ZLwentietb Century Instruction Book 7"^ ARTISTIC Cadie^ Sailor System • . - MW I^ Innnill (.COPYRIGHTED) VIENNA LADES' TAILORING INSTITUTE 5 W. 14th ST.. NEW YORK CITY. U. S. A. / TO TAKE MEASURE. MAY. 7 '902 CLASS? CV XXC. NO. aim** COPY " TO TAKE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER. BUST.— Stand behind the lady— This measure is taken over the most prominent point of the bust and well up over the shoulder blades in the back — take this measure easy, " not tight," just so that the tape line will be smooth — put this measure down I inch more than the tape line calls for — " do not forget this. " WAIST. — Take this measure around the smallest part of the waist tight, and deduct one inch. FRONT. — From collar bone to waist line in front — add 1 inch to this measure. BACK — From joint in neck to waist line. UNDER ARM. — Take this measure well up under the arm and down to the waist line — put this measure down " i inch less " than the tape line calls for. NECK. — Around the bare neck easy. ARM'S EYE.— Around the arm snug just over the point of the shoulder. ARM MEASURE. 1st. From point of shoulder to point of elbow — the hand resting on the chest. 2d. From point of elbow to joint on wrist. 3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the shoulder with the arm bent — take this measure snug. 4th. Around the largest part of the arm below the elbow — take this measure in the same manner. 5th. Around the hand tight SKIRT. — From waist line the length desired. HIPS. — Around the hips "easy" six inches below the waist line. TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER. Be very careful in taking the back and under arm measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm measure nine inches it would indicate a high shoulder and dot 1 should be only three inches from dot 9. Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for a 16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot 1 should be 5 inphes^fro-m dot 9.. This prpportion will apply to othejf meaeureii-^ar: initanca :*tf ".the back measure is 17, then the under arm measure should be 9 inches. ^^"iV:\:l:\-. ■*:.••. TO MEASURE FOR CHILDREN. Tie a cord around the waist tight and press down to the point of mps, and take the measure the same as for adults, except the waist measure, which is taken loose. Stand behind the lady, place the center of the tape line across the back of the neck. Carry the ends for- ward over the shoulder, bringing them back under the arms (have the lady raise her arms slightly), and draw very snug straight across the back and place a pin or mark at the upper edge of the tape line, in the center of back, then measure from the large joint in the neck to the pin or mark. This measure must be taken exactly as the instructions call for. Do not deviate i of an inch. See special instruction for applying this measure. , Measure down line A from line B the height of shoul- der measure and place dot X. Measure up line A from dot X 1 inch less than \ of the arm's eye measure and \ of the bust measure straight out and place dot 1 1 . Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line H to dot 1 1 . Finish the balance as per general instructions. Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have a narrow back in proportion to their bust , measure. Take the width of back measure., starting at the cen- ter of back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measuring to the arm hole (or where the arm hole should come). Use this measure instead of \ of the bust measure in locating dot 1 1 . Take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure. Should the width of back be 6 it would indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. Draft line E begin- ning at dot 2. In drafting the front take the differ- ence between 42 and 36 (the measure used in drafting the back), which is 6. Now take § of 6 — 4 — and add this to 42 would make 46. Now use a 46 bust and 25 waist measure in drafting the front. Use these same propor- tions in drafting for other measures. IMPORTANT.— The measure should be taken ex- actly as the instructions call for — do not deviate to please anyone. The bust, waist and neck measures are taken in even inches — for instance, should the waist measure be 23, put down 23 — should it be nearest 22, put it down 22 — take the bust and neck measure in the same manner. See that the lady stands natural and on both feet. Ask if she has the same clothing on that she intends to wear the dress over, and especially inquire about the corset. To have a perfect fit you must have a perfeet measure. If you have any doubt about the measure take it over again before the lady leaves. Do not use a cord or belt in taking the measure (except for children) as it will make your basque short waisted in back and front. For a very full bust the front measure should be taken from 1$ to 2 inches longer than the tape line calls for. S These measurements are Copyrighted and must be used only in connection with our system. \b~9Q£l LUirev 'J BUST 46 BUST 49 Waist 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 Waist 28 29 30 181 32 33 34 35 36 S'l 38 39 Bust No. ;2 4 12.! m I2i 121 121 121 12 12 U* 1M HI 114 m Bust No. 12| 12| 121 121 12 J L2| 121 121 121 12 12 12 Darts 4 H 2 ? 2-1 H 2 2 ] 1 H 14 H u H il Darts 21 21 2S a* 21 21 2 n 11 l| Is 1J Center Back i i 11 11 \\ 1} H 1* 11 14 If !? 2 21 0. B. 1 1 u i| U 1* J* n '1 2 2 21 Side Body 2 2-; 2;, 2,', 2.', H 2? 23 3 31 31 3{ 31 4 3. B. 21 2,1 21 2J 4 31 31 »i H 34 34 «4 Under Arm 3* H H 34 H H 31 4 4 H H 41 *t 41 *2 U. A. 31 31 34 4 4 4 4* 4i H 44 4 4 4 1 BUST 50 BUST 51 BUST 52 Waist 32 33 ,34 35 36 37 38 39 40 Waist 53 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 I Waist 35 36 37 38 39 40 |41 Bust No. 13 13 13 12112? 121 121 12} 121 ' B. No. 13 13 121 121 121 124 121 121! B. No. 131131 13 13 121 121,12} Darts 21 2 2 li 1- H 1 1 j H, Darin. 21 21 2 11 I), 1* H 11 Darts n 21 2 11 u 1$ ] i Center Back n 11 11 11 n 11 ^ i : ! 2 C B. 11 H 11 H n 11 11 2 1 C. B. 2 2 2 2 21 21 21 Side B6dy 2 i H 3 3 31 31 3J. 31 4 S. B. ( 31 31 31 31 31 34 33 S. B. 31 34 31 ok .^ 31 *i Under Arm 31 H 3f 4 4 4 41 41 *1 U. A. 4 4 41 41 44 41 41 411 U. A. 41 4* 44 44 4 1 41 CHILDREN'S MEASURES. One Dart Only. BUST Waist Bu?t No. Front Waist Center Back Side Body Under Arm BUST 21 22 23 24 19 20 21 5 5 5 4} 1 5 1 54 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 Waist Bust No. Front Wai4 Center Back Side Body Under Arm 19 20 21 22 1 H 51 5 5 4| 51 51 51 1 1 1 1 1 •1 11 2 2 2 21 21 Waist Bust No. Front Waist Center Back Side Body Under Arm 19 20 21 22 23 51 54 54 5J 54 41 51 54 5| 6* 1 1 1 1 1 If 11 2 2 2 2 2 2 21 21 Waist Bust No. Front Waist Center Back Side Body Under Arm 20 21 22 23 51 51 51 51 51 51 H 61 1 1 1 H 11 11 11 2 2 2 2 2 24 51 6 11 2 2 25 27 Waist Bust No. Front Waist Center Back Side Body Under Arm 21 22 23 24 25 61 61 Gl 6 6 54 6 6j 61 63 1 1 11 H li 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 01 ~4 21 1 Waist Bust No. Front Waist Center Back Side Body Under Arm 21 22 23 24 25 26 64 64 64 64 6} 64 54 6 61 6i 7 7 1 1 1? H 11 14 2 2 2 2 2 21 2 2 2 21 21 21 Waist Bust No. Front Waist Center Back Side Body Under Arm 21 61 Dt. 1J n 1 2 2 22 61 r t. «; 1 23 61 ? 2 2 24 61 7 1 2 2 25 61 n 11 2 2 26 61 74 11 21 2 27 63 73 11 H 2 J BUST 28 29 Waibt Waist No. Bust No. Darts Center Back Side Body Under Arm 2) 21 22 23 |2t 25 20 27 28 71 71 71 711 71 71 71 7 7 71 71 71 71 7 7 74 71 8 H 11 11 3 4 1 1 1 1 1 11 n 11 11 2 2 2 2 2 21 21 21 24 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 21 21, Waist Bust No. Waist No. Darts Center Back Side Body Under Arm 21) 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 71 71 74 74 74 74 74 71 71 71 74 73 71 71 71 74 73 8 21 2^ 2 I,', 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 n 11 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 24 24 23 71 H 11 21 24 BUST 30 31 Waist Bust No. Waist No. Darts Center Back Side Body Under Arm 20 21 22 23 24 23 26 27 :H 74 74 74 74 71 ■ 2 74 74 74 74 71 71 71 71 73 •4 71 71 81 71 21 21 21 11 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 n 11 U 2 2 2 2 2 21 21 21 21 9' 01 -2 24 24 ^2 2i 24 21 24 Waist Bust No. Waist No. Darts Center Back Side Body Under Arm 19 8 6? 21 1 2 21 20 121 8 8 H H 1 2 71 2 1 1 2 2 22 8 7J 11 1 2 21 23 8 71 11 1 2 21 21 25 8 71 11 11 1? U 21 21 24' 24 2*1 8 n ii 21 21 27 8 81 11 1 21 21 28 8 84 1 11 2* 24 BUST 31 BUST 32 BUST 33 Waist 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 W. 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Bust No. n ">* 7$ H 74 7J 7* B. No. 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 Darts 2 2 l| 14 1* 1 ft D. H H 13 1J il 1 3 Center Back 3 1 1 1 1 1 H C. B. 4 1 1 1 H H 11 Side Body 2* n 21 2i, 2* 24 24 S. B. 2 2 2 2i 21 21 21 "Under Arm n n 24 n 25 n 21 U. A. 2i a* »J 2| 2i 24 2|! w. B. No. D. C. B. S. B. U. A. 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 84 81 84 81 81 8i 8J 81 2 11 1| 1* H 11 1 A 3 4 j} 1 1 1 U 11 n 2 2 21 21 21 2i 2-i 24 2i 2J 2' n n 2J 2' 2 4 27 " 81 1 H n BUST 34 BUST 35 Waist Bust No. Darts Center Back Side Body Under Arm 19 20 81 1; 1 81 2< 21 9 21 21 8| if 1 2 21 22 81 H 1 21 21 23 81 ljj M 2< 24 81 11 11 n 24 25 8J 1 11 2i 24 26 s n 2| 27 1 2i Waist Bust No. Darts Center Back Side Body Under Arm 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 8i 81 81 21 21 2 11 11 11 If n 1 X 7 n 1 1 1 1 11 11 1? 1* ll H 2 21 21 21 2* 2* 2i 2* 2* 3 2i 2i n 21 2* H 21 3 3 3 BUST 36 BUST Waibt 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 j W. 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 Bust No. 91 91 91 91 91 91 9 9 9 81 81 8! 1 B. No. 9! 91 n 91 91 91 91 91 11 91 91 9 9 9 9 Darts 24 n 2 2 1? 11 H 11 11 1 1 I 1 D. 2i 24 21 21 21 2 11 14 1* H 1 1 R- Center Back 1 1 1 11 11 11 11 11 14 n n 11 C. B. 3 4 1 1 1 1 11 11 H H 14 n 11 2 2 Side Body 2 21 2 21 24 2i n 21 21 n 3 311 S. B. If 2 2 21 2? 2 1 21 3 3 3 3 31 31 34 Under Ann n 24 n n 2| n 2| 3 3 31 31 31 U. A. 24 n 21 21 3 3 3 3 3 3 31 31 3i H BUST 38 BUST 39 Waist 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 W. 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 Bust No. 10 10 10 10 10 10 94 91 94 94 9 9 9 9 B. No. 101 101 101 101 101 101 101 10 10 91 91 9 * Darts 24 24 21 21 2 11 11 14 14 11 11 1 1 1 D. 24 2? 2J 2 1? 11 14 n 11 1 1 Center Back 1 1 1 11 11 11 14 14 14 11 11 11 2 21 C. B. 1 1 1 1 11 11 11 11 H 14 M 11 Side Body 11 21 21 21 24 2i 2f 21 3 3 34 34 34 31 S. B. 21 21 21 2i 24 24 24 2 f 21 3 3 3 1 Under Arm 24. 24 24 24 '21 24 3 3 31 31 34 34 31 31 U. A. 2i 24 24 21 24 21 21 3 3 3 31 31 BUST 40 BUST 41 Waist ^2 23 ,24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 Waist 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 ,29 30 31 32 33 34 Bust No. 104 104 101 104 10 10 10 91 91 91 94 94 Bust No. 101 104 104 104 10 10 10 91 9f 9 1 94 94 94 Darts 24 21 21 2 n 11 14 11 ll 1 1 1 Darts 21 24 24 21 21 2 If If 14 11 n 1 1 Center Back 1 1 11 11 14 14 14 14 14 H If 2 Center Back 1 1 11 11 11 11 n 14 li 1J If 11 11 Side Body 2 2 21 n 24 n 21 21 3 3 31 34 Side Body 21 21 21 21 21 3 3 31 3^ 31 34 34 31 Under Arm 21 21 21 2% -3 3 3 31 31 34 31 31 Under Arm 3 3 31 31 34 3? 34 31 31 31 4 4 H BUST 42 BUST 43 Waist 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Waist 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 60 31 32 33 34 Butt No. 11 11 11 11 104 101 101 101 101 101 10.1 101 101 Bust No. HI HI HI HI 11 11 11 103 101 101 104 104 Darts n 24 24 21 24 2 11 11 Is 14 14 11 1 1 Darts 23 24 21 21 2,' 2 If 1? 14 14 11 1 Center Back 1 u 11 H 11 11 11 14 14 14 n If 11 Center Back 1 1 11 11 11 11 11 14 14 If 11 11 Side Body 2 2 21 21 24 24 24 n 3 31 34 34 34 Side Body 2 2 21 21 24 21 2f 3 3 31 31 31 Under Arm 24 21 H 2 f 31 3* 31 34 3i 31 31 31 31 Under Arm 3 3 3 3 31 31 31 31 34 34 3! 31 BUST 44 BUST 45 Waist Bust No. Darts Center Back Side Body Under Arm 114 21 1 21 3 24 25 26 27 28 4* 24 1 21 3 114 24 11 24 3 111 21 11 HI 2 il 24 n 9 30 31 32 HI 11 11 24 3| HI 11 14 2f 31 11 14 14 21 34 11 14 11 3 3J 3 34 35 Waist 11 11 11 101 li x 4 12 101 1 11 3i 34, 311 31 Bust No. Darts Center Back Side Body Under Arm 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 135 36 12 21 1 2 21 12 24 1 2 21 12 24 11 2 3 12 21 11 n 3 hi 21 ii 24 31 HI 11 H HI if il 24 31 114 If 14 21 34 111 14 H 21 34 HI 11 14 2| 34 niui HI 1 If 311 3l| 34 3! 33 3? Ill 1 141 14 BUST 46 BUST 47 Waist 25 26 27 28 29 130 131 32 33 34 35 36 37 1 Waist 26 27 2S 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 Bust No. 12 12 12 HI 111 111 114 114 114 111 n| 111 11 Bust No. 12 12 12 113 Uf 11? 11* 114 114 HI HI 11 11 Darts Center Back 21 1 21 11 24 21 11 2| n 2 11 2 14 11 H 14 14 14 14 il 11 11 11 2 1 Darts C. B. 21 1 2 1 11 24 11 21 11 2 11 11 11 14 1^ V 14 1* 14 1? il 11 11 11 2 Side Body 2 21 21 21 24 2f 3 3 31 34 3? 3| 4 S. B. 21 24 24 24 24 2! 23 3 3, 3i 3 1 4 4 Under Arm 31 H 31 34 3 J 31 31 31 ?i 4 4 4 41 U. A. 3i 34 34 31 3 1 H 4 4 4 41 41 *4 41 H For long shoulders draft line H Vx inch longer than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 1 . Measure straight down from dot I I and 3/6 inch in and place dot 12. Use letter V to draft line K. Bust ... 3 + Waist -- " Front . _.--.... 14 Back -. - 16 Under Arm 8 Neck _ 11 Ann's Eve - - ' 6 To Locate Dot 12. Arm's Eye Measure. 12, 13 and 14 — 1 15 " 16 — 2 ■ I? << 18—2^ 19 " 20 — % 21 " 22 23/ CENTER BACK. Draft lines A and B -'4' inch fr° m the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table according to size of neck dot 2 down line A fr° m 'i ne B and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 # % 3/8 X ^8 Neck Size 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 »3 h '5 16 17 18 Dot 3 H H 1 iyi i# I -> 8 iy 2 «#| '" : 4 1 ", 2 2 '8 34 inches. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from -i"c A and place dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure down line A from line B the length of back measure and place dot 4. Draft line B straight out from dot 4 about 5 inches. Measure one inch from dot 4 on line B and place dot 5. Measure the distance 'from dot 5 that the table gives for the width of center back and place dot 6. Draft line E beginning 4 inches below line B and drafting through dot 5, ex- tending 34 inch below. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7. Measure }4 inch in towards line A fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8. Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 8. Measure 6j4 inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 9. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. See table on curve. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12. Place the point of curve on dot H and draft line J to dot 12. Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6. Draft line 6 straight down from dot 6. SIDE FORM. Place the long arm of square on line A in the back drafting the short arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12. Measure zj4 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 2 on line N. Measure 2}4 inches from dot 6 on line B and place dot 3. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line A t0 dot 3 extending '_, inch below. Measure the distance given in the table for the width of side body from dot 3 and place dot 4. Measure l/x inch from dot 2 on line N and place dot 5. Place letter fl on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5. Measure I l / 2 inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 8. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6. Measure )/■, inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8. Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8. Measure 1 inch in from dot 3 and place dot 9. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Draft line F from the end of line A to dot 10. UNDER ARM FORH. Measure 3 inches from dot 4 (in side form) and place dot 2. Measure out from dot 2 the width of the under arm form as given in the table and place dot 3. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side form and then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure I }(. inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm form and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7. Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. Place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 1 , Measure 1 \A, inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8. Measure ; inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. Measure 1 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Place letter A orl dot 3 and draft line F to dot H. ■3U&.C C SW\ SViA For long shoul- ders draft line Q y 2 inch more than the p ropor- tionate shoulder measure a n d place dot 22. Measure itf inches in from dot 23 and place dot 24. To Locate Dot io From Dot 8. Waist Measure. 1 8 to 20- . I 2 1 tO 23 1^ 2+ to 27 \y 27 & 28 1^ 29 & 30 . . 2 3' & 32 -- 2% Above 32 inches the same proportion. To Place Dot 1 2 From Dot 1 1 . Waist Measure. 19, 20 and 21 — y inch. 22, 23 and 24 — 34 " 25, 26 and 27 — 1 " 28, 29 and 30 — 1% " Above 30 inches in same proportion. inch FRONT. Draft line A ' %i inches from the edge of goods. Draft line B one 'nch ft" 001 the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table (according to size of neck} under dot 2 on ' m e A fr° m hne B and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 2 »tf z% 2 H 3 iVa 1% 3% 4 ■5 16 3' 3 4J^ '7 3* 4 -'u Neck Size 7 8 9 10 1 1 I 2 •3 14 18 Dot 3 2 2 y *tf 23 8 zy 2 2^| 2 34 2-8 3 TT X Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B frcin line A and place dot 3. Measure Ag inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 4. Measure ' 4 of the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 5. Draft from dot X to dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot Jj, Measure out line D from dot 5 the distance given in the table for Bust num- ber and place dot 0. Measure the length ot under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. Measure the length of front measure down line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7, Measure 2 inches down line E from dot (J and place dot 9. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4. Measure 1 y inches on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10. Measure the width of the dart, as given in the table, from dot 10 and place dot 11. Measure y inch from dot \\ and place dot 12. Measure y inch more than the width of the first dart from dot 12 and place dot 13. Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the first dart and add y? inch, then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the second dart and add . y inch, then measure that distance on fine G from dot 4 and place dot 15. Place the V 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line I using the y mark. Draft lines J and K > n 'ike manner. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 16. Measure y inch in from dot 16 and place dot 17. Draft line L from dot 10 to dot 17. Draft lines BI ) N and parallel with line L. Measure 2 y inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Place letter A on dot 1 and draft line P to dot 19. Measure by inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. Measure I y inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q y inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22 (tee table on curve for distance}. Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D. Measure I y, inches up line R from line D and place dot 23. Measure y inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22. The front can be curved if desired. Place letter E on dot X and draft a curved line T to meet line A I l /i. inches below dot 4. Place letter H on the end of line T and draft to meet line A 3 inches below dot 8. See dotted lines. Important — The front shoulder is drafted y inch shorter than the back and must be stretched to meet the back. TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM DOT WAIST MEASURE. 1 8 to 20 . . . 2 21 " 22 23 " 2 4 - 25 " 26- 27 " 28 z 9 " 3° 3 1 " 3 2 - - Above 32 inches in same proportion. i-io of Waist Measure. inches 2 X 3 VA BIAS DART. Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes : Place dot 9 on line E 1 l /> inches from dot 6. Measure 1 yi, inches out from dot 13 and place new dot 13. Place the y 2 mark on new dot 13 and draft to dot 15. Draft line parallel with line N. Measure 1 y 2 inches straight out from dot ^ and place new dot 7. Measure 3{ inch straight up from new dot 1 and place dot X. Draft from dot X to dot 13. Place the corner of square on dot X the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot X the length of under arm and place new dot 6. Place letter A on dot X and draft line E to new dot 6. Measure 3^ inches straight out from new dot ^ and place dot 18. Measure ; inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Place letter A on dot X and draft to dot 19. Draft the shoulder the same as for a plain waist, making dot 23 2 inches up from line J} and drafting to new dot 6. For a stout lady with high or full shoulders, place a new dot 2 Y\ inch above dot 2 and place a new dot 3 3/j[ inch above dot 3 and draft according to dotted lines. For slender forms take a small plait in the lining at the point of the bias dart. See dotted lines. WAIST WITH ONE DART. Draft the same as for a plain waist down to the darts, omitting line E- Measure )A inch from dot 8 on line f and place dot 10- Place the }4 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 4. Extend line H to meet line A 3 inches below dot 8- Measure 2^ inches from dot 10 and place dot H on line F- Measure 1 inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot 1 1 and place dot 12- Measure straight up from the center of the dart and place dot 14 on line G- Place the V 2 mark on dot \\ and draft line I to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line J. Draft lines L and M straight down. Measure % inch in from dot ^ and place dot 15. Measure }< inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot X. Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line E to dot X. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches down from dot 6- See diagram. Measure 3 inches out from dot 15 and place dot 18- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line P to dot 19. THE TAILOR-MADE DRESS. There is just one way for a gentlewoman to dress when she goes on the street, and that is in a tailor-made suit, without ornamentation, but the perfection of fit and workmanship. There is somathing about the tailor dressed woman that commands respect. For business, shopping, or railroad travel, it has no equal. You have the satisfaction of looking like a lady and being treated as one, no mat- ter where you go. The market is full of Drafting Machines, Charts, and other contrivances for cutting ladies' dresses. Not one of them can properly cut a tailor fitting costume— that can be done only on the material the same that a merchant tailor cuts for a man. First-class ladies' tailors do not use them. You cannot get the same results that you do from an actual tailor system. Investigate before you make an investment. BIAS FRONT. Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B one inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from line B and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. This waist is very effective when the bust is full with a small waist. It can be cut with good effect on a true bias of both lining and material. Fifty (S50.00) dollars Reward will be paid for the conviction of any one infring- ing on any of our copyrights. Dot 2 *Y* -U 3 3 M 5/2 3H 4 4'A Neck size IO I I 1 2 "3 14 15 16 •17 Dot 3 *ti 2}i 3 3*A 3# 3 3 /& 2>% 3 5 /8 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3. Measure y 2 inch straight out from dot 2 and place new dot 2- Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure y^ the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 4- Measure yi. the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 5. Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5- Measure the distance given in the table for bust number out line D from dot 5 and place dot 6- Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Measure the width of the first dart straight in from dot 7 and place new dot 7- Place letter A Y2 inch above new dot 7 and draft line E from new dot 7 to dot 6- Measure the length of front measure down line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line 6 to new dot 7- Place letter E on new dot 2 and draft line F to meet line A one inch below dot 4. Place letter on the end of line F, the edge of curve on dot 8 and extend line F 3 inches below dot 8. Draft a one inch dart half way between dots 4 and 5, extending 2^ inches out. See diagram. Measure l /s the distance between dots 7 and 8 on line G from dot 8 and place dot 10. Measure the width of the second dart from dot 10 and place dot H. Place the corner of the square on dot 4 and draft line H straight out 3 inches, beginning 1% inches from dot 4- Measure straight up from dot 10 and place dot 12 on line G- Place letter A on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12- Turn the curve over and draft line R\ Measure $ l A inches straight down from the centre of the dart and place dot 13- Draft line L from dot 10 to dot 13- Draft line M straight down from dot H. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot X- Place letter A, curve in, on new dot 7 and draft to dot X- Measure 6% inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 14- Measure i}( inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15- Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 15 and draft line M. l/ 2 inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 16- Draft line N straight down from dot 16 to line D- Measure 1% inches up line N from line D and place dot 17- Measure y 2 inch straight in from dot 17 and place dot 18- Place letter D on dot 18 and draft line to dot 6- Place letter K on dot 18 and extend line to dot lfj- MEASURE. Bust 36 Waist 22 Front 14 Back .- --- 16 Under Arm - 8 Neck 12 Arm's Eye — 16 CENTRE BACK. Draft lines A and B H mch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance ' given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from line R and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 H Neck Size J 7 3 , iya 1 1 lM 12 i-H; «3 I 1 /. H l S iM yk 16 | 17 ,8 i7 A 2 2}i Dot 3 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place dot 4. Draft line D straight out from dot 4. Measure 3 + inch out from dot 4 on line D and place dot 5. Measure the distance given in the table for width of center back on line D from dot 5 and place dot 6. Draft line E from dot 2 through dot 5 extending -^ inch below. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and pl* ce dot 7. Measure ' . inch straight in from dot 7 and place dot 8. Draft line f from the end of line E t0 dot 8. Measure 6 ' .. inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. Measure 4!^ inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A ° n dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H (See table on curve.) Measure 1 3 4 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12- Measure >- 2 inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot 13- Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- Place letter V on dot 12, the edge of curve on dot 13 and draft line K from dot 12 to letter J on the curve. Reverse the curve. Place letter N on dot 6 and continue line K to dot 6- Draft line 6 straight down from dot 6- SIDE FORH Place the long arm of square on line A in the back drafting, the short arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out. Measure 2 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 1 on line N Measure 2 inches out line D fr orn dot 6 and place dot 2- Measure '_' inch from dot 2 and place dot 3- Place letter" V on dot 1 the edge of curve on dot 2 and draft line A from dot 1 to letter J on the curve. Place letter A on the end of line A and continue line A % inch below dot 3. Measure out from dot 3 the width of side form and place dot 4 Measure 1 }i inches from dot 1 on line N and place dot 5- Place letter (J on dot 5 and draft line B to dot 4-. Measure 2j4 inches down line B fr° m dot 5 and place dot 6. Place the point of curve on dot 1 and draft line (J to dot 6- Measure 1 inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot ^ and place dot 8- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8- Measure ]/ 2 inch in from dot 2 and place dot 9- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- Draft line P from the end of line A to dot 10- UNDER ARH FORH Measure 314 incnes out from dot 4, *» side form, and place dot 2- Measure the width of under arm, as given in the table, out from dot 2 and place dot 3- Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side brm and then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4 Measure 1 y x inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm form and place dot 6 Place the corner of square on dot 3 tne ed ge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7- Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2- Place the letter U on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- Measure 1 ^ inches in from dot 2 on line D and place dot 8- Measure ; inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9- Measure 1 inch from dot 3 and place dot 10- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. «< 1 T¥ __ J_. O .... 1 J-.,!", i;„o V t» ,t, f 11 MEASURE. Bust 34 Waist — 22 Front 14 Back . — 16 Under Arm 8 Neck 11 Arm's Eye 16 SHIRT WAIST— FRONT. Draft line A 1 Y\ inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B ' mcn from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from line B and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 1 7 2 8 9 ■ 3 4 10 23/a 2 1 1 2^ 1 2 2% *H 3 is 3 z% lV2 3 3 /4 Neck Size 13 14 2^ 16 17 18 Dot 3 2>£ *x 2^ 234 3rt 3>4 3^ Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. Place letter (J on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure I inch less than 3^ of the arm's eve measure down line A fr° m line B and place dot 4- Measure I inch less than 1 ' 2 the arm's eve measure down line A from line B and place dot 5- Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5. Measure the distance of bust number from dot 5 ° !1 line B and place dot (J. Measure straight down from dot B the length of under arm and place dot 7. Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8. Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure 2' 2 inches out from dot 7 and place dot 18. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19. Measure 6 ) i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. Measure I 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A ° n dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q '•< inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22. Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. Measure I l A inches up line R from line B and place dot 23. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. Place letter fl on dot 24 aud draft line S to dot 6, Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22. When a tight fitting lining is desired draft the darts the same as for a plain waist. BACK. Draft lines A an d B 3/( inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A fr° m line B and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 1 I 8 1 iy& 1 1 1% Ijfl IA 8 I 3/8| I ^ '#l»# Neck Size 7 9 i]4 10 I 2 »3 j '4 1 5 1 16 17 |i8 Dot 3 1 j y 1-V1 2 2)4 *x 23/6 2)4 z^i 2 34 2 "si 3 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. Place letter B on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. Draft line B straight out from dot 4. Measure 1 inch from dot 4 ° n line B and place dot 5. Measure out line B fr° m dot 5 the combined width of center-back side body and under arm form and place dot 6, Draft line E, beginning 4 inches below line B and diafting through dot 5, ex- tending 3/£ inch below. MEASURE. Bust 36 Waist . . . 24 Front 14 Back 16 Under Arm 8 Neck 11 Arm's Kye 16 Ivieasure 6 Y 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 5s inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. Measure y± of arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place dot 12. Measure 3.^ inch less than the width of under arm form straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13- Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 13 and measure up the length of under arm and place dot 14- Place the point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot \\. Place letter Q on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 6- Draft lines F and (J the same as for a plain waist. TIGHT FITTING SHIRT WAIST— BACK. Draft lines A and B -/\ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2- Dot 2 1 1^ \yi is/a ^ Neck Size 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 •3 «4 15 16 17 18 Dot 3 15/8 134I I ^ 2 2}4 *X 2^8 **A *# Z Y\ zys 2 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3- Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure the length of back on line A fr° m dot 2 and place dot 4- Draft line D straight out from dot 4- Measure I inch on line D fr om dot 4 and place dot 5> Measure the combined width of center back and side-body on line D from dot 5 and place dot (J- Draft line E, beginning 4 inches below line B and drafting through dot 5, ex- tending yl inch below. Measure 6 J 3 ' inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 9- Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 1 /l inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot \\. 12- Measere yi of arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place dot Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6- Finish 3 inches below the waist line with the same spring as for a plain waist. UNDER ARM FORM. Measure 3 inches on line D fr° m dot 6 and place dot 2- Measure the width of under arm out from dot 2 and place dot 3- Measure the distance between dots B and 12 in the back, then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4- Measure 1 ^ inches straight out from dot 4 ar >d place dot 5- Measure the width of under arm straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and maausure up the length of under arm and place dot 7- Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2- Place letter M on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- Finish 3 inches below waist line with the same spring as for a plain waist. Use the regular shirt waist front, drafting the darts the same as for a plain waist. See dotted lines. CAUTION. This system is copyrighted. Any one using the Tables, Curves, or Instruc- tions in any other manner than with our Tailor System of Cutting will be prose- cuted to the fullest extent of the law. SHIRT WAIST— BACK. i. Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. 2. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on l' ne A from line B and place dot 2' * NECK TABLE. Dot 2 5/8 H H H IO 3 / II 1% 3* I 2 2 '3 2>^ I I 16 */ i7 *K Neck Size 7 1^5 8 9 14 2^i 18 Dot 3 *# 3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on l> ne B from line A an d place dot 3- 4. Place the point of curve on dot 2 an d draft line C t0 dot 3- Measure the length of back down line A fr° m dot 2 arid place dot 4- Draft line D straight out from dot 4- Measure one inch from dot 4 and place dot 5- 5- 6. 7- 8. Measure I y^ inches more than the combined width of Center Back and side body from dot 5 and place dot 0. 9. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5- 10. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 an d l A inch in and place dot 7- 1 1 . Draft line F from dot 5 to dot 7- 12. Measure 6 )4 inches on line B fro™ dot 3 an d place dot 9- 13. Measure 3 1 i inches straight down from dot 9 an d place dot 10- 14. Place letter A ° n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H *£ inch less than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot \\. 15. Measure 2 inches more than J^ of arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place dot 12- 16. Measure J^ of the width of the under arm straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13- 17. Place the point of the curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot J J. 18. Place letter (J on dot 13 and draft line K to dot 6. 19. Measure one inch straight out from dot 6 and 5 inches straight down and place dot 14 20. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft line L to dot 14- SHIRT WAIST— FRONT. 1 . Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth. 2. Draft line B / inch from the end of cloth. 3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 ° n line A from line B an d place dot 2- NECK TABLE Dot 2 7 2 2 8 2 r 8 2 9 ^A 2/2 2 3/ 12 3 13 3/ 14 1% 15 3/ 16 4 17 *H Neck Size 10 2 i ;-; I I 18 Dot 3 2*4 *tt 234 zj4 3 3,! 8 3/ 3% 4. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 ° n line B from line A and place dot 3- 5. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 6. Measure i L , inch less than \? the arm's eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 5- 7. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5- 8. Measure the distance ofbust number on line Dh"om dot 5 and place dot 6. 9. Measure 3^ of the width of under arm form out from dot Q and place dot X 10. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 1 1 . Measure 1 y£ inches less than the width of the under arm form straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8- 12. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in the back then place the corner of square on dot '8 the edge on dot X and measure that distance up from dot 8 and place dot 9- 13. Place letter R on dot 9 and draft line E to dot 8- 14. Measure 3 inches straight out from dot 8 and 5 inches straight down and place dot 10. 15. Place letter A on dot 8 and draft line P to dot 10- 1 6. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 11 on line A- 17. Place letter G on dot H and draft line F to dot 8- 18. Measure 6 'i inches from dot 3 and place dot 20 on line B- 19. Measure 2 ' 2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 20. Place letter A ° n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q y 2 inch less than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22- 2 1 . Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- * 22. Measure 1 y 2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23- 23. Measure J^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 24. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. 25. Place letter K on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22. 26. Place letter D on dot 9 and draft in to dot 6. TWO UNDER ARM SHAPES. For all waist measures up to 32 make the center of back one inch. For all waist measures over 32, make the cen- ter of back 1 % inches. For example take 42 bust and 30 waist. The table gives for the center of back, 1 % inches For the side body, 3 inches. For under arm shape, $}4 inches. Make the following changes : Take from the back l /> inch. " " " side body '_• " " " " front 1 " Total, 2 Add the width of under arm shape, 3^ Making, $}4 " This gives two under arm shapes, 2^ inches each. First under arm shape : Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the follow- ing changes : Place dot 5 1% inches from dot 4. Place letter Q on dot 5 in drafting line A. Place dot 7 straight up from 3 — '2 inch more than tr. length of the under arm measure, and place dot 8 in frorr. dot 2 only one inch. Second under arm shape : Draft the same, placing dot 4 straight up from dot 2 — .' i inch more than the under arm measure. Place dot 5 one inch from dot 4 and place dot 7 straight up from dot 3 the actual length of arm measure. Place dot 8 but one inch in from dot 2. When the style of goods will permit the two under arm forms can be cut on a true bias, both lining, and material with good effect. MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. Bust 42 Waist 30 Front 15 Back 17 Under Arm 8 Neck ij Arm's Eye 17 FOR VERY LARGE LADIES. BACK. Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the center of the back one inch and placing dot 12 but i}& inches from the end of line H. FIRST SIDE BODY. Draft the same as for'a plain waist, placing dot 5 — J /^ inches from dot 2 and placing letter P on dot 5 in drafting line B- SECOND SIDE BODY. Draft the same, drafting a new line N straight out from dot 6 Place dot dot 5 — % inch from dot 2 and place dot 6 only one inch from dot 5. Place letter P on dot 2 to draft line A and place letter G on dot 5 to draft line B- FIRST UNDER ARM FORM. Draft the same as for a plain waist, placing dot 7 — l A inch more than the under arm measure down from dot 3 and place dot 8 only one inch from dot 2- SECOND UNDER ARM FORM. Draft the same, placing dot 4 — l A inch more than the under arm measure up" from dc t 2, and placing dot 7 the actual length of under arm measure up from dot 3- See measure for practice. MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. Bust 50 Under Arm 8 Waist 40 Neck 15 Front 16 Arm's Eye 19 Back 17 Take from the front, ... 1 inch. " " back, 1 Add width of side body,. 4 " " " " under arm shape 4^ " Total 10^ This will give the width of the side body, each 2%. Width of under arm shape, each 2^. PRINCESS— FRONT. i. Draft line A ' H inches from the edge of cloth. 2. Draft line B l /i inch ^ rom the en ^ of" cloth. 3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m line B and place dot 2. 4. Measure the distance given in the neck table (on the curve) under dot 3 on line B and place dot 3- 5. Measure 2/% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X- 6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3- 7. Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A fr° m ' ine B and place dot 4- 8. Measure '4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5- 9. Draft from dot X to dot 5- 10. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5- 11. Measure out line D from dot 5 )i inch less than the table gives for Bust number and place dot (J. 12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot g and place dot 7- 1 3 . Measure ]£ of the width of both darts straight in from dot 7 and place dot 0- 14. Place letter A on dot and draft line E to dot 6- 15. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 8 on line A- 1 6. Place letter A (curve up) on dot and draft line F to dot 8- 17. Measure 2 inches down from dot 6 and place dot 9- 18. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot g and draft line G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4- 19. Measure )i inch more than the table gives (for locating dot 10) on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10- 20. Measure ]4 the width of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot H. 21. Measure one inch from dot H and place dot 12- 22. Measure }{, of the width of the second dot from dot 12 and place dot 13. 23. Measure straight up from the center of the first dart to line 6 and place dot 14. 24. Measure straight up from the center of the second dart to line G and place dot 15. 25. Place the y 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot H. 26. Draft lines I, J and K in like manner. 27. Draft lines L & M and N & to meet 6 inches straight down from the center of the dart. 28. Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20- 29. Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 30. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line V inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22- 3'- 3 2 - 33- 34- 35- Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- Measure 1 y? inches up line R from line D and place dot 23- Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6- Place letter K on dot 24 arid extend line S to dot 22- Stretch the front shoulder to meet the back. For Low Cut Corset line G should be lowered one inch. dotted line. See MEASURE. Bust 36 Waist . 24 Front >5 Back . 16 Under Arm 8 Neck 12 Arm's Eye 16 UNDERARM. 1 . Extend line F 6 inches straight out from dot 7- 2. Measure 1 '4 inches from dot 7 and place dot 2- 3. Measure ^ inch more than the table gives for the width of under arm from dot 2 and place dot 3- 4. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and then measure that distance straight up from dot 3 and place dot 4- 5. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 4 and place dot 5- 6. Measure the distance between dots 2 and 3 straight in from dot 4 and place dot 6- 7 . Place the corner of square on dot 2 the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 2 the length of the underarm measure and place dot 7- 8. Measure }£ of the width of both darts out from dot 2 and place dot 8- 9. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 3- MEASURE Bust Waist . Front 36 24 '5 Back . 16 Und^r Arm 8 Neck . 12 Arm's Eye 16 10: Place letter R on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 8- I 1. Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line C t0 dot 5- 1 z. Draft lines P and E t0 meet 5 inches straight down from dot 2 Use letter A- 13. Measure 2 l / 2 inches from dot 3 and place dot 9- 14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 ar| d place dot 10- 1 5. Place the y? mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot 10. 16. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 10 and extend line F the length of the skirt. PRINCESS— BACK. 1. Draft line A '6 inches from the edge of cloth. 2. Draft line B Vz inch from end of cloth. 3. Measure the distance given in the back neck table (on the curve) under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A from line Band place dot 2- 4. Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3- 5. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 6. Measure the length of back measure down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4- 7. Draft line B IO inches straight out from dot 4- 8. Measure 1^ inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 5- 9. Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of center back from dot 5 and place dot 6» 10. Draft line E fr° m dot 2 to dot 5- ; 1. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 7- 1 2. Place the ' 2 mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line F to dot 7- 13. Place the corner of square (or skirt rule) on dot 5 the edge on dot 7 and extend line F the length of skirt. 14. If fullness is desired in the back of skirt then measure in from dot 5 about 5 or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F- See dotted line. 1 5. Measure 6y 2 inches from dot 3 ° n line B and place dot 9- 16. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 17. Place letter A ° n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 3 ^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 1 . 18. Measure the distance given in the table to locate dot 12 straight down from dot \\ and 3/£ inch straight in and place dot 12- 19. Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- 20. Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6. SIDE FORM. 1 . Place the long arm of square on line A > n the back the short arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out 4 inches. 2. Measure 2 inches from dot 12 and place dot 2 on line N- Measure 2 inches from dot 6 and place dot 3 on line B- Place letter Jj on dot 2 and draft line A to dot 3- 5. Measure y£ inch more than the table gives for the width of side- body and place dot 4 on line B- 6. Measure \% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 and place dot X- 7. Measure 3^ inch from dot 2 and place dot 5 on line N- Place letter fl on dot X and draft line B to dot 5- 9. Measure 1 r ^ inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 5. 10. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot (J. I 1. Draft lines E and J to meet 7 inches straight down from the center 1 2 '3 '4 '5 of line B between dots 6 and 3- Measure l A inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7- Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- Place the yi mark on dot X and draft from line E to dot 8- Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 8 and extend line E the length of the skirt. MEASURE. Bust Waist Front Back Under Neck Arm's Eye 36 24 15 16 8 12 16 PRINCESS— FRONT. 1. Draft line A ' V\ inches from the edge of the cloth. 2. Draft line B Yt. inch from the end of the cloth. 3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) according to size of neck, on line A fr° m line B and place dot 2- 4. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under dot 3 on 1'ne B and place dot 3- 5. Measure 3A inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X' 6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3- 7. Measure 3^ of arms eye measure down line A fr° m line B and place X the arms eye measure down line A fr° m '' ne B and dot 4- 8. Measure place dot 5- 9. Draft from dot X to dot 5- 10. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5- 1 1 . Measure out line D from dot 5 % inch less than the table gives for bust number and place dot (J. 12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 13. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 8 on line A- 1 4. Place letter A (curve up) on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 8- 15. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 9- 16. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4- 1 7. Measure 1 'X inches on line P from dot 8 and place dot 10- 18. Measure Jjj the distance of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot 11. i9- 20. dot 13. 21. Measure one inch from dot H and place dot 12- Measure V" the distance of the second dart from dot 12 and place 7- ine G and [ inch out Measure straight up from the center of the first dart to inch out and place dot 14- 22. Measure straight up from the center of the 2nd dart and and place dot 15- 23. Place the V 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14- 24. Draft lines I, J and K in like manner. 25. Draft lines L & M and N & to meet 6 inches straight down from the center of the darts. 26. Measure 14 of the width of both darts in from dot ^ and place dot 27. Plaee letter A on dot and draft line E to dot 6- 28. Measure one inch out from dot 7 and place dot 18- 29. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19- 30. Place letter A on dot and draft line P to dot 19- 31. Place the corner of square on dot 7 the edge on dot 19 and con- tinue line P the length of skirt. 32. Measure 6 yi inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 20- 33. Measure 1 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 34. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 1^ inch more than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22- 35. Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- 36. Measure 1 V 2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23 37. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 24- 38. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6 39. Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- Stretch the front shoulder to meet the back. For low cut corsets draft a new line G one inch below line G- Set dotted linei. PRINCESS— BACK. 1. Draft line A '6 inches from the edge of cloth. 2. Draft line B li inch fr° m the end of cloth. 3. Measure the distance given in back neck table (on the curve) under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m H ne B and place dot 2- 4. Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3- 5. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4- Draft line D 4 inches straight out from dot 4- Measure 1 1^ inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure the distance given in the table for the width of center back from dot 5 and place dot 6- 10. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5- 6. 7- 8. 9- 1 1. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 7- 12. Place the % mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line F to dot 7- 13. Place the corner of square (or Skirt Rule) on dot 5 the edge on dot ^ and extend line F the length of skirt. 14. If fullness is desired in the skirt then measure in from dot 5 about 5 or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F. (See dotted lines.) 1 5. Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9- 1 6. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 17. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 3^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 \. 7 6 down 19. 20. dot 6- 21. ches u 22. 2 3- 24- line G 25- 3. back— dot 2- 4- 5- Measure the distance given in the table — to locate dot 12 — straight from dot 11 and S/% inch in and place dot 12- Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft to meet line D one inch in from Place the 10 inch mark on dot 6 and draft to meet line K 6 in- P- Measure J^ inch out from dot 6 and place dot 13- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 13 and place dot 14. Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 14 and draft the length of skirt. Hold the end of tape line on dot 5 and draft line H. SIDE BODY. Use the edge of cloth for line G- Draft line H Yz inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance straight down from dot 12 to line D — in the -and then measure that distance down line G from line H an d place Draft line D straight out beginning 9 inches from dot 2- Measure H inches out line D from dot 2 an d place dot 3- Measure Jf inch more than the table gives for the width of side body from dot 3 and place dot 4- 7. Measure V% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 an d place dot 5- 8. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the back and then measure that distance from dot 3 to line B and place dot 6- 9. Place letter V on dot 6 the edge of curve on line D one inch out from dot 3 and draft line A to letter J on the curve. 10. Place the 7 inch mark on dot 3 and draft to the end of line A- 1 1 . Measure one inch out from 6 and place dot 7- I 2. Draft line B from dot 5 to dot 7- 13. Measure 1 )/ 2 inches down line B fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8- 1 4. Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to dot 8- 1 5. Measure y 2 inch out from dot 4 ar >d place dot 9- 16. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 9 an d place dot 10- 17. Place the ]/ 2 mark on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 10- 18. Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot 10 and extend line E the length of skirt. 19. Measure 1 y 2 inches in from dot 3 and place dot 11. 20. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12- 21. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 12 and draft line F the length of skirt. 22. Hold the end of tape line on dot \\ and draft line J. UNDER ARM FORM— BACK. 1 . Use the edge of cloth for line G- 2. Draft line H V? inch from the end of cloth. 3. Measure the distance between dots 5 and 8 m tne side body and then measure that distance down line G fr° m line H and place dot X. 4. Draft line D straight out beginning 8 inches from dot X- 5. Measure 12 inches from dot X and place dot 2 on line D- 6. Measure on line D % inch more than the table gives for the width of under arm form out from dot 2 and place dot 3- 7. Measure straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4 on line H- 8. Measure 3<£ inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 9. Measure y inch more than the table gives for the width of under arm form from dot 4 and place dot 6. 10. Draft line A from dot 2 to dot 5. 1 I. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7- 1 2. Draft line B from dot 3 to dot 7- 13. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- Measure 3 inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8- Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9- Place the corner of square on line D ' }( inches in from dot 2 the edge on dot 9 and continue line E the length of skirt. 18. Measure 1 y 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10- 19. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. 20. Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot H. 21. Place the corner of square on dot 10 the edge on dot \\ and con- tinue line F the length of skirt. 2 2. Hold the end of tape line on line D half way between dots 2 and 3 and draft line J. H- '5- 16. i7- MEASURE. Bust . 36 Waist . 24 Front . '5 Back . 16 Under Arm 8 Neck 12 Arm's Eye 16 For low cut corset the point of the darts should meet one inch below line G. See diagram. PRINCESS— FRONT. 1. Draft line A ' Y\ inches from the edge of cloth. 2. Draft line B /^ mcn from the end of cloth. 3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m l me B and place dot 2. 4. Measure the distance given in the neck table (on the curve) under dot 3 on l' ne B and place dot 3- 5. Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X- 6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3- 7. Measure J4 of the arms eye measure down line A fr° m li ne B and place dot 4- 8. Measure 3^ of the arm's eye measure on line A from line Band place dot 5 9. Draft from dot X to dot 4- 10. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 4- 1 1 . Measure out line D from dot 5 % inch less than the table gives for Bust number and place dot 6. 12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot g and place dot 7- 13. Measure ^ of the width of both darts straight in from dot 7 and, place dot 0- 14. Place letter A on dot and draft line E to dot 6- 1 5. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 8 on line A- 16. Place letter A (curve up) on dot and draft line p to dot 8- 17. Measure 2 inches down from dot 6 ar >d place dot 9- 18. Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot g and draft line G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 5- 19. Measure J5 16 8 12 16 VIENNA WAIST. Draft line A I '2 ' ncn fr°m the edge of goods. Draft line B > 2 inches from the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under doc 2 from line B on line A and place dot 2- Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3- Measure down line A * rom line B 3 /i of arm's eye measure and place dot 4 Measure down line A from line B }A arm's eye measure and place dot 5- Place the corner ot square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5- Measure out line D from dot 5 the distance given in the table for bust num- ber and place dot 6- Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7- Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8- Place letter H on dot 8 an d draft line P to dot 7- Measure y£ inch out from dot 2 an d place new dot 2- Measure « inch in from dot 5 and place new dot 5- Measure 'j the distance of the first dart out from dot 8 an d place new dot 8- Place letter H on n ew dot 2 an d draft to new dot 5- Place letter (J on new dot 5 an d draft to dot 4- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to new dot 8- Place letter H on new dot 8 an d draft to meet line A 5 inches below dot 8- Measure in from dot 7 'he width of the second dart and l / 2 the width of the first dart and place new dot 7- Measure I 1 j inches straight down from 6 and place dot 9- Draft line E fr° m dot 6 to 9- Place letter A on new dot 7 an d draft to dot 9- Measure 6 l/ 2 inches out line B from dot 3 an d place dot 20- Measure 1 3_j^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21- Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the pro- portionate length of shoulder and place dot 22- Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. Measure 1 ' 2 inches up line R from line D an d place dot 23- Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 24- Place letter D on dot 24 an d draft line S to meet line B 1 inch in from dot s Place letter K ° n dot 24 and continue line S to the end of line Q. Extend line A 1 'J inches up from line B and place dot 25- ' Measure 5 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26- Measure \£ inch out line B fr° m line A and place dot 27- Place the corner of square on dot 27, tne edge on dot 26 ar| d draft line f? out about 20 inches. Place letter B on new dot 2 and draft line C through dot 3 t0 line T. Measure on line T from line C the length of back and place dot 28- Place the corner of square on dot 28, the edge on line T and draft line \J out 10 inches. Measure out line U from dot 28 ' inch less than the combined width of cen- ter-back side body and under arm forms and place dot 29- Place the corner of square on dot 22, the long arm parallel with line X and place dot 30 the distance given in the table according to arm's eye measure. Arm's eye measure 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 Dot 30 2 3H 1% 3H Place the corner of square on dot 30 the long arm parallel with line T and measure out from dot 30 — % mch more than the width of under arm form and place dot 32- Place the corner of square on dot 29, the edge on dot 32 and measure up the distance between dots 6 and new 7 (in the front drafting) and place dot 33- Place letter A on dot 29 an d draft line V to dot 33- Place the X point of curve on dot Jj an J draft line }/f to the end of line Q. Bone the lining before sdtching to the outside material. Darts can be made if desired, but they must be made yi inch less on each dart than the table calls for and omit making new dot 7- SEAMLESS WAIST. Fifty ($50 00) dollars Rewa.d will be paid for the conviction of any one infring- ing on any of onr copyrights. MEASURE Bust 34 Waist . 22 Front 14 Back . 16 Under Arm 8 Neck ii Arm's Eye •5 Use the fold of goods for the center of back. Draft line B io inches from the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 2 (on the curve) from line B on line A a °d place dot 2- Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 ' on the curve) on line B h"om line A an d place dot 3- Draft line C fi' om dot 2 t0 dot 3- Measure 7 inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 4- Measure the length of back down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 5 Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 5- Measure 4 inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 6- Measure 6 ) ■', inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 7- Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- Place letter A on dot 3» the edge °' curve on dot 8 and draft line E 'he proportionate length ot shoulder. Measure ; inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 10- Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge on dot 10 and measure from dot 6 — y 2 inch more than j£ of bust measure and place dot H. Draft line F from dot 10 to dot H- Place the corner of square on dot H, the short arm on line F and draft line G up i/J of the arm's eye measure. Place the edge of square on line (J and draft line H in from the end of line 6. Measure down line G fr° m ''ne H the distance given in table for front neck under dot 2 and place dot 12- Measure 3/g inch in from dot 12 and place dot 13- Measure in on line H from line G % inch more than the neck table gives under dot 3 and place dot 14- Place letter B on dot 13 and draft line I to dot 14- Place the corner of square on dot 12 and extend line G down one inch more than the length of front and place dot 15- Place the corner of square on the end of line D, the edge on dot 15 and measure 4 inches less than l / 2 of waist measure and place dot 16- Place letter F on the end of line D and draft line J to dot 16. Place letter R on dot H and draft line K to dot 16 Draft line L fr° m dot H to dot 13. Measure b}A inches in from dot 14 on line H an d pl a ce dot 17- Measure 1 3 + inches down from dot 17 and place dot 18- Place letter A °n dot 14, the edge of curve on dot 18 and draft line M the proportionate length ot shoulder. Draft line N parallel with line G from the end of line M to line F. Measure up line N • % inches from line F an d place dot 20- Measure 1 inch out from dot 20 an d place dot 21- Place dot 22 on line F l A the distance between dot 10 and line N. Place letter B on dot 21 a nd draft line to dot 22- Place letter T on dot 21 and extend line to the end of line ffl. Place the point of curve on dot 22 and draft line P to the end ot line E. Place the edge of square even with line E an d measure in from dot 3 the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 an d place dot 23- Place the corner of square on dot 23, the edge on line E a nd draft line Q 1 o inches from dot 23- Measure on line Q from dot 23 the distance in the front neck table under dot 2 and place dot 24- Place letter B on dot 24 a nd draft line R to dot 3- Place letter G on the end of line E and draft line U to the end of line Q. 0) "B 3 /~c~~ H/ IL^ JO *1 /S J/2 mS t'J x\ S T> r MEASURE. 8 Years. Bust 28 Waist 24 Front 9 y 2 Back 11^ Under Arm 51/ Shoulder 4 Neck 10 Arm's Eye 1 3 In measuring for children, tie a string around the waist and push down to the point of hips and use as a guide for waist-line When drafting for children, place line A 1 1-2 inches from the edge of goods and omit dot 5. Also draft the shoulder 1-2 inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. BERLIN WAIST. Draft lines A and B Y\ mcn from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from line B and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 *A H H X H Neck Size 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 13 H 15 16 17 18 Dot 3 u n 1 iyi '# in **/* 15/8 1% I# 2 2'8 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 out nne B from lir: A and place dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure the length of back down line A fr° m dot 2 and place dot 4. Draft line D straight out from dot 4. Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure the distance given in table for centre-back, side-body and under arm from dot 5 and place dot 8. Draft line E. beginning 4 inches below line B and draft to dot 5- Measure 6 vX inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- Place letter A on dot 3, the e dge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the proportionate length of Moulder and place dot \\. Measure M the arm's eye straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12. Measure 3^ inch less than the width of under arm straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13- Place the corner of square on dot 8, the edge on dot 13 and measure up from dot 8 the length of under arm and place dot 14. Place the point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot H. Place letter M on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 8- When drafting for children, draft line A ' Y? inches from the edge of goods and omit dot 5- Draft the shoulder y^ inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. CHILDREN'S FRONT. Use the fold of goods for line A. Draft line B yi. mcn fr om the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from line B and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 nti 2 **■ 2*4 2l{ 3 3^ Neck Size 7 8 9 10 11 1 2 13 Dot 3 1*4 i|4 2 2}i «# 234 ^ Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 out line B from line A and place dot 3- Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 3/ of arm's eye down line A from line B and place dot 4- Measure y 2 of arm's eye down line A fr° m line B and place dot 5- Draft line D straight out, beginning 4 inches from dot 5- Measure the distance of bust number out line D from dot 5 and place dot 6- Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Measure the length of front down line A from dot 2 an d place dot 8- Draft line F from dot ^ to dot 8. Measure outline F from dot 8. the distance given in the table for front waist number and place dot X- Draft line E from dot 6 to dot X- Measure ij4 inches on line E from dot 6 and place dot 9- Place the corner of square on dot 4> the edge on dot 9 and draft line 6 ou t 3 inches, beginning 2 inches from dot 4- Measure z x A inches on line F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10- Measure the width of dart (as given in the table) from dot 10 and place dot |1. Measure straight up from the center of the dart and place dot 12 on line Q. Draft lines H and I the same as other darts. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 6*4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20- Measure I r/ inches straight down from dot 20 ano " place dot 21. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21, and draft line Q j4 inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D- Measure i inch up line R from line D an d place dot 23. Measure i inch straight in from dot 23 aI >d place dot 24. Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. SAILOR BLOUSE For Ladies or Children. FRONT. Draft a plain front and add 4 inches to the waist line from dot ^ and draft line E to dot 6. Omit darts and cut 6 inches below the waist line. BACK. Draft the Berlin back and add 2 ]4 inches to the waist line from dot 8 and draft line H to dot 14- Cut 6 inches below the waist line. FOR VERY FULL FORM. This diagram shows the changes necessary for a very full bust and narrow back. The dotted lines show the ordinary drafting, the heavy lines showing the changes MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. Bust Waist Front Back - . - Under Arm Height of Shoulder Width of Back Neck Arm's Eye 42 z 5 17 17 9 6 '5 '9 For a regular form the width of the back should be j/(, of the bust measure. This width of back is 6 inches, indicating that the back is for a 36 bust meas- ure. Take a 36 bust measure and a 25 waist measure for drafting the back. Now take the difference between 36 (the measure that you are using) and 42 (the actual measure) which you will find to be 6. Take 2 /i of 6, which would be 4, and add to the regular measure — 42— -which would make 46. Now use a 46 bust measure and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. Measure 1 y^ inches up from dot 2 ° n line A and 1 inch straight out and place new dot 2. Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C extending 1 ^£ inches above dot 3- [See diagram.] Place dot X Y inch straight in from dot 4. Plate letter H on dot X and draft to new dot 2. Place the 5 inch mark on dot X an d continue the curved line x / 2 inch out from dot 8, meeting line A about 5 inches down. [See diagram.] Take alj^ inch dart in the lining at dot 5. [See diagram.] In locating the darts measure from the curved line in, locating dot 10. Draft the darts so that the point meets one inch above line G. Measure I j4 inches straight up from dot 22 and draft the shoulder from the end of line C V\ inch longer than the proportionate shoulder measure and baste a ^ inch dart in the center of the shoulder and remove the bastings after the shoulder is stitched. [See diagram.] Also baste a I inch dart in the arm's eye [see diagram] and remove the basting after stitching. B. _, the measure around the arm below the shoulder and place dot 9- Measure shoulder on line F from dot 9 and place dot 10 Measure I inch less than the measure around the arm below the shoulder on line F fr° m dot 8 and place dot \\. Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot 12. Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot H and place dot 13. Place the point of curve on line F 1 inch in from dot 9 and draft line Q to dot 7- Place the X point of curve on line F • inch out from dot 9 and draft line H to dot 12. Place letter F on dot 12 and draft line \ to dot 13. Draft line J from dot 13 extending 2 ! 2 inches below dot 6. Measure l 2 inch straight in from the end of line J and place dot 14. Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line K t0 dot 14 Place letter R on dot 14 and continue line K t0 [ he end of line (J- Allow seams on lines D, E, J and R\ Cut on lines C, 6, H and I. UNDER PART. Draft lines A and B l A inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure )A the hand measure on line B from line A and place dot 2- Measure 1 y inches on line A fr° m H ne B and place dot 3- Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line C ' 2 inch more than ^i of hand measure from dot 3- Measure y? inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A from line B and place dot 4- Measure I 1 - 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure y 2 inch more than y the measure around the arm below the elbow straight from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3- Measure \ l {, inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow trom dor \ on line A and place dot 7- Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- Measure I \ 2 inches on line A h" om dot 7 and place dot 8- Measure y inch more than y the measure around the arm below the shoulder out from dot 8 and place dot 9- "lace letter K ° n dot 7 and draft line F t0 dot 9- Draft line G fr° m dot 9 to dot 6- Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line H to the end ot line (J- Allow seams on lines D, E, G and H Cut on lines C and f. This sleeve is gathered at the elbow (or the fullness can be removed. Sti Jotted lines). Lay the sleeve smooth on the table, told the top over aoout 3 inches from the elbow up and from the hand up to the elbow about 2 inches. Now bring the fullness together at the elbow, taking up about 2 inches in space and run in a gathering thread. See that dots 5 come together and baste up and down from dot 5- THE PRATT SLEEVE. Draft lines A and B H inch from the ed g e and end of cloth ' Measure out line B from line A ',■ the hand measure and place dot 2. inches and place dot 3. inch more than the measure from elbow to SLEEVE MEASURE. Shoulder to Elbow l * Elbo(V to Wrist 10 Around Arm below Shoulder ' ' Around Arm below Elbow ' ° Around Hand - Measure up line A from line B ' } Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- Measure up line A from line B '.' u rist and place dot 4- Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure straight out from dot 5 1 % inches more than > 3 ot the measure around the arm below the elbow and place dot 6- Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3. Measure up line A from dot 4— 4 1 -' inches less than the measure ""° m sh ° U ' der to elbow and place dot 7. Place etter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. Measure up line A from dot 7—5 % inches and P lace dot 8 - Draft line F straight out from dot 8. , Measure out line F from dot 8 > inch less than >, the measure around arm below shoulder and place dot 9. , , Measure out line F from dot 8 I % inches less than the measure around arm below shoulder and place dot 10. .«.,-., in Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\ Place the point of the curve on line F * inches in from dot 9 and draft line G Sate the X point of the curve on line F * inches out from dot 9 and draft lineH to dot 11. . \ ■ Place letter H on Jot 11 and draft line J to dot b. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 2 Allow for seams on lines D, E, J and K Cut on lines C, G and fl UNDER PART OF SLEEVE. Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of cloth Measure out line B from line A V2 the hand measure and place dot 2. Measure up line A from line B • % inches and place dot 3. Place the corner of the square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2 and draft line C 1 , inch less than J . of hand measure from dot 3. . "Measure up line A from line B % inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist and place dot 4. , , , . , „ _ Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure straight out from dot 5 '2 inch less than % the measure around arm below elbow and place dot 6. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3 Measure up line A from dot 4-4 % inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow and place dot 7. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. Measure up line A from dot 7 ^2 inches and place dot 8- Measure straight out from dot 8 % inch less than V, the measure around urn below shoulder and place dot 9. Place letter K on dot 7 and draft line F to dot g. Place letter W on dot 6 and draft line G '° d °t 9. Place letter A on line Q , inch above dot 6 and draft line H to the end of "aL for seams on lines D) E, G and H - Cut on lines C and F. For Cloak or Coat.-Add ■ inch to the first and second measure, .round arm una y 2 inch to the hand measure. is ca «N CO -$ pr- --^^ "W ip G---^ m Sm ■& / * / u •V /tu a/S M O < / w \ /* * S i \ > \ a) \ i f --^\ 0\ < J i\ 1 * 1 w -v\ 1 mark on dot 6 and draft line R t0 dot 2- Allow for seams on lines D> E> J and R. Cut on lines (J. 6 and H- UNDER PART OF SLEEVE. Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure out line B from line A yd the hand measure and place dot 2- Measure up line A from line B ' ^2 inches and place dot 3- Place the corner of the square on dot 3> the edge on dot 2 and draft line C y% inch less than y 2 of hand measure from dot 3- Measure up line A from line B y inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist and place dot 4- Measure I y 2 inches siraight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure y 2 the measure around the arm below the elbow straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6- Place letter JJ on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3- Measure 4 y inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow up line A from dot 4 and place dot 7- Place letter R on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- Measure 2 y 2 inches up line A fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8- Measure y 2 inch less than y 2 the measure around the arm below the shoulder out from dot 8 and place dot 9- Place letter K on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 9- Place letter yjf on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 9- Place letter A °n line G • inch above dot 6 and draft line H to the end of line C- Allow for seams on lines D. E> G and H- Cut on lines C and F- For Cloak or Coat. — Add 1 inch to the first and second measures around arm and y 2 inch to the hand measure. SLEEVE MEASURE. Shoulder to Elbow- 14 Elbcv to Wrist 10 Around Arm below Shoulder 11 Around Arm below Elbow 10 Around Hand 8 MEASURE FOR PRACTICE 8 YEARS. Shoulder to Elbow • - 9% Elbow to Wrist 7 J4 Around Arm below Shoulder 8 y 2 Around Arm below Elbow - - 8 Around Hand 7 CHILD'S SLEEVE— TOP. Draft lines A and B % inch from edge and end of cloth Measure % inch more than % the hand measure on l.ne B horn line A and Pla Me d asureShe distance given in the table under dot 3 (according to length of sleeve) on line A fr° m line B and place dot 3. TABLE. Length of Sleeve Dot 3 Dot 5 Dot? DoTl2~ 13-14 ,5-16 *% ■ 3 4 1' 17-n lU VA *X 19-20 »# ■ # Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. Measure 1 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A ^ line R and place dot 4- ,. 1 u r Measure the distance given in the table under dot 5 (according to length ot sleeve ) straight from dot 4 and place dot 5. ■ Measure \ inches more than * the measure around the arm below the elbow straight from dot 5 and P ,ace dot 6- Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3. Measure the distance from shoulder to elbow (Jess the distance given m the table under dot 7) on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8. Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 5. Measure 1 inch more than the table gives tor dot 7 on lme A from dot 7 and place dot 9. Draft line F straight out from dot 9. c u„,,u Pr Measure . % inches more than ]/ 2 the measure around the arm belou shoulder " KIT? VZL^lrt^t arm below the shoulder on line F from ^ Measure £l£i *- » *• ■**> — * 12 straight down from dot 1 1« W^of the curve on line F . inch in from dot 10 and draft line G to dot 8- _ , i 3^ 3?4 3^8 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3- Measure y, the arm's eye measure on line A fr° m line B and place dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line B straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5. Measure 1 inch more than the bust number on line B fr° m dot 5 and place dot 6. Measure Ja inch less than the under arm length straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure y? inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line p to dot 7. Measure J4 inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 on line F *nd place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X. Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot 6 and measure up the length of under arm and place new dot 6. Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line B. Measure 2ji inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measure 5 inches straight down dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line M to dot 17. Measure / inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25. Measure / inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26. Draft lines T and U t0 meet line A 4 inches below dot 2. Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C t0 dot 3 ( use the round edge of curve). Measure 6j4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20. Measure 7.V2, inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 3/£ inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22. Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line B. Measure 1 1 /> inches up line R from line B and place dot 23. Measure I inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line B and draft line S to new dot 6. Place lettei K ° n dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22. Draft line W from dot 26 to the edge of goods. CLOAK NO 3. Draft line A \Yz inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B one inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 *% iU 2 2% *y> 2 3/ 3 3% 3^ 3Va 4 4X Neck size 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 13 M 15 16 17 18 Dot 3 *# *tt 2 3/ 2% 3 3# 3% 3 J a 3% 3^8 3* 3 7 « Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3- Measure one inch less than 3^ of the arm's eye measure down line A from line Band place dot 4- Measure }4 the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line B straight out, be- ginning 7 inches from dot 5- Measure one inch more than the table gives for bust number on line B from line A and place dot 6- Up B 3 27 2 2 i 2& 7 Vn 2/ V R s] / \ 23 , y24 -^D 5 \ 6 \ ^iH- 4 \ '/ V A XJLZ -h— ~E_ ^— —Jig_ * A 1 / 3 fl7 No. 4. MEASURE. Bust 36 Waist 24 Front 14 Back 16 Under Arm 8 Neck _ 1 z Arm's Eye 16 Measure J^ inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure yi inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7- Measure % inch less than the first dart in fiom dot 7 and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X- Place the short arm of square on dot 9, the edge on dot 6, and measure up the length of under arm and place new dot 6- Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line D- Measure one inch down line E from line D and place dot 10- Place the corner of square on dot 4, he edge on dot 10 and draft line G out 3 inches, beginning 3 inches from dot 4- Measure on line G Yz the distance between dots 4 and 10, and place dot H. Place the corner of square on dot H, the short arm even with line G and place dot 12 on line F at edge of square. Measure j£ of the first dart each side of dot 12 and place dots 13 and 14- Place the 2-inch mark (on the curve) on dot 13 and draft line H to clot 11. Reverse the curve and draft line I. Place the short arm of square on line G, the edge on dot 13 and draft line J. Draft line K in like manner. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16- Measure ; inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17- Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line M to dot 17- Measure 6^ inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 20 Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 3^ -inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22- Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D- Measure \)i inch up line R from line D and place dot 23- Measure one inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of the curve on line D and draft line S to new dot 6- Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22 Measure y inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25- Measure % inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26- Draft lines I and U to meet line A 4 inches down from dot 2- Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round edge). Measure 2 inches in on line B from line A and place dot 27- Draft line V from dot 26 to dot 27- Place letter P on d it 27 and draft line W to meet the edge of goods 7 inches below line B- CLOAK NO. 4. Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B 1 '-j inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 <# * 3 A 2 »tf 1% 234 3 1% 1% 3H 4 4 '4 Neck Size 7 8 9 10 1 1 I 2 l 3 H '5 16 '7 18 Dot 3 2% 2? 8 234 2j4 3 3 l A 1% iV& 3% 3# 3% 3'A Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3. Measure 1 inch less than 3/£ of the arm's eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 4. Measure y, the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 7 inches from dot 5. No. 5. Measure I inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust number on line D from dot 5 and place dot 9. Measure \ 2 inch l ess than the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure V 2 inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. Place letter H °n dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure '4 inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 on line p and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X. Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot 6 and measure up the length of under arm measure and place new dot 6. Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line D. Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot X an d draft line Q out 3 inches, beginning 3 inches from dot 4. Measure I- 10 of the waist measure on line F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10. Add \- 2 ' inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance from dot 10 and place dot H. Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add y 2 inch, then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14. Draft lines J and R to meet 1 2 inches below the center of the dart. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measuure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 17. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line flj to dot 17. Measure Jj£ inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25. Measure y^ inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26. Draft lines T and JJ to meet 4 inches below dot 2. Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round edge). Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. Measure 2 y 2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A ° n dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q -'4 inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22. Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to l' ne D. Measure 1 V 2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S to dot 6. Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22. Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line B and place dot 27. Draft line V from dot 26 to dot 27. Place letter P on dot 27 and draft line }jf to meet the edge of goods 7 inches down. CLOAK NO. 5. Draft line A 3 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B ' l /2 inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 ° n line A and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 *% i% *\*x 2 14 *H 3 1% 3^ 3H 4 \% Neck Size 7 8 9 | lo 1 I 1 2 '3 H •5 16 17 18 Dot 3 2j4 *H 2ji 2 7, 8 3 3*A 3 U' 3# VA 3H *H 3H Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 ° n line B from line A and place dot 3. Meaure r, inch less than -* 4 of the arm's eye measure on line A fr° m line B aivj place dot 4. REINACH'S LIST OF IMPORTED JOURNALS FOR DRESSMAKING Price per Price per Year 6 months LA MODK ARTISTIQUE With Albums -IS- 00 2 4- 00 The same without Albums 20.00 12.00 LE LUXE WIENER CHIC COSTUME ELEGANT, I. COSTUME ELEGANT, II. LE GOUT PARISIEN CHIC PARISIEN, I. CHIC PARISIEN, II. 24.00 14.00 12.00 7.00 I 2.00 7.00 6.00 3-5° Single Number 8.00 2.50 12.00 7.OO 6.00 3-5° FOR LADIES TAILORING MODEZEICHNER, I. 22.00 12.00 MODEZEICHNER, II. 12.00 7.00 FACON TAILLEUR 15.00 8.50 SCHNITT-MODELLE 15.00 8.50 FOR SILK WAISTS BLOUSEN ALBUM 6.00 Single Number 2.00 Measure ]4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from hne B and p' a( - e doi [), Place the corner of square on dot 5 aR d draft line D straight out, beginning 7 inches from dot 5. Measure V, inch less than the table gives for bust number on line D fr° m dot 5 and place dot 6. Measure 1 ' 2 inch less than the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure the length of front on line A fr° m dot 2 and place dot 8. Place letter H on dot 8 an d draft line F to dot 7. Measure r 4 inch less than the width of the first dart straight in from dot 7 and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 9 an d draft letter E to dot 6. Measure >_: inch down line E fr° m hne D an d place dot 10. r*lace the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 10 a nd draft line G out 3 inches, beginning 3 inches from dot 4. Measure 1-10 of the waist measure on line F fr° m dot 8 an d place dot H. Messure ■ _. inch more than the width of the second dart from dot H and place dot 12. Measure the distance between dot 8 a °d the center of the dart and add yi inch and then measure that distance on line Q from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the K mark on dot H and draft line H to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft I from dot 12 to dot 14. Draft lines J and K from dots 12 and 14 to meet 12 inches below the center of the dart. Measure 6*4 inches oh line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 20. Measure zd place dot 25- Measure yi inch in from dot 2 ar >d place dot 26- Place letter C on dot 25 a °d draft line C to dot 3- Draft lines T a nd U fr° m dots 25 and 26 to meet 4 inches below dot 2- Draft line F straight out from dot 7- Measure M inch on line D from 'dot 6 an d pluce dot 27- Measure % inch less than the under arm length straight down from dot 27 and place dot 28- Place letter H on dot 27 a nd draft line \J to dot 28- Measure 2 3^ inches more than the bust number on line D from dot 5 an d place dot 29- Measure straight down from dot 29 an d p' a ce dot 30 on line f. Place letter H on dot 30 a "d draft line W to dot 29- Measure *4 inch in from dot 29 and place dot 31- Place the corner of square on dot 30, the edge on dot 31 and measure up the length of under arm and place dot 32- Place the letter A on dot 32 a "d draft to meet line W 3 inches down from dot 29 Place the point of curve on dot 32 an d draft line X to dot 27- Measure 2 inches out from 30 an d place dot 33- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 33 and place dot 34- Place letter A on dot 30 and draft line Y to dot 34- Use the y 2 mark to draft lines L and M from dots 9 and 28 to meet 4 inches down from dot 7- Measure 2 )A inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 35- Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 4 and place dot 36- Place letter J on dot 35 the edge of curve on dot 36 and draft line N tc do: 36, beginning 1 inch above letter J. Continue line N straight down from dot 36- Draft line from dot 26 to the end of line N- CLOAK BACK. Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2- © NECK TABLE. MEASURE. Bust - 36 Waist 2 2 Front 14 Back 16 Under Arm 8 Neck 12 Arm's Eye 16 Dot 2 7 8 9 3 A y& A X H N S/8 H Yx Neck Size, 10 I ! 1 2 2 13 2}i 14 15 16 17 18 Dot 3, iji ^A iji *X 2- : 8 *% 2 5/8 *ti Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure the length of back down line A from line B and place dot 4- Draft line D straight out from dot 4- Measure \){ inches from dot 4 on line D and place dot 5- Measure y\ inch less than the table gives for the width of centre back from dot 5 and place dot 6- Draft line E from dot 2 extending one inch below dot 5- Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line E and place dot 7- Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 7- Draft line G straight down from dot 7- Measure 6' 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9- Measure 3>_. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of carve on dot 10 and draft line H <^-inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. Measure 2% inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12- Place point of curve on dot H and draft line J to dot 12- Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K> extending one inch below dot 6- SIDE BODY. Place the long arm of square even with line A in the back, the short arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12- Measure 3^ inches on line N from dot 12 and place dot 2- Measure 3 1 / inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 3- Place letter P on dot 2 and draft line A, beginning yl inch above dot 2 and extending one inch below dot 3- Measure '4 inch less than the table gives for the width of side body on line B from dot 3 and place dot 4- Measure one inch on line N from dot 2 and place dot 5- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5- Measure two inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 6- Place the point of curve on the end of line A and draft line C to dot 6- Measure ]/? inch from dot 4 on line D and place dot 7- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8- Draft line L from the end of line A to line K in the back. UNDERARM FORM. Measure 3 inches on line B from dot 4 (in tie side body) and place dot 2- Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under arm from dot 2 and place dot 3- Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body, and then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4- Measure i}( inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm and place dot 6- Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7- Place letter Q on dot 5 aid draft line A to dot 2- place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- Measure 1 ^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9- Measure i}{ inches out from dot 3 and place dot 10- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot 11. S 2 7 2^ *~ HZ line A line B SAILOR COLLAR. Draft line A i ' ncn from the edge of goods. Draft line B 5 inches from the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 2 on from line B and place dot 2. Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on from line A and place dot 3. Extend line A 2 inches up from line B- Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line A and place dot 4. Place the corner of square on the junction of lines A and B. the edge on dot 4 and draft line C out 6}4 inches. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line D through dot 3, extending to hue G. Place the edge of square even with line C and draft line E out +*4 inches from the end of line (J. Measure 3 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. Draft line F 5 inches straight out from dot 5. Place letter F on curve, 1 l / 2 inches straight up from the end ot line F and draft line G from the end of line F to the end of line E. Place line C on the fold of goods and there will be no seam. This collar makes a very nice square or round yoke. MEDICI COLLAR. Draft lines A and B )i inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure ]/ 2 the neck measure on line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure 4 inches on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. Measure 4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 4. Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure ]£, of the neck measure on' line A from line B and place dot 5. Measure zj& inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6- Place letter V on dot 6 and extend line D to dot 3. Measure 1 ^ inches down from dot 2 on line A and place dot 7. Measure 3 inches straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 8 (use the round Place the X point of curve on dot 8 and continue line E to dot 4. COAT COLLAR. Draft lines A and B ^ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure 1 inch more than }4 of neck measure on line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure 3 inches on line B from line A and place dot 3. Place letter 6 on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure j4 inch on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Draft line D from dot 2 to dot 5. Measure 3 */i inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 6 Measure 2 % inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place letter M on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- Place letter N on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 3. STANDING COLLAR. Draft line A 1 inch more than y 2 the neck measure. Draft line B lH inches straight out from line A- Measure 2 inches on line B from line A and place dot 2. Draft line C 3 3 A inches straight out from the end of line A- Measure 2 inches out line C from line A and place dot 3. Draft line D from the end of line C to the end of line B Measure 1 inch on line D from line C and place dot 4. Draft line E from dot 3 to dot 4. Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line F to dot 2 Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line G to the junction ot lines A and B These collars are drafted on the right bias of the goods. COAT NO. BACK. 6. i. Draft lines A and B -'4 inch from the edges and end of cloth. 2. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 % Vs H 10 7 8 I 1 •3 1 '4 2}i 2^ 16 2 5/ 8 1 -s 17 2 3.4 'X Neck Size 7 8 9 II 2 I 2 18 Dot 3 15/8 «« 1 Vs 2y& *tf 2% 3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3. 4. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. Draft line D straight out from dot 4. 7. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5. 8. Measure from dot 5 the distance given in the table for the width of center back and place dot 6. 9. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7. Measure V? inch in from dot 7 and place dot 8. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5. Draft line F from dot 5 to dot 8. Measure 6/ inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 1 and draft line H % inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot I I . 16. Measure 1 l - inches less than y£ of the arm's eye measure straight down frpm dot I I and % inch in and place dot 12. 17. Place the point ot curve on dot I I and draft line J to dot 12. Measure one inch in from dot 6 and place dot X on line D. Place letter G on dot 12 and draft line K to dot X. Place letter J on line K 6 inches above dot X and draft to dot 6. Draft line G straight down from dot 6. 5- 6. 10. II. 12. ■3- •4- i5. 18. 19. 20. 21. SIDE BODY. 1. Draft line N straight out from dot 12. 2. Measure 3 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 2. 3. Measure 3 inches out from dot 6 on line D and place dot 3. 4. Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of side body from dot 3 and place dot 4. 5. Measure one inch from dot 3 and place dot X. 6. Place letter V on dot 2 the edge of curve on dot X and draft line A to letter Z on the curve. 7. Place letter Z on dot 3 and draft to the end of line A. 8. Measure one inch from dot 2 and place dot 5. 9. Measure 2 inches less than 1^ of arm's eye straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6. 10. Place letter S on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 6. I I. Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6. Measure I J^ inches in from dot 3 and place dot 8. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and piace dot 9. Draft line E from dot 3 to dot 9. Measure * 2 inch out from dot 4 and place dot 10. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot II. Place the l A mark on dot 4 and draft line F to dot II. 1 2. >3- 14. •5- 16. i7- MEASURE. Bust 36 Waist 24 Front 75 Back 16 Under Arm 8 Neck . . i z Arm's Eye 16 UNDER ARM. 1 . Measure 3 inches from dot 4 and place dot 2. 2. Measure the width of the under arm — as given in the table — from dot 2 and place dot 3. 3. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. 4. Measure \A inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 5. Measure the width of 'he under arm straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6. 6. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7. 7. Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. 8. Place letter U on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. Measure I 3/^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place the < ■■., mark on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. 9- 10. 1 1. I z. '3- 14. 1. 2. Measure 3^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. Meaaure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot I I. Place the l / 2 mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot I I . FRONT. Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B Vi inch from the end of cloth. inch less than X A of neck measure on line A from line 3. Measure B and place dot 2. 4. Measure \4 inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. 5. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure 3/£ of arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place 6. dot 4. 7- dot 5. 8. Measure y 2 the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5. 9. Measure the distance of the Bust number on line D from dot 5 and place dot 6. 10. Measure the length ot under arm straight down from dot 6 and )/* inch in and place dot 7. Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8. Place letter A on dot 7 — curve up — and draft line F to dot 8. Measure 1-10 of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23- I I. 1 2. '3- 14. dot 10. 15. Measure \-i inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot 10 and place dot 1 1. 1 6. Measure the distance from dot 8 to the center of the dart and then measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14. 17. Place the x / 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. Place letter Z on dot 14 and draft line I to dot II. Draft lines J and K straight down from dots 10 and I I. Measure 1 3^ inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Place the V 2 mark on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19. Place letter G on line C l /y inch out from dot 2 and draft to meet line A 5 inches above dot 8. 24. Draft straight in to the edge of cloth from dot 2. 2 j. Place the corner of square j£ ' nc ^ m * rorn dot 2 and draft to meet line A 2 inches down. 26. Measure 6 V 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20. 27. Measure 1 j/ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. 28. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of" curve on dot 21 and draft line Q yi inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 29. Draft line R straight down frjm the end of line Q to l'ne D. Measure 1 '? inches up line R frcm line D and place dot 23. Measure 3^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. Place letter on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. Place letter K on dot 24 and draft to the end of line Q. The Front can be finished any style desired. For long shoulder extend line Q x / 2 inch. See dotted lines. 30. 3«- 32- 33- CLOAK NO. 7— BACK. Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2' NECK TABLE. Dot 2 1 _? _? 5/8 IO S /8 I I 1^ 14 12 2 J/8 »3< 2 3/& n I i Neck Size Dot 3 16 2 / '7 2^ 18 2 3^ MEASURE. Bust 36 Waist. 2+ Front 15 Back 16 Under Arm _ 8 Neck 12 Arm's Eye 16 Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 ° n line B from line A and place dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure the length of back down line A fr om dot 2 and place dot 4- Draft line D straight out from dot 4- Measure I y^ inches from dot 4 on line B and place dot 5- Measure the distance the table gives for the width of centre back from dot 5 and place dot 6- Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 5 and % inch in and place dot 7- Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 7- Draft line G straight down from dot (J. Measure it 1 /, inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 9- Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot \\. Measure 2 l / 2 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12- Place point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot g. SIDE BODY. Place the long arm of square even with line A > n the back, the short arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12- Measure 31^ inches on line N fr° m dot 12 and place dot 2- Measure 3 ! 2 inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 3- Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line A to dot 3- Measure the distance the table gives for the width of side body on line B from dot 3 and place dot 4- Measure one inch on line N from dot 2 and place dot 5- Place letter H ° n dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5- Measure two inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 6- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot (J. Measure ^ inch from dot 4 on l' ne B and place dot 7- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 ar >d place dot 8- Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8- Measure 1 J4 inches in from dot 3 and place dot 8- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 10- Draft line F from dot 3 to dot 9- UNDER=ARM FORM. Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m dot 4 (in the side body) and place dot 2- Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under arm from dot 2 and place dot 3- Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 m the side body, and then meas- ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4- Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5' Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm and place dot 6- Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7- Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2- Place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- Measure 1 % inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9- Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot H. B 3 CLOAK NO. 7— FRONT. Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B ' 1 /t. inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A fr° m ' me B and place dot 2- NECK TABLE Dot 2 7 2>. I* 2 2K IO II 2 ?4 3 3^ 14 3^ 15 33/^ 16 4 17 4X Neck Size 8 2 5/g 9 2 3^ 12 13 18 Dot 3 2% 3 3^ 35< 3^ 3^ 35/^ 3?4 3 7 /s Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on une B from line A and place dot 3- Measure Y A ot the arm's eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 4- Measure y 2 the arm's eye measure on line A fi" " 1 hne B and place dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 7 inches from dot 5- Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust number on line D from dot 5 and place dot 6- Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- Place letter A on dot ^ and draft line F to dot 8- Measure l /i tne width of both darts in from dot 7 on line F and place dot 9- Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot 6- Measure 1-10 of the waist measure online F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10- Measure 3^ of the width of both darts from dot 10 and place dot H. Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add *£ inch, then measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14- Place the j4 mark on dot 10 and draft line H t0 dot 14- Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14- Draft lines J and K straight down from dot 10 and H. Measure 3 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17- Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line M to dot 17. Measure }£ inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25- Measure % inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26- Draft lines T and U to meet 4 inches below dot 2- Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C t0 dot 3 (use the round edge). Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20- Measure I 3/£ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22- Draft line R straight down from dot 22 t0 line D- Measure I */, inches up line R from line D and place dot 23- Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S t0 dot 6- Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line B and place dot 27- Draft line V from dot 26 to dot 27- Place letter P on dot 27 and draft line W to meet the edge of goods 7 inches down. B 3 MEASURE. Bust - - 3 6 Waist 24 Front ... 15 Back --■ '6 Under Arm 8 Neck ._..-... 12 Arm's Eye ' ° ETON BACK. Draft linesA and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on 'ine A fr° m line B and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 X % % 3 /8 3 /8 % % 5/8 M H H % Neck Size 7 8 9 IO I 1 1 2 •3 2/8 •4 «s 16 '7 18 Dot 3 13/8 ll A 1 H '-<4 1 y% 2 *V\ 236 2l/ 2 2 5/8 2 3/j Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3' Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure the length of back down line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 4 Draft line D straight out from dot 4 Measure I ?/ inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure Y\ inch less than the combined width ot centre back and side body from dot 5 and place dot 0. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5- Measure i>]/, inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot $)• Measure 3 V, inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot IO- Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line fl Y inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. Measure 1/ of the arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place dot 12- Place the point of curve on dot 12 and draft line J to dot H. Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K to dot g. UNDER-ARH FORH. Measure 2}4 inches on line B fr° m dot B and place dot 2- Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under arm from dot 2 and place dot 3- Measure the distance between dots 6 an d 12 in the back and then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4- Measure 1 j£ inches straight out from dot 4 ar >d place dot 5- Measure the width of under arm straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7- Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2- Place letter Jj on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3> extending I inch below. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line (J to dot 7- ETON AND BOLERO COAT. Draft line A + inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B 1 / inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 °" line A from line B and place dot 2- Dot 2 ■^ 1% | 2 *ti ■2-Y* 234 3 3H 3Y2 3Yx 4 \% Neck Size 7 81 9 10 1 1 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Dot 3 *# *=/■& *Y\ *% 3 \lY* 3Y4 3^« 3% 3 '"'« 33/ 3 "8 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3- Measure I inch less than Yx of arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 4- Measure "4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line B straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5- Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for the bust number on line B from dot 5 and place dot B- Measure y 2 inch less than under arm length straight down from dot R and place dot 7- Measure y, inch out line D from dot 6 and plrce dot X- Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure % inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 and place dot 9- Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X beginning at the point of curve. r Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot 6 and measure up the length ot under arm and place new dot 6- Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches' below line D Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot X and draft line G out 3 inches beginning 3 inches from dot 4. Measure one tenth of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10- Add % inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance on line F h-om dot 10 and place dot H. Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add U, inch • then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15. Measure ^ inch toward line A from dot 15 and place dot 16. Draft line J from dot 10 to dot 16. Draft line K parallel with line J. Measure % inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25 Measure % inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26- Draft lines T and U to meet 4 inches below dot 2- Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round edge ) . v Measure by, inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20 Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21 Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q Yl inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22- Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line R- Measure 1 y inches on line R from line D and place dot 23- Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S to new dot 6. Place letter K on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22- Measure 3 % inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 27. Measure 2 y 2 inches straight in from dot 8 and place dot 28 Place letter Q on dot 27 and draft line U to dot 28, beginning I inch above dot 27- Draft line V from dot 26 to the end of line V- Finish as desired below the waist line. For Bolero Jacket follow dotted lines. GIRL'S CLOAK Draft line A 2 % inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line R 1 inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from hne B and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 Neck Size Dot 3 l H H '*■ 2 3/ *A 2 % \*U ^A 10 3 \i l A i l A )% 1% 13 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line R from line A and place dot 3- Place the point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3 Tuse the round edge). t L 8 Years. MEASURE. Bust.. 28 Waist . . 25 Front 9^2 Back 1 1 y 2 Under Arm 5 i/j" Neck . . 10 Arm's Eye 13 Measure y 2 inch more than ^ the arm s eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 5- Draft line D straight out, beginning 4 inches from dot 5- Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for bust number on line D fr° m dot 5 and place dot (J. Measure y 2 inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Measure the length of front on line A fr°m dot 2 an d place dot 8- Draft line p from dot 8 to dot 7- Measure I inch more than the table gives for front waist from dot 8 on '> ne F and place dot •)• Place the \ 2 mark on dot 9 and draft line E t0 dot 8. Measure 1 y 2 inches out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17- Place the V 2 mark on dot 9 and draft line H to dot 17- Measure 6 ' A inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20- Measure ij^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21- Place letter A on dot 3, tne e dge of curve on dot 21, and draft line Q ^2 inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line Di Measure I inch up line R from line D and place dot 23- Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6- Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. Measure I inch in on line B fr° m line A and place dot 25- Place the point of curve on line C 2 inches below dot 2 and draft line T extending ^ inch above dot 25- Place the point of curve on the end of line T and draft to meet the edge of goods 3 y, inches down. BACK. Draft lines A and B • inch from the edge and end of goods. Measu-e the distance given in the table under dot 2 down line A fr° m '' ne B and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 7 •ft X 8 9 •ft 10 1% H % % Neck Size 1 1 12 2 •3 Dot 3 zy& 3 inches below line B and extending 3^ inch below Measure the distance given in the table under dot 3 on line B^ot line A and place dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure the length of* back on line A from line B and place dot 4- Draft line D straight out from dot 4- Measure i^ inch from dot 4 ° n nne D and place dot 5- Measure 14 inch less than \ 2 °f tne combined width of center-back side body and under arm from dot 5 and place dot 6 Draft line E, beginning dot 5. Draft line F I V 2 inches straight in from the end of line E and place dot 7- Draft line G straight down from dot 7- Measure 6j4 inches on line B ' rorr i dot 3 and place dot 9- Measure 3)4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- Place letter A °n dot 3, edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H V-> inch 'ess than the proportionate shoulder measure. Measure J^ inch less than y^ of the arm's eye measure straight down from the end of line H and place dot 12- Place letter R* on dot 12 and draft line J to the end of line B- Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K extending 34 inch below dot 6- B JO JO 52 .^ [2 § J* MEASURE, 6 YRS. Bust 26 Waist 24 Front 8^ Back 11 Under Arm 4^ Neck 10 Arm's Eye 12 CHILD'S COAT— BACK. Draft lines A and B 3^ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure t/i inch down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure y 2 inch less than j^ of neck measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place dot 4. Draft line D straight out from dot 4. Measure one inch on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure % of waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 6. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5. Place letter N on dot 5 and draft line F to meet line A 5 % inches below dot 4. Measure 6]4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H % inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot I I. Measure l /± of arms eye measure straight down from dot I I and place dot 12. Measure 3^ inch straight out from dot 1 2 and place dot 1 3. Place letter D on dot I I and draft line J to dot 13. Place letter F on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 13. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15. Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 15. Place letter Z on dot 15 and draft to the end of line F. UNDER ARM. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 14 and place dot 2. Measure J^ inch less than }i of waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure the distance between dot 6 and 13 in the back and then meas- ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure one inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure the distance between dots 2 and 3 straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up from dot 3 the length of the under arm measure and place dot 7. Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. Place G on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. Measure one inch in from dot 2 and place dot 8. Measure 51^ inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter S on dot 2 and draft E to dot 9. Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. Measure 5%" inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot II. Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line F to dot II. Place letter T on dot 9 and draft to dot II. MEASURE 6 YRS. Bust 26 Waist 24 Front . 8 i/ A Back 11 Under Arm 424 Neck 10 Arm's Eye 12 CHILD'S CLOAK FRONT. Draft line A 3 J^ inches from the edge of goods. Draft line B 1 ' 2 inch from the end of goods. Measure y£ of the neck measure down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure * 2 inch less than y^ of neck measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Place letter B on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. • Measure '; ot the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 4. Measure the length ot the under arm measure down line A from dot 4 and place dot 5. Draft line F straight out from dot 5. Draft line D straight out beginning 4 inches from line dot 4. Measure y^ of the Bust measure on line D from dot 4 and place dot 6. Measure one inch more than y± of Bust measure on line F from dot 5 and place dot 7. Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 7. Measure 2^ inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 5 V? inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter S on dot 7 and draft line G to dot 9. Hold end of tape line on dot 3 and draft line H from dot 9 to the edge of goods. Measure 6}i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 10. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 1 and place dot I I . Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot I I , and draft line Q V± inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. Measure y± inch up line R from line D and place dot 12. Place the point of curve on dot 12 and draft line $ to dot 6. Place letter K on dot 12 and continue line $ to the end of line Q. Measure 3 inches straight in from the junction of lines A and B and place dot 13. Measure 2 % inches straight in from dot 4 and place dot 14. Draft from dot 2 to dot 13. Place letter Q on dot 13 and draft to dot 14. Place letter R on dot 14 and draft to the junction ot line G and the edge of goods. UNDER ARM. Place the long arm of square on line A (in the back) the short arm on doi 12 and draft line N straight from dot 12- Measure 3 inches from dot 12 on line N and place dot 2- Measure 3 inches from dot 6 on line D and place dot 3- Place letter Q on dot 2 and draft line A extending, 3^ 'nch below dot 3- Draft from the end of line A to the end of line K in the back. Measure )A inch more than y^ the combined width of center-back, side bodv and under arm form on line D from dot 3 and place dot 4- Measure the width of under arm form, as given in the table, from dot 2 on line N and place dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 5, and measure up from dot 4» '4 inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 6- Place letter M on dot 6 and draft line B to dot 4- Place the X point of the curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6- Measure l y i inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and -place dot 8- Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8- CAPES Draft line A ' inch from the edge of cloth. Draft line B 5 inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 5% 6 10 6# 6^ 64 12 6-/8 63 A 7 >4 6s/ 8 7* Neck Size 2 9 6 "; Dot 3 6 3/ 4 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3- Draft line C 7 inches straight out from dot 2- Measure 1 }4 inches on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure I }/, inches up line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. Measure 3/£ inch in on line B from dot 3 and place dot 6- Place the short arm of square on dot 5, the long arm on dot 6 and place dot 7 at the point of square. Place letter D on line C 2 inches from dot 4 and draft line E to dot 7. Place the point of curve on dot 7 and continue line E to dot 3. Measure i/ x inch down line E from dot 7 and place dot 8 Measure i/± inch up line E from dot 7 and place dot 9. Place the corner of square on the junction of lines A and B, the edge on dot 7 and measure 3 inches out from dot 1 and place dot 12- Draft lines F and 6 from dot 12 to dots 8 and 9. Place letter M on dot 4 and draft line H to meet line A > 1 inches below dot 2 Measure 9 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 13- Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 13 and place dot 14. •Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 14, and draft line J 2 inches more than the length of front and place dot 16- Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 15. Draft line R 7 inches straight out from dot 15. Draft line J, 6 inches straight down from dot 16- Hold the end of tape line on dot 7 and draft a curved line from the end of line K to line L- CIRCULAR CAPE The neck measure and length are all the measures that are necessary. It the goods are wide enough to cut without a seam then fold the goods and measure up the fold the length that you wish the cape and place dot 2- Place dot 3 — l /i °f tne neck measure from dot 2- Stick a pjn through the end of the tape line and in dot 3 an d draft a curved line beginning at dot 2- Without removing the pin or tape line, measure down the fold of the goods the length that you wish the cape and draft a curved line. It the goods are not wide enough to cut without a seam then use the selvedge in the place of the fold, this will make a seam in the center of the back only. Allow for seam in cutting out. CAPUCHIN HOOD. Draft lines A and B '2 inch from edge and end of cloth. Measure l/± inch less than '-C of neck measure on line A from line B and place dot 2- Measure j£ inch less than ){ of neck measure on line B from line A and place dot 3- Measure 3^4 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4- Measure |6 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 5- Place letter A on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 3- Measure 14.1-2 inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 6- Measure 1 inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7- Measure 7 inches on line B from dot 7 and place dot 8- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- Place letter K on dot 7, the edge of curve on dot 9 and draft line D to the yi mark on the curve. Measure ^ inch straight in from the end of line D and place dot 10 ■ Place letter G on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 3j4 inches up. Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 10- RED RIDING HOOD. Draft lines A and B % inch from edge and end of goods. Measure 3^ inch less than % the neck measure on line A and from line B and place dot 2- Measure l /i. the neck measure on line B from line A and place dot 3- Measure io 1 ^ inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4- Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5- Measure l/% inch straight in from dot 5 and place dot 6- Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to d6t 2. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to dot 3- Measure 5 l /> inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot T. Measure 10 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 8- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 9 and place dot 10- Place the 8 inch mark (on the curve) on dot 8, the edge on dot 10 and continue line D to the X point of the curve. Place letter H on the end of line D and draft to dot 4- DIVIDED BICYCLE SKIRT. FRONT. Use the fold of goods for line A- Draft line B % inch from the en d of goods out 15 inches. Measure 1 ]/ x inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 2. Measure 5 *& inches less than J^ waist measure on line B trom " ne A and place dot 3- Place letter F on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure down the fold of goods from dot 2 the length of skirt measure and place dot 4- Draft line D straight out from dot 4 about I 5 inches. Measure 4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 5- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6- Place the corner of square on dot 3» the e dge on dot 6» and draft line E .own l inch more than the skirt length. Measure 4 Vi inches out line B from line A and place dot 7- Measure ti inch straight down from dot 7 and place dot fc. Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 2. Measure ) 1 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 9- Place the corner of square on dot 8» the edge on dot 9. and draft line G down 14 inches and place dot 10- Measure 1 5 l 4 inches on line E fr° m dot 3» and place dot H. Place the point of curve on dot 10 and draft line H to dot H. Measure 2 inches more than j4 of skirt length on line E, from dot H, and place dot 12- Hold the end of tape line 011 dot 3 and draft a curved line from the end of line F to meet line D 9 inches from dot 4- Hold the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft a curved line from dot 12 to meet line D 9 inches from dot 4- _jSi 1 BACK. Use the fold of goods for line A- Draft line B '2 inch from the end of goods. Measure 3 $4 inches on line A» rrom line B. and place dot 2- Measure 1 inch more than the sLrt length on line A from dot 2, and place dot 3. Draft line C» out from dot 3, about I 5 inches. Measure $% inches less than J^ of waist measure, on line B from line A. and place dot 4- Measure 4 inches on line B, from line A. and place dot 5- Measure z 1 /, inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6- Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6 Place letter T on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4- Measure 4 inches on line B» from dot 4. and place dot 7- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 8. and draft line F down 1 inch more than the skirt length. Measure 1 5 % inches on line F, from dot 4, and place dot 9. Measure oj^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 10- Place letter K on dot 9 and draft line 6 to dot 10- Place letter S on dot 10 and continue line G t0 dot 6- Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge on dot 9> and draft line H 2 inches more than }4 the skirt length from dot 9- Place the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft curved line J from the end of line F to meet line C 4- inches from dot 3. Place the end of tape line on dot 2 and uraft a curved line K r " rom the end of line H to meet line J. *" FLARE SKIRT NO. 507 FRONT. Use the told of goods for line A. Draft line B )A inch from the end of goods. Measure one inch down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure lg of the waist measure out line B from line A and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure one inch more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. Draft line D 20 inches straight out from dot 4. Measure *4 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 5. Measure '; inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Place the corner ot square (or skirt rule) on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E to line D. Place letter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 7. Measure I 2 inches up from the end of line E and place dot 8. Measure 1 }£ inches straight out from the junction of lines D and E and place dot 9. Measure \£ inch straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to dot 10. Place letter R on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 4 inches in from dot 9. l4 inch allowed for seam. FIRST GORE. Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B }? inch from the end of goods. Measure 1 W inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure 1 y? inches more than ^ of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure ■_. inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure 9 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter U on dot 4 and draft to dot 5. Measure 2 inches more than the length of the skirt down line A from line B and place dot 6. Draft line D straight out from dot 6. Measure 1 '_, inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 7. Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 5. Measure 9 inches up line E from dot 7 and ••_, inch in and place dot 8. Place letter S on dot 8 and draft to dot 6. Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to meet line E 9 inches up. Measure 2 inches out from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. Measure 1 \i inches out from dot 9 on line B and place dot 10. . Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 1 and place dot I I . Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot I I , and draft line F to line D. Place letter H on dot 3 and draft to dot II. Hold the end of tape line on the center of line C and draft line G from dot 7 and extending 4 inches beyond line F. Measure 1 1 inches up line F from line G and one inch straight out and place dot 12. Place letter R on the end of line G and draft to dot 12. Place letter S on dot 12 and draft to meet line F 9 inches up. 771 — — *T" v> Worn 4- 3 SECOND GORE. Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B )4 inch from the end of goods. Measure one inch on line B from line A and place dot 2. Measure I \i inches less than y± of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Place letter M on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 8 inches below line B. Measure down line A from line B 3 inches more than the skirt length and draft line D straight out. Measure 2 inches on line D irom line A and place dot 4. Draft line E beginning on line Ail inches below line B ard draft to line 4. Measure 1 1 inches up line E from dot 4 and y z ' ncn > n an d place dot 5. Measure ' 2 inch up line A from line D and place dot 6. Place letter S on dot 5 and draft to dot 6. Place letter W on dot 5 and 'draft to meet line E 10 inches above dot 5. Place letter U on dot 6" and draft to meet line D 3 inches from dot 4. Measure one inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7. Measure I l / 2 inches from dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place the corner of square on dot 7, the edge on dot 9, and draft line F 2^ inches more than the skirt length. Measure t, 1 /- inches straight out from the end of line F and place dot 10. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 6 inches from dot 4. Measure I 1 inches up from the end of line F and one inch straight out and place dot I I . Place letter W on dot I I and draft to dot 10. Place letter S on dot I I and draft to meet line F 1 1 inches up. Place 4etter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 9. BACK. Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B 'j inch from the end of goods. Measure 1-10 of waist measure down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure % of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Place letter T on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. Draft line D 1 2 inches straight out from dot 4. Measure 4 inches less than J^ the skirt length up line A from dot 4 and |^ inch straight in and place dot 5. Draft from dot 5 to dot 4. Place Tetter W on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 1 1 % inches up trom dot 5. Measure 4'/, inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 6. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E 6 inches more than the skirt length. Hold the end of tape line on dot 3 and draft from the end of line E to meet line D. CIRCULAR FLOUNCE. Draft line A one inch from the edge of cloth. Use the end of cloth for line B. Measure 50 inches down line A from line B and draft line C straight out 56 inches. Draft line D 6 inches straight up from the end of line C. Measure 1 3 \' 2 inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure 36 inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure 2 ',< inches on line B from line A and place dot 4. Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft a curved line E from dot 4 to meet line D. (See Diagram) . Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 3 and draft line F the width of flounce desired. Place the end of square on the junction of lines D and E the edge on dot 3 and draft line G in the width desired. Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft line H from the end of line F to the end of line G. This will give the foundation for any style of Flounce desired. See dotted lines. 6 5* S ^■fcu.^-y.fc B SKIRT NO. 407. Use the fold of goods for line A. Draft line B yi inch from the end of goods. Measure }4 inch on line A from line JJ and place dot 2- Measure I inch more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 an d place dot 3. Draft line C straight out from dot 3 about i z inches. Measure y% of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- Measure )/? inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure i inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E • Vi inches more than the skirt length. Place the V 2 mark on dot 4 and draft to dot 7- Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 an d draft from the end of line E to meet line C- Allow i/\ mcn ' or seam on line E- FIRST SIDE PANEL. Draft line A VL inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B /4 inch from the end of goods. Measure yi inch on line A fr° m line B an d place dot 2- Measure I J^ inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3- Draft line C l A the waist measure straight out from dot 3- Measure }4 inch less than i^ of waist measure on line B fr° m hne A and place dot 4- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- Measure 3^ inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5- Place the yi mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. Measure 2 3^ inches from dot 4 and place dot (J. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E - inches more than the skirt length. Measure 3/£ inch in from dot 4 on 'ine D an d place dot 8- Place the % mark on dot 8 an d draft to dot 7- Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet line C- SECOND SIDE PANEL. Draft line A Yx inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B l'i inch from the end of goods. Measure 3/£ inch on line B from line A and place dot 2- Place the l - 2 mark on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. Measure z inches more than the skirt length on line A fr° m line B and pla^ dot 3. Draft line C straight out from dot 3 — 1 /2 the waist measure. Measure l inch less than yl of the waist measure on line B fr° m h ne A and place dot 4- Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- Measure 2 ' 2 inches out from dot 4 and place dot (J- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 ar >d place dot 7 Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 7 and draft line E 2 inches more than the skirt length. Measure 3/£ inch in on line D from dot 4 and place dot 8- Place the 'a mark on dot 8 and draft to dot 7- Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet Hne C- Allow Yx inch for seams on lines A and E- BACK. Dratt line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B '2 inch from the end of goods. Measure 1 U inches on line A from line B a °d place dot 2- Measure 2 inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure y^ of the waist measure on line B fr° m l' ne A an d place dot 4- Place letter F on dot 4 an d draft line D to dot 2- Measure ' 2 ' inch on line D fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 5- Place the *4 mark on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 8 inches down. Measure 3 '4 inches out from dot 4 ar) d place dot 6- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7 an d draft line E z inches more than the skirt length. Measure l / z the distance between dot 4 ar >d line A on fine B ar, d place dot 8- Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 an d draft line C from dot 3 to the end of line C- Allow y± inch for seam on lines A an d E- SKIRT NO. 405. USE FRONT OF 407. Draft line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B >2 inch from the end of goods. Measure i}( inches on line A from line B and place dot 2- Measure 1 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3- Measure y$ of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4 Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5- Place the y% mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2- Measure Mj of the waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 6- Measure i)4 inches from dot 6 and place dot 7- Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- Use the }4 mark to draft lines F and G- Measure 2 > 2 inches from dot 4 and place dot 9- Measure 2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot H and draft line E 2 inches more than the skirt length from dot 9- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E 1 3 inches below dot 9 Measure 2}( inches more than the skirt length straight down from dot 9 and place dot 12 (see dotted line). Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 12- Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from dot 12 to the end if line E- Allow Vx inch seam on lines A and E- BACK. Draft line A V\ inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B /i inch from the end of goods. Measure 2^ inches on line A from line B and place dot 2- Measure 2 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3- Measure y$ of the waist measure on line Bfrom line A and place dot4- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- Measure V, inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5- 12 , -\* 9 ii B " '^^\"> \ " " ^^^ \ \ * -^v^ .^ — — »~ fo<^ ro\ M A D A / / 4 \ 8 ** -X*' / * > 403 c p Place the ^ mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 4 inches below dot 2- Measure 5 inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 6- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 7 and draft line E 2^ inches more than the skirt length. Measure j4 of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 8- Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 and draft line C from the end of line E to within 5 inches of line A — finish with a straight line to dot 3- Allow y^ inch for seams on lines A and E- SKIRT NO. 403. USE FRONT OF NO. 407. Drajt line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods. Dralt line B % inch from the end of goods. Measure 8 T ^ inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure 1 }i inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3. Draft line C 12 inches straight out from dot 3. Measure 4 inches more than */, of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4. Draft line D ! 6 of the waist measure straight out from dot 2. Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2. Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line D and place dot 6, Measure % inch straight up from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 8. Use the % mark to draft lines E and F to dot 8. Measure % of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 9. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place clot 10. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to dot 7. Place letter V on dot 10 and draft to dot 4. Measure */> the distance between line A and dot 4 on line B and place dot 11. Measure 9 inches from dot 4 on lin° B and place dot 12. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13. Place the cornei- of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 13 and draft line G 3jj inches more than the skirt length and place dot 14. Hold end of tape on dot H and draft from dot 14 to line C. Allow for seams on lines A and E- When double box plait is desired, take from the top 3 inches and and from the bottom 9 inches. See dotted lines. When a fan plait is desired, add 1 inch to the top and 33.^ to the bottom. See dotted lines. DOUBLE BOX PLAIT. Fold the goods 1 6 inches wide and use the fold for line A. Draft line B Y inch from the end of goods out 5 inches. Measure Y inch on line A from line B and place dot 2. Place letter H on the end of line B and draft line D to dot 2- Measure 4}4 inches more than the skirt length on the fold of goods from dot 2 and place dot 3. Draft line C 1 5 inches straight out from dot 3. Measure 4 inches on line C from dot 3 and place dot 4. Draft line E from the end of line B to the end of line C. Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length on line E from line B and and place dot 5. . Place letter H on dot 5 and draft to dot 4. Draft the same for a single box plait, making the top 3 inches and the bottom 12 inches. For a triple box plait make the top 7 inches and the bottom 19 inches. Allow for seam on line E. GOLF, BICYCLE OR RAINY DAY SKIRT. USE FRONT OF 407. SIDE PANEL. Draft line A Y inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B 5^ inch fr° m the end of goods. Measure 1 *4 inches on line A h" om hne B and place dot 2. Measure 1 Y> inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3. Draft line C ' z inches straight out from dot 3. Measure j 3 of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2. Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter G on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2. Measure '/s of waist measure on line D fr° m dot 5 and place dot 6. Measure I l /i inches from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8. Use the y 2 mark to draft lines P and G from dots 6 and 7 to dot 8. Measure zy, inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 9. Measure 2 l / 2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and pl a ce dot il. Place the corner of square on dot 9» the edge on dot 1 1 and draft line E ' l /z inches more than the skirt length. Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E ' 2 inches below dot 9. Hold end of tape line on dot ^ and draft from the end of line E to meet line C. Allow y inch seam on lines A and E- BACK. Draft line A Y\ i nc h from the edge of goods. Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods. Measure 5^/4 inches on line A fr° m line B and place dot 2. Measure 2 y 2 inches more than the length of skirt from dot 2 and place dot 3. Draft line C ' 2 inches straight out from dot 3. Measure 1 \u inches less than y z of waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 4. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 4. Measure y inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2. Measure 7 inches on line B fr° m dot 4 and place dot 6. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 1 and draft line E 2 Yi inches more than the skirt length from dot 4. Measure }& of the waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 9. Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from the end of line E to meet line C 5 inches from dot 3. Allow y inch for seam on lines A and E. e » 4 b CHILD'S SKIRT— FRONT. Use the fold of goods foi line A- Draft line B ]/2 inch from the end of goods. Measure J^ inch on line A fr° m ' me B and place dot 2- Measure the length of skirt on line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 3- Measure I y inches less than y of the waist measure on line B fr° m ' me A and place dot 4- Place letter H on dot 4 an d draft line D to dot 2- Measure I inch out from dot 4 an d place dot 5- Measure I inch out from dot 5 ar >d pkce dot 6- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 5. tne edge on dot 7, an d draft line E the length of skirt. Place letter. H on dot 4 ar >d draft to meet line E 6 inches below dot 5- Place letter }jf on dot 3 an d draft line C t0 the en d of line E- Allow y inch seam on line E- SIDE. Draft line A V\ inch fr° m the edge of goods. Draft line B /^ inch from the end of goods. Measure zy inches on line A from line B an d place dot 2- Measure the length of skirt on line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 3- Draft line C straight out from dot 3- Measure I inch more than j >'i of the waist measure on line B from line A ar) d place dot 4 Place letter H on dot 4 a nd draft line D to dot 2- Measure '4 inch on line D from dot 2 an d place dot 5- Place letter M on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 4 inches down from dot 2- Measure y inch from dot 4 an d place dot 6- Measure } M inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 7- Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 ar| d place dot 8- Place the corner of square on dot 6, tne edge on dot 8, an d draft line E the length of skirt. Place letter R on dot 4 ar| d draft to meet line E 5 inches down from dot 6. Measure I l inches from dot 3 on '' ne C ar| d place dot 9- Measure I inch straight up from dot 9 an d place dot 10- Place letter W on dot 10 and draft to the end of line E> Place letter W on dot 3 a nd draft to dot 10- Allow y inch for seam on lines A an d E- Draft BACK. line fi 3^ inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B l i i ncn from the end of goods. Measure 2 ^ : inches on line A fr° m '' ne B ar| d place dot 2- Measure the skirt length on line A from dot 2 an d place dot 3. Draft line C straight out from dot 3- Measure 1 inch more than V3 waist measure on line B from line A ar, d place dot 4- Measure M inch straight out from dot 2 an d pl a ce dot 5- Place letter J on dot 5 an d draft line D t0 dot 4 Place letter fH on dot 5 ar >d draft to meet line A 8 inches below dot 2- Measure 5 inches on line B from dot 4 ar| d place dot 6. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 4. tne edge on dot 7, an d draft line E th e length of skirt. Measure I 1 inches on line C fr° m dot 3 ar >d place dot 8- Measure 1 yC, inches straight up from dot 8 an d place dot 9- Place letter }/f on dot 9 and draft to the end of line E- Place letter \|f on dot 3 and draft to dot 9- Allow y inch seam on lines A and E- When a dart is required, measure y% of the waist measure from dot 5 making the dart 1 y, inches at top and to meet 4. inches straight down from the last dot. te \j it (X* RIDING SKIRT— NO. I. Use the edge of goods for line A- Draft line B % inch from the end of goods. Measure J inches on line A. from line B, and place dot 2- Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure ' j of waist measure on line B» from line A, and place dot 4. Measure 4 ! _, inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place letter F on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure zyt, inches on line B, from dot 4, and place dot 6- Measure 3 yi inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure 1 j£ inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 8- Measure 1 3 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 9. Place letter U on dot 1 and draft line E to dot 9. Measure ]4> of the waist measure from dot 6 and place dot 10- Place the point of curve on dot 10 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure 414 inches on line B from dot 10 and place dot \\. Measure 1 V 2 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12. Draft line G from dot 10 to dot 12- Place letter M on dot 3 and draft line H to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2- Measure the length of skirt on line A. from dot 2, and place dot 13. Draft line I 20 inches straight out from dot 13- Draft line J from dot 12 to the end of line I. NO. 2. Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure 3 inches on line A, from line B, and place dot 2- Measure 4^ inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 3. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4. Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5. Measure 10 inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6 Place letter H on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6- Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 6- Measure the length of skirt on line A from dot 5 and place dot 7. Measure I inch straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8- Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 8- Measure 8 inches on line B from line A and place dot 9. Measure 6*4 inches on line B, from dot 9, and place dot 10- Measure 12 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Measure 6 inches on line B, from dot 10, and place dot 12- Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13. Place letter H on dot 9 and draft line F to dot 13. Place letter R on dot H and draft line G to dot 13. Place the corner of square on dot H, the edge on dot 10, and draft line R straight out from dot 1 1 . Measure 8}4 inches on line H, from dot H, and place dot 14. Place letter F on dot H and draft line I to meet line R 3 % inches from dot 11. Place letter T on the end of line I and draft to dot 15. Measure 51^ inches on line H, from dot 14, and place dot 16. Measure 2 yi inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter T on dot 17 and draft line J to dot 15. Measure 2^ inches on l.ne H, from dot 16, and place dot 18. Measure 3 % inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Place letter F on dot 17 and continue line J to dot 19. Measure 3 inches on line H, from dot 13, and place dot 20- Measure 1 2 inches less than the skirt length, straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- Continue line J from dot 19 to dot 21- Place the corner f square on dot 21 and draft line R straight in 24 nches. Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 14 and place dot 15. Measure 12 inches in on line K» from dot 21, and place dot 22- Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23- Measure 1 o inches straight down from the end of line R and place dot 24- Place letter R on dot 21 and draft to dot 23- Place letter R on dot 23 an d draft to dot 24- Place letter S on dot 24 and draft to dot 8- NO. 3. Use the edge of goods for line A- Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods. Measure 9 inches on line A> fr° m une B. and place dot 2- Measure yi inch more than one twelfth of the waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3- Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4- Place letter N on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 4 Measure 3 inches on line B> from dot 3. and place dot 5' Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6- Measure one twelfth of the waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 7- Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line D to dot 8- Measure 31^ inches on line B» from dot 7» and place dot 9' Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- Measure J^ of the waist measure from dot 9 and place dot \\. Place letter R on dot 10 and draft line E to dot H. Place a dot on line B % the distance between dots 7 ar >d 9 and measure straight down 1 1 yi inches and place dot 12- Place letter G on dot 4 and draft line P to dot 12. Place letter H on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 12- Measure 10 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 13- Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line H to dot 13. Place letter B on dot 10 and draft line I to dot 13- Measure 3 i/J inches on line B, from dot \\, and place dot 14- Measure 5}^ inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15- Measure 10 inches on line B» fr° m dot 14, and place dot 16. Measure 14 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter R on dot H and draft line J to dot 15- Place letter R on dot 15 and continue line J to dot 17. Measure 3 J^ inches straight down from dot 17 and place dot 18- Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 18 and place dot 19- Place letter jf on dot 19 and draft to dot 17- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 19 and place dot 20- Measure 1 % inches straight out from dot 20 and place dot 21- Place letter J on dot 19 and draft to dot 21- Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 21 and place dot 22- Measure 1 1 inches less than the skirt length straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23- Continue line J from dot 21 to dot 23- Measure 2 inches less than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 24 Measure I 2 inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 25- Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26- Place letter S on dot 26 and draft line R to dot 2- Measure 8 inches on line A» from dot 25, and place dot 27- Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 27 and place dot 28- Place letter G on dot 26 and continue line R to dot 28- Continue line R from dot 28 to dot 24- Measure 4 inches down from dot 24 and place dot 29- Draft line L> from dot 29, to dot 23- Measure 1 2 inches out line L from dot 29 and place dot 30- Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 30 and place dot 31- Draft line JH from dot 24 to dot 31- Measure I o inches on line L> from dot 30, an d pl»ce dot 32- Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 32 and place dot 33- Place letter S on dot 33 and continue line M to dot 31- Place letter R on dot 23 and draft t0 dot 33- POCKET. Drafc lines A anc l B % inch fr° m tne e dg e an d en d of goods. Measure 1 }4 inches on line A» fr° m une B» and place dot 2- Measure 4 inches on line B> fr° m line A. and place dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 3 a °d draft line C t0 dot 2- Measure 414 inches on line A. fr° m dot 2, and place dot 4- Measure 7 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5- Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 4. and place dot 6- Measure 8 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place letter H on dot 5 and continue line D to dot 7- Measure 14 inches on line A. fr° m dot 2» and place dot 8- Draft line E straight out from dot 8- Measure 3 inches on line E» fr° m dot 8. and place dot 9. Place letter D on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 9- Measure zyi inches from dot 9. on line E. an d place dot 10- Place letter B °n dot 7 afi d draft to dot 10- TROUSERS FRONT. Draft lines A a nd B Y\ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure 1 inch more than y^ of the outside leg measure on line A fr° m ' in e B and place dot 2. Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. Measure 4'^ inches on line A. from line B. and place dot 4. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 5. Place letter G on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 2. Place the corner of square on dot 2i the short arm even with line A and draft line D out 5 inches beginning 8 inches from dot 2. Measure 2 inches more than ^ the hip measure on line D fr° m dot 2 and place dot 6. Measure the length of outside ltg measure on line A. from line B, a nd place dot 7. Measure 1^ of waist measure on line B» fr° m dot 3. afi d place dot 8. Measure 2 V z inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9- Measure 1 inch from dot 9 a nd place dot 10. Draft the dart to meet 4 inches straight down from center of dart. Measure 2 inches in on line D» fr° m dot 6. and place dot H. Measure 2 V? inches straight up from dot H and place dot 12. Place letter A on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 12. Place letter C on dot 12 and continue line E to dot 6. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 13. Measure 12 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 14. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 14 and place dot 15. Place letter U on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 13. Place letter U on dot 13 and extend line F to dot 15. Measure 2 ^ inches less than the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 7 and place dot 16. Continue line F from dot 15, extending }4 inch below dot 16. Place letter M on the end of line F and draft line G to dot 7. Waist ..24 Outside leg measure . . . J 2 Hips 4° Knee 12 Ankle 9% BACK. Draft lines A and B ]i inch from the edge and end ot goods. Measure 3 l / 2 inches on line A, from line B» and place dot 2. Measure }i of waist measure on line B, fr° m ,in e A. and place dot 3. Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure J^ of waist measure on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure i y 2 inches on line C> from dot 4. and place dot 5. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 6. and draft line D down 4 inches. Draft line E from dot 5 to the end of line D. Measure 7^ inches on line A. from dot 2> and place dot 7. Measure I j£ inches straight out from dot 1 and place dot 8- Measure I inch straight out fiom dot 8 and place dot 9- Draft line F from dot 2 to dot 8- Draft line G from dot 8 to dot 9- Measure I inch more than ?/* of leg measure on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 10- Place the short arm of square even with line A» the corner on dot 10> and draft line H ou t 8 inches beginning 14 inches from dot 10. Measure 2 inches less than j4 of hip measure on line fl» from dot 10. and place dot H. Measure 5 inches on line A, from d ■■. 10, and place dot 12. , Measure 4 inches straight out from -lot 12 and place dot 13- Place letter S on dot 9 and draft line J to dot 13- Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 12, and place dot 14- Measure 4.^ inches straight out from dot 14 and place dot 15- Place letter \J on dot 15 and draft to dot 13- Measure the length of outside leg measure on line A, from dot 2> ar *d place dot 16. Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 16 and place dot 17- Extend line J from dot 15 to dot 17- Measure 5 inches from dot 3, on line B, and place dot 18- Measure 6V inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19- Place letter H on dot 3, and draft line K to dot 19- Measure 3^ inches in from dot 11, on line H, and place dot 20- Measure 5 inches straight up from dot 20 and place dot 21- Place the point of curve on dot H and draft to dot 21- Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 21 and place dot 22- Place letter G on dot 1 1 and draft line L to dot 22- Measure 3/£ of knee measure straight out from dot 15 and place dot 23- Place letter G on dot 22 and extend line L to dot 23- Measure the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 17 and place dot 24. Extend line L from dot 23 to one inch below dot 24- Place letter S on the end of line L and draft to dot 17. Place a dot j/ inch outside of the end of line L and draft to meet line L 4 inches up. Place a dot *^ inch in from dot 1 7 and draft to meet line J 4 inches up. CORSET COVER. BACK. Draft lines A and B }4 inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2, on line A fr° m line B, and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 # X *A % 5/ 8 Neck Size 7 I 8 1 9 IO 1 1 1 2 •3 H 1 «s 16 •7 18 Dot 3 Ya H\ ' 1 yi 'tf l?8 ■^ • s /s *H 174 2 2}i Measure the distance given jn the neck table, under dot 3> on line B from line A and place dot 3- ** Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure the length of back on line A. from line B. and place dot 4- Draft line D straight out from dot 4- Measure I inch on line D> from dot 4. and place dot 5- Measure the distance given in the table for center back and side body on line D, from dot 5. and place dot 6- Draft line E. from dot 2, to dot 5- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7- Measure yt, inch in towards line A. from dot 7, and place dot 8- Draft line F. from dot 5, to dot 8 Measure 6}4 inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9- Measure 4. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H the proportionate length of shoulder, and place dot H. Measure i - 2 inch less than }■£ of arm's eye measure straight down from dot 11 and place dot 12- Measure 1/^ inch straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13- Place the point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H. Place letter Hon dot 6, and draft line K to dot 13- Measure >i inch on line D, from dot 6, and place dot 14- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15- Place letter A on dot 6, and draft line Q to dot 15- Draft line L from the center of the shoulder to the middle of line D, between dots 5 and (J. Place a dot on line H '8 i ncn ea ch side of line L and draft a dart to meet 2 inches below line H, drafting the lower side of dart V% inch above line H, and draft a new line H f rom the end of dart line to point of shoulder. (See diagram ). Place letter S on the junction of lines D and L, and draft a slightly curved line to meet line L 9 inches above line D- Reverse the curve and draft on the opposite side of line L- (See dotted lines). Extend lines F and L about 2 inches below line D, w «h about l / 2 inch spring at bottom. (See dotted lines). Allow % inch seams on lines E, F, H. K and L- Cut on lines C and J. UNDER ARM FORM. Measure 3 inches from dot 6 on Ime D and place dot 2. Measure the width of under arm form from dot 2 and place dot 3- Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in side body and then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and p'ace dot 4. Measure I ^A inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure the width of under arm form straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7. Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. Place letter M on dot 1 and draft line B to dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. Measure I y 2 inches in from dot 2, on nne D, and place dot 8. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. Measure i/^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot \\, 3 S CORSET COVER. FRONT. Draft line A '^-4 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B 1 inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A. from line B, and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 2 h% 2*A 2 3^ 3 1% lA 3?< 4 4^ 4# 4 3 /8 Neck Size 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 '3 H »5 16 •7 18 Dot 3 2 2}i »# 2 3/i ^A Wi 234 2ji 3 3# 3^ 3^ Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3> on line B from line A, and place dot 3- Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 3/£ of the arm's eye measure on line A> from line B> and place dot 4- Measure yC, of the arm's eye measure on line A» fr° m line B> and place dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5- Measure the width of bust number on line D» from dot 5» and place dot 6- Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dor 7. Place letter A on dot 7. and draft line E to dot 6. Measure the length of front on line A. from dot 2. and place dot 8- Place letter H on dot 8, and draft line F to dot 7- Measure 2 inches down line E» from dot 6, and place dot 9- Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 9, and draft line 6 out 4 inches, beginning 2 inches from dot 4- Measure 1% inches on line F» from dot 8, and place dot 10- Measure the width of the dart, from dot 10, and place dot H. Measure 3^ inch from dot H and place dot 12. Measure ^ inch more than the width of the first dart, from dot 12. and place dot 13. Measure the distance between dot 8, and the center of the first dart, and add y 2 inch, then measure that distance on line G. from dot 4. and place dot 14- Measure the distance between dot 8. and the center of the second dart, and add 1^ inch and then measure that distance on line Q, from dot 4» and place dot 15- Place the A mar k on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line J. Draft lines J and K in like manner. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 16- Measure y 2 inch straight in from dot 16 and place dot 17- Draft line J, from dot 10 to dot 17- Draft lines M, N and parallel with line I,. Measure 1 3^ inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19- Place letter A on dot 7, and draft line P to dot 19. Measure 6% inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 20- Measure I 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 21. and draft line Q the proportionate length of shoulder, and place dot 22- Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- Measure 1 )' 2 inches up line R, from line D. and place dot 23- Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- The front can be curved if desired. Follow the instructions given in the plain waist draftings. For low or square neck draft as per dotted lines. 7 i 3 * • n \\ c\ \ 6 9 T> H- 1 eh y i i "I' (0 ij t9 i % i U i il — 9 „_ 3\ .z 9 J- s ~ h /o • \ V R 6 fc D \ ¥ 1 7i X I o (6 It rP /' oc o 13 j .lQ. 1 ^ ,' t '/ tJ '/ VJ '/ '/L-. f 3 LADIES' CHEM1SB. FRONT. Use the fold of goods for line A- Draft line B s 2 ' ncn fr° m the e "d of goods. Measure I inch less than \4 of arm's eye measure down the fold ot goods from line B and place dot 2- Measure l inch less than }4 the neck measure on line B. from l' ne A- place dot 3- Draft line B straight out from dot 2- Measure y^ of the neck measure on line B> fr° m dot 2. and place dot 4- Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 4- Measure 2 inches more than the table gives for bust number on line B> from dot 2» and place dot 6. > Measure 6}4 inches on line B, from dot 3» and place dot 7- Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8 Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 8. and draft line Q y 2 the roportionate shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. Measure I j4 inches up line R, from line B» and place dot 9- Place letter fl on dot 9» and draft line S to dot 6- Place letter K on dot 9, and extend line S to the end of line Q. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 10- Measure I inch straight out from dot 10 and place dot \\. Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge on dot H, and draft line E the length desired. Slightly curve line E as per dotted lines. Draft line P from the end of line E to line A- BACK. Use the fold of goods for line A- Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods. Measure I inch less than *4 the arm's eye measure on line A. from line B> and place dot 2- Measure I y 2 inches less than y 2 of neck measure on line B. from line A, and place dot 3- Draft line B straight out from dot 2- Measure \i of the neck measure on line B» from dot 2, and place dot 4- Measure j4 inch more than l{ of the bust measure on line B, from dot 2. and place dot 6- Draft line (J, fr° m dot 3, to dot 4- Measure 6*^ inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 9- Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 9, and place dot 10- Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H '4 the proportionate shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the end of line H to line B- Measure I inch up line R, from line B. and place dot 1 1 . Place letter B on dot H, and draft line S to dot 6- Place the point of curve on dot H, and draft to the end of line H- Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 12. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13- Place the corner of square on dot 6. the edge on dot 13, and draft line ,J the same length as line E in the front. Slightly curve line J. (See dotted lines). Draft line F fr° m the end of line E, to line A- Bust, 36 ; Neck, 12 ; Arm's Eye, 16 ; Length, 36. ± IB 9 S« 3 H fo m 7 5, /b e f LADIES' DRAWERS. Use the fold oi goods for line A- Draft line B /2 inch from the end of goods. Measure 4 inches down line A> from line B> and place dot 2- Measure ]/ 2 of the waist measure on line B. from hie A. and place dot 3- Measure 4 inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 4- Measure I J^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5- Place letter G on dot 3. and draft Une C to dot 2- Place letter Q on dot 5. ar >d draft line D to dot 2- Measure the length of leg measure on line A> from dot 2» and place dot 6. Draft line E 3 inches less than the knee measure straight out from dot 6. Measure 1 "j inches more than */C of the leg measure down the fold of goods from dot 2 and place dot 7- Draft line F straight out beginning 10 inches from dot 7- Measure 5 inches more than y± the hip measure from dot 7 and place dot 8- Measure 2)^ inches in from dot 8 and place dot 9- Measure % °* the leg measure straight up from dot 9 and place dot \Q. Place the ]/ 2 mark on dot 5 and draft line Q to dot 10- Place the point of curve on dot 8 and draft to dot \Q. Draft line H straight down from dot 4. extending 1 inch below line F- Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot \\. Place letter Q on dot 1 1 , and draft line J to the end of line E- Place letter T on dot 8. and draft to dot H. Place the point 01 curve on dot H, and draft to the end of line B- Cut on lines (J> D and E- Allow I J^ inch seams on lines Q and B f° r facing. (See dotted lines). Waist, 24 ; Hip, 40 ; Knee, I 5 ; Length, 24. LADIES' GOWN. FRONT. Use the fold of goods for line A- Draft line B /4 inch from the end of goods. Measure % neck measure on line A» from line B. and place dot 2- Measure % of neck measure on line B, from line A> and place dot 3- Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 6^4 inches on line B. from dot 3> and place dot 4- Measure l / 2 inch straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5- Place letter A ° n dot 3> the edge of curve on dot 5> and draft line Q l / 2 inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. Measure 2 inches less than V 2 the arm's eye measure straight down from the end of Une Q and place dot 6- Place the short arm even with line A, the long arm on dot 6, and draft ine D straight out from dot 6- Measure 14 inch straight up from dot and place dot 7- Place the point of curve on dot 7, and draft line S to the end of line Q. Measure 1 inch more than J^ of the arm's eye measure on line D. fr° m do* 6, and place dot 8- Measure 1 ^ inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 9- Place letter j) on dot 7 and continue line S to dot 9- Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 10- Measure 2 1 /, inches straight out from dot 10 and place dot 11. Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot H, and draft hre E the desired length. Draft line F straight in rrom the end of line E to line A- BACK. Use the fold of goods for line A- Draft line B ^ 'nch from the end of goods. Measure )A inch on line A> fr° m line Bi and place dot 2- Measure '/g of the neck measure on line Bt fr° m line A> and place do* 3- A-S-t "3 (p 2 & y g 'S 3H ~3> "lace tne point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3, on line B. and place dot 9- Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H J4 inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. Measure 2 inches less than }4 of the arm's eye measure on line A, fr° m '' ne Bj and place dot 4- Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 4- Measure 1 inch more than l /{ of the bust measure on line D fr° m dot 4, and place dot 5- Place letter D on the end of line H, and draft line J to dot 5- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 an d place dot (J- Measure I '4 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7' Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E the length of line E in front. Draft line F straight in from the end ot line E to line A. LADIES' UNDER SKIRT. FRONT. Use the told of goods for line A- Draft line B '2 inch fr° m the end of goods. Measure }4 inch on line A fr° m iine B, and pl a ce dot 2- Measure % °f tne waist measure on line B, fr° m l' ne A, and place dot 3- Measure j^. inch in from dot 3 and place dot 4- Place letter R on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 2- Measure the length of skirt down line A from dot 2, and place dot 5- Draft line D straight out from dot 5, about 10 inches. Measure V 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 6- Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E % inch more than the skirt length. Place letter R on dot 4, an d draft to dot 7- Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft a line from the end of line E to meet line D- SIDE GORE. Use the edge of goods for line A- Draft line B }{. inch fr° m the end of goods. Measure 4 inches less than % of waist measure on line B> from line A, and place dot 2- Measure ^ inch on line A, f rom ,ine B, and place dot 3- Measure 1 l / 2 inches straight out from dot 3 an d pl a ce dot 4- Place letter R" on dot 2, and draft line C to dot 4- Place letter R on dot 4, and draft to meet line A 9 inches below dot 3- Measure l / 2 inch more than the skirt length on line A from dot 3, and place dot 5. Draft line D straight out from dot 5- Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m dot 2, and place dot 6- Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E ' J i.h more than the skirt length. Hold the end of tape line on dot 2 and draft a curved line from the end of line E to meet line D- BACK. Use the edge of goods for line A- D-af* line B % inch from the end of goods. measure \: 2 of the waist measure on line B from line A. and place dot 2- Measure on line A from line B 1 inch more than the skirt length and place dot 3. Draft line D straight out from dot 3- Measure 2 inches on line B fr° m dot 2, and place dot 4- Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 5, and draft line E ' inch more than the skirt length. Y'.oA the end of tape line on dot 2 and draft a curved line from the end ot line E to meet line D- Allow at bottom for width of hem desired. TO PUT THE LINING ON FULL. First see that the lining is cut y 2 inch longer than the measure. Place the lining on the cloth. See that the cloth is perfectly smooth. Run a basting across the lining about 3 inches above the waist line in the front and from 4 to 4^ inches in the back, side-body and under arm shape. Now push the lining up % inch and run a basting across the waist line. Now grade the fullness in the lining by running a basting (% inch stitch) % inch inside of the tracing making the most fullness near the waist line. Now baste in the tracing }£ inch stitch. Make the lining slightly full for about 1 inch below the waist line. The bones must be put in easy up to the waist line, when they must be sewed perfectly tight and above the waist line they must be sprung in at least y 2 inch in order to remove the fullness in the lining. The casing should be sewed tight to the seam of the dress and then cross stitched if desired. Begin at the waist line to do your basting (darts excepted, which must be started at the point of the dart) and baste up and down. The basting should not be longe.' than % inch stitches. Be careful to baste in small stitches around tht arm's eye ami neck to prevent stretching. In joining the waist it is best to pin the traced lines first and remove the pins as you baste. Measure your waist before stitching the under arm seam, and if large or small, stitch inside or outside of the tra«"* lines. A)Vo\.A » alld draft line ^!t C V he J ™" °i T are on the J un ction of line B and the fold of goods, the edge on dot 2, and measure down according to size of wais diagram.) * (See WaiSl meaSUre and do ' ted lines ™ the Place the edge of square on dots 3, 4, 5 and 6, and make a dot in the same manner, according to the waist measure dorado*: 011 ™ 6 ' 1 Hne ^ Pladng leUer J °" thC firSt d0t and draft from This will give you a correct shape at the waist line The yoke can be made any desired width, but it must be shaped at the back according to line D. Vienna Millinery Institute The entire art of FRENCH MILLINERY TAUGHT From the making of Wire Frames to the Final Finishing of the Hat or Bonnet. INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING AND FINISHING WAIST. To arrange the lining for drafting, fold it so that the drafting will be made on the wrong side of the lining. Place the lining on the table wi'h the selvedge towards vou. If the lining is to be put on full then it must be drafted l / 2 inch longer than the measure calls for. When your drafting is finished ( it the lining is drafted double ) pin it together well before tracing and cutting. Use a double tracing wheel, this will give an even seam and be a great assist- ance in your basting. Place the lining flat on the table when cutting. Never raise it with your hand. When cut put a small notch at the waist line. Trace the front, waist line, and darts with one wheel, all other sewing lines with both wheels, making a '^ inch seam, except on the shoulders and line E in the front and line B in the under arm shape, which should be a one inch seam so as to give a little ease on those seams if desired. The neck and arm hole is cut on the marked lines as seams are allowed in the drafting. TO CUT THE GOODS. See that the goods are folded double ( unless they are stripes or plaids. ) ( See instructions for matching stripes, plaids and figures. ) Lay the goods smooth on the table, selvedge towards you. Place the lining on the goods. The bottom of the waist lining at the end of the goods (so as to cut saving), unless the nap or figure runs the other way, which of course must be the first consideration. It is best to place all of the forms in position first and see that the waist lines run even with the thread of the goods, then pin carefully before cutting. YOU LEARN ALL THE FINE POINTS This system is so thoroughly taught that scholars after finishing are fully com- petent to take charge of business for themselves, or take leading positions for others. Vienna Millinery Institute 5 WEST 14th STREET, NEW YORK Be very careful in basting. No matter how perfect vour draftings are the waist can be ruined bv improper basting. Do not draw the basting thread too tight, it will draw the goods out of position. Before removing the basting thread^ clip them every few inches, otherwise thev are apt 10 pull or break the thread 01 the goods. Place the goods on the table face down. Now place the lining on the goods right side up, then pin at the waist line and arrange the lining above the waist line with a little ease, pinning the lining to the material. Baste the waist line first,' then baste the other lines in the tracing up and down from the waist line with a stitch from ^ to ]/ 2 inch long. Do not put your hand under or raise up to baste, shape. Follow the same instructions in basting the side body and under arm Place the lining on the goods. See that the front edge of the lining and goods meet. Pin the lining on a little easy, getting it all in place, then baste across the waist line, then line A. Now pin and baste the darts, which should br done very carefully, beginning at the top or point and basting down, using a V inch stitch. Now baste line E, starting from the waist line up. Baste shoulder next, then around the neck and arm hole with a y± inch stitch, being careful not to stretch the goods as it is cut partly on the bias. In taking up the darts, first pin carefully, beginning at the top of the dart and holding lines \ and K a little full for about 3 inches above the waist line, begin basting at the point of the dart, using a small firm stitch. These Tailoring Irons are up to date and the most practical irons to be had. They are cold handle and heat retainers. You can accomplish double the amount of work (without reheating) than with any other irons. The price is $2.00 per set (two irons and stand). We do not send them C. O. D. You cannot obtain them elsewhere. PRESSING CURVE TO JOIN. Take one side of the back and one side body, placing the two waist line; together and pin fast. Now pin in the traced or sewing lines, being careful nol to stretch either piece, so that both traced lines will come out even. Now -pin from the waist line down ; begin basting at the waist line, removing the pins as you baste, making a small stitch, not over y^ inch. Now baste down from the waist line. Take the under arm shape and pin to the side body, being careful to have the waist lines meet ; baste from waist line up and down. Now join the back, pin- ning at the waist line, and then in the traced lines up and down ; begin basting at the waist line up, then down. TO STITCH. First see that the tension in the machine is not too tight, and a medium stitch (not too short), run the machine with an easy, steady motion (not too fast). Use silk in stitching in every case. Begin the back seams starting at the neck, and stitch just inside of the basting, stretching the seam well for about 8 inches above the waist line, while stitching, in order that the seam will give to the bone when that is sprung in so as not to break the stitch in the seam. Stitch the next, or side body seam, with the side body up, beginning at dot 2, and stitching down, just inside of the basting ; stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches above the waist line. Stitch the under arm shape on the side body, under arm shape up, beginning at dot 7, ar >d stitching down just inside of the basting, stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches above the waist line. To stitch the left side of the basque, begin at the bottom and stitch up, following the same instructions, this will place the side body and under arm shape the same as the right side. Front. — Stitch the right side first, beginning at the waist line and stitching up and down. Slightly curve the seam out at the point of the dart, beginning ^4 inch below the point of the dart, and finishing i^ inch above, nearly parallel with the thread of the goods ; this will obviate any fullness. PRESSING. First, remove the basting from the seams only. Never press a curved seam on a flat surface ; if you have nothing better turn a rocking-chair bottom up, and use the rocker. See that the iron is well heated — not too hot ; start pressing at the bottom of the waist ; take plenty of time and be careful that the iron does not come in contact with any other part of the waist. Do not stretch the seams. If heavy woolen material the seam can be slightly moistened. This curved pressing board is as necessary to the dressmaker as it is to the ladies' tailor. Every waist, sleeve, dart in skirt, and any curved seam in any garment should be pressed over the curved presser. This curve must not be copied without our consent. The price is |i.oo. TO PREPARE FOR BONING. First take the back seam and notch at the waist line and then 3 and 6 inches above ; then trim and round the seam off" at the notches ; now either overhand or bind the seam ; if binding is used be careful and put it on slightly full so as to prevent any tightness on the seam. Notch the side body or curved seam at the waist line and z l / 2 , 5 and 8 inches above waist line ; after notching finish off the seam the same as back, the seam that joins the under arm shape to the side body notch at waist line and z]^ and 5 inches above and finish the same as the other seams. Front. — Cut open the dart to within 3^ inch of the point and trim the wide part down to y 2 inch in width. Notch the first dart at the waist line and 2 inches above, and the second dart at waist line and z and 4 inches above waist line, and finish the same as the other seams. (The reason for notching the seams is to allow them to spring into the form and prevent binding. ) Now fold the front hem in along line A, and baste y, inch back to prepare the front for button holes or hooks and eyes. When buttons are used, it is well to place a narrow strip of lining or canvas between the fold to stay the button holes. Do not turn in the r& j[^#i|!a ?sf> Warren's Featherbone Is the Standard Dress Stiffening of the world. Its peculiar quill construction makes it the lightest, most durable and flexible dress- boning material on the market. Warren's Featherbone is used and recom- mended bv such prominent fashion creators as Mme. L. Stewart, of Arnold, Constable & Co. Mr. Paul Sarraco, of" John Wanamaker. Mme. Gabler, of Lord & Taylor. Mr. Henry Levy, of Stern Bros. Miss S. C. Griffiths, of Alcott & WeeKes. Mr. H R. Hickson, of Everall Bros. Mrs. Frazer, of Simpson, Crawford & Simpson Mr. I. Levy, of Jas. McCreery & Co. Mr. S. Brown, Ladies' Tailor, New York. , The Bergdorf-Goodman Co., Robes et Manteaux, New York. Moschowitz Bros., Ladies' Tailors, New York. Redfern's, Robes, New York. Isn't that good evidence of its worth ? Accept no substitute, but get Warren's, the one and only Featherbone. Sold by all dealers. None genuine without the feather trademark. Send for "Featherbone Meth- ods." It's FREE. The Warren Featherbone Co. General Offices, Three Oaks, Mich. New York, 808 Broadway Boston, 7 Temple Place Chicago, 704 Harshall Field Annex Building left side, as that is used as a fly, by putting on a tape just back of line A. t0 s,a . v the buttons. When • hooks and eyes are used it is well to turn back and fold the lining along line A, an d stitch '& inch back from the edge. It is best to place a bone in each edge of thr lior>t in order to keep the waist from running up ; to do this begin even with the point of the dart and stitch down y£ inch further in (or the width of the bone. ) The bone should be placed in before putting on the hooks and eyes. The hooks should be placed back yfa inch from edge, and the eyes just even with the edge. Face over the hooks and eyes with a narrow bias strip. Real whalebones are always good and should be prepared by soaking in cold or tepfid water. (Never in hot, as that makes them brittle.) We also recom- mend Feather Bone. When the single casing is used, it should be sewed on firmly and held full from 1 inch below the waist line to 4 or 5 inches above, the balance put in slightly full. Turn the end of the binding down forming a loop about 1 inch long and fasten firmly. Round the end of the bone off" smoothly and force it in the casing from bottom to the top of the loop. Then fasten tight by sewing through the casing only y^ inch below the top of bone. Now force the bone up so as to remove the fulness in the casing and fasten firmly 3 inches above the waist line. Then hoop the bone so as to take out the greater part of the fullness in the casing, and fasten firmly 1 inch below the waist line. When double casing is used, cut the casing 2 inches longer than the bone, place the bone in the casing, turn the upper end of the casing down I y£ inches and fasten, the balance to be turned up at the bottom and fastened. Now sew the lower end of the bone firmly on seam • inch up from the bottom of the waist. Now spring the bone \! z inch and fasten firmly to the seam y^ mcn below end of the bone. Sew both sides to the seam down to within 3 or 4 inches of the waist line. This will force the hoop part within the proper position. Now sew from the bottom up on both sides. The length of the bone for the back should be V? of the back measure. Use a bone 2 inches shorter for the curved or side body seam. The bones for each side of the under arm shape seams should be 1 inch shorter than the under arm measure. The bones for the darts in front should come to within yi ' ncn of the point ot the dart. Fasten y4 inch below the top of the bone. Co.vered and ever ready steels are put on in the same manner as the bones'in the double casing. A nice finish for the bones is to feather stitch them, with twist or embroidery silk, using some pretty contrasting color. Now put the waist together, joining the front to the under arm shape, begin- ning at the waist line and pinning up. Then pin down from the waist line. Baste- the same as the other seams from the waist line up and down. Now join the shoulder, stretch the front shoulder y4 inch so as to join evenly with the back and pin and baste with the front towards you. The back shoulder can be put on full, should you not be able to stretch the front fufficiently to meet it. Press well. Trim the seam down y? inch and notch in the center and stitch and finish the same as other seams. Before stitching the under arm seam, take your tape line and measure the waist and bust lines and see if they correspond exactly with your measure. Pin the waist lines together aYid shape the bottom of the waist as desired. Prepare the canvass for the bottom by cutting a bias strip 1 l /, inches deep, stretching it as you baste to fit the shape at the bottom. Then turn up canvas and material together \o inch and catch it down slightly to the lining, this will make a smooth and firm edge for the bottom of the waist. Now cut the facing bias I y? to 2 inches wide, pin firmly on, stretching so as to shape smoothly to the waist and turning in \i inch at the bottom ready for felling. Turn the upper edge in and fell with a light stitch, being careful not to catch through the lining. Measure the neck of the dress and add 3^ inch to the measure and draft collar according to instructions. Use tailor canvas for foundation. It the canvas is Side Plaiters French Accordion Button Making and Pinking Machines These moulds are manufactured in the following widths ready for use. Prices as follows: 12 inches wide, 9 yds long in frame $3.50 18 " " 9 " " " 5.00 24 " " 9 " " " 7.50 36 " " 9 " " " 12.00 48 " "9 " " " 18.00 These machines will plait any kind of material. We furnish a full instruction sheet with each machine. Order direct from the VIENNA INSTITUTE 5 West 14th Street, N. Y. City, U. S. A. used double, then stitch it cross and lengthwise in order to give it firmness. Fn the canvas on the material and cut j£ inch larger all around. Cut the lining the same size. Now baste the canvas on the material and fold over the edge and baste to the canvas. Catch down to the canvas with a long stitch without catch- ing through. Get the centre of the collar and pin to the centre of the back. Then pin around to the front, then slip stitch on to the neck of the dress. Place the hooks on the right end of the collar and the eyes on the left. Now baste the lining on. Turn in the edge all around, beginning at the top and fell down. A waist is never finished without a belt, as that holds it firmly in position, if put in properly. Cut the belt 2 inches longer than the waist measure and finish off j4 inch less than the waist measure by turning in each end and placing hook and eye so that the two ends will meet. Pin the centre of the belt to centre seam in the back having the lower edge of the belt y% inch above the waist line. Then pin to the side body seams and cross stitch to the three seams. HOOKS AND EYES. Fold the lining on line A and stitch % inch from the edge. First mark for hooks and eyes, placing them I inch apart. Spread the rings in both hook and eye % inch apart, this prevents slipping out or gaping in the front. Sew the hook to the inside, with the bill even with the stitched line. Sew through each ring three times, then over each branch, then under the bill, near line A- Now place the eye on the next mark so that the bow will extend slightly over line A- Sew through the rings the same as the hook, and then at each side of the bow. Sew on alternatively until even with the top of. the darts. Then all hooks on the right side, face with lining 1 inch deep. SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS. Place the lining on the material, having the warp in each running the sami way (the diagram shows the sleeve running the right way). Pin the lining on before cutting. Place the cloth on the table wrong side up, then place the lining on the cloth right side up, pin the lining on easy, baste through the center of the sleeve lengthwise with a 1 inch stitch, then baste in the traced lines, beginning at dot 5» ar >d baste up and down, using a y-i inch stitch. Baste the outside seam in the same manner, then baste top and bottom. Baste the under part in the same manner. Join by placing dots 5 together and pin up and down in the tracing. Fold the top of the sleeve down, having dot 2 me et the end of line C and dot 1 1 meeting dot 9- Pin up and down to within 1 y 2 inches of dot 6> this will leave about |/£ mc ^ w hich must be eased in to the elbow. Baste in the tracing with a ^ inch stitch, with the upper part next to you. First stitch the inside and then the back seam just inside the basting, with the upper part next to the feed of the machine. Remove the basting from the seams. Trim the seams down to *4 inch and notch the front seam at dot 5 an d 3 and 6 inches above and 3 inches below. Round off the notches and press over a curved seam bound. Seams can be overcast or bound to correspond to the waist. Face the bottom the same as the waist. Place a notch at the top 2 inches from the back seam and 3 inches from the front seam. Gather between the notches y4 > nc h from the'end. Place the sleeve in, holding it towards you, pinning the front seam on a direct bias from the point of the last dart. Pin the under arm smooth up to the back notch. Pin from the front seam to the notch easy. Draw up the gathers, giving the most fullness at the top. Baste with a small stitch. It is always best to sew the sleeve in with a firm back stitch. Trim off and overcast. Shields should be tacked lightly through the tape. Never place the needle through the rubber. The fullness in the French sleeve can be entirely removed by taking a dart at the elbow (see dotted lines), or it can be gathered for about z inches under the point of the elbow. INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SKIRT. Draft the skirt linings according to instructions. Place the goods on the table right side up and see that they are perfectly smooth. Place the fold of the front linin g even with the fold of the goods, bottom at the lower end of goods, and SKIRT RULE In order to obtain perfection in stitching skirts you should have a skirt rule about 45 inches long, in order to give a perfectly straight seam. These rules are marked in inches both ways. If you expect to do perfect work you must have good tools. The price is 95 cents. IMPORTED FRENCH SILVERED STEEL When a less expensive stay than a whalebone is desired we would advise the French watch spring silvered steels. They give perfect satisfaction to our customers. They are very flexible and strong. We prepay postage except in gross lots. Price, per dozen properly as- sorted, 25 cents; by the gross $2.00. pin firmly, then cut the goods. In cutting the side gores place the straight edge of the lining even with the selvedge of the goods and pin fast and cut. Cut the other gores in the same manner ; always see that the thread of the lining and the thread of the goods run the same way. Cut the stiffening to match each separate piece having the thread of the stiffening run the same as the thread of the goods. This can be cut any desired width ; from I o to 1 8 inches is best. The stiffening can be basted on the wrong side of the lining with a stitch 3 or 4. inches long. Now stitch across the top without turning in. Then pin the out- side material on the wrong side of the lining so that the stiffening will come be- tween the lining and the goods. Baste through the center of the front with a 1 )A inch stitch, beginning at the top and fastening the thread off at the bottom of skirt, then baste at each side 2 inches from the edge, beginning at the top and basting down and across the bottom. Baste the remaining parts in the same manner. Place the bias side of the front to the selvedge of the first side gores pinning the seam down '4 inch from the edge. Extreme care must be taken not to stretch the bias edge. Now baste, using a '^ ' ncn stitch. It is absolutely necessary to have all seams perfectly straight, and to do this it is best to have a long straight rule (about 45 inches), and mark a line just outside of the basting to guide the stitching. Stitch with the bias side down next to the feed, stitching one side up, the other down. Remove the basting and trim the seam evenly ready for hinding or overhanding. Pressing. — Care should be taken to prevent wrinkles forming on the material when pressing, as it is quite impossible to remove a wrinkle formed by the iron ; open the seam well before placing the iron on ; bear well on the iron when pressing so as to give a flat seam. Turn the skirt right side out and place on the table. Take the center of the front and pin in the double at the top. Now pin the corresponding seams together at the top, then the center of the back, draw each seam down evenly and pin at the bottom. Take tape measure and measure down the center of the front the length of the front skirt measure and mark. Now measure down the first seam y inch more than the skirt measure and mark, measure down the center of the gore the same distance and mark. The next seam (or directly over the point of the hips) should be one inch longer than the skirt measure ; make the remaining part of the skirt the same length. When the back measure is shorter than the front, the difference should be taken from the top of the skirt sloping from the point of the hips back. Trim the bottom of the skirt y inch longer than you have marked. Now turn up the bottom y^ inch and baste down, then catch to lining, being careful that the stitch does not come through. (If a facing is desired, cut about 6 to 8 inches deep on the bias and stretch slightly at the bottom so as to prevent too much fullness at the top, tack the bottom with a medium stitch, turn in the top and fell down to the lining of the skirt.) To put the velvet on the bottom, fold the velvet over '4 inch and place it on the bottom so that it will drop y£ inch below the edge of the skirt, then turn the velvet in at the top and fell down. Make the placket hole from 9 to 1 o inches long and face the opposite side to the fly which should be about 1 inch deep and finished in the double. The facing can be about 1 l A inches deep and finished firm across the bottom. Cut the band 2 inches longer than the waist measure, making it 1 inch wide. Turn in the band 'X inch on each end, mark off 1 inch for the fly on the lift end. Take one half of the waist measure from the mark and pin to the center of the front, pin the skirt on the band easy on each side to the last gore. The back can be either gathered or plaited ; sew on by hand or machine and finish with one or two large hooks and eyes. Place hangers on each side of the inside of the belt. THE FRENCH METHOD. The French method to finish a skirt is to seam the cloth and lining separately, taking care to make the seams in both cloth and lining the same. Press the seams in the lining open. Shape the canvas or hair cloth around the bottom, having it run the same thread as the lining, cutting it from 6 to 1 2 inches deep (always make a lapped seam in any kind of stiffening.) Shrink hair cloth and linen before cutting. When hair cloth is used the lapped seam should be strapped with the lining about 1 inch wide so as to cover the raw edges of the hair cloth. The upper edge of the hair cloth should always be bound with a narrow bias strip, this should be basted on very carefully, holding the hair cloth easy so as to prevent stretching. Pin the stiffening around the bottom on the wrong side and baste top and bottom to the lining. If canvas, stitch to the lining i^ inch from the edge. If hair cloth, stitch through the binding. Press the seams in the skirt and place the lining on the table wrong side up. Place the center of the front of cloth even with the center of the front of the lining. Pin the center at the top and then at the seams, each side. Now smooth the cloth down and pin in position so as to leave the lining easy. Baste down the center of front with a i inch stitch, then each side seam, and finish the balance of the skirt in the same manner, being careful to have the cloth stretched sufficient to make the lining easy. Now pare off the cloth at the back seam even with the lining and join the back seam lining and cloth together, leaving 9 or 10 inches open at the top for placket. Finish the balance of skirt as per previous instructions. DROP SKIRT. A drop skirt is made by seaming the material and lining separately. When silk lining is used (which is' most desirable for a drop skirt) it should be cut from 8 to 1 2 inches shorter than the skirt length (according to the width of knife pleating used. ) It will require three times the width of the skirt for knife pleating. When ruffles are used cut the skirt the full length, allowing 2 inches tor hem. The outside material should be cut 3 or 4 inches longer than the actual skirt length to allow tor hem, which should be blind stitched over. (See instructions for blind stitching.) Place the band on the silk petticoat according to previous instructions. Now arrange the skirt on the band of the petticoat in plaits or gathers as desired. To make a clean finish, place a seam binding on Hat to cover the unfinished edge, stitching on both edges to the band. A drop skirt should always be fitted before finishing, as it is apt to sag around the hips and back. VERY ERECT FORMS. Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have a narrow back in propor- tion to their bust measure. Take a width of back measure, starting at the center of the back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measure to the arm hole or where the arm hole should come, and use this measure instead of 14, of the bust measure given in the instructions, to locate dot 12- For instance take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure, if the width of back was 6, this would indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. Draft line E fr° m dot 2 to dot 5- In drafting the front take the difference between 42 (the actual measure) and 36 (the measure used in drafting the back) which is 6. Now take 2/ 3 of 6, which is 4, added to 42, makes 46. Now use a 46 bust and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. FOR THE NEW FRENCH FORM. Use the instructions for very erect forms and make the following additional changes. When the front measure is 2 inches longer than the back, draft line E (in the back) from dot 2 to dot 5. draft line B (> n the side form) beginning 1 inch below dot 4- Make line A ln the under arm form the same length as line B in the side body. Measure up from dot 3) > n the under arm form) I inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 7» an d draft line B> extending I inch below dot 3^ In drafting the front, lower the points of the darts 1 inch and draft line K with the yi mark, curve in. The diagram will show the cor- rect draftings. If you find alterations necessary they are usually caused by an error in taking measure in drafting, basting, or by a mistake on the part of the worker. Always measure for draftings before tracing and cutting your linings. Do not neglect this. Grean Designer of Liadies' Costumes Models for the Trade And COSTUMES TO ORDER No. 19 East 33d Street NEW YORK Formerly 327 Fifth Avenue ' X ifie waist, draw it in proper position on the form, then fasten down . 5 "iiit and see it there we any changes necessary. If you find wrinkles in the back near the neck, it is probably caused by a too long back measure. Open the shoulder seams and draw up the extra fullness from the back, this will necessitate the cutting off" of about Y 2 inch from line (J- If the waist, draws to one side it is because the center back seam was not joined evenly. Rip the seam and make sure that the waist lines meet and that the basting is directly in the tracing. Should the front of the waist bind across the bust it is because the bust measure has been taken too tight. Let out the under arm seam — in most cases that will answer. When the waist is loose over the bust, the front measure has been taken too long. Open the shoulder seam and draw up the front to fit. It the front draws in the same place let it out at the shoulder seams. If the arm's eye gaps in front, it is because the lining has been stretched. Take a small dart in the lining and then draw the outside material smooth over the lining and take out the extra fullness at the under arm seam. To obviate this trouble always run a small thread around the arm's eye when the basting is done. Fullness at the top of the last dart is caused by the lining being drawn too tight in seaming. Remove the basting and draw the material tight over the lining. For a French bias dart, fold a small plait in the lining at the point of dart towards the arm's eye before basting the lining to the goods. Wrinkles in the under arm form is usually caused by the front edge of the side body being stretched in basting to the under arm form. It will be neces- sary to open the seam and full the lining a little more on the under arm form and baste the stretched edge easy back again to the under arm form. Wrinkles between the last dart and the under arm form are usually caused bv the back seam of the dart being stretched. This side ot the dart should always be basted in easy. Wrinkles are often caused by uneven stitching or too tight a tension on machine or the seams not being properly clipped. Fullness on the shoulder, near the neck, is caused by high shoulders. (See instructions to locate the height of shoulders.') Open the seam at the point of shoulder, this will allow the waist to drop and remove the fullness. This change will necessitate an alteration in the curved seam joining the back. To Avoid Alterations. — Be very careful in taking the measure. See that the drafting is properly done and basted carefully in the traced lines. Read in : structions for basting and stitching with care and you will seldom have alterations. Pads can be made by cutting the lining the size required and place sufficient layers of cotton wadding to get the proper thickness. Draw out some ot the cotton at the edges to make it thin, then tack the lining, using an inch stitch, catching the lining very lightly. These pads can be lined if desired. When one shoulder is lower than the other use a pad to make it correspond with the high one. When one hip is high pad the other side. For a flat bust the dress can be cut two bust numbers larger and use canvas and cotton to enlarge. When a woman has a full bust, and hollow next to the arm, use a pad tacked under the shield. INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAILORING. To obtain the most satisfactory results it is necessary to select an all wool cloth (not dress goods) with a sufficient body to permit ot its being shaped to the form with the iron. You cannot obtain the same effect in all cloths, some will need much more pressing than others. All cloths for tailoring must be sponged to prevent both shrinking and spotting. The most simple and effective way to do do this is to take a piece of bleached or unbleached muslin y 2 yard longer than the cloth to be sponged. Wet it thoroughly and wring out well. Lay the muslin over the table, place the cloth on the muslin (leaving it in the fold) y 2 yard from the end of muslin. Fold the end of muslin over the end of cloth and roll it all together smoothly and let it remain for 6 to 8 hours, as it must be thoroughly and evenly dampened. After removing the goods from sponges place it over the pressing board (which should be about 36 inches long and 20 inches wide) and press lengthwise of the cloth with a hot iron, placing a cotton cloth over tbe goods to prevent scorching, be sure that the cloth is thoroughly dry before cutting, as it is not perfectly shrunk until dry. (i C thoroughly experienced) for all light or medium weight cloth t S ' $ y \ N • \ mm It is best light or medium weight cloth to use a soft cambric interlining in coat or jacket. (See waist instructions for tracing, cut- ting and basting. ) it is well, particularly for those inexperienced, to fit the jacket before stitching. Use a tailor linen canvas for the front in the place ot interlining, which should be thoroughly shrunk and pressed smoothly before using. Cut the canvas and cloth according to the drafted instructions, including the reveres. Baste the dart in the canvas, then join the front at the under arm seam and shoulder with the seams out, including the dart seam and shape the canvas perfectly to the form. This will require judgment, as a great deal of the fine work comes in here. You may find it necessary to stretch the canvas at the shoulder, or to place a V in according to the figure. ' (Lap all seams in canvas.) Place a dart in the arm's eye. You may find it necessary to take a plait at the waist line, from the dart to the under arm seam; cut and lap the seam. Cut and lap the regular dart seam, it will be necessary to use an extra-thickness of canvas, beginning about 2 or 3 inches below the point of the dart and extending to about 3 or 4 inches below the shoulder seam. When an extra foundation is required, an additional piece of canvas or hair cloth can be added (see diagram for the shape of both.) Begin stitching at the point of dart, going around in circles about % inch apart (see dotted lines in diagram. ) The canvas is now- ready to be pressed into shape. Use the small pad and dampen when fullness is to be removed (use a hot iron.) Stitch the dart in the cloth and press open. Place the pocket in the r'oth before basting on the canvas. (See instructions for making pockets). Take the cloth and smooth it out over the canvas, basting in traced lines with £ inch stitch. Baste up each side of the dart to the shoulder, with a i/ inch stitch. Stretch the cloth over the canvas each side of the down line A and around the across the shoulder. ^ "^ 2 *# *x 2 3^ 3 Neck Size 8 9 IO 1 1 I 2 »3 •4 Dot 3 2 5/6 *% z% 3 3^8 3# 3->"8 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr° m line A, and place dot 3- Place letter Q on dot 2, and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 6 '., inches on line B from dot 3» an d place dot 4- Measure 2*4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5- Place letter A °n dot 3. the edge of" curve on dot 5» and draft line D the proportionate length of shoulder. (See table). Measure I l / 2 inches less than y% of the arm's eye measure straight down from the end of line D and place dot 6. Place the short arm of the square on line A. the long arm on dot 6 and draft line E straight out 3 inches from dot (}. Without moving the square place dot 7 on line A. at the corner of the square. Measure 1 >£ inches more than U of" the bust measure on line E from dot 7> and place dot 8- Measure 1 '^ inches straight up from dot 6 and place dot 9- Place letter D on dot 9, and draft line F to dot $$• Place the point of curve on dot 9> and extend line F to the end of line J). Measure straight down from dot 7 on line A> the length of under arm and place dot IfJ- Draft line (J straight out from dot 10- Measure 1 inch more than )/± of waist measure on line G from dot 10, and place dot \\. Draft line H from dot 8 to dot H. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12- Measure \\' z inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13- Place letter A on dot H, and draft line J to dot 13- Draft line K straight in from dot 13 to line A. The dotted lines show the width of plait in front. BACK. Use the fold of goods for line A- Draft line B Yx inch from the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B, and place dot 2- NECK TABLE. Dot 2 -'8 ,'/2 5 /8 Neck Size 8 '-'4 9 1 74 IO 11 12 13 2 3/8 >4 Dot 3 2 2'8 2^ Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A, and place dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 6 l A inches on line B from dot 3. and place dot 4- 1 Measure 1 ;4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5- Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 5 and draft line D the pro- portionate length of shoulder. Measure I Y\ inches less than l /^ of arm's eye measure straight down from the end of line D and place dot 6. Place the short arm of square on line A> the long arm on dot 6, and draft line E ° ut 3 inches from dot 6- ^ f£\ rg Measure i inch more than y£ of" bust measure on line E from line A. and place dot 7- Place the point of curve ^ inch in from dot 7 on line E, and draft line F to the end of line ]). Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2, and place dot 8- Measure straight down from dot 1 the length of under arm and place dot 9. Draft line G from dot 8. to dot 9. Measure I # inches more than y( of the waist measure on line G from dot 8, and place dot 10- Draft line H from dot 7 to dot 10. Measure 4'- inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Measure )£ inch out from dot H and place dot 12. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12. Draft line K straight in from dot 12 to line A. Take measure the same as for children and omit taking the front measure. MEASURE 8 YEARS. Bust _ 2 ; "Vaist _ 23 >ack _ I2 i^ Under Arm r 1/ Neck , Arm's Eye. n NECK BAND. Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure yi the shirt neck measure on line A from line B, and place dot. 2. Draft line C i% inches straight out from dot 2. Measure 1 y£ inches on line C from dot 2, and place dot 3. Measure zi/^ inches out line B from line A, and place dot 4. Draft line j) from the end of line C to dot 4. Measure I inch in from dot 4 on line B» and place dot 5, Measure |/£ inch on line D from dot 4, and place dot 6. Draft line E from dot 5 to dot 6. Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line F to dot 2. Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 3. Allow y£ inch for seams on lines F and G. BOY'S COAT. BACK. Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B, and place dot 2. NECK TABLE. Dot 2 X N X Neck Size 7 8 9 10 1 1 1 2 13 H Dot 3 1 i)4 »tf i-ys *# lS/ 8 aft I 7, 8 Measure vhe distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A. and place dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure 6 }4 inches on line B from dot 3, and place dot 4. Measure 3 l/^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 5, and draft line D 1 inch longer than the proportionate shoulder measure. Measure y£ inch less than y£ of the arm's eye measure straight down from the end of line D and place dot 6. Measure j£ inch straight in from dot 6 and place dot 7. Place the point of curve on dot ^ and draft line E to the end of line D. Measure the length of" back down line A fr° m dot 2, and place dot 8. Measure the length of coat on line A from dot 2, and place dot 9. Draft line F straight out from dot 8. Measure j£ inch on line F from dot 8. and place dot 10. Draft line Q, beginning 6 inches below dot 2 and draft to dot 10. Extend line Q to meet line A. 5 inches below dot 8. Measure 2 inches less than i^ of waist measure on line F fr° m dot 8. and place dot H. Place letter Q on dot 7. and draft line H to dot H. Draft line J straight out from dot 9. Measure Ijt inch more than the distance between dots 8 and H from dot 9» and place dot 12- Continue line H from dot 11 to dot 12. B BOY'S COAT. FRONT. Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B one inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 °n line A fr° m '> ne and place dot 2- XECK TABLE. Dot 2 *x z% ^A\ 3 1% V/A 3% 4 Neck Size 7 8 4 9 1 lo 1 1 I z «3 '4 Dot 3 3# 4^1 \% 4^ \% \Vz 4?'4 Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A> and place dot 3- Measure 6 \4 inches from dot 3 on li ne B. and place dot 4. Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 3. the edge on dot 5> and draft line C ' inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure. Place letter Q on the end of line (J, and draft a curved line to dot 3- (See diagram) . Draft line D straight down from the end of line (J- Draft line E I i i inches straight out from dot 2' Place letter C on the end of line E. and extend line E to dot 3- Measure 2 inches less than l / 2 the arm's eye measure on line A fr° m dot 2. and place dot 6- Draft line F straight out from dot (J, beginning 6 inches from dot 6- Measure 1 3/£ inches less than 'i,' of the chest measure on line F from dot 6. and place dot 7- Measure the length of under arm measure down line D fr° m nne F> and place dot 8. Place short arm of square even with line A» the long arm on dot 8» a "d draft line G out from line A ' i ncn more than V 3 ' the waist measure a.id place dot 9. Place the corner of square on dot 7. the edge on dot 9» and draft line H down about 1 8 inches. Place the corner of square on dot 9> tne e dge on dot 7» and measure up the distance between dot \\ and ^ in the back and place dot 10. Place the point cf curv^ on dot 10 and draft a curved line to meet line H 6 inches below dot 9. Measure 1 inch up line D from line F. an d place dot H. Measure 1 j4 inches straight in from dot H and place dot 12. Place the X point of curve on dot 10, and draft to line F. Place the point of curve on dot 12, and draft to the junction of lines F and D- Place letter K on dot 12 and draft to the end of line (J. Measure down line H from dot 9, the distance between dots H and i* m the back and place dot 13. ,. , j„„ Measure down from dot 8 I inch more more than the distance between dots 9 Placer ton d l! 4 i3, the ed g e of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to ^ PlLe" S O hr °pofn h t tit on the end of line J and draft to the junction of lines G and A. To draft this coat double breasted, follow the dotted lines. Cut the collar on the biasot the material. BOY'S COAT SLEEVE. UPPER SLEEVE. Draft line A % in ^ from the edge ot cloth. Draft line B ' % inches fr° m the end ot cl ? th ; , „ Measure i inch on line A from line B, and place dot 2- Measure 2 inches less than the hand measure on line B from hne A. and place dot 3- Drzft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- . - ,. D „i Measure .inch less than % the length of sleeve on me A from hne B, and P ^Measure' V, inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure % inch less than % of arm's eye measure straight out from dot 5 "Ivlt^ , inch more than V 2 the length of sleeve from dot 4 on line A, and place dot 7- , „ Draft line D 9 inches straight out from dot 7- Measure ; U inches down line A from dot 7, and place dot 8 Measure \% inches more than % of arm's eye measure on hne D from dot 7, and place dot 9- . . , , j . i i Measure . inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 5- Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to dot 8^ Place the point of curve on dot 9 and draft line F to dot *. Place the point of curve on dot 11 and draft me G to dot 9 - Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line H to dot 1L Place letter M on dot 6 and extend line H to dot &. Allow ■ Xt inches on the lower end of sleeve for facing. (See diagram ) . Mow /inch for seams on lines E and H- Cut on lines F and G- UNDER SLEEVE. Draft line A % inch from the edge of cloth - Draft line B ' % inches from the end ot cloth Measure I inch up line A from line B. and place dot 2- Measure \ Inches less thin the measure around the hand on hne B rrom hne A, and place dot 3 Draft line C from dot 2> to dot 3- ,. . .- id .,, i Measure .inch less than % the length of sleeve on hne A from line B, and ? Measure •■, inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure l% inches less than % the arm's eve measure straight out from dor 5 Meat 3 " P;l length of sleeve on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7- Measure 2% inches down from dot 7 and place dot 8 Measure 3/ inch down line A from dot 8, and place dot 9- Measure finches less than * the arm's eve measure stra.ghr out from dor 7 "'plirtht !) pit of curve on dot 9 and draft line D to dot 10- Note-To place dot 10 measure % ^ >« s than * ° f arm ' S ^ "^ ure eft line D from dot 7 and place dot 10- Place the point ot curve on line D z inches rrom dot 9 and draft to dot 8- (See diagram). Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 5- Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to dot 8- Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line P to dot 1 Q. Place letter G on dot 6 and extend line F to dot 3- Allow 1 y^ inches on the lower end tor facing. (See diagram). Allow J/£ inch seam on lines E and F- Cut on line D- BOY'S COAT COLLAR. Draft lines A and B J^ ' ncn fr° m the edge and end or goods. Measure 3/jj inch on line A f rom une B> and place dot 2- Measure 2 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3- Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- Measure 1 inch more than l/ 2 of neck measure on line A trom dot 2> and place dot 4- Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Place letter H or > dot 3 and draft line E to dot 5- Measure \i inch out from dot 4 an d draft a slightly curved line to meet line A 2 inches from dot 4. Line E sews on the coat. Cut the collar on the bias of goods. MEASURE FOR BOY 8 YEARS. Chest 25 Waist 23 Back \z)/ z Under Arm 5 ]/ z Neck 10 Arm's Eye 13 Sleeve. . _ 17 Hand 7 Length of Coat 21 TO TAKE MEASURE FOR BOY S COAT. 3t=S=lf Chest. — Take this measure around the chest smooth not tight. Waist. — Take this measure rather snug. Buck. — Measure from the large joint in the back ot the neck to the waistline. Under Arm. — Take this measure well up under the arm down to the waist line. Arm' 1 Eye. — Take th's measure around over the point of shoulder smooth. Neck. — Around the bare neck smooth. S/eeve.—¥rom the point of shoulder to wrist. Hand. — Around the hand tight. BOY'S KNEE PANTS. Draft lines A and B '2 i ncn from the edge and end of cloth. Measure 3^ inch on line B fr° m line A> and place dot 2' Measuie l / 2 inch less than ^ of the waist measure on line B fr° m doc 2» and place dot 3- Measure 6*4 inches down line A fr° m '> ne B> ar| d place dot 4- Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure down line A from line B> the outside leg measure, and place dot 5. Draft line D straight out trom dot 5. Measure l A inch on line D from dot 5 a "d place dot 6. Measure up line A fr° m dot 5. the inside leg measure, and place dot 7- * Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 6, extending 1 inch below dot 6- Draft line F straight out from dot 7. Measure }4 inch less than j{ of the hip measure on line F from dot 7, and place dot 8. Measure )A inch less than % the measure around the knee from dot 6 and place dot 9. Measure I inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Draft line G from the end .of" line E to dot 10. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 8. Place the corner of square on dot 3. the short arm on line B, and draft line J straight down to line F. Measure z inches up line J from line F, and place dot H. Place letter D on dot 1 1 and draft line K to dot 8. BACK. Draft lines A and B '_> inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the table (according to waist measure) on line A from line B and place dot 2. Dot 2 Waist Measure zi/i 20 21 ^A 22 23 *H 24 25 26 27 3/4 28 29 Measure 1 % inches more than % of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. Measure 1 inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure I }( inches from dot 4 on line (J, and place dot 5. Measure 3 + ' inch on line C from dot 5, and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge even with line (J, and draft line D down 4^ inches. Draft line E from the end of line D to dot 5. Measure I % inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 4, the short arm on dot 7 and draft line F down the distance of outside leg measure. Measure 6 inches down line F from dot 4, and place dot 8. Draft line G 1 inch in towards line A from dot 8- Draft line H from dot 2 to the end of line G. Measure yt. inch less than the outside leg measure on line A from dot 2, and place dot 9- Draft line J straight out from dot 9. Measure the length of inside leg measure up line A from dot 9 and piace dot Draft line K straight out from dot 10. Measure J^ inch 0.1 line J in from line F, and place dot H. Measure 1 inch straight down from dot H and place dot 12. Place letter M on dot 12 and draft line L to meet line F 2 % inches below line K. Measure \]/ 2 inches more than % of the measure around the hips on line K from line F and place dot 13. Measure y 2 inch more than y 2 the measure around the knee from dot 1 1 and place dot 14- Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15. Draft line Dfl from dot 12 to dot 15. Place letter H on dot 15 and draft line N to dot 13. Measure 2 inches in from dot 13 on line K and place dot 16. Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter C on dot 17 and draft line to dot 13. Extend line Q from dot 17 to dot 3. BOY S KNEE PANTS MEASURE. 8 YEARS. Waist . . 24 Hips 34 Inside Leg Measure . I o Outside Leg Measure 18 Knee 11^ TO TAKE MEASURE FOR KNEE PANTS. Take the waist measure easy not tight. Take the hip measure snug. Take the inside leg measure from the crotch the length desired. Outside leg measure from waist line the length desired. Knee. — Around the knee snug. MEN'S SACK COAT. FRONT. Draft lines A an d B l A ' ncn from the edge and end of goods. Measure J^ of the neck measure on line A from line B. an d place dot 2- Measure l > inch less than ' 2 the neck measure on line B from line A> an d place dot 3- Measure 1 inch in from dot 3 an d ' Ys, inches straight down and place dot 4 Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 ar| d pl a ce dot 5- Place letter F on dot 5 ar >d draft line C t0 dot 4- Place letter C on dot 4 an d draft to dot 3- Measure V? of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B> ar, d place dot 6. Place letter \J on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 4 inches below dot 8- Place the corner of square on dot 6 an d draft line B straight out 8 inches, beginning 8 inches from dot (j Measure 3 \? inches less than \- c of the chest measure on line D fr° m dot Q, and place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on line A» a "d measure down the length of front measure less the length of line C > n the back and place dot 8- Measure l A inch less than '-i of the waist measure straight out from dot 8, and place dot 9- Measure J^ inch more than the length of coat on line A fr° m hie B. an d place dot 10- Place the corner of square on dot 10 a nd draft line E "straight out. Place letter R on une E 8 inches from dot 10 a nd draft line F to dot 8- Measure the length of shoulder on line B from dot 3 a nd place dot H. Measure lj^ inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12. Place letter V on dot 12 a nd draft line Q to dot 3- Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line B- Measure 1 1 J inches on line R from line D. an d place dot 13. Measure 1 inch less than y± of the arm's eye measure straight in from do 13 a nd place dot 14- Measure ^4 inch straight out from dot 13 a nd place dot 15. Place letter B on dot 15 a nd draft line S to meet line D 2 inches in from line R. Place the point of the curve on dot 14 and draft to meet line S- (Use the small round curve. ) Place letter K on dot 14 a nd extend line S to dot 12. Place the corner of square on the junction of lines R and B, the edge on dot 9 and draft line X straight from dot 9. Place letter H on dot 9 an d draft to meet line B }i inch out from dot 7. p lace- letter A on dot 15 a nd draft to meet line T 4 inches below line B Measure the distance between dot 10 and the junction ot' lines D and K in the back and then measure that distance down line T fr° m dot 15 and place dot 16. Place letter M on the end of line F and draft to dot 16. SACK COAT BACK. Draft lines A and B ' ' ncn from the edge and end of goods. Measure y> inch on line A "" om line B» and place dot 2. Measure l /> inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A. and place dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure the length of back measure on line A fr° m 'i ne B» and place dot 4. Measure one-fifth of the waist measure straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure the length of the coat (usually from 27 to 30 inches) on line A from line B» and place dot 6. Draft line D straight out the distance between dots 4 and 5. Place letter }ff on line A 1 % inches below dot 4 and draft to meet line A 8 inches below dot 2- Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3, and place dot 9. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place the corner of the square on dot 3» tne edge on dot 10 and draft line H the length of shoulder and place dot H. Measure l / 2 inch less than }( of the arm's eye measure straight down from dot 11 and place dot 12. Place the long arm of square on line A. the short arm on dot 12. and meas- ure lV inches less than % of chest measure and place dot 13. Place the point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H. Place letter P on dot 13 and draft line K to dot 5. Continue line K straight to the end of line D. TO TAKE MEASURE FOR COAT. Chest 1. — Around the chest, under the coat, take this measure easy not too tight. Waist 2." ^Around the waist, above the hips, easy not too tight. Front J. — From joint on back of neck to the waist line in front. Back 4. — From joint in neck to waist line. Under Ann 5. — From snug up under the arm to waist line. Shoulder 6. — Hold tape line snug against the neck to point of shoulder. Neck 7. — Around the neck easy above the collar. Arm's Eye 8. — Around the arm over the point of shoulder snug. COAT SLEEVE. First. — From point of shoulder to point of elbow. Second. — From point of elbow to hand. Third. — Around arm below shoulder the width desired. Fourth. — Around arm below elbow the width desired. Fifth. — Around hand the width desired. MEASURE FOR COAT. Chest 35 Waist. 3 1 Front 23 Back . 20 Under Arm 10 Shoulder. - - - - 6 Neck -- - 14 Arm's Eye 18 Length - 29 COAT SLEEVE. Draft lines A and B Yz inch from the edge and end of goods. . Measure I inch on line A from line B» and place dot 2- Measure I J4 inches more than \4 the hand measure on line B from "line A^ and place dot 3- Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- Measure y 2 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fro* line B> and place dot 4- Measure 3 + inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- Measure l inch more than '4 the second measure around arm straight out trom dot 5 an d place dot Q. Place letter W on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 2- Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A from dot 4» and place dot 7- Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- Measure 5 ]4 inches on line A from dot 7» and place dot 8- Draft line F straight out from dot 8- Measure J 3 of the first measure around the arm on line F from dot 8. and place dot 9. Measure I inch more than )/ 2 the first measure around the arm on line F from dot 8» and place dot 10- Measure 3 inches on line A from dot 7> and place dot \\. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12. Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line Q to dot 12. Place the point of curve on dot 9 and draft to dot 12. Measure 1 l ~ inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 13. Place letter T on dot 9 and draft line H to dot 13. Draft line J from dot 13 to dot 6. Place letter W on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 3. / UNDER PART OF COAT SLEEVE. Draft lines A and B '2 inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure 1 inch on line A from line B> and place dot 2- Measure y 2 inch less than X A the hand measure on line B from line A> and place dot 3. Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. Measure yi inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fr° m line B and place dot 4. Measure 3/g inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure \4 inch less than y? the second measure around the arm straight out from dot 5 and place dot Q. Place letter W on dot 5 and draft line D t0 dot 2. Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7. Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. Measure 4 inches on line A fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 2 j4 inches less than 14 the first measure around the arm straight ou: from dot 8 an d place dot 9. Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 9. Place letter Vf on dot 9 and draft line G to dot 6. Place letter M on dot 6 and draft line H to dot 3. MEASURE FOR COAT SLEEVE. Shoulder to Elbow . 15 Elbow to Wrist 10 Around Arm Below Shoulder 16^ Around Arm Below Elbow 1 5 *4 Around Hand 12 10 3 B COAT COLLAR. Draft lines A and B l /\ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure I y inches more than y^ of the neck measure on line A from line B, and place dot 2. Measure 3 3^ inches on line B from line A» and place dot 3. Draft line C 3 V? inches straight out from dot 2. Measure 2 inches on line C from dot 2» and place dot 4. Measure y x inch down from dot 2 on line A and draft line D to dot 4. Draft line E from dot 3 to the end of line (J- Place letter K on line E 4 inches from dot 3. and draft line F to dot 4- VEST— FRONT. Draft lines A id B ' inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure y 2 L ch less than ]A of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B, and place dot 2- Measure ^ inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A. and place dot 3- Measure y inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4- Place letter E on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 3^ inch down line A from dot 2. and % inch straight out and place dot 5. Draft from dot 4 to dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 3. the edge on line A. and measure down from dot 3 the length of front measure less the length of line (J in the back and place dot 6- Place letter W on dot 5, and draft line D to dot 6- Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 6 and 3^ inch straight out and place dot 7- Place letter F on dot 7 and draft to dot 6- Place the corner of square on dot 2 and measure straight out 2 inches more than y of chest measure and place dot 8- Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out 1 y, inchet more than j£ of waist measure and place dot 9- Place letter N on dot 9 and draft line E from dot 8 to \\/> inches below dot 9. Place letter Q on dot 7 and draft line F to the end of line E- Measure 1 inch less than the shoulder measure on line B from dot 3» and place dot 10. Measure 1 y, inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. Place letter (J on dot 1 1 and draft line Q to dot 3- Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 12- Measure 2 y inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13. Place letter D on dot 13 and draft line S to dot 8- Place letter on dot 13 and continue line S to dot H. Measure 2 inches in on line S from dot 8 and take a dart y inch and finish 1 y inches in. VEST— BACK. Draft lines A and B /'i inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure y inch on line A from line B. and place dot 2- Measure y of neck measure on line B» from line A» and place dot 3. Measure y% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4- Draft from dot 4 to meet line A 5 inches below dot 2- Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2. and place dot 8- Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft to meet line A }4 the length of back up from dot 8- Measure 2 inches more than y of the arm's eye measure on line A h"°m line B, and place dot 6- — cl B 2 a 2 Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out I Y inches mo*e than Y of the chest measure and place dot 7- Place the corner of square on dot 8 and measure straight out I Y inches more than Y of waist measure and place dot 9- Place letter H ' Y? inches below dot 9. the edge of curve on dot ^ and draft line E to dot ^ from letter H- Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft line F to the end of line E- Measure z inches less than the shoulder measure on line B fr° m dot 3» and place dot \Q. Measure 3 % inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Draft line Q from dot 3 to dot H. Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 7 and place dot 12- Measure 2 Y inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13- Place the point of curve on dot ^ and draft line S to dot 13- (Use the round edge) . Place letter K on dot 13 and extend line S to dot \\. NOTCHED COLLAR. Draft lines A and B Y i" cn n ' om tne e< ^8 e ano - en< * °^ goods- Measure 2 J 2 inches more than Y of the front measure on line A from line B, and place dot 2- Measure 2 Y inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3- Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line C t0 m eet line A 8 inches from dot 2- Measure 3 inches up line A from dot 2 and 3 l/ 2 inches straight out and place dot 5- Place letter M on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5- Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 5- Place the corner of square so that the 1 inch mark will rest on lines D and E. and draft lines P and G- (See diagram). TO TAKE MEASURE FOR VEST. Chest 1. — Around the chest under the coat, just a smooth measure. Waist 2. — Around waist under the coat easy, not too tight. Front J. — From joint in back of neck to waist line in front. Back 4. — From joint in neck to waist line. Under Arm j.— -Snug from under the arm to waist line. Shoulder 6. — Hold the tape line snug against the neck and measure to the point of shoulder. Neck 7. — -Around the neck above the collar easy. Arm' s .fy^.— Around the arm over the point of shoulder snug. MEASURE FOR VEST. Chest 34 Waist 30 Front 23 Back 20 Under Arm . . . " 10 Shoulder. 6 Neck . 14 Arm's Eye 18 TROUSERS. FRONT. Draft lines A and B V2 inch from the end and edge of goods. Measure 1 Y inches on line B from line A. and place dot 2- Place letter P on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 7 inches below line B- Measure the outside leg measure on line A from line B. and place dot 3 Draft line C straight out from dot 3- Measure 3 incnes straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4- Place the corner of square on dot 4 and draft line D to meet line A 8 inches below line B- Measure up line A from dot 3 the length of inside leg measure and place dot 5- Draft line E straight out from dot 5- Measure the distance from knee to bottom, up line A fr° m dot 3» and place dot 6- Draft line p straight out from dot 6- Measure y£ of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 7 Measure yi of the hip measure on line E from dot 5 and place dot 8- Measure 2j^ inches on line E m from dot 8 and place dot 9- Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10- Draft line 6 from dot ^ to dot 10- Place letter D on dot 10 and continue line G to dot 8- Measure }4 the knee measure on line F fr° m li ,le D and place dot H. Place letter S on dot 1 1 and draft line H to dot 8- Measure }4 or the bottom on line C fr° m dot 4 and place dot 12- Continue line H from dot 1 1 to J^ inch inside of dot 12- Place the corner of square on dot 12 and draft to meet line H 7 inches up. Place letter P on dot 12 and draft to dot 4- BACK. Draft lines A and B '2 ' ncn fr om the edge and end of goods. Measure 1 l X inches more than y£ of the waist measure on line B from line A, and place dot 2- Measure 3 H inches on line A from line B> and place dot 3- Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3 Measure y$ of the waist measure on line C fr om dot 3> and place dot 4- Measure l± inch from dot 4 on line (J, and place dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge even with line C» and draft line D down 4 inches. Draft line E from dot 4 to the end of line D- Measure y 2 inch less than the outside leg measure on line A fr° m dot 3. and place dot 6- Draft line P straight out from dot 6. Measure y^ inch less than the inside leg measure up line A from dot 6. and place dot 7- Draft line G straight out from dot 7- Measure y£ inch less than the measure from knee to bottom on line A up from dot Q and place dot 8- Draft line H straight out from dot 8- Measure 2^ inches on line G fr° m dot 7> and place dot 9- Measure 3 yt inches less than 14 of hip measure on line G fr° m dot 9. and place dot 10- Measure 4^2 inches on line H from dot 8 and place dot H. Measure 6 inches on line F from dot 6. and place dot 12- Place letter S on dot 3 and draft line J to dot 9- Place the corner of square on dot 12, the edge on dot H, and draft line J extending 3 inches above dot H. Place letter S on dot 9 and draft to meet line J. Measure I inch in on line F from dot 12 and place dot 13- Place letter U on dot 13 and draft to meet line J 8 inches up. Measure 2 }4 inches in on line G from dot 10, and place dot 14- Draft line K from dot 2 to dot 14- Place the point of curve on dot 10 and draft to meet line K 4^ inches up from dot 14- Measure 2 inches more than yi of knee measure on line H from dot 1 1 and place dot 15- Place letter G on dot 10 and draft line L to dot 15- Measure y 2 inch more than yi of the bottom measure on line F from dot 12 and place dot 16- Draft from dot 15 to dot 16- Measure y x inch out from dot 16 on line F and place dot 17- Place letter S on dot 17 and draft to meet line L %/4 inches above dot 16- TO TAKE MEASURE FOR TROUSERS. Waist I . — Around the waist easy, not tight. Hips 2. — Around the fullest part of hips rather snug. Knee J. — Around the knee the width desired. Bottom 4. — Around below the ankle the width desired. Outside Leg Measure 5. — From waist line the length desired. Inside Leg Measure 6. — From crotch the length desirea. Leg Measure f. — From knee to bottom. MEASURE FOR TROUSERS. Waist 30 Hips - 3S Knee 18 Bottom 17 Outside Leg 41 Inside Leg 31 Knee to Bottom 1 8 SHIRT— FRONT. Use the fold of goods for line A- Draft line B ! j inch from the end of goods. Measure y? mcn more than y% of the neck measure on line A from line B> and place dot 2- Measure yi inch more than V% of the neck measure on line B from line A? and place dot 3- Place letter D on dot 2 an d draft line C to dot 3- Measure I y inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line B, and place dot 4- Draft line H straight out, beginning 9 inches from dot 4- Measure J 3 of the chest measure on line H fr° m dot 4» and place dot 5- Measure 1 ; inches down line A from line B. and place dot 6- Draft line D 3 % inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7- Place the short arm of square on line B. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E to line B- Place letter L on line D 1 yi inches from dot 6 and draft line F to meet line E 6 inches from dot 7- Place letter A on line B l{ ' ncn fr° m dot 3. and draft line G to meet line E 2 yi inches from line B- Measure -,i of the length of shirt on iine A from line B> and place dot 8- Measure the length of shirt (usually from 34 to 36 inches) on line A fr° m line B. and place dot 9- Measure the length of shoulder on line B from the junction of lines B and Q, and place dot 10- Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Place letter M on the junction of lines B and Q and draft line Q to dot H. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 1 1 and yi, inch straight in and place dot 12- Place letter D on dot 12 and draft line S to dot 5- Place letter N on dot 12 and continue line S to dot H. Measure y{> inch less than the distance between dots 4 and 5 straight oul from dot 6 and place dot 13- Measure I y^ inches more than the distance between dots 6 and 13 straigh out from dot 8 an d place dot 14- Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line T to dot 13- Place letter Z on dot 13 and continue line T to dot 14. Place the corner of square on line A ]A inch above dot 9> and Measure straight out 3^ inches less than the distance between dots 8 and 14 and place dot 15. Place letter X on dot 15 and draft to dot 14- Place letter H on dot 15 and draft to dot 9- " BACK. Use the fold or goods for line A- Draft line B ,'/2 inch from the end ot goods. Measure the length of shirt on line A from line B» and place dot 2- Measure twice the length of shoulder on line B from line A> and place dot 3- Measure yl inch straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4- Place letter \J on dot 4 and draft line C to meet line B 3 inches from the fold of goods. Measure I it inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line B, and place dot 5- Measure z]/^ inches less than ]A of the chest measure straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6- Measure 2 3 of the length of the shirt on line A from line B. and place dot 7- Measure 1 inch more than the distance between dots 5 and 6 straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8- Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and J/! inch in and place dot 9- Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 9- (Use the round edge). Place letter H on dot 9 and continue line E to dot 4- Place the corner of square on line A ' inch above dot 2 and measure straight out 3 inches less than the distance between dots 7 and 8 and place dot 10- Place letter T on dot 10, the edge of curve on dot 8> and draft line p from dot 10 to the J inch mark on the curve. Place letter H on the end of line F and draft to dot 6. Place letter F on dot 10 and draft to dot 2- V/lVvvCYves Iskvcfcx A:V\.*.d place dot 4- Measuie zy% inches straight down from dot 4 ar >d place dot 5- Place letter B on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3- Draft line D from dot 5 to dot 2- Allow 1/^ inch above line C f° r facing. (See dotted lines) . TO TAKE MEASURE FOR SHIRT. Chest. — Around the chest, under the coat, take a smooth measure, not t5ght. Neck. — Around the bare neck easy. Shoulder.- — Hold the tape line snug against the neck where the band joins the shirt, and measure to the point of shoulder. Length. — From the joint in neck the length desired. Sleeve — From the point of shoulder the length desired. Hand. — Around the hand loose.. MEASURE FOR SHIRT. • Chest 35 Neck 14 Shoulder 6 Length 35 Hand ;o Sleeve 1-cngth. .• . Jf. i ^ - ■ 1 B^cK £ It is very light, very rapid and very fascinating. One-third more work can be accom- plished by this system than can possibly be done on any of the old style machines. The STANDARD makes both the LOCK STITCH and the CHAIN STITCH. IT IS TWO MACHINES IN ONE Ten minutes trial convinces the most obstinate that the Rotary Shuttle is the Correct Principle, and the STANDARD the machine to buy. Our NEW DOMESTIC also makes both the LOCK STITCH and the CHAIN STITCH. Parts and Needles for all Machines. STANDARD SHUTTLE A NEW TUCK-FOLDER Especially designed for soft materials of all kinds that will not crease. Tucking from one-sixteenth to one-half inch and of any width of space desired. Adapted to all of the leading Sewing Machines. Price $1.50. CHAS. W. KATTELL, General Agent DOMESTIC SEWIflG PGHlflE CO. and the STANDARD SEWING PGJlIJlE GO. 3 tttest Fourteenth Street, Hew York TELEPHONE 2534-18TB ST. Write for Catalogue.