Hass Book- COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT ■-^^ /^t5 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK ALSO THE ORIGIN OF STREET NAMES AND A BIBLIOGRAPHY NEH^ EDITION WITH AN INTRODUCTION CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF THE ESTABLISHMENT IN 1653 OF A POPULAR FORM OF GOVERNMENT IN NEW AMSTERDAM BY ALBERT ULMANN MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN HISTORICAL SOCIETY -' :.n ' TIT}' NEW YORK APPLETON AND COMPANY 1903 u^ THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, Two Copies Received APR 29 1903 Copyright tntry CUSS 0^ XXo. No. ^ r / 'S n COPY B. I Copyright, 1901, 1903 By D. APPLETON and COMPANY TO MY LITTLE DAUGHTER RUTH WHOSE PRESENCE SUGGESTED THE IDEA OF WRITING THIS STORY OF THE LANDMARKS OF HER NATIVE CITY THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED PREFACE In a city like New York, governed by a spirit of tearing down and rebuilding at short intervals of time, it is not surprising that landmarks have been destroyed and that old places have been in danger of losing their historical associations. Fortunately, of late, through the worthy efforts of certain patriotic societies, many of the more important historic sites have been determined and marked by suitably in- scribed tablets. These memorials serve the double purpose of awakening attention and of investing with an air of reality the events they perpetuate. They are, however, but isolated mementos, bearing a sug- gestive phrase or two that have a meaning only to the student who has delved into the city's past. To make clear the full significance of these tablet- marked sites, to visit them in their chronological or- der, together with other landmarks worthy of consid- eration, and to weave around these relics and remind- ers of other days an interesting, graphic, and precise story, has been the object of this little work. In order to lend additional value to the book and to emphasize how much the welfare and the progress of the city depend upon the efforts, the civic love, and vi A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK the civic pride of the citizen, special paius have been taken to introduce as much information as space "svould permit, of the characteristics and the careers of those individuals that have figured prominently and worthily in the development, from a little Dutch town, of our great metropolis. While the plan has been particularly to interest the young, it is believed that the careful reiDroduction of inscriptions, the exact location of historic sites, the explanation of the origin of street names, and the addition of a comprehensive bibliography and list of references, can not fail to prove of interest to the teacher and to the student of history. For their generous assistance in this undertaking, thanks are due to Mr. Hugh Hastings, State Histo- rian, at Albany; to Mr. Robert H. Kelby, Librarian of the ]!^ew York Historical Society; to Henry P. Johnston, Professor of History at the College of the City of Xew York; to the librarians of the Mercantile, Astor, and Lenox Libraries; to Dr. Frank B. Kelley, of the City History Club; to Dr. Henry M, Leipziger; to the Holland Society; and to the Society of the Sons of the Kevolution. A. U. New York, January, 1901. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. — The old Dutch landmarks II. — Dutch rule and Dutch customs III.— Beginning of English rule, 1664-1699 . IV. — English rule, continued, 1700-1765 V. — Early English landmarks VI. — Revolutionary landmarks VII. — Revolutionary landmarks (continued) . VIII. — The federal city IX. — First half of nineteenth century X. — Second half of nineteenth century XL— Memorials, principally of the nineteenth TURY .... XII. — Same (concluded) Origins of street names Bibliography Histories, descriptive and reminiscent works, biographies, fiction. Index vii CEN PAGE 1 22 42 59 74 103 124 145 158 192 211 233 258 267 281 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS rcli Stuyvesaut's time An Indian village on Manhattan Island . . . Frontispiece Director Van Twiller deciding a lawsuit Peter Stuyvesant punishing a citizen Stuyvesaut's town house, erected in 1658 First City Hall. Erected 1642, taken down in 1700 View of the Wall and Water Gate, at the foot of Wall Street Broad Street, 1659 .... Peter Stuyvesant .... Stuyvesaut's country house Peter Stuyvesaut's tomhstoue, St. Mark's chu Milestone on Kingsbridgc road Stuyvesant's pear tree .... Map of New York in 1642 The earliest view taken of New Amsterdam Section of Jewish cemetery established duriU; New York in 1664 New York as it appeared about the year 1667 The city's seal .... . New York in 1695 .... Map of New York in 1728 View of the fort about the year 1750 New York Historical Society . Site of Fort Amsterdam, directly south of Bowling Green Marinus Willett tablet, corner Broad and Beaver Streets Tearing down the statue of George III on Bowling Green The old Post Office, originally the Middle Dutch church Harlem Heights battlefield looking north from One Hundred and Sixteenth Street, west of Broadway Statue of Nathan Hale in City Hall Park Tablet to commemorate the battle of Harlem Heights Library, Columbia University Point of Eocks, One Hundred and Twenty-seventh Street i Convent Avenue . . . . The Grange, as it appeared in Hamilton's time The thirteen trees planted by Alexander Hamilton at One Hun- dred and Forty-third Street, east of Amsterdam Avenue ix nd XX xxvi 15 17 18 20 24 26 28 31 33 35 37 39 43 45 47 53 66 70 76 79 94 99 101 116 119 121 122 125 126 127 X A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK PAGE The Jumel Mansion 131 Ehinelauder sugar house, prison during the Revolutionary War . 136 Tlie old prison ship Jersey 138 Washington's house in Cherry Street 149 Wall Street in 1789, showing Federal Hall 151 Tammany Hall, 1830 ; present site of the New York Sun Building. 155 View of old huildiugs on William Street in 1800 . . . .159 Statue of Alexander Hamilton in Central Park .... 161 Collect Pond, 1800 164 First boat propelled by steam 166 Cooper Union and Peter Cooper's statue 171 New York Free School No. 2, Chatham Street, 1808 . . .173 Modern schoolhouse. West End Avenue and Eighty-second Street 174 New Hall of the Board of Education 175 Map of McGowan's Pass and Forts Fish and Clinton . . . 177 Fort ill cations at McGowan's Pass, 1814 179 Site of Fort Clinton in Central Park 181 Blockhouse, One Hundred and Twenty-third Street . . . 183 Canal boat village, Coenties Slip 185 View of St. Paul's church and the Broadway stages, 1831 . . 188 Departure of the Seventh Eegiment 199 Grant's tomb, Eiverside Drive 201 Astor Place Riot, 1849 204 Style of engine used in 1812 206 Scene at a fire, 1800 207 Theological Seminary, Twentieth Street and Ninth Avenue . 213 A glimpse of Hudson Park. Leroy and Hudson Streets . . 216 St. John's chapel, Yarick Street 220 Montgomery's tomb, St. Paul's church 224 Trinity church 226 Hamilton's tomb 227 Trinity churchyard '-28 Bowling Green, 1830 234 Old mansion in State Street 236 Statue of Liberty 238 Fraunces's Tavern 240 Statue of Washington, Sul)treasury Building 243 Statue of Washington, Eighty-ninth Street and Riverside Drive. 245 Washington Arch ~'*^ Columbus Column. Fifty-ninth Street and Eighth Avenue . . 250 City Hall and Printing House Square 254 Location of down-town landmarks. xii A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK KEY TO MAP OF DOWN-TOWN LANDMARKS 1. Battery Park. Includes Aquarium (formerly Castle Garden) ; flag-staff ; statue : Ericsson ; tablet ; Barge Office. 2. Old Mansion. 7 State Street. 3. Bowling Green. North of Battery Park. Statue : De Peyster. 4. Tablet ; reference to King George's statue. No. 1 Broadway. 5. Site of Fort Amsterdam. South of Bowling Green. (Tablet will no doubt be placed on new Customhouse.) f). Fraunces's Tavern ; tablet. Southeast corner Broad and Pearl Streets. ~. Marinus Willett tablet. Northwest corner Broad and Beaver Streets. 8. First City Hall ; tablet. 73 Pearl Street. 9. Bradford tablet No. 1. 81 Pearl Street. 10. Fire of 183.5 tablet. 88-90 Pearl Street. 11. Bradford tablet No. 2. New York Cotton Exchange, Hanover Square. 12. Canal-boat village. Coenties Slip. Jeannette Park. 13. AVashington's second residence. 39 Broadway. 14. Site of first houses built by Europeans ; tablet. 41 Broadway. 15. Tin Pot Alley. 55 Broadway. Cannon, Revolutionary period. In front of 55 Broadway. IG. Statues: Hudson, Stuyvesant, Wolfe, De Witt Clinton. Southeast corner Broadway and Exchange Place. 17. Trinity Church. Broadway, opposite Wall Street. Burns's Tavern tablet. 115 Broadway. 18. Site of second City Hall (now occupied by Subtreasury). Northeast cor- ner of Wall and Nassau Streets. Statue of Washington. Inscriptions. 19. Assay Office. East of Subtreasury, Wall Street. 20. Customhouse. Southeast corner Wall and William Streets. 21. Site of Pitt's statue. Wall and William Streets. 22. Place where Washington landed, 1789. Foot of W^all Street. 23. Site of Middle Dutch Church (Mutual Life Insurance Building) ; tablet. Cedar and Nassau Streets. Chamber of Commerce, same building. 24. Site of John Street Theater. Nos. 17-21 John Street. 25. First Methodist Church. John Street between Nassau and William Streets. 26. Battle of Golden Hill tablet. Northwest corner John and William Streets. 27. Seventh Regiment tablet. Southwest corner Fulton and Nassau Streets. 28. St. Paul's Church ; tablets. Broadway and Fulton Street. Montgomery's tomb. 29. City Hall Park. Broadway, Park Place to Chambers Street. Post Office ; tablet. Statue : Nathan Hale. City Hall ; tablet (Declaration of IndeptMuIence). City Hall ; tablet (Underground Railway). Hall of Records ; tablet. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK xiii 30. Printing House Square. East of City Hall Park. Statues : Franklin and Greeley. 31. t'ranklin Square. Pearl and Frankfort Streets. Washington's first residence ; tablet. Cherry Street pier, Brooklyn Bridge. 32. Site Rhinelander Sugar House. Duane and Rose Streets. 33. New Hall of Records. Chambers and Centre Streets. 34. Jewish Cemetery. New Bowery near Oliver Street. Chatham Square. 35. Mulberry Bend Park. Baxter and Bayard Streets. 36. City Prison. (Site of Collect Fond.) Centre and Leonard Streets. Criminal Courts Building. 3~. New York County Jail. Ludlow and Essex Streets. 38. One-mile Stone. Bowery opposite Riviugton Street. 39. Police Headquarters. 300 Mulberry Street. 40. Cooper Union ; tablet. Eighth Street, Third and Fourth Avenues. Statue : Peter Cooper. Astor Library. Lafayette Place, south of Eighth Street. 41. St. Mark's Church. Stuyvesant Street, Second Avenue, and Eleventh Street. Peter Stuyvesant's tombstone. 42. New York Historical Society. Second Avenue and Eleventh Street. 43. Tompkins Square. Seventh to Tenth Streets, Avenue A to Avenue B. Stuyvesant's Pear Tree ; tablet. Thirteenth Street and Third Avenue. 44. New York Society Library. University Place, near Twelfth Street. 45. Union Square. Fourteenth to Seventeenth Streets, Fourth Avenue to Broadway. Statue : Washington. 46. St. John's Chapel. Varick Street, near Laight Street. 47. Landing Place of Washington, 1775. West Street, near Laight Street ; tablet. 48. Hudson Park. Hudson and Leroy Streets. Stone Memorial ; tablet. 49. Old Houses. Weehawken Street. 50. Abingdon Square. Junction Hudson Street and Eighth Avenue at Twelfth Street. 51. Site of Greenwich Village. 52. Washington Square. Fourth Street, Waverly Place, University Place, and Macdougal Street. Washington Arch. 53. Washington Mews. One block north of Washington Square at Fifth Avenue. 54 Theological Seminary. Ninth Avenue, Twentieth and Twenty-first Streets. London Terrace. Twenty-third Street, between Ninth and Tenth Avenues. Chelsea Cottages. Twenty-fourth Street, between Ninth and Tenth Avenues. Morse Tablet. 5 West Twenty-second Street. xiv A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 55. Stuyvesant Square. Fifteenth to Seventeenth Streets at Second Avenue. 56. Gramercy Park ; tablet. Twentieth to Twenty-first Streets at Irving Place. 57. College of the City of New York. Lexington Avenue and Twenty-third Street. Tablet. 58. Two-mile Stone. West side Third Avenue, between Sixteenth and Seven- teenth Streets. LANDMARKS NORTH OF TWENTY-THIRD STREET Madison Square. Twenty-third to Twenty-sixth Streets, between Madison Avenue and Broadway. Statues : Arthur, Conkling, Seward. Worth Monument. Murray Hill. Thirty-second to Forty-fifth Streets, Third to Sixth Avenues. Kip"s Bay. Thirty-sixth Street, East River. Statue of Horace Greeley. Greeley Square, Thirty-third Street and Sixth Avenue. Public I^ibrary (site of Old Reservoir). Fortj'-second Street and Fifth Avenue. Bryant Park. Forty-second Street and Sixth Avenue. Washington Irving ; bronze bust. Bryant Park. Washington-Putnam tablet. Forty-third to Forty-fourth Streets, Broadway. Dutch Collegiate Church ; tablet. Fifth Avenue and Forty-eighth Street. Four-mile Stone. Fifty-seventh Street and Third Avenue. Hall of the Board of Education. Fifty-ninth Street and Park Avenue. Columbus Column. Fifty-ninth Street and Eighth Avenue. Central Park. Fifty-ninth Street to One Hundred and Tenth Street, Fifth to Eighth Avenues. Statues: Fitz-Greene Halleck, Mall ; Alexander Hamilton, west of Metro- politan Museum of Art ; S. F. B. Morse, Seventy-second Street, near Fifth Avenue : Seventh Regiment Soldier, west side, near Seventy-second Street : Daniel Webster, west side entrance. Seventy-second Street. Obeli.sk. Near Metropolitan Museum of Art. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Seventy-ninth Street, entrance Fifth Avenue. Reservoirs. South and north of Eighty-sixth Street. McGowan's Pass. One Hundred and Seventh Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. Fort Clinton. North of One Hundred and Sixth Street, near Fifth Avenue. Block House. One Hundred and Tenth Street. Place where Nathan Hale was executed. Forty-flfth Street and First Avenue. Five-mile Stone. Third Avenue, near Seventy-fifth Street. Blanhattan Square. Seventy-seventh to Eighty-first Streets, Central Park West, Columbus Avenue. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK xv Museum of Natural History. Manhattan Square. Statue of Washington ; inscription. Eighty-ninth Street and Riverside. Block House. One Hundred and Twentj'-third Street and Amsterdam Avenue. Columbia University. One Hundred and Sixteenth Street and Amsterdam Avenue. Library ; inscription. Battle of Harlem Heights ; tablet. Broadway, near One Hundred and Eighteenth Street. Battlefield. Broadway, nortli of One Hundred and Sixteenth Street. Grant's Tomb. Riverside Drive, One Hundred and Twenty-second Street. Claremont Hill. Riverside Drive, above One Hundred and Twenty-second Street. Point of Rocks. One Hundred and Twenty-seventh Street and Convent Avenue. Hamilton Grange. Convent Avenue, north of One Hundred and Forty-first Street. Thirteen Trees. One Hundred and Forty-third Street, east of Amsterdam Avenue. Nine-mile Stone. One Hundred and Fifty-second Street and Amsterdam Avenue. Trinity Cemetery. Amsterdam Avenue, One Hundred and Fifty-third to One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Streets. Knowlton-Leitch tablet. Wall, Trinity Cemetery, One Hundred and Fifty- third Street. Audubon Park. One Hundred and Fifty-fifth to One Hundred and Fifty- eighth Streets along the Hudson. Revolutionary Redoubt. Audubon Park. Jumel Mansion. One Hundred and Sixty-first Street, east of St. Nicholas Avenue. Washington tablet. Jumel Mansion. Margaret Corbin Tablet. Holyrood Church, One Hundred and Eighty-first Street and Broadway. Ten-mile Stone. No. 561 West One Hundred and Sixty-ninth Street, rear yard. Eleven-mile Stone. Holyrood Churchyard. Fort Washington Memorial. One Hundred and Eighty-third Street and Fort Washington Avenue. Fort Tryon. About One Hundred and Eighty-fifth Street, on the high ground overlooking the river. Fort George. About One Himdred and Eighty-third Street and Amsterdam Avenue. The Revolutionary Redoubt was a little to the south of the restaurant. INTRODUCTION TO NEW EDITION BEING AN ACCOUNT OP THE ESTABLISHMENT, IN 1653, OF A POPULAR FORM OF GOVERNMENT IN NEW AMSTERDAM When Peter Minnit bought the island from the Indians in 1G26 the popuhition numbered abont two hundred sonls, sheltered in some thirty one-story log houses with bark roofs. A rude blockhouse, occupy- ing the site immediately south of Bowling Green, served as a fort for the little colony, which was strung along the present Pearl Street, the eastern side of which was the river bank. The method of governing this little colony was simple. Most of the laws were made in Holland, and they w'ere administered by the director-general and a council of tive mcml)ers appointed in Amster- dam. The council w^as allowed to pass local regu- lations, but these were subject to rejection by the Holland authorities. The council also acted as a small court, and could impose fines and imprison- ment, but not the death penalty. As there were no lawyers, the accuser and the accused each stated his side of the story and the council decided the issue. xvm A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK The records furnish interesting glimpses of the every-day life of the colonists and of the primitive method of settling disputes. One unfortunate came to court and complained that, " in the daytime," a neighbor's dog had bitten him, claiming for loss of time and surgeon's fee twelve florins. The owner of the dog replied that he had given the victim per- mission to shoot the dog, that he had sent him four pounds of butter, and that in addition he was will- ing to give him four florins as charity. This was considered ample by the court, and the case was dis- missed. A thrifty housewife sued a shopkeeper for a half barrel of soap, saying that she had sent in pay- ment two beavers, which her child had delivered. There was a dispute as to what had become of the beavers. AVitnesses reported that they had seen the child bring the beavers to the shop, but the pro- prietor protested that the skins had not come into his hands. The court ordered him to prove that he did not get them. This he was unable to do, and he was thereupon commanded to furnish the soap. There was plenty for the court to do, but it managed very well, disposing of all sorts of cases. At the approach of the harvest season, so as not to call the farmers from their work, a recess of three weeks was regularly ordered. The government, as has been indicated, was a simple device, sufficient for the needs of a young settlement, but the people had no say in it. '' It was not ' government of the people, by ailt l»Ulli.-,llill^ ,k oUl/.iU. From an old priut. INTRODUCTION TO NEW EDITION xxvn was swept away. The new members of the board of nine men, instead of being elected, were chosen by the outgoing delegates, who named their suc- cessors. In this way tlie choice of the nine men passed entirely from the control of the people. Despite this fact, the latter sought to preserve the welfare of the community and endeavored to redress grievances. Stuyvesant's method of correct- ing abuses was to issue proclamations, but tliey proved of no avail. Such a flood of these orders was sent forth that the people grew confused, and often, through misunderstandings, became liable to fines, imprisonment, or loss of property. It became more and more evident that there was something radically wrong, and that if the col- ony was to prosper and keep pace with its English neighbors certain definite changes of policy would have to be made. The nine men proposed stating the case to the authorities in Holland, but Stuyve- sant looked at the matter in a different light and told them to submit their grievances to him. Such a command, said the former, was not based on any sound reason. Opposition, in Stuyvesant's mind, was only another name for treason. Abuse flowed freely from his lips, and he did not hesitate to say that hanging was too good for the nine men. In the end, however, the nine carried their point and succeeded, in 1G49, in laying before the States- General, " A Remonstrance," which, though peculiar in many ways, was too interesting and too emphatic in its earnestness to be lightly considered. It spoke of much that might have been omitted — the dis- xxviii A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK covery of the country, its climate, rivers, mountains, and seasons, its plants and animals; the Indians, their customs, manner and mode of living — but it also pointed out in unmistakable terms that the " sole and true foundation of the ruin and destruc- tion of New Netherland " was the misgovernment to which the province had been subjected. The ad- ministrations of Kieft and Stuyvesant were then described in detail, and there was no uncertainty in the language used. The coming of Stuyvesant, they said, was like that of a peacock, pompous and stately; in the dispensation of justice he was not like a judge, impartial, but took sides and thundered against the unfortunate individual who awoke his ill will; as to his counselors, he often abused them in terms more beiittiug a fish market than a council hall; in the matter of puldic works, he had done something, but not nearly enough, although there was sufficient revenue at hand; the fort was unfin- ished, the currency (the wampum, or bead money, of the Indians, which was in general use) was in a wretched state and caused innumerable disputes; and, in general, the more earnestly people endeav- ored to improve the affairs of the colony, the worse things seemed to get. The effect of the Remonstrance was the issue, in 1650, of a provisional order bestowing, among other measures, on the city of ISTew Amsterdam a burgher government consisting of a schout, two hur- gomasters, and five schrpens, providing at the same time, however, the continuation of the nine men in power for three years longer. INTRODUCTION TO NEW EDITION xxix On the 2d of Febniaiy, 1G53, the new form of administration became a reality. The functions of the new officials were to a certain degree similar to those that had been in vogue in Holland for cen- turies. The schout combined some of the duties of our present mayor, district attorney, chief of po- lice, and sheriff. The burgomasters were esteemed the most exalted dignitaries in the city. They were the chief rulers, the principal church wardens, the protectors of the poor and of the widows and orphans, the keepers of the city seal, the guardians of the peace, and in general watched the welfare of the town and of the people. Tlie schepens constituted the court, and tried civil and criminal cases. Such were the powers of these officials in the mother country; in New Amsterdam, however, their field was much more limited. So far as its fo>-in was concerned, the new plan was in the nature of popular govern- ment. The instructions plainly stated that the offi- cers were to be elected, but Stuyvesant did not be- lieve in placing such privileges in the hands of the people. He deliberately retained their appointment in his own hands, and announced that the new offi- cials were not to think that his own powers were in any way diminished. At the end of the first year the burgomasters and schepens asked leave to nominate double their number from which their successors should be chosen, but Stuyvesant refused, saying, that " for the sake of peace and harmony and for the welfare of the city " the old board was to continue in office. In 165C it seemed likely that the colonists were XXX A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK really to obtain the privileges wliicli tlie custom of the fatherland had endeared to them. Stnyvesant actually yielded to the popular will, but when the nominations were presented to him he broke his promise, some of the persons named being obnoxious to him on account of former disputes. Should mis- understandings arise, he cunningly argued, the blame might be charged to him for having sanctioned the nominations. Although the colonists were disappointed in being denied the rights accorded to the burghers of the fatherland, they at least had the form of popular government that prevailed in Holland, and no doubt felt reasonably certain that in the course of time they would succeed in gaining the privileges they asked. Judging by the records, the burgomasters and schepens, aided by the sellout, attended to their duties conscientiously. These records comprise six folio volumes written in Dutch, which can be seen in the manuscript room of the City Library in the City Hall. In 1897 a translation was published in seven volumes, carefully edited and indexed, copies of which are in all the large libraries of the city. The ordinances and the reports of lawsuits con- tained in this interesting collection furnish a graphic and accurate picture of old times — a picture of the failings as well as of the strong and sterling charac- teristics of the Hi tie community from which has arisen tlie nuignificent metropolis of to-day. A. U. New York, March, 1903. A LAI^J^DMARK HISTORY OF ^EW YORK CHAPTER I "Father, what's Bowling Green?" asked Tom, turning to me one evening as we sat in the library. " It's a small park just north of the Battery," I replied. " And why do they call it Bowling Green? " con- tinned Tom. " Because at one time people used to play at bowls on that very green. There's an interesting- painting in the Hotel Imperial that shows a party at play. Some day we'll take a look at it." " Seems to me," said Tom, whose dark eyes had a way of lighting up when he was very much inter- ested in a subject, " that there must be a lot of curi- ous things downtown worth looking at." " Guess there must be," assented his brother George. " I read not long ago that there were tab- lets in many places that tell all about the old history of the city, and I have been planning to go down some day, only I do not know exactly how to go about it." "Are you really interested in the matter?" queried I, addressing the two lads. 2 1 2 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " Yes," answered eaeli with enthusiasm. " And I am, too," hastily added their sister Emily. " Well, then, I have a plan to submit to you. I think it the duty, and it ought to be the pride and pleasure, of every inhabitant of New York, young and old, to know its history and its historic sites. I confess that my education in this field was sadly neg- lected, but I don't think I am too old to take it up now. I am glad that you introduced the subject, and that you want to learn something about it. Now, suppose we arrange some Saturday afternoon excursions, and have our friend. Professor Williams, go with us. He has always taken an interest in you, and I feel very certain that he'll be glad to give us the benefit of his knowledge." "Hurrah! that's a fine idea!" exclaimed Tom, while George and Emily, who were of a quieter dis- position, but none the less in earnest, fairly beamed with pleasure. It may be well to say right here that Emily was eleven, Tom twelve, and George fourteen years old, and that I was three times as old as George. We were great friends in spite of this difference in our ages, which, I imagine, was due largely to the fact that they looked upon me as a sort of older brother, who was ever ready to be their companion and their confidential adviser. Professor Williams, a great friend of the young people, and immensely admired by tliem, approved heartily of our plan. He named us the A\'^alking Historians, and said he would be ready to go with us A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK at any time. Accordingly, a few days later, on a fine afternoon about the middle of September, we entered a Ninth Avenue elevated train at Seventy- second Street and rode downtown. " By the way," said the professor after we were seated, " do you know that Hudson was very much disappointed with the re- sults of his expedition in this neighborhood? " "Keally?" said Emily in surprise. " Yes. You see when he sailed from Holland in the Half Moon he expect- ed to find a short route to India, the land of rich silks, precious stones, and other valuables, and when, on September 2, 1G09, he first beheld the mouth of the glorious river that now bears his name, he thought he had surely found the path to the East. So he sailed past Manhattan Island without paying much attention to it, and after ten days arrived in the neighborhood of the present city of Albany. Here the river became so shallow that he had to stop. He sent on a crew in a small boat, hoping against hope, but the men returned presently, re- porting that it was useless to go farther in that direction. Hudson then turned about with a heavy heart and drifted downstream, caring very little for the beautiful banks that lay on either side. The Henry Hudson. 4 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK fact was that lie was interested in water, not in land. His employers, the East India Company, were as keenly disappointed as he was, and they were un- able to follow up his discoveries, as their charter did not permit them to visit countries bordering on the Atlantic for the purposes of trade." " Wasn't it strange," remarked George, " that so many years passed after Columbus's discovery be- fore any one visited these parts? " " As a matter of fact Hudson was not the first discoverer," answered the professor. " In 1524, John Yerrazano, in the employ of the French, sailed into New York Bay, wrote a description of it, and handed it to Francis I, who was King of France at the time. But the French were then at war, and so no attention was paid to the matter. One year later Stephen Gomez, a Portuguese, came here and carried off a quantity of furs, and some Indians whom he sold into slavery. The Spaniards listened to Gomez's story, but they, being interested in fountains of youth and rich mines, which they thought could be found only in the sunny South, scorned the northern wilderness and never visited it again." " H'm," grunted Tom, to indicate his contempt of Spanish ideas. " How was the city begun," asked George, who always wanted to get at the bottom of things, " if the East India Company did nothing? " " Private individuals took up the matter. The Dutch were shrewd merchants, and when it became known that there were great quantities of furs to be obtained in the new land, some enterprising men A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 5 fitted up a vessel and sent it across tlie ocean. Tlie sliip returned witli a large cargo of furs, and the enterprise was regarded as a great success." "Twenty-third Street! " called out the guard. " Watch for Twenty-first Street," said the pro- fessor, " and notice the theological seminary. This neighborhood is known as ' Old Chelsea,' and well deserves a visit, which we shall pay later on." A glimpse was accorded us of the stately college buildings and the trimly kept lawms, but George brought us back to our subject by saying: " What sort of people were the Dutch? " " A fine nation," answered the professor. " They were brave, enterprising, inventive, loved liberty, and, what was particularly praiseworthy, allowed every one, no matter what his religious belief might be, to worship as he pleased. This was a rare privi- lege in those days, and no other country in the Old World was as free as Holland. You can understand their character fully when I tell you that the Dutch have often been called the Yankees of Europe." " Why was the island called Manhattan? " asked George. " It was the name of the Indian tribe that lived here. The name means, literally speaking, the ' Place of the Whirlpool,' and refers to the tum- bling, rushing, boiling waters of Hell Gate, that both fascinated and puzzled the natives." " Did they fight the Dutch? " inquired Tom, who loved adventure of all kinds. " Yes, there were some bloody wars, but the Dutch were as much to blame for this as the Indians. 6 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK It is only fair to say that the red men met the whites in a friendly spirit. They greeted Hndson with every sign of welcome and bronght him food, for which he gave them axes, knives, shoes, and stock- ings. jSTot knowing the purposes of these articles, they surprised Hudson by hanging the axes and shoes around their necks as ornaments, and used the stock- ings as tobacco pouches. It was only when the whites injured them that the Indians turned against the Dutch. The Indians were exceedingly revenge- ful- — revenge was a part of their religion — and they never rested until they had shed blood to atone for that of any relative that had been killed." " Christopher Street! " shouted the guard. " We are now in old Greenwich village," said the professor. " Where is it? " asked Tom in his impulsive way, looking out of the window, as if he expected to see some of the ancient farmhouses. " The village has long ago disappeared," ex- plained the professor; " in fact, excepting the neigh- borhood of the Battery, this is probably the oldest settlement of white men on the island of ^ew York. Originally, it was an Indian village called Sappohani- can, and Indian huts stood near the shore where you can see the red funnels of that French steamer. A little stream, called Manetta Creek, emptied into the river near by, and though it can no longer be seen, it still flows through its ancient channel under- ground. It rises somewhere east of Fifth Avenue near Twentieth Street, touches Union Square, and then turns westward. Builders putting up new build- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 7 ings discover, to tlieir cost, that the old stream is still there, as it means expensive pile driving. I shall tell you more of Greenwich village at the proper time; meanwhile we are traveling along the old Green- wich road, which was one. of the principal and most popular roads of colonial ISTew York." " How is it that the streets in these parts are so mixed up? " asked George. " We shall get to that later," responded the pro- fessor. " It will be necessary, in order to avoid con- fusion, to take one period at a time. First, we shall inspect the old Dutch town, passing over a number of English landmarks that belong to a later period. In this way we shall follow the historical order of events, even if we have to pay a second visit to some of the localities. I suppose you have noticed that Manhattan Island is like a long stocking, having its toes at the Battery and its heel at the eastern ter- minus of Grand Street. It was at the toe end that the earliest settlement was located." "Rector Street! " called out the guard. " Ah, here we are in the old Dutch town at last," said the professor, rising and leading the way out. As we passed up Rector Street toward Broadway, Tom, who had been casting disapproving glances around him, remarked : " Why did the Dutch have such narrow streets? " " They never thought that their little lanes would some day become the thoroughfares of a great me- tropolis. In their time such a street as this was noth- ing more than a country pathway, and the old Dutch burghers found it wide enough. The wonder is that. 8 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK as the city grew, no attempt was ever made to im- prove the old paths." " Hello," said Tom suddenly, " here's a grave- yard. I never knew they buried people down- town." '' That's Trinity," said the professor. " The churchyard is over two hundred years old, but it be- longs to the English period, and so we shall pass it for the present." " I wonder what the Dutch would sa^^ if they were to come back now and see these high houses," remarked George as he raised his eyes to the top of the American Surety building, three hundred and six feet above the ground and twenty-two feet above the top of Trinity steeple. No one attempted to solve this problem, and so we turned into Broadway, walking down the west side. " I don't see," remarked Tom, " why they ever called this Broadway." " Others have made the same comment," said the professor. " At first it was nothing more than an Indian trail, running along the ridge of a hill that formed the backbone of the island. The original settlers did not consider it a choice locality, pre- ferring Pearl and Broad Streets, as we shall pres- ently learn. In fact, for some years the houses, especially on the east side, were little better than hovels, consisting of a single room with a fireplace. But here we have Tablet No 1." Pointing to a bronze plate near the downtown edge of Aldrich Court, 41 Broadway, the professor A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 9 asked George to read the legend. George there- upon read the inscription, which was as follows: THIS TABLET MARKS THE SITE OF THE FIRST HABITATIONS OF WHITE MEN ON THE ISLAND OF MANHATTAN. ADRIAN BLOCK COMMANDER OF THE TIGER ERECTED HERE FOUR HOUSES OR HUTS NOVEMBER 1613. HE BUILT THE RESTLESS THE FIRST VESSEL MADE BY EUROPEANS IN THIS COUNTRY. THE RESTLESS WAS LAUNCHED IN THE SPRING OF 1614. THIS TABLET IS PLACED HERE BY THE HOLLAND SOCIETY OF NEW Y'ORK SEPTEMBER 1890. " What's the Holland Society? " queried Tom. " It is an association," answered the professor, " of descendants of those who can trace their ances- try back, through the male line, to the colonists from Holland prior to 16Y5. That little text," continued the professor, referring to the tablet, " furnishes us with a good starting point, and will give us a clew to the manner in which the first attempt at anything like a settlement was made. I have already told you that the first vessel to reach Manhattan after the Half Moon, was fitted up by private individuals. Its voyage proving a success, other merchants fol- lowed the example of the pioneers, and in this way the fur trade was fairly established. One of the pioneers in this traffic was Adrian Block, whose 10 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK name appears there on the tablet. His vessel, the Tiger, took fire just as he was about to sail for home. Xothing daunted, he set about building a new ship, aided by the Indians, who helped him drag trees to the shore, and supplied him with food. While en- gaged in constructing the first boat ever launched in the waters of Manhattan, he erected the houses or huts to which reference is made. Block was thus the first house as well as boat builder in this vicinity." " Was the Restless a good boat? " asked George. " Oh, yes. Block sailed it up through the East River into the Sound and discovered Block Island, which still bears his name." "Why is it called the East River?" queried Tom. " Because," said the professor, '' the current from the heel of the stocking to the toe — that is, the section first settled by the Dutch — flows east and west, ^orth River was so called to distinguish it from the South or Delaware River, where the Dutch had also planted a colony. ]^ow, let us go down to Bowling Green." A short walk brought us to this miniature park. " Let us pass right through," said our guide, " ig- nore the statue, and examine yonder tablet on the Cunard Company's building." * * This and the neighborinfj buildings liave recently been re- moved to make room for tlie new Customhouse, to which, no doubt, the tablet will be affixed. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK H We crossed the street, mounted the stoop, and George read the inscription which is here copied: THE SITE OF FORT AMSTERDAM BUILT IN 1626. WITHIN THE FORTIFICATIONS WAS ERECTED THE FIRST SUBSTANTIAL CHURCH EDIFICE ON THE ISLAND OF MANHATTAN. IN 1787 THE FORT WAS DEMOLISHED AND THE GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILT UPON THIS SITE. THIS TABLET IS PLACED HERE BV THE HOLLAND SOCIETY OP NEW YORK. SEPTEMBER, 1890. " You will notice that this date is thirteen years later than that of Tablet No. 1. Some very impor- tant events took place during this period. At first no attempt was made to establish a colony — that is, to have people come over and make their homes here, but soon the English began to lay claim to the terri- tory, asserting that, owing to the discoveries of Cabot, they had a right to the whole coast. The Dutch quickly saw that to hold their possessions they would have to found a permanent settlement on Manhattan Island, whereupon, in 1624, a number of families crossed the ocean, followed shortly after by a director general, whose name you no doubt re- member, George." " I think it was Minuit." 12 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " (ijuite right; Peter j\Iiniiit. He began his ad- ministration by purchasing the island. The Indian chiefs met him, probably in this neighborhood, under some spreading trees, and concluded the bargain. As they looked with contempt on European money, considering it worth nothing, they accepted a quantity of beads and other showy trifles, amount- ing to twenty-four dollars. For this they gave up all title to Manhattan Island, containing some twenty-two thousand acres. This was the first real estate transaction in the history of New York. Have you any idea what its real estate is worth to-day? " As none of us could answer this c[uestion, the professor informed us that the latest valuation fixed by the tax commissioners was over two thousand three hundred millions of dollars. " Having now become lawful owners of the land, the settlers made plans to provide for their personal safety. A fort was at once staked out, consisting of a blockhouse surrounded by cedar palisades and called Fort Amsterdam. This rude structure did not last long, and a few years later a larger fort was erected, three hundred feet in length by two hundred and fifty in breadth, consisting of stone and earth. One side of it covered the ground where these six steamship buildings now stand. Inside, three wind- mills, a guardhouse and barracks, a stone church, and a house for the director were set up. Above them all waved the Dutch flag." " What was it like? " asked Emily. "Red, white, and blue, in horizontal stripes, thus A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 13 curiously supplying Manhattan with a red, white, and blue ensign two hundred and fifty years ago. " The settlement," continued the professor, " comprising about thirty simple huts, was strung along the shore of the East liiver, close to the fort. Every settler had his own house, kept his cows, tilled his land, or traded with the natives — no one was idle. Opposite the fort a space was kept open, and there it is to-day," added our guide, pointing to the Bowling Green tlirough which we had just passed. " It was the heart of the old Dutch town. There the children played, there the youths and maidens danced around the May pole, there the sol- diers paraded, and on Sundays the country wagons were gathered while the people were at church. There, too, after a bloody war with the Indians, a great assembly of chiefs took place, the pipe of peace was smoked, and the tomahawk buried as a sign of peace. Later on it was used as a market place and for an annual cattle show. Still later, during the English period, it was the scene of many stirring events of which we shall learn at the proper time." " Let's go over again and look at it," suggested Tom. " Not now," said the professor; " I want to take you next to the oldest street of the old city." Following our guide, we turned into State Street and walked southward, having on our right hand Battery Park. " Looks just like a part of Central Park," re- marked Tom, " only the water, and the ships, and the Statue of Liberty are more interesting." 14 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " All but the little corner right opposite us," said the professor, " was originally under water. A num- ber of rocks jutted out here and there, and not until the city w^as about seventy-five years old were they covered over and a battery of guns put in place. But here we are at Pearl Street." "Is Pearl Street the oldest street in the city?" asked Emily. " Yes," answered the professor; " it is the oldest and twists about more than any other." "Why was it called Pearl Street?" queried Tom. " Because of the quantity of pearly shells found there. The city, you know, w^as considerably nar- rower in the old days. Pearl Street being right at the water front." " And why is it so twisted? " asked George. " Perhaps it wound round the foot of a hill. This will explain the existence of other crooked streets. The hills are gone, but to this day we keep walking around them. Then, too, it must be remem- bered that the original town grew up in a haphazard sort of a way. People placed their houses where they pleased at first, and so when it came to the lay- ing out of roads the latter were more likely to be crooked than straight. You must try to imagine," continued the professor, as we turned the corner into Pearl Street, " that instead of those buildings opposite, you have the line of the shore before you, and here, on this side, a straggling row of quaint Dutch houses with their gable ends toward the road, topped with crowstep roofs." A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 15 " Why were the roofs made that way? " " To enable the chimney sweeps to climb up easily and reach the chimneys from the outside." A short walk brought us to Whitehall Street. " In the old days," said the professor, pointing toward the river, " you could have seen there a white Stuyvesant's town house, erected in 1658. Afterward called the White Hall. From an old print in Valentine's Manual for 1862. residence of no mean appearance, surrounded by a garden and stately trees. This was Stuyvesant's official town house, known as the ' White Hall ' which has left its name to the street it used to adorn," 16 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " Here's another tablet," said Tom, looking up at No. 73 Pearl Street. George being now recognized as the official reader, at once began to decipher the inscription, but not without difficulty, as it is high up. THE SITE OF THE FIRST DUTCH HOUSE OF ENTERTAINMENT ON THE ISLAND OF MANHATTAN. LATER THE SITE OF THE OLD " STADT HUYS " OR CITY HALL. THIS TABLET IS PLACED HERE BY THE HOLLAND SOCIETY OF NEW YORK. SEPTEMBER 1890. " This," said the professor, " is one of the most interesting sites of New Amsterdam. As the fort was the center of military life this was the center of all the great political discussions. Originally, as you see, it was a tavern to entertain traders and visitors who stopped on tlieir way from New Eng- land to Virginia. Being five stories high it could be seen from the decks of ships a long distance off. Later on it was turned into the City Hall and Stuyvesant and his council took possession, the council listening and Stuyvesant laying down the law. He regulated everything, from fixing the taxes to the hour when people ought to go to bed. Here, in 1G53, the official announcement was made that converted the settlement into a city with a court of burgomasters and schepens, and an officer called a sdiout, who was a mayor, a A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 17 sheriff, a district attorney, and a chief of police all iu one." " He must have been the most important man in the town," remarked Tom. " Oh, no," answered the professor, " Stuyvesant was still snpreme. It was intended, you miist know, that all these officers should be elected, but Stuy- First City Hall. Erected 1642, takeu down in 1700. From an old print in Valentine's Manual for 1852. vesant thought this altogether too much responsi- bility to rest on the people. So he took the bur- den on his own shoulders and appointed whom he pleased." Continuing along Pearl Street we soon reached Wall Street. " We have now practically walked around the old 18 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK town," remarked the professor, '' as from this point over to the Xorth River there was a wooden wall. View of the Wall and Water Gate, at the foot of Wall Street. From an old print in Valentine's Manual for 1862. Right here there was a gate, called the Water Gate; at Broadway there was another, called the Land Gate. A little battery extended into the river near this spot, guarded by a Dntch soldier. " "Why did they have a wall? " asked George. "In 1653 news came of a threatened invasion of New Englanders. They were considered a slip- pery and pushing people, and regarded with a mixture of contempt and fear. Great excitement followed, A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 19 the fort was repaired, a night watch established, and a resolution passed to build a wall. The ]Srew Eng- landers never came, but the wall was erected and it did more harm than good, as for nearly half a century it kept the town from growing beyond this unnecessary barrier. " Let us now go back," suggested the professor, " and take a look at Stone Street, which has an inter- esting history." " Hello, there isn't room even for the lamp posts," remarked Tom, pointing to a lamp bracketed to the side of a building. " This was the first street to be paved," said the professor, " and it owed this honor to the energy of a woman. Among the earliest colonists were the Van Cortlandts. They lived in this road, Herr Van Cortlandt having a brewery near by. The wife, like all true Hollanders, abhorred dust and dirt, and com- plained over and over again that she could not keep her house clean because of the condition of the road. She protested so persistently that at length the au- thorities, to quiet her, put down a rough stone pave- 7nent. This was regarded as a wonderful piece of work, and people came from all parts to look at it, calling it, in joke, the stone street, which name has ever since clung to it." The professor had just finished his story, when Tom, using his favorite expression, exclaimed, " Hello, here is a real big, broad street once more." " Quite right," said the professor, '' it is Broad Street. In the old days it was the most picturesque and truly Dutch thoroughfare of the town. The 20 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK water entered here from the river and formed a ditcli which the burghers turned into a water street with bridges and a walk along the banks. This reminded them of similar streets in their beloved Amsterdam, and it became their favorite promenade. Here they built some of their best houses, with wide stoops and benches, where the whole family could sit during the Broad Street, 1659. From an old print in Valentine's Manual for 1862. pleasant sunmier evenings, the father smoking his long pipe, the mother knitting, as long as the light would permit, and the children romping about. The neighbor or friend who happened to come along was invited to sit down and discuss some topic of the day, A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 21 such as Stiiyvesant's quarrels witli the burgomasters, or the likelihood of trouble with the Indiaus. " Just below us," continued the professor, " is Bridge Street, so called because a bridge crossed the creek at that point; near it is Moore Street, where the first dock was located and ships were 7noored, while just above us is Beaver Street, Beavers, you know, played an important part in the traffic of the colony, their skins being eagerly sought. It is said, })y some, that Beaver Street was the original fur center of the town ; hence its name. But now let us get back to Broadway, and I'll point out to you the statues of Hudson and Stuyvesant." We walked up Beaver Street to Broadway, crossed to the west side, and going northward a short distance came in sight of the new Exchange Court building on the corner of Exchange Place. " Notice the figures over the southern portico," said the professor. " The first is that of Hudson — simple in outline but very picturesque in its general effect. In the case of Stuyvesant, observe how clev- erl^^ the wooden leg has been managed. The long cloak forms an attractive background, while the cane, leaning outward and supporting the strong arm, forms an angle that carries the eye away from the in- artistic wooden peg. Fine statues, are they not? " We all assented, took a last look at the two noble bronze figures, and, heartily thanking our guide, made our way uptown, feeling that we had spent a profitable and memorable afternoon. CHAPTER II " I THINK," said the professor the next time we met, " that it will be well to have a talk before we take our second walk, so as to learn a little more of the founders of ISTew York. " The Dutch never did things by halves. So, having made up their minds to establish a colony, they went about it vigorously, fully determined to make it a success. " Of course, in order to manage the people who now lived on ]\ranhattan Island, some sort of gov; ernment had to be provided. Accordingly, a direc- tor-general was appointed to take charge, and a council of five wise men was selected to give him ad- vice. The first director, as you know, was Peter Minuit, who ruled from 1626 to 1632. He seems to have been a good man, but after a time he was ac- cused of favoring the patroons and was recalled." " Who were the patroons? " asked Tom. " Owners of great estates outside of Manhattan Island. Land was granted to the patroons in order to encourage farming, as nearly everybody wanted to go into fur trading. The patroons agreed to transport fifty settlers at their own expense, to pro- vide each with a farm and cattle, and to employ a 23 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 23 schoolmaster and a minister. In return each settler was bound to his patroon for ten years. Thus the latter was not only a rich but a powerful individual. The first of the patroons was Killian Van Rensse- laer, to whom was granted a tract of seven hundred thousand acres, near the site of our present city of Albany. " The second director was Wouter Van Twiller, a young man who turned out to be a very poor oifi- cial. He was stout, stupid, and stubborn, but was clever enough to look out for his own interests. In fact, if he had not been called home he would, in all likelihood, have seized the whole island. But his blunders in public matters were so ridiculous that the people quickly lost all respect for him, and they were glad to see him leave the colony. He ruled from 16-3:^ to 1637. " The West India Company, now thinking it necessary to send a strong, energetic director, se- lected William Kieft, who soon showed that he was an out-and-out autocrat, and, unfortunately, not a wise one. He was of a quarrelsome disposition, and plunged the colony into a war with the Indians, in the course of which the little settlement was almost entirely destroyed. Luckily, David De Vries, a worthy patroon, had won the confidence of the na- tives, and through his eiforts peace was restored. Shortly after, Kieft was ordered home. He sailed in August, 1647, but never reached his native land, the vessel going down in a storm off the coast of Wales. " The fourth and last director, Peter Stuyvesant, Peter Stuyvesant. Frum an oil itaintiiis in the pussesHion of the New York Historical Society. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 25 sometimes called Peter tlie Stiff-necked, now ap- peared on the scene. He governed for seventeen years, from 1(347 to 1664, and was easily the most interesting and picturesqne of the Dntcli rulers, A wooden leg supplied the place of one of his limbs, which he lost while fighting for his country in south- ern seas. Like Kieft he was an autocrat, but he was wise and earnest, and honestly sought to promote the welfare of the colony. When he arrived it was al- most in a state of ruin, the population having dwindled from three thousand to one thousand, owing to the Indian wars, and the people were badly discouraged. Stuyvesant issued a number of strict laws, many of which we would not accept nowadays, but at the time they were necessary. By steadily enforcing them he introduced order, cleanliness, and improATments of all kinds, and presently New Am- sterdam began to look something like the thrifty towns of Old Holland. " Stuyvesant, as you know, had a town house at the foot of Whitehall Street; he also had a coun- try residence in the neighborhood of Fourteenth Street. The place was known as the Great Bou- werie, or farm, and covered many acres of ground, extending from Fourth Avenue over to the Fast River. " Quick of temper was Stuyvesant and quarrel- some, and often he brought his wooden leg down on the floor with an angry thump when people disagreed with him. But he was full of energy, never shirked what he considered his duty, and, soldierlike, was at the front whenever there was danger. So when, in 26 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 1664, Captain Nicolls, in the name of the Duke of York, sailed up the bay at the head of a fleet of Eng- lish war vessels, Stiiyvesant stood at an angle of the fort, next to a gunner, ready to die in the defense of the town. ISTicolls, knowing that he could easily cap- ture the almost defenseless island, sent a haughty fetuyvi'5.iiit s ti)uiiti\ lidUit 1 loiii m (lid pi lilt message demanding surrender. ' I had rather be carried a corpse to my grave than to surrender the city,' replied Stuyvesant. Such was his courageous nature, but to have opposed the guns of the English would not only have meant terrible destruction of pro])erty, but the slaughter of many innocent women and children. Thus the dominie and the leading burghers argued with the determined fighter, and at A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 27 last he gave in, liis proud spirit broken at the idea of hoisting the white flag. With bent head he stumped out of the fort at the head of his sokliers, never more to govern or to regulate the laws. " Stuyvesant now retired to his Bouwerie. His orchards and gardens, kept in perfect order by a num- ber of negro slaves, were the finest on Manhattan Island. Shortly after the surrender, the authorities in Holland, wishing to throw the blame of losing the city on somebody, summoned their faithful servant before them and calmly charged him with cow^ardice. Of course, Stuyvesant easily proved that this was a mean and baseless accusation, and he did not hesitate to say that had the company sent him a suflicient number of soldiers and weapons he might have had some chance of defending the town. After such treatment he had no wish to remain in Holland, and as soon as possible he came back to his beloved Bou- werie, where peacefully he passed his days, often in- viting the English governor to dine with him. At the ripe old age of eighty, in the year 1672, he died, and was buried in the family vault within the walls of a church that he had built at his own expense near his country seat. The church is now gone, and in its place, at the corner of Tenth Street and Second Avenue, stands St. Mark's. This, as you will, no doubt, be interested to know, is the oldest church site in ^ew York now occupied by a house of worship." " Older than Trinity? " asked George. " Yes, the latter was not founded until thirty years after Stuyvesant built his church." " When Stuy^'esant was laid to rest, a tablet was. Peter Stuyvesant's tombstone, St. Mark's church, Stuyvosaut Street, corner Second Avenue. Photographed 1900. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 29 placed above his grave. This has been preserved, and has been affixed to the eastern wall of St. Mark's. The inscription," added the professor, referring to his memorandum book, " is as follows: IN THIS VAULT LIES BURIED PETRUS STUYVESANT. LATE CAPTAIN GENERAL AND GOVERNOR IN CHIEF OF AMSTERDAM IN NEW NETHERLAND NOW CALLED NEW YORK, AND THE DUTCH WEST INDIA ISLANDS, DIED IN A. D. 167}4, AGED 80 YEARS. " The date 167^ indicates that he died be- tween the first of January and the 25th of March, 1672." " Is Bouwerie the same as the Bowery? " asked George. " Yes," answered the professor. " Originally it was called Bowery Lane. While Stuyvesant was director an Indian outbreak took place, and the peo- ple living beyond the city wall, being in great dan- ger, were at once ordered either to move into the town or to collect in villages for common protection. Thus a village was formed in the neighborhood of Stuyvesant farm. A country path connected this hamlet with the city, and later on it was made into a carriage road and extended to Harlem. Its start- ing point was about where the post office now stands, whence it followed Park Row and the Bowery up to Fifteenth Street, where it again met Broadway. Along this route the first postman, armed with pis- tols, made his way on horseback once a month to 30 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Boston. It was a risky trip in those days, as there was clanger from Indians and wild beasts. Bowery Lane gradually developed into one of the most im- portant and popular highways of Manhattan Island. It became a favorite drive for the fashionable people at all times of the year, being especially lively in winter, when merry sleigh bells made the crisp air resound with lively sounds of merriment. But now its old-time glory is gone, and only a few relics remain to remind us of its past history. Opposite Rivington Street is a milestone, which, if free from posters, shows the inscription: I MILE TO CITY HALL. " A famous inn stood here in the old days, and it was a custom to accompany a friend starting on the long journey to Boston, as far as this tavern, drink a parting glass of wine with him, and wish him God- speed." "Are there any other old milestones?" asked George. "Yes; the two-mile stone is in Third Avenue near Sixteenth Street, the four-mile near Fifty- seventh Street, the five-mile near Seventy-seventh Street, the nine-mile at One Hundred and Fifty-sec- ond Street and Amsterdam Avenue, and the twelve- mile on the Kingsbridge road, near Inwood. " The Governor's room in the City Hall contains A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 31 an odd and interesting memento of the Bowery. It is a branch of a pear tree that was originally planted in Stnyvesant's orchard. Long after the orchard had been covered by modern lionses, this tree, en- circled by an iron railing, stood at the corner of XZJT -^ -vrr"":y'-1?^'-^'r:^^ J:> tT^^ 'f^jT^^^^^C /■ '- . ,' "'''■';,'/*:"' Ml^i^;-';':^ ■ ■'' r ,M&!-^': rH^: M Vfl^^w|i ^;;^-^'^:^^' ■ ^' '^"^^^^Jm^sE*^^!^ B^rjt i'!jui\i'^IH .'■'J'-' ■ ^ i ', '^•Sk^^^^ T^ rrjir / .^ ^J^- -■ ^ ir^^^^^f^-£!!uJ^x^ 'Mf^^' ^^^M^^^'^M .,--^<-i ■^^^^^^H^^jf ' /^i£^B3u ^i^^ji^ ^^^^^^^^ufflraHnSi ^M^ ^^^^^P^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ml Milestone ou Kingsbridge road. Thirteenth Street and Third Avenue. Many a time have I seen it there, covered with blossoms, just as it used to appear, no donbt, when Stnyvesant looked npon it. One day, in 1867, fnlly two hun- dred years after it was planted, a careless truckman drove his heavy wagon against it and crushed it to the ground, thus ruthlessly ending its existence as a landmark. At the corner where it stood so long, 32 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK a bronze plate has been placed bearing the follow- ing inscrij)tion : ox THIS CORNER GREW PETRUS STUYVESANT'S PEAR TREE. RECALLED TO HOLLAND IN 1664, ON HIS RETURN HE BROUGHT THE PEAR TREE AND PLANTED IT AS HIS MEMORIAL, ■' BY AVHICH," SAID HE, " MY NAME MAY BE REMEMBERED." THE PEAR TREE FLOURISHED AND BORE FRUIT FOR OVER TWO HUNDRED YEARS. THIS TABLET IS PLACED HERE BY THE HOLLAND SOCIETY OF NEW YORK SEPTEMBER 1890. " You said last week you would tell us something about the Indians," said Tom, who had just finished reading The Last of the Mohicans, by Cooper. " Yes," answered the professor, " and this is prob- ably as good a time as any to keep my promise. " When the natives first saw Hudson's boat in the distance they were greatly puzzled. They thought it was a monster canoe with wings whiter than those of a swan, and much wider than those of many eagles. Some imagined it was the Great Spirit coming to visit them from the land of the Rising Sun, and they prepared to give him a proper reception. Presently they ventured out in their little birch canoes, offered A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 33 tobacco and food, and showed by signs that they were ghid to see the palefaced strangers. " The Europeans soon discovered the skill with which the Indians handled their bows and arrows, Stuyvesant's pear tree, formerly at the corner of Thirteenth Street and Third Avenue. From Mary L. Booth's History of the City of New York. and greatly admired the manner in which they could hit the swiftest animals. Oftentimes the visitors arranged shooting contests among the boys. A small 4 34 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK coin placed at a distance of fifty feet the young red- skins would generally hit five times out of ten. " As far as we can judge, the Europeans might have lived at peace with the Indians, but the former soon aroused angry feelings in the breasts of the natives. One day an Indian and his nephew came down toward the town to sell some furs. In the vicinity of Collect Pond, a body of water near the site of the old Tombs prison (Center and Franklin Streets), three of Minuit's farm servants attacked the pair, robbed them of their furs, and killed the older man. The younger, a mere boy, escaped, and, according to the custom of his people, vowed to avenge the death of his uncle. Twenty years later, during the time of Ivieft, he deliberately set out one afternoon to do what he considered his religious duty. He visited the house of a harmless old wheel- wright who lived some distance out of town and pre- tended that he wanted to trade some beaver skins for blankets. While the old man was bending over his box, the Indian struck him a cowardly blow on the head with his axe and killed him. This act led to a terrible war, during which men, women, and children were murdered, their houses burned, and their farms laid waste. The horrors of this time are too awful to repeat, for the Indians, when enraged,, inflict the most cruel tortures on their unfortunate victims." Emily shuddered, while the boys were strangely silent. " Another serious outbreak occurred in Stuy- vesant's time," continued the professor, " Near the A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 35 present site of Trinity church, one Van Dyck had a tine orchard of peach trees. This fruit was new to the Indians, and not being able to resist the tempta- Map uf New iu 1642, drawu "from the best data iu his posses- sion " by D. T. Valentine, compiler of the city's Manuals. tion of tasting it, they often slipped into the orchard at night and stole a few peaches. This practice so vexed Mrs. Van Dyck that she made her husband load his gun and watch for intruders. He had not long to wait. All too soon a slim form crept up to one of the trees and began shaking a limb. Van 36 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Dyck, ^^'ithout uttering a word of warning, raised his piece, aimed and fired. The form dropped and never stirred again. When Van Djck rnshed up to see the result of his shot, he found at his feet the lifeless form of a young Indian girl. Dearly the colony had to pay for this hasty action. Over one hundred settlers were killed, one hundred and fifty taken prisoners, and eighty thousand dollars' worth of property destroyed." " That was an awful price to give for a few peaches," said George impressively. " Yes, indeed," answered the professor. " Many fond mothers and innocent babies w^ere included in that payment of blood." " And it all happened right here in New York? " said Emily, in an incredulous tone. " Here, and in the immediate neighborhood. But let us change the subject to one of peace. I mentioned a few minutes ago, as you know, a pond where the Tombs used to be. This was a beautiful spot originally. AVooded hills surrounded a placid body of water that was thought to 1)e without bot- tom. Near it was a point of land which, when first seen by the Dutch, was covered with shells, left there \)\ the Indians, who used them for making wam])uni, as they designated their money. The Dutch called it Kloch, meaning shell point, which gradually was changed to Collect, and, finally, applied to the little lake itself. In the old days there was a tradition that at midnight, at certain periods, the spirit of an Indian chief crossed the pond, the splash of his pad- dle being easily heard. Of course, this was an idle 38 A LANDMABlv HISTORY OF NEW YORK tale, but many a child believed it firmly. Collect Pond remained a feature of the island for many years, and I shall have occasion to mention it again." " How did the Indians make wampum ? " asked George. " The women were the money-makers. With great patience they dug out the blue parts of clam shells, broke them into small pieces, polished them, drilled them, and then strung them on grass or liemp. These strings were then braided into belts and used as we use dollar bills. Sometimes white shells were employed, but these were not considered as valuable as the blue. The Manahatas, living near the sea, had, so to speak, an unlimited money supply, and be- came one of the wealthiest tribes. " A collection of Indian relics found in this neighborhood can be seen in the Museum of ISTatural History, at Seventy-seventh Street, west of Central Park. Go there the first opportunity you have, and you will find an interesting exhibit. " But let us return to the little Dutch town of New Amsterdam. It nestled below Wall Street, and, although it lacked many conveniences we enjoy to-day, it was a merry place in its way. Stoves, car- pets, and rocking chairs were unknown, but house- warmings were arranged without them, and were hugely enjoyed. Not a fork was to be seen in the entire settlement, but the people managed very well with spoons and knives. Watches and clocks were rarities, but the hourglass kept track of time in their stead. A few silver watches were introduced after a while, but they presently got out of order, and, as 40 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK there were no watch repairers in the town, these timepieces were soon rendered useless. Excepting the director's coach, tliere was no conveyance in ]^ew Amsterdam. People traveled on horseback, and, as there were no sidesaddles in those days, cushions were used for the ladies, who rode behind the gentle- men and held on to them for support." " Must have been a funny sight," said Tom, smiling. " The Dutch were very hospitable," continued the professor; "strangers were always welcome and were well entertained. Quilting bees, apple bees, and husking bees were popular, and dancing was a fa- vorite amusement. Every autumn there was a Ker- mess that lasted six weeks, during which time cattle were exhibited, farm tools were sold, and all sorts of needlework and fabrics displayed, while athletic sports, dances, and other amusements served to enter- tain the young people. You may be surprised to learn that golf was one of the favorite pastimes, and it is recorded that people were arrested for playing it in the streets. "There were several great festivals: Cliristmas, New Year's day, Paas or Passover, and Santa Claus, or Christ-Kinkle day. " Christmas day was observed by wishing every- body ' A Merry Christmas,' after which the young men went out to one of the frozen swamps beyond the town to shoot at turkeys. " On Xew Year's day everybody visited every- body else. Every one, including the stranger with- in the gates, was welcome, and cake and wine were A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 41 freely offered. This hospitable custom was kept up in New York until a few years ago. " On Paas, or Easter Monday, the children cracked colored eggs, and the fancy egg of the pres- ent day is, no doubt, a memento of this once popular holiday. " Of all the festive occasions the most popular, however, especially among the children, was Santa Glaus, or St. Nicholas day, which was celebrated on December 6th. St. Nicholas was the town's patron saint, and he was believed to take special care of his favorite city. lie was supposed to be a jolly, rosy- cheeked little old man, with a low-crowned hat, who came in a well-laden sleigh drawn by reindeer. Stockings were hung up and a hymn was sung, the last four lines of which were: " ' Saint Nicholas, my dear good friend, To serve you ever was my end ; If you me now something will give, Serve you I will as long as I live.' " Gradually, Santa Glaus and Ghristmas time be- came associated, and the visit of the former was not expected until December QHth. Then there was a merry celebration, which good old Dutch custom the people of New York have kept up ever since." CHAPTER III " Generally," said the professor, " when a city is captured tlie people feel a strong sense of resent- ment against the conquerors, but such was not the case when the English took !New Amsterdam in 1664. The Dutch burghers felt that the West India Com- pany had neglected them and treated them badly; the English inhabitants, of whom there were quite a number, were pleased to see their own flag aloft; and the French, who formed the next most important part of the population, were indifferent. Already, as you will notice, there was a decidedly mixed popula- tion, and it would have been as difficult then as now to say who was a typical Manhattanese." " Did the English have any real right to take New Amsterdam? " asked George. " Yes, and no," answered the professor. " They claimed that because the Cabots had sailed along the coast, they (the English) were entitled to the land by right of discovery. On the other hand, the Dutch were the first settlers, and there is no dispute about the fact that they bought the land from the Indians, who certainly were the original owners." " It seems to me, then, that the Dutch had a right to it," remarked Tom. 42 44 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " Such is my view of the case," said the professor; " but in those days might was generally considered right, and so the English remained in possession. " Kicolls, the new governor, was a gentle con- queror and a pleasant gentleman, and tried in every possible way to make his rule popular. The Dutch and the French, as well as the English, were allowed to use the church in the fort, and no effort was made to disturb any of the customs of the old burgliers. After a while English was declared to be the official language, and a mayor, a sheriff, and aldermen took the places of the Dutch officials. About the same time the name of the city was changed from ISTew Amsterdam to l^ew York, in honor of the duke. I have always felt sorry that this change was made, because the city was in reality a Neiv Amsterdam, but never a New York. Fortunately, the good old Dutch name of Harlem was not disturbed, and still serves as a reminder of its true origin. " The second governor was Francis Lovelace, who, like Nicolls, had pleasing ways, and treated the people well. Still, as far as real liberty was con- cerned, they enjoyed little more than when they were under the control of the West India Company. " There is one of Lovelace's acts, however, that deserves special mention, and renders his name worthy of remembrance. Li 1672 he established a postal service between New York and Boston. Tn •Tanuary of that year the first letter carrier mounted his horse and began his journey up the Bowery road toward the village of LTarlem. Here his arrival caused great excitement, and he was treated to some 46 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK home-brewed beer. As he passed on through the woods of Connecticut he marked the trees so as to be able to find his way back. At Hartford he changed horses, and after a tedious trip reached Boston. In the meantime a locked box was kept at a convenient place in the town to receive letters and parcels for the next month's mail. Such was New York's earli- est post office. Have you any idea to what extent it has now grown? " None of us could answer this question. " In 1898," said the professor, " it sold over three hundred millions of stamps and seventy-five millions of postal cards, and instead of a delivery once a month, there are now nine mails a day each way be- tween New York and Boston. It was through Love- lace's postman that the first communication was established between the colonies, and this gradually developed into a bond so firm that, in after years, all England's strength could not break it. " In 1672 war broke out between England and Holland, and one fine day two fierce Dutch captains, Colve and Evertsen, sailed into New York Harbor and ordered the town to surrender, in very much the same manner as Nicolls had done in 1664, the differ- ence being that the Dutch came openly in a period of war, while the English stole in during an era of peace. The latter proved to be no better defenders than the Hollanders, and the two captains were soon in possession of the city, which they quickly converted once more into a Dutch town, calling it by its original name of New Amsterdam. This lasted for little more than a year, when peace was declared, and the city A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 47 [HTlS, The city's seal. was yielded to the English, the Dutch taking Surinam in Guiana instead. Strange to say, both the English and the Dutch believed, after the bargain had been made, that Surinam was the more desirable pos- session. " A privilege was grant- ed the city in 1678 that helped it along prodigious- ly, and has been remem- bered ever since by sym- bolizing it in the city's seal. By the way, can you describe the seal? " " There's a sailor and an Indian," said George. " Correct; and what else? " " An eagle, I think," suggested Tom. " Yes, and several other objects that you have probably never noticed. Here is a copy of the seal," said the professor, taking a paper from his pocket. " Let us examine it carefully. The presence of the beavers you will, no doubt, understand; but what is the meaning of the windmill arms and two barrels? " We did not answer, and awaited an explanation. " In 1678 ISTew York was granted the exclusive right to bolt flour — that is, to sift the coarser from the finer particles — and to pack it for export. This monopoly brought great prosperity to the peojDle, and helped immensely to build up the city. Several hundred new houses were erected in a short time, and many new ships were built. Thus the flour bar- rels and the windmill arms, together with the bea- 48 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK vers, were chosen as symbols to represent the earliest causes of the city's prosperity." "What do the Latin words mean?" asked Tom. " Seal of the City of Xew Ehovacum, the Latin name given by the Ivomans to the town of York in England." " How old is the seal? " asked George. "It was granted in 1686, and then had a crown where now the eagle appears. " The Bolting Act went into force during the rule of Sir Ednmnd Andros, who governed from 1674 to 1682. He was a hot-tempered individual, and became known as ' the Tyrant.' This was hardly fair, as he was no more of an autocrat than those who had preceded him, but it seems that the people expected much greater liberties than the duke was willing to grant. Andros was followed by Thomas Dongan, who remained in office for six years from 1682. Like his master, the duke, he was a Catholic, and for this reason was at first re- garded with suspicion, nearly all the citizens of New York being of the Protestant faith. Cradually, however, his pleasing ways, his justness, and his in- tegrity won the good will of most of the people — a feeling that was strengthened when he announced that he was authorized to grant the colony a li])cral charter. This important grant — since known as the Dongan Charter — forms the basis of our rights as citizens to-day, and it was the first real taste of liberty given to the people. It provided trial by jury, freedom of religion, and taxation only by the consent of those taxed. A copy of the charter, bear- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 49 ing the date of April 22, 1686, is preserved in a tin box in the Citj Hall, where it can be seen by all those who care to look at it. " In 1685 the Duke of York succeeded his brother and became King of England, under the title of James II. After being sure of his place, he threw off the mask of liberality he had worn as duke and showed himself in his true light. He began a series of religious persecutions of the crudest kind, and treated those who opposed his political views with the utmost barbarity. Men were shot or hung without trial, aud women were burned at the stake. Pres- ently ho revoked the charter he had granted New York, and actually wiped the province out of exist- ence by making it a part of Xew England. In order to make this very plain to the people, he ordered the city's seal to be publicly broken and that of New England to be adopted in its place. His reign was a prolonged period of awful cruelties and oppression, and finally, in 1689, the English drove him from the throne." " I am sorry New York was ever named after him," said Emily. '' He surely did not deserve any sucli honor, but there is one satisfaction connected with the name. It suggests York of England, where the civilization of Europe began, and where to-day flourish many splendid institutions of learniug and fine arts. " The dethroneuient of James caused great ex- citement in England and stirred up an extraordinary commotion in New York. ' If the king has fled,' said the people, * then the officials he appointed have 5 50 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK no further power over us; and we no longer feel that we need to obey any one whom he has ap- pointed over us.' All sorts of rumors were soon afloat regarding plots to burn the city and to kill the Protestants. Two parties arose, one eager to dis- charge the old officials without delay, the other de- sirous of awaiting new instructions from England. In the meantime, Mary, daughter of James II, and her husband, William of Orange, a prince of Hol- land, both Protestants, were invited to occupy the throne of England. This piece of news was joy- fully received in ISTew York, but the excitement continued. At length a Committe of Safety was organized, and Jacob Leisler, a respected citizen and captain of one of the militia companies of the city, was chosen to be commander pending the arrival of a new governor. The opposition party rebelled against this act and caused Leisler no end of trouble. Thus the community was in a con- stant turmoil, and once Leisler was almost killed. Einally, toward the end of 1690, Henry Sloughter, a broken-down English adventurer, was appointed gov- ernor, and Richard Ingoldsby lieutenant governor. They set sail for America, but on the way the ships parted comjiany, and Ingoldsby arrived first. He at once ordered Leisler to give up the fort and submit to him. This, Leisler very promptly refused to do, as Ingoldsby had no papers with him to show that he Imd any authority. The situation now grew worse than ever, and the strain became so great that bloodshed was feared. It took Sloughter nearly two months to find New York, and not until the middle A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 51 of March, 1091, did his ship enter the harbor. Leis- ler then resigned his position, but was at once ar- rested and charged with treason. He was found guilty, but Sloughter, whose conscience, no doubt, troubled him, would not sign the death warrant. Leisler's enemies, however, were active, and they knew how to manage Sloughter. One evening they invited him to a banquet, filled him with wine, and obtained his signature. A few days later, Leisler and his son-in-law were led to the gallows, erected, it is believed, where the building of the JSTew York Sun now stands. Here, in a drizzling rain, the two men were executed. It was a terrible scene; men wept, women fainted, and many carried away pieces of Leisler's garments, looking upon him as a martyr." " Poor man ! " said Emily, with tears in her eyes. " Poor in one sense, but great in another," re- marked the professor. " Leisler gave up his life that others might enjoy more happiness. During his rule the people were given greater liberty than they had ever enjoyed before, and the seeds thus sown bore fruit in later years. His name deserves a lasting tribute, and it is to be hoped that some day I^Tew York will erect a fitting memorial to his memory. I must not omit to say that, after a time. Parliament was just enough to remove the stain of treason from his record." " That did not do him much good," said Tom dryly. ^ " No, but it benefited his widow and children, re- moved the blot from his reputation, and restored to 52 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK tliem liis property, which had been confiscated. As for Sloiighter, he did not live long to exert his per- nicious power. In July, 1C91, he died — whether from remorse or drink is not known." "Who was the next governor?" asked George. " Benjamin Fletcher, who arrived in August, 1G92. The people were glad to get rid of their old rider, and welcomed the new one, hoping that he would be better than his predecessor. Fletcher re- ceived a particularly fine welcome, the extravagant sum of one hundred dollars being voted by the city for a banquet in liis honor. The French and their allies, the Huron Indians, became troublesome dur- ing his time and attacked the Iroquois, who were friends of tlie English. The invaders' first move was against Schenectady, after which they intended to capture Albany and l^ew York. Fletcher quickly organized a force, sailed up the Hudson, marched against the French and Indians, and won a decisive victory. The Iroquois, admiring his promptness, called him ' The Lord of the Swift Arrow,' the peo- ple of Albany voted him an address of congratula- tions, and N^ew York presented him witli a beautiful gold cup." "Good!" exclaimed Tom. " A period of improvement now began, and the city showed signs of growth. Fortunately, we have an interesting old map, drawn in 1G95, that illus- trates how the town commenced to spread. Here is a copy of this relic," said the professor, laying the map before us, " and it is well worthy of a little study. New York at this time contained about five ^MIU"- New York in 1695. Reproduced from a copy of the oi'iginal map in the Eev. John MiUor's Description of tlie Province and City of New York as they existed in the Year 1695. 54 A LAND]\FARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK tlioiisaiid people and some seven hundred and fifty houses. The wall, as you see, is clearly indicated, extends over to the North lliver and all the way down to the fort, almost surrounding the old Dutch town. You will notice also that an uptown move- ment had begun, and four new streets appear east of Broadway, the most northern being Maiden Lane. The other three str(^ets — Crown, Smith, and Queen — are now known as Liberty, Cedar, and Pine, liroadway was not yet considered impor- tant, and the two little streets west of it did not amount to nmcli. 'Jlie favorite thoroughfare was Great Queen Street, the road along the river, which at present is called Pearl Street. As you can see, it stretches up beyond Maiden Lane, and in fact it led up to a primitive ferry that ran l)etween Peck Slip aud Fulton Street, Brooklyn. If the ferryman hap- pened not to be at hand, people were expected to blow a horn that liinig on a tree near by, whereupon the master of the boat would leave his plow or his cow, hurry down to the bank, and row his passengers across the river." " How did they chance to call a street Maiden Lane?" asked Emily. "Because in tlic early days it was, in all likeli- hood, a lovers' lane," said the professor; "being a natural path marked by a gentle stream and over- hanging trees. Here, according to some historians, the Dutch maidens washed their linens; according to others, they and their swains wandered up and down on pleasant afternoons and evenings, never dream- ing, it is safe to say, that this road outside of the A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 55 town's wall would ever become a busy street in a great citj. The Dutch called it the Maiden's Path; later it was changed by the English to Maiden Lane. Here are some verses that present a pretty picture of this interesting locality: " ' Down Maiden Lane, where clover grew, Sweet-scented in tlie early air. Where sparkling rills went shining through Their grassy banks, so green, so fair, Blithe little maids from Holland land Went tripping, laughing each to each, To batlie the llax, or spread a band Of linen in the sun to bleach. " ' More than two centuries ago They wore this path — a maiden's lane — Where now such waves of commerce flow As never dazed a burgher's brain. Two hundred years ago and more Those thrifty damsels, one by one, With plump, round arms their linen bore To dry in Mana-ha-ta's sun. "'But now! Behold the altered view: No tender sward, no bubbling stream. No laughter — was it really true, Or but the fancy of a dream? Were these harsh walls a byway sweet, This floor of stone a grassy plain? Oh! vanish, modern city street, And let us stroll down Maiden Lane! ' " The city at the time under consideration was about seventy-five years old, and for twenty-one years had been under the control of the English. Several important changes were now made that are of interest and that are noticeable to this day. I have already told you that the old church in the fort 56 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK served three congregations — tlie Dutch, the English, and the French. This arrangement was no longer considered satisfactory, and each began to look about for a place of its own. As early as 1688 the French Huguenots built a small church where the Produce Exchange now stands, opposite Bowling Green. The Dutch erected their first house of worship in Garden Street, now Exchange Place, in 1693. A great silver baptismal bowl was made for it in Hol- land, and this can be seen at the present day in the church at Fifth Avenue and Twenty-ninth Street, which is the direct descendant of the old congrega- tion in Garden Street. In 1696 the members of the Church of England decided to move uptown and selected the present site of Trinity. In February, 1697, the dedication sermon was preached by the Rev. William Vcsey, whose name has been bestowed on a street that formed a part of the original church property. A special pew was set aside for the mayor and the Council, and every election day a sermon was preached for their special benefit. " During this period a wave of enterprise swept over the little city. Not a single printing press had u]) to this time been established in New York, in wliicli respect both Philadelphia and Boston were in advance of Manhattan. Early in 1693 William Bradford, Philadelphia's printer, got into a quarrel with the Quakers, and New York invited him to transfer his plant. He did so, set up his press at 81 Pearl Street, and ])rinted the laws, almanacs, and many curious pam])hlets, all of which are now eager- ly sought by collectors of old books. A tablet. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 57 which we shall see later, marks the site of Bradford's first office. " The second undertaking was the lighting of the streets. Except when the moon was good enough to shed her beams upon the town, New York was a city of darkness. Now, an order was issued pro- viding that every seventh householder ' in the dark time of the moon ' hang a lantern containing a candle on a pole, the charge to bo equally divided by the tenants of the seven houses. " The third step was the formation of a night watch, consisting of four good and honest inhabit- ants, whose duty it was to watch from nine in the evening until the break of day, to go around the city each hour of the night with a bell, and to call out the hour and the condition of the weather. " Kumors of one of the many wars between France and England having reached New York about this time, the governor ordered a platform to be built on the rocks that jutted out of the water near the fort, to support a battery that w^ould com- mand both rivers. Thus the name Battery came to be applied to this section. The rocks, it is believed, are now under the made ground at Battery Park. The French, fortunately, did not cross the ocean to disturb the peace of New York, and all fear of such an occurrence having passed, the old stockade along AVall Street, being in a dilii])idated condition, was pulled down. " Having made these various improvements in the interest of the city, the authorities began to think of their own dignity and comfort. As the 58 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK old City Hall in Pearl Street was showing signs of decay, tliey proposed erecting a fine new build- ing at the corner of Wall and Broad Streets, where the Subtreasury stands to-day. In 1699 the cor- ner stone was laid with considerable ceremony, and for more than a century this new hall served the purposes of the city. After the Revolution, Con- gress met within its walls, and on its balcony, in the presence of a great assemblage of people, the presi- dential oath was administered to Washington. But, of course, in the year 1699 no one thought of a Presi- dent or a republic, or even of a great city whose population would be counted by the million." CHAPTER IV " Pirates, smugglers, and slave dealers," an- nounced the professor the next time we met, as if he were giving out a text. " I do not wonder," he added, " that you appear surprised, but it is a fact that in the early years of 1700 N^ew York not only permitted but actually welcomed men engaged in all three of the vocations I have mentioned. It was no unusual sight to see fierce, sun-browned individuals, swaggering through the streets, wearing a broad crimson sash across the left shoulder, a laced cap, a fancy jacket, white knick- erbockers, a heavy gold chain, and no less than three or four richly mounted pistols in a gaudy belt. These men, just returned, perhaps, from a cruise in the Indian Ocean, felt quite at home in ISTew York, and were entertained, it is said, in some of its best houses." " How did it all come about? " asked George. " In those days there was very little manufactur- ing in the colonies, and liew York, being a seaport town, was dependent on ocean industries. The merchants engaged in river traffic, sent vessels up and down the coast, and traded with England, Africa, the East and West Indies. Now, every few years 59 60 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK the European nations became involved in war, where- upon the seas were scoured by war ships and pri- vateers, privateering being considered legitimate and perfectly honest. It meant that any man could get a commission to fill a ship with armed men and prey on the merchant vessels of the enemy. But men engaged in this sort of traffic were not overscrupu- lous, and the temptation to attack any vessel, no mat- ter what flag it happened to fly, was sometimes too strong to be resisted; so the step from privateering to piracy was a short and an easy one. Of course, everybody posed as a good, honest privateer, and few questions were asked as to just how the rich silks and other costly products of the Orient were obtained. Furthermore, it was an open secret that some of the most prominent men in the city were interested in these enterprises." "You don't say! " exclaimed Tom. " Yes," said the professor, " but at length matters became so bad that no vessel was safe on the high seas, whereupon King William called a meeting of prominent lords, including Lord Bellomont, who later became Governor of New York, and, pointing- out the audacity with which the pirates roamed the seas, announced that he had formed a company to ex- terminate these pests of the ocean. The plan was to wage war against the pirates and divide the spoils with which their ships were laden. In other words, the king entered into a partnership to prey upon dis- honest privateers, and keep the booty instead of re- turning it to its rightful owners. This extraordi- nary scheme was devised, it is said, because the king A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 61 was very short of money. A man was now wanted to head the expedition, and Bellomont recom- mended Captain William Kidd, of New York, a sea- man of ' tried courage and integrity,' who happened to be in London at the time." The name of Kidd caused the faces of the boys to light up with unusual interest. *' Without delay, the ' true and well-beloved Cap- tain Kidd,' as the king called him, was made com- mander of the fine ship Adventure, in which he sailed from England in May, 1G96, carrying thirty guns and a crew of eighty men. He arrived in New York in due time, increased his crew to one hundred and fifty-five, said good-l)ye to his wife and children, and sailed forth. Time passed, and after a while strange rumors began to circulate. It was whis- pered that Captain Kidd, instead of hunting pirates, had turned pirate himself; in fact, had become a very king of pirates, striking terror into the hearts of many a New York shipowner. In the meantime Bellomont had been appointed Governor of New York. Naturally he was greatly exasperated at Kidd's treachery and hoped for the time when he could catch the false captain. Three years passed, and then, one day, Kidd slipped into Long Island Sound, stopped at one or two places, buried some of his treasure, it is said, and then went on to Boston. He had learned that Bellomont was there, and be- lieved that his old friend would protect him. In this he was mistaken. He was arrested, sent to Eng- land and hanged." "And how about his treasure?" asked Tom. G2 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK " I can not say," said the professor. " Perhaps a little was fonnd, and this was enough to excite any number of people to search in all manner of out-of- the-way places for more. Thus Kidd became an object of great interest, his deeds were magnified, and many ballads were written recounting his ex- ploits. " Smuggling, as I have already mentioned, was another evil of the times. There was a law that al- most every article brought into the colonies must come from England. This was a loss and a hard- ship to the merchants, and tempted them to smuggle. Thus many a piece of French silk, Italian lace, and Indian finery was secretly slipped into New York. Fletcher made no serious efforts to stop smuggling, partly, perhaps, because he thought England was too severe on the colonists, but principally, it is said, be- cause the smugglers bribed him to keep quiet. Fletcher's behavior in reference to these matters caused his recall in 1698, and then came Bellomont." " He was a better governor, was he not? " asked George. " Yes, he was a man of high character and pure motives — a far nobler type than the average gov- ernor. He sided with the Leisler party — that is, with the common people — as against the aristocrats, who wanted to run affairs entirely for their own benefit. One of his first acts was to have the bodies of Leisler and his son-in-law disinterred and buried with honor. Then he began a war against all bribe-takers, pirates, and smugglers. Unfortunately, he died after ruling only three years." A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 63 " How about the slave dealers? " asked Tom. " Oh, yes," said the professor, " I must not for- get to tell you about them. The business of stealing negroes from their native land was considered per- fectly proper and honorable. Ships bearing such pious names as the Good Prophet sailed out of New York and returned with a cargo of human unfortu- nates that were sold like so many beasts of burden at a market near the foot of Wall Street. It was a common thing to find advertisements in the papers describing likely negroes, men and women, just im- ported from the coast of Africa. Often the slaves ran away, whereupon other advertisements appeared offering rewards for the return of the negroes. The number of such servants a family owned was regarded as a sign of wealth and social position. Of course, these negroes were a wild and savage lot when they arrived, and the treatment they received did not im- prove their character. In 1712 some discontented slaves met in an orchard near Maiden Lane and set fire to an outhouse. When the citizens ran to put out the flames, the blacks fired upon them, killing nine and wounding six. Great excitement ensued, the soldiers were called out, a pursuit organized, and twenty-one slaves captured. All of them were exe- cuted — some were hanged, some burned at the stake, and others, suspended in chains, were left to starve." Emily shuddered, while Tom and George looked horrified. " Those were cruel times," continued the pro- fessor, reading their thoughts, " but it must be re- membered that there was no such protection then as 64 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK there is now, and as all sorts of rumors were heard of a terrible plot to murder the citizens, it was deemed necessary to make a telling example of the ring- leaders. Twenty-nine years later, in 1741, there was another scare. Several suspicious fires occurred in quick succession, a robbery was committed, and some of the stolen articles were found in a low tavern owned by whites where negroes used to congregate. The whole family, including servants, was arrested, and, according to the law of the day, sentenced to death. An offer of pardon was made to any of them who would tell the truth. Thereupon, Mary Burton, a wicked white servant, told of a plot on the part of the negroes, who then numbered only two thousand in a total population of twelve thousand, to destroy the town and kill all the people. This was an out-and-out falsehood ; the evil character of Mary was well known, but the citizens were quickly ex- cited, memories of the old plot of 1712 were re- vived, all sorts of stories were believed, and, before the inhabitants came to their senses, fourteen negroes were burned alive, eighteen were hanged, and sev- enty-one transported to various places. Two white persons were also executed — John Hughson, the owner of the tavern, and eTohn Ury, a clergyman. He was supposed to be a Catholic priest who was in league with the blacks and was inciting them to mur- der the Protestants. It was proved that he was not a Catholic, and no connection between him and the blacks was established, but false testimony sent him to the gallows. Such was the fearful result of this foolish scare, and a day of thanksgiving was actu- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 65 allv appointed to celebrate the city's escape from a horrible fate." " Weren't Catholic priests allowed in New York at that time? " asked George. " No ; there was a law that all Catholic priests found in the colony should be condemned to death." "How narrow-minded!" said Emily with feel- ing. ''True," agreed the professor; "but in those days there was great intolerance. Catholic govern- ments persecuted and executed Protestants, and the latter, I suppose, thought they were justified in re- taliating. Of course, it was all wrong — religion should teach men to love one another as brothers, even though they have different ways of worshiping their Almighty Father." " Did you not say something about advertise- ments and newspapers?" asked George. "When was the first newspaper published? " " A very proper question," remarked the pro- fessor. " The first New York newspaper appeared in 1725, and was issued by William Bradford, who was then over sixty years old. It was called The New York Gazette, published once a week, and was supposed to contain all the news. The print, as you can imagine, was not what we see to-day, and in fact the whole paper was a very crude affair, but it paved the way for the great feats of journalism that have since been accomplished by the New York press. " Nine years later, a new paper, called The Weekly Journal, made its appearance, the editor be- ing John Peter Zenger, who had served as an ap- A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 67 prentice inider Bradford. Zenger was led to under- take this enterprise against his ohl master because there was need of a paper to favor the cause of the people, Bradford's Gazette being pledged to the aris- tocrats and the governor. '' The governor, William Cosby, was a despot who sought to deprive the peojile of some of their dear- est privileges. This stirred up a great deal of feel- ing, and the Journal, among whose writers were some of the cleverest men of the day, began to pub- lish articles that attracted widespread attention. Squibs, ballads, and witty items appeared that hit the governor and his friends very hard. These paper bullets at last irritated Cosby to such an extent that he had Zenger thrown into prison on a charge of printing false, scandalous, and seditious matter, and at the same time he ordered the city's hangman pub- licly to burn certain copies of the paper. The judge of the court was a strong friend of Cosby, and could be depended on to treat the prisoner with the utmost severity. Zenger had the best two lawyers in the town to defend him, but by a trick they were de- clared in contempt and forbidden to act. There l)eing no other New York lawyer that could be hired, the enemies of Zenger thought they had him com- pletely at their mercy. " The trial took place in August, 1735. A great crowd filled the court room, and listened eagerly to the charge made by the attorney-general. When he had finished tliere was a stir among the people, which was followed by a murmur of surprise when a fine-looking, white-haired man arose and said he 68 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK was there to defend the prisoner. He was instantly recognized as Andrew Hamilton, of Philadelphia, who, though eighty years of age, was acknowledged to be one of the ablest lawyers of the country." " Good! " said Tom, who loved fair play. " Hamilton asked to have a chance to prove the truth of all that had been published. This was the last thing in the world the other side wanted, and the judge refused the request. Hamilton cleverly turned this refusal to his own advantage in speaking to the jury. A long argument now followed be- tween the attorney-general and Hamilton, in the course of which the latter claimed, in a fine speech, that every freeman had a right to complain against abuses of power and to preserve the blessings of lib- erty. He pointed out that this was not the case merely of a poor printer, nor of New York alone, but one that would affect every citizen that lived under the British Government in America. In con- clusion, he explained to the members of the jury that their verdict would decide whether men had the right to oppose the acts of tyrants by speaking and writing the truth! "■ The speech of the venerable lawyer was listened to with the closest attention. The jury, after a few words from the judge, then withdrew, and in a short time returned with a verdict of not guilij/! " " Hurrah ! " shouted the boys, while Emily clapped her hands. " That's the way the verdict w^as received in the court," said the professor, smiling. " The judge tried to sto]) the shouting, but nobody paid any at- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 69 tention to him. As to Hamilton, the grand old man who had thus established the liberty of the press, he was cheered, banqueted, and presented with the free- dom of the city, the certificate being inclosed in a beautiful gold box. When, a day or two later, he departed for Philadelphia, nearly the whole popula- tion turned out to do him honor." " What do you mean by the freedom of the city? " asked George. '' It is a special mark of appreciation conferred on a non-resident for public services, and entitles him to all the rights and jirivileges of a citizen. " You have, no doubt, noticed," continued the professor, " that some of the governors sent over by England were not very desirable persons. In fact, with the exception of a few, they were unsucessful men who expected to repair their broken fortunes in the colonies. N^aturally, they thought less of the welfare of the people than of their own affairs. One, C(n-nbury, indulged in the silly habit of wearing women's clothes; while another, Osborne, having lost his Avife, imagined that a change of scene would benefit him. This sort of treatment on the part of England, of course, was felt by the colonists, but, for a time, matters of greater importance absorbed their attention. " The French, having established flourishing set- tlements in Canada, and having made friends with the Indians, were pushing westward and southward, and were actually planning to take !N"ew York. Montcalm, the French general, was quick, shrewd, and successful; the English generals were slow, con- 70 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK ceited, and unsuecessfiil. At Tieonderoga, in 1758, not heeding the advice of American sokliers, whom he looked npon with contempt, Abercrombie sac- rificed two thousand brave men At length a new ,/jf^ /..^.i:^» i^ ' f^^'^i i_-W'f ^ % i t jfu View of the fort about the year 1750. From an old print in Valentine's Manual for 1862. commander, Wolfe, was sent over, and he turned the tide of affairs. Under his able leadership, Que- bec, situated on its high rock and considered im- pregnable, was ca])tured in 1759. Both command- ers fell in this attack, and both were deejdy mourned, for they were gallant and able generals. Thus Can- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 71 ada came into the hands of the English, the Indians for the time being were cowed, and New York was safe. " In its small way, New York was now qnite a line town. True, its entire population was less than the attendance at any popular football match of to-day, and one did not need to walk very far along Broad- way, north of Trinity, to reach the country; but there was plenty of spirit and enterprise, and the people felt that they ought to have the best in the way of education. Accordingly, a college was sug- gested. Trinity church helped along the project from the beginning, and as early as 175-1 a class met in a schoolhouse belonging to the church. Then Trinity jDresented the trustees with some land form- ing part of a large tract west of Broadway, that had been granted to it by Queen Anne. The college tract lay between Barclay and ]\Iurray Streets, and extended to the Hudson River, ' in the skirts of the city,' as an old paper puts it. In 1756 the corner stone was laid, and in 1760 the buildings began to be used. This was the l^eginning of Columbia Col- lege, originally called King's College." " Why did they change the name? " asked George. " Because, after the Kevolution the people hated everything that suggested royalty so much that they would not tolerate a King's College, or a Queen, a Crown, or a Duke Street. " Just before the meddling and blundering acts devised by young King George III, and his short- sighted advisers brought matters to a crisis, New 72 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK York was a sort of little London. The governor rep- resented the king, and with his officers made up a petty court, where the aristocrats loved to assemble. The governor's coach was a magnificent affair, drawn by four or six horses, his lackeys wore fine liveries, and the harness used for state occasions was remark- ably elegant. Without doubt the town was putting on lots of airs. " The fashionable promenade was the Mall in the neighborhood of Trinity church. Here, on fine afternoons, while one of the military bands played, the young ladies of the town, accompanied by officers in scarlet coats and gold lace, or by gayly dressed young men, walked leisurely up and down, the young ladies being followed by their negro waiting maids. It was generally understood that the ' common peo- ple ' were not to use this particular promenade." " What a piece of impertinence ! " said Emily. " The common people at that time — that is, the mechanics and such like — wore big leather aprons, while the upper classes dressed in what we would now call fancy costumes. " There was a little theater in Xassau Street that was patronized by the fashionables. The play began at half past six, but long before that hour the place was filled, not by those who were to see the perform- ance, but by their negro slaves, who were sent early to secure good seats. Thus for hours this curious assemblage sat silent in semi-darkness, disa]ipearing just before the tiuu^ the curtain was about to rise. "Up to 1765, I venture to say, young King George had no more loyal subjects in all his kingdom A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 73 than riglit here in New York. The men were faith- ful, and many of the women thonght no higher honor eonld befall them than to marry an English officer. But in those days an idea prevailed that a colonist was not so good as a man who lived on English soil, and did not have the same rights. Taxes had been levied from time to time, but not regularly or offen- sively. Now, a tax was proposed that was to be vig- orously collected — a stamp to be affixed to all sorts of paper, even to a marriage license. It was as if the mother country were about to put her hand in the colonists' pockets and spend their money without asking them. Englishmen at home would not stand such treatment, and English subjects in America saw no reason why they were not entitled to the same privileges. The Stamp Act was presently repealed, as were other obnoxious laws, but not until the mis- chief had been done and the breach irretrievably made." CHAPTER V " We are now ready," said the professor at our next meeting, " to take a look at New York as it appeared just before the Revolution, when it was still an English town, but when the spirit of irri- tation and discontent had become decidedly notice- able." Accordingly, we boarded an elevated train and rode down to Battery Park. Here the professor called our attention to the big flag pole near the new Barge Office, and asked us to bear it in mind in con- nection with the evacuation of the city by the Eng- lish after the Revolutionary War. " Let us now cross to the Third Avenue road," he suggested, " and ride over to Hanover Square." " Wliy was it called Hanover Square?" asked Emily. " In honor of King George I, who was of the house of Hanover." Having entered the train, we soon were made aware of tlie crookedness of the city's old streets by a series of sudden twistings and turnings. Just as we rounded the second curve the pro- fessor called our attention to " Canal-boat village," consisting of a flotilla of flat-topped boats moored to 74 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 75 one of the long piers of Coenties Slip, near the site of the old Dutch City Hall. " Those boats come all the way from Buffalo," said our guide. " They each carry, besides a load of some eight thousand bushels of wheat, or its equiva- lent, the captain of the boat, his family, three helpers, three horses, and a dog. They are comfortable float- ing houses and well worth a visit. Try to remember about these boats when we come to the interesting story of the Erie Canal." " What park was that near the boats? " asked Emily. " Jeanette Park, named after the ship sent to the arctic regions by the New York Herald." A few minutes later we arrived at Hanover Square. " This," said the professor, " was the business center of the city about the year 1765 — the shop- ping district where ladies came in search of bargains, if such attractions existed at that time. In its way, it was a bustling quarter and, without doubt, pre- sented a more varied and striking scene than our streets offer to-day, the ornamental sedan chair adding its old-world picturesqueness to the surroundings. It was also the first Printing House Square, where news a week or more old was made public." " What's that fine building? " asked George. " That is the Cotton Exchange. New York's first newspaper was issued where it stands, as you can see by consulting the tablet." We crossed over to the spot indicated and George read the inscription, which is as follows: 76 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK ON THIS SITE WILLIAM BRADFORD, APPOINTED PUBLIC PRINTER, APRIL IOth, A. D. 1693, ISSUED, NOVEMBER 8th, A. D. 1725, THE NEW YORK GAZETTE, THE FIRST NEWSPAPER PRINTED IN NEW YORK. ERECTED BY THE NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY, APRIL 10th, a. D. 1893, IN COMMEMORATION OF THE 200th ANNIVERSARY OF THE INTRODUCTION OF PRINTING IN NEW YORK. "What's the Historical Society? " queried Tom. " A society founded in 1804 for preserving historical material. The principal organizer was John Pintard,wlio as early as 1700 established an American Museum. A highly interesting and valuable collection can be seen at the society's house, corner of Second Avenue and Eleventh Street." AVhile we were talk- ing, our guide led us south- ward along Pearl Street, the narrowness of which is very suggestive of the days when ISTew York was 81 we found a tablet, fas- tened to the jamb of the doorway, containing the followiiiii' lecend: New York Historical Society, Eleventh St. and Second Ave. a small town. At I^o. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 77 ON THIS SITE WILLIAM BRADFORD, APPOINTED PUBLIC PEINTER APRIL 10th, a. D. 1693, ESTABLISHED THE FIRST PRINTING PRESS IN THE COLONY OF NEW YORK. ERECTED BY THE NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY, APRIL 10th, a. D. 1893, IN COMMEMORATION OF THE 200th ANNIVERSARY OF THE INTRODUCTION OF PRINTING IN NEW YORK. " These two plates," remarked the professor, " commemorate, as you see, the establishment of printing in the colony and the issue of the first news- paper — two very important events. Other journals were subsequently launched, and they all played a more or less important part during the time of unrest that preceded the Ivevolution. " We are now al)out ready to turn our attention to that exciting and momentous period, but before doing so let us go over to Bowding Green," suggested the professor, " and see what changes have occurred since our previous visit." Following Stone Street, we soon reached the Green, and, seating ourselves within the little park, listened to the professor's remarks. 78 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " In 17G5 the fort was still over yonder where the steamship otticcs nsed to be, bnt red-coated sentries paced up and down instead of Stn^wesant's old Dutch defenders. This space was no longer open ground, but was a veritable bowling green, with an iron rail- ing around it, which remains to this day with the ex- ception of the top balls. The latter were broken off and used by the Americans during the Revolution. As to the bowling, permission had been granted as early as 1732 to certain residents of Broadway to use the plot for that purpose. Some of the old Dutch houses Avere gone, and at ISTo. 1, where now that tall office building towers up, a broad, spacious mansion, known as the Kennedy House, was located, a house of many historic associations, as you will learn." " Whose statue is that? " asked George, point- ing to the bronze figure that now adorns Bowling Green. " Abraham de Peyster, son of a leading Dutch merchant of N^ew Amsterdam. ITe was one of Leis- ler's supporters, was appointed mayor in 1G91, and afterward became one of the judges of the Supreme Court. " It is now high time," said the professor, chang- ing the subject, " to introduce vou to the Sons of Lib- erty." " Who were they? " asked Tom. "Just about what tlicir name implies; but, curi- ously enough, the expression came from England. One day, while the Stamp Act was being debated in the House of (\»nmions, Barre, friend and companion of Wolfe, the hero of Quebec, in a rousing speech, Site of Fort Amsterdam, directly south of Bowling Green. Cleared to make room for the new Customhouse. The building to the left is No. 1 Broadway. Photographed 1900. 80 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK justified the Sons of Liberty, as lie called the Ameri- cans, in feeling aggrieved at the treatment they had received. The name was caught up as if it were a magic term. It spread through the colonies and was adopted by a secret order, composed of men who were determined not to yield the rights they had won, and to which they felt they were en- titled. " Had you lived in New York in the autumn of 1705 you woukl have seen exciting times. The thought that the Stamp Act was to be enforced was in everybody's mind, and had you joined any group of citizens you would, no doubt, have heard them protesting that they were just as good and just as loyal as the subjects of the crown who lived in England. You would also, I believe, have heard them say that the constitution of England provided that its people could be taxed only with their consent, but that the colonists had never been consulted about this tax, and that, therefore, it w^as unconstitutional and ought to be resisted." " That's right," remarked Tom. " You must remember," continued the professor, " in order to understand the situation clearly, that at tliis time there were four classes of people in New York: First, the king's officials, officers, and sol- diers; second, a large number of Americans, known as Tories or Loyalists, who sided with the king and Parliament; third, the Moderates, who were op- posed to all unjust measures, but were very conserva- tive in their ideas; and, fourth, the Hot-heads, who wanted to do all sorts of wild deeds." A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 81 " To which class did the Sons of Liberty belong? " asked Tom. " To the Hot-heads, most assuredly," answered the professor; " but, to be perfectly fair, I must say that the Liberty Boys meant well, even if they were impulsive. Among them, too, were many irrespon- sible fellows who were always ready to take part in any demonstration for or against the king, and help on any mischief that was afoot. " The month of October was an exciting period, especially after a vessel had been sighted off Sandy Hook, which was known to contain a shipment of the hated stamps. Colden, the lieutenant governor, had his hands full, and Gage, the military commander, had to be very diplomatic. " Mysterious posters now suddenly appeared threatening any one found using the stamps, and lively ballads were sung in the streets. Here's a verse from one," continued the professor, drawing out a little memorandum book from his pocket: " ' With the beasts of the wood we'll ramble for food And lodge in wild deserts and caves. And live, poor as Job, on the skirts of the globe Before we'll submit to be slaves, brave boys, Before we'll submit to be slaves! ' " " That's a good one," remarked Tom. " The next im})ortant step was a meeting of merchants at a popular place on Broadway known as Burns's Tavern, where a resolution was passed called the ' Non-Importation Agreement,' which pro- vided that no more goods were to be purchased from England. Orders were immediately canceled, and 7 82 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK a host of English merchants suddenly fonnd a large portion of their business gone. In the meantime, men and women wore simple home-made clothes, and denied themselves many luxuries that they had been in the habit of getting from the mother country. " If you will now take a short walk with me," continued the professor, '' I shall point out to you the memorial that commemorates the beginning of the Stamp Act troubles." We arrived presently at Xo. 115 Broadway, and here George performed his usual duty, reading the following inscription : THE SITE OF THE OLD HISTORIC I)e LAXCEY HOUSE; AFTERWARD THE " CITY HOTEL." THE TAVERN LOCATED HERE HAD VARIOUS PROPRIETORS BY WHOSE NAMES IT WAS SUCCESSIVELY CALLED, BEING AMONG OTHERS KNOWN AS "the PROVINCE ARMS," "THE CITY ARMS " AND " BURNS COFFEE HOUSE OR TAVERN." IT WAS HERE THAT THE CELEBRATED NON-IMPORTATION AGREEMENT IN OPPOSITION TO THE " STAMP ACT " WAS SIGNED OCT. 3]ST, 1765. ERECTED BY THE HOLLAND SOCIETY OF NEW YORK, MARCH, 1890. " At last the fateful November 1st arrived, the date when the Stamp Act was to go into operation. The stamps had come, but Golden kept them locked up for the time being. That evening the Liberty Boys assembled on The Common, or The Fields, as City Hall Park was then called, and held a stormy meeting. The park at that time was a A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 83 large open space where the people met on all sorts of occasions. To nij mind, it is a spot that every American, and especially every jSTew York man, woman, and child, ought to cherish and respect. I always think of it as Liberty Park, for it is closely associated with all the early struggles against op- pression. " Had you been in the crowd that autumn evening you would have seen through the glimmer of torch- lights a gallows on which hung a stuffed figure of Colden, and another beside it to represent the devil. After a while a noisy procession was formed that marched down Broadway, carrying the gallows and the effigies past St. Paul's, Burns's Tavern, and Trin- ity. In front of the fort, not many blocks from this spot, it halted. " Then you would have had a good chance to notice the leaders: Colonel John Lamb; hot-headed Isaac Sears, called King Sears; shrewd Alexander McDougall; lawyer John Morin Scott, and patriot Marinus AVillett." " What did they do next? " asked Tom, his eyes bright with excitement. "They cheered and they jeered; they dared the commander to fire upon them; they placed the gal- lows against the fort gate and hammered the doors with clubs. Then they brought the stuffed figures forward, and with them the governor's coach, which they had taken from his stable near by, and set the whole afire." "And what did the governor do?" asked George. 84 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " Pie acted with great moderation," answered tlie professor; " so did General Gage, wlio bad command of the fort. INTo one was punished, and a promise was given that no stamps shoukl be issued until further instructions came from England. As a mat- ter of fact, in March, 1766, a new ministry entered into power with Pitt at its head, and the obnoxious act was soon repealed. Everybody was happy, especially the Liberty Boys, who went wild with joj. " On June 4th, the anniversary of the king's birthday, a great jubilee was held on the Commons, the English flag floated in the breeze, the band played ' God save the King,' and a pole bearing a shield with the words ' The King, Pitt, and Liberty ' was erected. Any one with half an eye could have seen that the colonists thus celebrating, were loyal, and if there had been no more meddling there might have been no more trouble. " The soldiers, however, were not disposed to re- main quiet. They were supposed to be the protectors of the colony, but such were their feelings against the people that they looked upon the Liberty pole erected on the Common as a symbol of triumph not to be tol- erated. Accordingly, one night in August they cut it down. Another pole was immediately set in its place, and this was also cut down. A third met with a similar fate. By this time the citizens were in a state of fury, and more determined than ever to have their pole. A fourth was thereupon erected and fastened with iron braces. This was unmo- lested until January, 1770, when, at midnight, it A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 85 was pulled down by the redcoats and sawed into ])ieces." " What a shame! " exclaimed Emily. " The outrage was discovered the next morning, and the news spread like waldiire. Great excitement followed, especially when the following day (Jan- uary 18th) Sears came upon three soldiers in the act of posting up some scurrilous placards abusing the Sons of Liberty. Sears and a companion ar- rested two of them and started to take them to the mayor's office. A re-enforcement of twenty sol- diers with drawn swords and bayonets now rushed up to the rescue of their comrades, and a num- ber of citizens flocked to the spot armed with stakes. " The mayor then appeared on the scene and or- dered the soldiers to their barracks. The latter re- tired to Golden Hill (John Street near William), and there, making a stand, charged the people, few of whom had weapons, and a bloody fight took place in which several individuals on both sides were wounded. " The next day the soldiers began the conflict again by thrusting a bayonet through the dress of a woman who was returning from market. This cow- ardly act aroused the indignation of the citizens anew. Later, a party of sailors, who generally sided with the citizens, came into collision with some redcoats, and a sailor w^as run through the body. In the afternoon the soldiers insulted several citizens and more trouble followed, in the course of which the troops were driven back to their barracks. Thus 86 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK ended the battle of Golden Hill, a figlit for a prin- ciple, in which the first blood in the War of the Revolution was shed." "Was that before the Boston massacre?" asked George. " ISTearly two months before, and it was a much more important affair." " Hurrah for New York ! " shouted Tom. The professor smiled at Tom's enthusiasm, and continued by informing us that the Sons of Lil)erty now raised a fifth pole — a great high staff with a vane at the top bearing the simple but significant word — Liberty. It was not molested. "Is there a tablet at Golden Hill?" asked George. " Yes," answered the professor, " and it may be well to visit it at once. We shall have to retrace our steps several times to see the tablets of this period in their proper order; but, I presume, you will not mind a little additional walking? " No objection was made. The professor turned into Maiden Lane on reaching that interesting street, and we took great pleasure in passing down the old Dutch path so suggestive of romantic associations. Entering William Street and going northward one block, we paused at John Street. " This is Golden Hill," remarked the professor. " Why was it so called? " asked Emily. " Because originally it was a sloping field of grain that looked like gold in the sunshine. The hill is still here, and perhaps plenty of gold, but not the kind that gave the historic place its name." A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 87 At the northwest corner of the two streets we found a small plain tablet bearing these noteworthy words : GOLDEN HILL. HERE JANUARY 18, 1770, THE FIGHT TOOK PLACE BETWEEN THE " SONS OF LIBERTY " AND THE BRITISH REGULARS, 16th FOOT. FIRST BLOOD IN THE WAR OF THE REVOLUTION. ERECTED BY THE SONS OF THE REVOLUTION. " There onght to be a fine marble monument here," said Tom. " There's not enough room, but one ought cer- tainly to be placed in City Hall Park, in memory of the first liberty poles." "Who are the Sons of the Kevolution? " asked George. " A society intended to keep alive the patriotic spirit of the men who in military, naval, or civil service, by act or counsel, achieved American in- dependence. To become a member a man must be at least twenty-one years old and be descended from an ancestor who in one form of service or another assisted in establishing American independ- ence. " Suppose we now take a look at the place where the Sons of Liberty used to gather," added the pro- fessor. The suggestion was enthusiastically received, and 88 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK walking up John Street, past the First Methodist Church, we turned into Broadway once more and soon reached the big post-office building, wherein we found a handsome bronze plate inscribed as fol- lows : ON THE COMMON OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK NEAR WHERE THIS BUILDING NOW STANDS THERE STOOD FROM 1766 TO 1776 A LIBERTY POLE ERECTED TO COMMEMORATE THE REPEAL OF THE STAMP ACT IT WAS REPEATEDLY DESTROYED BY THE VIOLENCE OF THE TORIES AND AS REPEATEDLY REPLACED BY THE SONS OF LIBERTY WHO ORGANIZED A CONSTANT WATCH AND GUARD. IN ITS DEFENCE THE FIRST MARTYR BLOOD OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION WAS SHED ON JAN. 18, 1770. A. D. 1897 ERECTED BY THE MARY WASHINGTON COLONIAL CHAPTER, DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION. "■ Who are the Daughters of the American Revo- lution? " asked Emily. " Sisters, cousins, or aunts of the Sons, I im- agine," answered the professor; " at any rate the rules of admission are the same, except that a Daugh- ter can become a member at eighteen, while a Son must be twenty-one." Emerging from the building at one of the up- town exits, we saw the park before us. " This was the Common, a big open space, not as attractive as it is now, but none the less sacred ground. ]^o tall structures surrounded it, no swift- ly moving cars glided by, no fountain graced a well- kept lawn — it was blank and barren; soldiers' bar- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 89 racks occupied the upper end along Chambers Street, a workhouse and a powder magazine being near by. A new jail, called the Bridewell, was sit- uated just to the west of the spot where the City Hall now stands, and to the northeast was the Provost or Debtors' Prison. There it still stands," said the pro- fessor, pointing to the Hall of Records. " We shall pay it a visit later. " During the ten distressing years that intervened between the passage of the Stamp Act and the begin- ning of the Revolution many remarkable meetings took place on the Common, and at one of these, held in July, 1774, Alexander Hamilton, then but a youth of seventeen, made an address. His slight figure and boyish appearance at once aroused curiosity, but he was so startled at the sea of strange faces before him that at first he faltered. Gradually, however, gathering courage, he warmed up to his theme; thoughts of wrongs and oppression that had long been in his mind found expression in such strong, clear, and thrilling words, that when he finished, for a moment, there was breathless silence, and then exclamations of wonder at his youth and praise of his extraordinary eloquence were heard on all sides. " In spite of various forms of oppression, the people continued loyal, and in 1770, as a token of their gratitude for the repeal of the Stamp Act, they erected in Bowling Green a leaden statue of King George on horseback, very much in appear- ance like that of Washington in Union Square. They also placed a marble figure of Pitt in Wall 90 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Street near William, which bore these significant words : THIS STATUE OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE WILLIAM PITT EARL OF CHATHAM, WAS ERECTED AS A PUBLICK TESTIMONY OF THE GRATEFUL SENSE THE COLONY OF NEW YORK RETAINS OF THE MANY EMINENT SERVICES HE RENDERED AMERICA, PARTICULARLY IN PROMOTING THE REPEAL OF THE STAMP ACT, ANNO DOM. MDCCLXX. "What became of Pitt's statue?" asked Emily. " It was mutilated, as you will learn before long, and finally, after a varied career, it found an honor- able resting place in the hall of the New York His- torical Society. " Young King George had not forgotten his de- feat in connection with the Stamp Act, and he now foolishly decided to get revenge. Accordingly, he had a new measure passed taxing tea, which was a sort of challenge to see what the colonies would do about it. They treated it as it deserved, and New York indulged in a little Tea Party." " Was that before or after the Boston Tea Party?" asked George. " After. It appears that the ship intended for New York, the Nancy, was driven out of her course, A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 91 and did not reacli here until April, 1774, four months after the Boston tea episode. The ISTancy, according to an article in one of the papers of the day, was said to have something on board worse than a Jonah. A committee of the Sons of Liberty took her in charge and kept her down the bay. In the meantime an- other ship, the London, arrived. Her captain said he had no tea on board, but the Liberty Boys found eighteen chests. These they opened, poured the tea into the river, and, after two hours of quiet amuse- ment of this sort, dispersed in good order." " What became of the Nancy? " asked George, " She was sent back to England with her whole cargo. of tea, and the untruthful captain of the Lon- don was sent along. Here is a poetic sentiment of the time that may interest you," added the professor, referring to his note-book. " ' When a certain great king, whose initial is G., Forces Stamps upon paper, and folks to drink Tea; When these folks burn his tea and stampt paper like stub- ble— You may guess that this king is then coming to trouble.' " And here is another: " ' At this time arose a certain King Sears, Who made his study to banish our fears; He was without doubt a person of merit, Great knowledge, some wit, and abundance of spirit; Could talk like a lawyer, and that without fee, And threaten'd perdition to all who drank tea.' " King George was now very angry at the Ameri- cans, and especially at the people of Boston, because he thought they were more disobedient than the citi- 02 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK zens of other cities. Accordingly, he made up his mind to punish Boston, and at the same time show the other colonies that he was master. In April, 1774, he managed to get Parliament, not without considerable opposition, however, to pass an act shut- ting up Boston as a port and annulling the charter of Massachusetts. This meant the destruction of all shipping business for the city and the appointment of a governor with despotic power for the Common- wealth. When this piece of news became known a wave of indignation spread through the colonies, and a feeling of sympathy with unhappy Boston stirred every patriotic heart. There had been jealousies and quarrels among the colonies before, but now a bond of brotherhood was created that grew stronger from day to day. '' I need scarcely tell you, I presume," continued the professor, " what occurred on April 19, 1775? " " The battle of Lexington," answered Emily, George, and Tom, in one breath. " Correct," said the professor. '" Four days later, on Sunday afternoon, a dust-stained horseman dashed furiously down Broadway with the news of that world-changing battle. You can imagine the effect of his information as it was repeated by one excited group to another. ]^ew York was still in the hands of the Tories, but the patriots were quick to act. Forgetting all about the Sabbath, a band of Liberty Boys marched down to the City Flail in Wall Street, forced open the doors and took six hundred muskets, which they distributed among the more active citizens, who formed themselves into A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 93 a volunteer corps and assumed the government of the city. " To find the next historic site of special interest," continued the professor, " we'll have to go back almost to the spot whence we started, but we shall be well repaid for our pilgrimage." In passing along Nassau Street, which, as we were informed, was once known as Piewoman's Lane, our guide began describing to us a memorial of what he termed " one of the most extraordinary acts of daring patriotism on record." He stopped us at the corner of Broad and Beaver Streets, before a handsome tablet, and George, with- out waiting, bciian to read: TO COMMEMORATE THE GALLANT AND PATRIOTIC ACT OF MARINUS WILLETT IN HERE SEIZING, JUNE 6th, 1775, FROM BRITISH FORCES THE MUSKETS WITH WHICH HE ARMED HIS TROOPS. THIS TABLET IS ERECTED BY THE SOCIETY OF THE SONS OF THE REVOLUTION. NEW YORK, NOV., 1892. Born, July, 1740. Marinus Willett. Died Aug., 1830. Officer of New York Militia 1775-78. Sheriff op New York 1784-92. Mayor of New York 1807-8. President of Electoral College 1824. " Notice the fine medallion of Willett," said the professor, " and the surprisingly clear picture of the troops, the houses, and the view of the City Hall at the end of Broad Street." "What is the story? " asked Tom. " A committee of one hundred patriots was in charge of the city at the time. In the harbor lay the 94 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK British frigate Asia, ready to convey a regiment of soldiers from the fort to Boston. A curiously con- fused state of peace and war now ex- isted. J^o opposition was to be made to the landing of Brit- ish troops, but force was to be met with force. Meanwhile, permission was given to the regiment to depart, but with such arms only as the men carried on their persons. In other words, a ISFew York committee was dic- tating to British troops what they should be allowed to do. " On June 6, 1775, the soldiers marched along here on their way to the wharf, and numy people were out to see them leave, say- ing in their hearts, ' Good riddance! ' Suddenly the rumbling of carts was heard, and when they came into view it was seen that they contained stacks of Marinus Willett tablet, ronu'i- Broad and Beaver Streets. Photographed 1900. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 95 arms. ISToticing this, Mariniis Willett stepped boldly forward and stopped the horse of the first cart. Im- mediately the major galloped up to see what was the matter, whereupon Willett told him that he had no authority to carry off the arms in the wagons. " A discussion then took place, the upshot being that Willett jumped into the cart, turned it about, and, followed by the others, made his way up Broad- way amid a constant accompaniment of cheers. The arms were safely put away, and afterward used by the first patriot troops raised in New York. The tablet tells you of Willett's subsequent honors, to which may be added the interesting item that two of our streets have been named after him — Willett and Sheriff Streets. " The year 1775 continued to be a time of almost constant excitement and every one was restless and uneasy. Representatives of the different colonies were in session at Philadelphia, and all sorts of meas- ures were being considered. At length a resolution was passed recommending each colony to organize companies of militia. A corps was formed in jSTew York called The Hearts of Oak, the members of which wore green uniforms and leather caps bearing the significant inscription, Freedom or Death. Every day a drill took place and a crowd of enthusiastic citi- zens gathered to see the young men display their knowledge of military tactics. " The Hearts of Oak soon had a taste of gunpow- der. They had been ordered by the Committee of Safety to remove the cannons from the Battery, and while they were thus occupied a boat from the Eng- 96 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK lisli man-of-war Asia approaclied, intendinp:, it was siii^iDosed, to interfere with the work. Without stop- ping to think of consequences, some one fired at the boat, which immediately returned a broadside, kill- ing one of the youthful militiamen. " The result of this incident was a violent commo- tion, and crowds of Liberty Boys traversed the streets threatening every adherent of the crown with per- sonal violence. One party made its way to King's College to seize the person of the president, Doctor Cooper, who was known to be a Tory. Alexander Hamilton and a few others, discovering the destina- tion of the crowd, rushed forward and mounted the stoop. Young Hamilton, in order to give the presi- dent a chance to escape, began an earnest speech. He was progressing splendidly when the doctor, looking out of an upper window and thinking that the young- orator was trying to incite the populace, cried out, 'Don't listen to him, gentlemen; he is crazy, he is crazy! ' The effect may be imagined. Hamilton found it difficult to keep from laughing, but he man- aged in spite of the startling interruption to hold his audience long enough to permit the terrified doctor to make good his escape to a war vessel in the harbor. " The situation kept growing worse and worse, reconciliation at length became an impossibility, and, as a last resort, it was solemnly and regretfully de- cided to sever the bond that united the colonies with the mother country and to proclaim independence. " Five days later the stirring words of that im- mortal proclamation were read to the troops assem- bled near the Liberty pole on the Common. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 97 " On the west wing of our present City Hall," continued tlie professor, " you can see a tablet refer- ring to the great event, which bears this inscription: NEAR THIS SPOT IN THE PRESENCE OF GENERAL GEORGE WASHINGTON THE DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE WAS READ AND PUBLISHED TO THE AMERICAN ARMY JULY 9, irrc. " Of course, you know," said the professor, " that Thomas Jefferson's gifted pen Avrote this w^onderful Declaration, but as N'ew- Yorkers you ought to bear in mind that one of the com- mittee that assisted him in his work was Robert R/Liv- ingston, of whose career his country and his State may well be proud. At this time, it is proper also to mention the name of Thomas Paine, an Englishman, who resided for many years in New York. In January, 1776, he issued a pamphlet called Common Sense, in which he advo- cated separation and independence. It immediately became popular, its circulation reached an astonish- ing figure, and it undoubtedly helped greatly to pave the way for the great step. 98 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " The readiiic,- of the Declaration of Independ- ence was an inspiring occasion. All the troops of the city were present, formed in a hollow square. Presently Washington and his staff rode into the center, and the immortal words were read, A burst of applause arose from the assemblage when the last sentence was uttered. Then the citizens, moved by a sudden impulse, rushed down to the City Hall in Wall Street, tore off the portrait of George III that was hanging there, and trampled upon it. Not to be outdone, the soldiers gathered at Bowling Green and pulled down the king's statue. Later, the British troops, in a spirit of revenge, muti- lated the marble statue of Pitt. It was now evident that George the King was despised, and that a new George sat enthroned in the hearts of the people. "At No. 1 Broadway, opposite Bowling Green, there is a tablet that refers to an incident I have just mentioned. Let us look at it." We found it presently, and were much inter- ested in the legend it contains, which is as follows : HERE STOOD KENNEDY HOUSE ONCE HEADQUARTERS OF GENERALS WASHINGTON AND LEE. ON THE BOWLING GREEN OPPOSITE, THE LEADEN STATUE OF KING GEORGE WAS DESTROYED BY THE PEOPLE JULY 9, 1776, AND LATER MADE INTO BULLETS FOR THE AMERICAN ARMY. L.ofC. 100 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK " Served him right," commented Tom. " 'Twas lucky for the Americans that it was made of lead/' suggested George. " I am sorry, though," added Emily, ^' that Pitt's statue was mutilated." After some further discussion of this interesting incident we were ready to proceed. " Near by, on ISTassau Street, is another interest- ing tablet," said our guide. " Let us pass through the arcade of yonder beautiful Equitable Building and we'll reach our destination in a few minutes." We halted at Cedar Street, and glancing at the Mutual Life's great granite pile, easily found a let- tered bronze plate, which George read aloud. HERE STOOD THE MIDDLE DUTCH CHURCH DEDICATED A. D. 1729 MADE A BRITISH MILITARY PRISON ] 776 RESTORED 1790 OCCUPIED AS THE UNITED STATES POST OFFICE 1845-1875 TAKEN DOWN 1882 THE MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE CO OF NEW YORK. " A church, a prison, and a post office ! " repeated Emily. " More, too, I believe," said the professor. " I have read that here ISTew York's first theater was located, and it is recorded that during the Revolu- tionary War the English officers used the church as a riding academy." A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 101 "Because it was a Dutch cliurcli?" asked George. " I don't know whether that influenced them. They probably thought it suited their purpose bet- The old Post Oftite (onginally tlit Middle Diitdi church), Nassau, Cedai, aud Libeity btieets. Rtpioduted fiom Valentine's Manual for 1864. ter tlian any other place. The point is, as the inscrip- tion indicates, that ere the close of the year 1776, New York had fallen into the hands of the British." CHAPTER VI " Before we go on," said the professor, when we met again, " I think it necessary to mention what happened shortly before independence was declared, so that we may fully understand the steps that led up to that important event. " The punishment of Boston began in June, 1774. That interference with the rights of one colony frightened all the others, and a Continental Congress, as it was called, met in Philadelphia in September, 1774, and drew up a Declaration of Rights, addressed to the people of Great Britain, and a second statement addressed to the hing. The first was written by John Jay, a young Xcw York lawyer. " When these papers arrived in England they caused a decided sensation. Pitt, the great states- man, said that in all his reading he had never seen better reasoning or fairer dcnumds expressed in firmer or wiser language, and he warned Parlia- ment against trying to make slaves of men who thought and wrote in such a manner. But George and his ministers were obstinate and would not take warning. " On A])ril 10, 1775, the king's soldiers fired on the farmers of Lexington and Concord; on June 102 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 103 iTtli the battle of Bunker Hill was fought, and the English, though victorious, acknowledged that the Yankees could fight, and that they had won a very dear victory. " In the meantime the second Continental Con- gress, sitting at Philadelphia, had organized a Con- tinental army and appointed George Washington commander in chief. On June 25th Washington passed through I^ew York. The place where the patriots gathered to receive him — now West Street, near Laight — is marked by a tablet * with this in- scription : TO MARK THE LANDING PLACE OF GENERAL GEORGE WASHINGTON JUNE 25, 1775, ON HIS WAY TO CAMBRIDGE TO COMMAND THE AMERICAN ARMY. " On July 2d he reached Cambridge, where, under the famous old elm, he assumed command of the assembled troops. " Strange to say, on the same day that Washing- ton came to New York, William Tryon, the king's governor, also arrived, and was received with becom- ing ceremonies. You can see from this what a con- fused state of affairs existed — a mixture of loyalty to the king and indignation at some of his tyrannical doings. In fact. Congress, after practically declar- ing war, still hoped to mend matters, and actually * This tablet, which was in pkice in 1901, has mysteriously disappeared. 104 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK sent another petition to King George, but he would not look at it. " In the meantime Washington was besieging General Howe in Boston, and, although the latter had a fine host of trained troops, they did not assert themselves against the Continentals, who were inex- perienced, poorly equipped, and at one time almost out of pow^der. At last, in March, 1776, after nine months of dillydallying, the British were forced to evacuate the town. " Washington now hastened to New York, ex- pecting that this would bo the next point of attack. Meanwhile a great battle of arguments had been going on in Congress; and, finall}", on July 4, 1776, the motion that 'these Uniicd Colonies are and of right ought to he free and independent States ' was carried. " The arrival of Washington in New York, and the preparations for defending the city, caused a general outburst of excitement and fear among the people. It was still, you must remember, a little town of four thousand houses and twenty-five thou- sand inhabitants, confined to the lower end of the island, the rest consisting of county estates and a few widely separated villages. A redoubt was cast up at Turtle Bay, on the East River above Forty- fourth Street; a breastwork at Fifty -fourth Street; a battery on a bluff at Seventy-fourth Street; another at the foot of Eighty-fifth Street; and a strong one, known as Thompson's Battery, on a jutting promon- tory at the foot of Eighty-ninth Street, then called Horn's Hook, which commanded the Harlem River A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK lo5 and Hell Gate. A small work was also erected on Snake Hill, now Mount Morris, in the park of that name. • In fact, the whole river front bristled with fortifications. A venerable New-Yorker, whom I nsed to meet occasionally," continued the professor, " often told me that he was in the habit of visiting these places and was able easily to trace the remains of the old works. " Back of Trinity there was a strong redoubt-, the fort, with six guns, and the Grand Battery, with twenty-three guns, protected the southern point of the island ; other sections along the lower East River showed works and cannon, while Jones's Hill, near Broome Street, and Bunker Hill, on the Bayard Farm, where Grand and Mulberry Streets now cross, were crowned with powerful batteries. Barricades of logs, stones, boxes and barrels inclosed City Hall Park, stretched across Broadway opposite St. Paul's, covered the site of the present Tribune Building, and guarded other localities. Brooklyn Heights were also fortified, while Fort Washington on this side, and Fort Lee opposite, guarded the Hudson. '' With an anxious eye AVashington watched the bay. On June 25, 1776, he noticed the first signs of the foreign fleet, and by July 2d fully one hun- dred and thirty vessels of various kinds were gath- ered in the neighborhood of Sandy Hook. Ere long a landing was made, and the hillsides of Staten Island were presently dotted with white tents. " Here was a force of thirty-one thousand British and Hessian veterans, under Admiral Howe, his brother General Howe, and Generals Clinton, Corn- 106 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK wallis, and Percy — the best-officered and best- eqnipped force that Europe could furnisli at that time. " Against these trained lighters whom had we? Some twenty thousand raw troops, commanded by men wdio had seen but little service. Washington had taken part in some Indian skirmishes, but had never been at the head of a large body of men; Putnam — ' Old Put/ as he was affec- tionately called — had seen about the same sort of war- fare; Knox, a youth of twen- ty-six, knew more about sell- ing books than handling a brigade; Greene, but little older than Knox, was more at home near an iron forge than near a cannon. C^harles Lee had seen service abroad, but, it is safe to say, he hindered AVashiugton more than he helped him, while Sullivan and Alexander (or, to call the latter by his title, Lord Stirling) were both young and had much to learn of the business of war. " Those were anxious days in Xew York, I can assure you," continued the professor earnestly, '" and none had a more trying time than Washington and his officers. There was constant watching, drilling, and preparing. One day General Greene, while crossing the Common on his w^ay to Washington's headquarters, noticed a company of artillery, and A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 107 was struck with its able performance, as well as the tact of its youthful commander, who was but twenty years old. Greene, quick to appreciate military tal- ent, spoke to the young man, saw in a moment that he was far above the ordinary, made a friend of him, and presently introduced him to Washington. The boy was Alexander Hamilton. " Washington's headquarters were about two miles out of town, at Richmond Hill, a fine home- stead in Greenwich village. You remember the loca- tion of the village, no doubt?" " I know," said Tom, " where the ships start for Europe." " General Howe never hurried matters, and so a month or more passed; but toward the end of August the British made a landing at Gravesend, Long Island. About two miles and a half in front of the American works on Brooklyn Heights there was a range of hills through which three passes led to our fortifications. As you can readily understand, the Americans sought to prevent the English from com- ing through these passes. Howe now put into execution a clever plan. Keeping passes No. 1 and No. 2 busy, he undertook during the night of August 26th a silent march in a roundabout way to T()iiiuls at One Hundred and Twen- tieth Street and Amsterdam Avenue, we rode over to tlie Point of Rocks at One Hundred and Twenty- seventh Strec^t and Convent Avenue, from which elevation Washington and his generals watched the fight on September IGth. Following the smooth path that leads around the Convent of the Sacred Heart, we then wheeled north as far as One Hundred and Thirty-fifth Street, and going east one block to Hamilton Terrace, had a fine view of modern Har- lem, which lay below us. " We seem to be making as many discoveries up town as we did down town," remarked George, ad- miring the scene at our feet. "Yes, indeed," assented Emily; "I had no idea there was so much of New York that I did not know." " There is more ahead of us," remarked the pro- fessor, turning again in the direction of Convent Avenue. Just beyond One Hundred and Forty-first Street he stopped and pointed out Hamilton Grange, now used as a school. " All this section from One Hundred and Thirty- eighth to One Hundred and Forty-fifth Street was 124 r- ^ 126 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK owned by Alexainler llainilton. He built the house iu 1802, and named it ' The Grange/ in honor of his uncle's seat in Scotland. It was a grand homestead in its day, almost square, sixty feet in width, with a broad piazza around it. Just across the avenue over L-^^.^^^^' The (timiiki .i-r) it .ippt.iud in ILuniltnii -, linu' rnmi an old piijit Still standing, at Cun\ out \\(.iuk' !il)(i\o One Hnndud .uid Toitv first Street. yonder, near One TTundred and Forty-third Street, are the famous thirteen trees, representing the thir- teen original States. For a time relic hunters thr(\it- ened their destruction, but now, as you see, they are fenced in. Recently they became the ]>roperty of a ]irivate citizen, who may some day place a bust of Tramiltou within the inclosure, and thus add to the interest of this historic spot." We lingered here for some time, the boys ex- pressing a strong desire to settle down in the neigh- borhood, but at length the professor led us away, our next stopping place being the police station at The thirteen trees planted by Alexander Hamilton at One Hundred and Forty-third Street, east of Amsterdam Avenue. From a recent photograph. 128 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK One Hundred and Fifty-second Street and Amster- dam Avenue, where, leaning up against the buikling in a neglectful sort of way, is an old stone bearing the date 1769, and the inscri})tion " Xine miles to New York." Going west, we presently reached Trinity Ceme- tery, which extends from One Hundred and Fifty- third to One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Street, and from Amsterdam Avenue to the ISTorth Kiver. Be- fore entering, we paused before a bronze tablet im- bedded in the wall on One Hundred and Fifty-third Street, which contains this legend: IN HONOR OF COLONEL THOMAS KNOWLTON AND MAJOR ANDREW LEYTCH * OF THE AMERICAN ARMY KILLED SEPT. 16, 1776, AT THE BATTLE OF HARLEM. ERECTED BY THE SONS OF THE REVOLUTION. "Why was this tablet placed away up here?" asked George. " Because, at one time it was thought the battle was fought in this neighborhood." Within the beautifully kept cemetery we found much to interest us. Here was the tall monu- ment, containing carved images of birds, erected in * The name is generally spelled Leitch. A new tablet is soon to be substituted. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 129 honor of the world-renowned ornithologist, Audubon. Here, too, were the tombs of Philip Livingston, signer of the Declaration of Independence; Stephen Ju- niel, John Jacob Astor, General Dix, and the ceno- taph of President Monroe. The last named died in this city July 4, 1831, at the house of his daughter in Prince Street, east of Broadway. Twenty-seven years later the State of Virginia claimed the remains of her illustrious son, and inider military escort they were transferred to liicli- mond. Before leaving this section we wended our way through the quiet paths of Audubon Park, extending from One Hun- dred and Fifty-fifth to One Hundred and Fifty- eighth Street along the Hudson. Here, in the southwest corner of the park, we saw the home of Audubon, and, close by, a Eevolutionary redoubt, near which is a group of handsome houses and well-kept grounds, whose owners have never found it necessary to build fences or erect barriers of any kind against their neighbors. Our next stopping place was at One Hundred and Sixty-first Street, just east of St. Nicholas Avenue, where, inclosed in a fine garden, we beheld a well-preserved and picturesque colonial mansion standing aloof from its modern surroundings. 10 ^■^_^^^^, 130 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " This," said the professor, " is one of the most interesting houses on Manhattan Island. It was erected in 1758 by Roger Morris, husband of Mary Philipse, a highly educated and very beautiful lady, who belonged to the well-known Philipse family. A few years before, Washington, while in New York, had met Miss Mary, and, so the story goes, fallen in love with her. It is even said that he proposed to her and was refused, but this fact has never been es- tablished. Duty soon called Washington away to Fort Duquesne, giving Captain Morris, who had been Washington's fellow aid-de-camp under Braddock, an opportunity to woo and win the fair lady. Mor- ris became a royalist, and in 1776 his estate was for- feited. That same year Washington used the house as his headquarters, and later the Hessian general, Knyphausen, occupied it. After the Revolution, under its hospitable roof, Washington, John Adams, John Quincy Adams, Thomas Jefferson, General Knox, Alexander Hamilton, and other distinguished men and their wives were entertained. In 1810 it became the property of Stephen Jumel, a wealthy man, who had married a charming and brilliant young lady from Rhode Island. Then it numbered among its guests Louis Philippe, Lafayette, Talley- rand, Joseph Bonaparte, and Louis jSTapoleon. After a while the Jumels went to France and, re- turning some years later, brought with them eight chairs that had belonged to the great Napoleon, a table procured by Napoleon in Egypt, a clock from the Tuileries, and many other historically interesting and valuable furnishings. 132 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " Just below here," continued the professor, " at One Hundred and Fifty-ninth Street, you will notice a remarkable semicircle of fine, tall cypress trees. Ere the cutting through of streets was begun the circle was complete, and a little lake occupied the center. The trees, it is said, were brought from Egypt by l^apoleon and presented to Jumel, who transferred them to his estate and planted them in the unique manner I have described to you. " After Jumel's death his widow continued to live here. One day she surprised her friends by marry- ing Aaron Burr, the latter then being a very old man. For a time thereafter it was called the Burr Mansion — not for long, however, as the pair soon sepa- rated. Then John Jacob Astor became its owner, and here, tradition says, his secretary and friend, Fitz-Greene Halleck, wrote the immortal poem ' Marco Bozzaris.' At present the house belongs to General Earle, and is known as Earle Cliff." During its long existence, and in spite of changes of ownership, the venerable residence has remained a landmark of colonial days. Some modern features have been added, but the original character of its early ar- chitecture prevails. There is a spell about the place that readily touches the imagination and brings to mind notable figures and interesting scenes of the past. " Before we leave this historic spot," suggested the professor, " let us examine the fine tablet that adorns the old mansion." To the right of the doorway, with its mullioned side-lights and elliptical transom of colonial fash- ion, we found a profile bust of Washington, A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 133 wreathed with sprays of myrtle and laurel, and beneath it a plate with this inscription : WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS. THIS TABLET IS DEDICATED BY THE WASHINGTON HEIGHTS CHAPTER DAUGHTERS OF THE AJIEHICAN REVOLUTION TO THE MEMORY OF GENERAL GEORGE WASHINGTON. WHO OCCUPIED THIS MANSION AS HIS HEADQUARTERS FROM SEPTEMBER 16th TO OCTOBER 21ST, ITi'S. BATTLE OF HARLEM HEIGHTS, SEPTEMBER 16th. COUNCILS OF WAR. PRESIDENT WASHINGTON VISITED THIS MANSION ACCOMPANIED BY HIS CABINET. JULY, 1790. MORRIS HOUSE, 1758. | JUMEL MANSION, 1810. EARLE CLIFF, 1900. Again we mounted our wheels and pushed north- ward along St. I^icholas Avenue, Emily calling our attention to the fact that we were now " out in the country," as she called it. In truth, there was little to remind us of the fact that we were but a few miles away from the noise and rush of the city proper. Going down Depot Lane and north to Bennett Lane, we found, after some little investigation, the old, original Fort AYashington, now a neglected embank- ment guarded by silent sentinels in the shape of trees. Two of the five corners of the bastioned earthwork can still be seen. " This was the last stronghold," said the pro- fessor, " held by the Americans on Manhattan Island, the main army having been withdrawn to West- 134 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Chester. Directly across the river from this spot were Fort Lee and Fort Constitution, and there Gen- eral Greene was in charge. On the 13th of ]^ovem- ber, 1776, Washington visited these forts and had a conference with Greene. The former wanted to evacuate Fort Washington, believing that it was diffi- cult to hold, and under the circumstances not im- portant, but unfortunately he was persuaded to the contrary. " Colonel Magaw was in command here, and had with him about two thousand men, many of whom were in outworks on the hills that surround us. On the 16th of November the British moved forward in four divisions, all of which were ordered to attack at the same time. The Americans made a gallant de- fense, but one by one the hills were taken by the superior numbers of the enemy, and at length the patriots were forced back to the fort. While this was going on, Washington was anxiously watching through a telescope the movements of one of the American divisions. He saw the men make a deter- mined stand, but presently their line broke, and, being outnumbered, they slowly retreated. Then the Hessians rushed upon them, cut them down, and, like brutal beasts, bayoneted the wounded soldiers, though they begged for quarter. So completely was Washington overcome by the sight that, it is said, he wept with the tenderness of a child. " The fort was now at the mercy of the enemy, and Magaw, realizing that it was useless to hold out, surrendered. Thus, Manhattan Island yielded up its last stronghold to the British, and the brave defend- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 135 ers were made prisoners of war and treated with fearful cruelty." The professor's story cast a gloom over our little party, and we were glad to turn away and follow him along a path that after a while brought us to Fort George. Here the fine view of the river, valley, and hills changed our mood to one of keen pleasure. Below us the old King's Bridge Road followed its winding course, and beyond a stone castle tipped the crown of a hill. Our guide informed us that one of the outposts, afterward called by the British, Fort Tryon, occupied the opposite heights we were admir- ing, and showed us, a little to the south, the site of an old redoubt. We found here, also, in the res- taurant, a case containing cannon balls and other Revolutionary relics that had been dug up in the neighborhood. " With the capture of Fort Washington," said the professor, resuming his story, " the entire island passed into the hands of the British, and the city became a military post, Howe having his head- quarters at the commodious Kennedy House. Roy- alist families soon began to drift in from all direc- tions, the king's party was triumphant, and the pa- triots apparently had been swept out of existence. There was one powerful reminder in the town, how- ever, of the great fight for liberty, in the shape of some five thousand prisoners of war, captured on Long Island and at Fort Washington. These unfor- tunates were intrusted to Cunningham, the brutal provost marshal, who had so cruelly tormented Nathan Hale during his last hours. 136 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " Cunningham had his office in the New Jail, now the Hall of liecords. Here many officers, including Ethan Allen, of Ticonderoga fame, were confined, and so closely were they packed that when their bones ached at night from lying on the hard planks and they wished to turn, it could only be done by word of command, ' Right ' or ^ Left,' whereupon they all changed their positions. ISTot content with allowing his helpless prisoners slowly to starve and freeze to death, this fiend Cunningham is said to have poisoned many and to have continued drawing their Rhinelander sugar house, coriu r Rose and Duane Streets, used as a prison during the Revolutionary War. From an old print. rations, which ho sold. He is reported to have boasted that ho had thus killed more of the ' rebels ' than had been slain by all the king's forces. " Xearly every public building was turned into a prison, and all the big sugar houses were filled with suffering soldiers. Cold, hunger, foul air, putrid A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 137 water, and disease quickly thinned tlieir ranks. Every morning the dead-carts came to carry away the corpses and throw them into trenches, where no sign of identification marked their neglected graves. " More awful still were the prison ships — foul, neglected hulks, where men were crowded worse than we would house the lowest beasts. The Jersey, an- chored in the neighborhood of the Brooklyn Xavy Yard, was the most famous or rather infamous of these floating dungeons. I can not describe to you the ghastly scene of filth, rags, and pestilence that characterized the Jersey, or tell you the sufferings of those poor, wan patriots who were once strong, hale, and happy men. Philip Freneau, the poet of the Kevolution, has left behind a story of the prison ships in verse, of which I will read you a few lines: " ' Here doom'd to starve, like famished dogs we tore The scant allowance that our tyrants bore. Three hundred wretches here deny'd all light, In crowded mansions pass th' infernal night. Some for a bed their tattered vestments join, And some on chests and some on floors recline; Shut from the blessings of the evening air. Pensive we lay with mingled corpses there ; Meager and wan, and scorch'd with heat below. We looked like ghosts ere death had made us so.' " Every morning the prisoners were awakened with the cry, ^Rebels, turn out your dead!^ These sufferers, relieved from misery, were hastily thrown into a pit near the shore, where the washing of the next tide often uncovered their bodies. " Heaven alone knows the suffering, the hard- m si :l,('^ I S||ipiiiiM;Jl';>4 * j5» Inlffl A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK I39 ships, and sacrifices of the patriots that fought for the independence we enjoy. They are all worthy of our unceasing reverence, and none more so than the tor- tured wretches in New York's sugar houses and prison ships. It is said that their fearful treatment was a deliberate plan to make them desert the ' rebel ' cause and join the forces of the king, tempt- ing promises being held out to them. If so, the scheme failed, for almost to a man they resisted all attempts to win them from the cause of patriotism. But a day of reckoning came for Cunningham. Some years after the war he was convicted of for- gery in London and executed. " While the poor prisoners thus suffered, the king's officers found amusement in acting farces at a theater in ISTassau Street, in attending bull fights, playing tennis, and in riotous living at the taverns. They also wantonly destroyed a library that had been established in the City Hall, by taking away valuable books, a knapsack load at a time, and selling them for liquor. This library had been founded in 1700, and comprised many interesting volumes. In 1788 it was reorganized under its old name of The New York Society Library, and it is in existence to-day, its building being in LTniversity Place near Twelfth Street. It owns extensive files of old newspapers and many important historical and biographical works. " For seven long years the war dragged on, the patriot ' Continentals in their ragged regimentals ' fighting the enemy, as well as the biting winds of win- ter and the gnawing pangs of hunger. At last, in the spring of 1783, the struggle came to an end, and the 140 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK glad tidings of peace and triumph spread through the colonies. On the 19 th of April, exactly eight years after the battle of Lexington, the news was officially published. " The British lingered on for some months, and not until November were they ready to evacuate New York. On the 19th Washington arrived at Day's Tavern, corner of One Hundred and Twenty- fifth Street and Eighth Avenue. The troops, con- sisting of some eight hundred bronzed veterans in new blue coats, white vests and breeches, took up their station at McGowan's Pass, whence some of them perhaps had fled on that 15th of September when the British had rushed forward, driving the Americans before them. Four trophies, in the shape of six-pounders taken from the enemy, and engraved with the time and place of their capture, bore evi- dence of the changed state of affairs. " Every day, it was thought, the English would depart, but not until the 25th of November did they take their much-desired leave, accompanied by hosts of royalist New-Yorkers, who were afraid to face their triumphant countrymen. At eight o'clock the drums at McGowan's Pass sounded, the soldiers fell into line, General Knox at the head, and with happy hearts marched down the old Post Road in the crisp autumn air into the Bowery, where they halted. To the west, where Grand Street crosses Mulberry, was a strong redoubt known as Bunker Hill, and to the south stretched a line of works just vacated by the British. At one o'clock the troops formed again, and the procession into the town began. Down the A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 141 Bowery, into Chatham and then into Queen (now Pearl) Street they marched, to the strains of merry music. I need not tell you that the people were out in force. Their clothes were perhaps a little shab- by, but powdered wigs, white ruffles, cocked hats, sil- ver buckles, and flowing silk dresses of varied hues are always attractive, even if somewhat worn. On- ward, through the double row of cheering citizens, came the veterans. Proud was their step and erect their forms. Presently they swung into AVall Street, passed the mutilated statue of Pitt, and marched up to Broadway, halting at Rector Street. " Two companies were now ordered to proceed to Fort George at the Battery, where an interesting ceremony was to be performed. The last British boats had just left the strand, the fort was empty, but something was wrong." "I know!" exclaimed Tom; "the English flag was up on the flagstaff." " Yes; and some mean individual had greased the pole and cut the halyards. But Yankee ingenuity soon overcame a trifle like that. The English in the boats were grinning, but their looks quickly changed when they saw a sailor lad, John Van Arsdale, ham- mer cleats to the slippery pole, and in short order reach the top. Then the insolent royal flag came down, and the Stars and Stripes soon waved in its stead, never to be replaced by any other ensign. For many years, each Evacuation Day, John Van Arsdale was intrusted with the pleasant duty of rais- ing the flag at the Battery; then his son, and after him his grandson, enjoyed the privilege. 142 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " I have some verses here," continued the pro- fessor, " that tell the story of Evacuation Day in spir- ited language. Let me read them to you: " ' Beat of drum and thrill of fife Down the Bowery lane; Tramp of troops, in exile long, Marching home again. Battle-seasoned soldiers these, In their buff and blue; Victors in a wasteful war, Tried, triumphant, true. Heroes here of Harlem Heights, Sons of Liberty! Trusty troops that trapped Burgoyne, Sons of Victory! Veterans of Valley Forge, Warriors marked by fame; Guardians of the Neutral Ground, Worthy of the name. Beat of drum and waving flags Down the Bowery lane; All New York is out to shout, " Welcome home again ! " " ' Tramp of troops in buff and blue. Marching down Broadway; Down where but an hour before Kedcoats ruled the day. Halting at the Battery's edge. Watching from the strand British hosts and Hessian hordes Slipping from the land. All is well — but no, a sound; Hark ! a mocking laugh : Briton's flag is floating still From the Battery's staff. Halyards cut, a greasy pole — This the parting grace — Futile trick; swift Yankee limbs Reach the slippery place. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 143 Down tlie lingering emblem drops, Vanishing from view, While a shout rings out to greet The red and white and blue.' " A few hours after the arrival of the soldiers a great civic procession followed. General Knox, leaving the troops, rode back to Bull's Head Tavern near Canal Street in the Bowery, later transformed into the Bowery Theater, and still a house of amuse- ment, where he met Washington, George Clinton, recently elected Governor of New York, and other important personages and citizens. This procession followed the route of the troops and was greeted with a new burst of enthusiasm. Then came addresses, and later a dinner at Fraunces's Tavern, given by Clinton, at which thirteen patriot toasts were pro- posed and heartily answered. On December 2d a great display of fireworks was arranged at Bowling Green, and on the lltli public thanksgiving services were held. " Thus Washington saw the glorious triumph of his long and sometimes ill-appreciated efforts. Glad, no doubt, was he at the success he had achieved, yet sad, too, he must have felt as he walked through the streets of New York, once so gay, bright, and pros- perous in appearance, but now showing evidences everywhere of seven years of foreign occupation. The track of the great fire was still visible; canvas roofs covered the ruined buildings and gave to the charred district the name of Canvas Town. The shattered walls of Trinity marred Broadway; most of the churches, robbed of their pews and foul with 144 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK filth, were unfit for use; fine mansions were going to decay, wharves were deserted, warehouses were vacant, and the streets were silent. It was a city sorely wounded, but not bereft of life. " Washington remained in New York but a few days. On December 4th he met the principal offi- cers of the army in the ' Long Room ' at Fraunces's Tavern and said farewell to them. It was a touch- ing scene. lie parted from them as tenderly as if they were his brothers. Silently they followed their beloved chief as he left the room and passed through a double line of light infantry to Whitehall Ferry. Here he entered a barge, and, while he was being rowed away, stood up, took oft' his hat and waved a silent adieu to the sorrowing group that watched him go." CHAPTER VIII " With wars and honors overspread, Seven years, and more, we fought and bled, Seized British hosts and Hessian bands And all — to leave thee in their hands." " In these words," said the professor, " the poet of the Revohition, writing in 1783, grieved over the fate of New York. It took the town fully four years to get over the mischief done by the soldiers, but then, having regained most of its lost resources, it went forward with a stride that astonished the rest of the country, including Philadelphia, at that time the largest city in the colonics. No one was more struck with the change than Washington when he returned in 1789 to be inaugurated President. " But I see," said the professor, " that I am run- ning a little ahead of my story. The peace of 1783 did not bring with it either tranquillity or content- ment. The yoke of King George had been thrown off, it was true, but there was something wrong. There was a Colonial Congress, but it had no power and was not respected, while the colonies were neither friendly nor neighborly. New York, for in- stance, made Jersey farmers pay a tax on the vege- tables they brought into the State. " It was now felt that a stronger central Govern- 11 145 146 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK meiit was necessary, and a convention met in Phila- deli)liia in 1787 to consider the matter. The best men of the country were there, and they had a gigan- tic task before them- — a battle of brains instead of a conflict of arms. One of the most conspicuous figures in that body of wise men w^as Alexander Hamilton of New York, then not yet thirty years old. He led the Federalists — that is, those who wanted a strong confederation. Opposed to them was the party that upheld the rights of the individual States, and wanted to yield as little as possible to the nation- al Government. In other words, a big State like IS^ew York did not like the idea of being placed on the same level with a little State like Rhode Island. " As you can readily imagine, many other sug- gestions and plans met with opposition and caused long discussions — too long to be repeated here. The story of the framing of the Constitution is very in- teresting and instructive, and some day I trust you will read all about it in Bancroft's great history. This fact, however, I want to impress upon you at present, that New York city played a great and hon- oralde part in helping to establish the union of the States, and in this connection you ought particularly to remember the names of Alexander Hamilton and John Jay. " Assisted by Madison, who afterward was elected President, they wrote and published a series of bril- liant letters, explaining all about the new Constitu- tion, which produced a profound effect. These let- ters, under the title of The Federalist, are now to be A LANDMARK IIISTORY OF NEW YORK I47 had in book form. I am sure you'll find it in your father's library." " Oh, yes, I have seen it," said George, " but I haven't read it." " Xow, while Hamilton, Jay, and others were workinii' to i-et the State Legis- latnre, which Avas sitting at Poiighkeepsie, to adopt the (Constitution, the merchants and mechanics of New York city organized a grand pro- cession to help Hamilton, whom they regarded as their special champion. Almost every industry was represent- ed — the butchers, the bakers, and the candlestick makers. Each had a float, or an em- l)lem, or a motto. The sail- makers, to give you an example, had a stage drawn by four horses, bearing a flag, on which was painted a ship under full sail, called ISTew Constitution ; also a picture of Hamilton, and this motto : " ' Let steadiness our steps pursue, ]\Iay justice be our guide; The Federal plan we keep in view, We fall if we divide.' " But the most interesting and original feature of the procession was the Federal ship Hamilton, a frigate, twenty-seven feet long, fully rigged, carry- ing thirty-two guns, manned by thirty mariners, and mounted on a truck drawn by ten horses. As the M^2^J^ 1-tS A LANDMAliK lllSTUKY OF NEW YURK procession moved tliroiigli the principal streets, sa- lutes were fired and the sails changed as if the vessel "were atloat. Later in the day a great banquet was held, during which thirteen toasts were proposed, the first being 'The United States'; the fourth, ' (xen- eral Washington '; and the last, ' The Day; may the Union of the States be Perpetual ! ' " This took place on the 23d of July, 1788. Three days later the glad news was received that the Legislature had adopted the Constitution, New York being the eleventh State to join the Union." " It ought to have been the first," remarked Tom. "'No doubt," said the professor; "but the fact of being slow did not mean lack of enthusiasm after- ward. This was proved when, in April, 1789, Wash- ington having been chosen President, New York, as capital of the new federation, prepared to welcome the great patriot who was ' first in peace as well as first in war.' " " And first in the hearts of his countrymen," added Tom. " Washington's journey from Mount Vernon was one continuous ovation. At Elizabethtown Point, in New Jersey, a committee of both Houses of Con- gress and many public officials met him. TTere he embarked in a splendid barge built for the occasion, manned by thirteen pilots in white uniforms. Other barges, beautifully decorated, followed, and, accom- panied by music, this remarkable flotilla moved up the broad and beautiful l)ay of New York. The barge landed at IVfurray's Wharf, and here, amid the ringing of bells, the roaring of cannon, and the shout' A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 149 ing of the people, Washington stepped ashore, where he was welcomed by his old friends, Governor Clin ton, General Knox, and other comrades of the Revo- lutionary War. " Carpets had been spread to a carriage, but Washington preferred to walk. I need hardly tell Washington's house in Cherry Street. From an old print. you that the streets were decorated. All sorts of flags, silken banners, and garlands of flowers bearing his name were everywhere to be seen. Washington bowed every few steps, and of course took off his hat to the ladies, many of whom shed tears of enthusi- asm as they waved their handkerchiefs and threw flowers. At N^o. 1 Cherry Street, corner of Pearl, where now one of the piers of the Brooklyn Bridge 150 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK rests, lie paused and entered the house tliat had been prepared for him." " Was it a fine house? " asked Emily. " Oh, yes, and a fine neighborhood, but rather far up town, as the inhabitants then thought. " Peojjle came from all directions to see the in- auguration ceremonies, and the little city was soon overcrowded, every public-house, boarding-house, and private dwelling being more than filled with guests. Some, it is said, slept in tents. The taverns were jammed to their utmost capacity, and each had a special song of welcome of its own. Here is a verse from one of the rhymed greetings: " ' Thrice welcome to this shore, Our leader now no more, But rnler thou. O truly good and great, Long live to glad our State, Where countless honors wait To deck thy brow! ' " A short delay occurred, but on the 30th of April all was ready, and the inauguration took place. At nine o'clock there w^ere religious services in all the churches; at twelve the city troops paraded be- fore Washington's door, and, soon after, the commit- tee of Congress and the heads of departments came in carriages. A half hour later Washington entered the coach of state, and then the procession, the for- eign ministers, and a long train of citizens l)ringing up the rear, moved on toward the City Hall in Wall Street. Federal Hall, as it was then called, had been considerably enlarged and improved, so as to S. Q- iiD c > 5 152 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK serve the needs of the Senate and the House of Rep- resentatives. " A large crowd of citizens had gathered, occupy- ing the street, windows, and even the roofs of near- by houses, and all eyes were directed to the balcony in front of the Senate chambers. One of the most interested spectators was Alexander Hamilton, who looked on from his residence opposite, at the corner of Wall and Broad Streets. " Just before the oath was to be administered it was discovered that there was no Bible in Federal Plall. Fortunately, the chancellor, Robert R. Liv- ingston " " Was he the same that had helped prepare the Declaration of Independence? " interrupted George. " Yes. Fortunately, as I have said, he was a Freemason, and knew that there was a Bible at St. John's Lodge near by. It was brought and, as you can imagine, it is treasured by that lodge to this day. " The oath was solemnly pronounced by the chan- cellor, Washington bowing reverently and kissing the Bible. Then Livingston stepped forward, waved his hand and cried out, ' Long live George Washington, President of the United States! ' At the same mo- ment a flag was displayed on the cupola of the build- ing, which was followed by a discharge of artillery at the Battery. The bells now began to ring out peals of joy and the people shouted and cheered. " Washington then delivered his inaugural ad- dress to both Houses of Congress, after which the whole assemblage proceeded on foot to St. Paul's, where special services were held.^' A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 153 " Why not to Trinity? " asked George. " It had not yet been completely rebuilt. After the services a general jubilee took place, and in the evening there were brilliant illuminations and fire- works. Thus New York honored him who had de- fended her in time of war, and now in time of peace, having been elevated to the highest post in the land, dwelt within her gates." "Did Washington like living in New York?" asked Emily. " I imagine he liked it quite w^ell, but his prefer- ence was, undoubtedly, his beloved Mount Vernon, Still, he enjoyed going to the John Street Theater, and, in spite of those who have tried to make him a man without humor, it is known that he laughed heartily at the good points of the play. He was fond, too, of walking to the Battery, or going on horseback to the upper part of the island, where Har- lem Heights and Fort Washington must have called up vivid memories of war and hardship, now happily but shadows of former anxieties. Then, too, there were visits to Vice-President Adams at Richmond Hill, the beautiful residence in Greenmch village that once served as Washington's headquarters. There was one custom also that pleased him very much, and that was the New-Yorkers' way of celebrat- ing New Year's day, by calling, wishing each other a Happy New Year, and extending a hospitable wel- come to every visitor. The President said he hoped New York would never give up this genial custom, but a few vears ago it began for some reason to go out of style, and it has now been completely dropped. 154 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " About a month after Washington's arrival, Mrs. Washington and her two grandehiklren, Eleanor and George Washington Parke Custis, reached the city, using the same barge that had brought the President. Receptions and dinners were now the order of the day; the foreign ambassadors and many of the most distinguished men of the country resided here, and there was plenty of society life in town. There is a celebrated painting of Lady Washington's first grand reception, by Huntington, that contains sixty-four portrait figures of well-known persons. A study of this picture will make you acquainted with nearly all the prominent people that graced New York during that time. " After a few months the Cherry Street house was found inconvenient, and the Washingtons moved to the McComb Mansion, No. 39 Broadway, which, being six stories high, was regarded as a wonderful building." " Wasn't that the place where the first houses were built, and where there is a tablet now? " asked Emily. " Yes, close by," said the professor. " Washing- ton celebrated his birthday in the year 1790 by mov- ing into his new residence. At the same time an- other form of celebration was going on elsewhere. A new society, known as Tammany, or the Columbian Order, organized about two weeks after Washington had taken the oath of office, held a meeting on the Twenty-second of February, at which it was decided to commemorate the day regularly every year. Thir- teen toasts were then drunk in home-made porter. A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 155 " Tammany was organized as an intensely pa- triotic American society, and, instead of adopting any such foreign dignitary as St. George or St. Andrew, as had been the custom, it turned a well-known and highly respected Indian chief, Tammany, into a saint Tammany Hall in 1830 ; present site of the New York Sun Build- ing. From au old print. and accepted him as its patron. Furthermore, in order not to ape any European ways, the members dressed in Indian costume, the home of the society was called a wigwam, and the presiding officer the Grand Sachem. The first permanent wigwam was where the Tribune Building stands to-day, the second where the Sun is now established, and the third its present home in Fourteenth Street. The early history of Tammany is very interesting. It 156 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK founded a museum, engaged in charitable work, and in the year 1808 gave proper burial to the remains of the unfortunate victims of the prison ships. For years their ashes had been literally blown about, no one considering it his duty to inter them. Under the auspices of Tammany a vault was built in Hudson Avenue, Brooklyn, a notable funeral procession or- ganized, and the coflins reverently deposited in this Tomb of Patriots.'* " But to go back to the year 1790. [New York was then the city of official gatherings and state af- fairs; still, there wasn't a bath room, a furnace, a gas jet, or a match in town. Latchkeys were unknown, steel pens were not in use, and coal had not been in- troduced. To reach Harlem one was compelled to go on horseback or in a carriage ; to visit Albany, the quickest conveyance was a sailboat which generally took a week; to send a letter to Savannah, thirty- three cents in postage was required." " I don't think I should have liked New York very much in those days," remarked Tom. " Still, other cities were jealous of New York, and before the end of the year 1790 Congress de- cided to honor Philadelphia by making it the capital. So Washington once more bade farewell to Man- hattan Island, the Senators and the Representatives * During the summer of 1900, while excavations were going on in tlie Brooklyn Navy Yard, a large number of additional skeletons were unearthed. Under the auspices of the Prison-Sliip Martyrs' Association and officials from the navy, on June Kith, the remains were ])laced with becoming ceremonies next to those ])reviously interred. A movement is on foot to erect a monument to these martyrs. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 157 followed suit, likewise the foreign ambassadors, and all the officials of the national Government, leaving New York to make the best of her natural resources, and to depend on the energy and enterprise of her own citizens." CHAPTER IX " Here's a curiositv," remarked the professor, the next time we met, haiidmg George a thin pam- phlet. " The ISTew York Directory," said George, read- ing the title-page. " Can you decipher the date ? " " 1786." " This is a reprint of the first directory ever is- sued in New York city. It has about eighty pages, some nine hundred names and addresses, includes an almanac, a table of coins, arrivals and departures of the mails, a list of the professors of Columbia Col- lege, the officers and directors of the Bank of iSTcw York (the only one in the city), and other interesting matter. It contains, also, a curious coincidence. Turn to page 63, George, and read, under the head of ' Lawyers,' the first name." " Aaron Burr, Esq., 10 Little Queen Street." " Little Queen is now Cedar Street," explained the professor. " And what name is next? " "Alexander Hamilton, Esq., 57 Wall Street." " Yon will notice that these two names are not in their Mlphabetical order, whicli ninkcs the coin- cidence all the more remarkable. Berliaps the pub- 158 160 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK lisher of the directory placed tliem together because they were the two most brilliant lawyers of their day. At any rate, there they are, and now we are ready to talk about their deplorable duel. I have already pointed out to you the difference between the Federalists, who believed in a strong 7iatio)ial Government, and the Anti-federalists, who thought more of the States than of the United States. Ilanulton was an ardent Federalist, Burr was on the other side. They were thus political enemies. Burr had been chosen Vice-President of the United States, but he believed that if it had not been for Hamilton he might have had the presidency. By and by he sought the governorship of l^ew York, and again Ham- ilton crossed his path and de- feated him. Burr then heard that Hamilton had referred to him as a dangerous man, and demanded an explana- tion. N^o doubt Hamilton, broad-minded statesman that he was, did think Burr, who stooped to the lowest tricks of a ward politician, a dangerous man, and he was too honest and too courageous to deny it. Then followed a challenge and the duel at Weehawken. "Early on the morning of July lltb, when the birds were singing and all Nature was smiling, a boat left the neighborhood of Hamilton Grange, another that of Richmond Hill, now Burr's country house, A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 161 and crossed the Hudson. An hour later they re- turned, one bearing the fatally wounded Hamilton. There is proof that he made no effort to hit his antagonist; Burr shot to kill. "When New York heard of the duel, the excitement became in- tense; when the peo- ple learned of Hamil- ton's death they were horror - stricken and too deeply grieved to express their sorrow, but their tongues were loosened when they thought of Burr, and their indignation was uttered in no uncer- tain terms. It seems that Burr had suj)- poscd himself so popu- lar that nothing could harm liim. Suddenly, to his astonishment, he discovered that he was hated and despised; fear took hold of him, he became afraid of his own shadow; and, finally, like one who dreads the hand of justice, he ran away, and was loathed ever afterward. " Meanwhile the name of Hamilton has been 13 statue of Ak'x;iiiond just above the Fifth Avenue entrance at One Hundred and Fifth Street and pointed to a hill opposite, from the top of which rose a flagstaff'. " It doesn't look very warlike," remarked Emily, impressed by the calm beauty of the scene. " Let us climb to the top," suggested the |)ro- fessor by way of reply. We did so, and were surprised to find near the flagstaff several old cannons, the appearance of which was sufficiently indicative of war to satisfy all of us. We now made our way to the old Blockliouse, situated near One Hundred and Tenth Street, and 180 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK were forcibly reminded of its excellent position by the steep ascent to its lofty perch. This was one of several, the professor explained, that guarded the roads during the War of 1812 from Hell Gate on the east to the heights near the spot where Grant's Tomb is located on the west. " On the Fourth of July last," continued the pro- fessor, " I came u}) here before daybreak to see the ceremony of raising the flag. I arrived at four o'clock, and ten minutes later heard the inspiring music of fifes and drums. Then through the en- trance at One Hundred and Tenth Street came the Washington Continental Guard and some detach- ments of the naval militia. At 4.33 the moment of sunrise, the flag was run up, and the drum corps played ' Yankee Doodle.' It was a simple but a touching act; the freshness of morning was about us, the Stars and Stripes floated beautifully in the air of freedom; I stood upon historic ground and felt the true feeling of patriotism. " The Guard soon marched off to another Block- house, which we shall visit next," said the professor, leading the way down. At One Hundred and Twenty- third Street, near Amsterdam Avenue, we paused, and saw firmly fixed on a prominent base of rocks the second Blockhouse. It had a decidedly warlike look, and but little stretch of the imagination was required to fancy the presence of cannons and soldiers. " In addition to the forts and blockhouses there were strong gates that were used as barriers. One blocked ]\I(;Gowan's Pass, and the other helped to pro- tect Manhattanville. Site of Fort Clinton in Central Park, between One Hundred and Sixth and One Hundred and Seventh Streets, near Fifth Avenue. Pho- tographed 1900. l82 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " A little to the northwest, situated on a mass of rocks was Fort Laight, named in honor of Lieutenant- Colonel E. W, Laight, of the city militia. A few years ago the remains of this fort were still visible, near the south side of One Hundred and Twenty-fifth Street, one hundred and twenty yards east of Elev- enth Avenue. " Enough of war, however," remarked the pro- fessor, " and of warlike memorials. Let us turn our attention once more to the achievements of peace. Clinton's wise administration, as I have indicated, had contributed mucli to the prosperity of the city, but he was destined to render it a greater service than any already to his credit. To cut a canal through New York State and thus to unite the Great Lakes and the Hudson was his dream and his ambition. In 1800 Buffalo was a village and Rochester a mere clearing with a single log cabin. The great fertile regions in that section, now rich with wheat, were almost bare, because it cost too much to transport the grain to Albany. At last, in 1810, after a great deal of work, the Legislature was induced to appoint a committee of investigation. Gouverneur Morris, one of New York's worthy sons, and De Witt Clinton, untiring and never satisfied that he had done enough, were on this committee. Later on, Robert Fulton was also appointed. ^' The plan contemplated a canal four hundred and forty miles in length, and an expenditure of six million dollars. Clinton saw clearly what an enor- mous benefit the city woidd derive, but his political enemies, who referred to his project as ' Tlie Big Blockhouse, One Hundred and Twenty-third Street, east of Amsterdam Avenue. Photographed liJOO. 184 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Ditcli/ hampered him at every step, and in 1824, after he had worked for fourteen years, succeeded in having him removed from the committee." " What a shame ! " exclaimed Emily. " Ay, but they hurt themselves more than they hurt him. AVhen the people heard what had been done, indignation meetings were held, and when elec- tion time came they gave him that big majority for governor that I have already mentioned. " But to return to the canal. On October 26, 1825, everything was ready to let the waters of Lake Erie into the channel that had been dug. A great celebration had been planned. There being no tele- graph in those days, cannons had been placed all along the route to give notice of the great event. At ten o'clock the first gun was fired; at eleven o'clock the Albany signal rang out; all the way down the Hudson the flashes told the story, and at 11.21 New York heard the glad tidings. In the meantime four canal boats, carrying a distinguished company, started from Buffalo. Everywhere along the route crowds were gatliorod to welcome the proud little fleet; it seemed, in fact, as if the people of the whole State had turned out to rejoice. At Albany there was a congratulatory address, a public dinner, and a grand illumination in the evening. On November 5th the canal boats reached New York. Then a great procession of all sorts of vessels, covered with flags and banners, formed, moved down the bay and out beyond Sandy Hook, salutes greeting it from the forts. " Here Governor Clinton, whose tall, well-jjro- 186 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK portioned figure always commanded attention, stepped forward, lifted on high a keg of water brought from Lake Erie, and poured the contents into the ocean, thus mingling the two waters. In the meantime a celebration no less impressive was taking place on land. A procession four and a half miles long paraded with banners and music through the principal streets. In the evening fireworks and illuminations followed, and the whole city wore an air of festivity. " It is well-nigh impossible to measure the bene- fits of the Erie Canal; it turned a wilderness into a vast fertile area, and brought into New .York the produce of these new fields. Without doubt it con- tributed more than any previous achievement to in- crease the commercial interests of the city. " Erom an ode written for the Canal Celebration I have copied the following verse that thrills with the spirit of the time: " ' 'Tis done! 'Tis done! Tlie mifflity chain Which joins brioht EriI': to the Main, For ages shall jjerpetuatc The glory of our native State! ' " While jSTew York was thus progressing in one direction, it was still backward in many ways. Its sanitary conditions were very bad, and it suffered from fearful epidemics. Smallpox, cholera, and yel- low fever in turn played awful havoc among its in- habitants. The year 1822 marked a climax and be- came known as 'the year of the yellow fever.' Everybody who could, rushed out of town. A pro- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 187 cession of carts and carriages moved np Broadway to Greenwich village, which was known to be a health- ful spot. At Liberty Street a high board fence was stretched across the island as a quarantine measure. Meanwhile, Greenwich suddenly developed into a town. Houses were put up as if by magic; banks, newspapers, and wholesale firms sprouted overnight. Bank Street, so named because the banks selected that row, is a reminder of the yellow-fever year. Thus Greenwich began to grow; it grew, further- more, in its own peculiar way, and when in later years it came in contact with the upward-moving city, its streets, having followed a direction of their own, could not be made to harmonize with those of the town, which explains why West Fourth and "West Tenth Streets, instead of running parallel, deliber- ately cross each other, to the utter confusion of peo- ple who are not well acquainted with old Greenwich ways. " Gradually greater attention was paid to sani- tary measures; foreign vessels were inspected on their arrival ; but twenty years passed ere a system of running water was introduced, and not until 1866 was the Board of Health established. " In 1825 a new wonder surprised the town. The house at No. 7 Cherry Street was lighted by gas. In it lived the President of the ISs'ew York Gas Com- pany, a recently organized corporation. About tliis time pipes were laid in Broadway from Canal Street to the Battery, and ISTew York for the first time in its history beheld a well-lighted street. Gradually other streets were thus favored, though for years the A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 189 town presented a checkered appearance, one block being dimly lighted with ancient oil lamps and an- other brilliantly illuminated from the works of the new gas company. " On December IG, 1835, a terrible fire suddenly broke out in the neiglil)orhood of Pearl and Wall Streets and wrought awful havoc. It was intensely cold; the little water that could be obtained quickly froze, and the flames spread without check. For three days the conflagration continued, and was only stopped by Ijlowing up a number of buildings with gunpowder. Six hundred and fifty houses were de- stroyed and twenty million dollars' worth of property consumed. The Dutch Church in Garden Street and a Marble Exchange in Wall Street, containing a statue of Hamilton, were among the ruined struc- tures. " A poet of that time thus gave expression to his sad thoughts on viewing the ravages of the flames: " ' Alas! that pillar'd pile! how, as I gazed Upon the blacken'd shafts, did I recall The sculptured marble there, whose brow was raised So like a god's, within that shadowy hall! Immortal Hamilton! — though crumpled deep In the red chaos of that billowy night, It needs no chisel's memory to keep Thy spirit's nobler outline vast and bright ! No time — no element can mar the fame, Gathered, like fadeless sunlight, round thy spotless name! ' " In Pearl Street, almost opposite the William Bradford tablet, there is a gray limestone memorial, consisting of a female figure, beneath which appears the following inscription: 190 A LANDMARK PIISTORY OF NEW YORK DESTROYED 1835 IN THE CONFLAGRATION 16, 17 DEC'bER. 050 BUILDINGS CONTAINING MERCHANDISE WERE CONSUMED IN ONE NIGHT. LOSS 20,000,000 OF DOLLARS. REBUILT 1836. AGAIN DESTROYED BY FIRE 1853. " The lack of water on this occasion was one of the chief causes that led to the construction of the Croton Aqueduct. Its starting point was forty miles from the City Hall, and it involved the tunnel- ing of solid rocks, the crossing of valleys by embank- ments, and of brooks by culverts. At the Harlem River it necessitated the building of High Bridge, fourteen hundred and fifty feet long and one hundred and fourteen feet above high water. It also required the erection of two reservoirs: one south of Eighty- sixth Street, called the Receiving Reservoir; the other (now being torn down to make room for our great Public Library) at Forty-second Street and Fifth Avenue, used as a distributing basin. Since then the big reservoir, extending from Eighty-sixth Street to Mnety-sixth Street, designated as the Re- taining Reservoir, has been added to the system. It covers one hundred and nine acres, and has a capacity of one thousand million gallons. "The year 1842 saw the completion of the great undertaking, and in October the city, always ready to celebrate, organiz(»d a monster demonstration. A procession, including r(>]U'esentatives of all the vari- ous trades, with floats and banners, marched through A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 191 the streets and was reviewed by the governor, mem- bers of Congress, and mayors of neighboring cities. City Hall Park was the center of interest, for here an ingeniously constructed fountain had been built, the main jet throwing a column of water sixty feet into the air, while, by shifting a plate, the spouting waters could be made to assume seven different shapes. " The people of to-day can hardly picture the city without its Croton, nor do we realize that our light touch taps a stream whose pure and wholesome source is forty miles away. The rejoicing when this blessing was bestowed upon New York is well de- scribed by the poet George P. Morris, whose words ril read you : " ' Water leaps as if delighted, While the conquered foes retire; Pale Contagion flees aflVighted With the baflfled demon Fire. Water shouts a glad hosanna, Bubbles up the earth to bless; Cheers it like the precious nuinna In the barren wilderness. " ' Round the aqueducts of story, As the mists of Lethe throng; Croton's waves, in all their glory, Troop in melody along. Ever sparkling, bright and single. Will this rock-ribbed spring appear. When posterity shall mingle Like the gathered waters here.' " A memento of the old style of water supply is still in existence in the shape of a solitary hand pump at the corner of Trinity Place and Cedar Street." CHAPTER X " The newsj^apers of the first lialf of the century were very diiferent from those of to-day. They were serious slieets intended for business offices, were expensive, and were delivered by special messengers. As a rule, none but merchants subscribed for them. The man who first thought of a bright, newsy, cheap paper is almost unknown. He was Horatio ] ). Shep- pard, and, strange to say, was not a journalist. He was a student of medicine, who used to pass through Chatham Street, where all sorts of things were sold for a few cents. He noticed that the cheapest arti- cle sold most readily; nobody seemed to mind spend- ing a cent. Suddenly the thought of a one-cent newspaper came to his mind — to be sold by boys just as peanuts and candy were sold. " Sheppard had but little money, and conse- quently sought to interest the printers of the town in his plan. They laughed at it, as people had laughed at Fulton when he spoke of a steamboat. To sell newspapers like cakes and candy seemed a ridiculous proposition. " There was one young ]n-intcr, however, who lis- tened to Sheppard. This was Horace Greeley. He was born in New Hampshire in 1811, came to ISTew 192 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 193 York wlien he was twenty, excited ridicule by his homespun clothes and his peculiar appearance, but soon convinced people that he knew what he was about. Greeley had a friend named Story; the two formed a partnership in 1832, and agreed to publish Sheppard's paper, but they insisted that the price must be two cents. On January 1, 1833, The Morn- ing Post was issued amid a terrible snowstorm. There were few people in the streets, while the news- boys were soon chilled and were glad to run home. The Post lived just two weeks and three days, and then appeared no more. " Still, the effort was not in vain. Nine months later The New York Sun was established as a one- cent paper, while Horace Greeley owed his start in business to Sheppard and his idea. In 1834 Greeley formed a new partnership and planned a weekly paper called The New-Yorker. About this time James Gordon Bennett, then a newspaper writer, came to Greeley, showed him a fifty-dollar bill and some smaller notes, and invited him to join in the ]n-oject of establishing a paper to be called The New York Herald. Greeley declined, being too much taken up with his own idea. " The first number of The Herald, price one cent, appeared in May, 1835. The office was in a cellar in Wall Street. The office furniture consisted of a chair and a plank placed across two barrels. Here Bennett wrote editorials and attended to customers. He worked sixteen or seventeen hours a day. From five to eight in the morning he wrote short, crisp edi- torials that attracted and amused his readers; dur- 14 194 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK ing tl\e regular morning business hours lie wrote ad- vertisements, sold papers, and prepared material for the printers; about one o'clock he sallied forth and picked up Wall Street paragraphs; from four to six he was back at his office; while in the evening he vis- ited a theater, a ball, a concert, or a public meeting, and gathered news and gossip. Thus The Herald began its career. " In 1841 Greeley, assisted by Henry J. Raymond, launched The Tribune. The first edition consisted of five thousand copies, and with difficulty were the papers distributed. A rival journal sought to kill the new enterprise by sending men to fight the little fel- lows who were trying to sell the new journal. Gree- ley published the whole story, and the circulation began to grow at an astonishing pace. At the end of seven weeks its edition was eleven thousand, whicli was the utmost a press of that day could print. The country l)oy, who a few years before was so poor and so wretched-looking that no one wanted to hire him, was now the most prominent editor in i^ew York. " It has been said of Greeley that he was able to produce more good editorials per year than any other editor of his time. Raymond, just fresh from col- lege, was a born journalist, and was able to do an astonishing amount of excellent work. In 1851 he founded The New York Times. Some time later Charles A. Dana joined Greeley's staff. His bril- liant services subsequently as editor of The l^ew York Sun have everywhere been acknowledged. Bayard Taylor and Margaret Fuller also contributed to the columns of The Tribune, and helped to make A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 195 it a great power and a fine newspaper. Thus, this little band of gifted and intensely hard-working journalists laid the founda- tion of the cheap press — cheap in price, but wonder- ful in every other way. " Of course, at first, news, such as we understand the term, was iinpossil)le to get, but in the year 1844 the introduction of the tele- graph system by Sannxel F. B. Morse changed the whole situation. Morse, like Ful- ton, devoted his early years to art, and then became in- terested in science. In 1832, during a trip across the ocean from Europe, he met a gentleman who explained to him certain experiments that had been conducted in Paris with the electro-magnet. The marvelous speed of the electric fluid along a wire suggested to Morse's inventive brain the idea of thus overcoming space, and on his return to New York he at once began experimenting in his studio. " It took him five years to invent and perfect an alphabet of dots and dashes, and an instrument that would properly record them. At last, however, the little key obeyed the touch perfectly, and clicked its messages as clearly as the human voice. Then Morse showed his device to the public, but, as usual, the ignorant laughed and would not believe. In 1843 a bill was introduced into Congress appropriating a 196 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK sum of money to establish an experimental line be- tween Washington and Baltimore. The last day of the session arrived, one hundred and twenty bills were still ahead of it, and Morse, after waiting un- til a late hour, went away discouraged. But the next morning came a sur- prise. News was brought to him by Miss Ellsworth, daughter of the Commis- sioner of Patents, that the bill had been passed. In May, 1844, the line was completed, a message prepared by Miss Ellsworth was successfully forwarded, and the world was in possession of a new marvel. " Morse's residence was in ]^ew York. At No. 5 West Twenty-second Street you will find a tablet that tells this storv: -.^i/j^^-Z^. 79u>^j^,u IN THIS HOUSE S. F. B MORSE LIVED FOR MANY YEARS AND DIED. " In 1853 a World's Fair was opened in ISTew York in a magnificent structure of glass and iron, called the Crystal Palace, located out in the country near Forty-second Street and Fifth Avenue. It was completely destroyed by fire in 1858. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 197 "In 1856 our beautiful Central Park was laid out. The committee that took charge of this im- portant undertaking consisted of the Mayor, the Commissioner of Streets, Washington Irving, the author; George Bancroft, the historian; and Wil- liam Cullen Bryant, the poet and author. The de- sign was the handiwork of Calvert Vaux and Fred- erick Law Olmstead, who originated the science of landscape architecture, which became recognized throughout the country. The success of their plan lay in the fact that they preserved all that was beau- tiful in Nature instead of trying to create artificial results. "In 1856 the first statue of modern ISTew York was erected — namely, that of Washington in Union Square; and about the same time a monument was placed near Madison Square to honor the memory of General Worth, of this State, who had distinguished himself in the Mexican War. "In 1857 tw^o of New York's best-known citizens, Cyrus W. Field and Peter Cooper, conceived the idea of connecting Europe and America by cable. In August, 1858, the connection was actually made, and great rejoicing followed. The City Hall was illu- minated; a big parade, including bands, banners, and floats, marched through the streets, and a splendid banquet marked the occasion. The Queen sent a message of congratulation to President Buchanan, to which he replied in the same vein; and then, strange to tell, the cable stopped working. Eight years of additional and costly experimenting fol- lowed ere the wire under water would carry messages 198 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK satisfactorily. At last, however, success was at- tained and two thousand miles of ocean were over- come. Three years later, in 18G9, New York and San Francisco were joined by the tracks of a great railroad, and the two ends of the continent, three thousand miles apart, were linked to- gether. " But I see we have been traveling a little too fast. Let me take you back to the year 1861, when the news reached New^ York that Fort Sumter had been fired upon. Many a heartache was caused by these tidings. AVas the Union, for which Washington and his noble com- rades had fought so hard, going to pieces? It seemed so. ISTew Yorkers had met and sent ear- nest appeals to their brethren in the South, asking them to pause and consider, but all to no purpose. Now it meant fight, and New York was ready to do her share. In April the troops began to leave for the front. People wdio saw the favorite Seventh depart, say it was an experience never to be forgot- ten. To quote the words of a member of the regi- ment: 'It was worth a life, that march. Only one who passed, as we did, through that tem])cst of cheers, two miles long, can know the terrible enthusiasm of 200 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK the occasion. I could hardly hear the rattle of our gun carriages, and only once or twice the music of our band came to me muffled and quelled by the uproar. We knew it now, if we had not before di- vined it, that our great city was with us as one man, utterly united in the great cause we were marching to sustain. This grand fact I learned by two senses. If hundreds of persons roared it into my ears, thou- sands slapped it into my back. ... So we said good-bye to Broadway, moved down Cortlandt Street under a bower of flags, and at half past six shoved off in a ferryboat.' " The place where the Seventh Regiment began its existence has been marked by a tablet, which you can see at the southwest corner of Fulton and Nassau Streets. It reads as follows: ON THIS SITE IN THE OLD SHAKESPEARE TAVERN WAS ORGANIZED THE SEVENTH REGIMENT NATIONAL GUARD, S. N. V. AUGUST 25, 1824. " To help on the cause of the Union, not men only but money in abundance was forthcoming. During the first year New York loaned the Govern- ment the astonishing sum of two hundred and ten million dollars — over four times as much as all the other sections of the country put together. " The women of New York also did tlieir share of good work. Early in April, 18C1, they formed a MU, Grant's toml), Riverside Drive. From a recent photograiili. 202 A I.ANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Central Relief Association, and soon thousands of women, and even children, were busy scraping lint, knitting socks, making garments, and preparing deli- cacies, while scores of tenderly reared maidens volun- teered as nurses. " Every w-ar, unfortunately, furnishes its sad me- morials. In the hall of the College of the City of New York, at Twenty-third Street and Lexington Avenue, there is a marble tablet that bears a list of names and tells the following legend : IN MEMORY OF THE GRADUATES | OF THE COLLEGE OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK WHO LOST THEIR LIVES IN THE SERVICE OF THEIR COUNTRY DURING THE WAR FOR THE UNION. " I wish the story of the war could end here, but truth compels me to tell you of an occurrence that will always cause true New-Yorkers to blush for the fair record of the city. In 1863 it was found necessary, in order to raise troops, to intro- duce the draft system, whereby men drew lots that decided whether they were to serve or not. Two en- rolling offices were established: one in Broadway near Twenty-eighth Street, the second at the corner of Forty-sixth Street and Third Avenue. A certain A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 203 element, largely foreign, assisted by rouglis, who were ready for any miscliief or worse, planned to re- sist the draft. From July 13th for four days a series of bloody, destructive, and brutal riots took place, in which over one thousand persons were killed, a great number wounded, and two million dollars' worth of property was destroyed. This crowd of brutes at- tacked the police, insulted women, pursued negroes, and hanged such as they caught to the nearest lamp post. I know of nothing more barbarous that could have happened in a land of savages." " Was this the only riot that took place in the city? " asked George. " Unfortunately not," replied the professor. " The first disturbance of this sort was known as the ' Doctors' Riot,' Avhich occurred in 1788. The New York Hospital, then located in Broadway near Du- ane Street, had been completed shortly after the Revolutionary War, and a small medical school had been opened. Rumors that bodies were being stolen from the Potter's Field and dissected, horrified the masses, and a mob attacked the doctors. The militia had to be called out, and, before order was restored, five rioters were killed and eight wounded. The year 1834, noteworthy because it marks the granting of the right of the citizens to vote for mayor, is also known as ' The Year of Riots.' First came an ' Elec- tion Riot,' followed by an attack on those who op- posed slavery; and then a ' Stonecutters' Riot,' occa- sioned by the refusal of workmen to use marble as building material. In 1835 jealousy among the militia regiments led to a fracas; and in 1837 a A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 205 ' Bread Riot/ brought about by the high price of flour, created trouble and destruction of property. In 1849 the great Astor Place Riot shocked the com- munity. This occurred at a theater that occupied the site on which the Mercantile Library is located, and was caused by the rivalry of two actors. Ma- cready was an Englishman who had been well re- ceived in America. Forrest was an American who had been insulted in England owing to Macready's hostility. In view of this fact, the latter showed poor taste in revisiting America, and a number of in- dignant citizens decided to show their resentment. The demonstration began with groans and hootings as soon as Macready appeared, and ended in a riot, in which twenty-two lives were sacrificed. " But let us turn from mobs and lawlessness and consider something worthier of our attention — name- ly, our splendid Eire Department. It began its exist- ence in 165G, when three Svorshipful ' fire wardens were appointed to inspect the wooden chimneys of 'New Amsterdam. Two years later an order was divided among the shoemakers of the town to make one hundred and twenty-two leathern buckets, which were hung up in various places. In 1731 two fire engines were ordered in London, and a room in the City Hall was set aside for them. The engines consisted of boxes on wooden wheels, and handles that could be pushed up and down. Gradually im- proved devices were introduced and volunteer fire companies organized. These companies were made up of some of the best young men of the town, and great rivalry existed among the different organiza- 206 A IjANDMAKK IIISTOIiV OF NKW YORK tions, oacli trying' to be first at ti lire. Often, col- lisions oeenrred, followed bv blows, so that instead of fighting the Haines the firemen fought each other. All this was changed in the year 1805, when a paid department was established and steam engines were introduced. Since then we have men trained espe- cially for their work, and it is safe to say no braver, (piieker, or liner force exists anywhere else in the world. Stylo of engine used in 1812. From an old print. "Most men, you will lind, attend to their own little affairs, their own ]iarticular business, but there are a few who think of larger interests. These far- sighted individuals are the ones that send the world forward. ()n(^ of these dreamers was AVilliam C. Kingsley. As far back as 18GG he began to plan a great bridge to connect New York and Brooklyn. Both places were growing rapidly, the ferry service 208 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK was not adcqiuitc, a better means of crossing was re- quired. Ivingslej interested John A. Koebling and his son, the engineers, and other influential men. In ] 870 the work was begun; the first wire was run over in 1870; seven years later the bridge was opened to the public, and the same year the first train of cars crossed the span. From end to end the bridge meas- ures a little more than six thousand five hundred feet, and up to date it has cost about twenty million dollars. " Like one of ISTature's perfect productions its beauty grows the more we look at it. As one of our poets has said, addressing it: " ' Y^ou thrill through all your cords of steel, Responsive to the living sun; And quickening in your nerves you feel Life with its conscious currents run. " ' Y'our anchorage upbears the march Of time and the eternal powers; The sky admits your perfect arch, The rock respects your stable towers.' " The year 18G6, apparently, was a favorable sea- son for dreamers. About the same time that AVil- liam C. Kingsley began to think of the possibility of a bridge, Andrew H. Green, now known as ' The Fa- ther of Greater ISTew York,' saw in his mind's eye the union of l^ew York, Brooklyn, Staten Island, and the Bronx, and during a period of thirty-two years he advocated it whenever he had a chance to do so. On January 1, 1898, his dream became a reality, and a few months later, on the occasion of his seventy- sixth birthday, a gold medal was presented to him A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 209 at the City Hall as a token of appreciation of his services. Associated with him in planning Greater New York was James S. T. Stranahan, fondly called ' Brooklyn's First Citizen,' an active member, too, of the connnittee that designed and bnilt the bridge. " The idea of forming the greater city was not merely to be able to say that New York has a popula- tion of over three million inhabitants, but to unite under one head peojik"! who really belonged to one locality, whose business interests were on Manhattan Island, although their homes happened to be beyond one of the rivers that surround it. The union, too, was meant to stir up the pride and the love of the citizens for the greater city, and make it in every sense a grand and worthy metropolis. " Let me give you an idea of what this neiu New York means. It embraces three hundred and twenty square miles, and has a population of three million four hundred thousand, making it the second city of the world. Its streets measure twelve hun- dred miles, it has over five hundred miles of street and elevated railroads, contains one hundred and sixty-seven thousand buildings, and the assessed value of its real estate is over three thousand million dollars. Its expenses per year are between eighty and eighty-five million dollars. Such has been its de- velopment from a curious little Dutch town during a period of two hundred and seventy-five years. What its size will be when it celebrates its five hundredth birthday is almost too much for the imagination. " Large figures are always impressive, but good works mean infinitely more than great numbers. It 15 210 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK is satisfjdng- to know that to-day every citizen of New York has more opportunities of improving his mind than the city ever offered before. Art, science, music — in fact, every department of knowledge — offers him free entrance. His home, his health, his safety, his rights — all are more carefully and wisely protected than ever in the past. Let him then do his full share to help establish a truly Greater iSTew York, and he will have the city that all good and loyal citi- zens devoutlv desire." CHAPTER XI We resumed oiir walks a few days after hearing the " Review of the Nineteenth Century," as the pro- fessor called his last talk. " Here is Chelsea Square," said he, leading- us down Ninth Avenue and turning westward into Twentieth Street. A few steps farther and we saw one of the most picturesque scenes to be found in New York — a large, beautiful lawn, spreading trees, and a curtain of ivy, covering red-brick chapel walls. The church bell was ringing, and students in caps and gowns were crossing the campus. " What is it? " asked Emily, deeply interested. " This is the General Theological Seminary of the Protestant Episcopal Church, and each one of those young men hopes some day to be a bishop." " It doesn't seem like New York at all," said Emily. " In that you agree with Janvier, who has written charmingly of old New York," remarked the pro- fessor. " He says this section carries him in fancy across the Atlantic to one of the English university towns." " Why is it called Chelsea ? " asked George. 211 212 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK " About the 3'ear 1750 Captain Thomas Chirke, an American soldier, built a house in this neighbor- hood, and, desiring to give it a name that would sug- gest rest and quiet, chose Chelsea, having in mind, no doubt, the expression used by English military men, * Dead as Chelsea.' About the year 1800 the prop- erty passed into the hands of Bishop Moore, and a dozen years later descended to his son, Clement C. Moore. The latter was a genial college professor, who published learned books, but his fame rests on a little rhyme written at Chelsea for his grandchildren, beginning with the well-known line — " ' 'Twas the night before Christmas.' " Prompted in all likelihood by his father the good bishop, Clement C. IMoore presented to the seminary, free of rent, the whole block it now occupies. The corner stone of the first building was laid in 1825. At tliat time the greater part of the lot was open ground, and it became known as Chelsea Square." " It surely is a beautiful, restful place," said Emily. We walked around the square, admiring its digni- fied halls, the chapel, and the cam]uis, suggesting a mixture of church and student Yiiv, and entered Twenty-third Street, where the ])rofessor pointed out London Terrace, a row of peculiar but friendly- looking houses with deep gardens and tall trees. In Twenty-fourth Street we saw the Chelsea cottages, cozy two-story boxes, with comfortable bay windows and picturesque porches — quite unlike anything else one sees in modern New York. A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 213 " Most New-Yorkers of to-day are one-sided," remarked the professor, as he led us down Eighth Avenue — " that is, they are either east-siders or west- siders, and know little of the other side of the town. Theological Seminary, Twentieth Street and Ninth Avenue. It is only by poking- your nose into out-of-the-way corners that you can discover the landmarks of old New York. Here, for instance, is a very interesting example," he added, stopping at Twelfth Street. " Abingdon Square," said George, glancing at a lamp post. " This little triangular piece of green is all that is left of Greenwich village. Round about here at one time there were beautiful lawns and fine country houses; the air was filled with the scent of flowers, and near by Manetta * brook tempted the fishermen. About the year 1750 Sir Peter Warren, vice-ad- miral, having captured many prizes on the high seas, * Sometimes spelled Minetta. 214 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK settled down in Greenwich village, built a fine man- sion, and married Miss Susannah De Lancey, a mem- ber of the great De Lancey family. Here three daughters were born, the oldest of whom became the wife of the Earl of Abingdon. After a while Warren House and the estate were sold, and this square is the only memento we now have of them. "About 1760 Kichmond Hill was built. This, as you no doubt remember, was used by Washington as his headquarters. Later Vice-President Adams lived in it; still later Aaron Burr and his gifted daughter Theodosia occupied it; and finally John Jacob Astor bought it. Subsequently it became a theater, then a tavern, and then it was pulled down. " The various epidemics of smallpox, cholera, and yellow fever that attacked the city at the lower end of the island spared the healthy neighbor- hood of Greenwich and helped, as you know, to build it up. " Toward the close of the century a State prison was erected at the foot of Tenth Street, and a part of the old wall, it is said, still stands, being now a por- tion of a brewery. " In 1816 a stage line was established connect- ing the city of l^ew York with the village of Green- wich, and the blowing of the horn announcing the arrival of the 'bus never failed to cause general ex- citement. " Here's a description in verse," added the pro- fessor, referring to his little book, " that furnishes a good picture of the rural charms of this favored spot: i A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 215 " ' In those days fair Greenwich village Slept by Hudson's rural shore, Two miles out from New York city, With its bustle, rush, and roar! Then great Gotham's " eighty thousand " Filled the New World with amaze. And the City Hall was building "Out of town" in those "fast" days! Then Canal Street was a tide creek, Famed for piscatory charms, And Broadway a county turnpike Winding northward through the farms. Then the stage from Greenwich prison Drove to Wall Street twice a day — - Now the somber " Black Maria " Oftener drives the other way! ' " Gradually tlie city began to grow up to the village, and then occurred that extraordinary tangle of streets of which I have already spoken. Old Greenwich, however, resisted the advances of the town for a long while, keeping up a sort of exclusive- ness of its own. It claimed to be cleaner, nicer, and more patriotic than any other part of the island. It is said, in fact, that nowhere else were the Fourth of July and the Twenty-second of February more en- thusiastically celebrated. But now its glory is gone. Many of the comfortable-looking three-story brick houses, with wrought-iron railings and oval windows over low doorways, are still here, but they are no longer clean or inviting. There is one relic, how- ever, that I want to show you." Walking down Tenth Street toward the river we soon arrived at Weehawken Street, and there beheld a row of low wooden houses, one or two with outside staircases, unlike any other buildings, it is safe to say. 216 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK now to be seen on Manhattan Island. They are rem- nants of what was known as Upper Greenwich Vil- lage, and are nearly three quarters of a century old. " They certainly look it," said Tom. Passing into Christopher Street and then east- ward, we turned into Hudson Street, and walked along this broad thoroughfare, noticing the names of unfamiliar streets and catching glimpses here and there of the smaller and more modest houses that suited our grandfathers. At Leroy Street we came unexpectedly upon a park that looked as if a French garden had been A glimpse of Hudson Park, Leroy and Hudson Streets. dropped bodily into this New York opening. Here was a massive kiosk, gateways, steps, grassy slopes, pools, and water jets. Children were romping about, and old people were resting on the benches. " Isn't it beautiful! " exclaimed Emily. "What is it?" asked Tom. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 217 By way of answer the professor led us along one of the pebbly walks to the eastern end of the square and showed us a stone memorial suggestive of a coffin, on which rest a fireman's hat and implements. It is a tribute to some brave fire laddies who lost their lives trying to save those of others. " Was this a cemetery? " asked George. " Read the inscription on the bronze plate," said the professor. It is as follows: IN MEMORIAM. THE CITY OF NEW YORK DEVOTED TO THE SERVICE AND COMFORT OF THE LIVING THIS GROUND, ' FORMERLY USED BY TRINITY PARISH AS A BURIAL PLACE FOR THE DEAD, WHOSE NAMES, ALTHOUGH NOT INSCRIBED, ABE HEREBY REVERENTLY COMMEMORATED. A. D. 1898. "Dear me! " ronuirkod Emily, a little shocked; " then this used to be a graveyard." " So were Washington Square, Union Scpiare, and Madison S<|uare, and some of the other parks before they were turned into resting and breathing ])laces for the living." "Was Gramercy Park, too?" asked George. That neighborhood was of special interest to the young people, as they had once lived there. " ISTo," replied the professor. " Gramercy Park is part of an old farm called by the Dutch Krom- 218 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF XEW YORK messie, meaning a crooked knife, the form of which the farm resembled. In 1831 the present inclosnre was given to owners of lots fronting it by Samuel B. Rnggles. Kear the park gate there is a stone which tells this story: GRAMERCY PARK FOUNDED BY SAMUEL B. RUGGLES | 1831 COMMEMORATED BY THIS TABLET IMBEDDED IN THE GRAMERCY FARM BY JOHN RUGGLES STRONG 1875 " This ground," continued the professor, re- calling our attention to the park in which we were standing, "was formerly a cheerless old cemetery; as Hudson Park it does reverence to the dead and brings pleasure to the living." " I remember a curious little graveyard over near Sixth Avenue," remarked Emily. " In Twenty-first Street," added the professor. " That is a Jewish burial ground, or ' Place of Rest '; it has been there over half a century, and it is cared for as zealously to-day as when country fields sur- rounded it. There are two other ' Places of Rest ' of this kind in the city; the oldest just south of Chat- ham Square — one can see it from the Elevated Rail- way — and the second at the southeast corner of Elev- enth Street and Sixth Avenue. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 219 " The subject of parks," continued the professor, " is very interesting and important. For many years, where they were most needed — that is, in the poorest districts — there were few or none ; but now, through the efforts of earnest workers, this state of affairs is much improved. Lately a breathing place was opened in Mulberry Bend, in the heart of a densely packed tenement district, and another near the foot of Grand Street. Like Hudson Park, these new pleasure squares have been made beautiful as well as useful. Within the last few years, also, the river front has been used, and fine recreation piers have been built that have, no doubt, saved the lives of many sick and suffering children." We remained here for some time, admiring the beauties of the place, and then continued our pilgrim- age southward. As we crossed Canal Street, George asked : " Was this a canal formerly? " " Yes," answered the professor. " It was the outlet of Collect Pond, and originally was quite a deep stream. The Indians used it, and their great war canoes often passed up and down under the shel- ter of its banks. When the city grew up to it, pave- ments were laid on both sides, trees and flowers were planted, and it presented a far more beautiful ap- pearance than it does to-day." A few steps brought us to the corner of Varick and Laight Streets, where we found the dignified front of St. John's church, once a conspicuous and beautiful triumph of architecture, but now fairly choked by the " commonplace of trade." 220 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " In 1803," said tlie professor, '' Trinity erected tins chapel. At that time it was so far uptown that people wondered where the congregation was to St. Jolin's chapel, Varick Street. come from, and in order to attract settlers to its vicinity a fine park was laid ont where that ngly freight depot now stands. The park was a thing of beauty in its day, and soon many of the best people of the town moved into the neighborhood. Among those wdio came were the families of Alexan- der Hamilton and General Schuyler. Each family owned its house and possessed a key that opened the massive gates of the park, from which all outsiders were rigorously excluded. After a time, however, the uptown movement began, the charact(>r of the place changed, and the old square was deserted; but the church, faithful to its trust and unmindful of fashion and favorite localities, remained to fulfill its duty." A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 221 " So did St. Paul's and Trinity, did tliey not? " asked George. " Yes, and that makes them particuhirly interest- ing from a historical point of view." A short ride brought us to Broadway and Vesey Street, where we entered the gateway of St. Paul's. " Why don't they have a door in front? " asked Tom. ^' This isn't the front — it's the rear. When the church was built, in 1766, Broadway was not of much account, while the direction of the Hudson — there was a clear view then to the river — was regarded as the proper place for the portal. You can imagine the effect, after service, of walking out and seeing the noble stream flowing by at the foot of a gently sloping landscape." We went into the simple house of worship, looked at the many memorials, but were particularly inter- ested in two bronze tablets. The first, erected in 1889, contains this legend: IN COMMEMORATION OF THE CENTENNIAL OF THE INAUGURATION OF GEORGE WASHINGTON THE FIRST PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES APRIL THIRTIETH MDCCCLXXXIX ERECTED BY THE AISLE COMMITTEE AT SERVICES HELD IN ST. Paul's chapel, n. y. 222 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK The second bears this inscription: THIS TABLET IS ERECTED IN COMMEMORATION OF THE CENTENNIAL ANNIVERSARY SERVICES OF THE DEATH OF HIS EXCELLENCY GENERAL GEORGE WASHINGTON COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE ARMIES OF THE UNITED STATES DURING THE WAR OF THE REVOLUTION OBSERVED AT ST. PAUL's CHAPEL, ON THE BROADWAY, NEW YORK DECEMBER 14. 1899. GENERAL SOCIETY OF THE CINCINNATI SONS OF THE REVOLUTION IN THE STATE OF NEW YORK "' These two bronze plates," remarked the pro- fessor, " are like two milestones on the path of time. The one calls attention to the date of Washington's inauguration; the other, erected ten years later, com- memorates his death. The hundredth anniversary of this sad event, which caused the wdiole nation to monrn, has suggested some lines which yon may like to know. Here they are: " ' Time dims the lengthening scroll of fame. Year after year the honored tracings fade. And many an erstwhile well-remembered name Sinks slowly into faint and glimmering shade, And is entirely forgot. Not so with thee: Thy fame is like the everlasting hill ; A hundred years sweep on destroyingly, And wreck the work of man, but thou art still, In spite of time and death, a living power. Whose force is felt througliout the broadening land, A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 223 Inspirino- nmltitudes who bless the hour Tliat jihiced the patriots' weal in thy safe hand. A century its varying course has run. But names thee still the nation's noblest son.' " After listening to this worthy tribute, we passed slowly through the churchyard, pausing here and there to look at an old tombstone, and, reaching the Broadway section, stopped in front of the Mont- gomery monument. " You know, of course," said the professor, " that Montgomery was one of those brave young officers who lost their lives in the Revolutionary War. He was born in Ireland in 1736, and assisted in the cap- ture of Quebec in 1759. Just before the war he bought a beautiful estate on the Hudson, married a daugliter of Robert R. Livingston, and looked for- ward to a life of peaceful happiness. But when the patriot cause called, he answered at once. He led an army into Canada, captured Montreal, and on the last day of the year 1775, in the midst of a blind- ing snowstorm, attempted to take Quebec. Placing himself at the head of his troops, and shouting, ' Men of N^ew York, you will not fear to follow where your general leads — march on! ' he fell, mortally wound- ed. His remains were interred with honor in Que- bec, and rested there until 1818, when the State of New York had them transferred to St. Paul's. A special boat covered with emblems of mourning conveyed the body down the Hudson. Slowly it passed his beloved country seat, the strains of a sad dirge rising softly to the porch where sat his widow, quite alone, gazing down upon the coffin of her hero. MuutgoiiRTy's loinb, 8t. I'liul's chuifli. Pbotograiihcd 1900. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 225 Who will describe her feelings as that strange fu- neral boat drifted along before her tear-dimmed eyes? "When her friends came to get her they fonnd her lying prostrate in a swoon. " Two other noble Irishmen are honored here," continued the professor. " That shaft to the left bears the name of Thomas Addis Emmet, and the one to the right that of William James Maci^even. These two distinguished men were leaders in the movement begun in 1795 to free Ireland. They came here about 1804 and won distinction, the first as a lawyer and the second as a physician. The in- scrijition on MacXeven's monument must touch the patriotic spirit of every true American. ' In the cause of his native land,' " read the professor, " ' he sacrificed the bright prospects of his youth^ till in America he found a country which he loved as truly as he did the land of his birth.' " " How interesting everything becomes when you know something about it! " remarked Emily, as we walked down ]3roadway toward Trinity. " Yes, and it makes you like things you never cared about before," added Tom. " How old is Trinity? " asked George. " The first Trinity was dedicated in 1697, en- larged in 1737, and destroyed by the great fire of 1776. The second church was dedicated in 1790, in the presence of Washington, and for nearly fifty years served the congregation. In 1839 it was deemed unsafe and was pulled down, the present fine structure being completed in 1846. " Trinity may properly be called a mother of 16 Triuity church. From a recent photograph. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 227 churches, for to its aid and influence no less than fifty places of worship owe their existence, not to mention three colleges and several other public in- stitutions." " Look at these beautiful bronze doors," said Emily; "they are quite new." " Yes, they were given a few years ago in mem- ory of John Jacob Astor," explained the professor. " There is one at the south side entrance that I think will specially interest you." Here we saw the fine tablets representing " Henry Hudson off IManhattan Island," " Washing- ton at St. Paul's in 1789," and " The Consecration of Trinity in 1846." Entering the church, we re- mained some little time under its noble arches, im- Hamilton's tomb. pressed by the sacred quietness that reigned within, while out of doors all was hurry and bustle. "Where is Hamilton's tomb?" at length asked George. A few steps brought us to the simple monument A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 229 in the churcliyard, and here we read this inscrip- tion: THE PATRIOT OF INCORRUPTIBLE INTEGRITY, THE SOLDIER OF APPROVED VALOR, THE STATESMAN OF CONSUMMATE WISDOM, WHOSE TALENTS AND VIRTUES WILL BE ADMIRED BY GRATEFUL POSTERITY LONG AFTER THIS MARBLE SHALL HAVE MOULDERED INTO DUST. Wandering al)ont we fonnd many names that we recognized, snch as De Lancey, Dnane, and Beekman, which Tom remarked made him think of street signs. All at once Emily beckoned to us and pointed to these tender words : " Here a pretty baby lyes, Sung to sleep with lullabys; Pray be silent, and not stirre The easie earth that covers her." Then George called onr attention to a new-look- ing stone over the grave of William Bradford, the first printer, which contains this verse: " Reader, reflect how soon you'll cjuit this stage ; You'll find but few attain to such an Age. Life's full of Pain, Lo here's a Place of Rest, Prepare to meet your God, then you are blest." A footnote calls attention to the fact that the origi- nal stone is in the rooms of the New York Historical Society. " Charlotte Temple," said Emily, reading the name on a plain slab lying flat on the ground. 230 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK " The Shrine of Unhappy Love/' added the pro- fessor. " Many people come here and drop a tear or a flower for poor Charlotte. The story is that she left her home in England and came here with an army officer, and that he then deserted her, leaving her to die in misery and poverty. A romance has been written telling the whole unhappy story, but whether it is true or not, and whether there ever was a Charlotte Temple, is a mystery that has not been solved." Emily lingered for a time, but we wandered on, noting where Albert Gallatin, the great financier, lies at rest; where Robert Fulton is buried in the Livingston vault, and where the gallant General Kearny, who fell in Virginia in 18G2, is interred. In this neighborhood stands the bronze statue of Dr. John Watts, first Judge of Westchester County, and founder of the Leake and Watts Orphan House; and near the Broadway entrance is the tomb of Cap- tain James Lawrence, the heroic commander of the Chesapeake, who, dying, spoke those undying words, " Don't give up the ship ! " " We haven't looked at that big monument," re- marked Tom, pointing in the direction of the soldiers' memorial. When we reached it we found this inscription : SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF THOSE BRAVE AND GOOD MEN WHO DIED WHILST IMPRISONED IN THIS CITY, FOR THEIR DEVOTION TO THE CAUSE OF AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE. A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 231 " Wlienever I tliink of this fitting remembrance of unknown heroes," said the professor, " I can not help picturing to myself the sufferings of those un- fortunates who died in the sugar houses and on the terrible prison ships. For some reason the design has never been completed, the original intention hav- ing been to place the marble figure of a Continental soldier above the inscription. Do you notice, by the way, that the monument is directly opposite Pine Street? It was so placed, it is said, to prevent the city from cutting a street through the churchyard. " There is a newer memorial that also honors the heroes of the Revolution," continued our guide. " It was erected April 25, 1900, in the Dutch Col- legiate Church at Fifth Avenue and Forty-eighth Street by the Daughters of the Revolution. Its text is as follows: IN HONOR OF THE OFFICERS, SOLDIERS AND SAILORS WHO SERVED IN THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE AGAINST GREAT BRITAIN, 1775-1783. ERECTED HY THE DAUGHTERS OF THE REVOLUTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. We spent some more time looking at the well- kept graves around us, and ere we left, the professor read to us the following lines: 232 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " Where the pulse of Wall Street beats, Where the money changers go; Where along the noisy streets Runs the life tide, to and fro — Busy life of old Broadway, With its restless human sea — Here I stop and muse to-day, By the graves of Trinity. " Those beneath these quiet stones One unending Sabbath keep, And the great wheels jar their bones, But they may not mar their sleep. And they murmur not at all, Morning, noon, and night-time pass, Rain and sun, and snow-Hake fall, Careless footsteps tread the grass. " Childish fingers press the graves, But these peaceful sleepers lie, (What a worry dying saves ! ) Quiet under every sky. Twittering bird and whispering elm! Bird and dead man, each care fiee — Here's long peace to both of them. Citizens of Trinity! " CHAPTEK XII Saunteking out of Trinity's grounds and join- ing the busy throng that hurries daily past the old graveyard, we walked down Broadway, and halted a moment at Exchange Place to admire the bronze figure of Wolfe, who saved New York from the French; and that of Clinton, who built its great canal. On the west side of Broadway, at 'No. 55, there is a narrow passage between the high buildings. It was known long ago as Tin Pot Alley, and a modern terra-cotta tablet recalls the fact to those who pass it in our day. " Curious name, isn't it? " commented Tom. " Yes," replied the professor, " the English had a queer way of designating some of their streets. Marketfield, which the Produce Exchange almost en- tirely covers, was known as Petticoat Lane, because it contained the residences of some of the people of fashion; Nassau Street was originally referred to as ' The Streete that leads by the Pye Woman's ' ; Whitehall was called Shop Street; William, the Glassmaker's Street; Fulton, Partition Street; and Duane, Barley Street." " Why, here's an old cannon," remarked George, 283 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 235 pointing to one that serves as a post in front of No. 55 Broadway. " A Revolntionarj relic," explained the professor. Opposite Bowling Green we cast a parting look at the old steamship buildings which, since our first visit, had been sold to the Government to make room for a new Customhouse. Then we entered Battery Park, which, as the pro- fessor reminded us, was almost entirely made land, filled in over the shallow and rocky ground that was once swept by the tide. " In the early part of the present century," he continued, " many fine mansions occupied State Street, Battery Place, Whitehall Street, Bowling Green, and the lower end of Broadway. A reminis- cence of those days is that old-fashioned but still ele- gant house over yonder on State Street, which bears, as you see, the sign of a Boman Catholic mission. For many years Battery Park was a fashionable promenade, and presented a gay scene on pleasant afternoons. " But here we are at the Aquarium, originally called Castle Clinton, in honor of Mayor De Witt Clinton. It was one of the fortifications erected in 1812, and still shows, as you perceive, the old port holes, where once fierce cannons peered out. After a time it was changed to a place of amusement, and then became known as Castle Garden. Here Lafa- yette was tendered an enthusiastic reception in 1824. Ten years later, when new\s came of his death, a me- morial service was held in the same place. Here President Jackson was received in 1832, here Web- 236 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK ster delivered some of his great speeches, and here in 1845 President Tyler was entertained. In 1851 i//L Old mansion in St:iir Sti-iii. l'liui,,ui:ii,li( ,1 liiuo. a great demonstration took place within its walls, when Louis Kossuth, the Hungarian patriot, visited A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 237 these shores. Later an Italian opera was heard here, and Jenny Lind, the ' Swedish Niglitingale/ made her first American appearance under its roof. In 1855 all was changed, and it became a United States immigrant depot, which jJurpose it served until 1891, when it was turned over to the city, and was gradu- ally made ready for its present purpose." We spent a pleasant half hour within its walls and then paused near the water's edge to admire Bar- tholdi's Statue of Liberty. " Of course," said the professor, " you know that yonder remarkable emblem was the gift of the French Republic, and was intended to express the cordial feeling existing between itself and our own republic. How this symbol of freedom and friend- ship would gladden the heart of Lafayette could he return now to see it! The forearm was sent to America in 1876, and was shown at the Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia. Then it reposed in Madison Square until 1886, when the completed figure was placed upon its pedestal. It is interest- ing to know that the tip of the torch is three hundred and six feet above the water level, and that forty peo- ple can comfortably stand in Liberty's head. It is safe to say that no other harbor in the world has so striking, so significant, and so beautiful a symbol to greet the returning citizen or w^elcome the new arrival. " Here is a sonnet written by Emma Lazarus, of ISTew York," said the professor, consulting his little book, " that contains some beautiful thoughts re- garding Liberty Statue : 238 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK " * Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame, With conquering limbs astride from land to land ; Here at our sea-washed, sunset gates shall stand A mighty woman with a torch, whose flame Statue of Liberty. Is the imprisoned lightning, and her name Mother of I'^xiles. From her beacon hand Glows world-wide welcome; her mild eyes command The air-bridged harbor that twin cities frame. "Keep, ancient lands, your storied pomp! " cries she With silent lips. " Give me your tired, your poor, Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, The wretched refuse of your teeming shore. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 239 Send these, the homeless, tem2)est-tost, to me; I lift my lamp beside the golden door ! " ' " It is perhaps hardly fair, after looking at this great figure of Liberty, to turn to a small statue, but Captain Ericsson, I think, will not suffer. It has been said that no greater engineer ever lived. He was born in Sweden in 1803, and came here in 1839. A list of one hundred important inventions is the record Ericsson has left behind him, more than one for every one of his eighty-six years of life. The best known, of course, is the Monitor — that wonderful machine that saved the Union. He oifered his plan to the Government, and, like Fulton, was laughed at by those who ought to have known better. Fortunately, some few lis- tened, understood, and won him the opportunity to serve, without pay of any kind, the country he had learned to love. " Note the four plates that show his principal works — the Monitor, the Steam Fire Engine, the Ro- tary Gun Carriage, and the Princeton, the pioneer ship of our steam marine." " And here is a tablet," said George, reading the inscription: THE CITY OF NEW YORK ERECTS THIS STATUE TO THE MEMORY OF A CITIZEN WHOSE GENIUS HAS CONTRIBUTED TO THE GREATNESS OF THE REPUBLIC AND TO THE PROGRESS OF THE WORLD. APRIL 26, 1893. 240 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Leaving Battery Park and entering Broadway, which we were never tired of following, with its in- teresting landmarks and its busy modern life, we noticed, at the entrance of No. 19, two fine stone lions, and learned that this was once the residence of Daniel Webster. Our next stopping place .was the corner of Pearl and Broad Streets. 3| 3 ,Lit!T!IK3 3^]3 ■■^ Fraunccs's Tavern, corner Pearl and Broad Streets. From a recent photoj^raph. "Do yon see that building?" said the professor, pointing to the southeast corner ; " that is a genuine old-timer." A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 241 '' Frainices's Tavern," read Emily, glancing at the words painted in big letters above a restaurant. " ' The Oldest Landmark in the City; Washington Long l\oom.' " "What does it mean?" asked Tom. " It was a famous tavern, erected in 1730, and there, somewhat altered, it still stands, being, with- out doubt, one of the oldest buildings in the city. Taverns, in the time of colonial New York, were popular meeting places, and many important and in- teresting gatherings took place in their * long rooms,' as they were called. Before we go let us look at the tablet on the Broad Street side." We found it easily, and George as usual read the inscription: FRAUNCES TAVERN — TO THIS BUILDIXG GENERAL GEORGE WASHINGTON CAME EVACUATION DAY, NOV. 25, 1783, AND ON THURSDAY, DKC. 4th FOLLOWING, HERE TOOK LEAVE OF THE PRINCIPAL OFFICERS OF THE ARMY YET IN SERVICE. ERECTED BY THE SONS OF THE REVOLUTION. " Can we see the Long Room? " asked Emily. " Certainly," responded the professor, leading us up a short flight of steps to a very modern eating room. A pleasant-looking lady greeted our guide, as if she knew his errand, and showed us a round ma- hogany table, a cupboard, and some old bricks, all of which she said were relics of Fraunces's Tavern. The pictures and inscriptions hanging on the walls, refer- 17 242 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK ring to historical events, immediately attracted our attention, and gave tlie place an interesting air. At Exchange Place we paused and looked up the steep incline of this narrow lane. "■ In 1825," said the professor, '' a fine building known as the Merchants' Exchange was erected here at the corner of Broad Street and Exchange Place, but before this time business men used to meet here; and a law was passed in the early days forbidding boys to coast down this hill during certain hours, so as not to upset merchants who gathered daily in this neighborhood." We had a good laugh at the picture suggested by the probable results of such coasting expeditions, and then turned our steps toward Wall Street, and paused, to use Stedman's words — " Just where the Treasiuy's marble front Looks over Wall Street's mingled nations; Where Jews and Gentiles most are wont To throng for trade and last quotations; Where, hour by hour, the rates of gold Outrival, in the ears of people The quarter-chimes, serenely tolled, From Trinity's undaunted steeple." Before us was the splendid statue of Washington, and the following inscription: ON THIS SITE IN FEDERAL HALL APRIL 30, 1789, GEORGE WASHINGTON TOOK THE OATH AS THE FIRST PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. statue of WasUiugtou, Subtroasuiy liuilding. Customhouse beyond. From a recent photograph. 244 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK " This is sacred ground," said the professor; " it is the precious spot where the union of the States was officially cemented by inaugurating the first Presi- dent. From that moment the glorious career of the United States began, and, as I trust you will always remember, the ceremony that meant so much in our history, took place right here in New York. " The whole neighborhood is interesting. As you know, this site was once occupied by Federal Flail; then it served as the location of the Custom- house; and now it is the Subtreasury. ISText to it is the Assay Office, and on the next block, where you see those twelve single-stone granite columns, is the present Customhouse (formerly a Merchants' Ex- change), which is soon to have a new home where the old Dutch fort used to be. " Many important meetings have been held in this vicinity. On that awful day in April, 1865, when news reached New York that the great, good, and gentle Lincoln had been struck down by an as- sassin, throngs of excited men filled Wall Street. At noon a sort of mass meeting was organized, and from these steps of the Subtreasury solemn and eloquent speeches were delivered. Among those who spoke was James A. Garfield, who, little dreaming what the future had in store for him, sixteen 3'ears later met a similar fate. " On November 25, 1883, the hundredth anniver- sary of the evacuation of the city by the 33ritish was celebrated on a grand scale. It was on this occasion that this statue of Washington was erected. It was unveiled by Governor Cleveland, accepted on behalf A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 245 of the United States by President Arthur, after which an ora- tion was delivered by George William Cnr- tis." " I know of an- other statue of Wash- ington in Riverside Park," remarked Em- ilj. " Yes, near Eighty- eighth Street. That is a copy of a well-known statue in Richmond, designed by Houdon, a celebrated Ereneli sculptor, who was a friend of Eranklin and of Washington. It may be news to you that the Riverside bronze was a gift of the children of the pul)lic schools of this city. " You have prob- ably noticed," contin- ued the professor, pointing to Washing- ton's form above us, " that there is a sec- statue of Washington, Eighty-ninth Street and Riverside Drive. Pho- tographed 1900. It bears this inscription : A TRIBUTE FROM THE PUPILS OF THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK 246 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK ond inscription here, stating that the statne was erected by vohmtary subscriptions under the aus- pices of the Chamber of Commerce. That com- mercial body is a very old institution. It was organized in 1770, and its early meetings were in Fraunces's Tavern. The most prominent men of the city joined it, but, owing to the Revolution, little was accomplished during its first years. It kept alive, however, and to-day it comprises a fine body of men who help to secure good laws, seek to amend bad ones, aid communities all over the world who suffer from floods, fire, or famine, and originate and lead many a worthy public and patriotic movement. Their rooms are near by, and are well worth a visit." In the Mutual Life Building, which occupies the site of the old Dutch Church, and the old Post Office, we found the spacious quarters of the Chamber of Commerce, and saw its magnificent collection of por- trait paintings, representing more than one hundred men of note. We were particularly interested in the well-known full-length picture of Hamilton, by Trumbull; and in the group, called ''Planning the First Ocean Cable," by Huntington, in which the forms of Cyrus W. Field, Peter Cooper, and Samuel F. B. Morse are specially noticeable. "In 1889, the Federal Union having reached its hundredth birthday, the people of New York made up their minds to celebrate the event in a manner befitting the remarkable growth and the wonderful prosperity of the country, as well as the eminent suc- cess of our form of government. One feature of this celebration was a reproduction, as nearly as pos- A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 247 sible, of Washington's journey to New York in 1789, President Harrison left the capital by train early on April 29th, and reaching Elizabethport boarded a dis- patch boat that brought him opposite Wall Street, in the East River. Thence a barge, rowed by twelve pilots, conveyed him to the landing place, where the governor and the mayor received him and escorted him to the City Hall, to take part in a reception. The next day he attended service at St. Paul's, just as Washington had done a hundred years before. In the afternoon, on a large platform erected in front of old Federal Hall, the President sat in a chair used by Washington, and, surrounded by a notable gather- ing of distinguished men, listened to an ode entitled ' The Vow of Washington,' written by John G. Whit- tier, and to an oration delivered by Chauncey M. Depew. " Parades, illuminations, banquets, speeches, mu- sic, and other forms of rejoicing made up the pro- gramme of a three days' jubilee, a memento of which remains in the shape of the noble marble arch in Washington Square. Thus the second century of the republic was begun. " Three years later the. four hundredth anniver- sary of the discovery of America was fittingly ob- served by ISTew York in a celebration that began October 8th and ended October 12th, with the un- veiling of the beautiful Columbus Column at Eighth Avenue and Eifty-ninth Street, a gift to the city by its Italian citizens. " But we have been wandering," remarked the professor; "let us return to Washington and the A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 249 year 1789. Do yon remember where liis New York house was located? " " In Cherry Street," answered George. " Correct. I presume you have never taken a look at that street, which was once an aristocratic neighborhood and is historically interesting. We can go there now." As we were passing through William Street be- tween John and Fulton, the professor informed us tliat Washington Irving was born there. " A few months before the British evacuated New York, in April, 1783, he opened his eyes upon a world that was to bring him fame and honor. Natu- rally enough, his mother named him after the most popular man of the day. Six years later, a Scotch maid servant, having young Washington in charge, saw the President and followed him into a shop. Presenting the lad to the great man, she said ex- citedly, ' Please, your Honor, here's a bairn was named after you.' The grave Virginian, so the story goes, placed his hand on the boy's head and gave him his blessing, little dreaming that he was doing a gra- cious act to his future biographer." " Was he born over there? " asked Emily, point- ing to two old houses on the east side of the street. "No; his birthplace was pulled down some time ago. It is quite possible, though, that the two resi- dences across the way were here in Irving's boyhood days; in fact, some people claim that they are the oldest houses in the city." "Why is this called William Street?" asked George. 4i....i* Columbus C'oluiiin, Fifty-uinth Street and Eiglitli Avenue. From a recent photograph. A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 251 " After William Beekman, in whose honor Beek- man Street was likewise named. He owned a large tract of land in this neighborhood, a portion of which was a swamp. The leather trade now occupies this section, which is still known as The Swamp." Reaching the bridge, we walked eastward and soon reached the junction of Jacob and Frankfort Streets. " We are now on ground that nsed to belong to Leisler," explained the professor. " Jacob was his first name, and Frankfort the city of his birth, both of which are here perpetuated." Our next halting place was the pier of the bridge at Cherry Street, where we found a new tablet con- taining this inscription: THE FIRST PRESIDENTIAL MANSION NO. 1 CHERRY ST., OCCUPIED BY GEORGE WASHINGTON FROM APRIL 23, 1789, TO FEBRUARY 23, 1790. ERECTED BY THE MARY WASHINGTON COLONIAL CHAPTER DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION. We took a peep down Cherry Street, but its ap- pearance did not tempt us to linger, and we pro- ceeded to Rose Street, where at the corner of Duane the modern Rhinelander Building stands on the site of the old Rhinelander sugar house. " Here is a curious reminiscence of the time when 252 A LANDMARK TITSTORY OP NEW YORK the British held New York during the Revolution," said the professor, pointing to a small barred window to the left of the entrance. " That is a relic of the original sugar hpuse. Through those rusty iron bars many a poor suffering patriot soldier looked out and sighed for freedom or perhaps for death. " We are not far from another old prison that I promised to show you," continued the professor; " the old Provost, now the Hall of Records, the con- tents of which, by the way, are soon to be transferred to a fine new building." Reaching City Hall Park, we entered the struc- ture where once the wicked provost marshal Cun- ningham ruled with brutal sway. We examined the dark dungeons in the cellar, and then visited the upper floor, sarcastically called Congress Hall, where Ethan Allen and other distinguished prisoners were kept. There are many interesting and valuable maps stored here at present, and a vast collection of real-estate records, the earliest in the full, round handwriting of the Dutch. "Whose statue is that?" asked Emily, as we emerged from the Hall of Records and faced Printing HouseScjuare and its great news]iaper buildings, where the pen and the press perform their mighty functions. " That is Benjamin Franklin, who, as you know, began life as a printer, and so is in appropriate sur- roundings here; and just beyond, in front of the Tribune Building, is the figure of Horace Greeley. Some day, no doubt, the other pioneer newspaper founders will be similarly honored. " You remember, no doubt," continued the pro- A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 253 fessor, " that this is the old Common where the lib- erty-pole struggles took place, and where the people met to discuss the actions that affected their rights. And now, after more than a hundred years, it is still the meeting ground of the citizens' representa- tives, where laws are made and the city's interests are guarded." Following our guide we mounted the broad flight of steps that leads to the entrance of the City Hall, and began our tour of the building by visiting the governor's room, the scene of many state occasions. Here we found a number of interesting objects: the desks of Washington, Adams, and Jefferson, and some of the original furniture used in old Federal Hall, on which is carved the national coat of arms; portraits of many distinguished patriots, including Washington, Hamilton, and most of the Governors of iSTew York; also a painting of Peter Stuyvesant, and oft' in one corner the little twig that once formed a portion of his famous pear tree. " Can we see where they make the laws? " asked Emily. " Certainly," answered the professor; " every citizen has a right to come here and see what those who represent him are doing — it ought, in fact, to be called Citizens' Hall. There are two kinds of rep- resentatives: councilmen, or members of the upper house, elected for four years ; and aldermen, or mem- bers of the lower house, elected for two years. There are twenty-eight councilmen and sixty alder- men, each councilman, therefore, representing a larger district than that of an alderman. -«^ MH^! itie^^Wif'Srww A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 255 " Properly speaking, the measures passed by the two houses are called ordinances or resolutions. Ac- cording to their character, they require the votes of a majority, three quarters, four fifths, or of all the members of both houses. Then they are submitted to the mayor, who has ten days in which to approve or veto. In case he does not desire to do either, he can allow ten days to pass, and then the bill becomes effective. Even after his veto a measure may be put in operation if the two houses pass it again by a vote of two thirds, or of five sixths in case the ex- penditure of money is involved. " As you can see, the mayor has great power. It is his province, furthermore, to see that ordi- nances are executed. He also has the right to ap- point a number of important officials, and to re- move them. " You now know about the legislative and the executive branches; the third is the judicial, com- posed of civil justices, city magistrates, and coroners, why apply the law, see that justice is done, that rights are respected, and law-breakers punished. " But this is not all that the city undertakes to do. It protects us against bodily violence by furnishing the Police Department; against fire, by providing the Pire Department; against disease, by giving us the Health Department; it educates us in its public schools, and lays out for our pleasure public parks and recreation piers. To keep this vast machinery going, and to raise the necessary funds, in the shape of taxes, necessitates other departments, of which you will learn as you grow older." 256 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Having had this explanation we visited the Coun- cil Chamber and the Aldermen's Room, both of which are impressive, and contain interesting por- trait paintings. We also inspected the mayor's of- fice, the City Library, and finally the Marriage Room, which is the smallest and simplest of all. Emerging from the building and descending the steps, we turned our attention to a tablet differing from all the others we had seen, in that it was sunk into the pavement. We knew, from accounts we had read, that it referred to the Underground Railway, and we were particularly interested in it because it commemorated an undertaking of our own time, the progress of which we were eagerly watching from day to day. The inscription is as follows: AT TniS PLACE, 24TH MARCH, 1900, HON. ROBERT A. VAN WYCK MADE THE FIRST EXCAVATION FOR THE UNDERGROUND RAILWAY. RAPID TRANSIT COMMISSION. A. E. ORR, PRESIDENT. CHARLES STEWART SMITH, JOHN H. STARIN, MORRIS K. JESUP, WOODBURY LANGDON, R. A. VAN WYCK, MAYOR. GEORGE L. RIVES, BIRD S. COLER, CONTROLLER. WILLIAM BARCLAY PARSONS, CHIEF ENGINEER. CONTRACTORS. JOHN B. MCDONALD, RAPID TRANSIT SUBWAY' CONSTRUCTION COMPANY. AUGUST BELMONT, PRESIDENT. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 257 " And so ends the story," remarked the pro- fessor. The young people began to express their thanks, but the professor interrupted their little speeches by saying: " You have thanked me long ago. The ap- preciation you have shown was a very satisfactory reward for the trouble I have taken. I was aware from the beginning that you were proud of your city and loved it, and now that you know its landmarks and their history, I feel certain that it has a deeper hold on your affections than before. You under- stand, too, what the city owes you; remember, like- wise, what you owe the city. See to it, when the time comes, that you do your duty, help to select and to elect the right kind of officials, and devote some time and make some individual effort to render the city better, wiser, happier, healthier, and more beau- tiful as you grow up with it." 18 ORIGIN OF STREET NAMES AMiu/don Square owes its name to the Eai'l of Abingdon, who married one of the daughters of Sir Peter Warren, the founder of Greenwich. (See Greenwich Street.) Allen Street perpetuates the name and fame of Captain William Henry Allen, one of the heroes of the War of 1812. He was only twenty-nine when he died, but left behind him a brilliant record. Ann Street. — Owners of land frequently bestowed on paths that were cut through their property the first names of their wives. Avduhon Areniie recalls tlie name of the celebrated ornitholo- gist, John James Audubon. Bank Street owes its title to a fever epidemic that broke out in New York in 1822, when many people hurriedly left town. A row of hastily erected buildings, principally used by banks, was then built in the vicinity of the present thoroughfare. Barelaij Street, cut through church property, perpetuates the name of the Eev. Henry Barclay, tlie second rector of Trinity Church. Battery Place is a reminder of the fact that in 1693 a plat- form was erected in this vicinity to serve as a batter^y. In 1753 this was enlarged. Bayard Street preserves tlio name of Nicholas Bayard, nephew of Peter Stuyvesant, who played an important part in the early history of the city, especially during the Leisler troubles. He filled the position of mayor and occupied other official posts. The Bayard farm lay between Canal and Bleecker Streets and between Maedougal Street and the Bowery. Beach Street, a corrujjtion of Bache Street, was named in honor of Paul Bache. a son-in-law of .Vnthony Lispenard. (See Lispenard Street.) Beaver Street was a very apino])riate name for a thoroughfare 258 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 259 in old New York, especially as it happened to be a fur district. The beaver played an important part in New Amsterdam's early history. Van der Donk, one of the lirst to write a description of the colony, devoted special attention to " the wonderful char- acter and habits of the beavers." Bcekman Street is a part of the old Beekman farm, and honors the name of William Beekman, who came to New Nether- land with Peter Stuyvesant and soon became prominent. The Beekman farm extended about a block north and south of the present Beekman Street, and from Nassau Street over to the East River. (See William Street.) Benson Street recalls the name of Judge Egbert Benson, the first President of the New York Historical Society. Beth line Street honors the name of the Bethune family, note- worthy philanthropists, whose work was of special significance in connection with the improvement of the Five Points. Bleeeker Street recalls the name of the Bleeeker family, and especially of Anthony Bleeeker, who for many years was active and prominent in the literary world. Boicery, in Dutch, means a farm. From Stuyvesant's Bou- werie, in the neighborhood of Third Avenue and Thirteenth Street to the city there was a path naturally called Bowery Lane. This was afterward named Bowery Road, and finally The Bowery. Bowling Green owes its name to the fact that in 1732 it was leased as a bowling green to three citizens who lived in the neighborhood. Bridge Street locates a bridge that at one time crossed the Broad Street ditch. Broad Street was originally a ditch or inlet, known as the Breede draft, or Broad Canal. Broome Street was named after John Broome. Lieutenant- Governor of New York State in 1804. and a prominent member of many commercial and charitable institutions. Canal Street was originally a real canal — forty feet wide, with a promenade and trees on each side of it. It carried the water from the old Collect Pond to the Hudson River. A stone bridge crossed it at Broadway, and this is now below the pave- ment of that busy thoroughfare. Cedar Street and other streets bearing the names of trees suggest the wooded character of Manhattan Island during its early period. Centre Street indicates its location midway between the 200 A LA>'DMAEK HLSTORY OF NEW YORK Hudtjon and East Kivers. Another explanation attributes the naiue to the fact that the street markt- a path through the cen- ter of the old C-ollect Poni Cheace are deserving of the highest honors at t)jc hands of the Htati- that gave them birth- Co'-nti^H Hlip, *j*jmmonly *;alled '* Quindiy's Slip," is a cor- ruption of ('oentje, as C>jnra«r't ten Kijck, who owned land in the neigh lxjrhf>od, was familiarly known. (.'orle^irH h^treH brinji^s U) mind Jacobus van Corleaj, who offered the use of his houw; for mIuxjI puri>os<'s U> (ioKttrnor Btuyvesant, and Anthony van Ojrlear, the trumfx't^'r, wlio, it i» aMtijimi, gave Spuyl^^n Duyvil its name when Ijc boaKt<'(■ l'( lister strict houiirs .lohanues and Abiaham de Reyster. both of wl\iMn were prominent auvl wealtliy eiti/.ens in the early days of the eity. (See the statue of .Vbraham de IVyster in lUnvliug (ireen.) Ihslno^SiS Strctt eommeuiorates the oHieial eareer of Klias Desbrosses. who oeeupied the positions of alderuuin, President of the Chamber of C'oninieree, and warden of Trinity Itiureli. ])irisht)t Street derives its nauie fri>m the faet that il ilividetl the two great fainis oi dauies Oe Laneey and Henry Rutgers. Itiiiiiie Street owes its name to dames Duaue. New York's tlrst mayor after the Revolntiiui. l\.vetiini;ie I'liiee was the site of a inereliants' e\el\auge. Kldridtje Street is a reminder ot Lieutenant Joseph t\ Kl- dridge. who lost his life in tlu" War of ISIJ. Ferrii Street was tlu- road tliat led to the lii^t t'errv front N'ew York to Brooklyn. I'teteher street was named in iuunu- of tiovernor l>eujamin Kleteher. during whose term O*'!*"-- 5*>^) printing was introdueed into (lu> colony. I'ultiiii street was named after Robert {•"niton, aiul is tlu> only memorial on Manlntttan Island to pr«>servi< the memoiy of him who helped so uuieh toward its developnu-nt. l-'rankfort Street was so ealled by ,laei>b Leisler, after his birthplace in tJermany. His estate eovereil the section through which the street was cut. I'niiiktiii Street and l'riiiil,rni S(iii(ire. it is hardly necessary to say. perpetuate the name of Renjamin l"'ranklin. danseroiirt street was uameil after I'rigailier toiieral I'eter 262 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Gansevoort, who rendered important service in checking Bur- goyne, for which he received u vote of thanks from Congress. Gocrck tStrcct and MaiKjin Street were named after the two surveyors who hiid out that section of the city about the year 1803. GoKverueitr Street recalls the Gouverneur family, which was prominent during Leisler's time. A later member of the family, Isaac Gouverneur, owned a house which, previous to the great fire of 1835, was one of the wonders of the town. Gramercy Park was originally a hill, the shape of which was like a hooked knife, called in Dutch a Krom-messje, which grad- ually was corrupted into the present English title. Great Jones Street belonged to the estate of Cliief-Justice David Jones, who tlourished during the latter part of the eight- eenth century. Greeley Square was named after Horace Greeley, founder, and for many years editor, of the New York Tribune. Greene Street honors the memory of General Nathanael Greene, whose intellectual qualities, it has been remarked, " were precisely those that have won distinction for the foremost strate- gists of modern times." Greenwich Street was the road that led to Greenwich, a name bestowed by Admiral Sir Peter Warren to a mansion he built in the section which afterward took the name of the admiral's house. The admiral was an Englishman who acquired great wealth from prizes he captured at sea. Warren Street was named after him by the Trinity corporation, of which he was an oflicer. Hanover Square was named in honor of King George, who was of the house of Hanover. Henry Street honors the name of Henry Paitgers, a prominent citizen and landowner of early New York who donated a site for the Third Presbyterian Church. His farm adjoined that of the De Lancey family, from which it was separated by Division Street, extending from that line to the East River and from Catharine to Montgomery Street. (See Rutgers Street.) Hester Street was so called by Barnet Rynders in honor of his wife Hester Rynders, daughter of Jacob Leisler. Jacob Street, according to some authorities, owes its name to Jacobus Roosevelt, who owned pro])erty in the neighborhood, while others believe tliat it was named in honor of Jacob Ijcisler. Leonard Street formed a part of the property of Anthony Lispenard. Three streets were cut through his land, to which he gave the names of his three sons, Leonard, Anthony, and A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 263 Thomas. Anthony Street was subsequently changed to Worth Street, in recognition of the military triumphs of Major-Ueneral Worth. (See the Worth JMonument, ^ladison Square.) Lewis i^tfcet honors the name of Morgan Lewis, a stanch patriot who fought through the Revolutionary War and later became Chief Justice and then Governor. Liberty IStrcet was originally called Crown Street, the name being changed after the Revolution, when all references to roy- alty were suppressed. Lispeiiard Street was named after Anthony Lispenard, to whom belonged the Lispenard meadows, a swampy district stretching along the present Canal Street from the North River to Centre Street, and down Broadway in a long, narrow loop as far as Duane Street. LoriUard Place preserves the name of Jacob Lorillard, a prominent vestryman of Trinity Church. Ludlow Street recalls the name of Gabriel Ludlow, clerk of the House of Assembly and one of the original vestrymen of Trinity Church. MacdoiKjiil Street was named after Alexander Macdougal, a noted " Son of Liberty," who was arrested in 1770, on a charge of seditious libel, for which he was imprisoned in the Debtors' Prison (present Register's Office), thus becoming the first martyr in the patriot cause. Maiden Lane is the old Dutch Maayde Paatje, or Maiden's Path, a very ancient path laid out by Nature along a rippling stream shaded by overhanging trees. Here, beyond the limits of the town, the maidens and their swains founil a romantic spot to wander up and down. Maitfiin Street. (See Goerck Street.) Marketfield Street was the street that led to the market field, which purpose Bowling Green originally served. Mercer Street recalls the name of Brigadier-General Hugh Mercer, who advised the night march on Princeton, and who, in rallying his men on that occasion, received his death-blow. He occupied a high place in the esteem of Washington, and was deeply mourned by the nation. Minetta Street derives its name from a Dutch word meaning " the little one '' — that is, the little creek to distinguish it from a large creek not far away. The former creek, which originated in the marshy ground in the neighborhood of Washington Square, still flows under the pavements of modern New York. Montgomery Street honors the memory of Brigadier-General 264 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Richard Montgomery, whose last words before attempting to storm Quebec (December 31, 1775) were, " Men of New York, you will not fear to follow where your general leads! " (See monu- ment, St. Paul's Church.) Moore Street commemorates the name of Colonel Jolin Moore, a prominent merchant and official. Another explanation at- tributes its name to the fact that vessels were " moored " in the vicinity. Morris Street suggests the well-known name of CTOUverneur Morris, who, besides occupying many important public jjositions, was one of the street commissioners appointed in 1807 to lay out the new streets, which resulted in a city of rigid straight lines and right angles. Morton Street iionors the name of John Morton, a well-known merchant of old New York, who advanced large sums to the Con- tinental Congress. Mott Street was named after a successful butcher, Joseph Mott. Murray Hill took its name from the Murray mansion. It was here that the mother of Lindley Alurray, the grammarian, entertained the British generals, so the story goes, while Putnam and liis tired forces nuide their escape from the lower point of the island to Harlem. Murray Street brings to mind the name of John Murray, Jr., who was one of the original thirteen trustees of the New York Free School Society, which in 1800 began its first session in an apartment in Bancker (now Madison) Street with forty pupils. Nassau Street honors the name of the Prince of Orange and Nassau. New Street was the first street o])ene(l by the English after taking possession of New Amsterdam. Pearl Street, the oldest street of New Amsterdam, was so called because of the pearl shells found along its path. Pell Street was named after a prominent butcher, Joiui Pell. Pitt Street. (See Chatham Square.) Perry Street honors the memory of Oliver Hazard Perry, the hero of Lake Erie. Plait Street was named after Jacob S. Piatt, a highly suc- cessful merchant. Reetor Street, being originally cliurch property, naturally owes its name to that fact. Ridge Street was an actual ridge along the top of a hill on A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 265 James De Lancey's property. The slope from Ridge Street to the river still exists. Roonei'dt IStreet recalls the name of Isaac and of his son Nicholas J. Roosevelt. The former was a member of one of the celebrated committees of One Hundred to guard the safety of New York previous to the Revolution. Later on he became Presi- dent of the Bank of New York. Nicholas was an inventor whose work in connection with steamboat machinery was valuable. A later member of the family, James Henry, the philanthropist, founded Roosevelt Hospital in 1871. A tablet affixed to one of the walls bears this inscription: TO THE MEMORY OF JAMES HENRY ROOSEVELT, A TRUE SON OB^ NEW YORK, THE GENEROUS FOUNDER OF THIS HOSPITAL, A MAN UPRRiHT I^ HIS AIMS, SIMPLE IN HIS LIFE, AND SUBLIME IN HIS BENEFACTION. Rutgers Street is a part of what was once Rutgers farm, an attractive neighborhood crossed by a shady path known as " Love Lane." A second " Love Lane " was a feature of Green- wich village. (See Henry Street.) Rutherford titreet recalls the name of Colonel John Ruther- ford, who was one of the committee that planned the present sys- tem of avenues and streets. Hheriff Street was so named in honor of Colonel Marinus Willett, the famous " Son of Liberty " who subsequently filled the office of sheriff. Willett Street also commemorates his patriotic record. Sijring Street owes its name to the discovery of a spring in that neighborhood about the year 1800, when Aaron Burr's Manhattan Banking and Water-supply Company began to fur- nish the city with drinkable water. Stone Street was the first street in New Amsterdam to be paved with stone, which achievement created a great sensa- tion. Sullivan Street honors the name of Brigadier-General John Sullivan, one of the most active officers of the Revolutionary War, who received the thanks of Washington for his services in West- 266 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Chester. In Rhode Island he fought what Lafayette pronounced to be the best-contested battle of the war. Thomas Street. (See Leonard Street.) Tompkins Street suggests the name of Daniel D. Tompkins, Governor of New York from 1807 to 1817 and Vice-President of the United States from 1817 to 1825. Tinpot Alley is a curious corruption of Tki/h Paat, meaning Garden Lane. Tryon Row recalls the name of Sir William Tryon, the last of the English Governors of New York. Vuiuhtm Street honors the name of Rip Van Dam, of Dutch descent, who in the year 1731 occupied the important post of Governor pro tern, while for a time there was no English official to fill the executive ofjfice. He was a great merchant and a prominent ship-builder. \nricli Street was cut through the property of Colonel Richard Varick, a Revolutionary patriot, who afterward became Mayor of New Y^ork. Yesey Street honors the name of the Rev. W. Vesey, Trinity's first clergyman. He preached his first sermon in Trinity Church February G, 1G97. Wall Street owes its name to the wall of palisades that origi- nally marked its path. Warren Street. (See Greenwich Street.) Water Street was so named because it consisted of land that in the early days of the city was literally under water. Watts Street preserves the memory of Jolm Watts, the last City Recorder under English rule. He was one of the assembly- men that protested against luigland's right to billet soldiers on the citizens of New York. In after years he founded the Leake and Watts Orphan Asylum. His monument is a prominent feature of Trinity churchyard. Warerley Place received its name in response to a petition from residents of the neighborhood, who were great admirers of Sir Walter Scott. Whitehall Street was the thoroughfare that led to Peter Stuyvesant's town house. Whether it was so named because of its white walls, or because Englisli governors who occupied it subsequently were reminded of London's Whitehall, is a question. Willett Street. (See Sherill Street.) William Street, like Reekman Street, perpetuates the name of William Beekman. South William Street was originally called Mill Street, and here the first Jewish synagogue was erected. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 267 Woostcr Street recalls the name of General David Wooster, a dashing officer of the Revolutionary War, who fell while gallantly leading a charge against the British at Ridgefield, Conn. Worth Street. (See Leonard IStreet.) BIBLIOGRAPHY Note. — The Dutch records of New York for a long time were almost entirely neglected. At first they were kept in this city, but when, in 1798, Albany became the seat of government, they were transferred to the oifice of the Secretary of State, excepting those that referred specifically to New Amsterdam. The latter were left in our City Hall. In 1814 the New York Historical Society (organised in 1804), anxious to preserve and render accessible the State's early rec- ords, presented a memorial to the Legislature, the result of which was a translation by Dr. F. A. van der Kemp, in twenty-six volumes, since known as the Albany Records. These records made plain the fact that much material relating to the earliest Dutch period was missing. Again the Historical Society appealed to the Legislature, but not until 1839 was action taken. In that year a sum of money was appropriated, and in 1841 John Romeyn Brodhead, attache of the American legation at The Hague, was appointed agent to examine the archives of Holland, England, and France, and obtain copies of all papers referring to New York's history. Unfortunately, twenty years before, a whole batch of im- portant records of the West India Company of Holland had been sold as waste paper. Still, Brodhead succeeded in finding many valuable documents, the copies of which filled eighty volumes, which are now in the ofiice of the Secretary of State. In 1849 certain of these jiapers were translated and issued by the State in four large volumes. This publication, known as the Documentary History of the State of New York, was the work of Dr. E. B. O'Callaglian. In 1853 it was decided to publish all the papers. Dr. O'Cal- laghan was again employed, and completed his undertaking in eleven volumes, entitling the publication Documents Relative to the Colonial History of the State of New York, procured in Holland, England, and France by John Romeyn Brodhead, Esq. Subsequently some of the West India Company's scattered 268 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK papers came to light. A few stray documents were uneartlied in 1851, and several years later another batch was found con- taining documents relating to New Netherland and to the re- capture of New York by the Dutch. In 1889, James Grant Wilson, editor of The Memorial History of the City of New York, discovered among the papers of an old Dutch family the original deed describing the purchase of Manhattan Island from the Indians for the value of sixty guilders. in the meantime the records referring specifically to New Amsterdam had remained in the City Hall in New York. Early in the century an unsatisfactory translation had been made of one volume, and thus the work rested until 1848, when Dr. O'Callaghan, before taking hold of the State's collection already mentioned, completed the task. These translations, consisting of six volumes, remained, however, for nearly half a century next to the original records, unprinted and almost unknown. A few years ago Bert hold Fernow, translator and editor of some of the colonial documents of the State, having been appointed to edit the manuscript volumes, revised the entire material, and the city published it, in 1897, in seven volumes, under the title of The Records of New Amsterdam from 1653 to 1074. HISTORIES History of New York from the First Discovery to the Year 1732, by William Smith. (With a continuation to the year 1S14.) Published originally in London, 1793. Called by its author, who was Chief Justice of the Prov- ince of New York, a narrative rather than a history. Fur- nishes evidence of the imperfect condition of the Dutch records at the time, but is interesting as New York's first history. History of New York during the P.evolutionary W^nr and of the Leading Events in the Other Colonies at that Period, by Thomas Jones. Written between the years 1783-'88. Viewed from a loyalist standpoint. " There can be no greater error than to suppose that the loyalists, as a whole, were willing to submit quietly 1o the exactions of the mother country and her invasions of tlicir rights and liberties as English subjects. As Americans they felt those grievances and were indignant, . . . but they wished A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 269 to fight the battle for those riglits and liberties . . , with the powerful weapons which the Constitution of England gave to them as to other Englishmen." New York Historical Society's Collections. First Series, 5 vols., 1809-'29. Second Series, 4 vols., lS41-'59. Proceedings, 7 vols., 1843-'4U. Collections, 24 vols., 180S-'92. (For a com- plete list of titles of the Society's publications, see R. R. Bowker's Publications of Societies.) History of the State of New York, by John V. N. Yates and Joseph W. Moulton, 1824. The Natural, Statistical, and Civil History of the State of New York, by James Macauley, 1829, 3 vols. A History of New York for Schools, by William Dunlap, 1835, 2 vols. History of the New Netherlands, Province of New York and State of New York, to the Adojition of the Federal Constitu- tion, by William Dunlap, 1839, 2 vols. Manuals of the Corporation of the City of New York (known generally as Valentine's Manuals), 1841 to 186(3 and 1808 to 1870. No issue in 1867. (See Historical Index to the Manuals. ) The History of Political Parties in the State of New York, by Jabez D. Hammond, 1847, 3 vols. History of New Netherland or New York under the Dutch Rule, by E. B. O'Callaghan, from 1492 to 1664. Published in 1845 and 1848. 2 vols. The Documentary History of the State of New York, by E. B. O'Callaghan, 1850, 4 vols. History of the State of New York, by John Romeyn Brodhead, 1853 and 1871, 2 vols. (Period covered, 1609-91.) " Descended from an English officer who helped his king to conquer Dutch New Netheiland, as well as from a colonial Hollander who stood up manfully for his Republican Father- land, I feel no partiality in telling the history of the greatest European plantation in America." — Author s Preface. Documents Relative to the Colonial History of the State of New York, procured in Holland, England, and France by John Romeyn Brodhead. Edited by E. B. O'Callaghan, 1856, 11 vols. History of the City of New York, by David T. Valentine, 1853. Illustrates the different paths pursued in extending the habitations of the town, and notes " the circumstances which operated to establish the lines of the early thorouglifares and 270 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK the laying out of the plan of that part of the city originally settled." Includes names and many biograpliical facts of the earliest inhabitants. New York City during the American Revolution, being a Collec- tion of Original Papers from the JNIanuscripts in the Possession of the Mercantile Library Association of New York City, 18(51. The Earliest Churches of New York and its Vicinity, by Gabriel P. Disosway, 18G5. History of the City of New York, by Mary L. Booth, 1867, 2 vols. " Especial care has been taken to collect the incidents of the Revolution, in wnich the city bore so prominent a part. ... In this the writer begs leave to acknowledge the kind- ness of several distinguished citizens, lineal descendants of our oldest families, who have furnished valuable documents and information."'-^A»^/(o/'"s Preface. Civil List and Forms of Government of the Colony and State of New York, by S. C. Hutehins, 1868. Battle of Long Island, by Thomas W. Field (Long Island His- torical Society Memoirs, vol. ii), 1869. History of New York City, by William L. Stone, 1872. The author had special advantages in having access to unpublished manuscripts of his father consisting of conversa- tions with such prominent men as Aaron Burr, Chancellor Livingston, John Jay, Robert Morris, Nicholas Bayard, and others. The book also contains several contributions of spe- cial value: The Narration of the Grand Erie Canal Celebra- tion; An Account of the Federal Procession in Honor of the Adoption of the Federal Constitution in 1788; and Washing- ton's Reception and Inaugural Ball in 1789, all by the author's father; and Reminiscences of New York City, by Gulian C. Verplanck. In 1872 these publications had already become very rare. History of the City of New York, by Mrs. Martha J. Lamb, 1877, 2 vols. (See History of the City of New York, by Mrs. Burton Harrison.) A comprehensive work, full of interesting details and much genealogical information. The Campaign of 1770 around New York and Brooklyn, by Henry P. Johnston (Long Island Historical Society Memoirs, vol. iii), 1878. Harlem, Its Origin and Early Annals, prefaced by Home Scenes in the Fatherlands, by James Riker, 1881. A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 271 History of New York City, embracing an Outline Sketch of Events from 1609 to 1830 and a Full Account of its Devel- opment from 1830 to 1884, by IjCusou J. Ijossing, 1884, 2 vols. " A brief history of the city from the date of its foundation until 1830, when tlie impetus which produced its most mar- velous development began to be powerfully felt. This work is essentially a social history." — Author's Preface. Colonial New York ; Philip Schuyler and his Family, by George W. Schuyler, 1885, 2 vols. A family liistory containing much general information. New York; the Planting and Growth of the Empire State, by Ellis H. Roberts (American Commonwealth Series), 1887-'89, 2 vols. New York in the Revolution (New York State Archives, vol. i), by Berthold Fernow, 1887. (Contains list of olHcers of the New York line, the navy, etc.) The Empire State, a Compendious History of the Commonwealth of New York, by Benson J. Lossing, 1888. The Story of New York (Story of the States Series), by Elbridge S. Brooks, 1888. New York City and Vicinity during the War of 1812-'15, by R. S. Guernsey, 1889 and 189.5. 2 vols. Old New York, a Journal relating to the History and Antiqui- ties of New York City, edited by W. W. Pasko, 1890-91, 2 vols. New York in the War of the Rebellion, compiled by Frederick Phisterer, 1890. The Memorial History of the City of New York, edited by James Grant Wilson, 1892, 4 vols. " A single, complete, and exhaustive work." Greater New York: Writings and Addresses by Andrew H. Green, 1893. The Story of the City of New York (Great Cities of the Republic Series), by Charles Burr Todd, 1895. New York (Historic Towns Series), by Theodore Roosevelt, 1895. A sketch of the workings of the town's social, commercial, and political life, at successive periods, and of the causes that changed a little Dutch hamlet into a huge American city. Also, an outline of the steps by which the city obtained a free political life, giving prominence to the remarkable and ever-varying conditions caused by the many race ele- ments that have repeatedly changed the character of the population. 272 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK History of the City of New York, by Mrs. Burton Harrison (forming an additional chapter to Mrs. Martha J. Lamb's His- tory of tlie City of New York), 189G. The Records of New Amsterdam from 1653 to 1674, edited by Berthold Fernow, 1897, 7 vols. The American Metropolis from Knickerbocker Days to the Present Time, by Frank Moss, 1897, 3 vols. " A reminiscent, observant, reflective journey on his- torical lines." The Battle of Harlem Heights, September 16, 1776, by Henry P. Johnston, 1897. This work brings together in convenient form for local reference all the authorities, shows that the battle was fought from the west and not the east of Morningside Heights, and introduces new details. New York in the Revolution as Colony and State, by James A. Roberts, Comptroller, 1898. Contains a list of 43,64.5 men who enlisted from New York State and served in the Revolutionary War. Historic New York (Half Moon papers), edited by Maud Wilder Goodwin, Alice Carrington Royce, and Ruth Putnam, 1898, 2 vols. Greater New York, Its Government, Financial Institutions, Transportation Facilities and Chronology. JMaps. The Even- ing I'ost Publisliing Company, 1898. Historic Towns of the Middle States, edited by Lyman P. Powell (New York City by Joseph B. Gilder), 1899. A Brief History of the City of New York, by Charles B. Todd, 1899. The Dutch and Quaker Colonies of America, by John Fiske, 1899, 2 vols. Historical Index to the Manuals of the Corporation of the City of New York ( \'alentine's Manuals), 1841 to 1870, 2,.325 ref- erences, 1900. The New Metropolis. IMemorable Events of Three Centuries (1000-1900). From the Island of Mana-ha-ta to Greater New York at the Close of the Nineteenth Century. D. Appleton and Company, 1 vol., and portfolios. History of New York State, by William Reed Prentice, 1900. A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 273 DESCRIPTIVE AND REMINISCENT WORKS Anthology of New Netlierland, or Translations from the Early Dutch Poets of New York, by Henry C. Murphy, 18(i.5. A Brief Description of New York, formerly called New Nether- lands, by Daniel Denton. Written in 1G70, this was the first printed description in English of the country now forming New York and New Jersey. Reprinted in Gowan's Dibliotheca Americana, vol. i. Journal of a Voyage to New York and a Tour in Several of the American Colonies in lG79-'80, by Jasper Dankers and Peter Sluyter, translated by Henry C. Murphy (Long Island His- torical Society Memoirs), 1SG7. A Description of the Province and City of New York, with Plans of the City and Several Forts as they existed in the Year 1695, by the Rev. John Miller, 1843. Private Journal kept by Madam Knight of a Journey from Boston to New York in the Year 1704, 1825. Memoirs of an American Lady, with Sketches of Manners and Scenes in America as they existed Previous to the Revolution, by Mrs. Anne C4rant, first published in 1808; republislied in 1876. Poems relating to the American Revolution, by Philip Freneau (written at the time), 1865. Prison Ship INIartyr; Captain Jabez Fitch's Diary. A Narrative of the Treatment with which the i\merican Prisoners were used who were taken by the British and Hessian Troops on Long Island, York Island, etc., 1776. Forty Years' Residence in America, Fifty Years' Reminiscences of New York (including Tales of the Sugar-House Prison in Liberty Street, the Yellow Fever from 1708 to 1822, and Anecdotes of the Revolution), and Laurie Todd, by Grant Thorburn, 1834, 1845, and 1852, 3 vols. The Pictorial Field P>ook of the Revolution, by Benson J. Lossing, 1855, 2 vols. The City of New York in the Year of Washington's Inauguration, 1789, by Thomas E. V. Smith, 1889. The First American; his Homes and his Households, by Leila Herbert, 1900 (chapter ii, In New York). Old New York, or Reminiscences of the Past Sixty Years, a Dis- course delivered before the New York Historical Society, November 17, 1857, by John W. Francis, 1866. 19 274 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK The Pictorial Field Book of the War of 1812, by Benson J. Lossing, 1869. Reminiscences of an Octogenarian of the City of New York (1816-'60), by Charles H. Haswell, 1896. The Picture of New York and Stranger's Guide to the Com- mercial Metropolis, by Andrew T. Goodrich, 1828. The Diary of Philip Hone, 1828-'51, edited by Bayard Tucker- man, 1889, 2 vols. Historic Tales of Olden Time concerning the Early Settlement and Advancement of New York City and State, by John F. Watson, 1832. The Old Merchants of New York City, by J. L. Scoville, 1862, 5 vols. The Market Book, a History of the Public Markets in the City of New York from its First Settlement to the Present Time, by Thomas F. Devoe, 1862. Old New York from the Battery to Bloomingdale, etchings by Eliza Greatorex, text by M. Despard, 1875. Last Days of Knickerbocker Life in New York, by Abram C. Dayton, 1882. A Tour Around New York, by Felix Oldboy (John Flavel Mines), 1893. In Old New York, by Thomas A. Janvier, 1894. Colonial Days in Old New York, by Alice Morse Earle, 1896. Some Colonial Homesteads and their Stories, by Marion Harland (Jumel IMansion, p. 276), 1897. Home Life in Colonial Days, by Alice Morse Earle, 1898. The Goede Vrow of Mana-ha-ta. 1609-1760, by ]\Irs. John King Van Rensselaer, 1898. Nooks and Corners of New York, by Charles Hemstreet, 1899. Stage Coach and Tavern Days, by Alice Morse Earle, 1900. Early New Yoi'k Houses, with Historical Genealogical Notes. by W. S. Pelletreau, 1900. BIOGRAPHIES John Jacob Astor, by Freeman Hunt (Lives of American Mer- chants), 1858; by James Parton (Famous Americans of Me- cent Times), 1867. John James Audubon, by Samuel Smiles, 1860; by his Widow, 1869. A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 275 James Gordon Bennett, by James Parton (Famous Americans of Recent Times), 1807. William Cullen Bryant, by A. J. Symington, 1880; by Parke Godwin, 1883, 2 vols.; by John Bigelow (American Men of Letters Series), 1890. Also Bryant and his Friends, by James Grant Wilson, 1880. Aaron Burr, by Samuel L. Knapp, 1835; by James Parton, 1858; by H. C. Mervin (Beacon Biographies), 1899. De Witt Clinton, by J. Renwick, 1840; by William W. Camp- bell, 1849. Public Papers of George Clinton, First Governor of New York, 1777_'95, 1801-'04. With an Introduction by Hugh Hastings, State Historian. Published by the State of New York, 1899, 3 vols. Also article by W. L. Stone (Magazine of American History, vol. iii, 329). James Fenimore Cooper, by Thomas P. Lounsbury (American Men of Letters Series), 1884; by Susan Fenimore Cooper (Atlantic Monthly, vol. lix, 199: vol. Ix, 474); by W. B. S. Clymer (Beacon Biographies), 1900. Peter Cooper, by Lloyd Bryce (North American Review, vol. clii, 410). Dongan, the Great Colonial Governor, by P. F. Dealy (Magazine of American History, vol. viii, 100). Robert Fulton, by James Renwick (Sparks's Biographies), 1838; by Thomas W. Knox, 1886; by Robert H. Thurston (Makers of America Series), 1891. Horace Greeley, by James Parton, 1869; by L. V. Reavis, 1872; by L. D. Ingersoll, 1874; by Francis Nicoll Zabriskie, 1890. Nathan Hale, by I. W. Stuart, 1856. The Two Spies (Hale and Andre), by Benson J. Lossing, 1866. Alexander Hamilton, by his son, John C. Hamilton, 1834, 2 vols.; by John T. Morse, Jr., 1876, 2 vols.; by George Shea, 1879; by Henry Cabot Lodge (American Statesmen Series), 1882; by William Graham Sumner (Makers of America Series), 1890. Henry Hudson, by Henry R. Cleveland (Sparks's Biographies), 1838; by John Meredith Read, Jr., 1806. Washington Irving, by his nephew, Pierre M. Irving, 1863, 4 vols.; by Charles Dudley Warner (American Men of Letters Series), 1884. (See also Bryant and his Friends, by James Grant Wilson, 1886.) John Jay, by his son, William Jay, 1833, 2 vols.; by William Whitelock, 1887; by George Pellew (American Statesmen Series), 1890. 276 A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK John Lamb, by Isaac Q. Leake, 1850. Jacob Leisler, by Charles F. Hoffman (Sparks's Biographies, sec- ond series), LS44. Richard ^Montgomery, by John Armstrong (Sparks's Biog- raphies), 1834; by Major-General George W. CuUum (Maga- zine of American History, vol. ii, 273). Goiiverneur Morris, by Jared Sparks, 1832, 3 vols.; by Theodore Roosevelt (American Statesmen Series), 1888. Samuel F. B. Morse, by Samuel I. Prime, 1875. William Smith, the Historian, by Maturin L. Delafield (Magazine of American History, vol. vi, 418). Peter Stuyvesant, by John S. C. Abbott, 1873; by Bayard Tuok- erman (Makers of America Series), 1893. Public Papers of Daniel D. Tompkins, Governor of New York, 1807-'17, with an Introduction by Hugh Hastings, State His- torian. Publislied by the State of New York, 1898. Cornelius Vanderbilt, by James Parton (Famous Americans of Recent Times), 1867. George Washington, by John Marshall (compiled under the in- spection of Bushrod Washington from original papers be- queathed to the latter by his deceased relative), 1832, 2 vols.; by Washington Irving, 1855, 5 vols. ; by Paul Leicester Ford, 1890; by Worthington Chauncey Ford, 1900, 2 vols. Marinus Willett, a Narrative of the Military Actions of, by his son, William M. Willett, 1831. Thomas Willett, First Mayor of New York, by Dr. Charles W. Parsons (Magazine of American History, vol. xvii, 233). Appletons" Cycloptedia of American Biography, edited by James Grant Wilson and John Fiske, 1887, 6 vols. Encycloptedia of Contemporary Biography of New York, 1878, 6 vols. The National Cyclopaedia of American Biography, 1898-'99, 9 vols. The following references, arranged in chronological order, dealing with the city's condition at dilfercnt periods of its devel- opment, may also prove useful: New York in 1004, llar])cr's Magazine, ix, 452; xxv, 308. New York in 1004-'(i8, Valentine's Manual, 1803, 023. New York in 1700, Valentine's Manual. 1854, 555. New York in 1737, Valentine's Manual, 1870, 900. A LANDMARK HISTORY OP NEW YORK 277 New York in 1748, Valentine's Manual, 1858, 526; 1869, 837. New York in 1750, Valentine's Manual, 1858, 527. New York in 1753, Valentine's Manvial, 1869, 755. New York in 1756, Pasko's Old New York, ii, 36. New York in 1757, Pasko's Old New York, ii, 166. New York in 1770, Historical Magazine, v, 244; xxi, 31. New York in 1772, Magazine of American History, ii, 748; xxiii, 412. New York in 1776, Valentine's Manual, 1862, 652; Historical Magazine, xiv. 305. New York in 1777-83, Valentine's Manual, 1863, 634. New York in 1783-"89, Magazine of American History, xxix, 305. New York in 1786, Historical Magazine, xii, 279. New York in 1788, Historical INlagazine, xv, 183. New York during the Inauguration of Washington, Century Magazine, xv, 850; Harpers Magazine, Ixxviii, 671. New York in 1805, Pasko's Old New York, i, 157. New York in 1806, Valentine's Manual, 1868, 828. New York in 1806-7, Valentine's Manual, 1857, 417; 1858, 606. New York in 1807, Valentine's Manual, 1859, 564. New York in 1807-8, Valentine's Manual, 1870, 847. New York in 1808-'21, Valentine's Manual, 1864, 847. New York in 1809, Magazine of American History, iii, 089. New York in 1857, Valentine's Manual, 1857, 415, 440. FICTION A History of New York from the Beginning of the World to the P]nd of the Dutch Dynasty. By Diedrich Knickerbocker (Washington Irving), 1809. First of the Knickerbockers, a Tale of 1673. Introduces Peter Stuyvesant and Governor Lovelace. By P. H. Myer, 1848. Anneke, a Story of New Amsterdam, by Elizabeth W.Champney. Patroon Van Volkenberg, a Tale of Old Manhattan in the Year 1686. By Henry Thew Stephen, 1900. In Leisler's Times, an Historical Story of Knickerbocker New York (1690). By E. S. Brooks, 1886. The Begum's Daughter. Leisler's time. Introduces Leisler, Bayard, Philipse, and Van Courtlandt. By Edwin Lassetter Bynner, 1890. Old New York, or Democracy in 1689, a Tragedy in Five Acts. 278 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Introduces Leisler, Milburn, Slaughter, Sehuj'ler, Livingston, and otlier prominent men of tlie day. By Mrs. E. Oakes Smith, 1853. Beyond tlie City Gates. Time, 1700. Introduces Lord Bello- mont, and deals with the buccaneer period. By Augusta Campbell Watson, 1897. The Water Witch, a story of the methods employed to smug- gle goods into New York in Cornbury's time (1702-"08), showing the latter's corrupt methods. By J. Fenimore Cooper, 1874. Free to Serve. Life and Fashions of Old New York. Introduc- ing Governor Cornbury (1702-08), who had a curious habit of dressing in women's clothes. By E. Rayner, 1897. In Old New York. Time of Governor Cosby (1732-36) and Zenger. By Wilson Barrett and Elwyn Barron, 1900. The Dutchman's Fireside. Time of the French and Indian War. By James K. Paulding, 1808. A Soldier of Manhattan. Time of the French and Indian War. Introduces the Earl of Loudon, General Abercrombie, and General Wolfe. Depicts New York fashions. By Joseph A. Altsheler, 1897. Satanstoe, a picture of social customs and a description of prominent places of New York in the year 1750. By J. Fenimore Cooper. Chainbearer. This work is in a certain sense a sequel to Satans- toe. It deals with the Antirent Agitation. By J. Fenimore Cooper, 1859. A Bow of Orange Ribbon. New York during the Stamp Act Troubles, introducing patriot Marinus Willett. By Amelia E. Barr, 1886. Philip Winwood, a Sketch of the Domestic History of an Amer- ican Captain in the War of Independence, Embracing Events that occurred between and during the Years 1763 and 1786 in New York and London. By Robert Neilson Stephens, 1900. For King or Country, a Story of the American Revolution. Scene, New York in 1775. l^escribes the Sugarhouse Prison and introduces Washington and Howe. By James Barnes, ] 896. Three Colonial Boys, a Story of the Times of 1776. By Everett T. Tomlinson, 1895. In the Hands of the Redcoats, a Story of the Jersey Prison- ship, by Everett T. Tondinson, 1900. Wolfert's Roost, a story of Revolutionary times, dealing with A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK 279 the debatable or neutral ground that lay between the Brit- ish, who held New York, and the Americans in the High- lands, and was harried by friend and foe alike. By Wash- ington Irving, 1805. The Spy, a story of the neutral territory. Time, 1780. By J. Fenimore Cooper. The Fortune of War. A graphic picture of New York during the Revolution, describing persons and events connected with the period when the city was in the i^ossession of the British. By Elizabeth N. IJarrow, 1900. A Colonial Free Lance. Time, 1778. Introduces Sir Henry Clinton. By Chauncey C. Hotchkiss, 1897. The Continental Dragoon, a Romance of the Philipse Manor House in 1778, describing experiences in the Neutral Terri- tory. By Robert Neilson Stephens, 1898. The Maid of JNIaiden Lane, a Sequel to the Bow of Orange Rib- bon. Time, directly after the Revolution. Introduces Wash- ington and Lady Washington. By Amelia E. Barr, 1900. Trinity Bells. Time, 1798. A Story of Algerian Piracy and Ransom. By Amelia E. Barr, 1899. Story of a New Y'ork House. Time, 1807. Reference to the building of the present City Hall. By H. C. Bunner, 1887. A Romance of Old New York. Introduces Aaron Burr. By Edgar Fawcett, 1897. A Little Colonial Dame. By Mrs. A. C. Sage. A Little Girl in Old New York. Time, 1843. By Amanda Douglas, 1890. The Battle of New Y'ork. Draft Riots of 1803. By W. O. Stoddard, 1892. An Original Belle. Draft Riots of I8C3. By E. P. Roe, 1885. A New York Family. Tweed ring exposure. By Edgar Faw- cett, 1891. The Honorable Peter Stirling. Modern political life. By Paul Leicester Ford, 1897. INDEX Abingdon Square, 213. Andros, Sir Edmund, 48. Apthorpe House, 113. Astor, John Jacob, 169. Audubon, John J., 129. Battery Park, 13 ; Battery, 57. Beekinan House, 113. Bellomont, Lord, 60, 62. Bennett, James Gordon, 193. Blockhouses, 178, 180, 183. Board of Education, new hall of, 175. Boston, punishment of, 92. Bowling C4reen, 1, 13 ; view of, in 1830, 234. Bradford, William, 56 ; tablets, 76, 77 ; tombstone, 229. Broad Street, view of, 20. Broadway, 8 ; view of, 1831, 188. Brooklyn Bridge, 206. Burr, Aaron, 111, 158, 160. Cable, laying of, 197. Cabot, 11. Canada, capture of, 70. Canal-boat village, 74, 185. Canal, Erie, 182. Castle Garden, 235. Central Park, laying out of, 197. Chamber of Commerce, 246. Chelsea Square, 211. Christmas, 40. Churches, early, 56, 101. Cincinnati, Society of the, 163. City Plall, first, 16, 17 ; second, 58 ; present, 175, 253, 254. Clinton, De Witt, 172 ; statue of, 233. Collect Pond, 36, 164, 219. Columbia University, tablet, 120; view of library, 122 ; inscription, 123. Columbus Column, 250. Common, 82, 88, 89, 253. Constitutional Convention, 146. Constitution, centennial aimiver- sary of the adoption of, 246. Continental Congress, 103. Cooper, Peter, 172, 197, 198. Cooper Union, view of, 171. Cornbury, 69. Cosby, William, 67. Croton Aqueduct, 190. Crystal Palace, 196. Cunningham, 118, 135, 136. Dana, Charles A., 194, 195. Daughters of the American Kevo- lution, 88. Declaration of Independence, tab- let ; 97, 98, 104. Defenses, 1776, 104, 105 ; 1812, 176. Defenses, McGowan's Pass, 113. 281 282 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK De Peyster, Abraham, statue of, 78. Discovery of America, four liun- dredtli anniversary of, 247. Dongan charter, 48. Dongan, Thomas, 48. Dutch: amusements, holidays, 40, 41 ; characteristics of, 5 ; flag, 12 ; ways, 20. East India Company, 4. East Kiver, 10. English governors, character of, 09. English right to take New Amster- dam, 42. Epidemics, 186. Ericsson, Captain, 239. Erie Canal, 182. Evacuation by the British, 140 ; cen- tennial anniversary, 244. Exchange Court, statues : Hudson, Stuyvesant, 21 ; Wolfe, Clinton, 233. Federalists, 146. Field, Cyrus W., 197. Fire Department, 205, 207. Fires: 1776, 117; 1778, 117; 1835, 189 ; tablet, 190. Fletcher, Benjamin, 52. Flour bolting, 47. Forts: Amsterdam, 11, 12, 79; George, 70, 141 ; Clinton, 177- 179, 181 ; Fish, 177, 179 ; Laiglit, 182; Tryon, 135; Washington, 133,134. Fraunces's Tavern, 143, 144 ; view of, 240 ; tablet, 241. French and Indian War, 69. Freneau, Philip, 137. Fulton, Robert, 163. Gas, introduction of, 1S7. George III, 71, 89-91, 98, 99, 102. Golden Hill, battle of, 85 ; tablet, 87. Gomez, Stephen, 4. Gramercy Park, 217 ; tablet, 218. Grant's Tomb, 201. Greater New York, 208, 209. Greeley, Horace, 192, 252. Green, Andrew H., 208. Greenwich village, 6, 187, 213. Hale, Nathan, 117 : statue of, 119. Hall of Records, 89, 252. Hamilton, Alexander, 89, 96, 107, 111, 146, 100-162, 227. Hamilton, Andrew, 68. Hamilton Grange, 124 ; view of, 126 ; trees, 127. Harlem, 44. Harlem Heights, battle of, 114; view of battle ground, 116 ; tab- let, 120. Hearts of Oak, 95. Herald, the New York, 193. Holland Society, 9. Howe, General, 104. Hudson, Hein-y, 3 ; statue of, 21. Hudson Park, view of, 216. Indians, 5, 0, 32, 38, 52. Ingoldsby, Richard, 50. Inscriptions : Library, Columbia University, 123 ; Hamilton's tomb, 229 ; Pitt's statue, 90 ; Revolu- tionary prisoners, Trinity church- yard, 230 ; Washington's inaugu- ration, 242; statue of Washing- ton, Riverside, 245. Irving, Washington, 249. James II, 49. Jay, John, 102, 146, 147. Jeannette Park, 75. Jersey prison ship, 137, 138. INDEX 283 Jewish burial grounds, old, 39, 218. Jumel Mansion, 130 ; tablet, 133. Kidd, Captain William, 61. Kieft, William, 23. King George, statue of, 89 ; tablet, 98 ; destruetion of statue, 89. King's College, 71. Kingsley, William C, 200. Kip's Bay skirmish, 110. Knowlton, Colonel Thomas, 114 ; tablets, 120, 128. Knox, General, 106. Lee, Charles, 106. Leisler, Jacob, 50 ; execution of, 51. Leitch, Andrew, 114 ; tablets, 120, 128. Lexington, battle of, news received in New York, 92. Liberty Boy.s, 92, 96. Liberty of the press, 67. Liberty-pole troubles, 84 ; tablet, 88. Livingston, Robert R., 97, 152, 165, 223. Long Island, battle of, 107. Lovelace, Francis, 44. MeGowan, Andrew, patriotic act of, 112. McGowan's Pass, 112, 140, 177. Mall, the, 72. Manetta Creek, 6. Manhattan Island, discovery of, 4 ; origin of name, 5 ; shape of, 7 ; sale of, 12. Maps: 1642,35; 1664,43; 1695,53; 1728, 66 ; 1814, 177. Milestones, 30, 31, 128. Minuit, Peter, 11, 12, 22. Montcalm, 69. Montgomery, General, 223, 224. Moore, Clement C, 212. Morse, S. F. B., 195 ; tablet, 196. Mount St. Vincent, 113. Negro plots, 64. New Amsterdam, captured by the English, 27 ; first view of, 27 ; description of, 38. New-Englauders, 18. New jail, 136. Newspajjers, cheap, 192. Newspapers, early, 65 ; tablet, 76. New Year's day, 40, 153. New York adopts Constitution, 148. New York Directory, first, 158. New York during the civil war, 198. New York Historical Society, 76. New York, name changed to, 44. New York, name suggests York, England, 49. New York, in 1642, 35 ; in 1667, 45; captured by the Dutch, 46 ; in 1750-'60, 71, 72 ; in 1790, 156 ; in Warof 1812, 176. New York Society Library, 139. Nicolls, Captain, 26, 44. Night watch, 57. Non-importation agreement, 81 ; tablet, 82. North River, 10. Old mansion. State Street, view of, 236. Osborne, 69. Paas, 41. Paine, Thomas, 97. Parade to aid adoption of the Con- stitution, 147. Parks, 219. Patroons, 22. Pirates, 59. Pitt, William, 89 ; inscription, 90, 102. 284 A LANDMARK HISTORY OF NEW YORK Point of Rocks, 124 ; view of, 125. Population, 1G95, 52; character of, 1765, 80. Postal service begun, 44. Postman, the first, 29. Post office, old, tablet, 100; 101. Printing, 56 ; tablets, 76, 77. Prisoners, 135, 230, 231. Pi-isou ships, 137. Prison-ship martyrs, burial of, 156. Protestant Theological Seminary 211 ; view of, 213. Public-school system, 173. Putnam, General, 106, 111. Eailroad, New York to San Fran- cisco, 198. Raymond, Henry J., 194. Religious persecution, 64. Revolution, end of the, 140. Richmond Hill, 107, 113, 214. Riots, 202-205. St. John's Church, 220. St. Mark's Church, 27. St. Nicholas day, 41. St. Paul's inauguration ceremonies, 152 ; view of, 188, 221. Schools, 17 ; view of old school, 173; view of modern school, 174. Seal, 47. Seventh Regiment, departure of, 199 ; tablet, 200. Slavery, 63. Sloughter, Henry, 50. Smuggling, 62. Sons of Liberty, 78 ; tablets, 87, 88, 91. Sons of the Revolution, 87. Stamp Act, 73, 80, 84. Statue of George III, destruction of, 98 ; view of, 99. Statue of Liberty, 237, 238. Statue of Pitt, mutilated, 98. Steaml)oat, first, 165 ; view of, 166. Street Commission, 1807, 176. Street lighting, 57. Stuy vesant, Peter, town house, 15 ; character, 16 ; last director-gen- eral, 23 ; portrait, 24 ; country house, 26 ; tomb, 27 ; inscription on tomb, 29 ; pear tree, 31, 33. Sugar-house prison, 136, 251. Sullivan, General, 106. Sun, The New York, 51, 193. Tablets : Dutch Period. — First City Hall, 16 ; first habitations, 9 ; Fort Amsterdam, 11 ; Stuy vesant pear tree, 32 ; Stuyvesant's tomb, 29. Early English Period. — First newspaper, 76 ; first printing- press, 77. Pre- Revolutionary Period.^ Golden Hill, battle of, 87 ; Lib- erty-pole conflicts, 88 ; non-im- portation agreement, 82 ; Willctt's patriotic act, 93. Revolutionary Period. — Dec- laration of Independence, reading of, 97 ; Fraunces's tavern. 241 ; Harlem Heights, battle of, 120 ; Jumel Mansion (Washington's headquarters), 133 ; Kennedy House (reference to destruction of King George's statue), 98 ; Knowlton and Leitch, 128 ; meet- ing of Washington and Putnam, 112 ; Middle Dutch Church (used as a Revolutionary prison), 100 ; Revolutionary soldiers and sail- ors (Dutch Collegiate Church), 231 ; Washington's arrival in New York on his way to Boston to take command of the army, 103. INDEX 285 Independence, Early Period. — Washington's first residence, 251. Modern Period. — Ericsson statue, 239; fire, 1835, 190; grad- uates of College of the City of New York lost in the civil war 202 ; Gramercy Park, 218 ; Hudson Park, 217 ; Morse, 196 ; Seventh Eegimeut, site of organization, 200 ; underground railway, 256 ; Washington, centennial anniver- sary of death of, 222 ; Washington, centennial anniversary of inaugu- ration of, 221. Tammany Society, 154. Tea Party, New York, 90. Telegraph, invention of the, 195. Theater in Nassau Street, 72. Times, The New York, 194. Tribune, The New York, 194. Trinity, 8, 56, 72, 225, 226, 228. Trinity Cemetery, One Hundred and Fifty-third Street, 128. Tryon, William, 103. Van Cortlandt family, 19. Vanderbilt, Cornelius, 167. Van Kensselaer, Killian, 23. Van Twiller, Wouter, 23. Verrazano, John, 4. Wall and water gate, illustrated, 18. Wall Street in 1789, 151. Wampum, 38. Washington Arch, 248. Washington, Declaration of Inde- pendence read in presence of, 97 ; arrival in New York, 103 ; head- quarters, Eichmond Hill, 107 ; at Kip's Bay, 110 ; meets Putnam, 111 ; battle of Harlem Heights, 120 ; headquarters in Jumel Man- sion, 133 ; farewell to his officers, Fraunces's Tavern, 144 ; chosen I'resident, 148 ; arrival in New York, 148 ; house in Cherry Street, 149 ; inauguration, 150 ; grand reception, 154 ; moves to 39 Broadway, 154 ; birthday, 154 ; first President of Society of the Cincinnati, 163; farewell to his officers, 241 ; centennial anniver- sai-y of inauguration of, 221 ; cen- tennial anniversary of death of, 222 ; statues of, 243, 245 ; view of Cherry Street residence, 251. Willett, Marinus, tablet, 93 ; patri- otic act, 94. William and Mary, 50. Wolfe, 70 ; statue of, 233. Zenger, John Peter, 65. (1) THE END APPLETONS' HOME-READING BOOKS. Edited by W. T. HARRIS, A. M., LL D., U. S. Commissioner of Education. 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