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VALUABLE 
 
 COOKING RECEIPTS. 
 
 / 
 
 THOMAS J* MTTKBEY, 
 
 BY 
 
 Late Caterer of Astor House and Rossmore Hotel of New York, and 
 Continental Hotel of Philadelphia. 
 
 
 IS 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 GEORGE W. HARLAN, 
 
 19 Park Place. 
 
 1880. 
 

 Copyright, 1880, by 
 GEORGE W. HARLAN. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 IN" issuing this little volume the publisher is aware that 
 the market is already deluged with " cook-books," both 
 good and bad ; but the aim in this instance is to utilize the 
 experience of a caterer, who has spent twenty-five years of 
 his life in the service of leading hotels and restaurants all 
 over the country, besides catering to the appetites of thou- 
 sands of private families. The well-known and unsurpassed 
 cuisine of the hotels where he has been employed would of 
 itself form testimony conclusive of his culinary ability, but 
 he possesses besides numerous flattering letters from pri- 
 vate parties, many of high standing in the community. 
 As a salad-maker his reputation is wide-spread, and his 
 receipts under this head are numbered among the hundreds, 
 any one of which is a masterpiece of epicurean art and 
 taste. It is my intention shortly to issue a book contain- 
 ing these receipts. 
 
 In writing receipts for this volume Mr. Murrey has kept 
 economy constantly in mind, and has endeavored to present 
 some of the most appetizing formulas in such a shape as to 
 be within the reach of all families of moderate means. 
 Each and every receipt has been personally tested and can 
 be implicitly relied upon. The arrangement is that of a 
 regular bill of fare or menu. It will be understood, of 
 course, that the contents of this book do not pretend to 
 cover the field of cookery. Some idea of the magnitude of 
 
4 Preface. 
 
 such a task can be had when you are informed that Mr. 
 Murrey possesses probably the largest library on gastronomic 
 art in this country, numbering many thousand volumes. 
 Like all men who have made this art a study, he has aimed to 
 so construct his formulas as to ward off indigestion and dys- 
 pepsia. Apropos at this point is a story illustrating the phi- 
 lanthropy of that prince of French chefs, Careme. Meeting 
 one day a woman bitterly weeping at the door of a wine- 
 shop, his commiserating question was answered by saying 
 her husband was within ; all his earnings were spent there 
 and his family left to starve. Close questioning revealed 
 the fact that the culprit liked good living, and that the wife 
 condemned him to boiled beef every day. " No man cares 
 to go abroad," said Careme reproachfully, " for a bad meal, 
 if his wife can cook him a good one, particularly if a silver- 
 smith and earning money." Careme visited the house the 
 next morning, and ordered a silver cup to be repaired, and, 
 while waiting for its completion, offered to cook his own 
 breakfast, which the man and wife shared. It was wood- 
 cock cooked in a way to electrify an Apicius. Careme 
 called again for his cup with some wild duck. Meantime, 
 the wife made rapid progress in the chefs art. The husband 
 ceased wasting his money. The delicate fare improved his 
 intellect ; he became an artist in his trade, and finally one 
 day Careme received a box containing a silver woodcock ex- 
 quisitely carved, carrying in its beak a tiny silver cup, with 
 the inscription, " To Careme, from a friend who was saved 
 by good cooking." 
 
 The Publisher. 
 
VALUABLE COOKING RECEIPTS. 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 Raw Oysters. — Eat raw oysters as plain and as free from 
 condiments as possible, and always on the deep shell in their 
 own liquor. The average American orders a dozen on the 
 half -shell and then drowns his pets in vinegar, pepper, salt, 
 horse-radish, etc., washing them down with some malt beve- 
 rage, pays his check, and disappears. The next day he goes 
 through the same performance, and the not over-conscien- 
 tious oyster-man, knowing his weakness for condiments, can 
 easily palm off on him a " Rockaway Cull " for a Blue Point 
 or a Green Point, or he may give him a " deep-water na- 
 tive " for almost any particular kind or brand he may want, 
 and he cannot detect the difference in their flavor, owing to 
 his excessive use of condiments. A little lemon-juice is 
 all that is necessary, if you will not eat your saline dainties 
 natural. 
 
 The heartless oyster-fiend who opens your oysters by smash- 
 ing the shell should be avoided, for it is cruelty, to say the 
 least. We can forgive him for spattering our clothing with 
 shells, mud, and dirty water, but filling our mouths with 
 these things is pure ugliness. Order a quart of the bivalves 
 to be sent home, and this oyster-butcher endangers the 
 health of your family should any of them swallow a par- 
 ticle of the shell. The true lover of an oyster should have 
 some feeling for his little favorite, and patronize establish- 
 ments only where they contrive to open them (Boston fash- 
 ion) so dexterously that the mollusk is hardly conscious he 
 has been removed from his lodging "till he feels the teeth 
 of the piscivorous gourmet tickling him to death. " 
 
 5 
 
6 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Roast Oysters on half-shell. — Open a dozen large oysters on 
 deep shell; add a walnut of butter, with a little salt and mixed 
 pepper (red and black) and a pinch of cracker-dust to each. 
 Place them on a broiler over a sharp, clear fire until done, 
 and serve. 
 
 Families not having all the conveniences for roasting oys- 
 ters "restaurant fashion " will find the above receip accept- 
 able ; though I must confess it is quite a treat to our Western 
 cousins to ask them down into the kitchen of an evening, and 
 serve up a peck of oysters roasted in the shell direct from 
 the fire, with no other tool to pick them out of the coals 
 than the old tongs the moment they pop open. You may 
 possibly burn a finger or two, but what of that so long as 
 the young folks have had a good time? 
 
 Oysters escalloped. — In a deep yellow dish place a layer 
 of oysters and cover them with cracker-dust (add an ounce 
 of butter to each layer of cracker-dust) ; pepper and salt to 
 taste; another layer of oysters, another of cracker-dust, and 
 so on until the dish is full. Moisten the dish with the juice 
 of the oysters or hot water to prevent its burning, and 
 bake a nice brown. 
 
 Oyster Patties. — Roll out some very light puff paste half 
 an inch thick ; stamp it in rounds with a cutter three inches 
 in diameter ; press a small cutter two inches in diameter on 
 the middle of each to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
 Place the rounds on a buttered tin, baste them lightly with 
 egg, and bake in a quick oven. "When done take them out, 
 remove the centre-piece, scoop out a little of the inside, and 
 fill the shells with the prepared oysters. 
 
 Parboil twenty-five oysters in their own liquor; remove 
 the oysters and season the liquid with lemon-peel, nutmeg, 
 and pepper; strain, and thicken with a heaping tablespoon- 
 ful of flour, one and a half ounces of butter, a wineglassful 
 of rich cream ; mix, and then add the oysters. Simmer all 
 together a few minutes, fill the shells, and serve. 
 
 Scallops and clams cut up fine, with a sauce made on the 
 same principle, make a very nice patty. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 7 
 
 Oyster toast. — Select fifteen plump oysters; mince them, 
 and season with mixed pepper and a pinch of nutmeg; beat 
 the yolks of four eggs and mix them with half a pint of 
 cream. Put the whole into a saucepan and set it over the 
 fire to simmer till thick; stir it well, and do not let it boil lest 
 it should curdle. Toast five pieces of bread and butter them ; 
 when your dish is near boiling-point remove it from the fire 
 and pour it over the toast. 
 
 Fried oysters. — Beat up the yolks of four eggs with three ta- 
 blespoonfuls of sweet oil, and season them wiLh a teaspoonful 
 of salt and a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up tho- 
 roughly. Dry twelve fat oysters on a napkin; dip them in 
 the egg-batter, then in cracker-dust; shake off the loose 
 cracker- dust, dip them again in the egg-batter, and lastly 
 roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Fry in very hot fat, using 
 fat enough to cover them. The oil gives them a nice flavor. 
 (Private receipt of a prominent Philadelphia caterer.) 
 
 Broiled oysters.— Rub the bars of a wire broiler with a lit- 
 tle sweet butter. Dry twelve large, fat oysters and place them 
 upon the broiler plain. Broil them over a clear fire, and 
 when done on both sides send to table on a piece of buttered 
 toast, with a little melted butter in a separate dish. Should 
 you hanker after a delightful case of dyspepsia cover them 
 with egg-batter and roll them in crumbs before broiling. 
 
 Oysters a la Poulette. — Blanch a dozen oysters in their own 
 liquor; salt and remove the oysters; add a tablespoonful of 
 butter, the juice of half a lemon, a gill of cream, and a tea- 
 spoonful of flour. Beat up the yolk of one egg while the 
 sauce is simmering; add the egg, and simmer the whole 
 until it thickens. Place the oysters on a hot dish, pour the 
 sauce over them, sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top, 
 and send to table. (This is a favorite dish of Hotel Bruns- 
 wick habitues in New York.) 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Sir Henry Thompson says "that soups, whether 
 clear or thick, are far too lightly esteemed by most classes. 
 They are too often regarded as the mere prelude to a meal, to 
 be swallowed hastily or disregarded altogether." And the 
 Almanack des Gourmands tells us that ten folio volumes 
 would not contain the receipts of all the soups that have been 
 invented in the Parisian kitchen alone. 
 
 Soup Stock. — In making soups from raw meats break the 
 bones apart, place them in a pot, cover them with cold water, 
 and boil slowly for five or six hours; add salt to quicken the 
 rising of the scum, which should be thoroughly removed. Cut 
 up three carrots, three turnips, two heads of celery, and two 
 onions ; add to the stock, together with six or eight cloves, 
 a bouquet of herbs, and a teaspoonful of whole peppers; strain 
 into a deep saucepan, and clarify with the white of egg. It 
 will then be ready for an indefinite variety of soups. 
 
 Veal Stock. — Chop up three slices of bacon and two 
 pounds of the neck of vea,l; place in a stew-pan with a pint 
 of water or beef stock, and simmer half an hour; then add 
 two quarts of stock, one onion, a carrot, a bouquet of herbs, 
 four stalks of celery, half a teaspoonful of bruised whole 
 peppers, and a pinch of nutmeg with a teaspoonful of salt ; 
 boil gently for two hours, removing the scum in the mean- 
 time. Strain into an earthern crock, and when cold remove 
 the fat. A few bones of poultry added, with an additional 
 quantity of water or stock, will improve it. 
 
 Veal Broth. — Stew a knuckle of veal in about three quarts 
 of water; add two ounces of rice, a little salt, and a blade of 
 mace : boil until the liquor is reduced one-half. 
 
 Gumbo Soup. — Cut up two chickens, two slices of ham, and 
 two onions into dice ; flour them, and fry the whole to a 
 light brown; then fill the frying-pan with boiling water, stir 
 it a few minutes, and turn the whole into a saucepan con- 
 taining three quarts of boiling water ; let it boil forty min- 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 9 
 
 nfces, removing the scum. In the meantime soak three pints 
 of ochra in cold water twenty minutes; cut them into thin 
 slices, and add to the other ingredients ; let it boil one hour 
 and a half. Add a quart of canned tomatoes and a cupful of 
 boiled rice half an hour before serving. 
 
 Southern housekeepers use the leaves of the sassafras-tree 
 as a substitute for ochra when the latter is scarce and dear. 
 They gather the young leaves and spread them in the shade 
 for a few days; then they dry them in the sun. When they 
 are thoroughly dried they put them in a bag and hang them 
 up for two or three months ; they are then pulverized and 
 bottled. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup.— Take half a calf's head with the skin 
 on; remove the brains. Wash the head in several waters, and 
 let it soak in cold water for an hour. Put it in a saucepan 
 with five quarts of beef stock; let it simmer gently for an 
 hour; remove the scum carefully, take up the head, let it get 
 cold, and cut the meat from the bones into pieces an inch 
 square and set them in the ice-box. Dissolve two ounces of 
 butter in a frying-pan; mince a large onion and fry it in the 
 butter until nicely browned, and add to the stock in which 
 the head was cooked. Return the bones to the stock; simmer 
 the soup, removing the scum until no more rises. Put in a 
 carrot, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, a bouquet of herbs, a 
 dozen outer stalks of celery, two blades of mace, and the rind 
 of one lemon, grated; salt and pepper to taste. Boil gently for 
 two hours, and strain the soup through a flannel cloth. Mix 
 three ounces of Barlow's prepared browned flour with a pint 
 of the soup, and simmer until it thickens; then add it to the 
 soup. Take the pieces of head out of the ice-box and add 
 to the soup ; let them simmer until quite tender. " Before 
 serving add a little Worcestershire sauce, a tablespoonful of 
 anchovy paste, a gobletful of port or sherry, and two lemons 
 sliced, each slice cut into quarters with the rind trimmed off." 
 Warm the wine a very little before adding it to the soup. 
 Keep in ice-box three or four days before using. Serve the 
 brains as a side-dish. 
 
10 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Pea Soup. — Cat two large slices of ham into dice with a 
 sliced onion, and fry them in a little bacon fat until they are 
 lightly browned. Out up one turnip, one large carrot, four 
 outer stalks of celery, and one leek into small pieces; add 
 these last ingredients to the ham and onion, and let them 
 simmer for fifteen minutes; then pour over them three 
 quarts of corned-beef water or hot water, and add a pint of 
 split peas which have been soaked in cold water all night; 
 boil gently until the peas are quite tender, stirring constant- 
 ly to prevent burning; then add salt and pepper to taste, 
 with a teaspoonful of brown sugar. Eemove the soup from 
 the fire and rub through a sieve ; if it is not thick enough 
 to suit your taste or fancy add a few ounces of flour mixed 
 smoothly in a little cold milk; return the soup to the fire, 
 and simmer for half an hour. Cut up four slices of Ameri- 
 can bread into small dice, and fry the pieces in very hot fat 
 until nicely browned ; place them on a napkin or towel, 
 and add a few of them to each plate or tureen of soup just 
 before it goes to table. 
 
 Economical Pea Soup. — Boil two quarts of green-pea hulls 
 in four quarts of water, in which beef, mutton, or fowl has 
 been boiled, four hours; then add a bunch or bouquet of 
 herbs, salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of butter, and a quart 
 of milk. Eub through a hair-sieve, thicken with a little 
 flour, and serve with croutons, as in the foregoing receipt. 
 
 Tomato Soup. — Cut four ounces of ham into dice; slice 
 two onions and fry with ham in two ounces of butter; when 
 browned turn them into a saucepan containing three quarts 
 of stock or corned-beef water, and add three carrots, two 
 turnips, one red pepper (lady-finger), and a dozen outer 
 stalks of celery; simmer gently for one hour, then add a 
 quart of canned tomatoes; boil gently for another hour, rub 
 the whole through a sieve, and simmer again with the liquor 
 a few minutes; add salt and serve with croutons. 
 
 Oxtail Soup. — Take two oxtails; cut them into joints, and 
 cut up each joint into four pieces; put them into a pan with 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 11 
 
 two ounces of butter, and fry them ten minutes. Slice two 
 onions, one turnip, two carrots, a dozen outer stalks of 
 celery, and fry in the same butter, with three slices of bacon 
 cut up fine; fry to a light brown. Turn the ingredients into 
 a saucepan with a quart of stock or ham-water, and boil 
 quickly for half an hour; then add two more quarts of stock, 
 a bouquet of herbs, two bay-leaves, a dozen whole peppers 
 crushed, a few cloves, and salt to taste. 
 
 Simmer until the meat is quite tender; then take it out, 
 strain the soup, skim off the fat, and thicken with two 
 ounces of Barlow's prepared flour; return the meat to the 
 soup, add a tablespoonful of Worcestershire, a cupful of 
 sherry, and serve with grated rusks. 
 
 Chicken Soup. — Take three young male chickens; cut them 
 up, put them in a saucepan with three quarts of veal stock; 
 a sliced carrot, one turnip, and one head of celery may be 
 put with them and removed before the soup is thickened. 
 Let them simmer for an hour. Remove all the white flesh; 
 return the rest of the birds to the soup, and boil gently for 
 two hours. Pour a little of the liquid over a quarter of a 
 pound of the crumbs of bread, and when they are well soaked 
 put it in a mortar with the white flesh of the birds, and 
 pound the whole to a smooth paste ; add a pinch of ground 
 mace, salt, and a little cayenne pepper, press the mixture 
 through a sieve, and boil once more, adding a pint of boiling 
 cream; thicken with a very little flour mixed in cold milk, 
 remove the bones, and serve. 
 
 Chicken Soup, No. 2. — Cut up one chicken; put into a 
 stew-pan two quarts of cold water, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 one pod of red pepper (lady-finger); when half done add 
 two dessert-spoonfuls of well-washed rice. When thorough- 
 ly cooked remove the bird from the soup, tear a part of the 
 breast into shreds (saving the balance of the fowl for a 
 salad), and add it to the soup with a wineglassful of cream. 
 
 Beef Tea. — Take half a pound of lean beef ; cut it 
 up into small bits; let it soak in a pint of water three-quar- 
 
12 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 ters of an hour, then put both into a quart champagne 
 bottle with just a suspicion of salt; cork tightly, and wire 
 the cork, so as to prevent its popping out. Set the bottle 
 into a saucepanful of warm water, boil gently an hour and a 
 half, and strain through a napkin. 
 
 Beef tea administered often to a patient without the fibrine 
 of the meat will tend to weaken instead of strengthen- 
 ing the invalid. I always add about a teaspoonful of finely- 
 chopped raw meat to a goblet of the tea, and let it stand in 
 the tea about five minutes before serving. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Codfish is about the best fish that comes to our market, 
 but it is so cheap and plentiful that we do not appreciate it 
 quite as much as we would if the price was twenty-five cents 
 a pound and its season to last not over two months. Trout 
 and all delicate fish lose their flavor long before they reach 
 New York, and they should be eaten within half an hour 
 after they are caught; while the cod improves in flavor if 
 kept for a day or two with the addition of a little salt to 
 give it firmness. 
 
 The " shoulder part" pleases my palate the most. Have 
 you ever tried a codfish steak for breakfast, dredged in corn- 
 meal and fried in salt pork-fat ? It is splendid. A rasher 
 of bacon served with it does no harm. 
 
 In broiling cod, haddock, bass, etc., always tie them up 
 in a bag or towel, and lay the fish in the fish-pan, adding a 
 little salt, a pint of Ehine wine, or cupful of vinegar, and 
 cover the fish with cold water, allowing it to boil gently till 
 done. Drawn-butter sauce with boiled fish is easy to 
 make and pleases almost everybody. 
 
 Baked Cod. — When purchasing a four-pound cod ask your 
 fish-dealer to send you three or four " codfish-heads," and 
 as soon as the basket comes into the house rub a little salt 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 13 
 
 on the fish, chop the heads into six pieces each, and sprinkle 
 a little salt over them. Place them in the centre of the bak- 
 ing-pan (to be used as supports for the fish), with two ounces 
 of batter, one carrot, a turnip, a potato, and one onion cut 
 into slices, two blades of mace, a teaspoonful white pepper, 
 one tablespoonful celery-seed, six cloves, and a cupful of red 
 wine. Set the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod. 
 
 Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of bread to fill 
 the fish; drain off the water and pound the bread to a paste; 
 mix with it two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two raw 
 eggs, a tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, with salt and 
 pepper to taste. Put this stuffing inside the fish and sew it 
 up ; place the cod in the pan with two or three pieces of but- 
 ter on the upper side of the fish, and baste it frequently; 
 when it is cooked lay the fish on a hot platter, and garnish 
 with fried oysters, if convenient. Add two tablespoonfuls of 
 Barlow's prepared flour to the pan, a wineglass of sherry; 
 mix, and strain the gravy into a sauce-boat. 
 
 Salt Codfish with Cream. — Soak one pound and a half of 
 salt codfish over-night. Next morning set the fish to sim- 
 mer for about two hours; drain off the water and strip the 
 fish into shreds; place it in a saucepan with a quart of milk 
 and two ounces of butter; mix a tablespoonful of flour with 
 two tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and add to the fish. Let the 
 whole come to a boil, remove the dish from the fire, beat up 
 one egg to a froth, add it to the fish, stir, and serve im- 
 mediately. 
 
 Salt Mackerel Broiled. — Soak a No. 2 chicken mackerel in 
 cold water over- night; pour off the water and let the fish 
 stand in milk enough to cover it for one hour before broil- 
 ing; baste the fish with butter, and broil. When clone 
 plunge the fish into hot water for one minute, and send to 
 table with a dish of melted butter, the juice of one lemon, 
 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley mixed together. 
 
 Broiled Lobster (for breakfast). — Cut the tail part of a lob- 
 ster in two, rub a little sweet-oil over the meat, and broil. 
 
14 Valuable CooTc'ng Receipts. 
 
 When done brush a little butter over it, with the juice of half 
 a lemon and just the suspicion of cayenne. Place the meat 
 back into the shell, and send to table with a dish of broiled 
 tomatoes and a fresh-baked potato. 
 
 Lobster en Brochette. — Cut up the tail of a lobster into 
 square pieces; take a few thin slices of bacon and cut into 
 lengths to match the pieces of lobster; place them on a 
 skewer alternately, and broil; baste as in " broiled lobster," 
 and send to table on a bed of water-cress. 
 
 Baked Shad. — Make a dressing of bread-crumbs, butter, 
 pepper, and salt worked to a paste; fill the shad with the mix- 
 ture, sew it up, and place it lengthwise in a baking-pan with 
 a little water and an ounce of butter. Fill the space be- 
 tween the fish and the sides of the pan with slices of raw 
 potatoes one-fourth of an inch thick, and serve fish and 
 potatoes together. Add a spoonful of Barlow's prepared 
 flour to the gravy, and serve. 
 
 "Tenderloin" Trout. — Take a large catfish and cut it up 
 into pieces two inches in length and one inch in thickness. 
 Beat up three eggs with a little salt and pepper and a tea- 
 spoonful of Worcestershire; dip the fish in the egg-batter, 
 and roll in corn-meal or bread-crumbs. Fry a deep brown, 
 garnish with lemon, parsley, or celery-tops, and send to table 
 with a cucumber salad. 
 
 Fricasseed Eels. — Cut up three pounds of eels into pieces 
 of three inches in length; put them into a stew-pan, and 
 cover them with Rhine wine (or two-thirds water and one- 
 third vinegar); add fifteen oysters, two pieces of lemon, a 
 bouquet of herbs, one onion quartered, six cloves, three 
 stalks celery, a pinch of cayenne, pepper and salt to taste. 
 Stew the eels one hour; remove them from the dish; strain 
 the liquor. Put it back into the stew-pan with a gill of 
 cream and an ounce of butter rolled in flour; simmer gently 
 a few minutes, pour over the fish, and serve with a toasted 
 milk cracker. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 15 
 
 Soyer's Boiled Salmon. — I always prefer dressing this fish 
 in slices from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling it in 
 plenty of salt and water twenty minutes. The whole fish 
 may be boiled, but it requires longer boiling. Salmon eats 
 firmer by not putting it into water until it is boiling. Dress 
 the fish upon a napkin and serve with lobster-sauce, or plain 
 melted butter with a few sprigs of parsley boiled a few 
 minutes in it. 
 
 I generally boil a salmon whole, or head and shoulders in 
 one piece, with salt, and cover the fish with equal parts of 
 warm water and Rhine wine, two or three bay-leaves, a few 
 cloves, etc. When done I use the water in making sauce by 
 reducing one-half, adding butter rolled in flour to thicken, 
 pinch of cayenne, and the juice of one lemon. 
 
 Eel Patties. — Take three medium-sized eels and cut them 
 up into inch pieces. Put them in a stew-pan, add salt, and 
 cover them with cold water. When the water comes to a 
 boil take them off the fire, wash them in cold water, scrape 
 off any fat that m «.y adhere, return them to the stew-pan with 
 just enough hot water to cover them, and add a blade of mace, 
 a bay-leaf, a few whole peppers, a few sprigs of parsley, and 
 one lemon cut into slices. Stew gently until the fish will 
 separate from the bone ; remove the fish from the broth, pick 
 it into small pieces, and set them aside ; reduce the broth a 
 little, strain, and thicken with flour and butter. Return the 
 fish to the broth, simmer a moment, fill your patties and 
 serve ; make patty-shells as directed for oyster patties. 
 
 Drawn-Butter Sauce. — Season a cupful of flour with salt, 
 pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg, mix it with some water into 
 a paste, and work in a piece of butter about the size of an 
 egg ; put the pan over the fire and boil for twenty minutes ; 
 tli en take it off, add some fresh butter in small portions at a 
 time, stirring continually to prevent the butter from rising to 
 the top. Add the juice of half a lemon before serving. 
 
 Maitre d'Hotel Butter. — Mix four ounces of butter with a 
 heaping tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper, 
 and the juice of three lemons ; serve with boiled fish, etc. 
 
16 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce. — An easy way of making anchovy sauce is 
 to stir two or three teaspoonfuls of prepared essence or paste 
 of anchovy (which may be bought at your grocer's) into a 
 pint of melted butter ; let the sauce boil a few minutes, and 
 flavor with lemon -juice. 
 
 Lobster Sauce. — Break the shell of the lobster into small 
 pieces. Pour over them one pint of water or veal-stock and 
 a pinch of salt ; simmer gently until the liquid is reduced 
 one-half. Mix two ounces of butter with an ounce of flour, 
 strain the liquid upon it, and stir all over the fire until the 
 mixture thickens ; do not let it boil. Add two tablespoonfuls 
 of the lobster-meat, the juice of half a lemon, and serve. 
 
 The spawn and coral mixed with double the quantity of 
 butter, a little cayenne, and pounded in a mortar to a paste, 
 then pressed through a hair-sieve, is called lobster-butter ; a 
 spoonful of it added to the sauce will improve it ; the rest of 
 the butter may be used in garnishing and decorating cold 
 salmon, etc. 
 
 Caper Sauce. — Chop up two tablespoonfuls of capers and 
 add them to half a pint of melted butter, with the piece of 
 one lemon, a teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce, and a pinch 
 of cayenne ; put on the fire and simmer a few minutes ; mix a 
 teaspoonful of flour with a very little cold water, and add to 
 the sauce. 
 
 Celery Sauce. — Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, 
 melt it, and add two heads of celery cut up into inch pieces ; 
 stir the celery in the pan until it is quite tender ; add salt 
 and pepper, with a little mace. Mix a tablespoonful of flour 
 in a cupful of stock and simmer half an hour. A cupful of 
 cream may be used instead of the stock. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. — Blanch one dozen oysters in their own 
 liquor ; then take the oysters out and add two blades of mace, 
 an ounce of melted butter, and a cupful of thickened cream ; 
 return the oysters to the sauce, let them come to a boil, and 
 serve ; salt to taste. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 17 
 
 Oyster Sauce, No. 2. — Take a dozen large oysters and boil 
 them in their own liquor two minutes ; remove them from 
 the liquid, and quarter them. Mix an ounce of butter and an 
 ounce of flour in a stew-pan, add the oyster liquor, a pinch 
 of cayenne or two drops tobasco pepper-sauce, with a little 
 nutmeg and half a pint of cream. Stir the whole gently 
 over the fire until the sauce is smooth and thick. Add the 
 pieces of oysters, simmer a moment longer, and serve. 
 
 Egg Sauce. — Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan 
 with a dessert-spoonful of flour and a very little water ; sim- 
 mer gently. When ready to boil take the saucepan from 
 the fire and stir in two ounces more of butter and three cold 
 hard-boiled eggs cut up small ; sprinkle a little salt on the 
 egg- 
 Dutch Sauce. — Blend together two ounces of butter and a 
 teaspoonful of flour; put it into a stew-pan with equal quan- 
 tities of stock and vinegar (from the bottle containing im- 
 ported mixed pickles), say a wineglassful of each ; stir for 
 two minutes, and add the beaten yolks of two eggs, keeping up 
 the stirring till the mixture thickens ; if you let it boil it 
 will curdle. Add the juice of half a lemon before serving. 
 
 Gravy for Baked Fish. — Brown a sliced onion in a little 
 butter and add gradually a pint of stock; thicken with ata- 
 blespoonful of Barlow's prepared flour, and let the mixture 
 simmer with a bunch of parsley nearly half an hour; strain 
 the gravy and add salt and a teaspoonful walnut-catsup. 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 Before boiling joints of meat the cook should think for a mo- 
 ment whether she desires the juices to go into the water, as 
 in soup, gravies, etc., or to be retained in the meat itself. 
 If they are to be retained put the meat into fast-boiling 
 water, and let it boil for ten minutes to make the outside 
 hard and thus prevent the juice escaping; then add cold 
 
18 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 water equal in quantity to about one-half of the boiling water ; 
 this will reduce the temperature to about 160° (Liebig), at 
 which point the meat (raw) should be kept until thoroughly 
 done, which, however, takes a much longer time than the 
 ordinary mode. Care must be taken to remove the scum 
 when the water is on the point of boiling, or it will quickly 
 sink and spoil the appearance of the meat. 
 
 If it is desired to extract the juice from raw meat, cover 
 it with cold water and simmer slowly as before. 
 
 Salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh meat. 
 
 Dried and smoked meat should be soaked for some hours 
 before it is put into the water. Place your meat in a sauce- 
 pan sufficiently large to contain the joint easily and cover 
 with water, and no more. 
 
 Boiled Leg of Mutton. — Cut off the shank-bone, trim the 
 knuckle, and wash the mutton; put it into a pot with salt and 
 cover with boiling water. Allow it to boil a few minutes; 
 skim the surface clean, draw your pot to the side of the fire, 
 and simmer until done. Time, from two to two hours and 
 a half. 
 
 Do not try the leg with a fork to determine whether it 
 is done or not. You will lose all the juices of the meat by so 
 doing. 
 
 Serve with caper sauce, or melted butter with a few small 
 capers added. 
 
 The liquor from the boiling may be converted into soup 
 with the addition of a ham-bone and a few vegetables boiled 
 together. 
 
 English housekeepers hang up a leg of mutton from two 
 days to at least a week before using, weather allowing. 
 
 Corned Beef. — Put your corned beef in a saucepan or pot 
 and cover with cold water ; boil gently until done. Allow 
 half an hour to the pound after it has come to a boil. 
 
 The ingredients used in making a pickle for corned beef 
 harden the fibres of the meat, so that to plunge it into hot 
 water would not only make it tough and hard but indiges- 
 tible. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 19 
 
 Boiled Tongue. — Soak a smoked or dry tongue over-night. 
 Next morning set it in a pot of water and simmer slowly for 
 five or six hours. Eemove the pot from the fire, and when 
 the water has cooled take out the tongue, tear off the skin, 
 and trim off the ragged end. 
 
 Boiled Ham. — Soak the ham over-night; scrape off the 
 rus'y spots, put into a pot, and cover with plenty of cold 
 water; add a bouquet of herbs and a few cloves to the water, 
 and boil very slowly until done; remove the pot from the 
 fire, and when cold take out the ham, take off the skin, trim 
 the fat off around the edge. Take half a cupful of brown 
 sugar, a teaspoonful of prepared browned flour, and moisten 
 with port wine; cover this paste over the fat of the ham, and 
 set it in a very hot oven until the mixture froths. 
 
 Boiled Chicken. — Wash a chicken in lukewarm water; truss 
 it, put it into hot water, let it come to a boil, then draw it 
 to one side of the fire and let it simmer gently until ready; 
 remove the scum as it rises. The more slowly it boils the 
 whiter and tenderer it will be. Add a very little salt, and 
 half a lemon cut into small pieces, to the water before boil- 
 ing. Serve with any white or cream sauce. 
 
 Boiled Turkey. — Cassell's work on cookery tells us that 
 "there is an old proverb which says that a turkey boiled is a 
 turkey spoiled, but in this couplet there is more rhyme than 
 reason, as a boiled turkey forms a dainty dish, most accept- 
 able to persons with dulicate stomachs, who fear the richness 
 of the roasted bird." Take a plump hen-turkey, singe, draw 
 it, and truss as you would to roast ; make a stuffing of herbs, 
 salt, pepper, bread-crumbs, a little mace and grated lemon - 
 peel, with a few oysters chopped up, a spoonful of butter, and 
 a raw egg; mix your dressing well together, fill the bird, and 
 sew it up; tie up the turkey in a flowered cloth to make it 
 white, and simmer until tender. Time, about two hours and 
 a half. 
 
 Serve with oyster sauce. 
 
20 Valuable Cooking Receipts* 
 
 Boiled Capon. — Boil a capon as you would a large chicken, 
 add a bouquet of herbs to the water, and serve with egg 
 sauce. 
 
 When a boiled fowl has been so far used that meat slices 
 cannot be carved from it, the remains may be cut up for 
 hash, seasoned with salt and pepper, moistened with hot 
 water (or the water in which the fowl has been boiled); stir 
 the dish while it is simmering to prevent burning; serve on 
 a piece of buttered toast, and place two poached eggs on top 
 of the hash for each person. Or mince the remains of fowl 
 very fine with an equal quantity of calf's brains or sweet- 
 breads; season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg; add a lit- 
 tle cracker-dust, two raw eggs; moisten with Rhine wine or 
 cream, mix well together, roll into balls the size of an egg, dip 
 into egg batter, then into crumbs, and fry in very hot fat. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Fillet of Beef. — Cut the fillet (tenderloin) out of a sirloin of 
 beef ; trim olf the fat and the sack or skin, and lard it with 
 fat pork cut into narrow strips two inches long. Put each 
 strip of pork (or bacon) into a larding-needle, and with the 
 point of your needle take up as much flesh as will hold the 
 strip of pork, allowing abou half an inch of each end ex- 
 posed after removing the needle; repeat this process as 
 neatly and as evenly as possible and at equal distances until 
 finished. Rub a little sweet oil and salt over the fillet ; set 
 it one side a few minutes while you prepare the roasting 
 (baking) pan for it. 
 
 Chop up into small pieces a few beef or veal bones, and 
 cover the bottom of your pan with them. Add three slices 
 of bacon, two carrots, two onions, and one turnip sliced, 
 with a pint of stock. Season with salt, bruised whole pep- 
 pers, a bay-leaf, a few cloves, and a blade of mace. Place 
 the fillet in the pan with the larded side up. Moisten it with 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 21 
 
 a wineglassful of vinegar, and bake. When done remove 
 the fillet, add a tablespoonful of Barlow's prepared flour and 
 a glass of sherry or port to the pan, mix, and strain the sauce 
 on to the fillet. Chop up half a dozen button-mushrooms, 
 sprinkle over the meat, and serve. 
 
 Beef a la Mode. — Take three pounds of fresh rump of beef; 
 remove the fat and sinews. Cut fat bacon into long strips and 
 lard the meat with it through and through. Mix together 
 a few cloves, mace, allspice, whole peppers, salt-spoonful of 
 cayenne, a tablespoonful of powdered herbs, and a clove of 
 garlic, with half a pint of vinegar. Put the meat into an 
 earthen crock or deep stew-pan, with a thin piece of bacon 
 under it ; add the vinegar and seasoning and a pint of stock, 
 with a walnut of butter rolled in flour. Cover the crock and 
 simmer gently until done. When preferred vegetables may 
 be added and served with the beef, allowing plenty of stock 
 or water for them to boil nicely. 
 
 Beef Stew. — Take a three pound piece of rump of beef ; re- 
 move the bone, bind it up tight, and put it in a pot or stew- 
 pan that will just hold it. Season with ground spices. Fry 
 two large onions sliced, and add them to it, with two carrots, 
 two turnips, a few cloves, a blade of mace, a head of celery, 
 and a potato quartered ; add stock enough to cover the 
 meat. Simmer as gently as possible until quite tender. 
 Remove the fat, take out the meat, and add half a pint of 
 port, a wineglassful of vinegar, a tablespoonful Worcester- 
 shire sauce to the gravy ; strain over the meat, and serve 
 with a garnish of assorted vegetables arranged neatly around 
 the dish. 
 
 Beefsteak Pie. — Cover the sides of a raised pie-mould with 
 butter, and put a lining of paste made in the following man- 
 ner neatly into it : Chop a quarter of a pound of suet ; put 
 it into a stew-pan with the same quantity of butter and a 
 pint of water. When boiling pass them through a sieve in- 
 to two pounds of flour, and stir it with a spoon until cold. 
 When the paste is quite smooth roll it out and it is ready 
 
22 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 for the lining. Cut up two pounds of round or rump steak 
 into pieces about two inches square ; dust them with flour ; 
 season with parsley, salt, and pepper; lay them round the 
 mould; fill it with alternate layers of potatoes cut into quar- 
 ters, and meat. Make a lid for the mould with some of the 
 paste, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake three hours. 
 Put an ornamental centre to the cover, that it may be more 
 easily raised to throw in some gravy as soon as it is baked. 
 
 Calfs Head. — The first thing to do on receiving a calf's 
 head is to remove the brains, throw them into cold water for 
 an hour, drain, then boil them in salt and water for twenty 
 minutes, and set them aside. 
 
 Put the head into cold water and wash it well, and leave 
 it there to draw out the blood for an hour ; then take it out 
 and dry it well with a towel. 
 
 Bone a calf's head in the following manner : Place the 
 calf's head on the table with the front part of the head fac- 
 ing you ; draw the sharp point of a knife from the back part 
 of the head right down to the nose, making an incision down 
 to the bone of the skull ; then with the knife clear the scalp 
 and cheeks from the bones right and left, always keeping the 
 point of the knife close to the bone. If you have not pre- 
 viously removed the brains, chop the head in two and re- 
 move them as carefully as possible. 
 
 When the head has been boned wash it w r ell, wipe it with 
 a clean cloth, season the inside with salt and pepper, roll it 
 up witli the tongue, tie it up, and blanch it in hot water for 
 ten minutes ; then put it into cold water a few minutes, wipe 
 it dry, and set it aside until w r anted. 
 
 Fried Calf's Head. — Cut the prepared calf's head into 
 pieces two inches wide ; lay them for three hours in a pickle 
 made of two tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a wiuegiassful of 
 Rhine wine, salt and pepper, and a pinch of mace. Take 
 them out, drain them, and dip each piece in egg-batter ; 
 roll in cracker-dust, fry in hot fat, and send to table with 
 sauce tartare. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 23 
 
 Sauce Tartare. — Mince two small English pickles, one- 
 fourth of an onion, and a few sprigs of parsley together. 
 Acid them to three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, and 
 the juice of half a lemon. Mix and serve (see mayonnaise 
 sauce). A few tarragon-leaves will improve the sauce. 
 
 Calf's Head, Maitre d'Hotel. — Cut up your prepared calf's 
 head into neat slices, and simmer gently for two hours; take 
 out the pieces of meat, place on a hot dish, and cover them 
 with Maitre d'Hotel sauce; garnish with parsley. 
 
 Calf s Head Broiled. — Cut up a prepared calf's head into 
 pieces quite three inches wide; place them in a saucepan, 
 cover with water. Add a wineglassful of vinegar, and sim- 
 mer half an hour; then place them in cold water a few 
 minutes, dry them on a towel, rub a little sweet-oil over each 
 piece, and broil. When done brush melted butter over 
 them with the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 Calf s Head Collared. — Bone a calf's head carefully, wash it 
 well, and wipe it dry; lay the head on the table, and spread on it 
 a force-meat made of the brain and tongue, and a very little 
 ham mixed with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a tea- 
 spoonful of thyme, a teaspoonful of marjoram, the minced 
 yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, a wineglassful brandy, and a 
 little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll the head as tightly as pos- 
 sible, and tie it in a cloth, binding it with tape. Put it into 
 a saucepan with stock enough to cover it, and add a carrot, 
 a parsnip, one onion, a sliced lemon, a few bay-leaves, salt, 
 and a dozen bruised peppers. 
 
 Let it boil gently three hours; then take it out of the cloth 
 and pour round it a sauce made of a pint of the liquid in 
 which it was boiled, with a little lemon- juice, two small 
 pickles, and four button-mushrooms chopped fine. 
 
 Calf's Brains en Matelotte. — Wash the brains in several 
 waters, remove the skin, and boil them in salt and water with 
 a little vinegar in it for ten minutes. Take them out and 
 lay them in cold water until wanted. Melt a tablespoonful 
 of butter in a saucepan, and mix with it a teaspoonful of 
 
24 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 flour. Add three button-onions sliced, a teaspoonful Wor- 
 cestershire, a clove, a bay-leaf, half a pint of stock, and a 
 wineglassful of Rhine wine. When these are mixed tho- 
 roughly together put the brains with them and let them 
 stew twenty minutes. 
 
 Calf s Brains Fried. — Prepare the brains as in the forego- 
 ing receipt. Cut them into slices, dip them in egg-batter, 
 roll in crumbs, and fry in hot fat or butter; garnish with 
 lried parsley. 
 
 Calf s Brains and Tongue. — Prepare the brains as hereto- 
 fore recommended, and chop them. Put them in a sauce- 
 pan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, a little chopped 
 parsley, the juice of half a lemon, salt, and cayenne pepper. 
 Skin and trim the boiled tongue, place it in the middle of 
 the dish and pour the sauce and brains round it, and send 
 to table. 
 
 Stewed Sweet-Breads. — Soak two sweet-breads in cold 
 water for one hour; change the water twice; put them in 
 boiling water ten minutes till they are firm, then take them 
 out and place them in cold water until wanted. 
 
 Place them in a stew-pan, cover them with stock, and 
 simmer nearly an hour; take them out, place them on a hot 
 dish, remove the gravy from the fire a minute, and add to it 
 gradually the yolk of an egg and four tablespoonfuls of 
 cream; put this over a fire till the sauce thickens, but do not 
 let it boil. Before serving add the jnice of a lemon, pour the 
 sauce around the sweet-breads, and send to table with a dish 
 of green peas. 
 
 They may be cut up and fried after dipping in egg and 
 rolled in crumbs. 
 
 Sweet-breads are very nice broiled and served with Maitre 
 d'Horel butter ; garnish with parsley. 
 
 Pork Chops, Tomato Sauce. — Broil three nice pork chops, 
 and when well done sprinkle them with pepper and salt, 
 place on a hot dish, and serve with tomato sauce poured 
 around them. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 15 
 
 Tomato Sauce. — Stew half a dozen tomatoes in a pint of 
 stock, with a slice of ham cut into dice, a bay-leaf, a blade 
 of mace, three drops of tabasco pepper-sauce, and three 
 small pickled onions; stir the whole over a gentle fire until 
 done, then press them through a sieve, add salt, and put the 
 sauce again upon the fire till it is very hot. 
 
 Pork tenderloin baked or broiled is acceptable with sauce 
 Robert. 
 
 Sauce Robert. — Slice two onions, and fry them in butter 
 until they begin to turn yellow; pour over them as much 
 brown gravy as will cover them; add a tablespoonful of 
 French or German mustard (do not use English mustard), 
 a teaspoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper. Simmer 
 very gently, adding more gravy, if necessary, till the onions 
 are tender. Rub them through a fine sieve. Mix with the 
 pulp a very little more stock or gravy, and boil once. This is 
 a simple recipe, and one that any housekeeper can easily 
 make. 
 
 Pork Sausages. — The most wholesome way to cook sausa- 
 ges is to bake them. Place them in a baking-pan in a single 
 layer, and bake in a moderate oven; turn them over when 
 they are half done, that they may be equally browned all 
 over. Send to table with pieces of toast between each sau- 
 sage. Cut the toast about the same size as the sausage, and 
 moisten it with a very li t tie of the sausnge-fat. 
 
 They make a nice entree by placing them on a mound of 
 mashed potatoes and served with apple-sauce, or small apple- 
 fritters neatly arranged round them. 
 
 About the best sausages that come to the New York market 
 are the Deerfoot Farm sausages; fancy grocers retail them 
 for about twenty cents a pound. Split them in two and 
 broil them, and send to table with Boston brown-bread toast, 
 buttered. Use your sausage-fat for frying hash, etc. 
 
 Breast of Mutton with Peas. — Cut up two pounds of the 
 breast of mutton into square pieces; put them into a stew-pan 
 with an ounc3 of butter, and brown them nicely; then cover 
 
26 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 with hot water and stew for an hour. Take the meat from 
 the pan and skim all the fat from the gravy ; place the meat 
 in a clean saucepan with one onion sliced, a bouquet of herbs, 
 pepper and salt; pour in the gravy, and stew for one hour; add 
 a quart of young peas, remove the herbs, simmer fifteen min- 
 utes, and serve. 
 
 String beans cut into dice, or boiled macaroni, may be sub- 
 stituted for the peas. 
 
 Curry of Mutton. — Put six button-onions, cut fine, and an 
 ounce of butter into a saucepan with an ounce of curry-pow- 
 der, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of flour, and half a 
 pint of cream ; stir until smooth. Remove the bones from 
 two pounds of mutton, cut it into neat pieces, and fry a light 
 brown ; put the meat into a saucepan, pour the sauce over it, 
 and boil gently one hour and a half. Place the meat on a 
 hot dish and arrange a border of broiled rice neatly round it. 
 
 Cold boiled mutton cut into slices may be used instead of 
 the raw meat. 
 
 Veal may be used instead of mutton. 
 
 Mutton Hash with Poached Eggs. — Take a pound and a 
 half of the remains of roast mutton, chop it up fine, and put 
 it in a stew-pan with a cupful of mutton gravy or stock; 
 season with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; add a 
 tablespoonful of Barlow's prepared flour, and let the meat heat 
 gradually until hot. Do not let it boil. Simmer tAventy min- 
 utes, and serve with poached eggs placed neatly round the dish. 
 
 A spoonful of Worcestershire sauce may be added to the 
 dish, if desired. 
 
 Eagout of Mutton. — Slice two turnips, two carrots, and 
 two onions ; put them in a saucepan with two ounces of 
 butter, and brown them. Dust in a little flour and stir the 
 whole to prevent browning too quickly, and turn them out 
 upon a hot dish until wanted. 
 
 Cut up cold roast mutton into square pieces, and brown 
 them on each side in the same pan in which you browned 
 your vegetables ; then add half a pint of hot water, salt and 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 27 
 
 pepper, a few sprigs of parsley, and the sliced vegetables. 
 Stew gently until the vegetables are tender ; arrange the 
 vegetables in the centre of the dish, with the meat as a bor- 
 der; pour the sauce over all, and serve. 
 
 Mutton Pie. — Cut into square pieces about two pounds of 
 cold roast or boiled mutton; trim off a portion of the fat; quar- 
 ter three kidneys; put the meat into a pie dish, season with 
 two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of 
 powdered herbs, salt and pepper, and half an onion minced ; 
 add half a pint of light- stock or water, a wineglassful of port 
 wine; cover the dish with puff paste, brush an egg over it, and 
 bake an hour and a half. 
 
 Cold lamb makes a very nice pie. 
 
 Veal Croquettes. — Kemove the gristle, skin, and sinews 
 from a pound of cold veal; mince it finely with four ounces of 
 cold boiled beef or calf's tongue ; season with salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg. Put i'lto a saucepan an ounce of butter rolled 
 in flour, a wineglassful of cream; add the minced meat, and 
 stir for twenty minutes over a slow fire. (If too dry moisten 
 with stock.) Turn the preparation upon a round pie-board; 
 spread it to a smooth layer about an inch thick, and set it in 
 the ice-box to get cold and stiff. It must then be divided 
 into about two dozen pieces, each piece rolled into the form 
 of a cork or round ball over bread-crumbs, then dipped in 
 beaten egg and again rolled in crumbs. Handle carefully so 
 as not to break them. Fry in boiling fat. 
 
 Fricassee of Veal. — Take two pounds of lean veal free from 
 skin and bone, and cut it into pieces convenient for serving ; 
 fry them in melted butter until the flesh is firm without 
 having acquired any color ; dredge a tablespoonful of flour 
 upon them, add a little grated lemon-peel, and gradually as 
 much boiling veal-stock as will cover t'ie meat ; simmer 
 until tender. Take out the meat and add to the gravy a gill 
 of boiling cream, salt, cayenne, and a pinch of powdered mace. 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl ; add gradually a little 
 of the sauce (after it has cooled a few minutes), then add it 
 
28 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 carefully to the remainder. Return the meat to the sauce, 
 and let the saucepan remain near the fire until the eggs are 
 set. Add the juice of halt* a lemon and serve immediately. 
 
 Fricassee of Lamb. — Take a breast of lamb and cut it into 
 pieces about an inch and a half square ; season with salt and 
 pepper. Put them into a saucepan, with a quartered onion, 
 three cloves, a bay-leaf, and three ounces of bu'ter. Cover 
 the saucepan closely, and let it steam gently for half an hour, 
 shaking it occasionally to prevent sticking. Add a pint of 
 boiling water ; cover closely once more and boil gently for 
 one hour ; then strain the sauce and thicken with a table- 
 spoonful of flour (mix the flour smoothly with a little cold 
 water before adding it to the sauce), boil a moment longer, 
 and serve. 
 
 A tablespoonf ul of very small A. G-. caj^ers may be added 
 before serving. 
 
 Breast of Lamb with Asparagus Tops. — Remove the skin 
 and part of the fat from a breasi of lamb, and cut it into neat 
 pieces ; dredge a little flour over them, and place them in a 
 stew-pan with an ounce of butter ; let them remain until 
 nicely browned ; cover the meat with warm water, add a 
 bunch of parsley, two button onions; simmer until the meat 
 is cooked; skim off the fat, take out the onions and parsley, 
 and mince the latter finely ; return it to the gravy with a 
 pint of the tops of boiled asparagus, add salt and pepper, 
 simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. Canned asparagus 
 may be used when the fresh vegetable is out of season. 
 
 Fricassee of Chicken. — Take the remains of a cold chicken, 
 cut it into joints, make a gravy by simmering the trimmings 
 in stock enough to cover them, with one onion, stock with 
 three cloves, a bouquet of herbs,- salt and pepper. Simmer 
 the gravy for one hour ; strain and thicken a cupful of it 
 with a teaspoonful of flour ; let this boil, then put in the 
 chicken. Draw the sauce-pan from the fire a few minutes, 
 mix a little of the sauce with the beaten yolks of two eggs 
 and a cupful of cream. Add this last mixture to the sauce- 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 29 
 
 pan, let it get hot, but on no account allow it to boil, or the 
 eggs will curdle. Serve with the sauce poured over the 
 chicken, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top. 
 
 Fried Chicken. — Take the remains of a cold chicken, place 
 it in a pan, and simmer with an ounce of butter, a finely- 
 chopped onion, the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper ; let 
 them simmer nearly half an hour ; take the pieces out and 
 dredge them in flour, and fry in boiling fat; turn the pieces 
 over while cooking, and fry a deep brown. 
 
 Make a dressing of flour, mixed smoothly in a cupful of 
 cold milk and a little chopped parsley. Add to the pan that 
 the chicken simmered in, boil gently, strain over the chicken 
 and serve. 
 
 Chicken with Rice a la Maryland. — Cut up a chicken into 
 joints, and put it into a stew-pan with the heart, gizzard, and 
 liver, and a slice or two of bacon; cover with warm water, and 
 boil gently until the chicken is quite tender ; then take the 
 meat out of the stew-pan, and set it where it will be kept 
 warm; wash half a pint of rice, add it to the gravy, season 
 highly with salt and pepper. When done place the rice 
 upon a dish, lay the chicken on top, and if too dry brush a 
 little melted butter over it. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes.— Pound the white meat of a cold 
 chicken with a cold boiled sweetbread in a mortar ; add a 
 little salt, beat up an egg with a teaspoonful of flour and a 
 wineglassful of cream; mix the pounded meat with the 
 batter, put it in a sauce-pan, and simmer long enough to ab- 
 sorb the moisture, stirring all the time; then turn it into a 
 flat dish, and set it in the ice-box to get cold and stiff, roll it 
 into balls or cones, dip in egg-batter, then roll them in 
 crumbs or cracker-dust and fry in boiling fat. 
 
 Chicken a l'ltalienne.— Take half a pound of La Favorita 
 macaroni, and boil it in water with a lump of butter. When 
 it has boiled a quarter of an hour, drain off the water and 
 cover the macaroni with milk ; add salt and pepper and a 
 
30 Valuable Cooking Beceipts. 
 
 whole onion, stock with a few cloves ; boil until the macaroni 
 is tender but unbroken. 
 
 Boil a chicken in the usual manner, cut it up and lay it 
 on a hot dish, pour the macaroni over it (remove the onio:i), 
 grate a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese over the dish, 
 and brown it in the oven or with a salamander. 
 
 Chicken Patties. — Pick the meat from a cold chicken, and 
 cut it up into small dice ; place it in a sauce-pan with a cup- 
 ful of chicken stock, a cupful of cream, a piece of butter 
 the size of an egg, rolled in flour, suit and pepper, and a 
 little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel ; simmer gently until it 
 begins to thicken, remove the dish from the lire a few 
 minutes to cool ; beat up the yolks of two eggs with a half 
 teaspoonful flour, moistened in milk or cream, and add to the 
 sauce-pan, mix thoroughly, and draw towards the fire (but 
 do not let it boil) until it thickens ; before serving add the 
 juice of half a lemon. 
 
 Fill your patty-shells with the mixture, one for each per- 
 son, and serve (see Oyster Patties for patty- shells). 
 
 Chicken Pie. — Line the sides of a pie-dish with a good puff 
 paste. Have your chicken cooked as for a fricassee, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper and a little chopped parsley. When they 
 are nearly cooked lay them in a pie-dish with half a pound 
 of salt pork cut into inch squares, and some of the paste cut 
 into inch and a half pieces ; pour in a part of the chicken 
 gravy, thicken with a little flour, and cover the dish with the 
 paste cover. Cut a hole the size of a dollar in the cover, and 
 cover it with a piece of dough twice the size of the hole 
 (when baked remove this piece occasionally and examine the 
 interior), brush egg over the pie, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Should the pie become dry pour in more of the gravy. 
 Pigeon Pie may be made by the above recipe. 
 
 Chicken Panada (Invalid cookery). — Take a fresh young 
 chicken and boil it until quite tender, in sufficient water to 
 cover it. Strip the meat from the bones and pound in a 
 mortar until quite smooth, with a little of the liquor it was 
 
Valuable CooMng Receipts. 31 
 
 boiled in ; add salt, nutmeg, and a very little grated 
 lemon-peel. Boil this gently for a few minutes, with suffi- 
 cient liquid to make it the consistency of custard. 
 
 Chicken with Dumplings. — Disjoint one chicken, and put 
 to boil in cold water until done. Make dumplings with 
 one pint of flour, one teaspoonful of yeast-powder, and 
 same quantity of salt. Wet this mixture with milk and put 
 with chicken until boiled. Take them out and fry in hot 
 fat until brown ; do same with chicken afterwards. Use 
 water in which chicken was boiled to make gravy. 
 
 M. G. H. 
 
 Chicken Toast. — Take the remains of a cold chicken and 
 chop up fine, put in a sauce-pan, season with salt and pepper 
 and just a little onion, with a lump of butter ; break over 
 the meat two or three raw eggs ; stir all together, pour it 
 upon nicely-buttered toast, and serve. 
 
 Chicken Liver en Brochette. — Wash the livers in cold 
 water, dry them on a towel, and cut them in two; cut slices 
 of bacon into pieces about the same size, and put them on a 
 skewer alternately, and broil. When done brush over them 
 a sauce of melted butter, lemon-juice, pepper and salt. 
 
 Braise of Duck with Turnips. — Prepare a domestic duck as 
 for roasting. Line a small pan, just large enough for the 
 duck, with slices of bacon; strew over the bottom a little pars- 
 ley, powdered herbs, and lemon-peel ; lay in the duck, and 
 add a carrot cut into strips, an onion stock with a few cloves, 
 and a dozen whole peppers ; cover with stock and add a table 
 spoonful of strong vinegar ; baste frequently and simmer until 
 done. Fry some slices of turnip in butter to a light brown, 
 drain and add them to the stew-pan after removing the duck, 
 which should be kept hot. When the turnips are tender re- 
 move them, strain the gravy, thickening if necessary with a 
 little flour or arrowroot ; put the duck on a dish, throw 
 the hot gravy over it, and garnish with the turnips. 
 
 Braise of Duck with Peas. — Prepare and cook a duck as in 
 the above receipt, using green peas instead of carrots and 
 
32 Valuable Cooking Receipts* 
 
 onion, and fry two onions in butter till they are of a pale 
 brown; boil them to a thick sauce with some of the duck 
 gravy; season with salt and pepper, and serve with the peas 
 around the duck and the gravy thrown over. 
 
 Salmi of Wild Duck. — Cut up the remains of two roast, un- 
 derdone wild d ticks into neat pieces and set them aside. Take 
 the boi.es, giblets, and ragged pieces, and put them in a 
 stew-pan with a minced onion or shallot, a saltspoonful salt; 
 and a very little Cayenne ; add a pint of stock and a glass 
 of port wine, boil gently half an hour, strain and thicken 
 the sauce with a teaspoonful of prepared brown flour. Put 
 the pieces of duck in a stew-pan, pour the sauce over them, 
 and simmer until quite hot. Add the juice of a sour orange 
 to the dish and serve. A garnish of olives is considered an 
 improvement by some. Soak the olives in cold water one 
 hour ; remove the stones with a small vegetable-cutter and 
 add them to the sauce, before taking the dish from the 
 fire. 
 
 Salmi of Partridge, Hunter's Style. — Take two cold roast 
 partridges, cut them into joints, and lay them in a saucepan 
 with two ounces of butter, a gill of Bordeaux or port, the 
 grated rind and juice of a large lemon, salt, and a little Cay- 
 enne ; thicken with a little flour if desired; simmer gently 
 until very hot and serve. 
 
 Venison Epicurean. — Cut a steak from the leg or a chop 
 from the loin of venison, about an inch and a half thick. 
 Put a walnut of butter, salt and pepper, into a chafing-dish ; 
 light the spirit-lamp under it, and when the butter melts 
 put in the chop or steak; let it cook on one side a few min- 
 utes, then turn it over, and add a wineglassful of sherry or 
 port and a tablespoonful of currant- jelly. Simmer gently 
 about seven minutes if it is to be eaten rare, and allow twelve 
 minutes cooking if required well done. 
 
 Hot plates and a glass of Mr. Clair's old East India Madeira 
 are all that is requisite to make the feast Apician in character. 
 
 Venison Chops, broiled and served with currant-jelly, are 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 83 
 
 not to bo despised. Trim the ends as you would a French 
 lamb-chop. 
 
 Breast of Venison may be dressed according to the receipt 
 given for breast of mutton. - 
 
 Venison Patties. — Make a nicely-flavored mince of the re- 
 mains of cold roast venison ; moisten it with a little sherry 
 or gravy, and warm it in a saucepan ; fill the patty-shells with 
 the meat and serve. (See oyster patty for patty-shells.) 
 
 Broiled Tripe. — Cut up honeycomb tripe into pieces of three 
 to four inches wide ; rub a little oil or melted butter over 
 them, dredge them in flour, and broil over a charcoal fire ; 
 squeeze a little lemon-juice over each piece, and serve. 
 
 Never broil tripe over a hard-coal fire ; the gases arising 
 from the coal spoil the flavor of the tripe, making it indi- 
 gestible and unpalatable. 
 
 Tripe Lyonnaise. — Take a pound of cold boiled tripe and 
 cut it into pieces an inch square. Dissolve two ounces of but- 
 ter in a frying-pan, add a sliced onion to it, and fry until it 
 is tender. Put the pieces of tripe with the onion, a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonf ul of vinegar, salt, 
 and a little cayenne ; heat all gently together. Cover the 
 bottom of a platter with tomato-sauce, add the tripe and 
 serve. 
 
 Tripe Fricassee. — Cut up the tripe into square pieces; put 
 them into a stew-j^an with a blade of mace, a bouquet of herbs, 
 an onion quartered, salt, and cayenne. Cover the tripe with 
 Rhine wine or water and a little vinegar ; stew for one hour. 
 Strain the sauce ; put the tripe and sauce in a clean sauce- 
 pan, with a walnut of butter rolled in flour, a gill of cream, 
 a tablespoonful chopped parsley. Simmer ten minutes, 
 squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and serve. 
 
 Pork and Beans. — Wash a quart of beans thoroughly ; cover 
 them with cold water and let them soak over-night. Change 
 the water in the morning onqe or twice. Then put them in 
 
34 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 a pot and simmer slowly for three hours until they begin to 
 crack open ; pour them into a colander to drain off all the 
 water. Heat an earthen bean-pot with hot water, and wipe 
 it dry ; place a small piece of pork on the bottom of the pot 
 and pour in the beans. Cut the rind of another piece of 
 pork into strips, and sink it into the beans, leaving only 
 the rind of the pork exposed at the top. Dissolve a table- 
 spoonful of New Orleans molasses, with a teaspoonful of 
 salt, in a pint of warm water, and add it to the pot; set it 
 in the oven and bake slowly for three or four hours, or place 
 the pot in a baker's oven over-night, instructing the baker to 
 add a little water to the pot should the beans become dry. 
 Serve with Boston brown bread. 
 
 Baked Macaroni. — For a small dish one-half pound maca- 
 roni, boiled until soft, with a little salt in the water. Drain 
 through a colander ; then put in the baking-dish, with one 
 pint and a half of milk, a lump of butter, pepper and salt, 
 and grated cheese (enough to suit taste), and distribute 
 over top. Bake in a hot oven until brown. M. G. h. 
 
 Rice Croquettes. — Put a quarter of a pound of Carolina 
 "head "rice, one pint of milk, three tablespoonfuls of powder- 
 ed sugar, a walnut of butter, and a teaspoonful of best ex- 
 tract of "\anilla into a saucepan; simmer gently until the 
 rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be boiled until 
 thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mould it into croquettes. 
 Beat it thoroughly for three or four minutes ; turn it out on 
 a flat tin, and when cold and stiff form it into balls or cones ; 
 dip these in beaten egg f roll lightly in crumbs, and fry in 
 hot fat or butter. 
 
 VEGETABLE ENTREES. 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes. — Take six ripe tomatoes of equal size ; 
 cut off the tops and scoop out the insides ; press the pulp 
 through a sieve and mix with it a little salt and cayenne, 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 35 
 
 two ounces of butter broken into little pieces, and two heap- 
 ing tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs ; fill the tomatoes with 
 the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Before serving 
 them brown the stuffing by holding a salamander or a small 
 shovel containing hot coals over them. 
 
 Any good force-meat may be used to stuff tomatoes ; the 
 remains of game or poultry minced, and mixed with herbs 
 and bread-crumbs, seasoned and bound together with yolk 
 of egg, will suit the most fastidious. 
 
 Stuffed Egg-Plant. — Cut the egg-plant in two ; scrape out all 
 the inside and put it in a saucepan with a little minced ham ; 
 cover with water and boil until soft ; drain off the water ; 
 add two tablespoonfuls grated crumbs, tablespoonful butter, 
 half a minced onion, salt, and pepper ; stuff each half of the 
 hull with the mixture ; add a small lump of butter to each 
 and bake fifteen minutes. 
 
 Stuffed Egg-Plant, No. 2.— Pare off the purple rind of the 
 egg-plant and quarter it ; round off the edges as neatly as pos- 
 sible, then place them in salt and water for an hour. Take 
 them out of the water, scrape out the centre, and mix it with 
 a force-meat of veal, bread-crumbs, seasoning, and yolk of 
 egg ; put the mixture in the hollow egg-plant, with a lump 
 of butter upon the top of each, and bake a light brown. 
 
 Stuffed Potatoes. — Take a number of firm-skin potatoes of 
 equal size ; clean them well and bake them. When done 
 cut off a piece of the end of each potato and scoop out as 
 much of the inside as can be obtained without injury to the 
 skin ; mash it with cream and butter ; add a little salt ; set 
 the dish on the range to keep hot. Take the whites of three 
 eggs, whip them to a froth, and add to the potatoes ; mix all 
 together ; simmer until quite hot ; fill up the skins with the 
 potato paste ; fasten the covers with white of egg, and bake 
 fifteen minutes. 
 
 Potato Balls. — Boil a small potful of potatoes ; wash them 
 well, and mix with them butter, salt, chopped parsley or 
 chives, grated nutmeg, and two raw eggs ; work the paste Into 
 
36 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 small balls, dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker-dust or flour, 
 and fry. 
 
 Potato Cake. — Take half a pound of dry mealy potatoes, 
 either baked or boiled ; mash them until they are free from 
 lumps ; mix with them three ounces of flour, salt and pepper, 
 and as much lukewarm milk and butter as will make a 
 smooth, firm dough ; add one egg and half a teaspoonful of 
 Koyal Baking Powder. Koll the paste out with a rolling- 
 pin till it is nearly two inches thick ; dredge a little flour 
 over it, and cut it out the exact size of the frying-pan. 
 Kub the pan over with butter ; lay the cake carefully into 
 it ; cover with a plate ; shake it every now and then to pre- 
 vent it burning ; when it is half done on one side turn it over 
 carefully on the other. Serve on a hot dish with plenty of 
 good fresh butter. 
 
 Cold potatoes, if dry and mealy, may be warmed up in this 
 manner. 
 
 Sweet potatoes make very good potato cake. 
 
 Potato Fritters. — Burst open four nicely-baked potatoes ; 
 scoop out the insides with a spoon, and mix with them a 
 wineglassful of cream, a tablespoonful of brandy, two table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar, the juice of one lemon, half a 
 teaspoonful of Thurber's best extract vanilla, and the well- 
 beaten yolks of four and the whites of three eggs ; beat the 
 batter for several minutes until it is quite smooth, and drop 
 large tablespoonf uls of the mixture into boiling fat, and fry a 
 light brown ; dust powdered sugar over them, and send to 
 table. 
 
 Parsnip Fritters. — Boil four good-sized parsnips in salted 
 water until tender; drain them, beat them to a pulp, and 
 squeeze the water from them as much as possible ; bind them 
 together with a beaten egg and a little flour. Shape them 
 into cakes, and fry in hot fat. 
 
 Oyster-Plant Croquettes. — Wash, scrape, and boil the oyster- 
 plant till tender ; rub it through a colander, and mix with 
 the pulp a little butter, cream, salt, cayenne, and lemon- 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 37 
 
 juice ; mix the ingredients thoroughly together to a smooth 
 paste, and set the dish in the icebox to get cold ; then shape 
 it into small cones, dip them in beaten egg and roll in crumbs, 
 and fry crisp and brown. 
 
 Fritters. — The following receipt will serve for' many kinds 
 of fruit or vegetable fritters : Make a batter of ten ounces of 
 flour, half a pint of milk, and two ounces of butter ; sweeten 
 and flavor to taste ; add a glass of brandy, rum, or sherry ; 
 stir in the whites of two eggs well beaten ; dip the fruit in the 
 batter, and fry. Small fruit and vegetables should be mixed 
 with the battel. 
 
 Arrowroot for Batters and Sauces. — Arrowroot may be used 
 to thicken batters, sauces, etc., for those who object to butter, 
 as invalids very often do. Mix a tablespoonful of Beatty's 
 Bermuda Arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, and 
 stir it into a pint of the batter or sauce. 
 
 Omelettes. — Numerous kinds of omelettes may be served as 
 the last entree, and, if properly made, they generally give satis- 
 faction. As a rule an omelette is a wholesome, inexpensive 
 dish, but yet one in the preparation of which cooks frequently 
 fail owing to ignorance of detail. The flavoring and the 
 ingredients used may be varied indefinitely, but the process 
 is always the same. In making an omelette care should be 
 taken that the frying-pan is hot -and dry. The best way to 
 ensure this is to put a small quantity of fat into the pan, let 
 it simmer a few minutes, then pour' it out ; wipe the pan dry 
 with a towel and put in a little fresh fat, in which the ome- 
 lette should be fried ; care should be taken that the fat does 
 not burn, thereby spoiling the color of the omelette. 
 
 It is better to make two or three small omelettes than one 
 large one. The eggs should be but slightly beaten, just long 
 enough to mix them, and no more ; a tablespoonful of cream to 
 every two eggs will be found an improvement. Salt mixed with 
 the eggs prevents them from rising and gives the omelette a 
 flabby appearance ; without salt your omelette will taste 
 
38 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 insipid ; sprinkle a little salt on the omelette just before turn- 
 ing out on the dish. 
 
 Oyster Omelette. — Stew six oysters in their own liquor ; re- 
 move the oysters and thicken the liquid with butter rolled in 
 flour ; season with salt, cayenne, and mix with it a teaspoon- 
 ful chopped parsley. Chop up the oysters and add them to 
 the sauce ; simmer gently until the sauce thickens. Beat 
 three eggs lightly with a tablespoonful and a half of cream, 
 and fry until they are delicately set ; before folding over put 
 a few spoonfuls of the mixture in the centre ; turn it out 
 carefully on a hot dish, with the balance of the sauce round 
 it, and serve immediately. 
 
 If small oysters are used put them in the centre of the 
 omelette, whole, fold and serve with sauce round it. 
 
 Rum Omelette. — Fry an omelette in the usual way ; fold it 
 with a little salt, and turn it out on a hot dish ; dust sugar 
 over it, and singe the sugar into stripes with a hot iron rod ; 
 pour a wineglassful of warm rum round the omelette, set a 
 light to it, and send to table flaming. 
 
 Omelette Souffle. — Break six eggs into separate cups ; beat 
 four of the yolks, and mix with them a teaspoonfnl of flour, 
 three tablespoonful s of powdered sugar, very little salt, and 
 any flavoring extract that maybe preferred. Whisk the white 
 of the six eggs to a firm froth ; mix them lightly with the 
 yolks ; pour the mixture into a greased pan or dish, and bake 
 in a quick oven. When it is well risen and lightly browned 
 on the top it is done; take it out of the oven, dust a little 
 powdered sugar over it carefully, and send to table imme- 
 diately. It must be served in the same dish in which it is 
 baked. 
 
 Welsh Rarebit. — Select the richest and best American fac- 
 tory cheese — the milder it is the better, as the melting brings 
 out the strength. To make five rarebits take one pound of 
 cheese, grate it, and put it in a tin or porcelain-lined saucepan ; 
 add ale enough to thin the cheese sufficiently, say about a 
 w ineglassful to each rarebit ; stir until all is melted. Have a 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 39 
 
 slice of toast ready for each rarebit (crusts trimmed) ; put a 
 slice on each plate, and pour cheese enough over each piece to 
 cover it. Eat while hot. 
 
 To make a « Golden Buck."— A " Golden Buck " is merely 
 the addition of a poached egg, which is put carefully on the 
 top of the rarebit. 
 
 "Yorkshire Rarebit." — This is the same as a "Golden 
 Buck," only it has two thin slices of broiled bacon on the top. 
 — George Browne, in Thurber's Epicure, 
 
 [See Vegetables, page 90.] 
 
 BOASTING, 
 
 Roasting is an excellent method of rendering food whole- 
 some and nourishing. Without making any great change in 
 the chemical properties of meat it renders it more tender and 
 highly flavored, while there is not so much waste of its nutri- 
 tive juices as in baking. But where can the average American 
 get a slice of roast beef ? Our homes are not provided with 
 spits, bottle-jacks, Dutch ovens, and the like ; and as a very 
 sensible writer in the New York Times stated, "ninety- 
 nine roasts in the United States are baked in ovens, and 
 there is no help for it." I can see no possible way out of the 
 dilemma but to submit gracefully to baked meats for ever. 
 The leading hotels and restaurants overcome the difficulty 
 by purchasing the very best of beef, and keeping it from 
 eight to fifteen days in their ice-houses. Thus the excellent 
 quality of the beef overcomes, in a measure, the bad effects 
 created by the superheated volatile portions that escape from 
 the beef during the process of baking. 
 
 No finer, better, or sweeter piece of meat was ever tasted, 
 either in England or America, than the Astor House roast 
 beef ; and the secret is in securing the best quality, and tak- 
 ing proper care of it before submitting it to the oven. 
 
 Roast Beef. — The best roasting-pieces are the fore and mid- 
 dle ribs and the sirloin. The chuck-ribs, although cheaper, 
 
40 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 w 
 
 are not as profitable to families, there being too much waste 
 in the carving of them. The ends of the ribs should be re- 
 moved from the flank, and the latter folded under the beef 
 and securely fastened with skewers. Rub a little salt into 
 the fat part ; place the meat in the dripping-pan with a pint 
 of stock or water ; baste freely, and dredge with flour half 
 an hour before taking the joint from the oven. 
 
 Should the oven be very hot place a buttered paper over 
 the meat to prevent it scorching while yet raw, in which case 
 it will need very little basting ; or turn the rib side up to- 
 wards the fire for the first twenty minutes. The time it will 
 take in cooking depends entirely upon the thickness of the 
 joint and the length of time it has been killed. Skim 
 the fat from the gravy and add a tablespoonful of prepared 
 brown flour and a glass of sherry to the remainder. 
 
 Roast Loin of Veal. — Make an incision in the flank or skirt 
 of the loin of veal, and into the cavity thus made, just over 
 the end of the bone, put a well-flavored veal force-meat. Roll 
 in the flank to cover the kidney-fat, and bind it firmly with 
 string or tape. Place a few small veal bones with a few as- 
 sorted vegetables, cut up, in a dripping-pan ; put the loin 
 upon this bed, add half a pint of stock or water, and set it in 
 the oven for twenty minutes ; in the meantime work togeth- 
 er a tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of melted 
 butter ; draw the joint from the oven, baste it with the flour 
 and butter, return it to the oven again, and baste occasion- 
 ally until done. 
 
 Veal should be thoroughly done. When it is under-done 
 it is decidedly indigestible and should be avoided. 
 
 The breast of veal boned, with a layer of force-meat spread 
 over the inside and rolled and tightly bound, may be substi- 
 tuted for loin of veal. 
 
 % Mutton. — The choicest mutton in the United States comes 
 from the mountainous regions of Pennsylvania. The ani- 
 mals are semi-domestic and almost as shy and as timid as a 
 deer. In 1878 Col. Duffy, one of Pennsylvania's fish com- 
 missioners, dined a party of English gentlemen on mountain- 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 41 
 
 mutton, and they pronounced it the finest-flavored morsel of 
 venison they had ever eaten. 
 
 Roast Leg of Mutton. — Take a leg of well-kept mutton, 
 rub it lightly with salt, and put it in a dripping-pan with a 
 very little water ; cut a potato in two lengthwise, and set 
 it under the leg; baste with a little good dripping at first, 
 and when within twenty minutes of being done, dredge it 
 with flour to get it frothed. Turn the joint two or three 
 times while cooking. Time, about a quarter of an hour to 
 the pound. 
 
 Loin of Mutton. — Follow the directions given for roast leg 
 of mutton, but trim off all unnecessary fat, cover the joint 
 with paper until within twenty minutes of its being done, 
 then remove, baste, and flour slightly ; serve with currant-jel- 
 ly. If properly cooked and served hot it is a royal dish, but 
 if the fat is not turned to account, a very expensive one. 
 
 Lamb. — Put a four or five pound joint of lamb in a drip- 
 ping-pan with a gill of stock or water ; salt and pepper ; 
 roll two ounces of butter in a very little flour, divide it 
 into small pieces, and add it here and there upon the 
 meat ; set the pan in a moderate oven, and baste frequently 
 until done. 
 
 Skim the fat from the gravy, and serve with the lamb ; or 
 serve mint-sauce with the joint. 
 
 Mint Sauce. — Wash the sprigs of mint, let them dry on a 
 towel, strip off the leaves, and chop them very fine ; put in 
 a sauce-boat with a cupful of vinegar and four lumps of 
 sugar; let it stand an hour, and before serving stir all togeth- 
 er. Mint sauce, if bottled, will keep for some time, and be 
 just as good, if not better, than it was the first day. 
 
 Saddle of Lamb. — A saddle of lamb is a dainty joint for a 
 small party. Sprinkle a little salt over it, and set it in 
 the dripping-pan, with a few small pieces of butter on the 
 meat; baste it occasionally with tried-out lamb-fat; dredge 
 
42 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 a little flour over it a few minutes before taking from the 
 oven. Serve with the very best of currant-jelly, and send to 
 table with it a few choice early vegetables. Mint-sauce may 
 be served with the joint, but in a very mild form. 
 
 Pork. — Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be 
 chosen with the greatest care. The pig, from its gluttonous 
 habits, is particularly liable to disease; and if killed and 
 eaten when in an unhealthy condition, those who partake of 
 it will probably pay dearly for their indulgence. Dairy-fed 
 pork is the best; and knowing this fact, a number of our 
 first-class hotels raise their own pork on farms connected 
 with their country residences. Among them may be men- 
 tioned the Continental Hotel, Philadelphia; the Astor, Union 
 Square, Sturtevant, Hoffman, Fifth Avenue, Windsor, and 
 several other leading hotels in New York City. We are in- 
 debted to Chas. Lamb for the history of roast pig. In his 
 essays he says : " The art of roasting, or rather broiling (which 
 I take to be the elder brother), was accidentally discovered in 
 the manner following : The swineherd Ho-ti, having gone 
 out into the woods one morning, as his manner was, to collect 
 rnast for his hogs, left his cottage in the care of his eldest 
 son, Bo bo, a great, lubberly boy, who, being fond of playing 
 with fire, let some sparks escape into a bundle of straw, 
 which, kindling quickly, spread the conflagration over every 
 part of their poor mansion till it was reduced to ashes. 
 Together with the cottage, what was of much more im- 
 portance, a fine litter of new farrowed pigs, no less than 
 nine in number, perished. Bo bo was in the utmost con- 
 sternation, as you may think, not so much for the sake of 
 the tenement — which his father and he could easily build up 
 again with a few dry branches, and the labor of an hour or 
 two, at any time — as for the loss of the pigs. While he was 
 thinking what he should say to his father, and wringing his 
 hands, an odor assailed his nostrils unlike any scent which 
 he had before experienced. What could it proceed from ? 
 Not from the burnt cottage; he had smelt that before. In- 
 deed, this was by no means the first accident which had oc- 
 
Valuable Coolcing Receipts. 43 
 
 curred through the negligence of this unlucky firebrand. 
 A premonitory moistening at the same time overflowed his 
 nether lip. He knew not what to think. He next stooped down 
 to feel the pig, if there were any signs of life in it. He burnt 
 his fingers, and to cool them he applied them in his booby 
 fashion to his mouth. Some of the crumbs of the scorched 
 skin had come away with his fingers, and for the first time 
 in his life (in the world's, indeed, for before him no man 
 had known it) he tasted — crackling! Again he felt and 
 fumbled at the pig. It did not burn him so much now; 
 still, he licked his fingers from a sort of habit. The truth 
 at length broke into his slow understanding that it was the 
 pig that smelt so and the pig that tasted so delicious ; and 
 surrendering himself up to the new-born pleasure, he fell to 
 tearing up whole handfuls of the scorched skin, with the 
 flesh next it, and was cramming it down his throat in his 
 beastly fashion when his sire entered amid (he smoking 
 rafters, and, finding how affairs stood, began to rain blows 
 upon the young rogue's shoulders as thick as hailstones, 
 which Bo-bo heeded not any more than if they had been 
 flies. The tickling pleasure which he experienced in his lower 
 regions had rendered him quite callous to any inconveniences 
 he might feel in those remote quarters. Bo-bo's scent, be- 
 ing wonderfully sharpened since morning, soon raked out 
 another pig, and, fairly rending it asunder, thrust the 
 lesser half by main force into the fists of Ho-ti, still shout- 
 ing out, ' Eat, eat ! Eat the burnt pig, father! Only taste !' 
 It is needless to state that both father and son despatched 
 the remainder of the litter. Bo-bo was strictly enjoined not 
 to let the secret escape. Nevertheless strange stories got 
 about; it was observed that Ho-ti's cottage was burnt down 
 now more frequently than ever. As often as the sow far- 
 rowed, so soon was the house of Ho-ti seen to be in a blaze. 
 At length they were watched, the terrible mystery discovered, 
 and father and son summoned to take their trial at Peking, 
 then an inconsiderable assize town. Evidence was given, 
 the obnoxious food itself produced in court, and verdict 
 about to be pronounced, when the foreman of the jury 
 
44 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 begged that some of the burnt pig of which the culprit 
 stood accused might be handed into the box. He handled 
 it, and they all handled it ; and burning their fingers as 
 Bo-bo and his father had done before them, and nature 
 prompting to each of them the same remedy, against the face 
 of all the facts and the clearest charge which judge had ever 
 given, to the surprise of the whole court, townsfolk, strangers, 
 reporters (they had Howards and Eaymonds in those days), 
 and all present, without leaving the box, or any manner of 
 consultation whatever, they brought in a simultaneous 
 verdict of not guilty." 
 
 Dr. Kitchiner on Pork. — " Take particular care it be done 
 enough. Other meats underdone are unpleasant, but pork is 
 absolutely uneatable; the sight of it is enough to appall the. 
 sharpest appetite, if its gravy has the least tint of redness. 
 Be careful of the crackling; if this be not crisp, or if it be 
 burned, you will be scolded." 
 
 The Turkey. — The turkey, says Brillat-Savarin, " is the 
 largest, and, if not the most delicate, at least the most 
 savory of domestic poultry. It enjoys the singular advan- 
 tage of assembling around it every class of society. When 
 our farmers and wine-growers regale themselves on a winter's 
 evening, what do we see roasting before the kitchen fire, 
 close to which the white-clothed table is set? A turkey ! 
 When the useful tradesman or the hard-worked artist in- 
 vites a few friends to an occasional treat, what dish is he 
 expected to set before them? A nice roast turkey stuffed 
 with sausage-meat and Lyons chestnuts. And in our high- 
 est gastronomical society, when politics are obliged to give 
 way to dissertations on matters of taste, what is desired, 
 what is awaited, what is looked out for at the second 
 course ? A truffled turkey. In my ' Secret Memoirs ' I 
 find sundry notes recording that on many occasions its res- 
 torative juice has illumined diplomatic faces of the highest 
 eminence." 
 
 Now, the average American could not be induced to eat a 
 turkey stuffed with sausage-meat ; he would naturally say 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 45 
 
 that if the useful tradesman " or the hard-working artist" 
 experienced any pleasure over such a compound, he was wel- 
 come to it; to him sausage-meat was too suggestive of pork 
 and — mystery. But the Lyons chestnuts — ah! yes, that will 
 do, for he has tasted chestnut stuffing and has learned to 
 like it. A dissertation on truffles, while waiting for the 
 "truffled, turkey" to be served, is all that is necessary to 
 make him say he is passionately fond of them in any form, 
 otherwise he would be apt to ask the waiter to remove the 
 dressing from his plate, "as it was full of small pieces of 
 charcoal " (an actual occurrence). 
 
 Roast Turkey. — Singe the bird, and in drawing it preserve 
 the heart, gizzard, and liver; remove the gall-bag from the 
 liver, and be very careful not to break it, as if any of the 
 liquid touches the bird no amount of washing will remove 
 the bitter taste. Cut off the neck close to the body, and be- 
 fore doing so push back the skin of the neck so that suffi- 
 cient may be left on to turn over the back; remove a part of 
 the fat adhering to the skin; split the breast-bone from the 
 inside, or place several folds of cloth on the high breast-bone 
 and break and flatten it a little with a rolling-pin to make 
 the bird look plump. Fill the breast and body with stuffing; 
 sew up the opening with coarse thread; turn the neck-skin 
 over the back and fasten it; truss the legs close to the breast, 
 the wings turn over the back, using skewers or twine to hold 
 them in proper position. Put the turkey in the dripping-pan 
 with a little hot water, dredge it with flour, and lay a few 
 small pieces of butter upon it, and the feet, scalded and 
 scraped, under it. Baste frequently. Time, from two to three 
 hours, according to the size of the bird. 
 
 Should he prove to be of doubtful age and rich in spurs 
 and scaly feet, parboil him. Put him in a saucepan or pot, 
 cover with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and when 
 the water comes to a boil take out the bird and dry it well 
 before stuffing it. 
 
 Chestnut Stuffing. — Roast a pint of chestnuts and peel off 
 the outer and inner skin; weigh them, and simmer half a pound 
 
46 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 of them for twenty minutes in as much veal gravy as will 
 cover them; drain and let them cool; then pound them in a 
 mortar with four ounces of butter, three ounces of bread- 
 crumbs, a trifle of grated lemon-peel and powdered mace, 
 salt, and a pinch of cayenne; bind the mixture with the yolks 
 of three eggs. 
 
 Chestnuts roasted or boiled may be added to almost any 
 stuffing for fowl, etc., and give general satisfaction. I once 
 made a stuffing of chestnuts, apple-sauce, bread-crumbs, and 
 the proper seasoning for a 'possum, and all who tasted of it 
 
 pronounced it a dainty dish. One of the party, Dr. H , 
 
 never tires of talking about " that 'possum with the chest- 
 nuts." 
 
 Oyster Stuffing. — Remove the heart (or what some call the 
 eye) from two dozen oysters, mince them finely, pound them 
 to a paste, and mix with them five ounces of bread-crumbs, an 
 ounce of butter, the grated rind of half a lemon, atablespoon- 
 ful of chopped parsley, a pinch of cayenne, an even teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. When well 
 mixed bind the mixture with the yolk of an egg and a small 
 quantity of the oyster liquid added gradually. 
 
 Bread Stuffing. — Grate sufficient bread to fill the bird; mois- 
 ten it with milk, and season with salt, pepper, sweet marjo- 
 ram, and the grated rind of one lemon. Add a tablespoonful 
 of butter, and bind the mixture with yolk of egg. Add a 
 few raw whole oysters, if desired. 
 
 Roast Capon. — They should be managed in the same way 
 as turkeys, and served with the same sauces. I cannot quite 
 come to the conclusion that a roast capon is equal in flavor to 
 one boiled and served with egg-sauce. 
 
 Roast Chicken. — Singe your chickens and truss them care- 
 fully. Broilers, as they are called, are better without stuff- 
 ing, unless they are very large. Season with salt, put small 
 bits of butter over the meat, and place them in the pan with 
 a little water or veal stock; baste occasionally and dredge 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts, 47 
 
 with flour before taking from the oven. A few tarragon 
 leaves with the sauce are acceptable. 
 
 A spring chicken cooked in any style is not to be despised 
 by any means, but I quite agree with that appreciative epicure, 
 Mr. Sam Ward, when he said: 
 
 " To roast spring chickens is to spoil 'em ; 
 Just split 'em down the back and broil 'em." 
 
 Roast Pigeon. — Raise the skin from the breast-bones of the 
 pigeons with your finger; make a small quantity of finely-fla- 
 vored stuffing, and stuff it between the skin and flesh, using 
 care not to break the skin. Fasten a long, thin slice of 
 bacon over the breasts of the birds with toothpicks; put them 
 in a dripping-pan with a little water, and diedge with flour. 
 When done remove the bacon, set them neatly around the 
 edge of a dish, fill the centre with new green peas or Godil- 
 lot French peas, and serve. (A favorite dish of the members 
 of the Club of Lindenthorpe, on the Delaware.) 
 
 Roast Domestic Duck. — Americans, as a rule, do not take 
 kindly to domestic duck, owing to its peculiar flavor and 
 richness, and also to the fact of the bird being usually accom- 
 panied with a very highly-seasoned onion stuffing. Never- 
 theless, a young domestic duck stuffed with a bread stuffing 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, sage, and a suspicion of onion, is 
 a dish that should often appear upon the tables of our 
 American families. A pair of ducklings with no other stuff- 
 ing than an onion placed inside the birds while roasting, and 
 removed before serving, will make a splendid dinner for a 
 family of five or six. Serve with apple-fritters or apple- 
 sauce. 
 
 Roast Goose. — Singe, draw, and truss the goose, and, if an 
 old one, parboil it. The best stuffing for a goose is a sage- 
 and-onion stuffing. The way in which this is made must de- 
 pend upon the taste of those who have to eat it. If a strong 
 flavor of onions is liked the onion should be chopped raw. 
 If this is not the case they should be boiled in one or two 
 waters, and mixed with bread-crumbs, powdered sage, salt 
 
48 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 and pepper, nutmeg, and two small apples chopped fine; fill 
 the bird with the stuffing, sew it up with coarse thread, 
 sprinkle salt over it, and set it in a pan with a little warm 
 water; haste frequently, and do not take it from the oven 
 until thoroughly cooked. 
 
 Ham a la Russe.— If the ham he hard and salty soak it for 
 several hours. If a fresh-cured Ferris ham it will not need 
 soaking. Trim and cut away all the rusty parts, and co- 
 ver it with a coarse paste of flour and water half an inch 
 thick, and fasten it securely to prevent the juice escaping. 
 Time, from three to four hours, according to size of the ham. 
 Eemove the paste and skin while the ham is hot, cover the 
 fat with a sugar paste ( see boiled ham) moistened with port, 
 and return it to the oven a few minutes to brown. 
 
 The Continental Hotel, Philadelphia, makes a specialty of 
 Ham d la Russe, and it is a splendid dish served with cham- 
 pagne-sauce. 
 
 Canvas-Back Duck. — Pluck, draw, and singe the duck; wipe 
 out the blood from the inside with a clean towel; cut off the 
 head and neck, and put them in the body of the duck, allow- 
 ing the head to protrude. Sprinkle a little celery-salt over 
 the breast, with a bit of butter; put it on a small buttered 
 pan, and set it in the oven for seventeen minutes. Serve 
 with currant- jelly. 
 
 A few outer stalks of celery placed inside the duck will 
 improve its flavor. 
 
 A red-head duck stuffed with grated bread, chopped celery, 
 seasoning, and mixed with yolk of egg, will taste very much 
 like a canvas-back. 
 
 A blue- winged teal duck is very nice broiled. Cut it down 
 the back, brush a little melted butter over it, and broil, keep- 
 ing the inner part of the duck to the fire most of the 
 time. To roast a teal place a strip of bacon over the breast 
 and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes. 
 
 Roast Venison. — Take a leg of well-kept venison, wipe it 
 thoroughly, rub a little salt over it, and dredge with flour. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 49 
 
 Place it in a dripping-pan with the ragged pieces you have 
 trimmed off of it, and a little water or wine. Put small bits 
 of butte.* here and there over the meat, set it in the oven, and 
 baste frequently till clone. If the leg is not very fat it is a 
 good plan to lard it with strips of bacon or pork. Serve 
 with currant-jelly, and don't forget the hot plates. 
 
 I am not a lover of venison a l'Anglaise, for I do not fancy 
 the flour paste daubed over the meat as most English cooks 
 prepare it, though the buttered paper is an advantage when 
 cooking large joints of game. 
 
 Roast Prairie Chicken. — The bird being a little strong, 
 and its flesh when cooked a little dry, it should be either 
 larded or wide strips of bacon or pork placed over its breast. 
 A mild seasoned stuffing will improve the flavor of old 
 birds. Dust a little flour over them, baste occasionally, 
 and serve. 
 
 Pheasants may be managed in the same manner. 
 
 Roast Quail. — Pluck and draw the birds, rub a little butter 
 over them, tie a strip of bacon over the breasts, and set 
 them in the oven for twenty to twenty-five minutes. 
 
 Roast Woodcock. — Pluck the bird carefully, do not cut 
 off the head or draw the trail; punch a few holes' in the 
 back of the bird with a fork, and lay it in the pan on a piece 
 of buttered toast. A little salt is all the seasoning required. 
 Time, twenty minutes. A woodcock is the only game- 
 bird I send to table without currant- jelly ; its own fine 
 flavor needs no bush. 
 
 Roast Snipe. — Pluck and draw the snipe, preserving the 
 trail and head ; tie a thin strip of bacon over the breast; 
 chop up the trail and spread it on buttered toast (one slice 
 for each bird); lay the birds in the pan with the toast be- 
 tween them, and roast twenty minutes. Remove the bacon, 
 place the birds on the toast, and serve. 
 
 Rail-Birds. — Rail-birds are decidedly inferior to either 
 snipe or woodcock. They should be skinned, as much of 
 
50 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 their rankness lies in the skin. The trail is a trifle too 
 strong for the average American palate. They make a very 
 good pie ; manage them as yon would snipe for roasting, 
 broiling, etc. 
 
 Reed-Birds. — These delicious "lumps of sweetness," as 
 they are appropriately called, are always acceptable, but to 
 thoroughly appreciate a reed-bird dinner one must mingle 
 with the gunners on the Delaware Kiver as guest or mem- 
 ber of one of the many clubs whose houses are situated 
 within a few hundred yards from the hunting-grounds. 
 
 After the judge's decision as to who has high boat the 
 birds are plucked (and at some of the club-houses drawn) 
 arranged neatly in a dripping-pan with bits of fresh coun- 
 try butter between them. They are allowed to cook on 
 one side a few minutes, and with a long-handled spoon are 
 turned over to brown the other side. A little salt is added, 
 and they are then placed upon a hot platter en pyramids and 
 the gravy poured over them; they are then sent to table 
 with fried chip potatoes. The scene that follows baffles de- 
 scription. Not a voice is heard, " at least as long as the birds 
 last." The painful silence is only broken by the sounds of 
 crumbling bones between the teeth of the assemblage, and 
 an occasional More birds, Mr. Caterer ! from that prince of 
 gourmets, Mayor S . 
 
 Reed-Birds a la Lindenthorpe. — On "Ladies' Day" the 
 members of this club are more particular than on "mem- 
 bers' day." They prepare the birds by drawing the trail 
 and removing the heads; they then take large sweet 
 or Irish potatoes, cut them in two, scoop out the in sides, 
 and put an oyster or a small piece of bacon inside of each 
 bird, and put the birds inside the potato, tie them up with 
 twine, and bake until the potatoes are done. The common 
 twine is then removed and the potatoes are tied with a narrow 
 piece of white or colored tape, in a neat bow-knot, and sent 
 to table on a napkin. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 51 
 
 SALADS. 
 
 There is not a dish in the gastronomic vocabulary that 
 varies in composition more than a salad. And the reasons 
 for it are many. Among them may be mentioned climatic 
 influences and the personal habits of individuals. The in- 
 dividual who lives well, and who considers a meal imperfect 
 without a wine or malt beverage, will sooner or later learn 
 to use condiments to such an extent as to alarm the more 
 temperate at table. A salad prepared for the majority, he 
 will tell you, cloys on his palate ; and, after the first mouth- 
 ful he resorts to cayenne and vinegar to ''tone up" the 
 salad to suit his taste. After this ungenerous act the close 
 observer will notice confusion upon the face of the salad- 
 composer, who felt confident that he had prepared a salad to 
 suit the taste of the most fastidious. But my friend the 
 salad-mixer should not get offended; he should keep in 
 view one fact — that a palate abused by the constant use of 
 tobacco and other stimulants requires more sharp and pun- 
 gent seasoning than one accustomed to these things only in 
 moderation, and that a strictly temperate person requires 
 less of condiments than either of them. 
 
 The dyspeptic's case is entirely different. He will com- 
 plain of a salad in any form, accusing the oil of causing all 
 his trouble. But he is wrong. Let him stop flooding his 
 food with liquids that only dilute and weakeu the gastric 
 juices of the stomach and he will soon be rid of dyspepsia 
 and learn to love salads as much as other people. The 
 habit of washing down each mouthful of food with liquids 
 is a deplorable one, and the person that does it invites dys- 
 pepsia by so doing. Persons who are in the habit of eating 
 salads late at night, and who complain of indigestion next 
 morning, will find it to their advantage to add half a tea- 
 spoonful of chicken pepsin to each pint of Mayonnaise ; by 
 so doing digestion is assisted, and everyone will feel very 
 much better next day. 
 
 In catering for families I invariably add pepsin to the 
 dressing, but until now have kept it a secret, not liking the 
 
52 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 idea of being accused of mixing medicine with the food. 
 Nevertheless I have been amply rewarded by receiving more 
 orders than I could personally attend to. 
 The following letter will explain itself : 
 
 Sharpless & Sons, 801 to 807 Chestnut St., 
 Philadelphia, March 7, 1879. 
 Mr. Murrey, Continental Hotel : 
 
 Dear Sir : Please send two quarts of chicken salad 
 manipulated by yourself ; the last we had prepared by you 
 left a pleasant recollection. Send up promptly at five 
 o'clock, and oblige, C. H. Hamrick. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. — Take a good-sized head of lettuce and pull 
 the leaves apart. Wash them a moment in a little water, 
 then shake off the water and dry the leaves in a napkin by 
 taking hold of the four corners and shaking it. Examine 
 them carefully, wipe off all grit, and reject all bruised leaves; 
 place them in a salad-bowl large enough to dress them 
 in nicely without scattering a part of them over the table. 
 Mix one salt-spoonful of salt, one salt- spoonful of fresh 
 ground pepper, and a dust of cayenne with a tablespoonful 
 of oil in a salad-spoon; pour this over the lettuce, and add 
 two more tablespoonfuls of oil ; next toss the salad lightly 
 with a salad spoon and fork, and, lastly, add a tablespoonful 
 of vinegar; toss it gently once or twice and send to table. 
 To be eaten at once. Never cut lettuce. Should you wish to 
 divide the leaves tear them apart gently. But it is not 
 always necessary to tear the leaves, should they appear 
 too large to eat gracefully. With the assistance of your 
 knife you can wrap the leaf round the end of your fork so 
 as to make a small ball of it, and eat it with a little more 
 elegance than your neighbor, who is trying his level best 
 to get the leaf into his mouth edgeways. 
 
 Plain French Dressing. — A plain French dressing is mada 
 of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and nothing else. Three 
 tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar, salt-spoon heaping 
 full of salt, an even salt-spoonful of pepper mixed with a 
 little cayenne. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 53 
 
 Plain English Dressing. — Same as plain French dressing, 
 with a teaspoonful of made English mustard added. 
 
 Bacon Dresing. — Out half a pavnd of bacon-fat into slices, 
 then into very small pieces, and fry them until the oil ex- 
 tracted is a light- brown ; remove the pan from the fire 
 and add the juice of a lemon, one wineglassf ul of strong vine- 
 gar, a salt-spoonful of pepper, and pour it over the salad with 
 the pieces of bacon. A very nice dressing when you cannot 
 get oil, etc. 
 
 Summer Mayonnaise. — Chop up the yolk and white of a 
 hard-boiled egg very fine, and sprinkle it over a salad. Mix 
 a plain French dressing in a cold soup-plate, and pour over 
 the egg and salad, and mix all together. 
 
 Sauce Vinaigrette. — Mix a plain French dressing, and add 
 to it a quarter of an onion chopped fine, a teaspoonful of 
 chopped parsley or pickle. 
 
 Don't like the onion ? Then add a few Godillot capers. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce. — Work the yolks of two raw eggs to a 
 smooth paste, and add two salt-spoonfuls of Koyal Table Salt, 
 half a salt-spoonful of cayenne, a salt-spoonful of dry mustard, 
 and a teaspoonful of oil; mix these ingredients thoroughly 
 and add the strained juice of half a lemon. Take the re- 
 mainder of half a pint of Virgin olive-oil and add it gra- 
 dually, a teaspoonful at a time, and every fifth teaspoonful 
 add a few drops of lemon- juice until you have used two 
 lemons and the half-pint of oil. 
 
 There are almost as many ways of making a Mayonnaise 
 sauce as there are of cooking eggs. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce, No. 2.— Rub the yolks of three hard- 
 boiled eggs with the yolk of one raw egg to a smooth paste; 
 add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, two salt-spoonfuls of white 
 pepper, and two salt-spoonfuls of made mustard; mix tho- 
 roughly and work a gill of oil gradually into the mixture, al- 
 ternated with a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar until you 
 have used three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Should the sauce 
 appear too thick add a wineglassful of cream gradually. 
 
54 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Lobster Salad. — Tear the meat of the lobster in* o shreds with 
 two forks ; remove the eggs {if a hen lobster) from the fins ; 
 scrape out all the green fat from the shell and set it aside. 
 Prepare for making a Mayonnaise by working a tablespoonf ul 
 of the fat into a smooth paste ; let this green fat, with the yolk 
 of one raw egg and one hard-boiled egg,be the basis of your Ma- 
 yonnaise ; in all other particulars follow instruction for Ma- 
 yonnaise sauce. When complete mix the lobster meat with 
 three tablespoonfuls of the sauce. Cover the bottom of a 
 dish or compot with lettuce (the large leaves tear in two), 
 put a layer of lobster upon it; next add a layer of celery cut 
 into narrow-inch strips, and another layer of lobster ; ar- 
 range it neatly on the dish ; sprinkle the eggs or the chop- 
 ped coral on the lettuce round the edges ; pour the sauce 
 over the meat, garnish with lobster-legs, and serve. 
 
 Somebody sent to the Washington Republic's correspond- 
 ent, " G. H. B.," while he was laid up in Providence hospital 
 with the gout, a very fine lobster, and this is what he did 
 with it : " Now, I'll tell you about that lobster. I had him 
 laid away tenderly in the ice-chest, and directed him to ap- 
 pear at dinner with some leaves of lettuce and a raw egg. 
 The yolk of that egg I mingled, with slow, deliberate revolu- 
 tions of a fork, with mustard, red pepper, salt, and oil. 
 When the paste was thick enough to take up on the end of 
 the fork like dough I thinned it — 'cut it' is technical — with 
 vinegar, and there was my dressing. I planted a table facing 
 the snow-storm, at which I mocked and jeered in a tempe- 
 rature of seventy degrees Fahrenheit. Then did I disrobe 
 the ' Cardinal of the Seas ' (you remember the Frenchman 
 who applied that to lobsters, thinking they came from the 
 ocean red ?) of his vestments, and by the aid of a long pickle- 
 spoon placed all that was in him on the plate. His legs I 
 chewed up. Then late him, and watched the many industri- 
 ous, hard-working fathers of families trudging by in the snow, 
 who had no lobster, and couldn't have dressed him if they 
 had. Then I finished up on some sponge-cake and custard, 
 ate two apples with a sprinkle of salt, lit my pipe, and in its 
 smoke framed beautiful porcelain figures engraven with 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 55 
 
 Chinese characters and Hindoo idols. That's what I did 
 with that lobster. He was a prime one and very much in- 
 terested the Sisters." 
 
 Chicken Salad. — Cut up a cold boiled chicken into neat 
 strips or pieces, and mix with it an equal quantity of celery. 
 Cut the celery-stalks into inch pieces, and cut each piece 
 into long strips ; mix them together with a few spoonfuls of 
 Mayonnaise; arrange neatly upon a dish garnished with lettuce, 
 parsley, or hard-boiled egg, pour the remainder of the sauce 
 over the meat, and serve. 
 
 Veal Salad. — Boil a nice lean piece of veal with a chicken 
 or turkey, saving the water in which they were boiled to 
 make a soup, and serving the fowl for dinner with egg or 
 oyster sauce. When cold cut it up into neat strips, mix it 
 with celery or lettuce, pour Mayonnaise over it, and serve. 
 
 The custom of pickling the pieces, etc., of fowl before mix- 
 ing them in a salad does not take well with Americans. 
 
 Herring Salad. — Soak four Holland herrings in water or 
 milk for three hours ; then cut them up into neat, square pieces 
 and set them aside ; cut up into slices nearly three quarts of 
 boiled potatoes while they are hot, and pour over them Rhine 
 wine enough to moisten them ; cover close, and when cold add 
 the herrings and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs chopped 
 fine; crush a dozen whole peppers in a napkin, add to the 
 salad, and mix. If milt herrings are used pound the milt 
 to a paste, moisten it with vinegar, and pour over the salad. 
 
 If roe herring are used, separate the eggs neatly and 
 sprinkle them over the salad, and serve. 
 
 I know a number of my German friends who will say, 
 " Ah! that is not a herring salad." Where are the apples, the 
 capers, beets, pickles, etc. ? But the only answe I can make 
 them is that the majority of our German brethren make an 
 Italian or a Russian salad and call it a herring salad. 
 
 Potato Salad. — Cut up three quarts of boiled potatoes, 
 while hot, into neat pieces, and add to them a tablespoonful 
 of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, a tea- 
 
56 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 spoonful of pepper, and one of salt ; add a cupful of oil, 
 and mix ; then add a cupful of warm stock, a wineglassfulof 
 vinegar (from the mixed-pickle bottle), mix the ingredients 
 together carefully, and do not break the potato anymore than 
 is absolutely necessary ; set it in the ice-box, and when cold 
 serve by placing a leaf of lettuce on a side-dish, and put two 
 spoonfuls of the salad upon the lettuce. The onion and pars- 
 ley may be omitted, and boiled root celery added, or a little 
 stalk celery chopped fine. You cannot make a perfect pota- 
 to salad with cold boiled potatoes. Most cook-books recom- 
 mend them, but that soggy, peculiar taste cannot be removed 
 or destroyed by all the condiments in the cruet-stand. A 
 salad prepared while the potatoes are hot will look more ap- 
 petizing and will keep three or four days, while cold boiled 
 potatoes will turn a black, uninviting color, and turn sour 
 the second day. 
 
 Turnip Tops. — When turnips placed in the cellar begin to 
 sprout they are usually thrown away, but the housekeeper 
 of experience will tell you that a bushel of turnips will fur- 
 nish her family with a salad all winter, and a very good one if 
 properly prepared. 
 
 Place the bushel of turnips in a dark, warm cellar to sprout, 
 and when the sprouts are three or four inches long cut them 
 off; pick the leaves from the stems, and pour hot water over 
 them ; let them remain in the hot water a moment, then 
 plunge them into cold water ; place the sprouts in the co- 
 lander to drain oh* all the water, and send to table with a 
 plain dressing or bacon dressing poured over them. 
 
 Asparagus Salad. — Boil the asparagus, and take it from the 
 hot water and plunge it into cold water to give it firmness ; 
 drain off the water, and send to table with sauce Vinaigrette 
 or plain French dressing. 
 
 Hop Sprouts. — The hop-growers pull up all but two or three 
 sprouts from a hill of hops, and throw them away ; the few 
 that remain in the hill are supposed to do duty as pole-climb- 
 ers. Gather a small basketful of the rejected sprouts ; take 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 57 
 
 them home ; boil them in salted water a few minutes, then 
 plunge them into cold water ; drain off all the water, and 
 serve with a plain French dressing, bacon dressing, or sauce 
 Vinaigrette. 
 
 If you eat asparagus you will like hop sprouts. 
 
 Cucumber Salad. — Peel and slice the cucumbers as thin as 
 possible ; put the slices in salted water five minutes, then 
 draw off the water ; cover them with vinegar, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of pepper, and salt if necessary. 
 
 Cucumber and Tomato Salad. — Peel and slice a five-inch 
 cucumber into very thin slices; put them in a bowl with half 
 a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; set 
 it aside and mix a plain English dressing. 
 
 Take one large or two small-sized tomatoes, scald them a 
 moment, remove the skin and put them in cold water a few 
 minutes to cool ; line the salad-bowl with lettuce, drain the 
 cucumbers from the pickle and put them in the bowl ; wipe 
 the tomatoes and cut them into slices ; put them on top of 
 the cucumber, pour the dressing over it, and serve. 
 
 Office Western Union Telegraph Company, ) 
 Harrisburg, Penn., April 16, 1879. ) 
 
 Mr. Murrey, Caterer Continental Hotel, Philadelphia: 
 
 Send by express, to-morrow, one hundred Murrey salad 
 sandwiches. 
 
 Henry M. Hoyt, Governor. 
 
 Murrey's Salad Sandwich.— Cut up four ounces of breast of 
 boiled chicken and four ounces of tongue, place them in a 
 mortar, aud pound them to a paste ; add two salt-spoonfuls 
 of celery-salt, a pinch of cayenne, a teaspoonful of anchovy 
 paste, and four tablespoonfuls of Mayonnaise ; put the mix- 
 ture on a cold dish, and set it aside. 
 
 Take a few neat leaves of lettuce, dip each leaf in a little 
 tarragon vinegar, shake it, and piace it on a slice of bread ; 
 spread a layer of the prepared meat over the lettuce, then 
 another leaf of lettuce over the meat, and the other slice of 
 
58 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 bread, and your sandwich is made. Trim off the crust, cut 
 each sandwich in two, and fold each piece neatly in con- 
 fectionery (oiled) paper. 
 
 Ham and veal make a nice salad sandwich. The meat may 
 be spread on the bread and the lettuce in the centre, if pre- 
 ferred. 
 
 Muskmelon Salad. — Should you be so unfortunate as to 
 receive an insipid, over-ripe melon, do not send it from the 
 table, but scoop it out on your plate with a spoon, pour a 
 French dressing over it, and you will thank me for the sug- 
 gestion. 
 
 Alligator-Pear Salad. — This tropical fruit, that tastes 
 something like our chestnuts, is beginning to find favor 
 among us, but care should be used in selecting the fruit. The 
 green colored fruit is the best ; the black, over-ripe fruit is 
 useless. Out the pear in two, remove the large seed, cut 
 away the outer rind, then cut the fruit into strips and season 
 with a salt-spoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls best Virgin 
 olive-oil, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar — nothing else. 
 
 Salt. — Of all the condiments now in use salt is the most 
 essential. The health of every individual depends upon it, 
 and it is as much required as food or drink; therefore the 
 salt question is an important one to families. Do not buy 
 salt so fine as to cake in the salt-cellar, for it is almost 
 useless ; nor use a very coarse salt ; a happy medium is 
 the thing. What is known to the trade as Eoyal Table Salt 
 is the proper fineness and best adapted for hotels and family 
 use. 
 
 Mushrooms. — I have purposely avoided introducing mush- 
 rooms into my receipts on account of the expense attached, 
 but where the expense is only a secondary consideration they 
 may be used indiscriminately. Of the French canned mush- 
 rooms the A. Godillot's brand gives the best satisfaction, being 
 put up and sealed at the source of supply, and, therefore, 
 their natural flavors are preserved. Our field mushrooms are 
 very nice when fresh, cooked in any form. To distinguish 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 59 
 
 them from the poisonous fungi, "A Constant Reader," writ- 
 ing to the London Times, says: "I venture to send you a 
 simple test of the mushroom, which I have practised for many 
 years, and for which I am indebted to an old herbalist. Be- 
 fore peeling the mushroom pass a gold ring backwards and 
 forwards on the skin of the mushroom; should the bruise 
 thus caused turn yellow or orange color the mushroom is 
 poisonous, but otherwise it is quite safe. I have tried re- 
 peated baskets of mushrooms in this way, some turning yel- 
 low and others retaining the usual color, though in all 
 other respects to all appearance the same." 
 
 Forney's Progress on mushrooms : 
 
 He saw a fellow gathering mushrooms, and he knew they 
 were the poisonous kind. 
 
 " Take care," he said, "those mushrooms are poisonous." 
 
 " Oh ! that makes no difference," replied the man. " I am 
 not going to eat them ; I'm gathering them for market." 
 
 The Mystery of making Loaf Bread — A Trustworthy 
 Receipt. — " Loaf bread," once said an experienced house- 
 keeper to us, " interferes with the salvation of more house- 
 keepers than any other one thing in the world." This was 
 probably an extravagant statement, yet to the country house- 
 wife who cannot turn to a convenient bakery the duty of 
 breadmaking is too often a heavy cross — a sort of hit-or-miss 
 experiment. Heavy, sour bread is far more general than the 
 opposite, and this is trying to both the digestions and to the 
 tempers of the family who eat it. Yet there is no reason 
 for this; there is a philosophy of breadmaking as of every- 
 thing else, and certain causes accomplish certain results. 
 Therefore we are glad to be able to give a receipt from a 
 practical housekeeper whose bread never fails: To make two 
 quarts of bread or rolls take four or five nice, large Irish 
 potatoes, peel and cut them up, and put them to boil in just 
 enough water to cover them. When done mash smooth in 
 the same water, and when cool, not cold, add a half-teacup- 
 ful of yeast — or, if you use compressed yeast, the sixth part of 
 a cake dissolved in tepid water — a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a 
 
€0 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 little salt, a tablespoonful of lard, and a pint of flour. Mix 
 together lightly. This should be very soft and quite sticky. 
 Set by in a covered vessel in a warm place to rise. In two 
 or three hours it will be risen, and should look almost like 
 yeast, full of bubbles. Now work in the rest of your two 
 quarts of flour, and, if necessary, add a little cold water. 
 The dough should be rather soft and need not be kneaded 
 more than half an hour. Set to rest in a moderately warm 
 place for four hours or thereabouts. It can be baked now 
 if wanted at once, but, if not, take a spoon and push the 
 dough down from the top and sides of the vessel containing 
 it, and let it rise again. The oftener the bread rises the 
 lighter it will be — three times is, however, sufficient. After 
 it rises the last time take it out of the vessel and knead it 
 with your hands until it is smooth. If too soft add a little 
 more flour. For rolls, roll out and cut as if for biscuit. If 
 you prefer doubled rolls give each a touch with the rolling- 
 pin to make it oblong, and then double it over. The baking- 
 pan must be greased and the rolls must not touch each other. 
 Set down to rise; this will take half or three-quarters of an 
 hour. Then put in the oven and bake as you would biscuit. 
 Unless the oven is hot the rolls will spread and the crust be 
 hard. — Col. McClure's Philadetyhia Times. 
 
 Wheat Bread. — Put seven pounds of flour into a bread- 
 pan, hollow out the centre, and add a quart of lukewarm 
 water, a teaspoonful of salt, and a wineglassful of yeast. Have 
 ready more warm water, and add gradually as much as will 
 make a smooth, soft dough. Knead it well; dust a little flour 
 over it, cover it with a cloth, and set it in a warm place for 
 four hours ; then knead it again for fifteen minutes and let it 
 rise again. Divide it into loaves and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Corn Bread. — Sift three quarts of corn meal, add a table- 
 spoonful of salt, and mix sufficient water with it to make a 
 very thin batter. Cover it with a bread-cloth and set it to 
 rise. When ready to bake stir it well, pour it into a baking- 
 pan, and bake slowly. Use cold water in summer and hot 
 water in winter. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 61 
 
 Continental Hotel Corn Bread. — Sift together a pound and 
 a half wheat flour, one pound Indian meal, two ounces Koyal 
 Baking Powder, and a tablespoonf ul salt. Beat together three 
 ounces of sugar, three ounces of butter, and four eggs; add 
 the mixture to the flour, and make a stiff batter by adding 
 warm milk if in winter, cold milk in summer. Bake in 
 small square moulds. 
 
 Continental Hotel Muffins. — Mix two and a half pounds 
 flour, three ounces Royal Baking Powder, and tablespoonf ul 
 salt. Beat up three ounces of sugar, three ounces butter, 
 and four eggs together ; add to the flour, make a batter with 
 milk, half fill the muffin-rings, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Boston Brown Bread.— Sift together thoroughly half a pint 
 of flour, one pint corn meal, half a pint rye flour, one tea- 
 spoonful salt, one tablespoonful brown sugar, and two tea- 
 spoonfuls baking powder. Peel, wash, and boil two mealy 
 potatoes; rub them through the sieve, diluting with half a 
 pint of water. When this is quite cold use it to make a 
 batter and pour it into a well-greased mould having a cover. 
 Place it in a saucepan of boiling water. Simmer one hour 
 without the water getting into it ; take it out of the water, 
 remove the cover, and finish cooking by baking about thirty 
 minutes. 
 
 Steamed Brown Bread. — One quart each of milk and Indian 
 meal, one pint of rye meal, one cup of molasses, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of soda. Add a little salt and steam four hours. 
 
 M. G. H. 
 
 Milk Biscuit. — Take one-fourth of a pound butter, one 
 quart lukewarm milk, two wineglassfnls yeast, salt to taste, 
 and as much flour as will form the dough. Stir flour into 
 the milk to make a thick batter, and add the yeast. This 
 should be done in the evening. Next morning melt the 
 butter and pour it into the sponge; add flour enough to make 
 a stiff dough; knead it well and set it aside to rise. When 
 perfectly light roll it out an inch thick and cut the biscuits, 
 set them in shallow baking-pans, and set them in a mode- 
 
62 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 rately warm place to rise. When they are light brush beaten 
 egg over them and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Corn Cakes. — Scrape twelve ears of corn, use two eggs, one 
 and one-half cups of milk, salt and pepper to taste, and flour 
 enough to hold all together. Fry in hot fat. m. g. h. 
 
 Fried Bread Cakes. — Add half a cupful of melted butter, 
 three of " A " sugar, four eggs, teaspoonful of salt, and a 
 little grated nutmeg to five cupfuls of dough. Knead these 
 well together with flour, and set it before the fire to rise 
 until very light. Knead the dough again after it rises, and 
 cut it into diamond or crescent shaped cakes; let them rise, 
 and fry them in boiling fat. 
 
 Pies. — Pie, and the extent to which it is consumed in this 
 country, have long been a subject upon which Europeans tra- 
 velling here have exercised their descriptive and imaginative 
 powers. It seems to be a cardinal belief on the other side 
 that no meal is furnished here without a superabundance of 
 pie; that, even at the best inns and restaurants in New 
 York, Boston, and Philadelphia, pie is devoured at breakfast, 
 luncheon, dinner, and supper ; that no American would sit 
 down to a table where he could not see plenty of pie; that 
 all the States are closely connected and bound together by a 
 prejudice in favor of pie; that it was love of pie rather than 
 force of patriotism which, in the civil war, preserved the 
 Union. Sala is one of the latest Englishmen to descant on 
 the omnipresence and national omnivorousness of pie. He 
 devotes ample space to it in one of his recent letters to the 
 London Telegraph ; admits that he has eaten it, and that it 
 is so very toothsome that it is difficult to resist its tempta- 
 tions. He has done what a great many of our own people 
 never do. Hundreds of families in this and in other cities 
 do not see a pie from beginning to end of the year. Thou- 
 sands of natives have never tasted pie. In the large towns 
 of the Middle States it is but seldom put on the table. 
 New England, indeed, is the region to which pie is indige- 
 nous, though even there it is confined mainly to the rural 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 63 
 
 districts. It appears odd, however, that Englishmen should 
 so animadvert on our pies, as if they had never tasted or 
 heard of such things. They have any quantity of pies at 
 home, but these are meat pies, commonly of pork and mut- 
 ton, and as hostile to gastric conditions as bad pastry and 
 poor baking can conveniently make them. They have, too, 
 any number of fruit pies, giving them the name of tarts, not 
 to be compared with our pies. The gooseberry tart, almost 
 as much a British dish as plum-pudding, is eaten from 
 Cornwall to Northumberland, and that its eaters survive it 
 proves the strength and elasticity of the national stomach. 
 It is usually as heavy as lead and a guarantee of indiges- 
 tion. The French also have numberless pies under the dis- 
 guise of tartes, but no better than, often not so good as, 
 ours. In truth, the American pie is widely prevalent in the 
 Old World, where, as a rule, it is inferior to the native 
 article. . new york times. 
 
 Puff Paste. — Good sweet, salt butter, which has been washed 
 in cold water, squeezed between the hands to free it from 
 the salt, and afterwards wrung in a cloth to take away all 
 the moisture, is the best material that can be used. The 
 consistency of the butter is of much importance. If it is too 
 hard it will not easily mix with the flour, but if it is too 
 soft the paste will be entirely spoilt in consequence of the 
 butter breaking through the edges while it is being rolled. 
 As the difficulty experienced is generally to get the butter 
 sufficiently cool, it is a good plan to place "it upon ice before 
 using it for the pastry. In hot weather the paste should be 
 placed in a cool place a few minutes between each turn. If 
 very flaky pastry is required, the paste may be brushed 
 lightly over each time it is rolled with white of egg. Sift 
 one pound of flour ; put it on the pastry-board. Make a 
 hole in the centre ; add half a teaspoonsful salt and little 
 less than half a pint of ice-water. The exact quantity of 
 water cannot be given, owing to the difference in flour, but 
 experience will soon enable you to determine when the paste 
 is sufficiently stiff. Mix it in gradually with a knife, then 
 
64 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 work it lightly with the hands to form a smooth paste. 
 Have ready three-quarters of a pound of butter. Flatten the 
 paste till it is an inch thick ; lay the butter in the centre, 
 and fold over the four sides of the paste so as to form a 
 square and completely hide the butter. Leave this to cool a 
 few minutes, then dredge the board and the paste with 
 flour, and roll the paste out very thin, and be especially care- 
 ful that the butter does not break through the flour. Fold 
 over a third of the length from one end, and lay the other 
 third upon it. This folding into three is called giving one 
 turn. Let the paste rest for a few minutes, then give it two 
 more turns ; rest again, and give it two more. This will be 
 in all five turns, and these will generally be found sufficient. 
 If, however, the pastry is to be used for patties, etc., six or 
 seven turns will be required. Gather the paste together, 
 and it is ready for use, and should be baked as soon as pos- 
 sible ; and remember to dredge a little flour over it, the 
 board, and rolling-pin every time it is rolled, to keep it from 
 sticking. French cooks mix the yolks of tAvo eggs with 
 flour and water in the first instance. If a very rich paste is 
 required a pound of butter to a pound of flour may be used. 
 
 CASSELL. 
 
 Paste. — One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, half a 
 pound of lard. With a little water make a dough of the 
 flour and lard ; then roll it ; spread a portion of the butter 
 over it ; fold and roll again ; add more butter, and so on un- 
 til you have used the half-pound all up. 
 
 You cannot make good paste out of poor flour. The 
 « Perfection New Process Flour " will give you entire satis- 
 faction. 
 
 Apple-pie. — Make a good cruet and cover your plates with 
 it. Pare, core, and cut up the apples in small pieces ; put 
 them on to etew in just water enough to cover them ; quarter 
 a lemon and stew with the apples. When soft mash the ap- 
 ples, remove the seeds if any, sweeten to taste, and flavor 
 with nutmeg or ground cinnamon. 
 
 Sliced Apple Pie. — Make a good, light crust ; wet the edge 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 65 
 
 of the pie-plate and lay a thin strip all round. Pare, core, 
 and slice the apples ; lay them on the paste with a little sugar, 
 the juice of half a lemon ; flavor with nutmeg. Lay a top 
 crust over the fruit, and bake nearly three-quarters of an 
 hour. 
 
 Apple Meringue Pie. — Prepare the pie as in the foregoing 
 receipt, omitting the upper crust, and while the pie is baking 
 prepare a meringue by beating up the whites of three eggs 
 with three ounces of powdered sugar to a stiff broth ; spread 
 two-thirds of the mixture over the fire, and put the other third 
 into a paper funnel or cornucopia, and by squeezing it de- 
 corate the pie according to fancy ; dust sugar over it. Re- 
 turn it to the oven to set the meringue. 
 
 Apple-Custard Pie. — Beat up six eggs with a cupful of su- 
 gar ; add them to three cupfuls of stewed apples (cold), and 
 add gradually a quart of milk to the mixture ; season with 
 nutmeg ; cover the pie-plate with a good crust, with the 
 edge neatly arranged; fill the pie with the custard, and bake. 
 
 Mince-meat for Pie. — Shred and chop very fine two pounds 
 of beef-suet ; by dredging the suet occasionally with flour it 
 chops more easily and does not clog ; boil slowly, but 
 thoroughly, two pounds of lean round of beef and chop fine 
 (mix all the ingredients as they are prepared) ; stone and cut 
 fine two pounds of raisins ; wash and pick two pounds of cur- 
 rants ; cut fine half a pound of citron ; chop two pounds of 
 apples, weighing them after they have been peeled and cored; 
 a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonf ul of ground cinnamon, a 
 grated nutmeg, a saltspoonful of allspice, half as much 
 cloves, half an ounce of essence of almonds, a pint of brandy, 
 and a pint of cider. This may be kept in a cool place all 
 winter. If too dry add more cider. 
 
 Manufacturers are competing w r ith each other in the pre- 
 paration of mince-meat to such an extent that it is no lon- 
 ger economy to prepare your mince-meat at home. Most of 
 our first-class hotels use the "Thanksgiving Brand,*' a genu- 
 
66 Valuable Cool :ing Receipts. 
 
 ine New England preparation. It is put tip in five or ten 
 pound buckets, and I consider it a great saving to families, 
 both in time and materials, to secure their meat all ready 
 prepared, when they know they can get a reliable article. 
 
 When you are about to make mince-pies moisten the meat 
 with cider, port, brandy, or water. 
 
 Pumpkin Pie. — Cut the pumpkin into strips, and stew 
 them in water enough to cover them nicely ; when done 
 pour off the water and press the pumpkin through a sieve; 
 add to the pulp two quarts of milk, and nine eggs to every 
 quart of pulp; sweeten with sugar (beat the sugar and eggs 
 together), and season liberally with ginger and nutmeg; 
 prepare the pie-plates with a crust as for custard pies ; rill 
 the plate with the mixture, and bake in a hot oven. 
 Serve the pies when cold. After drawing off the water from 
 the pumpkin cover the pot with a towel and let it stand half an 
 hour on the back part of the range to dry out the moisture. 
 
 Fruit Pies. — The under-paste for fruit pies may be made of 
 flour and lard, but the top is generally made of good puff- 
 paste ; it may cover the pie entirely or only in strips, accord- 
 ing to fancy. Should the fruit require longer cooking 
 than the paste, prepare it by stewing or simmering before 
 filling the pies with it. 
 
 Custard Pies. — Line a well-buttered pie-plate with a good 
 paste ; arrange a thick pie rim round the edge of the plate; 
 beat up four eggs with one cupful of sugar, and gradually add 
 a pint and a half of milk; fill the pies while in the oven; 
 grate a little nutmeg over them and bake about twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 Lemon Cream Pie. — Boil a pint and a half of milk, and add 
 three tablespoonfuls corn-starch dissolved in a little cold milk. 
 Eeturn the milk to the fire ; take the juice of two lemons, 
 four eggs, one cupful sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
 Beat these ingredients together, and add to the milk ; flavor 
 with a teaspoonful of extract of lemon and grated nutmeg ; 
 pour the mixture into the pies (prepared as for custard pies) 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 67 
 
 and bake. When done remove from the oven and set it 
 aside. Whip up the whites of four eggs to a froth, and gra- 
 dually add a cupful of powdered sugar ; spread two-thirds of 
 the mixture on the pie, and put the other one-third into a 
 cornucopia, and by squeezing it decorate the pie according 
 to fancy. Return it to the oven a few minutes to set the 
 
 Lemon Cream Pie, No. 2. — One tablespoonf ul of corn-starch 
 dissolved in cold water, one cupful of boiling hot water, one 
 tablespoonf ul of butter, one egg, juice and rind of one lemon. 
 Sweeten to taste, and set aside to get cold. Fill crust with 
 this cream, and bake in a hot oven. M. G. h. 
 
 Orange Pie. — Work a teacupful of powdered sugar and a 
 tablespoonf ul of butter to a cream. Mix a tablespoonf ul of 
 corn-starch with a little cold water, and add a teacupful of 
 boiling water; let it cook long enough to thicken, stirring 
 constantly ; then pour the mixture on to the butter and sugar. 
 Grate the peel from half an orange, and chop the other half 
 fine — first removing all the inner white skin. Add this to 
 the former ingredients, also a beaten egg_ and the juice of an 
 orange. Peel another orange, and slice it in little thin bits, 
 being careful to remove all the seeds and the tough white 
 skin. Line a pie-plate with nice paste and bake it until just 
 done ; then fill with the custard and orange slices, and bake 
 long enough to cook the egg. A meringue made with the 
 whites of two eggs, a pinch of salt, and two tablespoonf uls 
 of powdered sugar, beaten to a stiff froth, will be an im- 
 provement. Spread it over the pie ; sift powdered sugar on 
 the top, and set it .'.gain in the oven until slightly colored. 
 
 English Plum Pudding.— Take six ounces of finely grated 
 bread, and mix with them a pound of flour, a pound of beef 
 suet floured and chopped tine, a teaspoonf ul salt, half a pound 
 of granulated sugar, three-fourths of a pound of raisins 
 stoned and chopped, three-fourths of a pound of washed 
 currants, two ounces each of candied lemon and orange 
 
68 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 peel, two ounces of citron shredded, a quarter of a pound 
 apple chopped fine, half an ounce of mixed spice, con- 
 sisting of ground cloves, cinnamon, and grated nutmeg, 
 and half a teaspoonful of fresh grated lemon-peel. Mix 
 these ingredients thoroughly, and work the mixture into a 
 stiff batter by adding to it five eggs beaten up with half a 
 pint of rich milk and a gill of brandy; turn the mixture 
 into a floured towel; shape it nicely; tie it up not too tight- 
 ly, but leave room enough for it to swell. Put it into a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for five hours unin- 
 terruptedly. Have a kettle of boiling water ready to add to 
 your saucepan as fast as the water evaporates. When done 
 sift powdered sugar over it; pour a little brandy or Jamaica 
 rum round it; set a match to the liquor, and send it to the 
 table with a hard or brandy sauce. 
 
 Plum-Pudding Sauce. — Four ounces sugar and two ounces 
 butter, well creamed together; then beat an egg well into it, 
 with two ounces of brandy. 
 
 New England Plum Pudding.— Two pounds bread, four 
 quarts milk, three pounds raisins, two grated nutmegs, three 
 teaspoonfuls each of cinnamon and allspice, eight eggs, 
 one cup sugar, and one cup molasses. Bake three hours. 
 
 M. G. H. 
 
 Plain Plum Pudding. — Flour six ounces of suet, and chop 
 it fine; add a quarter of a pound of currants, the same 
 quantity of raisins, half a teaspoonful salt, and a teaspoon- 
 ful Koyal Baking Powder; sift a pound of flour into the mix- 
 ture; mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them 
 nearly a pint of milk with three tablespoonfuls of molasses; 
 add a little mixed spice; shape the pudding nicely; tie it up 
 in a floured towel, allowing room for it to swell, and boil 
 three hours. 
 
 Boiled Pudding. — Take a cupful of chopped suet, a cupful 
 of grated bread, and a cupful of washed currants; mix with 
 two tablespoonfuls sugar, a teaspoonful of grated lemon- 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 69 
 
 peel, a salt-spoonful salt, and grated nutmeg; beat up two 
 eggs with half a cupful of milk, and work the mixture to a 
 light paste; wring some small cloths out of boiliug water, 
 flour them, and tie in each a small portion of the mixture; 
 plunge them into boiling water, let them boil quickly half 
 an hour, turn them out on a hot dish, dash sugar over them, 
 and serve with a sauce made of sweetened melted butter, 
 with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel, nutmeg to taste ; a 
 few spoonfuls of brandy will improve it. 
 
 Batter Pudding. — Beat the yolks and whites of four eggs 
 separately, and mix them with six or eight ounces of flour 
 and a salt-spoonful of salt. Make the batter of the proper 
 consistency by adding a little more than a pint of milk; mix 
 carefully; butter a baking-tin, pour the mixture into it, and 
 bake three-quarters of an hour. Serve with vanilla sauce. 
 
 Vanilla Sauce. — Put half a pint of milk in a small sauce- 
 pan over the fire; when scalding hot add the yolks of three 
 eggs, and stir until it is as thick as boiled custard; remove 
 the saucepan from the fire, and when cool add a tablespoon - 
 ful of Thurber's double extract of vanilla and the beaten 
 whites of two eggs. 
 
 Chocolate Pudding. — One quart of milk boiled with one 
 ounce of grated chocolate; sweeten to taste, and flavor with 
 vanilla. Boil thoroughly, and stand aside to cool fifteen 
 minutes ; then stir in the yolks of six eggs, well beaten ; 
 bake in a pudding-dish until it stiffens like custard. Beat 
 the whites of six eggs, with six tablespoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar, to a stiff froth, and spread over top of pudding; put 
 in oven and brown quickly. m. g. h. 
 
 Crullers. — Half a pint of buttermilk, one cupful of butter, 
 two cupfuls sugar, and three eggs; beat up the eggs and add 
 the sugar and milk. Dissolve half a teaspoonful of saleratus 
 in a liitle hot water; add to the mixture, with a teaspoonful 
 salt, half a nutmeg grated, and half a teaspoonful of fresh 
 ground cinnamon. Work in as much sifted flour as will 
 make a smooth dough ; mix thoroughly; dredge the board, 
 
70 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 rolling-pin, and dough with flour; roll it out and cut it in 
 rings or fingers, and fry in hot fat. 
 
 I have recommended buttermilk in the above receipt, 
 knowing its excellent qualities ; but the majority of house- 
 keepers consider it utterly useless. The following from the 
 British Mail is appropriate here: "As the butter which is 
 taken from the milk is only the carbonaceous or heat-pro- 
 ducing element, there are still left in it all the nourishing 
 properties which make it so valuable as food. As a drink 
 for men at work in the hot sun buttermilk is far prefer- 
 able to cider, metheglin, switchel, or any preparation of beer 
 whatever, as it is not only cooling and refreshing, but also 
 strength-giving. Of course there are plenty of people, who 
 are constantly dosing themselves with blood-searchers, liver- 
 purifiers, and stomach-invigorators, who would laugh at the 
 mention of buttermilk as a medicine, and yet if they could 
 be once persuaded to try drinking a glass of that fresh bever- 
 age every day they would soon find a corrective of their poor 
 appetites and ' clogged-up' livers. In a little book of 
 ' Plain Directions for the Care of the Sick,' written by an 
 intelligent physician of Philadelphia, who has under his 
 medical supervision several charitable institutions, we find 
 buttermilk mentioned as being very useful, especially in 
 fevers, as an article of diet for the sick." 
 
 Baking Powder. — I have endeavored to recommend to my 
 many readers a few articles used in cooking that my long 
 experience as a caterer has taught me are the best. A good 
 baking powder is a very important article to have in every 
 household, but it is difficult to get a powder without the 
 presence of alum. 
 
 The Brooklyn Board of Health, on motion of President 
 Crane, the Sanitary Superintendent, was directed to procure 
 samples of the various kinds of baking powders sold in 
 Brooklyn, have them analyzed, and make a report thereon 
 to the Board. Without going in detail into the constitution 
 of baking powders, it will only be necessary to say that they 
 are made with bicarbonate of soda, or carbonate of ammonia, 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 71 
 
 and cream of tartar, chemically known as the bitartrate of 
 potassa. But the lack of skill, resulting in lumps of soda in 
 the product, led manufacturers to ascertain the proper pro- 
 portion of these salts and to mix them, selling the compound 
 as a baking powder. Some of the manufacturers, on account 
 of the cheapness of alum, have introduced it as an ingredient 
 into baking powder, and the report of the Brooklyn Board 
 concludes as follows: "From a careful examination we are 
 satisfied that the weight of evidence is against the use of alum 
 in baking powders, and that the risks incurred in its use are 
 too great to be incurred for the sake of cheapness alone. 
 The mucous membrane of the stomach and the intestinal 
 canal is a delicate structure, and materials which would pro- 
 duce no effect on the outside skin might irritate and inflame 
 these organs." 
 
 Dr. Mott, the Government Chemist, in his review of the 
 subject, makes special mention of having analyzed the Royal 
 Baking Powder and found it composed of pure and wholesome 
 materials. He also advises the public to avoid purchasing 
 baking powders as sold loose or in bulk, as he has found by 
 analyses of many samples that the worst adulterations are 
 practised in this form. And I may cheerfully add that our 
 first-class hotels use only the best of everything, not only in 
 baking powders but in every article that enters their store- 
 rooms, and that Royal Baking Powder is the only baking 
 powder they allow used in then* bakeries, it being free from 
 alum and other unwholesome ingredients. 
 
 Roly-Poly Pudding. — One quart of flour, one-half pound 
 of suet chopped fine ; rub in a little salt with flour, wet with 
 water, and then roll it out and spread any kind of fruit over 
 it. Roll up, put in cloth, and boil one hour. M. G. h. 
 
 Roly-Poly Lemcn Pudding.— Take the pulp from three 
 lemons ; remove the pith and add to it an equal weight of 
 sugar ; boil tw T enty minutes ; then set the mixture to cool. 
 Chop up seven ounces of suet, and mix it with one pound 
 of flour, a salt-spoonful of salt, and water enough to make a 
 paste ; roll it out nearly an inch in thickness ; spread the 
 
72 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 lemon mixture upon it, and roll it into a long pudding; 
 pinch the ends together, tie it in a floured cloth, put it in- 
 to boiling water, and boil constantly for two hours. Serve 
 with wine-sauce. 
 
 Marlborough Pudding. — Grate apples enough to make eight 
 ounces ; add to this eight ounces of fine white sugar which 
 has been well rubbed on the rind of a large lemon, six well- 
 beaten eggs, three tablesj)oonfuls of cream, the strained juice 
 of thiee lemons, eight ounces of butter; add quantity at 
 pleasure of orange-flower water, and the grated peel of an 
 orange and a lemon ; line the pie-dish with rich puff-paste, 
 put in the mixture, and let it bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Macaroni Pudding. — Butter a pie-dish, and cover the bot- 
 tom with two and one-half ounces uncooked macaroni ; pour 
 over it one quart of cold milk, add two tablespoonfuls of su- 
 gar, stir in two well-beaten eggs, and flavor with one tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla (double extract) or any flavoring desired. 
 Put bits of butter over top, dust a little grated nutmeg over 
 top, and bake slowly two hours and a half. 
 
 Steamed Arrowroot Pudding. — Mix two tablespoonfuls of 
 Beatty's Bermuda arrowroot with one cupful of milk ; flavor 
 one pint and a half of milk with any desired flavoring, put 
 it on the fire, and when it boils pour it upon the arrow- 
 root ; stir well, and when it is cool add three well-beaten 
 eggs, one tablespoonful each of sugar and brandy; put it into 
 a well-buttered mould, cover, and steam it one hour and a 
 half; then turn it out on a dish, and arrange some preserves 
 or jam neatly around it, and serve. 
 
 Almond Pudding. — Blanch and pound, with a little water, 
 three ounces of sweet and four ounces of bitter almonds; add 
 one pint of milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little gra- 
 ted nutmeg, one tablespoonful of flour mixed smoothly in a 
 little cold milk, one tablespoonful of grated bread, two eggs 
 well beaten, and the whites of two eggs whisked to a froth ; 
 pour the mixture into a buttered mould, cover, and boil quick- 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 73 
 
 ly three-quarters of an hour; let it stand a few minutes be- 
 fore turning out of mould. Serve with vanilla sauce. 
 
 Bachelor's Pudding. — Beat up three eggs, flavor with es- 
 sence of lemon and grated nutmeg, and add them to four 
 ounces each of finely-minced apples, currants, grated bread- 
 crumbs, and two ounces of sugar ; mix thoroughly and boil 
 in a buttered mould nearly three hours. Serve with following 
 sauce. 
 
 Wine Sauce. — Boil the thin rind of half a lemon in one 
 wineglassful of water till the flavor is extracted ; then take 
 it out and thicken the sauce by stirring into it one salt- 
 spoonful of rice, flour, or arrowroot which has been mixed 
 in water or milk, a walnut of butter ; boil a moment, then 
 add half a tumblerful of good wine ; let the sauce get quite 
 hot without boiling, sweeten a little, and serve with the pud- 
 ding. 
 
 Bird's-Nest Pudding. — Make the foundation of nest of blanc- 
 mange or corn-stare l) ; grate the rinds of three lemons, and 
 arrange around the blanc-mange to represent straw ; extract 
 the contents of four eggs through a small hole and fill the 
 egg-shells with hot blanc-mange or corn-starch ; when cold 
 break off the shells and lay the moulded eggs in nest. Serve 
 with jam or preserves. 
 
 Harlan's Pudding. — Take three ounces each of butter, 
 sugar, and flour; whisk two eggs thoroughly, and gradually 
 mix with them the loaf-sugar, which must be rubbed well on 
 the rind of a lemon before it is pounded ; then add the 
 flour and the butter partially melted, a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 and a little grated nutmeg. Butter insides of several cups ; 
 put a little jam at the bottom of each, and fill them nearly 
 full with the mixture; bake half an hour ; turn them out 
 and serve with wine sauce. 
 
 Cocoanut Pudding. — Beat two eggs with one cupful of new 
 milk ; add one-quarter of a pound of grated cocoanut ; mix 
 with it three tablespoonfuls each of grated bread and pow- 
 
74 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 dered sugar, two ounces of melted butter, five ounces of rai- 
 sins, and one teaspoonf ul of grated lemon-peel ; beat the 
 whole well together ; pour the mixture into a buttered dish, 
 and bake in a slow oven ; then turn it out, dust sugar over 
 it, and serve. This pudding may be either boiled or baked. 
 
 Citron Pudding. — Sift two tablespoonfuls of flour and 
 mix with the beaten yolks of six. eggs ; add gradually one 
 pint of sweet cream, a quarter of a pound of citron cut in 
 small strips, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar; mix thoroughly, 
 pour the batter into buttered tins, and bake twenty -five 
 minutes. Serve with wine or vanilla sauce. 
 
 Eve's Pudding. — Beat six ounces of butter to a cream ; add 
 six ounces of sifted flour and six of sugar ; separate the 
 yolks from the whites of four eggs ; beat them till they are 
 light, then add the beaten yolks and afterwards the whites to 
 the batter; mix, and add half a dozen pounded almonds and 
 the grated rind of one lemon. Fill small tins about half full ; 
 set them before the fire for a few minutes, and when they 
 have risen place them in the oven and bake for half an 
 hour. Serve with a sweet fruit sauce. 
 
 Sliced-Apple Pudding. — Mix two tablespoonfuls of arrow- 
 root with one pint of cream ; add two tablespoonfuls of 
 sugar ; put in stew-pan and place over fire until it boils. 
 Slice thinly apples enough to fill a large-sized dish, laying them 
 in a dish with alternate layers of apples and sugar and small 
 walnuts of butter; pour on a tumblerful of jam as next layer, 
 and over all pour mixture of arrowroot. Bake in moderate 
 oven twenty-five minutes. 
 
 Astor-House Pudding. — Mix one tablespoonful of flour with 
 two of milk; pour over it one cupful of boiling milk flavored 
 with one teaspoonful extract of vanilla; add one tablespoonful 
 of sugar, a walnut of butter, and the yolk of an egg, beaten. 
 Line the edge of pudding-dish with a rich puff-paste, and 
 fill the dish two-thirds full with slices of sponge-cake over 
 which a good jam has been spread ; pour the custard over 
 them and bake in a moderate oven; when done take out. Beat 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 75 
 
 up the whites of two eggs with nearly one cupful of powdered 
 sugar ; spread the meringue over the pudding, and sprinkle 
 a little sugar over it ; return it to the oven a few minutes until 
 the meringue is fawn-colored, and serve in dish with clean, 
 white napkin neatly bound around the sides. 
 
 A good wine-sauce may be served with it if desired. 
 
 Manhattan Pudding. — Dissolve a walnut of saleratus in one 
 tablespoont'ul of hot water; mix one cupful of milk, three 
 well-beaten eggs, two tablespoonf uls of flour (mixed with cold 
 milk), one pinch of salt, and four ounces of chopped citron ; 
 add saleratus, and mix all thoroughly ; pour the mixture in- 
 to a buttered mould, tie mould in a floured cloth, boil one 
 hour and a half, turn out, and serve with a fruit-sauce. 
 
 Manioca Pudding. — Three tablespoonf uls of manioca, one 
 quart of milk, a little salt, one tablespoonful of butter, and 
 two well-beaten eggs ; sugar, spice, or flavoring to the taste. 
 Mix manioca in half the milk cold, and, with the butter, stir 
 on the fire until it thickens or boils ; pour it quickly into a 
 dish, stir in the sugar and the remaining milk, and when 
 quite cool add the eggs, spice, and wine or other flavoring. 
 This pudding may be varied by omitting the eggs and sub- 
 stituting currants, chopped raisins or candied lemon, orange 
 or citron sliced. Bake half an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 CAKES. 
 
 English Christinas Cake.— Sift five pounds of flour ; mix 
 with it one tablespoonful of salt, one pound and a half of 
 butter, and half a pint of fresh brewer's yeast or five tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder ; if yeast is used allow dough to 
 rise before adding other ingredients ; mix in three pounds 
 of washed currants, one pound and a half of "A" sugar, a 
 whole nutmeg grated, one quarter of a pound of chopped 
 candied lemon-peel, one wineglassful of brandy, and four 
 
76 Valuable CooJdng Receipts. 
 
 well-beaten eggs ; butter the tins and line them with but- 
 tered paper ; bake in a moderate oven for two hours. The 
 quantity of brandy recommended will serve to keep these 
 cakes fresh for an indefinite time. 
 
 Apple Snow. — Eeduce half a dozen apples to a pulp; press 
 them through a sieve ; add half a cupful powdered sugar 
 and a teaspoonful of extract of lemon ; take the whites 
 of six eggs, whip them for several minutes, and sprinkle two 
 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar over them ; beat the apple 
 pulp to a froth, and add the beaten egg ; whip the mixture 
 until it looks like stiff snow ; then pile it high in rough por- 
 tions on a glass dish, garnish with small spoonfuls of currant- 
 jelly, and stick a sprig of green on top. 
 
 Almond Cake. — Blanch and pound in a mortar thoroughly 
 eight ounces of sweet and one of bitter almonds; add a few 
 drops of rosevvater or white of egg every few minutes to 
 prevent oiling ; add six tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar and 
 eight beaten eggs ; sift in six tablespoonfuls of flour and work 
 it thoroughly with the mixture, gradually add a quarter 
 of a pound of creamed butter ; beat the mixture constantly 
 while preparing the cake, or it will be heavy ; pour the mix- 
 ture into a buttered tin (place a buttered paper between the 
 tin and the cake), allowing room for it to rise, and bake in a 
 quick oven. Should the oven prove too hot for it, and the 
 cake be in danger of burning, cover it with paper for a few 
 minutes. 
 
 Almond Sponge Cake. — Take half a pound of loaf-sugar, 
 rub the rind of lemon on a few of the lumps, and crush the 
 whole to a powder ; separate the whites from the yolks of 
 five eggs, beat the yolks, and add the sugar gradually; 
 then beat the whites to a stiff froth; add it to the dish, and 
 sift in flour enough to make a batter ; add a tablespoonful of 
 essence of almonds; butter and paper a tin, pour in the mix- 
 ture until the tin is two-thirds full, and bake one hour in a 
 moderate oven. The bottom of the tin may be studded with 
 small pieces of almonds. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 77 
 
 Zephyr Cakes. — Excellent tea-cakes. Wash the salt out of 
 nearly a quarter of a pound of butter; add to it a quarter of 
 a pound of powdered sugar and three well-beaten eggs, a 
 teaspoonf ul of rosewater, and sifted flour enough to make a 
 thin batter; stir it with a wooden spoon till the batter is 
 perfectly smooth and so light that it will break when it falls 
 against the sides of the mixing-bowl ; fill well-buttered 
 muffin-moulds (small) nearly half full with the mixture, and 
 bake in a quick oven ; serve hot with newly-made butter. 
 
 Columbia Cake, — Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter 
 to a cream; add gradually a pound of sugar, four well-beaten 
 eggs, a cupful of milk, half a grated nutmeg, a salt spoonful 
 cinnamon, a wineglassful of brandy, nearly two pounds of 
 flour, and half a pound of washed currants ; beat these in- 
 gredients together twenty minutes. Dissolve a teaspoonf ul 
 of saleratus in a few spoonfuls of hot water, and stir it into 
 the mixture ; butter the pan and line it with buttered paper, 
 pour in the cake, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Knickerbocker Cakes. — Beat half a pound of fresh butter 
 to a cream; add half a pound of powdered sugar, three-quar- 
 ters of a pound of sifted flour, a tablespoonful of orange- 
 flower water and one of brandy, and four ounces of washed 
 currants ; add five well-beaten eggs, and beat the mixture 
 until very light. Line some shallow cake-tins with buttered 
 paper, pour in the mixture until they are half-full, and bake 
 in a quick oven. 
 
 Cocoanut Cake. — One and a half cups of sugar, half a cup 
 each of butter and milk, one cup of cocoanut grated fine, 
 two cups flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake 
 in pans with dry cocoanut sprinkled over the top (three 
 cakes). M. G. h. 
 
 Olive Gingerbread. — Five and one-half cups of flour, two 
 cups of molasses, one cup of sour cream, half a cup of but- 
 ter, and two teaspoonf uls each of soda and ginger. M. G. H. 
 
 Chocolate Cake. — Outside: Half a cup of butter, two cups 
 
78 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 of sugar, one cup of cold water, three cups of flour, four 
 eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, and three teaspoon- 
 fuls of baking powder. Inside ; Five tablepoonfuls of grated 
 chocolate with enough cream or milk to wet it, one cupful of 
 brown sugar, and one egg well beaten. Let it come to a boil, 
 and then flavor with vanilla. Cake is made in layers like 
 jelly cake. m. g. h. 
 
 Chocolate Macaroons. — Put three ounces of plain choco- 
 late in a pan, and melt, on a slow fire ; then work it to a 
 thick paste with one pound of powdered sugar and the 
 whites of three eggs ; roll the mixture down to the thick- 
 ness of about one-quarter of an inch ; cut it in small, round 
 pieces with a paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped; butter a 
 pan slightly, and dust it with flour and sugar in equal quan- 
 tities; place in it the pieces of paste or mixture, and bake in 
 a hot but not quick oven. 
 
 Whortleberry Cake. — One quart of flour, one cupful of 
 sugar, one pint of berries, a little salt, and three teaspoon- 
 fuls of baking powder. Mix stiff with milk like biscuit. 
 
 M. G. H. 
 
 "Whortleberry Cake, No. 2. — One cupful of sugar, two eggs, 
 one and a half cupfuls of milk with half a teaspoonful of 
 soda dissolved in it; butter size of an egg, one quart of ber- 
 ries, one teaspoonful of cream-tartar, and flour enough to make 
 a stiff batter. Bake in muffin-rings or tins. 
 
 Cocoanut Pound Cake. — Beat half a pound of butter to a 
 cream ; add gradually a pound of sifted flour, one pound 
 of powdered sugar, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a 
 pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of grated lemon -peel, quarter of 
 a pound of prepared cocoanut, four well-beaten eggs, and a 
 cupful of milk ; mix thoroughly; butter the tins, and line 
 them with buttered paper ; pour the mixture in to the depth 
 of an inch and a half, and bake in a good oven. When 
 baked take out, spread icing over them, and return the cake 
 to the oven a moment to dry the icing. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 79 
 
 Icing. — One cupful white sugar, enough water to dissolve 
 it; set on the stove and let it hoil until it will " hair "; beat 
 the white of one egg to a stiff froth, pour the heated sugar 
 on the egg. and stir briskly until cool enough to stay on the 
 cake. The icing should not be applied until the cake is 
 nearly or quite cold. This will frost the tops of two com- 
 mon-sized cakes. 
 
 Cream Cake. — Sift half a pound of flour into three ounces 
 of creamed butter; add an even teaspoonf ul of baking powder, 
 two tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, half a 
 teaspoonf ul of grated lemon-peel, a cupful of cream that has 
 turned a little, and beaten egg. Mix the batter, pour it 
 into a buttered and papered tin, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Windsor Cake. — Beat the yolks and whites of six eggs sepa- 
 rately. Have ready the crumbs of three Vienna rolls soaked 
 in milk, and squeeze dry ; mix the crumbs with four ounces 
 of melted butter, add the beaten yolks and two ounces 
 crushed sugar, with a teaspoonf ul of grated lemon-peel; 
 work the mixture, and add gradually two ounces each of 
 raisins, almond paste, and candied orange-peel. Next add 
 the frothed whites of eggs ; butter and paper a shallow tin, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. When done sprinkle powder- 
 ed sugar over it. If preferred, chopped almonds may be 
 sprinkled over the bottom of the cake-tin before adding the 
 cake. 
 
 Ginger Cup Cake. — Mix two cupfuls of powdered sugar 
 with two cupfuls of warmed butter; add three well-beaten 
 eggs, a cupful of molasses, four heaping cupfuls of flour, a 
 tablespoonful of fresh ground ginger, and a tablespoonful of 
 dissolved saleratus ; mix thoroughly, and pour into buttered 
 moulds or patty pans. Bake in moderate oven. 
 
 Macaroons. — Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet al- 
 monds; add one pound of powdered sugar, the beaten whites 
 of six eggs, two ounces of rice flour, and one tablespoonful 
 of brandy ; mix all well together, and drop the mixture in 
 small quantities through a cornucopia on a sheet of confec- 
 
80 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 tionery paper, leaving a small distance between each, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. It is best to bake one little cake 
 at first, and if it is at all heavy add a little more beaien 
 white of egg. A strip of blanched almond in the middle of 
 each will be an improvement. They should be baked a fawn 
 color. 
 
 Neapolitan Cake. — Blanch and pound to a smooth paste 
 six ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds; add a 
 few drops of orange-flower water while pounding to pre- 
 vent oiling-; add a pinch of salt, the grated rind of one 
 lemon, four ounces of butter from which the salt has been 
 extracted, half a pound of crushed loaf-sugar, ten ounces of 
 flour; mix thoroughly, and add the well-beaten yolks of six 
 eggs after the eggs have cooled a little. Roll the paste out 
 to the thickness of about one-quarter of an inch, and stump 
 out into small forms with a cake-cutter ; lay them upon a 
 floured tin, and bake in a good oven. When they are done 
 take them out, and when cold cover the tops with a little 
 icing. Return them to the oven one moment to dry the 
 icing. 
 
 Marbled Cake. — One cupful of butter, two of sugar, three 
 of flour, four well-beaten eggs, and one cupful of milk; 
 two teaspoonfuls of baking powder; dissolve a large spoon- 
 ful of chocolate with a little cream, and mix with a cupful 
 of the batter ; cover the bottom of your pan with the batter, 
 and drop upon it in two or three places a spoonful of the 
 chocolate, forming rings, then another layer of the batter, 
 and so on until all is used. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Pound Cake without Soda. — One pound powdered sugar, 
 half pound butter, eight eggs, whites and yolks beaten sepa- 
 rately and well ; ten ounces flour, one nutmeg ; bake one 
 hour or longer. Never fails, and will keep one week. 
 
 Lady Fingers, No. 1. — Beat the whites and yolks of four eggs 
 separately ; mix with the yolks three ounces of flour and 
 three of powdered sugar ; add the beaten whites, and after- 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 81 
 
 wards a gill of rose-water ; beat all together a few minutes ; 
 put the mixture in a paper funnel, and squeeze it out into 
 the shape of fingers on paper which has had a little powdered 
 sugar dusted over it ; dust a little sugar over the fingers ; 
 let them stand five minutes, then bake to a fawn-color in a 
 moderate oven ; fasten together after they have been baked 
 with a little white of egg. Keep them in close-covered tin 
 till wanted. 
 
 Lady Fingers, No. 2. — Rub half a pound of butter into a 
 pound of flour ; add half a pound of sugar ; grate in the 
 rinds of two lemons, and squeeze in the juice of one ; then 
 add three eggs ; make into a roll the size of the middle 
 finger ; it will spread in the oven to a thin cake ; dip in 
 chocolate icing. 
 
 Crescents. — Mix three ounces of rice-flour with three 
 ounces of powdered sugar ; add three well-beaten eggs ; 
 mix all thoroughly, then spread the mixture thinly on paper 
 and bake for twenty minutes. Take it out, and stamp into 
 the shape of crescents ; cover each crescent with icing, and 
 return them to the oven for a minute or two to dry ; add to 
 a portion of the icing a little cochineal, to make some of the 
 cakes pink-colored. 
 
 Maids of Honor. — One cup each of sour and sweet milk, 
 one small cup of white pounded sugar-candy, one tablespoon- 
 ful of melted butter, the yolks of four eggs, and the juice and 
 rind of one lemon. Put both kinds of milk together in a 
 vessel, which is set in another, and let it become sufficiently 
 heated to set the curd ; then strain off the milk, rub the 
 curd through a strainer, add butter to the curd, also sugar- 
 candy, well-beaten eggs, and lemon. Line the little pans 
 with the richest of paste, and fill with the mixture ; bake 
 until firm in the centre — from ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 Charlotte Russe. — Take one-fifth of a package of gelatine 
 and half a cupful cold milk ; place in a farina boiler, and 
 stir gently over the fire until the gelatine is dissolved ; pour 
 into a dish, and place in a cool room ; take one pint of rich 
 
82 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 cream and whisk it with a tin egg-beater until it is thick ; 
 flavor the cream with either vanilla or wine, and sweeten to 
 taste ; when the gelatine is cool stiain carefully into the 
 prepared cream ; line a mould with ladyfingers ; then pour 
 the cream in carefully until it is filled ; cover with lady- 
 fingers. 
 
 Manioca Cream. — Three tahlespoonfuls of manioca, one 
 pint of milk, three eggs, vanilla and sugar to taste ; soak 
 the manioca in water till soft ; boil the milk ; while 
 boiling stir in the manioca and the yolks of the eggs, beaten 
 with the sugar ; when cooked sufficiently, pour into a dish 
 to cool ; when cold, add the vanilla ; beat the whites of the 
 eggs till stiff, sweeten and flavor them, and stir part into 
 the pudding, putting the rest on top. 
 
 Blanc-Mange. — Blanch ten bitter almonds with two ounces 
 of sweet almonds, and pound them to a paste ; add by de- 
 grees a third of a pint of cold water ; let it stand till set- 
 tled, and strain off the almond milk. Put into a pint of 
 milk five ounces of loaf-sugar, three inches of stick vanilla, 
 and pour it into an enamelled saucepan ; boil slowly till the 
 sugar is dissolved, then stir in an ounce of well-soaked isin- 
 glass ; strain into a basin ; add the milk of almonds with a 
 gill of cream ; remove the sticks of vanilla, and when cold 
 pour the mixture into individual moulds and place in ice- 
 box till wanted. 
 
 Meringues. — Take one pound of powdered sugar, and add 
 it to the beaten whites of eight eggs (slowly), until it forms 
 a stiff froth ; fill a tablespoon with the paste, and smooth it 
 with another spoon to the desired shape ; sift a little sugar 
 over a sheet of paper, drop the meringues about two inches 
 apart; dust a little sugar over them, and bake in a quick 
 oven with door left open, so they can be watched constantly ; 
 when fawn-colored, take them out ; remove them from the 
 paper with a thin knife ; scrape out of each a little of the 
 soft part. They may be neatly arranged around a dish of 
 whipped cream, or filled with ice-cream. If whipped cream 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 83 
 
 is used, they would be improved by the addition of a little 
 bright jelly inside each meringue. 
 
 Macaroon Basket. — This is a pretty and unconventional 
 way of serving up macaroons with whipped cream, etc. 
 Make a cement of sugar boiled to crackling, into which dip 
 the edges of macaroons. Line a two-quart (deep) cake- 
 pan with them, bottom and sides, taking care that the edges 
 of macaroons touch each other firmly ; also have a care not 
 to pack them so tightly in the pan as to prevent easy re- 
 moval. Set aside to dry, and when wanted lill with the de- 
 sired cream, and serve on a glass dish. 
 
 Italian Cream. — Put one ounce of soaked isinglass, six 
 ounces of loaf-sugar, half a stick of vanilla, and one pint of 
 milk into a saucepan ; boil slowly, and stir all the time 
 until the isinglass is dissolved ; strain the mixture, and 
 when a little cool mix it with a pint of thick cream. Beat 
 thoroughly until it thickens. Pour into a large or individual 
 moulds, and put in ice-box until wanted. 
 
 Whipped Coffee Cream. — Sweeten one pint of rich cream 
 rather liberally; roast two ounces of coffee beans; when they 
 are lightly browned throw them into the cream at once and 
 let the dish stand one hour before using ; strain and whip 
 the cream to a firm froth. A teaspoonful of powdered gum- 
 arabic, dissolved in a little orange-flower water, may be added 
 to give the cream more firmness, if desired. 
 
 Whipped Cream with Liqueurs. — Proceed as with coffee 
 cream, flavoring the cream before whipping with Curacoa, Ma- 
 raschino, or any other cordial that may be desired. Other 
 creams can be made on the same principle with chocolate ex- 
 tracts or highly-flavored wines. 
 
 Bavarian Cream. — Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth 
 and set in a colander one minute, to allow unwhipped portion 
 to drip away ; boil one pint of milk with a stick of vanilla 
 and half a cupful of sugar until flavor is extracted ; then 
 take out stick of vanilla, and remove sauce-pan from fire ; 
 
84 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 - 
 
 add half a box of Cox's gelatine that has been soaked in 
 water; add the well-beaten whites of four eggs, and when the 
 mixture has become quite cold add the whipped cream gradu- 
 ally until it is well mixed ; put into individual moulds a 
 teaspoonful of some bright jelly or jam, then pour in the 
 mixture and place in ice-box until wanted. This cream may 
 be flavored in any way desired. 
 
 Ice-Cream. — Use only the best materials for making and 
 flavoring. Avoid using milk thickened with arrow-root, corn- 
 starch, or any farinaceous substance. Pure cream, ripe natu- 
 ral fruits, or the extracts of same, and sugar of the purest 
 quality, combine to make a perfect ice-cream. In the first 
 place secure a good ice-cream freezer. Of these several are 
 made. Without recommending any particular make, we 
 would suggest that one be secured working with a crank and 
 revolving dashers. Next secure an ice-tub, not less than 
 eight inches greater in diameter than the freezer. See that 
 it has a hole in the side near the bottom, with a plug, which 
 can be drawn at pleasure, to let off water accumulated from 
 melting ice. Get a spatula of hard wood — not metal — with 
 a blade about twelve inches long and four or five inches wide, 
 and oval-shaped at end. This is used to scrape off cream 
 which may adhere to the sides of freezer in process of freez- 
 ing, also for working flavorings and fruits into cream. A 
 smaller spade is also necessary for mixing salt and ice together 
 and for depositing this mixture in the intervening space be- 
 tween can and ice- tub. Ice must be pounded fine in a coarse, 
 strong bag. To freeze the cream, assuming it to be already 
 flavored, first pound up ice and mix with it a quantity of coarse 
 salt, in the proportion of one-third the quantity of salt to 
 amount of ice used. Put freezing-can in centre of tub, taking 
 care that lid is securely fastened down, and pile the mixed ice 
 and salt around it on inside of tub to within three inches of 
 top. First turn crank slowly, and as cream hardens increase the 
 speed until mixture is thoroughly congealed, and revolving 
 dashers are "frozen in." Eemove the lid, take out dashers, 
 cut away the cream which has adhered to the sides, and pro- 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 85 
 
 ceed to work the mixture with the spatula until it is smooth 
 and soft to the tongue. Reinsert the dashers, cover can 
 again, and work crank until entire contents are hard and 
 well set. It is now ready to be served. 
 
 Vanilla Cream. — Four quarts of very rich cream, contain- 
 ing no milk ; split two good-sized vanilla beans and cut up 
 into small pieces ; two pounds of powdered sugar and four 
 fresh eggs ; beat the eggs thoroughly in a porcelain-lined 
 dish; add the sugar, and stir both well together; add the 
 cream and throw in vanilla; place on fire, stirring con- 
 stantly until boiling commences, but do not retain it there 
 an instant after that time; strain through a hair sieve, and 
 when cool pour it into the freezer and freeze. 
 
 Lemon Ice-Cream. — Grate off the yellow rind of two large 
 fresh lemons, with half a pound of loaf sugar, using care not 
 to grate a particle of the white, leathery pith beneath ; 
 crush the sugar to a powder, strain over it the juice of one 
 lemon ; add a pint of rich cream ; stir until sugar is dissolved 
 and freeze. 
 
 Peach Ice Cream. — Pound to a pulp twelve whole canned 
 peaches ; strain 'through a hair sieve and add six ounces of 
 loaf-sugar which has been setting on fire to dissolve a few 
 minutes ; add one pint and a half of cream and a few drops 
 of cochineal to give it a nice peach-color ; freeze. Fruit 
 creams of any kind can be made in same manner. 
 
 Water Ices. — Lemon Ice : Rub the rinds of six lemons upon 
 twelve square lumps of sugar ; squeeze over them the strained 
 juice, half a pint of water, and a pint of syrup made by boil- 
 ing three-quarters of a pound of sugar in nearly a pint of 
 water ; put in an earthen crock for one hour and a half, 
 then mix, strain, and freeze. The ice will be improved by 
 adding the whites of three eggs beaten to a froth with six 
 ounces of powdered sugar. Serve in glasses. 
 
 Apricot Ice : Skin, divide, and stone six large ripe ap- 
 ricots ; blanch, pound, and add the kernels to the fruit, 
 with the juice of two lemons, half a pint of water and two 
 
86 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 ounces of clarified sugar ; put in an earthen crock for one 
 hour and a half, then strain and mix the whites of three 
 eggs beaten to a firm froth with four ounces of powdered 
 sugar ; add this to the prepared water, mix thoroughly, and 
 freeze. 
 
 Orange Basket.— Eemove the fruit from interior of the 
 orange carefully by making a small incision on one side of 
 the orange, then cut the skin into shape of a basket, leaving 
 about one half an inch of the stalk end for a handle. Fill 
 the basket with ices, ice creams, frozen punches, whipped 
 creams, jellies, etc. They look very pretty on a table. The 
 fruit portion of orange can be utilized by removing the pith 
 and seeds and sending to table sweetened with sugar, or used 
 to make orange ice cream or ices. 
 
 Good Coffee. — The following remarks addressed to the 
 trade by Messrs. H. K. & F. B. Thurber & Co. are so true 
 and brief, yet so comprehensive, that I introduce them here : 
 
 " Nothing is more generally desired or appreciated, no- 
 thing harder to find, than a uniformly good cup of coffee. Its 
 production is generally considered an easy matter, but it in- 
 volves the observance of a considerable number of conditions 
 by a considerable number of persons, and a volume might be 
 written about these and still leave much to be said. We will, 
 however, briefly state the most important requisites. 
 
 "The wholesale dealer must exercise care and judgment 
 in his selections, as there is almost as much difference in the 
 flavor of coffee as there is of tea ; this is especially true of 
 Mocha, Java, Maracaibo, and other fancy coffees, of which 
 frequently the brightest and handsomest looking lots are 
 greatly lacking in the flavor and aroma which constitute the 
 chief value of coffee, and which can be ascertained only by 
 testing carefully each invoice purchased. It should be 
 roasted by a professional roaster, as this is a very important 
 part of the programme, and requires skill, experience, and 
 constant practice. Expert roasters are usually experienced 
 men and command high salaries. A bad coffee-roaster is 
 dear at any price, as the coffee may be ruined or its value 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 87 
 
 greatly injured by an error in judgment or an instant's inat- 
 tention. Owing to these circumstances, in addition to the 
 fact that in order to do good work it is necessary to roast a 
 considerable quantity at a time, none of the small hand- 
 machines produce uniformly good results, and they are only 
 to be tolerated where distance makes it impossible for the re- 
 tail merchant to obtain regular and (when not in air-tight 
 packages) frequent supplies of the roasted article. How 
 much it should be roasted is also an important part of the 
 question; for making ''black" or "French" coffee, it 
 should be roasted higher than usual (the French also often 
 add a little chiccory), and some sections are accustomed to a 
 higher roast than others, but as a whole the customary New 
 York standard will best suit the average American palate. 
 
 " Retail dealers should buy their roasted coffee of a reli- 
 able house that has a reputation to sustain, and that cannot 
 be induced to cut down prices below what they can afford to 
 furnish an article that will do them credit ; do not buy much 
 at a time (unless in air-tight packages), a week or ten days' 
 supply is enough, and if you are situated so you can buy it 
 twice a week so much the better. Keep it in a dry place, 
 and, if possible, in a tin can which shuts tightly, never in a 
 pine box or bin, for the smell of the wood is quickly absorbed 
 by the coffee. Get your customers in the habit of buying it 
 in the berry, or, if they have no mill at home and want you 
 to grind it for them (every grocer should have a mill), grind 
 it pretty fine, so that when used the strength is readily ex- 
 tracted, but do not sell them much at a time, as it is a neces- 
 sity to have coffee freshly ground. 
 
 "Consumers should adopt the above suggestions to retail 
 dealers — buy of a reliable dealer who will not represent an in- 
 ferior article as 'Java'; buy in small quantities, and buy 
 often ; keep it dry and in a tightly-closed tin can, or in a 
 glass or earthen jar. Have a small ' hand coffee-mill,' and 
 grind only when ready to use it ; and if during rainy weath- 
 er the kernels become damp and tough, warm them up in a 
 clean pot or skillet, but do not scorch them ; this drives off 
 the moisture, restores the flavor, and makes it grind better. 
 
88 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 The grinding is an important feature ; if ground too coarse, 
 you lose much of the strength and aroma of the coffee ; if too 
 tine, it is hard to make it clear, but of the two the latter is 
 least objectionable ; both the strength and flavor of the coffee, 
 however, is a necessity, and if a little of the finely-powdered 
 coffee flows out with the liquid extract, it is clean and will 
 hurt nobody. It is better, however, to grind it just right, 
 which is so that the largest pieces will be no larger than pin- 
 heads. 
 
 " We now come to the important part of making coffee. 
 For this there are many receipts and formulas, including a 
 large number of new and so-called improved coffee pots, but 
 we l>ave never seen any of the new methods which in the long- 
 run gave as satisfactory results as the following old-fashioned 
 receipt : 
 
 " Grind moderately fine a large cup of coffee ; break into it 
 one egg with shell ; mix well, adding just enough cold water 
 to thoroughly wet the grounds ; upon this pour one pint of 
 boiling water; let it boil slowly for ten to fifteen minutes, 
 and then stand three minutes to settle ; pour through a fine 
 wire sieve into coffee-pot, which should be first ringed with 
 hot water ; this will make enough for four persons. Coffee 
 should he served as soon as made. At table first rinse the cup 
 with hot water, put in the sugar, then fill half full of hot 
 milk, add your coffee, and you have a delicious beverage that 
 will be a revelation to many poor mortals who have an indis- 
 tinct remembrance of and an intense longing for an ideal cup 
 of coffee. If you have cream, so much the better; and in 
 that case boiling water can be added either in the pot or cup 
 to make up for the space occupied by the milk, as above ; or 
 condensed milk will be found a good substitute for cream. 
 
 "General remarks. — We have thus briefly indicated the points 
 necessary to be observed in obtaining uniformly good coffee, 
 whether made from Eio, or Java, and other mild-flavored 
 coffees. In the Eastern and Middle States Mocha, Java, 
 Maracaibo, Ceylon, etc., are most highly esteemed and gen- 
 erally used ; but at the West and in the South more Eio coffee 
 is consumed. The coffee par excelltnce, however, is a mixture 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 89 
 
 of Mocha and Java roasted together, and thus thoroughly 
 blended. Mocha alone is too rough and acrid to suit many- 
 palates, but blended as above it is certainly delicious. In all 
 varieties, however, there is a considerable range as to quality 
 and flavor, and, as before stated, the best guide for the con- 
 sumer is to buy of a reliable dealer, and throw upon his 
 shoulders the responsibility of furnishing a satisfactory ar- 
 ticle. 
 
 "Hotels and restaurants that desire good coffee should 
 make it in small quantities and more frequently. It is im- 
 possible for coffee to be good when it is kept simmering for 
 hours after it is made." 
 
 "A Cup of Coffee."— The author of " Salad for the Solitary," 
 efo., has so well covered all the facts concerning the origin 
 and history of this domestic beverage that little remains to 
 be said ; but as the establishment of the first coffee-house in 
 London is connected with a curious anecdote, perhaps my 
 readers will like to hear it. 
 
 Mr. D. Edwards, a Turkish merchant, on his return from 
 Smyrna to London, brought with him a Greek of Ragusa, 
 named Pasquet Rossee, who used to prepare coffee every 
 morning for his master. Edwards's neighbors, beginning to 
 appreciate the good qualities of this beverage, became so 
 numerous as visitors at breakfast-time that in order to get 
 rid of them he ordered Rossee to open a coffee-house, which 
 the latter did in St. Michael's Alley, Oornhill. This was the 
 first coffee-house in the city. 
 
 Now, taking its popularity as a basis, let us laugh at the 
 doctors who maintain the theory that hot coffee irritates the 
 stomach and injures the nerves. Let us tell them that Vol- 
 taire, Fontenelle, and Fourcroy, who were great coffee-drink- 
 ers, lived to a good old age. Let us laugh, too, at Madame 
 Sevigne, who predicted that coffee and Racine would be for- 
 gotten together. — Exchange. 
 
90 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 Potatoes. — To boil a potato properly is very naturally sup- 
 posed to be a very easy matter, but how seldom do we meet 
 with one boiled to a proper turn ? In 1873, while out hunting 
 in northwestern Minnesota, I stopped at an old log-cabin for 
 dinner. The proprietor of the hostelry was an old down- 
 East Yankee, who, suffering from a lung complaint, had taken 
 his family out West, and had pre-empted one hundred and 
 sixty acres, there to remain the rest of his days. I had the 
 good fortune of having a well-filled pocket-pistol of brandy 
 with me (to be used for medicinal purposes only), which I 
 soon converted into milk-punch while his wife was preparing 
 dinner. He was delighted with it, and told me that it was 
 the first drop of spirits he had seen or tasted for several 
 years (and I believed him, from the manner in which that 
 punch disappeared). This set him to telling me what a 
 splendid cook his wife was, and that she could beat "all 
 tarnation a' biling taters. " I left him immediately and offered 
 my services to madam as second cook, my object being to 
 learn her trick of boiling potatoes. At last dinner was ready, 
 the cloth spread, and while the judge (as he was called) set 
 the table I looked for a garden (?) to get a salad. Not finding 
 the cultivated article, I had to resort to the field, and obtain- 
 ed a few edible weeds, washed and dried them, and prepared 
 them for dinner. 
 
 Our Bill of Fare. 
 
 Vegetable Soup. 
 
 Smoked Shad with drawn Butter. 
 
 Roast Rump of Salted Beef. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Parsnip Fritters. 
 
 Weed Salad. 
 
 Home-made Cheese. Cold Johnny-cake. 
 
 Acorn Coffee. 
 
 My long tramp over the prairie hunting prairie-chickens 
 may possibly have had something to do with my ferocious 
 appetite, but I do not remember an occasion when I enjoyed 
 myself so mucli at table or ate so heartily. The dinner was 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 91 
 
 a success, and the potatoes surpassed all expectations. I am 
 not much of a potato-eater, but on this occasion I surprised 
 myself by asking for a potato the third time. 
 
 Her receipt for boiling potatoes was very simple. She 
 washed them well and peeled off a strip about a quarter of an 
 inch wide lengthwise round each potato, placed them in an 
 old iron pot, covered them with fresh rain-water (cold), and 
 added a teaspoonful of salt. She allowed them to boil fifteen 
 minutes, and then poured out a quart of the hot water and 
 added a quart dipperful of cold water. When the edge of 
 the peel began to curl up, she pronounced them done, and 
 removed them from the pot, covered the bottom of a baking- 
 tin with them, placed them in the oven with a towel over 
 them for fifteen minutes, with the oven-door open. They were 
 splendid. 
 
 The roast rump of salt beef was a new dish to me, but it 
 was very good. It had stood in water twenty-four hours to 
 extract the salt from it. It was a little dry and a trifle too 
 well done. 
 
 My salad was composed of a few dandelions that had grown 
 in a shady spot, a few inch dock-leaves, the tip-ends of the 
 milk- weed, and a few wild chives, with bacon dressing; but 
 I had no vinegar. As a substitute I gathered a handful of 
 sheep sorrel, chopped it up fine, and sprinkled it over the 
 salad. 
 
 On my departure the judge addressed me as Mr. Weed- 
 eater, and requested me to make his cabin my home when- 
 ever I was in Minnesota. 
 
 Cabbage. — Never buy overgrown cabbages. They may 
 appear very pleasing to the eye, but they are apt to be too 
 coarse and too full of fibres to make a palatable dish. Do 
 not trim off the outer leaves until the day they are wanted. 
 It is a good plan to purchase a few dozen heads of cabbage 
 with the stalks on, and hang them up in the cellar, heads 
 down ; then cut them down when wanted. Cut the heads 
 into quarters ; trim off all wilted leaves ; cover them with cold 
 water ; add a handful of salt, and let them stand an hour 
 
92 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 before boiling. This process thoroughly cleanses them from 
 insects, etc., that may be concealed between the leaves. When 
 ready to boil cover "them with boiling water ; add a pea of 
 soda, a little salt, and boil till tender. The old-fashioned 
 way of boiling cabbage and other vegetables for a boiled dinner 
 with the joint is not to be recommended for families outside 
 of the farm, as it makes althogether too hearty a meal for 
 those taking but little exercise. 
 
 Boiled Asparagus. — If the cut end of asparagus is brown and 
 dry and the heads bent on one side, the asparagus is stale. 
 It may be kept a day or two with the stalks in cold water, 
 but it is much better fresh. Scrape off the white skin from 
 the lower end, and cut the stalks of equal length ; let them 
 lie in cold water until it is time to cook them ; tie the 
 asparagus in small bundles, put them into a pot with plenty 
 of water, and a handful of salt. When the asparagus is 
 sufficiently cooked serve it on toast with drawn butter or 
 with cream dressing, sauce vinaigrette, etc. 
 
 Boiled Artichokes. — Soak the artichokes and wash them in 
 several waters ; cut the stalks even ; trim away the lower 
 leaves, and the ends of the others ; boil in salted water with 
 the tops downwards, and let them remain until the leaves can 
 be easily drawn out. Before serving remove the choke and 
 send to table with melted butter. 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes. — Peel the artichokes and throw 
 each root into cold water and vinegar immediately, to preserve 
 the color. Put them into boiling water, with a little salt, 
 until sufficiently tender for a fork to pass through them 
 easily ; then pile them on a dish, and serve as hot as possible 
 with melted butter or white sauce poured over. Soyer shaped 
 them like a pear, then stewed them gently in three pints of 
 water with two or three onions thinly sliced, one ounce of 
 salt, and one ounce of butter. He then placed a border of 
 mashed potatoes round a dish, stuck the artichokes in it points 
 upwards, poured over them either white sauce or melted 
 butter, and put a fine Brussels sprout between each. It made 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 93 
 
 a pretty, inviting dish. Time to boil, about twenty minutes. 
 They should be tried with a fork frequently after a quarter 
 of an hour, as they will become black and tasteless if allowed 
 to remain on the lire longer than necessary. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts. — Pick, trim, and wash a number of 
 sprouts ; put them into plenty of fast- boiling water. The 
 sudden immersion of the vegetables will check the boiling 
 for some little time, but they must be brought to a boil as 
 quickly as possible, that they may not lose their green color. 
 Add a tablespoonful of salt and a pea of soda, and boil 
 very fast for fifteen minutes. Lose no time in draining 
 them when sufficiently done ; and serve plain, or with a little 
 white sauce over the top. 
 
 Green Peas. — To have green peas in perfection, care should 
 be taken to obtain them young, freshly-gathered, and freshly- 
 shelled. The condition of the peas may be known from the 
 appearance of the shells. When the peas are young the 
 shells are green, when newly-gathered they are crisp, when 
 old they look yellow, and when plump the peas are fine and 
 large. If peas are shelled some hours before they are cooked 
 they lose greatly in flavor. 
 
 Bottled Green Peas. — Shell the peas ; put them into dry, 
 wide-mouthed bottles, and shake them together so that they 
 may lie in as little space as possible ; cork the bottles closely, 
 and seal the corks ; bury the bottles in dry earth in the 
 cellar, and take them up as they are wanted. They will keep 
 three or four months. 
 
 Boiled Turnips. — Turnips should only be served whole when 
 they are very young, and then they should be covered with 
 white sauce. When they have reached any size they should 
 be mashed. Pare the turnips, and wash them ; if very young 
 a little of the green top may be left on ; if very large they 
 should be divided into halves or even quarters ; throw them 
 into slightly-salted water, and let them boil gently till tender ; 
 drain and serve them. 
 
94 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Carrots. — This vegetable is almost invariably sent to table 
 with boiled beef. When the carrots are young they should 
 be washed and brushed, not scraped, before cooking — and 
 old carrots also are better prepared in this way — then rubbed 
 with a clean coarse cloth after boiling. Young carrots require 
 an hour for cooking, and fully-grown ones from one hour and 
 a half to two hours. The red is the best part. In order to 
 ascertain if the root is sufficiently cooked, stick a fork into 
 it. When they feel soft they are ready for serving. 
 
 Boiled Celery. — Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, 
 with a little salt in it. Wash the celery carefully ; cut off 
 the outer leaves, make the stalks even, and lay them in small 
 bunches ; throw these into the water, and let them boil 
 gently until tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered. When 
 done, drain, and place them on a piece of toast which has 
 been dipped in the liquid ; pour over them a little good 
 melted butter, and serve. 
 
 Boiled Spinach. — Take two pailfuls of spinach, young and 
 freshly-gathered. Pick away the stalks, wash the leaves in 
 several waters, lift them out with the hands that the sand 
 or grit may remain at the bottom, and drain them on a sieve. 
 Put them into a saucepan with as much boiling water slightly 
 salted as will keep them from burning, and let them boil 
 until tender. Take the spinach up, drain it, and press it 
 well ; chop it small, and put it into a clean saucepan with a 
 little pepper and salt and a slice of fresh butter; stir it well 
 for five minutes. Serve with the yolk of hard-boiled egg. 
 
 Onion. — This vegetable may be regarded either as a condi- 
 ment or as an article of real nourishment. By boiling it is 
 deprived of much of its pungent volatile oil, and becomes 
 agreeable, mild, and nutritious. There is no vegetable about 
 which there is so much diversity of opinion as there is about 
 the onion, some persons liking a little of it in every dish, 
 and others objecting to it entirely. Generally speaking, how- 
 ever, a slight flavoring of onion is an improvement to the 
 majority of made dishes, but it should not be too strong. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 95 
 
 The smell which arises from the esculent during cooking and 
 the unpleasant odor it imparts to the breath of those who 
 partake of it are the principal objections which are urged 
 against it. The latter may be partially remedied by eating 
 a little raw parsley before and after it. When onions are 
 used for stuffing, the unpleasant properties belonging to them 
 would be considerably lessened if a lemon, freed from the 
 outer rind but covered as thickly as possible with the white 
 skin, were put in the midst of them, and thrown away when 
 the dish is ready for the table. Onions may be rendered much 
 milder if two or three waters are used in boiling them. 
 Spanish onions are not so strong as the English, and are 
 generally considered superior in flavor. The largest are 
 the best. 
 
 Boiled Beets. — Wash, but do not cut them, as it would de- 
 stroy their sweetness ; put them on to boil in a sufficiency 
 of water, and let them boil from two to three hours, or until 
 they are perfectly tender ; then take them up, peel and 
 slice them, and pour vinegar or melted butter over them. 
 The root is excellent as a salad, and as a garnish for other 
 salads it is desirable on account of the brightness of its color. 
 
 Boiled Corn. — Strip the ears, pick off the silk, and put them 
 in a pot of water with a little salt ; boil half an hour. 
 When done, cut off the corn from the cob and season it 
 with butter, pepper, and more salt if necessary, or serve on 
 the ear. 
 
 Oyster-Plant. — Scrape the roots lightly ; either cut them 
 into three-inch lengths, or leave them whole, and throw them 
 into water with a little lemon till wanted ; put them into 
 boiling salt and water, and keep them boiling quickly till 
 tender ; drain them, arrange on toast upon a hot dish, and 
 pour over them good melted butter, white sauce, or sauce 
 maitre d'hotel. 
 
 Boiled Cauliflower. — Cut the stalk close to the bottom, and 
 pare away the tops of the leaves, leaving a circle of shortened 
 leafstalks all round. Put the cauliflower head downwards 
 
96 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 into a little vinegar and water for a quarter of an hour. 
 Put it into a pan of boiling water, with a tablespoon ful of 
 salt in it. Some persons prefer milk and water. Remove 
 the scum carefully as it rises or the cauliflower will be dis- 
 colored. Boil till tender. This may be ascertained by taking 
 a little piece of the stalk between the finger and thumb, and 
 if it yields easily to pressure it is ready. Drain, and serve. 
 Put a lump of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan with 
 a cupful of cold water ; add gradually a teaspoonful of flour, 
 mix smoothly, boil, and strain over the vegetable. 
 
 Boiled Horse Radish. — Cut each root into pieces two inches 
 in length, and each piece into quarters ; boil in water con- 
 taining a little salt and one tablespoonf ul of vinegar. When 
 tender drain, place the strips on a napkin, and send to table 
 with drawn butter. This vegetable is seldom used except as 
 a condiment or sauce ingredient. Although ignored in any 
 other form, it is one of the most nutritious and healthful of 
 all vegetables. It makes an excellent dish when used in equal 
 portions with any vegetables handled in making fritters. 
 
 Stewed Cucumber. — Peel and quarter two cucumbers length- 
 wise ; put them in a saucepan, add one teaspoonful of salt and 
 one dozen whole peppers. When tender take them out ; 
 place them on toast, the edges of which have been dipped in 
 water used in stewing. Pour drawn butter over them, well 
 "easoned with cayenne pepper, and serve. 
 
 Stewed Dandelion. — The first mention of this dish will per- 
 haps inspire most American people with aversion, but I can 
 honestly advise them to try it. It is an inexpensive dish, 
 and easily obtained ; for fresh growths after showery weather 
 may be had throughout the year. Gather a quantity of fresh 
 dandelion ; pick off all the withered tips and hard parts ; 
 shred them into strips, and wash them free from grit ; put 
 the dandelion into a stewpan with a strip of bacon, and add 
 one tablespoonful of vinegar ; cover it with a small quantity 
 of boiling water, and stew until tender. Mash with a wooden 
 spoon ; stir in a lump of butter; flavor with pepper and salt, 
 
Valuable Cooking .Receipts. 97 
 
 and serve like spinach. The dish may be garnished in a 
 variety of ways, either with hard-boiled eggs, sippets of fried 
 bread, or slices of boiled carrot cut into shapes. It is usually 
 served with white meats, as veal, sweet-breads, etc., but it is 
 excellent as a garnish for poached egg?. 
 
 The following weeds are all good greens if properly treated: 
 the milk-weed, the different docks, fat hen, ox-tongue, 
 jack-by-rhe-hedge, sea-holly (a substitute. for asparagus), sea 
 beet, shepherd's purse, sow thistle, hawk-weed, stinging 
 nettle, willow herb, pile-wort, Solomon's seal, lamb's quarter, 
 and a number of other weeds common to this country, and 
 known only to a few. Once known they would be much 
 sought after. 
 
 TABLE ETIQUETTE. 
 
 The following article from Harper's Bazaar is so appro- 
 priate under this head that we take the liberty of inserting it 
 entire : 
 
 " Table Etiquette. — There are a few points of table eti- 
 quette not directly connected with the giving and receiving of 
 dinners and teas, but which are of the first importance, as they 
 concern individual behavior. We would be inclined to think 
 every one acquainted with them, and allusion to them a mat- 
 ter of supererogation on our part, if it were not that we see 
 them so frequently violated. Those of our reades who are, 
 or who have always been, familiar with them will perhaps 
 pardon our speaking of them for the sake of those who are 
 not. 
 
 " We do not expect to see these gaucheries in the best society; 
 but there are many people perfectly well fitted for the best 
 society but for ignorance concerning these things, which, al- 
 though trifles in themselves, are of such infinite importance 
 on the whole. For instance, where all the requirements are 
 not fully known, if a general cessation of conversation should 
 suddenly supervene upon the serving of the soup, would there 
 be silence in the place ? Not at all ; the gap would be filled 
 
98 Valuable Cooking Receipts, 
 
 with a continuous bubbling sound from the mouth of some 
 one or other unlucky wight whose mother never taught him 
 to take soup properly, and who is possibly disturbing and 
 disgusting all those that do better, and who know how easily 
 the trouble might be avoided. Soup is to be taken from the 
 side of the spoon, not from the tip, and it is not to be sucked 
 in, but the spoon being slightly tilted, it is rather poured 
 into the mouth than otherwise, the slightest silent inhala- 
 tion being sufficient for the rest. 
 
 "Another generally neglected obligation is that of spreading 
 butter on one's bread as it lies in one's plate, or but slightly 
 lifted at one end from the plate ; it is very frequently but- 
 tered in the air, bitten in gouges, and still held in the face 
 and eyes of the table with the marks of the teeth on it. This 
 is certainly not altogether pleasant, and it is better to cut it 
 a bit at a time, after buttering it, and put piece by piece in 
 the mouth with one's finger and thumb. 
 
 " Let us mention a few ti lings concerning the eating of which 
 there is sometimes doubt. A cream-cake, and anything of 
 similar nature, should be eaten with knife and fork — never 
 bitten. Asparagus — which should always be served on bread 
 or toast, so as to absorb superfluous moisture — may be taken 
 from the finger and thumb ; if it is fit to be set before you, 
 the whole of it may be eaten. Peas and beans, as we all 
 know, require the fork only. Potatoes, if mashed, should 
 be eaten with the fork. Green corn should be eaten from 
 the cob ; but it must be held with a single hand, and not 
 after the fashion of the alderman's wife at the lord mayor's 
 dinner. French artichokes are to be eaten with the fingers, 
 slightly pulled apart at the top and one of the leaves pulled 
 out with finger and thumb ; the fleshy end of this leaf is then 
 dipped in the salad dressing served with it, and only that 
 atom of a paler color at the bottom of the leaf is taken as it 
 peels off between the lips, when the dry portion is to be laid 
 back in the plate. It is always served as a separate course 
 by itself ; a pretty hand looks very pretty indeed when fin- 
 gering a French artichoke. Celery, cresses, radishes, and all 
 that sort of thing are, of course, to be eaten from the fingers; 
 
Valuable Cooking Jteceijjts. 99 
 
 the salt should be laid upon one's plate, not upon the cloth. 
 Fish is to be eaten with the fork, without the assistance of 
 the knife ; a bit of bread in the left hand sometimes helps 
 one to master a refractory morsel. 
 
 "It is best to be very moderate in the beginning of a dinner, 
 as one does not know what is to follow, and all the rest may 
 be spoiled for one by an opposite course. We remember the 
 case of a lady in Mexico, who, dining with the governor of 
 the province, was served for the first course with a hash. 
 She was somewhat surprised ; but it was a very good hash, 
 and she really made her dinner upon it. But the next course 
 was also hash — there were seventeen courses of hash before 
 the main dinner, of every delicious delicacy under the sun, 
 made its appearance ! Of course, a tiny morsel of each hash, 
 for the sake of the flavoring, was all she should have taken ; 
 as it was, she sat afterwards like Tantalus. 
 
 " Berries, of course, are to be eaten with a spoon. In Eng- 
 land they are served with their hulls on, and three or four 
 are considered an ample quantity. But, then, in England 
 they are many times the size of ours ; there they take the 
 big berry by the stem, dip it into powdered sugar, and eat it 
 as we do the turnip-radish. It is not proper to drink with a 
 spoon in the cup, nor should one, by the way, ever quite 
 drain cup or glass. Spoons are sometimes used with pud- 
 dings, but forks are the better style. A spoon should never 
 be turned over in the mouth. Ladies have frequently an 
 affected way of holding the knife half-way down its length, 
 as if it were too big for their little hands, but this is as awk- 
 ward a way as it is weak ; the knife should be grasped freely 
 by the handle only, the forefinger being the only one to touch 
 the blade, and that only along the back of the blade at its 
 root, and no further down. In sending one's plate to be 
 helped a second time, one should retain one's knife and fork, 
 for the convenience of waiter and carver. At the conclusion 
 of a course where they have been used, knife and fork should 
 be laid side by side on the plate — never crossed ; the old cus- 
 tom of crossing them was in obedience to an ancient religi- 
 ous formula. The servant should offer everything at the 
 
100 Valuable Cooking ^Receipts. 
 
 left of the guest, that the guest nuiy be at liberty to use the 
 right hand. If one has been given a napkin ring, it is ne- 
 cessary to fold one's napkin and use the ring ; otherwise the 
 napkin should be left unfolded. One's teeth are not to be 
 picked at table; but if it is impossible to hinder it, it should 
 be done behind the napkin. One may pick a bone at the ta- 
 ble, but, as with corn, only one hand is allowed to touch it ; 
 yet one can usually get enough from it with knife and fork, 
 which is certainly the more elegant way of doing; and to 
 take her teeth to it gives a lady the look of caring a little too 
 much for the pleasures of the table ; one is, however, on no 
 account to suck one's fingers after it. 
 
 " Wherever there is any doubt as to the best way to do a 
 thing, it is wise to follow that which is the most rational, and 
 that will almost invariably be found to be the proper eti- 
 quette. There is a reason for everything in polite usage ; thus, 
 the reason why one does not blow a thing to cool it is not 
 only that it is an inelegant and vulgar action intrinsically, 
 but because it may be offensive to others — cannot help being 
 so, indeed ; and it, moreover, implies haste, which, whether 
 resulting from greediness or from a desire to get away, is 
 equally rude and objectionable. Everything else may be as 
 easily traced to its origin in the fit and becoming. 
 
 " If, to conclude, one seats one's self properly at table, 
 and takes reason into account, one will do tolerably well. 
 One must not pull one's chair too closely to the table, for the 
 natural result of that is the inability to use one's knife and 
 fork without inconveniencing one's neighbors; the elbows 
 are to be held well in and close to one's side, which cannot 
 be done if the chair is too near the board. One must not lie 
 or lean along the table, nor rest one's arms u])on it. Nor is 
 one to touch any of the dishes ; if a member of the family, 
 one can exercise all the duties of hospitality through servants, 
 and wherever there are servants, neither family nor guests 
 are to pass or help from any dish." 
 
 I would here disclaim against the disgusting habit of 
 mouth-rinsing so prevalent at many dinner-parties. The 
 bad taste of such a procedure seems to me so evident that 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 101 
 
 everybody of refinement would avoid it. Yet I have repeat- 
 edly seen it resorted to in fashionable society. 
 
 BANQUET SERVICE. 
 
 The correct or proper manner of taking care of a number 
 of guests that have assembled before the hour of dinner or 
 supper has always been a puzzling problem to the novice in 
 this line of business ; but a first-class caterer will always be 
 willing to help the host oat of the dilemma, provided the 
 host does not pretend to know more about the business than 
 the caterer. It is a very good plan to have a colored servant 
 at the door, another to receive the coat, hat, and cane, and 
 give a paper check therefor, and still another to usher the 
 guests to the reception-room, where they will find the host 
 holding court over a bowl of lemonade or a light punch. The 
 guests are eventually summoned to the banquet-room, but just 
 before they enter it is " in good form " to serve them with a 
 glass of plain Vermouth, or a Vermouth cocktail, as an ap- 
 petizer. White servants are particularly to be recommend- 
 ed for the dining-room. 
 
 They then sit down to a repast, served in the following 
 order (assuming of course that the table is set for a ban- 
 quet) : 
 
 No less than three, or more than five, oysters on the plate 
 of each guest (with celery on table if in season). The oyster 
 plates and forks are removed. Next serve the soups, with 
 a grated rusk, plain roll, or French bread. Hors-d'oeuvres, 
 or whets, are now in order. Next serve the boiled releve ; 
 then the heavy entree ; after which serve the light entree. 
 Your guests will now expect the punch Roumaine, after 
 which serve a good Russian cigarette (if gentlemen only). 
 Then the roast joint ; after which serve the game. Then 
 the light salad, with a plain French dressing. Next the 
 sweet entremet. The table should now be cleared ; cheese 
 and hard cracker offered ; then the ices, with cake, etc., 
 confectionery, dessert, coffee, liquors and cigars. The ap- 
 
102 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 propriate vegetables to be passed round with each joint or 
 dish where they naturally belong. 
 
 The proper wines for above banquet are : with oysters, 
 white Burgundies, Sauternes, and, if no other wine is at 
 hand, a bottle of still Moselle may be served ; with the soup, 
 Sherry and Madeira ; with the releves of fish, Hock wines ; 
 with the boiled joints, light Bordeaux: (claret) and Burgun- 
 dy wines ; with the entrees, champagnes (though cham- 
 pagne may be served from the beginning to the end of din- 
 ner if asked for), after the last entree serve the punch Rou- 
 maine, cardinal, etc., with cigarette if desired. A Rhenish 
 wine may be on table to prepare the palate for the roast, 
 and to counteract the sweetness of the punch. With the 
 roasts and game heavy Burgundy and Bordeaux. At many 
 English banquets port wine is sprinkled over the lettuce, 
 and cheese and crackers are served at the same time, but it is 
 not a modern custom. With the sweets, sherry and Ma- 
 deira. A spoonful of brandy added to the coffee will aid 
 digestion. 
 
 A pony of half green Chartreuse and S. 0. P. brandy is 
 excellent at the end of a dinner. 
 
 Serve the punch Roumaine after the last entree, and not 
 after the roast, as I have occasionally seen it on bills of 
 fare. 
 
 Remember that venison cools rapidly. Iced or cold wines 
 should not be served with it. Hot plates should not be for- 
 gotten. 
 
 Rhine wine takes kindly to boiled or roast ham. 
 
 Have you tried blanched almonds sauteed with a little 
 butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper, and served after 
 the cheese ? 
 
 But one might suggest in this way indefinitely. The sub- 
 ject is inexhaustible. 
 
 Remarks on Wines. — A guest should not be censured " by 
 looks " from the host if he refuses to drink any other wine 
 than that served with the first course, provided it is of a 
 good vintage and pleases his palate. Good, honest wines 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 103 
 
 should be served at all large entertainments, but ''private 
 stock" and "rare vintages" should be reserved for the more 
 private affairs, where the guests are personal friends of the 
 host, and, though not recognized as wine-drinkers, they are 
 good judges of and appreciate thoroughly a good glass of 
 wine. The promiscuous gathering (with few exceptions) sel- 
 dom appreciates a rare bottle of still wine. Their ideal 
 wine is the champagne. I have often seen a bottle of splen- 
 did Chateau Yqueni and Johannesberger pushed aside as 
 " stuff " the moment the champagne appeared, and by gentle- 
 men whom I had previously considered Ion vivants. They 
 will tell you that a wine with a deposit or crust cannot be 
 pure, and it is only a waste of time to attempt to explain that 
 old wines without a deposit are more or less doctored. 
 
 The host should be censured for sending his cellar curiosi- 
 ties to table when the majority of the guests are strangers to 
 him. 
 
 On decanting wines, Denman has observed: " To fully de- 
 velop the flavor and bouquet of any wine a little gentle warmth 
 is necessary, and it is therefore advisable that the wines in- 
 tended for immediate use should be placed in a warmer tem- 
 perature than that of the cellar"; and Fin-Bee adds "that 
 the dining-room is the proper place," which is the cus- 
 tom among first-class caterers. The heavy wines should re- 
 main in the dining-room uncorked a few hours under the su- 
 pervision of a trusty person, for the average waiter is partial 
 to good wine, and can remove a bottle as dexterously as a 
 king of legerdemain. 
 
 Francatelli insists that the different kinds of sherries, ports, 
 Maderia, and all Spanish and Portuguese wines are improved 
 by being decanted several hours before dinner. 
 
 His advice and suggestions are proper ; but does it not 
 please the eye — is there not an unwritten history in all the 
 dark cobwebs, etc., that cling with a brotherly affection to 
 the original bottle? 
 
 The favorite Hocks with Americans are P. A. Mumm's Jo- 
 hannesberg, Barton & Guestier's, Henkell & Co.'s wines, and a 
 few other well-known reliable firms. Prince Metternich, 
 
104 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Schloss Johannesberg wines are very good, but " Blue Seal "is 
 held at too high a figure ($150 per case) to ever become popular. 
 
 P. A. Mumm's Hock wines are favorites, and justly so, tor 
 they are entirely free from adulteration. 
 
 At an American banquet recently given in London, the fa- 
 vorite wine was Heidsieck, on the ground that it was one of 
 i he first wines to find popular favor in America. This in- 
 formation will, no doubt, surprise wine-drinking Americans, 
 for if our custom-house reports of importation are reliable, 
 we have discovered several Rheims wines that are decidedly su- 
 perior to Heidsieck. The importation in 1879 of G. H. 
 Mumm's champagne alone was twenty-two thousand five 
 hundred and twenty-six cases more than of any other brand. 
 
 Pommery and Cliquot (the two widows), Roederer dry, 
 Moet & Chandon, Imperial, and a few others are all good 
 dinner wines. 
 
 Sparkling Hock, if properly handled, is a wine that should 
 find favor in this country, but the demand is so limited that 
 it is very apt to spoil before the case is used up. That made 
 from the Riesling grape is the best. 
 
 American champagnes (and it grieves me to Fay it) are not 
 the proper wines to serve at a banquet or dinner Their pecu- 
 liar acrid taste does not suit a palate that has been educated 
 on foreign wines. They may be served at a banquet given 
 in a foreign country where every dish and every wine is 
 purely American, or sent to the cook for his champagne (?) 
 sauce, etc. A bottle of "Cook's Imperial" may be served 
 at lunch, and it is proper enough at the end of the bar where 
 the crackers and cheese hold court. It finds favor with the 
 youth "seeing the sights" of a great city, but not elsewhere. 
 
 Pierre Blot, in the Galaxy, observed " that American wines 
 are just as good as foreign wines for the table and for cooking 
 purposes. Bogus wines," he said, " are sold to native Ameri- 
 cans almost entirely." Friend Blot evidently got in with the 
 ivrong crowd when he visited us. 
 
 The First Champagne. — It happened that about the year 1668 
 the office of cellarer was conferred upon a worthy monk 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 105 
 
 named Perignon. Poets and roasters, we know, are born, and 
 not made ; and this precursor of the Moets and Cliquots, the 
 Heidsiecks and the Munims of our days, seems to have been 
 a heaven-born cellarman, with a strong head and a discrimi- 
 nating palate. The wine exacted from the neighboring cul- 
 tivators was of all qualities, good, bad, and indifferent; and 
 with the spirit of a true Benedictine, Dom Perignon hit 
 upon the idea of "marrying" the produce of one vineyard 
 with that of another. He had noted that one kind of soil 
 imparted fragrance and another generosity, and discovered 
 that a white wine could be made from the blackest grapes, 
 which would keep good, instead of turning yellow and de- 
 generating like the wine obtained from white ones. More- 
 over, the happy thought occurred to him that a piece of cork 
 was a much more suitable stopper for a bottle than the flax 
 dipped in oil which had heretofore served that purpose. 
 The white, or, as it was sometimes styled, the gray wine of 
 Champagne grew famous, and the manufacture spread 
 throughout the province, but that of Hautvillers held the 
 predominance. The cellarer, ever busy among his vats and 
 presses, barrels and bottles, alighted upon a discovery des- 
 tined to be far more important in its results. He found 
 out the way of making an effervescent wine, a wine that 
 burst out of the bottle and overflowed the glass, that was 
 twice as dainty to the taste, and twice as exhilarating in its 
 effects. It was at the close of the seventeenth century that 
 this discovery was made, when the glory of the Roi Soleil 
 was on the wane, and with it the splendor of the court of 
 Versailles. The king for whose especial benefit liquors had 
 been invented found a gleam of his youthful energy as he 
 sipped the creamy, foaming vintage that enlivened his dreary 
 tete-a-tete with the widow of Scarron. It found its chief 
 patrons, however, among the bands of gay young roysterers, 
 the future roues of the Regency, whom the Due d'Orleans 
 and the Due de Vendome had gathered round them at the 
 Palais Royal and at Anet. It was at one of the famous 
 soupers d'Anet that the Marquis de Sillery, who had turned 
 his sword into a pruning-knife and applied himself to the 
 
106 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 cultivation of his paternal vineyards on the principles incul- 
 cated by the cellarer of St. Peter's, first introduced the wine 
 bearing his name. The flower-wreathed bottles which, at a 
 given signal, a dozen of blooming young damsels scantily 
 draped in the guise of Bacchanals placed upon the table 
 were hailed with rapture, and thenceforth sparkling wine 
 was an indispensable adjunct at all the petits soupers of the 
 period. In the highest circles the popping of champagne- 
 corks seemed to ring the knell of sadness, and the victories 
 of Marlborough were in a measure compensated for by this 
 grand discovery. — London Society. 
 
 MIXED DRINKS. 
 
 My receipts under this head are inserted for the benefit of 
 the gentlemen, many of whom in the course of my experience 
 have bewailed their lack of knowledge on this point when 
 wishing to entertain their male friends at home. 
 
 Lemonade. — Take half a pound of loaf-sugar and reduce it 
 to a syrup with one pint of water ; add the rind of five 
 lemons and let stand an hour ; remove the rinds and add 
 the strained juice of the lemons; add one bottle of " Apol- 
 linaris " water, and a block of ice in centre of bowl. Peel one 
 lemon and cut it up into thin slices, divide each slice in two, 
 and put in lemonade. Claret or fine cordials may be added 
 if desired. Serve with a piece of lemon in each glass. 
 
 Milk Punch. — For a small party: Dissolve half a pound 
 of sugar in a little hot water which has been flavored slightly 
 with a little lemon peel ; add the syrup to two quarts of 
 rich milk (cream is preferable) ; pour in one pint of brandy 
 and one gill of Jamaica rum ; mix thoroughly, dust a little 
 grated nutmeg over it, and set it in a cool place. Beat the 
 whites of four eggs to a stiff froth with a little sugar and 
 float on top of punch same as with egg-nogg. Sprinkle a 
 little confectionery sugar over froth. Place a small piece of 
 ice in each tumbler when serving. 
 
 Egg-nogg. — For a small party : Separate the yolks and 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 107 
 
 whites of twelve eggs ; beat the yolks thoroughly, add two 
 heaping cupfuls of sugar and half a grated nutmeg ; beat 
 the whole together thoroughly ; add half a pint of bran- 
 dy, half that quantity of Jamaica or Santa Cruz rum, and 
 two quarts of rich milk. Beat up the whites of six of the 
 eggs to a stiff froth, float it on top of mixture, and dust with 
 a little confectioner's sugar. Place a piece of ice in each 
 tumbler when serving. 
 
 Hot Tom and Jerry. — Separate the yolks and whites often 
 eggs. Beat the yolks up thoroughly and add gradually four 
 pounds of sugar. Beat up whites of eggs to a stiff froth and 
 add gradually to above mixture. Flavor this batter with one 
 wineglassful of Maraschino and a little nutmeg. Put one 
 tablespoonful of this mixture into a china mug with a wine- 
 glassful of brandy and one tablespoonful of rum, and fill up 
 the mug with hot water, stir well and dust a little more 
 grated nutmeg over it if desired. Sherry may be used 
 instead of brandy if preferred. 
 
 Hot Apple Toddy. — Heat a tumbler with hot water ; throw 
 out the water ; put in one teaspoonful of sugar and one wine- 
 glassful of apple brandy ; fill glass two-thirds full with hot 
 water, add one quarter of a warm baked apple, a trifle of 
 grated nutmeg, and send to table with spoon in the glass and 
 some hard water crackers. 
 
 Hot Spiced Rum. — Heat a glass with a little hot water; 
 throw out the water ; put in one teaspoonful of sugar, one 
 wineglassful of rum, a walnut of butter, three whole all- 
 spice, one clove, and fill up with hot water. Dust a little 
 grated nutmeg over top if desired. Substitute Scotch whis- 
 key for rum if preferred. 
 
 Santa Cruz Punch. — Place the juice of two lemons, one 
 heaping tablespoonful of sugar, and a little water in a tum- 
 bler ; stir a few minutes to dissolve the sugar ; add a wine- 
 glassful of Santa Cruz rum ; fill up the goblet with fine ice ; 
 add a slice each of orange, lemon, and pineapple. Stir well 
 and serve with straws. 
 
108 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 The favorite brands of whiskies are the famous "Old 
 Crow " Bourbon, "Hermitage" and " Monongahela Mono- 
 gram " rye. 
 
 Orange Co., N. Y., apple-jack is superior to that made 
 in New Jersey. 
 
 Have you tried the sherries from the oldest house in Spain 
 — Juan Gmo. Burdon ? They are excellent. Served with 
 our favorite dish, terrapin, the epicure exclaims : " The 
 eternal fitness of things ! " 
 
 PRESERVING, ETC. 
 
 It is not many years since every good housewife felt 
 called upon at least once a year to take a great deal of 
 trouble in preserving a supply of fruit for use during the 
 winter months. The purchase of fruit-jars, the picking, or 
 purchase, and sorting of fruit, the purchase of sugar, the 
 boiling and preparation of the syrup, oftentimes in the hot- 
 test weather, was a task which many a good housewife looked 
 forward to with some trepidation, while the uncertainties 
 attending the keeping qualities of the preserves, after they 
 were manufactured, made this a rather undesirable feature 
 in housekeeping. 
 
 Within a few years, however, all this has become unneces- 
 sary ; the manufacture of preserves on a large scale, with 
 skilled labor and improved appliances, has proven, as in 
 many other branches of manufacture, a great success ; and 
 while there are some thrifty housewives who still think 
 their "home-made " preserves are better than the "store" 
 article, it is undoubtedly true that the high-class preserves, 
 such as are sold by Thurber, Park & Tilford, Acker, Mer- 
 rall & Condit, and other first-class grocers, are decidedly 
 fine, and in a number of cases far more appetizing and 
 delicate than the home-made article. I say this with all 
 due respect for the skill shown by many careful, conscien- 
 tious housewives throughout the land, but in this case the 
 doctrine " survival of the fittest," I think, is quite applica- 
 ble. Too many people are apt to sit down, fold their 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 109 
 
 hands, and disclaim against anything not made at home, at 
 least as far as preserves and candied fruits are concerned. 
 The sword, I must admit, cuts buth ways. While I have 
 wrestled carefully and conscientiously at many houses with 
 alleged preserves made at home, I have suffered the "pangs 
 of Tantalus " from atrocious compounds put on the market 
 by conscienceless manufacturers. For the benefit of those 
 who desire to " do up " their own fruits I append a few 
 trustworthy receipts. For preserving, the "Almy jar" is 
 particularly to be recommended. 
 
 In using this jar, fill it with the desired fruit while cold. 
 Make a syrup of sugar (quantity as given below) by boiling 
 well to prevent fermentation, or it can be put on fruit dry. 
 Fill jar with fruit, pour sugar over it until jar is full half- 
 way up the neck ; screw on covers of jars without rubber 
 rings ; put a board indented with holes in botton of wash- 
 boiler and stand jars on it ; fill boiler with cold water up 
 to neck of jars ; boil (time necessary for different fruits is 
 given below), then remove jars one by one, take off covers, 
 fill with boiling water, put on rubber-rings and screw covers 
 on tightly as possible. The same process is used in pre- 
 serving all kinds of fruits. 
 
 PREPARING FRUITS FOR PRESERVING. 
 
 Boil Cherries moderately 5 minutes. 
 
 " Raspberries " 6 " 
 
 " Blackberries " 6 " 
 
 " Plums " 10 
 
 " Strawberries " 8 " 
 
 " Whortleberries 5 " 
 
 " Pie-Plant sliced 10 " 
 
 " Small Sour Pears, whole 30 " 
 
 " Bartlett Pears, in halves 20 " 
 
 " Peaches " 8 " 
 
 " Peaches, whole , 15 " 
 
 " Pineapple, sliced ^ inch thick 15 " 
 
 " Siberian or Crab Apple, whole 25 " 
 
 " Sour Apples, quartered 10 " 
 
 " Ripe Currants 6 " 
 
 " Wild Grapes 10 " 
 
 " Tomatoes I 90 " 
 
 Pour into warm jars. 
 
110 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 The amount of sugar to a quart jar should be : 
 
 For Cherries 6 ounces. 
 
 " Raspberries 4 " 
 
 " Lawton Blackberries 6 " 
 
 " Field " 6 " 
 
 " Strawberries 8 " 
 
 " Whortleberries 4 " 
 
 " Quince 10 " 
 
 " Small Sour Pears, whole 8 " 
 
 " Wild Grapes 8 " 
 
 " Peaches 4 «* 
 
 " Bartlett Pears 6 " 
 
 " Pineapples 6 " 
 
 " Siberian or Crab Apples 8 " 
 
 " Plums 8 M 
 
 " Pie-Plant 10 " 
 
 " Sour Apples, quartered 6 " 
 
 " Ripe Currants 8 " 
 
 Cider may be kept fresh and sweet by simply heating it 
 until it throws off steam, then putting 'into hot jars and 
 sealing immediately. 
 
 Apple Sauce ready for table use or pies may be preserved by 
 putting in hot jars and sealing at once. Remember cold 
 fruit requires cold jars, hot fruit requires hot jars. 
 
 To open the Jar. — Take the blade of a penknife, or any 
 oth r thin instrument, and push the rubber in towards the 
 neck at the on the shoulder of the jar. The air will enter 
 and the lid will easily unscrew. 
 
 Currant Jelly. — One pound of granulated sugar to each 
 pint of juice. Squeeze the currants and boil juice twenty 
 minutes, then add sugar, which should be heating while the 
 juice boils ; stir well together until sugar is well dissolved. 
 
 M. G. H. 
 
 Wine Jelly. — One box of Cox's gelatine, dissolved in one 
 pint of cold water, one pint of wine, one quart of boiling 
 water, one quart of granulated sugar, and three lemons. 
 
 M. G. H. 
 
 In making Jam, the first thing to be looked after is the 
 fruit. As a general rule, this should be fully ripe, fresh, 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. Ill 
 
 sound, and scrupulously clean and dry. It should be gath- 
 ered in the morning of a sunny day, as it will then possess its 
 finest flavor. The best sugar is the cheapest ; indeed, there 
 is no economy in stinting the sugar, either as to quality or 
 necessary quantity, for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and 
 the jam will not keep unless a sufficient proportion of sugar 
 is boiled with the fruit. At the same time too large a pro- 
 portion of sugar will destroy the natural flavor of the fruit, 
 and in all probability make the jam candy. The sugar 
 should be dried and broken up into small pieces before it is 
 mixed with the fruit. If it is left in large lumps it will be 
 a long time in dissolving, and if it is crushed to powder it 
 will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. 
 The quantity to be used must depend in every instance on 
 the nature of the fruit. Fruit is generally boiled in a brass 
 or copper pan uncovered, and this should be kept perfectly 
 bright and clean. Great care should be taken not to place 
 the pan flat upon the fire, as this will be likely to make the 
 jam burn to the bottom of the pan. If it cannot be placed 
 upon a stove- plate, set it upon a slab of soap-stone or marble 
 over the fire. Glass jars are much the best for jam, as 
 through them the condition of the fruit can be observed. 
 Whatever jars are used, however, the jam should be examined 
 every three weeks for the first two months, and if there are 
 any signs of either mould or fermentation it should be 
 boiled over again. If you do not want to use the patent 
 glass jar, the best way to cover jam is to lay a piece of paper 
 the size of the jar upon the jam, to stretch over the top a 
 piece of writing-paper or tissue-paper which has been dipped 
 in white of e^g, and to press the sides closely down. When 
 dry, this paper will be stiff and tight like a drum. The 
 strict economist may use gum dissolved in water instead of 
 white of egg. The object aimed at is to exclude the air en- 
 tirely. Jam should be stored in a cool, dry place, but not in 
 one into which fresh air never enters. Damp has a tenden- 
 cy to make the fruit go mouldy and heat to make it fer- 
 ment. Some cooks cover the jam as soon as possible after it 
 is poured out, but the generally-approved plan is to let the 
 
112 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 fruit grow cold before covering it. In making jam, contin- 
 ual watchfulness is required, as the result of live minutes' 
 inattention may be loss and disappointment. 
 
 Canning Tomatoes. — Scald your tomatoes; remove the skins, 
 cut in small pieces, put in a porcelain -kettle, salt to taste, 
 and boil fifteen minutes ; have tin cans filled with hot water ; 
 pour the water out and fill with tomatoes ; solder tops on im- 
 mediately with shellac and rosin melted together, m. g. h. 
 
 In canning, it is customary at hotels to follow the same 
 process as in preserving, with the exception that not nearly 
 so much sugar is used. 
 
 To Can Quinces. — Cut the quinces into thin slices like ap- 
 ples for pies. To one quart jarful of quince take a coffee- 
 saucer and a half of sugar and a coffee-cup of water ; put 
 the sugar and water on the fire, and when boiling put in the 
 quinces; have ready the jars with their fastenings, stand the 
 jars in a pan of boiling water on the stove, and when the 
 quince is clear and tender put rapidly into the jars, fruit and 
 syrup together. The jars must be filled so that the syrup 
 overflows, and fastened up tight as quickly as possible. 
 
 Green Tomato Pickle. — One peck green tomatoes sliced, six 
 large onions sliced, one tea-cup of salt over both ; mix tho- 
 roughly and let remain over-night; pour off liquor in (he 
 morning and throw it away ; mix two quarts of water and one 
 of vinegar, and boil twenty minutes ; drain and throw liquor 
 away ; take three quarts of vinegar, two pounds of sugar, two 
 tabl'cspoonfuls each of allspice, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and 
 mustard, and twelve green peppers chopped fine ; boil from 
 one to two hours. Put away in a stone crock. M. G. H. 
 
 Chili Sauce. — Eight quarts tomatoes, three cups of peppers, 
 two cups of onions, three cups of sugar, one cup of salt, one 
 and one-half quarts of vinegar, three teaspoonfuls of cloves, 
 same quantity of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls each of ginger 
 and nutmeg ; boil three hours ; chop tomatoes, peppers, 
 and onions very fine ; bottle up and seal. M. g. h. 
 
 Hot Sauce. — Six tablespoonf uls of sugar, twotablespoonfuls 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 113 
 
 of butter, one egg ; beat butter, sugar, and yolks together, 
 the white, beaten to a stiff truth; add a teaeupful of boiling 
 water and one teaspoonf ul of vanilla. m. g. h. 
 
 The best way to prepare a new iron kettle for use is to fill 
 it with clean potato parings ; boil them for an hour or more, 
 then wash the kettle with hot water, wipe it dry, and rub it 
 with a little lard ; repeat the rubbing for half a dozen times 
 after using. In this way you will prevent rust and all the 
 annoyances liable to occur in the use of a new kettle. 
 
 A new antiseptic is described by the Journal of Chemistry, 
 It is a double salt of borate of potassium and sodium ; and is 
 made by dissolving in water equal portions of chloride of po- 
 tassium, nitrate of sodium, and boracic acid, filtering and 
 evaporating to dryness. It does not give a bad taste to food. 
 Butter may be kept sweet by it at ordinary temperatures for 
 a week. Meat, game, etc., dipped in a weak solution remain 
 pure for a long time. A piece of meat well rubbed with the 
 salt and laid away two years ago is now in perfectly good 
 condition. Eggs dipped in a solution of this antiseptic re- 
 main good for a long period. 
 
 Morning Tonic. — An agreeable and effective tonic for the 
 correction of any discomfort arising from a too heavy supper 
 the night before may be taken in the morning before break- 
 fast, as follows : One wineglassful of "Hunyadi Water," fif- 
 teen minutes afterward a goblet of " Apollinaris Water "; wait 
 half an hour before breakfasting. The use of any alcoholic 
 beverages before breakfast, such as cocktails, etc., is to be 
 deprecated, as, aside from any moral point, it tends to pro- 
 mote indigestion, creates a false appetite, and is in every 
 way injurious to the system. The man who resorts to it for 
 "toning up," or as an "appetizer," deceives himself. 
 
 Dyspepsia Cure. — One-half an ounce each of pepsin and 
 bismuth, one-quarter of an ounce cubebs, and two and a half 
 grains lime ; mix well and take a pinch of the powder fifteen 
 minutes after each meal. I have never known this remedy 
 to fail when tried. t. j. m. 
 
114 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 MENUS. 
 
 My object in introducing the following menus is to serve 
 a double purpose : first, to show progress made in the art of 
 constructing menus in the past thirty years — for it is an art, 
 and a very important one, too — among leading caterers ; and 
 second, to furnish hints to all who may wish to give dinners 
 or suppers more or less elaborate. It has often happened in 
 my experience that customers would submit to me bills of 
 fare constructed by another caterer in the event of a pros- 
 pective "spread," and say there was something about it 
 they did not like, some dish they would like to substitute, 
 etc. In this small space I have only attempted to give a few 
 of the many thousand varieties in my collection, but I now 
 have in preparation a volume embodying bills of fare, esti- 
 mates for cost of different bills based on number of guests to 
 be seated, together with a glossary or dictionary of French 
 idioms and words used in menus and the reason of their 
 adoption. The use of any but our own language on bills of 
 fare ought to be avoided, but there are cases where it is im- 
 possible, and it is with the view of enlightening those who 
 cannot understand the meaning of French terms used, and 
 yet shrink from displaying their lack of knowledge, that I 
 have devoted my time to the construction of a glossary. 
 
 DINNER ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF 
 DANIEL WEBSTER. 
 
 At the Revere House, Boston, Friday, Jan. 18, 1856. 
 
 Oysters on Shell. 
 
 Soup. 
 
 Mock Turtle. Tomato. Fish Chowder. 
 
 Fish. 
 
 Boiled Cod's Head and Oysters. 
 
 Fried Sea Trout with Rashers of Pork. 
 
 Baked Striped Bass, Stuffed, Claret Sauce. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 115 
 
 Removes. 
 
 Roast Turkey. Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Roast Sirloin of Beef. Boiled Capons and Pork, Celery Sauce. 
 
 Roast Mongrel Geese from Marshfield. 
 Boiled Leg English Mutton, Caper Sauce. 
 
 Roast Westphalia Ham, Champagne Sauce. 
 
 Cold Ornamental Dishes. 
 
 Boar's Head on a Socle, Decorated. 
 
 Lobster Salad, Garnished, in Jelly. Galatine of Turkey with Truffles. 
 
 Quail with Plumage, on Form. Boned Chicken with Truffles. 
 
 Pate of Liver in Jelly. Aspic of Oysters, a la Royale. 
 
 Entrees. 
 
 Macaroni a la Anizine. Mutton Cutlets, Breaded. 
 
 Venison Steak, Jelly Sauce. Vol au Vent, a la Financiere. 
 
 Arcade of Partridge with Olives. 
 
 Terrapin, Stewed, Port Wine Sauce. 
 
 Fillets of Black Grouse with Truffles. 
 
 Sweetbreads, Larded, with Green Peas. 
 
 Veal Cutlets, Larded, Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Mutton Kidneys, Champagne Sauce.. 
 
 Fillet of Beef with Mushrooms. Turban of Fillets of Chicken. 
 
 Calf s Head, Turtle Sauce. Oysters Fried in Crumbs. 
 
 Tripe, Webster Style. 
 
 Game. 
 
 Gray Ducks. Canvas-Back Ducks. Black Ducks. 
 
 Widgeons. Partridge. Red Heads. Prairie Grouse. 
 
 Quail. English Pheasants. Teal. Brant. 
 
 Meringue Baskets. Omelet Soufflee. Blanc-Mange. Pastry. 
 Creams. Confectionery. Wine Jelly. Charlotte Russe. 
 
 ORNAMENTS. 
 
 Dessert 
 
 Lemon Ice-Cream. Fruit. Frozen Plum-Pudding. 
 Roman Punch. Bon-Bon Glace. 
 
 Coffee and Liqueurs. 
 
116 
 
 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 BANQUET AT THE TENTH ANNUAL REUNION OF THE 
 SOCIETY OF THE ARMY OF THE CUMBERLAND. 
 
 Friday, July 7, 1876, St. George's Hall, Philadelphia. 
 
 President. — Lieut.- Gen. Philip H. Sheridan. 
 
 Soup. 
 
 Green Turtle, Sherry Wine. 
 
 Fish. 
 
 Salmon — Lobster Sauce, Iced Cucumbers, Haut Bareac. 
 
 Roast. 
 
 Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce. Fillet de Bceuf, with Mushrooms. 
 
 Geisler Blue Seal Champagne. 
 
 Vegetables. 
 
 Potatoes. Peas. Tomatoes. Cauliflower. 
 
 Entrees. 
 
 Sweetbreads and Peas. Chicken Croquettes. 
 
 Salad. 
 
 Lobster. 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 Ices. Meringues. Fruit. Claret Wine. Coffee. 
 
 Brandy. Whiskey. Cigars. 
 
 The President of the U. S., 
 
 George H. Thomas, 
 
 The Army and Navy, 
 
 The Volunteers, . 
 
 The Army of the Cumberland, 
 
 Sherman's Army, . 
 
 Our Departed Comrades, 
 
 Toasts. 
 
 Gen. J. S. Fullerton. 
 Gen. J. A. Garfield. 
 Gen. W. T. Sherman. 
 Gen. J. P. Bankson. 
 Gen. C. H. Grosvenor. 
 Major W. H. Lambert. 
 Gen. Wm. Cogswell. 
 
 BANQUET AND RECEPTION TO HON. MATTHEW S. 
 
 QUAY. 
 
 November 23, 1878. 
 
 Second only to the entertainment given to Grand Duke Alexis, in 
 1869, was the reception and banquet tendered to Hon. Matthew S. 
 Quay, late chairman of the Republican State Committee, by the 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 117 
 
 Union Republican Club, yesterday afternoon and evening, at the club- 
 rooms and banqueting-room of the Continental Hotel. The recep- 
 tion ceremonies commenced promptly at the hour of five o'clock, at 
 the club-rooms, President Addicks officiating, and continued until seven 
 o'clock, when the members of the club to the number of 1 12, accom- 
 panied by twenty-five invited guests, and the grandest display of fire- 
 works ever witnessed in this city, repaired to the banqueting-room of 
 the Continental Hotel. 
 
 At precisely eight o'clock the party assembled sat down to the most 
 sumptuous banquet ever prepared in this city, and it was not until 10 
 o'clock that the lengthy bill of fare was disposed of. At the latter 
 hour Mr. Rufus E. Shapley, the toastmaster of the evening, an- 
 nounced the first toast, to which the honored guest of the occasion, 
 Hon. M. S. Quay, fittingly responded. He was followed by Hon. 
 Morton McMichael, and ex-Governor Thomas L. Young, of Ohio, 
 responded to the toast of "the President of the United States." Gov- 
 ernor Hartranft followed, and succeeding him came Governor-elect 
 Hoyt, who, after an excellent speech, introduced General Adam E. 
 King, of Baltimore, who made one of the best speeches of the even- 
 ing. Hon. Galusha A. Grow followed in a lengthy speech, and he 
 was followed by General Palmer, of Wilkesbarre. Speeches were 
 also made by Colonel Norris and others, until the hour of twelve 
 o'clock arrived, when the party dispersed. 
 
 Carl Sentz's band furnished the music for the occasion, while Mr. 
 Murrey superintended the banquet. One of the chief features of the 
 banquet was the bill of fare, which was certainly the handsomest and 
 most costly of any ever gotten up in this city, and, as a souvenir, will 
 long be treasured by all who participated on the occasion. 
 
 Prominent among those present were Governor Hartranft, Gover- 
 nor-elect Hoyt, ex-Governor Young, of Ohio, Hon. Galusha A. Grow, 
 Mayor Stokley, ex-Mayor McMichael, Judges Yerkes, Thayer, Briggs, 
 and Ashman, Gen. McCartney, Gen. Palmer, Gen. Owen, Hon. B. 
 H. Brewster, Attorney-General Lear, Hon. Butterworlh, First Con- 
 gressional district of Ohio, Gen. Bingham, James McManes, Esq., 
 United States District- Attorney Valentine, Lieutenant-Governor- 
 elect C. W. Stone, Messrs. Leeds, Hill, Thomas J. Smith, Henry 
 Bumm, and Colonel Norris. 
 
 Menu. 
 
 Blue Point Oysters. Chablis. 
 
 Green Turtle. Colbert. 
 
 Sherry. 
 
 Pates a la Reine. 
 
118 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Salmon Sauce, Hollandaise. 
 
 Filet of English Sole, a l'Allemande. Potato Croquette. 
 
 Marcobrunner. 
 
 Sweet-Bread, a la Morland. Breast of Capon, a la Marengo. 
 
 Terrapin. La Rose. 
 
 Asparagus, French Peas. Mumra's Extra Dry. 
 
 Punch a la Romaine, in Orange Baskets. 
 
 Cigarettes. 
 
 Canvas-back Duck. Saddle of Venison. 
 
 Potatoes Parisienne. Chambertin. 
 
 Celery, en Mayonnaise, Lettuce. 
 Old English and Roquefort Cheese. Osbourne's Old Port. 
 
 Charlotte Russe, Jellies. Gateaux Assortis Bisquit, Glace. 
 
 Ice-Cream, Fruits, French Coffee, Liquors. 
 — Judge Bunn's Transcript. 
 
 DINNER A LA MARYLAND. 
 A patriotic son of Maryland has suggested as a perfect dinner, the 
 choice of the amphitryon being restricted to the productions of the 
 State, the following : 
 
 Four small Lynhaven Bay oysters. 
 Terrapin, a la Maryland. 
 
 Canvas-back Duck. 
 
 Salad of Crab and Lettuce. 
 
 Baked Irish Potatoes. Fried Hominy Cakes. Plain Celery. 
 
 A royal feast, I assure you j but as I have not been invited, and as 
 the affair may not come off, I feel at liberty to criticise. I consider a 
 salad of crab and lettuce " too heavy " for such a menu as our u pa 
 triotic son of Maryland" has suggested ; and as for the fried hominy 
 cakes, why, it is like feeding swine on truffles — out of place, I assure 
 you ! It is too suggestive of the hog and hominy of the Sunny South. 
 My gastronomic friend, where is your elegant Burgundy, or a bottle 
 of the Leland Brothers' private stock Madeira ? 
 
 Now I will give you my idea of a loyal dinner : 
 
 Menu. 
 
 Four Blue Point Oysters. 
 
 Consomme with Egg. Celery. Grated Rusk. 
 
 " Petites Bouchees " of Quail. 
 
 Terrapin, Philadelphia style. Saratoga Chips. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 119 
 
 Canvas-back Duck. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Lettuce Salad, plain Dressing. 
 
 Roquefort Cheese, with Hard Water-Cracker. 
 
 Coffee Demi-tasse. 
 
 The coffee is to be made at table by an expert ; and the wines — 
 well, say a bottle of sparkling Hock made from the Riesling grape 
 served after the soup-plates have been removed, and a choice bottle 
 of good old Burgundy or rare Madeira. 
 
 BANQUET TO THE EON. GEORGE LEAR, EX-ATTORNEY- 
 GENERAL, TENDERED BY THE SENATE OF PENN- 
 SYLVANIA. 
 
 Lochiel Hotel, Harrisburg, Pa., Thursday, March 27, 1879. 
 
 Served by Thomas J. Murrey, of Continental Hotel, Phila. 
 
 Menu. 
 Oysters. Celery. Chablis. 
 
 Chicken a la Reine. Amontillado Sherry. 
 
 Petites Bouchees a l'Imperial. 
 Boiled Striped Bass, Hollandaise. 
 
 Broiled Shad, Sauce Tartare. 
 Cucumber Salad. 
 
 P. A. Mumm's Johannesberg. 
 
 Fillet of Beef, with Mushrooms. 
 
 Loin of Lamb, Epicurean. 
 
 Godillat's French Peas. Potatoes Duchesse. 
 
 Chateau La Rose. 
 
 Supreme of Fowl, Sauce Bearnaise. 
 
 Cutlet of Sweet-breads a la Perigord. 
 Tomatoes Stuffed an Gratia. 
 
 G. H. Mumm's Extra Dry. 
 
 Punch Cardinal. Cigarettes a la Russe. 
 
 Squabs Stuffed a la Murrey. Chambertin. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Omelette Souffle. Assorted Jelly. 
 
 Glace Napolitaine. Assorted Cake. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Roquefort Cheese. Boston Water-Crackexe. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
120 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 A DICKENS CHRISTMAS DINNER. 
 (From Dickens' Story of "A Christmas Carol.") 
 
 COMPOSED BY T. J. MURREY. 
 
 Preparatory. 
 
 "What's to-day, my fine fellow?" " To-day? why, Christmas 
 day." 
 
 The flickering of the blaze showed preparations for a cozy dinner, 
 with hot plates baking through and through before the fire. 
 
 She laid the cloth, assisted by Belinda. And everything was good 
 to eat, and in its Christmas dress. 
 
 At last the dishes were set on and grace was said. 
 
 Dinner. 
 Oysters. 
 u Self-contained and solitary as an oyster." 
 
 Barrels of Oysters. Chateau Sauterne. 
 
 u A glass of wine ready to our hand." 
 Light Wine. 
 Hors-oVoiuvre. 
 Tiny Tim Pickles. 
 Soup. 
 Creme of Cauliflower — Fin-Bee. 
 " The compound was considered perfect." 
 " It had a remarkable quality, and Scrooge observed it." 
 
 Sherry (private stock, 1836). 
 " From a cask in the merchants' wine-cellars below." 
 u Here he produced a decanter of wine." 
 
 Fish. 
 Filet of Sole— Sam Ward. 
 " The very fish in a bowl, though members of a dull and stagnant- 
 blooded race, appeared to know that there was something going on. 
 Scrooge's ' two fish-baskets ' never held anything like them." 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 " He blew the fire until the slow potatoes, bubbling up, knocked 
 loudly at the saucepan-lid to be let out and peeled." 
 Nackenheimer Auslese. 
 " Satisfactory, too. Oh ! perfectly satisfactory." 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 121 
 
 Entree. 
 Tenderloin of Pork — Chas. Lamb. 
 u An animal that grunted sometimes." 
 " Seasonable at Christmas time." 
 
 Spanish Onions Stuffed and Baked. 
 " Shining in the fatness of their growth like Spanish friars." 
 
 Pommeiy Sec. 
 " Never out of season." 
 f* He iced his." 
 
 Punch a la Bishop. 
 " We will discuss your affairs over the punch." 
 
 Boast 
 Turkey. 
 " It is not a fictitious one, glued on a wooden platter." 
 " Not unlike the big prize turkey that Scrooge sent to the Cratchit 
 family." 
 
 Cranberry Sauce. 
 " Modest tartness." 
 
 Goose, Apple Sauce. 
 Mashed Potato. 
 " Bob said he didn't believe there ever was such a goose cooked j 
 its tenderness and flavor were the themes of universal satisfaction." 
 
 " Eked out by apple-sauce and mashed potato, it was a sufficient 
 dinner for the whole family." 
 
 Komanee Conti. 
 u Came after the roast." 
 " A' noble adjustment of things." 
 
 Plain Salad. 
 " Like lettuce." 
 
 " It was made plain enough by the dressing. The ' aromatic 
 vinegar ' improved it." 
 
 Dessert. 
 " With the dessert upon the table." 
 
 Plum-Pudding, Brandy Sauce. 
 " Hallo ! a great steam ! the pudding was out of the copper." 
 11 Mrs. Cratchit entered with a pudding blazing in half a quartern 
 of ignited brandy " 
 
 " And a wonderful pudding it was." 
 
122 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Mince-Pies. 
 " They had mince-pies." 
 
 Confections. 
 " The candied fruits, so caked and spotted with molten sugar as 
 to make the coldest lookers-on feel faint— and subsequently bilious." 
 
 Fruit. 
 " Cherry-cheeked apples and oranges, beseeching to be carried 
 home in paper bags and eaten after dinner." 
 
 " There were bunches of grapes, and figs, and raisins, and al- 
 monds." 
 
 Cheese. 
 " A crumb of cheese." 
 
 Tea and Coffee. 
 " The blended scents of tea and coffee were so grateful to the 
 nose." 
 
 " At last dinner was all done, the cloth was cleared, the ' hot stuff' 
 in the jug was tasted, and Bob proposed — " A Merry Christmas to us 
 all.' " 
 
 On Easter day (1830) there was a private banquet at the Rossmore 
 Hotel in this city, prepared, devised, and superintended by Mr. T. J. 
 Murrey. The service was for twenty, and the menu was as follows: 
 
 Who can help loving the land that has taught us six hundred and 
 eighty-five ways to dress eggs. — Moore. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 Wm. Travers once observed that the oyster was a most intelligent 
 creature, since it " shuts up sometimes." 
 
 Soup. 
 Consomme Colbert. 
 " On holydays, with an egg or two at most." — Chaucer. 
 Fish. 
 Shad Roe — Bechamel. 
 "He was as thin as a lath, and lank as a June shad." — W. H. 
 Smith, in the novel of "The Minister's Wife." 
 Fresh Cucumbers. 
 11 For this, be sure to-night thou shalt have cramps."— Shakspere. 
 
Valuable Cooking Receipts. 123 
 
 Beleve. 
 Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. 
 " It gives true epicures the vapors 
 To see boiled mutton minus capers." 
 
 — Sam Ward. 
 Entree. 
 Puree of Guinea-Hen with Poached Eggs. 
 " The vulgar boil, the learned poach an egg. 11 — Pope. 
 
 Omelette au Bum. 
 " Made fair in the form of a maiden, 
 A medley of music and flame." 
 
 — Justin McCarthy. 
 
 Egg-Nogg, Frappe a 1' Alexandria. 
 
 Boast. 
 
 Squab, stuffed a la Lindenthorpe. 
 
 "Like a fat squab upon" a Chinese fan." — Cowper. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 " Of the sort that cost some four or five guineas a quart." — Hood. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 u Ireland's native esculent in a baked condition." 
 
 — Lord Beacon sfield. 
 
 "The principal kind of ' taters ' raised by Ireland last year was 
 agitators."— New York World, Jan. 18, 1880. 
 
 Salad. 
 
 Lettuce Francaise. 
 
 " Back to the world he'd turn his fleeting soul 
 And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl." 
 
 — Sydney' Smith. 
 
 Dessert. 
 Assorted. 
 " I crack my brains to find out tempting sauces, 
 And raise fortifications in the pastry." 
 
 —Lady Allworth's Cook. 
 
124 Valuable Cooking Receipts. 
 
 Coffee. 
 u Mocha's berry from Arabia pure, 
 In small, fine China cups, came in at last." 
 
 — Byron. 
 Cigars. 
 "Ah ! social friend, I love thee well, 
 In learned doctors' spite. Thy clouds all other 
 Clouds dispel, and lap me in delight." 
 
 — Charles Sprague. 
 
 SALAD COLLATION TO GEO. M. TOTTEN, U. S.N. 
 
 Continental Hotel, Philadelphia. 
 
 Huitres. Chablis. 
 
 Potages. 
 Colbert. Cabinet Amontillado. Pain a Caviar. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Filet de Sole, a la Godard. Marcobrunner. 
 
 Service Froid. 
 
 Filet de Bceuf Pique, au Salade Priutaniere. Eomanee Conti. 
 
 Cotelette de Volaille en Bellevue. 
 
 Salade Cranes Dur, a la Gourmand. CEufs Farci, a la Totten. 
 
 Tartelette de Pigeon, a la Vienna. Cordon Kouge. 
 
 Salad Escarole, a la Murrey. Celeri. 
 
 Laitue. Fromage de Koquefort. Old Port (private stock). 
 
 Fruit. Cafe noir. Liqueurs. 
 
 T. J. Murrey, Caterer. 
 October 2, 1878. 
 
INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Antiseptic 113 
 
 App' 3 Sauce 110 
 
 Snow 76 
 
 Toddy, Hot 107 
 
 Arrowroot for Batters and Sauces.. 37 
 
 Artichokes, Boiled 92 
 
 Jerusalem 92 
 
 Asparagus, Boiled 92 
 
 Banquet Service 101 
 
 Beef a la Mode 21 
 
 Corned 18 
 
 Fillet of 20 
 
 Roast 39 
 
 Beets, Boiled 95 
 
 Biscuit, Milk 61 
 
 Blanc-Mauge 82 
 
 Boiling. Remarks" on 17 
 
 Bread, How to make 59 
 
 Boston Brown 61 
 
 Steamed " 61 
 
 Corn 60 
 
 Continental Hotel Corn 61 
 
 Wheat 60 
 
 Stuffing 46 
 
 Cahbage, Remarks on 91 
 
 Cake, Corn 62 
 
 Tried Bread 62 
 
 Almond 76 
 
 Almond Sponge 76 
 
 Chocolate 77 
 
 Chocolate Macaroons 78 
 
 Cocoanut 77 
 
 Cocoanut Pound 78 
 
 Columbia 77 
 
 Cream 79 
 
 Crescents 81 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Cake, Ginger Cup 79 
 
 Icing 79 
 
 English Christmas 75 
 
 Knickerbocker 77 
 
 Lady Fingers, No. 1 80 
 
 " No. 2 81 
 
 Macaroons 79 
 
 Maids of Honor 81 
 
 Marbled 80 
 
 Neapolitan 80 
 
 Pound, without Soda 80 
 
 Olive Gingerbread 77 
 
 Whortleberry, No. 1 78 
 
 No. 2 78 
 
 Windsor 79 
 
 Zephyr 77 
 
 Call's Brains en Matelotte 23 
 
 Fried 24 
 
 " and Tongue 24 
 
 Head 22 
 
 " Broiled 23 
 
 " Collared 23 
 
 " Fried 22 
 
 " Maitre d'Hotel 23 
 
 Capon, Boiled 20 
 
 Roast 46 
 
 Carrots 94 
 
 Cauliflower, Boiled 95 
 
 Celery, Boiled 94 
 
 Champagne 104 
 
 Charlotte Russe 81 
 
 Chestnut Stuffing 45 
 
 Chickens a l'ltaliennc 29 
 
 Boiled 19 
 
 Croquettes 29 
 
 Fricassee 28 
 
126 
 
 Index. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Chickens, Fried 29 
 
 Liver en Brochette 31 
 
 Patties 30 
 
 Panada 30 
 
 Pie 30 
 
 Roast 46 
 
 Roast Prairie 49 
 
 Toast 31 
 
 With Dumplings 31 
 
 With Rice 29 
 
 Cider, How to keep fresh 110 
 
 Codfish, Baked 12 
 
 Salt, with Cream 13 
 
 Coffee, Remarks on 86 
 
 Corn, Boiled 95 
 
 Cream, Bavarian 83 
 
 Ice 84 
 
 Italian 83 
 
 Lemon Ice 85 
 
 Manioca 82 
 
 Peach Ice 85 
 
 Yanillalce 85 
 
 Whipped Coffee 83 
 
 Whipped with Liqueurs 83 
 
 Crullers 69 
 
 Cucumber, Stewed 96 
 
 Daudelion, Stewed 96 
 
 Dressing, Plain French 52 
 
 PlainEnglish 53 
 
 Bacon 53 
 
 Duck, Braise of, with Turnips 31 
 
 Braise of, with Peas 31 
 
 Roast Canvas- Back 48 
 
 Roast Domestic 47 
 
 Wild, Saline of 32 
 
 Drinks, Mixed 106 
 
 Dyspepsia Cure 113 
 
 Eels, Fricasseed 14 
 
 Patties 15 
 
 Egg-N ogg 106 
 
 Egg-Plant, Stuffed, No. 1 25 
 
 Stuffed, No. 2 35 
 
 Etiquette, Table 97 
 
 Fritters 37 
 
 Golden Buck 39 
 
 Goose, Roast 47 
 
 Ham a la Russe 48 
 
 Boiled 19 
 
 Horse Radish, Boiled 96 
 
 Hot Apple Toddy 107 
 
 Spiced Rum 107 
 
 Tom and Jerry 107 
 
 Ice Cream, How to make 84 
 
 PAGU 
 
 Ice Cream, Lemon 85 
 
 Peach 85 
 
 Vanilla 85 
 
 Ices, Water, Apricot 85 
 
 " Lemon 85 
 
 Icing for Cake 79 
 
 Jam 110 
 
 Jelly, Currant 110 
 
 Wine 110 
 
 Kettles, Preparing for use 113 
 
 Lamb, Breast of 28 
 
 Fricassee 28 
 
 Roast 41 
 
 Roast Saddle of 41 
 
 Lemonade 106 
 
 Lobster, Broiled 13 
 
 En Brochette 14 
 
 Macaroni, Baked 34 
 
 Macaroons 79 
 
 Basket 83 
 
 Chocolate 78 
 
 Mackerel, Salt, Broiled 13 
 
 Meringues 82 
 
 Milk Punch 106 
 
 Mince Meat for Pies 65 
 
 Mixed Drinks 106 
 
 Muffins, Continental Hotel 61 
 
 Mushrooms, Remarks on 58 
 
 Mutton, Remarks on 40 
 
 Boiled Leg of. 18 
 
 Breast of, with Peas 25 
 
 Curry of 26 
 
 Hash with Poached Eggs 26 
 
 Pie 27 
 
 Ragout of 26 
 
 Roast Leg of 41 
 
 Roast Loin of 41 
 
 Omelettes, Remarks on 37 
 
 Oyster 38 
 
 Rum 38 
 
 Souffle 38 
 
 Onions 94 
 
 Orange Basket 86 
 
 Oyster-Plant 95 
 
 Croquettes 36 
 
 Stuffing 46 
 
 Oysters, a la Poulette 7 
 
 Broiled 7 
 
 Escalloped 6 
 
 Fried 7 
 
 Patties 6 
 
 Raw 5 
 
 Roast on half-shell 6 
 
Index, 
 
 127 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Oysters, xuujrt 7 
 
 Parsnip Fritters 36 
 
 Partridge, Salm<§ of 32 
 
 Paste 64 
 
 Peas, Green 93 
 
 Bottled 93 
 
 Pickle, Green Tomato 112 
 
 Pies, Remarks on 62 
 
 Apple 64 
 
 " Meringue 65 
 
 " Sliced. 64 
 
 " Custard 65 
 
 Beefsteak 21 
 
 Custard 66 
 
 Fruit 66 
 
 Lemon Cream, No. 1 66 
 
 No. 2 67 
 
 Orange 67 
 
 Pumpkin 66 
 
 Pigeon. Roast 47 
 
 Pork, Remarks on 42 
 
 and Beans 33 
 
 Chops, Tomato Sauce 24 
 
 Sausages 25 
 
 Potatoes, Remarks on 90 
 
 Balls 35 
 
 Cakes 36 
 
 Fritters 36 
 
 Stuffed 35 
 
 Powder, Baking 70 
 
 Puff Paste 63 
 
 Pudding, Almond 72 
 
 Astor House 74 
 
 Bachelor's 73 
 
 Batter 69 
 
 Bird's Nest 73 
 
 Boiled 68 
 
 Citron 74 
 
 Chocolate 69 
 
 Coeoanut 73 
 
 Eve's 74 
 
 Harlan's 73 
 
 Manhattan 75 
 
 Manioca 75 
 
 Macaroni 72 
 
 Marlborough 72 
 
 Plum, Emrlish G7 
 
 " Plain 68 
 
 " New England 68 
 
 Roly-Poly 71 
 
 Lemon 71 
 
 Sliced Apple 74 
 
 Steamed Arrowroot 72 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Punch, Santa Cruz 107 
 
 Preserving 108 
 
 Quail, Roast 49 
 
 Quinces, Canning 112 
 
 Rail-Birds 49 
 
 Rarebit. Welsh 38 
 
 Yorkshire 39 
 
 Reed-Birds 50 
 
 Rice Croquettes 34 
 
 Roasting, Remarks on 39 
 
 Salads, Remarks on 51 
 
 Alligator Pear 58 
 
 Asparagus 56 
 
 Chicken 55 
 
 Cucumber and Tomato 57 
 
 Cucumber 57 
 
 Herring 55 
 
 Hop Sprouts 56 
 
 Lettuce 52 
 
 Lobster 54 
 
 Muskmelon 58 
 
 Potato 55 
 
 Sandwich 57 
 
 Turnip Tops 56 
 
 Yeal 55 
 
 Salmon, Soyer's Boiled 15 
 
 Salt, Remarks on 58 
 
 Santa Cruz Punch 107 
 
 Sauces, Anchovy 16 
 
 Celery 16 
 
 Caper 16 
 
 Chili 112 
 
 Drawn Butter 15 
 
 Dutch 17 
 
 Egg 17 
 
 Hot 112 
 
 Lobster 16 
 
 Maitre d'Hotel 15 
 
 Mint 41 
 
 Mayonnaise, No. 1 53 
 
 No. 2 53 
 
 Oyster, No. 1 16 
 
 No. 2. 17 
 
 Robert 25 
 
 Summer Mayonnaise 53 
 
 Tartare 23 
 
 Tomato 25 
 
 Vanilla 69 
 
 Vinaigrette 53 
 
 Wine 73 
 
 Gravy for baked Fish 17 
 
 For Plum-Pudding 68 
 
 Shad, Baked 14 
 
128 
 
 Index. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Sherries 108 
 
 Snipe, Roast 49 
 
 Soup, Beef Tea 11 
 
 Chicken, No. 1 11 
 
 No. 2 11 
 
 Gumbo 8 
 
 MockTurtle 9 
 
 OxTail 10 
 
 Pea 10 
 
 " Economical 10 
 
 Stock 8 
 
 Tomato 10 
 
 Veal Stock 8 
 
 " Broth 8 
 
 Spiced Rum, Hot 107 
 
 Spinach, Boiled 94 
 
 Sprouts, Brussels 93 
 
 Stew, Beef 21 
 
 Sweetbreads, Stewed 24 
 
 Table Etiquette •. 97 
 
 Tomatoes, Canning 112 
 
 Stuffed 34 
 
 Tom and Jerry, Hot 107 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Tonic, Morning 113 
 
 Tongue, Boiled 19 
 
 Tripe, Broiled 33 
 
 Fricassee 33 
 
 Lronnaise 33 
 
 Trout" Tenderloin 14 
 
 Turkey, Remarks on 14 
 
 Boiled 19 
 
 Roast 45 
 
 Turnips, Boiled 93 
 
 Veal Croquettes 27 
 
 Fricassee of. 27 
 
 Roast Loiu of. 40 
 
 Venison, Breast of. 33 
 
 Chops 32 
 
 Epicurean 32 
 
 Patties 33 
 
 Roast 48 
 
 Weeds 97 
 
 Whiskies 108 
 
 Wines, Remarks on 102 
 
 Woodcock, Roast 49