THE COMMUTER'S GARDEN RECORD a^?! { s o-- Class 3_B41.5_ Book ^Kj3 Copi^htN^ COPWICIIT DEPOSIT. # ^^^\S<4. ^*l \ 1 iVi ii c_ \~-v /^^JrSg "^ KT 1 7 m^K^& ¥\^fid^ ^.^^^-^ I I U 0^^ SfR ^yJS" sa^jQ ^^SV ./ ^ -L, ■ - 'X^, f > ^%^ &^1 '^ ^JV-i -M u \L ■k i t K A, ,^/^ •^> w \ UBnRY of OORSRESS Two Cooles Received JUN 10 1907 /? C»iiyneht Enlry JBMS& CO XXt., No. COPY B. i J • ^ I SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR THE FLOWER GARDEN (In all places where dates are mentioned. New York City is taken as the standard. In reckoning dates for other places, allow a week for every difference of one hundred miles of latitude.) So much of the success of a garden depends upon the soil, that too much care cannot be given in preparing the ground. In starting a new garden, dig out the soil for a couple of feet. In replacing the earth, first put in manure for six inches or a foot, according to the general richness of the soil, and fill up the trench with a mixture of the soil and the manure, with a three or four inch top- ping of the plain soil. If the soil seems very clayey, it is well to mix one-fourth part of sand with it, before replacing it in the ground. In planting perennials, let them grow near enough together to shade the ground, when they are fully developed, but, of course, not so close that the roots will overcrowd each other. The plants are finer this way, the masses more effective, and their foliage, shading the earth, helps the ground to retain the moisture. If you have an unsightly wall or fence in your garden, plant in front of it a row of hollyhocks, sunflowers, dahlias, or golden glow, and transform the blank line into a beautiful hedge full of flowers. Try the efi'ect of planting flowering climbers about your clothes- posts. A strong, galvanized iron hook may be inserted near the top of the pole on which ^.-.^ ^i -^ to fasten the clothes-line, so that the flowers will not interfere with the practical uses of the post. Don't plant when the soil is cold and heavy, either in spring or autumn. The soil must be warm and mellow and dry enough to crumble, for if worked while sticky it will be stiff the whole season. Don't plant tall flowers in front of shorter ones, or they will shade the smaller plants and prevent their blooming. Don't be discouraged if your seeds don't come up, but " Plant, plant again." Don't place too many varieties in a small bed, as big masses of a few flowers are more eifective than small patches of a good many different kinds. Don't let the flowers go to seed early in the season, if you want to keep up the bloom. Don't let the fact that your neighbour has a more successful garden than yours keep you from enjoying your own flowers, — and resolve that, next year, your garden will be better than his ! /rt. Cv > (^ WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN MONTH BY MONTH JANUARY AND FEBRUARY Soon alter the New Year plan out your garden for the coming season. Measure the space you have to plant and then draw out a plan, to scale, of your whole garden. Write down just where you wish to plant each flower, and when you wish to plant several varieties in one spot for a succession of bloom, note this down also. This planning of the garden when the snow is still on the ground, not only makes the spring seem nearer, but will save much time and confusion when the hurried montlis of planting really come. Take this time, also, to study up fertilizers and mixtures for spraying the differ- ent garden pests, so that you can make your garden not only bloom well but keep the plants free from their many enemies. About the first of February, order your seeds, as it will save the rush later on, and make sure of the best the seedman can give you. The first or middle of February, grow in flat boxes in the window ageratum, cosmos, cup and saucer Canterbury bells, pansies, salvia, verbenas, and any tender annual or biennial that you wish to try to make bloom the first year. Some perennials, also, started this way, indoors, will bloom the first season. MARCH The first of the month, clean up the whole garden; tie up the porch vines and make everything tidy about the place. v.. ie5 .^ <^ Make a cold frame of some old boards and a storm sash, and start some early hardy varieties in it. From the middle to the end of the month, according to the warmth of the weather, uncover the bulb beds, but be sure that you keep the straw or litter that covered them, during the winter, near enough to re-cover them, if there is any sign of a frost. March 15th prune the hardy varieties of roses. If the season be an early one plant your sweet peas the end of the month, in- stead of in April. By so doing you will get much earlier flowers, and you can plant a second crop, next month, also, if you feel doubtful about the success of this one. APRIL The first of the month, dig, prepare the soil, and rake the garden. If you did not plant your sweet peas in March, sow them the first of this month, having chosen for them a different situation from the previous year, as they do no thrive so well if planted in the same spot for two successive seasons. April 1st plant new, hardy roses and about April 5th prune the tender varie- ties already in the garden. By the middle of the month it is safe to sow the hardy annuals. If the roots of the perennials were not divided in the autumn, divide them about the 15th of the month, although the autumn is the better time to do it, as 4 ^- r^^ ^1 the roots get started before the frost comes and their growth is not interrupted in the spring. The end of the month, spray the roses with whale-oil soap. MAY May 1st make a second sowing of all hardy annuals in the garden and risk some of the tender varieties. You may fail, but you can then make a second sow- ing, and if you succeed, you have the pleasure of much earlier flowers than other- wise. May 15th make a second sowing of tender annuals. Plant in the garden all the seeds started in doors. If a frost threatens, cover the seedlings with empty boxes, cloth, or news- papers. However, if the plants should be frost-bitten, cover them from the sun, letting them have the full light gradually, and spraying them with cold water at dusk. Toward the end of the month, give the roses a second spraying with whale-oil soap. JUNE Thin out and transplant the young plants. The first of the month set out dahlia roots, cannas, gladioli, and any sub- tropical plants. Peg down petunias and verbenas in order to hide the ground with their straggling stems and to make them grow better. Plant the house azaleas and rhododendrons in the garden. Choose a half shady spot, plunge the pots to the rim in the ground, and give the plants plenty of water, if you wish them to bloom again during the winter. Stalk and tie up all the tall plants, such as lai-kspur, rudbeckia, cosmos, etc. Keep the stakes and the strings from view, tying loosely and not forgetting to train the plants in a position for them to grow in their natural way. JULY If you wish to start hollyhocks and other perennials before the autumn, sow the seed the first to the middle of this month. Plant another crop of quick-growing annuals to keep up the bloom into the autumn. Battle against the weeds and the pests and be sure that you overcome them both. If you have a honeysuckle vine that has aphids on it, spray it with whale-oil soap to remove the pests. Watch the tall-growing plants and tie them up as they need it, being careful not to show the stake and strings. In training climbing plants, it is much better to use a wooden trellis^ as one of wire burns the stems in hot weather. The best time to water the garden is in the evening. Give plenty of water, as a small sprinkling does no good. AUGUST Sow pansy seed during this month if you wish an early spring bloom, next year. The first of the month, make slips of geraniums and heliotrope for the house plants. Plan what bulbs you want for another spring. Stir the ground around all the plants and be sure that they have plenty of water. As soon as a flower withers, remove it, for if you leave it on the stalk, it will only take away the strength of the plant that is needed for new flowers. If you want seeds, however, of course the flower must be left to ripen. In saving the seed, choose the seed from the best plants. Dahlias need frequent watering and tying. They also require constant hoeing and weeding. Try planting some of the annuals for pot culture and have the pleasure of seeing some summer flowers in the house during the winter. SEPTEMBER Fill up the gaps in your perennials by dividing the clumps and get new roots from the nurseries in order to have the plants well started before the frost sets in. j^ PsU Exchange your perennial roots with your neighbours and have the pleasure of sharing your garden with those around you. September 15th, try sowing sweet peas and other hardy annuals. Cover them with straw or garden litter, during the winter, and when the spring comes you will have a much earlier crop of flowers. Transplant peonies that need it and plant new roots for bloom, next June. Pot all plants for house culture during the winter. Plan to have a winter window-box of ageratum. The delicate blue or white flowers will be in bloom for six or eight weeks during December and January. If there is danger from frost, stretch cheese-cloth over the tender plants and you can save their bloom for the Indian summer. OCTOBER, NOVEMBER, AND DECEMBER October is the best time to plant all bulbs. If you have never planted cro- cuses in your lawn try some now. The flowers among the grass are charming in the early spring and have finished blooming before it is time to give the lawn its first cutting. Dig up canna, gladioli, and dahlia roots and store them in the cellar during the winter months. Be sure that the roots are dry when first put away, or the dampness will create a white mould that will eat into the crowns of the roots. The first of November, or whenever the bloom in the garden is past, clean Sl^ m up and burn the old leaves, vines, etc., or they will shelter the insect pests during the winter months. Turn up the soil, give it some enrichment, and make everything around the place ready for winter. The first of December, or after the ground has frozen, cover the bulb beds with straw or garden litter; also all shallow-rooted plants that cannot stand the cold or the thawing and freezing during the winter months. Give some of your own home-raised seed of your choicest plants for Christmas remembrances. Resolve for the New Year that your garden for the coming season will be better planned and better carried out than ever before. '•^^. ^ m GENERAL HINTS FOR BULB CULTURE Bulbs may be planted from September to the first of December, but the best month to put them in the ground is October. In first prepar- ing the bulb bed, dig up the soil for about a foot, putting in a founda- tion of old manure. Be very careful that no manure comes in contact with the bulbs, as it will rot them. To avoid this put a cushion of sand under each bulb when setting it into the ground. Plant the bulbs three to five inches below the surface, according to size — hyacinth, tulips, daf- fodils, and all large varieties should be planted from four to five inches, but the smaller sorts, as the crocuses and snowdrops, need to be set only three inches or a little less below the surface. When the ground has become frozen, cover the beds with straw or garden litter. This covering should be taken off in the early spring, but keep it near the bed, for in case of sudden cold the bulbs must be covered again. About two weeks after the flowers have faded the bulbs will have ripened, when they may be taken up, packed in a box of sand and stored away in a cool cellar until wanted for planting in the fall. If you do not wish the bother of removing the bulbs, they may be left in the beds and flowers planted about them, selecting those that keep their roots near the surface so that they will not interfere with the bulbs. In this case, every three or four years, in early October, dig out all bulbs, turning up and enriching the ^ c^Adf^i^ soil, and then resetting the bulbs, dividing if necessary, and the next year they will bloom as before. Some of the flowers that will grow well in a permanent bulb bed of this kind are ageratum, sweet alyssum, pansy, Shirley poppy, calendula, forget-me-nots, petunia, and candytuft, A LIST OF BULBS FOR THEIR COLOURS WHITE NAME Dcplli to Plant (inches) DUtance Apart to Plant finches) Time in Bloom Height (inches) Crocus (several varieties) 2-3 3 March for three weeks 3-5 Daffodils (several varieties) Hyacinth (several varieties) Madonna Lily Narcissus Poeticus 3-4 5 4 3-4 4-6 6-8 8 5 April — May for four weeks April for three weeks June for four weeks May for four weeks 10 6-12 36 12 Scilla (several varieties) 3 4 March — May for two weeks 6-12 Snowdrops (several varieties) Star of Bethlehem 2 2 2-3 4 March for three wetks May for three weeks 3-9 6-12 Tulips (several varieties) 4 5 April for three weeks 6-12 YELLOW Crocus, Cloth of Gold, and other 2-3 3-4 March for two weeks i'5 varieties Daffodils, Hoop-petticoat Daffodils, Trumpet and other -» 3 3-4 6 4-6 April — May for two weeks April — • May for four weeks 4 12-15 varieties Hyacinth (several varieties) Jonquils (several varieties) Tulips (several varieties) 5 3 4 S 4 3 April for three weeks April — May for four weeks April — May for three weeks 6-12 12 6-12 \ <£, -._--i: A LIST OF BULBS FOR THEIR COLOURS RED \' ^ M E Depth to Plant Distance Apart to Plant (inches) Time in Bloom Height (inches) (inches) Crown Imperials Fritillaria, Scarlet Hyacinth (several varieties) Tulips (several varieties) 3-6 3 5 4 6-8 6 6-8 5 March for six weeks May for five weeks April for three weeks April for three weeks 30 18 12 6-18 i BLUE Crocus (several varieties) 2-3 3-4 March for two weeks 3-5 Chionodoxa or Glory of the Snow 2 2 March for two weeks 6-9 Hyacinth (several varieties) 5 6-8 April for three weeks 12 Scilla (several varieties) 2-3 4 March — May for two weeks 4-12 ^ ) (• \ ?-r^^ a PLANTING TABLES FOR FLOWERS Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials Annuals are all plants growing from seed that flower, mature their seed, and die the first year. Although some varieties do well where they have the sun for only part of the day, yet if possible the situation should be free from shade. Sow the seed in the spring as soon as the ground is dry enough to work freely. After sowing, shake fine soil (a sieve is good for this) over the seed to the depth of about twice to three times the diameter of the seed. If the seed is very fine, in- stead of covering with the soil, merely press the seed down gently with a piece of board. A second sowing of seed should be made, two or three weeks after the first, to make sure against failure and also to provide for a succession of bloom. If you wish to start the seed in the house, plant in shallow boxes early in the spring, filling the boxes with sandy loam, two or three inches deep, with coarse gravel in the bottom of the box to ensure good drainage. Give plenty of water, but do not keep the soil too moist or the seeds will " damp off." A pane of glass placed over the box until the little plants are well started is very helpful, but be sure to remove it occasionally to give air and to prevent too much moisture forming on the underside of the glass. When the plants come out of their seed leaf transplant them into similar soil in other boxes in order that they may have plenty of room. Transplant into the garden, when the weather gets Sfk^^l warm enough, watering often until they are well started, keeping them free from weeds and loosening the soil around the roots from time to time. Hardy annuals grow freely in the open ground and may be planted from March to October, according to the kind of seed, or for early bloom they may be started in the shallow boxes indoors. Half-hardy annuals should not be sown in the open ground until late in April or in May, and the best results are often obtained by starting the seed indoors. Biennials grow from seed one year, bloom the next season, and then die. Some varieties, however, will bloom the first season if sown early indoors. If the seed is sown in the open border, it is well to give the plants a light covering of straw or garden litter during the winter months. When the frost is out of the ground in the spring, remove the covering and loosen the soil around the roots. Perennials bloom from seed the second year and continue for many years ; if sown early in-doors, some varieties will bloom the first year. Hardy varieties need no protection during the winter, but some of the tender sorts should be covered with straw or garden litter. If one wishes to start perennials from roots, instead of seed, these should be bought from the nurseryman and planted in September to get well rooted before the frost comes. They will bloom the following season. ^ H TABLE OF PLANTING The following abbreviations are used : A, Annuals ; hA, Hardy Annuals ; hhA, Half-hardy Annuals ; B, Biennials ; P, Perennials. Where dates are mentioned, New York City is taken as a standard, so that in reckoning dates for other places, a week should be allowed for every difference of one hundred miles of latitude. As a general rule seeds should be planted about twice to three times the depth oi their diameter, but some exceptions to this will be noticed in the following tables. When the seed is very fine, do not cover, but press down gently into the soil, with a piece of board. While many perennials may be grown from the seed, it is often better to buy the roots from the nurseryman in the autumn. There are several varieties that grow so much better by the division of the roots that these have been mentioned in the following tables. I r J •^r^t ^»V f>^...^^ TABLE OF PLANTING When to Sow How F.ir Apart to Thin or Trans- plant (inches) Time in bloom Colonr of Flowers Height (leet; Hints on Soil, etc. Name of Flower I ndoors Outdoors Ageratum (hhA) March May 6 July to Rose, Blue, 2-1 Light rich soil. Seed sown Aug. Sept. for 8 weeks Lavender, White in August will produce plants for indoor pot culture. Alyssum, Sweet (hA) March April 4-6 July to \'ellow. .1. Give good garden soil. When Sept. Sept. for 10 wks. White bloom fails cut back and the plant will flower again. Sow « in Aug. and Sept. for winter bloom indoors. Amaranthus (hhA) March May 6 Aug. to Reds 2-6 Rich garden mould. The (Love Lies Bleeding) Sept. for 6 weeks leaves grow largest in rich soil. The flowers grow best in poorer soil. Antirrhinum (B) Feb. April 8 June to Red, Yel- I2 Rich, well-drained soil. (Snap-dragon) March May Aug. for 6 weeks low, White Aquilegia (P) March May 9 May to Reds, 1-3 Common garden soil, but use (Columbine) July for 8 weeks Pinks, Yellows, Blue, White good turfy loam for the choicer varieties. oP^ -^ -A, TABLE OF PLANTING — Continued Name of Flower When to Sow How har Apart to Thin or Trans- plant (inches) Time in Bloom Colour of Flowers Height (feel) Indoors Outdoors Aster (hA) Feb. April May 12 Aug. to Oct. for 8 weeks Blues, Reds, Pinks, White 2 Rich soil. Put wood ashes around the roots occasion- ally. When the weather is hot and dry, mulch the roots. Balsam (hhA) March May 12 July to Sept. for 8 weeks Reds, Pinks, White 2 Rich, sandy soil and plenty of water. Cut off the side shoots and grow to single stems if you want large flowers. Calendula (hA) (Pot Marigold) March April April 8 July to Oct. for 12 weeks Orange, Yellow I Common garden soil with plenty of sun. They make good pot plants for the win- ter. Calliopsis (hA) (Coreopsis) March May 10 July to Nov. for 12 weeks Brown, Yellow 1-2 1-2 Common garden soil. Ir will sow itself for another year. Campanula (P) (Canterbury Bells) Feb. April May 6 July to Aug. for 8 weeks Rose, Vio- let, Blue, White 1-3 Give good, rich soil. ^ r^ cf-^ 3 ■/^ TABLE OF PLANTING — Continued When to Sow How tar Apart to Thin or Trans- plant (inches) Tin;ie in Bloom Colour of Flowers Height lleet) Hints on Soil, etc. Name of Flower Indoors Outdoors Dahlia (P) Plant out 36 Mid-July for 12 Reds, Pinks, 5-8 Rich, deep soil and plenty of sun. Best to buy the roots weeks Yellows, roots from the nurseryman. June I White Plant roots six inches below the surface. Delphinium (hA) (Larkspur) Feb. April 12 July to Oct. for 12 weeks Red, Pink, Yellow, Blue, White 1-2 Good garden soil. Delphinium (P) (Larkspur) March April 6 June to July for 6 weeks Reds, Yel- lows, Blues, White 1-3 Deep, rich sandy loam. The seeds germinate slowly. Dicentra (P) (Bleeding Heart) Plant root in Sept. 18-24 June for 4 weeks Rose 1-2 Rich, light soil. Should be raised from roots bought of the nurseryman. Digitalis (P) (Fox-glove) Jan. May 18 July to Aug. for 6 weeks Pink, White 2-4 Good garden soil and likes partial shade. ■^- ^ y^ "ii TABLE OF PLANTING — Continued When to Sow How Far Apart to Thin or Trans- plant (inches') Time in Bloom Colour of Flowers Height (feet) Hints on Soil, etc. Name of Flower Indoors Outdoors Forget-me-not (P) April May 4 May to July for 8 weeks Pink, Blue, White h Partial shade and plenty of water. Funkia (P) March Sept. 8-10 July to Aug. for 4 weeks Blue, White li Ordinary garden soil, grow- ing best in a dry situation. Gaillardia (hA) (?) Feb. (for per- ennial varie- ties) April 8-10 June for 6 weeks Red. Yel- low, Mixed, White 1-3 Good, light soil. Blooms until the frost, if the flowers are kept cut. Godetia (HA) April 4-6 July for 6 weeks Red, Yel- low, White ' Ordinary garden soil and plenty of sun. Gladiolus (P) Plant out the roots May I 6-8 July to Aug. for 6 weeks Red, Lavender, White 1-4 Dry, sandy loam. 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IM ^. 1' r . -- -[ - wi -'■ 1 w M «^ ■■- . ^ 'y-i ixyi A-^iii*' ^ VI i^. .t KEC <^ /A W' i/'K i i«r'* -4? 1X ^ „ ,t * ft c:) ^ 'A: V IL \^A. i_^ JL m nii^i -^ m I, ?.' % \ .% '\ r\ b Ai^ 'fl V ./Uv ^-^ 7 '1 Y .,^. '-^ -C-A DATC I PLANT ;^r w 1 •ie.'> ^•''' ^^ ^ ^'^ ^ \J B REC Jk. £ Atiii^i'Yi^ PLANT- V \ i 6t=RO\J w .v., •' i i^.- / 1 \ A^ # y \^ -'-.. 1 1. ;> ^LOOM '')A Ht « ^" "■- ■■^'-■Jt 1^ w / ,(. Tm." j|@^ 'v!i ^j*'' "■ -5 i>> ,(*) ^ « « T i«^ ; PLANT- ^ ING ■ ^ ■ • '■ '"- ( INCt - - ■ '■'f >^^/ /#- ITS ^ I «■■■ ^^ A M I / m <^ ^ .^ % ts RECORD OF Fb' VARIET \ w l \' ~ M — Pi ll\ J h A K\ w : V*- n i ' I JUN 10 1907 '""X &3 L LIBRARY OF CONGRESS QDDmi34D50