Qass- Book COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT NORTHERN rilCHIGAN ^EC 7 1898 NORTHERN MICHIGAN. rlandbook for 1 ravelers, INCLUDING THE Northern Part of Lower Michigan, Mackinac Island, AND THE Sault Ste. Marie River. With Maps and Illustrations, By JAMES GALE INGLIS,^ ^ GEO< E. SPRANG, Publisher. Petoskey, Mich. 1898. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 20579 •0 COPIES KECii. Table of Contents. ¥¥¥ Introduction. I. Northern Michig-an— Geog-raphical Situation. II. The Great Lakes — General Information. III. The Peninsulas of Michig-an— Geolog-ical History. IV. The Topog-raphj^ of Michig-an. V Transportation Facilities. VI. Climate and Clothing- VII. Bag-gag-e, Hotel Life, Fees, Etc. VIII. Amusements — Tennis, Golf, etc.; Bathing, Boating, Driv- ing, Bicycling. IX. Camping, Fishing, Hunting, Game Laws. PART I — Routes to Northern Michigan. BY RAIL. I. From Chicago to Grand Rapids : o. Via Chicago & West Michigan Railway-. b. Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway (Grand Trunk to Vicksburg). II. From Detroit to Grand Rapids : a Via Detroit, Grand Rapids & Western Railway. b. Via Detroit, Grand Haven & Milwaukee Railway. III. From Grand Rapids to Traverse City, Petoskey, Mackinaw City. a. Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway. b Via Chicago & West Michigan Railway, IV. From Detroit to Bay City, Cheboygan and Mackinaw City, via Michigan Central Railway. BY STEAMER. I. From Chicago to Petoskey & Mackinac. II. From Detroit to Mackinac. 'J PART II — Grand Traverse Bay. 1. Traverse City and Immediate E^nvirons. From Traverse City to Northport. The I^eelanaw Peninsula. 3. From Traverse City to Old Mission The Old Mission Peninsula. 4. From Traverse City to Charlevoix. (1) By Rail. (2) Via Elk Rapids and Intermediate Lakes. PART III— Little Traverse Bay, 1. Charlevoix and Immediate Environs. 2. Excursions from Charlevoix. (1) Pine Lake. (2) To East Jordan by Carriage Road. (3) To Beaver Island. 3. Petoskey and Immediate Environs. 4. Eittle Traverse Bay from Petoskey to Harbor Spring-s. 5. Excursion to Cross Village. 6. Excursions from Petoskey. (1) To Mackinac Island by rail via Mackinaw City. (2) The Inland Route. (3) Bear Lake. PART IV — Mackinac Island and Upper Peninsula, 1. Introduction (historical). 2. Mackinac Island. 3. Environs of Mackinac Island. 4. From Mackinac Island to Sault Ste. Marie. Lake Winibigon '' ' y/ ,N ^ K 5 'e, L„KT;.rj.:T/Tr 1/ S E G ' PREFACE, ¥¥¥ ^^HE object of this Handbook for Northern Michig-an is to supply the traveler with reliable information concerning- the points of interest in the various places visited, the natural features of the country, and the provisions for his entertainment, comfort and transpor- tation. In a word, in every way to aid him in deriving- the utmost pleasure and profit from his tour in this beautiful and fascinating reg-ion. This Handbook undertakes to be what the now famous " Baedecker's " are to the countries which they cover. Of course the widely differing- conditions require different treatment in detail, but the dig-nity, accuracy- and completeness of the Baedecker g-uides are the qual- ities aimed at in the compilation of this book. The whole work is based upon the personal knowledg-e of the author and publisher, who have long- been residents of the region described, and no pains have been spared to make this book as complete and perfect as possible. There are few reg-ions that offer more fascinating- and varied attractions to the intellig-ent traveler than northern Michigan. To its charm of location, swept by three great inland seas, is added the marvelous health- giving properties of its climate. The scenery is unrivaled in the world, varying from the weird and gorgeous grandeur of Pictured Rocks to the dainty beauty of the Sault Ste. Marie River or the exquisite contour of Little Traverse Bay which rivals, both in situation and color, the famous Bay of Naples. The native wildness of a great part of this reg^ion is an added charm. Its waters teem with fish, its forests with g-ame. Innumerable inland lakes of rarest beaut}^ afford a paradise for those who enjoy "camping- out," exploring-, and the sports of forest and stream. In foreig-n countries whose civilization reaches back into the Past for centuries, the principal points of in- terest are ancient ruins, g-reat cathedrals, art g-alleries, museums and historic monuments. While these will not be found here, yet the historic interest of this country is by no means insig-nificant, for it reaches back to the earliest French and Eng-lish explorers and in- cludes much that was central of colonial and early American histor3\ The, alas, too rapidly disappearing- landmarks of old Indian and early American life add in- creasing- importance to the appreciation and preservation of the priceless frag-ments which yet remain. It further remains to be noted that a country which stands first in the production of copper, iron and lime, whose shores are strewn with corals and ag-ates, whose rocks are full of fossils rare and beautiful, must have an interest to the scientific traveler of no small importance. In recent years increasing- and remarkably improved facilities for travel have made the charms of this country easily accessible to travelers from all points, so that every year increases by hundreds, if not thousands, the number of those who seek rest and pleasure on its shores. Prog-ress in this direction has been very marked in recent years. Pine vestibuled trains are run daily by the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway to Petoskey, Bay View and Mackinaw City, and by the Chicag-o & West Michig-an Railway to Traverse City, Charlevoix, Petos- key and Bay View. Complete suburban service to various resorts and fishing- grounds is everywhere pro- vided. The Michig-an Central R. R. and the Detroit, Grand Rapids & Western R. R. are throug-h connecting- lines with perfect connections with the east, while the Detroit, South Shore & Atlantic R. R. and the Minne- eapolis, St. Paul and Sault Ste. Marie R. R. continue the service from St. Ig-nace and the Sault across the upper peninsula to Marquette, Escanaba, Duluth, St. Paul, Minneapolis and the west. Transportation by water is equally complete. From eastern ports the Northern Transportation Co. have two mag-nificent steamers, the Northland and the Northwest (see pag-e 51) making- through trips from Cleveland, Buffalo and Detroit to Mackinac and Duluth, and the Duluth & Cleveland Steam Navig-ation Co. continue their justly popular service. While from Chicag-o we have the old reliable boats of the Seymour line, the Petoskey and Charlevoix, and the palatial express steamer Manitou of the Lake Michig-an and Lake Superior line (see pag-e 46). All these facts combine to make an imperative demand for a carefully prepared Handbook which will indicate, not only the prominent points of interest, but others equally important that mig-ht easily escape the transient traveler's notice ; which will g-ive brief but accurate description of the points of historic and scien- tific interest ; which will direct the sportsman to the places he most desires to find — in short a g-uide to every traveler, which will enable him to g-et quickly and readily from place to place, to enjoy intellig-ently what he sees, and to inform himself reliably concerning- that which he most wishes to know. The Handbook is divided into four parts beside the Introduction. Part One covers the various routes by which Northern Michig-an may be reached and aims to g-ive a rapid but complete sketch of the special items of interest which the traveler will pass en route. The other three divisions are based upon the three geograph- ical districts into which the country described is natur- all}" divided, namely : Part Two, Grand Traverse Bay, including- Traverse City with adjacent peninsulas. Part Three, Little Traverse Bay, including- Charlevoix, Petoskey, Harbor Springs, the Inland Route and their environs. Part Pour, Mackinac Island, including- the Cheneaux Islands (the "Snows"), St. Ig-nace and the Sault Ste. Marie River. As far as possible the descriptions have been pre- pared to embrace, in the details of the various routes, every item of interest, historic, scientific, scenic and general. It could hardly be hoped that mistakes do not occur, but the reader is assured that great care has been taken to avoid them. Any suggestions or corrections that may be noted in the actual use of the Handbook will be greatly appreciated by the author. The index in the back ot the book will be found of value for ready reference. While advertisements have been admitted into one edition in order to reduce the cost, scrupulous care has been taken to secure their absolute reliability, and they have been limited to those lines of trade concerning which the traveler most desires to know. In other words, nothing has been admitted merely for the sake of advertising, the needs of the reader being the sincere and single aim of this book. A library edition, without advertisements and bound in cloth, is also published and is commended to those who may find the book worthy of more than passing interest. The maps and plans have been carefully prepared and will, it is believed, be ample assistance to the trav- eler. The illustrations are abundant and chosen with a view to preserve many g-limpses of a rapidly-disappear- ing- life, as well as to illustrate the charms and beauties of this enchanted land. Tog-ether with the more prom- inent hotels, a list of private boarding- houses is g-iven, where those who prefer quieter living- may secure com- fortable accommodations at reasonable rates. While in this, as in other items of local information, every pains has been taken to secure accuracy, yet it will be remem- bered by the reasonable reader that chang-es are inevitable in all communities, and due allowance will be made. Grateful appreciation of the assistance so cordially rendered in every community in the preparation of this Handbook, is hereby acknowledg-ed. Special thanks are due to the officials of the Chicag-o & West Michig-an R. R., the Grand Rapids & Indiana R. R., the Arnold Steamboat line, the Lake Michig-an and Lake Superior Transportation Co. and the Northern Steamship Co. Also to Mr. Fred. B. Stimpson of Petoskey, Mr. W. O. Brunner of Grand Rapids, Mr. Thomas T. Bates of Traverse City, Mr. W. M. Spice of St. Ig-nace, for special favors rendered. The preparation of this Handbook, while an arduous has been a pleasant task. Our sincere wish is that it will be practically useful to the traveling- public and add something- to the pleasure and profit of a trip throug-h this delig-htful country. If INTRODUCTION. * ¥¥¥ I. NORTHERN MICHIGAN. Geographical Situation. THE first impressions of Niagara Falls are those of awe-inspiring- g-randeur. One wishes to contem- plate in silence the sublime spectacle, all other thoughts being- overwhelmed by the majesty of that mig-hty cataract. Gradually, however, details beg-in to suggest themselves. The dizzy heig-ht, the deafening- thunder of those falling waters, the wildness of the gorge with its raging torrent, the power displayed. All these and more begin to make distinct impressions on the mind. Among these details nothing is more impressive than the sense of the immensity of that torrent. The mind tries in vain to estimate in gallons or in tons the quantity of water plunging incessantly over that preci- pice, and the question at once arises, where does it come from — this unfailing and exhaustless flood ? If, with this thought in mind, the reader will glance at any good map of North America, he will gain a new conception of the significance of Niagara Falls. He will ^Several sections of this introduction do not concern the immediate needs of the traveler. They are written for the information of those who desire to know some- thing- of the g^eoloyic history and the g-eog-raphical sig-nificanceof the reg-ion the}' are about to visit, and may be omitted without impairing- the usefulness of the rest of the book. Yet it is hoped that most readers will find their perusal a pleasant and profitable employment for (juiet moments on steamboat or train when not employed in actual sig-ht-seeing-. 11 find that over its heig-hts sweep the waters of four great inland seas whose floods g-ather volume in ever increas- ing- ratio from the immense areag-e of which this system is the watershed. In the very center of these great waterways lies the region known as Northern Michig-an. Its position is strateg-ic and unique. One great peninsula pushes northward between Lakes Michig-an and Huron, blunt in form, 300 miles long- and 150 miles wide. Another great peninsala pushes eastward, long and narrow in form, between Lakes Michig-an and Superior, 300 miles long- and about 75 miles wide. At the point where these two peninsulas and three gTeat lakes meet, lies Mackinac Island, the g-eog-raphical and historic center of this wonderful country. II. THE GREAT LAKES, General Information. The four Great Lakes, Superior, Michig-an, Huron and Krie, whose waters pour over Niag-ara's precipice, embrace a mean shore line of 4,500 miles. The}^ drain and irrigate a country that may be roug-hl}^ estimated at 400 miles square. In this connection should be noted the remarkable fact that none of these lakes receives the waters of any g-reat river. In fact only a narrow fring-e of land separates them from the other g-reat waterways which touch them at every point. Immedi- ately to the northwest beg-ins the Saskatchewan system with its countless lakes and rivers pouring- into Hud- son's Bay and draining almost the whole Northwest Territory. To the west, and distant scarcely fifty miles, lies the Mississippi, draining even Minnesota, Wisconsin 12 and Illinois, althoug-h these states ag-greg-ate almost half of the coast area of the great lakes. The rivers of Indiana and Ohio flow southward to swell the Ohio river, itself a chief tributary to the Mississippi. While to the north the g-reat rivers of Canada flow, not into Lake Superior, but into Hudson's Bay. No rivers larg-er than the St. Joseph in Michig-an or the Nipig-on in Canada empty into the Great Lakes, but their vast sweep of drainag-e area contains countless small lakes and numberless little streams whose waters pour into these great inland seas. Lake Michig-an is 320 miles long-, 100 miles in width, and has a total area of 22,000 square miles. Lake Huron is 260 miles lon^, 160 miles in width, with an area of 24,400 square miles. These lakes have an equal elevation, being- 581 feet above the sea. Lake Erie lies about 8 feet below, while Lake Superior lies 20 feet above, being- 601 feet hig-her than the Atlantic Ocean. This matchless lake, the larg-est body of fresh water in the world, is 355 miles long-, 160 miles broad and has the immense area of 31,400 square miles. These g-reat fresh water basins, reaching- a depth of over 900 feet (the deepest sounding-s in Lake Superior show 1200 feet) have been literally carved out by various eroding- forces in the cycles of g-eolog-ical formation. The immense mass of sedimentary strata thus put in motion by the same forces, was g-radually deposited in "drifts" over a larg-e zone of the northern hemisphere. In the arrang-e- ment and rearrang-ement of this drift is found the problem of later g-eolog-ical formations and present sur- face conditions. These vast lakes add to their beaut}' of scenery, exhaustless water supply, immense fisheries and climatic influence, a commercial usefulness as hig-hways of 13 transportation which is beyond computation. They carry perhaps one-half the g-rain supply of the world. Across them is transported iron, copper, lumber and other products in quantities whose ag-g-regate sum the mind is unable to comprehend. They afford facilities for intercommunication which open doors of eas}' access to nearly half the continent. III. THE PENINSULAS OF MICHIGAN. Geological History. The two peninsulas of Michig-an form unique divid- ing barriers between three of these great lakes, like mighty wedges driven in between their rolling seas. These "wedges" have been the battlefield of many a geological period, the center of fiercest conflict between Nature's opposing forces. No one, therefore, can in- telligently traverse this country, so varied in formation and fascinating in contour, without some knowledge of its geological history ; and no account of this region would be complete without some resume of those primal, crucial, elements of world building whose sublime drama was enacted on these very shores. The writer there- fore ventures to narrate, in brief and simple outline, this geologic history including a section on present con- ditions and resources, which are but the result of formations whose beginnings reach back into the limit- less past. During those awful convulsions of Nature which mark the earliest (Archaean) period of earth formation the Laurentian Hills, which form the north shore of Lake Superior, w^ere thrown up — a part of that great backbone, which, in the form of a wide-angled V, ex- tended east and west from ocean to ocean across what 14 is now the center of North America, and which was all that then existed of this continent. These g-aunt and solemn Laurentian Hills have stood unmoved, un- chang-ed, through almost endless cycles of time, silent spectators of the building- of a continent. Michigan, with all the eastern states, was then the bed of a great arm of the sea whose flowing tides dashed against these rocks, now a part of the Canadian shores of Lake Superior. Then followed a period of land making, (1) by sub- sidence of the shallow sea; (2) by accumulating deposits of sediments; and (3) by internal disturbances and erup- tions. To the latter cause is due the g-reat copper and iron mines with the strange "pudding-stone'' formation of Keweenaw peninsula in upper Michig-an. To the other two causes are due the g*eneral conformation of lower Michigan and the great coal and salt measures which lie beneath its present surface. Michig-an was the last to reject the ocean, but finally the barrier was built and what was for long ages a great ocean bay now became an immense fresh water marsh, covered with dense veg^etation to be converted finally' into beds of bituminous coal. During- the long (Mesozoic) period which followed, the gradual process of rock formation was continued. The immense red sandstone quarries near Portage Canal, the lime formations of the Traverse and Macki- naw districts, rich in cretaceous fossils, and that peculiar soft rock out of which the waters carved, in later days, the far-famed Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior — all these belong to this period. While doubtless at this time there was the beginning of some g-reat depression running- along the St. Lawrence valley eastward to the sea, afterwards the channel of the St. Lawrence River, 15 yet the mind must continually force itself to realize that during" all these ages there were no oreat lakes nor any semblance of the?n^ but only vast stretches of Silurian and other deposits, the slow foundation-building- of our present surface superstructure. It remained for the fourth and last g-reat period (Cenozoic), to complete the formation as we have it now. The mighty glaciers of the ice age found their natural pathway across this region to the sea. They carved out our great fresh water basins like giant chisels, deep- ening depressions alread}^ begun, emphasizing the sharp distinctions between hard and soft stratafications and leaving on either side, in sublime confusion of moraines, those masses of drift deposits out of which the present topography of Michigan has emerged. After the glaciers, followed great flood periods, of which the Indians have legends, whose mighty tides washed shores that are now the tops of precipices, as at Mackinac Island, and formed those sweeping terraces which make the great plateaus of lower Northern Michigan. A profile of Michigan with elevations will be found on page 25. A study of this profile at this point will greatly assist the reader. IV. THE TOPOGRAPHY OF MICHIGAN. The present topography of Michigan may be summed up in a single paragraph. The great alluvial plain which sweeps northward from Ohio and embraces about two-thirds of lower Michigan, contains those rich clay deposits which give Michigan front rank in agricultural resources, and beneath which lie the gypsum beds of Grand Rapids, the coal measures of Jackson and lb the salt wells of Sag-inaw. Further northward a suc- cession of terraces sweeping- from east to west (see profile pag-e 25), marks the wash of a g-reater sea when Lakes Huron and Michig-an were one. The plateau which crowns these terraces was then an island, and the immense lime deposits of that Palaeozoic ag"e were laid there either in reg-ular strata of g-reat ledg-es such as are now quarried at Petoskey, or in permeations throug-h and throug-h the soil forming- the chemical basis of nourishment for the dense forests which afterwards covered this reg-ion. The coral formations of Traverse, the g-rotesque forms of cliffs at Mackinac Island and the Pictured Rocks, the silver and lead mines of Alg-omah near the Sault Ste. Marie River, the iron of Ishpeming- and the copper of Calumet, the ag-ates and pudding- stone and mass copper of Keweenaw, and silent over all the eternal Laurentian rocks of Lake Superior's northern shore, all these, in their turn, testify to the endless g-eolog-ic C3xles and fierce cataclysmic chang-es out of which this wondrous country had its birth. V. TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. On account of its central location, its resources in lumber, ores and other commercial products and its charm as a place of resort. Northern Michig-an has been the center of active transportation operations for many years, while recent facilities for travel have been so in- creased as to secure to the tourist all that could be asked of speed, comfort and convenience. In the height of the summer season, however, all accommodations— whether B 17 by rail or boat — are taxed to their utmost limit, and the traveler should not fail to make early choice of route and selection of berth or stateroom. So great a variety of routes are offered, and each includes so man}^ points or beauty and interest, that if possible the trip should be planned so as to come by one route and return by another. The added value and pleasure of the trip will more than repay the extra expense. Several trunk lines now run throug-h trains to all prominent points in Northern Michig-an. Reg-ular fares are computed at three cents a mile in lower Michig-an, and four cents a mile in the upper peninsula, but special excursion tickets may be secured to all points at g-reatly reduced rates (see schedule preceding- index). For details of arrival and departure of trains, boats, etc., the travel- er is referred to the time-tables and other helpful and attractive folders issued by the various transportation companies. Wood's Railway Guide, published monthly, is reliable and complete. VI. CLIMATE AND CLOTHING, The climate of Northern Michig-an is justly famed for its health-g-iving- properties. It is cool and bracing-, and while subject to the usual uncertainties of each sea- son, there are g-eneral conditions which are practically unvarying-. However warm it may be in the daytime it is always cool at nig-ht, so that the traveler should in- variably be supplied with wraps or light overcoat for evening- use, and ample bedding- should be provided for sleeping-, especially in summer cottag-es. Althoug-h there is a marked difference (from three to six deg-rees) 18 between the temperature inland and on the coast of the lakes, nevertheless those who are planning- to spend their time on inland lakes and awa}^ from coast breezes, should not neglect to provide both for cool evenings and sudden chang-es. A suit of not too light material, underwear of medium weight and good stout shoes will be found most serviceable for g-eneral use. VII. BAGGAGE, HOTEL LIFE, FEES. ETC, Complete arrangements are provided at all central points for the handling of bag-g^ag^e, both at docks, depots and hotels. Those who plan an extended stay in one place, especially if they expect to enter the social life of the more fashionable hotels and resorts, will need the same quantit}' and variety of clothing- as at home. But all others, especially those who are plan- ning- short stays in many places with any considerable amount of traveling-, will save trouble and expense by taking as little bagg-age as possible. Gratuities, fees, tips to waiters, hotel porters, etc., are not expected and should be indulg-ed in only in exceptional cases. Regular charg-es are made for all services rendered. There is little attempt at extortion and ordinary courtesy will invariably insure the traveler ever}' assistance he can reasonabl}^ expect. VIII. OUTDOOR AMUSEMENTS. Summer life in Northern Michig-an abounds in op- portunities for outdoor amusement. Tennis, golf and 19 kindred recreations are universal. Boating- in all forms is, of course, prominent, and good boats, both row and sail, ma}^ be rented at reasonable rates. Bathing- is a favorite pastime, especially on the inland lakes. In some places suits may be rented, but g-enerally it will be more satisfactory for those who intend to bathe to be provided with their own. The roads in Northern Michig-an are, for the most part, in fairly g-ood condition, and in many places line. Beautiful drives abound and g-ood liveries are to be found, even in small towns. To bicyclers we offer the following- sug-g-estions. While the roads are not all that could be desired, and in some places are entirely impracticable, still many quite extended tours can be comfortably made throug-h much charming and otherwise not accessible scenery. In places, notabh^ Mackinac Island, the roads are excep- tionally good. Those whose pastime is to be largely bicycling will do well to bring their own wheels, but bicycles can be rented in all the larger towns at reason- able rates. Roads available for wheeling will be noted in detail in connection with the town from which they lead. IX. CAMPING, FISHING, HUNTING. The immense virgin forests of Northern Michigan form one of its most attractive features. Nothing can exceed the exquisite sense of rest and delight which these forests bring to those weary and worn with the strain and tumult of life in a great city. No tourist will do justice to himself or his trip in this region with- out at least a taste of life in the woods and near to 20 Nature's heart. The g-reat trees, the g"entle murmur of the wind, the rich and beautiful carpeting- of mosses and wild flowers, the constantly chang-ing vistas and the restful quietness — all these and more combine to make such an experience rich in pleasure and profit, both to mind and body. The most practicable way to secure such a trip is to seek some one of the modest yet very comfortable little hotels or inns which may be found on many inland lakes. Rates are very reasonable, the traveler is saved much time, expense and annoyance incident to camping- out and has most of its advantag-es and charms. Those who desire the g-enuine experience, however, will readily find beautiful locations everywhere on which to pitch their tents. Of course camping- may be indulged in on almost any scale, but even in its most simple form the traveler is warned that there is but small economy and much hard work and annoyance. The writer is an ex- perienced camper and yields to none in his enthusiasm for this charming recreation, but deems it only his duty to speak from long experience this honest word of warn- ing, emphasized each year by a long list of bitter disappointments experienced by those who inconsider- ately rushed into "camping out" excursions. Favorable locations for camping abound everywhere and final selection can be best made by local inquiry. Outfits can be secured at the larger towns, but it would be bet- ter to make them up at home and ship direct to nearest points. Large parties are to be avoided, from six to eight being the maximum. Better make two entirely separate though neighboring camps, if a larger number is necessary. For life in the forest warm underwear and rough old clothes are desirable. Take nothing into camp, 21 especiall}' in the way of clothing-, 3^ou are not willing- to have spoiled or damaged. Waterproofs, rubbers and stout comfortable shoes are indispensable. A pair of slippers for evening- use "around camp" will be a g-reat comfort. These sug-g-estions apply equally to camping- out or boarding- at inns. In June and the first part of July the mosquitoes are a g-reat annoyance, but they beg-in to disappear about the middle of July. Various applications known as "mosquito dope" are on sale at drug- and hardware stores. They are hig-hly effective and should be secured without fail and freely used. Fishing- is the sport royal of Northern Michig-an. For years this reg-ion has been the paradise for the ardent disciple of Isaac Walton, and while there is little of what may be called "virg-in waters" strictlv speak- ing-, nevertheless it is certainly true that this reg-ion affords as fine sport for the fisherman as is readily accessible from any of our larg-e towns or cities. The very many streams and lakes available will be noted in detail in their proper places. Guides can be secured at from $1.00 to SI. 50 per day and are desirable, especially if the lake is not well understood. It will be found more satisfactory to remain in one place and "learn" the lake or stream than to g-o from place to place. In the long- run better catches will be made and more real sport enjoyed. Such a plan is more economical also, as in a short time the g-uide may be dispensed with. Good hunting- may also be enjoyed in season. Partridg-e, rabbit, fox, lynx, deer and bear are killed in larg-e numbers. We append a resume of the game laws of Michigan now in force. 22 GAME LAWS. Deek ma^' be killed from the 1st daj' of November to the 25th day of November, both inclusive, each year, in both peninsulas. Deer must not be killed or captured in the water, or by pit or tra.p, or by artificial light, or by use of a dog-. Non-residents who eng-ag-e in hunting- or killing- deer, shall be required to take out a license in the county where he proposes to hunt during- the open season; license fee, ^25. Residents of six months, who wish to hunt deer, shall take out a license from their county clerk, for which license they shall pay a fee of not more than 50 cents, such license to continue in force only for season issued. Not more than five deer may be killed by one person in any one year, and on an3' deer or part of deer shipped, shall be a coupon from said license, signed and detached by person to whom license is issued, in presence of shipping- ag^ent at point of ship- ment. Partridge (Ruffled Grouse), November 1st to December 15th inclusive. Upper Peninsula, October 1st to January 1st inclusive. Quail. November 1st to December 15th, inclusive. Woodcock. Aug-ust 15th to December 15th. Duck, Water Fowl, etc. Jacksnipe, red-head, blue-bill, canvas back, widg-eon and pin-tail ducks and wild g-eese may be killed between September 1st and Mav 1st. Other wild water fowl and snipe between September 1st and January 1st. Selling and Shipping Game. No person shall expose or keep for sale, directly or indirectly, sell or barter, any quail, woodcock or partridge in the State. Game cannot be shipped to points outside of State at any time. FISH LAWS. speckled trout, land locked salmon and g-rayling-, or Cali- fornia trout, may be caught May 1st to September 1st following. The killing- of fish by the use of dynainite or giant powder or any explosive, or the use of Indian cockle or any substance tend- ing- to stupefy the fish is unlawful. It is unlawful to spear any kind of fish, except mullet, grass 23 pike, red sides and suckers, during- the months of March, April, May and June in any of the inland waters of the State. It is unlawful to catch any fish excepting- mullet, red sides and suckers at any time in any of the inland waters of the State by the use of any kind of seines or nets. Bass, trout and grayling- must not be caug-ht in any way, at any time, except by hook and line in the inland waters of the State. It is not lawful to capture or have in possession any brook trout or g-rayling- less than six inches in leng-th. Streams in which trout and g-rayling- are not native, stocked with such fish, are protected by law three years after planting of such stream. It is unlawful to catch minnows for other purposes than for bait. It is unlawful to fish with a net within a radius of one hun- dred feet from any fish chute or ladder. It is unlawful to place in any stream, race or lake any kind of weir dam or any device which may obstruct the free passage of fish. The purchase, sale, carriage or possession of brook trout or grayling during the closed season is forbidden. The violation of the law is punishable by fine or imprison- ment. CRAND RAPIDS HOWARD CITY 34 MILES. CADILLAC 100 MILES. PETOSKEY,^ 191 MILES. f MACKINAW CITY • 230 MILES. -^^ ?i EXPLANATORY NOTES to Pro tile on piPceiling page. Throug-h the kindness of Mr. Fred B. Stimson of the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway, we are able to present our readers with a reduced profile of the lower peninsula, setting- forth the topog-raphy and elevations of Michig-an for 230 miles nearly due north and south from Grand Rapids to Mackinaw City, embrac- ing about two-thirds of the lower peninsula. This profile will illustrate the g-eneral topographical condition described in Sec- tions III and IV of Introduction. Beginning- with Grand Rapids we note in the smaller plateau the overlapping- of that vast alluviul plain which extends northward from Ohio and forms the great agricultural belt of Michigan. From this point a second g-reat plateau rises slowly to the top of Manton Hill, a distance of 110 miles, intersected at 59 miles from Grand Rapids by the Muskeg-on river. This plateau reveals an intimate relation with the great flood periods when immense deposits of lime were, by later conditions, absorbed into the soil (rather than laid in reg-ular strata) to be- come the basis of nutriment for the dense and noble forests of pine and hardwood which have covered it. It maj- be known as the forest-belt of Michigan. It culminates in Manton Hill, 843 feet above the level of I^ake Michig-an, the highest point of land, from which descent is made to the third plateau. The third plateau, reaching from Manton Hill to Bonnie Hill, represents in its general conditions the same characteristics as that of the second plateau, with this exception, that, being sub- jected to severer action of the floods, its coast became more indented (e. g. the Grand Traverse Bay), its surface more rugged and un- even. Here, therefore, we find great numbers of inland lakes and small streams, as well as fine forests and abundant lime- stone formations It culminates in Boyne Hill, 630 feet above the level of Lake Michigan, from which rapid descent is made to the fourth plateau. The fourth plateau, extending from the foot of Boyne Hill to Mackinaw City, represents that section which was last to reject the water, retaining most of the characteristics of the two previous plateaus, but which, being subjected to even severer action in the rush of waters, shows formations naturally follow- ing such conditions, culminating in the lime deposits of Petoskey, the coral laid bare along this coast, and the picturesque water- wear of Mackinac Island, and St. Ignace on the opposite sides of the Straits. 26 PART L ROUTES TO NORTHERN MICHIGAN. Northern Michig-an ma}' be reached both by rail and steamboat from all directions. Three great lines of railway, Chicago & West Michigan, Grand Rapids & Indiana (Penns^'lvania Central S^'stem) and Michigan Central run through trains to its resorts, and steamboat lines on all the great lakes make regular and frequent trips. A brief description of the various routes is here ofiven, as being of interest and value to the traveler. Chicago, Grand Rapids and Detroit are chosen for the sake of convenience, as the points of departure. 1. From Chicago to Grand Rapids, a. Via Chicago & West Michigan Railway. 181 miles; time 5^4 hours. Chicago — Population 1,500,000, the second city of America and one of the great cities of the world, the center of immense commercial interests and the seat of several universities. Though only sixty years old, and in 1870 almost totally destroyed by fire, this city has had such phenomenal growth as to place it in the front rank and to make it" in some respects the foremost city in the world. For details the traveler is referred to special guide books to be had at all news stands and book stores. The Chicago & West Michigan Railway starts from the Illinois Central depot on the lake front at Park Row. 27 Wabash Ave. and State St. cable cars run to Park Row and within a short distance of the station. The depot is a mag-nificent structure, commanding- a fine view, and containing- one of the finest waiting- rooms in the world. It was built in 1893 at a cost of over a million dollars. The Illinois Central, Michig-an Central and Chicag-o & West Michig-an Railways center here. The train passes swiftly over the tracks of the Illinois Central to Kensing-ton (13 miles) close to the shore of Lake Michigan. Four miles out may be seen the "crib" that marks the mouth of the g-reat tunnel which affords the south side water supply of Chicag-o. On the rig-ht we are passing- throug-h one of the most beautiful residence portions of the city, stopping- for a moment at Hyde Park (5 miles), the location of the Chicag-o University, and ag-ain at Woodlawn Park, 63rd street, (7 miles) the terminus of the south side elevated railway. Between Hyde Park and Woodlawn the train passes close (on the left) to the grounds of the Columbian Ex- position, now a public park, part of beautiful Jackson Park. Many of the exposition building-s are still stand- ing-, being- used for museums and other purposes. Pullman (15 miles) — -The extensive works of the Pullman Palace Car Co. are located here in full view of the train on the left. The town of Pullman affords an interesting- study as a sociolog-ical experiment. A brief visit is well worth time and attention. Hammond (20 miles) — The extensive stock yards and meat packing works of the Hammond Packing Co. may be seen on the left. The train now speeds over a level and comparatively uninteresting country on the main line of the Michigan Central Railway, leaving Illinois and entering Indiana, whose southwest extremity it traverses for a little time, 28 reaching- Michigan City (58 miles), an important railway center with a little stream which affords a harbor for small boats. Here we catch a glimpse of Lake Michi- g-an between the great sand-dunes or drift hills of sand. These shifting sand hills in their structure and varia- tions form a most interesting study. New Buffalo (68 miles) — At this point we reach the Chicago & West Michigan road proper. The town itself is uninteresting, the stop being made onl}^ long enough to change engines. We now, proceeding northward, enter the famous "fruit belt" of Michigan. On both sides may be seen great helds of small fruits, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, etc., with miles of orchards, peaches, apples and pears, and vineyards, all in fine cultivation, until at last we reach the shipping center of it all, St. Joseph. St. Joseph (93 miles,) population 5000, situated at the mouth of the St. Joseph river. A long sand}^ beach stretches back from the water's edge for several hundred yards and is crowned by a bold bluff of sand along the edge of which is a driveway and park. Many beautiful views are to be enjo^^ed and "St. Joe" is fast becoming popular as a resort. Immense quantities of fruit are shipped annually from this port. The St. Joseph river is pretty and is navigable for a number of miles to Berrien Springs. A number of pleasant summer hotels and boarding houses are found upon its banks. Steamers make regular daily trips, stopping- at all the various "landings" en route. The train, resuming the journe3% crosses immedi- atel}' the St. Joseph river to Benton Harbor on the 29 opposite bank, then it continues throug-h the fruit belt and some of the linest farming- country in Michigan, to Holland. ^'H^"^ Holland (157 miles), population 8,000, one of the earliest Dutch settlements in Michig-an, was founded by Albertus C. Von Raalte, "Dominie," in 1847. It is the seat of a Dutch Reform Colleg-e and Theolog-ical Semi- nar}^ with 200 students, and is a sturdy, thriving- agricultural center. It is situated on the Black River which flows into Lake Michig-an six miles west. At the mouth of the river are situated two resorts, Macatawa Park (south side), Ottawa Beach (north side). These resorts are popular and are reached by steam ferry boat 30 from Holland or by a branch of railway from Waverly. Pleasant accommodations can be secured at reasonable rates. The journey continues throug-h an ag-ricultural country similar to that already described, passing- no points of special interest to Grand Rapids (179 miles). Grand Rapids — Population 100,000, one of the larg-est and most beautiful cities in Michig-an, as well as one of the oldest. It was incorporated as a villag-e in 1838 and as a city in 1850. It is situated in the beauti- ful valley of the Grand River, a stream of fair size and considerable importance both for navig-ation and water power, having- a fall at Grand Rapids of eig-hteen feet. The city rises in tine elevations above the river. The streets are remarkably fine and abundantly supplied with beautiful shade trees and lined with handsome residences. A g-reat deal of civic pride and enterprise has been shown, so that it stands in the front rank of modern municipal org-anizations. Grand Rapids is pre-eminent for its manufacture of furniture, there being- no less than 30 larg-e firms en- g-ag-ed in this enterprise. It makes some of the finest furniture in the world, and has, in this respect, a more than national reputation. The value of these manufac- tories in 1890 was over twenty million dollars. Grand Rapids also has extensive g-ypsum beds. A visit to the g-ypsum "mines" will be found very interest- ing- and can be easih' made. The mines or quarries of the Grand Rapids Plaster Co. are commended, as the gypsum is here mined by driving- subterranean g-alleries into the bluff. Some of the color formations of the g-3^psum are ver}^ beautiful. Gypsum is a mineral sub- stance (hydrated sulphate of lime) valuable for alabaster, plaster of Paris (so called because of the celebrated 31 quarries at Mont Martre near Paris) and in ag-riculture for fertilizer. The alabaster qualities of the Grand Rapids g-ypsum are limited, but for all other purposes it is very valuable. The beds cover a rang-e of from six to eight square miles in this vicinity and the supply is practically inexhaustible. Gypsum is found also in many other places in Michig-an, especially in conjunc- tion with salt deposits, but in smaller quantities. Geolog-ically it belong-s to the early Tertiary period. b. Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway. Grand Trunk Railway to Vicksburg-. 212 miles; time (y^i hours. According- to recent arrang-ements the Grand Rapids & Indiana trains now leave Chicag-o from the Polk street depot (State street car to Polk street, half block from depot). Leaving- the depot the train soon crosses the state line into Indiana and traverses a rich agricultural district, passing en route the considerable cities of LaPorte and South Bend. The latter city is world famous for its manufactories of vehicles and agricul- tural implements. Running northeast from South Bend the train enters Michigan near Cassopolis (122 miles) and reaches Vicksburg (151 miles) where it leaves the Grand Trunk Railway for the main line of the Grand Rapids & Indiana R. R. Thence it proceeds due north reaching Kalamazoo (163 miles). KAI.AMAZOO (163 miles), population 21,000, one of the most beautiful cities in Michigan. It abounds in fine residences and churches, it is the center of many important manufactures — especially buggies — is the seat of a Baptist College and Presbyterian Ladies Seminary, 32 both of hig-h reputation. Kalamazoo is also famous for its celery, the soil of that reg-ion being- especiall}' adapted to the raising- of this table delicacy. The g-rowth is luxuriant and is unsurpassed in flavor and richness. One of the noted Insane Asylums of the world is located here, a state institution with propert}^ valued at one million dollars, caring- for nearh' 12(X) inmates and emplo34ng- seven medical attendants with 229 employes. Here the Grand Rapids & Indiana Rail- way crosses the Michig-an Central R. R. Leaving- Kalamazoo the road lies throug-h a charming- ag-ricul- tural country to Grand Rapids (180 miles). For Grand Rapids see pag-e 31. IL From Detroit to Grand Rapids. Travelers entering- Michig-an at Detroit or adjacent points, may take a route direct to Mackinaw City via the Michig-an Central Railway, 291 miles, (see pag-e 44) or may g-o to Grand Rapids and thence north, 379 miles. The latter is long-er but has this advantag-e that it enters the resort reg-ion at its southern extremity, thus traversing- en route much of the territory that would have to be afterwards reached should the traveler g-o direct to Mackinaw. a. Via Grand Rapids & Western. 153 miles; time 4 hours. Leaving- Detroit from the line Union Depot on Fort street, the train moves rapidly westward across a typical ag-ricultural country, passing- no places of special in- terest until Lansing- is reached. Lansing (88 miles), population 16,000, a pleasant city, the capital of the state and seat of several state C 33 institutions, chief!}' the Agricultural College, the Boys' Industrial School and the Michig-an School for the Blind. The conspicuous dome of the capitol building- may be readih' seen from the car window. The rest of the journey is uneventful and in one and a half hours (153 miles) Grand Rapids is reached. See page 31. b- Via Detroit, Grand Haven & Milwaukee R. R. 158 miles ; time 6 hours. Leaving Detroit the journey is through an agricul- tural country all the wa3^ PoNTiAC (26 miles), population 7,500, location of the Eastern Michigan Asylum for the Insane, an institution having a national reputation. DuRAND (67 miles), the junction point for several lines of railroad, but otherwise unimportant. Ionia (124 miles), population 5,000, the location of the Michigan Asylum for Dangerous and Criminal In- sane. Gkand Rapids (158 miles). See page 31. ' Other Routes. Other though less usual northern routes should also be noted. The Michigan Central runs from Detroit to Grand Rapids via Jackson, 170 miles, 73^ hours. The night train on this route will often be found of special convenience to westbound travelers. The Flint & Pere Marquette Railway from Toledo via Detroit, Flint, Saginaw, Reed City (where it connects with the Cxrand Rapids & Indiana Railway), Baldwin (where it connects with the Chicago & West Michigan R. R. ) to Ludington. The Ann Arbor Railway from Toledo via Ann Arbor, Durand, Cadillac, (connecting here with the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway see page 37), Thomp- sonville (where it connects with the Chicago & West Michigan R. R.) to Frankfort (see page 51). 34 IIL From Grand Rapids to Traverse City, Petoskey L Mackinaw City, o. Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway. To Petoskey, 190 miles, time 6>4 hours. To Traverse Cit3% 145 miles, time S}{ hours. Leaving- Grand Rapids, the train almost immediate- ly crosses the wide and rapid Grand River, skirts the city, crosses (3 miles) the Detroit, Grand Haven & Mil- waukee R. R. and five minutes later passes on the rig-ht the extensive building-s of the fair grounds, passing- en route numerous larg-e furniture factories, the chief in- dustry of this busy city. The train now follows closely the banks of the Grand River, affording- numerous pretty vistas, to Belmont (10 miles), and crossing- the Rog-ue River at Rockford, journe3^s throug-h the well cultivated ag-ricultural reg-ion to Howard City (34 miles). At this point we enter the famous pine belt of Michig-an. This whole reg-ion is the scene of the earliest of those g-reat lumber enterprises which g-ave such impetus to the development of Michig-an — indeed the whole northwest. The traveler will note with in- terest the fields of stumps, even 3'et incredibly thick, althoug-h many of them have been removed, which bear witness to the mig-hty forests of which they are the desolate remains. Great branching- roots are piled up in stump fences about occasional clearing-s which, with the crude homesteader's "shanty" in the midst affords a unique picture of pioneer life — a picture which will not soon be forg-otten by those who thus witness it for the first time. Numerous small towns with unpainted houses and inevitable little saw mill, are passed, and if the train stops interesting- "studies'' may be enjoyed of the various t3^pes of settlers that invariably g-ather at the depots to "see the train come in." At Morley (41 miles) a small branch of the Muske- g-on is crossed. At Big- Rapids (56 miles) a considerable town and the junction of the Detroit, Grand Rapids & Western Railway, the train crosses the Muskeg-on proper at about the center of its course. This river is one of the most important streams of Michig-an. Tak- ing- its rise in Hig-g-ins Lake, 50 miles northeast of Big- Rapids, it flows southwest to Muskeg-on and empties there into Lake Michig-an. Thus as the bird flies it covers a course of over a hundred miles, but with its numerous bends and turns it has an actual course of fully twice that distance, and throug-h the heart of a rich lumber district. It has, therefore, had an invalu- able commercial importance, and the passing traveler hardly realizes the immense money value of the log's which have been floated on its waters to the g-reat saw mills of Muskeg-on (see last parag-raphs, pag-e 37). The train follows the river for several miles, pass- ing- at Paris (62 miles) on the left the pretty State Fish Hatchery where brook trout are "raised" for stocking- the streams. P^urther on Reed City (69 miles) is reached, the junction with the Flint & Pere Marquette Railway (see page 34). The train now passes through a rough, uncultivated region of no special interest to the traveler, except as a type of pioneer country just emerging from its wilderness state into a condition of semi-cultivation. A number of very small hamlets are passed. The train reaches and skirts the shores of Clam Lake and stops at the largest and most important city thus far, Cadillac, (98 miles). 36 Cadillac, a busy city of 8000 inhabitants, situated o-n the eastern shore of Little Clam Lake, a small but deep lake, two and a half miles lon^, connected by a short channel with the larg-er Clam Lake lying- directh^ w^est. Cadillac is situated in the center of one of the richest tracts of pine ever known in the world, and has been the basis of lumber operations of g-reat mag-nitude for more than twent}- years. Its larg-e saw mills are still bus}^ althoug-h by far the g-reater part of the pine has been cut and much of the outlaying- reg-ion is now a desolate waste. Accord- ing^ to conservative estimates not more than 1,500,000 feet remains to be converted into lumber, a "cut" of less than live years. Immense tracts of virg-in hardwood forests are, however, adjacent, and arrang-ements are being- rapidh^ made to commence the manufacture of hardwood lumber. A line boulevard has recenth^ been constructed around the lake (8V2 miles) and much civic enterprise is manifest. The following- statistics, furnished by courtesy of W. W. Mitchell, Esq., of Cadillac, will g-ive some idea of the mag-nitude of lumber operations in this western section of Michig-an. During- the last twenty-live years there has been manufactured in Muskeg-on, 10,040,670,506 feet; in Manistee, 5,498,228,666 feet; in Cadillac, 1,190,231,000 feet. The money value of this enormous amount may be easily computed by multiplying- the above lig-ures by four, "assuming that the averag-e value of the timber standing- during this period would rang-e about $4.00 per thousand feet in the tree." Of course the manufactured product as it leaves the mill is worth from two to five times that amount. This reg-ion was evidently a favorite rendezvous for 37 the Indians of prehistoric times. Along- the shores of the lake are found numerous mounds, many of which have been excavated and much material of archeological value discovered. Those interested in this subject may correspond with Mr. Charles Manktellow of Cadillac, whose enthusiastic and painstaking- researches along this line have resulted in "finds" of real value and im- portance. Leaving Cadillac the train winding- along- hig-h ridg-es and rounding sharp curves, affords a g-ood view of the great pine barrens, which it almost immedi- ately enters. Four miles north is the small junction, Missaukee, of a branch running- to Lake City, a distance of 15 miles, and throug-h an unbroken stretch of "barrens" as far as the eye can see on either side. For miles and miles this desolate wilderness of stumps stretches on either side with gaunt bare pine "stubs" sprinkled among- them and decaying- log-s scattered in wild confusion everywhere. The stubby underg-rowth of oak and poplar adds to, rather than relieves, the desolateness. Passing- throug-h a country broken into billowy hills and ridg-es with sharp ravines, at six and a half miles from Cadillac the highest point of railroad land in Michigan is reached, known as Man ton Hill, 832^ feet above Lake Michigan. Here the road descends rapidly 477 feet in eleven miles to Manton and soon crosses the Manistee River. This is another of the notable streams of Michigan, over a hundred miles long and draining, with its tributaries, a large area. Down its currents also have been floated billions of feet of logs to be sawed into lumber at Manistee, which is situated at its mouth on the shores of Lake Michigan. A little later Walton Junction (119 miles) is reached. 38 From Walton Junction a branch road runs 26 miles to Traverse Cit}^ with usually, in the summer time, throug-h cars from Grand Rapids. The journey is throug-h a country very similar to that already described. For Traverse City see pag-e 57. Continuing- along- the main line, the train, emerg-- ing- from the forest, skirts the pretty shores of Fife Lake, and passing- Fife Lake station (124 miles) crosses the south branch of the Boardman River at South Boardman. This river is famous as a trout stream. The district now traversed consists of an extensive plain of jack pine, a small scrubby pine of rather pic- turesque appearance, but not commercially useful. Botanists will find this reg-ion of unique interest and a day may be very pleasantly spent in rambling- among- 39 these dwarf trees at Kalkaska (138 miles), situated in the center of this reg-ion, a pleasant stopping- place with a g-ood hotel. The road now rises steadily and sweeps through noble forests of elm, beech and maple which densel}^ cover this gfreat plateau. At Antrim (150 miles) an im- mense smelting- works or "blast furnace" is passed, where iron ore from upper Michig-an is converted into pig- iron for commercial uses. The furnace is located here on account of the quantity of fire wood obtainable for burning-, g-reat fields of which, corded up, may be seen close by. A little further on is Mancelona (151 miles), one of the busiest towns between Cadillac and Petoskey. The journey continues throug-h almost unbroken forest, passing- Alba with its charcoal kilns, and eig-ht miles further on, at Elmira (166 miles), reaching- the crest of another g-reat ridg-e 663 feet above the level of Lake Michig-an. Here beg-ins a very rapid descent, the road g-rade having- a fall of 572 feet in ten miles. In this distance twenty-one curves, ag-g-reg-ating- 824° of curvature and 4H miles, are made and it is interesting- to watch the descent from the rear end of the train. Descending- the Elmira hill, the train enters the beautiful Boyne River valley. The hills slope abruptly down on either side covered with a noble forest, said to be the finest tract of hardwood in Michig-an, whose g-reatest beauty is in the fall when the autumn colors are on. Boyne Falls is soon reached, where a little lumber railroad runs to Boyne City. For Boyne City see Part III, Sec. 2 Boyne Falls aifords fine trout fish- ing. The Boyne River may also be reached from Boyne City. The train now crosses a larg-e and dense swamp of 40 tamarack and cedar, passing- (7 miles) Bear Lake Junc- tion, (see Part III, Sec 6). Saw mills are noted here and there. One of these mills finds sufficient cedar ad- jacent to produce twenty million shing-les a year for twenty years. The little town of Clarion is passed, the grade rises steadily and soon Petoskey (191 miles) is reached. For the journey from Petoskey to Mackinaw see Part III, Sec. 6. b- Via Chicago & West IVIichigan Railway to Traverse City. 145 miles, 4 hours. Leaving- the Union Depot at Grand Rapids, the train skirts the city northward to the Detroit, Grand Haven & Milwaukee Junction (3 miles), with g-ood views of the city en route. At 5 miles Mill Creek is passed, with the extensive fair g-rounds of the Michig-an State Fair Association, and a little further on the rig-ht side the State Fish Hatchery, where black bass are raised for stocking- the various lakes. The route now lies throug-h one of the famous fruit belts of Michig-an, passing- several prosperous towns, among- these Sparta (15 miles) and Casnovia (22 miles). The latter town may be called the center of this fruit belt, larg-e shipments of fruit— especially peaches— be- ing- made from this place each season. The next stop of importance is Newayg-o (36 miles). Just before reaching- Newayg-o we cross the Muskeg-on River, one of the most important streams in Michig-an. (See pag-e 36). Newayg-o is a busy little town, a center of ag-ricultural and lumbering- pursuits. Eleven miles further on is White Cloud (47 miles) on the White River, a junction point with a well known 41 eating- house. Trains usually stop twenty minutes for refreshment. Famous brook trout is served here in season. Leaving- White Cloud, the route lies for the most part throug-h a wild and unsettled country. Here and there will be noted the roug-h "clearing-s'' of the pioneer farmer. Great patches of forest and wide stretches of pine barrens are interspersed with little lakes and brawl- ing streams whose waters afford splendid sport for the fisherman and the hunter. At Roby's Tank, two and a half miles south of Baldwin and 73 miles from Grand Rapids, the Mar- quette River is crossed. This is a well known trout stream where the beautiful "rainbow trout'' are found. The Club House situated here is open to the public and furnishes pleasant accommodations. Baldwin (75 miles) is the junction point with the Flint & Pere Marquette R. R. From this point many fine trout streams ma}^ be be reached. Eight miles north of Baldwin the train reaches the crest of Conley hill. From this point a superb view is secured. Following for several moments the crest of the hill or bluff, we look eastward over the tops of great trees away across the country for fifteen miles or more. The dense forests with their varied foliage, the fine prospect with its wide sweep of horizon afford a beauti- ful view. No better illustration can be had of the plateau-like conformation of the topography of Michigan. See Introduction, Sec. HI and IV, also "Profile, "page 25. Two miles further on we reach Canfield, crossing a short railroad that extends to Luther, and three miles north of Canfield the train crosses the Little Manistee River. This is another famous trout stream, 13 miles from Baldwin, 88 miles from Grand Rapids. Good 42 accommodations may be had here and fine fishing-. Trains stop at all these streams and the accommodations preserve a remarkably hig-h av^erag-e. Eig-ht miles from this point the top of Norway Hill is reached. Descending- this, the train passes for a short distance throug-h a dense strip of Norway pine, g-iving- the traveler beautiful g-limpses of the forest vistas formed by this noble and g-raceful tree. At the foot of Norway Hill we pass Wellston, the site of an old lumber camp, and a little further on Boyne River is crossed, with g-ood fishing- and g-ood accommodations. Six miles further on we reach the hig-h and pic- turesque banks of the Manistee River, another of the famous lumber streams of Michig-an (see pag-e 38). This river is crossed by an immense steel bridge. It is 1170 feet long-, 90 feet hig-h, and was built at a cost of S125,000.00. The next stop is at Manistee Crossing (110 miles) where the Manistee and Northeastern R. R. crosses the Chicago & West Michigan Railway. Entering a dense forest, the train crosses (5 miles) Bear River. Here, in the very heart of the woods, is a pleasant little hotel on the banks of the stream where again good fishing ma}" be enjoyed. Be^'ond this is Henr3^ the junction point with the "Betsy River and Arcadia R. R.," a logging railroad that reaches far into the forest. Then we pass the large charcoal kilns known as Desmonds, and one mile further on reach Thompsonville, a t3"pical northern lumber village. Two and a half miles north of Thomp- sonville we cross the Betsy River. Good fishing. Then Wallin is passed, with its charcoal kilns, Clar}" with its stave mills, and Interlochen, all small lumber towns. We are now fourteen miles from Traverse City. 43 Passing- Bietner's we cross the Boardman River at Sabin, where is fine water power. The Traverse City Electric Light plant is located here. Good fishing-. Later (141 miles) we reach Traverse Cit}^ and find ourselves in the heart of the beautiful resort reg-ion of Michig-an. For Traverse City see pag-e 57 and for continuation of this route to Petoskey and Ba}^ View see Part XL Sec. 4. IV — From Detroit to Bay City, Cheboygan and Mackinaw City. Via Michigan Central. 2^)0 miles; time, 11 hours. Travelers from Detroit will find it sometimes con- venient to take the Michig-an Central route to Mackinaw. The journey is throug-h a country of little interest in scenic beauty; the nig-ht train, therefore, is most desir- able. No cities of importance are passed, except Sag-i- naw and Bay City, both larg-e lumbering- and mercantile centers. Leaving- Bay Cit}^ (108 miles) the train enters what was once one of the famous Michig-an lumber belts, althoug-h now by far the larg-er part has been cut. Grayling- (200 miles) was famous as a fishing- reg-ion, but has lost its popularity in recent years. At Indian River (256 miles) the road enters the re- sort reg-ion proper, skirting- the beautiful shores of Mullet Lake for several miles, with stations at Topin- bee (262 miles). Mullet Lake (268 miles) and Chebog-an (274 miles). For particulars of these beautiful resorts see Part III, Sec. 6. Thence the road runs through dense forests of spruce, tamarack, hemlock and poplar to Mackinaw City (290 miles). For Mackinaw City see Part IV. ^ BY STEAMER. Northern Michig-an ma^^ also be reached by steamer direct from Chicag-o or Detroit. To many the novelt}' and charm of a trip on the Great Lakes is the crowning- ^ / pleasure of a summer tour. De- spite that bele noire of water travel, seasickness, there is a charm, restfulness and invig-ora- tion about such a voyag-e which appeals strongly to most tour- ists. Facilities of steamboat transportation are now so com- plete and perfect as to afford the hig-hest deg-ree of comfort, safety and pleasure. To those who en- joy the water and can spare the time (from twice to three times that required by rail) a voyag-e on the Great Lakes is strong-ly re : mmended. Warm wraps and overcoat should never be neg-lected. In the heig-ht of the season staterooms must be eng-ag-ed several da3^s, if not weeks, ahead. I — From Chicago to Mackinac, Two lines of steamers make regular trips between Chicago and Mackinac Island. The differences between them are so marked that they may be clearly stated without danger of invidious comparison. The Lake Michigan and Lake Superior Transportation Co. has in service the magnificent and palatial steamer Manitou. It is large, swift, and elegant in its appointments. It stops only at Charlevoix, Harbor Springs (passengers for Petoskey, 5 miles, are transferred here) and Mackinac 46 Island, and makes the trip in a little over twenty- four hours. The fare is S5.00, with meals, (served a la carte and with g-reat elegance) and stateroom extra. The Northern Michig-an Line has in service two steamboats, the Petoskev and the Charlevoix. These boats have long- been favorites. They have neither the speed nor eleg-ance of the Manitou, but are very com- fortable and less expensive. The fare is S7.00, meals and berth included. The service is plain and unpreten- tious. These boats make several stops en route, viz : Luding-ton, Manistee, Frankfort, Traverse City, Charle- voix, Petoskey, Harbor Spring-s and Mackinac Island. While this consumes much more time — about forty hours — it affords an opportunity to see much that is beautiful and interesting- of Michig-an coast scenery. a- Via Lake Michigan and Lake Superior Transportation Company. Passeng-ers via the steamship Manitou steer their course directly up the lake and soon lose sig-ht of land, which is not g-ained ag-ain until the Manitou Islands are sig-hted off the entrance to Grand Traverse Bay (see pag-e 51). Further on north (30 miles) the Beavers are occasionally sig-hted. (See Part III, Sec. 2.) The course is now eastward to Charlevoix, where the first stop is made. The entrance to Charlevoix harbor, Round Lake, is both interesting- and picturesque and should not be missed, even thoug-h it requires early rising- to see it. Nothing can exceed the almost fairy- like beaut}^ of this exquisite harbor, and the first im- pressions, as the stately boat passing through the narrow river sweeps about in beautiful Round Lake, will never be forgotten. For further description of Charlevoix, see Part III. 47 The passag-e to the open sea is then retraced and entering- Little Traverse Bay the course is taken almost due east to Harbor Springs. Land is in sight on both sides, the shore rising in a series of beautiful, sweeping terraces, covered with dense forests, and reaching back to the blue distant hills. Little Traverse Bay is about ten miles long and live miles wide. It narrows at the end, to three miles, in a stately sweeping shore which rises in beautiful terraces from the bluff 100 feet high, like a great amphitheatre, and presents a scene of re- markable beauty. The deep blue, green and purple coloring of the water is fringed by snow-white lines of surf. Beyond gleams a beautiful white beach of sand or pebbles above which rise in many places sheer lime- stone bluffs bold and dark; then the land sweeps back in wide plateaus where dense forests contrast sharply with well-cultivated farms, the whole crowned by an impos- ing panorama of Petoskey and Bay View. Almost immediately the steamer enters the beautiful harbor. A long, narrow peninsula juts out into the lake inclos- ing a little bay, beyond which nestles Harbor Springs. This peninsula of singular beauty, is studded with fine summer homes with a picturesque little red brick lighthouse on the tip of the point. The wa ter is very deep close to the shore, so that the ..-■•■ larg es t steamer s sail within easy hailing distance of the- lighthouse. 48 The harbor is practicall}^ land-locked and is exquisitel}' beautiful. Beyond the stretch of summer cottages lies the villag-e, behind which rises an imposing- wooded bluif full}^ 75 feet high. The whole effect is indescrib- ably beautiful and the view from the steamer is onh^ surpassed by the magnificent view secured from the bluff itself. (See Part III, Sec. 4.) Even if no longer sta}' is made, passengers shuld certainly not fail to climb the bluff. Conveyances at the dock may be secured for a very reasonable sum, and half an hour will be ample time for the round trip. The view thus enjoyed will never be forgotten. For details of Little Traverse Ba}^ with map, see Part III. Leaving Harbor Springs the steamer retraces its course out of Little Traverse Bay, and bearing to the north, rounds "Nine Mile Point;" thence northward to the entrance of the Straits of Mackinac. On the risfht the shore line stands out in bold relief with high bluffs and gleam- ing beach of golden sand. The early and romantic settlement known as Cross Village may sometimes be dis- covered in the distance (about 25 miles by water from Harbor Springs, see Part III, Sec. 5) and beyond (15 miles) the long, low peninsula which guards the] entrance to the Straits known as Waugoschance Point, with its reefs and tiny archipelago. To the left (but sometimes the steamers 49 clear this point far to the rig-ht) the little Isle Aux Galets (Flat-rock Island) appears with its tall lig-hthouse, which the natives pronounce "Skilly-g"a-lee;" and a few miles farther north the larg-e Waug-oschance Island. Rounding- this we are fairly in the far-famed Straits of Mackinac. Now the course is almost due east to Mackinac Island. Fifteen miles bring-s the steamer off McGulpin's Point where the Straits narrow down to about five miles in width. To the north lies Point St. Ig-nace, the southern extremity of the upper peninsula; to the south lies Mackinaw City on the northern extremity of the lower peninsula, while immediatel}- ahead (east) lies Mackinac Island with Round Island and Bois Blanc Island (pronounced "Bob-low") immediately below (see map Part IV). All this forms a panorama of mag^nifi- cent proportions and beauty. The surf-crested shore, the blue water sparkling- in the sun, the dark h^ing- forests, the g-reat white cliffs, the g-leaming- villag-e and quaint old fortress, together with the constant proces- sion of ships entering- or leaving- the Straits in either direction, combine to produce a view that is indescrib- ably picturesque. The little white village of Mackinac nestling- under its frowning- crag-s adds an almost foreig-n touch to the beauty of the scene. Here we leave our boat to enter upon a more intimate inspection of the Island and its environs, a detail of which will be found in Part IV. b. Via Northern Michigan Line. If the steamers of the Northern Michig-an line are taken, the course is held north by east from Chicag-o to Luding-ton, a prosperous and busy city of over 8000 population. Thence the shore is closely skirted (25 50 miles) to Manistee, where the second stop is made. Manistee is situated at the mouth of the Manistee River (see pag-e 38) and is one of the larg-est lumber centers of Michigan. The steamer enters the river and sails slowly up the narrow channel, about a quarter of a mile, to the dock. On leaving it goes on up the river into Manistee Lake, where a busy scene is presented. The lake is lined with saw mills, its docks are crowded with lumber in massive piles, and its waters covered with logs held in place by "booms," i. e. great strings of logs chained or roped together. The drivers show mar- velous skill in walking these logs and in maneuvering them about and sorting them. Here the steamer finds room to turn about. It swings around and steams slowly down the river and out again to sea. Once more the course is northward, usually in sight of shore, whose varying scenery is full of novelty and pleasure to the traveler. The next stop is Frankfort. Here the steamer enters a short, narrow river and then a charming little lake. The quiet beauty of this grace- ful harbor impresses one at once and it is left always with a little sigh of regret. Frankfort is the terminus of the Ann Arbor Railway and the point of departure of its line of steamers to Menominee, Manitowoc and other points across the lake. Leaving Frankfort, the steamer soon veers a little to the east, passing, in about an hour, the quite impos- ing Sleeping Bear Point. This great promontory is made of gleaming white sand and rises to a height of nearly 500 feet; it is crowned with patches of scrubby pine and spruce. Almost directly north, about 12 miles, lie the Manitou Islands, the larger one rising abruptly from the water in clifes 200 feet high. The course now lies northeast up the long peninsula which lies between 51 the lake and Traverse Ba3% known as Leelanaw Penin- sula, about 35 miles, when rounding- Lig^hthouse Point we turn sharply down this imposing- bay to Traverse City (30 miles). Passing- on the west Northport and Omena we soon enter the narrow west arm, and enjoy- ing- the beautiful shores with their thickly-wooded hills and prett}^ villas, we reach the dock at Traverse City. For details of Grand Traverse Bay with maps, see Part II. Leaving- Traverse City, the steamer returns up the bay, and rounding- the main land seventeen miles north- east of Lig-hthouse Point, enters Charlevoix (about 45 miles from Traverse City.) For a description of the reminder of the trip see pag-e 47. For Charlevoix and environs, see Part III. II — From Detroit to Mackinac, « Via Northern Steamship Company. ^ Detroit & Cleveland Steam Navigation Co. Travelers from Detroit ma}^ reach Mackinac Island by steamer on lines indicated above. (The twin steamers of the Northern Michigan line, the Northwest and Northland, are mag-nificent boats. Their exceptional size, speed and beauty demands this special notice. They are exclusively for passeng-er service, and plying- between Buffalo and Duluth, stop at Cleveland, Detroit, Mackinac Island and Sault Ste. Marie en route. Time from Buffalo to Duluth, 3 days; from Detroit to Macki- nac Island, 20 hours.) The voyag-e is somewhat long-er, and aside from the trip between Detroit and Port Huron, is practically out of sig-ht of land. Detroit River always presents an animated scene, an im- mense volume of traffic being- carried throug-h its waters — over thirt^'-six million tons in a sing-le season. 52 At its mouth it is four miles wide, but narrows to about a mile between Detroit and Windsor. Passing- Belle Isle, a beautiful park of 7()0 acres, the boat enters Lake St. Clair, a wide and shallow lake about twenty-live miles in diameter. The marshes about this lake are famous hunting- and lishing- g-rounds. The lake is con- nected with Lake Huron by the St. Clair River, forty miles long-, and presents many charming- vistas. At its entrance lies Port Huron, connected with Sarnia by the famous tunnel of the Grand Trunk Railway. This tunnel is 1^6 miles in leng-th and is considered one of the finest executions of eng-ineering- skill. It is a g-reat cast-iron tube, or series of tubes, twenty feet in diame- ter, and cost S2,700,UO(). Leaving- the St. Clair River the steamer traverses the whole leng-th of Lake Huron (270 miles) without a stop, thoug-h often in sig-ht of the Michig-an shore. At last Bois Blanc Island (pronounced "Bob-low") is reached the narrow channel between it and the main- land bending- abruptly into the Straits of Mackinac. For description of Straits see pag-e -^0. For Mackinac Island with map see Part IV. ■ •'/-. ;4>>1%' .J ».•«■•«««*■ -^ A '^^f** 54 PART IL GRAND TRAVERSE BAY, 1, Traverse City and Immeciiate Environs, Traverse City — One of the principal cities of northern Michig-an, finely located on the south west end of Grand Traverse Bay _ and in a country rich in agricultural and lumber resources. H I s T o R Y — Traverse City was incorporated as a city in 1895 and as a villag-e in 1881. Previous to that time it was a well known rendezvous in early Indian and pioneer days. Situated deep in the lower end of a g-reat bay, it was out of the line of g-eneral travel from Canada to the Mississippi, and therefore failed to play anj^ impor- tant part in the stirring- history of colonial times. But the quiet retirement and natural beauty of its situation made it a most attractive place for Indian 57 camping grounds, while its great resources, beautiful harbor and line water power privileges combined to make it a place of large commercial importance — the natural site for a prosperous citj. We know that in the early days a small Indian vil- lage occupied this site. At that time the Boardman River flowed, clear as crystal, with a fine curve to the lake, the great pines swept in a noble forest to the very shore and all nature contributed to make this place asingularh^ charm- ing spot. In 1847 Capt. Boardman, of Illi- nois, came here and purchased a large tract of land from the govern- ment, and under great difficulties, with energy and perseverance suc- ceeded in building up a little set- tlement with sawmill, postoftice and other essentials of early pioneer life. In 1891 he sold out all his interest to the firm of Hannah, Lay & Co., then young men, who at once began the making of a cit}' and to whose sagacity and indomitable energy much of the present prosperity of Traverse Cit}' is due. Thirty years after this purchase Traverse City, growing as a center for lumber, agriculture and manu- facturing, was incorporated as a village, and in 1895 as a city, having a present population (in 1898) of more than 6000. Traverse Cit}^ has developed manufacturing indus- tries of large proportions. Some statistics may be of interest. The Oval Wood Dish Co. employs 350 persons and puts out a half million dishes per da}', besides manu- facturing clothes pins, washboards and other articles of woodenware. The Basket Factory made three and a 58 half million grape baskets and five million peach bas- kets in the eig-ht months of last year, besides many thousands of other kinds of baskets. In addition to these the Chair Stock Factory and the Potato Imple- ment Factory do a larg-e business, not to speak of numerous other industries of similar nature. Traverse Cit}^ is also a center for shipping- fruit which this reg-ion produces in g-reat abundance. Apples, plums and small fruits, and an almost incredible quantity of potatoes are shipped from this port to all parts of the country. Itinerary — Situated on the edg-e of the bay, the business interests of Traverse City are stretched along- one long- street running- parallel with the water. The city is also broken by the curves of the Boardman river. Back of the main street lies the residence portions, on both sides of the river, while behind these one enters immediately the beautiful pineries whose open forests have a never-failing charm. Still farther back are hig-h bluffs (2 miles), a very pleasant walk, (in which the Asylum may be included) affording- a beautiful view of the city, the river, Boardman Lake — a pretty inland lake offering- many attractive recreations — with the bay, its islands, peninsulas and charming- coast line. The Asylum is a point of special interest. It is open to visitors and should certainly be inspected. The Northern Michig-an Asylum was org-anized in 1881 and opened in 1885 under the support and control of the g-overnment of Michig-an. Its imposing- building's stand in a beautiful park of spacious dimensions imme- diately below the bluffs surrounding- the cit}' on the southwest. The property consists of fifteen building-s with 588 acres; it has a present value of over 8775,000. It has, at present, 553 male inmates and 4(^0 female — a 59 smaller number than in previous years. The disburse- ments for the year ending- June 30th, 1896, which in- clude special extra appropriations, were $206,646. The receipts for the same year were $195,811. There are live medical attendants beside the Superintendent, and 172 employes. The roads about Traverse City are exceptionally g-ood. Beautiful walks, drives and bicycle rides may be enjoyed in every direction. Some of the most im- portant of these are described in detail in the pag-es im- mediately following-. Those interested will find a visit to the various manufactories full of profit and pleasure. The plan of the city is so simple as to require no special directions or explanations. 2, From Traverse City to Northport, THE LEELANAW PENINSULA. A g-lance at the map will reveal the simple yet in- teresting- topog-raphy of this section. Grand Traverse Bay forms a deep indentation in the sweepings shore line of the g-reat lake. Its western coast is a long-, pointed peninsula, known as Leelanaw County. The bay itself is divided, in its southern extremity, by another small, narrow peninsula, which, piercing- its center, extends northward for about eig-hteen miles, making- two lower bays known as West Arm and East x\rm. Beyond, on the east, sweeps the shore of the mainland northward to Elk Rapids and Charlevoix. Three natural divisions are thus made consisting- of two peninsulas, Leelanaw and Old Mission, and the coast of the mainland. The most northern settlement of Leelanaw penin- sula is Northport. It may be reached by steamboat 60 daily from Traverse City, forming-, in tine weather, a delig-htful day's excursion of about sixt}' miles includ- ing- the return trip. Sailing* up the ba}- the steamer pauses at Ne-ah-ta-wan-ta (see pag-e 64), Omena (see pag-e 62) and Northport. It may also be reached by carriag"e road, a delig-htful journey of forty miles. The tourist will vary the trip to suit his own tastes, but our description, for the sake of completeness, covers the whole journey by road, either for drivings, bicycle or pedestrian. Leaving Traverse City the road lies along- the shore for almost fifteen miles. Traverse Beach (7 miles from Traverse City) is first reached— a pretty resort with charming- hotel. Still following the shore, we reach, about four miles further on, a place where a road turns to the left climbing- a rather steep hill. This will lead us to the old road, but recently a new and more desir- able road has been built straig-ht on along- the shore for nearly seven miles further, to where the shore runs out in a beautiful little bay to Lee's Point. At Lee's Point one may secure a very fine view, but unless it is desired to lengthen the journey by several miles, it would be well to omit this, and continuing due north leave the shore for a time and cross the head- land straight to Sutton's Bay, about four miles. On reaching the shore we round the bay, and in less than two miles reach Sutton's Bay postoffice, a small hamlet, making in all about 24 miles from Traverse City. At this point a beautiful road runs nearly due west to (5 miles) Carp Lake, to Provemont and Fountain Point (see page 63.) Continuing the journey to Northport, the road fol- lows closelv the shore, affording most beautiful views all the way, about nine miles to Omena— a picturesque 61 and interesting- Indian village. The villag-e lies in a pretty cove close to the shore. Above rises a hig-h bluff upon which is situated the larg-e Leelanaw hotel with beautiful g-rounds and affording- mag-nihcent views. The history of Omena is closely connected with that of Old Mission, across the west arm of the bay. In connection with the missionary and educa- tional work org-anized at Old Mission (for which see pag-e 65), a station was established here in 1852. This phi- anthropy was conduct- ed by the Presbyterian Church as one of its mission enterprises for many years. The old church still remains in the center of the quaint little villag-e and the Indians meet reg-ularly here for worship under the pastoral care of the Rev. J. Payson Mills. From Omena to North- port is seven miles by a most beautiful and picturesque road, passing- en route the old Indian town of Ah-g-o-sa, named after an Indian chief of early repute. Northport, a little villag-e of 600 inhabitants, is the outpost of Leelanaw peninsula. Its history marks the beg-inning- of the white settlement of Leelanaw Count3^ In 1849 the Rev. Geo. N. Smith removed with a tribe of ^^%m 62 Indians from Holland, Mich., to this countr3\ He was in company with James McLaug-hlin, a g-overnment em- plo^'e — -as g-overnment farmer for a band of Waukazoo Indians from Allegan count}'. They set sail from Holland, May 27th, 1849, and after a tempestuous voyage, reached Cat Head Bay, just north of Northport on the main lake coast, June 11th. A little later North- port was chosen as the permanent location, and with forty or tifty Indian families who also mig-rated here, quite a settlement was immediateh' formed. In 1854 Messrs. Fox & Rose began extensive operations here, building- the lirst dock for large steamers in Grand Traverse Ba}'. Mr. H. O. Rose of this firm is now a resident of Petoskey. Be^'ond Northport the peninsula stretches north- ward for more than seven miles, to Lighthouse Point. Bicyclers and pedestrians of an exploring turn of mind, will find the trip interesting. As the peninsula now narrows down to a slender strip of land, no special directions will be needed. From Northport the return journey may be made, if desired, by a different route, coming b)^ way of Carp Lake. The road runs in angular route across the pen- insula to the head of Carp Lake, and thence rounding the lake, follows a narrow^ strip of land between Carp Lake and Lake Michigan to Leland, an interesting though rather deserted village. Here a little steamer may be taken, traversing Carp Lake and stopping at Fountain Point, Provemont, a resort with a fine artesian well over thirty years old, and other places of interest and beaut}' to Fuch's hotel, the southern extremit}' of the lake. Here the Manistee & Northeastern R. R. makes connection for Traverse City. Or the journey 63 may be completed by carriag-e road (somewhat hill}-) to Traverse City — a distance of 12 or 13 miles. Carp Lake offers fine sport for the fisherman, and it ma}' be said in g-eneral that this whole reg-ion is charming- and beautiful. No more delig-htful trip could be planned, full of novel sights and experiences, than the one just outlined. It can be easily made by wheel or carriage, in three days, by using steamboat and rail- road connections, in shorter time, while many days can be most happih' sp^nt in wandering about this charm- ing peninsula. 3, From Traverse City to Old Mission, OLD MISSION PENINSULA. While there is no regular boat route from Traverse City to Old Mission, some of the steamers occasionally touch there — inquire at hotel. The round trip by car- riage road is very beautiful and may be easily made in a day b}' carriage or bicycle. Old Mission peninsula is about eighteen miles long and from one to five miles in width. It is a veritable garden, being all under culti- vation. Some of the finest fruit orchards in Michigan are on this peninsula. The road lies westward from Traverse Cit}' a short distance, and then north along the shore to Bower's Harbor in the bight of a little bay about twelve miles from Traverse City. Here a road follows the shore for two miles to Traverse Point and Ne-ah-ta-wan-ta, both beautifull}^ located summer resorts of considerable pro- portions. Directly south of Traverse Point lies the beautiful Marion Island, and close by a little island 64 known as Hermit Island inhabited solely by an eccen- tric old fisherman and hunter. The main road to Old Mission, however, turns in- land about a mile before reaching- Bower's Harbor, and runs due north for about six miles throug-h beautiful orchards ; hence turns westward at right angles for about a mile to Old Mission, fineh^ situated on a little bay opening into the east arm. Old Mission is one of the historic landmarks of this region. In May, 1839, two Presbyterian missionaries, Revs. John Flemming and Peter Doug-hert}^ came to this spot by canoe from Mackinac Island to establish a mission among* the In- dians settled here. They broug-ht supplies with them, including- doors and windows for a house. A coun- cil of the Indians was called and it was first thoug-ht best to locate at Elk Rapids, just across the bay. A beginning- was made here. Mr. Flem- ming- returned to Mackinac in a few weeks on account of the sudden death of his wife. Mr. Doug-herty was left alone, the only white man in the region. A month later he returned to Old Mission for consultation with Henry R. Schoolcraft, Indian Agent at Mackinac. Old Mission was then chosen as the location of the enter- prise. The station at Elk Rapids was abandoned and moving to Old Mission, Mr. Dougherty lived there for many years conducting missionary, industrial and educa- tional work among the Indians of great value and im- portance. In 1852 (about 13 years later) the mission work was moved to Omena (see page 62). 65 The journey may now be resumed by returning- clown the shore of east bay due south to Fowlers (6 miles), beautiful views all the way, and then angling- across the narrow neck of the peninsula to Traverse City, twelve miles further. 4, Traverse City to Charlevoix and Petoskey, I. By Rail, C. & W. M. R. R. Charlevoix, I-3 hours, 62 miles. Petoskey, 2^6 hours, 75 miles. Leaving Traverse City the train crosses Boardman River and skirts the East Arm Bay to Acme. Hence deflecting to the west, the first stop is made at Williams- burg. This is the junction point for a branch of the road which runs to Elk Rapids (see page 72), trains making close connections. Beyond Williamsburg the next stop is Barker Creek, where on the left, across a cedar swamp, Round Lake may be seen. This is one of that beautiful chain of lakes which extends almost the w^hole of the distance to Charlevoix, along whose pictur- esque shores the railroad runs to Ellsworth. The next stop is made at Van Buren. Torch River lies two miles west and carriages from Welch's Inn meet passengers here. Immediately crossing Rapid River, the fine expanse of Torch Lake soon bursts into view, and we follow closely the shore for several miles to the pretty village of Alden. Leaving Alden, the road follows the lake shore for about three miles, then turning abruptly eastward, skirts Clam Lake, a little connecting lake — or more properly river. We get onh' occasional glimpses of this lake, when turning north- ward, again, the train, crossing numerous babbling trout 66 streams, rapidly skirts the western edg-e of Grass Lake and plung-es into the forest for a mile or so, stopping- at Bellaire, a pretty little lumber town situated on the narrows between Grass and Intermediate Lakes. At Bellaire the train crosses the narrows or riv^er and the view is on the rig-ht hand side of the car for the rest of the way. Occasional glimpses of the river are caug-ht until, emerg-ing from the woods, we come out #;^ ^3 upon the southern shore of Intermediate Lake with a tiny island in the center of the channel. The train skirts the shores of this beautiful lake for miles. The forest is very dense and g-rand, being- heavy hardwood timber. The shores rise in steep terraces abruptly from the lake, the water reflects as in a mirror the beautiful foliag-e, and the whole journey is one constant panorama of extensive vistas of water, forest and hillside. D 67 The next stop is at Central Lake, another industri- ous little town. After following- the lake along- its now narrow course— more like a river than a lake — the road skirts a sort of bayou and then leaving- the water alto- g-ether, plung-es for a few moments into a dense forest whose noble foliag-e cannot but command our admira- tion. In a few moments once more the lake appears, seeming-ly more beau- tiful than ever because of the splendid opposite bank which rises in a g-race- ful slope to consider- able heig-ht and is cov- eredwith ' noble trees. All al on g- the lake lumber operations are noted. Here a tug- tow- ing- log-s and there a raft; now a skiff and now a little camp upon the shore. Not for an instant does the scene lose its charm until, with a sig-h of reg-ret, we reach Kllsworth, which marks the head waters of this beautiful chain of lakes — though to speak accurately, the lake makes a broad bend here and continues its course for several miles further in a southeasterly direction. 68 Ellsworth is a small vnllag-e and the connecting- point with a stag-e line (7 miles) to East Jordan. East Jordan is also reached by boat from Charlevoix (see pag-e 85). As if to atone for the disappointment on leaving- Intermediate Lake, our route leads us past three other pretty little lakes about whose shores the railroad winds until at last the larg-e and handsome Pine Lake appears on the rig-ht. This we skirt for a mile, stop- ping- first at Belvedere, a station close to the Belvedere Hotel of the Kalamazoo resort in Charlevoix. Then crossing- the narrow channel between Round and Pine Lakes, the train stops at the Charlevoix depot proper. To the left is the new, larg-e and handsome Charlevoix Inn with its beautiful g-rounds. To the rig-ht the pretty depot park stretches to the water's edg-e. For Charle- voix see pag-e 79. The journe}' now lies throug-h rather a desolate looking- country, the scene in recent years of fierce forest fires, for a few miles. Occasional glimpses of Lake Michig-an may be had to the left (north side). The pretty resort Bay Shore is passed and ag-ain we enter the woods, and in a few minutes emerg-e upon the very shores of the great lake itself. This forms one of the finest approaches to Petoskey. The view is superb. We are fully a hundred feet above the water, on the very edge of the bluff. Before us stretches the great lake; straight across (9 miles) lies the opposite bank of Little Traverse Bay, which sweeps eastward to Bay View and Petoskey. A little to the east the prett}" lighthouse may be plainh^ seen on a clear day, marking Harbor Springs. Away in front of us in the bight of the bay the shore rises in fine bluffs crowned with the cottages of Roaring Brook and Bay View. The 69 p- ^ (i . larg-e white building- directh' ahead is the New Arling-- ton Hotel, while below us the water g-lows in match- less colors or dances in g-olden ripples, or dashes in pure white surf ag-ainst the beautiful beach. Mean- while the train is rapidly descending- the bluff and rounding- a prett}' point, crosses the brawling- Bear Creek, to stop at the handsome Petoske}^ depot. From thence it proceeds close along- the shore of the bay, past the imposing- limestone quarry (see pag-e 99) to its terminus at Bay View. 2. By Carriage Road to Elk Rapids and Inland Lakes to Charlevoix. The trip from Traverse Cit}' to Elk Rapids may be made by carriag-e road and will afford a pleasant drive or bicycle ride. The road is, in general, in good condition and for many long stretches very fine. It is somewhat hilly in the central portion, the hills being long but not steep. The distance is eigh- teen miles and many fine views are to be enjoyed. Crossing the Old Mis- sion peninsula, the road follows along the ba}' im- mediateh^ above the rail- road, which it crosses at Acme (4 miles). From this point it runs nearh^ due north, with occasional glimpses of the lake, fine farming country passing (about 13 miles) a little lake on the right known as Lake Pto-ba-go. Soon we climb a hill whose crest reveals a fine expanse of throuo-h 71 lake and shore line. The character of the country from this point begins to show a marked chang-e. Long and beautiful hedges of spruce and iir, wide "openings" adorned with the low, flaring and circular juniper — a shrub or bush of the evergreen family — and exquisite copses of small pines take tbe place of fields and farms. The road is from this point (for five miles), to Elk Rapids, excep- t ion ally fine and the whole scene is one of wild, romantic beauty and de- lightful inte- rest to the visitor. ^ *•-- -^^^ Rapids — A little town, "^^^^ finely situated on the west shore of Grand Traverse Bay where Klk Lake, and its long chain of sister lakes, flows into Lake Michigan. The rapids, headed in recent years by a large dam, takes its course so as to form a prett}^ island crowned with a handsome residence and park. The town itself is neatly laid out, a typical small lake port, and will be full of interest to the observant traveler. It has a very good hotel and is headquarters for boating and fishing excursions of great variety and interest. A small steamer leaves Klk Rapids every day to traverse for some distance, the chain of inland lakes which lie behind it. The route is very pretty. No more delightful trip can be imagined than to take a small boat, row or sail, and follow the course of these lakes to their head waters at Ellsworth. Such a trip has many advantages — perfect safety, great variety and 72 beauty of scenery, line fishing- of every kind, and in addition to these the route passes so man}^ little towns, not to mention farm houses, that one is in constant and easy reach of g-ood accommodations. It may be made long- or short, according- to desire, by use of railroad and steamboat facilities along- the way. A g-ood row boat fitted with a small sail is recommended for such a trip. While of course reasonable familiarity with the handling- of a boat is necessary, expert knowl- edg-e is not required as the lakes are so narrow and landlocked that dang-er from storms is reduced to the slig-htest minimum. By use of the map (see pag-e 56) and a little care, a g-uide is unnecessary. The course lies across Elk Lake from Elk Rapids to the narrows leading- into Round Lake. Note that the passag-e is not in the extreme big-ht of the bay, but a little above. By taking- at once the ^ east shore it cannot be missed. ^M Rounding- this shore, we soon . , . ^ enter Torch River, a pretty stream in the center of whose course is located Welch's hotel. A little above the hotel the Rapid River, a famous trout stream, pours into Torch River. Continuing- our course, we enter Torch Lake, and, taking at once the east bank, Alden, a pretty villag-e, is passed about four miles, and six miles further north we reach the entrance of Clam Lake. Torch Lake itself stretches away northward for twelve miles to 73 Eastport. Many pleasant places are located on the upper shores of this lake. Entering- Clam Lake, we follow a narrow, winding course through Clam Lake and up the east shore to Grass Lake. At its northern edg-e (a long arm to the west to be avoided) we enter the narrows, and in two miles reach Bellaire. Here the stream is very narrow, and a mill dam is reached where portag-e must be made. The mill owners are required bv the laws of river navi- gation to make this portag-e for all boats, and a courte- ous request for assistance to the foreman, will be promptly responded to. A little difficulty may be ex- perienced with logs on the upper stream, but reasonable assistance will always be g-iven by the mill men. A little patience and judg-ment will surmount all obstacles. Passing- through the beautiful Intermediate River (keep east bank and avoid long- bayou on the west) we enter Intermediate Lake. This lake is a g-em of beauty; it resembles a river, being long and narrow. The banks rise high on either side, covered with noble forests and grand foliage. It is nearly fifteen miles from the mouth of the narrows to Ellsworth, where the head waters are reached. Ellsworth being on the railroad, the boat may be sent back from this point to its proper destination by freight. To those who enjoy a cruise of this sort, we know of no more charming or feasible route. Compare, however, the Inland Route (page 128), which may be made the entire way b}^ steamer if so desired. Prom Elk Rapids bicyclers may continue the jour- ne}^ to Charlevoix, following due north between Torch Lake and Grand Traverse Bay to the village of Torch Lake (about 13 miles); hence north to the extremity of Torch Lake to Eastport (3 miles); hence due north eight 74 miles, passing the little town of Atwood, five miles from Eastport. From this point the road travels in ang-ular direction northeast, nine miles to Charlevoix. While the journey ma}^ be readily made, the road can not be called first class and the bicyclist must be pre- pared to do some hard riding-. M 76 PART HL LITTLE TRAVERSE BAY. Immediately above Grand Traverse Ba}' the shore of the mainland beg"ins to recede in a bold headland toward the east. At this point lies Charlevoix, which may be called the entrance to Little Traverse Bay, althoug-h technically the ba}^ really begins several miles further eastward. This bay is much smaller than Grand Traverse Bay, but its position, beaut}' and varied attractions have made it famous among- the summer resorts of the country. It is about 20 miles from Charlevoix to Petoskey, and the ba}" varies in width from nine to three miles. A description as approached by steamboat will be found on pag-e 47. 1. Charlevoix, (1) History — -The history of Charlevoix is inti- mately related to that of the whole reg^ion of which it is a part. Its strateg-ic situation upon a headland com- manding- the entrance to both g-reat bays, g-ave it im- portance as a place of rendezvous on the main thoroug-h- fare of early Indian and pioneer travel. Its marvelous beauty and perfect adaptation for camping- purposes made it a favorite stopping- place. Its river, with beautiful Round Lake, opening- up into Pine Lake, g-ave it commercial importance of g-reat value. Nature certainly has lavished here every g-ift of grace and beauty, and it is a matter of sincere cong-ratulation 79 that commercial and utilitarian interests have been able to destroy so little of its orig-inal unique and surpassing- charm. Aside from its occasional mention as a stopping- place for the earliest pioneers, Charlevoix's chief his- toric interest lies in its connection with the Mormon "king-dom,"' a full account of which is narrated on pag-e 89. The center of Mormon operations was Beaver Island, but a place of such importance strateg-ically as Charlevoix could scarcely escape the covetous desires of these early "pirates", as they have well been called. Previous to 1850 Charlevoix, or Pine River as it was then known, had been inhabited by numerous fishermen, and quite a little settlement had g-raduall}^ g-rown up. These were the victims of constant depredations by the Mormons of Beaver Island, and many sharp quarrels resulted. In 1852 a party of Mormons, attempting- to secure the persons of three ashermen throug-h some leg-al technicalties, were met by armed resistance when they landed at Charlevoix. Shots were exchang-ed on both sides and several of the Mormons wounded. The party withdrew with threats of veng-eance, and the fishermen, fearing- later attacks by a strong-er party, left in a panic, deserting- their homes and much of their property. After this occurrence the place was occupied by Mormon squatters for some years. In 1855 Mr. John S. Dickson arrived. He had pur- chased a larg-e tract of land here from the State. A long-, unhappy strug-g-le with the Mormons ensued, and many thrilling- tales are recorded of his experiences and those of his wife, who at one time was forced to leave her children and walk the whole distance to Petoske}' along- the shore, with no road, to summon aid ag-ainst a Mormon attack. These piratical depredations did not 80 end until the assassination of Strang- in 1856 and with his death the breaking- up of the Mormon settlement on Beaver Island. From that time the villag-e g-rew undis- turbed, passing- throug-h all the experiences incident to a pioneer settlement, until 1879 when it was incorpor- ated as a villag-e. In recent years it has been specially j:l*ii^-^ A attractive as a place of summer resort, while its connec- tion by water with a larg-e interior reg-ion has made it always a shipping- port of considerable importance. It has a population of nearly 2,000. (2) Itinekaky— Charlevoix is so located as to pre- view exceptionally charming- and offering- an 81 sent a unusual variety of summer attractions. The coast of Lake Michig-an consists at this point of a series of sand dunes or hills which follow a small but sharp indenta- tion in the shore. Between these sand dunes, (the tallest is known as Mount McSauba) the Pine River cuts its narrow channel. This has been so improved by the Government as to provide a channel for the larg-est boats, and its entrance is marked by a small lighthouse at the end of a long- breakwater. The river proper is quite narrow and less than half a mile long-, opening- into beautiful little Round Lake. Here where the banks sweep in terraces down to the water's edge, nestles the little village, and all about are grouped the charming summer homes of the various resorts. For this reason it is difficult to determine upon any single starting point for our itinerary. Perhaps the most convenient will be the swinging bridge which crosses the river just at the entrance to Round Lake and close to the steamer docks. From this bridge one gets a good view of the main business street of the town. Our first stroll will take us through this street to the foot of a hill (about three blocks) where, turning to the left we follow the fine avenue to the Kalamazoo resort and Bellvedere hotel. Pretty cottages adorn the beautiful terraces upon the right, while on the left the lake glows in a deep and beautiful blue. Across upon the other shore are seen the handsome cottages of the Chicago resort. Beyond, the lake rounds to a narrow stream, across which is thrown the large iron railroad swinging bridge, Following the avenue to its end (about five minutes walk) we reach the attract- ive Bellvedere hotel surrounded with cottages, and beyond, across the railroad track, the wide and fine expanse of Pine Lake lies before us. 82 Pine Lake is a larg-e sheet of water divided, at the southern extremity, into two arms— South Arm, leading- to East Jordan (12 miles); and Pine Lake proper, ending- in Boyne City, about 15 miles from Charlevoix. Turn- ing- to the rig-ht, the cottag-es extend back of the hotel for a considerable distance, and immediately across the street is the little suburban depot of the Chicag-o & West Michig-an R. R. known as Bellvedere. From this point the railroad bridg-e may be crossed by those in haste (crossing- unpleasant and dang-erous) to the Charlevoix Inn and depot proper which lie immediately across the river (a row boat may sometimes be secured as ferry). Most visitors will, however, prefer to retrace the journey throug-h the villag-e, and returning- to the bridg-e, climb the little hill that lies beyond, and pass- ing throug-h a pretty residence portion of Charlevoix, take the iirst turn to the rig-ht. Follow this street for live minutes walk when the beautiful new Charlevoix Inn, which g-races the shores of Pine Lake, appears to the rig-ht. The Inn is 450 feet long-, built on g-raceful lines, situated in a beautiful park with fine approach from the depot. Beyond the depot the pretty railroad park stretches to the water's edg-e. Immediately across the track is located a natatorium, complete and eleg-ant in all its appointments. The Charlevoix Inn, completed in 1898, is one of the most elegant and beautiful of the hotels of American summer resorts and should certainly be inspected by the tourist. Just before reaching- the hotel a larg-e g-reenhouse is passed; turning at this point to the left (north) a footpath (5 minutes walk) leads to the conspicuous Mount McSauba upon which an observatory tower has been built. From this commanding eminence a view of surpassing beauty may be enjoyed. The itinerary will 83 be completed b}^ descending- from this point to the shore of Lake Michigan, and following- that shore throug-h charming- g-rove and beach back to the river, thence past the Fountain House to the swing-ing bridg-e, our point of beg-inning-. Round Lake furnishes ideal boating- and bathing- privileg-es and pleasant outing-s, both rowing- and sail- ing-, may be enjoyed. Competent sailors may be se- cured at very reasonable cost and a cruise under their direction in Round and Pine Lakes will be found a most delig-htful recreation. The tourist can vary his enjoy- ments almost indefinitely to suite his tastes and time. 2. Excursions from Charlevoix, (I) Pine Lake. As has been previously noted. Pine Lake is an extensive sheet of water, fifteen miles long- and aver- ag-ing- about three miles wide. It is divided at 84 the southern extremity by a blunt peninsula, the South Arm bay being- long- and narrow. Steamers leave about once in two hours for the two principal ports at the extremities of the lake, East Jordan and Boyne City. The round trip is very enjoyable and may be made in six hours. Leaving- the dock at Charlevoix, the little steamer crosses Round Lake, and passing throug-h the narrow channel spanned by a railroad bridg-e, it enters Pine Lake. To the east the larger arm of the lake may be plainly seen stretching away southward to Boyne City. Boyne City is an enterprising little town whose in- terests are mostly lumber. It does not command the special attention of visitors, althoug-h from this point the Boyne River may be reached (see also pag-e 40), where fine trout fishing- is to be found. East Jordan is more often visited by tourists be- cause of the beautiful trip on Pine Lake and also for the unusually fine opportunities for fishing to be found in that reg-ion. The South Arm is hidden for several miles, lying- behind a point on the west shore. As we round this point Ironton comes in view, a little town once the basis of operations of the Pine Lake Iron Co., whose ruined and deserted blast furnaces, where iron ore was con- verted into pig- iron, still remain. Beyond is seen a large g-roup of old charcoal kilns which, in the rear view as the steamer leaves the town, look like huge old- fashioned bee hives and add a quaint touch to the land- scape. Immediately upon leaving Ironton the steamer en- ters the narrows, where an old-fashioned scow ferry may be seen which transports pedestrians and teams from the "pensnsula'' to the mainland. The channel at 85 this point becomes very narrow. As we leave the nar- rows a bav may be noted on the east side, said to be famous bass fishing grounds. Some distance ahead an island comes into view. This is Holy Island, so called because it was used as a place of "worship" by the Mor- mons in the days of King Strang (1850) of Beaver Island fame. Just why this island was selected is not plain, but there is no question of the fact as a matter of history. The journey now leads through a more or less narrow arm until rounding Lone Point, East Jordan appears to the east and the landing is quickly made. The little steamer usually makes several landings en route. These stops at the little docks and settlements contribute an added interest to a most delightful trip. Jordan River and Deer Creek, both close to the vil- lage of East Jordan, are among the finest trout streams in northern Michigan. They are streams of great beauty and considerable size, and they have long been famous among the disciples of Isaac Walton. A convey- ance should be taken from East Jordan to points from four to eight miles up the streams, which may then be fished down as far as desired, where the teams will be in waiting for the return to town. Ordinarily from three to four miles is a big day's work in fishing a trout stream. Certainly it is all that can be properly fished under ordinary circumstances. If desired, these streams can be fished in a boat (taken by wagon from East Jor- dan), a skilled oarsman being required, however, as the current is swift. Wading boots are very desirable, but not absolutely necessary. Monroe Creek is a small stream which empties into South Arm directly across the bay from East Jordan. Less ambitious anglers will find this a pleasant and accessible trout stream. "Still fishing" is reasonably successful along the banks of the bay. (2) Charlevoix to East Jordan by carriage road. The trip from Charlevoix to East Jordan may be made very pleasantly by carriag-e or bicycle. The roads are by no means perfect ; some hill climbing- will be encountered, but no formidable difficulties present them- selves, and on the whole the roads are very g-ood and enjoyable. The trip may be taken down one side of the arm and up the other— the roads are about equally g-ood and this will add a variety to the tour. A pleasant combination tour for bicyclers is to g-o to East Jordan by wheel and return by steamer, or vice versa. Al- though a little better road may be had by keeping above Ironton, the g-ain is very slig-ht and the tourist is strong-ly recommended to visit this little town. The old iron furnace and charcoal kiln will be full of interest. Leaving- Charlevoix, then, the route lies past the Bellvedere hotel and then parallel with the railroad track for a short distance. The larg-e building on the shore is the D. M. Ferry Seed Co's warehouse, where line seeds, especially peas of which this reg-ion produces a superior quality, are stored. A little further on the road crosses the railroad track, and ascending- a little way a small hill, we keep to the left road and follow parallel with the track, now on the rig-ht hand, to a short but steep hill. Climbing- this we find sand for a short distance, and just here a sandy road (there is promise that it may be g-raveled this season) continues to the left across a roug-h stretch of country. This road may be followed to Ironton if desired, and after a mile and a half of sand it becomes hard and good, and affords many pretty vistas of the lake. But we will describe the other route, in which we keep to the right, and after a gentle descent (good 87 road) we climb a long- but easy grade, well graveled, to a little white school house (3 miles from Charlevoix) with a log- house immediately beyond. The road leads straig-ht on to the head of a small lake called Newman's Lake, where it deflects to the left a little, and then im- mediately we turn to the rig-ht ag-ain and climb a steep hill to find the lake close at our rig-ht. Prom this point we follow to the foot of a short, steep hill. This hill we do not climb, but turning- to the left, follow straig-ht on, avoiding- the road to the rig-ht, to where the road crosses another at right ang-les; we keep straig-ht ahead up a series of hills which look more formidable in the distance than the}^ really are. Reaching- the crest of the hill, we come in a little time to a four corners. This is the place where the other road mentioned above joins our road. Our journey takes us straig-ht on for a mile, where Ironton appears in view, and descending- the hill with the little town on the left, we reach the quaint old ferry. This ferr^' is operated at county expense, therefore no charg-e is made for transportation. Doubtless the old ferryman will take you over in a little skiff, as the scow is used mostly for teams. After crossing- the arm, we proceed on the journey throug-h the peninsula. The road runs due east for about two miles, then on passing- a schoolhouse on the north side of the road, we take the first turn to the rig-ht, and climbing- a long-, steep hill, reach its crest where fine views are to be enjo^^ed in every direction. From this point the road runs along- the island parallel to the bay. Avoid roads turning- to the right. The distance from the ferr}^ to East Jordan is nine miles. About four miles from East Jordan a beautiful brook of spring water is crossed. Be3'Ond this 88 the road is very g-ood to the town. No special descrip- tion of the road on the other side of South Arm is needed, as the simple direction "follow the telephone line" is all that is necessary. 3 Beaver Island. One of the most interesting- places to visit in this reg-ion is Beaver Island, situated thirty-five miles almost due north of Charlevoix. Mail steamer leaves Charle- voix on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday of each week, fare for the round trip S2.0U. No stops are made be- tween Charlevoix and St. James, the sing-le villag-e on the island. The course lies close to the eastern shore of the island its entire leng-th. Most tourists will not wish to remain longer than the few hours that the steamer sta3^s there. To those who desire absolute quiet and rest in novel and quiet surrounding-s, a long-er visit is strong-ly recommended. The accommodations at Mrs. Gibson's are of the very best, especially famous for her cooking- of fish. There is much of scenic beauty, romantic history and novel surrounding-s to make a visit of some days most restful and pleasant. The town of St. James is situated in a beautiful bay protected from storms by a long- point upon which is placed a lighthouse and life-saving- station. The larg-er part of the village is directly across the bay from the point. The principal business is fishing-. Those to whom this industry is new will be interested in watch- ing- its operations. A trip in the fish tug- will be enjoyed by those whose stomachs are not "finniky I" The historic interest of the Beaver Island centers in the story of James Jesse Strang-. This strang-e 89 character was born in 181 3 and was actively identified with the Mormon church in the earlier period of its career. After the death of Joseph Smith a larg-e number of his immediate Mormon neig"hbors were convinced of the truth of Strang-'s claim to be the successor of Smith and mig-rated with him to Beaver Island about 1849. Strang- was publich^ crowned King- of the Island in 1850. From that time until the day of his death he ruled his king-- dom with a high hand. He instituted polyg-amy, having- himself at least five wives. He established an order of "Destroying- Ang-els'' who in secret wreaked his veng-e- ance on all who disobeyed his will. He carried on a series of depredations upon the "g-entle" fishmen that attained the proportions of a real piracy, and he manip- ulated the politics at the island in such a way as to escape all punishment of his crimes, even securing- his own election to the state leg-islature for the two terms of 1853-55. Such a course could have but one issue. There arose about this man an increasing number of bitter enemies, who only bided their time to inflict revenge upon him. Among these was Dr. McCuUoh, a promi- nent Mormon whose house (see illustration page 91) was a center of Mormon interest and who was at one time a confidential advisor ot Strang himself. Another was Tom Bedford, who, though nominally a Mormon, did not sympathize with Strang and refused to be party to his piracies, and who had been flogged at the whipping post by the Destroying Angel for insubordination. These two men determined on Strang's assassination. Early in 1856 the government boat "Michigan" came into St. James to investigate into the disorders pertaining thereto. The commander sent for Strang. On his way to the boat he was fired upon by Bedford 90 and McCulloh who had hidden themselves in some near- by wood pile. Strang- died of his wounds some weeks after, being- removed to his old home in Voree. Bedford and McCulloh fled to the "Michigan'' for protection and were taken with their families to Mackinac, where they were received as heroes. A few months later the Mormons, now without a leader, were driven forcibly from the island without being- allowed to take more of their possessions than the clothes they had on. There is one main street in St. James which leads from the woods on the south, where are the charred ruins of Strang-'s castle, to the lig-hthouse point. Just beyond Mrs. Gibson's is the old McCulloh home, the onl}^ relic of the Mormon days now left, unless it be the pine tree behind Mr. Neal Gallagher's store which is said to be Strang-'s famous whipping- post. Beaver Island is about eig^hteen miles long- and eig-ht miles wide. It is covered with most beautiful forestry of pine, balsam, spruce and fir. Its miles and miles of heath hard enough for a bicycle or carriage, 91 afford opportunity for many charming- vistas and superb views. One of the grandest views in Northern Michi- g-an can be obtained from the summit of Mount Pisg-ah, a g-reat sand dune rising- fully 250 feet on the western coast of the island, a pleasant walk from St. James. There are several small lakes on the island whose almost virg-in waters offer splendid fishing- to those enterprising- enoug-h to reach them. About a mile from the town, south on the ''King's Hig-hway" is the little Catholic Church, presided over for thirty years by Father Gallagher, whose name is a household word far and wide. 3. Petoskey and Immediate Environs, - 1) History — Petoskey, one of the chief cities of Northern Michigan, is charmingly situated near the eastern extremity of Little Traverse Bay, with about 4500 inhabitants normal population. It is the center of business and resort interests for quite an extended ter- ritory. Petoskey was incorporated as a village in 1879 and as a city in 1895. From time immemorial its site was a favorite rendezvous for native Indian tribes, and the early history of Petoske}" is inseparably connected with Indian traditions. The story of its name is as fol- CHfEF PETOSKEY, lows In 1787 one Nee-i-too-shing, a chief of the Chippewa tribe, had born to him at sunrise, in his wigwam on the banks of the Manistee River, a son, whom he named Pe-to-se-ga, meaning "the rising sun." This chief tan 92 moved northward with his famil}' and in time took up his abode on Little Traverse Bay near Harbor Spring-s. Here was the boyhood home of Pe-to-se-g-a, and when he was twenty-two years old he married and settled here in a home of his own. Many years later, owincr to religious differences between himself and the Catholic priests to whose domination he declined to submit, he moved to the other side of the bay and took up his abode on the g-round now occupied by the city which was called after him, Petoskey being- an unhappy corruption of Pe-to-se-g-a. Previous to this, for many years Little Traverse Bay had been the center of Catholic missionary opera- tions. More than two hundred years ag-o Father Marquette was wont to visit here with his companions, and the Marquette trail leading- between Grand Traverse Bay and Mackinac Island via Charlevoix and Petoske}', is still extant, a portion of which, running- through the park of the Arling-ton Hotel, may be readily visited and is an interesting- and historic memorial of these stirring times. In 1852 Mr. Andrew Porter, still living and an honored citizen of Petoskey, came in the interests of the Government Protestant school, and located here on what is now the Jarman farm, situated on a beautiful knoll immediately south of the Charlevoix road and about three-quarters of a mile from the Mitchell street bridge. Here he established an industrial training school for the instruction of the Indians in the simple elementary branches and in agricultural pursuits. At midnight December 31st, 1874, the first train entered Petoskey, then a mere hamlet, and for several years this place was the terminus of the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad. In 1882 the road was completed to 93 4 ^ o w Oh Q o m P O H-r s g p I/! P P O m- Mackinaw City. The remaining- history of Petoskey is that which is characteristic of the g-rowth of all western cities — the advance of all civic conditions with rapid strides. In 1882 it had a population of 2700 souls. In 1894 this was increased to 3649. The g-rowth, thoug-h rapid, was wholesome and healthy. Petoskey has never been a "boom" town and has always been singularly free from the evils incident to a place of summer resort. (2) Itinerary — Starting- from the Grand Rapids & Indiana depot the pedestrian will follow the broad walk throug-h a pretty park, a few hundred feet to Lake street. On the left, across the railroad track, are the Occi- dental and Cushman hotels. Turning- west, to the rig-ht one block, to Howard street, the center of the business portion of the city is reached; hence west along Lake street to (one block) Chicago & West Michi- igan Railway station with beautiful park, approached either by drive or staircase, the latter somewhat long and steep. A little further on a low bridge crossing Bear Creek near where it empties into Lake Michigan, (on the right side, city water works) crossing the bridge we find a winding path along the river bank, which leads to the high bridge above. From this bridge (Mitchell street) a fine view of the lake and bay and the picturesque banks of Bear Creek is secured. Continuing up Mitchell street (east) the railroad is crossed (two blocks), and farther (one block) the hand- some Methodist Episcopal and Presbyterian churches on the north side and Episcopal church on the south, are passed. Continuing up the hill, a somewhat fatiguing 95 walk, (five to ten minutes), and at its crest turning- north on Summit street to the edge of the bluff, (red brick house on the left), a superb view is had of the whole bay. Below and to the left lies the city, while to the rig-ht the shore sweeps in a beautiful curve. Bay View is hidden by an intervening- hill, but beyond around the farthest bend of the bay the larg-e white hotel on the heig-hts marks Roaring Brook; the cottages farther along the shore, Wequetonsing, and a little further the houses and church spires of Harbor Springs may be distinctly seen, while the red brick lighthouse will serve as a landmark for Harbor Point. The farth- est point of land beyond is known as "Nine Mile Point," be3'ond which lie Middle and Cross Villages. On clear days the outlines of Beaver Island ma}^ be distinctl}^ descried directly beyond "Nine Mile Point'' and thirt}'- five miles away. The opposite shore, view finest when the surf is running, stretches in unbroken sweep to Charlevoix (19 miles) with the pretty village of Bay Shore seven miles distant. Returning descent may be made down Lake street with its pretty residences to the center of the city. If a more extended tour is desired it might be advis- able to secure a conveyance. Pine views may be had from any of the hills which surround Petoskey. A pleasant five mile drive may be enjoyed by crossing, westward, the Mitchell street bridge and following the main-traveled highway, known as the Charlevoix road, which immediately beyond the bridge makes several turns at short intervals ; passing the Catholic cemetery (north side) with its grewsome crucifix, we reach the Fair Grounds, where the road turns sharply and follows closely the edge of a high and picturesque bluff with 96 '4^' charming- views. A short distance farther on, immedi- ately behind the Fair Grounds, a road will be noted leading to the left from Charlevoix road. This may be taken to the top of the hill, where a schoolhouse will be seen at the four corners. Turning- here to the left and passing- in front of the school house, the drive may be delig-htfully continued along- the beautiful hig-hlands overlooking- the bay all the way. and through a fine fruit farming section. Turning again to the left (half a mile) we reach the summit of Cemetery Hill — protestant cemetery to the left. Here, perhaps, the finest view of Petoskey and the sweep of the bay is secured and is well worth all the time and effort. Descending the hill, we reach the Charlevoix road again and retrace our way to the right to the city (one and a half miles). Pedestrians will find this a charming morning's walk, and bicyclists can make this trip, with occasional dis- mounts, with ease and pleasure. This tour may easily be made in a forenoon. To secure a complete itinerary of the city and its immediate environs, the route to Bay View, a little more than a mile distant, should not be omitted. The road lies directly behind the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad depot, pass- ing a little park where may be seen a well-defined sec- tion of the Marquette trail, the old Indian path wa}' between Traverse City and Mackinac (see page 93). The park is a part of the grounds of the large and handsome 98 New Arling-ton Hotel. Inspection of this imposing- structure should be made and the grand view from its verandas enjoyed. The road, turning- here, passes around the hotel and lies along- the high bluffs past the lime quarr}^ which is full of interest — especially to the scientifically inclined. The quarry may be reached by staircase in front of the Arling-ton, or from the beach. The quarry cliff is 45 feet hig-li (the averag-e heig-ht is 60 feet from the water to the top of the bluff, and reaches in some places to 90 feet), and contains a limestone of very superior quality. This formation belong-s to the Palaeozic time and the Ham- ilton g-roup, which means that it is of very early orig-in. The lower strata are remarkably even-bedded and do not contain many fossils. The upper strata are rich in fossils of many kinds, the principal being- Stromatopora and Favosites ; the latter name — Favosites — (from "favus" — honey-comb) may be applied in g-eneral to all that coral formation which is so thickly strewn alono- this shore, and which is become known as the "Petoskey ag-ate" althoug-h it is in no sense an ag-ate. _ These ag-ates may be g-athered along the shore in quan- tities, but mostly of inferior quality. ^ They can be pol- ished, if desired, at the various ag-ate works, situated near the dock, where many fine specimens will also be found on sale. This quarry produces 120 barrels of lime per day from each kiln. The yearh- output is about 40,000 ^l 99 barrels. There are several other quarries along- the southern shore. Further on are the g-reenhouses, where choice flowers may be had, the sweet-pea being especially beautiful in this climate. Opposite the g-reenhouse is Recreation Park, a ball g-round. A little farther on the railroad is ag-ain crossed and immediately Bay View, w4th depot to the left is reached. The Wheelway — In this connection should be mentioned the wheelway which is now under construc- tion between Petoskey and Harbor Spring's. Already a part of the "way" is completed and affords a most pic- turesque and charming ride. Following the Bay View road as already described, past the Bay View depot and straight ahead for about two blocks, a turn is made to the left immediately in front of the Howard House. Then crossing- the railroad the "way," by an abrupt, short descent, reaches the ^,; shore and turns sharply to !':0: the rig-ht. Riders should keep their wheels under control and be on the watch ;« for trains, and cyclers ap- proaching from the opposite direction. The "way" then takes its course (not open to teams) close to the shore past Bay View and Keg-omic (a larg-e tannery) and along- the edg-e of sand barrens, a wild and picturesque country to Pag-e — a bathing station four miles from Petoskey — from which point further construction is being- rapidly pushed so as to connect with a similar "way" now being- constructed from Harbor Springs and Wequetonsing-. 100 k 4, Little Traverse Bay from Petoskey to Harbor Springs, Including Bay View, Roaring Brook and We-'que^'ton'^sing. Little Traverse Bay is ten miles long-, (although the south shore reaches out about twenty miles to Charle- voix), and from three to six miles in width. It makes a broad and beautiful sweep on an almost perfect ellipse from Petoskey to Harbor Spring's, a distance of nearly ten miles. The shore rises for the most part in stately terraces from the water-edg-e and affords a remarkably ideal situation for a summer home. Beautiful villas and resorts already occupy a larg-e part of this shore, and a trip around the bay is a most delig^htful journey. The trip may be taken by boat, train, carriag-e or wheel. We describe it as follows : V By Boat or Train. a. By Boat — Two admirable steam ferries, the Hazel and the Adrienne, make regular trips about once an hour (see time card in all hotels and newspapers) every day and evening-. In g-ood weather the trip is most enjoyable. b. By Train — The Grand Rapids & Indiana Rail- way has established an admirable suburban service from Petoskey to Harbor Springs with trains every 60 minutes. Passeng-ers occupying the open car should be on their g-uard against cinders. A description of the route by train will apph- equally to the boat. Leaving Petoskey, the train passes the Arlington Hotel, and traversing the high bluffs beyond, affords beautiful glimpses of the bay. One mile from Petoskey K 101 (for description of intermediate route see pag-e 95) the first stop is made at Rosedale, a pretty summer suburb of Pestoskev and, two minutes later, at Bay View. Bay View — A charming- resort and notable summer school. It is one of the most prominent assemblies in the country, being- second only in size and importance to Chautauqua itself. (1) HisTOKY— In 1875 a joint committee of the two Michig-an Conferences of the Methodist Episcopal Church was appointed for the purpose of org-anizing- a Michig-an Camp Ground Association and this committee was also authorized to choose the location. Bay View was chosen and in Aug-ust 6, 1876, the first assemblag-e was held. The g-rowth since that time has been very great. To the orig-inal Camp Ground Association which controls the property, has been added the "As- sembly" and "Summer School," which conducts a g-reat educational enterprise on lines similar and upon propor- tions second only to the orig-inal and far-famed Chau- tauqua. For full information address John Hall, Chancellor, Flint, Mich. Mr. HalFs address in the summer season is Bay View. (2) Itinerary — Owing- to the natural formation in a series of beautiful terraces rising- in amphitheater form, and to the winding- nature of the streets and avenues of Bay View, it is at first somewhat difficult for the strang-er to find his way about. The confusion is heightened by the lack of names of the streets on the houses, as well as by the method of numbering by blocks instead of streets. It is to be hoped that an improvement in this direction will soon be inaugurated. Plats, however, a fac simile of which may be found on 103 pag-e 102, can be secured at the office of the association, and by this assistance desired locations may be found without much difficulty. A tour over Bay View may be made in an hour, althoug-h many hours can be delig-htfully spent in this charming- spot, Following- the sidewalk immediately beyond the depot, we turn, and climb the steep terrace, Kncampment Avenue, passing- the Bay View Hotel and post office (in rear of hotel), crossing- Park Avenue, we follow Kncampment Avenue in its circular course across the wide campus, known as Fairview Park. At the further end of this park are situated the Assembly buildings, which form the center of the animated sum- mer life to be enjoyed here. The first building-, Loud Hall, contains a large and well-selected library and museum, and numerous well-equipped class rooms. The next building is Music Hall, and, beyond, pretty Evelyn Hall, with its charming veranda and spacious parlors.. Rooms on the upper floors of most of these buildings are offered for rent at rea ^onable rates. Beyond Evelyn Hall is the Auditorium, a large though very plain building, with a seating capacity of 2,000. The acoustic properties are very good. Immediately in front of the Auditorium, and in the center of the park, is the office of the association, near by the Assembly book store, while beyond lies pretty Epworth Hall, with a large chapel and other class rooms. From this point, if time permits and he so desires, the traveler may trace his way past the Auditorium to Forest Avenue, and up the terraces on the left to the highest terrace, where beautiful views are to be had on every side. If hurried, this trip may well be omitted, and, continuing on past Epworth Hall, he will descend to Woodland Avenue, where handsome summer homes 104 are seen on every side, and via Sunset Street down to the beach, dock and boat house. The beach may be fol- lowed a short distance back (toward Petoskey) to steps leading- up the first terrace to the depot. Visitors reach- ing- Bay View from the steamer (dock at the foot of Sunset Street) may reverse this route, if desired. Ordi- narily, however, they will find it more satisfactory to proceed in the order g-iven here. Continuing- our journey around the bay, the next stop is at Keg-omic. Here is located a larg-e tannery. The g-reat stacks of hemlock bark will interest the passing- observer. This bark is peeled from the hemlock trees from May to Aug-ust of each year and is shipped in from all the country round. It is worth about $4.00 per cord. The stacks ordinarily on hand represent from $40,000 to S60,000 in value. At Keg-omic the train leaves the main road for the Harbor Spring's branch, and following- close along- the shore, traverses the edg-e of wild, picturesque sand-barrens. The sand lies in g-reat dunes from twenty to fifty feet in heig-ht. It is covered with a g-rowth of scrubby, ragg-ed pine, spruce and other indigenous trees and carpeted with moss, lichens and wintergreen. Here is the home of the trail- ing arbutus which is found in large quantities in the early spring. Tne next stop is Page where simple accommoda- tions for the convenience of bathers have been built by the railroad, and immediately^ be^^ond is Mononaqua Beach, a new resort enterprise with a few cottages already built. Rounding the curve of the bay, the train enters the woods, and in a few moments stops at Roar- ing Brook. Roaring Brook. Although the name is a rather amusing misnomer (the brook is the gentlest and quietest 105 of streamlets) the place is one of exquisite beaut}'. The forest is of almost primeval loveliness in its native wildness. The foot path, a g-ood board sidewalk, winds about throug-h charming- vistas, g-radually climbing- the steep bluff which lies a short distance back from the railroad. This bluff, ninety feet above the water, is crowned by a handsome hotel and affords a mag-niiicent panorama of Petoskey, Bay View, Harbor Spring's, the Point, with the whole surrounding- countr3% and far out into the g-reat lake. Returning- to the depot, a short walk through beautiful cedar forests leads to the beach and dock where ferryboats stop reg-ularh'. The g-rounds, comprising- 120 acres, belong- to the Roaring- Brook Association. Continuing-, the train follows close to the bluff on the rig-ht and affords beautiful g-limpses of the lake on the left. The woods are mosth' birches, one of the most exquisite of trees, and this whole reg-ion be- tween the bluff and the shore is full of beautiful cottag-es. The next stop being- Wequetonsing-. Wequktonsing, a charming- spot in its quiet loveli- ness, is pre-eminently a home resort, no effort being- made to attract the itinerant traveler, but every effort being- made, on the other hand, to preserve its quiet beauty and homelike character. The well-conducted hotel is quite too small for the accommodation of all who would like to come, and is situated immediately south of the depot near the shore. A walk throug-h Wequetonsing- (half an hour) should not be omitted. It is only a short, pleasant walk (about one mile) from here to Harbor Springs, and those desiring- may plan to leave the train here. The building- on the rig-ht beyond the depot is Assembly Hall, used for religious and social purposes. Crossing the track we proceed straight to 106 the lake (south) passing- the hotel on the rig-ht, and, beyond, on the shore the dock, where steam ferries land reg"ularly every hour or less. The broad avenue which stretches along- the shore in either direction is lined with lovely summer homes, and presents an ideal picture of rest and summer recreation. A stroll to the left may be enjoyed if desired, but the route to Harbor Spring's lies to the rig-ht, where, passing- handsome cottag-es for a mile, we at last reach the outskirts of Harbor Spring-s. The g-ood pedestrian who desires to accomplish the most in the least time, (cyclists also), may climb the bluff at this point by a fairly g-ood road but sandy, and then following- the edg-e of the bluff (g-ood road) clear across the whole leng-th of thevillag-e to the grade (g-ood sidewalk) to Harbor Spring-s at the Kensing-ton Hotel. By this route a mag-nificent panorama of the bay will be enjoyed all the way. Those who do not care for such ardent exercises may turn to the left on reaching- the main street, one block across the railroad track, and following- it the leng-th of the villag-e, reach in five minutes the Kensing-ton Hotel. Harbor Springs — The dock and depot of Harbor Spring-s are quite close together and immediately across the track from the Kensing-ton Hotel. Leaving- the schoolhouse, descend by a long-, steep 107 depot, the road leads past the hotel (one block) to the main street of the villag-e. This may be followed, if desired, to where the road climbs the bluff at the other end of the town, and then, returning- along- the edg-e of the bluff, descend by another long- hill (g-ood sidewalk) to point of starting- (see middle parag-raph of pag-e 107). But, to simplif}^ matters, the principal points of interest in Harbor Spring-s are : first the view from the bluff ; second, the Catholic Church ; and third, Harbor Point Resort. (1). The View frofu the Bluff z^n be readily secured from the road which, leading- immediately from the depot, climbs obliquely the hillside at that point. This view is well worth the rather fatig-uing- ascent. Those who prefer it, and this plan is strongly recommended to ladies and persons not in robust health, may secure pleasant conveyances, at a reasonable rate, always to be found ready at dock, depot or hotel. The view is match- less. To the rig-ht sweeps the beautiful bay with its now familiar landmarks. Petoskey g-leams conspicuously from its bluff, directly across — about five miles. In the immediate foreg-round lies the beautiful Point, which is here seen from the finest point of view, with its eleg-ant homes and prett}^ lighthouse, and the lovel}^ little harbor whose rippling- waves are ever dancing- in the sun. Immediately below^ under the steep cliff, nestles the pretty white village itself, and far beyond, to the right, the great lake stretches out as far as the eye can see. On clear days the Beaver Islands may be readily descried lying thirty-five miles away, a little to the north of west. Returning by the same route, we turn to the right on reaching the main street to visit the Catholic Church and School. (2) Catholic Church and School — The conspicuous 109 church stands at the head of the street. Some years ag-o (in 1892) this church was built over a small and more picturesque building-. Its quaint decorations, the work of its Indian worshipers, especially the elaborately carved altar, made by the Indian boys, will interest the visitor, as also its services with Indian choir. Visitors are reminded that the place is sacred to those who wor- ship here and will preserve a proper decorum. The school is open to visitors one day of each week (usually Thursdays) from nine a. m. to live p. m. It is presided over by Father Zepehryn of the Order of St. Francis and Sister Superior Wilfred. The present school was org-anized in 1884, but it is the outgrowth of a school and mission beg^un here in 1828 when the enrollment was only thirty-six children. It is known technically as the Parish and School of the Holy Child- hood of Jesus and has a teaching- force of two fathers, four brothers and four sisters, besides several minor assistants. The school has accommodations for 125 boarders. The enrollment last year was 80 boarders, mostly Indians, and 30 day scholars. The school re- ceived from the government last year S108.00 per student for 45 students — a total of a little less than $5000.00. All government appropriations, however, end with this 3^ear under a recent act terminating ap- propriations to sectarian schools. Most of the protestant missions voluntarily relinquished their appropriations some years ago. Besides elementary school work and religious in- struction, the boys are taught carpenter work, printing- (an interesting weekly newspaper is printed in the Indian language) and binding, shoe-making, with other useful arts. The girls are taug-ht carpet weav- ing dress making including boys' clothing, knittings 110 and all branches of housekeeping-. Many articles showing- the work of the children are on exhibition. The standard of excellence is most creditable. A visit to this interesting school will be g-reatl}' enjo3^ed. (3) Hakbok Point Resort — Leaving the school, we return to the depot, and on from there to Harbor Point, a little over a mile. Visitors may easily walk this distance, although part of the way is sunny and un- attractive. They may also go by steamer if they care to wait to make conne ctions with the boat. The most comfortable way to make this trip, however, is to secure one of the convej^ances and drive. Very reasonable rates may be made for a drive throug-h the g-rounds. Harbor Point is one of the most beautiful and ele- gant of Michig-an summer resorts. Its unique position upon a long, graceful point of land which, extending out into the bay, gives on one side a fine sea exposure, while securing- on the other beautiful and perfectly pro- tected harbor with ideal boating facilities. The outer shore is a series of sand dunes and terraces from ten to thirty feet in height, with a beautiful white sandy beach, affording fine sites for buildings. Behind the 111 bluff the point itself is level, g-entlv sloping to the har- bor and covered with a dense forest of noble trees. This forest has been preserved in its natural state and is a spot of quiet love- liness that cannot fail to fascinate all who enter it. The well-kept sawdust road leads in winding- fashion to the eleg-ant Club House or hotel, which should be in- spected as it is a model of taste and beauty. Be- yond the hotel on the left lies the dock — where the ferry- boats touch regfularly — and the walk lies past beautiful summer homes to the tip of the Point where is situated the lig-hthouse which is open to visitors Thursdays from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m., and is full of interest. This lighthouse is one of the smaller lig-hts being- of the fourth order. It has a fixed red light having a magnifying lens of 240° The govern- ment estimate makes its range usefulness cover a dis- tance of 12 miles, but resident fishermen declare that they have seen it plainl}- as far as 22 miles. From this point the return may be made by either beach. Man}^ delightful strolls will suggest themselves to the visitor, in which he must be guided by the time at his disposal and his individual preferences. (2) From Petoskey to Harbor Springs, by Carriage Road. Passing immediatel}^ behind the Grand Rapids & Indiana depot, the road turns in front of the large New Arlington hotel and follows the bluff to Bay View. For detailed description see page 98. Passing the Ba}' View depot, the road continues through a long street lined on 112 either side with summer cottag-es, and turning- a little at one-half mile, follows a course parallel with the bay to Keg-omic, a larg-e tanner}^ with its row of little red houses. After passing- Kegomic the road crosses a small stream, ascends slightl3% and then turns sharply to the left (follow the telephone poles) passing- a long-, narrow pond on the rig-ht known as Mud Lake. Those scientifi- cally inclined will note with interest the traces of the Silurian period in the g-eolog-ical formation of the bed and shores of this lake. Crossing- the railroad (2 miles) the road now skirts a ridg-e of sand hills, and passing a summer g-arden (Moxie's) where another road known as the new Conway road diverg-es to the rig-ht, swerves a very little to the left and continues its nearly straig-ht course, revealing- a very beautiful vista of forest-covered hills in the far distance with occasional g-limpses of the blue waters of Round Lake to the rig-ht and the inter- esting- " Three Sisters " on the left. These are three tall, sug-ar-loaf sand hills or dunes, a part of a long- sys- tem of similar hills which intervene between the road and the shore of Little Traverse Bay covered with pretty clusters of the g-raceful Norway pine. The house on the east side of the road is Mr. Hathaway's. Here boats and fishing- tackle may be rented for use on Round Lake. A little beyond, the road descends, crossing- a short swamp, and climbs a steep, sandy hill in the midst of which the old road to Conway diverg-es on the rig-ht (4 miles) and after traversing a short stretch of sand and climbing a slight gravel hill, our road turns sharply west (to the left). Here we catch the first glimpses of the bay since leaving Kegomic, and the road follows in view of the bay all the rest of the journey. Half a mile further on the road curves to the right and runs through a beautiful forest of birch 113 and maple, where the telephone line appears ag-ain and will serve as an additional g-uide for the rest of the way — if such g-uide be necessary. From this point the course is almost due west to Harbor Spring's. Near here it will be no- ticed that the road emerg-ing- from the woods crosses throug-h the mid- dle of a larg-e circular clearing-. The visitor will be interested to know that this is one of many old Indian clearing's, larg-e and small, which may be noted along- almost all the roadwa3"S of Northern Mich- ig'an. Several smaller ones are passed on this road. About two miles further (on the left) a larg-e and handsome farm house will be noted, near which, almost hidden by the trees, stands the Roaring- Brook Hotel, well worthy of a visit (see pag-e 105.) Soon the very edg-e of the bluff is reached with mag-nificent views, below which lies Wequetonsing- described on pag-e 106. To the rig-ht a spring- of water is passed on the road- side g-uarded by posts. At this point in the larg-e field on the rig-ht are the links of the Wequetonsing- Golf Club. A little further and we reach the steep hill descending- to the city of Harbor Spring-s, with its superb view. For Harbor Springes see pag-e 107. 5. Excursion to Cross Village. Introductory Note : It is onl}' simple justice to the tourist to inform him that no tour in this reg-ion is complete without a visit to the quaint and historic little town of Cross Villag-e. Owing- to its isolated position. 115 Cross Village is little known except in a vague and in- definite way, but this very isolation has been the largest factor in preserving that which gives to Cross Village its peculiar charm and fascination. One may reach Cross Village in three ways : first, an occasional boat may be found by inquiry at hotels, which is going to Cross Village either on an excursion or to carry freight. No boats make regular stops there. Second, a stage leaves Harbor Springs for Cross Village three times a week carrying mail, fare 50 cts. each way. The mail route traverses the shorter road, which, going through the interior, misses the finest scenery. The third and best way is to hire a team and drive to Cross Village, going by the short mail route and returning b}' the shore road via Middle Village. This is the route here described in detail. It may be pleasantly made in a day. By following the sugg'estions offered immedi- ately below, many annoyances can be avoided and the trip much better enjoyed. SuGGEvSTiONS : The general rules for driving in this region, pertain with special emphasis here. 1st: the road is much better after a sharp shower, either the day before or during the night. No fear need be entertained of mud, as the soil is such as to at once absorb the water. After a long continued "dry spell" the road will be found heavy and sandy. 2nd : start early — not later than seven or eight o'clock- — the earlier the better; first, because the roads are better when dampened with the dew ; second, because the air is better for both man and beast ; third, because there is no time when Nature is so lovely as in the early morning, not even twilight ; and fourth, because by starting early it will give you ample time to wander about the village and give your horses ample time to get rested and refreshed for the 116 return journey. 3rd : take your lunch and take plenty of it. You will have a better one than you can g-et at Cross Villag-e, with the added enjoyment of a picnic dinner in some charming- spot en route. 4th : insist up- on g-ood horses. A guide or driver is unnecessary^ provided some one of the party understands driving- reasonably well, but g-ood horses are simply indispens- able. By following- the route detailed below no trouble will be had in finding- the way. Drive gently at first for the journey is long. This trip can be made by bicycle without difficulty, but riders must expect some hard work. To those going- by wheel we recommend the shore road both ways, as the long-er distance is more than made up by the more level road. The watchful rider will avail himself of many footpaths over sandy places. To Cross Village, going by the Mail Route and Returning via Middle Village. Climbing- the steep bluff at Harbor Spring-s by road immediately above the hotel, we follow the telephone line throug-h the little upper villag-e to the outskirts, where the road turns due north which course it follows for four miles over a hilly, sandy and not very attractive road. At this point it makes a sharp turn to the left (west) and shortly, turns north again, then west and finally north to where, hidden in heav}^ woods, stands a little white schoolhouse (6 miles). The romantic situa- tion of this schoolhouse appeals strong-ly to the visitor. The road now leads up a sandy hill leaving the school- house on the left, and through a dense forest whose overarching- trees and varied vistas afford many pictur- esque effects. Later on (8 miles) another school is passed on the rig-ht with saw mill nearly opposite. This point is ten miles from Cross Villag-e. A little further 117 on the road deflects to the east. Here the telephone line leaves the road, and passing- on the other side of a log shantj, it stretches over the fields and through the woods by a short cut, to join the road some miles further on. The road itself g-radually circles eastward and then northward and enters a thick woods with beautiful hills sloping- on either side. Then a descent brings us into a sort of swamp with fine g-roves of hemlock, balsam, spruce and pine. Later a deserted but picturesque old log- cabin is passed on the left, of romantic appearance, and soon we join the telephone once more to be a guide for all the future journey. The road deflects to the left in a short distance at a sharp angle (follow tele- phone) and descending a steep hill, passes a remarkably beautiful maple grove on the right. Then a long, gradual ascent brings us to a point where, straight ahead, the blue water of the lake is seen. With fine glimpses of headlands and the shipping of the straits constantly before us, we reach, two miles. Cross Village. Cross Village. 1. History — The history of Cross Village is crowded with romantic interest, being intimately asso- ciated with some of the most thrilling incidents of pioneer days. It is one of the oldest sites, being con- temporaneous with Mackinac in almost every particular. Before white men reached this country Cross Village was the chief station of a powerful tribe of Indians, the Ottawas, and during pioneer days it was from this place that some of the most important expeditions were formed. Its people were always prominent and power- ful in the counsels of the tribes and it was a place of rendezvous and basis of operations second only in 118 (2) importance to Mackinac itself. The history in detail of these stirring- times is g-iven under the description of Mackinac Island, pag-es 135 to 145, which the reader should consult. We offer here a simple resume of the more important incidents. (1) Cross Villag-e was orig-inallj known as L'Arbre Croche, meaning- "crooked tree" because of a larg-e, crooked hemlock tree which towered above the rest of the forest and made a fine landmark for all passing- mariners. t was the principal villag-e of the Ottawa . Indians from time immemorial. These Indians were, at one time, very powerful, numbering- in 1670, two hundred and lift}' warriors; but the tribe suffered many reverses and after a checkered histor3% was finall}^ absorbed into the g-eneral decay of all the tribes, of which only a melancholy remnant is left. The orig-nal old Indian settlement was on the beach below the bluff about where the saw^ mill now stands. (3) While there is no positive evidence that Marquette ever vis- ited this place, it is hardly credible that during- his many voyag-es back and forth he should have failed to visit so important a station. It is certain that before 1670 a strong- Jesuit station was established here, and that from that time it was one of the most important of the missionary operations. (4) Cross Villag-e was so called because of the hug-e cross first planted there many years ag-o. This custom 119 has been ever since maintained, the Indians reg-ardinjj- it with both civic pride and relig-ious reverence. When one cross rots away a new one is planted to take its place. After the linal cession of this reg-ion to the United States, no special importance attached to this place and, with most of the surrounding- country, its history became insignificant. No records are available down to 1827, when the first cross was planted. The little church now situated immediately behind the cross was built in 1840. Before that time a rude church built of bark was the place of worship. It was situated a few rods south of where the cross stands at the point where so much of the bluff has fallen away. From 1827 to 1855 a succession of estimable priests quietly carried on their work among- the natives, eminent among- whom were Fathers Barrag-a and Pierce. At present priests from Harbor Spring-s have charg-e of this work, now reduced to very small proportions. (5) The year 1855 marked a new epoch in the his- tory of Cross Villag-e. At this time Father Weicamp came to Cross Villag-e and there located his now famous convent, farm and school. The history of this remark- able man is worthy of special notice. John B. Weicamp was born in 1818 in Prussia and emig-rated to America in 1850. A man of imperious and commanding- char- acter, he found the restraint of life in Chicag-o, where he lived for the first five years, unbearable ; while, on the other hand, the freedom and adventure of pioneer life were eminently cong-enial to him. Coming- to this region in 1855, he first located in Harbor Spring's, owning- the point now known as Harbor Point, but later in the same year he settled permanently in Cross Villag-e. Here he lived for almost forty years, and here he died in 1889: His g-rave is in the convent grounds and 120 '3 is described on pag-e 124. Father Weicamp was a man of indomitable energ-y, imperious character and remarkable personality. To build up such an establishment sing-le- handed in so isolated a location, marks a g-enius worthy of a better cause. In its prime, this institution, known technically as the "Benevolent, Charitable & Relig^ious Society of St. Francis," owned two thousand acres of land, maintained a working- force of forty "brothers" and "sisters" — monks and nuns mostly foreigners — and operated an immense farm with larg-e herds of stock tog-ether with saw mill, g-rist mill, carpenter and blacksmith shop, machine shop, besides the relig-ious and educa- tional work of the mission. Almost all the articles used were made on the premises. On the death of Father Wei- camp, Father Anton Baumg-arten became the Superior, but the insti- tution at once fell to pieces. All available articles were sold at auction and even a large part of the convent was torn down. The farm is now let to private parties. 2. Itinerary. The town of Cross Villag-e is located on a bluff, about 100 feet hig-h, overlooking It has one main street, extending from Wm. Shurtliff's store on the south to that of Orville Shurt- liff's on the north, and thence out to the convent. The streets are very narrow, for the most part mere lanes, and the houses quaint in the extreme. The inhabitants are almost entirely Indian and the visitor will find much Lake Michigan 121 that is exceeding-ly interesting-, to note as to their ways of living- in a stroll throug-h the villag-e. The Indians as a class are shy and uncommunicative, but ordinary courtesy will usually be reciprocated. In the center of the main street stands the little Presbyterian Church. Turning- to the west from here, we come to the bluff where a mag-nificent view is to be had. Before us lies the wide expanse of Lake Michig-an; to the north the long- reef of Wau-g-o-schance may be clearly seen, ending- in a beautiful cluster of small islands. Directly west lie the Beavers, the first one counting- from Waug-oschance Sound is Hog- Island ; beyond that. Garden Island ; and then directly opposite Cross Villag-e the larg-e Beaver Island proper. Lying- out from the dock about eig-ht miles, between Cross Villag-e and Beaver Islands, is the little island or shoal called Isle-Aux-Galet with its larg-e lig-hthouse. This means "flat rock island" and is pronounced by the natives, Skilly-g-a-le'e. Passing- northward, the steps leading- to the foot of the bluff, we cross the site of the old bark church long- ag-o destroyed, and come quickly to the g-reat cross. This cross is one of a series of similar crosses which have stood upon this spot since 1827. Immediately behind the cross is the "little church," as it is called in contrast with the larg-er convent church. This church succeeded the old bark church in 1840 and was the only place of worship for many years. After the establish- ment of Father Wiecamp's enterprise, however, services here were discontinued for awhile. Later on. Rev. Father Louis Sifferath became disaffected with the work of Father Weicamp, left the convent, and preached to the Indians in the little church. He was a man of g-reat piety and sweetness of character and much beloved. In 122 1868 he was silenced by the Bishop through the influ- ence of Father Weicamp, ostensibly it is said because he refused to shave his beard ; but he remained in Cross Villag-e until 1883, constantly eng-ag-ed in good works and kindly ministries, perhaps the most valuable of all being- his translation of the Bible into the Indian tong-ue. In 1883 he removed to Kalamazoo and later to Detroit, where he died in 1898. Just opposite the house, which stands next to the little church, may be seen, leaning- ag-ainst a woodshed, (a little difficult to find) a marble tombstone, marking- the g-rave of Felix Sifferath, a brother to Louis. Felix was also a member of Father Weicamp's convent. He went out one evening- to "bring- up" the cows and did not return. Search was instituted and he was found a little later hang-ing- to a tree in the woods, having- com- mitted suicide. Because he thus died Father Weicamp forbid his interment in consecrated ground, and his brother Louis therefore dug with his own hands this grave and lovingly laid therein the body or his unfor- tunate brother. In this connection it is proper to say that at least six of the inmates of the convent are known to have lost their reason and became more or less violently insane. Returning to the main street, we follow it north- ward to the convent, a distance of less than a mile, passing on the east side the new St. Francis' school, a branch of the Indian school at Harbor Springs. Three sisters have charge of this work, which receives $400.00 annually from the Government. It has about fifty scholars. As we reach the end of the long, picturesque street, we see directly ahead of us the conspicuous convent. The illustration on page 114 will show its original 123 appearance. The two larg-e wing's on either side, one on the east for the women and one on the west for the men, have been torn down, only the church proper remaining-. The convent farm is now rented to Mr. Charles Cetas, who lives in one of the building-s and from whom the key to the church ma}^ be obtained. The auditorium is most unique. Its arrang-ement, whereby each part is separated from every other part, yet all in full view of the altar, g-ives a most peculiar effect. Passing- throug-h the auditorium proper with its low, arched ceiling, we ascend to the altar and looking back see the larg-e gallery above the auditorium where the choir assembled. On the right are the lofts for the monks and on the left for the nuns, the altar with its steep steps being be- tween. Many quaint decorations still adorn the walls, and visitors will wish to ling-er many moments in this quaint old place. Passing- through the convent g-rounds, with its numerous buildings on either side, we reach the grave- yard, where a conspicuous little square house marks the the grave of Father Weicamp himself. This grave and chapel were prepared by Father Weicamp for many years before his death and adorned with skulls and other somber decorations. Here he was accustomed to repair daily, and descending into his own grave, sit and medi- tate there for an hour or more. The coffin in which he was buried he had prepared, also, many years before, and he placed it in his cell at the foot of his bed that it might be the last thing he saw at night and the first thing to greet his w^aking vision. His final interment here was with great pomp and ceremony. Those who desire to remain longer in Cross Village will find pleasant accommodations. Many interesting drives and strolls abound. The fishing, basket-making 124 and other occupations of the Indians, are all of g-reat interest. Good bass fishing- is to be found in'' this vicinity. Full and reliable information may be secured from Mr. Wm. Shurtliff, the present postmaster. To Harbor Springs via Middle Village. We return over the same road (follow telephone) for about a mile and a half to the first road g-oing- west. Turning- here we follow the ang-ling- but well traveled road for six miles until the bluff is reached immediately The -Little Church- and Cross at Cross Village. above Middle Village. It is not necessary to descend this bluff, but It IS strong-ly recommended. Descendino- by a steep g-rade to the villag-e, a little cluster of Indian huts and shanties, we pass first the unique postoffice of C^oodhart, and then, one mile south, we reach the villag-e proper and passing- throug-h the main and only street 125 of the villag-e, we drive directly in front of the con- spicious white church, and keeping below the bluff ioWow^ in many places close to the water's edg-e, for fully two miles. Here the road is very narrow, the trees almost touching- in some places, making- a series of most charm- ing- vistas. Climbing- the bluff by an equally steep ascent, the route now becomes one of exceptional beauty and grandeur. The road winds along- the bluff close to the edg-e for miles, passing- en route many exquisite g-roves, and fine precipitous heig-hts Here a roll-way will be noted where logs are rolled down the bluff into the water and there formed into rafts and towed to the mill, Deflecting to the right, the road crosses a sharp ravine, and returning to the bluff again follows it until within five miles of Harbor Springs. Here the shore stretches out far away into the coast. The road, how- ever, still following the bluff with fine view over the tops of the trees, passes through old Indian clearings with their scrawny orchards and comes at last to Emmet Beach, a new and beautiful resort, from thence follow- ing the telephone line to Harbor Springs, our point of departure. 6. Excursions from Petoskey, (I) To Mackinac Island by Rail via Mackinaw City. The main line of the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railway extends from Petoskey to Mackinaw City, its terminus, a distance of thirty-six miles. Excursion trains are run daily from Petoskey to Mackinac Island via Mackinaw City, giving tourists several hours on the Island. Leaving Petoskey the train passes Bay View and Ke-go-mic (see page 101). Then a little later, on the left, the pretty Round Lake where pleasant facilities 126 for a day's outing- may be had. Round Lake is especially commended as a delig-htful and accessible picnic ground for parties of ladies and children. The next stop is Conway (six miles) a little villag-e situated on the edge of Crooked Lake. Fishing- parties often make this their starting- point. Beyond Conway the road follows the shores of Crooked Lake three miles to Oden-Oden. This place is favorabh^ known as a summer resort, hav- ing- two g-ood hotels. Atherton Inn, (now known as Rawdon's, and under new management) is quite unique in its structure. Good bathing- is to be enjoyed here ; all facilities are provided at the bathing- house. One of the chief attractions of Oden is its g-reat flowing- or artesian well, close by the depot, furnishing- an exhaust- less supply of clear cold water from a depth of 200 feet. Oden-Oden is the starting point for steamers of the Inland Route, for which see pag-e 128. Beyond Oden the road follows the lake to the point where it enters Crooked River, and then, with occasional g-limpses of the river, to Alanson, a little town on Crooked River where fishing parties are made up for various resorts on Burt Lake. The road now pushes throug-h a country in which the dense forests are only occasionally relieved by clear- ings and pioneer farms ; passing Brutus, a small village from which Maple River may be reached one and a half miles due east. Maple River is a beautiful forest stream — one of the finest trout fishing- streams in Mich- igan. It can be fished from the bank, although w^ading is much to be preferred. The stream is of g-ood size, and there is but little "tang-le" to annoy. In the early season, May and June, it is best fished from Brutus, but later Pellston furnishes better opportunities as it is farther up stream. 127 From Brutus it is six miles to Pellston, a small hamlet, but headquarters for trout fishing- on Maple River. Five miles east of Pellston — stage meets every train — lies Douglas Lake, an exception all}' beautiful body of water and famous for fishing- (bass and pickerel). "Bryant's" is a pleasant fishing- Inn on the shore of this lake with daily stag-e connections with Pellston. A telephone line is also in course of construction. The next station is Levering, a small village and beyond that Carp Lake, a pretty sheet of water afford- ing good fishing. From this point the road traverses a dense forest almost entirely uninhabited, to Mackinaw City, the terminus. For Mackinaw City see page 152. For Mackinac Island see page 145. *4#nFiBiinni (2) To Mackinac Island by Steamers of the Inland Route. The Inland Route furnishes one of the most inter- esting and beautiful trips. It traverses a long chain of lakes and rivers from Petoskey (train to Oden) to Cheboygan and affords a constant suc- cession of un- i q u e 1 a n d- trip naturally divides itself into three From Petoskey to Topinabee, {b) from Topinabee to Cheboygan, (-) from Cheboygan to Macki- nac Island, any or all of which may be taken as desired. (a) From Petoskey to Topinabee, leaving Petoskey by the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway, on morning train, we arrive (nine miles) at Oden, (see page 127) from which place the steamers start upon the Inland Route scapes. The sections, {a) 128 proper. The course lies to the head of Crooked River, a distance of two miles from Crooked Lake. Entering- Crooked River the experience of its unique navig-ation will be g-reatly enjoyed. It is six miles long- and very crooked, and passing- throug-h dense forests and marshes, presents many striking- vistas. The course bends and twists, now among- tall reeds and g-rasses, now under drooping- trees whose branches often touch the deck of the steamer and whose outlines are mirrored with almost startling- distinctness in the quiet water of the river. At Alanson, see pag-e 127, a unique draw bridg-e is passed, and beyond there opens up about three quarters of a mile of straig-ht channel, this part of the river hav- ing- been dredg-ed out by the State some years ag-o. As if to make up for so long- a straig-ht stretch, the river now bends and turns in ang-les seeming-ly beyond navi- g-ation, the most marked of which are called Devil's Elbow, and Horse Shoe Bend. The little steamers, however, by twisting-, turning-, backing- up and g"oing- forward, make all the turns with remarkable skill, and after passing- a typical homesteader's shanty (every one with a camera takes a snap) the mouth of Crooked River is reached and we enter beautiful Burt Lake. Our course now lies across the lower end of the lake to the head of Indian River, a distance of seven miles. Burt Lake is nearly ten miles long- and averag-es four miles wide. Its shore is quite well settled. Immediately to the north of Crooked River is a considerable point of land where is located the quaint Indian Villag-e, a settle- ment entirely of Indians whose principal industry is making- baskets. Near by is Burt Spring-s (Johnson's Camp). Johnson's, Sag-er's and Voig-htlander's are the principle tishing Inns of Burt Lake. All furnish g-ood 129 accommodations, with boats, guides, etc. At the lower end of Burt Lake is Pittsburg-h Landing-, the summer home of the Arg-onaut Hunting- and Fishing- Club of Pittsburg-h, Pa., with a club house and numerous pri- vate cottag-es. "Natives " We now enter the beautiful Indian River, a stream nearly seven miles long- connecting- Burt Lake with Mullet Lake. Passing- on the left the Columbus Land- ing-, the little town of Indian River on the Michig-an Central R. R., is quickly reached, where the boat stops forty minutes for dinner. Indian River has a popula- tion of 200. The Sturg-eon and Pig-eon Rivers — two famous trout streams — are most easily reached from 130 this point. Leaving- Indian River villag-e, an old abandoned bridg-e trestle is passed and soon Mullet Lake is entered and (two miles) Topinabee, a pretty villag-e on the Michig-an Central R. R. is reached, the end of the first section of our trip. Those who desire to may return from this point the same day to Petoskey ; those g"oing- on will here chang-e steamers. {b) From Topinabee to Cheboyg-an the route now lies along- the whole length of Mullet Lake, a fine body of water ten miles long- and three miles wide with hig-h and finely wooded banks. Good fishing-. At the northern extremity Mullet Lake enters into Cheboyg-an River, where on the left is situated the Cheboyg-an Club House, "The Windmere." Entering the river the steamer picks its way among- log-s and booms, past a larg-e tannery and enters the locks with a short fall to the lake level. On the rig-ht hand lies perhaps the larg-est sawdust pile in the world, being- the immense accumulation of sawdust from the g-reat McArthur saw mills during- the last twenty-five 3'ears. Those who desire may leave the boat at the locks and walk in ten minutes to the center of the town, having- ample time to join the boat ag-ain when it lands at the dock. Cheboyg-an is a busy lumber center of 8000 inhabi- tants. Six g-reat saw mills are now in operation. It has a g-ood harbor and boasts a street car line nearly two miles long-. Cheboyg-an marks the end of the second section of the trip and in fact the end of the "Inland Route'' proper. {c) Cheboyg-an to Mackinac Island. Close connec- tions are made here for Mackinac Island. Starting- from McArthur's dock, the steamer sails slowly out of the river passing- saw mills and g-reat piles of lumber with numerous vessels loading- at the docks. Hence 131 beyond the pier with small lig-ht-house, into Lake Michigan, following- the South Channel between the main land and Bois Blanc (pronounced "Bob-low") Island. The course is nearh^ north to Bois Blanc Island, stopping- at Point Aux Pins (pronounced "Point aw Pang"). Bois Blanc Island is about twelve miles long and six miles wide. It is densely wooded with forests of pine, maple and birch. At the southwest extremity Point Aux Pins resort is beautifully located with good hotel and numerous cottages. On the southeast ex- tremit}^ an important life saving- station is established. Pine bathing, fishing and hunting are to be enjoyed upon the island. From Point Aux Pins to Mackinac Island is about twelve miles. 3 To Bear Lake. Bear Lake lies seven miles south of Petoske}^ on a branch of the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway, suburban trains making the trip several times a day from Petos- key. The lake is very beautiful and so easily accessible as to make it a delightful excursion, especially for ladies and children. A pleasant little steamer makes the circuit of the lake, connecting with all suburban trains. Bear Lake also affords fine fishing and camping facilities, and has many pleasant resorts and inns. PART IV. MACKINAC ISLAND, (I) Introduction. Mackinac Island is far famed. Its beautiful situa- tion, historic associations, unique and picturesque shores and a certain native beauty that is indescribable, unite to make it one of the most charming- spots in America. If there were nothing- other than its picturesque situa- tion, Mackinac would be charming-, but in addition to this its intimate association with one of the most fascinating and romantic periods of American history, makes ever}^ path and heig-ht sug-g-estive of historic lore. In order that the reader may intellig-ently enjoy his visit to this far-famed spot, it will be necessary to nar- rate somewhat in detail the history of Mackinac Island. This history is, therefore, presented here in the form of an Introduction so that the itinerary of the Island (pages 145 to 151) need contain only brief resume's of the points of interest, sufficient for those who are in haste, while those who are desirous of informing- themselves more in detail, with the historical connections, are re- ferred to the various sections of this Introduction. (1) Mackinac Island shows evidence of g-reat ag-e and early inhabitants. The most casual observer can- not but recog-nize the open secret of its g-eologic pecul- iarities, namely, that it was at one time completely submerg-ed by floods of waters, whose rushing- tides and tumultuous attacks it was able to successfully resist, F 135 until at last the water receded leaving- its g-reat archeS' rocks, caves and precipices to tell the tale of that mig-hty strug-g-le. (2) In the far-distant ag-es of antiquity it seems probable that this island was inhabited by aborig-inal tribes whose very names are now lost. It is certain that it was inhabited long- before white men ever reached its shores, and there are traces as well as leg-ends of a his- tory that reaches back into the remotest antiquity. (3) Earliest Exploj'ers — ^In 1534 Cartier discovered the St. Lawrence River and took possession of all the country in the name of Prance, but with no adequate conception of its extent or g-eog-raphy. Slowly the pro- cess of exploration and settlement was achieved, until in 1608 Quebec, and in 1642 Montreal, became the head- quarters of trade and centers of g-overnment and coloni- zation. During- all this time the Indians came on annual visits to trade with the whites, in g-reat numbers and from far and near. Some came from the Great Lakes, even as far as Lake Superior, and told of the wonders of the country where they lived. In 1633, just one hun- dred years after Cartier discovered the St. Lawrence, Jean Nicholet made his famous journey from Montreal to Green Bay, and was beyond all question the first white man to see Mi-chil-im-ak-in-ac, now Mackinac Island. Nicholet was followed b}^ Perrot in 1665, and and later by numerous explorers and Couriers D'bois. (4) Indicui Tribes — At this time there were two g-reat Indian nations, who were sworn foes and eng-ag-ed in constant and deadly warfare. These were the Iroquois who lived in New York and the eastern states and who were afterwards allies of the Kng-lish, and the Algonquins, who lived in Canada and the country of the 136 Great Lakes and were allies of France. The Alg-on- quins were divided into several larg-e tribes and endless smaller ones, the principal being- the Ottawas, Chippe- was and Hurons. Althoug-h all these tribes were united ag-ainst their common foe the Iroquois, yet they had constant difficulties between themselves, and man}^ bloody conflicts and dreadful massacres resulted. (5) Jesuit Missionaries — At this time the first real history beg^ins, with the work of the Jesuit missionaries. These men were sent out from France b}' the Catholic Church to convert the Indians to the Christian faith. They were, for the most part, men of noble character, splendid heroism and g-reat practical intellig^ence. Gaining- from the outset the confidence of the Indians, they became their loved and trusted counselors. They were peacemakers between the tribes, they were in- terpreters between the Indians and whites, they were intrepid and courag-eous explorers and opened up vast reg-ions of unknown land, culminating- in Marquette's immortal journey to the Mississippi River. It is hardly possible to over-estimate the important part which these missionaries played in shaping and controlling- the events of those stirring- times. Among the principal missionaries were Fathers Joques and Raymbault who, in 1642, planted the cross at Sault Ste. Marie. Father Allouez who assisted in establishing- the mission of St. Ig-nace and visited Mackinac in 1669, and pre-eminently Father Marquette, whose remarkable history is further narrated on pag-e 154. (6) The Period of French Possession — From 1534 when Cartier discovered the St. Lawrence River to 176(» when the French surrendered Montreal to the British, this whole reg-ion, at least in name, owned alleg-iance to 137 the French crown. Its history is intimately associated with that of Montreal and early French pioneer life. Being- a natural stopping- place in the g-reat water-way between the St. Law^rence and the Mississippi, it be- came a place of importance and prominence to which its natural advantag-es g-reatly added. For many years it divided with St. Ig-nace the attention of the host of explorers, adventurers, traders, soldiers and colonizers who poured from France into the new world. In 1679 it was visited by the famous "Griffon" ex- pedition under La Salle, that prince of explorers. The Griifon was a ship of about sixty tons burden, built on Lake Erie, near the present site of Buffalo, and the first ship to sail the Great Lakes. Crossing- Lake Erie the Griffon entered Detroit River (all that country was then a wilderness), crossed St. Clair Lake, and passing- throug-h St. Clair River sailed up Lake Huron. After weathering- a furious g"ale, the ship reached Mackinac in safety, whose beauty enraptured even these hardy explorers. The Griffon went on to Green Bay and was later sent back to Niag-ara by La Salle, w^ho continued his journey of discovery in small boats. Hut the Griffon was never heard from afterwards, being-, doubtless, foundered in Lake Huron. In 1695 Cadillac was placed in command of French interests in this reg-ion. He determined upon moving- the principal post to the Detroit River and did so in 1701. This resulted in a g-eneral mig-ration of the Indians to Detroit and the practical abandonment of the settlements at Mackinac and St. Ig-nace. In 1706 the discourag-ed missionaries burned their station at St. Ig-nace and returned to Montreal. But a little later Father Marest renewed the enterprise and in 1714 the French fort was re-established, thoug-h in a small way. It may have been at this time that the fort was removed to the main land upon a site near the present villag-e of Mackinaw City, althoug-h that is uncertain. But in this desultory w^ay these settlements were continued un- til 1760, when the whole country passed forever out of the hands of the French to become a part of the British possessions in America. (7) The Period of British Possession — With the surrender of Montreal in 1760 the Mackinac reg-ion be- came a part of British possessions in America, and so remained until after the Revolutionary war (1795). On g-aining- possession, the Eng-lish were peremptory, arrog-ant and unyielding-. They made no effort to win the reg-ard of the Indians, treating them with haug-hty indifference. This was in g-reat contrast to the g-enial conduct of the French, who not only continually asso- ciated with the Indians, but freely intermarried among- them. The result was a succession of encounters be- tween the English and Indians ending often in blood- shed, and daily increasing the enmit}^ between them. The French people, many of whom remained, lost no opportunity to fan these fires of hatred. It was during this time (in 1761) that Alexander Henry, a daring English trader, made his first and thrilling visit to Mackinac and became an eye-witness to the awful massacre at the old fort at Mackinaw City. In 1763 the Pontiac Conspiracy was formed. It was nothing less than a concerted attack by all the Indians upon all Englishmen. It was to reach from Detroit to the utmost frontier, and its design and execu- tion indicate extraordinary courage and large military genius. Pontiac, a daring chief, full of revenge for wrongs real or imaginary against his tribe, was the originator of the conspiracy. On the 4th of June the massacre occurred. Bv a preconcerted plan, the Indians, 139 while playing- a g-ame of ball (bag--g-at-i-way) knocked a ball inside the fort. Captain Ethering-ton and other watching" the g-ame, moment the ball officers were invited g-uests, and were completely oif their g-uard. The entered the fort a sig-nal of attack was g-iven and the massacre occurred. One officer and fifteen men were killed. The others, after many thrilling experiences, made their escape, finally reaching- Montreal. After the massacre the old fort was inhabited only by Indians and occasional traders for several years. Later on a detachment of troops ag-ain took possession of this fort which, in 1780, was removed from Mackinaw City to Mackinac Island once more. - ". At this time the old block house now standing-, was built, the fort was g-radu- ally enlarg-ed and strengthened and the beg^innings of a per- manent settlement were made. In 1783 the Northwest Fur Co. (British) was es- tablished, to be succeeded later (1811) by the Amer- ican Fur Co. under John Jacob Astor. After the victory of the United States over Great Britain, this region passed from British possession but was not actually given up b}^ the English until 1795. ^ "*# 140 (8) Period of American Possession — Althoug-h as a result of victories gained elsewhere, Mackinac Island came peacably unto the possession of the United States, it was not destined to remain there without a strug-g-le. In 1783, by the treaty of Paris, Mackinac became a part of the United States, but recognizing- its importance and loathe to give it up, by one pretext or another the British retained possession until 1795, when their forces retired to St. Joseph's Island in the Sault Ste. Marie River. After the American occupation of Fort Mackinac the life of the Island went on much as before, the chief events of interest being the annual arrival and depar- ture of the hunters, traders, Indians and troops. When war was declared in 1812 the British at once undertook to recapture Fort Mackinac. Accordingly, a force of 306 whites and 718 Indians started from the fort at St. Joseph's Island for this purpose. The American forces under command of Lieutenant Porter Hanks amounted to only 57 effective men, and as a massacre by the In- dians of men, women and children upon the slightest show of resistance was sure to occur, the fort was sur- rendered without the firing of a single gun on July 7th, 1812. From this time to 1815 (the close of the war) the Island and fort were once again in the possession of the British. They immediately strengthened the existing fortifications and built upon the high eminence a new redoubt which they called Fort George in honor of the reigning king, but which was later known as Fort Holmes in honor of Lieut. Holmes who fell bravely in the battle of 1814. In 1814 an attempt was made by the Americans, flushed by the splendid victories of Commodore Perry, to recapture Fort Mackinac. The history of that 141 expedition does not, apparently, reflect great credit upon the military abili-ty or sag-acity of the Americans. Starting- out July 3d, 1814, with two sloops of war, four schooners and a force of 750 officers and men, instead of attacking- Fort Mackinac at once the company was divided. Part went to St. Joseph's Island and destroyed the British fortifications there, part went to Sault Ste. Marie on an unsuccessful expedition for the destruction of British food supplies stored there, and it was not until July 26th that the fleet arrived off Mackinac Island. This delay had g-iven the British ample time to streng-then their fortifications, and especially to arouse and arm their Indian allies. After various in- effective maneuvers it was determined to make a landing upon the site known as the British Landing-, and con- duct from there a land attack. This was done on the 4th of Aug-ust, 1814. Meanwhile, the British, having- streng-thened their position by great earthworks, occu- pied the fort, filling- the woods with Indians. A brave attempt was made by the Americans and valliant fig-ht offered, but under such condi- tions as to make noth- ing- possible but defeat — this with the loss of the brave and beloved Major Holmes and twelve privates killed, with twelve officers and thirty-nine privates wounded. After the battle a sieg-e was instituted and a block- ade established, and quantities of British supplies were destroyed. But ag-ain disaster followed the Americans. 142 The Tigress and Scorpion, two sloops of war, were both captured by the British and the ill-fated expedition was completely broken up. When in 1815, by the treaty of Ghent, peace was declared, Mackinac was a^ain peace- ably returned, to take its place among- American possessions. From that time it was continued as a Government post until 1876, when it became a National Park; and later, in 1895, a Michig-an state park. Such is, in brief, the romantic history of "the Fairy Island." 2, Mackinac Island 1. History — The history of Mackinac Island has been told in detail in the Introduction immediately pre- ceding- this chapter. It may be divided into six periods. First, that of aborig-inal inhabitants. Second, that of early explorers and missionaries, among- whom the most famous were Jean Nicholet 1634, Nicholas Perrot 1665, Father Allouez 1669, Father Dablon 1669, Father Mar- quette 1671, Father Joliet 1673. Third, period of French possession, from 1534 until 1761, whose famous charac- ters were La Salle, De Tonty, Cadillac and Father Charlevoix. Fourth, period of British possession, from 1761 to 1795, during- which time the awful massacre of the Pontiac Conspiracy at old Mackinac, near the present Mackinaw City on the main land, occurred. Fifth, period of American possession, from 1795 to the present time. bVom 1812 to 1815 the Island was recap- tured and held by the British, during- which time occurred the eng-ag-ement on Early's Farm. Sixth, the fort eventually became a national park and later (1895) a state park under the control of a state board appointed by the Governor. 2. Itinerary — The attractions of Mackinac Island 145 are numerous, varied and widely scattered. They may be grouped as follows : First, places of scenic interest; second, places of historic interest; third, places of social or resort interest. In visiting- the island time is a con- siderable factor and the method of transportation used. All these conditions unite to make the construction of a single itinerary impossible. We therefore suggest several routes which may be combined to suit the tastes and convenience of the reader. Route I. The Village and Resorts of Mackinac. Time, (minimum) : For pedestrians, 1>2 hours. By carriage or bicycle, >i hour. Leaving the dock, we proceed to the main street (one-half block) and turning to the left, passing stores, bazaars, etc., proceed for one block, hence to the right one block to the John Jacob Astor house; a part of the present hotel constitutes the old fur-trading head- quarters of the American Fur Co. This establishment was bought out by John Jacob Astor, then a young man, from the Northwestern Fur Co. (British) in 1811. It was for many years the center of an immense fur trade and the scene of many thrilling and picturesque inci- dents in pioneer life. Its checkered career closed in 1842. Continuing our journey southward (to the left) it is a ten minutes walk to the large, beautiful and magnifi- cently located Grand Hotel, from whence splendid views are had on every side. Thence, back of the hotel, along the bluff, are rows of beautiful summer cottages, man}^ of them of costly construction. The journey may be continued to Lover's Leap (about one mile). Lover's Leap, a large rock of pyramidal form, standing out precipitously from the bluff. Its legend is 146 that the beautiful daug-hter of an Indian chief fell in love with a young- Indian of humble birth. The savag-e old chief demanded of him some deed of bravery and daring- worthy of such a bride. The young- man imme- diately org-anized an expedition ag-ainst some enemies of his tribe, and after fig-hting- with g-reat bravery, perished on the field of battle. The maiden pined in sorrow over the death of her lover, and at last leaped to her death from this rock after his death she was wont to sit melancholy and heartbroken. Descending- at this point by a steep staircase to the shore, we reach the beautiful boulevard (which skirts the shore for three miles to British Landing-) and return by this boulevard to the town, passing- en route the Devil's Kitchen, a peculiar cave-like hole in a great rock made by the action of water, tog-ether with other curious rock formations. Thence back to town, a distance of about one mile. If this route is taken b}^ carriag-e it will, of course, be necessary to return from Lover's Leap to the Grand Hotel and then proceed along- the boulevard to the Devil's Kitchen. Those who are limited for time will find it best to g-o no farther than Lover's Leap on the boulevard, but returning- from that point to town, pro- ceed at once on Route 2. Route 2. Including the Fort, Sugar Loaf Arched Rock, and Robertson's Folly. Time, (minimum): For pedestrians, 2 hours. By carriag-e or bicycle, 1 hour. Leaving- the dock, we turn up the main street to the rig-ht for one block, then climbing- the steep bluff we approach Fort Mackinac on the rig-ht. A short way up the hill there is a long staircase by which pedestrians 147 may ascend to the old block house. Those who drive will stop at the first g'ate, and on entering- will do well to proceed at once to the old block house, where our itinerary commences. Port Mackinac. The old block house was built in 1780 and is a part of the oldest structure of the Fort (see pag-e 140). Passing along- the upper path, we notice to the left two officer's houses built in 1876, and further on the old flag- stand with another g-roup of officers' houses erected in 1835. Descending- the steps on the rig-ht, we come into the barracks and at once pass a quaint old stone building- which was the officers' headquarters in 148 1780. The wooden building- on the rig-ht was the hospi- tal, and along- the square are located man}^ buildings, both old and new, used for various barrack purposes. Continuing- to the left to the corner of the Fort, we come out upon the old parapet where a mag-nificent view is obtained. The little island with the lighthouse immediately in front, is Round Island with its old Indian burying- ground. Returning to the center of the Fort, we come out by the south sally-port into the parade grounds, now a common and ball ground. Here those driving re-enter their carriages and we continue the journey. Passing out of the Fort by the old brick powder magazine, we turn a little to the left, and thence turn- ing to the right at almost right-angles (signboard marked "Sugar Loaf") we follow the beautiful road through lovely native forests, keeping to the left to (about one mile) Sugar Loaf rock. This is a huge pyramidal rock towering nearly 140 feet above the ground. It presents a singularly striking appearance, both on account of its size and isolation. It is the result of the action of water and a good illustration of the well-nigh resistless floods which once washed these shores. Continuing around Sugar Loaf rock, the road curves back through beautiful woods about three-fourths of a mile, where we turn to the left almost at right-angles, and soon reach the far-famed Arched Rock. Arched Rock — This strange and picturesque for- mation is one of the chief attractions of Mackinac Island. The formation of the arch has evidently been caused by the wearing away of the rock through vari- ous denuding forces during long geological periods. At present the columns supporting the arch on the north side are comparatively small and weak, and the strength 149 of the arch itself is so uncertain that the crossing- is dang-erous and forbidden. The arch stands 149 feet above the level of the lake and presents a most striking- and picturesque appearance from any point of view. Robertson's Folly — Returning- to the main road, the journey may be continued at once to the bluff, over- looking- the town at Robertson's Folly, a precipitous cliif. It was over this cliff, the leg-end says, that a young- English officer leaped in mad infatuation over a beautiful but phantom maiden. The return is quickly made, with beautiful views, passing- the handsome cottag-es of East End, to the town. Route 3. Early's Farm— British Landing. Time, (minimum): For pedestrians, 3 hours. By carriag-e or bicycle, iy2 hours. While this trip is very interesting- and beautiful, it may be omitted by those whose time is limited without any real loss. Its chief interest centers in the historic associations of the battlefield of 1814. Passing- out of the old fort by the brick powder mag-azine, follow the left road, passing-, in a short time, the old cemeteries, the catholic on the left, the military and protestant on the rig-ht. Just before reaching- the cemeteries we pass Skull Cave, a deep hole in the base of a gTeat rock, the place where Alexander Henry, the intrepid British fur trader, lay in hiding- for many days after the massacre of Pontiac's conspiracy at old Fort Mackinac, and which he found full of human bones and skulls. Beyond the cemeteries we cross another road (lead- ing- to the Grand Hotel) at rig-ht ang-les, and soon come in sig-ht of the Early Farms. To the left in the clearing- is the site of the battlefield. The earthwork ridg-es are easily noted as we cross them. To the rig-ht in the 150 front yard of the first farm house is a pile of stones, and among- the stones may be seen many relics of this battle, among- them three eig-hteen-pound cannon balls fired from the British g-uns. See pag-e 141. Beyond the battlefield the road sweeps on across the Island to the British Landing-, and from there the return journey may be made along- the shore by the fine boulevard to town. There are many other points of minor attraction on Mackinac Island. These will naturally come to the attention of the visitor who remains on the Island for any leng-th of time. To those whose stay is short, how- ever, even their enumeration would be confusing- rather than helpful. The routes outlined above are arrang-ed to cover all the chief points of interest in the most feasible way and shortest time. Those who have more time at their disposal can, of course, make these itiner- aries more leisurely and expand them indefinitely. 151 3, Nearer Environs of Mackinac, 1. Mackinac City — A little villag-e chiefly im- portant as a railroad terminus. The Grand Rapids & Indiana and Michig-an Central R. R. have a union depot here and connect, by means of immense ferry steamers, the St. Ig-nace and St. Marie, with the Duluth, South Shore & Atlantic Railway- at St. Ig-nace. These boats are worthy of special notice. They carr^' a train of sixteen cars at once and are so constructed as to crush their passag-e throug-h the thickest ice with ease, thus continuing- the service without interruption summer and winter. See cut page 156. 152 Mackinaw City is a small villag-e situated upon the most northerly point of the lower peninsula. Visitors will keep in mind, however, that the railroad dock faces not north, but almost due east. Looking out from the dock the mainland stretches in a pretty bay on the rig-ht hand side. Directly in front and distant about eight miles, lies Bois Blanc (pronounced "Bob-low"') Island. A little beyond, to the north, lies Mackinac Island with Round Island between. Beyond this an immense round lighthouse will be seen standing in an isolated position upon one of the smaller islands of St. Martin's Bay. While to the left hand, due north, lies St. Ignace and the upper peninsula. If time permits, a stroll through Mackinaw City will be interesting. Crossing the Grand Rapids & Indiana tracks, the visitor should pass the little M. E. Church, and follow west- ward along the shore to the lighthouse, a distance of about two miles. At this point the narrowest passage of the straits is reached and an imposing view of pass- ing shipage enjoyed. The distance to the opposite shore is four miles. Here, too, is the site of the old Fort Mackinac where the massacre of Pontiac's Con- spiracy occured in 1763 (see page 139). 2. St. Ignace — An interesting cit}- known in native parlance as "Shoestring town" because it con- sists almost entirely of one long street extending for four miles along the shore. At the most southern point is the old Martell blast furnace for reducing iron ore to pig iron, but not now in operation. Man}' beautiful drives can be had about St. Ignace, the roads being especially fine. From St. Ignace to Rabbit's Back, a bold blulf up the shore, north from St. Ignace (4 miles), much of the scener}" vies with that of Mackinac Island. And another 153 fine drive is across the point to the Lake Michig-an shore and thence west along- the shore road indefinitely, passing- (at 4 miles) the imposing- Eag-le's Nest rock which is almost the counterpart and fully the equal of Sug-ar Loaf on Mackinac Island. The roads about St. Ig-nace are specially attractive for bicyclers and a few days stay will well repay the visitor. St. Ig-nace was settled by the Indians even earlier than Mackinac Island. It was always a favorite rendez- vous for Indians and traders, and was the site of the The Eagle's Nest Rock, St. Ignace. Jesuit mission begun in 1671. It is especially note- worthy as the home of Father Marquette, and here, years later, his body was borne in state for final burial. The g-rave of Father Marquette may be found by walk- ing- to the far (north) end of town where, on a side 1=^4 street, about half a block to the left, may be seen the modest shaft which marks this g-reat man's resting- place, surrounded by a plain white picket fence. James Marquette was born in Picardy, France, in 1637. He came to St. Ignace in 1668 and founded the St. Ig-natius mission. His "Relations" — reports sent to Jesuit headquarters at Paris — form a priceless history of these early times. For four years Marquette conducted this mission, traveling- from St. Ig-nace to Sault Ste. Marie and winning- everywhere the love and confidence of all, especially the Indians. In 1672 he received, to his g-reat joy, a commission from the French Govern- ment of Canada to accompany Father Joliet on the voyag-e of discovery to the Mississippi River. He started on the 17th of May, 1673, and paddling in birch-bark canoes across Lake Michigan to the foot of Green Bay, the party entered the P^ox River, reached the portage, then traveled across Wisconsin for fifty miles to the Wisconsin River which they followed nearly one hun- dred miles and reached its mouth, where it enters the Mississippi at a point just below Prairie du Chien on the I7th of June — just one month later. They explored the Mississippi to a point below the mouth of the Arkansas River, a distance of nearly a thousand miles, and returned by way of the Illinois River to Lake Mich- igan, hence northward to Green Bay again which they reached in September of the same year. In 1674 Marquette sailed once more to the foot of Lake Michigan (Chicago) and in May, 1675, conscious that his strength was failing fast, he determind to return to his old home at St. Ignace to die. He was able to get only as far as a little stream near Sleeping Bear Point now known as Pierre Marquette River, where he became so feeble that he could travel no more. 155 Tender!}' tlie Indians lifted him from the canoe and placed him in a hastily prepared wig-wam. Here, in a few hours, he. died, and here his sorrowing- companions buried him. Two years later an imposing- array of thirty canoes set forth to that lonely g-rave and, disin- terring the beloved remains, they broug-ht them back in high state to his old home at St. Ig-nace where, on June 9th, 1677, they were buried in the old mission church. This church was afterwards (1706) burned, bu^ many years later (1877) the foundations of the old church were discovered and beneath them the remains of Marquette. The present monument was erected upon this sacred and historic spot, the site of the old church, July 7th, 1895. 3. Lks Cheneau (familiarly known as "The Snows")^ — A beautiful g-roup of over one hundred islands lying- between Mackinac Island and Detour, fourteen miles from Mackinac Island. Steamers run daily from St. Ig-nace and the Island to the Snows. A journey throug-h this exquisite archipelag-o is most beautiful, with its maze of winding- channels. Numerous beauti- ful resorts have been established en route and the fish- ing- is exceptionally fine. 156 4. From Mackinac Island to Sault Ste, Marie. By Steamer via the Sault Ste. Marie River. One of the most interesting- and beautiful trips in Northern Michig-an. The scenery of the "Soo" River rivals much of the scenery of the Hudson River, while the peculiarities of its navig-ation afford constant, absorb- ing-, interest. The river is the connecting hig-hway for the enormous shipping- of Lake Super- ior and millions of dollars have been spent by the Government in the per- fection and annual maintenance of its navig-ation. Added to the natural ^eaut}" of its shores is the imposing- proces- sion of ships of all descriptions that are passed en route. Leaving- Mackinac Island, the steamer skirts the southeast- ern corner of the Island, affording- line views of the villag-e, Robertson's Folly and the whole north- east shore. The course is almost due east (in nautical parlance east one-half north) to Detour, a distance of 40 miles. The little island opposite Mack- inac, with its pretty lig-hthouse, is Round Island an old and favorite rendezvous of the Indians, where is located an interesting- old Indian burying- g-round. The long- island, which mig-ht easily be mistaken for a part of the 157 mainland to the rig-ht, beyond Round Island is Bois Blanc (pronounced "Bob-blow") Island and we follow in sig-ht of its shores for sixteen miles, while away to the left lies the mainland of the upper peninsula with the beautiful archipelago of Les Cheneau Islands ("Snows") between. After passing- the further point of Bois Blanc Island, the great lig-hthouse of Spectacle Reef appears to the rig-ht in the distance. This very dang-erous reef is one mile long- and three-eig-hts of a mile wide, run- ing- due east and west with an averag-e shoal depth of two feet. The lig-hthouse is one of the first order and has a white lig-ht varied by a red flash. The ship soon rounds Detour Point with its tall white lig-hthouse, and enters the mouth of the "Soo" river, passing- a g-reat iron buoy with larg-e, arched framework above. This is known as a g-as buoy. There are four of them in the river. They are charg-ed with illuminating- g-as suffici- ent to burn for eig-ht months, the reg-ular navig-ation season, and have a lig-ht which burns continuously day and nig-ht. The light is equipped with a perfect and ing-enius machinery whereby it becomes a flash-lig-ht, burning- for ten seconds out of every minute, with an in- termission of fifty seconds. As we reach Detour we pass close to a little island known as Fr3'ing--pan Island, upon which is built a small range light. The Arnold line of steamers stops at this quaint little town of Detour with its four great docks, but other steamers make no stops on the river. Approaching Detour the entrance to the river presents an imposing sight. Before us lies a bewilder- ing archipelago of beautiful islands, large and small,, whose channels stretch away into the far distance. To the right is the large Drummond's Island, the site of an 158 old Mormon settlement. Immediately ahead is Pipe Island, and be3'Ond that the long- and narrow Lime Island, while in the further distance the high hills of St. Joseph's Island (Canada) afford a conspicuous land- mark. The numerous other islands are not named. Leaving- Detour, the course leads past Pipe Island, with a lighthouse, and deflects a little westward to round Lime Island, whose bank it closely skirts, passing in time the pretty resort of Lime Island Club (Daven- port's). We now pass between Lime Island on the right and a smaller island on the left, and And the highlands of St. Joseph Island dead ahead. St. Joseph's Island is the largest in the river and belongs to Canada. It was to this island that the British troops retreated on the evacuation of Fort Mackinac in 1795, and from this island the British expedition started to recapture Fort Mackinac in 1812. The steamer follows the coast of St. Joseph's for its entire length, when turning sharply eastward at the southern end of Nebish, it passes into a narrow channel with Sailors' Encampment on the right (so called be- cause here, many years ago, a schooner's crew found themselves ice-bound and were obliged to encamp here for the whole winter). At this point the channel grows very narrow, and as we round the edge of Nebish Island, an Indian word meaning "maple leaf," a little house may be seen close to the shore with a flag-pole on the point. This is the headquarters of the Government "River-Patrol," con- sisting of a guard of four men and one officer, detailed by the United States Navy to patrol the river princi- pally to enforce the rule of navig-ation requiring that boats shall not travel faster than nine miles an hour while in the narrower channels. A heavy fine is im- 159 posed upon any vessel disobeying- this rule and the g-uard are constantly, thoug-h secretly, on the watch to see that it is not disobeyed. From the fla^-pole may be sometimes seen hang-ing- a larg-e white ball, which indi- cates that a steamer is approaching- around the bend in the opposite direction. From this point many and various buoys will be noted, a description of which may be interesting-. The stick buoys are tall spars, those painted red marking the starboard or rig-ht side of the channel, those painted black the port or left side. Those with alternate red and black ring-s indicate g-ood water on either side. Larg-e wooden rang-es, diamond shape and painted white, will be noticed on the shores. The g-as bouys have already been mentioned. Other lig-hts, rang-es, etc. will easily indicate for themselves their use. Continuing- throug-h the narrow channel, the head of St. Joseph's Island is soon reached, around which there swings to the right the Canadian channel from Georgian Bay. Ahead lies the old Sugar Island channel which, up to five years ago, was the regular course of all steamers. Now vessels usually turn to the left and enter the narrow and interesting Hay Lake channel. This lies between Sugar Island and Nebish. It is very narrow and the current is very swift, breaking in several places into rapids. The artificial channel was cut out of the solid rock sixteen feet deep and built up with big dikes on the right, at an expense to the Government of more than three million dollars. It took nearly twelve years to complete the task, and even now dredges will be found at work at the finishing touches. This chan- nel has been in use for five seasons and saves a distance of twelve miles between Detour and Sault Ste. Marie. Beyond Hay Lake channel the steamer enters the 160 long-, narrow Ha}^ Lake, and following- the shores of Sug-ar Island, a long- narrow island lying- at the head of the river, it reaches, at the far end, the channel which narrows down to the dimensions of a canal and is very picturesque. Beyond this it broadens out into a consid- erable lake, and with a sharp turn westward sweeps up to the rapids with a fine approach to the two cities of Sault Ste. Marie, Canadian and American, Ivinof on either side. Wreck of the "Mark Hopkins" in Hay Lakh Ciiannkl 161 Sault Ste, Marie, 1. History — The history of Sault Ste. Marie is intimately connected with earh^ Indian pioneer life in this country, a narrative of which will be found in the Introduction of this Part. In addition it may be noted of Sault Ste. Marie that the early fishing and camping- grounds were along the rapids. It was first claimed by the French in 1641. In that year a Jesuit mission station was established under Raymbault and Joques. In 1671 occurred a great pageant — a gathering of all tribes and peoples to acknowledge allegience to the King of France. This was done with great pomp and ceremony. The original copy of the Process-Verbal used in this ceremony is found in the Jesuit "Relations" of 1671. We reprint it here as affording a vivid glimpse of these stirring and picturesque pioneer times. PROCESS- VERBAL. "Simon Francois Dumont, esquire, Sieur de Saint Lussou, commissioned subdeleg-ate of Monseig^neur, thelntendant of New France. . . . "In accordance with the orders we have received from Monseigneur, the Intendant of New France, the 3d of last July.... to immediately proceed to the country of the Indian Outaouais, Nez-percez, Illinois, and other nations, discovered and to be discovered, in North America, in the region of Lake Superior or Mer-Donce (Huron), to make there search and dis- covery of mines of all sorts, especially of copper, ordering us moreover to take possession in the name of the king of all the country, inhabited or not inhabited, through which we may pass.... We, in virtue of our commission, have made our first disembarkment at the village or burg of Sainte Marie du Sault, the place where the Rev. Jesuit Fathers make their mission, and where the Indian tribes, called Achipoes, Malamechs, Noguets, and others, make their actual abode. We have convoked there 163 as many other tribes as it was in our power to assemble, and they met there to the number of fourteen tribes, namely the Achipoes, Malatnechs, Noguets, Banabeoueks, Makomiteks, Poulteatemis, Oumaloumines, Sassaouacottons, dwelling- at the Bay called that of the Puants (Green Bay), and who have taken it upon themselves to make it (treaty) known to their neig^hbors, who are the Illinois, Mascouttins, Outagamis, and other nations; also the Christinos, Assinipouals, Aumossomiks, Outaouais- Couscottons, Niscaks, Maskwikoukiaks, all of them inhabiting- the countries of the North and near the sea, who have charged themselves with making- it known to their neighbors, who are believed to be in great numbers dwelling near the shores of the same sea. We have caused this, our said commission, to be read to them in the presence of the Rev. Fathers of the Society of Jesus, and of all the Frenchmen named below, and have had it interpreted by Nicholas Perrot, interpreter of His Majesty in this matter, in order that they may not be able (to claim) to be ignorant of it Having then caused a cross to be erected to pro- duce there the fruits of Christianity, and near it a cedar pole, to which we have attached the arms of France, saying three times with a loud voice and public proclamation, that IN THE NAME OF THE MOST HIGH, MOST POWERFUL, AND MOST REDOUBTABLE MONARCH, LOUIS XIV. OF NAME, MOST CHRISTIAN KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, we take possession of said place, Sainte Marie du Sault. as also of the Lakes Huron and Superior, the Island of Caientation (Manilou- line), and of all other lands, rivers, lakes and streams contiguous to and adjacent here, as well discovered as to be discovered, which are bounded on the one side by the seas of the North and West, and on the other side by the sea of the South, in its whole length or depth, taking up at each of the said three proclamations a sod of earth, crying 'Vive le Roy !' and causing the same to be cried by the whole assembly, as well French as Indians, declar- ing to the said nations aforesaid and hereafter that from hence- forth they were to be proteges (subjects) of His Majesty, subject to obey his laws and follow his customs, promising them all pro- tection and succor on his part against the incursion and invasion of their enemies, declaring to all other potentates, sovereign princes, as well States as Republics, to them or their subjects, that they neither can nor shall seize upon or dwell in any place of this country, unless with the good pleasure of his said most 164 Christian Majesty, and of him wlio shall g-overn the land in his name, under penalt^^ of incurring- his hatred and the efforts of his arms. And that none may ])retend ignorance of this tran- saction, we have now attached on the reverse side of the arms of France our Process-Verbal of the taking- possession, sig^ned by ourselves and the persons below named, who were all present. ' Done at Sainte Marie du Sault, the 14th day of June, in the the year of g-race 1671. "Daumont de Saint Lusson." (Then follow the sig-nature of the witnesses ) In 1750 the first fort was built to prevent the Indians of Lake Superior from intercourse with the British settlements of New York and the east. In 1762 the British took peaceable possession of the fort, and only reluctantly relinquished their claim upon it after the Revolutionary War. As late as 1820 Gov. Cass, of Michigan, found a British flag- still floating on the Amer- ican side, and it was against the angry protests of the inhabitants that he pulled it down and replaced it with an American flag. 2. Itinerary — Sault Ste. Marie, meaning "Falls of St. Marie," and usually called "The Soo,"' is a pleasant city having, in 1894, a population of 7244. The princi- pal points of interest to the tourist are Fort Brady, the Locks and the Rapids. A stroll through the city and visit to the quaint little Canadian "Soo" across the river (ferryboat once an hour) should, of course, be added. Fort Brady, situated above the locks on a beautiful eminence about half a mile to the west, is quite exten- sive in its appointments and will be a point of great interest to the visitor. The ceremony of raising the flag at sunrise and lowering it at sunset will be found of special interest. The Canal and Locks. This imposing piece of 165 eng-itieering- skill commands more than passing- interest. As early as 1838 an appropriation was made by the State of Michig-an for a ship canal and work was beg-un. The General Government, however, interfered, consider- ing- the undertaking- an infring-ement upon the rig-hts of the United States. In 1852 an Act was passed appro- priating- 750,000 acres of land for this enterprise, and in 1853 the work was beg-un. The locks, two in number. were constructed 350 feet long, 70 feet wide with a draft of 12 feet. The canal was opened May 21st, 1855, hav- ing- cost one million dollars. In 1881 a new United States Government lock was completed taking- the place of the old state locks, the first of which was built 515 feet long, 80 feet wide, (60 feet at the gates) with a 166 draft of lb feet, while the second lock, only recently completed, is 800 feet long- and 100 feet wide. The total depth of the canal is 43 feet, and the locks have a lift of 18 feet and take eleven minutes to fill or empty. The total cost of this immense structure was more than seven million dollars. The annual tonnag-e throug-h the Soo canal exceeds that of the Suez canal by nearly two million tons. In 1890 the tonnag-e passing- throug-h this canal was eig-ht and a half millions, the value of its freight being- estimated at over one hundred and two million dollars. The Rapids. The fall from Lake Superior to Lake Huron is twenty feet, the fall of St. Marie's rapids eig-hteen feet. One of the most exciting- experiences to the visitor is to "shoot" these rapids in an Indian canoe. There is not the least dang-er in this adventure and it affords an experience never to be forg-otten. Arrang-e- ments for this trip should be made at the hotels. In the rapids the Indians are constantly fishing- and it is fas- cinating- to watch them at their work. 167 ROUND TRIP RATES FOR SUMMER OF 1898. Tourist tickets to all Northern Michig-an resorts are on sale at all coupon ticket offices, June 1st to September 30th, g-ood returning- until October 31st. Stop off is allowed on these tickets at all points, subject to conditions pertaining- on roads issuing- tickets. Rates from principal places are g-iven below. Further information and rates from other points may be had on application to ticket agents. These rates are approximate and are subject to change. Bagg-ag-e to the extent of one hundred and fifty (150) pounds will be checked free on full fare, and seventj'-five (75) pounds on half-fare (children's) tickets. STATIONS Battle Creek Mich . Buffalo N. Y. Cairo 111. Chattanoog-a Tenn. Chicago (all rail) 111. Chicago (viaGoodrichlineandG'dHVen; "■ -"■■C hicag-o ( Circle tour) " Cincinnati Ohio. Cleveland " Cleveland (via D. & C. and Detroit) . . " Columbus '* Dayton " Detroit Mich . Fort Wa3me Ind . Grand Rapids .Mich . Hannibal Mo. Indianapolis Ind . J ackson Mich . Lansing "■ Lexington Ky . Louisville "' Memphis Tenn. Mobile Ala. Montgomery " New Orleans La . Pittsburg Pa . South Bend Ind. Springfield Ill . Springfield Ohio. St . Louis Mo. Terre Haute Ind . Toledo Ohio. Wheeling W. Va. $12 55 22 05 32 25 34 25 17 25 15 85 13 65 20 25 18 65 16 10 19 35 19 35 12 60 15 75 10 00 28 05 20 25 12 55 11 45 24 25 24 00 38 95 47 25 45 25 50 25 25 55 14 30 25 00 19 35 25 50 20 25 14 35 24 35 O O "* Z W M O K. K 'x as 9 ^ Sw O O >r, Y-i « M g,K « K U < < < " O SIO 40 21 25 30 10 32 25 15 10 13 70 12 05 18 25 17 25 15 35 18 35 18 25 11 85 13 55 7 90 25 90 18 25 11 60 9 55 22 25 22 00 36 80 45 10 43 25 48 10 24 55 12 15 23 65 18 25 24 40 19 50 12 95 23 35 H > W < CUM $10 15 21 00 29 85 32 00 14 85 13 45 12 05 18 00 17 00 15 10 18 10 18 00 11 60 13 30 7 65 25 65 18 00 11 35 9 30 22 00 21 75 36 55 44 85 43 00 47 85 24 30 11 90 23 40 18 00 24 15 19 25 12 70 23 10 $ 8 35 19 95 28 05 31 00 13 05 11 25 12 05 17 00 15 35 13 25 16 25 16 25 9 75 11 50 5 80 23 85 16 15 9 55 7 45 21 00 20 65 34 75 43 05 42 00 46 05 22 45 10 10 21 60 16 25 23 65 18 10 11 05 21 25 Omena $1.25 more than Traverse City. Neahtavvanta 40 cents more than Traverse City. *V^ia steamship Manitou in one direction, other direction by rail. 168 HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES, HOTEL AND MANAGER HAY VIEW Bay View House C. W. Childs Howard J W. Howard Cottag-es M. V. Brown Cottages J . H Purvis Cottag-es E. F. Meech Cottag-es Chas. Powell Cottag-es Jos. N ash Cottag-es Mrs. C. A. Fellows Cottages Mrs. E. A. Day Cottages Mrs. A. W. Bushee Cottages Mrs. Compton Cottag-es Mrs. Frain Cottag-es Mrs. Milo Lewis Cottages Mrs. Hodgman BURT LAKE Cottages Mrs. E. H. Sagrer Cottages John Johnson Cottag-es Geo. Voigtlander BEAR LAKE Hotel Mizer C. S. Mizer Cottages Jos. McConell BELLAIRE Waldmere Williams & Bump CHARLEVOIX The Inn B T. Osborn Chicago Resort W. Patty Belvedere R. P. Foley Fountain City J. H Messier Bartlett Dr. L. B. Bartlett Cottages C. Y Cook Cottages Wm. M. Miller Cottages Mrs. L. Blanchard Cottages Mrs. Nelson Ainslee Cottages Mrs. O. S. Washburn Cottages Mrs. Harriet West Cottages Mrs. Harrison Bedford Cottages Mrs. Fred Smith Cottages Mrs. C. Lamoreaux Cottages Mrs G«o. Eagleton Cottages Mrs. Chas. Newman Cottages W. H. Francis Cottages P. D. Campbell Cottages Mrs. G. O. Scott CHEBOYGAN. Read H. S. Read New Cheboygan Summit R.N. Hyde EDGEWOOD Cottages M rs. Lathrop Cottages Miss Lewis ELLSWORTH Orient ELK RAPIDS Lake View T. E. Sharp 150 100 7.S R.ATE Per Day $2 00 2 00 Rate Per Week 1 50 S 8 00— $14 00 700— 12 00 . . on application . . on application ..on application . .on application . on application . .on application . .on application ..on application ..on application .on application . . on application . .on application on application on application 7 00— $10 00 7 00— 10 00 7 00— 10 00 1 00- 1 50 14 00 - 28 00 14 00 10 00— 14 00 on application on application on apylication on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on api)lication on application on application on application on application 4 00— 10 0) HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES, HOTEL AND MANAGER EMMET BEACH Emmet Beach E. I. Ferg-uson FOUNTAIN POINT Fountain Point HARBOR POINT Harbor Point Club HARBOR SPRINGS Dewey W. H Dewe}' Emmet E. I. Ferg-uson INDIAN RIVER A Icove LES CHENEAUX ISLANDS Islington Mclbers & Co. Elliott A.H. Beach LIxME ISLAND Lime Island Hotel F. O. Davenport MACKINAC ISLAND Grand J. R. Hayes Jno. Jacob Aster Jno. Bog-an Island House Mrs. R. Van A. Webster Mission House Frank Bros New Mackinac F. R. Emerick New Murray D Murray New Chicag-o Jno. Hoban Bennett Hall Mrs. F. M. Bennett New Lake View C. C. Cable Cottag-es Miss Mary Doud Cottages Miss Amanda Hoban Cottag-es Mrs. S. B. Poole Cottages Mrs. Belle Gallagher Cottages Mrs A. E. Davis Cottages Miss Mollie Todd Cottages Mrs. McNally MACKINAW CITY Wentworth M. C. R. R. Co Stimpson C. C. Parkis MARQUETTE Hotel Superior New Clifton M arquette NEAHTAWANTA Neahtawanta S. A . Smith NORTHPORT Waukazoo Robt. Campbell OLD MISSION Hedden Hall OMENA Leelanaw Omena Inn Mrs J. A. Breas ODEN Rawdon's J. D. Rawdon 75 70 200 200 40 100 75 50 700 200 200 200 150 150 100 100 175 300 150 150 100 75 175 150 150 Rate Per Day S2 00 2 50— $4 00 2 50- 3 00 1 00- 1 50 2 00 2 00— 2 50 2 00 2 00 3 00— 5 00 2 50- 3 00 2 00— 3 00 3 00 2 50— 3 00 2 00— 3 00 2 00— 2 50 2 50 - 3 00 2 50— 3 00 Ratr Per Week $ 8 00— $10 00 7 50— 12 00 17 50— 24 00 12 00— 16 00 5 00- 7 00 10 00— 12 00 12 00 14 00- 17 50 14 00 - 17 50 14 00— 17 00 15 00- 18 00 15 00— 18 00 14 00— 20 00 14 00— 17 00 on application on application on application on application on application on application on application 2 25 1 50 2 50— 3 00 2 00— 3 00 2 00- 3 00 2 tX) 1 50— 2 00 1 50 2 50 2 00 1 50- 2 00 10 00 6 00— 9 00 7 00 10 00 10 00 - 14 00 8 00— 10 00 HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES, HOTEL AND MANAGER PETOSKEY New Arling-ton . .S H. Peck Imperial C. E. Christiancy, Jr. Cushman Cushman & Lewis Occidental J. E. Vermilva Park N. J. Perry Oriental .Hunt & Waite National Geo. Marshall Clifton J. A. C. Rowan Bang-hart P. D Banghart Petrie AM. Petrie JExchang-e E. L Labadie Cottag-es W. A. Andrews Cottag-es A. S. Moyer Cottag-es Mrs S S. Gag-e Cottag-es F. J. W. Stone Cottag^es J. P. Benedict Cottag-es W. F. Lawton Cottag-es Mrs. L J. Ing-alls Cottag-es Mrs. B F Gates Cottag-es Mrs Lydia Nichols Cottages Mrs. A. A.Beaman Cottag-es Frank Wilmarth Cottag-es Thos. Chamberlin Cottages C E. Cushman Cottag-es Mrs. Jane McKenzie Cottag-es H. H. Van Gorder Cottag-es Mrs. J. P. Mynard Cottages Mrs. A. R. Clark Cottages J S. King Cottages O J. Belknap Cottages M D Wingate Cotteges Geo. Williams Cottages J. A. Gardner Cottages Mrs. M. A. Lucas POINT AUX PINS The Pines ROARING BROOK The Inn RE. Park SATLT STE. MARIE Iroquis Guy D . Welton New Park Arlington ST. IGNACE The Russell W. M. Spice Cottages Mrs. Tamlyn Cottages Mrs Grant Cottages Mrs. C. S. Carr Cottages Mrs. Sheldon TRAVERSE CITY Park Place W. O. Holden Whiting E. C. Compton TRAVERSE BEACH Traverse Beach Hotel WEQUETONSING Wequetonsing Club Cottages Mrs. 0. H. Eaton 700 300 200 100 100 100 100 75 75 50 50 Rate Per Day 200 100 100 150 S3 00 -$5 00 2 00— 3 00 2 00— 3 00 2 00 1 50 2 00 1 00— 1 50 1 00— 1 50 I 50- 2 00 1 00 Rate Per Week S12 00— $18 00 10 00- 14 00 7 00— 10 00 7 00— 10 00 7 00— 10 00 7 00— 10 00 7 00— 10 00 5 00— 7 00 . . .rooms only on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application on application 10 00— 12 00 14 00— 21 00 2 00— 2 50 1 SO— 2 00 on applfcation on application on application on application 12 00— 14 00 7 00— 10 50 10 00— 12 00 700- 12 00 on application INDEX, PAGE "Ag-ates," Petoskey, . . . . . .99 Alanson, ....... 127 Alden, ....... 66 Amusements — Out-door, ..... 19 Ann Arbor R. R. . . . . . .34 Arched Rock, ...... 149 Archeolog-ical " finds," ...... 38 Baedecker Guides, ..... 5 Bag-g-agre, ....... 19 Battle of 1814, ...... 142, 151 Bathing-, ....... 20 Bay Shore, ....... 69 Bay View, . . . . . .71, 103-105 Bear Lake, ....... 132 Beaver Island, ...... 89-92, 122 Bellaire, . . . . . . . 67, 74 Belvedere, ........ 69 Bicycling-, ....... 20 Bicycle Roads — Beaver Island, ...... 91 Cross Villag-e, ...... 115-125 Charlevoix, ....... 87-89 Elk Rapids, ...... 71 East Jordan, ...... 87-89 Eeelanaw Peninsula, . . . . 60, 64 Mackinac Island, ..... 20, 146-151 Old Mission, ...... 64-69 Petoskey Wheel way, ..... 100 Petoskey to Harbor Springs, . . . 107-112 St. Ignace, ..... 154 Traverse City, ...... 60 British — in Mackinac, ..... 139 British Landing-, ..... 142, 151 INDEX— Continued. page; Boarding- Houses, ...... 169-170 Boardnian Lake; . . . . . .59 Boardman River, . . . . . .59 Bois Blanc Island, ...... 132 Boyne City, ....... 85 Boyne Palls, . . .... 40 Buoys, ....... 158, 160 Burt Lake, . . .• • . .129 Brutus, ....... 127 Cadillac, ....... 37 Camping-, ....... 20-22 Clam Lake, ....... 74 Canal, the "Soo," ...... 165-6 Carp Lake, . . . . . . . 128 Carp Lake (Leelanaw) ...... 63 Charlevoix, ....... 47, 79-84 Cheboyg-an, ....... 131 Cheboygan River, ....... 131 Central Lake, ....... 68 Chicago, ...... .27 C. & W. M. R. R. . . . 27-32, 41-44, 66-71 Chicag-o Resort (Charlevoix) . . . . .82 Climate, ....... 18 Conway, ........ 127 Convent Cross Villag-e, ..... 123 Conley Hill, 42 Clothing-, . . ... . • .18 Crooked River, . . , . . • .129 Cross Villag-e, ...... 115-125 Detroit, ........ 33 Detroit River, : . . ... . 52 D. & C. S. N. Co., . . . . . . 52 D. G. H. & M R. R. . . . . . , 34 D. G. R. & W. R. R . . . . .33 Detour, ....... 158 Devil's Kitchen, ....... 147 Driving-, Sug-g-estions for . . . .20, 116 Doug-las Lake, ....... 128 INDEX— Continued. PAGE Drummond Island, ...... 158 Kaprle's Nest Rock, ...... 154 Karly's Farm, Mackinac, ..... 150 Kast Jordan, ....... 85 Klk Ivake, . . . . . . 72 Elk Rapids, . . . . . . . 66, 72 Ellsworth, . . . . . . . .69 Frankfort, ....... 51 French, the— in Mackinac, ..... 137 Ferry — Straits of Mackinac, .... 152 F. «& P. M. R. R. . . . . . . .34 Fishing- (see "Trout Streams") .... 22 Fort Mackinac, ....... 147 Fort Brady ("Soo") ..... 165 Fountain Point, ...... 63 Fuch's Hotel, ....... 63 Fruit "Belts," . . . . . . . 29, 41 Game Laws, ....... 23-4 Grand Rapids, ...... 31-2 G. R. & I. R. R. . . . . . 32, 35-41, 126-129 Grand Traverse Bay, ..... 57-75 Grand Trunk R. R. . . . . . . 32 Geolog-y of Michigan, ..... 14-16, 99 Geography of Michigan, ..... 11 Gypsum Beds, ....... 31 Hammond, ....... 28 Harbor Spring's, ...... 48, 107 Harbor Point, ....... Ill Hay Eake Channel, ...... 160 Hay Lake, ...... 161 HisTORicAi. Sketches — Bay View, ...... 103 Beaver Islands, ...... 89 Charlevoix, . . . . . . .79 Cross Village, ...... 115 INDEX— Continued. PAGE Mackinac Island, ...... 135 Petoskey, ....... 92 Sault Ste. Marie, ...... 163 St. Ignace, ...... 154- Traverse City, . . . . . . 57 Holland, ........ 30 Holy Island, ....... 86 Hotels, ....... 19, 169-70 Howard City, ....... 35 Hunting, ........ 22 Huron Lake, ....... 13 Indians, History of — * . See "Historical Sketches" Indian River, ....... 130 Inland Route, ...... 128-132 Intermediate Lake, . . . . . . 67, 74 Ironton, . . . . . . . 85, 88 Jesuit Missions, . . ... . . 137 Jordan River, ....... 86 Kalamazoo, ....... 32 Kalamazoo Resort (Charlevoix) ... 69, 82 Ke-g-o-mic, . ... . . . . 105 Lakes, the Great ...... 12-14 L. S. & L. M. Transportation Co. . . . .46 Lansing-, ....... 33 Leelanaw Peninsula, ...... 60 Leelanaw Point, ...... 52-63 Lee's Point, ....... 61 Leland, ....... 63 Les Cheneau Island, ...... 156 Lime Island, ...... 159 Little Traverse Bay, ... 48, 69, 79, 96, 101, 109 Locks Sault Ste. Marie, ..... 166 Lover's Leap, ....... 146 Lumber "Belt," . . ... 35-37 Ludington, ....... 50 INDEX— Continued. PAGE Mackinac Island, ..... 135-156 Mackinac Straits, ..... 49, 153 Mackinaw City, ...... 152 Manistee, ........ 51 Manistee River, . . . . . . 38, 43 Manitou Islands, ...... 51 "Manitou" S S. . . . . . 46-50 Maps — Michig-an, ....... 6 Grand Traverse Bay, .... 56 Little Traverse Bay, . . . . .78 Plat of Bay View, ..... 102 Upper Peninsula, ...... 134 Mackinac Island, ..... 144 Marquette, Father ...... 155 Marquette Trail, . . . . . 93, 98 Massacre, Pontiac's ..... 139, 153 Michigan— Geolog-y, ...... 14-16 Topog-raphy. ..... 16-17, 25-6 Profile of ....... 25 Peninsulas, ...... 12 Michig-an Lake, ...... 13 Michig-an Central R. R. . . . . .44 Middle Village, ...... 125 Mormons, History of ..... . 80-89 Mullet Lake, ....... 131 Muskeg-on River, ...... 36 Ne-ah-ta-wan-ta, ...... 64 Nebish Island, . . . . . . 159 New Buffalo, .... . . 29 Nig-ara Falls, ....... 11 Northern Michigan Line, ..... 47 Northern S S, Co. . . . . . . 52 "Northland," S. S. . . . . . . 52 "North West" S. S. • . . . . 52 Northport. ....... 60, 62-3 Norway Hill, ....... 43 INDEX— Continued. PAGE Oden-Oden, ....... 127 Old Mission, ....... 64.66 Omena, ........ 61-62 Page, ........ 105 Plateaus of Michig-an, . . .16, 25-6 Patrol U S. N. . . . . . . .159 Pellston, ....... 128 Peninsulas of Michigan, . . . . 12, 14 Petoskey, ...... 69, 92-100 Petoskey, Steamship ...... 47, 50 Pictured Rocks, ....... 15 Pine Lake, ...... 83, 84 Process-Verbal, ....... 163 Profile of Michigan, ...... 25 Point Aux Pins, ....... 132 Pontiac's Conspiracy, ..... 139 Port Huron, ....... 53 Provetnont, ....... 63 "Pudding Stone" ...... 15 Pullman, ........ 28 RaIIvROADS — Ann Arbor R. R. . . . . .34 C. & W. M. R. R. To Grand Rapids, ..... 27-32 To Traverse City, ..... 41-44 To Petoskey and Bay View, . . 65-71 D. G. H. & M. . . . . 34 D. G. R. & W. . . . . . . .33 F. & P. M. . . . . . . 34 G. R. & I. To Grand Rapids, ..... 32-33 To Petoskey, ..... 35-41 To Mackinaw City, . . . . . 126-129 Grand Trunk, ...... 32 Michigan Central, ..... 44 Railroad Rates, . . . . . . . 168 Rapids, Sault Ste. Marie, ..... 167 INDEX— Continued, PAGP Roaring- Brook, ....... 105 Robertson's Folly, ...... 150 Round Island, ...... 148, 157 Round Lake (Charlevoix) . . . . 82, 84 Round Lake (Pestokey) .... 113, 127 Routes to Northern Michig-in, .... 27-54 Sailors Encampment, ..... 159 St. Clair River, ....... 53 St. Clair Lake, . . . . .S3 St. Ignace, ....... 153 St. Tames, Beaver Island, . . * .89 St. Joseph, ....... 29 St. Joseph Island, ...... 159 Spectacle Reef. ...... 158 Sleeping- Bear Point, . 51 *'Soo" The ...... 163-167 •'Soo" River, ...... 157-161 ^'Snows" The ....... 156 Sug-ar Island, ....... 161 Sug-ar Loaf Rock, ...... 149 Skull Cave, ....... 150 Superior Lake, ...... 13 Sutton's Bay, . . . . . .61 Straits of Mackinac, ..... 49, 153 Strang-, "King" ...... 89 Sault Ste Marie, ...... 163-167 Sault Ste. Marie River, ..... 157-161 Steamship Lines— (See 46-53). Arnold Line, ....... 157 D. & C. S. N. Co. . . 52 Inland Route, ...... 128 L. M. & L. S. T. Co. . . . . 46 Northern Michig-an Line, .... 47 Northern S. S. Co. . . . . .52 Transportation facilities, . . -7,' 17 Traverse Beach, . . . . . 61 Traverse City, ....... 57-60 3 INDEX— Continued. PAGE Traverse Point, ...... 63 Topinabee, ....... 131 Topog-raphy of Michig-an, .... 16-17, 26 Torch Ivake, ....... 73 Torch River, . . . . . . 66, 73 Tkout Streams — Bear River, ...... 43 Betsy River, ...... 43 Boardman River, . . . . . 39, 44 Boyne Falls, ...... 40 Deer Creek, ....... 86 Jordan River, ...... 86 Little Manistee, ...... 42 Maple River, ...... 127 Marquette River, ...... 42 Monroe Creek, . . . . . .86 Pig-eon River, ..... 130 Rapid River, ....... 73 Sturg-eon River, ...... 130 Torch River, ....... 6(i Tunnel, St. Clair River, ..... 53 Weicatnp, Father . . . . . . 120 Welch's, ....... 66. 73 We-que-ton-sing-, ...... 106 Williamsburg', ....... 66 dbc 1HcM^ Eriinaton, PETOSKEY, MICH. THE LARGEST AND Rcbuilt 111 1897^98* FINEST HOTEL IN = THE NORTHERN LAKE REGION, PASSENGER ELEVATORS. ROOM WITH PRIVATE BATH. ELECTRIC LIGHTS. STEAM HEATED. BOWLING ALLEYS. RATES, $3,00 per day and up. Special by the week. ¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥ Address S. H. PECK, Manager. CHICAGO SfMfGstJIfchi^anllx Cbese be DETROIT, i Ipopular lines from CHICAGO, DETROIT, GRAND RAPIDS, ST. LOUIS, CLEVELAND, and many other places torn o o o ^ ^ o Northern SUMMER RESORTS, THROUGH SLEEPING CARS AND FAST TRAIN SERNICE. J. K. V. ACNEW, Cen'l Supt. CEO. De HAVEN, Cen'l Passenger Agt. cbe Summit Ibouse, R. N. HYDE, Proprietor, FINEST LOCATION IN THE CITY, REMODELED AND NEWLY FURNISHED, BATHS, ELECTRIC LIGHTS, RATES, SI PER DAY. NEAR M. C. DEPOT L INLAND ROUTE DOCK. Baggage Transferred Free. CHEBOYGAN, MICH. lp»aih l[Mace Ibotel, W. O. HOLDEN IS/1 A rsl A C3 E F^ , ANNAH <3c LAY CDO ¥¥¥¥ The Best Tourist Hotel in the l\ North is at Traverse City, If you want a place for real comfort and rest, try it ¥¥¥¥ ■TRAveF=