Class r3 S2^ Book I H 3 ^ GlpgMJJ'. CQFSKIGHT DEPOSUl HISTORY OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. •♦• ^H* ^ BY ADOLPHUS M. HART. Gaint Conia, £iXo.: PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE BY A. M. HART. 1852. Entered according to Act of Congress, mtne year 1852, by A. M. HART, in the Clerks office of the District Court of Missouri. STEKEOTYPED AT THE ST. LOUIS STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY BY A. P. LADEW & CO. Printed by T. W. Ustick. Ctf^ \ PREFICE. There being no work of the same compass, in the Eng- lish language, devoted to this interesting branch of History, and it being especially intended for the use of Academies and schools, the author might have dispensed viriththe ne- cessity of furnishing a preface to make the general reader acquainted with the character and object of the publication. He deems it necessary, however, to remark, that the fol- lowing pages comprise an abstract of all that has been writ- ten in the books and manuscripts that are extant, relating to the early history of this part of the American Continent. The subject is one, which will no doubt be hereafter more fully developed, as' the works of other writers are brought to light. In the mean time he has been obliged to rely chiefly on those sources of information, which are found in the scarce French works, that have been published on this subject, as well as in a few of the manuscripts of the ear- ly discoverers of the valley of the Missisippi, to which he has been permitted to have access. St. Louis, February, 1852. Adolpiius M. Haet. HISTORY OF THE ISCOVERY OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI: HISTORY OF THE DISCOVEEY OF THE VALLEY OE THE MISSISSIPPI. There are many historical associations, which cluster around the ancient denizens of Canada, in their efforts to colonize this section of the American Continent, and to rescue it from the savage tribes, who wandered in its pathless deserts. Canada was the gateway, through \vhich the pioneers of civilization entered, to disclose to the world the rich and exhaustless treasures of the West, or rather it may be likened to the portal of a mansion, through which admission was gained to the inner cham- bers, ornamented with every production of nature, and disclosing to the view, in their gaudy array, pictures, which had never been dreamt of, in the wildest efforts of the human imagination. The poor and ignoble Colonist, who emigrated in the seventeenth century, from the hills and valleys of his native country, with his axe in 7 8 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY his hand, and his gun on his shoulder, to clear the forest and drive away the red-man from those paths, which had been familiar to him from his infancy, exhibits to the view of the philanthropist of the present day, an exam- ple of courage and energy, of fortitude amidst danger, and of heroism in his trials, which marks not the course of the modern adventurer. Changeable as are the cir- cumstances of human life, the Canadian colonist remains at the present day, as unchanged as ever. No longer is he required to wage an exterminating warfare, against the aboriginal tribes of the country, no longer does he hunt " the wild beast fi'om his lair,''' but now w^ith his bible in one hand and his axe in the other, religion goes hand in hand with civilization, and wherever one sees the boundaries of the primeval forest receding from his view^, there he observes the glittering spires of the Parish Church, reflecting the rays of the sun in the firmament of heaven, and betokening the soothing influence of re- ligion, over a moral and an industrious people. Nor can we withhold our meed of praise from those French missionaries, who took their departure from Que- bec, and travelled amongst all the Indian tribes, from Hudson's Bay, on the one hand, to the countries along the shores of the Mississippi, on the other. History has commemorated in bright and glowing colors, whatever OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 9 events transpired, during the march of the Crusaders to rescue the Holy land from the power of the Saracen, and here the valiant v^arrior and hero was accompanied by armed hosts, bent on achieving their object and having the means to do so ; but with the missionary who stepped beyond the bounds of civilization, and wandered through trackless deserts, (his only compass, the blazeed bark of the pine-tree ; his only food, the fortuitous product of the chase,) history has not done justice to the noble philanthropy, by which they were animated, nor to their ardent devotion for the progress of science and religion, amongst the benighted nations of the earth. The Cross was the emblem of both the Crusader and the mission- ary, but there must have been something sad and touch- ing, in the effect, which this religious emblem produced on the minds of the Savages, in the midst of the sombre and silent forests of the New World, when it could dis- arm their fierce heart-s and render them sensible to the liveliest feelings of emotion. There must be something soothing in rehgion, when it could mollify the wild pas- sions of man, in the savage state, and make him succumb to its influences. It was owing to the existence of these feelings, that the French missionary was able to estab- lish those friendly relations, which were afterwards en- tertained towards him, by the denizens of the forest. 10 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY The religious doctrines which he inculcated, contributed to draw closer the ties, which connected him wdth his neophytes. Hence the facilities, which he had to pene- trate from one cabin to another, from one nation to ano- ther, even in countries the most distant. Whether w^e regard their efforts, as connected Vv-ith the cause of sci- ence or religion, or as tending to develope to the inhabi- tants of Europe an example of energy and activity in the cause of human civilization, the French missionary of the seventeenth century will always be an object of in- terest to the student of American history, and will al- ways be considered, as having contributed his share in the regeneration of the aboriginal tribes of this Conti- nent, from the galling chains of superstition and igno- rance, by which they were surrounded. The warriors and statesmen of the reign of Louis the Fourteenth fiule into insignificance, when put in comparison, with what the genius of a Colbert and a Talon planned, or what the energy and activity of an Allouez and a Marquette accomplished. "Do you not know," said the interpreter of an Indian tribe to these missionaries, "do you not know," said he, " that these distant nations never spare strangers, that the wars, which they carry on, infest their frontiers with hordes of robbers ; that the grand river (meaning the Mississippi,) abounds in monsters, OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 11 who devour men and animals, and that the excessive heat there causes death." " We know that," said they, *' we know all, but by the decree of Providence, we have been appointed, as humble missionaries, in the ser- vice of God, to disseminate His Holy doctrines, amongst countless tribes, in the deserts of America, and with His will, we shall do our duly." Long before what is now known, as "the West" was dis- covered, several mis^ionaries had penetrated beyond the hunting grounds of the Ottawas and the Abenakies, and had established themselves, along the borders of Lake Huron. The Fathers Breboeuf, Daniel, Jogues, Raim- bault and several other members of their order, had es- tablished villages along the shores of that Lake, amongst others. Saint Joseph, Saint Michael, Saint Ignace and Sainte Marie. The latter, placed at the outlet of Lake Huron into Lake Erie, was for a long time, the central point of the various missions, in that distant part of the country. Later, in the year 1671, the scattered tribes of the Hurons, fatigued of wandering from country to country, fixed themselves at Machilimackinac,* a place * The name of this locality is derived from a small Island form- erly celebrated in those Countries, from the heio;ht of its banks, which might be seen, at a distance of twelve miles. It is situated at the jimction of Lakes Huron, Michigan and Superior. 12 HISTORY OF THE VAL2.EY situated on the shores of Lake Superior. This was the first establishment, founded by an European, in the State of Michigan. The Indians who were found therej re- ceived from the French, the name of '^ Sauteurs,'' or " Leapers," on account of their proximity to the Falls of Sainte Marie, known as the " Sault Sainte Marie J' These Indians belonged to the Algonquin Tribe. In the space of thirteen years, (from 1634 to 1647,) this extensive territory was visited by eighteen French missionaries, besides others attached to their ministry, who, animated by zeal in the cause of civilization, lent their services to their clerical brethren, in order to reclaim these savages from the depths of ignorance and supersti- tion into which they had cast themselves. The Five Nations, comprising the Iroquois, one of the fiercest tribes that inhabited those countries, were located to the north of Cataraqui, between the River Ottawa and Lake Ontario, but nearer the latter, and the travellei^ had to pursue their route across that part of the country, which was watered by the tributaries of the Ottawa, the river Akuanagusin, marked on the old charts, being one of those tributaries. At that period, the South of Lake Erie, beyond Buffalo was almost unknown to either the voyageurs or the missionaries. It might be interesting to particularize those sections, on the borders of Lake OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 13 Erie or Oswego, (as it is marked on an old chart, in the possession of the writer,) which were then inhabited by the Indian tribes, but the geographers of those days in Europe do not seem to be very remarkable for accuracy in fixing the localities of Indian settlements. Fort San- doski, (Sandusky) now the harbour, where is the termi- nation of the Railroad, connecting Lake Erie with the Ohio, is marked on this map, and the euphonious appel- lations of Tuscarora, Mingos, Kittawing, Schohorage, Fort Mohican and the Cross of Holfway, need only be mentioned, as indicating those parts of the Western States, now teeming with millions of human beings, devoted to the arts of agriculture and commerce, and supplying the world with the products of a soil, which a bounteous Providence has given them, to promote the prosperity and happiness of their fellow-men. In the year 1640, the Fathers Chaumonot and Breboeuf, completed the survey of the valley of the Saint Lawrence, from the foot of Lake Superior to the Ocean. About this period the two missionaries Charles Raimbault and Isaac Jogues left Canada, to visit Lake Huron, and after a pleasant voyage, in which they were struck with the picturesque- ness of the scenery along the shores, and amongst the islands of Lake Huron, they arrived in seventeen days at Sault Sainte Marie, where they met with a friendly 2 14 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY reception from about two thousand Indians, assembled there. As they advanced on their journey, the bounda- ries of the American Continent seemed to recede from them, and they learnt the names of numerous Indian tribes, who, it was said, inhabited the South and West, and amongst others, the " Sioux," whose hunting grounds were situated at a distance of several leagues from Lake Superior. They heard also, of several tribes of warri- ors, who lived by the products of the soil, but whose race and languages were unknown to them. — "Thus," observes an American author, "from the religious zeal of the French, a cross was erected on the borders of Sault Ste Marie, and on the confines of Lake Superior, from whence they saw the lands of the Sioux, in the valley of the Mississippi, five years, before Elliott of New England had addressed even a single word to the Indians, who were but six miles from the harbor of Boston." It may be said, that at this period (1646), the safety of the French possessions in America, depended chiefly on the efforts of the missionaries to preserve peace, which they succeeded in doing with all the neighboring Indian tribes, with the exception of the Iroquois. The small French Colony, on the banks of the Saint Law- rence, situated at such an immense distance from the OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 15 mother country, with limited resources, and scarcely food to eat would have been annihilated, had it not have been for the friendly alliance, which these missionaries had been able to contract with the native tribes. The Five Nations had already boasted, that they would soon drive Montmagny^ and the French to the sea, from whence they came. But the bravery and the courage of these men, who, with the breviary hanging around their necks, and the Cross in their hands, penetrated the innermost recesses of the forest, gave these people a lofty idea of the power and the resources of the nation, to which they belonged. There they w^ere, from the shores of Hudson's Bay, to the gulf of Saint Lawrence and the forests of Michigan, engaged day and night, in the ac- complishment of their high and lofty purposes, anima- ting, encouraging and rewarding those, who were dis- posed to be friendly with them, and intimidating those, whose hostility they were menaced with. Brought up to a life of strict austerity, accustomed to that self-de- nial, which was enjoined by the sect, to which they be- longed, the terrors of a violent death, at the hands of ruthless savages could not deter them from fulfilling the solemn trust, whiqh had devolved upon them, and that * Governor of New France or Canada. 16 HISTORY OP THE VALLEV very confidence which they had in the holiness of their cause, enabled them the more readily to accomplish their duty. Providence smiled benignantly on their efforts, for had it not been that the tribes, whose alliance was courted by the French, feared the hostility of the Iro- quois, in all probability they would have rejected the overtures of the missionaries and preferred war to peace. In the year 1659, (as is related in the narrative of the Missionaries), two young voyageurs, or travellers, led by curiosity and the spirit of adventure, joined an Al- gonquin tribe, and spent the winter on the shores of Lake Superior. With their eyes fixed on the immense solitudes of the West, and wondering what people in- habited those forests, they heard with avidity the glow- ing accounts^ by the Huron tribe, of those " Sioux", war- riors and they resolved to visit them. They met on their route with scattered tribes, w^ho had been dispersed by the Iroquois, and they at length arrived in the coun- try of the "Sioux," who, to their surprise, tendered to them the hand of fellowship. They were a numerous tribe, being divided into forty companies, and their man- ners, whilst they were unlike those of the Algonquins and Hurons, were calculated to impress the minds of the travellers with a favorable opinion of them. The Historian of New France, states, "that they had an OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 17 excellent disposition, treated their prisoners with less cruelty than other nations, and had some knowledge of the existence of a Divinity," These two intrepid ad- venturers returned to Quebec, in 1660, escorted by sixty Algonquin canoes and Canadian boats, laden with furs and peltries. They confirmed the accounts which two other Frenchmen, who had gone four years before, as far as Lake Michigan, brought back with them, of the numerous tribes, who wandered in those parts, and of the Kristinos, " whose cabins were raised high ^nougli to enable them to see the Great Lakes." In the year 1660, Father Mesnard went with the Al- gonquins to preach the Gospel to the Ottawas and other tribes, on the shores of Lake Superior. He remained about eight months, in a bay which he called Sainte The- resa, probably the bay of Kiwina, on the south side of the Lake, where he subsisted for some time, on acorns and the fruit of wild plants. Invited hence by the Hu- rons, he took his departure for the bay of Cha-gouia- migong or Saint Esprit, on the western side of the Lake, whither the Iroquois did not resort, on account of the distance and the scarcity of provisions. Whilst Mes- nard's compagnon de voyage, (fellow-traveller,) was oc- cupied in repairing the canoe, he went into the woods; and aevjer xe-appeared. This Priest had a great reputa?- 18 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY tion amongst the savages, for the sanctity of his clerical office, and a few years afterwards, his soutane (a gar- ment worn by Priests,) and his breviary were found amongst the " Sioux," who preserved them as relics, and held them in great veneration. The Indians gener- ally were remarkable for their carefulness in preserving whatever belonged to these faithful missionaries, for four or five years after the death of the Fathers Breboeuf and Gamier, whom the Iroquois assassinated, a mission- ary found in the possession of those barbarians a testa- ment and a prayer-book, which had belonged to them. The old chroniclers, such as Charlevoix, Champlain and others, do not mention, that they preserved any other articles, belonging to the persons they murdered, but the books they had with them. These untutored savages regarded these books in the light of their better spirits, by whose directions these missionaries had been led on- wards, in the paths of usefulness they were following. We have thus far traced the early discoveries in the West, which did not at the period we mentioned (1660) extend beyond the hunting grounds of the " Sioux." But vague suspicions were then entertained of the ex- tent of the country, or the existence of a great River to the West, and the accounts which they received from the Sioux were so uncertain, that there w^as little in- OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 19 ducement for renewed exertions. However, we are about reaching a period (1665) when the spirit of adven- ture was again in the ascendant, amongst the old French Colonists of America, and when their progress in making discoveries in the West is to be regarded with increased interest. Hitherto we have been narrating the attempts of a few voyageurs and missionaries, to penetrate the depths of the American forest, and when we consider the almost insurmountable obstacles, which they encoun- tered and the melancholy fate which many of them met with, at the hands of their ruthless enemies, we cannot withhold from them, our meed of praise at the magna- nimity they displayed and the heroism they manifested. But at this period, it pleased Divine Providence to bring other actors on the scenes, other men, who with all the self-devotion and courage, which were found in those who had preceded them, combined qualities, which suited them better for the task they had to perform. Previ- ously to the year 1665, it was religious zeal, which prompted men to risk their lives, in exploring the wild- erness, the propagation of their faith, and the know- ledge of God, were surely objects holy enough, to engage their attention, but now, to these powerful motives was joined the love of science and the desire to enlighten Europeans, as to the extent of the American Continent 20 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY and the resources and capabilities of this extensive country. It was in this year, that Father Allouez, a man who may be justly regarded as the pioneer amongst the discoverers of the West, combining great mental en- ergy, with a steadfastness of purpose, for which he was remarkable, was sent from Canada to explore the regions about Lake Superior. As he approached that vast In- land Sea, and observed the Islands, which dotted its surface, the fertility of its shores, and the gorgeousness and picturesqueness of its scenery, there was something in it dazzling to his imagination. He gazed with won- der at the numerous objects, which struck his attention, and to a mind bent on the pursuits of science, they were doubly interesting to him. To his zeal for religion, and untiring exertions in the cause of human civilization, are we indebted for the first Christian Chapel, which was erected in the solitudes of the West. After a short sojourn at Sainte Theresa, he arrived at Cha-gouia-mi- gong, or Saint Esprit, which had been visited by Father Mesnard in 1660. Here, in what is now known as the northern part of Wisconsin, at a spot, which was not far from the source of the Mississippi, was raised the first Temple in the Western wilderness, in which prayers were offered up, by the humble missionaries of God, to give them strength and confidence in their holy under- OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 21 takings, and to vouchsafe to them His protection in the numerous trials they had to undergo. Father Allouez preached in the Algonquin language to twelve or fifteen tribes, who understood that idiom. His reputation spread abroad, and the warriors of differ- ent nations left their hunting grounds to visit the white- man. The Pouteouatamis, from the borders of Lake Michigan, the Outagamis and the Sakis from the deserts of the East, the Sioux from the West, the Kristinos from the swampy forests of the North, and the Illinois of the Prairies, all vied with each other in their eager- ness to see and hear the white-man, to learn his dis- course and admire his eloquence. It was on one of these occasions, that the Sioux informed Father Allouez, that they protected themselves from the inclemency of the weather, by covering their huts with the skins of wild animals, and that they inhabited vast prairies on the bor- ders of a great river, which they called " the Missis- sippi.'^ It was thus, that the French had the first idea of the existence of a great river, the discovery of which "was to immortalize Joliet and his companion. During the sojourn of Allouez in the country, he pur- sued his researches amongst the Indian tribes, towards the North, where he discovered the Nipissings, whom the fear of the Iroquois, had driven to that distant re- 22 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY gion. He entered into friendly communications with them, and after having travelled two thousand miles, in these extensive forests, suffering hunger, want and fa- tigue, he directed his steps homewards, overjoyed with the result of his expedition. To his discoveries, and the information, which he imparted to the French Gov- ernment, was the world indebted for the origin of that expedition, in which a French Priest and a Canadian merchant disclosed to the inhabitants of Europe the ex- istence of a river, which to geographers had been hith- erto unknown, and which flowing to the ocean, was destined to bear on its waters the products of a country, unequalled on the face of the globe, for its richness and fertility, and affording to the people of the old world, a home and an asylum, where they could end their days in peace and happiness. Historians of modern times have done justice to the energy and activity of Joliet and Marquette, and the people of these Western States have erected monuments to their memory, and named towns and villages, in honor of them, but do we not see the hand of Divine Provi- dence pointing to the spot, where was to be consumma- ted the regeneration of the human race, directing these hardy adventurers, as instruments in its service, to avail themselves of the time, and the occasion, which were OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 23 most favorable for the accomplishment of its wise pur- poses : never before, had the Indian tribes been brought to such a state of submission to their European neigh- bours, as they were at that period. Even the Iroquois, the fiercest of all the tribes, that wandered about the American forests, were on friendly terms with the neigh- bouring savages, and peace and unanimity seemed to reign in their councils. This was a most auspicious period for making further discoveries, and the French Govern- ment took advantage of it. Allouez, Marquette and Dablon made themselves more celebrated for their scientific discoveries, than for their services, in the cause of religion. The latter was the originator of an expedition in search of the Missis- sippi ; his curiosity had been excited by the glowing de- scriptions he had heard of the magnificence of the coun- try, bordering on its waters, and in 1669, he resolved to undertake the journey. But his apostolical labors hav- ing interfered with the execution of his design, we hear nothing of the result of this expedition, excepting that he reached a tract of country, which was not far off, from the source of the river. Between 1670 and 1672, Allouez and Dablon pursued their journey as far as Wisconsin and the northern part of the State of Illinois, visiting the Mascoutins, (sup- 24 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY posed to be fire worshippers,) the Kickapous, and the Outagamis, on the border of Fox river, (riviere aux Renards) which takes its source to the East of the Mis- sissippi. The brave and intrepid Dablon had resolved to penetrate, if possible, as far as the ocean, and endea- vour to seek out a passage to the countries beyond it. Hitherto, Canada had been governed by officers appoint- ed by the French government, under the name of Gover- nors and Intendants, some of whom had accepted the office, more from considerations of pecuniary interest, arising out of the profitable nature of the fur-trade, than from any other motive, but at this period such men as Colbert and Talon ruled the destinies of the New World, they were men whose minds imbued from their infancy, with a love of science and a desire for the progress of the hu- man race, who saw at once the advantages which would arise, if the discoveries in the West were pushed for- ward with energy. There were few men like Talon for enterprise and activity of mind. Shrewd, calcula- ting, and a close observer of what was occurring around him, he grasped at the idea of the glory, which awaited him, should he succeed in his endeavours. His adminis- tration of the government of the French Colonies in America would be crowned with success, if, whilst he was at the head of it, the wealth and commerce of his OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 2^ country could be increased by the discovery of the Mis- sissippi. These were objects dear to his heart, but there were others which were dearer to him. It was the desire to extend the bounds of civilization, to aid in the development of the resources of this vast country, to forward navigation and promote the scientific know- ledge of his fellow country-men. Under his administra- tion, commerce had revived, emigration had increased, and the Indian tribes had learned to respect the power and authority of the French government. Such was the character of the French Governor, un- der whose auspices the first expedition started from Quebec, which was successful in discovering the Missis- sippi. Some writers say, that Marquette was the origi- nator of the project, others attribute it to the genius and foresight of Talon, however that may be, Talon selec- ted Joliet, a merchant residing in Quebec, who had pre- viously travelled amongst the Ottawas, and a man of great experience, energy and activity, to accompany the French missionary in his voyage of discovery. They left Quebec in the year 1673, and reached Fox river in safety. They remained some time at Sainte Theresa, where they were received with every mark of distinction. They asked for two guides, and their request was read- ily granted. No other European had ever Avandered hi 26 HISTORY OP TKE. Ti5&LLEY that direction, beyond the precincts of the village. On the 10th June, 1673, they took their departure from Sainte Theresa, accompanied by live other Frenchmen and the two Indians, who acted as guides. They carried their bark canoes on their shouklers, to make the short Portage (a word in the French language, which sig- nifies a carrying place,) which separates- the source of Fox river from the river Wisconsin, which flows to the West. It was at this point, that the two guides, becoming alarmed at the danger of the enterprise, aban- doned their fellow-travellers and left them " in an un- know^n country, in the hands of Providence," floating down a river, in the midst of the profound solitude, which surrounded them. At the expiration of seven days, they entered the Mississippi, of which they had heard so much, and such w^as their joy at the dis- covery, that they fell down on their knees and thanked God, that he had brought them to their point of des- tination. A feeling of awe and solemnity came over them, as they sailed down that majestic river, and every step they took, they were struck Vrith the magnificence of the objects, which surrounded them. In the midst of the silent forests of the New World, with buoyant hopes, and hearts untrammelled by the cares and sorrows of more busy life, they proceeded on their journey, in OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 27 the expectation of soon finding an outlet to the ocean. Nor were they greeted at the commencement of their voyage, with the sight of a human being ; there was no sign of any habitation, nothing to indicate the probabil- ity of their vicinity to the abodes of man ; save the aqua- tic birds, that dipped their beaks in the waters, and the howl of some ferocious animal prowling for food, there was no indication of animal life. They had proceeded about sixty leagues, without meeting with any person, when all at once, they observed some footsteps on the sand, on the right bank of the riyer^ and afterwards, a footpath, leading to a prairie. Tkey paused, ere they incurred the risk of meeting with an unknown tribe, ia the midst of the forest. Yet they had a mission to ful- fil, an object to accomplish. The pause was of short duration. Joliet and Marquette hazarded the interview. Taking the foot-path, they walked six miles, when they reached a settlement on the river Moingona, or tke river des Moines of the French. They halted ;and cried ou,t with a loud voice. Four old men came forth from the village, bringing with them the calumet of peace ; they received the sti'angers with distinction, — ''We are Illi- nois," said they, " we are men, be welcome to our ca- bins." In the language of one of our most favored his- ^8 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY torians, " it was the first time that the soil of Iowa ^was trodden by the feet of white men." The Indians, who had heard of the French, had long desired their alliance, as they knew, they were the ene- mies of the Iroquois, who were about making predatory excursions in their own country. The latter had in- spired such a degree of ^terror in the breasts of all the Indian tribes, that the Illinois, like the others, courted the alliance of the French, who had been able to resist their aggressions and thwart their efforts to subdue the neighbouring tribes. Joliet and Marquette, with their companions having remained a few days the guests of this 'friendly people, and having accepted a grand feast, which had been prepared for them, took their departure very much to the regret of their new allies. The chief •of the tribe, followed by several hundred warriors, ac- companied them to the river-side, and as a memorial of 'their friendship, presented Marquette Avith a calumet, or- •namented with feathers of different colours, w^hich they .assured him would be a safe passport among all the neighbouring nations. Our hardy adventurers proceeded on their journey, and arrived in a short time at the junction of the Mis- souri (marked on the old charts "Pe/aYcTiom") with OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 29 the Mississippi ; they passed the Ohio, or la belle riviere, as it was afterwards called by the French, the borders of w^hich were then peopled by the Chouanons, or Chaunis. The aspect of the country was ^changed,; instead Q-f. ex- tensive prairies, they saw nothing but dense forests. They found also another race of men, whose language they were unacquainted with ; they had left the lands of the great Huron and Algonquin famihes, bounded by the Ohio to the north, and were now entering the huntincr grounds of the Mobilien tribe, of whom the Chickasas formed part. The Dahcotas, or the Sioux, inhabited the western borders of the Mississippi. Thus, the French required interpreters on both sides of the river, where two languages were spoken, differing from tho&e of the Hurons and Algonquins, with w:hose dialects they were acquainted. They continued to descend the Mississippi, until they reached Arkansas river, near the 33d degree of latitude, a tract of country, which, it is said, had been visited by the celebrated Spanish traveller, De Soto, The calumet, which had been presented to Joliet and Marquette, was very serviceable to them, as it was readily received by this barbarous people as an emblem of peace, and en- sured to our travellers a favorable reception wherever thev went. The Indians sent ten men to escort them tp 3* so HISTORY OF THE VALLEY the village of Arkansas, situated near the mouth of the river, where they were met by the Chief and other war- riors, who gave them shelter and food. What struck the attention of Joliet, was, that they appeared to be a richer tribe than the others they had encountered, and that they had with -them several implements — amongst others, steel axes, which they must have obtained in their forays irtto other settlements. He concluded they could not be at a very great distance from the Spaniards and the Bay of Mexico. The heat of the climate af- forded additional evidence of their being far to .the Southward ; they were in a country, where abundant rains supplied the want of snow, found in more noi^thern latitudes. Joliet and Marquette having discovered that the river Mississippi did not discharge itself into the Pa- cific, but took a Southerly course, and having been dis- appointed in not finding an outlet to the ocean, their provisions being scanty and with few persons to prose- cute their voyage, they resolved on returning and com- municating to the Government the result of their dis- coveries. They journeyed homewards by the Illinois river, and arrived safely at an Indian settlement, now the site of Chicago. In passing through this territory, now one of the most populous and thriving States in the West, they OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 31 were struck with its great natural advantages, with the fertiUty of its soil, the beauty of its scenery, and even with the plumage of its wild birds. Marquette, in his journal, w^hich has been preserved, says " they discov- ered the most fertile country in the world, watered by fine rivers, woods, filled with the choicest vinos and apple trees, extensive prairies, covered with the buffalo, the deer, w-ild fowl ofievery description, and eve?! parrots of a particular kind.^' Such w^as the rhapsody in which this discoverer of the Mississippi indulged, in his description of a country, which at the present day seems destined to occupy the proud position of being the gran- ary of America, which, for its agricultural capabilities and other resources, is the hav^en of .hope to thousands of the bonded slaves of the old world, and where are the homes and fire-sides of some of the best citizens that America possesses. All this country was ;then inhabited by the Miamis, the Mascouteas, or fire worshippers, the Pouteouato- mies and the Kikapous. Allouez and Dablon had al- ready visited a portion of it. On his return from the Mississippi, Marquette remained with the Miamis, to the north of the river Illinois. Joliet proceeded imme- diately to Quebec, to communicate the intelligence of the discovery to Talon, who, he found, had gone to 22 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY France. Marquette remained two years amongst the Miamis, and in the year 1675 took his departure for Mackina, at the head of Lake Michigan. On the jour- ney, he disembarked from his canoe at the outlet of a small river, on the Eastern side of the Lake, for the pur- pose of raising an altar and celebrating mass, after which, having requested his companions to wait for him a few minutes, they retired to a place at a short distance from him, and on their return >they found him dead. Like Mesnard and others who had preceded him, the discoverer of the Mississippi found his grave in the wilds of the West. He was buried in silence at the outskirts of a forest, near to the spot where he met with his death. History does not mention that France rewarded the exertions of its adventurous colonists by any signal mark of distinction. Joliet and his companions were suffered to remain in obscurity, but if their own coun- try neglected its faithful servants, the people of America have erected monuments to their memory in the magnifi- cent cities, towns and villages, which they have dotted over the surface of the country they discovered. Their works of art and their progress in science will forever distinguish that section of America, the early discovery of which was owing to the zeal of a French missionary and the intrepidity of a Canadian merchant. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 33 The news of the discovery of the Mississippi created a great sensation in the Colony. The boundaries of the American continent, comprising such" a vast extent of country were then known to extend towards the sea, and although they were satisfied as to the course which the Mississippi took, they did not doubt that they should find the ocean to the westward of the territories they had discovered. These researches had contributed to the glory of France, they had added lustre to the events of the reign of Louis the Fourteenth, the cause of sci- ence had been greatly promoted by the exertions of its navigators, further scope had been afforded to the studies of its geographers and naturalists, yet the dis- coveries were not complete. Until they had traced the course of the Mississippi, and had re-commenced the voy- age at the point w%ere Joliet and Marquette abandoned it, and were satisfied that the Mississippi flowed into the Gulf of Mexico, it could not be said that they had com- pleted their task, in the exploration of the great Ameri- can continent. In the year 1667, there emigrated from France to Canada, a young man by the name of Robert Cavalier de La Salle ; ambitious, intrepid and daring, he came to New France with a two-fold object in view, that of making a fortune and acquiring a brilliant reputation. 34 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY He had been educated by the Jesuits, under whose care he had been placed from his infancy. Brought up to that hfe of austerity and self-denial which was practiced by that religious order, having all the enthusiasm and courageousness for which they were remarkable, he wanted only the opportunity to distinguish himself and to prove to the world the indomitable courage with which he was possessed. With a cultivated mind and enlarged ideas, having a perfect knowledge of human nature, and being acquainted with the character, object and pursuits of the Indian tribes in alliance with France, La Salle was well qualified for the performance of the most arduous duty. He listened with attention to Jo- liet's account of his expedition to the Mississippi, his mind was entranced at the glowing descriptions of that traveller, his heart rebounded with joy at the prospect of the glory which awaited him, with the glance of au eye, he observed the immense field which should occupy his future labours, his plans were already formed, that project, on the success of which, he based his ideas of fortune and future reputation, and which he pursued w4th such indomitable energy and such incredible perse- verance, even to the day of his death. He had come to Canada with the intention of making discoveries in the North or West, and epdeavouring to OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 35 find out a passage to Japan or China, but being poor, and this enterprise requiring considerable means to ena- ble any person to undertake it, he remained for several years in a state of obscurity. At length his talents and energy struck the attention of the Count de Frontenac, and a new era was dawning upon him. Encouraged by Courcelles and Talon, on his arrival in Canada, he had established a small office [comptoir), where he dealt with the Indians, at a place situated about eight miles from Montreal, to which, it is supposed, the name of La Chine was given, in satirical allusion to the folly of his undertaking,, to discover a north-west passage to China. When the news of the discovery of the Mississippi reached Canada, La Salle was, as before mentioned, at Quebec. Availing himself of the excited state of the public mind, caused by this event, he com- municated his plans to the Count de Frontenac. He flattered himself, that in proceeding towards the source of the newly-discovered river, he might find a passage to the ocean ; at all events, the discovery of the outlet of the Mississippi would not be attended without glory and advantage to him. Desirous of availing himself, at the same time, of the opportunity it would afford him to extend his commercial engagements, he wished to be- come possessed of Fort Frontenac, an important place 36 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY of business in carrying on the fur trade. Strongly- recommended by his protector, the Count de Frontenac, he went to France : the Marquis de Seignelay, who had replaced his father, the great Colbert, as Minister of the Marine, received him well, and granted him all that he desired. The King of France conferred on him a patent of nobility, conceded to him Fort Frontenac, on con- dition that he should rebuild it in stone, and gave him permission to carry on his commercial pursuits, and con- tinue the discoveries, w^hich had been already commenced. This concession was equivalent to an exclusive grant to trade with the Five Nations, and it was highlv advanta- geous to La Salle. On the 14th July, 1678, La Salle, animated with lively hopes, and his heart filled with joy, took his de- parture from Rochelle, in France, bringing with him thirty men, mariners and workmen, anchors, sails and other equipments for the vessels, which he intended to build, to navigate the Lakes. On his arrival at Quebec, he left without loss of time for Cataraqui (now Kingston, in Canada West), taking goods with him to traffick with the Indians. He displayed his usual energy in preparing his outfit. As early as the 18th November, but four months since his departure from France, the first sloop which was ever seen on Lake Ontario sailed out of the OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 37 harbour of Cataraqui, with its sails spread to the breeze, laden with merchandize and the necessary materials to construct a fort and a vessel of larger size at Niagara, where he intended to establish another trading post for trafficking with the Indians. This first voyage on the waters of Lake Ontario was attended with success. When they arrived at the head of the Lake, the Indians were struck with astonishment at the appearance of the vessel, they gazed with admi- ration at its structure, its equipments, and the skilful manner in which it was navigated. Great as was their astonishment, it did not surpass that of the Europeans at the sight of the stupendous Cataract of Niagara ; they had heard from a distance the sound of its waters, rush- ing over a precipice of one hundred and sixty feet in height, and as they approached the Falls, they realized what they had never pictured in their imagination, they gazed with wonder at the sight of a river, rushing over such a precipice into the foaming abyss below, and they were startled at the view of this new feature in the scenery of the great Western World. La Salle caused the cargo of the sloop to be disem- barked and transported to the head of Lake Erie, where he commenced the construction of a fort and a vessel But v/hilst the savages observed the progress of the fort 4 38 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY towards its completion, they began to fear and to mur- mur. In order not to excite the hatred of these barba- rians, La Salle contented himself with converting it into a dwelling, surrounded by simple palisades, w^hich he intended to use for a store. In the winter, a workhouse was erected at some distance above the Falls, for the purpose of enabling him to complete the vessel of sixty tons, which he was about building. This work w^as ex- ecuted under the immediate superintendence of the Che- valier de Tonti, and as this nobleman was the first ar- chitect of a vessel to ply on the waters of Lake Erie, his name and services should not be forgotten. He had been recommended to La Salle by the Prince de Condi ; an Italian by birth, he had in his youth engaged in the Sicilian w^ars, and had the misfortune to lose one of his hands from the bursting of a shell, Avhich he supplied by an iron hand, which he usually covered with a glove. From this circumstance, the savages feared him a great deal, and gave him the appellation of the iron-arm M De Tonti. He ^vas very useful to La Salle, to w^hom he was always sincerely attached. There was a w^ork published under his name, on the History of Louisiana, which he afterwards disavowed. The activity of La Salle increased as the realization of his designs became the more probable. In the win- OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 39 ter, he sent De Tonti and the Franciscan Hennepin, since celebrated for the publication of his travels in America, as an embassy to the Iroquois, whom he wished to enlist in favor of his enterprise ; he himself afterwards visited them, as w^ell as many other nations, wdth whom he washed to establish commercial relations. La Salle was the first European who founded Nia- gara, and built a vessel on Lake Erie. He called it the "Griffon," after the name of a ravenous wild bird, common in that country. The vessel was launched in the river Niagara, in the year 1679, in the midst of gen- eral rejoicings amongst the French, the discharge of ar- tillery, and the singing of the Te Deum, not how^ever without the expression of the superstitious belief of the savages, who, on seeing the vessel sailing on the w^ater exclaimed " Otkon^^ " Otkon^'^ significant of their as- tonishment at what the French could do, and implying that they were " extraordinary spirits." On the seventh of August of the same year, the Griffon, armed wdth seven pieces of artillery, laden with arms, food and merchandize, and carrying thirty-two men and two missionaries, entered Lake Erie, in the midst of the thunder of the artillery and musketry, the sound of w^hich w^as re-echoed back from the long ranges of forest, on the borders of the Lake. La Salle, 40 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY triumphing over the envy of his enemies and the almost insurmountable obstacles to his enterprise, arrived safely, after a few days' passage, at Detroit, the sight of which was pleasing to his companions. They were delighted with the appearance of the country, and stood for hours admiring the beauty of the scenery, in this favorite lo- cality. "Those," says Hennepin, " who will have the happiness to possess at a future day, the lands of this agreeable and fertile country, will be under lasting obli- gations to those travellers, who first showed them the way and crossed over Lake Erie, after a hundred leagues of dangerous navigation." The words of this intelli- gent traveller have become true, the people of America owe a debt of the deepest gratitude to all, who were instrumental in discovering this fertile country, and res- cuing it from the aboriginal tribes, who first occupied it. The normal occupiers of the soil were at first repulsed by the genius and the energy of their French invaders, it was afterwards left to the valour and achievements of American soldiers to expel them from their strongholds, in order to make way for that progressive civilization, which Providence had ordained should take place in the wilds of the West. On the 23d of August, La Salle after passing through a small Lake, opposite Detroit, to which he gave the OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 41 name of St. Clair, entered Lake Huron and arrived in five days at Michilimackinac, having been exposed to a violent hurricane, on the voyage. On his arrival at this trading-post, the Indians ran away from fright, on see- ing the vessel on the water, carrying its large white sails, and approaching towards them ; when they heard the noise of the cannon, it was with difficulty they could be restrained from launching forth into the most violent expressions of terror and consternation. The French Chief, dressed in a scarlet mantle, orna- mented with gold lace, and followed by a guard of armed men, disembarked from the Griifon, to hear h'^b mass celebrated in the chapel of the Ottawas; he was re- ceived with every mark of distinction, and the Indians, in a short time, became reconciled to the strangers and joined in rendering them homage. The Griffon proceeded on its voyage, and in the early part of the month of September, cast anchor in the Bay des Puans, on the western shore of Lake Michigan. This was the destination of the travellers, so far as they could proceed by water, and make use of their vessel. La Salle had come to this trading post, to collect the furs, which had been brought here from the interior, and having laden the Griffon with them, he despatched her for Niagara, with the " richest cargo that had yet been 4* 42 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY borne, on the waters of Lake Erie." The Griffon sailed on the 18th of September and was never afterwards heard of. The loss amounted to not less than fifty or sixty thousand francs, and was seriously felt by La Salle, who had intended to dispose of these furs and dis- charge his pecuniary obligations in Canada. La Salle, after the departure of his vessel, continued his route as far as the village of Saint Joseph, on the borders of Lake Michigan, whither, according to his di- rections, the Griffon was to return, after its arrival from Niagara. He was accompanied by several men of dif- ferent trades, with arms and merchandize. Having reached this village, he erected a house and fort in its neighbourhood, for the safety of his effects, and also to serve as a retreat for his men. He gave it the name of Fort Miami. This fortification was raised on the sum- mit of a hill in the form of a triangle, watered on two sides by a river known as the Miami,* and defended on the other, by a deep ravine. He carefully surveyed the entry of the river, in the expectation of the return of his vessel, on the safety of which, depended in a great measure, the success of his enterprise and the probability • There were several small streams, marked on the old Charts, to which the name of Miami was given. The writer believes this to have been the river Chicago. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 43 of his speedily entering on the prosecution of his dis- coveries. He sent two experienced men to Machilimack- inac to pilot it up the Lake, but having waited a con- siderable time, and hearing no accounts, he began to appi'ehend that some accident had happened to her. Although he was disconcerted at this unexpected delay, the winter being near at hand, he resolved on making an excursion amongst the Illinois, and leaving ten men to guard the fort, he left, accompanied by De Tonti, Hennepin, with two missionaries and about thirty fol- lowers. He followed the course of the river known then as the Miami, and after considerable fatigue and danger, arrived towards the end of December, in an In- dian village, situated on the borders of the river Illinois, in that section of the country, which at the present day, bears that name. The tribe was absent on the hison chase, and the village completely deserted. The French descended the river and did not meet with the Illinois Indians, until they arrived at Lake Peoria, called Pimiteoni by Hennepin, where there was a nu- merous assemblage of them. These savages, being of a quiet and peaceable disposition, received them with generous hospitality and rubbed their legs, (according to the custom of the tribe, with strangers, who had 44 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY come from a distance) with bear's grease and the grease of wild bulls, which they considered had a wonderful effect in restoring activity to limbs that had become tor- pid, from a long march in the forest. La Salle made them presents and contracted a friendly alliance with them. It was, with great pleasure, that that nation un- derstood, that the French had come to establish colonies in their territory. Like the Hurons, they were exposed to the invasions of the Iroquois ; the French would there- fore be powerful allies, to resist with them the encroach- ments of their artful and relentless enemies, whilst in their turn. La Salle could reckon on them, as his best and most faithful friends. Thus an alliance was pro- posed and accepted between these untutored savages and their European brethren, which had the most salutary consequences, and was as lasting, as any which they were able to contract with these roving savages, in the American forest. The Illinois made their cabins in a peculiar manner, they were constructed of the bark of trees, doubled and sewed together to make them more durable. They were of large stature, strong, robust, skilful in the use of the bow and arrow, but some French wTiters represent them as a wandering, idle people, having no courage, guided by no moral re- OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 45 straints, and without any respect for their Chiefs. They were not acquainted with the use of fire-arms, when the French first came amongst them. Already, La Salle's men began to murmur and said, that as they had heard no news of the Griffon, that vessel must have been lost, many of them became dis- couraged and six deserted during the night. His under- taking, which at the commencement was begun under such favorable auspices, was now threatened with an un- toward result. What was he to do ? For some time he had met with almost insurmountable obstacles, his men were deserting him, and others who remained were only induced to do so, by the promise of their return to Can- ada in the spring, should circumstances not be more fa- vorable to them. In this emergency, and in order to occupy the minds of the men and arouse them from the state of lethargy, into which they had thrown them- selves, he resolved on employing them, in the erection of a Fort, on a height of land, which he found at a short distance from the Lake, and which he named Fort " Crevecoeur," or the Fort of the Broken-heart, to in- dicate his evil destiny and the anguish and remorse, un- der which his mind laboured. There is a spot, w^hich bears also this name in the State of Missouri, it may have probably been the scene of other disasters to some 46 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY of these hardy adventurers, for if they did not leave their bones to bleach on the sands of the forest, at least many of them returned broken-hearted to their homes, after having endured all the pangs of want and misery, within the recesses of this newly-discovered country. La Salle gave orders for the construction of a boat to descend the Mississippi, and whilst the men were oc- cupied in completing these works, becoming impatient at hearing no news of the Griffon, and being in want of materials to construct his boat, he adopted the almost desperate resolution of returning on foot to Fort Fron- tenac, a distance of twelve or fifteen hundred miles, in order to procure the means of prosecuting his voyage. Before his departure, he instructed Hennepin when he reached the Mississippi, to ascend that river, as high as possible, towards its source, and examine the tract of country to the North, and after having given the com- mand of the Fort to De Tonti, he himself commenced his long journey for Cataraqui, on the second of March, 1680, armed with a musket, and accompanied by four Frenchmen and an Indian.* * Charlevoix, in following the description given under the name of De Tonti, has fallen into several errors, respecting La Salle's expedi- tion to the River Illinois, which may be easily detected. Hennepin, an ocular witness, is the best authority in these matters, corroborated OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 47 Hennepin had left Fort Crevecoeur, on the 29th of February ; he descended the Illinois river, as far as the Mississippi, travelled about the country, and afterwards ascended the river, as high as the Falls of Saint An* thony, and fell into the hands of the Sioux. During his captivity, these barbarians amused themselves, in making him write several words of their language, which he had begun to study. They said it was only putting black upon white, and when they saw him con- sult the vocabulary, which he had written of the terms of their peculiar language, they remarked amongst them- selves, ''that white thing must be a spirit, as it teaches him to understand all that we say.'' It is a singular fact, but one, which we see recorded on the pages of al- most every work, on the aboriginal tribes of America, that whatever appeared to them, as out of the ordinary course of things, they immediately attributed it to the agency of a spirit, thus testifying to their belief in su- as many of his statements are, by the Letters and relations of Father Zenobe Mambre. See his " Premier etablissement de la For, DANS LA NouvELLE FRANCE." Many English writers, who follow Charlevoix, have been incorrect in their descriptions of this voyage. The description as given in the text, approaches nearest towards the correct one. 48 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY pernatural agency, and possibly, as some may suppose, in the existence of a Divinity. At the expiration of several months, the savages per- mitted the three French captives to return amongst their companions, after exacting a promise from them, that they should come back the following year. One of the chiefs traced the route, which they should follow on a piece of bark, and this map, says Hennepin, was as useful to them, as if they had had a compass to guide them in their travels. They reached the mission at Lake Michigan by the river Wisconsin, which flows into the Mississippi and Fox river, which runs to the East- ward. Such was the expedition of Hennepin, who was the first traveller, who ventured as high up the river, as the Falls of Saint Anthony, and was the first to discover that the Missouri was a large river, running through that tract of country which now bears its name. On his return, as he approached the river Wisconsin, where it joins the Mississippi, he was astonished to meet with a number of traders, conducted by a man of the name of De Luth, who had been travelling for some time, in that distant region. Whilst Hennepin was exploring the Upper Mississippi, OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 49 La Salle's affairs grew worse at Crevecoeur, where De Tonti was in command. But in order to understand the nature of the difficulties which surrounded him^ and the almost insurmountable obstacles he had to contend with, we must take a glance at his position in Canada, where his enemies were at work to undermine his projects. Some English writers, in describing La Salle's charac- ter, have been guilty of imputing the most sordid mo- tives to him, in prosecuting his discoveries, but cotem- poraneous French writers have done justice to him, in believing, that he was actuated by a love of science and a desire to promote the amelioration of his race. On his arrival in Canada, as I have already remarked, without fortune, but with great ambition and the strong- est recommendations to persons in authority, whose friendship he cultivated, he very soon became an object of special favour with many who were acquainted with him, whilst his projects, connected with the discovery and colonization of the country, being looked upon with disfavor by others, and especially by the traders, (fraitans,) excited their envy and jealousy. They thought, that the exclusive grant, which La Salle had obtained from the Count de Frontenac, would interfere with their business and prevent them from trading in furs, in the West, and they availed themselves of every 5 so HISTORY OF THE VALLEY occasion that presented itself, to thwart his projects. There were two classes of persons, whose enmity he had incurred, the merchants and the coureurs de bois, or small traders, who travelled in the woods, to deal with the Indians. Whilst he was at Crevecoeur, on the Illinois, awaiting news of the safe arrival of the Grif- fon, his creditors in Cataraqui seized every thing he had left behind him, in payment of his debts, and thus in- jured his credit with those persons, who might have been of service to him, and on the other hand, the coureurs de hoisy or small traders, were doing every thing in their powder to predispose the savages against him, and to in- duce his men to desert from his employment, so that his enterprise might fail.* They excited the Iroquois and Miamis to take up arms against the Illinois, his allies, and lost no opportunity to injure him in the estimation of * From the works of Le Clerc and Zenobe Mambre, two French authors of that period. " This enterprise, which ought to have been sustained by all those persons, who were inclined to act for the Glory of God and the ser- vice of the King, was almost frustrated by the bad feelings which they had created in the minds of the Hurons,the Ottawa s of the Isles, and neighbouring nations, with whom La Salle had dealings. He found the fifteen men, whom he had sent in the Spring of 1679, to Crevecoeur, predisposed against him and seduced from his service ; a part of his property was dissipated, and De Tonti, far from being able to deal OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 51 the other tribes. Nothing could equal the activity of these traders; they hated La Salle in consequence of the monopoly of the fur trade, which the Count de Fronte- nac had granted to him, and were determined, if possible to drive him out of the country. They w^ere constantly at his heels, or to use the language of the old French writers, Us le suivaient a la piste, they secretly insinu- ated to the savages the most serious charges against him, and interposed every obstacle against the accomplishment of his designs. To this opposition in the interior of the country, were united the intrigues of the English, who were beginning to regard with a jealous eye, the discov- eries and spirit of aggrandizement of the French, in the West ; they therefore sent secret embassies to encourage the Iroquois to declare war against their French allies, in the valley of the Mississippi. Such were the disadvantages under which LaSalle la- boured, and it is not surprising that having to contend against such numerous and powerful foes, he was unable to execute but a part of the plans, he had at first contem- satisf actorily with the neighbouring tribes, was very much inclined to doubt their fidelity." Other writers give different versions of De Tonti's conduct, but how- ever their statements may differ, there can be no do ibt, that La Salle's affairs at Crevecoeur, were at this period, far from being in a satisfac- tory condition. 52 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY plated ; it was quite enough to be obliged to overcome the obstacles^ which everywhere surrounded him in push- ing his discoveries in the West, he w^as totally unpre- pared for the opposition he met with in a quarter, where he least expected it. However, De Tonti, who had been placed in charge of Fort Crevecoeur, lost no time in visiting the encamp- ment of the Illinois and assuring himself of their friendly assistance. Having been informed, that the Iroquois wished to join the Miamis in an attack on them, he has- tened to instruct his new allies, in the use of fire-arms, so that they might be on a footing of equality with these nations, amongst whom musketry had been lately intro- duced. He also show^ed them the manner of fortifying their position, by erecting palisades, and built a Fort, on a rock, two hundred feet in height, protected by a river at its base. H-e was occupied with these labors, w^hen nearly all the men, whom he had left at Fort Crevecoeur, be- comins: disheartened at the unfavorable turn which mat- ters had taken, robbed the ammunitions and stores and deserted. There was no longer room for doubt, La Salle's en- emies had succeeded inarming the five nations, who ap- peared on a sudden, in the month of September 1680, in the territory occupied by the Illinois and threw that OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 53 weak and peaceable people into the greatest consternation. This invasion exposed the French to eonsitlerable danger. De Tonti hastened to interfere, and a truce was effected, but the Iroquois, observing the fear into which tliey had thrown the Illinois, did not allow it to be of long dura- tion : they committed the most frightful ravages, dug up their dead, devastated their fields, and destroyed their habitations. The Illinois retreated beyond the Missis- sippi, roamed over the forest in scattered bands, in order to evade the vigilance of the Iroquois, and left the French, in the midst of their enemies. De Tonti, havinof with him but five men rmd two Recollets,* resolved to aban- don the country. The remnants of this small colony left Fort Crevecoeur, in a bark canoe, without provisions and depending on the chase for food, during their journey homewards. Whilst they were descending the north side of Lake Michigan, La Salle was proceeding along the south shore, with a reinforcement of men, and materials for the con- struction of his vessel. He^ therefore, found no person at the Fort, which he had established on the river Illinois. This made him lose another year, which he spent in trav- elling amongst the neighbouring tribes ; he visited a great • An order of Priesthood. 54 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY number of the savages, amongst others, the Outagamis, and the Miamis, whom he succeeded in drawmg away from their alliance wuth the five nations, who, it seems, after the departure of De Tonti, had driven a part of the Illinois Indians, amongst the Osage tribe, heyond the Mississippi. He afterwards returned .to Cataraqui and Montreal, to put his aifairs in order, which needed all his attention. He had suffered considerable losses. * However, he succeeded in maMno- a settlement with his creditors, to w^hom he gave permission to carry on trade in those immense possessions which had been granted to him by the Count de Frontenac, and received from them * A vessel laden with twenty two theusand livres worth of goods BufFered shipwreck, in the gulf of Saint Lawrence-; several bark ca- nees ascending the Saint Lawrence, from Montreal to Fort Frontenac v^ve losl in the rapids. He said, that with the exception of the Count de Frontenac, it seemed to him, that all Canada had conspired against his enterprise;; that they had seduced his men, whom he had brought with him from France, of whom part had run away from him with his goods, through New Holland, and that with regard to theCanadians, who had come with him, that they had found means to disgust them, and detach them from his service. " In all his misfortunes, " says a missionary, " I have never remarked in him the slightest change, al- ways appearing perfectly calm and self-possessed, and I observed, he was more resolved than ever, to continue his work and prosecute his discoveries." OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 55 in return, further advances to prosecute his discoveries. He abandoned the extensive plan he had projected, of es- tablishing forts and colonies, at the different points on his route, towards the sea. Apprehensive of further embar- rassments, he even gave up the idea of constructing a ves- sel and availed himself of the Indian bark canoes, to pro- ceed on his voyage. He took his departure accompanied by De Tonti, and Father Mambre, twenty-four Frenchmen, and eighteen savages of the Wolf and Abenaquis tribes, the bravest in America, and reached the Mississippi, on the 6th of Feb- ruary 1682. Like Marquette, he followed the course of the great river, without stopping to survey the adjoining country. He was enchanted with the mildness of the climate and the beauty of the scenery along the shores of the Missis- sippi, that feeling of sadness which had before subdued him, gradually wore off, and as his prospects became brighter, his ideas of fortune and future greatness again returned to him. He saw the Arkansas and other tribes, visited by Marquette : and as he drew near the South, met with a number of other nations, such as the Chica- sas, the Taensas, the Chactas, and the Natchez, rendered so celebrated by the writings of Chateaubriand, and other travellers. Being obliged to stop several times, he did 56 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY not arrive at the outlet of the river, until the ninth of April, when he first saw the Ocean, spreading its w^ide waters around that beautifjil country, rendered so pleas- ing by its warm, tropical climate. Like Marquette, and the other travellers, who had preceded him, he gave vent to the liveliest feelings of emotion, a cry of enthusiasm and of triumph was wrung from his heart, at length he had reached the point of his destination, the object of his most anxious desires for years had been attained, he stood on that soil, w^hich he claimed as a noble conquest for his country. He solemnly took possession of that part of the valley of the Mississippi for France, and gave it the name of Louisiana, in honor of Louis the Fourteenth, of which New Orleans, the capital, w^as founded by one of the countrymen of La Salle. Thus the discovery of the Mississippi was completed by the French, from the Falls of Saint Anthony to the sea, a distance of more than eighteen hundred miles. La Salle then retraced his steps and despatched Mam- bre to France, to render an account to the King of the result of the voyage. This Franciscan monk embarked on board of a vessel, w'hich had been sent from France to Canada to brino; back the Count de Frontenac, and which sailed from Quebec, on the seventeenth of Novem- ber. La Salle himself remained the following summer, OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 57 and winter, amongst the Illinois, and in the vicinity of Lake Michicran to form new establishments and trade with the Indians. Having afterwards heard of the evil disposition towards him of the new Governor M. de la Barre, he resolved to go to France, to counteract the ef- fects of the report which that functionary had sent to the Government, relatively to his discoveries in the West. De la Barre had written to the Ministry, that it was ow- ing to the imprudence of La Salle, that war had been de- clared by the Five nations against the French, and that the Colony might be attacked, before he had time to place it in a state of defence ; he wrote again after the discovery of the outlet of the Mississippi, that Mambre, who had just arrived in Quebec, to go to Europe, would not communicate anything to him about La Salle's ex- pedition, that he did not believe, that much faith could be attached to what the Franciscan said, and that La Salle himself appeared to have ulterior designs in view, which could not meet with their approval, that he was in the vicinity of the Bay of Lake Michigan, with about twenty vagabonds, French and savages, where he set his Sovereign at defiance, pillaged and robbed the people of his nation, exposed them to the incursions of the Iroquois, and made use of all this violence, under the pretext, that "SB HISTORY OF THE VALLEY he alone was entitled to the right to trade with the In- dians, in the countries, which he had discovered. From these false representations, made by the Gover- nor to the French Ministry, followed by the seizure of Forts Frontenac and St. Louis in Illinois, La Salle left Quebec, in the month of November 1683, to repair to France, for the purpose of laying his case before the French Ministry and proving his fidelity to the Crown. La Salle's arrival in France was most opportune. It was at the period, when Louis the Fourteenth, was at the height of his glory, and was acknowledged as the most powerful Prince in Christendom. The Conqueror of com- bined Europe, he had dictated terms to the vanquished, at the Congress of Nimegue, in 1678. Everything seem- ed to favor the designs of this ambitious monarch. The discovery of the Mississippi lent additional interest to the events of his reign, and whilst he rejoiced at the glory, which he had acquired in arms, he was not insensible to that, which he had gained, as being the Monarch, under whose reign, La Salle had been able to do so much for the promotion of science. It was not, therefore, surprising, that La Salle's enemies were thwarted in their designs to injure him, and that he himself was received with great fa- vor, by his sovereign, as being the discoverer of the out- OF TIIZ MISSISSIPPI. 59 let of the Mississippi, and the one, who had procured for him this new acquisition of territory. Although Colbert had descended to the grave, the im- pulse which he had given to commerce, to industry and colonization had survived him, and the French people learnt with a feeling of pride, of the extension of territory in the interior of America. M. de Seignelai, (Colbert's successor) after having held a conference with our trav- eller, whom he had with a great deal of interest perceived, that M. de la Barre had been led into error. He could refuse nothing to La Salle, who had en- dowed France with one of the finest countries in the world, and the King as w^ell as the Minister, gave him permission to establish colonies in America. Apprecia- ting these marks of favor, on the part of his Sovereign, and sensible, how much they w^ould tend to dispel the prejudice, existing against him elsewhere, he set about making preparations for a new enterprise, in which he had already secured the favourable co-operation of Gov- ernment. Ferdinand de Soto, the associate of Pizarro, whose name has become renowned in the History of Spain, had done nothing more in lo39 and '40 than travel over the interior of the country from Florida to Arkansas. The object of his expedition was to ascertain, whether there 60 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY existed any gold or silver mines, in that section of Ameri- ca, and having failed to discover any, he was about re- turning, when he met with his death at Red river in the year 1542. Moscosa, his Lieutenant, replaced him and marched with three hundred and fifty men, towards the West, but on his reaching the mountains, he changed his course to the South and embarked on board of a vessel to return to his country. Neither De Soto nor Moscosa had visited the country, with a view to its colonization, and there is nothing but vague traditions existing of their travels, in the southern part of this continent. There is a work in the Spanish language, written by Garcilasso de la Vega, of which a translation has been made b^ P. Richelet, entitled " History of the Conquest of Florida, by Ferdinand de Soto," but it contains no information of the existence of any Colony, established by the Spaniards, in the valley of the Mississippi.* We have seen the favorable reception, which Louis the Fourteenth gave La Salle, when in 1683, he informed I * This work was in the Library of the Legislative Assembly in Can- ada, which was destroyed by fire, in the month of April 1849. With the exception of Zenobe Mambre's work, all the works herein men- tioned were found in that collection. The destruction of thai library unequalled by any on this Continent, and as regards its Avorks, on American History, by any throughout the World, was an event which OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 61 him, that he had lately acquired such a vast accession of territory, on the American Continent. There were no favors, which that proud and ambitious monarch did not lavish on the discoverer of the outlet of the Mississippi. He was received at Court, with all the honors paid to the princes and nobles of the land, his name was on eve- ry one's lips and there was no praise, which he did not receive. It must have been gratifying to La Salle, when he remembered the misfortunes of his early days, and all the trials he had gone through, and when he recalled to mind the aspersions of his enemies, to lind himself the recipient of Royal favors, and the object of the be- nevolence of that monarch, under whose auspices, he had first commenced his undertaking. He proposed to Louis the Fourteenth, to unite Canada with the country, on the borders of the Gulf of Mexico, and to extend his sov- reignty from the shores of the Saint Lawrence to the outlet of the Mississippi. This project was readily countenanced by the King, and he gave La Salle instruc- tions to proceed immediately to colonize Louisiana. Four vessels were placed at his disposal ; the Jolly car- will forever be deplored. The collector of the works, a gentleman of distinguished literary attainments, had visited every book-mart in Eu- rope, to attain the object, he had in view. 6 62 HISTORY O? THE VALLEY Tying thirty-six cannons, the Belle six cannons, the Jlimahle, a vessel of three hundred tons and a transport. Two hundred and eighty persons embarked on board these vessels, amongst whom, there were a hundred sol- diers, mechanics, volunteers, and eight missionaries. On the 24th July 16S4, this little squadron, under the command of M. de Beaujeu, left Rochelle, in France, on its voyage of discovery. Scarcely had they set sail, when a mis-understanding arose between de Beaujeu and La Salle. This gave rise, as it would appear, to a lengthened controversy, in w^hich both parties appealed to the French Ministry. Mr. Sparks, in the 11th vol- ume of his valuable work, on American Biography, has given the substance of De Beaujeu's letter to the au- thorities in France, but as the details of this quarrel would be uninteresting, they are here passed over. In consequence of these misunderstandings, it seems, they committed an error in navigating the vessels and wen4 out of the proper course — instead of being at the east, they were far to the west of the outlet of the Mississippi, and on the 14th of February 168o, landed in St. Benard's bay, now called Matagorda, in Texas, at a distance of a hundred and tw^enty leagues from the river, they were in search of. To add to La Salle's dif- ficulties, the commander of the Aimable, on entering the OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 63 bay, struck his vessel on a rock, some authors say de- signedly,* others accidentally. However this may be, the JlimahU was shipwrecked and the whole cargo was lost, and La Salle w^as deprived of the use of nearly all his munitions of war, mechanical implements and other articles, which were necessary to commence ope- rations, for the establishment of a colony, in an unculti- vated and distant country. De Beaujeu, instead of pun^ ishing the Commander, received him on board of his ship, to protect him from La Salle's vengeance. There seemed to be a fatality, attending this enterprise from its commencement to its termination. De la Barre's 0|> position to it, followed by the confiscation of La Salle's property, the aspersions cast on his character, and the injury, that was attempted to be done to him in France ; all was discouraging to him, and when to this was added, the conduct of jD,e Beaujeu towards him, it certainly ap- peared,, as if the fdies were against the successful com- pletion of his projects. Pe Beaujeu endeavored to ag- gravate the hardships of J^a Salle's condition ; he refused him all succor or assistance, he would not give him any of the materials, that were on board his vessel to re- place those, which had been lost, and on the 14th March * Joutel JOURNAL HISTORIQUE DU DERNIER VOYAGE PE FEU M. Dj; JLA Salle IN 12mo., paris, 1713. 64 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY 1685, finally abandoned the young Colony, consisting of one hundred and eighty persons, on an inhospitable shore, in a distant country, surrounded by savages and exposed to the most imminent danger. They immediately began to cultivate the ground and to erect a fort, to protect them against the incursions of the Indians. When it was nearly completed, La Salle ascended the Riviere aux Vaches, to a distance of about two leagues from the Bay, where he commenced the erection of another Fort, which he called Saint Louis, in honor of the King, who had bestowed on him so many favors. Placed on a height of land, the view from the Fort extended over the whole surroundingr country. However, when the buildings were almost fin- ished, the people began to complain ; the grain, which they had sown became parched from the intensity of the heat, or was destroyed by wild animals from the adjoin- ing forest, the mechanics knew but little of their trades, and the works were suspended from the want of men to complete them, the people grew exasperated from the evils they suffered and broke out into open mutiny, which was only allayed by the interference of Joutel, the author of the best account, we have, of this unfor- tunate expedition. Some of the men w^ere seized with sickness and died, whilst others^ threatened with a hos- OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 6S tile attack from the Indians, complained that La Salle did not bring them out of the country. He alone of all the colonists, concealed his fears and never lost that equanimity, for Avhich he was remarkable; in the midst of all his difficulties, he preserved a calm and serene coun- tenance, he never gave vent to a thought, which might have the effect of discouraging his men, but on the con- trary, applied himself with assiduity to the completion of the work and was himself foremost in carrying it on. The resources of his genius seemed to increase with the obstacles he had to surmount, his temper naturally kind to his inferiors, became severe, as it was necessary to repress their insubordination and he punished the slight- est faults with the greatest rigour. There hardly ever escaped a word of kindness or consolation from his lips, towards those, who were suffering with the greatest pa- tience. A deep sadness came over the spirits of th,e colonists. They felt indifferent at every thing that oc- curred, and disease having again spread its ravages amongst them, about thirty of them surrendered life, without even a feeling of sorrow. The character of La Salle contributed greatly to his misfortunes. His pride disdained any interference with him. Any other person less capable, perhaps less just than him, but more insinuating, might have succeeded where he failed. 6* 66 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY 111 that part of the country, where this colony was established (now Texas) the climate was warm, but sal- ubriou^, the air pure, the sky serene, and it scarcely ever rained, extensive plains were seen, divided here and there, by rivers, lakes, and the most charming rural re- treats, the palm tree grew in the forests, which were filled with a species of leopards and tigers, the rivers were full of crocodiles, twenty feet in length, which chased away the fish, the hissing serpent was concealed beneath the grass, in the prairies strewed with flow- ers, which attracted the attention of the French, and a multitude of savage tribes were roving through the forests ; thus, in the midst of all the allurements of this fine tropical climate, beguiled by the charming prospect around them, they had but to wander from the precincts of their habitations, and they were doomed to meet with death, where they had hoped to enjoy life. La Salle resolved to make further exertions, for the discovery of the outlet of the Mississippi. He made a voyage to the Colorado, in which he lost several men, who were massacred by the Indians or who perished in the shipwreck of the Belle, the only vessel be- longing to him, which was left after the departure of De Beaujeu. He made another excursion among the OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 67 Cenis* a tribe in the interior, which was not more suc- cessful, and out of twenty men, who went with him, he brought back but eight. Owing to sickness, and the accidents, which happened to them, there were also frightful ravages, amongst his other companions. La Salle proposed to ask for assistance from the inhabit- ants of the West India Islands, and to travel about the gulf of Mexico, until he found the Mississippi, but the loss of the Belle frustrated all his plans ; his resources failing him every day, and being distant two thousand miles from the habitations of civilized man, there re- mained no other recourse, but to demand assistance from France, by the way of Canada. He decided to go himself to Illinois, a step which would certainly have been unadvisable, had not his presence been necessary in Canada, to silence his oppo- nents, who were always ready to cast aspersions on his conduct, whenever success did not attend him. He left on the twelfth of January 1687, taking with him seven- teen persons, and leaving twenty at Fort Saint Louis, including men, women and children. Thus, at this peri- od, the number of colonists was reduced from one hun- • Charlevoix mentions, that the Clamccets were the names of the savages, who lived on the borders of the sea, whilst the Cenis occu- pied the interior. 68 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY dred and eighty to thirty-seven. A Canadian of the name of Le Barbier was left in command of the Fort. "We separated," says Joutel, *' one from another, with such sorrow and sadness, that it appeared as if we all had a secret presentiment, we should never see each other again." The journey was slow and painful. On the sixteenth of March, whilst they were yet, on, one of the tributa- ries of Trinity river, a sanguinary tragedy occurred, which seemed to complete the misfortunes, which had already befallen this ill-fated expedition. Some of the men who accompanied La Salle, at the head of whom was Duhaut, being separated from the rest, had a quar- rel with La Salle's nephe\v., named Moragnet ; dishear- tened at their losses and privations, and incensed at the insolence of this man, they determined to kill him, and to dispatch at the same time his two companions, in case they should disclose their participation in the offence. But they had no sooner committed this triple assassina- tion, than fearing the justice of La Salle, and carried away by their propensity to commit crime, they thought their vengeance would not be satisfied, as long as that Chief lived ; his death was therefore resolved upon. In the mean time, La Salle, finding that his nephew did not return, a suspicion flitted across his mind, that OP THE MISSISSIPPI. 69 something wrong had occurred to him, and he asked, if he had not had some difficulty with Duhaut. He left immediately to go and meet him. The conspirators having ohserved him coming at a distance, loaded their guns, crossed the river, and concealed themselves in the brushwood, lying in wait for him. The latter, on ap- proaching their place of concealment, observed two ea- gles, flying over his head, as if they were in the neigh- borhood of some prey ; he fired his gun. One of the conspirators came forth from his hiding place and on La Salle's approaching him, he asked him w^here was his nephew ? Whilst he was giving a vague reply, a ball struck La Salle in the head, and he fell mortally wounded, without saying a word. The missionary An- astasc who was near him, feared that he w^ould undergo the same fate. La Salle lived about an hour after he had been wounded, and in shaking hands with Anastase, \vho was on his knees near him, indicated to him, that he understood the words, which that pious missionary was addressing to him. He was buried on the spot, where he was killed, in the midst of the forest, by that good Priest, who planted a cross over his grave, in mem- ory of one, who had been to him a good friend and a kind companion. Mr. Sparks places the scene of this bloody drama, on the borders of one of the tributaries 70 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY of the river Brazos, whilst other writers say, it occur- red in the vicinity of Trinity river. The murderers laid hold of everything they could find and proceeded on their journey ; some of their companions with their hearts overburdened with grief, others with the deepest remorse and disquietude. The assassins soon became disunited, and in a quarrel, which they had, respecting the division of the property, Du- haut and the Surgeon Liotot, the two chief conspirators, met with their death from a pistol shot, fired at them by their companions. The savages looked with terror on these sanguinary scenes, perpetrated in the depths of the forest, by those very men, who had come amongst them to inculcate peaceful doctrines, and to teach them, how sinful it was to imbrue their hands in hu- man blood. Soon after the commission of this last crime, they separated. All those who were compromis- ed in the murder, remained amongst the Indians, whilst the others to the number of seven, viz : Joutel, Anas- tase, the Cavaliers, uncle and nephew, and three others, continued their journey, as far as Illinois, where they arrived at Fort Saint Louis, on the fourteenth of Sep- tember 1687. However sad was the fate of La Salle and his com- panions, the small colony, that had remained, at Saint OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 71 Bernard's Bay, met with even more dreadful disasters. A few days after La Salle left, the savages suddenly at- tacked the fort, and massacred all the inhabitants, with the exception of five. They had suffered all the pangs of want and hunger, they had been exposed to the at- tacks of hordes of ruthless savages, and gladly welcom- ed death, as the means of averting their misery. The five persons, who escaped, fell into the hands of the Spaniards ; two or three of them were sent to the mines of Mexico and the others, young men named Talon, were taken under the protection of the Vice-Roy of that country, and treated by him, with every mark of kind- ness. When they arrived at the age of manhood, they were placed in the Spanish Navy, and after several en- gagements, in which they distinguished themselves, re- turned to France, their native country. Such was the unfortunate issue of an expedition which had inspired the greatest hopes, and which would have probably succeeded, had they confined themselves to promoting the objects they had in view at the estab- lishment, where they were at first located, without di- recting their attention elsewhere. Texas is one of the finest and most fertile Countries in the world, but La Salle here committed the same error he had fallen into, in Cana- da, that of being accompanied by too many persons, in his 72 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY expeditions. The ruin of St. Louis, was- the necessary consequence of the disasters, which befel this party. In order to promote its success. La Salle ought to have remained in his young Colony and given encouragement to settlements and the arts of agriculture. Some authors reproach him for having lost sight of his first designs, in order to attempt the discovery of the fabulous mines of Sainte Barbe ; but there is nothing in Joutel, nor in Zenobe Mambre,* which would justify this assertion.! It would appear, that the genius of this celebrated traveller was more adapted to establish a great commer- cial empire in those distant countries, than to found an agricultural colony. There was something grand and majestic in his ideas, and the plans, which he submitted to Louis the Fourteenth, were based on exact and * Christian Le Clere " First establishment of the Faith in New France." f On the contrary, instead of approaching the Spaniards, he went farther from them. We read in Zenobe Mambre's work, " It was here, that La Salle changed his route from the North-East to the East, for reasons, which he does not give us, and which we have nev- er been able to penetrate." The Mississippi was to the East of him. There must be some error in this account from Zenobe Mambre, the words from " North East to the East," ought perhaps to be read " From North East to the West." His error consisted in not going to the East, where he would have discovered the outlet of the river. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 73 profound calculations ; he was the precursor of Du- pleix. I have enlarged more on the result of this unfortu- nate expedition, because it serves as a prelude to that, which was afterwards undertaken in Louisiana. The student of American history owes a tribute of respect to the memory of a man, who sacrificed his fortune and his life, in the cause of French colonization in America, for if he did not establish, he at least greatly accelera- ted the establishment of Louisiana, now the abode of so many of his countrymen, and one of the most flourish- ing parts of the Union. Every day adds also to the in- terest which is taken in the history of the fathers of the New World. As this Continent becomes more inhabit- ed, as these ancient colonies, once so poor, so humble in their origin, are changed into States, into independent Republics, the names of their founders acquire increased celebrity, and their actions may be regarded as the land- marks of history, behind which there is so much to interest the student in his researches for information, concerning the early discovery of this part of America. The foundation of a Colony in Louisiana, like that of Canada, and the other French possessions in America was doomed to be accompanied by many vicissitudes and misfortunes. The experience of a century had not 74 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY changed the policy of the government, the large and comprehensive principles of Colbert were forgotten, even at the time, when it was first contemplated to found this establishment, and the penury of a nearly exhaus- ted treasury induced the creating of a monopoly, where the enterprise ought to have received the attention, for it needed the undivided energies of the Government. France, at the present day is attempting to establish a military empire in Africa ; it might learn a lesson, from its experience in the colonization of this Continent. There were none of the elements of durability in either the policy she pursued or the institutions she established in the New World. She placed her foot on American soil, in the hope of realizing money from the adventure, her objects were to promote commerce and increase her wealth, she thought but little of the means of ensuring happiness to her children on this Continent. By encour- aging the arts of agriculture, she would be giving hope to the Colonists, that they would find a permanent home, in the wilds of America, and this would thwart her schemes for aggrandizing herself, by the monopoly of the commerce of the New World. She would not give them liberty, but preferred transplanting to this Conti- nent the germs of that despotism, that was crushing the energies of her people at home. Hence, her want of OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 75 success, in making the Colonists feel a permanent inter- est in the soil, hence, from their love of liberty and fear of despotism they yielded, under the combined influ- ence of American valor and patriotism. From the plains of Abraham, in the frigid regions of Canada, to the rice and sugar plantations of Louisiana, there was not an inch of territory, which she was not finally obliged to abandon, although she was the first to enter on the work of colonization and to obtain a temporary foot- hold in the country. The war, which was terminated by the Peace of Ris- wick, had engrossed so much of the attention of the French, that they did not make any further attempt to colonize either Texas or Louisiana ; but several French Canadians, attracted by the beauty and fertility of the country, had established themselves during this period, along the shores of the Atlantic and the Mississippi, and were the ancestors of many of those wealthy planters and merchants, who are now settled in the City of New Orleans and the surrounding country. They had foun- ded establishments in that part of Louisiana, and at Mo- bile, in order to be as near as possible to the French West India Islands, whither they resorted for purposes of com- merce.* But as soon as peace was re-established on a * Le Page Dupratz work on America, published in Paris in 1758, 76 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY solid and permanent basis, the French Court bestowed ks attention on the affairs of the New World. The Spaniards, who at all times looked upon America, as their exclusive patrimony, had regarded La Salle's en- terprise with much envy, and they learned the news of his death and the dispersion of his companions, without manifesting any emotion. They knew, it would afford them the opportunity of taking quiet possession of the country and driving away the French for ever. After having visited different parts of the coast, for the pur- pose of selecting a convenient locality for a settlement, they established themselves at Pensacola, at the western extremity of Florida, where they had remained for a short period, before D'Iberville arrived. On his return from Hudson's Bay in 1697, this cele- brated traveller proposed to the French Ministry, to re- sume the projects, which they had some years before contemplated, with respect to Louisiana. M. de Pont- charlrain readily accepted his offer, and gave him two vessels, with which he set sail from Rochefort in France, in the month of October of the following year, and more successful than La Salle^ he found the outlet of the Mississippi, the search after which had occupied a part of the life-time of his predecessor^ Having, on liis return, been named Governor General of that ex- OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 77 tensive country, he went there in the year 1699, with a number of Colonists. He presented himself before Fort Pensacola and asked permission to disembark, which the Spaniards refused. He continued his route towards the West, and in March 1699, entered the mouth of the Mississippi, which he ascended to the settlement of the Outmas, a tribe established above the place, now known as Donaldsonville, who delivered to him a letter from De Tonti, addressed to La Salle, whom he had wished to meet in the fall of 1685. D'Iberville returned and disembarked his small colo- ny, in the Bay of Biloxi, situated between the river and Pensacola. Here, they suffered much from the heat of the climate, and there was nothing in the appearance of the country to attract their attention ; its dry and arid soil they judged unfit for agriculture and they conclu- ded, that D'Iberville selected the locality, as being so well adapted to establish co-mmercial relations with the neighbouring Indians, the Spaniards, the French West India Islands and with Europe. On his return from France, in the year 1700, D'Iber- ville was apprised that the English, coming from the sea, had appeared in the Mississippi, whilst others com- ing by land from Carolina, had advanced as far as the 78 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY territory of the Chickasas, on the river Yazous.* The attention of this nation was attracted towards Louisiana, by the treasonable conduct of Father Hennepin,! who in dedicating a new edition of his travels in America, to King William the Third, wherein he described La Salle's discoveries as his own, invited that Protestant Monarch to take possession of the country and to prop- agate the Gospel amongst the Indians. J William, therefore despatched three vessels, laden with Huguenots to commence the colonization of the Mississippi, but D'lberville was before-hand with them. They then went to the Province of Panuca, to concert measures with the Soaniards to drive awav the French from Bi- loxi. This proceeding was however ineffectual. § They met with hardly any opposition on the part of the Span- * The Carolinas North and South are marked on the old French charts, as having the Mississippi for their western boundary. t The King of France issued orders to arrest this Monk, if he pre- sented himself in Canada. (Documens de Paris.) :{: There is a curious passage in the abstract of a Memorial to King William, presenting the claims of the English to a part of the valley of the Mississippi, (to be found in the appendix'to Coxe's Coralr.- na, page, 86,) in w^hich the New Englanders claimed a rigjht to the territory, on the ground of discovery, in the year 1678. Coxe's Cora- lana was published in 1722. § Universal History, XI., 278. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 79 iards, and from the friendly relations, which subsisted between these nations, at the commencement of the cen- tury, the English were foiled in their efforts to bring abo-ut a state of hostility between them. After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, a large number of Huguenots had established themselves in Vir- ginia an 1 a^ong the coast of America. They had ac- quired considerable property in Carolina, and Massachu- setts had given them the right of representation in the Legislature, They established many towns, which are now in a flourishing state. These unfortunate exiles, who could never forget their native country, had peti- tioned Louis the Fourteenth for permission to settle un- der his protection in Louisiana ; they assured him that they would ever be faithful subjects and would demand nothing more than liberty of conscience. They said, that if he acceded to their wishes, they would leave in considerable numbers and aid in developing the resources of that flourishing country. Louis the XIV, who be- came more religious, as his years advanced, refused their prayer, " The King," says Pontchartrain, ^' did not expel the Protestants from his Kingdom, to erect a Republic in America." They renewed their demand, under the regency of the Duke of Orleans, but that li- centious Prince gave them the same answer as his pred- 80 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY ecessor. In speaking of the Huguenots, the circum- stance of their arrival in America, may be mentioned, in connection with the discovery of the West. They were a hardy and energetic race of men ; suffering from religious persecution and escaping from the flames of religious warfare, which were kindling in their native country, they emigrated to America, appreciating the value of civil and religious liberty. Foremost in every work for the advancement and amelioration of their race, they prosecuted science for the blessings it would confer on mankind and thus contributed in no slight de- gree to facilitate the labors of those, who were making researches in America. Nor were they behind-hand in the struggles, which their adopted Country was after- wards engaged in, with the parent State. They volun- tarily came forward and rendered essential service to America, when she stood most in need of it. " The re- membrance, says an American writer,* of the distin- guished services, which their descendants rendered to our country, and to the cause of civil and religious lib- * Memoir of the French Protestants, who settled at Oxford, Mas- sachusetts A. D. 1686, with a sketch of the entire History of the Protestants of France by A. Holmes, D. D. Corresponding Secreta- ry. " Collection of the Massachusetts Historical Society. Vo. 2nd of the 3d series. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 81 erty, ought to increase our respect for the French emi- grants and our interest in their history. Mr. Gabriel Manigault of South Carolina gave the country, which had offered an asylum to his ancestors, two hundred and twenty thousand dollars, to carry on the war of Inde- pendance. He rendered this service, at the commence- ment of the contest, when no one could say, whether it would terminate in a revolution or a revolt. Of the nine chairmen of the old Congress, who directed the affairs of the United States, during the war of the Rev- olution, three w^ere descendants of French Protestant refugees, viz : Henry Laurens of South Carolina, John Jay of New York, and Elias Boudinot of New Jersey." We left D'Iberville ^engaged in establishing his small Colony in the Bay of Biloxi, near Pensacola. He un- dertook a short voyage up the Mississippi, as far as the Natchez, where he contemplated fixing the site of a town, but he returned to Biloxi, where he established his head quarters. M. de Sauvolle was named the commandant of this Fort. D'Iberville w^ote to the French Ministry, that men of experience in the affairs of America were of opinion, that Louisiana would nev- er become important in a commercial point of view, un- less they established free trade wdth the merchants of the Kingdom. The Government restricted commerce 82 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY vith Louisiana, as it was generally believed at that pe- riod, that great value was to be attached to the pearl fisheries, and the skins of the bisons and other wild ani- mals, and that the trade in these articles would greatly enrich the public treasury. The rumors that prevailed in France, respecting the existence of gold and silver mines, to the west of the Mississippi, led the Govern- ment to indulge in the most sanguine hopes, that the country would prove the richest portion of the French domains. This, therefore, induced the Ministry to cre- ate monopolies, w^hich they could at all times regulate, rather than throw open the commerce of Louisiana to the enterprise and industry of its people. D'Iberville sent M. Leseur, his relative, to take possession of a copper mine, on Green river, to the North West of the Falls of Saint Anthony. This undertaking was soon abandoned, on account of its being carried on so far in the interior. With regard to the pretended mines of gold and silver, which excited much more attention in Europe, than in America, they were so many idle delu- sions, which seized hold of the public mind for the mo- ment, but which vanished, as soon as the uncertainty of their existence became known. Not that there were no mines to the west of the Mississippi, but they had not then been discovered. With many, the search after « OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 83 gold was the only object they had m view, in coming to the New World, but their hopes were doomed to be disappointed and their labours resulted in shame and ruin. Such were the frequent attempts, made by a Por- tuguese fugitive, named Antoine, who had escaped from the mines of Mexico, and w^ho had made several fruit- less searches, in the soil of Louisiana. They resulted in nothing else, than to bring the French hunters after gold, nearer and nearer to the sources of the rivers, emptying themselves into the Mississippi, and which took their rise in the neighbourhood of the Rocky Moun- tains. In their wanderings, they had traversed the coun- try, bordering on the banks of the Red river, the Ark- ansas, and the Missouri, and the coveted riches, which they idly fancied, were embowelled in the earth, fled be- fore them, as so many mirages of the desert. To what reflections do these unsuccessful attempts of the French give rise ? Had they discovered the exis- tence of the gold, which is now known to be, to the west of the Mississippi ; had they the most distant idea of the existence of that wealth, which is now within the limits of our Government, w^hat an impetus would it have given to the cause of French colonization in Ameri- ca ? Thousands would have left their native country and settled themselves on this Continent, attracted by 84 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY that golden meteor, which they saw in the distance and which they were so eagerly in search of. Instead of shedding their blood, on the battle fields of Duquesne and Monongahela, in the hope of sustaining a feeble sov- ereignty in the New World, they would have fought w^ith desperation, knowing the value of the prize, they were surrendering. But the French was not the nation, which Providence had ordained, should become the in- heritors and the possessors of this soil. The glorious deeds of our ancestors, in ejecting the French from America, w^ere began amongst the mountain passes of the AUeghanies. They were consummated in the war for Independence. Divine Providence, in rewarding those, who were not engaged in a search after gold, but who were battling in the cause of human liberty and civilization, on the plains of Cerro Gordo and Buena Vista, opened to their view those objects, which the French had searched for in vain, those mines of gold, which they had so long coveted, but which they never could obtain. In the year 1701, D'Iberville commenced an establish- ment on the river Mobile, and M. de Bienville, his brother, since in command of the colony, after the death of De Sauvolle, removed the inhabitants from the sandy plains of Biloxi, to this more favored locality. The OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 85 river was only navigable for boats of light draught, and the soil which it watered, was only adapted for the cul- tivation of tobacco, but, " according to the system, that then, prevailed of fixing the colony near the mouth of a river," they wished to be within a short distance of the Island of Dauphine, or the Massacre, as it was called, in order that they might have the advantage of a harbour, from whence, as at Biloxi, they might trade with the Spaniards, the French West India Islands and with Europe. Mobile soon became the chief place of residence, {chef-lieu,) of the French. On his fourth voyage to Louisiana, in the following year, D'Iberville caused barracks and stores to be constructed, and under the management of its first founder, the Colony advanc- ed by degrees in population and resources, until the death of D'Iberville, which occurred in the year 1706. D'Iberville expired, with the reputation of being one of the bravest and most skilful officers, in the French Navy. Born in Canada, of an ancient Norman family, he had enlisted, almost from his boyhood, in the service of his country. He had passed his apprenticeship in arms, in the wars, which the French carried on against hostile Indian tribes, in which the most essential qualifi- cations in the French officer was the possession of ex- traordinary physical force, and the most daring intre- 8 86 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY pidity, and in which the officer, as the soldier was ahke accustomed to lengthy marches in the thickest forests, at all seasons of the year. Depending on the chase for food, and handling his gun, as he would his axe, and his paddle as his sword, he was brought up to a life of the severest privations ; " not to fear a ball, if it should strike him in the midst of the forest, nor to attack the most savage Indians, in an ambuscade, nor to storm a Fort, by a sharp escalade, and without artillery." D' Iberville excelled in this difficult and sanguinary mode of warfare. He was no less distinguished as a mariner, and had he remained in France, would have reached the highest grades in his profession. He engaged in a num- ber of combats on the sea, sometimes against superior forces, and he was always victorious. He tv.'ice carried on a most desolating w^ar, against the English posses- sions in New Foundland, and took its capital ; he con- quered Pemaquid in Acadia, subdued the territory around Hudson's Bav, founded Louisiana, and terminated a most glorious career, before Havana in 1706, then ser- ving, as the Commander in Chief of the French Squad- ron.* Having been attacked with the yellow fever, his health for the last three or four years of his eventful • The work of Le Page Dupratz. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 87 life, had become seriously impaired. The " colonies," (says Bancroft,) and the French Nav^ iost in him a hero, worthy of their regret." He was a man whom nature had endowed with the necessary qualifications to go through the difficult duties he had to perform. The Marquis of Denonville, who appreciated his talents, had recommended him to the French Court. In 1702, Louis the Fourteenth, who encouraged the young French no- bility in Canada, raised him from the grade of a Cap- tain of a Frigate to that of Commander of a man of war.* His death was a loss for Louisiana, for it is to be presumed, that had he lived longer, the colony would have made considerable progress ; but that illustrious mariner, whose authority was so great, being dead, a long period elapsed, before a new Governor arrived from France. Two years after the death of D'Iberville, M. Diron d'Artaguette came to Louisiana, in the capacity of Com- * Gazette of France of the 15th July, 1702. Historical notes and manuscripts of M. A. Berthelot, Esquire. The historical manuscripts in the possession of the family of the late Amable Berthelot, Esqr., Member of the Canadian Parliament are of considerable interest and have not yet been published. Jacques Viger, Esqr., late Mayor of the City of Montreal, Canada, is also in possession of manuscripts of great value relating to the early history of America. 88 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY ' missaire-ordonnafeur, an office, which corresponded with that of Intendant in the old French Colonies, investing him with civil and military authority. Some authors mention, that D'Artaguette was named Governor, but this is an error. This new functionary worked with little success to put the Colony in a better condition, and the inhabitants had long complained of the hard- ships, they had to undergo. Neither the soil nor the climate was adapted for agricultural or industrial pursuits, and they wished to return to their native country. However, they entertained quite a contrary opinion in Europe of the capability and resources of Louisiana, and notwithstanding France was then engaged in a most disastrous war, her possessions in America contin- ued to attract a great deal of attention. In the course of this war the Island of Dauphine suffered much from the depredations of corsairs and pirates, and in the year 1711, they caused a damage to the Colonists, which was estimated at eighty thousand francs. D'Artaguette was not the man, who ought to have been chosen to direct the affairs of the Colony, at that critical period. He was weak-minded and vaclilating, and his conduct was in striking contrast with that of D'Iberville, who infus- ed a spirit of energy and determination amongst the peo- OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 89 pie. "A Colony (says Raynal *) founded on such an uncertain basis, could never prosper." The death of D'Iberville had spread consternation amongst them and having lost their leader, they vv^ere thrown into a state of despair. The Colonists thought, they were about being totally abandoned by France, and sought other lo- calities, where they hoped to find better means of liv- ing. Towards the end of the year 1711, there were but twenty-eight families remaining, and these w£r£ re- duced to a state of the greatest misery. The French possessions in America were in the state in which they are 'herein described, wh^n in the year 1712, Crozat demanded and obtained from the King of France the monopoly of the commerce of Louisiana, for a period of sixteen years. It is however necessary, that we should direct our at- tention to what was occurring in the North Western * The Abbe Raynal whose work on the '^ History of the two Indies," icxcited such attention at the time of its publication and increased his reputation, as an author and a statesman. His " Essay on the Amer- ican Revolution," is justly esteemed as a master-piece of fine writing and pure philosophy. This work contributed much to enlighten the public mind in Europe, as to the true character of the contest, be- tween the Colonies and England. Many passages in it are truly elo- quent. 8* 90 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY portion of the Continent, before we refer to any other matters, connected with the colonization of the south- ern part of America. Mr. Bancroft says,* that before 1693, the Reverend Father Gravier began a mission among the IlUnois, and became the founder of Kaskaskia, though it is not known in what year it was estabhshed. This presump- tion is founded on the contents of a letter, written by the Reverend Gabriel Marest, dated ^^ Jlux Kaskaskias, autrement dit P hnmaculee Co7iception de la Sainte Vi- erge, le 9 J^ovemhre, 1712, in which mention is made of there having been for some years/ an establishment at this point. He further states, that soon after the foun- ding of Kaskaskia, Cahokia and Peoria were establish- ed. These statements are repeated in " Perkins' An- nals of the West,! and the authority, on which they are based, seems to be taken from a work, published in Paris in 1781, 'Lettres edijiantes,' 328, 339, 375. I have not seen any account, in the French histories, of the establishment of any place as a permanent settlement before that of the Forts Miami and Crevecoeur, and in an old map in my possession^ which was pubhshed in I • Bancroft vol. 3d, 195. f Perkins Annals of the Weit., page 55. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 91 France after the year 1738, descriptive of America, whilst in the occupation of the Indian tribes, I observe a river, marked on this chart, as running in a South West- erly direction from Detroit, and named the " River St. Jerome, by which the Canadians come from Quebec," (Riviere St. Jerome par ou les Canadiens viennent de Que- bec.) The outlet of this river is at a place, called " Fort Staquado,'' on the Ohio, which if it be the Wabash, as I am inclined to believe, this Fort must have occupied the site, at the junction of that river with the Ohio. The Canadians generally followed the course of the rivers, and the geographer, by indicating the river St. Jerome, as the course which they took, it is rather singular if it be the Wabash, that they should not have established them- selves, along the shores of that river and the Ohio, and the Southern branch of the Mississippi, before they as- cended as high up the river as the present sites of Kas- kaskia and Cahokia. These latter settlements are not marked on this old chart, and although the geographers of that period may not have been very remarkable for accuracy in describing the country, nevertheless I am inclined to entertain doubts, whether other places were not established before the Canadians had settled either in Kaskaskia or Cahokia, In my opinion, Fort Creve- 92 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY ccEur,* near Peoria, Illinois, might claim the honor of being the first permanent settlement of the " white men" in the West, for as we are informed, it was founded by La Salle, its claims to precedence in this respect are bet- ter, than those of either of the places w^hich have been named. The matter is not of much importance, but as a historical fact, is worthy of further inquiry. The historian Hennepin had" said, " that those who would have the happiness, at some future period, to pos- sess the lands of this agreeable and fertile country, w^ould be under lasting obligations to those travellers, who show- ed them the way, and crossed Lake Erie, after a hun- dred leagues of difficult navigation." These w^ordshad ** Some writers, amongst others "Coxe's Coralana," at page 32 of his work, says, that Fort Crevecosur was built on the south east BANK of the River Illinois, others locate it differently. In the histor- ical view of Peoria^ published lately by S. Dewitt Drown, there is a plan of the Fort, which is located by the writer, "at two or three miles East of Peoria." Like other matters of historical inquiry, relating to discoveries in the "West such as the dates of the establishments of Towns, villages, &c., nothing can be stated with certainty. In Mr. Drown's work, and the Rev. Mr. Peck's able sketches, which w^ere concluded in the Republican of this City, on the 17th of August last may be found much useful and valuable information. Judge Breeze's labours on this subject and Mr. Primm's able address are too wdl .known to need any reference to them. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 93 hardly been pronounced, when in June 1700, M. de la Motte Cadillac, arrived at Detroit, with a hundred Ca- nadians and a Missionary, to form an establishment. The colonists were delighted with the beauty of the country and the mildness of the climate. In the lan- guage of the writers of that period, " Nature spread its charms over the face of that delightful country." With its surface slightly undulated by picturesque elevations, its green prairies, its forests of oak, and of maple, in- termingled here and there with specimens of the wild acacia, its running streams, and the beautiful small islands, dotted over the surface of its lakes, there was every thing to attract the attention and enrapture the imaginations of the newly arrived Colonists, particularly after leaving the bleak hills and snowy vales of Canada, their native country. Even at the present day, the Ca- nadians, in the midst of their more enterprising breth- ren, still linger around the old homesteads of their an- cestors, in that section of Michigan, and in the markets of Detroit, the old Canadian vehicles are to be found, in striking contrast with the more novel inventions of their industrious neighbours. About this period, 1701, the English Colonists in America w^ere beginning to be alarmed at the important position the French were assuming, in relation to the 94 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY affairs of this Continent. The latter power being in possession of Canada and the country bordering on the Great Lakes, was the rival of England, whose Colonies, were situated, near the seaboard. The policy of the French Government was to extend their sovereignty in the interior of America, and they could only do so, by cultivating the friendly feelings of the powerful Indian tribes, who wandered over the country. It was a vast and gigantic plan, which the ministers of Louis the Four- teenth had formed for the subjugation of this continent. They contemplated the establishment of a chain of forts, extending from Canada, on the one hand, to Louisiana, on the other, and with the Mississippi as their western boundary, they thought, it would not be difficult to drive away the English and obtain exclusive possession of the country. At that period, the British Colonies did not exceed two hundred and twenty-five thousand in population ; they were scattered over an immense tract of country, from Massachusetts on the one hand, to the Carolinas on the other, and there was no concerted plan of action between them. The New England States did not comprise much more than one hundred thousand men, many of whom were engaged in agricultu- ral pursuits, whenever their enemies, (the Indians) ceased from carrying on their predatory excursions, and afforded I I OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 95 an opportunity of employing themselves, in rural labour. The Jibenakis were then a powerful tribe, whose strong- holds were situated on their Northern frontier and they gave the Colonists quite sufficient trouble, in resisting their encroachments, without interfermg in the contests, which were carried on, between the French and the other tribes, in the interior. This led to that passive state, in which the British Colonists remained, up to the period of the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748, when from their increased numbers and powerful influence, they were commencing to give another direction to affairs, on this Continent. But four years had elapsed, since the settlement of Detroit, when the flames of war were again kindled and it required all the energy and activity of the Marquis de Vaudreuil, the Governor General of Canada, to quell the turbulent spirit of the Iroquoise confederation. The latter were the complete masters of the country, and their alliance was courted by both the French and the English. During this period and for a number of years, the cause of colonization was greatly impeded by these unremitting hostilities on the part of the Indian tribes. The history of this period is replete with accounts of the encroachments of the Indian tribes, on the French possessions in the West, and of the measures which they 96 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY adopted to repel them. The slightest cause was imme- diately seized hold of, to declare war between these nu- merous and powerful tribes and their weak enemies, the French. Several voyageurs from Canada travelled through the Western country for purposes of trade, but we read of no further settlements in the West for a num- ber of years. The historical records of this period, re- lating to the discovery of the West, are very incomplete, and it is only of late years that any attention has been bestowed on the subject. These records consist almost exclusively of the " Relations of the Jesuits," several of whose works have only been lately discovered.* From the year 1714 to 1728, there v/as nothing inter- esting in the annals of military warfare, in the West. In this year, however, the Canadians were again called to arms, and equipped an expedition, which is worthy * Dr. O'Callaghan, author of the "History of New Netherlands" and the compiler of several valuable State papers, relating to the His- tory of New York, has lately published a list of the works, which the Jesuits wrote, on the early history of this country. This small pub- lication has since been translated into French, by Jacques Viger, Es- quire, of Montreal, with several notes and corrections. It is a valu- able compendium of the works of these writers. We have also lately heard of the discovery of other ^' Relations" or accounts of their voyages in the West, in one of the J.ibraries, in Rome. \ OP THE MISSISSIPPI. 97 of being mentioned, in the long contests, which ensu- ed between the Iroquoise confederation and the French, there is nothing remarkable, excepting that the history of this period is replete with accounts of most sanguin- ary battles, of these being followed by truces, which, almost as soon as they were entered into, were again broken and gave rise to scenes of the wildest disorder. Predatory excursions were made by roving Indians in the forest, into the settlements of the French at Detroit and Illinois, and it was difficult to exercise summary punishment on those offenders, who took refuge within the recesses of the forest. But in the beginning of the year 1728, the Outagamis, whose strongholds were sit- uated on the shores of Lake Michigan, caused great an- noyance to the French, by their frequent depredations and attacks on the settlement, at Detroit. This nation was distinguished for its peculiar mode of warfare and had become the object of the hatred of all the other tribes in the West. They were ferocious, cunning and cruel, they had resisted all attempts at overtures, on the part of the French, to enter into friendly relations with them, and although they suffered many defeats, no soon- er were they dispersed, than they again appeared in in- creased numbers and committed great havoc and plun- der. A military expedition was fitted out, to reduCQ 9 98 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY them to submission. It was placed under the command of M. de Ligneris and consisted of four hundred and fifty Canadians, and seven or eight hundred Indians, They left Montreal, in the commencement of June, and proceeded by a Northwardly course, to the point of their destination. They arrived at Michilimackmac, on the first of August, and at the head of Lake Michigan on the fourteenth of that month, after two months and nine days travelling. After a few engagements with a tribe, called " Les Malhomines or Folles-avoines," in which they were successful, they proceeded to the villa- ges and hunting grounds of the Outagamis, which they found deserted, and after wandering about in those lo- calities, for a short time, they retraced their steps and returned home. It was during this expedition, that the French directed their attention more particularly to fur- ther discoveries in the North West. They had succeed- ed in tracing the course of the tw^o great rivers and of all the great Lakes, in the Northern part of the Conti- nent, they had ascended the tributaries of the Missis- sippi, which take their sources in the Rocky Mountains, they had even attempted to find a North Western pas- sage to the Pacific, but in this they did not succeed, al- though we read in the works of Lepage Dupratz, that an Indian of the name of Yazou had accomplished the OP THE MISSISSIPPI. 99 journey. The French had tried on several occasions to find a passage across the mountains to the Ocean, but I do not find it recorded in any work, to which I have had access, that they were successful in attaining their object. About this period (1729) the attention of the French Government was directed to the prosecution of further discoveries in America, and for a few years they made several fruitless attempts to engage navigators and traders to direct their steps North westerly, in the hope of finding the Ocean. But few were found to under- go the dangers and perils of the journey, and it was only in the year 1738, that an expedition was formed, under the auspices of M. de Beauharnais, the Governor, the object of which was to make further discoveries, in the North west. M. de Maurepas was foremost in setting this enterprise on foot, he was the Minister of France, at that period, and was evidently a man of great genius and learning, full of enterprise, and resolved to carry on with vigor the great work of exploration, on this Continent. He chose M. de la Verandrve to be the Chief of the expedition. This man had neither the en- ergy nor the ambition of Perrot or La Salle, but he had some experience in travelling in the forests and a satis- factory result might have been expected from his la- bours. He left Canada in the year 1738, with orders to 100 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY take possession of all the countries he might discover, in the name of the French King, and to examine atten- tively, what advantages might be obtained from estab- lishino; a communication between Canada or Louisiana and the Pacific ocean. The Government contemplated the extension of trading posts to the North West as far as the ocean, and the acquisition of great wealth from the peltries and other products, furnished by the Indians. At that period, the attention of Europeans began to be directed towards the countries, in the North Western part of America, and although their researches had not as yet proved very successful, they thought, they would at no distant day realize the advantages, which would arise from the discovery of this Continent, and the unbounded wealth, which they fondly imagined, was contained within the limits of the Western Hemisphere. They knew not to what point, the boundaries of Amer- ica extended, and as their bold and fearless adventurers had advanced within the recesses of the forest, they found there was no limit, no end to their journey ; they were always proceeding in a Westerly course, and yet they did not meet with the Ocean ; it seemed to them, as if this long looked for object receded as they advanc- ed, that it was a mere dream of the imagination. Many of them returned disheartened to their country, and OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 101 abandoned the project, as one, which was fraught with danger and difficulties of no ordinary character, and which even if they succeeded in accomplishing, would be attended with little benefit to them. M. de la Ver- andrye passed Lake Superior, advanced towards the foot of Lake Winnepeg and then ascending the River Assin- niboil, approached the Rocky Mountains, which he did not however reach, having become engaged in a war with the Indians, in which he lost several of his men and becoming disconcerted at the difficulties, which sur- rounded him, he abandoned the enterprise and returned to Canada. This traveller mentioned to the learned Swedish historian Kalm, whom he afterwards met in the year 1749, that he discovered in the territory, to the North West, at a distance of nine hundred leagues from Montreal, massive stone columns of great height and durability, in some instances, one placed over the other, forming a kind of wall, and in others, consisting of one large block only ; he does not mention, that there were any superscriptions or words, marked on these stones, with the exception of one of the size of about one foot in length, by about four or five inches in breadth, on both sides of which were some unknown marks, resem- bling letters, the meaning of which they did not under- stand. This small stone was afterwards sent to the Sec- 9* 102 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY retary of State, in Paris. Many of the missionaries, whom Kalm saw in Canada, assured him, that the let- ters, which were engraved on it, resembled very much those, which were in use amongst the Tartars, and from this circumstance and others, which w^ere afterwards mentioned by other travellers, must have originated the belief, w^hich was very generally entertained, in the commencement of the eighteenth century, of the exis- tence of a great Asiatic emigration of tribes from Tar- tary, the progenitors of at least a part of the Indian tribes, wandering over the Continent. The late discov- eries in Central America would also tend to fortify this hypothesis.* However it may be, it gave rise to some very learned disquisitions, amongst the French and Span- ish savanSy to account for the origin of our Indian tribes. The voluminous and elaborate works of De Pauw and Bailli d'Engel, may be enumerated amongst the former, whilst the work of Gregorio Garcias, in folio " Origen de los Indios de el JVuovo Mundo et Indios Occiden- tales'' published in Madrid, in the year 1729, may be mentioned amongst the latter. There has been no ques- * P. F. Cabrera, 'Description of an Ancient City, discovered in the Kingdom of Guatemala,' London quarto, 1822. f Stephen's Travels in Central America. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 103 tion, even in modern times, on which such a vast amount of learning has been expended, as that, respecting the origin of the savage tribes of this Continent, and althouo-h volumes have been written on this abstruse subject, we are yet as much in the dark, as ever, as to the manner, in which this Continent first became inhabi- ted. The French gave the name of the Country of the Western Ocean, ''^ Pays de la mer de POuesf to the territory, discovered by M. de la Verandrye, because they thought, it was not far from the sea ; they estab- lished a chain of small trading posts, to keep the Indi- ans under subjection, and to carry on their commerce in peltries. The post which was at the greatest distance from any settlement of the French, was called " Queens Post ;" it was situated at about a hundred leagues, to the West of Lake Winnepeg, on the Assinniboil river. Three other forts or posts were afterwards erected to the West of Queen's Post, the farthest one being called Pascoyac, after the river of that name. Under the administration of M. de la Jonquiere, another expedition was set on foot, having the same ob- ject in view. The French Intendant Bigot was then in Canada ; for the purpose of trading with the Indians, as well as to make discoveries, he formed an association, 104 HIStO&Y O^ ¥HE VALLEY which consisted of the Governor and himself, M. Breard, Comptroller of the Marine, Legardeur de St. Pierre, an officer, distinguished for his bravery and well liked by the Indians, and De Marin, a Sea-Captain, held in great fear by the Savages, for the cruelty of his disposition. To the two latter, was assigned the accomplishment of the objects of the Association. Marin was to ascend the Missouri, in order to discover if there were another river flowing to the Ocean, whilst St, Pierre was to take the direction of Queen's Post, and endeavor to meet his fellow-traveller, at some point, which was designated by them. The object, which they had in view to make scientific discoveries in the West, appeared however to be subordinate to that of amassing wealth from their voyage, for they returned, after a short journey, bring- ing back with them a large quantity of peltries, the value of which was immense and served to swell the coffers of the Association. We read of no further discoveries, in the North Western part of this Continent, which are worthy of being mentioned, unless it be those made by American travellers, at a much later period, whose efforts in the cause of the colonization of the West yield only in in- terest to what the early pioneers accomplished in the discovery of the Valley of the Mississippi. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 105 In the year 1735, the tocsin of war was again heard and although, hostilities did not commence until several years after, preparations were being made by the two great antagonistic nations, on this Continent, in their struggle for ascendency. In this year (1735) M. de Van Ransaeller, Patroon or Lord of the Manor, in Al- bany, New York, paid a visit to the Governor in Cana- da, and informed him, that there was a more favorable feeling existing between the people of that Colony, and those on the other side of the frontier, and deprecating (even if war should break out,) any hostile proceedings, between the Fi'ench and the English settlers, in that Colony. In 1740, war between England and France, appeared to be more imminent than ever, and M. de Beauharnais, under orders from the French Court, put the fortresses of Chambly, St. Frederick and Niagara, in a state of defence. He also courted the alliance of the Indian tribes, whose assistance would greatly contribute to the success of his cause. Their assistance was very desirable, in as much, as at that period (1741) there were upwards of fifteen thousand able-bodied men, who were reckoned as warriors, amongst the Indian tribes, from the territory occupied by the Abenaquis to the North, to the Mobiliens and Choctaws to the South. We shall now recur to what was passing in the South 106 HIStORY OP THfi VALlEY Western portion of America, but before we conclude this part of our subject, we cannot but express our re- gret, that the historical records, contained in the ac- counts of the Missionaries, relating to the discoveries in the North West are so unsatisfactory and incomplete, that it is almost impossible to enter more extensively into the narration of facts, bearing on this interesting subject of inquiry. With further developments, made in the works of the early missionaries (some in manu- script) which are, now and then, being discovered in the libraries on the Continent of Europe, no doubt, most important information will be obtained and the la- bours of the student of the history of this period will be greatly facilitated.* We haVe already mentioned, that in the year 1712, Crozat obtained, from the French Government, the ex- clusive privilege of trading with Louisiana, for a period of sixteen years. The Crown of France was then en- gaged in hostile preparations, for the part it vras taking * We read in the Public Journals, a short time ago, of the discov*- ery of several old manuscripts of the Missionaries, in a library, be- longing to the Dominican Friars, in Rome. It would be worth while for any one, to make further researches in the libraries in Continen- tal Europe. He would no doubt, obtain a mass of information,which would be of great interest to the American reader. OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 107 in the affairs of the Spanish succession, and but little attention was directed to the colonization of its territo- ries in the southern part of this Continent. Govern- ment relied more on the energies of private associations or individual enterprise, to carry out its plans, for the development of the resources of this country, and it was with this view, that it delegated a part of its au- thority to a French merchant, who had acquired a large fortune in his commercial undertakings, and who had already been of great service to the Government, in bringing into France a considerable quantity of the precious metals, when her finances were being nearly exhausted and she stood greatly in need of such assist- ance. This merchant was Crozat. He had been named Secretary and Counsellor of the Royal household and held an important place, in the department of finances. To the exclusive grant, with which he had been invest- ed of trading with the Colony, was added the privilege of exploring and working whatever mines might be found and Crozat set about the performance of his task, with his mind intent on the great advantages, which would spring from the enterprise. Louis the Fourteenth, named M. de la Motte Cadillac, Governor in place of M. de Muys, who died on his way to America. M. Duclos had the office of Cominissaire 108 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY ordonnafeur (a Commissioner with extended authority, but subordinate to that of the Governor) in the place of M. d'Artaguette, who had returned to France, and a Superior Council was established, for three years, com- posed of these two functionaries, and a Clerk, with power to add to their number. This Council was a general tribunal for civil and criminal matters, with an unlimited jurisdiction, as to the amount involved, or the nature of the offence. Their proceedings were to be regulated by the Customs of Paris.* M. de la Motte Cadillac disembarked in Louisiana, in the year 1713, and in order to give him an interest in the commerce of the Colony, Crozat had associated him, as a partner in the concern. At that period, Louisiana was only looked upon, as a great entrepot for Commerce with the neigh- boring countries, but little w^ealth was found within its borders, and the people were in a depressed condition, arising out of the difficulty of fmding a market, for * The customs of Paris, were certain traditionary regulations, which from their antiquity had obtained the force of law, within the pre- voTE or vicoMTE of the City of Paris, and were. I believe, reduced to writing under the reign of Charles the Seventh of France. They are to this day in force in the Province of Lower Canada, and form the whole of the municipal law of that country. They are justly es- teemed, as an excellent legal Code, by both French and English law- yers. OP THE MISSISSIPPI. 109 their small surplus products. Crozat and Cadillac were alive to the emergency ; they loaded a vessel with differ- ent products for Vera Cruz, but the Vice Roy of Mexi- co, acting under that exclusive commercial policy, which was then in full vigor, issued an order to prevent the disembarkation of the cargo, and directed that the vessel should withdraw from the harbour. Notwithstanding the result of this first attempt, Cadillac was not discouraged and resolved to make a trial by land. He chose M. Juche- reau de St. Denis, an intrepid Canadian voyageur, who had been in Louisiana for about fourteen years.* This traveller made two voyages in Mexico, and after having encountered several adventures of a rather romantic character, he returned from his second journey, in April, 1719, having accomplished but little during the excur- sion. Whilst the Governor of Louisiana was seekinor for a market for the surplus products of the Colony, or the goods, which he had brought with him from France, he also sent emissaries to trade with the Natchez and other tribes on the Mississippi, amongst whom they found several Englishmen from Virginia, who were es- tablished in that quarter, and w^ho had as much difficulty in quellijig the turbulent spirit of the Chickasas as their • Le Page Dupratz work. 10 110 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY own countrymen had in their previous relations, with the Iroquois or Five Nations. The same contest, which had been so frequently witnessed between rival tribes in the North, was now being carried on in the South, and whilst some were friendly and actuated by proper mo- tives, in their relations with the Europeans, others were found, who were inclined to pursue a contrary course, and to visit the aggressions of their neighbours, wath un- relenting fury. On the one hand, we find, about this time, (1720) several tribes with the Alabamous and the Chactas making excursions into the Carolinas, and com- mitting the most frightful ravages, whilst on the other the Natchez contemplated the destruction of their French neighbours, which was only prevented by the energy and promptitude, with which the Governor acted. It was on this occasion, that the Natchez found them- selves compelled to make amends for their conduct, for with the force, which De Bienville, who was in com- mand in this campaign, had with him, he made these savages erect a Fort, in the very midst of their village, to serve as a protection for those, whom they had intend- ed to destroy. It was the first act of humiliation, to which the Chief of the Natchez was obliged to submit, and it must have wounded his pride, to find himself re- duced to such subjection, especially for one, who pre- II OF THE MISSISSIPPI. Ill tended to be descended from the Sun, and who bore the name, as a mark of his superiority amongst the tribes, and as a reflection of the light of that great luminary, amongst the benighted nations of America. This Fori, at Natchez on the Mississippi, was built on an eminence of two hundred feet in height and was called RosaL'e, after the name of Madame de Pontchartrain, whor.e husband being a Minister of State, was the guardian and protector of the Lemoine family, from which D NATCHEZ AT THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE "The city of Natchez is about one hundred and twenty miles below the Walnut hills. It is situated on an extremely elevated bank, which recedes from the river, with a very moderate descent. Fronting the river, the blulF is nearly perpendicular, and two hundred 155 HISTORY OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. feet in height, from the surface of the water. Between the base of the bluff and the river, is a space which is level, about six hundred feet wide ; it is used for land- ing ; and is spread over with dwellings, trading houses and shops. From this little village a road is dug out, in a zigzag form, to the summit of the bank. The city is built at some distance from the edge of the precipice, leaving a space for a handsome common. It contains more than three hundred houses, mostly frame, and one story high. Some of those more recently erected are two story and in a handsome style. The houses generally are commodiously constructed for transacting busi- ness, and the free admission of air in the hot season. The prospect from the city is delightful ; commanding an extensive view of the river in both directions. There are two printing offices, issuing weekly papers ; a post office, receiving a mail once a week ; several mercantile houses, and a large number of smaller stores and shops. Great quantities of cotton, indigo, tobacco, and other commodities, are annually shipped from this city, where the accumulation of wealth is pursued with industry and ardour. It is a port of entry, and ships of four hundred tons can come up from New Orleans, which is about three hundred miles, without any other obstruction than the strength of the current." END. *1 li