^oV" .0* ^-/"""V^ V '*«.-<.'* .^j."^ .0 ^>^*^.' ^f^ ,0 "^ >->V^,yr-« V-^' .s^-.^. ^ -t. .'-^ -^^0^ ^°-n^. 5> "c-o-^ o, ^> ^^>. cy G°' .-J^' ." . « * A ^ * e « o • 1^ 'oK «0 ^ "» **^,* j^' o " » -. *0 _ ^g tl)c ^ame ^rttl)or. OUT-DOOR PAPERS. I vol. i6mo. Price, $ ISO- MALBONE : AN OLDPORT ROMANCE. I vol. i6mo. Price, $1.50. ARMY LIFE IN A BLACK REGIMENT. I vol. i6mo. Price, $1.50. ATLANTIC ESSAYS. I vol. 161110. Price, $2.00. •»• For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers, JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. OLDPORT DAYS. THOMAS WENTWOETH HIGGINSON. WITH TEN HELIOTYPE ILLUSTEATI0N8, From Views taken in Newport, R. /., expressly for this work. J BOSTON: JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, Latb Ticxnor & Fields and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 1873. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year ISTS, BY JAMES R. OSGOOD * CO., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. U.Niv-ERsiTY Press: Welch, Biceudw, & Co., Cambridge. OOJ^TENTS. — • — Page Oldport in Winter 11 Oldport Wharves 35 The Haunted Window 59 A Dkift-wood Fire 88 An Artist's Creation 114 In A Wherry 142 Madam Delia's Expectations 162 Sunshine and Petrarch 198 A Shadow 216 Footpaths 241 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ♦ Old Stone Mill frontispiece. Old Houses by the Bay Page 35 Blue Rocks 39 Wreck at Brenton's Cove 88 Jewish Cemetekv 114 Hakbos 142 State House 1^^ Bathing Beach 1^8 Fort Greene 216 Cliffs, from "Forty Footsteps" .... 241 OLDPORT DAYS. Oldport Days. OLDPOET IN" WINTER.. OUR August life rushes by, in Oldport, as if we were all shot from the mouth of a can- non, and were endeavoring to exchange visiting- cards on the way. But in September, when the great hotels are closed, and the bronze dogs that guarded the portals of the Ocean House are col- lected sadly in the music pavilion, nose to nose ; when the last four-in-hand has departed, and a man may drive a solitary horse on the avenue without a pang, — then we know that " the sea- son" is over. -Winter is yet several months away, — months of the most delicious autumn weather that the American climate holds. Rut to the human bird of passage all that is not summer is winter ; and those who seek Oldport most eagerly 12 OLDPORT DAYS. for two months are often those who regard it as uninhabitable for the otlier ten. The Persian poet Saadi says that in a certain region of Armenia, wliere he travelled, people never died the natural death. But once a year they met on a certain plain, and occupied them- selves with recreation, in the midst of which indi- viduals of every rank and age would suddenly stop, make a reverence to the west, and, setting out at full speed toward that part of the desert, be seen no more. It is quite in this fashion that guests disappear from Oldport wlien the season ends. They also are apt to go toward the west, but by steamboat. It is pathetic, on occasion of each annual bereavement, to observe the wonted looks and language of despair among those wlio linger behind ; and it needs some fortitude to think of spending the winter near such a "Wharf of Sighs. But we console ourselves. Each season brings its own attractions. In summer one may relish what is new in Oldport, as the liveries, the in- comes, the mannei-s. There is often a delicious freshness about these exhibitions ; it is a pleasure OLDPORT IN WINTER. 13 to see some opulent citizen in his first kid gloves. His new-born splendor stands in sucli brilliant relief against the confirmed respectability of the " Old Stone ]\Iill," the only thing on the Atlantic shore which has had time to forget its birthday ! But in winter the Old Mill gives the tone to the society around it ; we then bethink ourselves of the crown upon our Trinity Church steeple, and resolve that the courtesies of a bygone age shall yet linger here. Is there any other place in America where gentlemen still take off their hats to one another on the public promenade ? The liat is here what it still is in Southern Europe, — the lineal successor of the sword as the mark of a gentleman. It is noticed that, in going from Oldport to New York or Boston, one is liable to be betrayed by an over-flourish of the hat, as is an Arkansas man by a display of the bowie-knife. Winter also imparts to these spacious estates a dignity that is sometimes wanting in summer. I like to stroll over them during this epoch of de- sertion, just as once, when I happened to hold the keys of a church, it seemed pleasant to sit, on a week-day, among its empty pews. The silent 14 OLDPORT DAYS. walls appeared to hold the pure essence of the prayers of a generation, ■while the routine and the ennui had vanished all away. One may here do the same with fashion as there with devotion, extractins? its finer flavors, if such there be, unalloyed by vul- garity or sin. In the winter I can fancy these fine houses tenanted by a true nobility ; all the sons are brave, and all the daughters virtuous. Tliese balconies have heard the sighs of passion without selfishness ; those cedarn alleys have admitted only vows that were never broken. If the occupant of the house be unknown, even by name, so much the better. And fi'om homes more familiar, what lovely childish faces seem still to gaze from the doorways, — what graceful Absences (to borrow a certain poet's phrase) are haunting those windows ! There is a sense of winter quiet that makes a stranger soon feel at home in Oldport, while the prospective stir of next summer precludes all feel- ing of stagnation. Commonly, in quiet places, one suffers from the knowledge that everybody would prefer to be unquiet ; but nobody has any such longing here. Doubtless there are aged persons who deplore the good old times when the Oldport OLDPORT IN WINTER. 15 mail-bags were larger than those arriving at New York. But if it were so now, what memories would there be to talk about ? If you wish for " Syrian peace, immortal leisure," — a place where no grown person ever walks rapidly along the street, and where few care enough for rain to open an umbrella or walk faster, — come here. My abode is on a broad, sunny street, with a few great elms overhead, and with large old houses and grass-banks opposite. There is so little snow that the outlook in the depth of winter is often merely that of a paler and leafless summer, and a soft, springlike sky almost always spreads above. Past the window streams an endless sunny pano- rama (for the house fronts the chief thoroughfare between country and town), — relics of summer equipages in faded grandeur ; great, fragrant hay- carts ; vast moving mounds of golden straw ; loads of crimson onions ; heaps of pale green cabbages ; piles of gray tree-prunings, looking as if the patrician trees were sending their super- fluous wealth of branches to enrich the impov- erished orchards of the Poor Farm ; wagons of sea-weed just from the beach, with bright, moist 16 OLDPORT DAYS. hues, and dripping with sea-water and sea-mem- ories, each Aveed an argosy, bearing its own wild histories. At tliis season, the very houses move, and roll slowly by, looking round for more lucra- tive quarters next season. Never have I seen real estate made so transportable as in Oldport. The purchaser, after finishing and furnishing to his fancy, puts his name on the door, and on the fence a large white placard inscribed " For sale." Then his household arrangements are complete, and he can sit down to enjoy himself. By a side-glance from our window, one may look down an ancient street, which in some early epoch of the world's freshness received the name of Spring Street. A certain lively lady, addicted to daring Scriptural interpretations, thinks that there is some mistake in the current versions of Genesis, and that it was Spring Street which was created in the beginning, and the heavens and earth at some subsequent period. There are houses in Spring Street, and there is a confec- tioner's shop; but it is not often that a sound comes across its rugged pavements, save perchance (in summer) the drone of an ancient hand-organ, OLDPORT IN WINTER. 17 such as might have been devised by Adam to con- sole his Eve when Paradise was lost. Yet of late the desecrating hammer and the ear-piercing saw have entered that haunt of ancient peace. May it be long ere any such invasion reaches those strange little wharves in the lower town, full of small, black, gambrel-roofed houses, witli projecting eaves that might almost serve for piazzas. It is possible for an nnpainted wooden building to assume, in this climate, a more time-woru aspect than that of any stone ; and on these wharves everything is so old, and yet so stunted, you might fancy that the houses had been sent down there to play during their childhood, and that nobody had ever remem- bered to fetch them back. The ancient aspect of things around us, joined with the softening influences of the Gulf Stream, imparts an air of chronic languor to the special types of society which here prevail in winter, — as, for instance, people of leisure, trades-people living on their summer's gains, and, finally, fisher- men. Those who pursue this last laborious call- ing are always lazy to the eye, for they are on shore only in lazy moments. They work by night 18 OLDPOET DAYS. or at early dawn, and by day they perhaps lie about on the rocks, or sit upon one heel beside a fish-house door. I knew a missionary who resigned his post at the Isles of Shoals because it was im- possible to keep the Sunday worshippers from ly- ing at full length on the seats. Our boatmen have the same habit, and there is a certain dreaminess about them, in whatever posture. Indeed, they remind one quite closely of the German boatman in Uhland, who carried his reveries so far as to accept three fees from one passenger. But the truth is, that in Oldport we all incline to the attitude of repose. Now and then a man comes here, from farther east, with the Xew England fever in his blood, and with a pestilent desire to do some- thing. You hear of him, presently, proposing that the Town Hall should be repainted. Opposition would require too much effort, and the thing is done. But the Gulf Stream soon takes its revenge on the intruder, and gradually repaints him also, with its own soft and mellow tints. In a few years he would no more bestir himself to fight for a change than to fight against it. It makes us smile a little, therefore, to observe OLDPORT IN WINTER. 19 that universal delusion among the summer visitors, that we spend all winter in active preparations for next season. Xot so ; we all devote it solely to meditations on the season past. I observe that nobody in Oldport ever believes in any coming summer. Perhaps the tide is turned, we think, and people will go somewhere else. You do not find us altering our houses in December, or build- ing out new piazzas even in March. We wait till the people have actually come to occupy them. The preparation for visitors is made after the visitors have arrived. This may not be the way in which things are done in what are called " smart business places." But it is our way in Oldport. It is another delusion to suppose that we are bored by this long epoch of inactivity. Not at all ; we enjoy it. If you enter a shop in winter, you will find everybody rejoiced to see you — as a friend ; but if it turns out that you have come as a customer, people will look a little disappointed. It is rather inconsiderate of you to make such demands out of season. Winter is not exactly the time for that sort of thing. It seems rather to 20 OLDPOKT DAYS. violate the conditions of the truce. Could you not postpone the affair till next July ? Every country has its customs ; I observe that in some places, New York for instance, the shopkeepers seem rather to enjoy a " field-day " when the sun and the customers are out. In Oldport, on the contrary, men's spirits droop at such times, and they go through their business sadly. They force themselves to it during the summer, perhaps, — for one must make some sacrifices, — but in win- ter it is inappropriate as strawberries and cream. The same spirit of repose pervades the streets. Nobody ever looks in a hurry, or as if an hour's delay would affect the thing in hand. The near- est approach to a mob is when some stranger, thinking himself late for the train (as if the thing were possible), is tempted to run a few steps along the sidewalk. On such an occasion I have seen doors open, and heads thrust out. But ordinarily even the physicians drive slowly, as if they wished to disguise tlieir profession, or to soothe the nerves of some patient who may be gazing from a window. Yet they are not to be censured, since Death, OLDPORT IX WINTER. 21 their antagonist, here drives slowly too. The number of the aged among us is surprising, and explains some phenomena otherwise strange. You will notice, for instance, that there are no posts before the houses in Oldport to which hoi-ses may- be tied. Fashionable visitors might infer that every horse is supposed to be attended by a groom. Yet the tradition is, that there were once as many posts here as elsewhere, but that they were re- moved to get rid of the multitude of old men who leaned all day against them. It obstructed the passing. And these aged citizens, while per- mitted to linger at their posts, were gossiping about men still older, in earthly or heavenly habi- tations, and the sensation of longevity went on accumulating indefinitely in their talk. Their very disputes had a flavor of antiquity, and in- volved the reputation of female relatives to the third or fourth generation. An old fisherman tes- tified in our Police Court, the other day, in nar- rating the progress of a street quarrel: "Then I called him ' Polly Carter,' — that 's his grand- mother ; and he called me ' Susy Picynolds,' — that 's my aunt that 's dead and gone." 22 OLDrOUT DAYS. In towns like this, from which the young men mostly migrate, the work of life devolves upon the venerable and the very young. When I first came to Oldport, it appeared to me that every in- stitution was conducted by a boy and his grand- fatlier. Tliis seemed the case, for instance, with the bank that consented to assume the slender responsibility of my deposits. It was further to be observed, that, if the elder oflicial was absent for a day, tlie boy carried on the proceedings un- aided ; while if the boy also wished to amuse him- self elsewhere, a worthy neighbor from across the way came in to fill the places of both. Seeing this, I retained my small hold upon the concern with fresh tenacity ; for who knew but some day, when the directors also had gone on a picnic, the senior depositor might take his turn at the helm ? It may savor of self-confidence, but it has always seemed to me, that, with one day's control of a bank, even in tliese degenerate times, something might be done which would quite astonish tlie stockholders. Longer acquaintance has, however, revealed the fact, that these Oldport institutions stand out as OLDPORT IN WINTER. 23 models of strict discipline beside their suhurban comi5eers. A friend of mine declares that he went lately into a country bank, near by, and found no one on duty. Being of opinion that there should always be some one behind tlie coun- ter of a bank, he went there himself "Wishing to be informed as to the resources of liis establish- ment, he explored desks and vaults, found a good deal of paper of different kinds, and some rich veins of copper, but no cashier. Going to the door again in some anxiety, he encountered a cas- ual school-boy, who kindly told him that he did not know wliere the financial officer might be at the precise moment of inquiry, but that half an liour before he was on the wharf, fishiny;. Death comes to the aged at last, however, even in Oldport. We have lately lost, for instance, that patient old postman, serenest among our hu- man antiquities, wliose deliberate tread might have imparted a tone of repose to Broadway, could any imagination have transferred him thither. Througli him the correspondence of other days came softened of all immediate solicitude. Ere it reached you, friends had died or recovered, 24 OLDPOET DAYS. debtors had repented, creditors grown Icind, or your children had paid your debts. Perils had passed, hopes were chastened, and the most eager expectant took calmly the missive from that tran- quillizing hand. JNIeeting his friends and clients with a step so slow that it did not even stop rapidly, he, like Tennyson's Mariana, slowly " From his bosom drew Old letters." But a summons came at last, not to be postponed even by him. One day he delivered his mail as usual, with no undue precipitation ; on the next, tlie blameless soul was himself taken and for- warded on some celestial route. Irreparable woidd have seemed his loss, did there not still linger among us certain types of human antiquity that might seem to disprove the fabled youth of America. One veteran I daily meet, of uncertain age, perhaps, but with at least that air of brevet antiquity which long years of unruffled indolence can give. He looks as if he had spent at least half a lifetime on the sunny slope of some beach, and the other half in leaning upon his elbows at the window of some sailor OLDPORT IN WINTER. 25 boarding-house. He is hale and broad, with a head sunk between two strong shoulders; his beard falls like snow upon his breast, longer and longer each year, \vhile his slumberous thoughts seem to move slowly enough to watch it as it groM's. I always fancy that these meditations have drifted far astern of the times, but are fol- lowing after, in patient hopelessness, as a dog swims behind a boat. What knows he of the Pres- ident's ^lessage ? He has just overtaken some remarkable catch of mackerel in the year thirty- eight. His hands lie buried fathom-deep in his pockets, as if part of his brain lay there to be rummaged ; and he sucks at his old pipe as if his head, like other venerable hulks, must be smoked out at intervals. His walk is that of a sloth, one foot dragging heavily behind the other, I meet him as I go to the post-office, and on return- ing, twenty minutes later, I pass him again, a little farther advanced. All the children accost him, and I have seen him stop — no great retarda- tion indeed — to fondle in his arms a puppy or a kitten. Yet he is liable to excitement, in his way ; for once, in some high debate, wherein he 2 26 OLDPORT DAYS. assisted as listener, when one old man on a wharf was doubting the assertion of another old man about a certain equinoctial gale, I saw my friend draw his right hand slowly and painfully from his pocket, and let it fall hy his side. It Mas really one of the most emphatic gesticulations I ever saw, and tended obviously to quell the rising discord. It was as if the herald at a tournament had dropped his truncheon, and the fray must end. Women's faces are apt to take from old age a finer touch than those of men, and poverty does not interfere with this, where there is no actual exposure to the elements. From the windoAvs of these old houses there often look forth delicate, faded countenances, to which belongs an air of unmistakable refinement. Xowhere in America, I fancy, does one see such counterparts of the re- duced gentlewoman of England, — as described, for instance, in " Cranford," — quiet maiden ladies of seventy, Avith perhaps a tradition of beauty and bellehood, and still Avearing always a bit of blue ribbon on their once golden curls, — this head- dress being still carefully arranged, each day, by some handmaiden of sixty, so long a house-mate OLDPOHT IN WINTER. 27 as to seem a sister, though some faint suggestion of wages and subordination may be still preserved. Among these ladies, as in " Cranford," there is a dignified reticence in respect to money-matters, and a courteous blindness to the small economies practised by each other. It is not held good- breeding, when they meet in a shop of a morning, for one to seem to notice what another buys. These ancient ladies have coats of arms upon their walls, hereditary damasks among their scanty wardrobes, store of domestic traditions in their brains, and a whole Court Guide of high-sounding names at their fingers' ends. They can tell you of the supposed sister of an English queen, who married an American officer and dwelt in Oldport ; of the Scotch Lady Janet, who eloped with her tutor, and here lived in poverty, paying her wash- erwoman with costly lace from her trunks ; of the Oldport dame who escaped from France at the opening of the Eevolution, was captured by pi- rates on her voyage to America, then retaken by a privateer and carried into Boston, where she took refuge in John Hancock's house. They can describe to you the Malbone Gardens, and, as the night 28 OLDPORT DAYS. wanes and the embers fade, can give the tale of the Phantom of Eough Point. Gliding farther and farther into the past, they revert to the brilliant historic period of Oldport, the successive English and French occupations during our Eevolution, and show you gallant inscriptions in honor of their grandmothers, written on the window-panes by the diamond rings of the foreign officers. The newer strata of Oldport society are formed chiefly by importation, and have the one advan- tage of a variety of origin AA'hich puts provincial- ism out of the question. The mild winter climate and the supposed cheapness of living draw scat- tered families from the various Atlantic cities ; and, coming from such different sources, these vis- itors leave some exclusiveness behind. The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power, are doubtless good things to have in one's house, but are cumbrous to travel with. Meeting here on central ground, par- tial aristocracies tend to neutralize each other. A Boston family comes, bristling with genealogies, and making the most of its little all of two centu- ries. Another arrives from Philadelphia, equally fortified in local heraldries unknown in Boston. OLDPOET IN WINTER. 29 A third from New York brings a briefer pedigi-ee, but more gilded. Their claims are incompatible ; but there is no common standard, and so neither can have precedence. Since no human memory- can retain the great-grandmothers of three cities, we are practically as M'ell off as if we had no great-grandmothers at all. But in Oldport, as elsewhere, tlie spice of con- versation is apt to be in inverse ratio to family- tree and income-tax, and one can hear better repartees among the boat-builders' shops on Long "Wharf than among those who have made the grand tour. All the world over, one is occasionally reminded of the French officer's verdict on the garrison town wliere he was quartered, that the good society was no better than the good society anywhere else, but the bad society was capital. I like, for instance, to watch the shoals of fishermen tliat throng our streets in the early spring, inap- propriate as porpoises on land, or as Scott's pirates in peaceful Kirkwall, — unwieldy, bearded crea- tures in oil-skin suits, — men who have never before seen a basket-wagon or a liveried groom, and whose first comments on the daintinesses of 30 OLDPORT DAYS. fashion are far more racy than anything which fashion can say for itself The life of our own fishermen and pilots remains active, in its way, all Avinter ; and coasting vessels come and go in the open harbor every day. The only schooner that is not so employed is, to my eye, more attractive than any of them ; it is our sole winter guest, this year, of all the graceful flotilla of yachts that helped to make our summer moonlights so charming. While Europe seems in such ecstasy over the ocean yacht-race, there lies at anchor, stripped and dismantled, a vessel which was excluded from the match,' it is said, simply because neither of the three competitors would have had a chance against her. I like to look across the harbor at the graceful proportions of this uncroM'ned victor in the race she never ran ; and to my eye her laurels are the most attractive. She seems a fit emblem of the genius that waits, while talent merely wins. " Let me know," said that fine, but unappreciated thinker, Brownlee Brown, — " let me know what chances a man has passed in contempt ; not what he has made, but what he has refused to make, reserving himself for hiirher ends." OLDPOHT IN WINTKR. 31 All out-door \voi'k in winter has a cheerful look, from the triumph of caloric it implies ; but I know none in which man seems to revert more to the lower modes of being than in searching for sea- clams. One may sometimes observe a dozen men employed in this way, on one of our beaches, while the cold wind blows keenly off shore, and the spray drifts back like snow over the green and sluggish surge. The men pace in and out with the wave, going steadily to and fro like a pendulum, ankle-deep in the chilly brine, their steps quick- ened by hope or slackening with despair. Where the maidens and children sport and shout in sum- mer, there in winter these heavy figures succeed. To them the lovely crest of the emerald billow is but a chariot for clams, and is valueless if it comes in empty. Really, the position of the clam is the more dignified, since he moves only with the wave, and the immortal being in fish-boots wades for him. The harbor and the beach are thus occupied in winter ; but one may walk for many a mile along the cliffs, and see nothing human but a few gar- deners, spreading green and white sea-weed as 32 OLDPORT DAYS. manure upon the lawns. The mercury rarely drops to zero here, and there is little snow ; but a new- fallen drift has just the same virgin beauty as farther inland, and when one suddenly comes in view of the sea beyond it, there is a sensation of summer softness. The water is not then deep blue, but pale, with opaline reflections. Vessels in the far horizon have the same delicate tint, as if woven of the same liquid material. A single wave lifts itself languidly above a reef, — a white- breasted loon floats near the shore, — the sea breaks in long, indolent curves, — the distant islands swim in a vague mirage. Along the cliffs hang great organ-pipes of ice, distilling showers of drops that glitter in the noonday sun, while the barer rocks send up a perpetual steam, giving to the eye a sense of \\'armth, and suggesting the comforts of fire. Beneath, the low tide reveals long stretches of golden-brown sea-weed, caressed by the lapping wave. High winds bring a different scene. Sometimes I fancy that in winter, with less visible life upon the surface of the water, and less of unseen animal life below it, there is yet more that seems OLDPORT IN" WINTER. 33 like vital force in the individual particles of waves. Each separate drop appears more charged with desperate and determined life. The lines of surf run into each other more brokenly, and with less steady roll. The low sun, too, lends a weird and jagged shadow to gallop in before the crest of each advancing wave, and sometimes there is a second crest on the shoulders of the first, as if there were more than could be contained in a single curve. Greens and purples are called forth to replace the prevailing blue. Far out at sea great, separate mounds of water rear themselves, as if to overlook the tossing plain. Sometimes these move onward and subside with their green hue still unbroken, and again they curve into detached hillocks of foam, white, multitudinous, side by side, not ridged, but moving on like a mob of white horses, neck overarching neck, breast crowded against breast. Across those tumultuous waves I like to watch, after sunset, the revolving light ; there is some- thing about it so delicate and human. It seems to bud or bubble out of the low, dark horizon ; a moment, and it is not, and then another moment, and it is. With one throb the tremulous licfht is 2* c 34 OLDPORT DAYS. born ; with another throb it has reached its full size, and looks at you, coy and defiant ; and almost in that instant it is utterly gone. You cannot conceive yourself to be watching something which merely turns on an axis ; but it seems suddenly to expand, a ilower of light, or to close, as if soft petals of darkness clasped it in. During its mo- ments of absence, the eye cannot quite keep the memory of its precise position, and' it often ap- pears a hair-breadth to the right or left of tlie expected spot. This enhances the elfish and fan- tastic look, and so the pretty game goes on, with flickering surprises, every night and all night long. But the illusion of the seasons is just as coquettish ; and when next summer comes to us, with its blossoms and its joys, it will dawn as softly out of the darkness and as softly give place to winter once more. *'l^' OLDPORT WHARVES. TTIYERY one who comes to a wharf feels an -^ impulse to follow it clown, and look from the end. There is a fascination about it. It is the point of contact between land and sea. A bridge evades the water, and unites land with land, as if there were no obstacle. But a wharf seeks the water, and grasps it with a solid hand. It is the sign of a lasting friendship ; once ex- tended, there it remains ; the water embraces it, takes it into its tumultuous bosom at high tide, leaves it in peace at ebb, rushes back to it eagerly again, plays with it in sunshine, surges round it in storm, almost crushing the massive thing. But the pledge once given is never withdrawn. Build- ings may rise and fall, but a solid wharf is almost indestructible. Even if it seems destroyed, its materials are all there. This shore might be swept away, these piers be submerged or dashed 36 OLDPORT DAYS. asunder, still every brick and stone would remain. Half the wharves of Oldport were ruined in the great storm of 1815. Yet not one of them has stirred from the place where it lay ; its founda- tions have only spread more widely and firmly ; they are a part of the very pavement of the har- bor, submarine mountain ranges, on one of which yonder schooner now lies aground. Thus the wild ocean only punished itself, and has been embar- rassed for half a century, like many another mad profligate, by the ^vrecks of what it ruined. Yet the surges are wont to deal very tenderly with these wharves. In summer the sea decks them with floating weeds, and studs them with an armor of shells. In the winter it surrounds them with a smoother mail of ice, and the detached piles stand white and gleaming, like the out-door palace of a Eussian queen. How softly and eagerly this coming tide swirls round them ! All day the fishes haunt their shadows ; all night the phosphorescent water glimmers by them, and washes with long, refluent waves along their sides, decking their blackness with a spray of stars. Water seems the natural outlet and discharge OLDPORT WHARVES. 37 for every landscape, and when we have followed down this artificial promontory, a wharf, and have seen the waves on three sides of us, we have taken the first step toward circumnavigating the globe. This is our last terra Jirma. One step farther, and there is no possible foothold but a deck, which tilts and totters beneath our feet. A wharf, therefore, is properly neutral ground for all. It is a silent hos- pitality, understood by all nations. It is in some sort a thing of universal ownership. Having once built it, you must grant its use to every one ; it is no trespass to land upon any man's wharf. The sea, like other beautiful savage creatures, derives most of its charm from its reserves of un- tamed power. When a wild animal is subdued to abjectness, all its interest is gone. The ocean is never thus humiliated. So slight an advance of its waves would overwhelm us, if only the re- straining power once should fail, and the water keep on rising ! Even here, in these safe haunts of commerce, we deal with the same salt tide which I myself have seen ascend above these piers, and which within half a century drowned a whole family in their home upon our Long Wharf 38 OLDPOKT DAYS. It is still the same ungoverned ocean "vvliicli, twice ill every twenty-four hours, reasserts its right of way, and stops only where it will. At Monckton, on the Bay of Fundy, the wharves are built forty feet high, and at ebb-tide you may look down on the schooners lying aground upon the mud below. In six hours they will be floating at your side. But the motions of the tide are as resistless whether its rise be six feet or forty; as in the lazy stretching of the caged lion's paw you can see all the terrors of his spring. Our principal wharf, the oldest in the town, has lately been doubled in size, and quite transformed in shape, by an importation of broad acres from the country. It is now what is called " made land," — a manufacture which has grown so easy that I daily expect to see some enterprising con- tractor set up endwise a bar of railroad iron, and construct a new planet at its summit, which sliall presently go spinning off into space and be called an asteroid. There are some people whom it would be pleasant to colonize in that way; but meanwhile the unchanged southern side of the pier seems j)leasanter, with its boat-builders' shops. OLDPORT WHARVES. 39 all facing sunward, — a clieerful haunt upon a winter's day. On the early maps this wharf ap- pears as " Queen-Hitlie," a name more graceful than its present cognomen. " Hithe " or " Hythe " signifies a small harbor, and is the final syllable of many English names, as of Lambeth. Hythe is also one of those Cinque-Ports of which the Duke of Wellington was warden. This wharf was O probably still familiarly called Queen-Hithe in 1781, when Washington and Rochambeau walked its length bareheaded between the ranks of French soldiers ; and it doubtless bore that name when Dean Berkele}'- arrived in 1729, and the Eev. Mr. Honyman and all his flock closed hastily their prayer-books, and hastened to the landing to receive their guest. But it had lost this name ere the days, yet remembered by aged men, when the Long Wharf became a market. Beeves were then driven thither and tethered, while each hungry applicant marked with a piece of chalk upon the creature's side the desired cut; when a sufficient portion had been thus secured, the sentence of death was issued. Fancy the chalk a live coal, or the beast endowed with human consciousness, and 40 OLDrORT DAYS. no Indian or Inquisitorial tortures could have been more fearful. It is like visiting the houses at Pompeii, to enter the strange little black warehouses which cover some of our smaller wharves. They are so old and so small it seems as if some race of pyg- mies nnist have built them. Thougli they are two or three stories high, with steep gambrel-roofs, and heavily timbered, their rooms are yet so low that a man six feet high can hardly stand upright beneath the great cross-beams. There is a row of these structures, for instance, described on a map of 1762 as "the old buildings on Lopez' Wharf," and to these another century has probably brought very little change. Lopez was a Portuguese Jew, who came to this place, witli several hundred others, after the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. He is said to have owned eighty square-rigged vessels in this port, from which not one such craft now sails. His little counting-room is in the second story of the building ; its M'all-timbers are of oak, and are still sound ; the few remaining planks are grained to resemble rosewood and mahogany ; the fragments of wall-paper are of English make. In the cross- OLDPORT WHARVES. 41 beam, just above your head, are the pigeon-holes once devoted to difterent vessels, whose names are still recorded above them on faded paper, — " Ship Cleopatra," " Brig Juno," and the like. ]Many of these vessels measured less than two hundred tons, and it seems as if their owner had built his ships to match the size of his counting-room. A sterner tradition clings around an old build- ing on a remoter wharf; for men have but lately died who had seen slaves pass within its doors for confinement. The wharf in those days appertained to a distillery, an establishment then constantly connected with the slave-trade, rum being sent to Africa, and human beings brought back. Occa- sionally a cargo was landed here, instead of being sent to the West Indies or to South Carolina, and this building was fitted up for their temporary quarters. It is but some twenty-five feet square, and must be less than thirty feet in height, yet it is divided into three stories, of which the lowest was used for other purposes, and the two upper were reserved for slaves. There are still to be seen the barred partitions and latticed door, mak- ing half the second floor into a sort of cage, while 42 OLDPORT DAYS. the agent's room appears to have occupied the other half. A similar latticed door — just such as I have seen in Southern slave-pens — secures the foot of the upper stairway. The whole small attic constitutes a single room, with a couple of windows, and two additional breathing-holes, two feet square, opening on the yard. It makes one sick to think of the poor creatures who may once have griped those bars with their hands, or have glared with eager eyes between them ; and it makes me recall with delight the day when I once wrenched away the stocks and chains from the floor of a pen like this, on the St. ]\Iary's Eiver in Florida. It is al- most forty years since this distillery became a mill, and sixty since the slave-trade was abolished. The date "1803 " is scrawled upon the door of the cage, — the very year when the port of Charleston was reopened for slaves, just before the traffic ceased. A few years more, and such horrors will seem as remote a memory in South Carolina, thank God ! as in Ehode Island. Other wharves are occupied by mast-yards, places that seem like play-rooms for grown men, crammed fuller than any old garret with those odds and ends OLDPORT WHARVES. 43 in wliieli the youtlit'ul soul delights. Tliere are planks and spars and timber, broken rudders, rusty anchors, coils of rope, bales of sail-cloth, heaps of blocks, piles of chain-cable, great iron tar-kettles like antique helmets, strange machines for steam- ing planks, inexplicable little chimneys, engines that seem like dwarf-locomotives, windlasses that apparently turn nothing, and incipient canals that lead nowhere. For in these yards there seems no particular difference between land and water ; the tide comes and goes anywhere, and nobody minds it ; boats are drawn up among burdocks and am- brosia, and the platform on which you stand sud- denly proves to be something afloat. Vessels are hauled upon the ways, each side of the wharf, their poor ribs pitiably unclothed, ready for a cumbrous mantua-making of oak and iron. On one side, within a floating " boom, lies a fleet of masts and unhewn logs, tethered uneasily, like a herd of cap- tive sea-monsters, rocking in the ripples. A vast shed, that has doubtless looked ready to fall for these dozen years, spreads over half tlie entrance to the wharf, and is filled with spars, knee-timber, and planks of fragrant wood ; its uprights are 44 OLDPORT DAYS. festooned with all manner of great hawsers and smaller ropes, and its dim loft is piled with empty casks and idle sails. The sun always seems to shine in a ship-yard ; there are apt to be more loungers than laborers, and this gives a pleasant air of repose ; the neighboring water softens all harsher sounds, the foot treads upon an elastic carpet of embedded chips, and pleasant resinous odors are in the air. Then there are wharves quite abandoned by commerce, and given over to small tenements, filled with families so abundant that they might dispel the fears of those alarmists who suspect that children are ceasing to be born. Shrill voices resound there — American or Irish, as the case may be — through the summer noontides ; and the domestic clothes-line forever stretches across the paths where imported slaves once trod, or rich merchandise lay piled. Some of these abodes are nestled in the corners of houses once stately, with large windows and carven doorways. Others occupy separate buildings, almost always of black, unpainted ^\ood, sometimes with the long, slojiing roof of Massachusetts, oftcner with the OLDPORT WHARVES. 45 quaint " garabrel " of Pihode Island. From the busiest point of our main street, I can show you a single cottage, with low gables, projecting eaves, and sheltering sweetbrier, that seems as if it must have strayed hither, a century or two ago, out of some English lane. Some of the more secluded wharves appear wholly deserted by men and women, and are ten- anted alone by rats and boys, — two amphibious races ; eitlier can swim anywhere, or scramble and penetrate everywhere. The boys launch some abandoned skiff, and, with an oar for a sail and another for a rudder, pass from wharf to wharf ; nor would it be surprising if the bright-eyed rats were to take similar passage on a shingle. Yet, after all, the human juveniles are the more saga- cious brood. It is strange that people should go to Europe, and seek the society of potentates less imposing, when home can endow them with the occasional privilege of a nod from an American boy. In these sequestered haunts, I frequently meet some urchin three feet high who carries with him an air of consummate worldly expe- rience that completely overpowers me, and I seem 46 OLDPOKT DAYS. to shrink to the dimensions of Tom Tlnimb. Be- fore his calm and terrible glance all disguises fail. You may put on a bold and careless air, and affect to overlook him as you pass ; but it is like assum- ing to ignore the existence of the Pope of Eome, or of the London Times. He knows better. Grown men are never very formidable ; they are shy and shamefaced themselves, usually preoccupied, and not very observing. If they see a man loitering about, without visible aim, they class him as a mild imbecile, and let him go ; but boys are nature's detectives, and one does not so easily evade their scrutinizing eyes. I know full well that, while I study their ways, they are noting mine through a clearer lens, and are probably tak- ing my measure far better than I take theirs. One instinctively shrinks from making a sketch or memorandum w^hile they are by ; and if caught in the act, one fondly hopes to pass for some harmless speculator in real estate, whose pencillings may be only a matter of habit, like those casual sums in compound interest which are usually to be found scrawled on the margins of the daily papers in Boston reading-rooms. OLDrORT WHARVES. 47 Our wharves are almost all connected liy intri- cate by-ways among the buildings ; and one almost wishes to be a pirate or a smuggler, for the pleasure of eluding the officers of justice through such se- ductive paths. It is, perhaps, to counteract this perilous fascination that our new police-office has been established on a wharf You will see its brick tower rising not ungracefully, as you enter the inner harbor ; it looks the better for being al- most windowless, though beauty was not the aim of the omission. A curious stranger is said to have asked one of our city fathers the reason of this peculiarity. " No use in windows," said the experienced official sadly ; " the boys would only break 'em." It seems very unjust to assert that there is ilo subordination in our American society ; the citizens sliow deference to the police, and the police to the boys. The ancient aspect of these wharves extends itself sometimes to the vessels which lie moored beside tliem. At yonder pier, for instance, has lain for thirteen years a decaying bark, whicli was suspected of being engaged in the slave-trade. She was run ashore and abandoned on Block 48 OLDPOET DAYS. Island, in the winter of 1854, and was afterwards brought in here. Her purchaser was offered eight thousand dollars for his bargain, but refused it ; and here the vessel has remained, paying annual wharf dues and charges, till she is worthless. She lies chained at the wharf, and the tide rises and falls witliin lier, thus furnishing a convenient bathing-house for the children, who also find a perpetual gymnasium in the broken shrouds that dangle from her masts. Turner, when he painted his " slave-ship," could have asked no better model. There is no name upon the stern, and it exhibits merely a carved eagle, with the wings clipped and the head knocked off. Only the lower masts re- main, which are of a dismal black, as are the tops and mizzen cross-trees. Within the bulwarks, on each side, stand rows of bUick blocks, to which the shrouds were once attached ; these blocks are called by sailors " dead-eyes," and each stands in weird mockery, with its three ominous holes, like so many human skulls before some palace in Da- homey. Other blocks like these swing more omi- nously yet at the ends of the shrouds, that still hang suspended, waving and creaking and jostling OLDPORT WHARVES. 49 ill the wind. Each year tlie ropes decay, and soon the repulsive pendants will be gone. Not so with the iron belaying-pins, a few of which still stand around the mast, so rusted into the iron fife-rail that even the persevering industry of the children cannot "svrench them out. It seems as if some guilty stain must cling to their sides, and hold them in. By one of those fitnesses which fortune often adjusts, but which seem incredible in art, the wharf is now used on one side for the storage of slate, and the hulk is approached through an avenue of gravestones. I never find myself in that neighborhood but my steps instinctively seek that condemned vessel, whether by day, when she makes a dark foreground for the white yaclits and the summer waves, or by night, when the storm breaks over her desolate deck. If we follow northward from " Queen-Hithe " along the shore, we pass into a region w^here the ancient wharves of commerce, ruined in 1815, have never been rebuilt ; and only slender path- ways for pleasure voyagers now stretcli above the submerged foundations. Once the court end of the town, then its commercial centre, it is now 3 D 50 OLDPORT DAYS. divided between the tenemerxts of fishermen and the summer homes of city households. Still the great old houses remain, with mahogany stairways, carved wainscoting, and painted tiles ; the sea has encroached upon their gardens, and only boats like mine approach where English dukes and French courtiers once landed. At . the head of yonder private wharf, in that spacious and still cheerful abode, dwelt the beautiful Robinson sisterhood, — the three Quaker belles of Eevolutionary days, the memory of whose loves might lend romance to this neighborhood forever. One of these maidens was asked in marriage by a captain in the English army, and was banished by her family to the Narragansett shore, under a flag of truce, to avoid him ; her lover w^as afterward killed by a cannon-ball, in liis tent, and she died unwedded. Another was souglit by two aspirants, who came in the same sliip to woo her, the one from Phila- delphia, the other from New York. She refused them both, and they sailed soutliward together ; but, the wind. proving adverse, they returned, and one lingered till he won her hand. Still another lover was forced into a vessel by his friends, to OLDPORT WHARVES. 51 tear him from the enchanted neighborhood ; while sailing past the house, he suddenly threw himself into the water, — it must have been about where the end of the wharf now rests, — that he might be rescued, and carried, a passive Leander, into yonder door. The house was first the head-quar- ters of the English commander, then of the French ; and the sentinels of De Noailles once trod where now croquet-balls form the heaviest ordnance. Peaceful and untitled guests now throng in sum- mer where St. Vincents and North umberlands once rustled and glittered ; and there is nothing to recall those brilliant days except the painted tiles on the chimney, where there is a choice society of coquettes and beaux, priests and conjurers, beggars and dancers, and every wig and hoop dates back to the days of Queen Anne. Sometimes when I stand upon this pier by night, and look across the calm black water, so still, per- haps, that the starry reflections seem to drop through it in prolonged javelins of light instead of resting on the surface, and the opposite light- house spreads its cloth of gold across the bay, — I can imagine that I discern the French and Eng- 52 OLDPOllT DAYS. lisli vessels just weighing anchor; I see De Lauziin and De Noailles embarking, and catch the last sheen upon their lace, the last glitter of tlieir swords. It vanishes, and I see only the lighthouse gleam, and the dark masts of a sunken ship across the neighboring island. Those motion- less spars have, after all, a nearer interest, and, as I saw them sink, I will tell their tale. That vessel came in here one day last August, a stately, full-sailed bark ; nor was it known, till she had anchored, that she was a mass of im- prisoned fire below. She was the " Trajan," from Rockland, bound to J^ew Orleans with a cargo of lime, which took fire in a gale of wind, being wet with sea-water as the vessel rolled. The captain and crew retreated to the deck, and made the hatches fast, leaving even their clothing and pro- visions below. They remained on deck, after reaching this harbor, till the planks grew too hot beneatli their feet, and the water came boiling from the pumps. Then the vessel was towed into a depth of five fathoms, to be scuttled and sunk. I watched her go down. Early impressions from " Peter Parley " had portrayed the sinking of a OLDPORT WHARVES. 53 vessel as a frightful plunge, endangering all around, like a maelstrom. The actual process was merely a subsidence so calm and gentle that a child might have stood upon the deck till it sank beneath him, and then might have floated away. Instead of a convulsion, it was something stately and very pa- thetic to the imagination. The bark remained al- most level, the bows a little higher than the stern ; and her breath appeared to be surrendered in a series of pulsations, as if every gasp of the lungs admitted more of the suffocating wave. After each long heave, she went visibly a few inches deeper, and then paused. The face of the benign Em- peror, her namesake, was on the stern ; first sank the carven beard, then the rather mutilated nose, then the white and staring eyes, that gazed blank- ly over the engulfing waves. The figure-head was Trajan again, at full length, with the costume of an Indian hunter, and the face of a Roman sage ; this image lingered longer, and then vanished, like Victor Hugo's Gilliatt, by cruel gradations. Mean- while the gilded name upon the taffrail had slowly disappeared also ; but even when the ripples began to meet across her deck, still her descent was 54 OLDPORT DxVYS. calm. As the water gained, the hidden fire was extingiiishxed, and the smoke, at first densely rising, grew rapidly less. Yet when it had stopped alto- gether, and all but the top of the cabin had dis- appeared, there came a new ebullition of steam, like a hot spring, throwing itself several feet in ail', and then ceasing. As the vessel went down, several beams and planks came springing endwise up the hatchway, like liberated men. But nothing had a stranger look to me than some great black casks which had been left on deck. These, as the water floated them, seemed to stir and wake, and to become gifted with life, and then got into motion and wal- lowed heavily about, like hippopotami or any un- wieldy and bewildered beasts. At last the most enterprising of them slid somehow to the bulwark, and, after several clumsy efforts, shouldered itself over ; then others bounced out, eagerly following, as sheep leap a wall, and then they all went iDob- bing away, over the dancing waves. For the wind blew fresh meanwhile, and there were some twenty sail-boats lying-to with reefed sails by the wreck, like so many sea-birds ; and when the loose stuft' OLDPORT WHARVES. 55 began to be washed from the deck, they all took wing at once, to save whatever could be picked up, — since at such times, as at a conflagration on land, every little thing seems to assume a value, — and at last one young fellow steered boldly up to the sinking ship itself, sprang upon the vanishing taffrail for one instant, as if resolved to be the last on board, and then pushed off again. I never saw anything seem so extinguislied out of the universe as that great vessel, which had towered so colossal above my little boat ; it was impossible to imagine that she was all there yet, beneath the foaming and indifferent weaves. No effort has yet been made fo raise her ; and a dead eagle seems to have more in common with the living bird than has now this submerged and decaying hulk with the white and winged creature that came sailing into ■ our harbor on that summer day. It shows what conversational resources are always at hand in a seaport town, that the boat- man with whom I first happened to visit this burning vessel had been thrice at sea on ships similarly destroyed, and could give all the particu- lars of their fate. I know no class of uneducated 66 ^ OLDPORT DAYS. men A\hose talk is so apt to be worth hearing as tliat of" sailors. Even apart from their personal adventures and their glimpses at foreign lands, they have made observations of nature which are far more careful and minute than those of farmers, because the very lives of sailors are always at risk. Their voyages have also made them sociable and fond of talk, while the pursuits of most men tend to make them silent ; and their constant changes of scene, though not touching them very deeply, have really given a certain enlargement to their minds. A quiet demeanor in a seaport town proves nothing ; the most inconspicuous man may have the most thrilling career to look back upon. AVith what a superb familiarity do these men treat this habitable globe ! Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope are in their phrase but the West Cape and the East Cape, merely two familiar portals of their wonted home. With what undis- guised contempt they speak of the enthusiasm displayed over the ocean yacht-race ! That any man should boast of crossing the Atlantic in a schooner of two hundred tons, in presence of those who have more than once reached the In- OLDPORT WHARVES. 57 diaii Ocean in a fishing-smack of fifty, and have beaten in the homeward race tlie ships in whose company they sailed ! It is not many years since there was here a fishing-skipper, whose surname M'as " Daredevil," and who sailed from this port to all parts of the world, on sealing voyages, in a sloop so small that she was popularly said to go under water when she got outside the lights, and never to reappear until she reached her port. And not only those who sail on long voyages, but even our local pilots and fishermen, still lead an adventurous and untamed life, less softened tlian any other by the appliances of modern days. In their undecked boats they hover day and night along these stormy coasts, and at any hour the beating of the long-roll upon the beach may call their full manhood into action. Cowardice is sifted and crushed out from among them by a pressure so constant ; and they are withal truthful and steady in their ways, with few vices and many virtues. They are born poor, and remain poor, for their work is hard, with more blanks than prizes ; but their life is a life for a man, and though it makes them prematurely old, yet their old age 58 OLDPORT DAYS. comes peacefully and well. In almost all pursuits the advance of years brings something forlorn. It is not merely that the body decays, but that men grow isolated and are pushed aside; there is no common interest between age and youtli. The old farmer leads a lonely existence, and ceases to meet his compeers except on Sunday ; nobody consults him ; his experience has been monot- onous, and his age is apt to grow unsocial. The old mechanic finds his tools and his methods su- perseded by those of younger men. But the superannuated fisherman graduates into an oracle ; the longer he lives, the greater the dignity of his experience ; he remembers the great storm, the great tide, the great catch, the great shipwreck; and on all emergencies his counsel has weight. He still busies himself about the boats too, and still sails on sunny days to show the youngsters the best fishing-ground. When too infirm for even this, he can at least sun himself beside the landing, and, dreaming over inexhaustible memo- ries, watch the bark of his own life go down. THE HAUNTED WINDOW. IT was always a mystery to me where Severance got precisely liis combination of qualities. His father was simply what is called a handsome man, with stately figure and curly black hair, not without a certain dignity of manner, but witli a face so shallow that it did not even seem to ripple, and with a voice so prosy that, when he spoke of the sky, you wished there were no such thing. His mother was a fair, little, pallid creature, — wash-blond, as tliey say of lace, — patient, meek, and .always fatigued and fatiguing. But Sever- ance, as I first knew him, was the soul of activity. He had dark eyes, that had a great deal of light in them, without corresponding depth; his hair was dark, straight, and very soft ; his mouth ex- pressed sweetness, without much strength; he talked well ; and though lie was apt to have a wandering look, as if his thoughts were laying a 60 OLDPOKT DAYS. submarine cable to another continent, yet the young girls were always glad to have the sem- blance of conversation with him in this. To me he was in tlie last degree lovable. He had just enough of that subtile quality called genius, per- haps, to spoil first his companions, and then him- self. His words had weight with you, though you might know yourself wiser ; and if you went to give him the most reasonable advice, you were suddenly seized w^ith a slight paralysis of the tongue. Thus it was, at any rate, with me. We were cemented therefore by the firmest ties, — a nominal seniority on my part, and a substantial supremacy on his. We lodged one summer at an old house in that odd suburb of Oldport called "The Point." It is a sort of Artists' Quarter of the town, fre- quented by a class of summer visitors more ad- dicted to sailiniT and sketchine, equally puzzled. THE IIAUXTED WINDOW. G7 " Not there," he said. " In the window." I looked in at the window, saw nothing, and said so. There was the great empty drawing- room, across which one could see the opposite window, and through this the eastern piazza and the. garden beyond. Nothing more was there. With some persuasion. Severance was induced to look in. He admitted that he saw nothing pecu- liar ; but he refused all explanation, and we went home. '•' Never let me go to that house again," he said abruptly, as we entered our own door. I pointed out to him the absurdity of thus yield- ing to a nervous delusion, which was already in part conquered, and he finally promised to revisit the scene with me the next day. To clear all pos- sible misgivings from my own mind, I got the key of the house from Paul, explored it thoroughly, and was satisfied that no improper visitor had recently entered the drawing-room at least, as the windows were strongly bolted on the inside, and a large cobweb, heavy with dust, liung across the doorway. This did no great credit to Paul's stewardship, but was, perhaps, a slight relief to me. Nor could I 68 OLDPORT DAYS. see a trace of anything nncanny outside the house. When Severance went with me, next day, the coast was equally clear, and I was glad to have cured him so easily. Unfortunately, it did not last. A few days after, there was a brilliant sunset, after a storm, with goi^eous yellow light slanting everywhere, and the sun looking at us between bars of dark purple cloud, edged with gold where they touched the pale blue sky ; all this fading at last into a great whirl of gray to the northward, with a cold purple ground. At the height of the show, I climbed the wall to my favorite piazza, and was surprised to find Severance already there. He sat facing the sunset, but with his head sunk between his hands. At my approach, he looked up, and rose to his feet. " Do not deceive me any more," he said, almost savagely, and pointed to the window. I looked in, and must confess that, for a mo- ment, I too was startled. There was a perceptible moment of time during which it seemed as if no possible philosophy could explain what appeared in sight. Not that any object showed itself with- THE HAUNTED WINDOW, 69 in the great drawing-room^ but I distinctly saw — across the apartment, and through the opposite window — the dark figure of a man about liiy own size, Avho leaned against the long window, and gazed intently on me. Above him spread the yellow sunset light, around him the birch-boughs hung and the ivy-tendrils swayed, while behind him there appeared a glimmering water-surface, across which slowly drifted the tall masts of a schooner. It looked strangely like a view I had seen of some foreign harbor, — Amalfi, perhaps, — with a vine-clad balcony and a single human figure in the foreground. So real and startling was the sight that at first it was not easy to re- solve the whole scene into its component parts. Yet it was simply such a confused mixture of real and reflected images as one often sees from the window of a railway carriage, where the mirrored interior seems to glide beside the train, with the natural landscape for a background. In this case, also, the frame and foliage of the picture were real, and all else was reflected ; the sunlit bay be- hind us was reproduced as in a camera, and the dark figure was but the full-length image of myself. 70 OLDPORT DAYS. It was easy to explain all this to Severance, but he shook his head. " So cool a philosopher as yourself," he said, " should remember that this image is not always visible. At our last visit, we looked for it in vain. Wlien we first saw it, it appeared and disappeared within ten minutes. On your mechanical theory it should be other- wise." This staggered me for a moment. Tlien the ready solution occurred, that the reflection de- pended on the strength and direction of the light ; and I proved to him that, in our case, it had ap- peared and disappeared with the sunshine. He was silenced, but evidently not convinced ; yet time and common-sense, it seemed, would take care of that. Soon after all this, I was called out of town for a week or two. If Severance would go wdth me, it would doubtless complete the cure, I thought ; but this he obstinately declined. After my de- parture, my sister w'rote, he seemed absolutely to haunt the empty house by the Blue Eocks. He undoubtedly went here to sketch, she thought. The house was in charge of a real-estate agent, — THE HAUNTED WINDOW. 71 a retired landscape-painter, whose pictures did not sell so profitably as their originals ; and her the- ory was, that this agent hoped to make our friend buy the place, and so allured him there under pre- tence of sketching. ]\Ioreover, she surmised, he was studying some effect of shadow, because, un- like most men, he appeared in decent spirits only on cloudy days. It is always so easy to fit a man out with a set of ready-made motives ! But I drew my own conclusions, and was not surprised to hear, soon after, that Severance was seriously ill. This brought me back at once, — sailing down from Providence in an open boat, I remember, one lovely moonlight night. Next day I saw Sev- erance, who declared that he had suffered from nothing worse than a prolonged sick-headache. I soon got out of him all that had happened. He had seen the figure in the window every sunny day, he said. Of course he had, if he chose to look for it, and I could only smile, though it perhaps seemed unkind. But I stojjped smiling when he went on to tell that, not satisfied with these observations, he had visited the house by 72 OLDPORT DAYS. moonlight also, and had then seen, as he averred, a second figure standing beside the first. Of course, there was no defence against such a theory as this, except simply to laugh it down ; but it made me very anxious, for it showed that he was growing thoroughly morbid. " Either it was pure fancy," I said, " or it was Paul the gardener." But here he was prepared for me. It seemed that, on seeing the two figures. Severance had at once left the piazza, and, with an instinct of com- mon-sense that was surprising, had crossed the garden, scaled the wall, and looked in at the win- dow of Paul's little cottage, where the man and his wife were quietly seated at supper, probably after a late fishing-trip. " There was another rea- son," he said ; but here he stopped, and would give no description of the second figure, which he had, however, seen twice again, always by moon- light. He consented to let me accompany him the following night. We accordingly went. It was a calm, clear night, and the moon lay brightly on the bay. Tlie distant shores looked low and filmy ; a naVal vessel was in the harbor, and there was a ball on THE HAUNTED WINDOW. 73 board, with music and fire-works ; some fishermen were singing in their boats, late as was the hour. Severance was absorbed in his own gloomy rever- ies ; and when we had crossed the wall, the world seemed left outside, and the glamour of the place began to creep over me also. I seemed to see my companion relapsing into some phantom realm, beyond power of withdrawal. I talked, sang, whis- tled ; but it was all a rather hollow effort, and soon ceased. The great house looked gloomy and impenetrable, the moonlight appeared sick and sad, the birch-boughs rustled in a dreary way. "We went up the steps in no jubilant mood. I crossed the piazza at once, looked in at the farthest window, and saw there my own image, though far more faintly than in the sunlight. Severance then joined me, and liis reflected shape stood by mine. Something of the first ghostly impression was renewed, 1 must confess, by this meeting of the two shadows ; there was something rather awful in the way the bodiless things nodded and gesticulated at each other in silence. Still, there was nothing more than this, as Severance was compelled to own ; and I was trying to turn 74 OLDPORT DAYS. the whole affair into ridicule, whea suddenly, without sound or warning, I saw — as distinctly as I perceive the words I now write — yet another figure stand at the window, gaze steadfastly at us for a moment, and then disappear. It was, as I fancied, that of a woman, but was totally enveloped in a very full cloak, reaching to the ground, with a peculiarly cut hood, that stood erect and seemed half as long as the body of the garment. I had a vague recollection of having seen some such cos- tume in a picture. Of course, I daslied round the corner of the house, threaded the birch-trees, and stood on the eastern piazza. No one was there Without losing an instant, I ran to the garden wall and climbed it, as Severance had done, to look into Paul's cottage. That worthy was just getting into bed, in a state of complicated deshahille, his black- bearded head wrapped in an old scarlet hand- kerchief that made him look like a retired pirate in reduced circumstances. He being accounted for, I vainly traversed the shrubberies, returned to the western piazza, watched awhile uselessly, and went home with Severance, a good deal puzzled. THE HAUNTED WINDOW. 75 By daylight the whole thing seemed different. That I had seen the figure there was no doubt. It was not a reflected image, for we had no compan- ion. It was, then, human. After all, thought I, it is a commonplace thing enougli, this mastxuerading in a cloak and hood. Some one has oljserved Severance's nocturnal visits, and is amusing him- self at his expense. The peculiarity was, that the thing was so well done, and the figure had such an air of dignity, that somehow it was not so easy to make light of it in talking with him. I went into his room,* next day. His sick- headache, or whatever it was, had come on again, and he was lying on his bed. Rutherford's strange old book on the Second Sight lay open before him. " Look there," he said ; and I read the motto of a chapter : — " In sunliglit one, In shadow none, In moonlight two, In thnndcr two, Then comes Death." I threw the book indignantly from me, and began to invent doggerel, parodying this precious incantation. But Severance did not seem to enjoy 76 OLDPORT DAYS. the joke, and it grows tiresome to enact one's own farce and do one's own applauding. For several days after lie was laid up in earnest ; but instead of getting any mental rest from this, he lay poring over that preposterous book, and it really seemed as if his brain were a little disturbed. Meanwhile I watched the great house, day and night, sought for footsteps, and, by some odd fancy, took frequent observations on the gardener and his wife. Failing to get any clew, I waited one day for Paul's absence, and made a call upon the wife, under pretence of hunting up a missing handkerchief, — for she had been my laundress. I found the handsome, swarthy creature, with her six bronzed children around her, training up the Madeira vine that made a bower of the whole side of her little, black, gambrel-roofed cottage. On learning my errand, she became full of sympathy, and was soon emptying her bureau-drawers in pursuit of the lost handkerchief As she opened the lowest drawer, I saw within it something which sent all the blood to my face for a moment. It was a black cloth cloak, with a stiff hood two feet long, of precisely the pattern worn by the THE HAUNTED WINDOW. 77 unaccountable visitant at the window. I turned almost fiercely upon her ; but she looked so inno- cent as she stood there, caressing and dusting with her fingers what was evidently a pet garment, that it was really impossible to denounce her. " Is that a Bavarian cloak ? " said I, trying to be cool and judicial. Here broke in the eldest boy, named John, aged ten, a native American, and a sailor already, whom I liad twice fished up from a capsized punt. " Mother ain't a Bavarian," quoth the young salt. " Father 's a Bavarian ; mother 's a Portegee. Portegees wear them hoods." " I am a Portuguese, sir, from Fayal," said the woman, prolonging with sweet intonation the soft name of her birthplace. " This is my capote" she added, taking up with pride the uncouth costume, while the children gathered round, as if its vast folds came rarely into sight. " It has not been unfolded for a year," she said. As she spoke, she dropped it with a cry, and a little mouse sprang from the skirts, and whisked away into some corner. We found that the little animal had made its abode in the heavy woollen, 78 OLDPORT DAYS. of which three or four thicknesses had been eaten through, and then matted together into the softest of nests. This contained, moreover, a small fam- ily of mouselets, who certainly had not taken part in any midnight masquerade. The secret seemed more remote than ever, for I knew that there was no other Portuguese family in the town, and there was no confounding this peculiar local costume with any other. Eeturning to Severance's chamber, I said noth- ing of all this. He was, by an odd coincidence, looking over a portfolio of Fayal sketches made by himself during his late voyage. Among them were a dozen studies of just such cetjjotes as I had seen, — some in profile, completely screening the wearer, others disclosing M-omen's faces, old or young. He seemed to wish to put them away, however, when I came in. IJeally, the plot seemed to thicken ; and it was a little provoking to under- stand it no better, when all the materials seemed close to one's hands. A day or two later, I was summoned to Boston. Eeturning thence by the stage-coach, we drove from Tiverton, the whole length of the island, un- THE HAUNTED WINDOW. 79 cler one of tliose wild and wonderful skies which give, better tlian anytliing in nature, the effect of a field of battle. The heavens were filled with ten thousand separate masses of cloud, varying in shade from palest gray to iron-black, borne rapidly to and fro by upper and lower currents of oppos- ing wind. They seemed to be charging, retreat- ing, breaking, recorabining, with puffs of what seemed smoke, and a few wan sunbeams some- times striking through for fire. Wherever the eye turned, there appeared some flying fragment not seen before ; and yet in an hour this noiseless Antietam grew still, and a settled leaden film overspread the sky, yielding only to some level lines of light where the sun went down. Perhaps our driver was looking toward the sky more than to his own affairs, for, just as all this ended a wheel gave out, and we had to stop in Ports- moutli for repairs. By the time we were again in motion, the changing wind had brought up a final thunder-storm, which broke upon us ere we reached our homes. It was rather an uncom- mon thing, so late in the season ; for the light- ning, like other brilliant visitors, usually appears 80 OLDPOKT DAYS. in Oldport during only a month or two of every year. The coach set me down at my own door, so soaked that I might have floated in. I peeped into Severance's room, however, on the way to my own. Strange to say, no one was there ; yet some one had evidently been lying on the bed, and on the pillow lay the old book on the Second Sight, open at the very page which had so be- witched him and vexed me. I glanced at it me- chanically, and when I came to the meaningless jumble, " In thunder two," a flash flooded tlie chamber, and a sudden fear struck into my mind. Who knew what insane experiment might have come into that boy's head ? With sudden impulse, I went down stairs, and found the whole house empty, until a stupid old woman, coming in from the wood-house with her apron full of turnips, told me that Severance had been missing since nightfall, after being for a week in bed, dangerously ill, and sometimes slight- ly delirious. The family had become alarmed, and were out with lanterns, in search of him. It was safe to say that none of them had more THE HAUNTED WINDOW. 81 reason to be alarmed than I. It was something, liowever, to know where to seek him. Meeting two neighboring fishermen, I took them with me. As we approached the well-known wall, the blast blew out our lights, and we could scarcely speak. The lightning had grown less frequent, yet sheets of flame seemed occasionally to break over the dark, square sides of the house, and to send a flickering flame along the ridge-pole and eaves, like a surf of light. A surf of water broke also behind us on the Blue Eocks, sounding as if it pursued our very footsteps ; and one of the men whispered hoarsely to me, that a Nantucket brig liad parted her cable, and was drifting in shore. As we entered the garden, lights gleamed in the shrubbery. To my surprise, it was Paul and his wife, with their two oldest children, — these last being quite delighted with the stir, and showing so much illumination, in the lee of the house, that it was quite a Feast of Lanterns. They seemed a little surprised at meeting us, too ; but we might as well have talked from Point Judith to Beaver Tail as to have attempted conversation there. I walked round the building ; but a flash of light- 4* F 82 OLDPORT DAYS. niug showed nothing on the western piazza save a birch-tree, which lay across, blown down by the storm. I therefore Avent inside, with Paul's house- hold, leaving the fishermen without. Never shall I forget that search. As we went from empty room to room, the thunder seemed rolling on the very roof, and the sharp flashes of lightning appeared to put out our lamps and then kindle them again. We traversed the upper re- gions, mounting by a ladder to the attic ; then descended into the cellar and the wine-vault. The thorough bareness of the house, the fact that no bright-eyed mice peeped at us from their holes, no uncouth insects glided on the walls, no flies buzzed in the unwonted lamplight, scarcely a spider slid down his damp and trailing web, — all this seemed to enhance the mystery. The vacancy was more dreary than desertion: it was something old which had never been young. We found ourselves speaking in whispers ; the children kept close to their parents ; we seemed to be chasing some awful Silence from room to room ; and the last apartment, the great draAving-room, we really seemed loath to enter. The less the rest of the THE H.\U^'TED WINDOW. 83 house had to show, the more, it seemed, must be concentrated there. Even as we entered, a blast of air from a broken pane extinguished our last light, and it seemed to take many minutes to re- kindle it. As it shone once more, a brilliant lightning- flash also swept through the window, and flick- ered and flickered, as if it would never have done. The eldest child suddenly screamed, and pointed with her finger, first to one great window and then to its opposite. My eyes instinctively followed the successive directions ; and the double glance gave me all I came to seek, and more than all. Outside the western window lay Severance, his white face against the pane, his eyes gazing across and past us, — struck down doubtless by the fallen tree, which lay across the piazza, and hid him from external view. Opposite him, and seen through the eastern window, stood, statue-like, the hooded figure, but with the great capote thrown back, showing a sad, eager, girlish face, with dark eyes, and a good deal of black hair, — one of those faces of peasant beauty such as America never shows, — faces M'here ignorance is almost raised into re- 84 OLDPORT DAYS. finement by its childlike look. Contrasted with Severance's wild gaze, the countenance wore an expression of pitying forgiveness, almost of calm ; yet it told of wasting sorrow and the wreck of a life. Gleaming lustrous beneath the lightning, it had a more mystic look when the long flash had ceased, and the single lantern burned beneath it, like an altar-lamp before a shrine. " It is Aunt Emilia," exclaimed the little girl ; and as she spoke, the father, turning angrily upon her, dashed the light to the ground, and groped his way out without a word of answer. I A\as too much alarmed about Severance to care for aught else, and quickly made my way to the A\'est- ern piazza, M-here I found him stunned by the fallen tree, — injured, I feared, internally, — still conscious, but unable to speak. With the aid of my two companions I got him home, and he was ill for several weeks before he died. During his illness he told me all he had to tell; and though Paul and his family disap- peared next day, — perhaps going on board the Nantucket brig, which had narrowly escaped ship- wreck, — I afterwards learned all the remaining THE HAUNTED WINDOW, 85 facts from the only neighbor in whom they had placed confidence. Severance, while convalescing at a country-house in Fayal, had fallen passionately in love with a young peasant-girl, who had broken off' her intended marriage for love of him, and had sunk into a half-imbecile melancholy when de- serted. She had afterwards come to this country, and joined her sister, Paul's wife. Paul had re- ceived her reluctantly, and only on condition that her existence should be concealed. This was the easier, as it was one of her whims to go out only by night, when she had haunted the great house, wliich, she said, reminded her of her own island, so that she liked to wear thither the ccqjote which had been the pride of her heart at home. On the few occasions when she had caught a glimpse of Severance, he had seemed to her, no doubt, as much a phantom as she seemed to him. On tlie night of the storm, they had both sought their favorite haunt, unconscious of each other, and the friends of each had followed in alarm. I got traces of the family afterwards at Nan- tucket, and later at Narragansett, and had reason to think that Paid was employed, one summer, by a 86 OLDPORT DAYS. farmer on Conaniciit; but I -was always just too late for them ; and the money whicli Severance left, as his only reparation for poor Emilia, never was paid. The affair was hushed up, and very few, even among the neighbors, knew the tragedy that had passed by them with the storm. After Severance died, I had that temporary feel- ing of weakened life which remains after tlie first friend or the first love passes, and the heart seems to lose its sense of infinity. His father came, and prosed, and measured the windows of the empty house, and calculated angles of reflection, and poured even death and despair into his crucible of commonplace ; the mother whined in lier feebler way at liome ; while the only brother, a talkative medical student, tried to pooh-pooh it all, and sent me a letter demonstrating that Emilia was never in America, and that the whole was an liallucina- tion. I cared nothing for his theory; it all seemed like a dream to me, and, as all the actors but my- self are gone, it seems so still. The great house is yet unoccupied, and likely to remain so ; and he who looks througli its western window may still be startled by the weird image of himself. As I THE HAUNTED WINDOW. 87 lingered round it, to-day, beneath the winter sun- light, the snow drifted pitilessly past its ivied windows, and so hushed my footsteps that I scarce knew which was the phantom, myself or my re- flection, and wondered if the medical student would not argue me out of existence next. This is the end of my story. If I sought for a moral, it would be hard to attach one to a thing so slight. It could only be this, that shadow and substance are always ready to link themselves, in unexpected ways, against the diseased imagination ; and that remorse can make the most transparent crystal into a mirror for its sin. A DEIFT-WOOD FIEE. " This ae iiighte, this ae nighte, Every nighte and alle, Fire and salt and candle-lighte, And Christe receive thy saule." A Lykc- Wake Dirge. rriHE October days grow mpidly shorter, and brighten with more concentrated lidit. It is but half past five, yet the sun dips redly behind Conanicut, the sunset-gun booms from our neigh- bor's yacht, the flag glides down from his mainmast, and the slender pennant, running swiftly up the opposite halyards, dances and flickers like a flame, and at last perches, with dainty hesitation, at the mast-head. A tint of salmon-color, burnished into long undulations of lustre, overspreads the shal- lower waves ; but a sober gray begins to steal in beneath the sunset rays, and will soon claim even the brilliant foreground for its own. Pile a few more fragments of drift-wood upon the fire in the ^=** A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 89 great chimney, little maiden, and then couch yourself before it, that I may have your glowing cliildhood as a foreground for those heaped relics of shipwreck and despair. You seem, in your scarlet boating-dress, Annie, like some bright tropic bird, alit for a moment beside that other bird of the tropics, flame. Thoreau thought that his temperament dated from an earlier period than the agricultural, because he preferred woodcraft to gardening ; and it is also pleasant to revert to the period when men had invented neither saws nor axes, but simply picked up their fuel in forests or on ocean-shores. Fire is a thing which comes so near us, and combines itself so closely with our life, that we enjoy it best when we work for it in some way, so that our fuel shall warm us twice, as the country people say, — once in the getting, and again in the burning. Yet no work seems to have more of the flavor of play in it than that of collecting drift-wood on some convenient beach, or than this boat-service of ours, Annie, when we go wandering from island to island in the harbor, and glide over sea-weed groves and the habitations of crabs, — or to the 90 OLDPORT DAYS. flowery and ruined bastions of Eose Island, — or to those caves at Coaster's Harbor where we played Victor Hugo, and were eaten up in fancy by a cuttle-fish. Then we voyaged, you remember, to that further cave, in the solid rock, just above low- water-mark, a cell unapproachable by land, and high enough for you to stand erect. There you wished to play Constance in Marmion, and to be walled up alive, if convenient ; but as it proved impracticable on that day, you helped me to secure some bits of drift-wood instead. Longer voyages brought waifs from remoter islands, — whose very names tell, perchance, the changing story of mariners long since wrecked, — isles baptized Patience and Prudence, Hope and Desjjair. And other relics bear witness of more distant beaches, and of those wrecks which still lie, sentinels of ruin, along Brentou's Point and Castle Hill. To collect drift-wood is like botanizing, and one soon learns to recognize the prevailing species, and to look with pleased eagerness for new. It is a tragic botany indeed, where, as in enchanted gardens, every specimen has a voice, and, as you take each from the ground, you expect from it a cry A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 91 like the mandrake's. And from what a garden it comes I As one walks round Brenton's Point after an autumnal storm, it seems as if tlie passionate heaving of the waves had brought wJiolly new tints to the surface, hues unseen even in dreams before, greens and purples impossible in serener days. These match the prevailing green and purple of the slate-cliffs ; and Nature in truth carries such fine fitnesses yet further. For, as we tread the deli- cate seaside turf, which makes the farthest point seem merely the land's last bequest of emerald to the ocean, we suddenly come upon curved lines of lustrous purple amid the grass, rows on rows of bright muscle-shells, regularly traced as if a child had played there, — the graceful high- water-mark of the ten-ible storm. It is the crowning fascination of the sea, the consummation of such might in such infantine delicacy. You may notice it again in the summer, when our bay is thronged for miles on miles witli inch-long jelly-fishes, — lovely creatures, in shape like disembodied gooseberries, and shot through and through in the sunlight with all manner of blue and golden glisten ings, and bearing tiny rows 92 OLDPOUT DAYS. of fringing oars that tremble like a baby's eyelids. There is less of gross substance in them than in any other created thing, — mere water and outline, destined to perish at a touch, but seemingly never touching, for they float secure, finding no conceiv- able cradle so soft as this awful sea. They are like melodies amid Beethoven's Symphonies, or like the songs that wander through Shakespeare, and that seem things too fragile to risk near Cleopatra's passion and Hamlet's woe. Thus tender is the touch of ocean ; and look, how around this piece of oaken timber, twisted and torn and furrowed, — its iron bolts snapped across as if bitten,. — there is yet twined a gay garland of ribbon-w^eed, bearing on its trailinfj stem a cluster of bright shells, like a mermaid's chatelaine. Thus adorned, we place it on the blaze. As night gathers without, the gale rises. It is a season of uneasy winds, and of strange, rainless storms, which perplex the fishermen, and indicate rough weather out at sea. As the house trembles and the windows rattle, we turn towards the fire with a feeling of safety. Representing the fiercest of all dangers, it yet expresses security and comfort. A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 93 Should a gale tear the roof from over our heads and show the black sky alone above us, we should not feel utterly homeless while this fire burned, — at least I can recall such a feeling of protection when once left suddenly roofless by night in one of the wild gorges of ^Mount Katahdiu. There is a positive demonstrative force in an open fire, which makes it your fit ally in a storm. Settled and obdurate cold may well be encountered by the quiet heat of an invisible furnace. But this liowl- ing wind might depress one's spirits, were it not met by a force as palpable, — the warm blast within answering to the cold blast without. The wide chimney then becomes the scene of contest : wind meets wind, sparks encounter rain-drops, they fight in the air like the visioned soldiers of Attila ; sometimes a daring drop penetrates, and dies, hissing, on the hearth ; and sometimes a troop of sparks may make a sortie from the chimney-top. I know not how else we can meet the elements by a defiance so magnificent as that from this open hearth ; and in burning drift-wood, especially, we turn against the enemy liis own ammunition. For on these fragments three elements have already 94 OLDPORT DAYS. done their work. "Water racked and strained the hapless ships, air liunted them, and they were thrown at last npon earth, the sternest of all. Now fire takes the shattered remnants, and makes them a means of comfort and defence. It has been pointed out by botanists, as one of Nature's most graceful retributions, that, in the building of the ship, the apparent balance of vege- table forces is reversed, and the herb becomes master of the tree, when the delicate, blue-eyed flax, taking the stately pine under its protection, stretches over it in cordage, or spreads in sails. But more graceful still is this further contest be- tween the great natural elements, Avhen this most fantastic and vanishing thing, this delicate and dancing flame, subdues all these huge vassals to its will, and, after earth and air and water have done their utmost, comes in to complete the task, and to be crowned as monarch. " The sea drinks the air," said Anacreou, " and the sun the sea." My fire is the child of the sun. I come back from every evening stroll to this gleaming blaze ; it is a domastic lamp, and shines for me everywhere. To my imagination it burns A PRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 95 as a central flame among these dark houses, and lights up the Avhole of this little fishing hamlet, humble suburb of the fashionable watering-place. I fancy that others too perceive the light, and that certain huge visitors are attracted, even when the storm keeps neighbors and friends at home. For the slightest presage of foul weather is sure to bring to yonder anchorage a dozen silent vessels, that glide up the harbor for refuge, and are heard but once, when tlie chain-cable rattles as it runs out, and the iron hand of the anchor grasps the rock. It always seems to me that these unwieldy crea- tures are gathered, not about the neighboring light- house only, but around our ingle-side. Welcome, ye great winged strangers, whose very names are unknown ! This hearth is comprehensive in its hospitalities ; it will accept from you either its fuel or its guests ; your mariners may warm themselves beside it, or your scattered timbers may warm me. Strange instincts might be supposed to tlirill and shudder in the ribs of ships that sail toward the beacon of a drift-wood fire. Morituri salutant. A single shock, and all tliat magnificent fabric may become mere fuel to prolong the flame. 06 OLDPORT DAYS. Here, beside the roaring ocean, this blaze repre- sents the only receptacle more vast than ocean. We say, " unstable as water." But there is noth- ing unstable about the flickering flame ; it is per- sistent and desperate, relentless in following its ends. It is the most tremendous physical force that man can use. " If drugs fail," said Hippoc- rates, " use the knife ; should the knife fail, use fire." Conquered countries were anciently given over to fire and sword : the latter could only kill, but the other could annihilate. See how thoroughly it does its work, even when domesticated : it takes up everything upon the hearth and leaves all clean. The Greek proverb says, that " the sea drinks up all the sins of the world." Save fire only, the sea is the most capacious of all things. But its task is left incomplete : it only hides its records, while fire destroys them. In the ISTorse Edda, when the gods try their games, they find themselves able to out-drink the ocean, but not to eat like the flame. Logi, or fire, licks up food and trencher and all. This chimney is more vora- cious than the sea. Give time enough, and all which yonder depths contain might pass through A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 97 this insatiable throat, leaving only a few ashes and the memory of a flickering shade, — pulvis et mnhra. We recognize this when we have any- thing to conceal Deep crimes are buried in earth, deeper are sunk in water, but the deepest of all are confided by trembling men to the profounder secrecy of flame. If every old chimney could nar- rate the fearful deeds whose last records it has cancelled, what sighs of undying passion would breathe from its dark summit, — what groans of guilt I Those lurid sparks that whirl over yonder house-top, tossed aloft as if fire itself could not contain them, may be the last embers of some written scroll, one rescued word of which might o suffice for the ruin of a household, and the crush- ing of many hearts. But this domestic hearth of ours holds only, besides its drift-wood, the peaceful records of the day, — its shreds and fragments and fallen leaves. As the ancients poured wine upon their flames, so I pour rose-leaves in libation ; and each morning con- tributes the faded petals of yesterday's wreaths. All our roses of this season have passed up this chimney in the blaze. Their 'delicate veins were 98 OLDPOKT DAYS. filled with all the summer's fire, and they returned to fire once more, — ashes to ashes, flame to flame. For holding, with Bettina, that every flower which is broken becomes immortal in the sacrifice, I deem it more fitting that their earthly part should die by a concentration of that burning element which would at any rate be in some form their ending; so they have their altar on this bright hearth. Let us pile up the fire anew with drift-wood, Annie. We can choose at random ; for our logs came from no single forest. It is considered an important branch of skill in the country to know the varieties of firewood, and to choose among them well. But to-night we ha^'e the whole Atlantic shore for our wood-pile, and the Gulf Stream for a teamster. Every foreign tree of rarest name may, for aught we know, send its treasures to our hearth. Logwood and satinwood may mingle with cedar and maple ; the old cellar- floors of this once princely town are of mahogany, and why not our fire ? I have a very indistinct impression what teak is ; but if it means some- thing black and impenetrable and nearly in- A DIUFT-WOOD FIRE. 99 destructible, then there is a piece of it, Annie, on the hearth at this moment. It must be owned, indeed, that timbers soaked long enough in salt-water seem almost to lose their capacity of being burnt. Perhaps it was for this reason that, in the ancient " lyke-wakes " of the North of England, a pinch of salt was placed upon the dead body, as a safeguard against purga- torial flames. Yet salt melts ice, and so represents heat, one would think ; and one can fancy that these fragments should be doubly inflammable, by their saline quality, and by the unmerciful rubbing whicli the waves have given them. I have noticed what warmth this churning process communicates to the clotted foam that lies in tremulous masses among the rocks, holding all the blue of ocean in its bubbles. After one's hands are chilled with the water, one can warm them in the foam. These drift-wood fragments are but the larger foam of shipwrecks. What strange comrades this flame brings to- gether ! As foreign sailors from remotest seas may sit and chat side by side, before some boarding- house fire in this seaport town, so these shapeless 100 OLDPORT DAYS. sticks, perhaps gathered from far wider wander- ings, now nestle together against the backlog, and converse in strange dialects as they burn. It is written in the Heetopades of Veeshnoo Sarma, that, " as two planks, floating on the surface of the mighty receptacle of tlie waters, meet, and having met are separated forever, so do beings in this life come together and presently are parted." Per- chance this chimney reunites the planks, at the last moment, as death must reunite friends. And with what wondrous voices these strayed wanderers talk to one another on the hearth ! They bewitch us by the mere fascination of tlieir lan- guage. Such a delicacy of intonation, yet such a volume of sound. The murmur of the surf is not so soft or so solemn. There are the merest hints and traceries of tones, — phantom voices, more re- mote from noise than anything which is noise ; and yet there is an undertone of roar, as from a thousand cities, the cities whence these wild voy- agers came. "Watch the decreasing sounds of a fire as it dies, — for it seems cruel to leave it, as we do, to die alone. I watched beside this hearth last night. As the fire sank down, the little voices A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 101 crrew stiller and more still, and at last there came only irregular beats, at varying intervals, as if from a heart tliat acted spasmodically, or as if it were measuring off by ticks the little remnant of time. Then it said, " Hush !" two or three times, and there came something so like a sob that it seemed human ; and then all was still. If these dying voices are so sweet and subtile, what legends must be held untold by yonder frag- ments that lie unconsumed ! Photography has familiarized us with the thought that every visible act, since the beginning of the world, has stamped itself upon surrounding surfaces, even if we have not yet skill to discern and hold the image. And especially, in looking on a liquid expanse, such as the ocean in calm, one is haunted with these fan- cies. I gaze into its depths, and wonder if no stray reflection has been imprisoned there, still ac- cessible to human eyes, of some scene of passion or despair it has witnessed ; as some maiden visitor at Holyrood Palace, looking in the ancient metallic mirror, might start at the thought that perchance some lineament of Mary Stuart may suddenly look out, in desolate and forgotten beauty, mingled with 102 OLDPORT DAYS. her own. And if the mere waters of the ocean, sa- tiate and wearied with tragedy as they must be, still keep for our fancy such records, how much more might we attribute a human consciousness to these shattered fragments, each seared by its own special grief. Yet while they are silent, I like to trace back for these component parts of my fire such brief histories as I share. This block, for instance, came from the large schooner which now lies at the end of Castle Hill Beach, bearing still aloft its broken masts and shattered rigging, and with its keel yet stanch, except that the stern-post is gone, — so that each tide sweeps in its green harvest of glossy kelp, and tlien tosses it in the hold like hay, desolately tenanting the place Avliich once sheltered men. The floating weed, so graceful in its own place, looks but dreary when thus confined. On that fear- fully cold ]\Ionday of last winter (January 8, 1866) when the mercury stood at -10°, even in this mild- est corner of New England, — this vessel was caught helplessly amid the ice that drifted out of the west passage of Narragausett Bay, before the fierce north-wind. They tried to beat into the A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 103 eastern entrance, but the scliooner seemed in sink- ing condition, the sails and helm were clogged with ice, and every rope, as an eye-witness told me, was as large as a man's body with frozen sleet. Twice they tacked across, making no progress ; and then, to save their lives, ran the vessel on the rocks and got ashore. After they had left her, a higher wave swept her oft*, and drifted her into a little cove, where she has ever since remained. There were twelve wrecks along this shore last winter, — more than during any season for a quarter of a century. I remember when the first of these lay in great fragments on Gra\es Point, a schooner having been stranded on Cormorant Rocks outside, and there broken in pieces by the surf. She had been split lengthwise, and one great side was leaning up against the sloping rock, bows on, like some wild sea-creature never before beheld of men, and come there but to die. So strong was this impression that when I afterwards saw men at work upon the wreck, tearing out the iron bolts and chains, it seemed like torturing the last moments of a living thing. At my next visit there was no person in sight ; another companion fragment had 104 OLDPORT DAYS. floated ashore, and the two lay peacefully beside the sailors' graves (which give the name to the point), as if they found comfort there. A little farther on there was a brig ashore and deserted. A fog came in from the sea ; and, as I sat by the graves, some unseen passing vessel struck eight bells for noon. For a moment I fancied that it came from the empty brig, — a ghostly call, to sum- mon phantom sailors. That smouldering brand, which has alternately gleamed and darkened for so many minutes, I brought from Price's Neck last winter, when the Brenton's Eeef Light-ship went ashore. Yon- der the oddly shaped vessel rides at anchor now, two miles from land, bearing her lanterns aloft at fore and main top. She parted her moor- ings by night, in the fearful storm of October 19, 1865 ; and I well remember, that, as I walked through the streets that wild evening, it seemed dangerous to be out of doors, and I tried to imagine wliat was going on at sea, while at that very moment the light-ship was driving on toward me in the darkness. It was thus that it hap- pened : — A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 105 There had been a lieavy gale from the southeast, which, after a few hours of lull, suddenly changed in the afternoon to the southwest, which is, on this coast, the prevailing direction. Beginning about three o'ch)ck, this new wind had risen almost to a hurricane by six, and held with equal fury till mid- night, after which it greatly diminished, though, when I visited the wreck next morning, it was hard to walk against the blast. The light-ship went adrift at eight in the evening ; the men let go another anchor, with forty fathoms of cable ; this parted also, but the cable dragged, as she drifted in, keeping the vessel's head to the wind, which was greatly to her advantage. The great waves took her over five lines of reef, on each of wliich her keel grazed or held for a time. She came ashore on Price's Neck at last, about eleven. It was utterly dark ; the sea broke high over the ship, even over her lanterns, and the crew could only guess that they were near tlie land by the sound of the surf. The captain was not on board, and the mate was in command, though his leg had been broken while holding the tiller. They could not hear each other's voices, and could 5* 106 OLDPORT DAYS. scarcely cling to the deck. There seemed every chance that the ship would go to pieces before daylight. At last one of the crew, named William Martin, a Scotchman, thinking, as he afterwards told me, of his wife and three children, and of the others on board wlio had families. — and that something must be done, and he might as well do it as anybody, — got a rope bound around his waist, and sprang overboard. I asked the mate next day whether he ordered Martin to do this, and he said, " No, he volunteered it. I would not have ordered him, for I would not have done it myself." What made the thing most remarkable was, that the man actually could not swim, and did not know how far off the shore was, but trusted to the waves to take him thither, — per- haps two hundred yards. His trust was repaid. Struggling in the mighty surf, he sometimes felt the rocks beneath his feet, sometimes bruised his hands against them. At any rate he got on shore alive, and, securing his rope, made his way over the moors to the town, and summoned his captain, who was asleep in his own house. They returned at once to the spot, found the line still A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 107 fast, and the rest of tlie crew, four in number, lowered the -whaleboat, and were pulled to shore by tlie rope, landing safely before daybreak. When I saw the vessel next morning, she lay in a little cove, stern on, not wholly out of water, — steady and upright as in a dry-dock, with no sign of serious injury, except that the rudder was gone. She did not seem like a wreck ; the men were the wrecks. As they lay among the rocks, bare or tattered, scarcely able to move, waiting for low tide to go on board the vessel, it was like a scene after a battle. They appeared too inert, poor fellows, to do anything but yearn toward the sun. When they changed j)osition for shelter, from time to time, they crept along the rocks, instead of walking. They were like the little floating sprays of sea-weed, when you take them from the water and they become a mere mass of pulp in your hand. Martin shared in the general exhaustion, and no wonder ; but he told his story very simply, and showed me where he had landed. The feat seemed to me then, and has always seemed, almost in- credible; even for an expert swimmer. He thus 108 OLDPOIIT DAYS. summed up the motives for his action : " I thought that God was first, and I was next, and if I did the best I could, no man could do more than that ; so I jumped overboard." It is pleas- ant to add, that, though a poor man, he utterly declined one of those small donations of money by which we Anglo-Saxons are wont clumsily to express our personal enthusiasms ; and I think I appreciated his whole action the more for its com- ing just at the close of a war during which so many had readily accepted their award of praise or pay for acts of less intrinsic daring than his. Stir the fire, Annie, with yonder broken frag- ment of a flag-staff; its truck is still remaining, though the flag is gone, and every nation might claim it. As you stir, the burning brands evince a remembrance of their sea-tost life, the sparks drift away like foam-flakes, the flames wave and flap like sails, and the wail of the chimney sings a second shipwreck. As the tiny scintillations gleam and scatter and vanish in the soot of the chimney- wall, instead of " There goes the parson, and there goes the clerk," it must be the captain and the crew we watch. A drift-wood fire should A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. 100 always have children to tend it ; for there is some- thing childlike about it, unlike the steadier glow of walnut logs. It has a coaxing, infantine way of playing with the oddly shaped bits of wood we give it, and of deserting one to caress with flicker- ing impulse another ; and at night, when it needs to be extinguished, it is as hard to put to rest as a nursery of children, for some bright little head is constantly springing up anew, from its pillow of ashes. And, in turn, what endless delight chil- dren find in the manipulation of a fire ! What a variety of playthings, too, in this fuel of ours ; such inexplicable pieces, treenails and tholepins, trucks and sheaves, the lid of a locker, and a broken handspike. These larger fragments are from spars and planks and knees. Some were dropped overboard in this quiet harbor ; others may have floated from Fayal or Hispaniola, Mo- zambique or Zanzibar. This eagle figure-head, chipped and battered, but still possessing highly aquiline features and a single eye, may have tangled its curved beak in the vast weed-beds of the Sargasso Sea, or dipped it in the Sea of ]\Iilk. Tell us your story, heroic but dilapidated 110 OLDPORT DAYS, bird ! and perhaps song or legend may find in it themes that shall be immortal. The eagle is silent, and I suspect, Annie, tliat lie is but a plain, home-bred fowl after all. But what shall we say to this piece of plank, hung with barnacles that look large enough for the fabled barnacle-goose to emerge from ? Observe this fragment a little. Another piece is secured to it, not neatly, as with proper tools, but clumsily, with many nails of different sizes, driven unevenly and witli their heads battered awry. Wedged clumsily in between these pieces, and secured by a supplementary nail, is a bit of broken rope. Let us touch that rope tenderly ; for who knows what despairing hands may last have clutched it when this rude raft was made ? It may, indeed, have been the handiwork of children, on the Pe- nobscot or the St. Mjiry's Eiver. But its condition betokens voyages yet longer; and it may just as well have come from the stranded " Golden Rule " on Pioncador Reef, — that picturesque shipwreck where (as a rescued woman told me) the eyes of the people in their despair seemed full of sublime resignation, so that there was no confusion or out- A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE. Ill cry, and even gamblers and harlots looked death in the face as nobly, for all that could be seen, as the saintly and the pure. Or who knows but it floated round Cape Horn, from that other wreck, on the Pacific shore, of the " Central America," where the rough miners found that there was room in the boats only for their wives and their gold ; and where, pushing the women off, with a few men to row them, the doomed husbands gave a cheer of courage as the ship went down. Here again is a piece of pine wood, cut in notches as for a tally, and with every seventh notch the longest ; these notches having been cut deeply at the beginning, and feebly afterwards, stopping abruptly before the end was reached. Wiio could have carved it ? Not a school-boy awaiting vacation, or a soldier expecting his dis- charge ; for then each tally would have been cut off, instead of added. iSTor could it be the squad of two soldiers who garrison Kose Island ; for their tour of duty lasts but a week. There are small barnacles and sea-weed too, which give the mysterious stick a sort of brevet antiquity. It has been long adrift, and these little barnacles, 112 OLDPORT DAYS. opening and closing daily their minute valves, have kept meanwhile their own register, and with their busy fringed fingers have gathered from the whole Atlantic that small share of its edible treas- ures which sufficed for them. Plainly this waif has had its experiences. It was Robinson Cru- soe's, Annie, depend upon it. We will save it from the flames, and wlien we establish our ma- rine museum, nothing save a veritable piece of the North Pole shall be held so valuable as tliis undoubted relic from Juan Fernandez. But the niglit deepens, and its reveries must end. "With the winter will pass away the winter- storms, and summer will bring its own more insid- ious perils. Tlien the drowsy old seaport will blaze into splendor, through saloon and avenue, amidst which many a bright career will end sud- denly and leave no sign. The ocean tries feebly to emulate the profounder tragedies of the shore. In the crowded halls of gay hotels, I see wrecks drifting hopelessly, dismasted and rudderless, to be stranded on hearts harder and more cruel than Brenton's Reef, yet hid in smiles falser than its fleecy foam. What is a mere forsaken ship, com- A DRIFT-WOOD FIRE/ 113 pared with stately houses from which those whom I first knew in their youth and beauty have since fled into midnight and despair ? But one last gleam upon our hearth lights up your innocent eyes, little Annie, and dispels the gathering shade. The flame dies down again, and you draw closer to my side. The pure moon looks in at the southern window, replacing the ruddier glow ; while tlie fading embers lisp and prattle to one another, like drowsy children, more and more faintly, till they fall asleep. AN AETIST'S CREATION. TT~rHEN I reached Keumure's house, one Au- ^ ' gust evening, it was rather a disappoint- ment to find that he and his charming Laura had absented themselves for twenty-four hours. I had not seen them together since their marriage ; my admiration for his varied genius and her unvarying grace was at its height, and I was really annoyed at the delay. My fair cousin, with her usual exact housekeeping, had prepared everything for her guest, and then bequeathed me, as she wrote, to Janet and baby Marian. It Avas a pleasant ar- rangement, for between baby Marian and me there existed a species of passion, I might almost say of betrothal, ever since that little three-year-old sunbeam had blessed my mother's house by linger- ing awhile in it, six months before. Still I went to bed disappointed, though the delightful windows of the chamber looked out upon the glimmering v.^*- AN arttist's creation. 115 bay, and tlie swinging lanterns at the yard-arms of the frigates shone like some softer constellation beneath the brilliant sky. The house was so close upon the water that the cool waves seemed to plash deliciously against its very basement ; and it was a comfort to think that, if there were no ade- quate human greetings that night, there would be plenty in the morning, since Marian would inevi- tably be pulling my eyelids apart before sunrise. It was scarcely dawn when I was roused by a little arm round my neck, and waked to think I had one of Eaphael's cherubs by my side. Fin- gers of waxen softness were ruthlessly at work upon my eyes, and the little form that met my touch felt lithe and elastic, like a Tcitten's limbs. There was just light enough to see the child, perched on the edge of the bed, her soft blue dressing-gown trailing over the white night-dress, while her black and long-fringed eyes shone through the dimness of morning. She yielded gladly to my grasp, and I could fondle again the silken hair, the velvety brunette cheek, the plump, cliildish shoulders. Yet sleep still half held me, and when ray cherub appeared to hold it a cheru- 116 OLDPOBT DATS. bic pxaddce to b^in the daj with a demand for Ihrety aneedole, I was iain drowsilv to suggest that gbe mi^A fiist teQ some stories to her doll With the siumj readiness that w^s a part of her n^nre, she stia^htwaj tamed to that yonng lady, — plain Susan HaBiday, with both cheeks patched, and eyes of different colors, — and soon discoursed both her and me into repose. When I waked again, it was to find the child conrerni^ with the morning star, which still diODe tinon^ the window, scarcely so lacent as her eye8,aiid bidding it go home to its mother, the son. An&thet lapse into dreams, and then a more rhid awakening, and she had my ear at last, and won sbory after story, requiting them with legends of her own yonth, ** almost a year ago," — how she was periloasly lost, for instance, in the small front yard, with a little playmate, early in the afternoon, and how they came and peeped into the window, and though aQ the world had forgotten them. Then the sweet Toice, distinct in its articnlaticMi as Laora's, went strayii^ off into wilder fancies, — a chaos of antobiograpfay and conjectore, like the kttas o( a war eorrespoadenl Yon would have AX ARTISTS CKEATIOX. 117 thought her little life had j-ielded more pangs and feare than might have sufficed for the diseoverr of the Xorth Pole ; but breakfast-time drevr near at lasU and Janet's honest voice \ras heard outside the door. I rather envied the good Sootoh\roman the pleasant task of polishing the smooth cheeks and combing the dishevelled silk; but when, a little later, the small maiden was riding down stairs' in my arms, I en\ied no one. At sight of the bread and milk, my chenib was transformed into a hungry human child, chiefly anxious to reach the lx>ttom of her porringer. I was with her a great deal that day. She gaw no manner of trouble : it was like having the charge of a floating butterfly, endowed with warm arms to clasp, and a silvery voice to prattle. I sent Janet out to sail, with the other sen-ants, by way of frolic, and Marian's perfect toorest home. I know not what triumph or despair may have come and gone through that wayside house since then, what jubilant guests may have entered, what lifeless form passed out. What anguish or what sin may have come between that woman and that child ; through what worlds they now wander, and whether separate or in each other's arms, — this is A SILU)OW. 219 all unknown. Fancy can picture other joys to ■which the first happiness was but the prelude, and, on the other hand, how easy to imagine some special heritage of human woe and call it theirs ! " I thouglit of times when Pain might be thy guest, Lord of tliy house and liospitality ; And Grief, uneasy lover, might not rest Save when he sat within the touch of thee." Xay, the foretaste of that changed fortune may have been present, even in the kiss. Who knows what absorbing emotion, besides love's immediate impulse, may have been uttered in that shadowy embrace ? There may have been some contrition for ill-temper or neglect, or some triumph over ruinous temptation, or some pledge of immortal patience, or some heart-breaking prophecy of be- reavement. It may have been simply an act of habitual tenderness, or it may have been the wild reaction toward a neglected duty; the renewed self-consecration of the saint, or the joy of the sinner that repenteth. No matter. She kissed the baby. The feeling of its soft flesh, the busy struggle of its little arms between her hands, the impatient pressure of its little feet against her 220 OLDPORT DAYS. knees, — these were the same, whatever the mood or circumstance beside. They did something to equalize joy and sorrow, honor and shame. Ma- ternal love is love, whether a woman be a wife or only a mother. Only a mother ! The happiness beneath that roof may, perhaps, have never reached so high a point as at that pre- cise moment of my passing. In the coarsest house- hold, the mother of a young child is placed on a sort of pedestal of care and tenderness, at least for a time. She resumes something of the sacredness and dignitv of the maiden. Coleridge ranks as the purest of human emotions that of a husbaod towards a wife who has a baby at her breast, — "a feeling how free from sensual desire, yet how dif- ferent from friendsliip ! " And to the true mother however cultivated, or however ignorant, this period of early parentage is happier than all else, in spite of its exhausting cares. In that delightful book, the " Letters " of Mrs. Richard Trench (mother of the well-known English writer), the most agreeable passage is perhaps that in which, after looking back upon a life spent in the most brilliant so- ciety of Europe, she gives the palm of happiness A SILU)OW. 221 to the time when she was a young mother. She writes to her god-daughter : " I believe it is the happiest time of any woman's life, who has affec- tionate feelings, and is blessed with healthy and well-disposed children. I know at least that neither the gayeties and boundless hopes of early life, nor the more grave pursuits and deeper affec- tions of later years, are by any means comparable in my recollection with the serene, yet lively pleasure of seeing my children playing on the grass, enjoying their little temperate supper, or repeating ' with holy look ' their simple prayers, and undressing for bed, growing prettier for every part of their dress they took off, and at last lying down, all freshness and love, in complete happi- ness, and an amiable contest for mamma's last kiss." That kiss welcomed the child into a world where joy predominates. The vast multitude of human beings enjoy existence and wish to live. They all have their earthly life under their own control. Some religions sanction suicide ; the Christian Scriptures nowhere explicitly forbid it; and yet it is a rare thing. Many persons sigh for death 222 OLDPORT DAYS. when it seems far off, but tlie desire vauislies wlien tlie boat upsets, or the locomotive runs off the track, or the measles set in. A wise physician once said to me : " I observe that every one wishes to go to heaven, but I observe that most people are willing to take a great deal of very disagree- able medicine first." The lives that one least envies — as of the Digger Indian or the outcast boy in the city — are yet sweet to the living. " They have only a pleasure like that of the brutes," we say with scorn. But what a racy and substantial pleasure is that ! The flashing speed of the swallow in the air, the cool play of the min- now in tlie water, the dance of twin butterflies round a thistle-blossom, the thundering gallop of the buffalo across the prairie, nay, the clumsy walk of the grizzly bear ; it were doubtless enough to reward existence, could we liave joy like such as these, and ask no more. This is the hearty physi- cal basis of animated life, and as step by step the savage creeps up to the possession of intellectual manhood, each advance brings. with it new sorrow and new joy, with the joy always in excess. There are many who will utterly disavow this A SHADOW. 223 creed that life is desirable in itself. A fair woman in a ball-room, exquisitely dressed, and possessed of all that wealth could give, once declared to me her belief — and I tliink honestly — that no per- son over thirty was consciously happy, or would wish to live, but for the fear of death. There could not even be pleasure in contemplating one's chil- dren, slie asserted, since they were living in such a world of sorrow. Asking the opinion, within half an hour, of another woman as fair and as favored by fortune, I found directly the opposite verdict. " For my part I can truly say," she answered, " that I enjoy every moment I live." The varieties of temperament and of physical condition will al- ways afford us these extremes ; but the truth lies between them, and most persons will endure many sorrows and still find life sweet. And the mother's kiss welcomes the child into a world where good predominates as well as joy. Wliat recreants must we be, in an age that has abolished slavery in America and popularized the governments of all Europe, if we doubt that the tendency of man is upward ! How mucli that the world calls selfishness is only generosity with 224 OLDPORT DAYS. narrow walls, — a too exclusive solicitude to inain- taiu a wife in luxury or make one's children rich ! In an audience of rough people a generous senti- ment always brings down the house. In the tumult of war both sides applaud an heroic deed. A courageous woman, who had traversed alone, on benevolent errands, the worst parts of Xew York told me that she never felt afraid except in the solitudes of the country ; wherever there was a crowd, she found a protector. A policeman of great experience once spoke to me with admiration of the fidelity of professional thieves to each other, and the risks they would run for the women whom they loved ; when " Bristol Bill " was arrested, he said, there was found upon the burglar a set of false keys, not quite finished, by which he would certainly, within twenty-four hours, have had his mistress out of jail. Parent-Duchatelet found al- ways the remains of modesty among the fallen women of Paris hospitals ; and Mayhew, amid the London outcasts, says that he thinks better of human nature everyday. Even among politicians, whom it is our American fashion to revile as the chief of sinners, there is less of evil than of good. A SHADOW. 225 In "Wilberforce's " Memoirs " there is an account of his having once asked Mr. Pitt whether his long experience as Prime Minister had made him think well or ill of his fellow-men. ^Ir. Pitt answered, " Well " ; and his successor, Lord Melbourne, being asked the same question, answered, after a little reflection, " My opinion is the same as that of Mr. Pitt." Let us have faith. It was a part of the vigor of the old Hebrew tradition to rejoice when a man- child was born into the world ; and the maturer strength of nobler ages should rejoice over a woman-child as well. Nothing human is wholly sad, until it is effete and dying out. AMiere there is life there is promise. " Vitality is always hope- ful," was the verdict of the most refined and clear- sighted woman who has yet explored the rough mining villages of the Eocky Mountains. There is apt to be a certain coarse virtue in rude health ; as the Germanic races were purest when least civ- ilized, and our American Indians did not unlearn chastity till they began to decay. But even where vigor and vice are found together, they still may hold a promise for the next generation. Out of 10» 226 OLDPORT DAYS. the strong cometh forth sweetness. Parisian wick- edness is not so discouraging merely because it is wicked, as from a suspicion that it is draining the life-blood of the nation. A mob of miners or of New York bullies may be uncomfortable neigh- bors, and may make a man of refinement hesitate whether to stop his ears or to feel for his revolver ; but they hold more promise for the coming gener- ations than the line which ends in Madame Bovary or the Yicomte de Camors. But behind that cottage curtain, at any rate, a new and prophetic life had begun. I cannot fore- tell that child's future, but I know something of its past. The boy may grow up into a criminal, the woman into an outcast, yet the baby was beloved. It came " not in utter nakedness." It found itself heir of the two prime essentials of existence, — life and love. Its first possession was a woman's kiss ; and in that heritage the most important need of its career was guaranteed. "An ounce of mother," says the Spanish proverb, " is worth a pound of clergy." Jean Paul says that in life every successive influence affects us less and less, so that the circumnavigator of the globe is A SHADOW, 227 less influenced by all the nations he has seen than by his nurse. Well may the child imbibe that i-everence for motherhood which is the first need of man. Where woman is most a slave, she is at least sacred to her son. The Turkish Sultan must prostrate himself at the door of his mother's apart- ments, and were he known to have insulted her, it would make his throne tremble. Among the savage African Touaricks, if two parents disagree, it is to the mother that the child's obedience belongs. Over the greater part of the earth's surface, the foremost figures in all temples are the Mother and Child. Christian and Buddhist nations, numbering together two thirds of the world's population, unite in this worship. Into the secrets of the ritual that baby in the window had already received initiation. And how much spiritual influence may in turn have gone forth from that little one ! The coarsest father gains a new impulse to labor from the mo- ment of his baby's birth ; he scarcely sees it when awake, and yet it is with him all the time. Every stroke he strikes is for his child. New social aims, new moral motives, come vaguely up to him. The 228 OLDPORT DAYS. London costermonger told May hew that he thought every man would like his son or daughter to have a better start in the world than his own. After all, there is no tonic like the affections. Philosophers express wonder that the divine laws should give to some young girl, almost a child, the custody of an immortal soul. But what instruction the baby brings to the mother ! She learns patience, self- control, endurance ; her very arm grows strong, so that she can hold the dear burden longer than the father can. She learns to understand character, too, by dealing with it. "'In training my first children," said a wise mother to me, " I thought that all were born just the same, and that I was wholly responsible for what they should become. I learned by degrees that each had a temperament of its own, which I must study before I could teach it." And thus, as the little ones grow older, their dawning instincts guide those of the parents ; their questions suggest new answers, and to have loved them is a liberal education. For the height of heights is love. The philoso- pher dries into a skeleton like that he investigates, unless love teaches him. He is blind among his A SHADOW. 229 microscopes, unless he sees in the humblest human soul a revelation that dwarfs all the world beside. While he grows gray in ignorance among his crucibles, every girlish mother is being illuminated by every kiss of her child. That house is so far sacred, which holds within its walls this new-born heir of eternity. But to dwell on these high mysteries would take us into depths beyond the present needs of mother or of infant, and it is better that the greater part of the baby-life should be that of an animated toy. Perhaps it is well for all of us that we should live mostly on the surfaces of things and should play with life, to avoid taking it too hard. In a nursery the youngest child is a little more than a doll, and the doll is a little less than a child. What spell does fancy weave on earth like that which the one of these small beings performs for the other ? This battered and tattered doll, this shapeless, featureless, possibly legless creature, whose mission it is to be dragged by one arm, or stood upon its head in the bathing-tub, until it finally reverts to tlie rag-bag whence it came, — what an affluence of breathing; life is thrown around 230 OLDPOET DAYS. it by one touch of dawning imagination I Its little mistress will find all joy unavailing without its sympathetic presence, will confide every emo- tion to its pen-and-ink ears, and will weep passion- ate tears if its extremely soiled person is pricked when its clothes are mended. What psychologist, what student of the human heart, has ever applied his subtile analysis to the emotions of a child toward her doll ? I read lately the charming autobiography of a little gill of eight years, written literally from her own dictation. Since " Pet Marjorie " I have seen no such actual self-revelation on the part of a child. In the course of her narration she describes, with great precision and correctness, the travels of tlie family through Europe in the preceding year, assigning usually the place of importance to her doll, who appears simply as " My Baby." Nothing can be more grave, more accurate, more serious than the whole history, but notliing in it seems quite so real and alive as the doll. "When we got to Nice, I was sick. The next morning the doctor came, and he said I had something that Avas very much like scarlet fever. Then I had Annie A SHADOW. 231 take care of baby, and keep her away, for I was afraid she would get the fever. She used to cry to come to me, but I knew it would n't be good for her." What firm judgment is here, what tenderness without weakness, what discreet motherhood ! When Christmas came, it appears that baby hung up her stocking with the rest. Her devoted parent had bought for her a slate with a real pencil. Others provided thimble and scissors and bodkin and a spool of thread, and a travelling-shawl with a strap, and a cap with tarletan ruffles. " I found baby with the cap on, early in the morning, and she was so pleased she almost jumped out of my arms." Thus in the midst of visits to the Coliseuna and St. Peter's, the drama of early affection goes always on. " I used to take her to hear the band, in tlie carriage, and she went everywhere I did." But the love of all dolls, as of other pets, must end with a tragedy, and here it comes. "The next place we went to was Lucerne. There was a lovely lake there, but I had a very sad time. One day I thought I 'd take baby down to breakfast, and, as I was going up stairs, my foot slipped and 232 OLDPORT DAYS. baby broke her head. And 0, I felt so bad ! and I cried out, and I ran up stairs to Annie, and mamma came, and 0, we were all so sorry ! And mamma said she thoudit I could cjet another head, but I said, ' It won't be tlie same baby.' And mamma said, maybe we could make it seem so." At this crisis the elder brother and sister de- parted for Mount Righi. "They were going to stay all niglit, and mamma and I stayed at home to take care of each other. I felt very bad about baby and about their going, too. After they went, mamma and I thought we would go to the little town and see what we could find.". After many difficulties, a waxen head was discovered. '•' Mam- ma bought it, and we took it liome and put it on baby ; but I said it was n't like my real baby, only it was better than having no child at all ! " This crushing bereavement, this reluctant ac- ceptance of a child by adoption, to fill the vacant heart, — how real and formidable is all this re- hearsal of the tragedies of maturer years ! I knew an instance in which the last impulse of ebbing life was such a gush of imaginary motherhood. A SHADOW. 233 A dear friend of mine, whose sweet charities prolong into a tliird generation the unbounded benevolence of old Isaac Hopper, used to go at Christmas-time with dolls and other gifts to tlie poor children on Eandall's Island. Passing the bed of a little girl whom the physician pronounced to be unconscious and dying, the kind visitor insisted on putting a doll into her arms. Instantly the eyes of the little invalid opened, and she pressed the gift eagerly to her heart, murmuring over it and caressing it. The matron afterwards wrote that the child died within two hours, wear- ing a happy face, and still clinging to her new- found treasure. And beginning with this transfer of all human associations to a doll, the child's life interfuses itself readily among all the affairs of the elders. In its presence, formality vanishes the most oppressive ceremonial is a little relieved when children enter. Their inlluence is pervasive and irresistible, like that of water, which adapts itself to any landscape, — always takes its place, welcome or unwelcome, — keeps its own level and seems always to have its natural and proper margin. 234 OLDPORT DAYS. Out of doors how children mingle with nature, and seem to begin just where birds and butterflies leave off! Leigh Hunt, with his delicate percep- tions, paints this well : " The voices of children seem as natural to the early morning as the voice of the birds. The suddenness, the lightness, the loudness, the sweet confusion, the sparkling gayety, seem alike in both. The sudden little jangle is now here and now there ; and now a single voice calls to another, and the boy is off like the bird." So Heine, with deeper thoughtfulness, noticed the " intimacy with the trees " of the little wood- gatherer in the Hartz Mountains ; soon the child whistled like a linnet, and the other birds all answered him ; then he disappeared in the thicket with his bare feet and his bundle of brushwood. " Children," thought Heine, " are younger than we, and can still remember the time when they were trees or birds, and can therefore understand and speak their language ; but we are grown old, and have too many cares, and too much jurisprudence and bad poetry in our heads." But why go to literature for a recognition of what one may see by opening one's eyes ? Before A SHADOW. 235 my window tliere is a pool, two rods square, that is haunted all winter by children, — clearing away the snow of many a storm, if need be, and mining downward till they strike the ice. I look this morning from the window, and the pond is bare. In a moment I happen to look again, and it is covered with a swarm of boys ; a great migrating flock has settled upon it, as if swooping down from parts unknown to scream and sport them- selves here. The air is full of their voices ; they have all tugged on their skates instantaneously, as it were by magic. Now they are in a confused cluster, now they sweep round and round in a circle, now it is broken into fragments and as quickly formed again ; games are improvised and abandoned ; there seems to be no plan or leader, but all do as they please, and yet somehow act in concert, and all chatter all the time. Now they have alighted, every one, upon the bank of snow that edges the pond, each scraping a little hollow in which to perch. Now every perch is vacant again, for they are all in motion ; each moment increases the jangle of shrill voices, — since a boy's outdoor whisper to his nearest crony is as if 236 OLDPORT DAYS. he was hailing a ship in the offing, — and what they are all saying can no more be made out than if tliey were a flock of gulls or blackbirds. I look away from the window once more, and when I glance out again there is not a boy in sight. They have whirled away like snowbirds, and the little pool sleeps motionless beneath the cheerful wintry sun. Who but must see how gradually the joyous life of the animal rises through childhood into man, — since the soaring gnats, the glancing fishes, the sliding seals are all represented in this mob of half-grown boyhood just released from school. If I were to choose among all gifts and qualities that which, on the whole, makes life pleasantest, I should select the love of children. No circum- stance can render this world wliolly a solitude to one who has that possession. It is a freemasonry. Wherever one goes, there are the little brethren and sisters of the mystic tie. No diversity of race or tongue makes much difference. A smile speaks the universal language. " If I value myself on anything," said the lonely Hawthorne, " it is on having a smile that children love." They are A SHADOW. 237 such prompt little beings ; they require so little prelude ; hearts are won in two minutes, at that frank period, and so long as you are true to them they will be true to you. They need no argu- ment, no bribery. They have a hearty appetite for gifts, no doubt, but it is not for these that they love the giver. Take the wealth • of the world and lavish it with counterfeited affection : I will win all the children's hearts away from you by empty-handed love. The gorgeous toys will dazzle them for an hour ; then their instincts M'ill revert to their natural friends. In visiting a house where there are children I do not like to take them presents : it is better to forego the pleasure of the giving than to divide the welcome between yourself and the gift. Let that follow after you are gone. It is an exaggerated compliment to women when we ascribe to them alone this natural sympathy with childhood. It is an individual, not a sexual trait, and is stronger in many men than in many women. It is nowhere better exliibited in litera- ture than where the happy Wilhelm Meister takes his boy by the hand, to lead him " into the free 238 OLDPORT DAYS, and lordly world." Such love is not universal among the other sex, though men, in that humility which so adorns their natures, keep up the pleasing fiction that it is. As a general rule any little girl feels some glimmerings of emotion towards any- thing that can pass for a doll, but it does not follow that, when grown older,. she will feel as ready an instinct toward every child. Try it. Point out to a woman some bundle of blue-and-white or white- and-scarlet in some one's arms at the next street corner. Ask her, " Do you love that baby ? " Not one woman in three will say promptly, " Yes." The others will hesitate, will bid you wait till they are nearer, till they can personally inspect the little thing and take an inventory of its traits ; it may be dirty, too ; it may be diseased. Ah ! but this is not to love children, and you might as well be a man. To love children is to love childhood, instinctively, at whatever distance, the first im- pulse being one of attraction, though it may be checked by later discoveries. Unless your heart commands at least as long a range as your eye, it is not worth much. The dearest saint in my cal- endar never entered a railway car that she did not A SHADOW. 239 look round for a baby, which, when discovered, must always be won at once into her arras. If it was dirty, she would have been glad to bathe it ; if ill, to heal it. It would not have seemed to her anything worthy the name of love, to seek only those who were wholesome and clean. Like the young girl in Holmes's most touching poem, she would have claimed as her own the outcast child whom nurses and physicians had abandoned. " ' Take her, dread Angel ! Break in love This bruised reed and make it thine ! ' No voice descended from above, But Avis answered, ' She is mine ! ' " When I think of the self-devotion which the human heart can contain — of those saintly souls that are in love with sorrow, and that yearn to shelter all weakness and all grief — it inspires an unspeakable confidence that there must also be an instinct of parentage beyond this human race, a heart of hearts, cor cordium. As we all crave something to protect, so we long to feel ourselves protected. We are all infants before the Infinite ; and as I turned from that cottage window to the resplendent sky, it was easy to fancy that mute 240 OLDPORT DAYS. embrace, that shadowy symbol of affection, expand- ing from the narrow lattice till it touched the stars, gathering every created soul into the arms of Immortal Love. FOOTPATHS. A LL round the shores of the island where I -^^ dwell there runs a winding path. It is prob- ably as old as the settlement of the country, and has been kept open with pertinacious fidelity by the fishermen whose right of way it represents. In some places, as between Fort Adams and Castle Hill, it exists in its primitive form, an irregular track above rough cliffs, whence you look down upon the entrance to the harbor and watch the white-sailed schooners that glide beneath. Else- where the high-road has usurped its place, and you have the privilege of the path without its charm. Along our eastern cliffs it runs for some miles in the rear of beautiful estates, whose owners have seized on it, and graded it, and gravelled it, and made stiles for it, and done for it everything that landscape-gardening could do, wliile leaving it a footpath still. You walk there with croquet 11 r 242 OLDPORT DAYS. and roses on the one side, and M'ith floating loons and wild ducks on the other. In remoter places the path grows wilder, and has ramifications striking boldly across the peninsula through rough moor- land and among great ledges of rock, where you may ramble for hours, out of sight of all but some sportsman with his gun, or some truant-boy with dripping water-lilies. There is always a charm to me in the inexplicable windings of these wayward tracks ; yet I like the path best where it is nearest the ocean. There, while looking upon blue sea and snowy sails and floating gulls, you may yet hear on the landward side the melodious and plaintive drawl of the meadow-lark, most patient of summer visitors, and, indeed, lingering on this island al- most the whole j^ear round. But who cares whither a footpath leads ? The charm is in the path itself, its promise of some- thing that the high-road cannot yield. Away from habitations, you know that the fisherman, the geolo- gist, the botanist may have been there, or that the cows have been driven home and that somewhere there are bars and a milk-pail. Even in the midst of houses, the path suggests school-children with 'footpaths. 243 their luncheon-baskets, or workmen seeking eagerly the noonday interval or the twilight rest. A foot- path cannot be quite spoiled, so long as it remains such ; you can make a road a mere avenue for fast horses or showy women, but this humbler track keeps its simplicity, and if a queen comes walking through it, she comes but as a village maid. On Sunday, when it is not etiquette for our fashion- ables to drive, but only to walk along the cliffs, they seem to wear a more innocent and wholesome aspect in that novel .position ; I have seen a fine lady pause under such circumstances and pick a wild-flower ; she knew how to do it. A footpath has its own character, while that of the high-road is imposed upon it by those who dwell beside it or pass over it ; indeed, roads become picturesque only when they are called lanes and make believe that they are but paths. The very irregularity of a footpath makes half its charm. So much of loitering and indolence and impulse have gone to its formation, that all which is stiff and military has been left out. I observed that the very dikes of the Southern rice plantations did not succeed in being rectilinear. 244 OLDPOKT DAYS. though the general effect was that of Tennyson's " flowery squares." Even the country road, which is but an enlarged footpath, is never quite straight, as Thoreau long since observed, noting it with his surveyor's eye. I read in his unpublished diary : " The law that plants the rushes in waving lines along the edge of a pond, and that curves the pond shore itself, incessantly beats against the straight fences and highways of men, and makes them con- form to the line of beauty at last." It is this un- intentional adaptation that makes a footpath so indestructible. Instead of striking across the nat- ural lines, it conforms to them, nestles into the hollow, skirts the precipice, avoids the morass. An unconscious landscape-gardener, it seeks the most convenient course, never doubting that grace will follow. Mitchell, at his " Edgewood " farm, wish- ing to decide on the most picturesque avenue to his front door, ordered a heavy load of stone to be hauled across the field, and bade the driver seek the easiest grades, at whatever cost of curvature. Tlie avenue followed the path so made. When a footpath falls thus unobtrusively into its place, all natural forces seem to sympathize FOOTPATHS. 245 with it, and help it to fulfil its destiny. Once make a well-defined track through a wood, and presently the overflowing brooks seak it for a chan- nel, the obstructed winds draw through it, the fox and woodchuck travel by it, the catbird and robin build near it, the bee and swallow make a high- road of its convenient thoroughfare. In winter the first snows mark it with a white line ; as you wan- der through you hear the blue-jay's cry, and see the hurrying flight of the sparrow ; the graceful outlines of the leafless bushes are revealed, and the clinging bird's-nests, "leaves that do not fall," give happy memories of summer homes. Thus Xature meets man half-way. The paths of the wild forest and of the rural neighborhood are not at all the same thing ; indeed, a " spotted trail," marked only by the woodman's axe-marks on the trees, is not a footpath. Thoreau, wlio is sometimes foolishly accused of having sought to be a mere savage, un- derstood this distinction well. " A man changes by his presence," he says in his unpublished diary, " the very nature of the trees. The poet's is not a logger's path, but a woodman's, — the logger and pioneer have preceded him, and banished decaying 246 OLDPOET DAYS. wood and the spongy mosses which feed on it, and built hearths and humanized nature for him. For a permanent residence, there can be no comparison between this and the wilderness. Our woods are sylvan, and their inhabitants woodsmen and rus- tics ; that is, a sdvarjgia and its inhabitants sal- vages." What Thoreau loved, like all men of healthy minds, was the occasional experience of untamed wildness. " I love to see occasionally," he adds, " a man from whom the usnca (lichen) hangs as gracefully as from a spruce." Footpaths bring us nearer both to nature and to man. No high-road, not even a lane, conducts to the deeper recesses of the wood, where you hear the wood-thrush. There are a thousand concealed fitnesses in nature, rhymed correspondences of bird and blossom, for which you must seek through hidden paths ; as when you come upon some black brook so palisaded with cardinal-flowers as to seem " a stream of sunsets " ; or trace its shadowy course till it spreads into some forest- pool, above which that rare and patrician in- sect, the Agrion dragon-fly, flits and hovers per- petually, as if the darkness and the cool . had FOOTPATHS. 247 taken wings. The dark brown pellucid water sleeps between banks of softest moss ; white stars of twin-flowers creep close to the brink, delicate sprays of dewberry trail over it, and the emerald tips of drooping leaves forever tantalize the still surface. Above these the slender, dark-blue insect waves his dusky wings, like a liberated ripple of the brook, and takes the few stray sunbeams on ^ his lustrous form. Whence came the correspond- ence between this beautiful shy creature and the moist, dark nooks, shot through with stray and transitory sunlight, where it dwells ? The anal- ogy is as unmistakable as that between the scorch- ing heats of summer and the shrill cry of the cicada. They suggest questions that no savant can answer, mysteries that wait, like Goethe's secret of morphology, till a sufficient poet can be born. And we, meanwhile, stand helpless in their presence, as one waits beside the telegrapliic wire, while it hums and vibrates, charged with all fascinating secrets, above the heads of a wondering world. It is by the presence of pathways on the earth that we know it to be the habitation of man ; in 248 OLDPORT DAYS. the barest desert, they open to us a common humanity. It is the absence of these that rend- ers us so lonely on the ocean, and makes us glad to watch even the track of our own vessel. But on the mountain-top, how eagerly we trace out the " road that brings places together," as Schiller says. It is the first thing we look for ; till we have found it, each scattered village has an isolated and churl- ish look, but the glimpse of a furlong of road puts them all in friendly relations. The narrower the path, the more domestic and familiar it seems. The railroad may represent the capitalist or the government; the high-road indicates wliat the surveyor or the county commissioners thought best ; but the footpath shows what the people needed. Its associations are with beauty and humble life, — the boy with his dog, the little girl with her fagots, the pedler with his pack; cheery companions they are or ought to be. " Jog on, jog on the footpath way, And merrily hent the stile-a : A merry heart goes all the day, Your sad one tires in a mile-a." The footpath takes you across the farms and FOOTPATHS. 249 behind the houses ; you are admitted to the family- secrets and form a personal acquaintance. Even if you take the wrong path, it only leads you " across-lots " to some man ploughing, or some old woman picking berries, — perhaps a very spicy acquaintance, whom the road would never have brought to light. If you are led astray in the woods, that only teaches you to observe landmarks more closely, or to leave straws and stakes for tokens, like a gypsy's patteran, to show the ways already traversed. There is a healthy vigor in the mind of the boy who would like of all things to be lost in the woods, to build a fire out of doors, and sleep under a tree or in a haystack. Civiliza- tion is tiresome and enfeebling, unless we occa- sionally give it the relish of a little outlawry, and approach, in imagination at least, the zest of a gypsy life. The records of pedestrian journeys, the Wanderjahre and memoirs of good-for-noth- ings, and all the delightful German forest litera- ture, — these belong to the footpath side of our nature. The passage I best remember in all Bayard Taylor's travels is the ecstasy of his Thiiringian forester, who said : " I recall the time 11* 250 OLDPORT DAYS. when just a sunny morning made me so happy that I did not know what to do with myself. One day in spring, as I went through the woods and saw the shadows of the young leaves upon the moss, and smelt the buds of the firs and larches, and thought to myself, ' All thy life is to be spent in the splendid forest,' I actually threw myself down and rolled in the grass like a dog, over and over, crazy with joy." It is the charm of pedestrian journeys that they convert the grandest avenues to footpaths. Through them alone we gain intimate knowledge of the people, and of nature, and indeed of ourselves. It is easy to hurry too fast for our best reflections, which, as the old monk said of perfection, must be sought not by flying, but by walking, "Pcrfec- tionis via non j^'^'/'volanda scd pe?'«m&M/«7i