/ DIAGRAMS OF NEW SKIRTS WITH DETAILED DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. PRICE, ONE DOLLAR Copyright 1915, by The S. T. Taylor Company 13 and 15 West 34th Street, New York NEW YORK: S. T. TAYLOR CO., PUBLISHERS 13-15 West 34th Street Diagram of Circular Skirt The Diagram is in our piece — and is slightly fulled at the waist over the hip. ILLUSTRATION ON OPPOSITE PAGE. FRONT CU399U1 1 MAY 24 1915 '/- X inches on D through the 9 inches on B to meet curve a. Mark straight above the 10 inches on C at IV2 inches. Make curve c from the intersection of A and C through the \y% inches to the 7V2 inches on D, as shown on diagram. LINE A is the middle front of the skirt. __Curve c is the bottom of the skirt. Line E is the middle of the back. Curve b is the waist line. Curve a is the top of the high waist line. WHEN CUTTING OUT A is placed along the selvedge at the bottom, and 5 inches from the sel- vedge at the top. Allow 1 inch seam outside of lines A, E, D, and above curve a. Allow 3 inches at the bottom for a hem. PART 2. Draw line D and straight from D line C. Mark on line C from D at 10 and 21 1/0 inches, without moving the square. Mark on line D from C at 714 and 48 inches with- out moving the rule. Above the 48 inches mark 7V2 inches. Draw line F straight above C at the 21 V2 inches and mark on it at 20, 30 and 44 inches, without moving the rule. Mark on F above the 44 inches at 21 inches. Draw line E from the 21 inches on F to the 71/2 inches on D. Mark on E below D at 191/2 inches. Center of Front. Straight above the 10 inches on C mark at 15 inches. Straight from the 20 inches on F mark at 7Vo inches. Straight from the 30 inches on F mark at 2 V*. inches. Make curve c as shown on diagram from the 7^2 inches on D to the 44 inches on F, using 15, 7Va and 2V2 inch marks as guides. Make curve d from the 44 inches on F to the 19Vi inches on E, as shown on diagram. Line D meets line D of the first part. Curves c and d form the bottom of the skirt. Line E is the middle of back. WHEN CUTTING OUT D is placed 1 inch from the selvedge. Allow 1 inch seam outside of line E. Allow 3 inches at the bottom for a hem. Line D of the first part is stitched to line D of the second part in a flat seam. The skirt is stitched in a flat seam back and front. The skirt is mounted on a belt 2 inches wide being fulled slightly at the waist line over the hips. The skirt is cut for 26 inch waist measure. When drafting for a larger waist add one-third of the difference outside of line A all the way down, and two-thirds (or the remainder) outside of line E, on both parts. When drafting for a smaller figure decrease in the same way. Diagram of Skirt in Three Pieces Tlif diagram is made in three parts— the hack and front which join the side yore under a plait. FRONT. ILLUSTRATION ON OPPOSITE PAGE. 67/ Description of Diagram. Draw line A and straight from A towards you, line B. Mark on A below B at l/ 2 , 7, and 36 1/2 inches without moving the rule. Straight from A at the 36i/> inches towards you draw line C. Mark on line C from A at 12 and 16 inches with- out moving the square. Extend line A above B lVi> inches. Mark on line B from A at 3V->, 4y 2 , 5i/o and 11 inches, without moving the square. Straight from A at the 7 inches, mark towards you at 5 and 514 inches without moving the square. Draw line D from the 11 inches on B to the 16 inches on C. Extend line D above B and mark on it at 2 and 4 inches without moving the square. Make curve b as shown on diagram from the i/> inch on A through the 4i/> inches on B to the 2 inches on D. Draw line E from the 3^ inches on B to the 5 inches inside of A, extending it 2 inches above curve b. Draw line F from the 41/2 inches on B to the 5i/> inches inside of A, extending it 2 inches above B. Draw line G from the 5 l /-> inches on B to the 12 inches on C, extending it 2 inches above curve b. Make curve a from the 1V-2 inches on A to the 4 inches on D, using the 2 inch marks on E, F and G, as shown on diagram. Mark on line G below curve b at 37 inches. Mark on line D below curve b at 37 V2 inches. Make curve c from line C through the 37 inches on G to the 37 V2 inches on D, as shown on diagram. LINE A is the middle front of the skirt. Line C and curve c is the bottom of the front. Line E of the side gore folds to meet line G of the front. Line D of the side gore joins line D of the front in a seam. Curve b is the waist line. Curve a is the top of the high waist line. Line E folds to meet line F forming a draped plait. WHEN CUTTING OUT A is placed on the fold of the material. Allow 1 inch seam above curve a and outside of line D. Allow 3 inches at the bottom for a hem. THE SIDE GORE. Draw line A and straight from A towards you line B. Mark on line B from A towards you at 5 and 11 inches, without moving the square. Extend line B towards the front. Mark on line B from A towards the front 5 and IOV2 inches without moving the square. Mark on line A below B at 371/2 inches. Extend line A above B 2 inches." Draw line C straight from A at the 37i/> inches towards you and mark on it at 12 and 15" inches, without moving the square. Extend line C towards the front and mark on it lOi/o and 14i/o inches from A, without moving the square. Draw line D from the 10i/> inches on B to the 141/2 inches on C. Center of Front. Extend line D above B and mark on it at IV2 and 31/2 inches, without moving the square. Draw line E from the 5 inches on B to the IOV2 inches on C. Extend line E above B 2 inches. Draw line F from the 5 inches on B to the 12 inches on C. Extend line F above B and mark on it at V2 an d 2V2 inches, without moving the square. Draw line G from the 11 inches on B to the 15 inches on C. Extend line G above B and mark on it at 2 1/2 and 41/2 inches, without moving the square. Make curve a from the end of D to the end of G, as shown on diagram ; using the 2 inches on E ; the 2 inches on A and 2i/> inches on F, as guides. Make curve b from the IV2 inches on D to meet line B, through the V2 inch above line B on F, to the 21/0 inches as shown on diagram. Mark on line D below curve b at 37 V2 inches. Mark on E below curve b at 37 inches. Make curve c as shown on diagram from the 371/4 inches on D through the 37 inches on E to meet line C, as shown on diagram. Mark on line F below curve b at 371/2 inches. Mark on line G below curve b at 38 1/2 inches. Make curve (/ from line C through the 371/2 inches on F to the 38 1/2 inches on G, as shown on diagram. LINE D of the side gore joins line D of the front in a seam. Line E folds to meet line G of the front, forming a plait. Line G of the side gore joins line D of the back in a seam. (Continued on page 11.) 37^ Diagram of Skirt in Four Pieces The diagram is made in four parts. The back and front are attached to a yoke which is finished with a pocket, illustration on opposite page. FRONT. J^ k Description of Diagram THE FRONT. Draw line A and straight from A towards you line B. Mark on A below B at y> and 37 i/> inches, with- out moving the rule. Extend line A above B iy> inches. Mark on B from A at 3, 5, 7, and %\/-> inches, without moving the square. Draw line C straight from A at the 37 1 /) inches, towards you. Mark on C from A at 10 14 and 12 14 inches with- out moving the square. Draw line D from the 8 y> inches on B to the 12 V2 inches on C. Extend line D above B and mark on it at !/•> inch and from the 1/2 inch, 2 inches. Mark on line D below the i/> inch at 3714 inches. Draw line E from the 5 inches on B to the IOV2 inches on C. Mark on line E below B at 7 inches. Make curve b from the i/> inch on A below B to the V2 inch above B on D, making the curve slightly below B at the 3 inches and above B at line E, as shown on diagram. Make curve c with a sweep of 16 inches from the 7 inches on E through the 3 inches on B, extending it 2 inches above curve b. Make curve d with the same sweep from the 7 inches on E, through the 7 inches on B, extending it 2 inches above curve b. Extend line E above B. Mark on line E above curve b 2 inches. Make curve a from the IV2 inches on line A to the 2 inches on line D, using the 2 inches at the end of curve c, line E and curve d, as shown on diagram. Make curve e from line C to the 37 1 /) inches on D, as shown on diagram. LINE A is the middle front of the skirt. Line C and curve e is the bottom of the front. Line A of the back joins line D of the front in a seam. Line E of the front folds to meet line J of the back. Curve b is the waist line. Curve a is the top of the high waist line. Curves c and (/ are the sewing lines of the front which are ioined to the yoke. WHEN CUTTING OUT A is placed on the fold of the material. Allow 1 inch seam above curve a outside of curves c and d and outside of line D. Allow 3 inches at the bottom for a hem. THE BACK. Draw line A and straight from A towards you line B. Mark on line B at IV2 inches. Extend line A above B, 2 inches. Mark on line A below B at 6, 71/2 and 371/2 inches without moving the rule. Draw line C straight from A at the 3714 inches towards you. Mark on line C from A at 2, 12, 271/2', 291/2, 391/2, 4OV2 and 411/2 inches, without moving'the rule. Draw line D straight from A at the 6 inches to- wards you. Mark on line D from A at IOV2, 13 and 18 inches, without moving the square; and from the 18 inches Center of Front. towards you at 3, 5, 6 and 7 inches, without moving the square. Draw line E from the 7 inches on D to the 41 y% inches on C. Extend line E above D 2 inches, and mark below the 2 inches on E at 28 inches. Draw line F from the 6 inches on D to the 40i/> inches on C. Draw line G from the 5 inches on D to the 39 1/0 inches on C. Draw line H from the 18 inches on D to the 29 V2 inches on C. Mark on H below D at 1 and 28 i/> inches without moving the rule. Draw line I from the 13 inches on D to the 271/2 inches on C. Mark on I below D at 3 inches. Straight from D at the IOI/2 inches mark towards C at 4 inches. Straight from A at the 71/2 inches mark towards you at 3 x /2 inches. Make curve b with a sweep of 16 inches from the 31/2 inches inside of A, through the IV2 inches on B to 2 inches above B. Make curve a from the 2 inches on curve b to the end of line A. Make curve c with a sweep of 8 inches from the 4 inches below D to meet curve b, as shown on dia- gram. Make curve d from the 4 inches inside of D to the 2 inches on E above D, using the 3 inches on I, 1 inch on H and the 3 inches on D, as guides, as shown on diagram. Extend lines F and G to meet curve d. Mark on curve b below line B at 7 VI inches and draw line J from the 7 1/2 inches to the 2 inches on C, as shown on diagram. 10 \0%. 7 D 5 3^ *% W&\ C 3 A 3\~B" 4 and stitched Make curve e from the 12 inches on line C through the 281/2 inches on H to the 28 inches on E, as shown on diagram. LINE G is the middle back of the skirt. Line B is the waist line. Curve a is the top of the high waist line. Line A is joined to line D of the front in a seam. Line E of the front folds to meet line J forming a plait. Line H folds to meet line I. The back is turned under at line along line G to form a tuck. Curves b, c and d are turned under and stitched to the curve of the yoke. Line C and curve e is the bottom of the skirt. WHEN CUTTING OUT A is placed along the selvedge at line C and the top (or curve a) is placed 10 inches from the selvedge. Allow 1 inch seam outside of line A, above curve a, outside of curves b, c, d, and line E. Allow 3 inches for a hem at the bottom. THE YOKE. Draw line A and straight across A line B. Mark on line A below B at 1, 3 and 13 '/2 inches, without moving the square. Draw line C straight from A at the 13 1/> inches towards you. Mark on line C from A at 4 1 /-), 9, 10 and 11 inches, without moving the square. Extend line C from you and mark on it at 5 and 9 1 ■> inches from A, without moving the square. Mark on line B from A towards you at 5, 8' 2. 9 1 2 and IOV2 inches, without moving the square. Mark on line B towards the front at 4, 8 and 9 1 9 inches, without moving the square. Draw line D from the 914 inches on B to the 9 1 L > inches on C. Mark on line D below B at 3i/ 2 > 5, 7 and 101/a inches, without moving the square. Mark from the 314 inches on D towards you at li/o inches. Mark from the IOV2 inches on D towards you at 51/2 inches. Draw line E from the IOV2 inches on B to the 11 inches on C. Mark on E below B at 1% and 31/2 inches without moving the square. Draw line F from the 914 inches on B to the 10 inches on C. Draw line G from the 8 1 /) inches on B to the 9 inches on C. Mark on G below B at IV2 and 3 1 /* inches without moving the square. Draw line H from the 5 inches on D to the 4 1 _- inches on C. Mark on H below B at 1 and 3 inches, without moving the square. Draw line I from the V/-> inches inside of D to the hy~> inches inside of D. Make curve b for the waist line from 14 inch below the 8 inches on B to the 3 1 /-.' inches on E, using the 3 inches on A, the 3 inches on H and the 3i/> inches on G, as guides, as show r n on diagram. Make curve c with a sweep of 18 inches from the 5 inches on D, through the 8 inches on B, extend- ing it 2 inches above curve b. Make curve a for the top of the high waist line from the 2 inches at the end of curve c, through the 4 inches on B to the IV2 inches on E. using the 1 inch on A, the 1 inch on H and the IV2 inches on G, as guides — as shown on diagram. Mark straight above C at the 5 inches at 1 inch. Make curve d with a sweep of 8 inches from the 1 inch inside of the 5 inches on C to the 7 inches on D, as shown on diagram. Make curve e from the 1 inch inside of C to line C as shown on diagram. LINE G is the middle back of the yoke. Line C, curves e and d, line D and curve c, is joined to the curves of the front and back. The yoke must be stitched to the front and back curve, before the plait in the back is draped and before the tuck is stitched down the center of the back. Curve b is the waist line. Curve is the top of the high waist line. Line H folds to meet line A. The yoke is turned under at line F and stitched along line G to form a tuck. The yoke is slashed along line I and the pocket flap is placed over it. WHEN CUTTING OUT A is placed on the straight grain of the material. Allow 1 inch seam outside of line E, outside of line C, curves e and d, line D, and curve c and 1 inch above curve a — the top of the high waist line. THE POCKET FLAP. Draw line A and straight from the centre of A draw line B. Mark on line B from A at 3 inches. Mark on line A from B towards you at 3 and 4 inches, without moving the square. Straight below the 3 inches mark at IV2 inches. Mark on line A from B towards the front at 3 and 4 inches, without moving the square. Mark straight below the 3 inches at IV2 inches. 11 Make curve a with a sweep of 4 inches from the 4 inches on A to the l 1 /* inches inside of the 3 inches. Make curve b from the l'/2 inches at the end of a to the 3 inches on B. Make curve c with the same sweep from the 3 inches on B to the l 1 /-* inches inside the 3 inches. Make curve d with the same sweep from the IV2 inches at the end of curve c to the 4 inches on A, as shown on diagram. LINE A is placed on line I of the yoke. The pocket flap is stitched along curves a, b, c and (/. WHEN CUTTING OUT B is placed on the straight grain of the material. Allow V2 mc h seam above line A and outside of curves a, b, c and d. The skirt is mounted on a belt 2 inches wide. The plaits in the back hang from the top of the belt. The skirt is slightly fulled on the belt between curves c and line A. The skirt is cut for a 26 inch waist measure and 41 hip, taken 8 inches below the waist line. Allow V2 inch more on the half hip size for ease around the figure. When making pattern smaller around hips, use less inches on line B. When making pattern larger around hips increase in the same way. (Continued from page 7.) Line F folds to meet line E of the back forming a plait. Curve b is the waist line. Curve a is the top of the high waist line. Curve c, line C and curve d is the bottom of the gore. WHEN CUTTING OUT A is placed on the straight grain of the material. Allow 1 inch seam outside of line D above curve ft and outside of line G. Allow 3 inches at the bottom for a hem. THE BACK. Draw line A and straight from A from vou draw line B. Mark on line B from A at 2V2 and 8 1/2 inches, without moving the square. Mark on A below B at 37 1 /-> inches. Draw line C from you straight from A at the 37 V-> inches. Mark on line C from A at 6 and 9 inches, without moving the square. Draw line D from the 8V2 inches on B to the 9 inches on C. Extend line D above B and mark on it at IV2 and 31/2 inches, without moving the square. Draw line E from the 2 l /-> inches on B to the 6 inches on C. Extend line E above B 2 inches. Extend A above B 2 inches. Make curve b from the IV2 inches on D to meet line B, as shown on diagram. Make curve « from the 3V£ inches on D through the 2 inches on E to the 2 inches at the end of A. Mark on line D below curve b at 38!/o inches. Mark on line E below curve b at 37% inches. Make curve c as shown on diagram from the 38 1/> inches on D through the 37 V2 inches on E to meet line C, as shown on diagram. LINE A is the middle back of the skirt. Curve b is the waist line. Curve a is the top of the high waist line. Line D joins line G of the side gore in a seam. Line F of the side gore meets line E of the back forming a plait. Curve c and line C is the bottom of the back. WHEN CUTTING OUT A is placed on the fold of the material. Allow 1 inch seam above curve a and outside of line D. Allow 3 inches at the bottom for a hem. The skirt is mounted on a belt 2 inches wide. It is slightly fulled on the belt between lines E and F. The skirt is cut for a 26 inch waist measure and 41 hip, taken 8 inches below the waist line. Allow l 1 /) inches more on half the hip size for ease around the figure. When making pattern smaller around hips use less inches on line B. When making pattern larger around hips, increase in the same way. TAPE MEASURES 35 Cents Each T. TAYLOR CO. BEST IN USE s. 13-15 West 34th Street NEW YORK TRACING WHEELS which we take pleasure in recommending wheels were made especially fnr us. Thej lenetrating; built of the best steel with si in 1 owino to the fineness of their construct! lozen of the ordinary wheel. They arc r joth wooden handle, n will outlast a half ally indispensable to DRESSMAKER AND TAILOR Price SO Cents S. T. TAYLOR CO., 15 West 34th St., New York SKIRT RULERS INDISPENSABLE TO CUT MODERN SKIRTS 18 INCHES LONG PRICE, $1.00 EACH S. T. TAYLOR CO., 15 W. 34th St., New York Hall-Borchert Dress Forms FOR ALL DRESSMAKERS Adjustable Forms French Fitting Full Forms Bust Forms Skirt Forms Skirt Marker A COMPLETE LINE Write for Illustrated Catalog giving full description and prices. The form pic- tured is the "Queen" No. 55 Adjustable Form. S. T. TAYLOR CO. 13-15 West 34th St., New York "I- CONCRESS 014 063 841 9 Dresscutting, Dressmaking and Designing Practically and Efficiently taught Dresscutting. Pupils arc taught how to cut waists, skirts, coats, jackets. one piece frocks, etc., with the most becoming lines and curves to lit each individual figure. All shapes are drafted from the measures taken of the figure. The tools used in our system consist of instruction book, measure book, square, and set of scales. The average pupil learns our method of cutting in from three to four weeks but is en- titled to call any time within three months for informa- tion or further instruction. Dressmaking. The pupil brings her own materials and makes, with the assistance of our teachers, any style of frock which she mav select. This includes tailor mades, afternoon, even- ing dresses, and etc. This course is both practical and highlv efficient for those who are learning dressmaking both for business and home use. Designing. Pupils are taught how to copy fashion illustrations in- cluding fancy and draped waists of all kinds; shirred, draped, tucked and plaited skirts; one piece dresses, jackets, coats, etc. Illustrations are copied in fine crino- line and paper. The object of the designing course is to make the pupil independent of patterns. CHARGE FOR COURSES. (In effect September 1, 1915.) Dresscutting, $25.00 Dressmaking, (17 Lessons) Designing, (17 Lessons) 15.00 15.00 For full particulars call on or write to S. T. TAYLOR CO., Kate von Witzleben, President 13-15 West 34th Street. Any of these - courses may be taken separately.