. Muller, Arch. d. Kunst, § 342.) 2 Some of these scenes may refer to real events in the histoiy of Xanthus ; and the Oriental chief, too, on the “Trophy ’ monu¬ ment would seem to be aided by Greek mercenaiies. 90 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS pillars or stela, four of which are represented. 1 The ■“Trophy monument,” which has been cleverly restored 1 It has been suggested that the so-called triquetra on the Lycian coins, consisting of three curved objects, like sickles or elephant-goads, or the harpa (ap 7 r?i) of Perseus, joined in the centre, is emblematic of the name of Harpagus. Such “canting heraldry” (as in. the case of Arpi in Apulia, and of Zancle in Sicily) is not, however, accepted by the best numismatists as of approved Greek use, though possible enough among a semi- Oriental population. OF ASIA MINOR. 91 by Sir Charles Fellows, as a peripteral tetrastyle temple, may be seen in the Lycian room in the British Museum. We regret, however, we cannot accept his view, that the subject of these sculptures is the capture ot Xanthus by Harpagus, as this event took place in B.C. 545 ; while none of these reliefs can be as early as B.C. 400. 1 2. The Miscellaneous reliefs found in and about the Acropolis are chiefly relics of much older buildings ; they are generally in the rough, gritty stone of the country, and have some resemblance to early Greek work, especially to the sculptures from Assos. Their chief subjects are a lion devouring a deer, and a satyr, the size of life, running along the ground. 3. The Tombs. The tomb-system, so to speak, as developed in Lycia, is a striking characteristic of that province, and has been, therefore, carefully studied by Sir Charles Fellows, who has classed them, according to their forms, under the heads of Obelisk, Gothic, and Elizabethan. The first, as the name implies, is simply a square block surmounted by a cap and cor¬ nice; the second and third have lancet-head tops or deep mullioned recesses, respectively. Of the two first the British Museum has excellent specimens; the third was chiefly used for carvings on the face of solid rocks. All alike exhibit imitations of wooden struc¬ tures with panelled doors, bossed nails, and knockers suspended from lions’ mouths. One of these tombs, the so-called Harpy-tomb, from its great curiosity, we i 1 The plate on the opposite page must not he considered as more than a possible arrangement of some of the sculptures found. 92 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS IONIC'TROPHY MONUMENT. OF ASIA MINOR. 93 must notice somewhat fully. It consists of a square column about 17J feet high, in one piece of stone, surmounted by a series of bas-reliefs, forming the walls of a square chamber, seven feet each way, and having a small door on its west side. On these walls are representations of Harpies, between whom, in each case, is a group consisting of one seated and one standing figure. There is reason to suppose the sub¬ ject of these reliefs a local myth, and, as the daughters of a Lycian hero, Pandarus, are said to have been carried off by Harpies, this is not improbably the subject here. Harpies are usually, as here, indicated with the faces, breasts, and hands of women, and with bodies and feet of vultures. It is possible that this stele may have been the tomb of some prince of the royal family of Lycia, who claimed descent from the mythical hero, Pandarus. No certain date can be assigned to it; but, had it been executed in Attica instead of Lycia, B.C. 530 would not have been too early for it. In any case, its execution must have preceded the Persian conquest of Lycia. One of the most interesting of the Gothic tombs is that of a man whose name has been read Paiafa, and who was, probably a satrap of Lycia. The top of this structure much resembles an inverted boat, with a high ridge running along it, like a keel. On each side of the roof is an armed figure in a quadriga on the 1 Herodotus remarks that the people of Bithynia carried two Lycian spears, and had helmets of brass, on the summits of which were the ears and horns of an ox. Cf. also, on coins, the helmet of Eukratides, king of Bactriana. 94 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS north side, below the tympanum , the Satrap is seated as a judge, his dress and general appearance being the same as that of the Persian on the Trophy monument. In concluding these notes on Xanthus, we may allude to some casts from a tomb at Pinara, hard by, carved on the face of the solid rock. Sir Charles -C ellows states that, in the centre of this city, there rises a round rocky cliff, speckled all over with tombs, many of them being only oblong holes, and quite inacces¬ sible. One cast gives the representation of a walled city with tombs, towers, gates, and walls; the battle¬ ments, on the whole, much resembling the town shown on the “ Trophy monument.” Another cast gives the interior of the portico of a rock tomb at Tlos, with Bellerophon, one of the heroes of Lycia, triumphing over the Chimasra. It only remains for us to notice the famous Inscribed Stele , the longest inscription yet met with in the Lycian character, and containing a notice of a son of Harpagus, and the names of several Lycian towns. On the north side, between the lines of Lucian chaiacters, is a Greek inscription m twelve hexameter lines, 1 the first from an epigram of Simo- 1 Colonel Leake (Trans, of the Roy. Soc. of Literature, vol. ii. 1S44) has given a translation of the twelve lines in Greek, showing that this monument was erected by a certain Datis, called a son of Harpagus. It states that he had gained the highest honours in the Carian games, and had slain “in one day seven heavy-armed soldiers, men of Arcadia.” The epigram of Simonides (Anthol. Brunch, vol. i. p. 134) com¬ memorates the battles at Cyprus and on the Eurymedon, B. C. 470. Another conjecture is that the son of Harpagus was called Sparsis (Leake, ibid. p. 32). Colonel Leake thinks the date of the inscription not earlier than B.C. 400. OF ASIA MINOR. 95 nides (B.C. 556), and a notice of the achievements of this son of Harpagus. The whole inscription con¬ sists of about 250 lines. Over the other towns of Lycia, Telmessus, Patara, Pinara, Myra, Tlos, and Antiphellus, it is not necessary for us to dwell at any great length, the more so that they were not, historically, of great im¬ portance, and are to us only interesting for the re¬ mains of art still visible on the spot. Telmessus was on the coast, and is now repre¬ sented by the village of Makri. 1 In ancient times it was famous for the skill of its augurs. Herodotus tells us they were often consulted by the kings of Lydia, and especially by Croesus ; and Arrian ascribes to them a remote antiquity. Their reputation long survived; for Cicero speaks of the town thus :—“ Tel¬ messus in Caria est qua in urbe excellit haruspicum disciplina ” (De Divin. i. 41). In early Christian times it had a bishop. Telmessus has been fully described by Dr. Clarke and Sir Charles Fellows. Its monumental remains are almost wholly tombs; but these are, many of them, remarkable for their beauty, as also for the extraordinary labour bestowed on them in cutting them out of the face of the rock. Sir Charles Fellows makes the curious remark, that, though the Greek population of Lycia were mainly Dorians, he did not meet with any tombs or other monuments unquestionably of the Doric order. Patara, on the left bank of the river Xanthus, 1 Fellows remarks that the Meio of the maps and of the “ Modern Traveller ” (supposed, too, by Cramer to be a corrup¬ tion of Telmessus) is not known in the country. 9 6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS was chiefly celebrated for its worship and temples of the Lycian Apollo, known by the appellation of Patareus. 1 According to Herodotus (i. 182), the priestess who delivered it was shut up in the temple every night, but the oracular responses were only occasional. The Patarsean oracle was very ancient, and considered scarcely inferior to that of Delphi. Captain Beaufort, in his account of Karamania, places the remains of Patara 2 near the shore, and notices “ a deep circular pit of singular appearance, which may have been the seat of the oracle.” Fellows alludes to “ a beautiful small temple about the centre of the ruined city,” with a doorway “ of beautiful Greek workmanship, ornamented in the Corinthian style, and in fine proportion and scale.” The port of Patara, which was too small to contain the combined fleet of the Romans and Rhodians under Regillus in the war with Antiochus (Liv. xxxvii. 17) is now com¬ pletely overgrown with brushwood, &c. The theatre is shown by an inscription to have been built (more 1 Hor. Od. iii. 4> 62 : Delius aut Patareus Apollo. Stat. Theb. i. 696 : .... Seu te Lyciae Patarsea nivosis Exercent dumeta jugis. Virg. ALn. iv. 143 : Qualis ubi hibernam Lyciam Xanthique fiuenta Deserit, ac Delum maternam invisit Apollo. On which passage Servius makes the remark that the oracles were delivered alternately,—during the winter months at Patara, and during the summer at Delos. 2 Cicero uses the Ethnic form Pataranus (Orat. in Place, c. 32). OF ASIA MINOR. 97 probably rebuilt) in the fourth consulate of Antoninus Pius, A.D. 145. Pinara, at the foot of Mount Cragus, was another of the six Lycian towns in which divine honours were paid to the hero Pandarus, Homer’s celebrated archer: its name is said to be a Lycian word for a round hill (v. Aprv/j.rr]aoc, ap. Ptol.; Plin. v. 28; Hierocl. p. 684); and such a hill, pierced everywhere for tombs, Fellows found, as we have stated, in the. very centre of it. Such a physical feature would not have been overlooked by any Greeks. He adds that “ the whole city appears to be of one date and people,” the inscriptions being generally in the Lycian character. 1 The carvings on the rock-tombs here, judging from the drawing he gives (p. 141), are of much interest and beauty. Myra, sometimes called Andriace (whence the modern Andraki ), was, according to Appian, a place of some note, and it is still remarkable for the beauty and richness of its rock-cut tombs (Pullan). The Sacred historian of St. Paul’s journeyings writes that, after quitting Sidon and Cyprus, “when we had sailed over the Sea of Cilicia and Pamphylia, we came to Myra, a city of Lycia; and there the centu¬ rion found a ship of Alexandria sailing into Italy, and he put us therein ” (Acts xxvii. 5, 6). Myra, at a late period, seems to have been the metropolis of the province (Malala, Chron. xiv. ; Hierocl. p. 684). A Nicholas, Bishop of Myra, is also mentioned (Const. Porphyr. Themist. 14). Colonel Leake ob- 1 Colonel Leake (Roy. Soc. Lit. i. p. 267) was of the opinion that the Lycian characters were modifications of Archaic Greek. H 98 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS serves that, on the banks of the river by which Lucul- lus ascended to Myra, are the ruins of a large building, which, from an inscription, appears to have been a granary, erected in the time of Hadrian ; 1 and Fellows adds that “ the tombs are generally very large, and all appear to have been for families, some having small chambers, one leading to the other, and some highly interesting from their interior peculiarities of arrangement.” Many bas-reliefs within the porticos of the tombs still retain their original colour, as may be seen on the casts from them in the British Museum. Tlos and Antiphellus, though occasionally men¬ tioned in ancient times, had been well-nigh forgotten till these and other sites were diligently sought out by modern travellers. Leake speaks of the latter as con¬ taining a theatre nearly complete, with many catacombs and sarkophagi, some very large and magnificent; and Fellows thinks the tombs here the largest in Lycia. “ The rocks for miles round,” he says, “ are strewn with their fragments, and many hundreds are still standing, apparently unopened.” Tlos, of which we know little more than that it lay on the road to Cibyra, was first accurately determined by Sir Charles Fellows, who considered the original city must have been demolished in very early times, as “ finely-wrought fragments are now seen built into the strong walls which have fortified the town raised upon its ruins.” The theatre was the most highly- 1 Beaufort gives a minute description of this building, and states that it is 200 feet long, with walls 20 feet high. The inscription on it, “ Horrea Imp. Caesaris Divi Traiani Hadriani, ”&c., proves .that it has been a granary: it was divided into seven separate compartments. OF ASIA MINOR. 99 finished he had seen, for the seats were not only of polished marble, but each seat had an overhanging cornice, often supported by lions’ paws. An inscrip¬ tion found there records the name of Sarpedon, showing that the name of the mythical hero of Lycia was still preserved among the people. The name for tomb at Tlos is always Heroum. As the provinces are so closely connected, we shall take Pampliylia and Pisidia together, simply selecting from them such sites as seem of the highest interest. We shall, therefore, notice first Attalia (the modern Adalia), although there has been some dispute among geographers whether Adalia does really occupy the site of the old city: the true course of a stream called Catarrhactes, 1 from its plunging headlong over precipices into the sea, being still undetermined, has mainly led to this confusion. The probability is that, owing to the agency of earthquakes, the coast¬ line has been much changed during the last 2,000 years: moreover, Colonel Leake and others believe the calcareous matter brought down, in this period by the different streams, sufficient to cause the cessation of any such cascade, the main stream having been also much diverted to fertilize the gardens round the town. The physical changes have in fact, been so great, that it is more wonderful that anything can be determined on a certain and satisfactory basis. Captain Beaufort thought the modern town occupied the site of Olbia. 2 1 Colonel Leake remarks that, after heavy rains, the river precipitates itself copiously over the cliffs near the projecting point of the coast, a little to the west of Laara. 2 “ The delightful situation of this place,” says he, “ appears H 2 IOO GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS On the other hand, Leake considered Adalia the representative of Attalia, and that Olbia would probably be found in some part of the plain which extends for seven miles from the modern Adalia to the foot of Mount Solyma.” Attalia derived its name from Attalus Philadelphus. From it, St. Paul and St. Barnabas, on their return, sailed to the Syrian Antioch (Acts xiv. 25). In later times it was the seat of a bishopric. It is now the principal southern Turkish port of Asia Minor, and has many ancient remains. Leake remarks on “ the walls and other fortifications, the magnificent gate or triumphal arch, bearing an in scription in honour of Hadrian, an aqueduct, and the numerous fragments of sculpture and architecture.” 1 Fellows adds :—“ Adalia, which is called by the Turks Atalia, I prefer to any Turkish town that I have yet visited ; every house has its garden, and consequently the town has the appearance of a wood, and of what ? —orange, lemon, fig, vine, mulberry, all cultivated with the artificial care of a town garden, and now (April 3) in fresh spring beauty.” It was from Attalia, or from its neighbourhood, that Mark “ turned back” 1 (Acts xiii. 13). Nearly due N. of Attalia was Perge, famous in to have been clearly alluded to in the ancient name Olbia, de¬ rived from the adjective oXfiiog, blessed or happy ” (Kara- rnania, p. 137). 1 Mr. Davis notices the great gate, the inside of it being “ceiled” with small squares of fine white marble and bearing the curious inscription, to ipyov Tt}g nXcucwatug rrjg tt vXijc — nAa/caung does not occur in classical Greek ; but 7rXa£ is a flat surface, and ttX aicou) is to cover with such pieces. Hence, •TrXaicwTTjg jxapfxapov is one who overlays with marble. In the OF ASIA MINOR. IOI olden times for the temple and worship of Artemis Pergaea. 1 The date of the city is uncertain, but it lasted, as an ecclesiastical centre, till late in the Byzan¬ tine times. Alexander, in his march eastwards, occu¬ pied Perge, finding, as might have been expected, much difficulty in his advance through the adjacent mountains: St. Paul, too, and St. Barnabas were here twice; first, on their way from Cyprus; and, secondly, on their return to Syria. The ruins noticed by General Kohler, at a place called Eski Kalesi, were probably those of this place. The theatre and stadium are still quite perfect. On these walls and other buildings the Greek shield is constantly carved, reminding the spec¬ tator of the passage in Ezekiel, xxvii. 11, “ They hanged their shields upon thy walls round about ” Passing along the coast to the east we come to the Eurymedon, physically a small stream, yet cele¬ brated in history for the double defeat, on one and the same day, of the Persians by Cimon. The Persian ships were drawn up at the mouth of the river, but, at the first attack, the crews fled to the shore. Cimon then landed his men, and after a severe struggle the camp and baggage were taken (Thucyd. i. ioo ; Plut. Vit. Cimon.). Some years later, a Rhodian fleet anchored off its mouth before attacking the fleet of commencement of their journey Attalia is not mentioned by name, but only Perga (Acts xiii. 13). ! Perge is mentioned in Callimachus’s Hymn to Diana, v. 1S7 : Nr/rrwj/ p'ev AoXixrj, 7 roXicJvde tol evade Yl'epyi] ; and in Dionysius Periegetes, v. 854: ”AXXat d’ i£eir]Q TIap acnjXig . 102 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS Antiochus, then commanded by Hannibal (Livy ? xxxvii.). The entrance of this stream is now com¬ pletely blocked up by a bar. 1 On the Eurymedon was seated the old Argive town of Aspendus, some of the coins of which read, barbarously, EETFEANY2. Thucydides speaks of it as a seaport; but he, probably, means that it was a boat-station at the mouth of the river. Aspendus is noticed by Arrian, and was the place where Thrasybulus was slain in his tent by the natives; it is also mentioned in the campaign of Manlius (Liv. xxxviii.; Polyb. xxii.). 2 Mr. Pullan gives a beau tiful drawing of its theatre, which is by far the most perfect in Asia Minor. One other place of con¬ siderable reputation in Pamphylia must be briefly noted; viz. Side, a colony of the Cumseans ot ./Eolis, and remarkable for the fact that, soon after they came there they forgot their native Greek tongue, and spoke a barbarous jargon. It was off this town the battle was fought when the fleet of Antiochus, under Hannibal, was utterly routed by the Rhodians. When, somewhat later, the pirates of Cilicia became so formidable, Side was one of their chief harbours, and one of the markets where they disposed of their ill gotten plunder. Side was in Roman times the capital 1 Dr. Arnold has shown that, in the account in Thucyd. i. ioo, the phrase diecpOtipav rag 7raaag sg rag dicncocrtctg means that the number of the ships destroyed by the Athenians was, in all, 200, not that there were no more, as some writers have supposed. 2 From Dionys. Peri eg. 852, it would seem that Venus had a peculiar worship there—for tvQa ovonToviya 1 Anovairjv tKaovrai. OF ASIA MINOR. 103 of Pamphylia prima , and was still in existence when Hierocles wrote. Capt. Beaufort found it utterly de¬ serted ; but its remains would seem to be very striking, especially its outer walls and theatre, which is not less than 409 feet in external diameter, with a perpendi¬ cular height, from the area, of 79 feet: all its seats are, Capt. Beaufort says, of white marble, and the building could have held 13,370 persons, sitting comfortably ; it is, he adds, “ in a very perfect state; few of the seats have been disturbed, even the stairs are, in general, passable.” The same observer considered that, at some later period, this great structure had been converted into a fortress, as walls, with towers and gates, but of inferior work, now extend to the seashore. Our knowledge of the ancient geography of Pisidia is mostly derived from Arrian’s notice of Alexander’s march, from Livy’s account of the expedition of C. Manlius Vulso, and from the details in Polybius of the hostilities carried on by Garsyeris, the general of Achseus, against the people of Termessus, one of its chief cities. At the time Manlius was ap¬ proaching this town the Termessians were in open war with the people of Isionda or Isinda, and, having captured this city, were besieging the citadel. The Roman general was not sorry to have so good a pretext for interfering; hence his march on Isinda, his relief of that city, and his fining the Termes¬ sians fifty talents. A glance at the map suggests that he must have come in, by the defiles of Milyas, near a place now called Al-Malu. The pre¬ sumed ruins of Isinda have been noticed by M. 104 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS Coransez, as extending over nearly a square league, and as remarkable for their massive structure. Termessus itself was evidently at the entrance of the defiles whereby Pisidia communicates with Pam- phylia and Lycia. Arrian says that “ the men of Termessus occupy a site very lofty and precipitous on every side, the road passing close to the city being very difficult, as the mountain reaches down from the city to the road. There is over against this, another mountain not less precipitous, and these form a gate, as it were, on the road,” &c. This statement is fully confirmed by the observation of General Kohler (ap. Leake, Asia Minor, pp. 133—135): “The two great ranges on the west and north of the plains of Adalia,” says he, “ now approach each other, and, at length, are only divided by the passes through which the river finds its way. The road, however, leaves this gorge to the right, and ascends the mountain by a paved and winding causeway, a work of great labour and ingenuity.” 1 Alexander the Great, it would seem, despaired of taking the town; or, possibly, thought its siege would detain him too long; he, however, forced the defiles, passing on to the north to Cormasa, Cremna, and Sagalassus, a course probably 1 There is some confusion between the two Termessi, one of which is apparently to the left of the road passing W. and N. W. from Adalia. This we think was Termessus Minor —the Almalti of Mr. Davis. The more important place, Termessus Major (on its coins was at the head of the pass described. These views are confirmed by Eustath. and Dion. Perieg. v. 858, Stephan. Byzant., and Hierocles. At a later period, the see of Termessus had united with it the churches of two other places— Jovia and Eudocia. OF ASIA MINOR. 105 pursued by Manlius subsequently. 1 Cremna, where, owing to its great natural strength, the Romans placed a colony (Strab. xii. 569), has been carefully examined by Mr. Davis (“ Anatolica,” p. 182), who gives also a plan, showing the construction of this remarkable fortress. His description is as follows : 2 “ It (Kremna) is a plateau of limestone, which is bounded on three sides by precipices, some extremely deep and abrupt.” “ From it,” he adds, “ the country inclined rapidly in its general formation to the valley of the Kestrus, which must have been at least 5,000 feet below us. .... Most of the buildings of the city lay to the N.W. of our point of ascent. On the N.E. and N. was an extensive open space cultivated, but with many oak trees and with much underwood scattered over it.”.Zosimus (A.D. 425) relates the his¬ tory of the blockade of Kremna by a Roman army. It had been occupied by Lydius, an Isaurian free¬ booter, and his provisions falling short, he caused a part of the plateau to be sowed with corn. A 1 Cramer and some other geographers place Cremna to the N. as well as the E. of Sagalassus, where it could not have been. 2 The description in Arundell, vol. ii. pp. 59, &c., shows that he had explored the same ruins forty years before Mr. Davis, under the idea they were those of Selge, though, on his plate, he adds the words, ‘‘Acropolis of Germe—Cremna.” Colonel Leake, too, suggested that “Germe” was perhaps a corruption of “ Cremna.” Had Mr. Arundell reflected on an inscription he himself copied there . . A AH . . NATQN, he might have seen that the last word could naturally be supplied as KPHM- NATQN—“ of the people of Kremna.” Zosimus says the wind¬ ing path up to the fortress was called by the natives the Snail. io6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS great double gate is the only structure still standing,, and, as all the columns have fallen exactly in the same direction, Mr. Davis reasonably conjectures they were overthrown by a single shock of an earthquake.. Some well-paved streets are traceable, one 18 feet wide, with tombs and corridors running along each side. It is curious that a place so remarkable, physi¬ cally, is scarcely mentioned by ancient writers. Thus, it is not noticed in the campaign of Alexander, who must have passed under it, but it was taken by Strabo’s contemporary, the Galatian Amyntas (xii. 569), 1 and was still later, as we have stated, a Roman colony with the title “ Colonia Julia Augusta Cremna.” Its name is obviously derived from tcprjfn'oe, an over¬ hanging precipice. 2 Kremna was a Christian bishopric, but only one of its bishops, Theodoras, is recorded. Sagalassus was taken by Alexander, after a severe conflict, the result being, says Arrian, that all the rest of Pisidia submitted to his arms (i. 28). On the other hand, Manlius contented himself with ravaging the territory around it; thereby compelling the Sa- galassians to pay a heavy contribution both of money and produce. Both Arrian and Livy bear testimony to the warlike and independent character of the mountaineers of this part of Asia Minor; while Strabo adds that it passed over to the Romans, as one of the towns of Amyntas, the tetrarch of Lycaonia. Sagalassus is further noticed by Pliny and 1 ’A p.vvrag . 7 roXXa ^wot'a e^eTKe v, cnt6p9r)Ta tt porepov ovra, u)v k ai Kprjfiva (Strab. xii. 569). 2 Zosimus’s description is exactly to the point:—K prjpvav . . . ev a.7roicpr]fiv(p te KEifievrjv icai Kara pkpog %apadpaig (SaOvTaraig oxvpcjpEvijv (i. c. 69). OF ASIA MINOR. 107 Ptolemy, and, in Christian times, was a bishopric. Some magnificent ruins, at a great height above the plain, have been proved by Mr. Arundell to be those of this place, as he found there an inscription reading SArAAASSEON IIOAIS TH2 IHSIAIAS, “The City of the Sagalassians of Pisidia.” The position of the old town, as may be seen in one of the engravings in Mr. ArundelFs second Journey, is exceedingly picturesque; and we may feel sure Arrian is correct in stating that Alexander encountered a stiff resistance from its inhabitants ere he forced his way into the town. The existing remains of Sagalassus are mostly Roman, but there is one very old wall of polygonal masonry. One of the principal ruins, with a por¬ tico 300 feet long by 27 feet wide, has probably been a Christian church: there is, also, a singu¬ larly perfect theatre. The ruins of the Christian church exhibit a building of vast proportions, con¬ structed of huge blocks of marble, with Corinthian columns two feet in diameter. A large cross is cut deep into one of the blocks at the principal entrance. Mr. Hamilton, who calls the modern village Allahsun, says that “there is no other ruined city in Asia Minor, the situation and extensive remains of which are so striking, or so interesting, or which give so perfect an idea of the magnificent combination of temples, palaces, theatres, gymnasia, fountains, and tombs which adorned the cities of the ancient world.” 1 1 Hamilton adds—“To the south is a high, insulated, and conical hill, agreeing with Arrian’s description of the Acropolis,. Xotyog 7rpo rijg tt oXeojg —a hill in front of the city.” I08 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS One other place in Pisidia we have yet to men¬ tion, Selge, of old one of its chief cities, yet, strange to say, at present unidentified, or only so doubtfully. Originally a colony from Lacedaemon, Selge maintained throughout its whole history the character of its founders, and, probably, owing to better laws and government, soon surpassed all the neighbouring towns in population and power, Strabo believing that it once had as many as 20,000 inhabitants. Much of its success was due to the security of its position, high among the moun¬ tains and difficult of access. Hence, the Selgians retained their personal freedom, and, though more than once compelled to pay heavily and deservedly for their own aggressions, were never dispossessed of their town by actual conquest. Naturally, they were constantly in conflict with their neighbours, especially, with Telmessus and Pednelissus. 1 They had, however, the sense to conciliate Alexander when he passed through their country. In the war with Pednelissus, it would seem that, aided by the then most powerful chief of the neighbouring country, Achseus compelled the Selgians to sue for peace, to pay down 400 talents, to restore the prisoners they had taken, and to give 300 talents more. Yet, in an actual attack on the city he was repulsed with heavy loss (Polyb. v. 72-77). The coins of Selge 1 It should be noted here, that the finding gold or silver coins at a place is not alone sufficient evidence for its name, though such a discovery is a presumption in favour of it. Where, how¬ ever, a large number of small copper coins are found, the presump¬ tion becomes very strong. Obviously, gold and silver coins may, easily, pass from one site to another, simply as objects of commerce. OF ASIA MINOR. IO9 prove its existence till a late date. One would have thought that such a place, would have left remains behind it amply sufficient for its identification; yet all we can say, certainly, of it is that it could not have been far to the east or south-east of Sagalassus. From Zosimus, we might be led to look for it between the Cestius and Eurymedon, for Tribigildus, having crossed the latter, found himself enclosed between it and the Melas : and possibly, Fellows did discover it. “ On this promontory/’ says he, “ stood one of the finest cities that probably ever existed, now presenting magni¬ ficent wrecks of grandeur. I rode for at least three miles through a part of the city, which was one pile of temples, theatres, and buildings, vieing with each other in splendour. . . . The material of the ruins, like those near Alaysoon (Sagalassus) had suffered much from ex¬ posure to the elements . . . but the scale, the simple grandeur, and the beauty of style bespoke its date to be early Greek. The sculptured cornices frequently contain groups of figures fighting, wearing helmets, and body armour, with shields and long spears.” Unfortunately, Fellows did not find a single legible in¬ scription, but the remains are, very likely, what Beau¬ fort heard of at Alaya ; viz., “extensive remains of an ancient Greek city with many temples, about fifteen hours’ distance (say 35 miles) to the northward.” 1 The neighbourhood of Selge produced, and produces, two useful botanical substances; one, the balsam of styrax or storax (liquid-amber orientalis), the juice of an umbrageous- tree like the plane. Krinos (wtpi Srvpaicog, Athens, 1862—) shows it has been correctly described by Aetius and Paulus* yRgineta in the 6th and 7th centuries. It is noticed, also, in the Travels of the Russian Abbot of Tver, A.D. 1113-5. The iio GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS Lastly, we must give an account of the Pisidian, or more accurately, the Phrygian, Antioch, a town of the highest interest to the Christian reader, from its connection with St. Paul’s early labours. It is re¬ markable that, 50 years ago, its position was not known, though the ancient notices of it, carefully studied, seem to point out, pretty clearly, where it ought to have been found. Little is known of this Antioch in early times, but it was, traditionally, a colony of Magnesia on the Maeander. Afterwards, like almost all the towns of Eastern and Central Asia Minor, it fell under the rule of the Seieucidse, and, on their over¬ throw, was given by the Romans to Eumenes of Pergamus as one of the rewards for his faithful alliance. Subsequently, it was, for a while, under author of the “ Periplus” states that, in his time, storax went, as it does now, by way of the Red Sea to India. In India it is called Rose Malloes (Rosa Mallas, Rosum Alloes, Rosmal), perhaps from the Malay, Rasamala. This gum is extracted now by the Yuruk Turkomans, and is still used in the churches and mosques of S. Asia Minor for incense. One form of this substance is Resina Benzoe—Gum Benjamin , or Benzoin (Ibn Batuta s Travels, A.D. 1325-49—who says it comes from Java, and is called Java Frankincense or Camphor). The popular name is a corruption of Lubdn Jdwi into Banjawi, Sec. Crawfurd thinks it the old Malabathrum. It is stated by Vasco da Gama to be a product of Xarnuz (Siam). The other substance is Rhizoma Imdis (popularly Orris-root), used of old for giving a sweet odour to unguents {see Theophras¬ tus, Dioskorides, and Pliny). The ancient arms of Florence were a white lily or iris on a red shield. Orris-root was used as a per¬ fume in England in 1480 (Wardrobe Accounts of Edward IV.), and, according to Gerarde, was grown here. In Tuscany it is still grown under the name of Giaggiolo. OF ASIA MINOR. Ill Amyntas the Lycaonian. At an early period of the empire, Antioch was known as Caesarea, and some¬ what later, according to Ulpian, its citizens enjoyed the Jus Italicum, that is, the same privileges as native Romans. At the time of St. Paul’s visit it was the centre of a great commercial activity. Ac¬ cording to Strabo, Antioch was on the south side of the mountain boundary of Phrygia and Pisidia (p- 577 )? Philomelium, a Phrygian town, being exactly to the north, the latter standing on level ground, while Antioch stood on a small eminence. 1 It was reserved for Mr. Arundell to show, almost certainly, its true site, 2 and his description is exceedingly interesting. Almost his first discovery was a “ long and immense building, constructed with prodigious stones, and standing south and west.” This was a church, not improbably constructed on the site of the Synagogue where St. Paul preached. “ The remains of the aqueduct,” he adds, “ of which twenty-one 1 All geographers, even Colonel Leake, seem to have gone astray here, in their interpretation of Strabo. Thus, D’Anville placed Antioch at Ak-Shehr (12 or 13 miles to the N., on the real site of Philomelium), and such, too, would seem to have been • the opinion of the Latin historians of the Crusades, and even of Anna Comnena. In the Peutinger tables, a great road is marked from Iconium to Side, with a branch to Antioch. This is well explained, if the present Yalobatck represents Antioch. 2 We do not discredit Mr. Arundell’s discovery, if we say that, in the actual text of his travels, he rather suggests a strong pro¬ bability than proves his discovery. He did not find any inscrip¬ tion with the name of the town. His argument is, however, a strong inference that no other place in that neighbourhood, but Antioch, could have left such vast remains. 112 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS arches are perfect, are the most splendid I ever beheld, the stones without cement, of the same massy dimensions as the wall.” A little further on he met with undoubted remains of a Temple of Bacchus, with the thyrsus or Bacchic emblem, and an inscription stating that one Calpurnius was “ High Priest for life to the most glorious god Antioch of pisidia. Bacchus.” Another building, Mr. Arundell thinks r from the number of fluted columns, must have been a portico, “ or the Temple of Lunus, or of Men Arcaeus. whose worship was established at Antioch.” 1 Le 1 Strabo speaks of the worship of this deity (}sponvvrj rig M rjvog ’Apicaiov) at Antioch in olden times. It seems to have been OF ASIA MINOR. IJ 3 Quien, in his “ Oriens Christianus,” enumerated twenty-six bishops of Antioch. One of these, Metho¬ dius, and six other metropolitans subscribed the protest of the Eastern Church against the errors of Calvin. Hamilton, subsequently, found at Antioch an inscription reading ANTIOCHEAE CAESARE, which proves the truth of Arundell’s inferences (i. p. 474). Cilicia had but few towns of much importance, and these chiefly on the coast or not far inland. Indeed, when we have mentioned Tarsus, Soli, Mallus, and Mopsuestia, we have noticed the principal places in this province. Of these, Tarsus 1 alone calls for any abolished for some time, but to have been, revived in Roman days, as coins exist with the god Lunus leaning on a column, and the legend COL. MEN. ANTIOCH, or MENSIS. COL. CAES. ANTIOCH.; and inscriptions exist with the name of L. Flavius Paulus — who is termed CVRATORI ARCHi SANCTVARII. Strabo, a native of Amasia, states that a god called Men Pharnaces was worshipped at Cabira. From the coins we further learn, that the river at Antioch was called Antihos or Anthos, with ANTIOCH. COL., and the type of a woman reclining. 1 We can see no reason for supposing Tarsus the “Tarshish” of the Bible. It did not export the kind of produce entrusted to the “ ships of Tarshish,” while the notices of it in the Bible (Gen. x. 4; 1 Chron. i. 7; Psalm lxxiv.; Isaiah lxvi. 19), imply a town or territory in the far west, whence, only, some •of these products (as tin), so far as we know, were then obtain¬ able. Hence we find the Phoenicians sailing thither in “long ships” (Ezek. xxvii. 12, xxviii. 13; Jerem. x. 9); while the Roman writers, as Ovid (Met. xiv. 416), Silius Italicus (iii. 399), and Claudian (Epist. iii. v. 14), evidently use the name Tartessus as synonymous with “West.” On the whole, it is most likely that Tartessus in Spain (considered loosely as a district rather I 114 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS lengthened description. Of the early history of this city little is known, but a tradition, illustrated by one of its coins, asserted that Sardanapalus was buried there. 1 Its situation, however, led to its becoming the capital of Cilicia, a position it long retained. Tarsus stood on a rich and fertile plain on both sides of the river Cydnus. Historically, it is first noticed by Xenophon, as, in his day, a great and wealthy city, under a Persian satrap named Syennesis, the unwise ally of Cyrus the Younger. It remained under the Persian rule till the time of Alexander the Great, who nearly lost his life by imprudently bathing when too hot in the Cydnus (Curt. iii. 5; Arrian, ii. 4). In later daysitwas, generally, under the Seleucidse, though, for a brief period, subject to the second and third Ptolemy. Supporting the cause of Caesar, the great Julius him¬ self paid Tarsus a visit, when the Tarsians changed the name of their city to Juliopolis. Augustus made it a “libera civitas.” Hence, St. Paul, her most illustrious son, spoke truly, when he said it was “ no mean city,” than as a town) represents the Biblical Tarshish, and that “ships of Tarshish” is a term equivalent with “Indiamen.” 1 A fine specimen of this coin (one of Antioclms VIII., king of Syria) was in the cabinet of the late General C. R. Fox. It was found, in 1848, in a leaden box, between Adana and Tarsus, some twenty feet under the surface of the ground. It has been engraved, by Mr. Vaux, in his “ Nineveh and Persepo- lis,” 4th ed. 1856, p. 62. As its type—the so-called tomb of Sardanapalus—is found on other coins of Tarsus, as late as the time of Gordian, it is certain this myth maintained its hold on the popular mind for a long period. The story of the pageant of Cleopatra (Plut. Vit. Antonii) shows that the Cydnus must, in those days, have been navigable up to Tarsus, some eight or nine miles from the sea. OF ASIA MINOR. TI 5 and urged with equal truth and justice that he was free-born, 5 while his judge had only obtained this light at a great price.” The fact is, its position on the immediate confines of Syria and of Mesopotamia was of the highest importance to'the Romans in their conflict with the Parthians and Persians. It still retains its old name, slightly modified into Tarsous, and is still the chief city of this part of Karamania. Tarsus 1 was famous in early days for a remark¬ able class of coins, known as Satrap-money. Among these are coins of Tiribazus, Pharnabazus, Syennesis^ and of other rulers, between B.C. 410 and B.C. 370! A description of a coin of Pharnabazus will show their general character. On the obverse of this silver piece is a bearded and helmeted head, possibly the mythological type of Bellerophon or Perseus, either of which would be appropriate to the Grseco- Asiatic population of Cilicia, and the name of Pharna¬ bazus in Phoenician letters. On the reverse, is a seated 1 epresentation of the Jupiter of Tarsus, with the legend, Baal-Tarz, evidently the Zeus Tersios of the Greeks, recorded on another coin as AIOS TAPSE 12 N. “Of the Jupiter of the Tarsians.” The Due de Luynes attributed this coin to the famous Pharnaba¬ zus (B.C. 4 i 3 p 374 ), who, originally Satrap of the N.W. distiict of Asia Minor, is memorable for the steady lesistance he made to the Greeks, while the ruler of Strabo has noted the studious habits of the Tarsians; no other city, not even Athens and Alexandria, surpassing it in the number and character of its schools. He adds, moreover, that the learned seldom remained in the city, but, like St. Paul, mi¬ grated elsewhere to complete their studies. Il6 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS Lydia, Tissaphernes, on the other hand, accepted Lacedaemonian gold. If so, this coin must have been struck when Pharnabazus had given (B.C. 397 ? ^) the command of the Persian fleet to the Athenian Conon, as Tarsus was then the centre of the opera¬ tions against Cyprus. Another extremely rare coin of Pharnabazus, with his name in Greek, was struck at Lampsacus in Mysia, perhaps, for the payment of the Greek mercenaries of Artaxerxes. The towns along the coast of Cilicia have been very carefully studied by Captain Beaufort, who has identified many of them. The first of these, passing from W. to E., was Coracesium, a place historically interesting as having been held for a long time by Diodotus Tryphon, who, having revolted from Anti- ochus, set the first example of active defiance to the Seleucidae; Coracesium was, also, the last place where the pirates made a united resistance to the forces of Pompey. 1 The whole story of these freebooters is very interesting. It is clear that their successes were mainly due to two things; first, the peculiar fit¬ ness of their ports along the seashore of Cilicia for prolonged resistance, with the high range of Taurus to fall back on if over-pressed; and, secondly, to 1 Anchiale, which Colonel Leake thought the fort of Tarsus, like that city, claimed Sardanapalus as its founder. The legend was that Sardanapalus, the son of Anakyndaraxes, elected, in one day, the cities of Anchiale and Tarsus. No one, nowadays, accepts the verses given by Strabo, relating to this Sardanapalus and his deeds, as genuine, and Aristotle says the sentiments in them are fitter for the grave of an ox than for the tomb of a king (Cic. Tusc. Disput. v. 35). An early writer, Amyntas, records what recent research has shown to be probably the truth, viz. that Sardanapalus was buried at Nineveh. OF ASIA MINOR. 117 the internecine squabbles of the kings of Cyprus, Egypt, and Syria with themselves and with the Romans, which made it, from time to time, the in¬ terest of each party to wink at their worst deeds. The Sacred Island of Delos was their chief western entrepot; the increasing luxury of the Romans at the same time giving ample encouragement to their traffic in slaves. The promontory of Alaya, identified by Captain Beaufort with Coracesium, rises, he says, abruptly “ from a low, sandy isthmus which is separated from the mountains by a broad plain; two of its sides are cliffs of great height, and absolutely perpendicular, in¬ deed the eastern side, on which the town is placed, is so steep that the houses seem to rest on each other.” Other places along this coast eastwards are, Laertes (the birthplace of Diogenes Laertius), enl XoQov fiaa- roEidovc, “ on a hill, in form like a woman’s breast,” and Selinus, a river and a town (now Selinty), the first of which is mentioned by Strabo, and the second by Livy. Its later name of Trajanopolis it owed to the sudden death there of the Emperor Trajan (A.D. 117), but, at a later period, the old name was revived in connection with an episcopal church (Hierocles). Beaufort speaks of its magnificent cliffs—“On the highest point of these,” he says, “ are the ruins of a castle which commands the ascent of the hill in every direction, and looks perpendicularly down on the sea.” He notices also several other large structures, and, among these, a mausoleum (perhaps that of Trajan), an agora, a theatre, and an aqueduct. The supposed mausoleum, 70 feet long and 50 feet wide, is con¬ structed of large well-cut blocks of stone, and contains Il8 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS only one vault. Cyprus, distant sixty-five miles, can be clearly seen from this headland. The next important seaport was Anemurium (now Anamur ), in the neighbourhood of which Beaufort discovered a perfect city of tombs. “ These tombs, 1 ” says he, “ are small buildings detached from each other and mostly of the same size, though varying in their proportions; the roofs are arched, and the exterior of the walls is dashed with a composition of plaster and small particles of burnt red brick. Each tomb consists of two chambers: the inner one is subdivided into cells or receptacles for the bodies, and the outer apartment is supplied with small re¬ cesses and shelves, as if for the purpose of depositing the funereal offerings, or the urns that contained the ashes. The castle strongly resembles some of the ancient castles of Great Britain. Its keep or citadel is placed on a small rocky eminence, and commands two open courts.The extreme dimensions are about 800 feet by 300 feet.” Celenderis (now ChelindreJi) was noted in ancient history as the place which Piso, the enemy of German- icus, attempted to take (Tacit. An. xi. 80), and appears, also, in the Ecclesiastical annals, as one of the epis¬ copal towns of Isauria. As the nearest point of com¬ munication with Cyprus, it is still occupied by a small population. There are some remains of a fortress which Tacitus describes as of great strength; while many arched vaults, sepulchres and sarkophagi may be seen on the spot. All along this part of the coast of Cilicia the presence of the Crusaders is clearly shown in the names of existing places, as, for instance, in Cavaliere and Provencal Island; indeed, Vertot records that, OF ASIA MINOR. 11.9 during the settlement of the Christian knights at Rhodes, they took possession of several islands and castles along the shores of Asia Minor. Another place, some eight or nine miles inland, Selefkeh, the an¬ cient Seleuceia ad Calycadnum, is also specially noticed by De Jauna in his History of Armenia, as given by the king of Armenia to the knights of Rhodes for their services. This town, which owed its real or supposed origin to Seleukus Nicator, was famous for its schools of literature and philoso¬ phy : Athenaeus and Xenarchus, two well-known Peri¬ patetics, having been born there. Seleucia was still in existence in the time of Ammianus, and the eccle¬ siastical historians, Socrates and Sozomen, speak of Councils having been held here. Beaufort reports the existence at Selefkeh of many ruins on the west side of the river, and, especially, of an enormous reservoir lined with hard cement (the “ opus Signinum ” or “ Coccio pesto ” of the Roman aqueducts). This structure is 150 feet long by 75 feet broad and 35 feet deep, and could, therefore, have held nearly 10,000 tons of water. A little further on is a place called Korghoz , possibly, the Corycus of antiquity, and the site of the Corycian cave, in mythology, the fabled abode of the giant, Typhos; 1 but, more probably, the crater of an ex- 1 Pynd. Pith. i. 31, thus speaks of him and of his home :— T v(p(ijg aicaTov icdpavoQ' rbv ttote KiXlkiov Bpeipav rroXvu)- Wfxov ai~rpov* He is also called, Pyth. viii. 26, Tvtpojg Kt\t£ t - KaToytcpavoc . 320 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS tinct volcano. Strabo says it was a deep and broad circular valley, the lower part nigged, but covered with shrubs and evergreens, and, especially, with saffron, which was abundant here. From an in¬ ternal cavity gushed forth a copious stream, which, for a while lost, after a brief course, reappeared near the sea, which it joined. This was called the “ bitter water. 5 ’ Beaufort found two places bearing the name of Korgho Kalaler (castles), there being many signs in the neighbourhood of the former existence of a city of considerable size :—“ A mole of great unhewn rocks projects at one angle from the fortress about ioo yards across the bay, terminated by a solid building twenty feet square. 551 Can this be the re¬ mains of an ancient pharos or lighthouse ? We should add that the places, hitherto described, belong to what was usually called Cilicia Tracheia; those we shall now notice, belonging, on the other hand, to the plain country. Of these we take first, Soli, a colony (Strabo tells us) from Lindus, a relationship the Solians did not forget during subsequent negotiations with the Ro¬ mans. Soli is first mentioned in Xenophon’s Ana¬ basis, and must, in the following seventy years, have rapidly increased, as Alexander the Great fined the people 200 talents for their attachment to the Persian empire. After having been destroyed by Tigranes, vEschylus, too, gives him the same epithet of “hundred- headed.”—Prom. Vinct. 350. 1 Pomponius Mela (i. 13) gives an even fuller description of this famous cave, probably from the same original author, Callisthenes. OF ASIA MINOR. 121 Pompey placed there some of the Cilician pirates whom he had spared; at the same time changing the name of the city to Pompeiopolis. Most of the existing remains are, therefore, Roman. “ The first object/’ says Beaufort, “which presented itself on landing was a beautiful harbour or basin, with parallel sides and circular ends; it is entirely artificial, being formed by surrounding moles or walls fifty feet in thickness and seven feet in height.Opposite to the entrance of the harbour a portico rises from the surrounding quay, and opens to a double row of two hundred columns which, crossing the town, com¬ municates with the principal gate towards the country; and from the outside of that gate a paved road con¬ tinues, in the same line, to a bridge over a small river .Even in its present state of wreck, the effect of the whole is so imposing, that the most illi¬ terate seaman in the ship could not behold it without emotion.” The actual execution of these columns is, however, poor; and, of the original two hundred, only forty-four are now standing. 1 Soli was the birthplace of Chrysippus, Philemon, and Aratus. Adana, which is noticed first in the Mithradatic War, by Appian, and, subsequently, by Pliny, Pto- lemy, Dio Cassius, Procopius, and the Byzantine It has been said that the term speaks of 01 JidtjporsKToi fg Xa- Xi 'Peg. OF ASIA MINOR. *53 the town of Zela, that Caesar defeated the troops of the despicable traitor Pharnaces so quickly, that he announced his victory in the famous words, u Veni, Vidi, Vici ” (“ I came, I saw, I conquered ”) (Hist Bell. Alex. c. 72 ; Plut. Vit. Caes.; Sueton. Caes. c. 37). The history of Pontus is closely interwoven with that of the famous Mithradates; but, into this, we have not the space to enter here. Paphlagonia is chiefly famous for the vast forests- that clothed the southern and more hilly portions of its territory, and for its vast herds of horses, mules,. ” or wherever else these barbarians are able to repeat the habits and practices of their fore¬ fathers. OF ASIA MINOR. 1^! Rhodus, an island about ten miles from the south¬ west end of Lycia, next claims our attention, as one of the most important of the Greek settlements of anti¬ quity, and as retaining still something of its ancient splendour. In remote ages as the adopted abode of the Telchines, a celebrated brotherhood of artists, probably of Phoenician origin, Rhodes soon became famous for its cultivation of the arts, so imported, lead¬ ing, as these did, naturally, to a civilization much in advance of the people around them. Its early history abounds with many legendary tales, which we regret we cannot insert here (but see Pindar 01 . vii. ; Horn. 11. ii. 653). The Rhodians, no doubt from their early connections with the Phoenicians, were among the greatest navigators of antiquity, and this, too, earlier than B.C. 776, when the Olympian games are said to have been instituted: hence the foundation by them of very remote colonies in Sicily, Italy, and Spain; in the latter country, especially Rosas , which, remarkably enough, retains its ancient name, but slightly modified.. The Rhodian code of naval laws became too, as i& well known, not only the law of the Mediterranean, but the basis of the law of much more modern times. 1 he people of this island did not, perhaps, for pru¬ dential reasons, join in the Ionian revolt or in the Persian war. In the Peloponnesian war, too, they did not take an active part, though serving (according to Thucydides), with reluctance, on the side of Athens, against the people of Syracuse and Gela. In those days they were chiefly valued as light troops, especially, as darters and slingers. In the cause of Darius Codomannus M 9 162 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS against Alexander, the Rhodians supported Memnon, the ablest admiral of the day, whose death, perhaps more than that of any other individual person, hast¬ ened the downfall of the Persian monarchy; and somewhat subsequently, their resistance to Demetrius Poliorcetes, in the memorable siege they underwent, secured them the highest credit, and the admiration of their conqueror. Indeed, they were in such esteem among their neighbours, that (so Polybius states) when their city had been almost destroyed by an earth¬ quake, the rulers of Sicily, Asia Minor, Syria, and Egypt vied with each other in the liberality of the supplies and presents they sent to repair this calamity. To the Romans their services were of the highest value, indeed, it was mainly due to them, that the naval operations of Livius, the Roman admiral, were successful in the wars against Philip and Antiochus (Liv. xxxi. 14; xxxvii. 9, &c.). But, perhaps, the most interesting matter in connec¬ tion with the island of Rhodes is the history of the researches recently conducted there by Messrs. Biliotti and Salzmann on the site of Camirus, one of the three chief original cities of that island, the combining of which together, about B.C. 408, resulted in the crea¬ tion of the capital city, Rhodes. It was natural, there¬ fore, to expect that any antiquities discovered at these places would be earlier than this date. The ground all round is now covered by a pine forest, in the clearing of which the old necropolis was discovered by a bullock falling into a tomb. In 1853, Mr. Newton obtained many terra-cotta vases of a very archaic type, and other fictile vases from the peasants’ OF ASIA MINOR. 163 houses of the adjacent village of Kalaverda. Some of the pinakes or platters, with geometrical patterns painted in brown on a pale ground, resembled the oldest objects of this class from the tombs of Athens and Melos; the sites, too, of Mycenae and Tiryns are also strewn with similar fragments. 1 Other am¬ phorae and oinochoae, with black figures on a red ground, or red figures on a black, were also met with. 2 Shortly after this, a firman was obtained from Con¬ stantinople, empowering Messrs. Biliotti and Salzmann to make a thorough investigation into this ancient site, the result of which has been the opening of at least 275 tombs. From these tombs many precious works of art in gold, bronze, and glass, with figures in terra-cotta, and calcareous stones, together with vases and alabaster jars, have been procured, some of them probably as old as B.C. 650. The whole may be grouped under the heads : (1) Asiatico-Phcenician, or Archaic Greek; (2) Greek of the best and latest periods; (3) Egyptian, or imitations of Egyptian. The first is the most important, as comprehending most of the gold and silver ornaments, with a few terra-cottas. It has been supposed that the makers of these objects were Phoenicians of Tyre and Sidon ; but, as many of the specimens betray a marked Assyrian character and influence, they are more probably copies, at second hand, of works originally Assyrian. On examining these curious works of art, it will be observed that most of those in gold have been used 1 As has been well shown in Dr. Scliemann’s recent researches. 2 Travels in the Levant, i. p. 235. M 2 164 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS either as necklaces or for attachment to other sub¬ stances, probably leather, consisting, as they do, for the most part, of thin pieces or plaques of metal, averaging from one to two and a half inches in length, with subjects on them worked up, as a rule, from behind, after the fashion now called rcpoussee work. Thus we meet with standing female figures, draped to the feet (which are close together), as on the sculptures from Branchidae, with long and elaborately-dressed hair falling on their shoulders and naked breasts, the arms being raised in a stiff and formal manner, and the hands partially closed. An¬ other figure has large wings, almost like a nimbus, hands crossed, and elbows square; and against the body of this figure, a rudely-executed animal. A third holds in each hand a small lion by the tail, just as on some of the sculptures from Khorsabad. On a fourth the lions are not held, but are springing up against the figure. On another plaque we have nearly the same type,, with this distinction, that the lions stand out in very high relief, and, curiously enough, are in style almost identical with those on a fibula obtained from Cervetri by the late Mr. Blayds. Many instances may be seen of the narsingh , or man-lion type—a compound figure,, with the head, body, and legs of a man, but attached to or behind this body, and, as it were, growing out of it, the body of an animal with hoofs. This monstrous form occurs, also, on a vase from Athens and on As¬ syrian cylinders. There are, also, specimens of winged, man-headed lions, their wings being thrown back so as to cover the whole figure, just as on the Assyrian OF ASIA MINOR. 165 sculptures. In some cases, we find bronze plated with gold, the latter having often been forced asunder by the rust and consequent expansion of the bronze. Besides these objects, were found, also, small glass vessels of a rich purple colour with yellow bands, like those from Caere and other of the oldest cities of Italy, and a coffin, 6 feet 4 inches long, and 2 feet 1 inch wide, made entirely of terra-cotta. There are traces of brown and red paint over the whole of it, and, at one end, lions in red, with floral ornaments, and, at the other, a black .bull between two brown lions. Many large terra-cotta plates were also found, with various subjects; such as the combat between Hector and Menelaus over the body of Euphorbus, with the names of the combatants written over them, a drawing of especial interest, from the archaic type of the superinscribed characters : there were, too, a Gorgon’s head, sirens, and other strange animals, and a sphinx and a bull with his horns drawn in perspective. These plates were probably of local manufacture. But, besides these curious antique monuments, the excavations at Camirus brought to light many objects of very fine work, two of which must be mentioned. One, a small gold vessel of exceeding beauty, about an inch in diameter, at one end of which is a seated Eros or Cupid; on the other, Thetis on a dolphin, with the arrows Vulcan had forged for her son Achilles. The other, a magni¬ ficent amphora, with figures in red on a black ground, the subject being “ the surprise of Thetis by Peleus ” ; in fact, the same as that on one side of the Portland vase; thus confirming, in a most unexpected manner, 166 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS the interpretation originally proposed many years ago by Mr. Millingen. This vase is of the time of Alex¬ ander the Great, and few, if any vases have as yet been found in the Archipelago exhibiting such free and masterly drawing as this one from Camirus. The island of Cyprus, which lay off the southern coast of Asia Minor, was one of the most celebrated of those generally called the Greek Islands, though it had, probably, less claim to this designation, and was moie Oriental than any of the others. It was, as was natural from its position, early settled by the Phoenicians, Herodotus speaking of the inhabitants as. a very mixed race. It is not possible to deter¬ mine which of several of its towns was the most ancient; but, in the early Jewish Scriptures, we read of “ ships of Chittim,” probably those of Citium, one of its chief towns. In later days, Paphos, itself of remote antiquity, became the capital of the island, and the residence, as we learn from the Acts of the Apostles, of the Roman proconsul. As the centre of the worship of Venus, which is noticed so early as Homei, as well as by many later writers, Paphos was greatly visited by strangers, among whom Tacitus mentions, particularly, the Emperor Titus, when on his way to besiege Jerusalem (Hist. ii. 3—4). Her symbol, or idol, was a purely Asiatic type, and con¬ sisted merely of an upright, conical, and unsculp¬ tured stone. The history of the island was a very chequered one, and there were but comparatively short intervals of time when it was really under its own native rulers; more frequently it was held b) one or other of the continental empires near it OF ASIA MINOR. 167 which happened for the time to be the most power¬ ful. Thus it was, usually, in the hands of the Per¬ sians, till the overthrow of that power by Alex¬ ander, when it was secured by the Ptolemies, in whose diadem it w^as the most precious jewel. In the end it was, of course, seized by the Romans, be¬ coming first an Imperial province, and then, by the arrangement of Augustus, directly under the Senate. In later times, it was the seat of a bishopric, one of the most famous of the bishops of Paphos being the celebrated Epiphanius. During the Crusades, Richard Cceur de Lion captured the island and gave it to Guy de Lusignan, king of Jerusalem, whence the title of kings of Cyprus and Jerusalem, adopted, till recent times, by some of the monarchs of Western Europe. In recent times, the Island of Cyprus has proved one of the most abundant sources of precious re¬ mains of antiquity, excavated chiefly by Mr. R. H. Lang and General Palma di Cesnola. The former gentleman has published in the Numismatic Chronicle (vol. xi. New Series, 1870), an account of the silver coins, many of native Cypriote manufacture, he lighted on while digging out an ancient temple at Dali (Idalium), in 1869. The coins were found at two several times, and, from the way in which some of them adhered together, had probably been en¬ closed in a bag, though no traces of it were detected. Mr. Lang believed he could trace from them the existence of the six or seven distinct kingdoms, which we know, from other sources, once existed in this island. The earliest of these coins are, perhaps, as old as the middle of the sixth century B.C. 168 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS The most important results of Mr, Lang’s excava¬ tions in this temple are now in the British Museum, and have been described by him in a paper read before the Royal Society of Literature (see Trans¬ actions, New Series, vol. xi. pt. i. 1875). In this memoir, which has been supplemented with some careful observations by Mr. R. S. Poole, Mr. Lang has given many interesting details of his excavations. His first diggings were in 1868, when his men soon “ came upon (as it were) a mine of statues,” several of them being of colossal proportions, and on two large troughs, in an outer court, perhaps once employed for the ablutions connected with the temple, which was completely “ full of the heads of small statues, which, after being broken from their bodies, had been pitched pell-mell into the troughs.” Near these troughs were three rows of statues; some, too, of the cham¬ bers excavated were also full of statuary—and in a stratum, of charcoal were comminuted fragments of the bones and teeth of several animals; as of bullocks, sheep, camels, and swine. We can only add, here, that the treatment of the beard on some of the heads is remarkably Assyrian; which, indeed, might reason¬ ably have been expected, as the island was long subject to that empire,—and, that, besides coins and sculptures, Mr. Lang procured, also, several Phoeni¬ cian inscriptions, not, however, of very early date, their characters being nearly identical with those on the well-known inscription in the Bodleian Library at Oxford, together with one bilingual inscription in Cypriote and Phoenician writing. The last has proved of great value, in that it enabled the late Dr. Brandis OF ASIA MINOR. 169 ♦ •and Mr. G. Smith to settle many important points in connection with the Cyprian alphabet. Nearly about the same time as Mr. Lang, General di Cesnola, the American consul in Cyprus, was commencing a series of excavations, the latest results ■of which have, in some respects, far surpassed any¬ thing Mr. Lang achieved. M. Cesnola began dig¬ ging, we believe, first about 1867 ; but his first important discoveries were in the spring of 1870, when he found at Golgos the remains of two temples of Venus, nearly on the spot where, some time before, the Count de Vogue had been less fortunate. It was here that M. di Cesnola formed his first collection, now for the most part in the museum of New York. As in the case of Mr. Lang, the statues had all been thrown down and grievously defaced by “ icono¬ clastic ” hands. Among them, however, were many which had been simply hurled from their pedestals, and were, therefore, nearly as fresh as when first made. One great interest in the collection is, that it is almost wholly the product of local artists. Naturally there was in it a large number of statuettes of Venus, of vases, of lamps, and of objects in glass ; the latter, we believe, chiefly from Idalium. It is said that altogether there were nearly 10,000 objects, and that New York secured them for about £1 apiece. We cannot discuss here the question, much mooted at the time, whether or not the collection ought to have been bought by the English Government; but, had it been, we do not know where it could have been adequately exhibited. The British Museum seems to be as full as ever; nor is there any apparent hope of the re- GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS 170 moval of the hideous black sheds between the columns in the front of it, which have now, for these twenty years, defaced any architectural beauty it may be supposed to have. But by far the most remarkable of General di Ces- nola’s discoveries are his most recent ones, the great results of which are now, we believe, on their way to New York, the American Government having had the good sense to supply him with ample means for con¬ tinuing his researches in the best manner. These last, commenced in 1873, have been prosecuted at various ancient sites, such as those of Golgos, Sala- mis, Palseo-Paphos, Soli, and Amathus ; Curium having ultimately proved the most valuable mine of antiquities. Besides two superb sarcophagi he had previously secured, M. Cesnola found at Curium a mosaic pavement, in style, as he calls it, Assyrio- Egyptian, which had already been partly dug through by some former excavator, and beneath this, at a depth of twenty feet, a subterranean passage in the rock leading into three chambers, communi¬ cating the one with the other. In the first of these he came upon a great number of small ornaments, rings, &c., in pure gold; in the second, on a con¬ siderable collection of gilt vases, cups, &c.; and in the third, On innumerable miscellaneous objects, comprising vases of alabaster, candelabra, metal mirrors, daggers, armlets, small statues of animals, &c. The most valuable individual specimens would seem to be a crystal vase and a pan of armillcS in gold, bearing a double Cypriote inscription. What then is the history of this precious trouvaille ? We OF ASIA MINOR. 171 venture to think that General di Cesnola’s idea on the subject is probably the true one,—that it represents the offerings in a temple now destroyed, and hurriedly packed away, possibly when it was attacked by iconoclasts. Some of the bijoux are inscribed with the names of the owners, and probably donors. Like the relics from Cameirus, these Cypriote monuments are of great antiquarian value, as proving the transi¬ tion from Eastern to Greek art. [For further details, see Atti d. Real. Acad. d. Scien. di Torino, vol. x .; and Ceccaldi, Le ultimo Scoperte nell’ isola di Cipro, 1876.] 172 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS CHAPTER V. ST. PAUL. During previous parts of this work we have, from time to time, alluded to the presence of St. Paul at various places we have described ; the interest, how¬ ever, every one feels in the great Apostle of the Gentiles induces us to throw together in one chapter a brief summary of his journeys in Asia Minor; the more so, that to a Christian, studying the history of this portion of Western Asia, St. Paul stands out alone—“none but himself can be his parallel.” St. Paul's missionary labours commenced from the period when the Holy Ghost said, “ Separate me Barnabas and Paul for the work whereunto I have called them ” (Acts xiii. 2); an order, doubtless, given at Antioch in Syria, as they soon after started from Seleucia, the port of Antioch, for Cyprus, the native home of Barnabas. Antioch was then the capital of Northern Syria, and as much, if not more than Jeru¬ salem, the centre of Christian evangelization. Hence, the natural reason why at Antioch men were “ first called Christians.” Seleucia, too, at the mouth of the Orontes, about twenty miles below Antioch, was the “ key of Syria,” and had, recently, obtained from Pompey the title of a “ Free City,” an honour which it long retained. Dr. Yates (long a resident in the neighbourhood), in an interesting memoir on OF ASIA MINOR. I 7S this city (in the Museum of Classical Antiquities), mentions that the names of the piers at the mouth of its harbour still preserve a record of St. Paul’s voyage, the southern one being called after him, and the northern after Barnabas. Structures so vast as these may easily have remained to the present day, for Pococke states that some of the stones “ are twenty feet long by five deep and six wide, and fastened together by iron cramps.” The voyage from Seleucia to Cyprus is, generally, short and easy. The first place they made in the island was Salamis, 1 whence they proceeded right across it to Paphos, the residence of the Roman governor, Sergius Paulus, “ a prudent man.” Here we have the remarkable story of Elymas the sorcerer, and of the conversion of the governor on witnessing the miracle by the hand of St. Paul. Cyprus ^vas at that time, as may be gathered from Dio Cassius, under the direct govern¬ ment of the Emperor of Rome, together with Syria and Cilicia; but, a little later, this historian adds that Augustus restored it to the Senate. St. Luke’s title, therefore, of proconsul is correct, as that invariably given to the rulers of the provinces belonging to the Senate. A Cyprian inscription in Boeckh confirms this view. The occurrence of a person called a 1 Salamis was on the east side of the island, nearly opposite to Syria ; and, in early times, the capital of the island. It was destroyed by the Romans, but rebuilt with the name of Con- stantia. It was a little to the north of Famagousta, the name of which, curiously enough, is not of Latin origin, as might be supposed, but a lineal descendant of the original Assyrian Am- mochosta. 174 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS “ sorcerer ” at the court of the Roman governor is quite in accordance with the manners of the times. Thus, Juvenal sarcastically speaks of the “ Orontes flowing into the Tiber.” 1 It has been often thought that, from the miracle over Elymas, dates the change of the name of the apostle from Saul to Paul, and certain it is that, subsequently to the words “ Then Saul (who is also called Paul) ” (Acts xiii. 9), the first name does not occur again; moreover, in his fourteen Epistles the apostle invariably calls himself Paul. So happened it in earlier days, when Abram was changed into Abraham. It has been further supposed that, as Barnabas was a native of Cyprus, the apostles were induced to visit that island first; but, for their crossing to Attalia in Pamphylia, in preference to any other port, no reason can be assigned, though we may con¬ jecture that they acted on information obtained in Cyprus. The communication was no doubt easy and probably constant. Attalia, as we have pointed out, was then, as now, a place of some consequence, and almost the only port of southern Asia Minor : thence they proceeded up the steep and rugged defiles of the Pamphylian mountains to Perga, and, ultimately, to Antiochia in Pisidia. The sacred writer records no event on their route thither, except the secession of Mark, which probably took place soon after they had 1 Juven. Sat. iii. 60 ; ib. vi. 584, 589. Horat. Od. i. xi. ; Sat. ii. 1; and Juven. iii. 13, and vi. 542, point out the number of Jewish impostors of the lowest kind with whom Rome was then infested: Juvenal, vi. 553, indicates the influence the so-called Chaldean astrologers possessed there. OF ASIA MINOR. *75 landed; nor has he even given the reason that in¬ fluenced Mark ; but this may have been as Matthew Henry has suggested : “ Either he (Mark) did not like the work, or he wanted to go and see his mother.” St. Paul, we know, felt acutely, what he might fairly have considered as little short of a de¬ sertion ; indeed, this secession led, as we shall see hereafter, to the separation between himself and Barnabas on the eve of his second missionary journey. Whatever Mark’s reasons, certain it is he did de¬ part, and that St. Paul pushed on with characteristic bravery through a country the nature of which we have described when speaking of Cremna, Saga- lassus, and of the probable position of Perge; and which may be comprehended, in all its fulness, by those who have time to study the valuable re¬ searches of Leake and Hamilton, Spratt and Forbes, Arundell and Sir Charles Fellows. It has been reasonably conjectured that, St. Paul travelling, as he probably did a little before the full heat of the summer had commenced, attached his small party to some large group or caravan travelling inwards and northwards in the same direction. Many travellers, and especially Sir Charles Fellows, have pointed out the annual custom prevailing among the dwellers along the southern shores of Asia Minor, of leaving their homes at the beginning of the hot weather, and of migrating with their cattle and household property to the cooler valleys of the mountains. With regard to Antioch in Pisidia, we have already shown that Mr. Arundell was the first to point out that some ruins, now called Yalobatch, can scarcely 176 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS be any other than those of this Antioch. We need not, therefore, dwell any longer on this point, simply adding, that, from its great commercial importance, St. Paul must have found there many resident Jews, while we know that there was at least one synagogue.. On arriving at Antioch, the narrative in the Bible goes on to say that the Apostles “went into the synagogue on the Sabbath-day, and sat down ” ; then, after the reading the Law, as was and still is, the usual custom, the rulers of the synagogue desired them to speak, and St. Paul gave one of his most character¬ istic addresses, being, at first, well received by his own countrymen, and, especially so, by those persons who, having given up idol-worship, were usually known as proselytes. He was, therefore, invited to^ preach on the following Sabbath-day, the intervening, week having been, no doubt, well employed in con¬ stant meetings between St. Paul and these proselytes, and in earnest addresses and exhortations. Hence, we are told that, on this second occasion, “ came almost the whole city together to hear the word of God.” But this was more than the Jews could en¬ dure : so they stirred up the “ chief men of the city,” and the Apostles were soon after (we are not told how soon) “expelled out of their coasts,” that is, ordered to go beyond the limits of the Roman colony of Antioch; though, as they returned to it again, shortly afterwards, it is likely that no formal decree of banishment was promulgated against them. On this “ they shook off the dust of their feet against them.” 1 1 The action used by the Apostles was, it will be remembered. OF ASIA MINOR. 177 St. Paul’s speech, on the second Sabbath, is worthy of note as that in which he first definitely stated the object of his mission; for, when thus attacked by his own countrymen, he turned upon them with the words, “ It was necessary that the word of God should first have been spoken to you; but, seeing ye put it from you and judge yourselves unworthy of everlasting life, we turn to the Gentiles ” (Acts xiii. 46). Strabo (vii. 3) has pointed out that “ feminine influence ” was a re¬ markable characteristic of the manners of Western Asia in his day, and of this we find the Jews availing them¬ selves, on this occasion. Leaving Antioch, then, the Apostles turned nearly south-east to Iconium, which, as we have already stated, was, in those days, the chief town of the sub-district of Lycaonia. The treatment the Apostles received at Iconium was not very different from that they had experienced at Antioch. Here, as there, “the unbelieving Jews stirred up the Gentiles,” but were not, for some time, successful in their designs, as the Apostles were able to abide there a. long time, “ speaking boldly in the Lord.” In fact, as at Ephesus, “ the multitude of the city was divided, and part held with the Jews, and part with the Apostles ” (xiv. 4). In the end, however, the Jews prevailed: so the Apostles had to save themselves from being stoned, by flight “ unto Lystra and Derbe, in obedience to the direct words of our Lord : “ W hosoever,” said He, “shall not receive you nor hear you, when ye depart thence, shake oil the dust under your feet as a testimony against them” (Matt. x. 14; Markvi. 11 ; Luke ix. 5). It was, in fact, .a symbolical act, implying that the city was regarded as profane. It may be presumed that the “ devout and honourable women ” '(Acts xiii. 50) were proselytes. N 178 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS cities of Lycaonia, and unto the region that lieth round about ” (ver. 6), “ and there/’ it is added, “ they preached the Gospel.” We have, already, shown that there is some doubt as to the position of these two towns, but that Mr. Falkener has probably found Lystra on the side of a mountain called Karadagh, at a place called by the Turks Bin-bir-Kalessi, or, the Thousand Churches. So, too, the site of Derbe has, certainly, not been yet made out completely; but, from the similarity of name, it may be at Divle, as suggested by Hamilton. The narrative of what took place at Lystra is very interesting. At first, we may presume that St. Paul preached to any chance groups that collected around him : after some time, however, he saw a poor cripple “ who had never walked,” and “ perceiving that he had faith to be healed,” at once cured him, saying to him with a loud voice, “ Stand upright on thy feet.” Need we wonder that the astonishment of the people vented itself in the natural exclamation that “ the gods had come to us in the likeness of men.” The narrative implies the existence, before the walls of the city, of a temple of Jupiter (Acts xiv. 13), some traces of which may, perhaps, still remain, and, if so, will serve, hereafter, for the identification of the site. Messrs. Conybeare and Howson have pointed out that the beautiful legend of the visit of Jupiter and Mercury to the earth, in Ovid’s story of Baucis and Philemon, belongs to this part of Asia Minor : the people of Lystra would, therefore, have been pre¬ pared to recognize in Barnabas and Paul the Jupiter OF ASIA MINOR. 179 and Mercury of their own fables. What was the “ s P eech of Lycaonia ” we have no means of telling, no undoubted words of this dialect having, so far as we are aware, been preserved. But the Lycaonians, though, at first, so readily convinced of the divinity of the Apostles, soon showed themselves as fickle as the “ foolish Galatians.” St. Luke adding, “ and there came thither certain Jews from Antioch and Iconium and persuaded the people, and having stoned Paul, drew him out of the city,' supposing that he was dead,” so little lasting was the impression produced, even by the cure of one born a cripple. It is, doubtless, to this attack upon him that St. Paul, subsequently, alludes in the words, “ Once was I stoned” (2 Cor. xi. 25). That he was not killed, like St. Stephen, as Barnabas and his friends feared and the Jews hoped, is a miracle in itself. Any how, he recovered at once as “ he rose up and came into the city,” and departed next day “ with Barnabas to Derbe.” It was at Lystra that St. Paul made the acquaintance of Timotheus (or Timothy) his future constant and steadfast companion. With Derbe ends all that has been recorded of St. Paul’s First journey. On the return, however, of Paul and Barnabas, we learn that they fearlessly visited again all the places where they had previously preached, • confirming the souls of the disciples, and exhorting them to continue in the faith.” At the same time too they ordained “ elders in every church,” praying Wlt h fasting, and commending “ them to the Lord on whom they believed.” The course of the Second missionary journey of N 2 l8o GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS St. Paul, most of which falls within the limits of this volume, was probably determined on when the Coun¬ cil of the Apostles at Jerusalem sent letters “unto the brethren which are of the Gentiles in Antioch, in Syria, and in Cilicia ” (xv. 23) : it was manifestly, also, St. Paul’s own desire, for he says, “ Let us go again and visit our brethren in every city, where we ha\e announced the word of the Lord, and see how they do.” It was, on the proposal of this second journey, that the famous dispute took place between St. Paul and Barnabas, the former refusing to take with him Barnabas’s kinsman Mark, because he had turned back before. For this journey (at Attalia), theie- fore, “ Paul chose Silas, and departed, being recom¬ mended by the brethren unto the grace of God ; and he went through Syria and Cilicia confirming the Churches ” (ver. 40). We cannot discuss here the cir¬ cumstances of this quarrel between the two “servants of the Lord,” but one good result from it was, clearly, a far wider preaching of the Gospel than might otherwise have occurred ; as, by this separation, two distinct streams of missionary labour were provided instead of one; Barnabas taking the insular, while St. Paul took the continental line. We do not know which way St. Paul went on leaving Antioch, but it is most likely he passed into Cilicia by the “ Syrian Gates,” now called the pass of Beilan, the character of which may be fully learnt from Mr. Ainsworth and other travellers. For some unknown reason, Sacred history does not give the name of a single place visited during this confirmatory tour, till the Apostles reached Derbe and Lystra; though we may feel sure, especially as the “ Gentiles of Cilicia ” OF ASIA MINOR. l8 E are mentioned in the letter of the Apostles, that St. Paul did not fail to visit his native town, Tarsus, the “no mean city” of his address to the Roman governor. At Tarsus, if anywhere in Cilicia, Christians would be surely found who would be glad of the Apostle’s “ confirming ” words. From Tarsus, St. Paul must have passed from S.E. to N.W., through the great mountain barrier which separates the central table-land of Asia Minor from the plain country in which Tarsus was situated. There are several passes ; the nearest to Tarsus and most direct, being that of the “Cili- cian Gates,” a remarkable cleft, about eighty miles in length. Ascending, probably, by this pass, St. Paul would reach the plains of Lycaonia, at an altitude of about 4,000 feet above the sea, in four or five days. At Lystra (probably) he met' again the young disciple Timotheus, “ who was well reported of at Lystra and Iconium,” and who, at St. Paul’s request, at once joined him : thence, “ as they went through the cities they delivered them the decrees for to keep that were ordained by the Apostles and Elders that were at Jerusalem ; and so were the churches established in the faith, and increased in number daily.” We are not told that, on this occasion, St. Paul met with any serious opposition. The brevity of the account of this journey is most disappointing, as we do not know whether St. Paul visited even Antioch in Pisidia: all we learn is that he was ordered to “go through Phrygia and the region of Galatia,” altogether new ground, and representing dis¬ tricts that could not have been evangelized before. Yet even here the names of no towns are recorded till he gets to Mysia: on the other hand, he was not permitted 182 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS to preach the “ word ” in Asia ; that is, within Roman “ Asia,” nor to enter Bithynia. Most likely, as sug¬ gested by Messrs. Conybeare and Howson, he fol¬ lowed the great Roman lines of communication, and passed by Laodicea, Philomelium, and Synnada. It has been inferred from his use of the plural, “ to the churches of Galatia,” as the heading of his Epistle to that people, that there was no one great church there, as at Ephesus or Corinth; but this seems to us refining too much. We may, however, suppose that no special miracles marked this journey, or, at all events, none which St. Luke thought it necessary to notice. We learn from St. Paul himself (Galat. iv. 13) that it was owing to bodily sickness that he preached to the Galatians in the first instance, it may be, as has been suggested, on his way to Pontus, from which distant province we know that some Jewish proselytes had come to Jerusalem, and were present on the day of Pentecost (Acts ii. n) : moreover, it is certain, from his Epistle to the Galatians, that he had been well received by this inconstant people, a large and mixed multitude having embraced Christianity.' As, in so many other instances, no clue is given us as to the further route actually taken by the Apostles to Troas, but, by the Divine prohibition to them of preaching in “Asia,” we may conjecture that the time was not ripe for spreading the Gospel among the great cities of Ephesus, Smyrna, or Pergamus. It will be noticed that the Apostles are not forbidden to enter Asia, as was the case with Bithynia, but only not to preach there. Indeed, they could not, easily, have got to Troas without passing through “ Asia.” The first seaport St. Paul reached must have been OF ASIA MINOR. 183 Adramyttium, which is not, however, noticed here by name, though it is subsequently, when on the voyage to Rome. Of this place we have, already, given some account: and hence, it would seem, that the Apostle passed onwards to Assos and Alexandria Troas, where the remarkable vision appeared to him which is thus described :— “And a vision appeared to Paul in the night. There stood a man of Macedonia and prayed him, saying, Come over into Macedonia, and help us. And, after he had seen the vision, immediately we endeavoured to go into Macedonia, assuredly gather¬ ing that the Lord had called us for to preach the Gospel unto them. Therefore, loosing from Troas we came with a straight course to Samothrace . . (Acts xvi. 9, 10, 11). Compelled as we are here to compress as much as possible what must be said, we reluctantly desist from following St. Paul to Europe. We need, therefore, only state that, after two years St. Paul returned to Antioch in Syria and Jerusalem, passing, on his way, sufficient time at Ephesus, so that “ he himself entered into the synagogue, and reasoned with the Jews ” (xviii. 19), promising, at the request of the congregation, that he would return to Ephesus, “if God will.” Having “saluted the Church ” (probably of Jerusalem) he returned to Antioch, and thence “ departed and went over all the country of Galatia and Phrygia in order, strength¬ ening all the disciples,” 1 arriving, ultimately, at 1 The brief statement in the Acts does not tell us anything 01 the course St. Paul took on this occasion ; but as he went “ over all the country of Galatia and Phrygia in order,” we can have no 184 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS Ephesus, where he found Apollos, “ an eloquent man, and mighty in the Scriptures ” (xviii. 24). The visit of St. Paul to Ephesus was the period when it pleased God to do for the later disciples what had been previously done, twelve or thirteen years before, on the day of Pentecost: “ the Holy Ghost came on them, and they spake with tongues, and prophesied.” In the present instance, it is enough to refer to the words in the narrative as given in the Acts xix. 2 : “ He ” (St. Paul) “ said unto them, Have ye received the Holy Ghost since ye be¬ lieved ? And they said unto him, We have not so much as heard whether there be any Holy Ghost,” &c.“ When they heard this, they were baptized in the name of the Lord Jesus; and when Paul laid his hands upon them, the Holy Ghost came on them, and they spake with tongues, and prophesied.” At Ephesus St. Paul dwelt more than two years, diligently preaching the Gospel, and “ disputing daily in the school of one Tyrannus.” No opposition ap¬ pears to have arisen for some time; indeed, for three months, he was allowed the use of even the synagogue; but, in the end, the idol-brokers felt their trade was in jeopardy, and, especially, men, who, like Deme¬ trius, the silversmith, making the “ silver shrines for Diana, brought no small gain unto the craftsmen.” As at Corinth, St Paul at Ephesus was brought, face to face, with Asiatic superstition, withstanding even magic arts, as Moses did, Jannes, and Jambres, and, also, “ exorcists.” What this “ magic ” really doubt that his visitation of the churches was complete, and that he went to all or most of the places noticed in the previous- journeys. OF ASIA MINOR. 185 was has been much debated. Anyhow, the Talmud tells us that a “knowledge of magic” was required as a necessary qualification for a seat in the Sanhediin, so that the councillor might be able to try those ac¬ cused of such practices, though some of these need not, necessarily, have been of evil intention : it is clear, however, from the case of Sceva (xix. 14), that many of the “ exorcists ” made a bad use of any supe¬ rior knowledge they possessed or pretended to have. St. Paul’s success, however, in putting down this species of knavery, was so complete, that a large number of the exorcists submitted to him, and burnt their books, which were valued at a very high price. The “ town-clerk ” was, doubtless, as we have re¬ marked before, a Roman officer, and, as the keeper of the public records, one of the most important personages in the town. His language in putting down the 'emeute in the theatre clearly shows this ; but, as he evidently refers to others of greater power than himself, we hardly think, as some have done, that he was himself one of the “ Asiarchs, or, as our translation has it, “ chiefs of Asia.” His language shows that he was not unfriendly to St. Paul (though not necessarily that he was, himself, a Christian), and, further, that he well knew how to deal with a mul¬ titude, “ the more part of whom knew not wherefoie they were come together.” We have now brought nearly to an end the short outline we felt it necessary to give of St. Paul’s jour¬ neying in Asia Minor. It is probable that, soon after the disturbance in the theatre, he left for Macedonia, so that the rest of his connection with Asia Minor or with the Greek islands may be summed up in a 186 GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS, ETC. few words. After some time passed in Macedonia, with a possible journey through Illyricum and Western Greece, which occupied him for three months (xx. 3), St. Paul returned to the north, and, passing by Philippi and Neapolis, crossed the ^Egaean to Alex¬ andria Troas. This second visit to Troas is chiefly notable for the story of the boy Eutychus, who, overcome with sleep when St. Paul continued his speech until midnight, fell to the ground and was killed. It will be observed, that, in the miracle of his restoration to life, St. Paul implied the use of the very words of our Saviour to the young maiden : “ She is not dead, but sleepeth.” Thence he pro¬ ceeded alone on foot twenty miles to Assos, through a district then, as now, richly wooded, but with a good Roman road, long since in utter decay. It was a lonely walk the great Apostle pursued then ; but soli¬ tude is sometimes required to give greater strength. From Assos St. Paul took ship to Mytilene, proceed¬ ing onwards to Chios, Samos, Trogyllium, and Miletus. At this last place, he summoned the elders from Ephe¬ sus, and bade a solemn farewell to the Christians of Asia, among whom he had laboured so long and so efficiently; and passing thence by Coos and Rhodes to Patara, finally entered a ship there, and sailed to Phoenicia (xxi. 1). At Trogyllium the Admiralty chart shows a harbour that still bears the name of St. Paul’s Port. So far as we know, with the exception of touch¬ ing at Cnidus on his last voyage to Rome, St. Paul had no further connection with Asia Minor. INDEX. Abydus, Xerxes builds his bridge near, 5. Ancyra, temple and inscription of Augustus, 144-7* Antioch of Pisidia, site of, suggested by Mr. Arun- dell, proved by Mr. Hamil¬ ton, 111-4. Apamea, and the legend of the ark resting there, 133-5* Ai'gseus, Mt., near Caesarea, as¬ cended for the first time by Mr. Hamilton, 151. Asia Minor, size of, 1 ; less productive than of old, 2; chief islands of, noticed here, Lesbos, Samos, Chios, Rho- dus, and Cyprus, 156-171. Aspendus, beauty of theatre at, 102. Assus, importance of the monu¬ ments found there, 7. Attali, gallant character of the family of, 31, 32. Attalia (now Ad alia), important port of, 99, 100. Beaufort, Capt., discovery by of the granary of Trajan at Myra, 98, Branchidse, famous oracle and temple at, 48, 49 ; important excavations at by Mr. New¬ ton, 49-55* Chios, through all history, an¬ cient and modern, cruelly treated by its neighbours, 159, 160. Cnidus, important excavations at by Mr. Newton, 73-80. Colossae, satisfactorily identified by Mr. Hamilton, 142-3. Cyprus, recent valuable re- seacrhes in by Mr. Lang and General Palma di Cesnola, 166-171. Cyzicus, position of, 3. Ephesus, one of the most im¬ portant of the cities of W Asia, 37 ; discovery of its famous temple of Diana by Mr. Wood, 42-45. Falkener, Mr., interesting notice of Mt. Karadagh and of Bir-bir-Kalisseh, the 1,001 churches, 130. Gomperz, Prof., interpretation by of some inscriptions found by Dr. Schliemann, 27, 28. Hierapolis, remarkable petri¬ factions near, 137, 139. Hissarlik, the true site of an¬ cient Troy, 10; as also of new Troy, 29. Iconium, its history, ancie and mediaeval, 127-8. Isaura, Mr. Hamilton identi¬ fies the site of, 125-6. Lampsacus, for some time the home of Themistocles, 5. i8S INDEX. Laodicea (ad Lycum), the chief town of Roman Proconsular Asia, 139-141. Lesbos, general character of its citizens, 156-7. Lystra and Derbe, difficulties in their identification, 129-130. Magnesia (the Lydian), le¬ gends of Tantalus and Niobe connected with, 56, 57. Mausoleum, or tomb of Mau- solus, excavations at, by Mr. Newton, 62-70. Miletus, great importance of its position as a port, and the parent of more colonies than any other place in antiquity, 45 * 7 - Myra, remarkable beauty of its rock-cut tombs at, 97-8. Pal/E-scepsis, the MSS. of Aristotle discovered there, 9. Patara, celebrated oracle at, 96. Paul, St., missionary labours of, in Asia Minor, 172-186. Philadelphia, famous resistance of, to the Turks in a.d. 1390, 58 . Philomelium, the best opium grown round it, 136 (and n.). Phrygians, the ethnological rela¬ tions of, 131-3. Physcus (now Marraorice), Lord Nelson anchors his ships there, 80. Pullan, Mr., discovery by, of a colossal lion near Cnidus, 77-80. Rhodus, remarkable excava¬ tions in, at Camirus, by Messrs. Biliotti and Saltz- mann, 162-5. Sagalassus, grand natural po¬ sition of, 107. Samos, history of, 157-159. Sardes, importanc e of in ancien history, 59-61. Sarkophagi, so named from the stone found at Assus, 8. Schliemann, Dr., remarkable early career of, 12-14; ex¬ cavations by, at Troy, 14- 24 ; his reasons for believing Hissarlik the site of Troy, 16 (n.). Selge, position of, not quite certain, 108, 109. Selinus (in Cilicia), the death- place of the Emperor Tra- janus, 117. Sinope, the royal residence of the kings of Pontus, 153, 154- Smyrna, long endurance of, as a great port, 34, 35. Soli (in Cilicia) and solecisms, 121 (n.). Stratonicea, remarkable inscrip¬ tion of Diocletian thence, 81, 82. Tarsus, abundant interesting notices of, 113-6. Telmessus, famous for its au¬ gurs, 95. Termessus, remarkable position of, 104. Troy, various theories as to its true position, 11. Xanthus, in Lycia, curious story of, 86-89; discoveries at, by Sir Charles Fellows, 89 - 95 * WYMAN AND SONS, PRINTERS, GREAT QUEEN ST., LINCOI.n’S'INN FIFIDS. Jfoxitttr for promoting Christian fuurtofoiKje. NON-CHRISTIAN RELIGIOUS SYSTEMS. Fcap. 8 vo., Cloth boards, price 2 s. 6 d. each, with Map . BUDDHISM: Being a Sketch of the Life and Teachings of Ga utama, the Buddha. By T. W. Rhys Davids, of the Middle Temple. HINDUISM. By Monier Williams, M.A., D.C.L., &c. ISLAM AND ITS FOUNDER. By J. W. H. Stobart, B.A., Principal, La Martiniere College, Lucknow. THE HEATHEN WORLD AND ST. PAUL Fcap. 8 vo.. Cloth boards, price 2s. each, with Map. ST. PAUL IN DAMASCUS AND ARABIA. By the Rev. George Rawlinson, M.A., Canon of Canterbury, Camden Professor of Ancient History, Oxford. ST. PAUL IN GREECE. By the Rev. G. S. Davies, M.A., Charterhouse, Godaiming. ST. PAUL AT ROME. By the Very Rev. Charles Merivale, D.D., D.C.L., Dean of Ely. ST. PAUL IN ASIA MINOR, AND AT THE SYRIAN ANTIOCH. By the Rev. E. H. Plumptre, D.D., Prebendary of St. Paul’s, Vicar of Bickley, Kent, and Professor of New Testament Exegesis in King’s College, London. REGENT PUBLICATIONS Africa Unveiled. By the Rev. H. Rowley. With Map, and Eight full-page Illustrations on toned paper. Crown 8 vo. ....... Cloth Boards 5 0 Bible Places ; or, the Topography of the Holy Land : a Succinct Account of all the Places, Rivers, and Mountains of the Land of Israel mentioned in the Bible, so far as they have been identified. Together with their Modern Names and Historical References. By the Rev.Canon Tristram. A new a?id revised Edition , Crown 8 vo., with Map, numerous Wood-cuts . Cloth Boards 4 o China : The Land and the People of. A short Account of the Geography, History, Religion, Social Life, Arts, Industries, and Government of China and its People. By J. Thomson, Esq., F.R.G.S., Author of “ Illustrations of China and its People,” &c. With Map, and Twelve full-page Illustrations on toned paper. Crown 8vo. Cloth Boards 5 o Christians under the Crescent. By the Rev. E. L. Cutts, B.A., Hon. D.D. University of the South, U.S., Author of “ Turning Points of English and General Church History,” &c. With numerous Illustrations. Post 8vo. Cloth Boards 5 o India : The History of, from the Earliest Times to the Present Day. By L. J. Trotter, Author of “Studies in Biography.” Post 8vo. With a Map and 23 Engravings..... Cloth Boards 10 6 Israel : The Land of. A Journal of Travels in Palestine, undertaken with Special Reference to its Physical Character. Third Edition, revised. By the Rev.Canon Tristram. With numerous Illustrations. Cloth Boards 10 6 Jewish Nation : A History of the. From the Earliest Times to the Present Day. By E. H. Palmer, Esq., M.A., Fellow of St. John’s College, and Lord Almoner’s Professor of Arabic in the University of Cambridge, Author of “ The Desert of the Exodus,” &c. &c. Crown 8vo. With Map and numerous Illustrations . Cloth Boards 5 o REGENT PUBLICATIONS— {continued). Lesser Lights ; or, Some of the Minor Characters of Scripture traced, with a View to Instruction and Example in Daily Life. By the Rev. F. BOURDILLON, M.A., Author of “ Bedside Readings,” &c. Post 8vo.... Cloth Boards 2 Natural History of the Bible, The : being a Review of the Physical Geography, Geology, and Meteorology of the Holy Land, with a description of every Animal and Plant mentioned in Holy Scripture, By the Rev. Canon Tristram. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. With numerous Illustrations. ....Cloth Boards 7 Narrative of a Modern Pilgrimage through Palestine on Horseback, and with Tents. By the Rev. Alfred Charles Smith, M.A., Christ Church, Oxford; Rector of Yatesbury, Wilts, Author of The Attractions of the Nile,” &c. &c. Crown 8vo. With numerous Illustrations and Four Coloured Plates. Cloth Boards 5 Scenes in the East. — Containing Twelve Coloured Photographic Views of Places mentioned in the Bible. By the Rev. Canon Tristram, Author of “ The Land of Israel,” &c. 4 to. Cloth Boards 7 Scripture Manners and Customs : being an Account of the Domestic Habits, Arts, &c., of Eastern Nations, mentioned in Holy Scripture. Sixteenth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. With numerous Wood-cuts.;. Cloth Boards 4 Sinai and Jerusalem ; or, Scenes from Bible Lands, consisting of Coloured Photographic Views of Places mentioned in the Bible, including a Panoramic View of Jerusalem. With Descriptive Letterpress by the Rev. r. W. Holland, M.A., Honorary Secretary to the Palestine Exploration Fund ............... Cloth, Bevelled Boards, gilt edges 7 St. Paul : The Cities Visited by. By the Rev. Professor Stanley Leathes, M.A., King’s _ Colle-e, London. Fcap. 8vo. With Nine Wood-cuts. Limp Ccoth 1 Turning Points of English Church History. By the Rev. Edward L. Cutts, B.A., Author of “ Some Chief Truths of Religion,” “ St. Cedd’s Cross,” &c. Crown .. Cloth Boards 3 Turning Points of General Church History. By the Rev. E. L. Cutts, B.A., Author of “ Pastoral Counsels,” &c. Crown 8vo. Cloth Boards 5 ANCIENT HISTORY FROM THE MONUMENTS. Fcap. Svo., Cloth boards , price 2 s. each, with Illustrations. ASSYRIA, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE FALL OF NINEVEH. By the late George Smith, Esq., of the Department of Oriental Antiquities, British Museum. BABYLONIA, THE HISTORY OF. By the late George Smith, Esq. Edited by the Rev. A. H. Sayce, Assistant Professor of Comparative Philo* logy, Oxford. EGYPT, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO B.C. 300. By S. Birch, LL.D., &c. GREEK CITIES AND ISLANDS OF ASIA MINOR. By W. S. W. Vaux, M.A., F.R.S. PERSIA, FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD TO THE ARAB CONQUEST. By W. S. W. Vaux, M.A., F.R.S. Also in Preparation. SINAI, FROM THE FOURTH EGYPTIAN DYNASTY TO THE PRESENT DAY. By H. S. Palmer, Major, Royal Engineers, F.R.A.S. DEPOSITORIES : 77, Great Queen Street, Lincoln’s-Inn Fields, W.C. ; 4, Royal Exchange, E.C. ; and 48, Piccadilly, W. : London. DS155 .V38 Ancient history from the monuments: Princeton Theological Seminary-Speer Library 1 1 1012 00001 2338