afcjgiM Making the Grounds SB PS Crace Tabor Class _c3Sjfc2iD Book ' / O Copyright^ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. MAKING THE GROUNDS ATTRACTIVE WITH SHRUBBERY THE HOUSE & GARDEN MAKING BOOKS IT is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little volumes, of which Making the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery is one, a complete library of authoritative and well illus- trated handbooks dealing with the activities of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures, and diagrams will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the titles already issued or planned for early publication are the following: Making a Bose Garden; Making a Lawn; Making a Garden to Bloom This Tear; Making a Fireplace; Making Paths and Drive- ways; Making a Poultry House; Making a Gar- den with Hotbed and Coldframe; Making Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and Seats; Making a Rock Garden; Making a Water Garden; Making a Perennial Border; Making a Tennis Court; Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden; with others to be announced later. Making the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery By GRACE TABOR AUTHOR OF THE GARDEN PRIMER. THE LANDSCAPE GARDENING BOOK, ETC. NEW YORK McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 1912 Copyright, 1912, by McBRIDE, NAST & CO. b V Published April, 1912 ^ £ g-C!.A3l4272 CONTENTS PAGE What is Shrubbery For? . . 1 The Various Kinds op Shrubbery Groups 8 Selecting and Grouping . . .16 Planting and General Care . . 24 Twenty Shrubs for General Effect 33 Ten Shrubs Furnishing All- Summer Bloom .... 35 Planting for Winter Beauty . 37 Comparative Lists of Shrubs: Blooming in March and April Blooming in May Blooming in June Blooming in July Blooming in August . Blooming in September Evergreen Shrubs 39 41 44 48 50 51 52 THE ILLUSTRATIONS An Example of how Shrubbery Should Blend into an Easy, Flow- ing Line in Plan and Elevation Frontispiece PAGE Bed Planting of Flowering Shrubs as Distinguished from Shrubbery 12 A Planting of Many Varieties in a Compact Mass . . . .18 Deutzia gracilis as a Specimen . 26 Our Common Elder . . . .32 A Specimen of Hydrangea panicu- LATA 38 A Neglected Lilac . . . .44 i/ A Planting of Small Evergreens Along the Edge of a Drive . 50 Making the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery WHAT IS SHRUBBERY FOR? PERHAPS we do not always realize that shrubbery has a purpose in every landscape scheme quite apart from the constant purpose of providing orna- ment, but it is true that it has. Indeed, it has more than one — or, perhaps, it is better to say that it has a threefold pur- pose. We plant shrubs (1) to mark boundaries, (2) to afford screens when there is something to be hidden, and (8) as a means of transition to heavier growth, in addition to planting them just for themselves — just so that we may enjoy their bloom and greenness, and whatever attributes they may possess. But as screens and " transitions " are only an- other form of boundaries, the four reasons for shrubbery groups resolve themselves 2 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery into actually two — the provision of bloom, and the marking of boundaries. This purpose of a group is the first thing to consider. Next to this — almost a part of it, indeed — is the " face " of the group. This is determined by the point or points from which it is to be seen, and some groups must, of course, be two-faced. Then come the seasonal divisions of the year, which may or may not have an im- portant bearing on the problem, according to the circumstances of the home and the habits of the occupant. Thus there are three factors entering into the formation of every group. The purpose is predetermined, in a way, automatically. A group is needed here for a screen, there to define the limits of a lawn, somewhere else just because from a certain point it will be pleasing to look out upon a mass of flowers ; thus the loca- tion decides its purpose, of course. And equalW of course it decides which direc- tion or directions the group must face. In the case of boundaries or screens which are to be seen from both sides, there must be two faces — which means that the tall- What is Shrubbery For? 3 growing specimens must occupy the middle ground rather than a " back " ground ; and that from these the planting must lead down in either direction. Please do not understand from this about the plant- ing leading down, however, that I am aim- e 02 O' 0« D2 04 v. _Q2 f Oa T3T —o 04 y O? !.. ^Jr 04 ^/, 1 Forsythia Fortunei 2 Azalea calendulacce 3 Spircea Van Houttei 4 Diervillafloribunda 5 Clethra alnifolia 6 Hibiscus Syriacus A screen or border of six varieties, planned to be seen from both sides ing at a graded bank of shrubbery, ex- tending from high at back to low in front, in an even slope. This would be dreadful. Only in a general way should a group be graded ; naturally the taller things should be back of low ones, for if they were in front of them there would be small chance 4 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery for them. But the " grade " should be in- terrupted frequently by allowing some of the tall shrubs to come into the fore- ground, shoulder to shoulder with the low Study Nature's growth and the ones. boundaries along old fences and roadsides k I ° o ° c c ° />—* oo o ° o f V-o--^' V-°' Improperly worked, from front to back. Note the hard fore line and equal distance between foremost shrubs oo o0 o o © ° °' ° o o o v o o o-- o o *< .--** ^*' \ / /J Properly worked, from back edge forward. The shrubs along the fore line are placed with a natural effect I should not think of saying a word against running a walk along the curves in front of a boundary planting if I had not known some one who did just this thing. It is a dreadful piece of work, and I am sure not many could think of anything Various Kinds of Shrubbery Groups 1 1 quite so absurd, but " what man has done, man may do," so I feel bound to mention it. If a walk around a lawn or along a shrubbery boundary or screen is desired for any reason, have it by all means. But let it run in a broad curve, here behind, and there before, the shrubs ; never at- tempt to follow the ins and outs of the fore line of the planting with it. This walk that I speak of actually does this, and when its owner takes the air and saunters along it, the observer, who was not informed, would suppose him to be some sort of madman, engaged in the Tan- talus task of trying to get behind himself. It makes me quite giddy to watch him, so I do not; I have seen enough, however, to know that he sticks to the silly little path, with its ridiculous twistings and turnings, faithfully; and some day I expect to hear of his getting so tangled up with himself that he will never know again which is his substance and which is his shadow. The matter of the fore line of shrub- bery is one which it seems difficult for peo- ple to let alone. Most gardeners — the professional kind, I mean — will insist upon 12 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery trimming the turf off sharply at an even distance from the foremost shrubs, all the way along, thus giving an effect very much like a flower border or bed — a trim, neat, and orderly preciseness which is about as far from being associated with shrubbery naturally as anything can be. Plant the shrubbery group, sow grass seed on the lawn if necessary, and among the shrubs if there is plenty — certainly away into the group on every side — and then let it all alone. As they grow they will kill off the grass that is too close, and gradually there will come to be a natural thinning of grass under their outer branches that will lead into bare earth further on, under their densest shade. This is exactly what should be, and it can do itself a hun- dred per cent, better than any one can do it. In the treatment of a screen plantation it is sometimes necessary to have one side — usually the rear — very straight, even sheared. The use of a shrub that stands shearing well, along that side, is the ob- vious requirement. Nothing is better in such a position than the California privet, Various Kinds of Shrubbery Groups 13 and nothing that can be used for a screen, by the way, is more rapid-growing. Shrubbery planting within the angle f? SSL A •0 *? ^ v^ o v 5. W •9 z2 ■tea? * eJ 1 Forsythia Fortunei 2 Azalea calendulacce 3 Azalea Vaseyi 4 Spirwa Van Houttei 5 Diervilla floribunda 6 Azalea arborescens 7 Clethra alnifolia 8 Tamarix Oallica Indica 9 Hibiscus Syriacus 10 Caryopteris mastacanthus Either side of this group may be extended by "re- peating the pattern " from different points. This avoids actual repetition. Take a-b-c for the first, then b-c for the next, then take a-b for the next section; then repeat the whole, then b-c, and so on, ad lib. where boundaries come together at a cor- ner should usually be started at the cor- ner and worked both ways, as well as for- ward to the fore line. It blends into and 14 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery becomes a straight border, of course, be- fore going very far either way. Walks and driveways afford, perhaps, the greatest variation upon a single motif, 1 Forsythia Fortunei 3 Deutzia Lemoinei 2 tipircea arguta 4 Berberis vulgaris 5 Diervilla Jloribunda Planting at an entrance walk or drive, designed with the idea that the groups are to be seen principally from the same. Notice how the group of a single variety blends into the other groups rather than being set distinctly apart and every place offers conditions pecul- iarly its own in connection with these. Sometimes it is desirable to hide them completely for a space, or even for all their Various Kinds of Shrubbery Groups 15 way, in which case a shrubbery mass may be needed on either side, giving the effect of an extensive thicket wherein road or walk is unsuspected. Generally speaking, the " bays " of walks or drives should be planted, but on drives such planting should usually be kept low enough to see over, for some distance at least, else it be- comes a source of danger. The outer side of such curves require groups of different form, if they are planted at all, and these too must be governed by the circumstance of each individual case. The lay of the land and the plan of the place as a whole enter into the matter of planting along the paths and roadways rather more than they do into any other planting. Where shrubbery is used as a means of transition to heavier growth, it must ordinarily be of rather wild and informal character. The native cornels, vibur- nums, sumachs, and elder are unexcelled for this purpose, leading, as they will, back into the shade of heavy growth, and be- coming undergrowth. SELECTING AND GROUPING WHATEVER a group of shrubs may be for, the individual shrubs com- posing it must be selected with regard to certain fixed requirements. These are: their height, their habit, the time and color of their bloom, and the color of their fruits, if they bear ornamental fruits. The varying shades of green that the foliage of different kinds shows do not require special consideration, for they will blend and harmonize without question. But be sure that you stick to the shrubs which have green foliage — foliage that is a good normal, natural color. Variegations are abominations, without beauty or any other merit to recommend them — decadents, un- fit for the associations of the garden. Shrubs range in height from the dwarf Daphne, or the still more dwarf Hyperi- cum, to the twenty or twenty-five-foot Amelanchier. Their habit — that is, their manner of growth — varies almost as much 16 Selecting and Grouping 17 as the habit of men ; and although we de- scribe them ordinarily as erect, drooping, or prostrate, there are many degrees in each of these general characterizations, which we grow to know only by growing familiar with the shrubs. The Comparative List given includes the best shrubs of common culture ; a selection from this of twenty varieties will provide the choicest abundance of flowers in sum- mer and berries in winter ; half that many, or even a half dozen shrubs, will insure bloom all the season. So not even the tini- est dooryard need lack. The temptation to have more varieties, however, than good taste and good judgment in gardening will allow, is so constant that it must be con- stantly met with the warning, " few kinds — many of each; not many kinds — a few of each." In a plantation requiring fifty shrubs it is far better to have only six varieties than to have sixteen — though, perhaps, we may stretch the six out to eight or nine, in order to include the very finest, and to cover the entire period of six months. Keep to the six for the masses, however, perhaps adding some- 1 8 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery thing here and there — one or two against the mass or detached from it a little — of a species that is especially valuable and distinctive. The massing of shrubs seems a stum- bling-block to nine out of ten, in spite of the often reiterated direction to plant close in the group. Doubtless we shall be a full generation in getting away from the idea that each shrub must be treated as an in- dividual — just as we have been in getting away from some other of our false tradi- tions — and that it is beautiful only when so treated. I suppose it does seems an extravagance at first, where it has not been customary — this idea of taking per- fectly good bushes and setting them in colonies where no one can tell how many there are; where each must be imposed upon by its neighbor to a certain degree, and where none can spread itself in the undisputed possession of undivided atten- tion. What a waste of material ! That is the protest which involuntarily rises within us — not the protest of thrift alone, but a protest which comes from what some have been unkind enough to call a national Selecting and Grouping 19 characteristic, namely the instinct to " put up a front." It seems perfectly right to have a great many shrubs — we expect everything in lavish quantities — but it does not seem as if it were getting the most out of them to use them in such a fashion. Less than the most out of each one of them seems foolish — seems prodigality hid- den under a bushel. But shrubs must never be considered as individuals, from the point of view which the designer of a garden should take. They, collectively, are one kind of garden material, just as trees are one kind and flowers another ; and they can never be re- garded in any other way, once their pur- pose is thoroughly understood. That once in a while a specimen is permissible, and even desirable, is true, but this is the exception and not the rule. From two to four feet apart is as far as they should ever go, in the main body of a mass. Some parts of the fore line it is sometimes well to make more open, showing a " dwindling off," as it were, in places — but these must not be too fre- quent. The effect aimed at in a mass is 20 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery of one great thicket of interlacing boughs, strewn with blossoms here and there, vary- ing in height, and green, and character of foliage, but uninterrupted and impene- trable. And if it were possible to get un- derneath the branches, and in onto the ground about the bushes, it would seem like a miniature forest, with overarching green above and a mulch of old leaves un- derfoot, lying on the bare earth. For no grass or weeds can grow underneath shrub- bery, when it is properly massed. For best results it is not well to plant with shrubs that are very large ; these will not " mass " satisfactorily. A certain amount of every kind of garden work has to be left to the growth of the things them- selves — man can plan, but Nature must do — and this is particularly true of every- thing based on Nature's own plan or scheme, as this use of shrubs is. Small specimens, about one-third to one-half grown, planted at the proper distances, grow together as they grow large, and mass themselves. Branches interarch and mingle as they reach out at their ends, and the whole group takes on the natural Selecting and Grouping 21 thicket effect which it would never acquire if started with large shrubs whose forms were well established, and which could not, therefore, intermingle one with another. Such plants, set as close as a group should be, would crowd; and none would do as well after planting as it should. The small plants, grown up together, never are con- scious of being crowded; and the upward tendency of leaf and branch, towards the light and air, develops each to fill just the place that it should fill, among the others. A start with small shrubs sometimes seems a sore trial to one's patience; but shrubbery grows very fast, after all, and a planting set one spring will make a very creditable showing the second summer fol- lowing, while in three years it will have quite developed the desired effect. Subse- quently it will grow larger and become more dense, of course; but the mass will have taken on its definite character in this time. The color of the flowers which are pro- duced at the same season is, of course, im- portant, and must be considered in making up a group. But among shrubbery there 22 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery is much white, and there will always be large masses of the green of those shrubs which are not in flower. So color com- binations that are unsatisfactory are not likely to occur, with ordinary care. Where the culture of some special things, like rhododendrons or azaleas, is under- taken, this does not, of course, hold good ; but for all ordinary shrubbery groups and borders, it does. The groups of a single kind within the larger mass are too frequently stopped against the group adjoining, instead of each being carried naturally into the other. This latter fashion of ending them abruptly is as hard and artificial as the effect resulting from working back from the fore line in planting, mentioned earlier ; yet there is at least one great park where it is the rule followed. Keep in mind that shrubs are exactly like everything else that grows ; they scatter. A clump of elder- berry may end, practically, at a mass of sumachs — but there will be two or three of the latter amongst the former, and from one to several of the elderberry bushes over in the sumach reservation, Selecting and Grouping 23 spotted about — the most of them nearest the mass of their own kind, perhaps, but a few well along in the sumach's midst. Plant always for this effect. Golf balls and marbles, mixed and flung along the ground from a basket, may help in securing it; the spot where each lies being taken as the location of the shrub that it has been determined each should represent. This is simply an adaptation of the scheme advised for naturalizing bulbs, and though it may not be effective always on the first attempt, owing to there being only a few of each kind of ball, re- peated trials will bring the right " lay " very shortly — and it does away with the chance or danger of a stiff and labored transition between the two kinds of shrub. Each is to be planted, of course, where the ball representing its kind rests. If the balls lie too near, try again — or keep the relative positions, but move them farther from each other. PLANTING AND GENERAL CARE WHETHER spring or fall is the bet- ter planting-time is a question that each spring or fall, not to say every local- ity and each shrub, must answer. Theo- retically, fall should be the better time; but actually spring is quite as well, some- times. It depends on the kind of spring and the kind of plant. Some things will not do well at all planted in the autumn, but these are few. Rhododendrons and all their family, and broad-leaved ever- greens generally, are the notable excep- tions, along with some Roses. Aside from these there is practically nothing I would not rather plant in the fall, all other things being equal ; but this is not to say that I should not plant in spring if it were more convenient, or if, for any reason, I wanted to. The great essential is to do the work well, whatever time of year it is done. The life processes of a shrub are, of course, completely suspended while it is out of the 24 Planting and General Care 25 ground; and practically suspended until every part is restored to its original con- tact with the earth. When we speak of it as becoming " established," it means that these life processes have been resumed, through the successful restoration to all its roots of this earth contact. There must be no tiny crevice here or there, where a little group of fine roots are left to hunger until they starve to death. These fine roots are the most important, and every individual one of them ought to be completely surrounded with earth, ex- actly as it was when the plant stood in its established position. Every one of these rootlets there had gone its own way out into the soil, burrowing, pushing, reaching for the precious food, crossing its fellows perhaps, but always going on past them, its independent way. Every one must go on doing this, or die. It is obviously impossible to return earth to each one of the countless minute fibers that make up a root system, how- ever ; but it is possible to do a great deal better in this respect than it may seem at first thought, and than is done usually. For 26 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery one thing, the soil should not be too moist. A dry earth is better to plant in than a wet one. Wet, or even very moist, soil cakes, and these cakes or chunks tear away the tender roots of masses, as they fall against them. Then, too, when the earth particles are confined in such chunks, they cannot sift in around and under the root fibers at all, consequently there are prac- tically none of these tiny, important lit- tle plant mouths brought in contact with the earth. Only the larger roots are touched by it, and these are not the feeders. The roots of shrubs that come packed as they must be packed in order to bear shipping, are usually very much con- stricted, just as the branches are. Wet- ting them will help restore them to their normal positions, but even when they are wet, it is necessary to pull them out care- fully and coax them into their natural shape. Then the holes for them should be dug large enough around to take them in as they came out, and deep enough to have them as far under the surface as they were originally — and no farther. Some Deutzia gracilis, one of the most attractive flowering shrubs, blooms in May and will do well in shade Planting and General Care 27 things are not harmed by deeper planting, but most things are; all of the part that has been above ground should go on being above ground, even to as little as half an inch on the stem. Ordinary shrubbery will usually do well in ordinary soil. Some things have their preferences, to be sure, but these are not so marked that the plants will suffer if they are not indulged. Very heavy, soggy soil — the sour kind that is filled with angle-worms — it is well to sweeten by the application of lime, which lightens it at the same time (unless Rhododendrons, Laurel or Azaleas are to be planted in it). Fertilizer, in the shape of well-rotted stable manure, is always in order, if one wishes to use it, and it is available; but commercial fertilizers are not usually necessary, or even desirable. Save all the autumn leaves and let them disintegrate in a compost heap ; they are Nature's own fertilizer. Dress the earth around shrubs with them every fall, and do not rake them off and " clean up " in the spring. Nothing is better for the soil than the rich humus which they furnish. 28 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery In using manure at the time of plant- ing, mix it with the earth, and fill in the bottom of the holes to a depth of six inches with the mixture. (Dig them six inches deeper than needed, in the first place.) Then cover this filling with a thin layer of earth alone, sprinkled on; onto this set the shrub. The manure will not harm the roots of everything by com- ing in direct contact with them, but it will do injury to some if it touches them, so it is well to be on the safe side. The plant gets the nourishment just the same, even when the roots do not actually touch it. And it is fatal to evergreens, burning them and doing irreparable injury if it touches their roots. Make the earth layer which covers the layer of manure under them an inch deep at least. In planting in earth that is as dry as it ought to be in order to insure the success of the work, each shrub must have from a quarter to a half a pailful of water poured gently into the hole, when the lat- ter is two-thirds filled. It may even be more nearly full than this, the object being to have merely enough of a depression to Planting and General Care 29 receive the water, which should sink into the earth slowly. This gradual percola- tion carries earth particles against the rootlets and into every remote crevice that even the most careful tamping with a round-end pole is likely to miss ; thus it more nearly than anything else restores them to their original condition. When the water has completely sunk into the ground and disappeared, fill the depression to a little more than level full. All broken or bruised roots must be cut away before a shrub is planted, and the branches should be cut back as much in proportion. That is, if one-quarter of the root system is sacrificed, one-quarter of the top should keep it company. This holds the balance between roots and top that is so essential. Evergreens are always dug and shipped with a ball of earth, carefully wrapped in burlap, around their roots. This must go into a hole exactly as deep and a trifle larger in diameter than it, and be packed tightly by filling in around it. Do not disturb it in doing this, however, nor break it apart, if it is possible to avoid doing 30 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery so. Pour water into the ring depression around it, where the filling-in is done, when this is filled three-quarters full, and let it settle. When it has done so and none at all remains in sight, put on the rest of the earth, and then sprinkle a mulch of loose earth, or earth and leaves, over the entire area of the roots, to con- serve the moisture. This applies to rhododendrons and their kind as well as to conifers, for these come with the earth ball. All shrubbery planted in the fall must be mulched carefully the first winter. After that it will not require it, for a year's growth will have established it securely. The mulch is not to keep the ground from freezing, however, but to keep it from thawing, once it has frozen — to keep the newly planted things from being loosened and "heaved" under alternate freezing and thawing. Wait until it freezes hard be- fore applying the mulch ; then apply it at once, leaves and litter, to a depth of six or eight inches over the entire area of the plants' roots, and up to the stems — but not up onto the stems. Remove it as soon Planting and General Care 31 as the frost is thoroughly out of the ground in the spring. The matter of pruning among shrubs resolves itself into simply cutting away dead wood each year — if there is any. Further than this they should never be touched, ordinarily, for the aim with groups always being the thicket or inter- laced mass, and with specimens, the shrub's natural form, it follows that trimming up of any kind is to be avoided. Keep shears away from them altogether, if you cannot be sure that they will be only used, and not abused. Once in a great while, with old and long established shrubs, it may be necessary to thin out — but this seldom has to be done. When it must be, choose the weakest and oldest inside branches, and cut them away at the ground. Remember always that taking off the ends of branches stimulates growth farther back; removing half the length of a branch only thickens up the mass ultimately by causing new branches to come from the stub left, as well as from the roots, perhaps. The only way to thin out is to go right down to the ground. 32 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery Spraying is necessary in a region in- fested with scale, for scale attacks orna- mental plants as well as fruits. Aphids are the only other insect likely to bother, and these will not colonize on everything. When they do appear, treat them with strong soapsuds, applied as hot as the hands can bear it, with a sprayer, to every part of every leaf and branch. Use it two successive days, then wait and watch, and use it again in a week's time, if any are seen. Scale must be fought in the winter prin- cipally, as it is only when vegetation is dormant that solutions strong enough to kill the adult insects may be applied. Kerosene emulsion is the great scale poi- son, and this is usually applied the first week in February. It may be used again, in weaker solution, as late as April, pro- viding buds have not opened. For all kinds of fungous diseases, Bor- deaux mixture must be used as a pre- ventive measure. Nothing will cure the plant, nor destroy the symptoms of fungous attack, once they are in evidence, for fungi get into the plant-tissues just as Planting and General Care 33 disease gets into a man. The prevalence of any kind of plant distemper in the neighborhood should be the signal for dos- ing with Bordeaux, without waiting for the trouble to manifest. When it has reached the point of doing this, it is too late. Both kerosene emulsion and Bordeaux may be purchased ready mixed, with di- rections for diluting and applying. This is probably the better way for the small gardener to get them. They are easily compounded, however, if one prefers to make them, but the formulas are so often given that I will not repeat them here. Twenty Shrubs for General Effect The berried shrubs are winter features; only those which hold berries all win- ter are mentioned. (Blooming in April) Daphne Mezereum — Three feet high ; lilac flowers. Forsythia Fortunei — Eight feet; yellow flowers. 34 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery Cercis Japonica — Twenty feet; rosy- pink flowers. (Blooming in May) Berberis Thunbergii — Four feet ; yellow (berries). Prunus triloba — Five feet high; pink flowers. Lonicera Morrowi — Six feet; white flowers. Spircea Van Houttei — Eight feet ; white. Viburnum opulus — Twelve feet ; white (berries). Syringa vulgaris — Twelve feet; white and lilac. (Blooming in June) Potentilla fruticosa — Three feet; yel- low. Philadelphus Pekinensis — Five feet ; creamy. Diervilla floribunda — Eight feet; crim- son. Planting and General Care 35 Cornus sanguinea — Twelve feet; white (berries). Crataegus Crus-galli — Twenty-five feet; white. (Blooming in July) Spircea tomentosa — Four feet; purple- pink. Hydrangea quercifolia — Six feet ; white. Amorpha fruticosa — Ten feet ; blue. (Blooming in August) Callicarpa Japonica — Four feet; pink. Hibiscus Syriacus — Twelve feet; white and pinks. (Blooming in September) Caryopteris mast acanthus — Four feet; blue. Ten Shrubs Furnishing All-Summer Bloom (April) Forsythia Fortunei — Yellow ; eight feet. 36 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery (May) Azalea calendulacce — Flame; six feet. Azalea Vaseyi — Rosy white; seven feet. Spircea Van Houttei — White ; eight feet. (June) Diervilla floribunda — Crimson ; eight feet. Azalea arborescens — Pink; eight feet. (July) Clethra alnifolia — White ; six feet. Tamarix Gallica, indica — Pink; fifteen feet. (August) Hibiscus Syriacus — White ; pink ; twelve feet. (September) Caryopteris mast acanthus — Blue; four feet. Planting and General Care 37 A Planting for Winter Beauty (Blooming in April) Andromeda floribunda — White ; four feet; evergreen. Azalea amcena — Claret; five feet; ever- green. Cornus Mas — Yellow ; twenty feet. (Blooming in May) Berberis aquifolium — Yellow; four feet ; evergreen. Berberis Thunbergii — Yellow ; four feet. Berberis vulgaris — Yellow; six feet. Leucotheo Catesbcei — White; six feet; evergreen. Lonicera fragrantissima — Cream ; eight feet ; half-evergreen. Viburnum opulus — White; twelve feet. (Blooming in June) Kalmia latifolia — Pink; eight feet; evergreen. 38 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery Cornus Amomum — White ; ten feet. Cornus sanguined — White ; twelve feet. Rhododendron — Pink, white, mauve ; eight to thirty-five feet; evergreen. (Blooming in July) Rhododendron, in certain varieties. (Blooming in August) Calluna vulgaris — Pink ; two feet ; ever- green. Also Ilex opaca — Twenty feet; red berries; evergreen. Ilex aquifolium — Twenty feet ; red ber- ries ; evergreen. Rosa Wichuraiana — Trailing ; red hips. Rosa lucida — Six feet ; red hips. There is a place, of course, for the specimen shrub standing alone, as in the case of this unusually large hydrangea COMPARATIVE LISTS OF SHRUBS Blooming in March and April (One to Four Feet High) Cydonia Maulei — Quince; orange-scar- let ; full sun ; any soil ; three feet. Daphne Mezereum — Daphne ; lilac ; flowers before leaves ; part shade or full sun ; three feet. Spircea Thunbergii — Spirea ; white ; likes moisture; good anywhere; four feet. (Four to Eight Feet High) Dirca paliistris — Leatherwood ; yellow- ish; flowers before leaves; likes moist place ; five feet. Cydonia Japonica — Japanese quince ; white and scarlets ; any soil ; full sun ; five feet. 39 40 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery Rhus aromatica — Fragrant sumach ; yellow ; dry rocky ground ; spreads ; six feet. Forsythia Fortunei — Forsythia ; yel- low ; flowers before the leaves ; any soil ; eight feet. Lonicera fragrantissima — Honeysuckle ; creamy ; a half evergreen ; eight feet. (Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) Benzoin odoriferum — Spice bush; yel- low; flowers before the leaves; sandy soil; twelve feet. Amelanchier Botryapium — Juneberry ; white ; likes a little shade ; any soil ; twenty feet. Cornus Mas — Cornelian cherry ; yellow ; any soil ; endures shade ; twenty feet. Crataegus coccinea — Scarlet thorn ; white ; likes heavy soil ; twenty feet. Cercis Japonica — Red-bud; deep pink; transplant only when very small; twenty feet. Comparative Lists of Shrubs 41 Blooming in May (One to Four Feet High) Deutzia gracilis — Deutzia; white; will do well in shade; three feet. Deutzia gracilis, rosea — Pinkish-white; will do well in shade; three feet. Deutzia Lemoinei — White; this is the most showy of the three ; three feet. Andromeda Mariana — Stagger-bush; white ; poisonous to cattle ; four feet. Azalea Pontica — Ghent azalea ; brilliant yellows ; many hybrids ; four feet. Berberis Thunbergii — Japanese bar- berry; yellow; endures shade nicely; four feet. (Four to Eight Feet High) Azalea nudiflora — Pinxter flower ; pink- ish ; likes moisture ; little shade ; five feet. Rhodotypos kerrioides — White kerria; blooms at intervals all summer ; five feet. Azalea Mollis — Chinese azalea; white, red, yellow ; five feet. 42 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery Prunus triloba — Flowering plum ; pink ; flowers just ahead of leaves; five feet. Viburnum acerifolium — Maple-leaved viburnum ; likes some shade ; white ; five feet. Ribes aureum — Missouri currant ; yel- low ; old-time shrub ; spicy fragrance ; six feet. Azalea calendulacai — Flame azalea ; flame color; six feet. Berberis vulgaris — Common barberry ; yellow ; red fruits ; six feet. Diervilla florida — Weigela; white, rose, red ; blooms late in month ; many hybrids ; six feet. Eleagnus longipes — Silver thorn; yel- low-white ; beautiful fruits ; six feet. Lonicera Morrowi — Honeysuckle; white; red berries follow; six feet. Sambucus pubens — Elder ; white ; com- bine with S. Canadensis; six feet. Spiraea arguta — Spirea; white; finest early-flowering; six feet. Exochorda grandiflora — Pearl bush ; white; foliage poor; plant in rear; six feet. Comparative Lists of Shrubs 43 Azalea Vaseyi — Southern azalea; rose white; sometimes blooms in April; seven feet. Spircea Van Houttei — Spirea hybrid; white ; finest of all ; eight feet. (Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) Spiraea prunifolia, fi. pi. — Bridal wreath ; white ; well known ; ten feet. Cornus paniculata — Cornel; white; has white fruits ; endures shade well ; ten feet. Halesia tetraptera — Silver bell tree; white; likes part shade and shelter; ten feet. Lonicera Tatarica — Honeysuckle; pink or white ; ten feet. Lonicera Xylosteum — Fly honeysuckle ; white, tinged pink ; ten feet. Philadelphus coronarius — Syringa ; creamy ; old-time fragrant shrub ; ten feet. Pyrus arbutifolia — Chokeberry; white; ten feet. Staphylea colchica — Bladder nut; yel- 44 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery lowish white; likes moisture and part shade; twelve feet. Syringa Chmensis — Chinese lilac ; lilac, white ; twelve feet. Viburnum opulus — Highbush cran- berry ; white ; scarlet fruits ; twelve feet. Crataegus Oxyacantha — English haw- thorn ; white ; many hybrids ; fifteen feet. Syringa vulgaris — Lilac ; white and lilac ; white blooms first ; fifteen feet. Tamarix Africana — Tamarix ; pink ; endures salt air, sandy soil ; fifteen feet. Viburnum dentatum — Arrow-wood; white; likes rather moist soil; fifteen feet. Xanthoceras sorbifolia — Xanthoceras ; white; blotched with red and yellow; fif- teen feet. Blooming in June (One to Four Feet High) Ceanothus Americana — New Jersey tea ; white ; dry soil, sun or shade ; on into July ; three feet. A typical example of a neglected lilac. Its vi- tality is being sapped by the rank growth of suckers from the roots Comparative Lists of Shrubs 45 Potentilla fruticosa — Shrubby cinque- foil; yellow; wet rocky place; or dry; three feet. Spiraea callosa — Spirea ; white; blooms on into July; four feet. (Four to Eight Feet High) Philadelphus Pelcinensis — Syringa; creamy; many hybrids; five feet. Spiraea salicifolia, alba — Meadow- sweet ; white ; likes rather moist places ; five feet. Azalea mscosa — Clammy azalea; rosy white ; dry or moist ground ; six feet. Calycanthus floridus — Sweet shrub ; red brown ; grown for its fragrance ; six feet. Deutzia scabra, crenata — Deutzia ; white; does well in shade; six feet. Diervilla florida, Candida — Weigela ; white; six feet. Azalea arborescens — Fragrant azalea; rosy white ; eight feet. Diervilla floribunda — Bright crimson ; all Diervillas are spreading shrubs ; eight feet. 4.6 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery Hydrangea arborescens — Hydrangea ; white ; this endures shade well ; eight feet. Syringa villosa — Lilac ; pinkish lilac ; eight feet. (Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) Spiraea argentea — Spirea ; white ; useful in natural plantings ; on into August ; ten feet. Ligustrum Ibota — Privet ; white ; blooms on into July ; ten feet. Sambucus Canadensis — Elder ; white ; blooms as fruits of S. pubeus ripen; ten feet. Spircea opulifolia — Ninebark ; white ; strong growing and broad; ten feet (known also as opulaster). Cornus paniculata — Panicled cornel ; white ; white fruits ; twelve feet. Cornus sanguinea — Red osier; white; fruits black; twelve feet. Eleagnus umbellata — Oleaster ; yellow- ish white ; twelve feet. Comparative Lists of Shrubs 47 Philadelphus Lemoinei — Syringa; cream white ; twelve feet. Syringa Josikcea — Lilac; violet; twelve feet. Colutea arborescens — Bladder senna ; yellow ; inflated seed pods ; fifteen feet. Ligustrum vulgare — Privet; white; stands any amount of neglect ; shade or sun ; fifteen feet. Photinia villosa — Photinia; white; bril- liant red fruits ; good naturalized ; fifteen feet. Rhamnus cathartica — Buckthorn; inconspicuous ; fifteen feet. Rhamnus Frangula — Buckthorn ; green- ish; fruits from July on; fifteen feet. Tamarix Gallica — Tamarix ; pinkish white ; fifteen feet. Viburnum molle — Viburnum ; white ; likes moist places ; fifteen feet. Rhamnus Carolina — Indian cherry ; greenish; endures shade nicely; twenty feet. Viburnum Lantana — Wayfaring tree ; white; dry places and limestone soil; twenty feet. 48 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery Chionanthus Virginica — Fringe tree ; white; shrubby or tree-like; twenty-five feet. Cratcegus cordata — Washington thorn; white ; twenty-five feet. Cratcegus Crus-galli — Cockspur thorn; white ; twenty-five feet. Syringa Japonica — Japanese lilac ; yel- lowish white ; blooms on into July ; twenty- five feet ; tree-like. Styrax Japonica — Storax ; white ; blooms on into July; twenty-five feet. Blooming in July (One to Four Feet High) Hypericum Moserianum — St. John's wort ; yellow ; blooms all summer ; shade ; two feet. Spiraea tomentosa — Hardhack ; purplish pink ; blooms on all summer ; four feet. Itea Virginica — Virginian willow ; white ; likes low wet places, sun or shade ; four feet. Comparative Lists of Shrubs 49 (Four to Eight Feet High) Diervilla sessilifolia — Weigela; yellow; five feet. Aesculus parviflora — Dwarf horse- chestnut ; white ; five feet. Tamarix Odessana — Tamarix ; pink ; blooms on to September ; six feet. Ligustrum Ibota, Regelianum — Privet; white ; wide branching, drooping ; six feet. Hydrangea quercifolia — Oak-leaved hydrangea ; white ; six feet. Spircea Billardii — Spirea; pink; eight feet. Lespedeza bicolor — Bush clover; purple ; eight feet. Clethra alnifolia — Sweet pepper bush; white ; does well in shade ; on into Septem- ber; six feet. (Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) Amorpha fruticosa — False indigo ; violet-blue; ten feet. 50 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery Cornus Amomum — Silky cornel; white; blue fruit; endures shade; ten feet. Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora — Great-panicled hydrangea; white; into September; ten feet. Cephalanthus occidentalis — Button bush; white; moist, swampy places; also sand ; twelve feet. Hibiscus Syriacus — Rose of Sharon; white, pinks ; into September ; twelve feet. Rhus cotinus — Smoke tree; brown pur- ple ; twelve feet. Tamarix Gallica, indica — Tamarix ; pink ; blooms on to August ; fifteen feet. Blooming in August (One to Four Feet High) Callicarpa purpurea — Beauty fruit ; pink ; lilac-purple berries ; three feet. Callicarpa Japonica — Whitish pink ; more showy than above ; four feet. Comparative Lists of Shrubs 5 1 (Above Four Feet High) Those shrubs which carry over from July, of which there are several. Blooming in September (One to Four Feet High) Caryopteris mast acanthus — Blue spirea ; blue ; springs from roots each spring ; four feet. Lespedeza Sieboldii — Bush clover; rose purple ; four feet. Lespedeza Japonica — White; four feet. (Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) Baccharis halimifolia — Groundsel; yel- lowish; dry rocky places or seashore; ten feet. Hamamelis Virginiana — Witch hazel ; yellow; likes moisture and part shade; twenty feet. 52 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery EVERGREEN SHRUBS (One to Four Feet High) Calluna vulgaris — Heather; pink; August, September; sun or shade; sandy banks ; two feet. Andromeda floribunda — Andromeda ; white ; May or earlier ; four feet. Berberis Aquifolium — Holly-leaved bar- berry ; yellow; May; part shade; four feet. (Four to Eight Feet High) Azalea amosna — Azalea; claret pink; April, May ; five feet. Leucothoe Catesbcei — Drooping An- dromeda ; April, May ; white ; part shade ; six feet. Kalmia latifolia — Laurel; pink; part shade ; soil must be free from lime ; June ; eight feet. Comparative Lists of Shrubs 53 (Eight Feet and up) Rhododendron — White, pinks, reds, in many shades ; part shade ; soil must be free from lime; June mostly; some low-grow- ing; some up to twenty-five feet. Ilex opaca — Holly ; inconspicuous flow- ers ; red berries ; dry sunny barrens ; twenty feet north; tree in the south; get staminate as well as fruiting tree. Ilex Aquifolium — English holly; alwa}^s plant staminate trees as well as pistillate or the latter will not produce fruit ; twenty feet. Buxus sernpervirens — Boxwood ; planted for foliage ; never to more than six or eight feet ordinarily ; dwarf form six inches. MAY 16 1912