li BRARY OF PRINCETO N 
 MAY 1 7 2007 
 
 THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/detaiIs/narrativeofjournOOgard_0 
 
NARRATIVE 
 
 OF 
 
 A JOURNEY TO 
 
 THE ZOOLU COUNTRY, 
 
 IN 
 
 SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 BY 
 
 CAPTAIN ALLEN F. GARDINER, R.N. 
 
 UNDERTAKEN IN 1835. 
 
 WILLIAM 
 
 LONDON: 
 CROFTS, CHANCERY LANE. 
 1836. 
 
LONDON : 
 
 EfsADBUR\ AND F.VANS, PRINTERS, WHriKFRMSS. 
 
mm 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 To a volume of this description no further 
 preface appears to be necessary than to account 
 for the maps and the drawings by Avhich it is 
 illustrated, and to state the right pronunciation 
 of the native words which occur. With respect 
 to the former, the coast lines have been taken 
 from Arrowsmith's map enlarged, and the 
 remainder is filled up generally from personal 
 observation, which I believe to be tolerably 
 accurate ; at least as nearly so as my mode of 
 travelling and want of proper instruments — 
 frequently even a watch to regulate time — would 
 admit. 
 
 The plates are from sketches taken on the 
 spot, but, in many instances, reduced to suit the 
 size of.tliQJ^xesent volume. 
 
 47a tecii:2 Diiv8Kew York27, N. Y. 
 
 o i b 1 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In the orthography of native terms, the a is 
 to be pronounced broad, unless distinguished 
 by a short mark, as in Tugala, pronounced 
 Tugayla. 
 
 The u is always pronounced as in French. 
 Some clicks occasionally occur, as in the proper 
 name Tpai, between the 2^ and the p, but as 
 there was a difficulty in expressing them, they 
 have been omitted throughout. 
 
THE 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 TO 
 
 ZOOLU COU^^TRY. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 It is not with a view to recount my personal adventures 
 that the following narrative is now offered to the public, 
 nor was it for the mere novelty of travelling that I deter- 
 mined on a visit to South Africa ; far otherwise was the 
 object of my journey — an endeavour, under the blessing of 
 God, to open a way whereby the ministers of the gospel 
 might find access to the Zoolu nation, and be the means of 
 introducing true religion, civilisation, and industry, into 
 those benighted regions. 
 
 That many who may take the trouble to pass through 
 these pages will be disappointed I have no doubt ; they 
 will look in vain for that description of information so 
 interesting to the student of natural history, and so 
 eminently adapted to raise the mind w^th adoring grati- 
 tude to the all-wise and bounteous God of the universe, 
 but for the development of which the author is aware 
 
 B 
 
JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 that he is not competent. His single aim, he trusts, has 
 been the glory of God, and if, after the indulgent perusal 
 of the facts he shall narrate, a more ardent zeal for the 
 instruction of our fellow-creatures in the truths of Christi- 
 anity, and a more sincere personal devotion of time and 
 energy to the cause of Christian Missions, especially in 
 Southern Africa, shall be induced, he shall deem that he 
 has not written in vain, but thank God, and take courage. 
 
 It was my intention to have confined myself strictly to 
 the words of my travelling journal, but this, in part, has 
 now become impossible, as a considerable portion, including 
 the whole period from my landing at Cape Town to my 
 return to Port Natal, after my first visit to the Zoolu 
 country has been lost. Without this, there would be 
 evidently a want of connexion, and this deficiency I shall 
 endeavour to supply to the best of my ability ; but, as 
 much that it contained has now entirely escaped my 
 memory, I trust, under the peculiar disadvantages with 
 which I commence my task, great allowance will be made. 
 With this explanation, I now proceed to give a brief out- 
 line of the occurrences during the period alluded to. 
 
 On the 26th of August, 1834, I left Spithead, onboard 
 the Wellington, Captain Liddle, bound for the Cape and 
 Madras, and eventually sailed from Falmouth on the 6th 
 of September. From the evening of the 20th to the 
 afternoon of the 23rd, we were at anchor in Funchal 
 Roads, Madeira, and reached Table Bay on the 13th 
 of November. During the passage, I made a most 
 agreeable acquaintance in Mr. Berken, a Polish gentle- 
 man of high family and character, and who, from the 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 3 
 
 political circumstances of his country, had been deprived 
 of a great part of his property. On reaching the Cape, he 
 waived his original intention of proceeding as an emigrant 
 to New South Wales, and agreed to accompany me to 
 Graham's Town, partly with a desire to ascertain how far 
 it would be advisable to make that neighbourhood the 
 scene of the agricultural pursuits which he had ultimately 
 in view. 
 
 Determined to travel as lightly and expeditiously as 
 possible, we distributed our baggage upon three horses, 
 on which we and our guide were also mounted, and in 
 this Don Quixote manner we left Cape Town on the 
 evening of Thursday the 20th, sleeping the first night at 
 Stellenbosch. Saturday and Sunday we remained at 
 Genadenthal ; and I have never been more gratified than 
 in witnessing the industry, the order, and, above all, the 
 genuine piety which seems to pervade this favoured insti- 
 tution. It was Sacrament Sunday; all, both mission- 
 aries and people, appeared in white dresses ; and many of 
 the latter seated in groups in front of the church, or under 
 the shade of the luxuriant oak trees, where from consi- 
 derable distances they had assembled, were observed at a 
 very early hour, awaiting the opening of the doors. 
 
 From Mr. Halbec, the superintendent, we received the 
 greatest kindness, and early on the 24th resumed our 
 journey. The following Sunday was passed at Uitenhage, 
 said to be the most healthy, and, certainly, one of the 
 prettiest towns in this country. It is supplied with 
 abundance of water — every house stands in a garden, while 
 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 a range of neighbouring mountains not only interests 
 the eye, but creates a cooling breeze, without being 
 near enough to reflect their heat. The next day, Decem- 
 ber 2nd, we rode to Bethelsdorp, with which I must own 
 I was much disappointed — perhaps the recent visit to 
 Genadenthal might have contributed to this feeling ; but 
 in so old a Missionary Establishment I had anticipated a 
 greater progress. On the 4th, we reached Graham's 
 Town, and I immediately commenced making arrange- 
 ments for the journey beyond the frontier, by purchasing 
 waggons, oxen, &c., some horses having already been pro- 
 cured on the road. 
 
 Everything was completed by the 12th; and on the 
 afternoon of that day I left Graham's town, still accom- 
 panied by my friend, who, anxious to see something of 
 the interior, proposed continuing with me until we reached 
 some of the nearest Missionary Stations in Kafirland. 
 With two new waggons properly appointed, thirty oxen, 
 and seven horses, accompanied by a yovmg man named 
 George Cyrus, as an interpreter, we commenced this long 
 journey ; and, as it soon afterwards appeared, it was a 
 happy circumstance that such despatch in the equipment 
 had been made, for, had we been delayed but two days 
 longer, the Kafir war, then on the eve of breaking out, 
 would have entirely precluded the possibility of crossing 
 the frontier. While at the Missionary Station on the 
 Buffalo river (now King William's Town), an unpleasant 
 circumstance took place. One of my people, a Bechuana, 
 who was in charge of the oxen, reported that the whole of 
 the cattle had been driven off by the natives, and that 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 5 
 
 it was with the greatest difficulty he had escaped with- 
 out the loss of all his clothes, which they had endea- 
 voured to purloin. On this intelligence, I went imme- 
 diately, with my interpreter, to Tchatchou, the chief, 
 acquainted him with what had occurred, and informed 
 him that, as a stranger, quietly passing through his ter- 
 ritory, I should look to him to investigate the case, and 
 recover the cattle. The old man soon gave directions to 
 one of his principal warriors to accompany me for this 
 purpose, and furnishing him with a horse, on which he 
 vaulted, without either saddle or bridle, guiding him only 
 by the halter, off we both set at full speed, followed by 
 my interpreter on another horse ; and although it was 
 raining during the whole time, we scoured the country for 
 two hours, before my warlike companion thought it 
 desirable to visit the spot where this untoward circum- 
 stance had taken place. This was a secluded dell, in 
 which were two huts, almost concealed by rocks and 
 bushes, and near which a small brook was flowing. The 
 military talent of our hero was here displayed. While we 
 had been in chase of every horned animal that appeared 
 on the surrounding hills, he had ordered a well armed 
 party to proceed directly to the spot we had now reached, 
 and on our approach the hamlet was formally invested. 
 We drew up in front, the chief holding a single assegai 
 in his hand, while his people, who had come on foot, each 
 with an ample bundle of these destructive missiles, stood 
 near, in an attitude of preparation. The men were then 
 ordered to leave the huts, on which they advanced to a 
 
6 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 small ridge of rocks facing us, the women standing in 
 groupes about the houses, while a catechetical inquiry 
 was made respecting the loss of the oxen. Although the 
 accuser was present for the purpose of identification, and 
 he actually pointed out the individuals who had driven off 
 the cattle, still so adroitly was the blame shifted from one 
 to another, that, tired with the length of the parley, and 
 annoyed at the utter hopelessless of eliciting truth, I 
 resolved to refer the final decision to Tchatchou himself ; 
 and we accordingly returned to the Missionary Station. 
 
 Although I had apparently effected nothing, the promp- 
 titude of the appeal to the chief had so alarmed the 
 thieves, that, during my absence, the w^hole of the oxen 
 had been driven back, and on my arrival were found 
 snugly deposited in the cattle fold. Anxious to avoid 
 unnecessary delay, I requested Tchatchou would assemble 
 his Amapakati (council) betimes ; but although all were 
 duly seated in a circle in the open air by eight o'clock, 
 and the business at once commenced upon, at least two 
 hours were consumed in putting and answering the most 
 roundabout questions, till at last they so puzzled and 
 frightened my unfortunate Bechuana (Solomon), that he 
 was obliged to submit to a fine in clothes and tobacco, for 
 having, as they termed it, smeared them," viz. defamed 
 their character by representing them as thieves. Tchat- 
 chou is a most arrant beggar — having expended all his 
 eloquence in persuading Mr. Berkin to present him with 
 a pair of shoes, he finished by observing, that he wore two — 
 why then could he not spare him one ? His idea of an 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 7 
 
 umbrella was somewhat curious — my friend having inadver- 
 tently left his own, a messenger was despatched from the 
 chief to inquire if he intended to leave his house behind. 
 
 Not far from this station is a stream called the Yellow- 
 wood River, near which we had spanned out for our 
 mid-day's halt, but it w^as soon apparent from the 
 threatening attitude of the natives, who w^ere collecting 
 in great numbers, and by no means civil, that an attack 
 was meditated. At this time I was seated under a tree 
 on the opposite side of the river to the waggons, occupied 
 with writing some memoranda, but my fancied retire- 
 ment was soon broken in upon by a crowd collecting 
 round me. Anticipating their intention, I immediately 
 sent off directions to collect the oxen and span in as soon 
 as possible, but to be careful not to show the least 
 symptom of alarm or hurry. Something however was 
 absolutely necessary to divert their attention in the mean 
 time, and happily my pen-knife, which for peace' sake I 
 had consigned to the hand of one of the natives, who 
 had made frequent signs for it to disencumber his chin, 
 had to his great disappointment proved ineffectual. The 
 idea immediately occurred, that, could I succeed in 
 thoroughly shaving this man, the whole current of feeling 
 might be changed in our favour. With this expectation 
 I placed him on the trunk of the tree on which I had 
 been sitting, and, in spite of the red ochre with which he 
 was liberally smeared, applied the soap suds and the 
 razor to such good effect that in a very short time his 
 barbe of many years' growth was entirely removed. To 
 
JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 follow up the interest and excitement which this unusual 
 operation had occasioned, a glass was exhibited, that the 
 patient himself might have ocular demonstration of the 
 effect, but to my great dismay he pointed to his upper 
 lip, and seemed sadly disappointed that any portion of 
 mustachio had survived the operation. All that remained 
 in this dilemma was to assure him that such was the 
 usual costume of many of our English warriors : happily 
 for me this explanation sufficed, for in the state to which 
 my razor had now been reduced, had anything further 
 been required it would have been an utter impossibility 
 to have complied with his wishes. In perfect good 
 humour the whole party then accompanied me to the 
 waggons, but here the tempest was still on the ascendant, 
 and to my no small disappointment the necessary prepa- 
 rations for moving off were not yet completed. Many 
 of the expressions which were uttered were sufficiently 
 ominous, and here for the first time we were informed by 
 them of the awkward posture of affairs on the frontier. 
 "One of our chiefs," they exclaimed, "Tchali's brother, 
 has been killed by the white men, and we are resolved 
 that no more white men shall enter our country ; those 
 who are now here shall remain, but not one more shall 
 come in" — intimating that they would murder all now 
 within their territory. One angry word at this moment 
 would have been fatal to us all. As a dernier resort, and 
 to eke out the time till the waggons were ready, I proposed 
 that they should treat us with a war song, with the pro- 
 mise of some tobacco at the conclusion. This happily 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 9 
 
 had the desired effect, while it embodied the current of 
 their feelings, it acted at the same time like a safety-valve: 
 they stormed and raved, and to the extent of their lungs 
 declared that 
 
 " No white man shall drink our milk, 
 No white man shall eat the bread of our children, 
 Ho-how — Ho-how — Ho-how." 
 
 This complimentary couplet was so often and so vehe- 
 mently repeated, that ample time was afforded for 
 inspanning the oxen of both waggons, and on the first 
 glimpse of the tobacco their ire was so much subdued 
 that they sullenly said that we might pass, but we were 
 the last that should. During all this time the crowd had 
 been increasing, and when we crossed the river there could 
 not have been less than two or three hundred men, besides 
 women ; it was one of those merciful escapes in which the 
 hand of a gracious God is so eminently conspicuous, and 
 for which we have great and lasting cause to be thankful. 
 
 During our progress through the Amakosa tribes we 
 occasionally stopped at the traders' stations, wretched 
 mud-built hovels, and in so filthy a state, that my surprise 
 is that any of the inmates ever escaped the most malig- 
 nant fevers. Contented with two rooms, they inhabited 
 one while the other (the partition of which as though, 
 purposely constructed to admit the effluvia, did not reach 
 within several feet of the roof,) was piled nearly to the 
 rafters with a collection of hides and horns, the former in 
 all the intermediate stages from the green to the pickled. 
 Such an odoriferous melange of garbage, fat, and filth 
 
10 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 was perhaps never before compacted into so small a 
 compass, yet were these people seemingly happy, and 
 sipped their tea and their coffee, and offered the same to 
 every stranger that passed, with as much frankness and 
 disregard to their olfactory nerves as though the walls were 
 of cedar and their floors carpeted with lavender and roses. 
 Nothing so soon dissipates a romantic dream as one of 
 these charnel-houses, and never shall I forget the sudden 
 check which was given to the current of my thoughts 
 induced by the beauty of the scenery, through which I 
 was riding one lovely evening, by the shout of a wild 
 looking Kafir woman emerging from the bushes with a 
 pair of bullocks' horns extended in each hand, eagerly 
 offering them for sale. On learning that I was not a 
 trader, she reluctantly returned to her hut disappointed, 
 and doubtless despising me in her heart. 
 
 Both at Butterworth and Morley, two of the Wesleyan 
 Missionary Stations through which we passed, we were 
 received with great kindness by the Missionaries, Messrs. 
 Ayliffe and Palmer, and their respective families. Educa- 
 tion was evidently progressing, and scriptural knowledge 
 gradually but steadily imparting that light and life which 
 is the attribute of Him alone who hath said, "My word 
 which goeth forth out of my mouth shall not return unto 
 me void ; but it shall accomplish that which I please, and 
 it shall prosper in the thing whereto I send it." Their 
 buildings were rude but sufficient ; generally wattled and 
 plastered with mud, and neatly white-washed, and, sur- 
 rounded by a collection of bee-hive huts, like an oasis in 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 the desert, stood up the salutary mementos of civilisation 
 in a barbarous land. May their hands be strengthened, 
 and many more labourers enter the field ! Finding that 
 we were but a day's ride from the next Missionary Esta- 
 blishment "Bunting," the waggons were sent round as 
 usual, while we crossed the Umtata by a shorter route, and, 
 entering the Amaponda country, reached the station on 
 that evening, and were kindly welcomed by Mr. Satchell, 
 Wesleyan Missionary. During our progress through the 
 Amakosa Tribes the greatest vigilance was necessary to 
 prevent the loose articles about the waggons from being 
 stolen, and so quiet and unexpected were their approaches 
 on these occasions, that on awaking at day-light I have 
 frequently espied a Kafir leaving his lurking place beside 
 the waggon, and that in a spot purposely selected as the 
 furthest from all habitations. Happily these precautions 
 were now needless ; no nightly watch is required among the 
 Amapondas, and had all our valuables been showed on the 
 ground, not one of them would probably have changed 
 its owner. Although we had already met with what, in 
 Europe, would not improperly be termed difficulties, still, 
 until entering this mountainous district, we were compa- 
 ratively uninitiated into the toils and troubles of African 
 waggon travelling, no less than three days having been 
 occupied in towing our heavy " omniums" to the heights 
 of the Umzimvoobo, a distance, which, by a shorter route, 
 I was enabled to ride in a few hours. Here another more 
 formidable difficulty presented itself; the river, about 
 the size of the Thames at Kew, was full, and for some 
 
12 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 days had been impassable, and as this was the rainy 
 season, we were given to understand that we were likely 
 to be impeded for some time on the banks of two other 
 large rivers on the way to Port Natal. Already tired of 
 the slow progress we were making, and anxious to obviate, 
 if possible, these protracted delays, I resolved to pack a suf- 
 ficient number of oxen, and proceed with them on horse- 
 back, leaving the waggons to follow as they could. For 
 this purpose I returned to Bunting, but although hide sacks 
 were prepared, noses bored, and oxen practised, all was 
 unavailing, for on setting out from the bivouac still upon 
 the Umzimvoobo heights, and certainly overlooking one of 
 the most enchanting views I have ever beheld, many of 
 the burdens were ejected within a few hundred yards of 
 the spot, and, for w^ant of proper pack-saddles, it became 
 evident that nothing but damage could be effected by this 
 means. As the river was still high horses were substituted 
 for oxen, and in a couple of days more every preparation 
 was completed. In one of these rides backwards and 
 forwards to the Umzimvoobo I met with a curious 
 rencontre. It had been reported in the morning that 
 Faku, the ruling chief of the Amapondas, was going 
 out to war, and when on the heights about two miles from 
 his residence, a large body of armed people appeared to 
 occupy the very ridge over which I had to pass. The 
 sun had set, and it was too dark to ascertain their actual 
 numbers or movements, but from the hurried manner in 
 which they were at this moment joined by another party 
 rapidly descending a neighbouring hill, there was every 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 IS 
 
 reason to suppose that they were either on the eve of a 
 battle, or in actual conflict. 
 
 Being only attended by a native servant, I thought it 
 would be but prudent to edge off a little from the path 
 before we came upon them, in order to avoid passing too 
 near ; but, unable to explain my wishes in time, I rode 
 on, well knowing the ill effects of even the appearance of 
 hesitation in a time of danger. It was an animating 
 sight ; we passed within a few paces of the principal 
 warriors, who stood out before the main body, leaning 
 upon their shields, decorated with their plumes and war 
 dresses. Many were seated round fires kindled in the 
 centre, near which a herd of cattle were collected, evi- 
 dently a recent capture. Not a word was uttered as we 
 passed, but many women on the outskirts of the party 
 were observed in groups seated among the thorn bushes, 
 whispering to each other, as though anxiously awaiting 
 the result. 
 
 On my return, the following day, I found Faku sitting 
 in great state under the shade of shields held up to pro- 
 tect his head from the sun. An immense concourse was 
 assembled, all seated on the ground, while an interesting 
 trial was going on ; the accused, a tall and athletic man, 
 with a dignified appearance, whom I afterwards under- 
 stood was a ** rain maker," standing before them on his 
 personal defence. I reined in my horse, and for a few 
 minutes stopped to observe this truly characteristic scene, 
 being much struck with the coolness and manly bearing 
 of the defendant, who still proceeded in his harangue. 
 
14 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 On this Faku rose from the assembly, and coming up, I 
 dismounted to receive his usual congratulation, a shake 
 of the hand, with which he now always obliges his white 
 friends. He was attired in a handsome leopard skin 
 mantle, in this country the insignia of rank, w^hich so 
 remarkably became his tall and commanding person, that 
 when he turned from me to resume his seat among the 
 councillors, he looked the very beau ideal of an African 
 chief. 
 
 It appeared that the " rain maker " in question had 
 been sadly rebellious ; and in consequence of his cus- 
 tomary presents in cattle having for some time been 
 withheld, had plainly declared his intention of restrain- 
 ing the clouds, and thereby preventing the rain from 
 falling. For this high misdemeanour the armed party 
 vi^hich I fell in with yesterday had been ordered to secure 
 his person, and seize upon his cattle ; and he was now 
 permitted to plead his own cause, — the issue of which 
 would be either life or death. I have since understood 
 that he was acquitted. It is a singular coincidence, that 
 this affair took place but a few days subsequent to a 
 conversation which I had with Faku on that very 
 subject, which was elicited by his asking me to procure 
 rain. On that occasion he also gave me w^hat no doubt 
 he deemed very wholesome advice, informing me that the 
 Zoolus were " an angry people — that they would kill me — 
 and that I had better not enter their country." Mr. 
 Berken having finally determined to extend his journey 
 to Port Natal, now kindly proposed taking charge of the 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 15 
 
 waggons, and bringing them on as fast as the rivers, &c., 
 would admit. On the 14th of January he accompanied 
 me to the opposite bank of the Umzimvoobo, now 
 fordable, where for the present we parted, much to my 
 regret ; and with five horses, three packed, the other two 
 for myself and my interpreter, and two natives, I set 
 forward to traverse a country uninhabited for nearly 
 one hundred and eighty miles. Although our pro- 
 gress was more rapid than by the former mode, it 
 soon became evident that the small quantity of provisions 
 which could be carried upon the pack-horses, one of which 
 was laden with a bell-tent, would not suffice even for our 
 reduced party. I therefore determined to push forward 
 with my interpreter to a small village, described to be 
 but a short distance on the other side of the Umzimcoolu, 
 and within a day's journey on horseback from the spot 
 where we then were. The waggon track, they said, would 
 direct ; and as it generally followed the line of coast, 
 occasionally descending to the beach, there could be little 
 danger of losing the way. All this seemed so far feasible ; 
 and as the account of Calichana, one of my servants, was 
 corroborated by two natives, whom we met about this time 
 on their way from Port Natal to the Amaponda country, 
 I set out as light as possible on Monday the 20th, but a 
 more disagreeable journey I never had. The first dif- 
 ficulty was to find the continuation of the road (if such a 
 few waggon tracks might be termed), after descending to 
 the beach, where all traces of wheels were of course 
 entirely obliterated, and which was no easy matter, where 
 
16 
 
 JOUilNEY TO THE 
 
 hippopotami paths worn though the sand-hills, and tangled 
 vegetation, were not only numerous, but frequently more 
 inviting than the overgrown avenues we should have 
 threaded. On one of these occasions, as it might be 
 expected, we did not discover the error until, guided by 
 the huge tenants of these Jungles, we found ourselves in 
 the very heart of a morass, and, strange to say, at the 
 same instant, although widely apart, both horses sunk to 
 their haunches. In both instances it was a work of 
 labour to set them again upon their feet ; but my poor 
 mare was so completely embedded, that it was only by the 
 process of mining, and that with our hands, and eventually 
 applying leather thongs to each fetlock, and heaving each 
 limb separately out by main force, that she was at length 
 extricated from a spot where she had left a perfect cast of 
 her own dimensions. But still we were off the road — the 
 night was approaching, and by wandering further we 
 might only increase the difficulty ; as soon, therefore, as 
 we had reached a situation which might safely be called 
 terra Jirma, I selected the most eligible bush, and knee- 
 haltering the horses, prepared for our nightly bivouac, 
 when just at this time, to my great relief, the road was 
 discovered at no great distance. The night proved rainy, 
 and I rose completely drenched. We had already passed 
 several rivers, and on the following day reached the banks 
 of one, which, from its size and rapidity, there could be no 
 doubt was the Umzimcoolu. Finding it impassable at 
 the mouth, I rode round, guided by a footpath, to an 
 upper ford, about three miles distant, but even then, 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 17 
 
 appeared no possibility of getting across. Returning 
 to the former station we both endeavoured, by wading 
 among the rocks and sand banks, to discover a passage, but 
 without success. A very reduced allowance of biscuit and 
 cheese, with a little brandy, had been niy only fare since 
 leaving the baggage, and even this was now entirely 
 expended ; however we slept well under the shade of some 
 strelitza trees (very similar to wild banana) having 
 shared the last morsel of cheese to the very rind, which 
 constituted our frugal supper. 
 
 Scarcely had daylight appeared the next morning, than 
 every expedient was resorted to for the supply of our wants. 
 The hook of my horse's curb chain was bent and sharpened; 
 strands of rope were unlaid for a fishing line, the ground 
 was ransacked for worms and the rocks for muscles to be 
 employed as bait — but one of the latter only was found, 
 and either scared by or despising our novel fishing tackle, 
 not one of the finny tribe could be induced to bite. Equally 
 unhappy were all our endeavours to waylay the hippopo- 
 tami, whose provoking traces were so fresh when we awoke, 
 that, from the marks they had left in the sand, they could 
 not have passed many yards from our retreat. Even the 
 birds deserted us, and all that my interpreter could procure 
 with his gun was three sand larks, which I did not taste. 
 The next morning, the 22nd, it occurred to me that it 
 would be advisable to ascertain once more the state of the 
 river at the upper ford ; and with this intention, I mounted 
 my horse, but, on approaching the spot, I can hardly 
 express my joy and surprise at perceiving Solomon, the 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Bechuana lad, perched like a monkey upon the back of one 
 of the baggage horses, and midway in the stream urging 
 the animal to the opposite bank. On perceiving that the 
 river was fordable, I merely directed them to await my 
 return, and rode back with all speed to communicate the 
 joyful news, and offer a prayer of thanks to the Author 
 of all our mercies. It was long before we were all across 
 — my poor mare sank in a quicksand when about half 
 way, and, being too weak to extricate herself, was obliged 
 to be shot to avoid the inevitable fate of drowning, on the 
 rise of the tide which flows above this point ; and before 
 we could proceed beyond the thick belt of high reeds which 
 margins the stream on both sides, so heavy a shower de- 
 scended, that in a few minutes we were all thoroughly wet. 
 
 Nothing could have been more providential than my 
 visiting the upper ford at the time I did ; had it been but a 
 quarter of an hour earlier they would not have arrived— 
 had it been as much later, both would have passed, and 
 they would have proceeded, as they said, straight for Port 
 Natal, concluding that we were still in advance. That we 
 also might have found our way to Port Natal is not im- 
 probable, had we not been famished by the way. My mare 
 I had always regarded as a dernier resort, but we could 
 have carried little of the meat, and even under the most 
 favourable circumstances, our sufferings might have been 
 extreme before we had gained an inhabited spot. It has 
 been a lesson to me ever since never to take the advice of a 
 native — their descriptions of localities are always vague — 
 they cannot calculate distances, and they are so little 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 19 
 
 acquainted with the average speed of horses, which they 
 invariably exaggerate, that nine times out of ten they will 
 most innocently and undesignedly mislead the traveller 
 who reposes the least confidence in their information. So 
 far from reaching the wished for village at the distance of 
 an hour or two from • the Umzimcoolu, as represented, 
 it took us nearly a day and a half hard travelling, but the 
 wind was so high, and the rain so constant, that our pro- 
 gress was greatly impeded. In order to save time, both 
 the tent and the fagged horse which carried it, were left 
 on the road ; indeed, the rain had beat in through the 
 canvas so unsparingly the preceding night, that we felt 
 the less reluctant to part with so uncertain a shelter. 
 During the whole of this night, (the 23rd,) the rain never 
 once intermitted, and even the trees, under which we were 
 bivouaced, only added to our discomfort. No fire could 
 possibly be kindled — a little brown sugar, the only supply 
 that remained, was all that we had tasted for two days, — 
 wet and hungry, and without a dry thread to change, I 
 was apprehensive of the consequences of sleeping in such 
 a condition, and although obliged often to beat my body 
 to prevent being overcome by sleep, I succeeded in my 
 endeavour to keep erect upon my feet until the morning, 
 and, although still raining, I must own I never hailed the 
 first streaks of early day with a greater feeling of delight. 
 In crossing a small rocky stream the next morning, one of 
 the horses was swept down into a deep place, and nearly 
 drowned before the pack could be removed ; we soon after 
 reached the village, and our wants were readily supplied 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 with Indian corn, and native bread made from the same 
 grain. The next large river, the Umcamas, being reported 
 at this time as high and rapid, I purchased two head of 
 cattle, and, with the skins sewn together with sinew and ex- 
 tended over a light wooden frame composed of rough poles, 
 constructed a very respectable looking canoe, with which 
 we started on the 28 th, the frame borne on the heads of four 
 men hired for the purpose, and the covering placed upon 
 the back of one of the horses ; two men had been previously 
 despatched for the horse and tent, but had not returned 
 at the time of our departure, and I was unwilling to delay 
 another day on that account. It was about sunset when we 
 reached the river, the canoe, however, was soon equipped 
 and launched, the hide having been first well soaked in 
 order to fill up the seams. As none of the party were in 
 the slightest degree acquainted with the management of 
 a boat, and the whole thing even to me was an experiment, 
 I merely took a few necessary articles, and shoved off alone, 
 unwilling to risk any thing until the merits of my new 
 vessel had been properly tried. Although the paddles 
 were of the roughest description, I gained the landing 
 place on the opposite side without diflficulty, and, depositing 
 my cargo, started again in the hope of conveying the re- 
 mainder across, but here it became necessary to ascend the 
 stream, which all my labour could not effect, and after toil- 
 ing for a considerable time, I was at last obliged to give it 
 up, and make again for the opening in the reeds which I 
 had just left, and which I gained partly by the assistance 
 of a native who accompanied us from the village, for the 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 ^1 
 
 purpose of conveying the baggage across upon reeds, should 
 every other method fail. The fact was, the current had 
 swept me past the landing-place, and although I had gained 
 the reeds near the bank, still the water was deep, and it 
 was necessary to tow up the canoe, partly by their stems 
 and partly by wading, before I could again effect a land- 
 ing. Had there been people sufficient for the operation, 
 the communication might even now have been kept up by 
 carrying the canoe round to a spot higher up the stream, 
 and thence crossing diagonally to the station where the party 
 still remained. But as I had the only good swimmer of the 
 party with me, and all the rest were alarmed by the num- 
 bers of alligators which infest this river, nothing more 
 could be done than to haul her up to the top of the bank. 
 Having no provisions with me, excepting a little damaged 
 sugar, urged by the qualms of hunger I at length per- 
 suaded my companion to entrust himself again to the 
 watery element in quest of a loaf of bread. It was now 
 quite dark, and he had been so long absent, that I feared 
 some accident had happened to him, or that, tired of these 
 aquatic excursions at so unseasonable an hour, he had 
 very quietly left me to make the best of my advanced 
 position. In truth it was no enviable one. I was stand- 
 ing in a gap among reeds considerably above my head, 
 among which on both sides of me, and certainly from the 
 loudness of their snorting and hard breathing, not many 
 yards distant, the hippopotami were so thick that I stood 
 with my paddle uplifted, every instant expecting a rush 
 to be made. Willing to ascertain my probable fate, I called 
 
212 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 out to the people on the opposite bank, to inform me 
 whether or not I was to expect an attack from these unwel- 
 come visiters, but to this anxious inquiry no reply reached 
 my ears *. At length my swimming friend appeared, but 
 without the expected loaf ; all had been disposed of before 
 his arrival. My canister of sugar was again resorted to, 
 and with the zest of a school-boy ; I first rewarded the 
 native for his trouble with a little of the saccharine paste, 
 for such was its present consistency, and then scooped out 
 a portion for my supper. Although no longer annoyed 
 by hippopotami, I soon felt far more sensibly distm^bed by 
 an insignificant animal which here abounds in millions. 
 For some time I attempted to sleep in the canoe, but the 
 mosquitos were too active to render that possible ; a grove 
 of trees higher up was then tried, but even there no respite 
 was to be found — at last, driven from place to place, I sank 
 down exhausted upon the wet grass at a distance from the 
 bushes, and there without a covering contrived to sleep 
 until the morning. Our river guide was now in active opera- 
 tion, and with much ingenuity he soon constructed a sort 
 of reed pontoon on which the baggage was placed, and 
 swimming with one hand, and urging forward his bundle of 
 reeds with the other, he conveyed in this manner the whole 
 of the articles across, of course the greater part of them 
 dripping wet. The form, as shown in plate, No. 1, Fig. 1, 
 is not unlike that of a boat, the two short sticks are for 
 the purpose of attaching the articles to be conveyed, and to 
 
 * I have since understood that they will attack even on shore, but 
 that very rarely, and generally in self-defence. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 enable the person swimming at the side to prevent it from 
 rolling over. 
 
 As soon as my horse had been conveyed across, and one 
 of the canoe-bearers as a guide, I proceeded without delay 
 to Port Natal, in the hope of procuring another horse, and 
 sending back supplies for the party. On that evening, 
 the 29th, about sunset, I reached Port Natal, and was 
 kindly received by Mr. Collis, the principal trader, and 
 on the following afternoon my interpreter joined me, but 
 with no very agreeable news. Either the men had been 
 alarmed, or the horses became unmanageable in the water 
 — probably from both causes, two pack horses had broken 
 loose, and were represented as having been carried rapidly 
 down by the current, where, from the peculiar nature of 
 the banks, there can be little hope of their extricating 
 themselves until swept into the sea. I felt thankful that 
 no human life had been lost, which, from the gravity of 
 the announcement, I had reason to apprehend. Without 
 waiting for the men who were left to search for the horses, 
 I procured a waggon, and, with a sufficient supply of pro- 
 visions, continued my journey on the 31st. But we had 
 not proceeded more than ten miles, before we were again 
 stopped by the Umgani, a river of some size, but inferior 
 to the two last, which had impeded our progress, each of 
 which are equal in width to the Umzimvoobo. The 
 water was not then rising, and as the following day was 
 Sunday, there was every expectation that it would abate 
 sufficiently to admit of the waggon's crossing ; in this, how- 
 ever, we were mistaken. On Sunday afternoon it was 
 
24 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 again on the ascendant ; and as but a few inches more 
 would render it impassable even for horses, I felt the 
 necessity of either immediately effecting the passage, or 
 waiting an indefinite time until it became practicable. 
 Although reluctant to infringe upon the sacred hours of 
 this day, it appeared to be one of those urgent cases in which 
 the duty was obvious ; by the assistance, therefore, of Mr. 
 Stubbs (a hunter), who knew the river, and the natives of 
 a neighbouring village, who conveyed the baggage across 
 on their heads, I quitted the waggon, and slept in one of 
 the huts, about three quarters of a mile distant. The 
 next morning, February 2nd, I set out, accompanied by 
 my interpreter, and three natives carrying the baggage, 
 to traverse an uninhabited district of about seventy miles 
 to theTugala, which we reached on the following even- 
 ing, having slept in the open air about mid-way on the 
 preceding night. Long before we reached the river, the 
 hills in the Zoolu country were visible, and I never shall 
 forget the interest with which I perceived the first curl of 
 smoke rising from a distant village in that direction. 
 Many were the reflections which at that moment passed 
 my mind, and the nearer we approached the more anxious 
 I became to cross the narrow boundary, and feel that I 
 was standing upon Zoolu ground, and in the midst of a 
 people I had been so desirous to visit. 
 
 On this side of the river, now considered the southern 
 limit of that country, there are, indeed, a few scattered 
 villages of a Zoolu tribe, called, in derision by their late 
 sovereign (Charka), Amanpaci (literally wolf people), on 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 25 
 
 account of their alleged ill conduct in one of his cam- 
 paigns ; but the entire population does not exceed three 
 or four hundred, residing near the banks and in the 
 neighbourhood of the ford. 
 
 The chief of this small clan, Mambayendi, made his 
 appearance the next morning, but not even his authority, 
 nor the more direct assistance of some European hunters, 
 who, with their waggons, were stationed here at the time, 
 could avail in conveying the two horses across the swollen 
 stream, now at its height, and which had already been 
 unfordable for a considerable time. Happily for me, two 
 of the hunting party were still on the opposite side, where 
 a rudely constructed skin canoe was hauled up for their 
 convenience, among the reeds. This, after a certain 
 expenditure of breath and trial of lungs, was at last 
 forthcoming, and sculled across; by this means, in two 
 trips, myself, my interpreter, and a native named Um- 
 pondombeeni, ordered by Mambayendi to accompany 
 me, one saddle and bridle, and a certain proportion of 
 baggage, were conveyed across. After performing thus 
 much, the exertion was found too great to bring over a 
 party of baggage-bearers who were to have accompanied 
 me: and as for the horses, the very attempt would in all 
 probability have cost the lives of the boatmen, so that 
 this was at once abandoned. Indeed, when I consider 
 the rapidity of the stream — the number of alligators — 
 and the construction of the canoe, in shape like a reversed 
 tortoise-shell, and scarcely two inches from the water at 
 the gunwale, with the extraordinary revolutions which 
 
JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 we made during the traget, that we ourselves were landed 
 in safety was a providential circumstance, and which at 
 one time I scarcely thought possible. But I forgot all, 
 in finding myself on Zoolu ground, and thanked my God 
 for having thus far prospered my way. On reaching a 
 village about one mile and a half distant, where we slept, I 
 made every endeavour through the numzana (head man) 
 to procure baggage bearers for the journey ; but although 
 I had been informed on the other side that here they 
 could more readily be hired, there seemed little prospect 
 of success. The views from this side are beautiful — both 
 are hilly ; but on that we had just left the mimosas and 
 other trees are very luxuriant, while this is compai^atively 
 bare, and when seen in connexion with the river, which 
 winds among rocky banks, the prospect is very striking. 
 It was late the next morning (the 5th) before we could 
 move forward, and then only with temporary bearers, to 
 a neighbouring village, and one horse, which happen- 
 ing to be on this side, I hired for the remainder of 
 the journey. When we reached the next village, the 
 same difficulty respecting the transport of the baggage 
 again occurred, and finding the matter hopeless among 
 these petty numzanas, I sent, as recommended by the 
 headman here, for the necessary permission to the In- 
 doona of a large military town not far distant, without 
 whose sanction, it appeared, these inferior chiefs were 
 reluctant to take the responsibility of assisting me with 
 men. The sun had nearly set, when the messenger 
 returned to inform me that a sufficient number of men 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 0y 
 
 would be appointed, but that the Indoona had expressed 
 his surprise that I had not first applied to him. 
 
 Circumstanced as I now was, a perfect stranger in a 
 strange country, with only two attendants, my interpreter, 
 and a Zoolu, of whom as yet I knew nothing, I consi- 
 dered it would be the height of imprudence to allow 
 even the appearance of a misunderstanding to exist ; 
 accordingly, much against the inclination of my party 
 as also of the villagers, who, by exaggerating the distance 
 and the difficulties of walking in the dark, dissuaded me 
 from proceeding until the morning, I immediately set out, 
 and reached the town (Clomanthleen Inthlopi) before 
 the Indoona (Nongalaza) had retired. He was seated 
 on the ground, in front of his hut, and in the middle of 
 a half circle of the principal people, all decorated with 
 thick brass rings round their throats, and a few also on the 
 right arm. He received me with great civility, appeared 
 surprised at my travelling so late, and ordered a bundle 
 or two of imphi (a spurious sugar cane, much cultivated 
 throughout the country,) to be placed before us for pre- 
 sent consumption. My want of proper attendants seemed 
 to excite their curiosity, which the state of the rivers 
 sufficiently explained, and, after a long conversation in 
 the open air, in which it was recommended that I should 
 remain until their sovereign Dingarn had been apprised 
 of my arrival, we were shown to our huts, which were 
 larger and neater than any I had yet seen. During my 
 stay here, the whole regiment, for this is one of the 
 eskandas or barrack towns, were often assembled without 
 
28 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 1 
 
 the fence, to practise their songs and dances preparatory to 
 exhibiting in their turn before Dingarn, at his residence, 
 Unkunginglove. As these, with the various evolutions, 
 were exactly similar to those which I afterwards witnessed 
 on a larger scale, although there could not have been less 
 than eight or nine hundred men present, I shall post- 
 pone the description, as also of the intermediate country 
 to the capital, which will be more circumstantially 
 described hereafter in the journal. When about half 
 way, a petty chief arrived with orders to conduct me to 
 the capital, and to kill a beast for us at the first place 
 where he should meet us. Dingarn had expressed his 
 desire that I should proceed, saying, that " I was his 
 white man, and must make haste." I shall now proceed 
 at once to my first view of Unkunginglove on the after- 
 noon of the 10th. This w^as obtained from a rocky hill, 
 covered with aloes and mimosas, intermixed with several 
 large cauliflower-shaped euphorbia trees, growing to the 
 height of sixty or seventy feet. Having descended to a 
 beautiful spot, a continuation of the same ridge to which 
 I had pushed forward, for the sake of quietly enjoying 
 a scene, to me so fraught with interest, I dismounted 
 under a wooded knoll, whence the circular fence of the 
 town appeared like a distant race-course on the left, 
 while a range of rugged mountains, one remarkably 
 table-topped, rising towards the north, hemmed in the 
 prospect on the opposite side. Near this point the road 
 branched off, one path leading to the principal gate of the 
 town, and the other to the Issicdrdlo, or king's quarter. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 29 
 
 but which I had not perceived among the trees. As no 
 voices were heard, and after waiting an ample time no 
 traces of the party could be seen, I concluded that they 
 must have passed unperceived, and accordingly made the 
 best of my way by the only well-worn path that I could 
 discern, and which I could distinctly trace to the very 
 fence of the town. On reaching a shallow stream, which 
 I forded, I suddenly found myself surrounded by thirty or 
 forty women, who, laughing and shouting as they went, 
 accompanied me as I proceeded towards a gate in the 
 outer fence of the town, still under the idea that the party 
 were in advance, and fearing that I should be deprived of 
 the advantages of an interpreter at the very time when 
 his services would be the most needed. At this moment, 
 a person suddenly came up, and seizing the bridle of 
 my horse, without further ceremony, turned him short 
 round. The effect was so immediate and unexpected, 
 that I did not at first recognise the individual, and struck 
 at his hand with a stick ; but in a moment I found that 
 it was my servant, Umpondombeeni, and from the hurry 
 of his demeanour, and the intense anxiety he portrayed 
 by his countenance, felt at once convinced that all was 
 not right. Submitting therefore to his guidance, he soon 
 conducted me to the party, anxiously awaiting my return 
 upon the road which I should have taken, and where I 
 found many of the baggage-bearers actually in tears, and 
 all under the highest state of agitation and alarm. 
 
 No causeless fears were theirs, for had I proceeded and 
 entered by the gate I was approaching, they would all, it 
 
so 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 appears, by the custom of the country have atoned for 
 jny mistake by their lives, and, as it was, there was still 
 an apprehension that some at least would be capitally 
 punished. We soon after entered the town, and on appli- 
 cation to the principal Indoona (Umthlella) two huts not 
 far from his own dwelling were appointed, into one of 
 which I was not sorry to creep after the fatigues of the 
 journey, having walked and ridden alternately since 
 leaving the Tugala. 
 
 A bundle of imphi and a large bowl of outchualla 
 (native beer) was sent to my hut by order of Dingarn, and 
 a messenger soon after signified his wish to see me. 
 Crossing the area of the circular town, acccompanied by 
 the chief who had been despatched by Dingarn to conduct 
 me to the capital, we were desired to sit at a short distance 
 from the fence which surrounds the Issigordlo (or palace). 
 After a little pause the bust only of a very stout person- 
 age appeared above the fence, which I was soon informed 
 was the despot himself ; he eyed me for a considerable time 
 with the utmost gravity without uttering a word ; at 
 last pointing to an ox that had been driven near, he said, 
 " There is the beast I give you to slaughter," and on this 
 important announcement he disappeared. The carcasses 
 of several oxen, recently killed, were at this time lying in 
 separate heaps not far from the gate of his fence, the 
 quarters divided and piled one upon another, and in order, 
 no doubt, to exhibit at once his wealth and his munificence; 
 he again appeared slowly emerging from the arched gate- 
 way, and advancing with a measured step to the nearest 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 31 
 
 animal mound. Instantly he was surrounded by fourteen 
 or fifteen men who ran from a distance and crouched 
 before him ; a word and a nod were then given, and as 
 quickly they arose and carried off the meat at full speed, 
 holding it up the whole way with extended arms, and 
 singing as they went. Another heap was then approached, 
 and as sytematically distributed, and so on until the whole 
 had been conveyed away in a similar pantomimic manner. 
 Dingarn was habited in a blue dungaree cloak relieved by 
 a white border and devices at the back ; the train swept the 
 ground, and, although tarnished and worn, well became his 
 height and portly figure. The soldiers' meat having now 
 been duly apportioned, he slowly approached the place 
 where we were seated, and in solemn silence stood motion- 
 less like a statue before me until a chair was brought from 
 within, when he at last sat down and commenced a long 
 conversation. His first inquiries were respecting the 
 conduct of the guides, who were also present, seated in a 
 group, but who were readily pardoned on the assurance 
 which I gave that if blame were attached it must entirely 
 rest with me, as I had mistaken the road while in advance 
 of the party. He then requested to know the object of 
 my visit, which I found great difficulty in explaining. 
 
 That my views were not in any degree connected with 
 trade he could understand, but what was God, and God's 
 word, and the nature of the instruction I proposed, were 
 subjects which he could not at all comprehend. In order 
 to give him some illustration, I related a few of the 
 leadino^ circumstances which in other heathen countries 
 
$2 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 had led to the worship of God, and contrasted their 
 superior character, and the many advantages which they 
 possessed since their reception of Christianity, with their 
 former condition. He asked if his people could learn also, 
 and seemed to regard the whole as an impossibility. The 
 subject of the presents was then adverted to ; but on this 
 unfortunately I had little to say, but that they were on 
 their way, and I hoped would arrive safely ; still he was 
 not satisfied until I had not only enumerated every article, 
 but entered into a minute description of each. The 
 mention of a red cloak quite filled his mind, and seemed 
 likely to suit his fancy more than all the rest. He then 
 asked if my king's name was George, and, on the mention 
 of our gracious Sovereign, inquired how he governed his 
 people. With so many decided proofs of despotism 
 around, I considered this as rather a delicate question, 
 and therefore avoided the circumstance of parliamentary 
 interference altogether, by informing him that King 
 William governed his people by means of his great men. 
 He smiled and seemed evidently to regard even this as 
 an inconvenient approximation to popular institutions. 
 Finding that he had now sufficiently relaxed in state 
 reserve, I thought it a favourable opportunity again to 
 revert to the subject of teaching, and requested permission 
 to build a house for that purpose ; but this was a knotty 
 point, the objections to which I had yet to learn; no 
 denial however was given, and I took my leave with a full 
 understanding that a person should accompany me on the 
 following day to direct me in the selection of the spot. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 33 
 
 Dingarn had already expressed a desire to see "the Book," 
 of which I had spoken so much, and now reminded me to 
 bring it with me on my next visit. 
 
 For three days subsequently he was unwell, and on the 
 second sent to apologise for not seeing me. My next 
 interview was in the Issigordlo, where I found the King 
 reclining on a head-stool at the door of his house, before 
 which 1 was desired to seat myself on a mat. His first 
 question was whether I had brought "the Book," on 
 which my pocket testament was produced, and at his 
 desire delivered into his hand ; but, after turning over the 
 leaves with much curiosity for a few minutes, returned to 
 me again. On requesting that I would then read the 
 words of the Book, I read in order a number of passages 
 previously selected, as exhibiting the nature and penalty of 
 sin, the power and omniscience of God, and the awful day 
 of account when he will judge the world in righteousness. 
 At the conclusion he asked several very pertinent ques- 
 tions, such as,^ — Where is God? How did he give his 
 Word? Who will be judged at the last day? What 
 nations will appear? Will mine be there? Shall I live 
 for ever if I learn his Word ? " Two women only were in 
 his house, and but one chief attended me, so that it might 
 be considered a confidential meeting, and to me was parti- 
 cularly interesting. Before I left I reminded him of his 
 promise respecti^^g the house, on which he inquired if the 
 open court in which I was then standing would do, and 
 from the friendly manner in which it was expressed, I 
 almost thought it possible that he might take my hint, 
 
 THE mm ?mmm ^fiO'ii u^^^hy 
 
 ilJversida Drive New York 21, k Y. 
 
JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 and roof it in for the purpose, but now for the first time 
 he mentioned a reference to the Indoonas as requisite 
 before this matter could be finally decided. Hitherto I had 
 been treated with great civility by all, but an unaccountable 
 change was now but too apparent. Although the govern- 
 ment is absolute, a considerable share of power is vested 
 in the hands of the two principal Indoonas of the nation, 
 who are always consulted and generally supposed to 
 sanction every important measure of their sovereign, and 
 in this manner it becomes a convenient triumvirate, con- 
 tracting or expanding its powers within itself according 
 to the humour of the ruling despot. These two important 
 personages, Umthlella and Tambooza, I must now intro- 
 duce—the one a chief of hereditary rank, of a slight person, 
 and a mild and intelligent countenance; the other suffi- 
 ciently indicating, without the science of Lavater, a 
 character for tyranny and insolence but too exactly 
 corresponding with his scowling profile. From some cause 
 or other of which I was perfectly unconscious, unless it 
 was my determination not to make confidants of either, 
 but to treat only with the King on the object of my visit, 
 they not only treated me about this time with every 
 indignity, but by their rude example induced the people 
 to accost us with insolence, and often to salute us with 
 opprobrious epithets as we passed. Even my walks were 
 disturbed, and often, while seated under my favourite tree *, 
 
 * This extraordinary tree, of which I have only met with a few, 
 has no leaves, but the branches protrude numbers of green pipes con- 
 taining a milky liquid, as represented in Plate 4, Fig. 5. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 35 
 
 about three quarters of a mile from the town, a message 
 would be sent in the King's name to desire that I would 
 immediately return. On one of these occasions my inter- 
 preter happened to be near Umthlella's house when the 
 order was issued, and heard Tambooza's further instruc- 
 tions that in case I should not willingly come they were 
 to drag me along. Doubtful how far they had the power, 
 or to what extent they might be acting under the King's 
 directions — as I had not been able to approach him for 
 some days, and they assured me that without their 
 sanction I should not have another interview — I thought 
 it prudent to bear all without reproaching them, with a 
 full intention of stating the whole circumstances to 
 Dingarn on the very first opportunity that should occur. 
 Nothing seemed to gratify them more than to find that I 
 returned to the town when thus summarily ordered, or to 
 announce on my application to Umthlella for the cause of 
 this intrusion that they had directed it, palliating the 
 affront by merely saying that they wished me to sit down 
 and talk with them. So systematic was this species of 
 persecution, that on one occasion, as I was leaving the 
 town, one of the inferior Indoonas, a very powerful man, 
 more than six feet high, took me by the shoulder and 
 attempted to obstruct my passage in the gate. I imme- 
 diately walked up to Umthlella and Tambooza, seated 
 with group of people round them, not far distant, and 
 inquired if it was by their sanction that strangers were 
 thus ill treated. The only reply was that they had sent him 
 to call me, as they wished me to join them, and converse. 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 JOUHNEY TO THE 
 
 Supposing that the non-appearance of the presents 
 might have greatly contributed to place me in my pre- 
 sent dilemma, I waived the opportunity which soon after 
 occurred, of making a direct complaint to Dingarn, and 
 contented myself with hinting the advantage of sending 
 a messenger to Port Natal, to ascertain whether the waggon 
 had yet arrived ; adding that, should that be the case, the 
 presents might be forwarded without delay. This arrange- 
 ment was no sooner proposed, than messengers were 
 appointed ; and by this means I also succeeded in send- 
 ing a letter to England, w^hich, under my present circum- 
 stances, was a great relief. Had this letter reached its 
 destination, it would have been a singular production. 
 It was written upon the only half sheet of paper that I 
 possessed, by the light of a lamp made by placing native 
 butter in a small calabash, and inserting a rag wick. Some 
 essidoodo (my usual meal) supplied the paste for a wafer. 
 The shed hoof of a calf is not a bad substitute for a lamp 
 when a calabash cannot be procured. On this occasion I 
 fully thought some treachery was meditated. Umthlella 
 had again taken upon himself to send for me, and on reach- 
 ing his hut, I hesitated, when required to enter, begging that 
 he would himself come out. The messenger who had called 
 me, and whom I knew to be a principal person, assured 
 me that Umthlella was alone in the hut, but, to my sur- 
 prise, on crawling in, the sides were lined with men. 
 Umthlella commenced a long preamble, by informing me, 
 as he had often done before, that Tambooza and himself 
 were the King's eyes and ears, and that all matters of 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 37 
 
 importance must be first notified to them before they 
 could be expressed to him. He then pointed to the mes- 
 sengers about to proceed to Port Natal, and who were 
 then present, saying, that whatever message I wished 
 them to take must be delivered to them now. There 
 appeared to be no alternative, and, surrounded as I was 
 by so unexpected a party, I delivered a short message, 
 reserving the remainder for a note, which was given to 
 them on their departure. From this time, matters gra- 
 dually assumed a more pacific character: they had in 
 vain attempted to wear out my patience ; and, probably, 
 finding that they could not irritate me into any overt act 
 of retaliation, the system of annoyance was dropped, and 
 the change in their manner so apparent, that I cannot but 
 think they had received some positive rebuke from Din- 
 garn on the subject. My interviews with the King were 
 now more frequent ; but although I made it a point 
 never to leave him without giving him a hint respecting 
 my desire to commence teaching his people, and construct- 
 ing a house for the purpose, no decisive answer could 
 ever be extracted — that he would take an opportunity of 
 consulting with the Indoonas, was the invariable reply. 
 Since my return to Port Natal, the following story has 
 been related to me, which, I doubt not, has operated 
 much to my disadvantage, and will in a great measure 
 accow.nt for the recent strange conduct of the two Indoonas. 
 — Jacob, the native interpreter of the late Lieutenant 
 Farewell, who was the first settler at Port Natal, from 
 some cause became greatly incensed against the settlers, 
 
38 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 and took every opportunity to prejudice them in the eyes 
 of Charka, at that time the sovereign of this country. 
 He assured him that a white man, assuming the character 
 of a teacher or missionary, would arrive among them, and 
 obtain permission to build a house ; that, shortly after, he 
 would be joined by one or two more white men ; and in 
 the course of time, an army w^ould enter his country, 
 which would subvert his government, and, eventually, the 
 white people would rule in his stead. 
 
 One afternoon, while occupied in what may be esteemed 
 a very puerile amusement, planning out the rooms of a 
 house, with stones laid together on the ground on the 
 spot, which (if permission could be obtained) I had 
 selected for the mission buildings, a messenger, running and 
 breathless, came to inform me that Dingarn was waiting 
 to see me. I found the King seated near the fence 
 of some detached houses at the back of the Issigdrdlo, 
 where I w^as joined by my interpreter, who informed me 
 that several messengers had already been despatched for 
 me in different directions. Dingarn appeared in high 
 good-humour, but with a degree of mystei-y which rather 
 prepared me for some strange antic. He began some 
 trifling conversation to eke out the time, when suddenly 
 the head of a column of the most grotesque looking figures 
 debouched from their ambush on the right, and marched 
 past four deep, raising and lowering their bent arms, as 
 though in the act of tugging at steeple bell-ropes, and 
 repeating two lines of a song as they jmssed, which may 
 be thus translated ; — 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 39 
 
 " Arise, vulture ! 
 Thou art the bird that eateth other birds." 
 
 When they had passed and repassed in this order, 
 they appeared again, broken into irregular companies, 
 according to the colour of their dresses, — and seeing that 
 I admired the arrangement of the beads, with which they 
 were literally covered, they were ordered to advance in 
 files, and approach nearer, that their dresses might be 
 inspected. They proved to be no other than the King's 
 women, about ninety in number, decorated as they usually 
 are previous to the army taking the field. Their faces 
 were veiled with pendents of beads, with which also the 
 petticoat was covered, forming an elegant checkered 
 pattern, while their throats and arms were adorned 
 with large brass rings. Some wore short cloaks also 
 covered with different-coloured beads, and all two strange 
 head feathers, which gave them a very uncouth appear- 
 ance. For women, they seemed to be in a high state of 
 discipline, and rather enjoyed the display than otherwise ; 
 and Dingarn seemed highly gratified at the well-merited 
 encomiums which I paid to his taste, every one of these 
 devices having originated in his fertile imagination. It 
 was nearly dark before this extraordinary exhibition was 
 ended, Dingarn, during the latter part, frequently turning 
 round, and addressing me thus : — Are we not a merry 
 people? What black nations can vie with us? Who 
 among them can dress as we do ? " Tt was some of these 
 ladies whom I met on my first approach to the town, 
 after missing my party — they had then been bathing ; 
 
40 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 but I have frequently met large parties of them carrying 
 burdens for the use of the Issigordlo, and more than once 
 seen them march out, with Dingarn at their head, and 
 employ themselves in weeding his corn and imphi grounds, 
 while he inspected the crop. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 41 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 My mind was much relieved by the return of the 
 messengers, who not only brought the welcome intelligence 
 of Mr. Berken's safe arrival with the waggons at Port 
 Natal, but some substantial proofs of my integrity to 
 Dingarn in the long-promised presents, some of which, 
 indeed, had so deteriorated in their various submersions 
 by the way, that they were scarcely produceable, while, to 
 my great satisfaction, that which was most prized, the 
 red cloak, was in the best preservation. For the selection 
 of this article, which was composed of red baize, with a 
 long silky nap, such as is often used in lining the collars 
 of boat cloaks, I am indebted to Mr. Fynn, who kindly 
 recommended it to me, in Graham's Town, as a descrip- 
 tion of cloth in colour and texture more likely to please 
 his Zoolu Majesty than any other that could be procured ; 
 and, certainly, no advice could have been more correctly 
 given. No sooner was it opened, than it was displayed in 
 every possible manner ; first, on the King's shoulders, 
 then on one of his servants, who was ordered to turn and 
 twist about in all directions, that its every bearing and 
 fold might be shown off to the best advantage ; it was 
 
4]2 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 then stretched to its widest extent, and two men, hold- 
 ing it up at arm's length, were directed to run at fuU 
 speed backwards and forwards, that he might witness its 
 appearance while flowing in the air ; at length, for some 
 minutes it was hung upon the fence opposite his own 
 house, that the curiosity of the people who were viewing 
 it from a distance might be satisfied. Strange to say, 
 after all this display, he never even wore it, but has had it 
 carefully preserved ever since for the Grand National 
 Assembly at the Feast of the First Fruits, which takes 
 place annually about the first week in January. In the 
 evening I received the important information, by special 
 messenger, that it was neither too long nor too short, but 
 exactly suited. 
 
 Dingarn, with all his barbarity, is dearly fond of a joke, 
 and one morning sent for me and my interpreter, for the 
 sole purpose of affording some amusement. The open 
 court which surrounds his house, into which we were 
 admitted, was lined with seventy or eighty women, seated 
 on mats, while he himself was standing on an earth 
 mound, about the size of an ant-hill (shaped as in Plate 1, 
 fig. 2) ; from which he is enabled not only to overlook 
 the fence, but to take a general view of the whole 
 town ; and it is from this rude pedestal that his orders are 
 frequently given to the people without. 
 
 There has been a contest," was his first observation. 
 " My women will not believe that you can do the things 
 that are written down, unless you were present when the 
 directions were noted — but I tell them you can." 
 
ZOOLU COLINTHY. 
 
 43 
 
 In order to place this knotty question beyond all 
 further dispute, I was requested to remain at a sufficient 
 distance outside the fence, while my interpreter, at their 
 dictation, wrote in pencil the names of twelve or fourteen 
 of the women, describing their relative situations, when I 
 was again admitted. The accuracy with which I was 
 enabled at once to point to each individual named on the 
 paper was a source of great merriment and surprise, but 
 still they were not satisfied, and devised another plan, 
 which they thought would certainly puzzle. On my 
 return, after a considerable interval, it appeared that 
 several articles had been hid, and for which I was required 
 to search, according to the directions given. My first 
 essay was to produce a broom, which had been rolled up 
 in the end of a mat ; then a bead, in the closed hand of 
 one of the ladies ; afterwards, an ear ornament, concealed 
 in the skirt of Dingarn's cloak, but here I was at default 
 — pointing to the cloak, he shook it loose, to show that 
 nothing was there ; still I pointed at the same spot near 
 his feet ; at last, with a laugh of triumph, he lifted up one 
 of his feet, which had been purposely placed upon the 
 article in question. This, of course, all acknowledged 
 was an unfair advantage ; and I then proceeded to pro- 
 nounce the name of his favourite dog, Marquillana, and to 
 watch the first lizard which happened to run over the thatch 
 of the King's house ; on noticing which, my task was ended, 
 and I doubt not my reputation for literary acquirements 
 wonderfully enhanced. Dingarn, it appears, had on some 
 
44 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 former occasion, proved the skill of a white man in deci- 
 phering his own language. 
 
 But a more tragical scene was about to be exhibited. 
 Early one morning, my servant came to inform me that 
 they were killing a man ; and on leaving my hut to 
 ascertain the truth of the report, I found that Goujuana, 
 one of the King's brothers, had already been hurried 
 through the gate to the place of execution, and was at 
 that time followed by his two servants in charge of a 
 party of executioners, armed with knobbed sticks. Partly 
 dragged and partly goaded on, they were distinctly traced 
 across the stream, and ascending the opposite hill. Here, 
 however, they stopped, and a horrid scene took place. 
 The two servants naturally enough had endeavoured to 
 effect their escape ; but instead of binding them, they 
 determined, as they called it, to take away their strength 
 by throwing them down, and striking them violently on 
 all parts of the body with sticks — their blows I could 
 distinctly hear. Again they were placed upon their feet, 
 and urged on less rapidly to the fatal spot, near a large 
 euphorbia tree on the brow of the hill, where the horrid 
 purpose was completed by additional blows on the head. 
 Goujuana, I understand, made no resistance, and only 
 requested, as he was led along, that in consideration of his 
 being a king's son, he might be strangled, in lieu of being 
 struck with the knobbed sticks, which was granted. 
 
 Much affected by what I had witnessed, I could 
 scarcely take my eyes from the spot, and was still standing 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 45 
 
 in the same place, when the principal executioner entered 
 the town on his return, holding in his hand the brass 
 ornaments which had been taken from the necks of the 
 deceased. He advanced directly towards me, and for a 
 second or two, as he was approaching, the thought crossed 
 my mind that I was to be the next victim ; but it 
 appeared he was only actuated by curiosity, and after dis- 
 playing the brass rings, passed on. The following after- 
 noon I took an opportunity of visiting the spot, but so 
 effectually had the hyenas and the vultures performed 
 their office, that the skeletons only remained to add 
 to the number of skulls and bones with which the 
 whole slope of the hill was strewed. Goujuana was one of 
 the most intelligent looking men I have ever seen, of an 
 open and engaging countenance, and, although the next in 
 succession to Dingarn, was so unassuming in his manners, 
 that I have often had great pleasure in his conversation, 
 and had indeed indulged in the hope that it might please 
 God to make him the first convert to Christianity. A 
 mystery hangs over his death ; but whether true or false, the 
 alleged offence is an intrigue against the King, in which 
 two other of his brothers were also said to have been im- 
 plicated, and about a year ago suffered the same fate. 
 Dingarn, according to report, had hitherto spared his life, 
 contrary to the wishes of the two Indoonas, but so deter- 
 mined was Umthlella to effect his death, that, because his 
 recommendations in this particular were not attended to, 
 he had for some time refrained from visiting the King, ex- 
 cepting on matters of business ; and the other day plainly 
 
46 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 told him that it was impossible that they could ever go 
 out to war while the poisoner, (as he termed Goujuana,) 
 lived. 
 
 But even here the matter was not allowed to rest. When 
 a chief falls by the hand of the executioner, all his pro- 
 perty is confiscated, and every individual, of whatever age, 
 who is in the remotest degree connected with him by 
 family or dependence, is summarily put to death. An 
 Indoona, who lived in an adjoining hut to mine, was 
 ordered upon this revolting duty, and from his lips, on his 
 return, the following account is given. The principal 
 property belonging to Goujuana was in the neighbour- 
 hood of the Tugala, and thither he was sent with a party 
 of men, not exceeding thirty, to destroy the entire popula- 
 tion of ten villages. On reaching the first of these devoted 
 places, he entered with one man only, to avoid suspicion ; 
 in the course of the evening one or two more dropped in, 
 and so on, until the whole had arrived. He then informed 
 the principal men that he had a message to deliver from 
 the King, and as it was addressed to all, it would be better 
 for the men to assemble in a place together, where all could 
 hear. This arrangement being made, he so contrived it 
 that his men, with whom a previous signal had been con- 
 certed, should intermingle with the party, and endeavour 
 to divert their attention by offering them snufF. While 
 thus apparently on the most friendly terms, the fatal 
 blow was given, each of the Indoona's party, on noticing the 
 signal, rising and stabbing his fellow with an assagai. The 
 houses were instantly fired, and the women and children 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 47 
 
 indiscriminately butchered. The same horrors were per- 
 petrated at each of the remaining villages, and it is said 
 that but a very few escaped by flight out of the whole 
 number ! 
 
 It is truly lamentable to reflect on the numbers of cold- 
 blooded murders which are thus systematically occurring, 
 and that under the highest sanction, in these habitations of 
 cruelty, going far to depopulate many flourishing districts : 
 and surely it should be the earnest and the constant prayer 
 of Christians, that the glorious light of the Gospel may 
 illumine their dark mountains, producing " Glory to God 
 in the highest, and on earth peace, good-will towards 
 men." 
 
 A few days after this painful occurrence, a chief named 
 Georgo, at the head of a large detachment from his regi- 
 ment, came from a distant part of the country, for the 
 purpose of begging shields. As all the cattle folded in the 
 military towns belong to the King, and but few are killed 
 there in proportion to the numbers which are daily slaugh- 
 tered at the capital, this is, in consequence, the great 
 deposit of shields, the manufacture of which is constant 
 and almost the only occupation of the men ; two being 
 formed from each hide. The reception of this party, 
 which was somewhat curious, I shall now describe. Their 
 arrival at the principal gate of the town having been noti- 
 fied to the King, an order was soon after sent for their 
 admission, when they all rushed up with a shout, brandish- 
 ing their sticks in a most violent manner, until within a 
 respectable distance of the Issigordlo, when they halted. 
 
48 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Dingarn soon mounted his pedestal and showed himself 
 over the fence, on which a simultaneous greeting of By ate 
 ran through the line into which they were now formed. 
 He soon disappeared, and the whole party then seated 
 themselves on the ground they occupied. Dingarn shortly 
 after came out, the two Indoonas and a number of his 
 great men having already arrived, and seated themselves 
 in semicircular order on each side of his chair, from whom 
 he was, however, removed to a dignified distance. Tam- 
 booza, who is the great speaker on all these occasions, 
 and the professed scolder whenever necessity requires, 
 was now on his legs : to speak publicly in any other pos- 
 ture would, I am convinced, be painful to a Zoolu ; nor is 
 he content with mere gesticulation — actual space is neces- 
 sary — I had almost said sufficient for a cricket-ball to 
 bound in, but this would be hyperbole ; a run however he 
 must have, and I have been surprised at the grace and 
 effect which this novel accompaniment to the art of elocu- 
 tion has often given to the point and matter of the 
 discourse. In this character Tambooza is inimitable, and 
 shone especially on the present occasion, having doubt- 
 less been instructed by the King, in whose name he 
 addressed Georgo and his party, to interlard his oration with 
 as many pungent reproofs and cutting invectives as his 
 fertile imagination could invent, or his natural disposition 
 suggest. On a late expedition it appears that the troops 
 now harangued had not performed the service expected — 
 they had entered the territory of Umselekaz, and, instead 
 of surrounding and capturing the herds within their reach, 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 49 
 
 bad attended to some pretended instructions to halt 
 and return ; some palliating circumstances had no doubt 
 screened them from the customary rigour on such occasions, 
 and this untoward occurrence was now turned to the best 
 advantage. After a long tirade, in which Tambooza ironi- 
 cally described their feeble onset and fruitless effort, 
 advancing like a Mercury to fix his dart, and gracefully 
 retiring as though to point a fresh barb for the attack ; 
 now slaking his wrath by a journey to the right, and then 
 as abruptly recoiling to the left— by each detour increasing 
 in vehemence — the storm was at length at its height, and 
 in the midst of the tempest he had stirred, he retired to 
 the feet of his sovereign, who I remarked could scarcely 
 refrain from smiling at many of the taunting expressions 
 that were used. Georgo's countenance can better be ima- 
 gined than described at this moment. Impatient to reply 
 he now rose from the centre of the line, his person deco- 
 rated with strings of pink beads worn over his shoulders 
 like a cross belt, and large brass rings on his arms and 
 throat. " Amanka " (it is false) was the first word he 
 uttered. The various chivalrous deeds of himself and his 
 men were then set forth in the most glowing colours, and 
 a scene ensued which I scarcely know how to describe. 
 Independent of his own energetic gesticulations, his violent 
 leaping and sententious running, on the first announce- 
 ment of any exculpatory fact indicating their prowess in 
 arms, one or more of the principal warriors would rusli 
 from the ranks to corroborate the statement by a display 
 of muscular power in leaping, charging, and pantomimic 
 
 £ 
 
50 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 conflict, which quite made the ground to resound under 
 his feet ; alternately leaping and galloping (for it is not 
 running) ; until frenzied by the tortuous motion, their 
 nerves were sufficiently strong for the acme posture — 
 vaulting several feet in the air, drawing the knees towards 
 the chin, and at the same time passing the hands between 
 the ankles. In this singular manner were the charges 
 advanced and rebutted for a considerable time ; Dingarn 
 acting behind the scenes as a moderator, and occasionally 
 calling off Tambooza as an unruly bull-dog from the 
 bait. At length, as though imperceptibly drawn into the 
 argument, he concluded the business in these words, — 
 ** When have we ever heard any thing good of Georgo ? 
 What has Georgo done ? It is a name that is unknown to 
 us. I shall give you no shields until you have proved 
 yourself worthy of them — go and bring me some cattle 
 from Umselekaz, and then shields shall be given you." 
 A burst of applause rang from all sides on this unexpected 
 announcement ; under which, in good taste, the despot made 
 his exit, retiring into the Issigordlo, while bowls of beer 
 were served out to the soldiers, who with their Indoona 
 were soon after observed marching over the hills, on their 
 way to collect the remainder of their regiment, for the pro- 
 mised expedition. I am inclined to think that there was 
 much of state policy in the whole of these proceedings, 
 particularly as the order for the attack on Umselekaz was 
 shortly after countermanded, and not more than ten or 
 twelve days elapsed before the same party returned, and 
 received their shields. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. $1 
 
 At this time I was quietly writing in my hut; one of 
 the shield houses adjoined ; and I shall never forget the 
 unceremonious rush they made. Not contented with turning 
 them all out, and each selecting one, hut, in order to prove 
 them and shake off the dust, they commenced beating 
 them on the spot with sticks, which, in connexion with 
 this sudden incursion, occasioned such an unusual tumult, 
 that I almost thought a civil war had commenced. The 
 chieftain above alluded to (Umselekaz) is of Zoolu origin, 
 born not far from this very town: his people are the same; 
 but during the reign of Charka, the predecessor to the 
 present King, a separation was made, and, as is usually 
 the case, the greatest jealousy and antipathy exist between 
 these two independent and powerful states. 
 
 The morning being generally the time for transacting 
 business, as well as for slaughtering cattle, which is always 
 an important operation, I used sometimes to join the 
 select party assembled around the King, who, seated on a 
 chair near his fence, was almost daily visible at that hour. 
 The deaths and casualties which have occurred during the 
 night among his cattle are now formally reported, and 
 with such precision that even the colour and twist of the 
 horns are described. A herd is then driven near and 
 paraded before him for inspection ; from these he selects 
 the number required for the day's consumption — six, 
 eight, and sometimes ten or twelve, which are no sooner 
 chosen than a person appointed thrusts a long spear into 
 their sides. But one puncture is made about the region 
 of the heart: still it is seldom that the animal drops 
 
5^ 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 immediately; many walk and stagger for a minute or two, 
 and even, when fallen, seem to die in great agony from the 
 whole of the blood escaping through the mouth, and 
 producing a degree of suffocation. It was this cruel 
 accompaniment which often deterred me from these 
 morning visits. The fingering my watch was always a 
 favourite amusement with Dingarn. Irrespective of con- 
 sequences, I quite inadvertently drew it out on one of 
 these occasions; when a narrower inspection was imme- 
 diately requested, and as there was no alternative, it was 
 consigned to a hand which had little regard for its delicate 
 construction. How to recover it again I scarcely knew. 
 Dingarn was already aware that there was still one 
 intended for him among the presents that had not yet 
 arrived, and pleaded hard for an exchange. "Why may 
 not this be mine? Does the other make the same noise? 
 Is it as large?" Although satisfied on all these points, 
 and even assured that the other was larger, he still seemed 
 to regard present possession as vastly superior to the most 
 costly promises. Hints were unavailing. At last I appealed 
 to his feelings, by informing him that it was the gift of 
 a very dear friend, on which, much to his credit, and 
 greatly to my relief, he readily restored it uninjured to 
 my hand. A singular phrase was used by the group 
 assembled near, at one of these morning audiences. 
 Dingarn had sneezed once or twice, when they immediately 
 exclaimed, " May he grow greater." 
 
 A ludicrous proof was about this time given of the 
 promptitude with which the most unusual and despotic 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 order is obeyed, when issued by the King. Several men 
 from a distant part of the country, and who had never 
 yet seen a horse, were standing near, when Dingarn, in 
 one of his frolicsome moods, suddenly turned round, and, 
 pointing to my horse quietly grazing at a distance, cried 
 out, " There's a lion ; — go and bring it alive.'* Instantly 
 the whole party were in pursuit. I did not witness the 
 circumstance, but my interpreter informed me, that as they 
 approached they extended themselves to surround him, 
 one standing out in advance as though to tempt the 
 attack, while those behind were prepared to seize and 
 master the animal after he had, as they expected, sprung 
 upon his victim. But they soon discovered the mistake, 
 and on their return were ironically rebuked by their 
 sovereign for not bringing the lion. Had it been a lion, 
 as Dingarn himself asserted, it would have been brought, 
 and from this specimen I have little doubt of the fact, 
 notwithstanding the great loss of life that must have 
 attended so unusual an enterprise. 
 
 One of his most cruel acts was unfortunately induced 
 by the sight of an eye-glass which I occasionally wore. 
 He had requested to look through it, and was amusing 
 the people near by describing the effect. Now, he would 
 remark, you are all run over the river, meaning that he 
 could distinguish people on the opposite side; now you 
 are all come back, directing the glass to nearer objects; 
 at length he asked whether it would burn, and on being 
 told that it was only intended to assist the eye, he sent to 
 the Issigordlo for a large burning-glass which he had 
 
54 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 formerly received as a present. His first essay was to 
 ignite the dry grass on each side of his chair ; hut this 
 was too tame an occupation, and beckoning one of his 
 servants near, he desired him to extend his arm, when he 
 firmly seized his hand, and deliberately held it until a 
 hole was actually burnt in the skin a few inches above 
 the wrist. Crouched before him in the humblest posture, 
 the unfortunate man seemed writhing with pain, but 
 dared not utter even a groan, and, as soon as this wanton 
 infliction was over, was directed to go round to the com- 
 pany and display the effect. Had my glass been restored, 
 I should long before have taken my departure, unwilling 
 to countenance such barbarous proceedings; but it was 
 still retained, and I was necessitated to witness a repetition 
 of the same torture on another servant, whom he held 
 in the same manner, and who appeared to suffer more 
 intensely, yet without any further indications of his feel- 
 ings than a nervous writhing of the whole body. No 
 sooner was he liberated, than he confessed that the pain 
 extended through every part from his head to his feet, 
 and that he was convinced he must have fallen had it 
 been prolonged. He too was ordered to exhibit his arm 
 to all present, and really, from the expression of many 
 of the countenances as he went round, a stranger might 
 have imagined that some honorary badge had been con- 
 ferred. 
 
 In these military towns the whole food of the soldiers, 
 consisting of dutchualla in the morning, and beef in 
 the evening, is provided at the King's cost, and partaken 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 59 
 
 heralds swiftly cross each other, emerging at the same 
 moment from opposite ends of the circle, and, running 
 furiously along the line which faces the women, shouting 
 the whole time at the top of their lungs, O, O, O, O, O, 
 O ! to indicate its conclusion. These heralds are always 
 disguised by some grotesque attire ; on this occasion, one 
 of them was so completely enveloped in the entire skin of 
 a panther, his own eyes piercing through the very holes 
 in the skull, and his neck and shoulders streaming with 
 long lappets of the same fur, that he bore no resemblance 
 to a human being; the other was less hideous, being- 
 covered with streamers of ox tails and hair, a large fillet 
 of which encircled his forehead, and hung wildly over his 
 eyes. Every song, many of which were sung on these 
 occasions, has a different air, and the corresponding atti- 
 tudes vary also ; some are humourous and colloquial, in 
 which a conversation is kept up with the women, who ask 
 questions, and are in return answered by the men ; but 
 the generality relate either to hunting or war. On one 
 occasion, the boys were employed to water the ground, and 
 in an instant every calabash, large and small, was in 
 requisition ; even bundles of wet grass were brought and 
 switched about, to assist in laying the dust, but in a 
 quarter of an hour it was again raised by the continued 
 stamping of so many feet. The black feathers of the 
 long-tailed finch form the usual head plume of the 
 men ; the forehead is bound round with a fillet of white 
 beads, having a square of red in the centre ; white beads 
 usually decorate the ankles, and a band of thivS, or some 
 
60 
 
 JOUllNEY TO THE 
 
 other colour, as pink or blue, the leg below the knee ; while 
 heavy brass rings on the throat and arms, are the esta- 
 blished uniform during the dancing season, and to the eye 
 have a rich and dressy appearance. In this climate, how- 
 ever, they are a positive torture, and many are the com- 
 plaints which I have heard among the wearers, of the 
 blisters which they not unfrequently raise, after a long 
 exposure to the direct rays of the sun ; the marvel is, 
 that the whole nation are not afflicted with sore throats, 
 as the pressure and heat are endured throughout the hot- 
 test months of the year, while they are suddenly left off 
 on the approach of winter. 
 
 JBut I must now revert to the more immediate subject 
 of my visit. Nearly a month had elapsed since my 
 arrival, and not the slightest progress appeared to have been 
 made in what I had the most at heart — the religious instruc- 
 tion of this people — although no opportunity had been lost 
 in urging the point with Dingarn. The horse which I had 
 borrowed at the Tugala was still with me, retained day 
 after day in the full expectation that a final reply to my 
 often-repeated applications would be given, and that its 
 services might be required either for the purposes of the 
 station here, or for my return to Port Natal. In order, 
 therefore, to bring the matter at once to an issue, I 
 requested an audience, and informed the King that I could 
 no longer retain the horse — that it was my intention to 
 send him back on the following day, but that it would be 
 very inconvenient for me to do this, without having been 
 previously made acquainted with his decision respecting 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 61 
 
 my remaining to teach his people. His reply was, " You 
 must go and speak to the Indoonas about it, and to-mor- 
 row morning bring them up with you, and I will give you 
 an answer." 
 
 Delighted with this apparent opening, and anticipating 
 a speedy result, I proceeded in quest of Umthlella and 
 Tambooza ; but at that moment these two important per- 
 sonages were actively engaged dancing in the ring, and as 
 my intrusion at such a time would only have retarded my 
 views, and the sun went down before they returned, I was 
 obliged to content myself with a promise that they would 
 attend to the business the first thing in the morning. 
 
 Soon after day-light, I sent to inquire if Umthlella 
 was disposed to receive me in his hut, or whether he and 
 Tambooza would call on me ; but though diligent search 
 was made, neither could be found, and at length it was 
 ascertained that both were with the King. For a long time 
 I awaited their return, my interpreter and myself taking 
 different stations for this purpose ; and although at last 
 I succeeded in waylaying them, it was again but too 
 evident that nothing could be expected from either. 
 Orders, it appears, had been suddenly given, and arrange- 
 ments were now making, for the removal not only of the 
 court, but of the whole male population, to Imbelli-belli, 
 a military town about ten miles distant, where a series of 
 dances on a more extended scale was to finish the festi- 
 vities of the season. The urgency of the occasion, and tlie 
 press of business which devolved upon them, was the plea 
 they advanced for not at once attending to my wishes ; and 
 
62 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 perceiving that all prospect of success, amidst the hurry 
 and bustle of the moment, was utterly hopeless, I fell 
 in with Umthlella's suggestion to accompany them, a pro- 
 mise at the same time being held out of a decided answer 
 on reaching Imbelli-belli. My expectations of such a 
 result, I must own, were by no means sanguine ; the 
 dancing was expected to continue for twenty-one days, 
 and I had little hope that, in the midst of all the excite- 
 ment and bustle of such a scene, my business was likely 
 to be better attended to than here. Still there was a 
 glimmering of hope — both the King and the Indoonas were 
 now pledged to express their opinion, and I thought it very 
 probable that something might arise during the march 
 that might induce the Indoonas to espouse my cause. 
 
 The Unkunginglove regiment, about nine hundred 
 strong, marched out in single file about ten o'clock ; a 
 number of camp followers, bearing a few articles rolled 
 up in mats upon their heads, had preceded, and seve- 
 ral kept company at a respectable distance, on either 
 flank ; among whom were the King's servants, bearing his 
 cloak in a basket, his gilt stick, a chair, and various other 
 articles. Dingarn, followed by the two Indoonas, passed 
 through the gate at the head of his people, but, on reach- 
 ing the heights, ordered them to proceed, while he rested 
 in his chair, and reviewed them as they filed past, those 
 nearest to his person bending almost double as they 
 approached, and continuing the obsequient posture until 
 they advanced several paces forward. The line occupied 
 a considerable space, and, as they wound up the irregular 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 63 
 
 slopes of the hills, the effect produced by their glistening 
 armlets and collars and waving plumes, was certainly fine ; 
 and Dingarn, who is a notorious boaster, took advantage 
 of the circumstance to expatiate to me on the numbers 
 and efficiency of his troops. For some time he continued 
 in the rear, and then ordering a general halt passed along 
 the line, and resumed his station at their head. 
 
 On approaching a military town called Issiclebani, the 
 whole male population turned out, formed on the hill, 
 and soon after descended with an impetuous charge to 
 within about two hundred yards of the advancing line ; 
 on which both halted, and shouts of welcome resounded 
 from the Issiclebani people, closely compacted in mtle 
 order. Dingarn was at this time seated under the shade 
 of a spreading mimosa, with Marquillana, his favourite 
 dog, at his feet, and witnessing the stately walking and 
 trotting of some of the principal ladies, who had come 
 out to greet him. The troops of both towns soon after 
 assembled on the top of the hill to await his arrival. 
 Among these ladies of rank was his own sister, who, on 
 approaching, kissed his hand, and then joined her com- 
 panions, who were slowly moving backwards and forwards 
 on the same line, in order to exhibit to the best 
 advantage a long skin petticoat, of the blackest dye, 
 studded round the waist with brass knobs, and fur- 
 nished on each side with a long lappet, which trained 
 upon the ground behind. The motion of the feet, half 
 walk, half trot, gives the idea of wading through an 
 opposing current of water, while the shoulders are alter- 
 
64 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 nately advanced and the bent elbow moved up and down 
 in so constrained and inelegant a manner, that I never 
 could regard these gauche manoeuvres, though evidently- 
 intended to please, with any tolerable degree of compo- 
 sure. On reaching the hill on which the town is built, 
 both parties had formed two sides of a square, and here a 
 similar exhibition took place in leaping and athletic eccen- 
 tricities to that which has already been described on the 
 arrival of Georgo. 
 
 The object, however, was different, in the present 
 instance, to assure their sovereign of the capacity and 
 eagerness of each old warrior to emulate his former 
 deeds ; and certainly, if actions could speak, they must 
 have made a most indelible impression upon his mind. 
 Here was no speechifying, but out came a warrior with 
 a bounce, brandishing his weapon and beating his 
 shield, and covering as much ground in three strides as 
 a tiger could spring, — stabbing, and parrying, and re- 
 treating, and again vaulting into the ranks, with so light 
 a foot and so rigid a muscle, that the eye had scarcely 
 time to follow the velocity of his movements. Another 
 and another came out, each with a peculiar step and 
 gesture; and, while in the performance of these exploits, 
 pointed at throughout his meteor course, as well by the 
 King as by all his compatriots, who, by the extension of 
 their hands and their sticks towards the individual, 
 accompanied by the prolonged sound of the letter Z, 
 indicated their recognition of a warrior of known and 
 tried courage. This continued some time, when the 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY, 
 
 65 
 
 Unkunginglove troops passed on, followed by those of 
 Issiclebani, who escorted us about a mile from their town 
 to the bank of a dry rivulet; when, after a few more 
 bounces and leaps, and simultaneous shouting, they took 
 their leave, to slaughter and devour some beef which had 
 been presented to them by the King, a herd having accom- 
 panied our progress at some distance from the line of 
 march. As we now proceeded along more quietly, 
 Dingarn turned round to inquire of me whether King 
 William often visited different parts of his country, and 
 whether he was welcomed by his subjects in a similar 
 manner. I immediately tossed my hat in the air, and 
 gave three cheers, which, on being explained, greatly 
 delighted him. During the whole of this journey we 
 were accompanied by the two Imbongas, or professed 
 praisers of the King, bearing shields, and keeping always 
 within audible distance on one side or other of the path ; 
 these are the same men who perform the part of heralds 
 in the dances, and who now, at every convenient oppor- 
 tunity, recounted the various acts and deeds of their 
 august monarch in a string of unbroken sentences ; the 
 climax of this species of impromptu composition being 
 the volubility of the speaker, and his total disregard to 
 every rule of punctuation. 
 
 The entrance into Imbelli-belli was in the same style 
 as the approach to Issiclebani ; the people of tlie town 
 came out to receive the King, and then all moved for, 
 ward together ; the main body, as soon as they had 
 passed the inner fence, opening to admit the King, wlio 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 was in the rear, and then immediately closing and form- 
 ing a circle around him, who, after witnessing a further 
 repetition of warlike antics, retired to the Issigordlo, 
 at the upper part of the town. Not so fortunate was I, 
 although nearly the whole population of the place had 
 been forced to turn out for the accommodation of the 
 people from Unkunginglove, who may be considered as 
 the body-guard, and were seen lighting their fires as we 
 approached, and preparing to bivouac among the neigh- 
 bouring bushes. ^Not a hut could be obtained ; and had 
 it not been for the influence of the two Indoonas, who, 
 at the express order of the King, accompanied us in the 
 search, we should not have succeeded. Not expecting to 
 remain beyond a night, the sum-total of my baggage was 
 a pocket-testament and a spoon, naturally calculating on 
 procuring a mat ; but even this luxury could not be 
 obtained ; and I was obliged to content myself with the 
 solid floor for my bed, and a more solid stone by way of 
 pillow, and that in a hut already occupied by two natives, 
 independent of my interpreter. Having been promised 
 an early interview with the two Indoonas in the morning 
 (March 7th), and the actual height of the sun described 
 at the time the intended conference should take place, I 
 was at Umthlella's hut rather before the hour appointed ; 
 but neither himself nor his colleague, who, in the crowded 
 state of the town, were housed together, could be found. 
 His servants informed me that they had been seen passing 
 through the gate, intending to bathe in the river, which 
 I believe was correct. However, in due time they were 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 67 
 
 reminded of the appointment, and the long-promised 
 meeting took place. Both Umthlella and Tambooza, 
 who were the only individuals present excepting our- 
 selves, expressed themselves in the kindest manner, and 
 evinced so much cordiality and willingness to forward my 
 views, that the object appeared almost gained before the 
 final reference had been made to the King. Apparently 
 animated with the subject, which was discussed at full 
 length, they themselves proposed an immediate adjourn- 
 ment to the presence of the King ; but this, even to them, 
 was not so readily gained ; and to my astonishment, not- 
 withstanding all their previous boasting, we were all kept 
 a full half-hour waiting attendance, happily under the 
 shade of some old trees in the centre of the area, until his 
 majesty, at the time occupied, not like the nursery king, 
 in "counting out his money," but in inspecting his 
 herds of cattle, had finished his princely employment. 
 His chair was then set beside the trunk of another tree, 
 to which we soon after repaired ; and I was called upon 
 by Dingarn to state the substance of what had just 
 been advanced in Umthlella's hut. 
 
 As these arguments will appear in the sequel, it will 
 be unnecessary to say more than that I endeavoured to 
 explain to him, as I had frequently done before, that my 
 only motive in visiting his country was the spiritual 
 instruction of his people ; enlarging on the blessings 
 attendant upon Christianity, both individually and na- 
 tionally ; and assuring him that any intention to inter- 
 fere with either their laws or their customs was the 
 
 F 2! 
 
68 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 farthest removed from my thoughts, as, next to the fear 
 of God, honour and respect to kings, and all in authority, 
 was a prominent feature in the religion which was taught 
 in "the book,'* and which I was so anxious to make 
 known to them. To this point I met with no inter- 
 ruption ; but here Tambooza observed that they did not 
 wish for teaching ; that they could never learn ; that 
 such words as these they were sure they could not under- 
 stand. If I would instruct them in the use of the issibum 
 (musket) I could stay, but these were things they did not 
 care about. As neither Umthlella nor the King had as 
 yet expressed any opinion, I strove hard to combat these 
 objections, hoping still to neutralise this unexpected 
 rebuff, but to no purpose : Umthlella, though he said 
 little, supported his colleague ; and both soon cut the 
 matter short by an appeal to the King for his final 
 decision. His reply, a masterpiece of ''juste milieu'' 
 policy, and I am willing to hope at variance with his 
 better judgment, was thus expressed : " I will not over- 
 rule the decision of my Indoonas." As though thunder- 
 struck, and scarcely believing my own ears, I still 
 ventured to prolong the discussion, until reminded by the 
 Indoonas, who, having now gained their point, were 
 more authoritative in their manner, that the business was 
 ended. 
 
 Some messengers just at this moment arrived from 
 the Tugala with a package from Port Natal, containing 
 a letter from Mr. Berkin and some Graham's Town 
 Journals. The letter I eagerly opened; but, notwith- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 69 
 
 standing all my anxiety to learn t}ie progress of the 
 Kafir war, I was obliged to reserve the perusal of the papers 
 for a less public occasion, as it would otherwise have been 
 difficult to have concealed some of the prominent facts 
 from the cross-questioning curiosity of Dingarn ; and as 
 yet we were in total ignorance of the circumstances which 
 had occurred since the first breaking out of hostilities. 
 From the tenor of the letter, some parts of which it 
 was necessary to communicate, I was enabled to assure 
 him that wanton aggression upon British territory would 
 never be tolerated, and that all who aided in such fruit- 
 less expeditions would be severely chastised, — a result 
 which he seemed fully prepared to regard as by no 
 means improbable. As the object of my visit had now, 
 at least for the present, entirely failed, I signified my 
 intention to return forthwith to Port Natal, going back 
 immediately for my baggage to Unkunginglove, as the 
 following day was Sunday, and setting out on my jour- 
 ney on Monday morning. Dingarn, who throughout 
 has always treated me kindly, said, that I must not leave 
 him yet ; that he wished me to see the dancing which 
 would be going on for the next twenty days, and that 
 after that period I could return. My mind was now too 
 much grieved to take any pleasure in these wild pastimes. 
 I told him that it was necessary, on many accounts, that I 
 should return, and particularly as I had the keys of the 
 boxes which contained the remainder of the presents, 
 which, unless opened, might spoil, and, at all events, 
 could not be forwarded across the Tugala until unpacked. 
 
70 
 
 JOUilNEY TO THE 
 
 The high road to his heart having been thus gained, no 
 further objection was made, and having promised to post- 
 pone my v^alk until the evening, in order to witness a 
 grand dance which was shortly to take place, I took my 
 leave for the present. 
 
 There were some novelties in this dance. " We must 
 open a new path," said the inventive Dingarn, and shortly 
 after he was escorted to the dancing ground, without the 
 town, by his Unkunginglove men, each bearing a large 
 bunch of green bows * in his right hand, exalted above 
 his head, who, in conjunction with the people of another 
 town, formed an exterior circle, while the Issiclebani regi- 
 ment occupied the ring, and danced within. The moving 
 grove, intermingled with the bald heads, had a cheerful 
 effect. Dingarn, although in his dancing costume, did not 
 join the lists, but contented himself with witnessing the 
 feats performed by the three regiments assembled, the 
 Unkunginglove, the Imbelli-belli, and the Issiclebani, 
 who each took their turns in the ring. It was altogether 
 a most animating sight ; crowds of spectators were col- 
 lected, and groups of women, with children on their backs, 
 were seen taking advantage of every rock and rising ground, 
 to peep over the heads of the bystanders ; even the trees were 
 garnished with boys, who were more than once disturbed on 
 their roost by an order from some of the Indoonas. There 
 could not have been less than 4000 or 5000 people on the 
 ground. A variety was also observed in the dress of the Im- 
 belli-belli men ; if a collection of skin streamers, like the taiKs 
 * These bows had never been carried before. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 71 
 
 of a lady's " boa " attached to a thin waist-cord, deserves 
 the name, but which, in fact, is the nearest approach to an 
 habiliment which a Zoolu ever deigns to wear. In this 
 instance, and expressly for the occasion, the short cottony- 
 fibre of a root was substituted, at least behind, and twisted 
 into thick ropy pendants, with the ends hanging loose 
 like a tassel below, which had a good effect, eight or nine 
 of these tails forming a dress. But before the whole was 
 ended, a thunder storm, attended with heavy rain, cut 
 short the amusements, and all were obliged to leave the 
 ground, and return for shelter to the town. As soon as it 
 cleared up a little, I took a formal leave of Dingarn, who 
 called his people around, to show me how they could eat 
 tough beef, asking, if that was the manner in which Eng- 
 lish soldiers received their meat ? He then said, that I 
 must come and see him again ; that I could build at Port 
 Natal, and teach the people there. Still, reluctant to leave 
 him without some distant prospect of success, 1 told him 
 that I hoped he would soon alter the word he had spoken, 
 and that whenever he wished a teacher for his people, he 
 must send me a message to Port Natal. It was late before 
 we reached Unkunginglove that evening, and early on 
 Monday (the 9th), the bearers appointed by Dingarn to 
 convey my baggage were in advance, and I found myself 
 reluctantly leaving the town, now almost deserted of its 
 inhabitants, and where I had fondly hoped that some pro- 
 gress in Christian instruction would ere this have been 
 effected. But well is it for us, that God's ways are not 
 oiu: ways ; by such disappointments he not only proves and 
 
72 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 prepares the instruments by whom he often deigns to work, 
 but shows us that his purposes will ripen and unfold with- 
 out their aid. I felt much comfort in repeating those beau- 
 tiful lines of Cowper — 
 
 S BrCuf art fni> ^ € 
 " Wait for His p romioo d aid, 
 
 And if it tarry — wait ; 
 
 The promise ma)' be long- delayed, 
 
 But cannot come too late." 
 
 So satisfied did I feel of a favourable result to my re- 
 quest, that the horse had actually been sent off; a long walk 
 of three days was therefore before me, in which, ext^.isive 
 of fording the rivers, we averaged about thirty miles in 
 each. The following, which is the only scrap remaining 
 of my lost Journal, I should perhaps apologise for insert- 
 ing, but, as it will give some idea of my spacious apart- 
 ment in the Zoolu capital, may not be here altogether out 
 of place. 
 
 MY ZOOLU HUT. 
 
 Dear is that spot, however mean, 
 
 Which once we've called our own; 
 And if 'twas snug, and neat, and clean, 
 
 Our thoughts oft thither roam. 
 
 I see them now — those four * low props. 
 
 That held the hay-stack o'er my head ; 
 The dusky frame-work from their tops, 
 
 Like a large mouse-trap, round me spread. 
 
 Once entered, I forgot the pain 
 
 My broken back sustained ; 
 But when obliged to crawl again. 
 
 From tears I scarce refrained. 
 
 Many of the huts have but one support in the centre. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 73 
 
 To stand erect I never tried. 
 For reasons you may guess ; 
 
 Full fourteen feet my hut was wide, 
 Its height was nine feet less. 
 
 My furniture, a scanty store. 
 
 Some saddle-bags beside me laid ; 
 
 A hurdle used to close the door, 
 Raised upon stones, my table made. 
 
 And when my visiters arrived. 
 To sit, and prate, and stare ; 
 
 Of light and air at once deprived. 
 The heat I scarce could bear 
 
 The solid ground my softest bed, 
 
 A mat my mattress made; 
 The friendly saddle raised my head, 
 
 As in my cloak I laid. 
 
 The homely lizard harmless crept 
 Unnoticed through the door ; 
 
 And rats their gambols round me kept, 
 While sleeping on the floor. 
 
 Such was my humble Zoolu home. 
 
 And memory paints thee yet ; 
 While life shall last, where'er I roam. 
 
 That hut I'll ne'er forget. 
 
 In the course of the first day's journey we met some 
 messengers hastening towards Unkunginglove with intel- 
 ligence of the sickness of an influential Indoona residing 
 at some distance. They informed me that they were pro- 
 ceeding directly to the King, who, on being made 
 acquainted with the nature of his disorder, would send 
 down such medicine as he thought proper. This I am 
 
74 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 told is the usual practice. Dingarn expects to be made 
 acquainted with the ailments of all his principal people ; 
 when any danger is apprehended, the case is then referred 
 to the doctors-residing in the capital, and, according to 
 their advice, medicine is forwarded to the patient, who, 
 whether it agree or not, is obliged to take it. 
 
 The state of my wardrobe at this, time but too well 
 corresponded with my lodging, and it was only by tying 
 the remains of my shoes to my feet that I was enabled to 
 retain the advantage of a sole, until we reached tlie 
 Tugala, when, to my no small gratification and surprise, 
 our reiterated shouts for the boat were at length answered 
 by my friend Mr. Berkin, whom I soon perceived anxi- 
 ously waiting on the rocks for my arrival on the opposite 
 bank. Our meeting here was not, indeed, altogether 
 unexpected, as in the note received at Imbelli-belli he had 
 signified his intention of paying me a visit at Unkung- 
 inglove, in company with Mr. Collis, who was at that time 
 about to take his annual journey, to purchase the ivory 
 which had been collected by Dingarn, who keeps this 
 description of trade entirely in his own hands. So anxious 
 was my friend to render his advice and assistance in my 
 present circumstances, that he at once gave up the prose- 
 cution of a trip which had previously excited much of his 
 curiosity and interest, and insisted on accompanying me 
 back to Port Natal, where we arrived on Saturday, the 
 14th, with one of the waggons he had so kindly con- 
 ducted from the Umzinivoobo. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 " There hath not failed one word of all His good promise, which 
 omised." — I Kings viii. 56. 
 
 Firm is the Rock in Zion laid, 
 
 A refuge that has never failed ; 
 Sure is the feeblest hope that's stayed 
 
 On Him who over death prevailed. 
 
 No word He 's uttered shall be void, 
 
 No promise He has spoken, fail ; 
 Though long delayed, 'tis not destroyed, 
 
 But surely shall at last prevail. 
 
 What though the raven cease to feed, 
 
 Though Cherith's brook at length be dry, 
 
 Sufficient for a Prophet's need, 
 The cruse and barrel shall supply. 
 
 What worldlings now so fondly boast. 
 The treasures that their hearts divide, 
 
 Whate'er we seem to need the most, 
 In mercy — all may be denied. 
 
 And yet a richer boon be ours, 
 
 " As poor and yet possessing all 
 And those may be our happiest hours, 
 
 When nothing we our own can call. 
 
 And then how sweet to trace the Hand 
 That gave — and has withheld in love, 
 
 To feel 'twas all in mercy planned, 
 And know our treasure is above ! 
 
 Ask now the Christian — Is it well ? 
 
 In Joshua's words he will reply, 
 And praise his giateful heart will swell — 
 
 No one good thing does he deny. 
 
JOUriNEY TO THE 
 
 But if so sure the promise here 
 
 But foretastes of the bliss declared, 
 
 How should the thought our bosoms cheer, 
 Of those bright mansions He 's prepared 
 
 A little — and we soon shall be 
 
 Where pain and sorrow are unknown, 
 
 And Jesus our Redeemer see, 
 And all his loving kindness own. 
 
 Oh ! then, my soul I in Christ confide ; 
 
 Thy every care in Him repose ; 
 He lives who once for sinners died, 
 
 And all our griefs and trials knows ; 
 And nothing we can ever need. 
 If Jesus we have found indeed 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 77 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Scarcely had we arrived at Port Natal, when the 
 following letter, bearing the signatures of all the Euro- 
 peans then in the settlement, was put into my hand. 
 
 Port Natal, March I4th, 1835. 
 
 Sir, — We, the undersigned residents of Port Natal, 
 learn with regret your unfavourable reception with Din- 
 garn ; and, to enable you to form a just estimate of our own 
 feelings, declare that the presence of a Missionary Esta- 
 blishment at Natal, whose object would be to inculcate 
 industry and religion, would and shall meet with all the 
 support in our power. 
 
 (Signed) John Cane. 
 
 C. Plankenberg. 
 
 Richard Wood. 
 
 Charles Adams. 
 
 J. Francis. 
 
 C. J. PiCKMAN. 
 
 P. H. Agle. 
 James Collis. 
 
 To Capt. Gardiner, R. N, 
 
78 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Although from its position and maritime intercourse 
 with the Cape Colony, this Port must ever be regarded 
 as the key, not only to the Zoolu country, but likewise to 
 a very considerable portion of the interior districts on this 
 side of the continent ; there were many objections to its 
 being selected at this time, as the seat of a Missionary 
 Establishment, which it will not now be necessary to 
 state ; but at the same time I feel it not less a duty than 
 a pleasing gratification to attribute the removal, and 
 softening down of many of these difficulties, to the kind 
 and unsolicited interference of my valued friend Mr. 
 Berkin, who, during the few days which he remained here, 
 prior to his recent journey to the Tugala, lost no oppor- 
 tunity of ascertaining the general feeling on this subject, 
 in the event of my failure with Dingarn, and strongly 
 recommended me to accede to the apparent wishes of 
 the community. 
 
 Having given the matter full consideration, a reply was 
 forwarded in the following terms, — 
 
 Port Natal, March I6th, 1835. 
 
 Gentlemen, — The kind manner in which you have 
 expressed your desire for a Missionary to be established 
 at Natal, and the readiness with which you have pledged 
 yourselves to support him in his endeavours to inculcate 
 true religion, throw open so wide a door for usefulness, 
 that, independent of my own inclination, I feel it would 
 not be consistent with my duty to decline your invitation 
 to remain among you. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 79 
 
 If you will, therefore, accept my personal services, they 
 are most cheerfully offered until the necessary buildings 
 are completed, and arrangements can be made for a 
 clergyman of the Church of England to occupy this 
 important station. 
 
 That these mutual endeavours for the temporal and 
 spiritual welfare of immortal souls may be blessed with 
 abundant success from the God of all Grace is my ardent 
 prayer ; and I trust that the character and conduct of all 
 those who may be engaged in this work will always bear 
 the strictest scrutiny, and uphold an example which may 
 correspond with the Divine truths they profess to teach. 
 
 I am. Gentlemen, 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 "Allen F. Gardiner." 
 
 To the English Residents at Port Natal. 
 
 A few notices from a brief missionary journal, kept 
 about this time, will be sufficient in this place to continue 
 the thread of the narrative. 
 
 Sunday^ March 1 5th, forenoon, — English service 
 under the trees, at Mr. Berkin's. — Thirteen Europeans 
 present. 
 
 Afternoon, — Kafir service. — One hundred and fifty 
 natives. 
 
 Thursdmj l^th, — Selected a site for the Missionary 
 premises, with a tract of land surrounding it on the north- 
 east side of the bay, upon a hill commanding an extensive 
 prospect. 
 
80 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Finday ^Otli. — Took formal possession of the land 
 which was secured to me by an agreement signed by all 
 the white inhabitants ; decided on naming the Missionary 
 Establishment " Berea," since, notwithstanding my ill 
 success with Dingarn, the word has here been gladly 
 received. 
 
 Sunday 22nd, — The principal settlers had intended to 
 have sent all their people to the afternoon service, in order 
 that I might form an estimate of the black population 
 and address them ; but they were prevented from assem- 
 bling by the heavy rain. 
 
 Morning. — English service in my hut. 
 
 Afternoon, — Kafirs in front of the tent. — 60 natives 
 attended notwithstanding the rain. 
 
 Tuesday Mth. — Great Meeting — The people assem- 
 bled at Mr. Berkin's — stood under the shade of a high 
 tree, and addressed them, as they sat round, on the object of 
 forming a Mission among them — the nature of true reli- 
 gion — what it was proposed to do for them, and what 
 would be expected from them — such as attendance on 
 public worship — sending their children to the school — 
 setting a good example in their families — not to be hasty 
 in judging of what they do not understand, but to hear 
 often, and to ask for explanations, which would at all times 
 be readily given. Many women brought their infants— 
 there were at least six hundred adults, and a great many 
 children. The attention they gave was very encouraging, 
 and their whole conduct exceedingly orderly. They arrived 
 in distinct companies, the people of each white chief 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 81 
 
 coming up, and continuing together ; and in the same 
 order they moved off with the greatest regularity, the 
 men preceding the women, as is always customary in this 
 country. 
 
 Wednesday Q>5tJi, — Commenced the school in the tent, 
 with two girls and four boys. Gave each a piece of 
 printed calico, that they might appear decently dressed. 
 More children would have been sent, but the parents, I 
 understand, have an idea that it is my intention to take 
 them away with me. 
 
 Such was the feeble commencement of this infant Mi.s- 
 sion — a day, indeed, of small things ; but, blessed be God, 
 we are but His instruments, and though without him we 
 can do nothing, when He vouchsafes to bless His own work 
 it will prosper. To delve and to plough, and to cast in 
 the seed, is ours ; but, though Paul may preach and 
 Apollos may water, to God alone must we look for the 
 increase, and in His own good time, if we faint not, it will 
 doubtless appear. 
 
 With these occupations my time was now fully em- 
 ployed. The prejudice respecting the schools soon 
 passed over ; but still I did not more than double the 
 number, having at that time but little accommodation ; 
 and considering that it would be far better to train a few 
 ,in the first instance, to act as monitors in a larger school, 
 than to commence on a more extended plan. 
 
 Although I had already entered into a contract for the 
 necessary buildings at Berea, (a school-house, to be used 
 
82 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 also as a church, and two dwelling-houses,) and some huts, 
 on the native plan, were also constructing for my accom- 
 dation, I was (until the completion of the latter) still 
 living in a hut, which Mr. Berkin had kindly offered me, 
 at a spot nearer the bay, which he had selected for his 
 own residence, and where he was engaged in clearing the 
 ground, and erecting some temporary buildings. 
 
 About this time there was a prevailing rumour that 
 the Zoolus were meditating an attack upon the settle- 
 ment ; and so much credit was given to the report, that 
 we recommended a general meeting of the white inhabi- 
 tants, to consult upon some plan for mutual assistance in 
 the event of their approach ; but so little had any to 
 lose, and so accustomed were they to similar intelligence, 
 that they affected to regard the matter as a casualty to 
 which they had often been exposed, and coolly signified 
 their intention to take to the " bush,'* should the neces- 
 sity arise. 
 
 Our present necessity of tenanting hee-Jiive houses, of 
 sitting upon our boxes, and enduring either the bites of 
 musquitoes, or inhaling the smoke, which alone w^ould 
 exclude them, was certainly not from any decided predi- 
 lection to such a mode of life, but still infinitely superior 
 to the hush system proposed — (a sudden nomadic retreat 
 to the woods to escape the Zoolu spear !) ; — we therefore 
 turned our thoughts to some other method of protection. 
 But two plans remained — either to abandon, or to defend 
 the place ; and, circumstanced as we now were, we had 
 no hesitation in adopting the latter. The ground was 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 immediately marked out ; a party of natives engaged ; 
 and in a very short time a sufficient stockade was erected 
 round a wattled house Twhich Mr. Berkin was then build- 
 ing), for the protection of the whole settlement, should 
 they prefer this alternative to their favourite one of 
 " bushing it." 
 
 In this position matters stood on the arrival of the 
 Circe trading sloop from Algoa Bay, and by which Mr 
 Berkin decided on returning to the colony, for the pur- 
 pose of purchasing stock and supplies for the farming 
 establishment which he had already commenced, with the 
 intention of returning and making this his future resi- 
 dence. By this time the huts at Berea wjere completed ; 
 and as they were more commodious than those he had 
 hitherto inhabited, my friend spent the last day with me 
 there previous to his embarkation, and attended the first 
 services which were held at the Mission station, on 
 Sunday, March 19th. I took leave of him before day- 
 light the following morning. By eight o'clock the sloop 
 was under weigh, and with no ordinary feelings did I 
 watch her progress, until concealed by the intervening 
 land ; little supposing at the time that I had taken my 
 last farewell of my kind and valued friend ! As a pre- 
 caution in the event of an attack from the Zoolus, my 
 journals had been forwarded by this opportunity to my 
 agents in Cape Town ; but as no account has been since 
 heard of the sloop, there can be but one opinion respecting 
 her fate. 
 
 Descriptmi of Port Natal. — The entrance to the 
 
84 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 port is narrow, but it immediately expands into a 
 beautiful sheet of water, of nearly an oval shape, having 
 a low island near the upper end, and exhibiting 
 from the neighbouring heights all the peculiar charac- 
 teristics of lake scenery. Both the island and the banks 
 of the bay are covered with mangrove-trees, the wood 
 of which has been found to be very durable in build- 
 ings ; and so low is the general level of the land to 
 the foot of the surrounding hills, that during the spring- 
 tides a great part on the north side is overflowed. Near 
 the sea coast, and upon the slopes of all the hills which 
 face the bay, the woods are comparatively thick and 
 tangled ; but on gaining the first or second ridge, they 
 only occur in ornamental clumps, large tracks of open 
 ground intervening, and affording every facility for im- 
 mediate tillage. By a little attention to draining, the 
 whole of the flats which margin the bay may be available 
 for agricultural purposes ; and so rich is the alluvium in 
 some of these places, that a very productive garden has 
 lately been laid out by Mr. Collis, in a spot still sur- 
 rounded by reeds, and formerly entirely occupied by them. 
 With the exception of Mr. Collis's house, constructed of 
 reeds and mud, there was not a single dwelling of the Euro- 
 pean fashion in the whole settlement on my first arrival ; 
 and to a stranger, unacquainted with the localities, the 
 whole had a most wild and deserted appearance. On 
 account of the frequent threats of Dingarn to send down 
 and reclaim his runaways, the open country was consi- 
 dered as unsafe, and every village and hut carefully con- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 87 
 
 commence about fifteen or twenty miles from the coast, 
 and occupy a considerable tract of the interior, be selected 
 for the purpose. The grass in all these districts is shorter 
 and richer than that on the lower grounds near the sea, 
 and in every respect they appear to be well adapted for 
 grazing purposes ; especially the rearing of sheep, a descrip- 
 tion of farming which in all probability will eventually 
 succeed far better than in any part of the Cape Colony, 
 where the cold winter-rains are so often fatal, while the 
 converse obtains here, the rainy season commencing in 
 October, and ending about February or March, which are 
 the warmest months. 
 
 Of the natural productions, there are doubtless many 
 which might be turned to good account. From the bark 
 of the mimosa, a good tanning liquid may be produced ; 
 its gum, when properly cleansed, is esteemed as an article 
 of commerce. Some of the woods, particularly the umta- 
 bota, which has the colour and fragrance of cedar, would 
 bear a beautiful polish. The castor- oil tree, and the indigo 
 plant, are indigenous, and, by proper cultivation and care, 
 it is probable that the latter may be brought to the per- 
 fection which is necessary for producing the dye. Almost 
 all the shrubs bear a flower at some season of the year ; 
 the creepers are particularly beautiful, and I know no part 
 of the world where the 'parterre may be embellished with 
 a greater profusion of beautiful indigenous, but generally 
 scentless, flowers, than in this favoured spot. Small single 
 pinks and tulips are very common, as also geraniums, and 
 
88 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Mfiany very beautiful lilies ; but the small white bell-shaped 
 flowers which grow upon a shrub, from five to eight feet 
 high, not unlike a myrtle, are by far the most fragrant^ 
 and would be an acquisition to any green-house or garden. 
 Although so much farther north, the climate is not hotter 
 than at Cape Tow^n, which can only be accounted for by the 
 absence of sands, and the thick mantle of grass which covers 
 every part which is not occupied by timber. Having 
 unfortunately lost the use of my thermometer, I am unable 
 to speak from observation, but 1 have no hesitation in 
 saying, both from personal experience and the opinion of 
 those who have lived long in the country, that it is equally 
 as cool, and certainly as salubrious, as the finest parts of 
 the Cape Colony. 
 
 It is remarkable, that the same disease, called the horse 
 sickness, so prevalent in Albany, and in other parts of the 
 colony, is equally destructive to horses here. It is said to be 
 an affection of the lungs, and attacks them only during the 
 hottest season ; in March and April this year, it was unu- 
 sually fatal, carrying off nearly all the horses within a few 
 weeks. With the exception of one bit by a snake in Kafir- 
 land, two swept away in the Umcamas, and one shot in 
 crossing another river, but one horse remains to me ; the 
 rest having died of this disorder, for which no remedies 
 have as yet been applied with success. 
 
 That the rank pasturage in the neighbourhood of the bay, 
 and the fogs which occasionally rest upon the flats in that 
 vicinity, may be regarded as secondary causes in producing 
 
5^00LU COUNTRY. 
 
 81^ 
 
 these diseases in horses, I have little doubt ; and there is 
 ranch to favour the opinion, which is now becoming more 
 general, that if these spots were avoided, and the higher 
 table-lands selected for their grazing ground during the 
 period of attack — which, though varying in degree, is said 
 to be annual — they would not suffer to the extent they now 
 do, and probably might escape altogether. The introduction 
 of mules, and a good breed of Spanish asses, would be very 
 desirable, as they would not only be better adapted for 
 carrying burdens, and the general purposes of travelling, 
 in this country, than horses, but, in all probability, from 
 their hardy nature, would escape the sickness which has 
 been alluded to. In closing these few remarks, I should 
 not omit the opinion of a party of Dutch farmers, who 
 were on their return to the colony about the time I was 
 travelling towards this settlement. They had heard much 
 of the soil and capabilities of Port Natal for agricultural 
 purposes, and, resolving to decide for themselves on the 
 accuracy of these reports, they formed a large party, and, 
 with ten or twelve waggons, proceeded at once to this place. 
 After advancing towards the Tugala, and thoroughly 
 examining the whole district, they not only acknowledged 
 that the accounts they had heard had not been exagge- 
 rated, but set out on their return for their several fami- 
 lies, with a full determination to locate them in this 
 neighbourhood, — a resolution which the sudden breaking 
 out of the Kafir war has alone prevented them from 
 executing. 
 
 The remainder of this chapter I shall now devote to 
 
90^ 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 such memoranda relating to the history, military organi- 
 sation, and customs, &c. of the Zoolus, as I have been 
 enabled to collect, but on which, from the loss of my 
 previous journal, I am prevented from enlarging ; being 
 unwilling to write from memory more than is absolutely 
 necessary. 
 
 History, — The immediate ancestors of Dingarn in 
 the supreme authority are Jama, Senzanakona, Charka. 
 The latter was brought up with Tingaswao, king of 
 the Umtetwa, who is reported to have been a man of great 
 sagacity, and to have originated some parts of the military 
 system, which Charka subsequently brought to such per- 
 fection. The Umtetwa at that period were a people far 
 more powerful than the Zoolus. Charka usually headed 
 his army, but at the period of his death they were 
 engaged on a distant expedition against a powerful chief 
 named Sotchangan, ruling a country to the north-west of 
 DelaGoa Bay, which proved unsuccessful. At this time^ 
 1829, two of his own brothers, Dingarn and Umthlangan, 
 conspired against his life, assisted by Satai, a principal 
 domestic of great influence. Diverting his attention by 
 driving from his presence some men who had been exhi- 
 biting some feathers for sale, he received an assegai wound 
 in the back from one of this treacherous party, who 
 were anxiously watching the favourable opportunity. He 
 immediately rose and attempted to throw off his ingoobo 
 (skin mantle), but fell in the act. His last words were, 
 " What have I done to you ? — children of my father ! 
 Although Dingarn was present and consenting, it is not 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 91 
 
 believed that he took an active part in the murderous deed. 
 Charka is generally allowed to have been illegitimate, and 
 prior to his death had nominated Dingarn as his successor ; 
 but it appears that it was the object of Satai to set this 
 aside in favour of Umthlangan, the younger brother. 
 The plot was soon discovered, and Umthlangan murdered, 
 it is said, by the hand of his brother, who, notwithstanding, 
 permitted Satai to escape with impunity. Until very lately 
 he was residing at his own village, on the Umthlatusi ; but 
 has recently been killed by order of Dingarn. These two 
 unnatural brothers are said to have drunk, on the spot, 
 the gall of the chief they had conspired to assassinate ! 
 The sovereignty is hereditary in the nearest male rela- 
 tive : a brother of Dingarn, still living, is the presumptive 
 heir. 
 
 Titles of the King. — Byate. (No signification yet 
 ascertained.) 
 
 Baba — (Father)— used in reply, as " Yearbo Baba," 
 "Yes, Father." The same term is also used by inferiors 
 of all ranks to them above them. 
 
 The noble elephant ; 
 
 Thou who art for ever ; 
 
 Thou who art as high as the heavens ; 
 
 Thou who begettest the men ; 
 
 The black one ; 
 
 Thou who art the bird who eats other birds ; 
 Thou who art as high as the mountains ; 
 Thou who art the peace maker, &c. 
 Military organisation. — The whole kingdom may be 
 
9^ 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 considered as a camp, and every male belongs to one or 
 other of the following orders : — 
 
 Umpagati . . Veterans. 
 
 Isimporthlo J 
 
 & ^ . Younger soldiers. 
 
 Izinseezwa ^ 
 
 Amabootu . . Lads who have not served in war. 
 The two former are distinguished by rings on their 
 heads, the others do not shave the hair. 
 
 Throughout the country there are ekanda, or barrack 
 towns, in \vhich a certain number of each class are 
 formed into a regiment, from six hundred to about one 
 thousand strong, and w^here they are obliged to assemble 
 during half the year, principally for the practice of 
 dancing, which is considered as a military exercise. In 
 the whole country there are said to be from fourteen to 
 sixteen large ekandas, and several of a smaller size ; and 
 it is supposed, but I cannot speak from personal observa- 
 tion, that they can bring fifty thousand men into the field. 
 Each regiment is commanded by from two to ten princi- 
 pal officers, that are called Indooiias, of which one is 
 considered as the commandant ; and these are assisted by 
 an inferior class, who have charge of the different sections, 
 and attend principally to the distribution of provisions 
 and the shields, &c. 
 
 During the reign of Charka, no soldier was permitted to 
 marry until he had distinguished himself in war. At 
 present this regulation has undergone a considerable 
 modification ; but still in all cases the King's consent 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 93 
 
 must be obtained, and this is seldom given but to the 
 Umpagate. It is no unusual thing on any great occasion 
 for the King to issue an order for a whole regiment to 
 marry ; and, strange as such a decree would sound to 
 European ears, it would be a happy circumstance if such 
 sweeping orders were more frequent, as, unfortunately, 
 there is no limit to those who are excluded from this in- 
 dulgence in the number of the concubines they may choose 
 to take. This is done upon principle ; and I have heard it 
 gravely asserted as one of the wisest enactments for ren- 
 dering a soldiery efficient, by keeping them thus aloof 
 from family attachments, and unshackled by domestic 
 attractions ! I naturally refrain from entering further 
 into detail, having only glanced at the surface of this pain- 
 ful subject, which is so interwoven with their habits and 
 character, that it is likely to present a formidable obstacle 
 to religious improvement. The example of both Charka 
 and Dingarn has tended greatly to uphold this baneful 
 system, neither of whom was ever legally married accord- 
 ing to the customs of the country. 
 
 Unkunginglove, which is the present seat of govern- 
 ment, and by far the largest town in the kingdom, is 
 strictly an ekanda, officered by about twenty Indoonas, 
 including Umthlella and Tambooza, who, being the two 
 national councillors and head Indoonas, are superior to all 
 others. By far the greater portion of the soldiers com- 
 posing this regiment (about nine hundred strong) are 
 chiefs of smaller towns, bearing the appellation of In- 
 
94 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 doona or Umnumzana (head of a village) ; and it is evi- 
 dently with a political view of state surveillance, that the 
 most influential of these are formed into this description 
 of body-guard, and that all in rotation are obliged to 
 appear and reside for some time in the capital, where they 
 become not only hostages for the good conduct of those 
 dependent upon them, but are thereby prevented from 
 plotting any scheme for the subversion of the existing 
 government. It may be unnecessary to add, that the 
 King has spies in all directions — an office which is here 
 held in no ill repute ; and, consequently, it is difficult to 
 obtain information on many subjects, as the most trivial 
 conversation is often reported to him. Considerable 
 authority is delegated to the principal Indoona of each 
 ekanda, as well to inflict punishment as to reward ; and 
 he is always entrusted with a supply of brass armlets and 
 collars for the decoration of those whom he considers 
 deserving of such distinctions. 
 
 Laws, — During the reign of Charka every principal 
 Indoona had the power of life and death ; but this has 
 since been greatly curtailed, Dingarn, on his accession, 
 restricting it to three individuals only — Umthlella, Tam- 
 booza, and Eoto (the Indoona of Congella). 
 
 In a country where there is no written language, a 
 stranger, during a short residence, can obtain but a very 
 cursory acquaintance with laws and usages sanctioned 
 only by custom and traditionary record ; I shall therefore 
 prefer offering a blank upon this subject to advancing 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 95 
 
 what may hereafter prove to be erroneous information, 
 and content myself with merely stating what crimes are 
 capitally punished — 
 
 Adultery. 
 
 Witchcraft. 
 
 Speaking evil of the King. 
 The houses of malefactors are always taken down ; and 
 the sticks by which they are beaten to death, and the dress 
 they wore, are thrown away, and never allowed to be used 
 afterwards. 
 
 Customs apparently of Jewish Origin, — 1. Circum- 
 cision. — This rite, which is now obsolete, obtained until 
 Charka's reign. He allowed it to go into desuetude in 
 his own person, and his example has been followed by the 
 whole nation. 
 
 2. It is the usual custom, though not absolutely 
 obligatory, for the younger brother to marry the widow 
 of his deceased brother. 
 
 3. On any apprehension of infection, one of the 
 egeer'^kha (or doctors) passes through the town, bearing a 
 bunch of small boughs or herbs, followed by a person 
 bearing a large bowl of water, into which the boughs 
 are frequently dipped as he goes along, and the door 
 and entrance of every house sprinkled. This took place 
 during my first stay at Unkunginglove, in consequence 
 of several of the people who had assembled at the 
 dances having, on their return home, been attacked with 
 sickness. Both the hut which I inhabited, and that of 
 my interpreter, were included, and even the ground about 
 
96 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 the gateway of the town was subject to this mysterious 
 cleansing. 
 
 4. The Festival of the First Fruits. — This custom 
 is not peculiar to the Zoolus, but obtains among all the 
 neighbouring nations, and appears now to be perpetuated 
 for a double purpose — to prevent improvidence in commen- 
 cing upon the first corn crops too early, and to afford an 
 opportunity for assembling and reviewing the nation pre- 
 paratory to w ar. The first ripe corn is partaken of by the 
 King, before one of his subjects dares, under heavy penal- 
 ties, to taste it. IMuch ceremony is observed, and the 
 annual dances are then commenced, during the continu- 
 ance of which the greater part of the nation assemble at 
 the capital. 
 
 5. A propitiatory Offering to the Spirit of the King's 
 immediate Ancestor. — No altar, prayer, or ceremony of any 
 kind, is observed ; the^bullock is killed within the cattle- 
 fold, contrary to the ordinary practice, and the flesh is 
 cooked and partaken of in that very spot— an observance 
 peculiar to such occasions. 
 
 Connected with this subject, I would merely remark, 
 as a singular coincidence, that the proper name of Ham is 
 not uncommon among the Zoolus. On hearing it called 
 once or twice, I made some inquiry, and was told that it 
 w^as generally given to those who had a fierce countenance 
 and a voracious appetite ; or, in other words, who were 
 *' hyena-men," as they were not inaptly designated. 
 
 Marriage, — A remarkable distinction is made by these 
 classifying people in the designation even of their women. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 97 
 
 An unmarried woman is called an Intomebi. 
 
 A married woman, but without children, Umfaz. 
 
 A married woman, with children, Eneena. 
 
 It is not regarded as a matter either of etiquette or of 
 delicacy from which side the first proposal of marriage 
 may proceed — the overture is as often made by the women 
 as the men. In the former case, the pseudo bride, accom- 
 panied by another unmarried woman, proceeds to the 
 residence of her elect, some married women following 
 them at a distance. Should the proposal be accepted, 
 the .matrons come up and commence singing: there are 
 no words to the song, but it is merely a melody of sounds. 
 On the next day a beast is slaughtered, and the bride 
 and bridegroom, with their friends, partake of the feast. 
 It is strictly required that every part of the flesh should 
 be eaten ; after which, the ceremony called Ingaaziso, or 
 washing with beads, takes place. The newly-married 
 couple, with their friends, being assembled, a calabash of 
 water and a basket of beads are brought. The beads are 
 first put into the calabash, and it is then presented to the 
 bride, who pours a little of the water first upon the hands 
 of her husband, and then upon those of her friends, who 
 extend them for the purpose. She then consigns the 
 calabash to her partner, who, in his turn, pours some of 
 the water first upon her hands, and then upon those of 
 his friends, until it is exhausted, when he returns it to 
 her. The bride then throws the beads at his feet, which 
 any of the party but himself are at liberty to pick up and 
 possess — in fact, it becomes a sort of scramble. This, 
 
 H 
 
89 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 as I am informed by a native, (for I have never witnessed 
 it,) finishes the ceremonies on such occasions— subordi- 
 nate, however, to the all-important consideration of 
 cattle ; for until that is duly arranged, the consent of all 
 parties is held in abeyance. 
 
 The usual sum demanded is from four to . six cows, 
 according to the circumstances of the parties, though, in 
 the case of chiefs' daughters, from twenty to fifty, or 
 one hundred head, are not unfrequent ; not, indeed, by 
 way of dower, but as a present to the father or nearest 
 relative of the lady, and partaking too much of the cha- 
 racter of a commercial barter. For the acquisition of 
 this species of property Dingarn has a great propensity, 
 often discarding a concubine, and obliging some wealthy 
 subject to marry her for the sake of the herd of cattle 
 which he nmst receive on the occasion. 
 
 Among the Kafir tribes, the marriage ceremonies are 
 much more significant. When all are assembled, a broom, 
 a bowl, and a grinding-stone are presented to the bride, 
 and some assegais and an axe to the bridegroom, as 
 indicatory of their different occupations, while both are 
 exhorted by the elders of the place to industry and good 
 conduct. 
 
 Both Jama and Senzanakona were married, but Charka, 
 in order to support his military system, broke through 
 this rule, partly, it is supposed, by way of example to his 
 subjects, and partly under an idea, that, as long as he 
 continued unmarried, he would not be regarded as a 
 veteran, and, consequently, his life would be less liable to 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 99 
 
 be cut short by the ambition of his successor, or the 
 intrigues of his subjects. The latter object, connected 
 with an evident desire to imitate his talented but inhuman 
 brother, seems to be the sole inducement with Dingarn 
 to perpetuate this departure from the better practice of his 
 forefathers. His frequent boast, " I am but a boy — I am 
 too young to marry," although at this present moment 
 about forty years of age, when taken in connexion with 
 the example of his predecessor, can have no other rational 
 meaning. 
 
 In connexion with this subject, there is a tragedy too 
 dark to be probed. Neither Charka nor Dingarn ever 
 allowed that they had any children, and it would be 
 instant death to any subject who should make such an 
 assertion ! My inquiries on this particular were always 
 met with evasion or constrained silence — a kind of 
 inquisitorial blight at once palsied the tongue, which 
 until that instant had been communicative and loquacious. 
 What could this mean ? Two facts, painfully notorious, 
 will sufficiently explain. On one occasion, perhaps from 
 some faint expectation of its being spared, an infant was 
 presented to Charka — the " hyena-man " instantly seized 
 » his own child by the heels, and, with one blow, deprived it 
 of that life, which with such a father it could have been 
 no privilege to enjoy. This horrid deed was only sur- 
 passed by the immediate murder of the agonised mother, 
 whose eyes closed with the vivid impressions of the scene 
 she had beheld. 
 
 Dress and personal A^ipearance. — Little can be said 
 
 h2 
 
100 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 on the first particular, with respect to the men, whose 
 undress, with the exception of a few dangling strips of 
 fur suspended from the waist, is but too notorious. Many 
 of the younger women wear merely a fringe belt, made of 
 the fibres of a root ; but a short skin petticoat, reaching 
 nearly to the bend of the knee, is the usual costume. 
 Both men and women shave their heads close, the former 
 leaving only sufficient to attach the issig5ko, or ring, and 
 the latter, a small tuft, called embeeti, on the crown, 
 which is carefully coloured with red ochre ; but neither 
 are worn until the individual has arrived at the age of 
 maturity, prior to which the heads of the young men are 
 not shaved. Strange to say, the will of the King is as 
 necessary for the adoption of either of these badges as in 
 any other of his despotic acts, a whole regiment being 
 sometimes ordered at once to adopt the ring. 
 
 That there is some tradition associated with this peculiar 
 costume, I have little doubt, but could never obtain a 
 further reply to my frequent inquiries on the subject, 
 than that it was an ancient custom, which, I believe, 
 originated with this nation, though it has been adopted 
 by many others. The method of putting it on is thus 
 described : — A piece of rush cut, and smoothed to the 
 proper size and length, is closely twisted round with sinew, 
 and formed into a circle by uniting the ends ; with sinew 
 it is then sewn to the roots of the hair, which in every 
 other part, even within the circle, is entirely removed, 
 and the ring thus closely fitted on the scalp, and blackened 
 over with the black wax of a honeycomb, is completed. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY 101 
 
 Being composed of several tribes and conquered nations, 
 a great difference of complexion is perceptible among the 
 Zoolus ; some few are nearly as light a copper colour as 
 the bushmen on the borders of the colony, but a dark 
 chocolate is the prevailing shade, though others, especially 
 from the neighbourhood of De la Goa Bay are jet black. 
 Dingarn himself is nearly so. The generality of the men 
 are of the middle size, light, active, and well-j)roportioned, 
 they are excellent walkers, and will almost compete with 
 the Syces of India in running. Although far from cleanly, 
 crawling into their houses upon their bare knees, and 
 accustomed to tread about with unconcern in all the filth 
 of the cattle-fold, both men and women are fond of bath- 
 ing, for which purpose they generally repair to the nearest 
 stream once a day, and after first smearing themselves over 
 with blue clay, if it can be procured, by way of soap, return 
 greatly embellished by the operation. 
 
 The war-dress consists of a thick, full kilt, composed of 
 cats' tails, descending nearly to the knee, the shoulders and 
 upper part of the body are decorated with the long hair of 
 ox tails, and the head is protected by an otter skin cap ; 
 the whole has a very martial appearance. The common tails 
 worn at other times, a few in front, and some longer and 
 more widely apart behind, are strips of wild cat and 
 monkey skins, and worn with the fur outside. 
 
 Language, — Although the Kafir and the Zoolu lan- 
 guages are very similar, there are not only many words in 
 the latter which are not found in the former, but the sig- 
 nification of the same word frequently differs in both. In 
 the Zoolu, the clicks are far less frequent, and from this. 
 
103 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 and Other peculiarities, it is considered by those competent 
 to judge, as at least a purer language than the Kafir, if 
 not that from which it was originally derived. 
 
 There can be no doubt that it is spoken over a consi- 
 derable tract of the interior country, not only by the tribes 
 acknowledging Umselekaz to the north-west, but by a 
 people under a chief named Sopuza, nearly due north of 
 Unkunginglove, inhabiting a country about the parallel 
 of De la Goa Bay, and also throughout the territory of 
 another powerful chief further north, called Sotchangan, 
 so that it may be considered as universal between the 31st 
 and 36th degrees of south latitude, and, with the exception 
 of a small territory bordering De la Goa Bay, from the 
 sea coast to the 29th degree of longitude. 
 
 While on this subject, it may be as well to remark, 
 that notwithstanding it has been hitherto the habit of all 
 writers on this part of Africa to employ the following terms, 
 caross, kraal, and assegai, as respectively indicating a skin 
 cloak, a native village, as also a cattle fold, and a dart or 
 spear, not one of them have any signification in any of the 
 native languages now spoken, and are generally believed 
 to have been a corruption of Dutch and Hottentol, but 
 it will only be necessary to give the Zoolu terms which 
 exactly correspond with the Kafir, in order to shew the 
 absurdity of perpetuating such an innovation. 
 
 Ingoobo . any garment, either cloak or petticoat. 
 Umzi . . a village. 
 Issibaia . a cattle fold. 
 Umkonto . a dart or spear. 
 Had not the term assegai already become so familiar 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 103 
 
 even to an English ear, it would not have appeared in this 
 journal; to have substituted the native word, might have 
 appeared like affectation ; with respect to the other two, 
 they were easily dispensed with altogether. 
 
 As there is a peculiarity in the expressions employed by 
 way of salutation among almost every nation differing in 
 language, it may not be out of place to give here the pre- 
 cise terms used by the Zoolus, with a literal translation. 
 
 Salutation . . Dakubona . . I have seen you. 
 
 Reply . . . Yearbo . . . yes. 
 
 or Debona wana . I see you. 
 
 sometimes . . Dea-fooma . . I agree. 
 
 Description of various Implements and other Articles 
 used hy the Zoolus, 
 The shield is made of ox hide, with a stick secured down 
 the middle, and ornamented at one end with leopards' fur, 
 it reaches from the ground to about the mouth of a mode- 
 rate sized person ; in windy and in wet weather they are 
 almost useless, and, in the latter case, are frequently rolled 
 up when on a march. The Zoolus prefer attacking in 
 open ground, contrary to the practice of the Kafirs, and 
 seldom throw, but stab with their short spears, of which 
 a bundle of five or six are usually taken when going to 
 war ; but arms are seldom borne in their own country, 
 excepting when on a hunting expedition, or making a 
 journey, and then a single umkonto, with one or two 
 straight sticks, is all they require. The shields of every 
 regiment are as nearly as possible of the same colour, and 
 
104 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 by this they are offcfT^i distinguished : thus the white and 
 the black Clomanthleen ; white is the favourite colour, 
 and has a good effect, contrasted with the black skin of 
 the bearers ; such are the shields of the Unkunginglove 
 men. 
 
 Musical Instruments. (See Plate 1.) 
 
 Fig. 4. The calabash attached to the bow, increases 
 and softens the sound produced by striking the string 
 with a short stick. 
 
 Fig. 5. Is a common reed pipe perforated by keys, and 
 blown like a child's penny trumpet, though at a distance 
 the sound is not unpleasant ; the same simple instrument 
 I have also seen used for a similar purpose by the natives 
 of Tahiti and other islands in the South Seas. 
 
 Fig. 6. A goat or sheep's leg bone, from which a sound 
 is produced by blowing across the smaller end, as children 
 do into the pipe of a key. The shrill notes of some of the 
 wind instruments employed in the band of the late Dey of 
 Algiers, have often grated my ears, but the sudden jar 
 produced by this far surpasses any thing of the kind I 
 ever endured. So much has already been effected by the 
 surprise of a galvanic shock, that it may be a question how 
 far a beneficial result may not, in some extreme cases, be 
 produced through a different organ, by means of this in- 
 strument of oral torture. In every great dance it was always 
 introduced, and as invariably sent me to the opposite side 
 of the ring. My memoranda of the name's of these 
 instruments have been lost, but I doubt not, from the 
 above description, which I believe contains nearly all that 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 105 
 
 can be said upon this head, the profession will sustain it 
 without much regret. 
 
 Method of Smelting Brass, 
 
 The bellows is worked by directing the cow's horn, 
 which forms the nozzle of two leathern bags, into the 
 larger end of an eland's horn, and alternately raising 
 and depressing them ; by which means the opening at 
 the top is closed or shut with the hand, as shown in 
 Plate 1, Fig. 7. The crucible is sunk its whole depth 
 into a bed of ignited charcoal, to the lower part of which 
 the extremity of the eland's horn is directed, and in this 
 manner the metal is molten, and either run into bars for 
 forming throat rings and armlets, or into smaller clay 
 moulds for the knobs and studs w ith which the wom.en 
 frequently ornament their girdles and ingoobos (petti- 
 coats). The crucible is composed of a coarse sand stone, 
 procured in many parts of the country, and capable of 
 sustaining any degree of heat without splitting. The 
 greater proportion of this metal is procured from the 
 Portuguese settlement at De la Goa, an intermediate 
 tribe of Zoolus near the Bay conveying it for them to 
 Unkiinginglove or Congella, and receiving in return ivory 
 and cattle. There is no doubt that the whole of this 
 trade might be transfered to Port Natal ; indeed Dingarn 
 has expressed as much, provided he is as well supplied 
 with brass, which is generally sent out in bars about a 
 foot long and an inch in thickness. Iron is abundant 
 in many parts of the country, but it is only worked in 
 
106 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 the mountains, about the head of the Araatikoola, 
 whence sufficient is procured for the heading of all their 
 assegais, axes, and hoes. 
 
 Fig. 8. Egoodu, or Smoking Horn. — The tobacco is 
 placed at the end of a reed introduced into the side of an 
 ox's horn, which is filled with water, and the mouth applied 
 to the upper part of the horn. The quantity of smoke 
 which is inhaled through so large an opening, unconfined 
 by a mouth-piece, often affects the breath, and produces 
 much coughing ; notwithstanding which, the natives are 
 particularly fond of it. Tobacco composed of the dried 
 leaf of the wild hemp, here called Dacca, is in general 
 use, and has a very stupifying effect, frequently intoxi- 
 cating ; on which occasions they invariably commence, 
 long and loudly, to praise the king — a soliloquy which 
 has often disturbed me, though at some distance from the 
 hut whence it proceeded. Dacca is indigenous through- 
 out the country, and tobacco is frequently seen growing 
 wild near deserted villages, but it has, I understand, 
 been imported. Though smoking is comparatively con- 
 fined to few, all, without exception, are passionately 
 fond of snuff, and no greater compliment can be offered 
 than to share the contents of a snuff-calabash with your 
 neighbour. For this purpose the hand is extended, 
 and a certain quantity shovelled in by means of a small 
 ivory spoon, the whole of which is then sniffed off from 
 the palm of the hand ; and worse than a Goth would 
 that barbarian be, in their estimation, who would wan- 
 tonly interrupt a social party so employed. Often have 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 107 
 
 I been obliged, patiently, to await the disappearance of 
 the last grain, rather than too harshly urge them on, 
 even when on a journey requiring speed. 
 
 Fig. 9. Etoonga, or wooden milk pail, used only by the 
 king's herdsmen. — While collecting the cattle together, 
 and during the whole operation of milking, they utter a 
 shrill whistling noise, which, from habit, the cows attend 
 to and become more quiet. 
 
 Fig. 1 0. Issigoongu, or bowl for containing outchualla 
 (native beer). — It is composed of black earthenware made 
 by hand without the aid of a wheel. 
 
 Fig. 11. Wooden spoons. — The smaller one, merely the 
 longitudinal section of a calabash, is the most frequently 
 used, though both are often dispensed with. 
 
 Fig. 12. Snuff calabash, and spoon. — The snuff is com- 
 posed of dried dacca ground with burnt aloes ; the spoon 
 is of ivory. 
 
 Fig. 13. Issitiigo-tugo or scraping-knife. — Made of 
 ivory, and used in hot weather to scrape the moisture from 
 the forehead and face. 
 
 Having now embodied the few memoranda to which 
 I have alluded, I will pass at once to the J ournal, which 
 commences about this time. 
 
108 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 JOURNAL. 
 
 Saturday^ April Q>5th, —In consequence of the number 
 of Zoolus who at different times have taken refuge here, 
 and the frequent threats of reprisal from Dingarn, which 
 have recently become more alarming, a meeting of the 
 Europeans was held this afternoon, at Mr. Cane*s, to 
 devise some plan for our mutual security. After some 
 little discussion, on which many plans were advanced, it 
 was unanimously resolved, that, as this appeared to be a 
 favourable opportunity, a treaty, based on the following 
 terms, should, if possible, be entered into with Dingarn, 
 viz. Provided he will guarantee the lives and property of 
 every individual, white and black, now residing at Port 
 Natal ; we, on our part, engage to repel with all our 
 power, and never more to receive any deserter from his 
 dominions ; and immediately to acquaint him of the cir- 
 cumstance, should any of his people elude our vigilance. 
 It was at the same time agreed that no deserters should , 
 be given up until some arrangement of this nature had 
 met with his sanction. Having been requested by the 
 meeting to undertake the negociation, I made arrange- 
 ments for commencing the journey as early as possible. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 109 
 
 Sunday ^^ih. 
 
 " Ye are not your own, for ye are bought with a price, therefore 
 glorify God in your body, and in your spirit, which are God's." 
 (1 Corinth, vi. 19, 20.) 
 
 Servants of a God of love ! 
 
 What a privilege is ours ; 
 Let our hearts be fixed above, 
 
 Let us yield Him all our powers. 
 
 Think, oh ! think the price He paid, 
 
 Free and costly — 'twas His blood ! 
 What a debt on us is laid, 
 
 Washed and ransomed in that flood. 
 
 Freed from sin's debasing chain, 
 
 " Whose we are — Him let us serve ;" 
 Love should all our thoughts constrain, 
 
 For nothing we can e'er deserve. 
 
 'Tis for this on earth we're sent, 
 
 Health and strength are not our own ; 
 Life itself is only lent. 
 
 On the altar to be thrown. 
 
 Living sacrifices here, 
 
 Let us consecrate each day ; 
 Let the love of Christ endear 
 
 Every trial by the way. 
 
 He who bought us still is nigh. 
 
 Though we are helpless. He has power, 
 Grace and fulness to supply. 
 
 And shield us in the trying hour. 
 
 Joyful then our course we'll run. 
 
 Till the promised prize we gain ; 
 Share the glory Christ has won. 
 
 Behold Him who for us was slain. • 
 
110 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Tuesday ^%th, — Yesterday afternoon, at about four 
 o'clock, I set out on my second visit to Dingarn, accom- 
 panied by a hired waggon, my interpreter, and two native 
 servants, Umpondombeeni and Dingezwa. We passed 
 the night on a hill three miles beyond the Umgani, but 
 were unable to proceed before half-past eight this morning ; 
 my horse, although knee-tied, having strayed back to the 
 river. At half-passed twelve crossed the Umslutie, and 
 stopped to breakfast, proceeding again at twenty minutes 
 past three. Throughout this country there is a high grass 
 frequently met with, which is very fragrant, at this season 
 it was particularly grateful. The blade is broad and long, 
 and the reedy stem, at the top of which are the seeds 
 which emit the scent, often rises to the head of a person 
 on horseback. The stem when dry is in general use 
 among the natives as a fire-stick, and is the only substitute 
 for a lamp which they possess. Advancing about half a 
 mile, a view of the sea is obtained, but which is soon 
 after obstructed by the hills ; on the left is a distant range 
 of table-topped mountains, each terminating very abruptly. 
 The chief employment of the Europeans about Port 
 Natal is in hunting the elephant and buffalo; one party 
 we had already passed, and as the evening closed in, and 
 we were about to ascend a hill for our night's bivouac, 
 we fell in with a second so grotesquely habited, and in so 
 wild a situation, that I could not resist scribbling in my 
 journal the following doggerel lines, in order to amuse 
 the solitude while accompanying on horseback my waggon 
 at its stately pace. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 Ill 
 
 THE NATAL HUNTERS. 
 
 In olden times we oft have heard, 
 Though many deem those tales absurd, 
 
 Of half tamed men called Buccaneers 
 Who scoured the sea, and oft the land, 
 On plunder bent, with sword in hand. 
 
 Cutting off noses, sometimes ears. 
 
 Now these men, as the story runs. 
 
 Were strangely garbed, though armed with guns, 
 
 And blunderbluss, and spear; 
 All men of wild terrific mien. 
 The fiercest that their foes had seen. 
 
 Transfixing all with fear. 
 
 Now just such men as these I've seen. 
 As wild to view — on slaughter keen ; 
 
 But, perhaps, you'll think I'm jesting; 
 'Twas but the other night I found 
 The ruffians seated on the ground, 
 
 Each from his labours resting. 
 
 White, brown and black, of varied hue, 
 Composed this strange — this motley crew, 
 
 The sullen Hottentot and blithesome Kali ; 
 So long unshaved the whites had been, 
 Thick bristles stood on every chin ; 
 
 Despised the toil of washing daily. 
 
 Each proud Incosi* stood erect. 
 Which added much to the effect. 
 
 The rest like monkeys crouched behind ; 
 It would not many words require, 
 To give an inventory entire, 
 
 Of all their habiliments combined. 
 
 * Native term formaster or chief. 
 
JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Four leathern trowsers duly worn 
 With woollen frocks, some badly torn, 
 
 Two bonnets roug-e — a hat crowned. 
 Three shoes that ne'er had covered hose, 
 With openings wide t'admit the toes, 
 
 Were all the four white people owned. 
 
 In suits of ditto, closely fitted^, 
 The natives never can be pitied, 
 
 One garment lasts them all their days ; 
 But Hottentots on finery bent, 
 xAre not so easily content, 
 
 And ape their moody masters' ways. 
 
 The lip moustached — the sallow face, 
 Denote that haughty, thankless race, 
 
 They'd sell their skin for brandy ; 
 E'en Erin's sons they far eclipse. 
 In placing goblets to their lips. 
 
 Whene'er they find them handy. 
 
 A few I marked with strange attire, 
 While crowding- round a blazing fire. 
 
 Some sea-cow fat devouring. 
 Red caps and tattered frocks they wore, 
 With brigantines besmeared with gore, 
 
 Like border bandits lowering. 
 
 In strange confusion, round them strewed. 
 Muskets and powder-horns I viewed. 
 
 With skins, and fat, and dogs, and game ; 
 For neither elephant nor buffalo 
 They ever leave in peace to go, 
 
 But fell with deadly aim. 
 
 I've seen the savage in his wildest mood. 
 And marked him reeked with human blood, 
 But never so repulsive made ; 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 113 
 
 Something incongruous strikes.-the mind, 
 Whene'er a barb'rous race we find. 
 With shreds of civil life displayed. 
 
 There's more of v«;ymmetry, however bare. 
 In what a savage deigns to wear, 
 
 In keeping with the scene ; 
 These, each deformed by vi'hat he wears, 
 Like apes thSt dance at country fairs. 
 
 Seemed but a link between. 
 
 'Twould puzzle poet— painter too — 
 In vivid colours bright and true 
 
 That living chaos to pourtray : 
 The twilight shed a ghastly glare 
 On all the group assembled there, 
 
 As round the llick'ring fires they lay. 
 
 The Zoolus' song, the white men's cheers, 
 With grating Dutch, assailed our ears. 
 
 As we approached their lair ; 
 E'en faithful Echo stood amazed 
 At the wild Babel they had raised 
 
 Upon the evening air. 
 
 E'en now the image haunts my brain! 
 Those hideous forms and shouts remain, 
 
 Like fever'd dreams on restless nights ; 
 And perhaps 'twere better here to end 
 These sorry rhymes, lest I offend 
 
 By painting such outlandish sights. 
 
 Thursday, SOfk. — Travelled yesterday until a quarter 
 past one, when we stopped to breakfast on the left bank of 
 the Umshlala, and in the afternoon reached the Mavootie, 
 the largest stream between the Umgani and Tugala. At 
 daylight this morning, observed the buffalo-birds very 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 busily employed, perched upon the backs of the oxen : they 
 are generally found where cattle or buffaloes are nume- 
 rous, living upon the insects which they find in their coats; 
 they are rather larger than a swallow, with a thick red bill, 
 and make a chirping noise during the whole -time they 
 are thus occupied. Soon after sunrise, descended the hill, 
 and crossed the Mavootie : from the ford the embouchure 
 of the river can be seen, the coast being not more than 
 three-quarters of a mile distant. The country, for a few 
 miles on each side of the river, is bare of trees. Passing 
 this district, a wild cat was started, which, pursued by the 
 people, took refuge in a tree, from which it was soon 
 pelted down with sticks, making a surprising bound to 
 reach the gi'ound. Its next retreat was a clump of bushes, 
 out of which, with the aid of a dog, it was at length beaten 
 and killed. In colour it very much resembled some of our 
 tabbies, but was considerably larger. It became so despe- 
 rate at last, that the dog would have been unable to 
 secure it, but for the assistance of the people. After 
 crossing the Norte, the country, as we approached the 
 Tugala, became more clothed with trees, chiefly mimosa. 
 Crossed the Singuassie at a quarter-past twelve, to break- 
 fast, and proceeding again at three, reached the Tugala, 
 through a beautiful and undulating country, at half-past 
 four. 
 
 The river being pronounced fordable, though over 
 the floor of the w^aggon, the necessary preparations were 
 made, by cutting stout poles, and laying them across the 
 sides, aL'd on these the contents of the waggon were 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 115 
 
 placed, leaving a clear passage for the water below. 
 Having procured assistance from Mambayendi, we pro- 
 ceeded to the ford, but so steep was the descent to the 
 water, that it was only by the weight of several natives 
 holding on the ropes attached to the right side of the 
 waggon, that its equilibrium was preserved. Once in the 
 stream, all went on well, though it was necessary to make 
 a considerable circuit, in order to prevent the oxen from 
 actually getting out of their depth. The whole scene 
 was highly amusing — the floundering of the oxen, the 
 energy of the drivers, the loose cattle urged on by a 
 number of natives, wading with the lighter baggage — the 
 river itself (a fine feature) wending through precipitous 
 banks, altogether left an impression I shall not easily 
 forget. The day closed upon us as we ascended the 
 opposite bank ; and being too dark to proceed, I rode on 
 to a village, two miles distant, in order to obtain a guide, 
 which was effected not without difficulty, the man him- 
 self losing his way while attempting to direct me back to 
 the waggon ; however, we all soon after reached Mangnenas 
 village, and I again occupied the same hut in which I had 
 slept on my former journey. 
 
 Friday, May 1st, — The darkness of the preceding 
 night having obliged me to leave several things to ])e 
 carried across the river this morning, we were unable to 
 proceed until half-past ten. Umpondombeeni preceded 
 to show the way, being the only person in the party 
 acquainted with it ; but as native footpaths are the only 
 tracks, and he was but little experienced in the description 
 
 1 2 
 
120 
 
 JfOURNEY TO THE 
 
 range. This toilsome ride was occasionally enlivened by 
 numbers of men, whom we met, accoutred with head- 
 plumes and shields, on their return from Congella, where 
 the King was now residing, and before whom they had 
 been engaged in driving cattle furiously, for his amuse- 
 ment. During the whole of this journey the weather had 
 been beautiful, and the sky generally without a cloud. At 
 a little before one we obtained the first view of Congella, 
 the tops of the huts just appearing above the circular fence 
 which covered the slope of an opposite hill. As we wound 
 up the ascent towards the gate, Mambayendi, who had 
 preceded me, made his appearance, and soon after went to 
 inform the King of my arrival. He soon returned with a 
 message from Dingarn, to inquire whether I should wish 
 to have a house, thinking, probably, that I should prefer 
 the waggon. On being answered in the affirmative, the 
 chief Indoona was desired to furnish a large one, and, in 
 little more than a quarter of an hour, I was snugly seated 
 in my new abode, though, as usual, sadly crowded with 
 curious visiters. The King having previously inquired 
 what provisions I wished, sent a good supply of outchualla 
 (beer), some milk and Kafir corn-meal ; and while we were 
 regaling ourselves on the two former (being the first food 
 we had tasted this day), Mambayendi again appeared, to 
 inform me that the King had presented an ox, but that, 
 as it was his wish that the hide should be returned to him 
 for shields, he requested it might be killed in the usual 
 manner. The unfortunate animal was soon afterwards 
 speared, but walked some distance before it fell, and even 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 121 
 
 then lingered some minutes before it expired. At a little 
 before six Dingarn sent to signify his desire to see me. 
 He was seated on the outside of the high fence which 
 incloses his Issigordlo, or palace, habited in the same blue 
 dungaree cloak which he had so often worn at Unkungin- 
 glove, made somewhat more gaudy by a strip or two of 
 some red baize I had given him, sewn on the skirts. 
 Scarcely had I seated myself, when his inquiries were 
 directed to a leathern sack, borne by Umpondombeeni, 
 and placed on the ground beside me. On being told that 
 it contained some few presents intended for him, he was 
 all curiosity until the whole had been displayed before him, 
 consisting of a long deck glass, a pair of naval epaulettes, 
 three pairs of lady's gilt bracelets, a silk sword-belt and 
 tassel, some small looking-glasses, rolls of coloured riband, 
 red baize, printed calico, and several coloured engravings 
 of English costume and field sports, with a view of the 
 Pavilion at Brighton, and a full-length portrait of George 
 the Fourth, and also of our present gracious Sovereign. He 
 was delighted with the epaulettes, but much puzzled how 
 to display them to the best advantage, until informed that 
 the shoulder was the proper place, and that they would 
 greatly become his red cloak, when he took the hint and 
 directed them to be sewn on it. His endeavour to squeeze 
 his wrists into the compass of the bracelets was quite 
 amusing ; fearing that he would break them, I assured, 
 him that in my country they were only worn by ladies. 
 "Ah!" he replied, ** they shall not wear them here." 
 With the prints he was greatly amused, and what sur- 
 
122 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 prised me not a little was, that he w as enabled to appre-^ 
 ciate the beauty of the female faces, which he pronounced 
 very handsome. He greatly admired the full-length por- 
 traits of the King, one in his robes, the other in a naval 
 imiform ; but was evidently more gratified with the hunting 
 scenes than with any that had been shewn him. While look- 
 ing over the view of the Pavilion, he called me near, to point 
 out the entrance, which happened to be hid by a coach 
 and four, represented as standing before the door. Observ- 
 ing also, among the groups in the same place, a gentleman 
 and lady arm-in-arm, he exclaimed with some surprise, Is 
 that your mode of walking with women ? " The sword-knot 
 was no sooner exhibited, than it was placed round his neck, 
 the tassel hanging in front. With the glass, which I had 
 purposely reserved for the last, he was highly gratified ; and 
 on once seeing it adjusted to the proper focus, he managed 
 it tolerably well himself, even declining my offer to assist 
 him in directing it to the moon, which was shining brightly 
 at the time. Having recommended the support of a man's 
 shoulder, he persevered until he succeeded in catching a 
 glimpse of the moon, when he exclaimed in triumph, 
 " Deaibona conalappa '* (I see it here). As no allusion 
 was made to the object of my visit (some idea of which 
 had already been conveyed to him by Mambayendi) I con- 
 cluded he was awaiting the return of the two Indoonas, 
 Umthlella and Tambooza, who were at Unkunginglove, and 
 had, I understood, been sent for immediately on the arrival 
 of Mambayendi. This interview lasted three-quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 US 
 
 Tuesday/, 5th. — Both yesterday and this morning I 
 have been visited by Eoto, the Indoona of this place, and 
 of the whole Clomanthleen district ; he is an elderly 
 person of mild appearance. While seated under a tree, to 
 which I afterwards walked, enjoying the view of a richly 
 wooded valley surrounded by mountains, about two miles 
 from the town, some men came up bearing a dead leopard 
 bound to a pole upon their shoulders ; it had been caught 
 a few miles distant, by the dogs, and afterwards speared ; 
 and they were now carrying it to the King, from whom 
 they expected the usual reward of a head or two of cattle. 
 There are three kinds of this species in the country, all 
 included by the Dutch and the Colonists under the general 
 name of Tiger, although that animal is here unknown, 
 the panther and the leopard alone being met with on this 
 part of the continent. While engaged at the waggon, 
 which had been drawn up near the gate, I received a visit 
 from Ulaiigazana, one of Senzanakona's wives, who resides 
 here ; although only an inferior wife of his father, she 
 bears, with many others, the appellation of " the King's 
 Mother." She is of middle age ; possesses a mild and intel- 
 ligent countenance ; and, like her august relative, is of a 
 very dignified size. So rigidly are infants proscribed from 
 these military towns, that I was last night much surprised 
 at hearing the cry of one in an adjoining hut, and observ- 
 ing several young children in the course of the day. I 
 found on inquiring, that in consequence of the King 
 having been brought up when a child among the people 
 of this place, an exception has been made in its favour. 
 
124 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 There is something so repulsive in this unnatural exclu- 
 sion, that this circumstance alone has prepossessed me 
 in favour of Congella, more especially as it is thus calcu- 
 lated to afford a wider field for Missionary lahour than 
 Unkunginglove. It is between these two places that Din- 
 garn generally divides the year ; the latter however, being 
 the capital, is his principal residence. 
 
 The setting sun gives a remarkable effect to the bold 
 mountain ridges which surround this town ; and I was 
 returning to my hut after witnessing this splendid scene, 
 when my attention was attracted by a number of female 
 voices ascending from the valley. A string of women, 
 forty-one in number, bearing large bowls of beer upon 
 their heads, soon made their appearance, winding up the 
 hill, singing as they went, until they reached the Issigordlo. 
 They had come from one of Eoto's places, where, during 
 the King's residence here, the beer for himself and his 
 umpagati is prepared. 
 
 Wednesday, 6th. — My enemies, the rats, are here in 
 greater force than ever ; and, although I purposely brought 
 a stretcher with me, in the hope of raising my bed beyond 
 their reach, one of them actually contrived to perch upon 
 my head in the course of the night. This morning 
 Umthlella and Tambooza arrived. It is singular to trace 
 the rapidity with which every the most trivial conversation 
 I hold with the people is conveyed to the King. Having 
 yesterday inquired respecting the appropriation of the 
 leopard skin, and understood that it would be given to one 
 of the Zebongas, or praisers, to make a new dress for the 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 125 
 
 dance, one of them by order of Dingarn was sent down 
 early this morning, habited in the same skin cloak in 
 which he had appeared at Unkunginglove, which he 
 exhibited for some time, praising the King, leaping and 
 floundering about in imitation of the wild animal which 
 he was supposed to personate, but of the two appeared 
 the more ferocious. As I was now enabled to inspect his 
 dress more narrowly, I took the opportunity to sketch his 
 appearance as he stood before the hut. 
 
 At four o'clock a message came from the King, desiring 
 to see me ; and knowing his passion for dress, and conclud- 
 ing that he would now enter upon the business of my visit, 
 I went up in full uniform. He was seated as before, just 
 without his fence, accompanied, at a respectable distance by 
 Umthlella and Tambooza. Having seated myself, I waited, 
 as usual, for the King to commence the conversation, until 
 I feared my silence might appear rude, when I inquired of 
 Mambayendi, who accompanied me, whether he was wait- 
 ing for me to speak. Dingarn, who overheard my question, 
 and was eying my dress with great earnestness, replied 
 that he must have time to look at me before he could say 
 anything. I told him that this was my war dress, and 
 that I always wore it when I approached my own sove- 
 reign. He said it was very handsome, and commenced a 
 close examination of every part, particularly the sword, 
 which I handed to him. Seeing that he was greatly 
 pleased with the workmanship of the hilt, tassel, &c., I 
 said that if he would like to have it I would present it to 
 him. He readily accepted it, saying that he " liked 
 
136 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 every thing," and amused himself for some time with 
 drawing and sheathing it again. The ridiculous part of the 
 ceremony being over, Dingarn commenced the business 
 by observing that he had not before asked me respecting 
 the new^s I had brought, as the Indoonas were absent, but 
 that now they w^re come he wished to hear it. A meeting 
 of the white people at Port Natal, I informed him, had 
 lately taken place, to consider what was the best method 
 to prevent his people from deserting and coming down to 
 us in future. The advice I had given, and which was 
 unanimously adopted, was then stated, as also the request 
 that I should communicate it to him, which I was glad to 
 undertake, being desirous at all times to be the King's friend. 
 In reference to the proposition to send deserters back, pro- 
 vided he agreed to the arrangement, he asked, " Would you 
 send them bound ?" " We could do nothing," I replied, " un- 
 less he agreed to guarantee the lives and property of every 
 individual now residing at Port Natal. The white people 
 were but few, while the natives were comparatively nume- 
 rous ; and as the greater part were deserters from him, they 
 would never (being themselves in similar circumstances) be 
 induced to lend their aid to secure a single individual who 
 sought refuge among them ; and, however desirous the 
 white people might be to second the views of the King, 
 it would be quite beyond their power, as the natives 
 would contrive to harbour and secrete them in defiance 
 of all their vigilance. On the other hand, once assured 
 of their pardon and security, the black people would, 
 I had no doubt, assist us ; and it would then be difficult 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 127 
 
 for any deserter to make his escape.'* Dingarn at once en- 
 tered into the plan, which he considered equitable ; and after 
 picking a little of the fence, and considering a minute or two, 
 he turned round and with some energy said, he granted 
 all ; that he would never molest any of his subjects now 
 at Natal for past offences ; that he should keep fast his 
 word ; but that he knew the white people would be the first 
 to break the treaty." I observed here, that " true English- 
 men never broke a treaty ; that it had always been our 
 boast to adhere to them ; and that, if he had met with 
 white people who had deceived him, he had been unfor- 
 tunate—they were not the right sort of Englishmen.'* 
 Dingarn replied, I believe you. I am glad, very glad, 
 and thank you much for the word you have brought. 
 I have seen many white people, but now a great chief is 
 come among us, to whom I can speak my heart." I 
 told him that " I needed no thanks ; that it was only my 
 duty ; that I feared God, and therefore he might rely 
 upon all I told him, for I dared not speak what w^as not 
 true. In God's word we were told to do to others as we 
 would be done by ; and, therefore, while in his country, I 
 should study his interest as much as I should that of my 
 own sovereign." Here he pointed his finger at me in their 
 usual style of recognition and satisfaction when animated, 
 and again thanked me for the good word I had brought. 
 The particular object of the conference being now con- 
 cluded, the sword again became his plaything, and he 
 asked several questions respecting the devices on the hilt 
 and blade, particularly how the lion's head was formed. 
 Dingarn then inquired the object of Mr. Fynn's mission to 
 
128 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Faku ; which I told him was to encourage Faku, who had 
 resolved to stand fast by the English, who were driving the 
 Amakasa before them, and were shortly expected to enter 
 Hinza's territory. Being desirous, while on this subject, to 
 impress him with some idea of the power of the field-pieces 
 which accompanied the British force in Kafirland, I could 
 scarcely keep my countenance on hearing them designated 
 by the ridiculous term " by and bye," an adopted expression 
 now universally applied to cannon or great guns. The 
 origin of this term is somewhat curious. Lieutenant 
 Farewell, R.N., who was the first settler at Port Natal, 
 had constructed a fort round his house, on which some 
 carriage-guns were mounted *. These guns excited much 
 curiosity among the natives, and he was frequently ques- 
 tioned by them as to their use. His usual reply was, 
 " You shall see by and bye ;" until hearing the last words 
 so frequently repeated in reference to the guns, they 
 naturally concluded that was the proper name. A mes- 
 senger was now sent for the coloured prints, in order that 
 they might be exhibited before the Indoonas. Certainly 
 nothing could have been more happy than the selection. 
 Dingarn was delighted with every one, and told me that 
 during the whole of yesterday, until the sun went down, 
 he had amused himself with looking them over. Observing 
 a carriage drawn by horses, in one of the prints, he 
 expressed his surprise that they should be employed for 
 such a purpose, having always imagined, as he said, that 
 waggons were only drawn by oxen. Having never seen any 
 
 No vestige remains of these buildings. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 129 
 
 other description of wheeled carriage, it was difficult to 
 convey an idea of the distinction, and he seemed astonished 
 at the rapidity with which I told him carriages in Eng- 
 land were whirled along. It was amusing to observe that 
 the Indoonas were as much struck with the beauty of the 
 female portraits as Dingarn, which, considering the anti- 
 pathy generally evinced by blacks to a white skin, could 
 hardly have been anticipated. Dingarn was quite ani- 
 mated while talking over the sporting pieces, and, in imi- 
 tation of one of the scenes (partridge shooting), placed the 
 hilt of the sword to his shoulder, and pointed it upwards, 
 in the attitude of taking aim. Contrary to my expectation, 
 he had contrived to squeeze his wrists into a pair of the 
 bracelets I had given him yesterday, and which I had 
 thought scarcely possible. At half-past five, I took my 
 leave, thankful at the good success of this my first attempt 
 at negotiation. 
 
 Thursday^ ^iJi, — This morning, had a long conversa- 
 tion with Umthlella and Tambooza, in my hut ; making 
 them at the same time a present, consisting of cloth, printed 
 calico, and a few naval buttons. I told them that my heart 
 was still as anxious as before to speak to them the words 
 of God, and that I should be much obliged if they would 
 take my words to the King. They both replied in the most 
 friendly manner, saying that they had held fast the word 
 which I had spoken yesterday, namely, that I desired to be the 
 King's friend ; that those were good words, and had made 
 their hearts glad. They said, that the King's heart was now 
 towards me, and inquired if there was any thing else which 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 I wished them to mention to him. I told them that the 
 King had well provided for all my wants ; that I had nothing 
 further so ask, and no other wish, but his permission to 
 tell them what God had said. It was, I informed them, 
 by keeping His word that we had risen to be a great 
 people, and as it was my desire to do them good I wished 
 them also to become acquainted with it. They left me, 
 much pleased with the presents, and promised to acquaint 
 the King with what I had said. Though not relevant to 
 this subject, I cannot omit the curious reply of Umthlella 
 to my question — " How do you manage to sleep with so 
 many rats continually running over you ? " " We don't mind 
 them," he said ; " it's only play ; they are poor little wild 
 animals, looking about for food ; the only harm they do us, 
 is eating our corn." I felt almost inclined to envy the 
 perfect indifference with which he treated these unwelcome 
 visiters. The evening set in with heavy rain, which, much 
 to my inconvenience, penetrated my hut in several places. 
 Dingarn kindly sent to inquire if I was cold, and whether 
 I should not like a fire. I desired the messenger to assure 
 him that I was very comfortable, but I had not at that time 
 discovered the leaks in my roof. 
 
 Friday, St/i, — Dingarn sent to say, that some of the 
 people had observed me walking about alone among the 
 bushes, a long way from the town, and that he recom- 
 mended me not to go there again, as there were many wild 
 beasts in that part, and several of the people had been 
 taken off by them, and never heard of since. The fact is, 
 there is so little water about this place, and that so pol- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 131 
 
 luted by the washing of hides for shields, &c., that I had 
 crossed the mountain in quest of a place to bathe, and, 
 finding the walk ami scenery so pleasant, had been induced 
 to extend it. Having desired them to thank the King for 
 his consideration, he soon after sent his servant Barka, 
 who, accompanied by Mambayendi, had directions to shew 
 me a place where the water was good, and much nearer. 
 
 Saturday, [)tJi, — Had a long interview this afternoon 
 with Dingarn, in the Issigordlo, the conversation was 
 nearly in the following words : — " To-morrow is our 
 holy- day, on which we do no work." Dingarn, — Are 
 not my people to do any work ? " A, " They have not yet 
 heard God's words : those who have understood them, will 
 not work on that day, but employ it in worshipping God ; 
 it is, therefore, my wish to say all that is in my mind, to 
 the King, on this day. It is necessary that the agree- 
 ment between us and the King should be taken to Port 
 Natal as soon as possible, as I wish the King's words to be 
 known there, and, therefore, it is my intention, that the 
 waggon should return the day after to-morrow, but I do 
 not wish to take leave of the King, without letting him 
 know all that is in my heart." Dingarn — Say on." 
 A. I feel just as anxious to do your people good as ever, 
 and I know that the best way is to teach them the word of 
 God. This was what I came up for before, and now it is 
 my only desire." Dingarn. — " It was in my heart to let 
 you stay and teach when you came before, but the Indoonas 
 were against it." A. \ thought so at the time. If the 
 King pleases, I will now stay for this purpose, but if not, 
 
 K 2 
 
134 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 King the waggon driver, were occupied, at Dingarri's 
 desire, in making him a cloak out of some handkerchief- 
 stuff, which I had given him. After once seeing the 
 method of using the scissors, Dingarn took them up, and 
 finished the cutting part himself in a very notable manner. 
 It was the first time he had ever used them, still he per- 
 severed, although complaining much of their pinching his 
 fingers. Both in coming and returning, I was greeted by 
 those of the King's women, who had seen me at Unkun- 
 ginglove, waving their hands, and calling out Cappan- 
 Garna," at the same time asking for snuff. The sumptu- 
 ary laws in this country, though somewhat more relaxed 
 than formerly, are still very rigid. Neither Umthlella nor 
 Tambooza, to whom I had this evening sent a present of 
 some printed calico, would allow their wives to wear it, with- 
 out first asking permission of the King ; which I afterwards 
 understood had been granted. The common blue checked 
 patterns they are allowed to wear ; but as this was a fancy 
 thing on a light ground, it was considered by them as too 
 gay for a subject. Soon after returning to my hut, the 
 King sent me a cow to slaughter, and Eoto a bowl of 
 outchualla. The King's women, I observed, still retained 
 their brass collars ; but, as the dancing season was now 
 over, the men had relinquished all their brass ornaments, 
 no doubt to their great relief, but their appearance was by 
 no means improved. 
 
 Sunday, ^Oth, — This has been a day of distinguished 
 mercy. The Lord has answered my prayers, and given 
 me good success — blessed be his holy name. May I ever 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY* 
 
 regard myself as only an humble instrument in His hands, 
 unworthy to be employed in His service, and ascribe to 
 Him all the wisdom, all the power, and all the glory. 
 He works not as man works — His ways and His times 
 are the fittest. Oh that he may prepare me by His 
 grace for the work which is before me, and grant that 
 the door which he has so graciously opened may be 
 effectual in giving light to those v/ho now sit in darkness 
 and the shadow of death, and incline the hearts of many to 
 go forth as labourers into this harvest ! Held the English 
 service in the tent, but greatly disturbed by the incessant 
 noise of the people, who were occupied in rebuilding and 
 removing their houses. 
 
 " Set your aifections on thing-s above." — (Coloss. iii. 2.) 
 
 I ask not wealth, but heavenly love, — 
 
 That holy fire that angels know, — 
 To raise my earthly thoughts above, 
 
 And bid my soul with rapture glow. 
 
 All is dark and dreary here. 
 
 Nature's noon a cheerless night. 
 Till the Lord of life appear. 
 
 Shedding beams of joy and light. 
 
 Oh for a living coal to touch 
 
 My lips, that I might speak his praise, 
 
 Whose all-constraining love was such, 
 He sought me when in sin's dark ways ! 
 
 What boundless love ! to pity one 
 
 So wretched — so depraved ; 
 Renew the grace I dared to shun, 
 
 Unwilling to be saved. 
 
136 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 While we sojourn here below, 
 
 More than half is yet untold ; 
 'Tis but little now we know, 
 
 Till death this veil of sense unfold. 
 
 But oh ! enough remains to swell 
 
 This thankless heart with grateful praise; 
 
 How should these lips his goodness tell. 
 Who kept and fed me all my days ! 
 
 But there's a sweeter strain than this, 
 That links our souls with saints above ; 
 
 And almost makes us taste their bliss — 
 The freeness of redeeming love. 
 
 Shall our cold hearts not burn to prove. 
 
 What highest seraphs long to know, 
 The riches of that dying love 
 
 Which brought the Lord of life below ? 
 
 When once these living streams we taste, 
 
 Like Sinai's fount, they never cease ; 
 But follow us through all the waste — 
 
 In life our joy — in death our peace I 
 
 And then the song on earth begun. 
 
 Eternity itself shall fill ; 
 And all that conquering love has done 
 
 Be ever new and endless still. 
 
 Monday, l lth. — Yesterday, at about eleven, a mes- 
 senger arrived from the King, who desh*ed to see me. 
 On my arrival I found him seated, as usual, near the 
 fence of the Issigordlo, accompanied only by the two 
 Indoonas. As soon as I was seated, he desired me to 
 repeat in their presence all that I had stated to him on 
 Saturday in reference to the teaching ; which I did nearly 
 in the same words, adding a brief sketch of the object 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 137 
 
 and character of true religion. I assured him that it was 
 not my intention to interfere with their laws or their 
 customs — that I had, from experience, learnt that the way 
 to true happiness was only to be found in God's Book. 
 It was by those words that kings were taught how to rule 
 aright — that subjects learnt obedience to their chiefs and 
 Indoonas — that we were told how to behave towards each 
 other ; to do to others as we would they should do to us ; 
 but especially we were taught by them the way to heaven 
 — how to escape that place of torment, where sinners 
 would go after death, and to reach that place of happiness 
 which was promised to all those who loved God here. 
 (The name of Christ was not mentioned, as I thought it 
 might perplex, not having then time to enter into the 
 necessary explanation). I then observed, that many other 
 nations had long had these words, and had been made 
 great and happy by them, and that it grieved me much 
 to think that they had not yet been made known to them. 
 During the latter part of this conversation, Dingarn 
 appeared deep in thought, looking earnestly at me, and 
 occasionally, as though abstracted, picking blades of grass 
 from under his chair ; and at the conclusion, he turned to 
 the Indoonas, and said, " Now, you must decide." Tam- 
 booza immediately replied, " Yes ! now we know that 
 God's news is good news. The reason we did not let 
 you remain before was, because we did not know you — we 
 wished you to go back and bring such a word as you have 
 now done — that news has made our hearts glad (alluding 
 to the terms of the treaty ; but this was a mere subter- 
 
138 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 fuge) — now we wish you to stay ; and where you are to 
 teach is in the Clomanthleen — that is the place — you 
 may teach in all the towns there." Dingarn having con- 
 firmed what had been said, Umthlella also assenting, I 
 thanked him and the Indoonas for the " fast word " which 
 had now been given, saying, that this day they had 
 made my heart glad. Tambooza, who appeared to be the 
 spokesman, inquired if I had any other request to make. 
 I told him that the King had prevented me from asking 
 any thing further ; that he had already liberally provided 
 for all my wants ; and that now he had granted the only 
 request it was in my heart to make, and left me nothing 
 more to desire. Dingarn then said, that he wished Man- 
 kanjana (Gomani's son) sent up to him*, and that he 
 promised no punishment should be inflicted upon him. 
 Fearing that he was beginning to vacillate in the terms 
 of the treaty, I reminded him that his name had not been 
 mentioned on the day when that agreement was made ; 
 but as I was aware that he had previously demanded 
 him, on his promise not to punish him, he should be sent, 
 at the same time he must not blame me should he not 
 make his appearance, as it was possible, though I did not 
 think it probable, that he had already left Port Natal. 
 
 He expressed himself as perfectly satisfied, observing, 
 that when he found he had been sent back, he should then 
 know that the white people at Port Natal intended to 
 observe the treaty. He then requested me to write the 
 substance of the present arrangement for the information of 
 * He had recently deserted to Port Natal. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 139 
 
 a trader, now in his country, and to whom he sent the 
 letter by a messenger. The following message to the 
 Great Chief, at Graham's Town (meaning his Excellency 
 Sir Benjamin D'Urban), was then given me by Dingarn : 
 " Mr. Fynn sent me the news about the Amakosa. I am 
 grieved to think they should act so against the white 
 people — those people whom I love. I have long let the 
 Amakosa alone. It is a pity the white people trouble 
 themselves with them— they should leave them to me. 
 I hope they will not destroy them all ; if they do, there 
 will be only a desert left. Let these words be told to all 
 the white people. Let the Great Chief at Graham's Town 
 know them, and let them be sent to King William 
 
 I told him that the English were a merciful people- 
 that it was this which had been the chief cause of the war. 
 The Amakosa had mistaken kindness for weakness, but 
 that now they would feel our power. He again said he 
 was very sorry, and hoped we should not drive them all 
 away. On promising that his message should be faith- 
 fully delivered, I took my leave. 
 
 For the purpose of enlarging the town, and giving a 
 greater space for cattle in the centre, the huts are all 
 about to be removed from the neighbourhood of the 
 inner to that of the outer fence. This operation is now 
 going on with great vigour : and, in order to save time and 
 trouble, many huts are carried on men's shoulders entire, 
 and set up again in the situation required. 
 
 * His principal alarm was lest the English forces should approach 
 too near to his own territory. 
 
140 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 The hyenas, attracted by the meat which garnished the 
 sides of the waggon, were howling all night, which kept 
 the dogs in such a constant cry, that T could obtain but 
 little sleep. 
 
 Yesterday Nongalaza, chief Indoona of the principal 
 military town in the Clomanthleen district, was formally 
 introduced to me by order of the King ; and as I had then 
 promised him, as well as the other two Clomanthleen chiefs, 
 a present, he this morning made his appearance, accom- 
 panied by Zulu and Cokella. My supply, however, would 
 only admit of my giving a piece of handkerchief stuff to 
 Nongalaza, with which he was much pleased, promising 
 each a cloth ingoobo when I came to take up my residence 
 among them. 
 
 Being delayed by a thunder storm, it was not until noon 
 that I went up to take my leave of Dingarn ; he was stand- 
 ing on the inside of his fence, upon a mound of earth, 
 several of which are placed like horse-blocks within, for 
 the purpose of raising him sufficiently above the fence, 
 whenever he wishes to be seen or observe what is doing 
 without. He immediately commenced a conversation re- 
 specting the deserters from the Injanduna, a military town 
 in the Clomanthleen, many of whom were at present at 
 Port Natal, saying with great emphasis "they must be sent 
 back." The working of his mind was evident — he had on 
 reflection regretted that these people had not been excepted 
 from the benefit of the treaty, and probably imagined that, 
 as I had conceded the point with respect to Mankanjana, 
 this might be as easily gained. At once I resolved to 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 Ill 
 
 make a firm stand for these people, well knowing that 
 otherwise there would be no limit to his demands, and in 
 fact the treaty itself would become nugatory. He com- 
 plained that, in consequence of their leaving him, that 
 part of the country had become a desert ; that he had often 
 requested the white people to send them back, but they 
 never had attended to his words. I told him that, had he 
 mentioned the circumstance at the time when the treaty 
 was talked over, they should have been sent ; but that, as 
 his word had now been given, and I had already sent it in 
 a letter, my respect for the king made me wish that the 
 word might not be altered; that should the Injandunas be 
 sent for, the other people would be alarmed with an 
 apprehension of being themselves recalled, and would 
 never be induced to assist us in securing deserters from 
 him : and without their aid, it was quite impossible that 
 we could execute the King's wishes. He replied, that since 
 I had asked for them they might remain, and should never 
 be sent for on account of desertion. I then stated that he 
 must not imagine that I had any wish to keep them ; my 
 reason for pleading for them was, that the King's word 
 might not be altered : he had said nothing respecting them 
 on the day when the treaty was concluded, and I hoped 
 he would not now alter that. It was true, he replied, he 
 had said nothing about them then, and therefore he 
 would not ask for them now. The subject, much to my 
 relief, was then dropped, and he inquired respecting the 
 probable time of my return — what size the moon would 
 then be, whether it would be full or on the wane — " just 
 
U2 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 about to break" as he described it. Orders, he said, had 
 been given for slaughtering cattle, to be provided at tv^o 
 places on the road, which he named. T told him that I 
 accepted them as a mark of his bounty ; but that I did 
 not deserve such large presents, and again thanking him 
 for the good v^ords he had spoken, took my leave. His 
 last w^ords were'' Amba couthley" (I wish you a pleasant 
 journey). 
 
 Just as w^e were setting out, Dingarn sent a messenger 
 to say that when the next presents came he should like to 
 have a pair of boots like m.ine. Notwithstanding we 
 started so late, we were enabled to reach Ensuzana this 
 evening. 
 
 Tuesdaij, 12//;. — Set out at half-past eight — very exten- 
 sive views of the sea and surrounding mountains from the 
 heights above the village. Soon after twelve reached Inton- 
 tella, Indoona's name, Mangani. We had scarcely reached 
 this place, w^hen a messenger overtook us from the King, 
 with a basket upon his head, containing the printed-calico 
 cloak which had just been made for him, and a piece of blue 
 dungaree, which had actually been procured from the 
 Tugala while I v;as at Congella in order to line it. The 
 servant said that he had received orders to follow us with 
 all speed, as he wished my people to line the cloak before 
 we proceeded further ; he was also directed to order a 
 beast to be slaughtered for us at this place. Notwith- 
 standing the detention, I was not a little pleased to find 
 that my present had been so acceptable, and resolved, when 
 I had an opportunity, to procure a further supply of these 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 143 
 
 fashionable prints. The regiment stationed here is said 
 to be one thousand strong, and, from the size of the town, 
 I should not think the amount has been overstated. The 
 people here, as at Congella, were occupied in building 
 new houses further out, in order to enlarge the circum- 
 ference of their town, for the admission of more cattle, 
 which are said to have greatly increased in all parts of 
 the country. At this season, the harvest being all ga- 
 thered in, attention is generally paid to the repairing of 
 huts, and the improvement of their towns. This, I was 
 glad to find, is another exception to the odious system 
 of proscribing infants, which, much to the credit of Din- 
 garn, appears to have been greatly relaxed since the 
 commencement of his reign. During the rule of his 
 predecessor Charka, Nobamba alone was excepted ; at pre- 
 sent four or five other places have obtained this privilege, 
 viz. Congella, Imbelli-belli, Issiclebani, and Intoutella, 
 with probably some others, which Issitontana, my in- 
 formant, could not recollect. Received a visit from 
 Marwa, Dingarn's aunt, who resides here, and who after- 
 wards sent to thank me for having declined the offered 
 beast. As other cattle had been ordered for slaughtering 
 in the Clomanthleen district, which we expected to 
 reach in the course of to-morrow, and it would appear 
 too much like payment for stitching together her cloak, 
 I contented myself with a message of thanks, saying that 
 we had enough. Among the herds of this place Vvcre 
 several cattle which had been taken in war both from 
 Faku and Umzelekar. The latter were captured by an 
 
144 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 expedition sent out about this period last year ; the enemy- 
 were, as usual, taken by surprise, and in consequence fell 
 back, leaving their cattle, in order to concentrate them- 
 selves for their recovery. The Zoolus did not await their 
 advance, but retreated with their booty. From the occa- 
 sional notices of these border conflicts, which I have 
 been enabled to collect, it would appear that, notwith- 
 standing the boasting of the Zoolus, they are not likely to 
 make much impression when fairly opposed to the troops 
 of Umzelekaz. There is a natural politeness among the 
 higher orders of these people, surpassing even the cere- 
 monial compliments of a Spaniard : for instance, on 
 making Marwa a present of some beads, I gave her to 
 understand that they were not given in return for the pro- 
 visions with which she had supplied me, but, being the 
 King's aunt, I was desirous to make her a present. She 
 immediately replied, Yes, I know that the cattle, and 
 all the food that is here, is yours." It is true, Dingarn 
 had given orders I should have supplies by the way ; but 
 this by no means detracts from her politeness. 
 
 This was a most splendid moonlight evening. The 
 young men who had not been out to war, assembled near 
 the gate, and sang and danced till it was late — they are 
 all passionately fond of these exercises. The lips of many 
 of the bystanders, among whom were several old warriors, 
 were observed to move as they instinctively followed the 
 words of the song, and occasionally forgetting their dig- 
 nity — for they never mingle with the lads — they would go 
 through the accompaniments with their arms and feet. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 145 
 
 Wednesday i ISth. — The cloak having been finished, 
 and a messenger dispatched to Port Natal with the treaty, 
 we set out at two o'clock. Observed another military 
 town, called Toutana, situated on a hill on the right. 
 This also is one of Marwa's places, but smaller than Intou- 
 tella. Passed Muckachani at three, and at a quarter to 
 four crossed the Amatakoola, and entered the district of 
 Clomanthleen. At Neki, where we arrived at five, we 
 remained for the night. Here also we were shown several 
 head of cattle which had been captured from the Ama- 
 pondas. The town is built on the slope of a hill, with a 
 large euphorbia tree near the entrance, and contains 
 thirty-four houses. 
 
 Thursday, l^ih, — Set out at twenty minutes past seven, 
 and reached the Black Shields (Clomanthleen Neama) at 
 nine. Information was here received of the elopement of 
 the Incosa-case of the Injanduna. Wishing to obtain the 
 exact particulars, as it was generally believed that she 
 had taken the road to Port Natal, I walked over with my 
 interpreter and Mambayendi (who had been directed by 
 the King to accompany me to the Tugala) during the time 
 the oxen were resting. At this period the greater part of 
 the men belonging to this regiment were at their ama- 
 panthleen, or out-places (villages belonging to the prin- 
 cipal inhabitants of large towns). Having assembled the 
 remainder, I explained to them the purport of the treaty 
 which had just been concluded, and informed them of the 
 pardon which had in consequence been granted to all 
 previous deserters from their regiment now at Port Natal 
 
 1, 
 
146 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 as well as our determination to send all back, bound, to 
 Dingarn, who should desert to us in future ; adding, that 
 should it be ascertained that the Incosa-case had reached 
 the settlement, she would be treated in the same manner. 
 
 The appellation Incosa-case (literally female chief ) is 
 applied to all women of high rank, many of whom, from 
 the practice of polygamy, are to be met with in every 
 part of the country. These, as well as the immediate 
 relations of the King, are generally placed as pensioners, 
 one or two together, in the different military towns where 
 they preside, and are particularly charged with the dis- 
 tribution of provisions. It was one of these ladies who, 
 in the present instance, had disgraced herself, and had 
 in consequence fled from the penalty of the law, which 
 pronounces death. The names of the party, including 
 herself, were given at my request, and are as follows : — 
 
 Nonha, second Incosa-case : 
 
 Umboobo, man-servant : 
 
 Nongoobo, female servant, and her three children 
 (girls), viz. Mamisani, Nombabi, and Umpatagazi. 
 As, from the relations of these people, there was little 
 doubt but they had proceeded to Port Natal, and I felt 
 assured that if not instantly delivered up an infraction of 
 the treaty would ensue, I considered it my duty to 
 hasten my return with as little delay as possible. Ac- 
 cordingly, with a few necessary articles placed upon a 
 pack-ox which accompanied the waggon, I pushed on 
 with Umpondombeeni, and reached the Tugala at three. 
 Fearing detention in passing the rivers during the night, 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 147 
 
 I gave up this method, and having reduced my baggage 
 to a portable size, placed it on the head of my servant, 
 and at half-past seven continued my journey on horse- 
 back. At half-past ten we overtook the messengers 
 charged with the treaty, sleeping in a ruined hut, and 
 dividing the contents of my bundle between them, I took 
 them on with me. 
 
 Friday, 15^/2.— Soon after day-light, stopped an hour 
 and three-quarters to breakfast and rest the people ; but 
 finding they began to flag on reaching the Umtongata, at 
 ten o'clock 1 left them, and proceeded alone. Three- 
 quarters of an hour in the middle of the day was a suf- 
 ficient rest for my horse on occasions of this kind, and 
 at seven I reached my humble dwelling at Berea. My 
 only difficulty was to find the way when within about 
 a quarter of a mile of my hut. The lane in this 
 part was so narrow and the trees so thick, that, in conse- 
 quence of the darkness of the night, I wandered about 
 for a considerable time, unable to distinguish the path, 
 until dismounting and going back some distance, I at 
 length succeeded in tracing it with my feet among the 
 high grass. From Port Natal to the Tugala is seventy-five 
 miles ; and although in many parts the scenery is very 
 fine, still from the circumstance of its being uninhabited by 
 man, it is always a very dreary journey. The brightness 
 of the moon on the preceding night had enabled me to 
 discover many of the wild animals which roam about this 
 extensive district. Several herds of buffaloes were seen 
 grazing on each side of the path : at one time a panther 
 
 1. 2 
 
148 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 sprung from his lair in the high grass close to us, and 
 proceeding a little further, we observed a whole troop of 
 elephants quietly feeding at no great distance. 
 
 Sunday^ IKth, 
 
 " Occupy till I come." — (Luke, xix. 30.) 
 
 What an honour to be made 
 
 Stewards till our Lord shall come ! 
 How this thought should all pervade ! 
 
 Cause us oft to count the sum ! 
 
 Soon to reckon He will call 
 
 For every talent He has lent ; 
 We must give account of all — 
 
 How the day of grace was spent. 
 
 Let us, then, by love compelled, 
 
 Every tale of duty yield ; 
 Though the straw be oft withheld, 
 
 Diminish nought to glean the field. 
 
 'Twas not he who most possessed, 
 
 Be the talents ten or one ; 
 He alone at last was blessed. 
 
 Who his Lord's commands had done. 
 
 Let our love like Mary's glow. 
 
 Who weeping near the Saviour stood. 
 Till those gracious accents flow — 
 
 " You have done whatever you could." 
 
 Life is but a Hving death. 
 
 Till our hearts to God are given ; 
 Then with every fleeting breath. 
 
 We climb the bhssful path to heaven. 
 
 ,11 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 149 
 
 Faithful to the trust we hold, 
 
 Let us occupy with joy; 
 No talent in a napkin fold — 
 
 All for our Master's use employ. 
 
 And humbly own when all is done, 
 Unworthy servants we have proved : 
 
 'Twas grace alone the work begun. 
 And grace the stubborn will removed. 
 
 What sovereign goodness to reward 
 The very gifts Himself bestowed ! 
 
 To us the sweet " Well done " accord. 
 Though all from out His fulness flowed ! 
 
 Oh ! let us then with ardour press 
 To meet our Saviour in the skies ; 
 
 And work as though we did possess 
 The power which grace alone supplies. 
 
 English service twice in the hut, my interpreter not 
 having yet arrived. 
 
 Monday, ISth, — This morning information was brought 
 that the party I was in quest of had reached a village in 
 this neighbourhood late last night. Nonha and Umboobo 
 were soon after brought to Berea, and placed in custody 
 in one of the huts. 
 
 Hearing that Mankanjana (who had been demanded by 
 Dingarn) had effected his escape from Mr. CoUis, I rode 
 down with a party in the hope of discovering his retreat, 
 and securing him. 
 
 The opinion that he would endeavour to make his way 
 to the Amaponda country was so strong, that 1 thought 
 it advisable to proceed in that direction, and apprize the 
 
150 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 natives of the several villages through which he must pass, 
 in order that they might be prepared to seize him on his 
 arrival. 
 
 It was quite dark when we reached Mr. Collis's, and 
 while conversing on the subject, a panther seized a dog 
 close to the spot where we were standing, and car- 
 ried him off. Rode on about ten miles with Mr. Cane, 
 but, finding it impracticable, on account of the intricacy of 
 the path, to proceed further until daylight, slept in a hut 
 at Mr. Fynn's village. 
 
 Tuesday, l^tJi. — Soon after daylight we were again 
 mounted, and went on to a village belonging to Mr. Cane, 
 not far from the Umcamas, and about twenty-five miles 
 from Berea ; but no tidings of the fugitive could be ob- 
 tained. Soon after noon a messenger arrived with in- 
 formation that Mankanjana had been found and secured 
 in the very hut where he had previously been concealed • 
 It was late in the evening before I again reached home. 
 
 Wednesday, Wth. — About two o'clock this morning I 
 was called up — Mr. Collis and a party having arrived with 
 Mankanjana, who had actually escaped a second time, and 
 had only just been taken with great diflftculty by a party 
 of English and Hottentots, who had been in search of 
 him. 
 
 This evening performed the funeral service at the grave 
 of Thomas Innis, who expired this morning, in conse- 
 ([uence of a severe burn, his clothes having caught fire a 
 few days ago while sleeping in a hut. He had but re- 
 cently arrived from the colony, and, as I understood, had 
 
ZOOI.U COUNTRY. 
 
 151 
 
 served in one of the northern expeditions under Sir Ed- 
 ward Parry. 
 
 Thursday, 21*/.— As in all probability the prisoners 
 about to be delivered to Dingarn would be put to death, I 
 determined to accompany them, in the hope, through the 
 blessing of God upon my endeavours, to instruct them by the 
 way in the method of salvation through Jesus Christ, as also 
 to endeavour to obtain their pardon on reaching Congella. 
 Last night the driver of the waggon which was to accom- 
 pany us as far as the Tugala, shot a panther close to my hut. 
 They had spanned out in the road for the night, taking 
 the precaution to secure the dog underneath the waggon ; 
 notwithstanding which the ferocious animal sprung upon 
 him, and killed him. Aroused by the cry of the dog, 
 the Hottentot levelled his piece, and, being an excellent 
 shot, brought him down almost instantly ; he staggered 
 for a few yards, and then fell lifeless. Although rarely 
 seen by day, these animals are very numerous in this 
 neighbourhood. It was not many days since, when two 
 of them were observed seated on the roof of the church 
 now building, making a hearty meal on a large piece of 
 beef, which, by way of security, had been suspended from 
 one of the beams. Unfortunately no person had a gun 
 ready at the time. At half-past eleven set out for Con- 
 gella, the prisoners* following the waggon on foot, secured 
 in pairs, and attended by two of my servants and the 
 two messengers, whom I had detained for this purpose. 
 
 * Viz. Mankanjana, Nonha, Umboobo, ami Nongoubo ; the children 
 were not sent. 
 
152 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Halted at sunset, when I had a long conversation with 
 them in the tent. Poor creatures ! on the verge of eter- 
 nity, and yet ignorant of the immortality of the soul, 
 and unconscious of a future state of existence. Their 
 apprehensions of sin were nearly as dark, imagining that 
 there were but three kinds — adultery, witchcraft, and 
 speaking evil of the King. 
 
 Friday, 22nd,— Set out at a quarter-past nine ; rested 
 two hours and a half in the heat of the day ; and out- 
 spanned again at sunset. From the conversations which 
 I have had with the prisoners during the periods of halt- 
 ing, it appears that they have always had some indistinct 
 idea of a Supreme Being. Nonha's words, in reply to 
 some inquiries on this point, were these — "We always be- 
 lieved that there was an Incosi-pezula" (a gi'eat chief 
 above). " who, before there was a world, came down and 
 made it ; he made men ; and we knew also that there 
 were white men." To this they all assented, acknowledg- 
 ing that it was all they knew about God. They knew of no 
 tradition respecting a deluge, or of the world having ever 
 been destroyed. The transmigration of souls, they said, was 
 universally believed among them. The body they sup- 
 posed was annihilated by death ; but the breath or spirit 
 then passed into the body of some animal, generally a 
 snake, called issitata, which is harmless, though sometimes 
 into other animals, such as the buffalo or the hippopo- 
 tamus. They mentioned an instance when a buffalo thus 
 possessed had been driven by the influence of the spirit 
 to a place of slaughter, and an hippopotamus had been 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 153 
 
 impelled to enter a village. The true Scriptural account 
 of these important subjects had perplexed them much 
 yesterday, but this evening they said, for the first time, 
 that they comprehended what had been told them, which 
 was chiefly relating to the nature of sin, and the way of 
 pardon and acceptance through the sufferings and death 
 of Christ. May it please the Lord to open their hearts, 
 and to lead them into all truth. 
 
 Saturday^ ^Srd, — Set out a little before seven ; stopped 
 to breakfast at eleven ; and proceeded again at twenty mi- 
 nutes past twelve. In endeavouring to cross a gully, 
 where the ground was swampy, the waggon stuck fast, 
 one of the hind wheels sinking in the mud. Two ineffec- 
 tual attempts having been made to drag it out, I dis- 
 mounted ; and, throwing my bags across my horse's back, 
 proceeded on foot with the prisoners, &c. It was at a quarter 
 to five that we left the waggon, and, after walking about 
 fifteen miles, we reached Mr. Plankenberg's hut (a trading 
 station recently established on the Tugala) at nine. This 
 morning it was my intention to have started much earlier, 
 in order to have reached the White Shields (Clomanth- 
 leen) by sunset ; but unfortunately the people belonging 
 to the waggon overslept themselves. 
 
 Simday, ^^th, — Being desirous to commence the Zoolu 
 mission by public worship on this day, I crossed the river 
 soon after eight, and reached the Clomanthleen Inthlopi 
 (White Clomanthleen) at eleven. We travelled slowly on 
 account of the prisoners, the distance being not more than 
 nine miles. The principal part of the regiment were 
 absent, notwithstanding which the Incosa-ciise (Momahau), 
 
154 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 and about thirty-five people, including the prisoners, 
 assembled in front of Nongalaza's hut, when I addressed 
 them for about an hour on the leading truths of the Gospel, 
 concluding with prayer. All were very attentive, and 
 said at the conclusion, that they understood the words 
 that had been spoken. That it was literally the words 
 which they meant may be well imagined, and certainly 
 inferred, from the inquiry which was immediately after- 
 wards made by the principal man present, whether God's 
 house (alluding to his habitation in heaven) was as hand- 
 some as their Issigordlo. May it please the God of all 
 grace, who has so mercifully opened a way for the good 
 news of salvation by Jesus Christ to be proclaimed in this 
 land, to give abundant increase to his own word, that it 
 may accomplish that which he pleaseth, and prosper in 
 the thing whereunto he has sent it ; and may I, and all 
 who may hereafter labour in this vineyard, regard ourselves 
 but as worthless instruments in his hands, and look ever 
 and solely to Him for that heavenly strength and grace 
 which he has promised, and without which all our labour 
 will be in vain ! " Not unto us, O Lord ! not unto us, but 
 unto thy name be the glory for ever and ever. Amen." 
 
 Let the voice of joy arise, 
 
 Grateful praise our bosoms swell; 
 Hark I they echo from the skies 
 
 The triumphs of Emmanuel ! 
 
 " Every knee to him shall bow, 
 Every crown before him fall; 
 The nations that forget him now, 
 E're long upon his name shall call." 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 155 
 
 Not one tittle e'er shall fail 
 
 Of every promise He has made; 
 
 The prayer of faith shall still prevail, 
 
 Though sense may deem it long delayed. 
 
 May the rays of Gospel light, 
 Redd'ning now the eastern sky, 
 
 Chase away the mists of night — 
 Reveal a day of glory nigh. 
 
 May the word in weakness spoken 
 Bring conviction to each breast ; 
 
 May the hearts that grace has broken, 
 In Jesus find relief and rest ! 
 
 To us this grace was freely given-^ 
 
 Swift the tidings let us bear, 
 Emulate the saints in heaven, 
 
 Who ceaseless hymn His goodness there. 
 
 What are all our earthly schemes, 
 If they only centre here ? 
 
 Nothing but delusive dreams- 
 Phantoms that awhile appear 
 
 If our hearts indeed have tasted, 
 God is gracious — we shall feel ; 
 
 Life itself were worse than wasted, 
 Could we dare His truth conceal. 
 
 Heralds of redeeming grace. 
 
 To every clime His love we'll bear ; 
 
 His standard raise in every place — 
 To tribes unknown His name declare ! 
 
 Till earth shall echo back the sound 
 
 In one united song of praise ; 
 And love, and joy, and peace abound 
 
 An earnest of millennial days. 
 
156 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Hark, again I — celestial strains ! — 
 
 " Hallelujah ! it is done ! 
 Jesus our Redeemer reigns ! 
 
 His travail o'er — His victory won ! " 
 
 Monday, ^5th. — On reaching the Tugala, the prisoners, 
 according to agreement, were consigned to the charge of 
 Mambayendi ; but so apprehensive were they of the seve- 
 rity of their own countrymen, that yesterday morning they 
 actually refused to proceed until I assured them that 
 it was my intention to accompany them, and that I should 
 not lose sight of them until they reached Congella, and were 
 delivered over to the Indoonas. Last night a messenger 
 arrived from Umgiinanani, where Dingarn was then stay- 
 ing. He had been ordered to proceed to Port Natal to 
 inquire respecting the deserter, but on hearing at the 
 Black Clomanthleen, that I was here, he had come on. 
 The Incosa-case (Nomahau) is very friendly, doing all 
 she can to make me comfortable ; but I have been much 
 disappointed at the present deserted state of the town — 
 many of the people are with the King, but the greater 
 part at their out-places. The waggon with my baggage 
 arrived this afternoon; they had extricated themselves 
 from the dilemma in which we had left them soon after 
 our departure. 
 
 Tuesday, 26th. — Left some of my baggage in charge 
 of Nomahau, and soon after nine set out, accompanied by 
 Mambayendi and three additional baggage-bearers. The 
 footpath from this place to Congella passes through a 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 157 
 
 more populous district than the waggon route, and the 
 country is more level, and clothed with trees. This part 
 of the country abounds with wild guinea-fowl, several coveys 
 of which were seen ; as also bucks, and a few Kafir crane, a 
 beautiful bird, with a grey plumage and a handsome top- 
 knot ; the black feathers which cover the head and throat 
 are of a glossy jet black, and to the touch as soft as the 
 richest velvet. The wings are in general use among the 
 Amakosa to decorate their heads when going to war. On 
 our way we met the messengers returning, who had been 
 sent forw ard by Nomahau to announce my approach to the 
 King. They said that he had expressed himself as much 
 pleased, when informed that the deserters had been 
 secured, but could not yet believe that it was true, nor 
 should he, until he had seen them. He had yesterday 
 left Ungunanani on his return to Congella. 
 
 We reached the Injandiina at noon, and remained to 
 rest and breakfast two hours and a half. Had not this 
 place lain directly in the route, I w^ould gladly have avoided 
 it, in order to spare the feelings of Nonha. This morning 
 she had been the gazing-stock of all the villagers by the 
 way, who had run out to see the prisoners as they passed 
 — but here a more formal ordeal awaited her. Before 
 any provisions could be procured for them, Ugdcha (the 
 Incosa-case) came down to the gate near which she was 
 sitting with the other prisoners, and, surrounded by all the 
 people of the place, scolded them both roundly. This, 
 under other circumstances, would have been all highly 
 proper ; but as it was agreed by all that they w ould be 
 
158 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 put to death on their reaching Congella, I could not but 
 feel great pity for her situation. So much agitated was 
 her mind with the apprehension of the cruel death which 
 awaited her (they are always impaled, after being struck 
 on the head with the knobbed sticks), that she told me on 
 Sunday evening, while instructing the prisoners, that 
 before she crossed the Tugala she could attend, but that 
 now her mind was in too disturbed a state. 
 
 Proceeding from this place, the country is still fertile 
 and populous, w^ell watered by the Umsondusi and Evoota, 
 both of which streams we crossed, and soon after the 
 Amatakoola, beyond which are some fine trees. Among 
 these were several known by the colonists as the Kafir 
 Boom, but called by the natives Umseensi ; they were the 
 first I had seen in blossom, and certainly made a most 
 splendid appearance. It somewhat resembles the English 
 elder, but throws out short bossy thorns on every part of 
 the trunk and branches ; it grows to the height of twenty 
 or thirty feet, and sheds its leaves in winter ; but the 
 blossom generally remains in great beauty for a consi- 
 derable time afterwards, appearing at the ends of the 
 twigs like a shuttle-cock with crimson feathers. 
 
 At a little before sunset ascended a hill, and stopped at 
 Hengi, a village belonging to Mangani, the Indoona of 
 Intoutella. The sun declined in great beauty behind 
 a bold range of mountains, over which the summit of that 
 near to Congella was just visible. So little attention was 
 paid to the wants of the prisoners, that it became neces- 
 sary to insist on their being regularly supplied with pro- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 159 
 
 visions ; and here the unfeeling wretches, when urged on 
 their arrival to give them some Indian corn, replied, in 
 their presence, " What is the use of giving them food — 
 they are dead already." 
 
 Wednesday, ^Ifth, — Set out at eight — soon after began 
 to ascend. Stopped to breakfast at Indumani (one of the 
 King's villages). At the Injanduna none of the pri- 
 soners, excepting Mankanjana, would taste the amass 
 (curdled milk) that was offered them, alleging that, as 
 they were in disgrace, it was not proper for them to par- 
 take of it among their friends ; the two women here again 
 declined it, but Umboobo was less scrupulous, and drank 
 freely from the calabash that was set before them. Rested 
 here two hours, and proceeded again at a quarter to 
 twelve. Passed Inglalani, and rested three-quarters of an 
 hour at Sablongazi, another small village, situated on the 
 crest of a steep mountain. Some of the ascents and 
 descents were so steep, that I frequently found it neces- 
 sary to dismount. There are few trees in these moun- 
 tains, but they are all well clothed with grass, and the 
 parts that are cultivated near the villages produce excel- 
 lent Indian and Kafir corn. 
 
 We now struck into the path we had formerly travelled, 
 our present route having been more inland, and at half- 
 past four we reached Congella, where crowds of people 
 were peeping over the fence and filling the gateway, in 
 order to catch a glimpse of the prisoners as they passed. 
 Scarcely had we entered the town, when I received a 
 message from the King, desiring to see me ; and the pri- 
 
160 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 soners, now consigned to the charge of the Indoonas, were 
 taken into his presence at the same time ; being directed to 
 place themselves at a respectable distance, while he ap- 
 peared from within his fence overlooking the whole party. 
 He appeared in high glee. His women were all singing 
 around him ; and on my seating myself, he pointed to me 
 and said, that it was on my account this rejoicing was made. 
 I could have burst into tears — it was a most trying situation. 
 Dingarn himself was leading the tune; crouched beneath 
 him, in front of the fence, was one of his servants, per- 
 forming all the usual gesticulations of frantic joy ; while 
 the unfortunate prisoners, but a little distance on my 
 right, were destined to witness these unfeeling ebullitions 
 of delight, occasioned, as it was evident, by their ap- 
 pearance, bound, and within the reach of punishment. 
 Not satisfied with one song, several were added, which, 
 with the clapping of hands in chorus, must have been 
 audible at a considerable distance. I scarcely dared turn 
 to the right — the countenance of Nonha and her compa- 
 nions were truly distressing ! During the whole journey 
 of one hundred and twenty miles they had anticipated a 
 cruel death ; and now every instant they expected to be 
 hurried away to execution. The songs at length being 
 ended, and a large bowl of beer presented to me, Dingarn 
 came out with some dignity, habited in a new cloak of 
 many colours, and wearing across his forehead a band of 
 the pink ribbon I had formerly given him. By this time 
 the whole male population had assembled, and, seating 
 themselves around us in a half circle, when a formal treat 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 161 
 
 commenced, the King in person demanding of each of the 
 prisoners why they had left his country. The offences 
 were stated, and evidence given by many who were pre- 
 sent. Mankanjana was the first who was questioned, 
 and his replies were given in a sitting posture, Dingarn 
 standing the whole time ; but when it came to Nonha's 
 turn, both the women were desired to stand up, on which 
 Nongalaza, with great emphasis, exclaimed, " There is 
 the woman we used to call our mother ; she was placed 
 by the King to provide food for the warriors on their 
 return from battle ! '* Her case was then entered into mi- 
 nutely. As the sun had set during this long conversation, 
 Dingarn said that, if I chose, I could retire, and that he 
 would see me again in the morning. 
 
 Having ascertained that there was no intention to exe- 
 cute them this evening, I took my leave: the people, 
 however, remained a considerable time longer to regale 
 themselves on tough beef, which, in anticipation of my 
 arrival with the prisoners, had been cooked for distribu- 
 tion. As I rose to leave the assembly, Dingarn observed : 
 " Now we see that you belong to the Zoolus." I replied, "It 
 will always be my desire to prove myself a friend to the 
 Zoolus." A good supply of meat and fire-wood was soon 
 after sent to my hut, which, although removed from its 
 original position, was the same which I had formerly oc- 
 cupied. The transit I had hoped would have dislodged 
 the colony of rats, but I was soon convinced of their 
 predilection to their former haunts. 
 
 Thursday, 28//^. — Went up, by desire of the King, at 
 
 M 
 
162 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 ten — found him seated on the outside of the Issigordlo, 
 habited in the cloak which was completed at Intoutella, 
 and accompanied by five of his principal Indoonas, seated 
 near him on the ground. As it was my wish to make an 
 impression, in the hope of obtaining the release of the 
 prisoners, I appeared in full uniform. All were loud in 
 their congratulations, and thanked me much for having 
 brought back the deserters. I told them that I required 
 no thanks ; that I had only done what it was my duty to 
 do. Dingarn said, that now his people would love him ; 
 whereas before they had hated him, because he refused 
 to permit an army to go down to Port Natal : that for 
 two years the chiefs had been urging him to destroy all 
 the black people there, but that he had withheld his con- 
 sent. Nongalaza and the other chiefs assented, saying, 
 that for the last two years this had been their desire ; that 
 they should not have molested the white people, but that 
 they had requested the King to allow them to kill all the 
 blacks. I told Dingarn that we thanked him for his for- 
 bearance, as those who had fled from his country richly 
 deserved punishment ; and, turning to the Indoonas, added, 
 " Now you see how good the counsel was that the King gave 
 you." Dingarn observed, that now he was convinced that 
 the white people at Port Natal wished to do him good. 
 I told him that peaceable words were better than armies ; 
 by sending out warriors he could only obtain the bodies 
 of men, but by peaceable words he gained their hearts : 
 that now we were all united to • observe the treaty, and 
 that, as long as he adhered to his part of the agreement, 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 16.3 
 
 he might rely upon it we should to ours. As he appeared 
 in high good humour, I thought it a good opportunity 
 to introduce my suit in favour of the prisoners, and strove 
 hard to obtain an unconditional pardon. This, however, 
 I soon found was far too large a request, and indeed his 
 arguments to the contrary, founded on the usages of the 
 country, were too powerful to combat. I therefore con- 
 tented myself with obtaining his assurance that their 
 lives should be spared, which, indeed, was all that I had 
 expected to obtain. To this conclusion, as Dingarn in- 
 formed me, they had come last night ; and he also stated 
 that Mankanjana, had he not sent an insolent message to 
 him, and made so many efforts to escape, would have been 
 pardoned. They are all sentenced to be kept in confine- 
 ment, and I fear this will be for life. The business being 
 now over, the men were called together, and soon sur- 
 rounded us in a dense semicircle, sitting three-deep on 
 the ground. Among these were six men from a distant 
 tribe, who, until my first arrival here, had never before 
 seen a white person. Dingarn himself pointed them out 
 to me ; and observing that I took some interest in them, 
 ordered them to sit in a group before me. In order to try 
 their nerves, Dingarn, by way of sport, requested my 
 interpreter to bring his gun, which to their great surprise 
 was twice fired, the men instinctively placing their hands 
 to their ears on hearing the report. Some inquiries were 
 then made by Dingarn, who had approached me to exa- 
 mine my dress, as to the method of making cloth ; and, 
 on his again seating himself, the European mode of con- 
 
 M 2 
 
164 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 structing houses was discussed. He was greatly interested 
 in the descriptions of each, and expressed much astonish- 
 ment at the facts which I related of rooms being built in 
 our houses one over the other, thinking it impossible that 
 the floors should not break through with the weight. 
 
 The important topic of beads w^as then introduced ; and 
 on this subject he was particularly desirous of information. 
 
 Where do they come from? " " What are they made 
 of? " " How are they made ? " " Cannot we learn to make 
 them ?" — were a few of the questions which, to the best of 
 my ability, I endeavoured to answer satisfactorily ; but he 
 was not satisfied until I promised, should I live to see 
 England again, and return, that I would bring him some 
 of the material of which they are made. The people 
 were then desired to sing, which they continued to do 
 for some time ; and, although seated, performed the ma- 
 nual part in excellent time and much grace, Dingarn and 
 the Indoonas often accompanying them in the evolutions 
 of their hands. In order that the compliment might not 
 be mistaken, the King informed me that he had pur- 
 posely called the people together in order that I might 
 hear how they sang at Congella. Had it not been for a 
 powerful sun, and the incumbrance of a cloth uniform, I 
 could have enjoyed both the scene and the many animat- 
 ing songs which continued until noon ; but as, in addition 
 to these inconveniences, I had not yet breakfasted, I felt 
 somewhat relieved when this long conference was at length 
 broken up. During the intervals of the songs, six head 
 of cattle were speared for distribution among the people ; 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 165 
 
 some within a few yards of the spot where we were 
 seated. They all ran some little distance after receiving 
 the spear, which is not thrown, but thrust into the side 
 near the heart ; and, on their falling, parties were de- 
 spatched to make the necessary preparations for disposing 
 of the meat. On returning to my hut I wrote to Port 
 Natal, at the request of Dingarn, to inform the settlers 
 that he had demanded, under the stipulations of the treaty, 
 the children belonging to Nonha's party. As they had 
 been allowed by the Numzana, or head of the village, 
 where they had taken refuge, to make their escape, it had 
 been arranged, on my setting out for this place, that, in 
 the event of their being demanded, either themselves or 
 Umfazaguatu (the Numzana) should be given up. 
 
 Friday, 2Qth. — Last night I had a long conversation 
 with three of the Unguani people, respecting their country 
 and knowledge of a Supreme Being, &c. These were the 
 persons pointed out by Dingarn, as having never before 
 seen a white man. On being told yesterday that God had 
 spoken words to men for the regulation of their conduct 
 here, they had very anxiously inquired, What has he 
 said ?" They, as well as the prisoners, were accordingly 
 sent for this morning to attend the prayers in my hut, 
 when an exposition of the Ten Commandments was given. 
 On leaving I was surprised to hear from the prisoners, 
 that they had tasted nothing since the last food we had 
 given them on the road, which was about three o'clock 
 on Wednesday. I immediately desired Umpondombeeni 
 to boil some lupoko meal which I had by me ; but he was 
 
166 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 unable to borrow a vessel for the purpose, my own sauce- 
 pan being too small. It now struck me that there must 
 be some design in such unfeeling conduct ; and, sending 
 for Mambayendi, I informed him of what they had just 
 said, desiring him to acquaint the King, and to say, that 
 I felt convinced it could not be his intention to starve 
 them. He tvas also desired to inform him, that I had 
 continued to instruct them, but should not do so in future 
 without his permission, as it was only in the Clomanth- 
 leen that he had allowed me to teach. This I deemed 
 necessary, as he would not fail to hear every particular. 
 Mambayendi soon returned with an answer, which quite 
 weighed down my spirits. Dingarn's reply was, " You have 
 done your utmost in bringing them bound to me, and then 
 speaking for them ; but as they have committed great 
 offences you must not ask for them any more. Their honds 
 must Mil them ! " I was not again to teach them ; and 
 he had given orders that they should not be supplied with 
 food. Inhuman wretch! The death they had so much 
 dreaded would have been mercy compared with the tor- 
 ture of lingering out a few more days of painful exist- 
 ence, and at last falling the famished victims of hunger 
 and want. Top true, indeed, were the last words that fell 
 from them on leaving my hut. As it appeared by their 
 statement that Mankanjana alone had been informed that 
 he was not to be killed, I endeavoured to quell their fears, 
 by saying that the King had himself assured me that all 
 their lives should be spared ; on which Nonha, in a 
 mournful voice, replied, " They are killing us now." 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 167 
 
 Had another long conversation with Umkolwani, who 
 is an inferior chief among the Unguani, the substance of 
 which I shall now relate : — 
 
 They belong to a tribe called Unguani, situated, as far 
 as I could collect, to the N. N. E. of Unkunginglove, at 
 a distance of nine days' journey. On the fifth day from 
 Unkunginglove, they reach the river Impongolo, and four 
 days more bring them to Elangani, where their king, 
 Sobuza, resides. Nearer to the Umpongola is another 
 town, called Nobamba ; both are small compared to the 
 Zoolu towns ; are built in the same form, but without 
 fences; and contain the whole population of the tribe, 
 which is now greatly diminished. The male population 
 does not exceed a hundred ; but as each man has from five 
 to ten wives, the whole, including children, may be esti- 
 mated at about twelve hundred. They were formerly in- 
 dependent, but subjugated by Charka, who deprived them 
 of all their cattle : they have neither sheep nor goats, and, 
 as grain is but scantily cultivated, they are often neces- 
 sitated to subsist entirely on roots. The flats are covered 
 with very high grass, and these, as well as the moun- 
 tains, produce large timber. Wild animals abound, and, 
 besides those common in this part ^of the country, they 
 have the rhinoceros and tiger : they appeared to know 
 nothing either of the ostrich or cameleopard. The eyland 
 is the only large animal they hunt, being fearful to ap- 
 proach the elephant, although aware of the value of its 
 tusks. Alligators abound in the rivers, some of which 
 they describe as large, but all fordable at certain times. 
 
168 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 The Lesuta is the largest next to the Umpongola, which 
 divides them from the Zoolu country, and after that the 
 Motani : these are all much wider than the Tugala. They 
 have no canoes, and only first saw the sea when they 
 came into this neighbourhood. They seem to be an in- 
 sulated tribe, having no relation with any other people 
 than their conquerors. All speak the Zoolu language ; 
 and, until they perceived us conversing in English, said 
 that it was the first time they had heard a tongue differing 
 from their own. Indeed, Umkolwani was highly amused 
 at my communicating with him through an interpreter, 
 and shrewdly observed, " You speak to him, and then he 
 speaks to me and, on the reason being explained, snap- 
 ped his fingers * in evident surprise. In appearance and 
 dress, or rather undress^ they are similar to the Zoolus, 
 and as they now generally wear the ring on the head, 
 which has been adopted since they became tributary to 
 Charka, they are scarcely to be distinguished from them. 
 Their w^omen also shave their heads, but wear the small 
 tuft on the crown somewhat higher. The whole country 
 to the north and west they describe as an arid desert, 
 extending, especially to the northward, beyond their know- 
 ledge, and much broken with abrupt precipices. In the 
 northern desert, which is entirely sand, there is a large 
 river, to the banks of which they have been, but none 
 have ever crossed it, nor have they ever heard of any 
 
 * A Zoolu can scarcely speak without snapping his fingers at every 
 sentence; and when energetic, a double snap is often made, and that 
 between every four or five words. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 169 
 
 people living beyond them either north or west. On the 
 east there is a tribe of Zoolus called Nobombas, from 
 whom they obtain iron for heading their spears and 
 assegais : they have heard of Sofala, but have never been 
 there, or seen any of the people. Their houses are of a 
 similar construction with these, but formed chiefly of 
 mats and reeds. Their king, Sobuza, the same whom 
 Charka subdued, has still the power of life and death. 
 Malefactors, when capitally punished, are struck on the 
 head with knobbed sticks, as is the practice here, but 
 they are never impaled ; with the exception of these, their 
 dead are always interred, being first bound up in their 
 clothes and mats. They describe the hot winds as some- 
 times so oppressive as to oblige them to leave their houses, 
 and ascend the very tops of the mountains in order to 
 obtain a gasp of air. The climate is so exceedingly un- 
 healthy, and that at all times of the year, that Umkol- 
 wani said he expected to find many ill on his return, al- 
 though it was winter ; that season, if any, being the most 
 sickly. Rain is unknown, but the nightly dews are heavy. 
 The prevailing sickness is of two kinds — one, an affection 
 of the throat and lungs, from which they often recover ; 
 but the other is a seizure so sudden and fatal, that fre- 
 quently in a few minutes, and generally in a quarter of 
 an hour, from the first attack, life is extinct. On these 
 occasions they complain of pains in the loins, back, and 
 front of the head ; and, after death, vomit a black liquid 
 from the mouth. They have no knowledge of medicine, 
 and invariably leave the sick to languish without attempt- 
 
170 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 ing any remedy. A removal from this insalubrious cli- 
 mate frequently restores them when suffering from the first- 
 named disorder; and Umkolwani himself declared, that 
 on quitting his country the complaint in his chest had 
 immediately left him. In common with the Amakosa, 
 Zoolus, &c. they observe the festival of the First Fruits. 
 Circumcision is still practised among them, notwithstand- 
 ing the desuetude into which it has here gone since the 
 reign of Charka. Although they had heard of white 
 people, we are the first whom they had ever seen. They 
 all acknowledged that when they first saw us they mistook 
 us for wild beasts ; and one of them actually ran from my 
 horse, who was quietly feeding near the town, taking him 
 also for some ferocious animal. On hearing the issibum 
 (gim) go off yesterday, they said they thought that the hea- 
 vens were opening, and began to be alarmed. The effect 
 of some lucifer matches now exhibited, surprised them 
 greatly. And they informed me, that when they returned 
 to their own people, they should tell them that they had 
 seen white men, and that they had the fire." On the 
 subject of religion they were in total darkness ; every 
 tradition had worn out ; and they presented the awful 
 spectacle of immortal beings without the knowledge or 
 acknowledgment of a Creator. Umkolwani confessed that, 
 while on his long journeys, he had often wondered how 
 things came, but could never find out ; and had always 
 supposed that they came by chance. When the body 
 died, they conceived that it perished ; but the soul, after 
 it was in the ground, entered the body of a snake. Of a 
 
200LU COUNTRY. 
 
 171 
 
 day of future retribution they had not the slightest idea, 
 nor did they know any thing of an evil spirit. What a 
 blank is the life of man, without a knowledge of God ! 
 and how pitiable and cheerless his condition, until the 
 Sun of Righteousness arises within to raise his affections 
 to things above, and shed the love of God abroad in his 
 heart ! I was in great hopes that one of these interest- 
 ing people would have remained with me, with the inten- 
 tion of instructing him ; and, by the blessing of God, 
 preparing him to bear the glad tidings of salvation to his 
 benighted countrymen ; but, notwithstanding the sickness 
 which they had all felt, and again apprehended, the charms 
 of home and a land of nativity were too powerful allure- 
 ments : should missionaries ever be sent to that country, 
 this method, on account of its baneful climate, will per- 
 haps be the most judicious. The following are the names 
 of the three men whom I endeavoured to instruct, — 
 
 Umkolwani (Chief), 
 
 Makatakata, 
 
 Unganassi. 
 
 The two lads named Umthlathla and Cussesendiina were 
 absent cutting wood. 
 
 This evening the principal Indoonas assembled in my 
 hut to inform me that the King had made me a present 
 of twelve head of oxen ; and that he wished them to be 
 considered as a token of his gratitude, for having con- 
 cluded the treaty with him ; that as such a " fast word " 
 had passed between him and me, it was right that there 
 should be something to shew, as a proof that it had been 
 
17^ 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 accepted on both sides. I told them that, as a pledge of 
 the King's favour, I would certainly accept them ; but that 
 I required no presents ; all I wished for was friendship. 
 They replied, that if I did not accept them there would 
 be nothing to show : that the King had desired them to 
 say, that on this day he received me into his country, and 
 that these oxen would be a token to all of what he had 
 done ; that he was not yet tired, but should do more 
 hereafter. I assured them that my desire to befriend the 
 King would not be increased by any presents he could 
 make ; that now he knew me, and would always find me 
 the same — ever desirous to do him and his people service. 
 They said it was not the King only who thanked me this 
 day ; it was the whole Zoolu nation. Having inspected 
 the herd which were driven to a spot near my hut, the 
 Indoonas returned according to custom to thank the King 
 in my name. This present was in addition to a cow sent 
 for slaughtering this afternoon ; but I could enjoy nothing ; 
 the very sight of plenty filled my mind with the horrid 
 spectacle of suffering, which was about to be exhibited in 
 a hut not far removed from my own. 
 
 Saturday, 30th, — Understood that a bowl of beer had 
 been given to the prisoners yesterday by order of the 
 King ; my servants likewise contrived to give them the 
 liver of the cow. This apparent consideration on the part 
 of Dingarn I consider only as an aggravation to their 
 sufferings, like the brief respite which the tiger gives to 
 his prey, and was probably intended as a blind, merely to 
 sustain their lives until our departure. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. , 173 
 
 Early this morning Mambayendi brought a message from 
 the King, expressing his wish, if it were not inconvenient, 
 that I would return to Port Natal, as he was anxious to 
 hear tidings of some recent deserters. On this, I sent to 
 inform him that it had been my intention to have apprised 
 him this day of my proposed return on Monday ; but as 
 he was anxious for me to proceed, should the weather 
 clear up (there had been much rain during the night), I 
 would set out this forenoon, although we should not 
 travel to-morrow, as it was our holy day. On taking- 
 leave of Dingarn, I took an opportunity to thank him 
 personally for the oxen, saying, that when I looked upon 
 them 1 should think of the agreement existing between 
 him and the white people at Port Natal. He said, that 
 on my next visit he should select some milch cattle for 
 me. I told him that I did not desire presents. He 
 replied, that he gave them to me in order to show that 
 his heart was towards me ; on w^hich I assured him that 
 my heart was also towards him, and that he would 
 always find me desirous to do him service. I then took his 
 measure with a piece of tape for a pair of boots, which on 
 my last visit he had requested me to procure for him. 
 In order that I might obtain an interview with the pri- 
 soners before leaving, I had purposely kept the key of 
 the hand-cuffs, and now informed Dingarn that I must 
 take them back, as they might be required for other 
 deserters, and, moreover, were preferable to their method 
 of securing with ropes, which often caused great pain in 
 the arms. He laughed at this refinement of humanity. 
 
174 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 and said that I might take them off. The unfortunate 
 prisoners were brought out in front of their hut for the 
 purpose, and numbers of people soon collected from 
 curiosity to see them. They were evidently in a state of 
 alarm, supposing that they could only be loosed for the 
 purpose of immediate execution, but the object being 
 explained, they became calm, and soon after returned to 
 their place of confinement. Calling Mambayendi into 
 my hut, I desired him to tell me candidly what were the 
 King's intentions respecting them, saying, that as I had 
 brought them here, it was but just that I should be 
 informed of their probable fate. He said that I already 
 knew the King's intentions — that he had given orders 
 that no person was to supply them with food, which 
 when he thought proper he should send. It appears 
 to me that the beer sent yesterday was merely on ac- 
 count of my remonstrance, and that on our departure 
 they will be left to starve. On leaving the town I saw 
 them again the last thing, recommending them to think 
 much of what had been said to them, and to pray to God 
 through Jesus Christ, as He was able to save their souls, 
 and do them good in another world : they all looked most 
 piteously, thanked me, and wished me a pleasant journey. 
 So painful a duty I hope never again to be called to 
 perform ; and sincerely do I pray that their hearts may 
 be opened by Divine grace, to seek the things that belong 
 to their peace before they are called into eternity. 
 
 Set out on our return, accompanied by Mambayendi 
 and two herdsmen, driving the oxen before us, at half-past 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 175 
 
 eleven. Our appearance in any other country would have 
 been somewhat ludicrous. But two legs were now 
 remaining of the cow which had been killed yesterday 
 afternoon, and these precious relics were willingly carried 
 by some of the baggage-bearers — not a scrap would they 
 leave behind ; rather than relinquish a particle, one of 
 them actually strung a large piece of raw meat round the 
 back of his neck, leaving it to hang down between his 
 shoulders. So many beasts have been slaughtered for me 
 during these journeys, that my servants have been enabled 
 to obtain their favourite ornament, a part of the gall- 
 bladder, stuffed with fat, and formed into a large ring, 
 with which they encircle the arm. Sometimes a ring of 
 fat is worn round the head like a bandage, just above the 
 eyebrows ; in fact, fat of all kinds is their delight — they 
 will eat it au naturel, and consider that individual as 
 wealthy who can afford to appropriate a sufficient quantity 
 to decorate his person besides. One of the men went off 
 with the tail of the cow dangling from his arm — whether 
 by the way of ornament or not I did not inquire. Ob- 
 serving how soon the meat had been demolished, I 
 inquired of the people how many of them an ox would 
 suffice. They said that five men would finish the whole 
 beast in the course of a day and a half; and this I fully 
 believe, from the specimen they have already given of 
 their carnivorous powers. On crossing a mountain, after 
 passing Ebonquani (the first village on leaving Congella), 
 we passed through an immense flight of locusts, more 
 numerous than any I have yet seen either in this country 
 
176 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 or in Kafir-land ; they were feeding upon the grass until 
 we disturbed them, and then rose in millions ; many flew 
 into my face, and I caught several in my hand as I rode 
 along. At a quarter to six we reached Hengi, and 
 remained for the night. My former hut was again pre- 
 pared for me. 
 
 Sunday^ ^\st, 
 
 " Thou wilt keep him in perfect peace whose mind is stayed on Thee, 
 because he trusteth in Thee." — (Isaiah xxvi. 3.) 
 
 How pure the peace that grace bestows ! 
 
 The still small voice of love how sweet ! 
 How calm the soul that can repose 
 
 Its deepest care at Jesus' feet ! 
 
 Though like the Prophet 'leaguered round, 
 
 Though earth and hell their power should boast. 
 
 Faith looks beyond this narrow bound, 
 And sees afar a mightier host ! 
 
 There 's not a pang that flesh can feel. 
 
 Nor deeper grief our bosoms know, 
 But sovereign grace alike can heal, 
 
 And pour the balm to sooth our woe ! 
 
 It cheers the pining captive's cell — 
 
 He marks his chain — and looks above ! 
 His soul unfettered loves to dwell 
 
 On those bright realms of joy and love ! 
 
 It lights the languid eye in death. 
 
 Bids Jordan's billows stand on high ; 
 It sanctifies our latest breath. 
 
 And makes it rapture e'en to die I 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 177 
 
 How rich the promise — Come and buy," 
 
 With nought that ye can e'er possess ; 
 The riches that are stored on high 
 
 Are free to all their want confess ! 
 
 Dear Lord I thy purchased blessings shower, 
 
 My helpless soul still hangs on Thee ; 
 In weakness now make known thy power, 
 
 Atoning blood alone my plea. 
 
 May heavenly love my bosom swell, 
 
 May every selfish feeling die ; 
 So shall my soul be meet to dwell 
 
 With Thee in realms of bliss on high. 
 
 Monday, June 1st. — We were so near to the Clo- 
 manthleen district, that I pushed on this morning, and in 
 an hour and a half reached Nodunga, the first village 
 after crossing the Amatakoola, where we arrived at nine 
 o'clock. My object in making this journey w^as in order 
 to have an opportunity of speaking to the people. Having 
 sent round to some other smaller places in the neighbour- 
 hood, about one hundred people assembled before my hut, 
 when I addressed them for about an hour. 
 
 There is much encouragement in teaching these people : 
 they have no caste to break through — no idols to throw 
 down — they readily acknowledge their ignorance, and seem 
 desirous for instruction. I commenced by inquiring 
 who among them could tell me by whom the sun, the 
 moon, the mountains, and the rivers were made ? All 
 agreed that they were created by some power above. I 
 asked what they called that power? Pointing upwards, 
 
178 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 one of them said it was the Incosi pezuhi " (Great 
 Chief above). Did they know any thing of this Great 
 Chief? No," they replied ; now we are come to hear 
 about Him^^ — it is you who must tell us." On hearing 
 these simple expressions of desire to be instructed, the 
 reply of Cornelius to Peter (Acts x. 33) came forcibly to 
 my mind — " Now therefore we are all here present before 
 God to hear all things that are commanded thee of God." 
 May a like blessing attend the ministry which I trust 
 they will soon have among them. 
 
 We seem to have arrived here at a period when the 
 traditionary knowledge of a Supreme Being is rapidly 
 passing into oblivion. The following brief account is all 
 that I have ever been able to collect on this subject : — 
 It is agreed among the Zooius, that their forefathers 
 believed in the existence of an overruling spirit, whom they 
 called Villenangi (literally the First Appearer), and who 
 soon after created another heavenly being of great power, 
 called Koolukoolwani, w^ho once visited this earth, in order 
 to publish the news (as they express it), as also to sepa- 
 rate the sexes and colours among mankind. During the 
 period he was below, two messages were sent to him from 
 Villenangi, the first conveyed by a camelion, announcing 
 that men were not to die ; the second, by a lizard, with a 
 contrary decision. The lizard, having outrun the slow- 
 paced camelion, arrived first, and delivered his message 
 before the latter made his appearance. 
 
 To this want of promptness they attribute our present 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 179 
 
 condition as mortal beings, heaping all the odium of death 
 upon the sluggish camelion. There are still many legends 
 respecting Villenangi, but none of which my informant 
 could remember, excepting that he enjoined that lamenta- 
 tions should be made over the dead. It is said, that 
 many years ago, though not within the memory of the 
 oldest person now living, sacrifices of cattle were offered 
 to Villenangi. The generality of the people are ignorant 
 even of this scanty tradition ; but since their recent inter- 
 course with Europeans, the vague idea of a Supreme Being 
 has again become general. At present, the reigning 
 king absorbs all their praises, and he is, in fact, their only 
 idol. — In the foregoing account there is evidently an indis- 
 tinct and confused idea of the incarnation of our Blessed 
 Lord, and of the entrance of sin into the world, Satan 
 employing the body of a reptile to practise his first deceit 
 upon mankind. What an awful condition for an immortal 
 being ! Man, when once departed from his God, goes 
 out, like Nebuchadnezzar in his banishment, debased in 
 his reasoning powers, and scarcely elevated above the 
 beasts which perish. O that this benighted people 
 may, like the stump which he saw in his night dream, 
 put forth branches, and bud, and bear fruit, and flourish ; 
 and thus matured and nourished by the dews of heavenly 
 grace, become a blessing in the earth, a shelter and a pro- 
 tection to all the surrounding nations ! Breathe, Lord 
 upon these dry bones, and they shall live ! 
 
 Rode out before breakfast to select a spot for the Mis- 
 
 N 2 
 
180 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 sionary Establishment, having on my way to Congella 
 considered this neighbourhood as by far the most eligible 
 of any part of the Clomanthleen district, being in the 
 immediate vicinity of two large military towns, and sur- 
 rounded by several villages ; fixed upon a hill of mode- 
 rate height, skirted by the Umsondusi, a clear mountain 
 stream, which almost encircles it. On my return to 
 Nodunga, I agreed with Timoula, the Numzana, who had 
 been particularly attentive, to build three huts on the 
 spot selected, during my absence, with the intention of 
 shortly returning to occupy them. As it was not much 
 out of the route to the Injanduna, he accompanied me 
 back to the spot, in order to receive the necessary direc- 
 tions ; after which, we proceeded to Mungnena's village, 
 near the Tugala, where we arrived at four, and remained 
 for the night. The new Missionary Station I have named 
 Culoola — which, in the Zoolu language, signifies, to loose or 
 set free — trusting that, by the blessing of God, it may 
 eventually be the means of loosing many souls from the 
 captivity of Satan, and bringing them out of darkness into 
 marvellous light. 
 
 Tuesday^ ^nd, — Proceeded at a quarter past eight; 
 crossed the Tugala to breakfast at Mr. Plankenberg's ; 
 and at half-past ten resumed my journey. Reached a 
 ruined hut on the right bank of the Mavootie at four, 
 where I rested until sunset, and then went on until 
 the moon went down. Again in the wilderness, I endea- 
 voured to occupy the time by writing the following lines 
 on horseback : — 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 181 
 
 THE WILDERNESS. 
 
 What though I wend my lonely way 
 Far from the social haunts of men ; 
 And every object I survey 
 In solemn stillness seems to say, 
 
 " Approach not our domain 
 E'en in the wilderness I love to trace 
 The footsteps of a God of grace. 
 
 There's not a plant that decks the ground 
 But speaks its great Creator's praise ; 
 
 The smallest insect fluttering round, 
 
 The savage beasts that here abound. 
 Unite to witness Wisdom's ways : 
 
 In Nature's book 'tis sweet to trace 
 The tokens of a God of grace. 
 
 The wildest desert owns His hand, 
 
 The rudest mountain marks His power ; 
 Each smiles or frowns at His command. 
 And all in wisdom He has planned. 
 
 He paints the cup of every flower — 
 In every object we may trace 
 The workings of a God of grace. 
 
 There are no deserts here below — 
 
 All nature teems with life and love ; 
 The loneliest spot that e'er we know 
 Enough of Mercy's way can show. 
 
 To raise our grovelling thoughts above, 
 If still our hearts delight to trace 
 The goodness of a God of grace. 
 
182 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 'Tis here — within our bosom lies 
 
 The arid soil that yields no fruit ; 
 That howling- desert oft defies 
 The softening dews that heaven supplies; 
 
 Fertile in every baneful root, 
 Receives — but. thankless, scorns to trace — 
 The bounties of a God of grace. 
 
 But ah ! when once those rocks are rent. 
 
 Those bitter, poisonous waters healed. 
 Each native flower then yields its scent, 
 An Eden blooms where dragons went, 
 
 And golden harvests crown the field. 
 'Tis in the heart renewed we trace 
 The trophies of a God of grace. 
 
 And art Thou then, my God, so near ? 
 
 Does every creature point to Thee ? 
 Then let me oft thy footsteps hear 
 This toilsome pilgrimage to cheer. 
 
 In every object that I see, 
 Make it my chiefest joy to trace 
 The riches of Thy boundless grace ! 
 
 Wednesday, Srd—Aho\xi three miles from the Umton- 
 gata, having no tent, we made our bivouac at half-past 
 eleven near some bushes, but with no other shelter than 
 the starry heavens. I found it necessary frequently to 
 arouse the people, in order to prevent the fire from going 
 out. Quitted the walking party at eight this morning, 
 and rode on alone to Berea, where I arrived at six 
 o'clock. 
 
 It appears that the apprehension of the remainder of 
 Nonha's party had occasioned much trouble, the whole of 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 183 
 
 the whites and about sixty of the natives having been 
 obliged to proceed in a body to enforce the requisition. 
 The people of the village where they had been staying 
 rescued them from two Englishmen and a Hottentot, who 
 had taken them in their absence : they waylaid them^, and 
 issuing from the woods as they passed, contrived while in 
 conversation, but without using force, to effect their purpose. 
 On this the larger party before mentioned proceeded to 
 the spot, but the natives, alarmed at their numbers, fled to 
 a neighbouring hill. Thus posted, Mr. Cane, with two 
 natives, volunteered to communicate with them. He went 
 up in a firm manner and remonstrated with them, at 
 the same time assuring them that unless the persons 
 in question were delivered up by sunset he would 
 instantly shoot the Numzana to whom he addressed 
 himself. Happily no further effort was made, and the 
 three girls were secured. But here another heart-rending 
 scene took place. Umfazaguatu (the Numzana) was 
 related to the children, and evinced feelings of which 
 humanity might boast. Suddenly casting away his 
 assegais, he threw himself upon the ground in a suppli- 
 cating posture, and only implored that he might be bound 
 and sent to Dingarn in lieu of the prisoners. This of 
 course could not be permitted, though all must doubtless 
 have felt the painful necessity of acting with so much 
 apparent rigour. On my arrival I found them in one of 
 my huts, in charge of two men who had been sent for the 
 purpose from Congella. On their leaving this morning I 
 
184. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 sent on my own responsibility the following message to 
 Dingarn, well knowing that it would express the sentiments 
 of every European at Port Natal :— " If deserters must 
 be killed, let them be killed at once ; but if they are to be 
 starved to death, we are resolved that not another indi- 
 vidual shall be sent back." The men promised to be 
 kind to the prisoners by the way, and on no account to 
 mention the fate which would probably await them on 
 their arrival. My heart sickens at the thought of such 
 barbarities — still it is a duty we owe to the two thousand 
 natives now residing here, and who, together with our- 
 selves, would all some night have probably been immolated 
 but for the security of the present treaty. 
 
 SUNSET AT BEREA. 
 
 How glorious is that golden hue, 
 
 What gorgeous streams of light I 
 What varied tints from azure blue 
 
 To deepest crimson meet my sight; 
 At evening's close I love to gaze, 
 And mark the sun's declining rays. 
 
 It is a sight more felt than seen — 
 
 Our mortal part in mute amaze 
 Stands rapt in wonder — 'tis within 
 
 We feel the power of that full blaze ; 
 Th' untrammelled spirit spreads her wings, 
 And from that sight fresh rapture brings. 
 
 She marks the last pale flickering ray, 
 
 That faintly gilds the mountain's crest, 
 And as it gently fades away, 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 185 
 
 And darkness veils the glowing west 
 A cheering emblem she descries, 
 It tells her how the Christian dies. 
 
 What though our eyes no more behold 
 The light and joy his presence gave. 
 
 The meed of bliss is yet untold — 
 Awaits the saints beyond the grave, 
 
 Where in those realms of pure delight, 
 
 One blissful day excludes the night. 
 
 Calm and serene his soul departs. 
 
 And leaves a hallowed glow behind. 
 That whispers to our aching hearts. 
 
 Weep not as those who yet are blind 
 To that sure hope which faith descries, 
 Their heritage beyond the skies. 
 
 If heaven resounds with songs of praise, ^ 
 
 When first the sinner, touched by grace, 
 Abandons all his former ways. 
 
 And humbly seeks his Saviour's face, 
 What shouts of triumph must begin 
 When ransomed souls are gathered in ! 
 
 Then while our burden still we bear, 
 
 Forward let us press to gain 
 The crown which those in glory wear. 
 
 Purchased by Him who once was slain, 
 The Lord our righteousness and peace. 
 Whose dying love will never cease. 
 
 Saturday^ ISth, — Six men of the Inthlangwain Tribe 
 arrived, from whom I obtained a confirmation of a very 
 distressing fact — viz., a whole nation, from the pressure of 
 extreme want, being first reduced to the dreadful necessity of 
 subsisting upon their own children, and afterwards evincing 
 so decided a predilection for human flesh as still to per- 
 
186 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 petuate the horrid practice of cannibalism; not, however, to 
 the extermination of their own tribe, but feasting upon the 
 bodies of captives taken in war. These people, according 
 to their report, inhabit a country four days north of the 
 Tugala, and two north-west of Unkunginglove. The 
 name of the tribe is Immithlanga, and that of their 
 chief, Upalluti. They are independent of the Zoolus, 
 speak a dialect of the Abasootu, and are said to be 
 generally at war with the Amathlubi, a people bordering 
 them on the north, under a chief named Amahuangwa. 
 Two of the men with whom I conversed, Sinoieza and 
 Pakankoothla, had been eye-witnesses to the barbarities 
 above stated, having seen them cooking and feasting on 
 the flesh of several human bodies. Sinoieza himself 
 appears to have had a very narrow escape. His own 
 father was speared and eaten by them, and it was only 
 by running away and concealing himself that he avoided 
 a similar fate ! It was in consequence of an attack from 
 the Amatembu, some years ago, that the Immithlanga 
 were first reduced to the horrid alternative of murdering 
 their own children for support. 
 
 Tuesday, 2Srd~La8t night, by an arrival from the 
 Tugala, I learned the fate of the unfortunate prisoners 
 whom we left at Congella. They were not starved, but all 
 put to death on the King's leaving for Unkunginglove 
 shortly after my departure. It is said that Umthlella took 
 this sanguinary measure upon himself, contrary to the wish 
 of both Dingarn and Tambooza ; but the fact is, these 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 187 
 
 three great personages have a most convenient method of 
 placing upon each other the responsibility they would 
 evade, and the very next moment indemnifying the 
 perpetrator of the act they denounced. 
 
 This afternoon a very characteristic meeting was held 
 in one of Mr. Berkin's huts, for the purpose of selecting 
 the site for a town. On my arrival I found the hut filled 
 M^ith the individuals expressly convened for this purpose. 
 Almost total silence was observed— the subject was not 
 even hinted at, nor had any chairman or leading person 
 been appointed to introduce the business. At length a 
 voice cried out, " Now let's go and settle the bounds," on 
 which I risked a question, hoping it might elicit a pro- 
 gramme of the contemplated proceedings. *' Are all present 
 agreed as to the expediency of building a town ? " To 
 which it was replied, that their presence on this occasion 
 was a proof that they were unanimous on this point. 
 Thus began and ended this important conference, and 
 off they all scampered in a posse to inspect the ground, 
 some walking, others seated on the floor of a waggon 
 without either tilt or sides, which was drawn at a stately 
 pace by ten oxen. Short pipes, an indispensable accom- 
 paniment, were in full action on all sides. Being the 
 winter season, it was a sort of reunion of hunters, who, 
 tired of chasing sea-cow * and buffalo, were now sighing 
 for town-houses and domestic cheer. The appearance 
 of any one of these forest-rangers would have gained the 
 
 * Hippopotami, (Dutch and Colonial term). 
 
188 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 medal for any artist who could have transfixed his tout 
 ensemble upon canvas. At length a pause was made, 
 — This '11 do," cried one ; — " That 's the spot," exclaimed 
 another. After some minutes of such-like random 
 conversation, the whole party were compactly collected, 
 and the business at length entered upon, and conducted 
 in a rational manner, every proposition being subjected 
 to the votes of those who were present, and carried or 
 negatived accordingly. It was in this impromptu manner 
 that the town of D'Urban was named — its situation fixed 
 — the township and church lands appropriated — and, in 
 short, as much real business gone through as would have 
 required at least a fortnight's hard writing and debating 
 in any other quarter of the globe *. 
 
 Fridaij^ ^Qth. — Hearing of the death of a young wo- 
 man in a neighbouring village, I went to the spot with 
 the hope of persuading them to discontinue the revolting 
 custom of casting the bodies of deceased persons into the 
 woods, to be devoured by wild animals. They listened 
 very attentively to all my arguments ; and, at the con- 
 clusion, thanked me for the words I had spoken, and 
 agreed in future to inter their dead. In the present in- 
 stance, they said, they were afraid of infection, as the 
 woman had died after a lingering disease. It appeared 
 that, as her end approached, she had been carried out into 
 the woods ; but they assured me that she was not left 
 until life was extinct. 
 
 * See documents at the end of the journal. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 189 
 
 Tuesday, 30th. — Early this morning I was awoke by 
 cries of lamentation from the people of a village, at the 
 foot of the hill, nearly two miles distant ; and about ten 
 o'clock two messengers arrived to inform me of the sudden 
 death of a child, desiring also to know whether I wished 
 it to be buried. On Sunday last T had taken occasion to 
 introduce the subject at the conclusion of my address to 
 the natives ; and it was doubtless in consequence that the 
 present message had been sent. Accompanied by my in- 
 terpreter I soon followed them to the village, when I found 
 that early this morning Kolelwa, the Numzana, had lost 
 his only child. He was seated in a solitary place by him- 
 self, at the back of his own hut, while the rest of the 
 people, apparently in much distress, were sitting in silence 
 in the cattle-fold. On my request to know whether they 
 were willing to inter the body, a man came forward and 
 communicated with the afflicted father in a low voice, who 
 also in an under tone signified his assent. In the same 
 manner his wishes were ascertained respecting the spot, 
 as I thought it advisable, considering their prejudices, to 
 refer it to his option, whether it should be in the 
 immediate neighbourhood of the village, or on an allot- 
 ment of ground which should be generally appropri- 
 ated for the purpose. Having decided on the former, I 
 recommended that the necessary preparations should be 
 made ; but here there was considerable difficulty. On 
 these occasions it is customary to administer medicine to 
 all excepting the family of the deceased, in order, as they 
 
190 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 imagine, to preserve themselves from contagion ; conse- 
 quently, all the men of the place had gone in quest of 
 their doctor, with the exception of two ; but as each of 
 their wives had infants, they excused themselves by say- 
 ing they were apprehensive of communicating the disorder 
 to their own children. My object was, if possible, to spare 
 the father from so painful a duty ; but seeing the neces- 
 sity, unsolicited he took up his hoe, and accompanied by 
 two of his wives and these two men, who seemed willing 
 to render all the assistance their scruples would allow, 
 proceeded before us to the wood. After threading an 
 intricate part, and winding about for some little distance, 
 they stopped. Inquiring if that was the spot they had 
 chosen, Kolehva replied, " You must show us." On being 
 again told that it w^as left entirely for his decision, they 
 proceeded a few paces further, and then commenced one 
 of the most distressing scenes I ever witnessed. A father 
 with his own hand opening the ground with his hoe, and 
 scooping out a grave for his own child, assisted only by 
 one of his wives — while the bereaved mother, in the bitter- 
 ness of her grief, seated under some bushes, like another 
 Hagar, "watched every movement, but dared not trust 
 herself nearer to the mournful spot. When all w^as pre- 
 pared, Kolelwa returned, with the wife whohad assisted him, 
 for the body — Nombuna, the mother, still remaining half 
 concealed among the trees. Every thing was conducted 
 so silently that I did not perceive their return, until sud- 
 denly turning to the spot I observed the woman support- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 191 
 
 ing the body so naturally upon her lap, as she sat on the 
 ground, that at first I really supposed it had been a living 
 child. Dipping a bundle of leafy boughs into a calabash of 
 water, the body was first washed by the father, and then 
 laid by him in the grave ; on which I read a selection 
 from the burial service (such portions only as were strictly 
 applicable) ; concluding with a short exhortation to those 
 who were present. The entire opening was then filled in 
 with large faggots, over which earth was thrown, and 
 above all a considerable pile of thorny boughs and branches 
 heaped, in order to render it secure from the approach of 
 wild animals. I have been thus minute in describing 
 every circumstance, as the whole was arranged by the 
 natives themselves, considering it not only as due to their 
 feelings to interfere as little as possible, but likewise as 
 the surest way to accustom them gradually to adopt a 
 more decent method of sepulture. Before they returned 
 home they all went, as is customary, to wash themselves. 
 As it rarely occurs that any, excepting kings and some 
 of their principal men, are interred, I conclude that the 
 above is the usual method on such occasions. In the 
 Zoolu country it is not, however, unfrequent to inter sol- 
 diers of note, as well as those who have attained to a 
 great age, such being held in great esteem. When a 
 death occurs in a town or village, no milk is drunk, nor 
 are the cattle allowed to be milked on that day. The 
 body is interred after sunset ; but although it is customary 
 for the immediate relatives to relinquish their usual food, 
 and subsist upon wild roots until the next new moon, they 
 
192 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 do not desert their houses, as is generally the case among 
 the Amakosa. 
 
 Thomas Halstead, who has just returned from a trading 
 excursion in the Zoolu country, arrived here this morning 
 with a full confirmation of the unpleasant reports which, 
 through the medium of natives, had reached us some days 
 previously. A peremptory order had been given by Din- 
 garn for his leaving the country, coupled with directions 
 that he was not on any account to be supplied with milk 
 or provisions by the way. All trade was prohibited with 
 Port Natal ; and, with the exception of myself and my 
 interpreter, no white person was in future to cross the 
 Tugala. Under these circumstances, without any clue 
 to the cause of such a sudden rupture, I have no reason 
 to regard the strange exception made in my favour as a 
 very enviable distinction ; indeed, from the construction 
 put upon it by the natives, who do not hesitate to say 
 that it is merely a blind to lull me into security, the 
 mildest treatment I can expect will be to be retained as a 
 hostage for the good conduct of my countrymen, on my 
 very next arrival within the dominions of the despot. 
 
 Wednesday, July Ut. — Resolved to set out without 
 delay, and ascertain from Dingarn himself on what ac- 
 count the late harsh orders have been given. I have just 
 been informed by Mr. Cane, that the people of the village, 
 where the child died so suddenly yesterday morning, have 
 apprehended and killed a man, whom they charge with 
 having poisoned him. From the account given by the 
 natives, he had been obliged to leave the Inthlangwani 
 
200LU COUNTRY, 
 
 country on a similar charge ; and in the present instance 
 there was too much presumptive evidence of his guilt to 
 clear him from the horrid imputation. They acknowledged 
 to Mr. Cane, whom they regard as their chief, that they 
 had done wrong in taking the law into their own hands ; 
 but pleaded the impossibility of living in security with 
 such a person among them, and the humanity of the 
 white people, who they knew, had they expressed their 
 suspicions, would not have suffered him to have been put 
 to death. The wonder is, that in a community such as 
 this, where there is not a vestige of law, similar occur- 
 rences do not more frequently take place ; happily, the 
 natives are very abstemious, and by no means quarrelsome, 
 and are accustomed to pay great deference to those Eu- 
 ropeans whom they regard as their chiefs. 
 
 Thursdmj, 9.nd. — Having borrowed a horse for my 
 interpreter, I set out on horseback for the Zoolu country 
 soon after noon, accompanied by some natives carrying 
 my baggage. On the other side of the Umgani we found 
 the grass burning to a considerable extent ; this being the 
 season when, on account of its extreme dryness, the old 
 grass is usually set on fire. In one part the line of 
 flame united across the road, obliging me to make a little 
 detour, and, indeed, to push my horse over some of the 
 burning grass, in order to regain it without making a 
 considerable circuit. The wind was driving the flame up 
 the sides of the hills in long lines, which, added to the 
 loud crackling noise, had a very singular effect. The 
 appearance in a dark night of these extensive burnings 
 
 o 
 
194 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 is often very beautiful, but by no means equal to the 
 flaming forests which I have sometimes witnessed in 
 North America. Left the walking party, and slept under 
 a high tree a few miles beyond the Umtongata. 
 
 Saturday, ^tJi, — Having started yesterday at day-light, 
 we reached Mr. Plankenberg's at five. While waiting for 
 the baggage, I measured the girt of a large Kafir fig-tree 
 (species of banian), growing near the ford of the Tugala, 
 which was found to be sixty feet. One of the limbs has 
 grown through the heart of a neighbouring tree, and re- 
 ceives support from another, in a very extraordinary 
 manner. Crossed the river at four in the afternoon ; and, 
 on hearing that Zoolu was at the Black Clomanthleen, I 
 rode in on reaching the town to pay him a visit, thinking, 
 as he was an influential person, it would be a good op- 
 portunity to ascertain at once what was the actual feeling 
 respecting the King's order. He received me in a very 
 friendly manner, and promised to attend with some of 
 his people at the service I proposed to hold at the Injan- 
 diina on the following day. Reaching that place at six, 
 I received an equally friendly reception from Cokella. In 
 the evening himself and a large party of the soldiers 
 assembled in my hut. They sang and chatted alternately, 
 and seemed quite to enjoy themselves. Without directly 
 alluding to the subject, enough was dropped, in the course 
 of the conversation, to convince me, not only that there 
 had been great exaggeration respecting Dingarn's order 
 on the part of the traders, but also that he had been 
 greatly provoked by their conduct. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 195 
 
 Sunday^ 5tk. 
 
 ** The fear of man bringeth a snare : but whoso putteth his trust in 
 the Lord shall be safe." — (Proverbs xxix. 25.) 
 
 Firm is the Christian's trust, and sure 
 
 The anchor that sustains his soul ; 
 *Mid toils and dangers still secure, 
 
 He stands above the thunder's roll. 
 
 " Who shall harm you ? " he has said, 
 
 Strong to save — the mighty Lord ! 
 " My shield around you shall be spread — 
 
 All needed strength I will accord." 
 
 In duty's path no danger lies — 
 
 A Father's hand the way directs ; 
 His presence every want supplies, 
 
 Aijd from the fiercest foe protects. 
 
 What though the lion's den we share, 
 Or flaming furnace round us rage, 
 Our heavenly Guide will meet us there, 
 And all our anxious fears assuage. 
 
 In this blessed cause, whoe'er has lost, 
 
 A brighter treasure shall obtain. 
 While those who pause to count the cost, 
 
 Must soon resign their fancied gain. 
 
 Dear Lord ! wert thou to take my all, 
 
 I but Thine own restore I 
 Cheerful I yield to Thy just call — 
 
 Would I could give Thee morel 
 
 Zoolu sent to inform me, that, in consequence of the 
 death of one of his children, he should be unable to attend 
 the service. About one hundred people assembled. At 
 
 o 2 
 
196 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 the conclusion, Cokella remarked, " These are good 
 words," and thanked me for them, particularly for those 
 which enjoined obedience to the King, and all other 
 superiors ; adding, that these words would make all people 
 to be at peace, and set every thing right. He then 
 inquired whether I thought they should be able to know 
 them ? I told him that I hoped soon to come and live 
 among them, and then they could hear them often, and 
 what they did not understand could be explained to them 
 whenever they pleased. Some of the Nodunga people 
 were present. 
 
 Monday, QtJi. — Mambayendi having struck his foot 
 against a stump, was too lame to proceed ; a substitute 
 was therefore appointed by Cokella, and having despatched 
 the baggage-bearers by the direct road, I took a little 
 circuit, in order again to visit Culoola and Nodiinga. As 
 we ascended the hill towards the spot where the huts 
 were building at Culoola, a number of women were 
 observed bearing bundles of thatching grass upon their 
 heads, and as we approached they all saluted me with a 
 song. Two of the huts only were in progress — one 
 nearly completed, the other they promised to finish by the 
 time required. About noon we left Nodunga, and soon 
 after ascended a very rocky mountain. After passing 
 Emboniswani, the next village on this road, Cokochi, the 
 head servant of the Injanduna regiment, and who was 
 appointed to escort me in the place of Mambayendi, met 
 his aunt. The greeting was singular — he gave her his 
 hand, which she kissed with much apparent affection ; 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 197 
 
 hut even this dignified salute was not returned on the 
 part of Cokochi. On one or two occasions I have observed 
 Dingarn receive a similar salutation from a near relative, 
 and naturally concluded that this was merely court 
 etiquette ; but on questioning Cokochi on the subject, he 
 assured me that it was invariably the custom in their 
 country for the women to salute their male relations, 
 sometimes on the hand, at others on the cheek, but the 
 compliment was never returned by them. From Em- 
 bombusi, the path, which is carried about midway along 
 the side of the mountain, follows the course of the Ama- 
 takoola, which winds in a valley on the right. Crossing 
 this rocky stream, and again ascending, we reached Ama- 
 hushani at half-past five, having previously overtaken the 
 baggage-bearers at Gobeena. Huts were here provided 
 at my request, although strangers at this time were pro- 
 hibited ; one of the King's women having been sent here 
 in an ill state of health, and still residing among them. 
 Since leaving Nodunga, the whole of this day's journey 
 has been mountainous, detached and round-topped, and 
 generally composed of a dark-coloured sandstone and fel- 
 spar. In the lower grounds, the aloes, now in full 
 blossom, have a very gay appearance, while even on the 
 tops of the hills, wherever the old grass has been burnt, a 
 beautiful yellow crocus, peculiar, I believe, to this country 
 is met with in great abundance. 
 
 Tuesday, ^th. — Set out at a little before eight. Ob- 
 served many sweet-scented white crocuses. The path 
 more distinct, and the travelling less tedious over the 
 burnt districts. About noon, commenced the descent into 
 
198 
 
 JOLRNEY TO THE 
 
 the valley of the Umthlatoosi, the views in every part of 
 which are quite beautiful. The path is steep and rocky, 
 overlooking the windings of the river, which has a beau- 
 tiful effect as seen through vistas skirted with trees and 
 several species of aloes, the former often in blossom, and 
 the latter bearing an elegant candelabria flower of every 
 shade from deep red to the palest orange. At a quarter 
 past eleven, passed a village called Unthlacho, the first 
 habitations to be met with after leaving Amahushani *. 
 This place belongs to a chief named Sittai, whose son was 
 killed some time ago by order of Dingarn, in consequence, 
 it is said, of some intrigue against the government ; as 
 an additional chastisement, the people both of this and 
 the neighbouring village of Uiengo were at the same time 
 deprived of their cattle. Unable to procure any thing at 
 either, we continued our route through the valley, cross- 
 ing the river four times, to Engukani, one of the King's 
 villages, where we arrived at half-past twelve, and pro- 
 cured some sour milk for breakfast. Proceeding again at 
 three, we once more crossed the Umthlatoosi, and leaving 
 this romantic valley by a steep ascent, continued our 
 mountain route till near six, when we reached Amachin- 
 gani, a village situated on a height, surrounded by groves 
 of very high trees, called by the natives Umzani, and which 
 may be seen in all directions at a considerable distance. 
 
 Wednesdmj, Sth, — Set out at a quarter-past eight, the 
 path conducting generally over an elevated open country, 
 
 * This district is uninhabited on account of the number of lions 
 which infest the neighbourhood. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 . 199 
 
 more level than any other part of the road. On approaching 
 Unkunginglove it becomes more broken, and, on gaining 
 the heights which overlook the town, the hills are covered 
 with dwarf mimosa and other shrubs, intermixed occa- 
 sionally with euphorbia, which are generally the largest 
 trees in this part of the country. The town, which had 
 been rebuilt, appeared in the distance like an immense 
 assemblage of hay-stacks, the rays of the mid-day sun 
 shining brightly upon the newly-arranged thatch. The 
 whole was not yet completed — numbers of women, bear- 
 ing bundles of grass upon their heads, were approaching 
 from all sides, while, as we advanced towards the gate, we 
 observed several hundreds of the amabooto (young sol- 
 diers) hastening forward in compact lines, bearing mimosa 
 boughs for the fences. Having sent forward messengers to 
 announce my arrival, we entered the town at one o'clock. 
 
 The two Indoonas, apparently occupied about some 
 business, were seated in the midst of a large assembly 
 as I rode up, but they immediately came forward, saying 
 that the King was engaged in inspecting his cattle, but 
 that he would see me before I went into a house. Passing 
 through a large herd, I observed him seated upon his 
 straight-backed chair (a native one made out of a single 
 block), clothed in his old blue cloak, now threadbare and 
 greatly in need of a little soap and water. On my 
 approach, a bullock was pointed out as a present from the 
 King to be slaughtered for my party. The interview 
 lasted but a few minutes. Dingarn expressed himself 
 pleased at my return, recommending that 1 should now 
 
wo 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 rest myself, and that he would see me again. The houses 
 selected were as usual to the right of the principal 
 entrance, which has invariably been the case in all the 
 large towns I have visited. When last at the Injanduna 
 I inquired of Cokella the reason. " It is in that quarter," 
 he replied, " that the principal Indoonas always reside ; 
 only those of inferior rank live on the left." This evening, 
 while musing alone in my hut, I was accosted in tolerable 
 English, by a native crouched near the door, with " How 
 do, capitain ? " Curious to ascertain where he had 
 acquired this smattering of English, the first I had heard 
 uttered by a native, I called him in, and found on inquiry 
 that he had lately arrived from Delagoa Bay, with 
 copper-wire from the Portuguese factory, where he had 
 contrived to pick up a few words of English and Portu- 
 guese ; his stock of the former, however, was almost 
 exhausted in the first salutation. It is in this manner, by 
 an intermediate tribe of natives bordering the settlement, 
 that the Portuguese carry on their trade with the Zoolus. 
 The native language differs considerably from that spoken 
 here ; but not so much as to render them altogether unin- 
 telligible. 
 
 Thursday, ^th. — This afternoon Dingarn signified his 
 wish to see me, and for the first time received me into his 
 house : where I found him reclining near the door upon a 
 mat, supported by a head-stool and surrounded by about 
 fifty of his women, arranged in order round the sides of 
 the hut. This house, as may be supposed by the number 
 of its inmates, who only occupied the circumference, is of 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 201 
 
 considerable size, and was of sufficient height to stand 
 erect even with a hat on in almost every part ; but being 
 only lighted from the low door, and the whole interior 
 blackened by smoke, it had a most dismal and dungeon-like 
 appearance on first entering. The eye at length became 
 accommodated to the light, or rather obscurity, and soon 
 discovered the features of many a black beauty, who at 
 first was invisible ; the reflection from the brass orna- 
 ments worn round their throats and right arms alone 
 indicating their presence. 
 
 The frame-work was supported by three parallel rows of 
 posts, four in the middle and three on each side. The 
 fire-place, as is usual in all their houses, is situated about 
 one-third of the whole diameter from the door, to which 
 it is exactly opposite, and exhibits, for a Zoolu device, a 
 considerable degree of taste, the raised sides being waved 
 in the form shown in the Plate at the end, instead of the 
 general pattern — an exact circle. The floor is remarkably 
 even, and from being constantly rubbed and greased has 
 quite a polished appearance. Scarcely anything that 
 would come under the denomination of furniture was to 
 be seen. On one side of the fire-place stood a large bowl of 
 beer for present use, covered with an inverted basket, and 
 beside this, on a thick square mat, sometimes dignified by 
 the name of a table, were arranged eight or ten ladles, 
 merely the longitudinal section of a small calabash 
 formed from the gourd. These, with a few bead-dresses 
 of various colours suspended from the sides, were the only 
 relief afforded to this dusky abode. The bag containing 
 
202 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 the presents was then opened by Dingarn's desire, and its 
 contents displayed, consisting of beads, some broadcloth, 
 and a pair of boots, which I had brought merely on specu- 
 lation, being the largest that could be procured at Port 
 Natal. On opening the parcels and observing that the 
 beads were spotted, he named them the ingua (panther) 
 beads, and, apparently much pleased, amused himself for 
 some time by arranging them in various ways. The 
 operation of trying-on the boots now commenced, which 
 he endeavoured to do in a recumbent posture, my inter- 
 preter and his servant tugging at the loops with all their 
 might. At length, finding this a hopeless endeavour, he 
 took my advice and stood up, but would not divest his 
 ankle of its bandage of white beads, and once more thrust 
 his foot into the unyielding boot. His women were in a 
 titter the whole time, and he himself could not refrain 
 from laughing at the extraordinary predicament in which 
 he was placed. Although there was ample room, had 
 he but applied his own strength, this second attempt was 
 equally unsuccessful; and at length disengaging his foot, 
 he seemed glad to find himself again at liberty, requesting 
 that my next present might be shoes and not boots, as 
 less troublesome to " put in," as he expressed it. Desiring 
 his women to amuse me by singing during his absence, 
 he then suddenly made his exit. Although they sang in 
 parts and in good time, the high pitch of so many female 
 voices, unaccompanied by a bass, was not altogether 
 pleasing, especially as it was continued for some time. 
 About an hour had passed in this manner, when a cessa- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 203 
 
 tion took place, and some of them came near and begged 
 of me beads. During the whole time that Dingarn had 
 been present, they slid about on their knees whenever they 
 wished to move from one part of the house to another, but 
 now observing them to walk as usual, I inquired the 
 cause. They said that they were not now afraid of the 
 King ; but that while he was present in the house they 
 were never permitted to stand up, but always moved about 
 in the manner I had seen. A servant was now sent to 
 conduct me without the Issigordlo, to a group of chiefs 
 seated before a large concourse of men standing around 
 them in a semi-circle. Tambooza, who was among them, 
 desired me to seat myself near him, and I felt convinced 
 that a conference was about to be held before Dingarn on 
 some business of importance. Nothing, however, was 
 more distant from his thoughts ; but, actuated merely by 
 a sudden freak, he issued from his gateway the most 
 extraordinary figure that can well be imagined. During 
 the interval that his women were singing, he had caused 
 his whole body, not excepting his face, to be thickly 
 daubed over with red and white clay in spots, and had 
 but his figure corresponded with the character, he might 
 have passed at Astley's for the genuine harlequin of the 
 night. Thus adorned, a dance and a song were the least 
 I expected, but he contented himself with receiving the 
 acclamations of " Byate, " " Thou who art for ever," 
 The great black one," &c. &c. ; and again retired as 
 unaccountably from the sight of his wondering subjects, 
 who none of them could devise the import of this singular 
 exhibition. All I could collect from them was, that it 
 
204 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 was a new thing, that he had done it because he was the 
 King and could do what he pleased. It is not, however, 
 improbable that the sight of the spotted beads had put 
 this strange crotchet into his head. 
 
 Friday, lOth. — The scene here is a busy one — houses 
 in all stages of progress — some in frame — men perched 
 upon the tops of others thatching — lines of women bear- 
 ing bundles of grass upon their heads — the young men 
 carrying boughs and faggots, and all moving in order to 
 the tune of a song. A stranger would at once pronounce 
 them a happy people, but their natural vivacity is too 
 often quenched by the rule of despotism and the dread 
 of a violent death, to permit them long to enjoy such 
 intervals of repose. The huts are more numerous and 
 better built than in the former town, and to my great 
 relief are as yet untenanted by rats The surrounding 
 country is now a perfect blanket, every thing at this sea- 
 son of the year being parched and dry. 
 
 MOON RISING AT UNKUNGINGLOVE. 
 
 While yet I marked the glowing- West, 
 
 Still reddened with the blush of day, 
 The beauteous moon, with silver vest, 
 
 Arose to shed her milder ray. 
 
 It was not night — the shadows fled 
 
 Beneath her full effulgent beam. 
 That on each mountain crest was spread, 
 
 Like the smooth face of some fair stream. 
 
 * The houses are now removed to the vacant space which appears in 
 the sketch between the two outer fences, and the inner fence is removed 
 altogether. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 205 
 
 Long on that glorious light I gazed, 
 
 To brighter scenes in spirit borne, 
 Till every thought to Him was raised 
 
 Who of his brightness once was shorn. 
 
 Sweet emblem of a Saviour's grace ! 
 
 In milder rays of Gospel light 
 The image of our God we trace, 
 
 Though once we trembled at the sight. 
 
 The still small voice of love proclaims 
 
 The fiery law's demands obeyed ; 
 Where Justice frowned now mercy reigns, 
 
 Each are in sweet accord displayed. 
 
 Where grace has dawned 'twill ne'er decay ; 
 
 Though faint the light, and darkly seen, 
 'Twill kindle to that perfect day. 
 
 Where not a cloud shall intervene. 
 
 Whate'er to faith is yet concealed, 
 
 That glorious day will then declare ; 
 And God himself will be revealed, — 
 
 The only brightness needed there. 
 
 Saturdat/y 11th. — This morning, long before daylight, 
 I was awoke by the vociferations of a man running 
 through the town, and shouting as he went in the most 
 peremptory tone. Not long after this hoarse salute, 
 hundreds of female voices, in pleasing concert, again broke 
 the stillness of the night, by a song which became still 
 louder and louder, until at length it as gradually passed 
 away, and all was again still. On inquiry, as soon as the 
 people were about, I found that an order had suddenly 
 been issued by Dingarn, that every female should instantly 
 
206 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 leave the town for the purpose of procuring fencing bushes 
 at Imbelli-belli. These unfortunate drudges were accord- 
 ingly obliged to rise at his bidding, and commence a walk 
 of ten miles at that unseasonable hour, notwithstanding 
 w^hich they sang, as they went, one of the most melodious 
 songs I have ever heard. 
 
 About ten o'clock, a large party of young soldiers (560) 
 arrived with bundles of bushes from the same place ; they 
 also entered the town with a song, and, as they passed 
 along in a continued line, seemed like a moving forest. 
 It is perhaps as well that the building mania is now so 
 dominant, as this is the season when they usually go out 
 to war. An entirely new ekanda, or military town, has 
 recently sprung up, not more than three miles to the 
 northward of this — the regiment called Inzimmunzana 
 having been removed from a spot equally distant in an 
 opposite direction. 
 
 By pacing half the circumference of the exterior fence 
 and the diameter of the interior, I have calculated the 
 number of houses in the town to be about 1100, and the 
 population about 5500. In any other than a military 
 place, the average of five individuals to each house, which 
 I have allowed, would be too many, as in those there are 
 frequently three or four houses belonging to one family ; 
 but in the ekandas no person, with the exception of the 
 Indoonas of the regiment, are permitted to have more 
 than one, which he occupies generally with two wives and 
 as many servants. Umthlella and Tambooza, who have 
 the privilege of being married, have three houses, one for 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 207 
 
 themselves, and the other two for the accommodation of 
 their wives ; but, in the generality of the out-places, 
 at least two thirds of the houses may always be considered 
 as occupied by the women. This afternoon, a quarrel 
 having arisen respecting the thatching of a house, one of 
 the disputants bit the finger of the other severely : the case 
 was immediately referred to Umthlella, who sentenced the 
 assailant to the fine of a cow and a calf. In the afternoon, 
 the women returned from Imbelli-belli, bearing large 
 bundles of bushes upon their heads, and singing as they 
 passed along the following words, the same which they 
 also sang in the night — 
 
 Akoosiniki ingonyama izeeswi 
 Chorus. Haw — haw — haw — haw. 
 
 Literally, " Why don't you give — lion — the nations." 
 
 The King was so much occupied about the buildings, 
 that he excused himself from attending to the business 
 which I was desirous to bring before him to-day, but 
 desired me, in the mean time, to communicate the par- 
 ticulars to the two Indoonas, who visited me in my hut for 
 that purpose. They both disowned any knowledge of the 
 King's order respecting the traders, first saying that it 
 was on account of their not having previously obtained 
 leave from him; but in this I was enabled to confute 
 them, having been at Congella at the very time when 
 Thomas Halstead (one of them) came up and obtained 
 Dingarn's sanction. John Snelder, the other trader in 
 question, had evidently incensed them by bringing back 
 
208 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 two Zoolu lads as servants to the very town from whence 
 he had taken them just before the treaty was arranged. 
 Both were taken from him and killed, by an order from 
 Dingarn. They then acknowledged, what I now believe 
 to be the true reason, that, notwithstanding the mutual 
 agreement which had been entered into, some of the 
 traders had not kept their faith, but still continued to 
 induce the natives to desert, secreting them, particularly 
 young women, in their waggons, and conveying them by 
 stealth to Port Natal. They said that they were perfectly 
 convinced that I was not aware of this, but, nevertheless, 
 they knew that it was still practised. Another circum- 
 stance of some importance was alluded to ; the men in 
 charge of the last two prisoners, had been unable to 
 convey them beyond the Tugala. The information I had 
 received at Port Natal regarding them was, that the men, 
 after placing them in a hut, went in quest of tobacco ; 
 and, as might be expected, on their return no prisoners 
 were found to guard. The version current here is widely 
 different. The men, they say, did not leave their charge, 
 but several white men coming to the spot, engaged them 
 in conversation, and, while their attention was drawn off, 
 rescued the girls, who have never been heard of since. 
 Unfortunately they look to me alone for the due perform- 
 ance of the treaty, and shrewdly remark that, notwith- 
 standing letters were sent off at the time, some to traders 
 then in the country, others to Port Natal, still " the words " 
 have not been obeyed. Most gladly would I divest myself 
 of all responsibility in these matters, which are quite 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 209 
 
 foreign to the objects I have in view — but Dingarn has 
 more than once declared that he looks only to me, and 
 will treat with no other ; and — as the treaty is popular 
 with them, and the King has evinced a decided intention 
 to abide by his word — for the credit of my countrymen, 
 and the permanency of the mission already established in 
 their country, I feel myself bound by a double duty, as 
 far as in me lies, to see it punctually fulfilled. They 
 urged me much to enter upon this subject with them 
 before the King to-morrow ; but I told them that it was 
 not right to engage in such matters on God's day, which 
 should be employed in worshipping him. It was there- 
 fore agreed that the conference should be held on 
 Monday. 
 
 Sunday^ \^th, 
 
 " Jesus Christ, of whom the whole family in heaven and earth is 
 named." — (Ephesians iii. 15.) 
 
 Blessed Union I Christ the head ! 
 
 One family in heaven and earth ; 
 All for whom his blood was shed, — 
 
 United by that mystic birth. 
 
 Let us then as brethren dwell, 
 
 In sweet communion here below ; 
 Of all our Father's goodness tell, 
 
 Till joy within each bosom glow. 
 
 How sweet to feel we're not our own, 
 
 But purchased by his dying love ! 
 Who (feigns one family to own 
 
 Of saints below and saints above. 
 
 P 
 
210 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Nothing can our union sever — 
 Bound with links can ne'er decay ; 
 
 Let us then with joy endeavour 
 To help each other by the way. 
 
 One faith, one hope, one glorious Head, 
 
 One common war to wage ; 
 Be love the banner o'er us spread, 
 
 While on this toilsome pilgrimage. 
 
 See that bright angelic band — 
 
 Sisters, brothers, gone before ; 
 Soon beside them we shall stand. 
 
 Redeeming mercy to adore. 
 
 The victor's palm through grace they bear, — 
 
 Of witnesses a glorious cloud ; 
 In all our triumphs still they share, 
 
 And strike their golden harps aloud. 
 
 Though trials we may yet endure, 
 Like faith and patience let us prove ; 
 
 The promises are still as sure. 
 
 And grace is free — and God is love I 
 
 Monday, ISth. — Last night, about seven o'clock, the 
 people were suddenly called, and my interpreter came to 
 inform me that the town was on fire. As large bundles 
 of thatching-grass were collected in different parts, adding 
 considerably to the inflammable materials of the whole 
 place, serious consequences were at first apprehended. 
 Providentially, the fire broke out on the lee-side, and the 
 wind drove it across the outer fence. The blaze at first 
 was terrific ; but by the immediate removal of houses for 
 some distance round the ignited quarter, the communica- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 211 
 
 tion was soon cut off. The rapidity with which this was 
 effected was extraordinary — as many men as could stand 
 round a house, by main strength pulled it up, as it were, 
 by the roots, and in a few minutes the materials were 
 conveyed to a distance. There was no confusion, the 
 Indoonas presiding during the whole time, and issuing 
 the necessary orders. 
 
 As soon as a sufficient space was cleared round the 
 flaming houses, a close cordon of men was formed, who 
 kept their station, with stakes in their hands, until all 
 apprehension of danger was over. Dingarn did not make 
 his appearance, although the fire took place not far from 
 the Issigdrdlo, but messengers were frequently passing to 
 acquaint him how matters were going on. I endea- 
 voured to persuade them to bring water, but they said it 
 was too far. The only means employed to extinguish the 
 fire, was by occasionally throwing dust upon the flaming 
 thatch, which not being heaped in sufficient quantities, 
 had but little effect. The remarkable glare which was 
 cast upon the wild features and gestures of the natives 
 composing this immense concourse, all actively employed 
 in the midst of flaming houses and smoking rubbish, 
 would have been a fine scene for a painter. 
 
 As usual, it is not exactly known how it commenced, 
 though a tolerably shrewd guess may be made, since it is 
 stated that a fire was left unattended in the very house 
 first ignited, during the time the people of that section 
 were called to eat meat, which they always partake of in a 
 group in the open air. Although thirty-two houses were 
 
 P 2 
 
212 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 consumed, providentially not a single person was hurt on 
 the occasion. By noon this day the burnt fence had been 
 replaced, and new houses were erecting on the site of those 
 which had been so recently reduced to ashes — before the 
 sun sets, scarcely a vestige will remain of the burning. 
 No message having been sent from the King, I sent my 
 interpreter to remind him of my wish to leave on this 
 day, and to request an audience previously. 
 
 He soon sent to signify his readiness to receive me ; 
 and, accompanied by the two Indoonas, we proceeded to the 
 Issigordlo, where he appeared, reclining on ahead-stool in 
 the door of his house. On being requested to commence the 
 conversation, I said that I was desirous to know on what 
 account two of the traders (mentioning their names) had 
 been sent out of the country ; that I had already heard their 
 own statement, but, as there were always two sides to 
 every case, it was necessary to know what charges he 
 brought against them before we could decide what ought to 
 be done in the matter. " Now," he said, " it is my turn to 
 speak" — and related the whole circumstance; from which 
 it would appear that they had given him just cause for 
 offence. The allegations were, that John Snelder, as 
 before stated, had returned with some young men, whom 
 he had induced to accompany him to Port Natal, about 
 the time that the treaty was arranged ; and that Thomas 
 Halsted had falsely used his name, by informing the 
 Indoona of the town where he was trading, that it was 
 the King's order that he should dispose of his cattle to 
 him. He likewise complained of the general conduct of 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 213 
 
 the traders in inducing his people to desert, and con- 
 veying them out of his country in their waggons. On 
 this latter point I questioned him closely, in order to 
 ascertain whether, since the negociation of the treaty, so 
 serious a charge could be substantiated. 
 
 No positive proof was adduced — but so little reliance 
 were they disposed to place upon the professions of any of 
 the traders, that Dingarn plainly avowed he could not 
 depend upon them, since they had so often deceived him 
 before. On this, I assured him that the white people at 
 Port Natal were agreed to observe the terms of the treaty ; 
 and that he might rely upon it no deserters had been 
 received there since that period. That I did not know 
 they were there, he said, he was quite certain, or they 
 would have been sent back ; but he had often spoken on the 
 subject to them, without effect. The word, I replied, 
 which had passed between us should not fall to the ground ; 
 if deserters were found at Port Natal, he might rely upon 
 their being sent back. Dingarn then said, that he con- 
 sidered me as the Chief of the white people there ; and 
 that he should look to me to keep things right. I told 
 him that as far as I was able this should be done, but 
 that beyond persuasion I had no power. His reply was, 
 ** You must have power. I give you all the country 
 called Issibubulungu* — you must be the chief over all the 
 people there." I said, that I did not wish for power ; 
 that my object in coming into his country was only to be 
 a teacher; but, since he had said that he should look to 
 
 ^ Literally, the white people's ford. 
 
214 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 me alone to regulate all matters relating to the white 
 people, I would accept it, in order that I might take 
 these words to the Great Chief, at Graham's Town (he 
 considers that as the seat of government) ; and if I ob- 
 tained his sanction also, I should then be enabled to 
 preserve the treaty from being broken — which otherwise I 
 had no power to enforce. The territory in question was 
 described by Umthlella and Tambooza, to whom I after- 
 wards referred for an explanation, as extending between 
 the Tugala and Umzimcoolu rivers, north and south, and 
 from the sea coast to the Quathlamba or Snowy Moun- 
 tains, which form nearly a square, each side of which is 
 about one hvmdred and twenty geographical miles in a 
 direct line. Included within these limits, they also 
 informed me that the King had granted to me personally 
 the district about Port Natal, from the Umgani to the 
 Umzimcoolu. Thinking it would be more satisfactory to 
 both parties, I offered some advice respecting a guarantee ; 
 which, if required of all traders entering the country, 
 would tend to establish mutual confidence. To this, 
 however, Dingarn would not listen — saying, that all such 
 matters must be regulated by me at Port Natal ; and that 
 from this time he should not receive any trader who had 
 not previously obtained my consent ; thus throwing the 
 whole responsibility upon me. I inquired if he would 
 not make some exceptions, particularizing one who was 
 well known to him. No," he replied, " there must be 
 no difference ; those who wish to trade must first obtain 
 leave from you ; a message must then be sent, signifying 
 the same to me, and I will send an answer to Port Natal. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 215 
 
 This is the place to which they must come ; and when they 
 arrive I will send round to all who wish to sell to them, 
 and the things shall be brought here." After a few more 
 observations, the subject, which had occupied nearly an 
 hour, was ended ; and, at his request, I entered his house 
 in order to take his measure for a pair of slippers. It 
 was as I had imagined — empty; women being always 
 excluded while business is transacting. I soon after took 
 my leave, on which he evinced much sincerity in his 
 good wishes for a prosperous journey. 
 
 At three o'clock this afternoon I set out on my return, 
 reaching Amachingani at half past six; where, with my 
 interpreter, I remained for the night. The baggage-bearers 
 did not get beyond Ukittaketani, one of the King's villages, 
 where we had proposed sleeping, but had missed the path 
 in the dark. Procured a mat, and with my saddle as a 
 pillow, and the horse-rug as a covering, soon forgot the 
 loss of my baggage. 
 
 Tuesday, l^th Early this morning the people arrived, 
 
 accompanied also by a messenger from Dingarn, who had 
 despatched him soon after we left yesterday. The purport 
 of his message was to say that the King did not think he 
 had sufficiently thanked me for some fresh presents I had 
 promised him, — that if I brought him any thing curious 
 he should be obliged ; this, however, he would leave to 
 me, as I now knew what he liked : but that which he 
 desired the most was more of the red-cloth stuff. This 
 I promised 1 would endeavour to procure ; and soon after 
 seven proceeded on my journey. The grass, on the parts 
 
216 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 where it had not been burnt, was so completely dried up 
 that we might literally be said to ride through standing 
 hay. Reached Engukani, the first village in the valley 
 of Thlatoosi, at a quarter to eleven ; a halting-place 
 which I always delight in, though the scenery between 
 the two next winds of the river is the finest. The 
 following lines may perhaps convey some idea of the 
 features of this secluded valley : — 
 
 Sweet vale ! — Thlatoosi lingers here, 
 Lost in the mazes of yon rocky steep ; 
 
 His murmuring- waters, deep and clear, 
 In many a graceful winding sweep ; 
 
 Reluctant hence to force his way 
 
 Through channels where he loves to stray. 
 
 And here I fain would linger too. 
 
 Soothed by a scene so bright — so fair; 
 
 Trace all your deep recesses through, 
 And gaze upon the beauties there ; 
 
 Till every thought is raised from earth, 
 
 To Him who gave the mountains birth. 
 
 Methinks these beauteous spots remain, 
 
 Like virtues in the savage breast, 
 Mementos that we still retain 
 
 Of purity at first impressed ; 
 Brief notices of Eden's joy, 
 That sin itself could not destroy. 
 
 They speak in heavenly accents still. 
 And tell of days when all was good ; 
 
 And seem to ask — " What caused this ill; 
 Who has creative power withstood — 
 
 Why mute the lips that grateful bore 
 
 Thanksgivings to our God before ? " 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 217 
 
 Lord I when shall man unite his praise ? 
 
 Let not thy creature stand alone ; 
 Cause him again to know thy ways, 
 
 All else thy power and goodness own. 
 On these dry bones thy spirit breathe, 
 And all thy wonted love bequeath. 
 
 So shall each rugged glen and bower 
 
 Throughout this vale a witness bear 
 Of Jesus' all constraining power, 
 
 And echo back the Zoolu's prayer; 
 Till grace thine image shall restore, 
 And melt the hearts were steeled before. 
 
 Between this spot and Amahushani I observed on many 
 of the ridges a stratum of rock, similar to that used as 
 crucibles for melting brass at Unkunginglove. It is a 
 very coarse, soft sand-stone ; and has the remarkable 
 property of standing any degree of heat. 
 
 Wednesday, 15th, — An ox, which had been driven 
 before us from Ukittaketani, was killed last night ; and by 
 the time we were ready to start this morning the only 
 vestige was a leg, — the remainder having been quietly 
 disposed of by my twelve baggage-bearers, who, as usual, 
 were decorated with fat and fillets of hide bound round 
 their foreheads, the hair hanging over their eyes, which 
 gave them an unusually wild appearance. There had 
 been rain during the night, and the day was one of the 
 coldest I have felt in this country ; as a proof, ice was seen 
 in the hollows of some of the ravines which we passed in 
 the early part of the morning, and the grass in those 
 situations was covered with a hoar frost. After traversing 
 
218 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 the Amaguya mountain — which rises very abruptly, and 
 is seen to a great distance — we reached soon after eleven 
 a small village at its foot, called Amatchubani; and thence, 
 proceeding by Etandwani, reached the Injandiina at two. 
 Cokella, as we rode up, was seated near the gate with a 
 party of men, warming themselves round a fire. Although 
 they replied to two or three questions which I asked, they 
 appeared for a few minutes to take little notice of us, 
 when suddenly Cokella rose, and saluting me with a loud 
 Dakubona (I have seen you), seized me by the hand ; the 
 rest all followed his example— some holding me by the 
 arm, others by the wrist, but each, with the most friendly 
 intention, saluting me as they supposed after the English 
 fashion, which, out of compliment to me, they had endea- 
 voured to imitate. Besides a list of four men, sixteen 
 women, and five children — all deserters which had been 
 given to me on the day I left Unkunginglove, and which 
 must, no doubt, have greatly annoyed Dingarn, to whom 
 they had just been reported — I was here informed that 
 Bengapi, the principal wife of Zoolu (Indoona of the Black 
 Clomanthleen) had absconded eight days ago, and had 
 taken the road to Port Natal. 
 
 Having presented Cokella with the cloth I had promised 
 him for an ingoobo (cloak), I went on immediately to the 
 Black Shields — Cokella, and the whole of the people 
 assembling at the gate as we rode off, wishing me a good 
 journey ; and hoping that I should " go well on the path." 
 On niy arrival, Zoolu, who is a fine-looking chief, with a 
 Roman nose and commanding appearance, came out of 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 219 
 
 his hut with several attendants. He seemed as little 
 concerned about the fate of his wife as any of the by- 
 standers; saying, that he hoped she would be taken, 
 though he must have been well aware of the cruel death 
 which would assuredly await her on reaching Unkunging- 
 love. Neither himself nor Cokella could charge her with 
 any fault ; and it appeared to them both (as it certainly 
 did to me) a mystery why she should risk her life by 
 going to a place where, if discovered, she would most 
 assuredly be sent back in confinement. It is possible 
 that she may have buoyed herself up with the hope of 
 security, on hearing of a circumstance which took place 
 just before I last crossed the Tugala. Two natives from 
 Port Natal had, with the sanction of their white chief, 
 been actually attempting, with the offer of beads, to induce 
 their relatives in the Zoolu country to desert and join 
 them there. These men we met on their return as we 
 were approaching the river, little suspecting their design : 
 but the very attempt, so immediately after, and directly 
 opposed to the terms of the treaty then in force, might 
 have led Bengapi to suppose that she would be well 
 received. Both a wife and a child in this country are 
 designated by the term Umtuana, which is puzzling to 
 a stranger; and without further inquiry liable to lead 
 into mistake. For instance, when last in this neigh- 
 bourhood, Zoolu had excused himself from attending the 
 service on Sunday, on the plea that his child was past 
 recovery — or dead ; as the messenger expressed it. This 
 child, however, now turns out to have been one of his 
 
2210 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 wives, now convalescent ; but who it seems had been in 
 a dangerous state. Reached Mangnenas soon after four ; 
 but the baggage did not arrive until some time after. 
 
 Tliursdmj^ \Qth. — Crossed theTugala, and breakfasted 
 at Mr. Plankenberg's. Not being able to procure a suffi- 
 cient number of fresh bearers for the baggage, I sent a 
 message to the White Shields, requesting Nongalaza to 
 procure the men required. Without waiting for them I 
 proceeded again at three, attended by my interpreter and 
 two servants. Soon after sunset we crept into some dila- 
 pidated hunters' huts by the road-side ; which, though 
 partly unthatched, afforded a tolerable shelter until the 
 moon arose at two, when I pushed on with my inter- 
 preter, leaving the men to follow at day-light. 
 
 Friday^ Ylth. — Reached Berea this afternoon, at a 
 quarter past three ; and soon after rode to Mr. Collis's, six 
 miles distant, in order to acquaint him with the very 
 awkward situation in which Dingarn had placed me, and 
 to inform him of the measures I had in consequence taken 
 with respect to the trade ; in all which he expressed his 
 entire concurrence. Returned home at eight ; having 
 been fifteen hours on horseback, since two o'clock this 
 morning, and that without a relay. No tidings had been 
 heard respecting the recent deserters. 
 
 Saturday, ISth. — As Dingarn has resolved that I shall 
 be responsible for the good conduct of every individual 
 who crosses his frontier from the vicinity of Port Natal, 
 my obvious duty appears to be, without delay, to com- 
 municate with his Excellency Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 221 
 
 Governor of the Cape Colony, on the subject, with the 
 hope of obtaining his sanction for the appointment of 
 some officer, with sufficient powers to enforce the treaty, 
 and regulate the affairs of the settlement. In the 
 mean time the trade, with one admitted exception in 
 favour of Mr. Collis, has been virtually stopped, having 
 no legal authority to demand a recognizance from each 
 individual trader, without which guarantee I cannot con- 
 scientiously take upon myself the responsibility of their 
 future conduct. The inconvenience which may be felt 
 cannot but be temporary ; and it appeared to me of far 
 more importance to preclude the possibility of any infrac- 
 tion of the treaty, than that the trade should be allowed 
 to proceed in its present unorganized state. The subject, 
 unfortunately, does not rest here, but involves what is of 
 much greater consequence than mere trade - the character 
 of our own countrymen, and the interests of religion and 
 civilization at large. To attempt any amelioration in the 
 condition and habits of the natives— to endeavour to in- 
 struct them in the doctrines and practice of vital religion, 
 would, humanly speaking, be futile, while subject to an 
 influence too baneful to be particularized, and daily 
 familiarized to such glaring derelictions from christian 
 duty, as must tend greatly to compromise any counter 
 effort that might be made by the most devoted and in- 
 defatigable missionary exertions. On the other hand, if 
 we consider the mere thread by which personal security 
 is held from day to day — the integrity of a treaty already 
 tacitly infringed — the very existence of a missionary esta- 
 
222 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 blishment becomes involved in the measures that may be 
 adopted for its punctual fulfilment. 
 
 Full well do I know and feel, that whenever a minister 
 of the gospel turns aside to mingle in politics, insomuch 
 has he departed from his evident path of duty. His single 
 undivided aim should be the glory of his Lord and Master, 
 to whom he must shortly give an account of his steward- 
 ship : and through good report and evil report, regardless 
 alike of opposition or danger, he will neither lean to his 
 own understanding, nor depend for success upon his own 
 unworthy endeavours ; thankful to feel, and to acknow- 
 ledge, that neither his ability nor his success depends upon 
 himself, but alone proceeds from above. There are, how- 
 ever, situations and circumstances, and this appears to be 
 one, in which it is his duty to use his influence in pro- 
 curing, and in all cases in supporting, such civil authorities 
 as may be requisite for the suppression of vice, and the 
 well-being of the community in which he resides. Under 
 this view of the whole subject, and although acting at 
 present in the capacity of a missionary, until ordained 
 ministers of the Church of England can be induced to 
 occupy these stations, I have resolved to proceed immedi- 
 ately to the colony, for the purpose of obtaining the advice 
 of his Excellency the Governor, without awaiting the 
 arrival of the trading sloop, now more than three months 
 absent, and whose return may be yet unavoidably pro- 
 tracted. 
 
 During my absence, a report has obtained circulation 
 among the natives here (whether true or false I have now 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 9,23 
 
 no means of ascertaining), that several of the Zoolu 
 chiefs, with Umthlella at their head, during my last visit, 
 resolved to take my life, alleging that they were suspi- 
 cious of the influence I had obtained with Dingarn ; but 
 that the design was over-ruled by himself and one of his 
 father's widows, named Umkabai. Should there be any 
 real foundation for such a report, I have indeed great 
 cause for gratitude to a merciful God, in having been 
 preserved from the pending danger ; but I cannot for a 
 moment entertain the supposition, their conduct having 
 been latterly so friendly, and their desire to place this 
 part of the country under my controul having been so 
 openly and so cordially avowed. 
 
 Sundmj, \^th, 
 
 " Be ye reconciled to God." — 2 Corinth, v. 20. 
 
 Oh I the depth of Sovereign grace, 
 While in sin's dark ways we trod ; 
 Jesus seeks our rebel race, 
 " Be ye reconciled to God ! " 
 
 And can it be — the Lord from heaven 
 
 A suppliant at the sinner's feet ? 
 He, whose blood for us was given, 
 
 Thus humbly deigning to entreat ! 
 
 Well may angels long to know 
 
 The mystery of such boundless love ; 
 And wonder as they gaze below. 
 
 And mark how cold our bosoms prove. 
 
 That God had e'er a way devised 
 
 To reconcile himself to those 
 Who long his proffered grace despised, 
 
 A depth of love unmeasured shows. 
 
224 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 But language fails — no words can tell, 
 
 Nor human powers the riches trace, 
 Which in those wondrous accents dwell, — 
 
 The fulness of redeeming grace. 
 
 With shame our faces let us veil, 
 
 Whene'er those gracious words we read, 
 
 Our deep ingratitude bewail, — 
 For pardon, and for mercy plead. 
 
 Then, in a world of light above, 
 
 Our grateful song will ceaseless be 
 Worthy the Lamb, whose conquering love 
 
 Has reconciled my God to me. 
 
 Not more than thirty natives present at the Kafir 
 service, the people not being aware of my return. 
 
 Mondmj, 20th. — Commenced my journey this day, but 
 not so early as I had hoped, having waited some time for the 
 people with my baggage from the Tugala, and eventually 
 started without it ; so that we had no tent by the way. 
 For the sake of speed the section of a waggon, viz. the 
 hind wheels with a platform secured upon the bed, had 
 been prepared ; and with this nondescript vehicle and two 
 spans of eight oxen, accompanied by my interpreter and 
 Umpondombeeni, I set out from Berea at one o'clock, and 
 bivouacked for the night on the right bank of the Pon- 
 gata. 
 
 Tuesdmj, 9.1st — Crossed the Mansbitote and Eloffe ; 
 and at half-past four descended a steep hill to the Umca- 
 mas, whence we continued our route to a rocky stream 
 beyond, stopping, on a hill on the other side, for the night 
 at a quarter past six. A piece of loose canvas thrown 
 over the cart formed my tent ; my bed, being spread 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 225 
 
 between the wheels on the ground, which, from having so 
 often fared worse, I considered in some respects luxu- 
 rious. 
 
 Wednesday, 22nd, — Although knee-haltered, my horse 
 contrived to stray away during the night ; and after send- 
 ing back to the Umcamas, and vainly searching in all 
 directions, I was obliged to proceed without him, taking 
 my uneasy station at half-past ten upon one of the boxes 
 on the cart, which had no sides. I had not been very 
 long in my new position, when, in passing a wooded defile, 
 the wheel came in contact with a stump, oversetting the 
 vehicle, and tossing my interpreter and myself into the 
 bushes : providentially neither of us was hurt. The 
 difficulty now was to raise the vehicle ; two of the oxen were 
 chained for this purpose to the upper wheel, but all our 
 attempts failed to induce them to pull in the right direc- 
 tion ; so that it became necessary to take every thing off, 
 and even then it was not without some difficulty that, with 
 our united strength, we were enabled to raise it to its 
 former position. We now found that one of the standards 
 had been broken by the fall ; but this, after a little con- 
 trivance, we were enabled to remedy. By this accident 
 we were delayed more than an hour. The road soon after 
 descends to the beach, when we crossed theUmpombinyoiii. 
 The mattingoolos were still ripe, and many of the trees 
 retained their blossom. The pulp of this fruit is very like 
 raspberry and cream, and partakes in some slight degree 
 of the flavour also. The tree is bushy, with a glossy deep 
 green leaf, and is covered with sharp thorns. The star- 
 
 Q 
 
2S6 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 shaped blossom is of a delicate white, with a jessamine 
 scent. It is never observed to grow beyond a mile from 
 the coast. There is also another wild fruit abundant in 
 this part ; it is about the size of a coffee-berry, with a 
 rough flavour ; contains a stone, and grows near the sea 
 upon a low shrub, with thickset rounded leaves. Reached 
 Mr. Cane's village at a quarter past four, when we com- 
 menced repairing damages. This is not the spot where 
 the canoe was built ; the village which then existed, about 
 half a mile distant, having since been removed to this 
 place. A bullock was here procured and slaughtered, as 
 provisions for the remainder of the journey across the 
 uninhabited district. 
 
 Tliursdmj, ^^rd. — Having deposited our supply of meat 
 in the skin of the animal suspended underneath the cart, 
 we proceeded soon after nine. Observed frequent traces 
 of wild boar. The generality of the rivers being pent up 
 at their mouths by sandy bars, the waters from the interior 
 frequently expand over a wide surface within the bank, 
 having all the appearance of small lakes. In these situa- 
 tions hippopotami were occasionally seen ; their noses only 
 emerging from the water. They are likewise resorted to 
 by flocks of wild duck, which sometimes rose on our ap- 
 proach ; while on the higher grounds the pow (a large 
 species of bustard) was frequently seen. 
 
 Friday, 24ith. — The tracts of hippopotami, panther, 
 hyena, with many animals of the deer kind, have been 
 numerous and were readily distinguished while occasionally 
 passing along the beach ; but, in addition to these, both 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 227 
 
 yesterday and to-day, we have traced for some distance 
 the foot-prints of a lion. On descending to the upper 
 ford of the Umzimcoolu, we observed several hippopotami 
 sunning themselves upon a sand-bank, in the middle of the 
 stream. The scenery in this neighbourhood is very beau- 
 tiful ; the banks are prettily wooded and margined by high 
 broken hills, commanding fine views of the river, for some 
 distance winding below. We were nearly an hour in 
 effecting the passage across ; the water being in one part 
 so high that the oxen were obliged to swim, and conse- 
 quently every article in the boxes was wet. 
 
 Had we been but half an hour later, the tide, which 
 was still rising, would have prevented us from crossing ; 
 indeed, before we left the river was full, the tide flowing 
 considerably above the ford. Thought much of the gra- 
 cious providence by which I was saved, when last here, 
 from a situation of great anxiety and distress. With the 
 Psalmist I have indeed cause to say, " Bless the Lord, O 
 my soul ! and forget not all His benefits." 
 
 The contents of the boxes having been spread out and 
 tolerably dried by the sun, we again proceeded, when I 
 soon after had another most providential escape: a large 
 bough, concealed by the high grass, had been borne 
 down by the wheel, and suddenly swung back with great 
 force, knocking off my hat, and just grazing my head. 
 Had it struck my forehead, from its size, it would pro- 
 bably have been fatal. At six we halted under some 
 bushes for the night. 
 
 Saturday, 25tJi, — Unable to proceed before ten, the 
 
 Q 2 
 
22S 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 oxen having strayed to a considerable distance in quest 
 of grass, that immediately around us having been re- 
 cently burnt. Throughout this wilderness many of the 
 wild plants are exceedingly gay and beautiful to the eye, 
 but few of them have any scent ; still, notwithstanding 
 my frequent disappointments, I have found myself almost 
 mechanically plucking them as they occurred in the path. 
 It was in consequence of one of these disappointments 
 that the following lines were written : — 
 
 THE DESERT FLOWER. 
 
 Why is that beauteous flower neglected, 
 
 So g-audily arrayed ? 
 Why is it cast aside, rejected. 
 
 To wither, and to fade ? 
 
 Delighted, when I took it up, 
 
 Its fragrance to enjoy ; 
 I found no sweetness in its cup — 
 
 'Twas but a g-ay decoy. 
 
 Why then so richly clad methought — 
 
 So gorgeously attired ? 
 It did not spread its flower for nought, 
 
 Alone to be admired. 
 
 Ah I no — an emblem here I trace 
 Of what the world so prize ; 
 
 A heart subdued — but not by grace — 
 Corruption in disguise. 
 
 Our boasted virtues oft expand 
 Like this fair desert flower ; 
 
 While we deny the bounteous hand 
 That keeps us every hour. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 229 
 
 With Judas we may well inquire, 
 
 ** What need for all this waste 
 The graces we so much admire, 
 
 In selfishness are based. 
 
 Such is morality aloyie, 
 
 A painted scentless thing- ; 
 Attractive — till by grace we're ishown 
 
 Whence real virtues spring- 
 
 The whole of this district bordering the coast must 
 formerly have abounded with palmyra trees, as the stumps, 
 from five to twelve feet in height, are numerous ; but scarcely 
 a single tree is now remaining, the natives having destroyed 
 them either for fuel or for the pith of the branches ; which, 
 together with that of the strelitza, still abundant, are said 
 to have been frequently resorted to by way of subsistence, 
 when traversing these desolate regions. The palmetta, 
 or low shrubby palmyra, grows everywhere in thick 
 clumps; usually about the. stems of the decayed palmyra. 
 Although the strelitza is commonly designated as the wild 
 banana, it differs considerably from it in two remarkable 
 particulars. The flaps of the banana-leaf are pendulous, 
 whereas these open upwards : the branches of the former 
 spring from all sides of the trunk ; these only from oppo- 
 site sides, forming a sort of fan as they spread upwards. 
 
 At noon we crossed the Umthlanga, the fourth river 
 from the Umzimcoolu, from whence the country became 
 open, with fewer trees. Some granite rocks, of a reddish 
 colour, occurred on one point as we descended to the 
 beach. The several rivers which we are now passing are 
 completely impeded in their course by a sandy bar, extend- 
 
2S0 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 iiig across their mouths ; which, during the summer 
 months, when they are full, is frequently burst by the 
 volume of water, and a small passage opened to the sea. 
 At half-past five we crossed the bar of the Umbezan. It 
 was on the left bank of this river that the settlers took up 
 their first station when they abandoned Port Natal, in 
 1833; they remained here for about two months, and 
 then returned to the right bank of the Umzimcoolu ; 
 where the greater part continued for eight or nine months 
 longer. 
 
 This river winds prettily among wooded hills, and is a 
 fine feature from the road. Soon after six we halted. In 
 these tedious journeys, which can only be undertaken at a 
 foot-pace, no time can be spared for much preparation in 
 cooking ; the meat, to be eatable, requires hours. I 
 therefore contented myself with ezinqua (native bread), 
 composed of Indian corn, baked in the wood-ashes, or gruel 
 either of the same meal, or of lupoko. There is, however, 
 a very ready and ingenious way of cooking a chop, well 
 known among the natives, and often practised in these 
 parts. Two or three sticks being pealed and pointed at 
 both ends, the meat, cut into small pieces, is strung upon 
 them as upon a skewer, they are then fixed in the ground, 
 when a few dead boughs and branches kindled below soon 
 do the needful. I have often envied my party this hearty 
 meal, but have never yet succeeded in my endeavour to 
 reduce the leathery substance to any digestible dimensions. 
 The whole apparatus of this characteristic cuisine may be 
 seen— Plate 2, Fig. 1. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 231 
 
 Sunday, 26 tk. 
 " Lord, is it I ? " — (Matthew xxvi. 22.) 
 
 While still in this cold world we dwell, 
 
 By sin beset, by self allured ; 
 While oft our stubborn hearts rebel, 
 
 'Tis well to have our faith assured ; 
 And oft repeat that earnest cry, 
 Lord, tell me — tell me, is it I ? 
 
 How oft our actions seem to say. 
 
 We're still our own — no price was paid : 
 
 Who is the Lord we should obey ? 
 And he who bought us is betrayed ! 
 
 Not Judas only — all may cry, 
 
 Lord, tell me — tell me, is it I ? 
 
 The more a Saviour's love we feel, 
 The deeper ang-uish we shall share ; 
 
 And pray that grace may yet reveal. 
 The hidden sin that's lurking there : 
 
 E'en he on Jesus' breast could cry. 
 
 Lord, tell me — tell me, is it I ? 
 
 The careless walk, the heartless prayer. 
 The cherished wish for earthly gain. 
 
 As much the traitor's heart declare. 
 And prove that we the cross disdain : 
 
 As though we could our Lord deny, 
 
 And ask, in malice — is it I ? 
 
 Lord ! keep this treacherous heart of mine — 
 Alas I too prone from Thee to stray ; 
 
 No strength have I — but grant me thine. 
 Direct and lead me in the way : 
 
 And should I e'er thy name deny. 
 Conviction strike with — " It is L" 
 
 And while a Peter's grief I feel, 
 
 Thy pardon and thy love reveal. 
 
232 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Rain nearly all the morning ; when it cleared up, held 
 the English and Kafir services. 
 
 Monday, 21tli, — Set out at eight. On reaching the 
 heach, observed several rocks containing great quantities 
 of marine shells— chiefly of the muscle kind. On Satur- 
 day morning we met a party of natives from the LTmzim- 
 voobo — their idea of English warfare was curious ; being 
 questioned respecting the news from Kafir-land, they in- 
 formed us that the English army had driven the Amakosa 
 from the open country ; but that they had taken refuge in 
 the woods, and the troops w^ere only waiting until the 
 weather was warmer to beat them out. To-day, we met 
 another party from the same neighbourhood ; who, in 
 reply to my question, where the Amakosa were, said " they 
 were stopping where they had always been so little 
 reliance can be placed upon the reports of these people. 
 After crossing the bars of three rivers, the tide just wash- 
 ing over the crest of the last as we passed, we proceeded 
 along the beach, under a wall of singularly caverned rocks 
 on the right. We were but just in time ; the spring-tides 
 had raised the water in many parts to the very foot of 
 the rocks, rendering the passage somewhat difficult. It 
 is generally supposed that the survivors from the wreck of 
 the Grosvenor East Indiaman, which was lost near this 
 spot, found a temporary shelter in these comfortless 
 caverns ; — a supposition which is not improbable, from 
 the circumstance of their being still designated by the 
 natives as the White men's houses." Notwithstanding 
 the wind and rain, which had continued for some time, we 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 233 
 
 were unable to find any place of shelter until after six — 
 when we turned into a small opening from the beach, 
 formed by a stream ; and after much trouble succeeded in 
 kindling a fire in front of a clump of low bushes, into 
 which, with the aid of an axe, we had hewn out a sort 
 of den for our reception. The shelter, however, was 
 merely imaginary ; for, notwithstanding the canvas which 
 was duly spread over the boughs, the dripping from 
 above was almost worse than the actual rain, and con- 
 tributed its quota to moisten our clothes and bedding — 
 already sufficiently wet. While the fire, which in other 
 circumstances would have proved an essential comfort, 
 became my greatest annoyance ; the violence of the wind 
 driving the smoke full into my face, filling every crevice 
 of our arbour, and almost depriving me of sight. All 
 this was happily disregarded by the natives — who, almost 
 grilling themselves by the embers, slept soundly through 
 the night. In these respects they are perfect salamanders — 
 not unfrequently arranging the burning faggots with 
 their feet. With the same unconcern they will dip their 
 hands into the cooking-vessels, and deliberately feed 
 themselves with the Indian corn while it is still boiling 
 in the water; occasionally shifting the grain from one 
 hand to the other for a few seconds, and then tossing it 
 into their mouths. With this simple fare they are quite 
 satisfied, and will undertake the longest journeys : indeed 
 our own condition was but little better, the meat, which I 
 had only tasted once, being now consumed. But this 
 evening we were most unexpectedly provided with an 
 
 THE UiTED PRESBYTERIAN MISSION UDMRY 
 ,475 fiiverslde Drive New York 27, N. Y. 
 
2J4 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 excellent supper. My servant, Uinpondonibeeni, who 
 was in advance on the beach, had observed a large bird 
 (I conclude an albatros) rising from the surf with a fish in 
 his bill, which he soon dropped on the sand, and com- 
 menced eating ; on his approach, it made an effort to 
 convey it away ; rose with it, but soon dropped it again, 
 and flew off. I need not say that it was soon conveyed to 
 our bush ; and, being about the size of a salmon, and of 
 good flavour, furnished us with a sumptuous meal. Cleared 
 up about midnight. 
 
 Tuesday, 2Sth. — Started soon after seven, and crossed 
 the Amanse-neama (black- water), which was still running 
 out, and in one part nearly out of the oxen's depth. The 
 descent to the Umtendo, which we reached at a quarter 
 past eleven, is considered as the most difficult part of the 
 road from the Colony to Port Natal ; not from the actual 
 declivity, but from the numbers of large irregular rocks, 
 which literally strew the bank. The whole scenery in 
 this neighbourhood has a rugged appearance, and abounds 
 with picturesque features, to • which the winding of the 
 river greatly contributes. Some of the cliffs are luxu- 
 riantly clothed — while others, rising abruptly in barren 
 piles and exhibiting a reddish tint, form a striking 
 contrast. My contemplations of this scene were soon 
 disturbed by a dilemma, which might have occasioned 
 considerable difficulty. The unfortunate cart which had 
 been gradually jolting its way down from rock to rock, 
 was suddenly caught by a projecting angle, and twice 
 completely reversed as it rolled down the bank. The 
 
ZOOLU COUNTKY. 
 
 235 
 
 boxes were disengaged by the violence of the fall ; which 
 happily was checked by the stem of a tree, or the whole 
 would probably have been broken to pieces and precipi- 
 tated into the river. Happily, nothing of any material 
 consequence was injured ; and in the course of an hour 
 everything was again in its place, and we were out- 
 spanned near a stream of good water on the opposite side. 
 Although the advantage over a waggon is greatly in our 
 favour as regards speed, the weights were necessarily 
 placed too high in our present vehicle for stability ; so that 
 the probabilities of an overturn, especially when dragging 
 one of the wheels, as in the present instance, is consider- 
 ably increased. 
 
 The oxen having strayed, we were unable to proceed 
 before half-past three ; when, coming soon after to a rocky 
 stream, I resumed my seat, hoping to have passed dryshod — 
 in this, however, I was disappointed. The ledge in one 
 part is very narrow — the water middle-deep on both sides ; 
 just as we came to the most critical spot the oxen bore 
 too much to the left, and again overset the cart into the 
 water, giving me a cold bath — for which I was by no means 
 prepared, the day being far from warm. I was alone on 
 the cart, and most providentially escaped without even a 
 bruise ; although it was completely reversed, and fell close 
 to me. Not only was I thoroughly soaked, but every 
 article in my box was dripping wet, — not a dry thread 
 had any of us to put on. It was now the employment of 
 all hands to right the vehicle ; which was at length effected, 
 and drawn out by the oxen, without a fracture. Nothing 
 
236^ JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 remained but to make the best of our misfortune ; a most 
 inviting glen was near — and thither in less than half an 
 liour fires were blazing, and many of the wet things 
 spread around them to dry. The situation of our rock- 
 habitation was one of no common character — a secluded 
 glen, tufted with trees and overhung by a rocky precipice, 
 with a pretty cascade falling from an opposite cliff. The 
 stream which occupies this ravine falls again in its passage 
 to the sea over a ledge of rocks, just below the spot where 
 the accident occurred. Wet as I was, I could not resist 
 drying some paper, and making a hasty sketch of our 
 bivouac* before the sun became too low. 
 
 Wednesdmj ^^tJi. — As the waggon-road from the Umsi- 
 caba strikes more inland, leading to no inhabitants until 
 within a few miles of the Umzimvoobo, I took my leave 
 of it this morning ; and, with my interpreter and two of 
 the people, resolved to follow the footpath nearer the sea, 
 which passes through a village, at about a day's journey 
 from hence. At a quarter past eight we commenced our 
 walk, and soon after ten crossed the bar of the Umsicaba, 
 which was running out by a very narrow channel. 
 Although navigation is impeded by the banks which form 
 across the mouths of by far the greater number of rivers 
 which discharge themselves upon this coast, it appears to 
 be wisely ordained for the purpose of irrigating the 
 interior ; or, otherwise, during the winter or dry season, 
 many of them would become mere brooks, while others 
 would entirely cease to flow. Occasions have occurred 
 
 ^ Thics spot has been iiamc<l Rock-refuge. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 237 
 
 when they have been let out by cutting a channel through 
 the bar— sometimes to obtain a waggon passage higher up ; 
 and in one or two instances in order to shoot the hippo- 
 potami in the bed : on these occasions the stream has 
 been rapidly drained, and in a few hours become very 
 shallow. The country through which we were now pass- 
 ing is very open and rocky. Rested for half an hour on 
 the bank of a rocky stream, and shared with the people 
 half a loaf of ezinqua — the only remaining provisions we 
 had with us. As we approached the village the appear- 
 ance of the country was greatly improved — abrupt hills 
 appeared before us, clothed to their summit with large 
 trees, while many beautiful ravines opened to our right. 
 Skirting one of these roads we reached Umnooka's, a 
 village almost surrounded with trees, at twenty minutes 
 past five — having walked about twenty-six miles. The 
 people are poor, and the huts miserable (only six in 
 number) ; still it was the abode of man — and circum- 
 stanced as we were a cheering sight. On entering my 
 hut, I was rather discomposed at discovering in one 
 corner a flourishing colony of young puppies ; but not 
 thinking it quite civil unceremoniously to eject them, I 
 inquired of Umnooka whether they were to remain there 
 all night ; his reply, " they were born there," was still 
 more unsatisfactory, and pleaded so strongly in their 
 behalf, that I thought I could not do less than tolerate 
 my troublesome companions. Some boiled sweet potatoes 
 was all I could procure that was eatable — every other 
 attempt to satisfy my hunger only increased my dis- 
 
23S 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 comfort. A bowl, black with the embers, was indeed 
 placed in my hands in the dark, containing Kafir-corn 
 gruel ; but the grain having been taken from the usual 
 deposit under the cattle-fold, was too acid to be palatable ; 
 and on putting it down to rekindle the fire, for the benefit 
 of the light it might emit, the whole contents from the 
 unevenness of the floor were instantly transferred to my 
 mat and bedding. 1 should not have been so minute, but 
 to show how often in this country anticipations of comfort 
 are purely imaginative. 
 
 Thursday, 30^/^.— Set out at seven — fine forest scenery 
 — crossed the Umzimclambu at half past ten — having 
 approached it through a wood of very handsome trees, 
 chiefly umzani, and what are known in the colony by the 
 name of sneeze and iron- wood ; many of these have grown 
 to a great height, and are very straight. Stopped at a 
 village for a quarter of an hour, and procured some very 
 indifferent amas, for which however a bazella (present) was 
 asked. Having been so long accustomed to the close- 
 shorn heads of the Zoolus, the ochred mobs -of these 
 women, and the nest-like perruques of the men, formed a 
 striking contrast, and at first quite attracted my notice. 
 At half-past eleven stopped for an hour at another small 
 village called Amaboya, inhabited chiefly by Kali, from 
 Port Natal ; the difference was striking — here no bazella 
 was asked, although we were supplied both with amas and 
 oiitchualla, as also a few sweet potatoes ; and the Numzana 
 walked with us some distance to point out the road. 
 
 Traversing another road, we crossed the Umtafoofe, and 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 soon after reached one of Mr. Fynn's villages, where 
 I accepted a horse, kindly offered me by his brother, and, 
 procuring two additional baggage-bearers, again set for- 
 ward. Being too late to reach the ford on the Umzim- 
 boovo, we stopped at a quarter to six at a village on the 
 road, where huts were provided and the people very civil. 
 The Amaponda houses, though by no means so neat, are 
 generally larger than those of the Zoolus, and being daubed 
 in the inside are much warmer ; but their chief advantage 
 is in the height of the doorway, through which it is only 
 necessary to stoop low, but never actually to crawl. 
 
 Our route this day was through a very broken country, 
 affording some fine views of the sea combined with forest 
 scenery. The foliage of many of the largest trees is of a 
 deep glossy green, which is beautifully relieved by the 
 light colour of the stems and branches. On approaching 
 the Umzimboovo, the country becomes more populous ; 
 and the path, which is carried over the hills which margin 
 its course, affords at every turn some splendid views of its 
 frequent windings among steep and rugged mountains. 
 
 Friday, 31*/. — Commenced our journey at seven. Soon 
 after crossed the river, and at a quarter-past ten reached a 
 hut, at present occupied by Mr. Fynn, about a mile from 
 Faku's Great Place ; where we remained a short time to 
 breakfast. On reaching the Gumkulu (Great Place), Faku 
 was observed seated in the open air, surrounded by thir- 
 teen or fourteen of his people. At first he did not recog- 
 nise me, but soon inquired if I were not Umfundees 
 (teacher), who had passed through some time before. 
 
240 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 On hearing that I was now on my way to the colony, 
 and intended remaining a few days at the Missionary 
 Station, he said that he should come over and pay me a 
 visit. He had been in ill health for some time, and was 
 still suffering from inflammation in the eyes, which had 
 altered his appearance so much, that I should scarcely 
 have known him again. Taking my leave, I left my 
 interpreter to follow, and pushed on to Bunting, nine 
 miles beyond, where I arrived at one, much to the surprise 
 of Mr. and Mrs. Tain ton, who received me with great 
 hospitality. Mr. Satchell, it appeared, had left the Station, 
 and proceeded to the colony, in company with the mis- 
 sionary families, from Morley and Clarkebery, some months 
 previously — a recommendation for their return having 
 been received from the Governor, and an escort despatched 
 to Clarkebery, where they had assembled for the purpose. 
 Mr. Tainton, the assistant, was likewise preparing to 
 accompany them with his family.; but on the day follow- 
 ing the notification of the despatch, Faku, with a large 
 assembly of people, visited the Station, for the express 
 purpose, as it appeared, of inducing Mr. Tainton to 
 remain. His usual salutation of offering the hand was 
 now refused ; and observing the waggons packed for the 
 journey, he significantly asked, " What are those things 
 I see in the waggons ? Why are you going to leave me ? 
 Am I an enemy ?" On being satisfied on these points, he 
 cordially gave him his hand, saying, " You must not leave 
 me — I must have some person to speak for me." Faku 
 then appealed to the people, many of whom came forward 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 241 
 
 and implored them to stay, saying, that ever since they 
 had been among them they had lived in friendship — they 
 had never injured them, nor taken their cattle — why then 
 should they nov^ leave them at the very time when they 
 might be brought into difficulties by an army of their 
 own countrymen ? A proposal was then made, that their 
 cattle should remain in the country as a pledge for their 
 return. This, however, was not satisfactory; and, finding 
 that it was the unanimous wish of both chiefs and people 
 that they should not proceed, Mr. and Mrs. Tainton at 
 length resolved to remain : and I cannot but regard it as 
 a very providential circumstance that they were endued 
 with strength of mind and Christian courage to maintain 
 their post, as nothing has contributed more to the restora- 
 tion of confidence among the natives, and the continuance 
 of the high estimation in which the members of this 
 Missionary institution have generally been regarded. 
 
 Saturdmj, August 1st, — From information which has 
 recently transpired, it appears that for some time previous 
 to the breaking out of the Kafir war, overtures had been 
 made to Faku, by Hinza, for assistance, accompanied by a 
 present, which was not accepted ; and in return a bull was 
 sent to Hinza, in the usual symbolical style, well under- 
 stood in those countries, implying a consciousness of 
 power and an independence of action. The folio wing- 
 less enigmatical message is also said to have accompanied 
 the animal : — " When attacked by Charka, you refused to 
 assist me — how then can you now expect that I should 
 assist you ? " 
 
 R 
 
242 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Faku has evinced throughout the most friendly dispo- 
 sition ; and when Mr. Satchell quitted the station he 
 sent by him an elephant's tooth, to be presented to his 
 Excellency, in order to assure him that he only detained 
 Mr. Tainton from a friendly motive. There is every 
 reason to believe that the continuance of the Missionary, 
 both at Morley and Clarkebury, would have been very 
 beneficial; not merely in preventing depredations, but in 
 allaying the wounded feelings of many of the chiefs w^ha 
 have been falsely accused of duplicity, and a secret intention 
 to assist the Amakosa. For some time, even Faku himself 
 was represented as unfriendly to the English ; and there 
 is every reason to believe, that had not Mr. Tainton 
 remained, and Mr. Fynn* arrived, he would have removed 
 to the opposite of the Umzimvoobo, under the apprehen- 
 sion that he was considered as an accomplice, and should 
 share the fate of the hostile Amakosa, 
 
 It had indeed been his intention, prior to these troubles, 
 to have spread his people more in that direction ; but this 
 plan has for the present been suspended, lest it should 
 be supposed that he was thereby making room for the 
 fugitive Amakosa, and at the same time preparing an 
 asylum for himself, in the event of any open rupture with 
 the colony. 
 
 In the month of May last, an instance occurred which 
 at once shows the readiness of Faku to oblige the English. 
 
 * He was sent by his Excellency Sir Benjamin D'Urban to assure 
 the Amaponda chief of his friendship, and to request he would pre- 
 vent the Amakosa from entering his territory. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 243 
 
 A party of Chungi's people, belonging to Hinza's tribe, 
 had crossed the Umtata, and were advancing on the 
 immediate line of his frontier. On the first rumour of 
 their proceedings, he assembled his army ; and, on the 
 16th, placing himself at their head, advanced as far as 
 Bunting, on his way to the frontier. Scarcely had he 
 appeared, when despatches from his Excellency, Sir Ben- 
 jamin D'Urban, arrived, informing him of the submission 
 of Hinza's tribe ; and requesting him to lay down his 
 shield till further orders. Faku immediately signified 
 his intention, in these words : — " We came out according 
 to the Great Man's word, and by his word we will return." 
 And in the course of a very few hours the whole body, 
 amounting to about eight thousand men, dispersed, and 
 quietly returned to their homes. 
 
 About three weeks ago, a party of Amaponda moved 
 in the same direction — but chiefly, as I understand, to 
 chastise an old enemy, Umyaki. Notice had previously 
 been sent to apprise Verdana, chief of the Amatembu, 
 of their design, and to point out the route they should 
 take ; notwithstanding which, a party of the Amaponda 
 force missed their way, and traversed a portion of the Ama- 
 tembu country, where no intimation had been received of 
 their approach, and some skirmishing in consequence 
 took place. Fakii's people showed great forbearance, 
 warning them not to approach ; and telling their oppo- 
 nents, who eventually ran away, that they had received 
 strict orders not to make any holes in their shields. This 
 circumstance, added to a clandestine attack by some of 
 
 R 2 
 
244 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Mr. Fynn's people, unknown to him, has greatly irritated 
 the Amatembu, insomuch that all intercourse was for 
 some time suspended. In my situation this state of 
 things is particularly unfortunate ; as it is by passing 
 through the country of the Amatembu, who are still said 
 to be friendly to the English, that I hope to make my 
 way to the camp near the Kei river. I am not, however, 
 without the hope of procuring guides to conduct me by 
 that route. 
 
 Sunday, ^nd, 
 
 " Follow thou me." — (John xxi. 22.) 
 
 Hear, my soul ! thy Saviour say, 
 
 " Follow me'* — my footsteps trace ; 
 I will guide thee in the way, 
 Support thee by my power and grace. 
 
 There 's not a vale with tears bedewed, 
 
 Nor rugged path but I have trod ; 
 Thy fiercest foes I have subdued, 
 
 And will support thee with my rod. 
 
 Lean on my strength, and be secure. 
 
 Nor trust thy erring sight ; 
 Though other paths may sense allure, 
 
 This one alone is right. 
 
 My ways are ways of pleasantness. 
 
 And all my paths are peace ; 
 They lead to realms of light and bliss. 
 
 Where joys shall never cease. 
 
 Regard not then thy worldly stuff, — 
 
 Be willing all to leave ; 
 In me the poorest have enough, 
 
 Who on my name believe. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 Lord I help me to obey thy call, 
 
 The cloud and pillar show ; 
 Incline my heart to yield Thee all — 
 
 No other will to know. 
 
 So shall my path from snares be free ; 
 
 And when on Jordan's bank I stand, 
 My soul shall still hold fast on Thee, 
 
 And thou wilt bear me safe to land. 
 
 Conducted the Kafir services, morning and evening, at 
 Mr. Tainton's request ; the congregation v^as considerably- 
 reduced, as many of the natives had accompanied Mr. 
 Satchell. 
 
 Monday, Srd, — Mr. Tainton related a pleasing anec- 
 dote of Faku, which indicates at once the kindness of 
 his disposition. A man having been sentenced to forfeit 
 a cow for having stolen an assegai, Faku immediately- 
 inquired whether the cow gave milk, and if he had other 
 cattle ; being informed that he had only this one cow 
 vrhich supphed his family, he gave orders that it should 
 be returned for the support of his children until the milk 
 failed, when the fine was to be exacted. Having suc- 
 ceeded in procuring guides through the Amatembu 
 country, I purpose setting out to-morrow; and this 
 morning rode to the Giimkiilu (Great Place) in order to 
 take my leave of Faku. As usual, he was stretched at 
 full length on the ground, surrounded by several of his 
 great men, sitting or lying near him. Being informed 
 of my intentions, and asked if he had any message to 
 the Great Chief of the Abalungu (white people — literally 
 people who do right) ; he dictated the following, which 
 
246 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 I wrote from his mouth : — " When the army advances, 
 I wish that a messenger may be sent on to Ferdana's, 
 to inform me of their approach, in order that I may go 
 out and meet them with my people. We are of one 
 house with the Abalungus. Your children are dying 
 with the sun — we have no milk ; and wish to have cattle, 
 as we have not had any since Charka took them from us." 
 After finishing this important epistle, Faku went to his 
 hut and brought a basket of beer ; of which, according to 
 the custom of the country, he first partook, and then 
 handed to me. By several of the party some ludicrous 
 remarks were made upon my horse, which was standing 
 near ; and one man observed — " How much better it would 
 look if it had horns like an eland ! " They have no 
 horses among them ; nor do they evince any desire to 
 obtain them. The whole disposable force which Faku 
 could bring into the field is, I understand, from twelve 
 to fifteen thousand ; though, on ordinary occasions, he 
 seldom orders out more than seven or eight thousand. 
 
 Faku is at all times a man of few words ; but when 
 speaking to-day on the subject of incomo (cattle), at all 
 times the most interesting to a native, he became quite 
 animated. On my return to Bunting, I found that the 
 cart had arrived, having had another upset on the day 
 we left it. My servant, Umpondombeeni, was all admi- 
 ration at the novelties of this station. He was greatly 
 amused at the pigs, having only once seen one before ; 
 but the glass in the window- sashes excited his greatest 
 surprise, and it was some time before he could convince 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 247 
 
 himself that there was any thing to prevent his hand from 
 passing through. 
 
 Tuesdmjy ^th, — Took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, 
 who kindly supplied me with provisions for the way. 
 Started at about ten, with three men from the station 
 carrying my baggage— my interpreter and myself being 
 mounted upon two miserable, sore-backed horses, which 
 had been purchased by Mr. Fynn for government use. 
 We were soon out of the inhabited part of Faku's 
 territory ; but it is still as mountainous, and at this season 
 was completely dried up, with scarcely a tree to be seen 
 for miles. In the neighbourhood of Umtagaichi and 
 Umdoombi rivers, which crossed our route, we passed 
 the sites of several villages formerly belonging to Umyaki 
 — he was driven hence by Faku about eighteen months 
 ago, since which period he has been living with his whole 
 tribe much nearer to the coast. The cause of his expul- 
 sion was in revenge for an attempt to bewitch, as it is 
 tenned, the cattle of Faku. Umyaki had despatched 
 two men to Faku, for the alleged purpose of procuring 
 beads, but they were at the same time accompanied by 
 an Egeerha, or Bewitcher, who brought away some of 
 the manure from the cattle-fold at the Great Place, with 
 an intention on his reaching home to procure by this 
 means the infliction of some fatal disease upon the cattle 
 of Fakii. From the chief downward, it is quite distressing 
 to observe how all succumb to this subtle artifice of the 
 powers of darkness, which has not only reduced the 
 whole nation to a species of mental bondage, but has 
 
248 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 ])robably occasioned more blood to flow than any of the 
 numerous feuds that have been known to exist. 
 
 My watch having within these few days become 
 unserviceable, I am now obliged to calculate in the 
 native manner, by observing the position of the sun, 
 and by this reckoning I consider that we reached the 
 Umtata about a quarter-past six. The bed of this river 
 is strewed with detached slabs of rock ; and as it was 
 nearly dusk when we crossed, my horse, losing his 
 footing, fell, and ejected me up to my knees in the stream. 
 We had now entered the Amatembu country, and were 
 not long in discovering, at a distance, some straggling 
 houses; but it was almost too dark to distinguish them 
 among the bushes. At this time we were threading a 
 low jungle by a winding path, directed only by one lad, 
 who had out-walked the other guides, w^hen suddenly 
 we were surrounded by several men, approaching from 
 (Jifferent directions, and all well armed with assegais. 
 The guide, alarmed at their appearance, ran off and 
 concealed himself behind one of the bushes ; while, 
 conscious of the danger, I immediately reined up, in 
 order to answer their inquiries as to who we were — where 
 we came from — where we were going — where Tpai was 
 —what Fakii was about — and many other similar ques- 
 tions. Being somewhat satisfied with my replies, they 
 acknowledged that they had taken us for spies. On 
 being told that I was a teacher, one of them observed 
 that I should tell the people to be still, and not to be 
 always making war. We were then allowed to proceed 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 249 
 
 without further detention ; but there is not the slightest 
 doubt that they would have commenced throwing their 
 assegais had not I pulled up at the moment they accosted 
 us. We soon reached the spot where a chief named 
 Cosiana formerly lived ; but being too dark to search for 
 his new abode on the other side of the mountain, and, 
 moreover, hearing that he was absent, we returned to 
 a Fingo hut, which we had passed near the road — a 
 wretched, dirty hovel, but where we were hospitably 
 received. It was here we first heard the fate of the two 
 men who had been sent from Bunting with letters for 
 the camp, about a month ago. By an account brought 
 through a Fingo, they are said to have been murdered 
 by a party of Chiingi's people on their way, and not far 
 from the ford on the Kei river. 
 
 Wednesday, 5th. — Wishing to travel light, in order to 
 reach Ferdana's Great Place in good time this evening, I 
 left the greater part of the baggage in charge of the 
 guides, directing them to proceed with it to a chief named 
 Kabi, about half the distance, and remain there until they 
 heard from me. 
 
 We proceeded about half-past seven, the road passing 
 over elevated downs ; the country less broken ; in many 
 parts rocky, and generally destitute of trees. Stopped 
 about eleven, and procured a little amas, but not until 
 all their questions had been satisfied. So susi)icious are 
 these people, probably from habit, being continually em- 
 broiled with their neighbours, that in no instance could 
 we obtain the commonest information respecting the 
 
250 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 road, until the usual string of questions had been duly 
 put and replied to. The women evinced so much 
 alarm at our appearance, that, on perceiving us at a 
 distance, they would hasten along in another direction ; 
 and if, as it sometimes happened, we surprised them, 
 while procuring water from the streams, they would 
 instantly leave their calabashes and bowls, and make 
 hastily off. Passed through several very large flights of 
 locusts, which appeared to be committing great ravages 
 among the little grass that remained. Crossed the Bashee, 
 another very rocky river, at about four ; and in half an 
 hour more reached Ferdana's village — a collection of 
 miserable looking huts (twelve in number), dotted about 
 without any appearance of regularity. Neither these, 
 nor the Amaponda towns, have any exterior fences ; the 
 cattle-folds are small, and not always in the centre ; and the 
 houses, both within and without, are sadly defective in 
 point of cleanliness. They have, however, the advantage 
 of an interior skreen about the door-way ; which prevents 
 the wind from driving the smoke about, and contributes 
 to make them warm, though at the expense of light. 
 Here, again, we were suspected. Ferdana, I was told, was 
 on a hunting expedition, in which he had taken all his 
 horses for the pursuit of elands. The sun had long set 
 behind the hills before the usual catechising had ended ; 
 and, seated upon my saddle in front of Ferdana's hut, I 
 patiently awaited its termination. Not a house was offered, 
 nor food of any kind given. At first they proposed that 
 I should go on to the Missionary Station, not far distant ; 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 ^51 
 
 and afterwards to another village. Suspecting that they 
 were (as is not unfrequently the case with the people) 
 deceiving me as to the movements of their chief, I told 
 them that I had come to see Ferdana ; and that as this 
 was his place, it was not my intention to go further ; 
 adding, that hitherto I had always understood they 
 were hospitable to strangers. After waiting some little 
 time longer, a woman of the party observed, that the 
 Incosi-case ought to be spoken to about furnishing a hut. 
 In our situation a hint of this kind was not to be lost : 
 my interpreter accordingly went on this errand ; and we 
 were shortly after received into a hut belonging to the 
 widow of the late chief Gubinuka, or Vosani, as he is 
 frequently called. Baadi (the Incosi-case) was his mother ; 
 and it is her grandson, still a minor under the guardian- 
 ship of Ferdana, who will eventually succeed to the 
 government. The hut in which we were now lodged was 
 sufficiently capacious, but filthy in the extreme ; and by 
 the occasional flickering of the fire, when the smoke had 
 sufficiently dispersed, I perceived the good woman who 
 had long been preparing a mess of tripe, first stirring it 
 about with her hand, and then portioning it out in the same 
 unceremonious manner to the company, including a tribe 
 of hungry children, with two or three men who dropped in 
 at this critical time, and employed their assegais to divide 
 the toughest parts. Notwithstanding my various com- 
 panions, I was sufficiently tired to sleep comfortably upon 
 a floor, which, for the peculiar unevenness of its surface, 
 might have served for a model of the maritime Alps. 
 
252 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Thursdmj, Qth, — So dim was the fire, and so dense the 
 smoke, that it was not until day-light had thoroughly 
 penetrated the crevices of our abode, that I was fully aware 
 of the different orders of mammalia that it contained. 
 Besides ourselves, the two women and five children, there 
 were no less than nine calves, and one or two dogs ! Al- 
 though messengers have been sent to apprise Ferdana of 
 my arrival, it is quite uncertain where he may be found ; 
 and as I have no great inclination to renew my acquaint- 
 ance with the calves, I considered it desirable, if possible, 
 to find an asylum in some of the Missionary buildings at 
 Clarkebury, about two miles and a half distant. The 
 horses were accordingly saddled, and we soon reached the 
 Mission-house, which had been abandoned about three 
 months. It had, indeed, a most desolate appearance : with 
 the exception of one girl, who had formerly attended on 
 Mrs. Davis, all the natives belonging to the station had 
 left with the missionary family. A few of the neighbour- 
 ing huts, however, were occupied by some people sent by 
 Ferdana to take charge of the property. This trust they 
 had faithfully performed : thorn-bushes were placed under 
 all the windows to prevent their being opened, and we 
 found every thing perfectly secure. Circumstanced as I 
 was, there was no alternative but to draw the nail which 
 secured a window from without, and enter by that means ; 
 no person having been entrusted with any of the keys, 
 which I conclude were taken away. Here, to my great 
 relief, two sacks of Kafir corn were found ; several uten- 
 sils for cooking ; and a few chickens. Had it been other- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 253 
 
 wise we should have fared but poorly ; milk was not to 
 be procured among the natives ; and their corn, frorn 
 having been kept underground, [had now acquired so un- 
 pleasant a flavour, that the cravings of hunger alone would 
 have induced me to eat it : no other could be procured 
 from them at this season of the year, even had I the 
 means of purchasing, which was not the case. 
 
 It was exceedingly painful to me to be thus under the 
 necessity of breaking open the Mission-house ; but I felt 
 convinced that, had its inmates been here, they would 
 gladly have afforded me every comfort in their power. 
 My principal regret is to find it untenanted ; and the work 
 of Christian instruction suspended. Our neighbours are 
 by no means ceremonious : while quietly writing this morn- 
 ing, a man introduced himself at the window, — which, by 
 the by, was the only entrance at that time, — with an 
 assegai in his hand. Until the return of my interpreter, 
 I thought it better to take no notice of him ; when he in- 
 troduced himself as the chief of the party placed in charge 
 of the Mission premises. He had come, he said, to hear 
 the news, having been absent when I arrived ; and was 
 only just returned from a nightly excursion, in order if 
 possible to trace the foot-prints of enemies up the river. 
 Tpai's people on one side, and the Amamaia (a revolted 
 tribe of Amatembu) on the other, who are perpetually 
 stealing their cattle, keep them in a constant state of 
 alarm ; insomuch that all the herds are withdrawn to a 
 considerable distance from the frontier ; and the miserable 
 inhabitants of those districts are never secure for a day. 
 
254 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 On the decline of the moon (now full), it is said that Tpai 
 meditates another attack, which keeps them on the alert. 
 That Ferdana should absent himself, under such circum- 
 stances, appears to me incomprehensible, unless his hunt- 
 ing excursion should prove but another name for a ma- 
 rauding expedition, which is far more probable, particu- 
 larly as he was not long since attacked by a mounted 
 party of Abasootu, in the direction he is now said to have 
 taken. In this affair he had decidedly the advantage, 
 killing several of the assailants, and capturing ten of 
 their horses. I am, notwithstanding, inclined to suspect 
 that he is still here concealed among his people. 
 
 SOLITUDE SWEETENED. 
 
 And is this solitude — to be alone ? 
 
 No heart to soothe — no face to cheer ! 
 Is there not One to whom we're known, 
 
 Though yet unseen, still always near? 
 Ah, yes — a Friend the Christian knows, 
 
 Who follows him where'er he goes ! 
 
 Dear Lord I thy people can attest 
 
 Thou art a precious Friend indeed ! 
 Possessing Thee, they must be blessed ; 
 
 For thou canst give them all they need I 
 Sweet solace of my loneliest hour, 
 Quicken my heart to feel thy power. 
 
 With such a Friend for ever nigh, 
 
 Bereft we cannot — dare not feel I 
 Jesus will every loss supply^ 
 
 And all His wonted love reveal. 
 Let me but feel that Thou art near. 
 And solitude will then be dear I 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 255 
 
 Saturday 8^7^.— Having understood fromGugu, the petty 
 chief in charge of the station, that in the absence of Fer- 
 dana, the Incosi-case frequently issued orders under the 
 direction of the Amapakati (councillors), I walked over to 
 the village this morning in the hope at least of forward- 
 ing a letter to the English camp. She informed me that 
 the messengers despatched for Ferdana had returned last 
 night, without having discovered any trace of his route ; 
 and, as the councillors were all with him, nothing could in 
 consequence be done ; that the people were unwilling to 
 venture their lives among the Amakosa, who were lurking 
 about in small parties to cut off all intercourse from this 
 quarter. On inquiring whether she would give her 
 sanction, should I find a person willing to go, she assented, 
 saying, that probably I might procure one, but she was 
 quite certain no one would go for her. As Gugu had 
 previously assured me, that a native acquainted with the 
 country might proceed without much difficulty, I now 
 thought there was some prospect of succeeding, and im- 
 mediately returned to consult with him. Not one of 
 them, however, could be induced to move in the matter, 
 notwithstanding a tempting offer of cattle was made. 
 They had no idea of volunteering in this service — if ordered 
 by their chief, they said, they must go, but without such 
 a command they would not undertake it. Had not Gugu 
 represented the undertaking as one of no great hazard 
 in the way that they would manage it, I should not have 
 urged the point, making it a rule never to require of others 
 what I would not, if necessary, undertake myself. To 
 
256 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 attempt without guides my original plan, of riding 
 through during the night, would have been madness, 
 especially as it required excellent horses, and ours were 
 none of the fleetest. Could fresh horses have been pro- 
 cured here, with a mounted guide, it was my intention to 
 have made the attempt ; but the reported absence of Fer- 
 dana, and the decided disinclination to forward my wishes 
 on the part of all here, obliged me to give up the plan. 
 My next and only resort was to procure guides to escort 
 me through the mountain passes to the westward, in 
 which direction it would be only needful to traverse a very 
 small tract of country, recently occupied by a part of 
 Hinza's tribe, and by which route I should probably reach 
 the colonial frontier in the course of a very few days. 
 This, however, was also declined ; and thus foiled in all 
 my plans for pushing forward, but two courses seemed to 
 offer — either to wait here an indefinite time for Ferdana, 
 or to return to Bunting, with the hope of inducing Faku 
 to furnish me with a sufficient force to make my way 
 through the hostile tribes. On many accounts the latter 
 appeared to be the most judicious ; and I accordingly 
 resolved to commence my return early on Monday morn- 
 ing. The wind from south-west to east has been very 
 high for these three days past, and the weather quite cold, 
 with a sharp frost whitening the ground every morning. 
 The soil, which is clay, and generally bare of trees, may 
 contribute to lower the temperature ; at present every 
 thing is so dried up, that scarcely any grass is remaining. 
 This part of the country, notwithstanding its present arid 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 257 
 
 appearance, is very populous, several villages being visible 
 from the windows of the Mission-house. In no other 
 respect does it appear an eligible spot for such an estab- 
 lishment, particularly as the water is not convenient ; 
 that procured from the neighbouring well being fre- 
 quently much discoloured after rain. 
 
 Sunday^ ^th, 
 
 *' Be of good courage and He shall strengthen your heart, all ye that 
 hope in the Lord." — (Psalm xxxi. 24.) 
 
 Hence ye faithless fears away — 
 
 Is not Jesus strong to aid ? 
 He will be thy shield and stay, 
 
 All thy cares on Him be laid. 
 
 Has He not in love declared, 
 
 " As thy day thy strength shall be ? " 
 Grace sufficient is prepared 
 
 For all who to His succour flee. 
 
 Ah, yes, dear Lord I though all should fail, 
 To Thee my helpless soul would cleave ; 
 
 Thy promises shall still prevail — 
 Thy people Thou wilt never leave ! 
 
 Held in the hollow of Thine hand. 
 
 How oft the shafts of death have sped ; 
 
 Thou canst my fiercest foe withstand. 
 And shelter my defenceless head I 
 
 Thou art my hope — whate'er betide 
 
 My breath, my substance — all is Thine ! 
 
 Let but Thy name be glorified, 
 And life itself I could resign. 
 
 S 
 
258 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Oh I if Thy presence g-o before, 
 
 Then every path is smooth and plain ; 
 
 And though it lead to Jordan's shore, 
 'Twill end in everlasting gain I 
 
 What rapture then to join that band, 
 
 Through fires of tribulation brought ! 
 For ever round the throne to stand, 
 
 Adoring Him our ransom bought I 
 
 No natives could be collected in the morning, but in 
 the afternoon a few attended the Kafir service in the 
 Mission-house. 
 
 Monday^ 10th, — In this weak and suspicious country, 
 I thought it prudent to advise the good people at the 
 Giimkulu of my intended return, and accordingly rode 
 round by their huts, but either by design or otherwise 
 the Incosi-case was not forthcoming. After a little demur, 
 Cheecha, an old man (reported to be a councillor) came up, 
 and to him I delivered a message to Ferdana, with a 
 request that on his return he would either furnish rne 
 with a mounted guide to the Kei, or forward a letter to 
 the English camp on the other side. The message he 
 said should be delivered ; but he was quite sure that Fer- 
 dana would do neither the one nor the other, as he was 
 daily expecting an attack from the people of Chungi ; the 
 Amamaias, who are in league with them, having cap- 
 tured two herds of cattle but the day before. They 
 appear never to have forgiven the loss of some cattle taken 
 from them by the Mahallas (the Amatembu tribe among 
 whom we now are), as the escort were conveying the 
 Missionaries from Clarkebury across their territory, about 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 259 
 
 three months since ; and it is no doubt in order to avenge 
 this loss that they are now combining against them. 
 
 As an evidence of the insincerity of these people, no 
 less than seventeen or eighteen horses were observed near 
 Ferdana's cattle-place, on the banks of the Bashee, as we 
 passed ; which at once confirmed my opinion that the 
 whole story of his absence was a deceit. On reaching 
 Kabi's, to my great disppointment, I found that the 
 guides had returned home the day before. It had been 
 my endeavour while at Clarkebury to communicate with 
 them, being desirous that they should join me there ; but 
 notwithstanding all my efforts, with the promise of beads, 
 no person could be induced to undertake this errand. To 
 procure a guide on the route was out of the question ; for 
 so uncivil were they at every village we passed, that 
 nothing, not even a drop of milk, could be procured. On 
 leaving the inhabited district, I had no other resource than 
 to direct my course by the sun. After a tedious ride, partly 
 in the dark, we reached the Umtata, and rested on the 
 bank for the night ; but, although the cold was severe, I 
 was unwilling to indulge in a fire, lest it might attract 
 notice and bring down an armed party to disturb our 
 repose. For some time I endeavoured to sleep ; but at 
 length, almost benumbed, determined at all risks to 
 kindle a blaze. Observing a deep fissure where the flame 
 might be sufficiently concealed, we repaired thither ; but, 
 although a tolerable fire was kept up throughout the 
 remainder of the night, it was but little sleep that I could 
 obtain, the air being keen and the ground covered with 
 frost. s 2 
 
260 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Tuesday, — Finding that I had made the river at 
 a point considerably higher than the usual ford, I this 
 morning shaped a more easterly course ; the whole 
 country to the Umgazi being a complete wilderness 
 without an inhabitant. A small bundle of Kafir-corn 
 brought from Clarkebury, with the expectation of having 
 it ground and boiled on the road, was now, for want of 
 this necessary preparation, given to the jaded horses ; one 
 of whom was so thoroughly knocked up, that in order to 
 urge him on at all it became necessary to secure the bridle 
 to my saddle and literally take it in tow, my interpreter 
 occasionally dismounting and flogging it on. The locusts 
 were so numerous in some parts of our journey this day, 
 that the ground could scarcely be seen, and numbers were 
 crushed under the horses' feet. They are smaller than 
 those generally seen in the Zoolu country, and have not 
 the pink colour on the wing. Delayed by our sorry 
 beasts, we did not reach Bunting till after sunset ; and 
 although much disappointed at the necessity of retracing 
 my steps, I felt thankful at having again reached such 
 comfortable quarters, especially as we had tasted nothing 
 since eight o'clock on the previous morning, when we 
 had breakfasted on Kafir-corn gruel. It was a provi- 
 dential circumstance that I did not partake of the Kafir- 
 corn in its raw state, as I had more than once intended 
 in the course of this day's ride ; having since learned 
 that in all probability it would have been fatal, as it has 
 the property of swelling, and even when not sufficiently 
 boiled is very prejudicial : many instances, I am told, 
 
200LU COUNTRY. 
 
 261 
 
 have occuiTed when natives, exhausted by hunger on 
 their warlike expeditions, have died in a few hours after 
 eating a quantity of it improperly cooked. Found the 
 Station in much concern respecting the melancholy tidings 
 brought by the guides who arrived last night. Both of 
 the messengers who had been killed on their way to the 
 camp were much respected ; and one of them, David, is 
 said to have been under deep religious impressions. 
 Their wives and families were in great grief. Previous 
 to starting, David had imprudently borrowed the panther- 
 skin ingoobo (cloak) which had been given to the last 
 messenger on his reaching the British head-quarters ; and 
 it is said that this was recognised by a party of Amakosa 
 as having formerly belonged to one of their chiefs, killed 
 by the English, and led to their discovery and consequent 
 murder. My own guides, it appeared, had not been very 
 handsomely treated ; their lives had been more than 
 once threatened while remaining at Kabi's village ; and 
 as they had heard nothing from me for three days, they 
 said they concluded I had proceeded to the Kei, and were 
 glad to leave a country where they had all along been 
 taken for spies. 
 
 Saturday, \5tJi, — With the hope of obtaining some 
 information respecting a route which I might be neces- 
 sitated to take across the Quathlamba mountains, towards 
 the north-eastern frontier of the colony, I crossed the 
 Umzimvoobo on Thursday, to Mr. Fynn's village, about 
 twenty-six miles distant from hence, and returned last 
 night. The remains of that immense and extirpating 
 
^62 
 
 JOUIiXEY TO THE 
 
 horde, led on by the celebrated Matuana, — and who, from 
 their unsparing ferocity, have obtained the name of 
 Fitcani (destroyers) — are still to be found in almost every 
 district of this part of the continent— their battle-ground 
 having extended quite across to the very embouchure of 
 the Orange river. It was from some of these people 
 that I was anxious to obtain an account of the country 
 to the westward, and a promise of assistance, should I 
 attempt the mountains in that direction. All agreed in 
 the opinion that it would be impracticable, as the ridges 
 were so unbroken and perpendicular, that even a foot- 
 path could not be effected without making many tedious 
 circuits ; during the course of which their companions 
 had been frequently lost, and many perished from 
 extreme cold on gaining the summit. 
 
 Sunday, l6th, 
 
 "Do this in remembrance of me." — (Luke xxii. 19.) 
 
 What a hateful thing- is sin 1 
 
 How it steals the heart away ; 
 Though subdued — it leaves within 
 
 A poison, death alone can stay ; 
 It dims the eye of faith, and chills 
 The love that oft our bosom fills. 
 
 Could we otherwise refrain 
 
 From weeping- when he heard Him say, — 
 " Remember me who once was slain 
 To wash your guilty stains away." 
 Should we so oft mementos need 
 To think of such a Friend indeed. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 263 
 
 What is all our love compared 
 
 To that which Jesus has bestowed ? 
 
 In all our sorrows he has shared, 
 
 For us his precious blood has flowed ! 
 
 Can we behold that wond'rous sight 
 
 And not our thankless bosoms smite ? 
 
 Kindle, O Lord I a heavenly flame, 
 Within my heart thy grace impart ; 
 
 1 would confess with deepest shame 
 The coldness of my lukewarm heart. 
 
 Oh ! let me ever mindful be 
 
 Of Him whose blood was shed for me. 
 
 Be this my boast while life shall last, 
 
 Redeeming grace and dying love ; 
 Then when this pilgrimage is past. 
 
 In realms of endless joy, above. 
 My rapturous song will ceaseless be. 
 My Saviour has remembered me ! 
 
 Conducted the Kafir services morning and afternoon. 
 
 Tuesday/, ISth, — The affection from which Faku has 
 lately been suffering in his eyes has, as usual, been attri- 
 buted to witchcraft. Since I last saw him, he has allowed 
 himself to be punctured above the eye-brow by a witch 
 doctor, who pretended to extract from the opening a small 
 quantity of snuff, which he declared had been placed 
 there by an enemy, and had occasioned the disease. The 
 inflammation, relieved by the operation, has since gradually 
 subsided ; and the alleged Umtakati (bewitcher) is already 
 in confinement. In order to extort confession, it is not 
 an unusual method to pinion the accused individual to 
 the ground with forked stakes, with the head resting in 
 
264 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 an ant-hill ; the body is then strewed over with the 
 debris of ants'-nests taken from the trees, while water 
 is dashed upon them in order to excite the insects to bite 
 more sharply. The torture must be extreme, as the 
 whole body is said to be often so swollen after this dreadful 
 infliction as to appear scarcely human. If found guilty, 
 they are only released to be beaten to death with knobbed 
 sticks and stones. Accounts have just been received of 
 some spies from Kheeli (son of the late Hinza) having 
 traversed the country, from which I have just returned, 
 in their way to one of the upper branches of the Umzim- 
 voobo ; where, it is said, a part of his tribe have an inten- 
 tion of removing on the advance of the English troops. 
 It is a providential circumstance that we did not fall in 
 with them, as they are reported to have been well armed 
 and mounted, and are not likely to have spared two 
 Englishmen who were defenceless. 
 
 Although the Amapondas are a mild and hospitable 
 people, some of their customs would indicate the utmost 
 degree of barbarity. It is usual for the ruling chief, on 
 his accession to the government, to be washed in the 
 blood of a near relative, generally a brother, who is put 
 to death on the occasion, and his skull used as a receptacle 
 for his blood. Faku would have undergone this horrid 
 libation, had not his brother Gwingi, Avhose turn it was, 
 according to the rules prescribed, made his escape to a 
 neighbouring tribe. For some time after a diligent 
 search was made for his person, and he has never since 
 thoroughly recovered from the exposure and hardships 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 265 
 
 which he endured while lying so long concealed from his 
 merciless pursuers. In consequence of the Christian 
 remonstrances of Mr. Tainton, he was at length suffered 
 to return ; and Faku has allowed the horrid practice, as 
 regards himself, to go into desuetude, which, for the sake 
 of humanity, it is to be hoped will never again be revived. 
 The palliative sanction of custom cannot, however, be 
 admitted in the case of Umyaki, now an independent 
 Amaponda chief, residing near the coast in the direction 
 of Morley. Having defeated a party of Amatembu, 
 who had attacked him in his own country, Gallaka, the 
 son of an inferior chief, fell into his hands a prisoner. 
 On his being brought to Umyaki, he immediately 
 despatched him with his own hand, and then ordered 
 his heart and liver to be boiled, with the broth of which, 
 poured into his skull, he caused himself to be washed. 
 This, however, is regarded, even by the natives them- 
 selves, as an unusual act of barbarity, and has given 
 great offence to all the neighbouring chiefs ; still in both 
 instances, as well as in the more general custom of 
 drinking the gall of their enemies (practised, I believe, 
 exclusively among the chiefs), the object mainly in view 
 is the acquisition, as they imagine, of additional bodily 
 strength. But even these are nothing when compared 
 with the various and wanton inflictions of their witch 
 doctors, many of which are revolting in the extreme. 
 About three years ago one of these diabolical agents (not, 
 as it is said, without some colour of ancient sanction,) 
 perpetrated the following act in order to propitiate success 
 
^66 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 for Faku's army, then on the eve of taking the field. 
 He directed that the fore-leg of a living bull should be 
 cut off at the shoulder, and then ordered the men with 
 their teeth to tear the flesh from the reeking limb and 
 devour it on the spot, while the tortured animal was left 
 to a cruel and lingering death. The acquisition of cattle 
 is the grand incitive to war among all the tribes in this 
 part of Africa; and peace of any long duration is only to 
 be expected by those who, like the Bushmen, are unen- 
 cumbered with this envied description of property. The 
 elysium of a native is to be enabled to drink abundance 
 of sour milk without fear or molestation; and, although 
 his country may abound with corn, he keenly feels the 
 want of this favourite beverage. The Amapondas having 
 suffered so severely in their wars with Charka have, in 
 consequence, become great beer-drinkers; and even now 
 that they are gradually recovering their losses by the 
 increase of their cattle, still I fear this baneful habit, 
 induced by the scarcity of milk, is likely to be of long 
 continuance. When reproached for their frequent inebrity 
 (for they often meet in large parties, and drink until they 
 are stupified) they archly reply, What can we do ?— we 
 have no cattle — this is our milk." Even Fakii himself 
 is not free from this reproach ; and is said to have been 
 frequently found sealed in a torpor induced by outchualla. 
 This morning I received a note from Mr. Fynn, informing 
 me of his ill success in endeavouring to procure guides 
 for the inland route from among Tpai's people, or a 
 messenger who would venture across with a letter to the 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. ^6? 
 
 camp. As a dernier resort I rode over to the Great 
 Place with the hope of inducing Faku to assist me with 
 his army ; hut, unfortunately, he was in one of his stupors, 
 and laid on the ground at full length, surrounded by 
 many of his people, during the greater part of the time 
 I was there scarcely conscious of any thing that was 
 j)assing. On my return I stopped a short time at a 
 neighbouring village belonging to Damas, Faku's eldest 
 son, in order to witness a dance which was taking place 
 in honour of one of his sisters about to be married to 
 Tpai, several of whose people were present on the occa- 
 sion. This kind of performance is very inferior to that 
 of the Zoolus' ; the men, holding short knobbed sticks in 
 their hands, were arranged three deep in a semicircle — the 
 women, as usual, occupying a compact group before them. 
 The song was not in parts, as among the Zoolus, but 
 often strangely broken by the whole of the men suddenly 
 seating themselves on the ground, and then as abruptly 
 rising and going on with the tune; while the women 
 during the whole time were straining their voices, 
 jumping, and clapping their hands by way of accom- 
 paniment. As they had already been some time engaged 
 in this violent exercise, much of the ochres, red, white, 
 and yellow, with which their faces were besmeared, had 
 disappeared ; enough was, however, remaining to render 
 them sufficiently hideous. The men were generally 
 decorated with the tail-hair of their cattle tied round 
 the calf of the leg and on their arms, which gave them 
 a very wild and ferocious appearance. Many, both men 
 and women, wore large ivory rings, (always a very 
 
268 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 becoming ornament,) on the upper part of the arm — shell 
 bracelets (white, with black streaks), with one or more 
 panthers' teeth suspended round the neck, were also worn 
 by some of the men ; while many of the ladies, in addition 
 to their other embellishments, had their hair twisted 
 into lank and mop-like ringlets, and the whole thickly 
 plastered with red ochre. 
 
 Faku himself is utterly regardless of every description 
 of personal ornament ; with his ivory snuff-spoon stuck 
 in his hair, and his reed snuff-box in his ear*, he is dressed, 
 with the exception of a leopard skin mantle occasionally 
 thrown over his shoulders or gathered round his waist. In 
 this respect he is a perfect contrast to Dingarn, and only 
 deigns to wear beads when he joins in the dance. 
 
 Friday, ^Ist. — Faku having signified his wish to see 
 me on the subject of my late proposal, I went this 
 morning by appointment to the Great Place, accompanied 
 by Mr. Tainton and my interpreter, and was soon after 
 joined by Mr. Fynn. On our approach, Faku was 
 observed to come from his hut and stretch himself at full 
 length under the shade of a low thorn bush, near the 
 cattle-fold, at a short distance from a group of his princi- 
 pal people, seated on the ground. He gave his hand to 
 each as we took our stations near, but not a syllable 
 was uttered relating to the business on which we were 
 expressly met to consult. At length I inquired whether 
 he had been informed of what I had said when I saw him 
 last, on which he requested me to repeat what had then 
 
 * A large perforation is made in the ear for this purpose, and is 
 characteristic of the nation. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 been stated, as he had only heard it through his people. 
 The proposed plan I told him was this, to collect his 
 army, and, in combination with that of Tpai, to make a 
 sudden and rapid march to the Kei, without turning to 
 the right hand or to the left, and only opposing those 
 who actually obstructed his progress. That by doing this 
 they would take the country by surprise, none of the 
 tribes through which they would pass would have an 
 idea of their destination, much less would they have time 
 to combine in order to oppose their advance. On reaching 
 the English troops they would meet with the most friendly 
 reception, and they would doubtless escort them on their 
 way back as far as they pleased. 
 
 Faku then stated his own plan, which was first to make 
 an attack upon Umyaki, and the other petty chiefs with 
 whom he was at war in the neighbourhood of the Umtata, 
 and clear his way as far as the Bashee, after which his army 
 could again go out and open a road to the Kei. This I 
 told him would be the very way to increase the difficulty ; 
 that he would not only weaken his own forces, but cause 
 his enemies to combine in greater numbers ; that there 
 was but one plan which offered any probability of ulti- 
 mate success, and that was to make a rapid movement 
 through the country directly along the waggon road to 
 the Kei ; and that he would be sure to fail if he attempted 
 it in any other way. Faku then pleaded his want of 
 strength ; that his army was unequal to cope with the 
 various tribes that would oppose him at every step of the 
 road ; that he was fearful that some harm might happen 
 
*i70 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 to me ; and, in fact, acknowledged that he was himself 
 opposed to the measure. On hearing this, it was in vain 
 to say more than to assure him that, if he would sanction 
 the attempt, I was quite willing to accompany them. 
 The chiefs by this time had crowded round, each evidently 
 prepared to give his opinion, which, from all I have since 
 heard, would have been quite at variance with that of 
 their ruler; but, as his word is law, not- a dissentient 
 voice was heard ; and after a few observations in which 
 Faku begged it might be understood that the decision he 
 had made was not with any unfriendly feeling towards 
 the English, as he belonged to the same Great House, we 
 took our leave. The real fact I believe to be, that Tpai 
 could not be induced to unite his forces vv^ith those of the 
 Amapondas ; for, notwithstanding the pending family alli- 
 ance between Faku and him, these people are naturally 
 so jealous of each other, that any long continuance of 
 cordiality is not to be relied upon ; and even had they 
 taken the field together, some dispute might probably 
 have arisen whereby the tw^o parties might have been 
 arrayed against each other. Were Faku in person to 
 head his army, they would be sufficient for any practi- 
 cable enterprise, but this he has not done for years ; they 
 are generally led on by one of his sons, but neither they 
 nor any of the inferior chiefs have sufficient influence to 
 controul the whole, so that his army is composed of a 
 number of almost independent chiefs with their different 
 clans acting generally in concert, but without any acknow- 
 ledged head. This circumstance at once accounts for the 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. . 271 
 
 ill- success which has almost invariably attended every 
 expedition which has carried them to any distance beyond 
 the limits of their own country. It may here perhaps be 
 as well to explain, that, in consequence of the total absence 
 of all correct intelligence from the scene of action, as also 
 from any part of the colony in which for months we had 
 been kept, it was fully believed that the war had not ter- 
 minated with the Kafirs. Had I at this time been aware 
 of the actual state of affairs on the colonial frontier, a 
 proposition of the nature just alluded to would never have 
 been made to Faku ; but considering the importance of 
 speedily communicating with the government on the 
 affairs of Port Natal, I felt myself justified in the adoption 
 of these means, though feeling deeply the necessity of 
 casting to such a quarter for assistance. My progress to 
 the colony in this direction seems now completely ob- 
 structed ; especially as a party of Amapondas, in revenge 
 for some real or pretended wrong, have lately captured 
 cattle, and fired some houses belonging to Cosiana. 
 Little did I imagine on leaving Port Natal that I should 
 so soon be obliged to retrace my steps ; this, however, 
 appears to be the only probable means of eventually pro- 
 secuting my journey, especially as accounts have just 
 been received of a vessel having lately appeared off the 
 Umcamas apparently standing towards the port. On my 
 return to Bunting I obtained a distant view of a remarkable 
 rock which rises like a fortress among a very broken range 
 of mountains on the right ; so scarped and precipitous are 
 the approaches to this insulated crag, that, some time ago, 
 
JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 while five or six native lads were amusing themselves oh 
 the top, the grass below had been unexpectedly fired, 
 and, fanned by the wind, the flames ascended so rapidly 
 up the sides, that before they could descend by the only 
 practicable path, the summit was encircled by the burning 
 grass, and they all perished in the flames. 
 
 The person charged with having bewitched Faku has 
 lately been put to death ; and as we approached the Gum- 
 kulu this morning, the blackened sites of his two villages, 
 which were in consequence burnt down, were pointed out. 
 
 After all that we have heard, a mystery still rests upon 
 the fate of the messengers last sent to the Kei ; that 
 they have been murdered there is not the smallest doubt; 
 but, from rumours among the natives, it is now strongly 
 suspected that they never proceeded beyond the Ama- 
 tembu country, but were put to death by order of 
 Ferdana ; should this prove to have been the real fact, it 
 sufficiently accounts for his conduct to me. 
 
 Sunday 2S?'d, 
 
 " Watch and pray, that ye enter not into temptation." — (Matthew 
 xxvi. 41.) 
 
 If the name of Christ we bear — 
 
 If we love the Lord indeed ; 
 In toil and conflicts we must share, 
 
 And daily hourly grace shall need I 
 
 Not flesh and blood alone withstand, 
 
 But principalities and powers ; 
 Beleaguered round on every hand, 
 
 Defeat and ruin would be ours — 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 273 
 
 But He, the Shepherd of his fold, has said, 
 
 Fear not — though helpless, I am nigh 
 To cast ray shield around your head, 
 
 And every needed grace supply. 
 
 To all that ask I freely give — 
 
 The prayer of faith shall never fail ; 
 Seek, and your fainting soul shall live, 
 
 And o'er your fiercest foes prevail. 
 
 But we must watch as well as pray — 
 
 The wily tempter knows our frame ; 
 And lurks to seize upon his prey, 
 
 When thoughtless of a Saviour's name* 
 
 Unwatchful prayer, like faith alone, 
 
 The promised blessing ne'er attends ; 
 'Tis only when its power is shown 
 
 By vigilance, that grace descends. 
 
 Lord, teach me now to pray aright, 
 
 And unto prayer my soul sustain ! 
 Make me to walk as in Thy sight, 
 
 Lest Satan some advantage gain. 
 
 So shall I not Thy name disgrace, 
 
 Sheltered beneath Thy powerful arm ! 
 And I shall soon behold Thy face, 
 
 Where Satan has no power to harm. 
 
 What are all our conflicts here. 
 
 To the glories of that day ! 
 Let this hope our spirits cheer — 
 
 Let us ever watch and pray ! 
 
 Conducted the services ; about thirty natives attended. 
 
 Tuesday, ^5th. — Having decided on returning to Port 
 Natal, I this morning took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Tain- 
 ton, for whose truly christian hospitality I feel much 
 
 T 
 
274} JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 indebted. The cart having been sent on the day before, 
 I rode alone to Mr. Fynn's hut, a little beyond the Great 
 Place. Faku, as I approached his house, came out to 
 meet me, and, with a marked expression of cordiality, 
 gave me his hand, with the salutation, " Dakubona Um_ 
 fundees" (I have seen your teacher). Mr. Fynn accompa- 
 nied me to Mr. Ogle's place, on the Umsnodoosi, about 
 seven miles beyond the Umzimvoobo, where the cart had 
 already arrived. 
 
 Wednesday, 2Qth. — Proceeded on my journey at seven. 
 Passing one of Tpai's villages, I found on inquiry that 
 they possessed some information respecting the inland 
 route, which was likely to be useful ; and thinking it 
 possible that guides might be procured among these 
 people, could the consent of their chief be obtained, as 
 we had not travelled more than nine miles, I thought it 
 vrould be desirable even to retrace our steps, and, before 
 proceeding further, ascertain what prospect there was of 
 getting through in that direction. One of my waggons, 
 w^hich for some months had been left at Bunting, unable 
 to proceed to the colony, was therefore sent for in prepara- 
 tion for such an expedition, and in the meantime I pro- 
 posed a visit to Tpai, in the skirts of whose territory we now 
 were. During our short journey this morning, we passed 
 the spot where Lieutenant Farewell left his waggons, 
 and within twenty miles of the residence of Nato, chief 
 of the Quawbi, by whom he and several of his party 
 were shortly after murdered (1829). The Quawbi 
 were a revolted tribe of Zoolus, who had deserted from 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 275 
 
 Charka, and taken with them many of his cattle. In 
 their progress southward they committed dreadful devas- 
 tations, penetrating the Amaponda country, and stretch- 
 ing even to the neighbourhood of the Umtfita, where 
 they destroyed the first Missionary Station that had been 
 established in that district*. They were eventually repulsed 
 by Faku, who, after considerable loss, concentrated his 
 force on the right bank of the Umzimvoobo, at a point 
 where that river makes an abrupt angle, pent in by 
 opposing mountains, and attacked them with such vigour, 
 that the greater part either fell under the assegai, or 
 perished in the stream. This memorable spot, about two 
 miles below the usual ford, has received from Europeans 
 the name of Quawbi's Corner, while the appropriate title 
 of Jazeeli (conqueror) has been given by his subjects to 
 Faku, who himself headed the attack. Lieutenant Fare- 
 well was on his way to Port Natal, and induced by the 
 friendly representations of some of the Quawbi, w^hom 
 he met with on the road, to visit Nato for the purpose 
 of purchasing cattle. On that very night, while in 
 apparent security, this cold-blooded murder was perpe- 
 trated ; instigated, as is generally supposed, by a jealousy 
 of his influence with Charka, and a determination to 
 obstruct the advantages which might accrue to his enemy 
 from a commercial intercourse with Europeans. On my 
 return I was much pleased with the attachment evinced 
 by my servant Umpondombeeni, who, on being informed 
 
 * The Wesleyan Society, to which this mission helong-ed, afterwards 
 removed it to Morley. 
 
 T 2 
 
276 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 of the place I had in view, and asked if he were willing 
 to accompany me, replied, " Yes — where you die I must 
 die too." 
 
 Thmsclay, 21th, — Set out for Tpai's principal place, 
 accompanied by Mr. Ogle, riding and walking alternately, 
 as one of the horses had strayed, and could not be found 
 in time. The distance is about twenty miles, in which 
 we passed several villages scattered over a very uneven 
 country. The approach to these villages was somewhat 
 curious. It is a common practice throughout these 
 tribes at this period of the year to suspend, for present 
 use, large bunches of Indian corn from the branches of 
 high trees in the immediate neighbourhood of the huts, 
 in order to secure them from the depredation of rats ; 
 but here, in addition to these indications of plenty, the 
 symbols of war were associated ; the fur kilt, which is the 
 principal part of the war-dress, being frequently exhi- 
 bited from the trees — a practicable evidence of the war- 
 like propensities of the owners. These people are called 
 Amahoash, and originally inhabited a country on the 
 right bank of the Umgani, about eighty miles from the 
 coast, whence they were driven about thirteen years 
 since by Charka, who, in his thirst for conquest, either 
 drove or destroyed all the intermediate tribes as far as the 
 Umzimcoolu. Among these were two powerful chiefs, 
 Noombao and Umdingi, who in their turn fell upon the 
 tribes residing between that river and the Umsecaba. 
 Maddegan, the brother of Tpai, and father of the present 
 minor, in his guardianship wished to have united himself 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 277 
 
 with them in these wars for existence and territory, but 
 they would not consent; he therefore made war upon 
 them, and conquering them both, eventually took posses- 
 sion of the districts bordering the left bank of the Um- 
 zimvoobo, where he and his tribe have now resided above 
 three years and a half. During these wars, which were of 
 long continuance, their numbers were greatly reduced ; but 
 on the final defeat of the Quawbi by the Amapondas, they 
 fell upon their rear, and contrived to possess themselves 
 of their cattle ; and from that period have been gradually 
 recruiting their losses. At present their whole force is 
 computed at about three thousand fighting men — a small 
 army indeed, when compared with that of some of the 
 neighbouring states : but from the peculiar wariness of 
 their attacks — generally in the night — their acknowledged 
 courage and indiscriminate carnage, never sparing either 
 women or children, they have long been the terror of this 
 part of the country ; and under their present enterprising 
 chief, were their population more numerous, would rival 
 Charka himself in rapine and war. They are frequently 
 receiving accessions from other tribes — already they are 
 spreading themselves more to the north ; and it is not 
 improbable that they may eventually rise to be a power- 
 ful nation. 
 
 A little before sunset we reached Imp5za, the great 
 place'' of Maddegan, their late chief. Although Tpai has 
 lately commenced another place, about a day's journey to 
 the northward, this is still regarded as the Gumkiilu, and 
 it is here that he transacts business of importance. The 
 
278 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 chief was unfortunately absent on his way to his new 
 place, having left early this morning, and was not again 
 expected for four days ; when, it was said, he would return 
 to meet his Amaponda bride, the betrothed daughter of 
 Faku. The Incosi-case (widow of Maddegan) was unwell, 
 but immediately despatched messengers to acquaint Tpai 
 of our arrival ; and it was supposed that he would return as 
 soon as the messengers reached him ; but from the dis- 
 tance, he cannot be expected before Saturday afternoon. 
 This place is built upon the slope of a steep hill, which 
 forms one side of a wooded ravine, through which a 
 small stream forces its way. The huts are dirty and 
 wretched — and the whole village, both in situation and 
 appearance, seems only fitted for the abode of a party of 
 freebooters. 
 
 Friday ^%th, — As we had brought no provisions, and 
 scarcely any thing could be procured here, we should have 
 been badly off had not Manandaza (the Incosi-case) con- 
 siderately ordered a heifer to be killed for our use, which 
 indeed was eagerly consumed by our two men and the 
 people of the place ; but, as usual, was far too tough to 
 benefit me much. Before it was slaughtered I went to the 
 cattle-fold, where the people were assembled for the 
 purpose, in order to prevent the poor animal from being 
 unnecessarily tortured. Although their method of killing 
 cattle is in general use among the Amakosa and neigh- 
 bouring tribes, I had never before witnessed it ; and on 
 being assured that it was as expeditious as any other 
 mode of taking life, I allowed them to proceed. The 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 279 
 
 unfortunate animal, seized by its horns and legs, was 
 then thrown on its back, and held down by several men 
 until an opening was made by an assegai a little below the 
 chest. Into this opening the man thrust his arm above 
 the elbow, feeling his way until he grasped the heart- 
 string, which by main force he broke, and then left the 
 poor beast, writhing with pain, to linger several minutes 
 before it expired, breathing partly through the gaping 
 wound. The horror of that sight, and the feelings I 
 endured during the barbarous act, w^ill long be remem- 
 bered ; and most strenuously would I recommend all Mis- 
 sionaries and well-wishers to humanity to exert their 
 influence, if possible, to abolish a practice at once so 
 cruel and revolting. The scene which followed w^as 
 quite in keeping with the commencement. The paunch 
 was immediately cut into strips, and, without washing, 
 eagerly devoured on the spot. Within the circumference of 
 the cattle-fold a fire was kindled, on which several steaks 
 were thrown, and these in about ten minutes were consi- 
 dered sufficiently done, and by the united aid of teeth 
 and assegai were hacked and torn into smaller pieces for 
 immediate use. One man I observed, perhaps sharper set 
 than the rest, dividing with his dog the raw flesh which 
 he held between his teeth ; having cut off sufficient for 
 himself, he ate it with considerable satisfaction, although 
 but the instant before it had been severed from the car- 
 case. Determined that the want of a marrow-spoon 
 should not deprive them of any part of their accustomed 
 meal, a heavy thump upon a flat stone speedily dislodged 
 
280 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 the contents of every bone which came within their reach, 
 unscathed by the neighbouring fire, and the envied morsel 
 was conveyed to the mouth by the elegant process of 
 suction applied to the stone in question, which might 
 probably have been lying embedded in the dust and 
 dirt of the cattle-fold for months before ; even the blood 
 was not rejected, but carefully collected in earthen vessels 
 and carried away to be cooked ; a circumstance which I 
 consider remarkable, having among all these nations 
 traced so many vestiges of Jewish rites. The disgusting 
 practice of rubbing meat in the contents of the paunch of 
 the beast from which it has been cut, is said to have the 
 effect of preserving it, as it thereby acquires sufficient 
 saltness to be kept for a considerable time, and in taste 
 and appearance in some degree resembles that which has 
 been steeped in saltpetre. The choice pieces reserved 
 for the chiefs, are always submitted to this operation, 
 which obtains as well among the Zoolus as the different 
 Kafir tribes. 
 
 Notwithstanding this appearance of plenty, boiled In- 
 dian corn and outchualla (here, as well as among the Ama- 
 pondas, called ejeeki) were all that I could obtain ; and 
 having provided myself with a spoon, the section of a 
 calabash, by way of bason, completed my dinner-service. 
 
 This evening the chief arrived, having been overtaken 
 on the road by the messengers, and we soon after paid 
 him a visit. He received us in a large hut, the residence 
 of his late brother Maddegan, but now occupied by his 
 widow Manandaza. He was seated before the fire, with- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY, 
 
 281 
 
 out a particle of clothing, attended by eight or nine men, 
 huddled together in an opposite side of the hut, while 
 the Incosi-case, being an invalid, was stretched on a mat 
 upon the floor in another corner. He seemed amused by 
 my asking, as I entered, which was Tpai ; but although 
 the light was not favourable to a narrow inspection, it was 
 soon evident that I was in the presence of one of the 
 shrewdest and most desperate characters in this part of 
 Africa. His figure is slight and active, of middle sta- 
 ture ; but the searching quickness of his eye, the point 
 of his questions, and the extreme caution of his replies, 
 stamped him at once as a man capable of ruling the wild 
 and sanguinary spirits by which he is surrounded. His 
 inquiries were principally respecting Dingarn and the 
 Kafir war. He wished to know when the English would 
 withdraw their army from Kafir-land ; and what I thought 
 of Dingarn ; whether the Zoolus were likely to go out to 
 war this year, &c. ; remarking that, whenever they did go 
 out, they would be almost sure to make an attack upon 
 him. 
 
 Saturday, ^^th. — It was late last night before any de- 
 cided answer could be extracted from Tpai respecting the 
 guides I am so anxious to obtain ; and at last he ended by 
 declining them altogether. Unwilling, however, to return 
 without some further attempt, we paid him another visit 
 this morning. On telling him that I was about to pro- 
 ceed to the colony, and inquiring if he had any message 
 to the " Great Chief," he said he wished me to inform 
 him that he was friendly to all the white people ; that 
 
282 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 he had always protected those who had passed through 
 his country ; and that he was sorry that a white man 
 (alluding to Mr. Rollins, the late assistant at Butterworth,) 
 had been killed by his people, when he made an attack 
 some months since upon the Amatembu ; but as he had 
 joined with them, and fired his gun upon his people, it 
 could not be helped. I told him that we did not excuse 
 the white man for uniting with his enemies, nor did we 
 blame them for what had happened to him so employed. 
 
 He signified his intention to forward through Mr. Fynn 
 two elephant's teeth, as a present to the " Great Chief," 
 in assurance of his friendly disposition ; but, at the same 
 time, openly declared that, should'the white people ever 
 come against him in a hostile manner, he was resolved to 
 fight with them. 
 
 On being again applied to respecting guides, he said 
 that he could not order any to go, as should any thing 
 -happen to us the blame would probably be attributed to 
 him. I then asked whether, provided any could be found 
 willing to accompany me, he would withhold his consent. 
 
 No," he replied, " they have full liberty to go if they 
 please ; but I will not order them." As the party had 
 gradually increased to nineteen or twenty, I thought it 
 a good opportunity to obtain some information as to their 
 ideas respecting a Supreme Being, &c. ; commencing the 
 subject by inquiring of Tpai, whether he was willing to 
 receive a missionary, should any be inclined to reside near 
 him. To this proposal he readily assented; saying that 
 he should be glad. It may be as well to mention here, 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 283 
 
 that the generality of these chiefs are actuated by political 
 motives in the favour and protection which they extend to 
 missionaries residing among them ; and that, although the 
 result under the blessing of God may be such as would 
 cause the heart of every sincere christian to exult with 
 joy and thanksgiving, the native ruler would merely an- 
 ticipate a higher degree of respect from his neighbours, 
 by being thus in some degree allied to the white people, 
 with probably a remote prospect of protection from them, 
 and a certain present advantage in the numerous presents 
 which, according to custom, would fall to his share. This 
 it is but fair to mention — not with a view to scrutinize 
 motives, but to obviate mistakes, and to show forth the 
 manifold mercy and wisdom of God in over-ruling even 
 the unsanctified wills of men to the extension of his own 
 work of grace, and the promotion of his own glory. What 
 a practical commentary to our Lord's words, " Let both 
 grow together until the harvest." 
 
 The conversation which took place I will now relate, 
 as nearly as I can, in the precise words : — " Have you any 
 knowledge of the power by whom the world was made ? 
 When you see the sun rising and setting, and the trees 
 growing, do you know who made them and who governs 
 them ? " Tpai (after a little pause, apparently deep in 
 thought) — " No ; we see them, but cannot tell how they 
 come : w^e suppose that they come of themselves." " To 
 whom then do you attribute your success or failure in 
 war?*' Tpai — When we are unsuccessful, and do not 
 take cattle, we think that our father has not looked upon 
 
284 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 US.'* " Do you think your father's spirits made the world?'* 
 Tpai — " No." " Where do you suppose the spirit of a 
 man goes after it leaves the body ? " Tpai — " We cannot 
 tell." " Do you think it lives for ever ? " Tpai—" That 
 we cannot tell ; we believe that the spirit of our forefathers 
 looks upon us when we go out to war ; but we do not 
 think about it at any other time." " You admit that you 
 cannot controul the sun or the moon, or even make a hair 
 of your head to grow. Have you no idea of any power 
 capable of doing this?" Tpai — " No ; we know of none : 
 we know that we cannot do these things, and we suppose 
 that they come of themselves." Having extracted this 
 painful and truly humbling confession, I concluded the 
 subject by giving him a brief outline of what we were 
 taught in the Scripture respecting God — death — heaven — 
 hell ! and the immortality of the Soul ! During the greater 
 part of this conversation the Incosi-case was quietly re- 
 clining upon her mat : she afterwards sat up a little, and 
 I fully anticipated a long discussion would ensue ; but she 
 did not make the slightest remark. This woman* may 
 be styled a queen of witches, and her appearance bespeaks 
 her craft. Large coils of entrails stuffed with fat were 
 suspended round her neck, while her thick and tangled 
 hair, stuck over in all directions with the gall-bladders of 
 animals, gave to her tall figure a very singularly wild and 
 grotesque appearance. One of her devices, which occurred 
 about six months ago, is too characteristic to be omitted. 
 Tpai had assembled his army, and was on the eve of going 
 * Maiiandaza died shortly after. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 285 
 
 out to war, a project which for some reason she thought 
 it necessary to oppose. Finding that all her dissuasives 
 were ineffectual, she suddenly quitted the place; and, ac- 
 companied only by a little girl, entirely concealed herself 
 from observation. At the expiration of three or four days 
 she, as mysteriously, returned ; and holding her side, ap- 
 parently bleeding from an assegai wound, pretended to 
 have been received in her absence from the spirit of her 
 late husband Maddegan, she presented herself before Tpai. 
 " Your brother's spirit," she exclaimed, " has met me, and 
 here is the wound he has made in my side with an assegai : 
 he reproached me for remaining with people who had 
 treated me so ill." Tpai, either willingly or actually im- 
 posed upon by this strange occurrence, countermanded 
 the army ; and, if we are to credit the good people in these 
 parts, the wound immediately healed ! For several months 
 subsequent to this period, she took it into her head to 
 crawl about upon her hands and knees ; and it is only 
 lately, I understand, that she has resumed her station in 
 society as a biped. The animal necklace, before alluded 
 to, is by no means an uncommon ornament among this 
 tribe. Yesterday I observed a woman carrying an infant 
 similarly arrayed : a lesser coil in due proportion being 
 also twined about the little creature's neck. 
 
 Being desirous to see the heir apparent before leaving, 
 Tpai sent for him at my request, when Umtuchani, the 
 hopeful chief, accompanied by his brother, soon appeared. 
 Both are nice lads ; the former about eleven or twelve years 
 of age ; but I could not regard them without some feeling 
 
286 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 of pity, as, with Tpai's sanguinary turn and love of power, 
 it is doubtful whether he will permit the reins of govern- 
 ment to pass into other hands during his life-time ; in 
 wliich case a very few years must decide their fate. As 
 soon as we had taken our leave, Tpai set out again for his 
 other place ; and shortly after we also retraced our steps. 
 
 All these tribes have a peculiar method of dressing the 
 hair: that in fashion here is very singular. Tpai, and many 
 of the elder men, wore only the Zoolu ring on the crown, 
 while the generality of the younger men had so bushed 
 and trimmed their hair, as, in many instances, to give it 
 the perfect resemblance of a bishop's wig, with the ex- 
 ception of several detached ringlets hanging down behind : 
 the long fibres of a root thrust through the lobe of each 
 ear completed this strange costume. The woolly hair of 
 the women was a compound of mat, curl, and crumple, 
 in every part excepting the forehead and back of the neck, 
 where, with great pains, it w^as reduced to a collection of 
 long flaky ringlets ; those in front almost concealing the 
 eyes, and thickly besmeared with red ochre. Some few 
 of the elder women wore a skin wrapper, approaching to 
 a turban, after the manner of the Amatembu belles ; but 
 for a more minute description of their toilet, I must refer 
 to the accompanying sketches taken on the spot. 
 
 A severe retribution is often inflicted upon this cruel 
 tribe ; but, unfortunately, it has generally fallen upon 
 those who are the least responsible. In their wars with 
 the Amatembu, who, having killed their chief, Maddigan, 
 in battle, have become their perpetual enemies, it has 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 287 
 
 not been unfrequent to cut off the hands of the women 
 who fall into their possession, in order the more readily 
 to procure the brass rings and armlets that many of them 
 wear. Two of these unfortunate creatures were observed 
 at Impoza- one deprived of both, the other of one hand. 
 How humbling is this view of humanity — desperately 
 wicked indeed is the human heart when left to itself ; and, 
 until the light of the Gospel illumine these dark places of 
 the earth, they will ever remain as designated by the 
 unerring Word of God, eminently " the habitations of 
 cruelty." May it please the God of all grace to cut short 
 his work in righteousness, and deliver these poor captives 
 from the bondage of Satan, and the shadow of death in 
 which they are now sitting. 
 
 Disappointed in the object of my visit (not a single 
 individual volunteering to accompany me inland), we 
 returned to the village we had left on Thursday before 
 sunset. 
 
 Sunday^ SOtk. 
 
 Who maketh thee to differ from another ; and what hast thou that 
 thou didst not receive ? " — (1 Corinth, iv. 7.) 
 
 Oh ! what a thankless heart I bear, 
 
 Thoug-h fraug-ht with love my days have been ; 
 
 Yet how reluctant to declare 
 
 The g-oodness and the truth I've seen. 
 
 Why am I now exempt from pain. 
 
 From pining- want, and sickness spared ? 
 How many seek relief in vain. 
 
 In every mortal gri.'^f have shared ! 
 
288 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 But deeper, higher blessings still 
 
 Should fill my heart with grateful praise, 
 
 That God has e'er revealed his will. 
 
 Vouchsafed that 1 should learn his ways. 
 
 Oh ! what distinguished love is this, 
 
 That I should e'er have known the sound 
 
 Of gospel grace and heavenly bliss — 
 That Jesus has a ransom found. 
 
 Why am I thus to differ made. 
 
 While millions still in darkness lie. 
 
 Whose hearts would gladly have obeyed, 
 Who would not have rebelled as I .' 
 
 *Tis only grace — and grace alone, 
 For ever be its power proclaimed, 
 
 That sought and touched this heart of stone. 
 From paths of death my steps restrained. 
 
 A brand from out the burning caught — 
 Of goodness daily should I speak, 
 
 Recount what sovereign grace has wrought, 
 That others may like mercy seek. 
 
 Kindle, O Lord ! my thankless heart, 
 May every breath with praise ascend ; 
 
 The love that seraphs feel impart, 
 Some foretaste of their rapture lend. 
 
 So when th' appointed days shall cease. 
 And this cold heart no more shall beat ; 
 
 In brighter realms of joy and peace, 
 
 Grace — conquering grace will still be sweet. 
 
 Long as eternity shall run 
 
 A deeper gratitude will glow ; 
 The grace that was on earth begun 
 
 In streams of endless bliss shall flow. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 2S9 
 
 English service in the hut in the forenoon. Kafir in 
 the open air in the afternoon; about sixty-five natives 
 attended. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 1st — In reference to these locations 
 vi^hich have been severally distinguished as places belonging 
 to Mr. Fynn, Mr. Ogle, or Mr. Cane, some explanation is 
 necessary. In the month of June, 1833, Dingarn's army, on 
 their return from Tpai's country, attacked a waggon 
 belonging to some Hottentots on the right bank of the 
 Umzimcoolu, and murdered all the people excepting three. 
 The account soon reached Port Natal, and it was rumoured 
 that this was but the commencement of a general attack 
 in contemplation upon the settlement. On their wa} 
 home, a large detachment of the Zoolu army passed the 
 neighbourhood of Port Natal, which at once induced the 
 natives to give full credence to the reports of their hostile 
 designs ; and, without waiting the development of their 
 plan, they mustered in large parties, in some instances 
 assisted by the white people, and commenced firing upon 
 them from the bushes as they pursued their route. The 
 Zoolus, unaccustomed to the use of muskets, and surprised 
 at this unexpected attack, gave way, and unresistingly 
 fled in all directions until they regained the main body, 
 when the whole made the best of their way home. No 
 sooner was the affair related to Dingarn, than he ordered 
 all his people then inhabiting the district between the 
 Port and the Tugala to withdraw ; and, notwithstanding 
 two entire regiments were stationed there, the whole 
 moved off, and have never since occupied any portion of 
 
 U 
 
290 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 the country to the southward of that river, which is now 
 considered as their boundary in that direction. A 
 simultaneous movement was at the same time made by 
 the inhabitants of Port Natal, both white and black, who, 
 naturally apprehensive of retaliation on the part of 
 Dingarn, left the country, and fled beyond the Umzim- 
 coolu. The greater part of the latter soon returned, but 
 many belonging to Mr. Fynn, Mr. Ogle, and Mr. Cane 
 still remained, and have established themselves in the 
 places referred to, forming permanent villages, and culti- 
 vating the ground. These people still acknowledge thera 
 as their chiefs, and are prepared to remove again to Port 
 Natal whenever it may be required, regarding themselves 
 as totally distinct from the neighbouring states, among 
 whom they have never been incorporated, although sur- 
 rounded by them and living with them on the most 
 friendly terms. The united population of these villages, 
 which are prettily scattered over the neighbouring hills, 
 is estimated at fifteen hundred, every individual of whom 
 would repair to Port Natal on the first announcement of 
 its being placed under the protection of the British 
 Government. As a proof that no hostile intentions were 
 then in contemplation, Dingarn, soon after the arrival of 
 the fugitives on the Umzimcoolu, despatched ten mes- 
 sengers, including my present servant Umpondombeeni, 
 to apologize for the attack upon the Hottentot waggon, 
 and to request the white men would return. Shortly 
 after a few did return, but the settlement was not gene- 
 rally re-occupied until about nine months subsequently. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 291 
 
 In the afternoon of this day my waggon arrived from 
 Bunting, and as I was still buoying myself up with the 
 hope of procuring a sufficient number of volunteers from 
 among the neighbouring villages to prosecute the inland 
 journey, all hands were soon occupied in constructing 
 a new tilt, and getting provisions and every thing ready 
 for the journey. 
 
 Thursday^ Srd. — Notwithstanding every effort, with 
 the powerful inducement of cattle as a reward, not an 
 individual would come forward, and the very name of the 
 expedition had caused such a panic among the natives, 
 that, although Mr. Ogle had engaged to accompany me, 
 it was found necessary to abandon the attempt in this 
 direction ; and, every thing being ready, I set out this 
 morning on my return to Port Natal, taking the waggon 
 with me. 
 
 Saturday^ 5th, — Although the European seasons are here 
 reversed we were not altogether without our September sport . 
 Soon after we had left the habitable district, two natives 
 brought intelligence that they had fallen in with two ele- 
 phants at a little distance in advance of the road we were 
 taking. As soon as we came to the spot they had pointed out, 
 we left the waggons in charge of a few people, and went in 
 quest of them. After walking about two miles, a party 
 of natives, still on the look out, assured us that they had 
 entered a wooded ravine, for which we immediately made. 
 Groups of natives (Amapondas) occupied the heights in 
 all directions to prevent their escape, but would not 
 venture themselves nearer. We went down to the skirts 
 
 u 2 
 
292 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 of the wood, and occasionally caught a glimpse of their 
 huge bodies through the openings, and a few shot were 
 fired chiefly to dislodge them from their retreat, as it was 
 quite impossible, from the intricacy and tangled nature of 
 the underwood, to obtain a proper aim. Tired at length 
 by such fruitless attempts, we entered the wood by paths 
 worn by the elephants themselves, and penetrated very 
 near to the spot where they were standing, but still there 
 was no possibility of obtaining a full view of them with- 
 out being too much exposed, as it would have been quite 
 impossible to have escaped through such a labyrinth 
 had either of them been inclined to pursue. As it was, 
 we had more than once to make off with all speed, when- 
 ever they thought proper to make a rush. The natives 
 were so sanguine as to our success, that they had actually 
 lighted fires, and were assembled around them in antici- 
 pation of the expected feast. Although they kept at a 
 respectable distance from all danger, they contributed 
 much to the interest of the scene, by frequently ad- 
 vancing to the skirt of the wood, shouting with their 
 united voices, and striking their shields with their 
 assegais, in order to induce our noble game to betake 
 themselves to the open grounds. Thus engaged, the 
 night closed in upon us; and, becoming too dark to dis- 
 cern even an elephant among the thick boughs, the wood 
 was no longer tenable, and we were reluctantly obliged to 
 abandon the pursuit. This resolution was no sooner 
 formed, and we had commenced the ascent, than crash 
 went the bushes, and out they both sallied, the cow 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 293 
 
 halting from the effect of a wound ; but, notwithstanding 
 we all gave instant chase, they were soon out of sight, 
 beyond the reach of our guns. On this the hungry 
 Amapondas quitted their fires supperless, and we pro- 
 ceeded by moonlight to our waggons without a single 
 tooth as a trophy. As we walked along, Daniel (a 
 Hottentot), the driver of Mr. Ogle's waggon which accom- 
 panied me, related a very remarkable incident which hap- 
 pened to him some time ago while in the pursuit of an 
 elephant near the Umzimcoolu. So suddenly had he 
 come upon the animal, while watching his movements in 
 a thick wood, that, before he had time to retreat, he felt 
 the pressure of its trunk actually wound round his head. 
 Had the grasp been lower it would have been fatal, but 
 most providentially it merely lifted the cap from his head ; 
 and instantly, on finding himself liberated, with that 
 presence of mind which danger often induces, he dived 
 between the animal's fore-legs, and, passing quickly in his 
 rear, eventually effected his escape. In order to make up 
 for this detention, we proceeded for about three hours by 
 moonlight, and the next day, about eleven, reached the 
 waterfall^ To the Umsicaba, a few miles beyond which 
 I am now writing, the road to me is new, being the 
 waggon track which I have not before travelled, and 
 hich has given me an opportunity, with which I have 
 en much gratified, of a scramble among the rocks and 
 •ecipices of this singular glen, which breaks so abruptly 
 »m the level of the country over which we had been 
 
294 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 travelling, that you suddenly approach a perpendicular 
 cliff overlooking an extensive view, and from which the 
 cataract descends to a great depth below. At this season 
 of the year it is comparatively empty, and can scarcely be 
 said to fall, a few trickling rills only finding their way 
 to the base of the acclivity. But the accompanying sketch 
 will convey a far better idea than any verbal description. 
 In order to distinguish this from many other equally 
 nameless waterfalls on this route, I have ventured to call 
 it the Waning Fall, in indication of its rapid increase and 
 decrease according to the season of the year. Soon after 
 leaving the neighbourhood of this romantic glen, several 
 elands were seen on the open ground ; one actually 
 approached so near as to pass between the people and the 
 loose cattle which they were driving. This is the largest 
 species of the African deer, the males standing as high 
 as a horse, and frequently running as fleet, though it is 
 by no means so easy to overtake a doe even when well 
 mounted, 
 
 Sunday^ ^th, 
 
 " And the soul of the people was much discouraged because of the 
 way."— (Numbers xxi. 4.) 
 
 How oft our treacherous hearts conspire 
 
 To meet the wily tempter's art I 
 The very blessings we desire 
 
 If but delayed, in whole or part, 
 Or wrought in some mysterious way. 
 Oft fill our bosoms with dismay ! 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 295 
 
 Too apt to judge, by sense we deem 
 
 Our ways and wisdom oft the best ; 
 Some shorter path would easier seem, 
 
 To lead us to our heavenly rest ; 
 The language of our hearts would say, 
 " We 're much discouraged by the way." 
 
 But could we see the germs of pride, 
 
 The spirit that too oft compels, 
 How much the world our hearts divide. 
 
 What poison in its flattery dwells ; 
 Our choice the desert path would be, 
 If, Lord ! it does but lead to Thee. 
 
 Though oft we seem again to trace 
 
 The very paths we trod before, 
 'Tis but to show our need of grace— 
 
 From some besetting sin restore ; 
 'Tis trial proves us cold or hot, 
 Whether we love the Lord or not. 
 
 Lord ! never leave me to my will. 
 
 In all the way my steps direct ; 
 Thy gracious purposes fulfil. 
 
 From faithless fears my soul protect ; 
 With Thee in Christ my life be hid, 
 One backward — sinful glance forbid. 
 
 So shall enduring peace be mine. 
 
 Thy rod and staff shall be my stay ; 
 And when my spirit I resign, 
 
 'Twill rise to realms of endless day : 
 For ever to admire the grace, 
 That led me first to seek thy face. 
 
 Forenoon, English service in the open air — Afternoon, 
 Kafir, ditto. 
 
 Monday, 7^/^.— Unable, on account of the tide, to ford the 
 Umtendo, which we reached on Saturday afternoon, we were 
 
296 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 obliged to wait until eight o'clock ; a detention which I did 
 
 not regret, as the scramble up the opposite acclivities, which 
 
 was effected without accident, was performed under the 
 
 softened light of a full moon, giving to one of the most 
 
 difficult waggon passes that can be imagined, and which 
 
 to a novice in South African travelling would be regarded 
 
 as an utter impracticability, a peculiar interest, which it 
 
 would be difficult to describe. Part of my retirement 
 
 yesterday was spent in view of the romantic cliffs and 
 
 woods which margin this beautiful river, about a mile 
 
 from its entrance into the sea. It was one of those 
 
 beauteous spots which, while they gladden the eye, should 
 
 lead us, as Cowper beautifully observes, " From nature 
 
 up to nature's God ; " and cause us to break forth in the 
 
 words of another poet : — 
 
 These are Thy works, Parent of good ! 
 Almighty ! thine this universal frame. 
 
 Yesterday afternoon some natives arrived with an answer 
 to a letter I had sent to Port Natal, requesting, if the 
 sloop had arrived, that she might be detained until my 
 return, as I wished to take a passage by her to Algoa 
 Bay ; but it contained no such cheering news — nothing 
 had entered the Port since my departure. I was glad, 
 however, to find that my truant horse, " Pilgrim," who 
 so unhandsomely deserted me near the Umcamas, had 
 been found not far from that river, and taken back to 
 Berea, and that I might expect him shortly to be for- 
 warded on to meet me on the road. Should it be 
 necessary after all to attempt the inland route, which is 
 said to be more accessible from Port Natal, his services 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 will be valuable, and I shall not regret the long holiday 
 he has taken. 
 
 Saturday^ l%tJi. — On Wednesday morning a herd of 
 wild pigs, about forty, were seen, and eagerly chased by 
 the people. My driver shot one, which was a very 
 seasonable supply. On the same evening we reached 
 the Umzimcoolu, but, as it was just high-water, were 
 obliged to wait until midnight, when we crossed at the 
 mouth. As Mr. Ogle, with a waggon laden with 
 elephants' teeth, was in company, the party was some- 
 what numerous, and the oxen had strayed so far, that 
 it was long after the river was reported to be fordable 
 that they could be collected. The descent to the beach 
 is steep, and the night was so dark, that in order to save 
 the wheels of the waggons, which more than once sunk 
 into the burrows of the ant-eater, they were obliged to 
 be supported occasionally by ropes and reims *, to prevent 
 them from going over. In the mean time, the tide had 
 rapidly increased ; the oxen soon lost their footing, and, 
 before the hind wheels had entered the stream, the front 
 pair were swimming. It was indeed a gracious provi- 
 dence that brought us safely through, the waggon itself 
 being more than once lifted by the heave of the waves. 
 On the following evening I was surprised at the audacity 
 of a hyena. It was dark when we approached the bank 
 of a small brook, covered with brush-wood, and in this 
 vantage-ground a large fellow, who had just quitted his 
 lurking-place, was advancing to attack my waggon driver. 
 
 A Dutch word sijjnifying leather thongs. 
 
29S 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 who had followed him without a gun : happily I came 
 up at the time, and, although equally unarmed, he made 
 slowly off, stopping occasionally and looking over his 
 shoulder, as he deliberately ascended the bank. It is 
 most probable he had been attracted by the pork which 
 was still hanging about the waggons. Notwithstanding 
 their usual timidity, frequent instances have been known 
 in which natives have been attacked by them. Mr. Ogle 
 related one which occurred in the Zoolu country, when 
 he was passing through the district of Clomanthleen, in 
 
 Lieutenant Farewell's employment While sleeping in a 
 
 hut, with several natives belonging to the party, a 
 hyena entered, and, seizing one of them by the forehead, 
 dragged him towards the door-way, but was unable to 
 proceed with his prey, as the wicker-door, which slides 
 within two short posts, had swung back and partly closed 
 the opening by which he had forced his way. In this 
 predicament, the screams of the man, and the efforts of 
 both, soon awoke the rest of the party, who, to their great 
 surprize, found this unwelcome companion a prisoner 
 among them. Shouting to the people in a neighbouring 
 hut, some burning faggots were introduced, which had 
 the instantaneous effect of liberating the sufferer, and 
 ejecting the disappointed intruder. 
 
 Yesterday a buffalo was shot, which has put all the 
 natives in good spirits ; the strong and stringy flesh of 
 these animals being as delicious, in their estimation, as 
 the tenderest beef to an European palate. The poor 
 beast, which was an aged one, and of immense size and 
 power, stood four shots before it ceased to plunge and 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 299 
 
 tear the ground, and even after he fell, rolled over and 
 over down the slope of the hill in his efforts to raise 
 himself again upon his feet. Twice already have we 
 been stopped by the rain, this being the month when it 
 usually commences in this latitude. Some of our halting 
 places, and particularly our nightly bivouacs, are truly 
 picturesque often among romantic scenery, sheltered, 
 when practicable, by rocks, or branches of trees cut for 
 the purpose ; while the blazing fires shed a peculiar light 
 over the motley features of the surrounding group. Not 
 even the designs of Salvator Rosa, Bassano, or any of the 
 other great masters of claro obscuro which I have seen, 
 have ever conveyed to my mind the real peculiarities of 
 these wild situations : the fact is, they are inimitable — 
 much must always be left for the imagination, and it is on 
 this very account that in all descriptive scenes poetry so far 
 surpasses canvas representations. One may indeed illus- 
 trate the other, but to my mind the former has always 
 the superiority. Of all the party, my servant, Umpon- 
 dombeeni, was not the least grotesque ; having picked up 
 on the beach a large sponge, which exactly fitted his head, 
 and which he decorated at the crown, which was peaked 
 with the tail-feathers of a fowl that had been killed. As 
 this was the first time that I had seen his head covered 
 in any way, I was highly amused at the extraordinary 
 change it had made in his appearance, while the cap 
 itself, which he persisted in wearing during the remainder 
 of the journey, reminded me of the antique drawings 
 of Dacian helmets, and was by no means unbecoming. 
 
300 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 On reaching Mr. Cane's village, where we stopped 
 some little time this morning, I found my horse. Two 
 men, we understood, had recently been drowned in an 
 attempt to cross the Umzimcoolu at the upper ford. Had 
 they waited until the ebb tide, there would have been 
 no danger, but this is a point of experience to which 
 few of them have yet arrived ; too frequently acting 
 upon an absurd notion that when the moon has set the 
 water has likewise reached its minimum. Including the 
 above, three persons have been drowned at the same 
 river within the short space of two months. Unfor- 
 tunately, the natives of this part of Africa have not the 
 slightest idea of a canoe, and but very few of them can 
 swim. When the trading sloop, about fifteen tons, 
 anchors in Port Natal, " The Ship " is announced, and 
 numbers flock to the beach to behold the wonder. The 
 prolific mattingoolo, so generally abundant near the sea, 
 was now entirely out of season — not one was gathered 
 during the whole journey, to our no small regret, as we 
 were living chiefly on meal, without even sugar to make 
 it more palatable. 
 
 Sunday, 13th, 
 
 " It is well."— (2 Kings iv. 26.) 
 
 When wave on wave our souls oppress, 
 
 And troubles like a flood o'erwhelm ; 
 When tempest tost in deep distress, 
 
 No pilot seems to guide the helm — 
 'Tis grace alone that storm can quell, 
 And cause us to pronounce — " 'Tis well." 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 301 
 
 Grace, like the tree Elisha found, 
 
 Can make the bitterest waters sweet ; 
 Though all seems dark and dreary round, 
 
 It sooths the deepest grief we meet ; 
 And though our hearts too oft rebel, 
 Inclines them to confess — " 'Tis well." 
 
 Hushed is the storm — its fury laid. 
 
 When once that still small voice we hear, 
 
 It is I— be not afraid ! " 
 
 Thy Saviour and thy God is near I 
 
 No more the billows rage and swell, 
 
 Cheered by His presence — all is well. 
 
 Like suffering Job, the soul can cleave, 
 
 Bereft of all, on Him alone ; 
 The firmer grasp, the more we leave, 
 
 And 'mid the fiercest trial own, 
 He who our inmost thoughts can tell 
 Has justly stricken — " It is well ! " 
 
 Submission is thy work indeed — 
 
 But Thou hast promised more than this ; 
 
 Lord, let my soul from sin be freed. 
 Make me thy chastening rod to kiss ; 
 
 Make faith and love within to dwell. 
 
 And then, indeed, it will be well. 
 
 What though rebuked and chastened here, 
 
 It is a Father's hand we fell ! 
 Soon we shall count those sufferings dear, 
 
 Which broke our stubborn hearts of steel ; 
 And own the griefs our bosoms swell. 
 Were needful each — and all was well. 
 
 In that bright world of light and joy. 
 Where tears and sorrow cannot come, 
 
 'Twill be our g-rateful, sweet employ, 
 The mercies of our days to sum. 
 
 And, oh, what mortal now can tell 
 
 How much of earthly grief was well ! 
 
302 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Performed English service in the morning — Kafir in 
 the afternoon. 
 
 Tuesday^ 15tJi, — Yesterday morning I left the wag- 
 gons about five miles on this side of the Umcamas, and 
 rode to Berea. No vessel had arrived, and it was the 
 general opinion, to which I could not but acknowledge 
 the painful probability, that she was lost. Since my 
 absence, a native in the service of Mr. Plankenberg has 
 been killed by an elephant near the Mavooti. 
 
 The hunting party to which he belonged had bivouacked 
 for the night, when suddenly they were surprised by a 
 troop of elephants, approaching close to their sleeping 
 place. They had scarcely awoke when they were obliged to 
 fly for their lives — all, excepting the deceased, crept under 
 the neighbouring bushes, and remaining perfectly still, 
 were unmolested, while he, endeavouring to effect his 
 escape by running, attracted their notice, and was imme- 
 diately seized and trodden to death. 
 
 On the arrival of my waggon this afternoon, prepara- 
 tions were commenced for a journey across the Quath- 
 lamba mountains, it being now my intention to endeavour 
 to reach the colony by that route, every other being com- 
 pletely closed ; and, after communicating with his Excel- 
 lency, to proceed directly to England, in the hope of 
 procuring Missionaries to occupy the Stations now formed 
 — having as yet been unable to forward one single letter 
 to the Church Missionary Society on this important sub- 
 ject, although many have been written. 
 
 Monday, 2\st. — The hyena which had unceremoniously 
 broken into the hut where the meat was kept, and 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. SOS 
 
 devoured part of it on Saturday, returned last night, and 
 finished the remainder, carrying even the door of the hut, 
 which was found almost broken to pieces, to a considerable 
 distance. This is the hut which was originally used as 
 the school, and on Sunday for the English service. 
 
 Thursday, 24/^. — On Tuesday afternoon the equip- 
 ment was so far advanced, that we left Berea, and spanned 
 out on the flat opposite to Mr. Collis's, in order to take in 
 the remainder of the provisions. 
 
 Solitary as was my abode at this place — a humble grass 
 hut, affording nothing, either within or without, which in 
 common parlance might be included within that most com- 
 prehensive of all English words, " comfort" — still it had 
 been my " home," and was not divested of many pleasing 
 associations ; but it was not until I had actually turned 
 my back upon it, and was descending the hill, that 
 I became sensible of the place it already occupied in 
 my affections. I had just taken leave of my faithful 
 servant Umpondombeeni, to whose attachment I could 
 not be insensible. Though reluctant to leave his wives, 
 he had merely asked my leave to visit them at the Tu- 
 gala, and return in time for the present journey ; but 
 this I thought unreasonable, and sent him home, with 
 directions to inspect the huts at Culiila occasionally, and 
 see that the oxen presented to me by Dingarn were pro- 
 perly attended to in my absence. 
 
 Nombamba, another of my servants, a fine active young 
 man, volunteered to accompany me, which I accepted ; 
 while poor Seenda, Mankanj ana's brother, whom I was 
 
304 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 educating, expressed by his looks an equal desire, though 
 he was far too young for such a jaunt. Yesterday morn- 
 ing, about nine o'clock, the waggons being properly 
 packed and the people arranged in their places, we com- 
 menced the journey, stopping about an hour for some of 
 the oxen at Mr. Pickman's (the last village in that direc- 
 tion, in the neighbourhood of Port Natal). Mr. Collis 
 accompanied me on horseback to the mid-day halting- 
 place, and soon after took his leave. 
 
 It may here be as well to give a list of the equipment : — 
 Two waggons ; 
 
 Fifty-one draught oxen (two of which were pack oxen) ; 
 Twelve calves, for slaughtering ; 
 One cow and calf, eight days old (carried in the wag- 
 gon while travelling). 
 N. B. — As one ox and the cow and calf were left 
 on the road, the total number of cattle was sixty-two. 
 
 Including Mr. Ogle, who took this opportunity of going 
 to the colony with a native servant and myself, the party 
 consisted of twelve, vix. five Europeans, one Hottentot, 
 and six natives. 
 
 To European travellers the number of draught-oxen 
 may appear disproportionate, but it would not have been 
 prudent to have set out on such a journey with less than 
 two span of twelve for each waggon, and a few spare 
 ones in case of need ; indeed, I should not have hesitated 
 to have added even a few more, could they have been 
 procured. After crossing the Umlass and Umpogoti 
 rivers, the road takes a great circuit to the south-west. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 305 
 
 This morning, at our first halt, about eleven o'clock. Port 
 Natal was distinctly visible — the nearest part of the bay 
 could not be more than nine or ten miles distant in a 
 direct line, although we had travelled about thirty. The 
 country through which we passed yesterday is broken 
 into moderate hills, covered in patches with trees and 
 underwood, producing abundance of grass, and only 
 requiring the hand of man to develop the natural richness 
 of the soil. During the greater part of the night there 
 has been rain. Passed to-day a very broken country — 
 the mountains generally table- topped, and the trees gra- 
 dually disappearing as we recede from the coast. At a 
 little before sunset stopped for the night. While toiling 
 up a very steep ascent this afternoon, I observed a 
 remarkable tree, about the size of a large apple-tree, 
 growing near the bank. From the circumstance of its 
 bearing a reddish blossom, and being totally divested of 
 leaves, I at first mistook it for the umseensi, but on a 
 nearer inspection I found that the blossom was of a deep 
 cherry or blood- red colour, and am inclined to believe 
 that it is a species little known. The Fig. No. 3, PI. 3, 
 from a sketch taken at the time, will probably assist the 
 botanist in deciding this point. 
 
 Friday, ^5th, — This morning we were delayed on ac- 
 count of the oxen, several having separated from the 
 main herd : they were tracked to a considerable distance ; 
 and from the speed with which they appeared to have 
 gone off, it was supposed that they had been chased by a 
 lion. Spanned out early, and despatched three men after 
 
 X 
 
306 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 them, with directions to cut across the country, and meet 
 us again on our arrival at the Inthlangwain villages. 
 They did not, however, proceed far when they fell in with 
 the missing cattle, and returned. Just as we were again 
 setting out a Hottentot arrived on horseback. As he ap- 
 proached, I felt assured that he had been sent to announce 
 the arrival of some vessel in the bay ; but far different 
 were the tidings he brought, and most heart-rending the 
 accounts contained in the letters he delivered. Mr. Collis's 
 magazine, containing fifteen hundred pounds of powder, 
 had yesterday exploded ; and himself, his infant child, the 
 native nurse, and a Hottentot named Class, had been 
 killed, while several natives were severely burnt. The 
 circumstance which led to this awful scene was related by 
 a native who was present, and so severely burnt, that it 
 is scarcely thought he can recover. Mr. CoUis had gone 
 into the store for the purpose of taking out a gun for 
 Class, then in his service, but who had accompanied me 
 from the colony as Mr. Berkin's servant. In order to 
 try the flint, he had imprudently snapped the lock, with 
 the muzzle pointed towards a powder barrel, when the 
 gun which had been carelessly put by loaded, but without 
 priming, went off ; and the explosion, which w^as heard at 
 the Umgani, took place. The mangled bodies of Mr. CoUis 
 and the Hottentot were blown to a considerable distance ; 
 the skull of the infant, which was in the arms of the servant 
 girl, seated on the outside of an adjoining building, was 
 fractured ; and she shortly after died of the injury she 
 had sustained. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 307 
 
 So sudden and so awful a summons from time into 
 eternity speaks, in solemn accents, to every heart, — " Pre- 
 pare to meet thy God." Oh ! that this afflictive dispensa- 
 tion may not be without a beneficial influence upon the 
 lives of all in this neighbourhood ! that this second breach 
 in our small community may teach us so to number our 
 days, that we may apply our hearts unto wisdom ! that 
 those who have never yet sought the Lord may seek Him 
 in earnest, while their day of grace remains ! and that 
 those who have found Him, and felt that He is indeed 
 precious to their souls — all their hope, and all their desire — 
 may be stimulated to greater watchfulness, working while 
 it is day, that when their Lord shall come, they may be 
 found with their lamps trimmed ready for his appearing ! 
 
 Having despatched the messenger with a short reply, 
 we proceeded on our journey over an undulating country 
 destitute of trees. Soon after sunset stopped at a spot 
 formerly the site of a native village, but where only suffi- 
 cient brushwood for kindling the fires could be procured. 
 
 Saturday^ ^Qth, — A continuation of the same open 
 country, iminteresting to a traveller, but likely one day 
 to be held by the grazier in great estimation ; the 
 downs being extensive and elevated, the soil dry, and 
 the grass shorter and better than that produced on the 
 lower grounds nearer to the sea. This whole district, 
 now a wilderness, was, as I am informed, well inhabited, 
 until the devastating army of Charka swept over these hills. 
 The mere circular site of their perishable dwellings is all 
 that is now apparent, but many of the cattle enclosures, 
 
 X 2 
 
308 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 which, from the scarcity^ of timber, were built of rough 
 stones, are still remaining. Some which we passed are 
 built entirely of mud, piled in blocks, like unhurt brick ; 
 others with stone and mud intermixed, in layers, and 
 arranged in the circular form, similar to those which are 
 enclosed with a bush fence. 
 
 Mr. Cane, who accompanied me as far as the Inthlan- 
 gwain villages, related a singular method of ^setting a 
 broken limb, having himself experienced the operation at 
 a spot not far from the track we are now pursuing ; his 
 arm having been broken and put out of joint by the over- 
 turning of his cart. Several men having assembled at 
 the place, with a native Esculapius at their head, a deep 
 hole was scooped out, and then partly filled with pliant 
 clay ; the whole arm, with the hand open, and the fingers 
 curved inwards, was then inserted, when the remainder 
 of the clay that had been prepared was filled in, and 
 beaten closely down. Several men then steadily raised 
 his body perpendicularly to the incased arm, and drew it 
 out by main force. By this simple but somewhat painful 
 method his arm was perfectly reset ; and, had he retained 
 the native bandage, would doubtless have grown perfectly 
 straight, but by substituting a sling it has grown out. 
 This, I understand, is the usual practice among all these 
 tribes ; and is said to be effectual. Our forenoon's journey 
 was about four hours. In the afternoon several bucks 
 were seen, and a herd of buffalo passed very near to the 
 waggons ; one was wounded by Jacob, the Hottentot, but 
 we had not time to pursue them. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 309 
 
 By following the track of some Dutch waggons on their 
 return to the colony, and which we afterwards understood 
 had separated at this point, we were thrown considerably 
 out of the road, and obliged to bivouac near the Unia- 
 gdrda, a branch of the Umcamas, which here occupies a 
 narrow ravine at the foot of the mountains. Had it not 
 been for this circumstance, we should probably have reached 
 Foortu's village this evening, which I was anxious to effect 
 on account of the service to-morrow. Near the stream 
 are a few patches of trees : the rocks are compact sand- 
 stone and coarse slate. 
 
 Sunday^ 9^1 tJi. 
 
 " I have sworn by myself, the word is gone out of my mouth in 
 righteousness, and shall not return ; that unto me every knee shall 
 bow, every tongue shall swear." — (Isaiah xlv. 23.) 
 
 Lord of the harvest, now descend. 
 
 Break up this dry, this fallow ground; 
 May light and life thy word attend; 
 
 Release the souls in darkness bound. 
 
 Ride on victorious to reclaim 
 
 The holds which Satan still defends ; 
 Proclaim thy great, thy glorious name 
 
 To all the earth's remotest ends. 
 
 Immutable thy promise stands ; 
 
 Thy purposes of love are sure ; 
 The time is set to loose the bands 
 
 Which Afric's fettered sons endure. 
 
 Pity, O Lord I their lost estate ; 
 
 Attend thy people's earnest cry. 
 Who plead for them, and supplicate. 
 
 Oh ! leave them not in chains to die. 
 
310 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Shall he, the strong man armed, defy 
 
 The armies of the living- God ! 
 What ! though with walls they're fenced on high, 
 
 Prevailing prayer shall stay the rod. 
 
 Is there no son of Jesse here — 
 
 No champion for the Lord of Hosts ? 
 Shall Israel now turn back with fear, 
 
 In sight of promised Canaan's coasts ? 
 
 Kindle afresh that holy zeal, 
 
 Which fired apostles' hearts of old : 
 Arise, O Lord ! thine arm reveal ; 
 
 Enlarge the borders of thy fold. 
 
 May many hearts, inclined by grace, 
 
 Themselves a free-will offering give — 
 To publish peace in every place. 
 
 Where sinners now in darkness live. 
 
 Till every border is possessed, 
 
 And Christ proclaimed in every land ; 
 Till then we would not — dare not rest — 
 
 But forward press at thy command. 
 
 And every city compass round. 
 
 Till grace shall bid the bulwarks fall. 
 And joy and peace on earth abound. 
 
 And Jesus shall be all in all. 
 
 English service in the forenoon. — Kafir service in the 
 afternoon. 
 
 Monday y ^Sth, — Tedious travelling — one waggon obliged 
 to be dug out of a swamp, and both to be towed separately 
 up a steep hill by both spans united. On the descent from 
 these acclivities, the rocks exhibit many appearances of 
 combination with iron. Crossed another small stream, also a 
 branch of the Umcamas, and soon after the river itself, 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 311 
 
 the bed of which was strewed with rocks, and the water, 
 in some places, scarcely knee-deep. The villages of the 
 Inthlangwain, which had been for some time visible, 
 could only be approached by a waggon, on account of the 
 ruggedness of the ground, by a very circuitous route ; 
 that belonging to Foortu, the ruling chief, and at which 
 we arrived soon after noon, is situated on the skirt of the 
 narrow valley at the foot of the mountain ; the remainder 
 are generally on higher grounds, and have a pretty effect 
 backed by the dark precipices beyond. In this favoured 
 spot vegetation is prolific ; some large trees occupy the 
 ravines, both wood and water are convenient, and corn is 
 produced in abundance. There is on the opposite side of 
 the river a salt pan, but it is of small extent ; still, as it is 
 the only one known to exist throughout the country on 
 this side of the mountains, it might probably be turned 
 to some account. In the river are some good fish, one of 
 which was caught. As it is rather an extraordinary event 
 to see waggons in this part, we were soon surrounded by 
 the whole male population ; while the women, patient 
 creatures ! set heartily to work to grind corn and bake 
 loaves for the journey, the prospect of a few yards of 
 dungaree and some bunches of beads calling forth all their 
 energies. 
 
 Having already made acquaintance with Foortu at 
 Berea, I spent some little time in his hut, in order to 
 obtain what information he possessed respecting the 
 country we were about to traverse. Unfortunately, their 
 hunting expeditions had been chiefly confined to the in- 
 
312 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 termediate country between this and the sea, ranging 
 from the Umgani to the Umzimvoobo ; they said they 
 had in some instances been nearly to the Quathlamba, 
 but knew of no passes through those mountains, nor had 
 they even heard of inhabitants in any of the inter- 
 vening districts. These people originally lived high 
 up on the right bank of the Tugala, whence they were 
 driven, about fifteen years since, by the devastating wars 
 of Charka. The name of this village is Doomazoolu, or 
 Thundering Heavens, and, with the other nine, contains 
 from 300 to 400 men ; and as each on an average has 
 three wives, the whole population may be estimated at 
 about 3000. The name of Charka, according to Foortu's 
 account, was not even known to them until the approach 
 of his army was announced, and they were eventually 
 obliged to abandon their country, when, after wandering 
 for some time, they settled on the Umzimvoobo ; but even 
 there they found no respite, the Amakoash under Madde- 
 gan falling upon them and killing their chief Nombeii 
 (father to Foortu), who fell by the hand of Tpai. This 
 occurred about five years ago, and obliged them to seek 
 their present asylum, which, after enduring many hard- 
 ships, several of their people dying from actual starvation, 
 they effected. They describe themselves as having been 
 formerly a powerful nation, the only remains of which at 
 present consist of twenty-five villages, — ten here, ten more 
 on this side of the Umgani, and five on the other, all 
 under the controul of Foortu, and may probably amount 
 to between 7,000 and 8,000 souls. The refugees so fre- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 313 
 
 quently to be met with scattered among all the tribes from 
 the colonial frontier to the Umzimvoobo, and especially at 
 the missionary stations in those districts, and who are known 
 under the general name of " Fingu " (literally wanderer), 
 are the remnants of the various nations formerly inhabit- 
 ing this extensive tract of country, the greater part of 
 whom have been destroyed either by famine or the assegai. 
 On the bank of the Umcamas, not quite a day's journey 
 from hence, towards the mouth is a remarkable rocky 
 defile, which has long been celebrated as the Thermopylse 
 of this part of Africa, having been as courageously de- 
 fended by a chief called Namabunga, and who, with a 
 handful of men, successfully opposed the whole force that 
 Charka could bring against them. The gallant Nama- 
 bunga has since fallen in an affray with the Inthlangwain, 
 and only nine of the original party now remain, who, with 
 their wives and children, still retain their rocky fastness, the 
 proud and melancholy wreck of a brave and unconquered 
 race. Were it not for the important objects of my present 
 journey, which does not admit of any unnecessary delay, 
 I should not certainly have passed so near without paying 
 these extraordinary people a visit. 
 
 The erroneous appellation of " Bushmen," by which 
 the Inthlangwain are commonly known at Port Natal, 
 has obtained, from the circumstance of their having 
 acquired the method of poisoning the assegais which 
 they use in killing the elephant and other wild animals, 
 from a party of wandering Bushmen with whom they 
 were occasionally associated during their residence on the 
 
314 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Umzimvoobo. On asking Foortu, in presence of several 
 of his people, whether he should like to have a " Teacher" 
 residing with him, he said, " I should rejoice ; " and, after 
 explaining the object of my present journey, and the ex- 
 pectation I had of a Missionary being eventually sent to 
 his people, he replied, " I cannot believe that it will be 
 so ; it is what I desire to see, and that which would make 
 me glad." On the subject of religion they are equally as 
 dark as their neighbours the Zoolus. They acknowledged, 
 indeed, a traditionary account of a Supreme Being, whom 
 they called Oukoolukoolu (literally the Great-Great), but 
 knew nothing further respecting him, than that he origi- 
 nally issued from the reeds, created men and cattle, and 
 taught them the use of the assegai. They knew not how 
 long the issitoota, or spirit of a deceased person, existed 
 after its departure from the body, but attributed every 
 untoward occurrence to its influence, slaughtering a beast 
 to propitiate its favour on every occasion of severe sick- 
 ness, &c. As is customary among all these nations, a 
 similar offering is made by the ruling chief to the spirit of 
 his immediate ancestor preparatory to any warlike or 
 hunting expedition, and it is to the humour of this capri- 
 cious spirit that every degree of failure or success is 
 ascribed. They listened with much attention while I 
 informed them what the Scripture said respecting the 
 power, the wisdom, and the love of God, the immortality 
 of the soul, the resurrection of the body, and the day of 
 final judgment ; but an audible laugh instantly proceeded 
 from all who were present, on my telling them that 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 315 
 
 God had declared in his Word that man's heart was full 
 of sin. This I have always found the most difficult subject 
 to explain, even to those who have had frequent oppor- 
 tunities of instruction ; I was not, therefore, greatly sur- 
 prised at this slight interruption, which was merely an 
 expression of astonishment. 
 
 Having presented Foortu with a piece of broadcloth 
 for an ingoobo, he paid me what doubtless he considered 
 as a high compliment, by styling me, in his return of 
 thanks, the " Black Chief." 
 
 These people are not only industrious, but particularly 
 friendly to Europeans, and in every respect offer a most 
 encouraging field for missionary labour; may it please 
 the Lord of the harvest to incline the hearts of some 
 among his devoted servants to visit this secluded valley, 
 and willingly submit to spend and be spent in directing 
 these wild mountaineers to the Lamb of God, the Saviour 
 of sinners. 
 
 Tuesday, 9<^th, — This morning, I sat till I was tired 
 in front of my waggon, dispensing beads in exchange for 
 various articles, which were brought for purchase, such as 
 ezinqua, amas, ground beans*, and Kafir-corn. The crowd, 
 though noisy, were respectful ; each in turns delivering 
 the contents of the calabash or basket, and as quietly 
 awaiting the payment in return. In the very height of 
 the barter, a bush- buck was espied on an opposite hill, 
 which instantly induced a strong party of men, accom- 
 
 * A native, I believe, of Delagoa Bay ; the plant is low, and the beans 
 are produced at the root ; they are very nutritious. 
 
316 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 panied by their dogs, to hurry off in pursuit. Assegais 
 were hastily snatched up, and away they went, dispersing 
 themselves in all directions. It was amusing to observe 
 the rapidity with which, in a few minutes, they had 
 crossed the river and were clambering, among rocks and 
 bushes, the slopes of the mountain beyond ; — the women 
 around the waggon, forgetting for a while their beads 
 and dungaree, and eagerly employed in tracing the buck 
 with their hands and eyes until concealed from their view, 
 seemed quite to enjoy the sport. Three bucks were killed 
 and brought in by the hunting-party in the course of the 
 afternoon. Last night, while conversing with Foortu and 
 some of his principal people, they gave an amusing 
 account of an idea, which, until they had seen white men, 
 they had previously entertained respecting them. It was 
 reported that these strange beings had, on some occasion 
 or other, fallen from the sky, but not with their full com- 
 plement of limbs, but half the usual number of legs, 
 arms, and eyes being sufficient for their use ;~ moreover, 
 they had the peculiar faculty of blowing leaden balls with 
 the breath of their mouths from the muzzles of their 
 guns ! Surprising facts these, which they now acknow- 
 ledge to have been a base imposition. I was happy to find 
 that they give as little credence to the stories respecting 
 Oukoolukoolu, observing that as it appears their fore- 
 fathers had no direct communication with him, they have 
 no reliance upon the statements which have been handed 
 down to them, and that they are desirous to be informed 
 on the subject. In their language, habits, buildings, and 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 317 
 
 appearance, they are exactly similar to the Zoolus, with 
 one important exception — the heads of the women are not 
 shorn, but usually dressed after the Amaponda fashion. 
 The men are fond of wearing strings of white beads 
 round the head, passing just below the eyes and resting 
 on the bridge of the nose, which at a distance give them 
 a very wild appearance. I have also remarked several of 
 the Zoolus similarly decorated. Every thing being 
 arranged, we set out, though late this afternoon, and 
 almost immediately began to ascend a steeper mountain 
 than any I have yet climbed with a waggon. Notwith- 
 standing fourteen oxen were yoked to each, the united 
 strength of both spans was only sufficient to convey mine 
 (the least encumbered) to the top ; all our efforts to raise 
 the other above midway were ineffectual. The night 
 had closed in ; thunder was pealing among the moun- 
 tains ; and, although there was not a spot near the lower 
 waggon sufficiently level to pitch the tent for the people, 
 they were obliged to remain there until the morning, the 
 waggon resting upon the slope with both wheels locked ; 
 and, to an observer from below, to all appearance sus- 
 pended in the air. 
 
 JVednesdcuj, SOth, — Previously to lightening the 
 stranded waggon, which I had directed, one more effort 
 was made ; and to my no small surprise I soon perceived, 
 by the loud cracking of the whip, that they were once 
 more under weigh, and shortly afterwards my lumbering 
 consort made her appearance alongside. From this eleva- 
 
318 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 tion, where we remained for some time to rest the 
 harassed oxen, the prospect is striking; — mountains in 
 all directions, with the Umcamas in graceful windings, 
 forcing its way through their rocky ravines, until lost 
 among the rugged acclivities of Namabunga. We are 
 now fairly entered upon the mountains, and although, by 
 the circuitous route it has been necessary to take, we have 
 travelled about eighty-five miles, the actual distance in a 
 direct line from Port Natal cannot, I should think, be 
 more than fifty on a true course nearly due west. 
 
 Having obtained two men from Foortu, as guides to a 
 ford high up on the Umzimcoolu, we continued our 
 journey about ten o'clock, still ascending. A less tedious 
 and difficult road, I doubt not, will eventually be found ; 
 but it was not until we had surmounted the steepest part 
 that a more accessible route seemed apparent on the left. 
 As it will be convenient for the sake of reference to supply 
 names to a few points during the present journey, I have 
 ventured to call this " Mount Clamber," an appellation 
 which I should apprehend few who have reached the top 
 wdll be inclined to dispute as unappropriate. Thus far w^e 
 have been pursuing a partially beaten track, dignified in 
 Port Natal phraseology by the name of a road ; but here 
 we have only the faint traces of some Dutch waggons, 
 which about twelve months ago crossed these mountains 
 on their return to the Colony from Port Natal, and these 
 only occasionally to be discovered by a practised eye. 
 
 Having now passed what may be termed the only 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 319 
 
 " oasis" by the way, the solitary wilderness is again 
 before us ; but as the day proved rainy, we made but 
 little progress, and out-spanned again at one. 
 
 Saturday, Oct, Srd, — Until this morning we have been 
 weather-bound, detained by the rain ; and 1 have been as 
 it were in solitary confinement, scarcely able to leave my 
 waggon for an instant during the whole time, — the rain 
 falling in torrents with little interruption, and accompanied 
 with much thunder and lightning. Last night was so 
 tempestuous, that the tent was blown over and could not 
 again be pitched, and I was in hourly expectation that 
 the tilt of my waggon, which was leaking down upon my 
 bed, would have shared the same fate. Independent of 
 the discomfort of travelling in rainy weather, it is highly 
 imprudent when on a long journey, as the necks of 
 the oxen soon become sore, and they are thereby ren- 
 dered unfit for use for several days. The two guides, 
 who had wisely returned to their village at the commence- 
 ment of the rain, rejoined us some time after we had 
 started this morning, and reported that the Umcamas had 
 suddenly risen and was now overflowing its banks. Pro- 
 ceeded in a westerly direction over a continuation of 
 rounded open downs without trees. From this high level 
 we obtained the first view of the Quathlamba mountains, 
 extending apparently in one continued range from N.E. 
 to S.W., presenting a very broken and rugged outline, 
 with much snow still remaining on their summits. 
 While endeavouring to cross a small mountain rill, the 
 baggage- waggon sunk to the axles in the mud ; twice the 
 
320 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 tractow * was broken in' the endeavour to urge it forward, 
 and it was not until it had been actually dug out with 
 great difficulty, that it was at length extricated. Here we 
 spanned out during the middle of the day, now delight- 
 fully cool since the late storm. This morning saw an 
 eland, and several bucks and partridges. In the after- 
 noon, we fell in with a large herd of " hartebeests," but 
 could not approach them near enough for a shot ; they 
 are nearly as large as the eland, but with a longer neck, 
 which they carry more erect. In shape they are more 
 like the fallow-deer, with large palmated antlers. Observ- 
 ing by my glass, what I conceived to be an opening in 
 the snowy range, bearing about W. by N., I resolved, if 
 possible, to make that point, in the hope of finding a 
 practicable pass for the waggons. As the upper ford on 
 the Umzimcoolu would oblige us to keep too much to the 
 S.W., I gave up the intention of following the track of 
 the Dutch waggons thus far, and resolved to make the 
 best of ray way across the ridges in the direction pro- 
 posed. The frequent necessity of walking in front to 
 inspect the country before the waggons came up, although 
 very fatiguing, created a great deal of interest, but it 
 prevented me from finding a suitable spot for our Sunday's 
 halt until long after the sun had gone down. We 
 spanned out on a steep ridge, overlooking a rugged valley, 
 in which were two streams, called by the guides the 
 Inkonzo and Ungangwani ; both, as they state, branches 
 
 * Hide rope, passing between the oxen from the pole, and to whicli 
 the yokes are attached. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 321 
 
 of the Umzimcoolu, and uniting with that river at no 
 great distance from our present station. The latter, 
 which is the most distant, is the larger stream. 
 
 Distance travelled ahout twenty-six miles. General 
 course, west. 
 
 Sunday^ ^th, 
 
 Lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of the world, Amen.'* 
 —(Matthew xxviii. 20.) 
 
 What rich mines of endless treasure 
 
 Does the word of God contain I 
 Free and boundless without measure, 
 
 Every promise sure and plain. 
 
 One there is above the rest, 
 
 Sweeter than the sweetest there ; 
 Of that one alone possessed, 
 
 All their fulness we shall share 1 
 
 Hear thy gracious Saviour speak, 
 
 ** Lo, I am with you to the end I" 
 Though you are helpless, poor, and weak, 
 
 On me you always may depend. 
 
 What light and life these words contain I 
 
 All that sinners e'er can need ; 
 A balm for every grief and pain, 
 
 A rich inheritance indeed! 
 
 Join, then, my soul, in that amen, 
 
 Which claims the promise as thine own ; 
 
 Plead it in prayer, — and plead again — 
 Rest not until its power be known. 
 
322 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 When Christ departs, what joy remains? 
 
 All then is darkness and despair ! 
 Vexation marks our toils and pains — 
 
 'Tis only light when He is there ! 
 
 Oh, let me then with Him abide — 
 
 The rock on which my all I build ; 
 No other friend I need beside, 
 
 In Christ my wants are all fulfilled. 
 
 And death — oh bliss ! shall only rend 
 
 The veil that now conceals His face ; 
 And I shall then behold my Friend 
 
 For ever nigh — redeemed by grace ! 
 
 Morning.-^EngVish service in the tent ; — Afternoon. 
 — Kafir ditto in the open air. 
 
 Tuesday, 6//^. — On account of yesterday's rain, we 
 were unable to proceed until this morning. The man 
 who went for the cattle on Sunday evening saw a lioness 
 with four whelps, lying down at no great distance from 
 them, evidently watching an opportunity to seize upon a 
 straggler. When he appeared, they rose and made slowly 
 off, occasionally stopping and looking round, while he was 
 occupied in driving the herd towards the waggons — 
 unaccustomed to such companions, my horse had wisely 
 made off, and was not found again until after we had set 
 out. The Doomazoolu guides, confessing that they had no 
 further knowledge of the country, were this morning dis- 
 missed, and by them I took the opportunity of sending 
 back the cow and calf, to be delivered into the charge of 
 Foortu, and forwarded to Port Natal, when sufficiently 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 323 
 
 recovered. I was not altogether sorry at this necessity 
 (the milk having failed for some days), deeming it gene- 
 rally best on expeditions of this kind, that all should fare 
 alike, and having from the first some little compunctions 
 on the decided selfishness of this private supply. Soon 
 after leaving the heights, where we had spent the last 
 two days, the baggage- waggon again stuck in crossing a 
 brook ; the late heavy rains having softened the ground 
 so much, that the fore wheels were almost engulfed. The 
 attempt to drag it back, by applying the fourteen-ox 
 power to the rear, was ineffectual, as the fore axle rested 
 on the bank. The handle of the spade was broken in the 
 endeavour to pare this down ; and after all, it was found 
 necessary to unload the waggon, and then, by digging a 
 passage in front, to drag it through in the usual manner. 
 Spanned out about one. Observed several yellow wood 
 and other timber trees on the mountain slopes and ravines, 
 but as yet we had been chiefly wending along high ridges 
 through an open country. In many places wild sage, mint, 
 rue, and parsley, are abundant : patches and single plants 
 of the common English fern, here called como-como, are 
 found in every part of this country, and are in great request 
 in the neighbourhood of inhabited places, the root having 
 been found to be a successful remedy against those internal 
 derangements to which, from the necessity of eating 
 meat without salt, and a long continuance of milk diet, 
 the natives are peculiarly liable. The broken nature of 
 the country, and the continuation of a rocky ridge, im- 
 passable for waggons, obliged us to make a great circuit 
 
 v2 
 
JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 to the northward, so that at our evening hivoiiac but 
 little progress had been made in the desired direction. 
 Distance travelled about nineteen miles — general course, 
 N. N. W. 
 
 Perhaps I may here be permitted to introduce the 
 divertisement of a rainy day. 
 
 WAGGON TRAVELLING IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 Ye locomotive sons of travel, 
 
 Whose pastime is to scour the land, 
 Listen awhile while I unravel 
 
 A tale of distant Africand. 
 And dream no more of chariots stuffed, 
 And downy beds with eider puffed. 
 
 In our antipodes of ease. 
 
 If comfort you would still combine 
 To waggon pace, by slow degrees 
 
 Your progress you must here confine ; ' 
 For should you ever walk or ride. 
 You'll have no other house beside. 
 
 No turnpikes here, and scarce a road — 
 
 Still on the cumbrous omnium moves, 
 By twelve or fourteen oxen towed. 
 
 While every rock its metal proves, 
 As jolt by jolt it wends its way 
 Where bucks and elands only stray. 
 
 Resigned and patient you must be. 
 
 For bumps and tossings you will meet ; 
 
 Sometimes you'll think yourself at sea, 
 And oft be jerked from off your seat ; 
 
 And when you come to ford a river. 
 
 The whole will creak, and gape, and quiver. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 325 
 
 For headlong you will seem to go, 
 Like magnets dipping near the pole, 
 
 While currents through your boxes flow, 
 The oxen scarcely in control — 
 
 Now scrambling — falling — swimming now, 
 
 As through the rapid stream you plough. 
 
 And when the nether bank you mount, 
 Like some huge mammoth stranded there, 
 
 Awhile you'll hang — for drivers count 
 'Tis best to pause for change of air. 
 
 Suspended on a steep ascent, 
 
 Lest haply the whole team be spent. 
 
 Crack goes the whip — a passage breaks 
 
 Through tangled boughs, and reeds, and grass ; 
 
 The sea-cow *, scared, her haunt forsakes, 
 And cranes shriek loudly as you pass, 
 
 And loosened rocks in fragments strew 
 
 The opening you have struggled through. 
 
 To check your speed — for strange to say. 
 You're sometimes rudely hurled along — 
 
 A steep declivity may lay 
 
 Across the path you 're journeying on ; 
 
 In serpent windings to and fro, 
 
 The skilful leader makes them go. 
 
 And dust and stones alike are cast 
 To check their mad career awhile— 
 
 An avalanche — you gain at last, 
 By sheer momentum, the defile ; 
 
 But should perchance a rock be there, 
 
 Your wheels would circle in the air. 
 
 * Hippopotamus (so called by the Dutch and colonists). 
 
326 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 And oh^ what barbarous Dutch I've heard. 
 
 Fit language for an ox's ear ; 
 By all this jargon is preferred, 
 
 When they would make the cattle hear ; 
 And, with the harsher whip between. 
 Well suits the wild, — the desert scene. 
 
 All is not fair that cheers the eye — 
 Some treacherous bog- engulfs the wheel. 
 
 Nor house nor tree for miles are nigh ; 
 And though the pelting storm you feel. 
 
 Your whole effects are strewed around, 
 Cast on the black and yielding ground. 
 
 And there perhaps for hours you wait. 
 
 Soaked in the rain, and ankle deep. 
 To mark the lightened omnium's fate. 
 
 And hail it issuing from the deep : 
 And then if you have aught that 's dry. 
 You 're better off than hapless I. 
 
 Such, tourists, are the joys we boast, 
 Without the light champaign to cheer ; 
 
 Yet we can pledge a blithsome toast : 
 The mountain streamlet murmurs near, 
 
 And bumpers to your health we drink. 
 
 And only ask — on us you'll think I 
 
 Wednesday, "^th, — Passed through a very fine country, 
 skirted on the right by a small stream — open downs, with 
 well-watered flats between, and timber in patches on 
 several of the mountain slopes. Saw a herd of harte- 
 beests, but they all ran off before we were within gun- 
 shot. The tails of these animals are similar to that of a 
 horse, and, when at full speed, flow behind them with 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 327 
 
 fine effect — they do not spring, but, like the eland, go 
 off at a trot or gallop. Spanned out about one. A 
 remarkable mountain has been visible in the Quathlamba 
 range nearly the whole morning, bearing north-west ; and 
 from its singularly indented outline, which is represented 
 in the plate at the end, I have been induced to name 
 it the Giant's Cup. This afternoon, having for some time 
 been traversing high open downs, in a direction nearly 
 due west, we were suddenly stopped by abrupt precipices, 
 overlooking some beautifully secluded valleys, through 
 which a river was winding, which I take to be the Ungan- 
 guani. Obliged to turn considerably to the northward, 
 and soon after sunset stopped on the bank of the same 
 river, at a point where it sweeps the steep base of a rocky 
 hill, which opposes itself to its course in a horse-shoe 
 form. Although on the open grounds not a twig was 
 to be seen, the banks of this stream furnished us with 
 abundance of firewood. Distance travelled about twenty- 
 six miles — general course, W. N. W. 
 
 Thursday^ %ih, — Having pared down the bank on each 
 side of the river for the waggons to pass, we crossed at a 
 point opposite to our bivouac, w^hich I have named Wyn- 
 gart's Ford *. Continued our journey still over open 
 grass downs, in nearly a due westerly direction, the ridges 
 gradually declining in height until we reached another 
 rather larger river, which I think must be the principal 
 branch of Umzimcoolu. Both this and the Ungiinguani, 
 pent in by steep acclivities, make very abrupt and ser- 
 
 * From Jan Wyngart, driver of the baggage -waggon. 
 
328 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 pen tine bends at the points where we reached them. A 
 jackal has been seen both yesterday and to-day, as well as 
 some hartebeests. As another remarkable mountain, more 
 to the eastward, has been observed among the Quath- 
 lamba, 1 have named it the " Saddle Back,'* in order to 
 distinguish it from the Giant's Cup, to which it is very 
 similar. The snow has now almost entirely disappeared 
 from the whole range, as far as the eye can reach. 
 
 On this, and many other rivers which we have passed, 
 wild ducks have been seen ; but I have at length adopted 
 the opinion of Waterboer, the Grigua Chief, who, when 
 I met him in Cape Town, replied, with a hearty laugh to 
 my inquiry, whether he w^as able to shoot a bird flying, 
 that he did not waste powder upon birds. The ducks 
 are therefore allowed to enjoy themselves unmolested, 
 which our scanty supply of balls (all the hunters' lead 
 having been expended before we left Port Natal) obliges 
 us to husband it for nobler game. 
 
 This forbearance has not been without its reward, as, 
 during the period of spanning out to-day, an eland was 
 shot on the opposite side of the river. Here it again 
 became necessary to cut the bank on both sides, by 
 which passage we soon after crossed — naming the spot 
 " King's Ford*." 
 
 Afternoon. — Scarcely had we quitted the river, than 
 we were obliged to turn to the southward, and descend a 
 very steep and rocky ridge, which occupied so much 
 time, from the precautions which were necessary to pre- 
 
 * From Richard King, driver of my waggon. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 329 
 
 vent the waggon from overturning, that, in order to recruit 
 the oxen, we spanned out as soon as we reached a conve- 
 nient spot in the valley below. An even grass ridge, 
 forming a complete amphitheatre, sheltered our bivouac 
 on three sides, while a small brook of clear water mean- 
 dered through the whole area. It was a most sheltered 
 spot, but not a twig was growing near, and the people 
 had to go in quest of fire-wood to a considerable distance. 
 Distance travelled fifteen miles — general course, west. 
 
 Friday y 9th. — The mountains, closing in to the west- 
 ward, obliged me to shape a more northerly course, in 
 which direction the country was more open ; and after 
 traversing a continuation of downs, we were again con- 
 ducted to the banks of, what I take to be, the Umzim- 
 coolu, which we forded without difficulty, though the bed 
 was very rocky, at a spot I have called Ogle's Ford*. A 
 heavy thunder storm, with rain, obliged us to stop on the 
 opposite bank. By measuring the waggon and tractow, 
 and allowing for the space between the front oxen and 
 the opposite bank, when in the act of fording in a straight 
 line, I found the width of the river in this part to be 
 twenty-seven yards, and at the former eighty. 
 
 Afternoon, — Ascended a very steep hill from the river ; 
 from the top of which it was observed to make a number 
 of very abrupt windings, through a most impracticable 
 country, intersected with a succession of rocky acclivities. 
 Here the first gneu was seen at a short distance from 
 the waggons. From another steep hill, which we soon 
 * From Mr. O^le, vvho uccompanied the party. 
 
330 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 after ascended, a succession of open downs extended nearly 
 to the mountains. The day had closed, and it was quite 
 dark before an eligible spot for outspanning could be 
 found — there being neither trees nor shelter until we ap- 
 proached some rocky hills, in a northerly direction, where, 
 in consequence of our improvidence in not bringing some 
 firewood in the waggon, we were obliged to go supperless 
 to bed. Travelled about twenty miles — general course, 
 N. E. 
 
 Saturday y 10th, — While walking over the hills this 
 morning, previous to starting with the waggons, I saw a 
 dark coloured, thick-bodied snake, about five feet long, 
 with a wide, flat head, and pointed mouth : the head was 
 covered with yellow spots. It is, I believe, of the species 
 called by the Dutch the " wrinkle snake." On my return 
 we proceeded through a fine valley, leading directly to 
 the foot of the Giant's Cup ; from whence on our right a 
 rocky stream was issuing, which is probably the Umcamas. 
 Having wound for some distance through this valley, skirted 
 on each side by mountains, our further progress was 
 suddenly stopped on one side by immense fragments of 
 rock fallen from the mountain, which rose abruptly 
 on the left, while the river itself occupied the only level 
 spot on the right. Distance travelled about five miles — 
 general course, N. N. W. Having already crossed the 
 stream with my horse by the time the waggons came up, 
 I gave directions to span out, and pushed forward, in the 
 hope of finding some practicable pass on the other side, 
 or at least of observing the country beyond the mountains. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 331 
 
 from one of their elevated ridges. With this object in 
 view I led my horse over the most difficult places ; many 
 parts being exceedingly steep and rocky ; and continued 
 ascending from ridge to ridge until overtaken by a thunder 
 storm. A thick mist rising soon after nearly concealed 
 my path ; but at this time a heavy shower of hail was 
 falling, and I gladly endured a wetting, with the full ex- 
 pectation that it would disperse the mist. In this, how- 
 ever, I was disappointed ; and after anxiously awaiting a 
 break for a considerable time, I unsaddled my horse, and 
 seating myself upon a rock, prepared for a nightly bivouac 
 in this uncomfortable situation. Thus exposed, without 
 the remotest hope of assistance from my party, now several 
 miles distant, I had recourse to that sure refuge — a throne 
 of grace ; and though the infidel may scoff, I will declare 
 it for the encouragement of others, and the glory of my 
 God, that he vouchsafed to hear my cry, and delivered me. 
 Through an opening in the mist, I was soon after enabled 
 to perceive the route which it would be necessary for me 
 to take, in order to retrace my steps ; and on which I 
 thankfully proceeded, although it became shortly after as 
 thick as ever ; but, before I had gone far, it again entirely 
 cleared up ; and I was thus enabled, after a tedious walk, 
 and not until it was quite dark, to rejoin the waggons. 
 Two men had been sent out in quest of me, but I did 
 not fall in with them until I had reached the foot of the 
 mountain. In the course of my scramble I picked up, 
 on some of the highest points, several specimens of agate, 
 which were lying about on the surface in great quanti- 
 
3S2 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 ties. They occur generally in small irregular pieces, about 
 the size of a nutmeg, and appear to be very transparent. 
 From this circumstance, I have given the valley the 
 name of Agate Vale. 
 
 Sunday, 11th, 
 
 " Be careful for nothing ; but in every thing, by prayer and supplica- 
 tion, with thanksgiving, let your requests be made known unto God." 
 — (Philipp. iv. 6.) 
 
 Hence, ye vain corroding cares, 
 
 Never more my heart oppress ; 
 The word of God a balm prepares 
 
 For every hour of deep distress. 
 
 A throne of grace is there revealed. 
 
 Where Jesus sits to answer prayer ; 
 ' Tis but to come and to be healed. 
 
 And leave our anxious burdens there. 
 
 And oh ! how full the promise runs — 
 
 In every time of need draw near, 
 And I will deal with you as sons. 
 
 And banish every doubt and fear. 
 
 Nought that is needful I restrain, 
 
 And you may ask for all you need ; 
 None ever came to me in vain; 
 
 My promise you may always plead. 
 
 But let not prayer alone ascend ; 
 
 Shall we the cup of blessing drink, 
 And thankless our petitions end ? 
 
 No more upon ourmercies think ! 
 
 Acceptance we could never gain ; 
 
 A fiery sword would bar the way. 
 Had not the blood of Jesus slain 
 
 Procured access whereby we pray. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 333 
 
 And never can we fully know, 
 
 Until we reach the realms of love, 
 The debt of gratitude we owe 
 
 To such an Advocate above. 
 
 Well then with prayer may praise unite — 
 
 Our highest privilege while here; 
 In Heaven 'twill be our chief delight, 
 
 Eternity itself endear. 
 
 So shall that perfect peace be ours, 
 
 Which none but suppliants fully share ; 
 
 And we shall deem our happiest hours 
 Were those that we have spent in prayer. 
 
 Morning. — English service in the tent Afternoon, — 
 Kafir ditto in the open air. 
 
 Monday, 12tk. — Went out in two parties to explore a 
 road. This time I was attended by two of my people, a 
 Hottentot, and a Zoolu. My horse having had such a 
 severe lesson in the antelope step on Saturday, I thought 
 it but fair that it should not be repeated to-day ; and, 
 indeed, as it turned out, he would only have proved an 
 incumbrance. As we ascended, the effect of the new and 
 the old grass divided by the river, which had obstructed 
 the burning, was singular, and had all the appearance of 
 the distinguishing colours of two contiguous countries on 
 a map. Never do I remember to have had a more diffi- 
 cult scramble ; in many places it was necessary only to 
 regard the actual rocks over which I was clambering: the 
 precipices on each side were too fearful to be contemplated 
 for a moment. After all this toil I was again disappointed 
 in obtaining a glimpse of the country beyond : the ridge 
 
 THE mm nmwm mission ubdary 
 
 m Riverside DriveJei ]fork 27, N. Y. 
 
334 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 upon which I was standing suddenly terminated at my 
 feet, in a perpendicular chasm, which, until I reached the 
 brink, had appeared to be connected with an opposite 
 pinnacle, adjoining the crest of the Giant's Cup. To 
 return by the way I had come I considered as impossible ; 
 and it was this conviction which in part had induced me 
 to proceed thus far : there appeared, however, to be no 
 alternative. The descent was commenced by letting myself 
 down one or two of the most difficult places ; but the worst 
 was yet to come. Just at this critical point, one of the 
 men most providentially discovered a less perilous route, 
 by which we were enabled to reach the valley in safety. 
 Bare and sterile rocks occupy the highest elevations of these 
 mountains ; but the middle and lower regions are scantily 
 clothed in detached patches with trees, chiefly the iwotea 
 grandiflora, which grows from five to twelve or fourteen 
 feet in height. Many of the heaths are very beautiful ; 
 but did not strike me as differing from those which I have 
 met with in the Cape Colony. The most common bear a 
 white daisy-like flower. Bamboo from ten to twelve feet 
 high are found near the banks of the river. The most 
 remarkable is a tree which is evidently a connecting link 
 between the palms and the ferns: the nearest approach 
 that I have seen is the Zamia or Kafir-bread tree ; but 
 this is evidently a variety, the leaves of each branch being 
 precisely those of the fern, while those of the Kafir-bread 
 tree partake of the palm. The trunks of those in ques- 
 tion, which are only found on the lower slopes and valleys, 
 are similar to the palmyra — but seldom exceed six or seven 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 335 
 
 feet in height ; and, when blackened by the burning of the 
 grass may easily be mistaken for a man at a distance. 
 Though disappointed in my chief object, I was not a little 
 gratified by the peculiar grandeur of the mountain scenery, 
 which exhibited in great variety many of the sublimest 
 characteristics of Alpine regions, — the rocks, in many 
 situations, being rent and scattered about in shapeless 
 fragments and in others standing erect, like the ruins of 
 ancient castles. Their general composition, as far as I 
 could ascertain, was compact and soft limestone j the former 
 abounding with minute particles of quartz. While we 
 were on the summit a column of smoke was observed to 
 rise from a distant point of the same range, towards the 
 S. W., probably some grass still ignited, as it is now evi- 
 dent that these extensive burnings must have swept over 
 the whole country from the inhabited districts near the 
 coast. We did not reach the bivouac until it was dark ; 
 and as no provisions could be taken, after nine hours of 
 nearly constant walking and scrambling, I felt quite ready 
 for a mess of our gipsy Jure, The other party had already 
 returned, but without success. 
 
 Tuesday, ISth. — As no practicable road has been dis- 
 covered by either party, and there is every probability of 
 there being as broken a country for some distance on the 
 other side of these mountains as (contrary to every pre- 
 vious account) we have proved to be the case on this, I 
 have decided, after well considering our present position, 
 as well as our future prospects as to provisions, to send 
 back one waggon, with two spans of oxen, to Port Natal ; 
 
386 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 and to proceed with the remainder of the oxen, packed with 
 the provisions, &c., on foot. The baggage waggon I pur- 
 pose leaving here. This, under existing circumstances, 
 appears to be the quickest, and indeed the surest way of 
 reaching the colony. Our present distance, west of the 
 meridian of Port Natal, I consider to be about one hun- 
 dred geographical miles, the true course made good W. by 
 N. half N. ; and that by shaping a S. W. compass course, 
 we shall reach Stockenstrom's river, and enter the colonial 
 boundary by the district of New Hantam, which is the 
 nearest point. 
 
 Friday y I6th. — The rain, which continued nearly the 
 whole of Wednesday, prevented us from making the 
 necessary preparation for packing the oxen, &c. The cold 
 was quite piercing, with a sharp frost during the night. 
 Yesterday, after much previous practice with stuffed bags 
 and a great deal of trouble, the oxen were at length packed, 
 their noses having been bored for the purpose ; and in the 
 afternoon we commenced our new mode of travelling. 
 To an indifferent spectator our appearance at this time 
 would have been somewhat ludicrous : but few out of the 
 whole number of oxen were decidedly quiet under their 
 burdens, while by far the greater part were rebellious ; 
 and in consequence spanned in two and two, with the 
 tractow between, and led in the usual manner, with the 
 hope of keeping them thus under sufficient controul. 
 Between the two front pair the camp kettle was suspended 
 from the yoke ; and to the horns and yokes of the rest 
 many of the lighter articles — such as mats, tin mugs, &c. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY^ 
 
 were attached. We had not, however, proceeded far when 
 some of the latter floundered in crossing a rivulet, and 
 one regularly packed, from which better things were ex- 
 pected, with a violent effort dislodged his burden ; and, in 
 the struggle to disengage himself from it altogether, rent 
 the greater part into shreds with his horns and feet. My 
 driver, Richard King, was still limping from a kick he 
 had received in the course of this morning's training; 
 and at once perceiving, from the difficulties attending this 
 first essay, that we were likely to have much trouble by 
 the way, and that in all probability more than half the 
 provisions would be damaged, I was induced to give up 
 the attempt, and returned, with the intention of taking 
 on both waggons, and endeavouring to cross the mountains 
 at another point ; and, should this still be found imprac- 
 ticable, to follow their course, keeping as near them as 
 possible, until we reached the colony in the neighbourhood 
 of the Stormberg. The vicissitudes of climate are here 
 very great : yesterday the heat was almost tropical ; to-day 
 the wind from the S. W is high, and we are all suffering 
 from the cold : the natives nearly benumbed. 
 
 About nine this morning we broke up our bivouac, and 
 taking our final leave of Agate Vale, with its romantic 
 rocks and precipices, proceeded, as soon as we had turned 
 the mountains which margin this sequestered valley, in a 
 S. W. direction by compass. Before noon we reached a 
 Very rocky stream, in the attempt to ford which the bag- 
 gage-waggon was thrown over. Happily nothing material 
 was broken ; and the provisions escaped with but a trifling 
 
 z 
 
338 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 wetting, though most of the other things were thoroughly 
 soaked. As soon as it was entirely lightened, the sides 
 were lashed down to the bed ; and, with the united strength 
 of ourselves and the oxen, it was again placed upon its 
 wheels and drawn up the bank. The other waggon 
 crossed by a better ford, soon after discovered at a short 
 distance above ; and here of course it became necessary 
 to remain a sufficient time to repair damages, and dry the 
 bedding, &c. This morning, while riding in front of the 
 waggons, I picked up the handle of a native hoe, which 
 appeared to have been long exposed to the weather: 
 although in itself a trifling circumstance, it could not be 
 viewed without interest in this solitary wilderness ; and I 
 regard it either as an indication of our approach to the 
 habitable abodes of man, or as a memento of a race now 
 extinct, or driven by the invader far from the land of 
 their nativity. 
 
 Afternoon. — We had not proceeded more than four 
 miles when we were obliged to cross another river, which 
 I consider to be still the Umzimcoolu ; that which we 
 forded this morning being a smaller stream, and appear- 
 ing to fall into it at no great distance below. To this I 
 have given the name of Cyrus Ford *. Spanned out soon 
 after sunset. Distance travelled about fifteen miles — 
 general course, S.W. Road good over open downs, with- 
 out trees. 
 
 Saturday, V^th. — I do not recollect ever to have suffered 
 so much from cold as during the past night. Some water 
 * Prom my interpreter, George Cyrus. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY, S39 
 
 which remained in the bucket was frozen a quarter of an 
 inch thick. A South African waggon is but a poor de- 
 fence against wind, every part being moveable and well 
 adapted for admitting currents of fresh air in ail direc- 
 tions ; and this being my only dwelling for the time being, 
 no fire that could have been kindled would have availed. 
 As the last stick was consumed in cooking our supper last 
 night, we moved off this morning fasting. The weather 
 was again warm, and the sun powerful ; but, after travel- 
 ling about ten miles, we found ourselves not more than 
 two or three from our last night's bivouac— a succession 
 of steep and rocky precipices frequently impeding our 
 progress, and being the usual termination of the most 
 even and promising-looking downs. In the course of these 
 disappointing circuits, I was, at one time, quite startled at 
 the appearance of a rugged mountain which I have named 
 the Giant's Castle, as seen over an intervening hill. Its 
 resemblance to Edinburgh Castle, from one or two points, 
 was so striking that, for the moment, I could almost fancy 
 myself transported to Prince's Street — an illusion which, 
 as it passed my mind, made me more than ever sigh for 
 the termination of the tractless wilderness, and the cheer- 
 ing sight of the abodes of man. Crossed with some diffi- 
 culty a small rivulet, and spanned out on the opposite 
 side. 
 
 Afterfioon. — Crossed a stream which appeared to unite 
 itself with the river I have taken to be the Umzimcoolu, 
 further down. On gaining the opposite bank, our curiosity 
 was greatly excited by the appearancest of human foot- 
 
 z 2 
 
340 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 prints in the sand. From these marks, it was evident 
 that two persons, accompanied by a dog, had very recently 
 forded the stream in a contrary direction to that we were 
 taking. The general conclusion was, that they were 
 bushmen, who had either traversed the mountains in quest 
 of game, or were the inhabitants of some neighbouring 
 district on this side of the Quathlamba range. In the 
 course of this day's journey we fell in with several harte- 
 beests and elands, as also a herd of gneu, eleven in number. 
 The latter are known in the colony by the name of wilder- 
 beest (wild beast) ; a most indefinite appellation, which 
 has been given to them by the Dutch. About sunset 
 spanned out under some hills in the neighbourhood of 
 both wood and water. As several lateral ridges are here 
 observed to branch off to the S. E., like buttresses from 
 the main range, the prospect of finding a practicable pass 
 through the mountains in this direction is more cheering. 
 Travelled twenty-one miles — general course, S. W. 
 
 Sunday, 18^^. 
 
 " Can God furnish a table in the wilderness ?" — (Psalm Ixxviii. 19. 
 See also Isaiah xlv. 17, 18.) 
 
 How sweet when kindred hearts unite, 
 In God's own house of prayer and praise ! 
 
 What holy joy — what calm delight — 
 To each that hallowed hour conveys I 
 
 How sure the promise-— precious word ! — 
 « Where two or three for prayer shall meet. 
 
 There are my choicest gifts conferred, 
 And there my presence shall be sweet I " 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 341 
 
 But are there, then, no streams that flow 
 
 For weary pilgrims by the way ? 
 Is there no ear to heed their woe — 
 
 No voice to answer when they pray ? 
 
 Ah, yes I omnipotent to save, 
 
 The Lord our Refuge still is near, 
 Alike to solace on the wave, 
 
 Or in the wilderness to cheer I 
 
 How oft a table there he spreads, 
 
 With angels' food our strength renews ; 
 
 Around our drooping spirits sheds 
 Refreshing showers of heavenly dews. 
 
 Though oft we seem, like Ishmael, left 
 
 Alone to languish and to die ; 
 Of every outward means bereft. 
 
 E'en there the living streams are nigh. 
 
 And Jesus oft himself becomes 
 
 Our sanctuary and priest ; 
 Not only scatters children's crumbs. 
 
 But furnishes, and 'tends the feast I 
 
 Grace makes the howling desert bright — 
 
 An Eden bloom where all was drear ; 
 It soothes in sorrow's darkest night. 
 
 And chases every anxious fear. 
 
 For ever then that grace impart, 
 
 No more thy presence, Lord, deny; 
 Oh never from my soul depart — 
 
 I cannot want if Thou art nigh I 
 
 Morning — English service in the tent \— Afternoon — 
 Kafir ditto in the open air. 
 
 Monday, IQtJi, — The level of the country has gradually 
 
34^2 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 ascended since yesterday afternoon, and we were to-day in 
 great expectation that we had at length gained the wished- 
 for pass. Appearances were certainly favourable — we were 
 enabled, with the waggons, to ascend almost to the height of 
 some of the rocky eminences, which I was inclined to con- 
 sider as a part of the main range, and, finding a deep valley 
 before us, I left the party to span out, and climbing over 
 a long and craggy ridge to the right, reached some table 
 land. The result of this two hours' scramble was still 
 disappointment. It proved to be only a collateral ridge, 
 between which and the real Quathlamba a series of steep 
 and rocky chasms precluded the possibility of approach. 
 
 On these heights several plants of indigo were growing, 
 similar to those so abundant in the neighbourhood of 
 Port Natal, where two or three species are found. 
 
 Afternoon. — There being no choice, we crossed the 
 neck, and by a very steep descent entered a narrow 
 valley between high mountains, from which, after crossing 
 the stream that wound through it, we had some difficulty 
 in extricating ourselves, the entrance being so narrow, and 
 the night closing in upon us before we had emerged 
 from the defile. Travelled twenty miles — general course 
 S.W. 
 
 Tuesday y 9.0th, — Completed the descent which we had 
 been unable to do last night, having been obliged to span 
 out on sloping ground ; and, on reaching the flat below, 
 twice crossed the stream which was winding through it, 
 and soon after a branch of the same. Near this spot 
 some burnt sticks were observed, so methodically arranged 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 343 
 
 near the skull of an eland, that there seemed little doubt 
 that a fire had here been kindled by some wandering bush- 
 man or other native, in order to dress the meat of the animal 
 that had been killed. As the ridges continued to run off 
 to the south-east, to avoid a considerable circuit we 
 crossed the only practicable one ; but it was a severe 
 labour for the poor oxen, requiring both spans to each 
 waggon on ascending, and no less than three wheels to be 
 locked as we descended on the other side, where it was 
 necessary to apply reims to the sides, in order to keep 
 them from falling over. On gaining the first even ground 
 we spanned out. From our present position, and the 
 tendency of all the streams we are now crossing, I consi- 
 der that they fall into the Umzimvoobo. — Rocks still 
 sandstone, with fine particles of quartz. 
 
 Wednesday y 2\st, — We were prevented by a storm of 
 heavy rain, attended with thunder, from completing the 
 descent yesterday afternoon, which with the usual pre- 
 paration of locking three wheels, and holding on ropes, 
 was this morning effected, the last slope being just as 
 difficult and precipitous as the first. Having crossed 
 the stream which divided the base of the mountain from 
 another, up which it was necessary to toil, we gained 
 a more level country, traversing downs, until we again 
 reached the same stream further to the westward, where 
 we spanned out. One solitary hartebeest, with a few 
 bucks (ore buck), alone were seen. 
 
 Afternoon, — The route again becoming very intricate, 
 and requiring much inspection, we were unable to proceed 
 
344 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 far, as the sun had nearly set when we gained the neigh- 
 bouring height, when we halted for the night. Distance 
 travelled, tw^elve miles — general course, W, 
 
 Fridmj, 2Srd, — Finding yesterday morning that a con- 
 tinued barrier of steep rocks prevented all progress to the 
 south-west, we again descended, and following the wind- 
 ings of a steep acclivity, skirted on our right by the river, 
 forcing its passage by a series of cataracts over the huge 
 fragments of rock that encumbered its bed, we proceeded 
 up the ravine, anxiously looking for an outlet. Hemmed 
 in on two sides by steep and rugged mountains, we were 
 still enabled for three miles to continue our course to the 
 w estward ; but here a stop was at once put to all further 
 advance, the mountains uniting near this point, and 
 presenting nothing but a confused mass of crags and 
 precipices, towering to a considerable height. To span 
 out was obvious — nothing further was practicable for 
 waggons: parties, how^ever, were soon detached in dif- 
 ferent directions ; but after a toilsome and difficult scram- 
 ble to the summit of the neighbouring heights, which 
 proved to be our unyielding friends, the noted Quath- 
 lamba, we all returned with the same unfavourable 
 report that it was utterly impossible to proceed. Level 
 spots indeed there were — and could the waggons by any 
 means have been conveyed to the top, it is probable that 
 for five or six miles they might travel without difficulty ; 
 but, then the descent ! — and the complete labyrinth of 
 rocky precipices which seemed to intersect the country 
 in every direction, made it evident that the same labour 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 345 
 
 must be repeated again and again, before^ we could hope 
 to surmount the difficulties with which we were beset. 
 While on this fruitless search, numerous traces of horses 
 and cattle were observed ; and Jacob reported that he had 
 traced a well-beaten path to the brink of a cave, which 
 appeared to be inhabited. No time was lost in exploring 
 this unexpected haunt ; and following the winding foot- 
 path for about half a mile further up the valley, we sud- 
 denly reached the mouth of a cavern, formed by a huge 
 slab of rock jutting out from the precipice, the interior 
 of which had been ingeniously partitioned off by trunks 
 and branches of trees, so as to form four separate rooms 
 or compartments. Marks of fire were everywhere visible : 
 remnants of mats, bunches of Indian corn, cooking 
 bowls, a head-plume and armlet of hair, with several 
 other articles, but more especially the traces of the horses, 
 sufficiently proved who had been the late occupants of this 
 singular place of refuge. It could have been no other 
 than a party of Amakosa, who had retreated into this 
 mountain fastness ; and a more well-chosen place for 
 defence it is scarcely possible to conceive. 
 
 The cave itself could contain at least one hundred 
 persons ; and from the irregularity of the approach, and 
 the numerous masses of rock lying detached about its 
 mouth, its very existence might long have been concealed, 
 w^hile in the immediate neighbourhood there is good and 
 ample pasturage for a numerous herd of cattle. From 
 various appearances, I am of opinion that they could not 
 have quitted the spot more than six or seven weeks pre- 
 
346 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 viously ; had it been otherwise, we should have been 
 completely at their mercy — and Kafir mercy is unfortu- 
 nately but too well known. With respect to their move- 
 ments, but two conjectures could be formed ; they had 
 either abandoned their rock refuge on the notification of 
 peace with the colony, or with the intention of concen- 
 trating their scattered forces in a place more favourable 
 for general combination. The former I consider as the 
 most probable ; but while a doubt remains on the sub- 
 ject, it is sufficient to deter me from proceeding any 
 further in a south-westerly direction, as from reports 
 received when last at Bunting, and more especially from 
 the avowal of Kheeli's spies, the tribe of the late Hinza 
 were meditating a retreat to the northward, and would 
 probably, ere this, have occupied the whole country from 
 the head of the Kei to the mountains, directly across our 
 track. The time had now arrived to decide whether or 
 not it would be advisable, under all circumstances, to pro- 
 secute the present intention of reaching the colony by 
 crossing the Quathlamba range. This, it was evident, 
 could only be effected by abandoning the waggons and 
 packing the oxen ; but as they had already proved so 
 refractory on comparatively plain ground, it was exceed- 
 ingly doubtful, if, with all our exertions, we could urge 
 them over the mountains without losing the greater part 
 of our supplies. I never longed so much for a Spanish 
 " borico ; " but even then, deceived as we had been by 
 every previous account of this country (having encoun- 
 tered nothing but steep mountains where open plains were 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. Si7 
 
 reported, and actually laid down in the maps), there was 
 little probability of meeting with any very even country 
 throughout the whole intervening route to Stockenstrom's 
 river. The only prudent course seemed to be to endea- 
 vour to make the coast by the nearest route (a south-east 
 course) ; and when thus assured of our actual position, to 
 make the best of our way once more to Bunting, in the hope 
 of the Kafir war having in the meantime terminated, and 
 the usual road to the colony being again open. Having 
 finally come to this determination, we took our leave of 
 the rocks and precipices of Quathlamba, and, retracing our 
 steps, yesterday afternoon traversed open downs until 
 some time past sunset, when we spanned out. Several 
 paths worn by the Kafirs were observed by the way. 
 To the ravine, in which the cave was discovered, I have 
 given the name of Cavernglen." Distance travelled 
 fourteen miles — general course, E. E. by E. half E. 
 
 This morning crossed a stream, apparently a branch of 
 a larger, issuing from the mountains more to the west- 
 ward, and which, from its general course and size, I con- 
 sider to be the Umzimvoobo; its source cannot be far 
 from the position we occupied yesterday morning. Con- 
 tinued our progress over open downs without trees ; herds 
 of gneu in all directions, in one of them I counted thirty- 
 seven ; two shots were fired, but without effect. When 
 seen at full gallop, with their heads down, their long 
 white tails floating in the wind, and the necks and fore- 
 heads thickly covered with long shaggy hair, they have a 
 
348 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 most ferocious appearance. On gaining the heights we 
 had a fine view of the Quathlamba range, which, as far 
 as they were visible, appeared to run in one continuous 
 line due east and west by compass. The highest points 
 (Saddle-back and the Giant's Cup) I should not suppose 
 were more than 4000 feet from the level of the valley, 
 probably not so much. A remarkable detached peak has 
 been in view, bearing by compass E. by S. On our right 
 is an extensive undulating plain bounded by mountains, 
 through which the river I take to be the Umzimvoobo is 
 observed to make many windings. One of my people 
 (Georgo), who had accompanied the last expedition of 
 the Zoolus against Tpai, recognised it as the spot where 
 the guides lost their way, and in consequence the army 
 was obliged to return. 
 
 Afternoon, — Several gneu in sight. On riding towards 
 them they often stand and snort for some time, and then 
 suddenly plunge, kick up, and lash their tails, and in an 
 instant are off at full gallop, making the dust fly as they 
 sweep over the hills. Compared to our late difficulties all 
 seemed now smooth and plain, indeed, in the direction we 
 are now travelling, open undulating downs generally lay 
 in our way ; the slopes, however, are often very steep and 
 rocky. Soon after sunset reached a valley, where we 
 stopped for the night ; we had taken the precaution of 
 carrying wood in the waggon, or we should have been 
 unable to have procured any this evening. Travelled 
 twenty-one miles — general course, S. E. half S. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 349 
 
 ON LEAVING THE QUATHLAMBA MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Although we toiled in vain to clamber 
 Across the steeps of proud Quathlamba, 
 
 Still that rugged vale we trod» 
 Where treacherous Amakosa sought 
 A refuge from the sword, they brought 
 
 Just recompense for deeds of blood. 
 
 Deep in the mazes of that dark defile, 
 Hid by a huge gigantic pile 
 
 Of rocky fragments strewed around, 
 A yawning cavern stood revealed, 
 Where long the foe had been concealed, 
 
 And many a trophy there we found. 
 
 The cave was black with smoke and flame, 
 Each grassy couch remained the same 
 
 As though they'd just been sleeping there 
 And bowls, and plumes, and corn we found. 
 As they had left them strewed around, 
 
 Beside their rocky lair. 
 
 Oh I could those crags the tale unfold. 
 Of all tbat passed within that hold ; 
 
 How oft on Abaloongu's * race 
 Were threats and bitter curses heaped. 
 As frantic round their fires they leaped, 
 
 Burning t' avenge their foul disgrace. 
 
 But all is still — and now again 
 The beasts of prey resume their den, 
 
 By fiercer men thus dispossessed ; 
 Where once was heard the Kafir's shout 
 A dreadful silence reigns throughout — 
 
 A solitude that quite oppressed ! 
 
 * The general term for white men among all these tribes. 
 
350 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Adieu, ye rocky heights — adieu I 
 Your cloud-capped tops I love to view, 
 
 For there my Maker's power I trace ; 
 Firm as your base His word remains. 
 And as your streams refresh the plains. 
 
 Unbounded flows His sovereign grace. 
 
 What though no human voice is there, 
 Of all your wonders to declare, 
 
 And waft the breath of praise; 
 As long as earth's foundations stand. 
 You'll witness bear of Him who planned, 
 
 And who alone your peaks could raise. 
 
 Saturday, 24<tk. — This morning before we started a 
 gneu was killed, the flesh of which was soon after sus- 
 pended at the back of the waggon. Continued over open 
 downs, skirted by mountains ; troops of gneu prancing 
 about in all directions ; spanned out at nine. 
 
 Afternoon.— A^ppearsLUce of the country the same; counted 
 seventy-six gneu from the spot where I stood ; there must 
 have been many more in the neighbourhood. About midway 
 took a last look at the Quathlamba ; they were soon after- 
 wards hid by the mountains we were approaching ; at this 
 time the peak over Cavernglen bore N.W. by N. by 
 compass. Having collected sufficient fire-wood by the way, 
 we spanned out about sunset on the bank of a rocky river. 
 Travelled twenty-one miles — general course, S. E. 
 
 Sunday, 25th, 
 I will never leave thee nor forsake thee." — (Hebrews xiii. 5.) 
 
 Oh ! for faith to walk aright, 
 
 Seeing Him who's always near; 
 Guided — not by erring sight — 
 
 Till the promised day appear. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 351 
 
 How 't would sweeten every care, 
 How 't would every joy enhance, 
 
 Did we know the Lord was near, — 
 Like Peter feel His loving glance I 
 
 Could such languid prayers ascend ? 
 
 Could our hearts remain so cold ? 
 Could we thus requite our Friend ? 
 
 Did we but His face behold ! 
 
 Hear thy gracious Saviour say, 
 " My people I will never leave," 
 
 I will keep them night and day. 
 
 And every want and doubt relieve." 
 
 Sweet bequest ! — though pilgrims here 
 
 In a dreary desert land, 
 There is One who loves us near 
 
 To uphold us with His hand I 
 
 May these words our spirits cheer ; 
 
 In every cloud a bow reveal : 
 With Christ so nigh, we need not fear, — 
 
 His balm can all our sorrows heal I 
 
 Lord, I believe ! — yet faith bestow, 
 Pardon my unbelief and sin ; 
 
 More of Thy love and truth I'd know, — 
 Dispel the pride that lurks within ! 
 
 Throughout the way, be Thou my guide, 
 My earliest and my latest thought : 
 
 With Thee for ever I'd abide. 
 
 And tell of all Thy love has wrought I 
 
 And when I see Thee as thou art. 
 And nought but charity abides ; — 
 
 What rapture will that sight impart I — 
 rU seek no other bliss besides I 
 
 Morning — English service in the tent ; 
 
 Kafir service in the open air. 
 
 — Afternoon — 
 
352 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Mondmj, 26t7i. — Crossed the river, and soon after 
 another rocky stream running into it A herd of gneu 
 made off on our approach to the plain, where we spanned 
 out. 
 
 Afternoon. — Soon after crossing the stream near 
 which we had stopped, ant-hills were again observed ; 
 none had been seen in the neighbourhood of the Quath- 
 lamba ; — one solitary gneu ; — we are now leaving the open 
 downs, which they seem to prefer, and are traversing a 
 more broken country. Crossed another stream, and soon 
 after sunset made our bivouac ; no wood but what had 
 been collected by the way* 
 
 Travelled twenty-two miles —general course, south. 
 
 Tuesday ^^^th. — Crossed two steep mountains, but 
 without difficulty, as they were round topped and covered 
 with grass. Spanned out on a valley about noon. 
 
 Afternoon, — A continuation of hills, some very steep ; 
 the appearance of the country evidently changed ; — large 
 timber in the ravines, and many plants and flowers which 
 grow only in the vicinity of the coast. This morning we 
 were reduced to the necessity of cutting up a broken 
 yoke in order to cook the breakfast, but such expedients 
 are not now likely to be repeated. Water we have always 
 found abundant. The gneu have now entirely deserted 
 us, this country being ill adapted for their wild racing. 
 Excepting that they greatly enlivened the solitude, we 
 have no reason to regret their absence, as nearly all were 
 yesterday made ill by partaking of the flesh. The 
 ■-flavour is so similar to that of beef, that I should 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 353 
 
 scarcely have known the difference ; but as all suffered in 
 the same manner, and it was not considered by the rest of 
 the party as tougher than the meat they had been accus- 
 tomed to, I have no hesitation in ascribing the cause to 
 this new diet. A thick mist coming on, we spanned out 
 rather earlier than usual. About an hour and a half 
 before we bivouaced for the night we crossed a waggon 
 track. 
 
 Wednesday y ^Z^th. — Thunder and light rain during 
 part of the night : in the morning it cleared up sufficiently 
 to proceed. Having been so long unaccustomed to a 
 wooded country, the note of the birds, though often not 
 very melodious, was cheering, and met the ear like the 
 voice of an old acquaintance. Hilly country. Spanned 
 out about one. Close to this spot was one of the ^ee- 
 Jems so common in the neighbourhood of Agate Vale. 
 It was growing in a pit, and is the only one I have since 
 seen. 
 
 Afternoon. — Travelled until a thunder-storm, which 
 had been long gathering among the mountains to the 
 northward, overtook us, but were unable to find any place 
 of shelter until after sunset, when we gained a valley by 
 a very deep descent. Travelled twenty miles — general 
 course, S. by E. i E. 
 
 Thursday, ^^th. — Prevented by the rain from leaving 
 our last night's bivouac until the afternoon ; but we had 
 not proceeded many hundred yards when the baggage- 
 waggon was thrown over by a rock on ascending the hil], 
 which was very slippery and uneven. As everything was 
 
354 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 obliged to be taken out before it could be again placed on 
 its wheels, a considerable delay was occasioned. When 
 again en route , we passed several old foot-paths, in one of 
 which the foot-prints of a native were observed. On an 
 opposite ridge, the site of a former village was distinctly 
 traced with the different footpaths diverging from it ; — 
 country waved ; — broken into open round-topped hills, 
 which obliged us to make many circuits to avoid the 
 hollows between. At sunset spanned out, and sent ten 
 span of oxen to drag in an eland that had been shot at 
 some distance from our track. Travelled ten miles — 
 general course, S. by E. | E. 
 
 Friday, 30th. — Unable to set out early on account of 
 the rain. Passed the site of several villages, supposed to 
 have been those whence Charka drove the Amapondas. 
 Descended a very steep hill, when my waggon was all 
 but overturned, and halted on the opposite bank of a 
 stream running through the narrow valley. The thorny 
 mimosa is now again common ; it has not been observed 
 further inland during this journey. 
 
 Afternoon, — Made but little progress ; toiled up steep 
 hills but to descend by as difficult slopes ; and again 
 crossed the same stream, which we take to be the Um- 
 secaba. Slate rocks are now observed in the beds of all 
 the streams. Georgo (the leader of my waggon) has 
 fallen in with a prize, having discovered the bones of 
 an elephant lying among some trees near the route. The 
 two teeth, which are perfect, I have allowed him to take 
 for his benefit in the waggon, and feel glad at his good 
 
ZOOT.U COUNTRY. 
 
 355 
 
 fortune, as he has proved himself very active and atten- 
 tive. Went on till sunset. Travelled twelve miles — ge- 
 neral course, S. ^ E. 
 
 Saturday^ ^\st. — Passed a difficult but romantic defile^ 
 in the course of which we were obliged three times to 
 cross the same river which we forded yesterday. I should 
 greatly have enjoyed the scenery, but for the trouble and 
 anxiety of finding a road for the waggons that followed. 
 On leaving the river both spans were required to tow 
 each of them up the opposite hill ; notwithstanding 
 which labour, we were unable, from the broken nature of 
 the country, to pursue our proper course, but obliged to 
 wind considerably to the northward, and w^hen we 
 spanned out had not made a better course than N. E. 
 Travelled about twelve miles. 
 
 We were now again in a situation of some difficulty, — 
 by the best calculation that I can make, not more than 
 about thirty miles from the coast ; but unable to reach 
 it with waggons, without making a very circuitous route. 
 Having been disappointed in obtaining the latitude, not- 
 withstanding I have two sextants with me ; one being only 
 cut for ISl"^ 30' ; the other, a pocket one, for 1^5^ 0', 
 while (with an artificial horizon) an angle of at least 136' 
 is now necessary. Having no watch to regulate distance, 
 and having for the past month been merely guided by a 
 small pocket compass, my computed reckoning, under 
 such circumstances, is not likely to be very correct. By 
 proceeding with the waggons we might be thrown farther 
 
 A A 2 
 
356 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 from the coast, and the unfortunate reckoning become 
 still more puzzled. I therefore decided on leaving them 
 both at this place, and with the tent and a few days' pro- 
 visions upon pack oxen pushing on with a small party 
 directly for the coast, in order to ascertain our actual 
 position. Should this prove, as I hope, to be in the 
 neighbourhood of the Umsecaba, I propose sending back 
 two of the people with the necessary instructions to the 
 party remaining with the waggons, directing them to 
 follow, and making the best of my way to Bunting. 
 
 Sunday f Nov, 1st, 
 
 " Faint, yet pursuing." — (Judges viii. 4.) 
 
 How aptly does this word describe 
 The wrestling soul by conflict tried, 
 
 Yet stayed upon his God ! 
 'Tis thus with e'en the boldest saint, 
 Left to himself he can but faint, 
 
 And sinks beneath the rod ! 
 
 But He who wept at Lazarus' grave 
 Vouchsafes his ready arm to save, 
 
 And mitigate the cup ; 
 Touched with our weakness and our woe, 
 A balm for all He can bestow, 
 
 And hold our footsteps up ! 
 
 Though oft rebuked and chasten'd here. 
 We kiss the rod with filial fear, 
 
 And own it was in mercy sent ! 
 And though cast down and oft perplexed, 
 We reap the blessing that 's annexed, 
 
 And deeper of our sins repent ! 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 357 
 
 Thus sifted, purified, and tried. 
 From all his selfishness and pride. 
 
 The Christian's weaned from all below ; 
 And walks more closely with his God, 
 Avoids the snares on which he trod, — 
 
 More of his heart is brought to know I 
 
 The fainting- soul fresh courage takes. 
 His most besetting sin forsakes. 
 
 And grasps a firmer hold 
 On that sure Rock in Zion laid, 
 Where all our hopes for heaven are stayed, — 
 
 By past experience made more bold I 
 
 Though oft nor sun nor stars appear. 
 And all around seems dark and drear, 
 
 And no small tempest on us lay, 
 'Tis thine, O Lord ! the storm to calm, 
 And keep our trembling souls from harm, 
 
 And safely to the shore convey. 
 
 'Twas in the cloud they so much feared. 
 Thy brightest beams on earth appeared 
 
 And gladdened every eye ; 
 And soon with Peter we shall say, 
 'Tis good that here awhile we stay, 
 
 Since Thou thyself art nigh ! 
 
 Lord ! sanctify my every grief. 
 In Thee alone I 'd seek relief, 
 
 Upon thy promise stayed I 
 And when this term of trial's o'er. 
 And sin and sorrow reach no more, 
 
 In all Thy love will be displayed 1 
 
 Morning — English service in the tent ; 
 Kafir service in the open air. 
 
 » — Afternoon — 
 
358 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Monday, 2«r7.— This morning left the waggons at about 
 ten o'clock for the coast, with three pack oxen and a party of 
 eight, including myself. Descended into the valley, which, 
 from its intricacy, obliged us twice to cross the river which 
 wound through it. The oxen behaved better than I had 
 expected, and, after gaining the opposite heights, we 
 passed the sites of several deserted villages and garden 
 grounds. Both yesterday and to-day we have seen several 
 of the Kafir finch, a singular bird, about the size of a 
 sparrow, having two long tail feathers, which it sheds 
 during the winter ; the plumage is a glossy black. 
 Although they appear to fly with an effort, their progress 
 through the air is peculiarly graceful, the long tail regu- 
 lating their speed and imparting a kind of measured 
 dignity to all their movements. In passing through 
 Kafir-land I saw several of these birds. Continued our 
 route in nearly a S. E. direction, notwithstanding the 
 thick mist and rain which had prevailed throughout the 
 day, and having traversed a more open country, chiefly 
 following the ridges, we descended for shelter about 
 sunset into a deep ravine. Here the labyrinth of long 
 grass and bushes through which it w^as necessary to urge 
 our way, added to the steepness and slipperiness of the 
 ground, occasioned a frequent packing and repacking of 
 the oxen, so that the night came upon us before we had 
 erected the tent or kindled a fire, although thoroughly 
 drenched with the rain which now happily ceased. Tra- 
 velled twenty- two miles — general course, S. E. 
 
 Tuesday, 3/y/. — The scramble to extricate ourselves 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 359 
 
 from this ravine was a trial of strength to both men and 
 oxen. In the hope of preserving one dry garment I had 
 attempted to ride, but my only saddle girth giving way 
 nothing was left but to wade middle-deep in wet grass, 
 the saddle being only prevented from slipping off by 
 buckling the girth under his neck. This day also proved 
 rainy, so that a dry thread was not to be found among 
 us, and, fearing to remount in this state, I walked during 
 the greater part of the day. In the afternoon it cleared 
 up, and, being on an eminence at the time, a momentary 
 glimpse of the sea was discerned. The joy which this 
 afforded to us all can scarcely be described, and I desire 
 to thank my God for this earnest of success, and for having 
 thus far prospered our way. Conducted by an elephant 
 path we soon after descended through a wood into another 
 valley ; and having, not without some difficulty, forded the 
 stream which flowed through it, halted for our mid- day's 
 bivouac on the opposite bank. 
 
 The underwood is here abundant, and the nature of the 
 country favourable for game ; pheasants and partridges 
 have been seen in great numbers both yesterday and 
 to-day. The romantic dells and ravines, which at short 
 intervals intersect this beautiful district, would under 
 other circumstances have afforded me much gratification, 
 but unfortunately my attention was too often drawn away 
 by the floundering of the oxen and the necessary adjust- 
 ment of their burdens. While partaking of our hasty 
 meal on the banks of this stream, a whole community of 
 baboons (dog-faced) made their appearance on the opposite 
 
360 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 hill ; some slowly moving with an inquisitive look towards 
 us ; others deliberately seating themselves upon the rocks, 
 as though debating on the propriety of our unceremonious 
 trespass upon their domain. I counted eight, some of which 
 from their size must at least have been grandsires. On 
 quitting this valley by another rocky clamber, open downs 
 were again before us indented by rugged ravines. Stopped 
 for the night near a small stream which we reached soon 
 after sunset. Travelled twenty miles — general course, 
 S. E. 
 
 Wednesday, Uli — Fair weather. Soon after quitting 
 our bivouac the sea was again distinctly seen at a 
 distance, in a direct line of not more than seven miles ; 
 but, although we were apparently so near, the greater 
 part of the day was consumed in finding a road to the 
 beach. No sooner had we made a considerable circuit to 
 avoid an impassable chasm, than our progress was again 
 stopped by a still more precipitous ravine. Some of these 
 were strikingly grand ; and so suddenly approached that 
 we were frequently standing on the brink of a precipice 
 seven or eight hundred feet in depth, of the existence of 
 which we had, at a few hundred yards distance, been 
 wholly unconscious. Into one of the most striking of 
 these a thread-like cataract, unbroken in its descent, was 
 precipitated over the rocky rampart ; the splash of its 
 clear waters, as they mingled with the stream below, being 
 only recognised by the reverberating echo, a thick screen 
 of luxuriant wood concealing its base. During many of 
 our wanderings this day we were indebted to our former 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 361 
 
 pioneers the elephants, their paths invariably conducting 
 us by the shortest route to the first practicable ford across 
 the numerous rivulets which lay in our way. About this 
 time our position with regard to the coast was recognised ; 
 it appeared evident that we were on the left bank of the 
 Umsecaba, and at about four o'clock we succeeded in 
 gaining the waggon track near the beach. We had 
 scarcely time to pitch the tent when a thunder storm came 
 on, and, as the tide was too high for crossing, we took up 
 our quarters here for the night. Great cause have I, 
 indeed, for thankfulness at this merciful termination of 
 so long and so anxious a journey. The hand of my God 
 has indeed been upon us for good. The relief to my mind 
 I can scarcely express — not that I ever for a moment 
 doubted His watchful care and guidance, but I felt the 
 responsibility of attempting to conduct so many persons 
 with means apparently so inadequate. The tribes of 
 baboons which issued from their haunts to salute us during 
 this day's journey were quite extraordinary. At one time 
 I counted twenty old and young collected together, pro- 
 bably, like ourselves, enjoying the sunshine after the 
 late rains. Some of the elders were of large size, and 
 one, who was strutting about erect, was full five feet in 
 height. On one of these occasions an interesting domestic 
 scene took place. On reaching the brow of a hill, some 
 of the party had suddenly disturbed a large group of these 
 creatures. Their impulse and actions were quite human ; 
 on the first alarm the mothers hastily ran back, snatched 
 up their young, and, bearing them in their paws, scampered 
 
362 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 off with all their speed. Although the generality of the 
 flowers in this country are scentless, there is no district 
 which I have passed throughout this journey which has 
 not produced many of great beauty. In the early part 
 several varieties of Haemanthus were very common, richly 
 carpeting the ground with their bright pink and crimson 
 colours; the Gladiolus, with its white, blue, or amber 
 bells, is also very general; and even among the most 
 rocky parts the elegant Ixia pendula, bearing a profusion 
 of lilac blossom, makes a splendid appearance. The Le- 
 ontice is quite a weed in many parts, but contrasts well 
 with the foliage of the underwood, among which it grows 
 to a great height. Plants of Lachenalia, bearing a cluster 
 of red pendent bells, are also very common ; but there 
 is one of great beauty, which, until I can learn the 
 botanical name, I must call the Feather plant. The 
 flower is represented in Fig. 4, Plate 4. The stamens 
 are each distinctly feathered with a glossy violet down, 
 and beautifully relieved by the bright yellow of the 
 anthers. Its general height is about twelve or fourteen 
 inches. During the last two days the Haemanthus 
 have quite enamelled the ground, and many of the 
 plants above mentioned have also been seen. Surely 
 Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of 
 these ! Well indeed may we exclaim with the pious 
 Psalmist — " O Lord ! how manifold are thy works, in 
 wisdom hast thou made them all." 
 
 Travelled twenty miles — general course, S. S. E. 
 
 Thursday, 5th. — Sent two men back with directions 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 363 
 
 for the waggons, and, crossing the river at the mouth, 
 continued our route towards the Ainaponda country. 
 Near this spot the Grosvenor East Indiaman was lost in 
 1782. Two of the guns, and several pigs of ballast, are 
 visible at low water. Proceeding a little further, we 
 passed a stranded whale, lying high up among the rocks, 
 part of the blubber only (about the head and shoulders) 
 having been taken off — their whitened bones are fre- 
 quently seen strewed along the beach. The late heavy 
 rains had so filled the rivers, that, although it was about 
 the spring tides, we found the Umsecaba but barely 
 fordable at low water, and were obliged to go considerably 
 round in order to cross the next, though a much smaller 
 stream. Both this and the second river to the south- 
 ward of the Umsecaba are free from rocks at their 
 entrance, and appear to be accessible for boats : in one of 
 them, I am informed, a boat has landed for the pur- 
 pose of procuring wood and water. 
 
 In the evening we reached Umnooka's, and truly rejoiced 
 was I again to behold the habitations of men, and the 
 human face divine, although disfigured by red clay and 
 ornaments of fat. My former hut was now again pre- 
 pared, and I crept into it with as much satisfaction as 
 though it had been a well-furnished lodging, more espe- 
 cially as I was again thoroughly wet through, and the 
 rain was still descending. After the lapse of ten weeks 
 since I was in this neighbourhood, I had fain expected to 
 have heard that the Kafir war was at an end; but by 
 
364 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 the representations here given, it appears to be still 
 undecided, so that my sanguine expectations of speedily 
 reaching the colony are again dissipated. Umnooka on 
 this occasion retrieved his character, and treated us very 
 handsomely. Travelled twenty-four miles. 
 
 Friday, 6th, — On the cessation of the rain, about ten, 
 we set forward. Judging, from the slipperiness of the 
 ground, the steep hills, and intricate woods through which 
 it would be necessary to pass, that but little progress 
 would now be made by the pack oxen, I procured two 
 guides from the first Amaponda village we came to, and 
 leaving the party to follow as they could, pushed on with 
 them to Mr. Fynn's place, which T reached soon after 
 sunset. Unfortunately, these guides, as likewise the other 
 brought from Umnooka's to conduct the party behind, 
 knew only the lower road, which is more thickly wooded 
 and hilly than that which I had formerly travelled ; and 
 even this it became necessary to leave for some distance, in 
 order to avoid a river which at this time was unfordable. 
 The greater part was a perfect scramble — so close and 
 tangled were the trees that, in forcing a passage, both my 
 saddle pockets were scraped off, and my poor horse, led 
 by one of the guides, was so frequently on his haunches 
 in a sliding attitude, that I thought it almost impossible 
 that he could escape without a broken limb. On passing 
 some ground sown with sweet potatoes, my two companions 
 eagerly raked them up with sticks, rubbed off the mould, 
 and then commenced eating them raw — their obliging 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 365 
 
 offer to join them in this impromptu meal was, however, 
 declined, in anticipation of something more digestable at 
 the end of my journey. 
 
 Saturday, ^th, — Set out early with two fresh guides. 
 Found the Umzimvoobo considerably higher than when 
 I last crossed — it has, I understand, already been impass- 
 able for eight or nine days. 
 
 ON VIEWING THE UMZIMVOOBO FROM THE HEIGHTS. 
 
 What radiant band of peaceful light 
 
 Is that which beams so bright beneath ? 
 
 'Tis Umzimvoobo in his might, 
 
 Spreading around his silver wreath. 
 
 In mountains cradled — placid still 
 
 His faithful breast their image holds ; 
 
 He seems to stray against his will. 
 Entangled in their rocky folds I 
 
 'Tis thus the living streams of grace, 
 
 Though straitened in their passage, glide ; 
 
 Opposed — obstinicted — still they trace 
 Their heavenward course, whate'er betide. 
 
 But soon will dawn a brighter day — 
 And faith discerns the promise nigh — 
 
 When every mountain shall decay, 
 And valleys shall be raised on high ! 
 
 And peace shall flow a mighty stream, 
 Till all the earth with joy resound ; 
 
 And rays of righteousness shall beam, 
 Where darkness to be felt was found, 
 
366 
 
 JOURNEY TO THK 
 
 Soon may that glorious day appear ! 
 
 Hasten thy chariot wheels, O Lord ! 
 Thy people's prayer in mercy hear — 
 
 Send forth thy light and truth abroad. 
 
 As waters fill the ocean now, 
 
 Then peaceful floods of joy shall flow ; 
 And every knee to Thee shall bow, 
 
 And every heart with rapture glow ! 
 
 On reaching the Gumkulo, found Faku in grand con- 
 sultation in the midst of a large assembly, seated on the 
 ground. He met me on my approach, and taking my 
 hand as I alighted, again seated himself, and motioned me 
 to do the same, apparently highly amused at my unex- 
 pected return. After a few minutes of signs and broken 
 Kafir intermixed, our conference ended, and I made the 
 best of my way to Bunting, where I arrived at about three 
 o'clock, to my great satisfaction and the no small surprise 
 of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton. Thus has mercifully ended this 
 most anxious journey. All our grain was expended, and 
 no other supply remained, excepting a few of the calves, 
 which were kept in reserve for a time of need. 
 
 Sunday, 15th, 
 
 " Hope that maketh not ashamed." — (Romans v. 5.) 
 
 There is a hope that never fails — 
 
 A sure and certain stay ; 
 Not all the grief that life assails 
 
 Can dim that heavenly ray. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 E'en in the darkest night 'tis seen, 
 
 And brightest then appears ; 
 The very clouds that intervene 
 
 Reflect the light that cheers. 
 
 It is that hope which faith imparts, 
 
 By Jesus' blood made sure ; 
 That glows within our aching hearts, 
 
 And makes us feel secure— 
 
 A hope, through Christ, of pardon sealed, 
 Of strength sufficient for our day, 
 
 That grace shall make each trial yield 
 Experience in the heavenly way. 
 
 This is the hope the Christian knows, 
 
 While journeying through this vale of tears ; 
 
 His solace 'mid the deepest woes, — 
 The antidote for all his fears 
 
 How sweet the inward calm that reigns. 
 When we can cast on God each care ! 
 
 No trial harms — for faith explains. 
 And mark^ the hand of mercy there ! 
 
 Full well he knows not aught shall fail 
 Of every promise that he pleads ; 
 
 The tempest may awhile prevail, 
 
 But rest and peace the storm succeeds. 
 
 Thanksgiving, then, his sweet employ — 
 With grateful praise liis heart o'erflows ; 
 
 The hope that grief could not destroy. 
 With purer, brighter ardour glows. 
 
 What then that meed of heavenly love, 
 Which through eternity shall swell ; 
 
 The joy of ransomed souls above, 
 
 Who in their Father's presence dwell ! 
 
368 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Oh think, my soul, on that bright day. 
 
 And, though oft fainting, follow still, 
 The promise will not long delay — 
 
 Jesus will every word fulfil. 
 
 So shall each Bochim by the way, 
 
 To grace an Ebenezer raise. 
 And God alone will be thy stay — 
 
 His truth and faithfulness thy praise ; 
 And when from earthly trials freed, 
 Thou wilt be blessed with Christ indeed ! 
 
 Conducted the native services morning and afternoon. 
 
 Monday, 16tk, — The large assembly in which I found 
 Faku and his principal chiefs on the 7th, had, I under- 
 stand, been convened in order that they might undergo 
 the ceremonies previous to going out to war ; and on this 
 occasion, among other equally absurd rites, each indivi- 
 dual received several gashes across the leg. It appears 
 that Tangwani (Faku's brother), in conjunction with some 
 minor chiefs, have, contrary to Faku's wish, been making 
 clandestine attacks upon the Amatembu ; in the last, which 
 has recently occurred, they were not only unsuccessful, 
 but lost several men ; and their opponents are now follow- 
 ing up their success by sending out small nightly parties 
 to steal cattle in this neighbourhood. Not many nights 
 ago the drag-chain was stolen from a waggon standing 
 close to the Mission Buildings, and the horses taken from 
 the cattle-fold, close to the native huts, by a party of these 
 freebooters. So much enraged was Faku on hearing the 
 account, that he declared that the natives residing on the 
 place should be responsible for the safety of the station ; 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 369 
 
 and that if anything should happen either to Mr. Tainton 
 or his family, they should answer with their lives. Since 
 the marriage of his daughter to Tpai, a more friendly 
 feeling seems to exist between the Amapondas and Ama- 
 h5ash, who are now said to have arranged a simultaneous 
 attack upon all the tribes on the sea coast, between the 
 Umtagychi and the Bashee rivers, professedly to chastise 
 this daring insult upon his children,^' This morning I had 
 ridden to the Gumkolii ; and on my return was most agree- 
 ably surprised at the arrival, a few minutes previously, 
 of Mr. Palmer's servant, announcing the near approach 
 of himself and Mr. Davis (Wesleyan missionaries) direct 
 from the colony. Attended by five other mounted natives, 
 they soon after made their appearance ; and their cordial 
 welcome, circumstanced as we were, may well be imagined. 
 All assembled to congratulate them, not only on their safe 
 arrival, but on being the voluntary bearers of the first 
 intelligence of our release from a state little differing 
 from captivity. Notwithstanding all the reports of the 
 natives to the contrary, it appears that a treaty has been 
 entered into with Kheeli ; and since the 10th of May last 
 all actual hostilities have ceased. The country, however, 
 was in too unsettled a state, and the feelings of the in- 
 termediate tribes too much excited to have rendered it 
 prudent for any, excepting an armed force, to have 
 traversed the country previously. They had been six- 
 teen days on the road — purposed a speedy return ; and I 
 felt happy in the opportunity thus offered me of accom- 
 panying them back to Graham's Town. In the midst of 
 
 B B 
 
370 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 this pleasing intelligence heavy tidings have reached rne, 
 for which, however, I was not altogether unprepared. My 
 valued friend, Mr. Berkin, is no more ! — the vessel which 
 conveyed him from Port Natal, in March last, having never 
 been heard of since. I have thus lost a most esteemed 
 friend and companion ; but I doubt not he has gained an 
 immortal inheritance undefiled, and that fadeth not away. 
 So unexpected a termination of his mortal career calls 
 loudly upon me also to " prepare to meet my God ! " What, 
 though no earthly memorial shall record the day or the 
 place in which he exchanged his tabernacle of clay for a 
 house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens — his 
 mental acquirements, his amiable character, and, above 
 all, his genuine piety, will embalm his memory, and render 
 it dear to all who were privileged with his acquaintance ; 
 and his name is already enrolled among those of whom, in 
 the language of inspiration, it has been said, These all 
 died in faith." " The righteous man perisheth, and no 
 man layeth it to heart ; and merciful men are taken away, 
 none considering that the righteous is taken away from 
 the evil to come. He shall enter into rest." — Isaiah, Ivii. 
 1, 2. 
 
 Tuesday, l^th. — The locusts have been and still are 
 very numerous in this part of the country : they had not 
 advanced beyond the Umtata when I was last here, but 
 have now extended their ravages to the Umzimvoobo. 
 The Amapondas make no scruple in eating them, although 
 they will refuse fish, deeming it unclean : the usual me- 
 thod is to grill a number of them together on the fire. 
 
zooia: country. 371 
 
 The black-beetle of this country has a particular instinct, 
 well known I conclude to naturalists, by which it will roll 
 a ball ten or twelve times its own size, conveying it to a 
 considerable distance, and that on the most scientific prin- 
 ciples ; one of them bearing with its head and fore-legs 
 upon the ground, pushes it forward by its hind-legs, while 
 the other crawls upon the ball in an opposite direction ; 
 thereby imparting by the weight of its body an additional 
 impetus to the advancing hemisphere, beyond which it 
 never ascends. These balls are genei'ally composed of 
 manure ; and it is supposed that in them their eggs are 
 enveloped ; but this fact I have not ascertained. A Newton 
 himself could not have displayed a more practical acquaint- 
 ance with the power of gravity ; but surely He, from 
 whom Newton and all the wise-hearted of the earth have 
 obtained their knowledge, has implanted this remarkable 
 instinct. 
 
 This afternoon the waggons arrived ; they had been 
 obliged to make a considerable circuit to the eastward, 
 reaching the coast at the mouth of the Um.tavoomi. The 
 oxen have frequently been obliged to swim in fording the 
 rivers, and my baggage of course has been as often sub- 
 merged. As the missionaries now here are the only indi- 
 viduals who have as yet attempted to pass through Kheeli's 
 country since the cessation of hostilities, and there is 
 little doubt that had they not been recognised as such 
 they would have been stopped, I give up all idea of for- 
 warding the waggons, at least for the present, and make 
 
 B B 2 
 
372 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 preparations for starting with them on horseback to- 
 morrow morning. 
 
 Thursday, 19th, — This morning Faku, with a few- 
 attendants only, visited the station. His first request was, 
 that I would give him some cattle, having doubtless heard 
 of the arrival of my w^aggons with four spans, an unusual 
 number. An ox, as is customary, was presented to him 
 by Mr. Tainton, and killed on the spot for himself and 
 party ; but still urging his request, notwithstanding I had 
 given him a string of uniform buttons, I desired an ox 
 to be brought, which was presented under a condition of 
 its being immediately killed. This unfortunate beast, 
 while drinking in the Tugala, before it came into my 
 possession, had been so beset by alligators, that it was a 
 w onder to all, who had observed its perilous situation, that 
 it had ever escaped their fangs. When nearly over- 
 powered, and about to be drawn into the stream, as a 
 last resort, a musket was discharged, when they all in- 
 stantly quitted their prey, the last alligator biting his tail 
 short off as he followed his companions into the water. 
 The torture which this privation must occasion at this 
 season, when the flies are so numerous and troublesome, 
 had long decided me on having him killed as soon as his 
 services were not absolutely requisite. As soon as Mr. 
 Palmer had finished his conference with Faku, I took my 
 leave also. He gave me his hand with great cordiality, 
 requesting me to inform the Great Chief that he should 
 certainly make an attack on all the tribes between him 
 and the coast, as far as the Bashee ; but that he should 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 373 
 
 not molest Ferdana, as he had originally intended. We 
 were thus detained until half-past twelve, when I once 
 more took my leave of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, to whose 
 hospitality I have been so often indebted ; and for whose 
 continued kindness, though themselves suffering many 
 privations consequent upon the exhaustion of their accus- 
 tomed supplies, I shall ever feel grateful. On turning to 
 take a last view of the Missionary Station from the neigh- 
 bouring heights, I could not but feel that I was leaving a 
 spot which had often proved a welcome asylum, and on 
 which I can never reflect but with a sense of gratitude 
 and pleasure. Although fine when we started, the rain 
 soon recommenced ; and from the quantity which had 
 already fallen, the paths in many places were complete 
 water-courses, and so slippery that it was with difficulty 
 we could prevent our horses from falling. The night had 
 closed upon us before we reached the Umtata ; and so dark 
 was it on descending the wooded slope to the river, that 
 I more than once, while leading my horse, struck against 
 the haunch of that which was preceding, unconscious 
 that it was immediately before me. The river was said 
 to be impassable ; at all events, under present circum- 
 stances, it would have been madness to have made the 
 attempt. There are no inhabitants in this part, and as 
 the rain, which had never intermitted, was still falling, 
 we were obliged to content ourselves with the question- 
 able protection of a clump of mimosa bushes, where, 
 without a fire (there being no possibility of kindling oi^e), 
 we made our bivouac for the night. 
 
374 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 Friday^ 20fh. — Every article of my clothing, with the 
 exception of a camblet cloak, being perfectly saturated 
 with rain, I thought it prudent, instead of lying down in 
 this humid state, to divest myself of all, and rolling myself 
 up in the said cloak, with the saddle for a pillow, I slept 
 soundly until day-light, when, from the continuation of the 
 rain and the profuse dripping from the trees, I found the 
 saddle completely wet, and the water trickling under my 
 head. Having so many inducements to quit our comfort- 
 less quarters, which we agreed to name the " Bathing- 
 house," we soon descended to the river, which we found 
 but barely practicable, and, wading across breast high, 
 succeeded in dragging the horses through the rocky 
 channel, in which operation our entire paraphernalia was 
 for some time under water. 
 
 Had the missionary buildings at Morley been still in 
 existence, we should soon have restored the contents of 
 our saddle-bags — but all, excepting the chapel, had been 
 burnt during the late disturbances ; and we had to con- 
 tent ourselves with the shelter of a native hut at a short 
 distance from the station. The ascent from the river to 
 Morley (about four miles distant) is steep, and commands 
 some of the finest scenery in this country. Perpendicular 
 cliffs of a red colour, rising among trees and underwood, 
 among which are many of the euphorbia class, margin the 
 stream. Several cataracts, now filled by the rain, were gush- 
 ing from the highest points ; these, with the graceful wind- 
 ings of the impetuous river, traced for some distance from 
 the heights, combined to form a most enchanting and 
 romantic prospect, which a short interval from rain at this 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 3^/5 
 
 time enabled rrie in some degree to enjoy. This is the first 
 Amatembii village in this direction, and to the narrow 
 limits of a native hut we were confined as close prisoners, 
 on account of the rain, for the greater part of the day, 
 enduring a temperature approaching to that of an oven, 
 which for the sole benefit of our clothes, both on and 
 off, we were necessitated to bear. Had we not crossed the 
 Umtata at the moment we did, it is probable that we 
 might have been detained some days, as it is reported to 
 be still rising. Our present distance from Bunting is 
 estimated at forty-two miles. 
 
 Saturday, 21st. — ^The weather being fine, we set out 
 at nine, but were considerably delayed in the route, 
 several petty chiefs, who were detained by the rain from 
 visiting Mr. Palmer (their late missionary) at the village, 
 as previously arranged, now way-laying us on the path. 
 Each came accompanied by several attendants — the chiefs, 
 as we approached, placing their shields and assegais 
 before them on the ground, and then seating themselves 
 until we came up, the attendants of each standing the 
 whole time close in the rear, firmly grasping the bundle 
 of assegais on which they were leaning. I was particularly 
 struck with the commanding and intelligent appearance 
 of an individual in one of these groupes, whom I after- 
 wards understood from Mr. Palmer was named Darka 
 (brother of the head of the village where we had slept), 
 and whose character exactly corresponded with his expres- 
 sion of countenance. He had, it appears, been a frequent 
 visitant at the Mission-house, where, it \vas evident, from 
 
376 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 his remarks and inquiries, that in point of intellect he was 
 far in advance of the generality of his countrymen. So 
 great was his thirst for knowledge, that he had requested 
 Mr. Palmer to take him with him on his next visit to the 
 colony, and had actually accompanied his waggon part of 
 the way, when, on account of the breaking out of the 
 Kafir war, it was thought imprudent for him to advance 
 beyond Clarkebury. 
 
 The natives of the different villages near which we 
 passed were civil, occasionally bringing amas at our 
 request, which, though of a very inferior quality, we were 
 glad to obtain. Although most of the baggage was dis- 
 tributed upon led horses, several of them knocked up, so 
 that, unable to reach Clarkebury, as had been intended 
 this evening, we turned aside to a wooded hill, under 
 which were a few huts, at a quarter-past seven, where we 
 proposed remaining until Monday, the Missionary Station 
 being about seven miles distant. 
 
 Sunday, %^nd, 
 
 " When thou art converted strengthen thy brethren." — (Luke xxii. 32.) 
 
 What a sweet constraining power 
 
 Binds the hearts of Christians here I 
 How it soothes each trying hour 
 
 To feel that we have friends so dear ! 
 
 Bound by one law — the law of love, 
 
 They help each other by the way ; 
 The strength that they obtain above 
 
 Gladly to others they convey. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 377 
 
 All members of one glorious Head, 
 Each shares the pang his brother feels; 
 
 Rejoices when the trial 's sped, 
 And owns the hand afflicts and heals. 
 
 What sweet communion we might share, 
 How many hours of comfort know, 
 
 Did each another's burden bear — 
 Did love through all our actions flow. 
 
 How often to Emmaus led 
 
 Our ardent steps would willing speed, 
 To speak of One who once has bled. 
 
 That rebels might from sin be freed. 
 
 And who can tell till that great day, 
 When every thought shall be confessed. 
 
 How many would have turned away. 
 But for a word in season blessed? 
 
 If, then, our hearts to God are turned — 
 If Jesus we have precious found, 
 
 And much of grace and goodness learned. 
 Let Christian charity abound. 
 
 Like Samson's withes — though weak alone, 
 United, we shall strength impart. 
 
 The grace and truth which each have known. 
 Will cheer and comfort every heart. 
 
 Thus oft refreshed from Baca's fount, 
 
 While journeying through this vale of tears, 
 
 To Pisgah's top we oft shall mount, 
 And gaze away our doubts and fears. 
 
 And when our souls shall one by one 
 Before our Father's throne appear, 
 
 The song that was on earth begun. 
 Shall only be completed there. 
 
378 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 And oh, wliat rapture there to meet 
 
 The partners of our grief and care ; 
 To cast our crowns at Jesus' feet, 
 
 And own 'twas grace that brought us there ! 
 
 Mr. Davis, unassisted by an interpreter, performed the 
 Kafir service in front of our hut. 
 
 Monday, 2Srd, — Fearing detention from the height 
 of the Bashee, we started early. The river was, indeed, 
 full — my interpreter and myself were the first across. He 
 was soon swept off his legs, and only gained the opposite 
 bank by swimming ; at the same moment I was struggling 
 against the current, scarcely able to retain my footing, 
 when two stout fellows of the Amatembu tribe kindly 
 came up, and placing their backs against mine, supported 
 me through the deepest part, and I soon after gained a 
 rocky ledge, by which the channel is here divided — the 
 other branch I was obliged to swim. 
 
 My object in preceding the party was to encourage the 
 people who accompanied Messrs. Palmer and Davis, not 
 one of whom would attempt the passage, although two 
 of the Amatembu had just crossed from the opposite side 
 before their eyes. After a considerable detention, I was 
 joined by my companions, who, at both rivers, had each 
 been assisted by two men, and every thing being safely 
 conveyed across, we again mounted, and soon reached 
 the Mission-house at Clarkebury. The distance from 
 Morley is about forty-six miles, 
 
 A message, announcing our arrival, having been pre- 
 viously sent to Ferdana, in about a couple of hours he made 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 379 
 
 his appearance, accompanied by a respectable ti*ain, all 
 well provided with assegais. His figure is tall and well 
 proportioned — his countenance puerile and vacant ; he 
 approached in somewhat a formal manner, preceding his 
 two brothers, who were closely followed by the rest of his 
 party. The three chiefs appeared in panther-skin mantles 
 (thefur inside), and each carried a single assegai in his hand. 
 How strangely do circumstances vary our relative position. 
 I was now in amicable converse with the very people 
 who, during my last visit to this place, are said to have 
 been meditating my death. This account, which I have 
 every reason to believe is correct, was brought to Bunting 
 after I had left for Port Natal, bv a native named 
 Sotchangan, and who declared that he was himself pre- 
 sent during the deliberation which took place on the 
 subject before Ferdana. 
 
 How gracious is that Providence, which protects us not 
 only from the arrow which flieth by day, but from the 
 unknown and not less fatal machinations of our fellow- 
 men ! 
 
 To this unpleasant subject no allusion of course was 
 made ; a fitter opportunity will doubtless occur for inves- 
 tigating this matter, as also the suspicion under which he 
 rests of having murdered the two messengers from, 
 Bunting. To obtain from Ferdana, either by loan or by 
 purchase, a supply of fresh horses was our aim, and the 
 conversation on this knotty subject was long and tedious ;, 
 at last he agreed to lend four as far as Kheeli's great 
 place. In the present state of the country, in daily 
 
380 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 expectation of attacks either from the Amapondas or the 
 Amahoash, it is probably as much as we could expect ; 
 and for which assistance I have agreed to give him a cow, 
 which I shall endeavour to send by the first opportunity. 
 The parley at length being ended, he retired with all his 
 people ; but although a messenger was immediately de- 
 spatched for the horses, there is little hope, from the dis- 
 tance at which they are kept, of their arriving before 
 to-morrow evening. A surprising change has taken place 
 in the face of the country ; — all is now green, which 
 when last here was parched and desolate. Still, however, 
 there is little to recommend the spot on which the mis- 
 sionary buildings are erected. This, I now understand 
 from Mr. Davis, was not from choice, — another site 
 having been selected for the purpose, but given up on 
 Vosani's expressing a preference for the present situation. 
 Having been so long accustomed to the scrupulous 
 honesty of the Zoolus and Amapondas, I was not pre- 
 pared for the loss of my bridle, which had suddenly dis- 
 appeared from the fence of the garden, where it had been 
 imprudently hung. I believe that the Amatembu are far 
 less addicted to theft than their adroit neighbours, the 
 Amakosa ; in all other respects, at least to a casual 
 observer, they are exactly similar. It should not, how- 
 ever, be omitted that Ferdana has adjudged a fine of two 
 cows to the person whom Gugu (charged with the care of 
 the station in Mr. Davis's absence) had detected in the 
 act of purloining a tin mug from the Mission-house. 
 Since we have been here a heavy thunder storm has 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 381 
 
 set in every afternoon ; they are said to be very frequent 
 in this neighbourhood. 
 
 Wednesday^ %5tlu — Left Clarkebury at half past 
 twelve, having been unable to procure the horses sooner. 
 We had not proceeded far, when we observed a number of 
 people collected about the huts of a village we were 
 approaching. On inquiry, we found that one of the 
 houses had been struck by lightning two days previously, 
 and that the witch doctor had just arrived to purify the 
 place, which was to be effected by killing a beast, feasting, 
 and dancing. Thorn bushes had been placed round the 
 hut in question, which was abandoned and not again 
 allowed to be entered. Providentially, no lives had been 
 lost. Other instances of this kind were noticed in my 
 journey up, while passing through the Amak5sa, in all 
 of which the houses had invariably been abandoned. It 
 is probable that the greater part of this country will 
 shortly be overrun with locusts ; the young insects are 
 innumerable, and in some places entirely covered the 
 ground ; insomuch, that many of the natives assured us 
 that they should not plant corn this year, as they were 
 not likely to benefit by the crop. 
 
 Among the cattle great losses have been sustained ; 
 occasioned, as it is said, by the unusual cold and heavy 
 rains ; probably, the circumstances of a state of warfare 
 may have contributed to the amount ; — the fact, however, 
 was obvious, — at every village, and frequently by the 
 way, heads and skeletons were strewing the ground ; but 
 chiefly in the cattle-folds, where many whole carcases 
 
382 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 were still remaining. There has been an equal mortality 
 I am told among the colonial cattle, while the districts 
 to the northward of the Bashee have been exempt. In 
 the afternoon we had a drizzling rain, and being now on 
 the skirts of the Amamaia tribe, we found the frontier 
 villages mutually abandoned. These people, of Ama- 
 tembu stock, though now independent, are a nest of 
 freebooters in friendly alliance with their southern 
 neighbours, the Amakosa, and possessed of all their 
 treacherous and pilfering propensities. So bitter are their 
 feuds to this day with their ci-devant brethren the Ama- 
 tembu, that the guides sent by Ferdana to escort us to 
 Kheeli's territory, were so apprehensive of ill treatment 
 that they left us at this point to proceed alone. After 
 crossing the Colosa, having travelled during the day 
 about twenty-five miles, we took up our night's quarters 
 in a dilapidated hut, the best that we could select, in one 
 of these deserted villages. 
 
 Thursday, 9^Qth, — Continued our route at sunrise, over 
 open downs, the country both yesterday and to-day being 
 generally bare of trees. We soon, however, reached an 
 inhabited district, which was first indicated by a bush- 
 buck, almost exhausted, crossing our path ; some dogs soon 
 after ascended the ridge in pursuit, followed at a short 
 distance by several natives, well provided with assegais, 
 evidently on a hunting expedition. Having satisfied 
 their questions respecting indaba (news), &c., we rode on. 
 Several other parties came up as we proceeded, all very 
 civil ; and some even approached us unarmed, although 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 383 
 
 each of our native attendants carried a gun. After rest- 
 ing the horses for about half an hour, we again continued 
 our route, and soon obtained a distant view of the walls 
 of Butterworth, this missionary station having shared the 
 fate of Morley during the recent war. As we approached 
 the ruins, a native upon a pack-ox, who had not before 
 perceived us, was so suddenly surprised at our appearance, 
 that, regardless of his beast, he instantly sprung from his 
 back, and in a few seconds was out of sight ; naturally 
 concluding that our intentions were not the most pacific. 
 Both here and at Morley, I had met with great kindness 
 from the missionary families ; and while riding over the 
 bricks and rubbish of the demolished buildings, bearing 
 evident marks of the conflagration, I felt much for them 
 and for the cause in which they have suffered : it was 
 indeed a melancholy satisfaction we were indulging, and 
 we soon instinctively turned aside from the blackened 
 walls to visit the garden, where an abundance of figs, 
 almonds, and peaches were rapidly advancing to a state of 
 maturity. But what delighted me the most was a luxuriant 
 hedge of roses covered with flowers and in great beauty, 
 the first I had seen since leaving the colony ; and the 
 very sight of which almost transported me again to my 
 native country, — though not indeed the land of the olive 
 and the vine, — still pre-eminently of the jessamine and 
 rose. 
 
 Leaving this interesting spot, about three miles to the 
 right, we reached the present residence of Kheeli — a 
 village containing only nine huts, all in a most wretched 
 
JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 and dilapidated condition, and still likely to be occupied 
 for some time without repair, as a part of the customary 
 respect paid to the memory of a deceased chief. Shortly 
 after our arrival, Kheeli made his appearance; it was 
 about the time of drinking milk ; his councillors and prin- 
 cipal men soon assembled near his mother's hut, and, seat- 
 ing themselves on the ground, formed a semicircle round 
 him, while he sent portions of milk to each, the baskets 
 being first placed before him by two servants, who, strange 
 to say, wore each a printed cloth round his waist, the first 
 attempt at civilised attire which has yet been made by 
 these inveterate sons of nature, and I trust will not long 
 remain a solitary example. Kheeli is a young man of 
 about twenty, tall and apparently of a mild disposition ; 
 somewhat graceful in his actions and of rather a Jewish 
 expression of countenance. As soon as the important 
 business of drinking curdled milk was ended, in which, 
 though served late, we had not been neglected, Kheeli, 
 with a few of his chief councillors, removed to the spot 
 where we had been sitting at a few paces from the 
 assembly, which gradually dispersed, and commenced a 
 long parley. News was eagerly inquired, as well from 
 the English camp as from their northern neighbours. 
 Having endeavoured to satisfy (for that is scarcely pos- 
 sible) all these various inquiries, a request on our part was 
 made for two horses, and a mounted guide to conduct us 
 across the Kei ; but all our endeavours, urged with the 
 promise of a present on reaching our destination, were 
 ineffectual. " Where are horses to come from ? We have 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 385 
 
 none" — was the reply. " The Amatembu have stolen 
 them — the English have taken them." In short, it had 
 evidently been determined that, at least, we should have 
 none. It was now proposed to leave one here which had 
 knocked up on the journey, but in the course of this 
 arrangement, which was agreed to, a singular coincidence 
 occurred — this very horse being recognised by Kheeli as 
 one of his own. It had been stolen from him by a party 
 of Abasootu, in one of their predatory expeditions across 
 the mountains, and had subsequently been employed by 
 the same people in a late attack upon the Amatembu, in 
 which they were defeated ; and this, with several other 
 of their horses, was captured by Ferdana. Had that 
 suspicious chieftain been aware of his real pedigree, he 
 would never have allowed him to have accompanied us on 
 our present journey. Not only is it prohibited during 
 the period of state mourning to renew the thatch of the 
 most dilapidated hut, but even the wholesome influence 
 of the besom is also forbidden ; and as this village had 
 been abandoned during the war, the condition of our floor 
 may be better imagined than described. As soon as it 
 was dark I made some attempt at repairing the roof, as 
 it was threatening rain, but the thatch was too scanty 
 and far between to do any thing effectually. In the even- 
 ing an ox was sent to us to be slaughtered, which proved 
 a very acceptable supply, as our people had been nearly 
 a day without tasting food, and our own stock was almost 
 exhausted. 
 
 Friday^ 26th, — Having last night been promised guides 
 
 c c 
 
386 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 to the Kei, we were anxious to proceed ; but as none had 
 yet been sent, we repaired to Nomesa's hut, where it was 
 understood that several of the councillors, although at an 
 unusually early hour, were assembled. Nomesa was Hinza's 
 principal wife, and is the mother of Kheeli ; and even 
 during the life-time of her husband is said to have had 
 great influence in the tribe. The hut was crowded ; and 
 although anxious to see this political lady, the smoke was 
 so dense that her person was entirely concealed : this, how- 
 ever, was no impediment to a long conversation which soon 
 commenced. Kheeli, who in her presence seems to have 
 little importance, coming in at this time, and lolling care- 
 lessly in one corner of the hut, she thus addressed me, 
 pointing to her son : — " We have no rest. You see that 
 child— he has no place — he is a baby. I am obliged to 
 carry him about in my teeth — his house is dead, and 
 we are all eaten up ! We wish to have a word to be at 
 rest, that we may cultivate the ground." I replied, by 
 reminding her " that they had already received a word 
 to be at rest; that the English had rested; and they 
 wished to see peace established." The councillors then 
 spoke in confirmation of their great woman's words, and 
 all in the same strain. They declared that they knew 
 not why these troubles had come upon them ; that they had 
 tahen nothing i and were quiet until they eaten 
 7ip " (a common expression for being impoverished). To a 
 stranger to their character, and to the real facts of the 
 case, such a pathetic and plausible appeal would doubtless 
 have excited commiseration, and kindled a generous in- 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 387 
 
 dignation at cruelties apparently so wantonly inflicted by 
 a Christian and a civilised nation, on one so unoffending 
 and helpless. But as I had been already sufficiently in- 
 itiated into their modes of address and arch duplicity, and 
 was tolerably well acquainted with the causes and leading 
 circumstances of the late war, my high sense of amor 
 pat7icB was by no means diminished ; and had my cheek 
 reddened at the time, it would have been occasioned by 
 the palpable falsehoods they were striving so systemati- 
 cally to uphold. The horses being packed, and every thing 
 ready, Kheeli, with several of his people, assembled before 
 our hut to see us go off. The favourable moment was 
 not lost ; and I was particularly delighted \vith the sim- 
 plicity with which Mr. Davis first gave out a hymn in 
 the native language, and then led all who were willing 
 to join in singing the praises of Jehovah. It was a happy 
 conclusion to our visit ; and surrounded, as we were, by 
 some of the most determined and ferocious characters in 
 all Kafir-land, it has left an impression on my mind which 
 I shall never forget. 
 
 As we proceeded the country gradually improved, being 
 more broken and clothed with trees in the ravines. Stop- 
 ped to rest our horses at a spot called Shaw's Fountain, 
 and within a few paces of the remains of the house in 
 which William Purcell, a trader, was wantonly murdered 
 by a native in July of the past year. As we approached 
 the Kei, the lads watching the cattle took the alarm ; and 
 it was amusing to see the rapidity with which several herds 
 on each side of the road were driven off into the wooded 
 
 c c 2 
 
388 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 ravines. They soon, however, gained confidence ; and in 
 spite of the guns came near, and loudly called for a 
 bazella (present). Mounted and bearing guns across their 
 shoulders, our native escort, for this country, had rather a 
 respectable appearance ; but what benefit we were to derive 
 from their weapons, in the event of an attack, I have yet 
 to learn. In defensive warfare their prowess was certainly 
 uncalled for ; but on two occasions they all dismounted, 
 drew up in a line, and made a vigorous attack upon a flock 
 of wild geese, which, strange to say, all flew off without 
 leaving them even a feather for a trophy ! 
 
 From the quantity of rain which has recently fallen, 
 and the state of the other rivers, we had little expectation 
 of finding the Kei in a fordable state, and were rejoiced 
 to perceive that it was only moderately high, enabling us 
 to cross without difficulty. The guides could not be in- 
 duced to accompany us across, but left us on the bank to 
 return home. We were now in the new province of Ade- 
 laide (the colonial boundary, since the late war, having 
 been extended to this river) ; and as soon as all our party 
 had gained the British side, we knelt down and offered 
 up a prayer of thanksgiving to the God of all our mercies, 
 by whose good providence w^e have been so mercifully pros- 
 pered and protected in our journey. We had started this 
 morning at twenty minutes to seven, and reached Fort 
 Warden (the first military post), about five miles from 
 the river, at a quarter to four, where we were kindly re- 
 ceived by Captain De Lancey, the officer in command. My 
 business with his Excellency the Governor being urgent, 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 389 
 
 Captain De Lancey kindly furnished me with an escort to 
 the next post, and an order to be supplied there with 
 fresh horses to King William's Town, the head quarters. 
 My own horse, notwithstanding all his toils (having ridden 
 him almost every day for these tw^o months past), came in 
 quite fresh, and with the additional weight of saddle-bags 
 galloped in front of the whole party. Here, however, I 
 left him to be brought on with the other led horses, my 
 companions intending to sleep here, and proceed by more 
 moderate stages. Being anxious, if possible, to reach 
 Graham's Town some time to-morrow night, I set out 
 again with my interpreter, escorted by two of the Cape 
 corps (Hottentots) at sunset, and reached King William's 
 Town at three in the morning, where, notwithstanding 
 the unseasonable hour, I was kindly w^elcomed by Mr. T. 
 Shepstone, the government interpreter. 
 
 Saturdmj, 9>Sth. — Colonel Smith, who since the termi- 
 nation of the w^ar has commanded the new province, re- 
 ceived me with great kindness, and took much interest in 
 the situation of affairs at Port Natal, affording me, in the 
 most handsome manner, a military escort for the remainder 
 of my journey to Graham's Towui. Here the changes 
 effected by the late " row w ith Kafirs," as it was elegantly 
 expressed to me by a colonial farmer, were still more appa- 
 rent than in the line of posts I had passed on the road. 
 The whole appeared like a dream — the very name of 
 King William's Tow^n was to me a novelty ; and what I 
 only remembered as the quiet abode of a missionary of 
 the London Society (Mr. Brownlie) is now metamorphosed 
 
390 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 into a military cantonment, half urban, half nomadic ; 
 here a line of mud huts ; there an enclosure of tents ; all 
 however well arranged, and apparently in high effective 
 order. That part of the mission-house which has escaped 
 the flames is repaired, and roofing ; and one room is already 
 appropriated as an office for the transaction of busi- 
 ness : while in the outskirts of the settlement several acres 
 of land have been brought into cultivation, and are yield- 
 ing good crops of oats, an excellent precaution where 
 forage of this description is so difficult to be procured. 
 After breakfasting in the colonel's marquee, I resumed 
 my journey at half-past ten. As the chain of posts, and 
 consequently the relays of horses, were nearer together on 
 the Fort Wiltshire road than on that which I had formerly 
 travelled, by Trompetef s and Committee's Drift, I had 
 an opportunity of crossing the Fish and Keiskamma rivers 
 considerably higher up, and traversing in a fresh direction 
 that extensive line of jungle and forest, which occupies a 
 considerable part of the country which is intersected by 
 the Fish river, and known throughout its whole extent 
 (about seventy miles) by the general appellation of the 
 " Fish river bush." To the skirts of this forest the 
 country is comparatively open, covered chiefly by patches 
 of the thorny mimosa, and affording in every part most 
 desirable sites for agricultural locations: all beyond is 
 wild and rugged, and, I may add, sombre in the extreme. 
 There are no relieving cliffs and plashing cataracts to cheer 
 the monotony — no curling smoke marks the approach to 
 a single habitation ; all wears a savage mournful aspect ; 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 391 
 
 and although the traveller is often reminded by the steep- 
 ness of the rout, and the sudden abruptness of the neigh- 
 bouring ravines, that he is traversing hills of no ordinary 
 character : so unbroken and impervious is the green mantle 
 which is cast over all, that he searches in vain for an 
 object to guide his bewildered judgment, and at last re- 
 verts to himself and his horse as the only approximate 
 means of fathoming the heights and chasms by which he 
 is surrounded. To say that this was once the frontier 
 of the colony w^ould scarcely be credited by any military 
 man ; and the very knowledge of such a fact would at 
 once prepare him for much of the consequent disasters 
 which have occurred. 
 
 Had the " ceded territory" comprised between the Fish 
 and the Keiskamma rivers been thickly lined with military 
 posts, it might at a considerable expense have been tenable, 
 though always liable to surprise ; but as this was not the 
 case, nothing could have been more encouraging to the 
 pilfering propensities of the Kafir, or more advantageous 
 to his nightly attacks. By the late most just and un- 
 avoidable war two essential benefits appear likely to accrue : 
 the permanent security of the colony from future aggres- 
 sion, and the eventual amelioration of the condition of the 
 bordering tribes. Both the labour of the missionary and 
 the industry of the trader will meet with that degree of 
 protection from the local Government which will render 
 them less liable to interruption, and thereby an intercourse 
 will be established with the natives, both within and with- 
 out our boundary, upon a far more permanent footing, tend- 
 
392 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 ing, under the blessing of God, to conciliate their friend- 
 ship — to elevate their character, and to win them from 
 habits of barbarism and cruelty — to embrace not merely 
 the outward customs of a civilised community, but the 
 far higher blessings of Christianity and true religion. 
 
 From the Kei river to Graham's Town, about one hun- 
 dred and sixteen miles, there are now seven military posts — 
 four of these have been lately constructed in the new 
 district ; they are all trenched, well protected by high 
 mud walls, and capable of repelling any Kafir force that 
 could be opposed. It was two o'clock on Sunday morning 
 before I reached Ay ton's Hotel at Graham's Town, having 
 ridden eighty-four miles since leaving King William's 
 Town. 
 
 Sunday, ^^th. 
 
 " Hitherto hath the Lord helped us." - (I Sam. vii. 12.) 
 
 How our lives with mercies teem, 
 
 Every moment 's fraught with love ; 
 Let our lips recount the theme, 
 
 Till our hearts are drawn above — 
 Till we in spirit can unite 
 With ransomed souls in realms of light ! 
 
 Had we but faith that could descry 
 
 A Father's hand in all we view, 
 How oft our grateful souls would cry, 
 
 The Lord has helped me hitherto ; 
 And Ebenezers we should raise 
 To Him whose mercies crown our days \ 
 
 Why have I so long been spared, 
 
 A worthless cumberer of the ground ! 
 Why have I so seldom shared 
 
 The griefs which others feel around ? 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 'Tis grace — and sovereign grace alone, 
 Such base ingratitude could own ! 
 
 Not unto us, may sinners say, 
 
 To us no power belongs ; 
 We ne'er had trod the heavenly way. 
 
 Or uttered one of Zion's songs, 
 Had not redeeming love applied 
 The fount that flowed from Jesus' side ? 
 
 Beneath the cross we'll constant cling — 
 
 No other name than Jesus know : 
 Thence all our choicest pleasures spring, 
 
 And streams of living waters flow! 
 If but the promise we believe. 
 All from His fulness we receive. 
 
 Nothing can our union sever — 
 
 Still the same unchanging Friend ; 
 Yesterday — to-day — for ever, 
 
 Jesus loves us to the end ! 
 Supported by His mighty power. 
 He keeps and guards us every hour ! 
 
 Oh ! for grace by faith to live 
 
 To Him whose blood my ransom bought, 
 
 Freely of his own to give. 
 
 Consecrate each word and thought. 
 
 By grace I hitherto have come, 
 
 And grace, I trust, will lead me home ! 
 
 Having transacted my business at Graham's Town, and 
 ascertained that his Excellency, Sir Benjamin D'Urban, 
 was still at Port Elizabeth, I set out on Wednesday, De- 
 cember ^nd, for that place, at three in the afternoon, and, 
 
394 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 riding through part of the night, reached Algoa Bay soon 
 after five o'clock on the following day — the distance is one 
 hundred and one miles. For the personal kindness which 
 I received from his Excellency, but especially for the 
 minute consideration which he paid to the subject of my 
 communication, and the anxiety he evinced to promote, 
 with all his influence, the observance of the treaty entered 
 into with Dingarn, and the general welfare, religious as 
 well as commercial, of the Zoolu nation and the British 
 settlement of Port Natal, I feel deeply indebted ; and 
 trust that it may please God to make him an instrument 
 of conferring the lasting benefits of civilisation, and the 
 unspeakable blessings of Christianity to the remotest parts 
 of this vast and benighted continent. 
 
 A vessel (the Dove) being then in the Bay, and bound 
 for Port Natal, his Excellency sent by her, to be forwarded 
 immediately to Dingarn, the following document, which 
 is the first official communication which has ever been 
 transmitted to any of the native powers beyond the im- 
 mediate frontier of the colony 
 
 " COPY. 
 
 " His Britannic Majesty's Governor of the Colony of the 
 Cape of Good Hope to the Chief of the Zoolus, 
 Dingarn. 
 
 " J REJOICE to hear of the good word which has 
 passed between the Chief and Captain Gardiner, and of 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 395 
 
 the treaty concluded between them for the town and 
 people of Port Natal. 
 
 " An officer on the part of the King of England, my 
 master, shall speedily be sent to Port Natal, to be in 
 authority there in the place of Captain Gardiner, until 
 his return, and to communicate with the Chief, Dingarn, 
 upon all matters concerning the people of Natal. By 
 him I will send to the Chief presents, in token of friend- 
 ship and good understanding, of which I hereby assure 
 the Chief, in the name of the King my master. 
 
 (Signed) Benj. D'Urban, 
 
 " Governor of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Given at the Cape of Good Hope, this 5th day of 
 December, 1835." 
 
 While at Port Elizabeth I had the pleasure of meeting 
 Dr. Adams, and Messrs. Grout and Champion, American 
 Missionaries, about to proceed also in the Dove to Port 
 Natal. His Excellency proceeded to Uitenhage on the 
 5th, and on Monday the 7th I set out for Cape Town, 
 stopping three hours at Mr. Vandereit's, the Civil Com- 
 missioner at Uitenhage, where I received the Governor's 
 despatches for England. During the remainder of the 
 journey to Cape Town, I averaged eighty miles each day, 
 taking my chance of the farmers' horses upon the road. 
 They are unshod, generally sure-footed, and well adapted 
 for such journeys. Three horses I found requisite— the 
 guide leading one carrying the saddle-bags ; but the 
 contents of these were so frequently submerged, every 
 
396 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 stream and rivulet being unusually swollen, tliat, although 
 1 commenced by occasionally spreading them out to dry 
 while the horses were changing, I soon grew tired of the 
 operation, and the greater part was mildewed on my 
 arrival on Saturday night at Genadenthal. Before day- 
 light, on Monday 14th, I was again on route. In point 
 of scenery this was by far the most interesting day during 
 the w^hole journey from Graham's Town. 
 
 The approach to the town of George over the mountain, 
 \vhich divides that district from the Lange Kloof, is fine ; 
 but I think the Fransche Hoek Pass is superior ; and 
 from this point to Stellenbosch, a distance of not more 
 than thirty miles, the ride is quite beautiful, — exhibiting 
 throughout some of the wildest and grandest characteris- 
 tics of African scenery, in striking relief, with cultivated 
 farms and vineyards, embosomed in oak plantations, and 
 enlivened with hedges of geranium and rose, luxuriant to 
 the very base of those natural buttresses which, on either 
 side, occasionally protrude their rugged outline far into 
 the bosom of this beautiful valley. Among the Dutch 
 farmers, throughout the country, I have invariably met 
 with the greatest civility : they w^ill not be driven, but 
 address them civilly, and you are quite sure of a cordial 
 welcome. A hearty shake of the hand by the good man 
 and his sturdy vrow at once makes you at home. The 
 tea-water is always ready ; and scarcely have the encou- 
 raging words " sit mynheer" been uttered, than it is duly 
 administered ; and I pity the fastidiousness of that tra- 
 veller who rises from a clean rubbed table, spread out 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 397 
 
 with coffee, excellent bread, butter, and eggs, and (if he 
 chooses to ask for it) most delicious butter-milk, and not 
 feel he has not only been refreshed, but abundantly satis- 
 fied. For a cup of tea or coffee they will receive nothing ; 
 but for a repast, such as I have described, and even where 
 a tough chop is added, although no charge is formally 
 made, a rix dollar (1,9. 6d.) is considered as a liberal equi- 
 valent. Asa further proof of their willingness to oblige, 
 although on leaving Graham's Town 1 was kindly fur- 
 nished by Captain Campbell (the Civil Commissioner of 
 the district) with an order on the different field cornets 
 for relays of horses to Cape Town, an occasion never once 
 occurred in which I found it necessary to produce it. 
 Having ridden eighty-four miles, the latter part of which, 
 over the Cape Flats, being loose sand, is the most tedious, 
 I reached Cape Town at five o'clock, and took up my 
 former quarters at Miss Rabe's boarding-house in the 
 Heeregracht. 
 
 On Saturday, the 19th, in the afternoon, I embarked on 
 board the Liverpool, a teak-built 74, sent from the Imaum 
 of Muscat, in charge of Captain Cogan of the Indian 
 Navy, as a present to his Britannic Majesty. At nine 
 o'clock the next morning we vrere underweigh ; anchored 
 at St. Helena on the Snd of January ; sailed early the 
 following morning ; and made the English coast off Fal- 
 mouth on the 20th of February, where I landed in the 
 pilot boat in the course of the evening. 
 
398 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 DOCUMENTS CONNECTED WITH PORT NATAL, 
 
 Extracted from the Grahams Toivn Journal of December ^rd^ 1835. 
 
 A TREATY CONCLUDED BETWEEN DINGARN, KING OF THE ZOOLUS, 
 AND THE BRITISH RESIDENTS AT PORT NATAL. 
 
 Dingarn from this period consents to waive all claim 
 to the persons and property of every individual now 
 residing at Port Natal, in consequence of their having 
 deserted from him, and accords them his full pardon. 
 He still, however, regards them as his subjects, liable to 
 be sent for whenever he may think proper. 
 
 The British residents at Port Natal, on their part, 
 engage for the future never to receive or harbour any 
 deserter from the Zoolu country, or any of its dependen- 
 cies ; and to use every endeavour to secure and return to 
 the King every such individual endeavouring to find an 
 asylum among them. 
 
 Should a case arise in which this is found to be im- 
 practicable, immediate intelligence, stating the particulars 
 of the circumstance, is to be forwarded to Dingarn. 
 
 Any infringement of this treaty on either part invali- 
 dates the whole. 
 
 Done at Congella this 6th day of May, 1835, in pre- 
 sence of 
 
 Umthlella, ) Chief Indoonas and head council- 
 Tambooza, S lors of the Zoolu nation. 
 Mr. G. Cyrus, Interpreter. 
 Signed on behalf of the British residents at Port Natal, 
 
 Allen F. Gardiner. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 399 
 
 REGULATIONS OF THE TOWN OF " D'URBAN," 
 PORT NATAL. 
 
 Port Natal, June 2^rd, 1835. 
 A meeting of the residents of Port Natal, especially convened for 
 the purpose, was this day held at the residence of F. Berkin, Esq. ; 
 
 ""present : 
 
 Capt. Gardiner, R. N. J. Collis, Esq. 
 
 Mr. H. Ho-le, Mr. J. Cane. 
 
 Mr. C. Pickman. Mr. R. Wood. 
 
 Mr. P. Kevv. Mr. T. Garden. 
 
 Mr. J. Francis. Mr. R. King-. 
 
 Mr. J. Mouncy. Mr. J. Pierce. 
 
 Mr. G. Cyrus. Mr. D. C. Tookey. 
 Mr. C. Adams. 
 
 When the following- resolutions were unanimously agreed to: — 
 
 1st. — That an eligihle and commodious site be immediately selected 
 for the purpose of erecting- a town, and allotting- a sufficient township 
 for its inhabitants' use. 
 
 2nd. — That after a minute survey, we do unanimously ag-ree, that 
 the said town be situate between the River Avon and the Buffalo 
 Spring-; that it be bounded on the west by the River Avon, on the 
 east by a line drawn from the bay in a right angle, and touching- the 
 Buffalo Spring-, near the residence of F. Berkin, Esq., and that the 
 town lands extend four miles inland, and include Salisbury Island in 
 the Bay. 
 
 3rd. — That the town now about to be erected be called D'Urban, 
 in honour of his Excellency the Governor of the Cape Colony. 
 
 4th. — That each of the present inhabitants of Natal be entitled to a 
 building- plot of ground in the said town, and Messrs. Berkin, Hogle' 
 and Collis be entitled to an extra allotment each, in consideration of 
 lands conceded by them to the town and township. 
 
 .5th. — That every person taking- an allotment do engage to erect a 
 house, conformable to the plan now adopted, within eighteen months 
 from this date; the street -front of which is not to be less than twenty- 
 four feet within its walls ; the breadth not less than ten feet ; and the 
 walls not less than eight feet high. Such building not being com- 
 
400 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 pleted within the said term of eighteen months, to be declared for- 
 feited, and to be sold to the highest bidder by the town committee, and 
 the proceeds added to the town fund. 
 
 6th. — That no Kafir hut, or any straw hut or building- be erected in 
 the township ; but a temporary residence, not less than one hundred 
 feet from the street, may be erected for the accommodation of labourers 
 on the allotments in which they are employed while erecting the 
 residence of their employer. 
 
 7th. — That every individual now at Natal, on taking possession of his 
 allotment, do pay into the hahds of the treasurer the sum of seven 
 shillings and sixpence, and that those who may arrive after this date 
 do apply to the Town Committee, who will dispose of by public 
 ^luction the number of allotments required, at a sum not less than three 
 pounds fifteen shillings sterling each, and that the proceeds of such 
 sales and other moneys collected, be paid into the hands of the trea- 
 surer, who shall be elected by a majority of householders, and applied 
 only to public purposes under the regulation of a committee appointed 
 annually. 
 
 8th. — That the Bluff point, extending between the sea and the bay, 
 with the wood growing thereon two English miles westward from its 
 point, be considered as town land, and reserved for the use of the town 
 for building purposes, and that every individual cutting timber on the 
 town lands do pay into the treasurer's hands the sum of one shilling 
 and sixpence per waggon load. 
 
 9th. — That a body of householders, not exceeding thirteen nor less 
 than five, be elected annually, on the first day of July (except such 
 day fall on a Sunday), by vote from the whole body of householders, 
 to form a committee, to be called the Town Committee ; proxies to be 
 admitted for such householders as may be absent at the time of 
 election. 
 
 10th. — That the Town Committee meet for business as often as may 
 be necessary, but always on the first Wednesday in every month ; they 
 are chargeable with the enforcement of the town regulations, which are 
 hereafter to remain unalterable. Five members, duly elected, to con- 
 stitute a board ; but they are invested with no power to enact new 
 regulations without the consent of the whole body of householders duly 
 convened by public notice. 
 
 -11th. — That the president, members, treasurer, and secretary be 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 401 
 
 remunerated in the sum of one shilling and sixpence per diem, when 
 transacting- public business, out of the town fund. 
 
 12th. — That the following gentlemen do compose the Town Com- 
 mittee for the ensuing year, viz. Captain Gardiner, R. N., J. Collis, 
 Esq., F. Berkin, Esq., Mr. J. Cane, Mr. H. Hogle. 
 
 13th. — That for the endowment of a clergyman of the Church of 
 England for the parish of D'Urban, three thousand acres of land, situate 
 on the River Avon, and bounded by the lands of James Collis, Esq., 
 be reserved as church lands, to be held in trust by the proper autho- 
 rities, and never to be alienated from that purpose ; and that the cler- 
 gyman be also entitled to a building allotment for a town residence. 
 
 14th. — That the appointment of a clergyman for the parish of 
 D'Urban is to rest with the Church Missionary Society, but subject to 
 the approval of a majority of not less than two-thirds of the whole body 
 of householders, six months after his arrival. 
 
 15th. — That a convenient site be selected in the township for the 
 erection of a free-school, and that two thousand acres of land be reserved 
 for its support ; and that the said land be reserved on the right bank of 
 the Umlass River, at the foot of the Munyabie. 
 
 16th. — That a reserve of three thousand acres of land be appropriated 
 as a fund for the endowment of a public hospital ; and such reserved 
 lands be on the right bank of the river Incomaas, below the drift, and 
 under the controul of the Town Committee. 
 
 17th. — That a plot of ground within the township be set apart as a 
 burial ground for the natives. 
 
 18th. — That in the event of the town being removed beyond the 
 limits of the present township, the whole of the land forming the 
 township be equally shared among those at present residing at Natal, 
 and become the property of their heirs or successors. 
 
 19th. — That every person be at liberty to dispose of his allotment 
 and buildings thereon as soon as the above regulations are conformed to. 
 
 20th. — That all who may feel inclined to take farms in the vicinity 
 of Port Natal, as well as those already in possession of lands, report 
 the same in writing to the Town Committee,''describing their situation, 
 extent, boundaries, &c. ; all lands not so reported to be considered as 
 void. 
 
 21st. — That any infringement of the above articles subjects the indi- 
 vidual to the forfeiture of his allotment, provided he does not conform 
 
 D D 
 
402 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 within three months after due notice shall have been given him by thp 
 Town Committee. 
 
 22nd. — That a voluntary subscription be entered into this day, for 
 the purpose of establishing a town fund ; and tenders be received by 
 Committee for performing by contract the cleaning of the streets and 
 squares of the town ; that the lowest tender be accepted, and that 
 F. Berkin, Esq., ])e solicited to fill the office of treasurer. 
 
 23rd. — That two auditors be elected every six months to examine 
 and report the treasurer's accounts, and that they be authorised to call 
 a meeting to receive their report and approve of the same. 
 
 24th. — That a petition be forthwith prepared, and transmitted to 
 his Excellency the Governor of the Cape, praying him to transmit it 
 to his Majesty's Government, soliciting the protection of the British 
 flag in favour of the infant colony of Victoria. 
 
 23th. — That the thanks of the inhabitants of Port Natal are justly 
 due to Messrs. Berkin, Collis, and Hogle, for the readiness evinced by 
 them in conceding their respective claims to lands considered essential 
 for the comfort of their fellow-citizens. 
 
 Resolved, — That a copy of the above resolutions and petition be 
 forwarded to the editor of the " Graham's Town Journal," who be re- 
 quested to strike off one hundred copies of the regulations for the use 
 of the inhabitants of D'Urban, and to insert a copy of the same in the 
 " Graham's Town Journal," with the list of subscriptions. 
 
 C. J. PiCKMAN, Sec. and Act. Treasurer. 
 
 List of Subscriptions for the purpose of clearing the Bush, and other 
 necessary Improvements in the Town and Township of D'Urban. 
 
 Capt. Gardiner 
 
 - £30 
 
 0 
 
 C. Adams 
 
 - £0 
 
 5 
 
 J. Collis, esq. 
 
 - 10 
 
 0 
 
 H. F. Fynn 
 
 - 2 
 
 10 
 
 H. Hogle - 
 
 - 5 
 
 0 
 
 R. King, one week's work. 
 
 
 C. Pickman 
 
 - 1 
 
 10 
 
 J. Mouncy, do. 
 
 do. 
 
 
 P. Kew 
 
 - 1 
 
 10 
 
 J. Francis, do. 
 
 do. 
 
 
 J. Cane 
 
 , 1 
 
 10 
 
 R. Wood, do. 
 
 do. 
 
 
 T. Carden - 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 D. Snelder 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 G. Cyrus 
 
 - 1 
 
 0 
 
 B. Biggar 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 J. Pierce 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 John Jones 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 403 
 
 The following is the Petition referred to in the fore- 
 going:— 
 
 Petition of the Householders of the Town of D 'Urban, Port Natal. 
 
 May it please your Excellency, 
 
 We, the undersigned British subjects, inhabitants of Port Natal 
 and its vicinity, have commenced building- a town called D'Urban, in 
 honour of your Excellency. 
 
 We hold in our possession extensive tracts of excellent land, a con- 
 siderable portion of which has long been under cultivation : many of 
 us are occupied in conducting a valuable trade in hides and ivory, the 
 former of which is almost exclusively obtained within the limits, 
 which by mutual consent of surrounding chieftains have been conceded 
 to us. 
 
 In consequence of the exterminating wars of Charka, late King of 
 the Zoolus, and other causes, the whole country included between the 
 Umzimcoolu and Tugala rivers is now unoccupied by its original 
 possessors ; and, with a very few exceptions, is totally uninhabited. 
 
 Numbers of natives from time to time have entered this settlement 
 for protection ; the amount of whom at this present moment cannot 
 be less than three thousand. 
 
 These all acknowledge us as their chiefs, and look to us for pro- 
 tection, notwithstanding which we are living in the neighbourhood of 
 powerful native states, without the shadow of a law, or a recognised 
 authority among us. 
 
 We, therefore, humbly pray your Excellency, for the sake of 
 humanity — for the upholding of the British character in the eyes of the 
 natives — for the well-being of this increasing community — for the cause 
 of morality and religion, to transmit this our petition to his Majesty's 
 Government, praying that it may please his Majesty to recognise the 
 country intervening between the Umzimcoolu and Tugala rivers, which 
 we ^have named " Victoria," in honour of our august Princess, as a 
 colony of the British empire, and to appoint a Governor and Council, 
 with power to enact such laws and regulations as may be deemed 
 expedient by them, in concert with a body of representatives chosen by 
 ourselves, to constitute a house of assembly. 
 
 And your petitioners, as in duty bound, will ever pray. 
 
 D D 2 
 
404 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 CHURCH AT " D'URBAN." 
 
 A meeting of the Inhabitants of Port Natal was held this day, 23rd 
 June, 1835, when it was unanimously resolved, — ■ 
 
 That a subscription, for the erection of a Church, be commenced, 
 and that the building shall, on the amount of subscription reaching 
 500/. sterling, be immediately commenced. 
 
 That the aid of the religious public be requested, and that sub- 
 scription lists for that purpose be opened at the stores of 
 
 Messrs. B. Norden and Mayanard, Graham's Town. 
 Messrs. Dixon and Burnies, Cape Town ; and 
 Messrs. Drummond's, Charing Cross, London. 
 
 The following sums were immediately subscribed : — 
 
 Capt. Gardiner, R. N. 
 
 - £50 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. J. Pierce 
 
 - £2 
 
 0 
 
 J. CoUis, esq. 
 
 " 20 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. G. Cyrus 
 
 - 2 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. John Cane - 
 
 - 5 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. T. Carden 
 
 - 1 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. J. Francis 
 
 - 3 
 
 15 
 
 Mr. H. F. Fynn - 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. P. Kew 
 
 - 2 
 
 10 
 
 Mr. D. Snelder - 
 
 - 2 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. H. Hogle 
 
 - 2 
 
 10 
 
 Mr. R. Biggar - 
 
 - 3 
 
 10 
 
 Mr. Wood 
 
 > 2 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. John Jones 
 
 - 1 
 
 0 
 
 Mr. Pickman 
 
 - 2 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 His Excellency Sir Benjamin D'Urban has since subscribed the sum 
 of 50/. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 405 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 As in all probability there will be many grave objec- 
 tions on the part of his Majesty's Government to extend 
 the British protection to the new territory of Victoria, I 
 should not feel myself justified in dismissing this part of 
 the subject, even at the risk of being mistaken for a land 
 speculator, without offering some further remarks, the 
 substance of which has already been submitted to his 
 Excellency Sir Benjamin D'Urban, and received his entire 
 approval. 
 
 In addition to the primary and important object of im- 
 parting Christian knowledge, and raising the natives from 
 their present degraded condition, both as respects their 
 temporal and spiritual interests, the advantages to the 
 mother country, which would accrue from colonization, 
 would be great and immediate. The trade in ivory is 
 yearly increasing ; and there is no doubt that the greater 
 part, if not the whole, which now passes through the 
 pestilential climate of Delagoa Bay, w^ould find its way to 
 the healthy shores of Port Natal ; a presumption founded 
 on no less an authority than Dingarn himself, who has 
 intimated his intention of an almost exclusive barter with 
 the English, should the settlement at Port Natal become 
 sufficiently organised by a local government. 
 
 But by far the most cogent argument, if indeed an ad- 
 
406 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 ditional one were wanting, is the beneficial bearing which 
 such an acknowledged settlement would have upon the 
 native states throughout the whole intermediate territory 
 from Victoria to the Cape colony. With Port Natal, as 
 a point d'appid, to be strengthened at any time of emer- 
 gency, any future hostile combination of the Amakosa 
 would not only be utterly hopeless, but immediately sup- 
 pressed ; and that without incurring the disasters of a 
 tumultuous invasion or the onerous expenses of a length- 
 ened campaign. A detachment of marines acting in con- 
 cert with the Amapondas, and falling upon their rear, 
 would effect more than ten times the same number of 
 regular forces from the opposite direction, as, by destroying 
 their communications with the interior, the difficulty of 
 conveying away and secreting stolen cattle would be so 
 great, that, independent of the check they would doubt- 
 less meet with in front, their whole system of warfare 
 would at once be frustrated ; and it is evident, under such 
 circumstances, they must from necessity abandon the 
 attempt. 
 
 It surely will be unnecessary to advert to the policy of 
 occupying, even at a little expense, a position which an 
 unfriendly power might at any time possess, and so 
 materially turn to our disadvantage. This will doubtless 
 occur to all who have paid the slightest attention to our 
 relations in South Africa ; but it may not be out of place 
 to go a step farther, and to assert the utter impractica- 
 bility of defending the province of Albany, the fairest of 
 our colonial possessions in that quarter of the globe, un- 
 
ZOOI.U COUNTRY. 407 
 
 less at a most ruinous expense, in the event of any rival 
 power establishing itself at Port Natal, — with all the 
 facilities afforded by such a position to abet and tamper 
 with the vindictive character of the Amakosa tribes. 
 
 By instituting a local authority — by restoring the Bri- 
 tish character to its proper standard — and by encouraging 
 a friendly and commercial intercourse with the Zoolu na- 
 tion, a powerful diversion would at once be effected in 
 favour of colonial interests, and the probability of a col- 
 lision between this warlike people and their southern 
 neighbours, or what would be far more destructive to the 
 tranquillity of our colonial frontier, an offensive and 
 defensive alliance between them and the Amakosa be 
 entirely precluded. 
 
 With regard to expense, not the least important con- 
 sideration in all matters connected with colonization, al- 
 though it might be fairly advanced that ample amends 
 would be made for a reasonable expenditure in the secu- 
 rity of our existing frontier from aggression or predatory 
 attack, still there are some peculiarities in the state of 
 society in the country in question which will go far to 
 lighten the burden, should it ever be imposed. 
 
 The natives at Port Natal are, almost to a man, refugees 
 from the Zoolu nation, goaded by a rigorous government 
 to desert for protection to our settlement : their very 
 existence, therefore, depends upon their combining to 
 defend the asylum they have chosen. For some years 
 many of them have been entrusted with fire-arras for the 
 purpose of hunting the elephant and buffalo ; and in 
 
408 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 consequence, out of the whole body, some very tolerable 
 marksmen can be selected. An European military force 
 is not therefore absolutely necessary either for the sup- 
 port of the government or the defence of the settlement 
 — a few veteran soldiers, for the purpose of instituting 
 drills, and introducing an uniformity of system, would be 
 quite sufficient, under the inspection of one or two non- 
 commissioned officers, to organise a native force adequate 
 for every necessity that might arise. 
 
 A kilt, of the commonest material, by way of clothing, 
 and the loan of a cow (price about forty shillings) to each 
 man, to be forfeited for misconduct, but to become his 
 actual property after three years' faithful service, would 
 be regarded as a sufficient remuneration, and comprise 
 the whole expense of a force, with which, after three 
 months' training, I should have no hesitation in combat- 
 ing, if necessary, the whole Zoolu army. 
 
 To these brief remarks, far too cursory for the import- 
 ance of the subject, which, I trust, will find an abler advo- 
 cate, I will only add my sincere hope that, for the 
 security and permanency (under the Divine blessing) 
 of the Missionaries about to be sent to that country, the 
 appeal to his Majesty's Government, contained in the 
 petition inserted above, may not have been urged in vain ; 
 but contribute to such a result as may conduce not only 
 to the well-being of that infant settlement, but to the 
 manifestation of the Gospel of grace, and the extension 
 of the Redeemer's kingdom from the shores of Victoria 
 to the very confines of Abyssinia. 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 409 
 
 One word to British Christians, and the patient reader 
 who has followed me thus far is released. 
 
 The Committee of the Church Missionary Society, to 
 whom application for succour was immediately made on 
 my arrival in England, have, I am thankful to say, 
 accepted the two stations of Berea and Culoola as they 
 now stand, as well as the entire management and controul 
 of the Zoolu Mission in future ; but from their abso- 
 lute inability to supply labourers for the work, it is very 
 doubtful whether they will be enabled to carry their 
 purpose into execution. 
 
 To appeal to you, under such circumstances, is a duty 
 which you will readily admit ; and, although it should 
 touch a string which has often been strained before, and 
 is still vibrating to the latest call of Christian philan- 
 thropy, I feel assured that it is only to make known 
 the circumstances and urgency of the case to meet with 
 your cheerful and warmest support- 
 
 Let it not be said that teachers are reluctant to go 
 when nations are willing to be taught — that injured, 
 benighted Africa, groping through the thick darkness, 
 calls unheeded for your aid, and stretches out her hands 
 to you in vain. Much as there is undoubtedly to be done 
 at home, are there none willing to spend and be spent in 
 the cause of their ever blessed Redeemer abroad ? Is the 
 path, once so humbly and so holily pursued by a Schwartz, 
 a Brainard, and a Martyn, become too hard and too self- 
 denying for the modern disciples of Him, who, though 
 he was rich, yet for our sake became poor — who bore our 
 
410 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE 
 
 griefs and carried our sorrows — who not only loved us, 
 but gave himself for us ! 
 
 Melancholy indeed wwld be the condition of that 
 people, who (calling themselves Christian) could calmly 
 sit down to count the cost, while millions were perishing 
 for lack of knowledge ; but far less enviable is the state 
 of that heart, which cares not to respond when the 
 ministers of the most high God point themselves to the 
 path of missionary labour. 
 
 It is to you, then, my fellow^-christians, that (under 
 the guidance and blessing of God) we look for support ; 
 and could I but hear you reply, " Although w^e cannot of 
 ourselves go forth, we will plead the poor African's cause 
 at the throne of grace, and make special supplication 
 unto Him, with whom is the residue of the spirit, that 
 He will incline the hearts of many of his faithful ser- 
 vants willingly to offer themselves as labourers in the 
 vineyard he has so graciously opened," I should then 
 feel assured not only that the blessing implored would 
 descend in abundance upon that parched and thirsty- 
 soil, " making the wilderness to blossom as the rose," but 
 also that you yourselves w^ould experience the refreshing 
 dew^s in your ow^n souls. 
 
 Let us never forget the wild shouts of our forefathers 
 who immolated their offspring at the foot of their 
 idols; and as w^e have so freely received, let us also 
 freely give, not our money only, but especially our 
 prayers, and (when the path of duty seems clearly evident) 
 our very selves, a living, holy, acceptable sacrifice — always 
 
ZOOLU COUNTRY. 411 
 
 bearing in mind the injunction of an inspired apostle — 
 " Ye are not your own, for ye are bought with a price ; 
 therefore glorify God in your body and your spirit, which 
 are God's."— (1 Cor. vi. 19.) 
 
 THE ZOOLU'S PRAYER. 
 
 Hark ! — a voice on Albion's shore, 
 Ming-ling with the ocean's roar, 
 
 A wild, but mournful plaint ; 
 'Twas raised on Afric's sunny strand, 
 And echoes now throughout our land, 
 
 In accents low and faint. 
 
 It is the blood-stained Zoolu's prayer. 
 The first that e'er was offered there 
 
 For mercy and for peace ; 
 It claims the Christian's fostering- hand 
 To cheer a dark and ruined land. 
 
 And bid her thraldom cease. 
 
 Haste ! haste I — to us direct your way, 
 We perish if you now delay — 
 
 God's word we long- to hear ! 
 Gladden our hearts with that good news, 
 Nor fear that we will e'er refuse 
 
 What now we hold so dear I 
 
 We love to hear the white man tell 
 How Jesus ransomed souls from hell, 
 
 And suffered in their stead I 
 And when our surf-girt shores you reach, 
 We'll pray to Him of whom you preach 
 
 For blessings on your head. 
 
JOURNEY TO THE ZOOLU COUNTRY. 
 
 As you were once bereft of light, 
 Oh, think upon our cheerless night, 
 
 Without one star to guide ! 
 Heed not the land you leave behind — 
 Another home with us you '11 find, 
 
 Your God will all provide ! 
 
 And when your day of trial 's o'er, 
 And you shall join those gone before 
 
 In realms of light above ; 
 You will not deem your labour lost. 
 Nor wish that you had weighed the cost 
 
 Of this your work of love. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 UUADBUIIY AND F.VANS, PUINXEilS, WIHTF.FRIAKS, 
 
 475 Riversida Drive New York 27, N. Y. 
 
t 
 
 h 
 
 u 
 
 J k 
 
 1' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■ -1 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 
 "1 
 
 
 "1 
 
 J 
 
 ^1 
 
 
 " 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 "1 
 
 
 .J 
 
 
 J 
 "1 
 
 
 
 
 
 "•1 
 
 T 
 
 
 I i 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 
 "1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1^ 
 
 I 
 
 Hi 
 
 1 
 
 11 1 
 
 V «^ 
 
 1- 
 1^ 
 
3856CD 
 
 Ql 
 
1012 01353 0284