A GUIDE ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY BY William O. Stevens Professor of English, U. S. Naval Academy Carroll S. Alden Instructor in English, U. S. Naval Academy ANNAPOLIS, MD 1910 Hr ^ Fold-out aceholder )eing digitized, and will be inserted at future date. Copyright, 1910, by WILLIAM O. STEVENS Baltimore, Md., U. S A. (0:CI.A265322 INDEX Academic Group, 50 Acton, Richard. 9 Adams (John) and Charles Carroll, 11 Administration Building. 24 Albemarle, 56, 59 Annapolis, in early days, 3 ; clubs, 3 ; State buildings. 4-8 ; visited by Washington, 5, 11 ; treaty with Great Britain ratified, 5 ; Annapolis Con- vention of 1786, 8 ; first tract surveyed, 9 ; colonial homes, 9-19; resistance to Stamp Act, 11; Naval Academy es- tablished, 20 Armory. 30-34 Assembly Rooms. 10 Athletic Field, 55 Ball Room, 10 Bancroft, George, 20 Bancroft Hall, 35-39 Brice, Col. James, 12 ; house, 12 Buchanan, Commander Frank- lin, 52 Caldwell, Lieut.. 54 Carriages, 2 Carroll of Carrollton. 4. 11, 19 Carvel Hall. 13 Chapel, 26-29 Chase, Jeremiah Townley. 15 ; Samuel, 4, 15 Chase Home, 15 Chinese Guns, 31 Churchill, Winston, 10, 14 Clemson, Midn., 49 Colonial Houses, in the i8th century, 3 ; Acton, 9 ; Rey- nold's Tavern, 9; Scott House, 10; Ridout House, 10; Charles Carroll House, 11; Aunt Lucy Smith's Bake Shop, 12 ; Brice House, 12 ; Paca House (Carvel Hall), 13 ; Jennings House, 15 ; Dorsey House, 15 ; Harwood House, 15 ; Chase Home, 15 ; Ogle House, 16 ; McDowell Hall, 17; Randall House, 18: Peggy Stewart House, 18 Confiance, 57 Constitution, 44, 45, 57 Cooper, Capt. P. H., 21 Cortez Gun, 32 Court of Appeals Building, 8 Gushing, Commander W. B.. 59 Cyane, ^y Decatur, Lieut. James, 54 ; Commodore Stephen, t^t,, 42. 43. 54, 56 De Kalb, Baron. 7 De Long, Lieut. -Commander, Don Antonio d'Ulloa, 41 Dorsev, Major Edward, 15 : Mrs'. Henrietta, 8; Midn. John S, 54 Drills, 24 Dupont, Rear-Admiral, 2)7 Emergency Hospital, 9 Executive Chamber, 7 Filipino Guns, 32 Flagg, Ernest, 21 Flags of Maryland, 6 Flusser, Lieut. -Commander Chas. W., 60 Garthorne, Francis, 8 Governor's Mansion, 8 Guns, Chinese, 31: Civil War, 56 ; Cortez, 32 ; Filipino, 32 ; International, 2i'2' ', Mexican War, 25, 26, 36, 50, 51; Ore- gon, 56; Originario, 30; Spanish-American War, 25, 29; War of 1812, 56 Hammond, Gen. John, 8 ; Philip, 9; William, 15 Hartford, 47 IV INDEX Harwood House, 15 Herndon, Commander W. L., 43, 49; Monument, 49 Flotcls, 2 Huron, 60 Hynson, Midn., 49 International Gun, 32 Israel, Midn., 54 Japanese Bell, 34 Jeannette Monument, 58 Jennings, Juliana, 12; Thomas, 12, 15 Johnson, Reverdy, 18 Jones, Capt. Paul, 29, y^ King William's School, 16 Lafayette, 6, 18 Library, 50, 52, 53 Liberty Tree, 18 Lloyd, Governor, 15 Lockwood, Lieut., 59 Love Lane, 48 McDowell Hall, 17 Macedonian, 2>2>' 43. 56 Maria Teresa, 29 Market Space, 12 Mason, T. B. M., 29 Memorial Hall, 38 Mexican War Monument, 49 Naval Academy, history, 20 ; present organization, 22 Naval Cemetery, 58 Naval Hospital, 61 Nicholson, Governor, 15, 16 Officers' Mess, 24 Ogle, Governor, 10, 16 Olympia, 48 Originario, 30 Paca, William, 4, 13 Peale, Chas. W., 6 Peggy Stewart, 6, 19 Peggy Stewart House, 18 Pillsbury, Midn., 49 Porter, Commodore David, 2)1 ; Admiral David D., 21, 28, 52 Post Office, 8 Powhatan, 42 Preble, Commodore, 37 Preston, Lieut., 59 Races, Colonial. 10 Railway Stations, 2 Randall House, 18 Reina Mercedes, 30, 31, 32 Reynold's Tavern, 9 Richard Carvel, 10, 14 Ridout, John, 10 Rochambeau, 17 Saginaw, 40 St. Anne's Church, 8 St. John's College, 16 Sampson, Rear-Admiral, 29, 53 Santee, 46 Schley, Rear-Admiral, 9 Scott House, 10 Seamanship Building, 39-46 Senate Chamber, 5 Severn, Fort, 20, 22, 38 Sharpe, Governor, 10, 16 Sliubrick, Midn., 50 Smith's (Aunt Lucy) Bake Shop, 12 Somers, Lieut., 54 State House, 4-7 State Library, S State Treasury Building, 7 Steam Engineering Building, 54 Stewart, Anthony, 19 ; Capt. Charles, 57 Stone, Thomas, 4 Superintendent's Quarters, 29 Taney, Roger B., 7 Tecumseh, 44 Thompson, Col. R. M., 21, 26, V. 52 Tilghman, Col., 6 Tripoli Monument, 53, 54 Ville de Paris, 43 Vizcaya, 25, 32 Wadsworth, Midn., 54 Wainwright, Rear-Admiral, 53 Washington, 5, 6, 8, 11 William HI, 8, 16 Worden, Commodore J. L., 52 PRELIMINARY NOTE While this Httle book will probably be valued most bv those who have opportunity to make a leisurely study of the town and the Academy, it has also been designed for the many visitors who, with only a day at their disposal, wish to obtain a rapid and compre- hensive view of the whole. For the latter a definite plan is an essential. Accordingly, the following dis- tril:)ution of time in seeing the town is recommended : Minutes State buildings 45 St. Anne's Church lo Walking to Acton, thence to the Carroll house. thence via Market to Carvel Hall 45 Carvel Hall 15 Chase Home 20 St. John's College grounds, Peggy Stewart house. . 15 The visitor will thus spend two hours and a half in the city, and should allow quite as much time for the Academy. The grounds of the Academy are open to the public practically at all times. On Sundays and holidays, however, most of the buildings are closed. Hours when they can be seen are mentioned in the description of the individual buildings ; in general, from 8 to 12 and i to 5. Special tastes and interests will govern many in what they give most attention to, and if there is a drill in progress on the Athletic Field, no one should pass it by. The following distribution of time, including what is consumed in walking from 2 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY building to building, is suggested for the visitor seek- ing a general view of the Academy : Minutes Chapel 10 Armory 15 Bancroft Hall 20 Seamanship Building 30 U. S. S. Hartford 15 Academic Group 20 Steam Engineering Building 25 Athletic Field 15 RAILWAY STATIONS, HOTELS, AND CARRIAGES Railways, (i) Annapolis Short Line: electric cars direct to Camden Station, B. & O. R. R., Baltimore (45 min.) ; sta- tion (C) — the letter indicates position on the diagram — at the foot of Bladen Street. (2) Washington, Baltimore, and An- napolis Raihvay: electric cars direct to Terminal Station, Park Avenue and Liberty Street, Baltimore (60 min.) ; pas- sengers for Washington commonly have to change at Academy Junction; at times, however, through cars are run (from An- napolis to New York Avenue and 15th Street, N. W., Wash- ington, I hr. 30 min.). The station (E) is on West Street, but cars can be boarded at the rear of Carvel Hall, or at any corner on King George Street or College Avenue. Hotels. Carvel Hall (R) on Prince George Street. Hotel Maryland (G), Main and Duke of Gloucester Streets. Carriages. Hacks are frequently to be found waiting at the stations ; they can always be secured by telephoning to the livery stable of R. G. Chaney, 159 West Street, or of T. S. Dove, 89 West Street. Fare until 8 p. m. to any point in the town or Academy, $.25; by the hour, $2 for the first, $1 for each succeeding hour. Automobiles are also to be hired at Chaney's Livery; $3 for the first hour, $2 for each succeeding hour. ANNAPOLIS IN THE i8tH CENTURY ANNAPOLIS In 1694, nearly a half century after the first settle- ment in the vicinity, Annapolis was made the capital of Maryland. The population was small, but the place quickly assumed great importance, since it was for some years the only town in ^Maryland. Nearly all the people of the colony lived on large plantations, but the wealthy owners would resort to the town for the dances and assemblies ; some also built substantial brick houses here, and indulged in extravagant hospi- tality. " One who knew it well [about 1750I said that there was not a town in England of the same size that could boast of so many fashionable and handsome women. The phantom pleas- ure was pursued with avidity; the races lasted four days, there were numerous dancing assemblies, the theatre was encouraged more than anywhere else in America, and there were sixteen clubs. . . . One was called the Hominy Club, and another the Drumstick. The Tuesday Club had among its members promi- nent men from other colonies, and all these clubs were devoted to stimulating the social life." Fisher, Men, Women, and Manners in Colonial Times. By 1770 Baltimore, though much younger, had far out- stripped Annapolis in size. As Baron Von Closen, the aide- de-camp of Rochambeau, writes on his visit in 1782, " For some years all the commerce has gone to Baltimore ; however, the richest men of the State have preferred Annapolis, which brings there a charming society." Another French writer who also saw Annapolis during the Revolution observes, ** In that inconsiderable town, ... of the few buildings it contains, at least three-fourths may be styled elegant and grand. Female luxury here exceeds what is known in the provinces of France. 4 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY A French hair dresser is a man of importance amongst them ; and it is said a certain dame here hires one of that craft at one thousand crowns a year." During the quarter century preceding the Revoki- tion, Annapolis reached the height of her glory, and held a place among the foremost cities of the Colonies. She has long since lost this prominence, but never her dignity. In her quiet mellow atmosphere, the cit)' might even be compared with the venerable cathedral towns of southern England. The past glory of Annapolis is her present glory, and the State House and colonial homes are what, aside from the Naval Academy, will prove of most attraction to sightseers. The State House, because of its nearness to both railroads, makes a convenient starting-point — visitors entering town by the Wash- ington, Baltimore, and Annapolis Railway should leave the car at Chancery Lane, near the Hotel Maryland, one block from the State buildings. The State House was built in 1772-4, but the impos- ing- dome was not added until after the Revolution. It fronts the southeast, and the best view is to be had from Francis Street. The large addition to the north- west, containing the present Senate and House of Delegates, is recent (1902-1905). Beginning with the old part of the State House, the visitor will notice in the hallway the portraits of the signers of the Decla- ration of Independence, Samuel Chase and Thomas Stone to the left, Charles Carroll and William Paca to the right — all but the second were residents of An- napolis. The interior of the dome, tastefully orna- mented in the best colonial style, deserves careful attention. THE STATE HOUSE 5 " The architect of this building was a Mr. Joseph Clarke. Mr. Thomas Dance, who executed the stucco and fresco work on the interior of the dome, fell from the scaffold just as he had finished the center piece, and was killed." Ridgely, Annals of Annapolis. The first door to the right, as one enters from the front, opens into the old Senate Chamber. Here, at STATE HOUSE the conclusion of the Revolution, the Continental Con- gress was holding its sessions ; thus in this room the treaty with Great Britain was ratified in 1784, and here on the 23d of December preceding, Washington resigned his commission. The coming of Washington to the city was the occasion of a great celebration. Cannon were tired as he entered the town. A public dinner was given l)y Congress in the ball room, where 6 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY 20O people of distinction were present. At night the State House was illuminated, and an elaborate ball was given by the General Assembly. The scene of Washington's resigning his commission was of great solemnity. Mr. Green, editor of the Maryland Ga:::ctfc, wrote, "Here we must let fall the scene — few tragedies ever drew more tears from so many beautiful eyes, as were affected by the moving manner in which his Excellency took his final leave of Congress." Above the mantel is the painting, by Charles Wilson Peale, a contemporary, of "Washington at Yorktown " (Washington is attended by his aides, General Lafay- ette and Colonel Tilghman of Maryland). This his- toric chamber, unfortunately remodeled in 1876, was restored in 1905 to its original colonial character. In the antechamber is a painting by Mayer, showing "The Burning of the Peggy Stewart" (see p. 19). Across the hall from the Senate is the old House of Delegates, in which is a permanent mineralogical ex- hibition of Maryland. In the anteroom are gathered old battle-flags carried by Maryland regiments chiefly during the Civil War. In the case opposite the door, is the flag carried by the 3d Maryland Infantry in 1777, and flown later in the battle of Cowpens (1781) and of North Point (1814). The new House of Delegates (on the same side of the hall as the old) should next be visited, and across the hall the new Senate Chamber. The legislature of Maryland meets for 90 days, January to March, every second year, 1910, 1912, etc. Mounting the stairway near the Senate, one sees at the head of the first flight a large painting by Edwin White (1859) of W^ashington resigning his commis- sion (key to the various historic personages in the picture at the head of the stairs). On the second floor, STATE TREASURY BUILDING 7 above the old Senate, is the Executive Chamber, where are portraits of Proprietors and Governors of Mary- land. The statue in front of the State House represents Roger B. Taney, Chief Justice of the United States Supreme Court from 1836 to 1864. He was born only a few miles south of the Anne Arundel line, and is the most distinguished of Marylanders who have ever entered the profession of law. As Hon. S. T. Wallis remarked on unveiling the statue, " The artist has chosen to present us his illustrious subject in his robes of office as we saw him when he sat in judgment ; the weight of years that bent the venerable form has not been lightened, and the lines of care, and suffering, and thought, are as life traced them." The bronze statue on the western terrace is that of Baron de Kalb, who proved himself a noble friend to the patriot cause, and who lost his life in the battle of Camden, S. C, August 16, 1780. The sculptor has represented him in the supreme moment when he was rallymg the troops of Maryland and Delaware, and leading them on against superior numbers — the heroic act in which he met death. The State Treasury Building (A), a hundred feet to the east of the Capitol, though extremely modest in appearance, is worth a brief visit. This was built in 1695, the year after it was decided to move the capital of the Colony, which had been at St. Mary's, to Anne Arundel Town, or Annapolis. It is now occupied by the State Department of Education. Observe the un- usually thick walls, also one of the original doors in- side, with its huge wrought-iron hinges and large wooden lock bound with iron. In this building, it is 8 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY said, sat the Annapolis Convention of 1786, which led directly to the Convention that met in Philadelphia the following year and drafted the Constitution. The Court of Appeals Building (B), which is to the north of the State House and across the street, contains on the second floor the State Librarv and the court room ; the latter is superbly done in mahogany and is greatly admired. The grand stairway has beauty and dignity. Leaving the Court of Appeals Building by the door towards the State House, and turning to the right, the visitor crosses the street, and then passes a large red brick building with a mansard roof, the Governor's Mansion (D). Beyond the Governor's Mansion and to the right on Colleg-e Avenue, is the Post Office, of colonial type but modern. Directly ahead is St. Anne's Church. St. Anne's Church, the third church of this name, was built in 1859. ^^ its yard are several old tomb- stones, the earliest of which are those to Henry Ridgely and to Nicholas Gassaway, 1699, the year when the first church on this site was completed. Inside the church, near the middle of the south aisle, is a beautiful stained glass window by Tiffany, which has for its subject Saint Anne teaching the Blessed Virgin. On request, the sexton will show the ancient silver com- munion service and alms basin, made by Francis Garthorne, a well-known court silversmith of London, and presented by King William III in 1695 ; also a folio Bible, 'presented in 1707 by General John Hammond, commander of Her Majesty's forces ; and a finely bound Bible and Prayer Book, given by Mrs. Henrietta Dorsey in 1762. The sexton should be given a small fee. COLONIAL HOUSES 9 On leaving- St. Anne's by the main entrance, one may notice, almost opposite, on the corner of Frank- lin Street, a house connected with the Farmers' Na- tional Bank, the cashier's residence. This, in colonial days, was Reynold's Tavern, and it was built probably about 1735. Walking up Franklin Street, one passes on the right Admiral Schley's former residence (No. 44), which descended to ?\trs. Schley from her father, ACTON Mr. Franklin. The large building to the left is the Emergency Hospital. Continuing on Franklin Street, one soon sees, sloping to Spa Creek, the extensive grounds of Acton. This is the only one of the colo- nial residences in Annapolis that has retained its proper setting. The tract was the first surveyed within the limits of Annapolis, and was granted to Richard Acton in 1651. The present house was built by Philip Hammond, a wealthy Annapolis merchant, who died in 1760. lO ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY Returning to Church Circle, and going southeast on Duke of Gloucester Street, the visitor passes on the left the Assembly Rooms (H), a brick building with a modern front, part of which is occupied by the fire company. This was the ancient Ball Room, built in 1764 from the proceeds of a lottery drawn for that especial purpose ; Washington danced here while at- tending the horse races in Annapolis. The races were the cause of great gatherings from Mary- land and the adjoining colonies. "Considerable sums were bet on these occasions. Subscription purses of a hundred guineas were for a long time the highest amount run for, but subse- quently were greatly increased. The day of the races usually closed with balls, or theatrical amusements." Quoted by Ridgely. Just before reaching the parochial school, one block farther on the opposite side of the street, one may catch a good view of the Scott House on Shipwright Street (L), a stately colonial mansion, now owned by the Sisters of Notre Dame. This house has a special interest as a possible original of the Carvel Hall that Winston Churchill has described in his novel Richard Carvel. In location it would seem almost exactly to correspond, but Churchill denies having any particular house in mind and admits that he drew freely on his imagination. (For the original of the Dorothy Man- ners house, see p. 14). Nearly opposite the parochial school is the Ridout residence, No. 60 (I), built by John Ridout, secre- tary to Horatio Sharpe, Proprietary Governor of Maryland, 1753- 1769. John Ridout married Mary, the daughter of Governor Samuel Ogle, and in his later years built for his three children, Horatio and CHARLES CARROLL OF CARROLLTON II Samuel Ridoiit and Mrs. Gibson, the three brick houses just beyond his own, Nos. 114. 112, no (J). One comes next to St. Mary's Church (1858), and to the south of the church, and seen best from Spa Creek brido^e, the house of Charles Carroll of Car- rollton, built, it is thought, about 1740. The beautiful old garden is worth noticing, as is also the view up Spa Creek. Charles Carroll was born in Annapolis in 1737. His father inherited a vast estate of 60,000 acres, which was the begin- ning of the son's large fortune. Thus Charles Carroll was hazarding much when he took the lead in resisting British tyranny expressed in the Stamp Act and other obnoxious laws. Because of his spirit, education, and wealth, he was sent to the First Continental Congress ; here John Adams met him, as he records in his diary, September 14, 1774 : " Mr. Chase intro- duced to us a Mr. Carroll of Annapolis, a very sensible gentle- man, a Roman Catholic, and of the first fortune in America. His income is ten thousand pounds sterling a 3'ear now, will be fourteen in two or three years, they say; besides, his father has a vast estate which will be his after his father." Two years later, as he signed the Declaration of Independence, a bystander sententiously remarked, " There go a few cool millions." Previous to the Revolution, Washington had made his ac- quaintance, for we find the entry in Washington's diary for September 27, 1771 : " Dined at Mr. Carroll's and went to the ball." Though Charles Carroll was in 1776 the wealthiest man in the thirteen States, his house seems to have been of great simplicity, and shows little of the elaborate decorations that characterize the other colonial mansions. In an upper story is a room that was used as a chapel, and the family had a resident priest. From 1689 to the American Revolution, re- ligious toleration in Maryland was unknown. And though Catholics were the people who originally founded the colony, they were disfranchised and forbidden to erect a church or other public place of worship. In 1852, Charles Carroll's 12 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY granddaughters donated the house and grounds to the Re- demptorist Order of the Roman Catholic Qiurch, and it is now used as a home for the young priests taking further study after the completion of their theological course. Returning on Duke of Gloucester Street to Green Street, and then turning to the right, one soon comes to Market Space. Here, in 1728, near the dock, a market was built, and is still held by the corporate authority of the city. Regularly on Saturdays it is a scene of great animation. The fish market consists of booths to the right, over the water. The narrow streets to the northwest suggest the wisdom of an ancient by-law of the city, made early in the i8th century : " Any Person residing within this City or the Precincts thereof who shall by galloping or otherwise force any Horse, Mare, or Gelding through any of the Streets, Lanes, or Alleys of this City, or carry any Fire uncovered through the same, shall if a Freeman forfeit and pay for every such Offence the Sum of Ten Shillings Sterling to the Use of this Corporation." Following the car track one short block beyond Market Space, and then turning to the left on Prince George Street, one passes on the right Aunt Lucy Smith's Bake Shop, No. 160 (O). Here a famous old colored cook lived and made cakes and confections for the dames of the first families. Just beyond, at the corner of Prince George and East Streets, is the Brice House (P), with vines picturesquely covering the wing to the west. The window above the main door has been much admired. The house is thought to have been built in 1740 or earlier, and according to tradition was a princely wed- ding present given by Thomas Jennings, a lawyer, to his daughter Juliana, when she was married to Colonel James Brice. CARVEL HALL 1 3 The name of James Brice is frequently mentioned in the city records of 1776 as the head of a committee to fortify the cit3% for which purpose the convention of Maryland appro- priated £5,900. He was ma3'or of Annapolis, 1782-3 and 1788-9. Mrs. Brice won her own place in the hall of fame by a certain kind of cake she entertained her guests with, called " Naples biscuit," the receipt for which has come down to this genera- tion. Many of the Marshland families were connected with famous old English families. The grandfather of ^Irs. Juliana PRICE HOUSE Jennings Brice was cousin of Sarah Jennings, the Duchess of Marlborough and the favorite of Queen Anne. A half block farther on Prince George Street is Carvel Hall (R), built in 1763 by William Paca, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, and Governor of Maryland, 1782-5. This was a few years ago made into a hotel, but fortunately, although a large addition was built on the rear, .the beautiful colonial character of the front was preserved. The mantel and the old decorations in the small parlor im- 14 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY mediately to the left of the entrance are deserving of notice. This house, some years Ijefore it was made into a hotel, had as a guest Winston Churchill (who was midshipman in the Naval Academy from 1890 to 1894. but resigned from the service on graduation). j\Ir. Churchill, in his romance Richard Carvel, gives a vivid picture of colonial Annapolis ; and the venerable house in which he boarded before writing the book, P' CARVEL HALL he took as the original of Dorothy Manners' home. In the rear of the Paca house, as the older residents of Annapolis still can recall, there was a large and beautiful garden, en- closed by a wall, which on the northeast followed King George Street. Several natural springs rising here formed a stream of some size, which was crossed by a rustic bridge. Three broad terraces, a small meadow, and large weeping willows added to the charm. The garden is said to have 1)een a para- dise of flowers. The small house (S) diagonally opposite Carvel Hall, and somewhat back from the street (No. 195), COLONIAL HOUSES 15 was the home of Thomas Jennings, who built the Brice House. A few doors beyond. No. 211 (T), is one of the very oldest houses in Anuapolis, though the addition to the left is comparatively recent. When Annapolis became the capital of ^Maryland, 1694-5, this house, then owned by Major Edward Dorsey, served as the first governor's mansion, and was occu- pied by Governor Francis Nicholson. Here the pro- vincial legislature met in 1695, and again in 1704 after the State House had been struck by lightning and partly burned. Turning to the right on Maryland Avenue, one comes at the corner of King George Street to two superb colonial mansions. The Harwood House (U), to the right, has a doorway of exceptional beauty. The house was built about 1770 by William Hammond, a lawyer, but was never occupied by him. When he had gone to Philadelphia to purchase furniture for his home, she who was to have been the home-maker broke the engagement. ]Mr. Hammond seems never to have recovered from his disappointment, for he remained a bachelor. A few years later the house and grounds, which originally extended from King George to Prince George Street, were purchased by Jeremiah Townley Chase. Chief Justice of Maryland; it is still in possession of this family, and is now owned by Miss Hester Harwood, a great granddaughter of Judge Chase. The stately Chase Home (V), built a few years previous to the Harwood House, on the opposite side of the street, is the only colonial house in Annapolis three stories high. It is said to have been begun by Samuel Chase, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, and to have been finished by Gov- ernor Lloyd. This, since 1897, has been used as a home for " Aged, infirm, and destitute women." By the courtesy of those who have charge of the home, l6 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY its beautiful interior, which has perhaps not a rival in all the State, may be seen on application. Visitors should not fail to leave a small contribution in the box to be found in the hall. To the left of the entrance is the drawing room, which, with its old-time mirrors, solid silver , latches, and marble mantel from Italy, vividly suggests the splendor of past days. The dining room, on the opposite side, has some elaborate wood carvings and another interesting mantel. The finest feature of the house, however, is the spacious hall which goes from front to back, a distance of over forty-five feet, and which is over fourteen feet wide. " The stairway, opposite the front door, begins with a single flight of steps, and, rising to nearly half the height of the stairway, ends with a platform from which a flight of steps on each side diverges, ascending to a gallery which is supported by Ionic pillars. Above the first platform of the staircase rises a triple window, the central of which is arched, and the whole is of magnificent proportions, reminding one of some ancient church." Quoted by Riley in The Ancient City. The sword, punch bowl, and clock of Governor Sharpe (Proprietary Governor of Maryland, 1753- 1769), and several pieces of fine old china are among the smaller objects to be seen. Walking one block northwest on King George Street, one comes at the corner of College Avenue to the Ogle House, built in 1742 (Samuel Ogle was Proprietary Governor of Maryland, 1732-3, 1735-42, and 1747-52). Fronting on the opposite side of the street is St. John's College, which, under the name of King William's School was founded in 1694 " for the propagation of the Gospel, and the education of youth in good letters and manners." In 1697 Governor Nicholson proposed to the House of Bur- gesses "that His Majesty, William III, be addressed that some part of the revenue given towards furnishing arms and ammu- nition for the use of the Province, be laid out for the purchase ST. JOHN S COLLEGE 17 of books to be added to the books which had been presented by the King to form a Hbrary in the port of Annapolis." On the burning of the State House, many of these books were re- moved to King WiHiam's School, and these rare and curious volumes are still treasured in the College Library. In 1784 King \Mlliam's School was merged into St. John's College (opened for students in 1789). Its oldest building, McDowell Hall — bearing the name of LIBERTY TREE, ST. JOHN S COLLEGE the first president — is to be recognized by its central position and cupola. This had its origin in 1745, when it was begun as the governor's mansion; but because of a sharp disagreement between the Governor and the legislature, work stopped just before completion, and was not resumed until the building was given over to the College. The interior was destroyed by fire in 1909, but has been restored. To the rear of the College buildings the French army under Rochambeau camped when on its way to Yorktown to support l8 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY Washington. To perpetuate the meniory of this occupation, the foundation of a monument has been laid near College Creek. The site having- the richest historical associations on St. John's College grounds is that of the venerable Liberty Tree (X), mai-ked by a small bronze tablet. There is a tradition that in 1652, under this poplar, was made the treaty with the Susquehannocks. During the stormy times previous to the Revolution, popular assemblies gathered here to decide how those who had not joined the patriots should be dealt with, hi 1824 Lafayette was entertained beneath its ample shade. In 1840, when the life of the tree was thought to be nearly extinct, some boys who were amusing themselves with gunpowder, exploded two pounds in its great hollow. The tree at once caught fire. " The citizens of Annapolis repaired in force for its rescue, the firemen bringing out the city engine and deluging the tree with water. The boys' es- capade was, no doubt, greatly denounced; but the juveniles had done better than their denunciators thought or the juveniles intended. The tree had fallen into a state of decay that threatened its life. The next year it put forth its branches with its youth renewed. The explosion had destroyed the worms that were gnawing away its vitals." Riley, Tlic Ancient City. Opposite the southwestern corner of the College grounds is the Randall House (Y), built in 1730, the birthplace of Reverdy Johnson. The old mansion stands in an enclosure, but if the trees are not in foli- age it can be seen to advantage from State Circle. The one house remaining to which attention will be called may be left until the visitor is about to enter the Naval Academy, for it is near the main g-ate, on Maryland Avenue. The Peggy Stewart House, No. 207 Hanover Street (W), built in 1763 — remodeled in recent years — w^as the residence of Mr. Anthony THE PEGGY STEWART 1 9 Stewart, the owner of a brig named for his daughter, the Peggy Stezvart. This ship arrived from London on October 15, 1774, bringing in its cargo 17 packages, or 2320 pounds, of tea. Though Stewart had had nothing to do with its importation, he paid the tax so that he might land the rest of the cargo ; whereupon he was charged with having violated the principle of resistance agreed upon by the Colonies, and his act caused great offense. Excited meetings of the people followed, at which, in spite of Stewart's humble confession and offer to burn the tea, it was with difficulty that the calmer minds restrained the angry citizens from resorting to violence. Finally, at Charles Car- roll's suggestion, Stewart proposed to burn the brig in their presence, and volunteered himself to apply the torch. Running the vessel ashore on Windmill Point (near the present site of the Academy Seamanship Building) where his invalid wife, from an upper window in her home, could see the glorious spectacle, he set lire to the brig as he had promised. A great crowd of citizens standing on the shore approved of the deed, and thus openly expressed their defiance of the British Government. 20 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY THE NAVAL ACADEMY Historical Sketch Although the AliUtary Academy at West Point has been in operation since 1802, the Naval Academy was not founded till 1845. Previously, the midshipmen got only haphazard instruction on shipboard from " schoolmasters," or chaplains. Early in the forties, however, the need of a naval school on shore had become generally admitted, and George Bancroft, the historian, interested himself in bringing it about im- mediately upon liis appointment as Secretary of the Navy. When Annapolis was decided upon as the site for the Academy, Bancroft succeeded in getting a transfer of old Fort Severn, with its buildings and grounds, from the War to the Navy Department. There he opened the school on October 10, 1845, with Com- mander Franklin Buchanan as its first Superintendent. At first there were only two classes at the school, " Junior " and " Senior." The Junior class consisted of '' acting midshipmen " who had just been appomted from civil life. They were on probation, and were required to study at the Academy, theoretically for a year, practically until they were needed to fill vacan- cies on the ships. The Senior class was composed of the midshipmen who had finished their three years' cruise, and were studying in preparation for the final examination for promotion. In 185 1 a course of four consecutive years at the Academy was substituted, HISTORY OF THE ACADEMY 21 with an annual practice cruise in place of the omitted sea service. This arrangement has been followed ever since. At the outbreak of the Civil War, it was found advisable to move the school to Newport, where the work of instruction was carried on under great diffi- culties. Aleanwhile the Naval Academy yard was util- ized as an army camp. In September, 1865, the Academy was returned to Annapolis, and, under the able administration of Admiral David D. Porter (Su- perintendent, 1865-9), it took on new life, gaining by many important improvements in the curriculum and by extensive additions to the buildings and grounds. Between the time of his administration and that of Captain P. H. Cooper ( 1894- 1898) there was little change of importance. \Mth the latter began a move- ment toward the construction of new buildings for the school. In this project he w^as w^armly seconded by Colonel R. M. Thompson, of the class of '68, and Theodore Roosevelt, then Assistant Secretary of the Navy. In 1897 Mr. Roosevelt made a report to Con- gress urging that action be taken at once, and suc- ceeded in getting an appropriation with which the work was begun. The popularity won by the navy during the Spanish-American War gave the cause a great impetus. Large appropriations follow^ed readily, and in 1900 $8,000,000 was granted for the purpose of a complete reconstruction of the plant. This made the total sum appropriated for the Naval Academy buildings over ten million dollars. The plans of archi- tect Ernest Flagg of New York were accepted, and the first buildings completed, the Armory, Seamanship Building, and Bancroft Hall, were constructed, in the main, according to the original specifications. But, on 22 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY account of the increase in the cost of labor and mate- rials, it was afterwards found necessary either to ap- propriate more, or to economize on the specifications. Congress voted for the latter alternative, and substi- tuted brick and terra cotta for the granite in the exterior work, and plaster for limestone in the in- teriors. Accordingly, the rest of the buildings have suffered from this fit of economy. The work of re- construction, begun in 1899, is now complete. The original plot of ground transferred with Fort Severn to the Navy Department in 1845, comprised about nine and a half acres. To-day the Academy grounds cover an area of over 80 acres, exclusive of the neighboring government property beyond the creek to the northwest and on the opposite shore of the Severn. Present Organization The Naval Academy, originally under the Bureau of Ordnance, is now under the direction of the Bureau of Navigation. The Superintendent is the adminis- trative head of the school ; next in rank to him is the Commandant, who has immediate control of matters of discipline. The instruction is carried on by " De- partments," each under the direction of a naval of^cer acting as " Head of Department.'' These departments are Mathematics and Alechanics, Navigation, Seaman- ship, Physics and Chemistry, Marine Engineering and Naval Construction, Electricity, English, and Modern Languages. Teaching is done in most departments by naval officers detailed for the duty, and in a few de- partments by civilians. Under the present law, every Congressman and Senator ma}- appoint two " candidates " for the Naval GENERAL SUGGESTIONS 23 Academy, and the President twenty. These candi- dates must be between sixteen and twenty years of age, and must pass a mental and physical test to qualify for entrance. There are nearly a thousand appointments, but on account of the large number of men who fail to satisfy the requirements, either on the entrance examinations or during the four years' course, the actual number of midshipmen in the Acadeni}' is usually not more than 800. On gradua- tion, the midshipmen are sent to sea on vessels of the fleet, and two years later after an examination they are promoted to the commissioned rank of Ensign. The Buildings and Grounds The yard is open to visitors at all hours of the day. Excep- tions to this rule are during midshipmen's " fire drill," when all gates are closed. No automobiles are admitted without special permission. Dogs are not permitted unless held by a leash, no smoking is allowed, and all persons are required to keep on the walks. The best time to see the Naval Academy is during " June Week," its commencement time. This is the first w^eek in June. At that time recitations are over, graduation festivities are in full swing, and the Acad- emy wears its most attractive aspect. There are many exhibition drills, and a daily dress parade at six p. m. During June Week, however, the town is very crowded, and it is almost impossible to get accom- modation that has not been engaged months in ad- vance. At other seasons the visitor may see all that the Academy has to show, if he bears in mind the con- ditions. Sundays and national holidays, the favorite time for excursionists, are the worst days for sight- seeing in the Academy, because the buildings are 24 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY closed. As a general rule, on week-days, buildings are open from 8 to 12, i to 5. Drills begin at 4, and end at 5; Saturdays, 10.15 to 11.45. Saturday is a half holiday, and as a rule there are no drills Wednes- day and Thursday afternoons. Saturday games (football and baseball) are called at 2, occasional games on other days begin at 3.45 in the afternoon. The best place to begin a sight-seeing tour is at the " Main Gate," Maryland Avenue entrance (BB in OFFICERS MESS diagram). This is within a few steps of the corner reached by the cars of the W. B, & A., and is at the end of one of the main thoroughfares. At the left, as you enter, you notice a long, low building of white brick. This is the Officers' Mess, the quarters of the bachelor officers stationed at the Academy and of the Naval Academy Club. At the right is the Adminis- tration Building, which contains the offices of the Superintendent and his aids. The flagstaff directly in front follows the military practice by which " head- quarters " is indicated. The nautical character of the FRENCH AND SPANISH GUNS 2^ place is suggested by the imitation of a ship's mast with a ''top" at the junction of the upper and lower pieces of the staff. At the corner, on the avenue, is a gun, painted grey. This is a trophy from the Span- ish cruiser J^iacaya, destroyed at Santiago, July 3, 1898. (For the story of the l^izcaya see p. 32). Turning to the right and passing in front of the Administration Building, you will notice two bronze guns flanking the walk that leads to the door. These belong to a remarkable collection of Spanish and French bronze guns, of the 17th and i8th centuries, which came to the Naval Acadeni}- from California and from the Castle of San Juan dTHloa, \'era Cruz, as trophies of the Mexican War. They belong to the da}' when the making of a cannon was as much a work of art as of science. Both of these are trophies from California. The gun at the right is a 12-ponnder. Just forward of the trunnions is the date of casting, '' ano de 1686." Abaft the trunnions is the name, of the piece, " San Ca3'etano," after the quaint custom of the time which gave a gun a name. Fre- quently, as in this case, the Spanish guns bore the name of a saint. Around the muzzle, in raised letters, is " Cubas me fes '• (Cubas made me). On the breech is the coat of arms of Castile and Leon. The other cannon is an i8-pounder of the date of 1769, cast in Lima, Peru. It is the only gun of the collection which does not have a name of its own. The in- scription may be translated (around the muzzle), "During the reign of H. M. Carlos III," (next abaft) " His Lordship Amat y Junient, being Viceroy, Governor, and Captain Gen- eral '' — "Cast in Lima" — "In the year 1769" — "By Pablo Torres y Huerta." The lofty building just beyond, surmounted by its ornate yellow and white dome, is the Chapel. 26 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY The Chapel Open from 9 to 12, 2 to 4, daily, with the exception of Satur- day afternoon. Entrance is by the small door to the right. The balustrade surrounding the Chapel is decorated in front with four bronze cannon, two small ones at the corners are Spanish, the other two French. The one at the corner nearest the Administration Buildmg bears the name " Jesus." In ornamentation this is similar to its mate at the opposite corner, " San Al- baro." The former was cast in 1675, the latter in Lima, 1673. The two large guns flanking the en- trance are " Le Robuste " and " Le Fier," both of the date of 1755. In everything but the name these two French guns are alike. Their elaborate inscriptions and ornamentations are ahnost identical with those of " Le Grondeur " (described on p. 51), which lies in front of the Library Building, where it can be read- ily examined. Two bronze mortars in front of the small side doors were taken in Manila, the small one at the left bears a name near the muzzle, " El Insolente," and on the breech the place and date of casting, Barcelona, Sep- tember, 1769. The large one at the right bears in- scriptions showing that it was cast in Seville in March, 1784. Both have the crown and monogram of Spain. The handsome bronze doors of the Chapel deserve attention. They are the gift of Colonel Robert M. Thompson of New York, in memory of the class of 1868, of which he is a member. The doors were designed and executed by Miss Evelyn B. Longman, of New York, who won the competition on the first ballot from a field of thirty-three sculptors of both sexes. Each door is divided into three panels, the central one con- THE CHAPEL 2/ taining a group of allegorical figures. The group at the right represents " the youth of the country responding to Patriotism." The corresponding group at the left symbolizes " Science " in the old. man, and " Invention " in the boy holding up the model of a torpedo. In the background of both groups are repre- sented columns of midshipmen and sailors marching toward the sea. The two allegorical female figures in the transom represent " Peace [on leftl and Prosperity [on right! honoring the ashes of the dead.'' The altar bears the inscription, " Non sibi sed patriae" (Not for self, but for fatherland). Below this is the dedicatory inscription. Under the two upper panels are the names of naval heroes, Edward Preble, Stephen De- catur, Oliver Hazard Perry, on the left, and David Glasgow Farragut, David Dixon Porter, and William Thomas Sampson, on the right. The two bottom panels of the doors contain cherubs supporting wreaths containing the mottoes, " Sapientia ef Scientia" (Wisdom and knowledge) and "Deo ef Patriae" (For God and country). A rope ornament serves as a border for the paneling of the doors, and the nautical character of the work is carried out still further by the details of orna- ment, such as shells, dolphins, and tridents. The doors were unveiled June, 1909. The Chapel is built in the form of a Greek cross, surmounted by a lofty dome (210 feet to the top of the "lantern"). Near to, the dome seems somewhat out of proportion to its base, but seen from any dis- tance, it shows at once the architect's purpose, for the high central structure gives unity and character to a group of buildings which, though massive, are lack- ing in elevation. A novelty in its construction is that the entire framework is of reenforced concrete. The huge dome, estimated to weigh 3000 tons, was built on eight columns of concrete, six by two and a half feet in section, which carry the entire weight ; and the columns were then concealed between the light outer and inner walls afterwards erected. The cost of the 25 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY Chapel was $400,000. It was begun in 1904 and fin- ished in 1008. Seats in the gallery, and a few on the main floor, are for the general public. The brigade of midshipmen is drawn up for Sunday morning in- spection at 10.30, in good weather, in front of Ban- croft Hall, and at 10.40 marches over to the Chapel. Upon their arrival, the service begins. This is con- CHAPEL ducted by the Chaplain, with music by a large choir of midshipmen. At the conclusion of the service it is customary for visitors to keep seats until the midship- men have marched out. The three stained-glass windows in the Chapel are all the work of Tiffany. That above the altar, " Christ Walking on the Sea of Galilee," is a memorial to Admiral David Dixon Porter, presented by the class THE CHAPEL • 29 of 1869, the one that began and completed their aca- demic course while he was Superintendent. To the left is a window to Lieutenant-Commander Theodorus B. M. Alason, presented by his family. The central figure is Sir Galahad holding before him his sheathed sword, as if about to lay it down. Still farther to the left, above the gallery, is the memorial to Rear- Admiral William T. Sampson, given by the officers of the navy. The artist has taken for his underlying idea a theme often handled by the Greeks of classical times, but he has pleasingly varied it. Victory stands at the prow of the boat, but in- stead of sounding the trumpet and leading on to suc- cessful battle, like the famous Victory of Samothrace, she is returning with the dove, emblematic of peace. The organ is an electro-pneumatic instrument with three manuals and more than 2000 pipes. Twelve feet below^ the main floor is a crypt, at present unfinished and empty. This eventually is to be the resting-place for the remains of John Paul Jones (now in Bancroft Hall) and of other distin- guished naval heroes. The Sunday morning service at the Chapel is for most visitors of unusual interest. The entire brigade of midshipmen attend, and present an imposing spec- tacle. On leaving the Chapel, keep to the right and follow the walks to the Armory (see diagram). The house next the Chapel is the Superintendent's Quarters. The rapid fire gun at the corner is a trophy from the Maria Teresa, Cervera's flagship at Santiago. In the row of houses beyond are the homes of the " Heads of Departments." On either side of the walk leading to the Armory, and directly in front of the entrance, 3 30 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY are several guns, torpedoes, etc. All except the first two (small Spanish guns taken in California in 1847) are trophies of the Spanish-American War and the Philippine Insurrection. Most of these are sufficiently labeled to tell their story. The torpedoes were taken from the wreck of the Rcina Mercedes in the harbor of Santiago. The mine, the last trophy to the right, was picked up by the propeller of the U. S. S. Marhlehead, Guantanamo, Cuba. The largest of the guns is interesting as being an old-fashioned bronze muzzle-loader, cast in 1803, which was rifled and opened at the breech to adapt it to the use of modern ammunition in 1877. This was mounted on a wooden carriage by the Filipinos. It was captured from the Spaniards when Cavite fell, May i, 1898, and was then used against the Spaniards. Afterwards it was turned over to the insurgents under Aguinaldo, and used by him against the walls of Manila. After the rupture with the insurgents, the latter turned the gun upon the Americans and fired two shots into Cavite in June, 1899. It was after- wards captured by the Americans. Around the muzzle is the name of the gun, " Originario." The Armory Open from 8 to 12, i to 5, daily, except Sundays and national holidays. The building is closed to visitors, however, while recitations are being held, in which case a placard is suspended on the door to that effect. This was the first building of the new Academy to be completed, and is the only one that was built ac- cording to the original specifications. Externally it is the exact mate of the Seamanship Building, on the opposite wing of Bancroft Hall ; both are 425 feet long and no feet wide. The Armory is under the THE ARMORY 3 1 supervision of the Head of the Department of Ord- nance. To right and left of the door as yoii enter are rows of trophies, which are for the most part labeled. The two small brass guns (which are not labeled) lying on the floor on each side of the door, are especially interesting. They are Chinese guns of the 17th cen- tury, cast from moulds made at the Emperor's behest by a Jesuit missionary. They were taken by a naval force under Rear-Admiral John Rodgers, in May, 1 87 1, when the Corean forts on the Han River were captured. Another, of similar pattern, rests on a mount in the left-hand corner, and was taken at the same time. Notice that these early guns are breech- loading. (It was not till after the Civil War that the breech-loading principle was revived.) The powder was poured into the detachable "flat-iron" (with the hook), set in the open breech, the iron was then turned so as to expose the priming-hole, and held in place by a wooden wedge. A match at the priming-hole discharged the gun. Passing the ships' bells to the right (from the Reina Mercedes and the Kearsarge) you will notice a small black cannon with a brass plate on its breech. This is the " International Gun," an old 6-pounder muzzle- loading gun used against the Boxers, in Pekin, in 1900. It was found in Pekin by converted Chinese, and cleaned, scraped, and mounted on a spare set of wheels belonging to an Italian gun, by Gunner's Mate Mitchell, of the U. S. S. Newark. Because it was of either British or French manufacture, fired Russian ammunition, mounted on an Italian carriage, and was put together and fired by an American, it was chris- 32 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY tened the '' International Gun." After various vicis- situdes with the gun, Mitchell had his arm broken by a Mauser bullet, just as Pekin was relieved. Beyond the gatling is the oldest piece of ordnance in the Academy, a Spanish gun cast about 1490, which was probably used by Cortez in his conquest of Mexico. For this reason it is called the " Cortez Gun." It was brought here with other trophies of the Mexican War. Notice that this, too, is a breech- loader. Crossing now to the opposite side, you will see an interesting collection of primitive Filipino guns, pre- sented to Admiral Dewey by the Archbishop of Ma- nila. Three of these are of iron covered with wood (from one the wood has been broken away), a fourth is of wood covered with carabao hide. Among these is one labeled with its native name " Lantanka," a wooden gun wound with coarse hemp strands, also of Filipino workmanship. In the corner at the left is a piece of the armor plate of the Rcina Mercedes, pierced by an American pro- jectile. This ship, which had been severely injured by the fire of the American squadron, was sunk by the Spaniards in the harbor of Santiago in an unsuccessful attempt to block the entrance. After the battle of Santiago she was raised, re- paired and taken to the United States. She is now used as a receiving ship at the Training Station, Newport, R. I. Directly at the head of the steps leading to the gal- lery is the stern plate of the Spanish cruiser Vizcaya, taken from her after the victory of Santiago. The Vizcaya was the second ship in the Spanish column when the sortie from Santiago harbor was made, and none of THE ARMORY 33 the ill-fated squadron was more gallantly handled. When the leading ship, the Maria Teresa, turned and ran on the beach in flames, the Vizcaya, already suffering severely from the American fire, headed directly for the Brooklyn, to ram her. This caused the latter ship to make the sudden detour which has been the subject of so much discussion among historians of the battle. Thwarted in her effort to ram the Brooklyn, the Vizcaya, riddled and blazing, was forced to turn and run ashore, where she sank in shallow water. The other relics of this group tell their own story. Just behind, and hanging from the gallery railing, is what looks like a large circular shield carved with nautical devices and emblazoned in the navy blue and gold. This was made from the tompion of one of Admiral David D. Porter's 13-inch mortars, with which he bombarded the defenses of New Orleans in 1862. Near the door in the gallery to the left may be seen the stadimeter used by Yeoman Ellis in the bat- tle of Santiago. The printed card tells the story in full. Returning to the stairs, you see in the short gal- leries on each side of the staircase two modern torpe- does and a few small brass guns. Of these latter, the two that face the front windows are signal guns from the famous cup defender America. The smaller ones on lion-shaped mounts — also signal guns — were of English origin, and taken from the English-built com- merce-destroyer Shenandoah when she was turned over to the United States in 1865. On the gallery above you will notice a gilded lion, with his paw rest- ing on a globe. This is a trophy from the quarter- deck of the British frigate Macedonian, after her cap- ture by the United States, Captain Stephen Decatur, Jr., October 25, 18 12. Tradition has it that the first 34 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY shot from the United States carried away the ball under the lion's paw.'^ Descending to the Armory floor, you will find on each side of the stairs a collection chiefly of Civil War projectiles. These are clearly labeled. The floor of the Armory is used not only for indoor drills, but for basket-ball games, fencing matches, two or three of the largest " hops '' of the Academy year, and the graduation exercises. The floor measures 360 by 100 feet, and is set with wooden blocks laid on cement. Leaving the Armory by the same entrance, take the brick walks to the right, running parallel with the terrace. At the left, set just beyond a clump of holly, is an ancient bronze bell from Japan. This was presented in 1854 to Commodore M. C. Perry by the Regent of the Lew Chew Islands, a part of the Island Empire. At this time Perry was conducting the negotiations which resulted in the opening of Japan to the western world. In 1858, in fuliihment of Commodore Perry's wish, his widow presented the bell to the Academy, and it was set up in the yard. It bears a long inscription, the date of which corre- sponds to the year 1456. The sound of this ancient bell, which centuries ago called worshippers to the Buddhist temple, is now heard only on the occasion of a baseball or football vic- tory over West Point. * There is a story current that this lion was taken, together with the Speaker's mace (also at the Academy), from the Parliament House at Toronto during a raid made by the Americans in the War of 1812. There seems to be no evidence to support this account of its origin. The letter reporting the raid mentions as trophies the mace and a number of " dried scalps," found suspended near the Speaker's chair, l;ut makes no reference to a wooden lion. BAXXROFT HALL 35 A few steps further along the side of the terrace brings one to the plaza before the main entrance to Bancroft Hall. Bancroft Hall Visitors are admitted to Bancroft Hall at all hours during the day till supper call, except while a formation is taking place on the terrace. Visitors are allowed to see a midship- man in Bancroft Hall only during the recreation hours, i. e., Saturday and Sunday afternoons, other afternoons from live to BANCROFT HALL six-thirty. The only rooms that may be entered by a visitor unaccompanied by an officer, are the Rotunda, the Reception Room, and Memorial Hall. Bancroft Hall, the midshipmen's dormitory, and the headquarters of the Department of Discipline, is the largest of the Naval Academy buildings, measur- ing 773 feet in extreme length, by 458 feet in extreme width. It cost $3,550,000. It is built entirely of gran- ite, with an arrangement around three courts, two inner, and one large outer court, which serves as an esplanade before the main entrance. The triple door- 36 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY way is fitted with bronze doors, and the approach is Ranked by four fine specimens of Spanish and French guns taken at Vera Cruz. The first two are of French manufacture; at the left, " Le Gaillard " (The Im- petuous), of 1748; at the right, "Mars," of 1755. The two flanking the doorways are Spanish ; at the left, " El Baiazeto," of 1747; to right, " El Meneleas," 1732. The surfaces of these guns are richly orna- mented with carved designs in low relief. As you pass the doors, you find yourself in the ro- tunda, which affords the finest interior effect in the Academy. The floor is patterned in different colored marbles, the walls are of solid limestone, and the vault- ing is covered with plaster, which the architect in- tended to have decorated with fresco. The plan of the rotunda is admirable in its design, lighting, and pro- portions ; the only defect, the darkness of the corri- dors leading to right and left, being due to an admin- istrative change in the architect's original drawing. These corridors, 620 feet long, extend to right and left straight through the building. On each side, save for the offices of the Discipline Department situated near the rotunda, are the midshipmen's rooms. The same arrangement holds for the similar corridors on the two " decks " above, one below, and for those run- ning at right angles to them in the two wings of the dormitory. These wings are built around courts so that the inside rooms may have light and air. Most of the rooms are arranged in a suite of three for two mid- shipmen, two small bedrooms and a study room in common. In each suite is a shower bath. The rooms are severely plain in furnishings, and no ornaments are permitted. BANCROFT HALL 37 The entrance to the Reception Room is the fourth door to the left. Visitors who desire may rest here. Those who wish to see friends among the midshipmen will apply to the " Officer-in-Charge " in the adjoin- ing room. On the walls of the Reception Room hang portraits of distinguished naval officers, each named. Rear-Admiral Dupont commanded the South Atlantic Block- ading Squadron during the greater part of the Civil War. His chief single exploit was the capture of the Confederate forts at Port Royal in November, 1861. Commodore Preble was the officer who, after three years of failure on the part of his predecessors, pushed the Tripolitan War to a successful end (1804-5). It was under him that the war became a brilliant page in American history. Commodore David Porter, father of Admiral Porter, of Civil War fame, is noted chiefly for his commerce-destroying cruise in the Essex in the War of 1812, and his stubborn defence of that ship in the harbor of Valparaiso, March 28, 1814. The silver cup on the table is one of the many gifts of Colonel Robert M. Thompson to the Naval Academy. On this is engraved every year the name of a member of the gradua- ting class who, according to the votes of the school, has done most to promote the success of the Academy in athletics. Returning to the rotunda, the visitor will see at the right of the stairs leading up to Memorial Hall, and under the balcony, an excellent oil portrait of Paul Jones, painted by Cecilia Beaux, presented by the Class of 1 88 1. To the rear of this painting may be seen the coffin of the celebrated " Father of the American Navy," draped with the colors, and resting on tres- tles, awaiting the necessary appropriation on the part of Congress to find a fit resting place in the crypt beneath the Chapel. The body was discovered by General Horace Porter in Paris in 1905, and brought to the Academy in the summer of that year. 38 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY The stairs that go downward from the level of the rotunda lead to Recreation Hall, which, designed originally for a mess hall before the increased number of midshipmen made it too small for the purpose, is now used, as the name suggests, for a general meet- ing place during recreation hours. It contains a col- lection of curiosities brought by naval officers to the Academy from all corners of the world, but it is not open to visitors unless they are accompanied by an officer. The stairs going upward from the rotunda lead to Memorial Hall, which is open to visitors. This fine hall is to be used to commemorate the names of naval officers who have lost their lives under heroic circum- stances. An already large collection of memorial tab- lets covers the walls to the left, and many of these make interesting reading. In the cases fitted into the niches in the walls are battle flags captured in the Civil War and the Spanish- American War. (For the flags of earlier wars, see cases in Library Building.)* Once a year, at graduation time, this room is the scene of the Alumni dinner. The windows offer a fine view of Chesapeake Bay. The parade ground, about 200 yards wide, lying be- tween Bancroft Hall and the Bay, is chiefly made land. Here the midshipmen's drills and parades are eventu- ally to be held. Somewhat to the left is the site of old Fort Severn — the nucleus of the Naval Academy — torn down in 1909. The oldest building of the old Academy, it was also the last to be destroyed. A little * At this writing (May, 1910), the cases are being prepared for the flags, but the flags themselves have not yet been ar- ranged either here or in the Library Building. For this reason they cannot be specifically mentioned. SEAMANSHIP BUILDING 39 farther to the east — near the corner of the Seamanship Building — is where the Peggy Stezvart was burned. Beneath the wide stone terrace lying in front of the windows is the midshipmen's mess hall. The foregoing completes the list of '' sights " avail- able for the visitor in Bancroft Hall, and he must leave, as he entered, by the main doors. To reach the next building of interest, the Seamanship Building, take the walk to the right, after leaving the terrace ; follow around the corner to the right, and pass under the archway that pierces the base of the colonnade which connects Bancroft Hall with the Seamanship Building. The entrance for visitors is at the end of the building that faces Chesapeake Bay. Seamanship Building Open under the same conditions as the Armory (see p. 30). The visitor interested in naval relics will find more in the Seamanship Building than in any other building in the yard. This is due chiefly to the fact that most of the relics that found their way to the Navy Depart- ment, and many of the models that the Department had sent to various expositions, have come eventually to the Academy, and been collected here in the model room of the Seamanship Building. Externally, this structure is the counterpart of the Armory ; within, it is divided into two main parts : the gymnasiinn, with its locker rooms and swimming pool ; and the ship-model room, with the recitation rooms and offices of the Department of Seamanship. The door opens into the model room. The middle of the floor is taken up by a huge model of the screw sloop Antietain. This model was rigged by the mid- 40 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY shipmen, as a part of their course in seamanship, in 1 8/ I. The placard gives a full description. To left and right are wooden models of the ap- proved types of anchors ; these, also, are sufficiently labeled. Continuing to the right, you see suspended from the gallery above, a ship's gig with patched hull, decked over with canvas, and bearing the letter " S " en her bows. On October 30, 1870, the U. S. S. Saginazv was wrecked on Ocean Island, a low, sandy reef in the Pacific. All of her people were saved, and by means of a condenser rigged from the ship's boiler, and a piece of hose, enough fresh water was distilled for the needs of the castaways. But, as the supply of food was scanty, and there was little fuel to keep the con- denser going, it was necessary to get help, especially as the island lay too far out of the track of vessels to leave a hope of rescue from a passing ship. Accordingly, Captain Sicard of the SagiiiGcV fitted out the gig and manned her with a volun- teer crew of four men under Lieutenant Talbot. Three weeks after the wreck of the Saginazv, the little boat spread sail for the Hawaiian Islands to get relief. The expedition had been equipped with all the care possible under the circumstances, but it met with a series of gales that spoiled most of the provi- sions, destroyed all means of making a fire, and, besides threat- ening at any moment to swamp the boat, drove her far out of her course. After a voyage of thirty-eight days, covering 1600 miles, the party sighted one of the Hawaiian Islands. Even then the weather was so heavy that the boat had to lie to for three days before attempting to enter the harbor. Early on the morning of December 19, while waiting for daylight to show the channel, it was sucked in by the current, and re- peatedly capsized in the breakers. The men, in their weakened condition, were unable to struggle long, and out of the five, only one. Coxswain Halford, reached the shore alive. It was he who carried the news that eventually brought relief to Ocean Island. The boat itself was saved, and sent to the Academy. SEAMANSHIP BUILDING 4I On the left, under the Sagiiiazu's gig, is the model of an old-fashioned sailing sloop of war, the Marion. The original was used as one of the practice ships by the midshipmen before the Civil War. In the corner of the room is a pyramid made of pieces of wood from various ships of the navy, all labeled. This was part of the Centennial Exhibit in 1876. The large white eagle that may be seen on the left at the next corner, was the figure-head of the Trenton, one of the steam frigates of the old navy. The Tren- ton was one of the three American ships that were wrecked in the Samoan islands during the great gale of March 15 and 16, 1889. Just above is suspended a boat from the Spanish torpedo boat destroyer Pluton. The Phiton, and her sister-ship Furor, were the two vessels attacked and sunk by the Gloucester in the action of July 3. Near this is suspended a dugout (painted blue), by which Sherman informed the blockading fleet of his successful march to the sea in 1864. To right and left on the ground floor are models of old sailing ships of the navy. In contrast with their antiquity is a section of .the great cable used in towing the " Dewey dry dock " to the Philippines in 1906. Take the door at the right, and follow the stairs to the gallery above. The first object that attracts the eye is a resplendent figure-head, representing the crown and arms of Spain. This belonged to the Span- ish cruiser Don Antonio d'Ulloa, one of the ships sunk by Dewey in the battle of Manila Bay, May i, 1898. The following quotation from an eye witness of the battle describes the heroic defense of this vessel : " Every ship in the Spanish fleet, with one exception, fought valiantly; but to the Don Antonio d'Ulloa and her comman- 42 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY der, Robion, should be given the pahn for that form of des- perate courage and spirit which leads a man to die fighting. The flagship [Olympia] and the Boston were the executioners. Under their shells the Ulloa was soon burning- in half a dozen places, but her fighting crew gave no sign of surrender. Shot after shot struck her hull, until it was riddled like a sieve. Shell after shell struck her upper works, but there were no signs of surrender. The main deck crew escaped, but the cap- tain and his officers clung to the wreck. On the lower deck the gun crews stuck to their posts like the heroes they were. . . . Her commander nailed the Spanish ensign to what was left of the mast, and the Don Antonio d'Ulloa went down not only with her colors flying, but also with her lower guns roar- ing defiance." Just beyond (to the right) is a fine model of the old paddle-wheel frigate Pozi'Jwtan. On this ship the first commercial treaty between Japan and the United States was signed in 1858, and it was still one of onr representative men-of-war as late as the early eighties. Beyond the Fozvhatan are a number of Asiatic boats of various types. On the right hand as you turn the corner, you will see the model of a steam ram, built on the catamaran principle, with the paddle-wheels protected by the outer hulls. This is interesting for more than one reason. In the first place, it was the invention of Commodore James Barron, the commander who figured in the unfortunate Chcsapcakc-Leopard afifair (1807), and who killed Stephen Decatur in a duel (1820) arising out of that episode. The model was submitted to the Navy Department in 1827, and re- jected. Although nothing was ever done with this invention, it is, nevertheless, a forerunner of the steam-ram idea which was developed by the Confed- erates thirty-five years later in such vessels as the Merrimac and Tennessee. SEAMANSHIP BUILDING 43 At the left is a beautiful model of the famous Ville dc Paris. This, with the Dante and the Did on, were presented to the Academy by M. Vattemare of Paris, in 1854. The Ville de Paris was a French ship-of-the-line of the i8th century, regarded as the finest ship of her time. She was pre- sented to Louis XV by the city of Paris. She was the flagship of De Grasse's fleet in the celebrated " Battle of the Saints " in the West Indies, April 12, 1782, which proved to be a decisive victory for the English admiral, Rodne}^ During the latter part of this battle, De Grasse, in the l^illc de Paris, fought, single-handed, a ring of British ships for about five hours. When at last he hauled down his colors, he was one of only three unwounded men left on her spar deck. She was subsequently taken into the British service, and Admiral Col- lingwood died on board her in 1810. Farther to the right is the model of the Revolu- tionary frigate Alliance. This is the ship which, under the command of the crazy Pierre Landais, fired into her consort, the Bonhomme Richard, Captain Paul Jones, during the latter's famous duel with the Scrapis. Next to this is the steamship Central America, the steamer on which Commander Herndon, U. S. N., lost his life while attempting to save his passengers. (For this story, see Herndon Monument, p. 49.) To left and right in the corners are two ships' figure- heads, portrait heads from the Franklin and the George IVashins^ton. Another, standing out from the middle of the gallery rail, is (like the gilded Hon in the Armory) a trophy from the British frigate Mace- donian, captured by Stephen Decatui, Jr., in the United States, October 25, 18 12. If the door to the right is open, the visitor may get a glimpse of the gymnasium. This is the scene of the famous Naval Academy " hops," as well as of the winter athletics 44 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY of the midshipmen. ( Visitors are not permitted on the floor.) Directly in front of you as you step through the door, is a large figure-head of an Indian, the most sacred fetish of the old Academy. This figure-head, popularly known as " Tecumseh," was de- signed to represent the chief of the Delaware Indians. It adorned the frigate Delaware, which was launched in 1820. When she was broken up, the figure-head was sent to the Academy. For many years it stood on a brick pedestal in the yard, and was reverenced by the midshipmen and " candi- dates " as the " god of 2.5." 2.5 is the pass mark of the Acad- emy, and those who were worried over their standing, were supposed to offer him a silent prayer for help as they marched by to examination. On returning to the gallery of the model room, you see still another figure-head on the outer corner at the left, a statue of Andrew Jackson in the conventional pose of a statesman. This belonged to the frigate Constitution, and was the cause of an amusing inci- dent in the history of that famous ship. Before this one, the Constitution had borne three other figure-heads. The first, which represented Hercules, was struck by a shot in one of the attacks on Tripoli, and was soon replaced by a figure of Neptune. This was replaced in turn by the simple billet head which may be seen in the opposite corner of the gallery, behind the Andrew Jackson. This billet head was worn during the War of 1812. After Holmes's famous poem beginning, " Ay, tear her tat- tered ensign down ! " had saved the Constitution from being broken up in 1832, she was sent to the Boston Navy Yard for general refitting. When Commodore Jesse D. Elliott was ap- pointed to command her in 1833, she was all ready for sea except for her figure-head. Elliott, being a Democrat and an enthusiastic admirer of President Jackson, ordered a statue of Old Hickory to be carved to adorn her bows. As Boston was a Whig city, this selection aroused a storm of protest, but it served only to make the commodore more stubborn. As SEAMANSHIP BUILDING 45 threats of violence were heard, Elhott moored the Constitu- tion between two ships-of-the-Hne, and stationed extra guards on her deck. An adventurous young shipmaster named Dewey took it into his head that it would be a fine lark to saw off the head of Jackson, and bring it away as a trophy. He waited for a stormy night, then rowed out to the Constitution, stealth- ily climbed up her bows, and lying on his back on the bob stays, sawed away till the head was off. The continuous thunder covered the noise of sawing, and Dewey got away without even being challenged. The feat aroused the ire of Elliott, who offered $1000 for information leading to the arrest of the perpetrator. But Boston citizens were jubilant. Dinners were given in which the severed head served as a centerpiece, Dewey was surrep- titiously lionized, and Elliott had to sail with the headless President to New York, without getting any satisfaction. There the figure-head was repaired by the original carver, and it remained thereafter for more than forty years under the Constitution's bowsprit. Meanwhile, the irrepressible Dewey had the impudence to exhibit the head in New York, Philadel- phia, and Washington, and was prevented from giving it to the President himself one day only by the latters illness. It is said that when an indignant friend urged Jackson to have Dewey punished, Old Hickory answered, " The fellow did perfectly right. It's a damned ugly head anyway." The modest billet head of the Constitution in the other corner, accompanied her in the days when she made herself the most famous ship of the American Navy, She was three times pursued by a British squadron, and as many times escaped. She captured the frigates Guerricrc (Aug. 19, 1812) and Java (Dec. 29, 18 1 2), and injured both so badly that they had to be blown up in mid ocean. Toward the end of the war she ran the blockade, and fought the frigate Cyane and the sloop of war Levant together, captur- ing both (Feb. 20, 1815). The rehabilitated Consti- tution lies now at the Boston Navy l^ard. 46 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY There arc several interesting- ship models and curi- osities in the remaining gallery, notably the French frigate Did on (see placard) and the Dante. This lat- ter is remarkable as a type of the elaborate ornamenta- tion which characterized the warships, as well as the cannon, of the 17th century, and the old style of naval architecture, notably the way in which the masts are stepped. 01. \ Al I'lA, II AU ri-( )U!) AM) SA.\ ri.l'. To the east of the Seamanship Building is the San- tee Wharf. Here will be seen an old frigate, roofed over, the Santee. Her interior is devoid of interest, and though the hulk suggests the Old Navy, she had practically no part in it. Park Benjamin says of the Santee in his history of the Academv: " She was a ' political ship,' built piecemeal about election time for many years by prospective voters who had to be 'taken care of.' Her keel was laid at the Portsmouth (New Hampshire) Navy Yard in 1820 — and thirty-five years after- ward she was launched. She had no historic record, and her service had been very limited." THE HARTFORD AND OLY^IPIA 47 In the spring of 1862 she was sent to Newport, to which the Academy had been removed at the outbreak of the war, to serve with the Constitution as a schoolship. In later years she was long used at the Academy as a guard ship, on which mid- shipmen who had received an excess of demerits took up their temporary quarters. On the outer side of the Santee Wharf is Farragut's old flagship, the Hartford. This is open to the public until sunset, and for those who have time it is worth while to tread her historic decks. As Farragut began his operations in the Mississippi in the spring of 1862, the Hartford was a new ship, having sailed on her first cruise, to China, only three years before. When pass- ing the forts below New Orleans, the flagship was a target for the heavy guns of the Confederates, and found a grave danger in a fire-raft that was pushed down upon her. Later, in pass- ing the batteries at Vicksburg and at Port Hudson, her strong sides were again severely tested. However, the supreme moment of Farragut's life, and of the ship inseparably con- nected with his career, came at the battle of Mobile Bay, August 5. 1864. The Admiral, from his station in the rigging, had seen the heavy Union monitor Tecumseh sunk by a tor- pedo, and the column of wooden ships halting and becoming confused, right under the guns of Fort Morgan at the entrance to ^Mobile Bay. The ships ahead made it impossible for him to enter the bay except by passing over what was known to be a line of torpedoes. This course, his only chance of victory, he instantly chose. As the Hartford swung clear and got under way, there came the warning cry from one of the other ships, " Torpedoes ahead ! " " Damn the torpedoes ! "' shouted Farragut, intent only on his high purpose. " Four bells ! Captain Drayton, go ahead ! Jouett, full speed ! " The Hartford crossed the Ime of tor- pedoes in safety, and sped on to victory. Farragut's famous utterance will be seen in the after part of the ship blazoned on one of the beams above the gun deck. In the eighties the Hartford was rehabilitated for the purpose of a trauiing ship at a cost of $600,000, 48 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY and considerably altered in appearance. She was shortened by about thirty feet, an upper deck was built from poop to topgallant forecastle, and her rig was changed from full-rigged to bark. The guns she carries to-day are not her Civil War armament, but modern rapid fire guns for the instruction of the mid- shipmen. The white cruiser anchored in mid stream is the Olympia, Admiral Dew^ey's flagship in the battle of Manila Bay, May i, 1898. Her construction was authorized by act of Congress in and she was completed in 1892. While she is frequently re- ferred to as a " battleship," she belonged to the class of " first- rate protected cruisers." In the famous victory of May i, the Olympia headed the American line, followed by the Baltimore, Raleigh, Petrel, Concord, and Boston. Under Dewey's direc- tion, the line passed the anchored Spanish ships, then turned and repassed them. This plan kept the American squadron in constant motion, and by turning alternate broadsides in firing, enabled every battery to come into play, thereby relieving the strain on each. According to the Spanish Admiral's report, the enemy lost 381 killed and wounded. The American loss was only seven slightly wounded. As the Olympia is now obsolete as a fighting machine, she is kept at Annapolis for the instruction of midshipmen. To continue the route through the yard, it is better to retrace the way back to the main walks leading to the entrance of Bancroft Hall, and follow one of them to the Academic Group (see diagram). On the other side of the bandstand, to the left, runs a gravel path known to every generation of midshipmen as '* Love Lane." In the old days it was shaded by accommoda- ting shrubbery, but an unsentimental Superintendent tore this up and left the path as it is now. A few steps from the bandstand the '' lane " passes a plain granite MONUMENTS 49 obelisk, bearing the name " Herndon " and the date " September 12, 1857." This was erected by naval officers to the memory of Com- mander William L. Herndon, who lost his life while in com- mand of the mail steamer Central Americo. (At that time the law required steamships carrying the California mail to be commanded by naval officers.) The steamer foundered in a gale off Hatteras. Out of 575 souls only 152 were saved, and $2,000,000 in gold went down with her. The ship's distress signals brought the brig Marine to the rescue, and the latter managed to take aboard the women and children, together with a few other passengers. When Hern- don realized that nothing more could be done for his ship or her people, he went to his cabin and dressed himself in full uniform. Returning to the deck, he took his post on the wheel house. A few minutes later, the steamer lurched and went down, and as she sank, her commander reverently uncovered. At the right, alongside one of the brick walks, is a small marble monument with gilt decorations, sur- rounded by four Spanish guns taken by the navy in California. This is the Mexican War Monument, erected by ujidshipmen to the memory of their com- rades, Midshipmen Clemson, Hynson, Pillsbury, and Shubrick, who lost their lives during the naval opera- tions before A^era Cruz in 1846-7. Clemson and Hynson were drowned when the brig Somers capsized in the harbor of Vera Cruz. There was but one boat available, which they refused to get into, ordering their men into it until it was filled. As the Somers went down, it car- ried Hynson with her ; Clemson held to a spar till he saw that it could not support all who were clinging to it, and then de- liberately abandoned it. Midshipman Pillsbury was drowned by the foundering of a sailing launch of which he was in command. All hands clung to the upturned boat; but Pillsbury, seeing that one of his men was exhausted, attempted to give him his own place, which 50 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY was more secure, but in the effort was swept away by the heavy seas. Shiibrick was killed while in the act of sighting a gun in the naval battery erected on shore before Vera Cruz. The tall white staff near the edge of the green, at the left, will be recognized as a " wireless " receiver. The station is on the ground floor of the left wing of the Academic Group, which lies directly ahead. The Academic Group This has three parts, the center and the two wings. The wings, which are not open to visitors, contain merely the recitation rooms and of^ces of various de- partments of instruction. The center building com- prises an auditorium on the lower floor, and the Acad- emy Library on the upper. The Library is open week- days from 9 to 6, except Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, when it is closed to all but midshipmen and officers. On each side of the walk leading to the main en- trance are two splendid examples of ancient French gims (taken at Vera Cruz). As these are placed so that they can be easily examined, it is worth while scanning the ornamentation and inscriptions. The one at the visitor's right (as he faces the Library Building) is " Le Mordicant " (The Biter). This (date of 1685) belongs to the age of Louis XIV, and reflects the glory and pride of that reign. Near the muzzle is the motto of the gun, "Ultima Ratio Regum " (The last argument of kings). The name '' Le Marechal Due de Humieres," followed by the Duke's arms, shows who was the Chief of Ordnance of that day. The motto, " Nee Pluribus Impar," was the proud boast of Louis XIV. It means, literally, " Not unequal to many," interpreted to mean, " Superior to all the world." Below this motto is an image of the sun, the King's chosen symbol of THE ACADEMIC GROUP 51 himself. Around the rim of the breech is an inscription to the effect that the gun was cast by the " Keller brothers of the Swiss province of Thurgau." The Keller brothers were the most famous gun founders of their day, and their services were obtained by Louis XIV for his own arsenals. " Le Grondeur" (The Grumbler), on the other side of the walk, has the same inscriptions, although cast in 1755, nearly a cen- tury later. Notice the fantastic breech. The bronze mortar directly ahead, at the foot of the steps, was taken from the Mexicans in California. LIP.RARY BUILDING, ACADEMIC GROUP Just above this is the original tablet commemorating the founding of the Naval Academy in 1845. The main entrance above is open to visitors. Within, the corridors, divided by the broad double flight of stairs to the Library, offer one of the most attractive in- teriors among the buildings of the yard. The niches, fitted with cases, will soon contain some of the most precious relics of the Academy, the battle flags cap- tured from the enemy in our early wars, notably the War of 18 12. 52 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY The Library, on the floor above, contains little of general interest to the visitor beyond a set of portraits of former Superintendents, many of them famous. The visitor who wants a glimpse of the Library, how- ever, may ascend the broad stairway. The large room at the left of the head of the stairs is the main reading room. On the catalogue case is a bronze bust of Colonel Robert M. Thompson, to whose generosity and interest in the Academy allusion has already been made in several instances. Around the walls of this room are hung the portraits of the Superintendents of the Academy in chronological order, beginning with the corner just at the right of the door as you enter. The first is Commander Franklin Buchanan, captain of Perry's flagship in the famous expedition to Japan ; and later, in the Confederate Service, captain of the celebrated Mcrrimac {Virginia), when she destroyed the Cumberland and Congress in Hampton Roads, March 8, 1862. A wound received during the attack on the Congress prevented his commanding the Merrimac the following day, when she fought the Monitor. In the defense of Mobile, August 5, 1864, he commanded the ironclad Tennessee. After Admiral Farragut had succeeded in bringing his fleet past the fort into the bay, Buchanan left his sheltered anchorage under the guns of the fort, and, single- handed, attacked the entire Federal fleet. In this battle, also, he was wounded, and his ironclad, reduced to a helpless con- dition, was forced to surrender. The sixth portrait is that of Admiral David D. Porter, who was Superintendent at the close of the war, and did so much for the reorganization of the school. Porter was second only to Farragut in the reputation won during the Civil War. He served with Farragut in the capture of New Orleans, cooper- ated with Grant in the campaign that ended with the fall of Vicksburg, and with the help of the army captured Fort Fisher, the last stronghold of the Confederacy. The portrait just beyond his is that of Commodore John L. Worden, who commanded the Monitor in her famous duel with the Merrimac, March 9, 1862. THE TRIPOLI MONUMENT 53 On the wall directly opposite will be recognized the portrait of Commander Sampson (later Rear-Admiral), who com- manded the American fleet at the battle of Santiago. The fourth portrait from his is that of Commander (now Rear- Admiral) Richard Wainwright, who won distinction in that battle by his conduct as commander of the Gloucester. This was a wholly unprotected boat, mounting light guns, but he did not hesitate to attack the two Spanish torpedo boat de- stroyers Pluton and Furor, as they emerged from the harbor entrance at the end of the Spanish line; and it was largely due to his action that they were both speedily sunk. On leaving the Library Building, turn to the right, and take the broad walk that leads toward the Athletic Field (see diagram). A short distance on the left of the w^alk will be noticed an ornate monu- ment midway between the broad walk and the Offi- cers' Mess. This is the Tripoli Monument. This monument owes its existence to the friendship and ad- miration of the officers of the navy, who assigned a portion of their pay for the memorial to their fallen comrades. The care of procuring the monument was left to David Porter, and he probably suggested the design. He was assisted by the Bishop of Florence, whose interest had been aroused by the active efforts of America in suppressing the piracy of the Mediterra- nean. Through the influence of the Bishop, the charge for the work was only about one-half the usual rates. When finished, it was brought over to the United States on the frigate Constitution. The female figure bearing a headdress of feathers, and dressed in a short petticoat of ostrich feathers, with Roman leggings and shoes, leading two children and pointing up- ward, represents " America " ; the draped female figure with pen and book in her hands is " History " ; the male figure bearing the caduceus of Mercury stands for " Commerce " ; and the winged figure holding a wreath represents "Victory." On the four sides of the block on which the column rests, are panels, three of which bear inscriptions. The fourth is of special interest, as it gives a view in bas-relief of the city of 54 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY Tripoli, with Commodore Preble's squadron attacking. While the artistic merit of the scene is small, the sculpture was proba- bly made from a drawing by David Porter, who, as one of the prisoners from the Philadelphia in Tripoli, was an eye witness of the entire campaign. It gives, probably, a fair idea of the appearance of Tripoli in 1804. The monument has had vicissitudes. It was erected in the Washington Navy Yard in 1808. In 1814 it was mutilated by the British, when they burned the capital, but was afterwards restored by act of Congress. For some time it stood in the Capitol grounds, and in i860 it was transferred to the Naval Academy. The memorial was raised to five young naval officers who lost their lives in the operations against Tripoli in 1804. Lieu- tenant James Decatur (brother of Stephen Decatur) was treacherously shot by the Tripolitan commander of a gunboat which had just surrendered to him. This occurred in the first of a series of gunboat attacks against the Tripohtan fleet. In the second attack. Lieutenant Caldwell and Midshipman Dor- sey were killed by the explosion of the magazine on their boat. Lieutenant Somers and Midshipmen Wadsworth and Israel lost their lives in a daring attempt to destroy Tripolitan ship- ping. The ketch Intrepid, which, under Stephen Decatur, had succeeded in destro3ang the Philadelphia in the harbor of Tripoli, was fitted out as a floating mine and taken into the harbor for the purpose of exploding her in the midst of the Tripolitan vessels. Two rowboats were taken along for the escape of the officers and crew. The Intrepid, however, was attacked before she had passed the entrance to the harbor, and she suddenly blew up. Not a man escaped. Whether Somers deliberately fired the magazine to prevent the ship from falling into the hands of the enemy, or whether a hot shot from the gunboats exploded her, must always remain a mystery. The next turn to the right leads to the Steam Engi- neering Building, situated directly to the rear of the Academic Group. Open 8 to 12, i to 5. The entrance faces the rear of the Aca- demic Group. THE STEAM ENGINEERING BUILDING 55 Here is the most extensive collection of models in IMarine Engineering in all the country, and the man of mechanical taste will find much of absorbing in- terest. The main entrance opens upon a large room, where are models of warships (entire and in section), drv- docks, ships' boilers, and engines. Many of the last are working models, driven by compressed air. In the shop to the east (towards the river) further work- ing models and engines will be found, and almost every day the midshipmen of the upper classes, in their white drill clothes, may be seen operating the engines, putting into practice the principles which they are studying in their text-books, and which they will soon have to deal with on shipboard. In the shop to the west of the main entrance hall the midshipmen have practice in pattern making, and in the shops to the rear they are drilled in blacksmith- ing, moulding, and casting, and in chipping, filing, and turning iron and steel. The visitor should not fail to go to the second floor (stairway to the rear of the entrance hall) and see the large drawing room, remarkable for its size and for its splendid provisions for light. In these respects it is regarded as the finest drawing room in the coun- try. The visitor who has only two or three hours at his disposal, will probably find it necessary, after reach- ing the Athletic Field, to take the first path to the left, leading to ''Upshur Row" gate (AA), and back to town. He will, nevertheless, get at this point a good view of the midshipmen's Athletic Field, the Naval Cemetery beyond, and, in the distance, to the left, the long barracks of the IMarine Corps. 56 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY Those who have more leisure will find interest in the row of guns that lie to the right, and behind the bleachers, and will be repaid by a walk to the Ceme- tery. The guns ranged along the water front side of the field are relics chiefly of the Civil War and of the War of 1812. The first of these is a huge 12-inch wrought-iron smooth- bore gun. called the " Oregon," designed by Commodore Stock- ton, U. S. N. The interest attached to this is that its mate, named the " Peacemaker," exploded on being fired the first time, killing the Secretary of the Navy and a number of other officials. Next beyond is an 8-inch Armstrong rifle (English manufacture) taken from Fort Fisher after the fall of that stronghold in 1865. The third, a 100-pound Brooks rifle, is interesting as being one of the two heavy guns mounted by the Confederate ram Albemarle. The destruction of this ram by Lieutenant Cushing (1864) is still unsurpassed in the history of the navy for coolness and daring. One night, w^ith a picked crew of five volunteers, he took a small launch armed with a torpedo up the river to where the Albemarle was moored. When near his destination, he was discovered and fired upon. At the same time he found that a boom of logs lay about the ram for the purpose of keep- ing off torpedo attacks. Sheering round, he drove at full speed against the boom, rode over it, and came up to the side of the ram, all the while under a musketry fire. Then he coolly lowered the torpedo and blew a hole in the Albemarle's hull below the water line that ended her career. Refusing to surrender, he swam down river, and, finally, after great hard- ships, got back to the Union fleet. After the loss of the ram, this gun was removed to Morris Island, where it was captured. Looking across the mouth of the creek to the Cemetery the visitor will see the gravestone of Cushing himself, situated at the extremity of the bluff. Passing a tiny mortar and a small cannon, one comes upon two British 12-pounders taken from the Macedonian, which surrendered to Captain Decatur, October 25, 1812. The two short, wide-muzzled guns just beyond are " carronades," a BRITISH AND CONFEDERATE GUNS 5/ type devised for use at close quarters. These, also, are tro- phies from the Macedonian. Passing three more, you reach a makeshift gun of the Confederacy. This, and the third up the line, were manufactured at Galveston from the shaft of the Federal ship WestHcld. The shaft was used as the "core" of the gun, rifled, and then reinforced at the breech by a heavy jacket shrunk on. These guns are eloquent of the straits to which the Confed- eracy was put for steel, and the ingenuity displayed in making the most of every piece that could be found. A few steps further brings one to two guns, with a brass plate on each, indicating that they came from the British frig- ate Coniiance taken in i^dacdonough's victory at Lake Cham- plain. These trophies represent the most decisive victory in the War of 1812 (September 11, 1814), won by the courage and forethought of the young x\merican commander pitted against a superior force. Before the battle he had arranged his little squadron to the greatest possible advantage, and pro- vided his ships with cables or " springs," so that he might " wind " a ship about to bring a fresh battery into play. At the crisis of the battle, when all the guns of his flagship on the engaged side were rendered useless, he resorted to this de- vice, brought an uninjured broadside to bear, and received the surrender of the enemy a few minutes afterwards. The first of the two guns, that dented on its left side, is the one which killed the British commander, Downie, early in the action. The blow of the American shot drove the quoin of the gun against the English captain at the moment when he was sight- ing the gun. The two carronades at the end of the line are trophies from the British frigate Cyane, taken by the Constifii- tion, Feb. 20, 1815. This capture was effected by one of the finest instances of seamanship in our history. Captain Stewart of the American frigate engaged at the same time two British ships, the Cyane (frigate) and the Levant (corvette), and handled the Constitution so skillfully that he allowed neither antagonist the advantage of a raking position, while managing at the same time to rake them both repeatedly. The Levant was afterwards recaptured by a British squadron. 58 ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY The bridge across the creek leads to the Naval Cemetery, which lies on a beautiful wooded elevation overlooking the water. Here may be found the names of many a gallant spirit who met his death " in the line of duty " or won fame by acts of heroism. Some of the names on the tablets in i\Iemorial Hall will be recognized here. In these pages, however, it will be possible to mention only a few of the most interesting monuments. Visitors will take the road to the right. The hand- some granite block, to the left of the road, not far from the entrance, was erected to Midshipman James Branch by his classmates. It will recall to many the tragic end of his fight with a brother midshipman under the old Naval Academy " code." The death of Branch resulted in the abolition of the hazing and fighting system which had long prevailed among the midshipmen. A few steps beyond, the road passes a towering cross fringed with icicles. This is the Jean- nette Monument, erected Oct. 30, 1890, to the mem- orv of those who perished in the ill-fated voyage of the Jcannettc under Lieutenant-Commander De Long. The expedition was fitted out by James Gordon Bennett, editor of the New York Tribune. In the summer of 1879 De Long set out via Behring Strait to explore Wrangell Land, which was thought to be part of an Arctic continent lying north of Siberia. Unfortunately, the little vessel was caught in an ice pack and carried to the northwest of Wrangell Land, which was then seen to be only a small island. For two years the Jeannette was imprisoned by the ice. Finally, on June 23, 1881, she was sunk by the pack, leaving her crew on the ice floes in the middle of the Arctic Ocean. Then, by means of boats and sledges, they worked their way south to the Lena Delta. There, in trying to reach land, they were overcome by a gale that sank one boat and separated the other two. One small party, under Chief-Engineer Melville (now Rear- NAVAL CEMETERY 59 Admiral), made their way to a settlement. The other, under De Long, died of starvation before they could get help. Early the following spring Melville discovered the bodies of De Long and his companions, and erected over them a cairn of rocks surmounted by a wooden cross. By act of Congress the bodies were afterward brought home, and this memorial erected in the Naval Academy Cemetery is a replica of the rough monument raised by Melville on the scene of their death. Farther on to the left of the road may be seen a tombstone distinguished b}" a hemisphere of marble, marked with parallels and meridians, resting on a laurel wreath. This is the grave of Lieutenant Lock- wood, U. S. A., a native of Annapolis. He is the only army of^cer buried in this cemetery. The fame of this young officer rests on his exertions in reaching " farthest North '"' during the ill-fated Greely expedi- tion. When this memorial was set up, the marble hemisphere was marked with a star showing the point reached by Lockwood, but the stone has become so weatherworn that this has been obliterated. In the summer of 1884 Commander Schley came to the rescue of the Greely party, but Lockwood had already died of starvation and exposure. His farthest north was not surpassed till Perry's expedition of 1900. Near this grave is that of Lockwood' s father, one of the founders of the Naval Academy. Following the road to the crest of the knoll, one comes upon the grave of Gushing, which is easily recognizable, occupying the place of honor. On the stone are carved the names of actions with which his fame is associated, notably "Albemarle." (For the Albemarle story see p. 56.) A short distance to the left and rear of Cushing's grave is that of Lieutenant Preston, a young officer 6o ANNAPOLIS AND THE NAVAL ACADEMY whose career also was distinguished by personal dar- ing. He fell while leading the naval assault on Fort Fisher. A few steps to the right brings one to a severely plain tombstone, bearing the name of Charles W. Flusscr. This marks the grave of one of the bravest and finest characters in the Civil War, called by those who knew him, " Lion-Hearted Flusser." It was under Flusser that Cushing had his '' baptism of fire," and it was in the first attack of the ram Albemarle that Flusser met his death. With characteristic im- petuosity he ran his frail wooden boat so close to his armored antagonist that fragments of the shell he fired with his own hand, bounding back from the Albciuarlc's casemate, killed him instantly. Flusser's was the first grave in this cemetery. In a dip of land beyond, under a grove of firs, are several rows of head-stones, all marked " Huron." Here are gathered the remains recovered from the wreck of the steam sloop of war Huron. On the night of November 3, 1877, she put to sea from Hampton Roads in a heavy southeast gale. She was an iron ship, and it has been suggested that the compass deviation had not been correctly ascertained for her. At any rate, her cap- tain. Commander Ryan, apparently lost his bearings, for he took his vessel too near the coast. She struck on the sands of Hatteras the following morning and was completely wrecked. Over a hundred were lost, including Commander Ryan and six other officers. In the front of the Huron group, facing the water, is a memorial to two midshipmen, Neuman and Ward, who were classmates, roommates, and chums through- out the Academy course, and met their death together in a turret explosion on board the Missouri in 1904. NAVAL HOSPITAL 6l The buildings to the north of the Cemetery are the Naval Hospital and its outlying quarters for surgeons and nurses. The most convenient route for returning to town is to retrace one's steps to the Athletic Field and thence out of the yard by the Upshur Row gate (diagram AA). "Wartiour" Beautiful Suburban estates on tbe ^euern Kiuer FIRST shore above Annapolis and the U. S. Naval Academy. The Maryland Electric Railways (Short Line) passes through this property, with a station at the river-shore. Only 43 minutes from Baltimore, and two minutes from Annapolis. This is a suburban development on w^idely different lines from those usually followed in this vicinity; and the location is perfect for this character of work. Situ- ated as it is — "next door" to the U. S. Naval Academy — it has a surety of ever-increasing interest and value. It is also only ten minutes drive, or twenty minutes walk, from Annapolis. The outlook from this water-front is unrivaled. The banks of the river here are high, over-looking the Naval Academy, the harbor, and across Chesapeake Bay to Kent Island. As all of this shore stands out boldly into the river, the views looking up the Severn are also unusually fine. Every graceful curve, every picturesque point, can be seen ; and Round Bay, itself, shows its beautiful sweep of curving lines opening out above the " Narrows." The planning of this suburb is the work of Mr. Frederick Law Olmsted, of Olmsted Bros., Boston, the leading landscape architect of the country. Each building site at Wardour is supplied with water by the latest and most approved system. FOR INFORMATION APPLY TO ROBERT GIDDINGS ALDRIDGE CARVEL HALL ANNAPOLIS, MD. ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE An unbroken history of over 200 YEARS is the proud record of ST. JOHN'S CLASSICAL, LATIN, SCIENTIFIC, SCIENTIFIC AND MECHANICAL ENGINEERING COURSES MILITARY DEPORTMENT UNDER ARMY OFFICER Designated by the U. S. Government as one of the six leading military colleges where students have shown great proficiency in military training. This constitutes the Department of Arts and Sciences of the University of Maryland. Together with the College there is a PREPAR- ATORY SCHOOL FOR BOYS, which fits students for St. John's, other colleges, and for the Naval Academy. Large grounds and modern equipment for all college sports. For catalogue address the President, THOS. FELL, Ph. D., LL.D. ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND T] LEMMER MAKER OF MEN'S CLOTHES AT MODERATE PRICES THE BEST VALUES EOR THE MONEY BALTIMORE, 19 E. Fayette St. ANNAPOLIS, 25 Maryland Ave. R. L. chance: J3a^\"ELER 136 MAIN ST. ANNAPOLIS, MI). U. S. Navy SEAL PINS. FLAG and ANCHOR PINS, NAVY BELT BUCKLES, SOUVENIR SPOONS Ask to see the unique Naval Academf Souvenir Spoon of our own design W. H. THOMAS & CO. CLOTHIERS, HATTERS AND FURNISHERS READY-TO-WEAR AND MADE-TO-MEASURE CLOTHING 143 MAIN STREET - - ANNAPOLIS, MD. Phone 280 HEADQUARTERS FOR THE NAVY Carvel Mall FIRST CLASS MODERN HOTEL A splendid example of the Colonial mansion, its character has been carefully preserved in the additions and restorations which have trans- formed it to an up-to-date hotel, with electric lights throughout, steam heat, and public telephone in all private rooms. It is situated on the W. B. & A. Electric Line and within 100 yards of the Naval Academy. Sight-seers for the day will find Carvel Hall the most convenient and the best place for luncheon. ^ ^ 5^ Everything the Best at Reasonable Rates. ^ottl iMarglanb GEORGE T. MELVIN, Prop. ANNAPOLIS, MD. The Hotel Maryland is equipped with all modern appointments, comfortable rooms, private baths, steam heat, telephone service, newspaper and book stand. The location is the most elevated and accessible in the city, within three minutes walk of the Naval Academy. The accommodations are in all respects first-class and up-to-date, and charges moderate. Special rates to Naval Officers, their families, and the parents and relatives of midshipmen. Electric cars, connecting Baltimore and Washington with the U. S. Naval Academy, pass the Hotel Maryland every few minutes. PHONE CALL 270 OFFICE 159 WEST ST. RICHARD G. CHANEY THE LEADING LIVERY STABLES TEAMS of all kinds for hire by day, week, or month, including fine saddle horses. BAGGAGE TRANSFERRED and checked from residence to all points. AUTOMOBILES for hire by the hour. Note : Our automobiles have the necessary official permission to enter the Naval Academy Grounds. AUTOMOBILE GARAGE for storage. Blacksmith and Carriage Repair Shop. Fireproof Storage Warehouse. SIGHT-SEEING IS TIRESOME AT BEST Take one of our automobiles and be comfortable DON'T WEAR YOURSELF OUT BY WALKING! FOR A GOOD CARRIAGE 'PHONE TO THOS. S. DOVE TELEPHONE 211 OFFICE AND STABLES, 89 WEST STREET FIRST-CLASS SINGLE AND DOUBLE RIGS Trusty Horses and Careful Drivers GOOD SADDLE HORSES Passenger and Baggage Transfer Gilbert's Pharmacy" STATE CIRCLE ca, EAST ST. SODA WATER Agent For "GUTH'S CHOCOLATES" GARDES BROS. PHONE 591 Y 163 MAIN STREET SPACIOUS anb AIRY DINING ROOMS Ice Cream and Confectionery of Our Own Make and Absolutely Pure LARGE AND WELL EQUIPPED SODA FOUNTAIN SPECIAL CATERING SOLICITED LEON STRAUSS HARRY STRAUSS THE FASHION STRAUSS BROS.. PROP. TAILORING OF THE BETTER KIND 227 Prince George St., near Md. Ave. Phone 387 Our Pressing Department the Best in the City FREE CALL AND PROMPT DELIVERY Our Delivery Wagon will be at Your Command at all times to call promptly The Only One in the City Enlarging Our Specialty Artistic Framing YOUR KODAK MAN "SUSSMAN" 223 PARK AVENUE BALTIMORE Artistic Framing' Developing' and Printing Tailoring that's stamped unmista kably with the air of class and individ- uality. PHILIP FILLER ^^-^^^^ 32-36 Market Space Annapolis We are agents for the well known Mark Cross leather goods and novel- ties. Md. CUSTOM TAILORING HABERDASHERY and SHOES Shoes with that touch of character that gives distinction to your dress. We Are Sole Agents For KNOX HATS H aberdashery with all the latest novelties dictated by the require- ments of critical dressers. ARTHUR W. ROBSON 127 E. BALTIMORE ST. BALTIMORE, MD. Steamship Tickets on all Trans-Atlantic, Trans-Pacific and Coastwise Lines Companies' Advertised Rates Charged. You Do Not Pa.y Anything' For My Services TRAVELERS' CHEQUES PAYABLE EVERYAVHERE Letters of Credit Remittances by Draft or Cable FOREIGN MONEY BOUGHT AND SOLD Local and Long Distance Telephones St. Paul 2880 CENTRALLY LOCATED OPPOSITE CAMDEN STATION MAIN DEPOT B. & O. R. R. EUROPEAN 130 ROOMS ELEGANTLY FURNISHED UNEXCELLED CUISINE ROOMS WITH BATH AND EN SUITE RATES $1.00 PER DAY AND UPWARDS BALTIMORE ANNAPOLIS SHORT LINE (The Maryland Electric Railways Co.) HALF HOURLY SERVICE BETWEEN ANNAPOLIS AND BALTIMORE The ONLY line making the run in FORTY-FIVE MINUTES Electric Cars leave Baltimore (CAMDEN STATION) and Annapolis (BLADEN STREET STATION) EVERY HALF HOUR, on the hour, and thirty minutes after the hour, between 6.00 A. M. and 6.00 P. M., then at 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11.35 P. M. At Annapolis, the ANNAPOLIS SHORT LINE delivers passengers, direct to Court House, State House, State Buildings and conveniently near all points of interest and within five minutes walk of NAVAL ACADEMY. SCHEDULE OF CARS THE SAME FOR WEEK DAYS, SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS Fare, Round Trip, $ 1.00 One way 60c. For special party and commutation rates apply to General Tiaket|and Freight Agent, Annapolis, Md. i O V DOBBS BROS. -r, LIBRARY BINDING C^ •FEB T3 ^ ^^. ST. AUGUSTINE ^'-^ /^% FLA. L^° W32O84 iK^^° A' LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 365 709 7 \