Qass J: / Q 4 Book _/ i4 '^ .6 ^^ i .-rysr.z TRAVEi.I-ER'S GUIDE THROUGH THE MIDDLE AND NORTHERN STATES, AND THE PROVINCES OF CANADA. S^UBLISHED BY G. M. DAVISON ; AND BT G. & C. & ». CARVILL, NEW-YORK. MDCCCXXSIV, r N., • ^ • ■ ■ ^ Entered according to the Act of Congress, ia the year 1834, by G. M. Davison, in the Clerk's office of the District Court of tho Northern District of New- • York. ' INDEX. Page. Introduction, 17 From Savannah to Charleston, Savannah, 19 Steam-boat route — table of distances, 20 Land route — table of distances, id Charleston, 21 Charleston and Augusta rail road, 22 Sullivan's Island, 23 From Charleston to J^''ew-York. Route by water — table of distances, 25 From Charleston to J^orfolk. Table of distances — Santee river, 25 Georgetown— Vv^ilmington — Newbern, 26 Washington — Plymouth — Roanoke river, id Albemarle Sound — Elizabeth City, 27 Dismal Swamp — Dismal Swamp canal, id Portsmouth— Norfolk, 28 From Jsforfolk to Washington. Table of distances, 29 From JyTorfolk to Baltimore. Table of distances — Chesapeake Bay, 30 From JSTorfolk to Richmond. Table of distances, 30 Williamsburirh — Jamestown SI VI INDEX. Richmond, 35 Manchester, • « « 34 Frcmi Richmond to Monticello. Monticello — Grave of Jefferson, 34 From Monticello to the Warm Springs. Warm Springs — Natural Bridge, 36 From Richmond to Washington City. Route and table of distances — Fredericksburgh, . . 37 Mount Vernon, 3S Alexandria, • * . . 39 Washington City, 40 G eorgetown, 47 Chesapeake and Ohio canal, 48 From Washington to Baltimore. Table of distances — Baltimore, 49 Baltimore and Ohio rail road, 53 Baltimore and Susquehannah rail road, 55 From Baltimm'e to Philadelphia. Stage route — Wilmington, 58 Steam-boat and rail road route — iNorth Point,. ... 59 Chesapeake ?nd Delaware canal, id French Town and Newcastle rail road, 60 Newcastle — Philadelphia, 63 Internal improvements — Union canal, 70 Pennsylvania canal, 72 Schuylkill canal — Lehigh canal, 74 Philadelphia and Norristown rail road, id Columbia and Philadelphia rail road, 75 Coal Mines, id From Philadelphia to the Schuylkill Coal Mines. Table of distances — Norristown, 80 INDEX. Vll Pottstown — Reading, 80 Hamburgh — Mount Carbon, 81 Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. Mauch Chunk, 84 Mauch Chunk rail road, 85 Lehigh river, 86 The landing — Lehighton,. 87 Lehiofh Water Gap — Bethlehem, 88 Easton, 89 Morris canal — Delaware Water Gap, 90 Delaware Wind Gap, 91 From Easton to Schooly^s Mountain and thence to JSTeio-York. Table of distances — Schooly's Mountain, 91 Newark, N. J id From Philadelphia to ihCexo-YorJc. Steam-boat and rail road route — table of distances, 92 Burlington — Bristol, id Bordentown — Camden and Amboy rail road,.. ... 93 Steam-boat and stage route — table of distances,. . . 94 Trenton, 95 Princeton, , id New-Brunswick, 96 Perth Amboy — Ehzabethtown — Staten Island,. , . 97 New- York, id Principal Hotels, 106 Public coaches — Excursions, Ill Gov^ernor's and Bedlow's Islands, id Staten Island — Patterson — Passaic Falls, 112 Hoboken — Weehawk — Long Branch, id Harlaem rail road, , 113 Manhattan Island. id Hurl Gate, '. 114 Brooklyn, 115 Discovery of the Hudson, Jl 16 viii INDEX- From J^ew-York to Albany. Table of distances, 113 Passage of the Hudson — Wehawken, 121 Pallisadoes,.. • 122 Fort Lee — Fort Washington, id Tappan Bay — Tarrytown, 123 Haverstraw Bay — Highlands, 124 West Point, 125 IviniLury iit ademy, 12G Pollopel Island — New Windsor, 128 Newburgh, , 129 Milton — Pougukcepsic — Hyde Park Landing, .. . 130 Delaware and Hudson canal, id Catskill, 131 Pine Orchard, 132 Athens— Hudson, 134 Coxsackie Landii g, 135 Albany, id Excursions — Man ion of Gen. Van Rensselaer,. . . 1 39 McAdamized road— U. S. Arsenal, 140 Watervleit— Troy, 141 Lansingburgh — V aterford, 143 The Junction— Cohoes Falls, 144 Van Schaick's Isknd, 145 Shaker Settlement, 146 From Albany to Saratoga Springs. Table of distances, 149 Mohawk and Hudson rail road, 1 50 Buel's Farm, 152 Schenectady, 153 Saratoga and Schenectady rail road, 155 Ballston Lake— Ballston Spa, 157 Saratoga Springs, 162 From Saratoga Springs to the Battle Ground. Saratoga Lake, • ^"^^ Bemus' Heights, • ^"^^ INDEX. IX Schuyler- Ville, i «^ Fort Edward, *'!!!!!!*.'. id From Saratoga Springs to Lake George. Sandy Hill— Glens' Falls, ,gQ Jessups' Falls— Hadley Falls, ist Bloody Pond— Caldwell, \ti Lake George, f°f Fort William Henry, .*!.*..*!*. igl Passage of Lake George, **.'.'.*.*. len Ticonderoga, i .**..*!',.'!.*.'.'.*.*.* .*.'.' * 189 EXCURSION TO NIAGARA FALLS. BY RAIL ROAD AND STAGE. Fro7n Saratoga Springs to Buffalo. Remarks, Table of distances, .....*!!*.*.'.!!!*..'[.*]] Jq^ Schenectady, * *^^ Fort 'ptr::P.'"^^"'^"-^^-'^^"^^^^ •••••• J^^ Little Falls,*. .,.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.,',',', ^ ^^ Petrifactions at Osquake 'creek, *.*.'.' iH Herknner, -^"^ Utica, ; 201 Trenton Falls, ...'.* ^^ New Hartford— Manchester! .*.*.*.*.*; ^?^ Vernon— Oneida Castle— Lenox,. ol? auality Hill-Chitteningo, Hi Manlius, ^/^ 212 JamesviUe— Onondaga Hollow,! '.'.'. ^\l Onondaga Hill— Marcellus,. . ... *'t Skaneateles, *« Auburn— Stat* Prison,'. .'.'.'.'.'.*.'.' lH Cayuga, • ^^5 Seneca Falls,. . . . .*.'.'.'.*.' .* " * ^^"^ Waterloo— Geneva,'. *'.'.'.*'* ^{^ Geneva Lake, . . . ^'^ ' 219 S INDEX. Canandaigua, , 2*2 ! Burning Springs, , . . . . 224 E. & W. Bloomfield— Lima— East Avon, 226 Avon Spring — Caledonia, 227 Leroy — Batavia, 228 Batavia to Buffalo, 229 ERIE CANAL. Description of, 230 Canal passage — Canal route, 233 Table of distances, 234 Albany— Troy — the Junction, 236 Schenectady — Amsterdam, id Schoharrie Creek — Caughnawaga, id Anthony's Nose — Spraker's Basin — Canajoharrie, id Bowman's Creek — Fort Plain, id East Canada Creek — Mohawk Castle, id Little Falls— Herkimer,.. 237 Frankfort — Utica — Wliitesborough, id Oriskany — Rome, 238 New London, 236 Canastota — Chitteningo — Syracuse, 240 Salina, 241 Oswego canal — Geddes — Nine Mile creek,. . .... 243 Camillus — Canton — Jordan — Weed's Fort, id Centre Port — Port Bvron, id Lake Port— Clyde, . Z 244 Palmyra — Fair Port — Fullom's basin, Pittsford, . . 245 Rochester, 246 Carthage, 2H Spencer's basin — Brockport — HoUey — Albion, . . . 252 Medina — Middleport — Lockport, » . 253 Buffalo, 255 Seneca Village, 258 WESTERN LAKES. Lake Superior — Lake Huron — Lake Michigan, . . 259 Michiliinackinac — Detroit, 2G0 Laka Erie, 261 INDEX. . XI From Buffalo to J^iagara Falls. Stage route on the American side, 261 Stage and steam-boat route on the Canada side,. , id Black Rock— Waterloo, 262 Chippewa Battle Cxround, ...... 263 Chippewa Village, 264 Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, 265 Burning Spring — Niagara Falls, 2®7 Canada side, 268 American side, 271 Biddle stair way, 273 Welland canal, 275 Clueenston, battle of, 277 Brock's Monument, 27S Fort George or Newark, 279 Youngstown — Lewiston, id Ridge Road or Alluvial Way, 280 Tuscarora Village — Devil's Hole, 281 Whirlpool — Sulpher Spring — American Fall,. . . . 282 LAKE ONTARIO. Description of, 2S2 Route from JViagara to Montreal. British side, 283 Table of distances, 284 American side — table of distances, 285 Charlotte — Great Sodus Bay — Oswego, 286 Sacket's Harbor, 288 Cape Vincent — Morristown — Ogdensburgh, 289 Rapids of the St. Lawrence, 290 Gallop Islands — St. Regis — Lachine — Montreal,. 291 Excursions — Lachine — Varrennes, 294 Rideau canal , 295 From Montreal to Q^uebec. Description of the route, 301 2* xii INDEX. William Henry— Lake St. Peter, 302 Three Rivers — Richelieu Rapids, 303 Sillery river— Wolfe's Cove— Point Levi — Gtuebec, 304 Plains of Abraham, 314 Montello Towers, 315 Falls of Montmorenci, 316 Lorette, .... 318 Chaudiere Falls, 319 St. Lawrence river below duebec, 320 Saguenay river, 322 Mouth of the St. Lawrence, 324 From duebec to Montreal, id From J\Io7itreal to Whitehall. Table of distances, 325 Chambly — St. Johns — Lake Champlain, 326 Isle aux Noix — Rouse's Point — Plattsburgh, 327 Downie's Monument, 328 Mc Donough's Farm— Port Kent— Adgate's Falls, 330 High Bridge—Burlington, 331 Split Rock— Crown Point, 332 Ticonderoga — Mount Independence, 333 South and East Bays — Whitehall, id CHAMPLAIN CANAL. Description of, 334 Canal route from Whitehall to Mbany. Table of distances, 335 From Whitehall to Albany^ by Statue and Rail Road. Table of distances, 335 Fort Ann — Burgoyne's road, 336 Sandy Hill — Fortville, id Saratoga Springs to Albany, 337 INDEX. xm ROUTES TO BOSTON. Remarks relating to, 337 From Albany to Boston. Table of distances — New Lebanon, 338 Pittsfield — Natural Bridge, 339 Northampton — Farmington and Hampshire canal, 340 Mount Holyoke, 341 Hadley, ^ 342 Regicides, Whalley andj Goffe, id Belchertown — Ware Factory Village — Brookfield, 344 Leicester — Worcester, 345 Black Stone canal— Boston and Worcester rail road, 346 Worcester to Boston, id From Saratoga Springs to Boston. Table of distances— Schuylerville — Union Village, 347 Cambridge — Arlington, id Manchester — Chester— Bellows Falls, 348 Walpole, 349 Keene — Groton — Concord — Lexington, 350 Cambridge, 352 From Whitehall to Boston. Fairhaven — Castleton, 353 Rutland— Chester, 354 From Burlington to Boston, through H^indsor, Vt. Tabble of distances — Montpelier, 355 Randolph — Royalton — Woodstock — Windsor,. . . 356 Windsor to Boston, id From Burlington to Boston, by way of the White Moun- tains and Concord, J^. H. Table of distances — Hanover, (see note) 357 White Mountains, 358 Conway — Faysburgh , 365 xiv INDEX. From C 0711V ay to Concord. Centre Harbor— Red Mountain, 366 Squam Lake — Concord, 367 Frciu Concord to Boston. Nashua — ^Lowell, 38S Boston and Lowell rail road, 271 Boston, id Mount Auburn — Cluincy, 379 Dorchester, 3S0 Brighton — Watertown — Cambridge, 381 Charlestown, id Ursuline Convent — Breed's Hill, 382 Bunker Hill Monument — Fort Independence, .... 386 JNTahant, 387 Forts around Boston erected during the revolution, 390 From Boston to Portland. Table of distances — ^Lynn — Salem, 397 Newburyport — Portsmouth, 398 Portland, 399 From Portland to Q,iiebec. Remarks relative to the route, 401 Table of distances — North Yarmouth — Freeport, id BrunsAvick, id BoAA dointown — ^Hallowell, ^ . . . 402 Augusta — Sidney, id Waterville — Bloorafield — Norridgevt'ork, 403 Remainder of the route to Cluebec, id From Portland to Eastport. Table of distances, 403 Bath — Wiscasset — New Castle — VValdoboro',. . . . 404 Warren — Thomastown — Camden — Belfast, 405 Buckstown — Penobscot — Castine, id Machias — Eastport, 406 Robiiistown,. 407 INDEX. XT From Boston to J^eio-York. Remarks relating to and directions, 407 From Boston to Providence. Remarks and directions — Table of distances, 408 Dedham, id Walpole — Pavvtucket — Providence, 409 Biackstone Canal, id From Providence to J^excport. Bristol— Newport, 412 Fort Green— Mount Hope— King Philip, 414 From Providence to Mew- London. Remarks — Centerville — West Greenwich, 418 Hopkinton — Stonington, 419 New-London, 420 Steamboat and stages, 422 From Jstew-London to J^onvich, by steam-boat. Thames river, 422 Mohegan — Trading Cove — Norwich, 423 From J^onoich to Hartford. Table of distances— East Hartford— Hartford, .... 425 Steam boats and stages from Hartford, 428 From Hartford to Meio-Haven. Table of distances— Wethcrsfield— Rock Hill,. . . 429 MiddletoAvn— Military Academy, 430 Natural Ice Houses, 431 Haddam — Saybrook, (see note.) id New-Haven— Public Square, 432 Yale College, 433 New burying ground — Tontine Cotlee House,. . , 434 V\'est Rock, , , id XVI INDEX. East Rock — Farmington Canal, 435 Steam boats from New-Haven to New- York,. . . . 436 Stages from New-Haven, id Route from J^eiv-Haven to J^eio-York. Table of distances — Sketch of the route, (see note. ) 436 Bridgeport — Fairfield — Norwalk, id West Chester County — Horseneck — Harlaem,. . , 437 From Jfeio-Haven to Litchfield. Stages — Waterbury — West Rock, 437 Watertown— Litchfield— Mount Tom, 433 Great Pond— Chalybeate Spring— Mount Prospect, id From Litchfield to Albany. Stages and intervening places, 439 From Litchfield to Hartford. Harwinton — Burlington — Farmington, 439 Hartford, 440 Route up the Valley of the Connecticut river. Windsor— Enfield, 440 Suffield, 44 1 West Sprinirfield — Springfield, 442 South Hadley Falls, 443 Northampton — Hadley — Hatfield, 444 Muddy Brook, 445 Deerfield, ; . 446 Greenfield— Turner's Falls, 448 Bernardstown — Vernon, 449 Guilford — Brattleborough — Dummerston, 450 Putney — Westminster — Walpole — Bellows Falls, id Charlestown, id Springfield, 451 Weathersfield, — Windsor — Hartland, 452 Hartford — Hanover, id The oppressive heat of summer in the sourthcrn sec- tions of the the United States, and the consequent ex- posure to illness, have long induced the wealthy part of the population to seek, at that season of the year, the more salubrious climate of the north. But the recent gigantic internal improvements in the northern and middle states, and the developement of new and highly interesting natural scenery, together with the increased facilities for travelling, have greatly augmented the number of tourists within a short period. The rail roads, canals, coal mines, the Springs, the Falls, the Lakes, the fortifications of duebec, the sublime moun- tain scenery in New-York and New-England, with the various attractions presented in the large commercial cities, cannot fail of insuring to a traveller a rich com- pensation for the toils incident to a journey. This work is designed as a pocket manual and guide to travellers visiting these places. Our limits forbid that we should indulge in elaborate descriptions or mi- nute geographical and statistical details. We have therefore confined ourselves to subjects of more imme- diate interest to the tourist ; directing him in his course, and pointing out, as he passes, objects which most de- serve his notice and regard. The Guide, it will be perceived, commences at Savan- nah, in Georgia, though a rapid glance of the country '- merely is taken until reaching Washington City. The XVIU INTRODUCTION- travelling from south to north being more generally by water than otherwise, a minute description of the coun- try between Savannah and "Washington would be un- interesting and unimportant to a great proportion of the readers of these pages. We therefore briefly notice some of the prominent cities and tov.-ns, and pass on to those sections embraced within what has been usual- ly denominated the Fashionable or Northern Tour. THE TRAVELLER'S GUIDE, Savannah, the principal city in the state of Georgia, is located on the south-west bank of the Savannah riv- er, about 17 miles from the bar at its mouth. The city is built on elevated ground, and exhibits a beautiful ap- pearance from the water ; its tall spires and other pub- lic buildings, with the groves of trees planted along its streets, giving it an air of peculiar fascination. The streets are wide and regularly laid out, and the build- ings, together with the public squares, of which there are ten, exhibit much taste and elegance. Of the pub- lic buildings, the city contains a court house, jail, hos- pital, theatre, exchange, a public library, 3 banks, and 10 churches. The Presbyterian church is an elegant and spacious edifice of stone. The Exchange is a large building, 5 stories high. The academy, partly of brick, and partly of stone, is 180 feet front, 60 feet wide, and 3 stories high. Savannah is by far the most important commercial town in Georgia, and is the great mart of the cotton planters for an extensive and well settled re- gion of country. Steam boats ply regularly between Savannah and Charleston, distance 110 miles, as fol- lows : 20 FROM SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON, Miles. Tybee Sound, 12 Port Republican,. .. . 25 Beaufort, 10 South Edisto, 18 Miles. North Edisto Sound,. 10 Light House, 25 Charleston Bar, 3 Charleston, 7 By land, the distance between the two cities is 118 miles, as follows : Miles. From Savannah to Beck's Ferry, on the Savannah r... . 25 Fitch's Eclian road,. . 1 9 Coosauhatchie, 4 Pocotaligo, 6 Saltketcher Church,. 7 Miles. Thompson's Tavern,. 9 Poii4)on P. Office,.... 11 Jackson Borough,. ... 3 Hick's Tavern, 10 Green's Tavern, 10 Ashley Rivcr,. 8 Charleston, 6 On this route, the tourist crosses the Savannah river which is navigable for steam boats to Augusta, 10.5 miles above Savannah having its rise 1 50 miles north- west of the former place ; The Coosauhatchie river, which rises 47 miles north- west of the village of that name, and falls into the Coo- saw river, 6 miles south-east ; The Cambahee river, which rises 75 miles north-west of Saltketcher, and falls into St. Helena Sound, 18 miles south-east from that place ; The Edisto river, which rises 90 miles north-west of Jacksonboro', and falls into the Atlantic ocean 20 miles south-east ; and The Ashley river, which rises about 40 miles north- west of Charleston. This route is interspersed with rice and cotton plan- tations, and several handsome country seats of the op- CIIARLESTCX. 21 viient ovners of ihe soil. In the spring, the whole face of the country assumes a richness of verdure highly pic- turesque and romantic ; which, however, becomes dried and withered during the buriving heat of a summer's sun. CHARLESTON, The metropolis of South Carolina, is alike distin- guished for the opulence and hospitality of its inhabi- tants. On entering the city from the bay, an interest- ing prospect is presented. The glittering spires of its public edifices are well calculated to give animation to the scene. Some of its streets are extremely beautiful, and many of the houses are truly elegant. Orange trees, in the early part of the season, laden with fruit, and peech trees clothed with blossoms, meet the eye of the traveller, and united with the climate of the coun- try at that time, render Charleston one of the most at-- tractive cities in the union. The society is refined, in- telligent, frank and affable. The city was founded and made the seat of govern- ment of the state in 1680. It stands on a dead level with the sea, two noble rivers, the Ashley and the Cooper, enclosing it on a wide peninsula called the Neck. Most of the houses contain a piazza, extending from the ground to the top, giving to the rooms in each story a shady open walk. Except in the commercial parts of the town, the houses, which are mostly paint- ed white, are generally surrounded with gardens, trees and shrubbery, giving to them a pecuharly romantie and rich appearance. 12 CHARLESTON, The most celebrated edifices of this city, are the Or- phan Asylum and the Circular Church. The for- mer is one of the best institutions of the kind in the Uni- ted States. It maintains and educates 130 orphan chil- dren, and is highly honorable to the characteristic hu- manity and benevolence of the place, and a happy illus- tration of the tone of public feeling. The other pubhc buildings are 10 or 12 in number, exclusive of about 20 churches. The city library is one of the beat in the union, and contains nearly 14,000 volumes. A rail road from Charleston to Hamburgh, on the Savannah river, opposite Augusta, 135 miles, was fin- ished in 1833. The charter was granted in January, 1828, and the books openened in the following March ; but a small portion only of the stock was taken, yet the company was organized, and proceeded to collect such facts as would shed light upon the undertaking. In the winter of 1828, '29, an experimental line of survey was executed, and in the winter of 1829, '30, the route was explored by Mr. Horatio Allen ; in the mean time a section of three or four miles was constructed and put into operation ; doubts and fears were in a measure dispelled, and by great exertion the subscription to the etock was increased to $600,000, in August, 1830, when the afiairs of the company assumed a promis- ing aspect, and the work progressed rapidly to a con- summation. In the construction of this road wood alone is used, with the exception of a flat bar of iron on the surface. Piles are driven into the earth on each side of the path, on the top of which and at right angles with the path, a sleeper is placed ; the rail of wood, six by ten inches square, is fastened ta SULLIVAN'S ISLAND. 23 tion, and very liable to decay ; it. however answers present purposes, and will enable the company to re- build tlie road at a future period, of more permanent materials, and at a much less expense. Steam car- riages are alone used on the road. This communica- tion with the interior will prove of great importance to the city as well as country, and the receipts, it is be- lieved, will give a fair dividend to the stockholders. Sullivan's Island, v/hich lays at the distance of 7 miles from the city, at the entrance of the harbor, is a spot consecrated as the theatre of important events during the revolution. On this island is Fort Moultrie, rendered glorious by the unyielding des- peration with which it sustained the attack of the Brit- ish fleet in the war of our independence. The fleet consisted of about fifty sail ; and on the first annuncia- tion of its approach, lay v/ithin six leagues of the island. It was a time of awful and anxious suspense to the garrison in the fort, and to the inhabitants of the city. The public mind had become deeply impressed with ideas of Enghsh valor ; and diffident of its own pow- er, looked with painful anxiety towards the issue of the coming contest. About this period a proclamation reached the shore, under the sanction of a flag, in which the British com- mander, Sir Henry Clinton, held out the promise of pardon to all who would resign their arms and co-ope- rate in the rc-establishment of loyalty. But the royal proposition met with the rejection which it deserved. The militia of the adjacent country crowded the streets the sleepers. This is a very cheap mode of construe- b2 24 EUI.LIVAN's iSLANt). of Charlsston ; the citizens threw down their imple'* ments of industry and grasped their arms in defence of their native city. On the 28th of June, 1776, Fort Moultrie was attacked by about ten ships, frigates and sloops, and was defended in a manner that w^ould have honored the heroic veterans of Greece or Rome. During this engagement, the inhabitants stood at their respective posts, prepared to meet the advancing foe* They had determined to grapple with the enemy as he landed, and surrender their liberty only with their lives. But so manfully did the garrison withstand the conflict, that the fleet was compelled to withdraw, leav- ing the inhabitants in the unmolested enjoyment of their rights. The influence of this expedition was most auspicious to the cause of American liberty. It strengthened the trembling hopes and dispersed the fears of the inhabi- tants. They had seen the result of this attempt, and now felt the triumphant assurance that the sacred cause in which they had enlisted would eventually suc- ceed. The communication between Charleston and New* York is rendered frequent by convenient and com- modious steam and other packets that ply from one place to the other. A journey by land, until reaching Norfolk, is tedious and uninteresting ; the public inns, except in the large towns, are generally poor, and a Voyage by water is the uniform choice of the fashiona- ble and genteel portion of the community. The distance by vv^ater from Charleston to New- York is G70 miles, and the intermediate distances arc as follows : FROM CHARLESTOK tO NORtOLK. S5 Miles. Off Cape Fear, 120 Cape Look Out,. 75 Cape Hatteras, . . 78 Capes of Virginia, 140 Cape May, 120 Miles, Off Barnegat Inlet,., 70 The Bar, 45 Sandy Hook, 3 The Narrows, 11 New-York, 8 FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK, by the coast, Is 419 miles, and the intermediate distances are as follows : Miles. By land. Greenwich, 4 Wapetan Church, .... 15 Tweeden Cottons,. .. . 17 Santee R., S. Branch,. 10 N. Branch, 2 Georgetown, 14 On the Sands, 20 Varenes, N. C 13 Smithville, 26 Brunswick, 12 Wilmington, 18 Hermitage, 6 S. Washington, 24 Rhode's, 24 The Santee, passed on this route, is the principal riv- er in South Carolina. It is formed by a union of the Congaree and Wateree about 25 miles south east of Columbia, and falls into the ocean by two mouths about 12 miles south-east from where it is crossed. A canal 22 miles long, connects the Santee with Cooper river, through which large quantities of produce are annually conveyed to Charleston. Miles. Trenton 11 Newbern, 20 VN^ashing ton, 35 Plymouth, 35 Mouth of Roanoke R. 8 By steam boat. Wade's Point, Albe- marle Sound, 45 Elizabeth City, 17 By land. Pasquotank River, ... 12 N. Carolina state line, 10 Portsmouth, 20 Norfolk, 1 26 FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK^ Georgetown, the capital of the district of that name, is located on Winyaw bay, near the mouth of the Pe- dee river, and 13 miles from the ocean. It contains a population of between 2 and 3000 inhabitants, and is a place of very considerable trade. Wilmington, N. C. is the capital of New-Hanover county. It is situated on the north east side of Cape Fear river, just below a union of its branches, to which place the river is navigable for vessels. The town con- tains a court house, jail, academy, 2 banks, 2 churches, and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants ; and is the great- est shipping port in the state. It was visited by a conflagration in 1819, by which 200 buildings, val- ued at $1,000,000, were destroyed ; and by another in 1828, in which 50 buildings were burned, valued at $130,000. Newbern is situated on the south side of Neuse riv- er, 30 miles from Pamlico Sound. It is the largest town in North Carolina, containing a population of nearly 4000 inhabitants. There are in this place a court house, jail, theatre, 2 banks and 3 churches. Washington is located on the north side of the Pam- lico river, and contains a population of about 1200 in- habitants. Plymouth, the capital of Washington county, is sit- uate on the north side of the Roanoke river, and 5 miles from Albemarle Sound. The Roanoke river rises in the state of Virginia, pur- suing a crooked course to Albemarle Sound, into which FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 27 it empties by several channels, 230 miles from its source. It is navigable about 30 miles for vessels of considerable burtiien, and for boats, 70 miles. The banks are fertile and well settled. Mbemarle Sound is in the north-east part of North Carolina, on the coast. It extends from east to vilest 62 miles, and is from 4 to 15 miles v^'ide. It is con- nected with Pamlico Sound by several narrow inlets, and with the Chesapeake Bay by a canal through the Dismal Swamp. A steam boat is taken at the mouth of the Roanoke across the Albemarle Sound to Elizabeth City, the capital of Pasquotank county, N. C. The town is located on the bank of the Pas* quotank river, which has its source in the Dismal Swamp. It contains a court house, jail and 4 church- es. From Elizabeth City the road to Norfolk lies on the bank of the canal, 23 miles long, cut through the Dismal Swamp. This swamp is a track of marshy land, generally covered with pine, juniper and cypress trees. It is 30 miles long from north to south, and 10 broad. In the centre is Drummond's Pond, 15 miles in circumference. , i ^Tple Canal, through this swamp, proves of immense advantage to the eastern section of North Carolina. Formerly their coasting trade was through the Ockra- cock inlet, by the tedious, hazardous and expensive sea route ; but the canal forms an easy, safe and cheap means of conveyance, and affords more extensive mar- kets. Near tbe centre of its extreme points is the junc- 28 KORFOLK. tion of what is called the North West Canal, which is six miles long, and connects North West River (which empties into Currituck Sound in North Carolina) with the main canal, opening an avenue to market for the vast stores of timber in that section suitable for naval purposes, besides the various other products of the counti-y. On the main canal, the basin at Deep Creek is a beautiful sheet of water, half a mile long, and 1 5 feet above tide water. The lockage is 40 feet ; and the locks, which are stone, are of the best workmanship. Portsmouth is pleasantly located on the south west side of Elizabeth river, opposite Norfolk. It contains a court-house, jail and 4 churches, and between 2 and SOOO inhabitants. Norfolk, the commercial capital of Virginia, is situ- ated on the east side of Elizabeth river, immediately be- low the junction of its two main branches, and eight miles above Hampton roads, and had a population, in 1830, of 9,800. The town lies low, and is in some pla- ces marshy, though the principal streets are well paved. Among the public buildings are a theatre, 3 banks, an academy, marine hospital, atheneum, and 6 churches. The harbor, which is capacious and safe, is defined by several forts. One is on Craney island, near the mouth of Elizabeth river. There are also fortifications**at Hampton roads ; the principal of which. Fort Calhoun, is not yet completed. The J^avy Yard at Cosport, on the bank of the Eliza- beth river, nearly opposite Norfolk, is deserving the at- tention of strangers. A superb dock has been con- structed at this place, similar to that at Charlestownj PROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON. 29 near Boston. The length of the bottom, from the inner or foremost block, to that which is nearest the gates, is 206 feet, besides 50 feet of spare room — sufficient to hold a small vessel. The width of the dock, at the top, is 86 feet. As the tide rises and falls but 3 or 4 feet, the water is pumped out^ when necessary, by steam engines. From Norfolk to Washington city or Baltimore, the routes are usually performed by steam-boats. The in- termediate distances are as follows : FROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON, 195 miles,* Miles. Mouth of Ehzabeth river, 9 Mouth of James river, 6 Mouth of York river, Old Point Comfort, 20 New Point Comfort, 10 Rippahannock river,. 15 Miles, Off Outlet St. Mary's river, 42 Off Port Tobacco, ... 38 Mouth of Potomac riv- er, 15 Mount Vernon, 25 Alexandria, 9 Washington, 6 * The route is down the Elizabeth river till it enters the Chesapeake Bay — thence up the bay to the mouth of the Potomac, which is entered, the boat proceeding up the river, and passing Mount Vernon and Alexan- dria, noticed at pages 38, 39. 30 FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND. FROM NORFOLK TO BALTIMORE, 191 miles. Miles. To the mouth of the Rappahannock, as in the precedinfj ta- ble, ^... 60 Smith's Point, 25 Outlet of Potomac, . . 10 Outlet of Pautuxent river, 18 JSIiles. Cone Point, 5 Sharp's Island, 15 Three Sisters, 16 Annapolis, 10 Sandy Point, 6 Mouth of the Pataps- co river, 11 Baltimore,* 15 The Chesapeake Bay, the principal water commu- nication on the foregoing routes, stretches in a direction nearly north from the mouth of James river, or Lynha- ven Bay, to the mouth of the Susquehannah river, near the north hne of Maryland. It is 180 miles long, and varies from 10 to 25 miles in breadth, dividing the states of Virginia and Maryland into two parts, called the eastern and western shores. It has numerous com- modious harbors, and affords a safe navigation. Among the waters which flow into it, (commencing north,) are the Susquehannah, Potomac, Rappahannock, York and James rivers. It has been estimated that the Ches- apeake Bay, including its minor bays and inlets, con- tains an aggregate of 3600 square miles. FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND, The usual route is by water up the James river ; on which steam-boats are constantly plying between the two places. We, however, give the routes by land and v,'ater, with the intermediate distances : * See page 48. JAMESTOWN. 31 By water — 122 miles. JMiles. Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 Day's Point, JO Hog Island......... 16 Swan's Point, 9 Chickahomany r 4 Fort Powhattan,. . . . 21 Eppe's Island 17 Chesterfield, ••'••••.. 23 Richmond, 13 By land — 110 miles. Miles. Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 Cross Hampton Roads to Hampton, 8 Half-way House, 11 York, 10 Williamsburgh, 12 Chiswell, _. 14 Cumberland, 16 Chickahomany river,.. 15 Richmond, , 14 Williamsburgh, 50 miles from Norfolk, is situated between York and James rivers, and was formerly the metropolis of the state. Its streets are regularly laid out, and many of the buildings are handsome. Wil- liam and Mary's College, located in this place, was founded in 1691, and was liberally endowed at that time by the reigning king and queen of England. It has a library of between 3 and 4000 volumes, and a val- uable philosophical apparatus. Jamestown, between 50 and 60 miles below Rich- mond, on the north side of James river, was founded in 1608, and was the first EngUsh settlement in the United States. The scite is a very beautiful one, and the settlement itself must have been but a few steps from the river. On each side there is a delightful and variegated succession of woodlands, meadoAvs, pas- tures, and green fields ; in front, appears the broad ex- panse of James river, with its multitude of white, glid- ing sails. The opposite hills are picturesque : some are entirely covered with woods ; others, partly clear- c 32 JAMESTOWN. ed, presenting, in tlie proper season, patches of white, wavy corn. To increase the richness of this scenery, here and there are distinguished the old and elegant mansions of the Virginia planters, hke points of beauty in a fine picture. No vestige of Jamestown is now to be seen, except the ruins of a church steeple, about 30 feet high, and fringed to its summit with running ivy. Near by is a burying ground with its venerable tombstones, and spotted with dark green shi-ubbery and melancholy flowers. It looks like a lonely, unfrequented place, and there is something deeply interesting in contem- plating these vestiges of an age gone by. In this scene of silence and solitude, the rude fore- fathers of the hamlet have, forages, rested. Nothing at this day remains but the land they cultivated, and the graves in which they repose ; but the places are well known, and with increasing years will grow more venerable and illustrious. The celebrated Pochahontas (daughter of the Indian chief Powhatan) was the tutelary guardian of this set- tlement ; and some of her descendants are now living in Virginia. iJtAmong the most distinguished, is the Hon. John Randolph. His descent is thus given in a Virginia paper : "Pochahontas was afterwards in London, in compa- ny with her husband, whose name was Rolf, an Eng- lishman by birth. She was presented to the King and Clueen, by Lady Delaware and her husband. She was present at several masquerades and assemblies, all which sights gave her great gratification. Soon after- wards, having embarked on board the ship George, RICHMOND. 33 from London, for Virginia, she fell sick and died at Gravesend. " Her young child, Thomas Rolf, was left at Plym- outh, under the care of Sir Thomas Stukely, who de- sired to keep it. Pochahontas died in 1617, aged 23. Thomas Rolf, her son, afterwards became a citizen of Virginia. He left at his death a daughter ; this daugh- ter married Col. Robert Boiling, by whom she left an only son and five daughters, who were married respec- tively to Col, Richard Randolph, Col, John Fleming, Doct. William Gray, Mr. Thomas Eldridge, and Mr. James Murray. "The noble blood of Pochahontas flows in many veins ; and the late Orator of Roanoke, John Randolph, used to claim a descent from the daughter of Powhatan." I Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is situated on the '■ north bank of James river, directly at its lovv^er falls, at the head of tide water, and 150 miles from its mouth. The town rises in an acclivity from the water, and pre- sents a beautiful and highly picturesque appearance. A part of the town, on what is called Schockoe hill, overlooks the low^er part ; and from the capitol, which is on the greatest eminence, a most delightful prospect is had of the river and adjacent country. Besides the capitol, which is a handsome edifice, the city contains an elegant court house, a state prison, (which cost ,$135,000) an alms house, 2 markets, a museum, an academy of fine arts, a female orphan asylum, 3 banks and 8 churches ; one of wdiich, built on the ruins of the ti theatre in the conflagration of which 90 citizens perish- ' ed, is very beautiful. At the Virginia armory, which is 34 MON'TICELLO. erected here, are manufactured between 4 and 5000 muskets and rifles annually. The population of the city in 1830, v/as 18,035. Manchester, directly opposite, is connected with Richmond by two substantial bridges, and is a flour- ishing place. . Among the many objects of attraction in Virginia, are Monticello, the former residence of ex-president JeflTerson, the Warm and Hot Springs, the Natural Bridge, and the Berkley Springs. Frmn Richmond to Monticello, the distance is 80 miles, in a north-westerly direction ; the road passing Gooch- land county line, distant 20 miles ; Fluvanna county line, 33; Gordonsville, 12; Milton, on the Rivanna river, 12; Monticello, 3. Monticello was much resorted to during the life time of its sage and philosopher ; and since his de- cease, the consecrated spot of his interment is a place of frequent visitation. It is thus described by a late traveller : m "I ascended the vvdnding road which leads from Charlottesville to Monticello. The path leads a cir- cuitous ascent of about 2 miles up the miniature moun- tain, on which stand the mansion, the farm, and the grave of Jefi:erson. On entering the gate which opens into the enclosure, numerous paths diverge in various directions, winding through beautiful groves to the summit of the hifl. From the peak on which the house stands, a grand and neaily illuminated view opens, of the thickly wooded hills nnd fertile vallies, which MONTICELLO. 35 stretch out on either side. The University, with its dome, porticoes, and colonades, looks hke a fair city in the plain ; Charlottesville seems te be directly beneath. Ho spot can be imagined as combining greater advan- tages of grandeur, healthfulness and seclusion. The house is noble in its appearance ; two large columns support a portico, which extends from the wings, and into it the front door opens. The apartments are neat- ly furnished and embellished with statues, busts, por- traits and natural curiosities. The grounds and out houses have been neglected ; Mr. Jefferson's attention being absorbed from such personal concerns, by the cares attendant on the superintendence of the Univer- sity, which, when in health, he visited daily since its erection commenced. "At a short distance behind the mansion, in a quiet, shaded spot, the visitor sees a square enclosure, sur- rounded by a low unmortared stone wall, which he en- ters by a neat wooden gate. This is the family burial ground, containing 10 or 15 graves, none of them marked by epitaphs, and only a few distinguished by any memorial. On one side of this simple cemetry, is the resting place of the Patriot and Philosopher. When I saw it, the vault was just arched, and in readiness for the plain stone which is to cover it. May it ever con- tinue like V/ashington's, without any adventitious at- tractions or conspicuousness ; for, when we or our pos- terity need any other memento of our debt of honor to those names, than their simpte inscription on paper, w^ood or stone, gorgeous tombs would be a mockery to their memories. When gratitude shall cease to con- c2 ZsC) KATURAL Bn!0fi£. Becrate their remembrance in the hearts of our citi- zens, no cenotaph will inspire the reverence we owe to them." From Monticello to the Warm Springs, is 91 miles, in a westerly direction, passing through Charlottesville 2 miles, Rockfish Gap 24, Waynesboro' 2, Staunton 12, Cloverdale 28, Green Valley 10 ; from whence to the V/arm Springs is 13 miles. The temperature of these springs is about 96o, and sufficient water issues from them to turn a mill. They are used for bathing, and are esteemed valuable in rheumatic complaints. The Bath or Hot Spring is 5 miles farther. The stream is small ; but the temperature is much greater than that of the Warm Springs, being 112®. These springs flow into the Jackson, a source of the James river. The Natural Bridge is 150 miles west of Rich- mond, and by diverging to the left, without visiting Monticello, may be taken in the route to the Warm Springs. This bridge is over Cedar creek, in Rock- bridge county, 12 miles south west of Lexington, and is justly considered one of the greatest natural curiosi- ties in the world. The river at this place runs through a chasm in a hill. The chasm is 90 feet wide at the top, 200 feet deep, and the sides almost perpendicular. The bridge is formed by a huge rock thrown completely across this chasm at the top. The rock forming the bridge is 60 feet broad in the middle, and is covered with earth and trees. It forms a sublime spectacle FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON. 37 Vvhen examined from the margin of the river be- neath.* FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON CITY, 120 miles. A stage is generally taken at Richmond for the mouth f fashionable resort from New-York, in the summer months, owing to its cool, airy and healthful situation, and to the extensive prospect afforded from its top ; on •which there is an excellent public house. Within a mile of its summit there are mineral springs, which are usually resorted to by visitants at the mountain house. Newark, N. J. which is located on the route, and which is within 10 miles of N. York, is one of the most elegant villages in the union. It is situated near the west bank of the Passaic river, 3 miles from its mouth, and is laid out in regular streets, the principal being 200 feet wide. The public square, near the centre, is very handsome, and is surrounded by a number of ele-:. gant private dwellings. The public buildings in the 9f FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. place are a court house, jail, two banks, an academy and six churches. The population in 1830 was 10,705. Having thus far diverged from the usual route to the north, for the purpose of describing the coal region, and the most interesting natural and artificial objects con- nected therewith, we return to Philadelphia, to resume the regular excursion. FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- YORK. The routes and modes of conveyance being various, we give a sketch of each, that the traveller may make such selection as shall be most agreeable. Steam Boat and Rail Road rente. Since the completion of the Camden and Amboy rail road from Bordentown to Amboy, the traveller will find this a very easy, elegant and expeditious route. The distance from Philadelphia to New- York is 85 miles, and the intermediate distances as follows : By steam boat. Miles. From Philadelphia to Burlington, N. J. . . 18 Bristol, Penn 1 Bordentown, N. J. . . 9 By rail road. Miles. Hightstown, 14 Amboy, 20 By steam boat. New-York, 23 BuRLiNGTOX, the capital of the county of the same name, is 12 miles below Trenton and 18 above Pliila- delphia. It is delightfully situated, and contains some handsome public and private houses. Bristol is one mile father, on the opposite side of the Delaware, in Bucks county, Pennsylvania. This place contains several fine residences, and is an attrac- CAMDEX AND AMBOT R.\IL ROaD. 93 tive and interesting country village. Some of its flow- er gardens, which are unusually elegant, and located on the margin of the river, add much to the beauty of its appearance. BoRDENTOWN', 9 miles farther, and six belov/ Tren- ton, is noted as the late residence of the Count de Sur- villiers, the ex-king of Spain, whose elegant mansion was within a few years burnt by accident, but is now rebuilt with additional embelUshment and magnifi- cence. His villa commands a fine view of the river. The soil around it is unproductive ; but by the aid of culture and art, his residence now exhibits an appear- ance of taste and munificence worthy the princely for- tune and dignity of its proprietor. At Bordentown, the Camdem and Amboy Rail Road is taken, which is finished to South Amboy; from whence a steam boat is again taken, which lands passengers at New- York. The charter of this road was granted by the legislature of New- Jersey in 1830, and the travel betv/een Bordentown and Amboy com- menced in 1832. Camden, the south-western point at which the road is to terminate, is a small village on the Delaware, opposite Philadelphia, 27 miles below Bor- dentown, where the river is about one mile in breadth. South Amboy is seated at the head of the Raritan Bay, 61 miles and ten chains from Camden, as measured by the course of the rail road ; and is about 23 miles from the city of New- York, (by water,) making the whole distance from Camden to New- York rather less than 85 miles. 94 STEAM BOAT AND STAGE ROUTE, South Amboy, where the road terminates at the eas- tern end, is one of the finest harbors in the United States, accessible at all seasons for the largest vessels from the sea and from New- York ; so that the commu- nication with Philadelphia and foreign countries by this route will be uninterrupted. Possessing, too, great ad- vantages for a port of entry and departure, during the winter months, and having added to it the facihties for transportation of the cargoes of merchant traders by the rail road, it must become an important point for the mercantile operations of Philadelphia, independently of the advantages of its nearer connection with N. York, A single track, with occasional turnouts, has thus far only been made ; but the workmanship and mate- rials are of the best and most durable kind. Entire iron rails are used, which rest on stone blocks and sleepers. The carriages are elegant, and among the best which have been constructed ; and a trip across the road will be ranked among the novelties and pleasures of a north- ern tour. Steam Boat and Stage Route — 97 miles. TABLE OF DISTANCES. Miles. By Steam boat. From Philadelphia to Burlington, N. J... 13 Bristol, Penn 1 Bordentown, N. J.... 9 Trenton 7 Miles. By stage. Princeton, H Kingston, 3 New-Brunswick,.... 12 By steam boat. Perth Amboy, 13 Elizabethtown Point, 13 Nevv'-York 10 TRBNTO!*. 95 Burlington, Bristol and Borden town', have al« ready been noticed at pages 92 and 93. Trenton, the capital of the state of New- Jersey, is situated on the Delaware river, 35 miles from Philadel- phia. It contains about 6000 inhabitants, a state house, two banks, and six houses of public worship. At Tren- ton the steam-boat navigation on the Delaware ter- minates. The river here forms a considerable rapid or falls, near which is an elevated bridge, about a quarter of a mile long, neatly roofed, and the sides enclosed to secure it from the weather. The distance between Trenton and New-Brunswick is passed by an excel- lent line of post coaches, which leave the former place immediately on the arrival of the boat. This route af- fords the traveller a fine view of the most fertile section of the state; and, making all allowances for roadsj which are ordinary, it is, in other respects, by no means devoid of interest. It was in this section of Nev/- Jersey, and at tho gloomiest period of the contest, that some of the most important scenes of the revolution, and those which gave point and character to the American war, transpired. It was for a length of time in the pos- session of the English, and was the theatre of much carnage and bloodshed. The capture of a detachment of English and German troops in December, 1776, at Trenton, was the first signal victory that crowned our arms in the revolutionary contest. It cheered the droop- ing and depressed spirits of our little army, and impart- ed new vigor to the cause of liberty. The retreat of h2 96 PRINCETON. Washington with his troops from Trenton, considering" the circumstances which surrounded him, and the se- crecy with which it was accomphshed, may be justly considered as one of the most successful movements of that eventful period.* Princeton is located on an elevated piece of land 11 miles from Trenton, 15 from New-Brunswick, 46 from Philadelphia, and 51 from New- York, It over- looks an extensive prospect, and is a very handsome village. It contains a college, [theological seminary, a presbyterian church, and about 100 dwelhng houses. The college of New- Jersey was founded in 1738. It has a president, 3 professors, and 2 tutors. The theological seminary was established in 1812, by the general assembly of the presbyterian church. It has 3 professors, a respectable library, and upwards- of 100 students. In the college yard are the remains of the presidents of the institution. Burr, Edwards, Davis, Finley, With- erspoon and Smith. New-Brunswick is the starting place for the New- York steam-boats. In this village is the thcologial seminary, under the direction of the synod of the Dutch * A rail road is now constructing between this place and Philadelphia, which will probably be completed the present season (1834.) PERTH AMBOY — ^KEW-YOR«. 97 reformed church. The village also contains a court house, gaol, a college edifice, and five churches,* Perth Ambot is 13 miles from New-Brunswick, 23 south-west of New-York, and 74 north-east of Phila- delphia. Its harbor is one of the best on the continent. Elizabethtown, 13 miles farther in a south-west- erly direction from New- York, is pleasantly situa- ted on a creek emptying into Staten Island Sound. A steam-boat plies between the point and New- York. Staten Island, constituting the county of Rich- mond, is 14 miles long and 8 wide. It was the resi- dence of the late vice-president Tompkins, and con- tains several delightful country seats. The price of fare from Philadelphia to New-York is from $3 to $3,50, and the route is usually performed in from 9 to 12 hours. On approaching New- York, the most prominent ob- jects that meet the eye, are Fort La Fayette, Castle Y/illiams, the lofty spires of Trinity and St. Paul's churches, and the Catholic cathedral. NEW-YORK. This city is situated on the point of York Island, at the confluence of the Hudson and East rivers, in. lati- tude 40. It was founded by the Dutch, in 1615, under * A rail road is now constructing from this place through Newark to Jersey City, opposite New- York, and a similar road is also to be constructed between New-Brunswick and Trenton. S8 NEW-TORK- the name of New-Amsterdam, and was incorporated by the British in 1696. The island on which it stands is 15 miles long, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. The city is situated on the south part of the island, and extends along the Hudson about 2 miles, and from the Battery along East river nearly 4 miles. The early settlements were commenced at and near the Battery, from which streets were extended without reference to order or regularity ; and this accounts for the seeming want of taste in laying out the streets towards the docks and harbor. The Battery is situated at the south-west point of the city, opposite to Governor's island. It is hand- somely laid out into gravel walks, and tastefully deco- rated with shrubbery and trees. It is much frequent- ed by the citizens in the warm season, as well for the purpose of partaking of the refreshing sea breeze, as for enjoying the prospect, which, from this place, in- cludes the harbor with its various shipping. Governor's island, Bedlow's island, and Ellis' island, on each of which are military stations, the shores of New-Jersey and Long Island, with the flourishing town of Brook- lyn, and the numerous country seats in its vicinity. Castle Garden, connected with the battery by a bridge, is much frequented during the summer even- ings. It has a fine promenade, and is often rendered attractive by a display of fire works from its enclosure, and other amusements. Broadway, the most splendid street in the city, runs . through the centre and extends 3 miles in length and about 80 feet in width. It is the great and fashionable NEW-YORK. 9^ resort for citizens and strangers, and is much crowded during pleasant weather. In this avenue are Grace, Trinity and St. Paul's churches, the Adeiphi Hotel? Mansion House,~City Hotel, National Hotel, Congress Hall, Franklin House, American Hotel, Washington Hall, Masonic Hall, and a variety of shops with ele- gant and extensive assortments of merchandize of eve- ry description. Opposite Trinity church. Wall-street opens, which contains the Exchange, most of the banks, together with the principal part of the brokers' and insurance of- fices. On passing up Broadway still farther, is Cedar and Courtlandt streets, both of which lead to the Hudson river, where the steam-boats start for Albany, New- port, Providence and Boston. At thefootofCourtlandt- streetls the ferry to Jersey city. A little further up is Fulton-street, on the corner of wdiich and Broadway stands St. Paul's church. Fulton-street leads to the East river ; along the docks of which are the steam- boats for Bridgeport, Saybrook, Hartford, New-Lon- don, Norwich and New-Haven. At the foot of Barclay street, extending to the Hudson river w^est of the Park, the Philadelphia steam-boats connected with the rail road are located ; also a part of the Albany boats, and the Hoboken ferry boats. Above St. Paul's church is the Park and City Hall, situated in the centre of the city, the former containing about 11 acres, which are ornamented with much taste, and enclosed by a substantial iron railing. It furnish- OS a cool and fashionable resort for men of business and pleasure, after the fatigue and heat of a summer's day» 100 KEW-YORK. On the right is the Park Theatre, and on the left Park Place, on the west side of which is Columbia College. The next street above Park Place is Murray, which leads to the Hoboken ferry. Of the public buildings, the most prominent and im- portant is the City Hall, the front of which is built of white mar- ble. It is 21G feet long, 105 feet broad, and, including the attic story, 65 feet high. The rooms for holding the different courts of law are fitted up in a rich and ex- pensive style. The room for holding the mayor's court contains portraits of Washington, of the different gov- ernors of the state, and many of the most celebrated commanders of the army and navy of the United States. The foundation stone of this building was laid in 1803, and the whole finished in 1812, at an expense of ,$500,- 000. It is one of the most elegant edifices in America, and reflects great credit on the inhabitants for their munificence and taste. The Merchant's Exchange in Wall-street, is also a superb structure of white marble. Its front on Wall- street is 114 feet, and its depth, extending to Garden- street, 150 feet. The main body of the building is two stories high, besides the basement and an attic. A- bout two thirds of the basement is occupied for the post-office, including a spacious corridor for the con- venience of persons visiting the office, with entrances leading thereto from Wall and Exchange streets. The portico of the building, to which a flight of marble steps ascends, is ornamented - with Ionic columns 27 feet high. In the centre is the Exchange, of an oval form, 85 feet long, 55 feet wide and 45 feet high, surmounted NEW-YORK. 101 with a dome, from which light is reflected. The whole is imposing, and affords a delightful promenade. From the Exchange are doors and passages leading to a com- mercial reading room and numerous newspaper and other offices within the edifice. From the attic story, a flight of stairs leads to a telegraphic room in the cupalo, where signals are made and returned from the tele- graph at the Narrows, 7k miles distant. The height of the cupalo above the attic story is 60 feet. The cost of this building, including the ground, was ,$230,000. It was commenced in 1824, and completed in 3 years thereafter. The United States Branch Bank, in Wall-street, is an elegant white marble building, 60 feet in front. The lot on which it was erected cost $40,000. Two doors west of this is the Custom-House; on v/hich scite a new and splendid building is soon to bo erected. Trinity Church, in Broadway, at the head of Wall street, from its antique appearance, generally attracts the notice of strangers. The first church on this spot was erected in 1698. Originally small, it was enlarged in 1737; but during the fire which destroyed the west part of the city in 1776, while the British troops were in possession, it was destroyed, and not re- built till 17S8. The present building is of stone, in Gothic style, and much like the old one, except a diminution in size, and has a steeple 198 feet high. It contains a chime of bells, the only set in the city, and an excellent organ. The cemetery surrounding it is ancient, and is enclos- ed by a substantial and costly iron railing. No inter- ments have taken place in this cemetery for some years, 10^ NEW-IORK. owing to a law prohibiting sepulture within the popu- lous parts of the city ; but it has been ascertained by authentic records kept, that more than one hundred and sixty thousand bodies have been here deposited, exclu- sive of the 7 years of the revolutionary war, when no records were kept. Among the illustrious dead who repose in this hallowed spot, are the remains of Gen. Hamilton and Capt. Lawrence. The monument over the grave of the former contains the following inscrip- tion : " To the memory of Alexander Hamilton, the corporation of Trinity church has erected this monu- ment in testimony of their respect for the patriot of in- corruptible integrity, the soldier of approved valor, the statesman of consummate wisdom, whose talents and whose virtues will be admired by grateful posterity long after this marble shall have mouldered into dust. He died July 2, 1804, aged 47." The monument to the memory of Capt. Lawrence, who was killed during the last war in an engagement between the U. S. frigate Chesapeake, which he com- manded, and the British frigate Shannon, represents a broken column, as emblematical of his premature death. It was erected at the expense of the corporation. Within the church, in rear of the altar, and directly facing the entrance of the aisle, is a beautiful and costly monument, erected to the memory of the distinguished and lamented Bishop Hobart. The design is allegori- cal, and highly expressive of the poetry of the art. The bishop is represented in his last moments, with his eyes lifted in confiding earnestness to heaven, which appears, from the peculiarity of the light, to be already NEvV-YORK. 103 opening its golden gates to receive his departing spirit. A female form, representing Religion, supports the head of the dying prelate with her left arm, while the right extended, points upwards to the cross, surrounded with rays of celestial, spiritual light. The likeness is easily recognized, and the" attitude of the bishop, over whose sinking frame the lassitude of death is stealing, and upon whose countenance the holy and seraphic joy of the christian is contending with the mortal agony of the man, claims the warmest commendation of the art- ist's skill. The inscription is as follows :^" Beneath this chancel rest the mortal remains of John Henry HoBART, Rector of Trinity church in this city, bishop of the protestant episcopal church in the state of New- York. Born in Philadelphia September 14th, 1775; died during a visitation to the western parts of his dio- cese in Auburn, 12th September, 1830. The vestry, in behalf of the associated congregations of Trinity church, have caused this monument to be erected in memory of the public services, private virtues, and christian graces of their beloved and lamented pastor ; in testimony of their respect for the wisdom, energy and piety of their revered diocesan ; in honor of the faithful and valiant soldier of Christ, who on all occa- sions stood forth the able and intrepid champion of the church of God." St. Paul's Chapel is a superb structure further up Broadway, near the Park. It contains a portico of the Ionic order, consisting of four fluted pillars of brown stone, supporting a pediment, with a niche in the cen- tre containing a statue of St. Paul. Under the portico ys a handsome monument erected by order of Congress I 104 NEW-TORK. to the memory of Gen. Montgomery, who fell at the storming of Cluebec in 1775, and whose remains were brought to New- York and interred beneath the monu- ment in 1819. The spire of this church is 234 feet high ; and the whole building is esteemed one of the best specimens of architecture in the city. In the church yard adjoining is an elegant monument, recently erected to the memory of Thomas Addis Emmet, an eminent counsellor at law, and brother of the unfortunate Irish orator, Robert Emmet. The phnth of the monument is one entire block, 7 feet square and 12 inches thick. The Egyptian obelisk, standing on its base, is also in a single piece, and is rising of thirty-two feet high. The face towards Broadway is embellished with the Ameri- can eagle, sheltering a harp unstrung, with a medallion likeness of Emmet, and with two clasped hands, having stars around one wrist and shamrocks around the other. On the face fronting Broadway is an English ; on that towards St. Paul's church, a Latin ; and on that to- wards Fulton street, an Irish inscription. St. John's Chapel, in Varick street, opposite Hud- son Square, is an elegant edifice, and the most expen- sive church in the city, having cost more than $200,- 000. Its spire is 240 feet in height. St. Patrick's Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church, in Mott street, is the largest religious edifice in New- York. It is built of stone, is 120 feet long, 80 feet wide, and is a conspicuous object in approaching the city from the east. There are nearly 100 other churches in the city, ma- ny of which were erected at a very considerable ex- NEW-TORK. lOS pense, and are an ornament to the sections of the city in which they stand. Columbia College, above the City Hall, was char- tered in 1750, under the name of King's College. The edifice and grounds attached are extensive, and are ad- vantageously and handsomely located. The college contains a chapel, lecture rooms, hall, library, museum, and an extensive philosophical and astronomical appa- ratus. The Hon. William A. Duer, a gentleman of distinguished talents and learning, presides over the in- stitution. The New- York Society Library, in Nassau street, was commenced in 1740, and at the commencement of the revolution contained 3000 volumes, which were de- stroyed or taken away by the British troops. It was re-established in 1789, and now consists of about 20,- 000 volumes, many of which are very rare and valua- ble. The Atheneum, Broadway, corner of Pine street, contains a reading room, which is open daily, except Sundays. The New- York Institution is in the rear of the City Hall. Its apartments are occupied by the Lit- erary and Philosophical Society, the Historical So- ciety, the American Academy of Fine Arts, the Ly~ ceum of National History, and the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb. The Historical Society has a li- brary of 10,000 volumes, embracing many valuable works. Near the institution are the Savings Bank and Pan- orama Rotunda ; and a Uttle further up Broadway, th^ 106 NEV/-TORK. New- York Hospital. The annual expenditure in this institution is about $40,000, and the annual number of patients from 140 to ISO. The Park Theatre is a spacious edifice, adjoining the Park. It was originally built in 1 79S, at an expense of $179,000, was destroyed by fire in 1820, and re-built the following year. It is SO feet long, 165 deep, and 55 high, and has generally been more hberally patronized than any other theatre in the city. The American Theatre, in the Bowery, displays much architectural beauty, and among the modern or- naments of the city, stands pre-eminent. It has a front of 75 feet, is 1 75 feet deep, and 50 feet high. It enjoys a handsome patronage. Besides these places of amusement, there is an Ital- ian Opera house at the corner of Church and Leonard streets, a theatre at Richmond Hill, and a circus in Broadway, between Canal and Grand streets. PRINCIPAL HOTELS. The Adelphi Hotel, corner of Beaver street and Broadway, kept by Mrs. Barker, is an elegant es- tablishment, built of brick and stuccoed. Its situa- tion is in a most delightful part of the city, fronting the Bowling Green, and in full view of the Battery and harbor. It is six stories high, and possesses spacious and airy accommodations. The Atlantic Hotel, kept by Mr. M'Niel Sey- mour, No. 5, Broadway, is a first rate establishment, elegantly furnished, and well patronized. NKW-VOP.E. 107 The City Hotel, a few doors north of Trinity church in Broadway, kept by Mr. Jennings, is an old and high- ly respectable establishment, and one of the most ex- tensive in the city, containing more than 100 parlors and lodging rooms, (many of them designed for private families) besides an assembly room, principally used for concerts. The rooms are furnished in the best style, and the house, from its central location and good accommodations, has always enjoyed an extensive pat- ronage. The National Hotel, kept by Mr. John Niblo, nearly opposite the City Hotel, is a large and excellent house, well furnished, and well supported. The Congress Hall, kept by Mr. Charles H. Webb, No. 144, Broadway, is well located, and affords the best of accommodations. The Franklin House, Broadway, corner of Dey street, kept by Mr. Newton Hayes, is pleasantly loca- ted, furnished in good style, and enjoys a handsome patronage. The American Hotel, kept by Mr. Milford, is delightfully situated, fronting the Park in Broadway, and is among the most favored establishments in the city. It is five stories high, and extends on Barclay street to the college of Physicians and Surgeons. Its public and private parlors and lodging rooms, which are numerous, are furnished in the best style, and it is extensively patronized by a fashionable and respectable company. i2 lOB NEW-tORlt. The Mansion House, (Bunker's,) 39 Broadway, is & commodious establishment, pleasantly located, and en- joys a handsome patronage of genteel company. The Washington Hall is another extensiA^e estab- lishment in BroadAvay, corner of Reed street, hand- somely fitted up, and possessing excellent accommoda- tions. Holt's Hotel, forming an allinement on throG streets, the one part in Water, another in Pearl, and its eastern limit facing on Fulton street, and occupying the entire block, is one of the most extensive and expen- sive establishments of the kind in the United States, It is built of white marble, and is six stories high, ex- clusive of the basement, having an attic of ample di- mensions, and surmounted by a lofty quadrangular tower, around which there is an extensive and pleasant promenade. Above tliis there is a spacious rotundo, from whose exalted summit a view is obtained of near- ly the whole city, the Eiist river, Brooklyn, part of Long- Island, the entire upper bay and harbor, Staten Island, a very considerable extent of the Hudson river and the Jersey shore. In the basement story, a steam engine of 12 horse power is placed, by means of which ma- chinery is put in motion which carries up through a perpendicular casement the cooked provisions for the guests, which, by this means, are conveyed almost to the side of the breakfast and dining tables. The sec- ond floor is occupied by drawing and sitting rooms, the large dining room being 100 feet in length and 28 in breadth, well supplied with light from numerous win- dows, and elegantly furnished. The third floor, con- NEW-YORK. 109 taining parlor, dining, retiring and receiving rooms, is exclusively appropriated to the accommodation of gen- tlemen having ladies and families. The other three stories and the attic, are judiciously divided into sitting and lodging rooms, with parlors, all of which are fur- nished in a style of richness and neatness, calculated to afford comfort and a home to every inmate. On the side and in the centre of the main stairway, the dumb waiters rise, by the aid of the steam-engine in the base- ment, to the tower, and by the active power of this en- ^ gine, and the use of forcing pumps, each story is at all tim.cs furnished with cold and hot water for the baths m the attic, and for ordinary uses in the several rooms. The house from the base to the foot of the tower is 100 feet high, and 140 to the summit. There are 365 rooms, 25 of which are parlors, 125 lodging rooms, and ftie residue appropriated to other useful purposes. Besides the foregoing public establishments, are Tammany Hall, (Lovejoy's) Park Row, corner of Frankfort street ; United States Hotel, Mr. Red- man, No. 178, Pearl street ; Clinton Hall, oppo- site the Park, in Beekman street ; Exchange Hotel, near the corner of "Wall and Broad streets, by Mr. Howard ; Merchant's Hotel, by Messrs. Thurston & Co. No. 108, Broad street, and several others of re- spectability, an enumeration of which will not be deem- ed necessary in this v/ork. Private Boarding Houses. The following are among the genteel and respectable private boarding bouses in Broadway, many of which ars extensive, and fitted up in a style not inferior to the best hotels : Mrs. 110 NEW-YORK. Baker's, No. 13 ; Mrs. Wood's, No. 24; Mrs. Chap- man's, No. 33; ,No.35; Street's, No. 36 ; Mrs, Keese's, No. 52 ; Pcarcy's, No. 56 ; Mrs. Miller's, No. 57 ; Mrs. Holmes', No. 58 ; Mrs. Mann's, No, 61 ; Mrs. Southart's, No. 65 ; Mrs. Storer's, No. 66 : Mrs. Waldron's, No. 126 ; Miss Wade's, No. 110. The prices at these houses vary from $1 to $2 per day, and from $5 to $10 per week. In point of population, this city is the "first in the United States, it having contained in 1830, 213,470 inhabitants, and in respect of trade it is now and will probably continue the first commercial metropolis in America. Though it cannot vie with Philadelphia, in-point of beauty and regularity, New- York exhibits an air of novelty and grandeur very imposing to a stranger. Its ever bustling streets and crowded wharves, indicate an uncommon sprit of commercial enterprize. Its local situation embraces every advan- tage for commerce ; and the canals, by opening an easy communication between the fertile regions of the west and north and the city of New- York, have produ- ced an astonishing change in its growth and prosperity. At no very distant period. New- York, with all its nat- ural and artificial advantages, will probably become the greatest commercial metropolis in the world. Packets. — London packets sail from New- York on the 1st, 10th and 20th, and from London on the 7th, 17th and 27th of each month. Liverpool packets sail from Ne\\'-York and from Liverpool on the 1st, 8th, 16th and 24th of each month. NEW-YORK. Ill Packets for Havre, leave New- York on the 1st, 8th, 16th and 24th of each month, and Havre on the same days during the year. New-Orleans packets sail from New- York on the 5th, 8th, 13th, 20th, 22d and 28th, and from New-Or- leans on the 1st, 5th, 13th, 15th, 20th and 28th of each month. The elegant steam packet ship, David Brown, leaves New-York once a fortnight for Charleston, S. C. PUBLIC COACHES. Strangers visiting New- York are liable to suffer from exorbitant exactions for coach hire. To guard against this, the corporation have licenced an adequate num- ber of hackmen, who may be found at several conveni- ent stands in the city, each coach being numbered. The rules and regulations to which they are subjected, can be found in the " Picture of New- York and Stran- ger's Guide," published by Mr. Goodrich, 124 Broadway, EXCURSIONS. Among the numerous places of fashionable resort in the vicinity of New- York, are Governor's, Bedlow's and Staten Islands, within the harbor ; Orange Springs, near Newark, Patterson, the Pasaic Falls, Hoboken and Weehawk, Schooly's Mountain, and Long Branch, in New- Jersey, on the west ; Manhattan Island, on the north ; and the tour of Long Island on the east. Governor's and Bedlow Islands are usually approach- ed only in row boats, and are less frequented on that account 112 PATTERSON — LONG BRANCH. Platen Island, south of the city, was noticed at page 97. In an excursion to Patterson and to the Passaic Falls^ the Patterson rail road, which commences opposite New- York, will soon be in readiness for the convey- ance of passengers the whole distance. The company for constructing the road was incorporated in January, J 831, and the western section was completed and car- riages placed thereon the following year. The whole length of the road is about 15 miles, in a north-westerly direction from New- York, and when completed, will afford an easy conveyance to the Passaic Falls and the thriving manufacturing village in their vicinity. The perpendicular pitch is 70 feet into a narrow and rocky chasm. The scenery is wild and imposing ; and the falls are among the greatest natural curiosities of this country. The Morris canal, noticed at page 90, passes near them. Hoboken and Weehaiok are on the west side of the Hudson river, opposite the northern parls of New- York, near which is the Hoboken duelling ground^ which cannot be easily approached, except in a boat. A monument was here erected some years since to the memory of Gen. Hamilton : but it has since been re- moved. Schooly^s Mountain, 50 miles west of New- York, was noticed at page 91. Long Branch, is 30 miles southof New- York, on the eastern shore of New -Jersey, and on the immediate bank of the Atlai.iiC ocean, an extensive view of which is here obtained. A bathuig establishment is erected, and the bank, which is elevated to a height of 30 or 40 feet for several miles, affords a beautiful promenad*. MANHATTAN ISLAND. US Sandy Hook and Neversink can be visited on this route, the heights of the latter affording an extensive view of the marine coast. The Harlaem Rail Road was originally designed to commence at 23d street, in the northern part of the city of New- York, and pass through the centre of the Fourth or Broadway ^venue to Harlaem river, at a point about 300 yards above the bridge, making the length of the road about 5 miles. Subsequently, how- ever, an amendment of the charter was obtained, and permission by the corporation granted, to extend the road southerly to Prince street ; one track passing through the Fourth Avenue, Union Place, Blooming- dale road, and Broadway, and another through the Bowery. The road is therefore about eight miles long. It was commenced, and so far finished in 1832, that passenger carriages were placed on a part of the road. When completed it wmII afford an additional and im- portant excursion to parties of pleasure. It is believed, also, that by providing an easy and expeditious mode of intercourse between the city and Harlaem, numerous merchants and other men of business will be induced to select the latter as a place of residence. A morning and evening ride to and from *:he city, would be a mere pastime, without interfering with the usual business hours ; and would moreover prove a healthful and in- vigorating exercise. Manhattan Island, on which New- York is located, is 15 miles long, and on an average one and a half broad ; the Hudson river bounding it on the west, the Harlaem river on the north, the East river on the east, and the bay on the south. A tour of the island can be per- 114 HURL GATE. formed in a few hours, and will be found to be highly diversified and interesting. Passing up on the west side, the Asylum for the Insane, on very elevated ground about 7 miles from the city, the heights of Fort Wash- ington, Harlaem and King'sbridge, are visited ; and in returning on the cast side. Hurl Gate, the Aims-House and House of Refuge. Hurl Gate is a narrow and apparently a dangerous strait in the East river, in which, at low water, there are numerous whirlpools or currents, occasioned by huge masses of rock projecting in various places, giv- ing to the river only a very contracted passage. At high water, these masses are more or less concealed, and the current is in a degree vmruffled. Losses of vessels were formerly experienced here ; but none have been known in some years. To avoid the dangers, however, incident to the navigation, a project has been formed of opening a ship canal between Pot and Hal- lett's Coves. A survey of the proposed route has been made, and the result of the examination is, that the length of the canal, to secure a sufficient depth of >va- ter in the coves, wdll be 2439 running feet, viz. 470 of excavation below high water, 1369 of high upland with indication of rock, and 600 of salt marsh. As the tide rises and falls in Hallett's Cove several minutes sooner than in the Pot, (Hurl Gate,) it would be ne- cessary to have two pairs of gates at each extremity. A draw-bridge would also be necessary, to accommo- date the ferry road which communicates from the Point at Hallet's Cove with the New- York shore, at the foot of 87th-street. The maximum cost is rated at |il62,- EROOKLIJf. 115 152 for tha entire completion of a canal 137 feet in width at high water on the surface, 80 at bottom, and 28 in depth, which would be sufficiently capacious for a line of battle ship. It is, however, believed that a ship canal 17 feet deep at high water, 82 feet wide between the banks, and 40 at bottom, would be preferable ; in which case the cost of completion has been estimated at $54,548. Brooklyn, (,on Long-Island,) directly opposite New- York, from which it is separated by the East river, is usually reached by steam-boats which are constantly plying between the foot of Fulton street and that vil- lage. In 1830, it had a population of 12,403, and with- in a few years has arisen to much importance. Its con- tiguity to New- York, and the facilities afforded for communicating between the two places, have induced many merchants and men of business to select it as a place of residence in preference to the upper parts of the city. The village also contains several elegant country seats and public gardens. Those on the bank contiguous to the East river, from their elevated situa- tion, overlooking the bay of New- York, and command- ing a view of a great part of the city, are peculiarly at- tractive and romantic. North-eastwardly of the vil- lage, on a tract of land called the Wallabout, is a U. S. navy yard, where are erected a house for the command- ant, several spacious ware-houses, and an immense wooden edifice, under which the largest ships of war are built. The steam frigate Fulton, which lay near the navy yard, and which was an object of attraction, was blown up at this plaee in 1829, occasioning the loss of several hves. e; '16 DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. Brooklyn is intimately connected with important events of the revolution, and in its vicinity are pointed out some remaining vestiges of fortifications and mil- itary works erected during that eventful period. The road to Flatbush (4 miles east) crosses the ground on which the battle of the 27th July, 1776, was fought, which resulted in a severe loss to the Americans and the capture of r'enerals Sullivan and Sterling. The marshes in which so many lives were lost in retreating from the British army are south of this. From Brooklyn to Jamaica, a pleasant village, and the capitol of the county of dueens, is 12 miles ; and from thence to Rockaway, bordering on the Atlantic, where an elegant public establishment, called the Pa- vilion, has been recently erected, is 9 miles farther. The roads to this place being excellent, it is much re- sorted to in the summer months. A fine view of the ocean is obtained, which from its unceasing roar and turbulence, is rendered unusually sublime. DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. From the collections of the New- York Historical Society, we are enabled to glean the following sketch of the first discovery of the Hudson river ; wliich may not be uninteresting to tourists about to embark on its waters : John D. Verrazzano, a Florentine, in the service of Francis I. of France, had been entrusted with the com- mand of four ships, in cruising against the Spaniards. These vessels being separated in a storm, the com- mander resolved, with one of them, to undertake a voyage for the discovery of new countries. About the middle of March, 1554, he accordingly arrived on the DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 117 American coast, and after having visited the coasts of North-Carolina and Georgia, he directed his course northward, and entered the harbor of the present city of New- York. He describes the islands (Staten, Man- hattan, &c.) as "fruitful and pleasant, full of hie and broad trees, among the which islands any navie may- ride safe, without any feare of tempest or other danger." He stayed in the harbor about 15 day si" Near]}' a century elapsed before any farther discove- ries were made on this part of the continent. It was reserved for Henry Hudson to make the first voyage, up the Hudson river. After having visited several har- bors, he entered the strait now called the Narrows on the Gth September, 1609. A boat was manned and des- patched by him to explore what appeared to be a river. In this sei-vice the boat's crew were engaged in the bay and adjacent waters during the day. On their way back to the ship, they w^ere attacked by thQ natives in two canoes. A skirmish ensued, in whicli one of Hudson's men, named Colman, was killed by an arrow which struck him in the throat, and two more wounded. The next day the remains of Colman were interred on a point of land not far from the ship ; which, from that circumstance, received the name of Colman's Point, and which was probably the same that is now called Sandy Hook. On the 12th, Hudson first entered the river, which bears his name, and sailed up about two leagues. He was visited by great numbers of the natives, who brought him Indian corn, tobacco, beans and oysters in great abundance. They had pipes of yellow copper, in which they smoked ; and earthen pots, in which they dressed their food. n3 DISCOVERT OF THE HUDSOK. From the VUh. to the 22d of September, Hudson waa employed in ascending the river. He describes it as abounding with great stores of salmon. In his passage he was visited by many of the natives, but always in an amicable manner. He sailed up, as is supposed, a little above where the city of Hudson now stands ; be- yond which he liimself never ascended. From this place he despatched a boat, (not considering it safe to proceed further with his vessel,) manned with five hands, which ascended the river, it is supposed, as far as where the city of Albany now stands. During this excursion, Hudson gave to some of the Indians ardent spirits, for the purpose of making an ex- periment on their tempers. He says they all became merry ; but only one was completely intoxicated. A tradition still exists among the six nations, that a scene of intoxication occurred when the first ship arrived; having reference, doubtless, to this event. Hudson began to descend the river on the 23d of September, having frequent intercourse with the Indi- ans on his way down, from whom he experienced kind treatment, until he descended below the Higlilands. Here they attempted to rob the ship, and repeatedly shot at the crew. He directed several muskets to be discharged at them, which killed ten or twelve. These conflicts occurred frequently during the 1 st and 2d of October ; but none of the ship's crew were injured. On the 4th of October, one month from the time he first landed at Sandy Hook, he sailed out of the river, and proceeded to sea, reaching England the 7th of No« vember following. FROM NEW-VORK TO ALBANY. 11^ Hudson did not give his own name to the river he discovered. It was called, by the Iroquois Indians, Cahohatatea ; by the Mohicans, Mahakaneghtuc, and sometimes Shaterauck. Hudson styled it the " Great River," or the " Great River of the Mountains." The name of its discoverer, however, Avas given to it soon afterwards. Hudson, in a subsequent voyage for the East India Company, became a prey to the mutiny of his men in the bay which bears his name. He was forcibly put into a boat with his son and seven others, who were mostly invalids, and, in this manner, inhumanly aban- doned. They were never heard of more. TROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY, A distance, by water, of 144 miles, and by land, measuring between the respective post offices, of 160 miles, a communication is alternately kept up by a line of stages in the winter season, and by steamboats dur- ing the absence of ice in the Hudson. The following is a table of distances between the two places : DISTANCE BY WATER FROM o New- York, 1^4 Weehawken, 6 6 138 Palisadoes, southern termination 2 8 136 Fort Vv^ashington, 4 12 132 Tappan Bay, southern extremity, ., . 12 24 120 SingSing,:. 8 32 112 k2 120 PROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANT. DISTANCE BT WATER FROM i3 ^ ^ S S fM ^ S i I O, !2; <5 HaverstrawBay, 2 34 110 StoneyToint, <.... 5 39 105 Verplanck's Point, 1 40 104 Horse Race, (Highlands,) 2 42 102 Anthony's Nose, 3 45 99 West Point, 5 50 94 Pollopel Island, 6 56 88 Newburgh, 4 60 84 Milton, 11 71 73 Poughkeepsie, 4 75 68 Hyde Park, 5 80 63 Rhinebeck, 10 90 53 Redhook, lower landing, 7 97 46 Redhook, upper do 3 100 43 Gatskill, 11 111 32 Hudson, 5 116 27 Coxsackic, 8 124 19 Kinderhook, 1 125 18 New-Baltimore, 5 130 13 Schodack, 4 134 9 Albany, 10 144 Boats leave New- York for Albany at 7 o'clock A. M. and at 5 P. M., and the trip is usually performed in from 12 to 14 hours — fare from $2 to ,*53,50. A morning boat will prove the most interesting to those who have never performed the route by day-light ; as it will af- ford an opportunity of witnessing the rich scenery and numerous villages and country seats between the two cities. PASSAGE OF THE HnDSONT. 121 THE PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. Besides the pleasure of a steam-boat passage, the Hudson river presents to the tourist a variety of natu- ral scenery v^rhich it will be difficult to find elsewhere in a journey of the same extent. To the gratification derived from a prospect of the beautiful and sublime ob- jects of nature, the effect of the most striking contrast is added, to render the scene truly picturesque and en- chanting. On the one hand are seen summits, crown- ed with forests, apparently impenetrable to the foot- steps of cultivation ; and on the other, beautiful and extensive lawns, checkered with the abodes of hus- bandry, and glowing in all the rich verdure of summer ; while, in the same circumstances of vision, may be seen the fading view of some town or city, and in perspec- tive a perpetual opening scenery of forests and cultiva- tion, plains and mountains, towns and villages, impart- ing to the beholder all the charms of novelty, with the highest emotions of the sublime. Weehawken, about 6 miles from the city, on the -west side of the river, is pointed out to the traveller as the ground on which Gen. Hamilton fell in a duel with Col. Burr. It is a small spot on the margin of the riv- er, with huge rocks on three sides, effectually screen- ing it from the observation of man, except from the riv- er ; and probably has, for that cause, been selected as a suitable place for settling affairs of honor. Till with- in a few years, it contained a monument erected to tha memory of Gen. Hamilton by the St. Andrews society ; feut it has been removed. His body was deposited in 122 FORT LEL — rORT WASHINGTON. the ground attached to Trinity church in the city, where there is a handsome monument, enclosed in an iron raiUng. (See pages 101 and 112.) The Palisadoes, which first make their appearance on the Hudson, ahout 8 miles from New- York, are a range of rocks, from 20 to 550 feet in height, and ex- tend from thence to Tappan, a distance of about 20 miles. In some places they rise almost perpendicular- ly from the shore, and form, for several miles in extent, a solid wall of rock, diversified only by an occasional fishing hut on the beach at their base, or wood slides down their sides, and sometimes by an interval of a few acres of arable land, affording an opening for a landing place, and a steep road leading to their top. On the opposite side of the river, the land is varied by hill and dale, cultivated fields and woods, with cottages and country seats. The land in this place, however, back from the river, rises in rocky hills, and becomes more precipitous as you advance into Westchester county. Twelve miles from New- York, the boat passes the site of Fort Lee, on the brow of the Palisadoes, at the height of 300 feet above the river ; nearly opposite to which, on a high hill on the east side of the river, stood Fort Washington. In October, 1776, after the evac- uation of New-York by the American troops, follow- ed the battle of Vv^hite Plains, by which name is known the high ground on the east, between the Hudson river and the Sound above Kingsbridge, whence Washing- ton retreated to Peekskill. Fort Washington was then taken by the Hessians and British, and the garrison, TAPPAM BAT — TARRTTOW.V. 12S composed of 2600 militia and regular troops, surren- dered prisoners of war. The surrender of Fort Lee fol- lowed soon after Washington crossed the Hudson. There was also on the east side another fort, called In- dependence. Twenty-four miles ubove New- York the river ex- pands and forms what is called Tappan Bay. The lit- tle village of Tappan, a place of much note during An- dre and Arnold's conspiracy, is situated on its wes- tern shore. The spot of Andre's grave is still pointed out near this village, thxjugh his remains were convey- ed to England a few years since, by order of the Brit- ish government. This bay is from 2 to 5 miles wide, and 8 miles long, terminating at Teller's Point. About a mile above Tappan village, on the eastern shore, is the village of Tarrytowk, vi^here Andre was captured by Paulding, Van Wart and Williams, the American militia-men. Paulding died some years ago, and a monument was erected over his grave by the cor- poration of New-York. Van Wart died more recent- ly, and a monument to his memory has been erected by the citizens of Westchester county. It is a neat struc- ture of white marble, consisting of a base of three as- cending steps, and a pedestal upon which stands an obelisk ; in all, being from fifteen to eighteen feet high. It stands by the road side, in a retired valley in the town of Greensbush, about three miles east of Tarry- town. Near the northern extremity of Tappan Bay, on the eastern shore, is the Sing Sing state prison. It com- *■ prises 800 dormitaries or solitary cells, is 4 stories high, sad occupies about 50 by 500 feet of ground. From 124 HAVERSTRAW BAT THF. HIGHLANDS.- each end of the main building, which stands parallel M'ith the river, in a westerly direction, are carried out wings, 300 feet in extent, forming a spacious inner yard, open only to the river. The wings, composed of marble, are constructed for workshops, a chapel, kitch- en, hospital, &c. The chapel is of sufficient dimen- sions to hold 900 persons. The keeper's house, on the south-eastern end of the main building, is also con- structed of marble. The number of convicts in the prison is usually from 800 to 1000. Its erection was commenced in 1825, and its cost is estimated at rising of $200,000. -Haverstraw Bat commences 34 miles from New- York, and terminates at Stoney and Verplanck's Points ,• being about 6 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 in mdth, Haverstraw village is on the west side of this bay. The Highlands, or Fishkill Mountains, which first appear about 40 miles from New- York, will attract no- tice, not only from their grandeur and subhmity, but al- so from their association with some of the most impor- tant events of the revolution. This chain of mountains is about 16 miles in width, and extends along both sides of the Hudson, to the distance of 20 miles. The height of the principal has been estimated at 1565 feet. Ac- cording to the theory of the late Doctor Pvlitchell, this thick and solid barrier seems in ancient days to have impeded the course of the water, and to have raised a lake high enough to cover all the country to duaker Hill and the Laconick Mountains on the cast, and to WEST I'OINT. 125 Shawangunk and the Catskill Mountains on the west ; extending to the Little Falls of the Mohawk, and to Hadley Falls on the Hudson — but by some convulsion of nature, the mountain chain has been broken, and the rushing waters found their way to the now New- York bay. At the entrance of the Highlands, on the south, is the site of an old fort on Verplanck's Point, opposite to which stood the fort of Stoney Point, which was tak- en from Gen. Wayne in 1778, and re-taken by him the same year. About two miles north of this, what is termed the Horse Race commences. Tliis consists of an angle in the river, which, for a little more than a mile, takes an eastwardly direction, contracted to a very narrow space within bold and rocky mountains ; one of which, Anthony's Nose, is 1228 feet high, and is opposite the mouth of Montgomery creek, overlook- ing Forts Montgomery and Clinton. These forts, under the command of Gen. Putnam, were captured by the British troops under Sir Henry Clinton, in 1777, when on his way to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ; the news of whose surrender, however, reached Sir Henry when he had proceeded as far as Kingston, 50 miles higher up, and changed his advance into a retreat. Bloody Pond, so called from its being the place in which the bodies of the slain were thrown after the de- fences of these forts, is in the rear of Fort Clinton. West "Point, one of the most impregnable posts during the revolutionary war, is situated on the west side of the Hudson, near the entrance of the High- lands on the north. It formed an important fast- ness of the American army during the eight years 126 WEST POINT contest with the British nation ; and the consequence attached to it, in a miUtary point of view, was evinc- ed by the repeated but unsuccessful efforts of the enemy to obtain it. It was here that Arnold con- ceived the horrid purpose of bartering his country for gold.* This conspiracy, however, which aimed a death blow to liberty in the western hemisphere, resulted on- ly in the viniversal contempt and ignominy of Arnold, and in the lamented death of the unfortunate Andre. There are here at present a number of dwelling-houses, and a military academy, built on the plain which forms the bank of the river, 188 feet in height, to which a road ascends on the north side of the point. In the back ground, and elevated on a mass of rocks 598 feet in heio-ht, is the site of Fort Putnam. Silence and decay now mark the spot of this once formidable fortress. Its mouldering ruins, however, convey a pretty correct idea of the impregnable barrier its ramparts once pre- sented to the enemies of freedom. The Military Academy here estabhshed by con- gress, was first organized under the direction of the lata Gen. Williams, in 1802. Of the number of applicants for admission to this institution, a preference is usually given, first, to the sons of officers of the revolution; and secondly, to the sons of deceased officers of the + The residence of Gen. Arnold was at the house and farm of Col. Beverly Robinson, opposite West Point, on the east bank of the Hudson. The house is still a conspicuous object, as well as the one in which Arnold fixed his head quarters. WEST POINT. 127 late war. None are admitted under the age of 14 years, nor above the age of 22. The number of cadets is lim- ited to 250, each of whom costs the government $336 annually ; and the whole establishment is maintained at an annual expense of $115,000. In addition to the various sciences which are taught here, the cadets are instructed in all the practical minutiae of tactics ; com- prehending the lowest duties of the private soldier, as well as the highest duties of the officer. They are al- so required to encamp for 6 or 8 weeks in a year ; dur- ing which time they are instructed in the manner of pitching and striking tents, in the various infantry evo- lutions, and in all the details of the camp. Several of the buildings at West Point are elegant, and among the number may be ranked a spacious and costly hotel. It has been erected in a style and on a scale which render it a great ornament to the grounds. It is substantially built of stone, painted yellow, and the lower story is surrounded on its sides with extensive piazzas, forming a delightful promenade. Its rear is upon the Hudson, and presents a delightful view up the river through the Highlands. The front faces the pa- rade ground and the ground used for the encampment. In the morning, the cadets drill as artillery, in front of the camp. The system followed is that of Lalle- mand. The drill of the afternoon is that of infantry. But the principal attraction to the visiter is the morn- ing and evening parade, in which the whole battalion, with the exception of the guard, is drawn out and car- ried through the manual, by the officer commanding. Near the north eastern extremity of the grounds, at the projecting point forming the abrupt bend of the 128 NEW WINDSOR. river, stands a monument of white marble, consisting of a base and short column, on the former of which ia simply inscribed on one side, "Kosciusko," it having been erected to the memory of that distinguished patri- ot who resided here. Another monument stands on the N. W. corner of the grounds near the road from the landing to the hotel, upon a small hillock. It is a plain obelisk about 20 feet high, erected by the late Gen. Brown, to the memory of Col. E. D. Wood, a pupil of the institution, who fell leading a charge at the sortie from Fort Erie, on the 17th September, 1814. On the bank of the Hudson at the south eastern ex- tremity of the parade ground, and several yards be- neath, is a spot called Kosciusko's garden, or Koscius- ko's retreat. It is the place to which the Polish patri- ot was accustomed to retire to study, and which was cultivated by his own hands. Though now neglected, the marks of cultivation are perceptible in the regulari- ty of the walks and the arrangement of the trees. A more dehghtful spot for recreation or repose cannot be imagined, nor one more suitable as a retreat from the cares of the great world, or a sanctuary for unfortunate patriotism or persecuted virtue. PoLLOPEL Island is situated at the northern en- trance of the Higlilands, 6 miles above West Point. It consists of a mass of rock, and rises near the centre of the river between Breakneck Hill on the east and But- ter Hill on the west. The altitude of the latter is 1529 feet — the former is 11S7 feet in height, and contains the rock called the Upper Anthony's Nose. New-Windsor. Passing the Highlands, the pros- pect changes into a very agreeable contrast. The bay NEWBUROH. 129 of Newburgh with the village of the same name, and New-Windsor, and on the opposite shore the village of Fishkill, with its numerous adjacent manufactories and country seats, together with a view of the Hudson for many miles above, form a prospect which cannot fail to impart much interest. The village of New-Windsor stands on the margin of the river, 7 miles from West Point. It is calculated for a pleasant place of resi- dence, but in business it must yield to the rival vil- lage of Newburgh. This is an incorporated village, situa- ted on the declivity of a hill on the west side of the Hudson, 10 miles north from West Point, and 84 south from Albany. It contains about 600 houses, and a population of about 4000 inhabitants. From its situa- tion it commands an extensive intercourse and trade with the country on the west, and by means of the Hud- son river, with New- York. This place was for some time the head quarters of the American army during the revolutionary war ; and the " stone house" in which Gen. Washington quartered is still standing. On the opposite side of the river from Newburgh is Beacon Hill, one of the highest summits of the Fishkill moun- tains, where parties of pleasure frequently resort in the summer season, to witness an extent of prospect inclu- ding a part of the territories of five different states. This hill is 1471 feet in height. Half a mile south is the New Beacon, or Grand Sachem, 1685 feet above the level of the Hudson. They are called Beacon Hills, from the circumstance that beacons were erected oa their summits during the revolutionary war. The con" 130 HYDE PARK LANDING. tinuation of this chain of mountains is lost in the Ap- palachian Range on the north east, and extends south as far as the eye can reach. Diminished in distancCj is seen West Point, environed by mountains, apparently reposing on the surface of the Hudson, and bathing their rocky summits in the clouds. MiLTOx, is a small hamlet, situated on the west side of the Hudson river, in the town of Marlborough, 11 miles from Newburgh. This place is called the half- way place between New- York and Albany, being 72$ miles distant from each. Two and a half miles south of Milton, on the east side of the Hudson, is the man- sion house of the late Gov. George Chnton. PouGHKEEPSiE, 15 milcs north of Newburgh, is sit- uated one mile east from the Hudson, on the post road from Albany to New- York, and was incorporated in 1801. The village is about the same size of New- burgh, handsomely located, and a place of considerable trade. It is laid out in the form of a cross, the two prin- cipal streets crossing each other at right angles. A road leads down a long steep hill from Poughkeepsie to the landing on the Hudson river. This landing is 3 miles above Milton. About 5 miles farther north is Hyde Park Landing, on the east side of the Hud- son river, near which are a number of country seats. From thence 4 miles up the river is a landing place, leading to Staatsberg, one mile distant, in the town of Hyde Park. From thence to Rhinebeck Landing is 5 miles,* — thence to Redhook Lower Landing, is 7 miles *Near this place, on the west side of the river, is the eommencement of the Delaware and Hudson canal. It CAtSKll.L. 131 — Ihence to Redhook Upper Landing, 3 miles— thence S miles to the seat of the late Chancellor Livingston— thence 7 miles to the manor house of the late Lord Livingston— thence one mile to Oakhill— thence one mile to Catskill. This village takes its name from a large creek which flows through it, and empties into the Hudson at that place. It is situated on the west bank of the river, 32 miles from Albany, and contains about 350 dwellings, and a population in the entire town of nearly 5000 inhabitants. On Catskill creek are already a number of mills and manufactories, and the general appearance of the village is highly flattering, as it re- spects its future growth and prosperity. This village is in the immediate neighberhood of the Kalsbergs or Cats- kill mountains, which are seen for many miles along the Hudson, and here assume a truly majestic and sub- lime appearance. The highest elevation of this range of mountains is in the county of Greene, from 8 to 12 miles distant from the river, including the Roimd Top, 3804 feet, and High Peak, 37 1 8 feet in height The vil- lage of Catskill, which was formerly visited principally by men of business, has more recently become the re- sort of people of fashion and pleasure, who design a tour to the extends in a south-westwardly direction to the forks of the Dyberry on the Lackawaxen river, Pennsylvania, distance 103 miles, lockage 1438 feet. It was origi- nally intended by the company to have extended this canal to Keen's pond, 13 miles from its present termi- nation, but it has been abandoned and a rail road sub- stituted, which extends 3 miles west of Keen's pond to the Anthracite coal mines of Pennsylvania. l2 132 PINE onCHARD. Pine Orchard, a place which, for several years past, has attracted the attention of all classes of men, and still continues to draw to it numbers of those who are fond of novelty, and especially of the sublime and ro- mantic scenery in which it abounds. Regular stages leave Catskill for the Pine Orchard twice a day. The fare is the moderate price of one dollar. The whole distance is 12 miles, computed as follows : From the village to Lawrence's tavern, 7 miles — from thence to the foot of the mountain, 2 miles — from thence to Pine Orchard, 3 miles. This distance is passed, in going, in about 4 hours — in returning, in about 2 hours. The country through which the road passes has nothing in- teresting in its appearance, until it reaches the moun- tain, being generally uneven and barren, and diversi- fied with but one or two comparatively small spots of cultivation, upon Avhich the eye can rest with satisfac- tion. A short tim.e is usually taken up at Lawrence's, for the purpose of refreshment, before encountering the rugged ascent of the mountains. This part of the road is generally good, but circuitous, and often passes on the brink of some deep ravine, or at the foot of some frowning precipice, inspiring at times an unwelcome de- cree of terror. The rock uoon which stands the hotel forms a circular platform, is of an uneven surface, and includes about six acres. It is elevated above the Hud- son upwards of 2200 feet.-^ The Hotel is 140 feet in *Capt. Patridge, who visited the Catskill mountains in 1828, made the following barometrical observ-ations : Altitude of the Mountain House, at the Pine Or- chard, above the surface of the Hudson river at Cats- kill village, 2212 feet. PINE orchahd, 133 length, 24 feet in width, and 4 stories high, and has pi- azzas in front the whole length, and a wing extend- ing in the rear for lodging rooms. The building is owned by the "Catskill Mountain Association," an in- corporated company, with a capital of $10,000. It is well furnished, and possesses every convenience and accommodation requisite to the comfort and good cheer of its numerous guests. The prospect from Pine Or- chard embraces a greater extent and more diversity of scenery than is to be found in any other part of the state, or perhaps in the United States. The vast vari- ety of fields, farms, villages, towns and cities between the green mountains of Vermont on the north, the high- lands on the south, and the Taghkanick mountains on the east, together with the Hudson river, studded with islands and vessels, som.e of which may be seen at even the distance of GO miles, are apparent in a clear atmos- phere to the naked eye ; and when the scene is gradu- Do. of the same above the scite of Lawrence's tav- ern, 7 miles from Catskill, 1882 feet. Do. of the same above the turnpike gate at the foot ©f the mountain, 1574 feet. Do. of the same above Green's bridge, 947 feet. The foregoing results were derived from a series of barometrical and thermometrical observations, made on the 17th July, 1823. The altitude of the Mountain House, as above stated, was the result of two distinct series of observations, made in going from the Catskill village to the house, aiid returning from the same to the village. The ascending series gave an altitude of 2225 feet, and the descending series an altitude of 2203 feet. The mean of these two extremes gives 2212 feet. This result Capt. P. considered as a very near approximation to the true altitude. 134 HUDSON. ally unfolded, at the opening of the day, it assumes rath- er the appearance of enchantment than a reality. It is not uncommon, at this place, to witness storms of snow and rain in their seasons, midway the mountain, while all is clear and serene on its summit. About two miles from the Hotel, are the Kaaterskill Falls, which take their name from the stream on which they are sit- uated. This stream takes its rise from two small lakes, half a mile in the rear of the Hotel ; and after a wester- ly course of a mile and a half, the waters fall perpen- dicularly 175 feet, and after pausmg a moment on a projection of-the rock, plunge again down a precipice of 85 feet more, making the whole descent of the falls 260 feet. The road to the falls is extremely rough ; but this objection will hardly deter the traveller from a visit to a spot so novel and romantic. Athens, five miles above Catskill, is an incorporated village, and contains about 1000 inhabitants. Its situ- ation, on a gentle slope of land, rising gradually from the river, gives it a very favorable appearance. The vicinity of Athens to Hudson, immediately opposite, seems to forbid that importance in point of trade, its lo- cation might otherwise warrant. Athens furnishes a number of beautiful scites on the bank of the river ; some of which are already occupied by the elegant mansions of private gentlemen. The City of Hudson stands on the east side of the river, 27 miles south from Albany. The plain on which Hudson is situated rises abruptly from the river, by banks from 50 to 60 feet in height ; and terminates on the east, at the foot of high lands, which overlook the city at an elevation of some hundred feet, and furnish ALBANY. 135 a prospect of the Hudson river and scenery for many miles in extent. The city contained in 1830, 5392 in- habitants, and is daily increasing in wealth, population and commerce. Claverack creek on the east, and Kin- derhook creek on the north, afford every facility for mills and manufactories, in which Hudson abounds ; and which have entitled it to the third rank, in manu- factures, in the state. On the opposite side of the Hud- son appear a number of country seats with the farm houses and cultivation in the neighborhood of Athens and Catskill, bounded by the lofty Katsberghs, rising in the back ground and mingling their rugged summits with the clouds. CoxsACKiE LANDING, whcrc are several houses and stores, is eight miles north of Hudson. From thence to Kinderhook landing is 1 mile. Here are about 30 dwellings and a post office. The village of Kinder- hook is situated 5 miles east. Five miles further north, is the village of New-Baltimore ; thence to Coeymans, 2 miles — thence to Schodac village, 2 miles — thence to Castleton landing, 2 miles — thence to Albany, 8 miles, ALBANY Is the capital of the state of New- York, and in point of wealth, population, trade and resources, is the sec- ond city in the state, and the sixth or seventh in the Union. It is situated on the west side of the Hudson river, and near the head of tide water. It was settled in 1612 ; and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the oldest settlement in the IT. S. In 1614, a small fort and trading house were built by the Dutch on an isl- and half a mile below the scite of the present city ; and 136 ALBANY. soon afterwards fort Orange, where the city now stands. The place was first called Aurania ; then Beverwyck, till 1625; then Fort Orange till 1647, and Williamstadt till 1664. For a longtime after its foundation it was enclosed with palisadoes or pickets, as a defence against the Indians, -who were then numerous and powerful in its vicinity. Its charter was granted in the year 1636, and embraced an area of 7160 acres. A great propor- tion of its soil is sandy and unproductive, and under no system of useful cultivation. Though the first appearance of this city is not prepossessing to a stranger, still the taste which has been displayed in the construction of its public and private buildings — the constant din of commercial bu- siness which assails the ear of the traveller — the termi- nation of the Erie canal and the Mohawk and Hudson rail road at this place, and many other attendant cir- cumstances, render Albany an important and interest- ing spot. The town is divided into five wards, and contains many superb and elegant buildings. The principal streets are Market, Pearl, and State streets. The two former run parallel with the river, and the latter is a spacious one, extending from the Capitol to the Hud- son, nearly east and west. Besides these, there are many other steets, less considerable in extent, but pop- ulous and crowded with shops and stores. The Capitol, which contains the legislative halls, the supreme and chancery court rooms of tlie state, the state hbrary, and other apartments for public busi- ness, stands at the head of State street, on an elevation of 130 feet above the level of the river. It is asubstan- ALBANY. 137 tial stone edifice, erected at an expense of $120,000. It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 feet high, consisting of two stories, and a basement of 1 feet. The east front is adorned with a portico of the Ionic order, having 4 magnificent cokmms, 3 feet 8 inches in diam- eter, and 33 feet in heiglit. In the senate and assembly chambers and in the room used for holding the court of chancery are full length portraits of Washington, of the various executives who have administered the govern- ment of the state, and of Abraham Van Vechten, Esq, an eminent counsellor at law residing in Albany. There is also in the senate chamber a good bust of Doct, Franklin. The Public Square, on the S. W. of which stands the Capitol, is arranged in the style of a park, is sur- rounded by a costly iron fence, and has several delight- ful walks and avenues. North of the Capitol stands the Academy, one of the most elegantly constructed buildings in the city. It cost about $92,000 exclusive of the lot on which it is erected, and some donations. It is built office stone, 3 stories in height, and 90 feet in front. It is one of the most flourishing institutions in the state ; has 5 teachers and about 140 students. The City Hall, fronting the foot of Washington street, and near the capitol square, is a costly edifice of white marble, displaying much taste in its structure, and is ornamental to the part of the city in which it stands, The dome is gilded, and is a conspicuous ob- ject at some distance from the city. 138 ALBANY. The State Hall, for the offices of the secretary of state, comptroller, treasurer, surveyor- general, attor- ney-general, register in chancery, and clerk of the su- preme court, is situated on the south side of State-street, nearly equi-distant from the Capitol and the foot of the street. There are in this ciry 5 banks and 17 houses for public worship. Also a large brick building for the Lancaster school, a theatre in South Pearl street, and an arsenal in North Market street. The museum is in an elegant marble building, owned by Messrs. Thorp & Sprague, at the corner of State and North Market streets, and is one of the best in the country. Hotels. — The principal hotels in Albany, are the Eagle Tavern, South Market street ; the Adclphi Ho- tel, Bement's Hotel, American Hotel, State street ; Congress Hall, Capitol Square ; Mansion House, City Hotel, and Temperance House, North Market street. These- are all first rate establishments, elegantly fur- nished and well kept. On a less expensive scale, are the Fort Orange Ho- tel, Colum.bian Hotel, Exchange Coffee House, and Montgomery Hall, South Market st. ; and the Frank- lin House, State street. During the sessions of the New- York Legislature, Albany is crowded with strangers, and contains much of the legal talent and learning of the state. The city is eligibly situated for trade, being the great thorough- fare for the northern and western sections of the coun- try. The Albany Basin, where the waters of the Erie canal unite with the Hudson, consists of a part of the river ALBANY. 139 included between the shore and an artificial pier erect- ed SO feet ^in width and 4,300 feet in length. The pier contains about 8 acres, and is connected with the city by draw bridges. It is a grand and stupendous work, on which spacious and extensive stores have been erect- ed, and where an immense quantity of lumber and oth- er articles of trade are deposited. Its original cost was $130,000, and the different lots were sold at public auc- tion at a considerable advance. The basin covers a surface of 32 acres. A mineral spring was discovered in Albany a few years since, by boring through a slate rock to the depth of 500 feet. '^ The partners in this, however, having dis- agreed, one of them (McCuUoch, a Scotchman) com- menced boring on his own account, in the same neigh- borhood, and at the depth of 617 feet struck upon an- other, much superior in its qualities. It contains a large quantity of muriate of soda, and is an active cathartic. The spring is enclosed in a handsome garden, and is a place of resort for citizens and strangers. EXCURSIONS. The environs of Albany are pleasant, affording many delightful walks and rides, and the adjacent cities of Troy and Schenectady, and the villages of Lansing- burgh and Waterford, the Cohoes Falls, the Shaker settlement at Niskayuna, &c. furnish points for short and interesting excursions. On the road to Troy, the first object which usually attracts the attention of the tourist is the mansion of Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer, the patroon of the 140 U. S. ARSENAL. manor of Rensselaerwick,* which stands at the north- ern extremity of Albany, and which is one of the most elegant situations in the United States. The munifi- cence and liberality of its opulent and distinguished proprietor are proverbial. There are few charitable or scientific institutions in the state of which he is not a benefactor ; and he has probably contributed more than any other citizen towards the fostering of agricul- tural and literary improvements. The McAdamized Road between Albany and Wa- tervliet, opposite Troy, commences at this place. It runs parallel with the Erie canal, near its western bank, is between 5 and 6 miles long, of a width sufficient for three carriages to run abreast, and is one of the most elegant roads on the continent. The vales and hills through which it passes have been sufficiently elevated or depressed to afford either a level or a very moderate inclination ; so that the speed of a carriage over the whole is uninterrupted. It is the property of an incor- porated company, who have expended between $90,000 and $100,000 in its construction. Five miles from Albany is th^ U. S. Arsenal, con- sisting of handsome brick and stone buildings, beau- tifully located on the western bank of the Hudson. There is here a large quantity of arms and munitions of war, with workshops for repairing them, manufac- turing locks, &c. The muskets, bayonets, swords and * This manor comprises a great portion of the coun- ties of Albany and Rensselaer — the city and several patents excepted. CITY OF TROY. 141 pistols are arranged with great taste and kept in fine order. Among the cannon in the yard are four 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, taken at Sara- toga; four 12's and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one eight inch mortar, taken at Stoney Point ; two old French 4 pounders and 14 guns, sent by Louis XVI. to the continental congress in the revolution — all of brass, and most of them highly ornamented, with each an individual name and the inscription " ultima ratio regium," There are also three or four howitzers cast in New-York and Philadelphia in the revolution, some of the oldest spe- cimens of this manufacture in the country, and bearing the initials U. C. for United Colonies. Haifa mile further is the village of Watervliet, or rather from the Arsenal to and including West Troy or Port Schuyler, is a continuous village, which has rap- idly increased within a short period. From Watervliet, there are two routes to AVaterford ; one leading through Troy and Lansingburgh, and the other by the Junction of the Erie and Northern canals and the Cohoes falls ; one of which can be taken in going from, and the other in returning to Albany. The Troy and Lansingburgh route. The Hudson which is here about one fourth of a mile wide, is crossed in a horse ferry-boat from Watervliet to the City of Troy. It is bounded on the east by a range of hills rising abruptly from the alluvial plain on which the city is situated, extending to the Hudson river. In point of location and beautiful natural scenery, Troy ia 142 CITY OF TROT. exceeded by few, if any, of the towns and villages on the Hudson. The streets, running north and south, converge together at the north end of the city, and are crossed at right angles by those running east and west. The buildings are principally built of brick, and are shaded by rows of trees on each side of the streets which are preserved remarkably clean, by additions of slate and gravel, instead of pavements. The city con- tains three banks, seven churches, a court house, jail and market. The Episcopal church is a superb speci- men of Gothic architecture, probably not exceeded in the United States. It has a venerable and imposing appearance, and needs nothing but a quantity of moss and ivy to make it the picture of one of those ancient abbeys so often to be met with in the writings of Sir Walter Scott. A large three story brick building has also been erected at the expense of the corporation, for the accommodation of the female seminary incorporat- ed at this place. This institution is under the govern- ment of a female principal (Mrs. Willard) and several assistants, whose exertions have given it a deserved celebrity over similar institutions in the state. There are annually educated at this seminar}'^ from 60 to 80 females. The population of Troy in 1830, was 1 1,605.* + A rail road is now constructing from this city to Ballston Spa, which runs parallel with the Hudson river to Mechanic's Ville, 1 2 miles above Troy, from whence it passes in a north westerly direction to its point of termination. LANSlNGBtTRGH— WATERFORD. 14$ jyiount Ida in the rear of Troy, is a romantic spot^ affording a very extensive prospect of the Hudson river and the adjacent country. About a mile above the city, a dam has been thrown across the river, and a lock constructed, affording a sloop navigation to the village of Waterford. One mile and a half from Troy is the Rensselaer school, which was established by, and is under the pat- ronage of Gen. Stsphen Van Rensselaer. It is a valu- able and flourishing institution. Lansincburgh, three miles from Troy, is principally built on a single street, running parallel with the river. A high hill rises abruptly behind the village, on which is seen the celebrated diamond rock, which at times emits a brilliant lustre from the reflected rays of the sun. The appearance of Lansingburgh by no means indicates a high state of prosperity, though it contains several very handsome private residences. The village has a bank, two places of public worship, and an acad- emy. Its population in 1830, was 2663. About a mile north, a well built and handsome bridge extends across the Hudson river to the village of Waterford. This village is situated at the junc- tion of the Mohawk with the Hudson, and derives con- siderable importance from the navigation of small ves- sels, which, by means of the lock and dam below, at most seasons of the year arrive and depart to and from its docks. The village contained in 1830, a population of 1473 inhabitants. It enjoys many advantages for trade, and its importance is much increased by the m2 144 COHOES FALLS. northern canal, which communicates with the Hudsont river at this place. The Junction and Cohoes route. From Watervliet to Waterford, by the Cohoes falls, the distance is about the same as by Troy, (4 miles.) West Troy or Port Schuyler, which may be consider- ed a continuation of Watervliet, owes its origin and growth to the Erie canal, which passes through the vil- lage, and ffom which there is a side cut to a basin in the river. The Junction of the Erie and Northern canals is two miles farther. Here, within the space of three quarters of a mile, are 17 locks; and the number of boats constantly passing through, present a spectacle of activity and business of a highly novel charac- ter. The locks are of the best workmanship, and are justly ranked among the most important works t)n the canal. About a mile farther, the Mohawk river is crossed by an excellent bridge in full view of the Cohoes Falls, wich are a short distance above. The perpendicular fall is about 40, and including the descent above, about 70 feet. The lofty barrier of rocks which confine the course of the Mohawk — the distant roar of the cataract — the dashing of the waters as they descend in rapids beneath you — and the strik- ing contrast of the torrent with the solitude of the scenery above, contribute to render the whole an unu- sual scene of sublimity and grandeur. An old tradition VAN schaick's island. 145 states, that a chief of the Mohawks attempting to cross in his canoe, embarked too near the current of the falls to escape their descent. I'inding himself unable to re- sist the influence of the current, which hurried him fast to the summit, with true Indian heroism, he turned his canoe into the stream, assumed his station at the helm, and with a paddle in one hand and his bottle in the oth- er, was precipitated over the brink. It was in taking a view of these falls, about 35 years since, that the poet Moore composed one of his best fugitive pieces. In- deed, the scenery and every thing connected with this interesting spot, are calculated to afford ample subjects for the poet and painter. Between this place and Schenectady, (noticed in a subsequent page,) the canal is carried twice across the Mohfiwk. The lower aqueduct, as it is called, 2i miles from the falls, is 11S8 feet long, and rests on 26 stone piers and abutments — the other aqueduct, 12 miles fur- ther, is 750 feet long, and rests on 16 piers. These works were completed at great expense, and must have required immense labor. From the Falls to Waterford (noticed at page 143) is one mile. Van Schaick's Island is situated in the vicinity of Waterford, and is formed by the sprouts of the Mo- hawk river joining with the Hudson river, 9 miles north of Albany. This spot is noted for being the head quar- ters of the American army in 1777 ; from whence they marched, in September of the same year, to the decisive victory over Burgoyne, at Bemus' Heights. 146 SHAKER SETTLEMENT. The Shaker settlement at Niskayiina, is 8 milefe' north-west of Albany. A visit to these singular pec pie is well deserv^inrr the attention of the traveller. The Shakers arc the followers of Ann Lee, called by them Mother Ann, a religious enthusiast, who was born in England some time antecedent to the revolutionary war, and while yet in her yoiith, suffered much tribula- tion and deep exercises of spirit, in her conversion from the sin of this world to a state of greater perfec- tion. She endured severe trials and much persecu- tion, according to her own account, from her country- men ; but was afterwards favored with visions and an exhibition of miracles in her favor. Although in early life herself the wife of a poor blacksmith, the principal tenet of her creed is absolute and entire celib- acy, which is defended on various spiritual grounds, and fully set forth in a work recently published by the society. In consequence of the persecutions experi- enced by Mother Ann in England, she came to this country and established a small society which has been followed by the establishment of others, of which this is one. Her followers regard her memory with pious veneration, and consider themselves as the only people in possession of the true light. Some of the oldest and most perfect members, it is said, pretend to " speak with tongues," heal diseases by a touch, &c. The marriage contract is dissolved on joining their society ; their association is a perfect community of goods, all private property being thrown into the common stock, and they profess to banish the love of ambition, wealth and luxury from their gloomy territories. SHAKEK SETTLEMENt. 14T They own at this place two thousand acres of excel- lent land, laid out and kept in the order, neatness and cleanliness, which always distinguish their sect. This is divided into four farms, or families, as they are call- ed, occupied by about seventy-five persons each, of both sexes and all ages. They cultivate garden stuffs, seeds, &c. for sale, as well as every thing necessary for their own support, and they manufacture various use- ful and ornamental articles. These, as well as the sur- plus produce of the farm, are sold, and the avails de- posited in one of the Albany banks until required. The division of labor which they carry into practice, every occupation being entrusted to separate members, and their econominal habits, render their gains very considerable. The men work as farmers, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, &c. ; the women at weaving, spin- ning, washing, cooking, and in the duties of the farm, making and mending clothes, the occupations of each sex being performed in separate buildings. They also eat separately, and neither of them will sit down to a meal with what they call the " world's people." The dress of the men is the usual quaker drab, perfectly plain ; that of the women grey, with white caps, all made as plain and easy as possible. They all have a peculiar walk, but especially the females, in conse- quence of their mode of worship, from which they de- rive the name of Shakers — a strange and disagreeable mode of dancing, accompanied with a monotonous gong. The young members of the community are reg- ularly taught the steps in this dance by the older ones, before they are permitted to join in public worship. It /3 usual before the admission of a member to all the 143 orfARiJR SETTLEMENT. privileges of the society, to impose a noviciate of three months, when, if he so desires, he may leave them ; if not, he is regularly admitted a member, and throws his property into the common stock. Notwithstanding the severity of their discipline as to celibacy, it is said the harmony of their society was lately much disturbed in consequence of a "love affair." A young man and woman, both belonging to the socie- ty, in despite of the doctrines of their leader, fell from their estate of " single blessedness," and yielded to a worldly attachment. This heresy, as might be expect- ed, produced considerable commotion. The members wrestled with the tempter, and the elders prayed for and with the victims to the dreaded enemy of the sect ; but all to no purpose. They left the society and were married. It is creditable, however, to the members, that after finding their efforts to prevent this result unavail- ing, they sent the happy pair sufficient furniture for comfortable house-keeping, assigning as a reason that they had labored for the society, and that it was no more than justice to reward them.* Stages leave Albany daily for Lebanon Springs and Boston ; and Steam Boats leave for New- York at 7 A. M. and 4 P. M. * Since the foregoing event, we are t.»ld another de- reliction from the rules of Mother Ann has taken place in the society, which also resulted in marriage. FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 149 FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. BY RAIL ROAD.* The distance from Albany to Saratoga Springs is 36i miles, as follows : Miles, From Albany to Bu- el's Farm, 3 Schenectady, 12 Miles. Ballston Lake, 10 Ballston Spa, 5 Saratoga Springs, ... 6| The route is by the way of the Mohawk and Hud- son and the Saratoga and Schenectady rail roads, the line being continuous to Saratoga Springs, and a pas- sage effected in about four hours. The carriages of the Mohawk and Hudson company start several times a day from the depot on the north side of State street, a little below the Capitol Square in Albany, and the trains on the Saratoga and Schenectady road are made to correspond therewith. By means of these improve- ments, a ride to the Springs, which was formerly tardy, and attended with clouds of dust and much fatigue and lassitude of body, now constitutes one of the greatest sources of novelty and pleasure in a visit to those cele- brated fountains of health. Freed from all care or ap- prehension of danger, the travellar glides through a country diversified with much interesting scenery, encountering in his course, from the rapidity of the mo- tion, a current of air sufficient to render even a sum- * Since the completion of the rail roads, this is the usual route now taken from Albany to Whitehall, Montreal, &c. the distance being about the same as by the old road, and the route being performed several hours sooner. 150 MOHAWK AND HUDSON RAIL ROAD. mer's sun agreeable, and finds himself at the far-famed Saratoga, ere he is aware that it is possible he can have overcome the distance in so short a space of time. The Mohawk and Hudson Rail Road, was com- menced in the summer of 1830, and a single track so far completed, that passengers were conveyed over 12| miles thereof in one year thereafter. Since then, a second track has been made, and a branch constructed from State street in Albany, which unites with the main road, about 2^ miles from the city. The main line commences on the Hudson river, about a mile south of State street, and crosses South Pearl street, under a fine stone arch of durable materials and hand- some construction ; from whence it passes up the hill with an inclination of one foot in eighteen until it reaches the summit, one hundred and eighty-five feet above the Hudson. At this place a building is erected which contains a double stationary engine, estimated at twelve horse power, Vv'hich is used in hauling freight waggons up the plane. The road then proceeds north-w^esterly up to the head of Lydius street, and passes over two heavy and high embankments, and through two or three deep cut- tings near the alms-house. From the head of Lydius street, it proceeds in a per- fectly straight line, (with the exception of a small curve, which, with most people, passes unnoticed,) for 12 miles, crossing the heavy embankment called the Buel viaduct, and ascending a plane of about three miles, of one foot in 225. Afterwards ascending b}^ two or three other planes of different points, and crossing several water-ways upon embankments, it proceeds to the I MOHAWK AND HUDSON RAIL ROAD. 151 Schenectady summit. The ascent to this summit from the level of the Hudson is 335 feet. At this point, to which we have in imagination conducted our readers, a beautiful view is obtained of the Erie canal, the Mohawk river, and the city of Schenectady. A double stationary engine is placed here and may thus be described : In the cellar of a house which is built on stone foundations across the road, and on the north side, are placed the boilers. The steam is conducted into two horizontal cylinders, firmly secured, 7^ inches in diameter. The shackle bars are connected with an axle, on the extrem- ity of which is a crown wheel, working in another at right angles,.on a shaft placed vertically. This vertical shaft carries at its upper end, which is near the surface of the road and directly in its centre, a large wheel, around the circumference of wliieh the hauling ropes pass, and run on rollers placed at regular distances down the plane. The plane overcomes a height of 115 feet, with an inclination like that near the Hudson, and running down a heavy embankment, strikes the Saratoga and Schenectady rail road and the Erie canal about half a mile from the principal street in Schenec- tady ; but the track is prolonged upon a level to State street, opposite Davis' Hotel. The soil through which the road passes is generally sandy. Some considerable elevations are cut through, and several ravines crossed. The slopes left by the cutting, or Sormed by the embankment, are mostly cov- ered by sods. No settling of the road has taken place except to a very slight degtee in some of the embank- ments, which is easily rectified. N 152 buel's farm. With the exception of the embankments, stone blocks are principally used to support the rails, which are Nor- way pine, plated with iron. The blocks rest on broken stone well rammed down in trenches ; and the entire workmanship of the road, which was under the direc- tion of J. B. Jervis, Esq. as engineer, is probably not surpassed by any construction of the kind in this coun- try or in Europe. Passengers are carried upon this road in coaches, drawn by horses, and by locomotive engines. A part of the coaches are built like the common post coaches, peculiar to our own country, carrying from 9 to 12 passengers; and a part are constructed some- what similar to those used on the Manchester and Liv- erpool road, accommodating from 18 to 24 passengers each, divided into apartments of six or eight. The entire cost of this road, including carriages and fixtures, has been about ,$900,000. The Farm of Jesse Buel. Esq. is crossed by the rail road, about three miles from Albany. It consists of 80 acres, has been wholly reclaimed from commons jince 1818, and is now under profitable cultivation. Mr. B.'s improvements consist in selecting the best im- plements adapted to his soil — in substituting fallow crops for naked fallows — in extensively and successful- ly cultivating the Swedish and common turnip as a se- cond crop, after clover and small grains — in introducing new and valuable grasses — in the cvdtivation of five fences, which he has growing ot' the white European thorn, of the native thorn of our woods, and of the three thomed or honey locust — and in the economy and ap- plication of ordinary, and tie use oC new manures. His SCHENECTADY. 153 object has been to grow only good crops, and these with the least expense. As early as 1827, he sold from 64 acres in tillage and grass, under iarm culture, produce to the amount of more than ,$1500, exclusive of the consump- tion of a large family. His kitchen and flower gar- dens, abounding in the finest native and foreign fruits, ornamental trees, shrubs and flowers, will also be visit- ed with interest. Upon the same farm is the Albany Nursery, which is under the management of Messrs. Buel & Wilson. It already covers 10 or 12 acres, and is extended annually, embracing not only the most choice American fruits and ornamental plants, but also the finer varieties of France, Germany, Eng- land, &c. many of which have been received from the London Horticulural Society, of which Mr. B. was elected a corresponding member in 1824. Attached to this establishment is a green house, containing an ex- tensive collection of beautiful exotics, among which are several varieties of the splendid Cornelia or Japan rose, and other rare Asiatic plants. There are few es- tablishments of the kind, indeed, in the country, pos- sessing more interest, or entitling their proprietors to greater commendation. SCHENECTADY, Fifteen miles from Albany, and 21 § from Saratoga Springs, is situated on tlie Mohawk, a broad and beau- tiful river, which forms its northern boundary. It was burnt by the Indians in 1690, and suflfered a considerable conflag-ration in 1819, since wliich event the antique appearance of the city has been much improved by the introduction of modern architecture. The principal 154 SCHENECTADY. Hotel is kept by Mr. Davis, (formerly Givens,) in the south-east part of the city and within a few rods of the Ei-ie canal. The building is constructed of brick, 50 feet front, and with its wings, 2 stories high, exclusive of the basement story, extends back 150 feet. The main building is 3 stories in height, besides an attic story, containing an apartment for a billiard room. From this elevated spot a view may be had of the city and its environs, of the Mohawk and of the canal for some dis- tance, and of the rich and variegated landscape which spreads on the south and west of the city. The Hotel can accommodate 130 guests ; and they receive every attention and accommodation that can contribute to their convention and amusement. Union College is built on an eminence, which overlooks the city and the Mohawk for a number of miles. The college consists at present of two brick edifices, but the plan includes a chapel and other buildings hereafter to be erected, in the rear, and between those already constructed. At this institution about 200 students are educated annu- ally. The expense per annum is $130. In numbers and respectability Union College may be ranked among the most favored seminaries in our country. A hand- some bridge has been constructed across the Mohawk, at the west end of the city, 997 feet in length, and is passed by the Saratoga and Schenectady Rail Road and by the stage on its route to Utica. The city contains two banks, two printing offices, six churches, a spacious and handsome city hall, and a population of about 5000 inhabitants. SARATOGA AND SCHENECTADY RAIL ROAD. 155 At Schenectady, stages and packet boats leave three times a day for Utica, the route to which is noticed in the subsequent pages of this work. The Saratoga and Schenectady Rail Road com- mences on the north side of the Erie canal, in Sche- nectady, near the Mohawk and Hudson road, (with which it is connected by a bridge,) and extends across the city through an excavation about 12 feet deep, which is walled on either side, to the Mohawk bridge over the Mohawk river. A double track is made on the bridge, so that no interruption or inconvenience is experienced on the part of rail road or other passengers. From the bridge the road extends in a northerly direc- tion over an embankment, varying from 8 to 25 feet high, across the Mohawk flats, for 3 fourths of a mile, to a sand hill, which is cut through at a depth of from 30 to 40 feet. From thence the road pursues a north- easterly direction, in full view of the Mohawk river, un- til it enters the valley of the Eel place creek ; when it curves and maintains a northerly course, passing along the elegant and verdant banks of the Ballston Lake, and enters tiie eastern part of the village of Ballston Spa, on a curvature of considerable extent. From this point the road passes in a northerly direction over the main street, on a bridge about 15 feet high, and by means of a heavy embankment, reaches the high grounds north of the village. From thence a north-easterly course is taken across the Kayaderosseras creek, over a sub- stantial bridge, and continues in a straight line, with the exception of two slight curves, to Saratoga Springs. It enters the latter place at the south-west part of the village, and runs for a short distance nearly parallel n2 156 SARATOGA AND SCHENECTADY RAIL ROAD. with the main street, when it curves up to the same on elevated ground immediately north of the United States Hotel, and in full view of the principal public establish- ments. The road is about 21^ miles long, and is over a re- markably level country, not requiring the use of sta- tionary power, and not having on any part an inclina- tion of more than 16 feet per mile. With the excep- tion of about 3 miles of stone blocks, near Saratoga Springs, the road is made of substantial and durable wooden materials, saving the iron rails. The ceremony of first breaking the ground was per- formed at Saratoga Springs, by the Hon. C. C. Cam- BRELENG, the then President of the company, on the 20th of August, 1831, on which occasion a pertinent address was delivered by the Hon. Esek Cowen, and the work actively commenced about the 10th of September fol- lowing. The grading was well advanced in the au- tumn, and carriages placed on the road for the convey- ance of passengers on the 12th of July following. The entire cost of the road, including carriages, engines, fix- tures, land, &c. was about $300,000. The carriages are unusually elegant and spacious, and the travel has already much exceeded the public expectations. Indeed, little doubt remains of the road proving an advantageous and profitable investment to the stockholders ; for besides the ordinary summer trav- el to the Springs, which is annually increasing, and wliich this road will tend very much to augment, it is likely to prove the great thoroughfare between Albany and the Canadas. One half of the distance from Alba- ny to Whitehall on Lake Champlain, by this route is balLston spa. 157 overcome by rail road ; and the distance being about the same as by the old travelled road, and the time em- ployed in passing from one point of the other lessened by several hours, few travellers hesitate in giving it a decided preference. Ballston Lake, or Long Lake, as it is sometimes called, is 10 miles from Schenectady, the rail road pass- ing aloag its verdant and elegant banks. A farm house between the lake and road, owned by Mr. Elisha Cur- tis, and which he contensplates fitting up for the accom- modation of fishing parties, was formerly the residence of a Mr. M' Donald, the guide of Sir William Johnson, on his first visit to the mineral springs at Saratoga, in 1767. Mr. M'D. v/as a native of Ireland, and on his first arrival in America, settled with his brother, in 1763 on this spot, where he continued to reside until his de- cease, in 1823. Sir William passed some days at this house at the time of the visit above mentioned. The lake is a beautiful sheet of water 5 miles long and 1 broad. The scenery around affords a pleasing land- scape of cultivation and wood lands, no less inviting to the sportsn;an than the soft bosom of the lake and its finny inhabitants to the amateurs of the rod, BALLSTON SPA, Is 5 miles farther. The village lies in the town of Milton, in the county of Saratoga ; and is situated in a low valley, through the centre of which flows a branch of the Kayaderosseras, with whose waters it mingles at the east end of the village. The natural boundaries of Ballston Spa are well defined by steep and lofty hills of sand on the north and west, and by a ridge of land 15S BALLSTON SPA. which gradually slopes inward, and encircles the vil- lage on the south and east. The broad and ample Kayaderosseras, whose stream gives motion to a neigh- boring mill, flows on the north-east boundary of the village, and furnishes a favorite resort for the sports- man on the bosom of its waters, or for the loiterer along its verdant banks. The village was incorporated in 1807, and is under the direction of a board of trus- tees, who are chosen annually. It contains 150 houses, and about 1000 inhabitants. Besides the court house for the county, and the clerk's office, which are located here, there is an Episcopal and a Baptist church, two printing offices and a book-store, with which a reading room is connected for the accommodation of visitants. Ballston Spa principally derives its celebrity from the mineral springs which flow here and at Saratoga in equal abundance. The spring first discovered in the vicinity stands on the flat, nearly opposite the board- ing establishment of Mr. A.ldridge. It formerly flowed out of a common barrel, sunk around it, without any other protection from the invasion of cattle, who often slacked their thirst in its fountain. Afterwards the liberality of the citizens was displayed in a marble curb and flagging, and a handsome iron railing. The curb and flagging were finally removed, leaving the raihng, which still serves the purposes of ornament and pro- tection. The spring flows now, probably, from the place where it originally issued, some feet below the surrounding surface, which has been elevated by addi- tions of earth, for the purpose of improving the road in which it stands. BALLSTOK SPA. 159 Near this spring, in boring five or six years since, a mineral fountain called the New Washington Spring, was discovered at a considerable depth beneath the surface. Its qualities are somewhat similar to those of the spring last mentioned. The Sans Souci Spring is situated in the rear of the Sans Souci, and is considered the most prominent foun- tain in the village. According to an analysis of Doct. Steel, one gallon of the water contained the following ingredients : cloride of sodium, 143f grs. ; bicarbonate of soda I2h grs. ; bicarbonate of magnesia, 39 grs. ; carbonate of lime, nearly 6 grs. ; hydriodate of soda, li grs. ; silix, 1 gr. Near this fountain a large and com- modious bathing house has been erected ; to which, not only the waters of this, but of a number of other adjacent springs, are tributary, for the purpose of bath- ing. Between the springs already mentioned, there was discovered in the summer of 1817, a mineral spring, called the Washington Fountain. This latter spring rose on the margin of the creek in front of the factory building ; it flowed through a curb 28 feet in length sunk to the depth of 23 feet, and was liberated at the top in the form of a beautiful jet (Veau ; but the spring disappeared in 1821. Numerous attempts have since been made to recover it, but they have proved fruitless. Low's Srring is near the Sans Souci, and is very similar in its qualities and properties. The Park vSpring is in the rear of the Village Hotel, and was obtained by boring to a depth of 270 feet. A copious stream flows therefrom, tastefully displayed in a iiiiiall basin, secured at the top of the tube which con- 160 BALLSTON SPA- tJncta the water to the surface. The water, however, affords nnSich less of the saline substances than either of the other springs. The principal ingredients of these waters consist of muriate of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of limey carbonate of magnesia, and carbonate of iron ; all of which, in a greater or less degree, enter into the com- position of the waters, both here and at Saratoga. The principal boarding houses are the Sans Souci, Aldridge's, the Mansion House, the Village Hptel, and the Temperance House. The Sans Souci, with its 3'ards and out houses, oc- cupies an area of some acres in the cast part of the vil- lage. The plan of the building, with the extensive im- provements around it, do much credit to the taste and liberality of its proprietor. The establishment was for- merly the property of a Mr. Low, of New- York ; from whom it passed into the hands of Mr. Loomis, its present owner, and under whose management the most entire satisfaction is given to its annual visitants. The edifice is constructed of wood, tliree stories high, 16Q feet in length, with two wings extending back 153 feet^ and is calculated for the accommodation of 130 board- ers. It is surrounded by a beautiful yard, ornamented w^ith a variety of trees and shrubbery, whicii, with its extensive piazzas and spacious halls, render it a delight- ful retreat during the oppressive heat of summer. Aldridge's Boarding house, with which is connect- eed an extensive garden, at the west end of the vil- lage, affords excellent accommodations, and receives a handsome patronage. Its more retired location, and the profusion of rural scenery around it, as well as BALLSTON SPA. 161 the deserved reputation of the estabUshment, will al- ways determine the choice of a portion of visitants dur- ing their transient residence at the Springs. The Mansion House, kept by Mr. Seaman, is loca- ted immediately east of the rail road bridge which cross- es the main street. It is one of the best pubhc houses in the country — is well furnished, and kept in a style highly creditable to its popular tenant. The Village Hotel, is in a convenient situation a few rods west of the Sans Souci. It is kept by the proprietor, Mr. Clark, and is in every respect an agree- able and pleasant boarding place. The Temperance Hotjse, by Mr. M'Omber, is located in the east part of the village, and is a com- modious and highly respectable estabhshment. Mrs. M'M aster's is a private boarding Kiuse, sit- uated adjacent to the spring on the flp* in the west part of the village. Those who ar'^ ^ond of a retired situation, will be much gratified-' this place, and with- al will find a hospitable ho="-ess, and very excellent ac- commodation^, at a p'^derate price. The r^^ce of board per week, at the several houses, is Com $3 to $8. Mails arrive and depart by way of the rail road, to and from Ballston Spa, every day in the week. Be- sides a post office at the village, there is one in the town of Ballston, about three miles distant, to which letters are frequently missent, owing to the neglect of corres- porKients in making the proper direction. 162 SARATOGA SPRINGS. The reading room and library may be resorted to at all times, and for a moderate compensation. Papers are there furnished from all parts of the Union. SARATOGA SPRINGS. Is situated north-easterly from Ballston SpaG^ miles, and 36i miles from the city of Albany. The village is located on an elevated spot of ground, surrounded by a productive level country, and enjoys, if not the advan- tage of prospect, at least the advantage of a salubrious air and climate, contributing much to the health and benefit of its numerous visitants. The springs, so just- ly celebrated for their medicinal virtues, are situated on the margin of a vale, bordering the village on the east, and are a continuation of a chain of springs discovering themselves about 12 miles to the south, in the town of Ballston, and extending easterly in the form of a cres- cent, to tlrt Q,uaker village. In the immediate vicinity arc 10 or 12 swings, the principal of which are the Con- gress, the Hamiiiv^,, the High Rock, the Columbi- an, the Flat Rock, the "frashington and the President. About a mile east, are found t-^uster of mineral springs which go by the name of the Ten fepringb. THE CONGRESS SPRING Is situated at the south end of the village, and is ovv^ned by Doct. John Clarke; to whose liberality the public are miach indebted for the recent improvements that have been made in the grounds adjoining the fountain, for the purity in which its waters are presen'- SAllATOGA SPRINGS. 163 ed, and for an elegant colonade erected over the spring, affording a convenient promenade to visitants. The spring was first discovered in the summer of 1792, issuing from a crevice in the rock, a few feetfrom its present location. Here it flowed for a number of years, until an attempt to improve the surface around it produced an accidental obstruction of its waters, which afterwards made their apperance at the place where they now flow. It is enclosed by a tube sunk mto the earth to the distance of 12 or 14 feet, which secures it from the water of a stream, adjoining which it is situ- ated. From an analysis made by Doct. Steel, it appears that a gallon of the water contains the following sub- stances : chloride' of sodium, 385 grs. ; hydriodate of soda, 3^ grs.; bicarbonate of soda, nearly 9 grs.; bi- carbonate of magnesia, nearly 96 grs. ; carbonate of lime, a little more than 98 grs.; carbonate of iron, up- wards of 5 grs. ; silix, 1 -1- grs. ; carbonic acid gas, 311 cubic inches ; atmospheric air, 7 do. To this spring perhaps more than any other spot on the globe, are seen repairing in the summer mornings, before breakfast, persons of almost every grade and condition, from the most exalted to the most abject. The beautiful and the deformed — the rich and the poor — the devotee of pleasure and the invalid — all con- gregate here for purposes as various as are their situ- ations in life. To one fond of witnessing the great di- versity in the human character, this place affords an am- ple field for observation. So well, indeed, has it been improved by the little urchins who dip water at thefoun- 164 SARATOGA SPRINGS. tain, that an imposing exterior is sure to procure for its possessor their services ; while individuals less richly ftttired, and whose physiognomy indicate a less liberal disposition, are often compelled to wait till it is more convenient to attend to their wants. Most persons soon become fond of the water ; but the effect on those who taste it for the first time is fre- quently unpleasant. To such, the other fountains are generally more palatable, having a less saline tase than the Congress. The High Rock is situated on the west side of tha Valley, skirting the east side of the village, about half a mile north of the Congress. The rock enclosing this spring is in the shape of a cone, 9 feet in diameter at its base, and 5 feet in height. It seems to have been formed by a concretion of particles thrown up by the water, which formerly flowed over its summit through an aperture of about 12 inches diameter, regularly di- verging from the top of the cone to its base. This spring was visited in the year 1767 by Sir William Johnson, but was known long before by the Indians, who were first led to it, either by accident or by the frequent haunts of beasts, attracted thither by the saline proper- ties of the water. A building was erected near the spot previous to the revolutionary war ; afterwards abandon- ed, and again resumed ; since which the usefulness of the water has, from time to time, occasioned frequent settlements within its vicinity. The water now rises within 2 feetof the summit, and a common notion prevails that it has found a passage through a fissure of the rock occasioned by the fall of a tree; since which event it has ceased to flow over its SARATOGA SP^IINGS. 165 brink. This opinion, however, may be doubted. It is probable that the decay of the rock, which commenced its formation on the natural surface of the earth, may have yielded to the constant motion of the water, and at length opened a passage between its decayed base and the loose earth on which it was formed. This idea is strengthened from tlie external appearance of the rock at its eastern base, which has already been pene- trated by the implements of curiosity a number of inches. Between the Red spring in the upper village, and the Washington in the south part of the lower village, are situated most of the other mineral springs in which this place abounds. At three of the principal springs, the Hamilton, Monroe and Washington, large and conve- nient bathing houses have been erected, which are the constant resort for pleasure as well as health, during the warm season. The mineral waters both at Ballston and Saratoga are supposed to be the product of the same great laba- ratory, and they all possess nearly the same properties, varying only as to (he quantity of the different aE;ticIe9 held in solution. They are denominated acidulous sa- line and acidulous chalybeate. Of the former are the Congress, (which holds the first rank,) the Hamilton, High Rock and President, at Saratoga ; and of the lat- ter are the Columbian, Flat Rock and Washington, at Saratoga, and the Old Spring and San Souci, at Balls- ton. The waters contain muriate of soda, hydriodate of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, oxide of iron, and some of them a minute .-> ci U2 ^ rt 04 a •1-3 o &J0 o C o « ^ o o >-• cS o -a s -Q P u CQ (72 U -. m s ^— " ci o tc c c ■t-> ID o rt a o ^ -2 tS < o Cavui^a, 8 180 159 83 8 120 Seneca Falls, 4 184 163 87 12 116 Waterloo, 4 188 167 91 16 112 Geneva, 7 195 174 98 23 105 Canandaigua, 16 211 190 114 39 89 East Bloornfield, 9 220 199 123 48 80 West Bloomfield, 5 [225 204 128 53 75 Lima, 4 1229 1208 132 57 71 East Avon, 5 1234 |213 137 62 66 Avon Post Office, 2 236 i2 1 5 139 64 64 Caledonia, 8 244 |223 147 72 56 Leroy, 6 250 1229 153 78 50 Batavia, 10 260 l239 163 88 40 Pembroke, 14 274 253 177 102 26 Clarence, 8 282 261 185 110 18 Williamsville, 8 290 209 193 118 10 Buffalo,-... 10 |300 279 203 128 A rail road carriage can be taken at Saratoga Springs three times a day lor Schenectady, the route, together with a description of the city, having been noticed in the preceding pages. At Schenectady stages are taken three times a d:iy for Utica, so that a passage from the Springs to the latter place can be effected in about 12 hours. Fare, from $4 to 4,50. * * A rail road is now constructing between Schenec- tady and Utica. The line is along the north side and in full view of the Mohawk river for most of the distance, and when completed, will afibrd to the tourist one of the most interesting excursions on the continent. STATE ROUTE — CAUGHNAWAGA. 195 Amsterdam, 16 miles west of Schenectady, is the lirst village of any magnitude that is reached on the route. It is located on the north side of the Mohawk river, over which there is a substantial brid,^e. The vil- lage contains about 100 houses, and is destined to be- come a place of considerable importance from its prox- imity to the river and the Erie canal, but more especial- ly so from the creek which passes through the village, and which, within half a mile, falls over a number'^of beautiful cascades, affording admirable facihties for manufacturing operations. The canal is on the south side of the river, and runs parallel therewith for several miles. About one mile from Amsterdam, on the south side of the turnpike, is a stone building, erected by Col. Guy Johnson, son-in-law of Sir William Johnson, which was occupied by the former previous to the revolution j and a little farther west, on the opposite side of the road, IS a stone building which was occupied by Sir John, the son of Sir Wilham. Four miles farther is Tripe Hill, a small village. From whence to Caughnawaga is 6 miles. It has little to render it a place of interest, if we except an antiquated stone church, which has been built between 60 and 70 years, without having undergone any material improvement or change during that period.* „. *.if «?*ST0WN, celebrated as the former residence of bir Wilham Johnson,is 4 miles north-east of this place, SooK^M^P'^^-, The village contains between 2 and 300 buildmgs a bank, court house, jail, 3 churches, an acadea^y, and 2 printing offices. It is situated on a 39€ TORT PLAIN. Twelve miles farther the stage stops at Palatine ; affording a beautiful prospect of the village of Canajo- HARiE, situated on the plain below, and on the banks of the canal. Fort Plai.v, a flourishing little village, is 3 miles west of Palatine, on the opposite side of the river. A fort, from v/hich the place derives its name, was con- stiTicted here during the revolutionary war ; though but handsome plain, with streets running at right angles ; and though many of the buildings are antiquated, yet there are several handsome private residences. The court house, jail and Episcopal church were built by- Sir William ; beneath the latter ofv»-hich his rem.ains now repose. In opening the vault a few years since, it was found to contain so much water that the coffin was actually floating on its surface. The lid, composed, of mahogany, was taken off, and still remains inside of the church. It bears this inscription, formed with brass nails : " Sir Wm Johnson Bt Obiit 1774." The house, or what is called the "Hall," formerly occupied by Sir "VV. is about a mile from the village. Attached to it is a building which was used by him as a fort ; into which he had occasion, at times, to retreat from the assaults of the Indians. The marks of tomahawks are still vis- ible on the stair-case in the main building. The battle of Johnstown, October, 178 1, in which the British and Indians were defeated, was fought on the " Hall" farm. The American troops, consisting of between 4 and 500, were commanded by the venerable Col. Willet, vv'ho lately died at New- York. After the defeat, the enemy were pursued by hinj to the Canada creek, where several were killedj including JNlaj. Butler. Out of 607 of the hostile force sent on this expedition., but 220 returned to Canada. LITTLE FALLS. 197 little of its remains are now to be seen. The place was originally settled by Germans, who suffered severely from the early Indian wars of this country. During the revolution, those who had taken refuge in the fort, were surprised by Capt. Butler, on his return from burn- ing Chery Valley, and became a prey to similar atroci- ties. The East Canada Creek is passed by a substantial bridge, in going 4 miles farther ; from which to Little Falls, is 7 miles. This place takes its name from a cataract in the vicinity, which, in size, is much ^ inferior to the celebrated Cohoes, and has, therefore, been denominated the Little Falls of the Mohawk. A continuation of the chain of Catsbergs crosses the riv- er at this place, and forms a rough bed for the waters of the cataract, which pour over the rocky fragments in the wildest confusion. Approaching from the south- east, a loftly ridge of mountains, frowning in grandeur on either side, conceals the course of the river and the falls, whose vicinity is announced only by the distant din and foam of its waters. For a considerable dis- tance, a narrow pass only is allowed for a road, with immense natural battlements of rock on either side, af- fording a sublime and interesting spectacle. About half a mile from the village the road turns suddenly to the left, presenting a view of the falls tumbling with irresistible violence over a gradual rocky descent of about 80 rods. At the termination of the ascent is sit- uated the village, containing about 250 houses and 2000 inhabitants. A cluster of buildings, rising between 198 LITTLE FALLS. the rushing waters of the Mohawk on the one hand, and the rugged cliffs and eminences on the other ; the smooth current of the stream above gently gliding to the tumultuous scene below, and beyond the distant vale of the Mohawk, diversified with fields, orchards, meadows, and farm houses, all contribute to set off the romantic appearance for which this place is so justly celebrated. This village derives most of its importance from the facilities for trade and commerce aflforded by means of the Mohawk river and the Erie canal. Boats were formerly transported around the falls through a canal on the north side of the river. This old canal contained 8 locks and is now connected with the Erie canal on the south side of the river by means of an aqueduct 184 feet in length. The descent of the Erie canal here, in the distance of one mile, is 40 feet, which is passed by 5 locks. Travellers will ulways find it interesting to spend some time at this place, in viewing its great natural and artificial works. The Aqueduct across the river is one of the finest specimens of masonry on the whole line of the canal, though less stupendous than the locks at Lockport, and, in extent, falling considerably short of the aqueduct at Rochester. The river is passed on three beautiful arches of from 40 to 50 feet in height, with flagging on either side of the canal, and a strong iron railing. After crossing on the flagging, the stran- scr should return on the stone bridge west of the aqueduct ; which being several feet lower, affords a fine view of the arches, and of the extensive basin in the river immediately beneath the centre arch ; formed, doubtless, by the action of round stones set in motion by the water. STAGE ROUTE — LITTLE FALLS. 199 The Erie canal, which is on the south side of the river, winds its way for some distance along the side of a bold and lofty mountain, the channel resting on a wall nearly 30 feet high, constructed from the bed of the river at great expense. The view afforded from a packet boat of mountain scenery on either side, with a bare passage for the dashing waters of the Mohawk between, is highly interesting and sublime. Whichev- er way the eye is turned, it rests on huge, masses of granite and limestone, piled in heaps. These rocks in some places rise to a great height, almost perpendicu- lar, presenting a bleak dark surface, unbleached by the thousand storms which have beat upon them ; others present a rugged and uneven face, crowned and over- hung by dark evergreens, dropping their verdure into the foaming torrent below ; the fissures between others of these huge piles produce hickory, maple and other trees, which hang from them, and with their sombre shadow deepen the gloomy darkness of the rocks from which they spring ; whilst the scanty soil upon others gives life and penurious nourishment to dwarf oaks and vegetation peculiar to similar inhospitable regions. In this scene, where the rude but magnificent works of nature are so profusely displayed, the imagination is overpowered, in their sublimity, and the proudest works of man, and man himself, lose their importance. Even the canal, cut upon the mighty and enduring precipice — the road entrenched upon the mountain side, and the substantial locks and gates, all sink into comparative insignificance under the mighty shadows of the ever- lasting hills. K 200 STAGE ROUTE — LITTLE FALLS. Crystals of quarts, the most translucent, it is believ- ed, of any heretofore discovered in the state, are found in considerable quantities a short distance from the village.* The road, after leaving Little FallS; follows the bank of the river, in full view of the rich alluvial vale called the Herkimer ami German Flats. This region, now glowing in all the beauty of successful cultivation, was once the theatre of the most sanguinary warfare. Du- =^ About 10 miles SE. of this place, on the ravine of a small stream, which empties into the Osquake creek, are some of the most interesting specimens of petrifac- tions ever discovered in the country. They consist of a mass from 20 to 25 feet long, and from 3 to 5 feet in diameter, composed partly of petrifactions and partly of incrustations. The loAver part exhibits the trunk of a hemlock tree, 2 feet in diameter, while the other parts seem to have been formed of fragments of the same kind of tree. The transition from wood to tufa has been effected with so much precision, that the whole ligneous structure of the wood, its concentric layers, coating, or rings, gum, knots, kc. are m.ost perfectly preserved. From some unknown cause, the waters which issued out of the declivity above the mass have failed or been diverted, so that petrifaction has ceased at this spot. But in other parts of the declivity from which waters issue, they are so highly impregnated with calcareous and other matters as to incrust pieces of wood coming within their reach. Not far from this place, the road has been cut through a tufa rock of very large dimensions ; on the sides of which are seen pe- trified pieces of wood imbedded within the mass. When- ever time will permit, mineralogists will find it inter- esting to stop a day at Herkimer, for the purpose of vieiting these extraordinary formations. I ^TAns ROUTE— UTICA. 201 :mg the French and revolutionary wars, it was Ihe scene of many barbarous incursions of the whites as well as savages. It was invaded by the French after the capture of Fort Oswego in i7ijC, and in 1757 the settlements were desolated by fire and sword. In the centre of these flats is situated the village of Herkimer, 8 miles from Little Falls. This village, as well as that of Little Falls, forms :. part of the -town of Herkimer, which extends along the banks of the Mohawk about 15 miles. West Canada Creek enters the river about half a mile east of the village, and \a pa^3sed near its mouth by a well constructed bridge. The village is principally built on two parallel streets. It contains about 130 houses, and not less than 1000 inhabitants. Between Herkimer and Utica is the small but thriving village of Frankfort, about 6 miles from the former and 9 from the latter place. The country after leaving Herkimer is quite level, and remarkably fertile, though not in a high state of cultiva- tion. UTICA. This flourishing place stands on the south bank of the Mohawk river, 94 miles westwardly of Albany. It occupies the scite of old Fort Schuyler, where a gar- rison was kept previous to the revolution. Some re- mains of this fort are still to be seen between the east- ern extremity of Main street and the river. A few Ger- mans were settled here previous to the revolutionary war ; but a part were captured by the Indians and the iremnant sought a place of more security. The first 202 STAGE ROUTE — UTICA, permanent settler established himself about 4 miles wesC of Fort Schuyler in 1784. Five years afterwards a few families established themselves on the scite of the pre- sent towm. In 1 798 a village charter was granted ; and in 1832, the place was incorporated into a city. In 1813, it contained 1700 inhabitants ; in I8l6, 2828 ; in 1820, 2972 ; in 1823, 4017 ; in 1826, 6040 ; in 1828, 7460; and in 1830, 8323. The city is regularly laid out, the streets of good width, and mostly paved. Gen- esee street, in particular, is peculiarly pleasant, and for the most part adorned with elegant stores and dwel- lings. There are numerous literary, benevolent and reli- gious institutions in this place. Among these the Onei- da Institute of Science and Industry is perhaps most worthy of remark, from its uniting manual with men- tal labor on the part of the students. There is a farm attached to" it comprising one hundred and fourteen acres, upon which each student labors from three to four hours per day, and it is said that the experiment thus far has proved, that labor from 3 to 5 hours per day pays the board of the student in this plentiful region. It is principally intended for the education of those de- signed for the ministry, but its privileges are common to all youth of unexceptionable character. There are also a classical academy, a hbrary, a county and city lyceum, a gymnasium, two seminaries for young ladies, a seminary called the Clinton Institute, 14 churches, some of which are very elegant, 3 banks, 9 printing offices, and 12 newspapers and periodical publications. Hotels. — The principal hotels, which are in Gene- see street, are Bagg's, near the Mohawk river, one of StlGfi ROUTE — UTiCA. SOS tile best furnished and best kept houses in the state ; City Hotel, by H. Mason, south of the canal ; Canal Coffee House, by Mr. Shepherd, near the canal ; Frank- lin House, south of the canal ; National Hotel, by Messrs. Pratt & Sanger, north side of the canal ; Tem- perance House, do. do. These are all excellent estab- lishments, fitted up in a superior style, and are hberal- iy patronized. The lands adjoining Utica are richly cultivated, pre* senting a succession of beautiful farms and country scats. There are also various objects of attraction in the vicinity, a visit to which may be ranked among the pleasures of an excursion to the w^est. Of these are Trenton Falls, at the nortli ; and Whitesborough, the York Mills, Clinton Village containing Hamilton Col- lege, and Rome, all v/lthin a few miles in a westerly direction. From what is called tlie summit, an elevated spot near the village, a charming prospect may be had of the adjacent country, and particularly of the vale of the Mohawk for several miles in extent, including the beautiful and diversified farms which rise in a gentle acclivity from the river. Packets. — Three daily lines of packets run betweeft Utica and Schenectady. The first line leaves Utica at 7k A. M. ; the second at 3 P. M. ; and the third at 7 P. M. From 18 to 20 hours are occupied in the passage. Packet boats also leave for Rochester, 160 miles dis- tant, at half past one P. M. and at 4 P. M., going thro' in about 36 hours. The Buffalo packets leave at half past 1 P, M., and are three days on their passage. Tlie r2 204 STAGE ROUTE — UTlCA. Utica and Oswego packets leave Ulica daily on the ar rival of the last boat from Schenectady in the afternoon. The Chitteningo and Syracuse packets leave Utica at 6 P.M. Stages to the West.— The mail stage for Buffalo, 203 miles, and Lewiston, leaves daily at 5 A. M. ; through in 3 days by day light only. The Telegraph, for Buffalo, leaves daily at 4 A. M. ; through in 33 to 36 hours ; limited to six passengers. The Eagle, for Rochester, 140 miles, leaves daily at 10 A. M., or on the arrival of the packets from Sche- nectady ; through in 30 hours. The Pilot for Buffalo, leaves daily at 6 P. M. ; thro' in. 40 to 44 hours. Extra coaches, with regular relays of horses, are also furnished at all times for Niagara Falls, 220 miles, and for Trenton Falls, 15 miles. Stages to the East. — 'The Telegraph and Eclipse, limited to 6 passengers each, leave daily from 7 to 8 A. M., and arrive at Schenectad}^ 76 miles, in 12 hours. The Pilot, for Schenectady, leaves daily at 9 A. M. end arrives in time for the evening rail road car for Al- bany. The stage fare from Utica to Canandaigua, 114 miles, is $3,50; from Utica to Rochester, 140 miles, from $4 to S;4,50 ; and from Utica to Buffalo, 203 mileb, §6,50. Among the excursions afforded to the traveller while at Utica, none, perhaps, will prove more interesting than a visit to treKton falls. tOS Trenton Falls, 15 miles north of the city. A de- scription of these falls has been obligingly furnished to the editor of this work by James Macaulet, Esq., au- thor of a History of the State ol New-York, (a work of much merit, recently published) from which the follow- ing extracts are made : " These renowned Falls are on West Canada creek, between 22 and 21 miles above its confluence with the Mohawk. The creek is a powerful stream, and con- stitutes almost one half of the river at the coalescence. The falls commence a little above the high bridge on the Black river road, and terminate at Conrad's mills, occupying an extent of rather over two miles, being 6 in number, " The creek in its way from the summit of the high- lands of Black river to its lower valley, lying between the latter and Hassenclever mountain, crosses a ridge of limestone 4 or 5 miles in breadth, stretching through the country from the Mohawk to the St. Lawrence. Its course over this ridge by its tortuous bed is 6 or 7 miles, 2^ of which are above the falls. The waters of the creek, soon after they have reached the limestone, move with accelerated strides over the naked rocks to the head of the upper fall, where they are precipitated 18 or 20 feet down an abrupt ledge into a spacious ba- sin. The whole descent to the head of this fall in the last 2 miles is computed at 60 feet. Here a deep and winding ravine begins, which extends dovv^n the stream more than 2 miles. Its average depth is estimated at 100 feet, and its average breadth at the top, 'iOO, The sides and bottom consist of limestone disposed in hori- zontal layers, varying in thickness from some inches to 306 tiflEHTON FALLS, a foot and upwards, and abound with organic remains.^ The sides of the ravine are shelving, perpendicular and overhanging ; and some of the trees that have taken root in the fissures of the rocks are now pendant over the abyss, where they form the most fanciful appear- ances imaginable. The country along, and neighbor- ing the ravine, descends to the south and is mostly cov- ered with woods which exclude every appearance till you arrive at the very verge. Of the six falls, that above the high bridge on the Black river road, is called the Upper, and that at the end of the ravine, Conrad's Fall. The first in the ravine is a mile below the high bridge, and is denominated the Cascades ; the second, a little lower down, is called the Mill-dam ; the third, by way of eminence, are called the High Falls, and are 40 rods below the preceding ; the fourth is nearly 70 rods below the High Falls, and is called Sherman's. All these are formed by solid reefs of rocks which cross the bed of the stream. " The water at the Upper Fall descends 18 or 20 feet perpendicularly. Below, there is a capacious basin, out of which the stream issues in a diminished bed in- to the ravine, the entrance of which is between lofty barriers of rocks. This fall, when viewed from the bridge, or from the high ground west of the creek, has a fine appearance. " At the Cascades, consisting of 2 pitches, with in- tervening rapids, the water falls 18 feet. The bed of the stream is here contracted, and the sides serrated^ the banks of the ravine rising with abruptness almost directly in the rear. " The Mill-dam Fall, which is the second within the TRENTON FALLS. 207 ravine, has an abrupt descent of 14 feet, the stream be- ing about 60 yards broad at the break. " The High Falls are 40 rods below the latter, and consist of 3 distinct falls, with intervening slopes and some small pitches. The first has a perpendicular de- scent of 48 feet; in floods and rises, the water covers the whole break and descends in one sheet ; but at other times, mostly in two grooves at the west side of the fall. The second has a descent of about 11 fe et the third 37 feet ; and the three, including the slopes and pitches, 109 feet. In freshets and floods, the en- tire bed at the High Falls is covered with water of a milk white color, and the spray which at such times ascends in pillars towards the sky, when acted upon by the rays of the sun, exhibits the rainbow in all its brilliant colors. "The fourth fall is Sherman's, and is distant nearly 70 rods from the High Falls. The descent is 33 feet when the stream is low, and 37 when high. In droughts, the water pitches down at the west side. " The last fall is at Conrad's mills, at the very foot of the ravine, and is 6 feet. " Besides the falls, there are several raceways or chutes, from 10 to 20 rods long, through which the waters pass with great rapidity. The whole depres- sion of the stream from the top of the Upper Fall above the high bridge to the foot of Conrad's, is 312 feet; and if we add the descent above the Upper Fall, which is computed to be 60 feet, and that below Conrad's fall in half a mile, which is estimated at 15 feet, we shall find that the entire depression in less than 5 miles, is 387 feet. '08 TnEN'TOK Falls. "The falls, raceways and rapids, and, in truth, the whole bed witliiii the ravine, exhibit very different ap- pearances at different times. These are occasioned by the elevations and depressions of the stream. In floods, the whole is one tremendous rapid, with four cataracts and several chutes. " The best time to visit these falls is when the stream is low, because then there is no inconvenience or diffi- culty in ascending the ravine from the foot of Sher- man's stairway to the head of the upper raceway. Few persons who visit them have resolution to ascend the ravine from the stairway to the basin at the upper fall. This, however is not be wondered at, because the lofty rocky barriers which constitute the sides of the ravine advance to the water's edge in many places, and terminate in frightful projections, which cannot be passed without the most imminent danger. Some of these difficulties, however, have been obviated by blast- ing away portions of the rocks and putting up chains ; and persons now go up to the upper raceway without hazard. " The ravine, with some few exceptions, is still bor- dered by woods, and persons desirous of visiting the falls are obliged to go to what is called Sherman's .house, from whence they proceed through the woods by some rude paths. One of these leads to the stair- way, which descends to the bottom of the ravine, and another leads up to the High Falls. The former is us- ually preferred. On reaching the strand, at the foot ot the stairway, you proceed up the stream at first upon the strand, and then by a narrow winding foot path to Sherman's fall. From thence you advance to the TRENTON FALLS. 209 High Falls, a part of the way being overhung by large jutting rocks which menace you Mith destruction. From the head of the High Falls to the upper end of the raceway above the Cascades, the way i& easy when the stream is low, but from thence upwardly it is diffi- cult and dangerous. ■' While you are passing along the narrow and sinu- ous path leading by the projections, and by the brinks of headlong precipices, you tremble with reverential awe, when you consider that one false step might pre- cipitate you into the resistless torrent below, and in an instant consign you to a watery grave. You see what a feeble creature man is, and are forcibly impressed with ideas of the wisdom and power of that mighty Being who commanded the earth to emerge from the deep and the waters to flow. " Along the bottom ana lower parts of the ravine, numerous organic remains are found enveloped in the rocks which are easily divisible. The remains he flat in or between the larnince, their contours and compo- nent parts usually being little distorted from their orig- inal shape and dimensions. Sometimes there is defect occasioned in the transition from the animal to the stony or fossil state ; but, in most instances, all the parts are so completely defined, that not only the order but the genera and species may be recognized. These remains are casil}^ separated from the layers in which they are enclosed. Their exteriors are commonly glos- sy, often very smooth, and ordinarily of a dark color, being transformed into stone, and constituting integral parts of the rocks which envelope them. From a care- 210 STAGE ROUTE — MANCHESTER. ful examination of certain of these remains, and their positions, we are led to beUve that their prototypes lived and died on the spot, and that the rocks in which they are entombed are of posterior formation." Accommodations for visitants are furnished at Sher- man's, the only house kept at the falls for that pur- pose. Ladies who resort thither, should be furnished with calfskin shoes or bootees. They not only owe it to their health to be thus provided, but the best pair of cloth shoes will be ruined by a single excursion over these rocks. Returning to Utica, the traveller, in pursuing a jour- ney to the west by stage, first reaches the pleasant village of New-Hartford, 4 miles from Utica, containing about 150 dwellings and stores, and three churches, be- sides a number of mills and manufactories, located on the Sadaquada creek. The land between Utica and New-Hartford is level and of an excellent quality, and resembles, with its neat and regular enclosures, an ex- tensive and highly cultivated garden. There are in the vicinity many country residences, constructed and im- proved with much taste and elegance. One mile from New-Hartford, a tolerably good view of Hamilton College, 3 or 4 miles distant at the S. W. is obtained; but on ascending a more elevated posi- tion one mile farther, the prospect of the college and several adjoining buildings, is very distinct and beau- tiful. Manchester is 5 miles from New-Hartford ; and the country between the two villages exhibits some of STAGE ROUTE — LENOX. 211 the most highly cultivated and delightful farms in the state. Vernon, S miles from Manchester, is a flourishing town of some magnitude. It contains two churches, a number of mills and a glass factory. Oneida Castle, 5 miles from Vernon, is situated on the Oneida creek, within what was formerly the Oneida Reservation. Here was a considerable settle- ment, possessed by the Oneida and Tuscarora Indi- ans ; most of whom recently removed to the country west of the Michigan lake. This tribe entered the service of the state, as volunteers, during the late war. The lands in this reservation while possessed by the Indians were but indifferently cultivated, and assumed a miserable aspect in comparison with the rich and highly improved farms on either side. But they are now yielding to the culture of the whites, and will ulti- mately present a succession of beautiful and luxuriant farms. In passing over an elevated tract, a chain of lofty mountains is seen skirting the horizon as far as the eye can extend ; between which and the tract in question, are seen immense and apparently impenetra- ble forests. The prospect is sublime ; and will amply repay the traveller in stopping a short time to enjoy this rich and extensive scenery. Lenox, a small village, is Smiles from OneidaCastle. One mile farther the flourishing village of Canastota is seen about half a mile north of the turnpike on an extensive plain below, with the Erie canal passing through it. s 212 STAGE ROUTE — CHITTENINGO, GluALiTT Hill, a neat little village on a pleasant em-' inence, is 3 miles from Lenox ; and 5 miles farther is the village of Chitteningo, situated on a creek of that name, and from which a feeder, 3^ mile long, is constructed to the canal. The village is bounded by very lofiy hills, and cannot be considered a happy location, except for man- ufacturing purposes. Gypsum is here found in great quantities ; also num'^rous petrifactions, specimens of w^hich are in most of the mineralogical cabinets in the Union. These petrifactions are near the village at the foot of a hill, and consist of the trunk of a tree and scattered fragments, the vv'oody structure of which in most cases, is remarkably perfect, and bearing a strong resemblance to the original. Various springs of wa- ter issue from the sides of the hill, wliich exhibit nu- merous incrustations (calcareous tufa) along its slope and in the vale below. To the properties of these wa- ters may be attributed the formation of these incrusta- tions and petrifactions. At Chitteningo, the road diverges, forming two prom- inent routes to Auburn ; one passing through the vil- lages of Manlius, Onondaga Hollow, Onondaga Hill, Marcellus and Skaneateles, and the other passing through the village of Syracuse, noticed in the canal route. The first mentioned route, though over a less even country, is the one generally preferred by travellers, as affording a more rich and diversified scene- ry of highly cultivated farms and flourishing villages. Four miles from Chitteningo, on the road to Manlius, is an eminence from which a beautiful prospect is obtain- ed of a part of Oneida Lake and a wide extent of hilly STAGE ROUTE — MARCELLU3. 21 S country beyond, Onondaga Lake, and the village of Onondaga Hill, 1 5 miles distant. Four miles farther is the flourishing village of Manlius, situated on the east side of Limestone creek, containing about 150 houses, 4 churches, 2 cot- ton factories, mills, &c. There are in the vicinity two considerable falls, the principal of which is 100 feet in height. Jamesville is 6 miles from Manlius. Green Pond in this vicinity is worthy of notice. The water is 200 feet deep, and of a deep green color, emitting a strong smell of sulphur. The surface of the pond is between 100 and 200 feet below the level of its shores, which are precipitous and rocky. Four miles farther is the village of Onondaga Hollow, extending 1 mile across a deep but beautiful valley, through which the Onondaga creek passes. The village contains an academy, church, &c. ; but its business has declined since the opening of the canal, and the springing up of the village of Syracuse, which is 4 miles distant. Three miles south of Onon- daga Hollow is a considerable settlement of Onondaga Indians, where once was held the grand councils of the Six Nations. Onondaga Hill, 2 miles farther, is pleasantly situa- ted on very high ground, with a commanding view of the country to the north and east for a considerable dis- tance, embracing within the prospect the Onondaga Lake and the villages of Syracuse, Salina and Liver- pool. Marcellus, 8 miles from Onondaga Hill, is a neat village of 70 or 80 houses, situated in the valley of the 214 STAGE ROUTE — SKANEATELE9. Otisco creek. Two miles north are falls of some 60 or 70 feet affording facilities for a variety of manufactories ; near which, water lime or cement is found in inexhausti- ble quantities. There is also lying on the bank of the creek at this place a petrified tree of large dimensions, partly covered with limestone. Skaneateles, 6 miles from Marcellus, is situated at the foot of the Skaneateles Lake, and is a beautiful thriving village, containing about 2000 inhabitants, 2 churches and a flourisliing academy, a variety of man- ufactories, mills and many elegant private dwellings. It enjoys a commanding view of the lake for 6 or 8 miles above and of the surrounding country, which ri- ses in a gentle acclivity from the water 100 feet or more in the course of a mile, presenting a range of neat white farm houses on the summit, and a slope of highly cul- tivated country towards the lake on each side. The lake, which is 16 rmles long and from half a mile to two miles in width, abounds with fine trout and other fish. The water is deep and remarkably pure, with a gravelly bottom and bold shores. The prospect from the lake is highly interesting, particularly towards its head, where the country rises abruptly several hundred feet, presenting a miniature picture of mountain scene- ry. Under these bluffs on the east side and on a level with the water are found large quantities of petrifactions, the cornu ammonite, imbedded in a stratum of slat€. Three miles north of the village the Skaneateles creek falls over abed of rocks, about 70 feet in a short dis- tance ; but in low water, the whole is lost or sinks among the rocks, and only a partof it again appears at a distance of half a mile below, presenting the novel StAGE ROUTiffi — AUBtRM. S15 spectacle of a river much larger at its fountain than at its mouth. Seven miles from Skaneateles stands the flourishing village of Auburn. It is situated on the Owasco creeii, two "allies below its outlet from the lake ©f the same name, ^4 miles from Onondaga, and 170 from Albany, This village owes much of its importance to the numerous mills and manufactories for which its location is ex- tremely eligible. It contains about 600 houses and 6000 inhabitants. Among other public buildings there are six churches, an academy, museum, a court house and gaol, and a prison erected for convicts at the ex- pense of the state. There has also been established a theological seminary, which is patronized exclusively by the Presbyterian denomination, and is at present the only one of the kind in the state. Many circum- stances combine to render this place an agreeable resi" dence to the man of taste or business. The village is handsomely built, and increases annually in population and business. It is situated 7 miles from Weed's Port, on the canal, to which place stages run daily, for the accommodation of passengers wishing to take pack- et boats for the west or east — fare 50 cents. The principal public houses are the American Hotel, Western Exchange and Bank Coffee House. The State Prison, at Auburn, is considered one of the best in the Union. It was commenced in 1816, and is constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, en- closed by a wall 2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet on each side. The front of the prison, including the keep- er's dwelling, is about 300 feet, and the two wings ex- lending west, are 240 feet each. The north wing con- s2 216 STAGE ROUTE — AUBURN. tains solitary cells and a hospital, and the south wing is divided principally into cells. Between the two wings is a grass plot with gravel walks ; to the west of which is the interior yard, covered with gravel, containing reservoirs of water, and surrounded with M^orkshops. These shops, besides the paint shop, form a continued range of 900 feet ; and are well light- ed by windows in the sides and from the roof. They are built of brick, and are well secured against fire. The outer walls, against which the shops are built, are 35 feet high on the inside, and the other walls about 20. They are four feet thick, and the walls of the pris- on 3 feet. The expense of the whole, without includ- ing the labor of the convicts employed, was above $300,- 000. The prison being erected on the bank of the Owasco, water power is applied in many cases, to great advantage, in propelling machinery. The most interesting period for witnessing the pris- oners is early in the morning, from the time they are brought forth to labor till after breakfast. The spec- tator will then have an opportunity of seeing some of the prominent features of the order, regularity and system with which every thing is conducted. He will admire the precision with which the rul«s are execu- ted, without the least confusion, noise, or even com- mand. The convicts silently marching to and from their rest, meals and labor, at precise times, moving in separate corps, in single file, with a slow lock step, erect posture, keeping exact time, with their faces in- cUned towards their keepers, (that they may detect con- versation, of which none is ever permitted,) all give to the spectator somewhat similar feelings to those excited STAGE ROUTE — CAYUGA. 217 ?)y a military funeral ; and to the convicts, impressions not entirely dissimilar to those of culprits when march- ing to the gallows. The same silence, solemnity ajid order, in a good degree, pervades every business and "department. In addition to divine service in the chapel of the pris- on every Sabbath, a Sunday school has been establish- ed, superintended by the students of the theological seminary, which has been attended with very beneficial effects. So admirable has been the discipline of this prison that a large proportion of the convicts discharged have become honest, industrious men, and none are known to have become corrupted or made worse. Cayuga, 7 miles west of Auburn, is a small village ; but affords a beautiful prospect of the Cayuga Lake, and the bridge extending across, which is 1 mile and 8 rods long, and situate within 2 miles of the outlet. This lake is 38 miles in length, and is generally from 1 to 2 miles in breadth. The water is shallow, but of sufficient depth for a good sized steam-boat, which plies daily between the bridge and Ithaca, a beautiful and thriving village, at the head of the lake, 36 miles distant. Travellers designing to take an excursion on this lake to Ithaca, should pay for stage fare no farther tlian the Cayuga Bridge. From this point they can take the steam-boat at 1 o'clock P. M. which reaches Ith- aca in between 3 and 4 hours^ where the best of accom- modations will be found at one of the largest public hous- es in the state. Passing the night at Ithaca, the daily stage can be taken the next morning after breakfast for Bath, at the head of the Seneca Lake, distant about 22 218 STAGE ROUTE GEJ^EVA. miles, which reaches the latter place in time for the steam-boat which leaves at noon for Geneva, noticed in a subsequent page ; and thus the tour of both lakes be performed, and a full view of their rich and variegat- ed scenery had in the short space of thirty hours. Seneca Falls, 4 miles west of Cayuga, is a flourish- ing village, located on the banks of the Seneca river, which here falls 46 feet, affording important manufac- turing facilities. The village has attained a very rapid growth within the last 3 or 4 years, and will probably soon rank among the most important towns in the western part of the state. For, in addition to its manu- facturing privileges, a canal extends to the Erie canal at Lakeport, 20 miles distant, which, connected with the river at the village, affords an uninterrupted w^ater com- munication from Geneva to the western lakes and the ocean. Four miles father is the handsome village of Waterloo, a half shire town in Seneca county. It contains about 200 houses, a court house, jail, and 2 printing offices. The village is principally situate on the northern bank of the Seneca outlet ; which here propels several mills. The commencement of this vil- lage was in 1816 ; since which it has become a place of very considerable importance ; though it is probably destined to yield in magnitude and business to its rival village at Seneca Falls. From Waterloo to Geneva, 7 miles distant, the route is delightful, em- bracing (a part of the way) a charming ride around the north end of the Seneca Lake, which is here about 2 miles wide. The village is one of the most elegant ia STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA. 219 the state ; and, with its beautiful scenery, cannot fail of calling forth the admiration of every visitant. It is situate on the western margin of the lake, the bank of which being lofty, affords an enchanting view of one of the purest sheets of water in America. There are al- ready in this place about 600 buildings, many of which are very handsome ; and the population is rising of 3000. Among the public buildings are a college, an academy, 7 churches and a bank. The college is lo- cated on an eminence south of the village, on the margin of the lake ; and though in its infancy, is handsomely patronized. It is in the vicinity of several country seats, enjoying an unusual richness of pros- pect, with an almost constant breeze from the lake ; which is about 35 miles long, and from 3 to 4 miles wide. It abounds with salmon trout and other fish, and is never closed with ice. A steam-boat runs daily from Geneva to Jeffersonville, at the head of the lake, leaving the former place at 7 A. M., and returning at evening ; and so greatly was it patronized in 1833, that another boat is to be placed on the lake the present sea- son, (1834.)* The Genesee turnpike leads through * A passage on the lake is peculiarly delightful and interesting. Leaving Geneva with its neat stores, and elegant dwellings, its luxuriant hanging gardens, and the glittering spires of its churches and college, the eye takes in a southern water view not surpassed in any part of this world of inland seas. The first village of any note on the eastern shore is Ovid, 18 miles from Geneva. The lofty eminence on which it stands, and the rich and highly cultivated farms in its vicinity, ren- der it a most conspicuous and interesting object, Di- 220 STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA. Geneva, and the Erie canal passes about 12 miles to the north of it ; with which there is a water communi- cation, by means of the outlet of the Seneca lake and a lateral canal, noticed at p. 217. rectly opposite to Ovid is Dresden, one of the most thriving villages in Yates county. It is situated on the outlet of Crooked Lake, and extends nearly a mile back of the shore. Immediately south of Dresden, is the farm of the late celebrated Jemima Wilkinson, an en- thusiast, who pretended that she was the Saviour of mankind. Until her death, which took place somo years since, she had several follow^ers ; and this farm, which is very beautiful, has passed by will into the hands of one of them. Four miles south of Dresden is Long Point, remarkable for a tree at its extremity, vrhich, by a little aid from the imagination puts on the semblance of an Elephant. Six miles south of Long Point is Rapelyea's ferry, near which is still standing the frame which Jemima constructed to try the faith of her followers. Having approached within a few hundred yards of the lake shore, she alighted from an elegant carriage, and tiie road being strewed by her followers with white handkerchiefs, she walked to the platform, and having announced her intention of walk- ing across the lake on the water, she stepped ankle deep into the clear element, when suddenly pausing, she ad- dressed the multitude, inquiring whether or not they had faith that she could pass over, for if otherwise, she could not ; and on receiving an affirmative answer, re- turned to her carriage, declaring that as they believed in her power it was unnecessary to display it. Six miles and a half south of Rapelyea's ferry, is Starkie's Point, where the shore is so bold that the steam-boat passes within 10 feet of the extremity of the Point. Four miles further on the west shore is the Big Stream Point, at which there is a mill seat with a fall of 136 feet. The land puts on a wilder aspect as the tourist STAGE ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA, 221 Canandaigua 15 miles from Geneva, This vil- lage is situated near the outlet of the lake from which it takes its name, on a gentle ascent commanding a fine view of the lake at the distance of half a mile. The principal street extends 2 miles in length, and is handsomely decorated with trees, through which ap- pear the dehcately painted dwellings, ornamented with Venetian blinds. In an open square, in the centre of the village, is the court house and clerk's office of the county. The Episcopal church, situate on the main street, is one of the most elegantly constructed build- ings in the state. In the vicinity are a number of de- lightful villas, surrounded with smiling gardens and orchards of various kinds of fruit, which, with the view of the lake stretching far to the south, beautifully set off the scene of enchantment. In richness and variety of natural scenery, and the taste and elegance of its edifices, few villages can compare with Canandaigua. In point of trade and wealth, too, it is not exceeded by many villages in the state. A steam mill is here in op- eration, which annually furnishes a very large supply approaches the head of the lake, and the eminences are more beetling and precipitous. The eastern shore also partakes more of the mountainous character, though cultivated far up the summit lands, and is here and there marked by ravines, through one of which " Hec- tor Falls" tumble from a height of one hundred and fifty-feet, and carry several valuable mills. These falls are distant three miles from the village of Jeffersonville, at the head of the lake, which has recently sprung into existence, and which will soon become an important in- land town. 822 STAGE ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. of flour. On the lake, which is 14 miles long, and from one to two in breadth, a steam-boat performs a daily trip, which is rendered unusually interesting from the varied scenery whicli is presented. The village is situated 208 miles from Albany ; from Utica, 114 ; from Buffalo, 89 ; from Niagara Falls, 109. Principal pub- lic houses, Blossom's Hotel (one of the best in the wes- tern district) and Pitt's Eagle Tavern. Canandaigua was one of the first towns settled in what was formerly called the " Genesee covinlry." The entire tract, containing six millions of acres, was pur- chased of Massachusetts by Oliver Phelps and Nathan- iel Gorham, in 1787, for $1,000,000 ; and Phelps, then living at Gransvill, in that state, made preparations the spring following w'ith men and means to explore the country thus acquired. AVith great resolution and in- trepidity, he took leave of his family and his neighbors, together with the minister of the parish, who assem- bled on the occasion, and started on his expedition, leaving them all in tears, bidding him a final adieu, scarcely hoping for his return from a wilderness, in the Indian country, hardly yet pacified. He persevered and penetrated the forest from the German Flats to Canandaigua, a distance of 128 miles, by the present improved road — sent out runners, and collected the Sachems, Chiefs, and Warriors of the Six Nations, and in July, 1788, with the aid of the Rev. Samuel Kirtland, as State Commissioner and Indian Missionary, concluded a treaty of purchase of a tract containing 2| millions of acres. The Indians were dis- posed to confine Mr. Phelps to the Genesee river as his western boundary. He however proposed the erection STAGE ROUTE — CANAXDAHJUA. 223 of mills at the falls of the river, (now Rochester) and obtained of them in the purchase what was termed a riiill yard, embracing a tract of 12 by 24 miles, extend- ing J 2 miles v/est of Rochester, and north to Lake On- tario. The kindness of Mr. Phelps, and the good faith always observed by him towards the Indians, induc- ed them to adopt him and his son as honorary mem- bers of their national councils. The leading chiefs coiicerned in these negotiations were Fannefs Broth- er and Red Jacket, the latter of whom died near Buf- falo in 1829. In 17S9, the lands thus purchased having been divi- ded into ranges, Phelps opened a land ofiice at Canan- daip-ua, the first established in America, where he continued to make sales until the year following, ^^•hen the balance of the tract to which the Indian title had been extinguished, being 1,264,000 acres, was sold to Robert Monis, for eight pence lawful money per acre, who sold the same to Sir William Pultney, of Engl?..nd. Gorhani and Phelps not being able to pay the whole purchase money, compromised and surrendered to Mas- sachusetts that part of the land to which the Indian title remained unextinguished, being about .two thirds of the western part of it ; and in 1786, Morris purchased of Massachusetts the tract thus surrendered, extinguish- ed the Indian title, sold out several tracts to different persons, and mortgaged the residue to William Wil- link and others, of Amsterdam, called the Holland Company — under the foreclosure of which mortgages the company acquired the full title to their large tract, T 224 BURNING SPRINGS. surveyed it into ranges and townships, after the man- ner of Ohver Phelps, and in ISOl opened a land office at Batavia, under the agency of Joseph ElUcot, for the sale thereof. Oliver Phelps, Esq. grandson of the original propri- etor, is the owner and resides on the premises of his ancestor in Canandaigua. Burning Springs. From 8 to 10 miles, in a south- westerly direction from Canandaigua, are found several springs, chargfed with inflamable ga^. The following description of them is taken from a Canandaigua jour- nal : " These springs are found in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua. Tlie former are situated in a ravine on the west side of Bristol Hollow, about half a mile from the North Presbyterian meeting house. The ravine is formed in clay slate, and a small brook runs through it. The gas rises through fissures of the slate, from both the margin and the bed of the brook. Where it rises through the water, it is formed into bubbles, and flashes only when the flame is applied ; but where it rises directly from the rock, it burns with a steady and beautiful flame, which continues until extinguished by storms, or by design. The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to two miles south-westerly from the village of Bushville, along a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at the bot- tom of the valley called Federal Hollow, and partly at an elevation of 40 or 50 feet on the south side of it. The latter have been discovered within a few years, in a field which had been long cleared, and are very nu- BURNING SPRINGS. 225 merous. Their places are known by little hillocks of a few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of dark bituminous mould, which seems principally to have been deposited by the gas, and through which it finds its way to the surface, in one or more currents. These currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn with a steady flame. In winter they form openings through the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the nov- el and interesting phenomenon of a steady and lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold weather, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the wa- ter contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height of two or thi-ee feet, the gas issuing from their tops ; the whole when lighted in a still evening presenting an appearance even more beautiful than the former. Experiments made with the gas seem to prove, that it consists principally ofa mixture of the light and heavy carburetted hydrogen gases, the former having greatly the preponderance ; and that it contains a small pro- portion of carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a little oily or bituminous matter in solution. It burns with a lambent, yellowish flame, scarcely inclining to red, with small scintillations of a bright red at its base. It has the odour of pit coal. It produces no smoke bat deposits, while burning, a small quantity of bitu- minous lampblack. It is remarkable that the hillocks, through which the gas rises, are totally destitute of vegetation. Whether the gas is directly deleterious to vegetable life, or indirectly, by interrupting the contact of the air of the atmosphere, it is certain that no plant can sustain life within the circle of its influence. 226 STAGS ROUTE — EAST AVOX. It is well known that this gas is found abundantly in coal mines ; and being accidentally set on fire, (mixed as it is in those mines with the air of the atmosphere,) has many times caused terrible and destructive explo- sions. The writer cannot learn that it has ever been known to be generated in the earth, except in the pres- ence of coal ; and hence the inference is strong that it proceeds from coal." From Canandaigua stages may be taken for Roches- ter, (see " Canal Route,") distant 27 miles in a north- westerly direction, and the route continued from thence to the Falls by stage or canal ; l-at if a visit to Montre- al, by the way of Lake Ontario, is not contemplated, it is generally deemed a better course to proceed directly to Buffalo and the Falls, and return by the way of Ro- chester. In pursuing the usual route from Canandai- gua to Buffalo, East Bloom field is reached in traveUing 9 miles, and West Bloomfield in going 5 miles farther. They are considered among the richest agricultural town- ships in the state ; presenting a succession of beautiful and highly cultivated farms. The fruit raised on these lands, particularly apples and peaches, is not excelled in any section of the country. Lima is 4 miles from West Bloomfield, and is a con- tinuation of the same rich and fertile soil, divided into highly improved and productive farms. East Avon is 5, and Avon Post Office 7 miles from Lima. The Genesee river passes through the town of Avon, and is navigable for boats to the Erie canal at R,ochcster, 20 miles distant, with which it is STAGE ROUTE — CALEDONIA, 227 connected by a feeder. The alluvial flats are very ex- tensive and fertile ; and the uplands are well watered by small streams and springs. A remarkable bulbous root grows on the Genesee flats in this town. It is from 3 to 4 feet in length, from 6 to 8 inches in diame- ter, and assumes the external appearance of a log in the earth. A small creeping vine, like that of the straw- berry, proceeds from the root ; and its natural vegeta- ble productions are almost infinitely various. The Avon Spring is becoming a place of considera- ble resort for invaUds, Its waters, which are strongly impregnated with sulphur and alum, are found benefi- cial in various diseases. The tourist will generally find himself amply compensated by spending a day at this place. Caledonia, 8 miles from Avon Post Office, is more particularly celebrated as the location of a large Springy than for any thing else. The stage usually stops at the village long enough to enable passengers to visit this natural curiosity, which is situate a few rods north of the principal street. Within a small area, sufficient water rises to propel a mill, (of which there are several on the stream below,) at all seasons of the year. The water is pure and appears to rise from a rocky bottom. A stage runs daily from this place to Rochester, which is 20 miles distant. A part of the route lies on the bank of the Genesee river, and, most of the way, through an uncultivated country. Settlements and improvements, however, are rapidly increasing ; and the wilderness will ere long give place to the arts of husbandry. t2 §28 STAGE ROUTE — BATAVIA. Pursuing the direct route from Caledonia to Buffalo, the next place of importance is the pleasant and thri ving village of Lerot, which is 6 miles west of Caledonia, and 17 miles south of the Erie Canal. Allen's Creek, which passes through the village, affords important mill privi- leges, and contributes much to the value and business of the place. The number of buildings already erect- ed is between 3 and 400, principally located on one street ; among which are several very handsome pri- vate dwellings. Numerous petrifactions have been found in the bed of the creek, about 200 yards north of the village bridge ; among which are petrified turtles, w^eighinsc from 10 to 300 pounds. They are compos- ed principally of dark coloured bituminous limestone, which is easily split, and often discovers crystaline veins, together with yellow clay or ochre. The mine- ralogist Mall find much here to gratify liis taste and re- ward his researches. The delightful appearance of the village, also, with i<^3 charming location on an emi- nence, will often induce the traveller to make it a tem- porary resting place from the fatigues of a journey. Batavia is 10 miles from Le Roy. It is the capital of Genesee county ; and assumes more the appearance of one of the early settled villages in New-England, than the more flourishing villages of the west. It is situated on the north side of the Tonewanta creek, on an extensive plain, and has several handsome and even elegant private mansions. Besides the court house and jail, it contains a bank, the Holland company land office, and a few other public buildings. StA&E ROUTE — BATAVIA. 229 This village has become somewhat celebrated as the theatre of events connected with the masonic fraterni- ty. It was the residence of the noted William Morgan, previous to his abduction ; and from one of its printing offices was first issued what has been denominated the secrets of masonry. The excitem.ent produced for a time in the village, and in other sections of the coun- try, was of a nature the most rancorous and intolerant, and unworthy ths character of an enliglitened people. Illiberal feelings, however, have in a measure given place to reason ; and there is a prevailing disposition to establish peace and good order. After leaving Batavia for Buffalo, the country soon assumes a less populous appearance ; a. id the travel- ling is rendered unpleasant from the extensive cause- ways which intervene consisting of logs placed trans- versely, in the road. This has been done to avoid the deep mud on the low grounds, which are subject to fre- quent inundations in the spring and fall. The state of these roads has induced many to prefer the ridge road or alluvial way from Rochester to Lewiston, (which is noticed in a subsequent part of this volume.) But, in visiting Buffalo, as well as the Falls, the latter route is more circuitous, and can be taken with great conven- ience in returnino-. The intervening places between Batavia and Buffalo are Pembroke, 14 miles— Clarence, 8 — Williamsville, 8 — from v/hich to Buffalo is 10 miles. [For a descrip- ?.ion of the latter place, see '* Canal Route."] §30 tCRlE CAKAt. ERIE CANAL. This magnificent structure was commenced under the patronage of the state, on the 4th of July, 1817, and was completed in 1825, uniting the waters of the Erie and Hudson, at an expense of less than seven mil- lions of dollars — a sum trivial in comparison with the immense advantage derived to the state from such com- munication. The canal, beginning at Albany on tho Hudson, passes up the west bank of that river nearly to the mouth of the Mohawk ; thence along the bank of the Mohawk, to Schenectady, crossing the river twice by 2 aqueducts. From Schenectady it follows the south bank of the Mohawk until it reaches Rome, In some places it encroaches so near as to require em- bankments made up from the river to support it. An embankment of this description, at Amsterdam village, is 5 or 6 miles in extent. What is called the long level, being a distance of 69 1-2 miles without an intervening lock, commences in the town of Frankfort, about 8 miles east of Utica, and terminates 3-4 of a mile east from Syracuse ; from thence the route proceeds 3ii miles to Lake Port, situated on the east border of the Cayuga marshes, 3 miles in extent, over which to the great embankment, 72 feet in height and near 2 miles in length, is a distance of 52 miles ; thence 8 1-2 miles to the commencement of the Genesee level, extending westward to Lockport, nearly parallel with the ridge road, 65 miles. Seven miles from thence to Pendleton village the canal enters Tonncwanta creek, which it follows 12 miles, and thence following the east side of the x\iao"ara liver, communicates with Lake Erie at EPaE CAHAL. 231 Buffalo, The whole line of the canal from Albany to Buffalo is 363 miles in length. It is 40 feet wide at the top and 28 feet wide at the bottom. The water flows at the depth of 4 feet in a moderate descent of half an inch in a mile. The tow path is elevated about 4 feet from the surface of the water, and is 10 feet wide. The whole length of the canal includes 83 locks and 18 aqueducts of various extent. The locks are construct- ed in the most durable manner of stone laid in water lime, and are 90 feet in length and 1 5 feet in width. The whole rise and fall of lockage is 688 feet, and the height of Lake Erie above the Hudson 568 feet. The principal aqueducts are, one crossing the Genesee river at Rochester, 804 feet in length ; one crossing the Mo- hawk at Little Falls, supported by 3 arches, the centre of 70 feet, and those on each side of 50 feet chord ; and two crossing the Mohawk river near Alexander's bridge, one of which is 748 feet and the other 1188 feet in length. The whole workmanship evinces a degree of beauty and proportion consistent with the greatest strength. In many places the sides of the canal are either paved wdth small stones or covered wath thick grass, designed to prevent the crumbling of the soil by the motion of the water. To the main canal are a number of side cuts or lateral canals : one opposite Troy, connecting with the Hudson ; one at Syracuse, a mile and a half in lenghth, to Salina ; one from Syra- cuse to Oswego, 38 miles in length ; one at Orville ; one at Chitteningo : one at Lake Port, extending to the Cayuga lake, 5 miles, and from thence to the Sen- eca lake at Geneva, a distance of 15 miles ; and one at Eoehester of two miles in length, which serves the 232 ERIE CANAt. double purpose of a navigable feeder, and a mean of communication for boats between the canal and the Genesee river. The Chemung canal, extending from the head waters of the Seneca lake to the Chemung riv- er, 18 miles distant, with a navigable feeder of 13 miles, from Painted Post on the Chemung river to the sum- mit level of the canal is nearly completed. The Crook- ed lake canal, 7 miles in length, extending from the out- let of the Seneca lake to the Crooked lake, near Pen Van, is also in progress. The debt contracted for the Champlain and Erie canals, amounted, on the first of January, 1823, to , . o >■> , a ■ w ^" Cu s ZJ o c ■>ij o o >> c rt •^ X ci o '/J o 5 o o a- < CO L-; O} Pm tf J ALBANY Troy. Junction Schenectady .... Amsterdam Schoharie Creek. Caughriawaga.. . Sprakei^s Basin . . Canajoharie; .... Bowman's Creek Little Falls Herkimer German Flats. . . Frankfort Utica Whitesboro' Oriskany Rome New-London. . . . Loomis Oneida Creek . . . Lenox Basin .... Canastota New Boston Chittcningo Kirkville Manlius OrviUc Syracuse Geddes Nme Mile Creek, .| Camillas 30 1101171, 7 7 23 103 164 2 9 21 10l']62| 21 30 80 1411 16 46 16 64il25| 7 53 23 57 118 4 57 27 53 114 9 66 36 44 105 3 69 39 41 102 3 72 42 38 99 16 88 58 22 83 7 95 65 15 76 2 97 67 13 74 3 100 70 10 71 10 110 80 61 3 114 84 4 57 4 117 87 7 54 8125 95 15 46 7 132 102 39 6:138 lOS 28 33 3'141 111 31 30 3 141 114 34 27 2 146 115 36 25 4 150 120 40 21 4 154 124 44 17 4 158 128 48 13 4 162 132 52 9 3 165 135 55 6 6 171 141 61 2 173 143 63 2 6 179 149 69 8 1 ISO 150 70 9 200i270[333|363 326 356 3211354 3031333 287317 2801310 276 306 193 191 170 154 147 143 203 261 240 224 217 213 1341204 131^201 128'l98 112(182 105 103 100 90 86 83 75 68 62 59 56 267 264 261 245 175 173 170 160 156 153 145 1.38 132 129 126 297 294 291 275 238 268 236j266 2331263 2231253 54 124 50 120 46ill6 42 38 35 29 27 21 20 112 108; i05j 99! 97 91 90 219 216 208 201 195 192 189 187 183 179 175 171 168 162 160 154 153 249 246 238 231 225 222 219 217 213 209 205 201 198 192 190 184 183 CANAL ROUTE. 235 Distance from a> . CJ >-> ^ d TS c ^ o >-, 5 m o c3 o •i-5 l-H O o >^ O o o n- < CO U) m CU ci J Canton Jordan Weed's Port.. Centre Port. . Port Byron . . . Lakeport .... Clyde Lyons Lockville Newark Port Gibson. . Palmyra Fair Port FuUom's Basin . . . Pittsford Rochester Spencer's Basin , Og^den Adams' Basin.. . Brockport HoUey Murray Albion Portville Oak Orchard . . . Medina Middleport Lockport Pendleton Tonawanda .... Black Rock .... BUFFALO.... 5 185 155 75 14 15 85 148 6 191 161 81 20 9 79 142 6 197 167 87 26 3 73 136 1 198 168 88 27 2 72 135 2 200 170 90 29 70 133 6 206 176 96 35 6 64 127 11 217 187 107 46 17 53 116 9 226 196 116 55 26 44 107 6 232 202 122 61 32 06 101 1 233 203 123 62 33 37 100 3 236 206 126 65 36 34 97 5 241 211 131 70 41 29 92 11 252 222 142 81 52 18 81 2 254 224 144 83 54 16 79 6 260 230 150 89 60 10 73 10 270 240 160 99 70 63 10 280 250 170 109 80 10 53 2 282 252 172 111 82 12 51 3 285 255 175 114 85 15 48 5 290 260 180 119 90 20 43 5 295 265 185 124 95 25 38 2 297 267 187 126 97 27 36 8 305 275 195 134 105 35 28 4 309 279 199 138 109 39 24 5 314 284 204 143 114 44 19 1 315 285 205 144 115 45 18 6 321 291 211 150 121 51 12 12 333 303 225 162 133 63 7 340 310 230 169 140 70 7 12 352 322 262 181 152 82 19 8,360 330, 250 189 160 90 27 3 363 333I 253 192 163 93 30 178 172 166 165 163 157 146 137 131 130 127 122 111 109 103 93 83 81 78 73 68 66 58 54 49 48 42 30 23 11 3 236 CANAL ROUTE — MOHAWK CASTLE. For a description of Albant, Trot, The Junctiom, Schenectady, and Amsterdam, see pages 135, 141, 144, 153, 195. Schoharie Creek is 7 miles from Amsterdam. The ruins of Fort Hunter, at the mouth of this creek, are still visible. It was an important post during the early wars of this country. A chapel, built by Clueen Anne for the Indians, is also to be seen near this place, call- ed (lueen Anne's Chapel. The canal crosses the creek, by means of a dam and guard lock. Caughnawaga, 4 miles. The village is on the op- posite side of the river, and is noticed at p. 195. Anthony's Nose, 8 miles from Caughnawaga. This is a very abrupt and prominent hill on the south side of the canal, having on its top a cavern, which extends to a great depth. Spraker's Basin, 1 mile farther, is a small village which has recently sprung up on the bank of the canal. Canajoharie, 3 miles. (Seep. 196.) Bowman's Creek, 1 mile. Fort Plain, 3 miles. (Seep. 196.) East Canada Creek, 4 miles. This creek enters the Mohawk on the north side ; near which Capt. But- ler was killed by the Indians soon after his wanton de- Btruction of the village of Cherry Valley. Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. The ruins of an old chapel erected for the use of the Mohawk Indians are still visible at this place, and also some slight remains of their once formidable fortifications. CANAL ROUTK -vVUITESBOROUGH. 237 Three miles farther,* as the boat approaches Little Falls, the scenery becomes highly picturesque and sub- lime. On either side are lofty and apparently inacces- sible mountains, affording a narrow pass for the road, river and canal. Indeed, the latter, for a considerable distance, is formed by an excavation in the side of the mountain, having a wall of 20 or 30 feet to support its northern embankment. The river here, for two or three miles in extent, descends with much rapidity over a rocky and uneven bottom, and exhibits, in some in- stances, an appearance not unlike the rapids above the falls of the Niagara. Little Fai^ls, 5 miles from Mohawk Castle. {See p. 197.) After leaving Little Falls, the canal enters a smooth and delightful level, including what are called the Ger- man Flats, passing near the village of Herkimer, 7 miles from the Falls, {see p. 201 ;) from thence to Frankfort, 5 miles ; and from thence to Utica, 10 miles. For a description of Utica and Trenton Falls, see pages 201 to 210.) Whitesborough, 4 miles north-west of Utica, is a beautiful aud wealthy village, located on a rich and fer- tile plain. The principal and most elegant street is a * A brick house near this point, standing on elevated ground south of the canal, was the former residence of Gen. Herkimer. He received a wound in a skirmish during the revolution, (noticed at p. 239,) of which he died at his residence. His remains repose in an adjoin* mg field 238 CANA ROUTE — ROME. short distance from, and runs parallel with the canal ; from which, through branches of trees half enshroud- ing the village, may be seen several elegant country seats. It may be considered, indeed, as better adapted for a country residence than a place of business. At the eastefn extremity of the village is shown the first framed house erected in the county of Oneida ; half a mile from which, the canal passes over the Sauquait creek. Within 11 miles of the canal, on this creek, there are 84 mills of various descriptions, including sev- eral factories, some of which cost rising of $120,000. The York mills, or cotton factories, half a mile south of the canal, are considered among the best in the state, and constitute of themselves, with the houses for labor- ers, a compact village. Oriskant, 3 miles from Witesborough, is a flourish- ing village of about 100 houses. It is situated on the Oriskany creek, which here enters the canal as a feed- er. The Oriskany Manufacturing Company have a woollen factory here, which is the most extensive of the kind of any in the state. The capital of the company is $200,000, one half of which has been paid in ; and the amount of wool annually consumed is 160,000 pounds. Rome, 8 miles. This is a half shire town of the county of Oneida, contains a court house, jail and bank, and is pleasantly situated on the north side of the old canarconnecting Wood creek with the Mohawk, and about half a mile north of the Erie canal. It contains between 150 and 200 houses, principally located on one street, running east and west. The ruins of Fort Stanwix, near the village between Wood creek and the CAnAI. ROtJlE — H£W LONDON. ^39 l^iohawk, are still visible. This fort was erected in 1758 by the British, was suffered to decay, and was af- terwards rebuilt by the Americans during the revolu- tion. 15 or 1800 men, including Indians, were sent from Montreal by Burgoyne, in 1777, to besiege the Fort. They were commanded by the Baron St. Leger. Gen. Herkimer, commandant of the militia of Tryon county, (embracing the present counties of Montgom- ery and Herkimer,) was sent against them with about 800 men. On meeting a detachment of Leger's forces, the militia mostly fled on the first fire. A few, howev- er, remained and fought by the side of Gen. H. who was mortally wounded in the road between Whites- town and Rome. The Americans lost 160 killed and 240 wounded. The fort, which was commanded by Col. Gansevoort, was afterwards assaulted by Leger's army ; but they were driven off by a sortie, directed by Col. Willet, and their camp plundered. Subsequently the fort was summoned to surrender ; but through a stratagem of Gen. Arnold, who sent two eniissaries from the camp at Stillwater, an Indian and a white man, to inform Leger of the approach of a powerful Amencan army for the relief of the besieged, he order- ed a precipitate retreat to the Oneida lake, leaving all his baggage behind. An arsenal belonging to the U. S. is situate about half a mile west of the village and 300 yards north of the canal. New-London, a small village, is passed, 7 miles from Rome ; and the village of Loomis, 6 miles farther ; 3 miles from which, the canal crosses the Oneida Creek. From thence to Lenox Basin, is 3 miles ; to t2 240 CANAL ROUTE — SYRACUSE. Canastota, a new and flourishing village, 2 miles ; and to New Boston, 4 miles. Chitteningo is 4 miles farther. A navigable feeder enters the canal at this place. It is taken from the Chitteningo creek at the village of that name, a mile and a half distant. (See p. 212.) From Chitteningo to Manlius {see p. 212) is 8 miles ; from thence to Or- ville 3 ;* and from thence 6 miles to Syracuse. The appearance of this village as you approach it, is handsome. It is bnilt on both sides of the canal, and the stores and warehouses are sub- stantial and lofty. On the left as you come up the ca- nal, is one of the most splendid Hotels in the state. It is of brick, four stories high, and surrounded with piazzas. There are also nearly 500 dwellings and stores, several handsome churches, a bank, court house and jail, and every thing has the appearance of a commercial bustling town. This thriving vil- lage owes its importance principally to the salt pro- duced in its neighborhood, the whole adjacent coun- try being impregnated with it, and springs from which immense quantities are manufactured rising in various directions. A little west of Syracuse, a plain of 300 acres is nearly covered vdth vats for the manufacture of salt by solar evaporation. The water is brought in logs from the great spring at Salina, one mile distant, which supplies with very little attention, the various * At this place are inexhaustible beds of v^'ater lime, used for hydraulic cement ; large quantities of v/hich are annually exported. CANAL route:— SAUNA. Mi ranges of vats. A light roof is constructed to each vat, which can be shoved off or on at pleasure, to permit the rays of the sun to act upon the water, or to prevent thd dampness of the atmosphere from commingling there- with. The salt is taken out of these vats twice or three times during the warm season, and removed to store houses ; from whence it is conveyed in barrels to the canal for transportation. Salina is one and a half miles north of Syracuse, and though not on the usually travelled route to the west, should be visited for the purpose of examining the prin- cipal spring, and the various salt establishments con- nected therewith. A packet constantly plies between the villages on a lateral canal, aflbrding an easy and pleasant mode of conveyance. The spring at Sahna was first discovered by the In- dians many years since, by being the resort of deer and other animals. The first white settlers were in the habit of boiling the water in small vessels for domestic purposes. Since then, the spring has been excavated to a very considerable depth, and affords the strongest saline water yet discovered in the world, 40 gallons yielding about a bushel of pure salt. The v/ater is for- ced up to the top of an adjoining hill by a powerful hy- draulian driven by the surplus waters from the Oswego canal, which commences at this place. The salt wa- ter is in this way conveyed 85 feet above the canal to a large reservoir, into wbir.h it is discharged at the rate of 300 gallons per minute. It is hence carried to the difierent factories in Salina and Syracuse. Of these there acre about 100 at Salina and 30 at Syracuse ; there are also 26 at Liverpool, about 6 miles north-west S4'2 CANAL ROUTE — SALiHA. of Saiina, and about 30 at Geddes, 2 miles west of Syracuse. The works and springs all belong to the state, to which imposts are payable to the amount of 31 cents per barrel of 5 bushels,* and every manufacturer pays two cents per bushel for the use of the water. The water is conveyed from the reservoir to the different manufactories and evaporating fields, by means of '(Wooden pipes. The salt is manufactured generally by boiling and evaporation. There are, however, two es- tabhshments in Vv'hich it is made in large wooden vats by means of hot air passing through them in large me- talic pipes. The manufactories contain from 15 to 40 potash kettles, under each of wliich a constant fire is kept up, so that the water m_ay not cease to boil. The first deposit of the water is thrown away. The pure salt soon after makes its appearance, and is refined for the table by means of blood, milk, rosin, &c. The springs are considered as inexhaustible ; and the a- mount of salt manufactured at Saiina, Liverpool, Syra- cuse and Geddes in 1833 was 1,838,646 bushels. Saiina is a flourishing village, but of less magni- tude than Syracuse ; though from the rapidly increas- ing growth of both, it is not improbable that they will ere long become a continuous town. A fine view of the Onondaga Lake, about a mile distant, is had from the place. It is six miles long and two broad. At its north-western extremity is seen the pleasant village of Liverpool, of more recent origin, but promising to be- * These duties are applied by the constitution of the state towards the extinguishment of the canal debt. CANAL ROUTE — PORT BYRON, 24?» come a place of some importance. Gypsum and petri- factions are found in great quantities in the vicinity of the lake. The Oswego Canal, from the Onondaga lake to Lake Ontario at Oswego, is 3S miles long, including 20 miles of the Oswego river, on which are several locks and darns. The whole lockage of the canal and river is 123 feet. Geddes, 2 miles by canal from Syracuse, is becom- ing a place of some importance, in consequence of the recent discovery of several valuable salt springs. They are mostly within a few rods of the canal, as well as numerous establishments for the manufacture of salt. A short distance west of the village, a fine prospect is had of the Onondaga lake and the villages of Liverpool and Salina, on its northern and eastern shores. Nine Mile Creek, 6 miles from Geddes. It is a stream of some nagnitude, and is crossed by the canal, over two arches. Camjllus, 1 mile. Canton, a small village, 5 miles. Jordan, 6 miles. A short distance east of the vil- lage, the canal crosses the Jordan creek. Weed's Port, 6 miles. A thriving village of about ] 50 houses. A stage can be taken here daily for Au- burn, 7 miles south. (See p. 215.) Centre Port, 1 mile. Port Byron, 2 miles. The canal here crosses the Owasco creek, a stream issuing from a lake of that name 2 miles soutli of Auburn. The state prison is 244 CANAL ROUTE — CLYDE. erected on the bank of this creek, the waters of which are used for propelhng the machinery. Five miles farther are the Montezuma salt works, about ^ of a mile north of the canal, with a lateral cut leading thereto ; one mile from which is the small vil- lage of Lake Port. The western section of the canal (con- tradistinguished from the middle and eastern sections) commences at this place. From Utica to Lake Port, the mean descent of the canal is 45 feet ; and there are 9 locks, ascending and descending. From Lake Port to Lockport the ascent is 185 feet, and the number of intervening locl^^L The waters of the canal at the former placs^ are remarkably pure and chrystaline in their appearance, not unfrequenlly exhibiting large quantities offish at their bottom. One mile from Lake Port, the canal enters the Mon- tezuma marshes, 3 miles in extent. These marshes are formed by the outlets of the Cayuga and Seneca lakes, and exhibit a most dreary, desolate and stagnant appearance. The water is generally from 4 to 8 feet deep, and the bottom covered with long grass, the usu- al growth of swamps, extending frequently to the sur- face. A long bridge is used for a tow path over a part of these marshes. Shortly after leaving them, the ca- nal crosses and unites with the outlet oithe Canandai- gua lake, a sluggish stream, which, with the outlets of Cayuga and Seneca, soon form the Seneca river, which enters and constitutes a considerable part of the Oswe- go river. Clyde, 1 1 miles from Lake Port, is a flourishing vil- lage, containing glass works. From thence to Lyons, CANAL ROUTE — PITTSFORD. 245 a handsome village, is 9 miles ; and from thence to LocKViLLE 6 miles, to Newark 1 mile, and to Port Gibson 3 miles. Palmyra, 8 miles farther, is a thriving village in Wayne county. It is built chiefly on a vi'ide street along the south bank of the canal, and is a place of considerable trade. Mud creek runs eastward, about 40 rods north of the main street, and the canal passes between the creek and the street. There are several factories and mills on this creek. Palmyra and Port Gibson are landing places for goods designed for Can- andaigua. Fair Port, 11 miles. Fullom's Basin, 12 miles. From this place to Roch- ester, by canal, is 16 miles ; while the distance by land is but 7^. Travellers, accordingly, who have seen the Great Embankment over the Irondequoit creek, fre- quently take a stage, to shorten the excursion ; but those who have never passed over this artificial work, should continue on the canal route. The embankment is reached in about 4 miles from Fullom's Basin, and is continued for nearly two miles at an average height of about 70 feet. The novelty of a passage at so great an elevation, is much increased in the fine prospect af- forded of the surrounding country. Two miles from the embankment is the handsome village of PiTTSFORD, containing about 100 bouses and several stores ; and 10 miles farther is the flourishing and im- portant city of 246 CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. ROCHESTER.* It is situated on the east and west side of the Gene- see river, which, at this place, is 50 yards wide, and is crossed by 2 substantial bridges within the limits of the village. On the north side of the lower bridge, the lo- cal distinctions of East and West Rochester have been in a measure annihilated, by the erection of the Mar- ket and Exchange buildings over the Genesee, making the twain a continued village. Witlain its limits are two of the six falls on the river ; the upper a small fall of 12 feet at the foot of the rapids, and immediately above the canal aqueduct ; and the other the great fall of 97 feet, about 80 rods below. From a point of rock about the centre of these falls, at the foot of a small isl- and, the celebrated Sam Patch made his last and fatal jump, in the autumn of 1829. From a scaffold elevated 25 feet above the table rock, making the entire height 125 feet, he fearlessly and carelessly precipitated him- self into the abyss beneath. He did not rise at that time to the surface ; nor was his body found until the following spring, when it was discovered at the mouth of the Genesee river, 6 miles below. From a complete wilderness, Rochester has been re- deemed in the comparatively short period of about 22 years, the first settlement having been made in 1812. Its situation in the immediate vicinity of the canal, and only 7 miles from Lake Ontario, with a ship navigation * For a description of Rochester and the surround- ing country, the editor is principally indebted to Lyman B. Langwortht, Esq. of that place. CANaL KOUTE — ROCHESTER. 24T wilhin two miles of the town, and a rail road connected ed with the Erie canal at the east end of the aqueduct, enables its inhabitants to select a market either at New- York, Cluebec, or on the borders of the great western lakes ; and the many other natural advantages which it enjoys for trade and manufactures, destines it to be- come one of the most important places in the interior of the state. The population of R.ochester at the cen- sus taken in the fall of 1827, was 10,818, making an increase of more than 3,000 within the preceding year ; and the number of buildings was 1474, ^52 of which had been built the season previous. Its population in 1829 was estimated at 13,000, and its number of build- ings at near 2000, The Erie canal strikes the river in the south part of the village, and after following the eastern bank for half a mile, crosses the river in the cen- tre of the village, in a splendid aqueduct, which cost rising of $80,000. This aqueduct is constructed of red free ^toiie, and from the eastern extremity of its parapet walls to the western termination, is 804 feet long. It is built on eleven arches, one of 26, one of 30, and nine of 50 feet chord, under which water passes for flouring mills and other hydraulic establishments. The piers, which are placed on sohd rock, in the bed of the river are 4|, and the arches resting thereon 11 feet hio-h. On the north wall, which is of sufficient thick- ness for the towing path, is an iron raihng ; and at the vy-est end, the whole is terminated by a highway and tov/ing path bridge, of the most solid and elegant work- manship. The canal is suppUed by a navigable feeder from the Genesee, which enters it within the limits of the village, and through which boats may enter and as- 548 CAXAL ROUTF ROCHESTER. cend the river from 70 to 90 miles. It has, indeed, been recently ascertained that the river is navigable for steam- boats of light burthen ; and a boat is now building by a company for that purpose. The height of the canal at Rochester above the tide waters of the Hudson is 501 feet; above Lake Ontcrio, 270 feet; and below Lake Erie, 64 feet. Among the public building in the village, are a court house, jail, 11 churches, 2 markets, 2 banks, and a museum, together with two valuable institutions, the Franklin In#itute and Atheneum. There are also several extensive cotton and woollen manufactories, to- crether with various operations in iron and wood, suited to the wants of a great and growing country. The Globe buildings, a majestic pile, rising from the water's edge, 5 stories, exclusive of attics, with between 130 and 140 apartments suitable for workshops and several stores, and which were a great ornament to the place, were destroyed by fire in the winter of 1834. The principal public houses are the R,ochester House, ClintonHouse, Eagle Tavern, Mansion House, Arcade House, and Monroe House. There are also two daily and several weekly newspapers. Within the limits of the village are 15 flouring mills, containing 63 run of stones, capable of manufacturing more than 3000 barrels of flour and consuming more than 15,000 bushels of w'heat every 24 hours. Some of the mills are on a scale of magnitude perhaps not equal- led in the world. One of them contains more than four acres of flooring, and all are considered unrivalled in the perfection of their macliinery. Indeed, so power- ful and complete is the whole flouring apparatus, that CAXAL ROUTE — HOCIIKSTER. 249 there are several single runs of stones which grind, and the machinery connected therewith, bolt and pack 100 barrels of flour per day. Charters arc granted for two important rail roads ; one to Batavia on the west, and the other to Dansville on the east side of the river. The stocks of both have been taken up, and the works will probably be com- menced the present season (1834.) The Arcade, erected in 1829, is 100 feet in front, 135 feet in depth, and four stories high, exclusive of the attic and basement. It has 6 stories in front, with a large opening for a passage to the Arcade, where the post office, atheneum, arcade house, and a variety of offices are located. From the centre arises an observa- tory in the form of a Chinese Pagoda, which overlooks the surrounding country ; and in clear weather the lake can be seen like a strip of blue cloud in the hori- zon. The front of this edifice is stuccoed, in imitation of marble, except the first story, which is of the Oswe- go red free stone. Rochester has, during the present year (1834,) be- come an incorporated city. In population, it has gain- ed but little within the last three years ; but in busi- ness, stability, wealth and responsibility, it has experi- enced a most important and beneficial improvement. After a reverse of no inconsiderable magnitude, conse- quent upon a too rapid groioth for the interior, the Phoe- nix is now rising from its ashes ; the improvements in building, though less rapid than formerly, are neverthe. less in steady progress, and of a much more permanent character, and the city bids fair ultimately to reaclj 250 CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. the goal to which it seems entitled by its great natural advantages. The geological structure of this region can be easily traced, and is beautifully illustrated in the banks of the river, which are from J 00 to 200 feet in height, with a descent of 270 feet to the lake. At Carthage, two miles below, are a great variety of petrefactions, which have been blasted from the rocks in forming a canal for mill privileges. Seven miles from Rochester, a part of the way on the ridge road, on the east side of the river, is Irondequoit bay, with a high sand ridge running across it, except about two rods, where there is a chan- nel ; the shore is fine and sandy, and equals any in America for bathing. The bay is also celebrated for fishing and fowling. Stages leave Rochester daily, by way of Palmyra, Weed's Basin, Syracuse, Cherry Valley and Schoharie for Albany, 217 miles; and by way of Canandaigua, Geneva, Auburn, Skaneateles, Onondaga, Utica, Lit- tle Falls and Schenectady, for Albany, 237 miles. They also leave daily, by way of Lewiston (passing over the ridge road) and Niagara Falls, for Bvffalo, 104 miles;* and by way of Caledonia, Le Roy and Batavia, for Buf- fcdo, 77 miles. Packet Boats, also, leave Rochester every morning for Buffalo and for Albany. * The ridge road commences 2^ miles from Roches- ter, over which the foUovv'ing are the intervening dis- tances between that place and Buffalo: Carthage Falls 2 miles, Parma 9, Clarkson 7, Murray 7, RidgcM'ay 15, Hartland 10, Cambria 12, Lewiston 12, Psiagara Falls 7, Buffalo 22, CANAL HOCTi; — CARTHAGE. ^51 The new and splendid steam boat, the United States, constantly plies during the summer season between Lewiston on the Niagara, and Ogdensburgh on the St. Lawrence river, touching at Carthage Landing, two rniles from Rochester, at the junction of the rail road, by which passages may be had to the Falls or Montre- al once a w*eek. Two other new boats are now build- ing, to ply on this and other routes, so as to make a daily line, touching at every port on the Lake. [This route is more fully noticed under the head of Lake Ontario.] Before leaving Rochester, (unless the ridge road or steam boat route should be taken,) the traveller will fmd it an object of interest to visit Carthage, 2 miles down the Genesee river. This village derived its consequence from an elegant bridge, which, during its existence, formed the most eligible route to the western part of the state. The bridge was erected across the river just below the basin of the falls, which are 70 feet. It consisted of a single arch, whose chord measured 300 feet. The distance from the centre to the river was 250 feet. This stupendous fabric stood a short time after its construction, and at length fell under the pressure of its own weight. One of the abutments is still standing ; and from its situation, visitants may judge of the former position of the bridge, and the almost impious presumption of man in attempting to overcome height, space, gravity, and the resistless fury of the elements. Vessels from the lake, 5 miles distant, ascend up the river to these falls, where they are laden and unladen by means of an in- chned plane — the descending weight being made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. v3 S55 CANAL ROUTE — ALBiON. The Rochester rail road ends here, and is connected with the navigation of the Lake — the carriages both for passengers and for burthen passing up and down every half hour. The great western level on the canal commences two miles east of Rochester ; from v.'hence to Lockport a distance of 65 miles, there is no lock. Between these places the route is mostly through a wilderness. Oc- casionally a new village is seen springing up on the banks of the canal ; and appearances indicate, that the forest on the whole line will ere long give place to cul- tivation and compact settlements. Spencer's Basin, a small village, is 12 miles from Rochester ; and from thence to Brockport is S miles. This is a fine, thriving village, containing between 3 and 400 houses, about 2500 inhab- itants, 12 or 14 respectable stores, 3 churches, a semina- ry of learning, and all the other concomitants of a neat and industrious town. At this place are annually pur- chased from 2 to 300,000 bushels of wheat for the Roch- ester mills. HoLLET, 5 miles. A short distance east of the vil- lage is the Holley Embankment and culvert, over Sandy creek, elevating the canal 87 feet above the level of the creek. Albion, 10 miles : a pleasant and improving village, with about 1000 inhabitants and a respectable share of business. It has some mill privileges and is surround- ed by a fine farming country. Eight miles farther, in the town of Ridgeway, a public road passes binder the CANAL ROUTE — LOCKPORT. 253 canal, through a handsome arch ; one mile from which, is the village of Medina, on the bank of Oak Orchard creek. It ■contains about 1500 inhabitants, who derive much ad- vantage from the water privileges afforded by the creek, and from the rich and fertile country in the vicinity. The village is in a thriving condition, and bids fair to become a place of some importance. The canal here crosses the creek over the largest arch on the whole route. There are circular steps leading to the bottom j from whence is a foot path passing underneath and leading to the village. As the boat " Avaits for no man," passengers desirous of seeing this artificial work, should go ashore before reaching it, and gain time by a rapid walk. They can be received on board again at the village, where the boat stops to land and receive passengers. M1DDLEP0E.T, 6 miles. LocKPORT, 12 miles. By far the most gigantic works on the whole line of the canal are at this place. After travelling between 60 and 70 miles on a perfect level, the traveller here strikes the foot of the " Mountain Ridge," which is surmounted by 5 magnificent locks of 12 feet each, connected with 5 more of equal dimen- sions for descending — so that while one boat is raised to an elevation of 60 feet, another is seen sinking into the broad basin below. The locks are of the finest imaginable workmanship, with stone steps in the cen- tre and on either side, guarded with iron railings, for the convenience and safety of passengers. Added to this stupendous work, an excavation is continued 254 CANAL liOUTE — LOCKPORT. through the mountain ridge, composed of rock, a dis- tance of three miles, at an average depth of 20 feet. When viewing this part of the canal, we are amazed with the consideration of what maybe accompHshed by human means. The village of Lockport is partly located on the mountain ridge, immediately above the locks, and part- ly below ; and though " founded on a rock," surround- ed with rocks, and with little or no soil, it has already become a place of much importance. In 1821, there were but 2 houses in the place ; now there are between 4 and 500, and upwarps of 4000 inhabitants. The vil- lage also contains a bank, and several commodious public houses. The canal here being on the highest summit level, and supplied with water from Lake Erie, (distant 30 miles,) an abundance is obtained for hy- draulic purposes, affording to the village a lasting and permanent power for mills and manufactories of various kinds. In the excavation through the mountain, several min- erals were discovered; among which were some of the finest specimens of dog tooth spar ever found in the U. States. At first they were easily obtained ; but they have lately become an object of profit, and are sold at prices corresponding with their beauty. Seven miles from Lockport,* at Pendleton, the ca- nal enters the Tonnewanta creek, and continues there- * Passengers in packets, who wish to visit the Falls, generally take U stage at Lockport, and proceed direct- ly to Manchester (the American Fall) 23 miles distant, or to Lewiston, 7 miles below the Falls ; visiting the latter afterwards. CANAL ROUTE — BUFFALO. 255 in 12 miles to its mouth, at Tonawanda, where is a dam 4| feet high. From thence it is continued on the bank of the Niagara 8 miles to Black Rock, (noticed in a subsequent page) where it unites with the harbor, and from thence on the bank of the river 3 miles, to the city of BUFFALO. It is situated at the outlet of Lake Erie. It is a beau- tiful and thriving town, and with the advantages of both a natural and artificial navigation, is destined to become one of the most important places in the state. Its present population is estimated at upwards of 12,- 000, and the number of buildings at rising of 2000. The Erie canal commences in this village, near the outlet of the Buffalo creek, and passes through an extensive and perfectly level plot, equidistant from the shore of the lake and the high grounds called the Terrace. From the canal are cut, at very suitable distances, lateral ca- nals and basins, rendering the whole of the lov)e.r town contiguous to water communication. Stores and ware- houses are so constructed as to receive the boats along side. In its location, Biiffalo is in the midst of the en- terprize and business of this new world. All the man- ufactures and migrating population from the north and east here find a resting place, and the agricultural pro- ducts of the xoesl, coming from the long extended lakes, here seek a new avenue to the Atlantic, The lov:er tov:n is rapidly spreading over that part below the Terrace, where begins a gentle and equal rise of ground, continuing nearly and perhaps quite two miles, and then falls away to a perfect level as far as the eye can 256 BUFFALO. reach, bounded only by the horizon. Upon this eleva- ted ground there is a charming view of the lake, Niag- ara river, the canal with all its branches, the Buffalo creek, the town itself, and the Canada shore ; a pros- pect from which every one parts with reluctance. The streets are very broad, and passing from high grounds over the Terrace to the water, are intersected with cross streets. There are three public squares of some extent, which add much to the beauty of the town. The public buildings are a court-house, situated on the highest part of Main-street, well proportioned and handsomely ornamented. The large park in front of it, which has been recently enclosed and set round with forest trees, will in a short time add much to the beau- ty of this part of the town. The Presbyterian meeting house, standing near the Episcopal church upon a semi- circular common on Main-street, is an edifice of very commanding appearance. There are other houses of public worship erected by the Congregationalists, Bap- tists, Methodists, Unitarians, Universalists and Catho- lics, some of which are beautiful specimens of architec- ture, and would do credit to any city in America. There are many spacious hotels for the accommodation of the traveller ; among which, the Eagle Tavern, formerly kept by Mr. Rathbun, now by Mr. Harrington, who is the sole proprietor of the establisj^ment, is considered one of the best in the union. The place (then a village) was burnt by the Briiish in 1814, when there was but one house left standing. This is still pointed out in the upper part of the town. It was not until considerable time had elapsed after this, that Buffalo began to be rebuilt, nor until tlie canal waa ftUFFALO. 257' located, did it rise with much promise. It is now a city, having been incorporated as such in 1832, is rapid- ly rising into importance, awd will become inevitably the Liverpool of Western New- York. Two years have made more improvements in that place than in any other town of the west. A ship canal 80' feet wide and 13 feet deep, was completed in 1833, across from the harbor, near the outlet of Buffalo creek to the ca- nal, a distance of about 700 yards. Also a boat canal commencing at the Big Buffalo creek, near Mr. Kip's railway, to the Little Buffalo creek, a distance of 1,600 feet. A rail road is making betw^een Black Rock and the city, along the line of the canal, and will probably be finished the present season, (1834,) and continued, as is contemplated, to the Niagara Falls. Within the past season there have been erected several blocks of four story fire proof buildings, intended for stores and warehouses, most of which were rented at a high price before the foundations were laid. Buffalo is thus rap- idly pressing on to distinction, having within her grasp those substantial advantages which lead to certain prosperity. The commerce of the place has increased at an unexampled rate. Between twenty and thirty steam-boats ply between Buffalo and various places on the lake. A morning and evening boat leave the har- bor daily for Detroit, and additional boats are building which will even increase the facilities of communication. A large number of square rigged schoouers whiten the lake with their canvass, and bear to and from Buffalo immense quantities of merchandize and agricultural products. 258 BUFFALO. As this place was the theatre of important events during the last war, the writer had expected to find in the city church yard some monuments to the memo- ry of the brave who fell during that period. But he discovered only ©ne ; it contained the following inscrip- tion : "To the memory of Maj. Wm. Howe Cutler, who was killed at Black Rock by a shot from the enemy, on the night of the 9th October, 1812, while humanely administering to the relief of the wounded soldiers, who intrepidly crossed to the British shore, and brought over the Adams frigate, that had been sur- rendered by Gen. Hull, and the Caledonia ship belong- ing to the enemy. He was in the 35th year of his age, and son of the late Henry Cuyler, Esq. of Greenbush, in this state." The Seneca Village, settled by about 900 Indians, principally Senecas, with some Onondagas and Cayu- gas dwelling amongst them, is from 3 to 4 miles south east of Buffalo. They own 49,000 acres, reaching to the very bounds of the city, a greater part of which is luxuriantly fertile. A mission is established on the reservation, and a school kept for the instruction of Indian children. Near the Seneca Village is a sul- phur spring, which is much resorted to during the sum- mer season. Stages leave Buffalo every morning and evening for Utica — the morning line going through by day-light in 3 days — the evening, day and night, in two days. A line also runs daily to Rochester. There are also seve- ral other lines which leave daily for Geneseo, Allegany, Cattaraugus, Cleveland, Sic. &c. WESTERN LAKES. 259 THE WESTERN LAKES. Before proceeding down the Niagara river to the Falls, it may be interesting to tourists to examine a brief description of the great chain of lakes whose waters flow through this channel. It will give a more ade- quate idea of the vast amount of waters which are uni- ted in this stupendous river. Lake Superior, the first and westernmost of these inland seas, lies betv/een 46o and 49° of north latitude, and between 64=* and 93° west longitude from London. Its length is 459, and its average width 109 miles. About 40 small and 3 large rivers enter into this lake, on one of which, just before its entrance, are perpen- dicular falls of more than 600 feet. The water of the lake is remarkably transparent, so much so, that a ca- noe over the depth of six fathoms seems rather suspen- ded in air than resting on the water. The outlet of the lake is called the river St. Marie, which is 90 miles long, its waters flowing into Lake Huron. This lake is on the boundary be- tween the U. States and Canada, 218 miles long from east to west, and 180 broad. Besides the waters of Lake Superior, it receives the waters of Lake Michigan, Vv'hich is 300 miles long and about 50 miles wide. At its northwest corner a large inlet opens, called Green Bay, about 100 miles long, and from 15 to 20 broad, into which Fox river empties. Three miles from the mouth of this river is Green Bay village, a very considerable settlement, and a U. States military post, called Fort Howard. The fort is built of stone, and is on a beautiful rise of ground. Steam-boats w I 260 WESTERN LAKES. from BulFalo visit tliis place occasionally during the summer — distance 807 miles. Besides the Fox, the St. Joseph and Grand, two very important rivers, and in- numerable smaller streams, discharge their waters in- to Lake Michigan. Near the mouth of the straits which unite the Michi- gan with the Huron lake, and within the latter, is the island ofMichilimackinac, commonly called Mackinaw, distinguished as a military post during the French war, and occupied as such by the government of the U. S, at the present time. The island is about 9 miles in cir- cumference ; the village of Mackinaw, which is on its south east side, is surrounded with a steep cliff 150 feet high. On the top of this cliff stands a fort ; half a mile from which, on another summit, 300 feet above the lev- el of the lake, is Fort Holmes, commanding an exten- sive prospect of both lakes. Mackinaw is 180 miles NE. of Fort Howard, 313 N. of Detroit, and 627 NW. of Buffalo. The waters of these lakes thus congregated, enter the St. Clair iiver, 40 miles long, to the St. Clair Lake, which is about 90 miles in circumference. From this lake they enter the Detroit river, on which the city of Detroit* stands, 9 miles below the lake, and communi- cate with Lake Erie, 19 miles from Detroit. *In the year 1811, a passage from Buffalo to Detroit, usually required from 5 to 7 days — some were made in less time, but in cases of head winds, the time was fre- quently longer. These passages were generally in schooners, the most of which were comfortably fitted up, and well provided. Travellers and merchants were, FROM BUFITALO TO NIAGARA. 261 Lake Erie is on the boundary line between tlieU. S. and Upper Canada. It is 290 miles long from SW. to NE., and in the widest part, 63 broad. Besides the waters of the upper lakes, it receives the Cayahoga riv- er and several tributary streams. Such are the sources of the Niagara ; a river infe- rior in splendor to none, perhaps, in the world. FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, on the American side. A stage leaves Bufialo every morning at 6 o'clock, passing through the village of Black Rock 3 miles, Tonawanda 9 miles, (where the canal enters the Ton- avvanta creek,) Niagara Falls 11 miles. Fare $1. This line, after giving passengers an opportunity of witnessing the Falls for 2 or 3 hours, proceeds to Youngstown, or Fort Niagara, passing through Lcw- iston. On the Canada side. A stage leaves Buffalo, daily, at 8 A. M. passes through Black Rock 3 miles, crosses the ferry toWatei- loo, 1 mile, and proceeds to Chippewa battle ground 1 5 however, not unfrequently, obliged to wait ten days for the appearance of a vessel, or a fair wind. Now trips are made in steamboats in about 40 hours. In pro- ceeding from Buftalo to Detroit, the boats land passen- gers at Erie, 90 miles — Grand River, GO — Cleveland, 30 — and at Sandusky, 55 — from whence to Detroit i.s 71 miles — total 305 miles. Boats also leave Buffalo daily for Erie, Penn. touching at Dunkirk and Port- land. 262 FORT ERIE. miles, Chippewa village 1 mile, Niagara Falls 2 miles. Fare, including ferriage, $1,12. Stages leave Niagara at 3 P. M. for Clueenston and Fort George. A steam-boat leaves Buffalo every morning at 8 o'- cioc-v, passing every other da}' around Grand Island, and reaches the village of Chippewa about noon ; from whence passengers take stages for the Falls. The boat returns to Buffalo at 7 P. M. Fare each way $1. Black Rock, 3 miles from Buffalo, is a village of considerable magnitude on the west bank of the Niag- ra river. It was burnt by the British in 1314 ; but has been rebuilt, and is much increased from its former size. Among its most prominent buildings is the private mansion of Gen. Peter B. Porter, late secretary of war, which has a very handsome appearance from the water. A pier in the river, about 2 miles long, affords a harbor to the village, and is used as a part of the grand canal. The dam, how'ever, has been found insufficient to with- stand the force of the current. Repeated injuries are sustained, and vessels now seldom enter the harbor. The Niagara river is here one mile wide, and is cross- ed in a horse boat. Opposite Black Rock, on the Can- ada side, is the small village of Waterloo ; a little south of which stand the ruins of Fort Erie, rendered memorable as the theatre of several severe engagements during the last war. The last and most decisive battle fought at this place, was onthe night of the 15th of August, 1814. The fort was occupied by the Americans ; and its possession was considered an object of impofta^Ks to the British. Taking advantage of the darkness of the night, they CHIPPEWA BATTLE GROUnTi. 20.1 made repeated and furious assaults, and were as often repulsed ; until, at length, they succeeded, by superior force, in gaining a bastion. After maintaining it for a short time, at the expense of many lives, accident placed it again in the hands of the Americans. Several car- triges which had been placed in a stone building ad- joning exploded, producing tremendoiss slaughter and death among the British. They soon retreated, leav- ing on the field 221 killed, among whom were Cols. Scottand Drummond, 174 wounded, and 186 prisoners. The American loss was 17 killed, 56 wounded, and 1 1 missing. This action was followed by a splendid sortie near the fort on the 17th of the following month, which re- sulted in a loss to the British of near 1000, including 385 prisoners, and to the Americans of 511 killed, wounded and missing. From Waterloo to Chippewa Battle Ground is 15 miles, over a tolerably good, though sandy road. The Battle of Chippeioa was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, and has been described as one of the most bril- liant spectacles that could well be conceived. The day (says a writer) was clear and bright; and the plain such as might have been selected for a parade or a tournament; the troops on both sides, though not nu- merous, admirably disciplined ; the generals leading on their columns in parson ; the glitter of the arms in the sun, and the precision and distinctness of every move- ment, were all calculated to carry the mind back to the scenes of ancient story or poetry — to the plains of Latium or of Troy, and all those recollections which fill w9 264 CHIPPEWA VILLAGE. the imagination with images of personal heroism and romantic valor. After some skirmishing, the British Indians were discovered in the rear of the American camp. Gen. Porter, with his volunteers and Indians, were directed to scour in the adjoining forest. This force had nearly debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when it was ascertained that the whole British force, under Oen. Riall, had crossed the Chippewa bridge. Gen, Brown gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance with his brigade, and to Gen. Ripley to be in readiness to support. In a few minutes the British line was dis- covered formed and rapidly advancing, their right on the woods, and their left on the river. Their object was to gain the bridge across a small creek in front of the American encampment, which, if done, would have compelled the Americans to retire. This bridge, how- ever, was soon gained by Gen. Scott and crossed, un- der a tremendous fire of the British artillery, and his line formed. The British orders were to give one vol- ley at a distance, and immediately charge. But such was the warmth of our musquetry that they could not withstand it, and were obliged to retreat before the ap- pearance of Ripley's brigade, which had been directed to make a movement through the woods upon the ene- my's right flank. The British recrossed the Chippewa bridge, which they broke down on their retreat, having suffered a loss in killed, wounded and missing, of 514. The American loss was 328. Chippewa Village is one mile north of the battle ground. It contains a small cluster of buildings and a few mills situate on the Chippewa creek, which runs IBRiDGEtVATER. 265 through the village. The steam-hoat from Buffalo lands passengers at this place."'' One mile farther is Bridgewater or Lundt's Lane, celebrated as the ground on which an important battle was fought, 20 days after the battle of Chippewa. The scene of ac- tion was near the mighty cataract of Niagara, within the sound of its thunders, and was, in proportion to the numbers engaged, the most sanguinary, and decidedly the best fought r^any action which ever took place on the American continent. The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of the regiments, the day after the engagement, contains many interesting particulars : "In the afternoon the enemy advanced towards Chippewa with a powerful force. At 6 o'clock Gen. Scott was ordered to advance with his brigade and at- tack them. He was soon reinforced by General Rip- ley's brigade ; they met the enemy below the falls. They had selected their ground for the night, intend- ing to attack our camp before day-light. The action began just before 7, and an uninterrupted stream of musketry continued till half past 8, when there was some cessation, the British falling back. It soon be- gan again with some artillery, which, with shght inter- ruptions, continued till half past 10, when there was a charge, and a tremendous stream of fire closed the con- flict. Both armies fought with a desperation bordering on madness ; neither would yield the palm, but each retired a short distance, wearied out with fatigue. *A steam-boat also runs from this place on the Can- ada side of Lake Erie, to Detroit. ^6G BRIDGEWATER. Such a constant and destructive fire was never before sustained by American troops without falling back. " The enemy had collected their whole force in the peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Wellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For two hours the two hostile lines were within '20 yards of each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the Glcngarian regiment caused the deception. They frequently charged, and were as often driven back. Our regiment, under Colonei Miller, was ordered to storm the British batter}' . We charged, and took eve- ry piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept possession of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at night, when we all fell back more than 2 miles. This was done to secure our camp, which might otherwise have been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of them killed, and there being no ropes to the pieces, we got off but two or three. The men were so excessive- ly fatigued they could not drag them. Y\"e lost one howitzer ; the horses being on full gallop towards the enemy to attack them, the riders were shot off and the horses ran through the enemy's line. We lost one piece of cannon, which w^as too much advanced, every man being shot that had charge of it but two. Seve- ral of our caissons were blo'.vn up by their rockets, which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of ammunition. The lines were so near that cannon could not be used with advantage.-' The British loss in killed, wounded and prisoners was 873, and the American loss 860. -NIAGARA FALLS. 267 The road to the falls passes cUreclly over the hill where the British artillery was posted at the time Scott's brigade commenced the action ; and the houses in the village of Bricigewater — the trees and fences in the vicinity, still retain marks of the combat. Many graves are seen upon the hill ; among- others, that of Capt. Hull, son of the iate Gen. Hall, who distinguish- ed himself and fell in this action. Most of the slain were collected and burned upon the battle ground ; on which spot it is in contemplatiort to erect a church. BURNING SPRING. About half a mile north of Lundy's Lane, and within a few feet of the rapids in the Niagara river, is a Burn- ing Spring. The water is warm and surcharged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The water rises in a bar- rel, which is covered, and the gas escapes through a tube. On applying a candle to the tube, the gas takes fire, and burns with a brilliant flame until blown out ; and on closing the building for a short time in which the spring is contained, and afterwards entering it with a lighted candle, an explosion u:iay be produced. A small fee for the exhibition is required by the keeper of the spring. Half a mile from the Burning Springs are the cele- brated NIAGARA FALLS. They are situated on the Niagaja river, which unites the waters of Lake Erie and the upper lakes with Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence. The river is 35 miles in length, and from half a mile to 5 or G miles in width. The banks of the river vary in their height above the Falls, from 4 to 100 feet Immediatelv below ths i€Q NIAGARA FALLS. falls, the precipice is not less than 300 feet, and from thence to Lake Ontario it gradually diminishes to the height of 25 or 30 feet. The Niagara river contains a number of islands, the principal of which is Grand Isl- and, which was ceded to the state of New- York by the Seneca nation of Indians, in 1815. For the grant the state paid $1000 down, and secured an annuity of $500. This island is 12 miles long, and from 2 to 7 broad. The Falls are situated below Grand Island, about 20 miles distant from Lake Krie, and 14 from Lake Onta- rio. At Chippewa creek, 2 miles above the Falls, the width of the river is nearly 2 miles, and its current ex- tremely rapid. From thence to the Falls it gradually narrows to about 1 mile in width. The descent of the rapids has been estimated at 58 feet. The course of the river above the Falls is north- westwardly, and below it turns abruptly to the northeast, flowing about a mile and a half, when it assumes a northern direction to Lake Ontario. The cataract pours over a summit in the form of a crescent, extending some distance up the stream. The sheet of water is separated by Goot Isl- and, leaving the grand fall on the Canada side about 600 yards wide, and the high fall on the American side about 300. The fall on the American side drops al- most perpendicularly to the distance of 164 feet. The grand or horse-shoe fall, on the Canada side, descends to the river below in the form of a curve, 158 feet, pro- jecting about 50 feet from the base. The whole height, including the descent of the rapids above, is 2 16 feet. 0)1 the Canada side. The view from the table rock, has been generally considered preferable ; but this point must be decided NIAGAHA FALLS. 869 by the different tastes of visitors. The table rock pro- jects about 50 feet, and between it and the Falls an ir- regular arch is formed, which extends under the pitch almost without interruption, to the island. The de- scent from the table rock is by means of a spiral stair-way, which is enclosed. Visitants desirous of passing in the rear of the great sheet of water, are sup- plied by the keeper of the stairs with dresses for that purpose, and with a guide. On reaching the bottom a rough path winds along the foot of the precipice and leads under the excavated bank, which, in one place, overhangs about 40 feet. The entrance into the tre- mendous cavern behind the falhng sheet should never be attempted by persons of weak nerves. The humid- ity of the atmosphere, which, at times, almost prevents respiration ; the deafening roar of the foaming torrent, and the sombre appearance of surrounding objects, is oftentimes calculated to unnerve the stoutest frame. The farthest distance that can be approached, is to what is called Termination Rock, 153 feet from the com- mencement of the volume of water at Table Rock. Few, however, have the courage to proceed that dis- tance, and seldom go farther than 100 feet. A large crack in the table rock, which has increased annually for some years, renders it very certain that a considerable proportion will ere long fall into the abyss below. The part thus cracked is nearly 50 feet in width, and might be blasted off without difficulty. The height of this rock has been ascertained to be 163 feet ; while that of the Falls, measuring from the bridge near the terrapin rocksj has proved to be 158 feet 4 in=^ ches. 270 NIAGARA FALL8. The Pavilion, kept by Mr. Forsyth, on the Canada side, is on a lofty eminence above the Falls ; affording from its piazzas and roof a beautiful prospect of the surrounding scenery. Jt is a handsomly constructed building, and can accommodate from 100 to 150 guests. Among the improvements lately made by Mr. Forsyth, is a new platform along what is called the upper bank, between his house and the river, giving an easy descent to the Table Rock, and also a new stair case from the rock to the'bank below, affording a pleasant and safe means of obtaining one of the best views of the Falls. He allows no charge to be exacted for descending this stair case, and provides guides and attendants for those who wish to pass under the falling sheet of water. From the Table Rock the traveller passes by the museum along the wooded bank of the river, until he arrives at the road leading down to the Ferry House, half a mile below the Horse Shoe Fall. At this point of the road he obtains a full view of the plot designed for the village of "Clifton." When the "Crescent" shall be occupied by tasteful cottages, and a little shrubbery added to the beautiful trees and plants which grow luxuriantly at present along its front, there will be few retreats more desirable, more picturesque, or healthful, as a summer residence, than this spot. The property consisting of forty acres of land, was purchas- ed in 1831 by Capt. Creighton, an Enghsh officer, who is indefatigable in ornamenting the ground, without al- lowing his improvements to interfere with the grandeur and magnificence of the surrounding scenery. A large stone building has also been recently erected for a pub- lic bouse, at the commencement of the ferry road : from NIAGARA FALLS. 271 whence a splendid view of both falls, the river, islands, &c. may be had. Row boats are continually crossing the river from the termination of this road. The rapid- ity of the current, the numerous eddies, and the agitated appearance of the water, are calculated to impress a stranger with the idea that a passage is hazardous. But we believe few if any accidents have ever happened. The boatmen are skilful, and the crossing is generally effected in about 15 minutes. The Falls on the American side, Though less gigantic, are nevertheless beautiful ; and would alone be considered one of the greatest nat- ural curiosities in the world. A flight of stairs has been constructed from the bank a few rods below the falls to the bottom. In consequence of a rodiy barrier in front of the falling sheet, it can be approached to within a few feet ; though not without encountering a plentiful shower of the spray. About a quarter of a mile above the fall a bridge has been constructed from the shore to Bath Island ; which is connected by means of anoth- er bridge with Goat Island. The sensation in crossing these bridges, and particularly the first,* over the tre- * Gen. Peter B. Porter, of Black Rock, to whom the public are indebted for the construction of this bridge, informed me that its erection was not effected without considerable danger. . Two large trees, hewed to cor- respond with their shape, were first constructed into a temporary bridge, the buts fastened to ^the shore, with the hghtest ends projecting over the rapids. At the extremity of the projection, a small pier of stone 21^ NIAGARA FALLS. mendous rapids beneath, is calculated to alarm the traveller for his safety, and hasten him in liis execur&ion to the Island. On Bath Island, mills have been erect- ed, contiguous to what is termed the race-way, vi'hich divides Bath from Goat Island. The latter, which is 330 yards broad, is principally a wilderness. On the southern and western banks an extensive view is had of the rapids above and of the grand fall on the Canada side. But the best view of the latter is obtained from a small bridge which has been erected from the island to the Terrapin rocks, adjoining the falls, 300 feet from the shore. From the end of this bridge, which is placed on the very verge of the precipice, the frightful abyss, cov- ered with a foam of snowy whiteness, is seen beneath. No one can witness it at first, without involuntarily shrinking back. A fear that the frail structure on which he stands may possibly give way, induces him to re- trace his steps with as little delay as practicable; and it is not until after repeated visits, that this alarm whol- ly subsides. was first placed in the river, and when this became secure, logs were sunk around it, locked in such a manner as to form a frame, which was filled with stone. A bridge was then made to this pier, the tempora- ry bridge shoved forward, and another pier formed, until the whole was completed. One man fell into the rapids during the work. At first, owing to the velocity with which he was carried forward, he was unable to hold upon the projecting rocks ; but through great bod- ily exertions to lessen the motion, by swimming against the current, he was enabled to seize upon a rock, from which he was taken by means of a rope. NIAGARA FALLS. 273 At the foot of Iris Island (adjoining Goat Island) is what is called the Blddle stair-icmj, erected by IN. BiD- ELE, Esq. president of the U. S. Bank. This affords a safe and easy passage to a position more favorable than any other for viewing this stupendous work of nature. The elevation of the island above the margin of the river or basin below, is 185 feet. The descent of the first 40 feet is effected by a flight £>f steps, commen- cing in the int-erior of the island, and descending in a rapid declivity to the brow of the perpendicular work, through a dugway walled on both sides ; the second flight is by a spiral stair way of 88 steps, down a per- pendicular building in the shape of a hexicon, resting on a firm foundation — the whole handsomely enclosed. From the foot of this building to the river below, (about SO feet) are three paths formed of stone steps, and lead^ ing to the water in different directions. * The amount of water which passes over the respecr tive falls, has been estimated by Dr. Dwight at more than 100 millions of tons an hour. No method can be devised for ascertaining the depth at the principal fall; but it is not improbable that it may be 6 or 800 feet ; as the depth of the stream half a mile below is from 250 to 260 feet. To a stranger who shall examine the rapids above die falls, it will seem incredible that Goat Island should * It was from ladders erected at this place that the celebrated Sam Patch made a descent of 118 feet into tlie water below, a short time previous to his fatal leaj> 9.t Rochester in the fall of i8?9. ^74 NIAGARA FALLS. ever have been visited previous to the construction of the bridge. Yet as early as 1765,* several French offi- cers were conveyed to it by Indians in canoes, care- fully dropping down the river ; and it is but a few years since Gen. Porter, of Black Rock, with some oth- er gentlemen, also made a trip to the Island in a boat. They found but httle trouble in descending ; but their return was difficult and hazardous. It was effected by shoving the boat with setting poles up the most shal- low part of the current, for half a mile, before making for the shore. Falling into the current within a rnile of the falls, is considered fatal. Several accidents of this kind have happened ; and no one, (save in the instance mention- ed in a preceding page,) has ever reached the shore» Many bodies have been found below the falls — those that have fallen in the centre of the stream, without any external marks of injury ; and those that have fallen near the shore, much lacerated and disfigured. The latter has probably been occasioned by coming in contact with rocks in shallow water, before reaching thes cataract. It is but a few years since an Indian^ partially intoxicated, in attempting to cross the river near Chippewa, was forced near the rapids ; when ^ finding all efforts to regain the shore unavailing, he lay ^down in his canoe, and was soon plunged into the ■ ^tremendous vortex below. He was never seen after- wards. * Trees marked 1765 and 1769,are still to he seen on the island. WELLAND CANAL. 275 T'here are two large boarding establishments on the American side, in what is called the village of Man- chester. The Eagle Tavern kept by Gen. Whitney, is the oldest and is entitled to a full share of patron- age. The other more recently erected, is a handsome building with pleasant and airy apartments. The vil- lage was burnt by the British in 1813 ; but it has been rebuilt, and though small, is larger than it was previous to that event. In giving a general description of the Falls, we have, in crossing to the American side, diverged from our proposed route. While on the Canada shore, it is re- commended to tourists to visit the Deep Cut on the Welland canal, eight miles west of the Falls ; return; proceed down the Niagara river through Glueenston to Fort George or Newark ; cross over to Fort Niagara or Youngstown, and proceed up the river, through Lew- iston to Manchester. For a short excursion, there are many objects of attraction on this route, which are no- ticed hereafter. The Welland Canal unites the waters of Lake Erie and Ontario, and is constructed for sloops of 125 tons burthen. The canal commences at Port Mait- land, at the mouth of the Grand river on Lake Erie, 40 miles west of Buffalo, and follows the channel of that stream nearly a mile and a half, and thence up Broad creek nearly a mile, where the artificial channel com- mences by a cut of 10 miles through a marsh. It then proceeds down mill creek 2J miles until it intersects the Welland river, into which it descends by a lock of eight feet lift ; thence a towing path is constructed along the banks 10 miles — the marsh excavation from x2 ^76 WELLAWlr CAN'At. 30 to 16 feet. From Welland river the canal runs in & northerly direction winding up a ravine C6 chains, hav- ing 8 or 10 feet cutting; where commences the deep cutting or dividing ridge, an almost abrupt height of 27 feet above the canal bottom. It thence runs gradually to 56 feet 6 inches in a dis^tance of 100 chains ; thence descends to 30 feet in 28 chains, which as abruptly breaks oflT in another ravine ; whole distance through the deep cut 1 mile 54 chains ; average depth 44 feet. To the depth of from 12 to 18 feet from the surface, it is a compound of clay, mixed With sand, and below this a tenacious blue clay. From the termination of the deep cut to that part where the mountain descends, is a distance of 4 miles and 23 chains, to lock No. 1 as it is called, although it is properly lock No. 2, From lock No. 1 the canal continues in a ravine 53 chains, gradually descending by 4 locks of 22 feet width ; and thence for 1 mile and 55 chains it winds around the brow of a hill. There are 17 locks in this distance^ and 60,000 yards of rock excavation. From this place the canal enters another ravine to St, Catharine's, a distance of 2| miles, in which there are 12 locks. This may be termed the mountain descent, as in a distance of 4 miles and 72-^ chains from lock No. 1, there are 32 locks, with a declination of 322 feet, 22 feet wide and 100 feet in the pool. From this to Lake Ontario, a distance of 5 miles, the canal is mostly in the bed of the Twelve Mile creek, There are three locks in this section, including the one at the harbor, each 32 feet wide and 125 feet long; and five positions are taken for dams, one of which is 23 feet high. Battle of queenston. 277 The whole length of this canal is 435 miles, a little more than 19 of which are slack water ; the total amount of lockage 334 feet. The Deep Cut is considered the most gigantic artifi- cial work in America, if we except the Desague near Mexico ; and with the precipice of locks which descend the mountain ridge, forms altogether one of the most interesting improvements of the age. From the Falls on the Canada side to GIueenston the distance is 7 miles, over a good road which passes the former residence of the Duke of Richmond, since owned by Sir Peregrine Maitland. Glueenston lies on the bank of the Niagara, and has little in its appear- ance indicating a prosperous or thriving village. The battle ofQ,ueenslon, which was fought at this place, occurred on the 13th of Oct. 1812. Gen. Van Rens- selaer, who had command of the American troops at Lewiston,on the opposite side of the river, determined on crossing over and taking possession ofCtueenston heights. The crossing was effected before day light ; and the ascent, which was up a picecipitous ravine, ri- sing near 300 feet above the river, was accomplished amid the tire of the enemy from his breastworks on the heights. As the Americans approached, the British retreated to the village below ; where their comman- dant. Gen. Brock, in forming his lines to reascend the heiffhts, was mortally wounded by a random shot. His aid, Col. M'Donald, then took command and ascended the heights, where he was also womided mortally. The Americans continued in possession but a few hours, when they recrossed the river. The pickets and breast works, though in a state of decay, are still vis- ible. 278 brock's monument. The spot on which Brock fell is pointed out to stran- gers. It was in a small field, since called Brock's lot ; and is reserved for the erection of a church at a future period. brock's monument Is on the heights, one fourth of a mile southwest of the village of GLueenston. It is composed of free stone ; and, excepting the base, is of a spiral form. It is a fine specimen of architecture ; and from its elevation, is seen for many miles around. Its height is 126 feet ; and the heights on which it is erected are 270 feet above the level of the Niagara river. The ascent to the top of the monument is by means of winding steps, 170 in number. It is extremely fatiguing ; but the prospect afforded of the surrounding country, for 50 miles in ex- tent will richly repay the tourist for the time and trou- ble in visiting its pinnacle. The following inscription appears on the monument : " The Legislature of Upper Canada has dedicated this monument to the many civil and military services of the late Sir Isaac Brock, Knight, Commander of the most honorable Order of the Bath, Provincial Lieut. Governor and Major General, commanding his Majes- ty's forces therein. He fell in action on the 13th of October, 1812, honored and beloved by those whom he governed, and deplored by his Sovereign, to whose ser- vice his life had been devoted. His remains are depos- ited in this vault, as also lus aid-de-camp, Lieut. Colo- nel John M'Donald, who died of his wounds the 14th of October, 1812, received the day before in action." LEWISTON. 279 Port George, or Newark, is 7 miles north of Q-ueenston, and is located at the entrance of the Niag- ara river into Lake Ontario. The village was burnt during the last war ; which event was followed by the burning of several frontier villages on the Ani'^rioan shore, as retaliatory. Fort George, near the village, is the most prominent, and perhaps the only object of in- terest presented. It is in a state of tolerable preserva- tion, and has generally since the war been occupied as a garrison by a small number of soldiers. The river is crossed in a horse boat, to YouNGSTOWN, containing from 40 to 50 houses, one mile north of which, and directly opposite Newark, is Fort Niagara.* It was built by the French in 1725,^ passed into British hands by the conquest of Canada, and was surrendered to the U. States in 1796. It was taken by the British by surprise during the last war, and abandoned on the restoration of peace. The works are now in a state of decay. Levviston is 7 miles south of Youngstown, and is directly opposite the village of Glueenston. It is loca- ted at the foot and termination of the Mountain Ridge, or alluvial u'ay, (noticed hereafter,) and at the head of navigation on the Niagara river. With the other fron- tier villages, it was laid in ruins during the late war, and was deserted by its inhabitants, from Dec. 1813, to April, 1815; but is now in a flourishing condition, * This is the place where the celebrated William Morgan was confined after his abduction. 280 LEWISTON. and its building.? exhibit much taste and neatness. A ferry is estabhshed between tlais place and Glueenston. While standing on the lofty bank, the rapid motion of the river with its various eddies, are far from invitmg, and seem to forbid the idea of a pleasant passage: but these sensations are removed soon after entering the boat. It is carried down for a considerable distance with much rapidity, but Mdthout danger. Every ap- pearance confirms the supposition, that at this place the falls once poured their immense volumes of water, but by a constant abrasion of the cataract, have receded to their present position, 7 miles distant. Stages leave Lewistown every morning for Roches- ter, distant 80 miles, passing on the Ridge Road, or al- luvial wa}^,* and reach Rochester at evening. Stages * This ridge extends along the south shore of Lake Ontario, from the Genesee river to Niagara river, a dis- tance of about 80 miles. The road is handsomely arch- ed in the centre, and is generally from 4 to 8 rods wide. In some places it is elevated 120 or 130 feet above the level of the lake, from which it is distant from 6 to 10 miles. The first 40 miles from Lewiston, of this natu- ral highway, is broken for a considerable extent, by log roads or causeways, bordered by impeiTious forests, occasionally relieved by the temporary huts of the re- cent settlers ; but the remaining distance is unusually level, and, M'ith some intermissions, bordered by a line of cultivation. It is generally believed that this was once the southern boundaiy of the lake, and that the ridge was occasioned by the action of the water. The gravel and smooth stones of which the ridge is com- posed, intermingled with a great variety of shells, leave little room to doubt the correctness of this opinion. It js a great natural curiosity, and should be tra-velWcJ devil's hole. 2S1 also run to Lockport every clay, distant 20 miles, passing through the Tuscarora village, occupied by a tribe of Indians of that name.* In pursuing the route from Lewis ton to the Falls on the American side, the traveller soon begins to climb the height or mountain describing the difference of 'al- titude between Lakes Ontario and Erie. The ascent is somewhat precipitous, but is overcome without diffi- culty. At the distance of two miles, the top is gained, and affords an imposing prospect of the almost inter- minable expanse below. The course of the mighty Niagara is easily traced to its outlet : where, from their prominence, are distinctly seen, Forts Niagara and George. The waters of the distant lake and the sur- rounding plains are so charmingly picturesque, that the traveller withdraws reluctantly, even to participate in the enjo^^ment of scenes more sublime. Three and a half miles from Lewiston is what is called the Devil's Hole, a most terrific gulf, formed by a chasm in the eastern bank of the Niagara, 150 or 200 feet deep. An angle of this gulph is within a few feet over by the tourist in going to or returning from the Falls. * Doct. SpafTord, in his Gazeteer of New- York, re- marks, that this tribe came from North Carolina about 1712, and joined the confederacy of the Five Nations, themselves making the Sixth. They still hold an in- terest in a very large and valuable tract of land in N. Carolina, which w\\\ not be extinct before A. D. 1911. They also own a very considerable tract of land in this state, deeded to them by the Holland Compnny. 282 LAKE ONTARIO. of the road ; affording to the passing traveller, without alighting, an opportunity of looking into the yawning abyss beneath. During the French war, a detachment of the British army, whilst retreating from Schlosser in the night, before a superior force of French and Indians, were destroyed at this place. Officers, soldiers, wo- men and children, with their horses, waffgons, baggage, &c. were all precipitated down the gulph. Those who were not drowned in the river were dashed in pieces on the naked rocks ! The Whirlpool is one mile farther south. It is formed by a short turn in the river, and can be viewed on either side : though the best view, connected with the rapids, is on the American shore. One mile far- ther, is a SiTLPHER Spring, used principally for bathing. The American Fall at Manchester, is a mile and a half farther, and has been already noticed in this work. LAKE ONTARIO. This lake is in length 171 miles, and in circumference 467. In many places its depth has not been ascertain- ed. In the middle a line of 350 fathoms has been let down without finding bottom. Of the many islands which this lake contains, the principal is Grand Isle, opposite to Kingston. At this place the lake is about 10 miles in width, and from thence it gradually con- tracts until it reaches Brockville, a distance of about 50 miles, where its width is not over 2 miles. About 40 miles of this distance is filled with a continued clus- ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 283 ter of small islands, which from their number have been distinguished by the name of the Thousand Is- lands. Though inferior in extent to the remaining four great western lakes, Ontario is far from being the least inter- esting. The north-east shore of the lake consists prin- cipally of low land, and is in many places marshy. On the north and north-west it is more elevated, and grad- ually subsides towards the south. The margin of the lake is generally bordered by thick forests, through which are occasionally seen little settlements surround- ed with rich fields of cultivation, terminated by lofty ridges of land here and there assuming the character of mountains. Some of the highest elevations of land are the cliffs of Torrento, the Devil's Nose, and the Fifty Mile Hill. The principal rivers which empty into the lake on the south, are the Genesee and Oswego. York, Kingston and Sackett's Harbor, all situated on the borders of the lake, are well known in connection with the history of the late war. ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. British side. — A boat leaves Niagara for Prescott, on Lake Ontario, and vice versa, four times a week, from whence stages leave for Montreal six times a week.* A steam-boat also commenced running daily in 1833 between Prescott and the head of the Long Salt Rapids, within twelve miles of Cornwall, overcoming without difficulty a navigation of the Rapide Plat and the Ga- * A boat also plies daily between Niagara and York, 284 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. loups, and thus reducing the land carriage between Ni- agara and (Quebec to thirfAj seven miles. The route from Niagara to Montreal is generally performed in three days, as follows : Coaches leave the Falls every day for Distance. Fare. Niagara, 14 $1 00 The Steamer Great Britain, leaves Niagara every five days, the Alciope, eve- ry Saturday evening, the J^iagara every Monday evening at 6 o'clock, and the Q,ueenston every Tuesday morning at 9 o'clock, for Kingston, Brockville, and Prescott, (board included,) 250 8 00 The Upper Canada line of Coaches* * Instead of the coaches and steam boat line here mentioned, another, which reduces the land carriage to Montreal to 37 miles, noticed in a previous page, can be taken. It is established daily (except Sunday) as fol- lows : By steam boat. Miles. From Prescott to Dickinson's Landing, 38 Bij coaches. " Dickinson's Landing to Cornwall, 12 By steam boat. " Cornwall to Coteau du Lac, via St. Regis Indian Village, 41 By coaches. *' Coteau du Lac to the Cascades, 16 By steam boat. " the Cascades to Lachine, 24 By coaches. " Lachine to Montreal, «... 9 140 FORT NIAGARA. 285 and Steam boats leaves Prescott daily, Distance. Fare, except Saturday and Sunday, for Mon- treal in the following manner : Prescott to Cornwall, by land, 50 Cornwall to Coteau du Lac, via St. Re- gis Indian Village, by steam boat,. . .41 Coteau du Lac to Cascades, by land, 16 Cascades to Lachine,by steam boat, 24 Lachine to Montreal, by land, 9 1 50 7 00 TOTAL. MILES, 414 $16 00 N American side. — Two new and splendid boats, the United States and Osw^ego, ply between Lewiston and Ogdensburgh, a distance of 268 miles, making a semi- weekly line between the two places, and touch on the route, at Fort Niagara, Genesee river, Oswego, Sack- et's Harbor, Cape Vincent, French Creek and Morris- town. From Ogdensburgh, a stage is generally taken for Montreal ; though passage boats, which descend as far as Lachine, are sometimes preferred. From Lewiston to Montreal is 3S5 miles, and the in-< terv'ening distances are estimated as follows : Miles. Fort Niagara, 7 Genesee River, 74 Great Sod us Bay, .. .. 35 Oswego River, 28 Sack el's Harbor, 40 Cape Vincent, 20 Morristown, 50 Fort Niagara, 7 miles from Lewiston. {See pag 279.) Miles. Ogdensburgh, 12 Galloup Islands, 5 Hamilton, 19 St. Regis, 35 La Chine, 53 Montreal, 7 286 CHARLOTTE — OSWEGO. Charlotte, at the mouth of the Genesee river, 74 miles from Lewiston, is a port of entry where there is a light house, and the commencement of extensive piers building by the United States, for improving the navi- gation. The river is navigable to the Carthage falls,* 4 miles ; from thence to Rochester* is 2 miles ; to which place passengers can always be conveyed by rail road carriages in readiness on the arrival of the boat. Ctreat Sodus Bay, 35 miles. This embraces East- Port and Little Sodus Bays, and has three islands of considerable size. The whole circumference of the bay, with its coves and points, is about 15 miles. Its waters arc deep and clear, and its shores have several elegant sites for buildings. Oswego, 28 miles. It is here that the Oswego canal, 38 miles in length, including 20 miles of the Oswego river, unites with the Erie ; thus joining the w^aters of" Lake Ontario with the Hudson. There is a daily line of packet boats running from Utica to Oswego, passing from Syracuse to Oswego by day light, affording the traveller an opportunity of viewing a great variety of^ sceneiy and an interesting part of the western canal navigation. These boats are new, of the largest di- mensions, and in the latest style of accommodation. On this route, 12 miles soutJi of Oswego, the traveller passes the flourishing village of Fulton, at which place there are numerous mills, and also a fall of some beau- * For a description of these places, sec pages 246 to 252. OSWEGO, §S7 tj; Oswego is situated on either shore of the river. Although it has long been noted in the historic page of our countrj^, still it may be said to have taken its rise since 1826, the year in vvhicii the state sales of surplus waters from the canal were rnadc. The village owes much of its importance, not only to the numerous mills and manufactories for which its location is extremely eligible, being unsurpassed by anyplace in the country for hydraulic power, but also to the extensive commer- cial intercourse that it has with the Canadiis and the western lakes. At the mouth of the river jutting into the lake, the U. S. government have erected a pier or mole at the expense of $100,000, rendering the harbor the safest and best on the American shore. To the party of pleasure for the Falls, a route from Syracuse (see p. 240) to Oswego and from thence by steam boat direct to Niagara will always prove interesting, without the fatigues attendant on stage travelhng. The following steam boats now visit the port of Os- wego in their respective trips between the Niagara riv- er and Ogdensburgh : The United States, of Ogdens- burgh, twice a week ; the Oswego, of Oswego, do. do. j the Great Britain, of Glueenston, U. C. once a week, on her route to Prescott from Niagara ; the Constitu- tion, of Coburg, U. C. between Coburgh, the Genesee river and Oswego, twice a week ; the William Avery, of Sacket's Harbor, between Oswego, Sacket's Har- bor, and Kingston, U, C. three times a week ; the Charles Carroll, irregular, from Oswego to the other ports on the lake. There is also a daily steam boat communication be- tween Oswego and Kingston, passage from 4 to 6 t2 288 sacket's harbor. hours. From Kingston there is also a daily steam boa^ communication with all the principal ports on the lake, A daily line of stages leaves Oswego for Utica, Au-- burn, Pulaski, Sacket's Harbor, and Watertown, an(f- a tri-weekly line for Rochester. Independent of the above inducements to the tourist to visit Oswego, in order to facilitate his jaunt, it also' claims his attention and notice on account of its anti-- quity and martial fame. Still are to be seen two forts' erected during the French war, which were besieged by Gen. Montcalm in 1756, and also one built during the revolution — fit subjects of contemplation and regard to the antiquary and the patriot. Among the public buildings in the villag-e, are a court house, 4 churches, a bank and an academy. The population is about 4000. The Welland House is one of the largest and best public establishments in the state. From its upper sto- ry an extensive and uninterrupted view is had of the lake, which is here 60 miles broad. Sacket's Har.eor, 40 miles. This was an import- ant military and naval station during the last war. The Barracks are situate about 400 j-ards north-easter- ly of the village on the shore. They are a solid range of stone buildings, and add much to the appearance of the place. Two forts erected during the war are now in ruins. On Navy-Point, which forms the harbor, there is a large ship of war on the stocks ; but which, probably, will never be finished. CAPE VINCENT — OGDENSBtRGH, 289 Cape Vincent, 20 miles. Kingston in Upper Can- ^ada, is on the opposite side of the lake, 11 miles disAnt, with Grand Island intervening. MoRRisToWN, 50 miles. The river here is but a mile and a quarter wide, on the opposite side of v/hich is the village of Brockville. OoDENSBURGH, which terminates the passage of the steam-boat, is 12 miles farther, and is situated on the east side of the Osvvegatche river, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. This is a thriving village, contain- ing about 250 houses, and a population of about 2000 inhabitants. A military fortification, consisting of two stone buildings and a number of wooden barracks was formerly erected here by the British government, but was ceded to the United States in 1796. A regular stage leaves Ogdensburgh three times a week for Plattsburgh ; from whence a steam-boat can be taken on Lake Champlain for St. John's or White- hall. Stages also arrive and depart twice a week, to and from Montreal ; and by crossing the river, a stage or steam-boat can be taken at Prescott for that place dai- ly. Passage boats, also, leave Ogdensburgh about ev- ery day, and descend the river as far as La Chine, 7 miles above Montreal, in 3 days. The boats are usu- ally furnished with every necessary implement for their good management, and with skilful pilots. The latter are more particularly requisite, as the current of the St. Lawrence is generally very rapid, and obstructed by numerous shoals and islands, which, by an inexperienc- ed navigator, could not without difficulty be avoided. 290 RIVER ST. LA1VRENCE. The principal rapids are three in number — the Longue Sault, the Rapids of the Cedars* and the Cascades of St. Louis. The first of these are 9 miles in length, and are usually passed in 20 minutes, which is at the rate of 27 miles an hour. The Rapids of the Cedars ter- minate about 3 miles from the Cascades, which, after a broken course of about 2 miles, pour their foaming wa- ters into Lake St. Louis. Lake St. Francis, on the St, Lawrence, is 25 miles long, and its greatest breadth 15. The borders of the lake are so low that they can scarce- ly be distinguished in passing along its centre. At the northern extremity of Lake St. Francis is situated the village of St. Regis, through which passes the bounda- ry line between the Canada s and the United States. The banks of the St. Lawrence exhibit a country re- markably fertile, and in many places under good culti- \'ation. The first settlements in this region commenced in 1783, and though about 50 years only have elapsed, it now exhibits many of the embellishments incident to a numerous population and successful improvement. The perpetual varying scenery along its banks, occasionally diversified with smiling fields aud flourishing villages, together with the islands and rapids of the St. Law- * It was at this place that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 300 men, coming to attack Canada, were lost. The French at Montreal received the first intelligence of the invasion. l)y the dead bodies floating past the town. The pilot -\\ ho conducted their first batleaux conniiitted an error by running into the wrong channel, and the other battcaux following close, all were involved in the same destruction. MONTREAL, 291 renoe, present a succession of novelties with which the traveller cannot fail to be gratified. Gallop Islands, 5 miles from Ogdensburgh. The river is here divided into two currents, the commence- ment of the great rapids beloAV. From these rapids the river descends 231 feet in 280 miles. On Stoney Isl- and (one of the Gallop cluster) the French had a strong fortress, which was taken and demolished by Gen. Am- herst, in 1760. St. Regis, 54 miles, is a village occupied by a tribe of Indians of that name, who have a reservation of land here of considerable extent. One of their chiefs, aged about 90, remarked to a gentleman of our acquaintance a short time since, that he visited the High Rock Spring at Saratoga nearly 70 years ago, ivhen the loater flowed over the top of the aperlxire."^ La CHINE, 53 miles. From thence to Montreal, which is 7 miles farther, the river road is generall)'^ preferred ; from which a charming view of the rapids and of sever- al islands is enjoyed. It also crosses the Lachine canal. MONTREAL. Is situated on the south side of the island of the same name, 131 miles from Ogdensburgh, and 170 from due- bee. The length of the island is 30 miles, its mean breadth 7, and its circumference about 70. The city extends along the St. Lawrence, about 3 miles in length * No one living near the Spring remembers to have seen the watet rise higher than within 8 or 10 inches of the top of the rock. At present it is considerably lower. ii92 MONTREAL. and half a mile in Midth. The buildings are mostly constructed of stone, and arranged on regularly dispos- ed but narrow streets. A stone wall formerly encircled the city, which, by the sanction of the government, was some years ago totally demolished. Montreal is di- vided into the upper aud lower towns. The latter of these contains the Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644, and under a superior and thirty nuns, whose occupation is to administer relief to the sick, who are received into that hospital. The French government formerly con- tributed to the support of this institution ; but since the revolution which occasioned the loss of its principal funds, then vested in Paris, its resources have been confined to the avails of some property in land. The upper town contains the Cathedral, the English Church, the Seminary, the Convent of Recollets, and that of the Sisters of Notre Dame. The general hospital, or Con- vent of the Grey Sisters, is situated on the banks of the St. Lawrence, a little distance from the town, from which it is separated by a small rivulet. This institu- tion was established in 1753, and is under the manaffe- ment of a superior and 19 nuns. Some of the public buildings are beautiful. Among these, the new Catholic Church, in grandeur, capacious- ness, style and decoration, is probably not exceeded by any edifice in America. It is 255 feet long and 34 feet wide, and is sufficiently capacious to hold 10.000 per- sons. JVeZson's Monument, near the Market Place, is an ob- ject also meriting an accurate survey. The JMuseum, belonging to the Society ofj^atural His- tory, contains a numerous assemblage of indigenous MONTREAL. 293 and exotic specimens, an examination of which will prove highly interesting to visitors of taste and science. A visit to the Nunneries can generally be effected without difficulty ; though a trifling purchase of some of the manufactures of the nuns is generally expected. The College is a large stone edifice, 3 stories high, and has a spacious yard on the south, adjoining to which is a beautiful garden. It generally contains about 300 sudents, and the terms of tuition are 80 dol- lars per annum. Connected with the college there is also a preparatory school, under excellent regulations. The Parade is a beautiful public ground, on which the troops are usually drilled. The prevaiUng rehgion here, as well as at Gluebec, is ihe Roman Catholic. The clergy derive a revenue from grants of land made to them under the ancient regime, and from contributions ordained by the church. Be- sides these, a principal source of revenue is from the fines for ahenation, which amount to about 8 per cent., paid by the purchaser of real estate, every time the same is sold, and which extends to sales of all real es- tates in the seignory or island of Montreal. The city, including its suburbs, contains rising of 30,000 inhabitants. The Mountain of Montreal, from which the city takes its name, rises about 2^ miles distant. It is elevated 700 feet above the level of the river, and extends from north to south 2 miles. This spot has already been se- lected for the residence. of some private gentlemen, whose elegant white mansions appear beautiful in con- trast with the surrounding foliage. The island of St, Helena, immediately opposite the city, is a delightful 294 LACHINE — VARENXES. little spot, from whence is had a fine view of Montreal, with its lofty mountain in the back ground, the settle- ment of Longueil, St. Lambert and La Prairie de la Madalene, on the east side of the river, and the. waters of the St. Lawrence dashing over the rocks of Lachine, and sweeping their course around a variety of islands. The principal public houses in the city are. Masonic Hall, in the north part ; Goodenough's, St. Paul street j and Mansion House, do. The climate of Montreal is salubrious, and the city had generally been free of epidemic diseases until the summer of 1832, when it suffered severely from the rav- ages of the Asiatic Cholera. It first made its appear- ance in the early part of June, and in two months swept ofr2000 emigrants and inhabitants. EXCURSIONS. Lachine, 9 miles from Montreal, with which it is connected by a canal, is a place of considerable resort. By taking the river road, a view^ is obtained of the Rap- ids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, and the Indian village of Caughnawaga. Varennes. a stage and steam-boat leave Montreal for Varennes, a beautiful village 1 5 miles distant, every morning and afternoon, returning the ensuing day. The lines of steam-boats plying daily between Mon- treal and Gluebec, also touch, both ascending and de- scending, to receive and land passengers. From the Varennes Spring Hotel, located in the village, is one of the most interesting views in North America, com- manding in front the mountainous land on the north shoi-e of the St. Lawrence ; to the west, the city and RIDEAU CANAL. 295 island of Montreal, the island and fortification of St. Helens, and the winding course of the river ; and on the east a most picturesque group of islands, with their varied channels ; while the rear presents the most fer- tile and highly cultivated district in Lower Canada, with the magnificent mountains of Chambly and Beloil in the distance. The Hotel, as a building, is capacious and furnished in a style of superior neatness and ele- gance. The Springs are one mile from the village, and are approached by a road on the bank of the St. Lawrence, forming a delightful promenade, where an extensive and commodious bath house has been erected. By an analysis of the waters, they prove to be possessed of valuable medicinal qualities, and are free from substan- ces which can be deemed deleterious. Varennes and its vicinity, therefore, present to those travelling in pursuit of health and pleasure, many attractions. The RiDEAU Canal. This work, whicii has been made at the expense of Great Britain, forms a naviga- ble communication between Lake Ontario and the Ot- towa or Grand River, which empties into the St. Law- rence opposite Montreal. The object of its construc- tion has been to secure, in time of war, the transporta- tion of military stores, &c. by an interior route, less ex- posed to the U. States, and practicable in lake vessels of 125 tons. The junction of the Rideau river with the Ottowa, which is the lower extremity of the canal, is ] 20 miles from Montreal ; and from Kingston, near where the canal enters Lake Ontario, it is 160 miles by water, and 130 by land. The discharge of the Rideau into the Otiowa, is marked by an extensive cove on the 296 RIDEAU CANAL. right bank of the latter river, in a ^lley existing be- tween the falls of the Chaudiere and Rideau. This point appears to have been reserved by nature for the purpose to which it is adapted ; and, indeed, bears eve- ry characteristic, both as to its banks and valley, of having been formerly the bed of the Rideau. The ele- vation of the mouth of the canal above the level of the sea is estimated at 1 10 feet, while it is considered to be 283 feet below the summit level on " Rideau Lake," and 129 below the level of Lake Ontario, at Kingston. Directly above the mouth of the canal, may be seen the beatiful and magnificent cataract of the Chaudiere. It consists of a series of falls, more or less extensive, and amounting in all to 31 1 feet perpendicular. But that which stands most prominent to view, and gives an appearance of grandeur to the whole, is at the broadest channel of the river, and known by the name of the Grande Chaudiere, or Big Kettle, from the peculiar formation of the cauldron into which the waters fall. This forma- tion consists of a hard laminated lime-stone, in horizon- tal strata, and worn into its present horse-shoe shape by the constant abrasion of the rolling water over its surface. The depth of the cauldron is said to be over three hundred feet — at least, a sounding line of that length could not be made to touch bottom. Next in interest to these may be mentioned the cata- ract of the Rideau, situated at the mouth of the river, where its dark green w'aters fall from an eminence of 37 feet, in a single unbroken sheet. The river finds its source in the Rideau Lake, 85 miles from the Ottowa, but is not occupied as the bed of the canal till about 6 miles above its entrance, it having been found more RIDEAU CANAL 297 expedient to make use of the natural valley and bay al- ready alluded to. At this point it became necessary, in consequence of the rugged and precipitate nature of the banks of the Otto wa, to overcome the difFerence of level between the river and canal by the construction of a series of locks eight in number, and each rising ten feet, giving an ag- gregate of eighty feet perpendicular rise ; constructed in a liberal workmanlike manner, and presenting an el- egant and commanding appearance. The estimated cost was £45,700. In the vicinity of the locks are two spacious basins for the reception of boats ; over one of which there is a stone arch, connecting Upper and Lower Bytown. About seventy miles of the route passes through ei- ther extensive lakes with bold and rocky shores, or soft swampy meadows, where good foundations were unat- tainable, save at great additional expense. Hence it became necessary to do away with the ordinary towing- path, and enlarge the canal to a surface of 48 feet, with a depth of 5 feet throughout, to admit the passage of steamboats from one extremity to the other. The towns of Upper and Lower By, so named after the commandant of engineers, Lieut, Col. John By, un- der whose superintendence the works were construct- ed, have already assumed a character and importance whicli, when their brief existence is taken into conside- ration, is truly marvellous. The towns already contain, in addition to their numerous dwelling-hosues, two large store-houses for the use of the Ordinance and Commissariat Departments ; three substantial build- ings for the accommodation of the troops, erected on, 298 UIDEAU CANAL. the highest eminence, so as to command both the river and canal ; an at a short distance and excellent mili- tary hospital. In the vicinity may also be seen, in the " Union Bridge," the execution of one of the most daring plans ever conceived. It connects Upper with Lower Cana- da, and is thrown directly ever the falls of the Chau- dicre, taking advantage of the numerous rocky islands embraced by the diverging liranches of the river at this place ; and forming altogether a most magnificent and imposing specimen of civil architecture. The bridge is composed'of six distinct arches, two of stone and four of wood, stretching from island to island with various spans, as circumstances required ; and forming an ag- gregate length of bridge-way of 781 feet. Takingleave of Bytow n and its vicinity, and proceeding along the line until it strikes the river, little of interest occurs, saving a singular break in an interesting ridge of land, extending for several miles at an average depth of about thirty-five feet. It is known under the name of the " Notch in the Mountain," and affords an opportune passage for the canal, which would otherwise, in order to pass it, have had to encounter a heavy excavation. At the point where the canal opters the channel of the river, are found strong rapids, confined on one side by a high clay bank, and on the other by a rocky shore. To overcome the fall existing here, which is about 30 feet, it was necessary to drown the rapids by the erec- tion of a large dam, and surmount the elevation by three locks. This dam backs the water as far as the ^* Black Rapids" — to which point, and indeed thence all the way to its source in the "Rideau Lake," the chan- RIDEAU CANAL. 299 nel of the river continues to be used. The Rideau, like other rivers in Canada, is a combination of rapids and long sheets of still water, alternately intervening, and to overcome which it is ever necessary to have recourse to locks and dams. There are fourteen rapids between Bytown and the Rideau Lake, which are destroyed by as many dams, and twenty locks of various lifts, amount- ing in all to 283 feet. The " Rideau Lake," which is the proper summit of the canal, is a beautiful expanse of clear green water, 30 miles long and 12 broad, surrounded on all sides by bold, rocky, and precipitous hanks. The only inter- ruptions which the navigation encounters across this lake are at " Oliver's Ferry" and the " Rideau Nar- rows," where considerable extra expense was incurred to overcome the currents there created by the contrac- tion of the waters. Continuing the use of the Rideau waters for the space of 45 miles on the summit level of the route, its course finally bends toward the *' Cataraqui River," which has an outlet in Lake Ontario near Kingston. An excavation of 10 feet for the distance of a mile and a half across the isthmus, existing between the "Ri- deau" and " Mud" lakes, was necessary to effect this object. The latter lalfe is 3^ feet below the level ofthe Rideau, and has a length of 12 miles, with an average breadth of 10, studded all over with innumerable small islands, which give it quite a picturesque appearance. It is intended eventually to raise the waters to the lev- el ofthe summit lake. Leaving this lake the canal enters the " Indian," and thence instead of making the long detour of the river, z2 300 RIDEAU CANAL. encounters a shallov,' cut, by which, in a more direct line, the distance is considerably shortened. Thence following the course of the "Cataraqui" to within 55 miles of Kingston, a dam is met with, backing the wa- ter as far as the last mentioned lake. The rapids con- necting this with " Davis' Lake," on the right side of the river, are surmounted by dams and locks, so that the navigation which was before hazardous, is now per- fectly safe. Again, following the course of the " Cataraqui River" for the further distance of 8 miles, and successively passing " Davis" and " Opinicon" lakes, together with their intervening rapids, surmounted as usual by a dam and lock, the tourist arrives at a. point called " Jones' Falls," 35 miles from Kingston. These falls descend 61 feet within the mile, and connect "Opinicon Lake," with " Cranberry Marsh," Avhere the river holds its course through a narrow rocky ravine. This fall is overcome by a dam and six locks. Thence, passing three more smaller rapids, with their customary works, the line at length reaches " Kingston Mills," where the Cataraqui empties itself into the Kingston Bay, a part of Lake Ontario, and 5 miles distant fi-om Kingston. This is the upper extremity of the canal on the Canada side, and is terminated at its junction with Lake Onta- rio by the erection of four locks of nine feet each. The entire cost of this canal, which with the Welland canal (heretofore noticed) forms a chain of internal communication between Halifax and the Gulf of Mex- ico, was rising of £600,000. ^RCM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 301 FROM MONTREAL TO Q,UEBEC 170 MILES. The St. Lawrence from Montreal to Cluebec is nav* igated by a number of excellent steam-boats, and the passage between the two cities is deUghtful. A large majority of the inhabitants of Lower Canada are crowd- ed together near the shores of the St. Lawrence, and few interruptions of forest land intervene in the whole distance between the two principal cities. The dwell- ings and cultivated grounds are so frequent and con- tinuous, that each side of the river, in fact, becomes al- most an unbroken street ; with groups of houses in the vicinity of the several churches, which are erected gen- erally in sight of the passing steam-boat, except onLsike St. Peter. The churches are from six to nine miles distant from each other, and upwards of twenty in num- ber, forming, many of them, prominent objects to give embellishment and charm to the novel and otherwise very attractive scenery. All travellers sleep one night at least on board the steam-boat while journeying be- tween the two cities ; and it is recommended that they should arrange the hour of departure from Gluebec, (which is always at low water) so that they may view by day-light that part of the river which had been be- fore passed in the night. A journey to Cluebec and back again, which a few years since was the labor of some weeks, may now be accomphshed, by means of steam-boats, in less than three days. The distance between the two cities is 170 miles — fare, $4. From Montreal, the boat first passes near the Fort on St. Helen's Island and soon enters the rapids of St. Mary ; in returning up which, steam-boats are often 302 WILLIAM HENRT — LAKE ST. PETEll. drawn by cattle. Proceeding down the river, the vil- lage ofLongueiljLonguePointe, Vercheres, Varennes, Point aux Trembles, Contrecoeur, Repentigny, St. Sul- pice, La Morage, Berthier and Machiche are succes- sively passed, before reaching the town oi William Henry, which is 40 miles from Montreal. It stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1665, on the right bank of the river Sore!, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. The present tov/n w^as commenc- ed in 1785. It is regularly laid out with streets, cross- ing each other at right angle?, leaving a space in the centre about 500 feet square. The number of dwell- ings does not exceed 200, and its population 2000. Near the town is a seat which was formerly the resi- dence of the Governor General of Canada, during the summer months. Opposite the town, the river Sorel is 250 yards broad, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons, for twelve or fourteen miles. On this river, which unites the waters "of Lake Champlain with the St. Law- rence, are two considerable forts, the one at St. John's and the other at Chambly. Sorel was occupied in May, 177G, by a part of the American army, under General Thomas, on their retreat from Gluebec. Lake St. Peter, some miles below the town of Sorel, is formed by an expansion of the river St. Lawrence, to 15 or 20 miles in width, and 21 in length. The waters of the lake have but little current, and are from 8 to 11 feet deep. At the upper end of the lake a variety of small islands arc interspersed, which are the only ones that occur in the St. Lawrence till you reach the island of Orleans, a distance of 1 17 miles. On the north side of this lake is the town of THREE RIVEUS. 303 Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. Maurice, %vhich is divided by two small islands into three branch- es. This town was formerly the seat of the Colonial Government, and is now considered the third in im- portance in the Province. It contains about 400 houses, including a Roman Catholic and an Episcopal church, and a Convent of Ursulines — also the barracks former- ly occupied by the governor, during the French regime- The number of inhabitants is estimated at 3000. Some miles up the St. Maurice are the celebrated falls of Shawinnegame, a beautiful cataract of about 100 feet descent. Seven miles below Three Rivers, the Richelieu rapids commence. The river is compressed within less than half a mile in width, and the water moves with great velocity for three or four miles ; but being deep and the cui'rent unbroken, except at the shores, the descent is made by steam-boats without danger, except in the night, when a descent is never attempted. The scenery of the St. Lawrence is occasionally re- lieved by the prospect of the distant mountains, the highest of which does not exceed 1000 feet, but rising in the back ground of the cultivated vales along the borders of the river, give an additional degree of beauty and novelty to many of its landscapes. The alternate variety of the waters of the St. Lawrence, now repos- ing in stillness on the bosom of an expanded lake, and now rushing with the rapidity of a cataract, added to the pleasing effect of the landscape scenery, afford an agreeable repast to the tourist, until he reaches the classic scenes of auebec. Soon after leaving Cape Eouge, and the little village of St. Nicholas, near the 304 QUEBEC. mouth of the Chaudiere river, the towers and citadel of this famous city open to view, situated on a rock of 345 feet in height, called Cape Diamond, from the gem-like quality of the chrystals which are found intermingled with tlae granite benenth its surface. In approaching the city, you pass Sillcry River and Cove, and Wolfe's Cove, where he landed his army to gain the heights of Abraham, about I5 miles from Ciuebec. Point Levi appears on the right, a rocky precipice, covered with white dwellings, and commanding the citadel of Glue- bee from the opposite shore. QUEBEC* Is situated upon a high peninsular point of land, ai the confluence of the Rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles, the junction of wluch forms a capacious and beautiful bay and harbom-. From the New Exchange at the extremity of the point on the north-east, the limits of the city jurisdic- tion extend in a direct line about north-west to a bend in the St. Charles River, near the General Hospital. On the St. Lawrence River the south-M^est point of the Banlieu is about oqai-distant from the Exchange, the whole plat approximating to atri.ingle, the longest side of which passes a short distance to the west of the Mar- tello Towers, measuring one mile and five furlongs or 2860 yards from the St. Charles to the St. Lawrence. * For a description of this place, the writer is princi- pally indebted to the " Picture of Gluebec," recently published in that city. QUEBEC, 305 A straight line drawn from one river to the other, at the Barrier on the south and west, is rather more than a mile in length, and the whole wall is two miles and three quarters in circuit ; but including the Citadel, the Esplanade, the different large gardens, and other va- cant spaces, a considerable proportion of the interior area within the fortification remains unoccupied for buildings. The city and environs are thus subdivided : That part which is within the walls is called the Upper Town, and can be approached solely by five gates. On the eastern side of the Cape towards the St. Lawrence, there is only one avenue to enter it, by a circuitous steep hill, through Prescott Gate ; which is the chief thoroughfare for all the commercial business of the port, especially during the navigable season, and then Mountain street, as this route is named, presents the appearance of a crowded and active population. On the north of the city, and where the promontory has considerably declined in height, there are two entran- ces — Hope Gate, not far from the eastern extremity of the rampart, and Palace Gate adjoining the Armoury and the Artillery Barracks. These gates are on that side of the city which is washed by the St. Charles. From the land there are two avenues to the interior of the fortifications : that to the east is known as the St. Louis Gate, which conducts by a beautiful road to the Plains of Abraham ; the other is at the end of St. John street, and thence denominated St. Johns's Gate. This !s the route through which the chief part of the country trade passes. 306 QUEBEC. The long street from the termination of the Banheu on the south-west, upon the St. Lawrence, skirting the Cape round to the Wood Yard belonging to the Gov- ernment, including Mountain street to tlie Prescott Gate, and all the other shorter streets between the hill and the river, are generally denominated the Lower Town. The portion between the road outside of the Gate of St. Louis and that of St. John street, to the line of the Banlieu, is called the suburbs of St. Louis. From St. John street northerly to the Cote St. Gene- vieve, and returning to the end of the Banlieu, all the buildings are i)icluded in the St. John suburbs ; and the large district extending from the Wood Yard along by the foot of the hill to the western extremity of the Banlieu, and bounded on the north-west by the St. Charles River, bears the appellation of the suburbs of St. Roch. As travellers are generally restricted to time, they have often failed to gratify their curiosity for want of a directory or guide, by which they might with the great- est facility view the inost important objects, and also from not having previously obatined a letter of intro- duction to some respectable citizen who would accom- pany them in their explorations. To remove these ob- stacles, the following methodical plan of an excursion through the city, and the accompanying descriptions are given. They will be found to be accurate, and will eave the tourist from innumerable perplexities, to which he would otherwise be subjected. Taking the Upper Town Market-House as the place of departure, the observer has on the west the ancient Monastery of the Jesuits, now used as the Barracks QUEBEC. 307 for the troops of the garrison. It is a capacious quad- rangular edifice of 75 yards by 67, encircled by a wall which measures on the north the whole length of Fab- rique street, and more than 200 yards on St. Anne st. The area enclosed, and which now is appropriated for the parades and exercises of the troops, was formerly an elegant garden. Fronting on the east side of Mar- ket-Place is the principal Roman Caiholic Church, which is open nearly the whole hours of day-light. It is a massive unornament- ed and spacious stone building. From the vestibule, the body of the interior is subdivided into equal pro- portions. At the termination of the nave is the gi-and altar in the middle of the ellipse constituting the sanc- tum, the walls of which are ornamented with represen- tations and figures, commingled with various other graphical emblems. Among the pictures are the con- ception — the Apostle Paul in his extatic vision — the Saviour ministered unto by angels — the flight of Jo- seph and Mary — the Redeemer and the cross — the na- tivity of Christ — the Saviour under the contumelious outrages of the soldiers — the day of Pentecost — and the Holy Family. During the siege of Cluebec, in 1759, this church was set on fire by shells discharged from a . battery on Point Levi, and all the paintings and orna- ments consumed except the first above mentioned, which was afterwards found among the ruins. The avenue north of the church conducts the tourist to The Seminary, a capacious superstructure of stone, in the form of a parallelogram. It is encircled by a large garden, walled in, measuring in the whole about seven acres. This institution was estabhshed in 1663, 308 QUEBEC. and was originally designed for the education of eccle-- eiastics ; but this exclusive system was long since abandoned, and it is now open for the reception of all who comply with its regulations. Attached to the Seminary is a museum of natural curiosities ; and on the left of the grand entrance from Market-Place is the vestibule of the chapel, in which are a great varie- ty of sacred paintings. From this the tourist can pro- ceed to the church ; and from thence to the Place cfJlrmes, where, on the east of the Pentagon, stood the Castle of St. Lewis, the former residence of the Governor, and which was destroyed by fire in the winter of 1834. On the west corner of the Place d'Armes stood the Episcopal church, which was burnt 4 or 5 years since. On the south side, and nearly ad- joining, is the Court House, a plain neat building of stone about 140 feet long, and as many broad. It stands where once stood a church belonging to the order of the Rec- ollects, which was burnt in 1796. On the corner of Fort street, south of the scite of the castle of St. Lewis, is a large building used for pub- lic offices, the front room of which on the first story, contains the Museum of the " Society for promoting Literature, Science, Arts and Historical research in Canada." A visit to it will prove extremely interest- ing. Crossing the Place d'Armes to Des Carrieres street, the visitor will next inspect the Monument, erected in memory of Wolf and Mont- calm. This consists of a base and a pillar, surmount- ed by a vignette of graphic delineation. The base is about 5 by 6 feet, and the whole height of the menu- QUEBEC. 309 ment is sixty-five feet. It contains two Latin inscrip- tions. After viewing from the promenade at the exte- rior of the Governor's quarters the beauteous landscape diverging to the north-east, the visitor will return to St. Lewis street, where, after passing the office of the Commissariat, he will turn by Parloir street, to the Ursidbie J^unnery and Church. This Nunnery and the land adjoining it occupy a space of about seven acres which is surrounded by a high barrier of stone. The institution Avas founded in 1639, and the edifice, which is of stone, is two stories high, 114 feet long, and about 40 broad. At the east projection is the chapel, about 100 feet long and 50 in breadth, the inte- rior of which is highly decorated. The convent is neat and includes a superior, 42 assistants and 7 novices, the chief emplo}'ment of whom is the tuition of a large number of girls in common knowledge and other qual- ifications. They are more rigid and retired than the inmates of any other conventual institution in Canada. Persons of distinction only are permitted to examine the domestic departments ; but the Chaplain, whose apartments are on the right of the entrance, permits strangers to examine the church on application to him. Among the paintings there exhibited, are the portraits of some of the Popes — the birth of Immanuel— the Sa- viour exhibiting his heart to the R,eligieuses — the Sa- viour taken down from the cross — a cargo of Christians captured by the Algerines— Louis xiii. of France — and several devices taken from the scriptures. The altars are highly ornamented and imposing. Leaving the nunnery, the visitor will next proceed by A»»e Street, with the south wing of the barracks on 310 QUEBEC. his right to the Presbyterian Church. Passing its front he will leave the jail on the right, where he pursues his course to the Esplanade. If he has no citizen as a companion, and no other mode of visiting the fortification, he should turn up St. Ursule to St. Louis street, and at the mili- tary offices request from the adjutant genera] a card of admission to walk round the interior of the Citadel. This stupendous fortress circumscribes the whole area on the highest part of Cape Diamond, and is intended not only to accommodate the garrison as a residence, parade, &c. but also to include all the mate- rials of war. It perfectly commands the city and river St. Lawrence ; and when completed, will be not only the most powerful specimen of military architecture on the western continent, but also a rival of many of the renowned works in the Netherlands. All attempts to describe the Citadel in its present unfinished state would be nugatory. Having entered the grand western gate, where the visitor leaves his ticket with a soldier on guard, and examined the edifice, he will first proceed round the course of the Citadel to the flag staff and telegraph ; thence southerly by the parapet bordering on the river to the machinery at the head of the rail-way, or in- clined plane, which is 500 feet long, extending from the wharf to the Cape, where its perpendicular eleva- tion is 345 feet above the stream. This rail-way is us- ed by the government alone, to convey stones and oth- er articles of great weight and bulk, for the erection of the new fortress, (iVE-BEC. 511 Having surveyed from tho highest point the majes- tic scene in every diversified aspect of hill and dale, land and water, the visitor will follow the course of the wall on his left hand, until he returns to the same gate, and pursue his walk by it, over St. Louis gate along the Esplanade, until he arrives opposite the church of the Coii^ireganistes, immediately below which is the national school house. Proceeding along St. John street, he will turn north of St. Stanislaus street, on the east side of which stands Trinity chapel, whence crossing- Carleton street, he arrives at the artillery barracks and the armory — the latter of which may be inspected, if a resident of the city be in company. Opposite the armory is the anatomical room of the medical society. Thence walking up Palace street, on the right hand is St. Helen street, where is Mr. Chas- seur's natural museum. Returning into Palace street, the visitor crosses obliquely above to Collins' Lane, in vi'hich stands on the left, the Chapel of the Hotel Dleu. These premises include a large proportion of the northern part of the interior of the city — commencing from the gate of the burial ground on Couillard street and extending to Palace street, with a wall on the north, parallel to the fortifications , the' whole space occupying about twelve acres. This institution was commenced in 1637, underthe auspices of the Duchess of Aiguillon, and was consecrated to the reception and care of the sick, who are indigent and distressed. It is a capacious edifice, the longest portion of which extends nearly one hundred and thir- ty yards by seventeen in depth, and three stories high. aa2 On the north-west side from the centre, a range is erect' ed two stories high, fifty yards in length, and nearly as many feet broad, plain and unadorned. This wing is appropriated for the patients ; the upper story of which is occupied by the females. All proper attendance both from the nuns and physicians, with every necea- sary comfort, is gratuitously administered. In the convent the sisterhood reside, who now include the superieure, thirty-three religeuses professes, two no- vices and one postulante. The regularity, neatness and purity with which the establishment is conducted, and the solace of the wretched who find refuge in this hospitable domain, are highly exemplary. The church of the Hotel Dieu externally is perfect- ly plain, and the interior is little adorned. The paint-- ings may be examined upon application to the chaplain. Having completed an examination of the Hotel Dieu, •V\nth the surrounding garden, the visitor may next fol- low Couillard, St. Joachin and St. George's streets to the Grand Battery and the ancient palace of the Catho- lic bishop, now used by the provincial parliament; or he can return to Palace street, and continue his prog- ress to the gate, where, by passing the guard house and pursuing his walk easterly, he may accurately un* derstand the nature of the defence which the city can make against external assault. The first hou^e at which he arrives is distinguished as the residence of the renowned Montcalm. There he may turn to thy right which Vi^ill lead him to Couillard street, or he can continue his walk passing Hope Gate, until he arrh'es at the Look-out from the north-east platform of tlie battery. In the lower town, the only objects which merit no- tice, besides the inclined plane or rail-way to the^Cita- del, are the Exchange Reading Room, and the Clueboc Library, which are always open for the admission of strangers, if regularly introduced, and are worthy of inspection. About one hundred yards from the lower end of the rail- way. General Montgomery and his aids with other men were killed on the morning of December 31, 1775, when proceeding to the assault of Gluebec. The place may be easily recognized, notwithstanding the altera- tions which have occurred. At that period, a narrow path only was made between the foot of the hill and the river, so that vessels were fastened to the rock by large iron bolts, one of 'w'hich still remains, near the very spot where the American General and his ad- vanced party were discomfited. The wharves, houses, &c. all have been long since constructed. At the top of the small ascent on the street immediately below, the small battary had been erected, near the plat where the southerly forge is now' stationed. As Montgomery led on the attack, the British retreated before him. In passing round Cape Diamond, the ice and projecting rocks rendered it necessary for the Americans to press forward in a narrow file, until they anived at the block house and picket. The General was himself in front, and assisted with his own hands to cut down and pull up the picket. The roughness of the way had so lengthened his line of march, that he was obliged to M'ait for a force to come up before he couLd proceed. Having re-assembled about 200 men, he advanced boldly and rapidly at their head to force the barrier. 314 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. One or two of the enemy had by this time ventured to return to the battery, and seeing a match standing by one of the guns, touched it off, when the American force was within forty paces of it. This single and ac- cidental fire struck down General Montgomery and his aids. Captain M'Pherson and Captain Cheesman. The remains of Montgomery were interred by a sol- dier of the name of Thompson within a wall that sur- rounded a powder magazine near the ramparts bound- ing on St. Lewis' gate ; and in 1818 were removed to New- York, where they were deposited beneath a mon- ument in front of St. Paul's church. The Plains of Abraham lie south and west of Glue- bee. The visitor, on leaving St. Louis gate, should turn up the stairs to the Glacis, continue his course under the citadel, and pursue a path to the right. At the termination of the enclosure, the bank is ascended to the Plains of Abraham, near the spot where Wolfe died. The large house at a distance in the front is erected on the scite of a French redoubt, which defended the as- cent from Wolfe's Cove, and was the primary object of assault and capture, after the top of the hill had been gained by the British troops. The precipice at the Cove, from 150 to 200 feet in height, and full of projec- tions of rocks and trees, seemed to be rendered almost inaccessible. General Wolfe, however with unparal- leled fortitude, led the w\iy in the night (Sept. 12,1759) through a narrow path winding obliquely up the hill, which, with the assistance of boughs and stumps, ena- bled him and his troops to gain the summit. Here, by day-light the next morning, they were formed in line of battle, in readiness to meet the enemy. PLAINS OP ABRAHAM. 315 General Montcalm, on receiving information that the British had possession of the heights, broke up his camp at Beaufort, crossed the St. Charles river, and at about 10 o'clock in the morning commenced the attack. After a desperate struggle of about two hours, in which both commanders had been mortally wounded, the French gave way, and left the field in possession of the victors. Wolfe fell at the critical moment that decided the victory. He was wounded in the early part of the en- gagement by a bullet in his wrist — soon after by a ball which passed through his groin — and it was not until a third had pierced his breast, that he suffered himself to be carried from the field. " I die happy," was his ex- clamation, when in the arms of death he heard the joy- ful shouts of victory. The Mortello Toicers, consisting offour circular forts, are situated at the northern extremity of the Plains of Abraham, about half a mile in advance of the exterior grand wall of the fortifications. They are numbered from the river St. Lawrence to the General Hospital, and guard the approaches to the city on the south and west. They are nearly 40 feet in height, with a base diameter almost equal ; and the exterior wall is of am- ple strength to resist a cannonade. Quebec, like Montreal, suffered severely from the Asiatic cholera in the summer of 1832. From the commencement of the disease in June, until its termi- nation about the first of September, it is estimated there were not less than 2,500 deaths ; being equal to about one tenth of its population. 516 FALLS OF M0i\-TMOREXCI. The Falls of Montmorenci, are situated about 8 miles north-east of Gluebec, on the river of the same name, near its junction with the St. Lawrence. These falls pour over a perpendicular precipice 240 feet in height, and may almost compare in beauty and gran- deur with the cataract of Niagara. The eficct from the summit of the cliff is awfully grand and sublime. The prodigious depth of the de- scent of the waters of this surprir-ing fall ; the bright- ness and volubility of their course ; the swiftness of Iheir movement through the air ; and the loud and hol- low noise emitted from the basin, swelling with inces- sant agitation from the weight of the dashing waters, forcibly combine to attract the attention, and to impress the mind of the spectator with sentiments of grandeur and elevation. The breadth of the fall is 3 00 feet; and the basin, which is bounded by steep cliffs, forms an angle of forty-five degrees. When viewed from the beach, the cataract is seen, with resplendent beauty, to flow down the gloomy precipice, the summit of which is crowded with woods. The diffusion of the stream, to the breadth of 1,500 feet, and the various small cas- cades produced by the inequalities of its rocky bed, on its way to the St. Lawrence, display a very singular and pleasing combination. Remains of entrenchments and fortifications erected during the French war are still to be seen near the falls. A battery occupied by Gen. Wolfe, in June, 1759, on the precipice north-cast cfthe falls, is yet visible. The French occupied the opposite bank; and Wolfe at- tempted to storm their works by fording the river be- Iqw the fall? and ascending the heights. ¥/ithout FALLS OP MONTMORENCr. 317 forming in a regular manner, and without waiting for additional reinforcements which were on their way from Point Levi, Wolfe's men rashly ascended the hil!, eager for the onset, and were cut down by the French artillery and musquetry, and obliged to retreat. The English loss was about 500 ; while that of the French was trifling. A storm coming on, further attampts to dislodge the French were abandoned. The British af- terwards ascended the river, and the action on the Plains of Abraham, which has already been noticed, took place in the month of September following. There are three points which afford the best views of the Falls. 1. From the upper window of the mill, whene the projecting leap is safely seen. 2. Having crossed the bridge, the visitor proceeds along the brow of the hill until he arrives nearly in front of the whole cataract ; from this summit, the view, with the concom- itant circumstances, inspire commingled emotions of awe, terror and astonishment. From the same spot there is a lucid and beauteous prospect of Cluebec, with its encircling scenery ; and with an ordinary mag- nifying glass, the observer can discern all the promi- nent objects — the steeples, towers, fortifications, prin- cipal edifices, the shipping, the course of the St. Law> rcnce, until it is lost among the hills — Point Levi and its vicinity — the north side of the island of Orleans — the point of Ange Gardien — and the shores of the river as far as Cape Tourment. 3. Hence the visitor de- scends the hill, and pursuing its course to the right, he may ordinarily advance to the rock which interrupts the turbulence of the stream when discharged into the chasm. In the view from below, the most vivid im- 318 LOKETTE. pressions of this gorgeous cascade are produced; and travellers who do not thus survey the falls, can form only a faint and incorrect idea of its apparently chang- ing effect. At a considerable distance above the Falls, the chan- nel of the river is contracted between high vertical rocks, and the water rushes with proportionate velocity. In one part, at about half a mile from the bridge, cas- cades of three or four yards in depth are adjacent to two fine geological curiosities, familiarly denominated the J^ahiral Steps, which appear to have been formed by the attrition of the stream, occasioned by the melt- ing of the snows and the augmented rapidity of the flood. Many of these steps are so regular, that they almost develope the process of human art. The per- pendicular attitude of the rocks on the east side — ^^the tree-crowned summit — the uniformity of appearance, resembling an ancient castle wall in ruins — the preci- pices on the western bank — and the foaming noisy cur- rent, pourtray a romantic wildness, ^vhich is highly at- tractive. Observers are amply remunerated for their walk, as, conjoined with this interesting object, they witness the continuous descent and the accelerating force and celerity with which the river is propelled to the point, whence it is precipitated into the St. Law- rence. LoRETTE, an Indian village, about 8 miles from the city, can be taken in the route to or from the falls of Montmorenci. It is built upon an elevated situation, whence there is an extensively varied and agreeable landscape, in many points similar to that from Cape Diamond, but also including some interesting novelties CHAUDJIERE FALLS. 319 of outline. It exhibits a bold and beautiful view of Q,uebec and its suburbs, and in its extent it is bounded solely by the distant southern mountains. The Indian inhabitants of the village retain many of the prominent characteristics of the aboriginal roamers of the forest, combined with vicious habits contracted by their prox- imity to a large sea-port, and their intercourse with its migratory population. At this village is a very charm- ing view of the river St. Charles, tumbling and foaming over the rocks and ledges to a great depth. The rug- ged and perpendicularly elevated woody chfTs, in con- nection with the impetuous rush of the waters, although circumscribed in extent, and therefore affording no ex- panded prospect in immediate front, yet, as seen from the Saw-Mill, and from the bank and the bridge at the head of the dell, in its different positions and aspects, constitute an object which, when contrasted with the more majestic cataracts of Montmorenci and the Chau- diere, or recollected in combinationwith them, furnishes in memorial an addition to the varieties which those stupendous natural curiosities embody. The Chaudiere Falls can be approached by land or water. The former is generally preferred, the dis- tance to the mouth of the Chaudiere being nine miles from Gluebec. From thence visitors can cross at the ferry and take an indirect path to the west bank of the river, or diverge from the St. Lawrence some distance north of the Chaudiere, and arrive within a short walk of the falls on the eastern bank. The river at the cas- cade is much compressed, being only about 400 feet across ; and the depth into the Pot, as it is usually termed, is about 135 feet. Many rocks divide the BB 320 ST. LAAVRENCE'RIVER. Stream, precisely at the fall, into three chief currents, of which the westerly is the largest — these partially re- unite before their broken and agitated waves are re- ceived into the basin ; where each dashing against the other maintains a turbulent whirlpool. The form of the rock forces a part of the waters into an oblique di- rection, advancing them beyond the line of the preci- pice, while the cavities in the rocks increase the foaming fury of the revolving waters in their descent, displaying globular figures of brilliant whiteness, which are richly contrasted with the encircling, dark and gloomy cliffs, while the ascending spray developes all the variety of the coloured cloudy arch, and enlivens the beauty of the landscape ; the wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, efful- gent brightness and the deeply solemn sound of the cataracts, all combining to present a rich assemblage of objects highly attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from the wood, is instantaneously surprised by the delightful scene. Below, the view is geatly changed, and the falls produce an additional strong and vivid impression. If strangers only view the falls from one side of the river, the prospect from the eastern shore is recommended as preferable. The Montmorenci and Chaudiere Falls, the village of Loretto and Lake St. Charles, together with the scenery of Orleans, a beautiful island six miles down the St. Lawrence, Beaufort and Point Levi, will always afford interesting excursions to the tourist atGluebec. The St. Lawrence below GIuebec. — Those who have not seen this part of this greatest of the navigable rivers in the world, can form but a very imperfect idea ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 321 of its grandeur, and the magnificence of its scenery. Above the island of Orleans, the St. Lawrence is com- paratively confined to a nan-ow channel passing through a level country, oflfering much sameness on the south shore, with the mountains on the north, too distant to produce much effect. The views on the great Lakes of the St. Lawrence in the Upper Province, stretching out of sight of land, differ little from those on any ex- tended sea coast studded with islands, and bordered with towns and habitations. The Sc. Lawrence below the Island of Orleans, from many points on its northern banks, lays open to the view a hundred miles of a river varying from twenty to twenty-five miles in width, the whole course and coast of which, in this clear atmosphere, can be distinctly discerned. Beautiful islands covered with neat dwell- ings and cultivated fields, contrast with those that are of bare rock, or covered with wood ; the crowded set- tlements, the villages and distant highlands on the south shore, are opposed to the bold and lofty moun- tains of the north, crowned with the native forests, and impending over the margin of the river, while the val- leys formed by the streams and torrents of these moun- tain regions, leave openings in which the village spires are discernible in front of the bare, rugged, and stupen- dous ranges in the inte^-ior. In other places the set- tlements extend nearly to the tops of the mountains, presenting to the view neat dwellings, luxuriant har- vests, ?i,nd gi-Ren fields, etched out on the face of the wildest of nciture's domains. Along the main channel of the rivor, numbers of the thousands of vessels which frequent Quebec during the yeason of navigation, ary 322 SAGUENAT RIVER. continually passing up or down under crowded sails, or quietly anchored, waiting the tides or winds, and from behind every cape and promonotorj'^, among the isl- ands, and in every bay and creek, the smaller vessels and boats are constantly plying in the industrious pur- suits of the inhabitants, or en excvirsions of social in- tercourse. It is a scene which elevates the mind to de- vout contemplation, and a just appreciation of the ben- fits of peaceful industry. The inhabitants of this part of the St. Lawrence are estimated at about 100,000. The Saguenay, whicli enters the St. Lawrence on its northern shore, about 100 miles below Cluebec, is one of the most extreordinary rivers in the world. It is the grand outlet of the waters from the Saguenay country into the St. Lawrence, and although only a tributary stream, has the appearance of a long mountain lake, in an extent of fifty miles, rather than that of a river. The scenery is of the most wild and magnificent description. The river varies from about a mile to two miles in breadth, and follows its impetuous course in a south-east direction, through a deep valley formed by mountains of gneiss and sienitic granite, which in some places rise vertically from the water-side to an elevation of two thousand feet. 'I'herc is a feature attendin^this river, which renders it a natural curiosity, and is probably the only instance of the kind. The St. Lawrence is about eighteen miles wide at their confluence, and has a depth of about two hundred and forty feet. A ridge of rocks below the surface of the water, through which there is a channel about one hundred and Iwentv feet deep, lies across the SAGUENAY RIVER. 323 tnouth of the Saguenay, within which the depth in- creases to eight hundred and forty feet, so that the bed of the Saguenay is absohitely six hundred feet below that of the St. Lawrence into which it falls, a depth which is preserved many miles up the river. So extra- ordinary a feature could only occur in a rocky country, ■uch as is found in some parts of Canada, where the beauties of nature are displayed in their wildest form. The course of the tide, meeting with resistance from the rocks at the mouth of the Saguenay, occasions a violent riplincf, or surf, which is much increased and ex- ceedingly dangerous to boats during the ebb tide. The extraordinary depth of the river, and the total want of information concerning it, has given rise to an idea among the credulous fishermen, of its being in many parts unfathomable. This effect is admissible on unin- formed minds, for there is always an appearance of mystery about a river when its water is even discol- oured so as to prevent the bed from being seen, and the delusion is here powerfully assisted by the lofty over- shadowing precipices of either shore. Following the course of the river upwards, it pre- serves a westerly direction to the distance of about sixty miles, in some parts about half a mile broad, in others expanding into small lakes, about two miles across to their borders, being interspersed with a few low islands. In the narrow parts of the river, the depth at the dis- tance of a few yards from the precipice forming the bank, is six hundred feet, and in the middle of the river it increases to nearly nine hundred. Here the navigation is suddenly terminated by a succession of falls and rapids, near which is situated the trading post of Chi- bb2 324 FROM QUEBEC TO MON'TREAL. cotimy. At this place there is an old church, built about two centuries ago by the Jesuits, who were ac" tive in civilizing the native Indians. The church is still kept in decent repair by the Indians, and is annually visited by a missionary priest. These people are few in number and are not to be met with between this tra^ ding post and the mouth of the river. A fine tract of country commences here, intersected by several rivers issuing fi-ora lake St. John, distant about sixty-seven mile's farther to the westward. The little communica- tion which is carried on with this lake is, by means of these rivers, in bark canoes, and batteaux, and flat- bottomed boats of the country ; but it is subject to much interruption from theportages, or carrying places, necessary to avoid the numerous falls in them. The tide of emigration is directed in this quarter. It was in this river, that the ships of the French squadron found a secure retreat, at the memorable siege of duebec under Gen. Wolfe. At the mouth of the St. Lawrence, 3G0 miles below Cluebec, the river is 100 miles wide. It here connects with the Gulph of St. Lawrence, 350 miles long and 150 wide, which com.municates with the Atlantic by three different passages. FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. In returning to Montreal, the traveller (as before re- marked) should, if practicable, take a boat at such an hour, as to give him a chance of vievv-ingby day-light on the river the scenery which, in descending, was passed in the night. PROM MONTREAL TO WIIITIlIIALL. S25 The approach to Montreal in ascending the river is extremely beautiful. The mount behind the city cloth- ■ed in a rich and unbroken foliage, the numerous adja- ;ent country seats, the spires and edifices of the city, and the beautiful woody island in front, all conspire in presenting a rich and truly diversified landscape, and one that vill not be easily effaced from the memory. jFor a description of Montreal, see p. 291.] FROM MONTREAL* TO WHITEHALL, Is 181 miles, and the intervening distances are as follows : Miles. Longueil, , . 2 Chambly, 13 Miles. Burhngton, 11 Split Rock, 12 Essex, 2 Basin Harbor, 12 Crown Point, 12 Ticonderoga, 15 Y/hitehall,' 24 St. Johns, 12 Isle Aux Noix, 14 Rouse's Point, iO Chazv, 12 Plattsburgh, 15 Port Kent, 15 From Montreal the St. Lawrence is crossed in a horseboat to Longtieil,t a distance of two miles. After * At Montreal a stage can be taken twice a week for Danville, Vt. distant 100 miles ; from thence to the Notch in the White Mountains, 28 miles ; from thence to concord, N. H., 75 miles ; and from thence to Bos- ton, 68 miles. The whole route is performed in four days. [For a description of the White Mountains, see " Raid e from Burlington to Boston.^''] t The route may bo varied so as to pass through La Prairie, a village of about 200 houses, and the grand thoroughfare for trade between Montreal and St. Johns, though the route through Longueil is considered pre- ferable. 326 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. leaving Longueil, the country becomes remarkably level, until you reach Chamblt, 13 miles distant. This is a considerable town, on the river Sorel, containing extensive barrack? and some troops. In the vicinity is High Mountain, vrhich confines between its conical summits a lake of pure water. The fort is built of stone, in a quadran- gular form, and resembles in its appearance an ancient castle. From this place the road follows the river, un- til you arrive at St. Johns, a distance of 12 miles. This place was an important post during the French and Revolutionary wars. In the latter it was taken, after a gallant de- fence, by General Montgomery, as Avas also Chambly. It contains, at present, about 100 houses and 800 in- habitants. Though a place of considerable business, it possesses nothing in its appearance or accommoda- tions inviting to a stranger. Steam boats leave St. Johns daily for Whitehall, and touch at all the inter- mediate places on the Lake. Fare through, $5. LAKE CHAMPLAIN, Forms part of the boundary line between the states of New- York and Vermont. Its length is 140 miles, and the gi-eatest breadth 14. A great proportion of the lands on the margin of the lake are still unredeemed from a state of nature, and in some places, particularly at the north end, are low and marshy. After entering the territories of the United States, the country is more populous, and under a better state of improvement. The villages seen from the lake all exhibit a cheerful and thriving appearance. The lake properly terminates PLATTSEURCai. 327 at Mount Independence; from whence to Whitehall, a distance of 23 miles, it assumes the appearance of a river, in which little more than room is left, at any point to turn the boat. The history of Champlain involves many interesting events associated with the French and nevolutionary wars. During those periods several for- tifications were constructed, which have since under- gone some repairs, but are now in a state of decay. The ruins of the ancient fortresses at Ticonderoga and Crown Point are still visible. Isle aux Noix, 14 miles from St. Johns. This is a strong military and naval post possessed by the Eng- lish. The works are generally in good preserv'ation ; and arc occupied by a small military corps. In the ex- pedition against Canada in 1775, the troops under Gen- erals Schuyler and Montgomery went down the lake in rafts and landed at this island, from whence they proceeded to St. Johns. The other detachment, under Gen. Arnold, marched by land through the present state of Maine, (then a wilderness) to Q.uebec. Rouse's Point, at the outlet of Lake Champlain, and 10 miles from the Isle aux Noix, contains strong 'stone fortifications, erected by the United States, but which by the decision of tlie commissioners appointed to settle the boundary line between the American and British governments, fell within the territories of the latter. The Village of Plattsburgh, 27 miles farther, is handsomely located at the mouth of the Saranac river, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It contains about 350 dwellings, besides the court house and prison for the county. The number of inhabitants is about 3000. 328 PI,ATT3BURGH. This place is rendered celebrated by the brilliant victory of M'Donough and Macomb, over the British land and naval forces under Sir George Provost and Commo- dore Downie. The naval engagement took place in front of the villajre, u'hich overlooks the extensive Bay of Plattsburgh for several miles. Here the American Commodore waited at anchor the arrival of the British fleet, which appeared passing Cumberland Head, about 8 in the morning of the 11th September, 1814. The first .gun from the fleet was the signal for commencing the attack on land. Sir George Prevost, witii about 14,000 men, furiously assaulted the defences of the town, whilst the battle raged with increasing ardor be- tween the fleets, then contending in full view of the re- spective armies. General Macomb, with his gallant little army, consisting of about 3,000 men, mostly un- disciplined, foiled the repeated assaults of the enemy, until the capture of the British fleet, after an action of two hours, obliged him to retire, with the loss of 2,500 men, together with considerable baggage and ammuni- tion. The American force on the lake consisted of 66 guns, and 820 men ; and was opposed to a force of 95 guns, and 1,050 men. Thus ended the affair at Platts- burgh, no less honorable to American valor than derog- atory to the British arms. Commodore Downie wss killed in the engagement. He was represent -^d os a brave and skilful officer ; but was opposed to the meth- od of attack on the American flotilla. Both fleets are now dismantled, and moored at Whitehall. A monument erected to the memory of Commodore Downie, in the church-yard at Plattsburgh, contains, the following inscription : PLATTSBURGH. 329 " Sacred to the memory of George Downie, Esq. a Post-Captain in the Royal British Navy, who glori- ously fell on board his B. M, S. the Coniiance, while leading the vessels under his command to the attack of the American flotilla at anchor in Cumberland Bay, off Plattsburgh, on the 11th September, 1814. To mark the spot where the remains of a gallant officer and sin- cere friend were honorably interred, this stone has been erected by his affectionate sister-in-law Mary Downie." The remains of a number of officers of both armies, who fell in the engagement, repose near the Commo- »:1ore, with no monument to inform the stranger, and with no record but tradition to denote the spot of their interment. East of Downie are five graves, occuiing in the following order: Commencing south — Captain Copeland, an American officer — Lieut. Stansbury, of ■ the American navy — Lieut. Runk, of the American ar- my — Lieut. Gamble, of the American navy — and a British Sergeant. On the north side of Downie are the remains of the British Lt. Col. Welhngton — on the south, two British Lieutenants — on the west Captain Purchase and four other officers, three of whom were British. The traveller will find many objects of interest at Piattsburgh, which will warrant his continuance there for one or two days. A short distance from the village are the cantonement and breast works occupied by Gen. Macomb and his troops during the last war. A mile north is shown the house possessed by Gen. Pre- vost as his head-quarters during the siege in 1814 ; be- tween which and the village, the marks of cannon-shot on trees and other objects, are still visible. Farther 330 PORT KExNT ADGATE's FALLS. onward, about 5 milep, on a hill overlooking the village of Beekmantown, is shown the spot where a sanguina- ry engagement took place between the American and British troops, which resulted in the death of the British Col. Wellington, and several mer/of both armies. Col. W. was killed in the centre of the road, about equi- distant from the summit and foot of the hill. M^Donongli's Farm, granted by the legislature of Vermont, lies on Cumberland Head, nearly east of Plattsburgh ; a ride to which, around the bay, in the warm season, is refreshing and delightful. Port Kent, 15 miles from Plattsburgh, is a spot selected on the lake shore for a new town or village, 17 miles southerly of Plattsburgh by land, and 15 miles by water. There are a few buildings, and a wharf erected, at which passengers are landed from the steam boat. From this place may be seen, on the north, the Isle La Mott, 26 miles distant, Grand Island, the Two Sisters, Point La Roche, Cumberland Head, and Bel- core and Macornb's Islands ; on the east, Stave, Pro- vidence and Hog Islands, Colchester Point, and the Green Mountains of Vermont ; on the south, the vil- lage of Burlington, about 1 1 miles distant, with the high peak called the Camel's Rump ; the whole form- ing a most delightful and pleasant landscape not excell- ed at any other point of the lake passage. Three miles west from Port Kent, are the celebrated Adgate's Falls. They are situated on the river A'Sable, and take their name from a person residing there, who is the proprietor of some valuable mills in the vicinity. The water pours over a precipice about 80 feet in height, into a narrow channel of the river, HIGK BRIDGE— BIRLSXGTON. 351 the banks of which consist of rock, rising perpendicu- iarly to the height of from 60 to 100 feet. At what is called the High Bridge, about half a mile belovv' the falls, the channel is narrov/ed to 27 feet. The height of the rocks here, which are perpendicular, is 03 feet, and the water 35 feet deep. Over this chasm a bridge was once erect- ed, by throwing timbers across ; but it is now princi- pally in decay. The sensations produced on looking into this gulf are terrific, and the stoutest heart invol- untarily shrinks from the contemplation. There is an indifferent road from the falls to the High Bridge, but with this exception the spot is yet a wilderness. About 4 miles in a westerly direction from this, is the thi-iving village of Kecseville, which contains several manufactories, a bank, one newspaper estab- lishments, and pevarR,l handsome residences. It is a place of much cnterprize, and will soon become a large town. Burlington is situated on the east side of Lake Champlain, about 24 miles south-east of Plattsburgh. This is one of those beautiful villages which so often attract the notice of a stranger in the New-England states. The ground rises with a moderate ascent from the lake and presents a slope covered with handsome houses and trees. On the highest part of the eminence, which is 339 feet above the level of the lake, stands the University of Vermont. This summit commands a noble view of the lake, and the adjacent country, for mn.ny miles. There are here about 300 l\ouses and cc 3o2 SPLIT ROCK — CROWN POINT. stores, two banks, a court-house, jail, and 3 churches,* About 12 miles from Burlington, in the town of Wills- borough, (N. Y.) is what is called the Split Rock. This curiosity is a part of a rocky- promontory projecting into the lake, on the west side, about 150 feet, and elevated above the level of the wa- ter about 12 feet. The part broken off contains about half an acre, covered with trees, and is separated from the main rock about 20 feet. The opposite sides ex- actly fit each other — the prominences in the one corres- ponding with the cavities in the other. Through this fissure a line has been let down to the depth of 500 feet, without finding bottom. Crown Point, is situated 36 miles from Burlington, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It is formed by an extensive deep bay on the west, skirted by a steep mountain, and on the north and east by the body of the lake. The elevated plain was first occupied by the French, in 1731, as a military position, and abandoned by them in 1759, when General Amherst took posses- sion of it, and built Fort Frederick. The ruins of this fort may still be traced, being situated directly opposite to Chimney Point on the south side of the bay. After the peace of 1763, it was occupied by a subaltern and a mere safe-guard, until it was burnt by accident some- time previous to the American Revolution. In 1775 it fell into the hands of the Americans, and was after- * Travellers designing to visit Boston, frequently take a stage at this place, on a route which is noticed in a subsequent part of this work. TICONDEROGA — WHITEHALL. 333 wards evacuated by them, on the advance of Burgoyne, in 1 776. A few years since a number of British guineas were found here, from the accidental crumbhng of the earth from the banks where they had been deposited. TicoNDEROGA, which has already been noticed, {see p. 139,) is situated 15 miles south of Crown Point, and '24 miles north of Whitehall. One mile from Ticonderoga, is Mount Indepen- dence, on the east side of the lake ; near the foot of which, the remains of a small battery are still to be seen. What was called the Horse-Shoe battery was on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. Nine miles farther, the lake is contracted into four narrow channels, bounded on the west and east by lofty mountains. South and East Bats are soon reached, each of about five miles in extent. The former was taken by Gen. Dieskau and his army, in their route towards Fort Edward in 1755. From the latter bay to White- hall, the pissage is extremely narrow and of a serpen- tine course, and cannot be pursued in safety during a dark night. Whitehall, terminates the steam-boat navigation of Lake Champlain. It is an incorporated villnge sit- uated on the west bank of Wood Creek at its entrance into the lake, 73 miles north of Albany, and contains about 200 dwellings and stores, and 1,500 inhabitants. The situation of this place is low and unpleasant ; and it derives its principal consequence from the naviga- tion of the lake, which is passable for sloops of 80 tons burthen, and from the northern canal, which here enters 334 :hampi.ain canal. the lake. Burgoyne occupied this place for a short time, preparatory to his march to Saratoga ; and on the heights, over the harbor, are the remains of a battery and block house.* THE CHAMPLAIN CANAL. Commencing' at Whitehall, proceeds south five and a half miles, when it enters Yv^ood Creek, a narrow slug- gish stream, averaging 15 feet in depth. This creek is connected with the canal, and is rendered navigable for boats, for about 6^ miles, to Fort Ann village. From thence the canal proceeds through Fort Ann, Kings- bury, and Fort Edward, to Fort Miller Falls, below which the canal enters the river, which is made naviga- ble 3 miles to Saratoga Falls, where the canal is taken out of the river on the west side, and proceeds through Saratoga,Stillwater andHalfmoon, to Waterford, where it enters the Hudson, and by a branch canal enters the Mohawk, which it crosses by a dam, and after passing I of a mile joins the Erie canal in the town of Water- vleit. The whole length of the Champlain canal is 63 miles. The cost to the state, exclusive of the feeder from Glen's Falls, was $875,000. The intervening distances on the canal betv.'esn Whitehall and Albany are as follows : + A route from this place to Boston is noticed in a gubsequent part of this work. FROM WHITEHALL TO ALP \NT. 335 Miles. Fort Ann, 12 Sandy Hill, 8 Fort Edward, 2 Fort Miller Falls, 8 Saratoga Falls, 3 Schuyierville, 2 Bemus' Heights, 12 Miles. Stillwater V 3 Mechauicy Ville, 3 Waterford, 8 Watervleit, 2 Gibbon's Ville, 2 Albany, 6 FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY. BT STAGE AND RAIL ROAD. Stages leave Whitehall every morning on the arrival of the Champlain steam-boats, and reach Saratoga Springs in time to dine ; from whence the rail road is taken for Albany, immediately after dinner. The whole distance is 75^ miles— fare $3,50— and the intermedi- ate distances as foUov/s: Miles. By Rail Road. Ballston Spa, 6^ Ballston Lake, 5 Schenectadv, 10 Buel's Farm, 12 Albany, 3 Miles. By Stage. From Whitehall to Fort Ann, 11 SandvHiU...... 10 Foit Ville, 7 Wilton, 4 Saratoga Springs, .... 7 The route is in a southern direction near the line of the canal, until reaching Fort Ann ; half a mile north of which place, at an elbow made by Wood Creek, leaving barely room between the creek and a precipi- tous hill for the road, a severe engagement took place in 1777, between a detachment of Burgoyne's troops, and a party of Americans, under the command of Col. Sterry, who were on their retreat from Ticoderoga. The Americans v/ere on the plain south of the hill, cc2 336 FORT ANNE — FORT VILLE. which served as a cover to the British. Their fire on Sterry's forces below was destructive, and compelled him to abandon his position. The village of Fort Anne, 11 miles from Whitehall, contains 70 or 80 houses, and is located on the site of the old Fort erected during the French war. It was at the north part of the village on the bank of the creek. Burgoyne's road, commencing about 2 miles south of the village, and pursuing nearly the course of the pres- ent road, is still visible. It was a causeway, formed by logs laid transversely, a labor which became neces- sary in conveying his cannon and baggage waggons to Saratoga. Sandy Hill, 10 miles farther. (See p. 180.) Fort Ville, a small village in the town of Moreau, is 7 miles farther. About half a mile west of the vil- lage, there is a large Spring, which ebbs and flows reg- ularly with the tide. It rises through a body of beauti- ful fine sand, containing yellow particles of a metahc substance, and has been found to answer every purpose of the purest emery. It partakes, also, so much of the character of quick sand, that every weighty substance placed in the spring, even the longest sticks of timber, are soon drawn beneath the surface. Falling, or even stepping into the fountain, therefore, is considered ex- tremely dangerous. At low water, the surface is near- ly dry ; but at high tide, the water is seen boiling up at several points, covering an area of near a quarter of an acre. About a mile south of Fort Ville, the stage passes over an eminence, which affords a beautiful view of the fROM AL3AN'i TO BOSTOK. 337 Greet] Mounlains of Vermont, at the east and the inter- mediate country ; three miles from which is Wilton church ; from whence to Saratoga Springs is 7 miles. [For a description of the laiter place, together loitli the rov'e by rail rend to Albany, see pages 155 to 162.] ROUTES TO BOSTON. These are so various, that the traveller may always be governed by his own taste and judgment in a selec- tion. The route from Albany has been chosen by ma- ny on account of enjoying in the excursion a visit to the Lebanon Springs ; while others have preferred a course which should embrace the rich mountain scenery of Vermon and New-Hampshire : commencing their ex- cursions either at Saratoga Springs, Whitehall or Bur- lington. We therefore subjoin a description of the dif- ferent routes. FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON. From Albany, stages leave daily for Boston, which IS distanct 164 miles, and the route is performed in two days. One line passes through Bennington and Brat- tleborough, Vt, but the most usual route is thi'ough New-Lebanon, Pittsfield, Northampton, Brookfield, Worcester and Watertown. The several stages and distances on the last men- tion route are as follows : 338 K'EW^LEBANON, Miles, Bplchertown, lO Ware, 9 Brookfield, 8 Spencer, 7 Leicester, 5 Worrcstcr, 6 i-'iaiiiingham, SC Weston, 5 Watertown, 5 Boston, 10 Miles. Schodack, 5 Nassau,. ............ 12 New-Lebanon, 8 Pittsfield, 9 Dcilston, 6 Pern...., 7 Woitiii.'gtcn, S Chestei-field, 9 Northampton, 13 Hadley, 2 Albany, {see p. 135.) New-Lebanox, is a pleasant villaige in the town of Canaan, N. Y. bordering on Pittsfield, Mass, and is 25 miles from Albany. It contains a mineral spring of considerable importance, which is much frequented in the summer months by invalids. It is principally used for the purpose of bathing; but is much inferior to the Saratoga waters cither as a medicine or beverage?. The fountain issues from the side of a high hill, in great abundance, discharging at the rate of 18 barrels per minute ; and is used as a feeder for several mills. The water is remarkably pure and soft, and is perfectly tasteless and inodorous. Gas, in considerable quanti- ties, escapes from the pebbles and sand, and keeps the water in constant motion. It contains small quantities of muriate of lime, muriate of soda, sulphate of lime, and carbonate of Ume ; and its temperature is 73 de- grees of Farenhcit. Convenient bathing houses are kept in readiness at all times for the accommodation of strangers ; and there are a number of boarding establishments which, at different rates, afford proportionate fare. Among these, tlie Navarino Hotel, is a spacious and well fur- PITTSFILD. 339 nished establishment, calculated to accommodate from 100 to loO guests. Near the spring is what is called the Shakers' Vil- lage, containing a number of neat plain buildings, gen- erally painted yellow. The property of this society is held in common ; and they are said to possess nearly 3000 acres of fertile land. Besides agricultural pur- suits, they carry on several branches of manufactures, which are distinguished by excellence of workmanship. The singular regulations and ceremonies of these peo- ple, constitute an object of attention to tourists. Nine miles from New-Lebanon is the village of PiTTSFiELD, rendered elegant from its local situation, and from the neatness of its buildings. The village contains from 1 50 to 200 houses, a bank, a medical col- lege containing one of the best anatomical museums in the U. States, an academy, 2 printing offices and seve- ral stores. Here are annually held the Cattle Show and Fair of the celebrated Berkshire agricultural Society, which has been incorporated by act of the legislature ; and which has done more toM'ards improving the con- dition of agriculture than any other institution of the kind in the Union. The shov*' and fair, which occupy two 'days, never fail to impart an unusual degree of in- tsrest, and are always attended by immense crowds of citizens.* * About 24 miles north of Pittsfield, in the town of Adams, there is a Matured Bridge, but little inferior to the celebrated natural bridge in Virginia, The exca- vation or gutter is in solid lime rock, 40 rods in length, varying from 50 to 60 feet in height, through which 340 NORTHAMPTON'. Northampton is 43 miles from Pittsfield, and is one of the finest towns in New-England. It is situated a mile and a half west of Connecticut river, and M'as set- tled as early as the year 1G54. It contains two acade- mies, several churches, a bank, 2 printing offices, a court house, gaol, and 350 dwellings, s(