LH3RARY OF pRff*C JAN 1 8 2012 THEOLOGICAL seminary G440.M34 M34 1897 McLean, Archibald, 1850-1920. Circuit of the globe : T 0 3 7h w^r &h y ; . . Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/circuitofglobeseOOmcle A. McLEAN. A Circuit of the Globe A SERIES OF LETTERS OF TRAVEL ACROSS THE AMERICAN CONTINENT, THROUGH THE HAWAIIAN REPUBLIC, JAPAN, CHINA, THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS, BURMA, INDIA, CEYLON, AUSTRALIA, EGYPT, PALESTINE, SYRIA, TURKEY, GREECE, ITALY, SWITZER- LAND, GERMANY, SCANDINAVIA, FRANCE AND ENGLAND. By A. McLEAN, Corresponding Secretary of the Foreign Christian Missionary Society. \ WITH AN INTRODUCTION By j. h. garrison, Editor of the Christian - Evangelist. LIBRARY OF PRINCETON ILLUSTRATED. JAM 1 3 2012 THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY ST. LOUIS: CHRISTIAN PUBLISHING COMPANY. 1897. Copyrighted, 1897, BY CHRISTIAN PUBLISHING COMPANY. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. A. McLean, . . . Frontispiece Facing page Facing page Devoid, Niels, 356 Arnold, T. J., 169 Ewers, D. A., 289 Adams, M. D., .... 240 Four Generations in China, 185 Arab School, an, .... 309 Frost, Miss Adelaide G., 209 Armenian School in Constantinople, 321 Farrar, Miss Bessie, 209 Armenian Patriarch, 329 Franklin, Miss Stella, 212 Armenian Catholicos, 341 Franklin, Miss Josepha, 212 Armenian Patriarch, 341 First Church in Honolulu, Sandwich Bentley, W. P., and Family, Shang- Islands, 216 hai, China, .... 152 Faris, E. E., 368 Boys’ School in Chu Cheo, China, 165 Garvin, T. D., 33 Butehart, Dr., .... 169 Garst, C. E., 57 Bungalow in Hurda, India, 197 Garst, Mrs., and School, Tokyo, Beggars in Hurda, India, 197 Japan, 65 Bungalow in Mungeli, India, 205 Guy’s, Mrs., Charity School, Tokyo, Bungalow in Bina, India, 229 Japan, 113 Burgess, Miss Mattie, Bina, India, 233 Garrett, Mrs. Frank, 136 Baldwin, Dr., ..... 240 Garrett, Frank, 136 Boyd, Miss, .... 240 Graybiel, Miss Mary, 209 Bungalow in Mahoba, India, 244 Girls’ Orphanage, Bilaspur, India, 221 Boys’ School in Bilaspur, India, 248 Girls’ School in Bilaspur, India, 221 Benares, India, .... 265 Gordon, E. M., Mungeli, India, 225 Bardsley, John, .... 289 Gordon, Dr. Anna M., Mungeli, India, 225 Bardsley, Mrs. John, 289 Great Mosque, the, Delhi, India, 265 Burford, ‘Win., .... 289 Gore, T. J., . . . 277 Brooks, J. A., London, Eng., 365 Greek Patriarch, 341 Bates, T. H., Cheltenham, Eng., 365 Gow, L. H., Southampton, Eng., 365 Black, H. M., Liverpool, Eng., 365 Hearnden, Mrs. E. P., 136 Biddle, Dr. H. N., .... 368 Hong- Kong, 145 Class in English, Tokyo, Japan, 80 Hearnden, E. P., 169 Christians and Missionaries in To- Hunt, W. R. , . 169 kyo, Japan, 89 Hunt, Mrs., 169 Chinese Mandarin, .... 121 Hospital in Bilaspur, India, 229 Chinese Pagoda, 128 Hoick, Dr., and Family, Copenhagen, Chinese Priest Begging, 128 Denmark, . 361 Chinese Gambling, 176 Hawk, Jeu, and Family, Portland, Coffman, G. W., Damoh, India, 253 Ore., 233 Colbourne, J., 289 Indian Prince, an, 257 Coliseum, The, .... 352 Indian Maharajah, an, 257 Durand, Dr. C. S., 200 Johnson, Miss Kate, Tokyo, Japan, 97 Davies, J. A., 277 Judson, Miss Hattie, 200 Davies, Mrs. J. A., 277 Jackson, Mrs. H. L., 200 Dunn, F. G., ..... 289 Jerusalem, . . . . 312 Dancing Dervishes, 305 Johnson, A., 356 LIST OF ILL US TEA TIOXS Facing Jain Priest, .... Kelly, Mary, ..... Kerr, Dr. J. C., Canton, China, . Kinsey, Miss Ida, Bina, India, Kingsbury, Miss, King of Siam and Children, Kutub-Minar, Delhi, India, Kevorkian, Dr., Garabed, Li Hung Chang, .... Lyon, Miss, ..... Lohr, Mrs., ..... Lepers in Hurda, India, Leo Xm., Larsen, K., ..... Madden, Mr. and Mrs. M. B., Meigs, Mrs. F. E., Memorial Hospital in Nankin, China, Macklin, Dr., Miss Daisy, Nankin, China, .... Mission Buildings in Nankin, China, Macklin, Dr., .... Moll and, C. E., Meigs, F. E., .... Macklin, IBs., .... MeGavran, Mrs., McGavran, J. G., Mitchell, Ben, Bina, India, Mitchell, Mrs. Ben, Bina, India, Merrill, Dr., .... Miller, Dr. A. C. and Dr. Lillian B., Bilaspur, India, Mohammedan University, Cairo, Maori Warrior, .... Maori Chief, ..... Maston, A. B., .... Nilsen, Enid, ..... Oldham, Miss, .... Oxer, Dr. Rose, .... Orphanage in Damoh, India, Pandita Ramabai, Poona, India, Preparing to Burn the Dead, Parsee Girls, ..... Pyramids, the, .... Parthenon, the, .... Facing page Rioch, Miss, .... Robinson's, Sue A., Grave, Hurda, 80 India, ..... 104 Railway in China, a, . Rioch, Miss Mary, and Class of Girls, 176 Tokyo, Japan, 192 Rambo, Mrs., . . . . 212 Rambo, W. E., 212 Rapkin, Geo., Margate, Eng., 365 Rankin, A. C., . . . 277 Stileman, Lieut., 33 Stevens, Dr. Nina, .... 57 Stevens, E. S., 57 Smith's, Josephine, Grave, Smith’s, Josephine, Memorial Chapel, 104 Akita, Japan, 104 Saw, A. F. H., 169 Saw, Mrs., ..... 169 School Chapel in Hurda, India, 205 Spradlin, Miss Alice, . 209 Selby, Isaac, 277 Suez Canal, .... 296 St. Peter’s, Rome, .... 312 St. Sophia, Constantinople, 321 School in Constantinople, 337 Shishmanian, Mrs., 345 Shishmanian, G. N., 345 Stockford, Jesse, 365 Taj Mahal, 244 Thompson, Miss Mary, 200 Temple in Southern India, . 272 Todd, E. M., Chester, Eng., 365 Verbeck, Dr., .... 57 Verco, Dr. Joseph, .... 277 Wiriek, Miss, .... 57 Ware, James, 169 Williams, E. T., .... 169 Williams, Mrs., .... Wharton, G. W., and his Helpers, 169 India, .... 216 Water Carrier, .... 237 Wester, H. N., 356 Xavier, Francis, .... 188 page 237 136 188 233 240 269 272 345 121 169 240 261 329 356 57 136 145 152 160 169 169 169 169 212 212 233 233 240 253 305 281 281 289 356 80 209 212 188 261 269 296 352 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction 7 I. Across the Continent ..... 9 II. A Plea for Missions in America ... 13 III. From San Francisco to Honolulu . . 17 IV. The Evangelization of the Hawaiian Islands 23 V. The Hawaiian Islands 29 VI. “ The Isles Shall Wait for His Law ” . 38 VII. From Honolulu to Yokohama ... 43 VIII. Japan 50 IX. My First Sunday in Japan .... 56 X. A Trip to the North of Japan ... 63 XI. A Week in Tokyo 75 XII. Missionary Methods in Japan ... 83 XIII. The Work of the Disciples of Christ in Japan 90 XIV. Christianity in Japan 96 XV. Trampling on the Cross . . . 101 XVI. Some Curious Things in Japan . . . 107 XVII. From Tokyo to Kobe 112 XVIII. From Kobe to Shanghai 119 XIX. A Glimpse of Shanghai .... 124 XX. From Shanghai to Nankin .... 131 XXI. Nankin and Round About .... 137 XXII. Chu Cheo and Lu Hoh ..... 143 XXIII. Hankow, Wuhu, Nankin and Shanghai . 148 XXIV. Peking and the Great Wall and Return . 154 XXV. From Shanghai to Hong Kong and Canton 161 XXVI. Christianity in China 166 XXVII. The Work of the Disciples of Christ in China 172 XXVIII. Some Curious Things in China . . .179 (5) 6 TABLE OF COS TEXTS PAGE XXIX. China and the Chinese .... 186 XXX. From Hong Kong to Calcutta . . . 193 XXXI. India and Her Peoples .... 201 XXXII. Calcutta and Serampore 207 XXXIII. India and Christianity .... 212 XXXIV. The Work of the Disciples of Christ in India 217 XXXV. Benares 228 XXXVI. Cawnpore and Lucknow .... 232 XXXVII. Delhi and Agra 236 XXXVIII. Bombay, Poona and Nellore . . . 241 XXXIX. From Madras to Colombo .... 245 XL. Large Ingatherings in India . . . 249 XLI. Things Indian 255 XLII. From Ceylon to Australia .... 262 XLIII. Adelaide 266 XLIV. From Adelaide to Sydney .... 270 XLV. The Victoria Missionary Conference . .275 XL VI. A Brief Campaign in Melbourne and Vicinity 280 XL VII. From Melbourne to the Ship . . . 284 XLVIII. Concerning the Australian Churches . . 288 XLIX. From Adelaide to Ismailia .... 292 L. From Ismailia to Alexandria .... 298 LI. From Alexandria to Jaffa .... 308 LII. From Jaffa to Jerusalem and Return . . 313 LIII. Things Palestinian 323 LIV. From Jaffa to Constantinople . . . 328 LV. Constantinople, Giol Dagh and Bardezag 332 LVI. Missions in Turkey 336 LVII. Constantinople and the Turks . . . 342 LVIII. From Constantinople to Copenhagen . . 349 LIX. In Scandinavia 354 LX. From Cohenhagen to London . . . 359 LXI. From London to Cincinnati ^ 364 LXII. Some Impressions — Conclusion . . . 369 Index 377 INTRODUCTION. He who goes abroad to visit strange lands and peoples, and comes in contact with strange scenes, customs, laws and lan- guages, if he but have eyes to see and a mind to understand, can tell many things to interest and instruct those who are denied the privileges of such a journey. When the traveler who is to tell us the story of his travels is a man of cultivated mind, enriched by wide reading, and with a consecrated heart and life, who under- takes “A Circuit of the Globe,” not from idle curiosity, but on a high and holy embassy, connected with the extension of Christ’s kingdom in the world, and as the official representative of a great missionary society, his report of what he saw and heard, and his reflections thereon, possess a special and peculiar value. There are many globe-trotters in these days who go around the world without seeing or hearing anything that is of any great value to anybody. But this volume is the record of one who had been sent by his brethren to investigate the problem of missions in other lands, and especially to note the condition, progress and needs of our own missions in the Old World. It was at the national convention at Richmond, in 1894, that Prof. B. C. Deweese, at a proper place in the proceedings, pre- sented a preamble and resolutions setting forth Mr. McLean’s long and faithful service to the society, his unstinted labors and sac- rifices to further its interests, his need of a rest, the encourage- ment that a visit from him would impart to our missionaries in foreign lands, and resolving that the society send him on a visit to our foreign mission stations, the details respecting time of departure, duration of tour, etc., to be left to his discretion after conference with the executive committee. This preamble and resolution were received by the Convention with a spontaneous applause that left no doubt as to the sentiment (7) 8 ISTBODUCTIOX of the delegates on the subject. It was unanimously adopted and in a few moments a large sum was raised to cover the expense of his journey. The journey was begun in the following August and occupied over a year. During the absence of Secretaiy McLean, the financial secre- tary, F. M. Rains, who had heartily forwarded the movement to send his associate around the world, cheerfully assumed the extra work which this arrangement involved, and carried it on with such energy and ability as to increase the receipts of the society in spite of the bal’d times. The readers of our various papers which published these letters, not only read them as they appeared, with the deepest iuterest, but they have demanded their publication in permanent form. This demand was anticipated by the publishers, however, who requested the Secretary to arm himself with a kodak and bring back some per- manent impressions of places and persons he might see in his travels. Many of these, with other pictures, appear as illustrations in the fol- lowing pages, and form an interesting feature of the book. The faces of the faithful missionaries and the buildings in which they live and carry on their work will serve to strengthen the links that bind these brave workers abroad to the churches at home in an indissoluble fellowship of sacrifice, of joy and of triumph. It can scarcely be doubted that the publication of this volume of Missionary Letters, written from the field while the author was in living contact with the work and its needs, and pulsing, as they do, with the mission spirit, will deepen the interest in the cause of missions among the churches, and thus help to hasten the subju- gation of the world to the reign of Jesus Christ our Lord. That it may accomplish this beneficent mission, while serving as a memorial to our faithful and beloved Secretary, when he has finished his use- ful labors on earth, will be the hope and the prayer of all who have followed him in his “Circuit of the Globe.” J. H. Garrison. Bose Hill, St. Louis. A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE i. ACROSS THE CONTINENT. At the Annual Convention of the Foreign Christian Missionary Society, held in Richmond, Va., in October, 1894, it was decided that I should make a circuit of the globe in the interest of world- wide missions. It was thought that I would learn much about the nature and needs of the work that I could never learn by cor- respondence ; that I would cheer the hearts of the workers on the fields, and that I would I’eturn built up in mind and in body, and prepared for more efficient service. A handsome sum was raised to defray expenses. The tour mapped out is as follows: From Cincinnati to San Francisco; thence to Japan, by way of Honolulu; from Japan to China, and from China to India; from India to Australia; thence through the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea to Egypt; thence to Jaffa, Jerusalem and Beirut; thence to Cyprus, Smyrna, Constanti- nople, and other points in Turkey; thence to Athens, Corinth and Rome; thence across Europe to Copenhagen and several cities in Norway; thence to Hamburg, Cologne, Paris, London, Liverpool, New York, and home. I go to Australia because some of the churches there are co-operating with us in India. They support Miss Mary Thompson and two native helpers. This tour will occupy about a year, and will cost about $2,000. Before starting on this long journey good friends arranged several receptions. The first was in the Mt. Healthy Church, on the evening of July 21, 1895. This is the church I served for ten years. The house was tastefully decorated. Brief and eloquent addresses were made, appropriate songs were sung, and earnest prayers were offered. The memories of that hour will go with me around the world; they will abide with me forever. Mt. Healthy is noted as the home of Alice and Phoebe Cary. Here they were born and educated, and here they did much of their best work. 10 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE The trees they planted, the well from which they drank, the house in which they lived, are objects of interest to their innumerable admirers. At the edge of the village David S. Burnet had once a famous school for girls. There he and Benjamin Franklin lived and published The Reformer and The Christian Age. The Mt. Healthy Church is first and last and always a missionary church. The good people of this place have found by actual experience that there is that which scattereth and yet increaseth. The name of this church is known in every field and by every missionary. Iu the corner-stone of the building there is one thing, and only one, namely, a Bibie. This church stands for Biblical Christianity. On the next Sunday evening the churches in and about Cincinnati abandoned their regular services. A thousand people assembled. Some came from quite a distance. The exercises throughout, the songs, the Scripture lesson, the prayers and the talks were pre- eminently missionary. The great commission was emphasized, the workers were tenderly and lovingly remembered, some of the diffi- culties and needs of the work set forth. No one went away with- out a better knowledge of missions and a deeper interest in the missionaries. Cincinnati has been intimately connected with our missionary work from the beginning. Here the American Chris- tian Missionary Society was organized. The Foreign Society was located here because Isaac Errett, W. T. Moore, W. S. Dickinson, Jacob Burnet, James Leslie and Dr. E. Williams lived here. Here, too, was the home of the Christian Standard. Its editor had been Corresponding Secretary of the American Society for four years. Nearly every number contained some missionary informa- tion. The editor made his appeals to the hearts and consciences of his readers, and his appeals were not in vain. On Monday H. M- Hickok gave a farewell banquet. He invited the leading spirits in our missionary societies and in our journalism and some personal friends to meet him at the Grand Hotel. Twenty guests sat down with him. After partaking of the good things provided, some admirable speeches were made. It was a delightful occasion. The spirit of the Lord was present. The cause of missions was helped by this banquet. On Wednesday morning a group of personal friends came down to the station to see me off. E. E. Faris, the bright young Texan, who goes to Africa as our pioneer, was my traveling companion that day. On reaching St. Louis we found a number of friends on the platform waiting for us. That night the churches gave up their prayer- meetings and came together to manifest their interest in ACROSS THE CONTINENT 11 world-wide missions. After an hour’s service in the auditorium, we adjourned to the parlors for social intercourse and for refresh- ments. Nothing was left undone to make the stranger feel at home. To the Disciples of Christ St. Louis is an interesting city. Here the Christian-Evangelist is published. Here W. W. Dowling edits Our Young Folks and the Sunday-school supplies sent out by the Christian Publishing Company. Here is the Christian Orphans’ Home. Here Mrs. J. C. Black, the superintendent of Children’s Work in connection with the Woman’s Board, lives. Here O. A. Bartholomew carries on his work. In seven years he has built seven churches in St. Louis, and many others in different parts of the country. From this city, Dr. A. W. Hitt and Miss Sue A. Robinson went to India. The next morning I left St. Louis for Kansas City. E. S. and G. W. Muckley and Judge Clarke came down to the depot to meet me. They refreshed my spirit. I was hungry and they fed me. While talking about the work in that city and other places the time passed rapidly. Kansas City is the seat of the Missouri Board of Missions. Here, too, the Board of Church Extension has its principal place of business. Here G. W. Muckley has his home. From this city he goes out to inform the churches about the work and to bring back their contributions to its support. The next stop was made at Den- ver, the Queen City of the Plains. At its gates W. S. Priest was waiting to extend a cordial welcome. That night the churches, with their ministers, met in the South Broadway Temple to speak words of good cheer and to listen to a brief account of the progress of the work. J. W. Ingram, W. S. Priest, Judge Barnum and Mel- ville Putnam spoke for the churches and spoke hopefully and impressively. Denver has suffered greatly from the panic. Thou- sands are out of employment. Many of those who had saved something in other years have had to live on their earnings, and now have nothing. The churches are making heroic struggles to meet their obligations and to help in the regions beyond. With the return of better times the debts will be paid, new churches will be established, and thousands will be given to help the work in other fields. The hard times are not without their advantages. They consolidate the membership and drive them closer to God. Let the good men in Denver take heart and hope and hold on until the day dawns and the mists and shadows flee away. The night is far spent, the day is at hand. From Denver to Salt Lake City is a distance of seven hundred and sixteen miles. The Denver and Rio Grande Railway is the 12 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE scenic line of the world. For several hours Pike’s Peak is clearly seen in the distance. This giant lifts his snowy head over fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. There is no more mag- nificent scenery in the Alps or the Himalayas than in the Rocky Mountains. Denver is a mile above the sea. The highest point on the road is nearly a mile above Denver. The train is scheduled to make the distance between Denver and Salt Lake City in twenty- nine hours. B. F. Clay was on the platform waiting for me, and drove me to the parsonage, where Mrs. Clay and Master Sam repeated the welcome. That night I spoke to a large audience in the Endeavor Church. The building is convenient and beautiful. A ride of eight hundred and seventy-one miles through Utah, Nevada and California, brings the traveler to the city beside the Golden Gate. Galen Wood preaches in Ogden. J. E. Denton preaches in Sacramento. I undex’stand that there is no church between these two cities on the Central Pacific Railway. In San Francisco I spent some time in the hospitable home of H. H. Luse. No missionary passes through San Francisco without being enter- tained by this family. E. W. Mathews, editor of the Pacific Chris- tian, went with me to Santa Cruz to attend the State meeting. No Secretary ever had a more royal welcome. Nothing was lacking to make my visit pleasant and effective. The large audience listened intently for an hour. At the close of the service they gave irue the right hand of fellowship and sent me away with their prayers and good wishes. Nor was that all. At the suggestion of A. C. Smither, they made a generous offering toward the expenses of my long jour- ney. This was the culmination of a series of ovations, beginning in Boston and extending across the continent. This afternoon I go aboard the City of Peking and sail out through the Golden Gate toward Honolulu. Now, our Lord Jesus Christ himself and God our Father, who loved us and gave us eternal comfort and good hope through grace, comfort our hearts and establish us in every good word and work. A PLEA FOR MISSIONS IN AMERICA. Years ago, so the story runs, a band of skeptics crossed the Mis- sissippi near where St. Louis now stands; they sang unclean songs; they drank wine and beer, and vowed that Jesus Christ should never cross that river. If one will start from St. Louis and go west till he reaches the Golden Gate, he will see and know that Jesus Christ has crossed the Mississippi. Or if he will go south through Arkansas and Texas and Arizona and New Mexico, or north through Iowa, Minnesota, Dakota, Montana, Washington, he will see indubitable evidences all the way that our Lord is trusted and served in all this western country. On the crest of the Rockies and the Sierras, and in the fertile valleys between, wherever two or three are gathered together, there He is in the midst. Christian people are going everywhere; churches, schools, and Christian institutions of all kinds follow. No power can exclude Christ and the Gospel. Japan and China and India tried to do that, and failed. As well try to keep out the sunshine and the dew; as well try to keep out the sweet influences of spring and summer. Skeptics may join hearts and hands in such an attempt; He that sits in the heaven shall laugh. The West no less than the East belongs to Christ, and he shall have it. Let no one think that everything has been done. The fact is, there remaineth much land yet to be possessed. Here and there forts have been established, but the victory is far from being com- plete. The saloon is omnipresent. Beer cars are seen in every train. Gambling runs riot. Many who were active in the churches at home have lost their faith, and are in haste to get rich. What then? Those who have the truth must carry it everywhere, and fill all hearts and homes and institutions with its spirit. Everything opposed to Christ must give place, as the wolf and the bear give place to civilization. In order to do this, the churches must arouse themselves and put forth such efforts as have never been witnessed. For be it known that the powers of darkness are mustering and marshaling themselves for the conflict; they are entrenching them- selves in the great West. The strong man armed keeps his house 13 14 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE and his goods; one stronger than he must come and bind the strong man and take away the armor wherein he trusted, and spoil his goods. This is a critical period in the history of the West, for it is a formative period. Great populations are pouring in. The nation gains more from immigration than from all her mines of gold and silver. Capable, energetic and ambitious men come here to better their condition. In 1835 there were not 5,000 white inhabitants in all the vast region between Lake Michigan and the Pacific. Now there are in this ter- ritory Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Minneapolis. In 1840 Chicago had a population of 4,500; now it has 1,438,000. In 1834 there were two log houses where Milwaukee now stands; the present population numbers 204,000. In 1842 a trading house was built ou the site of St. Paul. A small community of whites and half-breeds engaged in barter with the Indians and trappers. In 1850 St. Paul was in the wilderness; wild animals and Indians haunted the grounds about it. St. Paul has now 133,000 people within her borders, and Minneapolis has 164,000. In 1870 Duluth was laid out ou speculation in the woods. Duluth is now “the zenith city of the unsalted seas,’’ and has a population of 33,000. San Francisco in 1844 had a population of fifty souls; now she has 300,000. Kansas City, Denver, Seattle, Tacoma and Portland have grown in the same way. The time to reach these immigrants is on their arrival. They are then free to listen to the plea we make. In ten years it will be tenfold more difficult to reach aud win them. We hear of “the wild and woolly West.” In a ride of two thousand miles I did not see one prairie dog, or one jackrabbit, or one coyote, and only a score or two of Indians. The Wrest is neither wild nor woolly. The people are as intelligent and enter- prising as in the East. Some one said to Knowles Shaw that the people of the West were “the scum.” He said they are like the scum that rises on milk. The papers of San Francisco, Salt Lake and Denver contain all the news found in the great dailies of Chicago and New York. San Francisco in many respects reminds one of Boston. The streets are wider, and are not suffering from curvature of the spine. But the schools, and churches, and shops, and homes, and sidewalks, and street cars are not much, if any, behind those of “the Hub of the Universe.” There is poverty and there is vice ou the Pacific Coast, but these things are found on the Atlantic Seaboard as well. Preachei’s say it is hai’der to build up churches in the West than in the East. The spirit of the men who ci’ossed the plains in 1849 is still hei’e. The people want wealth, A PLEA FOE MISSIOXS IX AMERICA 15 and they want it at once. Solomon said. “If the axe is dull, one must put forth more strength.” So if it is harder to make con- verts and build up self-supporting churches, wre must work the harder. At Reno, Nevada, we saw a few Indians. They were dressed and acted like white folks. Some were smoking cigars or cigarettes, thus showing that they are bone of our bone and flesh of our flesh. Of the 300,000 Indians of the West, 66,000 pay taxes. The noble savage, so-called, is cultivating the arts of peace. He has been created anew in Christ Jesus. One who has not traveled over this country has only a faint con- ception of its extent and resources. Texas alone is considerably larger than the German Empire, California is larger than Turkey, Oregon is larger than England and Scotland and Wales. I have traveled from ocean to ocean, and from the lakes to the gulf. The more I travel the vaster the country appeal’s. There is room in this magnificent domain for a thousand millions of people. Then our population will not be as dense as that of Britain. The Gospel must be carried into every city and hamlet of this broad land. Wherever the beer keg can go the Bible must go. If the Bible could go in advance and keep out the accursed thing forever it would be better. Wherever men go to mine gold or silver or copper, or to raise corn or wheat or fruit, or to engage in any form of work, there the ministers of the Gospel must go and preach the unsearchable riches of Christ. It will avail nothing that we have three-fourths of all the coal in the world within our borders, that we have wide and fertile fields, that we raise more hogs and cattle than any other nation, that in manufactures and mechanical appli- ances we lead the world, that we are the richest of nations, if we are not a righteous people, and if our God is not the Lord. Let us know and remember that it is righteousness that exalteth a nation. We are well able to do the work which the Lord requires of us. We must plan and work on a larger scale than in former years. We must spend hundreds of thousands of dollars where we have been spending tens and fifties. There are mines in the Rocky Mountains with machinery that cost a million dollars. See what vast sums have been invested in railroads! Capitalists pour out money like water. They spend any amount in the sure and certain hope of profits in the years to come. We must go at this work as men go into great business ventures. We must capture the great cities. What has been done in Kansas City, in Des Moines, in St. Louis, can be done anywhere. It can be done in Chicago, in New York, in New Orleans, in Boston, in Cincinnati, in Indianapolis. 16 A CIBCUIT OF THE GLOBE Greater triumphs can be won if we will do our whole duty. God says of each of these great centers of population, as he did of Corinth, “I have much people in this city.” We cannot do the Lord’s work without a very much larger expenditure of money and a much lai'ger evangelistic staff than we have thus far dared to even dream about. In Salt Lake City our people were offered a lot in a most desirable section if they would erect a building upon it. They could not accept the offer. There are hundreds of such opportunities in the new and growing West. We ought to be ready to seize every one. We are playing at this work; we are trifling with a great trust. We need to hear the voice of God like a tire-bell at midnight, “Awake, thou that sleepest, and arise from the dead, and Christ shall give thee light.” There is not only room for the Disciples of Christ, but there is urgent need of them. Our growth in Missouri shows this. The fact that we have increased in fifty years from almost nothing to 130,000 amounts to a demonstration. The great churches in Mexico, Columbia, Sedalia, Warrensburg, Holden, Harrison ville, St. Joseph, Liberty, Lexington, Springfield, Kansas City, Topeka, Salina, Denver, Salt Lake City, Sacramento, Oakland, Los Angeles and San Francisco, could not have been called into existence if we had no vital truths for this generation. While recognizing all the good there is in other communions, we must hold to our conviction that in some important matters they are at sea in a fog. It is for us to publish the truth which God has revealed to us till all shall see it. It is high time for us to understand what God would have us do. We must make the spread of the Gospel of the glory of Christ our first and supreme concern. This is a time for heroic giving. It is a time for men to go out without purse or scrip or two coats, assured that God will supply their need accoi’ding to his riches of glory. If we do this we shall have such a measure of prosperity at home as shall cause the scoffer to say, “God is in these people of a truth.” The churches thus planted and watered will be missionary from the first, and will do their utmost to send the Gospel into all the ends of the earth. The Lord help us to see our duty and to perform it. III. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU. On the third of August, at three p.m., the City of Peking left her dock for Hong-Kong. She is to touch at Honolulu, Yokohama, and Nagasaki, on the way. Honolulu is 2,100 miles from San Fran- cisco; Yokohama is 3,478 from Honolulu. As we steamed down the Bay and saw the enormous docks and the number of ships going in all directions, and saw the crowded city stretching away for miles, it seemed incredible that half a century ago San Francisco was a village of fifty people living in log huts and bartering food and clothing for tallow, hides and horns. San Francisco is now one of the great cities of the world. What New York is to the East, that San Francisco is bound to be to the West. S.he must always be the chief port of entry to the commerce of the Pacific. In an hour and a half we were beyond the Golden Gate and the Seal Rocks. Here the pilot left us, and we felt that our voyage was fairly begun. Gradually the land faded from our sight. There was a tinge of sadness in this thought. It was like leaving home for the first time. America now leads all nations. What she is now is nothing compared with what she shall be. Her welfare means the welfare of the world. “ Blessings brighten as they take their flight.” So our country seems more and dearer as we leave it for a season. “Great God, we thank thee for this land, This bounteous birthland of the free ; Where peoples- from afar may come And breathe the air of i liberty. “Still may her flowers untrampled spring, Her harvests wave, her cities rise ; And yet, till Time shall fold his wing, Remain earth’s loveliest paradise.” Before we left the dock a group of people sang “All Hail the Power of Jesus’ Name” and “God be With You Till We Meet Again.” It was plain that there were missionaries on board. Probably no ship leaves this port for the Orient without having some missionaries among her passengers. God is thrusting out young men and women of culture and consecration into his harvest. 2 17 18 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE As the spiritual life of the churches is deepened, workers will go out in ever-increasing numbers. H. H. Luse and Jeu Hawk came down to bid me farewell. The first represented the Occident; the second, the Orient. The first was born in Pennsylvania; came West and settled in Oregon, and afterwards removed to San Fran- cisco. Jeu Hawk was won to Christ by Miss Sue A. Robinson, one of our missionaries to India. He was educated in Drake, and now is in charge of the Chinese Mission in Portland. The San Fran- cisco workers were at Santa Cruz, else a large number would have been on the dock. I thought then of the great host of Disciples of Christ who are interested in this trip, and who assured me that they would pray for me, and I was comforted. May their prayers bring down blessings upon their own heads, like rain upon the mown grass and like the showers that water the earth. Our ship was built in 1874. She was a fast boat in her time. She makes three hundred and thirty-five miles a day, burning seventy tons of coal. The greyhounds of the Atlantic consume over four hundred tons and cover five hundred miles. The officers are Americans; the crew is made up of Chinese and Japanese. The officers are gentlemanly fellows. They give civil answers to proper questions. They take an interest in the passengers, and try to make them feel at ease. The chief steward, Mr. W. S. Chandler, was especially kind. I crossed the Atlantic twice, and found the bearing of the officers there very different. Civility adds much to one’s comfort. On the train as we passed through Nevada, I asked a Pullman official how many large places there were between Ogden and Sacramento. He drew himself up and said with crushing force, “If I were to enumerate all the large places between Ogden and Sacramento, I would not have time for much else to-day.” As there is not one large place between the points named, something I discovered after, it would not have taken his lordship long to give me the information I sought. As it was, 1 wilted and said no more. Not only this ship, but the entire fleet is manned with Orientals. One of the officers spoke of the crew in high praise. They are polite, sober, willing and efficient. We have few passengers, less than twenty in the cabin, and not over fifty in the steerage. This is more enjoyable to the passengers than profitable to the company. Our ship will carry a hundred cabin passengers and a thousand steerage. With a small list every one can have a state-room. At table one receives more attention. On deck there is ample space to walk and sit. The passengers are pleasant people. One is an officer in the German Army. One lives FROM SAX FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU 19 in Honolulu, and is full of information respecting the islands. Sev- eral represent large business houses. The missionaries interest me most. Three of these four are women. It is a significant fact that more women are offering than men. Robert Oust says we shall soon have to change Wellington’s famous order and say, “ Up ladies, and at them.” Mrs. Nevius goes to Chefoo. She has been in China forty years. Her illustrious husband died recently. She is going back home. A medical missionary is going out for the first time. She goes to Chinkiang. One of the group has been in Japan six years. She and her parents had been traveling extensively in the East. She became interested in missions and remained in Japan. She is now on her way back after a year’s furlough. An ordained minister is going to Amoy. They are the happiest people on board. Their faces shine. They have heard the jo}Tul sound, “ Jesus saves.” They are going out to publish glad tidings. Their faces illustrate their message, and commend it to the sad-hearted peoples of the East. There is no suggestion of the ascetic or the Pharisee about them. They are as full of mirth and as ready for any innocent games as any on board. The ladies wear no jewelry, dress very simply, and look remarkably attractive. Dr. Groodell,of the Turkish mission, was one of the happiest of men. His asso- ciate rebuked him for his mirth, and asked him if he expected to enter heaven laughing. He said he would rather enter heaven laughing than crying. He was incorrigible. There was no more to be said. Missionaries have obeyed the Lord’s command, and they have entered into his joy. — There are some Chinese passengers in the cabin. The women wear bloomers and smoke cigarettes. Are these the harbingers of the coming woman? Their dress may be more comfortable, but to the eye of an amateur is less comely than the present style. There is one thing lacking in our list. There is not a bride on board. The captain states that he has had twenty- one in a single voyage. The raw material is here, but not the sweet, finished article. This is quite a loss. A bridal party on a train or on a boat is as good as a play. The fact that there should be a superabundance of brides on one voyage, and none on the next, constrains one to believe with John Calvin in total depravity. The Chinese passengers in the steerage are not without interest. They play cards and dice early and late. The Chinese are a race of gamblers. They stake their money as long as it lasts. When it is gone they stake themselves or their children. Rice is their princi- pal article of food. The way they shovel the rice into their mouths with their chopsticks is a marvel to the uninitiated. In addition to 20 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE rice they eat dried fish, fresh and salt meat, and vegetables. They have a common bowl containing some liquid resembling vinegar. Into this they dip their meat or vegetables, as the disciples did at the last supper. This is to make their food palatable. Their diet does not seem very inviting, but it makes great, brawny and athletic fellows. There is no cabin passenger, notwithstanding all the savory food and all the delicacies served to him, that can compare with some of these Chinese in muscular development. So life has its compensations. The rich have more than heart can wish for, and dyspepsia besides. The poor have little, but they have good appetites and superb digestion. In point of comfort, the upper class has not much advantage over the lower. On board ship we have every comfort and every convenience that we could have on shore. The state-rooms are spacious, and are supplied with everything needed. They are lighted with electricity. Every day you can have a bath in salt water. Pow Sing will call you at any hour you may wish. The table is excellent. The bill of fare must have been designed for epicures. Meats and vegetables and fruits and milk are kept in huge ice-chests. Fowls and sheep are kept on deck waiting their doom. No one need go hungry. The first evening the chief steward explained the arrangement for meals. You can have coffee in your room when you wish it. Breakfast is served at half-past eight; tiffin at one; dinner at seven. If you should feel famished between breakfast and tiffin, or between tiffin and dinner, or before turning in for the night, you can have tea and cake and fruit. The cooks are artists. They would do credit to any hotel. The service cannot be excelled. The “boy,” Ah Hee by name, is intelligent and obliging. In his soft slippers he moves as noiselessly and as swiftly as a cat. He anticipates your wish and hastens to supply it. He does not address you as “ Sir ” or as “ Boss.” He offers you the bill of fare, and inclines his ear. When the voyage began I thought I would get out of it all I could. I proposed to play high jinks at sea. The first morning I touched an electric button with my toe, and Ah Sam, a bright-faced Celestial, with a queue reaching down to his heels, appeared. I ordered coffee. In the twinkling of an eye it was before me. Hav- ing partaken, I turned over like a door on its hinges, and fell asleep. An hour later another Celestial appeared and announced that the bath was ready. I felt conscience-smitten at first, but soon became reconciled to it. The “boy” was paid for this service. Besides, he was so affable and acted as if he were receiving a favor rather than conferring one, that conscience' soon ceased to smite. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU 21 After three or four days, however, I found that this arrangement was not satisfactory. Heretofore, when urged to eat more than three times a day I have pleaded the statute of limitations. I found it expedient to return to the old order. Capacity for eating is like capacity for singing or speaking. It is a gift; it cannot be acquired. Coming down the Sierras a girl of spme thirty sum- mers sat opposite me at the table. She began with a drink that to an innocent prohibitionist looked suspiciously like a cocktail. Then she had a bottle of Apollinaris water, then a pot of tea, meanwhile drinking several glasses of ice-water. She ordered and inclosed a breakfast such as would have satisfied Sam- son or Goliath, or both. She read while eating, to improve her mind. When she was done she wiped her tapering fingers and her rosy lips, and looked as if she had been sipping nectar and tasting ambrosia. An omnivorous girl amuses me. Such an appetite here would be a treasure. Life on a ship is a lazy life. There is nothing to do, and all day and all night in which to do it. Carlyle said that every man is as lazy as he dare be. Who has not found it so? The first few days one chafes a good deal. The demon of work still possesses hiun When Charles Lamb was retired on a pension he did not know what to do with himself. His desk and his soul had grown together. He wanted to be back again. So one feels for a time. I work eight hours a day, and am getting a reputation for industry. But eight hours compared with the hours I worked for twelve years are child’s play. Sometimes I long to be back in the Mission Rooms, sharing in the work and in the joy. But my prophetic soul tells me that I shall soon feel like joining the society spoken of by Ian MacLaren, “The Amalgamated Sons of Rest — a society with conscientious objections to work between meals.” We get no letters and no papers, we know nothing and care little about what is going on in the great world. This is a season for rest and for storing energy. After it is over one will feel like a race horse. He will enter upon his work rejoicing in it, as a strong man to run a race. Birds have followed us all the way. Where do they build their nests? How do they live? They sow not, neither do they reap, nor gather into barns; God feedeth them. He will care for us. We are as safe on sea as on shore. There are watchful eyes in every part of the ship day and night. If a fire should break out it can be extinguished. Twice a week there is fire practice. In case of a storm the ship would ride the waves like a duck. In case of a 92 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE wreck there are boats enough to carry all on board. We lie down at night and sleep feeling as secure as if we were at home. In 1888 I crossed the Atlantic twice. The days and nights were cold. Passengers sat on deck wrapped in heavy rugs. They wore their winter clothing. We have had warm weather from the first. There has been fno need of an overcoat or of a rug. One can sit on deck for hours and watch the play of the waves and listen to their music. Their glory and beauty remind one of the words, “The sea is his, and he made it.” On the Atlantic you see ships every day. We have seen one only since we left. What does that mean? This, that the bulk of the commerce of the world belongs to Christian nations. As China and Japan receive the Gospel, the Pacific will be covered with ships as is the Atlantic. On Friday night we dropped anchor before Honolulu, and waited for the day. We have had a delightful passage. There has been no fog, no storm, and no sickness. On Monday the screw lost one of its blades. This accident broke up the monotony and was a positive refreshment. The captain and engineer decided to go on. By using all the sails we have made as good progress with three blades as otherwise we would have made with four. One passenger, evidently a son of Belial, insists that the accident was because of the psalm-singing before leaving the dock. Whatever the cause, we have lost no time and are nearing port with thankful hearts. God is good. He has given us a prosperous voyage. He has answered the prayer we offered when starting, “ Keep us, Lord, for the ocean is so wide, and our boat is so small.” Blessed be his glorious name forever, and let the whole earth be filled with his glory ! IV. THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. In 1809 a native of these Islands sat on the doorsteps of Yale College and wept. His name was Henry Obookiah. In a civil war his father and mother had been slain; he had been taken prisoner. Escaping, he made his way to New Haven. He thirsted for knowl- edge, and went to the college buildings hoping that his thirst might be slaked. Hope failing, he sat down and wept. A resident grad- uate found him and took him as a pupil. That autumn Samuel J. Mills visited New Haven to awaken an interest in missions. Oboo- kiah told him his story. “The people are very bad; they pray to gods made of wood.” He longed to be able to read the Bible that he might go back and teach them to pray to God up in heaven. Mills wrote Gordon Hall, “What does this mean? Bro. Hall, do you understand it? Shall he be sent unsupported to reclaim his countrymen? Shall we not rather consider these Southern Islands a proper place for the establishment of a mission?” Other Hawaiian lads came to America, and after their conversion wished to go back and preach Christ to their own people. Obookiah did not live to publish the glad tidings in his own land. He died before completing his college course. A sketch of his life was pub- lished. It created a profound and widespread interest. It called foi’th legacies from the dying, tears, prayers and donations from the living. Two years later the American Board sent a band of missionaries to evangelize these Islands. In the band there were three Hawaiians and seven Americans and their wives. They sailed in the brig “Thaddeus.” * The ten Islands of this group have an area of a little less than Massachusetts. The people were in the lowest depths of bar- barism. They were a race of thieves, gamblers and drunkards. Children wore no clothing; men and women almost none. The king visited the missionaries on board ship. He wore a narrow scarf about his waist, a silk scarf thrown over his shoulders, a string of beads around his neck, and a wreath of feathers around * See “The Hawaiian Islands.” by Anderson; “The Hawaiian Mission,” by Bartlett and Hyde, for further information. 23 24 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE his head. Polygamy and polyandry were prevalent. A man could marry as many wives as he could feed; he could turn them adrift at pleasure. A woman could have as many husbands as she chose: she could turn them off and take others. The king had five wives. Each one had her day of service, when she followed her lord with a spit-dish and a fly-brush. Parents prostituted their daughters, and husbands their wives for gain. Two-thirds of the children were either strangled or buried alive. Aged parents were buried alive, or left to die of neglect. Maniacs were stoned. Captives were tortured and slain. Government and religion were oppressive. There was no law but the will of the chief. The people were ruled with a rod of iron. They had no rights that the chiefs were bound to respect. The land and all its products and the people belonged to the rulers. It was a crime punished with death for a common man to let his shadow fall on a chief, or for a woman to eat Avith her husband, or to eat fowl, pork, cocoanut, or banana. When a chief died the people knocked out their front teeth, shaved their heads, burned themselves, broke through all restraints, and prac- ticed all manner of crime, as if it A\rere a virtue. All ages and both sexes gave scope to the vilest passions, of self-torture, robbery, licentiousness and murder. Whatever the priest wanted for the god — food, a house, land, or human sacrifice — must be forth- coming. When the people built a temple, some of them were offered in sacrifice at its dedication. It was among such people that the missionaries were to live and Avork. So dark was the pros- pect that a clergyman said to them before sailing, “Probably none of you will live to see the downfall of idolatry.” But God is better than our fears, better than our hopes even. After a voyage of five months the missionaries caught a glimpse of Hawaii. In a few hours a boat put off and soon returned. One of the native workers was seen swinging his hat in the air and heard shouting, “The idols are no more.” He learned that the old king Avas dead, and that his son succeeded him; that the images of the gods Avere all burned ; that the men ate with the Avomen ; that but one chief Avas killed in settling the affairs of the government, and he for refusing to destroy his gods. The missionaries wrote, “Sing, O heavens, for the Lord hath done it.” What was pre- dicted they should not live to see Avas done before their arrival. Surely God had anticipated them Avith the blessing of goodness. A council of chiefs Avas called to decide whether they should be allowed to remain. The king, seeing that the strangers had one wife each, objected that if he received them he Avould have to THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 25 content himself with one. Some foreigners did not want them to stay. They said: “They have come to conquer the Islands.” The chiefs replied: “In that case they would not have brought their women.” The decision was favorable. Not only the king, but the high priest threw his weight into the scale. The missiona- ries began work at once. The king and the chiefs were the first pupils. In three months the king could read English; in six months several chiefs could both read and write. The first convert was the king’s mother. She was the daughter of a race of kings, the wife of a king, and mother of two kings. Her person was sacred. There were times when no one might see her. When she walked abroad at the close of day, whoever saw her fell prostrate to the earth. Several of the high chiefs followed her example. Within five years after the missionaries landed it was decided to recognize the Lord’s day, and to adopt the Ten Commandments as the basis of government. It was made unlawful for women to visit ships for immoral purposes. In eight years the converts numbered fifty, and the Sunday-school scholars 26,000. The workers made repeated tours of the Islands, and pressed home the claims of the Gospel. The effect was wonderful. The natives came in compa- nies to inquire what they should do to be saved. Ten or twenty would be in the mission house conferring with the missionary, and as many more would be outside waiting their turn. The inquirers numbered 2,500. They were kept waiting for a year, and then admitted to the church only on the strictest examination. So inviting was this field that the American Board sent out thirty-two new workers, male and female, making a total staff of sixty-four. Scarcely had they reached the field when one of the most remarka- ble awakenings in the history of the Church began. The congrega- tions were immense. They numbered from four to six thousand. Men preached from seven to thirty times a week. There were conversions at almost every service. From 1838 to 1843 there were 27,000 admitted to the churches. The next twenty years there were over 20,000, making the whole number added about 50,000. In a little book entitled JEshcol, the story is told of the work of Titus Coan. He labored at Hilo. His parish was from one to three miles wide, and a hundred miles long. He had 15,000 people in his charge. They were vicious, sensual, and shameless, living like wild animals. Under his preaching nearly the whole popula- tion turned out to hear the Word. The sick and lame Avere brought on litters, or on the backs of men; the infirm crawled to the trail where the man of God was to pass, that they might catch 26 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE some word of life. The interest deepened. It was found that the missionary could not go to the people; so they came to him. Two- thirds of the entire population left their homes and built their cabins near the mission house. The village of Hilo saw its popula- tion of one thousand increase to ten thousand. For two years this camp-meeting lasted. There were meetings daily for prayer and preaching. Mr. Coan once preached three times before breakfast. Often he had no leisure; no, not so much as to eat. In twelve months he admitted 5,000 to the church. Among these were men and women who had been idolaters, unclean, robbers, sorcerers, thieves and drunkards. In his ministry he had 12,000 conversions. As many people can read in that district in proportion to the whole population as in Illinois, and the Lord’s day is better observed than in New England. The institutions of civilization have taken the place of the old savage life. These people were not content with having the Gospel ; they wanted to send it to those who had it not. They have sent workers to the Marquesan, to the Marshall, and to the Gilbert Islands. In 1870, when the American Board withdrew from this field and left the churches to maintain and to manage the work, it was reported that the natives gave $30,000 that year for Christian objects; thirty per cent of their ministers were foreign missionaries; twenty-two per cent of their contributions were for the foreign field. Their church build- ings are worth $250,000. Such is an outline of what forty ordained workers, their wives, and their lay helpers, under the blessing of God, accomplished in fifty years. Had Obookiah been alive he would have said, “Behold, what hath God wrought! ” He would have seen Honolulu, once a village of grass huts, a substantial city' ; a race of once naked savages clothed and in their right mind; a nation of readers, whereas he left them without an alphabet; Christian marriage instead of polygamy and polyandry; property secure everywhere, whereas once it was safe nowhere; hundreds of churches and common schools; two female seminaries; a normal and a high school; a theological seminary; twenty-nine native preachers, beside eighteen male and female missionaries; some 20,000 living church members, and a government with a settled constitution, a legislature, and courts of justice. Are no deductions to be made? Yes. The converts are not all just men made perfect. They do not rank as high as do the people in the United States. It would not be reasonable to expect that people removed only one generation from barbarism would show the stability, the culture, the moral excellence of those who have THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS had the Gospel for a thousand years. It would be fairer to com- pare them with the churches in the apostolic age. Here as there the tares grew among the wheat. In Corinth a crime was com- mitted that was unknown among the heathen. Yet this very church was enriched in all utterance and knowledge so that it came behind in no gift. In Hawaii there were those who were living epistles known and read of all men. They were the joy and crown of the workei’s. If some were babes when they ought to be full grown men, and if some apostatized, we need not marvel. Such things have happened before and will again. Besides, it should be borne in mind that these people have been exposed to peculiar temptations. During the whaling season the foreign population equals one-half the population of Honolulu. Their influences are not good. Before the Gospel came women swam out to the ships. When the missionaries interfered, they imperiled their own lives. The house of Mr. Richards was twice assailed by men from English and American ships. They threatened to destroy the property and to take the lives of the missionaries if the laws interfering with their lustful indulgence were not abrogated. Had it not been for the natives they would have executed their threats. The popula- tion of the Islands is declining. Before the missionaries came, war, infanticide and licentiousness cut down the people as the reaper cuts down grass. Since then drink, measles, small-pox, leprosy, and vile diseases introduced by seamen, have increased the mortality. The use of clothing has had its disadvantages. The natives dressed heavily and then undressed and sat in the draft and took cold. Cold developed into rheumatism and con- sumption. When they drank they drank to excess. A savage peo- ple know nothing of moderation. At one time the king and the people formed a great temperance society; what was drunk on the Islands was for the most part by foreigners. There is cause for sad- ness in the thought that the Hawaiian people are dying out. But the work done among them was not in vain. Thousands were born into the kingdom. A whole race was uplifted and ennobled. The missionaries established free schools in every district. They gave the people a literature in their own tongue. Children were taught to read, write, sing by note; they were taught arithmetic, grammar and geography. They were given the open Bible, the Magna Charta of all our liberties, the source of all our blessings. If the nation should cease to exist, the work done has been worth many times what it cost. From first to last, about a million dollars was spent on this mission. That would not pay for one-fourth of an 28 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE iron-clad. It would not defray its current expenses for a year. It is a paltry sum when eternal issues are at stake. The Indians near Boston and near Philadelphia perished; but the labors of John Eliot and David Brainei’d were not in vain. The chui’ches that Paul planted on his missionary toui’s have disappeared, but he did not live and die to no pui-pose. God has been honored and obeyed. The power of the Gospel was demonstrated when demonstration was needed. A good work was done. One competent witness said: “The deeper I pushed my inquiries, the stronger became my conviction that what had been on your part necessai-ily an experi- mental work in modern missions, had, under God, proved an emi- nent success. Every sunrise brought me new reasons for admiring the power of divine grace, which can lift the poor out of the dust and set him among princes.” He found the Bible in almost every hut; prayer a popular habit, and the Lord’s day more strictly observed than in New York. Richard Heni'y Dana states that in no place in the world were the rules which control vice and regu- late amusement so strict. They are reasonably and fairly enforced. He found no hut without its Bible and hymn book in the native tongue; and the practice of family prayer and gi’ace before meat, though it be no more than a calabash of poi and a few dried fish, and, whether at home or on a journey, as common as in New England a century ago. Dr. A. P. Peabody said: “Fifty years ago the half-reasoning elephant or the tractable and troth-keeping dog might have seemed the peer or more of the unreasoning and conscienceless Hawaiian. From that very race, from that very generation with which the nobler brutes might have scorned to claim kindred, have been developed the peel’s of saints and angels.” This is the Lord’s doing, and it is marvelous in our eyes. y. THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. Our ship reached her moorings in Honolulu on Saturday morn- ing, August 10th. We remained thei*e three days for repairs. T. D. Garvin came on board and invited me to his home. W. C. Weedon was on the pier to repeat the welcome already extended. Mrs. Garvin had a hot breakfast waiting. She knows the direct route to the heart. Miss Wirick had arrived on the Belgic the night before, and was domiciled with the Garvins. She was on her way from Tokyo to Des Moines. Miss Harrison and Miss Beard and the gentlemen who are members of the preacher’s family showed me much kindness. This brief stay enabled me to see the place and the people, and to learn some things that otherwise I should never know. The Hawaiian Islands lie between the Tropic of Cancer and the Equator. They extend from northwest to southeast a distance of three hundred and eighty miles. They are in the track of com- merce between the United States and Australasia, and Panama and China. They are now, and must continue to be, an important com- mercial center. They are not a group, it has been said, but a string of islands, or rather a string of pearls in the sapphire center of the great American seas. They are of volcanic origin. They contain many extinct craters, while on one island there are two craters still active. On the Island of Maui there is the largest extinct crater in the world. The mountain is ten thousand and thirty feet above the sea. The crater is twenty miles in circumference and two thousand seven hundred feet deep. London and New York could both be placed in it. The Island of Hawaii has the two largest active vol- canoes on the globe. One is as high as Pike’s Peak. Oahu is the most important Island, since it contains the capital, Honolulu, and possesses the best harbor. Hawaii is much the largest, and gives its name to the group. Though the Islands are within the tropics, the weather is mild. The average temperature for the year is 74°. The average of the coldest months is 69°, the average of the warm- est is 78°. The trade winds and ocean currents moderate the heat. The weather consists of sunshine and breezes. 29 30 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE Captain Cook discovered and brought these Islands into connec- tion with the rest of the world in 1778. He called them the Sand- wich Islands, after his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, but the official name is the Hawaiian Islands. Cook left goats and pigs and seeds of melons, pumpkins and onions with the natives. He left, too, diseases unknown before, which spread and caused misery and death. For a time Cook was worshiped as a god. Pigs were offered and prayers were recited to him. He was installed as an incarna- tion of the god Lono. He moved among them as an earthly deity, observed, feared and worshiped. His men were looked upon as supernatural beings. The messengers sent to the other islands said: “The men are white; their skin is loose and folding; their heads are angular; fire and smoke issue out of their mouths; they have openings in the sides of their bodies into which they thrust their hands, and draw out iron, beads, nails and other treasures; and their speech is unintelligible.” On his second visit Cook was killed. The natives grew weary of the conduct of his crews. Quarrels arose and several perished. George Vancouver, a captain of the British navy, visited the Islands three times, in 1792, in 1793, and in 1794. He introduced orange trees and grape vines and cows and sheep. He refused to sell firearms or ammunition. He wras a friend of the natives, and his name is held by them in grateful and loving remembrance. Horses were introduced by Captain Cleveland in 1803. Some of the men that visited the Islands were kind and cour- teous and did what they could to uplift and ennoble the natives. The most were not so. They debased and debauched them; they outraged and robbed and shot them without cause. The king that was on the throne in Cook’s time and Vancouver’s time put an end to petty wars and feudal anarchy and consolidated the Islands under one government, and thus prepared them in part for Christianity and civilization. The first missionaries landed in 1820. Some Botany Bay convicts had pi’eceded them and circulated all sorts of evil reports about them. It was a question whether they would be allowed to remain. God decided the issue in their favor. It was not long till the term missionary became one of honor. If a man was decent and paid his debts quarterly he was set down as a missionary, though he might have no more to do with the spread of the Gospel than Claus Spreckles has to-day. The missionaries found the idols abolished. But although idolatry was formally and legally done away, its superstitions were destined to survive for generations to come, and to blend with and color their conceptions of Christianity. In the THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 31 first group of missionaries there were two clergymen, five laymen and their wives, and three natives that had been educated in America. The names of the clergymen were Hiram Bingham and Asa Thurston. To some the whole enterprise seemed the very acme of folly. A ship owner said: “These women are fools. They cannot live there, and will, everyone of them, be back within a year, and I have given my captains orders to give them their passages whenever they apply.” He had more of the milk of human kindness in him than faith. These women were neither fools nor cowards. They did live there, and many of them died there. The first ser- mon was preached April 25, 1820, by Mr. Bingham, from the text: “ Fear not, for behold I bring you good tidings of great joy.” The first church was built the next year. It was a thatched house. In course of time a second was built on the same site. It was of thatch and seated 2,000. Some years later a large stone building was erected. The stones were carried for about a mile on the shoulders of the men. Trees were cut on the mountains and dragged to the sea and floated around to Honolulu. This house still stands. A slab of marble in memory of Mr. Bingham states that he preached there for twenty years, taught confiding kings and queens and chiefs, faced dangers, bore calumny from abroad, aided in reducing the language to writing, translated the most of the Bible, composed books, hymns and tunes, baptized a thousand con- verts, planned this edifice, and with his loving people, on June 8, 1839, laid the adjoining corner-stone, beneath which was placed a Hawaiian Bible, which was first published May 10, 1839. From here, amid loud wailings of many of his flock, he sailed on August 3, 1840, to visit his native land; but never returning was not with them when on July 12, 1842, with joyful acclamations they thus dedi- cated this church to Jehovah our God for ever and ever. More than once his life was in peril. A drunken sailor brandishing his knife said, “You are the man every day.” Another aimed a blow at him with an ugly club. His pupils interfered and saved his life. He had interfered with their passions and lusts; that was the head and front of his offending. The first printing was done in 1822. The first marriage was solemnized the same year. The relations between the sexes had been very loose in the dark days. Almost everything connected with the lives of the people had to do with religion, except marriage. The missionaries introduced a new order of things. The original workers were strongly reinforced from time to time. The good work spread all over the Islands. The whole peo- ple were gathered into churches and schools and Christian homes. 32 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE They were clothed and in their right mind. Missionaries were sent to the Gilbert, to the Marshall, and to Marquesas Islands. When the Jubilee was obsei'ved the motto seen everywhere was this: “The life of the land is perpetuated by righteousness.” Back of the old stone church is the graveyard where the missionaries and their fam- ilies are buried. Under royal palms and firs they rest from their labors. This is holy ground; it is God’s acre. I saw the mauso- leum where the ashes of kings and queens repose, but no place in Honolulu stirred my soul so deeply as this. Next to the churches the most interesting place in Honolulu is the Bishop Museum of Potynesian Ethnology and Natural History. This museum is the most extensive and the most complete of its kind in existence. It contains between fifty and sixty thousand curiosities. Every group in the Pacific is represented. In this museum we can see how the natives lived. Here are models of their houses, and specimens of their furniture and clothing and orna- ments. We can see how they prepared and served their food. Here are their canoes and fishing tackle and surf boards and weap- ons of war. Here are the tools they used and the gods they wor- shiped. Here are specimens of the animal life of the Pacific, — birds, fish, snakes, kangaroos, insects and shellfish. The Curator, W. T. Brigham, A. M., is a very intelligent and interesting gentleman. He took us through and explained everything. It was a rare treat. The houses of the people were of frame and thatched with straw. The king’s palace looked like a haystack. The building of a house was a religious act. The priest must select the timber and decide the time for cutting it. He must select the site. A man must be sacrificed and placed under the main post. After the building was thatched the priest must locate the door. A raised portion of the floor served for a bed. There was no chimney; the smoke got out as best it could or stayed within. The thatch soon got full of ver- min, and the house, being poorly ventilated, became musty and unwholesome. The furniture was simple. It consisted of a few calabashes to hold food and clothing, some dishes for pig, dog or fish, some water bottles, a few rolls of mats and bundles of cloth. The mat could be used for a bed, or for a coat, or for a sail. The chiefs used no spoon or fork. The greasy nature of roast pig or dog or the sticky nature of poi made finger-bonds a necessity. Slop basins were used to receive the refuse of the food, such as fish bones and banana skins. These were often inlaid with the teeth or bones of slain enemies. We saw one that must have had two hun- dred teeth in it. A chief when dying would strictly charge his T. D. Garvin. Lieut. Stileman. THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 33 friends to see that his bones were buried where no enemy could find them to make of them arrows to shoot mice, or fish-hooks, or to adorn his slop basin. Clothing was made from the bark of a tree. It was beaten out thin on a wooden anvil, they had a method of coloring it. Some patterns are quite pretty. I he principal source of food was the taro plant. This was beaten in a wooden dish with a stone pestle. When it fermented it was called poi. It is palat- able and nourishing. It was man’s work to prepare food; it was woman’s work to prepare clothing. Their ornaments consisted of bracelets, fans, anklets, bangles, necklaces, ear-rings and combs, made of beautiful shells. Their canoes were well made. Their weapons of war are poor things compared with Krupp guns, but they answered their purpose. The stone adze was their chief cut- ting tool. With it they felled trees and made canoes and paddles and spears and idols. They had gouges and chisels which were made of sharks’ teeth and drills made from shells or lava splinters. They used lava and corals of various surfaces to polish with. With, these simple instruments they accomplished surprising results. They made bowls as round as if they had been turned in a lathe. Among the thousands of things seen were pillows of quaint designs, sandals, scratchees, stone lamps, loving cups, spittoons, bone needles, large tureens in which human flesh was served at cannibal feasts, coats of armor, cloth shields, swords, fish-nets, mirrors, pipes. One curious thing was a chief’s belt with one hundred and twenty human teeth fastened to it. The teeth indicated that he had killed and eaten that number. The teeth were trophies and were worn as an Indian savage wore his scalps. The idols do not resemble any thing in heaven above or on earth beneath. No doubt these gods are still worshiped by a few. We saw in one case an offering that was made in June of the current year. It consisted of two bottles of whisky. Each had a corkscrew for the convenience of the spirits, who have no teeth. In one room are portraits of all the kings and queens, beginning with Kamehameha the Great (1737-1819) down to the present time. Not only so, but there are portraits of many distinguished people who were connected with the Islands in some way. The Curator pointed out Princess Ruth. She weighed about four hundred pounds. It took five men to help her into the saddle when she went out for a ride. She measured around the waist sixty inches. Once she proposed to compress her waist as foreigners do. She got a corset and got a number of court flunkies to assist. She emptied her lungs and asked them to haul in the slack. She repeated this 3 34 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE process two or three times, but when she began to breathe every- thing broke, and she was as large as before. She despaired of a wasp waist. Once the Curator tried to waltz with her. He might as well have tried to get his arm around a hogshead. He wished he had been able to take Sydney Smith’s advice and dance with her by sections or read the riot act and disperse her. There are books of all kinds in this room relating to the Islands. The one that interested me most was a copy of the Hawaiian Bible pub- lished in 1839. It contains 2,331 pages. In addition there are Bibles in the following tongues: Tahitian, Malagasy, Rarotongan, Tongan, Maori, Gilbert Island, Marshall Island. The Curator pointed out a cannon ball that was fired at Mr. Richards’ house to compel him to pei'mit the women to visit the ships as they did while in their heathen blindness. “ Mr. Richards did not scare; a bit,” was the only comment. One of the blackest chapters in human history is that which records the deeds of some British and Ameri- can seamen in their dealings with the natives. It would have been better for them if a millstone turned by an ass had been hung about their necks and they cast into the sea. We visited the Palace and saw several members of the Cabinet. As we drove up ex-Queen Liliuokalani came out on her balcony. She is a state prisoner, and is not allowed to receive visitors. We found the Legislature in session. The question before both houses was that of a subsidy toward a cable between the Islands and the United States. In the lower house an interpreter repeated every speech; the Senate needed none. The government is a Republic in name. In some important respects it differs from our American notion of a Republic. For example, the Constitution was “ promulgated; ” it was not adopted by the people. The Con- stitutional Convention elected a President to serve six years. His successor will be elected by the Legislature. But in his election there must be a majority of all the Senators. The aim seems to be to keep all the power in the Senate. No man can be a Repre- sentative unless he owns property in the Republic worth not less than one thousand dollars over and above all incumbrances, or has received a money income of not less than six hundred dollars dur- ing the year preceding the election. To be a Senator one must own property worth three thousand dollars, or have been in receipt of twelve hundred dollars during the year just before the election. And no one can vote for a Senator who lias not real property worth fifteen hundred dollars over and above all incumbrances, or per- sonal property worth three thousand dollars over and above all THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 35 incumbrances, or has actually received a money income of not less than six hundred dollars the year before the date of the election. The franchise is in the hands of the property-holders very largely. There is no such thing as manhood suffrage. All agree that the government is wisely and honestly and economically administered. It is by far the best government the Islands have ever had. The commerce of the Islands is constantly increasing. In 1893 the imports and exports amounted to $16,089,467.08. In ten years (1884-1893) they aggregated $157,815,052.77. There are eighty-one corporations registered with an actual paid-up capital of $21,937,- 160. The gross income for the year ending July 1, 1893, was $10,004,187. The cultivation of sugar-cane is the chief industry. In 1893 the crop was 150,000 tons. This at seventy dollars a ton represents $10,500,000. The rice crop is estimated at 30,000,- 000 pounds. The raising of cattle comes third. The coffee indus- try is yet in its infancy, but 5,000 acres being planted. The people claim that it is the best coffee in the world. The real and personal property is assessed for taxation purposes at nearly $40,000,000. It is said that all the tropical trees and fruits will flourish on the Islands. At the present time one can see the orange, lemon, citron, bread-fruit, mango, persimmon, almond, cocoanut, pine- apple, banana, fig, lime, tamarind, plum, algeroba, grape, pear, banyan, and almost every variety of palm. Beside these the soil produces yams, potatoes, beets, carrots, onions, peas, beans, corn, melons, cabbage, cauliflower, squash and tomatoes. Taro is largely grown and used. The revenue from all sources amounts to $1,625,- 000. The public debt is $3,400,000. The government pays for free schools $240,000 a year. Practically every man and woman and child on the Islands can read and write. The government pays $170,000 for the support of the lepers. They are segregated on the Island of Molokai. They have 5,000 acres set apart for their use. On three sides they are surrounded by the sea, and on the fourth there is a precipice over 2,000 feet high. It was there that Father Damien did his work and won immortal fame. The natives are dying out. Captain Cook estimated that there were 400,000 people on these Islands. This estimate was too high. In 1832 there were 130,313. Between 1850 and 1884 there was a decrease of 62,385. The population in 1894 was 100,044. Of this number 41,736 are Hawaiians; 15,000 are Chinese; 21,600 are Japanese, and 21,708 are Americans or Europeans. The property is now for the most part in the hands of the whites. The indus- trial development of the Islands has changed the character of the 36 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE population. On the street one sees people from all parts of the world. Honolulu is cosmopolitan. There are on the streets Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, South Sea Islanders, Scotch, English, Germans, Canadians, Americans, and Hawaiians. The population being changed, there is now a new religious problem. The American Board felt that it could withdraw from the field thirty years ago. But new peoples are coming in. As this indus- trial development continues, more and more will come. A walk with W. C. Weedon through the Chinese and Japanese quarters near midnight shows that there is room for all who wish to work. The Hawaiian Evangelical Association is doing a great work; still there are thousands whom the Gospel has not touched. The Roman Catholics entered the Islands in 1827. Their claims were backed with French cannon. They have now a strong staff and many adherents. The Church of England sent some workers here in 1862. They have not made much headway, so far as I could learn. For several years there have been a number of Disciples in Hono- lulu. Their homes and their business interests are hei’e. They are incurable Disciples. They want their children to grow up in the faith. Nearly two years ago they invited T. D. Garvin to settle among them and to organize a church. One year ago a congrega- tion of eleven members was organized. They number now thirty- five. Nine others were added, but these were organized into another church on board the British ship of war, The Hyacinth. Lieutenant Stileman is their minister. A Sunday-school was organized last December. There was then one scholar; now there are fifty. A chapel is in course of erection, and will soon be ready for use. It will not be as fine as the Union Central Church, which cost $137,000, but it will answer all purposes just as well. Last year six men assumed all the expenses of this enterprise. It was a brave thing to do, but they did it. Miss Harrison is at work among the Japanese. The day I was there one was baptized in a pool that once was used only by the great chiefs for bathing purposes. Dr. Garvin has baptized a hundred Japanese since he came to Hono- lulu. Many of these are scattered far and wide. Some of them will carry the good seed into their new homes, and God only can foresee the results. On Sunday I spoke twice in Harmony Hall, and once to the Japanese through Miss Harrison. The audiences wei’e good and attentive. Among them were Hon. A. S. Willis, American Minister, and his wife and son. They invited us to break bread with them on Monday. Under their hospitable roof we THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 37 forgot time and space, and fancied we were back in an old Ken- tucky home. There was some feeling at first against our people organizing a church in Honolulu. But that feeling is giving way. Dr. McArthur told the pastors that if the Disciples had not begun a work, he would urge the Baptists to send a man there at once. As it is, there is no need. In 1820 Honolulu had a population of 4,000, living in grass huts; a few cocoanut trees, no flowers, no greensward, no water, no horses or carriages. All around was a barren waste. Now it is a well-built town, with beautiful groves and flowers of every kind, carriages and horses without number, electric light, water-works, a kindergarten, schools for boys and girls, a college and seminary, a public reading room, a Young Men’s Christian Association, eighteen papers and magazines, the Queen’s Hospital, with its magnificent grounds, the Lunalilo Home for the aged poor, elegant mansions occupied by men who have made colossal fortunes, the Palace and the Temple of Justice, the telephone, and all the appointments of modern civilization. W. M. Hopper took me to the Punchbowl, an extinct volcano back of the city. One might go over the world and not see a finer view. At the foot of the moun- tain is the beautiful city; far away in one direction is Pearl Harbor; in another direction is Diamond Head; back of you are the mountains; before you is the wide ocean. It was a glorious sight. While there the thought was suggested, suppose Captain Cook could revisit this place, what would he think? He would think he had lost his bearings, and was borne by wind and wave to the “Paradise of the Pacific.” My visit in Honolulu was exceedingly pleasant. The friends there did everything in their power for my comfort and for my profit. Miss Beard and Mrs. Hopper placed their carriages at my service. Dr. Garvin went with me evex-y where. I saw more than 1 could have seen in a month had I been alone. The native women wear their Mother Hubbard di’ess on the sti’eet and to church, but I soon foi’got that. Even the mosquitoes were better than their i*eputation. Only one thing disturbed my equanimity. W. C. Weedon gave my shoes to his Japanese servant to clean. He looked at them in dismay, and said, “Big! Me could live in them.” Aside from this unfeeling remark of the diminutive Asiatic, all my memories of Honolulu are delightful. VI. “THE ISLES SHALL WAIT FOR HIS LAW.” As we steam out from Honolulu towards Japan, we cannot but think of the islands lying to the south of us. A glance at the map of the Pacific will show how numerous these are. “The whole ocean is studded with ocean gems, as if the mirror of the starry sky above it.” Three hundred of these islands have been evangelized, and are centers of light and life. The Hawaiians felt at an early day that they ought to carry the Gospel to those sitting in darkness and in the shadow of death. They rightly felt that only thus could they retain the truth which they had received, and become strengthened and established in the faith. In 1853 two native pastors and their wives, in answer to a call from the Marquesas Islands, volunteered for that field. Rev. P. W. Parker, an American, accompanied them that he might counsel and encourage them. A Roman Catholic priest demanded that these missionaries should be sent away, on the ground that these Islands belonged to the French. One of the chiefs said: “No; the land is not yours. It belongs to this jrnople. There never was a Frenchman born here. These teachers must not be sent back.” Some years afterward a native was invited to dine on board a whale-ship. He would not eat anything until he had asked a blessing. In his broken English he said: “O Great Fader! Got no fader; got no moder; got no broder; got no sister! Make first the sea; make first the dry land; make first the moon and stars; make first the trees; then he make man. And now Great Fader, give man his belly full. Amen.” This might have been couched in smoother language, but it would be difficult to make it more expressive or more appropriate. ‘Once an American whale- ship touched at these Islands for supplies. The mate, on going ashore, was seized and dragged away to be killed. Some young men had been stolen by another ship to be sold as slaves. The day of vengeance had now come. The mate was in their power. Through the interposition of a Christian girl and one of the mis- sionaries the mate was saved and sent back to his ship. President Lincoln, hearing of this, sent two gold watches and two silver 38 THE ISLES SHALL WAIT FOR HIS LAW 39 medals, and other gifts, costing live hundred dollars in all, to be distributed among the deliverers. The missionary wrote to the President, “When I saw one of your countrymen ill-treated, and about to be baked and eaten, as a pig is eaten, I ran to deliver him, full of pity and grief at the evil deed of those benighted people. As to this friendly deed of mine, its seed came from your great land, and was brought by certain of your countrymen who had received the love of God. It was planted in Hawaii, and I brought it to plant in this land and in these dark regions, that they might receive the root of all that is good and true, which is love.” When this letter reached Washington, the President was dead and the nation in mourning. Other workers were sent to the Marshall Islands and to the Gil- bert Islands. In the last named group there are nine Hawaiian missionaries and their wives. One of the most precious incidents of my stay in Honolulu was a visit to Dr. Hiram Bingham and his family. He is a son of the pioneer missionary of the same name. His wife is a born linguist and a born missionary. She is a descendant of the Brewster of the Mayflower. His sister is the wife of the sainted Titus Coan. His son, the third Hiram Bing- ham, is a student in Yale, and expects to go to China as a medical missionary. Dr. Bingham now lives in Honolulu, but he has given his life to the Gilbert Islands. He and his wife were left alone with God among a savage people. Those who think that the natives without the Gospel are innocent and happy, would do well to interview Dr. Bingham. The}’ began the study of the language at once. As none understood English, this was slow work. They picked up one word after another till in six months they were able to address the people on Gospel themes. They visited the Islands and preached Christ wherever they found an open door. They took their own food and cooking utensils and bedding with them. They heard from the great world beyond only once a year. They undertook to reduce the language to a written form. There are only thirteen letters in this language. In 1859 Dr. Bingham began the translation of the New Testament. In fourteen years it was completed. In 1883 he began the Old Testament. This was com- pleted in seven years. Mrs. Bingham greatly assisted him. Two natives aided him on the Old Testament. When they came to the last verse a photographer took a picture of the translators and their tools. Dr. Bingham gave me a copy. No other gift could be so highly prized. Mrs. Bingham has written a book of Bible stories. They have also prepared a hymn-book. 40 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE The London Missionary Society, the Wesleyan Missionary Soci- ety, the Church Missionary Society, and the United Presbyterian Society of Scotland, have sent workers to these islands. It was in Fiji that John Hunt and Janies Calvert did their work. John Will- iams and his associates labored in the Hervey and Samoan groups and won them to Christ. Norfolk Island was the scene of the labors of Patteson. Marsden and Selvvyn did their work farther south among the Maoris. The New Hebrides were evangelized by Geddie, Gordon and Paton. Several efforts were made to drive Paton away; lie would not go. He would stay at any cost. They sought to kill him; he would not be killed. He lived to see four- teen thousand converts. He still lives, and may see as many more. He tells of his effort to print the Bible. He was not a printer, but by persistence he got the types in their proper place. When the first page was printed, he went out and threw up his hat and shouted and danced for joy. It was long after midnight; the natives were sound asleep; and he was a missionary. But his dance was like David’s when he brought back the ark; it was an act of worship. When water failed, he proposed to dig a well. The peo- ple thought he was insane. They had seen the water come down from the clouds, and never heard of it coining up from the heart of the earth. When they did strike water, they changed their minds and regarded him as a god. He describes the dress of a bride. Over her grass skirts she wore a man’s overcoat, buttoned from her chin to her toes. Over that she wore a man’s vest. To each shoulder she fastened a man’s shirt; one was red and the other was striped. When she walked these moved like wings. Then she took a pair of man’s pantaloons and placed the body of them over her head and allowed the legs to hang down her back. Her head dress was made of a red shirt, and one sleeve hung over one ear, and the other sleeve over the other ear. In this apparel she came to the altar in a July day. The humorous is blended with the heroic. On Savage Island all captives and strangers were sacrificed for their inhuman feasts. A number of Society Island converts deter- mined to make an effort to introduce the Gospel among them. The effort cost the participants their lives. Some three years later a native convert, named Luke, sought permission to make another trial. He was taken in a ship as near the island as was thought prudent for it to go. Luke took a bundle of clothes and a New Testament, and fastening them on his head leaped into the sea and swam ashore. He was seized and was about to be sacrificed. He THE ISLES SHALL WAIT FOR HIS LAW 41 made himself understood and was allowed to deliver his message. The people were interested and spared him till the next day. Having gained their ears he soon gained their hearts. Two or three years later the missionary ship ventured near these shores. They found, to their astonishment and delight, the whole island revolutionized. Savagery had been renounced, and the whole peo- ple wanted to be taught the Christian way. In course of time some workers from this island went to New Guinea. They were all mas- sacred. The question was asked, Who will take their place? Twenty arose and offered themselves for this desperate service. So the work spreads from island to island. The Gospel must propagate itself. Those who have it cannot keep the good news to themselves. The natives of the Friendly Islands were so ignorant they did not know of fire. They ate everything raw. They did not know that water would boil. One missionary says: “When I kindled a fire and boiled some water, I could scarce restrain them from worshiping me as a god. You can imagine how they mar- veled when myself and wife reduced their language to writing, and printed the word of God on our little printing press.” This man lived to see thirty thousand converts on this group. Montgomery wrote : “The immense Pacific smiles Round ten thousand little isles, Haunts of violence and wiles ; But the powers of darkness yield, For the Cross is in the field, And the Light of life revealed.” It is even so. War and waste are giving place to fruitful strifes and rivalries of peace. These islands that once produced nothing now produce figs, limes, oranges, bananas, bread-fruit, guavas, melons, pineapples, yams, sweet potatoes, peanuts, tea, coffee, hemp, leather, silk, wax, timber, copper, tin, gold. And people who once were as stupid as death, and as indifferent as the grave, are now intensely interested in the Word and work of life. The Lord, speaking through the prophet, said: “The isles shall wait for his law;” “The isles shall wait for me, and on mine arm shall they trust;” “Surely the isles shall wait for me.” These prophecies have been largely fulfilled. The Gospel has reached Madagascar, Formosa, Java, Sumatra, Celebes, Borneo, New Guinea, New Zealand. Over the door of the postoffice in Hong Kong are the words: “As cold water is to a thirsty soul, so is good news from a far country.” In Ceylon a Brahman was asked 42 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE if he worshiped the gods. He said, “The gods worship me.” A traveler saw some trees marked “X.” He asked what this mark indicated. He was told that every X tree was devoted to the Lord. He saw a woman throw a handful of rice into the pot for every member of the family, and then two handfuls into a pot near the tire. She said, “This is the Lord’s rice pot, and I remember him when cooking each meal.” So on every continent and every island of the sea the Gospel is having free course and is being glorified. So it must continue, for the promise confirmed with an oath is this, “As I live, saith the Lord, all the earth shall be filled with my VII. FROM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA. The Hawaiians are passionately fond of music and flowers. The Royal Band plays when ships arrive and when they depart. Friends cover those about to leave with wreaths and garlands. The ship and officers and passengers are decorated. Mr. and Mrs. W. M. Hopper, W. L. Templeton and W. C. Weedon, drove me to the ship and arrayed me in becoming style, and stood on the pier wav- ing good wishes and farewells as long as they could distinguish one passenger from another. Their wreath made my room fragrant for a week; their kindness will be precious for all time. There is another Hawaiian custom that is not so beautiful. When a ship comes in or goes out, scores of boys swim out and call on the passengers to throw a nickel or a dime into the sea that they may show how they can dive and get it. These lads are “ tolerably amphibious.” They swim like fish. When a coin is thrown they dive instantly and some one catches it before it reaches the bottom. It would be better if passengers did not encourage this somewhat demoralizing practice. The boys earn a precarious living. The strong and swift succeed fairly well; the weak and slow get little or nothing. It would be better for these stout lads to earn a living in some other way. When our ship was across the bar we looked about a little. It was plain that our passenger list was greatly increased. We took on four hundi'ed Japanese in Honolulu. The Government imports Japanese and Chinese and Portuguese, and leases them to the planters. They come on a three years’ contract. When the con- tract expires they can remain on the Islands or return home. The Government sees that the rights of these people are conserved. Truant officers see that all children of a certain age are in school. A portion of their wages is deposited in the Savings Bank every month to their credit. This is paid over to them in bulk when the contract has been fulfilled. With this amount of capital they can stai’t in business in a small way on the Islands, or they can return home and buy a small property or go into business there. Those 43 44 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE that took passage on the City of Peking had finished a term of three years. As times are dull on the Islands, and as the fare was reduced to ten dollars or less, this large number decided to return to Japan. The Japanese are warmly attached to the land of their birth, but not so much so as the Chinese. The Japanese take their wives with them; the Chinese do not. If a Chinese dies on board ship or in a foreign land his body is embalmed and sent to the Flowery Kingdom. Should the annexation of the Hawaiian Islands ever become a live question in the United States this system of con- tract labor would have to be dealt with. The planters say they would be ruined if they had to pay American prices for labor. The list of cabin passengers has been more than doubled. As usual, we have people of all kinds. Some are going on business and are sensible people. Some are making the grand tour just because it is the thing to do. They have struck oil or pay dirt or something else, and can afford to go. They are well-dressed, have as many diamonds as they can display, and look as if they did not need to offer the Scotchman’s prayer for a “ good conceit of them- selves.” When they open their mouths and expose their minds, and set forth their plans and purposes, the disenchantment is com- plete. Coleridge met a handsome man at a dinner party. His head was covered with great knobs as if the brain was too large for the skull. He seemed to be Solon and Solomon and Aristotle and Bacon in one. “ I wish he would speak,” thought Coleridge. “ In his capacious mind are treasures of knowledge and wisdom by which we all might profit.” Toward the close of the banquet he did speak, and this is what he said: “Pass me them dumplings; them’s the jockies for me.” It was enough. The poet and philos- opher was satisfied. There are people who cross the Atlantic and the Pacific every year ostensibly to improve their minds. The x'eal reason is, it is the thing to do. It requires more than a letter of credit and a vulgar display of diamonds and an extensive wardrobe to make such a trip with profit. A ride from Sleepy Hollow to Frogtown and return would do them as much good. The steamship and railroad companies, the hotels and dealers in bric-a-brac make something out of them. The rustics among whom they dwell will regard their trip as a nine days’ wonder, but that is all. If they were willing to deny themselves and use this money to give some boy or girl an education, or to aid some worthy enterprise, they would make far better use of their time and their means. How is the world advantaged by any number of people carrying their low aims and vulgar conceptions of life and their bad grammar around FROM H02WLULU TO YOKOHAMA 46 it simply because they have more money than they can use at home? There are men and women who travel, and every day is a feast to them, and when they return they make good use of what they have learned, but they are not, as a rule, the people who make a display of their wealth. When we started from San Francisco I thought we were on a temperance ship. No one would think so now. It is astonishing how many respectable people drink, and the amount they drink. Women drink as much as men. A man orders a quart of cham- pagne for dinner. He and his wife drink every drop of it. He has a quart of beer or claret for lunch, and as much Apollinaris for breakfast, and a bottle or two during the day. Christian men and women drink on board ship on the plea that the water is bad. The water is not bad, but even if it were it would still be more whole- some than the villainous stuff with which they saturate themselves. On this ship, years ago, a European clergyman was accustomed to take a class of wine before going to bed. One good woman saw him and took the glass from his hand and threw it overboard and gave him a piece of her mind besides. I wish she were with us now. The human appetite is a curious thing. It got our first parents into trouble in Eden, and it has been getting their offspring into trouble ever since. Now, as in Paul’s day, there are those whose stomach is their god. Four days out from Honolulu we crossed the one hundred and eightieth meridian and dropped a day. Had we been going the other way we would have added a day. We woke one morning and called it Friday; we woke the next morning and called it Sunday. We lost one whole day and can never find it unless we retrace our path. The Captain told us that he crossed the meridian once on his birthday. He had no birthday and did not count that year. The ladies exclaimed, “Wasn’t that lovely! I would like to cross on my birthday.” In going east he once had two Easter Sundays together. Some cannot understand this yet. It is a great mystery. We have had all sorts of diagrams and explanations. To most it will remain an insoluble problem. Captain Ward asked me to conduct service on Sunday. On Brit- ish ships the captains, I believe, read the Episcopal service, unless there is an Episcopal clergyman on board. When I crossed the At- lantic in 1888, there were on board Dr. Noble, Dr. Gladden, Dr. El- linwood, and many others, but the captain read the service. He was not 5, religious man. On the way back there were several ministers among the passengers, but no one was asked to lead. The captain, 4G A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE a profane man, took the service. Our ship is under the American flag, and every captain is at liberty in such matters. We met for worship under some disadvantages. The social hall had been swept away by a typhoon a year ago. The books and seats went with it. We met on deck in the open air. Some books were found. The passengers brought their chairs together. The ship rolled and tossed not a little. But we got along very well. The text was: “Ye know that the rulers of the Gentiles lord it over them, and their great ones exercise authority over them. Not so shall it be among you: but whosoever would become great among you shall be your minister; and whosoever would be first among you shall be your servant: even as the Son of man came not to be ministered unto, but to minister, and give his life a ransom for many.” The pagan thought that the great man was the man that was served, and the larger his retinue of servants, the greater the man. Christ taught that the great man is the man who does most to sei’ve and save. The world has called Cyrus, and Alexander, and Pompey, and Frederick, and Constantine, and Napoleon great. This appel- lation was given by court flunkies and flatterers. The men whose names shall be held in everlasting honor and love are the men who have done most to help and bless their kind. It is not by self-asser- tion, but by service and self-sacrifice, that greatness and eternal life are won. The audience was most respectful. A reference was made to George the Fourth. At that point one auditor bobbed up and strutted off in high dudgeon. Perhaps he was related to George and resented any allusion that was not complimentary. In the afternoon a service was conducted in Japanese by S. R. Sasaki. He spoke from the thirteenth chapter of First Corinthians. In the evening Rev. A. D. D. Fraser conducted a service of song. This ser- vice closed appropriately with the hymn, “Jesus, Saviour, Pilot Me.” It was a good day. It was the most pleasant day of the voy- age. Several were thankful for the services, which they spoke of as helpful. The conversation at the table and on the deck is of the most trivial character. I have not heard a bright remark, or a noble sen- timent, or an anecdote worth remembering since I came on board. The talk is about the run, or about the food, or about the prospect of reaching land. Passengers are giving their mind a rest. They must be. They think with their teeth. What is lacking in thought is made up in strong language. The soup is “ perfectly lovely; ” the hash is “ perfectly beautiful; ” the baked beans are “ perfectly delicious;” mangoes are “horrid; ” and onions are “dreadful.” FROM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA 47 One man sleeps “magnificently.” I have listened to tittle-tattle and extravagant expressions till my soul is sick. There is some advantage in being deaf and dumb. I wish we had some savage chief here to pronounce these misused words tabu for the next ninety days. Some things have been said that would be important if they were new or true. “ Prohibition does not prohibit; ” “Pro- hibition is a stupendous failure in Kansas and Iowa; ” “Prohibi- tionists are fools and fanatics;” “Missionaries are on the wrong track; if they would teach the natives to sewer their cities and observe sanitary laws they would do them good; but to send them the Gospel is casting pearls before swine.” Some “chestnuts” have a tough life. The nine lives of a cat are not a circumstance in comparison. Men and women who know no more about these ques- tions than a mule knows about metaphysics talk as dogmatically as if they were omniscient. One passenger maintains that there are no gentlemen in America. There are none who came over with the Conqueror and fought at Hastings; there may be none that came from the castles on the Rhine or on the Danube. But there are men who have done things far nobler, and things that fairly entitle them to be called gentlemen. “Kind hearts are more than coronets, And simple faith than Norman blood.” The way American girls are being changed into Countesses and Duchesses and Marchionesses and Princesses shows that the nobility of the Old World does not consider itself essentially superior to the people of America. The books read are novels and guide-books. The novels as a rule are poor stuff. They indicate the caliber and culture of their readers. I have read “Beside the Bonnie Brier Bush” twice. I gave it to a Scotch missionary. He devoured it at a sitting. This is a noble book. No one can read it without being made better. I have read Froude’s “ Oceana,” and some other solid works. I can understand how Stanley threw away book after book till his Bible only was left. The more one reads, the more this Divine Book becomes to him, and the more evident its immeasurable superiority becomes. It is at once the newest and the oldest of books. It is the most fascinating book to read on train or ship, in the wilder- ness or in the city. We are supposed to be on a vacation, “There is nothing but space and color and breath of the sea; no soil, no mail, no rail, nothing but rest and God.” We drink in ozone from every wave and every breeze. The mind is being fer- 48 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE tilized and invigorated. Let us hope that because of this season of inaction it will give expression to thoughts that will shine and sparkle, to truths that will wake to perish never. A daily walk about the ship is not without interest. The sheep and chickens and turkeys have nearly all disappeared. They have found their way into the pot, and then into the human stomach, the final receptacle of so many things. Man claims to be “lord of the fowl and the brute.” It would be interesting to know what the fowl and the brute think of this omnivorous being. The Japanese sleep on the upper deck. There are berths below, but they are stifling hot. They spread their blankets and pillows on the deck and lie down by the hundred. An awning keeps off the sun and rain. Their clothing is very simple. An average outfit does not cost over seventy-five cents. They wear no hat. Their sandals are worth about five cents a pair. They eat rice and vege- tables and meat, and drink tea. They smoke cigarettes or pipes. Women and men smoke. They gamble as continuously as the Chinese. No one would think from these that cleanliness was a national trait. One is reminded rather of the man who said he made it a rule to wash once a year, whether he needed it or not. Their babies are like babies elsewhere. They would look sweeter if their parents would wash them instead of shaving their heads. These coolies are bone of our bone and flesh of our flesh. It would be interesting to look into their minds and learn their hopes, fears, yearnings. The barrier of language keeps a stranger afar off. It is interesting to watch the machinery that never sleeps and never tires, the officers taking the log and observation, and the Chinese scouring the deck and polishing the brass and iron, so that the ship is clean and bright throughout. A cat and dog below are great pets of the seamen and of the passengers. Two men are in irons. They are partially insane, and are tied to keep them from doing mischief. The cabin passengers sit on their easy chairs, and read or flirt as they feel inclined. The married women do more flirting than the widows or the maidens. Only one man has been seriously sick, and he made no end of fun for the others. He was a fool to go to sea. If he gets ashore alive, he will not venture again. He berates the company for tossing him about, and then charging him for it. That is adding insult to injury. The purser told him as long as he could smoke he was not very sick. That was the straw that broke the camel’s back. That made him appear a pretender. He got angry and got well. For two days the ship rolled a good deal. The passengers went tobogganing about the deck. But no FROM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA 49 one was hurt. We are as safe as if we were on shore. Our ship is practically unsinkable. We are in God’s care and keeping. He is the confidence of all the ends of the earth and of them that are afar off upon the sea. No sparrow falls to the ground wuthout his permission. Day after day we sail on, seeing no ship and no land. We are impressed with the vastness of this wide ocean. “It is,” as Byron said, “boundless, endless, and sublime, the image of eternity.” As we watch and think we are reminded of Faber’s sweet lines: “There is a wideness in God’s mercy, Like the wideness of the sea ; There is a kindness in his justice, That is more than charity.” As we approach Japan letters are written. Trunks are packed. The passengers are in commotion. Everybody is alive and alert. Those who leave the ship in Yokohama and those who do not are alike in earnest. The long voyage is over. We are safe in port. We have heard nothing from the great world since the 3d of August. We shall soon know what has happened in the meantime. Some will hear good news, and some doleful tidings. But God is good and makes all things work according to the counsel of his own will. 4 VIII. JAPAN. We cast anchor in the Bay of Tokyo, August 24. This is the bay into which Commodore Perry steamed in 1853. Then there were a few junks to be seen; now the Bay is covered with ships from all parts of the globe. It was not long before a hundred boats came out to take the passengers ashore. Most of the men in these boats wore only a loin-cloth. It was a strange sight. We felt that we were in a different world from the one we had left. In one of the boats I saw H. II. Guy and two Japanese Christians. They had been waiting for us for three days. A familiar face in a strange land is a pleasant sight. It is like rivers of water in a dry place ; like the shadow of a great rock in a weary land. They took charge of me and my baggage, and in a few minutes we were on the pier in Yokohama. We were not detained long in the Custom House. The officers did not ask me to open anything. They took my word that I had no dutiable goods in my possession. Some did not fare so well. Some wealthy people had to open their trunks and display all their finery. Yokohama is the chief commercial port of Japan. Ships pass- ing between Australia and China and Japan and America call here. Yokohama is the port of Tokyo. Both cities are situated on the same Bay. Seventy- five years ago Yokohama was a village of eighty-seven houses; nowit has a population of 110,000. The for- eign part resembles an English city. The streets are narrow ; the buildings are solid and unattractive ; the business for the most part is conducted by Englishmen. The merchants are not there for their health or for any benevolent purpose. They are there for the money they can make. They charge much more for their goods than men do at home. Some of them are warm friends of missions and illustrate in their own lives the truths of the Gospel, but not all. If all who come here from Christian lands were Christians in deed and in truth, the work of evangelizing Japan would be much easier than it is. At the same time it is admitted that these men have made a substantial contribution to the advancement of Japan. They have introduced new methods and new appliances, and have JAPAN 51 insisted on the rights and the worth of the individual as the Japa- nese did not. Yokohama has its temples and churches and art stores and other places of interest. In one temple an idol sits on a rock amid flames of fire, having a two-edged sword in the right hand and a rope in the left. The meaning is said to be this: It cuts asunder vile thoughts with the sword, purifies the mind with the fire, ties up passions with the rope and keeps them completely under the sway of reason. How many worshipers understand this is not stated. A ride of two miles in a jinricksha brought us to the railroad depot. A jinricksha is a little wagon hauled by a man. The two wheels are about four feet high. It has a cover for rainy weather. The jinricksha was invented by a missionary who had a sick wife. This is now the chief means of going about in Japan. A man will run along at the rate of six miles an hour. The passenger is expected to get out and walk up steep hills. The fare is three and a half cents an hour. The jinricksha men form a guild. This is their life work. For a young man this seems well enough, but when a man gets past sixty or seventy it does seem that he ought to have a lighter task. These little carriages fill the streets. There are thousands of them in every city. They have the right of way. The Japanese seldom drive horses. You see a few hauling carts or serving as pack-horses. But they are slow, sad brutes. They do not look as if they had a spark of ambition in them. Their harness is cumbersome and uncouth. It is enough to make a self-respect- ing animal wish he could hide or kill himself. The weight comes on the collar and on the saddle. The horses used by the police and in the army are fine animals. Oxen are used in the same way. They draw by a rope fastened about their necks. If the load was heavy it would choke them. Horses and oxen are sometimes shod with straw shoes. Most of the hauling is done by human beings. You can see them hauling timber, stones, rice and charcoal in bulk, iron castings, and supplies of every kind. The jinricksha makes good time, but it is not a comfortable carriage, and a passenger is glad when he reaches his destination. A stranger cannot help but think of and pity the coolie who bears him along. A ride of eighteen miles on a railroad brought us to Tokyo. The railroad is of the English pattern. The cars are divided into compartments. One can go first, or second, or third class. The fare is very reasonable. One can travel third-class for half a cent a mile; second-class for less than one cent; or first-class for less than two cents. We passed through rice, millet, sugar-cane and 52 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE cotton fields; along pear orchards and lotus beds; past temples and picturesque villages of Old Japan. Reaching Tokyo, we took a jin- ricksha for our home, a distance of four miles. There is a street railway in this city, but it did not go our way. We were glad when we reached the mission premises. We were most cordially wel- comed by Mrs. Guy. Tokyo is a city of over a million souls. It covers one hundred square miles. Since the Revolution of 1868 it has been the capital. Japan is called the Land of the Rising Sun. The Empire con- sists of four large islands and three thousand small ones. It has an area of 147,000 square miles. It is about as large as California. The greater part of Japan is covered with mountains. Only about twelve per cent of the land is cultivated, or can be cultivated. These islands are of volcanic formation. The earthquake shocks number about five hundred a year. Rice and cotton are raised in great abundance on the main island. Tea and silk are also raised. One-half the value of all the exports comes from raw silk; and the larger part of the remainder comes from tea. In the southern islands cotton, rice, tobacco, sugar, sweet potatoes, oranges, yams and other fruits of a warm latitude flourish. In the Shinto tem- ples in early times prayers were offered for the growth of rice, millet, barley, beans and sorghum. Millet, barley and beans are the principal articles of food among the country people; with the city people rice is the great staple. The land is always made to bear two crops a year. Little is known about the origin of the Japanese people. The authorities are not agreed. One man thinks they are the descend- ants of the Ten Tribes. Another thinks they are of the same stock as our North American Indians. The more probable view is that they are Mongols. It is likely that they are a mixed race. The Ainu wei’e the aborigines of Japan. They live now in the northern part of the Empire. They are a hairy people. Their food and clothing and houses are of the most primitive character. They sel- dom wash themselves or their clothes. They worship rocks, rivers, and mountains. They are afraid of the spirits. The Mongolians reached Japan, so it is .thought, by way of Korea. They drove out or exterminated most of the aborigines. In some cases they inter- married. The Japanese in the main have “yellowish skin, the straight hair, the scanty beard, the broadish skull, the more or less oblique eyes, and the high cheek bones, which characterize all well- established branches of the Mongol I'ace.” But some have full and long beards. Some are as fair as if they were Caucasians. It is JAPAN 53 with some difficulty that they can be distinguished from them. The average height of the Japanese men is 5.02 feet; of the women, 4.66 feet. It will be seen that they are a small race. Yet some of them are fine, large fellows. The population of the Empire is nearly 41,000,000. Most of the people live in cities and villages. For more than a thousand years the government was an absolute monarchy. The Mikado was a descendant of the Sun-Goddess, and held in his hand the supreme authority. He selected some one of his own sons or some prince of the imperial family to succeed him. It was customary for Mikados to abdicate and go into retirement. Thus one began to reign when he was nine and abdicated when he was twenty-six. Another began to reign at eight and abdicated at twenty-three. Another began to reign at five and abdicated at twenty. Another still began to reign at two and abdicated at four. There were as many as four or five Mikados living at the same time. The Mikado that resigned was said to ascend to the rank of an abdi- cated, Mikado. It often happened that the Mikado had no choice in the matter. The men who had the power wanted to keep it in their own hands. If a Mikado began to assert his independence, he was forced to give way to some one who would be more obedient to his masters. Nominally, the Mikado was supreme; really, he was a puppet in the hands of his ministers. One family monopolized all the important offices of the government for four hundred years. The wives and concubines of the emperors were taken from that family. Other families were jealous of this one. As a result, there were plots and counterplots, and wars and rumors of wars. Fur- thermore, it was customary for men who had reached middle life to retire. It was not deemed becoming for a man to engage in the tug for wealth and power till old age. The abdicated Mikados some- times had their wives and court, and exercised far more influence than while they were on the throne. For seven hundred years the government of Japan was dual. There were two Emperors, one a spiritual and one a tem- poral. The Mikado lived in seclusion and was seen by no one but his wives and ministers. He was taught that it was unfitting that a descendant of the gods should mingle in ordinary earthly affairs. The administration of the government was left to the Shogun. In theory the Mikado was still the source of all authority, but the Shogun wielded all power. The Mikado lived in Kyoto; the Sho- gun lived in Yedo. Sometimes the Shogun was dealt with as was the Mikado. All power was taken from him and was exercised by 54 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE his chief retainers. At such times the government was a triple one. But the Shogun was not a son of the gods, and could be dis- placed by a successful general of another clan. This happened several times. There grew up around the Shogunate a feudal sys- tem. The land was divided by the Shogun among his followers. By so doing he bound them to his house. The feudal barons gov- erned their own provinces. They assessed and collected taxes, made roads and bridges, promoted education, punished crime, enforced contracts. In Japan there was no such thing as law ema- nating from the capital. Below these feudal barons were the Samurai. They were the fighting class. Below these again were the farmers, artisans and merchants. Japan was “the land of the gods.” Other peoples were bar- barians, and the sacred soil must not be polluted with their pres- ence. This could not continue. China and California being opened to trade, Japan, lying between, must be opened also. There must be ports into which ships could go in a storm, and into which they could go for coal and provisions in time of need. The shipwrecked must be cared for. The opening of Japan became a necessity. Commodore Perry visited Japan in 1853. He bore a letter from President Fillmore to the Emperor. He had four ships in his squadron. Such a force had never been seen in Japanese waters. The officials wanted him to leave, but he would not till he had executed his commission. He was determined to exhaust every peaceful resource before resorting to coercive measures. A Japan- ese writer says that it was fortunate that Japan was not brought into contact with the world earlier than it was. Had it been, it might have fared as did Mexico and Peru. He regards Perry as one of the greatest friends of humanity the earth has seen. Unlike Cortes and Pizarro and Clive, he woke up a hermit nation without wounding its pride. The next year Perry returned for an answer to the President’s letter. The upshot of this expedition was that a treaty of peace and amity between the two nations was formed. Two ports were opened for trade; coal and provisions were to be furnished American ships when they needed them; the shipwrecked were to be cared for, and Consuls or agents of the United States were to be allowed to settle in Japan. The Empire being opened to our nation, it must open its gates to all. In dealing with the foreigners the right of the Shogun to make treaties was called in question. The conservatives gathered about the Mikado in Kyoto. The blame of admitting the hated foreigners and making treaties with them was laid at the Shogun’s door. Japan was awakening JAPAN 55 from the slumber of ages. A dual government was felt to be an anachronism. Feudalism was felt to be a thing of the past. Embassies were sent to Europe and America. They reported what they saw and heard. The Shogun was urged to resign. He did so, and the office was abolished. The feudal barons surrendered powers which they had held for centuries. The Mikado emerged from the seclusion in which he had lived, and took part in the affairs of the nation. To emphasize the change that had taken place, he removed his capital from Kyoto to Yedo, and changed the name of the city to Tokyo. The change could not stop with the termination of the Sho- gunate and the feudal system. If Japan was to preserve its inde- pendence, it must have a modern army and navy; it must have schools of all grades; it must have a postal system, the telegraph, railways; it must disestablish Buddhism and cease to persecute Christianity. All this has been done, and much more. Once all ships over fifty tons were burned. Only the junks remained. Japan has now as fine ships of war as any other nation. Her postal system is unexcelled. Nor is this all. Absolutism has granted a constitution. The Emperor has sworn to forego many of the powers claimed by his predecessors. This ruler, desiring to pro- mote the welfare of, and to give development to, the moral and intellectual faculties of his subjects, and hoping to maintain the prosperity of the state, gave the constitution. In this document it is said that no Japanese shall be arrested, detained, tried or pun- ished, unless according to law. The right of property of every Japanese subject shall remain inviolate. Except in special cases no house shall be entered or searched without the consent of the owner. The constitution is not perfect, but it is a great stride in advance. The Emperor exercises the legislative power with the consent of the Imperial Diet. He declares war, makes peace, and con- cludes treaties. He and his successors shall rule in an unbroken line for eternal ages. The suffrage is based on property and not on manhood. This disfranchises the bulk of the nation. But making all deductions and abatements, it must be conceded that a new day has dawned on Japan. And as revolutions never go backward we may feel sure that what has been accomplished is only an earnest of what is to come. IX. MY FIRST SUNDAY IN JAPAN. The morning was cool and bright. After breakfast and worship Mr. and Mrs. Guy took me to see the first Sunday-school. The hour of meeting was eight o’clock. The school met in one of the buildings used for the charity schools. The first piece sung was Knowles Shaw’s noble hymn, “Bringing in the Sheaves.” Imagine my feelings on listening to a hymn written by one of our own illus- trious men! It was like meeting an old friend in a strange land. In his youth, Knowles Shaw was wild and wayward. He went to balls, and played the fiddle while the others danced. This wild lad gave his heart to God. His was a thorough and genuine conver- sion. He preached and won thousands to the faith. His sweet songs have been naturalized in every land, and are sung round the globe. He died in the prime of life, but his work abides. The Scripture was read and prayer offered. Ivodaira San, Mrs. Guy’s Bible woman, taught the children. The lesson was “ Christ Send- ing Out the Twelve.” The children responded to the questions as promptly and as heartily as at home. This was my introduction to the work in Japan. Here, in a non-Christian land, children were being taught of God. My soul was deeply stirred. One little girl was pointed out by Mrs. Guy. Her father was a soldier and was killed in the war. Her mother was left with several children. Because of her poverty she feels that she must sell this child. God only knows all that that means. If she is sold, she will be doomed to a life of shame and sorrow. Such things are not uncommon in this land. But when a child that we have known and loved is thus sold, we feel differently. Mrs. Guy hopes to be able to take this girl into her own home, and bring her up in the nurture and admo- nition of the Lord. At nine o’clock we went to another school. The singing and the responses were as hearty here as at the other. The lesson was “ The Transfiguration of Christ.” Some of the children had faces as bright and as full of interest as one can see in the schools of America. They sang “Jesus Loves Me,” and “When He Com- eth,” as if they understood and believed them. Others were there 56 3. Mr. and Mrs. M. B. Madden. 1. Dr. Nina Stevens. 5. Dr. Verbeck. 4. C. E. Garst. TOKYO. JAPAN. 2. Miss VVirick. li. E. S. Stevens. MY FIRST S VXD AY IX JAP AX 57 for the first time. Their faces were blank and dull. They did not know what to expect. A few were suffering from some disease. Their heads wei’e covered with blotches and knobs. Evidently the sins of the fathers are being visited upon their children to the third and fourth generations. One of the workers testifies that he is sur- prised in finding how much Bible truth has been sown by the chil- dren taught in the Sunday-schools. They carry the essence and the aroma of the Gospel into homes that are closed to the Bible women. Parents say that their children tell every night what they have learned in the Bible. The mother of one of the smallest and most uninteresting girls told the missionary that she had heard about Christ from her little girl, and wanted to hear more. So the Scripture is fulfilled — “A little child shall lead them.” At half past ten there was a preaching service; Nishioka San spoke. He urged his hearers to bring forth fruits meet for repent- ance. He set forth what the Lord required of them as his redeemed children. After the sermon we had the communion. We sat together in heavenly places in Christ, and partook of the emblems of his broken body and shed blood. I trust we drank deeply into his spirit at the same time. The service was orderly and impressive. The audience gave earnest heed to the words that were spoken. Though I did not understand what was said, I felt, “Surely God is in this place. This is none other than the house of God, and this is the gate of heaven.” We were separated by race and by language, and by habits of thought and life, but we were one in Christ. For in one Spirit were we all baptized into one body, whether Japanese or American, and were all made to drink of one Spirit. I was asked to say a few words. Emai San inter- preted for me. After the benediction I was introduced to all present. I was assured over and over again that I was a welcome visitor. The people of Japan do not shake hands. The women do not kiss each other. They salute by bowing low and bowing repeatedly. Each strives to go lower than the other. In the evening we had a sermon from Emai San from the text, “Blessed are they that mourn : for they shall be comforted.” At this service a young man made the good confession and was bap- tized. The audience came forward to congratulate him. They did this by bowing low and speaking a few appropriate words. So the Gospel runs and is glorified. The good seed is sown at all hours, according to the Divine command : “In the morning sow thy seed, and in the evening withhold not thine hand; for thou canst not tell which will prosper, either this or that, or whether both will be 58 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE alike good.” Some may fall on rocky ground, or among thorns, or by the wayside, but some will surely fall on good ground aud bring forth fruit a hundred or a thousand fold. God’s word shall not return to him void, but shall accomplish that which he pleases, and prosper in the thing whereunto he has sent it. There is in the grounds of one of the temples in Japan a young tree growing out of a mammoth stump. One is alive aud vigorous; the other is dead, and must give place and feed the new life that has grown out of its heart. One must increase; the other must decrease. So it is with the Gospel in Japan. It must prosper and prevail, for it is alive and has in it the power of an endless life. At the close of each service the audience sat down and engaged in silent prayer for a few moments. This was better than if they had slapped each other on the back, or proceeded to light their cigars, or to talk about the baseball score, or any other irrelevent topic. There was no flirting- or writing of notes. The young men did not take the young ladies to church or escort them home. There is no courtship in Japan. Marriage is arranged for by middlemen, and not by the parties most deeply concerned. The young people get married, but they miss a deal of fun. The audience was a study. It was evident that some were with- out Christ. Their faces were hopelessly sad. How could these people be happy? Life with them is an incessant struggle after food and raiment. The catechism which they repeat every morning is this: “What shall I eat? What shall I drink? And where- withal shall I be clothed? ” There is nothing in their experience or in their horizon to fill them with hope and joy. Their worship in the temples does not elevate and spiritualize them. The priests are no better. There is as much animation in the face of a mummy as there is in theirs. They have blank, leathery faces. The faces of the Christians are very different. The face of Mrs. Guy’s teacher shines as the face of Moses did when he came down from the mountain. She has seen the glory of the Lord. She is busily engaged in his service and she has entered into his joy. The Gospel makes beautiful faces. So it is said, “ But we all, with unveiled face reflecting as a mirror the glory of the Lord, are transformed into the same image from glory to glory, even as from the Lord the Spirit.” The first convert in Japan has a handsome face. It is intelligent and spiritual. The same thing is seen at home. People come into the church, and their faces have no expression and no illumination. They look as if they were carved out of a turnip. After they are in harness for a season they are transfigured. Their MY FIRST SUNDAY IN JAPAN 59 faces look like porcelain that has a light within. In the church and on the street I have watched the faces of the people. The young ai’e pretty. This is especially true of the girls. They marry young and they age young. It is said that there is no word in Japanese for “old maid.” All of a marriageable age are married. Mothers do not wean their children till they are six or seven years old. Sometimes a woman nurses three children at the same time. Their vitality is sucked out of them. Small wonder that they fade early in life. As they grow older they lose the beauty of youth, and there is no other to take its place. One sees few handsome faces among the old in Japan. In Christian lands this is not the case. Nor is it the case here among the believers. As Christians advance in years they grow more handsome and more attractive. The hoary head when found in the way of righteousness has a glory and a beauty far surpassing anything that youth can show. As the outward man perishes, the inward man is renewed day by day. The oldest man I met in the Tokyo church has a fine face. He has been ennobled and glorified by the Gospel. Some of the women in the audience had black teeth. That signifies that they are married, and that they are not believers. It is not known how this abominable custom originated. Perhaps some jealous husbands compelled their wives to black their teeth, as in other lands they cut off their wives’ noses so that their neighbors would not fall in love with them. The present Empress and the missionaries use their influence against this practice. It is doomed to disappear. There were some Buddhist women present. The workers hope that they will yet be won to the faith. They are kept back by the ties that bind them to the graves of their kindred and by their associa- tions with the temples. They are a part of a great system, and it is not easy to prevail upon them to come out and take the conse- quences. Many have done this already, and many more will cer- tainly do so. As we went to church and as we returned we saw that there is no Sunday in Japan. That is an infallible proof that we are in a non-Christian land. The schools, banks, government offices, and some stores in the Foreign Concession are closed, but the people as a whole work away as usual. There is no difference on the streets or in the workshops and stores. In the temples one day is like another. The only difference is in the feast days. The people feel that they cannot afford to rest one day in seven. They think they would starve if they did. Oue of the serious pi’oblems the mission- 50 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE aries have to deal with grows out of the non-observance of the Lord's day. If a convert is employed by an unbeliever, his employer may, and often does, insist on having his service every day in the week. Should the servant lose his place he may lose his good name at the same time. The Japanese work not only every day in the week, but early and late as well. They think they could not live if they worked only ten hours a day. Merchants are at their place of business at three or four in the morning and remain there till nine or ten in the evening, or even later. The same is true, to a great extent, of mechanics. True, they do not work under our high pressure. Flesh and blood could not stand that. They are poor and they keep working constantly, hoping thereby to keep the wolf from the door. With all her industry Japan is a poor nation. She cannot compare with the nations that observe the Lord’s day, and that labor ten hours or less a day. “ It is vain to rise up eai'ly and sit up late, and to eat the bread of sorrows, for so he giveth his beloved sleep.” On Sunday night the streets were unusually full of people, and the merchants were selling more goods than in the day. The explanation given was that women of the middle class, not having servants, were ashamed to be seen buying and carrying home their purchases by day. They wait till it is dark, and then go out and buy what they need and carry it home. The cholera officers swarm everywhere. Already 17,000 have fallen victims of this disease this year. In Tokyo one hundred die a day. The people are poor and half starved. They have no strength to withstand the plague. If they had robust constitutions and superabounding vitality, the rate of mortality would be very much lower. The lack of proper sanitary conditions has con- tributed to the ravages of the cholera. In some respects the Jap- anese are the cleanest people in the world; in other respects they are far from this. They bathe themselves several times a day. They wash and scour their houses continually. They think Ameri- cans and Europeans extremely filthy. But an American city is far cleaner and far [more wholesome than a Japanese. A city with few or no sewers can not be clean. The stenches in certain parts of Japanese hotels and homes are insufferable. Where all the filth and offal are kept rotting under the same roof as that which covers the family and the guests, the place can not be healthy. It is not strange that the Japanese fall beneath this pestilence as grass before the reaper. It would be strange indeed if they did not. That night several thoughts were suggested by the experiences of the day. As in the first Christian century, so now the wise and MY FIRST SUNDAY IN JAPAN 61 noble and great, as a class, stand aloof. They were not in the Sun- day-school nor in the church. They glory in their wisdom and power and station. They feel that they are rich and need nothing. A few of the highest class have been won to the faith. Among these are the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, several judges of the Court of Appeals, a Cabinet Minister, the Vice-President of the Lower House and several members of the same. But now, as then, God chooses the things that are not to bring to naught the things that are, that no flesh should glory in his presence. The things that are hid from the wise and prudent are revealed unto babes. “ Even so, Father, for so it seemed good in thy sight.” It is easy to see why our Lord likened the kingdom of God to a child. It is the humble and teachable spirit that enters therein. , Man and beast need one day in seven for rest. They do more and live longer in consequence. Man needs bread, but he does not live by bread alone. He has a stomach to feed and a back to clothe, but he is a soul. We need time for thought and memory and hope. We cannot be profitably engaged from youth to old age iu “the tug for wealth and power, the vain low strife that makes men mad and wastes their little hour.” We are made in the image of God and capable of entertaining thoughts that wander through eternity. Who can tell how much the Lord’s day has been worth to Scotland, to England and to America? Who can tell how much it has been worth to himself? We need to be admonished frequently, for we forget so soon. “This is the day the Lord has made; we will rejoice and be glad in it.” “Thou art a port protected From storms that round us rise ; A garden intersected With streams of Paradise.” Japan has taken long strides in the right direction, but Japan is yet very far from being a Christian nation. Some thought at one time that by the close of the present century the work of the mis- sionaries would be done. Some expected that Christianity would be adopted as the national religion. This expectation is not likely to be realized. Government offices and banks and schools may be closed on Sunday by an imperial edict or by an Act of Parliament, but not thus can the heart of the nation be touched and renewed. The presence and services of the missionaries will long be needed. While Japan is not yet Christian, there are forces at work that are destined to effect this great change. In the Roman Empire there were numerous groups of believers. The statesmen of that day did D2 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE not think them worthy of notice. If a historian spoke of them it was with a sneer. Christianity was to the wise of that time “ a detestable superstition.” But from these little groups of believers influences went forth that changed customs, literature, laws, wor- ship, life and everything. So shall it be in Japan. As we bowed that night around the family altar we thought of our Lord’s words, “I beheld Satan as lightning fall from heaven.” The victory was prospective, but it was as certain as if it had been an accomplished fact. “Jesus shall reign ■where’er the sun Does his successive journeys run, His kingdom spread from shore to shore Till moons shall wax and wane no more.” X. A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN. In order that I might see Japan to the greatest advantage and in the shortest time practicable, it was thought by the missionaries that it would be well for me to visit the churches in the north of the Empire first; after that, see the work in Tokyo and Yokohama; and after that again, see the leading cities of the South, namely, Kobe, Osaka, Kyoto and Nagasaki. The first thing to do was to secure a passport. This can now be had for the asking. No one can travel in Japan or live outside the- Foreign Concessions without a passport. There is a reason for this. If a foreigner should com- mit any crime, he cannot be tried in a Japanese court. If a native has a claim against a foreigner the same is true. He can be tried only before the Consul of the nation to which he belongs. The Japanese Government can not try him in its own courts for violat- ing its laws, but it can recall his passport, and thereby compel him to live in the Foreign Concession or leave the country. Every for- eigner in Japan is located. He is constantly under police surveil- lance. Before you are in a hotel five minutes a policeman calls and asks to see your passport. The proprietor of the hotel records your name and number. So before you can buy a railroad ticket you must produce your passport and thus convince the agent that you have the Emperor’s consent to travel within his domain. A child in arms, no less than his parents, must have a passport in order to go anywhere. When the new treaties go into effect in 1899, this nui- sance will be abated. Then foreigners can go and come at will. Then, too, Consular courts will be abolished, and foreigners and natives must appear before the same tribunals and answer for any charges preferred against them. Ten years ago it was a difficult matter to get a passport. It took weeks and months and no small amount of pressure to secure this document from reluctant officials. Now it can be had in a few minutes and without any charge or any condition. It was arranged that Mr. and Mrs. Guy should act as my escorts part of the way. They are most agreeable traveling companions. The baby went along and added immensely to our joy. A little 63 64 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE child makes the whole world kin. Dignified judges and lawmakers unbent and noticed us because of the pretty boy. When you are in a strange land and do not understand a word of the language, and the people do not understand a word of what you say, jmu are in a helpless and pitiable condition. At such a time you find it hard to entertain a very high opinion of those men whose misconduct in building the Tower of Babel caused the confusion of tongues. I have not been left for an instant without an interpreter, and so have gotten along smoothly enough. Had I been left without a guardian I should have fared differently. Our first stop was at Nikko. Here I had my first experience in a Japanese hotel. The proprietor and his wife and chief clerk and all the servants in sight bowed their heads to the earth as we approached. They assured us that we did well in coming. After removing our shoes we were shown to our rooms. There was neither chair nor table in sight. The only furniture in the room was a recess with a scroll hanging in it. Some mats were brought in and we were asked to sit down. I tried to sit on my feet, but it was not a brilliant success. Either my feet are too large, or my backbone is too long, or my joints are not constructed properly. Perhaps if my ancestors had been accus- tomed to sit on their feet for “ ages eternal,” to borrow a Japanese phrase, I could do it as easily and as gracefully as the natives, but with all my efforts and good intentions, I must confess that I can not. My guardian apologizes for me when guests are in the room. The first thing brought in is a tray containing a little fire and a spit- toon. Smoking is universal in Japan. The priests in the temple and the teachers in the schools and the people in the theaters smoke. The pipe holds only a pinch of tobacco. Four or five puffs exhaust it. The cost of smoking on this scale is not more than two cents a week. They could not smoke as Americans do on their incomes. The next thing brought in is another tra}r contain- ing tea and sweets. The cups hold a tablespoonful. The tea is served without cream or sugar. In a Japanese hotel there is no dining-room where all the guests eat. You eat in your own room. The bill of fare is different from that served in American hotels. It has no bread, no butter, no cheese, no potatoes, seldom any meat, no tea or coffee, no pepper or salt. Rice is the main dish, and is cooked and served without seasoning. Besides rice, you have fish, soup, eggs in some form, and vegetables, either fresh or pickled. These last are intended to be relishes. Each guest has his own food on a lacquered tray. This tray is placed before you on the floor. You find no knife or fork or spoon; chopsticks answer all MRS. GARST AND SCHOOL, TOKYO, JAPAN, A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 65 purposes. It is astonishing to see how deftly a native can dispose of any dish with chopsticks. I tried mine. I got them by the wrong end, and could not make them lift anything. When I got a piece of food so that I could move it I could not find my mouth. The little maid, with all her inborn and inbred politeness, could not help laughing outright. In her own mind she set me down as a full-fledged barbarian. The food is clean and palatable and digesti- ble. You look about for a washstand and find none. Y ou are expected to carry your own soap and towel and to go to the public wash-room whenever it suits your convenience. Travelers carry their own pillows, sheets, mosquito bar, and insect powder. The hotel supplies the floor and some rugs. The mats and thatched roofs of Japanese houses afford fleas a superb refuge. If you wish to sleep in peace you must protect yourself. With all this protec- tion a bed on the floor is not quite to the taste of a pampered American who has been accustomed to a mattress with springs under it. The bath is a curiosity. The water is kept at a point near boiling. One water lasts the whole day. The family and the guests are expected to use it. Some fastidious persons object to this feature of a Japanese bath. Knowing that we were likely to have some scruples on this point, the clerk came to us and told us that the bath was ready. We asked him if it had been used since it was filled. He said that it had not. He added that a Korean had been in it, but a little thing like that did not count with him. Before lying down to sleep you try to lock your room. You can not lock it. Three sides are screens and can be lifted out bodily. The screens are made of paper. There is no door with hinges that you can lock. A burglar or a rat could walk in any hour of the day or night. You put your valuables inside your fly- net and sleep the sleep of the weary. The people about the hotel are all politeness. They bow when we go out, and assure us that we shall be welcome when we return. We come back, and they bow again and thank us for our kindness. Fancy an American hotel clerk bumping the floor with the top of his head whenever a guest went out or came in ! When we left, each one received a present and a letter of recommendation to other hotels. For our food and lodging we paid sixty cents a day. In other hotels in the interior we paid twenty-five cents. Aside from this difference in price, one hotel is like another hotel. All have the same bill of fare. The Japanese have a proverb to the effect that no one ought to use the word “ magnificent ” till he has seen Nikko. Chamberlain says of this place that it has a double glory — a glory of nature and a 5 66 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE glory of art. “Mountains, cascades, and monumental forest trees, liad always stood there.” Japanese artists have produced there the most perfect assemblage of shrines in the whole land. One of the greatest of the Shoguns, the founder of a dynasty that swayed the destinies of Japan for two hundred and fifty years, lies buried above the temples. His gi’andson, a man almost equally renowned in Japanese history, is also buried there. Their family and fi’iends spared neither pains nor money to make the grounds and buildings near their tombs as magnificent as possible. The temples are square wooden buildings. Externally there is nothing striking or beautiful about them. They do not compare in either size or grandeur with the cathedrals of Europe. They were not built to accommodate great audiences. Men and women go to Nikko to worship, but not in our sense or according to our method. They pray for a few seconds in one place, and then hasten on to another place, and so continue till they have made the rounds of every temple and pagoda and shrine within the inclosure. People do not visit this place to hear words of instruction or admonition from the lips of some elo- quent preacher. For this reason no vast auditorium is needed. The glory and the beauty of these buildings are seen within. In the Buddhist temples there are numerous idols. You may see the Buddha in pure gold, and the Goddess of Mercy, and Fudo, and many others. On the walls and on the ceilings are the works of the most famous Japanese artists. They have carved lions, tigers, dragons, cats, flowers and trees of almost every kind, birds and sages. In one group there are three monkeys. One has his hands on his eyes, another on his ears, another on his mouth. The lesson is that a good man should have neither eyes nor ears nor mouth for evil things. In one shrine we saw the sacred horse. One of the gods of the place rides on him when he goes out. We inquired as to his pedigree and age and record and value, but could get no answers. He is selected because he has four white feet. More magnificent than the temples and the grounds are the trees in and about Nikko. There is an avenue of white cedars which extends for twenty miles toward Tokyo. Along this avenue the mighty Sho- guns were borne by their retainers when they went to Nikko to worship the gods and to make offerings to the spirits of their ances- tors. There are tens of thousands of those noble trees about the grounds. They lift their massive trunks a hundred feet or more into the air. It is a most glorious vision. We stayed there a day longer than we expected because we heard that some friends were on their way to Nikko to see us. A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 67 Our next stop was at Hanobuchi. The Garst family were spending a few weeks there. Miss Alice Miller and W. K. Azbill were visiting them. We had a warm welcome. The house in which we ate and slept and talked cost only sixty dollars, but we were as comfortable and as joyful as if we had been in a palace. Several missionaries from Sendai and the region round about were spending their vacation at this place. They asked me to speak to them on Sunday afternoon. After the service we walked over to a Shinto temple and some shrines in a grove about a mile distant. This temple is said to be two hundred and fifty years old. In one small shrine there is a wooden horse. His worshipers have thrown in beside him about fifty pairs of straw shoes. The rice placed in bis manger supplies the mice and rats with food. On the way borne we walked through the village. The people are fishermen and farmers. The children ran about the streets naked. The men and women wore scant clothing. The dogs barked at us as if we were intruders. On our return we canvassed the situation. It was agreed that Mr. and Mrs. Garst should go with me to Akita and the adjacent towns. They had lived in the North, and knew the people and the roads. Monday morning we were off. That night we reached the point where we were to leave the railroad. On reaching our hotel a policeman called to inspect our passports. He had hardly gone when the hotel clerk came in and asked permission to record the same. He spent twenty minutes examining the outside of the envelopes. Not finding what he wanted, he touched the floor with the top of his head, and asked if he might examine the contents of the envelopes. He asked our ages and caste. He was told that we belonged to the heavenly caste. After an hour or so he took his leave. About midnight he was back again. He begged to see our passports once more. The names of the Garst children were on both passports, and the children were not present. That fact must be reported to the authorities in Tokyo. The next moiming we were in our jinrickshas at six. We reached our destination a little after midnight. We made fifty miles that day. We had two men each, and changed men eight times. Most of the day we were climbing the mountains. The scenery is as fine as can be found in West Virginia. The roads are well made. The bridges are narrow and slight. No heavy loads pass over them. At one town on the way we met two believers, and had a service with them in the hotel. One is a trav- eling merchant. They were urged to be ready for every good work. 68 A CIRCUIT OF TEE GLOBE Opportunities are constantly presenting themselves; they were taught to be prepared to make the most of them. The day was the Shinto “All Saints’ Day.” It was the day for making offerings at the graves of their ancestors and for feasting and for attending the temples. Such a day usually ends with a general spree. For this reason we found it difficult toward evening to get men. By patient and persistent effort we succeeded. We reached our hotel a little weary, but thankful that no evil had befallen us, and that this was the point for which we started. On Wednesday we left Yuzawa for Innai, a town twenty miles distant. We visited the public school of this place. One of the Akita Christians teaches here. When she was studying the claims of Christianity, she sat up late on winter nights without any fire. Her father asked her why she did so. She said she would go to sleep if she was warm. As long as she was cold she would keep awake. There are seven teachers and four hundred pupils in this school. As long as we were in sight the children yelled with all their might. Probably we were the first Caucasians they had seen. Our visit was an event in their lives. We were introduced to the principal and to several of his assistants. He smoked his pipe and drank his tea, and paid very little attention to us. He bowed very slightly when we entered and when we left. He feels as large as the Mikado. Perhaps he is. Innai is a mining town. Kudo San is the evangelist. Besides preaching, he has a school of seventy scholars. The audience at this point was made up mostly of young men. They were really fine-looking fellows. The address was based on the words, “I have written unto you, young men, because ye are strong, and the word of God abideth in you; and ye have overcome the evil one.” In the midst of a rough population these young men live so that their lives commend the Gospel to the people. As one result, the community is becoming more favorable to Christianity. As another result, believei’s are being added to the Loi’d. We ai’e told that the church is made up of young men, because the young are more easily won than the old. It is made up mostly of men, because no Bible woman has been here to work among the women. After the service we returned to Yuzawa and had a second service there. The teacher whom we saw in the moniing came back with us. She traveled forty miles that she might join in the sei’vice. Thei’e are two or three believers in this place. They meet to break bread. Yuzawa is a dark place. The believers were exhoi-ted to let their light shine. The next morning we were on the road before suni’ise. We wanted to make fifty miles, but fell short five. It A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 69 was election day, and the politicians were about. Many of the men were still drunk, and we could not go as far as we wished. On Friday we went to Arakawa. The church in this place has quite a history. A Christian from Akita went there to work in the mines. By his zeal and devotion he led another to Christ. These two won others. They built a little chapel. The owner of the mine is a zealous idolater. He is a plutocrat and owns the place. They were obliged to build outside the gate. The most zealous of these men was dismissed on account of his preaching. He was gone a year, but is now back again. AATe had a service here. The address was based on the words, “ Be thou faithful unto death, and I will give thee a crown of life.” That evening we left for Akita, I’eaching it about nine o’clock. On Saturday morning we visited the school and spoke a few words to them. In the afternoon we went down to the seaport of Akita and spoke in the chapel. The audience was large. Noto San is the evangelist. He is a baker and lives near by. On the way home we visited the cemetery whei’e Mrs. Josephine AY. Smith is buried, and scattered some flowers on her grave. This saintly woman was born in Nova Scotia, and died here. In her life of purity and devotion we see the best imitation of the Christ. In her case “Love took up the harp of life And smote the cords with might ; Smote the cord of self that, trembling, Passed in music out of sight.” At night the church gave us a reception. The next morning we went to Sunday-school. Afterwards we had a preaching service. The sermon was suggested by the text, “Be perfected; be comforted; be of the same mind; live in peace: and the God of love and peace shall be with you.” There was a meeting for women in the afternoon, led by Mrs. Garst. In the evening Mr. Garst preached. At both services I spoke briefly. AATe had a good day. Akita is the place in which our work in Japan began. Here the first church was organized. Here the children built the Josephine AV. Smith Memorial Chapel. From this point the work branched out into other centers. Monday morning we took our leave of Akita and started for Honjo. Our road was between the mountains and the Sea of Japan. The country is poor; the people are chiefly fishermen. Part of the day we rode in an omnibus. The horse was emaciated. A boy went along to hold his head steady and to help him up hill. AYe walked most of the way. This outfit is inspected and approved 70 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE by the government every month. We were over four hours making twelve miles. We saw this horse fed. His dinner consisted of dirty water tinctured with meal. The owner does not know that a horse cannot thrive on a cold bath and on such thin gruel. If this company could see a horse at his best estate, and know what he is in strength, in speed, and in beauty, they would not send out such animals as they now have to distress their patrons. In Honjo, Tashiro San is in charge of the work. He is a man of good repute, and deservedly so. The church here has had some trouble. An evil-minded man sought to get possession of the property. He was defeated in the courts, but the fact that a suit was brought dam- aged the work. The believers were urged to hold fast the begin- ning of their confidence unto the end. We were assured that a better day is dawning. It took us a day and a half to reach Shonai. Here we had a service in the chapel. Here the Garst family spent four happy years. Their former friends were delighted to see them. The work at this point received a great impetus from the conversion of a drunkard. The people said that a religion that could work such a change must be true. It took us two days more to reach Sendai, and one day more to reach Tokyo. On this long trip into the country we got a better knowledge of Japanese life than we could have gotten had we stayed in the large cities. In the cities the people are adopting foreign ways. They dress and live in many respects as Americans and Europeans. Where we were they live very much as they did before the advent of Commodore Perry and the entrance of foreign ideas. We were able to get a more accurate view of mission work as a whole than we could have gotten otherwise. We saw many proofs of the fact that the leaven of the Gospel is at work. Ten years ago the hotels would not entertain a missionary. They pretended that they xvere full. Now they are anxious for his patronage. A priest in a remote village told one of our men that his temple and its services were a part of the Jehovah worship. An old man in the same place was asked if there was any prospect that the people would soon give up the worship of the Fox-god. He said: “If you will come and preach a few sermons, I think they will.” The Bible is read in all parts of the Empire. The people are glad to get a copy. At nearly every place we visited we heard of some who are inquir- ing about Christianity. We met and talked with several of this class. We learned of some baptisms at different points. The Japanese move from place to place a great deal. Many of them exemplify the Gospel in their own lives and press its claims upon. A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 71 their associates. Beyond question the truth is spreading. The picture is not all bright. We heard of some who have gone back. Iniquity abounds, and it is not strange that the love of some grows cold. Nothing saddens the heart of a missionary like the apostasy of his own children in the faith. This trial is not peculiar to Japan. In the farming districts the people do not live on their farms, but are grouped in villages. They go out to their work in the morning, and return to their homes in the evening. As rice is the main crop, and as rice grows in water, perhaps this arrangement is a necessary one. One of the hindrances to the spread of the Gos- pel among the farmers grows out of this fact. The village is a unit. There is almost no individuality among the people. If a man does not join in the worship in the temple and in the grave- yard, and participate in the feasts, he is in danger of being boy- cotted. If each man lived on his own farm, he would be more independent. This is one reason why so few farmers have been won to the faith. In the cities it is different. There one’s circle of acquaintances is small. There even neighbors know very little and care almost nothing about each other. Nevertheless, among the farmers there are some who have heard and believed and have been baptized. One of our evangelists is at work among this class. He is a man of uncommon earnestness. Once he was dissipated. After his conversion he resolved that he would serve the Lord with as much zeal and fidelity as he had served the devil. He is a burn- ing and shining light. His field is a large one. His reports are encouraging. Under the preaching of the Gospel these farming communities will be reached as a whole. Then they will abandon idolatry, and accept Christianity in a body. We saw and heard something of the poverty of the people. Miners earn not more than fifty dollars a year. This is not a large sum if one has a family to support. Thousands of skilled laborers earn no more than this. Rice is cheap, to be sure, and many have little else. The money used shows the same thing. There are coins representing a tenth of a cent. In the hotels and temples and elsewhere we saw great quantities of copper. It would seem as if most of the business was done with this kind of currency. In Cali- fornia at one time the smallest coin in use was a quarter of a dollar. Money was abundant. The community was prosperous. The houses, as a rule, are small and cheap. They did not cost more than two hundred dollars on an average. Many of them did not cost a third of that sum. In some large towns most of the shingles 72 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE on the roofs are held in place by cobble-stones. The roofs are paved and resemble streets. One man said to us that in time of Hood these stones held the house on its foundation; but in an earthquake they were a source of peril to the family. We called to see one family. We found three old people living in a shed five feet wide and eight feet long. How they live at all is a mystery. Thousands must lie down hungry every night. In Akita we saw a class of people that interested us exceedingly. They were once called Eta. The word signifies non-human. They were supposed to be below the level of humanity. They were said to be the descendants of Korean prisoners. They made their living by digging the graves of criminals, and by killing and skinning cat- tle. In 1871 there were nearly 300,000 Eta in the Empire. Then they were raised to the rank of human beings by an imperial edict. Their political disabilities were removed, but they are still socially ostracised. Men are not restored to their original position in this way. At the time of the Revolution there were about a million out- casts in Japan. For these Christ died, and to them the Gospel of his grace comes with its offer of peace and joy and eternal life. The land is full of idols and superstition. In the treaty ports the people have lost faith in the old religions, and have not yet accepted the Gospel. This is true especially of the student class. But in the interior this is not the case. The present condition of Japan reminds one of the times in Israel, when on every high place and under every green tree there were idols of some kind. We saw temples and shrines and images of the Buddha, and sacred tablets everywhere. The Fox-god seems to be exceedingly popular. We met some women going to a distant temple. We learned that they felt that they would not be human beings at all if they did not make a pilgrimage to this place. We met a man carrying a shrine on his back. The people could make offerings without leaving their homes or their work. He would recite a prayer for a money con- sideration. One man carried about a lion’s head to eat up the cholera germs. He would save any family if they would pay his price. In the temple we found some eating rice and drinking sake and gossiping. Others were beating drums and repeating prayers. There is much yet to be done. Those who have no faith and those whose faith is erroneous must be guided into all truth. The Japanese eat little animal food; in former days they ate almost none. This abstinence is one of the fruits of Buddhism. The founder of this system used to sweep the ground before he sat down lest he should kill or injure some living creature. He taught A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 73 his followers that it was wrong to take life to supply man’s need. Fish was allowed for the hardness of man’s heart only. In the tour through the country, extending over ten days, we saw many horses, only two or three cows, a few chickens, but no pig and no sheep. In one place we inquired for beef, and were told that we could not have any for two days. That was in a town of ten thousand peo- ple. In another place we tried to get a chicken, but failed. Until recently, chickens were kept as time-keepers. Their crowing announced the dawn. The only sheep and pigs I have seen in Japan are in the zoological gardens in Tokyo. Living apart so long the Japanese know nothing of the progress made by other nations. They do not use animals and wind and water and steam and electricity to bear their burdens and to do their work. They have horses now, but they are not used exten- sively. Away from the railways the mail is carried in a hand-cart or on a man’s shoulder. Charcoal, rice, sand, stone, timber, and almost everything else is transported in the same way. It is not an uncommon thing to see two men or a man and his wife hauling a load of some kind. We met a man and a woman hauling stone. The woman pulled with a breast-strap and carried her infant on her back. We saw men and women carrying fire-wood, and hay and vegetables. We traveled three hundred and fifty miles in wagons propelled by human strength. The men sweat as if they were in a furnace. All the while one feels disposed to get out and walk. This is a painful method of travel. Cheap as coolie labor is, one can ride on the best railway in the world for a third of what it costs to ride in these little wagons. The worry is considerable. You reach a place and are told that there are no men. You are asked if you are in a * hurry, and if you wish one man or two. If you are in a hurry, you will be told that if you are willing to pay for two men you can get one. If men are present they must have time to think whether they will go on to-day or wait till to-morrow. One would think that they would be glad to go at once. But these men are never in a hurry. Haste is undignified. At every turn you must pay extra. The foreigner is rich and can be “ squeezed.” Give one man a tip and you must give every man a tip. The news will be passed all along the line. It would seem that these men would be ambitious to make a reputation for promptness and efficiency. What do they care for reputation! They have lived from hand to mouth all their days. Years of oppression have taken all heart and all hope out of them. Several times Mr. Garst told them that a traveler from across the seas was present, and that they owed it to Japan to con- 74 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE tribute to his progress and comfort, so that he might get a favor- able impression of the country. Strange to say, this appeal to their pride succeeded when everything else failed. Sometimes we had to resort to the police. They wear the chrysanthemum, the badge of the Emperor, and their word is law. We felt relieved when we reached the railroad, and realized that the “squeezing” was over. There were many pleasant things about this trip. The believers came out to meet us, and to see us off. They were glad we came, and assured us that our visit would do good, and that their prayers and good wishes would follow us all our days. My companions left nothing undone that could add to my comfort. C. E. Garst, by his knowledge of the people and their language, by his unfailing good humor and patience, helped me much. On a long journey like this one, a woman that can speak and pray and sing and interpret and cook and make the best of everything, is a treasure indeed. One thing tried me. I have sat on my feet and looked happy when suf- fering torture; I have eaten soup with chopsticks; I have parboiled myself in hot baths; I have touched the ground with the top of my head a hundred times in a day; but nothing has tried me so much as speaking while sitting on the floor, and through an interpreter. It is as natural for a man to stand up when he has anything to say, as it is for him to sit down when he is through. The human organism is a galvanic battery, and the mind works best when it has two ground connections. The audiences were so attentive that speak- ing in any posture was not so difficult as otherwise it would have been. We reached Tokyo late Saturday night in good health and in good spirits, and thankful that we had been permitted to make this trip. XI. A WEEK IN TOKYO. On the Sunday after returning to Tokyo from the trip in the north, I worshiped in three places. In the early morning I visited the chapel in which J. M. McCaleb preaches, and spoke briefly. He has a neat and convenient place of worship, and is doing a good work. There was a feast in that part of the city at the time. Lanterns and banners were hung out in front of almost every house. The streets were full of people. The boys were as noisy as at home on a national holiday. The people within were revei’ent and attentive. Each had a Bible and followed the leader when he read or referred to passages. After an hour spent there we went to the chapel in charge of H. H. Guy. This is the building that Miss Wirick erected with money saved out of a modest salary. Here I spoke on the new life in Christ. One of the evangelists interpreted for me. In the evening I went to the chapel in charge of E. S. Stevens. In nearly every ward of this great city the Gospel is preached every week. The buildings, as a rule, are neither large nor costly. They do not begin to compare in these respects with the temples. But in them the message of salvation is proclaimed, and therefore they are worth more to the Japanese than all their Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. One is a savor of life unto life; the other is a savor of death unto death. Strange feelings come over one while sitting in one of these chapels in this great city. Outside the people are engaged in their secular occupations. The majority do not know and do not care to inquire concerning the new faith. But Jesus Chi’ist is destined to reign over Tokyo, and over Japan. The institutions of this Empire shall be tilled with his spirit, and the people shall serve him. The next day we called to see Miss Rioch’s work. She has charge of the Girls’ Home. There are nine girls under her care. They are being educated to serve as Bible women. Should they not devote their lives to this work, they will become Christian wives and mothers. Some of these girls are from Christian homes, and some are not. They themselves are all Christians, most of them having turned to the Lord since they entered the Home. For their 75 16 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE secular education they go to the government schools. In the Home they are under Christian influence and receive Biblical instruction. At present they are studying the Life of Christ. They do all their own work, the matron overseeing and giving instruction when nec- essary. They learn to cook, sew, wash, nurse the sick, and many other things. In this way they are prepared to become good house- keepers, and while serving as Bible women they will be prepared to turn their hands to almost anything. They dress and live in Japanese style. No attempt is made to denationalize them. They are Christians, but not American Christians. Their field of work is here, and it is for it they are prepared. In her work Miss Rioch is aided by Mrs. Gai’st, Miss Johnson, and Messrs. Guy and Stevens. Each one teaches an hour a week. The course of study at present is the Old Testament in Outline, the Life of Christ, Geography, Church History, and Methods of Work. Under the last head the girls are taught how to approach the people, and how to answer their objections to the Christian religion. All the more advanced girls teach classes in the Sunday-schools. Thus every day in their school life they are influencing those around them for good, and when they can they tell them of the Savior who died for them. When the new building is completed, this work will be enlarged. On Tuesday morning we visited, by request of W. K. Azbill, one of the famous schools for girls in Japan. At his suggestion the President and Faculty invited me to deliver an address before the whole school. President Iwamoto is a man of ability, culture, position and moral worth. He is justly regarded as one of the fore- most teachers in the Empire. He is not only a teacher, but a preacher, and an editor as well. His school is one of the best of its kind in Japan. It is a Christian school of high grade. The President is an earnest advocate of self-support in all such institu- tions. He could easily get foreign aid in case he was willing to place the school under foreign control. This he is not willing to do. The teachers work for very small pay. If any can donate their services they cheerfully do so. W. K. Azbill, Miss Alice Miller and K. Ishikawa are on the staff of teachers. We had a very pleasant visit with the President and his accomplished wife. She has trans- lated some of the works of Charles Dickens into Japanese, and has done much other literary work. She conducts a department in the Japanese Evangelist. Professor Azbill took us through the build- ings and over the grounds. He showed us the rooms in which he lives, and the chapel in which he and his associate preach every A WEEK IX TOKYO 77 Sunday. He took us to the lot which he has purchased, and upon which he hopes to build a chapel in the near future. On the way back we called to see Dr. D. C. Green of the Ameri- can Board. He has been in Japan since 1869. He was here three years before the first Protestant church was organized in Yokohama, and four years before the edicts prohibiting Christianity were taken down. He has a great story to tell, and the heart beats faster while listening to him. He spoke of some of the changes that had taken place since his arrival. Those who visit Japan now can have no adequate conception of the greatness of these changes. The nation and its institutions are essentially different from what they were at that time. He spoke of the triumph of the Gospel in Japan. He confessed that the enthusiasm of a few years ago has abated. The outlook for the immediate Christianization of Japan is not as bright as it was then. But this, in his opinion, is only a temporary lull. The great movement has slackened; it has not ceased. Dr. Green accounted for the present condition by saying that it is owing partly, if not mainly, to the readjustments which have followed the general acceptance of the theory of evolution. Many men who would otherwise be leaders of evangelistic effort, are giving themselves to the solution of the new problems in theology. Some are at sea in respect to doctrine. They are in doubt, and a doubtful mood is not a victorious mood. He referred also to the intense nationalistic spirit as hindering the progress of the Gospel. This spirit mani- fests itself in Russia, in Germany, in Australia, and Japan. It is different in different countries, but in every case it emphasizes the national as against the universal. Chxfistianity being a foreign religion has suffered in common with everything else that is for- eign. As to the future, Dr. Green has no doubt. Year by year substantial gains are being made. There are many indubitable proofs that the worst is past, and that a better day is dawning. In the afternoon we visited the Imperial University. Dr. Yoshida volunteered to be our guide. He is one of the teachers in the Nobles’ School, and does some work in the University. In 1856 a place was opened for the Examination of the Barbarian Writings. This was the germ of the present University, with its Colleges of Law, Medicine, Engineering, Literature, Science and Agriculture. The staff of professors is quite large. The lectures are in various languages. The Medical College is manned by Germans. Several of the professors are men of world-wide renown. Gradually the foreigners are giving place to Japanese. The Government sends a number of the most promising young men to America and Europe, 78 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE and supports them while prosecuting their studies under the ablest specialists. There are in all departments 1,300 students. This is now the greatest school in the East. The Japanese are determined that it shall not be surpassed by any school in the world. One of the interesting pieces of apparatus shown us was that for register- ing earthquakes. As there are about five hundred earthquakes a 3’ear in Japan, it will be seen that this instrument has much to do. It records the motions of the earth in all directions, and the dura- tion of the same. Dr. Yoshida showed us a piece of wire bent so as to represent the movements of the earth in a severe shock. It was bent in all directions. Seeing this, one can readily believe the reports of the destruction caused by earthquakes. The scientific men are making experiments from which they expect good results. For example, they are building houses that will best withstand the shock of earthquakes. They are sinking a well 3,000 feet deep. They hope to learn something from this. In the evening the Japa- nese Christians gave me a reception. Several addresses of welcome were made. They charged me to assure the churches in America of their gratitude for what they have done for them. One man came three hundred miles to the reception. He is a country evangelist. He is not a great scholar, but he has apostolic faith and zeal, and is doing a good work. The next day we visited the Presbyterian College, and saw the President and several of the professors and some of the work. The buildings are spacious and suitable. In the Theological Department there are lift}' students; in the Literary Department about the same number. There is no lack of schools in Tokyo. Nearly every society has felt that it must train its own workers and must educate the young people connected with the churches. There are schools representing every variety of doctrine. In one of these, so it is said, there are no text-books, only lectures and essays; the faculty is composed of Christians, Buddhists, Shintoists and Con- fucianists. All have the same object in view — search for truth wherever it may be found. The men connected with this school do not build churches, impose creeds, nor pay salaries to preachers, nor import foreign organizations, nor reproduce foreign cults. They wait for and help along native effort, which is honestly directed toward gaining the highest truth and securing the best life in relig- ion and morals. It is a poor way to search for truth to overlook Him who said, “ I am the way, the truth, and the life.” Most of Thursday was devoted to a conference with the mission- aries. We had accounts from all as to the present condition of the A WEEK IN TOKYO 79 work and the outlook. The work in the schools and the meetings for women and the work in the several chapels were reported. Plans for enlarging the work were discussed. The need of a school in which evangelists shall be trained was emphasized. The general feeling is that no college for literary or scientific training is needed, because the Japanese schools are excellent, and this work can be done in them more economically. In answer to a petition from the believers in Akita for a missionary family Mr. and Dr. Stevens volunteered to go to the North. They will be more than three hundred miles from Tokyo, and far removed from any Americans, but they go joyfully because they feel that the Lord’s work there requires their presence and service. That day we visited the Imperial Museum near by and saw many things relating to Japanese antiquities, art, manufactures, mineral and agricultural resources. We had a bird’s-eye view of Japan. In the park we saw the tree General Grant planted and some of the camels captured at Port Arthur. The following day was devoted to a conference in the home of Miss Scott and Miss Hostetter. All the workers in Tokyo repre- senting the Disciples of Christ were present. Mr. and Mrs. Madden reached the city the night before, and were on hand to be intro- duced to the workers and the work. After a brief address by Pres- ident Guy, E. S. Stevens read a paper on “Entering upon the Work.” He dwelt upon the need of a holy life, and enlarged upon some missionary methods. It was a thoughtful paper. The dis- cussion was lively and profitable. Prof. Azbill called attention to the use of such phi’ases as “Our Church,” “Our Plea,” and “Our Position.” He prefers to speak of Christ’s position, and plea, and church. Miss Scott read a paper on “Charity School Work.” She gave an account of her own school, as she knows that better than any other. Her school is in one of the poorest quarters of the city. Here are lepers and people with other terrible diseases; the blind and the lame; children clad and unclad, looking hungry and wretched. When the people get up in the morning they carry off and pawn their bed for enough to buy food or drink. If they can earn enough in the day to redeem the bed, they have it to sleep on during the night. The boys called the workers “foreign fools” and “foreign cats.” They threw stones into the houses and made noises about the place, or abused and teased the children coming out of the school. Buddhist priests circulated falsehoods about Christians. But the work grew and prospered. She has now over one hundred children. They are in three grades. They are taught 80 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE reading, writing, composition, geography, arithmetic, physiology, and practical Christianity. The Bible is taught every morning, and Christian songs are taught once a week. A new spirit has crept over the valley. The policeman speaks of the children as quiet and orderly, whereas they had been the bane of his life. The teachers are known and respected. C. E. Garst read a paper on “Indus- trial Work in Missions.” Great care must be taken not to pauper- ize the people by doing too much for them. The better plan is to give them some work while in school, so that they may pay their own way. At the creation every tree had its “seed in itself.” So Christianity is intended to be self-propagating. At the close I spoke about the work at home, and my impressions of what I had seau since reaching the field. We had a good day together. The workers in Japan are of one heart and one soul. They keep the unity of the Spirit in the bonds of peace. On Saturday morning the Advisory Committee held a session for business. Later in the day we visited the Garst family. One of the many joys of this visit was a talk with Dr. Verbeck. He was born in Holland and educated in a Moravian school. After coming to America he entered Auburn Seminary. On his graduation he was sent to Japan. That was in 1859. He was one of the first four to enter Japan as soon as the doors were opened. He could not preach publicly, but, like Paul, he dwelt in his own hired house, and received all that came in unto him, preaching the king- dom of God, and teaching those things which concern the Lord Jesus Christ. An old priest brought three young men to him. He said he was too old to begin the study of Christianity, but asked him to take his young friends and teach them. An old doctor came by night to talk and to get many books for friends in the country. Dr. Verbeck baptized the second convert in Japan. He told us about it. The first convert died a few hours after his baptism. The commander of an army found a copy of the New Testament in Nagasaki Bay. Through an interpreter he learned that it was a good book, and that he could get a copy in Chinese in Shanghai. Being ordered to return home, he kept up the study of the Bible, and got four others to join him. He sent to Dr. Verbeck, and asked him if he would give him instruction in this book. Once a week he sent a trusty messenger to Nagasaki with an account of his progress, and with a request to explain some difficult passages. He sent, because he could not leave home himself. This went on for over two years. One day the commander appeared before his teacher and asked for baptism. After due examination he was CLASS IN ENGLISH IN TOKYO, JAPAN. A WEEK IN TOKYO 81 baptized. Then he told of the New Testament that he had found twelve years before. The baptism was private. The commander was ready to die for the faith, but if it was known that he was a Christian, his whole family would have been exterminated. At that time Christianity was “ the vile doctrine,” and its acceptance was a capital crime. This man kept the faith till the last. Every day he took his family into a private room and read and expounded the Scriptures. Fourteen years later a daughter and a female servant sought baptism. Dr. Verbeck had much to do with educa- tion in Japan. Two young men came to him to study the English Bible. About a year after they came to him bringing two sucking pigs as a thank offering for his teaching. They had been examined that morning and had carried off the highest prizes. The success of these young men led the government officials to seek Dr. Yer- beck’s services in an English school to be opened in Nagasaki. Afterward he was invited to Tokyo. Here he became the adviser of the government in all matters pertaining to education, and in other matters as well. He was principal of a school that had over a thousand pupils. This school is now part of the Imperial Uni- versity. His influence for good has been immeasurable. Several years ago he severed his connection with the school and returned to> the woi’k of an evangelist. He is in great demand as a pi’eacher and a lecturer. He is called for in all parts of the Empire. One of his greatest works was his share in translating the Scriptures into Japanese. Dr. Verbeck is a hale and joyous old man, and a fine specimen of the Christian gentleman. He is as young in spirit and as full of fun as a boy. He has seen the Empix-e opened, and has seen the day when 40,000 souls believe that Jesus Christ is Lord of all. In recognition of his great services to the nation, the government has granted him and his family a special passport, giv- ing them the right to trade, sojourn and reside in any part of the Empire. Dr. Verbeck’s life is an illustration of the words, “Always abounding in the work of the Lord.” To meet such a man and to hear him talk makes one feel proud of his race. At the request of the General Secretary, I delivered an address before the Young Men’s Christian Association. Thei’e were over three hundred present. In that audience there were more brains and more promise than in all the priests and worshipers I had seen in the temples. Most of them could understand English. For the sake of those who could not, the Secretary interpreted for me after I had finished. All our own workers were present. The Associa- 6 82 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE tion has a fine building. It cost $30,000, silver. Most of this money came from America. A number of eminent men, among them the Chief Justice of Japan, are among the directors. It was a busy and happy week. I saw all the charity schools, and some of the work in the meetings for women. I met the Chris- tians for conference and visited the workers in their own homes. As scarcely any two live within five miles of each other, this took time. There were many callers at the home where I was enter- tained. They came early and late. Sometimes there was no leisure, no, not so much as to eat. I think 1 saw and heard about every side of the work. The week closed with a service of song and thanksgiving to God for his loving kindness. XII. MISSIONARY METHODS IN JAPAN. The work of a missionary is clearly defined. He is to make disciples and teach them to observe all things that Christ com- manded. This task is not so simple and so easy of accomplishment as many suppose. The people are not standing on the shore wait- ing for the evangelist, and eager to hear and obey his message. They are not hungering and thirsting after righteousness. Our Lord said, “No man having drunk old wine desireth new; for he saith, The old is good.” Myriads are satisfied with what they have, and do not wish any change. In other minds there is an inveterate prejudice against a foreign faith. To secure a favorable hearing for the message requires wisdom, tact, patience, and love. The work of a missionary is a many-sided work, and it needs a many- sided soul. I wish to give an account of some of the methods employed in Japan. I. PREACHING THE GOSPEL. A missionary is to go and preach. It is God’s good pleasure through the foolishness of preaching to save them that believe. Our Lord was a preacher. He went about all Galilee and Judjea teaching in their synagogues and preaching the Gospel of the king- dom. His apostles were preachers. They filled the Empire with their doctrine. There is no substitute for the living voice of the living man. The presence of an evangelist challenges attention and calls out inquiries. At once the people become curious as to his appearance and business and motives. It is for him to take advan- tage of this natural curiosity and supply the information desired. A missionary is not long on the ground before he begins to preach. He begins with an interpreter. As soon as he is able he begins to speak without this aid. Dr. McAll began with two sentences: “ God loves you; I love you.” The work may be begun in his own hired house, or in a hotel, or on the street, or in a chapel, or in a temple. Wherever people are found who wish to learn something about the faith of Christ, he is ready to speak. Paul made several long missionary tours. He said that from Jerusalem and round 83 84 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE about, even unto Illyricum, I have fully preached the Gospel of Christ. The world was his parish. His example is followed to-day in Japan. No missionary remains in one spot, like an oyster. His labors are not confined to one neighborhood. Confucius said: “A philosopher need not go abroad to proclaim his doctrine ; if he has the truth, the people will come to him.” A missionary must go out on preaching tours. He may be gone a month or two at a time. It is not difficult to get a hearing. By announcing that he is going to speak in some temple or in the theater, he can call from five hun- dred to a thousand people together. The audience is in no hurry to go home. He can preach for an hour, or for five hours, as he pre- fers. In this way he advertises Christianity. Many will call upon him at his hotel to hear more. They will come before he is awake in the morning, and will remain till long after he ought to be asleep. Some may be drawn by the idlest curiosity. They may be like the Athenians, eager to hear some new thing. Some may come to oppose. A few may come to inquire what they must do in order to be saved. In any event, he has the chance to apply the truth to the heart and the conscience, and to make clear what in his address was not understood. An audience at home has a thousand years of Christian history behind it. The hearers understand allusions to Biblical history, geography, and social customs. Not so here in Japan. One man inquired of a speaker if John the Baptist was a place or a person. Such misconceptions are not uncommon. On these tours the evangelist is brought face to face with multitudes who otherwise would never care to inquire concerning Christianity. He has thus unrivalled opportunities of disarming prejudice, of explaining difficulties, and of publishing far and wide the message of salvation. II. SUNDAY-SCHOOLS A XT) WOMEN’S MEETINGS. The children are gathered on Sunday in the chapels or in the buildings used by the charity schools. Some of the workers have two and others three schools a week. The exercises are conducted as at home. The same lessons are studied and the same songs sung. The results can not fail to be good. On the seats are small childi’en with babies strapped to their backs. The parents are busy and can not come; the children are glad to attend. Once a week each of the ladies of the mission has a meeting for women. This meeting is held either in their homes or in the chapels. In the two that I attended the women were studying the “Life of Christ.” Songs were sung, prayers were offered, the Scriptures were read MISSIONARY METHODS IN JAPAN 85 and explained. There is more need of such meetings here than in America. The reason is this: The women do not use the same language as the men. A woman may go to church and hear the sermon and understand very little of it. If the preacher wishes to display his learning and uses Chinese words freely, the women will not be edified. In the meetings for women the leaders use Japanese words and phrases, and their explanations are clear to all. III. CHARITY SCHOOLS. In Japan there are public schools in all parts of the Empire. The intention of the Government, as stated in an Imperial edict, is that education shall be so diffused that there may not be a village with an ignorant family, nor a family with an ignorant member. But the schools in Japan are not free. It is true that the tuition fee is small, but a fee of fifteen or twenty cents a month is more than many families can pay. Hence the need of charity schools. In these no fees are charged, as a rule. Sometimes a small fee is charged; this is done only when the families are able to pay it. In these the course is substantially the same as in the Government schools. The difference is that the Bible and Christian songs are taught. By this means distrust and dislike are broken down, and hearts and homes are opened to the Gospel. For centuries the peo- ple of Japan were taught that foreigners were no better than the beasts of the field. It was said that missionaries were sent out to teach the people to disobey the laws. This care for the children of the poor attracts attention. Persons that engage in such a work, with no promise or prospect of reward, cannot be so very bad at heart. The strongest evidence our Lord could give that he ivas the Messiah was this: “To the poor the gospel is preached.” This evidence is as cogent and convincing now as it was then. Acquaint- ance with the teachers dispels many foolish notions about them. They are seen to be possessed of ability, culture, refinement; they are kind and gentle and patient. It is impossible to hate or despise such workers. By their consistent lives and unselfish conduct they commend the Gospel to all who know them. The good seed is sown in the hearts of their pupils. Bishop Hughes said: “Give me the children till they are eight years of age, and I don’t care who has them after that.” Some of the children are won to the faith. All are more favorably disposed towards Christianity and Christian people than otherwise they naturally would be. Whole communities have been changed by a charity school. The pupils were brought into a new atmosphere. The boys were taught to 8(3 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE serve their country and to grow up into good men. They were pre- pared to be heads of households. The girls were better daughters, wives and mothers because of the instruction and inspiration received. These schools build up the nation; they contribute to the advancement of the Lord’s work in this land. One boy taught by one of our workers sends his mother to the meeting for women. He keeps the baby in her absence. Once his mother was going to a temple to pray that her sore eyes might be healed. The lesson that day was, “ Thou shalt worship the Lord thy God, and him only shalt thou serve.” He urged her not to go. She did not. After- ward she wanted to unite with the church, but her husband opposed. IV. TEACHING ENGLISH. The demand for this is not so strong as it was once, but it is strong enough to tax the energies of the missionaries. Once it was proposed to adopt English as the national language. That was a dream of the Restoration. No one thinks of that now. Then every man that could speak English was employed as a teacher. Men smoked and swore in the class-rooms. One article in the con- tract made with W. E. Griffis was that he should not get drunk. There was a reason for this clause. There is j7et a great demand for English among the students. This helps the work. I think it was Duff that said that no one could get a knowledge of the English language without getting a knowledge of Christianity. No one can read Shakespeare, or Emerson, or Tennyson, or Lowell, without discovering many of the concepts that are peculiar to the Gospel. English literature is saturated with Christian thought. One can not read long without learning of God as a personal Being, of Jesus Christ as the Savior of men, of the worth of every human soul, of the value of freedom. No man can read English without coming to know that it is a shameful thing for men to lie; that it is a noble thing to be pure, and just, and generous, and self-sacrificing. V. BIBLE CLASSES. These are taught in the Sunday-schools and elsewhere. Young men come to the homes of the missionaries. The principal of one of the great schools of Japan said to his pupils, “You can not understand English civilization without a knowledge of the English Bible.” Many read it for this purpose. They do not regard it as a revelation from the Father. They do not read it to make it the rule of their lives. They read it as they would read Longfellow, or MISSIOXAEY METHODS IX JAP AX 87 Hawthorne, or Milton, or Burke. No matter what the motive, if only they do read it. Dr. Gordon took a class of Buddhist priests through a course in the New Testament. That so many want to study the English Bible is a hopeful sign. It is a great and effec- tual door. Nothing but good can come from such classes. Many may not be convinced that it is the Word of God, but their erro- neous views will be corrected and their mental attitude changed. As they read they will become familiar with some of the great truths and eternal principles that underlie Anglo-Saxon civilization. They will learn that, not the Emperor only, but every man is a son of Heaven; that all men are equal before God; and that all are sinners; and that Jesus the Christ is mighty to save. VI. BIBLE DISTRIBUTION. The people are glad to get a New Testament or a Gospel. After a large meeting in a theater many are willing to buy. Their interest is excited, and they are eager to know more. One of our workers at the close of such a meeting disposed of five hundred portions of the Bible. As they read they are convinced that this is not “the vile doctrine” reputed, and that it cannot corrupt the people. They are convinced that it cannot fail to do them good. It is the basis of ethics and the foundation of good government and of the greatest material prosperity. The distribution of the Script- ures cannot fail to bring forth good fruit. The printed page can go where no evangelist has ever gone. In connection with this work is that of tract distribution. Workers usually carry an assortment with them while touring. They give them to pilgrims in the tem- ples, to passengers on the trains, to coolies on the street, to those who attend the services in the chapels. Some keep a supply on their desks, and give a copy to every caller. Some may be wasted, but all cannot be. The Japanese are great readers, and will make good use of any literature that comes into their possession. VII. TALKING WITH THE PEOPLE. The missionary may call to see a man by appointment, or a man may call to see him. At home people know their duty. They have no doubt about the inspiration of the Scriptures, or about the validity of Christ’s claims. The one thing to do is to urge them to accept Jesus as Lord. It is not so here. Christianity is a new faith and has a foreign aspect. Much of it they do not understand. They hear of the resurrection and of miracles, and they are per- 88 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE plexed. They want to learn more. One morning in Tokyo a policeman called to make inquiries. He was from the country. He had heard several sermons, and he brought four friends and a list of questions. Mrs. Garst called to see a man dying of consump- tion. She urged him to put his faith in Christ. He was troubled about miracles and wanted help. There is not a question of Bibli- cal criticism or a theological vagary in Europe or America which is not repeated here, and often in an aggravated form. Men are troubled and they call to talk the matter over. It may take a month or a year, or a series of years, to satisfy the heart and the reason. The missionary gives days and weeks to this work. He takes time from reading, aud from meals and from sleep for this purpose. On the trains missionaries talk to the passengers. They are surprised and pleased that foreigners can talk Japanese. They are affable and easily approached. They talk with the priests in the temple. Dr. Neesima urged a Cabinet Minister to confess Christ. They talk to men anywhere and everywhere. They sow beside all waters. They have one work on hand. The methods may vary, but the end in view is the same. They are fishers of men. Thej' may have to change the net or the bait, but they must catch fish, or the nets and the bait avail nothing. Paul preached sometimes. At other times he held dialogues with the people. Whatever the form of speech, his aim was that by all means he might gain some. It is so now. Other methods are employed. Thus schools are opened for girls. The higher education of women is not popular now. It is thought that it causes them to be less modest and more self- assertive than formerly. There are those who think differently, however. One statesman said: “Give me the women of the coun- try, and you may have the army, and the navy, and the police, and all the rest.” A daimyo said to amissionary: “If you have the best welfare of our country at heart, the best thing you can do is to educate our women.” Medical work is still carried on in the inter- est of evangelism, but there is not the need of this that there once was. There are some mission hospitals in Japan. In connection with these nurses are trained. Orphanages have been established. The children in them are brought up in the nurture and admonition of the Lord. In the recent war with China, missionaries went into the hospitals and served the patients in every way they could. The missionaries feel that the people must be reached and won to CHRISTIANS AND MISSIONARIES IN TOKYO, JAPAN. MISSIOXAEY METHODS IX JAP AX 89 the faith. If one method will not answer the purpose, another is adopted. It will be seen, I think, that missionary work is more difficult, and calls for men and women of greater ability, than is generally believed. Savage people are ready to accept what they hear. A missionary digs a well in a dry season, and they regard him as a supernatural being. They never heard of a well. They are ready to say, “The gods have come down in the likeness of man.” In Home it is said that two priests could not meet without laughing at the way they were fooling the people. The Gospel spread like wildfire. In Japan it is different. Here are ancient and venerated religions, magnificent temples, and priests without number. Chris- tianity was under the ban for centuries. Its advocates were said to be barbarous and devilish. The missionaries have to show that it is a rational faith, and that it is worthy of all acceptation. They have to present its claims so that men and women, born and bred in Buddhism, Shintoism and Confucianism, may be convinced, and may confess that Jesus Christ is Lord to the glory of God the Father. XIII. THE WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN JAPAN. The Indianapolis Convention of 1881 urged that Japan be occu- pied as a mission field. George T. Smith and Charles E. Garst and their wives were the first missionaries. Mr. Smith was born in Cincinnati; served in the army; was in Libby Prison for a time; was severely wounded. He was educated in Bethany College; preached in Swampscott, Bucyrus and Warren. Josephine W. Smith was born in Cornwallis, Nova Scotia, and was married in 1874. Mr. Garst was born in Dayton, Ohio; was educated in the Iowa Agricultural College, in the Military Academy at West Point, and at Butler University. M. D. Todd, who baptized him, urged him to devote his life to the ministry of the Word and to prayer. For some time he directed his studies by mail. Laura De Laney Garst was born in Hopedale, Ohio; was educated at Union Springs and Rochester, New York; was married in 1881. After their mar- riage Mr. and Mrs. Garst thought much of mission work. At one time they thought of going to Africa at their own expense. The Society heard of their thoughts and plans, and asked them to go to Japan. These four workers sailed from San Francisco for Yokohama September 27, 1883. On their arrival they engaged rooms at the Temperance Hotel, and within a few days began the study of the language. They were kindly received by the missionaries on the ground. Among those to whom they were under special obligation for advice and assistance were Mr. Goble, who had been in Japan thirty years; Mr. Loomis, of the Bible Society, and Mr. Bennett, of the American Baptist Union. They remained in Yokohama till they mastered the language sufficiently to be able to take care of themselves in the interior. They found that the treaty ports were occupied. There were more missionaries in the Concession of Tokyo than in the same area anywhere else in the world. After looking over the whole country they decided to begin work in Akita, the capital city of the province by the same name. Akita is on the northwest coast. It has a population of about 40,000, while 90 WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IX JAPAX 91 the province has a population of 600,000. At that time there were no Christian workers, either native or foreign, in that province. Most of the people had never heard of the Christ. For several months the missionaries lived in a Japanese house as one family. Mrs. Garst was the first American woman to live in Akita, Mrs. Smith having remained behind in Yokohama on account of sick- ness. The people were greatly amused when she and her husband walked the streets arm in arm. They had never seen anything like that before. Many called to inquire about their purpose, and about the faith which they came to preach. The neighbors used to come in to attend family worship. Four months after their arrival in Akita there were two bap- tisms. Two months later there were four more. A church was organized and the ordinances were observed. The services were conducted in Japanese. In the autumn of that year Mr. O. H. Gulick, of the American Board, visited Akita. The theater was engaged and meetings were held. Messrs. Gulick, Smith, Garst, and Kudo, the Japanese teacher and evangelist, spoke. The audi- ences were large and attentive. They listened from two to three hours. In this way the missionaries were able to get the claims of the Gospel before the minds of the Japanese. The next spring Mrs. Smith died. Her patience and goodness caused her to be greatly beloved. She was possessed of that meek and quiet spirit which is of great price. A chapel was built by the children in America as a memorial to her. The bell rings out several times every week and invites the people to hear the Gospel. The day Mrs. Smith was buried Dr. Macklin reached Nagasaki. He had received his medical training in Toronto and in New York. Ascer- taining that there was no special need of a medical missionary in Japan, owing to the proficiency of the Japanese physicians, he went to China and opened a mission in Nankin. The next year Miss Kate Johnson and Miss Calla Harrison joined the band in Akita. They had been efficient teachers in Madison, Indiana. They began the study of the language and taught in the school which had been opened. Soon after they reached the field almost the whole of Akita was destroyed by fire. The school building was opened to receive the homeless. The mission fed the people and did all in its power to relieve distress. Their conduct in that crisis was not without good effect. That summer the work was hindered by cholera. More than 200,000 died in Japan that season. All meet- ings were discontinued for a time. While carrying on the work in Akita, the missionaries did not 92 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE neglect the regions beyond. They made evangelistic tours into the surrounding country and towns. Honjo was the first out-station. Here was a town of 30,000 people without any Gospel privileges. Here a number of believers were gathered into a church. About the same time some work was done in Tsuchizaki, the port of Akita. At Arakawa a church was established by a Japanese Chris- tian. He had been a cook in Mr. Smith’s family. There he became a believer. He went to Arakawa to work in the copper mines. He had little culture but much zeal. He talked the Gos- pel to his associates and led several of them to Christ. With some help from the mission they built a small chapel. Here they meet and observe the Lord’s Supper and exhort one another. Churches were established at Innai and at Shonai. Meanwhile believers were added to the Lord in Akita. Regular preaching services, Sunday- schools and other services were held about the city. Bible-classes were organized for women, and were productive of good fruits. The women were poor and ignorant, but the Spirit helped their infirmities. Some died in hope of eternal life; some live and adorn the Gospel of God their Savior. In 1888 G. T. Smith returned from America, whither he had gone the year previous. He had been married to Miss Candace Lliamon, and she accompanied him to the field to assist in the work. Mr. and Mrs. Eugene Snodgrass came with them. P. B. Hall came out that same year. He remained in Japan till failing health compelled him to resign. After these arrivals it was deemed expedient to scatter the forces. C. E. Garst and Eugene Snod- grass and their families, and Miss Johnson, removed to Shonai. This was a city of 25,000 people, and the center of a vast and neg- lected district. Here a chapel was built at an expense of $300. One man had been a notorious drunkard. He accepted Christ as his Savior, and became a wonder to all his neighbors. They said that if the Gospel could work such a mighty change, it is worthy of all acceptation. Two years later it was decided to make Tokyo the central station. It was a good thing in many ways that they went to Akita in the beginning of the work. Mr. Greathouse, American Consul- General to Japan, said that this was one of the causes of the more general dispersion of missionaries over the Empire that took place from that time forward. It was a good thing for the workers them- selves. The experience gained was invaluable. They were able to preach sooner than if they had remained in a large city where the audiences are more critical. Nevertheless, Tokyo was the natural WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IX JAPAX 93 center of the work in Japan. People are constantly going there from all the provinces. From Tokyo they could go out in all direc- tions. The fact that they came from the capital would give them a standing that they could not have otherwise. Before leaving the north they placed the work in the hands of Japanese evangelists. At the present time Saito San has charge of the work in Akita. Noto San lives and conducts sexwices at Tsuchizaki. Kudo San is at Innai. Yokotsura San is at Arakawa. Tashiro San is at Honjo. Shonai is vacant, but expects to be supplied soon. Kawamura San is at Akodzu. There are chapels at all these points except Innai and Akodzu, and they are arranging to build. The workers in Tokyo visit these churches from time to time. Lately Miss Johnson spent forty days on such a visit and addressed many people. Mrs. Garst spent two weeks, and so spoke that ten were baptized. Several of the workers sent out are no longer on the field. Those in Tokyo and their work are about as follows: C. E. Garst preaches in the city and makes tours into the country. He pre- pares tracts for general circulation, and does whatever else he can to advance the interests of the kingdom. Mrs. Garst teaches the women and the children and assists in all the services. Miss John- son has a charity school, a meeting for women, a Bible-class, and goes out on tours. E. S. Stevens, Dr. Kina A. Stevens, Miss Lavinia Oldham, and Miss Mary Rioch reached Japan three years ago. Mr. Stevens has charge of one chapel, teaches a Bible-class, teaches English in the Young Men’s Christian Association, and studies the language. Dr. Stevens teaches a Bible-class and carries on her medical work. Miss Oldham conducts three Sunday-schools, two charity schools, two Bible meetings for women and one English Bible-class. Miss Rioch has charge of the Girls’ Home and Train- ing School, conducts a charity school and a Bible meeting for women. Mr. and Mrs. Guy came out two years ago. He has charge of one chapel, teaches a Bible-class, teaches English in the Young Men’s Christian Association, supei'intends the buildings in course of erection, and studies the language. Mrs. Guy has charge of a charity school and a Bible meeting for women. Three Japa- nese evangelists aid the work, namely, Nishioka San, Imai San, and Yoshida San. Other workers have served in Japan. Five years ago Miss Loduska Wirick was sent out by the Belle Bennett Band of Drake University. She is now at home on furlough. She did a good work, and her praises are heard on all sides. Nearly three years ago W. K. Azbill, J. M. McCaleb and wife, Miss Lucia M. Scott, 94 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE Miss Carmi Hostetter and K. Ishikawa came out. Mr. McCaleb has built a chapel and preaches in it and at a station out in the country, publishes a Sunday-school paper and tracts, and conducts a Bible-class in his own house. Miss Scott assists in the Sunday services, teaches English ten hours a week, conducts a large charity school, teaches the children singing, assists in the meetings for women, and gives some time every day to the language. Miss Hos- tetter has a day school and conducts meetings for women. A suit- able building has been erected. She teaches in the Sunday-school and has a Bible-class for young men in her own home. In addition, she teaches English ten hours a week in a large school. Ishikawa San teaches in a college for girls; teaches English to several, and aids in preaching. Mr. Azbill returned to America within a year. His purpose was to secure more workers. He is in Japan again. He has a preaching place where meetings are held three times a week. He gives lessons to two Bible-classes in connection with the Meiji-Jo-Gakko, and gives instruction three times a week to a gen- tleman who is making a special study of Christianity. As he can find time he engages in literary work. He has in preparation two small volumes — one on Baptism and one on the History of the New Testament Books. With the assistance of Miss Scott and Miss Hostetter, he is arranging to put up a chapel. Miss Alice Miller reached Japan last April. She teaches three Bible-classes a week; has a class in English in the Sunday-school; with the help of sev- eral Christian girls conducts an afternoon Sunday-school, and teaches English four hours a week in the Meiji-Jo-Gakko. If the time needed for correspondence and entertainment and the study of the language is considered, it will be seen that these workers have their hands full. The Disciples of Christ stand for precisely the same thing in Japan that they do at home, namely, the union of all believers to the end that the whole world may be evangelized. It is true that most Protestant missionaries cooperate. Still there are differences in faith and in practice that can not be hid. It is no answer to say that Buddhism has many sects. Then there are the wider differ- ences between Protestants and Roman Catholics and Greeks. If all who call upon the name of the Lord could unite, the chief hin- drance to the spread of the Gospel would be taken out of the way. The Japanese want the very thing for which we plead. They want the Christianity of Christ, and not the creeds, or dogmas, or theolo- gies, or customs of men. One of the ablest men in Japan says that there are hardly any of his countrymen who are loyal to the creeds WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN JAPAN 95 and dogmas which constitute the foundations of the several denom- inations. Common believers, he adds, have been ignorant, from the beginning, of sects and denominations; but never before have these been so coldly disregarded by the ministers and officers in the churches as now. One prevailing current throughout all denomina- tions is church union, and this current is growing stronger and higher and swifter. Leading men in the churches pay most diligent attention to the practical question of church union, and utterly none to the preservation of the denominations. All are waiting anxiously for the time and the man to take the final step toward a glorious reformation in Japan. The Japanese desire and pray for what we desire and pray, that there may be one flock, one Shepherd. Now is the time for us to publish far and wide the truth which we bold, and thereby help the Japanese to realize that which they so devoutly wish. XIY. CHRISTIANITY IN JAPAN. Japan was opened to the Gospel in July, 1859. Before the close of the year six missionaries, representing three American societies, were on the ground. One was here two months before the date named in the treaty. The Japanese signified their desire to receive whatever foreigners might bring, except opium and Christianity. A nation professedly Christian had forced opium on China. The Japanese thought these two things were one and inseparable. It is plain that they did not know what Christianity really is. The first workers were closely watched. All business with them was under the strictest surveillance. For a time no teacher could be engaged, and then only a government spy. For several years the people were not accessible on religious matters. When the subject was opened to one he would place his hand to his throat to indicate the extreme peril of the topic. It was impossible to find an audi- ence that dared to listen to the preaching of the Gospel. For two hundred and fifty years it was a capital crime for a Japanese to con- fess faith in the Christ. Bulletin boards in all parts of the Empire were covered with edicts to that effect. The missionaries were believed to be persons who came to the “ God-country ” to seduce the people from their loyalty to the Emperor, and to corrupt their morals generally. Christianity was regarded with feelings of intense hatred and fear. Its advocates were exposed to insult and assault. The soldiers scowled on them as they passed them in the street, and would gladly have expelled them as barbarians from the sacred soil. The government was confessedly hostile. As late as 1868 several thousand Roman Catholics were torn from their homes and confined in prisons in different parts of the Empire. Lest any one should mistake its temper, and think that an era of toleration had begun, a new edict was placed on the boards: “ The evil sect called Christian is strictly prohibited. Suspected persons are to be reported to the respective officials, and rewards will be given." Years after this a book-seller in Kobe was asked if he would be allowed to sell English Bibles. His reply was that any book-seller who sold a Bible, knowing it to be a Bible, would have to go to 96 MISS KATE JOHNSON, TOKYO, JAPAN, CHRISTIANITY IN JAPAN 97 prison. It will be seen that the statement made after the signing of the treaties, to the effect that Japan was fully opened to the spread of Christianity, is far from accurate. The missionaries wei’e not cast down. They felt confident that in God’s good time the Empire would be opened. They could not preach in public, but they did what they could. They studied the language, prepared grammars and dictionaries, translated portions of the Scriptures, and relieved the unfortunate. They opened schools and taught the English language and Western science. Dr. Hepburn opened a hospital and relieved the sufferings and attended to the spiritual needs of thousands. His surgical operations aston- ished the Japanese, and did much to create a demand for foreign medicine. They sought, above all, by pure and upright lives and kindness, to convince the people that they were not such beings as they believed. Dr. Verbeck was told that there were spies in his house. He said he was glad to hear it. The more spies there were about the better. There was nothing in his house or in his life to conceal. The schools opened by the missionaries were the means under God of securing a measure of good will and toleration. The sol- diers were the literary class, and they wanted to study English. They saw in English the key to Western science. Men of this class went to the missionaries and asked to be taught English. The gov- ernment sent a dozen young men of rank to a mission school for the same purpose. That event marked an epoch. It indicated a change in the minds of the officials respecting the character and motives of the missionaries. It was a practical recognition of them and of their work. When schools were opened in Nagasaki and Tokyo, missionaries were invited to teach in them. We read of an English engineer and a French corporal being engaged to teach, but the missionaries were by far the most competent teachers avail- able. They advised the government in all matters pertaining to education. They helped to secure able teachers from America and to locate the young men sent to America to be educated. The first church was organized in Yokohama in 1872. That was thirteen years after the arrival of the first workers. It was still a crime, punishable by death, to become a Christian. The pro- hibitory edicts were still unrepealed. But there was a better feel- ing on the part of the people and the authorities. The missionaries had, by their Christian character and conduct and patient labor, dispelled many false notions. They had carried themselves before 7 98 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE their pupils in the schools and elsewhere in such a way as to compel their respect. Embassies had been sent to Europe and America. They expected to find barbarous nations. They took a supply of salt along among their effects, thinking that they would not find that useful article for sale. They found a degree of material pros- perity and a civilization far surpassing what they had anticipated, and far surpassing anything they had at home. They found that the ablest statesmen and the profoundest scholars regarded Chris- tianity as the chief power working for righteousness and for national prosperity. They found that Christianity produced the highest type of manhood. These embassies were received by Chris- tian nations with distinguished consideration. It was impossible for them to feel as they had felt. They could no longer regard Christian men with horror and aversion, and Christianity as a men- ace to the welfare of the nation. They could not but feel some revei’ence for the faith of Christendom. So, while the laws pro- hibiting Christianity were not repealed, it was believed that they would not be enforced. The laws against a Japanese returning were still in force, but they were a dead letter. It was felt that if there were any executions they would be the last. Eleven men united to form a church. Their expectations were not disap- pointed; they were not molested. The next year the edicts were taken down. This was due to the work of the missionaries. In 1871, Mr. Gulick’s Japanese teacher was suspected of being a Christian at heart. He was interested, but had not been baptized. At dead of night he and his wife were arrested and sent off to prison. The American Minister and Con- sul pleaded for his release, but their plea was without effect. After some time it was discovered that they had been imprisoned in Kyoto, and that the teacher died there. When the second embassy went to the United States to urge that the treaty be revised, Ham- ilton Fish told them that so long as Japan did not repeal the laws against Christianity, the United States would not consent to place its citizens under Japanese jurisdiction. The embassy denied that there was any religious persecution in Japan. Mr. DeLong, former Minister, mentioned the case of Mr. Gulick’s teacher, and stated that the matter had been brought under his official notice. No answer was made to his statement, but in a little while the edicts were taken down. It was said that they were sufficiently engraved on the minds of the people. Oriental rulers are slow to admit any change of policy or any abrogation of law. The removal of the edicts virtually amounted to a declaration of liberty of conscience. CHEISTIAXITY IX JAPAX 99 The people understood it so, and the government was quite willing that this construction should be placed upon its action. That was the last of religious persecution. The Roman Catholics that had been sent to prison five years before were liberated and allowed to return to their homes. That year twenty-nine new workers reached Japan. This was the largest number that had ever been sent out in one year. The translation of the Scriptures by a committee rep- resenting all the societies wishing to aid in the work was begun, and three years later the government ordered the observance of Sunday. The Christianizing of Japan has grown steadily from the first. Different societies felt that they must do something in this field. Year by year the number of workei-s has increased. There are thirty societies operating in Japan. The whole number of Prot- estant missionaries is six hundred and twenty-five. There are four hundred organized churches. Of these ninety-one are self-support- ing, and two hundred and seventy partially so. The Protestant Christians number thirty-nine thousand two hundred and forty. There are twenty high grade schools for boys, fifty-one for girls, and twenty theological schools, with three hundred and fifty-three students. There are two hundred and fifty-eight Japanese minis- ters, and two hundred and nine Bible women at work. There are fifty-seven Endeavor Societies, fifty Young Men’s Christian Associ- ations, eighteen societies of King’s Daughters, twenty-nine orphan- ages, and one hundred night, industrial and special schools and classes. The Scriptures have been translated, and a million copies circulated; each year seventy-five thousand copies are sold. There are some forty weekly, monthly, or quarterly newspapers or maga- zines under Christian management. The American Board sent its first workers to Japan in 1869. This Board has more missionaries in Japan than any other. These workers have organized sixty churches with a total membership of eleven thousand. Of these churches forty are self-supporting. The converts are taught that the churches must be self-supporting and self-governing. The Roman Catholics and the Greeks are at work in this field. The Catholics report forty-nine thousand two hundred and eighty mem- bers, and the Greek Church twenty-two thousand. Once it was thought that Japan would be a Christian nation before the end of the present century. President Kozaki speaks of this thought as the air-castle of children. No one speaks now of the immediate conversion of Japan; no one doubts the ultimate triumph of the Gospel in this land. 100 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE It was the earnest desire of the missionaries that they should cooperate to form one native church. They wanted to secure unity of name and organization. They wished all converts to be per- fectly joined together in the same mind and the same judgment, to all speak the same thing, and to wear the same name. They sought not to import the differences that exist at home. The Japanese cannot understand these. If they did, they have no interest in per- petuating them. Their desire was to reproduce the apostolic doc- trine, the apostolic ordinances, and the apostolic life. Their purpose was opposed and thwarted by friends at home who wanted to be able to see and count results. Among the workers love and good will prevail. They respect one another’s convictions. They unite as far as they can. Three bodies united to form one. These were substantially alike in doctrine and in polity. The preaching and teaching of the missionaries is pre-eminently Biblical. This brings them close together. In the presence of Buddhism or Con- fucianism and Shintoism and secularism, they feel the need of har- mony and cooperation. The lengthy creeds of Christendom have no place here. Whether men like it or not, there is a necessity for a return to the simplicity of the apostolic church. It is worthy of special mention that the eleven men that formed themselves into a church in Yokohama called their organization a “Church of Christ.’’ The missionary was a representative of the Reformed Church in America, but that was no reason for calling the church in Japan a Reformed Church. These men knew nothing of John Calvin or of his teaching as distinguished from that of Luther. The churches organized by the workers under the American Board call themselves “Churches of Christ.” They are Congregational in polity, but that is not intimated in the name adopted. The three churches that united called the resultant the “Japanese Church of Christ.” These churches are Presbyterian in their gov- ernment, but that is an incident. In Japan what they wish to emphasize is that they belong to Christ, and stand for him. The church of the future will be a united church with a scriptural creed. XV. TRAMPLING ON THE CROSS. In the Imperial Museum in Tokyo I saw some engravings rep- resenting Christ on the cross. The plates are of bronze, and are fastened to blocks of wood. These engravings have a history. Nothing in the museum stirred me so deeply. It is generally known that Christianity entered Japan about the middle of the sixteenth century. For a time it was regarded with favor. After a while, for reasons of state, the authorities decided to extirpate it. In the persecution resorted to with this end in view, these engravings were used to discover secret believers. The people were called upon to trample on the figure of Christ on the cross. As many as did so were not molested; those that refused were turned over to the tormentors. Francis Xavier landed in Japan in 1549. In Malacca he made the acquaintance of two Japanese exiles. These were instructed and baptized. Xavier heard of a Japanese prince who desired that Christian teachers be sent to him that he might learn from their own lips the truths of Christianity. His heart had long been set on visiting Japan. The way now seemed open. Taking the two Japanese Christians as helpers, he sailed for Japan. The prince received him with marked courtesy. Xavier studied the language, but only a little. He was never able to preach in Japanese so as to be understood. Speaking through interpreters, he won many to the faith. Nobles, priests, scholars, and the poor and ignorant, were among the converts. Xavier went to the capital, but found it desolated by war and fires. He tried to preach, but could not get the attention of the people. He was disgusted, and left Japan disheartened by the realities of missionary work. He was in the country less than three years, but he left an impression that has never been effaced. He died soon after at the age of forty-six. The work did not cease with his departure. Others took up the task he abandoned, and won great success. Christianity spread rapidly in the South, and was carried to the farthest provinces of the North. In 1581 the converts amounted to one hundred and fifty thousand. The staff of workers numbered one hundred and 101 102 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE thirty-eight. They were Jesuits without exception. Two years later an embassy was sent by the believing princes to Rome. In their letters they declared their gratitude for the happiness vouch- safed to them through the knowledge of Christ. They begged the Pope to look with favor upon them and upon all the Christians in their dominions. They declared themselves the vassals of the Holy See. This embassy was received in Rome with the greatest honors. At one time there were six hundred thousand Christians in the Empire. The Japanese say there were two million. The Portuguese were the first to enter Japan as traders. The Jesuits came with them. The profitableness of this trade led the Spaniards to send ships to Japan. With the Spaniards came the Franciscans and the Dominicans. The priests and monks soon began to quarrel among themselves. The Jesuits were first on the ground, and regarded all others as interlopers. Each party cir- culated evil reports about the motives and intentions of the other. Soon after this the English and Dutch arrived on the scene. They wanted a share in the profits of this trade. They saw that it was largely through the influence of the Jesuits that the Portu- guese had a monopoly of the commerce with Japan. The}' went to work to break down this influence. They confirmed the evil reports that the Jesuits invented about the Franciscans, and the evil reports that the Franciscans invented about the Jesuits. High Japanese officials became suspicious of all parties. A sea captain was asked how Spain was able to conquer so many nations. His reply was, “ Our country sends missionaries to convert the heathen, and after a while we send the army. Then the Christians help us, and the victory is easy and complete.” Hideyoshi, the greatest statesman and soldier of Japan, was in power at the time. He resolved that he would make such a course impossible. He issued an edict calling upon all foreign religious teachers to leave the country within twenty days, on penalty of death. He declared that it was wrong for God’s country to accept a false faith from a foreign nation. When the Jesuits had the power in Japan, they prevailed upon the princes to compel their subjects to follow their example and to adopt the Christian faith. One pi’ince gave his subjects the option of conversion or exile. Another did the same, and robbed Buddhist priests of their temples and lands. Princes used their authority to advance the cause of Catholicism. Hideyoshi re- garded the foreign religious teachers and their doctrine as a source of danger to the country. With him the question was purely polit- TRAMPLING ON THE CROSS 103 ical. The two systems could not live in peace side by side. His thought was that the simplest and safest course was to expel the weaker of the two. He gave orders that the European and Japa- nese members of the religious orders should be sent out of the country, that all churches should be torn down, and all the con- verts compelled to renounce their faith. The priests were pru- dent, and shut themselves up till the storm should become a calm. They gave attention to the preparation of books and to the educa- tion of a native ministry. Meanwhile they carried on their work quietly. The converts numbered ten thousand a year. It was not long, however, until the persecutions broke out afresh. This was caused in part by the conduct of the Portuguese and Spanish priests. Their national and sectarian antipathies were aggravated by contact on the field. Each slandered the other. The Buddhist priests did all in their power to poison the minds of the rulers against the foreigners. The government went to work to destroy Christianity, root and branch. Rewards were offered to any who would inform where believers were to be found. Thus three hundred pieces of silver were offered to one who would inform against a father; two hundred to one who would inform against a brother, and fifty to any one who would inform against a catechist. Later these rewards were doubled. It is said by an historian that these persecutions have never been surpassed for cruelty and brutality, or for the courage and constancy of the suf- ferers. W e are told how they were hurled from lofty precipices, of their being buried alive, or being torn asunder by oxen, of their being placed in rice bags and heaped together and set on fire. Others were tortured before death by having spikes driven under the nails of their hands and feet. Others were shut up in cages and starved with food insight. In one year three hundred and eighty-four persons were tortured, including beating with clubs, and burning and torture by the boiling springs. The hot water was poured over them, and they were compelled to breathe the suffo- cating sulphurous air which the springs emitted. In some instances the back was slit open, and the boiling water poured on the raw flesh. Naked women were compelled to walk on their hands and knees through the streets of the city. Some were hung by the feet over a deep pit. The suffering was unimaginable. The pressure on the brain was terrible ; blood was forced from the mouth and nostrils. The victims lived sometimes eight or nine days before death came to their relief. One girl lived fifteen days, and died in the faith. Twelve persons were captured in hiding, near Nagasaki; 104 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE they were branded with a hot iron on the forehead and then on each cheek, and then, because they would not recant, they were burned. Prices were placed on the heads of priests. If a priest was found in any household, the whole family was put to death. The early history of the church has no brighter pages than those that contain the records of martyrdoms in Japan. Parents took their children with them to death rather than let them be educated in the ancient faith. Some were driven to desperation and raised the standard of rebellion. In connection with some political malcontents they seized and fortified a castle. It took an army of 160,000 men two months to reduce this fortress. Had it not been for the big Dutch ship and guns which the Japanese borrowed, it may have been that they would not have reduced it at all. Every man and woman and child in the castle was put to death. Then it was that the govern- ment resolved to exterminate Christianity at any cost. Hundreds of native priests and missionaries were collected and placed on board junks and sent out of the country. Buddhist priests were deputed to paganize the converts. An edict prohibiting “the evil sect” was published in all parts of the Empire. Another said that so long as the sun shines no Christian shall enter Japan and no native leave it. Griffis says that all over the Empire, in every city, town, village and hamlet, by the roadside, ferry, or mountain pass; at every entrance to the capital, stood the public notice boards, on which, with prohibitions against the great crimes that disturb the relations of society and government, was one tablet, written with a deeper brand of guilt, with a more hideous memory of blood, with a more awful terror of torture, than when a like superscription was affixed at the top of a cross that stood between two thieves on a little hill outside of Jerusalem. “That name would bate the breath, blanch the cheek, smite with fear as an earthquake shock. It was a synonym of sorcery, sedition, and all that was hostile to the purity of the home or to the peace of society. That name was Christ.” Nagasaki was the center and stronghold of the new faith. A governor was appointed and commissioned to root out every vestige of Christianity. He went to work resolved upon complete success. He selected a headman for every street and an overseer for every five houses. He held them responsible for their districts. Not content with that, he himself went through every street and into every house, and examined every person. If the inmates were not Christians, or had renounced their faith, he did not trouble them. 1. Josephine Smith’s Grave. 2. Josephine Smith Memorial Chapel. Akita. Japan. 3. Sue A. Robinson’s Grave. Hurda. India. TRAMPLING ON THE CROSS 105 If not, they were sent off to be tortured. In order to make assur- ance doubly sure, he adopted the novel method already alluded to in this article to detect secret believers. He had a picture of Christ on the cross, and he required the people to demonstrate their unbelief by trampling on it. This picture was carried from house to house till the whole city was finished. The head of the house, the whole family, servants of both sexes, old and young, any visitors or sojourners, were called into the room. Each was asked to set his foot on the plate. Infants were carried by their mothers and made to place their feet on the image of the Crucified. The Japanese who worked in the Dutch factory were required to do the same. Before the persecution began, whole districts were virtually Christian; Nagasaki was distinctively a Christian city. In 1567 it is said that there was hardly a person within its borders who was not a Christian. In 1629 not one was left who would acknowledge that he was a believer. The governor was proud of the fact that he had accomplished the task assigned him. Before the end of the seventeenth century it was believed that Christianity had been so completely eradicated from Japan that its existence was historical. It was regarded only as “an awful scar on the national memory.” No vestige of it was believed to remain. The Dutch had one trading port near Nagasaki. Here less than twenty Hollanders lived under surveillance. They were allowed one ship a year to come and trade with Japan. They were granted this because they did not engage in any religious propagandism ; their sole object was trade. But the fire smouldered for more than two centuries ; it had not gone out. After Japan was opened, sev- eral thousand Catholics were discovered in the villages near Nagasaki. Chamberlain says that without priests, without teach- ers, without almost any published instructions, they had kept alive a knowledge of the religion which their ancestors had professed. They had the Lord’s Prayer, and a few other prayers, and the ordi- nance of baptism. There was great joy over this discovery. But the old hatred and fear were still alive. In 1868 the government arrested four thousand of these people and sent them off to prison. They were scattered among thirty-four prisons, and condemned to hard labor. Lest any one should misunderstand the spirit of the Emperor, new edicts were put up. These said: “The evil sect called Christians is strictly prohibited. Such persons should be reported to the proper officers, and rewards will be given.” These edicts were not taken down till 1873. Then these Christians were 106 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE set at liberty and returned to their homes. The Constitution guar- antees to every Japanese religious liberty. This incident shows how useless it is to fight against God. It would be as easy to keep out the sunshine, or keep out the tides, as to keep out Christianity. Fire and sword cannot prevail against the Omnipotent. It is his purpose that the whole world shall be filled with his glory, and his purpose is never defeated. Tycoon and Mikado may issue prohibitory edicts, but their edicts shall come to naught. Yesterday I walked the streets of Nagasaki and saw Christians everywhere. The hilltops are crowned with Chris- tian schools and chapels and homes. I looked into the homes of the people where the inquisitors did their work, and where the ter- rified inmates trampled on the cross. I saw the rock in the harbor from which those who refused to recant were thrown. In the bay are ships representing all Christian nations. The Shogunate, which originated and directed the persecution, has passed away like a dream of night. It shows, too, something of the indestructibility of Christianity. If a corrupted faith could survive for centuries in the absence of the Scriptures and qualified leaders, what may we not expect from Christianity in its purity and where its exponents have the Word of God in their own tongue? It shows us once more that the Japanese are not so fickle as is sometimes claimed. Perhaps no other people would have resisted unto blood with fewer cases of apostasy, or would have endured so long with so little to cheer and encourage them. No one can pay a higher tribute to the Japanese than to recite this chapter in their history. No other answer is needed when they are charged with being as unstable as water. This incident affords all who labor and pray for the evan- gelization of Japan sure ground for the conviction that their labor is not in vain in the Lord. XVI. SOME CUKIOUS THINGS IN JAPAN. For several centuries Japan had no intercourse with the rest of the world. As a result, her people differ in many respects from Western nations. One of the things that impress a stranger is the fact that mechanics and tradesmen sit at their work. A blacksmith has his forge and anvil and vise on the ground. He sits on the floor while using his hammer and tongs. He can blow his bellows with his hand or with his toes, as he prefers. A cooper sits at his work. He uses his feet to hold his materials in place. Carpenters, stone-cutters and cabinet-makers sit at their work. An American could do almost nothing in that posture. A Japanese does nothing while standing that he could do while seated. What is true of mechanics is true of merchants. They do not stand while waiting for customers, or while trying to sell their goods. They sit on their feet, and are prepared to bow to any one who calls to examine their wares. Hotel clerks and book-keepers in the stores sit on the floor behind their desks. The Buddha is represented as sitting on a lotus blossom. Having attained to perfect knowledge, and hav- ing conquered passion, he reposes in eternal slumber. He is never represented as “going about doing good.” One sees few labor-saving machines. The Japanese have not used their intellects to make life easier and more comfortable for themselves. They have not utilized the mighty forces of nature to bear their burdens and to do their work. There are a few high smoke- stacks, but these are confined to the large cities. These are of yes- terday and represent foreign capital and foreign methods. Most of the articles produced in Japan are produced by hand and in a small way. Horses are used, but these horses ai’e either weak or the peo- ple think they are. You will see a man in the shafts pulling with a breaststrap, while a horse is pulling ahead of him, and his wife or his boy leads the horse. The load may not weigh over six hundred pounds. An American horse would pull the load and the man and his family, and scarcely feel the burden. In the North of Japan I saw men driving piles by hand. A steam hammer would do more work in an hour than these men could do in a week. Men saw logs 107 108 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE with a hand-saw. One of our workers told a carpenter how timber was sawed in America. The carpenter did not believe him. He said, “ I have been in this business twentj'-five jrears, and I know you are saying what is not true.” As simple a thing as a wheel- barrow is not seen anywhere. Men carry clay and stone on their shoulders. Large junks are propelled by oars or poles. A steam tug would drive a fleet of such craft. Where labor is so cheap as it is in Japan men have not felt that it was necessary to make steam and electricity do their work. It has not occurred to them that the forces of nature are the cheapest and most efficient of all servants. Policemen are everywhere. They are found on almost evei’y corner in the cities. They are in the smallest villages. There are ten times as many policemen in Tokyo as there are in Chicago or London. The people are quiet and orderly. I saw but one drunken man and no fighting. The Japanese are easily excited. It is cheaper to prevent than to put down a riot. The police are feared and respected. They represent the imperial government. They do not bear the sword in vain. You see soldiers in all the streets. They are going to and fro all the time. An officer rides along, and a footman runs before to clear the way if need be. The footman carries his umbrella when the sun does not shine. In a mon- archial country there is greater need of police and a standing army than in a republic. In a republic the people are rulers. That form of government could not exist if the people were not instinct- ively law-abiding. The home of the President of the United States is very much like the home of any other gentleman. It needs no deep and wide moats, no high walls, no gates and sentries. The dress of the people challenges attention. The ordinary dress of a man is not unlike that of a woman, except that a woman wears a large bustle. This is worn as an ornament. In summer the people as a rule wear nothing on their heads. The women arrange their hair tastefully; they wear neither hat nor bonnet. I have seen one Japanese woman, and only one, wearing a hat. She was dressed throughout as a foreigner. The jinricksha men wear a hat that looks like a wash-basin turned upside down. It is cool and comfortable. Some wear a cloth tied about their heads. You will see tens of thousands with no covering of any kind. Nearly every man and woman carries an umbrella. In winter both men and women wear something to protect their heads against the cold. Their foot-gear is peculiar. Many wear nothing. Others wear straw sandals. They are said to be very easy on the feet. Many SOME CURIOUS THINGS IN JAPAN 109 wear wooden clogs. They add about three inches to their stature. They are held on the feet by a thong which passes between the great toe and the next. Stockings are made with an apartment for the great toe. When several hundred people get off a train and walk on a stone pavement the noise is almost deafening. The clogs are a convenience in muddy weather. Soldiers, policemen, trainmen, mail-carriers and many others are dressed like Americans. In the interior the women that carry firewood and hay and truck on their backs are dressed like men. More remarkable than anything else is the scantiness of the dress of the multitudes. Thousands of men wear nothing but a loin-cloth. The low-necked dresses worn in some circles at home would not provoke any criticism or com- ment here. The houses are unlike ours. There is no cellar; because of the frequent earthquakes, cellars are dispensed with. There is no chimney. The fire is in a pit in the center of a room. The smoke goes out in its own way. As the house is open more or less on every side, the smoke goes out without any trouble. The houses are small and low. In Tokyo there are only a few houses three stories high. Most of them are one story. The majority are of wood. It is not at all strange that the average life of a house is seven years. Because fires are so frequent, many families have a room that is fireproof. In this room the treasures are usually kept. It is only recently that the Japanese began to use glass. They used paper instead. There is almost no privacy about an ordinary home. The passerby can see into every room in the house. The family cooks and eats where it can be seen by all. The first thing a mer- chant does in the morning is to take down the whole front of his place. His goods are all virtually on the street. There is nothing that is not in view. In hotels the bath-tub is in a place to which men and women resort. The wealthy people live in a compound. In the castles of the nobles, the retainers occupied the front rooms and the families the rooms in the rear. If an attack was made on the castle, the retainers were expected to bear the brunt of it. The best rooms were in the back part of the building. But the houses of the common people are open on all sides. The Japanese do not shake hands; they bow instead. Friends meet and bow. Christians meet in church and do the same. When the meeting is in a room where the people sit on the floor, the bowing surprises a visitor. They touch the floor several times with their heads. Everyone that comes in bows to those present. This bowing takes time, and seems somewhat tedious at 110 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE first, but it is not so to them. They are not in such haste as we are. They are anxious that what is done should be done properly. They would rather sacrifice time than good taste. They do not demand that a sermon be compressed within thirty minutes or less. No matter how long one speaks, if he has a message for them, they will listen without manifesting any sign of weariness. They do not look at their watches and show by their restlessness that they are eager for the end. A friend told me of a service held in a temple on the invitation of the priest in charge, which lasted from nine one morning till one the next. Nothing pleases them better than three or four sermons in succession. The theaters are open from ten in the morning till seven in the evening. The Japanese are the most patient and polite people on the globe. They take time to be courteous. They would rather live on less than disregard the proprieties of life. There are other strange things in this beautiful country. For example, you take off your shoes before entering a house or a hotel or a temple. It would be regarded as an insult not to do this. It would be the same as to walk on the table or a bed with shoes on. The floors are covered with mats that would be dam- aged if this was not done. The shoes are made with this end in view. They can be removed in an instant. At home we take off our hats. Children are carried on the back rather than in the arms. Sometimes they are tied in position. Sometimes a garment is worn with a place in it for the child. A sister or mother can play or work with an infant on her back. The child falls asleep. Its head swings about. The flies gather upon its face. It does not seem to mind these things. Men and women seldom ride or walk together. The carriages are made for one person. Young men and young women do not associate as in America. The sti’eets are full of people, but each one is under his own umbrella and manag- ing his own affairs. Horses are led, and not driven. A man goes before and the horse follows. Books begin where ours end. Instead of beginning at the left of the page and reading to the right, Japanese begin at the right and read from the top to the bottom. What we call foot-notes are placed at the top of the pages. Titles follow the name, while ours precede it. Thus we say Mr. Tennyson; they say Tennyson Mr. These differences are on the surface, and are slight. There are many evidences that the Japanese are bone of our bone and flesh of our flesh. We differ in language and in methods of work and in habits of thought and in social customs, but we are members of one family. We are chil- SOME CURIOUS THINGS IN JAPAN 111 dren of the same Father. We have been redeemed by the same sacrifice. We are heirs of a common inheritance. One is not long in Japan before one begins to feel that he is at home. He soon realizes that he is among friends and kinsmen. Japan is becoming more like a Western nation every day. Dr. Greene says that Japan is in the East, but really belongs to the West. Changes are taking place all the time. Many men are adopting the foreign dress. The hat is worn by thousands who dress in the Japanese style. Foreign shoes are worn. The native dress, picturesque and comfortable as it is, is giving place. Labor- saving machines are coming slowly into use. Already we see the railway and the street-car taking the place of the coolies. The nobles used to be carried on the shoulders of men; now they are borne in special trains. The sewing machine is seen in many places. Modern tools are exposed for sale and are seen in use. Cobble-stones were once widely used to hold shingles in place; now wire nails are used instead, to a certain extent. The people are learning to shake hands. Husbands and wives go out together as they did not formerly. Some of the brightest men in Japan have been educated in America or in Europe. Others have trav- eled extensively. They are determined that their country shall in no respect be behind any other nation on the globe. The changes that have already taken place are great; the changes that are tak- ing place now are even greater. xvn. FROM TOKYO TO KOBE. The original plan contemplated a visit to the South of Japan, after visiting the North, and after seeing the work in Tokyo. The South is by far the most populous part of theEmpire. It is des- tined to become more and more so. There is some thought of opening a work in the South. Accordingly, C. E. Garst came with me as far as Kobe, that he might survey the field and ascer- tain its needs. Dr. Butchart, of China, had been in Japan for a few weeks, hoping to be able to expel the malaria from his system. He was on his way home, and joined us. The morning we left Tokyo the Christians began to call at an early hour. They accom- panied us to the station. Some walked five miles to see us off and to say farewell. The Japanese welcome the coming and speed the departing guest. The missionaries were out in force. I took my leave of them, feeling that they had a difficult task in hand, and feeling that they are doing their best to perform it. When I left I had a greater admiration for them, if possible, and a higher opinion of their practical wisdom and persistency and faith and patience than I had when I arrived. God bless this faithful band. Our first stop was at Kamakura. This place was once the capi- tal of Japan. Once it had a population of a million souls; now it is a small village of fishermen. On the shore the ambassadors who came from Kublai Khan to demand the submission of Japan were beheaded. Here is a colossal image of Buddha. Once it was inclosed by a temple; now there is a temple inside. This image is nearly fifty feet high and ninety-seven feet in circumference. The head measures seventeen feet from ear to ear. Bayard Taylor spoke of it as the most complete work of the Japanese genius, in regard both to art and the religious sentiment. The body of the image is of bronze, the eyes are of pure gold. We visited the temple of the Goddess of Mercy and the temple of the God of War. The image of the goddess is thirty feet high, and is seen by the light of candles. Recently the priests of Kamakura announced the death of Christianity, and fixed the time for the burial. Such talk has been heard before. A Roman Em- 112 MKS. GUY’S CHARITY SCHOOL, TOKYO, JAPAN, FROM TOKYO TO KOBE 113 peror wrote on the coins of the Empire, “ The Christian religion has been destroyed.” Somehow Christianity has a charmed life and disappoints the predictions and the boasts of those who would destroy, and those who think they have destroyed it. Mr. Garst told a funny incident. A priest began his address in the usual style, “ I am a fool, and my speech is folly and not worthy of attention.” A Christian in the audience cried out, “Hear! Hear!” The priest got hot with anger, and called upon his assistants to put him out. Having spent two hours in Kamakura, we took the train for Yokohama. We called first at the Bible House. The British and Foreign Bible Society, the Scotch and American Societies cooper- ate. These societies stand back of every evangelistic effort in Japan. They employ seventy colporteurs. The agent told us that the attitude of the government towards the sale of the Scriptures was neutral. Other books are sold under license; the Bible is not- To license it would be an implied indorsement. The government does not prohibit, and it does not encourage the sale. In the war with China, the highest officials gave the society permission to dis- tribute Bibles among the soldiers. The agent feels that this per- mission is the harbinger of a new era. The Emperor has consented to receive a Bible. A copy is being prepared. It will be ready in a few months for presentation. One of the most hopeful things alluded to by the agent was the Bible Readers’ Union. There are eleven thousand people in Japan reading the same lesson each day. About half of these are not believers; a number are priests. Yokohama is well supplied with missionaries and mission schools. That night we had an earthquake that shook the house and aroused the people. The girls squealed, but no harm was done. This is the third shock I felt in Japan. The next morning we took the train and resumed our journey. Most of the day we were riding along the base of the peerless Fujiyama, the sacred mountain of Japan. We saw green fields, noble hills, beautiful rivers and the sea. There is no prettier coun- try on the globe. We saw scores of quaint villages and the busy villagers. We stopped for the night at Nagoya. At this place there is one of the most famous castles of Japan. A friend in the foreign office sent us a ticket of admission. In the feudal times every lord had a castle. Most of these have been destroyed ; sev- eral have been preserved. This one escaped the vandals. The deep and wide moats, the high walls flanked with towers, give one an idea of what war in the middle ages was. Before cannons came into use, one of these castles would hold an army in check for 8 114 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE years. The garrison might starve; it could not be conquered. In this city we saw some of the porcelain and cloisonne work for which the Japanese artists are so justly famous. In the feudal times, the wealth was in the hands of a few. Human life was cheap. There were a few lines only in which genius could exert itself. The nobles wanted silk fabrics and vases for flowers, and scrolls and pictures to adorn their palaces. The Raphaels and Angelos and Bacons and Shakespeares were put to work to supply this demand. A man might spend his life on one picture or on one vase. In this way the arts that adorn life were brought into a very high degree of perfection. The Japanese are naturally artis- tic; otherwise they could not have produced so many beautiful things. We called at an orphanage, and found to our surprise that it was a Buddhist institution. The priests have been driven to engage in benevolent work in self-defense. They say, “ Unless we stir ourselves, we cannot hope to hold our ground against such energetic, untiring propagandism.” In one place they organized a kindergarten in opposition to one of our schools. In another, they organized their young people into an Endeavor Society. Here they were driven to establish an orphanage. The next evening we were in Kyoto. This city was the capi- tal of Japan for more than a thousand years. In 1868 the Em- peror and his court removed to Tokyo. Since then, Kyoto has lost in political importance, but it is still incomparably the richest city in the Empire in historical associations. Kyoto was and is the religious center of Japan. There are 3,500 Buddhist temples, and 8,000 priests, and 2,500 Shinto shrines and priests. Some of these temples cost enough to endow a dozen colleges. Their grounds and buildings and altars are magnificent. In one there is an image of Buddha fifty-eight feet high. The face is thirty feet long. There is a bell that weighs sixty-three tons. It is fourteen feet high, nine feet in diameter, and nine inches thick. The finest temple in Kyoto is a new one. The old one was destroyed by fire. Several millions were required to rebuild. An appeal was issued to the nation. The responses were prompt and heavy. Women gave their hair to haul the timber. The main building is two hundred and ten feet by one hundred and seventy. The ridge of the roof is one hundred and fifty feet from the ground. This temple is a work of real genius. In another temple there are 33,333 images of the Goddess of Mercy. Kyoto is a city of temples. You see them in all directions. One street has almost no other buildings from end to end. The temple grounds afford the children a fine place for FROM TOKYO TO KOBE 115 play. Families hold picnics under the shade of the trees. Birds build their nests under the eaves and in the altai's. The temples, as ■such, are dreary places. The priests are the least interesting class of people I have seen in Japan. They smoke their pipes, drink tea and sake, recite their prayers, and do little else. Near one of the temples is the “Ear Monument.” An army was sent to conquer Korea. Instead of sending home the heads of the vanquished, they cut off 10,000 pairs of ears and pickled them in salt and sake and sent them home. They were buried and a mound built over them and a monument placed on the mound. We were fortunate enough to get permission to see the palace and the castle. The Mikado is said to be the Son or King of Heaven. The palace is built after the same general pattern as the temples. We saw the place where he worshiped his ancestors and the place where he was worshiped. We saw the rooms where he lived and the rooms in which he studied and transacted business. He was regarded as a god and not as a man. He never appeared in public. His subjects, except his wives and concubines and highest ministers, never saw his face. He sat on a mat on a throne behind a curtain. Messages were repeated to the women, and they repeated them to him. His feet were never allowed to touch the earth. When he went abroad in the city, he rode in a car closely cui’tained and drawn by bullocks. The people were taught that they would be smitten with blindness if they saw him. When he went out, the streets were deserted. The people went into their houses and closed the doors and windows. The greatest nobles threw themselves on the ground and allowed the royal coi’tege to pass by. Now the Emperor is a man. He is seen by the people. When he goes abroad the streets are thronged. Banners are everywhere. The cheers of the multitude are gratefully acknowl- edged. The castle is a far more splendid building than the palace. Here the Shogun held his court. Here the daimyos came to confer with their lord. I saw nothing in Nikko or in Tokyo so fine as this. It gives one some idea of the power and wealth and magnificence of the Shoguns, The moats have been filled; parts of the walls have been removed; but enough is left to show what this castle was before the Restoration. More to us than temples, or palace, or castle, is the Doshisha University. This institution is across from the palace. Prof. Albrecht showed us the buildings and some of the work. The Doshisha was founded by Neesima. The story of his life is stranger than fiction. A Japanese lad got hold of an Atlas of the United 116 A CIRCUIT OF TEE GLOBE States. From this he got some knowledge of America. At once he wished to go to that country. He picked up a tract which gave a synopsis of the Bible. In this he read of God as a Creator. That was a new thought. He reasoned, “ If God created me, he owns me.” He so thirsted for knowledge that he often read till cock- crow. He managed to get a little English. He ran away from his master, got to Shanghai, and from Shanghai to Boston. Here Alpheus Hardy, a Boston merchant, took him as his own son. He sent him to Phillips Academy, then to Amherst, and then to And- over. While in the academy, he confessed his faith in Christ. While he was in Andover, the second Japanese embassy visited America. He was asked to serve the embassy as an interpreter. He did so. He visited all the capitals of Europe as well as the principal cities of America. He made a special study of the systems of education. After he left the Seminary, he wanted the American Board to establish a Christian school in Japan. He did not get much encouragement. At the annual meeting held in Rutland, he was allowed to make a plea for funds for this school. He spoke with a broken voice and tears. At that meeting $5,000 was pledged. That was the nucleus of the Doshisha. He was urged to open the school in Kyoto. He thought that center and citadel of Buddhism was the last place in Japan for a Christian school. He was told that he might as well try to fly to the moon as to put up buildings; it would not be allowed. After much thought and prayer, the school was opened in a few dingy rooms of an old man- sion. There were two teachers and eight students. There was no course of study. The appliances were of the rudest character. When he sought permission to teach Christianity, he was told to teach it under the head of moral science. The priests and magis- trates were up in arms. They were determined to crush the school. Neesima’s connection with the Japanese embassy years before gave him friends at court. These friends never deserted him or turned a deaf ear to his appeals. He did what no foreigner could have done. He bought land and began to put up buildings. There are now five buildings on the grounds and eleven dormitories not far away. J. N. Harris, of Connecticut, gave $100,000 to found a School of Science. Mrs. B. W. Clarke, of Brooklyn, gave $10,000 in memory of her son, to build a Theological Hall. A cabinet min- ister invited some rich friends to dinner. He spoke to them about this school and its needs. These men raised $30,000 in silver for a school of Law and Economics. The whole number of students enrolled from the first is 3,358; the whole number of graduates, 296. FROM TOKYO TO KOBE 117 Of the graduates 106 are preaching. Of the graduates seventy per cent, are Christians. No other school in Japan has produced so many Christian workers along so many lines. The Doshisha is spoken of as the center of religious life and thought in the Empire. In connection with it are the Girls’ School, a Hospital and a Train- ing School for nurses. In the Doshisha there are thirty-five Japa- nese and eight foreign teachers. We visited Dr. Albrecht and Dr. M. L. Gordon in their homes and broke bread with them. Dr. Gordon told us an amusing incident. Talking once with a noble- man who had visited Japan, he asked him how he was impressed with the country. He replied that he thought the “billiard tables of Yokohama were better than those in Tokyo.” That was all. We called to see President Kozaki. He is a Japanese and lives in Japanese style. We found him a genial gentleman, ready to give ns any information needed. He told us that the Japanese are a religious people. There can be no doubt of this. There are 72,000 Buddhist temples and 56,500 Shinto shrines in the country. Dr. Gordon took us to Neesima’s grave on a hill overlooking the city. We felt that we were on holy ground. An unhewn block of stone marks his grave. He wished no other monument. The Doshisha will perpetuate his name better than any monument of bronze or marble. His purpose was not merely to give instruction in English and other branches of learning, but to impart higher moral and spiritual principles, and to train up, not only men of science and learning, but men of conscientiousness and sincerity. He believed that a nation needs manners, but it needs morals more. He believed that pure morality must be based on Christianity. Near by is the grave of Lieut. George C. Foulk. He was born in Pennsyl- vania and educated at Annapolis. He resigned from the United States Navy, where he had won a reputation for brilliant scholar- ship, and returning to Japan from Korea, where he rendered his country important service, he became a most valued member of the Doshisha faculty and an enthusiastic evangelistic worker. The students placed a slab over his grave with this inscription, “The zeal of thine house hath eaten me up.” This sentence fitly por- trayed his life. As we left the cemetery full of thoughts concern- ing Neesima and his work, I remembered one of his sentences, “Advance on your knees.” Leaving Kyoto we came to Osaka. This city is the Chicago of Japan. It is the commercial center of the nation. We climbed to the top of a pagoda and saw the whole city and the country adja- cent. After visiting a few temples we called at the penitentiary. 118 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE There are 3,000 convicts in this prison. Some are lads; some are in the prime of life; some are old and gray. It was a sad sight. We saw them fed. For supper they had a ball of cold rice and wheat, and a cup of hot water. We ran out from Osaka to Nara. This place was the capital of Japan for eight years. In one temple there is an image of Buddha larger than the one in Kamakura. In a Shinto temple we saw two dancing girls. The priest sang some- thing like a dirge, and the girls made some movements and called them a dance. In a village on the way is the oldest existing Bud- dhist temple in Japan. It was built in the sixth century. There are pictures in it said to be thirteen hundred years old. One curious thing was shown us, namely, the left eye of the Buddha. Our next stop was made at Kobe. This is an open port, and is much like Yokohama. We visited the Girls’ School of the American Board. The buildings are well adapted to the needs of the work. In Kobe we met, among others, a member of the celebrated Gulick family. Six brothers and one sister gave their lives to the work of missions. Their parents were missionaries in the Hawaiian Islands. Two members of the third generation are already in the field. XVIII. FROM KOBE TO SHANGHAI. At Kobe we took passage on the Empress of China for Shanghai. The Empress is a line ship. Her officers are courteous to all. This line is becoming deservedly popular. It follows the short route from America to Japan and China. I have never been on another ship where all the passengers seemed so comfortable and happy. There were between forty and fifty missionaries on board. Some one said that this was the largest number of work- ers that ever reached China on one ship. Some had been home on furlough and were returning. They were eager to reach the field and enter upon the work. Among these were Mr. and Mrs. Saw, of Nankin. It was a great joy to meet them. About half the num- ber are coming out for the first time. A glance shows that they are above the average in ability and scholarship. An acquaintance deepens the impression. The societies select men and women with great care. Among the veterans, Dr. William Ashmore is easily the Nestor. He has been on the field forty-five years. Long before Japan admitted any Christian workers, he was in the Flowery Kingdom. He has seen the number of Christians in China increase from three hundred and fifty to fifty thousand. His home is in Swatow. This city is the center of operations reaching many miles into the interior. Dr. Ashmore is a fine specimen of physical manhood. His head and face and voice reminded me of the gifted and lamented Isaac Errett. He is a large man in every way. In a busy career he has kept abreast of the best scholarship of the age. On one point he differs from many of his brethren. He believes that the work of missionaries is that of preaching the Gospel. He thinks that the medical work is a good thing in opening a district, but that, like the miraculous gift of healing in the early church, its value is temporary. He would use schools to train helpers and evangelists only. In his opinion, medical work and educational work are good things, but these are not the works a missionary should engage in. Dr. Ashmore said he knew he was regarded as heterodox on these points, but he is satisfied that he is right. Dr. 119 120 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE McGregor was born in Aberdeen, Scotland. He has been in Amoy, China, thirty-one years. He is yet young and strong. He has seen great things; he expects to see still greater. When he reached the field in 1864, there were one hundred believers in that district. There are three thousand now. There are nineteen self-supporting churches. The Gospel is preached at seventy stations. He told me of a young student who [had heard the Gospel from a barber. When his father learned that he attended church he was greatly concerned. He followed him and dragged him out and beat him. He di’ove him out of his house. He felt that his son’s prospects would be ruined if he became a Christian. The son confessed his faith in Christ, was educated for the ministry, and is now the pas- tor of a self-supporting church. Dr. Barclay has been in For- mosa twenty-one jears. He has lived in the southern part. His report is encouraging. He believes that the war will help Formosa. The country will be advertised, and people and workers will flock thither. He showed us a curious document. It is a passport issued by the Republic of Formosa. It runs thus: “This is to certify that the Formosa Republic grants protection to Thomas Barclay, of Great England, and calls upon all officials, gentry, soldiers and peo- ple to carry it out. Those who refuse will be prosecuted.” A republic in the Orient ! This shows how far American ideas have been spread. In Brazil, in Central America, in France, in Hawaii, and in distant Formosa, the influence of Otis and Adams and Hancock and Washington and Jefferson is felt. The day for abso- lutism is about over. Dr. Swan is from the great hospital in Canton. He is the associate of the distinguished Dr. Kerr. These two physicians and their assistants treat fifteen hundred in-patients and twenty-five thousand out-patients a jear. They preach to all who seek relief. They follow up their patients and seek to win them to Christ. As an evangelistic agency this hospital is said to be inval.uable. Dr. Main, of Hangchow, has one of the largest hospitals in China. He does not agree with Dr. Ashmore as to the place of medical work in a mission. He regards the medical depai’tment as most fruitful in leading souls into the kingdom. He can lay his hands on scores of converts that have been won through the hospital. Among the young men was D. Willard Lyon. He spent a year among the colleges of America in the interest of the Volunteer Movement. His father is a missionary in China. He was born on a boat between Shanghai and Ningpo. Mr. Lyon and wife are on their way to Peking, where they expect to live and labor for the furtherance of the Gospel. bl HUNG CHANG, A CHINESE MANDARIN. FROM KOBE TO SHANGHAI 121 Mr. Loomis, of the Bible Societies in Yokohama, is on board, and gave an account of the work among the soldiers. If any one had told him before the war began that the highest officials in Japan would consent to the distribution of the Scriptures, as they have done, he would have said, “If the Lord were to open the windows of heaven, might this thing be?” He was accorded the privilege of giving copies of the New Testament or of the Gospel to the soldiers in the army, to the sailors of the navy, and to the wounded in the hospitals and to the prisoners of war. The prince in command of the Imperial Guard was very glad to allow him to give a Gospel to each of his men. That prince is now Commander- in-Chief of the army. He was permitted to visit the Naval Acad- emy and to give a portion of the Word of God to every cadet. When the Empress visited the hospital, the head surgeon called her attention to the work done by the missionaries, and spoke of it as one of the most valuable things done for the country. In Tokyo, Mr. Loomis held a service for the Chinese prisoners. There were one hundred and sixty present. They were very eager to hear. A Japanese officer reported that a Buddhist priest came to the prison. The prisoners told him that they were Christians, and did not want him. Thei’e were two thousand five hundred New Testaments, and one hundred and twenty thousand Gospels distributed. Prior to 1873 it was a capital crime to sell an English Bible. The change since then has been marvelous. It is the Lord’s doing. The speaker was deeply moved. He is a man of prayer — a man of God. He was surprised at the ease with which doors were opened. God gave him favor in the sight of the officials. He said he felt as Moses did when the Lord hid him in the cleft of the rock while his glory passed by. Mr. Loomis is on his way to Korea in the inter- est of this work. Among the passengers is the celebrated traveler and author, Mrs. Isabella Bird Bishop. She is not a missionary, but is deeply interested in missionaries. She was born in England. Her hus- band was a Professor in the University of Edinburgh. She has made that city her home for thirty years. Her health has never been good. Much of her writing has been done in bed. She has traveled all over the world. Her books were written in the form of letters to a sister. In Japan she lived once for six months on rice and eggs. She makes it a rule to carry no food and no books She carries a bed and a chair and a blanket or two and some cloth- ing and a camera, and almost nothing else. She gets a servant who can serve her as an interpreter; she has no other escort. Not long 122 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE ago she was in the interior of China. She was taking a picture when some men saw her. They began to cry out, “Here is a for- eign devil; kill her, kill her!” She finished her work, took her camera and returned to the boat. Her life was in peril, but she did not think so at the time. She is now on her way to Korea, to finish a journey which was interrupted by the war. Mrs. Bishop is a friend of missionaries. She knows them and their work. Once she avoided them. At that time she had no confidence in them. She believed the evil reports that are heard in certain circles. In the providence of God her eyes were opened. She is impressed with the great need of missionaries. The world is dark and needs the Gospel. She has borne eloquent testimony on this point. She has described the sufferings of women and children in non- Christian lands. Her interest centers in medical missions. She is now making a journey in the hope of being able to assist this work. No one can be with such a company without feeling that they are diligent students of the Scriptures. At the daily meetings for conference every one had his Bible. The book showed that it was read and studied. Not only so, but they are men of prayer. They live near God, and they delight to talk with him. Moreover, they are full of joy. Their faces shine. It would not be easy to find another group of the same number with so many happy counte- nances in it. They have heard the call of God and obeyed it, and he has blessed them with his wondrous grace. Once more, they have perfect confidence in the triumph of the Gospel. The reports of riots and massacres do not disturb their serene confidence. They are without a doubt as to the final issue. The Mandarins may oppose; worldly-minded people may sneer; the Lord God omnip- otent reigns, and the whole earth shall be filled with his glory. There are medical men on board who have left a lucrative practice to serve the Lord in China. There is no one in the group who could not get a larger stipend at home than he will get on the field. At the present time a riot may occur anywhere. No mis- sionary is safe. Those who are seeking pleasant berths are not coming to China. The workers are ready to glorify Christ by living or by dying for him. Our course for part of the way was through the Inland Sea. This is the short route from Kobe to Nagasaki. There is no more beautiful scenery in the world than in and about this sea. The waters are studded with fishing boats and trading junks. The shores are lined with villages. These have a background of moun- tains. The Inland Sea resembles the St. Lawrence with its FROM KOBE TO SHANGHAI 123 Thousand Islands. One place of interest passed was Shimonoseki. This is the place where Li Hung Chang was shot, and where the treaty of peace was drawn up and signed. We entered Nagasaki Bay after daybreak. The Bay is narrow and about three miles long. The harbor is thoroughly sheltered, and affords anchorage for ships of all classes. The entrance is not more than one-fourth of a mile wide. Here are war ships representing all nations. Officers in gold lace are seen in every direction. Nagasaki is historic ground. Here it was that the Portuguese merchants and missiona- ries landed. Here it was that the Japanese became acquainted with Eui’opeans, and Christianity, and firearms, and other things unknown to Chinese civilization. Here Christianity was extir- pated. Here the Dutch had their factory, and here all business with the outside world was carried on for many years. In the Bay there is a rock called Pappenburg. From this rock Christians were thrown, it is said, because they would not deny their Lord. As we walked the streets of the city we thought of the time when the citi- zens were required to trample on the cross to convince the inquis- itor that they were not Christians. As we saw the homes of men representing Christian nations and the mission schools and the churches, we thought of the folly of fighting against the Most High. At Nagasaki we coaled. This was an interesting performance. The ship was anchored out in the Bay. Small boats loaded with coal came out. Ladders were placed against the side of the Empress. Men and women formed a line and passed up the coal in baskets. There were several sets working at the same time. In a few hours the work was done. It seemed strange to see women in such a place, but they want to earn a living. We left Nagasaki in the afternoon, passed the frowning batteries that guard the harbor, and soon were out on the Sea of China. We stood on deck as long as there was any land in sight. Japan is a beautiful country. The Japanese are a great people. Their victories in war are great; their victories of peace are still greater. God has a high mission for this nation. It seems to me that Japan is to be the leader of all the peoples of the East. In order to fulfill this mission she must have the Gospel. The heart and institutions of the nation must be Christianized. What is done for her evangelization must be done quickly. This is the nick of time. Thirty hours from Nagasaki we cast anchor in the mouth of the mighty Yangtsze. The next morn- ing we took a tug and went up the Whangpoo River to Shanghai. As the tug came near the dock I caught sight of the pleasant face of James Ware, who came down to welcome me to China, and to take me to his own home. XIX. A GLIMPSE OF SHANGHAI. Shanghai is the chief port of China, and has a population of 400,000. The foreign port resembles a European city. It has all the modern improvements, except street-cars. The Chinese city proper is walled, and is one of the nastiest places in the Empire. Contact with foreigners has led to no improvement. This is another illustration of the truth that it is only as people are renewed in heart and spirit that they are ready to adopt the institutions which are the fruit of the Gospel. The old city was offered good water. They said the water offered had neither taste nor smell; the water in the moat has both. The people wash their clothes and food and their persons in it, and then use it for cooking and drinking. In another city pipes were put in and water supplied free. The peo- ple preferred water that had some body to it. They neglected the pipes, and the good intentions of the foreigners availed nothing. Those who allege that missionaries would do better work if they put in sewers and water pipes and teach the people something about sanitation, ought to take these and similar facts into account. The truth is that moral regeneration must come first. Shanghai is the center of much religious activity. As my time was short, James Ware had a program arranged in advance. It was his wish that 1 should see as much as possible. Our first call was at the headquarters of the China Inland Mission. The buildings are among the finest in the city. They are built about a large court. This property cost not less than $75,000. The money was given by one man. Not a dollar given for the work of the mission went into the grounds or buildings. Here are the offices and store- rooms of the mission, besides living-rooms and a chapel. All the workers in Shanghai live here and eat at a common table. Those on their way to or from the interior find here a home. The China Inland Mission has a remarkable history. It is now thirty years old. Dr. J. Hudson Taylor is its founder and principal manager. We had the pleasure of an interview with him. This mission is pan-denominational and international. It accepts workers from all evangelical bodies. There are Churchmen, Baptists, Methodists, 124 A GLIMPSE OF SHANGHAI 125 Presbytei’ians, and others on the field. To prevent friction, the representatives of each body are grouped in one province. They are allowed to preach and practice what they have been taught. There are workers from Great Britain and Ireland, Finland, Swe- den, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, the United States, Canada, Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand. No salary is guar- anteed; they go out trusting the Lord to supply their needs. The mission does not borrow and does not go in debt. No personal solicitation is made or collection called for. The treasury is sup- plied by voluntary contributions. The work is managed by mis- sionary directors, assisted by a council of experienced workers. There is one council in London, another in Toronto, another in Australia, and another in Scandinavia. These councils select workers and receive and forward money. The aim of the mission is to evangelize the whole Empire. At the present time sixteen out of the eighteen provinces are occupied. There are seven hundred men and women at work. Forty per cent of these are either self- supporting or are supported by friends. The increase in the num- ber of workers has been wonderful. At one time eighteen were sent out. In two years seventy-six were added. In one year the reinforcements numbered oue hundred. The extra offerings of that year aggregated $50,000. Dr. Taylor does not believe in “the gun-boat policy.” If property is destroyed, no indemnity is sought. The mission takes joyfully the spoiling of its goods. The workers believe that if they do well and suffer for it, and take it patiently, that is acceptable with God. Some of the workers are now in the city besieged by the Mohammedans. Their friends do not know their condition, but prayer is made continually on their behalf. They believe that they will be preserved, or that grace will be given to bear whatever may come. Dr. Taylor is a man of child-like trust in God. He is a man of mark. All the workers in the mission partake of his spirit. Our next call was on Dr. Ernest Faber. He is a German of solid merit and great attainments. He is one of the first men in China. Dr. Faber has been in this country thirty-one years. For twelve years he was an evangelist in and about Canton. His voice having failed, he gave his life to literature. He has written some thirty volumes. These are in Chinese, in German, and in English. His scientific works have been approved by the government. He has written on schools in the West. He used to be asked, “Have you any schools in your country? ” He wrote to answer that ques- tion. In all his works he has kept steadily in mind the conversion 126 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE of China. He told us of a man in Japan who wrote a book entitled, “ How I Became a Christian.” He had been a Confucian- ist. His son presented him with one of Dr. Faber’s volumes. He was bigoted, and threw it aside unread. His son presented him with another volume. He read it, and was led to accept Christ as his Savior and Lord. Dr. Faber spoke of the prejudice against for- eigners. The people are led to believe that they take out the eyes, and brains, and hearts, and livers of the Chinese, and make medi- cine of them. It is this medicine that makes the foreigners so wise and so strong. The native physicians see that their craft is in dan- ger. The triumph of the Gospel means their overthrow. Dr. Faber has no doubt as to the issue of the conflict between Bud- dhism and Confucianism and Taoism and Christianity. Leaving Dr. Faber, we called on Dr. Joseph Edkins. The name of this distinguished scholar and author is a household word in the republic of letters. His studies have been in the field of Compara- tive Religion and Philology. He has written many books, and these have been widely i*ead. In addition to his work in the Cus- toms and in the study, he preaches every week. He has been in China for nearly half a century. The country was opened only six years before his arrival. The changes since then are great. The thought of them fills the soul with gratitude and hope. There have been riots and massacres, but the good done is immense, and is worth all this suffering and loss of life, and more. Sacrifice is the condition of progress. The blood of the martyrs is the seed of the church. The conviction of all men I have met in China is that the riots are instigated by the officials. The people are kindly disposed and would make no trouble whatever, if their minds were not poisoned against the foreigners. They are told that these people can see three feet into the ground. They can discover and carry away the precious metals. Their aims and motives are represented as evil, and only evil. They want to overthrow the government and take the country. There may be more suffering than there has been; officials may write books and send out circulars to inflame the minds of the populace, but the work is of God and cannot fail. We reached Shanghai on Saturday. Sunday was crowded with services. In the morning we met with the believers for the com- munion and for preaching. This was after the Sunday-school. There were three addresses in all. At the close of the service there was a sermon by Bishop Walden in the Union Church. In the afternoon there was a Bible class in Mr. Ware’s study. Among those present was a girl without feet. When her feet were bound A GLIMPSE OF SHANGHAI 127 she cried so much that the people thought she had a devil and threw her out. It was cold and her feet were frozen. They dropped off in course of time. She is now a Christian. Miss Lyon expects to train her for a Bible woman. Dr. Butchart thinks a pair of wooden feet can be secured for about forty dollars. Per- haps some one will furnish this sum. Another had been thought a demoniac. She was found by one of our workers tied to a post. She was naked and raving. Under kind treatment she improved. She was prayed with and led to Christ. She is happily married and lives an exemplary life. After the Bible class, Mr. Ware ex- amined ten candidates for baptism. One woman said, “ I am deaf, very deaf; stupid, very stupid; but I believe in the Lord Jesus with all my heart.” In the evening there was a second service in the Union Church. It was to the pastorate of this church that W. P. Bentley was once called, at a salary twice as great as he was re- ceiving. He did not entertain the call for a moment. All the workers of Shanghai attend this church. The services are at such hours as do not conflict with their own. The union sentiment is fostered by these meetings. We went from the Union Church to the evangelistic service conducted by James Ware and Evangelist Ni. This was a strange but fascinating sight. Men and women and children came in. Some smoked all the while. They came and went, but the house was full. Some scoffed, others listened to the words that were spoken. The audience was different from that in the morning. Chinese Christians have bright and happy faces. Mrs. Ware says that women learn to read after their conversion so that they can take part in the services. Evangelist Ni has a fine head and face. He looks like a bald eagle. One feels on seeing him that he is worthy of one’s love and trust. On Monday we visited the rooms of the American Bible Society. Dr. Hykes, the manager for China, showed us through the building and explained the work. Last year nearly 500,000 Scriptures, or portions thereof, were sold. Few are given away. People prize more highly that which costs something. The books are sold below cost so as to bring them within the reach of nearly all. The Bible is printed in the twenty-eight Chinese dialects. In different sec- tions of theEmpire the dialects are different. A Cantonese would not be easily understood in Peking. A Nankin man is not easily under- stood in Shanghai. Colporteurs go out and distribute the Word of Life. The missionaries on their tours do the same. Dr. Hykes is an aggressive man. There was a very marked increase in the sales last year; the sales for the current year are still larger. Near by is 128 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE the Presbyterian Press, the largest mission press in any field. This is one of the institutions of the East. It is known in all parts of the world. It was established in 1844. It cost $65,000. Never was there a wiser investment. It pays all expenses and more. It prints, binds, makes type, plates, and everything else that is done in a great establishment. One year it printed 30,000,000 pages. Every mission in China is helped by this Press. Not only so, but its work goes to all parts of the globe. The day we were there an order was received from the University of Berlin for a font of Chinese type. Mr. Fitch, the director, is an Ohio man, and a very clever gentleman. From the Press we went to a baptismal service. The candidates that Mr. "Ware examined on Sunday were present. There were ten in all. An address was delivered by Mr. Ni explaining the meaning of the ordinance. With the exception of one woman seventy years of age, the candidates were 3'oung and strong. They will form a valuable addition to the church. At the close of this ser- vice we hastened to the monthly prayer-meeting in the Union Church. Here we met many missionaries and several other noted personages. Reports were given from different parts of the field. It was a season of refreshing from the presence of the Lord. The unhappy divisions of Christendom were forgotten. All present seemed to be members of one body. That night the Christians came to Mr. Ware’s house and gave me a reception and an address. The sentiments are too flattering to be printed in English. Per- haps that is the reason they are in Chinese. They brought their refreshments with them. A stranger here soon gets acquainted and feels at home. He cannot fail to realize that he is among kindred in Christ. The warmth of their welcome is unmistakable. The next morning we visited the Anglo-Chinese College. We went early, that we might see the students in the chapel. This is the school of the M. E. Church, South. The teaching is in English and Chinese. The government takes the best students before they are graduated and places them in its technical and naval schools. It pays all their expenses and gives them a salary besides. Their knowledge of English and science makes them more valuable. The school has a very desirable property. The tuition fees pay all expenses, except the salaries of the foreign teachers. Some of the boys are Christians, but most of them are not. Many of them would unite with the church if their parents would give their con- sent. One mother threatened to commit suicide if her son con- fessed his faith in Christ. These boys are Christians in their con- CHINESE PAGODA. CHINESE PRIEST BEGGING A GLIMPSE OF SHANGHAI 129 duct. They are friends of the work. On the way to the school and back we went through a large market. It was curious to see every buyer using his own scales. He cannot trust the seller to use just weights and a just balance. That morning we went out to St. John’s College. This is the school of the Protestant Episcopal Church. There are in the boys’ school one hundred and thirty-five students; in the girls’ school sixty, and in the orphanage forty children. The school has a splendid property. It cost not less than $100,000. Prof. Cooper showed us the buildings and the grounds. There are no cleaner and neater rooms in China. We saw the boys eat their rice at noon. It was a sight worth seeing. St. Luke’s Hospital belongs to the same society. Dr. Boone began with two beds. The property now used is worth $50,000. This was bought by the Chinese, and given to the mission in recognition of the value of such an institution. Dr. Boone told us of the in- fluence of the hospital. A member of the literary class living in Woosungwas paralyzed by overwork. He was cross, cursed the children, and threw his crutch at them. He was the terror of the place. Dr. Boone was able to send him some medicine that healed him. His heart was full of gratitude, and he wanted to do some- thing. He opened a school and soon won the confidence and love of the boys. He would take no pay. His conversion deeply impressed many. They said if the Gospel can change such a brute into such a man it must be a good thing. The same day we visited Sicawei, the great Jesuit institution. There are two hundred orphans here. They are sent to school and taught trades. We were shown through the shops. We saw car- penters, printers, painters, tailors and shoemakers. These orphans are kept in charge till they are twenty-seven years old, lest they should go back to heathenism. In the nunnery is a school for girls. There is a seminary in which priests are trained. The Observatory furnishes Shanghai with the time and weather indica- tions. We saw the model of a new cathedral. This will cost $500,000. It will be built in time. The priests could not have been more obliging. They were pleased to see us and to give us any information asked for. They showed us through this vast estab- lishment. There are many other institutions in Shanghai that we did not see, on account of a lack of time. Mr. Ware drives furious- ly and accomplishes more than several ordinary men, but even he could not see all that is worth seeing in this great city in two and a half days. 9 130 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE One thing impresses a stranger out here, namely, the extreme cordiality of every one. I took a score of introductory letters with me. Dr. Ashmore told me I would not need them. He was right. I have not shown one. It is sufficient that one is interested in the work. Catholics and Protestants of all schools, and men who have no direct connection with missionary work, take delight in showing one every possible courtesy. Buddhist and Confucianist have invited me to eat and drink with them. With Tiny Tim I sajr, i( God bless them, every one.” XX. FROM SHANGHAI TO NANKIN. Mr. Ware arranged that we should call on the way at several out-stations in his district. This made it needful for us to go partly by water and partly by land. The first place which we wished to visit is Tsungming. This is a large island in the mouth of the Yangtsze, with a population of a million. We left Shanghai in the “Love,” the boat which the English Sunday-schools, under the leadership of Mr. J. Coop, gave the mission. James Ware was captain, Dr. Butchart was surgeon, and I was the passenger. The wind was straight ahead and blowing so hard, that with all our efforts we made only seven miles in ten hours. We ran into a creek known as the Exalted Bridge Creek for the night. As the sun was setting we took a walk into the country. We saw graves in all directions. In one field I counted one hundred and fifty. Some coffins are uncovered. Others are enclosed in brick vaults, or have mounds of earth built over them. Half the field is thus occupied. The time and place-of burial are fixed by luck-doctors. They get the date of birth and marriage and death of the deceased, examine carefully the contour of the country, the hills, valleys, canals, and water courses, and then consult their books and diagrams and work out the grand result. They fix the exact spot and the precise angle in which the coffin is to lie. It may take weeks or years to do this. The luck-doctors make a good living at this business. If any good befalls the family it is because the right man was selected to locate the coffin. China is one vast graveyard. You see graves along the roads and canals, near the temples, within and without the city walls, on every farm. One is never out of sight of these eloquent reminders of our mortality. The next morning we weighed anchor and started. We had to stop at Woosung for the tide to turn. This place is at the junction of the Whangpoo and Yangtsze. We called at the chapel of the London Missionary Society. Here we met a man who had been a fortune-teller and an opium smoker. He gave up both, burned his books of magic, and is now a helper in the mission. We entered an opium den and saw a Buddhist monk enjoying his pipe. He was 131 132 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE a dirty, ragged fellow. We tried to persuade him to abandon this evil and hurtful practice, but our words fell on deaf ears. Opium is the curse of China. Wherever we have been wTe have found its victims. We are asked every day for medicine to break the habit. The sad thing about it is, that it was forced on China by Christian England. When the Emperor was urged to legalize the trade and make it a source of revenue, he replied that he could not use as a revenue that which brought suffering and misery upon his people. As soon as the tide turned we tried again to make Tsungming, but failed. At dark we put into another creek and waited for the wind to change. At midnight Captain Ware started again, and at day- break we were at the land. If the “Love” had an engine she would make this trip in six or seven hours. Instead, it took two wThole days. An engine can be put in for one hundred dollars. Perhaps some good friend will wTrite a check for this sum. In that case one can go to Tsungming and preach and return the same day. Now it takes the best part of a week. This accounts for the fact that, though this island is only forty miles distant from Shanghai, no Gospel work has been done on it before. After breakfast we entered the city. We found Evangelist Ku in the chapel. He is a fine fellow. He is young and has not had much experience. He spends two days each month in Shanghai with Mr. Ware. There are services every day in the chapel. There is a reading-room open to all. So far as known there have been no conversions at this place, though there are some inquirers. It is difficult to trace the influence and to tabulate results. One man preached in Chefoo for years and saw no fruit. Afterwards he learned that four hundred wrere won in these seemingly unfruitful years. The promise is, “You shall reap if you faint not.” One sows and another reaps. The time will come when the sower and reaper shall rejoice together. Love never fails. Like all Chinese cities, Tsungming is a filthy place. The streets are narrow and full of people. The houses are ojjeu summer and winter. The cook- ing and eating are in view of all who pass by. There is no privacy and no delicacy. The gutters are rank and smell to heaven. Stagnant ponds, covered with green scum, breed malaria and pesti- lence. The wonder is that people live at all. But they do. Chil- dren are remarkably healthy. I have seen but one puny child, and that was in a hospital. Doubtless many die, and only the fittest survive. We spent two hours in the chapel, and then continued our journey. In the evening we reached and crossed the river. It was late when we found our hotel. In ten minutes the place was FROM SHANGHAI TO NANKIN 133 full. Men and women and children came in and watched us. They felt and commented on our coats, shoes, collars, ties, eyes and hair. You cannot lock the people out and eat and drink and rest in peace. An attempt of that sort would be resented. The doors would be broken down in an instant. The Chinese reason that they have a right to know what a stranger is doing. If he wishes concealment it is because he is planning mischief. Workers open everything to those who wish to see. A Chinese crowd is not always attractive, according to our notions. One man took our tea kettle, and putting the spout in his mouth, slaked his thirst. The noses of the boys are not always nice. If by pre-arrangement with one’s ancestors, one has a stomach that is not easily upset, one will find it more precious than rubies. My bed was on a box. The others had rough bedsteads. We had our own bedding. This is the universal custom here. Coolies, travelers, friends visiting friends, rich and poor, all carry their own bedding. People were coming and going all night, but they did not molest us. “ China’s millions” gave us a wide berth. We slept very well. For supper and lodging we paid about seven cents each. As soon as it was light we started. We made ten miles before breakfast. Though we were off so early hundreds were out to see us. Our coming was an event in their lives. It was like a circus at home. We were the first foreigners many of them had ever seen. We traveled all day in wheel-barrows. There are no railways and no stage coaches or carts in this part of the Empire. The wheel- barrow is the sole method of transportation. Thirty miles is a day’s journey. A wheelbarrow in China has as little romance and comfoi’t as one at home. It could be made fairly comfortable, but that would not be Chinese. Any change would show disrespect to Confucius. At the close of the first day one feels pretty sore. The roads are narrow and poor; China has the worst roads in the world. It is only by courtesy that they can be called roads. They are like Indian trails. Men must walk in single file. The bridges are about two feet wide. Culverts are often not six inches. A single stone, or a piece of wood flattened on one side, answers the purpose. Xo cart or horse could go over the roads and bridges in this part of China. The coolies are great, strong fellows. One wheeled two men over thirty miles in a day, and seemed as fresh at the end as at the beginning. They go faster with a load than we could without. I never looked at them without admiration. Give these beasts of burden the Gospel and a good education, and they will be worthy to stand before kings. 134 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE At every village the people flocked out to see us. Women tottered out on their small feet. A thousand would gather in the twinkling of an eye. They were curious, but civil. We heard the words “ foreign devil ” once or twice, but they came from small boys. The men gathered about us and felt us, but they said noth- ing disrespectful. No sooner did we stop than Mr. Ware began to speak. He illustrated Christ’s method, “As you go, preach.” He talks like a native and secures the attention of all. Mr. Ku was by his side with copies of the Scripture in his hand. He took a lai'ge package from Tsungming. Long before reaching the last station every copy was sold. We would wait ten or fifteen minutes at a place. The coolies would get their breath and smoke a pipe or eat a bowl of rice. Then we hastened on. Sometimes we entered a tea-house. This is a Chinese institution. It answers to our saloon. For a cent or half a cent we can have a cup of tea. There are tables and benches and one can sit and rest. The floor is of dirt or brick. Pigs and dogs and chickens act as scavengers. Birds build their nests in the roof. People come here to gamble, to transact business, to hear or tell some new thing, or to eat and drink. Ped- dlers come in and sell cakes, peanuts, sweet potatoes, melon seed, candies, and smoke. A man has a pipe with a long handle and one can have a smoke for a cash. No sooner were we seated than the people gathered and the conversation began. It does not take an expert long to introduce spiritual topics. James Ware is a prince for this kind of work. He. has an answer for every question. He keeps the crowd in good humor. Nothing ever ruffles his spirit. If the wind is ahead, he is sure it will soon change. If it rains, he is thankful it does not snow. If fleas abound, he is happy in the thought that they are not bed-bugs. It is a picnic to travel with such a jolly genius. We were traveling in one of the best parts of China. The land is as fertile as in Central Illinois. Farmers raise two crops a year. And yet they are poor. Their houses are built for the most part of mud and thatch. There are no barns. Plowing and harrowing are done with the water buffalo. We did not see a horse all day. The people are industrious and economical. Nothing is allowed to go to waste. The grass along the roads and on the mountains and on the commons is cut for fuel. Living cheaply is reduced to a science. The Chinese do not drink milk or eat beef. Their lakes and rivers abound in fish. We saw men catching them in all sorts of ways. The most curious method we saw was by the use of cor- morants. These birds are traine 1 to dive and swim so swiftly that FROM SHANGHAI TO NANKIN 135 no fish can easily escape them. The owner places a collar around the neck of the bird to prevent it swallowing any large fish. He can tell by its weight whether it has taken anything or not. The birds are rewarded with a part of what they have caught, or are fed with other food. These fish, either fresh or salted, are used with the rice, the great article of food among the Chinese. We reached Tung Chau a little after dark. This place is thirty- three miles from the place where we slept the night previous. Tung Chau is a walled city, and has a population of about 75,000. We went to the chapel and book-room and saw the evangelist in charge. We had been hearing of this work most of the day. At nearly every place we stopped we met with some one who had heard the Gospel or who had been treated in some mission dispensary or hospital. We rested for an hour or two in the chapel, and had supper. Mr. Ware and Mr. Ivu remained there to preach for a day or two and then return home. Dr. Butchart and I left for the river. This was seven miles distant. We heard afterward that the mag- istrate, fearing that we might be attacked, sent a secret guard along to protect us. This may or may not be true. We reached our inn about midnight. We slept well and were ready for the boat the next morning. That night I saw the watchmen making their rounds. One was beating a drum ; one carried a gun ; the third carried a light. The drum and the light would warn the burglars in time to get safely out of the way. This performance resembles that of hunting with a brass band. No missionary confines his labors to one spot. He has his center where he carries on a work. From this center he goes out into the adjacent country. This was Christ’s method. He did not build a cathedral in Nazareth or Jerusalem, and say, “Let the people come to me.” He went about in all Galilee, and Pertea, and Samaria, and Judaea. Once the people wanted to tie him down in their midst. He said, “I must preach the good tidings of the kingdom of God to the other cities also; for therefore I was sent.” These tours break down prejudice and disarm fear. The natives see that the foreigner has not horns and hoofs, and does not go about like a dragon spitting out fire and death. All sorts of rumors are circulated. All sorts of notions are prevalent. For- eigners are believed to be spies or secret enemies. They have some evil work in view. At first the sick will not take medicine from them. They are afraid that there is some charm in the for- eign remedy. They are told that the foreigners can give a pill that will make them become Christians. He can give another pill that 136 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE will make them go to church every Sunday, whether it rains or shines. A pill answering to that description would be a priceless boon in America, and would sell like hot cakes. The people see the missionaries. They are unarmed. They are peaceful. They do good and not evil. They sleep in their houses and put their lives in their power. They see that they are men like themselves, bone of their bone and flesh of their flesh, and their fears and prejudices take wings and fly away. This work must be done before China can be Christianized. We took passage on the good ship Sual for Nankin. Captain Scott is a Christian man and a friend of missionaries and their work. He did everything in his power for our comfort. There are men in the East, as in the West, who sneer at missionaries. I have found two classes that have confidence in them. They are the bankers and the ship-owners. With these classes the mission- aries have almost unlimited credit. That speaks volumes for them, and outweighs all vulgar and carnal sneers. The next morning we were in Nankin. I went ashore, thankful for the insight into missionary work which I had gained, and for such pleasant companionship. In the Mission Compound we had a royal welcome. - 1. Mrs. F. F. Meigs. 3. Frank Garrett. 2. Mrs. Frank Garrett. 4. Miss Mary Kelly. 5. Mrs. E. P. Hearnden. NANKIN. CHINA. XXI. NANKIN AND ROUND ABOUT. Nankin is two hundred miles from Shanghai. It was once the capital of China, and may be again. We had hardly reached the place before the work of sight-seeing began. The first thing on the list was Dr. Macklin’s clinic at the South Gate. Mr. Williams and Mr. Saw volunteered to go with me. We got donkeys and started. No carriage could make its way through such narrow and crowded streets. The Viceroy has built a wide road from one side of the city to the other. Horses and carriages are seen on it, but nowhere else. A boy goes with each donkey to twist his tail to make him go, to make the appropriate remarks when things go wrong, and to clear the way when it is blocked. The sights and smells soon convince one that he is in a heathen city. Though there are half a million souls within the walls of Nankin, there are no sewers and no sanitary provisions whatever. Large ponds are cov- ered with green scum. Gutters are filled with garbage and filth. Coffins and graves are everywhere in sight. Houses are plastered with charms to keep away evil spirits and disease. In times of pes- tilence the streets are lined with idols and altars. Cleanliness would do more to prevent the plagues than all the prayers and offerings. We found Dr. Macklin preparing an address and the dispensary full of people. The building is imperial property. It is an admir- able place for the purpose. It is in one of the busiest parts of the city. Tens of thousands pass by every day in the year. The build- ing is large and well arranged for a chapel and dispensary. There is a room in the front that will hold two hundred people or more. The medical work is done in rooms at the rear. Before seeing any cases, Dr. Macklin preaches to the people. The medical work is auxiliary to the evangelistic. Christ meets all the needs of human- ity. He has healing for the body, truth for the mind, and redemp- tion for the soul. He asked me to speak a few words, which he interpreted. While he was seeing the sick, Mr. Williams and Mr. Saw made brief addresses. The patients were suffering from all kinds of diseases. There were in the group victims of dropsy, epi- 137 138 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE lepsy, syphilis, rheumatism, itch, ague, running sores, enlarged spleen, hip disease, consumption, varicose veins, leprosy. Some of these answered to the prophet’s description, “From the crown of the head to the sole of the foot there was no soundness, but wounds and bruises and putrefying sores.” The scene reminded me of the saying about the Christ, “And they brought unto him all that were sick, holden with divers diseases and torments, possessed with demons, and epileptic and palsied; and he healed them.” Only the worst cases come to the foreign doctor. The Chinese prefer their own physicians in trivial cases. The clinic averages about eighty. With his two trained assistants, the Doctor gets through in two hours. Each patient gets a tract or a Gospel. After the clinic we had luncheon, and then we went to a tea-house and had some more Gospel talk. At another time I attended a clinic in the dispensary connected with the Memorial Hospital. There was first the preach- ing and then the healing. It was interesting to watch the people. One woman tried to kiss the Doctor’s feet. She felt as the woman did who said to another medical missionary, “ Och, docktar darlint, may ivery hair of yere head be a candle to light ye to glory.” Some of these patients come from places a hundred miles distant. In touring, the workers nearly always find men who have been helped in Nankin. These men are always friends. Mr. Hunt was accused by some soldiers of being a Japanese and a spy. His life was in peril. The captain recognized him and let him go. This man had been treated in the hospital. Though they are in daily contact with these diseases the physicians are not attacked. The promise is verified, “A thousand shall fall at thy side, and ten thousand at thy right hand, but it shall not come nigh thee.” The}r are better fed and observe the laws of health, and hence resist disease as the natives in their poverty and dirt can not. The Doctor showed me through the hospital. It is a noble building, one of the best in Nankin. In the reception room are pictures of O. A. Burgess, A. M. Atkinson, J. M. Trible, and Joseph King. When this work began the neighbors were angry and disposed to drive the Doctor away. When the hospital was built they made a feast, and hung up congratulatory scrolls, and made an offering of one hundred dollars. The boys in the school and the teachers heard of my coming, and wished to welcome me in their own way. They prepared a beautiful silk scroll and wrote on it an inscription far too complimentary to be exact. They presented the scroll, and one of the number made an address. One part of the ceremony was the explosion of a thousand fire-crackers. Afterwards I visited the school and saw its NANKIN AND BOUND ABOUT 139 workings. Prof. Meigs has three assistants. The Bible is taught ever}7 day. The exercises begin with praise and prayer. The boys are taught the classics, mathematics, geography, history, and sci- ence. Every truth of science or history helps to cut the roots of superstition and prejudice. Chinese maps give almost all the globe to China. Other nations are insignificant in size and ai’e vas- sals and pay tribute. A map showing the relative size of China and giving facts as to the size, population, resources, and form of gov- ernment of other nations, opens the eyes of the Chinese. In the native schools the Chinese characters and classics are taught, and nothing else. Graduates ask, Are Japan and England neighbors? In what province is England? Is the Queen coming to worship the Emperor? Does the sun shine in your country? Do you till the soil? Do you have any rice? Is Jesus your King? An eclipse is caused by a dragon trying to eat the sun. Gongs are beaten and cannon fired to scare the monster away. A few lessons in astron- omy are sufficient to make eclipses intelligible. The telescope and other scientific apparatus presented to this school by Captain Atkin- son, and the microscope presented by President Loos, are of the greatest value. Prof. Meigs has as many boys as he can take. He needs a dormitory. This will cost about $1,500. He is preparing to start some industrial work. He feels that this department is absolutely necessary. In China the literary class is the highest of all. It has the whitest and softest hands and the longest finger- nails. It has the greatest aversion to labor. This feeling must be broken down. If pupils are taught to work with their hands an hour every day, their conception of the dignity of labor will be changed. In this school are several promising young men. It is hoped that they will develop into effective evangelists. One day was spent with Mr. Williams on one of his circuits. This one was about ten miles in length. We left the city by one gate and came back by another. He spoke six or eight times. At each village we got down from our donkeys and ordered some tea. The people gathered about us and began to ask questions. They asked our honorable names and exalted ages, where our noble man- sions are located, how many princely sons we had. Mr. Williams gave them the facts called for, and then began to speak on Gospel themes. As a rule, they listened attentively. Sometimes they would urge an objection or ask a question. This would give him a chance to drive some truth home to the heart and conscience. We spent an hour in a temple. The monks were very friendly. They knew Mr. Williams. He spoke to them about the idols, and about 140 A CIRCUIT OF TEE GLOBE the only true God, and Jesus Christ whom he did send. The Hia Kwan chapel soon filled. While Mrs. Williams spoke to the women in a separate room, he addressed the men. It was such a crowd as gathered about our Lord or about Paul on his tours. The way they pressed to the front, and the eagerness with which they listened for an hour, showed that he had them in the hollow of his hand. His fluency is astonishing. Few men can speak in English with such rapidity as he can in Chinese. His knowledge of the people, their history, their customs, and their manner of life, served him well. When the books are opened it may be found written “that this man and that man were born there.” The next morning Mr. Meigs asked Mr. Saw and me to go with him on one of his circuits. We were gone two days. The first day we had five services. We spent the evening and night in a temple in a large village. Part of the building is used as a school. The monk in charge was glad to see us, and was assiduous in supplying our needs. He sent the boys home, and hastened to cook supper for us. While he was in the kitchen, we went out and held a serv- ice on the street, and asked all to come to the temple when the work of the day was done. While we were eating, an old woman came in to worship. She lighted a candle on the altar, burned some incense before each of the gods, then went back to the altar, beat the gong and kotowed ten times. Then she arose, blew out the candle and left. Meanwhile the men of the place were coming in. Messrs. Meigs and Saw sang and expounded a hymn. We asked them if they worshiped the gods. They said yes. They worship the gods of heaven and earth and many others. We asked them why they worshiped. They said their hearts prompted them. We inquired what benefit they received. They promptly replied, “None.” We asked them if there was any connection between their worship and their conduct. They answered us that there was not. The pious man is the man that goes to the temples and wor- ships the gods. It matters not how he lives. We tried to learn what they thought about sin. One old man said it was eating meat. He was a vegetarian. Another said that it was an offense done against a man by another. Othei’s spoke of it as a bi’each of pro- priety. Others still spoke of it as a violation of the laws. They did not seem to think it had anything to do with the gods. We asked them if there were any reasons why men should not sin. They said that a man ought not to sin in order that he might not be beaten or beheaded. We asked them if they were sinners. They laughed at the thought, and told us that they were Chinese. They X AXE IX AXD ROUXD ABOUT 141 regard themselves very much as the Pharisees did when our Lord was on earth. They think that outside barbarians sin; they do not. Toward the close one man admitted that he was a sinner. He was the brightest man present. He was the principal speaker throughout. He was a man of ability and culture. The Spirit of God was at work. That man was convicted of sin. Mr. Saw asked him if he would not then and there accept Jesus Christ as his Savior. He pressed him to decide. The man was convinced, but for some reason was not willing to make the good confession. He said, “It is hard to decide.” The service lasted three hours, and was one of the most impressive I ever attended. The light was dim. Hundreds of gilt idols were about us. Incense pervaded the room. The listeners filled every available inch of space. The faces of many indicated that they were in earnest. After the audi- ence withdrew the teacher placed the desks side by side, and helped us make our beds. Before we rose the next morning the old woman came in and went through the same performance as on the evening before. She has done this for twenty-five years with- out missing a morning or evening. The teacher cooked some eggs and made tea, and sent us on our way rejoicing. He has no faith in the idols. But he burns incense and bows down. He w’ants us to rent a building in the village and come regularly. In all the vil- lages we found the people willing to hear the Gospel. Mr. Meigs sold Scriptures and dispensed medicine. The people used to fear him. They regarded him with contempt and aversion. On a recent visit an old man said to the people: “These men have been coming here for years. We know them, and we know that they are good men.” That night there was a feast in the Hospital. One of Dr. Macklin’s assistants was married, and gave a feast in honor of the happy event. There were about thirty dishes. It was an elab- orate affair. Each guest took delight in preferring the others before himself. It was a pleasant evening. While in Nankin I visited several temples. They are not used much except during the great festivals. Some are used as bar- racks, others are stoi'ed with coffins. I spoke once at the South Gate, and once at the Drum Tower, and once at the Union Service. I saw Miss Lyon’s work among the women and children. One evening was spent with Dr. and Mrs. Beebe. They have been very kind to our workers. They are most estimable people. Among many incidents told by the Doctor was one with a dash of humor. One morning he was called to one of the Yamens. The imperial chamberlain died, and his wife thought the proper thing to do was 142 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE to commit suicide. She had swallowed gold. Her people were in consternation. The Doctor gave her some medicine and withdrew. The next morning he was called again. He found his patient much better. She wanted to know if any evil effects would follow. He assured her that there would not. The incident passed out of his mind in a few days. Some weeks after he was visited by some men from the Yamen and asked if they might put up a tablet in the hos- pital in honor of this cure. He said they could. They wanted to know if they could do it that afternoon. That afternoon was quite agreeable. About three o’clock a great procession came down the street. A magistrate in his official robes was in command. A com- pany of infantry and a crowd of men bearing firecrackers attended the bearers of the tablet. Arriving at the place the soldiers fired a salute. Ten thousand firecrackers were exploded. The Doctor took the magistrate into the guest room and gave him tea, while the carpenters were getting the tablet in place. Then the guns were fired again, and ten thousand more firecrackers exploded. On the tablet were four characters in gold. They read: “ Divine Percep- tion of Mysterious Devices.” All that Dr. Beebe had done was to give the woman a dose of castor oil. Mrs. Beebe said one thing of which I have thought much. It was to the effect that any one who can make them laugh is a benefactor. The soul is cast down by the pride, indifference, hypocrisy, absurdities, stolid ignorance and inveterate prejudice of the people. Poverty and disease make exhaustive drafts upon the sympathies. Virtue goes out. A hearty laugh brings relief and helps one to regain one’s usual faith and hope. XXII. CHU CHEO AND LU HOH. In company with Mr. Saw I started from Nankin on a visit to these two places. Chu Cheo is northwest from Nankin, and is forty miles distant. Lu Hoh is northeast from Nankin, and is thirty miles from it. Chu Cheo and Lu Hoh are forty miles apart. Mr. Williams went with us as far as Pukeo. He preaches here every week in the chapel rented by the mission. We were two hours in crossing the river. The Chinese are never in a hurry. Their part- ing words are, “ Slowly, slowly go.” It would be as easy to hurry a Court of Chancery as to hurry a coolie. The animals were gotten aboard the ferry-boat with much difficulty. A rope was tied about the neck and two men pulled on it; another took hold of the tail; another still used the wffiip. They were forced to jump up about four feet and then to jump down into the hold of the junk. It wrould be an easy matter to build a gangway. This would be a sav- ing in time and trouble, to say nothing of the comfort to the ani- mals. But their ancestors did it in this way, and any improvement is out of order. Truly, “ the dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty.” When a dying man is driven out of doors to breathe his last on the street, when a drowning man is left to perish unless he can pay some one to rescue him, we need not be surprised if mules and donkeys fare as they do. Chu Cheo is on the great high road between Nankin and Peking. Imperial couriers go this way when they bear messages from the Emperor to the Viceroy. This road was once fairly good, but it has been sadly neglected. No wagon could go over it now. We met caravans of donkeys carrying rice and wheat and oil and mer- chandise. We met wheelbarrows without number and coolies car- rying heavy loads, but we did not meet a cart or wagon drawn by horses or oxen or steam. The bridges are good but narrow. Night coming on, we put up at an inn. The place was well supplied with opium, but had neither rice nor tea. We went out to a tea-house and got some supper. We slept in a large room with a score or more of human beings, and pigs and donkeys and fleas. There was no lock on the door and no door to the establishment. We were 143 144 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE weary and slept well. The lullabies of the donkeys were unneces- sary. The fleas insisted on escorting us to the next station, and were loth to leave us then. While in this hotel and on this trip, I felt that the shadow had gone on the sun-dial several millenniums. We were in the Patriarchal age. The rude plows and harrows and harness, the method of sowing seed and reaping the harvest, are such as were in use in the days of Abraham. The ox still treads out the corn, or it is beaten out by hand. The farmer throws it up into the air that the wind may drive away the chaff. The mill- stone is turned by an ass or by the wife. In large towns flint and steel are sold to kindle the fire. Men and women haul boats along the rivers and canals. The next day, a little before noon, we reached Chu Cheo. We took Mr. and Mrs. Hearnden and Mr. and Mrs. Hunt by surprise. Their welcome was not the less cordial on that account. This town has a population of 20,000, and is the center of a district having a population of 4,000,000. From this center the missionaries evangelize the outlying cities and villages in a district of 5,000 square miles. That afternoon we left for Yu Ho Tsz, arriving at eight o’clock. Evangelist Shi and wife soon had some refreshments on the table. Mrs. Shi was the first convert at this village. Soon after her bap- tism she determined to build a chapel. Her neighbors heard of her purpose and came to her help. The chapel is a very neat building. It is large enough. She was then a widow. Since that time she married Mr. Shi. He was once a story-teller. He made a living by giving dramatic exhibitions of ancient scenes in Chinese history. Dr. Macklin led him to Christ and urged him to cut loose from all foreigners and earn his support among his own people. In so doing he would convince the Chinese that he did not make a con- fession of faith in Christ in order that he might eat the church’s rice. He preaches in this chapel every day when he is at home. His work is known as far north as Peking. Travelers spend the night in the village. They hear the bell and stroll in to listen to the message. They hear an eloquent address from a Chinese. They carry a report of the place and the work to their homes. Early the next morning we went out to apprise the people that there would be a service in the chapel at eleven o’clock. We called on a man of some local celebrity. Once he was a terror to the com- munity. He was so harsh and cruel that two wives committed suicide. He felt the disgrace so keenly that he made up his mind to dispose of his property, cut off his tail, enter a monastery, and become a Buddhist monk. While in the village he heard the Gos- MEMORIAL HOSPITAL IX NANKIN, CHINA. HONG-KONG. CHU CHEO AND LU EOH 145 pel, became interested in it, and soon made the good confession. Now he is an earnest Christian. He has thirty tenants on his land. His desire is to lead them all to Christ. He told us he had been a great sinner, and had experienced a great deliverance. He had been forgiven much, and he loves much. I spoke and Mr. Hunt interpreted me. Mr. Saw spoke on the same theme and applied the truth to the hearts and consciences of all present. After the service we were invited by Mr. Shi to sit down to dinner. Several neighbors were also invited. It took longer to get the guests seated than to eat the dinner. At one time I feared that they would never sit down. Each one wanted the lowest place. Each one sought to press the other into the seat of honor. At the table each one selected the choicest morsels, and, with his own chopsticks, placed them in the bowl of his neighbor. This was all in accordance with Chinese etiquette. In some circles outside of China, each one wants the highest seat and desires to have the choicest morsels on his own plate. • Dinner being over, we returned to Chu Cheo. The man from whom the mission rented the buildings in which the missionaries, live and work had invited us, on our arrival, to a feast in his house that evening. When the food was ready to be served, he came to call us. This man is a Confucianist. He had been a Taiping rebel. He was the only man in Chu Cheo that was willing to help our peo- ple when they first went to that place. The rest of the citizens would not rent their property, and wanted to chase them away. This man stood by them from the first day until now. He was imprisoned for his course. Because he was a police official and a man of influence, he was kept in confinement only a few weeks. He is now eighty years old. He has his coffin in his house ready. He shows it to his friends, and tells them proudly that it is a pres- ent from his sons. This is not an unusual thing in China. There is no way in which children can better show their love and regard for their parents than in presenting them with a suitable coffin. The feast was fit for a king. The viands were the best the market afforded. The cooking and the service were admirable. One thing was lacking. There were no ladies present. This, too, was in ac- cordance with Chinese notions of propriety. The women of the mission were not invited. The women of the household ate their food in their own apartments. After the feast we had a service in the chapel. We spent the next forenoon with the workers, and saw and heard much of the work. The fame thereof has gone 10 146 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE out through that whole region. People come from distant towns and villages for medicine for their diseases. We learned some things of special interest. At first the workers could not go out on the streets, or go out on a preaching tour lest some of “the baser sort” should attempt to fire their home. They have no fear on that score now. The presence of a woman is a great help. Men can come and go like birds of passage ; women come to make a home. The same is true of a child. The people gathered to see Mabel Hunt. They had seen “men devils” and “women devils,” but they had never seen a “baby devil.” Her parents were urged not to go to Chu Cheo. Mabel was a better protection than a battery of artillery. The Chinese said, “The gods must love these people, or they would not give them such a beautiful child.” The officials heard of Mabel’s birthday and made a great feast in honor of the occasion. Mr. Hunt talked to the magistrate and his assistants about the Christian religion. Mrs. Hunt presented the great lady with a copy of the New Testament. A house is now in course of erection. The ground was secured on a promise that it should be only one story high. The Confucian temple near by is a low building. It must not be overshadowed. After dinner we started for Lu Hoh. We spent the night in an inn about one-third of the way. It was market-day and the village was thronged. We had some difficulty in finding a place to sleep. We were packed into a small storeroom. Men and donkeys filled all the space without. At one table some men gambled all night. They began before our arrival, and continued after our departure. In the evening we visited a tea-house and had a service. The vil- lagers crowded about us to see and hear. They climbed upon the tables and wherever there was a place to stand. Mothers held up their babes that they might catch a glimpse of us. They listened attentively to what we had to say. On the way back we went to an opium den. We saw twenty smoking. It was a pathetic sight. We reached Lu Hoh the next afternoon. This is a solid business town. Many Mohammedans live here. They are bigoted and self- satisfied. They say they worship the true God, and are not idola- tors. They refrain from pork and from things strangled. We went out on the streets and visited several temples and stores. In the evening the chapel filled. Mr. Saw, Mr. Hearnden and I spoke. We prayed and sang as well. Mr. and Mrs. Saw did much good work here and made many friends. Several have told him that they believe, and will soon make the good confession. When they left on their furlough the enemies of the truth said that his Empe- ror had taken away his button. When Mr. Arnold left for Wuhu, CUU CHEO AND LU HOH 147 some time before, they said that his Emperor was going to take his head off. They look upon missionaries as political agents of some foreign power. Mr. Saw is never weary in well doing. He preaches wherever there is a man to hear. He is a delightful traveling companion. The next day Mr. Saw and I left for Nankin. Mr. Hearnden returned to Chu Cheo. We reached the Drum Tower that, evening. We were gone a week on this tour. That day we stopped at a tea- house for breakfast. At a table near us was a school-teacher. He gravely assured us that the Japanese were whipped in the war, and all present confirmed his assertion. He told us that the Black Flags wrere bound to succeed in Formosa. They had already sur- rendered. To him all foreigners are alike. He understands the Chinese characters and classics, but nothing else. He knows no more than an infant of general history, or mathematics, or philoso- phy, or science. He w7ears immense goggles to make him look wise and dignified. One of this class explained to one of our men the cause of night: “The people live inside the earth. The darkness is caused by the two hemispheres coming together and shutting out the sunlight.” We asked him about sin. He indignantly denied that Chinese sin. That is for outside barbarians. Mr. Saw quoted Confucius against him. He said Confucius lied to teach his follow- ers a truth. On the way we wanted to take the picture of a buffalo plowing. The men in the field objected. A gatling gun wrould not have scared them more than a kodak. They were afraid we might take something out of them or put something into them. On almost every farm were shrines to the earth-god. We must have seen thousands of these that week. The ignorance and poverty of the people are indescribable. These two evils are caused by bad government. Give the Chinese the Gospel and free schools, good roads, railways, convenient mar- kets, modern farming implements, flouring mills, and they will be one of the greatest nations on the globe. They have vast resources, but they are not developed. They are taxed and oppressed to sup- port a horde of corrupt officials. The mandarins are greedy cor- morants. Once a woman went to a Chinese sage and told him that her husband and tw7o sons had been devoured by tigers. He asked her why she did not go to some other place. She said that, though the tigers were numerous, the government was not oppressive. He turned to his hearers and emphasized the thought that bad govern- ment is woi’se than tigers. Give China a good government and her peace will be as a river, and her righteousness as the waves of the sea. XXIII. HANKOW, WUHU, NANKIN AND SHANGHAI. In order to see the work in different parts of China, I went up the Yangtsze as far as Hankow. This city is at the junction of the Han and Yangtsze, and is six hundred miles from the coast. Directly across the Yangtsze is Wuchang, while across the Han is Hanyang. These three cities have a combined population of nearly two millions. Hankow is a Treaty Port and .a great center for trade. The bulk of tea exported is shipped from this point. Wuchang is the seat of the provincial government. Here the lit- erary and military examinations are held. Hanyang is the seat of the iron industry. Here cannon, steel rails and railway supplies of all kinds are produced. Millions of dollars have been invested in this plant. These cities are annually visited by thousands of officials, students, traders, mechanics and laborers, and so are brought within the reach of the Gospel. At the great examina- tions systematic efforts are made to reach every one of the twenty or thirty thousand who come to compete for degrees. Many of these carry some of the seeds of truth to their homes. It is plain that this is one of the most promising places for missionary enter- prise in China. Hankow is the home of a number of men of ability and experi- ence. The first one I met was Mr. Arnold Foster, a graduate of Cambridge. Though he works in connection with the London Society, he is entirely self-supporting. He has been in China twenty-four years. He teaches and preaches every day. He and his accomplished wife have a school for Eurasian girls in their own home. The girls are members of the family, and are treated in all respects as if they were their own children. They are quick to learn and easily managed. This school is a source of usefulness and joy. Mr. Foster said: “People say China does not move, but China does move. Quite true, she does not move as Western nations do, but she does move, nevertheless.” He has seen great changes in his own time. He has no fear and no doubt as to the final issue of the conflict between light and darkness. Dr. Griffith John works in connection with the same Society. He has been in 148 HANKOW, WUHU, NANKIN AND SHANGHAI 149 the field over forty years. Dr. John is one of the great men of the age. He is known and honored by every missionary in the Empire. He has translated the New Testament, and published it with explanatory notes. His tracts have been sold by the million. In addition to his literary work he preaches every day. He has bap- tized three thousand. In a recent address Dr. John said he was full of confidence with respect to the future. He expected to see great things, and a forward movement, as a result of this fresh upheaval in China. It would doubtless open the country in a won- derful way, and, better still, would open the eyes and hearts of the people. “The missionary cause was making rapid progress. It had taken the first thirty-five years of Protestant missions in China to build up a church of six members, while the last thirty-five years had built up a church of about 60,000 members. Let us all take courage and go forward.” J. A. Ingle represents the Protestant Episcopal Church of America. He is from Maryland; Mrs. Ingle is from South Caro- lina. They could not have been kinder and more helpful if they had been life-long acquaintances and friends. Mr. Ingle gave some account of the methods of work adopted and the results. The Society which he represents has a school for boys and a hospital in Hankow, and a college and a hospital in Wuchang. He has no street chapel where the Gospel is preached to promiscuous audi- ences. Instead, he has a guest room. A sign at the door invites all to enter who wish to inquire concerning the Christian religion. Tea and the water-pipe are served in accordance with Chinese notions of hospitality. Speaking of the converts, Mr. Ingle said that he found more comfort in the First Epistle to the Corinthians than in any other part of the Bible. Paul wrote to his converts that they were washed, and sanctified, and justified in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ, and in the Spirit of our God; but they were not just men made perfect. Who is there in the home land that has not felt the same? Converts in every age and in every field are substantially the same. The Protestant Episcopal Society has noble buildings. The chapels, colleges, hospitals, schools and homes are convenient and beautiful. No money is spared. These buildings are excelled by those of the Roman Catholics only. David Hill is a man of private fortune, laboring in connection with the English Wesleyan Society. He has been on the field thirty years. He and his brother support a dozen laymen in China. Mr. Hill dresses like a native, and lives on five cents a day. He has a tough constitution, else he would have died long ago. Few 150 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE men can live as he has lived. He is superintendent of the work in and about Hankow. He makes long preaching tours into the coun- try. Speaking of methods, he said: “After all, it is the man, rather than the method. Dr. John adopts one method, and makes a brilliant success. Dr. Nevius adopts a different method, and his success is equally great.” The Wesleyan Society has a high school in Wuchang. The boys pay fees and pay for their food. These boys are under religious instruction every day. English is taught as a pacificatory measure. The Society has a hospital as well. The evangelistic, the educational, and the medical melt and blend into one another, and together present a complete revelation of the fullness, the symmetry and the perfection of the redemption that is in Christ. Year by year Mr. Hill’s conviction that the work is to go on and prevail is strengthened. At the headquarters of the American Baptists we met Dr. Adams. He has been in China twenty years, and in Hankow two. He gave one incident showing how God overrules events to the fur- therance of the Gospel. Years ago, in another province, the mem- bers of one of the churches under his care were urged to visit a neighboring village and preach. The villagers gambled and drank, and did not want them or their message. They beat the believers and drove them away. The more they were beaten and threatened, the more they returned and preached. The villagers killed their cattle and poisoned their wells. These things did not stop them. Then they threatened to kill them and burn their property. They got an astrologer to fix upon a lucky time. Hearing of their pur- pose, Mr. Adams went to the magistrate and asked him for protec- tion. He said: “Let them alone; there are rich men in that vil- lage, and I will make them pay dearly for any riot.” Mr. Adams told him that that was not what he wanted; he wanted protection for the innocent whose lives and goods were in peril. The magis- trate informed him that it was his duty to punish crime, not to pre- vent it. The villagers heard that the magistrate would not inter- fere, and proceeded with their preparation. The Christians put their cattle in one house and gathered in another for prayer and praise. Other churches hearing of their danger united in prayer on their behalf. Mr. Adams wanted to stay with them and share their fate. The Christians would not hear to this. They said his pres- ence would only aggravate the villagers. The assailants gathered for a night attack. They marched with lanterns and gongs and shouting. The ruffians of other villages joined the procession. Beaching the village they found the houses vacant, and supposed HANKOW, WUHU, NANKIN AND SHANGHAI 151 that the people had fled. Just then they heard them singing, and drew near to listen. At the close of a song an aged man lifted up his voice in prayer. As they listened, a furious thunderstorm broke upon them, and they were scattered as chaff before the whirlwind. They ran in all directions. Some fell into creeks and ponds and were drowned. When they went to the astrologer he said: “ This fellow Adams has lightnings bottled up, and can let them go when he pleases.” He advised them to go by day the next time. They planned another attack and started. On the way they sat down to arrange the division of the spoils. One wanted a cer- tain cow. His brother wanted the same animal. Each caught the other by the tail, and a general fight began. One man was killed. One had his head and another his leg broken. When the fight was over no one cared to go on with the attack on the believers. The magistrate cut off several heads, and made others pay fines of sev- eral thousand dollars. The villagers said: “It is no use to fight against these people.” The Christians rented a house in that vil- lage, and soon a church was organized. John Archibald is the agent of the National Bible Society of Scotland in Hankow. In the eighteen years he has been in China he has traveled all over the Empire. He was the first foreigner to visit many places where now there are flourishing churches. Some- times he has been guarded by five hundred soldiers. The society whose agent he is publishes about three hundred thousand copies of the Scriptures annually. He told us that there are three stages in Bible work. First, all want it. Second, no one wants it. Third, a few want it. This last stage is the hopeful one. Mr. Archibald showed us some of the famous Hunan pictures. The artist represents Christ as a pig. The Romans represented him as an ass. He told us that the Yangtsze Valley is the most trying place on the globe. If one gets sick he must get out at once, other- wise he will die. The mercury stands at ninety-eight or one hun- dred degrees during the day. At night it falls a degree or two. Mosquitoes get too languid to bite. People must sleep under punkahs or not sleep at all. New arrivals will not take advice. They know more than the veterans. They propose to show them a more excellent way. As a result, many get sick and go home or die. He says that it does not pay to live below a certain standard. To do so is almost sure to impair health, to diminish usefulness and to shorten life. He spoke of some who live on native food and go mooning about and accomplish nothing. Speaking of the riots, he told of one man who disregarded his principles and ran 152 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE away. When called to account, he said he would rather ignore his principles one day than be dead all the rest of his life. John Archibald is as genial a spirit as ever left Scotland. A stranger in Hankow could not fall into better hands. He and his good wife open their hearts and their home. The only complaint they make is that their visitor does not stay long enough. Dropping down from Hankow we stopped at Wuhu. Though it was near midnight, T. J. Arnold was waiting for me, and took me to the home of C. E. Molland. As the day had been unusually cold and stormy, the warm welcome and bright fire were doubly pleas- ant. A union service had been arrauged for Sunday morning. All the missions in the city were l’epresented. The room was full. The audience was orderly and attentive. Mr. Molland acted as my interpreter. In the afternoon there was an English service in the Home of the International Missionary Alliance. The gunboats and the Customs were represented. The Alliance has ninety workei’s in China, and sixteen more on the way. Of these forty-five are beyond the Great Wall in Mongolia. The missionaries are from Sweden, Norway, England and America. D. W. Le Lacheur is the superintendent of the work in the Empire. This Home is also a school. The new workers spend six months or more here on the language. At night there was another service in English. Dr. Jellison, of the Methodist Episcopal Hospital, dropped in on his way home, and spent a pleasant hour with us. Wuhu is a walled city and an open port. It has a population of one hundred thousand. Leaving Wuhu in company with Messrs. Molland and Arnold, I returned to Nankin for a conference with all the missionaries. James Ware came from Shanghai and E. P. Hearnden came over from Chu Cheo. A whole day was devoted to this conference. Many important facts were brought out bearing upon the health of the workers, the needs of the work, and the best disposition of the force. Dr. Macklin pointed out the danger of sunstroke, the dan- ger of attempting too much and neglecting proper exercise, and the need of good food. The climate is hostile to foreigners. Some are better in China than at home. This is not true of many. Houses are needed for several families. More workers are needed to enter the doors which God is opening. As we had time, we vis- ited the other missions in Nankin. Dr. Beebe took us through the hospital under his direction. President Ferguson took us through the buildings of the Nankin University. A Pennsylvania lumber dealer paid for one building. It is his ambition to spend a million Miss Dr. Daisy Macklin, Nankin. W. P. Bentley and Family, Shanghai, China. HANKOW, WUHU, NANKIN AND SHANGHAI 153 dollars in support of Foreign Missions. Another building was erected by the family of Philander Smith. This family paid for Dr. Beebe’s Hospital, and for another building in Japan. We called at the Presbyterian and at the Friends’ Mission. We saw all the workers and some of their work. The evening before I left Nankin the ladies arranged for a reception. All the missionaries in the city were present. Brief addresses were made by Mr. Williams, Dr. Beebe and Mr. Houston. After the addresses, refreshments were served. It was like a family gathering. All agreed that it was one of the most agreeable evenings ever spent in Nankin. The next morning I bade farewell and started for Shanghai. Most of the workers accompanied me to the ship. It was a great privilege to spend a few days in the homes and to look into the hearts and study the methods of these saintly workers. It would be a good thing if some one could come out every few years. It would do one’s own heart good for many a day to see the joy of the mission- aries. His coming will give a new impulse to the work and will bless his own soul. I left Nankin with a high opinion of the wis- dom, energy and consecration of the workers. The Lord’s cause cannot fail in such hands. In Shanghai I met Mr. Ferguson, of Tibet. He came from Tibet to Hankow, a distance of fifteen hundred miles, on horseback. He asked for an escort while traveling through the province where the Mohammedans are now in rebellion. The authorities could give him no escort. They told him he could not go. He said he must go. For six days he had only one meal. Some soldiers called his companion a Foreign Devil. He dismounted and seized one of them by the tail. The others fled like sheep. Mr. Ferguson is a Cana- dian by birth. He is a member of the church in Muncie, Ind., for which H. T. Buff preaches. He is supported by some friends in Canada and in the United States. From Shanghai I go to Peking. Mr. Williams goes with me as interpreter and guide. This trip reminds me of the time when we were students together in old Bethany’s classic halls. XXIV. PEKING AND THE GREAT WALL AND RETURN. We took ship at Shanghai for Tientsin. This is the port of Peking. There were four missionary families on board. Some had been home and were returning, others were coming out for the first time. The rules say that passengers are uot allowed to go bare backed, or to dress their hair, or smoke opium, or spit on the floor, or talk loudly in the salon. With such specific instructions it need not surprise any one that we behaved fairly well. Our course was through the Yellow Sea, the Gulf of Pechele and the Peiho. We passed between the Promontory of Shantung and Korea. The province of Shantung was the home of Confucius and Mencius. These men, more than any others, have shaped the Chinese char- acter. In every city in the Empire there is a Confucian temple. In every school there is a tablet to Confucius before which the pupils bow on entering. One of their poets has said : “Confucius ! Confucius ! how great is Confucius ! Before Confucius there never was a Confucius ! Since Confucius there never has been a Confucius ! Confucius ! Confucius ! how great is Confucius 1” Shantung is the scene of some of the most successful work in China. Here Drs. Nevius and Corbett and Timothy Richard and others labored for years. Here new methods were adopted. The converts were encouraged to support themselves and not to look abroad for any financial aid. Some of these converts migrated to Shanse. They called the village they built the Gospel Village. It was a time of famine. It was difficult to put up houses for them- selves. Remembering the teaching they received, they built a chapel and held services. We passed Port Arthur and Wei-hai- wei. These places became famous in the war with Japan. We passed the Taku forts at the mouth of the Peiho. These were captured by the British and French in the second Opium War. As the water on the bar was low we left the ship and went by train to Tientsin. This was a thrilling experience. Think of it! A train in China! After riding on donkeys and mules and wheelbarrows, it was refreshing to buy a ticket and board a train. When the 154 PEKING AND TEE GREAT WALL AND RETURN 155 engine rolled up to the station I took off my hat. The train is European. The filth and stenches are indigenous. We reached our hotel after dark. Mr. Stanley, of the Amer- ican Board, helped us to engage a cart to take us on in the morn- ing. We were off at daylight. The cart was drawn by two mules, driven tandem. The body of the cart was about two feet wide and four feet long, and was covered with blue cloth. One sat inside, the other sat on the shafts. There were no springs to break the jolting. The roads were rough and full of holes. They became worse as we drew near to the capital. Peking is eighty miles distant. We were told that it would take two and a half days to make the trip. Robbers abound, and it is perilous to travel after dark or before day. When we were beyond the wall of Tientsin, Mr. Williams told the driver he would give him a dollar extra if he would reach Peking in two days. The effect was magical. The mules and cai’t felt the inspiration. We passed every vehicle in sight. The first day we made more than half the distance. A little after midnight the driver was knocking at our door and telling us that it was time to start. We growled and protested, but it was of no use. All fear of robbers had van- ished. At once we left the inn. Bad as the roads were, we sped on. We made fifteen miles before breakfast. A little after noon we saw the walls of Peking. By three o’clock we were at our jouimey’s end. The driver was as proud as if he had won a battle. Dr. Lowry met us aud took us to his own home. He and his family did all in their power to make our visit enjoyable. They are Ohio people, and represent the Methodist Episcopal Church. Dr. Lowry is President of the Peking University. One son has charge of the hospital and dispensary. Another is Secretary of the American Legation. We visited the University. In the literary department there are one hundred and forty students. Most of these are believers. The Girls’ School has nearly as many enrolled. The Medical School is well attended. The first morning at chapel the boys sang, “King Jesus, reign for evermore.” That was in sight of the Emperor’s palace. This mission has a strong staff. The workers go out into the towns aud villages for hundreds of miles. The work was opened in 1868. Last year the conversions numbered eleven hundred. One of the most inter- esting events on Sunday was the Ragged Sunday School. There were four hundred present. Dr. Lowry is superintendent. The teaching is done by the advanced students in the university. It was a treat to hear them sing. Their singing was wholly unlike 15C A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE the caterwauling that is called music in China. This school has changed the character of the community. Instead of calling the missionaries “foreign devils,” they ask when Sunday and Christmas are coming. At the union meeting Mr. Williams and I were asked to conduct the services. We met Timothy Richard. He is one of the noted men in China. He and Dr. Wherry presented a memorial to the throne the day before our arrival. They want the Emperor and his advisers to understand the aims and motives of the missionaries. They want to convince them that the missionaries are good men, and that the evil reports published about them are false. They ask that Christianity be placed upon the same plane as other faiths. The officials who are anti-foreign ai’e so either on account of ignorance, or because they foresee that the triumph of the Gos- pel means an era of honesty and efficiency, and an end of squeezing and robbery and oppression. Mr. Richard is seeking to open the eyes of the rulers of China. He is better qualified for this work than any other man in the Empire. He has been decorated by the Emperor for his services in the time of famine. He is the personal friend of several of the highest ministers. The Emperor is reading his translation of McKenzie’s “ History of the Nineteenth Century.” The Prime Minister asked him to point out the reforms which are needed. He has been assured by several members of the Emperor’s Council that they are in fullest sym- pathy with him. A club of young men has been formed. They are pledged to seek reforms. They publish a paper, and hope to reach every official in China. An amusing thing occuiTed while the memorial was under discussion. Dr. Wherry and a member of the Council had a lively tilt over the question of original sin. Confucius taught that men at birth are by nature good. Calvin taught that they are totally depraved. Gilbert Reid is engaged in the' same kind of work. He dresses and lives in Chinese style. He aims to reach the official class in hope of being able to teach them the truth. He visits them and they visit him. While all do not receive him, he says his success is ten times as great as he expected. He reaches new men every week. Mr. Richard thinks this a most interesting period in Chinese history. The Japanese war has revealed a condition of affairs that surprised and shocked the officials. They do not know what to do. They are willing to be taught. We visited the workers of the American and Pi'esbyterian Boards, and met the men connected with the London Society. We PEKING AND THE GREAT WALL AND RETURN 157 were told that there are one thousand believers in Peking and four thousand in the region round about. Mr. Ament took us to see Mr. Murray’s School for the Blind. The founder of this school was born near Glasgow. While a lad he lost his left arm. He became a letter carrier. Part of every day he studied Hebrew and Greek. He wanted to engage in some form of mission work. He was engaged as a colporteur by the Bible Society. In the summer he sold Bibles in the highlands; in the winter he worked among the sailors on the Clyde. His success was wonderful. The society wanted a man for China, and William Murray was sent. He has sold one hundred thousand copies of the “Classic of Jesus” in Chihli and Manchuria. He became interested in the blind by see- ing them go about in winter in Peking. He spent eight years in trying to adapt a system to the language of China. He gathered in one or two and tested his system. In two months one was able to read fluently. Another was able to read in six weeks. It seems miraculous to the Chinese that the blind should be thus cared for and endowed with what, to them, are supernatural powers. Some are being trained as evangelists and others as Bible readers. God’s promise is being fulfilled: “ I will bring the blind by away that they have not known; I will make darkness light, and crooked things straight.” Peking has a population of one million three hundred thousand. The walls are high and in good repair. There are two cities, one Chinese and the other Tartar. Within the Tartar City is the Impe- rial City, and within that, the Forbidden City. The streets are wide, but are unpaved. In dry weather one is in danger of being blinded by the dust. In the wet season one is in danger of being drowned in the pools or in the streams that rush along the thor- oughfares. There is an air of decay everywhere. It extends to the palaces and temples. Peking is the filthiest city in the world. When the Son of Heaven goes out it is in a closed chair. The streets are hidden from his sight. If he would get out and walk he would see what a sty his capital is. On one of the streets we saw a dead beggar. He had been stripped of the few rags he wore. No one seemed concerned. In the temples and other places we found the guardians rude and inhospitable. Doors were closed and locked as we approached. Exorbitant fees were demanded before they would be opened. Everywhere else in China the priests were glad to see us and to show us everything. We found it difficult to get into the Hanlin Academy. There was little to see, but the gateman did not want to admit us at all. It would have been a pleasure to 158 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE see the Emperor, but he did not call or even send his card. That reminds me of an incident in the life of Pestalozzi. He and sev- eral others were sent to see Napoleon on some educational business. Napoleon turned them over to some of his subordinates. On his return his friend said: “Did you see Napoleon?” The great teacher said, “No, and Napoleon did not see me.” Perhaps the Son of Heaven was busy with his wife and numerous sweethearts, or was trying to borrow money to pay the little bill he owes Japan. Dr. Lowry took us to see the astronomical instruments made by the Jesuits in the seventeenth century. They are used no longer, but they are worth seeing. These Jesuits were able men. One of them cast three hundred cannon for the Emperor. He gave to each the name of a female saint. From Peking we went on to the Great Wall. The builder of this wall smashed the feudal system of China, and became Emperor in fact as well as in name. He called himself “ The First Emperor.” Not only so, but he burned the books that disproved this claim and cut the throats of the literati, lest they should reproduce the books. He built the Great Wall to protect the Empire against the northern tribes. It was a colossal undertaking. It took a million of men ten years to complete it. It is one thousand five hundred and fifty miles in length. The height is regulated by the ground over which it runs. There are high watch-towers from which an army could be seen approaching. These towers were once manned; now they are deserted. Towers and gates and wall are tumbling into ruins. No repairs are made. The wall served its purpose, but it is useless now. The Mongols and Manchus crossed it and possessed them- selves of the Empire. Dr. Martin says that there is no man in Chinese history so execrated as the Emperor that built the Great Wall. He is remembered as the Builder, Burner and Butcher, rather than as the Founder of the Empire. The scholars charge him with seeking to reduce the people to ignorance that he might govern them with facility, in accordance with the maxims of Laotze — “Fill their bellies and empty their heads.” The wall is forty-five miles distant from Peking. The road for most of the way runs over a sandy plain. The country is poor and the popula- tion sparse. In the hotels we could get neither rice nor meat. Had we not taken some food with us we should have fared badly. The rooms were cold, and had no way of warming them. The poorer the fare the higher the price. We paid four or five times as much for what we got as we would have had to pay for better accommo- dation in the South. No matter. The wall repaid us for all our PEKING AND THE GREAT WALL AND RETURN 159 discomfort. It was a great sight. It is one that can never be for- gotten. It is something to look upon a work that dates back two centuries before the birth of Christ. On the way back we saw the Ming Tombs. With one exception, all the Emperors of the last dynasty were buried here. The tombs were magnificent pieces of work in their time. They are from three to five hundred years old. They are neglected and are falling into decay. We were gone three days. One night we slept in a Methodist chapel. The evangelist in charge took us in and sup- plied our needs. He would not accept anything for his services. The Lord grant that he may find mercy in that day. The next morning we were on our way to Tientsin. We spent a few hours in Tung-cho. The American Board has been at work here for thirty years. Dr. Sheffield showed us through the North China College. There are seventy-five students enrolled. Dr. Sheffield had been attacked some months before and left for dead. There were thirty-two wounds in all. Of these thirteen were on his head. Being a man of robust constitution and good health, and having good attendance, he got well. He can say with Paul, “I bear in my body the marks of the Lord Jesus.” Tung-cho is the point at which goods sent up the Grand Canal are reshipped for Peking. They are carried from this place on wheelbarrows and on camels and on mules. The wheelbarrows frequently have three horses or donkeys pulling them and three or four men steadying them. Great caravans of camels are met. These carry about six hundred pounds and make about three miles an hour. On our way to the Great Wall we met thousands of these great animals. They were carrying tea and other goods to Siberia and Mongolia and coals from the mines to Peking. One train would carry more than all we saw. From Tung-cho we went by boat to Tientsin. We were thirty- six hours on the way. Mr. and Mrs. Stanley had invited us to abide with them. No one could have wished for more pleasant entertain- ment. Tientsin has a population of nine hundred and fifty thou- sand. It was here that the treaty was framed at the close of the second war with England. The treaty provides for the protection of all persons teaching or professing Christianity. So long as they do not offend against the laws they are not to be persecuted or interfered with. Here Li Hung Chang built a hospital for Dr. McKenzie. Here Lady Li established a school in which girls should be educated. McKenzie was a rare man. His influence was bound- less. He was decorated by the Emperor. He received the star of 160 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE the Order of the Double Dragon. The Viceroy behaved badly after McKenzie’s death. He built a hospital across the way and opened a medical school. He demanded that the money he had given for the work be refunded. We visited the hospital. Many things in it reminded us of the gifted man under whose auspices it was built. His aspiration could be expressed in the following lines: “O God, that I could spend my life for others, With no false aims of my own; That I could pour my soul into my brothers, And live for them alone.” After his death Dr. Fred. C. Roberts took up the work. He was equally brilliant, and almost equally distinguished. After six years of service he went to his reward. The thought of his heart was: “I ask no heaven till earth be Thine, Nor glory crown while work of mine Remaineth here, when earth shall shine Among the stars, her stains wiped out, her captives free, Her songs sweet music unto Thee — For crown, give, Lord, new work for me.” Dr. Smith is now in charge. He is a modest and genial Scotch- man. He is a worthy successor of the saintly men who have pre- ceded him in that high office. We called on Dr. King. As Dr. Howard, she was associated with Dr. McKenzie in the treatment of Lady Li. On the boat from Tientsin to Shanghai a mandarin and his ser- vants occupied all the cabins but one. One servant filled his pipe and kept it lighted. One supplied him with a wet rag with which to wipe his face and fingers after eating. One furnished him with a piece of brown paper when he wanted to blow his nose. When he ate he threw the bones under the table. When he drank soup he could be heard across a ten-acre field. In this way he showed that he relished it. At Shanghai there were a score of mandarins to meet him and to do him honor. This man represents the worst class of men in China. They stand in the way of all progress. They are the conservatives of the conservatives. We went as usual to the hos- pitable home of Mr. and Mrs. Ware, and were cordially welcomed, as usual. MISSION BUILDINGS IN NANKIN, CHINA. XXV. FROM SHANGHAI TO HONG-KONG AND CANTON. Before leaving Shanghai, I called on Dr. Y. J. Allen. He is a veteran missionary and a remarkably interesting man. He has been an evangelist, teacher and editor. He aided the government during the Taiping Rebellion and received a “button” in recognition of his services. He is now engaged in literary work. He founded and still edits The Review of the Times. This is the most widely read magazine in China. The officials not only read it, but buy it in quantities and distribute it among their friends. Dr. Allen tells the Chinese that he has a right to speak. He is not a wayfaring man spending a week or a month among them; he has spent most of his years in China; all his interests are here. He speaks as one having authority, and he is heard. Since the war with Japan, the government has been asking, “ What must we do to be saved?” The Mandarins are at sea; they have no answer. Most of them are fatalists. These say that noth- ing can be done. Dr. Allen has undertaken to answer that ques- tion. He is telling the officials that they must accept the new order of things, and do it ungrudgingly and cheerfully. The foreigners are here to stay. They are too strong to be driven out, and too influential to be ignored. China needs to get rid at once and for- ever of her old notions of exclusiveness and fancied superiority. The nations she contemptuously styles “ barbarians ” are her peers, and more. Plato thanked the gods that he was born a man and not a brute; a Greek, and not a barbarian. This is the feeling of the Chinese. One of them felicitated himself that he was not born across the seas, where the people are ignorant of the domestic rela- tions, clothe themselves with leaves, eat wood, dwell in the wilder- ness, and live in holes in the earth. Being born in the Middle Kingdom, 'he has infinite blessings and the highest felicity. China can never go back to her old civilization. Whether she likes it or not, she must take her place among the nations of the earth. The next thing China needs is truth. It is the truth that makes men free from [error and superstition. The officials do not know their duty. It is not enough that they do no wrong; they do wrong when 11 161 162 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE they do nothing. In the recent plague in Canton, officers were con- tinually going to the temples to entreat the idols to stop the disease. Day and night were made hideous by the cries of the people, the beating of drums and gongs, and the burning of fire crackers. In time of famine, millions die before food can reach them. If the rulers would adopt sanitary measures and build railroads, these things would be at an end. China needs the Gospel. Look all around the world. Wherever you see progress, you see that it can be traced to the Gospel as its root. This is true of Europe, Amer- ica, Australia, and Japan. Persia and Turkey are dead. Were it not for international jealousies they would perish in a day. China can not keep out the Gospel. She ought not to try. It is her only hope. Dr. Allen is telling the Chinese that they must be born again. The acceptance of the Gospel means the regeneration of her whole national life, sweeping reforms in the army and navy, the reconstruction of the executive and the purification of the civil service. Dr. Allen is the friend of China. He wants her to be strong and rich and wise and holy. I took passage for Hong-Kong in the “ Empress of Japan.” The first missionary work in the Empire was done in the South, because the South was first opened. On our way we passed several cities in which much good work has been done. Foochow is a city with a population of six hundred thousand. It is the center of a populous district. Moule says that the workers toiled and prayed there for eleven years without a single convert, and when he wrote there were eight thousand. The number now, so Dr. Gregory tells me, is ten thousand. Bishop Walden has been there holding the annual conference. He speaks in high praise of the eighty native preachers, and of the work generally. One Chinese Christian gave $10,000 toward the educational work in Foochow. Not far away is Hangchow. Here the Church Missionary Society has built a large hospital. One man gave $360,000 for the building and the endow- ment. Dr. Main says, with the Gospel and steel as weapons, we fight sin and sickness. Farther south are Amoy and Swatow. In these cities the English Presbyterians, the American Baptists, the Reformed Church, and perhaps others, are at work. Dr. Lyall, of Swatow, was on the “ Empress.” He has charge of the medical work. He told me that the out-patients number from one to two hundred per day. These cities are the centers of the work. The missionaries and the Chinese evangelists go into the interior for hundreds of miles and carry on the work. The rivers and canals of China make this possible. The house boats draw little water. FROM SHANGHAI TO HONG-EONG AND CANTON 163 Some one said they go on “ a heavy dew.” Formosa was to our left. Here Drs. McKay and Barclay have done great good. Hong-Ivong lies within the tropics. Since 1842 it has been a British colony. Before that time it had no commerce. It was the site of a village peopled by a few fishermen. Now it is one of the great ports of the world. The island of Hong-Ivong has an area of thirty squares miles. It is mostly a mountain. The population numbers 250,000. Ships from all parts of the globe ride at anchor in the harbor. Hong-Ivong is the most cosmopolitan place I have yet seen. One sees more varieties of people and more strange headdresses on the streets than even in Shanghai. Being a Brit- ish colony, several regiments are here. Mr. Musson, one of the chaplains, asked me to make his house my home. He took pains to show me the points of interest in the city, and particularly the missionary work. The English are good colonizers. They build roads that will endure as long as those built by the Romans. The Chinese say their roads are good for ten years, and bad for ten thousand years. The English build for the ages. Wherever England establishes herself, she rules in righteousness. As a result the people prosper. English possessions are open to all races and all creeds. The London Society has two hospitals in Hong- Ivong. Each was built by one man and handed over to the mission. One was built by a Chinese. He had been educated in England and married a rich English wife. She died soon after their marriage. He built this hospital as her memorial. Afterward he went back to his old ways, and now has five or six beauties in his harem. The two hospitals have accommodations for one hundred in-patients. The out-patients number twenty thousand a year. Dr. J. C. Johnson showed me through both. I met Dr. Chalmers. He is a famous Sinologue. He has been in China forty-three years. He told me that he has charge of thirty schools. The Government gives them grants in aid. These grants are sufficient to pay all the expenses of the school. The Wesleyan, the Basle, the Rhenish Societies are also at work in Hong-Ivong. Macao is thirty-five miles distant; Canton is ninety-five miles. Morrison, the first Protestant missionary to China, did his work at these two places. Macao is now a Portuguese possession. Its bus- iness and its glory have departed. It is a pretty place, with some scenes of historic interest. The chief of these is Morrison’s grave. Canton is on the Pearl River. The approaches to the city were guarded by forts that were considered by the Chinese impregnable. The British gunboats easily silenced their guns and passed on. 164 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE Canton was ransomed by the payment of $6,000,000. This is the most prosperous city I have seen in China. The buildings are substantial. The streets are about six feet wide. Coolies go along carrying chairs or loads, and though the streets are full of people, there is no collision. Canton is the silk market of China. This is the source of its wealth. The people must be very relig- ious. Before every shop or store is a place where incense is burned night and morning. The temples are full of idols, and are in good condition. In one I saw Marco Polo among the gods, and incense burning before him. Canton is the only place in China where I saw dogs and rats for sale as food. Old ladies eat rats as hair restoratives. These animals are not used in this way as much as is commonly supposed. The boating population is a curiosity. It numbers three hundred and fifty thousand. People are born, mar- ried, live and die on boats. They cook and eat and wash their clothes and worship the gods on the water. They have no other home. Some are owned and managed by women. On one boat I counted four generations, and not a man in the lot. These mer- maids handle the sail or oar or rudder as skillfully as men. Dr. Swan, whose guest I was while in Canton, showed me through the hospital. Dr. Peter Parker opened a work here sixty years ago. Dr. Happer reached Canton in 1844. For a time he stood almost alone. He endured hardships and confronted difficulties such as now few men can appreciate. Drs. Kerr and Swan are now in charge of the hospital. Dr. Kerr has been here for forty-two years. He is one of the most eminent surgeons living. He told me that forty thousand in-patients and hundreds of thousands of out- patients have been under his care since his service began. Each year the in-patients number one thousand two hundred, and the out- patients forty thousand. There are thirty-one men and women connected with the mission of the Presbyterian Church in this dis- trict. There are four stations and thirty-two out-stations. The school for girls has one hundred and sixty-five enrolled. The col- lege is across the river. It has eighty students. Fourteen of these are studying for the ministry. Mr. Beattie of this mission took me to many places of interest. One of these was a Buddhist temple. We heard the priests chant for nearly an hour. I called at the mis- sion of the Southern Baptists. Dr. Graves was teaching a class of thirty theological students. He said to me that they prepare men to preach, and leave the Lord to call them. I visited the Berlin mission. Mr. Ivollecker explained that most of their woi'k was educational. There are ten day schools and one theological semi- FOUR GENERATIONS IN CHINA. BOYS’ SCHOOL IN CHU CHEO, CHINA. FROM SHANGHAI TO HONG KONG AND CANTON 165 nary connected with this mission. There are eight workers on the staff, and about eight hundred believers. I called at the Wes- leyan Compound and on the representatives of the American Board, but did not see their work. The Catholics have a large property and a majestic cathedral. The ground upon which it stands was once the property of the city. It is a constant source of irritation to the Chinese that it is not so yet. Most of the Catholic mission- aries in China are French Jesuits. The French Government stands behind them. Years ago all missionaries were called upon to leave China. Their property was confiscated. When the French made their treaty with China, they demanded that all such property should be returned to its Catholic owners. Centuries had elapsed since the confiscation. Most of the property was held by persons who had come into possession of it honestly. That made no differ- ence ; they were obliged to vacate. So it came to pass that what was once Government property reverted to the Catholics and they erected their cathedral upon it. For three years Canton was held and controlled by the British. These were three prosperous years. The people soon became reconciled to their new rulers. Taxes were collected and the money used honestly. This was a new experience in Chinese poli- tics. The salaries of the officials are small; they are expected to squeeze the people for much more than their stipulated allowance. Those who are best qualified to judge say that the service is cor- rupt and venal from bottom to top. One prominent Chinese said he thought he knew three honest officials in the Empire. The man- darins are supremely interested in perpetuating the existing mis- government. Unyielding resistance to change is their motto. They have a monopoly and want to keep it. The English are often supercilious and overbearing, but they are honest and capable, and people prosper wherever the administration is in their hands. It is their honesty that gives them their place and influence in all Oriental countries. There are many in Canton who wish the Brit- ish had retained permanent possession of their city. After two days spent in looking into the work, I returned to Hong-Ivong. XXVI. CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA. Tradition says that the Apostle Thomas preached the Gospel in China. This is possible, but not probable. So far as is known, the Nestorians were the first to send missionaries to the Chinese. Their watchword was, “ Christ for the whole world; and the whole world for Christ.” The time of their arrival cannot be ascertained. Williams thinks there are grounds for placing it as early as 505. The now famous Nestorian monument discovered in Shensi in 1625, was erected in 781. Some writers have denied or doubted the genuineness of this monument, but without sufficient reason. The inscription gives a summary of the Gospel and an account of its entrance into China and the patronage extended to it by various Emperors. It states that Olopun made his way from the West to China and translated a portion of the Bible. The Emperor investi- gated the new doctrine, was pleased with it, and said: “ Let it have free access throughout the Empire.” A monastery was built and the Emperor’s picture was painted in it. He gave orders that monasteries should be built in every prefecture in China. The new faith enjoying imperial patronage spread rapidly in the ten circuits into which the Empire was then divided. It continued to prosper till the Empress Wu usurped the throne. She was an ardent Buddhist, and persecuted Christianity during the twenty years of her reign. After her death the buildings which she caused to be destroyed were restored, and the number of missionaries was increased. Meanwhile Buddhism, which entered China in the first century of our era, was making progress. The two native faiths, Confu- cianism and Taoism, united against the two foreign religions. Buddhism and Nestorianism. They prevailed upon the Emperor to issue a decree suppressing all foreign religions. He commanded that the Buddhist monasteries be destroyed throughout the Empire, and that the monks and nuns all return to the ways of common life. Nestorianism shared the same fate. The Emperor said the men who taught it were to be required to resume the ways of ordinary life, and their unsubstantial teachings were to be no 166 CHRISTIANITY IX CHINA 167 more heard. Buddhism rallied and filled the Empire. Nestorian- ism received its death-blow. No doubt many of the converts proved faithful unto death. Many, so it is believed, were gathered into the churches planted later. John of Mount Corvin was the first Roman Catholic to enter China. He reached Peking in 1293, and was kindly received by the Emperor, Kublai Khan. He was made an archbishop, and had seven suffragan bishops under him. These were turbuleut times, and Catholicism did not make much progress. After the fall of the Mongol Empire direct overland connection with Europe was interrupted, and for about two hundred years China was almost completely isolated from the Western world. Francis Xavier attempted to gain an entrance for the Gospel, but died oil the coast in 1552. Matteo Ricci is justly regarded as the apostle of Roman Catholicism in China. He reached the Province of Canton in 1581. Soon after he made his way to the capital. He was favorably received by the Emperor on the throne. Ricci is described as a man of great scientific acquirements, of invincible perseverance, of various resources, and of winning manners, maintaining with all these gifts, a single eye to the conversion of China, and the bring- ing of people of all ranks to the faith of Christianity. Ricci is highly extolled by the Jesuits for his learniug, tact, skill and perse- verance. Another writer of the same church paints a different picture. “The kings found in him a man full of complaisance; the pagans a minister who accommodated himself to their super- stitions; the mandarins a pliant courtier skilled in all the trickery of courts; and the devil a faithful servant who, far from destroy- ing, established his reign among the heathen, and then extended it among the Christians.” Among the converts was an officer of high rank, a member of the celebrated Hanlin Academy. His daughter did what so many Catholic women have done since. She gave her fortune to help the work. She built thirty-nine churches and printed one hundred and thirty books. The influence of Ricci and his associates at the capital was very great. They corrected the calendar, made a survey of the Empire, and cast cannon for the Emperor. The Emperor, so it is said, was on the point of becom- ing a Christian. Had he changed his faith the history of China and her relations with other nations would have been very different. There arose fierce disputes among the missionaries themselves. The Jesuits began the work, but they were not allowed to prose- cute it alone and in peace. The Franciscans and Dominicans sent their men to the field. Directly the strife began. They differed 168 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE on two points. These were the words that should be used for God, and the worship of ancestors. They appealed to the Pope and to the Emperor. These distinguished arbiters differed. The Pope, assuming that he was Christ’s vicegerent, insisted that his decision should settle the matter. The Emperor was not accustomed to such lofty claims and such authoritative expressions. He said, “Who is this man who dares to make decrees for my subjects con- trary to my will?” All thought of becoming a convert was dismissed. His successor issued an edict prohibiting the propaga- tion of Christians in the Empire, and calling upon all missionaries to leave the country except such as were required in Peking for scientific purposes. Some obeyed and left; others did not. They hid themselves among their flocks, and lived and died among them. Roman Catholicism remained under the ban till 1842. Since that time the force in the field has been greatly strengthened. The latest published statistics areas follows: Bishops, 41; European priests, 664; native priests, 559; colleges, 34; convents, 34; native con- verts, 1,002,818. Their cathedrals are the finest buildings in the Empire. There are four of these in Peking. The church is im- mensely wealthy. She owns great amounts of property in the open ports and in ports that are certain to be open in a few years. She can afford fine buildings on eligible sites. With her, money is no consideration. Robert Morrison was the first Protestant missionary to enter China. He reached Canton in 1807. It was a capital crime for a Chinese to teach any foreigner the language. He saw that it would not be wise for him to attempt to preach to the people. He entered the service of the East India Company, and spent his time between Canton and Macao. He undertook to translate the Scriptures, and to prepare a Chinese-English Dictionary. In 1814 he published the New Testament. In 1818, with the help of Milne, he published the Old Testament. In the years 1817-1823 he published a dictionary in six volumes. It has been said that there is no finer monument of human perseverance than the dic- tionary of Dr. Morrison. Someone has said, “The patience that refuses to be conquered, the diligence that never tires, the caution that always trembled, and the studious habit that spontaneously seeks retirement, were best adapted to the first Protestant missionary to China.” He saw three or four converts, no churches, schools, or congregations publicly assembled. When he died in 1834 the prospect was nearly as dark as when he landed. He died as he lived, in faith. He was one of those of whom it is said that earc aa . • CO • S. -I ^Ei •— CO .* kf O bott, Pastor, 286. Adams, Dr., 150. Adams, Mr. and Mrs. M. D., 217. Adelaide, 266. Aden, 295. Adriatic, the, 351. iEgean, the, 349. Agora, the, 349. Agra, 238. Agra College, 240. Akbar, 204, 238. Akita, 69, 90, 91. Albatross, the, 264. Albrecht, Prof., 115. Alexandria, 301, 304, 305, Allen, Dr. Y. J., 161. All men brothers, 369. America, 17. America, evils in, 374. America: a new world, 367. America, talk on, 294. American Bible Society, 23. Amei’iean Christian Missionary Society, 10. American Mission, 309. American Board in Turkey, 339. American Catholic College, 353. American preachers in Australia, 286. Americans, the, 319. Americans discounted, 248. Amoy, 162. Ancestor worship, 190 Anecdote of Dr. Beebe, 142. Anglo-Chinese College, 128. Anskar, 359. Antioch, 329. Archibald, John, 151. Arcot Mission, the, 249. Archipelago, the, 195. Armenians, merchants and bankers, 345; living in dread, 338; decimated, 346; in exile, 337 ; outrages, 338, 339 ; Sultan responsible, 346. Arnold, T. J., 172, 176. Ashmore, Dr., 119. Asia Minor desolated, 344. Athens, 349. Athens, modem, 350. Australians in America, 287 ; Australian churches, 288; members all pay, 288; trains, 285. Azbill, W. K., 67, 76, 93, 94. EJaby Guy, 63, 64. Backsheesh, 324. Bad government, 147. Ballarat, 284. Baptisms in Shanghai, 127. Baptist work among Telugus, 252. Barclay, Dr., 120, 316. Bardezag, 334. Bardsley, John, 271. Bates, T. H, 364. Bathing in Ganges, 230. Bay of Tokyo, 50. Bedouins, 301. Beebe, Dr. and Mrs., 141, 152. Beirut, 309. Believers in Peking, 157. Benares, 228. Ben-Oliel, Mr., 317. Bernard sisters, 244. “Beside the Bonnie Brier Bush,” 47. Bentley, W. P., 127, 132, 176, 320. Bethany, 320. Bethlehem, 322. Bible, the, 47 ; among soldiers and sailors, 121 ; best of missionaries, 216 ; classes, 86; distribution, 87; houses, 113; in Japan, 96, 113; Readers’ Union, 113; societies, 121. Bilaspur, 217. Bina, 222. Bingham, Hiram, 31, 39. Birkenhead, 365. Bishop, Mrs., 121. Bitter Lakes, 298. Black, H. M., 366. Bliss, Dr., 320. Black Hole, the, 208. Boating population. 164. Boardman, Mrs., 198. Bombay, 241. Boone, Dr., 129. Booth, General, 294. Borneo, 41. Boston and San Francisco, 14. Botany Bay, 271. Boyd, Miss, 217. Breakfast in Melbourne, 270 Brearley, Eli, 365. Brigands, 340. Brindisi, 351. British and Foreign Bible Society, 308. 378 INDEX British rule, 193, 239. Brooks, Dr., 361. Buddha, the, 66, 112, 228. Buddhism, 89. Buddhism in China, 166. Buddhist orphanage, a, 114. Buildings in Bilaspur, 219. Buildings in Paris, 360. Burmese, 197. Butchart, Dr., 112, 131, 172, 174. Bungalows, 259. Burford, Mr., 267, 268. Burgess, Miss, 223. Burning the dead, 230. Cairo, 300. Calcutta, 200, 207. Cambridge Brotherhood, 237. Canton, 163. Carey, William, 208, 214, 215. Carrie Loos Williams’ Memorial, 173. Cashmere Gate, 237. Caste, 260. Caste in England, 366. Catholics in South Seas, 38. Cawnpore, 232. Ceylon, 41, 262; British in, 263; Dutch and Portuguese. 262, 263; missions in, 263. Chalmers, Dr., 163. Chandler, Mr., 247. Charity schools, 79, 85. Cheltenham, 280. Chester, 366. Chewing gum, 269. Chicago, 14. Children, 292. Children, desire for, 219. China, 186; age of, 187; Chinese, 19; age revered, 182; begging, 182; bind- ing feel, 179; books in, 184; Buddhism in, 190; Catholics, 165; climate of, 151; conceit, 169 ; conservatism, 191 ; Chris- tianity making progress, 171; Confu- cianism, 166; converts, 169; converts lose, 170; dirt, 183; disputes among Catholics, 167 ; dress hair peculiarly, 179; dress, 180; economical, 189; given to lying, 191 ; fertilizers, 186 ; finger- nails, 179, 180; government, 187; hos- pitals in China, 170; ignorance of peo- ple, 139, 192; China Inland Mission, 124; intellect located in stomach, 183; Jesuits in, 165; Chinese know all things, 184; lay up merits, 181; literature pure, 191; make no progress, 192; maps, 139; moves, 148; no national postal system, 192 ; opposed to missions, 169 ; polygamy, 191; poor, 134; prefer one another, 182 ; prize learning, 187 ; products, 186; peo- ple proud, 185; regard printed paper, 180; religious, 189 ; rivers in, 186; peo- ple starve, 192; suicide in, 181; Chi- nese a superior race, 189 ; superstitions, 189; Taoism in, 183; women in, 171; wronged, 171. Chinese learning, 188. Chinese mission school, 277. Cholera, 60. Christ as a pig, 151, Christian College, 245. Christian Commonwealth, 362. Christian- Evangelist, 11. Christian Standard, 10. Christianity in Japan, 61, 96. Chu Cheo, 143, 145, 173. Church Missionary Society, 316. Church, first in Japan, 97. Churches of Christ, 100. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 315, 323. Churches in Norway, 356. Churches in South Australia, 269. Cincinnati, 9, 367. City of Peking, 12, 17, 18. Clay, B. F., 12. Cleveland, Captain, 30. Clive, 205. Clough, Dr., 253. Coan, Titus, 25, 26. Coleridge, quoted, 264. Coliseum, 352. Collingwood, 281. Cologne, 359. Competitive Examinations, 187, 188. Conference in Hurda, 226. Conference in Melbourne, 289. Conference in Nankin, 152. Conference Sermon, 278. Conference in Sydney, 272. Confucius, 84, 147 154, 189. Confucianism, 89. Congregation of the Propagation of the Faith, 353. Constantinople, 342 ; has a great history, 342, 343; improvements forbidden, 346; sacked, 1543 ; taken by the Turks, 344. Consular Courts, 63. Cook, Captain, 30. Coop, Messrs., 365. Copenhagen, 354. Copts, the, 300. Corinth, 351. Course of Study in Girls’ Home, 76. Cow-protector, 226. Cow temple, 229. Curious things in China, 179. Curious things in Japan, 107. Cyprus, 329. Damoh, 220. Dana, R. H., 28. Danes, the, 213, 357. Dardanelles, the, 331. Davies, Mr. and Mrs., 270, 283. Dawson, Sir William, 307. Dead Sea, the, 321. INDEX 379 Death at Sea, 296. Delhi, 236 ; and the mutiny, 237 ; taken, 237. Delta, the, 302. Denver, 11, 12. Departments of work in India, 217. Dialects in China, 127. Disciples of Christ in Australasia, 290 ; in India, 217 ; in Japan, 90; in New South Wales, 273. Discouragements in Turkey, 337. Doncaster, 280. Doshisha, the, 115, 116, 117. Drinking away from home, 375. Drinking on board ship, 45. Duff, Dr., 208. Dunn, H. G., 277. Durand, Dr., 225. Durban, W., 362. Dutch Missionary Societies, 196. Dyer, Mr., 241. !Ear Monument, the, 115. East India Company, 205. Edkins, Dr., 126. Egypt, 306, 307. Egypt, population of, 306, 307. Emperor of China favorable to the Gospel, 106. Empress of China, 119. Empress of Japan, 162. England, 361 ; the great missionary nation, 361 ; English in Japan, 97 ; English roads, 163 ; language widespread, 373. Ephesus, 344. Errett, Isaac, 10. Eschol, 25. Eta, 72. "Evangelist,” not "pastor,” 288. Evangelization of the world a great un- dertaking, 373. Eurasians, 199. Ewers, D. A., 265, 275, 280. Exodus, the, 298. F' aber, 49. Faber, Dr. E., 125. "Failure of Missions,” 372. Fair Sex, the, 310. Famine, 222. Farewell, 285. Faris, E. E., 10. Farrar, Miss, 227. Ferguson, Mr., 153. Ferntree Gully, 281. Fishing with cormorants, 134. Fiji, 40. Filth in Nankin, 137. Forbidden City, the, 157. Foochow, 162. Food of Chinese, 20. Food on ship, 20. Foreign concessions, 63. Foreign devils, 134. Foreign Missions in Melbourne, 277. Formosa, 41, 120, 163. Forscutt, C. F., 271. Fort, the, 236. Foulk, Lieut., 117. Franklin, Miss Josepha, 221. Franklin, Miss Stella, 222. Frederickshald, 356. French in India, 205. Friendly Islands, 41. Frost, Miss, 227. Fujiyama, 113. Fulham, 362. Fumigating passengers, 310. Gambling, 19, 134. Ganesh, 229. Garvin, T. D., 29, 36. Garst, Mr. and Mrs., 74, 90, 112. Germans in the East, 77, 193. Gethsemane, 320. Gibson, T. R., 312, 331. Gilbert Islands, 26, 39. Giol Dagh, 333. Girls’ Home, 75. Girls’ School, 118. Gloucester, 364. Gobat, Bishop, 316. God of War, 112. Goddess of Mercy, 66, 112. Gold in Victoria, 284. Golden Gate, 12, 13. Golden Temple, 229. Golden Horn, 342. Gole, Mr. and Mrs., 273. Golgotha, 320. Gordon’s Calvary, 317. Gordon, Dr., 87, 117. Gordon, E. M., 217, 220. Gore, Mr. and Mrs., 265, 266, 267, 286. Goshen, 299. Gospel, the, and progress, 162. Gospel, the, taking hold of the nations, 369. Gospel, the, in India, 216. Gospel Village, the, 154. Gossner Mission, the, 249. Gothenburg, 356. Gow, L. H., 363. Graves, Dr., 164. Graves everywhere in China, 131. Graybiel, Miss, 217, 227. Great Australian Bight, 295. Great Mosque, 236. Great Wall, 158. Greece, 349, 350. Greek Church, 99. Green, Dr., 77, 111. Green, M. W., 265. Griffis, Dr., 86. Grote St. Church, 266. Gulick family, the, 118. Guy, Mr. and Mrs., 50, 56, 63, 93. 380 INDEX Hamburg, 359. Hanchow, 162. Hankow, 148. Hanlin Academy, 157. Hanobuehi, 67. Hardy, Alpheus, 116. Harrison, Miss, 91. Havelock, 233, 234. Hawaii: Bibles in Museum, 34; Bishop Museum, 32; building a house, 32; com- merce of, 35 ; Constitution of, 34 ; Evan- gelical Association, 36; evangelization of, 23; Ex-Queen, 34; flowers, 43; Japanese in, 43; Jubilee motto, 32; lepers, 35; legislature, 34; missiona- ries, 30, 31; people dying out, 27, 35; population of, 35; President Dole, 34; triumphs of the Gospel, 26, 28 ; vice in, 27. Hawk, Jeu, 18. Hearnden, Mr. and Mrs., 144, 172. Heber, 209, 246. Hebron, 321. Hepburn, Dr., 97. Hideyoshi, 102. Hill, David, 149. Hilo, 25, 26. Himalaya, the, 263. Himalayas, the 201. Hindmarsh, 267. Hippodrome, 347. Hoick, Dr. and Mrs., 354, 357. Hong Kong, 41, 163. Honjo, 69, 92. Honolulu, 12, 22; cosmopolitan, 36; Dis- ciples of Christ in, 36 ; in 1820 and 1896, 37. Hoogly, the, 207. Hopper, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 43. Hornsey, 362. Horses and oxen in Japan, 51. Hospital, the Memorial, 138. Hospital in Hong Kong, 163. Hospital in Singapore, 195. Hostetter, Miss, 79, 94. Hunt, John, 40. Hunt, Mabel, 146. Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., 138, 144, 172, 175, 177. Humavun, 204, 237. Hurda, 217, 224. Hyacinth, the, 36. Hykes, Dr., 127. Idols, 72. Idolatry overthrown, 24. Imperial Museum, 79. India, 201; and Christianity, 212; and commerce, 204 ; extent of, 201 ; is poor, 259 ; outline of, 201 ; aborigines of, 202 ; Alexander in, 203 ; Aryans in, 202 ; British India Proper, 205; buildings, 255; Catholics in, 212; children wear little clothing, 255; drinking in, 211; Feudatory States, 205 ; hours of eating, 258 ; idols in, 258 ; languages, 202 ; Max Muller on, 206; mechanics sit, 256; Methodist Missions in, 250 ; Mohamme- dans in, 203; Nestorians in, 212; Pan- taenus in, 212; people delight in jewels, 256 ; people dark in skin, 255 ; prize of the East, 203; roads are good, 259; servants, 257 ; tools, 256 ; washing, 257 ; women, 259, 260; work on buildings, 257. Industrial Missions, 80. Infant baptism, 354. Ingle, Mr., 149. Inland Sea, 122. Innai, 68. Ion Keith-Falconer, 295, 296. Islands of the Sea, 38. Ismailia, 298. Isthmus of Suez, 298. Iwamoto, Pres., 76. Jackson, Mrs., 225. Jaffa, 308, 312. Japan, 52; audiences, 58; baby car- riages, 110; bath, 65; beds, 65; black teeth, 59; books, 110; bowing, 109; bright faces, 59; chopsticks, 64, 65; Christianity banned, 96; Chui'ch of Christ, 100; clogs, 109; destined to be- come Christian, 62; dress, 108; Dutch in, 105; earthquakes, 78; Embassies to America, 98 ; first convert, 80 ; food, 64 ; Fox-god, 170; government, 53; horses, 107; hotels, 64; houses, 65, 71, 107; Imperial University, 77 ; jinrickshas, 67 ; labor-saving machines, 107 ; live in villages, 71; money, 71; not yet Chris- tian, 61; opened, 54, 96; people, 52; persecution, 103, 104; police, 108; progress, 77 ; progress of Gospel, 71, 99, 106; Catholics in, 99; shoes removed, 110; sitting posture, 107; smoking, 64; Sunday in, 56; tea-drinking, 64; a Western nation, 111 ; women grow old young, 59; Y. M. C. A. in, 81. Java, 41. Jericho, 321. Jerusalem, 315, 321. Jesuits, 102, 158. Jewett, Dr., 252. Jewish opposition to the Gospel, 318. Jinricksha, 51. John, Dr., 148, 149. Johnson, John, 304, 305. Johnson, Miss Kate, 91. John of Mount Corvin, 167. Judson, Dr. and Mrs., 197. Judson, Miss Hattie L., 225. INDEX 381 Kiaiserwerth Deaconesses, 311, 317. Kali, 207, 228. Kamakura, 112. Kamehameha, 33. Kanakas, 277. Kedron, 320. Kerr, Dr., 120, 164. Kevorkian, Dr., 336, 340. Kiernander, 208. Kindness to missionaries, 130. Kingsbury, Dr., 271, 273. Kingsbury, Miss, 218. King’s Daughters, 99. Kinsey, Miss, 223. Kissing, 325. Kobe, 112, 118. Kodak feared, 147. Korea, 115. Kozaki, Pres., 99, 117. Kublai Khan, 167. Kutub-Minar, 236. Kyoto, 98, 114. Large ingatherings, 249. Lawrence, Sir Henry, 234. Lawrence, Lord, 216. Life on a ship, 48. Lohr, Mrs., 218. Lone Star Mission, 252. Loomis, Mr., 90, 121. Lord’s Supper, 289, 290. Louvre, the, 360. Love, the, 131. Losing a day, 45. Lowry, Dr., 155. Lucknow, 233. Ludbrook, Dr., 282. Lu Hoh, 143, 146. Luke, 40. Lyon, D. W., 120. Lyon, Miss, 141, 176. !Maeao, 163. Macklin, Dr. W. E., 91, 137, 144, 172. Madagascar, 41. Madden, Col., 330. Madras, 245. Madura, 247, 251. Magarey, A. T., 268. Magarey, Dr. S. J., 268. Magarey, Thomas, 268. Mahoba, 227. Main, Dr., 120, 162. Mandarins, 160, 161, 192. Mangan, Miss, 313. Mansell, Pres., 234. Marathon, 350. Martyn, Henry, 214. Mars’ Hill, 349. Maston, A. B., 281. McAll, Dr., 83, 360. McCaleb, J. M., 75, 93. McClean, F., 280. McDonald, Mr., 209, McGavrau, Mi’, and Mrs., 221. McGregor, Dr., 120. McKenzie, Dr., 159. Medical School in Agra, 239. Medical Missions in India, 215. Medical work in Nankin, 173. Medical work conciliates, 138. Mediterranean, the, 308. Meigs, Pres., 139, 172, 177. Meiji-Jo-Gakko, 94. Melbourne, 270, 283. Memorials in Cawnpore, 233. Memorial chapel, 69. Memorial hospital, 173. Mesopotamia, 345. Methodists in Italy, 352. Middle Kingdom, the, 161. Mikado, the, 53, 115. Mikkelsen, O. C., 354. Miller, Drs., 218. Miller, Miss Alice, 67, 76, 94. Miller, Principal, 245. Ming Tombs, 159. Ministry, an educated, 274, 291. Mission Press, 235, 311. Missionary Conference, 78, 79; mission- ary methods, 83. Missionaries: character of, 122, 178, 370; cursed, 311; in China, 169; joyous, 19; on all ships, 17; trials of, 371; way they live, 377. Missionary Eevieiv, 175. Missions drawing people together, 373. Missions in America, 13. Missions in Benares, 231. Missions in Palestine difficult, 318. Mississippi, the, 13. Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., 222, 223. Mohammedan University, 304. Mahmud of Ghazni, 203. Moghuls, the, 204, 239. Molland, C. E., 152, 172, 176. Monkey Temple, 228. Moore, Paul, 362. Moore, W. T., 10, 365. Moravian Leper Asylum, 317. Morris, John, 281. Morrison, Robert, 163, 168. Moslem opposition to the Gospel, 318 Mosque of Omar, 317, 319. Mott, J. R., 245, 264. Mount Healthy, 9, 367. Mount of Olives, 326. Mungeli, 220. Murdock, Dr., 245. Murray, William, 157. Museum in Gizeh, 304. Mutiny, the Sepoy, 205. “ My Indian Bird,” 199. 382 INDEX Nagasaki, 104. Nagasaki Bay, 123. Nana Sahib, 232. Nankin, 136, 172; College, 174; Treaty, 169; University, 152. Nara, 118. Narbadda, 226. Nations about the Mediterranean, 328. Native feast in Bilaspur, a, 219. Need the Gospel: all do, 369. Neesima, 88, 115, 116. Nellore, 244. Nestorian Monument, 166. Nevius, Dr., 154. New Guinea, 41. New Hebrides, 40. Ni, Pastor, 127. Nicholson, Gen., 234. Nicomedia, 334. Night in a temple, 140. Nikko, 64, 65, 66. Nile, the, 301, 306. North African Mission, 305. North of Japan, 63. Norway, trip to, 355 ; Norwegians, 357 ; religion of, 356 ; peerless listeners, 356. Oldham, Miss, 93. Obookiah, 23, 26. "Oceana,” 47. Opium, 132, 171. Orphanage in Damoh, 221. Osaka, 117. “ Our Position and Mission,” 277. Our Young Folks, 11. Outram, Gen., 234. IParis, 360. Pacific Christian, 12. Palestine: all events located, 323; Expo- sition Fund, 320; Jews in poor, 324; many races in, 325; population of, 326. Pappenburg, 123. “ Paradise of the Pacific,” 37. Parker, E. W., 250. Parsees, 242. Parthenon, 350. Passports, 63, 67. Paton, Dr., 40. Patriarch of Maronites, 311. Patterson, Dr., 322. Peacock Throne, the, 204, 236. Pearl Mosque, 238. Peiho, the, 154. Peking, 157 ; University, 155. Penang, 196. Perry, Com., 50, 54. Persecution in China, 166. Pharaoh, 299. Pharos, the, 305. Place of Wailing, 319. Pnyx, the, 350. Poona, 242, 243. Pope and Emperor, 168. Population of the West, 14. Port Said, 308. Post, Dr., 311. Portugal, 205; Portuguese, the, 102, 196. Preaching, 83, 134. Preachers in Norway, 356. Presbyterian College, 78; missionaries, 311; press, 128. Preussen, the, 193. Princess Ruth, 33. Prison, 117. Property destroyed in Turkey, 339. Protestants in Japan, 99. Public domain, 271. Pyramids, the, 300, 301. Quarantine, 310. !Rajah of Tanjore, 213. Railways: in China, 154; in Japan, 51; in Palestine, 314. Ramabai, Pandita, 242. Rambo, W. E., 221. Rameses, 299. Rangoon, 197. Raphael's room, 352. Rapkin, Geo., 263. Rats eaten in Canton, 164. Reception in Shanghai, 128. Reciprocity, 189. Red Sea, the, 296. Reid College, 235. Reid, Gilbert, 156. Religious establishment in Jerusalem, 315. Republic of Formosa, 120. Residency, the, 234. Results of missions, 370 Review of the Times, the, 161, 175. Ricci, Matteo, 167. Richard, Timothy, 154, 156. Rioch, Miss, 75, 93. Riot, a, 150, 151. Ritualism, 318. Road to Peking, 155. Robert College, 335, 347. Roberts, Dr., 160. Robinson, Miss Sue’s grave, 226. Rome, mostly modem, 352 ; famous build- ings in, 352. Rosetta Stone, 304. Salt Lake, 11, 14. Salvation Army, 292, 314. Sandwich Islands, 30. San Francisco, 14, 17. Santa Cruz, 12. Sargent, Bishop, 247. Savage Island, 40. Saw, Mr. and Mrs., 119, 140, 146, 147, 172, 175. INDEX 383 St John's College, 129, 240. St. John Lateran, 352. St. Louis, 10, 11. St. Peter’s, 352. St. Sophia, 344. Schools in Alexandria, 305. School in Peking for the blind, 157. Schools in Egypt, 382. Schools in India, 215. Schools in Japan, 85. School of Mines, 284. School in Nankin, 138. Schwartz, C. F., 246, 313. Scott, Miss, 79, 93. Seudder, Dr. H. M., 250. Scudder, Dr. John, 249. Sea of Japan, 69. Sea of Marmora, 331. Selby, Isaac, 278. Self-support in Egypt, 303. Sepoy Mutiny, 232. Serampore, 210. Services, aboard ship, 45, 293; in Bilas- pur, 219 ; in Delhi, 237. Shakespeare, quoted, 361. Shah Jehan, 239. Shanghai, 123, 172 ; influence of, 173. Shantung, 154. Sheffield, Dr., 159. Shinto temple, 67. Shintoism, 89. Shishmanian, Mr. and Mrs., 332, 335. Shiva, emblems of, 230 Shogun, the, 53, 115. Shonai, 70, 92. Siam, 196. Sicawei, 129. Sikandra, 238. Sistine Chapel, 352. Singapore, 193. “Slowly, slowly go,” 143. Smith, Mr. and Mrs. G. T., 69, 90. Smither, A. C., 12. Smith, A. D., 263, 267. Smith, Dr. S. F., 252. Smyrna, 330. Socotra, 295. Southport, 365. South Seas, societies in, 40. Southern Cross, 264. Sphinx, the, 301. Spies in Constantinople, 345. Spring, E. H., 364. Squeezing, 73. Stanley, Mr., 155. Statistics, of Catholics in China, 168; of work in India, 215. Stevens, Dr., 93. Stevens, E. S., 75, 93. Stileman, Lieut., 36. Suez Canal, 297. Sultan of Johore’s palace, 195. Sunday, none in the pagan world, 59. Sunday-schools, in Japan, 57 ; and wo- man’s meetings, 84. Superstitions in China, 135. Sydney, 270. Sydney Harbor, 272. Syrian Christians, 212; Protestant Col- lege, 311. Syria, stations in, 311. Swan, Dr. J. M., 120, 162, 164. Switzerland, 353. Taj Mahal, 204, 238. Talitha Kumi, 317. Talking with the people, 87. Tanjore, 246. Taoism, 166. Tartars, 186. Taylor, J. Hudson, 124. Tea, 184. Tea houses, 134. Tel-El-Kebir, 299. Temperance meeting, 275. Temple area, 319. Temples in Nankin, 141; in Southern India, 246. Thaddeus, 23. Thoburn, Bishop, 249. Tlioburn, Miss, 235. Thomas, the Apostle, 166. Thompson, Miss, 225. Tibet, 153. Tientsin, 154, 159; treaty of, 169. Timour, 204. Tinnevelly, 247, 251. Todd, E. M., 366. Tokyo, 93, 112. Tombs of the Caliphs, 304. Trampling on the Cross, 101, 105. Triehinopoly, 246. Troas, 331. Tsungming, 131. Tungcliau, 135. Tung-eho, 159. Turk, the, a leech, 346; a savage, 344; in Europe, 344. Turkish missions, 336; first baptism, 336; tracts in, 336. Turkish government, 326, 327. Turkish officials, 332; misrule, 334; oppo- sition to missions, 332. Tyre, 328. United Presbyterians, 301, 302, 311. Unley Church, 266. Utah, 12. 'Valentine, Dr., 238. Vancouver, George, 30. Vatican, the, 352. Verbeek, Dr., 80, 97. Verco, Dr., 269, 287. Versey, J. II., 365. 384 INDEX Victoria Bible School, 276. Victoria Missionary Conference, 275. Visiting the fields expedient, 375. 'W aldenses, the, 353. Wallace, Lew, testimony of, 340. Ware, Mr. and Mrs., 123, 131, 172, 176. Warren, Dr. and Mrs., 282. Washburn, Dr., 247. Watchmen in China, 135. Watson, Dr., 302. Wedding feast, a, 141. Weedon, W. C., 29, 37, 43. Well of the Ear-ring, 229. Well of Knowledge, 229. West, the, 13. West London Tabernacle, 361. Western men in the East, 372. Whangpoo River, 123. Wharton, Mr., 224, 254. Whateley, Miss, 303. Wheelbarrows, 133. Wheeler, Dr., 316. Wheeler, Gen., 232. White, J. C., 209. Whittier quoted, 234. Wilder, R. P., 243. Williams, Mr. and Mrs. E. T., 139, 140, 172, 175, 176. Williams’, Came Loos, memorial, 172. Women and the Gospel, 374; in heathen lands, 374; in Egypt, 300; inferior, 325; in Japan, 88. Woosung, 131. Workers needed, 373. World’s Student Christian Federation, 264. Wu, Empress, 166. Wuchang, 148. Wuhu, 152, 173. ^Xavier, Francis, 101, 167, 196, 212, 213. ^Vangtsze, the, 123. Yokohama, 49, 90, 113. Y. M. C. A., 99. Yu-Ho-Tsz, 144, 173, 175. Ziegenbalg, 213. Zoan, 299. Zoological Gardens, 281.