NORTHWESTERN
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
EVANSTON
ILLINOIS
^r
The Muata Cazembe (Emperor of The Lrmdas).
SIX TEARS
OP
A TßAYELLEE'S LIFE
IN
WESTERN AFEICA.
BY
FRANCISCO TRAVASSOS VALDEZ,
FOSHEBI.T H.M. F. BtAJESTT'S ABBITBATOB AT LOANDA,
AMD AT PBESENT HOU>IMO A SDOIiAB AJPPODTfolENT IN THE B&ITISH AMD POBTCODESE
Mmm COMHISSION AT THE CAPE OF QOOD HOPE.
|ínmier0n8 lUn^rstions.
m TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,
Ipy GSEAT MABLBOBOUGH STBEET.
1861.
^ riffAt ttf liwukKtion ù reserved.
^fricä
^lL(o
-T'?71s
V. I
london :
l'uinted by r. born, oloucbster street,
regent's FAKK.
DEDICATION
to
SENHOR ALFREDO DUPRAT,
KNIGHT-COMMANDEE OF THE OEDER OF CHRIST, AND KNIGHT OF ODE LADY OF THE CONCEPTION OF
VTELA YIÇOSA, BACHELOR OF LETTERS, AND FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL
SOCIETY OF LONDON; Q. M. F. M.'S COMMISSIONER IN THE BRITISH AND
PORTDGDESE MTgP.D COMMISSION AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, ETC.
Dear Sir,
The kindness and courtesy I have experienced at your
hands since my arrival in the Cape Colony, induce me to dedicate
this work to you, in the hope that it will be received with feelings
similar to those which have prompted me to offer it.
Independently, however, of personal friendship, and of your
studious regard for the interests of those of your countrymen who visit
these shores, there are yet other reasons why I venture this dedica¬
tion to you, namely—^because of your patriotic spirit, and the earnest
desire you have ever manifested to promote whatsoever is beneficial
to the interests of aU, irrespective of personal considerations or party
prejudices.
While in your official capacity you have maintained the honour
and dignity of the nation you represent, you have at the same time
-adopted the cosmopolitan principle of seeking to do good to all;
hence, with this conviction, I offer you this slight tribute of friend¬
ship, hoping that my " Six Years of a Traveller's Life in Western
AMca " may not altogether fail to benefit that cause it has been de¬
signed to promote.
With best wishes for your welfare,
Believe me, dear Sir,
Yours very truly,
FBAlSrCISCO TRAVASSOS VALDEZ.
Rocke Dale Cottage,
Mowbray, Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope.
686075
PREFACE.
In presenting to the public the following account
of the Portuguese possessions on the coast of Wes¬
tern Africa, under the title of " Six Years of a Tra¬
veller's Lifein Western Africa," the author would pre¬
mise that he is induced to lay the result of his ob¬
servations before the public in the hope that they
may, in however humble a degree, add somewhat
to the general stock of information regarding the
resources of Africa, so eagerly sought for at the pre¬
sent day, when that portion of the globe is appa¬
rently on the eve of emergingfrom the comparative
obscurity in which its capabilities have hitherto
been involved.
In 1844, in consequence of the unsettled state of
public affairs in Portugal, the author's father, the
Count de Bomfim, undertook to raise the standard of
R^orm ; but the effort being rather premature, he
vüi PREFACE.
did not then succeed. The political affairs of
1846—7 proved disastrous in their consequences to
many of the author's relatives, personal friends,
and countrymen, and also to the author in propria
personâ.
By the famous Protocol, however, of 1847, Eng¬
land, France, and Spain agreed to interfere, to ac¬
complish the pacification of Portugal—an arrange¬
ment which led, as might reasonably have been ex¬
pected, to the revolution of 1851, which, thanks to
that gracious and overruling Providence by whom
"kings reign and princes execute justice," has been
attended with the most beneficial and happy re¬
sults.
On the publication of the above Protocol, the
author left the military profession, and returned to
the paternal roof, where his time was principally
occupied in perusing the records of those voyages
and travels of former days by which his enterpris¬
ing countrymen had so signalized themselves, and
gathered unfading laurels.
Whilst perusing those pleasing narratives, he
became animated with an ardent desire to mtness
some of the scenes described, and to make at least
an attempt to add, by personal effort, to the mforma-
PKEFACE. ix
tion already collected, particularly as regarded the
extensive and important possessions of Portugal on
the Continent of Africa.
Influenced by these feelings, he applied for and
obtained an appointment to the Western Coast of
Africa ; and when about to enter upon the duties
which devolved upon him, as H.M.F. Majesty's
Arbitrator at Loanda, on the western coast of
Africa, he was so fortunate as to be ordered to
embark for his post in a war-steamer, and to visit
and report upon various parts of the western coast.
Butin addition to the information relative to the
localities-thus personally and officially visited, he
has taken the liberty of quoting several trustworthy
Portuguese authors, respecting other important
stations which he was unable himself to inspect, in
order to furnish a complete maritime hand-book,
for the use of those whom the interests of science
or of trade .may induce to visit the western coast of
Africa. And he would also observe that the minute
description which he has given of the Cape Verde
.Islands, St. Thomas, Prince's Island, and the oppo-
âte coast, together with the exact position of the
various points officially visited, may he found of
beneflt to masters of vessels visiting those places,
X PREFACE.
as pointing out the nearest and safest ports, in case
of any emergency.
He hopes his little work may also proTe* of use
to the commercial 'community in genera^ as the
attention of the civilized world has, through Dr.
Livingstone's enterprise and exertions, been drawn
to portions of this extensive Continent, which have
hitherto formed so large a blank on the map of
Africa, and which have to the present moment
been regarded as "Unexplored Regions."
In conclusion, the author begs to observe tíiat
there are other most important facts to be noted at
the present time relative to the western coast of
Africa, namely, first, that cotton of a superior
quality may be obtained at little cost and labour,
as it is indigenous ; and, second, that nothing would
tend more to the discouragement of that abomina¬
ble traffic in human beings, slavery, than providing
remunerative labour for the aborigines. The es¬
tablishment, by some philanthropic and enterpris¬
ing company, of extensive cotton plantations on a
soil whence could be obtained sufficient produce for
the demand of the whole of Europe, would most
undoubtedly prove an effective check to the slave-
trade in those parts. This, togeth^ vôth the fur-
PREFACE. xi
ther and more extensive development of the re¬
sources of the Qopper mines already so successfully
worked in the mountains of Bembe, near Ambriz,
as recounted in this work, affords an opening for ex¬
tensive and remunerative trade to any company
that might embark therein ; and would ultimately
lead to the introduction of Christianity, and conse¬
quently civilization—^for the people are "men of
like passions with ourselves"; and although at
present as rude blocks in Nature's quarry, they are
capable of being moulded into a profitable and
pleasing form.
Feeling confident that any effort to aid a cause
so noble as that above referred to will in general
be favourably received by all desirous of promoting
the amelioration of the sable sons of Ham, de¬
graded and benighted as they are, these sketches
are now submitted to the public, in the hope that
th^ may in some, even small, degree have this ten¬
dency.
The author, in submitting his work to public
approval, doubts not that there are portions of it
open to criticism. His main object has been to
deal with facts, and afford useful information ra¬
ther than amusement ; but being a Portuguese, he
PKEFACE,
labours under a disadvantage in attempting to
%
cönvey his ideas with suftcient peii||>iciiity in the
English language ; hut he-would say, in the words
of a favourite poet :
" He who does his best does well.
Acts nobly—angels no more."
In conclusion, the author trusts that Although,
through the preserving mercy of Providence, he is
not numbered with the noble army of martyrs who
have devoted their lives and honourably fallen in
their efforts to open up the resources of Afiîca, and
to enlarge our geographical knowledge of this vast
Continent, yet he aspires to the honour of being
enrolled, even as a private, in the corps of pioneers;
and if his past efforts are favourably recognized as
entitling him to be considered eli^ble for this dis¬
tinction, he will consider himself amply rewarded
for his toil.
CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
CHAPTER L
DepartnTe from LiisTx)n—A Storm—^Porto Santo—^Residence of
Colmnbnn here—Desertar^Arrival at Madeira—Pico Ruivo—^The
Exile of the Anthor's Father—Historical Kotices—^The Disciple of
Beresford—The Constitutional Charter proclaimed in Madeira—
My Father appointed Post-Master of Portugal—Commands the
Progressista Army—Church of Nossa Senhora do Monte—Gkimes
of the Emigrants—^Novel mode of Ascending a Mountain—Corsas
—A Viát to the Count de Caryalhal—The Levada d'Agna—
Fcffdgn Residents in Funchal—The Government of Madeira—^The
Trade of the Island—^Wine Farms—^Nautical Academy and Obser¬
vatory—Invalids on the Island—^Plants and Animals—^Education
—Climate—^Melancholy Incident and Romantic History—Yisit to
a Hunnery—^Departure from Madura 1
CHAPTER n.
The Canaries—Teneriffe—S. Vicente—The Kloofr—^Hospitality of
the Commandant of S. Vicente—The Town of MindeOo—The
Agricultnre of the Island—Santo Antao—Variety of Tmnperature
—En^cipation of the Slaves—Santa Luda—Its Ports and Ancho¬
rages—Character of the Natives—The Climate and Soü—^Me of
Sal—Abundance of Fish—The Salt-Pits—Boa Vista . . 32
xiv
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER in.
Maio—Porto Inglez—Communication with the Shore—Production of
Salt — Agriculture and Pasturage—Artificial Salt Pits — The
Natives of Maio—European Consuls—Historical Notice of the
Isle—Santiago—^The Harbour of VUla da Praya—Visit from the
Port Captain—^Description of the Town—Government Buildings—
The Supply of Water—A Visit to the Belgian Consul—^Food of
the Inhabitants—^A Drive to the^Old Capital of the Island—Or-
chilla, Maize, and other Agricult*ral Productions—^Trade and
Commerce—^Indigo and Cotton—^Tobacco and Dragon's Blood—
Various Plants and Fruits—The Animals of the Island—A Bull
Fight—^The Native Women—A Review of the Troops—A Mar¬
riage—^Musical Instruments—A Sia:ange Custom—Reception of the
Governor—The Anchorage of Santiago—Lagoons and Malaria—^Ec¬
clesiastical Arrangements—^The Natives—^Mercantile Housœ —
Early Voyages to Santiago—Historical Notice—^Fogo—Its Princi¬
pal Ports—^Villa de San Felippe—Volcanic Eruptions—Brava—Its
Mineral Productions 84
CHAPTER IV.
Senegal—^Island of St. Louis—French Hospitality—^Palace of the
Governor—The Hospital—The Caserne d'Orléans—The Dwelling-
houses of the Blacks—Polygamy—The Mosque—Marabouts—The
Criminal Laws of the Natives—Religious Festivals—A Romantic
Story—^Wives of Appointment—Peculiar Customs in Courtship—
Marriage Ceremonies—^The Mouth of the Senegal—Voyages for its
Discovery—^The Narratives of Cadamosto and Former Navi^tors
—Civilization of the Negroes—Progress of Portuguese Trade—
Smuggling—Loss of Early Portuguese Conquests . . 162
CHAPTER V-
Senegambia, or Portuguese Guinea—^The River Casamancar—The
Sacalates—^The Natives of Tambarem— Their Palavras or Public
Assemblies—^The Felupes and Banhuns—^Mouths of the St. Do¬
mingo—Character of the Biafiaoes—The Mandingoes—Ferocity of
the Bijajoz—Costume of the Inhabitants of the various Islands—
CONTENTS.
XV
Their Beligious Worship—^The Interior of Portuguese Guinea—
Portuguese Fortified Settlements—History of the Discovery and
Settlement nf this Territory—The Territory of Sam Sam—King¬
dom of the Papéis—Settlement of Farim—Cachen and its Trade
Establishments on the Rio Grande—Islands of Jatta—The Appear¬
ance, Productions, and Trade of these Islands—^The Annual Expor¬
tation from Cachen and Zinquichor . . . ¿ . 192
CHAPTER VI.
Sierra Leone—Origin of the Name—^Insalubrity of the Climate—
Historical Notices—^The Kroomen—A Reverend Pilot—Appear¬
ance of Sierra Leone—^The Governor's Mansion—Refuge for Libe¬
rated Africans — Residence of the English Bishop—^The Slave-
Trade—^The Lion Mountains—Towns of Wellington and Eissey—
Cape Shilling—^Domestic Arrangements of the Dwelling-Houses—
Mosquitoes—^Waterloo—A Missionary Service—Education—Co¬
loured Teachers—^Attack of Fever—^Mountain Scenery—^Freetown
—^The Legislative Council—Service at the Cathedral—^Portuguese
iuid English Military Officers—Farewell Visit to the Governor—
British Policy in Sierra Leone—Opulence of several Liberated
Africans 261
CHAPTER Vn.
Coast of Guinea—^Terrific Thunderstorm—^The Windy Season—Mon¬
rovia—Formation of the Liberian Republic—^President Roberts—
Appearance of Monrovia^Character of the Kroomen—^Trade of
the District—Dixcove—St. Jorge da Mina—^Dutch Settlements on
the Coast of Guinea—^Discovery of Gold—^History of Femao
Gomes—Cape Coast Castle—The Ashantees—Governor M'Lean—
Cacaracu—Manufacture of Palm Oil—^Ajuda—^Efforts to Prevent
the Slave-Trade on the Coast—^Native Customs—The Avoga of the
Whites—^Despotic Power of the Bang of Dahomé—^The Market
of Calamina—Appearance of the Dahomes—^Productions of the
Country 302
ILLUSTRATIONS.
VOLUME I.
Na Pag*
1. The Muata Caznmbe (Feontispiece).
2.. PONTAL DA CEUZ, ISLE OP MADEIRA .... 31
3. Fortress of St. Jorge da Mina (El-Mina) . . 311
4. Cape Coast Castle 315
VOLUME II.
5. State EecepIton by the Muata Cazembe (Frontispiece).
6. Prince's Island 9
7. Prince's Island, from two leagues south of Caroqo 23
8. St. Thome 23
9. Nicolas, Prince of Congo 67
10. A Lunda or Cazembe Warrior .... 214
11. Cazembe Player on the Cuncufo .... 221
12. The City of S. Paul de Loanda .... 319
13. The City of S- Felippe de Benguella . . . 316
14. Mossamedes 336
A TRAVELLER'S LIFE
IN
WESTERN AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
madeira and porto santo.
Departí:^ from Lisbon—^A Storm—Porto Santo—Residence of
Columbus here—^Deserta—^Arrival at Madeira—Pico Ruivo—^The
Exile of the Author's Father—Historical Notices—^The Disciple of
Beresfgrd—The Constitutional Charter proclaimed in Madeira—
My Father appointed Post-MAster of Portugal—Commands the
%
Progressista Army—Church of Nossa Senhora do Monte—Games
of the Emigrants—Novel mode of Ascending a Mountain—Corsas
—A Visit to the Count de CarvaJhal—^The Levada d'Agua—
Foreign Residents in Funchal—^The Government of Madeira—^The
Trade of the Island—^Wine Farms—^Nautical Academy and Obser¬
vatory—^Invalids on the Island—^Plants and Animais—^Education
—Chmate—^Melancholy Incident and Romantic History—^Visit to
a Nunnery—^Departure from Madeira.
We commenced our voyage with those feelings
which are peculiar to novices entering for the first
time on the " wilderness of waters," and which are
vol. i. b
2
DEPAETÜRE FROM USBON.
better known by experience than they can be by
any possible description, especially from one who
is unacquainted with the nautical phrases adopted,
and so freely used in life at sea. The reader will
therefore excuse my passing over these matters, so
far beyond the comprehension of a landsman, in
respectful silence.
We sailed from the port of Lisbon in January,
1852, under very favourable circumstances. The
surrounding bustle consequent on preparing for a
voyage, the swelling sails, the captain's word of
command, as with a stentorian voice he gave orders
to his men, and their responsive exclamations—all
conspired in some measure to divert the mind from
the weeping relatives and friends from whom we
had just parted, and from dwelling on the ungenial
climate of the country to which we were d^tined,
proverbially known as " the grave of Europeans,"
a destination which, with some domestic circum¬
stances, added much to the pain of parting.
We had not been long at sea when a storm com¬
menced, which caused some on board to request
the captain to make for the nearest port.
Soon afterwards, having passed Cape St.
Vincent, we arrived at the small island of Porto
Santo, in 33° 3' N. latitude, and 7° 11' W.
longitude, from Lisbon.* Here we cast anchor,
and availing myself of the opportunity of visiting
the island, I proceeded in the ship's boat, and im-
* From Greenwich, 16® 20' W.
POETO SANTO.
3
proved the short time allowed in inspecting what
appeared worthy of note.
This small island, 'which is but a short distance
from Madeira, is about 7 miles in length, and
in breadth, and is extremely fertile. It has an
open harbour, where ships may ride at anchor, but
should the wind change to the southward, they
must be ready to weigh anchor and stand out to
sea. It is visited bv Indi amen, outward and home-
ward bound ; and, besides the inhabitants, number¬
ing about 1460, it is at present the retreat of many
wealthy families from Madeira, who have erected
numerous beautiful and commodious residences.
The chief town bears the same name as the
island, Porto Santo or Holy Port. In consequence
of the advantages above alluded to, the harbour is
considered much safer than that of Funchal.
On taking the round of the island, I saw three
small islets ; but I observed that Porto Santo, with
its immediate neighbourhood, was the only portion
of the island producing cereals. A little wine is
also made, but it is mainly dependent on Madeira
for its principal support.
Porto Santo is famous in Portuguese history, as
ithe place where the first adventurers landed in 1418,
and established the first infant colony ; whence they
subsequently sailed in quest of new discoveries.
Here also Christopher Columbus took up his resi¬
dence, having married a Portuguese lady when in
the naval service of Portugal.
n y.
4
AKRIVAL AT MADEIRA.
On our return to the steamer we set sail, and
soon came in sight of two small islands, the larger
of which has received the name of Deserta, from
the fact of its being uninhabited, except by a few
goat-herds, who find shelter in some miserable
huts—^goats and rabbits being apparently the only
quadrupeds on the island.
We were soon in sight of the island of Madeira.
As we approached all eyes were directed towards
this majestic oasis, which revealed to us new beau¬
ties as we drew nearer and nearer, sailing towards
the anchorage of Funchal, the capital of the
island. Madeira is so well known, not only from
the personal visits of numerous invalids, resort¬
ing thither for the enjoyment of its salubrious
air, but also from the frequent notices pub¬
lished by travellers, that it may appear su¬
perfluous in me to detain my readers by enter¬
ing into any elaborate description of the island ;
but as some who peruse these pages may not have
had the opportunity of reading any of these books,
I take the liberty of submitting a few particulars
for their benefit.
It was dark by the time we cast anchor. Next
morning, at day-break, the scene presented to
the eye from the deck of the vessel appeared
truly sublime, especially to those who were
strangers to it. This beautiful "Flower of the
Ocean" is composed of one mass of basalt. Funchal
is in 32° 38' N. latitude, and T 46' W. longitude,
MAGNmCENT VIEW.
5
from Lisbon.* The island is about 31 miles long by
12 broad. Pico Ruivo raises its majestic head 5993,
or, according to others, 6056 feet above the level
of the sea ; and when viewed in the gray twilight
of early dawn, it presented the appearance of a
beautiful mirage ; but when the rising sun cast his
bright rays on the surrounding scene, the castle,
the various beautiful buildings standing out in bold
relief one above another, the numerous belfries,
the serrated mountain ridge, with the various hills
covered with beautiful vines, the air perfumed by
the orange blossom, the canana, the palm, and a
great variety of trees covered with continual ver¬
dure, suggested the presence of a perpetual spring.
As the eye ranged from the base towards the sum¬
mit, admiring the beautiful cottages, as well as the
more magnificent mansions, we beheld the majestic
towers of Nossa Senhora do Monte, or Our Lady of
the Mountain, pointing towards the sky, and inviting
the grovelling sons of earth to seek there the enjoy¬
ment of eternal, unfading delights—and, higher
stiU, even to the very summit, the gigantic trees,
whose thick foliage afforded an agreeable shade, and
invited the weary traveller to rest beneath their
wide-spread branches ! We felt as if we gazed on
some fabulous scene in fairyland.
Whilst the packet was "coaling," I took the op¬
portunity of going on shore. Though this was my
second visit to the island, it was with feelings of
* In 16® 54' W from Greenwich.
6
REMINISCENCES.
indescribable pleasure I now landed, as with
Madeira so many pleasing reminiscences of my
native country are immediately associated. I ask
pardon of my Hibernian friends, if I borrow from
their favourite bard the following stanza, which,
with a slight alteration, expresses my feelings on
that occasion :—
" The savage loves his native shore,
Though rude the blast, though chill the air ;
And why not Porto's sons adore
The land that Nature formed so fair ? "
All my latent feelings of patriotism were revived,
aU the " learned lore " of school-boy days, which
had reference to my country's fame, rushed as a
stream into my memory, and created most pleasing
sensations, mingled with some of a contrary kind.
I was led to reflect on the transient nature of all
sublunary institutions—the change of dynasties, the
rise and faU of kingdoms, and those vicissitudes to
which subjects as well as princes have been exposed
in the course of time, subject to the various effects
of these ever-recurring changes.
My beloved father had been an exile at Setubal
(St. Ubes), by an order of the absolute government
of 1823, for having, with the regiment under his
command, manifested unusual enthusiasm on be¬
half of popular rights, an enthusiasm which, inspir¬
ing all classes, had in course of time conduced so
much to the proclamation of the first constitution
of 1820.
MY FATHEE'S EXILE.
7
It was during my father's exile at the above
place that I made my debut on the stage of life in
1825. The constitution being ultimately established,
my father was restored to his country ; and while
at Bragánza, in command of 900 men, was sur¬
prised by a large force, which, with the reinforce¬
ments supplied by the despotic King of Spain, Don
Fernando VII., amounted to at least 6000 men. The
powder magazine having exploded, and the General
in the popular interest, upon whom my father
depended in this emergency for support and assis¬
tance in relieving the town, withdrawing to about
60 miles distance, a council of war was called, at
which it was decided to capitulate and accept the
terms proposed by the enemy; but no sooner
had the latter obtained possession of the place,
than, regardless of aU faith and national honour,
they arrested my father as a prisoner of war, and
sent him into the interior of Spain.
He profited, however, by an opportunity to elude
the vigilance of his guard, and escaped to Lisbon^
where he immediately demanded an investigation
into his conduct, which, being granted, the Court
unanimously decided that" his conduct well merited
the approbation of his country," as he had been
the first to raise the standard of liberty, and, by so
doing, to check the formidable force destined to
descend on Lisbon and crush the constitution—his
energy and zeal in retarding the progress of the
enemy having afforded time to rally a force suffi-
8
MY YIRST VISIT TO MADEIRA
cient to oppose and counteract their preconcerted
plans.
The Infanta Dona Isabel Maria, then Regent of
Portugal, in the name of the beloved King, Dom
Pedro IV. (Emperor of Brazil, where he had resided
for some time past), desirous of responding to the
voice of the country, and encouraging a patriotic
spirit, offered to my father the important post of
Captain-General of Angola ; but the climate being
unfavourable to Europeans, and fearful of endan-
, gering the health of his wife and children, he de¬
clined the honour. He was then appoiated Captain-
General of Madeira and Porto Santo, and this was
the occasion of my first visit to Madeira. On the
present occasion I was, at my sovereign's command,
on my way to the same insalubrious colonial depen¬
dency of Angola, of which my father had before
refused the Governorship. I also called to mind
that my beloved parent, and my two eldest brothers,
had touched at Madeira, when on their way as cap¬
tives and exiles to Angola.
Being at all times the zealous advocate of liberty,
my father was one of the first to raise its standard.
He had been the first to meet Marshal Beresford, and
tender his services to aid him in expelling Napoleon
after his unjust invasion of the Peninsula ; on
which occasion he obtained the warm friendship
of the Marshal and his staff, and was styled in
Portugal " 0 Discípulo de Beresford," the disciple
of Beresford.
PEOCLAMATION OF THE CHAETEB. 9
He proclaimed in Madeira the constitutional
Charter of 1826, by the command of the ever-
memorable Dom Pedro IV., of whose staff he was
subsequently appointed chief, during the war in
which the throne was wrested from the usurper,
Dom Miguel, and restored to the rightful heir. Dona
Maria II. My father was always found on the side
of legitimate monarchy, and of the liberties of his
country, and was the foremost in every danger.
No other General suffered so many casualties, or
was so often or so severely wounded during the
war.
In 1836, when acting as Her Majesty's Lieu¬
tenant of the Kingdom, he, with the troops under
his command, encountered, at the Chao da Feira,
the Ground, or place, of the Fair, the two
noble and brave marshals, the Dukes of Terceira
and Saldanha, who, together with twenty other
generals, the flower of the Portuguese army, had
raised an insurrection, for the purpose of over¬
throwing the liberal constitution of 1820, and
establishing the charter of 1826, which was more
aristocratic.
On the 13th of March, 1837, in the streets of
Lisbon, at the head of 2,000 of the regular troops,
he attacked a strong force of the National Guards,
about 16,000 strong, whom, after a hot engage¬
ment, he completely routed. The majority of
this army was professedly attached to the liberal
interest ; but having been tampered with by inte-»
10
POLICY OP COSTA CABRAL.
rested demagogues, it had fallen into thdr snares,
and thus united itself with those who desired to
overthrow the popular institutions of the country.
It was in consequence of this signal success that
her Majesty was graciously pleased to bestow upon
hiTn the rank of Count, and appoint him Prime
Minister, Dictator, and Minister of War, with in¬
structions to put the kingdom in proper order, of¬
fensive and defensive.
In 1844, at the head of three regiments, he
opposed the policy of the Cabinet, presided over by
Costa Cabrai (now Count Thomar), in consequence
of their failing to carry out those principles of
reform, and to fulfil those promises of liberty,
which they had made to the nation in 1842, when
Cabrai overthrew the constitution of 18^8, and
proclaimed the charter of 1826.
A number of his friends having been imprisoned,
and others flying, he was thus left without the
succour on which he had calculated ; and was at
length reluctantly compelled to emigrate, as he
saw it would be the greatest folly to risk the lives
of the faithful few who adhered to him at a time
when the greatest portion of the army was carried
away by misrepresentation, and cajoled to join the
interest of Count Thomar.
In 1846 the nation awoke as fi*om a dream, and
rose en masse to assert and obtain its stipulated
liberty. The celebrated Junta do Porto bmng es¬
tablished, my father took command of the Pro-
CAPITULATION OF COUNT BOMFIM. 11
gressista army at Torres Vedras, 2,200 strong,
depending on Count das Antas, the President of
the Junta, for support; hut the Count not arriving
within the time calculated, my father was obliged
to capitulate, under honourable conditions, to the
Duke of Saldanha, who was in command of an
army of 8,000 infantry and 1,500 cavalry — all
regular and well-disciplined troops—^supported by
eighteen field-pieces. Notwithstanding the terms
of capitulation, he and my brothers were detained
as prisoners of war, by order of the Duke ; and, in
violation of all honourable compact, without con¬
sideration of his services to the throne and the
cause of liberty, regardless of his severe wounds,
of his rank and titles, and of honours conferred
on him by Belgium, Holland, and Spain, a decree
was received commanding that Count Bomfim,
together with his two sons, should be exiled to
Angola.
It was under these distressing circumstances that
in 1847 he called at Madeira, together with
my two brothers, as prisoners, on their way to
Angola, of which my father had refused the
Governorship, and of which my eldest brother, the
young Count, had been Colonial Secretary from
1841 to 1845. Hence arose some of the ^bitter
thoughts which now occupied my mind. But,
as I before said, they were mingled with other and
sweeter recollections; for after the Protocol of
1847, whereby England, France, and Spain under-
12
HIS EETUEN TO LISBON.
took the pacification of Portugal, my father again
passed Madeira on his way to Lisbon from Angola
—^whither the British steamer "Terrible'' had been
sent for him—^restored to all his honours, the Go¬
vernment having been compelled to replace every¬
thing in the same order in -which it stood prior to
the national insurrection.
Thus we see that although liberty may be crushed
for a time she will at length arise and bear down all
opposition ; although she may for a time be fetter¬
ed with adamantine chains, her powerful throes
will eventually burst the strongest manacles by
which she is confined, and she will rise in all her
heaven-bestowed might.
This we see fully realized in the present day as
regards the Portuguese nation, when we behold the
youthful but precocious King Dom Pedro V., whom
God preserve, already fulfilling all the sympathiz¬
ing duties of the loving " father of his people."
The reader will please to excuse this digression
which I have made in endeavouring to account for
the various conflicting emotions by which my mind
was agitated when I landed on the beach at Fun-
chal, and which have inadvertently led me away
from my subject. If I seem chargeable with ego¬
tism, I must plead my sincere love for a venerable
parent, and an enthusiastic desire for the establish¬
ment of the liberal institutions of Portugal on a
firm basis, as my only excuse; and I feel convinced
FUNCHAL.
13
tliat, on mature consideration, all who are not too
fastidious will accept the apology as satisfactory.
But to return to my narrative. On my arrival
at Funchal I was met by a friend, Major Santos,
who manifested so much urbanity, and such anxiety
to minister to my comfort and enjoyment, that I
cannot find words sufficiently strong to express my
gratitude to him. After breakfast we took a ride
round a large portion of the island. At various
points of the several heights we stopped to view
the sublime scenery around and below us, until we
arrived at the Church of Nossa Senhora do Monte,
where I attended the festival service. Afterwards
I remained for some time witnessing the yard-
games of the emigrants, who had returned from
Demerara, whither they regularly proceed once a
year in large numbers to labour for a season, return¬
ing with their earnings from that unhealthy clime,
to enjoy the more salubrious air of their native
place. Yet, alas! several of those who leave home
each year, with hopeful anticipations of returning
with their feUow-islanders, fall victims to the
deadly nature of the climate, and are left to sleep
beneath its soil, until the voice of the trumpet shall
again awake them.
Although it is out of my province to write an
essay on political economy, yet I may be allowed
to say that it appeared to me that it would have
been better policy, both for the individuals, and for
-the mother country, if they had been settled in
14
PERIODICAL EMIGRATION.
the province of Alemtejo. By this periodical emi¬
gration of the inhabitants from Madeira to Demo¬
rara, and from the Azores to the Brazils, their
morals are more or less corrupted by contact with
unprincipled dealers in the bodies and bones of
their feUow-creatures, an occupation so demora¬
lising to the human character ; and returning, they
impart to their feUow-islanders (amounting, ac¬
cording to computation, to about 50,000—^Angra,
the capital of Terceira and of this group of nine
islands, having alone a population of about 13,000),
a lax feeling of morality, and are also much
weakened in the proper tone of genuine patriotism.
Would it not then be much more conducive to our
country's weal (I write as a Portuguese) to settle them
in this fertile province of Alemtejo, which, on pass¬
ing through, appeared as thinly inhabited as many
parts of Africa through which I have passed ? By so
doing, the people would be benefited, and the country
itself would be enriched by persevering industry.
A friend of mine was informed, on his arrival in
Africa, that each of his children was worth about
500Z. to him, in consequence of the scarcity of la¬
bour ; and if this view of the case is correct, by
sending labour out of the country so long as there
is sufficient soil for it'to operate upon, we only im-
poveiish the mother country, emigration. being
solely intended as an escape-valve, where there is
an excess of population.
The poor people whose hilarity I now witnessed
NOVEL MODE OE ASCENT.
15
seemed to enter with all their heart into the national
games in celebration of this festival. What at¬
tracted my attention most was the strange costume
worn*on the occasion, the high conical cap and large
yellow bools being the most conspicuous.
Their joyous mirth in returning to their father¬
land was not at all in consona¡nce with my feelings
at the time. I was now proceeding to a prover¬
bially deadly clime; should I ever return to
gladden the hearts of those sorrowful ones I had
left behind me ? These were some of the bitter
drops which, falling into my cup, qualified my pre¬
sent enjoyment.
Ih my excui;^ion up the steep-paved way towards
Nossa Senhora do Monte, what amused me most was
the manner in which our youthful guide ascended
with us. He had no horse, mule, ass, or any
other quadruped*wherewith to accompany us, and
yet he was ever present when we wanted his ser¬
vices. On enquiry, this was soon explained ; no
sooner had we left the town of Funchal, at the
base of the mountain, than he (as is customary) laid
hold of the long tail of the horse, and, with his legs
suspended on each side of the animal, holding fast
and taking long strides, as if on a velocipede, he
was enabled to be ever present when his services
were required.
On taking a survey from where we now stood,
I no longer questioned the propriety of calling the
island " The Flower of the Ocean." Not wishing
16
THE CORSA.
to descend by the same precipitous route by whicb
we had ascended, I prepared to return in one of those
vehicles or carriages 3enoniinated corsas (which,
having no wheels, might Inore approprial^y be
termed "sledges"). I secured myself in it mth a
long rope fastened "fore and aft," as the sailors
would say, a lad hglding at each extremity, and
proceeded down the zig-zag road, the one pulling
when necessary, the other checking its too hasty
progress ; and being thus "conveyed, as by a centri¬
fugal and centripetal motion, we-arrived safe at
the base, grateful, we trust, to Providence, without
sustaining any accident. We were informed that
not unfrequently severe contusions, and «ven
broken limbs, were received in the. rapid descent
The sledge was not unlike the " Russian iftount^"
chariot or cart, now called the " Egyptmn," a name
which in our days of novelty may soon be changed
to "Chiuese," or more appropriately to that of
" Barbarian ;" but as I was informed it was fashion¬
able to descend in that manner, I adopted it,
remembering the old adage, "Better out of the
world than out of the fashion but henceforth I
would prefer to use the more tedious balloon, ra¬
ther than so rapid a descent in the parachute.
When we arrived "all right" at our Mend's
hospitable mansion, luncheon was prepared in old
English style—^indeed, everything seems to take its
tone from England. When we had satisfied the
cravings of our earthly appetite, we commenced
THE LEVADA d'AGÜA,
17
another ride, and proceeded towards the splendid
Palheiro. Ferreira, the property of the youthful
Count de Garvalhal, who has most extensive wine
farms, -and many '^Cazeiros" or farmers, who all
seemed to be in a most flourishing condition. I was
reminded t5f the Hungarian Prince, who, when
visiting*the extensive flocks of an English nobleman,
being asked, " What do you think of my 10,000
sheep ?" replied, " Well, they appear in good order,
and are no doubt in befter condition than my
fl®^s, which are tended by 10,000 shepherds."
Being aware that, as soon as the steamer com¬
pleted her*^ coaling, she would hasten her departure,
I proceeded, in company with my friends, to visit
some other places. We visited the Levada d'Agua,
wlflch conveys water through a tunnel to a consi¬
derable distance. . As I was informed by my friend,
it was projected 6y the clever engineer, General
Guerra. It is a most beneficial work, and well
worthy of note. We also saw the churches of Nossa
Benhora do Cafliao and of S. Pedro, or St. Peter ;
the Mercado, or market-place; the Praça Imperatriz,
or Empress Place; and the Rua da Princeza
I>ona Amelia, or Princess Dona Amelia Street,
named after the late much-lamented daughter of the
Em^rOr's second wife, and widow of the im-
inortal Dom Pedro, Duke of Braganza. This young
and beautiful Princess died of consumption on the
island.
VOL. I. c
18
RESIDENTS IN FUNCHAL.
A number of the buildings in Funcbal are in the
old English style, the rents of which are considered
high ; and the inhabitants obtain their means of
subsistence principally by letting them to the
visitors who frequent the island.
The failure of the vine is also a great drawback
to the Government, as well as to the inhabitants
generally, as wine is the principal source of revenue,
and the trade in it gives rise to a considerable cir¬
culation of money.
The foreigners resident in Funchal are numerous.
There is also a number of mercantile houses; of
these there are four American, twenty-six English,
thirty-three Portuguese, three Sardinian, one Swiss,
and one connected with Hamburg.
The Consular staff is very numerous on the
island : Austria has a consul; Belgium a vice-con¬
sul; Brazil a vice-consul; Denmark a consul; France
a consular agent; Great Britain a consul and a vice-
consul; Greece a consul and a vice-consul; the
Hanse Towns a vice-consul; Holland a vice-consul ;
New Granada a consul; the Papal States a vice-
consul ; Peru a consul ; Prussia a consul ; Russia
a vice-consul ; Sardinia a consul ; Spain a consul
and a vice-consul; Sweden and Norway a vice-
consul ; Turkey a vice-consul ; United States a
consul and a vice-consul; Uruguay a consul and
a vice-consul ; in all, 25.
This large staff of officials is not to be wondered
at, as from the peculiar position of this island, many
government ce madeira.
19
trading and other vessels call en route to and from
distant ports, independent of the ships engaged in
the trade carried on with the island itself.
According to a late census, there are 24,645
hearths on the island. The number of inhabitants
is calculated at 107,088, of which the capital has
about 30,000. The island is divided into two dis¬
tricts, the Eastern and Western, each district send¬
ing two "Deputados," or representatives, to the
" Cortes," or National Parliament at Lisbon. Each
district has also a Judge, who administers the
law. The MUitary Governor is the chief civil
magistrate, and has under his orders ten "Adminis¬
tradores de Concelhos," or civil magistrates, in
Madeira and Porto Santo. These two islands form
a Bishop's see, comprehending 47 " Freguezias," or
parishes. The Administraçoes de Concelhos," or
civil magistracies, are the following :—
In Madeira. — Calheta, " the Small Creek ; "
Camara de Lobos, "theWolves' Den;" Funchal,
" a place set with fennel ; " Machico * ; Ponta do
Sol, "Sun's Point;" Porto Moniz; S. Vicente;
Santa Anna ; and Santa Cruz, or Holy Cross.
* The magifitracy of Machico has its name from Robert Machim,
the hero of a romance, who sailed from England in 1344, together
with Anna, d'Arfet ; they endeavoured to escape the vengeance of that
lady's friends, by landing on the Coast of France ; but being driven to
sea by contrary winds, they landed at Machico in Madeira, which
island, according to this supposed fabulous story, was unknown
until then. However, a cross is still shewn there, marking the place
where they were buried.
c 2.
20
trade of the island
In Porto Santo—Porto Santo, or Holy Port
Notwithstanding the great drawback caused by
the vine disease, the trade of the island is still very
considerable. There were exported during the year
1849,14,445 "pipas" (pipes) ; 1850,13,875; 1851,
12,356; 1852, 5,676^. Of the 5,676¿ pipes for the
year 1852, there had been exported to America,
1,954pipes; Africa, 69; Asia, 213; Brazils, 34;
England, 1,234¿ ; Oceania, 6 ; other European
ports, 2,166. The revenue from the customs for
the year 1857 alone amounted to 18,762/.
The number and tonnage of vessels inwards and
outwards bound, as registered at the Custom-house,
were:—Inwards, 269 vessels, 53,540 tons, 3,227
men; outwards, 275 vessels, 56,200 tons, 3,316
men.
It is reported that, in 1854, 107 English vessels
entered the port, with cargoes valued at 68,400/.,
a number nearly double that of the Portuguese.
The garrison of Madeira, for the defence of the
island and for the protection of commerce, consisted
of one infantry battalion of 400 men, and one com-,
pany of artillery of 80 men. All the troops on the
island are changed for others from Portugal
From the town I went to see the wine farms,
of which Malvasia,. Boal, and Tinta, are the
wines the most celebrated ; and although they had
suffered severely from " the disease," they now ap¬
peared in good condition ; and I was informed that
the vines were returning to their former healthy
NAUTICAL ACADEMY.
2Î
state, the disease having almost entirely disap¬
peared.
The famous Infante Dom Henrique of Portugal
(son of Don Joap I.) is said to have established in
that country the first nautical Academy and Obser¬
vatory, at Sagres, to which the kingdom is mainly
indebted for the celebrated discoveries and con¬
quests which afterwards astonished the civilized
world, and immortalized the Portuguese name, be-
^tiiiing with the discovery in 1418, by Bartholo¬
mew Perestrello, of Porto Santo (or the Holy Port,
a name given by the mariner, grateful for the safety
and comfort enjoyed in it, after passing through so
many dangers of the deep), followed, in 1419, by
that of Madeira, by Joao Gonçalves Zarco and
Tristaô Vaz Teixeira, who gave that name to the
island in consequence of the great quantity of tim¬
ber (Madeira) growing on it. It is smd that
the forest of trees was so dense that, having been
ignited by some means, it continued burning for
seven years, b^ore the fire became extinct ; after
which it is recorded the learned Infante gave
orders that the island should be planted with the
sugar-cane, brought from the island of Sicily ; as
also the vine producing the Malvasia wine from the
island of Candia. Such appears to be the origin of
the Madeira vineyards, the cuttings or plants of
which were subsequently Sent in large quantities
to the Cape of Good Hope.
The picturesque cottages, surrounded by quintas,
22
VARIOUS PRODUCTIONS.
or gardens, stocked with numerous European fruit-
trees, together with many tropical plants and trees,
form a beautiful and enlivening prospect, thé farms
being so well cultivated ; and I was particularly
pleased by witnessing the extensive cultivation of the
Inhame (yam), a root held in much estimation by
the country people, who use it as a substitute for
bread. It resembles large potatoes, but in taste is
sweeter to the palate.
The cereals cultivated are not sufficient for tit
consumption of the islanders. There is a large ex¬
port of coffee, which some assert is superior in
flavour to the far-famed Mocha ; orchiUa is also
exported. The sugar, although produced in com¬
paratively smalL quantities, is said to be of an ex¬
cellent quality, and so highly approved, that the
cane was transplanted to the Brazils—St. Paul
(formerly St. Yincent) thus giving the first impetus
to the extensive and lucrative Brazilian sugar
trade. But the principal trade of Madeira has
been in wine, which in its halcyon days was ex¬
ported (as already shewn) to the extent of an
average of from twelve to fifteen thousand pipes.
The various other productions of the island
were :—
♦ The moio is equal to sixty alqueiresi, and ope alqueire is à little
more than a bushel.
Beans
291 moios.*
broad
112- „
1,128 „
328 „
Barley
Chesnuts
INVALIDS. 23
Honey
110 arrobas (each 32 lbs.)
Inhame .
. 6,971 „
Lemons .
977 milheiros (thoijsands)
Lentiles .
13 moios
Maize
371 „
Oranges .
2,755 milheiros
Potatoes .
1,065 moios
Rye . :
389 „
Sük
36 lbs.
Walnuts .
54 moios
Wax
29 arrobas
Wheat
3,365 moios
Wool
8,622 arrobas
As I proceeded on
my way, I met ever and anon
the neat light palanquins, with their showy cur¬
tains, each borne on the shoulders of two stalwart
men, who went cheerily along, as if honoured by
conveying their fair burden. My pleasure at be¬
holding their cheerfulness was afterwards damped
by being informed that ^n general they were con¬
veying, for the benefit of the air, some beautiful
young European maiden, attacked by that insidious
disease, consumption. The majority of the invalids
on this island are sufferers from this complaint, the
physicians at home ordering them, as a dernière reS'
source, to this salubrious climate, in the hope that
they may arrive here before the disease has obtained
the mastery over nature and science. The larger
number of the invalids come from England; and I am
persuaded that if they reached Madeira before the
disease had obtained the mastery, many more would
return convalescent, the climate being particu¬
larly favourable for all who suffer from pulmonary
24
PLANTS AND ANIMALS.
diseases, as tlie island is one of the most healthy on
the globe—except, indeed, when Providence sends
that mysterious disease the cholera, which has swept
away some thousands of the inhabitants ; but, with
regard to this plague, we must say, with the worldly-
wise men of the King of Egypt, " This is the finger
of God."
Among the animals I met with were lizards,
spiders, and frogs ; however, I saw a large number
of domestic animals, of which, I was informed, there
were then on the island—asses, 210 ; cattle, 20,682';
goats, 84,732; horses, 402; mules, 96; pigs,
76,146; sheep, 90,894.
There are numerous birds, of various kinds. Of
fish there is a good supply from the sea, but the
only fresh water species I saw was the eel. Mr.
Lowe, an English naturalist, has said that he dis¬
covered 70 species of sea-fish, but only one in
fresh water. Of this number 44 appear as new to
the colony ; there is also a large quantity of shrimps
exposed for sale.
Having mentioned Mr. Lowe, I may here add
that he enumerated 743 different species of plants
on the island. He also observes that the confor¬
mation of Madeira indicates a volcanic origin.
There are numerous minerals to be found in dif¬
ferent situations, and we were informed that re¬
cently gold had been discovered.
The largest number of the invalids on the island
being English, they have their own doctors and
EDUCATION,
25
apothecary. The shop of the latter is one of the
most tastefully fitted up of any of this description
which I have ever before seen, and the compounder
and dispenser of the medicines is very-clever in his
profession. I understood that the doctors were
very skilful in their treatment of that insidious dis¬
ease, consumption, with which most of their pa¬
tients are afflicted.
There is also a neat church, to* which is attached
a well laid out cemetery.
I met with several highly educated and talented
Portuguese doctors, among whom was the late Dr.
Moniz, formerly Portuguese Commissioner at the
Cape of Good Hope. There are also the Military
and Civil hospitals, as well as the Medical and Sur¬
gical School established by Government, which has
two professors and a demonstrator, and ten students.
The Portuguese government has of late manifested a
most praiseworthy desire to educate the population,
in consequence of which many public and private
schools have been established. The Government
schools of "Instrucqao Primaria," or elementary
schools, for boys, are 13, and have 721 boys at-
tendbg. There is also one for girls, which has
about 172 pupils. Of the above-mentioned schools
of "Instrucçao Primaria" there are three pri¬
vate schools for boys, having an attendance of about
209 ; and eight for girls, with about 154 attending,
making a total of 25 schools, and 1,256 scholars of
both sexes. The Government schools of " Instruc-
26
CLIMATE.
çaô Secundaria," or secondary instruction, for boys,
are six in number, with 123 scholars ; and there are
six private schools of the same description for girls,
with 328 scholars, making a total of twelve schools
and 451 scholars. The clergy have also a seminary,
which is conducted by three professors. If I was
rightly informed, the number of students availing
themselves of the instruction provided by this insti¬
tution was seventeen.
Returning to town, we visited the Government
House, the Castle, the squares, promenades, &c.
The shops we found stocked with miscellaneous
articles, particularly suited to the wants of the
voyager.
The want of proper streets is a great drawback
to the comfort of the inhabitants of Funchal—the
usual means of locomotion being a species of car-,
riage, or rather sleigh, having no wheels, with cur¬
tains ; it is drawn by oxen, having small bells at¬
tached to the neck, which are continually tinkling
as they proceed along.
With regard to the climate, it may be truly said
that the islanders may select any of the three
zones ; on the shore they may have the torrid, in
the centre of the island the temperate, and high up
in the mountains the frigid. From these more ele¬
vated regions a quantity of ice is conveyed to town,
which, to those arriving from the tropics, is a most
welcome luxury.
In the evening I was invited to dine with a friend.
A ROMANTIC HISTORY.
27
ia eoînp«fty'^th Iiis young and beautiful wife, a
lovely Spatób lady. He had brought her with him
to Madeira, in order to introduce her to an aged
mother, whom he had not seen for a number of
years. He also had obtained an appointment at
Angola, to which place he was about to proceed ;
but, alas! we know not what a day may bring forth I
—^in twenty days after our arrival in Africa he was
attacked by a violent fever, to which he fell a victim
in twenty-four hours, leaving his young and beauti¬
ful wife, with a babe born but the day before her
beloved husband's death. Under the circumstances
an appeal to the sympathies of the public was made,
and nobly responded to. A relief fund was pro¬
vided, and a free passage in a government vessel ob¬
tained to Lisbon, whef« she was consigned to the
care of friends, with a request that she would write
to inform her relatives of her peculiarly distressed
circumstances. She was from Malaga, and was only
fourteen years old when her husband met her. Her
short history was a very romantic-one. He was a
fine young man, at that time engaged in the con¬
traband trade. Falling in love with her, and fearful
of opposition from her family, he induced her to
elope with him. They arrived at a small farm-house
not far from the frontier. Her family having
learned their route, telegraphed the particulars,
and commenced a hot pursuit. The landlord
of the house where they stopped took them aside,
informing them that he had authority to capture
28
ENGLISH MANNERS.
them, and it was therefore necessary they should
not stir abroad for fear of being seen, until he
found an opportunity of providing some means for
their escape, as, if now discovered, they would com¬
promise him. He said he hoped to be enabled to
get them conveyed to Elvas, a frontier town of
Portugal, and one of the most important strongholds
of the kingdom. This he accomplished by dressing
the young lady as a "muletero,"or muleteer,in which
disguise she arrived safe at her destination, where
some employment was obtained for the young man
on the estate of the young Count Bomfitn. He had
not been long here when a young, beautiful, and
rich English widow, falling in love with him,
offered him the agency of her estates, which, coming
to the knowledge of his betrothed, she took the
alarm ; they were immediately married, and fled to
Lisbon, where a friend obtained for him the African
apl)ointment before alluded to.
It was at his mother's house we dined. The din¬
ner was served up in good English style ; indeed it
appeared as if the manners and customs were be¬
coming completely Anglicised—I suppose from the
large concourse of English, who, together with
many other foreigners, are constantly resident in
Madeira; and no doubt to the same cause may
be attributed the evident prosperity of the island,
the efficiency of its police, its improved sanitary
regulations, the elegance and comfort displayed in
social life—all of which conduce so miuch to the
VISIT TO A NUNNERY.
29
comfort and enjoyment of the traveller, imparting
to him, during his casual wit, all the comforts of a
terrestrial Eden.
At night I was invited to numerous soirées, I
selected one, the invitation to which came from an
old friend of my father's, when Captain-General of
Madeira. There I met the beauty and fashion of
the island—I was going to say of the world, for
there were some from all parts of the earth ; and if
not exactly from the same places, they were doubtless
as various in nation and in speech as those assembled
at Jerusalem on the day of Pentecost. Some con¬
versed fluently in different languages, according to
the peculiar nation to which the individual ad¬
dressed belonged. There was also a splendid display
of artificial flowers, which even the bee or butterfly
might be excused for taking as real, so perfect was
the imitation, I was informed that a member of
our host's family had obtained a handsome prize for
some sent to the late London Exhibition of all
nations.
Before I left, we visited the nunnery, and par¬
took of the celebrated Batatada, a sweet potato
jam prepared by the nuns ; and we would take this
opportunity of recommending "callers at the island"
to visit these ladies, not dnly to satisfy their curi¬
osity in this particular, and to seè the artifi¬
cial flowers formed by them from feathers, which
are weU worth seeing, but that, like us, they may
be charmed by the instrumental and vocal peifor-
30
THE SIGÍÍAL-GUN.
manees of the novices, whose angelic countenances
and sweet expression produce a most pleasing im¬
pression. There are two convents, containing 116
nuns.
The diocese of the Bishop of Madeira was formed
as early as 1514. It is divided into 47 vicarages, to
each of which is attached a building or seminary
for the reception of seminarists, or scholars, similar
to those of the nunneries, all of which have a semi¬
nary connected with them.
But I must take a hasty leave of all my kind enter¬
tainers, as the signal-gun has been fired, announcing
that the ship is ready to sail, and calling all pas¬
sengers immediately on board. So we hastened
down to the beach, as I was informed we were to
embark at five o'clock. Whilst waiting on the
quay, I addressed a smart little fellow who was
standing there, and asked, " Would he like to come
with me ? " " No, Sir," was his prompt reply.
"Why not? " said I, "there are a great many peo¬
ple where I am going." "Yes," said he, ^^and I
know what kind of life you have spent that you- are
sent there." This reply brought to my mind the
fact, which at the moment I had forgotten, namely,
that Angola is a penal settlement, to which Portu¬
gal sends her convicts. Laughing at the smart re¬
sponse, I stept into the boat and proceeded on
board the steamer, which now got under way, and
proceeded on her voyage. On leaving I much regret
not to have had an opportunity of visiting Fontal
Fontal da Cruz, Isle of Madeira.
DEPAETÜEE EBOM MADEIBA.
31
da Cruz, or Cross Point, situated on the port of the
same name, behind Porto Moniz, which extends
from Cape Grajao to the said Pontal, which is the
most southern point of the island, and consists of
a rock stretching out into the sea, and washed
by the waves. On the summit is fixed a small
iron cross, before which the seamen implore the
Divine protection and a successful voyage. If I
had called there, perhaps our voyage would have
been more prosperous. At a quarter to 8 o'clock
we lost sight of Madeira.
82
CHAPTER IL
The Canaries—^Teneriffe—S. Vicente—The Kloofs—Hospitality of
the Commandant of S. Vicente—^The Town of Minddl<>—The
Agriculture of the Island—Santo Antaô—Yariety of Temperature
—^Emancipation of the Slaves—Santa Luzia—^Its Ports and Ancho¬
rages—Character of the Natives—The Climate and Soil—^Isle of
Sal—Abundance of Fish—^The Salt-Pits—Boa Vista.
Being favoured with a stiff breeze, we soon came in
sight of Teneriffe, which we were informed is. visi¬
ble on a clear day at the distance of 140 miles. The
peak raises its majestic head 12,236 feet above the
level of the sea. The group of islands, of which.
Teneriffe is the chief, belongs to Spain. It is sup¬
posed that in one of Nature's mighty throes she
heaved up those lofty mountains (which are evi¬
dently of volcanic ori^n) from the bosom of the
deep. The islands are seven in number ; the three
principal being Teneriffe, Grand Canary, and Palma.
These islands are said to be very fertile ; the pro¬
duction of wine alone is annually about 54,000
THE CAPE VEBDE ISLANDS.
33
pipes. They have a population of nearly 203,000.
Having passed the Canaries, we came in sight of
the Cape Verde Islands, which are divided into two
groups, respectively distinguished as the Windward
and Leeward Islands. Those composing the Lee¬
ward group are Maio, or May; St. Jago, or St.
James; Fogb, or Fire—having a volcano; and
Brava, or wild; together with some small islets,
and several shoals, the most considerable of which is
the Baixo (shoal) of Joäo LeitSo, lying between
the islands of Boa Vista, or Fine View, and Maio.
The sea around the Caipe Verde Islands abounds
with fish, particularly near the Baixo, where also
a lucrative whale-fishery has been cárried on.
The Windward Islands are Santo Antâo, or St.
Anthony ; S. Vicente, or St. Vincent ; Santa Luzia,
or St. Lucy ; S. Nicolao, or St. Nicholas ; Sal, or
salt ; and Boa Vista—^with their islets, Branco
(white), and Razo (level).
As the day pn which we arrived was clear and
lovely, we had a very extensive prospect. As we
drew near we beheld, in the-far distant horizon, a
small black speck, when the look-out man at the
masthead exclaimed aloud, " Santo Antao ! " It
soon proved that he was correct. The high moun¬
tains of Santo AntSo, which are visible on a clear
dayasfaras fifty-four miles, even from the deck, were
now discernible. The altitude of the highest peak,
Päo de Assucar, or Sugar Loaf, is 8,000 feet ; and
the tops of the Corda, or Rope ; and of the Caldeira,
VOL. I. D
34
SANTO ANTAO.
or Boiler, so called on account of the crater of the
volcano, are respectively from 5,000 to 6,000 feet
above the level of the sea. The summits of the
other mountains are about 2,000 feet high.
We passed close to this island, which is the se¬
cond in size of the " Cape Verde Archipelago." It
lies N.E. and S.W., and is about 24 miles long by
12 broad. We sailed so close that we could plainly
discern the cattle browsing on the side of the
mountains ; the beautiful vineyards, the numerous
fruit-trees and cotton plants, presenting altogether,
with a number of neat whitewashed cottages, a
most picturesque appearance.
Having passed the " Cara," or hill, the top of
which has some resemblance to a man, as the
mountam which the traveller sees on entering Table
Bay, Cape of Good Hope, has to a lion, we at
length anchored in the extensive and beautiful bay
of Porto Grande, or Great Port. The name is very
appropriate, asit affords safe anchorage to about 200
or 300 vessels at one time. When we arrived, there
were no fewer than forty-seven merchant vessels, of
different tonnage, from various nations^ the greater
number of which had conveyed coals to the island,
as it is a coal-depôt for aU the steamers running
between ports in Europe, and in Brazil and Africa.
On .some days as many as six or seven vessels
call here for coals. This of course conduces
muehj to the prosperity of S. Vicente, and Santo
Antäoj both of which islands daily exhibit the
s. VICENTE.
35
signs of Increasing commercial prosperity. The
captains of vessels hnd it a great convenience to
obtain coals and secure anchorage in the former,
and a plentiful supply of good water and refresh¬
ment at the latter.
The water of S. Vicente is considered rather brack¬
ish, especially near the harbour of Porto Grande.
There is another bay S.W. of the island, called S.
Pedro, which is well sheltered in the stormy season,
capable of containing ships drawing from six to
seven feet water, and having a clean sandy bot¬
tom. Here good water may be obtained near to
thé beach, by sinking to some depth in the sand.
There is a great influx of passengers from Eu-
rope, Africa, and America ; these, together with the
crews of the numerous vessels, contribute much to
the increase of the wealth of the islanders. The
splendid Porto Grande is considered one of the best
ports in the Portuguese colonies. It lies to the N.W.
of the island, and is open towards the North, in which
direction there is a high islet, Ilheo dos Passaros, or
Bird's Islet, situated at the extreme boundary of the
bar, which if well fortified would constitute a very re¬
spectable defence. The entrance to the harbour is about
three miles wide, and about two miles deep, aiford-
ing sufficient anchorage for 200 ships of the great¬
est toïmage. It is sheltered, by the high chain of
mountaihs of Santo Antäo, from the violence of the
north winds, and thus forms a safe channel between
the island of Santo Antäo and the harbour of Porto
D 2
36
LANDING AT S. VICENTE.
Grande. The three other points are protected by
the mountains of S. Vicente, which form a crescent
around two-thirds of the harbour. Occasionally
the mariner experiences sudden gusts of ladnd,
which come through what are called in Souihern
Africa "kloofs," or openings between the moun¬
tains, the sea in the meantime preserving its usual
serenity, and being so clear that the sand and peb¬
bles on the bottom can be clearly discerned at the
depth of three fathoms.
Early next morning our doctor received a sum¬
mons to attend the only medical adviser that re¬
sided on the island, who was himself unwell. I was
invited to go with him, as an interpreter of English,
and also to give instructions to the managers of the
coaling department respecting the arrangements
necessary for the conveyance of coals on board the
steamer. I therefore went on shore, and although
the sea is in general calm, on this occasion there
was a very high surf, which drenched all who were
in the open boat. We landed at a long wooden
wharf of the steam companies, extending to a con¬
siderable distance along a beach of sand. The wet¬
ting from the spray is considered dangerous, not
only here but at all the islands on the western
coast, as the " calema," as it is called, is said to en¬
gender fevers and other diseases; we were therefore
requested to partake of some brandy and water as
an antidote or preventive.
The period of my visit to the island was a most
PREVALENCE OF YELLOW FEVER. 37
inauspicious one, the yellow fever being then rife.
It was with great difficulty that we could obtain
sufficient hands to coal the steamer, as the majority
of the persons usually so employed were now en¬
gaged administering to the urgent necessities
of their relatives and friends. We were informed
that the complaint had been so deadly that the po¬
pulation was literally decimated by its ravages.
Indeed, a general apathy appeared to pervade
society, aU being apparently stupefied by terror.
The consequence was that, being unable to obtain
the assistance we required, we were detained for
some days longer at S. Vicente.
Having rendered all the assistance in my powerto
the doctor, and made every necessary arrangement
to expedite the coaling of the vessel, I went, ac¬
companied by a friend and the doctor, to look
out for a suitable residence. It would have been
imprudent to think of returning on board, at the risk
of communicating the contagion to our fellow-
passengers.
The Commandant of the Island kindly offered
us the use of his own house. Fearing, however,
that he might have a family of his own, and that
his residence might be insufficient to afford so
much additional accommodation, we expressed our
gratitude for his polite and gentlemanly offer, and
went to the English hotel. Even here we found most
of the inmates confined to bed ; and although those
we spoke to offered to make everything as com-
38 VALUABLE SERVICES OE "OUR DOCTOR."
fortable as circumstances would admit we were
obliged to continue our search, with the determina¬
tion to take possession of the first house where we
could obtain even indifferent accommodation. Most
of the houses we passed were deserted and shut up,
the former occupants either being dead, or having
escaped from the contagion of the city to a more
salubrious part of the island. So great were our
difficulties on this occasion as regards provisions,
that we were obliged to send a communication to
the ship, requesting a supply for our immediate
wants ; for as far as we could discover, the quantity
on board was much more ample than any that could
be obtained on shore.
As the doctor's time was entirely occupied in at¬
tending to the sick, and tjie- friend who accom¬
panied me also considered it his duty to render
them all the assistance in his power, I was at length
left to myself. No I I oiight not to say so—gratitude
to a gracious preserving Providence should rather
cause me to say, " He alone preserved me and my
friends, amidst the swift-flying shafts of death."
I believe our doctor was instrumental in saving
the lives of a great number of the inhabitants, my
friend in the meantime obtaining and supplying
provisions. I was fortunately enabled to assist
them with what was of real value under those pe¬
culiar circumstances, namely, a timely supply of
quinine, etc., which I had been commissioned to
leave at the island of St. Thome, but a portion of
MINDELLO.
33
whicli I considered myself justified ii; furnishing on
an occasion when the demand was so urgent, espe¬
cially as the supply previously brought by a brig
of war had already been completely exhausted.
During my stay I took the opportunity of visit¬
ing the country. The island was ^scovered at the
same time as S. Nicolao, in 1465, and "vy^as
the Duke of Vizeu, in the expectation tjiat he
would have colonized it from the neighbouring
islands. Strange to say, it remained unnoticed until
the eighteenth century, an order being issued in
1781 fijr its colonization. Yet it was not until 1795
that this measure was carried into effect. In that
year Joáo Carlos de Fonceca, an inhabitant of Fogp
Island, obtained permission from Government to
people it with twenty couples from Fogoj and
these, with the slav^ whom they had brought with
them, were the first inhabitants. Joäo Carlos de
Fonceca .was nominated Capitäo Mor, or Chief
Captain. The island is fifteen miles in length from
east tp west, and is surrounded by high mountains,
the principal of which are Monte Verde, or Green
Mountain, a^d Tope Galan, or Top-gallant. These
points, although not so high as those of S. Antäo,
tower majestically above the plains of sand which
extend to Porto Grande.
Mindello, the chief town of S. Vicente, situated
at Porto Grande, was founded by Viscount Sa da
Bandeira, the Portuguese minister who has effepted
the greatest amount pf good for the colonies of
40
APPEAEANCE OF THE CAPITAL.
Portugal. He was desirous to make this the
metropolis of all the islands, but Villa da Praya,-
the Beach Town," in Santiago, is at present con¬
sidered the capital. In the sickly season, the
Governor-General is obliged to remove to the small
neighbouring island of Prava, which is considered
more healthy.
S. Vicente has been found to be the most
healthy of all the Cape Verde Islands ; and for this
reason, as well as on account of the safe harbour
and good anchorage, it has been selected as the
coaling depot for all vessels on this route.
The houses are in number from 150 to 200, and
very small j they are built of stone, but as mere
inud is used, as mortar, the elements speedily make
sad havoc of them. The combined effects of sun,
rain, and wind secure to the habitations of the poor
the very necessary sanatory desideratum of Ventila^
tion, in the shape of innumerable small apertures,
caused by the removal of the clay. The obnoxious
vapours engendered by the united fumes of fish,
garlic, and tobacco, which are so offensive to the
nasal organs of the uninitiated, are thus completely
dispersed.
' The church is a new and very handsome build¬
ing. Not having been consecrated, it was turned
into a temporary hospital during the ravages of
the yellow fever. I saw between forty and fifty of
i)oth sexes and all ages l3dng on mats spread on
the floor in a most appalling state of pain ,and
CLIMATE OF THE ISLAND.
41
wretchedness, the sexes being separated by cur¬
tains.
The fortress is situated on a hill, and com-
mailds the town and bay. It appeared to be a
new building, surrounded by strong white walls,
and mounting twelve good guns, twenty-four and
eighteen pounders. There is also a comfortable
residence for the Governor, barracks for the garri¬
son, good store of ammunition, and a powder-
magazine
The Custom-house is a fine building. The
Government receives a good revenue through this
department. I was informed that the year pre¬
vious it amounted to 6,000/., in consequence of the
increased trade carried on by the steamers. There
is also a large revenue derived fi*om the trade
in orchilla, which grows on the rocks around the
island.
The climate appeared delightful, and the morning
breeze coming from the sea imparted a refreshing
coolness, which was most exhilarating. Having a
great desire for a ride or drive, I applied for some
means of locomotion, but was informed there were
no carriages nor horses obtainable. I was therefore
compelled to be satisfied with a more humble
means of conveyance. Donkeys were provided,
and I was favoured with the company of a black
priest. With merely a piece of packing-cord for
rçins, we proceeded to visit the other bay behind
the mountains, as I wished to see the farms and
42
VIEW FROM A MOUNTAIN-TOP.
plantations in tke interior, the watering-places,
<&c.
Passing near the hill, we commenced our ascent
of the mountain, which we effected with great dif¬
ficulty, being sometimes obliged to dismount and
cHmb up on all fours, and at others to slide down.
By theSe means, after muchvfatigue, we arrived at
the summit ; but I regret to be obliged to say that,
contrary to my expectations, we were not repaid
for our toil, as far as our immediate neighbourhood
was concerned. All we could see was a green spot
here tind there, which looked like small oases dotted
over parched sterile plains. The only compensatio^
I had for my laborious ascent was the distant view
of S. Vicente, which, from ^the exalted position I
now occupied, aided by the clear atmosphere, I
could discern, with its beautiful bay in the distance,
and the vdde-spread Atlantic, whose blue waters
and white-crested waves rolled majestically north¬
wards, and appeared tq me truly sublime.
We now prepared for our descent, which certainly
appeared a more formidable undertaking than our
ascent ; the soil was so sqft that it receded before
us when we pressed upon it. Indeed, the incline
was so steep, and the ground so soft, that at one
time I was considering whether it would not be
more advisable to lie down in a horizontal position
and roll down; however, I avoided the temptatipn,
bnd by patience and perseverance we overcame this
pfflculty also ; and it was with most pleasurable
PASTURAGE AND FARMING.
43
•feelings, as might be discovered by our smiling
countenances, that we remounted our animals. We
now passed down a deep pathway formed by the
watercourse during the rains, which continue for a
few days only. After proceeding for some distance
along this course, which is graphically described as
the " Seasons' Road," we at length emerged from it
upon the plain, where were a number of stunted
shrubs, with leaves resembling those of the cedar,
and a blossom-like lavender, with a faint perfume.
In the ravines of the mountains there are large
trees, which a,fford sufficient fuel for the islanders.
The pasturage appeared of an excellent quality,
and upon it were browsing a number of oxen, cows,
and donkeys, some sheep, and a great number of
goats.
If we are to judge of the quality and value of the
farms by that belonging to the priest, which is the
one we examined most particularly, and which we
were informed was in better order than any other
on the island, we must candidly confess that we
could not form a very high idea of the agricultu¬
ral skill of the inhabitants.
We were informed that there are scarcely any
farms, except those in the only valley which is
capable of cultivation, called Ribeira do Juliäo, the
Valley of "Julian's River;" near to which are the
only two springs of water, called respectively Madei-
ral, and Madeiralzinho, or timber and little timber.
The farm we visited consisted of several small
44
VISIT TO A SALT PIT.
terraces, on whicli grew the sugar-cane, coffee, In¬
dian com, vine, banana, plantain, and a great
^ -
variety of European and tropical plants. Water
is essential for their nourishment ; of this indispen¬
sable element a bountiful supply trickles from the
mountain caves in the immediate neighbourhood.
The farms of each proprietor are from twelve to
twenty acres in extent. We are injustice compelled
to say that, considering the limited means of their
owners (notwithstanding our preconceived ideas)
the state of cultivation in which they appeared, at
least in the distance, as we passed along, was on the
whole creditable.
There were a few fruit-trees, which are begin¬
ning to be more generally cultivated ; as also the
cotton-plant, the senna-plant, a plant called the
"glándula,'* which is said to be an antidote against
that fatal disease, the glanders.
Each farm is provided with a "hute" or resi¬
dence for the people connected with it.
We afterwards went to see the "salina," or salt
pit, which ought to be considered a great acquisition,
as it produces from eight to fifteen moios (a mea¬
sure equal to sixty alqueires, each alqueire being a
little larger than an English bushel). It appears,
however, to be much neglected, as large quantities
can be obtained from the island of Maio and Boa
Vista, and also from the island of Sal, which alone
produces more than 15,000 moios. Those thi^
Mands were termed by Flemish writers of the se-
THE THHEE SALT ISLANDS.
45
venteenth century, " The three salt islands." The
best or crystalized salt is obtained at the salt pans
formed by nature on the north side of the island of
Boa Vista ; the next in quality is that from the is¬
land of Sal ; the third is from Maio. The prefer¬
ence is given to that produced by the Salina Velha,
or old salt pit. That obtained from the artificial
salt pits of the port Sal-Rey, or Salt King, in the is¬
land of Boa Vista, is considered very inferior. The
salt at the island of Sal is obtained from a large
basin in the centre of the island, where the salt
water springs up ; and so strongly is it impregnated
with saline particles, that when the water is evapo¬
rated by the influence of the sun's rays, ridges of salt
are formed around the edge of the basin-, which have
increased to such an incredible height as to present
an appearance something like the glaciers of the Alps,
or some of those mountains covered with the sun-
bleached sand which often dazzles the eyes of the
African traveller.
I was informed that a gentleman, Mr, Martins,
undertook at his own expense to cut a tunnel
through one of those mountains of salt, thus short¬
ening the communication with the port more than
three miles ; and that having completed the tunnel,
and obtained from England some rails, he
therewith formed a tramway on an inclined
plane. To save the expense of steam, sails are at¬
tached to each carriage, by which dt is propelled
from the salt pits to the south ports, where a wharf
46
PORTO DOS CARVCKEIROS.
has been erected, est which the loads are discharged,
the empty waggons being then drawn up to the
salt pits by donkeys. For this information I am
indebted to á friend, on whose veracity I can de¬
pend.
The respective prices of salt are as follows
island of Sal, 215.; the island of Boa Vista, uniform¬
ly 7s,; the island of Maio, 155.
Several nations have consulates established on
the island of S. Vicente. Austria has a consular
agenl^ Belgium a vice-consul, Brazil a vice-consul,
Denmark a "nee-consul, and Greece a vice-consul.
Next morning, at daybreak, I went, in company
with two friends, on board a small boat, and, cross¬
ing the bay, entered the broad channel which di¬
vides the two islands of S. Vicente and Santo An-
täo. 'We landed at the Porto dos Carvoeiros, or
Coal-men's Port, from which point a road is carried
tóéct across the whole island to Garça, or Heron,
a distance of twelve miles from north to south.
The breadth of the island from Paul, the pool,
on the north-east, to Tarrafal, the fishing-*
place, on the south-west, is about twenty-four
imlès.
Portodos Carvoeiros, which is now becomingbetter
lâiown, is "visited by ships exporting coffee to various
parts of Europe. We proceeded hence along the footr
rflid for about nine miles, when we arrived at the*
Villa da RibeW Grande, or Town of the Great
River, lormerly Santa Cruz, or Holy Cross, a town
VILLA DA KIBEIRA GRANDE.
47
founded by a count bearing this title. It is situ¬
ated in a very fertile plain, watered by the Ribeira
Grande, which, after running some distance in a
north-west direction, empties itself into a very
small bay. The town is situated at the confluence •
of the principal river, which is divided into several
streams, with another, and is built at the base of a
very high mountain. The suburbs are large, and
appear to great advantage, having a number of
houses inhabited by white proprietors. Close by
there is a hiU, which, from the high state of cultiva¬
tion in which its sides are generally kept, always
presents a greenish appearance. It is called the
Penha de França, or French Hill.
The town is large, having nearly 5000 inhabi¬
tants, but is very badly laid out. The houses, which
are built of stone and clay, are jumbled close toge¬
ther, forming numerous narrow, unhealthy lanes.
The wealthy proprietors have theirs roofed with
American wooden tiles, called shingles ; the others
are thatched with straw. There is also a neat
church dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Rosario, or
Our Lady of the Rosary.
Besides the barracks for the soldiers, there is also
the Presidio, a sort of castle.
As far as I could obtain information during my
two visits to the Cape Yerde Islands, the town is
healthy during the prevalence of high winds, but
in hot or rainy weather is very uncomfortable. As
far as I could learn, there are no sanatory laws.
48
TARRAFAL.
Adjoining the houses are gardens or plantations^
which extend until they join those of the two
neighbouring valleys.
The road from Porto dos Carvoeiros to the town
was by no means a good one; however, it improved
as we approached nearer to Ponta do Sol,* where
the Custom-house is placed on the most northern
point of the island, and which, although it is consir
dered the most indifferent port of Santo Antäo, is^
notwithstanding, the one most frequented, owing to
the prominent and convenient position which it
occupies on the sea-board.
Besides the Custom-house, we observed only six
dwdling-houses, built of stone and roofed with tiles,
three stores, a few huts, and a nice chapel, dedicated
to Nossa Senhora das Merces, or Our Lady of
Mercies.
Water is supplied by a fountain called Pray a de
Lisboa, or Beach of Lisbon, which springs up among
some rocks on the beach. There is great difficulty,
however, in conveying a sufficient supply to the
shipping, as it has to be brought by men swimming
with the casks to the beach, and returning in the
same manner.
We went next to Tarrafal, the third port of the
island. It is situated South-west, under a promon-
In 1711, the French, raider Du Guai Trouin, landed on the island;
jRiid ha^ñng to march through a difficult pass near this place, the inha¬
bitants congregated upon the high perpendicular, rocks which orer-
Sang the road, threw large stones on the heads of the French, and
BÉterly d^eated them.
MINERALS AND MDTBRAL SPRINGS. 49
tory ; it is well sheltered at all seasons, and has a
good supply of water from an unfailing stream,
which, flowing along the beach, falls into a well, fer-
tilizing the land in its progress. Being considered
inconvenient for shipping, the port has hitherto
been much neglected. Ships have called latterly for
cargoes of cofFee, which is abundant, and of a good
quality. A large supply of the various provisions
necessary for shipping may be obtained.
The mountains are very high, and abound in
such minerals as are the source of much wealth.
Freestone, iron, copper, brimstone, have been ex¬
tracted from them ; pumice-stone; and even such
precious stones as hyacinths, amethysts, topazes,
and garnets. There are also two mmeral springs,
which deserve particular notice : one possessing the
property of removing aU the hair from hides or
skins, the moment they are immersed in it ; and
the other that of immediately dyeing black the skins
thus prepared. The bountiful supply of good
water issuing from these mountains could be made
the means of a large revenue and increased wealth,
if rightly directed. At present it is allowed to
waste itself in other channels, by which it some¬
times inundates the plains below. These plains are
covered with plantations of maize, beans, sugar-cane,
tobacco, cotton, indigo in large quantities; coffee,
considered the best on the island, potatoes, in-
hame, manioca, vines, oranges, bananas, guava—^Ln
fact, all tropical fruits, in great variety and profusion.
VOL. I. E
5Ö
PRODUCTIONS.
Amongst other things the inhabitants manu¬
facture a quantity of Pannos d'Agulha, or needle
cloth, in which they carry on a good trade with
Guinea. Notwithstanding the great internal wealth
of the island, it is considered the poorest of this
archipelago.
It abounds in red gravel stone, or tophm'y the argil,
or potter's clay lime, volcanic lava mixed with
the basalt decompositions which fall from the high
mountains of Päo d'Assucar, Corda, Caldeira. The
height of the former, as before mentioned, is about
8,000 feet, and of the latter from 5000 to 6,000 ;
the medium height of the other mountains is about
2,000 feet-
The variety of temperature, combined with the
great variety of soil, renders Santo Antäo capable
of producing all the tropical and European fruits
found at Madeira. A great number of cattle of
various kinds are found on the island ; also domestic
fowls of every description. Large quantities of
orchilla are exported ; and there is a great variety
of such trees as the dragon-tree and the purgueira
{Jatropha Curcas)^ or physic-nut.
This island was first colonized by slaves carried
from Guinea by the Donatarios (grantees) of Santo
Antäo, who would not admit any Europeans. The
consequence was, that the inhabitants consisted
principally of the native home-bom slave popu¬
lation. Notwithstanding this restriction, however,
one now meets with a number of mulattos, with
THE ORIGINAL COLONISTS.
51
fair hair and blue eyes, the offspring of such white
men as have occasionally called there, and of the
low, immoral beings with whom they have as¬
sociated.
After the island reverted to the Crown, Queen
Dona Maria I., by a decree dated the 1st January,
1780, declared all the slaves free. In consequence,
however, of their degraded state, and the bar¬
barism into which they had sunk, they did not
seem to appreciate the boon, so enervating and so
destructive of correct moral principle is slavery in
all its phases, aided, in the present case, by a rabid
love of strong drink, and a distaste for labour.
About the beginning of the present century,
Europeans began to settle on the island ; cultivating
the ground and introducing civilization. About
the same time a colony of Spaniards arrived from
the Canaries, and settled on.the summit of the
Corda, and of Caldeira, where they commenced
cultivating wheat, barley, rye, &c.
The original colonists appear to have been par¬
ticular in keeping their European blood uncon-
taihinated by admixture with that of the natives.
The men of European descent that I saw were
generally white and rosy, and the women fair and
beautiful.
The principal mercantile houses, at the time of
my visit, were those of Mr. A. J. Martins, Mr.
A. J. Silva, and Mr. A. M. Süva.
We now took our leave of Santo Antäo. Get-
E 2
52
SANTA LUZIA.
ting into our boat, we crossed the channel separ*
ating it from S.Vicente; and having rounded the
latter, we neared the small island of Santa Luzia,
which is only distant from S. Vicente about five
miles, in a south-easterly direction, being 16° 44' N.
lat., and 15° 40' W. long, (from Lisbon.) *
Santa Luzia extends in a north-west direction,
and is about six miles long, and one mile and a half
broad at the south-east point, near to Ponta do
TaraiFe, so called from a tree of the same name. It
gradually widens, ùntil, between the port and Praya
dos Mastros, or Beach of Masts, it becomes three miles
wide. Its circumference is about eighteen miles.
It has never been regularly inhabited by fixed
settlers. Formerly there was a small hamlet ten¬
anted by shepherds, the ruins of which are stiU
visible. Near to this is a well of sweet water, at
the base of the Caramujo, or Periwinkle, a mountain
nigh to a small bay at the south-west of the island.
Soon after the discovery of this group, Santa
Luzia was stocked with a considerable quantity of
cattle, for the consumption of the neighbeuring
islands—a measure of precaution which has been
lately much neglected.
The cotton plant (which is indigenous in the
Cape Verde Islands) has only recently been intro¬
duced into Santa Luzia. It will soon be onë of
the greatest soiirces of wealth of all the products of
this island, as it. has been found to flourish better
* Grreenmcli 24° 49' W.
THE LION ISLET.
here than at S. Vicente. It has also been cultivated
successfully at the small islet of Razo, and more
particularly at Rombo, where the plant is brought
to greater perfection than on the more fertile
islands. When I come to Santiago, I will say more
on this subject.
The bay before referred to at the south-west of
the island, the only one in it, lies between the
Ponta da Cruz and Monte Grande, or Great Moun¬
tain. The Caramujo stands in the centre, opposite
the bay.
On approaching the island, the best land-mark
is a small islet standing out some distance from the
shore; it is called by the English mariners, "The
Lion Islet." The bay has a sandy bottom, and
good anchorage of from eight to ten fathoms, with
an abundant supply of water at the well before
referred to.
The surrounding sea affords an abundant supply
of fish ; and a few turtles are occasionally taken.
Although the climate is similar to that of S.
Vicente, there are very few trees on the island.
The shores afford an abundance of orchilla, and
some alum.
Lately, a respectable family named Dias, from
the island of S. Nicoláo, has greatly improved the
pasturage of Santa Luzia, and stocked it with
cattle, oxen, cows, and sheep, besides horses, mares,
and donkeys—all of which are under the charge of
a " feitor" (factor, or bailiff), and some shepherds.
54
BRANCO AlîD RAZÓ.
Proceeding to the south-east, and keeping to the
west of S. Nicoláo, we arrive at the small islets of
Branco and^ Razo, called by the first navigators
" Ilha Branca " and " Ilha Raza."
The islet of Branco is about four and a half miles
to the south-east of Ponta da Cruz, the most southern
point of Santa Luzia. It is a very high rock,
covered with orchilla, and inhabitated by numerous
aquatic birds called "Cagarraz." Its extent is
about three miles from north-west to south-east.
The islet possesses a small fountain of sweet
water, from which the orchilla men receive their
supplies when they visit the islet to reap the
orchilla. The trading place is a small sandy beach,
near the south-east point.
At three miles east-south-east from the above
island is situated the Ilhéo Razo, which presents
the appearance of a large rock, nearly round, pro^
jecting out .of the sea to a considerable height. Its
extent from east to west is about two miles, and
from north to south about one mile and a half.
Between the Ilhéo Razo, and the island of S.
Nicoláo, is a channel of about eight miles broad.
There is a good landing-place at the north side of
the Ilhéo Razo.
As the soil was considered well adapted for the
culture of the cotton plant, the 'purgueircUf and the
dragon-tree, on the 26th of February, 1839, a
grant of the islet was made to JoSo Antonio Lmte,
an inhabitant of the neighbouring island of S.
s. NICOLAO..
55
Nicoláo, on condition that it should be put into a
state of cultivation, within the space of one year.
A large quantity of talc is found on the islet.
The coasts of both Branco and Razo are very
steep, and the sea around them is from eight to
forty fathoms deep. Around Ilheo Razo ships
may safely anchor at half a cable's length from
the shore.
Continuing our voyage westward, the next island
was S. Nicoláo, which is about twenty-four miles
long from east to west. Its breadth is difficult to
define, the formation of the island being so ir¬
regular. Measuring from Pon ta da Pedra d'Enxova,
the point of the anchovy store, in a westerly
direction, its average breadth may probably be
estimated at from three to four miles. At Porto
Velho, or Old Port, it spreads out like a bow or
crescent, extending to Ponta da Vermelharia, or Yer-
miUion.Point, part of the southern promontory of
the island. Here it is fifteen miles broad from
north to south; that is, from Ponta da Vermelharia
to Ponta dos Carmaroes, or Shrimp's Point. At the
most northern point it again begins gradually to
narrow, until we arrive at the Bay of Tarrafal,
between which and the Praya Branca it is only
about five miles.
The circumference of the island is supposed to
be about sixty-six miles, and its area about 115
square miles.
From Ponta da Vermelharia to Ponta do Tarrafal,
56
ANCHORAGES.
the most northern point of the island of Santiago,
the distance is about seventy-two miles south-soutii-
east ; but from the port of Villa da Praya, also in
Santiago, to any of the nearest points of S. Nieoláo,
it is supposed to be more than 110 miles.
The distance from Porto Velho, in S. NicoMo, to
Port Sal-Rey, in the island of Boa Vista, is about
eighty mUes east-south-east.
S. Nicoláo has various anchorages, which, though
denominated ports, are not at all calculated to
afford accommodation to large vessels. The most
frequented is Porto Velho, in the Bay of S. Jorge,^ or
St. George, at the south-east of the island. There
is another anchorage between Monte Formoso, or
Beautiful Mountain, and the Porto da Preguiça, or
Port of Laziness.
Within half a mile of the land, although the
water is eighteen fathoms deep, the bottom is not
considered good for anchorage, being covered with
sharp rocks, freestone, and gravel, which make it
difficult for vessels to obtain a firm hold. Some
distance out at sea the depth is about 100 fathoms..
The communication between this anchorage and
the land is maintained by means of the Porto da
Preguiça, which is about one mile and a half to the
south. This port forms a large basin, which may
not inappropriately be termed "a dead sea," and is
capable of containing five or six vessels, of from
150 to 200 tons burden, which can be brou^t up
so close with a hawser, either by ^m or st^m, that
POKTS.
Ô7
passengers may land by means of a plank reaching
from the deck to the shore.
These ports are the more frequented, in conse¬
quence of their contiguity to the Villa da Ribeira
Brava, or Town of the Wild Stream, the capital of
the island, which is three miles distant behind the
mountains.
In the Porto da Preguiça there are some dwelling-
houses, a few stores, and a custom-house, for the
accommodation of the small trade.
A well, affording a scanty supply of good water,
was opened for the public benefit by the Bishop,
D. Pr. Christováo de S. Boaventura, who, at his
own expense, also formed a road for the convenience
of the people. The same excellent prelate has con¬
ferred many other benefits on the inhabitants;
introducing among them industry and civilization
to an extent that, when compared with the bar¬
barism in which he found them towards the close
of the last century, is truly marvellous.
Proceeding along the shore, we passed Pedra
d'Enxova, and soon came to the bountiful Ribeira
do Carrical, or Sheer-grass Stream, which enters a
small bay, where vessels call for provisions and
water. The anchorage is seven or eight fathoms
deep, with a gravelly bottom, and is considered
better than that at Porto Velho.
Being, however, the private property of the before-
mentioned Dias, who also claims a right over the
stream, which is out of the way of the inhabited
58
POETO DA LAPA.
part of the island, this anchorage is not mnch fre¬
quented, except by vessels calling to purchase supplies
of fruit, vegetables, water, &c., which are all to be
found here in great abundance. The situation is
convenient for ships that have taken in cargo at
Boa Yista^ when a favourable wind enables ihein
to call, as supplies can be obtained at S. Nicoláo
for about half the sum they would cost at Boa Vista.
In the Bay of Jorge, to the south of Porto Velho,
is a small port called Bahia do Forcado, or Pitch¬
fork Bay. As the anchorage is bad, and there is
but little inducement for ships to call there, the
port is not much frequented.
Between Ponta da Vermelharia and Ponta do
Fidalgo, or Nobleman's Point, at the entrance south
of the island, is the Porto da Lapa, or Cave Port,
the most ancient, and supposed to be the best, an¬
chorage in the island, especially duiing high winds.
It was here the first colonists landed, and built
their residences. It was much frequented in the
sixteenth century ; but, during the ravages of the
pirates sent out in the time of the usurpation of.
Portugal by the Philips of Spain, the inhabitants
were obliged to leave their dwellings, and take
refuge behind the moimtains, in the deep vall^ of
Eibeira Brava, at the distance of seven miles and
a half from the port. Since that time it has re¬
mained almost entirely n^lected, save by some
shepherds who have erected huts there. To the
north-west of this is the extensive Bay of Tarrafid,
PRAYA BRANCA.
59
into which the water flows with great power, causing
a strong current, to which sailing*vessels must pay
particular attention when passing by the south of
the island, and be doubly cautious when nearing
Ponta da Yermelharia. When sailing too near the
wind, it sometimes suddenly falls (although there
may stiU be a strong breeze further out in the
channel), 'and the vessel is drawn by the strong
current towards land, and there becalmed. Under
such circumstances, the only means left to the
mariner is a powerful effort to tow the vessel out
sufficiently far again to catch the breeze.
Having passed the west point of the Bay of Tar-
rafal, which is situated to the west-north-west, we
come to the Porto do Tarrafal, where, during the
high winds, vessels can anchor in fifteen fathoms
and more. Being unsheltered, however, and more
than nine miles from the town, it is not considered
a convenient anchorage.
Three miles further on is Praya Branca, situated
north-west, on the beach of the same name, where
there is a small bay for boats, sheltered by a great
volcanic rock called Monte Gordo (Stout, or Fat
mountain). This mountain is 4,000 feet high, and at
its foot, from time immemorial, have lain quantities
of lava, pumice-stone, and other vestiges of the
action of volcanoes which were extinct before the
discovery of the island. It is the highest mountain
in the island. The next to it in height is Morro do
Frade, or Friar's Rock, in the centre of the island.
60
THE CONCELHO.
which is somewhat of the shape of a sugar-loaf. In
fact, the whole island is covered with mountains
and hills of various altitudes, between which are
fertile valleys, with an abundant supply of good
water.
The island forms a "concelho," or civil magis¬
tracy ; though, like all the others, it acknowledges
the authority of the " Commandant of the Island."
This officer is under the immediate orders of the
" Governor-General of the Province of the Islands
of Cape Verde."
The concelho is divided into two large parishes,
Queimados and Nossa Senhora do Rosario, at Ri-
beira Brava, a town lying in a confined valley
between two high mountains.
The houses of the town, which are in general
erected without any regard to order, are, with the
exception of a few stone houses, merely thatched
huts. The church was erected under the auspices
of Bishop D. Fr. Christoväo de S. Boaventura, and
is a neat building.
The other parish, Nossa Senhora da Lapa, at
Queimadas—a large, populous, rural district—^is
situated near the northern coast of the island.
There is also the nice, small hamlet of Fraya
Branca, on the north-western coast ; besides
numerous farm-houses and country residences,
erected here and there along the banks of the
various streams which intersect the island in all
directions.
THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND. 61
The largest proportion of the inhabitants are
mulattos. The number of blacks is considerable ;
and there are about 100 whites.
The people are orderly, duale? ingenious ;
but, in consequence of their natural indolence,
they do not avail themselves of the advantages
they possess in the productive nature of the soü.
The same cause has hitherto baffled the efforts
which began to be made about sixty years ago by
the enterprising Dias, to advance their civilization,
to introduce agriculture, and to promote a general
system of industry. The family of this gentleman
imported into this island, as well as into its depen¬
dency, Santa Luzia, bulls, cows, horses, Spanish
donkeys, a beautiful selection of merino sheep,
and formed plantations of numerous exotic plants.
These benevolent efforts, I am sorry to say, have
not realized the expectations of the projectors.
They succeeded, however, in encouraging the
cultivation of the " cochineal cactus," to which par¬
ticular attention has been paid.
If any effort was made to sink wells on that
portion of the island through which the streams
do not pass, it would conduce mudi to the pros¬
perity of the pasturage-ground, which, indeed,
ought to surpass all others of the Cape Verde
Islands, but which, at present, is not in a flourish¬
ing condition ; and attention should also be paid
to sowing at the regular season the lucem, or the
fundo (native) seed, and preserving the produce in
62
NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.
lofts or sheds during the hot, dry months of
December and January.
The dry grounds are calculated to produce an
immense quantity of purgueira and dragon-tree, or
what they call "Sangue de Dragö," (Dragon's-
Blood). The hill sides are also suited to the
growth of the cotton plant.
On this island alone (of all the group) is found
the banana of Hayti, as also the Antilles tea. It
produces also the vine, the sugar-cane, and iruits
in great variety, both native and European, and a
great quantity of vegetables. Cattle and fowl are
also abundant and cheap.
Coffee was introduced into the island, in
1790, by the chief of the family Dias (now de¬
ceased), and was first brought to the island of St.
Santiago, by Colonel Pereira, also deceased.
The island abounds in freestone and calcareous
substances. At Ponta da Vermelharia, crystal
copperas (vitriol), and sulphates of magnesia have
been discovered.
The climate is said to have been formerly
healthy, but, since 1821, the inhabitants have
been subject to endemic fevers and dysentery. At
certain seasons it is quite as unhealthy as that of
Santiago, which is considered the most insalu¬
brious of the Cape Verde Islands. The most un¬
healthy spot is, in my opinion, Ribeira Brava.
The general appearance of the soil is argillaceous,
graveUy, calcareous, and in pa^ volcanic.
MANUFACTURES.
The trade of the island is not extensive, the
ports being very inferior, and principally visited
only by vessels requiring supplies, or trading to
the two neighbouring islands of Boa Vista and Sal,
the inhabitants of which are the principal con¬
sumers of its productions. It exports to the me¬
tropolis some purgueira, and a large quantity of
orchiUa.
Except, the islands of Santiago and Boa Vista,
the island of S. NicoMo has the greatest number
of artisans of all the Cape Verde Islands. Pannos
(cloths) are manufactured here to a great extent.
Tanning is also carried on on a large scale ; tho
bark used is obtained from a shrub called Torta-
olho, or "goggle-eyed." There is also an abundance
of Palma-Christi oil, which is used to soften the
skins, which, after due preparation, are dyed or
coloured, and an excellent description of leather,
of the quality known as Morocco, is prepared for
market.
From the sea-board is obtained a number of
hardy, good seamen.
The three principal mercantile houses are those
of J. J. Marques, T. Miller, and J. B. Oliveira.
S. Nicoláo is said to have been the birth-place
of the celebrated painter, SimpHcio Joao Rodrigue»
de Brito.
To the east of S. Nicoláo Kes the celebrated
island of Sal, called so from the extensive trade
carried on in exporting salt.
ISLAND OF SAL.
This island is eighteen miles long from north
to south, and seven to eight miles in its greatest
breadth towards the north, becoming narrow to¬
wards the south. Its circumference is about forty-
one miles, and its area is calculated at about sixty-
eight square miles.
It is situated twenty miles to the north of Boa
Vista. The south side of the island presents the
appearance of a large shoal of sand, and is so level
that it can hardly be discovered, even during the
day, at more than five or six miles' distance. In
the interior is a range of three little hills, extending
^about three miles from south to north: On the
east side is an oblong mountain, not very high,
called Serra Negra, or Black Chain. Towards the
centre of the island the land becomes gradually
elevated, terminating northwards in the Pico Mar¬
tins, which rises 1,300 feet above the level of the
sea.
At aU parts of the west coast of this island vessels
can be safely moored with one anchor. . In the
Bahia da Palmeira, or Palm-tree Bay, between the
*
point of the same name and the Morro da CabeÇà do
Leäo, or Great Rock of the Lion's Head; in the Bahia
do Rabo de Junco, or Ruch-Tail's Bay, between the
.said Cabeça do Leáo and Ponta das Tartarugas, or
Turtles' Point; and at Bahia da Madama, or Madam's
Bay, between Ponta das Tartarugas and Ponta da
Salina ; but what is considered the best anchorage,
during the prevalence of high winds, is Rabo de
ANCHORAGES.
65
Junco, a deep bay in tbe form of a sbell, open to
the south-west, well sheltered from the north winds
by a great rock called Cabeça do Leáo, which ex¬
tends as a flat island into the sea.
The anchorage is in the middle of the bay, a
good distance from land, and is capable of shelter¬
ing vessels of any tonnage visiting the harbour.
Its greatest depth is about ten fathoms ; the bottom
is sandy, and, in some places, covered with sharp
stones.
The principal benefactor of this island, M. A. Mar¬
tins, established a good factory ; and, lately, a well
of excellent water has been discovered.
The quantity of fish that frequent the two bays
of Pahneira and Rabo de Junco is truly astonish¬
ing. It is so plentiful that a boat containing
four men can, in the course of three hours, obtain,
as I saw, 320 lbs. of fish. They are easily caught,
also, from on board vessels riding at anchor. Tur¬
tles come in large numbers to spawn on the beach.
The Bahia da Madama, or Porto da Salina, which
is inside this bay, at the west side of the south point,
called " Ponta das Salinas," although the most un¬
sheltered, is the anchorage preferred by vessels
lading with salt ; as from the said Porto da Salina
a shoal of sand extends to the place where the arti¬
ficial salt-pits are formed. Being the terminus of
the new railroad, a small population has recently
collected here. I coñsider the anchorage bad.
At the west of this anchorage is Portinho, or
VOL. I. F
66
PICO MABTINS.
Little Port, at the east of the same point, extending
south-east between the sandy shoal and the dan¬
gerous shallow of Ponta da Fragata, where ships
call in time of high winds.
It is very hazardous for ships, during high winds
blowing from the south-west or south-east, to call at
any of the above-mentioned anchorages. The safest
place at such times, according to our captain, who
has a considerable knowledge of these localities, is
Pedra de Lume, or fire-stone ; and even there ehain
cables are necessary, as the sharp stones at the
bottom are apt to chafe or cut the strands of hemp
or coir cables, the bottom being covered with sili-
cious (flinty) rocks.
To the north of this port is Pico Martins, the
entrance to which is so difficult that vessels require
the aid of a skilfiil pilot.
It was firom this port, at the commencement of
the nineteenth century, that salt was first exported,
having to be conveyed a distance of about three
nfiles from the natural salt-pits.
Jozé Accursio das Neves well described thosp
salt-pits in his ^'Political and Commercial Consi¬
derations,"* page 87, where he says, "Almost in
the centre of the island exists a hollow place, in the
midst of which bursts forth a spring of salt water,
which, overflowing the banks around, hardens, and
becomes salt, which, increasing fi*om time imme¬
morial, has accumulated like the snow in the Alps.
* " Consîderaçoes Foliticas e CcmmeardaeB,*' &e.
THE SALT TEABE-
67
It is an admirable work of nature, wbich may be
peifeeted at little cost."
After this description I need only add that, in
carr3dug out the views bere expressed, the above-
mentioned benefactor, M. A. Martins, expended
large sums between 1820 and 1839; and that from
the natural and artificial pits there is annually
exported already, by the new settlers, from 4,500
to 5,000 Cape Verde fni^^--each mpio, of about
SLxty bushels, being sold at an average price of
twenty-one shillings.
But the trade has of late inereased qonsiderably.
As long ago as 1844, when it was considered in
its infancy, no fewer than thirty-three vessels were
taking in cargoes of salt for the north pf Europe
alone. The trade was then confined to the two
mercantile houses of Martins and Sousa Machado
—^while now there are seven or eight on this one
island. There are factories belonging to the mer¬
chants Of Boa Vista, also A. F. Martins, A. I.
Oliveira, I. C. Oarvalhal, I. A. Pinto, P. M. Tito,
P, A. Oliveira, and the widow Martins and Sons.
The last I would recommend to the notice of
foreign fradérs, as it is a most e:^tensive establish¬
ment. Besides these hou^, the island has the
following members of the Ccmsiilar body :^Brazils,
a vice-consul; the Argentine Confederation, a vice-
consul ; Hanseatic Towns, a vicpTConsul ; United
States, a yice-consul; Great Britain^ a vice-consul
(who acts also for Boa Vista).
F 2
68
PRODUCTIONS OP SAL.
The island of Sal exports also large quantities of
goat skins, and some tortoise-shell of inferior
quality.
The soil in many parts is favourable to the
growth of the cocoa and the cotton-plant, wild
figs, &c.
Water is scarce, and no fire-wood can be ob^
tained ; aU the provisions consumed on the island
are imported, as the soil is unproductive. Orchilla
is found in the mountains, also some copper
pyrites.
The fecundity of the goats in the Cape Verdes
is proverbial, but more particularly on the neigh¬
bouring islands ; and though I have not had time
t
enough to be an eye-witness of the facts stated by
the author of "A Voyage from Lisbon to S.
Thomé, by a Portuguese Pilot,"* I wiU tran¬
scribe his words :—
" The goats generally bring forth three or four
at a time, and that every four months. The flesh
of the kid is invariably firm, and well flavoured.
The goats are in the habit of frequently drinking
the salt water
The turtles aflPbrd a delicate dish, which is much
in use, and considered healthy.
The air of this island, though not so good as
that of S. Vicente, is considered more healthy than
that of S. Nicoláo, and is considerably more so
* "Nayegaçao de Lisboa a S. Thomé, por um Piloto Portu-
guez."
POPULATION AND TEADEÏ 69
than that of the very unhealthy island of Santiago.
Some suppose Sal to be more healthy than Bo^
Yista, of which we shall treat presently.
The population is above 1,000. There is no
parish church, and only one chapel, lately built,
where service is held whenever the place is visited
by a priest.
There is, however, a custom-house, with one
director and two subordinate officers, one civil
magistrate—called the ^^Administrador"—^together
with the "Commandant of the .Island," which Í3
garrisoned with a small detachment of artillery of
the line.
Trade has induced many white families to settle
here. A few years since there was but one family,
with their assistants, resident on the island. There
is now a considerable population, and it competes
in exportation with the largest, Santiago, which
has the advantage over her elder sister.
At the island of Sal expense has not been spared
to render comniunication with the salt-pits easy,
means of a railroad, which was the first intro¬
duced into the Portuguese dominions. Since then
this inexhaustible salt mine has proved as bene¬
ficial as a gold mine would have been to the pro¬
jector, who, in this instance, has shewn the tact of
a wise and prudent speculator.
Manufactures and . agriculture are generally not
much attended to, the principal source of pros¬
perity being the trade at the sea-ports; there is
7Ö
íiStiAND Ot fiOÀ VISTA.
hafdly à house that häs not â shop attached to it,
on IS not in some way connected "^th one. When
vessels arrivé, a large stipply of provisions is
brought into market from every part the in¬
terior excepting Sal. Many of the people are
etnployed in carrying about the provisions,
and all seem desirous of selling, though few of
cultivating.
The island of Sal is Said tO haVe been discovered
in 1460 by Antonio de Nolle (called also Antoni-
Otto, and Mice Antonio), who named it Ilha Lana,
or Lhana, " Flat Island," from the plains of sand
which he observed from the south; but this name
Was soon afterwards ehanged to Ilha do Sal.
Twenty miles to thé south this island we meet
with the island Of Boa Vista, which is from Sixteen
to seventeen miles in its greatest length.
There is One long chain of mountains^ sepa¬
rating the sands on the west from the plains on
the east, which diminish cOnsîdi^âbîy towards
the eastern and wèStem extremitieSj but not so
mUch to tíie latter as to the former.
The greatest breadth from east to wfest is about
ninete^ miles, which diminishes a little to the
north, but still inore considerably about a ííhird
part of the island southwards. Its circttmferencè
is fifty-four, and its area is calculated at 140 square
miles.
The ports ctf this island, stiited to afifmd accom¬
modation to large ships, are Ȉree in numher. The
PORTO SAL-REY.
71
first is Porto Sal-R^, the entrance to whichisírom
the west. It is about four miles wide at the mouth,
with a depth of about (me mile and a half, and
six to twelve fathoms, with good sandy bottom.
Vessels are well protected from high winds when
at anchor, as they are sheltered by an islet. How¬
ever, at some seasons vessels are less secure, espe¬
cially during the prevalence of the Mareáa, a
strong sea surf, so well known at this place, al¬
though no mention is made of a single wreck hav¬
ing taken place during that time.
At the entrance to the port lies the islet before
mentioned. It is situated to the northward, about
one mile and a half distant from Sal-Rey. It
is about one imle long, and its position is N.W., by
S.E., affording a good landmark on entering the
port. A fort has been erected on it, which might
be made more effective, were it not that it is on
private property.
To the south of the islet is the Baixo do Inglez,
or Englishman's reef or shoal, between which and
the point of the islet is a deep clear channel, one
müe and a half broad; and from this shoal to
Morro d'Area, or Great Hill of Sand, dtuated at the
south of the bay, inside Porta da Varandmha, or
little verandah, is a space more than three miles
broad, navigable for sh^s, and where they can
tack with ease. The andiorage lies to the east of
the islet
Between the islet and Sal-Rey the water is tceo
72
IMPROVEMENT OP THE POET.
shallow, except for boats ; the bottom being very
stony, and only from one to two fathoms deep.
The island would be much benefited if a mole or
causeway were carried out from the land to the
islet, and a patent slip or dock for the repair of ves¬
sels made at the back of the latter; as, in time
of high winds, several vessels call at the island to
rep^ their damages.
On the northern or inner point of the islet,
about forty years ago, Martins, the enterprising
gentleman before mentioned, erected a neat wharf
or quay, aU of stone, which is decidedly the best
landing-place throughout the Cape Verdes. It has
at one side a little harbour or dock, to shelter boats,
such as barges, pinnaces, &c., &c.
Of aU the ports connected with the Cape Verdes,
Porto Sal-Rey is no doubt the best, with the excep¬
tion of Porto Grande at S. Vicente.
During the year, a great number of ships, not
only Portuguese but foreigners, call here'; and every
facility is afforded in loading and unloading, there
being a large number of cargo boats. Water, how¬
ever, is scarce and dear, as a quantily of about
three gallons costs 2d. It is obtained from a place
called As Gretas, or the Rifis, about one mile and
a half distant. It possesses a sudorific quality, is
muddy, and leaves a calcareous sediment, but it is
nevertheless considered wholesome.
There is a beautiful stream of good water, called
Ribeira da Boa Esperança, or the Stream of Good
PORTO DO NORTE»
73
Hope, on the property of the respectable licentiate,
Almeida, who has, in consequence of this large
supply, his property in a high state of cultivation.
If a company were formed to convey, by pipes or
otherwise, the water across the sand, for about two
miles, to Sal-Rey, it would be no doubt a good
speculation, and pay well. Of course, the present
proprietors should share in the profits, as there are
a great number of respectable mercantile houses,
both residences and warehouses, built in European
style J so that the place bids fair soon to compete
with Villa da Praya, the capital, in Santiago, to
which indeed it has for some time past been a rival.
However, there is a check to this ; the scarcity of
provisions, and most of the vessels trading in salt
calling for supplies at S. Nicoláo, and at Boa Vista
for cattle.
The second port is called Porto do Norte, or
North Port, although situated at the north-east of the
island, nigh to S. Joäo Baptista, called also Povoá-
çao do Norté, or North Village. It is considered
an unsafe port, having a ridge of rocks across the
entrance, on which numerous ships from time to
time have been wrecked during the north-east winds;
but so valuable is the cargo of crystallized salt ob¬
tained at a salt-pit near to the port, that vessels
still run the hazard of entering at high-water.
The third port is called Curralinho, cattle-fold,
the anchorage of which is from ten to twelve
fathoms along the bay. It is situated south-east
74
ARTIFICIAL SALT FITS.
of the island ; the vessels anchor near to an islet
on the south point, but as it is uninhabited, it is
principally resorted to by pirates and smugglers,
who put in there in high winds, but not during the
spring tides. I may here mention that eastwards,
between the two last-mentioned ports, there is a
small one for fishing-boats, called Portinho do
Feirreiro, or Blacksmith's Little Port.
The main wealth of this island, as well as of its
two neighbours Sal and Maio, lies in the large
quantity of salt it exports, which is calculated at
about 2,500 Gape Verde moios, and realizes Is. the
moio.
The greater part of the salt is prepared at the arti¬
ficial salt-pits, during dry weather, when a number
of men and women are employed in the manufac¬
ture. These salt-pits extend nearly to the port of
Sal-Rey, towards the north. A number of don¬
keys are employed to convey the salt. It is much
in demand for salting meat, and although not so
white and dean as what is obtained at the natural
pits, is conridered good for the above purpose, and
is considerably cheaper. The salt at Porto do Norte
is excellent, but in consequence of the dangerous
state of the port the traders are obliged to sell it
at the same price as that obtained for an inferior
quality at other parte of the island.
Boa Vista is considered as the emporium of the
Windward Islands of the tCape Verdess, having a
much more extensive trade than either Sal or Mam.
VILLAGE OF RABEL.
75
The mercantile houses are wealtíiy ; there are
agents here from other islands, who vend all kinds
of merchandise, native and formgn ; the latter comes
principally firom Europe and America, and is Iwu*-
tered for the insular products.
There is on the island a British vice-consul, who
acts for Sal, and a vice-consul for BraziL
The island suffered much in 1817 by corsairs
frmn Buenos Ayres. Notwithstanding, it afterwards
rallied, and has been making ra^d progress for the
last forty years, rivalling in trade and political in¬
fluence the capital of the islands.
Sal-Rey is not yet formed into a parish, having
only a chapel, Santa Isabel, which is supplied by
the chur<^ of S. Roque (St. Rock), at RabO,
which is an excellent stone edifice, built by Bishop
D. Fr. I^vestre de Maria Santissima, and fit to be
the cathedral of the islanda It stands three miles
from Sal^Rey, in the centre of the beautiful vDlage
of Rabil, on an eminence opposite the bar, and is
surrounded by some handsome stone houses, among
which is the Camara Municipal, or town-house.
Th^e are also a number of cottages with gardens,
belonging to the poorer inhabitants^ erected around
in a circuit of about one mile and a half.
Tliis pafish was first instituted by the aforesaid
Bishop in 1810, when the churdi was built, the
pari^ having been transferred from the Povoaq^o,
iidmblted chiefly by shejdiercb and labourers, about
^ miles ^stallt from the port.
76
POPULATION.
The population in 1834 was estimated at 3331 ;
in 1838 it colonized Sal, which has above 1,000.
Notwithstanding this drain it has at present more
than 4000 inhabitants, according to a census taken
in 1852, though it appears that some mistake has
taken place in a late census, in which I only find a
little more than >2,000 inhabitants. The people are
in general weU-dressed. The men may be said to
be stalwart and active, some of them presenting a
giant-like appearance. Both sexes are weU pro¬
portioned.
The want of a large supply of water, together
with the badness of the soil, causes agriculture to
be in a very low state ; the people are principally
employed in manufacturing salt, reaping the or-
chilla, or in trading between the neighbouring is¬
lands. When they have rain they cultivate maize,
beans, sweet potatoes, &c. ; also some cotton, the
growth of which, if encouraged, could be increased,
as the soil seems favourable to the plant.
The island is much in want of firewood. The
cocoa tree flourishes so well on the sands, that it
-ought to be more cultivated, as it is so beneficial to
the inhabitants.
Fish is an important item in the supplies, and is
to be obtained in great abundance around the island,
particularly a kind of cod-fish or poor-jack, called
there "mero." A number of whales also are found
in the neighbouring seas; these at one* time were
so numerous as to cause the establishment of a
CONDITION OF THE ISLAND,
77
fishing company, when D. Antonio de Lencastre
was Governor.
The company built the large stores called " Ar-
mazens da Beira," which are still in a good state of
preservation. There are a number of marine
plants growing around, from which soda is ex¬
tracted. On the island is to be found a descrip¬
tion of stone used for filtering water.
Among the goods manufactured are some richly
worked doths and counterpanes»
Of artisans, there are carpenters, blacksmiths,
and calkers.
There is no endemic illness, and intermittent
fevers are rare. " As for ophthalmia," says a late
captain in the Royal Navy, "it is less prevalent than
in PortugaL" The fact is, the m/>rtality is com¬
paratively very small.
The population is composed of whites, mulattoes,
and liberated slaves, with their immediate descend¬
ants; the whites amount to about 400, which is
a larger proportion than in any of the other
islands.
The island of Boa Vista, and not the island of
Vicente, on which the home government has made
the attempt, is the one that in my opinion ought to
be sdected for the capital of the Archipelago, as
being most eligible on various accounts, at least
for the present. The reasons for saying, so are the
foUoYÔng :—
First, it is financially impi^acticable, at so great a
78 CAPITAL OP THE ABCHIPELAGO.
distance, where the expense would be enormous, to
erect suitable buildings, public and private, suffi¬
cient for the accommodation of the various officers
of a new capital such as is contemplated on the
sandy, uncultivated soil of S. Vicente, an island, it
is true, otherwise healthy and pleasant, and the
port of which merits the eulogy of all who visit it.
Secondly, because Boa Vista is the most central,
and possesses greater facility of communication
with the other islands, and also has the advan¬
tage of being nearest to the coast of Guinea.
Thirdly, because there are houses and stores al¬
ready erected, sufficient, with those belonging to
government, for the accommodation of public offi¬
cers ; so that government could devote to other im¬
provements what would be required to erect suita¬
ble buildings at S. Vicente ; there is also an excellent
hotel for the accommodation of the public.
Fourthly, because the port of Sal-Rey is next in
importance to that of S. Vicente, and is safe at all
seasons.
Fifthly, because the church of S. Roque, at R^bil,
is more appropriate for a cathedral ; and there are
houses which, with some improvements, could an¬
swer as a residence for the Prelate, for a college,
and for a seminary.
Sixthly, because the island is healthy and plea¬
sant, and in it are found social resources which are
not to be obtained in the others, with the excep¬
tion of Santiago ; and.
DÏSCOVERY OR BOA VISTA.
79
Seventhly, because the great inci'ease in the con¬
sumption would give an impetus to the agriculture
of the neighbouring island of S. Nicoláo, which
is considered the general storehouse, whence at
present they obtain their supplies ; though if
shambles and a daily market were established, it
would enhance the comfort both of the producer
and consumer.*
Luigi Cadamosto claims the honour of having
discovered this island on his second voyage, for
which reason he gave it the name of Boa Vista.
From authentic documents,f it appears that in the
year 1489 it was known among the royal Grants
as S. Christoväo, and not as Boa Vista, which name
it received when granted to those by whom it was
stocked with cattle.
There is no doubt that under the name of S.
Christoväo, it was one of the five islands discovered
in 1460, when, by the death of the iUustrious In¬
fante D. Henrique, the projector of the celebrated
Portuguese conquests and discoveries, this island
was united to the dominions of the Infante D. Fer¬
nando. It is difficult to understand how Antonio
de Nolle, who, on the first of May 1460, discovered
the three islands of Maio, S. Filippe (now Ilha de
Fogo), and Santiago, which no doubt he sailed round
northwards, assisted by the west winds which prevail
in the month of May, did not make this discovery.
* See Lopez do Lima's speech in the Cortes in 1834.
t The Grant of De Manyel, Duke of Beja—^Book 26th of Kincr D.
Joao n., p. 70.
80
THE DAY OE VEEA CBUZ.
It is not likely that he did not notice the large
island of Boa Vista, which he probably discovered on
the third of May, in sailing north-east of Santiago,
towards the coast of Guinea: this hypothesis is
strengthened by the original name of S. Christoväo
being that of the patron saint of the Genoese seamen.
There can be no doubt of his having discovered, to
his left, the island to which from its appearance he
gave the name of Shana, its former designation—as
from the ship it appeared as a low plain—^but which
has subsequently been called SaL
There is another circumstance which strengthens
this hypothesis, and which is inexplicable by any
other, namely, the traditional custom of keeping
a festival on the day of Vera Cruz, the third
of May. On this occasion all the slaves are allowed
to be free for twenty-four hours, and to enjoy aU
sorts of amusements during that time, without any
restraint from their masters. The indulgence
granted on such occasions was sometimes carried
to great excess, and serious results often followed.^
On one occasion in 1811 they entered into a con¬
spiracy to rebel and free themselves from servitude^
first murdering their masters. But fortunately
their design was discovered in time to avert any
disastrous results, and prevent them from taking
possession of the armament and ammunition stores
of the TTiilitia, as they had intended. The third of
May is therefore conridered to have been ^e day
on which the island was discovered.
BOYAL GRAFTS.
81
It is not improbable that on returning the follow¬
ing year, for the purpose of colonizing Santiago,
Antonio de Nolle might have given to the island
the name of Boa Vista, being the first island they
sighted. It was however called S. Christoväo by
the Royal Chancery, in all legal instruments, up to
1497, at which time the name of Boa Vista first
appears.
It was also on the 29th October, 1497, that King
Don Manoel first granted the wild cattle of the
island to the Conselheiro Rodrigo Affonso, captain
of the northern portion of Santiago, and owner
of the cattle pastured on the island of Maio. He
is said to have been the possessor of the most
numerous herds of cattle in the fifteenth century—
the only condition of possession being that he
should pay to the King " the tenth of the skins and
fat of all the cattle killed." This privilege he was
to enjoy during his lifetime, and it was not to re¬
vert to his children or heirs. A servant of the
Crown attended to see that justice was done to his
master. However, on the death of Rodrigo Affonso,
King Doii Manoel gave, in 1505, a similar grant of
the wild cattle, and also of the soap manufactory, at
Santiago, to his son, Pedro Correa. King Dom Joäo
III. confirmed the latter grant in March, 1522 ; and
on the death of Pedro Corrêa, by his Royal Letter
Patent, dated 27th September, 1542, conferred it
on his nephew, Antonio Corrêa. It continued in
the possession of this family until the usurpation
VOL. I. G
82
BAIXO DE JOAO LBITAO.
of the island by Philip of Spain, when captains
were appointed to take charge of its affairs.
The population in the meantime increased con¬
siderably, in consequence of the manufacture and
export of salt. In the beginning of the seventeenth
century, those who resided on the island were prin¬
cipally shepherds and hunters.
Its trade, independent of that in salt, was in salt
meat, sausages, minced meat, and hides : the latter
has gradually diminished during the last cen¬
tury.
About seventeen miles S.S.W. of this island
lies the famous Baixo de Joäb Leitao, or Joäo
Leitâo's shoal, which is a reef of stone and coral,
running about three miles from north to south, and
nearly the same distance from east to west. The
sea breaks over it in a white foam, which may be seen
at the distance of five or six miles. Notwithstand¬
ing, from the negligence of mariners, ships have
sometimes been wrecked upon it. In the year
1806, the Indiaman, "Lady Burgen," was of the
number.
The centre of this band is in lat. 15® 48' N., and
long, from Lisbon 14® 6' W.* The water is from
thiriy to forty fathoms deep around it, with sandy
bottom, increasing in depth towards Boa Vista at the
north-east and Maio at the south. On this bank, in
fine weather, boats can moor and obtain a quantity
of fish, which they clean and preserve witii the
• Greenwich 23° 13' W
SHELTER EOR BOATS.
83
salt they take as ballast, thus returning home
with the fish ready cured. In case the weather
threatens to become unfavourable, the boats can
run for Curralinho, which is twenty-two miles dis¬
tant ; at which place also they can fish, and are
well sheltered.
To the south of this shoal lies the island of
Maio.
G 2
84
CHAPTER HL
Maio—^Porto Inglez—Commumcation with the Shore—Production of
Salt—Agriculture and Pasturage—Artificial Salt Pits — The
Natives of Maio—^European Consuls—Historical Notice of the
Isle—Santiago—The Harbour of ViUa da Praya—Yisit from the
Port Captain—^Description of the Town—Government Buildings—
The Supply of Water—^A Visit to the Belgian Consul—^Food of
the Inhabitants—A Drive to the Old Capital of the Island—Or-
chiHa, Maize, and other Agricultural Productions—^Trade and
Commerce—^Indigo and Cotton—^Tobacco and Dragon's Blood—
Various Plants and Fruits—The Animals of the Island—A Bull
Fight—^The Native Women—^A Review of the Troops—A Mar¬
riage—Musical Instruments—^A Strange Custom—Reception of the
Governor—^The Anchorage of Santiago—Lagoons and Malaria—^Ec¬
clesiastical Arrangements—^The Natives—^Mercantile Houses —
Early Voyages to Santiago—Historical Notice—Fogo—Its Princi¬
pal Port«—^Vüla de San Felippe—^Volcanic Eruptions—Brava—^Its
Mineral Productions.
Having left the Baixo of Joäo Leitäo behind us,
we soon arrived at Maio, the first of the islands,
which constitute what is termed the leeward group.
This island is about forty-five miles distant from
PORTS AND ANCHORAGES.
85
Boa Vista, and about fifteen from Santiago, irom
which it can be plainly seen.
It is about twelve miles in its greatest length
from north to south, and about seven mües in its
greatest breadth from east to west. The circumfer¬
ence does not exceed thirty-six mües ; the area is
calculated at about fifty square miles. Ponta do Ga-
leao. Galleon Point, the most northern, extends more
than two miles in a N.N.E. direction, terminating in
a dangerous stony shallow, over which the water
is constantly breaking; it is called the "Baixo do
Galeäo," in consequence of the galleon " Conceiçâo "
(Conception) having been wrecked on it during
the night, in the year 1624.
There are but two anchorages on the coast of
this island. The principal one, which is much fre¬
quented by ships of all nations calling for salt,
is Porto Inglez, or English Port, which is of tolerable
extent, near to which stands a black, perpendicular
rock, sixty feet high. This anchorage is situated on
the S.S.W. of the island, where ships can safely
anchor in ten fathoms water, with a good sandy
bottom, but foul in some parts, in consequence of
ships throwing their ballast overboard.
The second port extends from Ponta das Salinas
to Ponta do Recife, the most southern point of the
island, near which runs westward, at about the
distance of a mile, a shoal of shingle, rising to
the surface of the water, and discernible from the
anchorage. Vessels coming from the east require
86 COMMUNICATION WITH THE SHORE.
great care in entering. This port is well sheltered,
and considered safe in the time of high northeirly
winds ; but it has strong currents during contrary
gales, and is very rough at spring-tide.
The communication with the shore from vessels
is very difficult. The cargo boats draw up along-,
side a dangerous rock, on which stands a crane to
load and unload the merchandise ; the sea in the
meantime being more or less rough, according to
the prevailing winds, and driving the boat against
the rock—so that the greatest care must be taken in
lading and discharging cargo. In the same manner
persons are takèn from the boats, or let down by
means of a seat attached to ropes—a very uncom¬
fortable process. When the sea is very cahn, per¬
sons who are agüe sometimes jump from the boat
upon a clean stepping-stone; but this is a very
dangerous experiment, as the surf beats violently
upon the rock, and the water is very deep around.
Those who adopt this mode of debarkation must
hastily ascend some rude steps cut in the rock;
and, having reached the high ground, they arrive
at Porto Inglez, where the best custom-house to
be seen in any of the islands is established. Enor¬
mous piles of sall^ which have the appearance of
white pyramids, may be observed in the neigh¬
bourhood of this building ; and the battery, called
the " Presidio," is also close at hand, next to which
stands the barrack for the detachment of soldiers
quartered here ; also the military prison. Until
PORTO INGLEZ.
87
tile beginning of the present century, the houses
were thatched with straw ; but since 1822, under
the Governorship of Joâo da Matta Ghapuzet, the
general improvement of the place, as regards
buildings and sanitary regulations, has been very
marked. The houses are now built of stone and
covered with tiles; some are large, and have a
neat appearance ; the- greater part, however, are
very irregularly disposed^ being built without re¬
ference to system, or the formation of streets.
The sea, at the time of spring-tide, overflows the
Praya das Salinas, at the north side of the port.
The salt produced here is daily transported on don¬
keys to the top of the rock, between which and the
beach is situated the pit from whence the inhabi¬
tants and the shipping are supplied.
The other anchorage is the Porto do Pau-Seco
or dry post, near to the point, so named originally
from the large dry trunk of a tree which stood
as a landmark to mariners on the north-west
coast.
It is a small bay, with about eight fathoms
water, stretching towards the north point. It is
considered a good shelter for ships in rough wea¬
ther, and from the south and south-east winds ;
but it is not much frequented, there being few in¬
habitants, and no trade to induce vessels to
call
Four mües to the south of this, communicating
northwards with the Praya das Salinas, is situated
88
TKADE OF THE ISLAND.
another bay, which is very stony, called Porto
da Calheta, where only pinnaces can entér,
as the water is not sufficiently deep for large
vessels.
The remainder of the island, to the north, south,
and east, presents a barren line of coast, with
numerous dangerous shoals running out into the^
sea, in consequence of which it is dangerous to
approach too near to those parts of it.
The chief trade of this island consists in. its
salt, which is produced in large quantities, and of
excellent quality. The exportation varies according
to the number of vessels which call at the island.
The average quantity annually taken to foreign
countries is estimated at about 4,000 Cape Verde
moios, independent of what is sent to the neigh¬
bouring islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Brava,
which, being added to the above, amounts in round
numbers to about 6,000 moios. The salt is sold on
the island at the rate of 15s. per moio.
Little attention is paid, to agriculture, as few,
except the wealthy inhabitants, who have gardens,
cultivate vegetables. About one mile and a half
inland there is some low marshy ground, occa¬
sioned by an accumulation after rain, in the months
of August and September ; it is called the
Alagoa, or lagoon. Here, when the water sub¬
sides, the inhabitants sow in the month of January
a variety of culinary or esculent plants, such as
maize, beans, &c. I have no doubt that thk
SALT PITS.
89
mârsh conduces much to engender malaria, which
caiises fevers and catarrh, to which the natives
are subject—so that there is a great deal of sickness,
although it is not so prevalent as at Santiago.
A portion of the island is devoted to pasturage,
which would be much improved by the introduc¬
tion of Onobrichis, as the sod is a composition of
Hme, sand, and shells.
A large number of cattle, which are sold to vic¬
tual the ships, are reared here.
In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries there
was a considerable trade in meat and hides, and a
large quantity of cotton was cultivated, but these
have entirely disappeared—^the salt pits, which are
much more remunerative, having attracted the at¬
tention of the proprietors ; and the inhabitants now
raise only sufficient provisions for their own con¬
sumption, and the supply of the shipping calling
at their port.
By an arrangement among the proprietors, the
ships calling for salt are obliged to take their car¬
goes in rotation (rodcb) from the different salt-pits,
or a portion at least from each. These arrange¬
ments are made by the consignees, who are able, by
the experience they have in such matters, to
obviate all inconvenience and delay.
The best salt is obtained from the Salina Velha,
the old salt pit, where it is produced naturally, and
crystallized by the influence of the sun; but in
consequence of an accumulation of sediment at
90
PRODUCTIONS.
the bottom, this salt pit must be cleaned out re¬
gularly. This is accomplished by order of the
Government, the different proprietors supplying
each a man, or more if required, for the purpose,
on certain days agreed on.
There are other artificial salt-pits, at a distance
from the sea. WeUs are sunk and water thrown
into the pits, and there left to evaporate, by which
process the salt is crystallized in about from ten to
fifteen days. This salt, although more powdery,
and not so perfectly crystallized, is considered
valuable in preserving meat.
Besides Porto .Inglez, and the parish of Penoso,
nine miles in the interior, there are four other
places, with farms dispersed among the valleys,
where there are no streams ; they are principally in¬
habited by shepherds and orchiUa-reapers.
The island has no trees, although the soil is of
such a nature that the cocoa-palm could be culti¬
vated with advantage. Cereals are purchased or
bartered for at Santiago. A large quantity of
cotton was formerly cultivated on the island.
There is stiU a considerable supply of catü^ some
of which are slaughtered and sold to the shipping.
A great number of fish are caught and cïired, for
the sea around a,bounds with various descifiptions
of the finny tribe.
Maio has an Administrador de Coneelh(^ and is
considered as one parish, with a church dedicated
to Nossa Senhora da Luz, Our Lady of light.
DISCOVERY OF MAIO.
91
at ^ the Povoaçâo Vdha. There is, however, a
ehapel at Porto Inglez.
The natives are very black. There are some
mulattoes, but comparatively few whites. The
latter include the heads of the different mercantile
houses, namely—J. R. Palavra, L. A. Aranjo, L.
Loff, P. Bento, S. A, Evora, J. J. R. Palavra, J. H.
Evora, L. A. Cardosa, and L. P. MeUo.
In consequence of the trade carried on, the fol¬
lowing countries have vice-consuls—Belgium, Den¬
mark, Russia, the Hanseatic Towns, United States,
and Brazil.
The island of Maio was discovered by Antonio
de Nolle, at the same time as Santiago and S.
Fehppe, or Fogo ; and no doubt, from its geographi¬
cal position, it was the first seen, as it received the
name of the month in which the disbovery was
made, being the 1st of May. This name might
also have its ori^n from the Maias, or yellow
flowers, which aimounced the appearance oi^ring,
and with which, at that season, the Portuguese
were wont to ornament the doors and windows of
their houses.
It would appear that this island was not colo¬
nized when the other two were, but that the
captain of the northern part of Santiago left on
it some cattle, and made some plantations of
cotton.
It is certain that it was possessed by Rodrigo
Affonso, one of the council of King Dom Manœl,
92
THE POSSESSOR OP MAIO.
Védor, or comptroller, to the Infanta Dona Isabel,
and captain of the north of Santiago, who sub¬
sequently sold it to Joham Baptista, with the cattle
then pastured thereon, together with some cotton
plants and other effects.
By the death of the said Joham Baptista, his
property passed to his sons-in-law, Egas Coelho,
knight of the royal household, and his brother,
Joham Coelho, who both, when King Dom Manoel
thought to take possession of the island, and ordered
them to remove their chattels, appealed to the King,
stating " that they enjoyed legally the privilege of
pasturing on the said lands the cattle which were
their property, and of which they were obliged to
pay to the King a tenth—^which law they would
conform to." The King referred the subject to the
legal advisers of the Crown, who gave an opinion
favourable to the appellants, in consequence of
which their possession was confirmed, and signed
at Lisbon on the 10th July, 1504. The deed set
forth that " the appellants, their wives, and their
eldest sons should retain possession, by paying to
the Crown the fourth of the produce, also the
tenth of the skins and fat of all cattle kiUed by
them while in possession. The cattle were to be
slaughtered only in the presence of the govern¬
ment registrar ; and no cows were to be killed un¬
less in case of necessity, when the King required it
for the supply of the ships jof the navy which called
there."
ROYAL GRANTS.
93
The cotton plants^ of which they were to pay the
tenth, the King sold to them for what they cost
the Government, namely, 8/. ; thirty cows belonging
to the State also remained on the island.
After the death of the eldest sons, the immov¬
able property reverted to the Crown^ and two
years were allowed for the removal of what was
legally considered movable property; the heirs
were, however, permitted to retain a right over
the cotton plants, &c., planted by their prede¬
cessors.
Agreeably to the above arrangements, the island
continued in the possession of the family during
the period of twenty years, until 1524^ when it re¬
verted to the Crown.
Edng Dom Joáo III. made a grant of half of the
island to the Baron of Alvito, his Vedor, under the
same conditions as the former grant. In 1573,
this was a^ain transferred to Dona Antonia de
Vilhena and her descendants.
The other half of the island was granted by King
Dom Joäo IV., in 1642, to Martim Affonso Coelho,
Dezembargador da Casa da Supplicaçâo, Judge of
the Chamber of Petition, from which time it began
to be regularly colonized ; and ultimately the parish
of Penosa was formed, with a church dedicated to
Nossa Senhora da Luz. This took place under the
auspices of Dom Fr. Lourenço Garro, until which
period there were only shepherds and hunters set¬
tled there. These rude settlers occupied their time
94
SANTIAGfO.
principally in preserving and preparing meat and sau¬
sages, tlie factors or bailiffs superintending the sale
of meat, hides, and cotton articles, which it? appears
were formerly much more plentiful than at present.
They also superintended the sale of salt, which was
not then considered of so much importance; nor
does it appear that any duty was at that time de¬
manded on the exportations by the Dutch.
Since the reign of Dom Pedro II., the Mand
has been governed by Capitäes Móres, High Cap¬
tains, appointed by the King, and its population
has gradually been increasing. In consequence of
the island being unproductive, provisions for the
supply of the inhabitants are obtmned from
Santiago.
At fifteen miles south-west of the island of
Maio lies the largest island of the Cape Verdes,
Santiago, called, par excellence, the Island of Cape
Verde. It is thirty miles long from Ponta do Tar-
rafal at the north, to Ponta da Ribeira Grande
at the south. Its greatest breadth from Ponta
de S. Francisco to Ponta da Ribeira dTn-
femo, or river of hell, is eighteen miles; thk
breadth greatly diminishes towards the north, and
also a little towards the south. The island is tra¬
versed by a ridge of mountains composed of basalt,
argd, lava, and calcareous substance, from the
centre of which rises the famous Pico da Antonia,
4,500 feet above the level of the sea, presenting
something of a conical form.
THE PORT CAPTAIN.
95
Next was presented to our view the beautiful,
extensive, and fertile meadows near to the Cidade
da Ribeira Grande, which was formerly considered
the capital of the island.
We cast anchor in the harbour of ViUa da Praya,
which is pretty and commodious ; and, although
dangerous during the rainy season, is safe when
the proverbially gentle Caße Verde breezes prevail.
The first person who boarded our vessel was the
Port-Captain ; and if we were to judge by his ap¬
pearance of the salubrity or insalubrity of the
island, I confess that my decision would be in
favour of the former, for I learned that he was
healthy, married, happy, and prosperous. He is
brother to the Secretary of State for Colonial and
Marine affairs, the Viscount Sá da Bandeira, well
known for the zeal he manifested on behalf of the
Portuguese settlements abroad, a zeal of which I
considered he could give no greater proof than
the exposure of his brother to a climate considered
so unhealthy.
The Por<>Captain informed us that the Governor-
General was not then on the island, but was ex-
petted every moment, as the time had arrived when
he made his annual round of visits to the different
islands; but he added that we should experience
no inconvenience in consequence, for that we should
not meet with any detention for water or any sup¬
plies we might require, which we had neglectéd
on our visits to the other islands, as Santiago is
96
VILLA DA PRATA.
considered the best place for the supply of all kinds
of refreshments.
Almost all the passengers went on shore at Praya
Negra, where we landed with some difficulty, being
compelled to jump on the rocks, against which the
waves were furiously beating. In this manner,
with great risk and much trouble, we made our
way to a small house used as a guard-house, where
we aU congregated. When we had mustered aU
our forces we crossed an extensive sandy beach,
and then commenced our ascent of the " hill diffi¬
culty," a narrow, steep cliff. At length we arrived
at the entrance of the town, near to which is erected
the Bateria Grande, or great battery, which is much
more important in size, has more commodious bar¬
racks, is better garrisoned, and contains more of the
munitions of war, than the forts at S. Vicente, and
at the other islands.
The town of ViUa da Praya is situated on a
table-land on the top of a mountain near the sea.
The bay is formed by two promontories, the Mulher
Branca, or white woman, and the Temerosa, or
timid one, a perpendicular rock which presents the
appearance of a pedestal on a large scale. On the
south side it is surrounded by hills, ranged in some¬
thing like castellated order, both east and west ;
beyond which are two valleys, which unite toge¬
ther towards the north, where, at the base of a
cliff, is the ingress to the town, which is more than
PBAYA GRANDE.
97
half a mile long from north to south, and from 600
to 700 feet broad.
Both these valleys at the base of the rock are
very fertile, and well supplied with water; they are
covered with palm-trees, which are unproductive.
The north-west valley, however, has a number of
orange, tamarind, and other trees, with a never-
failing fountain called Anna, around which Go¬
vernor Chapuzet has had a beautiful embowered
garden planted for public accommodation. Adjoin¬
ing this are some well-cultivated gardens belonging
to the more wealthy inhabitants.
Both these vaUeys terminate at the two beaches
of the bay—one of white sand, at the north-west,
called Praya Grande ; the other at the east, the
sand of which is of a dark colour, in consequence
of which it is called Praya Negra. It was on the
latter that I and my companions had landed with
so much difficulty.
On the Praya Grande, situated at the bottom of
the bay, a strong surf is always breaking, tbrougb
which passengers and goods must be conveyed to
and from the ships on the shoulders of men.
The custom-house is erected here, with numerous
stores, &c. ; adjoining the custom-house is a paved
road of about twenty feet broad, which reaches
up to the town, and terminates at the barrack
piazza.
Having given a brief account of the approaches
to the town, we next proceed to describe the town
VOL. I. H
9^8
STREETS.
itself. It maj: be said to commence at the yard of
the church, which is built on the brow of a hill
overhanging the sea. From this yard to the Largo
do Pelourinho, the market-place, and to the place
of execution, extend two broad, short streets-^Rua
do Ouvidor, Magistrate's-street, and Riia dos
Quarteis, Barracks-street, uniting the Pelourinho-
with a vast open space called Achada da Boa
Vista, the Place of Good Prospect, where the
town terminates. Towards the north are three
clean, neat streets running parallel— Rua de
Lencastre, Rua do Meio, and Rua do Cofre, but
thev are deficient in trees.
•/
The yard or piazza of the church has the form
of a trapezium. The sacred edifice is situated at
the east end of this space; to the south is the
parapet which dominates the Praya Grande, and
the sea is perceived beneath. To the west is the
military Presidio, where Governor Chapuzet has
built the barracks, at the head of the paved way
extending from the Praya Grande ; they are built
of stone, and have a neat, substantial appearance.
To the north of the town, until lately, there was a
public garden, constructed by the Captain-General
Don Antonio de Lencastre, but recently removed
by Governor-General Chapuzet to its present site.
On the ground occupied by the former are now
built a number of houses.
The Largo do Pelourinho is a beautiful paral¬
lelogram, partly paved. It is 360 feet long, by
PUBLIC BÜILDIÍÍGS.
99
240 broad; a fair and market are held at this
place. Connected with this Largo are three streets,
the houses of which are built of stone, and in the
European style, some having the floors planked,
others only paved, but all apparently neat and com¬
fortable. There are also a number of good shops,
which sell every description of European and
American produce.
In the centre of the Largo do Pelourinho, east¬
wards, are the ruins of the old Government-house,
or Quarter-general; at the south side stand the
town-house, or Casa da Camara, the prison, and the
court-house, aU good buildings.
From the Largo do Pelourinho, on the east side,
are two lanes, which lead to the Batería Grande, and
from thence down to Praya Negra. From the
battery a street called Rua da Praya Negra runs
parallel to Lencastre Street, east of which is a stream
flowing through Bom Cae, or good fall, along the
suburbs of Boa Vista to the military hospital.
This hospital I found supplied with every requi¬
site to aid medical skill in contending with an un¬
healthy climate. . Near the hospital is a windmill
which was erected by order of Governor Chapuzet,
and which I believe is the only one in the Cape
Verdes.
All the houses at the west side command a view
from the rear over the luxuriant vaUey of Fountain
Anna and the public gardens.
The government buildings of ViUa de Praya are,
H 2
100 GOVERNMENT INSTITUTIONS.
first, the Quarter-general, or Government-house,
where the colonial council holds its sessions ; second,
the Colonial Office ; third, the Government Printing-
office, for gazettes and other official papers ; fourth,
the Town-house, connected with which are the court»
and prison ; fifth, the Escola Principal, or govern¬
ment principal school ; sixth, the Hospital Militar ;
seventh, the Misericordia, or House of Mercy, es¬
tablished 1497 ; eighth, the Junta da Fazenda, or
financial department; ninth, the Almoxarifado, or
government stores; tenth, theAlfandega, or Custom-,
house ; eleventh, the Correio, or Post-office ; twelfth,
the church of Nossa Senhora da Luz ; thirteenth,
the church of Nossa Senhora da Graça; fourteenth,
the church of S. Miguel ; fifteenth, the Quartel, or
barracks ; sixteenth, the Port-Captain's office, &c.
Until the beginning of the present century, the
site now occupied by the foregoing public edifices
was merely a large waste field. When Captain-
General D. Antonio de Lencastre arrived here, in
1803, he found it occupied with a few huts only,
erected without regard to order or uniformity, the
only exceptions being the houses .of the company
"Exclusivo Africano," the African exclusive,* to¬
gether with those of a certain D. Francisco de
Queiroz, and also a lofty roof, built of wood, in the
Quarter-general.
To D. Antonio de Lencastre, therefore, and to
Governor Chapuzet (1822), we are indebted for the
erection of the ViUa da Praya, which has ever
PUBLIC BENEFACTORS.
101
since been so much increasing in beauty and com¬
fort that at present it may be said to vie with many
of the towns of Portugal
D. Antonio gave the first plan for the construc¬
tion of the town, laid out the streets, and marked
the parts designed for the erection of public edifices.
In his time there were more than twenty houses
erected, aU of which were properly floored. Besides
the road to Fraya Negra, he had two others con¬
structed, leading into the interior—one to Monta-
garro, the other to the Ribeira da Trindade, or
Trinity River; he also made the public gardens
before alluded to.
To Chapuzet the inhabitants are indebted for
carrying out the improvements commenced by his
predecessor. He caused the small cottages thatched
with straw to be removed, and in their places
erected more than forty houses, of different dimen¬
sions, built of stone, and roofed with tiles ; he re¬
moved (as before mentioned) the public gardens
to a more eligible site ; he had a quay formed, but
this was subsequently washed away by the violence
of the sea ; he it was who erected the Fortim
Novo,^ the new little fort ; he also commenced the
building, at great expense, of the garrison barracks,
although he did not complete them. Numerous
other works of minor importance, all tending
towards the promotion of general comfort and
utility, were erected by his orders ; but what de¬
serves particular attention is, that he gave an
102
SUPPLY OP WATEB.
impetus to civilization, whicli has been progressing
ever since, whereby the pleasure and enjoyment
of the inhabitants have been gradually improved.
There are at present about 120 substantial houses,
of various sizes, independent of the cottages form«
ing the Campo da Boa Vista.
The town was formerly wanting in an essential
requisite for its sanitary comfort, which was ulti«
mately supplied by conducting water, by means of
a canal from the adjacent springs, into the town, a
scheme projected so early as 1652, but never exe¬
cuted until 1839. Before that time the inhabitants
and the shipping were obliged to have their sup¬
plies brought from the Fountain Anna, the water
of which, if drunk directly it is drawn, is muddy,
heavy, disagreeable, and considered unhealthy.
Besides this, and the tiresome task of bringing it
in pots up a considerable steep, the expense incurred
to remedy this evil was so great that, in the course
of time, funds fell short. At this critical time
Counsellor Martins (whose name has been more
than once mentioned) undertook at his own ex¬
pense, by means of an iron aqueduct imported
fr,om England, to convey the water two miles
through a vaUey, from his own splendid property,
Montagarro, to high ground in the Villa da Praya.
To reimburse him for his outlay in this useful
undertaking, he was empowered to levy a toU of
about one farthing the barrel, whereas one pot of
water from the Fountain Anna used to cost a half-
WATER FOR THE SHIPPING. 103
penny ; and if obtained from Montagarro prior to
the erection of the aqueduct, it cost b\d. the barrel.
Ships are now supplied at one half the original
price; formerly they paid 35. 4c?. per cask, now
they obtain the same quantity for I5. Sd. Another
advantage obtained by the present improvement is
the saving of the labour required under the old
system, by which they were obliged to roll the
fiUed casks to the boats from the Fountain Anna,
a distance of about a quarter of a müe, in the hot
sun, to say nothing of the chance of imbibing some
salt water on their way through the surf. Now
the casks are slung into the boats by a crane ; and,
in consequence of these improvements, many ves¬
sels prefer watering here to calling at the Canaries
—^for the present system adds to the comfort of the
seamen, reduces the expense, facilitates the depar¬
ture of the ships, and thereby causes the place to
increase day by day in importance. And although
it has been admitted that it is not the most eligible
situation for the capital, not only as being con¬
sidered so sickly, but as not being sufficiently
central, yet, even were the seat of government to
be removed to Mindello or S. Vicente, or to any
of the other islands, it is evident that Villa da
Praya would still retain the pre-eminence in regard
to supplies required for the shipping.
Being invited to dinner by a friend, Mr. Lodi,
the Belgian consul, I partook of Portuguese fare.
The cooking in general is very simple. The princi-
104
PORTUGUESE PARE.
pal nourisliment of the inhabitanta is goat's flesh
(the trade in the skins of these animals being
extensive), sour milk, and Indian corn ; beans,
pumpkins, mandioca, and fish are 'also used as
articles of diet. The maize, or Indian com, they
prepare in various ways, roasted, or more generally
boiled in sour milk. Another dish, which they
call " dormido " (asleep), is prepared by pounding
the maize in a mortar, and, having separated the
husks, boiling it with various herbs, beans, or
pumpkins ; from the flour of the maize they also
make cakes called "batangas," which are baked on
the embers, and are not unlike the maize cakes
prepared in the Province of Minho, in Portiigak
Another kind of cake, called the " cuscus," is pre¬
pared by boiling the best of the flour in an earthen
vessel, the bottom of which is perforated ; and
when the dough has attained a sufficient con¬
sistency, it is cut into thin slices, which are placed
upon cloths to dry in the sun ; when dry, these
cakes may be kept for use for a week.
The inhabitants consider fresh milk injurious.
They also obtain food from the banana, a great
number of which grow spontaneously around, re¬
quiring no more labour than merely cutting away
the old stalks to make way for the new ones.
But what the inhabitants seem to value most is
the sugar-cane, from which they extract quantities
of rum, a liquor which they much prize, and of
which all that they produce is consumed in the
VISIT TO THE OLD CAPITAL.
105
country. The coloured population being very lazy,
the most effectual incentive to labour is the promise
of some rum or brandy.
There are a number of persons called " vadios,"
or vagrants, who live by collecting the orchilla and
purgueira, which they bring to the various ports
for sale. These vadios have a great partiality for
intoxicating drinks, their immoderate love of which,
and their mania for the well-known batuque, or
stamping dance, have been the cause of much
licentiousness, and consequent disease.
I took an after-dinner drive with my friend the
consul in his small carriage, drawn by two little
horses of the breed principally used on the
island. We went to visit the old capital.
Ribeira Grande, or Great River, from which
the place receives its name, is hardly sufficient
to water the adjacent ground. It runs from
north to south, between the high mountains which
extend from Maria Parda (Brown Maria), where
it has its source. Since the removal of the capital
to Villa da Fraya, the town of Ribeira Grande has
fallen much into decay. On the east side of the
stream, where what is considered the best part of
the town is situated, stands the old handsome
cathedral, erected in 1532, with the episcopal
palace, now almost a ruin; the collegiate school,
for the education of the clergy, built at the expense
of Bishop D. Fr. Jeronymo da Barca ; and a con¬
vent for nuns, now also in ruins. The convent is
106 APPEABANCE OF THE COUNTRY.
in one of the most picturesque situations in all the
Cape Verde Islands. The profusion of delicious
fruit-trees, and the pleasing murmur of the stream
as it meanders along, are most grateful to the senses
of sight, smell, and hearing. The domestic archi¬
tecture of the town is very indifferent, and most
\
of the houses that we saw might be more appro¬
priately denominated huts.
The Royal fortress includes within its walls bar¬
racks and powder magazine, and possesses a good
cistern ; from this position there is a commanding
view of the surrounding scenury.
The country on the whole appeared very fine,
and the agricultural productions are on the in¬
crease, notwithstanding the vulgar adage, " even as
the sails at the Cape Verdes become yellow with the
climate," which is true in fact, but not in applica¬
tion, as is seen by the vessels passing the islands,
whose sails having become wet with dew, which is
very abundant during the night, are covered with
dust, which comes in clouds from the islands, and
thus become yellow.
The soil in general is argillaceous, gravelly, cal¬
careous, and volcanic, and produces everywhere
large quantities of orchilla, or lichen rocella^ espe¬
cially on the summits of the mountains. This pro¬
duction grows spontaneously, without the least care
or culture, and has been in great demand at aU the
dyeing establishments in Europe ever since the
eighteenth century.
THE OBCHILLA TRADE.
107
Being the spontaneous production of the soil, it
has always been considered as the legitimate pro¬
perty of the Crown, which has obtained a consider¬
able revenue from it. Its valuable properties were
• -
first discovered in 1730. In 1755 it was farmed
out to private individuals connected with the then
important Portuguese Companhia do Para e
Maranhäo, the company of Pará and Maranhäo,
which at that time possessed extensive factories in
almost all the Portuguese settlements. The build¬
ings erected by the company remain to the present
day, and are considered amongst the most substan¬
tial on the island.
Since 1790, the orchilla trade has been superin¬
tended by an officer of Government, under whose
direction the annual revenue was much increased ;
but owing to the supply of orchilla from Angola,
and the paucity of hands for collecting it at the
Cape Verdes, the trade in it from the latter declined,
untn a decree was issued, on the 5th of June, 1844,
to remedy this inconvenience, and to encourage the
collection of a lichen so valuable to the public trea¬
sury. By this law two parts of the orchiLLa revenue
now revert to the Government, whereby the unre¬
strained liberty of private individuals is curtailed,
and a stop put to a system which was injurious to
the treasury and to the island, and which allowed a
few private persons to derive the principal benefit
from this valuable production.
Maize is sown by the hand in small holes, with-
108 AGRICULTURAL RRODUOTIONS.
out any aid from plough or harrow, and yields,
when the season is favourable, a large increase,
even more jthan a hundredfold. The rainy months
are June, July, and particularly August and Sep¬
tember, the nights being in general cool and fresh,
with an abundant fall of dew. The atmosphere at
this season assumes a dark and smoky appearance.
When rain is withheld (and instances have
been recorded of this being the case, even for years)
a dearth naturally ensues ; and the consequence is,
that numbers both of men and beasts die of famine,
a calamity which unfortunately has lately hap¬
pened.
The other agricultural productions, besides those
already mentioned, are beans of various descrip¬
tions, the honge being the best; it is round and
polished, and is sown in the same manner as maize.
With the exception of Brava, where potatoes are
cultivated to a considerable extent, no other
kind of farinaceous cereals is used so largely
as maize and bonge in any of the Cape Verde
Islands.
Í
Coffee and purgueira, or, as the Spaniards
call it, " Palma Christi," are now also cultivated
for exportation.
The coffee was first introduced into the island of
S. Nicoláo, in 1790, and in a few years after¬
wards it was brought to Santiago. It now rivals
that of the island of S. Thomé, and is considered
as little inferior to Mocha. In the year-of my first
PXJEGUEIBA OIL.
109
visit I was informed that the island had produced
more than 200,000 lbs. ; and if more attention Was
paid by the people to its cultivation, as has been
pointed out by the Government in the instructions
issued to the vicars, the islanders themselves would
be much benefited, and the revenue increased.
The purgueira, now an article of commerce, was
formerly only used for firewood ; it is carefully
cultivated where the soil is considered favourable
for its growth ; the plant, after two years, produces
a fruit from which is extracted a very good oil
used for burning. The return to the planter is
about 1000 per cent, on his outlay. The quantity
at present exported from the Cape Verde Islands
amounts annually to about 550 moios of seed
for crushing, and this amount goes on gradually
increasing.
M. Boumay, a Frenchman residing at Lisbon,
has a lai^ge steam-engine (besides two smaller ones)
for crushing the fruit and extracting the oü. I
have been informed, also, that he has for some
time kept vessels trading in this commodity, and
that lately he has engaged a powerful steamer for
the same purpose.
This gentleman, and the family of the Martins,
are considered by the patriotic islanders as their
greatest benefactors, and a strong feeling of affection
and veneration towards them prevails amongst the
inhabitants.
The.island also produces cotton, indigo, tobacco;
110
COTTON AND INDIGO.
the dragon-tree, yielding a resinous gum, termed
by druggists " Sangue do Drago," or dragon's-tree
blood ; and cochineal, which has only lately been
introduced.
The cotton plant is indigenous ; but it is not so
productive at Santiago as at the other islands more
sheltered from the north-east winds.
In the Ilheo Rombo it grows spontaneously, the
people only gathering and cleaning it, which they
do without any regularity or system. Little la¬
bour is required in its cultivation ; the seed has
only to be cleaned and wetted before sowing, and
the plant trimmed when about two spans high, and
kept free from weeds. Each plant produceSj on an
average, about four pounds of cotton the same year
in which it is sown.
Indigo does not grow so well on this island (or,
indeed, on any of the others) as at S. Antáo. It
is much more delicate, and requires more care and
attention than the cotton plant, and consequently
the expense in cultivating it is considerably greater.
The stems and leaves are macerated in water, and
the residuum reduced to a paste, and formed into
cakes for the dyer.
The latter process, however, increases the expen¬
diture so much that it is seldom effected either at
this island or at S. Antao. The mode generally
adopted is to compound the indigo with certain
herbs, and make it into cakes, which are afterwards
dissolved in water and mixed with ashes, a process
TOBACCO.
Ill
•which produces the beautiful colour seen in the
galants and other sorts of cloths manufactured in
the islands. These cloths are more or less expen¬
sive, according to the various patterns. Some are
very beautiful, and tastefully got up. The cheaper
kinds are mixed with wool, whUe the more expen¬
sive are interwoven with sdk into various patterns
(for scarfs) of about a foot broad, which are sewed
together like jalofes, fules, and mandingas, so called
from being woven in the same description of tem¬
porary looms as are in use among those people.
These machines are formed of pieces of cane
ingeniously put together; and, when they have
accomplished their task, they are thrown away.
Notwithstanding the simplicity of their construc¬
tion, the beauty of the various patterns which they
produce is most remarkable.
In Europe there is an increasing demand for
the beautiful counterpanes manufactured by the
islanders.
But to return from this digression to the pro¬
ductions of the soü, we would observe that tobacco
is one of importance. It grows to perfection, and
is so well prepared that the " Contracto do Tabaco,"
the company which holds the tobacco-contract in
Portugal, has come to an agreement for a supply
from the Cape Verde Islands, to the extent of 5,000
arr'c^as^ for which they are to pay the same price
as for Brazilian tobacco.
The plantations of Draccßna Draw are of great
112
THE DRAGON TREE.
utility to the Cape Verdes, not only for the shade
which they afford (for the tree js of rapid growth,
and in ten years forms a delightful retreat from the
vertical sun), but because when the trunk is pierced.
there exudes a description of resin well known as
*
"dragon's blood." Each tree produces annually
about two pounds weight of this resin, which is
sold on the spot at 3s. 8^d. per pound. *Each tree
also furnishes about four pounds of fibrous sub¬
stance, similar to the coir obtained from the out¬
side of the cocoa-nut, considered good for cables,
for which they obtain threepence per pound ; so
that, besides the delightful shade, the owner derives
from each tree, after two years- growth, an annual
return of about 40?. . The dragon-tree does not at
all interfere with the cultivation of the purgueira,
which grows well in its neighbourhood. The Mor-
gados, the heirs of estates, however, are generally
opposed to the planting of these trees, as it is
asserted that they impoverish the ground, and make
it dry and barren.
The Cactus Coccionilifer^ a shrub on which the
insect producing cochineal is nourished, is becom¬
ing acclimatized in the island. It was first brought
from Teneriffe, by order of Government, some six¬
teen years ago ; and, according to the learned Dr.
Bernardino A. Gomez, the cochineal produced is of
the first quality. When dried in a stove it is at
least equal to the best American, and only second
in quality to the best Mexican. '
PLA2ÎTS AND FßUIT-TEEES.
IIS
Respecting the cultivation of the sugar-cane, to
which the people are very partial, for the sake of
the rum produced, of which, as before observed,
they are very fond, I consider that, for various
reasons, particularly its tendency to encourage
drufikenness, and the scarcity of fuel resulting
from it, it were better to direct their attention to
some "better and safer speculation.
Besides a great variety of European and tropical
fruit-trees, plants, &c., I saw pumpkins of an ashy
colour, called Caqueta, growing in the fields, a
common thick tree, called the Selleri-albi tree,
which affords fire-wood ; a plant having the smeU
of husk ; a description of fruit not unlike a plum,
but large and bitter ; Annona, an Indian fruit ;
Baqueche, which bears an acid fruit used for season¬
ing meats, &c. When at Tarrafal, my kind host
used it in compliment to me, and truth obliges me
to say that in my life I never tasted anything so
displeasing to my palate. They have also the
batata de |)orco, or pig's potatoe, the root of which
possesses the purgative quality of jalap ; the bom-
bardeira, or bombax, a shrub, the fruit of which is
about thé size of a small melon. When ripe, the
fruit bursts, and discovers the seeds encased in a
short, silky substance, which in India is called
paina. I think it is a sort of bombax, or Siamese
cotton, and from it the inhabitants manufacture
mattresses, &c. The wild fig, a shady tree, has a
rapid growth, affords fine wood and timber for
VOL. I. r
114
VEGETABLE PRODUCTlOlíS.
various purposes, and from its root a liquid, used
as a cure for the yellow jaimdice, is extracted by
distillation. The intendent is a shrub resembling
the acacia ; and from the colo, the leaves of which
resemble those of the tea-tree, is obtained a fibre
used in the manufacture of ropes. The mamoeira-
tree produces a fruit called papaia at Brazil, which,
although pleasing to the taste, is considered un¬
wholesome ; palhaféde, or stinking straw, is used as
an astringent in curing wounds or sores, and its ashes
are employed in removing stains. The fruit of the
papaia, as it is called in India, the mamao of
Brazil, is considered good and healthy ; in form it
resembles a melon ; the forta-olho, or eye hurting,
is an astringent shrub, the juice of which is very
injurious to the eye, whence its name-^^it is cona-
dered valuable for tanning purposes ; the zimbrao
is a crooked tree, the trunk of which they cut into
planks for flooring, or usé for the knees of small
boats and pinnaces. On my way to Montagarro,
near to Villa da Praya, I saw the calabaceira adan-
sonia digitataj a curious fruity about the size of a
black melon, with a white pith, so acid as to be con¬
sidered most excellent for lemonade.
Having spoken so much of the vegetable produc¬
tions of the island, I will make a few remarks on
its "live stock." The oxen and cows are short,
small, strong, and well-trained. The cows are never
slaughtered, nor are they milked when suckling
their calves. Bullocks cost from 32s. to 48s. each.
LIVE STOCK.
115
and numbers are exported. Of goats they have
an immense quantity always on hand, although
they annually 'kill large numbers, principally for
the skins, which they export to North America and
Portugal, together with oxhides; for the former,
the price averages from Is. 2d. to Is. 5d., and for
the latter from 3s. 8^d. to 4s., according to their
weight. The goats are very pretty, short-haired,
and of variegated colours. Goat's milk is very
much used as an article of food ; it is soured and
prepared with maize, banana, pumpkin, &c. ; it
almost supersedes cow's milk, of-which they only
make very bad cheese and butter. As a goat costs
about 2s., and the skin, as before mentioned, is
worth, according to the size, from Is. 2d. to Is. 5d.,
it appears that the value of the carcass is only 7d.
or lOd.
There is great abundance of pigs, which are ex¬
ported ; the average price of pork is about 2 Jd,
per pound.
The horses are of the wild race originally im¬
ported from Jalofos and Mandingo ; they are small,
short, and well-formed, capable of great endurance,
and climb hills and precipices with the agility of
goats ; they are not shod ; the general price is from
485. to 805.
The mules and donkeys are similar to those of
Portugal ; they are the only beasts of burden em¬
ployed in loading and unloading the ships.
I 2
116 BIRDS, FISH, AND REPTILES.
There are numerous monkeys, of the species
Mono CaUitricho.
There are no wild beasts on the island.
Flamingoes, with their beautiful brilliantplumage,
are met with ; as also the manoel lobo, a large bird
of prey, of the eagle species, which, however, never
soars so high as that royal bird ; its breast, belly,
and wings are white, and the back black.
Fish abound on the coast.
Of reptiles, the principal are worms ; the earth¬
worm grows very large. There is also a small
worm called " cupim," termes destructor, which
makes great havoc with wood, paper, and, indeed,
almost every pervious substance which comes
within its reach ; it is something similar, to the
celebrated celale, of Angola, BengueUa, &c.
On our way back from our excursion to Villa da
Praya I felt a little feverish, perhaps from the ex¬
citement of our journey, or from the change of
diet, fruits, &c., or from both causes combined. I
was at first afraid that the sickly nature of the
climate had affected me; but on our arrival my.
friends administered some quinine, and I was soon
aU right again.
Next morning we went to see the church of
Nossa Senhora da Graça, and to attend divine
service there. The Bishop of Angola and Congo
preached, to the great satisfaction of the clergyj
who considered such an event as a great compH^
ment. -The battalion of artillery attended ; it is
BULL-FIGHT AT TARRAFAL.
117
formed almost entirely of black men, whose uniform
is a white jacket. After service the men were
paraded, and it was pleasing to see how well
dressed they were, and in how very creditable a
manner they went through all their military evolu¬
tions.
A bull-fight was appointed to take place that day
at Tarrafal, to which I was invited, as were all the
passengers and officers. We were informed that
the officers of the American cruisers were also to be
there, with their band.
There was soon a general movement towards the
point of attraction ; every description of vehicle ob¬
tainable was brought into requisition, besides horses,
mules, and asses. I had thus an opportunity of seeing
many varieties of the rational and irrational ani¬
mals of Africa. Among the former were beauties
of various shades, all in their holiday attire ; some
of the fair sex were adorned with their manilhas,
or arm-bracelets, of gold, silver, and coral. Their
heads were dressed with curious feathers, fastened
in the hair. Some wore a kind of cotton shirt,
with sleeves reaching to the wrists ; petticoats of
printed calicoes, and large handkerchiefs of red or
yellow cotton, disposed in a very coquettish manner,
as if to give the finishing touch to their appearance ;
sashes of native cloth being thrown across the
I
shoulders covered the bosom, and gave the fair
wearers quite a military appearance.
The nhanhàs, or white and mulatto ladies, were
118
BEVIEW OF THE TROOPS.
dressed in European style, although not quite à la
mode de Paris.
The slaves wore no shoes.
The gentlemen rode on high saddles, with large
saddle-cloths of red, white, blue, or some other
glaring colour. The necks of the horses were
ornamented with small beUs, and ^their heads
dressed with gaudy-coloured ribbons.
After the bull-fight, the commandant of the
island reviewed the troops. The artUleiy of the
fine numbered 250 ; the battalion is about 500
strong altogether, but it is dispersed in detachments
over all the other islands. There were three
battalions of militia, viz., the artillery of the Island
of Santiago, the mfantry of ViUa da Praya,
and the infantry of Santa Catharina, amount¬
ing altogether to about 1,000 men. Having
been put through some manœuvres, the soldiers of
the fine went to their barracks, and the others to
their respective homes.
The artfilery barracks which I visited are built
opposite the church of Nossa Senhora. There is a
large door in the centre of the bufidiog, and on
each side of the entrance there are twelve windows,
six above and six beloW, making in all twenty-four
windows in front. Each company has a room,
which is kept very clean, and in which everything
is arrayed in military order. The white soldiers
are convicts ; and discipline is so strictly enforced,
that, as I was informed, the soldiers, on exhibiting
CELEBRATION OF MARRIAGE.
119
the smallest insubordination, are barbarously
flogged, receiving from 500 to 1,000 lashes.
During my stay I was invited to a marriage ;
the principal amusement of the party during the
early part of the day was playing at cards, in which
they seem to take greatest interest, often making
large stakes, and not unfrequently risking or
staking their slaves, who are,- in some instances,
their own children. Many are ruined by their love
of play.
We sat down to a splendid dinner, with a large
number of sweet dishes, which it is their pride to
make a great display of at their feasts ; so great
was the profusion of edibles, that I think there was
quite sufficient for the supply of our ship during
the remainder of her voyage.
After dinner the party engaged in dancing ; and,
with the aid of the polka and other favourite
dances, the time passed away in a very agreeable
manner. The entrance to the saloon was crowded
by slaves, aU dressed in gay attire, the females with
their gold manithas.
When dancing was finished, tea was handed
round, with a profusion of sweets, pies, tarts, cakes,
and wine of such variety and quality as I never
expected to have met with in Africa ; yet it was
only the prelude to what I subsequently witnessed
at Angola.
After tea, the young female slaves, mulattos and
blacks belonging to the house, were introduced into
120
MUSIC AND DANCING.
the drawing-room, for the purpose of exhibiting
their favourite dance, the batuque. The dance was
conducted by a smart, clean, genteel-looking female
slave, who, in an audible voice, ordered the forma¬
tion of the various figures ; the dancers formed a
circle at each end of the room, the leader standing
in the centre. After the first set the whole party
united, and formed into a grand ronde^ singing and
dancing round the leader.
Their music was composed of guitars, flutes, and
the batuque, or tom-tom, which gives its name to
the dance. This instrument is formed of part of
a tree hollowed out, one end of which is covered
with skin ; the music (pardon the expression) is
produced by striking this end, so as to keep time
with the other instrument—all equally unmelodi-
ous; the sound of the whole orchestra playing
together is the most unharmonious and discordant
noise ever made by amateur performers.
In the meantime the gentlemen enjoyed them¬
selves in the passages, and in the verandah, smoking
their pipes and cigars.
When the slaves had finished their dance, the
bride was conducted in great state to the nuptial
chamber, where she remained with a strong guard
of maidens, relatives, and friends ; but these had
not the strength requisite to resist the sudden attack,
of the bridegroom, who, according to usage, nàade
his entrance as if by force, striking, pushing, and
quickly putting to the rout all the female escort.
FUNERAL CUSTOMS.
121
by whom he was at last left in peaceful possession
of his bride.
Soon after I heard a shot from a gun or pistol,
and, fearing it was an alarm of fire, I ran to
enquire the cause. I then heard a vociferous cry
of " Viva ! Viva ! " with loud hurrahs, and saw the
champagne going its rounds, while the people were
all dancing and jumping as if frantic. On enquir¬
ing from my kind friend, the consul, who accom¬
panied me, what was the meaning of aU I saw and
heard, he replied, laughing, " Oh ! nothing, only
they are rejoicing over the innocency and purity of
the bride."
Their funeral customs are equally curious. One
of the most remarkable is that of the choradeiras, or
professional mourners, who hire themselves out to
follow funerals, and accompany the corpse to the
grave, singing a " requiem " on the way. On
arriving at the burial-place, they throw quantities
df aqua benedicta into the grave, returning after-
,wards to the house of mourning, where they con¬
tinue repeating their office three times a-day, for
several days in succession, the intervals being spent
in eating and drinking.
The widows, clothed in sable, continue a month
in retirement, during which time they bewail their
bereavement. The room in which they sit is
darkened, and they recline in bed, while their
female friends, in silence, pay them visits of con¬
dolence.
122
ALL souls' EVE.
This is evidently a very andient custom, as we
may learn from the book of the Prophet Jeremiah,
chap, ixi, 17.
The following custom is also of old date. On
the night of the 1st of November^ the eve of All
Souls' Day, the families and ftiends of deceased
persons repair to the closed doors of the nearest
churches, and there kneel and pray for the repose
of their deceased relatives.
Next day it was announced that the Governor-
general was in sight of the island, and aU the troops
were called out. They soon presented themselves
in full pniform ; and, being drawn up, a line was
formed from the quay to the church of Nossa
Senhora.
The municipality also appeared with their
flag and the keys of the town, so that the " com¬
mandant of the island," and aU the military
and civil authorities, were assembled at the beach
to do honour to the Governor-general, and to
welcome his arrival in the island. A deputation
was sent on board of his Excellency's vessel to
receive him, and conduct him to land. As he
approached the quay, he was received with a
salute of twenty-one guns.
The scene was very brilliant and enlivening.
The flags of the various vessels in the harbour
were gracefully floating in the breeze, and all
those on shore were hoisted on his approach;
the ladies, too, showered flowers in his path as
ANCHORAGE OF SANTIAGO.
123
he passed through the streets, on his way to
church, where the " Te Deum Laudamus" was
sung, after the Bishop, with his clergy, had
received his Excellency under a canopy at the
entrance of the sacred edifice. After divine
service the Governor went, in his carriage, to
Government House, where he held a levee for
the presentation of the clergy, the consuls, the
magistrates, the heads of departments, and prin¬
cipal citizens,, and at which a dyeuner was pro¬
vided. In the afternoon he reviewed the troops,
and at night received the principal inhabitants
at a ball and soupé volant.
I have already mentioned that the island is
crossed in the centre by a range of mountains, in
which rises the celebrated Pico Antonia, almost in
a conical form, about 4,500 feet above the level of
the sea. The south side may properly be denomi¬
nated "the scarp." To the south extends the
Serra dos Orgäos, and to the north the Picos, called
also the " Leitäes," behind which rise the moun¬
tains of Tarrafal, two large mountains which are
the first visible to navigators coming from the
north.
The island of Santiago has three anchorages for
large vessels ; the principal one, which is frequented
by the ships of all nations coming here for trade,
and for the supply of provisions, especially those
calling at or doubling the Gape of Good Hope, is
the Port of ViUa da Praya, situated between the
124 TAKRAFAL AND RIBEIRA GRANDE.
Ponta das Bicudas and Ilheo dos Passaros, near to
which is the Ponta da Temerosa. It is considered
a good and safe anchorage in high winds, but dur¬
ing the spring-tides it is dangerous ; on such occa¬
sions vessels seek for safety out of the port, and
those that are obliged to remain in the neighbour¬
hood of this anchorage, between the months of
June and October, generally move outside of the
points, to the south of Bicudas.
The second port is Tarrafal, near the north point
of the same name; it is considered safe during
spring-tides, but unsheltered during high winds.
There is a good supply of water for ships calling
there for provisions. The supply is brought from
the interior ; but as the port does not possess
many habitations, the houses being principally occu¬
pied as orchilla stores, few vessels, except those
calling for a cargo of this lichen, visit the port of
Tarrafal.
The third port is that at Ribeira Grande, which
was much frequented in the sixteenth and seven;
teenth centuries, when it was the capital of the
island. Since the removal of the seat of Govern¬
ment to Villa da Praya, the town of Ribeira Grande
has fallen greatly into decay ; and as the port is not
well sheltered, and the anchorage is full of sharp
rocks, few vessels anchor there. The only vessels
that now frequent Ribeira Grande are the lambotes,
or long boats, a description of yacht used for trad¬
ing from one island to another. There are several
BIVBRS,
125
other anchorages suitable for this description of ves¬
sel, such as Pedra Badejo, or cod-fish stone, Santiago,
and S. Francisco, at the east ; and southwards,
Caniços, or thin reeds, and Ribeirâo Correa ; and at
the west, the Porto d'Antonia, Ribeira da Barca, or
ferry-boat, &c. Except Ribeira Grande and Villa
da Praya, there are no places deserving the name
of town, or even of village ; there is, however, a
large population dispersed over the island, occu¬
pying country-seats, farm-houses, and huts, par¬
ticularly alongside the plantations, and the banks
of the rivers, especially those of S. Domingos and
Engenho, on the banks of which are found more
than 200 houses.
There are, besides, numerous streams, which
suffice to irrigate the land ; the principal are those
of Bomcae, near to Villa da Praya, Montagarro,
and S. Filippe, distant from which, about one
mile and a half is Caiàda, or white-washed; S.
Francisco, three miles to the east; Trindade,
three miles to the north-west ; S. Martinho, three
miles to the west ; Santiago, six miles to the east ;
Ribeirao Corrêa, at four miles and a half ; Ribeira
das Eguas, or mares' river, at six miles ; Ribeira
Grande, nearly nine miles ; the last three streams
are to the west ; S. Domingos, nine miles north-east ;
and a little more to the north in directions Santa
Anna, Monfaleiro, S. Joao, Ribeira da Luz, Leitäes
Grandes, or large sucking pigs, Leitäes Pequeños, or
small sucking pigs ; Orgäos, or organs; Picos, Santa
126
MAT.ARTA
Catharma, Ribeîra do Inferno, Ribeira da Barca,
Engento, S. Miguel, Boa Entrada, Santo Antonio,
Tarrafal, &c.
The northern division of the island is considered
healthier than the southern ; but both are very
sickly, and it is difficult to propose any antidote
to their insalubrity, as its cause cannot be ascer¬
tained.
Some writers, indeed, assert that it proceeds
from a large central lake, which, although I
have twice visited the island, I never saw. I
have seen but one lagoon, which is in the parish
of S. Miguel, and which receives the waters of a
stream, and, communicating with the sea, rises
and falls with the tides. This may certainly be
considered as a lake or pond ; and as it is this
mixture of salt and fresh water, and the expo¬
sure of mud by receding tides, which, is supposed
to be the cause of malaria at the mouths of the
African rivers, these phenomena may produce
the same result here; but I do not think so, as
Villa da Praya is situated at a distance of eigh¬
teen miles from the lagoon in question.
AR the streams are divided into fifty-four
morgados, or entails, a circumstance which ac-
coimts for the fact that two-thirds of the island
is without irrigation; notwithstanding this,- how¬
ever, about 1,000 moios of maize are exported
every year. This production is sold at the rate
of 25. per alqueire; and, together with the
PAEISHES OF SANTIAGO.
127
other kinds of grain, the vegetables, fruits, fowls,
and cattle supplied to the shippiug, and also
sent to the neighbouring islands, is a source of
large revenue to the inhabitants.
Large fleets have on some occasions called
here, and have been victualled in a few days ; and
Maio is almost dependent upon the island for its
supplies.
Santiago is divided into twelve parishes.
There are two parish churches in Ribeira Grande,
one of which is the cathedral, called the
"Santissimo Nome de Jesus," the most holy
name of Jesus ; the other, Nossa Senhora do
Rosario. Besides the church of Misericordia,
there are at YiUa da Pray a that of Nossa Sen¬
hora da Graça; at Ribeira de S. Domingos, S.
Nicoláo, Tolentino ; Santiago Maior, St. James
the Greater, at Santiago ; Nossa Senhora da
Luz, at the place of the same name ; S. Lourenço,
or S. Lawrence, at Ribeira dos Orgäos ; S.
Miguel, at the place so called; Santa Maria, at
Tarrafal; Santissimo Salvador do Mundo (Most
Holy Saviour of the World), at Picos ; Santa
Oatharma, iu the'Concelho of this name; and
S. Joao Baptista at Ribeira da Luz.
There are also numerous chapels, the principal
one bdng thé Trindade, which was established
by a bishop of the island, who desired that his
remains imght be buried in it. Service is per¬
formed every holiday.
128 DISCOVERY OF THE CAPE VERDES.
The natives of Santiago are very black, pre¬
serving all the distinctive features of the abori¬
gines of the coast of Guinea. A considerable
number of mulattoes are at present mingled with
them.
The white population, including the convicts^
exceeds 1,000 persons, the greater part of whom
reside in Villa da Praya, and its suburbs.
The principal mercantile houses are those of A.
Wattering & Co., A. P. Boija, T. P. Brito, H. J,
Oliveira, J. F. P. Rocha, J. G. Cordeiro, M.
Cardoso, &c., &c.
Belgium has 1 consul; Brazil, 1 vice-consul;
Great Britain, 1 consul and 1 vice-consul ; United
States, 1 consul; Uruguay, 1 consul (for all the
islands).
In reference to the discovery of the Cape Verdes,
some difference of opinion exists regarding the
time. I consider that it is an error to assert that
it took place in 1445-46, as stated by Damiáo de
Goes, in his account of the voyage of Luigi de
Cadamosto to the Coast of Guinea ; or, in 1455-56,
as stated by Tiraboschi, in the first edition of the
"Voyage of Cadamosto," and by Ramusio in thé
second and third edition,
I am also of opinion that Luigi de Cada-,
mosto did not accompany Antonio de Nolle in
his voyage of discovery to the Cape Verdes, and
that he had no knowledge of the situation of these
islands.
EABLY VOYAGES.
129
This opinion is formed after a careful exami¬
nation of the work published by the Viscount
Santarem, " Recherches sur la Découverte des Pays
situés sur la Côte Occidentale d'Afrique au delà du
Cap Bojador,"* and the " Chronica da Descoberta e
Conquista de Guiñé,"f written by Gomes Ennes de
Azurara, in 1453. These works clearly show that,
in the voyage made to the coast of Guinea, prior
to the year 1448, Cadamosto and Antonio de Nolle
took no part; neither are the Cape Verde Islands
once mentioned in either of these works. The
Senegal is said to have been discovered in August,
1446, by certain ships called at that time "caravelas,"
sailing under convoy of Gomes Fires, one of which
belonged to Vicente Dias, a native of Lagos,
in Portugal. But Cadamosto, who went in the
caravela of Vicente Dias to the Senegal, states that
this river was discovered five years previous to that
voyage, a statement which, if correct, would bring
the date of discovery to 1551.
It is indeed impossible at the present day to re¬
concile the conflicting accounts of these voyages, so
as to form a correct opinion regarding them. The
discovery of Porto Santo, and the account given of
the Castle of Arguim, &c., are involved in the
same obscurity, the dates stated by Cadamosto
being quite irreconcilable with each other.
* " Researches respectmg the Discovery of the Countries situated
on the Western Coast of Africa, beyond Cape Bojador."
t " Chronicle of the Discovery and Conquest of Guinea."
VOL. I. K
130
CADAMOSTO.
It is evident, however, I think, that Cadamosto
did not visit the islands until after the year 1446,
and by no means in 1445, as stated by Damiäo de
Goes, a writer who flourished a century later, at a
time when all correct documents bearing on the
subject had disappeared, and those of Azurara and
Cerqueira had become obsolete in Portugal
Damiäo de Goes was under the necessity of seeking
for information in the writings of foreigners, which
are replete with inaccuracies as regards the chrono¬
logical order of events ; and succeeding writers
having followed him, without challenging his cor¬
rectness, or consulting the "Voyages of Cada¬
mosto," by Tiraboschi and Ramusio, have thus
been inadvertently led to ramble on " in endless
mazes lost."
According to the testimony of Azurara, corrobo¬
rated by that of Zurla, the second voyage of
Cadamosto took place in the beginning of the year
1456.
It now remains for me to prove my second pro¬
position, namely, that Cadamosto did not accom¬
pany Nolle in the voyage on which he discovered
the Cape Verde Islands.
I commence with the testimony of Joäo de
Barros, an authority as credible and valuable as
Damiäo de Goes. I wiU also add that of a more
modem writer. Candido Suzitano, whose statements
have not been controverted, and who supports the
foregoing authorities. It may also be observed
THE VENETIAN MERCHANT'S ACCOUNT. 131
that in the national archives there is no mention
made of the Cape Verdes anterior to December,
1460 ; and that it is by no means probable that in
the various nautical enterprises, entered upon
under the patronage of that celebrated colonizer,
Prince D. Henrique, the Cape Verde Islands should
have been passed over in silence for five years, or
that they should have been allowed to remain so
long without being colonized, contrary to the usual
custom in those days, when every new discovery,
and especially those made subsequently to 1461, at
once became the resort of numerous settlers fi*om
Europe. In fact, the first chapter of the account
of the second voyage of Cadamosto, on which his
claim to the discovery is founded, is an episode so
full of errors, contradictions, and incoherencies, that
its veracity cannot be depended on. So that I
think I am home out in my opinion that Luigi di
Cadamosto never saw the islands of Cape Verde,
and had no idea of their correct position.
The foUowing is the account given by the Venetian
merchant: "He sailed in the beginning of the
month of May, passed the Canaries, and arrived at
Cape Branco, where he was assailed by a furious
tempest which set in firom the south-west. He
contended with it during two nights, when the
wind chan^ng to W.N.W., he was enabled to con¬
tinue his voyage ; and, on the 3rd of May, he saw
two large islands, and landed on one, to which he
gave the name of Boa Vista. From the top of one
K 2
132 PRECEDING OPINIONS CONTROVERTED.
of its mountains some of the individuals connected
with his expedition discovered three more, one to
the north, and two to the south ; they imagined
they saw others to the west, but so low as to be
indistinct. Next day he arrived in sight of the
two islands to the south, to one of which he gave
the name of Santiago, or St. James, because he
anchored there on the anniversary of S. Filippe e
Santiago, or Sts. Philip and James. He found
on this island a river of sweet water, from which
he obtained a supply for the expedition. So large,"
he adds, " was the river, that there was sufficient
depth of water for a vessel of seventy-five tons.
By the side of this river his men found small
lagoons of very white and beautiful salt, of which
they carried away a large quantity. They also
obtained a great many turtles, with which they
prepared various dishes, that were much relished."
So far the narrative of the voyage of Cadamosto,
in reference to which I would ask—
1st, Is it possible that, if he only left Lagos in
the beginning of the month of May, and was after¬
wards tossed about in a tempest for some days, he
could have cast anchor at one of the islands of the
Cape Verdes on the day of S. Filippe and St.
Santiago, a festival which Christendom always cele¬
brates on the 1st of May ?
2nd, If this navigator was off Cabo Branco in
more than 20^ degrees of north latitude, and 4^
degrees to the north of Boa Vista, and if bis ship
DISCUSSION OF THE QUESTION. 133
was driven for three days in a direction W.N.W.
out of his course by a furious south-west wind, how
can the supposition that he could, on the 1st of
May, sight the island of Boa Vista, which lay about
300 miles from Cape Branco, be reconciled with
reason ? A voyage like this I consider almost im¬
possible of accomplishment by a sailing vessel ; it
would have been difficult even for one propelled
by steam. The discovery of the Ilha Encoberta,
or the Concealed Island, mentioned with so much
gravity by Faria e Souza, would have been almost
as much within the reach of probability.
3rd, From the island of Boa Vista, in clear
weather, is seen to the north the island of Sal,
which is at a distance of twenty-four miles ; but
the island of Santiago could never, on any occa¬
sion, have been seen from the place mentioned in a
south-west direction—^for it lies at more than
seventy-five miles distance. The island of Maio,
in very clear weather, can be indistinctly seen.
Towards the west is S. Nicoláo, at almost as great
a distance as Santiago. The explorers, therefore,
of Boa Vista could never have discovered more
than one island to the north, and, in fine, clear
weather, the shade of another to the south.
4th, Neither in Santiago, nor in any of the
other Cape Verde Islands, is there a river of sweet
water answering the description given, as there
are only small streams in the interior ; and it is
only when their waters are greatly increased that
134
FALLACIOUS STATEMENTS.
they empty themselves into the ocean—an event
which does not usually happen in the month of
May. Besides, so far from there being a river of
sweet water so large that a vessel of seventy-five
tons might sail into it, there is not even a sufficient
depth of water to float a canoe.
He either deals liberally in irony, or he beheld a
beautiful mirage, such as sometimes deceives the
mariner, as well as those travelling over the deserts
of the Sahara. The islanders would indeed hail
it as an invaluable boon did bountiful nature so
copiously distil her blessings on them.
Neither did I see the lagoons producing very
fine and white salt; nor do I believe that any
ever existed on the island, as there is no place m
which a salt pan could be formed. Neither could
I leam that turtles were ever picked up on any of
the small beaches of the island ; they only visit the
extensive sandy shores of Sal, Boa Vista, and others
of the large Windward Islands.
Surely, then, a narrative so unsupported by fact
cannot merit credit ; too many have already
been led astray by its fallacious statements. The
fact I believe to be, for the various reasons just
mentioned, that Luigi de Cadamosto was a mer¬
chant, and resident in Portugal in 1463, where,
as a mercantile speculation, he published, as his
own, the voyage of Pedro de Cintra^ and also that
of Antonio de Nolle (a Genoese, the first discoverer
of the island of St. lago). In order that these
ANCIENT ABCHIVES.
135
works might appear to be his own productions, he
undertook the task of carefully " cooking " them^
many alterations, with regard to dates and other
changes, hemg introduced, but in such a clumsy
manner as to make it palpable to any reader
of discrimination that he was not the veritable
discoverer.
Had he contented himself with describing his voy¬
age to the coast of Guinea, during two years in
succession, in company with Portuguese pilots of
experience in the Guinea trade, his speculation
would have been more creditable, and no doubt as
lucrative, which was evidently his main object.
He himself states that he " left Venice to go to
Flanders, his main object being to acquire wealth
by all possible means ; and that when at Sagres (in
Algarves, Portugal), he came to the determination
of visiting Guinea, as be heard that for every soldo
invested in the Aiiican trade he would obtain from
seven to ten in return."
In corroboration of the views now enunciated,
I may here mention that among the archives in
the Torre do Tombo, or Tower of Records, there
is a work treating on the islands, wherein mention
is made (page 69) of a grant conferred by King
Dom Manoel, bearing date, "April 8th, 1497," on
Dona Branca d'Aguiar, daughter of Mice Antonio,
the Genoese, Captain of Ribeira Grande, of a por¬
tion of the island of Santiago, with the privilege,
at her father's death, of appointing the husband she
136
MICE ANTONIO.
should select, to be Captain in her father's stead ;
it being also stated that this mark of royal favour
was conferred because Mice Antonio was the first
who discovered and colonized the said island.
In this document, in which the name of Lui^ di
Cadamosto is not even mentioned, we are given
to understand that the colonization of the island
immediately succeeded its discovery, as was usually
the case in those days ; and the preceding statement
taken from it proves that Candido Luzitano is in¬
correct when, in his "Life of the Infanta D.
Henrique,"* he states that " the discoverer of the
island remained unrewarded."
It is therefore plain that the Island of Santiago,
together with those of Maio and S. Füippe, now
Fogo, was discovered on the 1st of May, 1460, by
the enterprising Genoese, Mice Antonio de Nolle,
in conjunction with his two nephews, Bartholo¬
mew and Rafael de Nolle; and there is good
reason for supposing that only two days after¬
wards, viz., on the 3rd of May, when returning
to the coast of Guinea, he discovered the island
of S. Christoväo, which, as before observed, has
subsequently been called Boa Vista.
This discoverer, on his return voyage, touched
at Cape Vermelho, or Roxo. When he arrived in
Portugal with the tidings of his new discoveries,
he found the Infante D. Henrique labouring
under the severe illness of which he died on the
* Yida do Infante D. Henrique.
ANCIENT NAMES.
137
13th of November foUowing, deeply lamented,
not only by the Portuguese nation, but by all
Europe.
On the 3rd December, of the same memora¬
ble year (1460), Eipg D. Affonso V. granted all
the islands discovered up to that period to the In¬
fante 1). Fernando, for his benefit, and that of
his eldest son. This grant was similar to that
of the territory conferred on the late Infante D.
Henrique.
These islands received, on their first settlement
by the Portuguese, names unknown to most at the
present day. In the document above referred
to, Santiago is termed S. Jacobe; Fogo is S.
Filippe; Maio is De las Mayas; S. Christovao
is supposed to be the island now known as Boa
Vista ; and there can be no doubt that Ilha Lhana
was the original designation of the island now
called Sal. Indeed, in consequence of the con¬
tiguity of the two islands, as laid down in the
above document of King D. Aflbnso V. (book
i., p. 61), it would have been almost impossible
to discover Boa Vista without seeing Sal.
In the following year the said Mice Antonio
was sent by the Infante D. Fernando, as cap-
.tain of the islands. He was accompanied by some
servants of the Infante's, who, notwithstanding the
unhealtbiness of the climate, had made up their
minds to settle there. Several individuals from
Algarve, both male and female, had also joined
138
DIVISIONS OF SANTIAGO.
the expedition, their intention being to colonize
the islands of Santiago and Fogo, and to carry on
trade with the opposite coast of Guinea. Among
the names of the original settlers we find those
of Diniz, Eannes, and Ayres Tinoco specially men¬
tioned.
On the 30th May, 1489, in consequence of
the death of D. Fernando, Duke of Bragança,
King D. Joao II. granted to D. Manoel, Duke
of Beja, all the islands of the Cape-Verdes, which
are particularly named in the document, viz.,
Santiago, S. Filippe, De las Mayas, Ilha de S. Chris-
toväo, Ilha do Sal, Brava S. Nicolao, S. Vicente,
Baza, Branca, Santa Luzia, and Santo Antäo.
It was at this period that the island of Santiago
was divided into two Capitainias Mores or High
Captaincies; the southern captaincy, denominated
Bibeira Grande, was granted to Jorge Corrêa, a
nobleman who had married Dona Branca, daugh*
ter and heiress of the first discoverer. Mice Antonio.
This endowment was dated April 4th, 1497. The
northern captaincy was granted to Diego Affionso,
Contador, or Auditor of the Exchequer, of Madeira,
and to his son Johanne, at whose decease it was
to revert to Bodrigo Affonso, one of the council of
King D. Manoel. A donation of the wild cattle
found on the island of Boa Vista was also granted
to him; and this is the first occasion (1497)
on which this name appears in any public • docu¬
ment.
COMMEECIAL ADVANTAGES.
139
At this time, also, these islands were incor¬
porated as a portion of the national property
of Portugal.
In 1505, the only remaining captaincy was
that of Ribeira Grande ; as the northern portion
of the island was then divided into morgadoes, the
first of which were those granted to Diogo Fernan¬
dez, Gonçalvo de Paiva, and ChristovSo Dias.
About this period the great commercial advan¬
tages of Santiago attracted the attention of the
mercantile community; in consequence of which
numerous merchants, gentlemen, and other re¬
spectable people, resorted to the town of Ribeiia-
Grande. The colonists also obtained numerous
slaves from Guinea, and, notwithstanding the great
mortality among the Europeans, the town increased
in extent and population, and several buildings
were erected of freestone imported from Portugal.
King D. Joäo III. was the first who appointed
Capitaes Móres, or High Captains, of the island.
In 1530Martim Affonso, descendant of the grantee,
Rodrigo Afibnso, was appointed the first Captain,
and he took his residence at Ribeira Grande.
During the reign of the. same King this cap¬
taincy became a bishop's see, by virtue of a bull of
Pope Clement VII., dated November 3rd, 1532.
The name of the other Capitaes Móres, who ruled
the island from that period until 1580, is unknown ;
but in that year, when it was attacked and plun¬
dered by the celebrated English Admiral, Francis
1.40
ANNUAL EXPENSES.
Drake, we are informed that it was under the cap¬
taincy of Gaspar Andrade. The last of the Capi-
taes Móres was André Ropoza.
In the year 1592, after the usurpation of the
Philips of Spain, this island was constituted the
capital of the Archipelago, and the residence of the
Governors-general, on some of whom the title of
Capitaes Generaes was conferred.
As this island is the principal one of the group,
it may be necessary to enter more at large into its
statistics. It would have been convenient also to
give at the same time an account of the general
Government of the Cape Verde Islands; but as
their organization approximates very much to that
of the island of S. Thomé and of Prince Island, I
will reserve my observations on that subject until
I come to treat of the Government of Angola.
The annual amount voted for the expenses of
the Cape Verdes is 28,589Z. ; the annual revenue
derived from this Archipelago is 22,275Z., which
shows a deficiency of 6,314Z.
Leaving Santiago, we soon discovered the high
peak of the island of Fogo, rising 8,880 feet above
the level of the sea. The volcano on the top
is celebrated for its eruptions, especially those in
the years 1680, 1785, and 1799. Since the
latter date, although it emitted smoke occasion¬
ally, until 1816, when it was supposed to have be¬
come quite extinct, the young men in the vicinity
had been in the habit of descending into the crater
FOGO.
141
for the purpose of procuring brimstone, large
quantities of which are deposited in it Unfor¬
tunately the demand for this article is very small ;
and they have not derived much benefit from their
enterprise.
On approaching the island, it presents at a dis¬
tance the appearance of a large buoy, with a front
of about a mile and a half in extent towards the
entranced
Fogo is forty-five miles in circumference, and
although apparently nearly spherical, it becomes
narrower to the west. It is about fifteen miles
from west to east, from the port to the point near
to Monte de Losna, or Wormwood Mountains; and
about fourteen miles from north to south, from
Ponta dos Mosteiros, or Convents, to the Ponta do
Alcatraz, or Sea-guUs. The distance from the Pico
to the town is fifteen miles, and not twenty-one, as
has been asserted. The area of the island is cal¬
culated to be (independently of the peak) 144
square miles.
The Ponta dos Mosteiros forms to the north
two places of shelter for pinnaces and lambotes
during rough weather ; one of these is to the east
of the point, and is cáüed the Portinho. Its situa¬
tion is near to the Cháo das Caldeiras, or the
boiler's ground, which is a valley formed by one of
the volcanic eruptions in former times, and in which
some craters, containing brimstone, are still to be
founds
142
POETS.
The soil around this locality is considered as pro¬
ductive as any on the island.
The other small port to the west of the same
point, possesses accommodation similar to that of
the Portinho, and is only suitable for pinnaces or
lambotes. It is called " Portinho das Salinas."
The principal port is Nossa Senhora da Luz,
sheltered to the north by a high rock, which so
effectively protects the anchorage, that even during
the high winds, when the sea runs high on the out¬
side, inside it is almost perfectly calm. The an¬
chorage is about ten fathoms deep, with sandy
bottom, and environed with rock.
Landing is attended with great incovenience,
and indeed is sometimes almost impracticable, es¬
pecially during high winds, in consequence of the
the great surf beating in on the beach.
When the weather is comparatively calm, the
negroes convey both passengers and goodff from
the boat to the shore on their shoulders, manifest¬
ing great care in preserving their burden, whether
animate or inanimate, from receiving any damage <
from the sea-water, an object in which they are
generally, yet not always, successful.
On this beach of Nossa Senhora da Luz stands
the Custom-house, as also some mercantile stores
containing maize for the supply of the shipping ;
but the only persons who remain at the port during
the night are a few guards, as the place is not
regularly inhabited. A ruined fort may be ob-
streets and gardens. 14s
ssrvcd. ovcrliRDging tliG port j and towards the gx-
trcniG WGSt is tliG rGinaiiis of an old paved road, at
the top of which are the ruins of a fortified gate,
built by Christováo de Gouvêa Miranda, in 1580,
which forms the principal entrance into Villa de S.
Filippe.
This town may be considered large, being about
one mile long and half a mile broad. It is advan¬
tageously situated on the slope of a hill, rising
gradually from the water's edge. The island of
Brava, which is only about ten miles distance, is
plainly seen from the town. Looking towards the
interior, the eye is gratified by numerous gardens
and farms in a flourishing condition. From on
board the ship the scene presented is most beauti¬
ful ; in the distance are numerous houses, built of
stone and covered with tiles, amongst which here
and there rise majestically the lofty spires or bel¬
fries of eight churches and chapels.
However, on entering the town, several buildings
are found to be in ruins. This is owing to the
fact that the greater part of the present inhabitants
devote most of their time to agricultural pursuits,
and consequently live in the country, attending to
their farms, which they cultivate with most praise-
. worthy assiduity ; but it is surely bad policy to
allow the beauty of the town to deteriorate.
The inhabitants suffer from the want of a suffi¬
cient supply of drinkable water ; what there is, is
eonvayed from a distance of about six miles in
goat-skins.
144
MOSTEIROS,
The shipping, however, does not experience the
same inconvenience, as boats can be sent round to
the springs on the beaches of Ladräo, or " Thief,"
and of Pena, or " Sorrow," where there is an abun¬
dant supply.
These springs are supposed to owe their origin
to volcanic eruptions, but it is remarkable that the
majority of them are inaccessible from the land
side.
At Mosteiros there is a small stream ; at Palha
Carga, or " Load of Straw," there are two springs,
but in the interior there is only one. From the
latter the town obtains a supply of pure, sweet, cold
water, which bursts forth in copious streams from
the mountain opposite the peak, and at about six
miles distance from the town.
The want of a supply of water, at once sufficient
and convenient, is severely felt by the inhabitants
of the town; and he would indeed be a public
benefactor who could devise some means—either
by an aqueduct, or by Artesian wells—of providing
this great desideratum. I am of opinion that it
would not prove a difficult task to obtain a suffi¬
cient supply, as, at every volcanic eruption, there
appears to have been large quantities of water
ejected from the bowels of the earth—and indeed in
many places it is obtained even from the fissures o£
the rocks.
If an object so desirable were accomplished, the
island would be much more productive, and trees
s. FÎîLIPf^.
145
would be found to cover: tbose masses qf lava which
now appear so bleak and rugged. - The inhabitants
-ç^ould thus obtain not only a sufficient supply of
firewood, but also a comfortable shade, which is
much wanted, as this island is one of the hottest of
the Cape Verdes. The heat is sometimes so intense
that the cattle are kept indoors during the day,
and turned out to graze at night ; and the nights
are often so warm that the . inhabitants are Obliged
to sleep with their windows open.
Upon the hill before mentioned stands the town
of S. Filippe, This hill also divides the port from
another, called " Porto da Scilla," which is open to
the west, and not nearly so capacious. The town
is situated at the base of an almost perpendicular
rock, on which an inconsiderable battery, mounting
six guns, and. commanding the port, is situated.
It is called the " Presidio."
This battery forms part of the toTO. The
barracks and the military prison are erected in
its immediate neighbonrhood.
The landing-place is quite as bad as that at the
port of Nossa Senhora da Luz, and the approach
to the town is by a steep road—so steep that, at
high water, in loading the vessels with maize, it
is run down through a trough or wooden funnel
from the town into the hold ofi the ¡vessel.
In calm weather vessels resort to Porto da Scilla
to take in at high water their cargoes of maize;
VOL. I. L
14Ö
A STRANGE PHENOMENON.
but when high winds prevail, the port of Nossa
Senhora da Luz is preferred.
There is a strange phenomenon peculiar to these
ports, which is worthy of notice. The rocky
bottom of both these anchorages is covered with a
sufficient quantity of sand- to enable the vessel at
anchor to hold fast ; but it happens that, during
the prevalence of the south winds in the month of
June, the sand is removed from the port of Hossa
Senhora da Luz, which is open to the south-west,
and the rocky bottom is left almost bare. On the
other hand, the sand accumulates in Porto da
Scilla, from which, in the month of November,
during the prevalence of the well-known high
winds, the sand migrates back again, leaving the
bottom of Porto da Scüla almost bare in its turn.
At the time of high water, the port of Porta da
Garça is generally entered from the north ; but in
coming from the north-west great caution is neces¬
sary in approaching it, as seven large boulders oï
rocks, known as the " Sete Cabeças," or the seven
heads, which are very dangerous, rise up in the»
very course which vessels entering the harbour froni
this direction must take.
When no rain falls for a considerable time Fogo
suffers much from famine. On the return of salu^
tary showers, however, the island soon recovers its
prosperity ; glad Nature assumes her holiday
attire, and, by the aid of the fertile lava soil,
her cornucopia is again abundantly filled.
EXPORTATION OF MAIZE.
147
Many European fruits grow to great perfection
on the island, such as apples, apricots, peaches, and
very fine grapes. There is also a good supply of
choice culinary vegetables.
The maize of Fogo is considered the best grown
in any of the Cape Verde Islands. It exports an¬
nually about 600 moios, which, at I5. lOd, per
aliqueire, or bushel, realizes a good revenue. This
quantity is independent of what is consumed on
the island for all domestic purposes ; the quantity
used for the household, and also for feeding fowls,
pigs, &c., is very considerable. I have thought
that in consequence of the abundant supply of
such, and the contiguity of salt, this island would
be an excellent place for preparing provisions for
supply of the Portuguese navy. Some merchant
vessels avail themselves, even at present, of the
benefit it offers in this respect.
The largest exportation of maize at present is to
Madeira, the demand for Lisbon having ceased in
consequence of the increased cultivation of this
grain, and also of rice, in Portugal.
At present the principal commodity exported to
the metropolis of Portugal is tobacco, an article
which affords a good profit to those engaged in
its cultivation..
The orchiUa of Fogo is considered inferior to
that obtained at the other islands, and is not,
therefore, so much attended to ; it is called
" Escana." The inhabitants use it in colouring
L 2
148
CLIMATE AITD DISEASE.
cotton cloths, something similar to that of nan¬
keen.
There is also, as before observed, an abundance
of brimstone, pumice-stone, sulphate of soda, am¬
monia, salt, and excellent stone.
The inhabitants manufacture gakms, pannos
(Fobra^ and counterpanes of various qualities and
prices, according to the tnandigas system, to which
allusion has already been made.
Fogo may be considered quite as healthy as Boa
Vista. Carneirades, or agues, are almost unknown ;
neither are there what are termed endemic diseases ;
and indeed there is no doubt that in many parts of
Portugal there is a greater annual mortality than
that of this island. True, a certain number of íd-
dividuals, whose means of support are very limited,
and whose avocations oblige them to be much ex¬
posed to the vertical rays of the sun, are liable to
the attacks of fever, and other diseases ; but these
are in general soon cured by the application of
their own simple remedies. There is neither doc¬
tor nor apothecary in any of the islands, a circum¬
stance which some consider a peculiar blessing,
while others are inclined to regard it in a contrary
light. The more opulent have their domestic dis¬
pensaries, for the benefit of their families and
fiiends.
The island, which forms one Concelho, is divided
into four parishes—the town of S. Filippe being
one, and S. Lourenço, Nossa Senhora da Luz, and
VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS.
149
Santa Catharma, tlie three others. To the church
of S. Filippe is attached a neat building, called
the "Misericordia."
Independent of the churches belonging to these
parishes, there are the ruins of five chapels in the
town, and of some others in various parts of the
island.
The finances of the municipality, in common
with those of the other islands, are in anything but
a flourishing condition.
The principal houses at Fogo are those of B. V.
Vasconcellos, J. G. Barbosa, the United States Vice-
consul, and J. J. V. Vasconcellos. There are,
however, numerous white families, who ori^nally
came from Madeira. The white women are in
general very beautiful. Here also, as at Boa Vista
and Brava, the number of whites is greater than
that of the coloured people.
The volcanic eruptions already alluded to have
sometimes been attended with earthquakes, espe¬
cially that of 1680, which was felt throughout the
whole island. On that occasion the overflow of
lava was so great, that the p*operty of several
planters was completely destroyed, and they were
obliged to remove to Brava. To add to the
calamity, this unfortunate occurrence took place
during the prevalence of a famine.
From the period when misfortune thus visited
Fogo, may be dated the commencement of the pros¬
perity of the island of Brava. Hitherto the latter
150
DISCHARGE. OF SAND.
had only been inhabited by a few coloured people
—^free negroes—brought from Fogo and Santiago ;
but since that period it has continued to prosper,
while, on the other hand, Fogo has been rather on
the decline.
The second eruption on record occurred in
y
August, 1799, and has been considered one of the
most terrific. It commenced at 8 o'clock in the
morning, by a loud subterraneous noise, resem¬
bling thunder; soon after a large hole was ob¬
served in the cliff, from whence issued a cloud of
ashes and sand, which for a time darkened the
atmosphere to such a degree that it appeared as
if the sun was set. Immediately afterwards com¬
menced a shower of sand, which covered the sur¬
face of the island to about the" depth of a foot ; so
extensive was this shower, that it reached the island
of Maio, seventy miles distant.
During the night the whole island appeared as
if illuminated, and the light was so brilliant that
it was seen at a distance of twenty-one miles.
There was first a discharge of sand fipom the*
aperture, after which there came an immense
stream of lava ; which continued to flow for about
twenty-seven days. In its progress it carried
away and destroyed houses, and cattle, and farms.
When it reached the river of Palha Carga it con¬
gealed and accumulated ; a branch which reached
the sea congealed there, forming an oblong mound
on the shore.
OTHER ERUPTIONS.
151
The principal stream of lava, however, is sup¬
posed to have extended its baneful influence for
about forty fathoms into the ocean, in consequence
of which an immense quantity of fish were found
dead on the shore, and floating on the water.
After this eruption it was found a new bay had
been formed in the island, and that two springs of
fresh water had burst forth, which continue to the
present day.
There are even now some parts of the island
where the lava is so very hot as to be capable of
cooking eggs.
The eruption of 1795 continued during thirty-
two days. It commenced on the 24th of January,
and subsided on the 25th of February.
There was another eruption in the year 1817,
and another so recent as the year 1857^ From
the accounts received, dated "November 28th,
1857," the lava was then flowing in great strength
in the parish of Santa-Catharina.
Fogo, as before stated, was discovered at the
same time as Santiago, and received the name of
S. Filippe. In 1461 the Infante D. Fernando sent
his servants to colonize it.
In 1510 FernSo Gomes, who was the first to hold
a grant of the island as captain, founded the town
of S. Filippe.
The original name of S. Filippe was afterwards
changed by the inhabitants to that of Fogo, or
"Fire," when they found, from sad experience.
152
ILHEO GÂANDÎÎ.
that it contained so much of that element in its
bowels.
Leaving Fogo behind us, we immediately saw to.
the west the island of Brava, and its two "IlhéoiS
Seceos," or Dry Islets, lying on its north side.
The first of these islets, which is the most
easterly, is called " Ilhéo Grande," ^ and is three
miles in extent. The second islet, the one nearest
to Brava, and behind the Ilhéo Grande, is caUed
the "Ilhéo Rombo," or Round Islet, and is not
more than one mile and a half in extent.
Near to these islets are. several others; but ves¬
sels pass safely between them, as the water is of
great depth.
Ilhéo Grande and Ilhéo Rombo are uninhabited,
as there is no fresh water to be found on them ;
and hence the epithet " Seceos," by which they are
distinguished. I was informed that jet, or agate,
is found on ihem ; and that the growth of cotton,
which is here a spontaneous product of the soil,
more abundant than in any of the other islands.
I was also informed that a quantity of cry^nRi^^
salt was found among the rocks.
Much amber is also washed on shor^ but it is
inimediatdy devoured by the numerous large and
small birds which fi^quent the coast, numbeis of
which are killed by persons from Brava, who eca-
tract fiom them a quàntity of lamp-oil.
There is also a good supply of fish found in the
surrounding' watersi
BRAVA.
153
To the south of these islets lies the'small, but
beautiful and healthy, island of Brava, where the
Governor-general of the Cape Verdes generally
resides. It is, however, by no means eligible for
the seat of a capital—as, being the last of the
Leeward Islands, and having only, as ports, small
inlets, incapable of receiving more than about
twelve ships, it is so remote not only from the great
centres, but also from the ordinary route of com¬
merce. The inhabited part of the island is also at
some distance from the coast, and the town con¬
tains no buildings suitable for a place pretending
to the distinction of a capital.
The island is only seven miles long from north to
south, and about six broad from east to west
towards the northern end; but it becomes consider¬
ably narrower towards the south, where, at the
Ponta Brava, it is not'more than two miles wide.
Its circumference is not much more than eighteen
miles, and its area is calculated at about thirty-six
square miles.
Whalers frequently call there, ' although there is
but one well-sheltered port, the others scarcely
admitting of being termed anchorages.
Furna, the small sheltered bay ^above referred
to, is about 600 feet wide, and about 1,200 feet
long, presenting something of the ; appearance of a
large basin or dock. It is situated at the south¬
east point of the island, called Ponta do Jabundo.
The entrance into this smaU port is from the
154
POET AND ANCHOBAGE,
south-east. A custom-house and the principal
stores are established here.
Governor Fontes has lately had a fort erected
here for the defence of the port.
The anchorage is good, especially in high
winds; but during spring tides it is not so safe,
as it is much exposed to the south and south¬
east winds. On such occasions the best and safest
anchorage is Fajam d'Aqua to the north, three
miles from Furna. It is a very small one, not
having accommodation for more than four or five
ships, moored stem and stern. The bottom is
clean, with from eight to ten fathoms of water;
and the anchorage is easy of access, and well-
sheltered from the south winds. It also possesses
the advantage of a good supply of fresh water,
from a stream which, as it proceeds along, fertilizes
the valleys through which it flows—especially one,
which presents the appearance of being weU culti¬
vated. It finally empties itself into the sea at the port.
The port of Ferreiros is to the south-west oi
the island, and is well sheltered, except from the
south-west wind. The quay is formed by a rock,
outside of which not more than three or four vessels
can be moored at once by stem and stern.
Into this small port or anchorage there flows a
stream, which, although small, fertilizes the land
through which it passes. To the north-west, near
.the point, stand the rmns of a small battery. Ships
calling at any of these places are immediately sup-
SALTPETEE.
155
plied with whatever refreshments they may require :
these are brought from the interior of the island,
there being, as before remarked, no inhabitants re¬
sident on the shore.
There is also at the south-west side the port of
Anciäo, near to the south point of the island, where
there is a good sandy bottom and safe anchorage,
with from twelve to fifteen fathoms, for about a
dozen ships; but it is seldom any call, as they
cannot obtain either water or provisions there,
owing to its being so far distant from the part of
the island which is inhabited.
A dry valley between rocks leads to the port. In
one of the rocks, to the S.S.W., and near to the
port, are cavities extending to a considerable
depth, formed of primary rocks, and sheltered
from the rain. From these, at various depths, a
quantity of saltpetre is obtained, the veins varying
in thicknesses from that of a knife-blade to about
two inches. The people collect it from the surface
and out of the fissures ; and where these are deep
they use bricklayers' hammers and axes, penetrat¬
ing the veins to the depth of one foot, or one foot
and a half. The place is dangerous and difficult of
access, the men employed being obliged to de¬
scend by means of a rope. Had they better tools,
and an easier and safer method of getting to the
scene of operation, there is no doubt but that they
would be well remunerated for their trouble.
The rock presents a black and burnt appearance.
156
MINERAL TREASURES.
without vegetation, except at a spot where a small
stream has its origin, where grow some graminous
herbs and stunted shrubs, called " taraffé," which
resembles in appearance the "sabina folio cupressus."
It is supposed that if this part of the island were
properly explored by some scientific person, duly
qualified, a mine of copper, or some other metal,
might be discovered.
Roberts says he "found on this island sands
different in colour and weight, and some heavier
than iron." Without stopping to examine into the
correctness of these assertions, we would observe
that the various mountains which rise in succession
one above another give unmistakable evidence of
there being metals not far beneath the surface ; and
as further proof, it may be mentioned that of the
springs, that which is near to the inhabited part of
the island, of which great use is made, is called
Fonte de Vinagre, or Vinegar Spring, because the
water issuing from it is quite acid. After stand¬
ing, however, twenty-four hours, it loses all its
acidity, and becomes both agreeable and whole¬
some. It is said also to possess the quality of
creating an appetite, and promoting digestion*
The water of another spring at Furna,' although
affording an agreeable drink, discolours any silver
immersed in it, instantly turning it black.
But while the wealth hidden in the earth re¬
mains undisturbed, the surface is to somè extent
profitably cultivated, and ' might be more so, were
oeghilla.
157
it not that the natural sluggishness of the soil is
more than equalled by -the laziness of man, a
complaint which extends to almost all the other
islands.
Small as Brava is, it is independent of other
places for its home consumption, and annually ex¬
ports more than 400 moios of maize—equal to that
of Fogo in quantity, quality, and price—together
with beans, potatoes, and other vegetables ; with
these it annually supplies about fifty ships, which
call there principally for provisions and water.
Besides cereals, there is a good supply of fowls
and pigs, the latter being of a superior description ;
the meat is considered to possess a peculiar deli¬
cious flavour.
It was on this island that Roberts, an English¬
man, in 1730, first discovered orchiUa, of which he
gave secret intelligence to the Spanish Government
at Teneriffe. The Spaniards immediately de¬
spatched persons to gather it, paying them at the
rate of one Spanish dollar for 128lbs. This di¬
rectly attracted the attention of the Portuguese
Government, and of the Jesuit, priests, who applied
to King D. Joao Y. for the exclusive right of
gathering " the little herb," as they called it. But
the King having in the meantime been well in¬
formed as to the proper value of "the little herb,"
declined'granting the boon, and issued instructions
to the effect that aU of this article found on any of
the Cape Verde Islands should be considered the
158
s. JOAÓ BAPTISTA.
exclusive property of the Crown. This order was'
subsequently extended to the Portuguese settle¬
ments on the coast of Africa.
Brava has no roads, and the approach to S. Joäo
Baptista, the name of the inhabited part, is so
rough and dangerous, as to appear almost imprac^
ticable; and were it not for the sagacious and
patient beast of burden used by the people to
transport their goods from one place to another,
intercourse between the different parts of the island
would be exceedingly difficult. The donkeys and
mules, with loads on their backs, will climb the
precipitous mountains and hills, and descend with
as great safety, if not with the same agility, as the
wild goats who inhabit them.
The island is considered as healthy as any dis¬
trict in Portugal, or in any other part of Europe.
It is much cooler than S. Vicente, and also more
humid, in consequence of the clouds which so fre¬
quently refresh and fertilize it, as well as the
numerous streams which burst from its rocky
foundations.
%
The principal inhabited place, as before men¬
tioned, is S. eJoäo Baptista. The space here occu¬
pied embraces more than two miles of cultivated
ground, on the tableland on the top of the moun¬
tain, to the east, and facing the island of Fogo.
There is no assemblage of houses that can be
called a village, but a number of farms adjoining
each other. These all have their gardens of fruits
THE INHABITANTS.
15?
and flowers, together with their kitchen garden.
In the centre of each garden stands the dwelling-
house. Altogether it is a delightful place, and
looks like one extensive garden.
What the inhabitants have most to deplore is the
want of trees, not only for shelter, but for fuel, as
they are obliged to import their firewood. The
poorer of the people burn dried cow-dung. I can¬
not understand why they do not make an effort to
remedy this evU, which I consider might be done
not only without in any way injuring their cul¬
tivated grounds, but, on the contrary, with great
benefit to them.
The principal inhabitants are whites and mulat-
toes, there being no negroes but the slaves belonging
to the different farms, &c. Numbers of the people
came originally from Madeira. They are very
affable and hospitable. Their manner of express¬
ing themselves in Portuguese is much purer than
that of any of the other islands. They are consi¬
dered excellent agriculturists, and many of them
are very partial to a maritime life, and soon be¬
come good saüors. Numbers embark in the Ameri¬
can and English whalers, the captains of which
prize them so much that they generally obtain high
wages. Some of them also enter the navy.
The^principal mercantile house is that of J. R.
Silva, who also acts as Vice-Consul for the United
States.
The island is formed into one Concelho, but is
160 PARADISE. OF THE ARCHIPELAGO.
divided into two parishes, the principal one being
S. Joäo Baptista—^the other, a new one, dedicated
to Nossa Senhora do Monte.
The island is So healthy, and presents such a pleas¬
ing appearance, that many denominate it, and not
without reason, " The Paradise of the j^chipelago."
It is only about nine miles distant from Fogo ;
and no doubt the first discoverers, seeing it covered
with mists and clouds, and smaU in size, gave it
the unenviable name of " Brava," or Wild, a name
which it has since retained, and which is completely
at variance with its present appearance.
Some liberated slaves from the island of San¬
tiago and Fogo once came over ; and, having
built rude huts, they cultivated small portions of
the ground, rearing, also, fowls, pigs, and cattle,
which they sold to vessels calling for provisions,
and also to fishing-boats, which paid occasional
visits. In the course of time the value of tiié
island became known ; but it was not until the
year 1680, when the great volcanic eruption, before
noticed, devastated Fogo, and destroyed the farms,,
that the colonization of Brava may be said to have
commenced. Those whose properly had been
destroyed at Fogo emigrated to Brava ; and, after
settling there, such was the fertility of the island
that they soon found themselves in prosperous
circumstances.
The island has never been granted to any
one captain, neither have any entails been estab-
ENTAILS.
161
lisKed there ; and the prosperity of Brava is a
striking proof of the pernicious nature of the
entail system. Each inhabitant is a proprietor,
and consequently every available portion of the
island is usefuUy and judiciously cultivated ;
whereas, when under entails, the property belongs
to another person, and the temporary occupier
will not make the same efforts for. its perma¬
nent improvement, but wiU try to force as much
as he possibly can out of the soil during his
occupancy.
VOL. I.
M
162
CHAPTER IV.
Senegal—^Island of St. Louis—French Hospitality—Palace of the
Governor—^The Hospital—^The Caserne d'Orléans—^The DweUing-
houses of the Blacks—^Polygamy—^The Mosque—^Marabouts—^He
Criminal Laws of tiie Natives—Religious Festivals—A Romantic
Story—^Wives of Appointment—^Peculiar Customs in Courtddp—
Marriage Ceremonies—^The Mouth of the Senegal—^Voyages for its
Discovery—^The Narratives of Cadamosto and Former Navigatoif,
—Civilization of the Negroes—^Progress of Portuguese Trade—
Smuggling—Loss of Early Portuguese Conquests.
Having been detained so long among the Cape
Verde Islands, we now proceed towards the coa^
Government sometimes necessarily causes its ser¬
vants to make a detour; and so it was on the pre-'
sent occasion, for we were obliged to change our
course to windward, and then, taking an easterly
direction, to come along the coast to the Senegal
(in 16° 0' North lat., and 16° 33' West long, from
Greenwich).
The island of St. Louis^ on which is the capital of
the French possessions, is twelve miles from
ST. LOUIS.
163
the mouth of the river ; and the land, or I should
rather say the sand (for it is only a large shoal), is
about 2,000 French inetres in length, and about
500 in breadth. It is difficult to distinguish it at a
distance, as it is generally hid by the clouds which
envelop it.
As seen from the sea, St. Louis has the appear¬
ance of a Greek town, in consequence of the
numerous verandahs, balconies, and terraces, sur¬
rounded by colonnades, upon which the sun shines,
giving them (in the distance) the appearance of
alabaster, porphyry, marble, &c. ; but on landing,
lo ! the scene is changed, like some fair actress
who, seen in the distance, gaily dressed and rouged,
appears most enchanting, but who, when you are
afterwards permitted to converse with her behind
the scenes, assumes an aspect totally different from
that of the person whom a little before you had so
much admired.
On the west appears a very narrow piece of
sandy land, running out into the sea, and sepa¬
rating it from the river. It is covered with an
immense number of aquatic birds. There is no
native or European building on the west side of the
Senegal river.
The only object in the distance is the lighthouse,
with its lanterns and towers. The other side is
barren ; but about, six miles from the entrance of
the river there is a beautiful tillage called Gandióle,
which appears as an oasis in the midst of sterility
M 2
164
STEIFE OF TONGUES.
and desolation. At the south point, instead of
those handsome colonnades and splendid buildings,
reminding one of ancient Greece, there is only to
be seen a miserable battery, most of the guns of
which lie buried in the sand ; with a number of
huts, in the shape of bee-hives, and covered with
reeds, detached from each other, with blackened
walls, and remnants of fish suspended from the
roofs : their appearance altogether being very un¬
prepossessing.
On the bank of the river there lies an accumur
lation of mud, on which a number of wretched-
looking female negroes sit here in squalid nakedness,
smoking their pipes with the greatest tranquillity,
and looking with the most stolid indifference at
the vessels as they pass.
The traveller may, however, comfort himself with
the hope of being soon introduced to a more
civilized and pleasing prospect : he proceeds,
trusting soon to see the rough quay and neat brick
walls ; but on his first landing he is assailed by a
troop of nasty, half-naked black females, clapping
their hands, whistling, laughing, and making an
indescribably fearful noise, which, together with
their horrible dancing and singing, causes such a
discordant Babel of sounds, as would be sufficient
to make any nervous persons retreat faster than
they came, and take refuge in their boats from this
" strife of tongues ; " but if the new comer will
make up his mind to endure aff patiently, and
FBENCH HOSPITALITY.
165
brave every difficiilly, be must force his way
through, when he will find the fable of the boys
and the frogs reversed, and that that which is al¬
most death to him is really a pleasure to them,
for they are only, in their own uncouth way,
welcoming him on his safe arrival on their
shores.
The traveller, who thus nobly meets and over
comes the first difficulty, may now feel encouraged
to proceed, animated by the hope of soon reaching
an asylum. Perhaps he already fancies himself
comfortably ensconced in his hotel; but on en¬
quiring his way to the nearest one, what is his
dismay when he is informed that there is not one !
He looks appalled for a moment—^but only for the
moment—^for he is soon relieved from his embar¬
rassment by the proverbial politeness and hos¬
pitality of the French people, who are the principal
inhabitants of the place. As soon as a vessel
arrives, they are in the habit of meeting the
strangers at the landing-place, and, in the kindest
manner, invitmg them to their homes, to partake
of their hospitality.
The palace of the Oovemor, or, as the natives
call him, " Borom N'Dar," or Chief of N'Dar,
although mostly built of wood, has a very neat
appearance. It is large, with a number of offices
adjoinmg, for the various official departments.
The hospital is decidedly the best government
establishment in the place. What an unspeakable
166
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
blessing in a sickly climate, such as that of Western
Africa !—especially when, as in the present instance,
it is built in such a favourable situation, and kept
so clean and orderly, and supplied with such good
provisions and so excellent a dispensary, and, what
is still better, with such skilful doctors (for of
what avail would aU the other appliances of comfort
be without their aid ?) ; and that these gentlemen
are skilful, full proof is given in their succes^d
treatment of the patients committed to their care,
and in the number who, under Providence, are
quickly restored to health by their attention.
The Caserne d'Orléans, or barracks, is nearly
new, and very commodious, and, I believe, accom¬
modates about 1,200 men ; although I cannot say
what the strength of the French garrisons on the
Senegal, at St. Louis, Podor, Fort Charles,^ Goree
Island, &c., is, though I have since heard that
there are at St. Louis about 800 French, and 250
or 300 black soldiers.
The church, although poor, is clean and decent,
having much of the appearance of a Portugu^e
village church. The streets are very dusty ; as at
Cape Town, the capital of Cape Colony, when the
wind is high, dense clouds of dust arise, and almost
darken the atmosphere.
The south and north of the island are inhabited
principally by black people, whose huts are formed
of cane. The residence of each person forms a
separate group of these huts, but they nevertheless
POLYGAMY.
167
preserve tolerable order in their disposition, and
are arranged so as to form streets. In the front
the master resides with his wives, and the wings
are appropriated to his slaves ; there is also an
extensive yard, which is generally occupied by the
children, fowls, and pigs ; and here also the women,
singing, and apparently happy, cook and prepare
the maize or millet—^the men not allowing the use
of any machinery to lighten their labour, as it is
for this purpose in particular that they take their
wives.
In each of these groups of huts there is but one
family, with their slaves. Each master is allowed
to keep no more than six legitimate wives, with the
exception of the marabouts, or priests ; and they,
supremely blessed on account of their sanctity,
enjoy the enviable privilege of having as many
wives as their finances will enable them to support.
Some infidels assert that in this they are not truly
orthodox, and overstep the boundary line laid down
by Mahomet in the Koran. However, amongst
these people the first wife is mistress, and enjoys
privileges denied to the others. The women appear
to live in great harmony with each other, undis¬
turbed by any feeling of jealousy, attending to
"their cooking and other domestic duties with ap¬
parent pleasure. Their chief delight is in singing
and dancing to the monotonous sound of the tom¬
tom, which is indeed their principal amusement;
and all appear loyal to the gynarchy, in general
168
MARABOUTS.
modest, and are, moreover, said to be very faithful
to their husbands.
The huts are generally all alike, and very little
distinction is made between that of the master and
the slave, as regards furniture or internal arrange-"
ments ; a wooden sofa, one or two common stools,
and some mats to squat or sleep upon, constitute the
principal articles of accommodation with which
their apartments are supplied. A wood fire is kept
almost continually burning night and day; and
hanging from the roof are calabashes, used as pots
and pans, gris-gris, and little leather bags, purchased-
from the priests, containing a verse from the Koran,
which are considered efficacious in preserving be¬
lievers from evil men and spirits.
At the north point of the island, at Bopn' dar,
or St. Louis* Head, is erected theii* great mosque,
outside the door of which, squatting on the groimd,
may be seen on Fridays, their sabbath, a number
of old or infirm marabouts, who are supported by
the alms they collect. These holy men make a
noise something similar to the cries uttered by the
vendors of vegetables or fruits in the streets: it
consists of a constant repetition of the words,
" Allah muja rabUanah " (God will bless the cha¬
ritable on Friday.) In this manner they pick up*
from the people's charity enough maize, flour, &c.,
for a meal ; they then retire to any square near,
where they call the people together, and recûte
some prayers. They never go into the interior of
CKIMINAL LAW.
169
the mosque without making their ablutions outside;
for the prophet says, " They must be cleansed in
body and soul before entering into his sanctuary ; "
and if water is not to be obtained the Koran
permits sand as a substitute.
These marabouts seldom remain in one spot, but
wander about from place to place, as they say they
are pilgrims and wanderers to and fro throughout
the earth ; but they have their gris-gris to protect
them from all the dangers which they may en-
coimter.
They administer the law to the people, so far as
the latter will submit to its injunctions. Their
decisions, in general, are of a very novel character,
and worthy of note : they do not countenance the
expensive and extensive civil establishments of
police, jails, and other aids to justice prevalent in
civilized countries ; and their sentence upon the
guilty is simply a prohibition to marry—according
to the enormity of the crime—^for two, four, eight,
ten, or even twenty years. If the crime is of a
very serious character, the culprit is doomed to
perpetual celibacy.
One crime, however, above all others, is con¬
sidered by the people as worthy of death—namely,
adultery. They argue thus : " If mutton or cloth,
or any similar article, is stolen, the thief may make
restitution ; but they who sever the marriage tie
can never unite it again ; and, therefore, as the
person cannot restore that which he has stolen, he
170
RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS.
must pay the forfeiture of his life. It is con¬
sidered a sufficient punishment for the adulterous
wife that she is permitted to live to endure her
shame." If an execution for adultery takes place,
the culprit is paraded through the streets, accom¬
panied hy the music of their tom-toms. On such
occasions there is little or no S5nnpathy manifested
by the people, who do not appear to take much
interest in a criminal's exit from life. The mode of
inflicting capital punishment is by decapitation,
and the injured husband is the executioner.
The guilty wife, in the meantime, fastened to a
tree, witnesses the death of her paramour by the
hands of her husband, and continues weeping in
terror and dismay during the awful scene. After
the execution she is released, disrobed of her
connubial attire, and dressed in the common short
calico petticoat usually worn by the slaves : she is
henceforth degraded from the condition of wife to
that of the lowest of her husband's bondwomen.
The people celebrate two festivals, which they
Consider particularly solemn—-Gamon and Tabasqui,
each of which continues for eight days. The
manner in which they celebrate them is rather
strange, and yet simple—namely, by contests re¬
sembling those of the ancient Greeks in the Olym¬
pic games. The competitors, having first greased
their bodies all over, enter the lists, where, in an
arena covered with sand, they encounter their
antagonists in a trial of muscular strength by
EOMANTIC STORY.
171
wrestling. As soon as the successful competitor
succeeds in hurling his antagonist to the dust, he is
immediately hailed as victor by the spectators, with
loud acclamations; and, arm-in-arm with his be¬
trothed, he is conveyed in triumph through the town.
A romantic story is told of M. Duranton, a gentle¬
man engaged by England and France to travel
through Africa. It is reported that he departed
from St. Louis, accompanied by armed slaves, and
with a large quantity of goods ; and that, having
arrived at Timbuctoo, he stopped at the location
of a very wealthy tribe, where he fell in love with
the daughter of the chief. The father, looking
upon the alliance as a very great honour, gladly
accepted the proposal of marriage. The only con¬
dition imposed on the enamoured candidate for the
hand of the fair one w^as that he should, as in the
days of ancient chivalry, enter the lists with any
other candidate, and conquer him, in a friendly
wrestling match. To this our stalwart European
at once consented, and soon carried off the prize,
being victorious in the contest. As his father-in-
law was the paramount chief or sovereign of this
extensive and wealthy tribe, he, as his son-in-law,
now became eligible for election to the throne, pro¬
vided he triumphed in the great national contest
of wrestling with any other claimant to the same
exalted position. In tjiis second encounter also his
prowess was victorious, and, without further oppo¬
sition,. he ascended the throne.
172
HOUSES.
He subsequentiy paid several visits to St. Louis,
although his residence was so far distant. By
making several important conquests from the sur¬
rounding tribes, he extended his dominions, and
increased his wealth. On his death he was interred
in a vast sepulchre, ivhich he built for himself, and
which is, in some respects, like that of the Prophet
at Mecca.
I was informed that individuals of this native
tribe occasionally have their duels, which are
decided, not by pistol and baU, nor by the sword,
but by what has been denominated by some, even in
high life, " the manly art of self-defence," or, in
other words, by a pugilistic encounter. On such
occasions they retire, accompanied by their sponsors,
to some solitary place, where the controversy is
ended by the victory of one of the two disputants.
In the centre of the town of St. Louis the houses
are tolerably good, being built of rough-hewn stone.
Building materials are of a very inferior description.
Their bricks, being manufactured from the mud of
the river, are not very substantial, and are easily
injured by the action of rain and wind. The shell
lime manufactured here is also considered of an
inferior quality, and not sufficiently binding. Stone
is brought from Galam, a distance of 450 miles ;
the timber from America.
The houses have extensive yards attached, in
which cane huts are erected for the residence of the
blac^ slaves. In these enclosures the children rtdi
OCCUPATIONS.
173
about in a state of nudity, while the females are
aU actively engaged in their various avocations,
according to their age and strength, as described in
the account of the north and south points of the
island.
The men, in the meantime, are engaged in fish¬
ing, trading up the river, hunting, cutting wood,
cultivating small patches of garden ground, or in
manufacturing pagnes, or native doth, on the
beach, or somewhere out of doors, but seldom
under a roof. There is little variety in the quality
or pattern of this doth, some specimens being
striped longitudinally, others transversely, while
many are chequered ; the favourite colours are red
and blue. The artisans are called " Griotes." At
one side of the yard stands the master's dwelling,
to which is attached a parterre, which affords a
shady walk, and also serves for the purpose of
keeping flowers. From this terrace you enter that
portion of the house where the family resides ; the
most important apartment of which is a saloon,
which is used both as drawing and dining-room.
The walls are white, beiag formed of stucco, or
plaster of Paris ; in the centre stands an oblong
table ; and three or four rude couches, formed of
wood, and covered with mats of variegated colours,
are ranged along the walls, on which are suspended
on nails Morocco sandals, palm-leaf hats, pipes,
guns, and various other articles. On the sofas the
ladies—of course not Europeans—sit cross-lei^ed,
174
FEMALE COSTUME.
like SO many tailors ; some of them are really
handsome, especially those stolen from the Moorish
encampments on the north of the continent. Their
head-dress consists of several folds of a handkerchief,
which is so arranged as to ^ve them a very
coquettish air, with gold ear-rings of various
patterns. They wear a kind of vest of very fine
muslin, which scarcely veils the breast, with a full
skirt of cloth.
The lower order of females merely wear a
short petticoat of blue calico round their hips, and
some of them indulge in the additional luxury of
having a handkerchief tied round the head. When
they walk out with the children, they generally
fasten them on their hips, like the Hottentot women
of Southern Africa.
At meals the women are obliged to stand behind
their "lords," and attend to them—a practice which
must truly shock the polite and gallant Frenchmen
who witness it. The table is covered with a mat,
as a substitute for a cloth, on which the wife places
the favourite mess af cuscus, together with other
highly-seasoned dishes. All their dishes ;áre very
pungentj from the variety of spices they use. All
eat with their fingers out of the same dish, a custom
which is very revolting to a refined taste. Th^
have very good fruit, as also nice creams, produced
from the cocoa milk, &c., and sweets in great
variety.
A strange custom prevails among this peo|de.
WIVES OF APPOINTMENT.
175
Certain ladies are spoken of as " wives of appoint¬
ment," an expression which a stranger will be
at a loss to know the meaning of. The explana¬
tion is as follows :—widow claims as her
partner whoever succeeds to the situation lately
held by her husband ; she waits patiently until his
arrival, and then informs him that she, "the wife
of his appointment," and her children, if she has
any, have been anxiously waiting for him. There
is seldom any difficulty in amicably arranging such
a delicate matter, the principal one being the ex¬
pensive dress to be provided for the signardes or
ladies.
If a young lady falls in love with a gentleman,
she sends one of her slaves to the highly-favoured
one to inform him that she has been dreaming of
himj and requests to know if there has been
any corresponding communication made to him,
and also to ask the favour of a pair of trousers,
that she- may place them under her pillow, in
order to ascertain the true nature of the case.
Of course the envied individual gallantly complies
with the request. As may be expected, most
pleasing dreams ensue, which each succeeding night
become more delightful, the fair one faithfully issu¬
ing her daily buUetin to her beloved, until at
length she decides on accepting him as her hus¬
band.
When these important diplomatic preliminaries
are fully matured and brought to a successful issue.
176
MARRIAGE CUSTOMS.
the imposing ceremony of marriage commences by
a troop of musicians assembling at the door of the
bridegroom's house. The concert is both instru¬
mental and vocal, but not very harmonious, for
the notes of the principal musical instrument, the
tom-tom, are very discordant, and form a suitable
accompaniment to the unmelodious squalling of the
so-called female singers.
The bride, in the meantime, is prepared with
her band, composed of the same description of per¬
formers. All is now gaiety and bustle at the
bridegroom's house, while the cortège of the bride
is anxiously expected. At length the distant sound
of music strikes upon the ear, and simultaneously
the cry is raised, " Here she comes ! " The proces¬
sion is soon seen in the distance as it wends its way
along, becoming more distinct as it approaches
nearer to Hymen's happy goal. The band heads
the brilliant cortège, followed by a long train of
mulatto and sable ladies.
The bride is supported on either side by her
mother and godmother—
" Grace in her step, Heaven in her eye,
In evOTy gesture dignity and love."
Her first movement on approaching her lord is
to prostrate herself before him in token of sub¬
mission. After this first act of the interesting cere¬
mony comes the marriage-feast, at which the bride
takes her place behind the chair of the bride¬
groom, and with all . humility waits upon him—thüs
6BANDE TEBBE.
177
giving fall proof of her.entire submission to him,
and of her future obedience íq all things.
Then foUows a ball, which is opened by the
bride and bridegroom, the two bands forming the
orchestra sending forth sounds of " confusion
worse confounded." After the happy couple have
tripped round the room on "the light fantastic
toe," the signardes make their presents to the
bride, of various kinds of rich native cloth. Soon
after, the happy pair retire; but the guests con¬
tinue the dance for some time longer.
Next morning the hdde appears in a new cos¬
tume; instead of the gay short petticoat which
leaves the legs visible, she is dressed in a long
flowing robe, which trails on the ground, and
which she continues to wear for twelve days in
succession.
Occasionally Europeans prefer slave maidens to
signardes, as their wives; but girls belonging to
what may be termed the first class of slaves, if
they obtain their freedom, notwithstanding all
their professions of love and gratitude, take the
earliest opportunity of eloping to their former and
first love, from whom they had been separated on
being enslaved.
In Grande Terre, or mainland, there is little or
ño vegetation ; but a bountiful Providence has in
some measure made up the deficiency, by pro¬
viding tiie island with a large supply of rabbits,
VOL. I. N
178
THE EABLY SETTLERS.
partridges, giiinea-hens, quails, and other useful
animals. There is also a number of gazelles, and
birds of beautiful plumage.
The coast is supplied with an abundance of ex¬
cellent fish, particularly at what is called the
village of Guet N'Dark (St. Louis' cattle stable),
where there is a narrow stripe of sandy soil, be¬
tween the Senegal river and the sea, to which
people resort to hunt and bathe. Here fish are
said to be in such quantities that they are taken in
baskets, which are fastened to a rope and dipped
into the water. Indeed, they are often found in
such shoals, that by merely wading into the water
they may be taken with the hand. They are said
to be a great annoyance to persons who go there
to bathe.
Respecting the early settlers ridiculous fables
were promulgated by Père Labat, and the seaman,
Vülaut-belle-fond ; but these were invented 2 70
years after the Portuguese historian. Gomes Ennes
d'Azurara, who was contemporary with the disco¬
very of Canagá, or Senegal, and who was honoured.
Ö
with the confidence of the celebrated Infante D.
Henrique, under whose encouragement and enter¬
prising spirit so many discoveries were made by
the Portuguese ; and therefore we must believe the
assertion made by this writer, in his " Chronicle of
the Discovery arid Conquest of Guinea," that tiie Por¬
tuguese were the first who discovered the entrance
of the Senegal, or Canagá. The claim of the Nor-
MOUTH OF THE SENEGAL.
179
man pirates of the fourteenth century to the dis¬
covery, is supported by an allegation that Norman
words may he traced in the language of the
natives, and that an inscription has been disco¬
vered, as follows—"MCCC'III Now, I defy the
quickest ear to discover anything resembling the
Norman in the language of the Mandingoes, Ja-
loffes, Cassangas, Banhans, or Feloupes; but he
whose eye is so clear as satisfactorily to decipher
the inscription above mentioned, may possess an
ear capable of defining sounds such as those re¬
ferred to. So much for national enthusiasm and
fanaticism.
The mouth of the Senegal was discovered in
1446, by the Portuguese. A fleet of fourteen
carvels, well furnished with stores and arms, pro¬
ceeded in that year from Lagos, in Algarves, under
the command of the Almoxarife (ofiâcer of cus¬
toms), Lancastre, accompanied by his father-in-law,
Sueiro da Costa, and the following knights of dis¬
tinction : Alvaro de Freitas, Gomes Fires, Rodrigo
Eannes de Travassos, and the famous Gil Eannes,
who had broken up the encampment at Cape
Bojador. This fleet, ; by order of the Infante D.
Heinrique, sailed from Lagos on the 10th of August,
on a voyage of discovery to the coast of Guinea.
At the same time, and for the same object, twelve
more carvels^ or ships, were despatched from Lisbon
and Madeira. Among the adventurers were Diniz
Diaz, who had before been to the Cape Verdes ;
180 VOYAGES FOE ITS DISCOVERY.
Nunc da Cunha, celebrated for bis exploits in the
island of Arginm; and Alvaro Fernandez, who
subsequently discovered Sierra Leone, in 1447, in a
carvel of the famous Joao Gonçalves Zarco, captain
of the island of Mhdeira. And here I would beg
leave to observe that no mention is made in this
expedition of Cadamosto, nor of Antoniolto, as
Mice Antonio de Nolle is sometimes called; the
reason for this being that these celebrated naviga¬
tors had not yet arrived in Portugal, notwithstand¬
ing all that is erroneously stated to the contrary by
some authors.
These carvels, having been divided into several
squadrons; were despatched under various com¬
manders. Six of them were placed under the
respective commands of Langarote, Alvaro, de
Freitas, Rodiigo Eannes de TVavassos, Esquire of
the Regent ; Lourengo; Dias, esquire of the famous
Infante D. Henrique ; Vicente Dias, merchant of
Lagos; and Gomes Fires,>inaster of the King's
yacht. By ádvice of the last-mentioned, who ap¬
pears -to have had the principal command of the .
squadron, as commodore, it was mutually agreed
that they should remain in convoy until they
reached'the Alncah coast, or imtil'they should dis¬
cover the entrance of the Canagá or Sensal, which
at the timCiWas considered by them; as also bj^ thé
hÍ8tcHuán> Azàiraràj to be one of the mouths of the
Nile, so defei^ve wás the knowledge of xOirect
comography at the . time. Sooh afterwards
ALVARO FERNANDEZ.
181
discovered the object of their search, its situation
being indicated by the colour and taste of the
water, where it disembogues iato the sea. Casting
anchor, therefore, near to what they considered the
bar formed by the Senegal, Vicente Dias and
Estevào Affonsoj Esquire, of Lagos, with six men,
proceeded in a boat towards the shore. They
effected a landing, and proceeded towards a small
hut, where they discovered a boy and girl, together
with a short square target, made of elephant's ear.
They captured the children ; but the father, m the
meantime arriving, flew to their rescue. In the
scuffle which ensued, Vicente Dias was wounded
by a zaguay ; but they succeeded in securing their
capture, and the boy and girl were afterwards
brought to Portugal.
Havmg thus briefly noticed the early discovery
of the Senegal by the Portuguese navigators, prior
to aU others who lay claim to the honour, I may
state that some authors have asserted thut, after the
separation ^ of the fleet, young Alvaro Fernandez
arrived with his carvel at the mouth of the Senegal,
before Gomes Pires discovered it ; and that, having
ordered Ms men to fin two casks with fresh water
(one of wMch they brought to Lisbon), he imme¬
diately set sail again, without anchoring or stopping
to examine the locality. It is also stated that, after
passing Cape Verde, he landed on an island,f which
appears to have been Gorée, at present one of the
French .settlements, wh^e the adventurers found
182
NUNO TKISTAO.
some goatSj and where they engraved on one of
the "trees the armorial bearings of the Infante D.
Henrique—an account which is corroborated by the
fact that Gomes Pires and Lançarote, when they
landed on the island, discovered the tree so orna¬
mented. Before their return home they sailed
further down the coast of Africa, and arrived at a
cape, to which, observing on it a large number of
palm-trees stripped of all foliage, they gave the
name of " Cabo dos Mastos," or Cape of Masts.
Having gone on shore, they failed in making any
capture of the inhabitants, and were therefore
obliged to leave without obtaining any information.
It further appears that Nuno Tristao, a captain
in command of one of the carvels belonging to the
fleet, having been separated from the rest, sailed
down the coast for about 180 miles below Cape
Verde, discovering that portion of the Continent
which is at present known as " Portuguese Guinea."
He at length arrived at a river, to which he gave
his own name, Rio de Nuno, where he and twenty
of his men, having landed, were beset by natives,
who attacked them in a most ferocious manner, dis¬
charging at them poisoned arrows, by which fatal
missiles he and eighteen of his companions met
with a miserable death; two only succeeded in
effecting their escape and reaching the vessel, both
severely wounded. There now remained of the
crew only five persons, of whom three were boys,
and one a slave ; but they succeeded in navigating
THE NEGROES OF THE COAST. 183
the ship back to Portugal, under the command of
Ayres Tinoco, groom of the bedchamber of the
Infante, who afterwards assisted to colonize the
islands of Santiago and Fogo.
Since 1447, the negroes of this coast have been
gradually more and more civilized, and have
become reconciled to their Portuguese rulers. This
improvement commenced at an early period ; for
Azurara observes that, " latterly, they (the Por¬
tuguese) were enabled to manage matters better
than formerly, not being obliged at the present to
use so much compulsion, as persons were becoming
better acquainted with the nature of the various
implements in use."
It appears that this improvement in the .know¬
ledge of agriculture and commerce was attempted
m 1448, when King D. Affonso V. sent an embassy
to Budumel, kmg of Cape Verde, which unfortu¬
nately was obliged to return without accomplishiug
its object, the ship's boat having been dashed to
pieces on the beach by the violence of the surf.
On this occasion a Danish nobleman named
Vallarte, or Bailarte, and two of the crew, were
either murdered or made prisoners ; another of the
crew, who had been taken soon afterwards, was
fortunate enough to escape, by swimming to the
vessel.
Fernando Affonso, not having another boat by
which communication might be maiutained with
the land, was obliged to return to Lisbon ; and
Î84
CADAM0STCL
none of the canoes of the natives came off to the
ship after the unfortunate event above referred to.
It appears, however, that negodations between
the Europeans and natives were still continued; for
it is recorded that, in 1455, Luigi Cadamosto foimd
on his arrival there a trade established with the
Portuguese; and was moreover informed that, three
years before, three carvels belongmg to the Infante
had entered the river, the crews of which had
cultivated fiiendship with the natives, and had also
established amicable relations with Budumel, the
sable king, who informed Cadamosto that he had
been made acquainted with the wishes and designs
of the Portuguese Infante.
I would here again remark that another proof
that Cadamosto did not accompany those carveb
which composed the fleet of 1446, may be deduced
from the fact that no mention is made by him of
the six carvels of Langarote and Gomes Pires, which
neither entered the Senegal nor had any intercourse
with the inhabitants. The expeditions to whi<di
Cadamosto refers were trading expeditions, which
went out in 1450, and which were so successful
that from that year trade regularly iucrcjased, and
ships continued to call at that part of the coast.
The error appears to arise from the fact, that
Cadamosto, writing commercially, dates th^ dis¬
covery of the Senegal from the period when Portu¬
guese ships began to trade there. He also fell into
the same e^or respecting Cape Verde, of the dis-
PORTUGUESE TRADE.
185
coyery of which by the Portuguese he makes no
mention, but speaks only of the communication
with the islands, which began one year before his
arrival, and consequently four years after the estab¬
lishment of the first friendly intercourse by the
Portuguese with the negroes at the mouth of the
Senegal, when Cape Verde was also discovered some
months before the mouth of the Senegal had been
found.
This, therefore, is the only legitimate interpreta¬
tion that can be attached to the historical part of
chapters fourteen and twenty-four of the first voy¬
age of Cadamosto.
Respecting trade, we would observe that it con¬
tinued to increase, even after the death of the
Infante D. Henrique, which took place in 1460.
In 1462 all the commerce, extending from the
Senegal to the Mitombo, in Sierra Leone, was ex¬
clusively in the hands of the inhabitants of Santiago.
This monopoly was legally conferred on them in
1446, with certain conditions annexed; and also
confirmed by letters patent, dated February 8th,
1472.
The Portuguese trade continued to flourish, and
became very considerable, affording to the mercan¬
tile community large profits. When, in 1488,
Bemohim, the Prince of Jaloffe, came to Portugal
to beg assistance from King D. Joao II. against a
usurper of his throne, ,the King caused him to be
baptized at Setubal, or St. Ubes, with the name of
186
THE PEINGE OF JALOFFE.
D. Joäo, and received homage fi*om him as a
feudatory sovereign to the crown of Portugal He
was afterwards sent home with a convoy of twenty
carvels, commanded by Pero Vaz da Cunha, who
received instructions to restore to him the dominions
of which he had been dispossessed by a usurper—
to erect, without delay, a fortress at the entrance
of the river—and also to build a church, the
materials for which he carried with him from
Portugal. The expedition was also accompanied
by missionaries for the propagation of the faith—
an object always attended to by I. M. F. Majesties
in all their glorious discoveries and conquests. The
fortress alluded to was no doubt intended to secure
to the Portuguese nation the wealth and commerce
of those rich regions. But this design was com¬
pletely frustrated by the cruel and impolitic con¬
duct of the captain, Pero Vaz, who, to the amaze¬
ment of the whole expedition, and under the
pretext that he suspected a conspiracy, made an
attack on the black prince on board of his ship,
and stabbed him with a poniard. Immediately,
after this unaccountable act he returned to Portu¬
gal, leaving the inhabitants in revolt against the
Portuguese. The church and fortress which he had
orders to erect were left unfinished; but Joâo de
Barros says "that in his time part of the wall
could still be seen." In consequence of this revdit^
the inhabitants of Santiago suffered much, by
losing a lucrative trade to the river SenegaL In
TRADE WITH BUDÜMEL.
187
the sixteenth century, however, they carried on an
immense trade with the ports of the kingdom of
Budumel, more particularly with those on the creek
of Besiguiche, whither they conveyed large ship¬
ments of horses, and, in time of scarcity or famine,
great quantities of maize, beans, &c., receiving in
return hides, wax, gum, ivory, amber, and gold.
From thence the Portuguese extended their trade
to the River Gambia, now an English colony ; St.
Domingo, Cadamansa, Geba, and Rio Grande,
which at the present day constitute what is denomi¬
nated " Portuguese Guinea," and respecting which
I would here observe that the first station (but not
port) fi'equented by the Portuguese in the kingdom
of Budumel, was what is called " The Palm of
Budumel," situated on the north coast of Cape
Verde, and surrounded by fords. The island of
Palma, as it is called by Azurara—or Yof, as
Roussin designates it—is immediately opposite
to it.
The next place to which the Portuguese resorted
for purposes of trade was the creek of Besiguiche,
situated to the east of Cape Manoel : it was shel¬
tered by the island of Goree. The port was then
called " Port Gaspar," as stated by Coelho in 1669;
but it is at present termed by the French "Darcar,"
although in the map prepared by Roussin the
Portuguese name of Rio Fresco is still given to a
branch of a river which there enters the sea,
and from which ships procure their supplies of
fresh water.
188 DEGENERACY OF PORTUGUESE SETTLERS.
The other ports of the kingdom of Budmnel, where
the Portuguese were wont to trade, were Recife—
the ridge of rocks near to the Cabo dos Mastos—
Portudalle, Sereno, Joalla, and Porto Palmeirinho,
or Little Palm-tree, which borders on the kingdom
of Bonçalo.
The Portuguese frequenting the various rivers
before mentioned, mixing with the inhabitants,
became familiar with their language and customs,
and by degrees made their way into the interior.
They gave their new acquaintances the name of
Lanzados, in allusion to their skill in throwing the
spear—Lanqar in Portuguese meaning to throw.
In the course of time this friendship was more
closely cemented by intermarriages, from which
sprang a race which ultimately supplied all the
different European nations with agents, through
whose intervention the lading and unlading of
merchant ships was much facilitated; unfortunately,
however, as in the case of the Israelites in Canaan,
this intercourse with the natives tended much to
lower the standard of morality, and led the Portm.
guese even to forget the God of their fathers, and
to become in an awful degree assimilated to the
heathens who surrounded them. The condition to
which they had sunk is very graphically described
by Father Guerreiro. Their patriotism seemed to
be extinct, their primary object being to accumulate
wealth ; and this mercenary spirit was carried so
far that they were ready to hire tiiemselves to
SMUGGLING.
189
whomsoever would bid the highest for their services.
To such an extent did this degraded spirit prevail,
that when, in the middle of the sixteenth century,
the pirates and corsairs of France—^and afterwards
those of England—^visited these shores, they found
willing auxiliaries in the Lançados.
About this time, also, smuggling, the inevitable
consequence of all attempts to restrain freedom of
trade, became rife ; and on the usurpation of Philip
of Spain, had increased to such an extent, that
the iohahitants of Santiago by degrees abandoned
the various ports of Senegambia to the increased
foreign trade ; and from hencefortji directed thei
speculations to the south of Cape St. Maria, on thi^
Gambia. Almada, in his " Brief Treatise on the
Rivers of Guinea,^" written in 1594, makes great
complaints of the miseries consequent on the state
of things above described; and Coelho, in his
" Description of the Coast of Guinea, from Cape
Verde to Sierra Leone," written in 1669, when the
French were in possession of one fortress on the
Senegal, and the Flemish of two on the islet of
Besiguiche (which had received the name of Gorée
in 1617), as also of a factory at Port Graspar, or
Darcar, states that at that early period they were
^customed to send ships of 100 tons burden to the
ports of Recife, Portudalle, and JoaUa, which
received cargoes of hides obtained from the Portu¬
guese. Again, when speaking of the Gambia, he
" This river is more navigable than all those
190
GORES.
met with on the coast of Guinea. It was from
here that the English, Flemish, French* Curlandish,
and CastUlians continued to cany on the greatest
traffic of all the ports on the coast of Guioea^ Those
who afford them the greatest assistance are Portu¬
guese descendants of the Lançados in Portudalle,
Portendic, and the river Bittan, or Vintan, which
enters the Gambia three miles above Fort St
James, where is a village called Herejes, or Jereja
(Heretics), through which comes the extensive
trade in gold, ivory, wax, hides, &c."
Thus the Portuguese by degrees lost a great
portion of their early discoveries and conquests,
from Cape St. Maria to Cape Verga.
The French settlement of Gorée was originally
founded by the Dutch in 1617, who ceded it to the
English in 1676 : it was, however, taken possession
of by the French in 1677. The English again
conquered it in 1809 ; but it was finally restored
to the French in 1814.
In 1828, the French, regardless of every treaty,
and in violation of all national rights possessed l?y
the Portuguese, took possession of the island of
Mosquitos—^by them called Ito—which forms the
north point of the bar of the river Casamansa, and
there formed a new settlement. Not satisfied with
these acquisitions, they established a factory, in
1836, called Selius, higher up the river.
The above now compose the principal French
settlements on the western coast. In addition
FRENCH SETTLEMENTS.
191
to these, however, they possess several settle-
ments of minor importance. Such are Podor,
Fort Charles, Dagana, 135 miles from the mouth
of the Senegal, and some other smaller establish¬
ments, which they visit once a-year. Galam, or
Baguel, distant about 450 miles from the mouth
of the Senegal, is the chief mart for slaves ; and
notwithstanding that of late they have facilitated
their intercourse with these distant settlements by
the use of steamers, they have generally to record
the loss of four or five of their Europeán crews
every year.
The population of the French settlements on
the coast is calculated at 19,600, of which 10,000
are at St. Louis, and 7,000 at Corée. The in¬
habitants of French birth or extraction do not
number more than 450, and they are under the
government of a " Capitaine de Vaisseau," or
Captain in the Navy.
I would fain now give more information re¬
specting these interesting and important settle¬
ments, but I must continue my voyage along
the African coast to Portuguese Guinea.
However, before ending this chapter, I will add
that the chief articles bf export from the French
settlements are gum arable, ground nuts, and
hides ; ivory and gold-dust are also obtained from
the interior.
192
CHAPTER V.
Senegambia, or Fortogaeee Guinea—The Riyer Casamanca—^The
Sacalates—^The Natives of Tambarem—Their Falavras or Fublic
Assemblies—The Felupes and Banhuns—^Months of the St. Do¬
mingo—Character of the Biafi^mes—The Mandingoes—Ferodly of
the Bijajoz—Costume of the Inhabitants of the various Manda—
Their Religious Worship—The Interior of Fortuguese Guinea—
Fortuguese Fortified Settlements—^History of the Discovery and
Settlement of this Territory—^The Territory of Sam Sam—King¬
dom of the Fapeis—Settlement of Farim—Aachen and its Trade
Establishments on the Bio Grande—Islands of Jatta—The Appear¬
ance, Froductions, and Trade of these Islands—The Annna.! Expor¬
tation from Aachen and Zinguicho.
The territory wHch the govemmentship of Sene-
gambia, or Portuguese Guinea, comprebmds ex¬
tends from Cape Santa Maria at the Gambia^ in lat.
13® 10' N., to Cape Verga, in lat. 10° 20' N.
The islands formed by the various brandbes
of the river are so numerous, that it would not
be inappropriate to designate them, " The Archi¬
pelago."
NATIVE TRIBES.
193
The time at which we arrived there is considered
the most unhealthy, being the season when car-
ndradas^ or fevers, are most prevalent ; and, what
is not usual at this period, it rained incessantly
during my stay—in consequence of which I had not
the best opportunity of visiting the neighbourhood
and improving my knowledge of the place. Not¬
withstanding, I will endeavour to give a brief
account of these rich, but sickly, regions.
On entering the river Casamança, from the
north, we find ourselves among -the warlike and
thieving tribe denominated Sacalates ; and on the
border of the river to «the left are the Jabundos.
On the opposite side are the Banhuns, of Zinguechor,
a place where the Portuguese have a Presidio, or
fortified settlement, Bichangor and Guinquim ; to
the east of which again lies the extensive kingdom
of Casamança, which gives its name to the river.
To the south of the Banhuns are situated the'
Felupes, who occupy the land extending to the
mouth of the St. Domingos river. To the west of
the Banhuns and Felupes, on the coast, and near to
Cape Roxo, reside the Arriatas, the ferocious natives
of Jambarem, who have no fishing-boats, or other
means of subsistence ; but who live by predatory
incursions, and who regard neither fife nor pro¬
perty, and are especially hostile to the English, to
whom, when shipwrecked on their coast, they show
no mercy.
The origin of this vindictive spirit may be traced
VOL. I. o
194
VINDICTIVE SPEBIT.
to a circmnstance of wHcli a tradition that-prevails
amongst them stiU preserves the memoi^. In the
seventeenth century, it is stated th^ the Arriates
were in a position simitar to that of their neigh¬
bours—^namely, fishermen and pilots of the coast ;
and also that they possessed numerous canoes. An
English slaver, however, haviug arrived, at Cape
Roxo, the captain is reported to have enticed the
natives on board by presents of brandy, &c. ; and
when he had succeeded in securing a large number,
he suddenly caused them to be thrown into the
hold, and, immediately setting sail, was never more
seen or heard of. This, they say, caused them at
once to break up their canoes ; and, vowing they
would never again venture upon the sea, they ex¬
pressed their* determination to satisfy their ven¬
geance by killing every Englishman who, by any ,
mischance, might fall into their power.
This tradition in some measure accounts for their
cruel treatment (in 1830) of the shipwrecked crew
of an English barque; and also for the tragical
end, in 1833, of the commander, officers, and crew,
of an English sloop which had landed on their
coast to take some observations. '■
With regard to thé Portuguese, they seldom kill
any of that nation, but merely keep them* in dose
captivity, until restored to liberty by the payment
of a large ransom. Such was the case with the
Bishop of Cape Yerde, Dom Fr. Joâo de Faro, and
suite, when shipwrecked at Cape Roxo, in his
visitation of Guinea.
FELUPES, BANHtJES,» AND CASSANGAS. 195
The people of Jambarem are proverbialljr the
most ferocioTis of all the ^Surröimding tribes, hold¬
ing nó intercQiime with the Portuguese. It is (juite
different with the neighbouring tribes, the Felupes,
Banhuns, and Cassangas, who speak almost the
same language, and who come almost every day to
tFáde with the Portuguese, both at Cachen and
Zinquechor ; the Portuguese also entering their
countries with the greatest confidence, for the pur¬
pose of tt^aiísacring commercial affairs.
These blacks—and they are the blackest of
blgícks-^áre a' very brnve^and warlike people. They
are in général symmetrical, robu^ and agile. The
parents,'indeed, destroy all children who are born
deformed, under the impression that, if permitted
to live, they would necessarily become sorcerers.
Their coiintenances are usually interesting; their
build in some degree resembles tbát of Europeans ;
and they have not the flat noses and thick hps of
the thori^al negroes south of the equator. They
áppéar to bê affable, lively, sincere, and Meudly
towards the whitO people, to whom they manifest
the Itiaost liberal hospitality when visiting their
dwellings, at the same time shewing them the
greatest respect; but if you would secure their
étííífidence, you must prove to them by your
deinéanoür that yoú are truly sincere, as they are
naturally Suspicious, and, when' once offended, are
not easily reconciled. They appear to have a great
talent for imitating the usages of other nations,
o 2
196
MALE COSTUME.
especially of the whites. They are very free in
asking for anything which strikes their fancy, and
yet »can take a refusal with a very good grace, and
are easily satisfied. They are industrious in the
cultivation of their rice plantations, and assist each
other when required.
They marry very early. The only article of dress
worn by the unmarried men is an apron, which is
usually ornamented with yellow buttons, or strings
of beads, with pieces of coral, amber, or copper ;
they also decorate their arms and legs with manilles
—that is, bracelets or rmgs of copper, cut and pre¬
pared by their native smiths—for by this name
they designate the artisans who manufacture such
articles. In ornamenting the head, considerable
care and ingenuity are shown even by the poorest
of them, the hair being cut into a variety of
figures, from which are suspended as many bits
of brass as they can obtain. The more wealthy
suffer their hair to grow, and, plaiting it with sail-
thread and strings of cowries, form a tiara, in
shape resembling a small cask. Some of the,
wealthier and more civilized, however, are be¬
ginning to wear the Mandingo check drawers:
The married men cut their hair in different
figures, and cover it with a red cap. Their usual
dress is a blue cloth Mandingo, which they wrap
round the waist, letting it fall down to the knees.
Another piece of cloth of the same texture, but
white, is folded across their shoulders and brents.
FEMALE COSTUME.
197
A string of beads around the neck, a tbin manille
on each arm, and a copper ring on tbe finger, com¬
pose the omaimental part of their costume.
Those who become rich by traffic with the
white people dress very gaijy on festival days.
On these occasions they wear the ronco^ a long
dress of printed calico, or of zuarte^ a Portuguese-
Indian blue cotton cloth, ornamented with scarlet
flannel, and hats bound with scarlet.
The females, up to the age of seven or eight
years, are suffered to remain in a state of complete
nudity, their only adornments being strings of
beads. After this age they wear an apron, which
they retain until they are married, when they
wrap the body, from the waist downward, in fine
cloth, brought from Cape Verde. This garment,
denoting a state of matrimony, is worn by the
inhabitants aU along the coast. It is bound with fine
flannel or scarlet cloth, which is sometimes so divided
as to form a fringe, and is ornamented with cowries
fastened in the form of stars. When the young
women become mothers, they cover the bosom with
a plain black cloth. The wealth of the husband is
usually calculated by the quantity of beads which
adorn the bosom of his wife, and by the number of
manilles which she wears on her arms. The latter
are sometimes so numerous that they prove cum¬
bersome and painful, especially when preparing the
rice, which is the principal occupation of the
females. It is also usual to pierce the cartilage of
198
CHOICE OF A WIFE.
the ear in different places, all round, into which
they put beads studded with small pins.
When male or female are about to be married,
they call in the smith, who, with a sharp instru¬
ment, as they have no files, prepares and sharpen^
their teeth,
Polygamy is practised amongst them, and they
change their wives as frequently as they please.
Their first wife must be a hajud, or maiden. After
the young man has fixed his choice on a girl, he
asks her father's consent. If this is obtained, he
sends to his intended a-copper ring, and then
' ' *
despatches a formal message to. the father's.rela¬
tions and friends, informing them that h§ is, goi^
to huild a house* They all assemble together, and
render him every assistance, the father of the
maidep supplying materials and paying all ex-
V»
penses. When the house is finished, and ready to
be occupied, the yQHUg nian—his means admit of
it—sends a present of minced pork to his father-in-
law elect, who immediately calls together the
friends and relations. When assembled, ) he ipforms
them of the/marriage of his daughter, and divides
with them the present just- received.
- On the auspicious morning, the bridegrooîift
makes an offering to each of the XineSy as the
place of their divinities is called, of the locality,, of
a bottle of palm wine for libations ; and having
spent the day in festivity with the relations^ w;ith
the never-failing accompaniment of the noisy
MABBIAGE CEBEMONY.
199
hatíquC', the bridegroom, accompanied by the bride
and her friends, all proceed, by night, to the magic
den of the Jambacoz, the priest or sorcerer, to
whom they offer a fowl, in the hope that it may
propitiate him so far that he will deign to receive
and bless a thin iron manüle, which is to be worn
on the pulse of the right hand. After the reception
of these maniUes, the marriage ceremony is com¬
plete, and the husband takes his wife to his new
home. He is, however, at liberty to repudiate her
next day, if he chooses ; and also to take another,
who has been in like manner divorced.
The bride receives a present of a fine black
ornamented doth, adorned with beads ; and, from
her father, manilles, which are of such a quality as
his means enable him to bestow. In case of his
daughter becomiug enceinte^ he makes her a present
of a black cloth to cover her bosom.
The youug husband receives from his father his
portion of property in land and cattle.
A fiineral, or, as they term it, "a lam^ting," is
an occasion of great solemnity amongst these
people. As soon as death ensues, a shot is fired
from a musket^ opposite the door of the deceased,
to announce the melancholy fact.
They then proceed to erect opposite the door
a spedes of platform, formed of slicks crossed and
fastened together. On this tlâèey place the corpse,
shrouded in its best ^clothes, generally what they
term their needle doths, prQcm*ed from Cape Verde,
200
FUNERAL CUSTOMS.
and which, in most instances, are purchased during
the lifetime of the deceased, and laid by for this
very purpose.
If the deceased was a young man in the prime of
life, the people of the village daub themselves with
slime, and the musket-shots are repeated frequently
during the night. If a woman, or an old man,
none but the nearest relatives mourn for the dead.
Twenty-four hours after the death of the indivi¬
dual the grave is prepared at the place where
deceased, while living, had expressed a desire to
be interred, and even in his late dwelling, if he had
so ordered it ; but not in any cultivated grounds,
as this is opposed to their universally-received tra-.
ditions.
These graves are dug in a very peculiar man¬
ner, well calculated to secure the health of the
public : first, there is a round hole sunk, similar to
a well, about ten feet deep, and about fifteen in
diameter. At one side a small chamber, or niche,
is opened, and in this the corpse, having been
carried to the burial-place on a bier, and lowered
down into the grave, is placed in an upright posi¬
tion. The niche is then closed with boards, the
grave is filled up, and the ground well beaten
down. The company who attend the funeral
afterwards retire to the late residence of the
deceased, where a feast is prepared ; a bullock is
slaughtered in honour of the occasion, and a large
supply of pahn wine is dispensed. The funeral
PALAVRAS.
201
obsequies generally end by a wrestling match
among the young men.
I would here remark that, when the body is
being conveyed to the grave, one of the relations
meets it on the way, and inquires, in a loud voice,
" if any person has practised any sorceries on the
deceased, or by any means caused him any evil ? "
They say that if the bier inclines backwards when
the question is proposed, the answer is in the nega¬
tive ; but if forward, it is in the affirmative.
Among the Banhuns and Cassangas it is usually
the Jambacoz who thus interrogates the persons
composing the funeral procession.
The property of the deceased passes to the male
heirs ; but the nephews and sons of a sister are
always excluded.
The usual sign of mourning is the tying of sail-
thread round the arms, legs, and necks, instead of
nranilles or beads ; and during a certain number of
days the women continue to make lamentation at
the late residence of the deceased.
In each village there resides a governor, or one
I
who may be more appropriately termed a judge,
who, in concert with the elders of the village, dis¬
charges all business, whether civil, political, or crimi¬
nal. The great palavras, or public assemblies, are
convened under the shade of a large tree; the
pleadings, pro and corij are delivered with great
freedom of speech. The sentences are verbal, and
the proceedings summary.
202
THE KING'S soldiers.
The only advantage accruing to the king, go¬
vernor, or chief captain, is the free occupation of a
small field, and the presents given by foreigners
who come to trade. No traffic is permitted in the
market until his majesty personally comes to open
it, and to adjust the standard of prices.
For the due execution of all sentences pronounced
by the popular assembly there is a certain body of
men, denominated the "king'ssoldiers." Their func¬
tions are hereditary, descending from uncles to
nephews ; the only pay or emolument they derive
is their portion of the confiscated property belong¬
ing to the culprits. These soldiers cultivate the
royal field, whilst the king and his sons cultivate
their own garden. There are two officers, whose
duty it is to summon the different members of the
national assembly.
In the king's house, or in that of one of the
Jambacozes, is kept the "balafao," a tympan, or
drum, made of hollow wood, with an opening at
one side two inches broad, and ten or twelve inches
long. Upon this they strike with two drumsticks ;*
the different sounds emitted conveying certain
signals, the import of which is known to all the
neighbours. During the night intelligence is thus
communicated from village to village ; and, in con¬
sequence of their contiguity to each other, informa¬
tion is very rapidly conveyed.
The king is kept in ignoraiice both of the time
and the cause of the wars upon which they ent^.
CRIME, ARD PUNISHMENT.
203
It is for this reason that their war-councils are
always held in secret, and presided over by the
person who has been selected to act as their gene¬
ral or commander, whom they designate "the
brave." All the young men are considered as
warriors.
The Felupes give no countenance to slavery ; they
carry on no traffic in human flesh. Not so their
neighbours, whose principal trade lies in sellmg
their fellows—a circumstance which, no doubt,
accounts for the very palpable diflerence to be
observed in the morality of the two tribes.
Amongst the Felupes murder and sorceiy are
punished by the forfeiture of their property, the
demolition of their houses, and perpetual banish¬
ment from the home of their fathers. For personal
injury, and for adultery, the punishment awarded
is compensation by fine. On the other hand, the
Cassangas, the Banhuns, and aU the other neigh¬
bouring tribes and nations, punish all crimes by
perpetual banishment. In such cases they consider
it more advantageous to dispose of their convicts
by selling them to strangers than to bear the
burthen of their support.* Thus they reap a rich
harvest themselves, and, at the same time, encou¬
rage that detestable traffic, the slave-trade.. To
such an extent, indeed, does their cupidity lead
them, that they outrage all the laws of justice and
humanity. When any person < comes under the
lash of their, sanguinary laws, he is not only ex-
204
INJUSTICE AND IGNORANCE.
posed to punishment himself, but his whole family
is involved in ruin along with him. In order to
increase their exchequer, the infamous Jambacozes
plot with their chief captains, or kings, to devise
capital offences. Among these is reckoned sorcery
—a charge which it is very easy to make against
anyone, as the mere accident of fallmg from a palm-
tree is considered to be an infallible proof of guilt.
Again, when their chiefs wish to rid themselves
(instanter) of any person, they compel him to swear
by the red water, which he must also drink;
and, being strongly drugged, it of course causes
instant death. This is considered a positive proof
of guilt ; and, in obedience to the law, the whole of
the accused's family are sold into captivity.
It is to be hoped that the growing interest
which is taken by civilized Europe in general, and
by Portugal and England in particular, in the
amelioration of the benighted and degraded
aborigines of Western Africa, wiU in some degree
lessen the inhuman cruelties practised by the
strong upon the weak ; and with this hope, we bid
God speed to all whose philanthropy induces them
to unite for such a Godlike purpose.
The people of these regions are in general sunk
in the most degrading ignorance of Nature and of
Nature's God. As a proof of this, their New
Year's Day is a day of general festivity, but it is
altered according to the good pleasure of their gran¬
dees, provided it is always celebrated at the time of
THE PAPEIS OR BURAMOS.
205
new moon during the month of November. Their
week consists of six days, five of which are
devoted to labour, and the sixth (which is called
fiei^ holiday) to drinking, dancing to the sound of
the batuque, wrestling, and sleeping.
On the right hank, and near the entrance of
the river St. Domingo (called by some Farim)
the tribes of the Felupes reside ; and, a little
higher up, is the territory inhabited by the Ban-
huns. Here commences the village of St. Domin¬
go, which terminates in the Sarah, next to which
is the country of Cassangas.
On the left bank of the river is situated the
Portuguese fortified town of Cachen, which is in¬
habited by the Papéis or Buramos, an insolent,
rapacious, and treacherous race ; persons coming
into contact with them must be constantly on their
guard against a surprise, as they are so wily that,
if particular watchfulness is not exercised, they
wiU, on the most trifling pretext, seize and plunder
the unwary. They clothe themselves in the same
manner as the people of the north, a tanned
skin, purchased from the Mandingoes, being worn
fastened round the waist. They assume a grave
aspect, and are always armed with muskets, which
they are ever ready to use on the smallest provoca¬
tion ; on some occasions they march gravely into
Cachen for plunder, and, when opposed, fire on the
inhabitants in the streets, generally killing some.
They then take to flight, and find refuge in the
206
SAVAGE TBIBSS.
surrounding forests of Chiuo, Casanda, Matta de
Putama. To the south of this matta or forest, on
the sea-board, is a small beach surrounded with
rocks, where the river Tatta enters the sea, and
where are located the Felupes do Botte, a ferodous
race, who exist by predatory incursions on their
neighbours, the Cachens, whose boats they attack
while passing near their coast.
Their dress is something similar to that of the
Papéis, but they let their hmr grow very long,
and plait or coU thread round it, and, allowing it
to fall in a fringe over the face, a most hideous
and revolting appearance is thus imparted to
them.
The Rio Jatta, as well as the Rio das Anchoras
and the Empernal, are all mouths of the river St.
Domingo; the Jatta is to the south of the island
of Jatta, from which it takes its name. The
islands of Bussis and Bissao are inhabited by the
Papéis ; and to the north by the Balantas and Ban-
hames, who differ little from the Papéis, unless it
be that the latter are more notorious thieves than *
even the former. On the whole, these tribes are
considered very degraded and savage, and they
are of a more warlike disposition than those to the
north of the St. Domingo. Even amongst each
other they engage in frequent wars ; and notwith¬
standing their great similarity to the Bijagoz, they
often unite their forces against them.
The chiefs or kings amongst the Papéis receive
MANDIGOES.
207
tribute of cattle, and also fees at marriages and
deaths ; consequently they are more wealthy than
their neighbours.
Southwards of the Balantas are the Biaffares,
who occupy a large territory between the two
mouths of the Eio Grande, denominated Rio de
Geba, near Bissao, and Rio de Guinala, which
enters the sea nearly opposite to Bolama.
The Biaffares, although in many respects similar
to the other natives of the coast, are more civilized,.
in consequence of their intercourse with the Man-
dingoes, whose country touches theirs on the
east, and whom they imitate in many particulars,
especially in their costume.
The country of the Mandingoes extends more
than 600 miles into the interior, on the left bank
of the Gambia. Next to them come the
Jalofes and Bàrbacines. The territory of the
latter extends to the river Guinala, and beyond
them are the Biaffares and the Nallus. The
country inhabited by these tribes extends about
180 miles from the coast. Beyond them, and
nigh to the Fulos, are some more tribes of the
Mandingoes, who have preferred settling there
to the nomadic hfe of the other tribes of their
nation.
The Mandingoes are generally corpulent, and
not so black as the people living on the sea-board,
though they have not the same mulatto appearancç
as the Fulos. They are well formed and very
208 MANDINGO CHARACTER AND COSTUME.
active, and have a lively expression and happy
countenance. They are affable and hospitable.
As traders they are said to be true and faithful in
their dealings; and, on the whole, they are con¬
sidered the most civilized, industrious, and clever
of all the tribes in this part of Africa. Most of
them speak the Arabic language. They carry on
a considerable trade with the interior, from the
coast to Timbuctoo, a journey which takes a
period of six months to accomplish.
The ground around their habitations is well
cultivated. Their dress is like that of the Jalofes ;
they wear a kind of gown or shirt of black and
white cotton, of home manufacture, with very
broad sleeves, and reaching to near the knee,
where it is open. Under this they wear a pair
of close-fitting drawers. The legs are left quite
naked from the knee ; and the feet are shod with
sandals made of untanned hide. Their hair is
braided, and on the head is placed a small cap,
forming a kind of diadem. They are good horse¬
men. Their horses are of the Barbary breed, of
which the Fulos have large troops. They are also
very expert in war, and said to be capable of much
endurance under privation and suffering. The
arms they use are the sword, the knife, the zaguay,
poisoned arrows, and also the musket—sonle of
them being considered good shots. They carry
shields made of elephants' ears, which are said to
be impervious to musket balls. When about en-
MANDDÍGAS.
209
gaging tke enemy, those who carry shields form in
front, and on the two flanks, to cover and pro¬
tect the archers and those who carry muskets, who
take their place in the centre.
This armament is something similar to that of
the surrounding tribes.
The Mandingo houses are built of mud, and fur¬
nished with doors and windows in the Portuguese
style. Those which are not of mud are woven in¬
side and outside, and daubed with tar ; the roofs
are made in the same manner, but in the rainy
season they are covered with straw. These huts
are generally round.
In addition to rice, the principal sustenance of
those dwelling on the seaboard, the Mandingoes
prepare a small description of Indian corn, called
milhinho, or panicle, and massaroca, or maize;
also beans, peas, &c., of which they have great
abundance. They are very regular with regard to
their various meals.
The region denominated Mandiugas is divided
into four separate governments, or kingdoms, the
rulers of which are called " Farim." These four
chiefs are, Farim Cabo, who resides near the
Gambia ; Farim-braço, who resides at Bafetsk, near
to the Portuguese Prassidium, and village of
Farim (called, by the* natives, Tubabo-daga), and
who governs all the country extending from his
own village, Bafeta, to the Portuguese settlement
of Geba ; the Farim-Coculim, who resides near to
tOL. I. p
210
THE BIJAGOZ.
the country of the Nallus ; and Farim Landima,
whose residence is near the source of the Rio
Grande.
All the above pay homage to the great chief, or
emperor, called Mandimansa, a royal personage,
whom the Portuguese, I think, have never yet had
the honour of seeing, and at the mention of whose
name the Mandingoes most respectfully doff their
caps.
All the Mandingoes are Mahomedans ; and their
Bixirins, or Caciques, are persons of information,
and very zealous, as missionaries, in propagating
their opinions, and distributing such portions of the
Koran as they consider likely to effect their object
They are much revered for their learning and
zeal, together with the austerity. of their lives.
Their dress is long, with capes and ferragoulos, a
sort of cloak. They wear large hats, which they
purchase from Europeans. Their superior is called
the Ale-mame.
We next proceed to speak of the Bijagoz, to the
south of the Rio Grande—a people very black, very
ferocious, and much addicted to piracy. The men
of this tribe usually occupy themselves in manu¬
facturing canoes, by aid of which they make war,
seizing and destroying all they meet with on the
high seas. On. such occasions they recognize no
difference between friend or foe.
The Burames, the Balantes, the Banhames, the.
Biaffares, and the Nallus, have continually occasion
THEIR COSTUME AND CUSTOMS. 211
to complain of the depredations of the Bijagoz, who
appear to be the " enemies of all, the Mends of
none."
Notwithstanding their apparent recklessness,
however, they have some respect for the Portu¬
guese ; but even in this case it is self-interest which
predominates, for they feel the urgent necessity of
keeping up some trade with the latter. In conse¬
quence of this they frequently visit the forts, and
receive in a Mendly manner the few Portuguese
who come to trade with litem ; but this is the ex¬
tent of their toleration, for if a vessel is unfor¬
tunately wrecked on any of their islands, they
consider it as fair gain ; and, having divided the
prize, they retain the unfortunate individuals whom
they may have taken with it in captivity, until
ransomed by their Mends : the amount demanded
is, however, in general very moderate.
There is a great difference between the costume
of these islanders and that of the inhabitants of the
mainland. The majority of them live at sea, and
they are in general good seamen—so much so that,
when one of their canoes capsizes, they immediately
awim arotmd it like aquatic animals, and having
righted it, they get in again, and paddle along
with their shovel-shaped - oars, which they call
pangayps. When on shore, their principal occupa¬
tion is drinking palm wine, while the women are
engaged in preparing habitations, in plantingj
fishing, and other occupations, which, in dviHzed
p 2
212
RELIGIOUS OPINIONS.
countries, are peifonned by men. The women are
naked from the waist upwards ; and they wear a
kind of petticoat of pahn-leaves, which reaches to
the knees.
The men wear a description of trousers manu¬
factured from the same material, but so made as to
prove a greater hindrance m walking than of any
real benefit as a covering.
Their usual weapons are the zaguay, made of a
round piece of iron ; and very short, small swords^
weU set; and muskets,.the stocks of which are
ornamented with small brass nails, which they
obtain from the Portuguese in exchange for tortoise-
shell. Their arrows are made of the bones of the
fish called bagre ; and the point, which is very
sharp, is poisoned.
They worship an imagiuary deity, called Balóla,
whose priests, it is commonly believed by the
people, hold intercourse with the devü. The
superstitious rites and sorceries practised are similar
to those of the Jambacozes and other neighbouring
tribes.
They, however, hold one opinion which is pecu¬
liar to themselves, namely, that if they die volun¬
tarily at a distance from home, their spirit flies to
their native place, where it continues in the enjoy¬
ment of life. For this reason, many of them,
when they arrive at a certain age, in captivity, do
not hesitate to deprive themselves of life by holding
in their breath, and thereby causing suffocation.
INHABITED ISLANDS.
213
Each of the group of inhabited islands—twelve
in number—^is governed by a chief, whose autho¬
rity, however, is very limited, with the exception
of that of the chiefs of Cantrabac and Orango.
The inhabited islands are—Fermosa Caraxa,
CaraveUa or Gamona, Huno, Mantera or the
Slaves' Island, Uracao, Point Island or Cazegut,
Red * Island or Canhabac, Ago Grande, Orango,
Bolama, and Gallinhas ; the two latter belong to
the Portuguese possessions. The so-called Desert
Islands, some of which are partially inhabited,
are-—Areas, Meio or Middle, Joâo Vieira, Caval-
los, Poüao, and Alcatraz ; as also the islets of
Papagaios or Parrots, to the north ; and Porcos
or Pigs, to the south-east. Those that are inhabited
are dependent on the larger islands for supplies.
The islands are considered much more healthy
than the mainland. Along the coast they are in
general very fertile and well wooded, and in some
there are springs of water flowing down from
among the rocks.
With regard to the Nallus, I shall merely remark
that their territory forms the boundary of the Portu¬
guese dominions in that direction. Portugal has not
latterly kept up any fortifications at Rio de Nuno,
though the construction of a fort at the entrance
of this river would afford protection and accommo¬
dation, both, of which are much needed. There
should also be one at Guinala, where, in the be-
^nning of the seventeenth century, the Portuguese
214 PROPAGATION OF CHRISTIANITY.
had an establishment ; and another higher np
towards Biguba, where stood the fort of Sebastian
Fernando, built to cheek the incursions of the
Casamanca. In 1831 an attempt was made at
usurpation at the mouth of the St. Domingo,
which no doubt would have proved successful, had
it not been for the establishment of the Bolor
Praesidium, erected under the direction of 'that
clever naval officer. Lopes de Lima, from whose
statistics I have takeii the liberty of making ex¬
tracts respecting the above particulars.
I have already spoken of the religion of the
Jambacozes and Xinas, and of the other native
tribes ; and I may add that, generally speaking,
the inhabitants of Guinea are wild and intractable,
and much attached to Fetichism, with the excepticai
of the Felupes, who are more manageable, and not so
much opposed to Christianity. My opinion is, that
if, in a Christian spirit, active measures were taken
for bringing them over to the true faith, a rich
harvest of converts would be brought into the
Church. With the Mandingoes this would be moré
difficult, as the great majority of them profess
Mahomedanism, in which they are all instructed by
their Bixurins, or Caciques, and with which there
is mingled a large portion of heathen customs and
sorceries. They are most punctilious in their
observance of the various fasts alid stated prayers, as
enjoined by the Koran, of which they have short
sentences sewed up in small bags, and suspended
CONVERSIONS.
215
around their necks ; these they call gris-gris.
They also wear about their wrists large beads.
These people justly consider themselves more
civilized than any of their surrounding neighbours,
consequently they are more confirmed in their false
opinions.
There have been several conversions to Chris¬
tianity from amongst the Casangas, Papéis, Ban-
huns, Balantas, Biaffares, and Bajagoz, who now
compose the coloured Christians, or Grumetes, of
the Portuguese settlements ; but who, notwith¬
standing their profession, are merely nominal Chris¬
tians, as they in general blend most of their heathen
customs and practices with Christianity. They
seem, in common with many more enlightened
nations, to consider that the faith they have em¬
braced requires no more than a regular attendance
at church.
The religion of most of the nations inhabiting
the seaboard, although differing on minor points,
is, after all, merely Theism, mixed with the ab¬
surdities of Fetichism. They acknowledge but one
God, and have no idols, or idol-temples ; but they
believe in an evü spirit, whom they are anxious to
propitiate, in order to avert the evil which he may
be disposed to inflict on them.
For this purpose they have their xinas, or sacred
places, in the adjoining forests near to certain trees,
in the centre of the villages, or on the beach, and
sometimes in the royal palace. In the xina a stick
216 SORCEEERS AND EVTL SPIRITS.
is stuck into the ground, on the top of which is
placed a sea shell, into which the king, or a Grandee
deputed by him, pours a libation of pahn wine ; at
the same time a goat is offered up, and several
ceremonies peculiar to the different nations, or
tribes, are used—aU intended to deprecate impend¬
ing evil.
They have a crude notion of the immortality of
the soul. When attacked by sickness, they consider
that the Hiran, or evil spirit, has caused it. Under
these circumstances they have recourse to the Jam-
hacoz, or sorcerer, who is considered to have great
influence with, and control over, the demon. These
sorcerers pretend, like the witch of Endor, to he
able to conjure up the souls of the departed, and ta
hold conversation with them, or with some spirits
that appear as their representatives. They pretend,'
also, to have a familiar, with whom they converse,,
and who, they assert, inhabits a very dark room,
and is invisible to all save themselves. This evil
spirit they propitiate by gifts, to bring again into
their presence, or into communication with them,
the soul of any individual whom they name,
and whom they desire to see. On these occasions
they perform some of the most ridiculous and
absurd ceremonies, accompanied by the most
amusing and ludicrous jugglery. The general
response of the oracle is, that it was the wish of the
defunct to die. The Jambacoz attends the remains,
of the deceased to the grave. He also celebrates:
marriages.
NATIVE MERCHANTS-
217
The people inhabiting the interior of Portuguese
(ruinèa are divided into three distinct classes : first,
the merchants, of whom there are the white,
the mulatto, and the black. They assume various
costumes—Portuguese, English, French, or any
other, according to their fancy ; but the Euro¬
pean style generally predominates, as they consider
it most convenient, and it appears most consonant
with their tastes and general interests, as opposed
to the degraded customs of their barbarous neigh¬
bours.
The native or coloured merchants generally
conduct their trade with the interior by means
of female agents, whom they select partly on
account of their knowledge of the customs of the
natives and their acquaintance with the people.
They are very clever in managing the stores ; and,
having friends and relations in the country, are
yery successful in their speculations. They are
considered, as the wives of those traders, and are
said to be very faithful to the interests of their
husbands in every particular. Indeed, by their
means some of their lords are said to become
immensely rich.
The second class are the soldiers, who are
sent either from the Cape Verde Islands or
from Portugal.
The third class are those already mentioned,
namely, the Grumetes or native Christians, most of
whom are very licentious in their conduct, and
addicted to habits of intoxication.
218
BAKBAROUS CUSTOMS.
When a marriage ceremony is performed, it is
necessary, on leaving the church, to have an armed
escort to protect the bride ; for without such pro¬
tection she might be exposed to a barbarous cus¬
tom which prevails amongst the native tribes—^that,
namely, according to which a number of persons
endeavour to seize the bride, and detain her as a
captive, untü ransomed by the gift of a certain
quantity of brandy.
Some of the customs which they practise on
women after their confinement are also most bar¬
barous and inhuman. The mother is separated
from her husband-for a period of three years, that
she may give undivided attention to her offspring ;
and, in the meantime, the husband supplies himself
with another partner. A man departing from the
above rule subjects himself to ejectment from his
own house by the female relatives of his wife, as
she is considered under their special authority
during the term above mentioned. The partner
whom the husband selects is generally chosen from
amongst his numerous slaves. This custom pre¬
vails in Guinea as well as in the Cape Verde
Islands, and tends much to increase the wealth of
the slave-owners.
The season of our arrival on the Western Coast
is one which often proves fatal to Europeans. The
fevers called carneiradas, which annually visit this
coast, were then prevalent; the season was also
very rainy, and was therefore unfavourable for
visiting the various localities worthy of note.
MERCANTILE ESTABLISHMENTS. 219
In Teference to the fortified settlements belong¬
ing to Portugal, although the Crown claims all the
territory extending from 13° 10' N. lat. at the
south of Cape Santa Maria of Gambia, to 10° 20'
N. lat. terminating at Cape Verga, it never
actually occupied the whole extent ; and since the
middle of the sixteenth century the merchants of
the island of Santiago have concentrated their
commercial factories between the Rio Casamansa,
the mouth of which lies in 12° 33' N. lat. and the
Rio Grande of Guinala or Biguba, which enters
the sea at 11° 28' N. lat.
The first establishment formed was Cachen,
situated on the banks of the river St. Domingo, or
Farim, which enters the sea at 12° 09' N. lat., and
6° 57' W. long, of Lisbon. Cachen is fifteen miles
distant from the mouth of the river.
At first they had but one factory, which was es¬
tablished in a village of the Buramos or Papéis
of Cacanda, the situation of which was farther in¬
land. Here the Portuguese resided, along with
the negroes, under the authority of a Feitor do Rio,
or factor of the river—a person of great influence,
and highly respected by the negroes.
Manoel Lópes Cardoso, one of these Feitors, ob¬
tained in 1588 from King Chapala leave to build a
fort, under pretext that it was necessary to protect
%
the Portuguese from enemies' ships visiting the
coast. Hence originated the weU-known Casa
Forte, which was built at the expense of the
220
SIEGE OF THE CASA FORTE.
settlers, independent of any aid from His Majesty,
and fortified with artillery procured for the pur¬
pose. After the fort was completed, and placed
in an efficient condition, houses were erected under
its protection. Hither the Portuguese removed
from their former residence, the village in which
they had lived along with the negroes ; who, seeing
how they had been deceived, united together in
the year 1590 for the purpose of destroying the
fort and exterminating the Portuguese. In conse¬
quence of want of vigilance, the latter might have
been surprised, had it not been for two intelligent
black women, who, under cover of the night,
visited their lovers at the fort, and informed them
of the extensive conspiracy formed against them*
Preparations were therefore immediately made
for defence ; and so effective were the hasty ar¬
rangements, that the Portuguese not only sus¬
tained the close siege of many thousands of bar¬
barians for three days in succession, but also de¬
stroyed great numbers of the enemy without any
loss on their side. At length the assailants sued
for peace, and relinquished their project. Trading
now commenced again, and many of the natives
becommg Christians, united themselves to the
settlement, which henceforth increased iñ pros-»
perity.
The Portuguese then established another factory
on the opposite bank of the river. This was first
commenced at the village cd Buguendo of the
HOSTILITY OF THE NATIVES.
221
Banhuns, near to the Esteiro, or arm of the river
St. Domingo, which it enters nine miles from its
mouth, and six miles beyond Cachen on the op¬
posite side. It continued to flourish for some
time ; the sod being very fruitful, and, together
with abundance of cereals, being favourable also to
the production of large quantities of oranges. The
natives, however, were continually annoying and
goading the settlers who resided amongst them—so
much so that, in 1581, the Feitor Francisco
d'Andrade appealed to King Masatamba of Casa-
mansa, who, together with his people, was a
great friend of the Portuguese. A friendship
commenced at the beginning of the sixteenth
century, when Queen Dona Catherina pre¬
sented a sceptre of solid gold to one of the
native kings, and has continued and increased
to the present day. By the advice of King
Masatamba the Portuguese removed to a village
called Sarah, situated in his own dominionSi
This village is encircled by an arm of the river
which divides the Casangas from the Banhuns,
and is twelve miles higher up from Cachen, on the
opposite bank. The country around is sickly, but
the situation is considered very secure. The
Portuguese gave it the name of St. Philip.
At this period the river St. Domingo was called
the river of Farim, from the country of Farim
Cabo, where the Portuguese traded.
The Portuguese also had at that time extensive
222 CACHEN.
settlements on the banks of the Rio Grande at
Guíñala or Biguba, even greater than those at
Cachen, of which we will speak hereafter, when
treating of the Rio Grande,
The Capitäo Mor, or high captain, Antonio da
Fonceca Omellas, endeavoured to remove the
settlement of Cachen to Botte, at the mouth of
the river Jatta, to the south of-the bar of St.
Domingo and of the Matta, or dense forest, of
Putama ; but he could not succeed in accomplisht
ing his object. From its commencement Cachen*
has been divided into two suburbs—one known
as Villa Fría, the cold town ; the other as ViUa
Quente, the hot town. The former, which is in¬
habited by white people, is composed of one very
long broad street, extending along the banks of
the river, which commences to the west at the
gate of Casa Forte, where the Governor residea^
and terminates to the east at the ruins of
an old college of Capuchins. A number of lanes
communicate with the Villa Quente, which is the
residence of the Grumetes, and the suburbs cf
which extend to the palisades. There are some
good houses here, as also the mother church built
of stone, and dedicated to " Our Lady of the
Nativity."
The water, as at Bissau, is about a muaket-
shot from the fortress, at the Paprís village ^f
Cacanda.
The fortress has fifteen guns, and is surrounded
MATTA DE PUTAMA.
223
by trenches and paKsades ; two gates, flanked by
bulwarks, lead into the fortress.
The enclosure within the palisades is about one
mile long, and about one-third of a müe broad.
In consequence of the accumulation of slime or
mud which collects in the vicinity of the quay (so
called), the landing-place by the river side is very in¬
convenient for walking. Near the quay is a ware¬
house, and the Funco or slave residence, belonging
to Dona Rosa de Carvalho Alvarenga, a wealthy
•and influential lady.
Point Calaca is situated to the west of the for¬
tress, and five miles beyond the river Bianga, which
is only navigable for pinnaces and small boats ; it
is within the kingdom of Matta de Putama, which
extends to the point south of the bar of the river
St. Domingo. Although this pl^ce has often been
destroyed by wars on former occasions, yet a large
supply of hides and wax is at present obtained
from it by the merchants of Cachen, of whom
Alvaranga, Barreto, and Leabra, are the three
principal. At the extremity of this kingdom, on
the sea-coast, commences the territory of the
Felupes of Botte.
To the east of Cachen the traveller beholds the
extensive uncultivated fields of Sam-Sam, a border
territory which the people are fearful of cultivating,
lest their neighbours, the Papéis or Buramos of
Churo, should annoy them during their operations,
or deprive them of the produce of their labour.
224
NATIVE TEBBÏTORIES.
Beyond the kingdom of the Papéis commences
the territory of the Nagas, or Banhames; and
again, beyond them, the region of the Balantas,
which extends to the confines of the Mandingoei
of Farim.
Between the Papéis of Baola and the Banhames
a branch of the river »St. Domingo flows in a
southern direction. On approaching the island of
Bussis, it divides into four different streams—^the
Jatta to the west, the Emperna! to the eastj the
Ancora and the Esteiro do Pico to the south.
On the north bank of the St. Domingo, from the
point of Om to the Esteiro of Sarah, reside the
Banhui^, whose principal village is Buguendo.
Beyond Sarah, on the same side, is the extensive
property of the Lady Dona Rosa de CarvaJho
Alvarenga. It is. called Lions Poüao, was origi¬
nally purchased from the Banhuns, and is well
cultivated.
Eastward from the Esteiro of Sarah are the
lands of the Cassangas, lying between the rivers
St. Domingo and Casamansa^ and reaching to the
boundary of the Mandingoes, in whose territory
is situated the Portuguese praesidium of Farim.
This settlement is at least ninety miles upwards
from Cachen, to which government it is subject
In 1641 the Capitao Mor of Cachen, Gonçald
de Gamboa, founded at Farim, the settlement of
Tubabo-daga, a term which, in the Mandingo
language, means village of the white people.
SETTLEMENT OF FÁK1M.
«
225
with some Portuguese, removed hither from the
village of Matampanha on the river Geba. Here
carried on trade, living with some Christian
negroes at the village, where there was also a prsB-
sidium called Geba, after the name of the river.
From this, the river Farim or St. Domingo was
declared by the Capitào* Mor to be free for all
settlers to trade upon.
This settlement of Farim was at first merely a
village without fortifications. In the year 1692,
however, in consequence of some dispute between
the settlers and the Mahdingoes, the former
strengthened the place by surroimding it with a
strong palisade, on which were mounted some
guns. In 1835 the works were again put in
repair, and mounted with new artDlery carriages ;
but it was not only the strength of the fortifica¬
tion, but also some more important considerations,
that kept the Mandingoes in peace; for being
an intelligent people, they were perfectly aware of
tbe advantages of that uninterrupted intercourse
and trade with the whites by which they had been
enabled to realize large profits. For this reason,
although considered a warlike nation, they are in
general inoffensive, and never proceed to extremi¬
ties except when greatly provoked.
All the merchants of Cachen have their factories
at Farim, from whence they receive the largest
portion of their hides and ivory. They also
export wax and gold, for which they receive in
VOL. I. Q
226 PORTUGUESE AîîD MANDINGOES.
return European merchandise, which principally
consists of fire-arms, gunpowder, arrangées (a sort
of bread) tobacco, silver, and copper. The Man-
dingoes also export salt from the coast, and glue.
To the latter article they attribute peculiar virtues»
believing that neither marriages, contracts, nor
any other kind of solemn agreement, can ever be
effectually consummated without its presence,
and they consider it no less essential as a means of
restoring health to the sick. The Portuguese of
this settlement and the Mandingoes also send to
Cachen and to the coast white and blue coarse
clothes, which are exchanged with the people on
the seaboard for other goods; also rice, horse
millet, and mendobi.
The Mandingoes cultivate large quantities of
cotton and indigo of a beautiful quality ; and no
doubt it was from them or from Nallus that the
inhabitants of Santiago, and others of the Cape
Verde Islands, learned the value of this plant, of
which they were for a long time ignorant.
The Portuguese population of Farim, including
that of Cachen (which is 1800) and of the praesi¬
dium of Farim, amounts at present to 2,600, in¬
cluding the Grumetes, or Christian blacks.
Farim has a parish church called " Our Lady of
Grace."
The chief in command at the praesidium is a
military man with the title of commandant, and
his authority is subject to that of the Governor of
ZINQUICHOR.
227
Cachen. Both are subordinate to the supreme
authority of the Governor of Portuguese Guinea,
whose residence is at Bissao.
The second ancient and useful dependency of
Cachen is the prassidium of Zinquichor, Ziquechor,
or Isiquichor, as it is occasionally called. It is
situated on the south bank of the river Casamansa,
and was founded, in 1643, by the Capitao Mor of
Cachen, Gonçalo de Gamboa, who had settled at
St. Philip of Sarah ; but, finding it imhealthy, had
removed to Zinquichor, on the banks of the small
river Bujets, a branch of the Casamansa, from
which it separates about forty miles from its
mouth. This river flows through the kingdom of
Guinguim (Banhun lands), and enters the sea at
Lala, in the bay of Bolor, where is another Portu¬
guese praesidium, of which we shall soon have
occasion to speak.
The river Bujets, or Guinguim, is commonly
considered the most direct route to the interior,
from Cachen to Zinquichor. '
The inhabitants of Cachen come in their canoes
to Bolor, where they enter the Lala, by which they
proceed up to Zinquichor ; but in their progress
they are obliged to pay a tax or tribute, called
daxa, to the King of Guinguim. Through this
channel a considerable trade is carried on between
Cachen and Zinquichor, principally in wax, hides,
ivory, and gum.
It was no doubt the advantages to be derived
q2
228
ISLAND OF MOSQUITO.
from the position which induced the Oapitâo Mor
to found this praesidium of Zinquichor.
The district was formed into two parishes, with
a church dedicated to " Our Lady of the Light."
There were also some Portuguese residents on
the north bank of the river, at a village called
Baoger.
The praesidium of Zinquichor contains about
700 inhabitants. The trench and palisades still
remain, with three bulwarks built of brick, on
which are mounted eight guns, but not in veiy
good order.
No doubt the trade of Cachen would have in¬
creased had the Portuguese settlement at Baoger
been continued, as through it access was obtained
to the interior as far as Aldea dos Herejes, also
called Jereja, on the river Vintain, which flows
into the Gambia, joining it three miles above Fort
James.
The population of the village of Herejes is prin¬
cipally composed of the Portuguese descendants o£
those who first settled at the Gambia.
In 1828 the French, regardless of all prior daim
to possession by the Portuguese, and their exclusive
privilege to trade on the Casamansa, took pos¬
session of the island of Mosquito, or Ito, at the
north point of the bar, and established a small
settlement, which, however, has not succeeded
according to their expectations. Agaio, in 1836,
they established a factory at Selius, above Zinqui-
ENCROACHMENTS CE THE FRENCH. 229
chor, where their vessek come to trade, although
in general they are not well received by the
Cassangas.
In 1827, when it became known at the Cape
Verde Islands that the French intended to take
possession of the entrance of the Casamansa,
Manoel Antonio Martius, administrator-general of
the Orchilla, informed the Portuguese home go¬
vernment of it ; but in consequence of the unhappy
state of things consequent on the usurpation of D.
Miguel, it was not until 1830 that any notice was
taken of the communication by the colonial office.
An order was then issued to fortify the island of
Mosquito ; but it was now too late, as the French
flag proudly waved over its battlements. M.
Martius immediately wrote home, informing the
government that it was now out of his power to
obey its instructions, and requesting fresh orders
as to the course he ought to follow. He, at the
same time, informed the government that he was
given to understand that it was the intention of
some adventurer to hoist an adverse flag on the
point of Bolor ; and if this -should prove true, they
(the Portuguese) would lose the two mouths of
the Casamansa, as also of the St. Domingo. In con¬
sequence of this information, mstructions were im¬
mediately sent out to erect a prsssidium at Bolor,
which is in the territory of the Felupes, and which
is denominated Ponta do Baluarte, or Bulwark
Point.
230
NATIVE VILLAGES.
The above instructions were proiriptly attended
to. The position of this bulwark is in 12° 10' N.
lat., and 7° W. long, of Lisbon,* at the extremity
of a sandy shore, extending towards the village of
Jafimeo, which lies about one mile to the west of
of it, on the border of a lagoon of fresh water. At
the distance of nearly half-a-mile to the south there
is a rock in the sea, called Point Banquinho,
between which and Point Bolor is the channel
through which vessels pass, at the distance of a
musket shot, on their way to the St. Domingo or
to the port of Bolor.
The village of Bolor lies to the north, separated
from the Portuguese fortress by a marshy piece of
ground, about half-a-mile long. This village was
once so populous, that Caelho says, " it is as full
of natives as of wild beasts." It is situated on the
edge of the bay. To the east of it is Lala, inside
of the Bujeto, which here enters the bay, and
which extends to Point Om, north of the entrance
of the river Farim.
Around are the villages of the Felupes, Ossol,
Agin, Arame, Catam, Jobeli, EHa, and Varella-^all
within a radius of from three to four and a-half
miles. Many of the inhabitants speak the Portu¬
guese language, and all appear very friendly with
the Portuguese in the praesidium.
About twelve miles to the west, on the way
to Cape Roxo, on the sea coast, is the vUlage of
Socujaque, inhabited by Felupes, who are also
* From Greenwich 16® 8' W.
FORTIFICATIONS OF SOCUJAQUE.
friendly to the Portuguese. This praesidium is a
very important position, as it forms the key to two
rivers.
In 1831 the fortification was put into efficient
order .by the addition of two half-redoubts, on
which were placed six guns, which commanded, to
the south, the channel of Banquinha, and on the
east the port of Bolor. The two redoubts are
united by a stockade. At the same time the land
around was drained, and a deep trench opened to
encircle the fortress, which occupies an area of 300
square feet. There are two conduits, which convey
the water across the praesidium into the trench.
Officers' quarters, barracks for the soldiers, maga¬
zines, stores, a prison, and three or four private
houses, were also erected within the enceinte.
At the time of my voyage these buildings were
in a most dilapidated condition, which is much to
be regretted, not only nationally and commercially,
but on account of its being considered one of the
most healthy points of the coast of Guinea. So
highly is it estimated on this account, that invalids
are sent there from Cachen, for the benefit of the
cool sea breezes, which they can enjoy protected by
the fortress from those alarms to which all white
people are subjected in this settlement. The
Felupes, who are averse to war, are much attached
to white people.
Large quantities of rice are annually sent from
Bolor to Cachen; and if the usual supply were
BOLOR.
withheld, the latter would inevitably suffer 'from
famine.
Bolor is also the great dépôt of the surrounding
region for the wax, hides, &c., collected from the
Felupes, and the tribes of Mátta de Putama and
Rotte, or Papéis. It also secures the trade of the
islands of Jatta, and the Gaio or Costa de Baixo/
or the Lower Coast.
The traffic between Zinquichor, BisaaoJ and
Cachen also passes through Bolor ; and in conse^
quence of all these advantages the Capitao Mmj
desired that the custom-house, garrison, and public
edifices might be removed thither from Cachen,
leaving there only a fortified factory.
It is much to be. deplorêd that so important an
establishment should be abandoned and suffered to
fall into decay ; even now I doubt not that a sum
of from 500Z. to 1,000/. would be sufficient to re¬
store it to a tolerably efficient state.
In 1852 there were only about twenty Portu¬
guese resident at Bolor. Happily, from the active
measures adopted by our youthful and greatly-
beloved sovereign, D. Pedro V., and by the counsel
arid energy of "the friend of the Portuguese
colonies," the present Secretaiy-of-state for Marine
and Colonial Affairs, the noble and respected Vis¬
count Sa da Bandeira, our foreign possessions have
lately undergone such a renovation and general
improvement, that. I should not wonder if persons
subsequently visiting this and other places described
DECLINE'OP TRADE.
233
by me should find a great change of scene, and
many alterations for the. betteiv^and I rejoice in
ihdul^^g m this ho]^.
Having; detáined\my readers, so long on the
banks of the. Gasainansa, before visiting the Rio
Grande, I shall m^ely remark, that of the great
trade established in the middle of the sixteenth
century by the inhabitants of Santiag« with Porto
da Cruz, or Port of the Cross, at the mouth of the
river on the northern side, and also with Biguba,
je%hteèn miles higher up, on the right bank, little
now remains, and it is only occasionally that some
vessel makes a call. What a difference from the
period above referred to, when a more considerable
trade was carried on than at Cachen, as described
by Almada, Guerreiro, and Coelho. The first in¬
forms us that in 1594 a fort was erected near thé
large village .of Porto da Cruz, for the protection
of the shipping, which the French were then in the
habit of capturing. The priest, Guerreiro, in his
" Annual Relation," speaks of this port, of which, in
1603, Antonio Nunez was the factor, and states that
by the discharge of ten or twelve shots he had
preserved the priests o£ the mission of Biguba, of
which Sebastiäo Femandes was factor. He says :
" I don't thiak there is any portion of the Portu¬
guese possessions in Guinea where the people ap¬
pear more healthy and vigorous than do the Portu¬
guese of Biguba." .But Coelho,-in his description
of Guinea, written in 1669, enters more at large
234
PORTUGUESE ISLANDS.
on the state of those places at that time : he says
that, prior to 1640, Captain Christovao de Mello
had, at the port of Guinala, a fortified, residence,
where he mounted a number of iron and brass
guns, and that he had twenty-two vessels of his
own ; but that, in consequence of the constant
broils with the natives, he removed the settlement
of Bolola to*a position above Biguba, where he also
had a fort—all of which, however, he abandoned.
When he returned to Portugal, in 1640, on the
restoration of the kingdom, which had been
usurped by the Philips of Spain, Henriquez at the
same time abandoned the fort at Biguba, and re¬
turned to Portugal, in charge of eighteen ships.
It is strange that, since that period, no forts
or establishments have been formed on the Rio
Grande at Biguba or at Guinala, where, at
present, ships only caU occasionally to trade with
the Biaffares and Mandingoes to the north, and
also with Nallús to the south, or with the islands
of Bijagoz, which are at the entrance of the
Grande. Among these, on the north side, is
the Portuguese island called Bolama, which lies
to the south of the Esclavos or Slave island,
originally inhabited by fugitive slaves, who fled
thither from the factories of Porta da Cruz and
Biguba, in the sixteenth and seventeenth cen¬
turies ; and the Portuguese islands of Galinhas,
lying between the two former, but more to sea¬
ward, a small channel being between it and Bolama,
COMMEKClAIi ENTBKPRISE.
235
and a larger one between these two islands and
Esclavos on the south entrance of the river.
It might be supposed that those settlements of
the river Guíñala would, if they had not been
abandoned, be at this day even more flourishing
than formerly; for Coelho, speaking of the trade
with them, said '^that he and his uncle had amassed
a large fortune in it."
After their abandonment, in the middle of the
seventeenth century, the Portuguese who remained
behind soon removed to the river Geba, which
appears to be an arm of the Bio Grande, and
enters the sea near to the island of Bissao.
They appear to have been attracted hither by
the gold trade with the Mandingoes, and therefore
settled down amongst the negroes at the village of
Malampanha, in the kingdom of Geba, which is
subject to the Faiimbraco. From thence they
traded with Bissao, at which port some of them
resided, and where they were on good terms with
the Papéis, among whom were a number of black
Christians, the converts of Portuguese and Spanish
missionaries who visited the neighbourhood in
1584 and in 1603.
About 1690 the "Company of Cachen and
Cape Verde" directed particular attention to the
port of Bissao, and in 1696 D. Pedro II. estab¬
lished there a fortified factory ; and, as in all the
conquests of Portugal, the clergy, considering that
civilization could only be established on a refigiqus
236
ISLAm) OF BISSAO.
basis, with praiseworthy zeal took their lives in
their hands and followed up the discoverers in.their
progress to the most inhospitable climes. Where-
ever the standard of Portugal was erected, there
they endeavoured to implant the religion of the
Cross. It was under the pressure of this apostolic
zeal that the venerable bishop, D. Fr. Victorino do
Porto, visited Bissao, where he erected a church
built of stone, and dedicated to "Our Lady of
Candlemas," and also the convent for the Capuchin
friars. He was instrumental, too, in converting
the king, Becompolo-lo, and a number of his people,
to Christianity. This excellent bishop established
at Bissao a mission, which was afterwards very suc¬
cessful in converting the natives ; the village also
increased daily in trade and population, until, in
1776, D. Joze I. considered it of so much impor¬
tance, that he built a fortress to protect the interests
of the town.
"Hie island of Bissao, of which the chief town is
St. Joseph, is the principal of the Portuguese
settlements in Guinea : it is twelve miles long from
east to west, and ten broad from north to south,
and is divided into six districts, each of which is
under the éontrol of a separate petty prince, all
being subject to the King of Jantim, vulgarly
called King Joseph, from the town of that name.
It is separated from the island of Bussis by the
Esteiro do Pico (so named by Pimentel), which is
a branch of the Empemal. Bussis is about eight
ISLAND OF JATTA.
237
miles long firom east to west. It is said that
better palm oil is manufactured here than at any-
other place in Guinea. It also abounds in rice and
wax. To the west of it lies the island of Jatta,
from which it is separated by the river Ancoras,
which there enters the sea. Ships find shelter both
here and to the south of two islets, or behind
them, and also at the point of the island of
Bussis, at a little port where there is a village
belongmg to the king, the Papéis of which are serfs
of the sovereign.
The island of Jatta extends twenty-one miles
from east to west, and affords abundance of cattle
and rice, and some wax. To the south-west, sepa¬
rated from it by the Esteiro de Catharina, lie
the two islets of Caio, which answer as landmarks
for vessels passing through the channel.
The largest is about three miles in circumference,
and is the only one inhabited. The small one is
covered with trees, but no persons reside on it.
Between the islands of Bussis and Bissao is the
isle of Elephante. To the south of Bissao is the
wide expanse of ocean, with the island of Areas, at
some distance to the south of which is Bolama.
To the east, and opposite the poist, runs the
Emperna!, a river which divides Bissao from
Balantes, opposite to which is the kingdom of
AntuUa. Beyond the" Empemal is the mouth of
the river Geba, where is the Portuguese settlement
called St Joseph de Bissao.
238
ST. JOSEPH DE BISSAO.
This is a fortified town, having a square redoubt
built of freestone, and flanked by four bulwarks,
the front of each of which is about 100 paces long.
It is surrounded by good trenches, which are at
present used as garden ground. The fortification
is mounted with forty-three iron and nine brass
guns of different calibres. In the fortress are the
governor's quarters, barracks for 200 soldiers and
their officers, the church, the custom-house, and
very large store-houses, built of stone and covered
with tiles. The walls of the town are forty feet
high. A well which had formerly been sunk is
now dry ; the soldiers and inhabitants are therefore
obliged to obtain water from the Fonte do Rey, or
king's fountain, which is situated about a nodle west
of the town, on ground belonging to the natives ;
and when any disagreement occurs the latter im¬
mediately take possession of the fountain, and the
Portuguese are obliged to fight for their daily
supply.
The fortress is about 100 paces from the beach.
On each side of the principal entrance stand two
piUars or joisink blocks, which serve as marks to
the ships where to cast anchor.
The port, although it has some shoals formed by
mud from the river Geba, is nevertheless capable
of containing ships of large tonnage.
Opposite to the anchorage is the Ilheo do Rey,
King Islet, or Ilheo dos Feiticeros, Sorcerer
Island, on which, in the opinion of many persons,
SACRED PLACES.
239
the mercantile establishment of Bissao ought to
have been formed. But it was necessary that the
islet should be surrounded with fortifications within
range of the artillery of the fortress ; and unfortu¬
nately there were some sacred trees, next to which
is the greatest Xina in all the Papéis territory, to
which the people aU devoutly repair by thousands
every year, during the full moon of the month of
March, to celebrate certain rites and ceremonies,
and consult the oracles respecting their agriculture,
and concerning matters connected with the interests
of their nation. It is there also they perform the
usual obsequies of their kings, and elect the suc¬
cessors to the crown. Thither they resort by thou¬
sands, all armed, and to offer any opposition
would iudeed be a dangerous experiment for any
of the new settlers, as it would undoubtedly be
considered a casus belli.
As a proof of their veneration for those sacred
places, I would just mention that a terrible war
broke out with the Papéis of Churo and Cacanda,
which raged for two years, caused by Governor
Cabrai cutting down one of their sacred trees.
A little to the west, outside of the walls of the
town, but under the protection of the ^uns, there
is a village of about 300 cottages and huts, eight or
nine of which are covered with tiles, and only four
built of stone. These are the residences of Portu¬
guese mercantile settlers, of some agents of English
houses at the Gambia, and some French agents
240
TBADE AED SMüGOLING.
from Goree. The remainder of the populatic»!
consists of Grumetes, or native Christians.
The village being open to free-trade, the blacks
often exceed the bounds of moderation, and cause
a great deal of troiible to the general traders.
One-and-a-half mile west of Port Bissao, on
the same island, there is a small village of Papéis,
called Bandim, which is a great resort for foreign
smugglers. This evil might easily be prevented by
the erection of a fort, and by making Bissao exclu¬
sively the place for receiving and dischar^g
cargoes.
Bissao obtains its extensive trade from Geba^
Fa, and Ganjarra, which is about 100 miles highar
up on the Geba. There is also a regular daily
market held at Bissao, where there is a consider¬
able sale of rice, salt, wax, palm-oil, and glue,
supplied by the BaUantas, the islands Bussis, Jatta,
and Caio, as weU as by the Archipelago of the
Bijagoz.
Proceeding from Bissao, we enter the river
Geba, which flows in a north-east direction, dividing
the kingdom of Goale from Balantas, northwards,
and Gofo, belonging to the Biaffares, at the soulh,
until we arrive at the Coroas, or downs, of Goiaje,
ten miles from the mouth of the river. This range
of sand-hills or downs extend on each side of the
river for a considerable distance, leaving in some
places so narrow a channel that two canoes can
scarcely pass abreast. The sand-hills rise so high
PRESIDIUM OP GERA#
241
as not unfrequently to stop the progress of the
tide for three hours ; and during the spring-tides
they cause that strange phenomenon called, there
and in Portuguese India, Macareo. The sudden
and powerful flux and reflux of the tides is very
dangerous to the boats which may then unfortu¬
nately be in the narrow channel of the river ; for
the tide, , when impeded by the sand, cuts for itself
a channel through the impediment : the sand is
also sometimes broken through by the hippopotami.
The boats made use of in this navigation are in
general of a large siae, capable of containing
about 100 persons, independent of cattle and mer¬
chandise.
Having passed the downs, the river becomes
narrower as it flows from the east, dividing the
kingdoms of Anchomene and Achum, to the port
of Almadias, which is the commencement of the
territory of the Mandingoes. Ten miles distant
from this is the Portuguese prœsidium of Geba,
100 miles from Bissao.
In this praesidium there is a village, principally
inhabited by black Christians, a few mulattoes, and
nine or ten whites. The inhabitants altogether
amount to about 1,400, although formerly there
was a much larger number, who subsequently re¬
moved to another praesidium, called Farim, which
we will notice more at large in its proper place.
Geba at present has no fortification or palisade.
Of the above 1,400 inhabitants, 600 are free, and
VOL. I. R
242
TRADE WITH THE NATIVES.
the remaining 800 are slaves. All live on the most
friendly terms with the Mandingoes Mussulmen^
and also with their neighbours the Biaffares, thus
rendering it unnecessary to keep at that place a
commandant or any detachment of mUitary.
However, it would not be amiss to appoint as a
magistrate some officer acquainted with the cus¬
toms of the people, and possessed of influence
amongst them.
Geba has a large market, where is exposed for
sale a considerable assortment of various commodi¬
ties, such as gold, ivory, hides, and other produce
of the country—aU of which are bartered for such
articles as salt, glue, and European merchandise,
which is conveyed in large canoes from Bissao, the
trade of which place would be but inconsiderable
were it not for that of Geba.
Any company trading with the natives living on
the borders of the rivers leading into the interior,
if judiciously conducted, would realize large pro¬
fits, particularly in salt, glue, firearms, and gun¬
powder, the four articles most in demand; for
these they would obtain in barter the various
commodities brought, as above mentioned, to the
markets of Farim and Geba.
The distance between the two praesidiums of
Farim and Geba is about fifty-four miles, forty-
six of which are by water, goods being conveyed
in canoes from Farim to Tandegul on the river
Farim ; from Tendegu to the village of Geba is
eighteen miles overland.
PORTUGUESE ISLANDS.
243
The prsBsidium is established on the right bank
of the river Geba. It is pleasantly situated,
being surrounded by groves of trees ; but although
the inhabitants are nominally Christians^ the
parish church of " Our Lady of Grace " is almost
deserted.
On the left bank of the river, twelve miles
from Geba, and opposite to Port Almadias, is
another praesidium, called Fa. It is in one of
the Mandingo vidages, where, in 1820, a Portu¬
guese merchant established a factory, which is at
present in possession of the Government. The
canoes trading between Bissao and Cachen are
in the habit of cading ; and trade is also carried
on with the Biaffares, who reside on the left
bank of the river.
Distant about sik miles from Fa, on the same
side of the river, is another praBsidium, caded
Ganjarra, established on the 31st of December,
1843. It was formed by permission of the chief
or king of Ganjarra, for the purpose of carrying
on a trade with the Biaffares.
Passing on from Bissao to the Archipelago of
Bijagoz, we would remark' that the Portuguese
possess the two islands of Bolama and Galinhas,
at the entrance of the Bio Grande. The island of
Bolama ori^nady belonged to the King of Guinala ;
but he, in 1607, presented it to the Portuguese,
that they might be enabled to defend themselves
from incursions of the Bijagoz; and although it
R 2
244
BOLAMA.
has itemained in their possession ever since, they
have never yet formed any permanent establish-
ment on it. A large quantity of wood, however,
is obtained from it ; and the neighbouring kings
often afford aid to our men in the performance of
the work, without expense for labour or payment
of duty on the timber.
Portugal remained in undisputed possession of
Bolama until 1792, when a company was formed
in England, which, regardless of all prior claim by
those who had been proprietors for three centuries,
established a factory on the island, almost in aght
of the Portuguese fortified town of Bissao, the
governor of which earned for himself great censure
for his pusillanimous conduct on the occasion, in
allowing this anti-national innovation. But al¬
though the Portuguese did not resent the invasimi,
the natives in some measure did ; for, looking upon
the English as intruders, they had recourse to
arms, determined that there should be no cessation
of war until what they considered an obnoxious
action was punished. The consequence was that
these invaders of the Bolama territory were ere
long ignominiously expelled.
After this the Portuguese continued to cut
timber as before, without any molestation^ the
King of Guinala rendering every assistance
as also the King of Canhabac, who, in 1828,
ratified a contract, which had been previously
entered into, respecting the island of Bol^a.
CAPTURE OF SLAVES.
245
In 1830 a Portuguese praBsidium was established
on the island, notwithstanding a strong remon¬
strance to the contrary by Colonel Findlay, the
English governor at the Gambia.
In the statistics of the colonies of the British
empire, by R. Montgomery Martin, Esq., pub¬
lished in London, 1839, it is stated that in 1792
an association was formed in England with the
view of planting a settlement in the island of
Bolama; but though no opposition was made in
the first instance, the difficulty of establishing a
new colony under circumstances so unfavourable,
and especially in the face of the hostility of
these rude neighbours, obliged them to desist.
The fact is now patent, that the island legiti¬
mately belongs to Portugal, whose fiag has floated
over it since 1830.
Caetano Joze Nozolini, a wealthy merchant,
had, in 1835, built a house and extensive stores
there, and brought under cultivation a large por¬
tion of the ground. But he sustained a severe
loss in 1839, when (as has been stated) an English
sloop landed some men, who immediately, pro¬
ceeded to capture all the slaves who resided on his
plantations, whom they conveyed away, together
with a little schooner belonging to him, which was
then in port. The schooner, not being considered
of any great value, was afterwards restored ; but the
slaves were conveyed to Sierra Leone. However,
the proprietor did not sink beneath the blow, but
246
PRODUCTIONS OF BOLAMA.
with renewed energy commenced operations on his
farm ; and he is now again able to produce a large
quantity of good coffee, which, as it grew there for¬
merly in a wild state, appears to be indigenous to
the soil.
The island is capable of producing not only
coffee, but almost aU tropical productions, its
fertility being very great, and the supply of water
abundant.
But that which gives its principal value to the
island appears to be its extensive forests of timber,
of which mahogany forms a large portion. Among
the other productions, such as maize, rice, and
yams, there is a peculiar fruit, common to aU the
islands of Bijagoz, called Mancarra, in appearance
like a berry, and growing beneath the surface of
the earth. A quantity of wax is also obtained
here:
The beach is visited by turtle, and a quantity
of amber is collected on the shore. The forests
also are frequented by numerous elephants.
The island is eight miles long from east to wesl^
and from three to four broad from north to south.
Its circumference is from twenty-four to twenty-
seven miles. It is situated so near to the mouth of
the Rio Grande, that it appears as if connected with
the mainland, aud apparently forms the northern
point of entrance. To the south-east of the Bio
Grande is a port called Prainhas, which is con¬
sidered safe, except in time of squalls. It has a
ISLAND OF GALINHAS.
247
good landing-place, and a supply of excellent water
close at hand. The port is from sixteen to twenty-
five fathoms deep, increasing twelve feet during
spring-tides.
I have no hesitation in saying that if ship¬
builders were to form an establishment here they
would find it remunerative, as there is such a
plentiful supply of timber to be obtained at a
nominal price.
Two miles to the south-west of the Point of
Bolama lies the island of Galinhas, between which
there is a channel for ships coming from the north,
to enter the Rio Grande. This island is five miles
long, and between two and three broad ; its cir¬
cumference is about fifteen miles. It is quite as
fertile as Bolama, and possesses an extensive
spring of good water, which flows copiously from
the fissures of a rock. There is an abundance of
wood; a quantity of turtle and much amber are
found on the beach; but there is no port, except a
small one for canoes and small boats.
This island was granted in 1830, by the native
king, Canhabac, to a Portuguese merchant, Joa-
quim Antonio de Hattos, who formed a neat rural
establishment upon it. At his death he bequeathed
the island to the Portuguese government.
The entrance to the Rio Grande is to the east-
north-east of these two islands.
In these portions of the coast of Guinea, although
they are considered most unhealthy, the heat is not
248
PORTUGUESE GUINEA.
more intense than at the Cape Verde Islands. The
rainy season almost invariably commences about
the end of May, and is generally accompanied by
heavy squalls from the south-east, which are pre¬
ceded by dense darkness. These rains continue to
fall very heavily for two or three hours : when thé
wind changes to its usual point, the north-east, thé
atmosphere again becoiqcs clear and serene. In
September there is an abundance of rain, whidi
sometimes continues all day, accompanied with
soft south winds. From October imtil May the
north-east wind prevails with little intermission:
this period is called their "dry season." In the
mornings of December and January there are land
breezes from the east, much stronger than those in
the Cape Verde Islands.
Carneiradas, or fevers, being so prevalent, it is
very dangerous for white people to expose them¬
selves to the sun, but still more so to the night
dews. Intemperance of every kind, especially
drunkenness, unfailingly exposes its victims to
great danger ; and it is in a great measure through
the want of proper precaution in this respect that
so many Europeans fall a sacrifice to the unhealthi-
ness of the climate.
The natural productions of Portuguese Guinea
abound according to the difference of soü, which
is in some parts argillaceous and very prolific,
and in others of a sandy and unproductive nature.
The dogged stupidity of the natives—^who are in a
CULTIVATION OF RICE.
249
very primitive state, and are wedded to their ancient
customs and modes of cultivation, from which it is
difficult to niove them—is a great drawback to im¬
proved cultivation.
The country contiguous to Bissao, Cachen, and
Zinqtiichor, is low and muddy, without mountains
and hills, and presenting no dry soil, with the ex¬
ception of some patches r^ing up here and there in
the centre of the rivers, and the sandy wastes on
the sea-shore. The people thereabouts devote
themselves almost exclusively to the cultivation of
rice and the rearing of cattle ; but the • Papéis
residing in the neighbourhood of Bissao and
Cachen, and the Banhuns near to the praesidium
of Zinquichor, cultivate some beans, paianco, and
fruit, for the consumption of these settlements.
The Portuguese who reside there confine their
attention principally to trade. They have merely
small kitchen-gardens for the supply of vegetables
for their own consumption.
At the time of my visit to Africa there were
some projects afloat for the improvement of the
rural districts, which I hope by this time have been
matured and fully developed.
The rice in general is of a dark colour, and has
by no means a prepossessing appearance, though it
has a pleasant taste ; however, there is an exception
in what is called the Gambia rice, which is pleasant
to the eye as well as to the palate. The dark,
common, cheap rice is called the Felupe rice. The
250
DRAINING AND IRRIGATION.
plant is first cultivated in nurseries, whence it is
removed to the bolenhas, or fields, in which it is
planted in furrows, opened with the adaha, a long
handled, semicircular wooden shovel, edged with
iron. The natives use it with great expertness,.
and dig twice as deep with it as .they would with a
common spade. These fields, when near to the
sea, are protected by high dykes of earth, stength-
ened by stakes, and are surrounded with deep
ditches, from which the water is conducted outside
by means of pipes made of the trunks of trees,
which in time of spring-tides are stopped up ; these
they call " bombas," or pumps.
When the tide is ebbiug they are opened, that
the ground may be drained of any water which
has forced its way in. However, with all
their precautions the spring-tides often force their
way through every barrier, and inundate the
bolenhas. Notwithstanding this drawback, how¬
ever, there is a very large production of small rice.
When first gathered it is quite white ; but tiie
Felupes have a strange custom, which appears to
arise from a provident motive, and is worth the
consideration of political economists : they preserve
one year's crop until that of the following year is
gathered in, and in the meantime spread the rice
on straw, in a loft over the place where they cook
their provisions, all the year round. There being
littie ventilation, I doubt not that it is the smoke
which gives the rice the yeUow colour it as-
FAßlM BICE.
251
sumes ; tliis process also no doubt preserves it from
\
insects. The rice of the Papéis Banhuns, and
Balantas, is similarly cultivated, but is not preserved
in the same manner. The former is sold at the
nominal price of I5. 9d. the arroba of 33 lbs., while
the latter obtains, as much as 2^. 9^. the arroba, of
32 lbs. Both are disposed of by barter, and
realize a profit of about 100 per cent.
The Farim rice is considered most valuable ; it is
also small, but white. The common rice is the
usual food of the inhabitants of Guinea : they use
it with pabn-oü, or the fat of bacon. Some
millions of poimds weight of this rice are e:^orted
annually, principally to the French settlement of
,Goree, whither it is conveyed in French vessels ;
some is also sent to the English settlements on the
Gambia ; and in case of a dearth at the Cape Verdes,
the rice of Guinea is their dernière ressource. The
rice most in demand for the English market is
what is called the Gambia rice : it is while, and
»milar in appearance to the Caroline rice ; and if
proper machinery were used, and it were husked in
a mill mstead of a mortar, would equal the latter
in appearance, as it does in flavour. There has
been an increasing demand for it, and a cultivation
commensurate with that demand for the last thirty
years ; and I have no doubt, now that par¬
ticular attention has been directed to Western
Africa and its capabilities, this wOl continue to
increase. The price it realizes is 55. Ad. for the
252
ARTICLES OF COMMERCE.
Portuguese arroba of 32 lbs. It is sold by barter,
and gives a profit of 100 per cent. The July moon
is the favourable season for sowing.
The cows and oxen of Portuguese Guinea are
very small, being even less than those at the Cape
Verdes, although they appear to be of the same
breed ; they are, however, very fat. The hides are
of a superior quality, and miich in demand among
the Portuguese, English, and French. They are
said to be peculiarly fit for covering trunks, &c. ;
the usual price is ^\d. per lb. They are given in
exchange for other goods ; the greater number
come from Geba and Farim.
Wax, ivory, tortoises, and dendem, or palm-oil,
form a large item in the trade of these people—alL
of which articles can be easily obtained in the
forests, where innumerable hives of bees are con¬
tinually preparing the wax. To secure this the
bees are expelled by women and children, who
throw fire at them to drive them from the hives,
and then rob them of their store. The honey, not
being so much in demand, is not considered so
valuable as the wax. The wax is brought to the
Portuguese settlements, where it is received in
exchange for various descriptions of goods; the
purchasers put it through a process called there
" calda pura," and, when cleansed and properly pre¬
pared, it assumes a yellow colour, similar to that of
the yolk of an egg. It is then bartered with
foreigners for other merchandise ; the usual price
obtained for it is 21^. for the arroba of 32 lbs.
GLUE OIL.
253
Ivory is also collected in the forests, being left
there by those who hunt the elephants, which come
down from the interior. The price varies accord¬
ing to the size of the tooth ; the one called the
"Marfim de Lei," or "lawful ivory"—i.e., large, or
of the best quality—^being sold for 35. ^\d. per lb.
The tortoise-shell is obtained from the islands of
Bijagoz. The palm-oil, called in the country the
red oil, is extracted from the dendem palm-tree, a
species found in great abundance along the regions
bordering the sea. It is principally purchased by
soap manufacturers and chennsts.
There is another production, called the glue oü,
which the negroes bring to market. It is extracted
from a description of the palm-tree, of which there
are large quantities in the territory. It is much
more suitable for burning in lamps than the cocoa-
oU. The fruit of this tree, called cola, or glue, they
chew, and are very fond of it ; and with the saliva
which it produces they smear their bodies, thus,
they say, preserving them from being annoyed by
mosquitoes: many other medicinal virtues, the
creation of their own superstition, are also attri¬
buted to it.
Some white cotton, which is collected from
the plants that grow spontaneously all over
that part of the country, is also brought to
market. This trade might be increased to an
indefinite extent, with comparatively little outlay.
A particular kind of incense or perfume, extracted
254
GOLD.
from a tree or shrub which grows there in abun¬
dance, is another valuable article of trade. An
alkaline salt, extracted from seaweed, is exposed
for sale at Cachen, and still more plentifully
at other places, particularly at Bissao. It is
sold cheap, and sent in large quantities to Geba
and Farim, where it is in great demand, not
only for home consumption, but also for exporta¬
tion.
There are also many persons who travel with
mèrchandise, which they exchange for native pro¬
duce. This they carry to the praesidiums, from
whence it is forwarded to Bissao and Cachen.
A great quantity of gold is now, as formerly,
brought to the English merchants of the Gambia
by the Mandingoes, and bartered for European
merchandise ; but so far as I can judge from the
prices obtained, there are other native commodities
which would pay better in the Lisbon market. If,
however, a factory were established at Geba, where
the Mandingoes could obtain an equivalent for
their gold, it would save them a journey of more
than 150 miles, which would be to them a great
consideration, as they would look upon Geba as
their home.
The Mandingoes also bring to market cotton
cloths and bands, the latter being used as small
change to purchase provisions, &c.
The country abounds with domestic fowls of a
small breed, which appears common to this pairt
BOTANY OF GUINEA.
255
the African continent. There are also what are
called coral geese, pigs, and oxen, but no estab¬
lished butchers' shops, so that the settlers must
alternately hill the animal and divide the meat, at
certain prices, which are paid in gold. The prices
in general are—^for a fowl, Sd. ; a goose, bd. ; pigs,
from 85. to 12ä., according to the size and weight ;
an ox, from I65. to 24s. ; but, considering the
profit put upon their goods by those who purchase
the food, the price paid for the articles may be
considered as but one-half the above. Eggs, fruit,
and miUet are sold at prices corresponding with
the above tariff.
On the verdant and fertile banks of the large
rivers of Guinea, ornamented with the mangue
trees, and in the dense forests and the numerous
cultivated fields, a naturalist would find ample
scope for indulging, to its frdlest extent, his love of
science; while he might cull suf5.cient information,
relating to a variety of imknown flowers, to afford
a delightful treat to the lovers of botany.
Some of the most remarkable of the botanical
productions are the following:—the wax-tree
(Parinarim Excelsum) which grows to a great size,
and in which the bees generally build their hives;
the bamboo, not unlike that of India, with a very
hard cane ; an enormous species of baobab (Adari'
sanm digUata) ; country gall ( Centaura Minor)^ which
covers the field—(by bcnling this plant with quick
grass and the pith of the papaya, a medicine much
256
TREES AND VEGETABLES.
used in fevers is obtained) ; the mangue, a descrip^
tion of willow, wbich grows on the banks of the
rivers, forms an impenetrable barrier ; the micheri
is a majestic tree, said never to be attacked by
worms, a circumstance which, if true, is well
worthy the attention of ship-builders and others ;
the monpataz produces a most delicious fruit, and has
some resemblance to the medlar-tree; the cola, or
glue palm-tree, before mentioned, producing the fruit
of that name, is something in appearance like the
chestnut; the palm-tree, producing the palm oil—^the
large palm-tree, from which is extracted the palm
wine—is, as I believe, the Elais Guineensis^ or incense
tree, from which is extracted a quantity of per¬
fume; the papaya is a tree which, as before
observed, they mix with the country gall for
medicine ; the poilao is a tree of very great dimen¬
sions, with thick foliage, of which the negroes make
their large canoes ; the fruit is like a calabash, and
contains the seed embedded in a downy substance,
called the wool of the poilao ; the sibe is a tree the
timber of which is used for roofing purposes ; from
the zimbro is extracted the gum arabic ; and the
coal wood tree is of a very hard substance, much
used in making palisades, &c.
Cabbage and lettuce are only found in the small
gardens of the Portuguese.
Respecting the mammalia of this part of the
country, there are large numbers of those common
to Africa. Of wüd beasts the buffaloes are the
ZOOLÖGY.
257
most numerous. The cachorrode mangue, the
mangue's little dog, is an animal about the size of
a cat ; it is of a black colour, with a rough skin
and a long bushy taü ; it lives on the mangue tree,
and if caught when young is easily tamed, and
becomes very useful as a rat-catcher ; the marine
horse, or hippopotamus, is celebrated for attacking
canoes in a body ; the fritamba is a species of the
family antilopidse ; the jaquindor, a large description
of rat, with very large ears, and very destructive.
There is also a species of orang-outang, and small
monkeys called fidalgos or nobles; the sim-sim,
which has a body resembling a gazelle, the head being
like that of the zebra, but wdth boms.
Of birds, the most remarkable are the ganga or
trumpeter bird (oiseau de trompette) ; the geme, a
large bird, of ugly appearance, with a very large
beak, which hangs down on the breast : it can fly
but a short distance, and is of a black colour, ex¬
cept under the tail, which conceals rich downy
feathers of a delicate white colour. It is purchased
by the French, who bring it to Europe, where they
obtain a high price for it : it is easily tamed. The
general is a beautiful little bird, of a scarlet colour,
with yellow wings ; it is a most melodious songster.
The jagudy, which is the same as that called at the
Cape Verdes Manoel lobo.
Of the reptilia there are large numbers of dif¬
ferent species—among which maybe mentioned
the boa-constrictor and the terrible cascavel ; thç
VOL. I. s
^58
DÍSECTS.
black and the blue cobra, the dark crocodile, &c.
In Guinea the insects are the same as those
found at the Cape Verdes, but in immense numbers.
The natives, to save themselves from annoyance,
wash their bodies with a lotion or decoction obtained
from certain plants, as before mentioned, as a pre¬
ventative, and also with the cola.
The insects most worthy of notice are the baga-
baga, which sweep along the fields like a torrent,
wasting and destroying aU within their reach—•
killing the domestic fowls, destroying the woods,
even the mud or earthen walls, and merchandise,
in fact, almost everything that comes in their way.
In January and February (just the time of my
first voyage), when the strong land breezes blow, it
is most astonishing to see the large quantities (rf
red locusts, almost the size of a sparrow, which come
from the interior. They have the appearance of
dense clouds, and, when coming between you and
the sun, obscure the light in a great degree. When
they alight they consume all vegetation which
comes in their way ; but fortunately, by the time
they make their appearance the rice is generally
gathered in and stored, so that it is principally the
straw of the rice-field which they devour.
There are large quantities of frogs in the rainy
season, but they are not injurious. The coast
abounds in fish of the same description as foimd at
the Cape Verdes. Large quantities of amber are
also collected on the sea-beach.
COMMERCE GE BTSSAO.
259
There are among the negroes some very good
carpenters, smiths, and potters. Their work is
in general strong, but rough ; the principal work
of the former is in shaping canoes out of the trunks
of trees, with an axe or adze.
The inhabitants of the towns have some slaves,
who work as carpenters or calkers. Some young
Grumetes were sent to the marine arsenal at Lisbon
to learn different trades, but they all died on their
return voyage home.
Bricklayers and tadors have of late been intro¬
duced into Cachen. Numbers of the negroes
manufacture coarse mats and baskets, called cofos,
which are much in demand. The Mandingoes tan
and prepare Morocco leather, which they manufac¬
ture into various articles.
The most recent returns of the commerce of
Bissao, to which we can at present refer, are those
for the first quarter of the year 1853. From these
we find that the value of the imports conveyed in
Spanish, Portuguese (colonial), French, and English
ships was 1264/. ; while the exports amounted to
3571/. It is to be observed, however, that in the
ports of Portuguese Guinea all the trade being of
permutation, the value of imports must approxi¬
mate to that of exports more than appears from the
above statement; for, in the first place, the imports
were valued at a very low price by the Custom
Houses, so that the real value must be considered
as three times the amount stated ; and, in the se-
s 2
260
EXPORTATIONS.
Cond place, the merchants of Bissao and Cachen
having always in store goods sent to them by the
mercantile houses of Gambia and Goree (of whom
they are the agents in Portuguese Guinea), the ships
arrive at the end of every quarter to take the charge
of their goods brought in the preceding one. For
this reason the value of the imports and exports
for a whole year cannot be inferred with any ac¬
curacy from that of a single quarter.
The annual exportations of Cachen and Zinqui-
chor respectively are not less than, for the former,
13,333/.; and for the latter, 10,000/. There
are about thirty or more English and French
sloops, which trade between Goree and the
Gambia, and which generally make two or three
regular voyages yearly.
261
CHAPTER VI.
Sierra Leone—Origin of the Name—^Insalubrity of the Climate—
Historical Notices—^The Eroomen—A Reverend Pilot—Appear¬
ance of Sierra Leone—^The Governor's Mansion—Refuge for Libe¬
rated Africans — Residence of the English Bishop—1 he Slave-
Trade—^The Lion Mountains—^Towns of Wellington and Kissey—
Cape Shilling—^Domestic Arrangements of the Dwelling-Houses—
Mosquitoes—Waterloo—A Missionary Service—^Education—Co¬
loured Teachers—^Attack of Fever—^Mountain Scenery—^Freetown
—The Legislative Council—Service at the Cathedral—Portuguese
and English Military Officers—Farewell Visit to the Governor—
British Policy in Sierra Leone—Opulence of several Liberated
Africans.
It was at daybreak when we discovered the
lofty range which gives its name to this British
colony, called by the English Sierra Leone, which
is situated in 8° 30' N. lat., and 13° 18' W. long.,
from Greenwich.
The name Sierra Leone, or lion's chain of
mountains—as Serra in Portuguese, and Sierra in
Spanish, both mean a saw—was originally given
262 MOUNTAINS OF SIERRA LEONE.
to this place in consequence of the serrated^ or in¬
dented, appearance of the mountains, when first
seen on approaching the mainland from the
sea.
The name of Leoa, or Leone (lions), is sup¬
posed to have been given in consequence of the
large number of those monarchs of the forest
roaming about when the place was first visited;
or, as some suppose, in consequence of the great
storms experienced here, during which the loud
reverberation of the peals of thunder, as it rings
through the mountains, resembles in some degree
the roaring of the lion. The former hypothesis
no doubt is the correct one. The early inhabi¬
tants of this country called it "Pomarong."
As we approached the land, we could cmly see
in the distance what appeared to be clouds; but
the experienced seamen informed us that these
were the mountains of Sierra Leone, which, as
we approached, became more distinct in their
outlines, presenting a sublime picture, which none
but those who have for some time beheld nothmg
but the monotonous level of the mighty deep can
duly appreciate. As we neared the mainland, we
could distinctly observe the beautiful verdure and
green foliage peculiar to tropical climates, reaching
from the base apparently to the summit of those
lofty mountains, which rise several thousand feet
above the level of the sea.
The climate is so unhealthy to Europeans and
DISCOVERY OF SIERRA LEONE. 26â
white men in general, that it has, not misappro^
•
priately, been termed "The white man's grave."
Notwithstanding this, and the impression naturally
engendered by it, I confess that—^whether the
desire might be considered suicidal or heroic—I
felt a degree of eagerness to visit the place. No
doubt, the reminiscence of former days, when it
was a Portuguese settlement, conduced in no small
degree to excite this feeling—for it was discovered
so early as 1447, by Alvaro Fernandez. It was
subsequently abandoned, in consequence of the un-
healthiness of the climate ; and, being bombarded
by the French, was brought to great straits. But
my principal anxiety was personally to witness the
working of the system of freedom in a British
colony, which is looked upon as the great empo¬
rium of emancipated Africans, and a city of refuge
for the poor slaves snatched from the fangs of those
ruthless dealers in human flesh and blood, the
African kidnappers. I say I felt a great desire to
witness the working of the system with regard to
these poor creatures, as I was going, deputed by
my sovereign, to be a guardian of their rights, and
to aid, by my feeble counsels—as Arbitrator to the
British and Portuguese mixed Commission at Lo-
anda—all measures calculated to check or suppress
that iniquitous and diabolical system, the African
slave-trade.
It is stated by Portuguese historians, that Alvaro
Fernandez, nephew of Joäo Gonçalves, Captain of
264
ALVARO FERNANDEZ.
Madeira, having discovered this part of the coiith
nent, in 1446, set sail with renewed enthusiasm in
1447 ; and having passed the Cape Verdes and
the Cabo dos Mastros, entered a river supposed to
be the Cace, where he captured a woman, and on
his return to the boat was wounded in the leg by
a poisoned arrow. He extracted, as he supposed^
the poison ; and, although wounded, prosecuted his
voyage until he arrived at a sandy point in the
direction of a large bay, about 330 miles from;
Cape Verde, supposed to be Furna de Santa Anna,:
about eight miles south of Sierra Leone ; but feel¬
ing in pain from his wound, he returned home to
Portugal, and was rewarded with the gift of 200
doublas, ancient Portuguese coin—100 from the
Infante D. Henrique, and 100 from the Infante D.
Pedro, who was then the regent of the king¬
dom.
I searched particularly for any vestiges of the
famous Castle of Mitombo, built at the port, and
mentioned by Pimentel in his writings ; but my re¬
searches were unsuccessful.
After entering the river, or Bay of Sagrin, the
channel continues to within about one mile from
the shore on the north. Beyond this there are
shoals up to where what may be caUed the true
north bank of the river rises from the water. The
south side is bordered with very high trees down to
the water, which gives it a very romantic appear¬
ance ; and, to add to the beauty of the scenery,
A REVEREND PILOT.
265
here and there are to be seen the huts of the libe¬
rated Africans, together with some more substantial
cottages, built in the European style, all surrounded
by various tropical productions.
We were soon visited by a canoe, rowed by two
Kroomen in a half-naked state. They belonged to a
nation of free blacks, almost all of whom are sea¬
men. Their home is at Krootown, from whence
they derive their name, which is a suburb of Free¬
town. They are the descendants of a people called
the Sistres Kroo, who inhabited a territory situated
in 4° 50' N. lat., and 8° 48' W. long., between the
Cape Mesurdo and Cape Palmas. In the canoe
was a man dressed in shirt, trousers, white jacket,
straw-hat, and shoes. I was ioformed that he was
The Rev. Pilot," which was subsequently ex¬
plained to mean that he followed the twofold pro¬
fession of priest and pilot, being, in this double
capacity, a guide both spiritual and temporal. Had
we been entering the haven of eternal rest we no
doubt would have been glad of his spiritual advice
and direction ; but on the present occasion we
availed ourselves of his terrestial, or, I should rather
say, aquatic, functions of pilot, to guide us into the
haven "where we would be." Notwithstanding
this consideration, perhaps the union of the two
offices was well suited for the guidance of Euro¬
peans first entering the " white man's grave."
When our Rev. pilot came on board, I was in the
act of requesting from him some information as to
266
BLACK LAUNDRESSES.
what hotel I could resort to, when we were inter¬
rupted by the vociferations of a number of females,
who had also boarded the steamer, and who, in
broken English, requested the passengers to read
some documents which they were exhibiting for
our enlightenment and edification. They reminded
their hearers of those worshippers of Baal who
expected to be heard for their loud speaking, or of
the vain repetitions of the Pharisees, who expected
to be heard for their much speaking. Jt was some
time before I could understand this display of
tongues, which was in every way worthy of Babel.
At length I made out that they were laundresses,
and that the documents they exhibited were nothing
more or less than recommendations received from
various captains and commanders of vessels, as to
their efficiency and honesty in their calliug.
After making our arrangements with these sable
ladies, who undertook to do for us what we could
not do for them, namely, to wash us white, I ac¬
companied the captain on a visit to the governor^
and also to the Brazilian consul, to solicit assistance
in facilitating the coaling, watering, and provision-^
ing of our vessel.
On our arrival at the quay, near to which I saw
what I believed to be the commissariat stores, the
custom-house; coal-magazine, &c., I was much
pleased at beholding, for the first time, some of the
black West-Indian regiment on guard, dressed in
red coats and accoutrements complete.
TEMPERATURE.
267
The heat, even at this hour (9 A.M.), was ex¬
cessive. The thermometer, as I was informed
(having twice visited Sierra Leone), generally
averages from 80° to 90°; indeed,^ I have found
other tropical climates I have visited much hotter.
We were very desirous of obtaining some horses or
vehicles to carry us to the governor's residence,
which is situated on what may be termed the lower
hill ; and above which, higher up on the Tower
Hill, are the barracks for the garrison. Our
principal object in desiring some conveyance was
to avoid the burning exhalations of the long,
sandy streets, up which we should have to toil
in our approach to the residence of the governor.
As we proceeded, we accosted an intelligent-look¬
ing black man, dressed in a kind of livery or
uniform, a blue coat and red collar, and bearing
a cane in his hand. We requested him to inform
us where we could be accommodated with some
description of locomotive. He. informed us he
was a policeman, and that it was in his power to
obtain for us a couple of horses! 'Whilst he was
away, we remained standing at the corner of a
large building with a square tower, and sur¬
rounded by an iron railing. It was the Anglican
cathedral of St. George, and the only one I met'
with on air the western coast of Africa. Having
waited some timé, and contemplated: the various
black figure passing and repassing, ;and listened
to the various descriptiobs of lingo used by each.
268
CHURCHES.
moralizing, also, upon what we saw and heard,
we were at length relieved by the approach of our
sable friend, the policeman, with the two horses,
which, we were subsequently told, belonged to,
and were kindly lent to us by, the respectable
Don Adolfo Guillemar de Aragon, now Consul-
general of Portugal at Sierra Leone. We now
proceeded towards our first destination, the Go¬
vernment-house on the hill. On our way we
observed that the cathedral was situated in the
best and most respectable district of the town,
looking towards the port in the fi-ont, and having
the hills in the background. On one side was a
large field, partly laid out in garden-ground, and
some cottages belonging to poor people; and, on
the right-hand side, Krootown, Soldiers' Town,.
&c. Amidst this populous district rises up an
elegant edifice, called Christ's Church, belonging
to the Protestant mission ; as also a chapel of the
Wesleyan society, which, as I was informed, pos¬
sessed also at the port a school-house, called
" King Tom's," the arrangements of which were
excellent. My informant was the Rev. Thomas
Devereux, an Irish Catholic clergyman, who had
visited the colony for the purpose of seeing how
it was conducted. As we rode along the red,
sandy streets, the turf and Bahama grass, neatly
kept, on both sides of the carriage-road, and the
white-washed cottages, had a very pleasing ap¬
pearance. There were also some very neat and
GOVEENMENT-HOUSE.
269
comfortable-looking houses ; but what particularly
attracted our attention was the residence of the
United States Consul» Mr» Ritchie, with the
American flag gracefully waving in the breeze ;
also the splendid mansion of Mr. De Guillemar,
of whom honourable mention has been already
made ; and another building, with a flag bear¬
ing the insignia of freemasonry. As we pro¬
ceeded we marked with interest the busy scene,
and viewed with pleasure the numerous shops
and warehouses, well supplied with all descrip¬
tions of merchandise, the property of black men,
whose clerks and shopmen were in attendance ;
and we said, " Here is another potent argument
against the degrading and demoralizing slave-
trade ; the industry and, in many cases, opulence
of these black traders fully demonstrate that they
possess aU the natural qualities requisite to raise
them in the scale of society."
At length we arrived at Government-house.
The approach is along a pleasant, green, shady
walk. As we drew near to the mansion, we saw
some of the black soldiers on guard, in the same
uniform as those we had observed on the quay.
We were soon introduced to his Excellency the
Governor, and found him to be a kind gentleman.
We understood that he had been resident at Sierra
Leone for a considerable time, having formerly
acted in the capacity of colonial secretary. Having
exchanged compliments, and conveyed those of
270
A HOSPITABLE INVITATION.
the Bishop of Angola to his Excellency, we with¬
drew.
On returning to the quay, I met with a young
gentleman, who introduced himself by stating that
he was Registrar to the Mixed Commissions estaba
lished at Sierra Leone, for the trial of vessels
captured as employed in the slave-trade ; and that,
having learned that an officer of a similar court
was on his way to Angola in the steamer, he had
been on board, and had just returned from the
ship, on learning that the object of his search was
on shore, and now requested from me the favour of
informing him where he could meet the Portu¬
guese arbitrator. When I informed him that I
was the person he was seeking, he very politely
invited me to his house. I apologized for
not accepting his kind offer, having before
arranged with an esteemed and learned friend,
who was my companion on the voyage, to stop
during our temporary stay at a lodging obtained
for us through our friend the Rev. pilot. Mr.
Weston-^for that was my polite friend's name—
then kindly invited me to dine with him, an offer
which I thankfully accepted. This kind gentle¬
man was soon afterwards appointed Arbitrator
to the Mixed Commission at Sierra Leone—^an
appointment which, I was happy to learn, was
soon afterwards confirmed by his government.
I had determined, during my short stay, to
inspect the various public departments, and my
ESTABLISHMENT EOR LIBEKATED AERICANS. 27 t
firsf visit was naturally to the large building ap¬
pointed for the accommodation of liberated Africans.
I am happy to say that it appeared to me to be
kept in the best order. There are extensive dor¬
mitories, capable of accommodating a great num¬
ber. One was set apart for the males ; another
for the females; one for children, and one for
women nursing babies. I visited the extensive
stores, magazines, pantries, kitchens, &c. ; as also
the school belonging to this establishment, and
found that everywhere the utmost attention was
bestowed on the promotion of the health and
comfort of the inmates, among whom, indeed,
good order and happiness seemed to prevail.
How did their present position contrast with the
destiny intended for them !—although the slave-
dealer endeavours to impress on the minds of
the poor captives that if they fall into the hands
of the white man on board the cruisers they will
bring them into the worst state of slavery, and
in some instances that they will eat them I In
confirmation of what he asserts, the slave-dealer
points to the black soldiers, whom he describes as
the white man's slaves ; and also to some degraded
wretches who, debased by drunkenness, laziness,
and licentiousness, occupy rude huts, and who, he
asserts, are left to starve. He also points to those
who have been transported to Fernando Po; but
it requires but little common sense to detect the
fallacy of such arguments, and that they are only
272
LIBERATED AFRICANS.
brought forward to answer his own selñsh ends, and
to make the poor captive hug his chains.
The liberated Africans dined on substantial food
from off clean tin plates and dishes. The day I
called their dinner was fish and rice, with millet,
mandioca, and inhame, seasoned with palm-oil and
sauces.
In the yard a gymnasium was erected for their
amusement. They have a large garden, planted
with shady trees, and a very large basin or bath,
into which the water from the river is introduced,
and where they can bathe and wash without any
fear of the sharks or other dangerous auimala.
There were at the time of my visit 400 liberated
Africans in the establishment ; and I was informed
that since its formation, on the suppression of the
slave-trade, 40,000 had at different times been ac¬
commodated. Numbers of the people, as I learned,
had been taken from places bordering on our Por¬
tuguese settlements, and some even from our colo¬
nies. I conversed with some of them, but found
their knowledge of the language very imperfect
They were informed of the position I was to occupy
at Angola, and they seemed pleased that their
feUow^ountry^man should be the black man's friend.
The brief and simple tale of their capture and con¬
sequent sufferings was very touching.
One of them had been at Sierra Leone for some
years, and had acquired some property. He had
received some education, and, as he informed me.
A SABLE pelloW-COtJNÏRYMAN.
tad also been resident in England for two years.
He first came from a country opposite Coriseo Is¬
land, where the Portuguese had a factory, the
original name of which was Cape Lopo Gonçalves,
but which is set down in the English maps as Cape
Lopez, a siiùilar error being committed in respect
to various places along the coast. The man
claimed me as a countryman, and was very kind
and attentive. He came one day to invite me to
his place in the country. I accepted the invitation,
although not without some misgivings that I might,
in my journey, meet with the. same disagreeable
companion, as did the disobedient prophet, or that
peradventure I might be exposed to the influence
of some malaria which might interfere with my
visit to Loanda ; but, after aU, these ideas were
only like the groundless fears of one of old, who
exclaimed, " There is a lion in the way." Prompted
therefore by strong curiosity, I set out under the
guidance of my sable friend. Our road lay to
the left of Tower HUI barracks. We passed the
place called Gibraltar, and Furra Bay, where some
Mahomedans reside. We passed a neat church at
Kissey Road, besides some chapels, one of which
my informed me belonged to the Catho¬
lics, although I must confess that it had little
pretensions to ecclesiastical architecture.
The most beautiftd building I saw was the resi¬
dence or palace of the Bishop of the English
Church at Furra Bay. The grounds surrounding
vol. i. t
274
THE PROTESTANT CHURCH.
it are well laid out, and planted with a number of
pabn and other trees ; and altogether it has a very
picturesque appearance. I was informed-by my
guide that the Bishop had a number of youths re¬
siding there, whom he was instructhlg for thd
purpose of forming a native ministry, and that
already some had been ordained and sent as mis¬
sionaries to their countr3nnen in the interior.
From aU I saw and heard while at Sierra Leone^
I came to the conclusion that the Protestant
Church has, with a most praiseworthy zeal, done all
that human ingenui^ could suggest for the amelio¬
ration of the temporal, and for the promotion of
the spiritual, condition of the liberated Africans.
The tale of woe which I have been told by many
respecting the state in which some of these poor
creatures were found, when liberated fi*om their
prison-holds, is sufficient to harrow up the feelings
of any person laying claim to humanily. The
subject has so often been exposed, that it is unne¬
cessary now to enter into detail ; suffice it to say
that the greatest barbarity is practised, by cram¬
ming them together in the holds of vessels, so as
to enable the speculators to pack the largest quaa*-
tity of human merchandise into the smallest poa^
sible compass.
When captured in slave Vei^els, they are in
general in a state Of nudity, often in a half-stalf^ed
state from the want of proper nourishment^ and
with a scanty supply of water. How vastjy
SLAVE VESSELS.
ferent from the manner in which the humane and
popular governor of this colony (Cape of Good
Hope), Sir George Grey, lately shipped some
horses from here to the seat of war in the
East.
Before the captives are embarked, they have to
travel in large companies from the interior, or from
a distant part of the coast to the slave mart—^yoked
together with a long chaLn, to which they are fas¬
tened in two rows, one at éach side. I was going
to say, not unlike the manner farmers of this
colony yoke their oxen—with this exception, that
whilst the trek'tow of the latter is composed of hides
of animals, the bond of union between the slaves is
composed of iron. When first met by the English
cruisers, and liberated from their dark and narrow
dungeon, they appear half dead and stupid through
continual want and confinement.
When the remnant of those first shipped are
landed at Sierra Leone, those who are the greatest
objects of commiseration, from their exhausted
state, are sent to the hospital at Kissey, the boys
to a normal school at that place, and the girls to a
school at Charlotte, founded, I think, by a respect¬
able female called Anna KiLhom, belonging to the
Society of Friends in England.
The face of the distant Lion Mountains in the
background was covered with dense groves of trees,
which would lead one to suppose that they would
Ibrm digible lodgings for King Leo. The trees, I
T 2
276
MAEKET OF FREEDOM.
was informed, abounded with every description of
monkeys, and other ^d animals. The base of the
mountains assumed a quite different appearance,
being covered with the banyan, palm, mango, and
other intertropical trees and plants. The ground
appears capable of high cultivation; but there
seems to be an ineradicable persuasion in the minds
of the people, that it is beneath the dignity of man
to engage in agricultural work, that being, in
their opinion, the legitimate duty of women and
slaves. They are, however, very fond of trade in
its various departments.
In Freetown there is a large market^ weU stocked
with commodities of such a varied description as to
prove much in favour of the great increase of
civilization, and the consequent wants created
thereby. There were also a great number of
itinerant venders, traversing the town at all
points, with various commodities, especially edibles.
Throughout the street, I heard everywhere the cries
of the women vending fooToo, or yams mashed^
agiddy, or maize gruel, khola-nuts, pepers, &c.
Many of the natives trade in gold dust, ivory,
gum, and various other articles brought from
the interior, as this is the great emporium, not only
for native, but also European produce.
We proceeded on our way through thickly-
wooded land, which, I was informed, was infested,
with numbers of reptiles, especially poisonous
serpents. Nature seems here to smile, although I
THE LION MOUNTAINIÍ,
277
believe the pernicious miasma arising from the
stagnant pools on the low grounds of Bolama, on
the opposite side of the river, often gives the deadly-
kiss of death.
The condition on which I accepted the invitation
of my coloured friend was that he should guide me
to the various places of interest within a reasonable
distance from our route, along this peninsula, which
extends for about twenty-five miles from east to
west, and ten miles broad from north to south,
containing, according to computation, about
55,000 inhabitants, of whom 3,000 reside at Free¬
town, the white population of the colony being
scarcely 100. As we ambled along, the beautiful
cotton-tree, with its rich foliage, was on one side
of the way, and on the other the palm-tree, with
its large leaves bending down, affording a delight¬
ful shade for the weary traveller from the burning
rays of the sun.
The summit of the Lion Mountains was sup^
posed by some to be beyond the reach of those
shafts of death which soinetimes here fly fast and
thick. I was informed that, sometime since, a
young man—I think his name was John Hooke,
Brazilian consul—had retired thither, in hopes of
avoiding' the baleful influence of disease ; but,
alas ! how futile are all human hopes and pur^
poses-—he, too, became a victim, and now lies in
the white maris grave.
We now continued our journey to Wellingtoii
278
CEMETERY OP KISSEY.
and Kissey : the former place is eight miles from
Freetown, at the foot of the mountains, and at a
short distance from the river. With the exception
of the churches, the schools, the clergyman's r^-
dence, and one or two other buildings, the appear¬
ance of the place did no great honour to the hermc
name by which it was called.
On our return to town from the residence of my
sable friend, we passed through the cemetery of
Kissey. It occupies a most conspicuous position,
being elevated, and having a pleasant green appear¬
ance. I inquired of my companion what place
it was ? With apparent emotion he informed me
it was the last resting-place of those who sacrificed
their lives for the sake of the poor liberated African.
By this I understood him to mean that it was the
burial-place of those missionaries who had died
here while endeavouring to impart instruction to
these sable sons of Ham ; and it must be admitted
that, widely as we may differ in religion (as I am
a Catholic), all must unite in honouring the memory
of those who leave their fatherland, their parents,
and their dearest relatives and friends, and, t^mg
their lives in their hands, brave the pestilential air
of Western Africa, from a sincere love of the
spiritual welfare of the despised, neglected, and
ignorant children of this far-distant land.
Having left the cemetery, we proceeded to the
town of Kissey, as 1 expressed a desire to viát the
normal schooL The localily is well chosen. The
RISSET. 279
ehurch, built of freestone, is a very pretty building;
and its hospital, erected on an eminence at some
distance, bas a most majestic appearance. Near
the banks of tbe river there is another small hospital
for lunatics. The land, as we proceeded towards
town, was stony, and in general it had a Y€3cy
barren appearance, and was very little under culti¬
vation. Indeed, it appeared as if the impression
was universal amongst the " black lords of crea¬
tion," that digging and delving were only ht for
" women and slaves." Notwithstanding the prefer¬
ence in general given by these people to mercantile
affairs, they cidtivate a quantity of maize, inhame,
mandioca (which is manufactured into bread by the
people), red pepper, arrowoot, and ginger. In
1851 were produced about 500 tons of gioger. The
colony also supplies teak-wood, palm-oil, gum copal,
some coffee ; and, in 1852, as I was informed, the
cotton exported amounted to nearly I0,0001bs.
I thought that, if the cotton and coffee plants
were extensively cultivated here, it would be found
a most lucrative peculation ; and would, in some
degrqß, aid the efforts of philanthropists in Europe,
by assisting to supply the home market, and thus
lessen the demand for the staple raised by slave
labour. " Knowledge," said the wise man, "puffeth
up." The truth of this I witnessed in some
inslBnces, of learned men who had been taught to
read and wiite, and who therefore prefer trading to
agriciitlture or field labour of any kind.
280
LOKO-TOWN.
From Kissey we turned off in another direction,
towards Cape Shilling, which is the most southern
point of Sierra Leone. Opposite to this lies, as
near as I could judge by my eye, about six or
seven miles distant, the Banana Islands, which. I
was informed were principally inhabited by tee-r
totaUers, who would not allow spirits to be. sold in
either of their two villages. Kent, is the name uf
the village at Cape Shilling. It is an agreeable
place; a church and clergyman's house are at
present in course of erection. My companion in¬
formed me that this place is considered the most
healthy of all the localities at Sierra Leone, for
which reason he had selected for his residence a
village at about one and a half hour's journey, called
Loko-town. As far as I could form any judg¬
ment, from a hasty consideration of the subject,
I should think that my black friend has drawn a
wrong conclusion, in supposing that the locality
is a most healthy one, as appearances are de¬
cidedly very much against it ; and against Tumbo
also, as the land in the immediate vicinity, and ex¬
tending northwards to Waterloo,* near the baae of
the mountains, is filled with stagnant pools, and
with dense forests of wood, infested with wild beasts.
On the whole, Loko-town presented to my mind
quite a different aspect to those towns inhabited by
the liberated Africans—^the residents being princi¬
pally composed of natives, who have obtained per¬
mission to locate here, with liberty to act as if iu
HTJÏS OF THE NATIVES. 281
tteîr own country of Landöro. They complaíned
much, however, of-bemg, troubled by predatory im
cursions froin their' neighbours) the Timnes, whose
residence, together with that of the Mende, can be
plainly seen from the top of some of the high hiUs
of the colony. Their houses (so-called) have a
blacfc ap^pearañce, are built of mud secured
with osier work (wattle and daub), with a roof
formed of the branches of trees, something after
the shape of a teiit, and descending outside to
within about two feet from the ground. These
dweUing-hotises are erected without any regard to
architectural design, and are in very deed of a non^
descript character. A mat is suspended before the
doorway, through which the smoke makes its egress,
and cold and wind make their ingress. There
appears to be a great contrast between the cottages
in this part of the colony and others I have seen ;
notwithstanding, there is room for improvement in
all.
On our way we stopped at a smaU farmhouse,
near to an extensive cane plantation ; and being
very thirsty from the intense heat, I requested a
drink of mdk, as I had seen around a number of
goats of a small size, and principally white. A
Mandingo informed me that this place was the pro¬
perty of a young mulatto lady, wife of the Queen's
Advocate. I thought how strange that this should
be the third time since my arrival that I was in-»
debted to the kind hospitality of this lady; for
282
AN AFRICAN SOIRÉE.
having, in company with a Portuguese, called on
the postmaster for a package, he kindly gave me a
present of newspapers, and further invited me and
my Portuguese friend to spend the evening at a
friend's house, an invitation which we thankfully
accepted.
We found a beautiful pavilion in the centre of
a lovely garden, handsomely decorated, and ele¬
gantly furnished with the greatest taste, and in the
most recent fashion. The elegant and accom¬
plished hostess was no other than the wife of the
Queen's Advocate, whose amiability, politeness, and
good breeding evinced an education of no ordi¬
nary standard. She played on the piano, and sang
exquisitely some English, French, and Italian airs.
Altogether I confess I was taken by surprise, not
expecting to enjoy with such delight an African
soirée. To this lady, therefore, the postmaster,
Major O'Connor, Mr. Weston, and the doctor of
the military hospital, I feel indebted, and shaU ever
retain a grateful remembrance of their kind en¬
deavours to impart pleasure to the wayfaring
stranger.
At the above-mentioned soirée I met a Colonel
in the British army, who informed me that he had
travelled as far into the interior of Africa as Tim-
buctoo, and had visited the Niger, &c.; that he
had published his travels, and was preparing for
the press another work, descriptive of a very in¬
teresting excursion which he had made. I much
A COUNTEY RESIDENCE.
283
regret that my imperfect knowledge of the English
language at the time makes me now unable to
record even his name.
But to proceed after this digression. My noble
friend and I, having refreshed ourselves at the
farm of the aforesaid lady, proceeded on our jour¬
ney. The sun had for some time gone down, when
we arrived at a sort of palisade, having a large
gate leading into an extensive yard. A woodeù
staircase led up to a verandah, erected in front of
a very neat and comfortable cottage, or country
residence. The furniture, however, was very plain
^—^being manufactured of cane, and covered with
the skins of beasts, and on the floor were spread
other beautiful skins of a large size. A deal table
was covered with a large red shawl, on which
stood a number of bottles, filled with various
liquors, and a number of glasses. My companion
gave full proof of his freedom of wiU and action,
by the manner in which he discussed the delicious
liquids before him. The bottles, &c., having been
removed, the ladies made their appearance, when I
was introduced to them. They were dressed in a
European African style, which savoured a good
deal of the ridiculous. When conversation com¬
menced, it was not difficult to discover that they
had been a long time from the boarding-school,
and that it was not long since they had been eman¬
cipated from their first masters; they were evi¬
dently willing to relinquish their freedom, by en-
284
A SLEEPLESS NIGHT.
tering the state of silken bondage whenever oppor-
tunity should serve.
The semi-barbarous supper being ended, and
feeling fatigued, I took the earliest opportunity of
withdrawing from the company of the fair seœ, to
seek refuge in oblivion. I therefore bade good¬
night, and withdrew to a small neat room, where
was a cane bed with two large cushions. There
was but one linen sheet, calico being usually used
in Africa, as it is considered best for absorbing the
perspiration, and preventing colds. Over the
sheets was a coverlet, in the shape of an oma-
mentéd mat. I soon laid me down to take re¬
freshing sleep ; but, alas ! I was wofuUy disap^
pointed, for scarcely had my light been extin¬
guished ere those musical phlebotomists, called
mosquitoes, accompanied by a few battalions of
small lizards, intruded their company, and sere¬
naded me all night, ever and anon drinkmg
my ill-health in libations of my own blood. Thé
watchman never looked out with more anxiety for
the morning than I did. I would gladly have
withdrawn from the unequal contest, but alas I I
had been deprived by boots of the means of escape ;
so there I had to lie, sigh, and endure until towards
dawn, when my tormentors were gorged, and had
gone to rest. Wearied by long endurance, I was
about to sink into soft slumber, when I was aroused
by the cruel kindness of a Mandingo, who came in
with the customary cup of coffee. This gave the
VILLAGE OF EMANCIPATED SLAVES. 285
coup de grace to all my hopes of sleep. I therefore
requested him to brihg my boots, and felt like a
liberated African, when, having escaped from my
tormentors, I stepped into the open air.
I improved the time by examining this village
of emancipated slaves. The streets are wide and
airy, with a row of neat cottages and huts on each
side, that look very clean. They are detached,
each having a small garden planted with trees,
forming a most agreeable shade, and stocked with
vegetables, &c. In the centre of a large place
stands the church, and opposite to it the school. I
had no opportunity of seeing the children, but met
a black priest, who kindly informed me that there
were forty-three scholars in the school. He said
that if I would but wait until Sunday I should
then have the opportunity of seeing and hearing
them, and that I should be delighted with their
vocal performances. He entertained me further
by relating various anecdotes connected with his
countrymen ; one in particular I beg to record, so
far as I can remember the particulars.
One of his countrymen, having been rescued
from the hold of a slave-ship, was brought to Sierra
Leone, where he was instructed in Christianity, and,
exhibiting some talent, was taken particular care
of. Being studious, he advanced so far in the
knowledge of Christianity that he was ordained
to the ministry, and sent as a missionary to Aku,
his native place, where he was instrumental in
286
BREAKFAST.
converting his own mother ; and after he had for
some time preached the Gospel to his countr3nnen,
most of them embraced Christianity. If what he
told me is true, it is a powerful argument in
favour of emancipating the slave.
Having returned to "mine host,*' a break¬
fast of tea was served up, with the usual accom"
paniments of milk and eggs, which is indeed a
luxury to seafarers. After the removal of the
cups, dishes of mandioca and inhame were intro¬
duced, as a substitute for bread. The inhame is,
in my opinion, superior in flavour to mandioca,
but both are disagreeable ; some which were boiled
I considered had much of the flavour of the sweet
potatoes I had eaten in Madeira. The ladies
pressed upon my acceptance something in the
shape of balls, not unlike dumplings, but which
they informed me were composed of palm oü and
fish, as also the latter being, as I was subse¬
quently informed, mandioca grated down and
boiled.
After breakfast we continued our excursion.
Our first visit was to Waterloo, where we saw the
best cultivated grounds of any I had yet met with
at Sierra Leone. There is an English clergyman
resident there, who does all that in him lies to
promote the cultivation of mind and soul, although,
as at Loko-town, Tumbo, and other places, the
majority of the inhabitants are ignorant of Chris¬
tianity, and unable to, comprehend the motivq
PROTESTANT MISSIONARIES. 287
which influences the missionary in selecting for his
residence a place which has been proverbially called
the d&oiVs dm. It is said to have been the spot
where formerly heathen rites were performed and
horrible sacrifices offered*
Having left Waterloo, we proceeded on our jour¬
ney, passing various villages of liberated Africans ;
and in less than four hours we arrived at Hastings,
where we halted* As I felt a little feverish—a sen¬
sation which seemed to increase at the idea that 1
should immediately be dosed with calomel, which,
as I was informed, was the practice at Sierra Leone
—asked for some quinine, Which was obtained
for me, as I was afterwards informed, from a Wes-
leyan minister who visited there, to whom I felt
grateful for his timely aid.
Next morning I was all right again, and went to
hear a lecture, as I supposed, by a Protestant mis¬
sionary. I was astonished to see such a number of
persons present, who attended the service on their
way to their various avocations* They sang and
prayed, after which the missionary proceeded with
the service catechetically, asking them various
questions from the Bible; and I confess I was
astonished at their great knowledge of the Scrip¬
tures* I only wish that their general conduct was
more in unison with the divine precepts • for I was
informed that some of them were very partial to
their heathen customs, especially polygamy, and
were iu other respects immoral. It is true, man
288
PRÓGKESS OÉ CIVILIZATIO«»
may give instruction, but he cannot give grace ; it
is not, therefore, the fault of the teachers that there
are black sheep among their flocks ; and I am sure,
from aU I heard, that those men who brave aU the
pestilential vapours of this deadly climate, for the
purpose of imparting spiritual instruction to the
benighted heathen, deserve well of their fellow-^
men. Their efforts are sanctioned and aided by
the Government. The influence of this united
effort was plainly descernible in the march of
intellect " amongst the Africans, I here met with
what may not inaptly be termed "black gentlemen,'*
who, with their families, are tolerably well educated
—and several black clergymen instructing their
countrymen around; some others are gone into
the interior for the same praiseworthy purpose.
In fact, every means that humanity can devise
has been resorted to for the amelioration of the
poor liberated African—churches and ministers,
schools and schoolmasters, Sunday-schools, &c,,
&c., aU forming a gigantic machinery tending to
raise them from darkness to light.
I was informed that there were more than 4,000
children, of both sexes, in daüy attendance at the
schools, independent of those at the bishop's semi¬
nary at Furra Bay, at the normal school at Kissey,
and at the female school at Charlotte ; and though
I lament that they are not of my own religion, I
must confess I am happy that their reliions in¬
struction has at least contributed to their civilization;
wealth, and happiness.
COLOUEBD tEACHBRS.
289
There are also at Freetown two establishments,
one for boys, another for girls, where the wealthy
mulattos and blacks obtain for their children an
education equal to that which they would receive
at many of the European seminaries. This is an
additional cause of the rapid increase of civilization
at Sierra Leone. Such are the advantages obtained
at the liberated African's home.
Those who were first, by the benevolence of
others, kindly received here, now offer an asylum
to aU their countrymen who are brought to this
colony under similar circumstances ; and, with a
most praiseworthy benevolence, the liberated
African, having received of their spiritual things,
liberally contributes to the support of their ministers
and schoolmasters.
I was informed by my guide that Hastings was a
mission station.
What particularly struck me was the zeal, and I
may say enthusiasm, which was displayed by the
coloured teachers for the purpose of enlightening
their countrymen ; and their success would be more
apparent if polygamy could be suppressed amongst
the people. That system appears, in my opinion,
to be a great obstacle ; and one which, I know from
experience in the Portuguese settlements, militates
against the most zealous efforts of the clergy to
bring those who live under it to a knowledge of
Christianily.
We proceeded along a pleasant broad road, to a
VOL. I. u
290
CHARLOTTE.
place (the name of which I now forget), until we ar¬
rived at a disagreeably steep ascent, along a stream
called Hogblook, or Hogbrook ; for I found that my
companion, in common with his countrymen, gene¬
rally pronounced the L as R.
Our journey now led through a large plain, well
cultivated, and very fertile, in consequence of a
river running through it ; and, at length, we
arrived at Charlotte, where a school is established
for girls, who, I was informed, may remain there
untU they are marriageable. T was further informed
that many of them are sent to instruct the ignorant
children of their countrymen. Having witnessed
the happiness evinced by these girls, we next pro¬
ceeded to view a large cataract, which, however, is
only seen to advantage in the rainy season. On
my second visit I did see it to advantage, as a large
body of water was then flowing down, causing a
most deafening noise. Leaving the waterfall, to the
left hand, we proceeded between the mountains,
where some cattle were browsing, to a Village called
Bathurst, where we were again rested in a small
hut, in the centre of a large field, by the border of
which the road passed.
I now again felt another attack of fever, but
again the missionary was as a ministering angel to
me ; for, on an application by my friend to him at
his residence on the opposite side of the field, I
received a specific, and was soon enabled not only
to gratify my curiosity visiting the church and
WILBERFORCB.
291
school, but also to acknowledge the benevolence of
the rev. gentleman who had so kindly and so
promptly ministered to my necessities. He ap¬
peared to me a very talented man, and his chief
aim seemed to be to bring the heathen from dark¬
ness to light ; and I was informed that his zeal was
crowned with signal success, he having been instru¬
mental in the conversion to his religion of large
numbers; indeed, his patience and perseverance
were most remarkable.
Notwithstanding the prompt relief I had obtained
from the attacks of fever, it was considered neces¬
sary for me to return directly to town. We could
therefore only pass through Gloucester. When
9
near to the church, I was compelled to leave my
horse, and enter into a carriage belonging to an
officer, who was also travelling on an excursion
to gratify his curiosity, and which had most oppor¬
tunely arrived.
The surrounding mountain scenery was most de¬
lightful. AVe proceeded along a good road for
some distance; and, having turned to the left,
entered a deep vaUey, through the centre of which
flows the stream Hogbrook; this we crossed at a place
called Regent, and in less than two hours arrived
at the village of Wilberforce, where my friend had
a brother. Here I was advised to remain until I
recovered my strength, as the air was good and the
situation healthy. Our journey had led us through
a narrow pass and bad road; but having once
u 2
292
MOUNTAIN SCENERY.
arrived at the mountain, on which the village is
situated, I was repaid for all my toil. The pano¬
ramic view is nlost delightful, and I again breathed
the most refreshing zephyrs. On the western side
lies the town ; beyond which, in the distance, are
seen the mountains of Tinmes and Mendes, between
which and the river are the pools and marshy
grounds of Bulama, which I consider, as before
stated, to be one of the principal sources of the
insalubrity of the country.
My friend and his brother made use of various
arguments for the purpose of persuading me to re¬
main here for at least a few days. But notwith¬
standing that I felt unwell, as Freetovro was only an
hour's ride from Wilberforce, I preferred to return
to my lodgings, where I could avail myself of the
advice of a clever Portuguese doctor, who had
accompanied us on our voyage. It was, however,
with much regret, and with feelings of unbounded
gratitude, that I left my coloured friend—feelings
which, at this distance of time, are still unimpaired,
when I think of the disinterested manner in which
his kindness was bestowed. I now say in all
sincerity, " May God reward him."
Having descended the mountain, I passed over a
large bridge, built of stone ; and, proceeding along
a very picturesque road, I at length arrived at the
capital I entered by a broad, long street, which
I should call Mandingoes' Street, from the large
number of thôse intelligent negroes who dii^ell
ARRIVAL AT FREETOWN
293
there, and who appeared to me quite as civilized as
the Boumus.
Having arrived at Freetown, I proceeded to my
lodging, where I met a lady from Demerara, who
had lately been at Paris, and who had evidently
received an excellent education. She informed me
that my friends were very uneasy at my protracted
absence, and that there were several letters waiting
my arrival. She introduced a young, pretty, and
interesting mulatto lady, with whom she was walk¬
ing, and whom I could claim as a countrywoman,
as she was the daughter of a Portuguese, who was
formerly a member of the British and Portuguese
Mixed Commission at Sierra Leone. She was
familiar with the Portuguese and Mandingo lan¬
guages. I found also a note from the Bishop of
Angola and Congo, informing me that it was his
desire to come on shore, in consequence of not feel¬
ing very well, and in hopes that a visit to the land
might conduce to the re-establishment of his health.
I went immediately to the Brazilian consul, to
consult with him respecting the means of convey¬
ance on shore, and temporary accommodation for
my reverend friend ; and through the kind inter¬
position of the consul, I was enabled to obtain all
that I required for the convenience and comfort of
the bishop.
As soon as I found myself disengaged, I again
went out to see some portions of the town which I
had not before visited. The commissariat, the
294
THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL.
arsenal, police-office, custom-house, the steamers'
coal stores, the government provision and ammuni¬
tion stores—all appeared in most efficient order,
according to their respective departments.
In my round, having called on Mr. Weston, I
was enabled to inspect more closely the chambers
of the Mixed Commission. It is a good building,
having a large room set apart as a court-room, with a
separate office or chamber for each conunissioner
belonging to the respective nations. There is also
an apartment for the archives, and a good library,
which is under the care of the registrar, who has
a very comfortable suit of apartments for his own
accommodation.
I was informed by the governor that there was a
large quantity of Portuguese colonial coins, which
had been obtained from the slavers captured, and
which might be made available to both nations in
commercial transactions.
As far as I could ascertain, the legislative councU
was somewhat similarly organized to that which
was established at the Gape of Good Hope, pre-*
viously to the creation of the Legislative Council
and Assembly, which now manages the affairs of
the last named colony.
This Sierra Leone legislature, as I was informed,
is composed of the governor, chief justice, the
bishop, the Queen's advocate, and the colonial
secretary, as ex-offbcio members, assisted by two or
three gentlenien ; but whether elected or appointed
THE CATHEDRAL.
295
by the governor, or by the crown, I am not
aware. Their power, I was told, was both legisla¬
tive and executive.
The heads of the various public departments
were the police magistrate, a government store¬
keeper, a surveyor-general, a superintendent-gene¬
ral of public works, a collector of customs, and a
colonial surgeon, from whom I received the most
marked attention at his own residence. This
gentleman also took me to see the military hospital
under his superintendence, which was in the most
perfect order, evincing the usual care taken for the
comfort of the British soldiers.
On Sunday a number of my fellow-passengers
came on shore, and, although Catholics, resolved
to hear service at the cathedral. This is a spacious
edifice, pewed off on either side, having a wide
passage in the centre. Near to the pulpit is a
large pew, for the accommodation of the Governor
and his suite. The soldiers sat on forms, and their
officers on chairs. Perceiving that we were stran¬
gers from the Portuguese man-of-war, we were po¬
litely accommodated with comfortable seats. I
was much pleased to hear the choir of black youths,
who executed their parts in a very creditable man¬
ner. The sermon was by a black priest, who de¬
livered himself with much fluency and evident
learning.
After service I was requested to introduce to the
English officers the military gentlemen of our
296 HOSPITALITY OF ENGLISH OFFICERS.
company, amongst whom were Major Cunha, pro¬
ceeding to Loanda to take command of the regular
infantry battalion, Captain Feio, Aide-de-camp to
General Viscount Pinheiro, Governor-general of
Angola.
We next proceeded to inspect the various ceno¬
taphs, erected in commemoration of those who had
come from afar to fall into the white marHs grave.
Next morning while at breakfast, in company
with the bishop. Major Cunha, and Captain Feio,
the servant announced the arrival of some English
officers, who came, they said, to présent their com¬
pliments to our prelate, and again to see their Por¬
tuguese companions in arms, and their humble
servant, the author. When they withdrew we all
felt regret at their short stay, as their polite man¬
ners and amiable conversation were most pleasing.
The following morning we arranged to return
the kind visit; and accordingly, at 11 A.M., we pro¬
ceeded to the Tower-hill barracks, situated on the
summit of a high hiU, which commands the town
below. We aU enjoyed the visit. The situation, I
should think, is a healthy one, and the coup d'oeil
sublime.
On our return to town, the officers insisted on
providing us with horses, a kindness which was
appreciated the more on account of the difficulty
and fatigue experienced in our ascent, the road
being formed of loose, red, sandy soil, without any
shelter except two or three trees near to the bar-
VISIT TO THE GOVEKNOR.
297
racks, under which we were glad to take refuge, to
rest after our journey, the day being very
hot.
Having taken leave of our kind friends, we went
to pay a visit to the Governor at Government
House. In the distance it reminds one of those
old baronial castles inhabited by the feudal lords
in olden times. The barracks also have, when
viewed at a distance, something of the appearance
of a citadel.
When we arrived, his Excellency received us
with his wonted urbanity, and" introduced us to his
lady. Leading us through the suite of apartments,
he conducted us to the gardens, and shewed us
those attentions which betoken an educated gen¬
tleman. I have been given to understand that
this officer has subsequently been appointed Go¬
vernor of South Australia, but I cannot vouch for
the accuracy of my information ; all I can say is,
that he manifested that kindness towards strangers
which proves the genuine gentleman, and I was
informed he was held in high estimation by
aU.
A number of our lady-passengers having come
on shore, I was appointed to the honourable situa¬
tion of dragoman, to acknowledge the sense of the
honour and kindness conferred on them by a lady-
resident at Freetown, who had invited them to a
soirée. During our interview, this lady promised,
accompanied by all the other ladies of the town,
298
THE GAEEISON.
to visit the ladies on board the Portuguese man-of-
war ; and understanding, from the surprise apparent
in our gesture, that we were fearful of not having
sufficient accommodation for aU, she endeavoured
to relieve our embarrassment by saying, " Oh I you
need not be alarmed or frightened at encountering
such a host ; perhaps we are, after all, fewer in
number than those on board your man-of-war."
Some of the comparatively few white people resi¬
dent here are Frenchwomen from Goree, or from
the island of St. Louis, who have charge of those
neat shops seen in the streets at Sierra Leone.
Except the military and a few officials, there is a
paucity of white inhabitants, a number of public
offices being filled by mulattos. The hotels are
generally kept by Frenchmen.
Major O'Connor, who, as I am informed, is now
Colonel and Governor of Gambia, invited the Por¬
tuguese bishop to dinner, together with the officers
of the steamer and a number of the passengers.
He kindly sent horses, gigs, and carriages to convey
us to the barracks ; but when we arrived at the
Brazilian Consul's house, appointed for rendezvous,
the bishop preferred walking the remainder of
the way, and we therefore aU agreed to escort him
in like manner.
When we reached the barracks, the troops were
going through their various evolutions. The gar¬
rison was composed of detachments of three West
Indian regiments, and numbered about 300. Many
NATIVE VOLUNTEERS.
299
of them were volunteers, who entered the service
soon after their liberation from the hold of the
slave-ships, desirous of manifesting their gratitude to
and zeal for their liberators. I was also informed
that numbers of the negroes, influenced by the
same feeliug towards their Dutch masters at Acora,
had volunteered to go to the island of Java.
I consider that the English Government hâve, in
this respect, manifested the soundest policy; for,
accordmg to the old adage, one voluriieer is heiter
than ten pressed men ; so I look upon the present
plan of employing native volunteers as better than
the compulsory service before extorted from con¬
victs, who were continually decimated by the per¬
nicious climate in which they were compelled to
serve ; and being sentenced to perpetual banish¬
ment from their fatherland, they were reckless, and
preferred " a short life and a merry one," to the
prospect of continued compulsory servitude.
The success of the British policy in this respect
suggests to us how advisable it would be for the
Portuguese Government to imitate their allies, the
British, and employ native soldiers in the islands of
St. Thome, Prince, and the Cape Verde. So far as
I could discover, the natives are willing and
capable of serving our possessions either in Africa
or elsewhere.
The garrison was officered by Europeans, as was
manifest in the order and discipline of the troops,
who appeared to me to approximate to those of
300
THE GARRISON DOCTOR
European regiments. Their barracks were kept in
excellent order, as to the general arrangement of
quarters, eleanliness, and comfort. They had their
iron bedsteads and blankets, and all their arrange¬
ments were uniformly excellent. When we visited
them, they all had on full dress.
An excellent dinner was prepared, before which
the bishop said grace in Latin, as he considered it
would be better understood by the English officers
than Portuguese. The prayer was such that all
Christians, of every sect and party, could say Amen.
After dinner Major O'Connor invited the bishop.
Major Cunha, Captain Feio, and myself, to accom¬
pany him to his apartments, where we were served
with coffee; after which we returned to the quarters
of the garrison doctor, where we rejoined our com¬
panions.
The doctor was a most accomplished gentleman,
speaking several languages ; and a proficient in
music, playing on several instruments. He had a
very curious museum ; and amongst his collection
was a remarkable-looking monkey, brought from
Kooma, near Timbuctoo. It had a face like an
old woman, and a hairy skin ; it was of the chim¬
panzee tribe. There were also two large live snakes.
To Major O'Connor I am indebted, not only for
the personal attention received, but also^ for the
kind manner in which he spoke of my father, as
a man who had done so much for the welfare of his
country.
TRADE OF SIERRA LEONE.
301
Next day I and my Portuguese fellow-passengers
had the pleasure of entertaining our very kind
friends at diniier at the French hotel.
Everything was served in good style by our
Maître d'Hôtel ; and we admired not only the man¬
ner in which everything was got up, but also the
style of furniture, w^hich bespoke a degree of
civilization unlooked for and unexpected here.
I have repeatedly had occasion to wonder at the
comfort and, in some instances, opulence by which
some of those liberated Africans were surrounded ;
three or four having respectable commercial houses;
and in one shop I met a black gentleman, who,
having been at Paris, spoke good French. These
are facts which speak for themselves.
The goods imported into Sierra Leone, I was
given to understand, pay a duty of five per cent.,
ad valorem^ on the invoice price to purchasers.
Exported goods were charged 6s. per ton; the
anchorage is 50^. per voyage, and for pilots 6s. for
every foot of water the ship draws.
Tl^ time generally selected by vessels for trading
along this coast, as safest (in consequence of the
cessation of the south-west winds), is from October
to May. An extensive trade is carried on in fish,
which realizes between 6,000Z. and 7,000/. per
annum.
Having made all necessary arrangements, we
took leave of our kind friends, and proceeded on
our voyage along the coast of Guinea.
302
CHAPTER VIL
Coast of Guinea—^Terrific Thunderstorm—^The Windy Season—Mon¬
rovia—Formation of the Liberian Republic—^President Roberts—
Appearance of Monrovia—Character of the Eroomen—Trade of
the District—^Dixcove—St. Jorge da Mina—Dutch Settlements on
the Coast of Guinea—^Discovery of Gold—^History of Femao
Gomes—Cape Coast Castle—^The Ashantees—Governor M'Lean—
Cacaracu—Manufeuïture of Palm Oil—^Ajuda—^Efforts to Prevent
the Slave-Trade on the Coast—Native Customs—^The Avoga of the
Whites—^Deq)otic Power of the King of Dahomé—The Market
of Calamina—Appearance of the Dahomés—^Productions of the
Country.
Having " got up our steam," we were soon under
weigh, and the lofty mountains of Sierra Leone
gradually became more indistinct, until they ap¬
peared as so many " fog banks," or " clouds looming
in the distance." The land breeze was fresh and
cool as we steamed down the coast ~to the south.
To aid the steam power, our captain spread the
canvas to the breeze, which greatly increased our
speed. At the same time, we kept a good look^^t
TERRIFIC THUNDERSTORM.
303
for those extensive and dangerous shoals called
" St. Anna's banks." Meanwhile the breeze fresh¬
ened, until at length we were visited by a succession
of squalls, which continued until the morning, when
we witnessed one of those terrific thunderstorms
for which this latitude is proverbial ; it did in very
deed sound like a number of hungry, roaring lions
seeking to devour. It was awfully grand, while
at the same time it was fearfuUy terrific, at least to
a landsman unused to such scenes. The clouds
were so dense that it became quite dark aU around,
except when, ever and anon, the thick gloom was
illumined by the vivid glare of the forked lightning,
threatening destruction to our ship ; while the dash¬
ing of the infuriated water against the vessel, the
whistling and rattling of the rigging and sails, united
with the roar of Heaven's artillery, and the rushing
sound of the rain, which feU as from a water^spout,
formed altogether a crash of sound indescribable
by the pen. Truly, they who go down to the sea
in ships, and do business in the great waters, these
men see the works of the Lord, and His wonders
in the deep. A man placed in such circumstances,
and a witness of such scenes, is forced to reflect and
moralize. When the Most High thus shows His
power, man is convinced of his own impotency.
Some term these tempests " tornadoes," which I
consider to be a perversion of the Portuguese
word, "trovoada" (thunder-storms).
At Sierra Leone, and in these latitudes, there is
304
THE HAEMATTAN,
also what is termed a "windy season," which
generally prevails in January, and is called
" Harmattan/' During this time there is a great
drought, not even dew falls, and the consequence
is the destruction of vegetable life ; and, although
it is said to be favourable to the sick, it is a very
disagreeable season. It is generally accompanied
by a dense fog, which has a most unpleasant smell
—something between that of Hme and sulphur;
and quantities of fine sand are blown about, and
forced into every chink and crevice by the wind.
Passing the Banana and Sherbro Islands, and
Cape Mount, formerly the residence of the famous
slave-trader. Canot, we approached Cape Mesurado,
where, on the river St. Paul, is situated (6° 22' lat.
N., and 10° 38' long. W.) Monrovia,* the capital of
the Liberian Eepublic, containing about 2,500
inhabitants.
This colony was commenced in 1820, and popu¬
lated from America, which sent there about 6,000
mulatto and negro emigrants. The colonists
have subsequently been increased to about double
that number.
Independent of the above, there are upwards of
300,000 natives, who have lately come under the
protection of the commonwealth.
This modem republic embraces an extent of
territory stretching from Sierra Leone on the north,
♦ So called in honour of President Munro, a great benefactor ofthe
colony.
LIBERIAS REPUBLIC.
805
to Cape Palmas on the south, being about 500
miles ; but it is only about forty miles in breadth.
It is yearly rising in importance ; villages are con¬
tinually being formed, and trade is carried on with
other places on the coast, by means of small vessels
plying backwards and forwards.
The formation of this remarkable republic was
originally an experiment of some philanthropic
gentlemen connected with the American Anti-
slavery Society of Wilberforce and Glarkson—
names which deserve to be written in letters of
gold^—^names which shall continue to be the most
endeared of all their household words to the libe¬
rated Africans.
The first batch of free emigrants, consisting of
thirty families, and numbering eighty-nine indi¬
viduals, sailed from New York, in Feb. 1820.
As is usual', the first settlers experienced great
privations and distress. A lieutenant belonging to.
the American navy, and some other white people,
who were sent to organize the republic, were seized
with fever and died. It was therefore supposed
that the underiakiiig would have to be relinquished,
when four gentlemen, two of whom were clergy¬
men, and another, a brother of one of those who
had died, volunteered to continue the work thus
inauspiciously begun.
Their first government was very simple. The
colonization society appointed their agent. The
VOL. I. X
306
THE EIRST GOVERNOR.
colonists elected an assistant, a registrar, two advo¬
cates, and a sheriff.
Their increase in civilization is evident from the
fact of their having no fewer than ten schools,
a post-office — the head of this department also
acting as colonial secretary — several printing-
presses and newspapers, the oldest of which is the
Liberian Herald^2¡\ño a large number of churches
and chapels.
The first governor was Mr. Buchanan, a white
man. He was succeeded in that office by Mr.
Roberts, a man of colour, who, by his talents,
proved himself capable of governing.
In 1848 Mr. Roberts visited the United States,
to plead on behalf of his countrymen. From
thence he proceeded to England with the same
object. Here he was so fortunate as to secure the
co-operation of some philanthropic gentlemen,
amongst whom were the Bishop of London and
Mr. Gumey, the latter of whom became responsi¬
ble for the payment of 1,000Z. towards the purchase
of the Gallinas territory, which Mr. Roberts said
he thought might be obtained for about 2,000/. ;
and which, if once in their possession, would prove
a death-blow to the slave-trade on that part of the
coast. Gallinas being considered the stronghold of
slavery. Its factories were attacked sevrai years
ago by Captain Denman, of the Britiiffi , ;
and' again, in 1849, by Commander Dunlop, of
H. B. M.'s ship " Alert," on which latter occasion
PRESIDENT ROBERTS.
307
12,000 slaves were liberated and conveyed thence
to Sierra Leone.
While in Europe, President Roberts attended
the Peace Congress held in Belgium, on which
occasion he made a speech which was much
admired.
Having accomplished his mission in Europe, in
December, 1848, he was conveyed back to Liberia
in H. B. M's. ship " Amazon." The result of this
mission was the annexation of about 700 miles to
the territory of the Republic.
He subsequently paid a second visit to England,
in May, 1852, in order to arrange some matters of
importance connected with this infant state, which,
having accomplished, he returned to Liberia, in
Nov., 1852, the honour of being conveyed thither
in one of H. B. M's. ships, the " Dee," being again
accorded to him.
President Roberts is represented not only as a
clever statesman, but also as a valiant and successful
general.
The Republic is protected-by the united powers
of 'Great Britain, France, and America, the govern¬
ments of these countries vying with each other in
their encouragement of their protégé.
The rise of this colony proves that man, no
matter what the colour of his skin, when endowed
with reason, is, by moral culture, capable of being
raised in the scale of society, and of reflecting the
rays of divine light imparted to him by that Su-
X 2
308 SETTA EHOO.
preme Being who has made of one blood aU
nations that dwell upon the earth.
On approaching the land, Cape Mount, which is
about 1,000 feet high, and Cape Mesurado, which
is about 250 feet above the level of the sea, are
the first objects which attract your attention.
The architecture of Monrovia, which stands on
an eminence, does not present anything attractive
to the stranger, with the exception of the public
buddings—such as the church, the assembly-house,
the president's house, the hotel, etc. The gardens
are very neatly laid out, and ornamented with a
great variety of very beautiful flowers.
The principal places along the coast, from Mon¬
rovia to Cape Palmas, are Great Bassa, Littie
Bassa, New Cestos, Sanguin, and Settra Kroo ; the
inhabitants of the last-named place appear to be of
a superior order of blacks, loving freedom, and
preferring death to bondage. In consequence of
the determined opposition they have shewn to the
slave-traders, they are seldom molested.
Their country is very extensive; and as large
numbers of them are expert fishermen, and habitu¬
ated to the sea, they often provide the navy and
merchantmen with seamen. Their efficiency was
evident, from the aid they afforded the men belong¬
ing to our steamer, which took some of these Kroo-
men on board. Another sign of superior civiliza«
tion is the tranquilUly which pervades the town
during the night, in marked contrast to the
ESOOMÜK. B09
uproarious bustle and savage merry-making which
goes on among the inhabitants of some of the
native towns we visited, in which the night is
generally spent in riot and debauchery.
As far as I can judge, the Kroomen require to
be treated with great judgment, as they are very
prone to retaliation when they receive real or ima-
ginaiy insult. It is advisable that, before em¬
ploying them, they should be required to produce
their recommendatory documents. , Our captain
adopted a plan which, no doubt, is that generally
practised by aU requiring their services—^that of
appointing as captain or superintendent over the
others the one who is possessed of the highest
credentials, who is generally capable of managing
his fellow-Kroomen better than any stranger.
These captains are held responsible for the good
conduct of the men under them.
When the Kroomen have completed the service
in which they have been engaged, they generally
purchase clothes, beads, and other ornaments for
their wives, who remain at home to cultivate the
soil, and to attend to their domestic wants.
The trade carried on by the captains of vessels
with the natives is mostiy by barter, and the latter
getierally engage to have the stipulated produce
forthcoming at a certain day ; but in the perfor¬
mance of this promise they generally fail, to thé
great annoyance of those who have been in treaty
with them.
310
COMMERCIAL CUSTOMS.
Custom is paid to the native chiefs or princes
generally in the form of presents, which are made
according to the extent or value of the cargo re¬
quired.
The produce obtainable on this coast is ginger,
mendobi—^the fruit of a palm-tree so called—pabn
oil, ivory, camwood, and malaguetta, or Indian
pepper, or grain, from the latter of which the
coast takes its name (Grain Coast), an^ in which
an extensive trade is carried on with the United
States.
Along the coast, as far as C^pe Lahou, the
medium of commerce is the harra, or bar, which is
about the value of one half a Spanish dollar ; and
mercantile transactions are generally regulated by
this standard.
Their measure of capacity is called kroo, and
varies according to the description of goods sold.
Thus a kroo of palm oil is about four gallons
English, or thirty pounds weight ; whilst a kroo of
rice is only twenty-five pounds—a fact which makes
it requisite for captains of vessels and general
traders to look sharp after their interests.
Having doubled Cape Palmas, we were advised
not to approach too near the land at Cape Lahou,
so as to avoid encountering the numerous canoes
which generally come out from St. André, and,
which being well manned, prove very formidable
to small vessels, which, under such circumstances,
have not unfrequently been plundered.
SAMA.
311
Having passed Jaque liàhou and Jaque Jaque,
we arrived at the French settlements of Grand
Bassam and Assoie, situated at the mouths of rivers
of the same names ; but here the French monopolize
the trade, which is principally in gold dust, and is
extensive.
About fifteen miles before we doubled Cape
Tres Pontas, or the Three Points, we passed the
small Dutch fort of Axim, formerly belonging to
the Portuguese ; and we saw in the distance the
fort and town of Dixcove, an English settlement on
the gold coast.
I regretted not having an opportunity of going
on shore and visiting Sama, which lies between the
small forts and villages of Sacondy and Commendo.
I should have liked to visit the place, because it
was here that the Portuguese, in 1471, first dis¬
covered that trade in gold could be carried on with
the natives ; hence the name, " Costa da Mina,*' or
the Gold Coast. I could also have visited the
castle and town of St. Jorge da Mina, or El-Mina,
the largest European settlement on that coast, of
which we soon afterwards came in sight, ¿n 5® 5'
lat. N., and 1° 20' long. W.
It is a Dutch fortress, and the capital of the
possessions of Holland on that coast. It is built on
an elevated rock, with, strong walls, and mounts
sixty guns, which are of brass, and of lárge calibre.
Some, are pointed towards the sea, and some inland
to protect the town and fortress in the vicinity.
312
ST. JORQE DA MINA.
The scene altogether is a most pleasing one/as it is
well wooded with large trees, which grow down to
the water's edge.
Factories are established here for the gold trade,
which is carried on with the interior. Some of the
traders come from Coomassie, the capital of
Ashantee; and others even from Kong and the
Kong mountains.
The garrison is composed of white, mulatto, and
black soldiers, amounting to 200. They are well
disciplined, and wear a neat uniform, to which the
coloured population are very partial—so that there
is no difficulty in obtaining recruits when required
for Java or elsewhere.
The Governor is a colonel, or lieutenant-colonel,
of the Dutch European army. He is assisted by a
secretary, a storekeeper, a collector of customs, a
surgeon, and a chaplain. The revenue is calculated
at about 2,800Z., while- the annual expenditure
amounts to 7,280/. A great reduction in the
revenue is to be attributed to the wars in the
interior, which prove greatly injurious to trade.
I understand that this settlement is assisted from
the treasury of the East Indian possessions of
Holland ; for, although the appointments are not
numerous, those in office are munificently paid.
The population of the Dutch settlements on the
coast of Guinea is calculated at about 100,000,
and the extent of territory at about 5,000 square
miles.
ODALISCAS.
313
In consequence of the insalubrity of the climate,
there are no white women resident at St. Jorge
da Mina ; and it is still more injurious to the health
of white children. But you meet with some hand¬
some young " Juffrouws," or mistresses, of twelve
or thirteen years old, with interesting babies in their
arms; while others, though only twenty-five or
thirty years of age, appear quite advanced in years.
Such is the influence of the^ climate—an early
maturity, and an early decay !
Numbers of these young women are kept in
comfortable circumstances by their " Baas," to
whom they appear much attached. They and their
children are apparently taken great care of, and in
return they pay every attention to the household
affairs and to the trading interests of "Myn¬
heer." They all bear the name of their respective
masters.
The rich merchants live in great style and
luxury ; their tables may be said to " groan " with
the good things heaped upon them ; they also ap¬
pear partial to stimulants, of which they have a
great variety. After dinner they smoke and drink
coffee, mixed with various kinds of liqueurs, while
the odaliscas amuse their masters with songs, music,
and dancing. I have no doubt that this kind of
fast living hastens many to a premature grave.
There are various interesting circumstances con¬
nected with the original discovery and the trade in
gold on this coast, which are worthy of note.
314
FERNAO GOMES.
Fernâo Gomes, a wealthy and honest citizen of
Lisbon, obtained from the Portuguese government,
1471, permission to trade on these coasts for five
years, with this proviso: that he.should pay to the
Portuguese government the annual sum of 44Z. 9ä. ;
also that he should make annual voyages of dis¬
covery from Sierra Leone along the coast to the
distance of 300 miles ; so that, at the expiration of
the stipulated period of five years, 1,500 miles
should have been explored. In consequence of
this agreement, El-Mina was discovered, and also
Cape Catherina, in 1° 50' S. lat., and 9° 2' W.
long. ; the latter place being first visited by Ruy
de Sequeira on the 25th of November, St. Catherine's
day-
The residue of Femao Gomes' history is wrapped
in mystery ; the last thing known of him is that in
company with another adventurer, Joâo Affonso
do Estreito, he sailed from Madeira in 1486, with
two ships, for the purpose of finding the far-famed
fabulous " Ilha das sete de Cidadeo," or Island of
Seven Towns.
During the usurpation of Spain, the Dutch at¬
tacked and took possession of the castle and town
of St. Jorge:
At El-Mina the anchorage dues are twelve
Spanish dollars each voyage. There are no im¬
port or export duties.
Seven miles below El-Mina is the important
British fortress of Cape Coast Castle, which is
Cape Coast Castle.
CAPE COAST CASTLE.
315
situated on a high rock, and has a new, strong, and
beautiful battery. The town is called Cape Coast
Town, but the natives give it the name of
Inquah.
There is in general a high surf at the landing-
place ; but owing to the skill manifested by those
who 'manage the large canoes, persons are enabled
to make a safe landing. The boatmen keep the
head of their boat to the crest of the wave, until
they see their opportunity, when they turn round
and make what progress they can, in the meantime
steadying the boat with their oars or paddles, to
the movement of which they keep time, while
maintaining their courage by a song. It is dan¬
gerous for white people to get drenched, as it
generally brings on fever.
The castle is very strongly constructed, especially
on the side facing the sea. It is surrounded with
thick walls, which, with their white bastions, form
an agreeable contrast to the surrounding native
houses. The castle-gate opens into the main street,
in which are a church or chapel, and several hand¬
some houses belonging to different merchants.
To the right of the street there are two rows of
lofty trees, from which India rubber is extracted,
and the thick foliage of which forms an agreeable
shade.
The stranger is at once convinced of the pro¬
priety of the name by which this region is known.
The quantity of shining particles which he sees
316
MEANS OF LOCOMOTiON.
mixed with the sand beneath his feet convinces
him that he is indeed on the " Gold Coast."
In consequence of cattle being in general un¬
productive in this colony, they are brought from a
great distance, and meat is therefore both scarce
and dear.
Dysentery prevails at Cape Coast Castle, and
the inhabitants are also much troubled by what is
there called " Guinea-worm "
The means of locomotion are of a very rude
and primitive description, being a kind of cart or
carriage on four wheels, formed of wood or cane,
from the model of which the modern light vehicles
built in London and elsewhere might have been
constructed. Instead of horses, the natives yoke
themselves to these primitive carriages, and convey
the individual or individuals who make use of
them to their destination. As two persons may be
conveyed in one of these, I consider them in this
respect superior to palanquins.
The distance which they travel is, however, very
limited, as the roads in this neighbourhood in
general present a most primitive appearance, the
only tolerable one being that leading to forts Vic¬
toria and William, where there is a light-house.
The ladies may be seen dressed with their cunhas^
which are worn behind low upon the loins ; they
also delight in ornamenting themselves with gold
trinkets and cowrie shells, of which they make
bracelets.
ENGLISH AUTHOEITIES.
317
When in mourning, they have a very strange
custom of having all the hair, which women from
time immemorial have considered as their crown
and glory, shaved from their heads, which are after¬
wards washed white with chalk diluted in water.
The population is said to be about 275,00.0.
The new garrison is composed of 339 men ; they
have a band, a library, and a news-room.
The, chief authorities, besides the Lieutenant-
Goverpor, are the chief-justice, a secretary, and the
commanding officer of the Gold Coast Corps ; and
these compose the legislative and executive council.
There are also two or three medical men, a col¬
lector of customs, and other officials.
The strength of the former garrison was only
from fifty to sixty undisciplined men. It was this
force, aided by some black saldiers, who were de¬
feated by the Ashantees when Sir Charles McCar¬
thy lost his life.
The Ashantees fight like the Spanish Guerrillas,
and pick off their victims from behind the corner
of a rock or tree, but seldom expose themselves.
The cocked hat of the English Governor caused
him to be a marked man ; and his few white com¬
rades alone standing by him, while the black,
soldiers fled to the castle, the gallant Governor and
his heroic band were surrounded and butchered.
It is said that the cruel chief of the Ashantees ate
the heart of the valiant English Governor, that he
might become as brave and great as he.
318
ASHANTEE.
Flushed with this victory, the Ashantees in¬
vested the castle so closely and determinedly, that
the garrison would have been compelled to yield
had they not been relieved by a company of artil¬
lery with a battery of field guns and some Con-
greve rockets.
Governor McLean paid the King of Ashantee a
visit at his capital, Ooomassie, for the purpose oí
entering into some agreement with him for the
promotion of trade, and for the establishment of
mutual friendship.
A treaty of peace was then signed, order was
restored, and trade established on a firm basis—so
far, at least, as human foresight can judge.
Ashantee extends about 300 miles inland fix)m
the Gold Coast. The people are brave, and have
brought under subjection several of the neighbour¬
ing nations. The countiy is thickly wooded, and,
it is said, abounds in gold. The population is
estimated at about one million. They are a most
barbarous people, very bloodthirsty, very revenge-^
ful, and, as it is said, so ignorant that they use cer¬
tain ceremonies to propitiate the shark.
I was told that the King has 3,000 wives, who
act as an Amazonian body-guard for him.
•A violation of the sacred lav»rs of marriage is
punished by death, but each man is allowed an
indefinite number of concubines.
Gold forms the largest item in their export trade,
of which, I was told, fi*om 90,000 lbs. to 100,000lbs.
were annually exported, to England.
WOSSÀ TEBBITORY.
819
In the Wossa territory, which borders on the
Ashantee, and also at Inquah, gold is obtained, and
brought to Cape Coast Castle; the tribute from
these countries is paid according to the quantity of
gold collected.
But so much has been written on the manners of
those people, that it is unnecessary for me to
detain the reader by going more into detail respect¬
ing them.
This settlement also originally belonged to the
Portuguese; but was taken possession of, in the
time of our national depression, by the Dutch,
from whom it subsequently passed into the posses¬
sion of the English.
At Cape Coast the anchorage due is 25s. ; the
import duty is one-half per cent, ad valorem on the
invoice. There is no duty on exports.
This place produces good seamen ; the canoes or
cargo boats are strong and weU built: one was
sold at Ajuda, or Whydah, for 66/., as I was
informed by my friend, Mr. Freitas, a merchant.
In consequence of this treaty of peace between
the British and the Ashantees, some of* the King's
sons were taken to England to be educated, and
others were received on board British vessels—a.
measure which has been the means of cementing
friendship between the two nations, and has tended
in a great degree towards the civilization of the
natives.
Cape Coast Castle is also celebrated as being the
320
ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS.
last restiog-place of the talented and accomplislied
Mrs. McLean, so well known in the literary world
under the initials of her maiden name, L. E. L.
Leaving Cape Coast Castle, you next come to the
smaU English fort of Annamabœ ; it was formerly
almost abandoned, but latterly has been much im¬
proved.
Passing Winebah and Assam, which supply palm-
oil and gold dust, we arrive at the important
English settlement of Accra, where is the fortress
of St. James, built many years ago; as also
Christianburgh, purchased from Denmark in 1850,
together with aU the settlements on the coast be¬
longing to that nation.
At Akim, three days' journey north from Accra,
is a valuable gold mine ; and at thirty miles' dis¬
tance from Accra, inland, is the Grerman missionary
establishment of Akrapang.
After having left behind us the small English
establishment of Ningo, we passed Cape St. Paul,
a little to the east of the river Volta.
Generally speaking, the places where the most
important Commercial transactions are successfully
conducted are the Castles of El-Mina, Cape Coast,
and Accra.
During the prevalence of the Ventanías, or strong
winds, there is great difficulty in landing, even for
the large cargo boats ; and the delay sometimes
extends from days to weeks.
Captains of vessels trading on this coast, when
MONETABY STAEDABDS.
321
they become acquainted with the characters of the
various dealers, arrange matters so that they sell
their merchandize to them on three and six months'
credit, and receive payment on the return voyage.
The Americans are more expert in this kind of
trade than any others ; they seem to understand
better what is suitable for the various markets on
the coast, and they generally take advantage of the
trade winds.
Each portion of the coast has its own monetary
standard, and different measures of capacity. The
ake and hroo, for instance, both vary, the former
about one-eighth of a Spanish dollar, the latter about
501bs.
Having doubled Cape St. Paul, we left behind
us the factories of Quità, Little and Great Popó,
belonging to the kingdom of Dahomé, and were
soon in sight of the port of Ardrah, situate in 6° 16'
lat. N., and 10° 58' long. E. of Lisbon.*
It is difficult and dangerous to enter this place
in consequence of the shoals. A ship must anchor
about nine miles outside; and goods and passengers
are landed by large boats from the shore, in the
management of which the natives are very expert.
The sea at this place abounds with large and
ferocious sharks« The danger to be apprehended
from these sea monsters is supposed to terminate
when you enter the channel between the bank and
the shore, which is forty fathoms deep, and through
* West of Greenwich 1® 50'.
VOL. I. Y
S22 SHOALS AHB CUBBEÍÍTS.
which the water flows with a great current, bring^g
to land anything throvm into the sea at the distance
of eighteen miles.
This fact is turned to advantage by the King of
Dahomé, who has an officer placed Ibere, named
Grampé, or adjutant of the port, under whose su¬
pervision several persons are stationed, who act as
a coast-guard, and who seize everything thrown up
by the sea as the property of the King,
On some occasions the captains of the merchant-
ships take advantage of this current to communi¬
cate with the shore on any particular subject re¬
quiring immediate attention, espedaUy when any¬
thing goes wrong on'board, arising from the inso¬
lence, discontent, or mutiny of the crew. The
particulars are committed to paper, and put into
an empty bottle, which is corked tight and then
thrown into the sea. It is immediately carried
with the greatest velocity to the beach, where it is
sure to be picked up by one of. the sentinels and
carried to the G^mpé, who immediately sends it to
the Cacaracii, or port captain. It is conveyed by
him to the Àvogà, or maritime governor df the
coast, by whom it is given into the hands of the
Meú, whose office is similar to that of Secretary of
Foreign Affiairs, and who presents it to the King,
who seldom fails to investigate the matter com¬
plained of, and to grant redress.
Near the landing-place is a very neat vüh^
called Zambo^ It is agreeably situated, and is
surrounded by numerous trees.
AJÜDA.
323
Three miles distant from this is a lagoon, into
which the sea flows. Here is erected the Portu¬
guese fortress of " S. Joao Baptista d'Ajuda," or
St. John the Baptist of Ajuda, founded in 1680,
and around which many Christians are resident.
Here resides the Avogá, who superintends all
trade with the white men. He is assisted by the
" Cabeceiras," or head men, who are the principal
negro or black merchants.
Brfore the abolition of slavery, this Portuguese
settlement was of great importance ; but latterly—
especially since the separation of the Brazils—very
little trade is carried on with it^ except in palm-oil,
striped cotton doth of home manufacture, a vege¬
table grease which is much used by the negroes in
anointing their bodies ; large " cuias," or cups
made of clay, and " balaios," hampers or panniers ;
baskets, mats, aromatic and stimulant spices—^peze-
lecum and telecum—^made from palm-oü, and used
in seasoning ; the latter was prmdpaUy in demand
at Babia. The slaves brought to this settlement
were exclusively from the Bight of Benin.
The manufacture of palm-oü was first com-
m^ced by the slave-dealers, who whüe waiting the
arrival'of a purchaser, were desirous of turning to
account the labour of the slaves whom they had
collected for the market. This led them to turn
their attention to the manufacture of pahn-oü,
which in process of time they found to be very re¬
munerative.
Y 2
324
SI/AVß TEADE.
The demand for slaves became at length so
great in the Brazils, that the factories required
from four to five thousand men annually, and
when this number could not be obtained, they
took a rather novel method of supplying their
wants, by waiting outside and seizing on the car¬
goes which left for other porte, for which they
gave an order on the factor, on whose account
they took possession of the slaves.
This system was carried to such an extent that
the practice at length reached Cabinda, where the
slave-trade was then rife, and led to a trealy be¬
tween the chiefs, whereby a mutual accommoda¬
tion was efiected. This confederation has greatly
baffled the efforts of the authorities in the sup¬
pression of the slave-trade.
The head - quarters of this confederation are
Ajuda and Onim. After the union of the chiefs
the slave-trade ^eatly increased, notwithstanding
the philanthropic efforts. of governments and pri¬
vate individuals.
In 1832, Joâo Baptista BeUarra, agent of the
factory of Ajuda, an intelligent and enterprising
man, perceiving that the extinction of the slaved
trade on that coast was not far distant, began to
speculate in the pahn-oü trade, with the view of
supplying the ships that called. After his death,
two brothers, Victor and Lewds Regis Frères, from
MarseiQes, commenced there, in 1840, an establish¬
ment which is still flourishing, yielding, it is said,
an annual income of 1,000,000 francs.
FÄCTOBIES.
325
At Porto Novo, thirty miles to the east, and also
at Onim, some persons, encouraged by these suc¬
cesses, embarked in the same trade, so that a
number of vessels'are annually supplied with large
quantities of pahn-oil, from 150 to 300 tons going
from Porto Novo alone.
At Ajuda the exportation amounts now some¬
times to 4,000 tons annually ; the price for three
gallons is one Spanish dollar, but the value is more
generally taken in brandy, tobacco, delf-ware,
china, cotton, and clothes of various descriptions.
The fort of Ajuda has a detachment of soldiers
from the islands of S. Thome and Prince. It is
under the control of the governor of these islands
and the dependencies of the coast of Mina.
There is also a clergyman, whose church is well
filled by a number of native Christians, some of
whom attend from a great distance.
Not far from Ajuda there are two factories, one
English, the other French, communicating with
Ajuda by means of the lagoon ; each is surrounded
by a sarame, or village, formed of small houses
built of mud and thatched ; and inhabited by free
negroes and slaves. It is only lately that a few
white persons have, as a special favour, been per¬
mitted to cover their houses with tiles.
Near the walls of the fortress is the residence
of the Avogá, or Governor, who, in the name, and
under the sanction, of the King of Dahome, exer»-
cises authority over both natives and foreigners.
326
COBRA CABELLA.
The former are vassals, over whom he has power of
life or death ; but white persons, or those considered
as such, who infringe the traditional laws of the
country, are punished by fines according to tíie
extent of their guilt.
In consequence of this arbitrary power, the
people are often exposed to enormous extortions,
and their fate is inevitable. I may cite a case in
point : The cobra capella, or hooded snake, is re¬
vered here as much as the apis once was in Egypt ;
and, in consequence, a number of these serpents are
kept at the public expense, with priests who take
care of them. Notwithstanding all the vigilance
of the latter, they sometimes escape these guardians,
and take refuge in the houses of the inhabitants*
On one occasion the house where one of these
crawling deities was pleased to ent^ took fire, and
the god was burned to death ; but imfortunately
his remains were not totally consumed^ and after
the accident parts of the reptile were found in tiie
ashes. The case was brought before the autho^
rities, and the unfortunate householder, because he
suffered the object of worship to remain in his
house without giving timely notice thereof to the
priests, the le^tixnate guardians of their god% was
mulcted in the heavy penally of 400 peso^ or
Spanish dollars.
The council of Palaver—^ftom the Portugueas
Palavra—^is in the first instance conducted in pre-
M. DE SOUZA.
327
sence of the Arogá, but when the subject is of im¬
portance it is referred to the King.
When by a palaver before the Avogá a white
man is condemned in a penalty, especially if he is
a factor connected with some commercial house,
he is put under " ban," or, as it is termed at the
Cape of Good Hope, from the proceedings of the
Anti-slavery Society, " under the pledge." To
adopt their own phraseology " the roads are closed
against him ; " that is, he is politically excommu¬
nicated, and all men are interdicted from holding
any communication with him by trade or other¬
wise, so that an effectual stop is put to his business
transactions until he succumbs to the powers that
be. But if the person transgressing be in more
humble circumstances, he is tied hand and foot
and placed in a basket^ and is then conveyed by
negroes to the King, a distance of ninety miles,
that his majesty may deal with him as in his
kingly wisdom he sees fit.
Francisco Felix de Souza, better known by the
surname Xàxà, the last " Almoxarife," or govern¬
ment storekeeper, of the Portuguese fortress oí
Ajuda, having rendered essential service to King
Adaranzá in assisting him to ascend the throne,
and having exerted all his powers to establish him
thereon, was, in return for his zeal and fidelity,
promoted to the office of "Avogá of the white
people," an office which gave him authority above
the Avogá of the black population ; so that, in all
328
AVOGA OF THE WHITES.
cases in which whites were concerned, an appeal
had to he made for his sanction before there could
be any final decision come to.
During the administration of M. de Souza,
various improvements were carried out, especially
in a sanatory point of view, which is of the most
vital consideration in this district, as Ajuda is
considered very unhealthy, in consequence of a
large lagoon running along the coast for a number
of miles, which forms to some extent a medium for
the inland navigation.
M. de Souza had erected a vefy commodious
house, with ample accommodation not only for his
own family, but also for the hospitable entertain¬
ment of all European guests who happened to call,
and to whom he gave a princely reception. It is
said that the fortune of the host was sufficiently
ample to enable him to exercise a hospitality so
unbounded.
After his death, his son, Isidoro^ Felix de Souza,
was appointed to succeed him in the office of Avogá
of the white population, but he did not exhibit
the same tact in the administration of public affairs
as did his father ; the consequence of which was.
that he lost much of the prestige formerly con¬
nected with the name which his father had enjoyed;
and, as his influence waned, that of the Avogá of
the blacks waxed greater and greater.
One of the causes which led to the foregoing
.Tesult was that Mr. Souza, being a aon of the
KING OF DAHOMÉ.
329
seraglio, was reared in the lap of luxiiry, and
having associated so much with the negroes during
the period of his education, imbibed many of their
habits and propensities, and manifested so much
sympathy towards them, that the people at length
preferred to lay their cases for decision before the
Avogá of the blacks ; even Mr, Souza himself
cited into the presence of the latter all who came
under his displeasure. Two persons in particular—
Francisco de Miranda Vasconcellos and Francisco
de Souza Maciel—^were brought by him before the
black Avogá ; and having thus recognized his
fealty to the King of Dahomé, he succeeded in
getting a decision by which the above individuals
were each obliged to pay to him the amount of
400 Spanish dollars.
It is evident, from the above circumstances, that
the King of Dahomé is a despotic sovereign, and
absolute master of all the surrounding country.
His authority is recognized by the payment of the
"costumes," or custom, which is levied at this
port on all goods imported and exported.
The country is level, and abounds with stagnant
-pools. It is fertile, and, indeed, luxuriant in many
parts; and there are pleasant groves and dense
forests of large trees, especially towards the
interior, where it becomes more mountainous. The
soil, indeed, is in general so fertile that it produces
aU that is requisite for the maintenance of the
■inhabitants, who seldom require to import any
330
HOUSES AND PALACES.
description of provision, supporting thems^es
entirely by their native productions of maize, riee,
inhame, banana, cocoa, &c. ; while, for exportation,
besides gold-dust and palm-oil, there are wax,
hides, cotton, wild coffee, wild indigo, and a great
variety of beautiful skins brought from the intmor,
such as those of lions, panthers, gazelles, buffaloes,
and numerous other animals.
The houses are in general erected in the centre
of an enclosure, the walls of which are formed of
different kinds of material; some being built of
stone, and others of the stalks of the banana-tree
fastened together. There is~but one entrance into
these yards. The houses of the common peoplè
are of a very rude description, resembling the
" pondocks," or nottle and daub huts, at the Oapa
The dwellings of the wealthy are more substantial,
and very extensive, as, in addition to the family
mansion, there is a separate house built for each
wife and for the slaves. It is only the king, the
white people, and the Cabeceiras (headmen, or
heads of departments), who enjoy the privilege of
having floored houses.
The palaces of the King of Dahomé are sur¬
rounded with palisades of great extent, which
again are enclosed within strong stone w^ls ;
only entrance to these enclosurés is by a Imgè
gate, passing through which- you behöldj right and
left, two large raised pavements. One of the guard
belonging to the royal household is stationed oh
PARTIALITY TO THE PORTUGUESE. S3Î
each side; and the officers of the king, sitting
upon stools, await the commands of his majesty.
In the interior there is a labyrinth formed of a
number of huts, thatched with straw, which com¬
pose the palace or royal residence of the King.
They are built of clay ; on the ground floor is the
haU, which is used as the royal saloon for the
reception of foreigners ; and over this are the
royal bedrooms. There are numbers of these
royal palaces erected in various parts of the King*s
dominions.
The subjects of the King of Dahome, although
a barbarous people, are very partial to the white
portion of the population, and especially to their
first and oldest friends, the Portuguese—for whom
they express great esteem. However, it must not
be concealed that the people of this country are con¬
sidered among the most barbarous and uncivilized of
mankind, not only on account of the cruelties exercised
on criminals, but also from the fact of their oifer-
ing human sacrifices to propitiate their deities, on
which occasions is exhibited the greatest pomp of
the royal household.
These barbarities, however, are practised only
by the authorities, and would seem to be based on
some notions of their being politically necessary.
It is pnly just to the common people to say that
they do not in general sympathize with their
nfiers in such acts of cruelty, and that they by
no means manifest that ferocity which is usually
332
HOYAL AUTHORITY.
described ás constituting the main feature 6f their
character.
Adaranzà, the present King of Dahome, or
Danhome, is the ninth successor of the conqueror,
Adaranzà the First, who, having usurped these
kingdoms towards the conclusion of the seventeenth
century, united to them, by conquest, the kingdom
of Ardrah, or Alada. Within the boundaries of
the latter is situated the Portuguese fortress of
Ajuda ; as also the port of Jaquem, where, in former
days, the Portuguese carried on an extensive trade,
as well as with the coast of Pópós.
The inhabitants have such a servile fear of the
king, that, when his haçamock or palanquin ap¬
pears, they prostrate themselves to the ground, and,
until he has passed, continue throwing earth on
their heads in token of submission. Even the
officer whom we should denominate the secretary-
of-state, and the nobility, are not exempt from
this feeling of entire subservience to the will of
their sovereign—which they manifest with as much
bumüity ás any of their inferior fellow-subjects.
The principal residence of the king is at the
capital of his kingdom, the town of Calamina,
which is four days' journey distant from the Portu¬
guese fortress of Ajuda ; but he also possesses, as
before stated, palaces in several other towns,
which he visits alternately—as Alada, the ancient
capital of the kingdom of Ardrah; and Ahom^
where the kings are inaugurated or crowned, and
DEATH OF A KING.
33a
wherej also, is the royal sepulchre—a most exten¬
sive vault, in which are deposited the bodies of
deceased kings.
On the death of a king, a description of cenotaph,
surrounded by iron rails, is erected in the centre of
this catacomb. On the top of this they place an
earthen coffin, cemented together by the blood of
one hundred of the captives taken in the last wars,
who are sacrificed on the occasion of the king's
death, that they may attend on their sovereign in
the next world. The corpse of the king is then
deposited in this coffin, with the head resting on
the skulls of other conquered kings ; and as many
relics of royalty—such as skulls and bones—as can
be placed beneath the cenotaph, are put there as
trophies of the deceased sovereign.
When all is arranged the doors of this subterra¬
neous catacomb are thrown open, and eighty of
the "Abaias," or female dancers connected with
the court, together with fifty soldiers of the royal
guard, are compelled to enter. AU these are sup¬
plied with provisions, and are destined to accom¬
pany their sovereign to the land of shades—in
other words, they are offered as a living sacrifice
to the manes of their departed king ; and, strange
as it may appear, there is always a sufficient num¬
ber of volunteers of both sexes who consider it an
honour thus to immolate themselves.
The entrance to the catacomb having remained
open for three days, to receive the deluded votaries,
334
REGBNCT OF HIS SON.
the prime-minister covers the coffin with a. black
velvet pall, and then divides between hbnsdf, the
grandees, and the surviving women, the various
presents of jewels and clothes made by the new
king to the shade of the departed.
During eighteen moons, or months, the hdr acts
as regent, governing, with two of his ministers, in
the name of the deceased king. At the expirarion
of the above period, he convenes the whole court
at the palace of Ahomé, whence they proceed to
the subterraneous tomb, when the coffin is opened,
and the skull of the deceased king is taken out.
The regent, taking it in his left hand, and holding
a hatchet in his right, for the first time proclaims
aloud the fact—of which the people are supposed
to be ignorant—-that the king is dead, and that he
has hitherto governed only in his name. The
company present, on hearing this, fall prostrate,
covering themselves with earth in token of pro¬
found grief, which, however, does not conlinim
long ; for, lapng aside the skull and hatchet, the
regent draws a sword from its scabbard, and pro- •
claims himself their king. The people immediatidy
make a loud noise with their rude instruments of
music and batuques^ and dancing and other mani¬
festations of mirth follow.
On this occasion all the grandees, and the prin¬
cipal white men who conduct the saram^ or
factories, present valuable gifts. This is what is
termed the great custom, to distinguish it from the
HUMAN SACBIFIGES,
335
six months' custom, of which mention shall after¬
wards be made.
Holy writ tells us that " the dark places of the
earth are full of the habitations of cruelly," the
truth of which is nowhere more fuUy displayed
than in this stronghold of the Prince of Darkness ;
for, even on this festive occasion, Moloch must
receive his holocaust, and some hundreds are immo¬
lated that they may convey to the deceased king
the tidings of his successor's coronatiou. The
blood of the victims bemg mixed with clay, a kind
of large pot—^something in the shape of an oven,
and perforated with holes—^is formed Into this
the skull and bones of the deceased king are put,
and it is filled up with silk and other articles. On
a certain day the reigning, king goes to pay a visit
to his father's skuU^ to which he makes an offering
by pouring in through the holes brandy, zumbi, and
cowries—^the current medium of exchange in the
kingdom. The latter are presented in order that
the deceased may pay his way in the next world,
and not disgrace his successor by getting into
debt.
The kings formerly went naked firom the waist
upwards, except on particular or solemn occa¬
sions, when they threw a rich cloth, or large cape,
over th«ir shoulders ; they are now, however, much
more cmnpletely ck)thed—slheir neck, arms, and
hair are ornamented with jewellery of rude manu-
ftbcture, and with strings of very fine coral ; they
336
LACEES OF THF HAREM.
wear loose rich silk trousers, made something
after the Turkish style, over which they ^t^
around the waist some superfine doth. On the
head they wear a white silk or velvet cap, em¬
broidered- in gold ; and on the feet sandals secured
by small gold chains. Thus atdred, they sit in
state, OT rather recline on cushions covered with
rich silk cloths, and surrounded by the ladies of
the harem, all of whom are under the superintend-'
ence and control of the " Dádá," or favourite
sultana, who exercises supreme authority, and in
the seraglio possesses the prerogative of life or death
over the other women.
Those females have allotted to them various
offices around the person of the sovereign : one
has charge of his golden pipe ; another has charge
of the golden spitoon ; one lights the fire in a smalt
chafing dish which supplies the live coals for his
pipe ; another is seen with a small gold key, as the
emblem of her office, wherewith she unlocks the
silver bottle-case in which his majesty ke^ the
liqueurs with which he treats foreign^ or others
to whom he wishes to show any particular mark
or favour ; on another of the ladies devolve the
task of keepng the crown of the sovereign's head
elean shaved.
When the ministers or grandeès are ushered into
his presence they each in ^icoessÎGb prostrate
themselves on their knees befi^ this august per«
sonage.
THE MINGO.
337
The prime-minister, or Mingo, manages all the
internal affairs of thé kingdom, and also acts the
part of high-sheriff, in seeing that the extreme
penalty of the law is carried out on all criminals
sentenced to death. This is done under his
authority by the " Pála," or public executioner; but
if the condemned individual is a person of distinc¬
tion, then the- sentence is carried out by the Mingo
in 'propria persona.
It is also the duty of the Mingo to see that aU
the orders of the king, and all the laws of the
kingdom, are faithfully executed; and to watch
over all the interests of the country, foreign and
domestic—so that his duties are most onerous, and
his office no sinecure. He also takes under his
guardianship the heir-apparent to the throne, who
is the eldest son of the Dádá, or sultana, whose
children alone have the privilege of being called
the sons of the king. The scion of royalty is
educated and trained beneath the roof of this
&u;totum prime-minister.
The sons of the king by the other women are
called " Accovis," or, as we should designate them,
royal pages ; they are the grandees of the realm,
but incur the penalty of death should they presume
to call themselves sons of the Mng.
The second in authority to the Mingo is the
" Meú," who acts as secretary or prime-minister of
foreign affairs, superintends the commerce of the
nation, administers the lands obtmned by conquit
VOL. I. z
338
HEADS, OF DEPARTMENTS.
or forfeiture, and disposes by sale or otherwise of
all captives. He has an adjutant under him, called
the " Jato," who aids him by his counsel ; but in
all difficult cases he has recourse to the Mingo.
Commercial affairs and dealings with Europeans
are superintended by the Avogá, or Governor of the
Maritime Coast, whose residence is at Gréqué, near
to the Portuguese fortress of Ajuda. This otficer
has under him the Cacaracii, or Port-Captam, who
also has an assistant, called the Gampé.
The chief executioner is the Pàca, or High-
Provost, who is considered as one of the grandees ;
he walks in procession along with the members of
the Court, carrying a naked scimitar in his hand,
and followed by his assistant, the Attó, whose duty
it is to draw the headless trunks of those that have
been decapitated from the place of execution into
a field, where they are left a prey to the vultu|?es,
the urubiis, and other Ifirds, as well as the numerous
wild beasts with whkh the country abound^ ; it
is needless to add that they must also contributif
by their number to the insldubrity of the neigh-«
bourhood.
The other heads of departments are the " Sogan,"
or Treasurer-general ; the f^ Toposé^" or iSupi^yn»
tendent of Agriculture, i&c. ; the '^Agahu/'or Com-
mander-in-ohief of the araay and the "Adandfi,"
whose particular province is always to - ©ommn^d
tíie rearguard of the armyV and to pumue and
destroy all fu^tiims frokn the battlefield.
BOYAL COUÎTCIL.
339
The present king has attained such power and
influence thatj in the last war, he was enabled to
bring into the field an army of more than 120,000
men, all armed, well disciplined, divided into dif¬
ferent battalions, and officered by intelligent men
after the manner of Europeans.
There are numerous other minor offices, held by
the "Cabeceiras," or headmen, who are possessors of
land and vassals, similar to those of olden times
amongst the feudal noblemen of Portugal and
other countries of Europe. They pay large tribute
to the Crown in time of peace, and in time of war
they provide men for the national defence. They
enjoy the exclusive privilege of trading with the
white people, except in gold, firearms, and ammuni¬
tion, the monopoly of which articles belongs ex-
clùdvely to the Crown.
These cabeceiras and grandees are dressed after
the Turkish fashion, in wide trousers, vests with
broad sleeves, and a cloth of native manufacture,
which they throw over their shoulders when they
have an interview with their superiors. On the
head they wear white cotton caps, and those of the
higher order, hats; sandals are used in place of
shoes.
The royal council is formed of all the nobles ;
bttt the lîaiés, or king's women, have the first
Vote : the latt^ also enjoy the privilege of impo^g
a fine on any courtier who is so ungaUant as to op¬
pose their vote. Affcer these ladi^, the "Séquedés,"
z 2
340
PKIEST OF THE HOUSEHOLD,
or private secretaries, or keepers of the king%
secrets, hold a position next in importance in the
royal household ; they are selected from amongst
the sons of the grandees, and are said to be bom
eunuchs ; they are the appointed guardians of the
seraglio ; their chief is called the Ganjo. Two of
them always accompany the ambassador's and
king's messengers to see that the royal mission is
creditably performed.
The Mingo presides over the council, and, by
virtue of his office, has a casting vote in the event
of there being an equal number of votes on each
side.
The Fetish priest of the household, or royal
chaplain, aho attends the council ; and this leads
me to say something of their ecclesiastical polity.
In common with most of the nations inhabiting
the coast, they worship the sun ; but as they con¬
sider that he is far beyond the reach of their
adorations, they believe that he delegates a portion
of his divine essence to objects animate or inani¬
mate, which they worship in his stead. He is
believed to be present spiritually in certain groves
or caverns, and to these places the most marvellous
legends are attached. He is supposed to reside
visibly in clay idols, and sometimes in certain
beasts—^as the snake, called by them " Daboi;" the
chameleon, the urubús, &c. These idols and
animals, when thus deified, are called Fetish, and
horned cattle are sacrificed to propitiate them;
PETISH.
341
offerings of provisions and cowries are also made
by the common people, and even of human blood
by the king.
Each Fetish has its own lacos, or sorcerer, who
attends on it ; and to this priestly office is united
that of professor of physic. Deceivers lay claim
to a superior knowledge of the medicinal pro¬
perties of herbs, and especially of their poisonous
qualities.
The court priest, or high chaplain, is dressed in
a long tunic of blue cloth, with a cap or wig made
of monkey skin on his head, with sandals, fastened
by strips of the same skin, on his feet.
Amongst a people so degraded, and slaves to
such despotism, it is hardly to be expected that
one could meet with anything but what is barbarous
and savage ; and yet the common people are in
general docile, tolerant, and even friendly to the
white people.
In the account written by the priest, Vicente
Fedreira Pires, in 1800, it is stated that the success
of the missionaries sent from Portugal was apparent;
that several conversions had been made, and that
there was no doubt that King Adaranzà the Eighth
was decidedly resolved to embrace Christianity, as
he thought "the white people's Fetish was a good
one." This king, however, died without receiving
baptism; but, no doubt, to the labours of these
missionaries may be attributed the tolerant spirit
since manifested towards the white people, as well
342
JTTRISPRÜDINCE.
as towards Mahomedans. The Mussulman negroea
settled in this country, as traders in ivor]5 are
called " Males," and are natives of the kingdom of
Accra, and therefore neighbours of the Ashantees ;
many of them unite the errors of Mahomet with
the adoration of the sun—and this mixture of two
forms of religion is observable throughout all these
kingdoms.
Respecting the jurisprudence of the kingdom of
Dahomé, the will of the despot is the supreme law ;
but there is, in ordinary cases, a code by which the
affairs of the kingdom are regulated.
The police laws are very stringent: at nine
o'clock at night the curfew is struck on the " gon-
gon," a description of large bell ; after which any
person met by the guard with arms (be he even a
Cabeceiras or Accovi), is captured ; and, according
to the king's pleasure, is either dismissed on pay^
ment of a fine, or, as is generally the case, kept in
durance until he has been examined as to his object
in being discovered with arms upon him.
Theft is punished in like manner^by fine, if the
individual is possessed of property, and summaidl§^
by flogging if he is poor. If the theft or ftaud^'
however, has been practised on the king, the
offence is capital, and only expiated by death. If
a thief, on being detected, resists, and the owner o£
the property takes his life, the latter must pit^uoe
three witnesses to prove the fact, or he will not
escape puni^ment.
WANT OF A CORONER.
34S
All the king's subjects are permitted to wrestle
or box ; but if they draw 'blood, they contravene
the law, and become subject to the penalty of
death, which, however, may be remitted on the
payment of a ñne, as is generally the case if the
transgressor be a Cabecéira, or a white man ; for
they have an old adage that says, " It is a presage
of evil when a white man's blood flows." They
are also unwilling that a white man should die at
the court of Calamina of any sickness.
Insult offered to the Accovi is summarily
punished, by the offender being sold as a slave.
The want of a coroner is felt even more severely
at Dahomè than at the Cape of Good Hope, as the
following statement will fuUy testify :—If any per¬
son, after eating or drinking at the house of any
individual, becomes sick within three days, the
host must prove to the satisfaction of the authori¬
ties that the food or drink was not deleterious, or
he is compelled, at his own cost^ to have the man
restored to health; and, in the event of death
ensuing, he is adjudged ipso facto to be guilty of
having poisoned him, and therefore forfeits his
Kfe. All future trouble, however, may be avoided
by the host first partaking of the food, whether
«meat or drink, offered to a guest—^an observance
which, for the above reason, is seldom forgotten.
The law relating to adultery is exceedingly
stringent ; and, in some particulars, its provi^ons
are very strange an4 inconvenient, even to the per-
344
CONSPIRACY.
son seeking redress. For instance, he must take
the wife of the offender ; but if the la^er is a
single man, a fine is inflicted instead. White men
also come under this last provision. If the
aggrieved party be one of the Cabecmras, or
grandees, the crime is punished by death; but the
sentence may be commuted into a severe flogging,
and being sold into slavery ; in this latter case the
woman is confiscated, and becomes the property of
the king, who sells her immediately, unless she is
an Accovi, in which case she cannot be sold, but
the king can decide on some other punishment for
her.
The same law extends to the Naiés. If a person
who has been adjudged guilty of death escapes that
doom, he is sold into slavery ; if a white man, he is
sentenced to pay a very heavy fine.
Any person convicted of conspiring against the
life of the king, or of one of his wives, ministers, or
Séquedés, is punished by death—with this differr
ence, that a grandee is decapitated by the Mingo,
in the presence of the king ; and a plebeian by the
páca, outside the precincts of the palace.
If the malefactor is a white man, then, in ord«*
to avoid the evil effects that, according to the
augury, would ensue from drawing his blood, he
is tied to a tree or post, and left to die of hunger
and thirst.
The ambassadors, ^équedés, or confidants, who
reveal the royal secrets, are adjudged gudiy pf
liAWS OF TRADE.
345
death. In the royal presence the subject who is
honoured with an audience is expected to manifest
the most abject servility.
The Cabeceiras only are allowed the privilege of
trading in certain commodities—such as tobacco
and brandy, for which they give in exchange ivory,
wax, slaves, and, in fact, every description of
goods, except gold, which, together with silver,
coral, arms, and gunpowder, are considered as
under the peculiar control of the king.
The creditor who complains to the secretary,
Meú, against any debtor who fails in the perform¬
ance of his engagements, obtains immediate redress
by the seizure and public sale of the defaulter's
goods ; and if there is any surplus it goes to the
Crown.
When any of the white people undertake a
journey, they are accompanied by an armed negro,
who is styled "chief of the roads," and who is
responsible for the safe conduct of all persons put
under his protection.
It is the exclusive privilege of the king and
white people to be conveyed in the macas^ or
hammocks.
Independent of the police regulations, there are
laws which regulate the domestic affairs of the
subjects. The head of each family possesses com¬
plete arbitrary power over the respective members of
the household ; but is not permitted to draw blood,
which is reserved as a special prerogative of the king.
346
DEATHS AHD MABEFAOES.
The subject is allowed as many concubines as he
can maintain ; but the first wife is alone considered
the legitimate one. She superintends and directs
all the domestic duties, and all must be subject to
her control She is bound to her husband "so long
as he liveth ; " but the concubines may leave when
they please, and go to the king, orto any whom hé
may appoint to become their future masters.
A marriage is celebrated by dancing the haiugue
and other dances for three days, at the house both
of the bride and bridegroom, after which the two
families unite in their festivities.
The sons of the first wife inherit all the mother^
property, in addition to half of the father's; the
other half of which nominally goes to the king,
who, however, in general distributes it amongst thé
sons of the concubines.
The rite of sepulture is denied to all who aré
not considered as the chief members of the family.
When these die, their grave is opened under the
bed upon which they have died, a male kid is
immolated, and libations of brandy, oil, &c., with
farina and cowries, are offered to the idol liba, as
the guardian angel of the deceased. All oth«
corpses are carried to the forests, and left there to
be devoured by beasts and birds of prey, which,
report be true, are asskted at the banquet thus
provided by their neighbours, the negrees.
The immorality of the Court is very great—
dancing females being prostitutes, tiie prop^ty
BOtAL PRBSBNTATIOlia
347
of the king, who derives a revenue from their
infamj.
The king presents himself in great state to his
subjects twice each year—on the 24th of June, and
the 25th of December. At these two great national
festivals, called " Usages" sudi scenes of barbarity
and cruel butchery are witnessed as may in
truth be said " to beggar description."
Opposite the sepulchral palace Ahorné is an
extensive yard, in one part of which is raised (a
few days before the exhibition) a small amphi¬
theatre. Here is placed the royal tribune, on
which the king, surrounded by his court, reclines
on cushions covered with silk cloth ; at his right
hand are a number of arm-chairs, occupied by
the white men, the principals of the European
frctories, or sarames, who attend on special in¬
vitations. On the left hand sits the Dada, accom¬
panied by all the Naies and Séquedés ; and beyond
these are ranged the grandees, reclining on skins,
and supported by stools, which they are allowed to
use on such occasions only in the presence of the
king. The open space around is crowded with
peojde, singing, playing on tambourines and pipes,^
rin^ng bells, and making other noisy demonstra^
tiens of joy.
Opposite to the royal gallery is left a large open
space^ in the centre of which is erected a wooden
scaffold. The grand spectacle begins by the
authorities making their usual presents, m* offers
348 BETy^ARDS AND PUNISHMENTS.
ings, to the king. The present ^ven by the
Governor of Ajuda is equal in value to 177/. 15s. Qd,
annually, half of which is paid at each of the two
great annual festivals ; the king, at the same time,
presents small gifts to the nobles in return, and
confers new honours and appointments.
After the ceremony of rewards comes that of
punishment. The chief secretary, Mingo, who con¬
ducts the arrangements of the festival, enters first
on horseback, accompanied by the Ganjo, chief of the
seraglio, and inspector of the horses, also mounted.
They are followed into the circus by a hundred
strong black men, marching in file, all leading
horses, on each of which is a large basket
containing a criminal of either sex. These pri¬
soners and horses have, for some time previous,
been collected at a senzalla, the prison or slave
residence, under the care of the Mingo and Ganjo,
where each is fastened to a wooden post; and
where, a few days before the festival, they are
visited by the king, to ascertain whether they have
been taken good care of, and recéived sufficient
nourishment—so that, on the great festival day, they
may not disgrace him by a meagre appearance, but
be lusty and strong. On the occasion of this
visit, if the culprit has found favour, he receives a
mitigation of his sentence, or a free pardon; and if
the latter, he is taken under the royal protection.
When the cortège, or cavalcade, has entered the
arena, it passes in procession three times roun^
DECAPITATIONS.
349
each time pausing in front of the king, who can,
and sometimes does, even then extend the royal
clemency to the unfortunate malefactors ; if he is
so disposed, he extends to the favoured individual
the extremity of a silk cloth, which he wears as a
cape on the occasion.
When this part of the ceremony is concluded,
the black conductors approach the scaffold in the
same order, and each deposits his basket at the feet
of the páca, who attends there to receive them;
and who, with astonishing power, and almost
incredible swiftness, with one blow strikes the head
off each victim in succession, as they are presented
to him. He then places aU the heads on the
scaffold ; while the Atto, his adjutant or assistant,
draws the decapitated body out of the arena. The
horses are next despatched in like manner, in the
belief that they are thus sent to render their
services to the deceased royal ancestors of the
king.
The horseflesh is distributed amongst the princi¬
pal men of the kingdom ; after which there is a
grand feast, at which the white people are served
in European style by competent cooks, and the
chief men of the country according to their native
fancy. During these feasts there are copious liba¬
tions of brandy, wines, and other liquors, and
numerous healths and toasts are given.
The King of Dahome does not appear in public
but on the two great annual festivals. He has,
350
MARKET OF CAIiAMINA.
however, frequent audiences with the Cabéceiras,
and is then attended by the secretaries, but without
the seraglio. For this purpose a booth, or covered
stage, is erected in the court inside the entrance
gate of the palace, which is tastefully fitted up, and
lined with silk, where he receives all communica¬
tions, attends to all complaints, and summarily
decides on all matters brought under his notice^
The daily market of Calamina is held in a large
space opposite to the residences of the secretaries^
Mingo and Meú, under whose supervimon it is
conducted, and who see that the public are suf^
plied with good wholesome provisions at a reason*
able price.
Besides this market, there are daily fairs, held
alternately at different important places throughofHi
the kingdom. On Sunday there is one Ahomá,
opposite the Palace of the Dead ; on Mondays, at
Calamina; on Tuesdays, at Zóbodó; on Wednea-
days, at Mióqui; on Thursdays, at Ziago; on
Fridays, at Adóqui; and on Saturdays, at Agonam.
These fairs are watched^ over by an officer, called^
the " Paraqueti," who has a guard of 100 m^ at
his disposal. His duty is to enforce order^, to
settle any disturbance that may arise, and to» see
that justice is done to all parties. If need, be, he
can communicate with the Mingo, as protector of
the public int^est.
We thus see that every proteetioit is given to the
brisk trade which is carried on in thia km^^cwit
THE BAHOMÉS.
351
The circulatiiíg medium is cowries ; the goods
offered for sale, besides provisions, are tobacco,
i^otton, doth of prions descriptions, in imitation
of Hamburgh linen; printed handkerchiefs, zuartes,
&c. The dyes used are indigo and other fast
colours. The woodèn manufactures are of a coarse
description ; the metal castings, also, are of a rough
quality; but those who possess the means can
Supply themselves with all the luxuries they require
from the white traders—so that both the king and
his nobles have their gold and silver plate, glass,
china, furniture, and eyery article either of con-
yenience or luxury.
The Dahomés have good figures and regular
features, and are robust and well formed. They
are good horsemen, and wdl understand the use of
the musket, which gives them a decided advantage
over the Aionos and other nations in the interior,
with whom they have occasional wars. They are
courageous, and even desperate in battle ; for, as
before stated, those who attempt to retreat are cut
off by the officer of the rear-guard ; but for eveiy
head of the enemy which they can produce, if they
can only prove that it has been obtained by their
own personal valour, they are liberally regarded.
During peace they are joyous,^ agreeable, and
hoi^table, but much given to lic^tîôusness. They
are in general intelligent, and Soon learn to speak,
iiead, and write different languagesj e^ckJly
Portuguese, with whi^ they are mosl^ conversant;
352
GOLD MINES.
some of them can speak fluently in Portuguese,
Dutch, Danish, English, and even French.
Fifteen miles to the east of the port of Ardrah
is another, called " Jequenu" It is not so danger¬
ous as Ardrah, and is more commodious fcnr trad¬
ing. At the same distance west is Great PópA Both
these ports have a considerable trade.
The kingdom of Dahomé is bounded on the
west by the kingdom of Accara, where are found
the rich mines of gold-dust which the Mahomedaii
" Males " bring to Dahomé. It is conveyed by the
Ashantees to the seaports. They exchange one
aqui or ake (one haJf-drachm) of pure gold for
European goods of the value of 4ä. ; but it is neces¬
sary for the merchant to be able to distínguii^
between the pure gold and the oracrâ, which,
although it is certainly gold, and of nearly the
same weight and colour as the pure metal, is €Í
an inferior description, and the negroes are in thé
habit of mixing it with the purer gold.
Dahomé is bounded on the east by the extenâvé
kingdom of Benim ; and also by the kingdom of
Oére, where the Portuguese had, until the eightemtà
century, a church and factory at the mouth (rf
Rio do Forcado, from whence they ascended to the
town of Jabum, for the purpose of trading.
To the north of Dahomé are the Aionos, a semi-
barbarous people, who supply quantities of ivory,
wax, and red wood. On this side there is also a
small nation, caU^ the NagMiBl,** who are said to
WILD BEASTS.
353
be cannibals ; they live in the forest, and are not
allowed by the Dahomés to approach the coast.
These countries are occaâonally visited by
swarms red locusts, which come in such num¬
bers as conáderably to darken the sun. Wherever
they alight they destroy every description of vege¬
tation, and even enter the habitations of the people,
devouring everything that is edible, and even
attacking persons asleep. This visitation is gene¬
rally followed by a famine, which is succeeded by
its usual concomitant—a pestilence, caused by the
number of corpses which are left unburied, to be
devoured by the tigers, wolves, vultures, urubús,
and numerous other wild beasts and birds of prey,
with which these regions abound.
Amongst the most useful of the wild beasts of
this country, in a commercial point of view, are
the elephant and hippopotamus, which are valuable
on account of the large supplies of ivory which
they afford.
The European markets are also supplied from
Dahomé with the skins of ounces, tigers, stags, and
wüd buffaloes ; with large quantities of goat-skins,
and the hides of oxen.
The forests abound with lions, hyenas, wolves,
wild boars, gazelles, various species of antelopes,
and a great variety of baboons and monkeys.
In a manuscript account of these countries,
written by the priest Vicente Ferreira Pires, men¬
tion is made of a small wild beast, called a " zoo,"
VOL. I. A A
354
FEROCIOUS MONKEY.
which he says " he saw." It was about the size of
a dog, with the head of a monkey, its skin of an
ashy colour. He says it spring like an ounce, sits
on the trees amidst the thick foliage, hnitates the
singing of a bird, and darts from its perch on the
unwary traveller.
There is another ferocious little monkey, of a
dark colour, with a white snout, and teeth as sharp
as knives ; it is called the " laba " (it ought to be
called " vampire "), and darts right at the throat
of the unsuspicious traveller, which it seizes,' and
from which it sucks the blood. There is no other
means of removing this desperate animal but by
killing it. If the unfortunate individual who is
thus attacked is alone and unprovided with the
means of deliverance, he inevitably falls a victim ;
but if seen in time, by pointing a gun, or a stick
or cane in imitation of a gun, the brute will fly,
fearful of being shot.
There is a great abundance of reptiles, and many
disagreeable and destructive in^ts ; venomous
snakes also are numerous, but the sorcerers profess
to know perfect antidotes to their bite.
Amongst the snakes is one called the " Saboy,"
which is venerated as a Fetish, and to kill one
would be to incur certain death.
END OF VOL. I.
S. BOEK, FBlNtEB, OLOUCESTEB STB££T, BEGENT'S FABK.