Class T%$£1 Book. CbpyrightN? COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. A TREATISE ON FOOD AND EGG PRODUCTION. BY FREDERICK KELLEY. <3 r many hours. It requires seven pounds of bones to represent the equiva- lent of one pound of meat in nitrogen. Gelatin, which forms the basis of soup, is the nitrogenous principle ex- tracted by boiling from bones. Liver. The liver of many domestic animals is con- sumed as food. It is generally fried, and, thus prepared, forms a rich and savory dish. Its richness renders it an inappropriate food for a delicate stomach. Composition of Calf's Liver. Nitrogenous matter 20.10 Fat 5.58 Carbohydrate 0.45 Saline matter 1.54 Water 72.33 100.00 Kidney. The substance of the kidney is of a close, fleshy nature. It can never be looked upon as otherwise than an article of difficult digestibility, but as regards this 34 A TREATISE ON FOODS. quality a great deal depends upon its mode of cooking. When lightly cooked it is soft, juicy, and agreeably sapid, but cooked for some time, and with the employ- ment of a high temperature, it undergoes considerable contraction, and becomes hard, dry, comparatively taste- less, and exceedingly indigestible. The amount of fatty matter present is small. Composition of Sheep's Kidneys. Nitrogenous matter 17.250 Fatty matter 2.125 Saline matter 1.100 Organic matter and loss I -3 2 5 Water 78. 200 1 00. coo Heart. The heart consists of fat and muscular tissue, like ordinary meat. The muscular tissue, however, is of a much closer texture and this gives the greater hard- ness which is well known to belong to. it both in the cooked and uncooked state. On account of the closeness of texture and hardness, it forms an indigestible article of food. Tripe. The tripe which is consumed as human food consists of the paunch or first portion of the ruminant stomach of the ox. This is the only instance of any part of the alimentary canal being applied to our own use, excepting in the case of the pig, where the chitterlings are cleansed and eaten. The muscular fibres belonging to tripe possess a different structure from those belong- ing to ordinary meat, and yield more readily to digestion. Tripe, indeed, is an easily digestible article of food, but the fat present renders it somewhat rich., a treatise on foods. 35 Composition of Tripe. Nitrogenous matter 13.2 Fat 16.4 Saline matter 2.4 Water 68.00 100.00 Unwholesome Meat. Meat cannot be subjected, like many alimentary articles, to adulteration or falsification, but it may be in an unwholesome state, and thereby unfit for food. Good meat, according to the best of author- ities, has the following characters : 1st. It is neither of a pale pink color nor of a deep purple, for the former is a sign of disease, and the latter indicates that the animal has not been slaughtered, but has died with the blood in it, or has suffered from acute fever. 2nd. It has a marbled appearance, from the rami- fications of little veins of fat among the muscles. 3rd. It should be firm and elastic to the touch, and should scarcely moisten the fingers, bad meat being wet, and sodden, and flabby, with the fat looking like jelly. 4th. It should have little or no odor, and the odor should not be disagreeable, for diseased meat has a sickly smell, and sometimes a smell of physic. This is very discoverable when the meat is chopped up and drenched with warm water. 5th. It should not shrink or waste much in cooking. 6th. It should not run to w r ater or become very wet on standing for a day or so, but should, on the contrary, be dry upon the surface. 36 A TREATISE ON FOODS. To this may be added that there should be no sign of the presence of parasites. The fat also should neither be deficient nor excessive. There is one form of parasite which is frequently met with, particularly in the case of the pig, here giving rise to what is known as "measly pork." It consists of a little animal possessing a tape-worm-like head with a bladder-like tail, from which its name cysticcnts is de- rived. It lies in the flesh surrounded by a cyst, which in the pig is about the size of a hemp seed, and thus is easily seen. The cysticerci of beef and veal are much smaller than those of pork, and require close inspection to discover them. When meat thus infested is eaten in the raw or imperfectly cooked state, it gives rise to the development of tapeworm in the alimentary canal. They can be killed by the meat being thoroughly well cooked throughout. There are various diseases of an acute infectious nature and malignant type, such, particularly, as rinder- pest, anthrax, and pleuropneumonia, to which animals are subject. Can the meat of animals that have been thus affected be eaten without producing injurious con- sequences? The idea of it is repulsive, and, strangely, the answer to the question cannot be given in such a manner as our notions might lead us to expect. The con- flicting opinions of various persons on this point show the amount of uncertainty that exists with regard to it. It has been suggested that the prevalence of boils and carbuncles may be attributable to the unconscious con- sumption of meat from diseased animals, and plenty of statistics have been adduced in support of this view. A TREATISE ON FOODS. 37 Looking* at the evidence before us regarding the effects of consuming meat derived from animals suffering from infectious disease, the conclusion is that some kind of subtle poison exists, and that this may become neutral- ized or destroyed by the processes of cooking and diges- tion, but why such an event should occur in some cases and not in others, is indeed difficult to understand. It is only right, however, to look upon all such meat as unsafe and unfit for human food. Tastes differ, as was shown by the Indian way of burying meat underground for months to putrefy, thus making for them a great delicacy. Fish. Fish is an important article of nourishment. A very large number of different kinds of it, both fresh- water and salt-water, are consumed, giving great variety to this kind of food. The amount that must exist in the vast waters of the oceans may also be regarded as rendering the supply inexhaustible. In some places it constitutes the whole sustenance of the people. The in- habitants of the most northern parts of Europe, Asia, and America, where it is too cold for any of the higher forms of vegetation to grow, are mainly dependent upon food of which the chief portion consists of fish derived from the sea. Although from time immemorial fish has formed an article of food, more or less consumed by most people, yet many prejudices used to exist with regard to it. The Egyptian priests were forbidden to eat fish of any kind, under the idea that it increased the sexual appetite, or that it was the cause of leprosy. For the latter reason the people were also forbidden to eat fish not covered with scales. In the writings of Moses it is stated : "Whatsoever hath fins and scales in the waters. 38 A TREATISE ON FOODS. in the seas, and the rivers, them shall ye eat — Whatso- ever hath no fins or scales in the waters, that shall be an abomination unto ye." There does not appear to be any substantial foundation, however, for the belief that formerly prevailed, as the sturgeon — a fish without scales — is now extensively eaten. The flesh of some fish is white, and that of others more or less red. The former is less stimulating and lighter to the stomach or more easy of digestion than the latter. The flesh of these fish contain but little fat, as the following analysis will show. The fat existing in the animal is especially accumulated in the liver, and in the cod-fish particularly, when in season, the liver is enormously gorged with oil. Composition of White Fish. Nitrogenous matter 18. i Fat 2.9 Saline matter 1.0 Water 78.00 100.00 The flesh of salmon particularly presents a strong contrast in color to the white fish considered above. It approaches meat in redness, and is regarded as approach- ing it also more closely than other fish in sustaining properties. Fatty matter is incorporated with the muscu- lar fibres, and there is also a layer of superficial fat beneath the skin. This is more abundant in the abdomi- nal or thinner than in the dorsal or thicker part of the animal — hence the richer flavor, and thereby the prefer- ence given to the former for eating. a treatise on foods. 39 Composition of Salmon. Nitrogenous matter 16. i Fat 5-5 Saline matter 1.4 Water 77.00 100.00 The mackerel, eel, herring, sprat, are other fish char- acterized by the presence of fatty matter incorporated with the flesh. Thus it is that these fish are richer and less suited to a delicate stomach than the white fish. The eel especially is rich in fat, as is shown by the follow- ing analysis : Composition of Eels. Nitrogenous matter 9.9 Fat 13.8 Saline matter 1.3 Water 75. 00 100.00 Shell Fish. Shell fish are derived from both the crustacean and molluscous tribes of animals. They yield a less nutritive kind of food than that which has been already considered, but must nevertheless be looked upon as holding a position of considerable importance in an alimentary point of view. Shell fish, taken altogether, are more indigestible and apt to upset the stomach than other kinds of animal food. They frequently produce urgent symptoms of derangement. Sometimes the symp- toms are those of gastro-intestinal irritation, as, for instance, nausea, vomiting, colic, cramps, and purging. 40 A TREATISE ON FOODS. Sometimes an eruptive disorder of the skin, and more particularly nettle-rash, is induced. So strong, indeed, is the tendency in some for such affection of the skin to be developed, that it is found necessary to scrupulously exclude shell fish from the diet. The Crustaceans commonly eaten consist of the lob- ster, crab. crawfish, shrimp, and prawn. They are all _ irded as choice articles of food. The flesh belonging to them is white and firm. COMPOSl HON OF THE EDIBLE PORTIONS OF THE LOBSTER. Flesh Soft Intenal Spawn Substance Nitrogenous matter 10.170 ir.140 21 - Fatty matter 1.170 1-444 8*234 Mineral matter 1.823 1.740 i.< - Non-nitrogenous matter and loss, 1.219 0.354 4-s 5 Water 76.618 84.313 62 $3 100.000 100.000 100.000 The lobster occupies, a higiier position in public esti- mation than the crab. The flesh of the two is much alik^ the flavor is different, that of the lobster being the more delicate, and apparently the least likely to agree. The female or hen lobster, as it is called, is in al request for making sauce, for the sake of the iwn or eggs belonging to it. They arc attached beneath the tail, and consist of little round bodies. They are black in their natural state, but become a bright red on boiling. They are pounded and mixed with the sauce, and thus give it after boiling the desired red color, as well as some amount of flavor. There is another part within the animal which becomes of a bright red on A TREATISE ON POODS. 41 boiling. This is called the coral. It consists of the ovary, and is generally used for garnishing. The flesh of the lobster is mainly found in the tail and claws. That of the claws is more tender, delicate, and digestible that! that of the tail, which is firmer and closer. Oysters. Oysters have always held a high rank amongst the lovers of good feeding. They are found on various parts oi the coast, and are caught by dredging, hut instead of being consumed at once they are trans- ferred to oyster beds in shallow waters for the purpose of being "fattened." Here they quickly undergo a marked increase in size, become more plump, and im- prove in flavor. Oysters are a nutritious kind of food. Different opinions, however, prevail regarding their digestibility. Seeing, though, how often they can be borne without inconvenience by a delicate stomach,- it may be concluded that they arc not difficult to dispose of, and especially when it is considered that from the manner in which they are usually eaten, viz., without being masti- cated, they are rarely swallowed in as favorable state for digestion as other kinds of food. By many the whole animal is eaten, while those who are dainty over them remove the outer fringed part or beard which constitutes the gills. Of the remainder there is a soft and a some- what hard portion. The former consists mainly of liver, which in this animal is a very bulky organ. The latter is composed of the adductor muscle, which served to connect the two shells together. It forms by far the most indigestible part of the oyster, and should be carefully rejected where any weakness of stomach exists.- Oysters are more digestible in the raw than in the cooked state. 4: A TRKAT1SK ON FOODS. Cooking", whether by grilling, scalloping', or stewing. coagulates and hardens them, and thereby renders them more difficult of solution in the stomach. Composition of Oysters. Nitrogenous matter 1 4.010 Fatty matter 1.513 Saline matter 2.695 Non-nitrogenous matter and loss. 1.395 Watei 80, ;S> 1 00 . 000 sete. Musse - gely, Hiey subjected to a prepai cess ' c toking, usu hv stewing in their own liquor. There Is a little tongue- like, hardish, dark-colored mass belonging- to them, which is generally picked out, under the SUpp - . thai it is to use as food. Composition of Mussels, Nitrogenous matter 1 Fatty matter Saline matter X on -nitrogenous matter and loss Water 4- 39 74 100 00 EGGS. Eggs necessarily c titain all thai is required ; r the construction the body, as the young annual is de- veloped from it, ' as ..1 >Ul acre: >fore, the - must be take account a- well as its contents. Dui A TKKATISK ON POODS. 43 the process of incubation, in fact, the earthy matter of the shell becomes gradually dissolved and applied to the purposes of growth. Phosphoric acid, formed by the gradual oxidation of phosphorus, constitutes the solvent agent, and the shell is found to become progressively thinner and thinner, until at last it should be no thicker than a sheet of letter paper. Various eggs are eaten, in- cluding those of reptiles as, for instance, the turtle — -as well as birds; but it is especially the egg" of the fowl which is employed as a general article of food, and to this the succeeding remarks are intended to refer. Composition of the Entire Contents or- the Egg. Nitrogenous matter 14.0 Fatty matter 10.5 Saline matter 1.5 Water 74.00 100.00 Composition of the White of Egg. Nitrogenous matter 20.4 Fatty matter Saline matter 1.6 Water 78 00 100 00 Composition of the Yolk of Egg. Nitrogenous matter 16.0 Fatty matter 30.7 Saline matter 1.3 Water 52.00 100.00 44 A TREATISE ON FOODS. The white of the egg, as shown by the above analysis, contains a considerably larger proportion of water than the yolk. It contains no fatty matter, but consists mainly of albumen in a dissolved state, and inclosed within very thin-walled cells. It is this arrangement which gives to the white of egg its ropy, gelatinous state. Thoroughly shaking or beating it up with water breaks the cells and removes the ropy state. The yolk of the egg forms a kind of yellow emulsion. All fatty matter of the egg is accumulated in this portion of it, and it here amounts to as much as thirty (30) per cent. The fat is held in suspension or emulsified by the aluminous matter of the yolk, which constitutes a slight modification of that of the white, and is called vitellin. The yolk contains relatively a less proportion of nitrog- enous matter than the white. The proportion of solid matter, on account of the fat, is considerably greater. An enveloping membrane or bag surrounds the yolk, and keeps the fluid matter, of which it is composed, together. Being lighter than the white, it floats to that portion of the egg which is uppermost, but is kept in position between the two extremities by two processes of inspis- sated albumen, called chalazae, which pass and are at- tached — one to either end of the egg. The quality of eggs varies according to the food upon which the fowl is kept. Certain articles of food communicate a distinct flavor to the egg. In an alimentary point of view, therefore, the white and yolk differ markedly from each other, the one being mainly a simple solution of albumen, the other a solution of a modified form of albumen associated with a consid- A TREATISE ON FOODS. 45 erable quantity of fat. Reckoning the weight of an egg at two ounces, and that one-tenth of this consists of shell the contents will furnish the following amounts of dry constituents, the percentage composition given above being taken as the basis of calculation : Dry Constituents of the Contents of an Egg. Nitrogenous matter no grains Fatty matter 82 " Saline matter n " Total solid matter 203 " Raw and lightly boiled eggs are easy of digestion. The hard boiled egg offers considerable resistance to gastric solution, and exerts a constipating action on the bowels. The egg" changes by keeping, and certain de- vices are practiced to preserve its freshness. The shell, being porous, allows of the evaporation of fluid, and air accumulates in its place at one of the extremities. Thus, an egg under exposure to the air loses weight from day to day, and the diminution in density indicates the length of time it has been kept. For example, a solution of salt in the proportion of about ten per cent — that is, one ounce of salt in ten ounces of water, — will just allow a fresh egg to sink, while one which has been kept several days will swim. Bad eggs become sufficiently light to float even in pure water. The air which finds its way through the pores of the shell into the egg causes gradual decomposition, until ultimately a state of putrescence is attained. With the view of excluding the air eggs are sometimes placed in lime water, and other heavy solutions. The shell is also 46 A TREATISE ON FOODS. sometimes covered with a layer of lard, wax and oil or some other kind of fatty matter, and sometimes with a gum. By packing in bran, salt, or some such material, they keep long-er than they otherwise would do, but it must be remembered that eggs easily acquire a taste from that which surrounds them. Immersed for some hours in a solution of salt, some of the saline matter penetrates and tends to preserve the egg under subsequent exposure to the air. Fresh eggs are usually known by their translucency when held up to the light. . By keeping they become cloudy, and when decidedly stale a distinct, dark, cloud- like appearance is discernable opposite some portion of the shell. Egg testers are cheap and usually made to fit an ordinary lamp chimney. Eggs are sometimes noticed to break spontaneously on being boiled. This occurs when the egg is suddenly immersed in a largish quantity of boiling water. The sudden expansion of the contents produced by the heat causes the shell to give way. Im- mersed in a small quantity of water only, the temperature is lowered sufficiently to prevent any immediate extensive, expansion, and then with the subsequent gradual eleva- tion of the temperature, time is given for a little fluid to be forced through the pores of the shell from the pressure within, and, perhaps, for the shell itself to undergo some expansion. A stale egg is less likely to become broken in this way than a fresh one, on account of the air which has replaced the evaporated fluid admitting easily of compression. Egg Shells. In the Materia Medica of the Homeop- athic school of medicine, the egg shell, known as ova A TREATISE ON FOODS. 47 testa, is triturated with sugar of milk and made into powders and tablets for the relief of certain disorders of a functional nature. The up-to-date doctor of medicine with a full and complete analysis of eg'g-yolk substances says thus : Brain-matter; Egg-yolk, and Seminal, fluid consist of: Water, Fats, Protagon, Cholesterin, Nuclein, Cerebrin, Lecithin, Minerals. Also, says this up-to-date gentleman, egg-yellow contains an albuminoid called "vitellin," which is closely related to the albuminoid of blood (globulin) ; and contains also a ferruginous nuclein called "hematogen" (blood pro- ducing) discovered by Professor Bunge, of Germany. Its other constituents are protagon, lecithin, fats, choles- terin, cerebrin, and phosphates, in which it is rich; also sulphates and traces of iron. The chemical constitution of generative substance is also represented by albuminoids, lecithin, cerebrin, chlo- esterin, fats, phosphates and sulphates. And, besides, the relative proportions of the constituents of the fore- going substances are respectively very similar, only that the brain and tgg yolk are richer in fats and the other in phosphorized proteids. Therefore, eggs constitute the best and brainiest food for father and mother and child before and after con- ception and birth. 48 A TREATISE ON FOODS. MILK. Milk, an article furnished and intended by nature as the sole food for the young* of a certain class of animals, necessarily contains, like eggs, all the elements that are required for the growth and maintenance of the body. Holding" the position it does, it may be justly regarded as the type of an alimentary substance. Good milk is a homogeneous opaquely white or very faintly buff-tinted liquid, which is entirely free from any viscidity, and undergoes no change on being heated. It has a sweet taste, and a slightly perceptible agreeable odor. Its reaction is almost neutral instead of tending either towards acid or alkaline, when in a natural state and at the moment of removal. A little later an acid character becomes perceptible, and is evidently due to the effect of change after removal. Its density varies, but, 1030 may be looked upon as about the average in the case of cow's milk. Although appearing homogeneous to the naked eye, it in reality consists, as is shown by micro- scopic examination, of a clear liquid holding in suspen- sion a multitude of little particles or globules, which con- stitute the cause of its opacity. These globules are of a fatty nature, and, being lighter than the surrounding- liquid, gradually rise to the surface, and form the cream which collects at the top of milk that is allowed to re- pose. The ingredients of milk consist of: Nitrogenous matter, Fatty matter, Lactin, or sugar of milk, Mineral matter and Water. A TREATISE ON FOODS. 49 The nitrogenous matter is chiefly composed of casein, a principle which, unlike albumen, is not coagulated by heat, but is coagulable by acids, organic as well as min- eral, and also by the neutral organic substance obtainable from the stomach, familiar to everyone as pepsin, which forms the active principle of rennet. It is casein which constitutes curd and the basis of cheese. It is thrown down, carrying with it in an entangled state the sus- pended fatty globules, not only by the addition of the agents mentioned, but as a result of the spontaneous change which milk undergoes upon exposure to the air. The cause of this spontaneous coagulation is the develop- ment of lactic acid by a fermentative transformation of the lactin. As is well known warmth greatly favors this change, and it does so to such an extent that during the hot weather of summer milk very quickly passes into a coagulated or curdled state. Contact with the smallest quantity of milk that has undergone the change also rapidly induces curdling throughout the whole bulk. Hence arises the necessity, as has been found by ex- perience, of exercising the most scrupulous care in secur- ing the utmost cleanliness of vessels used for the purpose of storage. It may further be mentioned that at the commencement of the change an amount of lactic acid may have been generated insufficient to curdle the milk at the ordinary temperature, but sufficient to do so at a greater heat, because the action of the acid is then more energetic. This accounts for the circumstance frequently noticed in the home, that milk may be liquid, and ap- parently fresh, at the ordinary temperature, and yet shall curdle upon being boiled. 50 A TREATISE ON FOODS. Besides casein, milk contains a little albumen, and a third nitrogeneous principle in small amount, which has been named lactoprotein. The fatty matter constitutes butter. While existing in the milk it is suspended, as has been already men- tioned, under the form of microscopic globules. These globules appear to be surrounded by an envelope of casein or albuminoid matter, which becomes broken in the process of churning for the production of butter, so allowing the incorporation of the fatty matter to occur. It is seemingly on account of this envelope that ether fails to dissolve out the fat when simply shaken up with milk; for if a small quantity of an alkali, as for instance potash, which may be presumed to dissolve the envelopes, be previously added, then ether immediately takes up the fat, leaving a clear watery liquid, consisting of the casein, etc., lactin, and salts. Lactiu forms one of the varieties of sugar, and re- mains dissolved in the liquid from which both the curd and butter may have been separated. It has a less sweet taste, and is less soluable in water than ordinary sugar, is nearly insoluable in alcohol and ether, readily crystal- lizes, and reduces the cupro-potassic solution like grape sugar, but is not directly susceptible of alcoholic fer- mentation. Alone it forms a staple compound, but in contact with decomposing nitrogenous matter it under- goes conversion into lactic acid, which accounts for the sourness that milk acquires on keeping. The mineral matter and water comprise the inorganic principles required for the purposes of life. A TREATISE ON FOODS. 51 According to competent analyses, cow's milk con- tains 14 per cent of solid matter, which is distributed as follows : Composition of Cow's Milk. Nitrogenous matter 4. 1 Fatty matter 3.9 Lactin 5.2 Saline matter 0.8 Water 86.00 100.00 One pint of milk of the above composition, reckoned at a sp. gr. of 1030, which will give 9012 grains as its weight, will contain the following amounts of the several solid constituents, represented in grains and ounces : Solid Constituents in One Pint of Milk. Grains Ounces Nitrogenous matter 369 0.843 Fatty matter 351 0.802 Lactin 468 1.069 Saline matter 72 0.164 Total solid matter, 1.260 2.878 The milk of the cow most closely approximates to that of woman, but it is rather more highly charged with each kind of solid constituent. Next follows the milk of the goat, which, taken altogether, is again rather richer. That of the sheep is characterized by its marked richness in nitrogenous matter and butter. The milk of the ass and mare presents a striking difference from the rest. The peculiarity consists of the small amounts of nitrogenous matter and butter, and the large amount 52 A TRKATISK ON FOODS. of lactin or sugar. The milk of the mare forms the higher representative of this peculiarity of the two, and so large is the amount of sugar contained in it that in Tartary it is fermented and converted into a spirituous liquor which is known by the name of koumiss. Asses' milk is well known to form a most useful aliment for persons too delicate in health to bear cow's milk. Its prominent characters as an article of food are sweetness of taste and facility of digestion. It is said, however, to' have the objection of being sometimes apt to occasion diarrhoea. With reference to the casein, it is stated that the coagulum or curd of woman's milk is "in general some- what gelatinous, and not so dense or solid as that of cow's milk, and, therefore, more easily digested by the child's stomach." Evidence is not wanting to show, as might be antici- pated, that the quality of the milk is influenced by the nature of the food. It has been clearly ascertained that an insufficient diet quickly leads to an impoverishment in solid material. It is nothing more than might be ex- pected that to maintain the milk in good condition, a proper and sufficient diet must be supplied; and in the case of the cow, no food is considered equal to that which is yielded by the fresh pasture of country fields, the plants of which give a richness, sweetness, and agree- able aroma, which cannot be supplied by any other mode of feeding. There are certain products and modifications of milk, as cream, skimmed milk, buttermilk, curds, whey, butter and cheese, which now require consideration. A TREATISE ON FOODS. S3 Cream. Cream consists mainly of the fatty matter of milk, which, by virtue of its lightness, rises to the surface, the milk being allowed to repose for some time for the purpose. It contains some of the watery liquid part of the milk which holds in solution the other con- stituents. The composition of cream will necessarily vary a great deal according to its purity. Composition of Cream. Nitrogenous matter 2.7 Fatty matter 26.7 Lectin 2. 8 Saline matter 1.8 Water 66.00 100.00 Skimmed Milk is the residue of milk from which cream has been collected. It is simply milk deprived of a certain amount of its fatty constituent. Being less rich than ordinary milk, it sometimes forms a useful aliment for a weak stomach. Composition of Skimmed Milk. Nitrogenous matter 4.0 Fatty matter 1.8 Lactin 5.4 Saline matter 0.8 Water 88.00 100.00 Buttermilk. When butter is prepared directly from milk a thin residuary liquid is yielded, which is known by the name of buttermilk. It contains a less amount of 54 A TREATISE ON FOODS. fatty matter than skimmed milk. Mixed with other food it is by no means an insignificant article of nourish- ment, containing as it does, the nitrogenous matter, sugar, saline matter, and a small portion of the fatty matter of the milk. Composition of Buttermilk. Nitrogenous matter 4. 1 Fatty matter 0.7 Lactin 6.4 Saline matter 0.8 Water 88.00 100.00 Curd. The essential basis of curd is casein; but, as this principle undergoes coagulation during the trans- formation of milk into curds and whey, it entangles and carries with it the suspended milk globules. Curd, there- fore, consists of the nitrogenous portion of milk mixed with the chief part of its fatty element. It constitutes the basis of cheese. Whey. This forms the opalescent liquid left from the separation of the curd; it contains the lactin and salts of the milk, and likewise retains a little casein and fatty matter. It is of some value but not much, in an alimentary point of view. BUTTER. Butter is the fatty portion of milk, and is obtained by the process of churning, either cream or the milk itself being subjected to the operation. The effect of churn- ing is to cause the milk globules to run together or A TREATISE ON FOODS. 55 coalesce, and thus to become incorporated into a solid mass. This is supposed to be brought about by the mechanical rupture, in the first place, of the envelopes of the globules, the contents of which are then permitted to become agglomerated ; and, it is found by experience that the process is facilitated by being conducted at a temper- ature of about sixty degrees Fahrenheit. When the butter is formed it is removed from the churn and well kneaded and washed with water, to remove as much as possible of adhering casein and other ingredients of the milk, and the more completely this is effected the better will the butter afterwards keep. More or less salt is added to promote still further its power of keeping, and to suit the different tastes of its consumers. The pure fatty matter of butter is composed of a mixture of several fatty principles. Six of them are enumerated below: Margarin, Olein, Caprylin, Butyrin, Caprin, Caproin. These are neutral fats, and are resolvable into glycerin and margaric, oleic, caprylic, butyric, capric, and caproic acids respectively: the first two acids being of a fixed, and the last four of a volatile nature. It is to the latter agents that the characteristic taste and smell of butter are due, although they are present only in small amount. Fresh butter, especially in hot weather, is very prone to undergo change, and in the course of a short time to 56 A TREATISE ON FOODS. become rancid. This arises from the nitrogenous matter of the milk with which the butter is impregnated acting as a ferment, and leading to the liberation of the fatty acids. The more completely butter is deprived of this adventitious matter by washing, the better is it found afterwards to keep. Butter is a form of fatty matter less likely than most others to disagree with the stomach. This applies to butter in a perfectly fresh or unchanged state: when rancid it is very likely to occasion gastric derangement. Cheese consists of the casein of milk with a varying admixture of butter, according to the manner in which it has been prepared. The casein is coagulated usually by the employment of rennet, but sometimes by the agency of an acid. In being precipitated the casein en- tangles and carries with it the suspended fat-globules (butter) of the milk. After coagulation has been effected the curd is collected and subjected to pressure in moulds, to deprive it. as far as possible, of the liquid portion of the milk, or whey. Fatty matter gives softness and rich- ness to cheese, but. at the same time, renders it more prone to change and decay on keeping-. It is the poor and close cheese, such as is made from skimmed milk, which is found to keep the best. Composition of Cheese. Nitrogenous matter 33.5 Fatty matter 24.3 Saline matter 5.4 Water 36. So 100.00 a treatise on foods. 57 Composition of Skim Cheese. Nitrogenous matter 44.8 Fatty matter 6.3 Saline matter 4.9 Water 44.00 100.00 On account of its richness in nitrogenous matter cheese constitutes an article of considerable dietetic value. Amongst the poorer inhabitants of rural districts it enters as an important aliment into the daily diet, serv- ing to supply the nitrogen which is deficient in the bread or other kind of vegetable food which is employed as the staple article of subsistence. Vegetable Alimentary Substances. Although vegetable substances differ so much phy- sicially, and in some respects, also, chemically, from the components of animal beings, they are susceptible of con- version into those components, and, alone, contain all that is absolutely requisite for the support of animal life. A more complex elaborating system, however, is re- quired to fit them for appropriation than is the case with animal substances, and accordingly it is found that the digestive organs of the herbivora are developed upon a larger and higher scale than these of the carnivora. The vegetable products that form even common articles of food are exceedingly varied and numerous. To attempt to arrange them under any strict classification would only lead to embarrassment, and often involve practical inconvenience. It will be sufficient for the pur- 58 A TREATISE ON FOODS. poses of description to distribute them into the follow- ing general groups : Farinaceous seeds, Oleaginous seeds, Tubers and roots, Herbaceous articles, Saccharine and Farinaceous preparations. Farinaceous Seeds. These rank first in importance amongst vegetable alimentary products. They are alike plentifully yielded, of easy digestion, and of high nutritive value. It is not surprising, therefore, to find that the farinaceous seeds form the largest and most widely consumed portion of our vegetable food. Of the farinaceous seeds, those as wheat, oats, barley, rye, rice, corn, etc., derived from the cerealia — a tribe of grasses, take the first place as articles of food; and next follow those derived from the leguminosoe, or pulse tribe, as, for instance, peas, beans, and lentils. Some other farinaceous seeds will be mentioned as employed, but they are of far less signifi- cance in an alimentary point of view. The Cerealia. The various cereal grains agree in their general com- position, but differences exist in the relative amounts of the constituent principles, which give them different de- grees of alimentary value. The principles enumerated are : 1st. Nitrogenous compounds, consisting of gluten, albumen, casein, and fibrin, with an active principle, chiefly encountered in the cortical part of the grain, A TREATISE ON FOODS. 59 which, like diastase, possesses the power of converting starch into sugar. The material known as gluten, as will be more particularly mentioned further on, com- prises a mixture of gluten, casein, and fibrin. 2nd. Non-nitrogenous substances, as starch, dex- trin, sugar, and cellulose. 3rd. Fatty matter, including a volatile oil, which constitutes the source of the odorous quality possessed by the grain. 4th. Mineral substances, comprising phosphates of lime and magnesia, salts of potash and soda, and silica. Oats are rich in nitrogenous matter, fat, and salts. Corn contains a fair amount of nitrogenous matter, but is poor in salts. Corn further stands out from all the rest by virtue of the large amount of fatty matter present. Barley occupies a mean position with reference to all the constituents. Rice is characterized by richness in starch, and poorness in nitrogenous matter, fatty matter and salts. The knowledge thus supplied is of considerable value in relation to the employment of the several kinds of grain as articles of food. WHEAT. Wheat may be said to form the most useful article of the vegetable foods, and hence it is one of the most ex- tensively and widely cultivated of the cereal grains As supplied for use, wheat consists of the grain deprived of the husk with which it was originally invested. Each grain is composed of a hard, colored, tegumentary por- tion, and a central, easily pulverizable, white substance, which yields the product constituting flour. 60 A TREATISE ON FOODS. The teg'umentary portion consists, externally, of an exceedingly hard layer, which is of a dense, ligneous nature, and so coherent that it presents itself under the form of scales when wheat is subjected to the ordinary process of grinding. This constitutes the greater bulk of bran. The central white portion of the grain is chiefly composed of starch ; but nitrogenous, fatty, and saline matters are all present also, to some extent. The nitrogenous matter consists of several principles. There is albumen, mucin or casein, fibrin, and glutin. What is called gluten — the ductile, tenacious, raw material left when flour is kneaded with water, and afterwards washed to remove the starch — does not represent a simple or pure nitrogenous principle. The albumen of the flour is not present in it. This latter principle, being soluble in water, is carried away with the starch in the process of washing. It has often been said that the external part of the grain is richer than the central in nitrogenous matter. This remark, however, is not to be taken as applying to gluten. Gluten, indeed, preponderates in the central farinaceous part, the nitrogenous matter of the exterior being prin- cipally composed of vegetable fibrin. It is to gluten — and this exists to a special extent in wheat — that wheaten flour owes its aptitude for being made into bread. This substance, by virtue of its tenacity, and its susceptibility of solidification by heat, is capable of entangling gas generated or incorporated amongst it, and then becoming fixed in such a manner as to furnish a light, spongy, or porous article, like well-made bread. Medium wheat usually yields from 7:2 to 80 per cent of good flour, and from 5 to 10 per cent of bran. Below are two analvses of flour which differ a trifle : a treatise on foods. 61 Composition of Flour. Nitrogenous matter 10.8 14-45 Carbohydrates 70.5 68.48 Fatty matter 2.0 1.25 Mineral matter 1.7 1.60 Water 15.00 14.22 100.00 100.00 The amount of gluten in wheaten flour ranges from 8 to 15 per cent, the average being about 11 per cent. Bread. Of all the articles of vegetable food, bread must be considered as the most important to us. It con- stitutes a product of art, and amongst all civilized people the process of manufacture is known and put into prac- tice, evidently on account of the favorable state in which the elements of food are placed for undergoing digestion. It is only from some kinds of grain that bread can be made, and no bread is equal to that prepared from wheaten flour. The amount of gluten present, for which this kind of grain is distinguished, gives it the property for yielding a light and spongy form of bread ; and it is to this lightness or sponginess that bread owes its easy digestibility; for, according to its porosity, so is the facil- ity with which it is penetrated and acted upon by the secretion of the stomach. The first requisite towards the manufacture of bread is that the grain should be reduced to a pulverized condition. By the ordinary process it is ground in a whole state and converted into meal. This may be used for making bread — as is the case in what we call "brown bread" — but, as a rule, the flour is separated, and this only employed. 62 A TREATISE ON FOODS. Bread is a firm and porous substance, which is easy of mastication and which, while preserving a certain amount of moisture, is not wet or clammy. To convert flour or meal into a substance of this kind constitutes the art of bread-making-. A paste or dough is made by manipu- lation, either by kneading with the hands or by machinery, with the requisite quantity of water. Porosity is given by intimate incorporation with carbonic acid gas — either generated within, as by fermentation, or the use of one or other form of "baking powder;" or may be supplied from without by another process. The gluten present, by virtue of its tenacity, holds the vesicles of gas and allows a spongy mass to be formed. While in this state, solidification is effected by the aid of heat applied in the process of baking, and thus is formed a permanently vesiculated or porous article. Such in a few words con- stitutes the rationale of the process of bread-making. The usual practice in making bread by fermentation is to mix a certain quantity of the flour with the ferment, some salt, and lukewarm water. These are kneaded into a stiff paste or dough, which is placed aside in a warm situation for some hours usually. The mass gradually swells up, from the evolution of carbonic acid gas, or, as it is generally termed "the sponge rises." When the sponge is in active fermentation it is thoroughly kneaded with the remainder of the flour, salt, and water, and again set aside for a time in a warm situation. Fermen- tation extends throughout the whole, and at the proper moment the dough is made into loaves and introduced into the oven. Herein constitutes one of the chief points in the baker's art. Unless fermentation has been allowed A TREATISE ON FOODS. 63 to proceed far enough, a heavy loaf is the result; and if allowed to proceed too far, an objectionable quality of bread is the result, caused by the commencement of further fermentation. Time also must not be allowed for the loaves to sink before being baked. Under the in- fluence of the heat of the oven an expansion of the en- tangled vesicles of gas ensues, and occasions a consid- erable further rising of the dough ; and, with the sub- sequent setting of the substance of the loaf a permanently vesiculated mass is formed. In average practice, 100 pounds of flour will make about 140 pounds of bread. The art of the baker, how- ever, is to increase this quantity, and he does it by hard- ening the gluten through the agency of a little alum, or by means of a gummy mixture of boiled rice, three or four pounds of which, when boiled for two or three hours in as many gallons of water, make a sack of flour yield far more than it otherwise should. An evaporation of water occurs, and causes bread to lose weight on keep- ing. The loss proceeds most actively while hot from the oven. Composition of Bread. Nitrogenous matter 8.1 Carbohydrates 51.0 Fat matter 1.6 Mineral matter 2.3 Water 37-oo 100.00 Biscuits. Biscuits are a useful wheaten product, on account of their property of keeping, which is owing to 64 A TREATISE ON FOODS. their being dried as well as baked. Some biscuits are made from flour and water only, or flour, water, and a very little butter to diminish the hard and flinty char- acter which they otherwise possess. Other biscuits are made with the addition of milk, and some with the ad- dition of sugar also; and lightness may be given either by a baking powder or the carbonate of ammonia, which, being a volatile salt, is dissipated with the heat of the oven, and in escaping raises the dough. There are also various fancy biscuits, each kind containing, in addition to the ordinary ingredients, some special article. Plain biscuits constitute an easily digestible form of food. Stale biscuits, on being moistened and rebaked, are restored, as is stale bread, to nearly the condition of new. Composition of Biscuits. Nitrogenous matter 1 5. 6 Carbohydrates 73.4 Fatty matter 1.3 Mineral matter 1.7 Water 8.00 100.00 OATS. The common oat is derived from the avena saliva. A considerable number of varieties of the plant are culti- vated, yielding oats, which may be arranged under the two heads of white oats, and red, dun, or black oats. As met with in commerce, oats consist of the seeds in- closed in their husks. The husk amounts to nearly thirty (30) per cent, the remainder comprises the kernel of the seed. Oatmeal constitutes the product of grinding A TREATISE ON FOODS. 65 the kiln-dried seeds, deprived of their husk, or outer skin. It is not so white as wheaten flour, and its taste is peculiar. Composition of Oatmeal. Nitrogenous matter 12.6 Carbohydrates 63.8 Fatty matter 5.6 Saline matter 3.0 Water 15.00 100.00 Composition of Dried Oats. Nitrogenous matter J4-39 Starch 60.59 Dextrin, etc 9.25 Fatty matter 5.50 Cellulose 7.06 Mineral matter 3.25 100.00 The nitrogenous matter of the oat is formed chiefly of a principle allied to casein, called avenin. On account of the absence of gluten, oatmeal cannot be vesiculated and made into bread, like wheaten flour. It is devoid of the tenacity of adhesiveness which is requisite to hold the vesicles of gas and give porosity or lightness to the mass. It is, however, made into thin cakes, by mixing into a paste with water, and then baking on an iron plate. Oats form an important and valuable article of food. With a proportion of nitrogenous matter which bears a favorable comparison with that of wheat, they stand next to corn amongst the cultivated cereals in the amount of 66 A TREATISE ON FOODS. fatty matter present. The percentage of saline matter is also high. BARLEY. Barley is obtained from several species of hordeuui, the favorite being hordeum disticJwn, or common summer barley, of which several varieties are cultivated. It is met with in commerce as a grain, inclosed in the husk. The product, when whole grain is ground, forms barley meal. Composition of Barley Meal. Nitrogenous matter 6.3 Carbohydrates 74.3 Fatty matter 2.4 Saline matter 2.0 Water 15-00 100.00 The nitrogenous matter of barley exists under the form of albumen and casein. There is little or no gluten, and hence, like oatmeal, it cannot be made into a vesicu- lated bread. Barley bread is, therefore, usually made by mixing wheaten flour with the meal. Malt is the product yielded when barley has been allowed to germinate, and the germination has been stopped at a certain point by subjecting the grain to heat on a kiln. As a result of the process, a peculiar active nitrogenous principle, called diastase, is developed, which has the power of effecting the conversion of starch into dextrin and sugar; and through this, malt differs from barley in a portion of the starch being represented by sugar. Malt infused in hot water yields Sweet- wort, A TREATISE ON FOODS. 67 which is rich in saccharine matter. Phis is used for making B for cattle. making Beer. Malt is also used to some extent as a food RYE. The common rye, or secale cereale, is extensively cul- tivated. It is of a hardy nature, and is usually sown in ground where the soil is too poor for wheat to grow. The lightest of sandy soils will produce fair returns in rye and rye straw, even though not fertilized. In external appearance the rye grain presents a closer resemblance to wheat than any of the other cereals. It is, however, darker in color and smaller in size. In the center the grain is white and farinaceous, but towards the exterior it is brownish. As met with in commerce, it is deprived of the husk, as in the case of wheat. It is ground and used under the form of rye-meal. Composition of Rye Meal. Nitrogenous matter 8.0 Carbohydrates 73.2 Fatty matter 2.0 Saline matter 1.8 Water i5-oo 100.00 Composition of Dried Rye. Nitrogenous matter 12.50 Starch 64.65 Dextrin, etc. H-90 Fatty matter 2.25 Cellulose 3. 10 Mineral matter 2.60 100.00 68 A TREATISE ON FOODS. The nitrogenous matter of the rye consists of fibrin, gluten, and albumen. From the nature of its nitrogenous matter, rye approaches reaver to wheat than the other cereal gTains in the aptitude of its flour for making a vesiculated ' rea Rye bread is c nsi leral U I a si '. in Belgium, Holland, Prussia, German)' and Russia Rye bread tails but little short of wheaten bread in nutritive value, [ts rand. LSte, however, render it no: I the Liking se who are unaccusl m< I it as at times .. laxative action. Rye is used for n and by distillers. cereals arc sul jecl bee me the sea: of growth of parasitic Fungus, which gives to the grain deleter properties: and. of all i n, rye is the mosl prone : i :ked in this way. The affected grain underg es devel tent, so as tc project c ably beyond the husk, and : upwards of four times its s ite. On account of this excessive growth, it can be - by sifting from the inl- and, unless this is done to an erg crop, sei - ns< uences ma m its consump- tion as f is nes tants - of the Old World have beer with fatal illness from this cause. Two classes of symp- ms are produced, denominated the ve and g s forms of In the one. the phenomena s - of weariness, giddiness, contraction of the muscles of the extremeties, Eormication, dimness of sigl . ss ; sensibility, voracious appetite, yellow countenance. and convulsions, followed by : in the other, there is also formication, that is, a feeling as if insects were A TREATISE ON FOODS. <> ( > creeping over the skin, and voracious appetite, and with this there occur coldness and insensibility of the ex- tremities, followed by gangrene. A fluid extract of ergot is extensively used by physicians. CORN. The common maize, or corn, is a native of tropical America, and is now extensively cultivated in many other countries the world over. The grains of corn are variously colored, but those most commonly met with are yellow. The ears when nearly full-grown are a favorite delicacy, when they are boiled and the grain eaten with salt and butter. A small variety of corn, with translucent and deeply colored grains is known as pop corn. This possesses the property, when gently roasted, of bursting, turning- inside out, and swelling to many times the original size, in which condition it is eaten with a little salt, or dipped in a sweet solution. Maize or corn meal is not adapted for making bread, on account of its deficiency in gluten, without the ad- mixture of wheaten or rye flour. The common brown bread of New England is made from a mixture of rye and corn meal. Used alone, corn meal, like oatmeal and barley meal, is made into a cake, and this when roasted or fried has a variety of names, johnny-cake, hoe-cake, pone, or Indian bread. Composition of Corn Meal. Nitrogenous matter 1 1 . i Carbohydrates 65. 1 70 A TREATISE ON FOODS. Fatty matter 8. i Saline matter 1.7 Water 14.00 100.00 Composition of Dried Corn. Nitrogenous matter 12.50 Starch 67.55 . Dextrin, etc 4.00 Fatty matter 8. So Cellulose 5.90 Mineral matter 1. 25 100.00 While containing an average amount of nitrogenous matter, corn is characterized and distinguished, as is shown by the above analyses, from the other cerealia by the large amount of fatty matter present. As regards this quality, none of the other cerealia exhibit a close approach to it. On account of the fatty matter present, corn acquires, on keeping for some time, an unpleasant rancid taste, from the usual change induced by exposure to the air. Containing as it does, about the same per- centage of nitrogenous matter as soft wheat, and up- wards of four times the amount of fatty matter, corn stands in a high position as regards alimentary value. It is largely used both for feeding and fattening- animals. Corn is destined to be fed even more, to the exclusion of oats. The Ohio Experiment Station has for some time been conducting experiments which tend to show that corn is a cheaper food for working horses than oats. It has long been the opinion of most all horsemen that A TREATISE ON FOODS. 71 oats were the best of all grains for feeding horses. Ex- periments have proved that this is a mistake and that farm horses may be fed on corn with safety and economy, and with the assurance that they are well nourished, strong and serviceable with this food judiciously used. It is shown that a large portion of the bulk of oats (see composition of oats), is the covering of the oats which is hard to digest, and is of no more food value than wheat straw. In buying oats we have to pay for this waste hull covering at the same price per pound as we pay for the kernel, while in buying whole corn we have no such waste hull of covering. The value, as a food, of corn, has not yet been sufficiently recognized by the world. The use of corn for the family is being extended now everywhere. Corn meal made into puddings, cakes, etc., is remarkably nourishing and desirable in every way. For poultry it is the farmer's standard food, though he overdoes it usually by not providing enough of a variety with the corn, for it cannot be denied that any animal thrives best with an occasional change in food. In France they have discovered that corn may replace oats in feed- ing horses, and with good results. The composition of oats and corn is very similar. With poultry it is claimed that all experiments have proved whole corn to be just as good as cracked or ground corn for feeding. RICE. The common rice, or oryza sativa, is extensively cul- tivated in warm countries. It supplies the principal food of about a third of the human race. There is a large number of varieties of the plant cultivated, and con- 72 A TREATISE ON FOODS. siderably more than one hundred different kinds are grown in India. Rice is consumed as food, both in the state of grain and ground into flour. Composition of Rice. • Nitrogenous matter 6.3 Carbohydrates 79.5 Fatty matter 0.7 Saline matter 0.5 Water 13 00 100.00 Composition of Dried Rice. Nitrogenous matter 7.55 Starch * 88.65 Dextrin, etc 1.00 Fatty matter 0.80 Cellulose 1 . 10 Mineral matter..." 0.90 100.00 Rice is characterized by the large proportion of starch, and the small proportions of nitrogenous, fatty, and mineral matter, it contains. In composition it must be looked upon as presenting considerable analogy to the potato. Rice, like the potato, is largely used for the manufacture of starch. Rice is too poor in nitrogenous matter, fatty matter, and salts, to yield alone what is wanted in an aliment, unless consumed in very large quantity, thereby sacri- ficing a considerable portion of its starch. The starch, in other words, is out of proportion to the other ali- mentary principles, looked at in relation to the require- ments of the system. Associated with other articles to compensate for the deficiency in the principles named, A TREATISE ON FOODS. 73 rice constitutes an exceedingly valuable food. It has the advantage of possessing an easily digestible starch granule, and so is found a useful aliment in disordered states of the alimentary canal. In the case of persons suffering from diarrhoea or dysentery it agrees better than any other kind of solid food. It certainly exerts no laxative action, as many of the cereals do, and is often regarded, indeed, as having an opposite effect, but it probably occupies a neutral position in this respect. Rice is best cooked by thoroughly steaming. If boiled in water it loses a portion of the already small quantity of nitrogenous and saline matter it contains. It does not admit of being made into bread, but is used mixed with wheaten flour to make very white bread. MILLET. The common millet, panicum milaceum, is a native of the East Indies, but is cultivated in many parts of the world. There is a very large number of varieties of millet, the grain of which is mostly used as food for poultry and other domestic animals. In nutritive value it ranks about equal to rice. Bl T CKWHKAT. Buckwheat, although not a cereal, may be conven- iently referred to in connection with the cereal grains. The common buckwheat is a native of Central Asia, and is said to have been introduced into Europe by the Cru- saders. The name buckwheat is a corruption of the German buchweizen (beechwheat), drawn from its re- semblance to the seed of the beech tree. The plant grows very quickly and yields abundantly, but, as it is destroyed 74 A TREATISE OX FOODS. by frost, it cannot be sown until the season for cold weather has passed. No grain is eaten so eagerly by poultry, and it is sometimes given to horses instead of oats, or in combination with them. The seed is covered with a hard rind, or thin shell, which has to be removed before it is fit for being eaten by cattle. When used for human food it is usually made into thin cakes, which are very good eating. Composition of Buckwheat. Nitrogenous matter 13.10 Starch, etc 64.90 Fatty matter 3 00 Cellulose 3.5° Mineral matter 2.50 Water 13.00 100.00 LEGUMINOUS SEEDS. This group of farinaceous seeds, which includes beans, peas, and lentils, is characterized by the large proportion of nitrogenous matter they contain. In this respect they stand strikingly in advance of the eerealia. for the amount may be twice as much as that contained in an ordinary kind of wheat. The form under which the nitrogenous matter is present is chiefly as a substance called legumin, which is a representative of vegetable casein. By virtue of their composition, the leguminous seeds possess :i high nutritive value, and furnish a food which is more satisfying than vegetable food generally to the stomach, and more closely allied in a dietetic point of view to the alimentary products supplied by the animal A TREATISE ON FOODS. 75 kingdom. They thereby furnish an advantageous sub- stitute for animal food for those who fast during lent and on other clays, and it is probably on this account that such foods are largely consumed in France and other Catholic countries. Their large amount of nitrogenous matter adapts them for consumption in association with articles in which starch or fat is a predominating prin- ciple. With rice, therefore, they form an appropriate combination, this admixture being a staple food in many places. As a drawback to their high nutritive value, the leguminous seeds must be ranked as difficult of digestion. They require prolonged boiling to render them tender and digestible. They are apt, besides lying heavy on the stomach, to occasion flatulence and colic, and the flatus is charged with a considerable quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen, arising from the sulphur which the legumin contains. They are also regarded as stimulating or heat- ing to the system, and it is on account of this property that a moderate quantity of beans proves a serviceable adjunct to the food during the winter months. BEANS. Beans are derived from the faba vulgaris, a plant which is supposed to be a native of the East, but which has been cultivated in England from time immemorial. There are several varieties, one of which is the common field bean, and another the broad bean of the garden. The latter is boiled in the young and fresh state, for use at the table as a vegetable. Composition of Beans. Nitrogenous matter... 30.8 Starch, etc 48.3 76 A TREATISE ON FOODS. Cellulose 3.0 Fatty matter 1.9 Saline matter 3.5 Water 12.50 100.00 PEAS. There are several varieties of peas. Some, derived from pisum arvensc, are known as field peas. Others, forming the garden pea, are derived from the pisum sativum, a native of the South of Europe. Peas are grown for the ripened and dried seeds, and also for eat- ing as a succulent vegetable. In the latter case the pods are gathered before they have arrived at maturity, and the seeds separated and consumed in a green state. Peas, when quite young, are tender and sweet, and far more digestible, but less nourishing, than peas in the mature state. The latter, like other leguminous seeds, require slow and prolonged cooking to render them soft and digestible. Composition of Dried Peas. Nitrogenous matter 23.8 Starch, etc. 58.7 Cellulose 3.5 Fatty matter 2.1 Mineral matter 2.1 Water 8.30 100.00 LENTILS. Lentils form another product yielded by the legum- inous tribe, and one of great antiquity. They are eaten quite extensively in some parts of Europe and the Far A TREATISE ON FOODS. 77 East. They are derived from the ervum lens, which con- stitutes a kind of tare. Composition of Lentils. Nitrogenous matter 25. 2 Starch, etc 56.0 Cellulose 2.4 Fatty matter 2.6 Mineral matter 2.3 Water 11.50 100.00 OLEAGINOUS SEEDS. There are various seeds, denominated nuts, which are devoid of starch, but rich in oily matter. The starch of the cerealia appears to be replaced by fat. They are also rich in nitrog'enous matter, which exists under the form of albumen and casein. Thus constituted, they possess a high nutritive value, but, like all articles permeated with fatty matter, they are difficult of digestion unless reduced to a minutely divided state before being con- sumed. The reason of this is easily given. Digestion is effected by the agency of a watery secretion, and where a substance is permeated with oily matter resistance is offered to the penetration of a watery liquid, and it is only by a progressive action upon the surface that it can become attacked. In a minutely divided state, however, no such obstruction is offered, and now there is only the richness belonging to an article which is largely impreg- nated with fatty matter. In this state, and if the stomach be not too delicate for them, they form a highly advan- tageous kind of food, although among the human race 78 A TREATISE ON FOODS. they enjoy but a limited application as an important or staple support. It must further be remarked that, on account of their fatty constituents, they are prone to become rancid, in the course of time, under exposure to the air. THE ALMOND. This forms one of the most important of the oily seeds. The fruit, like the peach, apricot, plum, etc., belongs to the drupaceous group. The cortical part of it, however, is fibrous and juiceless, and not adapted for eating. The seed or kernel, situated within the shell. and provided with an enveloping reddish-brown skin, is the only edible portion. The skin possesses a somewhat rough and bitter taste. Two varieties of almond are met with, the sweet and the bitter. They both yield by pressure an odorless fixed oil, which is of a perfectly innocent nature. Composition of Sweet Almonds. Emulsin 24.0 Fixed oil 54.0 Liquid sugar.., 6.0 Gum 30 Seed coats 5.0 Woody fibre 4.0 Water 3.5 Acetic acid and loss o.s 100.00 Composition of Bitter Almonds. Volatile oil, undetermined. Emulsin 30.0 Fixed oil 2S.0 A TREATISE ON FOODS. 79 Liquid sugar 6.5 Gum 3.0 Seed coats 8.5 Woody fibre 5.0 Loss 19.00 100.00 THE COCOANUT. The cocoanut is derived from the cocos nucifera, a species of palm, supposed to have been originally a native of the Indian coasts and South Sea Islands, but now found in all tropical regions. The tree grows from sixty to one hundred feet in height, and bears annually about an hundred nuts. The nut consists of a hard shell, con- taining a white, fleshy kernel, the central portion of which remains unsolidified, and yields the milky juice, which forms an agreeable, cooling beverage. The shell is surrounded by a thick, fibrous husk, which is turned to account for the construction of ropes, matting, etc., and in its natural state the fruit is about the size of a man's head. The fleshy, edible portion contains about 70 per cent of a fixed fat, which is extracted and used under the name of cocoanut oil or butter. Its melting point is a little over 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The cocoa- nut forms one of the chief foods of the inhabitants of Ceylon, the South Sea Islands, the coast of Africa, and many other tropical coasts and islands. It is not only eaten as it comes from the tree, both in the ripe and unripe state, but is also prepared and served in various ways. 80 A TREATISE ON FOODS- TUBERS AND ROOTS. Potatoes. The potato may be considered as now occupying a place next in importance to the seeds of the cerealia as an article of vegetable food. It is derived from the solan um tuberosum, a plant belonging to the order solanaceoe, which, including, as it does, the belladonna, stramonium, henbane, and tobacco plants, furnishes some of the most poisonous narcotic products encountered. It is supposed to be a native of South America, and to have extended thence to North America. It seems to have first been brought to the continent of Europe by the Spaniards, from the neighborhood of Quito, quite early in the sixteenth century, and to have been then cultivated in gardens only as a curiosity. Its introduc- tion into England and Ireland came from North America. The potatoes of Shakespeare are not the same as the potatoes under consideration; but, on the other hand, a product of the batatas edulis, known by the name of the sweet potato. The potato was a third time imported by Sir Walter Raleigh, and, as it then received notice as an article of food, the credit is usually given to him for its introduction among the English. The cultivation of the potato is now widely diffused over the globe, and it seems to thrive in most climates. The part of the plant used as a food constitutes the tuber, which is connected with, or, indeed, forms an exuberant growth of a portion of the underground stem, with which this plant, in common with some others, is provided, in addition to that which stows, as usual, above ground. The potato tuber is sur- A TREATISE ON FOODS. 81 rounded by a thin, grayish, epidermic covering, and beneath this is another tegumentary layer, in which color- ing matter is deposited. The substance of the potato is made up of cells, penetrated and surrounded by a water) albuminous juice, and filled with a number of starch granules. There. are many well-known different sorts of potato met with. They are derived from correspond- ing varieties in the plant. In the different varieties, notable difference in size, color, and edible qualities, are observable. Composition of the Potato. Nitrogenous matter 2.50 Starch 20.00 Cellulose 1.04 Sugar and gummy matter 1.09 Fatty matter o. 11 Pectates, citrates, phosphates and silicates of lime, magnesia, potash and soda 1.26 Water 74.00 100.00 It is thus seen that the potato contains a large per- centage of starch. This, indeed, forms its characteristic feature, and renders it applicable for the extraction, that is largely carried on, of starch for domestic and other purposes. While less expensive, there is nothing to show that the starch of the potato differs to any great extent. from the other starchy preparations, in a nutritive point of view. Potatoes require to be cooked to render them fit for eating, and this may be effected either by boiling, steaming, baking, or frying. The heat employed coag- ulates the albuminous juice contained within and between <"» 82 A TREATISE ON FOODS. the cells. The starch-granules absorb the watery part of the juice, swell up, and distend the cells in which they The cohesion of the cells becomes destro and they then easily separate from each other, leading to the potato easily breaking down into a loose fari- eous mass. When these changes are complete the potato is spoken of as being in a mealy condition. When. on the other hand, the liquid is only partially absorbed, and the cells inr ly separated, the potato remains more — firm, and is spoken of as close, waxy, or watery. Steaming is a better process for cooking p I v- than boiling, on account of not being a1 1 by the loss that is occasioned by the latter. When boiling is employed, the skin should not be removed, as is nearly always done: for the removal of the skin favors the ex- traction of the juice by the surrounding water. The waste, when potatoes are cooked in their skins only amounts to 3 per cent, whereas when they are peeled first, it is about 15 per cent. A little salt added to the water in which potatoes are boiled tends to prevent the escape of their saline constituents. The potato constitutes a wholesome ami .able article of food; and one. of which the palate does not easily become fatigued. The amount of nitrogenous matter it contains is too small, however, to enable it to form a suitable food alone, but with articles rich in nitrogr- enous matter, as meat, fish, etc.. it supplies a useful and economical alimentary substance. In a mealy state the enjoys easy digestibility; but in a close or watery a trying to the digestive powers, and, therefore, when in this condition, should be avoided where delicacy A TREATISE ON FOODS. 83 of stomach exists. The potato has a high repute for anti- scrobutic properties. The concurrent testimony of numerous observers points to its forming a most efficient agent in preventing the occurrence of scurvy. Potatoes become deteriorated upon growing out or germinating. They cease to assume a mealy state on cooking; present a semi-translucent appearance; and possess a rather sickly, sweetish taste. It has been asserted that a poison- ous principle, solan in, becomes developed in the buds and shoots of potatoes that are allowed to grow out on keep- ing. 1 f there be at any time a poison present, it must be either insignificant in amount, or be destroyed by the heat to which the potato is subjected before being sent to the table. Exposure to frost also seriously damages the potato. The effect produced is of a mechanical • nature. The watery juice contained in the cells and inter- cellular spaces undergoes expansion in the act of freez- ing, and so leads to a rupture and separation of the cells, and in this way a destruction of the organization of the tuber. Its vitality becomes thus destroyed, and in consequence, it has no longer the power to resist, when thawed, the ordinary changes of decomposition; hence, putrefaction occurs, and advancing, renders the article unfit for food. THE SWEET POTATO. The sweet potato is derived from the batatas edulis, a plant which is a native of the Malayan Archipelago, where it formerly grew wild in woods. The plant is now- cultivated in most of the warm countries, and furnishes a starchy and sweet tuber, which is prized as an article 84 A TREATISE ON FOODS. of food in most hot climates. When roasted or boiled, it is mealy, and may be looked upon as forming a whole- some food. It is supposed to possess slight laxative properties. Composition of the Sweet Potato. Nitrogenous matter 1.50 Starch 16.05 Sugar 10. 20 Cellulose 0.45 Fatty matter 030 Other organic matter 1. 10 Mineral salts 2.60 Water 67.50 100.00 CARROTS. The garden carrot is derived by cultivation from the. damns sarota, a plant 'which grows freely in a wild state in fields in some countries. The root of the wild plant is white, slender, and hard, and has an acrid, disagreeable taste, and strong aromatic smell. As the result of culti- vation, the root of the garden variety is thick, fleshy, and succulent and of a red, yellow, or pale straw color, with a pleasant odor, and a sweet, agreeable taste. While young it is very tender, but becomes hard when allowed to grow old. Carrots form a wholesome and useful food, for both man and cattle. They are not adapted, however, for a weak stomach, being somewhat indigestible and apt to produce flatulence. They are proportionately valuable as they have more of the outer, soft red, than the central, yellow, core-like part. On account of the sugar present, they admit of a syrup being prepared from them, and A TREATISE ON FOODS. 85 also yield by fermentation and distillation, a spirituous liquid. Composition of Carrots. Nitrogenous matter 1.3 Starch, etc 8.4 Sugar 6. 1 Fat 0.2 Mineral matter 1.0 Water 83.00 100.00 THE PARSNIP. The root of the parsnip, pastinaca sativa, is of a pale yellow color, but otherwise closely resembles that of the carrot, both in general characters and alimentary prop- erties. It is usually served as an accompaniment with salt fish. Composition of the Parsnip. Nitrogenous matter 1.1 Starch, etc. 9.6 Sugar 5.8 Fat 0.5 Salts 1.0 Water 82.00 100.00 Parsnips are not only used as a vegetable, but a wine is sometimes made from them. THE TURNIP. Turnips form an agreeable and extensively used veg- etable, being either cooked alone or mixed with soups and stews. From the large proportion of water it con- 86 A TREATISE ON FOODS. tains, its nutritive value is low. The top shoots of such turnip plants as have stood the winter may be gathered, and used as a green vegetable. Those from the Swedish turnip are the sweetest flavored. Composition of the Turnip. Nitrogenous matter 1.2 Starch, etc 5.1 Sugar 2. 1 Salts 0.6 * Water 91.00 100.00 BEET-ROOT. The common or red beet, beta vulgaris, which belongs to the family of saltworts, that contain also the spinich, quinoa, etc., and is characterized by the large amount of alkali in combination with an organic acid present in the plants, is a native of the coasts of the Medeterranean, and was cultivated as far back as 1650. It was then called beet-rave, from the French betterave. The root is usually of an elongated form, like that of the carrot, but in some varieties it assumes more of a turnip-shaped character. The color varies from a deepish blackish-red, to a light red. Beets are extensively grown and employed as food both for man and cattle ; and also used as a source of sugar. RADISHES. The common radish is a native of China. The root is either long and spindle shaped, or round and turnip shaped. The color of the exterior varies: there being A TREATISE ON FOODS. 87 black, violet, red, and white radishes; but in all the central portion is white. It is usually eaten in a raw state, but is sometimes boiled and served as a vegetable. In composition, the radish closely resembles the turnip. SALSIFY. The salsify, or purple goat's beard, also known as the Oysterplant, is a hardy plant. The root is long and tapering, and becomes by cultivation fleshy and tender, with a white milky juice. It has a mild, sweetish taste, like the parsnip, and is boiled or stewed for the table. HERBACEOUS ARTICLES. These include foliaceous parts, shoots, and stems of plants. They are valuable as articles of food, not so much for the absolute amount of nutritive matter afforded — for, on account of their succulent nature, they contain but a small proportion of solid matter — as for the salts they yield and the variety they give to our diet. By cul- tivation they have been brought to a very different state from that in which they originally existed. To make them tender and agreeably flavored is part of the art of the gardner, and is effected by quick growth and, in many instances by a partial exclusion of light. The antiscor- butic virtue of this class of vegetables is high. The products of the cabbage tribe are too well known to call for a long description. Looked at in a general way, the various cabbage plants form a wholesome and agreeable component part of the food of man. As they contain about ninety per cent of water their nutritive value is very low. They are, however, useful for giving 88 A TREATISE ON FOODS. variety, and for the salts they supply. They labor under the disadvantage of being articles of difficult digestion. which renders them unsuited where weakness of stomach exists. Their proportion of sulphur is large., and they thus are apt to give rise to flatulence of an unpleasant nature. SPINACH. The vegetable falling under this name forms the leaves of the spinacia oleracea, or garden spinach, a plant supposed to be a native of Western Arabia. There are several varieties of the plant, and the leaves are boiled for use at the table, to be eaten as a green vegetable, and are also frequently employed for introduction into soup. It is a wholesome vegetable with slightly laxative powers. The Beet family belongs to the same tribe, and the leaves of the beet are often used as spinach. RHUBARB. This forms another of the buckwheat tribe, and yields one of the most useful of garden productions. The stalks of the leaves, after being peeled, are cooked and eaten precisely in the same way as stewed berries, for whiich they form a good substitute, if even they are not to be preferred. Rhubarb occupies, indeed, in an alimentary point of view, the position of a fruit, but is not so eatable in the raw state. It is also sometimes used for making wine. On account of the oxalate of lime forming a con- stituent of rhubarb it should be avoided by persons suf- fering from the oxalate-of-lime diathesis. CELERY. The common celery, apium graveolens, is a native of Britain, and in the wild state is known as smallage, winch A TREATISE ON FOODS. 89 grows freely in marshy places. In this state it has a coarse, rank taste, and peculiar smell. By cultivation it loses its acrid nature, and becomes mild and sweet. To keep it white or blanched, it is excluded from light, by being earthed up as it grows, the tops of the leaves only being allowed above the ground. Several varieties of the plant are to be met with. Eaten raw, it must undoubtedly be looked upon as difficult of digestion. It is frequently stewed, and is employed also for introducing into soups. ASPARAGUS. The asparagus officinalis belongs to the lily tribe, and in its wild state is a sea coast plant. It is a native of Europe, and is now extensively cultivated as a garden vegetable. The young shoots form the portion that is eaten, and, by cultivation these have been greatly in- creased in size, and altered from their original condi- tion. They are universally esteemed as a choice and deli- cate vegetable. They contain a special crystallizable prin- ciple, called asparagin, which possesses diuretic proper- ties, and gives a peculiar odor to the urine. ONION. The onion, allium cepa, like the asparagus, although differing so much from it in dietetic properties, belongs to the lily tribe of plants. In common with, but to a higher degree than the other members of the allium species, which includes also the garlic, chive, shallot, and leek, it contains an acrid volatile oil, which possesses strongly irritant and excitant properties. Grown in Spain and other warm places, the onion is milder and sweeter than when grown in colder countries. The chief 90 A TREATISE ON FOODS. uses of the onion reared in our gardens is as a condiment or flavoring - agent, and they are also stewed and roasted for the table. LETTUCE. The garden lettuce, lactuca sativa, is a hardy plant, of which a great number of varieties exist. It is supposed to be a native of the East Indies, but has been cultivated in Europe from a remote period of antiquity. The leaves are usually round and spreading and grow near to the ground. The lettuce supplies a wholesome, digestible, cooling, and agreeable food. It is occasionally made use of as a boiled vegetable. It contains a milky juice, especially when the plant has been allowed to run to flower, which possesses a mild soporific property. CRESS. The common or garden cress, lepidium sativum, is a native of the East, but has been under cultivation for hundreds of years. The young leaves are used as salad, and they possess a pungent and agreeable flavor. It ranks as one of the principal of the small salads, and a variety with curled leaves is especially esteemed. WATERCRESS. The watercress, nasturtium officinale, is a creeping plant, which grows in slow-running streams, and thrives best on a bottom of sand or gravel. It is a native of almost all parts of the world, and forms a favorite and wholesome article, which is seldom out of season. There are two varieties — the green and brown. A TREATISE ON FOODS. 91 FRUITY PRODUCTS CONSUMED AS VEGETABLES. CUCUMBER. The common cucumber, cucumis sativus, is a native of the South of Asia, but has long" been cultivated in all civilized countries. It furnishes a fleshy fruit, which forms an edible product. It is grown both in the open air and under glass, the fruit varying in size, tenderness, and flavor, accordingly ; that which is forced or grown quickly possessing choicer qualities than that which is grown slowly. Cucumber in the raw state must be looked upon as a cold and indigestible article. Young cucum- bers are pickled in vinegar and condiments, and in this state they form an agreeable relish at a meal, and serve to give zest to other food. TOMATO The tomato, or love-apple, solanum ly coper sicum, is a native of South America. The ripe fruit is used in various .ways, and has an agreeable acidulous taste. It is more, perhaps, as a relish, than for its nutritive value that it is useful, and its popularity increases every year. In the unripe state it makes an excellent pickle. It is also extensively used in the manufacture of tomato ketchup. MUSHROOMS. The agaricus cam pest r is constitutes the common edible mushroom. It is found springing up spontaneously in our woods and pastures during the warm seasons, and is also cultivated in beds of prepared horse manure, and 92 A TREATISE ON FOODS. thence obtainable all the year round. It is a native of most of the temperate regions of both hemispheres. It produces a spreading- filrneritous or thread-like under- ground structure, called the mycelium or spawn. From this, little tubers spring, which rapidly enlarge, and grow into a stalk, bearing at its summit a rounded head, which, in a short time, expands into a pileus or cap. This, which forms the edible portion, constitutes the fructification, and presents upon its under surface a number of parallel plates or gills, that bear the sporules of the fungus. Mushrooms are employed for flavoring, and as- an occasional delicacy, rather than as a common article of io^d. Although difficult of digestion, and, therefore, not adapted \ov the weak stomach, yet by most healthy persons they may be consumed without proving hurtful. They are eaten in the fresh state, either broiled, baked, or stewed, and are also preserved by pickling. The young or button mushrooms are used for the latter purpose. The r semblance between mushrooms and toadstools is so close, that serious consequences have arisen from the wrong fungus having been eaten. The effects pro- duced by the poisonous fungus are of a narcotico-acrid nature; sometimes coma has been noticed as the predom- inant symptom, at other times the symptoms have been allied to those of cholera. TRUFFLES. The truffle forms a subterraneous fungus, which never appears above the surface. There are three varieties — the black, white, and red or violet. The latter is rare, and of the two former the black is held in by far the A TREATISE ON FOODS. 93 higher repute. The white, indeed, is considered of com- paratively little value. To be in perfection, truffles should lie quite fresh, much of their aroma being lost by keeping. Truffles are considered, in the Old World, an article of the greatest delicacy. Their firm and toughish consistence renders them indigestible, but they are esteemed for the sake of their peculiar aroma. They are seldom eaten alone. They are often used as a stuffing, and to flavor gravies and sauces. FRUITS. The term fruit, in botanical language, signifies the seed, with the surrounding structures, in progress to, or arrived at, maturity. In a popular and dietetic sense, it has a more limited signification, and refers in a general way only to such product when used in the manner of a dessert. Botanically, wheat, peas, beans, etc., constitute fruits, but popularly the term is restricted to articles like apples, pears, plums, peaches, cherries, grapes, etc. Fruits consist of two parts, the seed, and what is technically called the pericarp. The latter comprises that which surrounds the seed, and is composed of the eatable portion, the external integument or skin; the inner coat or shell; and the intermediate part, which generally possesses a more or less fleshy consistence. It is the in- termediate part which forms the edible succulent portion of the fruit. The flower, and thence the fruit, is formed from mod- ifications of the leaf, and in an early stage the fruit is green, and exhibits much the same chemical composition and general comportment as the leaf. It is only as ma- ( )4 A TREATISE ON FOODS. turity advances that its special characteristics become de- veloped. At first, like other green parts of the plant, it absorbs and decomposes the carbonic acid of the atmos- phere under the influence of light, liberating oxygen and assimilating the carbon. During its progress it increases more or less rapidly in bulk and weight; and, as it ap- proaches maturity, it loses its green color, and becomes brown, yellow or red, and no longer acts on the air like the leaves, but on the contrary absorbs oxygen and gives out carbonic acid. As this process advances, some of the proximate principles contained in the unripe fruit, par- ticularly the vegetable acids and tannin, in part disappear, apparently by oxidation, and thus, it becomes less sour and astringent. At the same time the starch undergoes transformation into sugar; and the insoluable pectose, into pectin and other soluble substances of allied com- position and having more or less of a gelatinous char- acter. The fruit in this way arrives at a state of perfec- tion for eating. Oxidation, however, still advances, and now, the sugar and remaining acid become destroyed, giving rise to the loss of flavor which occurs after the full ripened state has been attained and deterioration has set in . Finally, if the changes are allowed to pursue their ordinary course, the pericarp undergoes decay, and the seed is set free. The agreeable taste of fruits partly depends on the aroma, and partly on the existence of a due relation between the acid, sugar, gum, pectin, etc., and likewise between the water and the soluble and insoluble con- stituents. Luscious fruits like the peach, which seem to melt in the mouth, contain a very large proportion of A TREATISE ON FOODS. 95 soluble substances. A due proportion of gum, pectin, and other gelatinous substances, serve to mask the taste of the free acid, if present in a somewhat large proper- tion as compared with the sugar. Such is the case with the peach, apricot, and greengage, which contain but a small amount of sugar as compared with the free acid, but a large proportion of gum and pectous substances. The sour taste of certain berry fruits, as the currant and gooseberry, arise from the presence of a considerable quantity of free acid, with only a small amount of gum and pectin to disguise it. By cultivation, the proportion of sugar may be increased in fruits, as is shown by the difference existing between the wild and cultivated straw- berry and raspberry. Fruit forms an agreeable and refreshing kind of food, and, eaten in moderate quantity, exerts a favorable in- fluence as an article of diet. Its proportion of nitro- genous matter is too low, and of water too high, to allow it to possess much nutritive value. It is chiefly of service, looking at the actual material afforded, for the carbo- hydrates, vegetable acids, and salts it contains. It enjoys to a high degree the power of counteracting the unhealthy state found to be induced by too close restriction to dried and salted provisions. The preserved juice acts in this way equally as well as the fresh fruit, and the juice of certain fruits, the lemon and lime, for instance, as is well known, is specially and largely used for its anti- scorbutic efficacy. While advantageous when consumed in moderate quantity, fruit, on the other hand, proves often injurious if eaten in excess. Of a highly succulent nature, and 96 A TREATISE ON FOODS. containing free acids and principles prone to undergo change, it is apt, when ingested out of due proportion to other food, to act as a disturbing element, and excite de- rangement of the alimentary canal. This is particularly likely to occur if eaten either in the unripe or overripe state; in the former case, from the quantity of acid present; in the latter, from its strong tendency to fer- ment and decompose within the digestive tract. The prevalence of stomach and bowel disorders, noticeable during the height of the fruit season, affords proof of the inconvenience that the too free use of fruit may give rise to. The effect of fruit is to diminish the acidity of the urine. The alkaline vegetable salts which it contains becomes decomposed in the system, and converted into the carbonate of the alkali, which passes off with the urine. By virtue of this result the employment of fruit is calculated to prove advantageous in gout and other cases where the urine shows a tendency to throw down a deposit of lithic acid. THE APPLE. The apple, pyrus mains, and of which there are now very numerous varieties, is derived by cultivation from the wild crab, a native of Britain, and other parts of Europe. 'Hie apple forms one of the most useful and plentiful of fruits. It is introduced into tarts and puddings, besides being employed at the dessert table and made into sauce, preserve, and jelly. It also furnishes the fer- mented beverage called cider. Verjuice is the fermented juice of the crab-apple. a treatise on foods. 97 Composition of Apples. Soluble matter: — Sugar... 7.58 Free acid (reduced to equivalent in malic) 1.04 Albuminous snbstances 0.22 Pectous substances, etc. 2.72 Ash '. o-44 Insoluble matter: — Seeds 0.38 Skins, etc 1.42 Pectose 1. 16 Water 85.04 100.00 THE PEAR. The pear, pyriis communis, like the apple, flourishes pretty much everywhere. There is a large number of varieties of the pear. The fruit is chiefly used for dessert, but is also stewed and preserved as other fruits are. Composition of Pears. Soluble matter: — Sugar 7.000 Free acid (reduced to equivalent malic acid) 0.074 Albuminous substances 0.260 Pectous substances 3.281 Ash... 0.285 Insoluble matter: — Seeds 0.390 Skins, etc 3.420 Pectose 1.340 Water 83.950 100.000 100 A TREATISE ON FOODS. moderate quantity. Prunes are used for their laxative effect. THE CHERRY. The common cherry, cerasus duracina, is supposed to have been a native of Syria and other parts of Western Asia. The different varieties vary greatly in color. Cherries, like plums, require to be eaten in moderation, on account of their tendency to disorder the bowels. In the unripe and unsound state they are particularly apt to do so. The stones of cherries should never be swallowed. THE PEACH. The peach, amygdalus persica, is a native of Persia and the North of India, and is now grown in all temper- ate climates. It thrives very freely and produces most plentifully in the United States. The peach forms one of the most luscious and choicest of fruits. The skin is downy or velvety, and its color varies from a dark red- dish violet through many shades of crimson, green or vellow, to the clear white. The composition shows that the peach is notable for the small quantity of saccharine matter it contains in comparison with all other kinds of edible fruits. Composition of the Peach. Soluble matter: — Sugar 1.580 Free acid 0.612 Albuminous substances 0.463 Pectous substances, etc 6.313 Ash 0.422 A TREATISE ON FOODS. 101 Insoluble matter: — Seeds 4.629 Skins, pectose, etc 0.991 Water 84.990 100.000 THE OLIVE. The olive tree, oka europoea, is supposed to be originally a native of Greece, but it has long been natural- ized in other countries. The fruit in the ripe state is black, and its fleshy part abounds in oil, which is ex- pressed and used as salad oil and for cooking. The ripe fruit has a strong and, most persons would consider, a disagreeable taste. THE DATE. The date is derived from the phoenix dactylifcra, the date palm or palm tree of Scripture, a native of Afiica and parts of Asia, and now brought into cultivation in parts of Europe. Dates, both fresh and dried, form the chief food of the Arabs. Cakes of dates pounded and kneaded together into a solid mass constitute also the store of food, called the "bread of the desert," provided for caravans on their journey through the desert. The fruit is of a drupaceous nature, and the fleshy part con- tains about 58 per cent of sugar, accompanied by pectin, gum, etc. THE GRAPE. The grape vine, vitia vinifera, is indigenous in the far East. It produces fruit in the form of a globular or oval berry with a smooth skin. The color of the fruit is very 100 A TREATISE ON FOODS. moderate quantity. Prunes are used for their laxative effect. THE CHERRY. The common cherry, cerasus duracina } is supposed to have been a native of Syria and other parts of Western Asia. The different varieties vary greatly in color. Cherries, like plums, require to be eaten in moderation, on account of their tendency to disorder the bowels. In the unripe and unsound state they are particularly apt to do so. The stones of cherries should never be swallowed. THE PEACH. The peach, amygdalus persica, is a native of Persia and the North of India, and is now grown in all temper- ate climates. It thrives very freely and produces most plentifully in the United States. The peach forms one of the most luscious and choicest of fruits. The skin is downy or velvety, and its color varies from a dark red- dish violet through many shades of crimson, green or yellow, to the clear white. The composition shows that the peach is notable for the small quantity of saccharine matter it contains in comparison with all other kinds of edible fruits. Composition of the Peach. Soluble matter: — Sugar 1.580 Free acid 0.612 Albuminous substances 0.463 Pectous substances, etc. 6.313 Ash 0.422 A TREATISE ON FOODS. 101 Insoluble matter: — Seeds 4.629 Skins, pectose, etc Q-99I Water 84.990 100.000 THE OLIVE. The olive tree, olea europoea, is supposed to be originally a native of Greece, but it has long been natural- ized in other countries. The fruit in the ripe state is black, and its fleshy part abounds in oil, which is ex- pressed and used as salad oil and for cooking. The ripe fruit has a strong and, most persons would consider, a disagreeable taste. THE DATE. The date is derived from the phoenix dactylifcra, the date palm or palm tree of Scripture, a native of Afiica and parts of Asia, and now brougiit into cultivation in parts of Europe. Dates, both fresh and dried, form the chief food of the Arabs. Cakes of dates pounded and kneaded together into a solid mass constitute also the store of food, called the "bread of the desert," provided for caravans on their journey through the desert. The fruit is of a drupaceous nature, and the fleshy part con- tains about 58 per cent of sugar, accompanied by pectin, gum, etc. THE GRAPE. The grape vine, vitia vinifera, is indigenous in the far East. It produces fruit in the form of a globular or oval berry with a smooth skin. The color of the fruit is very ". : A TREATISE ON I D DS g^reec ed, tc black. Hundreds af etdes ~ bed in works ;:. tlie culture lant The g Is : the mos - rul and gi esteem* s The skin and s< »estible and s - juicy pulp ssesses *s - nutritious, - and may usual'; - s ..ken by If 5 a liuretic and laxai i The jui< t grapes < ins a < : grape-sugar, s k g ... and [extractive s tartrate lime, a little mar'; tgrt ents susj ended or dissolve M POSIT ION .^APES;. Soluble matter: — Sugai •. ;. 7$ Free acid 1.02c Albuminotis - ~ o 832 Pectous 5H stances, Ash D - Insoluble matter: — Seeds and -<:ns 2.5 2 Pec: use Water ~ 100.000 THE STRAWBERRY. The common wc stn berry is indigenous in a) all te tes. The products ; lave ted 1 y cultr lis rank among" the most tempting of summer fruits I afford A TREATISE ON FOODS. 103 an example of one of the greatest triumphs of the gardener's art. The fruit of the different plants varies greatly in size and keeping- qualities. The wild straw- berry has only about one-halt as much sugar as the tame cultivated varieties. Composition of Strawberries. Soluble matter: — Sugar 7.575 Free acid 1. 133 Albuminous substances °-359 Pectous substances, etc. 0.119 Ash 0.480 Insoluble matter: — Seeds, skins, etc 1.960 Pectose 0.900 Water S7.474 100.000 THE MULBERRY. The black or common mulberry, morns nigra, is a native of Persia, but is supposed to have been introduced into Europe by the Romans. The fruit is of a purplish black color, with dark red juice, tine aromatic flavor, and acidulous, and sweet taste. It possesses wholesome, re- frigerant and slightly laxative properties, and is highly esteemed for dessert: an excellent preserve and an agree- able wine are made from it. CoMrosiTlox of Mulberries. Solid matter: — Sugar 9. 192 Free acid 1.S60 Albuminous substances 0.304 Pectous substances, etc. 2.031 Ash o. 566 104 A MtB - ns FOODS In>. -'.-.:: — Seeds and sk as Q 905 close o 345 Watei £4 THE ME1 ON 1 1 gsl the , - - size, c - ssmool the fles s gre< sug s dess< , . . - te its congeners e cu< sagre* shing the fines ess* - esides being eat< i esh s eservi sug se en . - i . ... THE Fl ig, ficus i eties - - erous, « some is bluis ers, rt e, greer . be 1m nit is pear-s isists . ss c g nu seed-like sugar •; est I s exee< g arg* n c es th< laric scious A TREATISE on POODS. 105 fruit. Fig's are largely Imported in a dried and com- pressed stale [f Freely eaten ttoey arc apt to irritate and disorder the stomach and bowels. THE PLANTAIN WW) IVAN ANA. The plant ian, miisa pwodisiaca, is a native of the East Indies, luit is now diffused all over the tropical and subtropical regions oi the globe. It is so called on account of having been supposed to have furnished the fruit winch tempted Eve in Paradise. The banana, musa sapientum, appears to be only a variety ^\ the plantain, bearing smaller and more delicately flavored fruit. Its name is due to its having formed the chief \od(\ o\ the Brahmins or wise people o\ India. They both constitute exceed ingly productive plants, and it is asserted that an extent of ground which would only grow wheat enough for the support o\ two persons would maintain fifty il cultivated with the plantain. Maintains and bananas form im portant and valuable articles ^\ i^^A to the inhabitants ^\ many tropical regions. They even afford in some localities the chief alimentary support oi the people. The fruit occurs in large hunches or clusters, which weigh nearly fifty pounds. On stripping off the tegumentary part, a softish core is met with, which is chiefly fari- naceous in the unripe, and saccharine in the ripe state; the starch becoming converted, it is stated, during matur- ation, first into a mucilaginous substance, and then into sugar. Plantain meal is prepared by powdering and sift- ing the dried core of the plantain while in the green or unripe slate. It has a fragrant odor, and a bland taste, like that o\ common wheat flour. It is said to he easv 106 A TREATISE ON FOODS. of digestion, and to be extensively employed in some countries as the food of infants, children and invalids. The larger proportion of it consists of starch, but it also contains a certain percentage of nitrogenous matter, and is, therefore, of higher alimentary value than the starch preparations, as sago, arrowroot, etc. Composition of the Pulp of Ripe Bananas. Nitrogenous matter 4.820 Sugar, pectose, organic acid, with traces of starch 19-657 Fatty matter 0.632 Cellulose 0.200 Saline matter 0-79 1 Water 73.900 100.000 SACCHARINE PREPARATIONS. Sugar forms an important alimentary principle, and is met with widely, and in certain cases largely, among vegetable products, from some of which it is extracted for use. It also constitutes under the name of lactin, one of the ingredients of the animal food provided by nature for the support of the young mammal, viz., milk. Sugar was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, and its manufacture is said to be of the greatest antiquity in China. Sugar evidently contributes towards force-pro- duction in the body, and, likewise, as is shown by ample evidence, towards the formation and accumulation of fat. Being of a soluble and diffusible nature, it needs no preliminary digestion for absorption, and, therefore, sits lightly on the stomach. It is, however, in some dyspeptics A TREATISE ON FOODS. 107 apt to undergo the acid fermentation, and give rise to preternatural acidity of the stomach, and likewise fatu- lence. A popular notion prevails that sugar has a ten- dency to injure the teeth. This is due to the acid fer- mentation in the stomach after swallowing. Besides employment as a daily article of food, sugar constitutes the base of a variety of products of the con- fectioner's art. On account of its antiseptic virtue, it is also extensively used as a preservative of other sub- stances. It is chiefly vegetable products, as fruits, etc., that it is employed for preserving, but animal substances can be equally well kept by the influence it exerts in this direction. HONEY. Honey may be most conveniently referred to here, although not an article standing in precisely the same position as the other products included in the group. It is an article collected by the bee for its own use, which man takes possession of and consumes instead. It is an exudation from the nectariferous glands of flowers, which the bee sucks up and passes into the dilation of the oesophagus forming the crop or honey-bag. From this it is afterwards disgorged, probably somewhat altered in its properties by the secretion of the crop, and deposited in the cell of the honeycomb. Honey is a concentrated solution of sugar, mixed with odorous, coloring, gummy, and waxy matters. FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS. Farinaceous or starch matter is a product which is yielded by the vegetable kingdom only. Here, however, 108 A TREATISE ON FOODS. it is widely, and often very largely met with. Ir occurs under the form of little granular bodies starch-granules Iged in the vegetable tissues, but readily suscep: under appropriate treatment, of isolation. These gran- nies possess a distinctly organized construction, and are made up of a series of superposed layers, the outermost of which is the thickest and hardest. Thus are ; duced the concentric lines which are visible when the grannie is submitted to microscopic examination, which are arranged around a spot which is called the hilutn. The grannies from different sources present dis- tinctive features as regards, size, form, and appear:, which may be recognized with the aid of the microsc Starch forms an important alimentary article. Being devoid of nitrogen, it can contribute only towards :' and fat production. The hardness of the external en- velope renders the grannie in its original state difficull digestion — and digestion, which involves transformation into sugar, must occur before absorption and utilizal can occur. On this account, when starch is consume the raw state, more or less of it passes off with the undi- gested residue from the alimentarv canal. By boiling, or otherwise exposing to heat, the grannies rnptnre and ►me far more easily attacked by the digestive juices. Starchy matter, therefore, should be subjected to cooking- be fore being consumed. There are various starchy preparations in common use. such as sago, cassava, tapioca, arrowroot, salep, etc. BEVERAGES A supply of water under some shape or other is one of the essential conditions of life. It is just as needful A TREATISE ON FOODS. 109 as solid matter. It not only enters largely into the con- struction of the different parts of the organism, but is required for various purposes in the performance of the operations of life. Without it, for instance, there could be no circulation nor molecular mobility of any kind. It forms the liquid element of the secretions, and thereby the medium iov dissolving and enabling the digested food to pass into the system and the effete products to pass out. A constant ingress and egress are occurring, and tlie former requires to stand in proper adjustment to the latter. Under ordinary conditions of exercise and tem- perature it may be estimated that about five pints of fluid pass off through the kidneys, skin, lungs, and alimentary canal from an average sized adult in the course of the twenty-four hours, and this has to be replenished from without. But it is not necessary that this amount should be drunlc. A large proportion of our solid food, in many cases as much as 70, 80, or 00 per cent consist of water. The loss going oti, however, represents such a fluctuating product dependent on exercise or work and the tempera- ture to which the body is exposed that great variation must ensue in the amount of fluid consumed. If a plain and wholesome liquid be drunk the error is not likely to be committed of taking too much. After compensating for the loss by the skin, and with the breath, the surplus passes off through the urinary channel, and it is desirable that this surplus should amply suffice to carry off the effete products forming the solid matter of the urine in a thoroughly dissolved state. Water constitutes the essential basis of all our drinks, taken purely as such. The liquids consumed are of 110 A TREATISE OX FOODS. various kinds, but water is the element physiologically and indispensably required. Water is derivable from various sources, and is denominated accordingly as. rain water, spring water, well water, river water, distilled water, etc. TEA. Tea constitutes the dried leaves of a plant belonging to the genus thea of linnaeus. It is indigenous in China. Cochin China. Japan, and India. Tea is consumed under the form of infusion, which should be prepared by p ing boiling water on it. and allowing it to stand a short time. If boiled, a loss of its characteristic flavor occurs through the dissipation of the aromatic principle, which is very volatile. Tea contains essential oil, chlorophyll, wax. resin, gum, tannin, them, extractive matter, color- ing substance, albumen, fibre and ash. COFFEE. Coffee beans constitute the seeds found within the fruit of th< • )ffea arabica } a small tree belonging to the tribe coifed which is indigenous in Southern Abys- sinia. The fruit forms a succulent berry, similar in appearance and color to a small cherry. Each berry con- tains usually two seeds, forming the coffee bean of com- merce, surrounded by a parchment-like envelope and fleshy pulp. The chief constituents of coffee are of the same nature as tea. A volatile oil which gives to coffee the aroma it possesses, and is developed by the process of roasting. The amount of it is less than that existing in tea. An astringent matter constituting a modification of tannin A TREATISE ON FOODS. Ill and called caffee-tannic and caffeic acids. It is present in much smaller quantity than tannic acid in tea, and amounts to about 5 per cent in raw coffee. Caffein — this principle is identical with thein. The amount of it in coffee varies considerably. Composition of Coffee. Cellulose 34. Water 12. Fatty matter 13. Glucose, dextrin, vegetable acid, 15.5 L,egumin, casein, etc 10. Chloroginate of potash and of caffein 5. Nitrogenized structure 3. Caffein 0.8 Essential oil 0.001 Aromatic essence 0.002 Mineral substances 6.697 100.000 COCOA. Cocoa constitutes a product derived from the seeds of the theobroma cacao, a tree indigenous in South America, Mexico, and the West Indies. The term cocoa, as ap- plied to this product, must not be looked upon as imply- ing that it has any relation to the well-known cocoanut. Cocoa is characterized, and distinguished from tea and coffee, by the larger amount of fatty and albuminous matters it contains, these principles averaging as much as about 50 and 20 per cent respectively in the manu- factured article. 112 a treatise on foods. Composition of Cocoa. Cacao butter 50. Albumen and nitrogenous matter, 20. Theobromin 2. Starch with traces of sugar 10. Cellulose 2. Mineral matter 4. Water 12.00 100.00 While highly nutritive its richness in fat renders cocoa oppresive to a delicate stomach. As a closing article to the foregoing food analyse-, we will review milk and eggs. It happens that an article, viz., Milk, is produced by the operations of nature for the special purpose of sus- taining life during an early period of the existence of the mammalian animal. Such an article may be taken as affording a typical illustration of natural food. Now, we find on looking to its composition that it contains the following alimentary principles : Nitrogenous matter (casein principally, and in smaller quantity some other forms of albuminoid matter). Fatty matter (butter). A carbohydrate (lactin). Inorganic matter, comprising salines and water. The egg also stands in an analogous position. As all the parts of the young animal are evolved from it, it must needs represent the material, or contain the suitable prin- ciples, for the development and growth of the body, and the same groups of principles are to be recognized that exist in milk, although in the case of one of them it is A TREATISE ON FOODS. 113 only present to a somewhat minute extent. (1) Nitrog- enous matter is largely present under the form o\ albu- men, both in the white and yolk. (2) Oily matter is contained in the yolk. (3) Saccharine matter, a principle belonging to the carbohydrate group, is to be detected. but only, it must be mentioned, to a sparing extent, in which the composition o\ the egg differs notably from that of milk. (4) Inorganic matter, consisting ^i salines and water, completes the list, and for the saline matter required, that belonging to the shell is drawn upon as the process o\ incubation proceeds. As pointed out before there is an insufficiency oi mineral matter in the contents of the tgg unless the shell is taken into account. A HANDY TABLE OF VARIOUS FOODS. Linseed cake, 28.3 4i-3 10. Decorticated cotton cake, 41.0 57-o 10. Undecorticated cotton cake, 24.0 46.9 8.0 Bean meal, 25.5 45-5 2.0 Pea meal, 22.4 52.3 25 Rye meal, 11. 69.2 2.0 Indian corn, 10.0 68.0 7.0 Rice meal, 6.9 77.0 4.0 Palm nut meal. 14.0 76.0 4.0 Wheat bran. 14.0 50.0 3-8 Oats. 12.0 60.9 6.0 Barley, 9-5 6.6 20 Malt, 9.0 76.0 3.0 Malt culms. 2b. 60.0 4.0 Alsike clover in blossom, J5.3 29.2 3-5 White clover in blossom. 14.9 34-3 3-5 Red clover in blossom. 13-4 29.9 3-2 Common meadow hay, 8.02 41-3 2.0 b.05 35-a 2.0 -•5 38.2 2.0 2.0 21.0 i 5 - : 1.0 5. 1 0. 1 2.0 - : A r K B A T 1 S E N i- OPS. Pea straw, $ Oat straw, Potatoes, C . ■ ts, Turnips. Mangels, FEEDING FOR WINTER EGGS. I have had my troubles getl g . - to prod- . _- g : cold months of th< For *. - my tnone} - ced on a 1 g-s that nevei gallop* g thost three years the . ar banked the g e struck a natural d m my 5. I learned g e meaning generally works itself ul this ns th< g e feed store owners bah on the credit side of the bank ledger, 1: sounded interesting my unthinking- and unreasoning- intel whik s to mc the merits of their balanced hen feeds. sition usually about thus : Composition of "Oik" Mixed Hen 1-V Sunflower sec - Millet, Indian corn. Kaffir corn. Sweet corn. Whole corn. D ackf '. corn, Wheat screenings Barley. Oats. Buckwheat. A TREATISE ON FOODS. 115 Looked good to nit' then, and seemed to be cunningly thought (>ut, 1>ui after a prolonged study of foods and their analyses it did not look nearly so good to my awakening "thinker/' In three years, with an average of a hundred and fifty liens to winter, my 'balance shrunk something around five hundred dollars, and the egg pro- duction was nil. It is really amazing the way non producers of the hen tribe can eat up your good money, and, as a mere inci- dent, it may be mentioned as equally amazing, the very small amount of knowledge the average person has of the constituents of food substances. What started me to thinking- all the feed men were away off in their calculations of furnishing an egg pro- ducing food, and I honestly give them credit for really trying to put up such a food, was that I purchased a cow. It was not long after that, when the cold weather set in, that it was noticeable the cow was producing milk just as plentifully tied up in the shed eating a combined clover and timothy hay, with also a little corn fodder for variety,, and a couple of quarts of bran more as a laxative than anything else; producing milk just as rich in butter fat as she had during the warm weather. If, thought I, this cow can produce milk abounding in a good grade of fat from nothing but clover and timothy hay, or from nothing but ordinary pasture, why the deuce cannot hens produce eggs from the same substances. Then began a frantic search for knowledge. Foods haunted me by day and disturbed my sleep o' nights. The search for knowledge, with such a goal as winter egg production for its objective, was certain to result in 116. A TREATISE OX FOODS. success if dietetic principles were applied to the hen as intelligently as to the human being. The hens were evi- dently both willing and anxious to help me along. They had long since become wearied of balanced rations which passed through them without stopping to even suggest the egg proposition. That study of foods and the suc- cess attending it have led to the writing of this treatise on foods, so that all who run may read. and. incidentally, reap a profit from any breed of chickens they may happen to be keeping. Of course many o\ my dollars had gone to the various wise men of the East, who had books to sell at one to five dollars, which said books told one how to put in lots of one's valuable time doing a foolish piece of labor called "sprouting." or "processed" oats. Likewise many other men had "systems." but as you are all familiar with them and the wonderful results they are said to accomplish, on paper, it will not be necessary to "strain your system" by a recapitulation. One of the very real wise men is attempting to patent a growing grain crop. There is a chance for you, my dear reader, get out a patent on the potato crop — that will beat Armour in his wheat corner. T charge you nothing for the advice. To the feed store men I said: Out upon you: away with your bone meals: away with your beef scraps: they enter the hen as such, pass through her as such and arc thrown on the manure pile practically unchanged from the state in which eaten, making. 1 agree, a very good, but a very expensive fertilizer. $2.75 to $3.00 per hundred pounds for fertilizer, whew, no wonder 1 was growing poor quite rapidly. A TREATISE ON FOODS. 117 •Did you, my reader, ever feed a cow beef scraps to produce milk? Did you ever feed a cow bone meal to increase the production of butter fat? Not much, you say; the cow docs quite well on pasture and salt, and she does not add grasshoppers and bugs to her diet even in warm weather. My hens were finally placed on the following mixed diet, which from a dietetic point of view struck me as being about right. It is right. Whole corn for breakfast and supper. Whole rye for noon meal. Bran and linseed meal, with salt, in a common box. Cut clover and timothy hay, soaked over night in warm water. For the drinking crocks the beverage from the soaked haw That is all there is to the feeding and it makes hen- lay so fast it will keep you busy picking up the eggs any winter day. The mash is wet, after being well mixed together in a dry state. Four quarts of wdieat bran and a quart and a half ni linseed meal will suffice as "hopper" food for ;:> to 100 hens for :24 hours. The way chickens will eat of that cut hay and mixed mash will make you sit up and take notice.' The way they will repay you for giving them a rational food supply will tickle you. Look back at the composition of the tgg and you will understand the egg production. Thirty per cent of fat — the yolk all fat — that is where your corn and linseed meal come in, the rye very rich in the other necessary constituents "balances" the diet, and the green stuff is nature's preserved food-stuff for the cold weather. The 118 A TREATISE ON FOODS. hay by soaking over night is broken down and the tough texture softened; a manufacturer of any of our so-called breakfast-foods, would no doubt speak of this hay as "pre-digested" — and with reason, as it is already softened and moistened ready to undergo instant transformation the moment it reaches the hens crop. There is no labor preparing this hay. Simply cut it into short lengths in a cutting box, throw some into a 1-i-quart pail and pour water on it. and you have green food for 100 hens for a full day. Dilute the water from the hay with sufficient more water to go round your flock, thus they get all the good the hay possesses. I feed it in a box the same as the mash. The cost, figuring about five pounds of hay to a bushel, with hay at $9.00 per ton (that's what I paid for mine this fall) will come to about two and a half cents per bushel. That beats even your much advertised 10 cents per bushel stuff, and you do not raise a grain crop the whole of your spare time. You must, however, to get good results, never let up on the lice part of your labor. Also keep good grit, oyster shell and charcoal before the hens at all times. In the past I have paid a robber's price for alfalfa meal, and it never was a tenth as satisfying as common cut hay. My coop is built with a sloping flat roof, sides of one inch boards of any old kind of lumber, covered with a one-ply brand of roofing paper. Three varieties of chickens — B. P. Rocks, White Leghorns and R. I. Reds — do equally well in producing hen fruit on the above feed. There is an allowance of about four square feet for each hen and they are never out of doors from Fall until Spring. The writers for poultry papers who dope out A TREATISE ON FOODS. 119 the statement that each hen ought to have, and must have, not less than ten square feet of space to root around in, are about as close to facts in this matter as they are in matters of feed. Twenty of my hens will lay equally as well with four square 'feet as they will with twenty square feet, and, I have no doubt, even better. One long house separated into pens by the use of poultry netting fills the bill. My hens are not tempted to acrobatics by suspended cabbage plants. All they do is eat the right food and lay eggs. There is no artificial heat, and there are no so-called automatic non-freezing hot water foun- tains, as nature never, to my knowledge, provided or in- tended such contraptions. When buying your feed get the whole corn. You can rest assured then that you are not paying a high price for ground up corn-cobs and the floor sweepings. All ex- periments prove whole corn just as valuable as the cracked or ground grains, One hundred hens fed this way will cost perhaps forty cents per day for feed, and laying, sixty eggs per day at an average price near thirty cents a dozen will give you a nice clean profit of one dollar per day. These advertisers who get hundreds of dollars a clay from so many hens do not include the cost of the ads, etc. The owner of the great Crystal White Peggy might honestly advertise that he made $1,000 a day from one hen, considering the price he got from the foreigner for five of the hen's descendents, but he does not seem to be in that business. A good rule for feeding is always to feed just about what the flock will nicely clean up in the course of the day. 120 A TREATISE ON FOODS. Another idea I have gotten rid of is that of feeding skim milk to the chickens as a beverage. It does not amount to anything as an egg producer, and my observa- tion has shown me that the chickens will fill up on it to the exclusion of the foods they ought to have. As a liquid for wetting a mash, it is all right. EGG PRESERVATION. The poultry journals are crowded with advertise- ments of persons anxious to separate you from your money, or a part of it, by telling- you for one dollar, ten dimes, or one hundred copper cents, how to preserve eggs and hold them for higher prices. Any wholesale drug company will he able to supply you with soda silicate commonly called liquid-glass and water-glass, at a price of about I.** cents per gallon (about 1:2 pounds), this is diluted with an equal quantity of water. If eggs are dipped twice in this solution they will keep at least a year under ordinary conditions. This is the much advertised recipe, and as it cost me nothing to figure it out. it costs you nothing here, but it saves you that hundred cents. By dipping is meant wetting egg in the above solution the day it is gathered and again dipping egg the next day the second time — this giving a coating of liquid glass, which prevents evaporation. INCUBATIOW I am going to tell you something about incubation that no paper or incubator man has ever been able to tell you, although you see the question persistently asked, "Why do my chicks die in the shell?" Did you ever A TREATISE ON FOODS. 121 figure it out? I did, from reading the earlier articles in this book on food, eggs, etc. There is the making of a chicken in the yolk of an 't> eo'o* How? By the constituents of the "yellow" and "white" and shell. Through the influence of incubating heat. A yolk is not alive with blood, or flesh, or bones, or feathers before it is incubated and hatched. What con- stitutes incubating or hatching? Simply this: Heating — a certain degree and duration of it — sets in motion the "functions" of the chemical "organic" compounds which compose egg-yolk, as winding sets in motion the mechan- ism of a clock ; and the egg, unalive, begins to breathe. Yes, sir, begins to "breathe." The "incubated" egg actually inhales oxygen and exhales carbonic acid gas as plants and animals do; and perspires vapor or moisture through its shell-coat as we do through our skin. Day by day, the activity or motion of the yolk-chem- icals increases and "attracts" the chemicals of the white and of the shell — and behold — a chick. Why hatched? Because heat motion helped to start motion of a given kind, called breathing, inside of the egg shell. If that heat, or the lack or excess of some degrees of it, had started another kind of motion, called fermentation, inside of that same egg shell — as often happens — the outcome or product would have been rot instead of a chick. . The heat started "function'' or breathing in the egg- volk. and heat awakened or wound up the "still" mechan- 122 A TREATISE ON FOODS. ism of organized matter, thereby setting in motion certain physical elements which moisture and minerals and albu- menoids maintained until blood and flesh became "ani- mated'' with instinct — another form of motion — which led its owner to fracture the egg shell that the chicken might wiggle out into surroundings containing greater stores of heat, moisture, minerals, albumenoids, light, and joys or sorrows, according to the wisdom in brooding possessed by its owner. Now, to sum it all up, it is "oxidation" which gives life to the chick in its shell, and oxidation which thins the shell progressively until the chicken can escape at the right time into an atmosphere where there is more oxygen and less heat. Do you understand now why your chicks die in the shell? Lack of oxygen. I have never seen an incubator that was anywhere near perfect in supplying sufficient fresh air to ozygen- ize the poor little cuss struggling in that warm egg shell. Incubator manufactorers especially make matters worse by telling their customers to set up the machines in a cellar where the temperature is pretty nearly steady. Now did you ever see a cellar where the supply of oxygen was such that you would like to spend a large part of your time in it? Never. An incubator properly constructed should admit plenty of air; there should be a row of warm pipes beneath the egg tray as well as the heat above the tray, and the thermometer ought to be suspended even with the eggs. Outside tem- perature ought not to influence an incubator very much a treatisk on foods. 123 if it is properly insulated — say it be as well insulated as our fireless cookers. Think over this, build one and grow prosperous. The brooders are far worse than the incubators as at present constructed. The idea of keeping a chicken breathing such hot air is pretty nearly a crime. When hen- brooded their heads are "out of doors" and their little bodies tucked indoors. If you want a fireless, or oil saving brooder, why not use soap stones for heaters? That would be more humane than nothing in the way of heat. That's all about chickens, and egg production, and in- cubation. Remember you save the price of this book many times over in the saving effected by removing beef scraps, alfalfa meal, bone meal, etc., from the daily menu, besides learning how to preserve eggs with "water-glass." Feed as instructed and you will have eggs all the year round and at the minimum expense for feed and labor. As an illustration of the ignorance prevailing where the composition of food is concerned — I wrote Air. Chas. A. Cyphers, designer of many incubators, and many at- tachments for use thereon. He is also President and actual head of the mammoth chicken park known as the Model Poultry Farm, near Buffalo, N. Y. In reply to my question as to the relative value of green foods in winter, his response, to be brief was: "Mangels are as good as anything." Now, that reply reflects the lack of attention this most important matter receives at the hands of so- called practical poultrymen. If you will refer back a 124 A TREATISE ON FOODS. few pages to "a handy table of the various foods," you will see Mangels at the bottom of the list — about ninety per cent water and no nourishment at all. You can draw your own conclusions. THE FINAL WORD. This work covers, of course, many foods not strictly on the hen dietary; however, the book being of an edu- cational nature, and destined (I hope) to reach thou- sands of homes where a food analysis was never before seen, it was thought only proper that the everyday food substances be given attention, for every child and every parent ought to know something of the origin and uses of the foods they daily consume. (THE END.) A TREATISE ON FOOD AND EGG PRODUCTION 3C By Frederick Kelley LE My '09