ily V ^4 MEMOKIALS OF THE HON. ION KEITH-FALCONER, M.A. MEMORIALS OF THE HON. ION KEITH-FALCONER, M.A., LATE LOBD ALMONER's PROFESSOR OF ARABIC IN THE UNIVERSITY OP CAMBRIDGE, AND MISSIONARY TO THE MOHAMMEDANS OF SOUTHERN ARABIA. BY THEX REV. ROBERT SINKER, D.D. LIBRARIAX OF TRINITY COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE ; CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ROYAL BOHEMIAN SOCIETY OF SCIENCES. WITH PORTRAIT AND MAP. "Artva ?V \ioi K^pcrj, ravra ijyijfiai cia rov Xpiarov ^>j/u(ai'. — PhiL. iii. SIXTH EDITION. CAMBRIDGE : DEIGHTON, BELL AND CO LONDON : GEORGE BELL AND SONS. 1890. CHISWICK PKESS :— C. WHITTINGHAM AND CO., TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE. PREFACE. A CAEEER of exceptional promise was early closed in the death of Ion Keith-Falconer. The beauty of his character, his ardent missionary zeal, his great learning, form a combination rarely equalled ; and the feeling was very generally expressed last summer, especially in Scotland, that an attempt should be made to portray the many- sidedness and goodness of that life. It was represented to his family that it was a duty " to make the story of such a life the possession and the stimulus of the Church and the country." When I was honoured with the request to write the Memoir of my late dear friend, I could but feel it was too sacred a trust to be refused. How noble a life his was, how unselfish, how worthy to be loved, those who knew him know well ; how hard it is adequately to set forth, on the one hand, its harmonious beauty, on the other, the rich variety of its aspects, I am very fully conscious. Still even the simple record of his life is its truest encomium. Its essence may be summed up in St. Paul's words, " I count all things but loss for Christ." The numerous letters with which I was entrusted by the members of his family and others, to whom my grate- ful thanks are due, give a fulness to the narrative which it must otherwise have lacked. Many will learn, perhaps to their surprise, how many were the interests of one whom they knew or heard of in one aspect only. My especial thanks must be given to my friend of many vi Preface. years, the Rev. H. C. G. Moule, M.A., Principal of Eidley Hall, Cambridge, who has aided me with his counsel and help at every stage of my work, and to whom I owe many valuable suggestions, while the book has been passing through the press : and to Dr. George Smith, C.I.E., Secretary for Foreign Missions in the Free Church of Scotland, who has kindly allowed me to appeal to him constantly for information as to the details of the South Arabian Mission. In conclusion, I humbly commit this book to God's blessing. May He, Who has called His servant home to Himself, grant that some hearts may be quickened into a fuller love towards Him, a deeper zeal, by the record of a life devoted to His service. R. S. Trinity College, Cambridge, February 2, 1888. NOTE TO THE SIXTH EDITION. In the second and subsequent editions, a very few details have been added to the account of the Shaikh Othman Mission. No change calling for any remark has been other- wise made. I cannot send forth this new edition without expressing my thankfulness for the welcome accorded to the earlier editions of this book. That welcome both marks a wide- spread appreciation of the noble character I have sought to portray, and is a symptom of the remarkable growth of interest in the cause of Foreign Missions, which the last few years have witnessed in our country. The portrait in the present edition is a reproduction of a photograph taken by Mr. Vernon Heath. March 6, 1890. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. PAGE Introduction . . 1 CHAPTER II. Home, Childhood, School 7 CHAPTER III. Student Life at Cambridge 31 CHAPTER IV. Evangelistic Work: Barnwell and Mile-End . . 62 CHAPTER V. Leipzig 88 CHAPTER VI. AssiouT: Home 105 CHAPTER VII. Cambridge : Marriage : Kalilah 120 CHAPTER VIII. Aden 139 via Contents, CHAPTER IX. Professorship of Arabic 167 CHAPTER X. Shaikh Othman 194 CHAPTER XL Conclusion 229 ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait of Professor Keith-Falconer . . . Frontispiece Map of the Country near Aden . . . To face page 142 MEMORIALS OF THE HON. ION KEITH-FALCONER, M.A. CHAPTEE I. INTRODUCTION. " The rest of Scotland's war-array With Edward Bruce to westward lay, Where Bannock, with his broken bank And deep ravine, protects their tiank. Behind them, screened by sheltering wood. The gallant Keith, Lord Marshal, stood : His men at arms bear mace and lance, And plumes that Avave, and helms that glance." Scott, Lord of the Isles. In the reign of Malcolm 11. , King of Scotland, a battle was fought at Barry in Forfarshire, in the year of our Lord 1010, with an army of Danish invaders, who were signally defeated. Their leader was slain by a young Scotch nobleman, Eobert Keith, as the name would now be spelt, who for his valour was created by the king Hereditary G-reat Marischal of Scotland, and was rewarded with lands, some of which, in East Lothian, still bear the name of Keith. The king is said to have dipped his fingers in the blood of the Danish chief and to have drawn three vertical bars on the shield of his follower ; B 2 Introduction. and these enter into the family arms to this day. The king at the same time pronounced the words Veritas vincit, — " Truth overcometh," afterwards the motto of the Marischals.^ From this warrior sprang a family memorable in the annals of Scotland. His descendant, Sir Eobert Keith, was one of the supporters of Wallace, and after- wards joined the standard of King Eobert Bruce. He aided largely in gaining the battle of Inverurie, A.D. 1308 ; which led to his receiving a grant of lands in Aberdeenshire, and henceforward it was with this part of Scotland that the family was specially associated. Sir Eobert commanded the Scotch cavalry at the battle of Bannockburn, a.d. 1314, and his attack on the English archers in flank had an important effect on the fortunes of the day. About the year 1380, Sir William Keith built Dun- nottar Castle near Stonehaven in Kincardineshire. In the course of building this, long the chief seat of the family, he was excommunicated for encroaching, as was alleged, on consecrated ground. The grandson of this Sir William was in 1458 created Earl Marischal by James II. At Flodden, a.d. 1513, the two eldest sons of the house fell in their father's lifetime : and William, the fourth earl, a staunch supporter of the Eeformation in Scotland, fought at the battle of Pinkie, a.d. 1547. More generally known, however, than any of these is G-eorge, the fifth earl. In his youth, he was sent abroad with his brother for his education, and studied for some time at Beza's house at G-eneva. He was highly esteemed by James VI., who sent him in 1589 as ambassador to Denmark, to conduct the Princess Anne, his betrothed queen, to Scotland : and subsequently, when James VI. had become King of England, Earl George was appointed, ^ Douglas, Peerage of Scotland, ii. 184. Davidson, Inverurie and the Earldom of the Garioch, pp. 15, 435. Introduction. 3 A.D. 1609, Lord High Commissioner to represent the king in the Parliament of Scotland. Some years before this (1593), he had founded at his own cost a college at Aberdeen, for a Principal and four Professors, which, under the name of Marischal College, long did useful work to the cause of religion and learning ; till in 1860 the University system of Aberdeen was re- modelled, and Marischal College lost its independent exist- ence.^ Carlyle, writing at a time when the College still existed in a separate form, speaks of it as a place " where, for a few, in those stern granite Countries, the Diviner Pursuits are still possible (thank Grod and this Keith) on frugal oatmeal." ^ Earl George died in 1623, having throughout his life taken the warmest interest in the cause of learning.^ The seventh and eighth earls fought for the king in the Civil War, and the former was imprisoned in the Tower of London from 1651 to the Restoration. In the unfortunate rising of 1715, the tenth Earl, Greorge, was seriously implicated ; and an act of attainder having been passed on him, he fled from Scotland, accompanied by his brother James, who was also involved, though only nineteen years of age at the time. The latter, afterwards the famous Marshal Keith, entered successively the Spanish, Russian and Prussian services, became a highly-trusted friend of Frederick the G-reat, and fell at the battle of Hochkirch (1758), where he commanded the right wing. He was buried with all honour at Berlin. Some words of his epitaph may be cited : they are relevant ^ One of the last professors, at the time of this absorption, was the late Prof. Clerk Maxwell of Cambridge. ^ History of Friedrich II. of Prussia, v. 624, ed. 1865. ^ In the Signet Library at Edinburgh, is a rare tract, the lament of Marischal College on the death of its founder, " Lachrymte Academise Marischallanse, sub obitum Msecenatis et Fundatoris sui munificentissimi, nobilissimi et illustrissimi, Georgii Comitis Marischalli, Domini de Keith et Altre." Abredoniae, 1623. 4 Introduction. to other heroes and other warfare, " suorum aciem mente, manu, voce et exemplo, restituebat; pugnans, ut Heroas decet, occubuit."^ Carlyle gives the letter written by Frederick to the surviving elder brother, then and for some years after, governor of Neufchatel, " loved by him almost as one boy loves another." ^ The king begins by saying " If my head were a fountain of tears, it would not suffice for the grief I feel ; " and subscribes himself, " Your old friend till death." ' After this, through the intervention of Pitt, the Earl Marischal was pardoned (1759) and allowed to come back to Scotland, but before long he returned to Prussia, and died in 1778. With him the title of Marischal became extinct. We must now look back to the time of the great Civil War of the seventeenth century, and to an event which in- directly led to the creation of the Earldom of Kintore. In the year 1651, Cromwell's troops were besieging Dunnottar Castle, whither the Regalia of Scotland (the crown, sceptre and sword of state) had been taken for safety after the battle of Dunbar. The castle was of exceptional strength, standing as it did upon a rock protected on one side by a deep ravine, and on the other by the sea. Still great anxiety was felt by the defenders of the castle for the pre- servation of their treasures, on which it was known that the English set an inordinate value. Accordingly, the governor's wife, Mrs. Ogilvie, concerted an ingenious scheme, with her parish minister, Mr. G-rainger, of Kinneff , and his wife. One day the latter lady rode past Dunnottar Castle to Stonehaven, accompanied by her maid, to procure flax for spinning. On her return she obtained leave from the commander of the English forces to visit Mrs. Ogilvie in the Castle, and was followed by the maid with the flax on her back. The maid having been sent away ^ Carlyle, w. s. 373. "" Ibid. « Ibid. 386. Introduction, 5 to talk to her friends, the Eegalia were concealed in the flax by the two ladies. After a while the unconscious maid resumed her burden, and she and her mistress again passed through the English lines, the English general actually helping Mrs. G-rainger to remount her horse. That night the minister and his wife buried the Eegalia under the pulpit of Kinneff Church, and here the treasures lay safely hid till the Eestoration/ In the meantime, to divert suspicion from the true state of the case, a letter was allowed to fall into the hands of the be- siegers, purporting to be from Sir John Keith, the fourth son of the sixth Earl Marischal, which stated that he had reached France in safety with the Eegalia, and would give them to the king. At the Eestoration, Sir John Keith received a grant of the lands of Caskieben, now Keith-Hall, in Aberdeen- shire, and was afterwards (1677) made Earl of Kintore, assuming the appropriate motto Qum amissa salva, — " What were lost are safe." The second earl fought for the old Pretender at the battle of Sheriff muir, but no very serious consequences befell him. His two sons died childless, but his daughter, Lady Catherine, who was married to Lord Falconer of Halkerton, had a son ; and on the death in 1778 of the last Earl Marischal, to whom the estates, though not the title ^ had passed, Lady Catherine's grandson became fifth Earl of Kintore. The great-grandson of this nobleman was the father of the subject of our present sketch. The late Earl of Kintore, the eighth holder of the title, succeeded his father in 1844 at the age of sixteen, married his cousin in 1851, and after a life spent in the faith and fear of Grod, and in the furtherance of every good work * For these details, I am indebted to the interesting account given by Dr. Davidson, op. cit. p. 367. "^ This was in abeyance from 1761-1778. 6 Introduction. "mente, manu, voce et exemplo," passed to his rest in 1880. Many were the schemes for shedding the light of gospel 'truth in the dark places of the earth, which lost in him an earnest and eloquent advocate. Specially had the Free Church of Scotland cause to mourn at his death one of its most loyal and munificent supporters. Of his four sons, two passed through the golden gates before him, and now, in the spring of the present year (1887), Ion Keith-Falconer has rejoined his father and brothers. CHAPTER II. HOME, CHILDHOOD, SCHOOL. *' Whose high endeavours are an inward light That makes the path before him always bright." Wordsworth. The river Don may be said to divide Aberdeenshire into two approximately equal parts, and to separate the High- land half of the county from the more level country to the north and north-east. About twenty miles above the place where it falls into the sea a little north of Aberdeen, and in a north-westerly direction therefrom, stands the small town of Inverurie, within the angle made by the union of the rivers Don and Urie, whence its name. Still closer to the place where the rivers meet, there rises abruptly a mound of considerable size, perhaps of artificial origin and intended for sepulchral or the like purposes, j^erhaps a relic of the glacial period. This is the so-called Bass of In- verurie, on which, in the twelfth century and doubtless earlier, stood the Castle, commanding the fords over the two rivers. It is referred to in one of the so-called prophecies of Thomas of Ercildoune, " the Rhymer," ^ " Dee and Don shall run in one, And Tweed shall run in Tay ; And the bonny water o' Ury Shall bear the Bass away." '■ Davidson, p. 1 ; Thoni, weaver of Inverury, Rhymes and Recol- lections, p. 98. The latter states that the old rhyme is in every one's mouth in the district. 8 Home, Childhood, School. Spite of this, however, the Bass still remains a very pic- turesque object in the rather flat country. The town of Inverurie has a thriving and comfortable look, but can hardly be called picturesque ; and the white granite of its buildings gives to it, as to its great neighbour Aberdeen, a look of decided coldness. Level though the immediate neighbourhood is, hills can be seen in the distance, and six miles away to the north-west rises Ben- na-chie, one of the outlying summits of the G-rampians. It is of a tributary of the Urie, the G-adie, which falls into it a few miles above Inverurie, that the well-known and beautiful Scotch song " Whar Gadie rins " was written.^ I venture to quote the first stanza, " I wish I were whar Gadie rins, 'Marig fragrant heath and yellow Avhins, Or brawling doun the boskie lins, At the back of Ben-na-chie ! Ance mair to hear the wild birds' sang ; To wander birks and braes amang, Wi' frien's an' fav'rites left sae lang At the back of Ben-na-chie. " Of the lands between the Don and Urie, anciently and still known as the Grarioch, the lord, in the latter part of the twelfth century, was the celebrated David, Earl of Hunting- don, the companion of Richard Coeur de Lion in the glories and perils of the second Crusade. A charter is extant of Earl David, of about the date 1202-1206, one of the witnesses to which was Matthew the Falconer, ancestor of the Lords Falconer of Halkerton, and of the later Earls of Kintore.^ These latter became in their time the holders of much of what had been Earl David's land, and their chief seat Keith-Hall stands close to the town and Bass of Inverurie, but on the other side of the Urie. It is built on the site of an older house, already mentioned, Caskieben, some portions of which are perhaps included in the present ^ Thorn, p. 143. Also, with some variation, Davidson, p. 167. ^ Davidson, p. 26. Home, Childhood, School. 9 building. This is largely the creation of the first Earl of Kintore, who was the planter moreover of numerous fine avenues of trees, of which the stately remains still partly surround the house.^ The house itself is of the square massive type of build- ing characteristic of so many Scotch mansions of older date, and in the stern whiteness of its appearance, seems to lack the rich warmth of colour of an English house of equal date. In the well-wooded park surrounding the house, and at no great distance from it, is a small and very picturesque lake, and the line of hills, among which Ben-na-chie is prominent, forms the distant view seen from the park and garden. Such were the surroundings amid which were passed the early years of the subject of this memoir. Ion G-rant Neville Keith-Falconer, the third son of the late Earl of Kintore, was born at Edinburgh, on the 5th of July, 1856. His early years were spent at Keith-Hall, varied by long visits to Brighton and elsewhere, but the annals of childhood are of necessity almost uneventful. His mother speaks of two marked characteristics even of those early days, his intense and as it were innate truthfulness and his unvarying though tfulness for others. The chivalrous, self-sacrificing, warm-hearted man could not possibly have been developed from a different boyhood than this. With tender, earnest care did his Grod-fearing mother instil in his earliest years the simple, unquestioning faith in Christ, which throughout his life seemed, while growing with his growth, never to lose its fresh, deep simplicity. Some interesting reminiscences of this part of Ion's life are furnished by Mrs. Blundell, who when he was between four and five years old, came to Keith -Hall as one of the children's nurses. ^ Davidson, p. 402. 10 Home, Childhood, School. I give the narrative just as it has been communicated to me : the perfect simplicity and life-like character of the details are more than apology. She describes how from the very first she was struck with his extreme unselfishness and consideration for others. He was always eager to give up to his brothers and sisters ; — if anything was to be shared among them, he would say, " Give it to the others first, I will wait." For his elder brother Dudley in particular, there was nothing he would not do or give up ; he delighted in being his slave, his wish was absolute law to him. He brought everything to Dudley for his judgement, and delighted in telling others how much Dudley was superior to himself. If Ion had been anywhere when Dudley could not go, he would immediately on his return give him a minute account of everything, and be full of regrets that Dudley had not been able to share his pleasure. They used to draw and paint and carve a great deal together, and once, under Dudley's directions, Ion and his eldest brother made a little model railway-line, on which a small engine ran. His devotion to Dudley remained the same all his life, and he felt his death most acutely. He used afterwards to go to the nursery and talk about him for hours with the nurse, and everything in any way connected with him was sacred in his eyes. He never required to be amused like most children, but was always full of resources in himself — reading was at all times and above all things his delight. From the time when he was about five years old, he used on Sunday afternoons to read the Bible to the other children and explain it; and Dudley and he were in the habit of reading and praying together. When he was about seven, he began to go and read the Bible in the cottages, and the people were perfectly amazed at his knowledge of the Bible and his power of explaining it. He did this entirely without suggestion from any one, and never talked of it to any one ; it was only from the people themselves that it was found out. His old nurse used then to say that she was sure he would one day be a missionary. He was so Home^ Childhood, School. 11 much loved by every one, that he went by no other name in the household than that of " the angel." He was as generous then as he was in later years. When out walking, he could not pass ragged or hungry- looking persons, without emptying his pockets for them ; and when all his money was gone he would save up biscuits and the like and give them away. Before he received his allowance of pocket-money, he always carefully planned how every penny was to be spent, and faithfully adhered to his scheme. He once saved up to buy some ginger- nuts, which were his favourite weakness, for himself, and went down to Inverurie to buy them ; but on the way back, he met a hungry-looking boy, and promptly bestowed them all on him. Of such things too he would never speak, and it was only through the nurse watching him continually that his acts of kindness were found out. He did it all, as the nurse said, " just as if it was his ordinary work." He was always full of life and merriment, and after he grew older there was nothing the younger children enjoyed more than when he came, as he often did, to romp with them in the nursery. At the age of nine, he began to work under a tutor. This gentleman, Mr. Redknap, at first gave daily lessons to Ion and Dudley at Brighton, where Lord Kintore was then living, and subsequently became resident tutor at Keith-Hall, and accompanied the family abroad when for nearly a year they resided at Vico near Naples, or in Naples itself. Mr. Redknap writes : — " The work of God the Holy Spirit was clearly mani- sested at an early period of Ion's life : grace wrought in his heart, and deeply was he interested to listen to the story of the Cross, and of the life and ways of the Lord Jesus in His path of love and grace. During the many walks and rambles that we had together, he would often say to me, * I wish you would talk to me,' which I knew meant to say. Will you speak to me of the Saviour and of the incidents in the life of the Lord Jesus ? . . . . He was a thoroughly conscientious and noble-hearted boy." 12 Home, Childhood, School. At the age of eleven, he was sent to the large pre- paratory school of Cheani, near Epsom, in Surrey ; then as now, under the management of the Eev. E. S, Tabor. Here he gained a considerable number of prizes, and seems to have been thoroughly happy. In 1869, being now thirteen years of age. Ion went up to Harrow to compete for an Entrance Scholarship, which he was successful in obtaining. Mr. Arthur Watson, the master in whose House he resided while at Harrow, has written the following note describing their first meeting and his subsequent impression : — "I well remember my first meeting with Ion Keith- Falconer. At the beginning of the Easter holidays in each year, an examination is held at Harrow for the election of entrance scholars. It was at that time in 1869 that two visitors were announced to me, who proved to be Ion Keith-Falconer, then a bright, fair, intelligent looking boy not thirteen years old, and a master from his private school. Ion then and there informed me that he was coming to be a boarder in my House, and did not seem disconcerted when I assured him that there must be some mistake, as no previous communication on the subject had been made to me. Eventually we came to a compromise. I was greatly attracted by the open guileless face of my young visitor, and I promised that if he obtained a scholarship I would find a place for him. He was duly elected a scholar; and thus it hapi^ened that I had the happiness of seeing and watching him throughout his too short, but always blameless and distinguished, career at Harrow. "His boyish life was noticeable from the first for marked individuality afid determination. The public school system, great as are its merits, has at present too great a tendency to repress idiosyncrasies of taste and temperament, and to impel those who come under its influence to adopt a more or less common type of manners and pursuits. It was therefore refreshing to meet with one who was by no means disposed to swim necessarily with the stream ; and who though in no wise self -engrossed Home, Childhood, School, 13 or unsociable, would not flincli for a moment from saying or doing what he believed to be right, at the risk of in- curring impopularity, or being charged with eccentricity. He was one of those boys, not too common, who are not afraid to have the courage of their opinions. Always high principled and religious, he never disguised his views. I remember how, when almost head of my House, he dis- played conspicuously on the wall of his room a printed roll of texts from the Bible — an open avowal of his belief, which was far less common, and more noticeable, at the time I speak of, than it would be now. Not that he was anything of a prig or a Pharisee : far from it. He was an earnest, simple-hearted, devout. Christian boy. ** He had not been very long at Harrow^ before, under the belief that he would make more progress in Mathe- matics than in Classics, he was transferred to the Modern Side. He rose to the head of it before he left the school, which he left at an earlier age than usual, to read with a tutor preparatory to entering Cambridge : I perfectly recollect how in presenting him with his last prize Dr. Butler, then our head master, expressed his regret that he was not to remain his full time at Harrow. ** He was no trifler or dilettante, but always energetic, manly and vigorous. As far as I remember, he was not remarkable for any success in games : and of course there was no opportunity of developing that special skill in bicycling for which he was afterwards so conspicuous. He showed however great proficiency in shorthand writing, and succeeded in inspiring one or more of his companions with an enthusiasm for it. In fact, either he himself or a pupil was in the habit of taking down whole sermons in shorthand that were preached in the school chapel. " My own intercourse with him was always most cordial and happy. Nothing ever occurred to overcloud it : and I feel sure that his lofty consistent character, and scorn of all that was low and base, must have had influence over his companions. Wlien his Harrow days were over, it was always a great pleasure to me when I was able to meet him again. I was delighted to hear from time to time of his Cambridge distinctions, and increasing fame ^ He had, as a matter of fact, been there three years. 14 Home, Childhood, School, as an Oriental scholar, and greatly shocked and distressed when the news came that a life of so much promise had been, in the Providence of Grod, so prematurely, as it seemed, cut off. With me the pleasant memories of his bright and Grod-fearing boyhood will linger as long as I live." With the above it is interesting to compare the remi- niscences of a school-fellow, Mr. G. W. E. Eussell, for- merly M.P. for Aylesbury. Mr. Russell thus writes of him : — "Ion Keith-Falconer came to Harrow in September, 1869. Earlier in the year he had won an entrance scholarship, an honour gained by open competition among all the best taught boys of the private schools. He was therefore already known as a clever and industrious boy, and I remember being interested by tvhat I heard of him before I ever saw him. " I was older than Ion : I had been nearly two years in the school, and I was not in Mr, Watson's House, where he was ; therefore my opportunities of seeing him were few: but I well remember my first sight of him. Mr. Watson gave a breaking-up supper before the Christmas holidays (1869), and asked me to it. Ion was then pointed out to me, and I perfectly recollect the engrossed expression of his face, and the pose of his head as he leant back in his seat, in complete and intense enjoyment of some humorous speeches and songs. I have a photo- graph of him as one of a group of Mr. Watson's House, in which this attitude and this expression are exactly re- produced. I cannot remember anything of Ion during the year 1870, beyond the general impression that he worked hard, particularly at Mathematics, and rose ra- pidly in the school " In 1871 I went into Mr. Watson's House, and then for two years I saw a great deal of Ion. My recollection of him at this time is perfectly distinct. He was not like other boys: he was essentially the reverse of common- place. In every action and quality — in look and voice and manner and bearing — he was individual. In the first Home, Childhood, School. 15 place as to religion : Ion's was not the simple goodness of an nninstructed but well-meaning boy, though that in its way is beautiful. He was already an advanced, and, if the word is permissible in such a context, an accomplished Christian. " It goes without saying that his moral standard in speech and action was the highest. And this in him was the result of a heart filled through and through with the love of G-od and Christ. But besides this, he had thought carefully and gravely about religious problems, and had defined and even rigid opinions. Thus when a Confirmation was about to be held in the school chapel, and many of his friends and contemporaries were candi- dates for it, Ion astonished his tutor by declaring himself in heart and intention a member of the Free Church of Scotland, and on principle oj^posed to episcopal rites. His religion was by no means self-contained, personal and passive. He longed to make others better; and he took an earnest, and, as he rose in the school, an authoritative part against those forms of * evil communications,' which are always present in a greater or less degree in every assemblage of boys. " Then again as to his work, Ion was not like other boys. Most boys who work at all, work chiefly from the wish for distinction. This motive never seemed present to him. He worked often at odd and out of the way sub- jects, such as shorthand, not for the sake of prizes or promotion at school, but either simply to improve his own mind, or with a view to future usefulness " Perhaps the foregoing remark as to the absence of any wish for distinction as such, though in the main true, must not be absolutely pressed. There was indeed a total absence in Ion Keith-Falconer of the petty vanity which can see in each school or college success an end in itself, rather than the stepping-stone to a fresh advance and a means towards higher usefulness ; but he was by no means without the healthy ambition which enjoys a keen intellectual contest, rejoicing heartily if success at- tended him, though ready with most genuine sympathy 16 Home, Childhood, School. to congratulate the victor, if the result were otherwise. It may be worth noting that his chief distinctions at Harrow, besides the Entrance Scholarship, were the Ebrington prize for Grerman, the Flower prize for German prose, and the prize for Problems, all of which were gained in 1873. Mr. Eussell has referred to Keith-Falconer's practice of writing shorthand while at school. Of this we shall speak more fully in the following chapter ; it will suffice here to say that he learnt it quite unaided, and before he had left school he had acquired a very high degree of proficiency. His favourite amusement too of bicycling had begun in the Harrow days, when he was about fifteen. Truly the boy was father to the man in this case, if ever. The lines of reading, the bent for languages, the keen interest in the study of Scripture, the simple, rest- ful, yet thoughtful faith, the eager desire to be of service to others, the deep warm affection he gave to those whom he called friend, — all these characterised Ion Keith-Fal- coner alike as schoolboy, undergraduate, and to the last. The following interesting note, written by Mr. E. E. Bowen, the master of the Modern Side at Harrow, strikingly brings this out. Both this note, it is true, and that which follows it, written by the present Master of Trinity, who was Head-Master of Harrow during the whole time that Keith-Falconer was at the school, extend into a period beyond the Harrow days; but the present seems the fittest place for both the accounts. It will be remembered that at the end of the summer term of 1872, Keith- Falconer passed from the Classical to the Modern Side at Harrow, mainly with the view of devoting in- creased attention to Mathematics. Mr. Bowen writes : " It was for only one year, 1872-3, that Keith-Falconer was in my Form at Harrow — the Modern Sixth. He did well as a schoolboy, but short of the very front rank. Home, Childhood, School. 17 Though industrious, he had some caprice It would be difficult to find a pleasanter boy to deal with ; he was always interested, always cheerful, with an eye for the picturesque side of things, and a delightful way of running off the rails in any direction that happened to suit his fancy. He took a good deal of pains with his lessons ; his note-books were master-pieces, and he shewed a re- markable refinement and delicacy in all that he did ; but his views of the proportion of things were often different from those of his teachers, and he would devote himseK to some side issue, or spend hours on writing out some short- hand notes, when other boys were passing him by. " I saw him often when he was at Cambridge, and was happy enough to retain his friendship till the last. His bicycling feats were one subject of common interest between us. Bicycles were just coming into fashion when he went to the University : he was an enthusiast in the use of them, and an admirable performer; and when he appeared in riding costume at Harrow, with his tall figure mounted on the enormous machine that he rode, it was a sight to see. He kept up the amusement for many years : for two or more he was certainly the best bicyclist in England, and his delight in success only shewed in more than common relief the charming modesty with which he carried his honours. He had a real delight in feats of strength and endurance for their own sake. He seemed to have found the same quality in one of the professional bicyclists with whom he became acquainted ; and again and again he would tell me how John Keen was a man whose soul was above prizes — a man to be made a friend of. " It is about eight or nine years ago that under the im- pression, which may have been a mistaken one, that he was in danger of squandering his powers for want of some de- finite object, I remember writing to him at Cambridge, urging that on the one hand he should lay himself out to edit some book — I suggested one — which fell within the line of his reading, and set to work at it for the next year or two ; and that on the other, while his physical powers were still at their best, he should perform some bicycling feat which it would be a pleasure afterwards to remember. He came down to Harrow more than once to discuss these 18 Home, Childhood, School. plans, but especially the latter ; and we spent the evenings over maps of England, and argument about roads and routes. Finally it was settled that he should go down to Cornwall with his bicycle and start from the Land's End, to ride, if he could, to John o' Groat's House within a fortnight. The experiment was a failure ; bad luck in roads, and abominable weather, stopped him. But the idea was not given up : and in 1882 he accomplished the feat in thirteen days. It has since been done by shorter routes and in much shorter time : but six years ago the roads were worse made and less familiar than now ; and machines have since then been built in special view of per- formances of the kind. As it was, and with the difficul- ties that were encountered, the ride was a splendid display of strength and endurance. He carried post-cards and telegraph forms, and two or three times a day he would despatch one of these to give me an account of his pro- gress. There still lingered a memory of him in the Har- row Modern Side ; and we hung up a big map of England in the class-room, and marked his victorious career with a tiny red flag day after day throughout the fortnight till we landed him safe at John o' Groat's. He did 215 miles in his last two days. He was very much pleased at his suc- cess, and came and gave us an hour's talk about it — a sort of informal lecture — a few weeks later. '* The other subject on which I used to hear from him from time to time was the special line of study to which he had devoted himself. He had always been particularly interested in the Old Testament lessons at school : and he had also, as it seemed, a Scotchman's delight in questions of theology. I suppose it was this which attracted him, by means of Hebrew, to the other Semitic languages. The study was one in which I was unable to follow him : but I can form some estimate of the vast amount of labour that he must have gone through when once he had adopted this line of reading. Of one thing I am sure, that whatever he learnt he made his own ; for I never knew anyone so clear- headed, I had almost said so candid, about what he knew. The way in which he could state an unsolved difficulty seemed almost as good as a solution of it. He was no less a consummate expounder of subjects known to few than he Home, Childhood, School. 19 was a delightful companion on ground which was common to all. I remember writing to him once to ask about the method and time of the adoption of the Western Aramaic among the Hebrews. There are very many scholars who could have answered the question ; but I am afraid some would have left the questioner at the end much where they found him. Keith-Falconer's reply, on a couple of sheets of note-paper, was a model of simple and clear-headed statement ; it said just what was wanted, and told it with- out any display of learning or attempt at style. I think this clear-headedness in matters of intellect was after all only a reflection of the moral simplicity which was his highest and most beautiful gift. I have often known young men who were candid, many who were devout, and many who were pleasant : but I can hardly remember any who united the three qualities so fully. He approached the world of ideas as great observers approach the world of nature, with wonder, with reverence, and with humility. His earnestness of feeling seemed to grow more large- minded and wider in sympathy as he developed into man- hood ; and even in the things about which he cared most a sort of boyish playfulness — freedom — trustfulness — never left him." The following letter, from the pen of the present Master of Trinity, will fitly close the series of reminiscences of Keith-Falconer's Harrow life. " Trinity Lodge, Cambridge, Nov. 30, 1887. " Dear Mr. Sinker, " You have asked me if I can give you a few recol- lections of our dear friend Keith-Falconer when he was a boy at Harrow. They must be but few, for he came com- paratively little under my own personal notice. He was not a member of my House, and his stay in my Form was, for reasons which I will soon explain, very brief. " He came to Harrow, as you know, in 1869, winning one of our Entrance Scholarships in open competition. It was a Classical Scholarship, and as a matter of course he was placed on the Classical Side. He rapidly passed up the 20 Home, Childhood, School, Forms on that Side till he reached my own, the Upper Sixth. I was struck at once by his intelligence and steady work, and was surprised when I learned that he wished to be transferred to our Modern Side, with a view, if I re- member rightly, to a fuller training in Mathematics, French and Grerman. In consequence of this transfer, I saw much less of him, our intercourse being almost limited to a weekly lesson in Modern History. " While a member of the Modern Side, he won, in 1873, our two school prizes for knowledge of Grerman ; soon after which he left us for Trinity, carrying with him no special distinction, but the highest character for manly sterling goodness. " Later on came the good news of his University suc- cesses in Theology and the Semitic Languages, proving that he was working with a definite purpose as a professional student. Soon too we began to hear of his feats as a bicyclist, including those rapid progresses from south to north which were telegraphed by him to Mr. Bowen, and at once carefully indicated by pins on a map for the edifi- cation of Mr. Bowen' s boys. " It must have been, I think, in 1884 that I received from him an unexpected but welcome offer to continue certain Prizes for the study of the Scriptures at Harrow, Prizes which had hitherto been provided from another source. The correspondence which then took place between us, followed by a long interview for the discussion of de- tails, shewed me how warm was his affection for his old School, how deep his conviction that the study of the Scriptures at school might be made fruitful at once and interesting, and how thoughtful and well considered were his suggestions for making the Prizes efficient for their purpose. I say nothing of their money value. It was very considerable ; but, as you know, it was not in his nature to spare himself or to do things by halves. He in- stituted them not in his own name, but in memory of his father, the late Earl of Kintore. He followed up this signal service to the School by consenting to be the first Examiner for the Kintore Prizes ; and he sent me, when the work was over, a thoughtful report, giving his impres- sion of the performances of the boys. Home, Childhood, School. 21 " My departure from Harrow in the summer of 1885 put an end to official intercourse of this kind, and I do not think we had any further communication with each other till the end of last year (1886), when I received from him at Davos- Platz a most kind letter of congratulation on my appointment to the Mastership of Trinity. He told me also of the plan which he had formed for going to Aden, and there employing his knowledge of Arabic for mis- sionary purposes. " The result of this generous enterprise we know but too well. The work was scarcely begun before it reached its earthly end. To those who believe in the abiding results of devotion to the cause and the Person of Christ, his short life will not seem a failure. His image will remain fresh in the hearts of many as of a man exceptionally noble and exceptionally winning, recalling to them their own highest visions of unselfish service to Grod and man, and help- ing them to hold fast the truth that in the spiritual world nothing but self-sacrifice is permanently fruitful, and that the seed of a truly Christian life is never quickened except it die. ** Believe me to be. Dear Mr. Sinker, Most truly yours, H. Montagu Butler." Some extracts from letters written by Keith-Falconer during the Harrow days may now be given, and will help considerably to shew what manner of boy he was. The first extract is taken from a letter to his old tutor, Mr. Eedknap, written at the age of fourteen, and the remainder from letters written to Lady Sydney Montagu, afterwards his sister-in-law, now Lady Kintore. " Keith Hall, July 31, 1870. " I arrived here yesterday morning. I started from Harrow at about a quarter to 8 a.m. on Tuesday, and proceeded thence to the Langham Hotel, Portland Place, where I met Mr. Karney and Liverurie.^ At 12 o'clock ^ His eldest brother, now Lord Kintore. 22 Home, Childhood, School. the same day we started for Cambridge from King's Cross station, and arrived there about 1.30. Having lunched at an hotel, we went to look for lodgings for Oddo,^ which was soon effected, and then a jolly row down the Cam. Then we went round the colleges, &c., and came back to London in the evening. " The next day we separated, I and Oddo departing by the ' City of London ' boat for Aberdeen, .... The * City of London ' is clean and comfortable, but very slow ; we took 54 hours to make the journey, labouring against a wind dead against us for a good part of the way, and rocking about like a cork. I was not, however, sick, but once or twice very near it, which is almost worse. " When we arrived before Aberdeen, it was past time for the last train for the north; at least we could not have caught it, being only seven minutes to the time. The tide was unfortunately out, so that we could not cross the bar ; we then signalled for a tug-boat, which, in accor- dance with the proverbial slowness of Scotchmen, came, in about half an hour, or more, with a small boat in tow. This was to convey passengers from one boat to the other. The latter occupied a very long time, as only about 15 could go at once. So we had to wait till four boatfuls had been deposited safely on the tug, which in itself was not over safe, on account of the swell. G-etting into the tug-boat required a little presence of mind, as one had to wait till the swell lifted the small boat on to a level wdth the deck of the tug-boat, and then take a spring in; a false step would probably have proved fatal. " Well, at last all the passengers were got safely on to the tug, and we started for the harbour, where we arrived about half -past eight p.m., and I was not at all sorry to sit down to dinner at Douglas's. We started next morning by the first train, arriving at Inverurie at eight ; the rest you can guess. " So much for the journey, now for Harrow. I am now in the third fifth, V. 3 in fact, Mr. Watson's Form, in whose House I am. In Classics, out of 37, I came out altogether 9th, in Mathematics 1st, and in Modern Lan- guages 3rd ; placing me altogether 4th in the total, which ^ His old boyish name for his brother. Home, Childhood, School. 23 I think good. I got a prize for Mathematics, Smiles' s Life of George Stephenson, which I read on the voyage and which was very interesting. *' I must see if I can't come out first in Form next term, in the V. 2 (Mr. C. F. Holmes) I am now in the Harrow Eifle Corps Band as drummer ; I had some rare lark at Wimbledon where we vanquished the other public schools, and won both the Ashburton Shield and Spencer Cup. I will write again. " Your affectionate friend." The letters to Lady Sydney Montagu dwell largely on his thoughts on religious subjects, and bring out at once the depth of his love for Christ, and his great humility. His allusions to his friend Mr. Charrington's work in the East End of London will be better understood when I shall have spoken of that work at some length in a subsequent chapter. " Harrow, (no date, but May, 1873). ** . . . . Do you know the hymn beginning, ' The sands of time are sinking, the dawn of heaven breaks ' ? It is my favourite one. A verse of it is quoted in Forgiveness, Life and Glory, ^ as follows : — ' O Christ, He is the fountain, The deep sweet well of love ; The streams on earth I've tasted More deep I'll drink above. There to an ocean fulness His mercy doth expand, Where glory, glory dwelleth In Emmanuel's land. ' I wish I had tasted more deeply of that stream than I have I have very nearly decided to become a Free Church Minister. If so, you will have to look over my Hebrew Exercises and hear me the Shorter Catechism. .... I have been reading the Shadow and the Substance to- ^ Both this work and the other mentioned in this letter are by Mr. (now Sir) S. A. Blackwood, 24 Home, Childhood, School. day, annexing a remark here and there I am grind- ing away awfully hard at my G-erman, for the Ebring- ton prize. The exam, comes off on the 10th of next month " The last of my texts for to-day on the roller is ' Surely, I come quickly. Amen. Even so, come Lord Jesus.' I don't feel as if I was ready for that. I mean I am so bad, but ' I have blotted out as a thick cloud thy transgressions, and as a cloud thy sins.' " " Harrow, (no date, but June, 1873). " I have had my GTerman examinations : did I tell you ? I did very well, I don't think anyone better. I am not proud, but I don't mind telling you exactly what I think. I did good prose, which counts very high I am also writing for the Flower Prize : not a prize for botany, or anything about flowers, but for a prize offered by Mr. Flower for the best bit of G-erman prose. The exercise is to be sent in on Saturday, 21st June. I hope to do well .... I did it nearly all to-day, and I can't find out any mistakes. What is the G-erman for . No, that is unfair. I suppose I must do it all myself. (Don't think that I wrote the last three lines to shew off my honesty ! I was really going to ask for something, but it wouldn't be quite fair.) .... Your shorthand was much better than the preceding one — but you have forgotten the vowels, please learn them up 'Don't let your desire to write fast exceed your desire to write well,' as you have probably seen in Pitman's book." *' Harrow, July 6, 1873. " I want you to answer this question. Do you think a person can be saved without knowing how he is saved, that is only by acknowledging Jesus as the one person who can and is willing to save him and by asking Him to do so (i.e. to save him somehow, how he knows not) ? I say, Most decidedly. For He says, * Come unto Me, &c.,' * Behold I stand at the door and knock ; if any man, &c.' Now if you asked me how Jesus saved me, I could not tell you. I know He died for my sins .... I have often asked God for Jesus' sake to make clear to me everything Home, Childhood, School. 25 I don't understand. But He won't. (Why?) I often nearly cry because everything is so confused and dark. Yet whenever I see a person who loves Him, I immediately feel drawn towards him. However I sometimes feel very happy when I think that the Lord Himself hath said, * Come unto Me, and I will give you rest ; ' and ' If ye then being evil know how to give good gifts, &c.* and texts like them, which are all contained in that little book you sent me I send my character : tell me if it is true, and whether it is not too good." "Harrow, Jnly 16, 1873. ". . . . I must say something about Jesus Christ, be- cause I think He ought never to be left out; and that is the fault I find with parties and balls and theatres : Jesus Christ, Who is the All in All, is utterly left out. It seems very curious, when one comes to think about it, what power the devil has over people, has not he ? But that shall not always be so — Lord, hasten the time when Thou shalt reign altogether, and when Thy servants shall serve Thee, and Thy Name shall be upon their foreheads, and when they shall see Thy face — for Jesus' sake." " Harrow, (no date, but July, 1873). " . . . . Charrington sent me a book yesterday, which I have read. It is called Folloiving Ftdly, .... about a man who works among the cholera people in London, so hard that he at last succumbs and dies. But every page is full of Jesus Christ, so that I liked it. And I like Charrington, because he is quite devoted to Him, and has really given up all for His glory. I must go and do the same soon : how I don't know." The concluding letter from which I cite was written from Mr. Charrington' s house. '* Stepney Green, (no date, but towards the end of Jidy, 1873). " . . . . After dinner we went the rounds to inspect the tent for preaching, and Charrington lent it to a little missionary to hold a midnight meeting in on Thursday. 26 Home, Childlwod, School, We also visited the Mission-Hall, where they were making a pool for baptizing people in In the evening a well attended meeting at the tent ; foul air. After the meeting (the speakers were Dr. an old, but very energetic and godly Scotchman, hroad accent, a soldier from Wellington barracks, a Mr. Kerwin, and a Mr. ), we went to have some tea, and then to the Hospital, to see a man supposed to be dying, but found to be recovering. '* I have lots to do here. I did not get to bed till nearly one o'clock, having been up nineteen hours. We visited the Boys' Home, which I think a capital place. The dor- mitories are perfect ; ventilation, cleanliness and comfort could not have been better looked after." At the end of the summer term of 1873, Keith-Falconer finally left Harrow, it being settled that he should spend his last year before entering Cambridge with a tutor, and devote himself exclusively to Mathematics. Accordingly in October he went to reside in the house of the Rev. Lewis Hensley, Senior Wrangler in 1846, and formerly a Fellow of Trinity. This gentleman was now vicar of Hitchin, a small town in Hertfordshire, half-way between Cambridge and London; and here Keith-Falconer spent the ensuing twelvemonth, save for various short vacations. Soon after he had begun to reside in his new abode, he writes to his sister-in-law : " There are three other fellows here : we work six hours a day. I do mathematics exclusively, trigonometry and analytical conies at present .... To-day is Sunday : I and Mr. Hensley walked over to Preston this morning, a small village at a distance of about three miles, where he preached. The Church here is an enormous building. The vicarage is just between the Market-Place, or the town- square, and the Church railings. My window, at which I am now sitting, looks out on a sort of walk which runs half-way round the Church, and which is the resort of all the little boys in the neighbourhood ; so that I hear nothing all day but * Oh, 'ave you seen the Shah ! ' varied by a continual ringing of the Church bells. Then there is Home, Childhood, School. 27 the Church clock which strikes lustily every quarter of an hour, giving forth 636 strokes per diem, which is a great excitement for us in this little place." Although Keith-Falconer worked, as his habit was, conscientiously at the task set him, it cannot be doubted that neither for Classics at Harrow, nor for Mathematics at Hitchin, did he feel any special enthusiasm. Partly, as Mr. Bowen has pointed out in his note on the Harrow days, he had various side-interests which absorbed a cer- tain amount of time and energy, so that he was sometiifies passed by students, who, with less originality of thought than he, and often probably with less brilliancy, did how- ever stick with greater persistence to the subject in hand. Still there was a further reason and a weightier one. In neither of the two lines of study to which as yet his mind had been directed, had he found anything on which his zeal could be thoroughly aroused. When his mind at last found its true field of work, no student could show a more enthusiastic or more unchanging zeal. Mr. Hensley has kindly furnished me with some in- teresting reminiscences' of his former pupil. In these while one reads as a matter of course : — * I soon found that he would be diligent and conscientious in his work, and that I had in him a satisfactory pupil, whom I could trust without fear, indoors or outdoors ' ; one is not sur- prised to find the further remark, ' In neither Classics nor Mathematics was he an intense student.' Mr. Hensley continues : " He was full of all sorts of by-occupations and hobbies, and it was in following these that his eager character ex- pended itself. He took up Pitman's Shorthand, which he practised diligently, and frequently treated us to disquisi- tions on its advantages. He was at all times full of some matter of this kind, and overflowing in talk about it with others, and generally in very high spirits and full of fun. Then he brought with him a bicycle, and rapidly devel- 28 Home, Childhood, School. oped, whilst at Hitcliin, that mastery of the machine which made him afterwards the champion rider of England. I suppose his tall figure was an advantage to him, but more, I should say, the ' perfervid ' resolution, with which he threw himself into whatever interested him. Or he would rise at seven to take lessons in the Tonic Sol-fa System, or at other times might be heard singing to himself as he lay in bed, at the same early hour. In short, he was always doing something : if he had but a quarter of an hour before work-time, he would be busy with his Shorthand, or would spring on his bicycle and dash round the town and be home again at the appointed hour. "I have mentioned his singing. This was connected with plans for doing good, which likewise occupied much of his thoughts. One of these was the promotion of the Temperance cause, to which he devoted himself by assist- ing in the entertainments and addresses of a Temperance Brigade of young men, which was under the management of Mr. Arthur Latchmore. With him also he would fre- quently, after attending the Parish Church in the morning, gather together a meeting of poor people in the open air or in a schoolroom in one of the outlying parts of the Parish, and conduct a little service with Moody and Sankey's Hymns, or would visit the sick and infirm on a week- day. " He had been brought up in the Free Church of Scot- land, and although this did not prevent him from attend- ing our Church services, he was in many ways independent in his views, at times startling strictly orthodox and regular Churchmen, and no doubt kept in his heart and in his convictions a strong attachment to the Church of his early education " I have already touched on his labours amongst the poor, and a few words may perhaps be added, contributed by Mr. Arthur Latchmore, with whom he shared in these labours, and to whom he expressed his most intimate thoughts : — ' Keith-Falconer was very fond of visiting the cottages of the poor, especially at the Folley, speaking a kindly word to try and rouse them to think more of their souls' salvation ; and often by the bedside of the sick and infirm would he sing and read to them, cheering and com- Home, Childhood, School, 29 forting many a weary soul, and not forgetting to help those in distress with his purse. He was a strong believer in the power of prayer, for nearly always before going out either to the open air services, the visiting the poor, or conducting the Bible Class in connection with our Young Men's Brigade, we used to have a few minutes in prayer together.' " Mr. Hensley concludes : — " He became much attached to Hitchin, and frequently in after years ran over from Cambridge, a,nd twice in vacation time came to lodge here with friends for the sake of reading, and once in 1875 came back to me for a week's special help. Taking all this into account, I can still hardly believe that his residence with me was so brief, so deep is the impression which he has left with us all." It was during his residence at Hitchin, that the first great sorrow of his life befell Keith-Falconer. His elder brother Dudley, two years and a half older than himself, had always been of a more delicate constitu- tion than his two strong young brothers, one older and the other younger than himself. The departure of the eldest brother for school, and the gap in years dividing the others from their youngest brother Arthur, tended especially to associate Ion with Dudley. The delicate health of the latter forbade his being sent to school, and thus he continued to study at home with the tutor with whom Ion worked. In their amusements too they were inseparable, and spent much time together in a room allotted to them at Keith -Hall for carpentering and the like. In spite of Dudley's lack of physical strength, he was at all times a leader in his brothers' various boyish pur- suits : to his judgement various points were referred for decision. At last the mere delicacy of health began to assume 30 Home, ChildJiood, School. a graver form, and Dudley became more and more a con- firmed invalid. He had from his earliest childhood been one in whom the love of G-od had been of the very essence of his being ; and now with gradually increasing weakness, the pure flame only shone out brighter and fuller. At times, though very weak, he was capable of taking, the fullest interest in all that was going on around him, and would throw his whole soul into the endeavour to speak words of peace to others; at other times, intense pain allowed him but to lie still and suffer in silence. In the autumn of 1873, Dudley's increasing weakness warned his parents of the expediency of removing him to a warmer climate. Accordingly, as on previous occasions, he was taken to Cannes, his mother accompanying him. Here for a time some improvement seemed to shew itself ; but it was the last flicker of life, and gradually it became plain that the end was near, and the father and Ion were summoned from England. Still death came not as speedily as he had been looked for. Day after day the dying boy awoke to the consciousness of the fact that this world was around him yet. No fear of death disquieted him ; he had loved his Saviour with too deep an intensity to feel aught but earnest longing to meet Him. Nor was there at all a desire for death simply as the release from keen bodily anguish. With brain clear to the last, with heaven opened to his enraptured gaze, he waited, eagerly but submissively, till the time should come for him to cross the river. On the 27th of November, Dudley Keith -Falconer died. His death caused the first gap in the bright family circle, since so sadly thinned. CHAPTER III. STUDENT LIFE AT CAMBRIDGE. " Whose powers shed round him in the common strife, Or mild concerns of ordinary life, A constant influence, a peculiar gi-ace." Wordsworth. In the October term of 1874, Ion Keith-Falconer began his residence as a Cambridge undergraduate, having been entered on the books of Trinity College on the 24th of September preceding. To this great College, with which so many illustrious names of the past are associated, he was warmly attached, and his letters in later years contain frequent remarks shewing cordial love both to College and University. He did not occupy rooms within the College walls at any period of his undergraduate life, save in the Long Vacations, when, by the rule of the College, such residence is obligatory. With this exception, he occupied the same set of rooms during his whole Cambridge life until his marriage in 1884. These were on the north side of the Market Square (21 Market Hill), facing the Guild-Hall. Here he worked resolutely at his books, utterly unaffected by certain distracting sounds, which might have disturbed a less diligent or less equable student. On market days, a noisy hum from the busy square pervaded his room ; all day long and all night the clock of the University Church of St. Mary chimed the quarter-hours, and at nine each evening the great curfew bell rang, as it had done for 32 Student Life at Cambridge. centuries, and this was followed by the tolling of the number of the day of the month. To all these disturbances, Keith -Falconer was supremely indifferent : he liked in the intervals of work to look out on the busy scene of life below. The late Bishop Hampden was said to have written his Baawpton Lectures while his children were playing around him in his study. The same kind of concentration over work, irrespective of surround- ing disturbances, was always a marked characteristic of Keith-Falconer. In dealing even with the undergraduate career of a man so many-sided in his interests, it is necessary to aim at giving its due importance to each element to be described. Here was a young Christian man, whose Christianity prompted him to use every faculty for the furtherance of the Grospel, — a student as careful and painstaking as any of those to whom the highest goal of human ambition is a distinguished place in the class-list, — a wi'iter of short- hand, whose pace and accuracy could hardly be excelled, — a bicyclist, whose prowess and endurance won him in- numerable triumphs. We propose in the present chapter mainly to dwell on the student side of Keith-Falconer's life, from the time of his first entering Trinity in 1874 up to that of his last examination in 1880 ; and also to speak of those secondary interests which served him for relaxation of mind and body. We shall reserve to the following chapter some account of certain schemes for benefiting others with which he was associated even at this early period. His intention had been in the first instance to compete for Honours in the Mathematical Tripos, Mathematics being a subject to which, as we have seen, he had paid special attention at Harrow, and with Mr. Hensley. With this intention in view, he became a pupil of the late Mr. Thomas Dale, Fellow of Trinity, one of the most distin- guished of the then Cambridge Mathematicians. Student Life at Cambridge, 33 Early in his first term he writes to his sister-in-law : — *• Cambridge, Nov. 11, 1874. **I have lots to tell you, but I don't know where to begin. Yesterday was the ten-mile bicycle race — three started. I was one. I ran the distance in 34 minutes, being the fastest time, amateur or professional, on record. I was not at all exhausted. The road was splendid, and a strong wind blowing from behind To-day I am going to amuse the public by riding an 86-inch bicycle to Trumpington and back. There is a little scale of steps up it, up which I am helped, and then started off and left to myself. It is great fun riding this leviathan: it creates such an extraordinary sensation among the old dons who happen to be passing. If I fell off it, I should probably break an arm or a leg — so I shan't repeat the performance after to-day " I have been going in for Sol-Fa lately with vigour. I have got two of the certificates given by Curwen, and astonished mother by singing some tunes at sight correctly. " The Little-go begins on the 5th and ends on the 17th, one paper only each day I like my lodgings very much. My landlady can almost remember Adam, and tells me stories about Dr. Whewell and people dead long ago I have a class in the Choir School on Sunday mornings." The " Little-go " referred to in the preceding paragraph is, it perhaps need hardly be said, an examination which all undergraduates must pass, whether candidates for Honours or for an Ordinary Degree. He again refers to it in another letter to the same : — ''Jan. 3, 1875. " Did you see the Little-go list ? . . . . The papers were absurdly easy. About forty men were plucked, and seven for cnhhing. The man next me wanted me to give him a few hints, but I could not do it ; so he was plucked . . . ." This last incident deserves a somewhat fuller mention, 34 Student Life at Cambridge. as illustrating alike Keitli-Falconer's keen sense of honour and his kindliness. On the day before the examination began, a man going in for it wrote to him saying that he had found they would sit side by side during the exami- nation, and that as he was not very well prepared in some of the subjects, he hoped Keith-Falconer would give him a little surreptitious help. To this Keith-Falconer replied that he would not dream of such a thing, but if the other cared, he would devote every minute of time till the exami- nation began to * coaching ' him for it. Nothing, however, was seen of the man, and the result happened that might have been anticipated. A few days later he again writes to his sister-in-law : — ''Jan. 8, 1875. ** The bicycle race at Lillie Bridge has been postponed till the 23rd .... I went to stay with my antagonist for a few days, and took him and his mother and his aunt to Spurgeon's on the Sunday. They were slightly astonished' to see such a mass of people all rivetted for nearly an hour. Moody and Sankey will probably hold a meeting in his Tabernacle. I shall go to hear them, I hope. I expect it will be glorious." Three terms in due course passed away, and at the annual College examination in June, Keith-Falconer obtained a First-Class, and was a Prizeman. All this time he seems to have entertained a certain amount of doubt whether the course he was pursuing was the best for him ; whether, in spite of the mental training which the study of Mathematics gives, he was not perhaps making an end of the means ; instead of following a line of study in which he could feel a higher degree of sympathy with the work itself. It was not without careful thought, in which reasons for and against were anxiously weighed, and not without the fullest search for help and guidance, that when one-third of Student Life at Camhridge. 35 his undergraduate course had passed, Keith-Falconer re- solved to give up his previous plans, and to begin to read for Honours in the Theological Tripos. No one who knows the English University system needs to be told that to change from Tripos to Tripos is an altogether unusual proceeding, and is, as a rule, one to be decidedly deprecated. In Keith-Falconer's case, there can be no doubt that the change was a wise one. If viewed merely on the comparatively low ground of academic dis- tinction, it might be urged that Harrow had given him a sound, scholarly knowledge of G-reek and Latin (languages which of course hold an important place in the work of the Theological Tripos), and his first year at college had taught him the student's first great lesson, how to read. If viewed on the higher ground of permanent interest in the work for its own sake, then too there could be no doubt. He shewed the keenest appreciation of his new line of work from the first, and kept it to the end. A man, in whose heart was the desire to serve Grod — and how fervent the desire was the Harrow letters have shewn — and therefore the desire to aid others to serve Him, and who felt that great powers had been entrusted to him by Grod so to be used, might well feel in these new studies as though he were humbly seeking to carry out, so far as in him lay, G-od's purpose concerning him. I first became personally acquainted with Keith-Falconer, when, on his deciding to read for Theological Honours, he became my pupil in July, 1875. His appearance at this time, his manner, his tastes, were all strikingly like what they were in later times. He had a remarkably tall, well-shaped figure, whose symmetry seemed to take off from his height of six feet three inches. Physically very strong he certainly was, in one sense, or his wonderful feats of athletic endeavour, of which we must speak presently, would have been impossible. Yet for all those feats, which were partly due no doubt to the 36 Student Life at Cambridge. sustaining power of a strong will, he could not really be called robust. His kindly voice and genial smile will live in the recol- lection of his friends ; like good Bishop Hacket of Lichfield, he might have taken as his motto, "Serve God and be cheerful." Side by side, however, with his geniality there was in Keith-Falconer at all times the most perfect and, so to speak, transparent simplicity. Never was a character more free from any alloy of insincerity or meanness. No undertone of veiled unkindness, or jealousy, or selfishness, found place in his conversation. From the most absolute truthfulness he would never waver ; his frank open speech was the genuine, unmixed outcome of the feelings of his heart. A certain slight, very slight, deafness in one ear made him at times seem absent to those who did not know this, and unknowingly had sat or walked on the wrong side. A characteristic habit of his seemed now and then to give a certain degree of irrelevance to his remarks. Some- times, when in conversation on a topic which interested him, he would, after remaining silent for a short time, join again in the conversation with a remark not altogether germane to the apparent point at issue. He had been fol- lowing out a train of thought suggested by some passing remark, and after working out the idea on his own lines as far as it would go, made his comment on the result. Yet whenever the conversation had to do with the interests or needs of those to whom he was speaking, no one could throw himself more completely, heart and mind, into the matter. Talk for talking' s sake he cordially abhorred, that talk which is simply made as though silence were neces- sarily a bad thing in itself. This interest in widely different topics of conversation was not, however, simply the result of mingled good-nature and courtesy, a mere complaisance, where it was but a care- less good-nature that saved the courtesy from hoUowness. Student Life at Cambridge. 37 Far from it. No one who knew Keith-Falconer well needs to be told how thoroughly, how constantly, and in what varying ways, he could make the business or cause of another his own ; whether it were a friend in need of help, from the most trifling to the most momentous matters, or the absolute stranger whom apparent chance had sent across his path. His old landlady, Mrs. Emmerson, between whom and himself the warmest cordiality always existed, writes : — ** During the nine years he was in residence with me, his sole aim seemed to be, to benefit all needing help, whether friends or strangers. He would frequently bring in those he met accidentally in his walks, give them refreshment, better clothing, or money, and start them in fresh spirits." Still with all this, his kindliness was by no means one lacking its proper counterj^oise of discretion; his strong, clear-headed, Scotch common- sense was constantly mani- fested, even in his schemes of beneficence. Yet even thus it must be remembered that his was a character in which the warm heart was guided in its action by the clear head, not one in which the clear head did but allow itself to be swayed more or less by the loving heart. Love was the dominant power, discretion the corrective influence. It may be well to add a few words at this stage as to what I have called above his secondary interests. Of phy- sical exercises, his favourite, and indeed the only one in which he habitually indulged, was bicycling. To this he had first taken at Harrow, when he was about fifteen, on what was popularly known as a " boneshaker." The level Cambridgeshire roads afforded him admirable scope for this amusement, and the great pace at which he could run, and the long distances for which he could endure, were ex- traordinary. A dozen years ago, it must be remembered, the bicycle had not come into nearly such general use as at present, and great feats of pace and distance were corres- 38 Student Life at Cambridge. pondingly more noticeable. On one occasion, he went on his bicycle in one summer's day between dawn and dark- ness all the way from Cambridge to Bournemouth, where his family were then staying, a distance of nearly 150 miles. It will be desirable to give a brief sketch of some of his athletic successes, but this may best be postponed until we have spoken in detail of his work as a student. Another favourite pursuit, which can hardly perhaps be called an amusement, but which certainly often furnished recreation in the true sense of the word, was shorthand writing. This he had taught himself at Harrow, accord- ing to the system invented by Mr. Isaac Pitman, known as phonography ; and kept it by constant practice in a high state of efficiency. It proved of course of immense use to him in various University and other lectures, and count- less sermons were thus taken down, not simply for practice only, but often with some kind intention to be of service. Thus the Eev. P. W. Minto, for many years the Free Church Minister at Inverurie, writes : " As showing his readiness to be helpful, I may mention that he frequently gave me the benefit of this useful ac- quirement. When I wanted to preach, as far as language is concerned, extempore, he took notes of the sermon, word for word, and then would spend three or four hours next day in writing it for me in longhand, so that I might have it for use on future occasions." ^ Lastly, I may mention music. While his tastes were not keenly musical, of certain forms of sacred music he was very fond. He had acquired a competent degree of skill by means of what is known as the Tonic Sol-Fa sys- tem, which he maintained to be far more easy of attain- ment by the ordinary learner, though the notation itself was one in which the most difficult music could be accu- rately expressed. > Free Church of Scotland Monthly y July 1887, p. 213. Student Life at Cambridge. * 39 With this digression as to Keith-Falconer's various side-interests at this time, we must now attempt to give some account of his work as a student of theology. This, from July 1875 to January 1878, was guided, as I have already said, by the requirements of the Theological Tripos. • These pages may be read by some to whom everything connected with the development of such a mind as Keith- Falconer's must be full of interest, yet to whom the de- tails of this particular examination may be altogether un- known. I therefore venture to give a short description of it, as it was constituted at the time when Keith-Falconer was a competitor in it. At that time, it lasted for seven days, two papers being set each day, and three hours allowed for each. The last four days were devoted to more advanced or more special- ized work. There were thus fourteen papers set ; or fifteen, if an additional paper in Hebrew be included, the marks for which only had regard to the Hebrew Prize. Of these fourteen papers, one was a general paper on the Old Testament, three were devoted to the Hebrew subjects, three to Greek Testament, and the remaining seven to miscellaneous Divinity, Church History and the like. Some of the subjects were unvarying, some were changed from year to year. The general Old Testament paper consisted of questions on the criticism and exegesis of the various books, on the history of the Hebrew text, and of the G-reek and English versions ; as well as on the history of the Jews down to the Christian Era. The three Hebrew papers in 1878 were respectively on Genesis, on Isaiah, and on Zechariah and Ecclesiastes. In the third of these papers, questions on the Septuagint version of the books named were also set. Into all these, in addition to pieces for translation from the Hebrew, and 40 Student Life at Cambridge. critical and exegetical questions, there entered, more or less largely, what is technically known as ** pointing " ; that is, pieces of Hebrew are set in which the student has to supply the vowel and other marks known as the "points." This exercise is one which tests the soundness and accuracy of a student's Hebrew knowledge thoroughly. In the ad- ditional Hebrew paper, pieces of English were also set to be turned into Hebrew, answering to the Greek and Latin composition of the Classical Tripos. Of the three papers on the Grreek Testament, one was of a very general kind, including questions on the history of the New Testament Canon, on the criticism of the text, on the language, and on the contents of the several books. The other two were respectively on the Grospels, with special reference to one, that in 1878 being St. John ; and the remaining books of the New Testament, again with special portions, those for 1878 being Acts i.-xii. and the First Epistle of St Peter. Questions were set in these two papers analogous to those on the Old Testament subjects. Two papers were set on Church History, the first a general one on the first six centuries of the Christian Church, and the other on special subjects, varying each year, those in 1878 being the life and times of Pope G-regory VII. and of Archbishop Cranmer. The five remaining papers were, one on the Ancient Creeds and the Confessions of the Eeformation period; one on Liturgiology, purporting to deal with the structure of the chief ancient Liturgies, and with the history of Christian worship ; two on selected Patristic works, Greek and Latin respectively, those for 1878 being, in Greek the first Apology of Justin Martyr, and three of the polemic treatises of Athanasius ; and in Latin, a book of Irenseus's work Against all Heresies, and two books of Bede's Church History. Lastly, there was a paper on certain Modem Theological Student Life at Cambridge. 41 writings, those set for 1878 being the first part of Butler's Analogy and the first two sections of Bishop Bull's Defensio Fidei Nicence. It will be obvious to any one, whether professed student or not, that the above represents a mass of work to do which creditably might well occupy two years and a half. As a matter of fact, very few men took up quite all the work, though very few on the other hand quite restricted themselves to the first six papers, on which alone the ques- tion of passing or failing hinged. Keith-Falconer made it his set purpose to cover the whole ground, and to do it thoroughly and carefully ; and this he succeeded in doing, though the amount was enough to keep him busily occupied during the two years and a half, except for one digression into another piece of work of which we shall speak presently. While, however, he worked most conscientiously at the whole allotted scheme of subjects, he took distinctly more deHght in the Biblical than in the non-Biblical work, and from the very first shewed pre-eminently the keenest in- terest in the study of Hebrew. The Talmud says, in a well-known passage : " There are four sorts of pupils, the sponge and the funnel, the strainer and the sieve. The sponge is he who sponge th up every- thing ; and the funnel is he who taketh in at this ear and letteth out at that ; the strainer is he that letteth go the wine and retaineth the dregs ; and the sieve is he that letteth go the bran and retaineth the fine flour." Among the last of these four classes any one to whom Keith- Falconer had been a pupil would assuredly place him. It goes without saying that he was neither careless nor unappreciative, but he was not simply the careful, plodding student, who in his utmost zeal does but more or less im- perfectly reproduce his teacher. The scholar, whose study is really to bear worthy fruit, must not only " read, mark 42 Student Life at Cambridge. and learn," but also "inwardly digest" and make in the highest sense his own what he is taught. The teacher of such a pupil need be no chopper- up of intellectual food into small doses, there is certain to be a sufficiency both of receptive and of assimilating power. Such a pupil was Keith-Falconer. Docile he was in the true sense of the word, at the same time he certainly was Nullius addictus jurare in verba magistri, and this not from captiousness or any contrariety of spirit, but simply because the true scholar's instinct was strong within him, to seek ever for the truth and that alone. Thus it was the sterner, severer form of study, specially associated with Cambridge, with its traditional loyalty to Mathematical science and pure scholarship, that attracted him, rather than something perhaps more seemingly in- viting, but less uncompromisingly exact. Hebrew, we have said, was a subject to which Keith- Falconer took kindly from the first, and in a comparatively short space of time he was able to compose with accuracy and elegance in that language. It hardly needs to be said that, as contrasted with a language like G-reek, Hebrew has an exceedingly small vocabulary, and is largely lacking in the power of marking delicate distinctions and modifica- tions of thought characteristic of the former. In this seemingly rigid, inelastic medium, Keith-Falconer early found a peculiar delight in composing, not only by render- ing suitable pieces of English into Hebrew, but also by writing letters in it as a means of communication. A bundle of post-cards now lies before me written by him in that language from 1876 onwards, on every conceivable subject, which shew a power I have not often seen equalled of bending the inflexible idioms and making the scanty vocabulary suffice for the needs of nineteenth cen- tury English. Student Life at Cambridge, 43 We spoke above of a slight digression from the main stream of his work, if it can fairly be called a digression. This was his competition in December, 1876, for one of the prizes founded by the late Dean Jeremie, of Lincoln, for proficiency in the G-reek of the Septuagint. The special subjects appointed in the year when Keith-Falconer was a candidate, were the first book of Samuel, Daniel in the two existing Greek versions, and the apocryphal " Gospel of Nicodemus." Although his Tripos work was heavy, he spared no pains in this competition, and even acquired, with a view to the more thorough treatment of his subject, a sufficient knowledge of the so-called Chaldee language, in which part of the book of Daniel is written. He succeeded in obtaining one of the two prizes, and was also a prizeman at the two annual college examinations in June 1876 and June 1877. On his way up to Cambridge for the October Term of the former year, he broke the journey at Stockton-on- Tees, with the view of helping for a few days in a certain good work that was then being carried on in that town. At this time, Mr. G-. J. Holyoake, the secularist lecturer, was holding a series of meetings in Stockton, and after one of his lectures challenged public discussion. Keith- Falconer, who had been present at the lecture, imme- diately went upon the platform, and brought forward certain objections with such force, that on the particular points at issue he completely silenced his opponent. In December, 1877, the month preceding his Tripos Examination, a great blow befell him in the death of his youngest brother Arthur in his fifteenth year. Always delicate and lacking the robust strength which thrives amid the rough vigour of a public school, Arthur had been educated almost entirely by tutors at home. The heathen poet declares that they " whom the gods love die young" ; and the thought maybe consecrated to a Christian use. In looking at Arthur Keith-Falconer one 44 Student Life at Cambridge. could not help feeling that the exceptional sweetness and gentleness, so absolutely simple and engaging, and the depth of love for Christ which seemed so completely part of his nature, and to carry one as though into a quiet resting-place away from the world's rough din — all pointed to a life which the Master would early call back to Him- self. His absorbing delight was music, for which he had as distinct and special a gift as his brother Ion for language, and to this, his time, so far as it was not taken up with his studies, was largely devoted. During the summer of 1877, he had been, though not robust, seemingly in very good health ; but in the autumn signs of increasing weakness began rapidly to shew them- selves, and as the winter approached it became clear that this world's sunshine was for Arthur almost at an end. It needs not to be said that the two brothers were tenderly attached to one another, and at the beginning of December, Ion Keith-Falconer hurried away from Cambridge to Keith- Hall to be with his brother for such short remaining time as G-od might will. Besides the desire to see his brother once more, he needed change also for himself, for he was by this time feeling by no means well under the long-continued strain of work and anxiety ; indeed during the examination itself in the fol- lowing month, he was sufficiently unwell to require to have recourse to a doctor. He found his brother simply fading away. He suffered no pain, and was perfectly conscious to the last, looking on to the future with the peaceful unquestioning calm of a child who is going home. He died on December 9, and changed the hymns of this lower world for the song of the Seraphim. With the shock of this great loss upon him, and in by no means good physical condition, Keith-Falconer went in for his Tripos on January 4, 1878. On the 24th, the list Student Life at Cambridge. 45 was published, and his was one of the six ^ names in the first class, the prize for Hebrew being also awarded to him. On the Saturday following he took his B.A. degree. For some months after his degree, Keith- Falconer did not reside much in Cambridge. He certainly needed rest, and found it largely in change of occupation, though his letters shew that the studies at which he had made so satisfactory a beginning by no means languished. Most of the time till June he spent at Brighton, where his family were then residing, and devoted himself largely to preparing for an examination at Cambridge an under- graduate friend who needed exceptional help. In August he was at the Broadlands Conference. This is the name given to a meeting gathered by the Right Hon. W. Cowper-Temple (now Lord Mount Temple) at his seat in Hampshire ; a meeting which has for its end the strengthening and deepening of spiritual life. Here his powers of writing phonography came into play to re- port the addresses. To the published account of the pro- ceedings was prefixed an Introduction by Keith-Falconer as to the object, scope and results of the Conference. This Introduction exhibits not only considerable power of language, but also a greater depth of thought than could ordinarily be looked for from a young man of two and twenty. The absolute earnestness of the religious con- viction underlying it is manifest, and it fully deserves to be reproduced here in full. In order, however, not to break our thread, we give it as an Appendix to the present chapter. In October, Keith-Falconer settled again into residence at Cambridge, in his old rooms looking out on the market- ^ It is interesting to note that of these six, two others besides Keith-Falconer devoted themselves to the cause of missions abroad ; Mr. Lefroy becoming one of the members of the Cambridge Univer- sity Mission at Delhi, and Mr. Williams an S. P. G. missionary at Rewari, near Delhi. 46 Student Life at Cambridge, place. He was now definitely working for two examina- tions, both more or less on the same lines, though by no means absolutely identical. These were the examinations for the Tyrwhitt University Hebrew Scholarships, to be held in May 1879, and that for the Semitic Languages Tripos, in February 1880. The former of these, founded in 1818, represented, then as now, the highest distinction to be obtained for Hebrew in Cambridge. Among the scholars who have won it in the past are to be found such names as Bishop Harold Browne of Winchester, the late Bishop Ollivant of Llandaff, Dean Perowne, and the late Dr. r. Field. The direction of the founder was that the examination should turn primarily on the Hebrew Bible, and in a secondary degree on things directly tending to illustrate it. Accordingly, passages are set for translation from any part of the Bible, both in the Hebrew and that which is called Chaldee ; and, moreover, extracts are set from Rabbinic, or in other words, post-Biblical Hebrew, Commentaries on the Scriptures by the great Eabbis and the like ; and also from the Targums, or paraphrases of the various parts of the Bible into the vernacular language of Palestine, such as it was in our Saviour's time, such language as St. Paul used when he addressed and stilled the noisy mob of Jerusalem from the steps of the " Castle." Pieces of Syriac also are occasionally set. In addition to all this, there is "pointing," such as I have already ex- plained, and also pieces of English to be turned into He- brew. These last are often of considerable difficulty. There lies before me now a rendering into Hebrew, made by Keith-Falconer at this time, of Cardinal New- man's beautiful hymn, " Lead, Kindly Light." The hymn is written in strong, idiomatic English, by no means easy to reproduce adequately. Yet the rendering is most happy, and, for a student at the stage of progress at which Keith-Falconer then was, gives warrant of very high promise. Student Life at Cambridge. 47 In this term, he began to read Syriac with Dr. Wright, the well-known learned professor of Arabic at Cambridge, and, in the interests of both examinations, though mainly the Semitic Languages Tripos, he worked at it very regu- larly in 1878 and 1879. Thus occupied with his reading, now directed to a suffi- ciently large field of new work, and with his heart un- doubtedly very much in earnest as to his coming examina- tions, the time passed by till the following May, when the first examination was held, and he was elected a Tyrwhitt scholar. From what I have already said, and from much that will follow, it will be clearly understood that at the times of his busiest occupation, his heart had the fullest room for interest in anything by which G-od might be glorified or man benefited. Still, to prevent endless breakings of continuity, I have felt it undoubtedly best to let the student-life stand as a continuous story. After the examination, he went for a time to London, where his family then were, and his letters are full of his hopes as to the contest just over, and yet more, of his plans for the other yet to come. It may be well perhaps at this stage if I briefly sketch the nature of the Semitic Languages Tripos for which Keith-Falconer was now working. The examination was one of recent foundation, being first held in the year 1878, and was designed to give encouragement to a wider range of Oriental study than was provided by the Tyrwhitt Scholarships. The examination is one lasting for seven days, of which the first two are deVoted to Arabic, then two to Hebrew, then two to Syriac, and on the last day two papers are set on the Comparative G-rammar of these languages, and on their Literary History respectively. At the time when Keith-Falconer entered for this ex- amination, he had not acquired more than a slight know- ledge of Arabic, and did not take up the first two days' 48 Student Life at Cambridge. papers. The remaining five days, however, provided ample work. A knowledge was required of the whole Hebrew Bible, with special reference, as in the case of the earlier Tripos, to certain books ; those for 1880 being Genesis, Euth, Job, and Amos. Rabbinic Hebrew was represented by selected books from such writers as Mai- monides and Rashi, that greatest of all exponents of Scripture in the eyes of an orthodox Jew. Syriac, in which, as well as in Hebrew, composition is set, was represented by selected books of both Old and New Testament in the various ancient Syriac versions of Scripture, Curetonian, Peshito and Harklensian ; by non- Biblical works such as the Doctrine of Addai, parts of Aphraates, and Joshua Stylites; as well as by a paper containing pieces from unspecified books. The professed scholar and an unlearned person can alike feel that all this is a very serious mass of work. Keith-Falconer faced it in his customary methodical way. Writing from London on June 26, he remarks : — " I have revised pretty carefully Isaiah 1-39, and after Isaiah will do Ezekiel (harder than Jeremiah) and a few chapters from Leviticus ; and then will return to Psalms, Proverbs, Minor Prophets, &c. (old ground). I have very nearly finished the Joshua Stylites, the hardest of all the Patristic Syriac. Peshito, &c. will be very plain sailing." Moreover, he read his books not in the undiscriminating way of one to whom everything which is printed must of necessity be true, but with a very clear idea of the value of what he was reading. Thus of a certain well-known text- book, he makes some very just remarks : — " I have read through . Knowledge which every- one possessed long ago is here put in a nice, handy shape. He has however done his best to make everyone believe it is all a new discovery, but there is very little of really new information contained in the book." Student Life at Cambridge. 49 One topic which interested him much, then as in later times, was the relation of the Septuagint to the existing Hebrew text. The Septuagint, venerable as being the oldest of existing translations of the Old Testament, and most valuable in many ways both for the criticism of the text, for exegesis in many difficult passages, and in a very high degree for the light it throws on the Greek of the New Testament, is a book for which extravagant claims have been put forth by some of its advocates. It may suffice here to say that whether or no there are passages where the Grreek translation has preserved a purer text than the Hebrew, still there are beyond all doubt hundreds, literally hundreds, of places where the variation is simply due to a blunder on the part of the translators. When to such a blunder there has been further added a corruption of text due to a transcriber's carelessness or wilfulness, the case is often one which calls for a consider- able degree of ingenuity and scholarship combined to solve it, if indeed it is soluble at all. Points of this kind always excited a keen interest in Keith-Falconer. In a letter written about this time, he says, " Send me some Septuagint nuts to crack if I can." I cannot refrain from giving a specimen of one of these, where I feel convinced that Keith-Falconer's proposed solution, thought out by him in the summer of 1879, is the undoubtedly true solution of a very curious difficulty, as to which numerous theories have been put forth. In Psalm xc. 9, the beautiful wording of the English, *' We bring our years to an end, as it were a tale that is told," is, perhaps, not an absolutely literal, but is certainly a faithful rendering of the Hebrew. The Septuagint, however, gives a curiously different rendering, which is re- presented by the translation as given in the Douay version of the Bible. In this version, the only English version, be it remembered, sanctioned by the Roman church — an Eng- lish translation (so far as the Psalms are concerned) of a 50 Student Life at Cambridge. Latin translation of a bad Greek translation of the Hebrew, the clause runs, '* Our years shall be considered as a spider." Of the various hypotheses put forward by various scholars to explain this curious difference, I have no hesitation in saying that I consider Keith-Falconer's theory, which sees in the passage a translator's blunder complicated by a scribe's further corruption, wilful or otherwise, as un- doubtedly the true one/ In the course of the summer, Keith-Falconer felt the need of being braced up somewhat for his work, and went away for a few weeks to Ramsgate, taking his books with him ; and from thence to Scotland, first on a visit near Loch Luichart in Ross-shire, and then home, until he re- turned to Cambridge for the ensuing term. The examination for which he had long been working was held in February, 1880, and resulted in his being placed in the first class, his work having been distinctly brilliant and of decided promise. It is interesting to re- member that one of the four examiners on that occasion was Mr. E. H. Palmer, at that time Lord Almoner's Pro- ' It may be desirable to put this definitely in a note. The existing Hebrew is njlll tOJ "like a passing thought" (or "passing speech "). The existing Greek is to. err] i)fioJv mq apaxvij kutkiTiov ("I thought upon our years as doth a spider "). It must be noted, however, that the two oldest Mss. of the Septuagint, the Sinaitic and Vatican, agree in reading, not the nominative dpaxvrt, but the accusative apdxvr]v. Keith-Falconer's suggestion was that dpdxvtjv was a scribe's error for dxvriv ("chaff"); and we may compare Psalm xxxix. 11 ("like a moth fretting a garment"), where the Ji^y ("moth") of the original was misread as Ji^p (by both Septuagint and Peshito), and rendered dxvr] in the former, which was corrupted into dpdxvr}. But whence has a%j/ry been derived in the 90th Psalm ? In all probability, the Greek translators misread 1^5 ("like "), for pD3 ("like chaff"). Thus the resulting idea of the Greek verse would be, ' ' I mused uj)on our years as though but chaff. " The IfitXiriov is of course got by only a slight altera- tion from njlH- Student Life at Cambridge. 51 fessor of Arabic, destined at no distant date to die a violent death at the hands of Arabs, members of a race among many tribes of which he had lived as one of themselves. The massacre of the Wady-Sudr does but add another to the list of lives of the highest value v^asted amid the so- called exigencies of party warfare. With the Semitic Languages Tripos, the first portion of Keith-Falconer's student-life found its natural end. He had essayed his weapons, he had now won his spurs. He was henceforth to prove, through such length of life as Grod might vouchsafe him, what use he would seek to make of his exceptional gifts. In subsequent chapters it will be my duty to speak fully as to the form in which Keith-Falconer's further devotion to learning shewed itself. I propose now to look back once again to the beginning of his undergraduate career, and see in what secondary interests he chiefly found de- light. I have already said that his chief, and in some respects his only settled amusement, was bicycling. In this his powers were so exceptional, and his successes so striking and so numerous, that I feel bound to speak of this aspect of his life in some detail. It might otherwise have seemed somewhat surprising that after such a narrative as that of Keith-Falconer's student-life, I should now proceed to dwell, with some fulness of detail, and using of necessity a certain amount of technical phraseology, on a chronicle of athletic successes. Although the great majority of hard reading men are not as a rule famous as athletes, which is very different from saying that they do not freely indulge in vigorous bodily exercise, for this indeed they must do if the brain is to perform its duty properly ; still there have been not a few men who have combined in a striking way the highest academic distinctions with marked success in various forms 52 Student Life at Cambridge. of athletics. Thus Bishop Selwyn, " of Lichfield and New Zealand," who took the degree of Second Classic in 1831, rowed " seven " in the Cambridge boat in the first race with Oxford in 1829. The Hon. Mr. Justice Denman, who was Senior Classic in 1842, rowed stroke of the First Trinity boat when it was head of the river ; and also rowed in 1841 and in 1842 in the race with Oxford. So too Keith-Falconer, while never allowing his bicycling to interfere with his reading, and indeed habitually de- claring that the chief value of it was the help it gave to men in doing their duty so much the better, stood, in this his own favourite form of athletics, quite in the forefront even of those who made it their chief ambition in life to win a race, or " break a record." It would take too large an amount of space to give a full list of the various bicycle races in which he competed, and of the various successes he won, and would serve no really useful purpose to do so ; we propose merely to give suffi- cient details here to enable the general reader to see how remarkable his powers were in this respect. He had begun the practice, as we have seen, at Harrow, and had carried it on while with Mr. Hensley at Hitchin ; and so decidedly had his fame preceded him to Cambridge that he received the unusual compliment of being elected Vice-President of the C.U.Bi.C on June 6, 1874, although he did not come into residence till the following October. On November 26, he rode and won his first race at Cam- bridge, doing ten miles of road in 34 minutes, then con- sidered unusually quick time. His own reference to this race has already been given in a letter to his sister-in-law. He was in December elected Secretary for the ensuing term, and subsequently at intervals held office in the club, of which he was a Life Member. In the following year, he was victorious in a C.U.Bi.C. * Cambridge University Bicycle Club. Student Life at Cambridge. 53 Lent term race from Hatfield to Cambridge, a distance of 42 miles ; and on May 10, lie won the race for the Univer- sity against Oxford, the course being from St. Albans to Oxford, a distance of 50 miles. In the April of the following year, 1876, he won the Amateur-Championship Four-miles race at Lillie Bridge, in what was then the fastest time on record ; and on May 15 following, he won the C.U.Bi.C. Fifty-miles trial race, at Fenner's ground, at Cambridge, in 3 hours, 20 minutes, 37 seconds. On May 1, 1877, he was elected President of the London Bicycle Club, and to this office he was annually re-elected for nine years, retaining it until his resignation of office at the annual dinner of the Club, on October 29, 1886, shortly before he left England for the last time. In the C.U.Bi.C. races this term (May 23, 24), he was successful in the Two-miles, Ten-miles and Twenty-five- miles races, accomplishing the last-named distance in 1 hour, 30 minutes, 25 seconds. He was very successful too in the Inter-University races held at Oxford, when he rode the Two-miles race in 6 minutes 1 second (the first mile having been done in 3 minutes) and the Ten-miles in 32 minutes 25 seconds, all of which were then the best ama- teur times on record. The E-ev. W. d'A. Crofton, of Worcester College, for- merly captain of the O.U.Bi.C, who rode for Oxford in the Inter-University races on each of the occasions when Keith- Falconer rode for Cambridge, tells me that in 1877, at the start for the Two-miles race Keith-Falconer's step broke, racing bicycles being in those days provided with steps. When the starter gave the warning, '* Are you ready ? " Keith-Falconer's voice was heard saying, " No, I'm not ready, I want a chair." A chair was brought and he duly mounted, as calm and unruffled as if nothing had happened at so critical a time. In May 11, 1878, he competed successfully, at Stamford 54 Student Life at Cambridge. Bridge, near Fulham, in the Two-miles race of the National Cyclists' Union, for the title of " Short-distance Champion: " but at a race held at Cambridge, in the October of that year, will be remembered as one of his best performances. This was one of Five-miles between amateurs and pro- fessionals, and ultimately resolved into a contest between Keith-Falconer and John Keen, the then professional champion, in which the former was victorious by five yards. I annex an amusing account of this race from a letter addressed by Keith-Falconer to Mr. Isaac Pitman, the veteran inventor of phonography, in reply to a letter of the latter, urging him to give up smoking. After thanking him for a subscription which he had sent to the Barnwell Mission, he proceeds : — " As for smoking, I think that the following will gratify you. Early in the year I consented to meet John Keen, the professional champion of the world, in a five-mile bicycle race on our ground at Cambridge on Oct. 23. But I forgot all about my engagement till I was accidentally reminded of it nine days before it was to come off. " I immediately began to make my preparations and to train hard. The first great thing to be done was to knock off smoking, which I did. Next, to rise early in the morning, and breathe the fresh air before breakfast, which I did ; next to go to bed not later than 10, which I did ; next to eat wholesome food and not too much meat or pastry, which I did ; and finally, to take plenty of gentle exercise in the open air, which I did. " What was the result ? I met Keen on Wednesday last, the 23rd Oct., and amidst the most deafening applause, or rather yells of delight, this David slew the great Goliath : to speak in plain language I defeated Keen by about 5 yards. " The time was by far the fastest on record. Student Life at Cambridge. 55 mins. sees. The 1st mile was done in 2 . 59 2nd >> >> 3 . , 1 3rd 3 . 7 4th >> >> 3 , . 12 5th Total tir 2 . 52* Qel5 •111 " The last lap, that is, the last circuit, measuring 440 yards, we did in 39 seconds, that is more than 11 yards per second. " The excitement was something indescribable. Such a neck and neck race was never heard of. The pace for the last mile was terrific, as the time shews ; and when it was over I felt as fit and comfortable as ever I felt in my life. And even when the race was going on, I thought actually that we were going slowly and that the time would be bad, and the reason was, I was in such beautiful condition. I did not perspire or ' blow ' from beginning to end. The people here are enchanted about it ; so that it is gratifying to me to think that, notwithstanding my other work and other business, I can yet beat, with positive comfort and ease, the fastest rider in the world. . . . " I am bound to say that smoking is bad, bad for the wind and general condition. . . ." In May 1879, races were again ridden between amateurs and professionals on the ground of the University Club at Cambridge. On May 21, he met his old adversary John Keen in a Two-miles race, defeating him by 3 inches ! The time in this was 5 minutes 36|- seconds ; and this, I under- stand, was not beaten for several years. On Saturday, May 24, he won the Twenty-miles race by 16 yards, the time being 1 hour, 4 minutes, 15| seconds, which at that time was the best on record. An eye-witness, describing the scene, and referring to a time when all Keith- Falconer's competitors had dropped out save one, says that he " was contented with riding just behind until 200 yards from home, when, with a spurt 56 Stitdcnt Life at Camhridge. which the' Cantabs were expecting, but which simply astonished all others, he came right away and won as he liked." ^ From the same source I extract the following anecdote, which certainly bears sufficient internal marks of genuineness : — " On the day of the 20-miles race, it was stated that he was studying hard all the morning, and forgot that he had to race ; and it was not until all the other competitors were at the starting-post, ready to start, that he rushed into the dressing-room, changed his clothes as quickly as possible and mounted for the race. He rode several miles before he recovered his breath." ^ It may most fairly be added here that at the time of these races, a week had barely elapsed since Keith-Falconer had been engaged in a heavy examination, of which we have already spoken, that for the Tyrwhitt Scholarship. Six hours* examination work jper diem for four consecutive days forms by no means a good preliminary training for a keen physical contest. Although it is beyond the period covered in the earlier part of the present chapter, it will be desirable to include here, as probably his last race, or at any rate the last of any importance, the 50-miles Bicycle Union Amateur Championship race, at the Crystal Palace, on July 29, 1882. This was won by Keith-Falconer, who beat by nearly seven minutes all previous records, the time being 2 hours, 43 minutes, 58|- seconds. An account of an in- teresting ride the whole length of the island, made by Keith-Falconer in that year, will be given at length in its proper chronological place. Another great interest, as we have seen, was shorthand. This was undoubtedly a recreation in one sense, but it certainly was constantly turned to very practical account. Great as was his skill in it, he had never received any in- ^ London Bicycle Club Gazette for May 27, 1879. * Ibid. Student Life at Cambridge. 57 struction, but had simply taught himself the art at Harrow, as is mentioned by Mr. Arthur Watson. Mr. Isaac Pitman, -who I sincerely trust will pardon me for changing " the reformed English spelling " of his letter to that in current use, says in a letter : — " He learnt shorthand simply by reading the instruction books, and was a good wi-iter in May, 1874, when I first made his acquaintance during a three weeks' stay at Bournemouth. He took a deep interest in phonography, wrote it swiftly and accurately, and had a thorough know- ledge of the minutest part of the system ; and that not merely as a stenographer, but as a judge of its value as a part of a harmonious whole. He must have learnt it some years before this date, but I do not know how many." When I first knew him in 1875, I was astonished at the ease with which he could keep up with a rapid speaker, and the equal ease with which he could read his MS. a considerable time after. To a beginner in the art, he was not only willing, but positively wishful to be of use. His constant advice to those seeking to learn, used to be, "JVEind you practise every day, and don't be in a hurry to write quickly." A vast quantity of note-books on his work were filled with this writing, and his correspondence with Mr. Pitman was entirely in phonography. Student, athlete, phonographer, — in all three aspects. Ion Keith-Falconer took a foremost position among experts in three very different lines ; in all three, his excellence was avowed and undoubted. Yet there was something more, something beyond all this power and skill of brain and muscle, — a heart which the love of Christ constrained to work for Him, a heart filled with the old faith, fervent still after all the turmoil of a great public school, and the more subtle temptations of a great University, as when in childhood he learnt its first rudiments by his mother's knee. 58 Appendix. Broadlands Conference. The two principal works, but by no means the only ones, in which he was engaged, during and after his under- graduate career, in Cambridge and in London, will form the subject of the following chapter. APPENDIX. See above, p. 51. BROADLANDS CONFERENCE, 1878. For the information of those who were not privileged to be present at the Broadlands Conference of 1878, we preface our report by an introduction, in which we hope that the salient points of the Conference, its object, scope, and results, are fairly brought out. The subject for considera- tion was — Pentecostal Blessing, or the Promised ot^TPOURiNG of the Holy Spirit. (1) The promises of which the realization may now be expected. (2) The conditions that assist, and the hindrances that impede, the reception of the promised blessings. (3) The use to be made of the gifts of the Spirit. In the very early days of Christianity, the believer could not do otherwise than keep separate from the world, for the world would have nothing to do with him. He was shunned, maligned, and persecuted. On the other hand, for this very reason, his faith was bright and clear, and he expected very shortly the second coming of Christ. He was indeed a burning and a shining light in this dark world. But after a time when men began to recognize the splendid morality of the Gospel, and when the false charges Appendix. Broadlands Conference, 59 of Atheism, inhumanity, and vicious practices, which were commonly circulated, began to be disbelieved, certain advances were made by the State and the world. Philo- sophers began to choose and to pick from the Christian system what they thought beautiful or true, and to intro- duce the same into their own systems ; and the State com- menced to look on the new religion with a certain amount of distant toleration, and, in time, to assume towards it an attitude even of respect. On the other hand the Church was gradually losing some of its first love, and its old ardour was cooling. The Lord delayed His coming. Heresies began to spring up, grievous wolves entered the Church of Grod in sheep's clothing and tore the flock. The evil, we cannot help thinking, was consummated when Constantino, early in the fourth century, laid his diseased hand on the Church, and united it with the State. We do not express any decided opinion on the vexed question of Church and State. It would be out of place here to attempt to decide whether the abstract theory of union of the Church with the State is warranted by the Bible. We are deahng with the practical question, viz., How has that union affected the attitude of Christians towards the world ? The mass of people now flocked in, were baptized, and professed Christianity. It was now the religion of Eome, and so the religion of the whole civilized world. It is true that under Julian, relapse to heathenism was attempted ; but the power of the old religions of G-reece and Rome was gone for ever, and the attempt was all in vain. Christianity was henceforth, to speak in a general way, the religion of the civiHzed world. This was glorious in one way, and when we contemplate the wonderful progress which Chris- tianity had by this time made, and remember the despised Nazarene, and all His low estate when here below, we are bound to exclaim, " This is the Lord's doing, and it is marvellous in our eyes " (Matt. xxi. 42). But still one bad result seems to have followed. The Church and the world became more than ever united, and the solemn command to come out from among them and to be separate, more than ever difficult of performance. And passing over the long expanse of centuries, which in- tervened between then and now, we see other influences at 60 Appendix, Broadlands Conference, work, wliicli render this our separation from the world increasingly difficult. The conditions of life in the present age are entirely unfavourable to any kind of seclusion. The multifarious interests of this toiling, rushing, fevered day, have so banded men together, and the vast increase in railways and telegraphs, and all other means of com- munication, have rendered the exchange of thoughts, the " collision of mind with mind," and the social intercourse of individuals, so easy, that a certain amount of mutual advance, of interchange of thought and feeling, is now demanded where none was expected before. Yet the com- mand is plain — " Come out from among them, and be ye separate." But a consideration of the evil will suggest the remedy, and a contemplation of the diffi.culty will point to the solution. It is evidently quite imi^ossible for the Church to be absolutely separate from the world in this sense, that the believer is to be a marked man, shunned and ousted by all. Civilization has thrown a garb of seem- ing friendship over all, and the "white ashes of social hypocrisy " choke anything like open hostilities. Nor is it the Lord's will that the believer should be entirely shut out from the world, for if the leaven never come into con- tact with the meal, how and when will the whole be leavened? The difficulty is at once recognized and solved by our Lord when He says, " I pray not that thou shouldest take them out of the world, but that thou shouldest keep them from the evil. They are not of the world, even as I am not of the world" (John xvii. 16, 16). " In the world, but not of it," is to be our motto. Still though we know what the mind of the Lord is with respect to this, the practical difficulty remains, how to maintain this separation, and how, while discharging those manifold duties of life in which we are necessarily brought into contact with others, yet to maintain our purity, nor ever to touch the unclean thing. We cannot do it, except we be endued with power from on high. And to this end, a gracious provision has been made for us. The Shepherd truly is no more in bodily presence with the flock, and the wolves abound ; but the sheep are not defenceless. The Comforter has been given to them. In other words, it is by the mighty power of the Holy Grhost working in us, with us, and through us. Appendix. Broadlands Conference. 61 that we are to overcome the world, to resist its allurements, and to hurl back its every encroachment. And here the question naturally suggests itself: How is it then, that though the Holy G-host has been imparted to the believer, he is yet liable to danger from sin and the world ? (not to speak of danger from within). The answer is, that Chris- tianity never did, '■ and never will, do away with human responsibility. We are indeed in a state of probation. We have a warfare to fight, and how are we straitened till it be accomplished! The Holy G-host hath in very truth been given to us, but (humanly speaking), its manifesta- tion depends on ourselves. We are responsible for its manifestation. " Stir up the gift of God that is in thee." This is the command ; and the Conference spent much of its time in considering what conditions assisted, and what hindrances impeded, this manifestation. The subject seems to us a very important one, for the simple reason that in proportion as Christians live in the power of the Spirit, in that proportion will their influence be felt in the world that surrounds them. When spirituality is at a low ebb, then the believer is weak, and dares not come into contact with the world, lest he be drawn away and enticed ; and if he does, woe to him. And it seems to us that the reason why infidelity, scepticism, heresy, and schism are so alarm- ingly on the increase in our day, is that the only light which illumines the world's darkness is so faint and dim. " Ye are the light of the world " (Matt. v. 14). The truth of Christianity may be proved by the most incontestable evidence, internal and external, but unless this evidence be mightily confirmed by the consistent walk, and the holy conversation of its professors, the world will never be con- vinced. Precept is well, but without example 'tis a mockery. Preaching is good, but practising is a sine qua non. ** Christian character is a more magnificent apology for the claims of Jesus, than all Christian preaching and talk- ing e'er can be." We may now enumerate some of the principal conditions of, and hindrances to, the manifestation of the . Spirit within us, which were dwelt on at the Con- ference. CHAPTER IV. EVANGELISTIC WORK : BARNWELL AND MILE-END. "Heart and soul A very man, tender, and true, and strong, And pitiful. " Morris. To Cambridge men of a quarter of a century ago, the name of Barnwell bore an ugly sound. It was that part of the town to which seemed to gravitate a mass of various ills ; a large, poor, rapidly growing suburb, whose name seemed synonymous with squalor and vice. Yet this state of things was one which had only risen comparatively recently ; old men who have not long passed away remembered a very different Barnwell. The late Professor Sedgwick, who died in 1873, once described to the present writer a ride he had taken when a young man from Trinity College to Newmarket, in which he would of necessity pass through Barnwell. The long street which is still called Jesus Lane, from the College which has stood near it for four hundred years, was then really a lane. Beyond the College, where now is a continuous street of houses for a mile and a half, came a distinct break with green fields and a plantation of trees, followed by a small straggling village, with a very pretty, though somewhat dilapidated little church, which once had been the church of Barnwell Abbey. Half a mile further on, was a yet smaller chapel, with some exquisite Norman work, which was intended for the use of lepers, Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. 63 who might not come to the service with the rest of the congregation. Then came the open moor all the way to Newmarket. This small village was Barnwell, and was the inhabited part of the large parish of St. Andrew the Less. Close to this was the river Cam, which formed the northern boundary of the parish. It may be not without interest to call attention to the fact that, in the space between the old Church and the lepers* chapel and the river, there has been regularly kept each returning September for centuries,^ a fair, popu- larly known as Stourbridge Fair, once one of the most important business meetings in England, I had almost said in Europe ; and even in the last century a very busy scene of real trafficking,^ now a gathering that might very well be done away with. Various causes co-operated vastly to increase the popu- lation of this part of Cambridge, not only absolutely, but also relatively to the rest of the town. Among the fore- most of these causes is doubtless to be placed the railway. The quiet University town, in the heart of a thinly -peopled agricultural district, was quickened into a noisier and more stirring life by the advent of the railway, and four competing lines now meet in Cambridge. Both the con- struction and working of these led to a large influx of men of the working class. Again, the discovery of great beds of fossils, known as coprolites, and rich in chemical con- stituents tending to the fertilization of land, brought also large numbers of navvies, who lodged in Barnwell and in many cases permanently settled there. The steadily increasing numbers of the University also ^ Probably instituted by a charter of King John in 1211 A.D. (Cooper's Annals of Cambridge i. 34.) 2 For an interesting account of the fair as conducted in the last century, see Cooper, iv. 318 sqq. ; Gunning, Reminiscences ii. 148 sqq. ed. 2. 64 Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-JEnd. brought about a corresponding increase in the number not only of College servants, but of irregular hangers-on, men ready to make themselves useful in connexion with the various amusements of the undergraduates. Whatever the various causes may have been, an immense rate of increase in the parish is most marked. Thus in 1801, the population of the parish of St. Andrew the Less, or, as it was then called, St, Andrew in Barnwell, was 252 ; the number of inhabited houses in the parish being 79. The population of the whole town of Cambridge in that year was 10,087. In 1881, the population of the parish was 21,078, that of the whole of Cambridge being 35,363. The number of the inhabited houses in the parish had now risen to 4,342. I subjoin in a note the population of the parish and of the whole town at each of the censuses since the beginning of the century, to shew how continuous and how rapid has been the growth.^ It is true that, as the town of Cambridge is at present constituted, the popular name of Barnwell is not applied to the whole of the huge parish. It denotes, however, a large part of it, and pre-eminently of the poorer districts. It is thus abundantly clear that the provision adequate for the spiritual needs of the small village would soon be found insufficient for so rapidly growing a population. For some time apparently things were allowed to drift, with merely sporadic efforts to give help. The beginning of a more systematic attempt to cope with the needs of the Parish. Town. 1 1801 252 10,087 1811 411 11,108 1821 2,211 14,142 1831 6,651 20,917 1841 9,486 24,453 1851 11,776 27,815 1861 11,848 26,361 1871 15,958 30,078 1881 21,078 35,363 Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. 65 case was the establishment by a party of undergraduates, in the year 1825, of a Sunday School, which speedily assumed large proportions ; and which still, under its original name of the Jesus Lane Sunday School (though it is many years since it left its first abode which gave it its name), exercises a most important influence for good. This, though not strictly a parochial agency, was dis- tinctly designed for the benefit of Barnwell ; and in 1839, largely through the instrumentality of the Eev. C. Perry, afterwards first Bishop of Melbourne, a large Church was opened in the parish under the name of Christ's Church. Since that time other Churches have been built, and several chapels of various dissenting bodies testify to much hearty zeal for the furtherance of the Grospel. In the present generation great improvements have taken place in the character of the parish, due, under Grod's blessing, to a succession of earnest, hard-working Vicars, and to no one more largely than to the late Rev. J. H. Titcomb, afterwards Bishop of Rangoon, and the Rev. E. T. Leeke, now Chancellor of Lincoln. No one who remembers Barnwell twenty -five years ago can fail to realize an immense improvement. Still the labourers were very few for so great a mass of people, mostly poor and ignorant, including even yet a large number of persons following vicious courses ; and while the Gospel teaching of a band of devoted men was gradually leavening the mass, yet while the workers were slowly gaining on the task which faced them, hundreds were dying. It was this state of things which led to the special effort of which I have now to speak. On the high road through Barnwell, not far from Christ Church, stood a rather disrej^utable-looking theatre, with the high-sounding name of the Theatre Royal, Barnwell. This was not so valuable a property as it might etherwise F 66 Evangelistic Work: Barnwell and Mile- End. have been, for by immemorial law, no jjlays could be per- formed in Cambridge without the permission of the Vice- Chancellor ; and this permission was never conceded except in vacation time, when the great mass of under- graduates have left Cambridge. In May, 1875, in anticipation of a visit of Mr. D. L. Moody to Cambridge, a few gentlemen, both members of the University and townsmen, decided to hire the theatre, then of necessity closed, for a month, and hold evange- listic services in it, to break the ground, as it were, for his visit. Although Mr. Moody was prevented from paying his visit at that time, the theatre was taken notwith- standing ; and a vigorous effort was made to reach that still large element of the population which never by any chance went to any place of worship whatsoever, to all intents and purposes as heathen as if the name of Christ had never been proclaimed in England. With all this, Keith-Falconer associated himself most heartily. Still, it must be noticed, his interest, however great, co-existed with his studies, yet did not interfere with them. He fully recognized, then and subsequently, a truth which not all young men when seeking to be of use to others do sufficiently realize, the truth namely that for a time duties which may seem the highest, and in one sense certainly are such, ought to be subordinated to others which seem to them less important. Yet there can be no doubt that to an undergraduate living in a Univer- sity, and therefore presumably a student, the highest duty of all is for the time his study. The legitimate claims of that being satisfied, let him be useful in every possible way so far as his opportunities permit. To confine ourselves to Cambridge men alone ; such names as Henry Martyn, Bishop Selwyn, and Bishop Mackenzie, shew how noble may be the outcome in the service of God of an undergraduate career primarily de- voted to steady University work. Such too was Keith- Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. 67 Falconer ; he never neglected his simple everyday duty, to attend to one apparently higher, yet not so distinctly and directly assigned him as his proper work. When the month for which the Theatre had been hired came to an end, the building reverted to its ordinary con- dition for a time. So great, however, had been the success attending the services in the Theatre, that it was deter- mined to carry on the same kind of work elsewhere in Barnwell, and for about three years and a half mission services went on at a Ragged School in New Street. All this time, Keith-Falconer was a steady and consis- tent helper of the mission, by his purse, by his personal co-operation, and we may well feel sure by his prayers. An old friend of his has remarked that in his active share in evangelistic work may probably be found the explana- tion of the fact that Keith-Falconer was so little assailed by speculative doubts as to the Faith. For a mind so keen and so inquiring as his was, to have been so free from such attacks, is a thing which must strike one as remarkable in an age like ours. On one occasion, I think in 1876, I accompanied Keith- Falconer to a meeting at the Ragged School. The gather- ing of people, of whom there were several hundreds, dis- played a remarkable contrast to an ordinary Christian con- gregation. They represented as a whole a stratum de- cidedly below that of the decent working man of the poorer sort. Many were ragged, most were dirty and un- kempt, and before the service began, many of them be- haved most outrageously. Yet when the service began, I rejoice to say, the conduct was orderly enough ; evidently many, while coming in the first instance simply from curiosity, bore in their way a friendly feeling enough for their visitors. Yet it may be noted, as shewing the stratum from which the bulk was drawn, that on one of the speakers remarking, " A great many of you, I know, have been, and I fear some are still, thieves ! " he was greeted, in tones 68 Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. which shewed that no offence had been taken, with ready cries of, " Yes, Sir." It was at this meeting that I heard Keith-Falconer speak in public for the first time, and on the somewhat unusual subject of Zelophehad's daughters. What had specially led to this topic I forget, but he worked up in a very practical way the ideas suggested by the petition of these maidens, not afraid to speak out boldly and ask for the object of their need. ' Have faith to draw near to God, and ask for help just as you feel the needs of your own soul, be they what they may,' was the thought throughout. His speech was evidently that of one who had thought over carefully what he was going to say, and meant most deeply and sincerely every word he said. One felt that he would grow in time to become a weighty and effective speaker, though not what would popularly be called a brilliant one; never to the last did he seek after the ornate eloquence of the rhetorician. The work went on in this quiet, unpretentious way till the autumn of 1878, when it became known that the owner of the Theatre was about to sell it by aiiction ; and at a meeting of the band of workers it was resolved to buy it, if it could be got at a price not exceeding ^£1,200. After this meeting Keith-Falconer, feeling that the building was sure to fetch a decidedly higher sum, at last prevailed upon his colleagues to increase their bid to ^1,650 ; but to their great disappointment, the bidding rose to ^1,875, at which price it became the property of the late Mr. Sayle. This gentleman, however, on hearing the above facts, consented with great generosity to give up the Theatre to the Mission workers, for the price they had been willing to give for it, the extra =£225 being viewed as a subscription undertaken by Mr. Sayle and his friends. Even as it was, a considerable sum had to be provided, and a glance at the subscription list shews that more than half was raised out of Cambridge. This was mainly due Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. 69 to the untiring advocacy of Keith- Falconer, who not only contributed largely, but also used his utmost efforts with his friends ; his father. Lord Kintore, and his future father- in-law, Mr. Bevan, each subscribing =£100, the former ulti- mately giving a second like sum. The requisite amount was rapidly raised, and, after the necessary cleaning and repairing of the building, it was formally opened for its new purpose as a mission-hall (though the old name of Theatre was still retained) on Sunday, November 17, when very large audiences were assembled. On the Monday evening the house was crowded, and on the Tuesday, when there was a social gathering for tea, followed by a public meeting, every available seat in the Theatre, from the pit to the gallery, was filled.^ On the stage were about 300 persons, and the corridors were blocked by an eager crowd. After more than 600 persons had partaken of tea, a public meeting was held. The chair was taken by Mr. W. R. Mowll of Corpus Christi College, with whom were gathered the various gentlemen, who, with the subject of our present memoir, had striven manfully at the work ; Mr. H. D. Champney, also of Corpus, Mr. Yawser, Mr. Flitton, and others. Besides these, other friends were present from a distance, among whom were the Eev. W. Hay Aitken, and Mr. F. N. Charrington, each of whom gave a very effective address. Keith-Falconer also spoke on this occasion. The speech was so characteristic of the man, so peculiarly appropriate to the occasion, and was marked by such sterling common sense, that I feel fully justified in giving it nearly in full, as reported in a local paper : — ** I am not given to much speaking. But this occasion is so extraordinary, and the sight before my eyes so ex- hilarating and inspiriting, that if I were a stone I should ^ The Theatre can readily hold 1000 people. 70 Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. be forced to throw in my note of praise and thanksgiving with the rest. What a marvellous transformation this place has undergone ! Well may we exclaim, ' Look on this picture, and on that.' Our theatrical friends are familiar with transformation scenes, but they have got a novel one to-night, and I hope they have all come to look at it. And who can deny that it has been a trans- formation from bad to good ? It is all very well for the supporters of the theatre (especially when they have a pecuniary interest in the popularity of the drama) to say that theatre- going is educating and elevating and en- nobling. I will only remark that if this place has been the means of educating, elevating, and ennobling a fallen humanity, in Barnwell at least, it has not got on with its work particularly fast, and the results do not exactly stare one in the face, and the sooner a more efficient system comes into play the better. There is one point about this transformation scene worthy of notice, and that is that the place is open, free to all. And this is like the Grospel of the great God. It cost so much, and the sum to be, paid was so vast, that we poor sinners, slave and struggle hard as we might, could not possibly make up the sum, and so we have been let off altogether, for the Saviour of the world has paid it for us. Now our prayer to God is that this transformation scene may be the earnest and precursor of many a transformation scene in the hearts and lives of men and women now careless and without God. I hear that an actor, quite unworthy of being named, who was perform- ing here in the summer, on his benefit night, made an ora- tion to an admiring audience, and told them in effect, that the poor players, who had so long striven by their elevating and instructive performances to raise the tone and purify the morals of Barnwell, were at length to be supplanted by a company of religious hypocrites. * Acting,' he said, ' has not ceased in this place : there will be acting still.' His opinion apparently was that religion is another name for hypocrisy. But he spoke the truth unwittingly. We trust that there will be some grand acting in connection with this place. It requires no prophetic eye to see the time when men and women, now sunk low in sin and vice, will be con- strained by the mighty power of a Saviour's love and the Evangelistic Work: Barnwell and Mile- End. 71 solemnities of a coming eternity proclaimed from this place, to act the magnificent part of the champions of Grod, and the followers of Christ. For, remember, this life of ours may be viewed as a great drama. The Grod that made us has assigned to each his part, and written it in letters so plain and patent that he who runs may read. And soon the curtain must fall, and the players must depart to return no more. It is a play once acted, and only once. It has no rehearsals, and one false step can never be made right, and one slip of the tongue can never be recalled. A numberless audience watches the performance, and, with intense interest, witnesses the characters as they develop, and the plot as it thickens. Now there be two prompters on this stage. The evil one stands on this side and the Holy Ghost broods over us on the other. Many there are who, casting aside with the folly of contempt or the blind- ness of indifference the j)art that G-od has bid them play, speak and act that which is prompted by the evil one, ' and live lives deservedly wretched, because they make them de- liberately base.' But there are others who, taking heed to the commands of God and to the promptings of the Holy Ghost, live lives of splendid morality and of glorious wit- nessing to the despised Nazarene. These are the salt of the earth, and to these doth England owe her greatness, and in proportion as these diminish, in that exact propor- tion will our nation sink among the nations of the earth. To whom, then, will ye hearken ? To the Spirit of truth, or to the spirit of lies ? Will you be one of those to whom, in the words of the great preacher, ' Life is a mere collec- tion of fragments, whose first volume is a noisy and obscene jest-book, and whose last is a grim tragedy or a despicable farce ? ' or, will you be numbered with those to whom ' Life, however small the stage, is a regal drama played out before the eyes of God and men ? ' There be some here who have come out of idle curiosity and the love of novelty — would that you were curious enough to inquire into the things of God, and to taste and see that the Lord is good ; would that you were sufficiently fond of novelty to try the new life, which is as different from the old one as light is from darkness. God, in mercy, turn the idle curiosity into earnest seeking, and the love of novelty into a longing for 72 Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. a new life, and then you will be able from your own exjDerience to testify that the new act is better than the old ; for the old was selfish and brought you misery, but the new act is Christ-like and brings joy unspeakable and full of glory." Since that day, nine years ago, the Barnwell Mission has done a great amount of work for good ; and, I understand, the Theatre has never been closed for a single Sunday throughout the whole of that time. Though Keith-Falconer frequently attended the meetings, he gave but few ad- dresses, and, unfortunately, none of them were reported. He was always most cordially welcomed, and his zeal for the furtherance of the work continued quite unabated. Some further examples of this will be given in a later part of our story ; we must now shift the scene from Cam- bridge to the East End of London with its thronging myriads. In the widest part of the Mile-End Eoad, that great artery leading from the heart of London eastwards, the at- tention of the passer-by is irresistibly caught by a very large, imposing building, of great breadth and commanding height, over the central door of which is the name, under a large clock, ' G-reat Assembly Hall.' This building is the final outcome of the resolve, gra- dually developing during many years, of Mr. F. N. Char- rington, to bring the Grospel and every good subsidiary in- fluence home to the masses around. In this noble scheme of usefulness, Keith-Falconer was associated nearly from the first, as a most devoted ally of Mr. Charrington, and as a most munificent supporter. The work was one which irresistibly appealed to him. The needs, spiritual and other, of the East End of London were, and are, so great as to force attention from the most casual observer: the attempt j^roceeded throughout uni- formly on what he most justly felt should be the true Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. 73 principle of civilizing by Christianizing, not with the idea that the religious life will come more readily when the material conditions of life are improved. There will, it is true, often be great material need. In such cases the duty of a teacher of the Gospel is clear. He will not follow so suicidal a policy, deserving to fail as it surely will, as to offer Christian teaching to men and women in bodily need, without making any effort to meet those needs. But, on the other hand, he will not insist on first civilizing in every possible way, save by religion, the masses of the lowest class, by art, by general education and the like, and then, and only then, allow religion, if needs be, to be brought to bear. Let the evangelist come forward with the Gospel in one hand and his material appliances, be they what they may, in the other ; then will the benefits from each, on soul and body, act and react on one another, till many a changed man and woman will by their lives testify to the noble perfectness of the plan. Although the growth of the Mission is primarily, under God's blessing, to be referred to the self -devoted efforts of Mr. Charrington, still so deep was Keith-Falconer's in- terest in it, and so weighty and so loyal was the support which he gave, that it becomes the clear duty of the present writer to speak in some detail of the scheme.^ The Mission whose central rallying point is the Great Assembly Hall bears the name of the Tower Hamlets Mission. This name. Tower Hamlets, seems strangely suggestive of something very different from the rather grim reality. It shews, however, what the district ori- ginally was, " a cluster of villages, starting from the Tower of London, and extending along the Eiver Thames for some miles." Gradually, as time went on, the intervening * The matter of the subsequent pages is largely drawn from Keith-Falconer's own pamphlet, A Plea for the Tower Hamlets Mission, undated, but published in 1882. 74 Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. spaces were built over, until fields and country-lanes and green liedge-rows had given place to interminable streets ; and what were once beautiful rural spots have become the principal part of the densely peopled East End of London, now numbering more than one million souls. In the centre of this, the largest mass of working people in the world, the work of the Tower Hamlets Mission is carried on. Keith-Falconer had first made the acquaintance of Mr. Charrington, who was six years his senior, when, in or about 1871, the latter was on a walking-tour in Aberdeen- shire, and was invited to Keith Hall by the late Lord Kintore. From that time forward each was to the other a most valued and trusted friend. In later years, when Lord Kintore had passed to his rest (July, 1880), Keith- Falconer writes to Mr. E. H. Kerwin, the Secretary of the Mission ; " It is pleasant to me to reflect that it was my father who first introduced me to Charrington and his work, and that he so cordially supported the Tower Ham- lets Mission. I hope that his sudden departure may be the means of blessing to the careless, perhaps to some who heard him speak in the Assembly Hall." In the pamphlet above referred to, Keith-Falconer tells the interesting story of the way in which the Mission was begun. Mr. Charrington was " the eldest son of the late Mr. F. Charrington, a partner in the well-known firm of Charrington, Head and Co. The large brewery is per- haps the most striking feature in the Mile-End Road. Its remarkable ladder is seen against the sky for a long distance, and its many chimneys and handsome frontage must catch every stranger's eye." In the year 1869, Mr. Charrington was travelling with a friend in the South of France. His friend had pressed upon him the truth that this life was meant to be some- thing more than one of pleasure and living to oneself alone, however innocently ; and at parting prevailed upon Evangelistic Work: Barnwell and Mile-End, 75 him to read the third chapter of St. John's Gospel. While doing this, the light of Grod broke in upon the reader, and he determined to devote himself henceforward to the ser- vice of God and the teaching of His Gospel. Shortly after this, a further thought came to Mr. Char- rington, which resulted in a very striking act of sac^rifice on his part. He told the story himself in his speech at the opening of the Great Hall last year.^ He was in the habit of going, evening by evening, to a little mission- hall, and had to pass a certain beer-shop, called the " Rising Sun," where night after night he saw wretched women waiting outside for their husbands within. Over the beer-shop was the name of Charrington, Head and Co., and it occurred to him that whatever good he was doing with one hand, he was undoing and more than un- doing with the other. He determined therefore resolutely that he would have nothing further to do with the drink traffic. On his father's death, a few years after, he had the alternative allowed him either of taking as eldest son his due share of the lucrative business, or of being content simply with a younger brother's portion. Needless to say, he chose the latter. The first eiforts of the young missionary were in a night-school, under the direction of the Rev. Joseph Bardsley, then Rector of Stepney. Till the accommoda- tion proved too small, he, with two or three others, worked in a hayloft over a stable, lighted by two or three small paraffin lamps hung up on the rafters, and tried to do his best with some ragged little boys. Soon the little hayloft grew too small, and a school- room had to be taken; and gradually Mr. Charrington and his friends were led on to further work among lads and started a Boys' Home. One of the cases which led to this was the following : — » Feb. 4, 1886. 76 Evangelistic Work: Barnio ell and Mile- End. " At the close of one of the meetings, a little boj was found sobbing. With some difficulty he was induced to tell his tale. It was simple. His widowed mother, his sisters, and he, all lived in one room. Everything had been sold to buy bread except two white mice, the boy's pets. Through all their poverty, they had kept these white mice ; but at last they too must go ! With the pro- ceeds he bought street songs, which he retailed on the ' waste,' and so obtained the means of getting more bread for his mother and sisters. Now they were completely destitute. The boy was accompanied home. Home ! It was a wretched attic, in one of the most dilapidated houses. It was a wretchedly cold and dismal day. In the broken- down grate the dead embers of yesterday's handful of firing remained. On the table, in a piece of newspaper, were a few crumbs. The air was close and the smell insupportable. ' My good woman,' said Mr. Charring- ton, ' why don't you open the window ? ' ' Oh ! ' she re- plied, ' you would not say that if you had had nothing to eat, and had no tire to warm you.' The family was relieved." Among the good results of this new effort, it may be mentioned that a gang of juvenile thieves, known to the police as the Mile-End gang, was broken up ; several of its members, including its leader, having been thoroughly influenced for good. Many of the lads were taken out of their evil surrounding and sent to Yarmouth, where they were employed on the fishing smacks. The next stage was the opening of what was known as the East-End Conference Hall, on November 1, 1872. This was a building in Carlton Square, capable of seating 600 persons, in which the Grospel was preached for some years with remarkable success. The reason why it was left, or rather, was given up to another body of workers, who still are doing good work in it, was, as was so often the case in connexion with this mission, that it was be- coming too small for the needs of the work. Accordingly, a move was made to Mile-End Road, at the Evangelistic Work: Barnwell and Mile-End. 77 comer of White-Horse Lane. Here there was a large piece of ground which for years had been used by travel- ling showmen with waxworks, merry-go-rounds, theatres and so forth. Naturally, the respectable inhabitants and the police alike concurred in rejoicing at the demolition of dilapidated buildings which had afforded such facilities to persons of the lowest character. On this land a tent was erected, in which services were held every night for two whole summers. A large number of the speakers were soldiers of the G-uards, who came all the way from the West-End barracks, many of them walking the whole way there and back, a distance of ten miles, in order to preach the Gospel. At last a yet better site was obtained at the broadest part of the Mile-End Road, and that no time might be lost, a large tent was at once set up, and was opened on May 21, 1876. It was the largest tent they could obtain, the great one from Wimbledon Camp. This was replaced in April, 1877, by the first great Assembly Hall, large enough to hold nearly 2,000 persons, yet hardly deserving the name of great when contrasted with its gigantic successor. It should be added that this Hall was from its first inception intended merely to be temporary, being made of corrugated iron, though it might last till something more durable could be obtained. For nearly nine years this Hall was open every night all the year round, with an average attendance on week- nights of over 600, while on Sunday nights the building was crammed and hundreds were sent away for want of room. The late Lord Shaftesbury, speaking in this Hall in 1879, said :— " It is a mighty thing to have achieved such results in the wild and remote districts of the East End of London. Would to God we had a hundred halls such as this, where men of God should stand and daily preach the Word of the Lord, and minister consolation to those who come." 78 Evangelistic Work : Barmoell and Mile-End. Before I come to speak of the erection of the present building, there are one or two other points which are note- worthy. The first of these is what Keith- Falconer called " preaching the Grospel from the walls of the city," that is, by means of placards containing texts of Scripture, direct personal appeals, and short pointed stories with pictures. Keith-Falconer remarks : ^ — " We have several of these stations in the East of London, around which numbers of people may often be seen eagerly reading the Words of Life. On Sunday mornings, work- ing men out for their weekly stroll, stop to read the parable of the Prodigal Son, or the story of ' The Patchwork Quilt.' In the dead of night, the poor fallen girl, as she passes along, is startled to see the familiar text she learned as a child in the Sunday School ; the policeman, who walks along his solitary beat, turns his bull's-eye lantern, and while all is hushed around him, reads the story of a Saviour's love ; and the profligate, as he returns from some scene of revelry, is arrested for the moment as he reads the solemn words, * Prepare to meet thy God.' The result of this work has been that large numbers of people have been brought to hear the Gospel." The idea was, so far as I am aware, a novel one ; it is one which might perhajjs provoke a certain amount of adverse comment ; but remembering the intense earnest- ness of these young teachers of the Gospel, their resolution to leave no method untried which might be productive of good, the careful deliberation with which each step was weighed, and above all, the undoubted success which has attended this method, one cannot but echo the sentiment of Clement Marot's remark, " Why should the devil have all the good music ? " and ask why to the highest purpose of all, and to that alone, should the walls be denied ? For more reasons than one, both from the insufficiency of space in the Assembly Hall, large as it was, and with ^ Plea for the Tower Hamlets Mission, p. 8. Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. 79 the view of getting hold of a different element of the population, various music-halls were hired for Evangelistic work. One of these, called the Foresters' Music-hall, capable of holding 2,000 persons, was used through three winters. They were also enabled to take, for two succes- sive winters, Lusby's Music-hall, the largest building of the kind in the East End, holding 3,000 persons. In describing the opening of the latter, Keith-Ealconer " The opening night in November was very remarkable. The crowd was so great that it extended beyond the tram- lines, which are seventy feet from the entrance, and before the doors were opened a line had to be made for the tram- cars to pass through, and we were thankful that there was no accident in so terrible a crush. The hour of service was seven o'clock, but at half -past six not a seat was vacant in any part of that vast building, and whatever standing-room could be found was quickly occupied." Besides all such works as the above, Keith-Falconer warmly sympathized with Mr. Charrington's attempts to draw away people more and more from the music-halls and public-houses, not merely by the counter-attraction of something purer and better, but also by direct personal appeals addressed to persons entering such places. This naturally excited a great deal of angry opposition and for some time there were a number of very unpleasant dis- turbances, which the owners of the property, thus be- coming depreciated, sought to lay to the charge of Mr. Charrington, who on one occasion was actually arrested by the police in consequence. " I shall never forget," writes an eye-witness, Mr. E. H. Kerwin, " the night when Mr. Charrington was taken off by the police, falsely accused of disturbance outside Lusby's Music Hall. I was not there, but hearing of the incident ^ Pleafoi' the Tower Hamlets Mission, p. 12. 80 Evangelistic Work : Bariiioell and Mile-End. I went off to the i^olice station, and on nearing it saw a large crowd. In the dark I could see one tall man, stand- ing in the centre, head and shoulders above everyone else, and perfectly white : this was Keith-Falconer, Avho had been covered with flour by the frequenters of the music- hall. He gave evidence on this occasion He also gave evidence at Clerkenwell Sessions against the character of Lusby's Music Hall." Not only therefore had these messengers of the Gospel to contend directly with drunkenness and vice, but also with those who had a strong pecuniary interest in main- taining the existing state of things, who would say with their prototype Demetrius, " By these things we have our wealth." It is often withheld from workers for Grod to see with their own eyes the fruit of their labours, but Mr. Charrington has been blessed in seeing very decided results during his seventeen years' work. Here is a significant fact. One public-house in the neighbourhood, that less than twenty years ago was sold for ^815,000, was sold two years ago for less than d£ 7,000. Still, however, with all this, much remained to be done ; not only was the existing Assembly Hall, large as it was, often insufficient to contain the numbers who flocked to it, but many other useful agencies had either to be some- what cramped in their usefulness, or had to be postponed altogether. Thus within a few years of the opening of the Assembly Hall in 1877, Mr. Charrington and Keith- Falconer began to discuss a further advance. Before proceeding to speak of the wonderful develop- ment of their foregoing schemes, and the marked blessing which has been granted to these indefatigable workers, I may call attention to a somewhat different duty which befell them in the hard winter of 1879, that of the whole- sale feeding of the hungry. I again quote Keith-Fal- coner's remarks : ^ — ^ Plea for the Tower Hamlets Mission, p. 14. Evangelistic Work: Barnwell and Mile- End. 81 " During the hard times of the winter of 1879 (due to the long frost and the depression of trade) a work was forced on our Mission which we had never contemplated taking up. The difficulties and dangers of wholesale charity- are very great, and our desire has been to avoid them, except in extreme circumstances. But the distress of that winter was extreme, and for many weeks we opened our halls and fed the literally starving multitudes with dry- bread and cocoa. The austere distress began in December. Hundreds of men were waiting daily at the Docks in the hope (nearly always a disappointed hope) of a job. Starving men were found in several instances eating muddy orange peel picked off the road. " Our feeding became a very public matter, as there was much correspondence about it in the Times, the Daily News, the Echo, and other leading papers, and many people came from long distances to see for themselves. The public supported us liberally with funds, and we were enabled to give no less than twenty thousand meals from January 1st to February 14th, beside which we assisted over three hundred families every week in their own homes. We look back to the time as one of very great blessing." All who were Keith-Falconer's intimate friends during the last six years of his life must have heard from him a great deal as to his hopes respecting the new building, his careful elaboration of plans for the maximum of useful- ness, and his hearty thankfulness at the completion of the work. In 1880, however, the undertaking to be achieved must have seemed simply gigantic. The whole cost of the present buildings, including the site, has mounted up to about ^£40,000. Of this the site had been previously pur- chased for the former Assembly Hall at a cost of ^£8,000 ; for the remainder, which it was expected would not exceed c£24,000, but which has been found in reality to be nearly d£32,000, appeals were issued. As the Honorary Secretary of the undertaking, Keith- Falconer published the pamphlet from which I have 82 Evangelistic Work : Barmcell and Mile~End. already largely drawn. It consists of a general history of what had already been done and concludes with a direct appeal for help. This appeal is so characteristic of the writer, so thoroughly earnest (entertaining as it does no doubt but that the money will be forthcoming), and, as was his way in such things, so quaintly methodical, that I reproduce it here in full.^ "PROPOSED NEW HALL. " We now appeal for funds in order to erect a new and larger Hall. " The 'present building is altogether unsuitable. a. It is far too small. On Sunday nights hundreds are turned away for want of room. When, during two successive winters, the adjacent Lusby's Music Hall (one of the largest in London) was opened on Sunday nights simultaneously with our own hall, the united congregations usually amounted to 5,000 persons. These facts tend to shew that if we had a building sufficiently large, we could gather as many 'persons as the human voice can reach. h. It is a temporary structure, which by the Metro- politan Buildings Act must come down sooner or later. c. The corrugated iron is becoming dilapidated and lets in the rain, so that rows of umbrellas are often put up during service. d. The cold in winter is intense. e. The acoustic properties are inferior. " Please add to this that our site is the very best in all East London. It ought surely to be utilized to the fullest extent. The present building only covers half of it. " We have got the site, and we have got the people. May we not have a hall to accommodate them ? The willing- ness to hear is very remarkable, and it is distressing to see ^ Plea for the Tower Hamlets Mission, pp. 15, 16. Evangelistic Work: Barnwell and Mile-End. 83 hundreds and thousands turned away for mere want of room. " The guarantees tvhich the public have that the work is a proper one, and that the new Hall will be properly used, are : — 1. The testimony of trustivorthy persons who are ac- quainted with the Mission. Mr. Spurgeon has written a warm letter. Lord Shaftesbury is an old friend of and worker in the Mission. He has de- livered several addresses in the Hall. The late Lord Kintore was a warm and constant friend of the work. Mr. E. C. L. Bevan has both promised .£2,000 and consented to act as Treasurer. 2. A trust deed has been drawn ujd, and signed, trans- ferring the property to Trustees, namely : — F. A. Bevan, Esq. ; Fredk. N. Charrington, Esq. ; Eichard Cory, Esq. ; Hon. Ion Keith-Falconer ; James Mathieson, Esq. ; Samuel Morley, Esq., M.P. ; Hon. Hamilton Tollemache ; Joseph Weatherley, Esq. ; and specifying the objects for which it is to be used. "It may be objected that the East End ought to supply its own wants. This is impossible. The population of the East End consists of the working classes, who, though they furnish the sinews of wealth which resides elsewhere, are poor themselves. Thus the East End has a double right to look outside for help. It is poor and cannot help itself adequately, and the wealthy are responsible for the well- being of their servants, the toiling thousands through whose labour they derive their riches. " The character of our Mission is evangelistic, unsectarian, and SOBER. I say sober, because of late years some have despaired of reaching the masses except by using certain unseemly and sensational methods. Our work is an em- phatic protest against this practice, and a standing disproof of its necessity. "Finally, the building for which we plead will cost «£20,000, a small sum indeed when we consider what amounts many are willing to spend on their own comforts 84 Evangelistic Work : Barmoell and Mile-End. and pleasures. This sum will not only build a suitable Hall, but a Frontage in addition, embracing a Coffee Palace and a Book Saloon for the sale of pure literature. The site has already been paid for." The nature of the assistance rendered by Keith-Falconer to the work carried on by Mr. Charrington was manifold, though much of it has been rather implied than expressed in the foregoing pages. He supported the work with liberal pecuniary aid. His donations from first to last amounted to the large sum of c£2,000 ; and a glance at the names in the subscription list shews that some of the largest donations were due to his friendly influence. Again, when every wheel in that gigantic machine had to be carefully and anxiously planned, Keith-Falconer was ever at hand as a shrewd and patient adviser. He did not often address the evening meetings, though sometimes he gave an expository address on a portion of Scripture at the gathering on Sunday morning. Mr. Charrington tells me that he was especially struck with one which dwelt with great power on St. Paul's speech on Mars' Hill. Any fear that Mr. Charrington had for a moment that the speaker might be getting over the heads of his audience was quite dispelled when he observed how keenly they entered into his graphic description of the scene from Mars' Hill, of the various elements of the crowd there assembled, of the apostle's recognition of each of these in his speech, and how forcibly the speaker brought the old but ever fresh lesson to the hearts of his audience. It was, however, with individual cases that he rather preferred to deal. Distress of any kind found in him a ready and generous, but discriminating, helper. Cases of this kind were numerous, they were as a rule known but to few. To give a mere cursory enumeration of some of these would not be of much use, but the following may serve as Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile-End. 85 a typical case. W. was a painter living in the East End of London, a steady, hard-working, married man. Keith- Falconer had first met him at the Assembly Hall, and had shewn him much kindness, and subsequently told him to apply to him if he should be in trouble. At last trouble came ; work being very slack, he was forced to pawn his tools, his best clothes, and, at last, most that he had which was worth pawning. Soon j)Oor W.'s health broke down, and letters now before me shew how timely and how con- siderate Keith-Falconer's help was. Then when he was just able to keep his head above water through this help, a fresh trouble befell him. Failing to receive payment for some work which he had done, he found himseK unable to discharge a debt amounting to about d£4, and was sent to prison. To add to the trouble, the poor wife was daily expecting to be confined of her sixth child. Again did Keith-Falconer intervene, and the man was freed from prison, and the wife and children saved from the work- house. In a letter written by W. after the sad news from Aden had reached England, the writer dwells with warm grati- tude on the change in his own position, and, with deep grief at the news, adds ; " He told me if, by reason of the frailty which is in man by his evil heart of unbelief, I should fall into sin, ' E-emember sinking Peter ' ; that One who raised him to the surface of the water can give me strength to get up again." Keith-Falconer's habit was to run down for a week at a time and help. Sometimes he stayed longer, as when once he spent three weeks with Mr. Charrington giving careful tuition to a friend who was preparing for an examination. Often too he accompanied Mr. Charrington on the occasion of the annual excursions in connection with the Assembly Hall ; and was exceedingly kind and helpful when 2,500 of the attendants at the Hall visited Southend. Although it is carrying this part of the history beyond 86 Evangelistic Work : Barnwell and Mile- End, tlie period as jet reached in the other divisions of our narrative, still it will be convenient to speak in this place of the ultimate completion of the work in the success of which Keith -Falconer was so intensely interested. The sum to be raised was, as we have seen, a very con- siderable one, but those who had thus put their hand to the work held with Napoleon that the word ' impossible ' should have no place in their vocabulary ; and so perse- vering were their efforts, and so fully did Grod aid their enterprise, that by the beginning of the year 1886,^ there were ready for use not only an Assembly Hall of much larger dimensions than the j)revious one, but numerous other rooms used in connection with various beneficent purposes. Of the whole .£40,000 of the cost, more than de25,000 had been already received ; but unfortunately the estimates were exceeded in many points, so that a very considerable debt still remains on the building. The Hall is capable of holding comfortably 4,300 per- sons, so that on occasion, with a little pressing, it could be made to accommodate nearly 5,000. On one striking and, I fancy, novel feature of this Hall, Keith -Falconer was very fond of dwelling, both before and after the attain- ment of his idea. This was that there should be an un- broken view from the street into the Hall, so that the speakers on the platform should be clearly visible through the intervening glass doors. Keith-Falconer held, and doubtless very justly, that many a man or woman of the poorest class is often deterred from entering a place of worship by the closed doors and the fancied obstacles be- hind them. To give any detailed description of the Hall would be out of place here ; it will be sufficient to state that the ground-floor area is 130 feet long by 70 feet wide, the height from floor to ceiling being 44 feet. Two large gal- ^ The building was opened on Feb. 4, 1886 ; on Mr. Charrington's birthday. Evangelistic Work : Barmoell and Mile-End. 87 leries run round three sides of the building, while on the remaining side are two platforms, one above another, with a large organ behind. Abundance of windows of slightly- tinted yellow glass yield a pleasant light by day, while shutting out entirely the outside view. At night, brilliant as is the light given by the continuous row of gas-jets, the ventilation is admirable. Of the space between the great Hall and the street, the central part is occupied by a large vestibule, where passers in and out may meet and exchange friendly greetings ; and the two wings by a book-depot for the sale of pure literature, and by a spacious coffee-palace. Upstairs, various organisations have their home, a Young Men's Christian Association, a Young Women's Christian Association, an Emigration Depot, and the like. In the summer of last year (1886), I accompanied Keith- Falconer to see the building, and we were taken by Mr. Charrington to the central point of the upper gallery of the great Hall to gain the best general view of the room. As we sat there, I could not but be struck with the similar ex- pression on the faces of the two men. It was one in which joy, and keen resolve, and humble thankfulness were strangely blended. One great work for God, which Keith- Falconer had striven hard to further, he was allowed to see in its fullest completeness, carried on by men working there with heartiest and purest zeal. Not while any of the present generation of workers survive, will the name of Ion Keith-Falconer fade out of loving remembrance in the great building in Mile-End Road. CHAPTEE V. LEIPZIG. " High ncature amorous of the good, But touched with no ascetic gloom." Tennyson, In Memoriam. Our chapter on Keith -Falconer's student life at Cambridge ended, it will be remembered, with his last examination, the Semitic Languages Tripos, in February, 1880. At the time of this examination his knowledge of Arabic was but slight, and simply sufficient for the requirements of the paper on Comparative G-rammar in the examination. The Tripos over, he turned his attention definitely to the study of Arabic, the language, which, like Hebrew, had a wonderful fascination for him from the first, and to which, as his knowledge widened, he became more and more de- voted ; though realizing ever, as he went on, how vast was the field of work. As he expressed it in a letter written in March, 1887, " I expect to peg away at the Dictionary till my last day." The time until the end of May was mostly spent in quiet study at Cambridge, broken by short occasional visits to town ; and during the latter part of this time he worked assiduously at Arabic with Dr. Wright. On leaving Cam- bridge early in June, he spent some time at his father's house in London, and about the middle of the month started for Eoyat, in Auvergne, where he purposed remain- ing for several weeks. It was while he was here that a very grievous sorrow Leipzig. 89 befell him in the almost sudden death of his father, whom not long before he had left in perfect health, and between whom and himself the most perfect confidence and love had always existed. In a letter which I received from Keith-Falconer, dated July 25, he says : — •*,... The event was a fearfully sudden one. I received at 6 o'clock on Monday morning a telegram as follows : — * Your father very ill, come at once.' At 8 I was in the train. Reached Paris at 5 p.m., telegraphed for further information to be sent to Dover. Arrived at Dover at 4 A.M. Tuesday, a telegram was put into my hands, saying, ' Your dear father passed away peacefully on Sunday night at twenty minutes to seven.' I got home at 6.30, and found my father, whom I had left in perfect health five weeks before, in his coffin. " He was perfectly well on Sunday excepting that a fortnight before he had sprained his ancle. On Friday or Saturday he remarked that he never felt better in all his life. On Sunday afternoon he received two friends, and chatted with them in his usual lively, happy manner. When they had left, he and my mother went out in the carriage. They had not traversed more than two or three streets, when he said, ' I feel so ill, I must go back,' and began to change colour and to tremble violently. The horses were turned instantly, and when home was reached, he put his hand to his side, exclaiming, ' I am dying : carry me in.' The servants carried him to his room in a half- fainting condition He said good-bye to my mother, and quietly expired. My sisters were on a visit in the country at the time." After referring to the cause of death, which lay in the fact that the sprain had resulted in the formation of a clot of blood which had gradually worked up to the heart and interfered with its action, the letter continues : — " Fancy dying of a sprain ! Life seems to hang by a thread. It is noteworthy that my father always hoped for 90 Leipzig. a sudden death, and dreaded the thought of a lingering illness. He also told Mr. , of Aberdeen, when last there, that he would like to die on a Sunday. "■ It seems like a dream. I do not realize my loss, but must do so in time. " We laid him in his grave to-day, next Arthur, in the family burial-ground next the parish Church of Keith-Hall, up the hill. About 600 attended " This is not the place to write a detailed account of the numerous good works with which the late Lord Kintore was associated. A man of profound religious convictions, he endeavoured consistently to let his religion be the ani- mating principle of the whole course of his actions. He wore *' the white flower of a blameless life," and set a noble example of simple Christian goodness. He was most generous at all times in his support of all good works, and especially of those connected with the Free Church of Scotland. Of this Church he had long been an elder, and with it his sympathies were very strongly bound up ; though, like his son Ion, he was most tolerant of the views of those who, while agreeing as to essential truth, differed from him in details. Father and son alike, though holding to their own views unflinchingly, preferred to dwell in conversation with their friends on the points which they held in common, rather than to battle about those on which they differed. Towards the end of the summer a case occurred which shews how ready Keith-Falconer was, while even the shadow of his great sorrow rested upon him, actively to interest himself for anyone who, he felt, had a legitimate claim upon his sympathies. Dr. Wright had mentioned to him in the course of con- versation the difficulty experienced by the well-known Grerman scholar. Dr. Lagarde, in meeting the cost of the publication of his books. Dr. Lagarde had succeeded Ewald as Professor of Oriental Languages at Grottingen, Leipzig, 91 and had published a very large number of works mostly having a direct bearing on the text of the Old Testament. Groing as many of these did somewhat off the beaten track of studies, they would appeal to a rather limited public even in GTermany, and thus the cost of publication would be but slightly reduced by the sale of the books. The more numerous the publications, the greater the loss, and therefore it seemed inevitable that works of very consider- able value, in a part of the field where none too many workers have worked, must cease from lack of funds. A letter from Keith-Falconer to his mother, dated August 28, 1880, tells her all this, dwells on the fact that all exact work on the elucidation of the text of the Old Testament is a thing to be cordially welcomed, and urges that it is a reproach to those who have the cause at heart, and can afford to help, to allow such work to be hindered from simple want of funds. He accordingly tells her that having had full assurance from Dr. Wright that the facts were as he had stated them, he wished to raise a fund of ^61,000 to help Lagarde to carry on his work. He undertakes to give c£100 him- self, and begs his mother to contribute ^250, adding, '' I have not got patience or time to go asking for a pound here and a pound there." One of the books specially aided by Keith -Falconer's kind interposition was an edition of the Septuagint, for which some fresh MSS. had been examined. In the pre- face to the first volume, Lagarde warmly and gracefully alludes to the opportune help he had received, the names there given of his supporters being with one exception due to the advocacy of Keith-Falconer. In this same letter, he alludes to a book on which for some years he spent pains most ungrudgingly, and of which I shall give a detailed description in its due place. This was the Kalilah, a book of which Dr. Wright was preparing the Syriac text for publication, and had urged 92 Leipzig, Keith-Falconer to bring out an English translation with an Introduction, promising to send him the proof-sheets of the original as they appeared. For some time Keith-Falconer had wished to have an opportunity of studying at a Grerman University, not, it needs not to be said, from any feeling that he could there obtain teaching in Arabic of a higher kind than at Cam- bridge, for a letter, which will be given presently, shews what his views were as to the Cambridge professor ; but partly from the wish to become yet more thoroughly versed in G-erman while pursuing his Arabic studies, and partly, I fancy, from the wish to see something of a type of university and of students differing in many ways from our own. Accompanied by a friend, a student of like pursuits, he established himself at Leipzig, which he reached on October 23, and where he remained for nearly five months. The following letter to a friend, dated October 24, gives an amusing account of his arrival. After speaking of his journey from London, via Calais, Brussels and Diisseldorf, it proceeds : — " We started at 1 p.m. from Diisseldorf , and were due in at 11.42, but did not arrive till 2 in the morning. A. was much tried hereby. I sat it out patiently enough, but he otherwise. Towards 1 a.m. his face assumed an aspect of resigned despair. He was very cold and very hungry and very tired. When at length we got in, we found no cab, except two which had been taken. So we had to wait about till one could be fetched. " In the meantime A. found that his book-box had been taken away by mistake by another party. He was indeed in a frenzy. But he got better when our cab finally came, and still better when we found his box at the Hauff Hotel, where we went. But he could not get anything to eat, and so went to bed supperless. Next morning he was up early, thinking that the whole day would be required to fix ourselves ; but I, on the contrary, persisted in laziness, though every half-hour A. came entreating me to make Leipzig. 93 haste and sally out with him in quest of rooms. So I had breakfast in bed, then a hot bath, then dressed and shaved to mj satisfaction. It was now 1 o'clock, and at last we went out together ; but it struck me at this point (1) that it was time for dinner, (2) that we had better first go and see , who would be able to give us good advice about rooms, etc. " We then sej)arated, I to dinner at the table d'hote, and A. to make purchases, as he could not eat for fuss and anxiety. They gave us a splendid dinner, and towards the end A. came in and felt inclined to eat, and as they keep the dishes hot for late comers he got his dinner After dinner we went in search of rooms, and to make up for my lazy immobility of the morning, and to set him more at rest, I promised him he should have the first good rooms we found. In about an hour we discovered a splendid set, which he took at once After getting his rooms, I went to get some for myself. This I soon did, but they are not as good as his." A later letter (February 18, 1881) to the present writer, graphically describes his course of life and his sur- roundings : — As to study, I think I can claim having laid a good foundation in Arabic. Three days in the week we (that is A. and self) go to Professor X. to read Koran. We have read about fifty pages in Fluegel's large edition. Besides this we read in a Chrestomathy book by Arnold — not with X., but in lecture where Professor Y. holds forth. X. is not like some German professors, for he is tidy, without spectacles, nicely dressed, polite and affable, moderate in his views, and does not smoke X. lectures in the university in Arabic and Turkish. He can read besides Persian, and has an elementary knowledge of Hebrew and Syriac. His knowledge of the Bible, especially of the Old Testament, is marvellous. It would indeed astonish you. Till a fortnight ago he had never heard that the golden calf is reported to have been broken, ground to powder, mixed with water, and partaken of by the Israelites. He confessed to his ignorance in the most naive and artless 94 Leipzig. way. The chapter too in Ezekiel about the dry bones — he had never heard of. He certainly knows less of the bare contents of the Bible than most English — and all Scotch — children of nine or ten years old. " Y. does wear spectacles, talks in a lond, rough voice, in- terlards his every lecture with frequent exclamations of " Du lieber Gott,' * Ach Grott,' and smokes like a chimney. But still he is tidy, and keeps his hair short. But he and X. are really very kind and goodhearted to a degree. " Y.'s lectures — twice a week from October to March — cost me the moderate sum of 9s. Qd. But I have almost entirely ceased to attend them. I first went to them to learn some Arabic, afterwa^rds I continued to attend them to learn some G-erman, and now I cease going at all because I can learn neither. He can't lecture a bit, and carries on a most inelegant, conversational, slipshod, rough and ready, broken conversation. X. on the contrary speaks admirable German, and is in every respect " hochst bescheiden.' Old Dr. Fleischer, the Arabist, I have called on. He is over eighty. Fresh and merry as a cricket. Active as ever. " I also know Prof. Windisch (Sanscrit and Old Irish, which he learnt from Mr. Standish 0' Grady), who is a very pleasant and exhilarating person Professor. I met a few days ago. He talked Chinese in his youth, his father having been connected with China. Of Scotch ballads he has a large collection, and recited one to me. He is a good stenographer, and can write longhand back- wards or upside-down, or backwards and upside-down. Philosophy and art are the pegs on which he manages to hang never-ceasing harangues. Smokes like a chimney. Was formerly a Jtidge in Dresden, and studied Chinese in spare hours. His acquirements you see are varied and peculiar. "Among German students I have no acquaintances at all But I must not omit to say that I have made friends with old Dr. Delitzsch. He is highly esteemed and beloved in the town and university. He is by far the greatest theologian here. He is very small of stature ; white hair ; neck encased in white bandages ; his head is broad and flat, and not high and intellectual-looking. He is very poetical and mystical in his conversation ; and is Leipzig. 95 very kind and homely in his manner : he has numerous acquaintances among the students, and hunts up all the English-speaking students — especially the Scotch. He thinks very highly of the Free Church of Scotland. He does not like at all. Thinks him hech, and one in whom the ' Verstand priidominirt/ while the Geist and Gemilth fail to occupy their proper place All this I gathered from a long conversation, which I may say I was privileged to have with him lately. I was drinking coffee in the E-e- stauration situate on the ground floor of the house in which I used to lodge, and in comes the old gentleman. So I in- duced him to come up to my room, and kept him for a long time. F. Klein, mathematical professor, closes my list of learned acquaintances. They all have a profound re- spect for our Dr. Wright, and from all I can gather, Scot- land can boast of having produced the best all-round Semitic scholar in the world " Delitzsch, I suppose you know, has just published a pamphlet called ' Falsche Wage ist nicht gut,' in reply to Rohling's ' Talmud-Jude.' E-ohling is a Roman Catholic priest, and bigotted to an absurd degree against the unfor- tunate Jews, who are universally disliked in Germany. I asked a gentleman the other day, 'Woran erkennen Sie denn einen Juden ? ' answer, * An seinem allgemeinen hru- talen Wesen.' This gives the key-note to the general anti- Jew agitation in G-ermany. No specific charge against them as a body ; only a strong antipathy to the Jew. " I used to lodge in splendid rooms in the centre of the town, from which I had the best view in Leipzig. But the waiting was not satisfactory, and the sitting-room was much too large — a huge salon with polished floor — and being a corner room, fearfully susceptible to cold winds, and so big that the Ofen could not heat it. So I have changed and now lodge as above. Here I have verkehr and umgang in the family, consisting of a well-to-do busi- ness man — formerly in excellent circumstances, but now, as so many since the war, in reduced position — his amiable lady, a middle-aged daughter and two younger ones. I am learning a lot of German from them, as they don't know any English, though they are supposed to have learnt it at school. 96 Leipzig. " I dine at 1.30 at the table d'hote of Hotel de Prusse — a splendid dinner — 7 or 8 courses for Is. 6d. (abonnement) if wine is taken, 2s. if not : extraordinarily cheap. Every- thing is cheaj) here : ridiculously cheap. I can buy a cigar for 2^d. here which in Cambridge would cost 6d. ! You can get excellent light wine for 2s. 6d. a bottle. I have dined fairly well for 6^d. ! (soup, two courses of meat and vege- tables and compot). Lodgings also : one can get an excel- lent pair of rooms at 50s. a month. Books, however, are not much cheaper than in England. I have just purchased a hardly used copy of Ereytag in four vols, for ^5 " I also want you to look up a Peerage and trace my con- nection with James Keith, the Field-Marshal of Frederick the Grreat. I am going to Berlin before I return home, and I shall look such an idiot if I do not know how I am con- nected with him. " Christmas, you will be surprised to hear, I spent at Cannes, where my mother and sisters are, I went there via Paris and Marseilles : returned via G-enoa, Milan, Verona, the Brenner and Munich. " Dresden is the town which most pleases me, of all those which I have seen. Berlin is very unattractive : so cold, and angular as a Dutch garden, and prosaic and flat. Leipzig is delightful, so long as one keeps strictly in the town, for the suburbs and surroundings are painfully hideous, compared to which those of Cambridge are charm- ing and gorgeous. (So rest and be thankful.) " I hope to spend the summer term in dear old Cam- bridge. A great friend of mine, J. E. K. Studd, has secured the lower rooms, which is pleasant for me. Kalilah goes ahead, though slowly. I have done about 100 pages, but go faster and faster as I progress " This brings before us the picture of a genial and light- hearted, but diligent student, and of a shrewd observer of what went on around him. All this Keith-Falconer was, but it is only half the picture. There are some natures (and I speak here of natures altogether sincere), which, being animated with love for God and Christ, yet will not be content with allowing that Leipzig, 97 love to permeate the whole nature, letting its light shine before men as our Saviour bids us, but must bring up the innermost feelings to the surface at all times. To read some of the so-called religious biographies it would seem as though for everything save the actual reli- gious duties, a sort of half apology were needed, as if every form of honest secular work, every form of innocent recrea- tion were rather to be tolerated than approved of. The bright geniality of many of Keith-Falconer's letters co-existed, as his friends know well, with the deepest thoughtfulness in religious matters. It was not his habit constantly to bring such topics into his ordinary conversa- tion, but the thoughts lay there ; and when duty called for it, or in more private talk with intimate friends, he would speak out unreservedly. Some of the following extracts taken from letters written to a friend at this time, bring out another side of Keith- Falconer's character. The first extract is from his answer to a letter in which a friend had urged upon him how high the standard of Chris- tian life ought to be. " You have tried to picture what the Christian life ought to be. You do not, and cannot overdraw the pic- ture. But this hardly touches the important and the prac- tical question, how to attain to it. It does not seem to me sufficient merely to * own the presence of the Holy Ghost.' I believe in the presence of the Holy Ghost in the Church (ever since the Lord ascended) ; and I believe that the Holy Ghost will dwell in me, that is reign in me, if I will surrender myself to Him. And this surrender is not a thing to be done once for all ; it is continuous and life- long. Like other habits it becomes easier the more it is persisted in, but it is a struggle. The Christian is de- scribed as a warrior in the New Testament, and not only so, but as a struggling, hard-fighting, agonizing one — see 1 Peter v. 7-10 and elsewhere. If by simply and once for all surrendering ourselves to the Holy Ghost, we could en- 98 Leipzig. sure ourselves against sinning, why does the New Testa- ment teem with warnings against particular sins and temptations, instead of simply telling us ' surrender your- selves to the Spirit once for all ; the Spirit will then fight your battles for you.' " As to the two ways of putting the G-ospel, * Christ for us,' ' We for Christ,' I perfectly agree with both. In fact they seem to me identical Christ for us Our Lord Our Head Our Brother Our Saviour etc. We for Christ His servants His members His brethren His ransomed people etc. and Cant. vi. 3 binds together these two sets of relationship. .... * We for Christ ' is strikingly brought out in Ps. ii. 7, 8. Cf. Prov. viii. 31." In a subsequent letter he writes : — ''Nov., 1880. "As to the wisdom so often deprecated in the New Testament, it seems to me that G-reek philosophies and Rabbinical follies are aimed at. But scholarship in our sense of the word did not exist when the New Testameijt was written. Scholarship is a laborious and, to a great extent, mechanical way of getting at the original text. Scholarship assumes no doctrine, and denies none. It is colourless. Scholarship can hardly be called wisdom, any more than I can be called wise because I know English, The words chiefly used in the New Testament to denote wisdom, viz. ao^ia and yi^waig, mean something else, namely Rabbinical lore and tradition and Greek (Alexandrian) philosophy, which afterwards made a compromise with Christianity, and produced ' Gnosticism.' The more of a * scholar ' one becomes, the more one fathoms the depths of one's ignorance, and estimates the measure of one's de- pendence on Ood's Spirit. To take the immense trouble of learning ancient languages in order to ferret out correct readings, is a silent, but most emphatic protest, against the Leipzig. 99 claims of a priori reasoning or philosophy. Eationalists are no scholars, because they begin by assuming ideas and theories — which scholars do not — and then adapt the text or the translation so as to suit them. You can refer to any commentary of the Tubingen School, and you will see the force of this remark." ''Nov., 1880. ** People forget that while the sacred writers were in- spired penmen, yet they were penweTi, and that each re- tained his individuality, yet without sin or error, and that consequently the style, diction, and habits of one writer differ from those of another. It is impertinent and im- pious to postulate that God must have laid aside the in- dividuality and humanity — in itself first created and not sinful — of each writer, and used him as a passive, dead, inanimate, senseless, pen or instrument. Grod rtiight have done this, but he did not do so : God may take pure Hebrew and use it ; he may take corrupt Hebrew and use it. He may take a writer, who has a gift for splendid and gorgeous descriptions, as Isaiah, and use that gift. He may also take a writer, whose style is more monotonous, and less thriUing, as the author of Ecclesiastes, and use his style. Inspiration lies apart from these considerations. All I know about inspiration is that it makes the writing free from all error and untruthfulness, and that every word is to be considered the word of God. Speaking very roughly, I refuse to believe that our English Bible, as we have it, preface to King James and all, fell down from Heaven." In March, Keith-Falconer had rather a severe illness, which confined him to his bed for about a fortnight. When he began to regain his strength, the time had almost come at which he had purposed to return home. His companion wished to defer his own plan of visiting Switzerland at this time, so as to be able to accompany him, as not yet quite recovered, as far as London. This, however, Keith-Falconer, always one of the most unselfish of men, refused to allow, and insisted that he was strong enough by this time to go quite safely to England alone. 100 Leipzig. He reached London early in April, and shortly after this had the very great pleasure of being introduced to General Gordon, and having several long conversations with him. On these conversations Keith-Falconer often dwelt after- wards. There were certain common elements in the two men which must have tended to draw them to one another. In each there was the same deep, simple faith, ingrained and unwavering; the same absorbing realisation of the workings of God's Providence ; the same utter abnegation of self when the thought of duty came in ; and, to a cer- tain extent, somewhat of the same unconventionality in both speech and action. In Keith-Falconer's mind there had previously been the highest admiration for Gordon from what he had read of him : now that he had met and spoken to him, he en- shrined Gordon in his heart as one of his heroes. He set great store, as may well be imagined, on a little book which Gordon had given him, Clarke's Scripture Promises, — promises which both men had come so absolutely to trust. The following letter is the second of two written by Gordon to Keith-Falconer in April, 1881 : it shews that the elder man saw that there was sterling metal in the younger. The invitation was one which Keith-Falconer frequently regretted that circumstances had prevented him from accepting. "5, RocKSTONE Place, Southampton, 25, 4, 1881. " My dear Mr. Keith-Falconer, " I only wish I could put you into something that would give you the work you need, viz. secular and religious work, running side by side. This is the proper work for man and I think you could find it. " Would you go to Stamboul as extra unpaid attache to Lord Duft'erin; if so, why not try it, or else as private Leipzig, 101 secretary to Petersburg ? If you will not, then come to me in Syi'ia to the Hermitage. ** Believe me with kind regards, "Yours sincerely, " C. a. Gordon." As was the case when any subject lay near his heart, Keith-Falconer talked much at this time to his intimate friends of Grordon and his wonderful career. One inci- dent, I remember, he was very fond of dwelling on. When the " ever- victorious " Chinese army under Grordon's leader- ship had accomplished its work, the richest gifts were gratefully pressed on him. Pecuniary rewards of every kind he absolutely refused ; the only thing he would ac- cept being a gold medal, the sole material result to him of his marvellous successes. Some time after his arrival in England, wishing to contribute to the Cotton-famine Fund, and finding himself somewhat short of money at the time, he deliberately gave up his gold medal for this purpose. When Grordon was sent out for the relief of Khartoum, Keith-Falconer followed his movements with the keenest interest and eagerly looked for tidings. As the news came of the long, solitary watch in that far-off post, where that noblest of the noble waited, without fear and at last with- out hope, for the help which England, or rather her rulers, would not send, Keith-Falconer's anxiety became intense. When at last the news came of the treachery at Khartoum and the bloody massacre, he at first hoped against hope that the news was false, and that the sacredness with which Gordon was known to be invested must have suf- ficed to save him. When all hope was clearly gone, his grief as for a most dear friend was blended with the keenest indignation that one of England's noblest sons should have served as a mere counter in the reckless game of politics. The May term of this year was spent by Keith-Falconer in quiet study at Cambridge. 102 Leipzig, Writing to the friend to whom the three foregoing letters were addressed, he says : — ''May 4:, 1881. " Pray constantly for me, especially that I may have my path in life more clearly marked out for me, or (which is perhaps a better request) that I may be led along the path intended for me." On May 28, Keith -Falconer started on a bicycle tour through Oxford, Pangbourne and Harrow. This was, however, intended but as a "preliminary canter" to a much more ambitious effort. Accordingly, on June 4, he went by train to Penzance, fully intending to achieve the ride from the Land's End to John o' Groat's House in the extreme north-east of Scotland. After waiting at Pen- zance for several days, he was reluctantly forced to give up his scheme, on account of the persistent bad weather ; and, returning to town, paid a visit of several weeks' dura- tion to Mr. Charrington. The following letter well indi- cates his feelings at the time : — "Stepney Green, June 12, 1881. " It is overwhelming to think of the vastness of the harvest-field, when compared with the indolence, indif- ference and unwillingness on the part of most so-called Christians, to become, even in a moderate degree, labourers in the same. I take the rebuke to myself To en- joy the blessings and happiness God gives, and never to stretch out a helping hand to the poor and the wicked, is a most horrible thing. When we come to die, it will be awful for us, if we have to look back on a life spent purely on self, but — believe me — if we are to spend our life other- wise, we must make up our minds to be thought ' odd ' and ' eccentric ' and ' unsocial,' and to be sneered at and avoided. ** For instance, how ' odd ' and * unsocial ' of my heroic friend (Mr. Charrington) to live in this dirty, smoky, East-End all the year round, and instead of dining out Leipzig. 103 with his friends and relations, to go night after night to minister to the poor and wretched! .... But I like to live with him and to watch the workings of the mighty- hand of Grod and to catch a spark of the fire of zeal which burns within him, in order that I maj be moved to greater willingness and earnestness in the noblest cause which can occupy the thoughts of a man. This is immeasurably better than spending my afternoons in calling on people, my evenings in dinners and balls, and my mornings in bed The usual centre is Self, the proper centre is GrOD. If therefore one lives for God, one is out of centre or eccentric, with regard to the people who do not." After leaving Mr. Charrington, Keith-Falconer rejoined his mother and sisters at Keith-Hall, where he remained till August 20. From a letter written at this period I extract the following exceedingly sensible remarks as to the true function and benefit of vigorous physical exercise : — ''Jidy, 1881. " It is an excellent thing to encourage an innocent sport (such as bicycling) which keeps young fellows out of the public-houses, music-halls, gambling hells and all the other traps that are ready to catch them. I wish I had ridden last year. It is a great advantage to enter for a few races in public, and not merely ride on the road for exercise, because in the former case one has to train one- seK and this involves abstinence from beer and wine and tobacco, and early going to bed and early rising, and gets one's body into a really vigorous, healthy state. As to betting, nearly all Clubs forbid it strictly, and anyone found at it is liable to be ejected promptly. A bicycle race-course is as quiet and respectable as a public science lecture by Tyndall If we exercised and trained our bodies more than we do, there would be less illness, bad temper, nervousness and self-indulgence, more vigour and simplicity of life. Of course, you can have too much of it, but the tendency in most cases is to indulge the body, and not exercise it enough, and athletic contests are an excel- lent means of inducing young people to deny themselves in this respect." 104 Leipzig. On August 20, Keith-Falconer left home for a short visit to Grermany, travelling by way of Harwich, Rotter- dam, Amsterdam, Cologne, Frankfort and Carlsruhe to Herrenalb in the Black Forest. Here he remained for some weeks, but his letters written at this time dwell entirely on points of purely personal interest. After a flying visit to Leipzig, he set out for home, passing on his way through Stuttgart and Strasburg, and reaching London at the end of September. His next journey was a much more distant one, and but for his illness might have proved decidedly adventurous. CHAPTER VI. ASSIOUT: HOME. IToWwr avQpu)Trij)v IStv darea Kal voov eyvut. Homer. Although Keith-Falconer had by this time devoted very- considerable attention to classical Arabic, he was anxious to gain, what no study of books alone could give him, a ready colloquial use of the language as spoken at present. To do this it would be necessary to reside for some time at a place where not only could satisfactory teaching of the kind he needed be obtained, but where to a certain extent he would be forced to use his Arabic and not be tempted on all occasions to have recourse to some more familiar language. A place fulfilling the necessary conditions was Assiout on the Nile, about 200 miles above Cairo, and the furthest point as yet reached by the Egyptian railway. The place was very little frequented by Europeans, and at the time when Keith-Falconer first went there was not even an hotel. Fortunately, however, a Scotch missionary, Dr. Hogg, resided there, and was an accomplished Arabist. Accordingly he left England towards the end of October, intending to remain in Egypt for three or four months. The story of Keith-Falconer's residence at Assiout may best be told by extracts from his own letters. Those here given are addressed either to his mother or to Miss Bevan, his future wife. 106 Assiout: Home, " On board le PfiLUSE, Nov. 3, 1881. (First he describes his journey by way of Calais, Paris and Marseilles) : "At Marseilles I went to the Terminus Hotel. This morning I was very busy making purchases in accordance with Baedeker's directions. I got a strong pocket-knife, two balls of twine, four note-books, steel pens and pencils, ink and inkstand, paper and envelojDes, drinking-flask and a bottle of gum The steamer is decidedly a fine one, and we do hardly anything but eat all day long We reach Naples early on Saturday. Then after a few hours straight to Alexandria, where we are due on Wednesday morning I am studying Baedeker, which seems to be quite a compendium of information and learning, and hope even to acquire enough Arabic during the voyage to get on with at first." *' Cairo, Nov. 10, 1881. "The train got to Cairo at 10.25 last night, and the hotel omnibus met us at the station. After a very jolty ride along one of the main thoroughfares of Cairo, we entered the Muski, or the ' City ' of Cairo, where the best shops are and much of the business is done. I was on the box, and with difficulty kept there along the Muski. The hotel was reached at the end of a street, too narrow for carriages to drive along, but when reached, a very pleasant house, arranged in a quadrangle, and a garden in the middle After breakfast, I went to the Kutub- Khaneh, or Vice-regal Library, where I saw Dr. Spitta- Bey, the chief librarian, to whom I had a letter of intro- duction from Dr. Wright. He was very kind and agreeable. Then on to the American Mission, where I presented my letter to Dr. Watson. He will write to Dr. Hogg at Assiout, and on Monday I shall know if I can live there. I mean this afternoon to go to see Miss Whately, and to have a bath in native style Cairo has about 400,000 inhabitants, including 20,000 Europeans, princi- pally Italians. The streets are not paved at all — but it would take sheets to describe the town There is something very nice about many of the people — many of them have such good faces. They have a good reputation Assiout: Home, 107 for honesty, especially the Nubians Flies are a plague. One sees people lying asleep on the road-side, covered with flies, mouth, nostrils, ears, eyes, swarming with them — a disgusting sight. " I intend to spend a month or five weeks at the ver- nacular, and then to resume the ancient language, under the guidance of a sheikh. " I have just visited the mosque of Sultan Hasan, the finest specimen of Arabian architecture to be seen any- where : it is beautiful. The greater part of it, the Sahn el-Ga'a, where the congregation stand, is uncovered. One has to put on slippers over one's boots to walk about in the mosque." "Cairo, iVoy. 13, 1881. "Yesterday I visited the Pyramids of Gizeh, and mounted the Great Pyramid. The Arabs spoilt all the fun with their jabbering importunities for money and their clumsy assistance. The begging here is something dreadful. It is a recognised thing among high and low. They seem to imagine that strangers come out here on purpose to shower money round them, and that sight-seeing is only the excuse for so doing I have also visited two mosques, and the bazaars of course. A bazaar means a dirty narrow street, where all the shops — wretched holes — sell the same wares. There is the bazaar of the jewellers, the blacksmiths, etc." " AssioUT, Nov. 20, 1881. " I am here at last. The journey from Cairo was very unpleasant. The dust — I shall never forget it. I tried to read (Dozy's Islamisme), but in a short time the book and I got so filthy with the dust, that I became irritable and uncomfortable and could not read. After lunching on a dusty chicken, a dusty bit of cheese, dusty apples, dusty ham, dusty bread and some wine, I laid myself on the dusty seats and had a sleep for a couple of hours, and shortly arrived. " I was met by one of Dr. Hogg's students, who could speak a httle English. He had brought donkeys and a lamp ; for the town is not lighted at all, and the streets are narrow and winding. After 15 or 20 minutes' ride 108 Assiout: Home, right through the centre of the town, we arrived. The house is on the extreme edge of Assiout, looking out on the town on one side, and on the other on a green expanse terminated by an imposing range of hills, the commence- ment of the Grreat Desert. The Nile is right away on the other side of the town, and a good mile from here. There is an hotel at the station, which will be ready on Dec. 1, and I intend to live there from that date. The proprietor or manager is a Greek. There are numbers of G-reeks in Egypt, and they dislike anything like manual labour, pre- ferring to keep shops, and especially restaurants and hotels. Dr. Hogg is a first-rate Arabist. He preaches in Arabic perfectly fluently. He teaches his students in Arabic, including the Sol-Fa class. (The Arabs have wretched ears, and Dr. Hogg tells me that it was only by means of the Sol-Fa that he could get anything approach- ing to music out of them.) Family worship in the morn- ing at 7.15 is conducted in Arabic I have taken a teacher.' He is to come two hours a day, and to receive c£3 a month. So you see learning is wonderfully cheap here Dr. Hogg is most accomplished. He knows Italian thoroughly, and can preach in it. He has preached in Turkish, but has dropped it. He is very fond of phi- losophy, and has translated Calderwood's Handbook of Moral Philosophy into Arabic. He has a good voice, and can play, and lead the psalms and hymns. He knows phonography, and used to write it when a student in Edinburgh." "Assiout, Nov. 25, 1881. " I have had a touch of fever and a hea^^ cold The family are very kind to me Dr. Hogg has been running in and out all day long. He is a splendid nurse, being strong, and has no doubt about what ought to be done As to my Arabic studies, I have leamt a good deal, and can make myself intelligible to servants and porters. I have a teacher every day for two hours, and translate from a child's reading- book." Shortly after writing the foregoing letter, Keith-Falconer removed to the hotel. He does not appear to have found any great amount of comfort there. He again writes : — Assiout: Home. 109 " Assiout, Nov. 30, 1881. " I am disappointed with Egypt, both as to scenery and climate. It is a vile place for catching cold. Buildings seem constructed with a view to as many draughts as possible. The colouring at sunrise and sunset is beautiful — like apricots and peaches There are no bells. That is the greatest drawback of all. You have to go outside your door and clap your hands, and when you have repeated this performance five or six times, the Arab servant may begin to have a suspicion that somebody wants someone ; and when at last you get him, it will be very wonderful if he does what you want." " Assiout, Dec. 22, 1881. " A good many travellers pass through here, principally Greek merchants and English : but I am the only person staying here for any length of time. The hotel has been advertised by the owners as a first-class one, but this is hardly true, for there are no carpets or mats on the floors, which are of stone ; no wardrobes or chests of drawers in the bedrooms, no baths of any kind, and no sofas or arm- chairs. The servant, a kind of man of all work, is a G-reek, and for stupidity, I think, unrivalled. The cooking is fairly good, I am thankful to say. The hotel is in a line with the station, and the engine draws up exactly under my window. The town is truly and unspeakably disgusting. The streets are all filthy alleys, very crooked and winding, and not lighted at night I shall be very glad to get back to civilisation. I cannot call this a civilised place." "Assiout, Dec. 22, 1881. " I am getting on with Arabic, but it is most appallingly hard. Yesterday I went with my teacher to his house. He introduced me to his wife, child and tea. She was at a college in Beyrout." *' Assiout, Dec. 28, 1881. " There is no * society ' here at all, of course. I see a missionary now and then, or the Greek doctor and my teacher. Sometimes a traveller or two drops in. There 110 Assiout: Home. are three Frenclimen here now, awaiting their dahabeah, which is coming from Cairo. They are small, dark, dirty, and of most villanous countenance. My teacher has been styled the 'inspired idiot.' His face is absolutely destitute of expression, and he only speaks when positively neces- sary He is a Syrian, and he invited me to dinner on Saturday the 24th (for Christmas), and I never want to taste Syrian dishes again." "Assiout, Jan. 12, 1882. ** T am meditating a camel ride in the desert. I mean to go from here to Luxor (Thebes) on a donkey, camping out every night, and from Luxor to Kossair on the Eied Sea on a dromedary. I must go back first to Cairo to get a tent, bedstead, &c. I have talked it over with a very experienced Egyptian traveller. He says it is perfectly safe, especially in the desert among the Bedouins, who are gentlemen. The Egyptian Arabs are hardly that. I shall learn two things by doing this journey; (1) Arabic, (2) cooking. I expect to take a week getting to Luxor, where I must stay a day or two to arrange about camels. From Luxor to Kossair will take another week. At Kossair there is a missionary station (American Presby- terian). I am advised not to put on native dress, because the European is more awe-inspiring." " Cairo, Jan. 17, 1882. " I am at Cairo now getting together my necessaries for the journey which I contemplate. I have got vermi- celli, rice, chocolate, preserved meats, Liebig's extracts, salt, rope and cord, a measure, soap, sardines, preserved curry, cocoa, two stew-pans, two basins (tin), kettle, knives, forks and spoons, three tin mugs, soup-ladle, fan to blow up the fire, tea, brandy, whisky, &c Just bought a mattress and pillow for 10s. I have been racing about bazaars all the afternoon: I have made some capital bargains." "AssiOUT, Jan. 25, 1882. " I came away from Cairo on Saturday last, and stay here till Monday week, when I hope to start for my little expedition southwards. I am sending to Cairo for a Assiout : Home. Ill revolver ; I think it is better to take some little precau- tions I am dreadfully lonely here It is curious that the French consul invaded me this morning, mistaking me, I suppose, for someone else, and commanded me to return to France immediately." So far as I can remember, the French consul fancied that he had found in Keith-Falconer a Frenchman who was " wanted " by the police for some misdeed or other, regardless of the fact that Keith-Falconer had come to Assiout two months before with introduction to a well- known resident, and him a Scotchman, and that his ap- pearance and height were certainly not those of a French- man. Eager however to manifest his zeal, he actually forced his way into Keith-Falconer's bedroom before he had risen, and was only with some difficulty convinced of his error. Just at this time, when the journey through the desert had been planned and provided for, Keith-Falconer had a second attack of fever; and though happily it was not severe, still on his recovery he felt it to be wiser to give up the scheme and return to Europe. He reached Cannes early in February and remained there till the end of March, when he left for G-enoa, pro- ceeding thence to Siena. Here he stayed for about a month, largely with the view of increasing his knowledge of Italian, and on his return passed through Milan and visited the Italian lakes. After his long absence from home, he now turned his steps to England, which he reached on the 12th of May, in remarkably good health and spirits, and bent upon again trying the experiment of a bicycle ride from the Land's End to John o' G-roat's House. To get himself into thoroughly good condition for his expedition he essayed first the shorter journey from Cambridge to the Lakes ; and then on June 1, travelled down with his "■ machine '* to Penzance, waiting for a favourable day to start. 112 Assiout: Home. Of the journey he then undertook he wrote a detailed account at the time, which appeared in an Aberdeen news- paper and in the London Bicycle Club Gazette. There is a good deal of racy freshness and vigour about it which in- duces me to reproduce it here at full length. " First day. I left the Land's End point at 4.5 a.m. on Monday, 5th inst,, with a S.W. wind blowing me along. Sixty-five minutes' riding brought me over 10| miles of rough hilly road to Penzance. Passing through Hayle, Camborne, and Eedruth, Truro (36 miles) was reached at 7.40. The smooth macadam road from Eedruth to Truro struck me as being singularly good for an English road, but I have since been informed that it was made by a wily Scot who was awarded a prize for it. Leaving Truro at 9.0, a very swift ride brought me in sight of Bodmin (60 miles) at 10.45. Heavy rain was now falling and necessi- tated an hour's halt. I had not got 6 miles out of Bodmin when a second and more violent storm of rain and mist gave me a bath all for nothing. So I pulled up again at a lonely village called Jamaica, owing to its remote situation (70 miles). Here I sat for five and a half weary hours at a little temperance inn, for there is no public-house in Jamaica. A copy of Butler's * Dissertation on Virtue,' which I found here, served, I hope, to reconcile me to the weather. It was the driest experience I had that day. Starting once more, I rode gingerly over a succession of tremendous hills into Launceston, of beautiful situation (81 miles), where I realised that tea in dripping clothes is unpleasant. About 10 p.m. the river Tamar, which sepa- rates Cornwall from Devon, was crossed, and two miles further on I pulled up for the night at Lifton (85). " Second day. The next day was fine, and the ride through Okehampton (100) to Exeter (121), though abound- ing in difficult hills, and severe collar work, was pleasant enough, the scenery being lovely all the way, and the air most exhilarating. At Exeter I entered on a plain, and pursuing a fine level road, soon reached Taunton (152), one of the cleanest, pleasantest, and most flourishing of English country towns. From here a delightful spin in the dark over a smooth country lane brought me to Lang- Assiout : Home. 113 port (166) about 11 p.m. A long argument with a com- mercial traveller kept me up till one o'clock, the consequence being that next day I was good for nothing (besides having failed to convince the commercial). "Third day. During the ride through Somerton (171) to Glastonbury (183), I became the victim first of stupidity, then of maUce. A waggoner seeing me about to overtake him pulled very suddenly to the wrong side, and sent me sprawling over a heap of flints. No harm done. Shortly after a wilful misdirection given me by a playful Somer- tonian sent me 2J miles in the wrong direction, so that I traversed 12 instead of 7 miles between Somerton and G-lastonbury. Wells Cathedral (188) was one of the few sights which I lingered to see. It is gorgeous. Then came the long ascent of the Mendip Hills, and I shall never for- get the view of the Somerset Plain obtained from the top. At the summit of the steepest part the Bicycle Union has placed one of its boards, inscribed " To cyclists this hill is dangerous." A beautiful ride took me shortly to the city of Bath (208), whose glory has departed. Once up tjtie long hill out of Bath, progress became rapid, and the third night was spent at Didmarton, a G-loucestershire village (225). Here a commercial gentleman told me that three well-known cricketers (who are brothers) learnt all their cricket from their mother, who, he told me, knows more about the art than any of her sons ! " Fourth day. A pleasant if uneventful ride led through Tetbury (231), Cirencester (241), celebrated for its scien- tific college of agriculture, Burf ord (258), Chipping Norton (269), Banbury (282) to Southam (296?). Here my troubles, which never come singly, began. Rain com- menced falling, which soon wetted me through, I lost my road and went quite a mile and a half out of the way, and shortly before reaching Rugby (309), the spring broke. But I felt so well and fit that I could not be glum. So, on reaching this town, I promptly took the machine to a mechanic, who had it plated and made stronger than be- fore by next morning, and myself to the Three Horse- Shoes Hotel, where I received every attention. " Fifth day. Sunshine and rain alternated rapidly until the afternoon. My road lay through Lutterworth (316), 114 Assiout: Home. Leicester (328), Melton Mowbray (343 J, Graiitliam (359), Newark (374), to Retford (394). The last 10 miles were done in the dark, rendered more intense by the rain-clonds. To ride along a stony road on a dark rainy night is a most severe trial of nerve and temper. One cannot see the stones to avoid them, and each time the wheel goes over one, the machine is jerked up, or thrust on one side, and the rider gets a shake that makes his heart jump into his mouth, and brings to mind unparliamentary language. Retford was reached at 11 p.m., and when I asked the landlord of the White Hart whether he often put up bicy- clists, he looked at me severely and replied, ' Yes, but not so late as this.' However, I met with every attention here. I got wet through twice to-day, and hardly slept a wink all night — nerves a little overwrought I suppose. " Sixth day. On emerging from the hotel I found to my horror that a furious north-west wind was blowing. I struggled on as far as Doncaster (412), when I became sick of fighting against that strong man, and threw up the sponge. After a good dinner at the ' Reindeer,' I went to bed for a couple of hours, expecting that the wind would lull in the evening — it did so, but of course the road got bad then. A wet greasy oolite road, rendered more de- lightful by the recent gyrations of a feathery traction- engine, is a treat not soon forgotten by the bicyclist. I enjoyed it this evening. Riding was only possible here and there. I tried to make myself believe that I was on a walking tour, and had taken the machine with me to come in handy now and then. About 11.30 p.m. I tramped into Wetherby (443). Two friendly policemen aided me in making sufficient noise to awaken the landlord of the inn here. " Seventh day. The wind, still N.W., was blowing gently to-day, and did not impede perceptibly. The road improved gradually to Borobridge (455). Instead of run- ning straight from here to Durham, through Northallerton and Darlington, I chose the celebrated Leeming Lane, a smooth flat bit of road full thirty miles long, and often selected for trotting matches. It is properly the high road to Carlisle, via Scotch Corner and Oreta Bridge. The lane has little traffic on it, and steers clear of towns. High Assiout : Home. 115 speed was made through Leeming, Catterick {4*77), Scotch Comer (482), where the road to Carlisle bends off, and jou can see the violet hills of the border country in the dis- tance, Pierce Bridge, and over a range of hills to West Auckland (495), all black and grimy with coal-dust, and Bishop Auckland (498), hard by, where the Bishop of Durham resides. Dined here, and met with a young Japanese who was interesting. Then on to Durham (508) through Spennymoor, and thence via Chester-le-Street to Newcastle-on-Tyne (523). The county of Durham may boast of considerable natural beauties, but commercial en- terprise has introduced into the landscape so many features of ugliness that the traveller is glad to leave it behind. The high-level bridge which unites G-ateshead and New- castle is a grand structure. I had now scored 84 miles since the morning, and hearing from a policeman that I could get comfortably lodged at an inn six miles on, I thought I might complete the 90 miles before halting for the night. In due time Six Mile Brig hove in sight. It was a dirty little colliery village. But I was tired, hungry and wet, and the hour was eleven. So I thundered at the doors of all the inns I could find. No answer, except at one place, where a woman looked from a window and told me that the house was full, which, of course, was quite true. I shall take care that Dash Mailes, Esq., the land- lord of the ' hotel ' which the policeman recommended, re- ceives a copy of this account. A merry Northumbrian, prompted by that temporary feeling of generosity inspired by strong drink, vowed he would not leave me till he saw me safely housed, and made the locality reverberate with shouts of ' Tom,' and * Jack,' and ' Bill,' but T., J., and B. slept quietly on. At length a tall man came up and offered me a night's lodging, as well as food. I accepted. The house to which he took me was a pitman's lodging-house. He was a pitman. His landlord — also a pitman — and family lived downstairs, and he upstairs. The landlord was directed to prepare supper. A vast pot of tea and a measureless pile of spice-cake, with butter, soon adorned the festive board. I had ridden 30 miles from Bishop- Auckland without tasting a morsel of food or drink ; so I did not count the cups of tea or the planks of cake which 116 Assiout : Home. I consumed — I was afraid of getting into double figures. Then half a pipe of twist (for experiment) and upstairs to lie down till it was light enough to go on. " Eighth day. I was up with the lark, and amused with it too, and shortly found myself in Morpeth (537), eight miles on. Here, as might be expected, I had one of numerous baths and a breakfast worthy the name. Also made the acquaintance of a Presbyterian tailor, full of theology, politics, and good nature. Nineteen miles of fresh open country over a fine macadam road brought me to Alnwick (556). My old enemy the north-west wind got very boisterous now, and I was forced to resume the walk- ing tour, taking the machine along with me, in case it might be of use again in the dim future. The wind was terribly cutting as well as powerful, but a blue jersey, bought at Alnwick, kept me as warm as a toast. Of course I missed my way going out of Alnwick. I always do when other troubles are on hand. They never come singly, and nothing succeeds like success. But the hardest blow was yet to fall. A few miles out of Morpeth my right foot began to hurt at the back ; but I thought nothing of it, as I only felt it when walking up a hill. But the walking tour from Alnwick to Belford (572) caused so much pain that resignation and defeat seemed a matter of minutes. However an hour's rest at Belford did good, and on I went. The wind was cruel, and forced me to walk most of the way to Berwick (587). I limped in about 10.30 p.m. and put up at the Red Lion. "Ninth day. Foot better to-day, and by leaving the boot unbuttoned I seemed to give it the requisite relief. Fortunately I had no walking tour to-day. The wind was still strong, but the road was grand, and 29 miles of hard pushing brought me to Dunbar (616). At this point the road turns in sharply to the west and I felt the wind but little as I rode through Haddington (627), and Traneant (636), into Edinburgh (645). Our city on a beautiful summer's evening presents a spectacle not equalled any- where else. Quitting Edinburgh shortly after 9 p.m., a ride of an hour and a-half over the finest and smoothest stretch of road I have ever been on in my life brought the traveller to the * Star and Garter ' at Linlithgow (661). • Assiout : Home. 117 The Town Council had been * riding the marches ' to-day — an arduous proceeding I should suppose, and one re- quiring substantial refreshment. " Tenth day. When I awoke the rain was pattering on the window-panes, and a keen N.W. wind was blowing. A shudder, a resolve, a leap, and I was dressing quickly. The road to Falkirk (669) I found hilly, rough, lumpy, and slippery. Add to this wind and rain, and the result is misery. At Falkirk I stopped. Cook let me stand before the kitchen-fire while she prepared breakfast. At 9.30 the rain stopped and I continued. The wind was rising rapidly. More walking tour. Though I tramped most of the way to Stirling (680) and thence to Dunblane (687), my foot gave no trouble. I fondly thought that it had got well. At Bridge of Allan (683 J) I dined, and slept an hour. At Dunblane the road turns sharply to the west ; and thence to Crieff (704), by Muthill and 'Perth (721), the ride was pleasant and prosperous. Dunkeld (736) was reached at 11 P.M. " Eleventh day. To-day was a failure. After passing Blair-Athole (756), the glen becomes rapidly higher and narrower. The wind came sweeping down as through a funnel. There was a strong draught. Another walking tour. After three miles my foot began to complain. Once past Struan Inn there is no other until you get to Dalwhinnie, twenty miles distant. At Dalnacardoch I was in such pain that I was obliged to invade a fann-house and ask for rest and food, which I got at rather a high figure. Then on past Dalnaspidal Station, over Drumochter Pass to Dalwhinnie at the head of Loch Ericht (780). It was now eight o'clock, and I had only covered 44 miles since morning. At the Loch Ericht Hotel the medical skill of Dr. Peyton, of Broughty-Ferry, worked wonders, and the next day saw me traverse 105 miles with ease and pleasure. ''Twelfth day. Newtonmore (789), Kingussie (793), Aviemore (805), and Carr-Bridge (811) succeeded one another rapidly. The scenery along the road from here, via Loch Moy (822) and Daviot (831), to Inverness (837), was glorious. The day too was lovely, and not a breath stirring. Leaving Inverness at six, I rode rapidly through 118 Assiout : Home. . Beauly (847), Dingwall (859), and Invergordon (872), to Tain (884), where the last night on the road was spent. Two miles before Tain the road forks right and left. No guide-post is there to direct the stranger. It was nearly- midnight. Fortunately I descried a light in a window, and procured the necessary information. This reminds me that I did not see a single guide-post in Scotland, except two close by John o'G-roats, put up at the repeated request of an English tourist, Mr. Blackwell (the first bicyclist who rode from end to end of our island). Why is this ? In England they abound. " Thirteenth and last day. I rose to find my foot horribly stiff and painful. But the day was fine, no wind, and only 110 miles more to run. Starting at 9.20, I ran hard to Bonar-Bridge (899), over the Mound to Grolspie (920), where I dined, and slept an hour. Leaving at 4, I ran rapidly through Brora (926) to Helmsdale (938). I had limped up the Ord of Caithness by sunset. At Berrie- dale (948) it was raining hard. At Dunbeath (954) I stopped to have tea and bathe my foot, which had been tried severely by the 4 -mile limp up the Ord. Wick (975) I reached about midnight. After refreshing and nursing myself for an hour and a-half at the Station Hotel, I started again, to the blank astonishment of landlord, boots, and waiters. The utter solitude, stillness, and dreariness of the remaining 19 miles made a most remarkable im- pression on me. Not one tree, bush, or hedge did I see the whole way — only dark brown moor and a road straight as a rule. At twenty minutes past three I stood stiff, sore, hungry, and happy before John o'Groat's House Hotel. I had ridden 994 miles in 13 days less 45 minutes. This gives an average of ^Q to ^J"? miles a day. I had no diffi- culty in rousing the landlord, and was soon asleep. Thus ended an interesting and amusing ride. " I have only to add that the machine which carried me is a 58-incher, built by Humber and Marriott, of Queen's Road, Nottingham, and w^eighing 45 lbs. As an illustra- tion of the perfection of this bicycle, I may mention that the hind wheel, which revolves 1,000 times a mile, ran from Dunkeld to John o'G-roat's (a distance of 260 miles) without being oiled on the way. Thus it made over a Assiout : Home, 119 quarter- million revolutions on the strength of a single lubrication ! " The summer of this year was spent partly at Keith-Hall and partly in London. It does not, however, present any incident specially worthy of record. His studies and his work for Mr. Charrington fully engrossed Keith -Falconer's time. CHAPTEE VII. CAMBRIDGE. MARRIAGE. KALILAH. " I would the great world grew like thee, Who grewest not alone in power And knowledge, but by year and hour In reverence and in charity." Tennyson, In Memoriam. For the two years preceding October, 1882, Keith-Falconer had, as we have seen, resided but little at Cambridge ; most, however, of the ensuing three years, except the vaca- tions, was spent there. The beginning of term found him in his old quarters on the Market Hill, as keen a student as when of old there was an examination ahead to be worked for. To so thorough and careful a scholar, the Kalilah meant a far larger amount of labour than it might have been supposed would be required by a translation of a fairly easy Syriac book. Still the text existed but in one MS., and that most corrupt, and even with all the emendations of Dr. Wright and Professor Noldeke, Keith-Falconer found abundant material on which to exercise his critical acumen. We must speak in some detail of the nature of this book, when we come to the time of its publication. It is not, however, to be supposed that his book, un- grudging as was the labour he devoted to it, absorbed the bulk of his time : his engrossing study was Arabic, in which he was now reading such difficult books as the Mo'allakat and Al-Hariri. Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. 121 K he had been asked at this time why he gave so pre- ponderating an amount of time to Arabic, which at no time he felt to have any direct bearing on the exegesis of the Bible, and whose literature was quite unconnected with his Biblical studies, he would have said that the language itself had a wonderful attraction for him ; the labour was its own reward. We must now turn to some other aspects of his life. In a letter to Miss Bevan, written at the beginning of this term, he gives an amusing account of the success of one of his friends, an Irishman, in his examination : — ** Cambridge, Oct. ^22, 1882. *'E, was here yesterday. He told me how he got a first class in his Little-Go. He and another man had worked for it more or less together. E of course had hardly looked at the subjects, while his acquaintance, a shy, nervous man, had conscientiously gone through all the sub- jects, and worked eight hours a day all the term. " The nervous man when called upon for viva voce turned ashy pale, and was so overcome by his feelings'that he was unable to utter a single syllable and was told to stand down. Meanwhile Paddy was enjoying it rather than otherwise from his seat. Presently the name of E was called out. Patrick saunters quietly up. It is needless to say that this was the first time that he had been introduced to his subject. After taking his seat, and arranging himself very deliberately indeed, he takes stock of the examiner, who is a red-bearded, pale, stern-looking man. Patrick is directed to construe at such and such a place. He replies 'Certainly, Sir.' After examining the passage for a few moments and satisfying himseK that an attempt would be absolutely hopeless, he looks up, bends forward and gazing steadily into the examiner's face, whispers in tones of im- pressive earnestness, ' Anywhere but there. Sir.' The stern one is taken by storm and shakes with laughter and lets him go on wherever he likes ! Paddy succeeds in choosing a particularly easy passage, and not only passes the viva voce, but gets through the whole exam, with a first-class. His hard-working, conscientious friend only gets a second." 122 Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. Early in the following- month, Mr. Moody paid a visit to Cambridge. The visit was one which many remember with gratitude, and the tone of more than one College was dis- tinctly raised. From another letter to the same : — " Cambridge, Nov. 6, 1882. " Moody has commenced. I was at the first meeting which took place yesterday (Sunday) in the Corn Exchange. It began at 8 a.m. sharp. There were more than 1,000 people present, chiefly townsfolk. At 8.30 p.m. there was a meeting for University men only. There came fully 1,600 men, nearly all of them undergraduates. I am afraid many of them could not hear, and that was some excuse for the occasional bad behaviour which marred the meeting. Fancy applauding a prayer ! A large number remained to the after-meeting. Moody said that he was quite satisfied. Meetings go on all this week. Moody spoke on Daniel. Towards the end I thought he was very impressive." All this time Keith- Falconer was very much occupied with his work in connection with the mission at Mile-End, of which he was Honorary Secretary, and had published his pamphlet, of which I have already spoken, A Flea for the Tower Hamlets Mission. It is true that the great mass of work devolving on Mr. Charrington required that there should be also a secretary living in the midst of the work and devoting his whole time to it ; still Keith-Falconer's post was very far from being a nominal one. It must be remembered that at this particular time the special anxiety of the workers was not mainly that of carrying on a gigantic machine, but also of obtaining funds to erect a building commensurate with their needs. The sum requisite for this purpose was believed in 1882 to amount to ^824,000 ; it really has proved to be ^632, 000. All this entailed a large correspondence on Keith -Falconer. In writing a business letter he was exceedingly business-like : his facts were put in the clearest and most methodical way. A Cambridge, Marriage. Kalilah. 123 letter from him asking for a subscription was no effusive appeal ; it was a quiet, sensible statement of facts, all the more cogent because the writer had shewn himself anxious to take all possible pains to do justice to his case. Besides all this, frequent flying visits were paid to Mile- End, and in all every opportunity of doing good was caught at. As one who knew him well said, " He never seemed to be able to come anywhere, without trying to do good to somebody." Numbers of men and women received from him in right form, right degree, and in the truest and wisest Christian kindliness, just that help the case needed, bodily or spiritual. Of this, one typical case has already been given in detail. To shew how his kindness was some- times appreciated, I may note that there lives a certain cabdriver in Whitechapel, who was always most genuinely anxious to be allowed to drive liim anywhere about London for nothing. In Cambridge, besides his' interest in the Barnwell Theatre Mission, he had always on hand cases calling for individual aid. These did not assume with him, as a rule, the easy form of taking a piece of money out of his pocket and giving it to some importunate applicant, the truth of the appeal doubtless varying inversely with the impor- tunity. Again and again he spent a great amount of time and pains to adapt the aid exactly to the case which appealed to him. Thus on one occasion he spared no trouble to obtain situations on a railway for a man and boy ; he aided a man who had come down in the world to emigrate ; he gave a helping hand in more ways than one to a ?aan who was struggling bravely upwards. Of help given to students in Cambridge he was most generous, and I shall speak of it later on. In the spring of 1883, he was appointed one of the examiners for the Tyrwhitt Hebrew Scholarships, for which he had himself competed successfully in 1879. In this and on other occasions when he acted as examiner, he shewed a 124 Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. thoroughness and carefulness that I have not often seen equalled. He went over the ground on which he was to examine as minutely as if he were one of the keenest com- petitors himself, so that the paper fairly represented the whole field of work. I remember well his bringing me a copy of a paper he had just set in an examination, and asking, "Now do you call this paper quite fair? I really think no one can say that I have not tried to do justice to each part." In assigning the marks to the papers sent up by candi- dates he was also, I hardly need add, exceedingly careful. Of this an illustration may be given. Sometimes, in exam- inations in Hebrew, it became his duty to set " pointing." ^ To assign the marks properly for a piece of pointing re- quires exceptional care, otherwise a very false result may be obtained. This Keith-Falconer felt, and accordingly to judge fairly of each man's mistakes he adopted the fol- lowing plan. For each candidate he took a second copy of the unpointed Hebrew and himself entered in it solely those points which the student had written wrongly. By having them all clearly before him in this form, he was enabled thoroughly to judge of the amount of marks to be deducted in each case. The summer Keith-Falconer spent quietly at Keith- Hall, in work on the Kalilah and at Arabic ; and in Sep- tember he attended the Congress of Orientalists atLeyden. Presumably this, like other similar gatherings, is mainly meant to promote esprit de corps, and to give men of like pursuits the opportunity of seeing one another, rather than actually to instruct the visitor. At any rate, Keith-Fal- coner writes, " The Congress, as far as I can make out, is a failure as regards its ' labours,' and a success as regards its convivial gatherings." It had long been his wish to obtain a lectureship in ' This expression has been explained above, p. 45. Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. 125 Cambridge, and on his return to the University in Oc- tober, 1883, he was offered and accepted the post of He- brew lecturer at Clare College. He had in a very high degree the gift of teaching. Thoroughly master of his subject, he could also tho- roughly realise the standpoint of the beginner. One who knew him well, writes of this time : — " He took just as much pains in teaching the stupidest man as the cleverest. He often said he did not mind men being ever so stupid, if only they did their best, and did not try to appear clever. He was a born teacher, as I know from experience — he always went to the bottom of a subject, and made it so clear that no one could help understanding. At the same time, he believed in his pupils puzzling out things for themselves, as much as they possibly could, and would only explain when he thought they had done their utmost." It was not merely that he possessed the gift of lucidity in a remarkable way; he shewed an exceptional amount of kindness in the use of it. If at his lectures, painstaking and clear as he was, a student still failed to grasp the difficulties, again and again would he invite him to his rooms, or after his marriage to his house, and there give his time ungrudgingly. On some occasions, being thrown into contact with men who had either been badly grounded by previous teachers, or who needed more individual help than lectures would furnish, he gave them all the help which could be ren- dered by a private tutor, and, having regard to the means of those thus helped, he refused in every case but one to accept the ordinarily recognised University fee. In the one exception, the money was sent as a contribution to Addenbrooke's Hospital, half in his own name, half in the pupil's. He was appointed in this year one of the examiners for the Theological Tripos, and took part in the examination 126 Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. of January, 1884, and also in that held under the new system in the following June. When the work on the January Tripos was finished and the list published, he left for Cannes, where he resided during February, and spent a good deal of time in pre- paring his papers for the next Tripos. On February 29 he writes : — " .... A short-sighted lady, sitting next me in church, told her husband afterwards that next her had sat a very naughty boy, who drew pictures all through the sermon, and that she had been on the point of stopping him " On Wednesday I had a most delightful ride on a tri- cycle across the Esterelles to Frejus. Once at the top, I cocked my legs up and went spinning down for miles with- out doing a stroke of work." On March 4, he was married, at Trinity Church, Cannes, to Miss Grwendolen Be van, daughter of Mr. E. C. L. Bevan, of Trent Park, Hertfordshire. After the wedding, they spent some time at St. Raphael, near Frejus, where the quiet, picturesque neighbourhood greatly delighted him, and went thence, by way of Marseilles, to the neighbour- hood of Naples. Here they duly inspected Pompeii and Capri, and ascended Vesuvius by the funicular railway. By the middle of April, Keith-Falconer had brought his wife to Cambridge, and resided during the May term and Long Vacation in the house previously occupied by the late Professor Fawcett, in Brookside. The term was a busy one. He had spent some time on his papers for the June Tripos at the beginning of the year, but a good deal still remained to be done, and the actual work of examination was itself considerable. His work as lecturer, interpreted in the generous way in which he viewed his post, also drew largely on his time ; and be- sides all this, he had his Arabic and the Kalilah. The house he was occupying had been taken only for six months; but in the course of the summer he found Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. 127 one that suited him in the Station Road, which had just been vacated by Lord Rayleigh, on his resignation of the Professorship of Experimental Physics, and took the house on lease before leaving Cambridge for September. The vacation was spent in Scotland, partly at home at Keith-Hall, and partly on a bicycle tour in West Suther- landshire, with his friend Mr. E. , already spoken of in the present chapter. The following two extracts from letters written to his wife shew the nature of the tour and bring out the sj^irit in which Keith-Falconer entered into a holiday. " INSCHNADAMPH, Sept. 13, 1884. *' I wish you were here to enjoy this wonderful country. Excepting as to strong air, I think the Braemar district is distinctly inferior to this. The charm lies principally in the astonishing variety of lochs. We have seen dozens of all sizes and shapes. E, turned up at Inverness as arranged, appearing on the scene in a wonderful fur- trimmed ulster ! We got to Lairg about 4.30 the same day. After tea and having put on our riding clothes and labelled our bags to Lochinver, we rode off at 7.15 to Altnahara Inn (21 miles). We had to go carefully most of the way, as the darkness came on at 8. E. went off the handles once. Next day we rode across to Tongue, where we sighted the North Sea. On the way we took a dip in Loch Loyal. Dinner at Tongue. We had a job to get across the Kyle. It was very low water and we had to wade some distance before we got to the boat. We had a talk with the boatman, who said he had been praying and searchmg for many years, but ' couldna find Him.' We took an age to ride seven miles across the Moine, a dangerous swamp, to Hope Ferry. " E. was nearly run away with down the hill, which might have killed him. It is the steepest, longest and most winding hill I have ever seen. Hope River and Ben Hope looked most grim and black in the dusk. The ferry is crossed by a chain-bridge. We pushed on three miles further to Heilim Ferry on Loch Eriboll, which is really an inlet of the sea. An inn is marked on the map, but on 128 Cambridge. Marriage. KaJilah. arriving at the house, we found it was no longer an inn. A little blarney from R worked like an ' open sesame/ and we got tea and beds ; but it was a rough place. Here we had a dip in the dark just before going to bed. " Next day across Loch Eriboll by boat and then seven miles of up and down to Durness, We found the hotel occupied chiefly by a shooting party R was very unwell at Durness, so we staid there all day. Next day a glorious run to Scourie, through Rhiconich, and from Scourie to Kyleskee Ferry. The first thing we did here was to plunge oH a rock into deep, clear water. Then tea. Another bathe next morning. After doing seven miles to Scaig Bridge, I sent R on to Inschnadamph (where we are now), while I rode to Lochinver, most of the road skirting Loch Assynt. Coming away from there, I had a fall over the handles, consequently my right hand looks rather ghastly. To-morrow to Ullapool or Lairg. .... This place is 36 miles from the rail and we have not been so near since leaving Tongue." In another letter to the same he thus gives his general impressions of the country : — " We have had the most gorgeous day that mortal man could enjoy. Balmy air, soft fanning breeze, magnificent scenery, piles of mountains wrapt in soft, dreamy haze, profusion of lakes and bays dotted with little rocky islands and reflecting the scenery so perfectly that one hardly knows whether one is standing on one's head or one's heels ; a human being only encountered at rare intervals, charming bathing, salt and fresh, at every turn ; a clean, cheap little inn about every 15 miles. R comes off his machine every quarter of an hour. Happily his cranium is thick." On this Mr. R remarks, " I only three times nearly broke my neck." The beginning of October saw Keith -Falconer settled in his new house at Cambridge, 5, Salisbury Villas, in the Station Road. Here he had a large pleasant study look- Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilak. 129 ing out on a good-sized garden, in which the sometimes very audible whistle of the trains no more affected him than the noises from the Market-Place had done in old days. It would seem to have been towards the end of the year 1884 that the idea of work in the foreign mission field first definitely entered Keith-Falconer's mind. He had, it is true, often thought, but only in a very vague way, that he might possibly go abroad some day as a missionary. Among his heroes for years past had been Dr. John Wilson, the well-known Scotch missionary. As far back as 1878, he thus writes to a friend : — " Mind to get hold of Dr. George Smith's Life of John Wilson, D.D., F.E.S., the great Scotch missionary of India. He was a Free Church man ; every Indian missionary must sit at his feet. He was probably the greatest Indian scholar that has yet appeared. This is most extraordinary, as he gave most of his time to mission-work. He also made a name in geology ! His powers of memory were something incredible. As for his toils for the people of India, the biographer writes, ' From Central India to Central Africa, from Cabul to Comorin, there are thousands who call John Wilson blessed.' .... The author too is a very distinguished writer on Indian subjects." Nor was this warm admiration for Wilson a mere fleet- ing fancy, to be forgotten when the next new book brought a fresh hero forward. On his last visit to England in 1886, he constantly spoke with the same enthusiasm of this noble worker for Christ. When, towards the close of 1884, his intimate friend Mr. C. T. Studd, of Trinity College, had been accepted as one of the volunteers for the work of the China Inland Mission, Keith-Falconer's interest was greatly excited, and, with his wife, he was present at Mr. Studd' s farewell meeting in Cambridge early in 1885, and also attended the Oxford meeting. 130 Cambridge. Marriage. KalilaTi. It was not, however, till the February of the following year that the idea of any special place as his sphere of work occurred to him. The whole history, however, of the Aden project and of the immediate causes which led np to it is best reserved for independent treatment in the following chapter. Early in 1885, was published Keith-Falconer's book, on which an infinity of time and pains had been expended, the Kalilah and Dimnah, otherwise known as the Fables of Bidpai. This book, as I have already mentioned, when speaking of the beginning of the undertaking in 1881, is a translation from the Syriac, of which the text was pub- lished by Dr. Wright in 1884. It is unfortunately, with one minor exception yet to be spoken of, the only completed literary work Keith -Falconer has left behind him ; unfortunately, not alone from the standpoint of friends who mourn his loss, but also from that of scholars in general, who are taught by the fulness and accuracy of the work how much might have been looked for in years to come from one whose first essay was of so brilliant a promise. While of course it is not my intention to enter into any long account of the various forms of the text of which Keith-Falconer has spoken in his Introduction, it will at any rate be of interest to speak generally of the stories which make up the book, and of the special form of the text on which he worked. The book is more familiarly known to general readers under its name of Bidpai's or Pilpay's Fables, from the fact that several English and French translations, ulti- mately derived from an old Persian version, have been issued under that title. ■ As Keith-Falconer remarks in his preface, probably no book except the Bible has had so many readers, when re- gard is had to the array of various languages into which these Fables have been tranplated. Cambridge. Marriage, Kalilak. 131 They we're in their origin Indian, and formed a part of Buddhist literature. The Indian original no longer exists in its primary form, but there are extant Sanscrit writings in which it is embodied. The chief of these is the Pancha- tantra, of which the late Professor Benfey published a translation with an exhaustive Introduction. This, how- ever, is an elaborate and artificial expansion of the original work, of which we have a fairly faithful reproduction in the Kalilah and Bimnah. The present Fables are of an altogether different type from the ^sopic. In the latter, animals act as animals would; in the former they act as men in the form of animals. The name Bidpai, which occurs with great variety of different spellings, is that of an Indian philosopher, who tells a number of stories to the King his master, to enforce some particular rule of conduct, each story giving rise to a number of minor parenthetical stories. The first of these tales is that of Kalilah and Dimnah, which has thus given its name to the whole collection. Kalilah and Dimnah are simply two jackals, leading characters in the story told to illustrate the maxim, "When a false man comes between two loving brothers, he disturbs their bro- therly feeling and destroys their harmony." The collection of Indian stories passed into Persia not later than a.d. 570 ; and thence arose a version in Pehlevi, or ancient Persian, in which, it would seem, a Persian element became added. An ancient Tibetan version of part of the book, made directly from the Sanscrit, has recently been brought to light ; but the Sanscrit original and the Pehlevi version have unfortunately perished. From the lost Pehlevi, two surviving versions were derived, an older Syriac version made about a.d. 570, which has remained absolutely childless ; and an Arabic version, made about a.d. 750, from which all other known texts are derived. Directly drawn from the Arabic ara 132 Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. versions in no less than five distinct languages, Sjriac, Greek, Persian, Hebrew and Spanish; each of which, except the first, has been the parent of other versions. It is this later Syriac version which Keith-Falconer translated. Before proceeding to speak of this, it may be noticed that the Hebrew version, now known only by a unique MS., gave birth to the well-known Birectorium of John of Capua, and from this again are derived transla- tions into the German, Danish, Dutch, Spanish, Italian, English and French languages. Like the older Syriac version,^ so also the later Syriac is known solely by a unique MS. This MS., which was dis- covered by Dr. Wright in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin, and edited by him, is partly due to the thirteenth and partly to later centuries, and simply teems with errors. In the absence therefore of a second text to act as a corrective, conjectural emendations had frequently to be resorted to. Many of these were furnished by Dr. Wright and Professor Noldeke, and a large number are due to Keith-Falconer's own critical skill. That he was no feeble novice herein, making a few vague guesses, but resting mainly on the experience of older scholars, follows not only from the fact of his occasionally differing from these distinguished Orientalists, but from the high terms of approval in which they have themselves spoken of his work. To return, however, to this Syriac version itself. The translator j)robably lived in the tenth or eleventh century, and was a "Christian priest, living at a time when the Syrian Church lay in an utterly degraded state." ^ Pas- sages often have a different turn given to them, in order to bring in a Christian sentiment. ^ For a very interesting account of the way in which the unique MS. of this was brought to the knowledge of Europe, indirectly- through the Vatican Council, see Keith-Falconer's Introduction^ p. xliv. 2 Ibid. p. hx. Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. 133 As we have already observed, the fables are of an alto- gether different kind from the jEsopic. Many of them are very quaint and striking. The most pleasing of all is that of the Eingdove,^ but it is much too long to be quoted here. A curious interest, however, attaches to the Fable of The Ascetic and the Weasel."^ This is the story of a child born to an ascetic by a beautiful and much-loved wife, after she had long been childless. Even before the child is born, the wife has to check her husband from recklessly indulging in plans for the future of the child, when even its sex is not known. She bids him, ** Commit your affairs to Grod, and every- thing that is desirable in His sight and in accordance with His will shall come to pass." But, adds she, if a man plans things too soon, there will befall him the fate of the ascetic when he lost his honey and oil. Bidden to tell the story, she proceeds, " It is said that an ascetic derived his nourishment from a king, that is, the governor of a town, every day so much oil and so much honey. And whatever he had remaining, he used to pour into an earthenware vessel which he hung on a peg above the bedstead on which he slept. One day while sleeping on the bedstead, with the earthenware vessel full of oil and honey, he began to say within him- self : * If I sold this honey and oil, I might sell it for a dinar and with the dinar I might buy ten she-goats, and after five months they would have young, and after a lapse of five years these would have young and their number would become very large, and I should buy two yoke of oxen and a cow, and I should sow my fields and reap much com and amass much oil, and I should buy a certain number of servants and maid- servants, and when I had taken to myself a wife of beautiful appearance and she had borne me a handsome son, I should instruct him and he would be secretary to the king,' Now in his hand was a staff, and while he was saying these things, he kept ^ Kalilah and Di(nmah, p. 109. ' Ibid. p. 169. 134 Cambridge, Marriage, Kalilah, brandishing the staff with his hand, and struck the earthenware vessel with it and broke it, whereupon the oil and honey ran down on his head as he slept. So all his plans canie to naught, and he was confounded." Here, in somewhat other guise, is the well-known story of Alnaschar and his wares of glass. In due time the child was born, and on a certain day, the father had to be left in charge of it during the absence of the mother. " But when the woman had gone, a messenger from one of the chiefs of the town came for him and could not wait. So he left the boy and departed. Now they had in the house a weasel who used to help them in all their affairs, and did not leave a single mouse in the house without killing him. And he left him with the boy and went with the messenger. Whereupon there came forth a powerful snake and sought to kill the boy. And the weasel fought with the snake until he killed him and bit him into several pieces, and the body of the weasel was stained with the snake's blood. When the ascetic returned from the man who had sent for him and saw the weasel with his body stained with blood, he thought that the boy had been killed, and without searching into the matter, sprang on the weasel and killed him. When he had killed him, he looked and saw and lo the boy was alive. And he repented and was ashamed and brought upon himself grief and sighing, and he began to revile himself for mortification, saying to himself: 'Would that this boy had not been born, for then I had not been guilty of this murder.* And the woman returned and upbraided him, saying : * Did I not tell you not to be hasty and do things too soon before you had tried them, lest you should reap a bad end?'" Here is a story which, in some form or other, is found in the literature of nearly every civilised nation. It is of course specially familiar to us in the form in which, in the place of the weasel, appears the faithful dog Gelert, the Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. 135 imaginary eponym of Beddgelert, ' Gelert's grave,' in Carnarvonshire. The Introduction prefixed to the translation, extending over eighty-five large octavo pages, dwells on the literary history of the document, and on the history and biblio- graphy of the versions. It is a piece of work, which, for rich fulness of learning, critical acumen, and clearness of style, might well do credit to an older scholar than the young man of less than eight and twenty at the time of its completion. To the translation are appended notes, largely, but not wholly critical ; there being some very carefully worked out notes on the names of the persons in the story, &c. The remark was once made to me, half-seriously, half in jest, by one of the most distinguished of living scholars at Cambridge, with reference to the exceedingly long time often requisite for the writing of a short note, which to the general reader may seem to have cost but little trouble : — " I should often like to append a note to thia note ; * This note has taken me (so many) hours ! ' " This thought strikes one forcibly in some of the modest, unpre- tending notes in Keith- Falconer's Appendix. The work is most thorough, and none but a professed scholar can esti- mate how long a time some of those notes must have cost their writer. Of the various reviews of the book, I will refer but to one, that of Professor Noldeke, one of the foremost of living Oriental scholars, who concludes a very favourable notice with the words, " We will look forward with hope to meet the young Orientalist, who has so early stepped for- ward as a Master, many a time yet, and not only in the region of Syriac." ^ Although, as we have already said in the present chapter, Keith-Falconer's thoughts were beginning at this time * Gottingische gelehrte Anzeigen, no. 19, p. 757 (Sept. 15, 1885). 136 Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah, definitely to turn to Aden, which engrossed his mind more and more, he yet very cheerfully undertook, soon after the publication of the Kalilah, a somewhat troublesome piece of literary work, the article on * Shorthand ' for the new edition of the Encyclopcedia Britannica. I have spoken in an early chapter of Keith-Falconer's remarkable powers as a writer of phonography, besides which he had a consider- able, though general, knowledge of other systems. Still the work for the article involved a large amount of research and drew somewhat largely on his time. The article, which, in its printed form, runs to about thirteen columns in the large quarto of the Encycloj)cedia, gives a general sketch of the progress of shorthand in England, since the days of the first pioneers of the art. Dr. Timothie Bright and John Willis. The rudimentary forms of shorthand in use among the ancients were described by a different writer. Keith-Falconer states that of published English systems there have been no less than 483, the great majority being alphabetic, in which each letter has its own symbol. Thus of the 201 systems from Willis's time to Mr. Pitman's all but seven are alphabetic, the remainder being phonetic. Of Mr. Pitman's system, which, under its name of Phonography, was first published in 1840, a detailed account is given. This system is, it would seem, far more widely used than any other, and Keith-Falconer considered it to be the best of existing systems, though he makes some very just remarks on the wisdom of writers of different calibres adopting different methods. After a short account of the systems invented during the last half century, he gives a clear summary of the various methods in use in other countries, — Germany, France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Denmark. The article con- cludes with a concise bibliography on the literature of the subject. The essay is characterized both by its lucidity and its Cambridr/c. Marriage. Kalilah. 137 thoroughness. Thus Keith-Falconer paid a special visit to Oxford for the sole purpose of inspecting in the Bodleian two books spoken of in the article, the unique copy of Bright's Characterie (1588), and the anonymous work of Willis, the StenograpMe, of 1602, of which only one other copy is known. I speak from direct personal knowledge when I state that Keith-Falconer used every endeavour to acquaint himself with everything of worth written on the subject, and that the very large amount of preliminary reading can by no means be estimated by the mere length of the article. The Easter Vacation was spent at Cannes. Although Keith-Falconer could always thoroughly enjoy a well- earned holiday, yet his heart always turned back lovingly to his books. On April 8 he writes from Cannes : — " I am weary of idleness and want to get back to my books Old Scotland beats this place hollow in re- spect to scenery, but the climate here is wonderful." Not long before this time Keith-Falconer had arranged a matter of much interest, which has already been referred to in an earlier chapter in the note of the Master of Trinity ; his foundation of the Kintore Prizes at Harrow. These prizes, two in number, one open to the whole school and the other to the younger boys only, were designed to en- courage the intelligent reading of Scripture by the boys ; and to take the place of those which had for some years been given by Mr. Beaumont. The Kintore Prizes were first awarded in the summer of 1885, Keith-Falconer act- ing as Examiner on this occasion. The May term passed quietly by. The work of study and of teaching went steadily on, none the less that the new interest, of which we have to speak in the foUovdng chapter, became more and more engrossing. In the course of the term, Keith-Falconer was offered and accepted the post of Examiner for the Semitic Languages Tripos of the 138 Cambridge. Marriage. Kalilah. succeeding February. For this he set his share of the papers, though he did not return from Aden in sufficient time to take part in the actual work of examination. At the end of the term he resigned his college lectureship, which he had held since October, 1883. Eeady at all times to do all that in him lay to encourage a zeal for honest athletic exercise, Keith-Falconer accepted, on May 2, the post of President of a Cycling Club, that of the Cambridge Young Men's Christian Association. In the previous summer he had acted for them as judge at their fifth Annual Eaces, on August 14 ; but in August, 1885, he was unable to be present and again act as judge, and wrote a very kindly letter to the secretary regretting it, offering at the same time a prize for the winner in a four-miles bicycle race. August was spent at Trent Park and Keith-Hall, and in September, Keith-Falconer again went for a bicycle tour with his friend Mr. E , over much the same part of Sutherlandshire which they had visited in the previous year. One can hardly conceive a greater contrast than that which now awaited him. Fresh from " the hills, and heather, and lochs, and linns " of the wild north-west, he was now, after a very short visit to Cambridge, to find himself a dweller in the grim Arabian settlement of Aden. CHAPTER VIII. ADEN. " Um zu uberzeugen, sei du iiberzeugt ; Um zu riihren, sei du geriihrt." Sailer. There is probably no place on the whole surface of the habitable globe more utterly arid and dreary to the eye than Aden. A peninsula of black, volcanic rock, joined to the mainland by a low, sandy isthmus, a burning tropical sky, and an almost total absence of vegetation, form an uninviting picture. " It is not a place," writes a resident, " to which any one could possibly ever come for pleasure." Yet from the mission stand-point it is a place presenting a striking union of exceptional advantages. Before speaking of these, however, it will be well to attempt first a very brief general description of the place itself.^ Aden is situated on the south coast of the province of Yemen, in Arabia Felix, about 100 miles east of the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, where the waters of the Eed Sea meet those of the Indian Ocean. The rocky peninsula of which we have spoken is an irregular oval about five miles long from east to west, and three from north to south; and rises at its highest point to an elevation of over 1,700 feet above the sea-level. It encloses a good- ^ The fullest account of Aden known to me is Captain (now Major) Hunter's Account of the British Settlement of Aden in Arabia. London, 1877. 140 Aden. sized harbour, where steamers from Europe enter almost daily. At the western end of the peninsula is the small town known as Steamer Point, whose name sufficiently indicates its character. Here are several streets of stone houses, a church, several public buildings, and the coaling stations of Government and various shipping companies. This is the cooler end of the peninsula, as during the hotter months the breezes here come directly off the sea, whereas at Aden itself, built as it is in the crater of an extinct volcano, hot sandy winds prevail. From Steamer Point, a road passes through Maala, a village chiefly occupied by the Somalis, of whom mention must be made presently, and enters the Crater through what is known as the Main Pass Gate. Aden itself, at the eastern end of the peninsula, is a town consisting of about 2,000 houses, and a population of perhaps 20,000, and is divided into two nearly equal parts by the dry bed of a watercourse. The heat, as may well be supposed from the position of the town, is very great, the shade temperature ranging, it is said, from 75° to over 100°. The question of the water supply of Aden is naturally at all times a matter of great moment. The need is met in various ways ; from wells a few miles distant, in or near the village of Shaikh Othman, from which a large quantity is conveyed into Aden in leather-skins on camels and in boats. There is also an aqueduct from the above village, but the water thus conveyed is not fit for drinking purposes. A considerable supply is also obtained from the Tanks, large reservoirs which store up the rain-water. So steep are the hills, and so hard the rocks, and so slight is the coating of soil upon them, that very little of the rain is absorbed ; and thus in spite of the small rain-fall, a considerable body of water may altogether be stored. Besides all these sources of the water supply, a fair quantity of good water Aden. 141 is yielded by condensers, and it is this which is mainly used by Europeans for drinking purposes. As regards the history of the place/ we find that in 1538 the Turks became possessors of the province of Yemen, having overthrown the native Imams. After about a cen- tury of Turkish rule, the Imams regained their power, till in 1735 the Sultan of Lahej broke loose from his allegiance, possessed himself of Aden, and became the founder of a line of independent rulers. In the year 1837, an English vessel was wrecked near Aden, and the passengers and crew suffered ill-treatment at the hands of the Arabs. In consequence of this, it was agreed that, besides other com- pensation, the peninsula of Aden should be ceded to the English. A lack of good faith, however, was shewn in carrying out this arrangement, and the town was taken by assault on January 19, 1839, and was henceforward reckoned as part of the Bombay Presidency. It was thus the first acquisition of new territory to the Empire in the reign of Queen Victoria. What now, it may be asked, are the special missionary advantages of this place which can counterbalance its very obvious disadvantages ? First then may be noted its important geographical position. Only 10| days' journey from England, and nearly equidistant between Suez and Bombay, it may justly be called one of the great central points of the world. It is a coaling station for the steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental and other great lines ; so that the traffic of the world, long diverted into the route round the Cape of Good Hope, is now returning on its ancient lines. But secondly, it is not merely as a depot for foreign traffic that we must view Aden, great as is the importance which that gives the place, but as the point to which the caravans from the interior converge. These come into ^ Hunter, pp. 163, sqq. 142 Aden. Aden daily. At sunrise, hundred of camels, laden -witli coffee, fruit, fodder, grain, wood, water, and other things, are led into the town by their Bedawi drivers. The number of camels that entered Aden in the year 1875-76 amounted to no less than 267,845.^ Yet another advantage, and that one of the highest im- portance, lies in the fact that Aden is British territory, and that British influence extends far into the interior. It is estimated that the independent tribes between Aden and the Turkish frontier number about 120,000 souls, and these are subsidised by our Government, somewhat on the principle of the grants made to the Highland clans before 1745. In return, their good behaviour is secured, caravans can pass in safety, and risks of molestation to Europeans are much lessened. The sheikhs of these tribes come into Aden periodically for their money, and thus possibilities of intercourse are opened up into the interior. This last ad- vantage is obviously exceedingly great, and it is one upon which Keith -Falconer constantly insisted. Striking con- firmation of this is afforded by the following remarks which I extract from a paper by Major- General Haig, KE. :— "I have recently, while travelling through Yemen and visiting the Somali coast, had occasion to notice again and again what a powerful and far-reaching influence of this kind is exercised by Aden. I had no conception of it before. There are many things there which we regret and would gladly see altered ; but these things, though they may detract from, cannot obliterate, the impression made upon the surrounding races and countries by this scene of strong, just and wise government. Aden is visited by thousands from hundreds of miles all round — from Somali- land, from Hadramaut, from Yemen, from the countries along the Red Sea, and all take back with them an ideal of government to which in their own lands they are entire strangers. And often they may be heard contrasting the ^ Hunter, p. 86. AD E K qEI-Hauta>hX ""^Aderv \ GULF OF A F> E N Scale of English Miles. 0123*56783 10 Skui/brdls, Geoqy&^ii'^ Camtrid^e : Dei^litoii BeH & Co. Aden. 143 two conditions — the peace, the order, the liberty, the just administration of the law, the religious toleration (this of the Jews especially) to be found in Aden, with the very reverse of all these things everywhere else. I was con- stantly reminded of this in Yemen. Aden is known to the remotest corners of that magnificent country, and the people are quietly drawing their own inferences, and some- times manifesting preferences which are evidently not a little irritating to the Turkish authorities. How much more powerful for good would this influence have been if, instead of the timid policy that would avoid the place be- cause of the evils there, there had been men capable of presenting to its thousands of visitors in their own tongue that G-ospel which is the true basis of Christian civiliza- tion ! " ' Weighty and pregnant with grave significance to us, whether as Christians or as Englishmen, is that last sentence. Finally, two other points may be urged in connection with Aden. The Jews are scattered all over Yemen in con- siderable numbers,^ and a good-sized isolated community of them had their settlement near Aden. A very different race, the Somalis, must also be named. Of this people, who belong to the African race on the opposite coast, there are thousands in Aden, and at this point missionary ope- rations might be begun among them before continuous Work was attempted on the opposite coast. Taking all these things into account, it will be seen that a very promising field for missionary enterprise presented itself. Griven a missionary possessing the requisite quali- fications, indomitable zeal for the spread of the Gospel, a thorough command of Arabic, tact and judgement in plan and in action, and bodily strength which could endure the ^ *' On both Sides of the Red Sea," in the Church Missionary Intelligencer and Record for May, 1887 (p. 282). ^ Their numbers are estimated by Gen. Haig to be not less than 60,000. Ihid. June, p. 351. 144 Aden. burning heat of Aden — given all these, then under God's blessing, a door might indeed be opened from which Islam might be assailed under the most favourable con- ditions. That all these qualifications, except the last, were strikingly united in Keith-Falconer, must be obvious to all who knew him well. He had been a true-hearted servant of Christ throughout his life, and in gradually widening spheres of usefulness he had always sought to teach others how great was the blessing he himself possessed. He had a striking aptitude for the acquisition of languages, and had devoted several years of steady work to Arabic, in whose richness and fulness he took an ever-increasing delight. As we have seen, his patient study of the Arabic of books at Cambridge and at Leipzig had been supple- mented by a winter's residence in a rather out of the way part of Egypt, with a view to the colloquial use of the language. After his return to Cambridge in October, 1882, none of his other interests, and there were many, ever dulled his love for his Arabic, and had the role of the scholar pure and simple been the aim he set before him- self, and had his life been prolonged, it is certain that he would in time have ranked high, very high, among the Orientalists of the century. Such, however, was by no means his ideal. Pleasant and indeed useful as is the life of the scholar, pre-eminently pleasant as he ever felt his own Cambridge life to be, he believed that God had entrusted him with gifts which called for a wider field of exercise. He had, it is true, side by side with his studies engaged in works of evangelization and beneficence here in England ; but while to the last his heart was deeply bound up with the work that was being done at Barnwell, and at Mile-End, of which I have spoken in a previous chapter, still it seemed as if some scheme ought to present itself in which Christian zeal and lin- guistic power might work hand in hand, or rather, shall I Aden. 145 say, in which his intellectual attainments and his learning might be to him something more than a mere parallel interest, existing side by side with, but having no connec- tion with, work for Christ. Viewed in this light, the feeling deepens that in Keith- Falconer was to be found the true type of the champion of the Cross against Islam, the teacher of the Bible against the Koran, the herald proclaiming Jesus against the False Prophet. In Keith-Falconer's own heart and mind too this feeling had existed in a way for some time before it bore definite fruit ; a feeling of which he was only half conscious him- self, manifesting its presence by increased zeal in study, increased earnestness in the cause of the Gospel, combined all the time with a feeling of imcertainty, of craving for some line of work not yet apparent. In this state of things, with this impulse working underground, as it were, all that was wanted was the touch which should bring it to the surface, should combine his varied gifts, and make them work as one force to a definite end. I have said in the preceding chapter that towards the end of the year 1884, Keith-Falconer's thoughts first began to be definitely drawn to the foreign mission field, but as yet without reference to any special sphere of work. The way in which the idea of choosing Aden as the sphere of his labours first occurred to him was this. A paper had been written by General Haig, from whose interesting articles I have already quoted, strongly urging upon Christians the duty of attempting the evangelization of Arabia. A summary of this was published in the Christian newspaper in February, 1885 (no. 785, p. 13), where Keith- Falconer read it, and thenceforward the idea was slowly developed, from an interest in which the mind itself hardly realized how great a hold had been taken on it, to the day when, as though in answer to the question " Who will go for us ? " he answered, not with eager but evanescent zeal, L 146 Aden. not with vague, crude ideas, only half -formed and doomed by their very nature to faihire, but with a resolution as calm as it was deep, '* Here am I, send me." The immediate outcome of the perusal of G-eneral Haig's article was a request on Keith-Falconer's part for an inter- view, and he accordingly met the G-eneral in London on Feb. 21, 1885, to talk about Aden. In a letter to the l^resent writer, General Haig remarks : — " My impression of that conversation is that he came not only to get information, but to say that his mind was already made up to go out for six months and see what the place and prospects of work were like We joined in prayer that he might be guided and blest in all his thoughts about Arabia." Besides the advantages presented by Aden from the missionary stand-point, there might further be added the fact that the field was, broadly speaking, well-nigh un- trodden. I need not say that this remark is made with the fullest recognition of the important work done at Aden by the resident chaplain, who serves the two churches, at the Camp and Steamer Point respectively. His work, how- ever, moved in altogether different lines to that which Keith-Falconer was beginning now to picture more and more definitely to himself as his own. The chaplain's duty was to Aden viewed as a British possession and to minister to the Christian residents. He was expected not to work among the natives. Such work has of course in- finite possibilities of usefulness, but is an altogether diffe- rent work from the missionary's attack on a definite form of error. There was also, it is true, a Roman Catholic Mission, founded in 1840, and having chapels at the Crater, and at Steamer Point. As to this, Keith- Falconer, writing from Aden in January, 1886, remarks : — "The two chaplains, besides attending to the Roman Aden. 147 community (Europeans, G-oanese, Abjssinians, &c.), work among Somali outcasts and orphans ; but I am told that their converts generally lapse into Islam when they quit the Roman Catholic school. There is, besides, a convent at Steamer Point kept by sisters of the * Grood Shepherd,' where friendless girls of all nationalities are received and educated, and brought up in the Roman Catholic faith/ The sisters also keep a day-school which is purely secular. From all that I hear, the Roman Catholic missions in Aden have failed. It may fairly be said that nothing effective has yet been done in Aden to lead the people to a living faith in the Son of Grod." One of the two great English societies, the Church Mis- sionary Society, had about this time- considered the ques- tion of an Arabian mission, which had been urged upon them by General Haig. As a result of this. Dr. and Mrs. Harpur were sent out in October, 1885 ; and after remain- ing at Cairo for some months to study Arabic, went on to Aden in March, 1886 ; about the time when Keith-Falconer was leaving it at the end of his first visit. It may be interesting to add here that on General Haig's return to Aden in December, 1886, he and Dr. Harpur started on a missionary tour in a steamer along the Somali coast, and subsequently to Hodeida, on the Arabian side of the Red Sea.^ This place seemed to promise an important opening, and I understand that the Church Missionary Society has founded a station there. All this, however, was, it will be seen, subsequent to Keith- Falconer's first visit in November, 1885 ; and thus, with the qualifications of the man pre-eminently adapted to meet the special requirements of the place, there was the further satisfactory thought that he was not seeking to build on other men's labours. One disquieting thought, however, remained, the ques- ^ The Roman Catholic nuns have, since that letter was written, broken up their establishment. ' Haig, w. s. April, p. 219 ; June, p. 353. 148 Ade?i. tion whether the climate was one in which he and his young wife could live and work. If it should appear that the constitution of either was really unfitted to live in the terrible heat of an Aden summer, it would be clear that the idea must be given up ; it was but a passing impulse, not the direct call from God. To settle this question he spared no pains. He read carefully everything that he could find written about Aden, he consulted several gentlemen who had had long acquain- tance with Aden, and he sought the opinions of the highest medical authorities as to the personal case of himself and his wife. As the outcome of all this, he gradually became fully convinced that the attempt could be made satisfactorily, that the heat, though very great, was dry from the absence of vegetation, and therefore less exhausting, and that by the exercise of proper precautions it might be sufficiently borne. This conclusion afforded him very great satisfaction. "Well do I remember how day by day, as we met, he would tell with pleasure some piece of fresh favourable evidence. Thus it appeared that the percentage of sickness among the soldiers at Aden Camp was distinctly less than among those at Bombay. One day with exceeding glee he told me that an English lady, for some years a resident at Aden, had said to him, "It is hot certainly, but there were few days when I could not enjoy a game of tennis during some part of the day." This lady however lived, I fancy, at Steamer Point. Clear as might be his own belief on this subject, still it would naturally be with some reluctance that his friends could be brought to consent to his settling at a place which bore, justly or unjustly, so bad a name. To meet these not unreasonable scruples, he resolved upon the wise course of testing the place for himself by a temporary residence at Aden, sufficiently long to be con- Aden. 149 vincing, one way or the other, before absolutely taking the final resolve. Much will have to be said by-and-bye of Keith-Falconer's idea that a prominent part in the work of his mission should be that of the Hospital, where medical and surgical aid should be freely given to Arab and other applicants. He justly felt that the gratitude excited for help thus given might often, by God's blessing, lead men to listen atten- tively to the message which these helpers in their bodily needs sought to deliver to them. It was not from any idea that he could himself wisely take a leading part in this element of the work, but, as he humbly expressed it, that he " might be able to help the doctor a little," that for some time before this he had de- voted some attention to medicine and surgery ; and had accordingly attended some lectures, and seen a certain amount of operating work at Addenbrooke's Hospital at Cambridge. To know something about drugs, and to have some little familiarity with the practical details of surgery, were wise precautions on the part of a missionary, even though he had as his companion a properly qualified medical man. One point more remained to be settled, the question as to whether he should go absolutely as a free lance, or should associate himself more or less closely with some existing organization. This did not take long to settle. In spite of some advantages arising from the greater free- dom of action in the former case, the advantages on the other side, the sympathy and support from home, the sharing of the responsibility, the help to be had from the experience of others, were obviously preponderating. Nor, this settled, was there any question as to the body with which he should connect himself. His father had always been warmly attached to the Free Church of Scotland, and had been an elder of that Church ; and though educated in England, and having the highest esteem for the Church 150 Aden. of England, and counting some of her clergy among his most intimate friends, Keith-Falconer remained throughout a member of the Church in which as a child he had been brought up. Accordingly, after some preliminary correspondence, he met in conference the Foreign Missions' Committee of the Free Church on September 14, and, after generally describ- ing the nature of his proposed mission, asked to be in some way recognized by the Free Church. The Committee warmly accepted his offer, and commended him and his work " to the Great Head of the Church." All being at length settled, Keith-Falconer sailed with his wife from England on October 7, on this occasion taking the longer sea route by the Bay of Biscay. They reached Aden on October 28, and remained there till March 6 in the following spring. It will obviously be best to allow the story of the journey and of the residence at Aden to be told, as far as possible, in Keith-Falconer's own words. The extracts which follow are from a letter to his youngest sister written at sea : — " S. S. SUKAT, Oct. 13, 1885. " You would enjoy this if you were here. In four hours we shall be at Gibraltar ; the Spanish coast is visible. Unfortunately we shall not be allowed to land there, unless the quarantine has been raised, which is not likely The sea is dotted with sea-horses, but quite calm, at least the ship does not roll or pitch : the water is a dirty blue colour. You probably imagine we are revelling in warmth and sunshine. This is a great mistake. "We are on deck, but with our great-coats on, and would be in the saloon, but for the sake of the salubrious marine atmosphere. " We had a rough and dangerous time in the Bay of Biscay. . . . Shortly after passing Ushant, the gale pre- dicted by the Yankees swept down on us. Friday night, Saturday, and Saturday night, we were the sport of the waves. My interior is so admirably organised that I was Aden. 151 not the least inclined to be sick ; but poor Gr. was awfully ill The pitching was highly inconvenient. The saloon in the morning was a mass of broken glass and crockery. Every single pitch made all the glass and crockery slide violently as far as they could: and every now and then, a particularly violent lurch would produce effects which would have done credit to a bull in a china shop. Besides the pitching and noise of shivering crockery, we enjoyed close proximity to the screw. Every two minutes it would get out of water and buzz round so as to give our end of the ship a perfect ague fit. The doctor — a jolly young paddy — was in constant attendance, and said Gr. was one of the worst sufferers. Hardly any one — not one quarter of the people — came to meals all through it. The top of the saloon was carefully closed to keep it from the waves, and darkness was added to danger. The engines were stopped for eight hours on one of the nights and every effort was made to prevent the waves filling the ship. The Captain told me that for some hours it was blowing as hard as it could well blow, and that if the storm had gone on longer, the results might have been disastrous. One of the boats was swept by a sea from one of its davits and they cut it away. The crash of that wave nearly killed an old lady with terror, she thought that all was up. By Sunday the gale had abated, and we have had a beautiful run The waiters showed great skill during the storm : foncy helping you to soup when the ship is like this [here is given a rough sketch of a ship rolling heavily]. There were a great many falls and bruises ; I got a nasty one : I had grasped an iron rail and it gave way There are several dogs, including two collies, on board : also a parrot, a cow and goats and sheep, and three pussies, and ducks and chickens " If you are in London when Charrington's hall is opened, I wish you would go with M. and every one you can get, to assist at the ceremony. It will be a magnificent sight. The building, very nearly as large as Spurgeon's, will be crammed. Very likely Spurgeon will be present and give an address. .... ** I was so busy at the the last moment writing notes and sending cheques to tradesmen that I had only five minutes 152 Aden. wherein to say goodbye to , and must have seemed un- feeling ; but I hate these long, sentimental leave-takings, and they are better avoided." The following letter to myself was written a few weeks after his arrival at Aden, and gives some further details as to the voyage. It is somewhat later in date than the two which follow it, but I have placed it first because of the continuous account which it furnishes. After describing the storm in the Bay of Biscay, he proceeds : — " We got one good day at Malta, and enjoyed the trip ashore very much. We drove some four miles to the governor's summer residence and roamed in the garden there. The country was very parched owing to the hot summer they have had. We also saw the ' dried monks.* In a certain monastery, it was the custom till quite re- cently to exhume the dead monks after lying one year underground, and to stand them in niches in the walls of the underground passages. The island is utterly priest- ridden In the treaty by which the English acquired the island it was stipulated that no interference with the religion of the people should be practised. If you give a Testament away in the street you are liable to arrest. A little travelling in Eoman Catholic countries makes one realise that the Papacy is a lover of darkness rather than light. Mrs. last year met with a French student who spoke Proven9al, and persuaded him to translate one of the Grospels into Proven9al, as the millions of Proven9al-speaking people are still without the Bible in their own tongue. He did so from the Greek ; but to this day he has failed to send more than parts of his MS. He now confesses that the priests have persuaded him to throw difficulties in the way of publishing the Proven9al Grospel. Yet I know that he was quite competent, and the Bible Society had con- sented to print his MS. '* We had a few hours at Port Said and a day at Suez. The passage through the Canal was monotonous. We moved along at about four to six miles an hour, and had to stop during the night. The canal is just 100 miles long. The Red Sea was hot and steamy, but nothing to speak of. Aden. 153 The deck had. a double awning above it, and there was generally a breeze blowing. We turned the comer at Perim island (where there is now a rival coal company) very early in the morning. The Arabian coast all the way thence to Aden was very fine. We arrived in the harbour about 2.30 p.m. ; and rowed ashore in a long boat pulled by Somalis. These people form nearly half the population, and are far more attractive than the Arabs. They are very quick at picking up a smattering of English, and all speak Arabic. Many of them are tall and well-built, while the Arabs are generally short and stumpy. We found our rooms ready for us at the Hotel de I'Europe, a square edi- fice built round a court, in which a cafe chantant used to be carried on. The establishment belongs to a Jew from Smyrna, by descent a Spaniard : but the real manager is a Somali, who proved of the greatest service to us. He can talk Arabic, Somali, Hindustani, English, and a little French. The cooking was excellent, and would have done credit to a Parisian chef. Yet the kitchen was about as big as your old study, and for range had only three or four fire- holes in the stone. All our cooking utensils that we bought when we came into our bungalow cost under .£2 10s. 0