Class Book- COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT m^-K srAimtmmy .a^.ii ^NEW YORK AND ITS ENVIRONS BY / X^USTAV KOBBF AUTJKIR OK "jersey COAST AND PINES " KTC. WITH MAPS NEW YORK HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE 189I W/. \m,.. Copyright, 1891, by Hakpek & Bno-fhERS. Ali righls reserved. •H] TO EDWARD D. ADAMS, IN A SUGGESTION FROM AVHOSE FERTILE MIND THE ATTTHOR's FIKBT GUIDE-BOOK HAD ITS ORIGIN. ^^ z:~. ILLUSTRATIONS. Liberty Enlightening the World Frontispiece. Elevated Railroad Opposite page 37 Trinity Church " " ^^ Washington Statue " '" 102 East River Bridge " " 138 St. Patrick's Cathedral . ■' " 190 Yanderbilt Houses " " 19G Obelisk " " 340 Menagerie (Central Park) " " 244 Terrace and Esplanade, (Central Park) — " " 248 MAPS AND PLANS. New York City In front of book. Central Park Opposite page 238 New York and Vicinity " " 204 Manhattan Elevated Railroad " " 36 Metropolitan Museum op Art, 1st floor *' 2d '' CONTENTS INTRODUCTORY. Topogrraphy and Statistics.— History.— Routes of Travel. — Bajif?ase Inspection.— Street Car Lines.— Elevated Kail- roads— Hotels.— Restaurants.— Newspapers.— Amusements. —Turkish and Russian Baths.— Foreign Consuls. —Bankers.— Banks.— Postal Information.— Messenger Service.— Express Service.— Telegraph and Cable Rates.— Stores.— Lavi' Courts. —Charity.— Colleges.— Clubs.— Athletics and Sport.— Money. —Directories and Railway Guides 11 CHAPTER I. B dloe's Island (Statue of Liberty), Ellis Island (Immi- grant Depot) and Governor's Island G9 CHAPTER II. Battery to Wall Street. The Battery.— Barge Office.— Fraunces' Tavern.— Pro- duce Exchauge. —Bowling Green.— Washington Headquar- ters (No. 1 Broadway). —Trinity Church 76 CHAPTER III. Wall Street. Stock Exchange.— Sub-Treasury.— Ass;iy Office.— Office Buildings.— Custom House 97 CHAPTER IV. Wall Street to City Hall Park, Equitable Building. -Signal Service.— Chamber of Com- merce.— Western Union Building- John Street M. E. Church.— Fulton Street Prayer Meeting. —Oldest House in New York.— St. Paul's Chapel— Post Office 110 CHAPTER V. City Hall Park and Vicinity. City Hall.— Governor's Room.— Register's Office.- New Court House.— East River Bridge 131 CHAPTER VI. Detours from City Hall Park. Harper & Brothers.— Cherry Street.— Newsboys' Lodging- House-Chinatown— Bowery. -Five Points 141 CHAPTER VII. CtTY Hall Pauk to Madison SyuAiiE. Grand Street. —Board of Education — Polish Jew Qiiar- ter.^Ludlow Street Jail.— St. Auj^ustine Chapel.— Police Headquarters —Board of Health.— Abtor Library.— Cooper Union.— Bible House. -^ t. Mark's P. E. Church— Historical Society.— A. T. Stewart's.— Grace Church.— Union Square.— Young Women's Christian Association. -Retail Shopping District 150 CHAPTER VIII. Fifth avenue. Washington Square.— New York Hospital.— Twenty-third Street.— National Academy of Design.— Madison Square.— John Jacob Astor.- Union League Club — Grand Central De- pot—St. Bartholomew's P. E. Church and Mission.— Jay Gould. —Columbia College.— St. Pati'ick's Cathedral.— Van- derbilt Houses.— St. Tiiomas's P. p]. Church 169 CHAPTER IX. Metropolitan Museum of Art - Lenox Library.— Ameri- can Museum of Natural History 20:^ CHAPTER X. Central Park. General Features.- Obelisk.— Statues.— Menagerie.- De- tailed Tour 238 CHAPTER XI. East of Central Park. Fire Department. West and Nortliwest of Central Park. —Riverside Park.— (irants Tomb.— igh Bridge.— Battle of Harlem Heiglits 2.-)l CHAPTER XII. Public Charities and Correction. BellevueHospital.— Morgue.— Blackwell's Island. —Ward's Island.— Randall's Island.- -Hart's Island 259 CHAPTER XIII. Environs. Long Island —Je; sev Coast. —Hudson River.— Staten Island. 2G4 PREFACE. This aims to be a work worthy of the great city to which it is a guide. It is not intended to usurp the functions of a directory; but to point out and describe such features of New York City and its varied life, as an intelligent and cultured stranger might be interested in seeing, care having been taken to discriminate between what is of interest to New Yorkers only and what a visitor t o the city would find worthy of attention. There is much in New York which must be familiar to those who have long resided in it or have been enterprising enough to explore it, which can have no place in a guide, if only because too many details would tend to confuse rather than enlighten a stranger. Yet the author believes that many New Yorkers who consider themselves familiar with their city may first learn from this book what a really wonderful and attractive place they live in. Con- siderable historical nuitter has been introduced in the description of what may, by comparison, be called the ancient part of the city — that portion of it which lies below Canal street — for only in this way could an ade- quate idea be conveyed of the developement of the little Dutch trading post of New Amsterdam to the stately metropolis of the New World. The stockade erected along the present line of Wall street as a means of defense against Indian attacks; the skiff which constituted the ferry to Brooklyn, starting from what is now the corner of Exchange place and Broad street, down the ditch which ran through the latter street; cattle grazing on the common pasture where City Hall Park now is; 10 anglers casting their lines in the Fresh Water Pond or Collect where the Tombs now stands; — such historical data will, it is hoped, serve to emphasize the contrast between the New York of to-day and the New York of the past. The main portion of the book is arranged in the form of an itineracy. This is preceded by an Introduction giving general information regarding the city's topogra- phy and history; routes of travel, hotels, restaurants, shops, postal and telegraph facilities and similar mat- ters. The itineracy begins at the southern end of the city. The islands in the harbor are first described. Then, starting at the Battery, the stranger is conducted up Whitehall street to Bowling Green ; from there up Broadway to Madison square and thence up Fifth ave- nue to Central Park, detours being made to points of interest east and west of the main thoroughfares. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Lenox Library and the American Museum of Natural History are then described, and a chapter on Central Park follows, the itineracy concluding with a description of those parts of the city east, west and north of the Park. A chapter is then devoted to points of interest in the environs of New York. The author will consider it a favor if any one dis- covering mistakes of commission or omission will call his attention to them. GUSTAV KOBBE. Short Hills, Essex County, New Jersey, INTRODUCTORY. TOPOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. Topography.— New York City is situated : latitude, 40°, 42" 40' north; longitude, 74°, 0" 3' west, at the mouth of the Hudson river, 18 miles from the Atlantic ocean, 190 miles southwest of Boston, 205 miles northeast of Washington, and 715 miles east of Chicago. It com- prises the Island of Maidiattati, Governor's, Bedloe's (Liberty), and Ellis Islands in the bay, occupied, how- ever, by the United States Government ; Blackwell's, Ward's and Randall's Islands in the East river, and so much of the maiidand north of the Harlem river, which is bounded north bj the city of Yonkers, west by the Hudson river and east by the Bronx river. Its greatest length from the Battery to its most northerly point is 16 miles ; its greatest width, from the mouth of the Bronx to the Hudson river, 4.}/^ miles ; its area, 41 1< square miles (26,500 acres). The most im])ortant part of the City is the Island of Manhattan, VS^ miles long and 2^ miles wide at its widest point, at Fourteenth street, being very much narrower both below and above this line, especially at the Battery and above One Hundred and Sixtieth street, where it narrows to a strip between the Harlem and the Hudson rivers. Its area is 22 S(]uare miles (14,000 acres). Its boundaries are : North, Spiiyten Duyvil creek and the Harlem river; west, the Hudson river; east, the East river ; south, by New York bay. The highest point, 288 feet above tide water, is at Washington Heights, and the extreme northern })oint is the termina- tion of the bold bluff which rises between the Hudson and Harlem rivers. Various sections of the City have local names. Yorkville begins at Eighty-sixth street on the East side and runs to Harlem, which extends from about One Hundred and Tenth street north and north- east of Central Park to One Hundred aiul Fifty-ninth street, embracing the section east of Eighth avenue. Bloomingdale, Manhattanville. Carmansville and Wash- ington Heights. The last named, with Fort Washington, are on the west side of the upper part of the Island of IS Manhattan. (See large map of City.) So much of the City as lies on the mainland is called the "* Annexed Dis- trict." Here are, among other localities, all shown on the map of the City, Morrisania, West Farms, Tremont, Fordham, Williamsbridge and W^oodlawn. Popalation and Structures. — The total iniml^er of structures of all kinds in New York City lias been enu- merated at about 107.000, of which some 71.000 are below Fifty-ninth street, 75,000 being used wholly or in part for dwellings. The population of New Yoi-k City is a matter of dispute between the Federal Census Burenu and the City authorities, the Federal census placing it at 1,518,501, and tiie census made under the supervision of the City authorities at 1.710,715. When, as is the case with London, not oidy the City itself, but what might properly be called tlie "Metropolitan Disti-ict. the suburbs lying within a radius of twenty miles of New York, is c'onsidered, the population is very much larger, probably approaching 3.000.000. Food Supptif. — The annual food supply for this popu- lation has been computed as follows : Beef. 423,056.500 lbs. ; Veal, 367,105,000 lbs. ; Mutton and Lamb, 78,749.- OOO lbs. ; Pork, 244.465,300 lbs. Total. 1,113.758.000 lbs. Fish, 54,750,000 lbs.; Oysters, about 15,000,000 a day during the season, from Septend)pr 1st to May 1st: Poul- try, 73,436,000 lbs. ; Eggs, 66,862.400: Butter. 84.671.400 lbs. ; Vegetables, 8.0'JO barrels a day. For Wines s e Commercial Statistics below. Groton Aqueducts. — New York's water supi)ly is de- rived from the Croton water-shed, the Croton river being a stream in Westchester County, about 40 miles from New York and emptying into the Hudson. The various lakes and streams which makeup this water-shed are carefully guarded against pollution. The first Croton aqueduct was built-in 1842. Its capacity for the last 16 years has been 94,744,742 gallons per day. the water flowing into it from Croton Lake, artificially formed by a dam at the head of the aqueduct, which raised the Croton river 40 feet. There are also storage reservoirs. From Croton Lake the old aqueduct runs southwest, crossing the Harlem river by High Bridge, , where there is a reservoir and a water-towei" for supply- ing the upper part of the city; another tower being at 13 Ninth avenue, Ei<:^hty-seventli and Eighty-eighth streets. The main reservoirs "are those in Central Vavk, which are respectively a retaining and a receiving reservoii-. the former, tlie more nortiierly, having a capacity of 1,000,00(),0<)0 gallons and the receiving reservoir of 150,- 000,000; the high-service reservoir at High Bridge hav- ing a capacity of 11,000,000 gallons. The sup[)ly not proving adequate, on account of the remarkable growth of the city, an act for the construction of a new aque- duct and the incidental reservoirs and dams was passed in 1888. This new aqueduct has been in operation since June. 1890, although a complete system of reservoirs and dams has not yet been constructed. The new aque- duct also taps the ('r.)ton water-shed at a point near the present Croton Lake, and runs to a gate-house at One Hundred and Thirty-fifth street and Convent avenue and thence through pipes to various points, including the i-eservoirs in Central Park. It is considered a great work of engineering. It was constructed horse-shoe shape at an iiverage depth of 170 feet below the sui-face, tunneling through solid rock being resorted to wherever it was found practicable. Instead of lieing led across the Harlem river on a bridge, as the old aqueduct was across High Bridge, it runs 307 feet below the river bed through solid rock, rising perpendiculai'ly to the estab- lished grade from the south shore of the river. The following are some of the statistics of the new aqueduct : Length, 33^ miles; lieight of inside horse-shoe, 13.53' at greatest height, and 13.60' at greatest breadth to the Harlem river; beneath the Harlem river a well 10| feet in diameter; capacity 250,000,000 gallons per day. Cost so far about $'22,000,000. Changes are contemplated in the original plans for storage reservoirs in the Croton water-shed, so that information concerning these cannot yet be given, nor can the full cost of the work be esti- mated until plans are finally adopted. Street Plan. — According to the last Quarterly Report of the Department of Public Works the total length of paved streets in New York City is 361.19 miles ; of sewers, 436.58 miles; and there are in use 26,981 gas lamp-i, 881 electric lights, and 138 naphtha lamps. From the Battery to Fourteenth street, a distance of 21^ miles, the streets are irregularly laid out, following, 14 ospecially in llie lower })art of this section, the lines of old thoroughfares. Above Fourteenth street tlie city is laid out into avenues — 1 to 12, and A, B, C, D east of First avenue, where the broadening of the city neces- sitates; with Lexington and Madison avenues above Twenty-third street, and Park avenue built over Fourth avenue from Thirty-fourth street to Forty- second street, the Fourth avenue horse-cars running under it through a tunnel, Fourth avenue continu- ing again above the Grand Central Depot. So nnich of the city as lies on the mainland is not, however, regularity laid out as yet ; nor in the northwest and extreme northerly part of the Island is the division of avenues and streets characteiistic of the street plan from Fourteenth to Fifty-ninth street exactly cairied out. In this regular street plan the avenues are mostly 100 feet and the streets 60 feet wide, with the exception of import- ant thoroughfares like Fourteenth, Twenty-third, Thirty- fourth, Forty-second, Fifty-seventh, and other streets in the upper i)art of the city, which are lt»0 feet wide, Thei-e are twenty blocks to a mile. The house numbers run from Fifth avenue east and west, the odd numbers being on tiie upper side, the even numbers on the south side of the streets, and respectively on the west and east sides of the avenues. The sti'eet numbers are so divided as to give 100 to a block, from 1 to 100 west or east being found on the first block west or east of Fifth avenue, and so on. Bi'oadway, which below Fourteenth street is the main artery of the city's commerce, is only 80 feet broad. Beginning at Bowling Green it runs in a straight line to Tenth street, wheie it deflects towards the west and continues on the line of tiie old Bloomingdale road to a point at Fifty-ninth street between Seventh and Eighth avenues. Ihe Boulevard, which continues Broadway to Inwood, near the end of the Island, is 150 feet wide and is a well laid-out thoroughfare, as is also St. Nicholas avenue, which leaves Central Park at Sixth avenue and One Hundred and Tenth street and runs to One Hundred and Fifty-fifth street, at which point it joins the old KingsV)ridge road. Wall street, in some respects the most important street in the United States being the financial centre of the whole country, is a narrow cailon less than half a mile long. 15 Political Divisions. — The City is divided into twenty- four Wards — the Twenty-third and Twenty-fourtli being on the mainland — Ijut I'or purposes of representation in Congress, the State Senate and the State Assembly is also divided into Congressional, Senatorial and Assembly districts. These larger divisions are in turn subdivided into election districts. Commerce. — New York is the most important port of the United States, about 65 per cent, of the entire foreign com- merce of this country being carried on through it. As a port of entry it embraces all the towns and cities and other settlements on New York Bay, the Hudson and East rivers, including the important cities of Brook- lyn and Jersey City. Some interesting statistics of the City's entries and clearances of vessels will be found under Custom House. Other commercial statistics , ob- tained from the Chamber of Commerce and showing the relative commercial importance of New York and the rest of the United States, are as follows: The total foreign commerce of the United States for 1889, latest statistics accessible, was $1,613,137,633, of which $876,808,110 fell to New York. Sugar and molasses, New York $44,367,704; the rest of the United States only about $5,000,000 more. Coffee, New York $58,860,319; the rest of the United States only about $16,000,000, all told. Tea, New York $9,643,514: the rest of the United States only about $3,000,000, all told. Wool, New York $41,048,679 as against about $11,500,000. Sillv, New York $31,129,113 as against about $6,225,000. Champagne, New York $3,672,752 as against about $750,000. Still Wines in casks, $1,502,208 as against about five-eighths of a million: in bottles, New York $975,861 as against about $850,000. About 75 per cent, of the immigration into the United States passes through New York. Wetter Front. — The Island of Manhattan alone has 24^4 miles of water front, all but 2^{ miles of which, on the Harlem River is available for deep sea vessels, and a ship canal, now in course of construction by the United States Government, will make the Harlem River front equally available, besides affording a route from Long Island Sound independent of the passage through Hell Gate. At present most of the shipping is accommodated 16 below Fourteenth street on tlie North River and on the East River below Grand street. From tiie liattery to tliese points there is a perfect forest of masts, shi{)S of all nations, among them many steamers being moored iiere. A great improvement and extension of New York's water front is in contemplation, but at present tills important feature of the city is picturesque chiefly through its dirty surroundings and its irregularity. The large map of the city in the front of the book shows the various ferries and steamship lines. The Battery is given up chiefly to ferries. From here tlie tour of the East River lies along South street. To Coenties slip the piers are lined with small sailing vessels, Coenties slip being the center for canal-boats ; and beyond, between Wall and Fulton street ferries, are large and small sy,iling vessels, numy of them fruiterers, and sev- eral steamship lines. Tlie piers near Fulton Market derive a local color from the fishing smacks that cluster near the wholesale flsh-market under the shadow of the great East River Bridge. Above Catherine street are the dry docks, and beyond these iron foundries, lumber- yards and gas-works. Pier A, to the north of the Bat- tery, is used as headquarters for the Department of Docks and fc>r the River Police. Pier 1 is the Iron Steamboat Company's pier. At Fulton and Yesey streets is Washington Market, and in its vicinity the great produce-distributing district of the city, the piers here being used for ferries and f<>r various vessels tribu- tary to this business. At Warren atid Murray streets are the great Boston boars, the Providence and Fall River lines, and from here to Twenty-third street a suc- cession of foreign and domestic steamship companies. The gi'eat European steamships have piers in the neigh- borhood of Christopher street, and just above tliis is the floating oyster-market, a series of moored barges. Approaches by Water. — The approaches to New York from the Atlantic ocean are most beautiful. The light- house on Fire Island beach on the Long Island coast is usually the first point sighted by incoming European vessels. From here vessels are signaled by telegraph to New York City. Tiie most conspicuous picture on the Jersey coast, whicli soon afterwards looms up. are the twin lights on the Highlands of Navesink, back 1 17 of Sandy Hook beach. The steamers in entering the Lower bay approacli so near Sandy Hook that the details of its shore — a waste of sand, stunted cedars and scrub oak, with a liglit-house and two beacons, a telegraph tower from which vessels are also signalled, an unfinished fort, and various apparatus of the United States Ord- nance Corps — are discernible. Between Sandy Hook, which is part of a sandy peninsula and the mainland, is Sanily Hook bay. To the north and northwest is Staten Island. Between its south shore and the New Jersey shore is Raritan bay, into which the linritan river empties, and on the west Staten Island is separated from New Jersey by the narrow Staten Island Sound, which joins the Kill von KuU — the latter separating the Island on the north from the mainland and entering New York bay. The broad sheet of water lying between Sandy Hook and the Narrows is known as Lower New York bay, of which Karitan bay and Sandy Hook bay may be considered parts. Across from Sandy Hook, on the Long Lsland shore, are Coney Island and Rockaway Beach, the former with its numerous lai-ge caravansa- ries, its Observatory and huge wooden elephant, while to the north the Staten Island and Long Island shores, approaching each other, form the Narrows, the gateway into New York bay — the almost land-locked, secluded, yet vast hjirbor of New York. The first station under the jurisdiction of the Commissioners of Quarantine is the ship Illinois, anchored from May 1st to November 1st, three miles below Swinburne Island. From this ship all vessels arriving from infected ports are boarded. Three miles above this are Swinburne and Hoffman Islands, artificially made upon a reef, and respectively seven and eight miles south of New York City; the hospital for contagious diseases being located on Swinbuine Island, and quarters for well persons from infected vessels on Hoffman Island. Vessels from non-infected ports are boarded from Clifton, Staten Island, just inside the Narrows, where also the Custom House Inspector usually boards vessels from foreign ports. On the Staten Island shore of the Nar- rows is Fort Wadsworth; on ti)e Long Island shore. Fort Hamilton ; a little off the shore, the circular Fort Lafayette, built in 1812, where during the Civil War 18 political suspects were imprisoned. Once throuo^h the Narrows. New York City lies straight ahead — to tlieri<^ht Brooklyn, to the left Staten Island, and further u}) the harbor Bergen Neck and Jersey City. The Statue of Liberty on Bedloe's Island (p. 69), and the East liiver Bridge (p.l38\ become next to the city the most con- spicuous features in the view. Governor's Island, with its picturesque fortifications lies but a thousand yards south of the BatteiT, the southernmost point of the Island of Manhattan, and Ellis Island, where is the official funnel through which three-fourths of the immigration pours into the United States lies between Bedloe's Island and the Jersey shore. At the Battery the harbor sweeps around on the east into the East river (the local name for Long Island Sound), and on the west into the Hud- son, to which the local name of North river is given. The great Eui-o{)ean steamship lines have their piers on the North river, the English lines on the New York side. the German, Dutch ancl Belgian on the New Jersey side, the North German Lloyd (Bremen) and Hamburgh piers being at Hoboken. The East river runs between New York City and Brooklyn, broadening out after sweeping to the east from the Island of Manhattan into the beau- tiful expanse of Long Island Sound, 110 miles long and from three to twenty miles wide, with Long Island on the east and New York and Connecticut on the west. On Throgg's Neck, about twenty miles from the Battery, and on Willet's Point, on the opposite shore, are fortifications, those on tlie foi-mer being Fort Schuyler. On the East river are Blackwell's, Ward's and Randall's Islands, which are described under Public Ciiarities and Correc- tion. Hell Gate lies in the narrow l)end in the East river, just north of Blackwell's Island, l)etween Astoria and Ward's Island. Navigation of it was made dangerous Tiot only by the sharp and narrow turn of the river and the resulting rush of tide, but also by a ledge of rocks ))rojecting from the Long Island shore for a considerable distance and rising at various intervals almost to the surface, causing numerous dangerous currents and eddies. From 1870 to 1876, under the United States Government, Gen. Newton directed a series of opera- tions, drilling the principal rocks and charging them 19 with iiitro-glyceriTie, which was exploded during th*^ suiiiiner of 1876. October 10. 1885, Flood Rock, which was even hirger tlian the rock blown u}) in 1876, was re- moved by similar operations. HISTORY. The Island of jManhattan was discovered by Henry Hudson, after whom the Hudson river is named, iii September, 1609. Though the Dutch, in whose service Hudson's expedition was undertaken, dispatched trad- ing vessels to this region, the first settlement on the island appears to have been made in 1623, and it was not until 1634 that a governor, Cornelis Jacobson May, was installed. In 1625 May was succeeded by William Ver- hulst, and he in turn, in 1626, by Peter Minuit. under whose administration Fort Amsterdam, on ground now just soutli of Bowling Green, was erected (p. 84). The purchase of Manhattan Island from the Indians was effected by Minuit, the pi'ice paid being goods to the value of $24. In 1644 the fortifications were extended to what is now the line of Wall street, and ran from the I'last to the North river. They consisted of a ditch and palisaded bi'eastwork, these being completed in 1653. Meanwhile Peter Stuyvesant. who was governor for seven- teen years and under whom the rule of the Dutch virtually terminated, although there was a brief interregnum in 1673, had arrived in 1647. March 12, 1664. Charles II granted the entire territory to his brother, the Duke of York, and the hitter's representative, Col. Richard Nichols, arriving before New Amsterdam with a small fleet, the city was surrendered without an attempt to resist the superior force. New Amsterdam was changed to New York, Col. Nichols assuming the governorship. In July, 1673, Capt. Manning, being in command of the city, sun-endered ignominiously to a Dutch force, but the Dutch remained in possession only until November 10, 1674, being ousted by the treaty of peace between England and the States General. Events of import- ance prior to the rupture of the colonies from Great Britain were : In 1689, a rebellion headed by Jacob Leisler, the leader of the progressive party, who chose these forcible means to settle a disputed election, the rebellion ending in his trial and death ; in 1696, the 26 Imilding: of tho first Trinity Churcli ; in 1702 a fatal epidemic; in 1785, tlie Zenj^er trial, uiiich estab- lished the fi'eedoin of tlie press in America, Zenger in Ills Neiv York Weekly Journal, having opposed Gov. Cosby's claim to half the salary of his predecessor, and having been therefor imprisoned for libel, bnt eventu- ally acquitted on a trial by jury; in 1741, the negro plot, information on the part of a negi-ess leading to the hanging of some and j)urning of other negroes, who were supposed to be in a cons|)iracy to attack the whites and sack the city, althougii there seems but little doubt that the girl's testimony was ]ierjured. The dissatisfaction which led to the Revolution and the final separation of the colonies from Great Britain first vented itself in Xew York in 1765, a congress of delegates from nine colonies meeting here and adopting a bill of rights, which asserted the sole power of taxation to be vested in the colonies. The Sons of Liberty were organized to opj)ose the Stamp Act, and in 1770 a meeting of 8,000 citizens resolved to oppose all oppressive measures. The Colonial Assembly terminated April 3, 1775, delegates to the Continental Congress being elected July 25th of that year, and the twenty-one pieces of cannon, all that were mounted on the city forts, were removed. After the battle of Long Island, September 15, 177G, tiie British crossed to Manhattan Island, and after Washington had withdrawn from Ilarlem Tleighisthe city remained in the j^ossession of tiie British until the close of the wai-. the final evacua- tion taking place November 25, 1768, During the Revolution there were two disastrous fires, in the first of which, St-ptember 21, 1776, Trinity Church was destroyed. The British iiad used all the churches ex- cepting the Episcopal for prisons, riding-schools and bari'acks, leaving iheni nearly desti'oycd or in a state ill adapted for religious uses, and had wroui^ht other depre- dations. Both under the Dutch and English colonial governors the city liad been the seat of government. From 1785 to 1790, it was the seat of government of the United States, Washington being inaugurated April 8 ), 1789, and from 1781 to 1797 it w4s the State caintal. In 1788 the Hospital Riot, caused by one of the students in the New Vork Hospital (p. 60), who was operating in the dissecting-room, waving an arm from the cadaver 31 at so.ne boys who peeped in at liini tliroiigh the win- dow, a mob gratheriiig and attacking tlie building. In 1791, 1795 and 1798, the city was visited by yellow fever. During the last ten years of the last century the city began to extend a little beyond the present City Hall Park. Tiie corner-stone of the City Hall was laid in 1808, the structure being finished in 1812. The city's growth from the l)eginning of the century has been very rapid. By 1805 it had extended beyond the Collect and Marsh, respectively at the site of the present Tombs and the line of Canal street; the Collect being filled in at this time and Canal street laid out. There were disastrous fires in 18!J4, and in 1811. By this latter year the city liad grown to such proportions that a commission was appointed to survey and lay out the island north of Houston street, a work which was completed in 1821. A further expansion was caused bv the vellow fever epi- demics of 1819, 1822 and 1823, "which drove people to the upper part of the island. Gas was generally intro- duced in 1825, and in this same year the completion of the Erie Canal further stimulated the city's growth. The Harlem Railroad was incorporated in 1831. Notwith- standing the cholera e{)idenucs of 1832 and 1834, the great tire of December 16, 1835 — which destroyed 648 of the finest commercial structures in the city, east of Br.)adway, Ijelow Wall street — and the great financial panic of 1837, the city continued to progress. The first Croton Aqueduct was built in 1842. July 19, 1845. there was another great fire, which destroyed $5,000,000 worth of property in the district bounded by Broadway, Exchance place. Broad and Stone streets. The Astor place riots, which grew out of the riva'ry between Macready and Forrest, the actors, occurred in May, 1849, ajid resulted in the loss of several lives. A cholera epidemic in the summer of 1849 carried off over 5,000 per>ons. July 14. 1853, an industrial exhit)ition was opened in the Crystal Palace, a fine building in the form of a Greek cross. It was burned in 1858. Mean- while there had been another cholera epidemic in 1855. In 1857 the Metropolitan Police was established, and the resistance to the act of the Legislature by Fernando Wood, tlien Mayor, resulted in what are known as the Police liiots. During the Civil War, New York fur- 22 iiished 116.382 men to the Federal armies. July 13, 1863, the most serious riot from which New York has ever suffered broke out in opposition to the draft, the mob holding possession of the city for three days, the riot being finally quelled on the 17th. There were sev- eral collisions between the rioters and the troops, and it is estimated that over 1,000 persons were killed, among them several negroes, against whom the mob's fury seemed especially directed. July 12, 1871, 62 persons were killed in a i"iot which grew out of a procession of Orangemen in celebration of the Battle of the Boyne. Trouble having been apprehended, the paraders were provided with a militia escort, which was compelled to fire upon those who attacked the procession. In 1871, it was discovered that a ring, known as tlie Tweed ring, and consisting of several of the most prominent officials of tiie city, had been robbing the treasury, antl in the ensuing election in November, the opponents of the ring were elected, and the leader of the ring, William M. Tweed, and several of the conspirators were convicted and imprisoned, Tweed dying in prison. A portion of Westchester county was annexed in 1873, aiid a great stimulus to the growth of the city has been given by the elevated railroads, the first of which was built in 1868. 23 =^^ J . ■ ^a^.o 5 . S dJ O .0) o ,S-5'rf a; oi = 03 '^ S *^ 5 3 ^ Oi CC OC 73 OJ 6 D Oi O ^ rt ^ W pq pd S ^ -^ ^.SS : Pn <<■ > > -7^ ojW-g dtc to "S "oJ K ^ r_s 3i OS 03 !u r ^■5^t3«2&qfLiP^-n-g a: :: W Oj 5 03 K-if o3 5 t^ i, i, v; t, 1^ 3^ .1/ O) <1J tP .2 : 5 ■' 2 '. 03- i|dd|§§ii^|||||-pp^| .■S c o ° 2 a c a^ P o s: 24 >.c >> - u. S W ^ ■^^ 3O g'Ti ^— ^ — 20fq = 'Z "C — ■ — T >-i "o "i^ 5^" =^:^§?.^ O .S OJ d ^^ p oi c ^ ^H "5 ^1 , c -r .S Si; V . 1) I^M; X ' >^. ' • ^ :- • ■ fe ; i:ja::s K ^7i 3J 03 C rt = ^ i- .= - -; K^ [_5 'h-J 'hJ 1-3 hJ S S r^ f 35 : 3 *j i-i :j p_^ oD -D ^u 2 2 '^ ''^ "^ '"S ' -• ■^ '=^ >s>i'-~^'^ O 'O^inr w ix; :0 ;Qr 26 RAILKOADS.i From Grand -Central Depot, Forty-second Street AND Fourth Avenue. New York Central and Hudson River Railroad. — To all points on east shore of the Hudson River, connect- ing at Albany for Saratoga, Lake George, both shores of Lake Chainplain, the Adiroiidacks and Montreal. Fast vestibuled car service for Buffalo and Niagara Falls via Utica, Syracuse and Rochester, and from Buffalo in connection with the Lake Shore Line and "Big Foil " Lines to Chicago, Cincinnati, Indianapolis and Sc. Louis. Connection also for Detroit. New ro7'k arid Harlem Railroaa. — Lake Mahopac and Berkshire Hills, besides many of the Westchester County suburbs. New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad.^ For Stanjford (connection for Ridgefield), South Nor- walk (connection for Litchfield), Bridgeport (connection for Stockljridge and Lenox), New Haven, Hartford, Springfield, and Boston. Also for Quebec. New York mid Boston Shore Line. — Runs on the tracks of the New York, New Haven and Hartford to New Haven; to Boston via the shore of Long Island Sound (New London and Stonington) and Providence. New York and Nt^ir Etnihnid Railroad. — Runs on the tracks of the >sew York. New Haven and Hartford Rail- road to New Haven, and then via Willimantic to Bost(jn. From other Depots. Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. — Ferry from foot of Liberty street. Depot, Jersey City (Central Railroad of New Jei'sey). Fast vestibuled Pullman cfir service tc Philadelphia, Baltimore, Wasliington, Pittsburgh, *Foreigners will fiiul tlie service on the great railroads of the United States most adnairable, everytliing being done to secun. speed witli safety, and every consideration being paid to ILh comfort of the passenger Baggage to a reasonable amount (say a trunk and portmanteau to each passenyer) is carried free, the passenger receiving a clieclv for it at the ))ajiicage ofltice. The fares are also reasonable— in the author's experience lower tlum those in England or on tlie CoiUinent. Tickets can gener. ally be purchased at an^- t^f the '■-"-•ee hotels. S7 Cleveland, Chicago, Cincinnati and St. Lonis, and all points west. To Philadelphia the service is over the Royal Blue Line, composed of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, Philadelphia and Reading Railroad and Baltimore anyMary Powell). Fishkill Landing Fort Lee Fort Lee Garrison's (Albany Day Line) Hudson (Albany Day Line). . Hyde Park (by Mary Powell) Milton (by Mary Powell) Newburg (Albany Day Line) Newburg (by Mary Powell). New HambuVg(Mary Powell) New Hamburg Nvack Peekskill Poughkeepsie( Alb'yD"y Li'e) Poughkeepsie (Mary Powell) Rhinebeck(Alb'ny Day Line) Rondout (Albany Day Line). Rondout (by Mary Powell). . Sing Sing Tarrytown Tivoli Tivoli Troy (Albany Day Line) Troy ( Citizens' Line) West Point(Alb'ny Day Line) West Point (by Mary Powell) Yonkers Pier foot of street. * Vestry Canal Christopher. . Vestry Vestry Vestry *Canal W. 130th Vestry Vestry V. stry Vestry * Vestry Vestry Vestry Franklin *Harrison . . . * Harrison . . . * Vestry Vestry *Vestry *Vestry Vestry Franklin Harrison Jay Harrison . . . *Vestry W. Tenth... . * Vestry Vestry *Harrison . . . I Rogu- Excur lar. sion. ^3 50 2 50 2 50 Too 1 r,o 1 25 1 00 1 CO 1 25 1 25 50 50 1 50 1 25 50 2 50 1 00 1 00 14-> 145 145 115 56 60 10 10 51 120 81 72 60 60 48 76 76 90 05 95 35 28 100 100 151 151 53 53 17 *Laud also at foot of West Twenty-second street. 31 Steamboats to Landing's not on the Hudson RiYer. LANDINGS. Atlantic Highlands Bedloe's Island Blackwell's Island Boston, boat, via Fall River. Boston, by boat, via Norwich Boston, boat, via Providence Bridgeport Coney Island Glencove Governor's Island Great Neck Greenport Hartford Martha's Vineyard New Brunswick, N. J New Haven New Haven .. New London Newport New Rochelle Orient Perth Amboy Portchester Providence Red Bank Rockaway Beach Roslyn Rossville Sag Harbor Sand's Point Sandy Hook Saybrook Seabriffht Sea Cliff Shelter Island South Amboy South Norwalk Southold Stamford Stonington Whitest(me ^ Willet's Point Woodbridge Pier foot of street. Rector Whitehall . . 26th St., E. R. Murray Watts Spring Catherine Pierl, N. R.. *Peck slip. . . Pier 3, E. R.. *Peck slip.. . Beekman . . . Peck slip Market Harrison Peck slip Cortlandt . . . . Spring Murray Pike Beekman Harrison. . . . Pike Spring Franklin West 23d *Peck slip. . . Vesey Beekman Peck slip. .. Rector ..' Peck slip Franklin *Peck slip.. . Beekman — Harrison *Beekman... Pike Pike Spring Beekman Pier 3, E. R.. Vesey FARES. Regu- Excur- lar. sion. $0 60 $1 00 25 20 3 00 3 00 3 00 50 75 "3.5 "60 (iov't boat 3.5 60 1 25 1 50 2 25 4 00 7 00 50 80 75 1 25 75 1 25 1 40 2 00 25 1 25 25 40 25 2 25 50 80 . 50 35 50 25 40 1 25 35 60 65 1 00 1 50 2 25 25 40 35 50 1 25 30 50 40 60 1 25 35 50 1 35 25 40 Gov't boat 25 40 r2 i 20 240 240 225 65 23 "ie 125 150 180 35 76 76 120 170 20 120 24 27 180 35 30 21 140 26 20 100 130 27 48 135 40 120 13- 14 25 *Land also at foot of East Thirty-first street. 32 FERRIES. FERRY. Fare 3 FROM NEW YORK TO Astoria 92d St., E. R., to Astoria. " . . 7 10 Beeknian st. E. R. to Astoria. Bay Ridjje Whitehall st. to Bay Ridge. Blackwell's Island 20 26th St. E. R. to Blackw'I's Isl'd. " «' 25 52d St. E. R. to Blackw'I's Isl'd. Brooklyn 2 Catherine st. to Main st. B'klyn " 2 Fulton St. N. Y. to Fulton st. Brooklyn. " 2 Whiteh'l St. to Atlantic st. B'k'n n 2 Whitehall st. to Hamilton av. Brooklyn. " 5 Whitehall to 39th st. So. B'klyn 2 Wall St. to Montague st. B'klyn Brooklyn, E. D . . 2 Grand st. E.R.to Grand st. B'k'n a ii 2 Houston St. to Grand st. B'klyn a a 2 Grand st. to Broadway, E. D. " " . . . . 3 Roosevelt St. toBroadw'y, E. D. " '•*.... 3 E. 23d St. toB'dw'y, B'k'n, E.D. College Point. . . . 10 99th St. E. R. to College Point Fort Lee 10 15 Pass 130th street to Fort Lee. (( (( Canal street, N. R. Governor's Island The Battery to Governor's Isl'd Green Point 3 10th st. E. R. to Greenpoint av. (( (( 3 23d St. E. R. to Greenpoint a v. Hart's Island 40 26th St. E. R. to Hart's Island Hoboken 3 Barclay st. to Newark and Fer- ry sts., Hoboken. (( 3 Christopher st. to Newark and Ferry sts., Hoboken. «< 3 14th st.N.R. to 14th st. Hob'k'n Hunter's Point. . . 6 See Long Island City. Jersey City 3 Desbrosses st. to Montgomery St., Jersey City. a a 3 Cortl'dtst.to M'iitg'm'y st.J.C. a i. 3 West 34th St. N. R. to Mont- gomery St. Jersey City. ti a 3 Liberty st. to Cen. R. R.of N. J, Dock. 33 FERRIES-Coiitiimed. FERRY. '^are 3 FROM NEW YORK TO Jersey City Chambers st. to Pavonia Ferrv, Erie R. R. Dock. " " 3 23d St. N. R. to Pavonia Ferry, Erie R. R. Dock. Long Island City. 6 James' Slip to Long Island City 4t ii 3 34th st.E.R.toLong Isl'nd City Morrisania 10 Pier 22 E. R. to Morrisanin. Randall's Island. . 25 26th St. E.R. to Randalls Isl'nd " ' • 25 116 or 120th St. E. R. to Ran- dall's Island. '• . . 25 122d St. E. R. to Randall's Isl. Staten Island. . . . 10 Whitehall st. to Staten Island. Ward's Island . . 20 26th St. E. R. to Ward's Island '< " 20 115th St. East River. Weeiiawkcn .... 5 -^2(1 St. N. R. toR. R. Slip. 5 42d St. N. R. to Old Ferrv Slip i '"> Jay St. N. R. to R. R. Sfip. 34 CAB AND COACH FARES. Regulated by city ordinance. Complaints made to the Mayor's Marshal, Room 1, City Hall. It is the duty of every cab or coachman to hand to the passenger a card, giving rates, and to have the card conspicuously posted in his vehicle under penalty of a fine. The rates are in full for from 1 to 4 persons in a coach and 1 or 2 persons in a cab or hansom. It is well for a passenger to make a l^aj-gain before entering. Cab and Hansom Bates. — 50 cents first mile or part thereof; 25 cents each additional mile. 25 cents for stops over 5 to 15 minutes. By the hour, going from place to place with stops at the passenger's option, $1.00 for first hour or part thereof, and 50 cents for each suc- ceeding half hour or part thereof. Coach Bates. — .|1,00 for first mile or part thereof; 40 cents each additional half mile or part thereof. Stops over 5 to 15 minutes 38 cents. By the hour |1.50; 75 cents each succeeding half hour. MAIN STREET CAR LINES* New York City is ])retty well gridironed with horse and cable railroads (usual fare 5 cents). The stranger will generally find the elevated railroads most convenient, especially between distant points. Therefore only street railways most important from the visitor's point of view are given. South and North. Broadway Line. — F'rom Central Park througn Seventh avenue and Broadway to the Battery. Transfers at Barclay street to Univei>ity place branch, and at Park place to Seventh avenue brancli and vice versa. Bleecker Street and Fulton Ferry Line. — From Fulton Ferry to Twenty-third Street P'erry, via Broadway, Bleecker, Hudson, Fourteenth streets and Ninth avenue to Twenty-third Street. Branch from East River Bridge. '' Belt Lines.'' — Run along or near the water front of both the East and North rivers crossing the city througii Fifty-ninth street. * Tramways. 1 35 Eighth Avenue Line. — From Broadway and Vesey street, via West Broadway, Hudson street to Eighth ave- nue, Fifty-ninth street (Central Park). From Broadway and Canal street, to Eighth avenue and One Hundred and Fifty-fourth street. Foitrth Avenue Line. — From Broadway and PostOfRce (lower end), through Park row, to Centre street, Grand street, Bo\very, Fourth avenue, Grand Central depot. Transfer cars P. M.); New York Society, 67 University Place (8 A. M.— 6 P. M.). NEWSPAPERS AND PERIODICALS. The i)rincip;d daily news[)apers are : Morning — Dai/y Continent, Democratic, 239 Broadway ; Herald, Independent, Broadway and Ann street. Fifth avenue and Twenty-third street; 31orning Journal, Indepen- dent, 102 Nassau street ; Press, Republican, Park Row (Potter Buikling); Sun, Independent, Printing House Square; Times, Independent, Printing House Spiare; Tribune, Republican, Printing House Square; World, Democratic, Pulitzer Building (adjoining East River Bridge). German — Sfa(Us Zeitung, Democratic, Tryon Row. French — Courier des Etats Unis, Democratic, 19 Barclay street. Commercial — Commercial Bulletin (except Sunday), 32 Broailway; Journal of Commerce (except Suiulay), 76 Beaver street. Evening (except Sunday) — Commercial Advertiser, Independent, Fulton and Nassau streets; Mail and Express, Republican, 23 44 Park Row; Evening Post, Independent, Broadway and Fulton street; Evening Telegram, lnde[)eiident, Broad- way and Ann street; Evening Sun, Independent, Print- ing House S(|uare; Evening World, Democratic, Pulitzer Building. Weekly — Frank Leslie's Illustrated Neivs- paper, 110 Fifth avenue (also German); Harper's Bazar (the leading weekly for women); Harpers Weekly (the leading weekly of the United States), Franklin Square; Illusf rated American, Bil)]e House; Nation (the leading political weekly of the United States), 210 Broadway. Gome— Life, 28 West Twenty-third street; Puck, 39 East Houston street ; Judge, 110 Fifth avenue. Monthly (illustrated) — Century, 83 East Seventeenth street; Cos- mopolitan, Twenty-sixth street and Fifth avenue ; Har- per^ s New 31ontJily Magazine, Franklin Square; aScWS- ner's Magazine, 743 Broadway. THEATRES. The most desirable seats in New York theatres are, except private boxes, in the parquet (also orchestra or dress circle). Tiiese cost $1.50 each, though at the "popular" theatres prices range much lower. Opera glasses may be hired in the lobby. Programmes free. The leading theatres, stock companies marked *, are : Academy of Music, East Fourteenth street, corner of Irving place; Amberg.'s Tiieatre, Fifteenth street and Irving place; Bijou Theatre, Broadway and Thirtieth street; Broadway Theatre, Forty-first street and Broad- way; Casino. Broadway and Thirty-ninth street (light opera); *Daly's Theatre, Broadway and Tiiirtieth street; Fifth Avenue Theatre, Twenty-eighth street and Broad- way; Fourteenth Street Theatre, Fourteenth street and Sixth avenue; Garden Theatre, Madison avenue and Twenty-seventh street; Grand Opera House, Eighth avenue and Twenty-third street; Hammerstein's Colum- bus Theatre, One Hundred and Twenty-fifth street and Lexington aveiuie; Hammerstein's Harlem Opera House, One Hundred and Twenty-fiftii street and Seventh ave- nue: *Ilarrigan's Theatre, Thirty-fifth street, east of Sixth avenue ; Herrmann's Tiieatre, Broadway and Twenty-ninth street; *Ijyceum Theatre, Fourth avenue and Twenty-third and Twenty-fourth streets; Madison 4:H Square G irden, Twenty-sixth and Twenty-seventh streets, and Fourth and Madison avenues; * Madison S(i[uare Theatre, Twenty-fourth s-treet, near Fifth Ave- nue Motel; Metropolitan Opera House, Broadway and Thirty-ninth street; New Park Theatre, Thirty-fifth street and Broadway; Niblo's Garden Theatre, 522 Broadway; Palmer's Theatre, Broadway and Thirtieth street; Proctor's Theatre, Twenty-third street, between Sixth ami Seventh avenues; Standard Theatre, Sixth avenue, Broadway and Thirty-third street; Star Theatre, Broadway and Thirteenth street; Tony Pastor's Theatre (Variety), Tammany Hall, Fourteenth street, near Third avenue ; Union Square Theatre, Union square and Broadway. COxNCERTS. The principal concerts to which the public is admitted are given at the Metropolitan Opera House, by the Phil- harmonic, Sympliony and Oratorio (choi-al) societies. Parquet, $1.50. CONCERT-VARIETY PERFORMANCES. Koster & Bials, Twenty-third street, between Sixth and Seventh avenues. WAXWORKS. Eden Musee, Twenty-third street, between Fifth and Sixth avenues. MUSEUMS. American Museum Natural History, Manhattan square. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Central Park, near Eighty-first street and Fifth avenue entrance. New York Historical Society, 170 Second avenue. PICTURE EXHIBITIONS. City Hall, City Hall Park. Lenox Library, Fiftii avenue and Seventieth street. 46 Metropolitan Museum of Art, Central Park, near Eighty-first street and Fifth avenue entrance. See also Art Stores, Academy of Design and Art Students'' League. TURKISH AND RUSSIAN BATHS. Produce Exchange, 8 Broadway; Hoffnian House, 7 West Twenty-fourth street; Windsor Hotel, 7 East Forty-sixth street; 18 Lafayette Place. CYCLORAMA. Battle of Geftysburgh, Nineteenth street and Fourth avenue. DIVINE SERVICE. Trow's Directory contains a complete list of churciies of all denominations with the pastors' names. The best known churches in New York are: Baptist. — Adoniram Judson Memorial, Thompson street and South Fifth avenue, Edward Judson; Calvary, Fifty-seventh street, between Sixth and Seventh aA'e- nues, R. S. McArthur; Fifth Avenue, 6 West Forty- sixth street, W. H. P. Faunce. Congi-egational. — Broadway Tabernncle, Broadway and Thirty-fourth street, Wm. IM. Tayloi-. llethodist EpiscopaJ. — Hedding, 337 Ea-t Seventh street, A. C. Morehouse; John Street, 44 John street; Madison Avenue, Sixtieth street and Madison avenue, Ensign McChesney. Presljyterian. — Brick, 410 Fiflh avonue, Henry J. Van Dyke; Church of the Covenant, 28 Park avenue, J. H. McElvaine; Fifth Avenue, 708 Fifth avenue. John Hall; Fourth Avenue, 280 Fourth avenue, Howard Crosby; University Place, George Alexander; West, 81 West Forty-second street, John R. Pax ton. There are about 65 Presbyterian churches in the city. Protestant Episcopal. — Trinity, the most noted church in New Y^ork City, Broadway and Rector streets, Mor- gan Dix; St. Paul's (Trinity Parish), Broadway and Vesey streets, James Mulcahey; St. Augustine's ('hapel (Trinity Parish), 107 East Houston street, A. C. Kimber. 47 Other well-known congregations among the 90 odd of this denomination are: All Souls, Sixty-sixth street and Madison avenue, R. lieber Newton; Grace, Broadway, near Tenth street, W. K. Huntington; Heavenly Rest, 551 Fifth avenue, D. Parker Morgan; St. Ann's, 7 West Eighteenth street, Thomas Gallaudet; St. Bartholo- mew's, 348 Madison avenue, David H. Greer; St. George's, 7 Rutherford place, Wm. S. Rainsford; St. Ignatius (ritualistic), 56 West Fortieth street, A. Ritchie; St. Mark's, Stuvvesant street and Second avenue, J. H. Rylance; St. Mary, the Virgin (ritualistic), 228 West Forty-fifth street, T. McK. Brown ; St. Thomas's, Fifth avenue and Fifty-third street, John W. Brown; Trans- figuration, 5 East Twenty-ninth street, George H. Houghton; Bishop, Henry C. Potter, Diocesan House, 29 Lafayette place. A Protestant Episcopal Cathedral is to be built on the site of the old Leake & Watts Orphan Asylum building, on high ground, just north- west of Central Park. There is also a Protestant Epis- copal City Mission, 68 Bleecker street, an interesting ministration of which is the City Prison Mission, Brock- hoist Morgan, missionary. Reformed Diiich. — Collegiate Middle Church, 14 La- fayette place, Talbot W. Chambers ; Fifth Avenue, Forty-eighth street and Fifth avenue, Edward B. Coe; Madison Avenue, Fifty-seventh street and Madison ave- nue, A. E. Kittredge; South Twenty-first street and Fifth Avenue, Roderick Terry. Roman Catholic. — St. Patrick's Cathedral, the finest church structure in America, Fiftieth and Fifty-first streets, and Fifth avenue, Archbishop Corrigan : St. Francis Xavier, David A. JMerrick; St. Paul, the Apos- tle, Fifty-ninth street and Ninth avenne, John McQuirk. There are 75 churches of this denomination. Unitarian. — All Souls (formerly Dr. Bellows') 245 Fourth avenue, T. C. Williams; Messiah, 61 East Thirty- fourth street, Robej't Collyer. Uyiiversalist. — Divine Paternity (formerly Dr. Cha- pin's), 538 Fifth avenue, C. H. Eaton. Synagogues. — Temple Emanu-El, 521 Fifth avenue, Gustav Gottheil. Beth-El, 817 Lexington avenue. Dr. Kohler; Ahavash Chesed, 652 Lexington avenue, Dr. Kohut. 4B FOREIGN CONSULS. Argcniiiie l^cpublic — (\ Cair.uizii, 60 W.-iU street. Austria-Hmigaiy — 'J\ A. Havenieyer, 88 J3 road way. Belgium — Chas. Mali, 829 Broadway. Bolivia — Melchor Obarrio, 178 Broadway. Brazil — A. T. de Macedo, 23 State street. Chili— F. A. Beelen, 15 Cortlaiidt street. China— Shen Woon, 26 West Ninth street. Colombia— Cliniaco Calderon, 16 Beaver street. Costa Rica — J. JNI. Munoz, 59 Liberty street. Denmark- Henri M. Bra^m, 69 Wall street, Dominican Republic — E. Henriquez, 81 Broadway. Ecuador — Domingo L. Ruiz, 51 Liberty street. France — Vicomte Paul d'Abzac, 4 Bowling Green. German Empire — August Feigel, 2 Bowling Green. Great Britain — Wm. Lane Booker. 24 State street. Greece — D. N. Botassi, 115 Pearl street. Guatemala — Jacob Baiz, 102 Front street. Hay ti— John Haustedt, 101 Pearl street. Hawaiian Islands— E. H. Allen, 51 Leonard street. Honduras- Jacob Baiz, 102 Front street. Italy— G. Paolo Riva, 22 State street. Japan — S. Fujii, 7 Warren street. Korea— Everett Frazer, 124 Water street. Liberia— Joseph W. Yates, 19 William street. Mexico — Juan N. Navarro, 35 Broadway. Monaco — James Dupas, 4 Bowling Green, Netherlands— J. R. Planten, 19 William street, Nicaragua — Alexander I, Cotheal, 140 Pearl street. Norway — Christopher Ravn, 41 Broad street. Peru — Juan Quintana, 19 Whitehall street. Portugal — Gustav Amsinek, 148 Pearl street. Russia — A. Greger, 22 State street. Siam — Isaac T. Smith, 58 West Thirty-sixth street, Spain — M. Suares Guanes, 30 Broadway. Sweden — Chistopher Ravn, 41 Broad street. Switzerland — J. Bertschmann, 69 Beaver street St. Domingo — E. Ilenriqucz, 31 Broadway. Turkey — Baltazzi Effendi, 132 Broadway.' Uruguay — Estrazulas, 120 Front street, Venezuela — Dr. Rafael Villavicencio, 18 Broadway. 49 BANKERS. Bankers. —August Belmont & Co., 120 Broad wav; Browi! Bros. & Co., 59 Wall street; Cheque Bank, '2 Wall street; Drexel, Morgan & Co., 23 Wall street; A. Tselin & Co., 36 Wall street; Eugene Kelly & Co., 45 Exchange place; Kessler & Co., 54 Wall street; Kidder, Peabody & Co., 15 Wall street; Knauth, Nachod & Kuhne, 5 S. William street; Kountze Bros., 120 Broad- way; Morton, Bliss & Co., 28 Nassau street; Post. Martin & Co., 45 Wall street; Roosevelt & Son, 33 Wall street; J. & W. Selignum & Co., 21 Broad street; Wins- low, Lanier & Co,, 17 Nassau street and 120 Broadway. BANKS. Following are the principal banks of the city. Nation- al: Bank of Commerce, 27 Nassau street; Bank of New York, 48 Wall street; Chemical, 270 Broadway; City, 52 Wall street; First, 2 Wall street; Importers and Traders, 247 Broadway; Mechanics, 33 Wall street; Park, 214 and 216 Broadway. State: Bank of Amer- ica, 46 Wall street; Bank of the Metropolis, 29 Union squai'e ; Bank of the State of New York, 33 William street; Fifth Avenue, 531 Fifth avenue; German-Amer- ican, 50 Wall street; Manhattan Company, 40 Wall street; Pacific, 470 Broadway. Savings BaiiJcs : Bank for Savings, 64 Bleecker street; Dry Dock, 343 Bowery; Emigrant and Industrial, 51 Chambers street; German, 157 Fourth avenue; Manhattan Savings Institution, 644 Broadway; Seamen's, 74 Wall street; Union Dime, 54 West Thirty-second street. POSTAL INFORMATION. General Post Office, Broadway and Park How. There are eighteen branch P. 0. Stations and twenty- one sub-stations, the latter in drug stores. Hotel guests can mail their letters and parcels at their hotel. Tliere are no deliveries on Sunday. Closing of foreign mails is advertised in the newspapers. The following is con- densed from the Neiv York Post Office Guide, copies of which can be obtained at the General Post Office. Pre- payment of postage is necessary. The rates for first, 50 second and tliird class inattcr Mpi>ly also to mail matter for Canada and Mexico. RATES OF POSTAGE. First class: Letters weighing one ounce or less, 2 cents; 2 cents 'additional for every extra ounce; postal cards, 1 cent. Second class : Newspapers or periodicals when sent by publisher or news agents, 1 cent a pound, or fraction thereof; otherwise, 1 cent for every 4 ounces, or fraction thereof. Third class : Printed matter un- sealed, including books, circulars, handbills, engravings, music, magazines, pamphlets, newspapers, proof-sheets and manuscripts accompanying same, 1 cent each 2 ounces, or fraction thereof ; limit of weight, 4 lbs., ex- cept for a single book, which may be more. Fourth class : AH mailable matter not included in preceding classes, prepared for mailing so as to be easily with- drawn and examined, 1 cent per ounce, or fraction thereof; but seeds, plants, cuttings, bulbs, roots and scions, are 1 cent for each 2 ounces. Foreign Postage : 5 cents for a single letter to all the countries belonging to the Postal Union; postal cards, 2 cents. To countries not belonging to the union the rates vary. UnmailaUe : Poisons, fresh fruits and vegetables, live animals, ex- plosives, and other dangerous articles or substances. MONEY-ORDERS. Domestic. — Obtained at the General Post Office, and at any of the branch or sub-stations, between the liours of 10 A. M. and 6 P. M. Applicant must fill up a blank form giving the amount he desires to send, the place at which it is to be ])aid, the name of the payee, and his own name. Fees: On orders not exceeding f5, 5 cents; over $5 and not exceeding $10, Scents; over $10 and not exceeding $15, 10 cents; over $15 and not exceeding $30, 15 cents; over $30 and not exceeding $40, 20 cents; over $40 and not exceeding $50, 25 cents; over $50 and not exceeding $60, 30 cents; over $60 and not exceeding $70, 35 cents; over $70 and not exceeding $80, 40 cents; over $80 and not exceeding $100, 45 cents. Interna- tional. — International money-ordei'S payable in the fol- lowing countries: Great Britain and Ireland, Canada, Germany, France, It.dy, Belgium, Switzerland, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Portugal, Netherlands, Luxemburg, 51 Austi-o-IIungary, New Soutli Wales, Queensland, Vic- toria, New Zealand, South Australia, West Australia, Tasmania, British India, Japan, Hawaii, Jamaica, Cape Colony, Eg'vpt, Constantinople, Hong Kong, Bermuda, Gibraltar, Iceland, Natal, Windward Islands, Leeward Islands, Ceylon, Falkland Islands, Straits Settlements (Singapore, Penang and Malacca), Gambia, ^lauritius, St. Helena, Trinidad, Malta, Tangier, Beyrout, Salonica, Azores and Madeira Islands. Fees: On orders not ex- ceeding .flO, 10 cents; over $10 and not exceeding $20, 20 cents; over $20 and not exceeding $30, 30 cents; over $30 and not exceeding $40, 40 cents; over $40 and not exceeding $50, 50 cents; over $50 and not exceeding $60, 60 cents; over $60 and not exceeding $70, 70 cents; over $70 and not exceeding $80, 80 cents; over $80 an(l not exceeding $90, 90 cents; over $90 and not exceeding $100, $1. Obtainable at the General Post Office and all branch offices, except M, S and T. POSTAL NOTES. Postal Notes, good for three months, are issued for any sum frotn one cent to four dollars and ninety-nine cents ($4.99) inclusive, but not for anyfractional part of a cent, at a uniform fee of thi'ee cents. They can be purchased at the General Post Office or at any branch station or sub-station, and are payable at any money-order office in the United States, including branch stations and sub-stations in New York. They are })ayable to bearer, and no identification is required. PARCELS POST. Under conditions, which may be ascertained at the General Post Office, branch or sub-stations, unsealed parcels of merchandise not over 11 pounds may be sent by parcels post to Jamaica, Barbadoes, Bahamas, British Honduras, Mexico, Sfindwich Islands, Lee- ward Islands, Colombia, Costa Kica, and Salvadoi-. REGISTRATION. Domestic and foreign letters and pai-cels may be registered at a fee of ten cents in postage stamps. POSTE RESTANTE. Advertised Domestic 3Iail JIatter. — All domestic (except local) letters, book })ackets, and packages of 52 merchandioe (also those from Great Britain, Ireland or British Colonies) which liave renmined undelivered for two weeks and which do not boar the names and ad- dresses of the senders (except those addressed to street and number, which are advertised as soon as they are returned by cat rier as being undeliverable) are advertised at New York twice a week. The advertised lists of such mutter are also displayed in the lobbies of the General Post Office. Undelivered local letters are not advertised, but remain at the Poste Restante for thirty days await- ing call, and if then unclaimed are sent to the Dead Letter Office, Washington. Advertised Foreign Mail Matter. — All letters, book packets, and packages, of apparent value, arriving from foreign countries and found to be undeliverable through the ordinary methods, are treated as follows : 1. If addressed ''Poste Restante,''' or ''to he called for,'' they are retained, awaiting call, for two months, before being advertised. 2. If addressed to street and number, but found undeliverable, they are advertised as soon as returned by carriers. 3. If addressed" Post Office " only, they are retained fifteen days and then are advertised. All are retained awaiting call for four weeks after being advertised, and all then unclaimed are sent to the Dead Letter Ollice. Mail matter of foreign origin (except that from Great Britain, Ireland and British Colonies) re- maining uncalled for at the New York Office is advertised in newspapers printed in the languages of the countries in which such matter originates. Fee for Advertising. — A charge of one cent is made on the delivery of each article of advertised mail matter, to cover the cost of advertising. SPECIAL DELIVERY. Letters and packages are delivered by special ines- senger if, in addition to the regular postage, a 10 cent special delivery stamp is affixed. TELEPHONE. New York and its suburbs are served by the ^retro|)ol- itan Telephone and Telegraph Company, which has numerous offices. There is, also, a long-distance tele- phone service. 53 MESSENGER SERTICE. Messenger service is maintained by tlie American Dis- trict Telegrapli Company and the Mutual District Mes- senger Company. These companies liave numerous offices, and messengers can be summoned from most of the hotels. EXPRESS SERVICE. Domestic and Railway Expresses can be ordered at most of the hotels, the companies calling for the baggage or parcels. Foreign express matter should be delivered at the offices of the following: American Express Co., 65 Broadway; American E uropea7i Uxpjxss {Bsihlwin Brothers & Co.), office, 53 Broadway; Bermuda and New York Express, 15 Mur- ray street ; Conlanseau's Rapid Foreign Express Co., 71 Broadway and 653 Sixth avenue; Cutajar & Co.''s Express, 55 and 57 Beaver street; Davies, Turner & Co., American, Foreign and European Express Co., 40 Broad- way; E. Losee's European Express, 111 Broadway, basement; Foreign Express Co. (Limited), 15 Murray street; Hampton Jr. & Co. E.cpress, 40 Exchange place; Hensel, Bruckman & Lorbacher, 25 William street; Langes European Express, 49 Exchange place; 3Iorris Europt'an & American Express Co.y 18 Broadway ; R. F. Bowing & Co.'s Foreign, Express, 20 Exchange place and 65 Beaver street; Piti S Scott's Foreign Express, 35 and 37 Broadway; ScotVs Foreign Delivery, 157 Broadway; Steglich & Baese (European Parcel), 76 William street; The Internationcd Express, 47 Broad- way; TJic Transatlantic Express {^. Terkuile), 31 and 33 Broadway; United Foreign Express Co., 71 Bi'oadway and 659 Sixth avenue; United States Express Co., 49 Broadway; Universal Express, J. ]\[etzger & Co., 30 Broadway; Wells, Fargo S Co.' s European Express, 63 Broadway. The American Express Co., United States Express Co. and Wells, Fargo & Co., have branche .; in various parts of the city. TELEGRAPH AM) CABLE RATES. Telegraph and cable i-ates are apt to vary, but will generally be found at or near the rates given below, 54 which are those now in force. These give a good gen- eral i(h^a of the cost of telegraphing in New York, and from New York to other points in the United States and CaiVfida, and other foreign countries. Except in cable messages the " i)lace from," date, address jiiid signature are not charged for. In cable messages eveiy word written by the sender is charged for. The Western Union, which is the largest telegraph company in the United States, has its main office at Broadway and Dey street. The principal branch offices, Fifth avenue and Twenty-third street and 16 Broad street, are connected by pneumatic tubes with the main office. There are branch offices in the principal hotels, exchanges, the post-office and railway stations, and at many other points in the city. Day and night offices: Broadway and Dey street; 599 Broadway (near Houston street); 854 I^roadway (near Fourteenth street): Fifth avenue and Twenty-third street; Broadway and Twenty- ninth street; Sixth avenue and Forty-seventh street; 134 East One Hundred and Twenty-fifth street. Telegraph Rates. — Rates for messages of ten words or under (numbei's must be spelled out): Local, 20 cents; to Baltimore, Md., 25 cents; Boston, Mass., 25 cents; Chicago, 111., 40 cents; Cincinnati, O., 40 cents; Gal- veston, Texas, 75 cents; Montreal and Quebec, 40 cents; New Orleans, La., 60 cents; Omaha, Neb., 50 cents; Philadelphia, 20 cents; Pittsburg, Pa., 25 cents; St. Louis, Mo., 40 cents;. Salt Lake City, Utah, 75 cents; San Francisco, Cal., $1; Washington, D. ('., 25 cents. Words in excess of ten are charged at considerably lower rates, as ai'e also night messages. Cable Rates.- — Cable messages can be sent from \\\v main offices and branches of the Western Union and other cable companies at the following rates per word : Great Britain, Ireland, France, Germany, 25 cents; Bernuulas, 81 cents; Belgium, 81 cents; Denmark, 35 cents; Holland, 33 cents: Sweden, 39 cents; Norway, 35 cents; Switzerland, 31 cents; Hungary, 36 cents; Italy, 34 cents; Russia, 43 cents; Egypt — Alexandria, 58 cents; Cape Colony, $2.43: Japan, $2.11; Australia, $2.54 to $2.08; India, $1.31; South AmericH: Ecuador, $1.84; Peru, $1.82 to $2.66; Chili, $2.25: Argentine Republic, $1.82 to $2.13; Uruguay, $2: Brazil, $1.69 55 to $2.13; Colon and Panama, 97 cents; Havana, 40; St. Thomas, |1.96. STORES. Antiquities AND Bric-a-brac. — Sypher& Co., 246 Fifth avenue; A. A. Vantine & Co. (Oriental). 879 Broadway. Booksellers. — Baker-Taylor Co., 74U Broadway; J. W. Bouton, 706 Broadway and 8 West Twenty-eighth street; Brentano's, 5 Union Square (also large dealers in periodicals) ; F. W. Christern, 254 Fifth avenue (French); C. T. Dillingham, 720 Broadway; Dodd, Mead & Co., Broadway and Clinton place (also large dealers in rare books); E. P. Dutton & Co., 31 West Twenty-third street; David G. Francis, 12 East Fifteenth street; W. M. Goldthwaite, 107 Nassau street (maps and guides); Hunt «& Eaton, 150 Fifth avenue; Ivison, Blakeman & Co., 806 Broadway; W. R. Jenkins, 851 Sixth avenue; Leggat Bros., 81 Chambers street; S. B. Luyster, 98 Nassau street; Henry Miller, 65 Nassau street; G. P. Putnam's Sons, 27 West Twentv-third street; Rand, McNally& Co., 323 Broadway; A.' D. F. Randolph, 38 West Twenty-third street; Chas. Scribner's Sons, 745 Broadway; GustavE. Stechert, 828 Broadway (German); E. Steige'r & Co., 25 Park place (German); P. A. Stokes & Co,. 182 Fifth avenue; B. Westermann & Co., 812 liroadway (German); Worthington Co., 747 Broadway; Harper & Bros., Franklin square and D. Appleton & Co., Bond street, near Broadway, deal only in their own publications. Boots and Shoes. — W. Arnold, 44 West Twenty-third street; A. J. Cammeyer, 167 Sixth avenue; G. Cantrell, 25 West Twenty-third street; W. McClenahan, 58 East Twenty-third street; J. & J. Slater, 1185 Broadway. Canes. — See Jleris Furnishing Goods. Carpets and Rugs. — W. & J. Sloane, 884 Broadway; A. A. Vantine & Co. (Oriental), 879 Broadway. Children's Outfits. — Best & Co., West Twenty-third street. China AND Glass. — Bawo&Dotter, 30 Barclay; Davis CoUamore, 921 Broadway and 151 Fifth avenue; Gilinan Collamore, 284 Fifth avenue; Frank Haviland, 14 Bar- clay; Wilhelm & Graef, 1141 Broadway; A. A. Vantine & Co. (Oriental), 879 Broadway. 56 Cigars and Tobacco. — Cigars can be purchased at liotels, cafes and restaurants, and at tlie large groceries. Tobacco may be purchased at the large groceries. Cigar and tobacco stores are numerous. Art Stokes. — S. P. Avery, Jr., 368 Fifth avenue; Boussod, Valadon & Co. ; Knoedler & Co. (Goupil's), 170 Fifth avenue; Keichard & Co., 226 Fifth avenue; William Schauss, 204 Fifth avenue. Engravings and Etchings.— ¥. Keppel & Co., 20 East Sixteenth street; C. Klackner, 5 East Seventeenth street; H. Wunderlich & Co., 868 Broadway. Confectioners. — Huyler, 150 and 863 Broadway and 21 West Forty-second' street; Maillard, 120, 178 and 1097 Broadway. Dressmakers. — B. Altnian & Co.. 301 Sixth avenue; Arnold, Constable k Co.. Broi^Iway and Isineteenth street; Donovan, 282 Madison avenue; Everall Bros., 236 Fifth avenue (tailor-made) ; Ghorniley, 45 East Xineteenth street; Krakauer, 391 Fifth avenue; Red- fern. 210 Fifth avenue; Stern Bros., 32 W. Twenty- third street. Dry Goods.— B. Altman & Co., 301 Sixth avenue; Aitken, Son & Co., 873 Broadway; Arnold, Constable & Co., Broadway and Nineteenth streets: Bloomingdale Bros., 996 Third avenue ; John Daniell & Sons. 761 Broad- way; E. J. Denning & Co., successor to A. T. Stewart & Co., Broadway and Tenth street (have also general house furnishings); Ehrich Bros., 365 Sixth avenue; J. A. Hearn & Son, 26 to 30 West Fourteenth street; H. C. F. Koch & Co., 319 Sixth avenue; Leboutillier Bros., 845 Broadway and 48 East Fourteenth street; Leboutillier Bros., 50 West Twenty-third street; J. Lichtenstein & Sons, 281 Grand street; Lord «& Taylor, 895 Broadway and 257 Grand street; James McCreery «& Co., 801 Broadway; J. McCutcheon & Co. (linens), 64 West Twenty-third street; R. H. Macy & Co., Fourteenth street and Sixth avenue (have also general house furnish- ings); E. A. Morrison, Broadway near P]ighteenth street; H. O'Neill & Co., 321 Sixth avenue; PMward Ridley & Sons, 301 Grand street; Simpson, Crawford & Simpson, 309 Sixth avenue; Stern Bros., 32 West Twenty-third street; A, A, Vantine & Co. (Oriental), 879 Broadway, Florists. — Bebus, 1.1 '3 Broadway; Hanft Brothers, 224 Fifth avenue; Hodgson, 545 Fifth avenue; Khinder Co., 1144 Broadway; MeConnell, 546 Fifth avenue; Stuinpp, G15 Madison avenue. Furriers. — C. G. Gunther's Sons, 184 Fifth avenue; Jaeckel, 11 East Nineteenth street; Shayne, 103 Prince and 124 West Forty-second streets. Furniture Dealers. — Cottier & Co., 144 Fifth avenue; Herter Brothers, 154 J^'iftli avenue; Herts Brothers, 894 Broadway ; -Marcotte «& Co., 298 Fifth avenue; Pottier, Stynius & Co., 375 Lexington avenue; Roux & Co., 133 Fifth avenue. Glovers. — Harris Brothers, 865 Broadway. See also Dry Goods. Haberdashers. — See lien's Furnishing Goods. Harness. — Deinarest & Co., 51 Warren street; Wood Gibson, 222 Fifth avenue; J. Newton Van Ness & Co., 50 Warren and 120 Chambers streets. Hats.— Dunlap & Co., 181 Broadway anr()thersi>t' the Christian Si'htH)ls, ivoeive u eonunou sc-hool eilneation and aie tanuht trades. The girls, who are in eharge of the Sisters of Chanty, receive n common sc1uh)1 education and are taught industrial emplovments. Cared for o.o'2() last year. Chihlreii's Aid Socittt/, 24 St. Mark's plact', seeks to elevate }H>or chiUlren by gathering thi>sc who attend no schools into its induslrial si-hools, caring and l^roviiling for homeless I'hildren in its loilging-liouscs, and procuring homes lor them in the rural districts in the West. Under proper conditions the Sin-iety will as- sist families with children to the South and West. It luid charge last year of oS.^^oo children. Its most inter- esting lotlging-house and st'hool is tiie Newsboys' Lodging House (.page 142). yire Puiiifs JJotise of Indiistri/. la,") Worth street (page 147). Five Points Jtlission, (il Park street (page 145). Jlchreio Benevolent and Orphan Asi/tnm, New Amsterdam avenue and One Hundred and Thirty-sixth street. Institution for the Deaf and T>uml), Eleventh avenue and One Hundred and Sixty- third street, for the free education of the deaf and dumb without regard to the circumstances of the parents, ex- cept that they must reside in the State of New Vm-k. The chiklren are taught various trades by which they may supj>ort themselves on leaving the institution. Isabella Home, New Amsterdam avenue and One Hun- dred and Ninetieth street, foiuided by Oswald Ottendor- fer in memory of ins wife. A home for the care and nuiintenance of aged indigent persons over (50 years of aLre, without distiiu-tion as to age, creed, color or natiiMi- ality, anil a hospital and dispensary for chronic invalids and convalescents. Juvenile Asf/luni, One Hundred and Seventy-sixth street and New Amsterdam avenue, a refonnatory for vicious children of both sexes be- tween the ages of 7 and 14 years. Visiting days at the asylum: Ijast Thursday of each month. * St. John's Guild, 21 University }>lace, organizes water excursions for sick children in summer and manitains a seaside nursery at Cedar Oiove, Nt>w I>orj), Staten Is- laiul. She/terini/ Arms, New Amsterdam avenue ami One Hundred and Twenty-ninth street. Fov the care of homeless and destitute children from 5 to \2 years of age, for whom no other institution provides, such as I 63 those who are at once l)llnosing in any view of which the bridge is not a part. On fair days the steamer plying between the Battery and Bedloe's Island is crowded every trip. Admission to the pedestal and statue is free, a s])ecial permit being, however, lequired for admission to the right arm and torch. These permits are issued by the Major General commanding the Department of the Atlantic on Gover- 72 nor's Island, and by the Engineer and Inspector of the Third Lighthouse District, Tompkinsville, Staten Island. One liundred and seventy-three steps lead to the balcony on the pedestal ; one hundred and sixty-four from the balcony to the head, which will comfortably hold forty people; and fifty-six from the head up the arm to the balcony around the torch, which will hold twelve people. In all, therefore, the steps number three hundred and ninety-three. Before beginning the ascent visitors are obliged to check overcoits, wraps, canes, umbrellas, etc., with the guard, who also lets out lanterns for a small fee. As the passage np and down the spiral stair- ways within the statue itself is in places very dark, the use of lanterns is advisable. The ascent to the balcony is easy, and one which all visitors should make, as from this point a superb view of New York and of the East River Bridge is had. Governor's Island, with its green mounds and its fortifications mellowed by age; the superb sweep of the waters of the harbor around tlie Bat- tery into the North and East rivers, the cluster of towers and spires and the noble span of the bridge, a model of strength and grace — these are the chief elements in a view in which the grand and the picturesque are won- derfully harmonized. The ascent through the statue itself is arduous, and should not be attempted by any one who is nervous or not in prime physical condition. There are windows in the diadem from which a magnifi- cent view is to be had, and that from the torch balcony is still grander. The statue forms part of the light-house system of the United States, there being nine duplex electric lights in the torch. This light is visible 24^^ miles at sea, or jnore than ten miles beyond the outside light-ship. Be- side this there are five single arc lamps on the salients of the fort within which the statue stands, so that the light will be thrown on tlie statue, thus making it even more striking by night than by day. This beacon is not included in the system of lights for New York har- bor. As many as 1,500 birds have killed themselves in a single night, flying against the lighted torch. Ellis Island. — The facilities of the Barge Office, (p. 76), having proved entirely inadequate to dispose. quickly of the immigration passing through it, there has just been completed on Ellis Island, which lies be- tween Bedloe's Island and the New Jersey shore, a new landing depot for immigrants. Ellis Island, area two-and-a-half acres, was formerly the site of Fort Giljson, dismantled in 1861, when the island was occuj^iedas a naval magazine. It at onetime belonged to the Ellis estate, and every child born on it has been christened Ellis. Nearly fifty years ago, three pirates, nmong them the noted Gibbs, wei-e executed there. The superstitious Battery boatmen tell a roman- tic story about a young girl, who assisted her soldier lover to escape from confinement on the Island in a boat, but the boat was capsized and both were drowned, and the boatmen are fully convinced that the spirits of these two lovers are seen strolling along the beach of the island, arm in arm, on the night of the anniversary of their deatii. Ellis Island is reached by ferry from the Battery. In an indentation on the south side is a fine basin 800 feet long by 200 feet wide. The dirt dredged from this basin was used to add to the area of the island. The island is jn'otected on the northeast side by a crib-work breakwater, 356 feet long and 40 feet wide, which runs past the opening of the basin so as to keep it clear from all obstructions. A short distance back from the basin, facing it and the Nari'ows, is the building for the recep- tion and regis! ration of immigrants. The n)ain struc- ture is 250 feet long by 200 feet wide, with two wings, one story in height, 120 feet long and 80 feet wide, so that the entire frontage is 490 feet. Four towers, each four stories high, rise at each corner, and in the front center is a pediment with three story towers on each side. On the first floor are the general, local and railroad bng- gage offices and offices for baggage checkers. On the east end of the second story are I'ooms for the officials. The offices of the physicians and the receiving hospital are in a separate building. Immigrants enter double door-ways on either side of the main entrance, and pass upstairs into three compartnuMits, after which they pass tlii'cmgh narrow aisles before the registry clerks. North of these rooms are two large waiting-rooms. West of 74 tlio regie^try depart nieiit. on the sot-oiul floor, are the telei;ra}>h otViees, money exehaiiue. ami the railnmil and ticket ollues, Drinkinu' water is furnij^lieil from artesian wells. Immiiirants. liavinij: been registered, and having pmvliased railroad tiekets or met their friends, }>roeeed tlownstairs to the baggage-room and piek out their bag- gage. As immigrants from all i)arts of tiie "world come tt>"New' York, it is necessary that the registry clerks speak from six to eight hinguages. There are, besides the otVu'ial attendants, a number of missionaries ^Yho distribute Bibles, and are also ready to give advice to immigrants. The f)hysicians in charge t>f the dispensary give treatment on the spot, or in serious cases transfer the patient to some hospital. About five hundred people a numth are treated, imnngrants being entitled to free treatment iov a year after the date of arrival. The number of immigrants of all nationalities — and it is most interesting to watch the sti'ange faces and costumes of those wlu^ pour into the country out (^f this otRce — in 1800 was orHJ.olO. In 1888 the number was 383,095, and in 1880, 455.000. Goveknor's Island. — On Governor's Island, ijo acres in area, and a mile and a quarter in circumference, situated abont 1,000 yards oft" the Battery, ami separated from the Brooklyn shore by what is known as Buttermilk cliannel, formerly so shallow that there was at low tide land connection between Governor's and Long Islantls, are the headiiuarters of the !\lilitary PepartnuMit of the Atlantic. It is reached by governnuMit steand)oat from foot of Whitehall street. The Island is well shaded and swarded, having been in the earlier days of the Dutch settlement one of the richest pastures in the province. Its most striking fea- ture from the water is Castle \Villian\ on the northwest point, a stone work completed in 1811. witli three tiers of casemates from whieh cannon protrude. On the sea- wall in front of it is the sunset gun, which is discharged at sunset as a sigmd to vessels to display their lights. ()n the northern shore of the Islaml is the New York arsenal of the Uuiteil Statt>s Ordnance IVpartment, the ground being covered by pyiamids of cannon-balls and by large guns. A little Iteycnd this is a budding u\ which the United Slates .Vlilitarv Service Institiition 75 inuiiiljiins a military nnisfMini, jinioii^llio olijcctsof in- terest bein^ IIm; weli-inounled slulTed skin of Kien/i, tli(; cliarger who bore (iciienil Slieridjui oti liis ffinious dash of tw(.'iity miles from Winchester to Five Forks, where his timely arrival turned a route into a victory for the Union arms. Foi't ('olumbus, a stonework containing several commodious buildini^s used chiefly as adminis- trative ofTices, is situated at about the center of the Isl- jind. The parade ^n-ound is a beautiful stretch of smooth lawn. T\\t exceed one shilling? each man. which each person is to pay to the Treasm*er at their respective meeting." On the same wall hangs a fac-simile of a hand-bill, which Fraunces issued September 10, 1770, when he again became proprietor of the tavern. This hand-bill reads: " On Thursday the 20th instant, will be opened the Queen's- Head Tavern near the Exchange, for many years kept by the subscriber, (late by Bolton & Siegel), is now fitting up in the most genteel and convenient manner for tlie Iveception and En- tertainment of tliose genth^men. Ladies and otliers. who may please to favor him with tlieir company. As the best clubs and 81 the greatest entertainmeiits in this city were at the above tav- ern, in the time of the subscriber, he flatters himself the pub- lic are so well satisfied of his ability to serve them as to render the swelling of an advertisement useless other than to assure his former friends, and the public in general, that every en- deavor will be used to give them the highest satisfaction, and the utmost respect on all occasions shown by their already much obliged and very Obedient servant, Samuel Fraunces. N. B.— Dinners and suppers dressed to send out for lodgers and others who live at a convenient distance. Also cakes, tarts, jellies, whip-siliybubs, blaiimage, sweetmeats, etc., in any quan- tity, cold meat in small quantities, beefsteaks, etc., at any hour, pickled oysters for the West Indies or elsewhere." In this famous room where the beaux and belles of old New York feasted, during the intervals between danc- ing, on tarts and sillylnibs, the guest can now sit down to a meal of h^rankfurter sausages and sauerkraut. Produce Exchange, — On the east side of Whitehall street the block between Stone and Beaver streets is oc- cupied by the superb fire-proof granite, brick, terra cotta and iron building of the New York Produce Exchange, finished May 1, 1884. The building is 300x150 feet, and opens on the northeast side upon a broad terrace. Prom the street to the roof of tlie main structure the heigiit is 116 feet, to the coping of the tower 225 feet, aiul to the top of flag-staif 306 feet. The tower clock measures 12 feet in diameter, each number on its face is a foot in length, and the flag 50 feet by 20 feet is said to be the largest ever made. Tlie ground floor is occu- pied by the Produce Exchange Bank, a branch of the United States Post-office, the Western Union Telegraph Company, the chief New York branch of the Penn- sylvania Railroad Company and the Maritime Exchange. On the second floor is the enormous hall of the ex- change, 220 feet by 141 feet, and 60 feet high to the sky- light. It is said that 7,000 men could transact business comfortably on this floor. The long tables provided with drawers and compartments contain samples of various articles dealt in on the exchange, and are leased to men bers. Wheat is dealt in aronnd a circular series of steps sunk into the floor of the exchange and called the jiit. Scattei-ed over this room are telegraph and telephone booths, tables for reporters and boards on which the prices are listed, Back of the pit is what is known as the call-room, in which 500 seats arranged like those of an amphitheatre ascend from the floor. Here grain and and provisions are dealt in. On the third floor there is a visitors' gallery, from which the bustling life of the exchange may be watched. Of course, the business is transacted in a much quieter manner than that of the Stock Exchange (p. 98). There is a steady hum, and at times perha[)S a roar, l)ut there is a certain continuity of sound here, very diffei-ent from the screeches and yells so characteristic of the Stock Exchange. On the third floor are rooms for various officers and commit- tees, and in the reception-room is a large picture of the laying of the corner stone in which numerous portraits are introduced. Above this are four stories of offices. In the basement are vaults for deposit and storage, and Turkish and Russian baths. A feature of the Produce Exchange that is appreciated by about 300 visitors daily, is the tower, built in the style of a campanile and i-eached by one of the elevators on the Stone street side which ascends 14 stories; a flight of stairs leading one story flight r to the roof. From here is had a supei'b view of the city and its environs. Everything lies spread out to beholders like a map. To tlie south is Battery Park, the Barge Office and the un- dulating line of tiie elevated road as it curves around to- wards Greenwich street. Governor's Island, Bedloe's Island lie like restful spots of green in the shimmering expanse of harbor. Bt-yond are the Narrows. 1'he view to the west embraces Brooklyn Heights, the East River Bridge and the East river as far as the bend which it makes towards the east. Nearer by is the Cotton Ex- change, a yellow biick building on Hanover sqnare. Straight norih is a view of Broad street and Wall street, and above the roofs on Broadway is Trinity spire. The Hudson river can be followed up as far as the beginning of the Palisades. To the west are the Orange INlountains, and nearer by Castle Garden and the Washington Build- ing at No. 1 Broadway. The Produce Exchange represents a total expenditure of about 13,200,000. The following statistics in regard to the material employed will be of interest as showing the grand scale on which buildings in Xew York are erected: It consumed 12.000,000 brick, 15 miles of iron girder. If miles of columns, 2,061 tons of terra cotta, 7^ miles of sash cords and chains, and 21) miles of steam pipes. The elevators carry about 23,000 people a day. The first meeting of an Exchange in New York was on a bridge which, at Exchange Place, crossed the ditch once running through Broad street. This was March 24, 1670. The first Exchange building was erected in 1690, at the foot of Broad street. In 1754 the Eoyal Exchange was built ui)on arches over a canal at the foot of Broad street. From this the Exchange went to the Merchants' Exchange, now the United States Custom House in Wall street. The New York Produce Ex- change assumed its name and succeeded to the rights of various bodies in 1808. It was then located at tlie cor- ner of Wliitehall and Pearl streets, the l)uilding having been erect(Ml in 1860. The present site was purchased in 1880. The membership of the Exchange is limitwl to 2,000. It is coutrolled by a President, Vice-Presi- dent. Treasurer and twelve Maiuigers, who together con- stitute the Board of Managei's. Besides arbitration committees for each trade a|)p()inted by the President, there is a general final arbitration comnuttee of five members not managers, elected by ballot of the Board. Attendance of witnesses is compulsory, and no appeal is admissible unless fraud or corruption is alleged. A comi)hunt committee takes cognizance of accusations against members, and seeks to restore hai'inony or to in- duce ai'bitration; if the committee fails in these points, the dispute is referred to the Board of Managers, whose action is final. The rooms of the Exchange are open for 84 business fr'^m 9 A. M. to 4 P. M., excepting Saturdays, when the Exchange takes a half-holiday. The Exchange is believed to do the largest business of any similar insti- tution in the world. A few statistics will give an idea of the amount of business transacted on the Exchange: In 1889 2,947,005 barrels of flour were dealt in; 1,123,148.600 bushels of wheat; 258. 185,800 bushels of corn; 90.108,000 bushels of oats; 828,050 bushels of rve; 1,817.150 bushelsof bar- ley; 78.080 barrels of pork; 1,029,855 tierces of lard, and 21,569.000 pounds of tallow. The Maritime Eixhanye, to the left of the Beaver street entrance, is open from 8 A. M. to 5 P. M. Its large membership is composed chiefly of persons inter- ested directly or indirectly in maritime commerce. It reports maritime and commercial news, and more espec- ially furnishes a record of the movements of vessels in advance of the daily papers. It has an excellent mari- time library, and tiie Hydrographic Office of the Navy De[)artment, which publishes the valuable llonthly Pilot Chart, has its quarters in the Exchange. For a fee of $1 the Exchange will send to any point in the city no- tice of the arrival of a vessel in time for the person no- tified to reach the wharf befoi'e the vessel Bowling Green. — The site now inclosed by Bowling Green, Whitehall, Bridge and State streets is perhaps the most interesting liistorical portion of the city. This was the original lower end of Manhattan Island, and within its limits, early in tlie spring of 1615, a small log- fort was erected. In 1626 this small fort was replaced by a red cedar i)alisade surrounding a storehouse, the whole being erected by an engineer brought over for that special purpose by Minuit. It could not have been a, very formidal)le fortification, for there is a tradition that a goat which once assumed the offensive was able to fight its way through the palisades. Near by it the erection of the first church on Manhattan Island (Re- formed Dutch) was begun in 1633 (p. 124). The fort was demolisjied in 1787, and a Government 85 lioiise was built, it being then supposed that the United States Government would be permanently located in New York. It was a stately red brick structure, v;ith Ionic columns. After the seat of government was re- moved to Philadelphia it served as a residence for the State Governors, among them George Clinton and Jay, but became, soon after the beginning of the present cen- tury, the United States custom-house. It was taken down in 1815, and the present block of houses now occu- pied by steamship offices and foreign consulates was put up for purposes of residence. Bowling Green is the old drill-ground in front of the sallyport of the ancient fort. Two roads ran from it, one along tiie present line of Broadway as far as City Hall Park, the other to the Long Island Ferry at what is now Peck Slip. In 1659,and for thirty years thereafter.Bowling Green was the scene of an annual cattle fair which drew great crowds to town, many inducements being held'out to visitors, among them exemption from liability to arrest for debt. In 1732, the space in front of the fort was leased to several residents on Broadway, and was converted into a bowling green. In the fall of 1770, about the time the angry feelings which finally led to the Revolution had been temporarily subdued by concessions on the part of Great Britain, a leaden equestrian statue of George III arriv^ed and was erected on Bowling Green, the space being inclosed by an iron railing built by the city at a cost of £800. Statue and railing stood until the evening of July 9, 1770, when the Declaration of Indei)endence having been read from the City Hall in Wall street, they were demolished by theexciteil soldiers and populace. The statue was hewn to pieces and sent to Oliver Wolcott, at Litchfield, Connecticut, whose wife and daughters manufactured 42.000 bullets from the lead. When, during the Revolution, Connecticut was invaded by the British, 400 Briii-^h soldiers were slain by bullets made from the statue of their King, Broadway runs out of Bowling Green on the line of the old road which extended straight up to City Hall Park. No. 1 Bt'oadivay. — No. 1 Broadway, which occui)ies the west corner at the beginning of this great thorough- 86 fare, is not only a handsome and important office-build- ing, but it also stands upon a site of considerable historic interest. Here stood the Kennedy mansion, built in 1745 by Archibald Kennedy, the eleventh earl of Cassilis. It would be considered a fine dwelling even to-day. It was entered through a.handsomely carved doorway, the halts were wide, the staircases broad and the rooms spacious. The parlor measured about fifty feet in length, and opened through an arch ui)onaporch which could accommodate a cotillon. No. 8 Bioadway was the Watts mansion, and the two houses were connected by a bridge, so that when large entertainments were given they could be thrown into one. The gardens extended to the North River and were overlooked by broad piazzas. General Putnam had his headquarters at this house, and here, July 20. 1776, Washington received Colonel Patterson, Lord Howe's Adjutant-General, who came charged with what the British considered conciliatory overtures. Lord Howe had sought previously to communicate with Washington, in a letter addressed ''George Washington, Esq." This the American Commander-in-chief had de- clined to receive. At the meeting at the Kennedy house Colonel Patterson produced a letter addressed "George Washington, Esq., etc., etc., etc.," explaining that the three etceteras were intended to cover Washington's official title. Washington declined to receive any com- munication not addressed to him by his full official title, saying that the etceteras might mean anything. Colonel Patterson then communicated verbally the substance of the letter, namely, that Lord and General Howe were empowered to pardon the rebellious colonists. The American Commander-in-chief replied that the colonists had committed no wrong which required pardon. The interview was without result other than to induce the Howes to address Washington by his official title in future. Washington entertained C^olonel Patterson at a collation at whicii he met the American General's offi- cers. In taking leave he asked Washington, '"Has your Excellency no command to my Lord or General Howe?" " None, sir," was the reply, " but my particular compli- ments to both of them." In 17S0, after Benedict Arnold's treason had been dis- covereil and he had escaped into the English lines, he I 87. had quarters at the Kennedy house. About 33 years ago this was converted into the Washington Hotel, which in turn gave way to the present building. To stand at the head of Bowling Grreen and look up Broadway, gives one a contituious sense of motion as the crowds pour like a'steady stream up and down the street. Horse cars and other vehicles of all description are also in line, moving up or down town. Broadway is gradually being transformed into a lane between huge office buildings. The smaller structures are giving way and their giant successors are rearing their heads aloft. From the head of Bowling Green the most conspicuous is the huge granite building which runs through an L from Broadway to Beaver street, and is known as the Wells building, 18 Broadway. Adjoining it is the Stand- ard Oil Building, a granite pile as massive as the wealth which built it. Running from 41 to 45 Broadway is Aldrich Court. Tliis and the site occupied by No. 39 Broadway, a small brown-stone office building, stands upon the ground where the first habitation of white men on Manhattan Island was located. An early American explorer, Captain Adrian Block, whose vessel, the Tiger, had been destroyed by fire, erected four houses or huts here for himself and his men in November, 1613. This same Captain Block (after whom Block Island is named) built a new vessel called the Unrest, of 38 feet keel, 441^ feet on deck, and lli^ feet beam, which, except the canoes of the aborigines, was the first vessel launched in the waters of New York. Aldrich Court is an effective piece of architecture of brick upon a granite base. The Tower l:)uilding at 50 Broadway, witli its 11 stories, is a remarkable example of a clever utilization of a narrow plot of ground. At the north-east corner of Broadway and Exchange place is the handsome building of the Consolidated 4 Stock and Petroleum Excliaiige, a rival of the Stock Exchange. In 1887, while the New York Stock Ex- change held its meetings in a room of the Mercliants' Exchatige, now the Custom House, an open board of brokers in opposition to it was organized in the Rotunda. Unable to force itself into the regular Stock Exchange room, its members cut away portions of the beams and dug out bricks at points in the flooring and walls of the board room, and obtained quotations by listening at the holes so made. This open board, however, proved a failure. A second one was organized in 1868 in a Williams street basement, sarcastically called "The Coal-hole." It gained members enough and did sufficient business to force the reguhir Exchange into a consolida- tion. The Stock Exchange lias, however, never had so great a rival as the Consolidated Stock and Petroleum Exchange, which originated in 1875 as the New York Mining Stock Exchange, and has by consolidation with various other Exchanges acquired its present name and influence. It moved into its liandsome new building in April, 1888. This fronts 91 feet on Broadway, 132 on Exchange place, and 87 on New street. The board-room contains nearly 10,000 square feet of space, and the ven- tilating and lighting appliances are of the best. At 80 Broadway is the huge yet graceful granite structure of the Union Trust Co., built by George B. Post. It is one of the handsomest buildings in the city, and a fine example of Romanesque, now being widely introduced. It fronts 72 feet on Broadway and is 190 feet high. Trinity Church. — On the west side of Broadway, at the head of Wall street, is the most famous church edifice in the United States, Trinity Church, which, with its ancient graveyard, forms a wonderfully restful spot at the junction of the two greatest business arteries of New York, and, indeed, of the New World. No greater contrast can possibly be imagined than the sense of peace which overcomes one when entering Trinity Church after leaving the turmoil of Broadwjiy and Wall street. Jl TRINITY CHURCH. I S9 History. — Trinity parish is of great historic interest, being the parent of tlie Episcopal Church, not only in New York, but of the United States. The first home of the Cliurch of England in America was in a little chapel near the Battery, which had been vacated for larger quarters by the Dutch church. In 16U7, under William and Mary, a grant was made under the title of the i'ar- ish of Trinity Church of a parcel of land described as " In or near to a street without the north gate of the city, commonly called Broadway." A further grant was made in 1705 of Queen Anne's farm, which lay along tlie North river, between what are now Vesey and Christo[)her streets. The present Trinity Church is tlie tiiird building of that name to stand on this site. The first structure was 148 feet long and 72 feet broad, with a steeple 175 feet high, and history says that it was or- namented beyond any other place of worship in the city. The first and second rectors were Mr. Vesey and the Rev. Heni-y Barclay, after whom res])ectively Vesey and Barclay streets are named. During Mr. Barclay's min- istry the church became too small to accommodate the congregation, and St. George's Chapel, which is now a distinct parish, was erected (p.l67). By 1768 a third church was needed, and St. Paul's was erected. When the Revolution broke out Trinity was strongly loyal. Dr. Auchmuty, the rector, having retired fi'om the city. Mr. Inglis, who officiated in his stead, persisted in praying for the king, and this even in the face of a band of 150 armed men, who, one Sunday morning, marclied into the church with loaded muskets, bayonets fixed, and drums and fifes playiny. The congregation was affrighted, but Mr. Inglis, notwithstanding the fact that he invoked the blessings of God upon "our most gracious sovereign. King George," was not molested. It was thought wise, however, to close the church, and it remained so until the Britisli army entered New York. A few days afterwards it burned down, with the rectory and the parish school. It was rebuilt in 1778, but the structure then erected being in 1830 adjudged unsafe, tlie erection of the present building was determined upon. This was completed in 18^6. Trinity Parish is commonly supposed to be an enor- mously wealthy institution, applications for charity fall- 90 ing upon it as if it had iiiiliniited pocket-money. As a matter of fact, however, it cannot be said to have more than enougli for its own support and tlie support of other churches and charities, many in number, depend- ent upon it. These about absorb its annual income, which reaches something like half a million dollars. Had the parish been able to foresee the wonderful rise in value of New York real estate and held on to all the land granted it, tlie wealth now at its disposal would be fabulous, but until it was confronted with the actual necessity of retrencliing it was almost recklessly gener- ous. Struggling sister churches and charities, educa- tional institutions, and even persons without the slightest claim to its bounty, received from it donations of land and money for the asking. The parish now contains seven chui'ches. These are the historic St. Paul's (p. 125), St. John's, in Varick street: St. Augustine, on East Houston street near the Bowery (p. 151); Trinity Chapel, Twenty-fifth street near Broadway; St. Chrysostom's, Seventh avenue and Twenty-ninth street; St. Agnes', buililing at Ninth avenue and Ninety-first street; and St. Cornelius's, on Governor's Island. Pews are free, with the exception of those in Trinity Chapel, and others in the older churches held by inheritance. For many years Trinity Church at the head of Wall street has been an object of veneration to the citizens of New York. A writer (VV. H. llideing, in the Century magazine) has well expressed these feelings in the fol- lowing words: "There are few persons, believers or infidels, who do not possess an affectionate interest in 'Old Trinity.' Its history is, in a measure, the history of the city. For over two hundred years its worshippeis have included the most honored citizens, many of whom have gone from their seats in the naves to graves in tlie burial ground outside. It has survived many changes, many vicissitudes, and in meditative retrospect we see many pictures in the vista of its past. Tlie first build- ing was outside the upper gate of the city, and now the site is near the lower extremity. Under the King and under the Republic, it has existed for one purpose, and that is expressed when, above the noise of the traffic that plies around it, the chimes in its high steeple ring 91 out their melodious proclamations, lu this vicinity Broadway is crowded to excess. From early morning until late at niglit busy or careworn businessmen hasten past the church or pause to talk in its shadow; and the fine gothic pile of brown sandstone commemorating the generations associated with it can hardly fail to awaken a thought of more enduring tilings than the commerce which impels these eager merchants, bankers and brokers." Exterior and Interior. — Trinity Church building is considered one of the finest specimens of Gothic archi- tecture -in the city, and in spite of the many enormous structures devoted to secular purposes which have sprung up in its neighhorhood, it still remains the most inter- esting and most conspicuous building in the lower part of the city. It is open daily, and visitors are constantly entering and going out of the gate. Many of these visitors are strangers in the city, attracted simply by curiosity, but others leave their places of business or interrupt their walk for the purpose of spending a few moments in devotion in this venerable structure. Per- haps the contrast between the world outside and this sanctuary is all the greater for the fact that the turmoil of Broadway and Wall street is not entirely shut out, but is heard like the constant roar of a distant cataract. The groined roof is supported by rows of carved Gothic columns; daylight is warmed and toned by the richly stained windows by which it enters the interior, aiul the beautiful altar and reredos effectively end off the vista. The altar and reredos, memorials of the late William B. Astor, were erected by his sons. The altar is of pure white marble with shafts of red upon which are capitals carved in foliated designs. These shafts divide the front and sides into panels. The design of the central panel includes passion flowers, a Maltese cross in mosaic set with cameos, a Christ iiead, and symbols of the Evangelists. It is flanked by two kneeling angels. 92 Ears of wheat, also in mosaic, form the carvings of the other panels. The cornice is designed in grape vines inlaid with five crosses of red marble, and su])ports a white marble slab. The super altar is red Lisbon mar- ble, and on its face are the words "Holy ! Holy! Holy ! " in mosaic. On each side there is an extension forming a shelf along the whole length of the reredos, and designed for the reception of flowers at festivals. The reredos is of Caen stone carved in foliated designs, the whole being in perpendicular Gothic style. In the base are three square panels filled with colored mosaic con- ventional designs. Above the super altar seven panels of white marble sculptured in alto relievo show scenes in the life of Christ immediately preceding and subsequent to the Last Supper. Buttresses divide this reredos into three bays ; conspicuous on either are statuettes of the twelve apostles. The center piece represents the crucifixion, and at the points of the butti'esses stand seraphims playing tamliourines, lutes and timbrals. Behind the reredos is a large stained glass window with pictures of Christ and the a[)Ostles, The steeple and spire of Trinity Church are 284 feet high. The ascent of this steeple was formerly one of the usual incidents of a visit to New York, but strangers are no longer admitted unless they obtain a permit from the rector, whose office is in the building behind St. Paul's Church, corner of Vesey street, where he may be seen from 1 to 3 P. M. It may be said, however, that per- mits are granted only in special cases, and that, as a rule, applications for them would only be a waste of time. The view from this steeple is one of the finest to be had in the city. To the north one looks straight up Broadway to Grace Church. The crowds below are so small that they look like swarms of bugs rather than human l)eings, and horse cars and vehicles seem moving in opposite directions with a regularity almost resembling files of soldiers. Broadway is about the only street that can be distinguished in this direction. The city looks like a desert of house-tops, the monotonous line of which is broken only here and there by chimneys, wreaths of white smoke and spires. Looking toward the North river one sees right down upon the decks of sailing ves- sels and schooners, and across the river, beyond the 9Ji heights behind Jersey City and Hoboken are the Orange Mountains and the Jersey Highlands. To the south is the glistening harbor with its emei'ald islands, the gate- way of the Narrows, and in the extreme distance Sandy Hook and the ocean. Eastward Wall street runs like a mere lane to the river, Brooklyn Heights rounding off the view. Mr. William Waldorf Astor is planning to erect as a memorial to his father, the second John Jacob Astor, a massive bronze gateway to the old church. The plan includes a massive pair of bronze doors to the front en- trance and swinging inward. These doors are to bear designs from sacred history and allegory, and to include the finest features of the famous Baptistry gates of Florence. TJie Oraveyard. — As interesting as the church itself, and possibly more interesting to strangers is the grave- yard in which it stands. Several headstones in this date back to the time of the first Trinity Church building. Around the walls of the church are sepulchures and vaults. The mo^t conspicuous monument near the entrance is that of Captain James Lawrence, U. S. N., which is near the south gate. This monument stands in a square plot of grass, sur- rounded by chains suspended from eight trophy cannon. It is in the form of a sarcophagus in brown stone, and is fittingly massive and effective. In the east end of the bier are carved an anchor and laurel wreath, and on the west end part of a sloop of war. On the north face of the pedestal is a laudatory, but unexaggerated inscription, which tells also the leading events in the hero's career. "In memory of Captahi James Lawrence of the United States Navy, who fell on the 1st clay of June, 1813, in the 32d year of his affe, in the action betw^een tlie frij?ates Chesapeake and" Sliannon. He was distin^inislied on various occasions, but especially wlien commandiiis" the sloop of war Hornet, he capture and sunk his Brittanick Majesty's sloop of war Peacock, after a desperate action of 14 minutes. His bravery in action was equalled only by his modesty in triumph, and his magnanimity to the van- quished. In private life he was a fj^entleman of the most gener- ous and endearing qualities. Tlic win ile nation mourned his loss, and the enemy contended with his countrymen who should most honor his remains." 94 The east face bears tlie followiiiy- inscription, referring to his last words, which have become ahnost a motto with the American navv : " The heroic commander of the frigate Chesapeake whose re- mains are here deposited, expressed with his expiring breath his devotion to his country. Neither the fury of battle, the anguish of a mortal wound, nor the licrrors of approacliiiig death could subdue his gallant spirit. His dying words were, ' Don't give up the ship.' " Captain Lawrence's widow and Lieut. Augustus C. Ludlow, who was his executive officer and fell with him, are buried with him beneath this memorial. On the south side of the cemetery, about half-way be- tween Broadway and New Church street, is the monu- men terected by the corporation of Trinity Church to the memory of Alexander Hamilton, a small obelisk on a broad pedestal and bearing the inscription : " The patriot of incorruptable integrity, the soldier of ap- proved valor, the statenian of consummate wisdom, whose talents and virtues will be admired by a grateful ijosterity long after tliis marble shall have molded into dust." At the foot of this memorial liis wife is buried. Near the southwest end of the church is the grave of Albert Gallatin, who was Secretary of the Treasury in 1801-1813, and near by is the grave of Phil. Kearney, who fell in 1862, at Chantilly. Kearney, born in New York, June 2, 1815, was a famous fighter. Alter graduating at the United States INIilitary Academy, he went to France and took part as a cavah-y officer in the Algerian war in 1839-1840. In tlie Mexican war. after the battle of Churubusco, he pursued tlie fleeing enemy at the head of a company of dragoons into the city of Mexico itself. In cutting his way out again he was shot in the left arm, which had to be amputated. After this he rode into l);ittle with his bridle between his teeth, his sabre in Jiis right. In 1859. he again went to France, and served in the Frenr-h army in the war with Italy, leading several decisive charges. He was on a reconnoitering expedition wlien killed at Chantilly. At the Jiead of the first path on the northern ^-ide of the church, is the grave of William Bradford, the printer of the first news[)aper in New York, who died here on the 23d of May, 1752. The stone having become marred by age, it was restored with the original inscrip- 95 tioii by the vestry of Trinity Church in May, 1863. This inscription is worth quoting for its quaintness, in which particular it resembles many of the other old head-stones in the graveyard : " Reader, reflect liow soon you'll quit this stage ; You find but few attain t<> such an age. Life is full of pain : Lo ! Here's a Place of Rest, Prepare to meet your God, then you are blest." William Bradfoi-d was born in Leicester, England. He came to this country with William Penn in 1682. In 1685 he set up at Philadelphia the first press south of New England, and the third in the colonies. In 1698, on account of political differences, he came to New York and set up here the first press in the province. On the 16th day of October, 1725, he began the issue of the New York Gazette, which was the first paper printed in the city. Diagonally across the path from Bradford's grave a plain slab suid<; in the sod marks the last resting-place of the ill-fated Charlotte Temple, a beautiful girl, who before the Revolution, eloped from England to this country with a British officer, and was here betrayed and deserted by him, dying insane and in bitter poverty. This is a place of i)ilgrimage for many people, and the grave is rarely without flowers, some cut, some growing in pot«, placed there by loving hands. In the northeast corner of the burying-ground is the large Gothic memorial to "Those brave and good men who died while imprisoned in this city for their devotion to the cause of American independence." This is direct- ly opposite the head of Pine street. It was erected at the time when it was feared that the city would continue the street through the graveyard, and its erection was regarded as a clever ruse on the part of the church cor- poration to prevent the extension of the street. The oldest headstone in the graveyard is a small brown stone in memory of Richard Churcher, bearing date 1681, and standing directly opposite Charlotte Temple's grave. Charities. — The wealth of Trinity Church is estimated at about $5,000,000, and, as has been stated, the income derived from this goes not only to the support of the parish and its missionary work, but also to that of some twenty sister church-^s. Large sums are annually paid 96 to the Episcopal funds of the diocese and to the dioce- san fund, and the expenses of the convention fall in a large measure on the vestry of Trinity Church. Numer- ous charitable societies are connected with the parish. A large school building stands back of the church on New Church street. Here there are both day and night classes. There is also an industrial school for the ex- clusive purpose of teaching young girls to sew. Trinity Church Association was formed in 1879 and incorporated in 1887 to carry on charitable work down-town. This association supervises and supports a mission house at 209 and 211 Fulton street, in charge of the Sisters of St. Mary. This is the headquarters for work among the poor. Here are a dispensary, a kindergarten, a training school in household service for young girls, a relief bureau, a kitchen garden, and here also are given enter- tainments and lectures. The Association also maintains a seaside home for children at Great River, nearlsli}), L.I. The separate chapels of the i)arish have also iiumerous charitable societies. The jiarisli as a whole also main- tains a hospital where, during the year, au average of 350 patients are treated. CHAPTER III. WALL STREET. Wall street runs along the line of outer fortifications, which in 1644 were erected as a defense against the In- dians, the Governor ordering at the time that a good solid fence be built across the island. For nine years this fence formed the northern boundary of a sheep pasture, a part of which was then granted to a number of influential citizens, who seem to have held the land for speculative purposes. In 1653 the wall was strength- ened, and a gate known as the " Land Gate " was built at the present junction of Wall street and Broadway, right in front of the site on wliich Trinity Church now stands. The first building of any note on tlie street was erected in 1656 on the spot now occupied by the Custom House. Lots ranged in price from |50 to $100. North of the street was an orchard, and there is an account of a bear hunt in it about this time. It is not improbable that an occasional bull may have strayed into the sheep pasture at the south, so that in tho-e days already Wall t?treet had its bears, bulls, and lambs. In 1769 the wall was finally demolished, and in 1700 the City Hall, the predecessor of the famous Federal Hall, was erected where the Sub-Treasury, facing Broad street, now stands. Opposite it, on the upper part of Broad street, was a cage, pillory, whipping-post and stocks, but not the kind of stocks that are now dealt in in this vicinity. In 1766 William Pitt was honored for having espoused the cause of the colonists by a marble statue at Wall and William streets. But during the British occupancy of 08 the city in ilie Uevolutioii, ilie statue was beheaded and otherwise disfigured, and in 1789 it was removed, and is now in the building of the New York Historical Society. On the north corner of Wall street and Broadway, is the United Bank Building, occupied by the First National Bank, known among financial circles as Fort Sherman, from the favor with which Senator Sherman, when Secretary of the Treasury, is said to have regarded it, the Bank ot the Republic and numerous offices. Be- tween tliis buikling and Nassau street on the north side of Wall, are the Schermerhorn and Astor buildings. On the opposite side of the street is the handsome Mortimer building, on the east corner of Wall and New streets. This is a structure of dark, buff brick, with an entrance in the form of a deep arch, through which a stone stair- way curves up to the first floor, an unusual architectural effect in the business quarters of the city. New York Stock Exchange. — Next to this is the narrow Wall street entrance to the Stock Exchange, tlie main fronts being on Broad and New streets; but of course it would have been absurd for the institution which rules and sometimes almost ruins the country financially, not to have an entrance on Wall street. Strangers gain admission to the visitors' gallery by this entrance. The first New Y'ork Stock Exchange was formed by seventy-four brokers, who in 1793 met under a button-wood tree in front of the present No. 6 ) Wall street. Until 1817 its business was chiefly transacted at the Tontine Coffee-house, at tlie corner of Wall and Water streets. From that time until 1865, when it moved into the present edifice, it had various meeting- places, among them a private office and an upper room in the Merchants' Exchange (on tlie site of the present Custom House). The present building was designed by James Renwick. Its greatest front is on New street, where it occupies 152 feet. It also has a fi'ontage of 70 feet on Broad street, where the main entrance is. The part on Wall street is 09 really only an L, yet tlie Shock Exchange is always asso- ciated with Wall street. The best view of the building is obtained on Broad street. It is a substantial five- story white marble structure, witii the columns and up- per stories of colored granite built in the French Renaissance style, costing about $2,000,000, the title be- ing vested in the New York Stock Exchange Building Company. The annual expenses for wtar and salaries are about $200,000. Board Room. — That portion of the building which the stranger will want to see first is the Board Room, the financial nerve center of the country. The turmoil of this room must be heard to be appreciated — to describe it is impossible. It surpasses even the proverbial bear garden. Perhaps it is more like a tribe of Indians ex- ecuting a war dance than anything else. The transac- tions which take place in it are telegraphed all over the civilized world, and it is not exaggeration to say that the busiiif ss interests of the whole country throb in uni- son with it. A panic in Wall street means financial disaster throughout the United States. This Board Room is on the New street side of the ground floor, and is 200x98 feet. At 10 A. M. a gong strikes for the open- ing of business, at 2:15 P. M. for deliveries, at 3 P. M. for closing. Strangers are not admitted to the ground floor except as a matter of courtesy through a member, but an excellent view is had from the galleries on the second floor, which are reached from the Wall street entrance. Besides the Board Room, tliere are on the ground floor the Long Room for telegraph apparatus for subscribers at $100 a year, and the Reading Room. The click of the famous "tickers" running out their paper ribbons of quotations make music joyous or sad, accord- ing to tlie information which the ribbon conveys to the speculator who consults it. In the Board Room every stock has its special location, which is designated on a row of sign pillars running along the middle of the room from end to end. For purpose of communion with the outside world each broker is numbered and if he is wanted a knob bearing liis number is pulled, and instantly this number appears conspicuously in a space in front of the visitors' gallery. The room is electrically lighted from three chandeliers 100 and is admirably vontilated, Clocks announce both Washington and New York time. Since 1879 the limit of membership of tlie Exchange has been eleven hundred. Its government is vested in a Governing Committee of forty, in four classes, one of which retires every year, and in its President and Treasurer. The President serves gratuitously. The initiation fee is $20,000, or if membership is acquired by purchase of a seat, $1,000. The latter is the usual method. As high as $36,000 has been paid for a seat. No initiation fee was demanded under the button-wood tree in 1792. In 1823 it was $2o; in 1827, $100; in 1833, $150; in 1842, $350; in 1862, $3,000, aud in 1866, $10,000. The present rate was established in 1879. Brokers are of three classes — the first do a regular commission busines and never speculate; the second are the "scalpers," who buy with the intention of selling to other brokers at a rise; the third are the " traders," who confine their operations for a long period to a certain line of stocks or even to one particular stock. A divi- sion of "scalpers" are known as "guerrillas."' These deal in inactive stocks. Certain parts of tlie floor have, through guerrilla transactions, become kuown as "Hell's Kitchen" and "Robber's Roost." Members of the Ex- change in dealing with non-members are required to charge a commission of at least }^ of 1 per cent. Even offering to do business for less is punishable by expulsion and the sale of the offending member's seat. Exchange Slang. — The slang of the Exchange is a fit subject for a linguistic study, There are many terms besides those of "scalper," " guerrilla " and "trader," which have a special meaning on the floor of this iusti- tution, "bull" and "bear" being the most familiar. A " bull " is an operator who is " long of stock," i. e., who has "loaded" himself with a large number of stocks, bought perhaps in a large quantity at a time, and who expects to "unload " on a rising market. Naturally his tendency is to "bull the market," send up the prices of stocks. Sometimes he has to resort to fictitious measures such as "ballooning" — circulating rose-colored reports anent its value, making fictitious sales, etc., and may even be forced to " fly kites" — expand his credit injudi- ciously. If he operates so skillfully that he raises orde- 101 presses the stock at will he "milks the street." "Bears" are those who agree to deliver stock at a future date at a certain price, lower, of course, than its price at the time the contract is made. The bear's policy is to so depress the stock between the date of the contract and the date of the delivery that he can buy it at a lower price than that at which he is to deliver it, thus making the bal- ance. Hence, the " bear " is usually found "gunning a stock," for he is obliged to depress or " break" the mar- ket in order to " cover his shorts," i. e., buy in the stock he has to deliver at a figure low enough to yield him a profit or at least save him on the transaction. Some- times he is "cornered" by a "pool" or a combination of operators who are bulling the stock. The conflict be- tween bull and bear is irrepressible, and at any particu- lar time it is sim])ly a question as to whether the bull can toss the bear or the bear can get his arms around the bull's neck and squeeze him. U. S. Sub-Treasury. — The most interesting building on Wall street is undoubtedly the Sub-Treasury, and this not only because of the vast sums of money deposited there — at times $200,000,000 — but also because it occupies the site of the old Federal Hall, on the balcony of which Washington took the oath as the first President of the United States. It stands on the south corner of Wall and Nassau streets. History. — When in 1699 the old fortifications on Wall street were torn down, the stones from the bastions were appropriated to the building of the City Hall on this site. This became, of course, the center of political life in the city. It was not only a City Hall, but a Municipal and Colonial Court House, a jail and the Capitol of the prov- ince. Here tlie freedom of the American Press was established in 1735 at the trial of John Zenger; here in 1765 the people of New York protested against the Stamp Act; here, July 18, 1776, the Declaration of Inde- pendence was read to the excited populace, and here for a time sat the Continental Congress and the old Congress after the Revolution. When Congress had selected New York City as the Capital of the Nation, the citizens 100 of Now York detonniiUMl to transfonn tlu'ii' City Hall into the moiv iiiUH^siiii:: Fodcral Hall. An aivliway throuijh tlio basonuMit fonin'il a proim-iiailo. KtMirlu'avy Tusoaji ooluiiuis supported the uraiul balcony, ami four hiiih Doric pillars ii jieiliineut on whicli were carved a jjreat American eaiile havinj:: thirteen arrows, tlie arms of the United States and other ornamental liu- ures. The furniture used hy this Conirress, and Wash- ington's desk and table may be seen at. the Governor's Koom in the City IImII (p. VM). ]Vit,^/ii/ii/fo)i InaiiQurafioit. — Washinuton traveled to New York by way of Hallinu>re, \N'ilmiiiulon, Phihulel- phia, Trenton. New Brunswick and Kli/.abeth. From Elizabeth he was rowed, April ;2o, 1781), to New York in a superb barge by thirteen masters of vessels in white uniform with black caps ornamented with fringes. As the barge tlrew up to 3Iurray's wharf, near the foot of Wall street, cannon were fired and the bells of the city were rung. AVashingtou was esctu'ted by a procession con\posed of trtn^ps, the oI11c(M-s of the State and city, the clergy, the French and S[)anish embassadors and citizens to the Franklin llouse, which stood at the inter- section of Franklin square and Cherry street, then a lovely retreat, a strikingly pretty feature of whicli was a tine cherry orchard from which Cherry street derived its name. The ;>Oth of April, the day on whii'h he took the oath as the lirst Presiileut of the" United States. was ushered in by a discharge of cannon at sunrise at old Fort George near Bmvling Green. At half-past nine services were held at all the churches in the city. At noon the military jiaraded in front of the house on Cherry street, ami at half-past twelve marched to Federal Hall, where they were drawn up on either side of the street. Washington passing through the lines and pro- ceeding to the Senate Chamber. He was almost imme- diately conducted to the grand balcony in front of the Senate Chamber which looked out on Broad stieet. Near him stood Yice-President John Adams. Governor George Clinton. Chancellor Livingston. Roger Shernuin. Richard Henry Lee, Generals Henry Knox and Arthur St. Clair. Baron Steuben ami Samuel Otis, the Secretary of the S.'uate. In the center of the balcony was a table, the coverinsr of which was red velviM. On this lay a crimson \\'ASHI.\(/10.\ STA'l ( h (C. H. HfIi-TJ{KA8fi:V.> 103 velvet cushion and on tliis a large Bible. This Bible had been borrowed at the last moment of St. John's Lodge, No. 1, P. and A. M., it having been discovered just be- fore the oath was to be administered that there was no Bible in Federal Hall. Washington, with due solemnity, advanced to the front of the balcony, laid his hand on his heart, bowed several times, and retired to an arm chair near the table. When the universal shout of joy and welcome had subsided, and pro-found silence reignecl all about him, Washington arose and came forward. Chancellor Livingston read the oath, and Washington, resting his hand upon the table as he stood, repeated it. Mr. Otis then took the Bible and raised it. Washington stooped and kissed it. A^ he did so, a flag was raised upon the cupola of the Hall, and, as it was unfurled to the breeze, there was a discharge of artillery at the Bat- tery, the bells of the city rang out, and the multitude sent up a great shout. Washington bowed to the people and then retired into the Hall. In the Senate Chamber he then delivered his inaugural address, and afterwards, accomi)anied by the Vice-President, the Speaker, the two houses of Congress, and those who had been invited to the inauguration ceremony, proceeded to St. Paul's Church (p. 125) where a service of thanksgiving was conducted. The Washington Imiuguration Centennial celebration is too recent to require a detailed account. It lasted three days, beginning April 29, 1889, the prin- cipal ceremony taking place on the steps of the Sub- Treasury. The Statue of Washington which stands upon these steps was unveiled November 26, 1883. It is a bronze figure of colossal size by J. Q. A. Ward, and represents Washington taking the oath. It was erected by volun- tary subscription under the auspices of the Chamber of Commerce of the State of New York. Sunk in the pedestal in front of the figure is a large brown stone slab bearing the following inscription: "Standing on this stone in the balcony of Federal Hall, April 30th, 1779, George Washington took the oath as the first President of the United States of America." Present Building. — After the seat of government of the United States was removed to Philadelphia, Federal 104 Hall was occupied by the State Assembly and the Courts. In 1813 it was taken down and the buildings erected on its site gave way in 1842 to the old Custom House,whicli is now tiie Sub-Treasury. This is a large, light granite building, in Doric style, extending from Wall to Pine street. Ou the Wall street front eighteen granite steps extending the entire breadth of the building lead to a dignified portico supported by eight marble columns. Within is a rotunda of sixty feet diameter, sixteen Cor- inthian columns, fifteen o£ which are monoliths, sup- porting the dome, a gallery running around the rotunda. On the floor are ranged tlie desks of the various depart- ments of the Sub-Treasury. This branch of the Treasury department has been here since 1862, when the Custom House was removed to the building on the south side further down the street which it now occupies. Transactions. — This institution received dui-ing the last fiscal year $1,157,931,582.23, and paid out $1,130,- 598,102.68. Its receipts come from the Custom House, the Post Offices of this district, and from the Treasury Department for disbursing officers, such as army and navy paymasters, and for pensions. Its disbursements were made up largely of Treasury drafts, money paid out to disbursing officers, the redemption of United States bonds, the payment of coupons and interest on bonds, and the redemption of mutilated currency. It will redeem any piece of paper money which is not mutilated more than two-fifths. If mutilated to a greater extent, the request for redemption has to be accompanied by an affidavit explaining tiie manner in which the mutilation occurred. The extent to which mutilated money is re- deemed through this agency is shown by the following statistics for one year : Gold certificates, $49,141,000; silver certificates, $15,983,000; United States notes, $20,345,000 ; National Bank notes, $2,812,000 : frac- tional notes, relics of war days still in circulation, $1,500. It may be said of this institution in a general way that it transacts two-thirds of the fiiuincial afT.nrs of the United States Government. Some 375,000 pension I 105 checks are paid ou4 in this office each quarter, making about 70 per cent, of the entire pension list of the United States. The largest single check ever drawn in the office was one for $30,000,000, and it is offset by the smallest single transaction, which was for one cent. Gold Vaults. — The vaults in wliich the gold and gold certificates are stored are on the floor of the rotunda on the north side, respectively to the left and right of the passage-way, and are well lighted, and cheerfully car- peted; quite different from the vaulted and gloomy re- cesses which one would naturally expect to enter. But, however cheerful they are, they are as secure as if they were the darkest of dungeons, being separated from the rotunda by four huge, heavy doors with the most modern lock appliances. The vault in which gold exclusively is kept is to the left of the passage-way. It is fitted up with one hundred and thirty closets, each holding one hundred bags, each bag containing $5,000 in gold coin, so that each closet contains half a million dollars. There has been as much as $64,000,000 stored in this vault at .one time. The other vault is used not only for the storage of gold coin, but also for the storage of gold certificates. These are done up in packages of one hundred notes, and ten of these packages go into a bundle, so that each bundle contains one thousand notes. At the time when the author visited this vault he was allowed to hold in his liand a package containing $10,000,000 in gold certificates. It was made up of one thousand $10,000 certificates, and the package repre- sented the smallest space into which that amount of money could be compressed. It was the length of an ordinary bill, and about four inches in thickness. It was almost as light as a feather, but represented a weight in coin of IS^^ tons. There are, besides these two large vaults on either side of the passage, a small vault for the reception of nickels and pennies. Coin Division.— 'Passmg out of the rotunda toward Pine street, there is on the riglit-hand side of the build- ing the coin division. Here business houses and corpor- ations requiring large sums of money in small change receive this in exchange for coins and bills of larger de- nominations. Retail firms during the Christmas season 106 will draw at one time |10,000 in pennies. The Manhat- tan Elevated Railroad, on the other hand, which receives large quantities of small coin, exchanges this three times a week for large bills. At the time of deposit a certificate is given, then the coin deposit is carefully examined, and whatever is light-weight, mutilated or counterfeit is thrown out and charged against the depositor. Coun- terfeits are, before they are returned, so effectually marred that they cannot be passed upon unsuspecting persons. It is learned from the experience of this de- partment that counterfeiting is carried on to an extraor- dinary extent. A favorite method is to dig out the metal fi"om between the two faces of the coin, and then fill it up with metal of about the same weight. Even one cent pieces are counterfeited, and there is a counter- feit penny in circulation upon which is stamped "Not one cent." Of course the experts who receive the coin at the Sub-Treasury can determine at the first touch, in nearly every instance, that a coin is a counterfeit, and there are also expert counterfeit detectives among the men who handle paper money. In the upper story is an armory, where various weapons are kept in readiness for an attack in case of riot. The shutters are of steel and the building is forti- fied in various ingenious ways, not only on all sides, but on the roof, to ward off an attack from the adjoining buildings which are higher than the Sub-Treasury. The system of defense is naturally kept secret. The silver vault is in the basement in the northwest corner of the building. Here the silver is stacked up in bags like bags of salt. The bulk is in dollars. The smallest silver coin now in circulation is the dime. A few half -dunes and three-cent pieces are occasionally presented, but these are retired as rapidly as they are received, i\s are also the two-cent copper pieces. A thou- sand dollars' woi-th of coin is packed in each bag. There has been about $38,000,000 worth of silver in this vault at a time. The silver is shipped in large quantities to the South, when tiie cotton crop is being picked, as the negroes prefer the bright coin dollars to the paper dollar. The general public is not admitted to a detailed inspec- tion of the Sub-Treasury, but applications made to the Sub-Treasurer will receive consideration. 107 U. S. Assay Office. — Adjoining the Sub-Treasury is the United States Assay Office, a marble building in classic style, erected 1823, for a branch of the United States Bank. It is the oldest structure on Wall street. It is a branch of the United States Mint, and everything is done here which is done at the Mint, except coining. Domestic bullion, domestic coin which is uncurrent on account of mutilation or light weight, foreign bullion, foreign coin, jewelers' bars, watch-cases, old plate, the latter class of articles often from " fences " (receivers of stolen goods), are brought here to be melted up and cast into bricks. Operations. — the operations of the Assay Office during the last fiscal year are represented by the following sta- tistics: There was deposited, in gold, bullion to the value of $16,365,923.27, partings $1,443,136.61; in un- current coins of the United States, $417,000; in foreign coins, $1,117,659.06; in silver, bullion to tiie amount of $4,166,044.17, partings $92,941.62; in coins, $3,001.05. The woi'k of the assay department of this institution comprised the testing of some 10,000 melts of gold and silver, besides numy other melts of the fine metals, and the testing of some four hundred barrels of sweeps, and many hundreds of special assays. Sweeps are obtained from the retorts, cloths, strainers, brushes, brooms, dusters, and other articles which are apt to catch silver or gold dust, or to become in any way impregnated with the precious metals used in the Assay Office. These are ground up, placed in barrels, and assays from each bai-rel made so as to determine its general value. The barrels are then put up at auction and sold to the highest bidder, a report of the assays being first made to the bidders. In the melting and refining department there were refined last year by acid 2,232,101 gross ounces. There were prepared and delivered to the superintendent 18,234 bars of gold and 25,993 bars of silver, a total of 44,227 bars; and 1,104,255 pounds of sulphuric acid were used in the parting oj^erations, and 1,592,545 pounds of spent acid ^nd 129,913 pounds of blue vitriol were sold 108 during the yeai', realizing $9,015.08. Sixty-one thou- sand ounces of silver from the acid refinery were used over in parting gold deposits. The melter and refiner operated during the year on 970,793 standard ounces of gold and returned a surplus of 416,394 standard ounces. The same officer operated on 4,294,094 standard ounces of silver and returned an excess of 5,021.30 standard ounces. The bars of precious metal refined here are sold largely to manufacturing jewelers, are sent to tiie mints for coinage, and are also used as exchange when tlie rate of exchange reaches what is known in financial circles as the shipping point. Vaults. — In the vaults of the Assay Office millions of dollars' worth of gold and silver is piled up in bricks of various sizes ranging in value from $100 to $8,000. The gold vault, on the ground floor of the building on the Wall street side, is a little room, and yet it will hold $70,000,000 worth of gold. Refining. — The most interesting operation to the visi- tor is undoubtedly the refining department on the Pine street side of the building. The bullion being received on the ground floor, is here granulated by being melted in crucibles and then thrown into water. Having been granulated, it is sent up to the acid-room on the top floor, where it is boiled seven times in sulphuric acid. This eliminates the silver from the gold, leaving the gold in a dirt colored powder in a filter-box, but a box of this dirt is worth about $100,000. The powder hav- ing been thoroughly washed, is placed into a press, and, under a pressure of two hundred tons, the moisture is squeezed out of it, and the powder assumes the form of a round cake. It is then ready to be refined. Silver undergoes a more complicated treatment. Having been boiled in sulphuric acid and eliminated from the gold, it runs down in a liquid form as sulphate of silver through pipes to the story below, where it is received into vats lined with copper plates. These copper plates separate the silver in the form of a gray powder, leaving sulphate of copper in the vats which flows down into the floor below where it is crystajized on copper plates. IMie silver powder is treated like the gold in the press, and is then ready to be melted. The crystalizecl sul- phate of copper is sold. The melting furnaces are on 109 the same floor on which the granulation takes place. The cakes are thrown into large black lead crucibles, which are placed in furnaces. When the metal is sizzling and bubbling in the crucible, a thick covering of bone ash is spread over it, and through a little hole made in this bone ash nitre is poured on the molten metal. The nitre draws up the copper impurities which form a slag with the bone a?h. This is removed from time to time, and the process repeated for about three hours. When the metal is refined, it is dipped out in ladles, and poured into forms from which it is lifted as red-hot bricks of gold and silver and placed upon tables to cool. Tiie glow of a red-hot gold brick is something which possesses a glory all its own, being like the gor- geous golden hue of a sunset sky. AHsaijing. — The process of assaying is somewhat more complicated, and is not as readily understood as the simpler process of refining. All bullion, whether it is simply for assay, or for refining purposes, is received in a room on the ground floor on the Wall street side of the building. Here it is weighed and receipted foi'. It is then run into bars, "pig" gold and '"pig" silver one might call them, from which delicate slips are taken. These slips are sent up to the assay department, which occupies the upper stories on the Wall street front of the building, and here delicate portions are weighed out on scales which will weigh the i-q^q part of a drachm. They are wrapped up in a thin strip of pure lead shaped somewhat like a cornucojua and technically called cor- nets, and put in little calcined bone cupels. These are then deposited in gas cupel furnaces and as the lead melts the base metals are carried with it into the bone of the cupel or are oxidized, leaving a button of pure gold and silver in the bottom. This is then weighed, aiutthe loss shows the amount of base metal contained in the original. The button is then rolled out into a thin strip which is boiled in nitric acid, the acid eating out the silver and leaving the pure gold. The iiest time to visit the Assay Oifice is about 10.80-A. M., when the refining is most apt to be in progress. The Sub-Treasury stands opposite Broad street, one of the main arteries of business runniiiy: into Wall street. Originally the ground here was mar.-hy, and a brook ran 110 from the marsh through the middle of Broad street to the river. In 1657 the sides of this brook were lined with plank so that it might better serve its purpose as an open drain. The marsh ended at Exchange Place, which is one block below Wall street, and the ground between the end of the swamp and Wall street itself was a sheep pasture, so that sheep were sheared in this part of New York long before the Stock Exchange was estab- lished here. In 1676 the marsh and the ditch were filled np, and the street made level. The corners of Wall and Broad streets are considered among the most valuable pai'cels of real estate in the City of New York. The north corner is occupied by the Wilks Building, sufficiently imposing to make it worthy of its costly site. Next to it stands the Broad street front of the Stock Exchange, and beyond this a branch of Del- monico's. The eastern corner is occupied by the Drexel Building, a white marble six-story building in the Renaissance style, and built for the l)anking firm of Drexel, Morgan & Co. The superb brick structure ad- joining it on Broad street, occupying a frontage of 175 feet and ten stories high, is the Mills Building. This has an L opening on Wall street, where the building oc- cupies a frontage of 25 feet. On busy days the elevtitoi's in this building have carried as many as 17.000 passen- gers. The view down Broad street from the coi-ner of Nassau is gracefully ended off by the distant campanile of the Produce Exchange. Exchange Place, which runs from Broadway to Han- over street, crossing Broad street, is interesting, because in the old days a bridge crossed the ditch at Broad street at this point, and on this bridge the first Mer- chants' Exchange was organized, March 24, 1670; its member!^ meeting on the bridge every Friday morning at 11 O'clock. The small boys of the vicinity liaving been accustomed to coast in winter down the hill from the country road which is now Broadway, to the sheep pasture, which is now Broad street, they were ordered by the Mayor to suspend their sport on Fridays, between 11 and 12, so as not to disturb the deliberations of the Exchange. The Long Island Ferry once started from this bridge at Exchange place, the skiff proceeding down the ditch through Broad street into the river, the ferry Ill house standing at the present corner of New street and Exchange Place. Nassau street is a narrow thorough- fare leading from Wall street to City Hall Park. It follows the line of an old lane, which, when a petition for the opening of the street was presented in the early- days of the city, was quaintly described as a "cart lane running by the \)\e woman's to the Connnons," City Hall Park then being the common pasture of the town. This is now the great thoroughfare for lawyers on their way from this part of the city to the Court House in City Hall Park, and here are the stores of law-book publishers and secondhand book dealers, and it is also occupied by numerous handsome office buildiup's. Proceeding down Wall street, from Nassau, the next building to attract attention is that of the Mechanics Bank at Nos. 31 and 88, built of granite and Indiana limestone and presenting an imposing front of nine stories. Conspicuous on this front is a bronze casting of a mechanic's brawny arm and iiand wielding a hammer. The bank acquired this property in the last century and the deeds to it are said to run back to the days of (^ueen Anne. Another conspicuous building housing one of the historic banks of the country, the Bank of the jNlan- hattan Company is the nine story granite structure built conjointly by the bank just named, and the Merchants' Bank at Nos. 40 and 42 Wall street. One of its finest features is the grand entrance arch. The 3IanJiattan Company''s Bcmk was organized by Aaron Burr in op- position to the Bank of New York, one of whose found- ers was his bitter political rival, Alexander Hamilton. Its banking privilege was secured by clever ruse. Just after the yellow fever scourge in New York, when it was thought that the ei)idemic might have been caused by the brackish water in tiie wells which tlien furnished the only water supply to the city, Burr obtained a charter for a water company with !|;2, 000,000 of ca))ital, but in this charter there was a clause permitting the company to use its surplus cai)ital in any way not inconsistent with the laws and constitution of the United States or of the State of New York. This clause was utilized in a manner which the Legislature granting the charter little dreamed of, for it led to the incorporation of the Man- hattan Company's Bank in 1799. The Manhattan Com- 112 pany did, as a malter of fad, eonstriR't water-works and for some time sii[)i)lied the city with water, and it still, in order to retain its charter, maintains in a buikling on Centre street a huge tank. Opposite the building of the Ma!ihattan Company is the nine story building of the United States Trust Company, Nos. 45 and 47 Wall street. It is built of granite varied with brownstone, the carving on which is as delicate as lace-work. On the northwest corner of Wall and William streets is tiie handsome building of the Bank of America, while the Bank of New York, the oldest bank in the State and the second bank organized in the United States, occupies a fine building on the northeast corner. This is the bank founded by Alexander Hamilton, which Burr sougiit to antagonize when he incorporated the Manhattan Com- pany's Bank. The Bank of Xew York commenced busi- ness on the 9th of June, 1784, being then located in the Walton mansion on Franklin square, at loG Pearl street, about opposite the sti'ucture now occupied by Harper Bros. (p. 141). In 1787 the bank removed to No. 11 Hanover square, and in 1798 to the site it now oc- cupies. The Walton house remained standing until 1881, having fallen, however, upon sorry times, being last occupied as a lodging house for immigrants. The Bank of New York was formally incorporated in 1791, re-organized under the Free Banking Act in 1852, and in July, 1879, became a national bank. Proceeding down William street to the south, the visitor will reach, near the corner of Beaver street on the east side, the handsome building of the Farmers' Loan and Trust Company, and adjoining it, on the cor- ner of William street and Hanover square, the yellow brick structure of the Cotton Exchange. This Exchange was organized August 15, 1870, and occupied, until May 4, 1872, premises at 142 Pearl street, from that time to April 29, 1885, premises in Hanover square, and moved into the present building A{)ril 30, 1885. It is calcula- ted that the cotton crop of the United States is nearlv 6,940,000 bales or nearly 3,440,410,000 pounds. For tiie year ending May 1, 1890, the sales of spot cotton on the Exchange aggregated 31 5, 443 bales, andf or future delivery 21 ,084,100 bales. Diagonally across the street is the new Delmonico building, ()ccu[>yiMg the site of the first 113 restaurant establi.slied by this famous house. Returning lo Wall street, the next object of interest is the United States Custom House. United States Custom House. — This occupies the entire block bounded by Wall, William, Hanover streets and Exchange Place, and is connected by a bridge with another building on the southern side of Exchange Place, where the Naval Officer has his headquarters. The Custom House building is of Quincy granite, in Doric style, with a portico of granite columns, each 38 feet high and 4^ feet in diameter. Its main entrance is on Wall street, and leads into a fine rotunda with a dome supported by 8 pilasters of marble. The building was originally constructed for a Merchants' Exchange, but when the Sub-Treasury was established in 1862, it was |)urchased by the National Government for customs purposes. It may be said without exaggeration that every man, woman and child in the United States is affected by the business transactions of this, the princi- pal Custom House of the country, for there duties are collected on wearing apparel, articles of ornament, house furnishings, food and drink, all of which cost more because the United States Government levies duty upon them. The New York Custom House has less proportion of expense to the amount of duties collected tluin any other in the land, and is an enormously i)rofitable institution to the Government. Its receipts in 1889 were |lo4,831,- 162.38; its expenses only $2,800,000. Altogether there were 275,000 entries for merchandise, and the record of vessels entered was as follows: From foreign ports, 5,557, and from domestic ports, 2,477; while there cleared for foreign ports, 4,948, and for domestic ports, 2,773. The mode of passing goods through the Custom House is very complicated, and requires for its proper supervi- sion the division of the customs service into several branches, at tiie head of which is the Collector of the 114 Port. All the work done in the Collector's office io then verified by the Naval office. The employees number about 1,700 people, including several female inspectors, whose business it is to prevent women from smuggling articles through the customs in tlieir clothing apparel. The inspectors have their headquarters at the Barge Office, wiiich has already been described (p, 78). The routine through which a passenger's baggage must pass before a passenger can take it or have it removed from the port has already been explained (p, 29). The unloading and delivery of goods from the vessels at the wharf involves more circumstance. Tlie captain proceeds to the Custom House and delivers the manifest of his cargo and other papers to the Collector, tliis being technically described as an " entry " of the vessel. Un- til this and other incidental acts are performed by him. the cargo of the vessel can not be touched. When all ])relirainary steps have been taken and bulk is broken, the goods are passed from the vessel to the dock under the supervision of two inspectors, who see to it that samples of the goods are sent for appraisement to the Public Stores, and also that the regulations of the customs are otherwise complied with. When the goods at the Public Stores have been examined and appraised, the consignee is notified of the amount of duty payable. He will already have paid duties on the face of the invoice, but the result of the appraisement ]nay be to either lower or increase these, in which case part of his payment is refunded, or he is obliged to make an additional pay- ment. The process is, of course, much more complicated than this, so complicated in fact that merchants usually employ Custom House brokers to transact this branch of their business, but the above is about the simplest way of describing the method. Opposite the Custom House, onHanover andWall streets, is the old banking firm of Brown Bros. & Co., and not far below is the building of the Queen Insurance Com- pany, conspicuous for its fine porch, an architectural feature seldom found in New York office buildings. The Elevated Railroad crosses Wall street at Pearl street. Pearl streel, it will be remembered by those who have followed the itinerary of this guide, begins at State street, and therefore has swept around in a semi-circle to 115 this point, aucl from here on it makes another sweep joining Broadway above Reade street, running a semi- circular course. Its peculiar line is due to the fact that it was built up along an old cow-path which ran from the old fort along the outlying settlements to the com- mon pasture which is now City Hall Park. At the foot of Wall street is a ferry to Brooklyn, having its Brook- lyn landing at the foot of Montague street. CHAPTER IV. WALL STREET TO CITY HALL PARK. Broadway above Wall street to City Hall Park is still a succession of large buildings. At No. Ill Broadway, opposite Pine street, is the Trinity Building, whose southern windows look out on the old churchyard. The block above this on the same side is occupied by the Boreel .Building, 115 Broadway, the site of the old De Lancey mansion, where the Washington Inaugura- tion Ball took place, and which was subsequently oc- cupied by the City Hotel, a famous hostelry in its day. Pine street, which runs into Broadway at the head of Trinity cemetery, is a narrow thoroughfare lined on either side with office buildings. Equitable Building. — Between Pine and Cedar streets, on the east side of Broadway, stands the building of the Equitable Life Assurance Society, which houses 3,500 tenants, and through which pass more than 30,000 people a day. Almost every kind of business capable of being transacted in offices is represented in this building. It is a granite structure in classic style, a certain large effect being introduced by an architectural device in giving two stories the external appearance of one very high story. The present structure was built in 1885, the company at that time acquiring the whole block on Broadway, and a large portion of the block on Nassau street. The entrance is a massive coffered granite Roman arch, leading into a double vestibule with j)ilasters of yellow marble with capitals of Mexican onyx and lintels of Knoxville marble, ceiled with polished marble and bronze friezes. The arcade beyond is 30 feet broad by over 100 feet long, with a great arched skylight of stained glass and polished marble, the walls being lined like the vestibule. In the tympanum of the arch 117 at the end of the main corridor is a mosaic by F. Lathrop, representing the tutelary significance of life itisiiraiice. In the corner of the building at Broadway and Pjne street is the Cafe Savarin, and back of this across the hall, the restaurant of the same name. The Mercantile Trust Company, several banks, and the well- known banking firms of Winslow, Lanier & Co., August Belmont & Co., and Kountze Bros. & Co., occupy the first floor. A large portion of tlie fifth and sixth floors is reserved for the Lawyers' Clul) and a fine law library, the building being a great headcpiarters for lawyers. A portion of the tower is used by the U. S. Signal Service, and it is from this point that New Yorkers as- certain why they are either freezing or sweltering. Here the famous humidity statistics originate. This tower, however, is used cliicfly for the office of the Signal Service, the various instruments for measuring the baro- metric and atmosplieric pressure, for determining the temi)erature, the direction of the wind, the velocity of the wind, and the amount of rain-fall being exposed on an iron tower built up from the roof and consideraV)ly higher than the Broadway tower, to the office in which, however, the records are automatically transmitted. In this office is a small printing outfit for printing signal office charts, made up from reports and observations received from all over the country at 8 A. M. and 8 P. 1\[. On a flagstaff attached to the Broadway tower weather signals are raised, warning mariners against cold waves and storms — flags by day and lanterns by night. The highest temperature reported from this office was 100 degrees on June 6, 1881 ; the lowest, 6 degrees be- low zero Jan. 10, 1875. The wind attained its great- est velocity, 72 miles, on Dec. 81, 1880. The tower roof is no longer accessible to the public, but it is inter- esting to stroll around the roof of the main building and observe the nund^er of superstructures upon it, which form a little village all by tiiemselves. The view, how- ever, is much cut oft' by tall buildings. Passing out of the Ef|uital)le Building, on the Nassau street side, and proceeding to the corner of Cedar street, the fine building of the Miifnal Life Insurcmee Cow- pany (C. Clinton, architect), occupying the block between Cedar and Liberty streets, and one of the finest 118 speciments of Italian Renaissance in the city, is seen. Its most impressive feature is a portico two stories high, the capitals of the polished granite columns on the second story being carved heads emblematic of America, Europe, Asia, and Africa. This building stands upon an historic site, that of the old Middle Dutch Church (p. 123), which, during the Revolution, was occupied as a riding-school by the British calvary, and also as a ])rison. Subsequently it passed into the possession of the United States, and was occupied as a post-oiUce until the present Federal building on Broadway and Park row was erected. Tiie Chmnber of Commerce of the State of New York occupies quarters in this building. It collects and publishes annually valuable statistics relating to the commerce of the State and city. Being composed of leading men in commercial and financial circles it exerts considerable influence upon legislation. The walls of its spacious headquarters are hung with the portraits of many of its distinguished members. Four of the portraits were painted for or purchased by the Chamber. These are of Cadwallader Colden, Lieuten- ant-Governor of the Colony, painted 1772, by Matthew Pratt; Alexander Hamilton and De Witt Clinton, by Trumbull; and of John Sherman, by Huntington — the last in honor of the resumption of specie payments effected by Sherman while Secretary of the Treasury. The Chamber was instituted April 5, 1768, at Fraunces' Tavern, and has an unbroken record of the minutes of every meeting from that date down. Passing up Nassau street to Liberty street and through Liberty street to Broadway, there stands on the north side of Liberty street. No. 57, the Meal Estate Exchange, the object of which is to facilitate the sale and transfer of real estate, primarily in the City of New York, but furthermc^ro, also, throughout the United States. For- merly the }»ublic sales of real estate were effected in the basement of Trinity Building at 111 Broadway. The present Exchange was oj>ened on the 14th of April, 1885. All sales of land in New Yoi'k City under decrees, orders or judgments have to be made in the rooms of this Ex- change. The Buildhig Material Exchange occupies quarters in the rear part of the auction room. The Exchange keeps books in wjiich it registers, for a fee of 119 five dollars, property within the city limits, and even considerable property without the city boundaries offered for sale. It has, also, valuable records, and offers its members other privileges. The first private deed on record in New York City is a conveyance of a lot 30 x 110 feet on Bridge street, between Whitehall and Broad streets, for twenty-four guilders, wiiich is al)out $9.50 in our money. Auction sales of real estate on the Exchange last year amounted to |44,083,763. Leaving the Exchange and proceeding to and up Broadway, the next street is 31aiden Lane. This was once a country lane crossing the island along a stream with marshy shores, and it was called the Maiden's Path, T'Maagde Paatje in the original Dutch, because washwomen jilied their occupation along' the banks of the stream. Here, also, the tanners once had their pits. The street entering Broa'lway opposite is Cortlandt street, named after the old Van Cortlandt farm, part of which was appropriated for opening the street. On the southeast corner of Cortlandt and New Church streets stands the large building of the Coal and Iron Exchange, and on the north side of the street, not far from Broad- way, is the Telephone Building. Western Union Building — The next street entering into Broadway on its west side is Dey street. Here stands one of the most conspicuous buildings in the city, housing one of the greatest corporations in the United States, the Western Uniori Telegraph Company. When this company began operations in 1856, it had 37,318 miles of poles and cables, 75,686 miles of wire, and 2,250 offices. The statistics for messages, receipts, expenses and profits do not exist for this year, but in the following year the company liandled 5,879,282 messages, its receipts were $0,558,925.36, and its profits $2,624,- 919.73. The average toll for a message was a little over $1.04. The marvelous increase in the company's busi- ness, and the manner in which it, itself, has grown with its growth of business, is cleai'ly shown by the statistics for 1890. It had 678.997 miles of wire. Its offices num- bered 19,382. It handled 55.878,762 messages. Its receipts were $22,387,027.91. Its profits were $7,312- 725.10, and the average cost for a message had fallen from a little over $1.04 to a little over 32 cents. In this 120 Iniilding is tlie nerve-center of the network of wire which stretches all over this country, and runs along the bottom of the sea to nearly all civilized countries of the globe ; and one can sit in this building and by simply touching a knob communicate with every place in the world where there is a telegraph station. In July, 1890, the upper stories of the Western Union Building were de- stroyed by fire. The building, remodeled by J. H. Ilarden- bergh, occupies a frontage of 75 feet on Broadway, and inclmling an adjoining building, runs 200 feet on Dey street. The Broadway building is nine stories high, and is built of brick with terra cotta trinnnings. The prin- cipal feature of the Broadway front are three wide arches on piers which extend through two stories, and are crowned with capitals. There are seven arches on the Dey street front, and the top story is formed by an arcade of arched openings, the whole being surrounded by a heavy cornice of terra cotta. The adjoining build- ing on Dey street is of the same general character and design, but the structure is ten stories high. The seventh and eighth stories, communicating with those of the Broadway building, form immense operating rooms 75 X 100 feet, fitted up with the most improved apparatus. There are employed in all departments in these build- ings about 1,200 people; over 2,000 wires center in the operating room; 100,000 messages are handled, on t'le average, in the operating room every day. There are 175 branch ofRces in the city. From this building tele- graphic communication can be had with any part of the world. The company's own submarine cables, which lie at Whitesand Bay, Devon, England, and at Coney Island, N. Y., with land wires in England, and under- ground and aerial cables across Long Island and the Brooklyn Bridge at this end, give a direct connection with London. Thence messages are transmitted, either by the various government systems or submarine cable com- panies, or by both, to all parts of Europe, Asia, Africa and South America. The company has also direct con- nection, through its own submarine cables, which lie be- tween Florida and Havana, with Cuba, all the West India Islands and the northern parts of South America; and by means of the cables of the Mexican and Central and South Auerican Telegraph companies, which start 121 from Galveston, Texas, it reaches all the important places in Central America and on the west coast of South America, and has an alternate route, via the land lines from Valparaiso across the Andes, to the Argentine He- public, Brazil, etc. In the basement of the building are immense boilers and engines which furnish power for the dynamo ma- chnies and for the operation of the pneumatic tubes, which extend to down-town offices in the neighborhood of the exchanges, and to the principal up-town sub- offices, nine in all, and terminate at the up-town central office at Twenty-third street and Fifth avenue. Through this pneumatic system, which comprises about 16 miles of brass tubes, an endless procession of leather boxes, in which are messages of every conceivable import, is kept moving either by the compression or exhaustion of air. John Street M. E. Church. — Opposite Dey street John street runs into Broadway. On the south side of John street, between Nassau and William, is the oldest Methodist Episcopal Church in the United States. It is preserved chiefly for memorial purposes, but also for a business men's prayer meeting, which is held from 12:15 to 1 P. M. during the week, although the worshipers sometimes become so excited that they prolong the meet- ing, their shouts of praise and joy, and their wailings of contrition being heard on the street above the noise of the traffic. The history of this edifice is interesting. In 1766 a few Methodists held services at a private house, and afterwards in a room in the barracks near Chambers street and Broadway, where the New York Hospital afterwards stood. A Captain Thomas Webb, who was a Methodist minister as well as a soldier, spent the winter of 1766-67 in New York. As he preached in his regi- mentals, and was also a man of eloquence, he attracted such great crowds that the room in the barracks became too small and the services were transferred to a rigging loft in William street. Here the society prospered, and in 1768 a little rough stone church was erected on the site of the present edifice. As dissenters were not al- lowed to worship in churches, a fireplace and mantel were built in order to give the place a resemblance to a pri- vate house. Philip Embury, the famous carpenter preacher, built the pulpit with his own hands, and 122 preached the dedicatory sermon the 30th of October. 1768. Tlie gallery was reached by a ladder. In 1817 the structure was taken down and a larger one built on the site. By 1841, however, the-up-town movement had drawn most of the congregation away from its vicinity, and the ground upon which it stood being valuable, the church was torn down, and a smaller one built, the rest of the land being utilized for business structures. Back of what is now 17 John street, though the site is also given as No. 15 and No. 21, stood the famous old John Street Theatre. This was not absolutely the first place of amusement in New York, for tliei-e is a vague record of a theatre as far back as 1740, and in 1750 a company acted in a building on the east side of Nassau street, between Maiden Lane and John street. The John Street Theatre was opened in 1767. The performances began at 6 o'clock, and ladies who desired good places were requested to send their servants by 5 o'clock to se- cure them. The theatre stood 60 feet back of the street, and its patrons were compelled to walk through a badly lighted wooden passage. The interior accommoda,tions were a pit, two rows of rough boxes, and a gallery. The theatre was lighted by candles. During the Revolution it was called the Theatre Royal, and amateur tiieatricals, some of the plays being written by Major Andre, were acted by British officers. Washington patronized it during the time that he resided in the city as President of the United States. Above John and Dey streets, Broadway is crossed by Fulton street, one of the most crowded thoroughfares of the city. This street runs from river to river, and has on its western end Wasli- ington, and on its eastern end Fulton Market. At the latter point is also the Fulton Ferry to Brooklyn. The southeast corner of Fulton street and Broadway is occu- pied by the Evening Post Building ; the Coi/wiercial Advertiser is at the northwest corner oi Fulton and Nassau streets. Fidton Market, Fulton street jind East river is one of the best known establishments of i*^s kind in New York. Including restaurants there are 218 stands, and everything in the way of meats, poultry, vegetables, fruits and fish are supposed to l)e had here. On April 1st, when the trout season opens, there is an especially brilliant display of fisli at the market. Opposite, on the east side of South street, next to the river, is a wooden structure, three stories high, whicli is utilized for a wholesale fish market. Here the fishing-sniacks discharge their cargoes, and early in the morning the place is made hideous with the shouts of licensed venders and retail dealers laying in their stock for the day. Wasliington JIarket, at the western end of Fulton street, is a somewhat similar structure. It is surrounded by the great produce dis- trict of New York, virtually the distiibuting center of tJie country. Saturday evenings, the booths which abound in Vesey and Barclay streets, and from which fruit and produce, hardware, stationery, toys and in fact almost every variety of cheap merchandise is sold, are illuminated by oil torches, which throw a weird, reddish liglit, veiled by clouds of thick smoke, over the scene, the spectacular effect being heightened by the hoarse shouts of venders and the more subdued, but also more steady, roar of the surging ci-owd. Oldest House in New York. — Between Fulton and John streets is No. 122 William street, which is consid- ered by good authority the oldest house in New York. When William street was opened in 1692 from Wall street to Fulton, lots were granted on condition that stone houses at least two stories high should be built within two years. No. 122 was built at that time, and therefore must have been erected Ijetween tlie years 1692 and 1694. The house is tw^o stories high with dormer win- dows in the roof, and is built of narrow Holland bricks. There were large open fire-places in the house, one of which, in the second story, still remains. They were decorated with white and blue tiles representing Bib- lical subjects, and several of these have been preserved. The house is now occupied as a restaurant. Right back of this house was Golden Hill, where the first blood of the Revolution was shed (p. 131), and in the house which once stood opposite, Washington Irving was born. Fulton Street Prayer Meeting. — At 113 Fulton street are the offices of the oldest church organization in the United States, the Collegiate Reformed Protestant Dutch Church, of which the Fulton Street Prayer Meet- ing is a chapel, known as the North Church Chapel. 124 The Fulton Street Prayer Meeting- being decidedly the most interesting adjunct of this ancient organization to the public, and being the only adjunct daily accessible to it excepting on Sundays, this is the proper place in which to give a history of tliis venerable body. The Collegiate Dutch Church was organized in 1628. In 1623 the first church services on Manhattan Island were held by Dutch and Walloon immigrants in the loft of the first horse-mill built on the island, and in this loft the church was organized in 1628. In the spring of 1633, when the Rev. Everardus Bogardus came out from Holland, the erection of a building exclusively for pur- poses of worship was begun on the north side of Pearl street, about midway between Whitehall and Broad streets. During the Indian War of 1642, a stone church was erected inside the fort. The old Middle Church, which occupied the site between Cedar and Jjiberty streets, where the Mutual Life Insurance Building now stands (p. 118), was built in 1729, and was kept in use until 1844, when it was leased to the government of the United States, and was used as a post-office until 1875. The Collegiate Church maintains three churches and three chapels; the churches being at 14 Lafayette place, which is the old Middle Church, Fifth avenue and Twenty-ninth street, and Fifth avenue and Forty-eighth street. The Fulton Street Prayer Meetivg^ is held on the second story of 113 Fulton street. It is capable of seat- ing over 5(J0 persons. Signs on the wall tell the vis- itor that "No person is allowed to consume over five minutes in prayer or testimony," "No controverted religious subject's allowed to be introduced." On other cai-ds are scripture exhortations. Every day a ditTer- ent leader conducts the meeting, so that the style and experience may be varied. As soon as the clock strikes 12, the leader gives out a hymn, generally a familiar one, in which the whole congregation can join heartily. Then there is reading and an introductory prayer. After more singing, the leader reads extracts from the letters wliicli have been received since the meeting of the day before. These number from oO to 100, and are requests for prayers either for the writer or 125 for some relative or friend, for the reform of a drinking- father or neglectful husband, for the forgiveness of some sin that weighs heavily upon the conscience, for children who have been led into sin, for the conversion of infidels. These letters come from all parts of the United States, and even from foreign countries, showing how wide-spread is the fame of the Fulton Street Prayer Meeting. The leader calls on some brother to pray as requested in the letters, and, after singing, tiie meeting is thrown open to all, and prayer follows prayer, the supplications telling of many experiences similar to those which were related in the letters. After this experience meeting the proceedings are brought to a close with the Doxology. St. Paul's Chapel. — On Broadway, between Fulton and Vesey streets, stands St. Paul's, a chapel of Trinity Parish and the oidy colonial relic among the churches of New York. It was the third Episcopal church built in the city. Its corner-stone was laid in 1754 and it was finished in 1756. It seems curious to the beholder to-day that its rear should be towards Broadway, but when the church was built the space between it and the North river was clear of buildings, and the frontage in that direction was considered far more attractive. It is a venerable Gothic structure, the air of antiquity being eidianced by the graveyard which surrounds it. The rear on Broadway is a portico supporting a pediment, in which is a niche occupied by a statue of St. Paul. Within this portico, aiul set in the rear wall of the church, is a monument to General Richard Montgomery, the Revolutionary soldier, bearing the following inscrip- tions: The State of New York caused the remains of Majar-General Richard Montj^omery to be conveyed from Quebec and depos- ited beneath this monument the 8th day of July, 1818. Tliis monument was erected by the order of Congress the twenty-tifth of January, 1776, to transmit to posterity a grateful remembrance of tlie patriotism, conduct, enterprise' and perse- verance of Major-General Richard Montgomery, who, after a series of successes amidst the most discouraging difficulties, fell in the attack on Quebec, 31st December, 1775, aged 37 years. A rough-hewn design of military accoutrements is a feature of the memorial. Richard Montgomery, whom this' memorial honors, was born near Kaj)hoe, Ireland, December 2, 1786. He was commissioned an officer in the British army when he was only eighteen years old. He was conspicuous at the siege of ijouisburg, and in the expeditions against Maitinique and Havana. In 1772 he came to New York and married a daughter of Robert R. Livingston. After a series of successes which made him master of the greater part of Canada, he effected a junction with Arnold, and at 2 A. M., December 81, 1775, attempted to capture Quebec by a coup de main. The first barrier was carried, but as he was pressing on to the second at the head of his troops, he fell with two of his aides, killed at the first and only discharge of the British artillei-y, and his army retreated. In view of Montgomery's Irish birth, it is interesting to know that on either side of him lie the remains of two Irish patriots. To the north of the rear of the chapel is a tall monument erected to the memory of Dr. McNevin, and to the south is an obelisk in memory of TJiomas Addis Emmet. In the east face of this obelisk not far below the pyrimidian is a bust of Emmet in relief, and below this about 6 feet above the pedestal an oval in which is a relief design of clasped hands, the shamrock being on the wrist of one, and stars on the other. Another interesting monument in this cemetery is that to George Frederick Cooke, the English actor. It stands in the eastern part of the graveyard, and was erected by Edmund Kean. Cooke, born at Westminster, April 17, 1756, died from the effects of intemperance at New York, September 26, 1812. His first appearance in tlie United States was October 21, 1810, at the Park Theatre, New York, on the site of 23 Park row, not so very far from where he lies buried. The inscription on his monument: " Three kiiif^doms claim his birth ; Both hemispheres pronoimce his worth," was written by Ilalleck. Upon the monument is also engraved "Erected to the memory of George Frederick Cooke, of the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, 1821." Kean's son, Charles Kean, finding, when here in 1846, that his father's monument to Cooke had fallen into decay, had it repaired, and added to the inscription 127 "Repaired by Charles Kean, 1846." It was, as further inscriptions upon it tells us, again repaired in 1874 by E. A. Sothern, and in 1890 by Edwin Booth, a graceful tribute from the greatest American tragedian to a great English predecessor. After Washington had been inaugurated on the bal- cony of Federal Hall (p. 101), he proceeded to St. Paul's Church, where services where held, and the same relig- ious formality was observed at the Washington inaugu- ration Centennial, when Bishop Potter preached the ser- mon. President Harrison occupying the pew which Washington had used, which is on the left side of the church and is marked by a bronze iaeinorial tablet donated by the Aisle (^ommittee at the Centennial ser- vice. On the opposite side of the church is the pew occupied by Governor George Clinton. On the block above St. Paul's is the Astor House, one of the best-known hotels of the city. In the rotunda, reached through the Broadway entrance, from 2,000 to 2,500 take their luncheon every day of the year, except Sundays. Post-Office. — At the point where Park Row runs into Broadway, forming a triangle bounded by Park Row, Broadway and Chambers streets, was, until the erection of the Federal or Post-Office Building, the beginning of the old common pasture now City Hall Park. Broadway originally ran in a straight line only as far as the point where Park Row now diverges from it. The road then continued on the present line of Park Row to Chatham Square, where there was a hill, the Square being formed by the necessity of laying out the road in a circuitous line so as to make the ascent of the hill as easy as pos- sible; and it was not until Broadway was continued in a straight line from the point where the old Commons be- gan that the triangle, at whose lower end the Post-Office stands, was formetl. It is worth while to stand at the point of this triangle to watch the mighty tide (.f travel that surges and roars 128 in its course up and down Broadway. Great buildings catch the eye in either direction, but hold it only for a moment, for the panorama of humanity, of men, women aiul children, of millionaire and beggar, of vehicles of every description, allows of no diversion. The Buildmg. —The Post-Office Building is used not only for a post-office, but also for the United States Courts, the United States District-Attorney's office and other Federal purposes. Its architecture is Doric, with a suggestion of Renaissance, and has been severely criti- cised. The fact remains, however, that, possibly only by reason of its massiveness or its superior position, it lias the elTect of a dignified and imposing structure. It is a granite building fronting 340 feet on Broadway and the same distance on Park liow, and 290 feet on jMail street, which runs along its northern end. An effective feature of the building is an entrance looking down Broadway, from which the two great fronts on Broad- way and Park Bow spread out. A large dome, modeled after that of the Louvre, rises above the sky-line on the middle of the Broadway side. Business. — The New York Post-Office, like the New York Custom House, is a source of profit to the Govern- ment, yielding some $3,500,000 above expenses. From the last official statement of transactions of the New Yoik Post-Office, prepared for the annual report of the Chamber of Commerce, it appears that during the year 1889, 542,096,905 pieces of mail matter were handled, in 3.230,820 bags, weighing 233,637,960 pounds. The sales of postage stamps, stam[)ed paper and postal cards amounted to $5,192,903.61 ; the sales of newspaper and ])eriodical stamps to $380,213.61 ; the box rents to $50,953.33 ; and the total business of the money-order department embraced 3.183,620 items, amounting to $91,004,253.55. In the registry department 7,471,083 packages of letters were handled. Several statistics relating to the inquiry and dead letter department are also interesting; 46,923 letters and packages were refused l)y persons to whom they were addressed, for postage due ; 8,432 letters were sent to fictitious addresses ; 42,292 letters remaining unclaimed at hotels were re- turned to the Post-Office ; 553,080 letters were either 1 129 misdirected or insufficiently addressed, and of these 480,067 were corrected and forwarded. Auion^ those insufficiently addressed was one from Germany, directed "To my dear son John, New York." This letter was sent to the dead letter office along with 1,162,902 others. In the foreign department 26,058,784 letters were forwarded and 21,601,619 letters were received. The average daily business of the New York Post- Office involves the handling of over 600,000 letters and about 9,000 bags of ntwspaper mail. The most interesting operation of the Post-Office, the receiving and distribution of letters, can be watched from a gal- lery which runs along the Park Row side of the mezza- nine floor. It is most easily reached from the entrance at the point of the triangle looking down Broadway, from Avhich a flight of stairs leads to the floor upon which it is located. Guards are in attendance, whose duty it is to direct visitors to this or any other part of tl)e building. The gallery looks down upon the ground floor. On the southern end of the Park Row side is the city department, and on the Broadway side the outgoing domestic. In these departments are shelves with pigeon holes arranged according to mail routes in the outgoing domestic department, and according to carriers' boxes and branches in the city department. On both sides are long tables where the stamping is done. As fast as the letters are received through the various droj)s in the corridors on the ground floor, they fall upon a table, and as they do so tliey are faced up and passed on to a long table where they are stamped. From the stamper they pass to the separator, and from him to the mail-maker, who verifies the separation, ties the letters according to routes into bundles, putting on each bundle a printed label mai'ked with its direction. Tlie mail-maker's work is in turn verified by the route agent in the postal car, who marks any errors he may discover upon the labels, which are returned to the New York Post-Office, where a strict account is kejit. On the Mail street side are large pouch racks, in v/hich [)Ouches with open maws, receive the letters that are showered into them. The foreign department is on the extreme northeast end. Everything in the Post-Office is done on schedule, and a person can ascertain by inquiry of the proper official at 130 wljat hour a letter posted at some lamp-post np-town sliould reach its destination in the city, or for that mat- ter, in any part of the United States. It may be said, in fact, that the Post-Office grinds out letters like a machine, for if the visitor will waich the carriers' table in the center of the floor, he will see that the carrier has hardly taken the mail for Iiis route out of the box before the a<=sorter is throwing mail into the box for the next deliverv. CHAPTER V. CITY HALL PARK AND VICINITY. City Hall Park, which, before 1875 and before the Post- Office was erected, occupied the entire triangle bounded by Broadway, Park Row and Chambers street, is one of the old historic sites of the city. It was the old Com- mons, used for a pasturage and for public celebrations. Five times each year daring one period of the city's his- tory, a public bonfire was lighted, and wine and victuals distributed at the town's expense. Not far from where the Register's office now is, stood the gallows; after- wards a powder-house was built on the site, it being con- sidered sufficiently remote from the city for the storage of so dangerous an article. In the years preceding the Revolution, when public sentiment here was in a constant state of ebulition, this part of the city witnessed many exciting scenes. A con- test between the noted Liberty Boys and the British garrison resulted in the fir^t shedding of blood on belialf of American liberties, two months before the Boston massacre, to which event that honor has generally been assigned. January 4, 1770, when tiie news of the repeal of the odious Stamp Act reached New York, the Liberty Boys erected a large liberty pole on the Commons, op- posite the barracks. Several times it was destroyed by the soldiers, and as often re-erected by the people. January 18th, two days after the soldiers had destroyed the pole, several Sons of Liberty caught three soldiers in the act of posting insolent hand-t)ills, apprehended them, and marched tiiem toward the Mayor's office. A crowd gathered, and when a band of some twenty soldiers at- temjited to rescue their comrades with cutlasses and clubs, the citizens drove them back u\)on Golden Hill, the highest point of which was just in the rear of what 132 is now 122 William street, the oldest house in New York (p. 128). Several citizens were wounded, and one of them killed in the atf ray. The Sons of Liberty then purchased a plot of land on the Commons, directly opposite what is now 252 Broadway, and there erected another pole, upon which "Liberty and Property" was in- scribed. The Park is now an exceedingly attractive s[)ot and resting-place. At the junction of Park Row and Nassau street is the triangular point upon which tlie handsome granite Romanesque structure of the Times building stands, one of the happiest architectural creations in the city. This and the Pulitzer Building (see below) are by George B. Post. Here is " Printing House Square," entirely occupied by newspaper offices. The statue of Benjamin Franklin, the tutelary divinity of printing in this country, was erected in 1872, after a design by PJassman, at the expense of Captain De Groot. Diago- nally opposite the Times building on the corner of Nassau street, is the structure occupied by the Trihune buildiiiir, conspicuous by reason of its tall tower, and a good example of the Neo-Grec style of architecture. In front of the Trihune publication office is a fine statue of Horace Greeley, founder of the Tribune, by J. Q. A. Ward, which represents the great journalist in a sitting position, as though pausing a moment to think before putting liis pen to paper. Adjoining the Trihune U the Sun building. On the opposite corner of Frankfort street is tiie large new building of the New York World, the Pulitzer Building, with its great dome, affording from its elevation of 309 feet a superb view of the city and its environs. The municipal buildings in City Hall Park are the City Hall itself, the new Court House and the Register's office, or Hall of Records, and two other structures in the north-east corner. City Hall. — The City Hall, although it was built early in this century, is still considered one of the finest, if not the finest, public building, from an architectural point of view, in the United States. The first City Hall in the history of Manhattan Island was a tavern built in 1642 on the north-west corner of Pearl street and Coenties alley, theti close to the shore, and ceded after the organ- 183 ization of a city magistracy in 1653 to tlie city as a Stadt Huys, as which it was used until 1700, when the City Hall on Wall street, at the head of Broad, was built. In 1788 this was enlarged and converted into Federal Hall. In 1803 the corner-stone of the present City Hall was laid by Mayor Edward Livingstoi]. It was finished in 1812 at a cost of more than half a million dt)llars. Its architect was John McComb, whose work, though char- acteristic enough to be justly praised as original, shows the influence of the Adams Bros, and of Sir William Chambers. The City Hall, when cross-sectioned north and south, resembles^he Register Office in Edinburgh, built by the Adams Bros, in 1774, and the main stair- way is somewhat like that built by the same architects in the Glasgow Assembly Kooms. The architecture is classic. The building consists of a central structure of two stories and an attic, snrmounted by a cupola, and two wings of two stories each, the whole resting on a base- ment of brown freestone. The front and sides are of white marble, the rear of freestone. There is a tradition that freestone was used for the rear, because the building then stood so far out of town that it was thought the rear would not be noticed sufficiently to make it worth while to build it of marble. A broad flight of steps leads from the south to an Ionic colonnade, and thence to a large vestibule opening into a corri- dor communicating with the staircases, halls and rooms. A large circular stone staircase faces the entrance from the center of the structure, and on the second floor a circular gallery runs around ten marble Corinth- ian columns. The cupola is surmounted by a statue of Justice and a flagstaff. A person looking at the building from a position in front of it, is apt to be struck by the want of something to lessen the effect of tallness produced by the cupola, and also the monotony of the straight roof line, The architect had, in fact, designed a pedimental foil for the base of the cupola, showing the city arms and statuary, so tliat from this point of view, at least, the building is unfinished. In August, 1856, a spark from the fireworks set off from the roof of the City Hall, at the celebration of the laying of the first Atlantic cable, ignited some materials stored near the base of the cupola, and the latter was entirely destroyed. 134 1 The Imildin^ contains tlie offices of several city offi- cials, amon^them tlie office of the Mayor, which is in the western wing on the gronnd floor. This office is con- nected with the Council Chamber, in which hangs a large painting of Washington by Trumbull, ordered of him by the City of New York in 1790. This is a full length portrait, and is highly interesting not only for its subject and the fact that it commemorates an event of tlie greatest historical importance, the evacuation of the city l)y the British, but also because it is an example of a noted early American painter's work. Washington stands beside a white charger, which is pawing the ground, its liead lowered. The Commander-in-chief's right hand holding the reins rests upon the horse's croup; Ids left arm is akimbo, tlie hand upon his sword- hilt, holding at the same time his chapeau. He is watching the evacuation of the city by the British in the distance. Governor's Room. — The most interesting room to strangers in the City Hall is the suite of large apart- ments on the second floor front, known as the Governor's Room. In this is the furniture used by the first Con- gress of the United States in the old Federal Hall. Di- rectly oi){)osite the entrance is the large desk used by Washington while President; and between the doors leading to the East Room of the suite stands another desk also used by Washington. The furniture is all of mahogany, and calculated to excite the envy of people who can appreciate its beauty and its value as relics. In this room are numerous portraits of State Governors and Mayors. These paintings are not catalogued, and are somewhat difficult of identification, but they are never- theless a valuable portrait gallery of State and local in- terest. There are three Trumbidls in the Govei-nor's room, chief among them being the fine portrait of Gov- ernor Geoi-ge Clinton, who was Governor of the State at the time VVashington was inaugurated President. He was a distinguished soldier as well as a statesman of force and influence, and it is as a soldier that Trumbull has painted him. He stands in uniform with drawn sword, his strong face wearing a look of determination. A battle scene in the background adds to the spirited effect of this picture, which hangs in the east wing of 135 the Governor's Roo;n. Ainoii;^ the other portraits in this winj? are those of Alexander Hamilton by Weimar; and of Van Buren by Inman, the latter hanging over the desk used by Thomas Jefferson, which stands in the space between the two door leading into the main room. On the Jefferson desk is a bust of DeWitt Clinton. Un- der the desk is a huge punch bowl, which whs used in tills city at the banquet and celebration of the opening of the Erie Canal. It was presented to the city by Gen- eral Jacob Morton. Inside is the bibular exhortation : " Drink deep! You will preserve the city and encourage canals." Many, doubtless, would be willing to preserve numerous cities and encourage any number of canals upon similar terms. In the south doorway between the east wing and the main room is a portrait of Washington woven in silk in Lyons, France, at a cost of $10,000. In the main room, there is above the small Washington desk, between the doors leading to the east wing, a copy of Gilbert Stuart's fuU- lengih portrait of Washington. On the north wall is a life size portrait of John Jay, by Weinuir. Jay, a typical statesman of the wig and knee-breeches school, is standing, his right arm resting on the back of a high chair, his left on a book upon a table. Between tiie doors leading into the West Koom is a full-length por- trait of Lafayette, by Morse. Lafayette stands upon a tiled terrace. He wears a black coat, roomy buff trousers, and a brown cloak lined with red is draped about him. In the background are busts of Washington and Franklin, In the west wing are two Trumbulls. the most important of them being a portrait of Governor Morgan Lewis on the extreme right of the west wall. Governor Lewis was a great fighter, not only in the Revolution, but in the war of 1812, and Trumbull has painted him as a soldier. A small portrait of Gen. Williams, who was killed in the second war with England at Lake Champlain, is the other Trumbull. It hangs on the south wall, beside a large iron statue of Jefferson, which was presented to the city by Commodore Uriah Levy. Other portraits in this room is a full-length likeness of William H. Seward, by Inman, and Hamilton Fish, by Hicks, and small portraits of De Witt Clinton and Baron Steuben. Seward is shown as a sandy-haired 186 youMg man in evening dress, standing by a rnstic chair amid rural surroundings. On tlie same floor witli tlie Governor's Room, in the northwest corner of the building, is the Aldermen's Chamber. In tills room are six full-length portraits, one of Jefferson at a table, quill in hand, looking up from liis writing as if wrapped in thought. Monroe, by Van- derlyn, wliose most familiar work, by the way,' is the Landing of Columbus, an engraving of which on our five dollar notes makes parting with these less sad than would otherwise be the case, is shown standing in grace- ful pose in black coat, buff vest and knee breeclies. The portrait of General and President Taylor, and that of Andrew Jackson, who is shown wn'th uncovered head and drawn sword, his eyes flashing with the fire of battle, are also by Vanderlyn. A strong portrait of Clay is by Jarvis. While on the subject of the pamtings belonging to the city, it may be stated that in the office of the Commis- sioner of Public Works, No. SI Chambers street, about opposite the new Court House, are Jarvis' portrait of Bolivar, Morse's of Monckton, and Jarvis' painting of Commodore Perry, a picture of some spirit, but open to the criticism that the small boat in which Perry stands would inevitably have upset had he in reality struck the attitude in which he is. Back of the C!ity Hall stands the white marble build- ing of the New Court House, a structure of Corinthian architecture, three stories high, 250 feet long by 150 wide. Its most imposing feature is tlie portico and steps with columns on the Chambers street front. The State Courts and several of the city departments are located in this building. Register's Office. — To the east of the City Hall stands the old Hall of Records or Register's Oflice, which is one of the most noted historic buildings in the city, being a relic of the Revolution, and in fact the only pub- lic building directly connecting us with Revolutionary times. Beginning with the occupation of New York by the British until Evacuation Day in 1783, it was crowded with American prisoners of war and others who had in- inn eurrod the enmity of the Britisli nuthoritics,HiKl wus ruled over by the infamously brutal Provost-Marshal Cun- ningham. In 1757, when the city was below Wall street, and City Hall Park was in the suburbs, the additional room needed in the City Hall, which then stood on the site of the i)resent Sub-Treasury in Wall street, made it neces- sary to build a new jail. Thus originated the present Hall of Records, which, when it was finished, stood far in the fields adjoining the high road to Boston, sur- rounded by the pillory, the whipping- post, the stocks and the gallows. In the stormy days which preceded the Revolution, obnoxious patriots were imprisoned tlierein. Its interest as a Revolutionary prison begins with tiie occupation of New York by the British. There is a tradition that Hale, the martyr spy, spent his last night here, in charge of Cunningham, his executioner. The American prisoners were half-starved, and other- wise most cruelly treated, and to add to the horrors of this dungeon, they were obliged to mingle with the worst classes of criminals who were also incarcerated here. The well, the sick, the dying, the new-comers, and the prisoners emaciated by long confinement were here huddled together. An account written by a pris- oner says: "So closely were we packed that when our bones ached at night from laying on the hard plank and we wished to turn, it could only be done by word of com- mand, being so wedged and compact as to form almost a solid mass of human bodies. The allowance to each man was 2 pounds of hard biscuit, and 2 pounds of raw pork per week, but no fuel with which to dress it was allowed," It is also charged that American generals and soldiers were here slowly starved to death, or poi- soned by having arsenic mixed with their rations, and here these staunch patriots suffered the tortures of the damned rather than gain their freedom by entering the British service. Ethan Allen, who was confined here, also gives a description of the suffering which the pris- oners endured. It is said that on evacuation day, Cun- ningham refused to release his prisoners, and, when the approach of Washington rendered longer stay danger- ous, he threw away the key. It is believed to be the only Revolutionary prison remaining in the country. i;]8 Ea.-^t liivKii liRiDGE. — Next to the Pulitzer building, is the New York terminus of the East River Bridge, to a stranger, perhaps, the most imposing public work in the United States, and probably the most interesting sight in New York. It is tlie largest suspension bridge in the world, so grand and yet so graceful that it is impos- sible to convey a sense of its beauty in words. To be fully appreciated it should be seen from the river, which is best accomplished by crossing over to Brooklyn and back by the Fulton Ferry, or if one desires a more dis- tant view, by tlie Wall street ferry. It should then be crossed from the Brooklyn side on foot. As early as 1865, plans for a bridge to Brooklyn from this point were prepared, and in 1867 a company was formed. In 1875 the enterprise was made a State work. Its construction was begun after the plans and under the supervision of John A. Roebling, the originator of wire suspension bridges. Work was delayed by tardiness of appropria- tions and other vexatious incidents. The piers were built with the aid of caissons of a size hitherto unknown, that on the New Y^ork side weighing 7,000 tons, with a concrete filling of 8,000 tons. The Brooklyn tower was finished May 18, 1875, it having been built up from a clay bottom 44^ feet below low- water mark. The tower on the New York side was completed in July, 1876, being built up from bed rock 78^ feet below low- water mark. The first wire was run across in June, 1877, and the four huge cables were completed by October 7, 1878. The bridge was opened May 24, 1883. In the course of construction there were twenty fatal and numerousdisabl- ing accidents. In the first accident John A. Roebling was injured and he died of lockjaw, July 22, 1879. His son, Washington Roebling, succeeded him. In 1870 he was stricken with caisson disease, the result of a fire in the Brooklyn caisson, but he was able, thi'ough his wife, to supenutend the construction, and in 1876 was moved to a residence in J*)rooklyii in view of the bridge, from wiiich point he could direct the work. The towers are pierced by two archways, 31| feet wide and 118 feet above high water. The arches are 12()| feet liigh. Tlie floor of the bridge runs through these. This is supported by four cables 16 inches in diam- eter. The bridge is divided into five parts. On the out- side on either side are the roadways for vehicles. On the inside of these roadways are the roadbeds for the trains, which are I'un on the cable system, and between these roadbeds, that is, in the middle of the floor, is the walk for foot passengers. This is upon a higher level tiian either of the otlier divisions. Fares: foot passen- gers 1 cent; cars 3 cents (10 tickets 25 cents); vehicles 5 f ents. The following statistics give an idea of the immensity of the work : Size of New York caisson, 172x102 feet ; size of Brooklyn cais- son, 168x102 feet ; timber and iron in caisson, 5.253 cubic yards ; concrete in well-lioles, chambers, etc., 5,669 cubic feet ; weifjht of New York caisson, about 7,000 tons ; wei}?ht of concrete fill- ing, 8,000 tons ; New York tower le, the Caxton Memorial Bible, Uie first English Bible printed in the United States, the Psalterium Americanum of 1718, the " Vine- gar Bible " (Vinegar for Vineyard in headline of Luke IGO xx), the "Breeches Bible" (''breeches" used in Gen. iii, 7), and the earlier editions of the Rheimish Testa- ment and the Doiuiy Bible. It is especially rich in works relating to the history of the English Bible and the ef- forts which have been made during two centuries- to amend and improve it, and among its treasures are the archives of the American revisers and the collection of books made for their use. Among the few manuscripts owned by the Society is a Hebrew roll containing a por- tion of the Pentateuch, brought from China, where it is supposed to have been in use for several centuries. On Stuyvesant Place, which runs into Astor Place and Third avenue, stands Sf. 3Iark\s Protestant Ejnscopal Church, erected as a private chapel by old Governor Stuyvesant (p. 19), and opened for worship as a public church in 1779. Jn the graveyard in which the vener- able structure stands, Stuyvesant is buried, the stone marking the site where he lies being in the east wall of the church. It was from this graveyard that the body of A. T. Stewart was stolen (p. 164). Open daily, ex- cept Suaday and in August, 9 A. M. to 6 P. M. New York Historical Society. — Open daily, except Sunday and in August, 9 A. M. to P. M. Admission on presentation of a card from a member. The New York Historical Society was founded in 1804, and at once took measures to secure books, manuscripts, statistics, news- papers, pictures, antiquities, medals, coins, and speci- mens of natural history relating to the United States, thus instituting in a comprehensive manner a library and museum of such objects, always, however, keeping as its main purpose the collection and preservation of matei-ial relating to the history of New York. As a result it has a library containing some 75,000 volumes of books, and 2, 700 bound volumes of newspapers issued in America from 1704 to the present time; a large col- lection of manuscripts, public and private documents from the earliest colonial })eriod to the Civil War, and it is exceptionally strong in works relating to American history and genealogy. Here the American in search of 161 a family tree can find a whole forest and select as fine and varied a line of ancestors as that purchased by Major- General Stanley in tlie "Pirates of Penzance." The Society also has a large permanent picture gallery, and while many of the paintings are portraits which have only local interest, many others are valuable works of art. It owns the Abbott collection of Egyptian anti- quities, well-known to Egyptologists through the studies of distinguished scholars, and the Lenox collection of Assyrian sculptures, consisting of thirteen large marble slabs excavated by Layard from the ruins of Nineveh. These are in the basement of the building. The library, art, and Egyptian galleries are on the floors above, the entrance to the library being on the second floor. The walls of the stairway are lined with paintings which have not found accommodat on in the gallery proper, and on the landing of ihe first story at the en- trance to the library is a nude, finely modeled figure of an Indian, a replica by Thomas C'l-awford from his "Progress of Civilization in America," a group exe- cuted by order of the National Government for the Capi- tol at Washington. The art gallery and the collection of Egyptian antiquities are reached from the library. A catalogue is loaned by the librarian. Egyptian Antiquities. — Conspicuous in the Abbott collection of Egyptian antiquities are: 1 — A colossal head in sandstone, the face painted red, being a portion of a statue of Thothmes II 1, who, according to Sir Gardner Wilkinson, was the Piiaraoh of the Exodus, "1491 B.C. This Pharaoh wears the white crown of Upper Egypt, with the sacred serpent, the emblem of royalty, in front. 43 — A small coffin in unbaked clay. This illustrates a curious usage among the Egyptians. At the entertain- ments of the rich just as tiie company was about to rise from the repast, a small coffin was carried round con- taining a perfect representation of a dead body, the bearer exclaijning: "Cast your eyes on this figure. After death, you, yourself, will resemble it. Drink then, and be happy!" 44, 45, and 46 are bricks without straw, possibly made by the children of Israel. 140 — ■. 163 Three wooden cats with ghiss eyes, from the cat tombs of Sakkaron. One has its face gilded and contains the mummy of a cat. 152 — Three large mummies of the Sacred Bull, Apis, found in the Tombs of Dashour. These are perhaps the most valuable exhibits in the col- lection, as these mummies are very rare. It is said no other museum possesses a specimen. On the back of the middle bull may be seen a net of rope used for the purpose of carrying objects between two persons, a stick being passed under the two pieces of wood, and sup- ported on the shoulders of the carriers, together with a large rope bag found in the pit with the bulls, and sup- posed to have been used by their attendants to carry the food for the sacred animals. Two skulls of the sacred bull are found in the same case. 234 — Papyrus in the Hieratic character 36 feet long, and in such perfect pres- ervation that it does not require to be stretched on paper. 460 — A beautifully executed spoon in hard wood, representing a Nubian wonifin swimming, sus- taining in her extended arms a duck or goose which is hollowed out and forms the bowl of the spoon. 554 — An iron helmet with a neck-guard in cliain armor, found at Thebes, with the fragment of a breastplate (575) made of pieces of iron in the form of scales, one of which is the cartouche of the Egyptian king Shishak, who invaded Jerusalem 971 years B.C. 743 — A caricature painted on a fragment of limestone, re[)resenting a lion seated on a throne as a king, and a fox as high priest making an offering of a plucked goose and a feather fan. 766^— A funereal papyrus 22 feet long, exquisitely written in very small hieroglyphics and finely illuminated, being perfect both at the commencement and the end, the illustrations representing the most remarkable events in the life of the deceased. 1,050 — A gold signet ring bearing the name of Shoofoo, the Suphis of the Greeks, 2,325 B.C., a fine \nece of antique gold weighing nearly three sovereigns; hieroglyphic details minutely engraved and beautifully executed. Found in a tombat Ghizeh. 1,052 — Two ear-rings and a necklace found in a jar at Dendera. They are Uiade of gold leaf, have three pen- dants of lapis-lazuli, and two beads of blue glass attached to the centre, where thei-e is also an oval amethyst bead capped at each end with gold. The name of Menes, the 168 first Pharaoh of E-ypt, who reigned 2,750 B.C., is stamped upon the ear-rings, and upon eight oval plates of the necklace. Picture Gallery. — The picture gallery embraces the entire collection of the old New York Gallery of Fine Arts, which contains the Luman Reed collection. In 1867 the Bryan Gallery of Christian Art, and in 1882 tiie Diirr collection were donated to the Society. From 1 to 175, the i)aintings in the gallery are chiefly by early American artists, representing John Trumbull, C. W. Peale, Rembrandt Peale, Benjamin West, Stuart, A. B. Durand, Elliott, Jarvis, Vanderlyn, JMount, Morse, In- man, Cole. 175 — Gainsborough, Ijandscape. Names of old Italian masters are found in the Bryan collection which runs from 176-556. Several, however, are but indifferently authenticated. 178 — Guido of Sienna, "Virgin and Child with Four Saints." From the collection of Artaud de Montor. 183 — Simone Ilemmi, "The Last Judg- ment." This is the picture of winch Michaels wrote a graphic description in the Gazette de France. 197 — Feruyino, "Adoration of the Infant Christ." 198 — Leo- nardo di Vinci, "St. John Weeping." 200 — Ra/phael, "Birth and Resurrection of Christ." The authenticity of this and the last-named picture rests entirely upon critical opinion. 208 — Titian, " The Repose in Egyi)t." The authenticity of this replica is argued from the absence of some figures in the background and the intro duction of a rivulet in the foreground, and a butterfly upon a flower in the right corner, it being presumed that a copyist would liuve made an exact copy. 214 — Faul Veronese, "Abraham Discarding Ilagar and Ish- mael." 220 — Andrea Ilontegna, "The Cruciflxion." The Jewish type is jtreserved in llie features of nuuiy of the flgures, and in this crowded canvas no two pieces of offensive or defensive armor are alike, whicli is worthy of particular remark, as Squarcioni, the master of Mon- tegna, had the largest and most varied collection of an- cient; arms which existed in liis day. 222 — Correggio, "The Virgin and Child, Mary Magdalene and St. Jerome." The original is at Parma. The authenticity of this replica is argued from differences in minor points, as the work of a copyist would probably have reproduced the original with all possil:)le fidelity. 232 — Domenichmo, 164 ''St. Paul borne to Heaven by Angels." 242 — Salvator Rosa, "Landscape," with historical figures. Among examples of the Dutch School are: 259 — Jan Beeresfraten, " Winter Scene," a fine example of this master. 28d—Douw, "The Artist in his Studio," 291— Janvan Eyck, " The Crucifixion," 328 — Portrait signed with R, (Rembrandt). 334-338 — Euhens, the authenticity of 337 has been denied by critics of authority, 343 and 344 — Jacob Ruysdael. 349 — Jan Steen, family scene. 351 — David Tenters, the younger, "Incantation Scene." Early German: 375 — Dilrer, "St. George and the Dragon." 377 and 'S7S—Bolbein. Spanish School: dS3-68Q— Velasquez. 387-390— J7w- rillo. French School: d9S-^02— Nicholas Poussin. 403- 405 — Guaspare Poussin. 421-423 — Antoine Watteau. 43G-Ul—Greu2e. 444 and 445—Vernet. 567-574 are Indian portraits by St. Memin, and 578-591 is a collec- tion of paintings of the Incas of Peru. The Durr collection embraces Nos. 634-812. 634 and 635 — Murillo. 643 — Attributed to Titian, "Martyrdom of St. Lawrence," signed. Possibly the first of three pictures on tliis subject which Titian painted. 644 — Attributed to Titian, "Aretinothe Poet." This picture was found in the wagon of a vivandiere named Machau, who was killed at the battle of Marengo, and finally passed into the private cabinet of Denon, director of the Musee Napoleon. There are many examples of the Dutch school in the Diirr collection, among them, 736 — " Combat of Cavalry," attributed to Rembrandt. Returning to Broadway and continuing up that thor- oughfare the fii-st structure of interest is the large iron building bounded by Ninth and Tenth streets, Broadway and Fourth avenue, and occupied by the dry goods house of E. J. Denning & Co., successors to A. T. Stewart, the famous " merchant y)rince," and the juoneer among the g^-eat retail dry goods dealers of the city. Alexander T. Stewart was born in Lisburn, near Belfast, Ireland, on the 20th cf October, 1823, died in New York April 10, 1876. Having studied for the ministry he came to New York in 1823, where he taught schoolfor a short time, soon afterwards returning to Ireland to secure the mod- erate fortune left Jiim bv his father. He invested it in 165 a stock of Belfast laces and linens whicli hebrouglitwith him to this country, opening in 1825 a store at 273 Broad- way. The venture was successful and his business grew to extraordinary dimensions. He erected the store at Xinth and Tenth streets and Broadway in 1862. His fine marble residence on the northwest corner of Thirty- fourth street and Fifth avenue, now occupied by the Manhattan Club, was for many years the most conspicu- ous private house in the United States. Where Broad- way verges toward the northwest is Grace Church. GrRACE Church. — Open daily (9 A. M. to 5 P. M.). Hardly any building in the city occupies so advanta- geous a position from an architectural point of view, for it faces obliquely down Broadway, effectively ending off the vista from down town. Tlie first Grace Church was built in 1755, on Broadway near Trinity Church; the present in 1846. It is a fine example of ornamental Gothic. The parsonage and the structure joining it to the church, known as Grace House, are in the same style. In front of the parsonage is a pretty garden, with well-kept lawn, flowei'-beds and shrubbery, the whole forming a most picturesque break in the line of business houses. All the windows of the church are stained-glass " memorials. The large chancel window illustrates in 15 separate pictures the Te Deum. In the left transept window are the Patriarchs and Prophets, in the right the Saints. Connected with the church is a pretty little chantry, in which services are held daily, at 4.30 P. M. The congregation is very wealthy and fashionable, and there is an idea prevalent that it is a self-satisfied col- lection of worshipers, partaking of religious stimulants in commodious and elegant quarters, and not caring very much what becomes of the souls of the rest of the world. As a matter of fact, however, Grace Church does a vast amount of arduous mission work, having a chapel on East Fourteenth street, between Third and Fourth avenues, a mission house at 540 and 542 East Thirteenth street, a summer home at Far Kockaway, a library and reading room in Grace House, on the church premises, and a Memorial House at 96 Fourth avenue, where an immense amount of industrial and mission work is accomplished. A pretty feature of this is a day nursery where working women may leave their children 166 for the day, tlie little ones being- entertained and fed by the good people of Grace Olnirch at a charge of only five cents to the mothers. Union Square. — Broadway is intercepted at Four- teenth street by Union Square, one of the prettiest pub- lic parks in the city, covering about S}^ acres, and ex- tending from Fourteenth to Seventeenth street, and from Broadway to Fourth avenue. It is laid out in lawns, with shrubs, shade-trees and flowers. In the center is a pretty fountain with water plants, and on the east side, near Sixteenth street, a driidcing fountain. At the north end of the Square is a broad space for parades and reviews. A cottage within the park faces this plaza and has a balcony for reviewing officers, and along the southern end of the plaza in front of the cottage is a long row of ornamental colored lamps. The Square is illuminated at night by a cluster of brilliant electric lights on a tall pole near the center of the park. There are three statues on Union Square: In the south- east quarter a bronze equestrian statue of Wasliington of heroic eize, by H. K. Browne, one of the finest monu- ments in the city; opposite Broadway, at the southern end of the park. Bartholdi's graceful statue of Lafayette, erected in 1876 by French residents of the city "In re- membrance of sympathy, 1870-1871 "; in the southwest quarter a bronze statue of Lincoln, by H. K, Browne. The Square is surrounded by important business buildings. The most attractive is that occupied by Tiffany & Co., the famous gold and silversmiths, on the southwest corner of Fifteenth street, a visit to which should be made, as its contents form a veritable museum of jewelry and allied arts. Between the Livingston Building and Tiifany's is Brentano's, a noted periodical and book store. The music trade also has its head- quarters at and near Union Square. The most con- spicuous building on the northern side of the Square is that partly occupied by the Century Company, which publishes the Century macfazine and St. Nicholas. Ad- joining this on the corner of Fourth Avenue is the 167 Everett House. Fourteenth street to the west is given up to a great variety of retail business, including several piano warerooms, wliile to the east of Union Square on the same thoroughfare are numerous concert halls and restaurants, Steinway Hall, the headquarters of the piano manufacturing house of Steinway, and on the corner of Irving Place and Fourteenth street the old Academy of Music, once famous as the home of Italian opera, and in days gone by graced by the most fashion- able audiences of the city, but now given over to theatri- cal purposes of a different order. Next to it on the east is Tammany Hall, the headquarters of the famous local Democratic organization. Tiie most noted German theatre in the city, Amberg's, stands at the corner of Irving Place and Fifteenth street. Irving Place ends at Twenty-first street with Gramercy Park. This comprises about an acre and a half, but is not open to the general public, being reserved for those living in the neighborhood. At Sixteenth street and Stuyvesant Square is St. George's P. E. Church (open all day) and its fine parochial house, the headquarters of a vast amount of mission work. Young Women's Christian Association. — On Fif- teenth street, between Union Square and Fifth avenue, is the fine building of the Young Women's Christian Asso- ciation, an organization which accomplishes an immense amount of good in its special field of work. This was founded in 1870 and incorporated in 1873, and its advan- tages are offered more especially to those young women who are dependent upon their own efforts for support. There is a circulating library of some fifteen thousand volumes of miscellaneous reading matter, open daily from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. and from 7 to 9 P. M ; a reading-room open daily during the same hours ; an employment bureau open from 9 A. M. to.5 P. M.. which secures employment for girls with the exception of domestic service; a board- ing house directory, open from 10 A. M. to 1 P. M. and from 7 to 9 P. M., which directs applicants to boarding places, more particularly with private families, thus secur- ing for them as near an approach to home surroundings as possible. Concerts and lectures are also given during the winter and spring, and there is Bible instruction every Sunday on the premises. Admission to the 168 lectures is by ticket obtained on personal application at the building. The support of tlie association is by vol- untary contributions. On the south side of Sixteenth sti"eet, between Union Square and Broadway, is the free circulating library and reading-room of the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, an institution generally known as the Apprenticed Library, free to all persons presenting a certificate approved by a member of the society, which has meeting rooms on the second floor. Connected with the society is a free school of mechanical and free-hand drawing, which is conducted in the base- ment. On this same block, and adjohiing the Appren- tices' Library, is the etching and engraving store of F. Keppel & Co. Similar estal)lishments in this neigh- borhood are Klackner's on the north side of Seventeen! ii street, between Union Square and Broadway, and Wunderlich's on tlie east side of Broadway, between Seventeenth aiul Eighteenth streets. On the same block, but on the west side of the street, is " Huyler's," a noted candy store. Broadway, between Union Square and Twenty-third street, is one of the great shopping districts of the city, and all the establishments mentioned below are worth visiting, as business is carried on there on a colossal scale. On the block between Eighteenth and Nineteenth streets are, at 877, A. A. Vantine& Co.. whose store is a museum of oriental goods ; and, adjoining this, the dry goods store of Arnold, Constable & Co. Ofiposite this is the grea"" carpet warehouse of W. & J. Sloan, filled with articles of domestic and foreign manufacture from the cheapest priced to the most costly. Between Nineteenth and Twentieth streets are, on the west side, the Gorham Mfg. Co., silversmiths, and the dry goods house of Lord & Taylor. The northeast corner of 'Broadway and Nine- teenth street, which is not yet occupied by a business building, and affords the curious sight of a private residence in spacious grounds in the line of the rush and turmoil of traffic, belongs to the Goelet estate, and will doubtless in time be given over to commerce. On the northwest corner of Twenty-first street is the china store of Davis, Coilamore k, Co. At Twenty-third street Bro£4- way crosses Madison Ssjuare. CHAPTER VIII. FIFTH AYENUE. FROM WASHINGTON SQUARE TO CENTRAL PARK. In order to gain a comprehensive idea of Fifth avenue, wliich Broadway crosses at Madison Square, it is neces- sary to proceed down " the Avenue " to its beginning at Washington Square. Washington Square. — Washington Square, originally a Potter's Field, is a public square of about nine acres, bounded on the north by Waverly Place, on the south by West Fourth street, on the east by University Place, and on the west by McDougal street. Washington Square separates the most fashionable from one of the least fashionable quarters of the city; though one does not now, as formerly, in crossing Washington Square, pass from the abode of wealth to the abode of poverty and vice, for the southerly neighboriiood has been greatly improved. It still harbors a large colored population and the " French quarter." The most noteworthy building on the south side of Washington Square, is the Adoniram Judson Memorial Church and Mission, built in memory of the well-known Baptist missionary to Burmah. It stands on the corner of Thompson street. On the east side, between Wash- ington Place and Waverly Place, is the castle-like structure of the University of the City of New York. New York University. — This institution of learning originated in the action of a number of citizens who met December 6, 1829, and considered the establishment of an university, the plan being to add a graduate course to the regular college curriculum. Instruction began in 1833. In 1841 a Medical School was added, and in 1859 170 a Law School. In 1886 tlio graduate division of the School of Arts and Sciences was greatly extended, so that the iustiuition is now really deserving of the name University. The School of Arts and Sciences and the Law School occupy tiie building on Washington Square, the erection of which was begun in 1832. It contains, besides the regular recitation rooms aiul laboratories, the council-room, and an excellent law literary. Among the distinguished niend)ers of the faculty have been Prof. Samuel F. B. Morse, who in a room in the south tower carried on experiments which resulted in the invention of the telegraph, and Prof. John W. r)rai)er's experi- ments in pliotography were carried on in what is now the library. The Medical School occu})ies a building on East Twenty-sixth street, l)etween Fii'st avenue and the East river, opj)osite Bellevue Hospital. Here a course of two years enables the student to acquire, on satisfactory ex- amination, the degree of M. 1),, provided he has studied medicine for an additional year. Part of the structure used for laboratories in chemistry, physiology, biology, pathology, and materia medica is the Loomis LaboratoVv, the money to build and equip it having been given through Dr. Alfred L. Loomis, the donor remaining anonymous. The last matrie'ulatit)ii in this department amounted to 6o3, and included besides many Xew Yorkers and students from other pjwts of the country, natives of Norway, Turkev, Kussia, France, Canada, Persia, Chili, Hungary, Mexico, Germany, Central America, Austria, Bulgaria and Poland. In the University building Bobert Winthrop laid the scene of his powerful novel. "Cecil Dreeme."' Above the University, University Place extends np to Four- teenth sireet. On the east side of this thoroughfare are at Xo. 9 the College for Training Teachers, and at No. 21 the Charity Organization Society. Washington Square, North. ^ The houses on the north side of Washington Square are examples of the old style New York fashionable residences, of brick with white steps and porticoes, white sills and pediments, and in many instances white doors. Between Fifth avenue and University Place stand a row of these lunises in an almost unbroken line, like a conq)any of soldiers. Fifth 171 avenue ends at the north side of tliis square, but a broad tlu)rou<;hrare continues il, throiit::ii the jiark and circling .•ii-ouiul a basin, abovit in tiie centre, winds into South Fit'tii avenue and Thompson street. East of the basin is a statue of Garibaldi, represented as a hero of tlie swashbuckler order, erected bv Italian citizens of New York in 1888. Washington Arch. — The most conspicuous structure in or about the square will be the Washini;ton Centen- nial Memorial Arch, built of marble from designs of ytanfonl White. It will stand 50 feet south of Fifth avenue, 80 feet high with a span 30 feet wide, tiie piers having- a width of 10 feet each. The abutments will be occu})ied by large rectangular panels, and the architrave festooned with garlands. At the base of the piers are to be figures in statuary. It will be flanked by slender mar- ble columns rising slightly al)ove the level of the imposts of the arch and each surmounted by the figure of an eagle. These columns will sup})ort lain{)s on either side near the ground. The erection of this arch was sug- gested during the Washington Inauguration Centennial in 1880, when a temporai'v arch of Mr. White's design was put u[) at Fifth avenue and Washington Square. Tiie arch is now in course of construction, and certain details of decoration have not yet been decided npon, but it will undoubtedly be one of the noteworthy sights of New York. A good idea of Fifth avenue may be obtained by tak- ing one of tlie stages which, starting from South Fifth avenue and Bleecker street, cross Washington Square and then run up Fifth avenue to Fiighty-fourth street, near the Metropolitan jNluseum of Art. Fare, five cents. A number of stages have acconnnodaliou for passengers outside. Fifth avenue from Washington Square to Cen- tral Park is, however, well worth a trip on foot. It is crossed between these points by several great thorough- fares, among them Fourteenth, Twenty-third and Forty- second streets, and near these it is given over to business. Along the rest of its course, Iiowever, it is occupied by fashionable residences, hotels and clubs, and the busi- 172 noss conilucted on it is mostly (f a kind which appeals to people of wealth and fashion. From Wasliin2:ton Sqnare to Fourteenth street the greater part of Fifth avenue is given up to residences. At Tenth street a detour may be made to the Jeffer- son Market police court and prison, Tenth street and Sixth avenue„ To this police court all the prisoners apprehended in the famous "tenderloin" precinct (p. 152) are brought. The prison itself is built on modern principles, and whoever has been through the tenement house district of New York will probably conclude that the prisoners are much better off as far as light and air are concerned than they were before they were apprehended.* On the north side of Tenth street, between Fifth and Sixth avenues, is the well known Studio Building, a large brick structure, the earliest built exclusively for studio purposes. The studio of William M. Chase, one of the handsomest in the city, which may be visited Saturday afternoons, is in this building. Other studio buildings are the Sherwood, 58 West Fifty-seventh street, the building of the Y. M. C. A. (p. 174), and the University Building p. 169). An interesting detour may be made through Four- teenth street to Sixth avenue, both Fourteenth street and the last-named avenue being a i.ong the most crowded retail business thoroughfares of the city. The large bazaar of R. H. Macy & Co. stands on the south- east corner of Fourteenth street and Sixth avenue, and is well worth a visit, for under its roof one can purchase the furnishings of a house as well as an outfit for one's self. It is merely a matter of choice whether the visitor will make a short detour up Sixth avenue and visit some of the large retail houses on that thoroughfare, or do so from Twenty-third street. *By takin J? at this point the cross-town cars which run down West Tenth street to Cliristopher street ferry, tlie visitor can reach the piers of the White Star and Inman lines of steainsliips, and it will be worth wliile to do so if tlie Ttiitoiia\ wiiich liolds the record (5 days, 19 hours and 5 minutes), tlie Majt.slk\ both of the White Star line, the City of Paris or the City of New York, of the Innian line, are in \Hn't. The Canard, Guion and French lines are near here and the Bremen ajid Ilamburjr lines in Hoboken are easily reached by Christopher street ferry. 173 New York Hospital.— Oii the nortli side of Fifteenth street, between Fifth and Sixth avenues, and running through to Sixteenth street, is the hirge building of the New York Hospital, one of the oldest institutions of its kind in the United States, and the oldest in New York, having received its charter from George III, June 13, 1771. During the Revolution, its building, Broadway and Duane street, served for barracks. Not until Jan- uary 3, 1791, was the hospital first opened to patients. Treatment of patients suffering from mental disorder has always been part of the work of the Society. These were treated in the Hospital until the Society purchased in 1816 a farm at Bloomingdale, where the Bloomingdale Asylum was completed and occupied in 1821. The present New York Hospital edifice was built in 1877. Besides the reception and private rooms and the wards of the hospital, there are in the building a fine medical library and patiiological' collection. The total number of patients treated last year was 1,716, of which 306 are to be credited to the Bloomingdale Asylum, where, since 1821, 8,688 patients have been admitted. The original building of the New York Hospital was one of the first structures on Broadway above Chambers street. Although it was not regularly opened as a hospital until 1791, anatomical experiments were carried on until 1788, when a medical student threatened some peeping boys with a cadaver's arm. The frightened boys conveyed the intelligence to others and a mob gathered, u[)on which the soldiers were compelled to fire l)efore the excitement was quelled. The large building on the northwest corner of Fifth avenue and Sixteenth street, is occupied by Judge, and other publications; and on the south side of Sixteenth street, near Sixth avenue, are the church and college of SL Fraticis Xavler, well-known (Jatholic institutions. On the northwest corner of Fifth avenue and Eighteenth street is Chickering Hall, and directly oppo- site it the residence of the late August Belmont. At 154 Fifth avenue is the large building of the Methodist Book Concern; on the southwest corner of Twenty-first street, the South Reformed Church; on the northwest corner the Union Club, the largest i)urely social club in the city; and opposite it the Lotus Club, which includes 174 a number of literary men, artists and actors among its members; on the southwest corner of Twenty-secoml street, Boiissod, Valadon & C'o.'s (Goupil s) art store, where generally a number of fine paintings can be seen on exhibition. Twenty-Third Street. — At Twenty-third street, both Fifth aveiuie and Broadway enter Madison Square. The block bounded by Twenty-second street, Broadway and Fifth avenue, runs here to a narrow point, forming a triangle corresponding to another on the north, but, un- like the latter, occupied by houses. Twenty-third street both east and west of Fifth avenue, is an important thoroughfare. Between Fifth and Sixth avenues it is a crowded retail business block, there being here several of the best known dry goods houses in the city, and also the publishing houses of A. D. F. Randolph & Co, G. P. Putnam's Sons, and E. P. Button & Co. On the north side is the Eden Musee and on the north- east corner of Sixth avenue and Twenty-third street the Masonic Temple. On East Twenty-third street are, at No. 6, the American Art Galleries, where paintings are generally on exhibition, and on the southwest corner of Twenty-third street and Fourth avenue the building of the Younir Men's C-hristian Association. Young Men's Christian Association. — This is virtu- ally a young men's club of a somewhat religious tend- ency, offering also opportunities tor instruction, the club and instruction fees being within the means of nearly every self-supi)orting young man. The Associa- tion offers to its subscribers the privileges of reading- room, parlors, gymnasium, bowling alleys, library and baths, all well furnished. Informal social gatherings take place at stated intervals ; there are " member's meetings" and musical and other entertainments, and athletic clul), outing, rambling, football and tennis clubs. The Association owns an athletic ground at One Hundred and Fiftieth street, near Mott avenue, and boat-houses on the Harlem river near by. Kegulai' competitive sports are here hehl in the spring ami fall. The educational department carries on its work in a liberal and extended manner, classes and lectures being held chiefly in the evening. National Academy of Design. — On the ju^rlhwest 175 corner of Fourth avenue and Twenty-third street is the National Academy of Design, a building- of white and grey marble and blue stone, copied after a Venetian I)alace, with 80 feet front on Twenty-tliird street and 99 feet on Fourth avenue. A double flight of steps rises to the main entrance on the Twenty-third street front, and here a massive stairway leads from a vestibule to the third story in which are exhibition galleries lighted from the roof. The Academy was founded in 1826 and is still by virtue of its age. membership and influence the best known institution of its kind in the country. Its mem- bership is composed entirely of artists, known as National Academicians (N. A.), who form the corporate body, and of Associates (A. N. A,). Exhibitions of paintings and statuary are held in the spring and fall, the galleries being then open from 9 A. M. until 10 P. M. Admission, 25 cents. Connected with the Academy are schools of art, open from the first Monday in September to June 1st follow- ing. Those desiring to become students must submit some specimen of their work. Features of the course are the '' Harper Fund Lectures," the expenses of which are defrayed by a fund given by JIarper & Bros., the publishers. At 143 East Twenty- third street is the Art Student's League, founded June 2, 1875, instruction being given here by artists identified with the progressive tendency of the Society of American artists. The League is soon to occupy fine quarters in the new building of the American Fine Art Society (composed of the Society of American artists, the American Water Color Society, the Institute of American Architects, and the Art Students' League) on West Fifty-seventh street, between Sixth and Seventh avenues, where the various societies named will exhibit. On the southeast corner of Lexington avenue and Twenty-third street is the College of the City of New York, which is under the jurisdiction of tlie Department of Public Schools, the tuition in it being free. On the southeast corner of Twenty-third street and Fourth avenue is the New York Socieiy for the Pre- vention of Cruelty to Children, an admirable institution. ITG ^ In its rooms may be seen a collfction of implements which cruel parents and others liave used in torturing little ones. During its sixteen years of existence it lias rescued nearly 28,500 children, besides sheltering, feed- ing and clothing many more at its room. The President of the Society, Elbridge T. Gerry, was largely instru- mental in its founding. The Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, founded by Henry Bergh, is on the southeast corner of Fourth avenue and Twenty-second street. During twenty-years it has prosecuted some 16.000 cases in court, com|)elled a temporary suspension from work of over 39,000 disabled animals, humanely killed over 29,000 horses disabled past recovery, and re- moved from the streets in ambulances over 5,000 horses. It has a museum of implements with which animals have been cruelly treated, the stuffed skin of a dog killed at a prize fight, with all its hideous wounds, the stuffed skins of the victor and victim of a cocking main, a victim of rabbit coursing and similar objects. Madison Square. — Fifth avenue crosses Madison Square in a straight line, Broadway diagonally, forming with Fifth avenue on the northwest corner a small triangle occu[)ied by a monument to Major-General Worth (see below). At Broadway and Twenty-third street, fronting the Square, is the Fifth Avenue Hotel. Broadway is, from here to Forty-second street, given up largely to fine hotels, theatres, restaurants and shops. In the lines of promenaders who throng its sidewalks there is apt to be a dash of the "off-color" element, which becomes more pronounced as the shades of night deepen, for Broadway, from Twenty-third to Thirty- fourth streets, is the main artery of the "Tenderloin District" (p. 152). A block above the Fifth- Avenue Hotel are the Albemarle and the Hoffman House. The Hoffnum House Cafe is elaboi-ately decorated and hung with works of art, among them Bouguereau's " Nymphs and Satyr." On the east Macjison Square is bounded by Madison avenue, which runs to tlie northern end of 177 Manhattan Island and is almost entirely given over to residences ; on the north by Twenty-sixth street. On the northeast corner of Fifth avenue and Madison Square is the Brunswick Hotel, and diagonally opposite it Delmonico's, the most famous restaurant in the United States. Monuments. — There are three monuments in Madison Square. On the southwest corner is a bronze statue by Randolph Rogers of William H. Seward, Lincoln's Sec- retary of State ; on the northwest corner a statue of Admiral Fari-agut, by Augustus St. Gaudens, presented to the city by the Farragut Men\orial Association in May, 1881, and in the northern triangle, formed by the intersection of Fifth avenue and Broadway, the Worth monument. Farragiit Statue. — The Farragut statue is considered the most artistic work of its kind in >Jew York and in fact one of the finest of modern statues. The sculptor has solved the problem of producing a picturesque represen- tation of a man in modern clothing, giving even artistic value to such prosaic articles as trousers. The pedestal also is a noteworthy variation from the ordinary con- ception of this necessary accompaniment of a statue, and would have been still more striking had the monument been placed on some elevation as the sculptor believed it would be. This pedestal, the plans for which were drawn by Stanford White, is of North River blue stone, and is flanked by a curving wall beneath which is a seat, each of the arms formed by the curved back of a sea fish. Next to the pedestal are allegorical figures; that on the left Loyalty, on the right, Courage. Wavy lines, on the pedestal and over the inscription on the wall, cover the designs and letters like a veil of undula- ting sea. The inscription on tlie right wing of the wall is biographical; that on the left is as follows: " That the memory of a darinj? and sagacious commander and g'entle f?reat-souled man, whose life from childhood w^as given to his country, but who served her snpi-emely in the war for the Union A. D. iVIDCCCLXI-MDCCCLXV, may be preserved and honored, and that they who come after liim and M^ho will owe him so much may see him as he was seen by friend and foe, his couutrymeu have set up the monument A. D. MDCCCLXXXI." 178 The statue which stands upon tliis pedestal is not a mere portrait study. The pose and features "express the seriousness, the coolness and the moral strength which accompany authority, a boldness of conception and an initiative f(U-ce, which are peculiar to x\mericans and of which Farragut was a living example. ***** There is the sailor with his simple and well ordered cos- tume, the frock-coat buttoned close, the skirt loose in the wind, the figure well balanced with the legs a little apart as is natural on a moving ground." The whole figure has the solidity of a living person, not the mere avoirdupois of a lump of bronze. David Glasgoe Farragut was born at Campbell Station near Knoxville, Tenn., July 5, 1801. He died at Ports- mouth, N. H., August 14, 1870. He became a midship- man at the age of eleven, liis first service being aboard the famous Essex during her engagement witii the Alert, and also when she surrendered to the Phosbe and Cherub in the bay of Valparaiso, 1814. Commodore Porter com- mended the gjillant behavior of the lad, Farragut, expressing his regrets that he was too young for promo- tion. In 1823 he took part in the attack on the pirates at Cape Cruz, Cuba. During the next 40 years his promotion was by the slow process of seniority, and when the Civil War broke out he was sixty years old and oidy a Captain. He was then at Norfolk, Va., on waiting orders, and when Virginia seceded he took liis pistols and his family, and hastened north to offer his services to the government. After nine months' idleness at Washington he was then placed in command of the expedition for the capture of New Orleans. Here he perforuied his first great feat of war, which drew the eyes of the world upon him. On the night of April 24, 1862, he passed the forts under tremendous fire and destroyed twenty armed steamers, four iron-clad rams and many fire rafts, silenced the two Chalmette batteries three miles below New Orleans, and at noon the second day had the city })eneath his guns. He next passed the fortifications at Vieksburg. but there being no co-operative land force he repassed them and withdrew to Pensacola for re]iairs. July 11, 1802, he received the thanks of Congress and later was placed fir.st on the list of Rear Admirals. In the autumn he captured Corpus Cliristi, Sabine Pass and 179 Galveston. In March, 1863, he got the Hartford and Albatross past Port Hudson to Vicksburg, establishing communication with the upper Mississippi fleet and blockading the Red River so that no sup[)lies could reach the Confederate forces. Late in May he co-operated at the reduction of Port Royal, and August 5, 1864, he assisted at the capture of Mobile. Here, lashed to the rigging, he dashed to the head of the fleet at the first favorable opportunity. He again received a vote of thanks from Congress and was created Vice-Admiral, and July 25, 1866, Admiral. From 1867 to 1868 he was in command of the European squadron and was received with great honor at every port he visited. Worth Mo7iumeiit. — The Worth monument is directly opposite the Farragut statue. It is of granite, in the shape of an obelisk. On the south face there is a bronze relief of Worth, mounted, and above it an armorial design ; on the east face, cut in stone in a panel of the pedestal, " Ducet amor Patri^B " ; on the north face, a coat of arms, and on the west face, "By the Corporation of the City of New York, 1857— Honor the Brave." The names of battles in which Worth was engaged are sculp- tured on bands around the obelisk. William Jenkins Worth was born at Hudson, N. Y., 1794; died at San Antonio, Texas, May 7, 1849. He entered the army as a private in 1812, became Second Lieutenant in 1813, and subsequently aide to Generals Lewis and Scott. At the battle of Cliippewa he won the brevet of Captain for gallant conduct, and at Lundy's Lane, that of Major. In 1815 he became Captain. From 1821 to 1828 he was instructor of infantry tactics and commander of cadets at West Point. In 1841 he had the chief command in the war against the Semmoles, and in 1842 was brevetted Brigadier-General. He dis- tinguished himself during the Mexican war in numerous battles, especially in storming the City of Mexico. He was brevetted Major-General and received swords from Congress, the State of New York, and his native county. He died of cholera. His remains rest beneath his monu- ment. Madison Square Garden. — The most conspicuous building in the neighborhood of Madison Square, is the Madison Square Garden, the work of Standford White, 180 filling the block bounded by Madison and Fourth ave- nues, Twenty-sixth and Twenty-seventh streets. Its interior is divided into an anipliitheatre, entered from Madison avenue, and holding 15,000 people, surpassing the capacity of any other hall in the world; a theatre occupying the northern corner on Madison avenue, with a beautifully decorated interior; a ball-room, the most elaborately decorated room in the building, in the style of Louis XVI, accommodating 1,500 people; a restaurant; and an open air garden on the roof, which will hold from 3,000 to 5,000 people, and is lighted by anuizeof electric liglits. On the southeast corner of the builduig is the tower, reached l)y elevator, 300 feet above the street, the only point of observation in the upper part of the city from which a view of New York and its environs may be liad. Directly opposite the Madison Square Garden, southeast corner of Madison Square and Madison ave- nue, is the University Club. Returning to Fifth avenue, there is at No. 204 the art store of William Schaus, and at 226 that of Reichard & Co., where pictures may usually be seen on exhibition; on the southwest corner of Twenty-eighth street. No. 246, the bric-a-brac and antique store of Syplier & Co.; at No. 254, the foreign (chiefly French) book-store of Christern; on the northwest corner of Twenty-eighth street, one of the Collegiate Reformed Dutch churches (p. 124), with ata!)let reciting its history; on the oppo- site corner, the fine building of the Calumet Club, and between Fifth and Madison avenues, on the north side of Twenty-ninth street, the Protestant Episcopal Church of the Transfiguration, standing back among well-kept grounds, a most picturesque break in the line of houses, and popularly known as "the little church around the corner," from which so many actors have been buried. Joseph Jefferson relates in his "Autobiography" the circumstances from which it derived its name and its popularity with the dramatic profession. When George llolland, the actor, died, Joseph Jefferson, with a son of the deceased, called upon the pastor of Mrs. Holland's sister, who, however, upon hearing that Holland had been an actor, declined holding service at the church, adding " There is a little church around the corner where you may get it done." "Then, if this be so, God 181 bless 'the little church around the corner,'" exclaimed Jefferson. At the northwest corner of Fifth avenue and Thirty- second street is the Knickerbocker Club, the most ex- clusive social club in the city. The block on the west side of Fifth avenue, between Thirty-third and Thirty- fourth streets, belongs to the Astor estate. On the corner of Thirty-third street William Waldorf Astor, the present head of the house, is erecting a hotel. The fortune of the Astor family is chiefly in real estate^ It is valued at about $150,000,000 and yields an annual income of about $18,000,000. The estate is said to own some 2,700 dwelling-houses. John Jacob Astor, the founder of this great estate, was born at Waldorf, near Heidelberg, July 12, 1763; died at New York in 1848. He was the fourth son of a butcher, and worked for his father until he was sixteen years old. He then joined a brother who was working for an uncle in the piano and flute factory of Astor & Broad wood, London. In 1783 he sailed for Balti- more, with an invoice of musical instruments, but conversations which he had on shipboard with a furrier ctused him to enter the fur business in New York. He was not long in setting himself up in business on his own account as a furrier, and at the same time acted as agent for Astor & Broadwood, being the first regular dealer in musical instruments in the United States. He married Sarah Todd. By 1800 he had accumulated a fortune of $250,000, and then, for tne first time, established himself in a dwelling separate from his store. In 1811, he founded Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia river, Oregon, his idea being to go into the trapping and trading business on a huge scale in the far West, but the war of 1812 interfered with his plans. He died worth $20,000,000. He was founder of the Astor Library (p. 155). The hill which rises from Thirty-fourth street to Forty-second street, is known as Murray Hill, and is named alter an old family which once owned much of the })roperty. When, after the battle of Long Island, the British were pursuing the Americans, who were fleeing toward the upper part of Manhattan Island, Mrs. Murray entertained the English officers long enough for Burr to 182 conduct a retreating column two miles long unobserved within half a mile of the house. The marble structure ou the northwest corner of Thirty-fourth street is now the home of the 3Imihattan Club, which is the represen- tative Democratic club of the city. The building was erected by the late A. T. Stewart (p. 164) as a residence. The house above it is occupied by the New York Club. Union League Club. — On the northeast corner of Fifth avenue and Thirty-ninth street is the fine building of the Union League Club, the representative Republican elul) of the city, and one of the largest and most im- portant politico-social clubs in the United States. It was organized February 6, 1863, incorporated February 16, 1865. May 12, 1863, it occupied its quarters at No. 26 East Seventeenth street. April 1, 1868. it removed to the house southeast corner of Twenty-sixth street and Madison avenue, now occupied by the University Club, and into its present building March 5, 1881. The club was organized during the darkest hours of the Civil War, " to promote, encourage, and sustain, by all proper means, absolute and unqualified loyalty to the govern- ment of the United States." The total membership of the club is limited to ],6')0. The admission fee is $300, the annual dues of resident members $75, and of non- resident members $45. The club has exhibitions of pictures in its gallery, and also holds receptions to which ladies are invited. The income of the club, according to the last annual report, was $296,428.46, of which $133,950 was from admission fees and annual dues. The reeeii:»ts from the restaurant amounted to $62,174.32; for wines, $20,601.45; for liquors, $19,651.54: and for cigars, $32,494.58. The payments for salaries and wages to employees aggregated $56,476.73. The archi- tects of the building wei-e Feabody & Stearns, of Boston. It is in Queen Anne style, of Baltimore pressed brick, with brownstone trimmings an'd ornaments of moulded brick, occupying 84 feet ou Fifth avenue and 132 feet on Thirty-ninth street. The reading-room on the first floor, which runs the entire leuijth of the Fifth avenue side and is decorated in Pompeiian style, has ou each side four pillars with (Corinthian capitals, with reading-stands for periodicals running to the wall and forming pleasantly secluded 183 niches. The stairway to the second floor has a carved oak balustrade and at the first landing there is a great arch of oak, behind which there is a large stained-glass window. The hall of the second floor is vaulted in Moresque style, studded with opalescent glass. On the Fifth avenue side is the well stocked library. Over the north alcove hangs Carpenter's picture of the Inaugura- tion of Lincoln. The dining-room occupies the greater portion of the Fifth avenue side of the fourth floor, being 30x80 feet. The decorations are by La Farge. The large dormer window, already referred to, opposite the door, is a rose window studded with brilliant glass. The walls are paneled in oak in English seventeenth century style. The center of the ceiling rises to a sharp Gothic roof and is decorated in gilt, blue and green. At the southeast corner of Fortieth street is Frederick W. Vanderbilt's house. The reservoir on the west side, extending to Forty-second street, is a good example of Egyptian architecture. It was part of the old system of waterworks and is practically no longer in use. To the west of it, bounded by Fortieth and Forty-second streets and Sixth avenue, is Bryant Park. Metropolitan Opera House. — A detour may be made down Fortieth street to Broadway, on the west side of which, between Thirty-ninth and Fortieth streets, stands the IMetropolitan Opera House, and on the southeast corner of Thirty-ninth street and Broadway the Casino, . a fine example of Moorish architecture. The Metro- politan Opei-a House has the largest auditorium of any opera house in the world, and its stage is exceeded in size only by that of the Imperial Opera at St. Petersburg and the new Opera at Paris. It is built of yellow brick in the style of the Italian Renaissance. The auditorium is divided into a parquet, two tiers of boxes, dress circle, balcony and gallery. It is calculated that the house can be emptied in three minutes. The auditorium is decorated in yellow, which is relieved l)y the red uphols- tery of the boxes. The usual proscenium is omitted, its place being taken by paneled pilasters. In the center, above the opening for the stage, is Lathrop's "Apollo Crowned by the Muses." and among the decorations of the pilasters are Maynard's figures of the Chorus and Ballet. The boxes are 7 feet front by 13 feet deep, and 184 are intended for six, Broadway above Forty-second street is lars^ely ^iven over to fine apartment houses, as is also Seventh avenue, which Broadway crosses at Forty- second street. Returning to Fifth avenue and proceeding \i\) to Forty-second street, there is on the north side of Forty- second street and Fourtli avenue the Grand Central Depot, which extends to Forty-fifth street. This struct- ure, 695 feet k^ng by 240 feet wide, is of pressed brick trimmed with iron painted white. It is used by three railroads — the New York Central and Hudson River, the New York and Harlem, which is a l)ranch of the former, and the N"ew York. New Haven and Hart- ford. The waiting-room and oifieos of the last named are on the south side; those of tiie other two companies on the west. The glass-covered arch from under which all trains start has a span of 200 feet, is 110 feet high and running the entire length of the building, and "is capable of accommodating 12 trains of 12 passenger cars each. On tlie west side is a police station for the officers who are on special duty at the depot. An addi- tion, also extending from Forty-second to Forty-fifth street, and covering about half tlie block between Fourth and Lexington avenues, is used for incoming trains and there are accommodations here for people who are wait- ing for trains. St. Bartholomew Mission. — One of the finest mission houses in New York City stands on the north side of Fortv-second street east of Third aveinie. covering a lot 75 feet front by a little over 100 feet deep. It is a hand- some structure of five stories, after plans of William H. Russell, of Renwick. Aspinwall & Russell. Hi the basenuMit is a large lavatory with baths and showers, and a plunge 22 feet long by 10 feet wide, into which unfortunates who come to the mission uiuier the influ- ence of liquor are dipi)ed. The center entrance on the grouiul room leads to the Rescue [Mission room, which will ;iccommod;ite 1200 ])(M>)ile. T!ie entrance to the dif- ferent stories of the building is on the eastern side, hi the rooms of these stories a great variety of mission work and instruction will be carried on, a special feature being a kindergarten (dass. On the fourth floor there is a gymnasium, and a portion of the roof will be made 185 iiitf) a stmiinor ^ardrrn. Tho hoiiso is i)i the slylc of the Italian IfenfiissMiice. 'I'hc. first story is of Indiana lime- stono witli a ^ninitc wat(M- tabic. From tii(^ first- story cornice, to llie lop llicrc will lie li»,jlit l)nfT l>ri<-kwilli icri'M, (M)ltM, triinniint^s. 'I'hc. ffu/jidc luis three hays filled in with cjist, iron W(»rk juid nnillions fonnin*,^ the frjinu'S of the windows. The fifth story, in tin- c<)rnice, is richly niodele(| in terracotta. 'J'hc mission honse belongs to fh(! pfirisli of /S7. Bdvtholmvc.iv, whose churcli stnnds on the southwest corner of Forty-fourth street, jind Mfidi- son avenue, and is one of I Ik; wen.lt hiest congregations in lluicity, several n)eml)eis of the Vanderbilt, bi.mily wor- shiping there. On the east sidetwe(Mi Forty-fifth and Forty-sixth streets, on tiie west side, the Church of the Heavenly Kest; and on the block above, the; Windsor Jiotcl. Jay (iouf.I). — On thenortheMstcoruerof I'^orty-seventh street. No. hlS) Fifth avenue, is the residence of Jay Could, a brownst.oiK! structure with si. nuinsard slat <■. roof. Jay (lould was born at lioxbury, Delaware Co., N. Y. As ix boy lie worked on his fa.thei-'s farm, JUid to defray the expenses of his tuition at IIol)jirt Academy he be- came book-ke«!per for a bla(daptisms — in tiie center our Lord's baptism by St. John, the baptism of water; to the right a martyrdom, the b iptism of blood ; to the left, a solitary reclining figure, consumed with tiie desire of baptism, the baptism of desii'e, James McKenna. On the south aisle: St. Vincent de Paul, the saint in the central division, habited in stole aiul surplice; on the right hand, the saint und rgoing punishnient on behalf of a prisoner who is seen going on his way rejoicing; on tiie left, the saint holding an infant in his arms and directing a sister of charity to another infant asleep on the pave- ment, James Olwell. The window of St. Elizabeth, St. Andrew and St. Catherine, — St. Andrew in the center taking upon himself the cross; beneath, the scene of his execution; on the right, St. Catherine, leaning upon the wheel with which her cruel torture and death were in- flicted ; below, the nuptials of St. Catherine to our Lord (after Rubens); to the left, St. Elizabeth bearing bread to the poor, which turned into flowers when her unjustly sus- picious husband insisted upon seeing what she was carry- ing so carefully concealed, J. A. and Eliza O'Reilly. The Annunciation, William and John O'Brien; St. Henry in the battle against the Slavonians, the most spirited window in the series, Ileiny J. Anderson. The Immaculate C'onceptioii. commemorating the i)roclama- tion of this dogma by Pius IX, the pontiff standing on his throne in the act of giving the apostolic benediction after having ]>roclaimed the dogma. Above the head of the Pope is a figure oF tlie Immaculate Conception. The statues of St. Peter and St. Paul on either side are copied from the statues in the entrance to St. Peter's, 195 Rome, Diocese of Xewark. The organ gallery between the front towers is 46 feet wide, 28 feet long, "and capa- ble of accommodating a choir of 100 singers. Access to it is had by a spiral staircase situated in the south lobby of the Fifth avenue entrance, which also leads to the passage around the treforium. The organ lias four man- uals and a compass of two and one-half octaves in the pedals, Romcm Catholic Orphan Asylum. — Two large blocks bounded respectively by Fifth and Madison avenues, Fifty-first and Fifty-second streets, and by Madison and Fourth avenues and the same streets, are "devoted to the purposes of the Roman Cathoiit' Orphan Asylum, the asylum for boys occupying the Fifth avenue block, and that for girls the IMadison avenue block. The latter is a comi)aratively new building, and admirably arranged. There are an average of 400 children in each of the buildings, the choir of the cathedral lieing drawn from the boys' asylum. Neither girls nor boys are required to wear a uniform, and are not bronght up with tiie idea that tiiey are dependent on charity, the coui'se of in- struction aiming to make them independent men and women. It includes a common school education, music and singing for both the boys and the girls, and sewing, crocheting, cooking and housekeeping for the girls, and trade instruction for the boys. Each building has a large playground, and a feature of the Madison avenue structure is a beautiful chapel 145 feet in depth. The best time to visit the Female Orphan Asylum is on Wednesday between 12:30 and 2:30 P. M., when the girls are instructed in calisthenics; the boys' asylum, Tues- days and Thursdays at 3 P. M,, when they go through a regular military drill under the command of a militia officer. On state occasions they are uniformed and fully accoutred. The Asylum was organized in 1817, and in- corporated under its present name in 1852. Vanderbilt Houses. — On the west side of Fifth avenue, between Fifty-first and Fifty-second streets, are the resi- dences erected by the late William H. Vanderbilt, the southerly building being occupied by his widow, the northerly by his brother-in-law, W. D. Sloan. On the north side of Fifty-second street opposite the Sloan resi- 196 (lence is the residence of Win. K. Vanderbilt. Cornelius Yanderbilt resides on the noi-thwest corner of Fifty- seventh street. Tlie "Vanderbilt houses," as the two brownstone buildings between Fifty-first and Fifty- second streets are popularly spoken of, were first occupied in January, 1882, Mrs. Vanderbilt throwing them open to her friends on the 17th of that month. They were built, furnished and decorated by Herter Bros, in a little more than two years. Their architecture has been severely criticised, but this makes them none the less objects of interest to the curious. The houses are coiniected by a vestibule in the middle -of the block. The doors leading into Mrs. Vanderbilt's house are reduced copies of tlie Ghiberti gates in Flor- ence. The main hall, carried uj) to the full height of the house, is surrounded by galleries from which the private living rooms are entered. On the ground floor is a high wainscoting of English oak, square columns of dark red African marble supporting the first gallery. Facing the entrance is a large fireplace with a full-sized bronze female figure in relief on each side, and massive scu'ptured marble chimney-pieces. On the east side is a door flanked by carved oaken seats. This leads to the drawing-room. The w^oodvvork of this room is a maze of carving, gilded and glazed with warm tints. The walls are hung in pale red velvet embroidered in folifited and floral designs, crystal being sprinkled among the leaves and flowers to represent dew-drojis. At the northern end of this room a door leads to tlie library, the decora- tions of which are conspicuous for the beautiful effect produced by antique Greek patterns in mother-of-pearl and brass on mahogany and rosewood, the furniture be- ing designed to harmonize. South of the drawing-room is the Japanese parlor, which is modeled and furnished in free Japanese fashion. A ceiling of bamboo with its l)ole rafters, a rich low-toned tapes1>i;y with panels of velvet, a low cabinet in imitation of ftcquer work with innumerable shelves for bric-a-brac running around the room, a large open fireplace with a seat covered with un- cut velvet, are features of this apartment. The dining- 197 room is finished in the style of the Italian Renaissance, an arrangement of glass-faced cases supported by rich consoles resting on a beautiful wainscot of rich golden- hued English oak, delicately carved. The ceiling is elliptically arched with oblong paneh carved in designs of fruits and foliage in various tints of gold, and fres- coed with hunting scenes by Luminals. The main stair- case, which rises from the north of the main hall, is lighted by nine stained windows by Lafarge. The entrance to the picture gallery is from the west end of tlie hall, but there is a sejiarate entrance from Fifty-first street. The picture gallery is, of course, a strictly private one, but artists of recognized rank and connoisseurs who apply through acquaintances of the family have little difficulty in obtaining admission to it. On a niche of the broad arch ovt-r the entrance from the house is Alma Tadema'sel'dssiG " Entrance to a Theatre." Opposite, before the fireplace recess, hangs DetailWs famous painting showing two wounded French officers carrying a mortally wounded comrade out of a shattered church betvveen two lines of Prussians who have fallen back on either side to make way for them. As the ar- rangement of the pictures is changed from time to time as accessions are received, the exact order of their hang- ing cannot be given. The collection embraces Viherfs capital "Cardinal and Monk Destroying Forbidden Books," the Cardinal, however, first gorging himself on the contents. ViUegas' "Royal Christening," the baby shrieking lustily, much to the consternation of all concerned; the same artist's picture of a Turk sensu- ously outstretched on a divan listening to the music of a fair almond-eyed slave; Fortuny's " Dancing Arabs," five wildly whirling figures, tvvoof them discharging their firearms, watched by their motionless comrades, wrapped in the folds of their white burnous; five Millets: a {peasant girl of sturdy frame carrying water; peasant mother teaching her daughter how to knit; woman emptying a pail into a glass jar just outside the door, near which are ducks and geese; shepherdess wrapped in a cloak knitting; two hunters in a snowy wood. Vcm Marcke's cattle collected outside a thatched stable in an orchard. 3Ieissonier's picture of a commandant in a green buff coat, white trousers and top boots, straddling 198 pompously before an open fireplace, puffin*? at his pipe, and frowning over a dispatcli handed to him by a sol- dier, while a brother officer in scarlet lounges on an easy chair. The same artist's picture of troops halting while officers question a peasant. Gerome's "Sword Dance" of a beautiful slave before an Oriental dignitary, and an Oriental soldier leaning against the pillar of a court- yard and raising an earthen cup to his lips. Zamocois' "King's Favorite"; Roydefs "Florentine Dames and Cavaliers at a Concert"; Breton's Peasant Girl busy at her distall, seated on a large stone, with shore and" sea for background ; Bougiiereaii's "Italian Flute Player"; Frere's "Two little Water Carriers in a snowy street". The girl has set down her pitcher to rub her chilled hands. Dauhigny's "Cattle on the Shore of a Quiet Lake"; i^osa j5oM/iez of 68 We have, therefore, here a complete example of tiie Egyptian mode of preserving the dead. On the upper shelf of 78 are mummied feet and heads from Thebes, showing the appearance of the features and the 207 feet several thousand years after they were embalmed. Though the features can be easily traced the heads are ghastly objects after all, and one cannot help thinking that it is preferable to change into a plain white skeleton rather than to remain a brown and shrunken mummy. In 75 are tlie mummy, cartonage and the wooden figure of lounofirte, who, to judge from the liierogliphics on the casket and the carved features, must have been a young woman of beauty and wealth. Case 73 contains, beside an inner casket and mummy, three closets for the presei'vation of funerary statuettes, and two boxes divided within into four compartments for tlie protection of funerary jars. The collection of miscellaneous Egyptian antiquities begins at case 48 on the west wall of the Hall of Ancient Sculpture and Egyptian Antiquities (C). This contains one of the largest known collections of funerary statu- ettes ("respondents") of porcelain, clay, wood and terra cotta. These were buried with the deceased in mummy cases and closets, such as are exhibited in case No. 7*8 above. Those in blue porcelain are from the remark- able discovery of tombs of kings and princes of the twenty-first dynasty at Deir-El-Bahari. These statu- ettes hold in their hands hoes and picks and have baskets slung over their siioulders. The belief was tliat wiien the deceased entered the Elysian Fields and work was demanded of him by the supernatural authorities there, these statuettes would rise up and perform the labor required of the deceased. This collection of statuettes extends through cases 48 to 53 and are from the Maspero collection. Other collections represented in the Egyptian antiquities are those of J. W. Drexel, Jas. Dougia-s, and Farnhain. Besides the statuettes re- ferred to, tliere are : In 49 a statuette of an Egyptian gentleman, a wooden head-rest showing that the Egyptian gentleman had very uncomfortable sleeping accommodations ; a mummified Osiris on a block con- taining the mummy of a sparrow; in 51 to 53, besides funerary statuettes, the fine Egyptian bronzes of the Drexel collection, there being on the floor of 51 a statuette of Osiris standing upon a hawk-shaped coffin containing the mummy of a hawk (the gift of R. M. Laimbeer); in 66, top shelf, several mummies of cats, and in otlier parts of the case bricks, with and without straw, stamped with the cartouche of the rulers, chiefly of the eighteenth dynasty, during which the Ciiihlren of Israel were captives in Egypt, the inference being that some of these bricks were made by them. A collection of ancient Egyptian textile fabrics will 1)6 found in standards in the Hall of Ancient Statu- ary and Egyptian Antiquities (C) and in the Plall of Ancient Statuary and Inscriptions and Bronzes (H). Many of the specimens are woven in coloied patterns and comprise articles of apparel, both plain and orna- mental, and mummy cloths, with designs or attached borders, which were found at Sakkarah, Faiyum and Ahkmyn. They date chiefly from the second to the eleventh century of the Chiistian era. The most in- teresting standards are those in the Hall of Ancient Statuary, Inscriptions and Bronzes (H), which were presented to the Museum by George F. Baker, who pur- chased them of Emile Brugsch Bey, curator af the Boulek Museum, now at Gizeh, Cairo. No 1210, in the southwest standard of H, shows what may be the earliest pictures of episodes in the life of Christ, as they date from the third century A. D. These standards, with those in the Hall of Ancient Sculpture and Ancient Antiquities, form the most complete collection of its kind in tiie world. Greek Vases. — There are two small but excellent col- lections on this side of the first floor to be disposed of before taking up the sarcophagi chiefly from tlie Cesnola collection, to which all the other objects in the rooms on this side of the building belong, and which, therefore, should be considered together. The first of the snuill collections referred to consists of very fine specimens of Greek vases contained in four large table-cases standing on the floor of the Room of Ancient Terra Cottas (F). These were discovered at Alexandria, and are admirable specimens of Greek art in Egypt. They were probably mostly nuide and sold as water jars (hydriae), but, as the Greeks cremated their dead and no other strictly funer- ary jars could be obtained, hydriae were used for ciner- ary purposes and inscribed in ink or scratches with the name of deceased and the date of his death. On the west center pier between this room and the 209 Hall of Ancient Statuary and Egyptian Antiquities is the Wai-d collection of clay tablets from Assyria and Babylonia, a small but excellent cabinet. Hall of Ancient Sculpture, Inscriptions and Bronzes (H). — The Sarcophagi in this hall form an interesting continuation of the mummy series. No. 6, which stands against the east wall in the passage between the Room of Ancient Terra Cottas (F) and the Hall of Ancient Statuary, Inscriptions and Bronzes (H), is a superb marble sarcophagus of Roman workmanship dating from 1 or 2 A. D., discovered near Rome, the sculpture being of the vigorous Roman type. 5 is a Greek sarcophagus from Tarsus, presented by Abdodebdas. It is of Roman style of the time of the Roman Empire. One side is unfinished, showing that it was intended to rest against the wall of the tomb. 3 is the casket of a king of Cyprus, who reigned al)0ut 600 B. C, found at Golgos in Cyprus. On the southern end of this casket is a rep- resentation (scul[)tured) of the myth of Perseus and Medusa. Perseus has cut off the Medusa's head and is making off with it in his wallet. Pegasus and Chrysaor spring from the neck of Medusa. Perseus and Medusa are of Assyrian features and in Assyrian garb, showing the Assyrian origin of a myth which has always been attributed to the Greeks. The east side of the casket is pure Greek, but is evidently copied, because, although it represents only a hunt, those engaged in it are fully armed for battle. One of the most interesting of all the specimens of sarcophagi is No. 1, as it shows quite a remarkable combination of various styles of art, and seems to reflect the conflux of nations which, from time to time, inhabited Cyprus. It was discovered at Amatlius, a Phoenician city of Cyprus, in a tomb 55 feet below the surface of the soil. A large part of the cover is missing, but the rest is in an excellent state of preservation. The friezes show not only the Egyptian lotus, but also the egg and tongue design of Greek origin. The borders at each end are Phoenician, as are the panels, the south end showing the Cyprian Venus, a nude figure, excepting for the necklace, in her characteristic attitude supporting her breasts with her hands. The Sphinxes on the pediments are again Greek, as they have female heads. There are also Greek figures on the sides, 210 among them being warriors in cliariots; the number of spokes in the wheels of the cliariots differing, thus con- tradicting the theory which was once ingeniously advanced that it would be possible to detei-mine the relative age of sculpture containing chariots by the number of spokes in the wheels, the suggestion being that the fewer the spokes the more ancient the piece of sculpture, as it would show ruder and more primitive methods of manufacturing chariots. On the east wall of the northern end of this hall are panels of ancient figures and glazed Persian tiles. Against the east wall in the north corner are the frag- ments of the bronze crabs taken from the base of the obelisk (Cleopatra's Needle) now in Central Park. Cesnola Collection.— Hay m^ disposed of the other col- lections and miscellaneous objects on the eastern side of the first floor, it is now possible for the visitor to view sys- tematically the Cesnola collection of Cypriot antiquities. Cyprus is one of the largest islands in the Mediterranean, the Kittim of the Bible. Its first colonists were probably the Phoenicians of Tyre; and the most ancient antiquities in the Cesnola collection are objects of Phoenician make. There were two Egyptian occupations, and the island at various times paid tribute to Persia and Assyria, so that we have among the antiquities coming immediate] v after those of Phoenician origin, Egvptian and Assyrian rehcs. From about 333 B. C. until 58 B. C. the island was held by the Ptolemies and was then reduced to a Roman province. The antiquities of these epochs are Archaic Greek, pure Greek and Gra-co-Poman. The various divisions of the collection are arranged to show the progression from the Phoenician through the Egyp- tian and Assyrian, Archaic Greek and Greek to^the Gra?co-Roman. These antiquities were discovered by General Louis Palma Di Cesnola, wiiile U. S. Consul at Cyprus. Soon after he had settled in the consulate at Larnaca he became impressed with the thought that as Cyprus had been the great central meeting point of the ancient races above menl ioned, relics of tiiese races might be discovered, and he decided to institute excavations, which he conducted with great tact and perseverance. Tiie objects excavated wereremarkal)lv well preserved owing to the fact that the Cvpriots built their walls of 211 mud. In 1874, after the Metropolitan Museum of Art had in 1873 acquired the collectionofCypriot antiquities made by Cesnola, up to tliat year, he continued his ex- plorations on the site of ancient Curium. Discovering the mosaic pavement of a temple in that ruined city, he sank a shaft some 20 feet below it. Here he found a vaulted passage leading to a door, on breaking tlirough wliich he entered the treasure chambers of the temple, four vaulted rooms containing objects in gold, silver, pottery, alabaster and bronze. Piles of silver dishes which had become attached to each other by oxidation, gave evidence of the richness of the room. These ob- jects had great inherent value, but they were even more valuable as an illustration of art history, which had been a sealed book heretofore. The temple of Curium was destroyed certainly as early as G B. C, possibly earlier. It is at about this time that the history of Greek art commenced, and as the treasures of this temple dated back to an earlier period, it will be seen that the dis- covery was of impoi'tance from an historical point of view, affording as it did a knowledge of Greek art older than any yet known. In fact, wlien Gen. Di Cesnola opened the doorway at the end of this vaulted passage, he opened the entrance to an art history and a history of man and of civilization jireceding the earliest known art liistory of Greek art, and leading back to the source of Greek civilization. Indeed, in the liglit thrown upon the origin of Greek art by this collection, the Greeks ap- pear as inspired adapters of the art of earlier civiliza- tions, rather tiian as originators. The valuable Curium treasure was also obtained by the Museum. The authen- ticity and integrity of the Cesnola collection was attacked and vindicated in court in what is known as the Feuer- dent-Cesnola trial, which lasted through November and December, 1883. Statuary, Inscriptions and Bronzes. — Arrranged in the Hall of Ancient Statuary, Inscriptions and Bronzes (fl) against the piers on the west side and on the center piers, beginning with case 10, is a collection of statuary illustrating the various epochs of art represented in the Cypriot discoveries — Phoenician to Gra3co-Roman ; No. 16, in case 11, is an Assyrian statue in a remarkably fine state of preservation; No. 19 is a statue, probably of 21^ Heracles, with a lion's skin for a cloak and head-dress; No. 22, in case 13, an Assyrian head with wonderfully fine sculpturing? of the hair, was borrowed and copied by Ruskin. in the east wing of this hall are cases of Phcenician, Cypriot and Greek inscriptions. On the north wall are the bronzes discovered among the Curium treasure, including large cauldrons with ornamental handles, vases of great beauty, mirrors, weapons of various kinds, tripods, the bit frohi a bridle, and the candelabra of a temple. Terra Cottas. — In the Hall of Ancient Terra Cottas (F) beginning on the north wall, against which sta)id cases 1 to 6, are the terra cottas of the Cesnola collec- tion, a lai'ge number of pieces of great interest to stu- dents. The pieces from 1 to 82 are various representa- tions of Venus, beginning with the Semitic Venus or the Venus of Cyprus, a nude female figure supporting her breasts with her hands (the first examples having animal heads), and running the ethnological gamut to pure Greek, 82 being a gi-aceful little figure of a Greek Venus with a child, very much like a sculptured representation of a Madonna and child. Then comes a series of statu- ettes of musicians, probably of the temples. The little group, 120, seems to represent a judge (in the center) watching a sentence executed upon a thief, the lamb held by the man on the right probably being the object stolen. In the lower part of cases 1 to 6 are larger ob- jects of statuary, including 248, a finely preserved Phoeni- cian head as shown by the pointed features; and 268, a woman's head in pure Greek style. The terra cotta heads in these cases are unique as far as size is con- cerned. The cases continue from 7 to 13 along the east wall of this room. There are, beginning on the upper shelf, horsemen from the rudest kind of Phoenician art, showing the giraft'e-neck horses such as are found in the early pottery of the Cesnola collection, to the fine figure 418, and the elegantly sculptured horse's head beside it. Six pieces, 334 A-F, found in one tomb, evidently illus- trate the funeral procession of tiie person buried there. In the cases around the piers are a large number of terra cotta lamps. Sculptures. — The Cesnola collection continues in the Hall of Ancient Sculi)lure and Egyptian Antiquities (C). 213 There is a line of seven floor-cases on the east side of the hall. Remarkable in case 2 is 188, a colossal Assy- rian head. It was claimed in the Feuerdent-Cesnola trial that the nose was added to this statue, and this poor Assyrian gentleman was submitted to the indignity of having a hole drilled in his nasal organ. No. 157, in case 13, in the line ranged against tiie east wall, is the most famous exhibit in the Feuerdent-Cesnola trial. It was claimed that General Di Cesnola had att mpted to palm this off as a figure of Venus holding a mirror, and that the miiror hi\d been taken from some other statu- ette and patched upon 157. A sculptor testified that the restoi'er had been so enthusiastic in his work that he had added a sixth toe to one of the feet, but this was after- ward shown to be the string of a sandal. In case 30 are various representations of the god Pan. The contents of 31 to 32 are chiefly Archaic Greek and Greek heads of Artemis. The objects in 33 and 34 are Gra^co-lloman; in 85, unclassified. The marbles of the Cesnola collec- tion are in 43 and 44, the latter containing a large votive ship, from which m.en are being cast overboard to sea monsters, found at Tarsus in 1876 and presented by John Todd Edgar. Case 45 contains fine alabasters from Pliocnician, Egyptian and Greek tombs at Cyprus, chiefly from the Curium treasure. In 46 are various articles in seipentine and in 47 several green-glazed terra cottas, the collection extending to 57, inclusive. Pottery. — In order to continue the inspection of the Cesnola collection it is necessary to cross the Hall of Casts and Ancient Sculpture (B) to the Hall of Glass, Laces and Ancient Pottery (D). The collection of pot- tery begins in the northwest corner of the Hall, being arranged in wall and floor cases, the latter containing large vases. The gem of the collection is the large vase on the top shelf in floor case 7. This it from the Curium treasure, and is known as the Great Vase of Curiu^a. It is of brown clay, and covered from top to bottom with decorations. In shape it is unique in the co lec- tion, being the only jar on a high foot, aiul the only vase with four handles. The lid is crowned with a little hydria. From irs size and profusion of decoration this vase is one of the finest sjiecimens of its class, and in its early days must have been a superb work of art. 214 Cases 8 ainl 9 around tho northwest pier, and also 10 against the west wall, contain sinall objects, among' tlieni luuneroLis whorls from Cyprus spindles. On the second shelf oL* 11 is an object looking liive a cluster of small salt cellars. This was probably used for partridge eggs, which are still sold as a delicacy in Cyprus in little wickers closely resembling in shape this article of ancient pottery. In 12 are milk pans; on the third shelf of 18 near 19 and in 19 several infants' feeding-bottles, per- forated so that they could be hung around the neck by a string. On the top shelf of 20 are two vases which are filled through a hole in the bottom, a funnel extending to within a very short distance of the top. In 21 and 22 are probably the first objects in the collection made with the potter's wheel. Two little vases in 25 are arranged to show how the trefoil mouth, which has been so much praised in Greek vases, originated in Oriental art. No. 2,800 is a snuiU vase of exquisite shape crowned with an ox head. If this ox head were to be cut in two horizontally, the snout, ears and back of the head would form a trefoil, and in order to show this more clearly a pretty little tre- foil vase is placed next to it. On the first shelf of 26 and extending along the corresponding shelf to 30, is a series of vases having for nozzles a pitcher or jar held by a female figure leaning against the neck of a large vase. No. 2,283 B in 29 shows thi'ee cups on a hollow pipe at different heights, so that water will run from the highest into the other two and lastly from the nozzle. Case 30 contains a vase, ihe top of which is modeled after the head and bust of a woman. In 34 are vases on whic'h are rudely painted human heads with mouths for noz- zles; in 37, vases with trefoil mouths, tiie perfect develop- ment of which by the Greeks may be seen in case 43; in 38 a number of cu[)s, the adaptation of whose shape by the Greeks may be seen in 44. One of the gems of the collection, a lovely slender ami)hora, stands upon the middle of the fourth shelf in 41. Cases 45 and 46 con- tain some specimens of Italian potteiy presented by Gen. Cesnola to the Museum. Olass. — Most of the pieces in the Museum's unequaled collection oC ancient glass belong to the Cesnola collec- tion. No other nuiseum contains glass dating back to 800 B. C. like the specimens of Assyrian, Phoenician 215 and Egyptian glass in cjise 59, against the eastern cen- ter pier of the room. The gem of tiie ancient glass collection is in 47. It is of unrivaled iridescence, sup- posed to liave been caused by the liquiescence of the bodies in the tombs in which the glass was found. There ai-e other fine examples of iridescence in the collection. The glass, excepting the cabinet dating back to 800 B. C, is mostly from 1 B. C. to 1 A. I). The Marquand collection of Gra^co-Koman glass begins at floor case (32 on the east side of this hall. Probably the most valuable piece in tliis case is a yellow cup con- spicnous on the top step, which bears an inscription and also shows figures of warriors. On the fourth step of case 64 is an exquisitely shaped blue vase. In the lower parts of these cases are specimens of mediaeval French glass, the finest si)ecinien being a cup with a crown and fieur-de-lis as a cover, on the west side of case 63. Cases 65 and 66 contcun tiie Jarves collection of Vene- tian glass. Case 65 dates from 15G0 to ]600, the finest specimen being a large yellow vase standing upon the coil of a sea serpent. Case 66 dates from 1600 to 1700. Ill it is a superb toilet cabinet entirely of glass. Case 67 dates fi-om 1700 to 1750 and shows a falling off in the grade of workmanship. Case 68 dates from 1750 to 1800, the naost interesting objects in it being two candelabra. Miscellaneous. — Down the center of this hall are standards containing a collection of laces, one standard presented by Mrs. Robert L. Stuart, and another by Mrs. Joim Jacob Astor. On the center pier between this hall and the Room of Carved Wood and Mnsical Instruments (E) is a case of shrines, a b'^quest of Mrs. A. M. Minturn. Tlie Room of Carved W^ood and Musical Instruments contains a remarkable exhibition of the latter, conqwsed of the Joseph W. Drexel and J. Crosby Brown collections, consisting of antique and modern musical instruments of gi-eat variety in construc- tion and nationality, many of them Oriental and aborigi- nal, all of them being ethnologically arranged, and thoroughly labeled. Besides the instruments tliere are in this room a finely carved clock of English work, dated 1640, a valuable cabinet inlaid with Oriental poi-celains, and a case of drawers and shelves, to which a gold medal at the Centennial Exhibition of 1876 was awarded, it be- 216 ing mentioned in the Committee's report as the most elegant piece of wood carving and designing in the Ex- position. It was presented by August Pottier. North of this room is the Hall of Modern Sculpture (T), which contains several notable examples of the work of Ameri- can and European sculpture, among them a cast of liarye's '' Lion and Serpent." Staircases. — There are staircases (K) at either corner of the Hall of Ancient Statuary (H) and of the Hall of Modern Sculpture (I). These latter are respectively the southwest and northwest stairways. Tlie southwest stairway is hung with Fagnani's pictures of the Nine Muses, which are portraits of New York women, and with ten other paintings, of which 19 is Murillo's "Holy Family," the picture known as the "Brevoort IMurillo," presented by the late John Jacob Astor J5risted, The southeast stairway has, among a number of old masters, a fine example of Antonio PolJajuolo (Floren- tine School, 1438 to 1498), "St. Christopher and the Infant Christ " (110), cut from the walls of the chapel of the Michelozzi Villa and presented to the Museum by Cornelius Vanderbilt, and the " Head of a Cherub." by Correggio (111). Among the paintings on the northeast stairway is Rahen's " Lions Chasing the Deer " (120). Paintings. — The fine collection of paintings by both old and modern masters which is owned by the Museum, is distributed through various galleries on tlie second floor, and in arranging the descriptions thereof, it has been thought best to conduct tlie visitor consecutively through the galleries in wliich are hung the modern paintings (the most interesting to the general public) and then througli those which contain examples of the old masters. The visitor will find the most noted of the modern paintings in the old western gallery U, which is reached from either of the staircases on the western side. The southern end of this gallery is filled with 78, the " Horse Fair." by Rosa Bonheu?', presented by Cornelius Vanderbilt, in 1887. It was first exhibited at the Paris Salon in 1853, but it did not find a purchaser. In 1855 she offered to sell it to Bordeaux, lier native town, for 12,000 francs ($2,400). The town refusing to purchase it, she sold it to Gnmbert for 40,000 francs, painting for him a quarter-size replica, from which Thomas Landseer 217 made the famous engraving. Gambert sold the original ill 1857 to William P. Wright, of New York, for 80,000 francs. In 1870 he offered to re-purchase it for 50,000 francs, but the offer was refused. Wlien the Wright collection was sold the picture was bought by A. T. Stewart, and at the sale of his collection it was purchased by Mr. Vanderbilt for $53,500. The replica from which the engraving is made, is now in the National Gallery at London. A second, still smaller replica, brought on its last sale $20,000, and a still smaller water color drawing of it, $12,000. Another of the modern masterpieces in this gallery which is among the first pictures of the col- lection to be sought out by visitors, is 71, Ileissonier^ s " Friedland, 1807," which hangs between the doors of llie west wall. It was presented to the Museum by Henry Hilton, in 1887, having been purchased bv him for $66,000 at the Stewart sale. The beholder can hardly fail to be impressed with the magnificent swing of horses and riders as the regiment of cuirrasiers dashes past Napoleon I in review on its way to battle. The horses seem almost as if they might leap pell mell from the canvas into the open. Meissonier writing to Mr. Stewart, January 7, 1876, says : " I did not intend to paint a battle— I wanted to paint Napo- leon at the acme of his glory— I wanted to paint the love, the atloi-ation of the soldiers for the great Captain in whom they had faith, and for whom they were ready to die. * * * ^g to the execution, only a painter (and one of great experience) can say what time labor and patience have "oe^n brought to bear upon tills work to produce a single whole out of so many di- verse elements. The growing wheat is even proof of the diffi- culties I have encountered in covering it with the dust which hides so many things." A third work apt to attract attention is 93, Detaille's, the " Defence of Champigny," a spirited battle scene, for, although the enemy is not visible, his nearness is felt. Groups of officers and soldiers, sappeurs making embrazures in the wall, barricadiers, artillerists placing guns in position, and the spirited detail on the balcony, all combine to make this a notable canvas full of the fierce energy and action of war. It was also presented by Mr. Hilton. There are several other notable paint- ings in this gallery, among them Fortuny's portrait of "A Spanish Lady in Black," a picture of surpassing grace and a model of portraiture, on the west wall be- 218 tween the door and the north wall. Next to it is 76, DannaVs " Un Quatiior" (A Quartette), a capital work, presented by Mrs. Wm. H. Dannat. The oldest of the singers,^ evidently the basso, sits on a bench singing away in an unemotional style, as if his duty consisted solely in producing a certain amount of sound. A hand- some young girl beside him, though evidently weary, is trying to force a professional smile. The tenor stand- ing behind leans gracefully against the wall, and tenor- like is smiling while singing as if flirting with some fair listener. 128, at the southern end of the west wall, L' Hermit fe's, "The Vintage," presented by William Schaus, shows a robust young woman resting her kindly look upon a vigorous boy half recumbent upon the ground devouring grapes, while a bronzed man and a hale old woman are busy cutting bunches from the vines. The broad, vigorous treatment of the figures and vineyard is admirable. About opposite thisisBaixe7-as\s, *' Boatmen at Barcelona" (105), presented by George I. Seney, a group of gossiping old salts, so true to life that you can even picture the features of the one whose face is turned away. 89 and 96 are capital little sheep scenes by Mauve, the wool being delightfully thick and soft looking, while 86, Clairhi's "Moorish Sentinel," bequeathed by Stephen Whitney Phoenix, may be pointed out as a fine example of rich coloring. Prom this gallery the visitor shoukl pass into V to the west. The most striking canvas in this gallery hangs on the north wall, 41, Francois Auguste Bonneur, " Woodland and Cattle," with its flood of beautiful light, presented by James Clinch Smith and his sisters. Next to this in interest is 32, LeroU&s " Organ Rehearsal," presented by George I. Seney, a large canvas, which has all the disen- chantment of a peep behind the scenes. Among other ])ictures in this gallery is Pilutifs "Thusnekla at the Triumphal Entry of Germanicus into Rome," painted to order for the late A. T. Stewart and presented by Horace Russell. Before being sent to tiiis cy Fifty-ninth street, nortii by One Hundred and Tenth street, east by Fifth avenue, west l)y Eighth avenue. It is an evidence of how liuman skill, guided by artistic taste, may make glad the waste places. Work upon it was begun in 1857, up to wliicli time the ground now covered by what is considered one of the most beautiful pleasure grounds in the world, was a dreary expanse of rock, brush and swamp. Perhaps the very ruggedness of the original has contributed not a little to the beauty of the finished work , the liuge boulders which here and there project from tiie beautiful lawns, or stand guard on the waters of the lakes and ponds, adding not a little to the im- pressiveness of the landscape. General Features. — Central Park is a little over 2^ miles in length, and a little more than half a mile in breadth; its area being 840 acres, with 9 miles of drive, averaging in width 54 feet and extending in places to a width of 60 feet; 5f miles of bridle paths averaging 16A feet in width, and 29i^ miles of walks. Some 400 acres are wooded, the trees, shrubs and vines put ont since the opening of the park numbering over 500,000. The benches distributed throughout the park, phiced as much as possible in secluded nooks and within the sheltering shade of the trees or arbors, have a seating capacity of 11,000. The various drives are usually alive with every variety of fashionable equipages; the main entrance for this picturesque procession being at Fifth avenue and Fifty-nintli street. Those who are interested particu- larly in fast horses can see these entering the Park at Fighth avenue and Fifty-ninth street. The Park De- partment has made a grand division of Central Park into the South and North Park, regarding the new Croton Reservoir as the line of division. For the beauti- ful landscape effects in which the Park abounds, the MAP OF CENTRAL PARK. Br |M 1 , , , , Chiid r cnsca w nf Th AVENUE i mnnnnnnnnr, 2-TheDir^"°"""'''°"*^''"^ Play-ground 5-Music Pavilion. J, "y' 6— Carriage Concourse. -Menager,e and Park Offices. ,_The Terrace Esplanade. 4— Beethoven. o n u j i- 8— Bethesda Fourt. 9-The Casino. 10— Auld Lang Syne. II— The Camera. 12— The Belvidere. 13— Carriage Concourse. 14 — Block-house ; War of 1812. 15— Mt. St. Vincent. 16— Inscope Rock. 17— Women's Cottage. 18 -Men's Cottage, ig— Women's Cottage. 20— Summer-house. 21— Summer-house. 22— Summer-house. 23— Schiller. 24 -Cave. 25 — Carrousel. 26— Ball-players' house. 27— Children's Cottage. 239 public is indebted to Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaiix; the architectural features being by Calvert Vaux and the late J. Wrey Mould. Entrances. — The entrances to the Park, nineteen in number, are called gates, and it is the intention of the Park Commissioners, when sufficient money for carry- ing out their purpose is on hand, to justify the term by putting up gates of handsome architectural design at the various entrances. The names and locations of the entrances and localities, as officially given, will be found on the accompanying map of Central Park. Lakes and Reservoirs. — The lakes and ponds in the Park have an area of 43^ acres. The largest of ihese is the Lake, whose shores, at about its middle, approach so closely as to virtually form a sti-ait dividing it into two parts. It covers al»out 20 acres. The Pond, cover- ing about 5 acres, lies in a lovely depression just to the west of the entrance of Fifth avenue and Fifty-ninth street. The Conservatory Water, 2| acres, is near Fifth avenue and Seventy-fourth street, and derives its name trom its vicinity to the site reserved for a conservatory. The Pool, the Loch, and Harlem Meer, are a chain of ponds covering respectively 2 acres, 1 acre and 12^ acres in the North Park. There are two reservoirs, the older and smaller in the center of the Park, extending from Seventy-nnith to Eighty-fourth street; the newer and larger lying nearly entirely across the Park between Eighty-sixth and Ninety-sixth streets. A walk and bridle path lead around it. The reservoirs have a com- bined area of 143 acres. Boats, Goat Carts, etc. — On the Pond are the so-called Lohengrin boats, 22 feet h)ng and holding twelve people and consisting of a catamaran propelled by a stern velocipede, which is concealed in a swan, whence the boats derive their name. Fares: Adults, 10 cents; children, 5 cents; adults, twelve tickets for $1 ; children, twenty-five tickets for $1. On the Lake are regular row boats. Fares : Circuit of the Lake, 2 miles, one pas- senger, 10 cents; children under twelve yeai's of age, 5 cents; six adults, 50 cents; six children, 25 cents. Party boats: One person, half hour, 30 cents; each additional person, 10 cents; children, 5 cents. Boats without boatmen can be engaged at tlie boat house at 240 these rates, but a deposit of |2 i^ rcquiiv^l, fioats can be had until 11 P. M. At the ]\Iall are donuys and gnat carts, 10 cents; near the ball beautifully shaded stretch of ground, rows of stately trees forming green arched colonnades, and between the main walk and the side paths and drives are beautifully laid out lawns. At the southern end are the statues of Halleck, Scott, Shake- speare and Burns. Around the band stand are orna- mental benches and the Beethoven statue stands in an open space to lihe right. On days when concerts are given the Mall is so crowded as to be practically impas- sable. The Terrace, at the northern end of the Mall upon high ground, is bwilt of yellow stone and from it three stairways lead down to the Esplanade, the central stairway being sunk under the road and leading through 248 a brilliantly tiled and ornamented arch, or, perhaps, more properly speaking, hall, with niches on either side. The two side stairs are open, the sides bearing stone panels with delicately carved designs of birds, animals and fruits. The view from the edge of the Terrace is exceedingly picturesque. On the Esplanade, which runs to the edge of the Lake, is the Betltesda Fountain, with its sparkling jets and silvery drip from the u])per to the lower basin. Across the Lake is its bold northern shore, with grey rocks, whose ruggedness is softened by deep foliage; then comes the green of the Ramble, with the grey tower of the Belvedere in the background, the whole being half framed in by the soft green mounds that rise on either side of the Esplanade. Li the main basin of tiie Bethesda Fountain are a nundjcr of rare water plants. These are all completely lal)eled and in- clude the Lotus, the beautiful, flesh-colored Lidia water lily, the Papynus plant and tiie beautiful South Ameri- cad floating pond-weed. The Bethesda Fountain is a representation of the story of the Pool of Bethesda, St. John (5, 2-4). Its crowning feature is the figure of an angel who appears to have just alighted on a mass of roe*k. and extends her hands as if blessing the waters which gush from it into the upper basin of the fountain, overflowing this and dripping into the lower basin, throwing a silvery veil over four figures symbolic of Temperance, Purity, Health and Peace. The fountain was designed and the figures were executed by Emma Stebbins. A tour in and out among the bays and under the bridges of the Lake in one of the boats is quite neces- sary to a thorough appreciation of the beauties of the Park. A stranger should also not fail to take the })ath which leads along the Lake around to the boat house and past it over the high ground to the north to some of the most romantic portions of the Ramble, over rocky hills and down into surprisingly beautiful glens, finally crossing the graceful Bow Bridge, wdiich spans the Lake at its narrowest point. Taking the road to the west of this bridge the Cherry Hill Concourse is reached, a point to which people in carriages drive, as it commands a superb view of the Lake and its shores. Then, leaving the Concourse and following the path along the drive to 249 the west, and ]>assiii^ tlie Webster statue one has a con- tinuous view of the western end of the Lake wliich is much hirger tluxn the eastern division. At the extreme northwestern end is Bank lloek Bay, named from its bold rocky shores. It is crossed by a l)ridge at its point of entrance into the Lake and taking this bridge and following the path to the right, one reaches — tlirougli what seems a natural cleft in the rock shutting out every sign of civilization — the Cave. This is one of the most romantic parts of the Park, for after emerging from the Gave and ascending a flight of narrow stairs hewn out of the solid rock, one can take a wild and rocky path along a little stream called the Gill and thus pass through some of the most beautiful parts of the RamhJe, which, as a whole, is probably the most se- cluded part of the Park, being rocky, well wooded and having here and there little clearings like meadows on a mountain side. Here, in fact, one is shut out from ab- solutely any suggestion of the city which lies at either side. Emerging from the Ramble over Vista Rock, one reaches at tiie southern end of the old receiving Reser- voir, the Be'vedej'e, a pretty granite building, from whose tower, 50 feet high, an excellent view of the Park and its surrom. dings is had. A path leads from the Belvedere to the east to the Obelisk {p. 240) and to the Metro2Jolitan Museum, of Art (p. 202), and to the west of the entrance at Eighth aveinie and Seventy-ninth street opposite the American Museum of Natural History (p. 231). Proceeding fi"om the Obelisk to the new receiving Reservoir, which lies like a great lake almost across the entire Park, one can take a walk which leads all around it and enjoy the fresh breeze as it blows over the water. It is worthwhile to inspect the South Gate House. Af- ter reaching the North Gate House, at the northwestern extremity of the Reservoir, it is best to take the path which leads down to the North Meadow, a broad stretch of tree-dotted grass where the tennis grounds are. From here walks lead across the extreme westerly drive to the Fool which lies far down below the drive and is the first of a series of lakes and water courses which terminate at the" extreme northeasterly part of 250 the Park in Harlem. Jleer. The road not only goes around the Pool, hut leads from it luider a ridge of natural rock along the little stream which connects the Pool with the Loch. At the head of the Loch a beauti- ful little brook conies trailing down among the rocks from the North INIeadow and the path itself, after leav- ing the Loch, follows another stream until the visitor find himself at Harlem Jleer. To his right is a high promontory and by ascending this to a point which is known as the Old Redoubt, he can obtain a fine view of the Meer. Re then, instead of doubling his steps, can ])i'oceed from the Redoubt in a southerly direction towards 31owit St. Vincent, across the drive and take a path which will bring him to the head of the Loch. This he crosses by a bridge and then ascends the high and densely wooded westerly shore of the Loch. Reach- ing the westei'ly drive, he can cross it to what is known asHarlem Heights, or he can keep to the right and plunge into a maze of woodland and rocks rising to the height on which the old Block House stands, whence he can descend and leave the Park at One Hundred and Tenth street. 'J^o the west of the northern end of Central Park is Morningside Park, rising toward Bloomingdale Heights. A conspicuous feature of this view will be the great Protestant Episcopal Cathedral of St. John the Divine, to be built on the lleights, near Morningside Park. CHAPTER XT. EAST, WEST AND NORTH OF CENTRAL PARK. East, West and North of Central Park are several club liouses and armories and many of the great charitable institutions of the city. East of Central Park. — There is a perfect cluster of these and of other public institutions east of Central Park from Sixty-fifth street to Seventieth street, extend- ing west as far as Madison avenue, and east to Third avenue. Among these are the Armory of the famous Seventh Regiment, a brick building with granite trim- mings, 200 feet by 405 feet, occupying the entire block bounded by Fourth and Lexington avenues. Sixty-sixth and Sixty-seventh streets, with a fine drill hall (200 feet by 300 feet), staff, reception and company rooms, a library, gymnasium, and rifle range, 300 feet long; Mt. Sinai Hospital, Lexington avenue and Sixty-sixth street (p. 60); Association for the Improved Instruction of Deaf Mutes (p. 61) ; Foundling Asylum, Sixty-eighth street and Third avenue (p. 61); Presbyterian Hospital, Madison avenue and Seventieth street (p. 60); Normal C'ollege, Fourth avenue and Sixty-eighth street (p. 150). On Sixty-seventh street, between Third and Second avenues, is the liandsome structure of the New York Turn Verein. On Sixty-seventh street, between Fourth and Third avenues, are the headquarters of the Neiv York Fire Department. Connected with this is an en- gine house a? ,d a drill yard, and this is the best place for the visitor to study the rperations of the famous New York Fire Department, and to inspect its apparatus. The force is under the supervision of a Board of three commissioners. The active force, uniformed, is divided into a Chief of Department, 2 Deputy-chiefs, 12 Chiefs of Battalion, 83 Foremen, 90 Assistant Foremen, 136 Engineers of steamers, and 678 Firemen; making a total of 1,002. The stables for training horses until they be- come so expert that as soon as they hear the signal they leave their stalls and take their places at the shafts, the 253 harness dropping upon them by an atitoniatic arrange- ment, is in West One Hundred and Thirty-ninth street, between Columlnis and New Amstenhim avenues. The pay-rolls for 1889 aggregated a little over |1, 605,000. There are 56 engines, two of them vessels for work in quenching fire along the water front or among shipping, and 20 hook and ladder companies. The average num])er of alarms responded to by each company during last year was 116; the average number of fires at which each com- pany performed duty, 50; there having been 2,834 fires; the total loss being |4, 142, 777. Fifth avenue continues to tiie Harlem river, its course, however, being interrupted from One Hundred and Twentieth to One Hundred and Twenty-fourth streets by Mount JNI orris Square. The Harlem river, which begins at One Hundred and Twenty-seventh street and East river, flows for its greater length northwest and north, thus causing the sudden narrowing of the island at tiie north. There is nothing in which the stranger will be particularly interested in the east side of the city, between Central Park and the Harlem river. The Har- lem is crossed by a railroad bridge at Second avenue, connecting the Harlem river branch of the New York, New Haven & Hartford road and the suburban rapid transit system with the Second avenue branch of the Manhattan elevated railroad; at Third avenue by a bridge for foot passengers and vehicles; Ijy a railroad bridge connectecl with the Grand Central Depot system at Fourth avenue; by a bridge for foot pas- sengers and vehicles at Madison avenue; by what is known as the McComb's Dam Biidge or Central Bridge at McComb's Lane; by a bridge connecting the New York & Northern R. R. with the Manhattan elevated road at Eighth avenue; by High Bridge ([). 256), Washing- ton Bridge (p. 256), and King's Bridge, and by a railroad bridge at tiie point where Spuyten Duyvil creek enters the Hudson. In the annexed district, as so much of the city as lies above the Harlem river is called, are a num- ber of new parks which, when fully laid out, will add greatly to the beauty of this part of the city; the Catholic Protectory at Westchester; St. John's College, Fordham, a notable Catholic educational institution, and Woodlawn Cemetery. 253 West and Northwest of Central Park. — A new section of the«eity has been springing up west of Central Park and on the narrow northern end of Manhattan Is- land during the last ten yeai's. Tiiis promises to be the most beautiful quarter for residences on Manhattan Island, for the houses have been built since modern ideas of beauty and fitness have come into vogue. As a result there are entire blocks where houses are built in architectural harmony and monotonous rows of brown stone or brick are not to be seen here. This section of the city also has the additional advantage of a number of broad, well laid out thoroughfares (see Driving, p. 65). Riverside Park. — On this western sid5 of the city is Riverside Park, which runs along the bluff aJjove the river from Seventy-second to One Hundred and Twenty- ninth street a distance of nearly three miles, the average width being about 500 feet. It is really little more than a broad avenue laid out with a road, sidewalk and bridle path, the slope to the New York Central & Hudson River track being in a somewhat wild, unfinished state. A striking feature of the Park are the beautiful views of the I'iver which it affords. West End avenue, running parallel with it on the east is being built up with hand- some residences, and it is believed by real estate experts that the future home of fashion will be on these two avenues, it being the opinion that business will drive fashion eventually out of Fifth avenue. GranVs Tomb. — Near the upper part of Riverside Park is the tomb of General Grant, who was buried here August 8, 1885, with the honors of war, the pro- cession being the finest and the crowd of people the greatest ever seen or gathered in New York before the celebration of the Washington Inauguration Centennial. The tomb is now a plain vault, but the committee hav- ing in charge the monument to General Grant have chosen a design by John H. Duncan. This will be an imposing architectural memorial, having a square base 100x100 feet at the ground line and a height of 160 feet in the base line. The lower part of the structure is to be of the Doric order and the upper of the Ionic. It is to be ci-owned by a dome supported by four arches, under which are galleries, from which a superb view up 254 the river and of ilie .surrouii(linhe is said to have captivated in 1756. The mansion sub- sequently passed into the hands of the celebrated Madame Jumel, who, after having been twice a widow, married Aai'on Burr, then 78 years old. High Bridge. — On the bold shores of the Harlem river between One Hundred and Seventieth and One Hundred and Seventy-fourth streets is High Bridge Park, in which there is a small reservoir, and a good restaurant. The river is spanned here by High Bridge, now overshadowed as a "sight" by the East River Bridge, but still one of the features of the landscope, along the Harlem. It was built to conduct the old Croton Aqueduct across the river. It is 1,460 feet long, and composed of tuirteen arches, the crown of thchighest being 116 feet above the river. Foot passengers only can cross the bridge. A fine feature of the view to the north is Washiiigton Bridge, which crosses the Harlem river at One Hundred and Kii2:hty-first street. It has two superb central arches of 510 feet span, their crowns being 135 feet above the river. The side arches, four on the west end and three on the east, are of granite faced with pressed stone. Just northwest of High Bridge between One Hundred and Seventy-third and One Hun- dred and Seventy-fifth streets are the buildings of the Juvenile Asylum. This portion of the city is called Washington Heights, and the station on the New York Central & Hudson River R. R., which runs along the foot of the bluff. Fort Washington. There were earthworks hero which the British captured in NovemV)er, 1776. Fort George, where the cable road stops, derives its name from a 257 redoubt wliicli was li(>re (liirin<^ tlie Revolution. The uppei- end of the ishuid is known as Innwood. Battle of Harlem Heights. — The Battle of Harlem Heights was fought September 16, 1776. Washington, after the battle of Long Island, crossed over to New York and retreating to the upper part of the island made his headquarters at the Apthorpe mansion, which stood at what is now the corner of Ninetj^-first street and Ninth avenue, until the fall of 1890, when it was torn down to make way for the opening of the street. Wash- ington was here l)ut a short time, and it is said that he liad not left it ten minutes to follow his retreating col- umn before Howe and his staff moved in. Washington then made his headquarters at the Morris house, now known as the Jumel mansion (see above). The British were thus in possession of what is now known as Bloomingdale Ileights, the Americans intrenching them- selves on Washi!ig;ton or Plarlem Heights, the battle, lu:»wever, always being spoken of as the battle of Harlem Heights. This elevation was separated by a ravine from l^loomingdale Heights, and although this district is all built up the depression along the line of the old ravine is still clearly discernible at One Hundred and Fifty- seventh street from the bridge over the Boulevard con- necting the two wings of Trinity Cemetery. The morning of September 16 Washington sent out Colonel Knowlton with 125 men to reconnoitre. De- scending a ravine, which led to the river thi'ough what is now Audubon Park, Knowlton followed the shore at the foot of the bluff to a point not far from the location of Grant's tomb. He and his soldiei's here climbed up the bhitf and came smldenly, just as the sun was rising, u[)on the left flank of tiie British vanguard, under General Leslie. The British rushed to attack the hand- ful of Americans. Knowlton, waiting till they came within six rods, poured a telling fire into their ranks. After eight rounds, fearing that he might be out-flanked and surrounded, he retreated slowly and in good order down the bluft", retracing his steps along the shore for about two and one-half miles, then, having climbed the west slope of the ravine, faced about, and, sending for reinforcements, stood his gi-ound. Leslie, leaving 300 men in ambush on the river front, led 100 of his men on 258 to the edge of Bloomingdale Heights on the south side of the ravine. Washington orck'red Major Leitcii with his Virginia riflemen to join Knowllon and to endeavor, with Colonel Reid, to get in the rear of the enemy. The British, seeing a mere handful of Americans, rushed down the slope of the ravine to a fence near a little rivulet, which purled along the bottom of the ravine towards the Hudson. The Americans charged them, and after a sharp skirmish drove them back. By an error, the British reserves were attacked in the flank instead of in the rear, and at a point which is now One Hundred and Fifty-third street in the Boulevard Knowlton was killed, and Leitch also fell. The Americans were then reinforced and drove the British through the woods into a buckwheat field. It w\as now nearly noon, and Howe and his officers at Bloomingdale, hearing the firing in the direction of Harlem Heights, and beconnng uneasy for the safety al Leslie's com- mand, sent some 6.000 ])icked Highlanders and Hessian troops on the double-quick after him. Tliis attachment encountered Gen. Greene, and from 11 to 2:30 the battle raged over territory extending from Manhattanville or One Hundred and Thirty-fifth street to about One Hun- dred and Fifty-fifth street. The fiercest conflict of the day was waged on the ground now occupied by Trinity Cemetery. The British were finally driven down Break- neck Hill, a part of the old Kingsbridge Hoad. There were about 5,000 Americans to 6,000 picked British and Hessian troops, and the result of the battle not only gave Washington an opportunity to withdraw his forces witiiont further molestation, but also inspired his troops, who had found themselves able to cope successfully with the flower of Howe's command, with new courage, and did much to efface the demoralizing influence of the de- feat on Long Island. Tiie above is adopted from sev- eral greatly vai-ying amounts of the battle of Harlem Heights. CIIAPTEP. XII. PUBLIC CHARITIES AND CORRECTION. Public Charities and Correction. — The Depart- ment of Public Charities and Correction has its head- quarters at 66 Third avenue, where permits to visit the city prisons and other institutions under its jurisdiction must be obtained. Amongthe prisons, the Tombs (p. 148), and the Jefferson Market prison (p. 172), are the most interesting to vii?it; and of the other institutions, Belle- vue hospital, the Morgue, and the institutions on Black- well's Island. The permit consists of a printed slip with a list of all the institutions under charge of the Depart- ment, but unless the olhcial signing it makes a cross against the insane asylums, the visitor will not be admitted to these. Boats for the various Island institutions which are situated respectively on Blackwell's Island, Ward's Island, Kandall's Island and Hart's Island leave foot of East Twenty-sixth street, in the immediate vicinity of Bellevue Hospital and the Morgue at 10:80 A. M. and 1:30 P. M., Saturdays, Sundays and holidays excepted. Bellevue Hospilal. — Bellevue Hospital being situated near tiie starting point for the various islands at the foot of East Twenty-sixth street, may be visited most con- veniently at the time the trip to the islands is made. The entrance to the hospital is at the foot of East Twenty-sixth street. Patients are admitted upon the recommendation of a regular physician, or in case of accidents and sudden illness at any hour of the day or night. Visitors' hours are from 11 A. M. to 3 P. M. The liospital has a capacity of 700 beds. Patients able to pay ai-e charged $3.50 per week. The institution is managed by a board of physicians, which on the last day of every month assigns from its own members the physi- cians who are to have charge of the various wards for the ensuing month. The grades of junior and senior assist- ants, house physician or surgeon, the term of service being six months, have been adopted, and in the inspec- 260 tioii of tlie wards tho rules of the United States Military Hospital ])revail. The annual cost of the institution to the city is about $100,000. Morgue. — In the Bellevue Hospital j^rounds are the City's Dead-House and Morgue two of the ghastly sights of New York. In the Dead-House the bodies are cleansed and otherwise rendered as sightly as possible before being exposed in the Morgue. In the latter, whicii is a low one-story building, the corpses are laid out in an almost nude state on a row of marble slabs upon which jets of water constantly play. Bodies remaining unclaimed after seventy-two hours are buried in the City Cemetery. Clothes exhibited thirty days, and if not identified, preserved one year. Photographs of the corpse, with the registered number of the grave, also kept. BlackweW s Island. — Blackwell's Island was bought by Van Twiller, a Dutch Colonial Governor, in 1637. He stocked it with cattle. It subsequently passed into the possession of Capt. Manning, who so ignominiously surrendered New York to the Dutch. After having been publicly disgraced he retired to this island, which he subsequently settled upon his daughter Mary, who married Robert Blackwell,f rom whom it derives its name. The most southerly building on Blackwell's Island, a granite structure, formerly the small-pox hospital, is the residence for the female nurses of the Charity Hospital. Next to it is the Laundry, where work is done by women from the Work-House. The two wooden buildings just south of the Hospital are pavilions for epileptics. The Charity Hospital itself is a 4-story granite building ex- tending across tiie island, with a frontage of about 500 feet on each branch of the East river. It has a capacity of 1,143 beds, engages the services of 125 attendants, and the average daily number of patients is 1,000. Last year about 8,000 patients were received here, and 7,303 discharged. There were 504 deaths and 376 births. The most interesting department for visitors is the baby ward on the first floor. Every thing here as in the other wai'ds is spick and span, and every effort is made to kee]) the little ones as liappy as possible. Con- nected with the Hospital is a training-school for fenuile nurses, a library, and rooms for various charitable mis- 261 sions which seek to ameliorate the moral condition of the patients. The medical service of the Hospital is under the charge of a Ciiief of Staff with some 24 house physicians and assistants, who also perform medical service at the other institutions on the island. The house staff of 8 physicians and surgeons reside in the Hospital, and are appointed after a rigorous examination for a term of 18 months. North of the Ciiarity Hospital is the Penitentiary, whicli is also the County prison for women, there being no women in the various State prisons; each county be- ing by law compelled to take care of its own female criminals. This is a granite building, 600 feet long, containing 750 cells arranged in tiei's. The number of prisoners averages about 1,(00 a day, the total for last year being 8,042, of which 896 were women. A card with a record of each prisoner's crime, nan:ie, age, date of conviction and arrival, term of sentence and religion is attached to the outside of the cell. The best time to see the prisoners is at 12 o'clock, when they are at dinner, well guarded and compelled to maintain absolute silence. It is also interesting to watch them at work. They are compelled to follow various trades, such as carpentering and tailoring, and they also do a large amount of stone- cutting, there beins: sevei'al fiuari-ies on the island, the granite for the large buildings having come from them. Tiie convict labor law does not touch the Penitentiary l)ecause all the work here is done for the department itself. There are 50 blacksmiths, 110 shoe-makers and broom-makers and tailors ; about 70 carpenters and ]minters, 2 or 3 upholsterers, 35 tinsmiths and plumbers, 20 clothing-cutters and about 120 stone-cutters. Most of the women are employed in sewing or chamber work in the female prison. Besides this, the Penitentiary fur- nishes all the unskilled labor for the department. The hours of work are from 7 A. M. to 5:80 P. M. in sum- mer and 4:30 P. M. in winter. In the quarry the men are under a heavy guard, and in case of foggy weather they are massed together and surrounded, in order to prevent their escape by the river. They proceed to or from their work by the lock-step. The criminal, on entering the Penitentiary, is first taken to the burbey shop, where he is shaved and has his 262 hair cut, is balliod, weij^lied and measured, has his de- scription noted, is dressed in a striped suit and assigned to work. There are good bathing-houses along the river front which the prisoners may use in summer. Books may l)e taken from the library for two weeks at a time. Prisoners are allowed to receive visitors and write a let- ter once in four weeks. Besides the guards on the island there are guard-boats constantly patrolling the river. North of the Penitentiary is tlie Penitentiary farm and the dwelling of the Superintendent. The quarry is at the head of the Penitentiary grounds. The Alms House is next above these. Attached to it is a hospital for females. The old Blackwell homestead is occupied by the Warden. In mild weather the rows of benches under the shady trees are occupied by poor old men and women. Conspicuous on these grounds is the Protestant Episcopal Chapel of the Good Shepherd, erected in 1888 by George Bliss as a memorial of his wife. In the basement of the chapel is a large reading- room. A Roman Catholic mission is also maintained at the Alms House, and various guilds do good work here. Above the Alms House are the Fire Engine House and the Gas-works. The IVor/v House beyond is rather a dis- agreeable place to visit; its inmates usually belonging to the class known as " drunks," the lowest order of crim- inals — the very scum and refuse of a great city. The total admissions for last year were 22.477, of whom 11,706 were males and 10,771 were fejnales. Be- yond here is the female Insane Asylum. WanVs Island is more attractive looking than Black- well's, but not as interesting to the visitor. It contains some 200 acres, and so much of it as is not occupied by buildings is well laid out. The Department of Public Charities and Correction has charge here of the Male Insane Asylum and a Homeopathic Hospital. The In- sane Asylum is an imposing structure of brick trimmed with gray stone. Invalid soldiers of the civil war who enlisted in city regiments are provided for in a pleasant nome on this island. RandaWs Island, separated from Ward's Island by Little Hell Gate, and divided from the Westchester shore by the Harlem Kills, lies in the mouth of the Hftvlem river. yuO^r the Oomniissioners gf J*wbliQ 263 Cliarities ami Correction are the Idiot Asylum and other institutions ]trovided by the city for destitute children — the Nui'sery, Chihlren's and Infants' hospitals and various schools. Besides these there is on the south- ern end of the island a House of Refuge, a fine building under the care of the Society for the Reformation of Juvenile Delinquents; the buildings and grounds, which are finely laid out, occupying about 30 acres. Children sentenced by police magistrates are brought to this insti- tution whose inmates number about 900. Hart's Island lies between Sand's Point and Pelham Neck on Long Island Sound. Here are a branch Luna- tic Asylum, Hospital, Work-House and City Cemetery (the Potter's Field) where about 2,500 unknown and paupers are annually interred. Here are 75,000 drunk- ards' graves. A soldiers' monument is the only memorial stone in this pathetic piece of ground. CHAPTER XIII. ENVIRONS. The most aUraciive tours in the vicinity of New York are those of the Long Island aiul Jersey Coast resorts, and of the Hudson River. Greenwood Lake (New York and Greenwood Lake R. R.), partly in New York State and partly m New Jersey, and Lake Hopaicong (Del- aware, Lackawanna & Western R. R.) in the Highlands of New Jersey are also w^orth visiting. Tlie Delaware Water Gap, though not properly speaking within the environs of New York, should also be mentioned, as it can be reached (Delaware, Lackawaima & Western R. R. ferries from Christopher and Barclay streets) in about three and a half hours and is one of the grandest [)as- sages of scenery in the United States. Long Island. — Long Island is 115 miles long, averag- ing 12 miles in width. The summer resorts are on the ocean or south shore. A sandy barrier extends some distance out from the main shore nearly the whole length of the island and th.e ocean [)enetrating it through nar- row inlets lias formed several fine bays, the largest of whicli is the Great South Bay. Brooklyn. — Brooklyn, the third largest city in the United States in point of population (over 804,000), and the fourth largest in manufacturing and commercial interests, is on Long Island, opposite New York. To strangers the point of greatest atti-action in Brooklyn is the United States Navy Yard, on the south shore of Wallabout Bay, best reached by elevated railroad from the East River Bridge. The area of the Navy Yard is 144 acres, with a water front of over a mile. The Yard proper, 45 acres, is inclosed by a high wall. Two dry- docks, one 286 feet long bv 35 feet wide at the bottom, and 307 by 98 feet at the top and 36 feet deep, the other 465 feet long by 210 wide, the latter for the docking of the modern war ships of the United States Navy, are ^moiig th(? »u>s^ conspicuous features of the Yard. iJ" _ "r ^ ^rf/'ik, r^ f C *'" ^^.ss«j CINI \jiJ(herfor(// "" V / ■1 ', I ^ ^c..^.l5;.%# X A .""uv" / / ■''--.,, ^ -ItAO* cOArp-^ *V 'V „C.CK« • ^ nr .. J3Wy? 7tf^^/Tfon ^^ 'V' C -« 7, O -M I \ D l\E T C W«"N "U'Oceai <; I B 1 g^ <^SCAC •'Z .^z- t, Gravel JJtll \ M ^ ^^ Ground ,(,4 p f;170*«JW-- '-' ^-^ '^A T L A N T 1 C/-*. P no Brtwk f ;! 70*«)IVJ* Jj>^ L °„", 1 iV Si a/fSmG BRA' yy^ E A T o N T c w N m U/ \ iBrtinT rtll »/ .i s ( (5 VICINITY OF NEW YORK ro,i 265 Perhaps even more interestino: than tliese are the modem war vessels, one or several of whicli are nsiuilly moored here, and also the vessels upon wliich construc- tion is in progress. The United States Nav^l Lyceum, founded in 1883, has besides an extensive library, col- lections of curiosities gathered during cruises in foreign seas, and fine geological and mineralogical cabinets. The 21 well kept acres surrounding the Naval Hospital form a pretty feature of the Yard. Prosjject Park, situated on high ground in the south- western part of Brooklyn, commands a superb view of both the Upper and Lower Bays to the Atlantic Ocean. It is best reached by the Flatbush avenue cars from Ful- ton ferry. An excellent idea of the Park can l)e had by taking the Park carriages (25 cents), which convey the visitor to the highest point of the Park, Lookout Car- riage Concourse, from which a fine view is to be had. The C)cean Parkway, a superb thoroughfare 210 feet wide, leads from Prospect Park to the ocean, six miles distant. At the principal entrance to the Park, the Plaza on Flatbush avenue, is a memorial arch to the soldiers and sailors of the Civil War and a statue of Lincoln. Oreenwood Cemetery, superbly located on a height overlooking New York Harbor, is reached by elevated railroad from the Brooklyn terminus of tiie East River Bridge. Coney Island is the great seaside excursion resort for the populace of New York and Brooklyn and their sub- urbs, though the westerly part of the Island, known as Brighton Beach and ]\tanhattan Beach are more ex- clusive. At West Brighton, where two iron piers extend 1,000 feet into the ocean, affording not only a landing for the boats of the Iron Steamboat Co., but also accom- modations for restaurants, bath houses and promenades, are Cable's. Vanderveer's and the West Brighton liotels, where good, yet comparatively inexpensive accommoda- tions may be had; the Elephant Hotel, built in the form of a mammoth pachyderm; an observatory 300 feet high, commanding a superb view; and untold numbers of small shows of all kinds, eating houses, and resorts of varied character. The Ocean Parkway, from Prospect Park, Brooklyn, ends at tiie more easterly of the two 26G iron piers. The Concourse leads from AVest Brigliton to Brighton Beach, where there is a spacious hotel, witii large dining rooms and piazzas. Beyond it is Manhattan Bea,ch, which, with its adjunct, the Oriental Hotel, forms the most exclusive resort on the Island. Music every day during the season at 2 and 7:30 P. M. Ad- mission 10 cents and 25 cents. Fireworks every night; admission, with reserved seat, 50 cents. Strangers de- siring to see Coney Island under the most favorable cir- cumstances, are advised to stop either at the Manhattan or Oriental, and make detours from there. Rockaway Beach. — Manhattan Beach is connected by a ferry, 10 cents, with Rockaway Beach, another great excursion resort, wiiich a stranger desiring to study the characteristics of the populace will find interesting. It is reached from New York by the Long Island Railroad (Thirty-fourth street ferry), round trip 50 cents, and by steamboats (p. 30). The scene at Rockaway Beach re- sembles that on the popular portion of Coney Island. Lo7ig Beach. — East of Rockaway Beach, 24 miles from New York, is Long Beach, reached by the Long Island Railroad. Thebdch here is one of the best on Long Island, for surf bathing and tiiere are boating, yacht- ing and fishing m Hempstead Bay. The Long Beach Hotel is large and well conducted. A railway leads to Point Lookout at the extreme eastern end of Long Beach, 4}^ miles from the hotel. There are at Point Lookout a good hotel and a numl)er of cottages, Babylon and Fire Island. — Babylon, which lies on the mainland of the Great South Bay, 'affords excellent fish- ing, bathing and boating, and has an excellent hotel in the Argyle. Across the bay from Babylon is Fire Is- land, a long, luirrow strip of sand, reached from Baby- lon by steamer. There are fine surf bathing, and in the bay still water bathing; and excellent blue fishing. The Surf House is a large, well-kept hotel. Jersey Coast.*— Those Jersey Coast resorts which may be properly classed as among the environs of New York — say to Elberon— are reached by the Jersey Southern route (boat from foot Rector street to Sandy *DetHlled accounts of the Jersey Coast resorts from Sandy Hook to Atlantic City and of Lakewood will be found in '* Kobbe's Jersey Coast and Pines." 267 Hook) and by the New York and Long Branch R. R., operated by tlie Central R. R. of New Jersey (ferry from foot of Liberty street to Jersey City) and the Pennsyl- vania R. R. (ferry from foot of Cortlandt street). Of these the Jersey Southern is the most delightful, a fleet of fine steamers, including the two fast, twin-screw steamers Sn?idi/ Hook and JIoDmouth and the St. Johns, which, until the first two named were built, was the fastest boat on the bay, plying between the foot of Rector street and Sandy Hook. The train, after running for a short distance through the woods on Sandy Plook, emerges upon the beach, in full view of the ocean on one side and the Navesink river on the other, so that the railroad trip from the Hook is cool and refreshing. From Highland Beach, the first stop, a bridge crosses the Navesink to the maiidand, the Highlands of Nave- sink, among which Fenimore Cooper laid the scene of his romance, "The Water Witch." Lighthouse Hill is named from the picturesque twin lighthouses, the " Highland Lights." which stand on its small, bare plateau, semi-encircled by thick woods. Navesink Beach, adjoining Highland Beach, consists cf cottages extending to Normandie-by-the-Sea, a first- class hotel (open June 15-October 1), capable of accom- modating 300 guests. It commands a fine view of both ocean and river. Extending from this hotel to Seabright is Eumson Beach (formerly Stokem's), a line of pretty summer cottages. Seabright is one of the gayest resorts on the coast. On the Ruinson Road, not far from the Jumping Point Drawbridge, are the house and grounds of the Seabright Lawn-Tennis and Cricket Clul). On Rumson Neck are some of the finest country residences in the United States. Hot els at Seabright: Octagon, $4; Hotel Shrews- bury, $3.50. A picturesque feature of Seabright is the fishing vilhige ol: Nauvoo. The great charms of Monmouth Beach are its privacy and refinement. The nearest approach to a hotel is the Club House, in which are a few sleeping apartments and a spacious dining-room, the latter for the use of the oc- cupants of some 25 cottages, which are let to friends of the regular cottagers. Thei'e is a Casino, with hall 2G8 and a stage for private theatricals, a bowling-alley and a billiard-room. Long Branch is often spoken of as the " Bi'ighton of America."' It derives its name from the adjacent branch of the Shrewsbury river. It is known to have been in 1734 a camping ground of the Cranberry Indians. In 1753 a conference was held at Crosswicks between the Indians and fonr settlers from Rhode Island to arrange for the purchase by the latter of a portion of the State which now includes Long Bi-anch. After much palaver, it was agreed that they should be allowed to buy as much land as a man could walk around in a day if one of them could throw an Indian champion in a wrestling match. John Slocum, a man of large size and athletic strength, was the white champion. After a long struggle he threw his man. The Long Branch of to-day is a sea-shore cosmopolis. The features which attract the vast summer tiirong to it probably repel as many, if not more, from it, a circum- stance to which the majority of the more rational resorts on the coast doubtless owe their origin. The leading characteristics of Long Branch may be described in one sentence: It supports numerous hotels, clairches and a synagogue; the "tiger" has two sui)erbly appointed jungles, in one of which at least one nuin is known to have left of a single night $25,000 for the voracious animal to paw over and devour; it is •' fashionable' in the sense in which the word is used by those who fondly imagine that lavish display of wealth is evidence of high social position. Yet, as there are islands in a rushing, roaring stream, so there are some spots in Long Branch where the noisy throng have not intruded. Besides many private cot- tages there are the fine hotel, cottages and grounds of Hollywood, near the West End station, a settlement within itself, under one management and including a huge batiiing pavilion shut in by high walls from the gaze of the ignohile vulgns and for the use of the Holly- wood guests only. Another jiavilion is that of the West End Hotel, a first-class establishment. Ocean avenue toward evening is ])robably the liveliest thoroughfare in the United States. Here one can see almost every kind of vehicle — stages crowded with ex- 2G9 cursionists, buggies drawn by swift roadsters, tandems, four-iii-haiids, T-carts, etc., many of them perfectly ap- pointed and each interesting in its own way, as repre- senting one of the many types of people to be found at this resort. A short distance from Long Branch is the Monmouth Park race-track (p. 65). Elberon, a continuation of Long Branch on the south, is one of the most com{)lete and elegant resorts on the Jersey coast, with much the same refined and exclusive characteristics as Monmoutli Beach. The Elberon Casino was incor[)orated in 1882 with a capital of $50,000, and the company also erected the admirable hotel called the Elberon (from $4 upward). Among the handsome residences of this place is the Francklyn cottage, rendered famous as the refuge to which President Gar- field was brought, and where he was lulled into his final sleep by the murmurof thesea. General Grant's former summer home is also at Elberon. Among the resorts south of Elberon are Ashury Park and Ocea/ti Grove, two populous summering ])laces, largely dominated by the Methodist Episcopal Church, camp meetings and other religious exeicises being a feature of life at the "Grove." Seagirt, still further south, is one of the most lefined and delightful resorts on the coast, the Beach House being patronized by a number of refined New York and Philadelphia families. From Long Branch to the south there runs back of the coast a section of New Jersey which is thickly wooded with pines. Lakewood, reached by fast trains of the Central R. R. of New Jersey, foot of Liberty street, is a charming winter I'fesort in this balmy foi'est. (Laurel House and Hotel Lakewood.) ]lui)SOX River. — For natural beauty there is no trip out of New York City comparable with a tour of the Hudson River by steamboat. The boats of the Albany Day Line leave the foot of Vestry street at 8:45 A. M., and foot of West Twenty-second street at 9 A. M., due at Albany at 6 P. M. Boats of this line leave Albany in tiie morning, and it is possible to take the morning boat from New York to West Point, which may properly be considered tiie extreme northern limit of the environs of New York as covered by this book, and return by a boat 970 of tho sanio line in tlie afternoon. Round trip, $1. Other boats by which tlie trip up tlie Hudson can be made, but without tlie facility for returning? to New York the same day, are: Mary Powell, considered the swiftest steamboat in the world, entering the High- lands on the trip up the river about sunset, when the scene along this beautiful stretch of the Hudson is most inspiring. The Albany night boats leave foot of Canal street at 6 P. M., and the Troy night boats foot of Chris- tojjher at 6 P. M., both arriving at their destinations at 6 o'clock the next morning; fare $3, exclusive of meals. (See, also, p. 30). Railroads which afford glimpses of the most beautiful points on the river are the New York Centi'al and Hud- son River R. R, along the east bank to Albany, and the New York, West Shore and Buffalo R. R. on the west shoi-e to Albany (p 26). The Trip by Steamboat. — Before the end of the Island of Manhattan is reached, the Palisades rise in sheer ascent to a height of 300 feet from the river's west bank, forming a columnar trap-rock preci|)ice of unique grandeur 20 miles in length. The old Revolutionary fortification. Fort Lee, was on the brow of the Palisades at a point about opposite the present Fort Washington, (One Hundred and Eighty-first to One Hundred and Eighty-fifth streets) where the Revolutionary fort of that name stood. There are large excursion grounds at Fort Lee. Spuyten Duyvil Creek comes into the river at the end of the Island of Manhattan. Fifteen miles from New York, on the east shore, lies 3It. St. Vincent, the site of the convent in charge of the Ladies of the Sacred Heart. Two miles further up the river, on the same shore, is the city of Yoiikers, and five miles beyond this, Dobbs' Ferry. At Piermont, twenty-two miles up the western shore, the river widens out and assumes a lake-like appearance, and is locally known as Tappan Zee, a reach of ten miles by four miles at its widest point. Washington had his headquarters at Tappan, about three miles southwest of Piermont, and here Major Andre was imprisoned and executed October 2, 1780. The headquai'ters still stands, and the site where Andre's execution took place is also pointed out. On the east shore of Tappan Zee, four miles above Dobbs' Ferry, is 271 Iri'inr/fon, where Washington Irving resided in his pretty- cottage, Sunnyside, which, though near the shore, can- not be seen from the river, because of the sheltering trees and siirnbhery. The next settlement on tiie east shore is Tarrytown, which overlooks Tappan Zee at its widest point. All this region has been invested with a romantic interest by Irving's sketches. Irving's house at Irvington is the original of Wolferfs Roost. Tiie valley of Sleepy Hollow lies along the course of Mill river, but a little way north of Tarrytown, and over the stream the traveler can still cross by the stone bridge made famous by Irving in his sketch of Ichabod Crane. Near the old Dutch Church in this valley, which is the oldest religious structure in this State (1699) is the spot where Andre was captured by three American minule-men while on his way to the British lines just after he had concluded the negotiation for the treason of Benedict Arnold. Opposite Tarrytown is the pretty su- burban and summer residence place, Nyack. Just above is High Torn, a grand old headland, and near it Rockland Lake, wliich cannot, however, be seen from the river. About opposite Rockland Lake is Sing Sing, where one of the New York State prisons is situated, the great buildings having been constructed of marble and lime- stone from local quarries. Above Sing Sing is a promi- nent headland known as Croton Point, the Croton river here entering the Hudson (p. 11). At the foot of the northern slope of the Dunderberg on the west shore is Haverstraiv. Here in a house then belonging to Joshua Hett Smith and still standing. Arnold and Andre met to arrange finally for the surrender of West Point, and it was after crossing the river from here that Andre was captured. The widening of the river is known as Hav- erstraw Bay, and as the boat enters this, the Highlands are seen in the distance above. Stony Point, on the western shore, at the northern end of Haverstraw Bay, is a rocky promontory marked by a light-house, and was, in the Revolution, the site of a fort captured by the British June 1, 1779, re-captured at the point of the bayonet in a brilliant charge up the declivity lead by Mad Anthony Wayne, midnight of July 15th, 1779, and abandoned for lack of the necessary force to hola it. PeekslxiJl, on the east Ijaidv, not far above Stony Point, 272 is the site of tlie State Militia Camp, which is located oil what is known as Anthony's Nose, a short distance above the town. In the river-bed, near CahhveWs Land- ing, at the foot of Dunderberg Mountain, opposite Peekskill, Captain Kidd is supposed to have buried part of his treasure, and search for it has been made from time to time — once by a regularly organized company with extensive apparatus. Dunderberg Mountain,on the west shore, and Anthony's Nose, on the east, form the southern gates of the "Highlands, the most beautiful passage of the river. Tiie little island lying near the entrance is lona Island, a picnic ground. Just above Anthony's Nose is Sugar Loaf Jlountain, (865 feet), so called from its peculiar shape. It was while breakfast- ing with Col. Beverly Robinson in a house still stand- ing at the foot of Sugar Loaf Mountain that Arnold re- ceived the news of Andre's arrest, and fled to the Vul- ture, a British vessel anchored down the river. At Buf- termilk Falls, on tie west bank, a series of cascades coming down from an elevation of 100 feet into the river, is Cranston's Hotel, and but a short distance above it, West Point. Opposite West Point is Garrisons. Those who desire to continue the trip through the Highlands to Newhurgh will find on the westbjink the superb head- land of Crow Nest (1,428 feet) where J. Rodman Drake laid the scene of his "Culprit Fay, "and above it the Storm Ki7ig {1,629 feet). Cold Spring, above Garrisons, rests upon the slope of Mount Taurus. Nestling on the northern sloi)e of the Storm King is the pi-etty village of Cormvall. Between it and Newburgh is A^eiv Wiridsor, and opposite Newburgh FishMll Landing. Neivhurgli is not as interesting a place for a sojourn as West Point, but the visitor can while away an hour at Washington's headquarters, the old stone mansion south of the town built in 1750, where, June 23, 1783, the Revolutionary, army was disbanded. The State, which owns the house, has gathered in it a collection of Revolutionary relics. The grounds about the house command a view of the superb entrance to the Flighlands. \Vest Point.— At West Point is the United States Mil- itary Academy, wdiose buildings stand upon a beautiful plateau at tlie foot of Crow Nest, 157 feet above the river. The road leading from the landing is cut out of 873 the cliff of solid rock. Among the buildings are the Cadets' Barracks, the Academic Building, both of stone, the latter containing class-rooms, laboratories and gym- nasiums; the Mess Hall, the Chapel, and the Museum of Ordnance and Trophies. The low building on the terrace below the library is the Riding Hall. Beautiful views of the river are commanded from West Point, more especially, however, from Trophy Point to the north, which derives its name from the captured cannon to be seen there. Here is also a portion of the chain which the Americans stretched across the Hudson in 1778 to prevent the passage of British vessels up the river. At Fort Clinton, on the northeast angle of the plateau, is a monuuient to Koscuisko, which the cadets erected 1828. Flirtation Walk, where every cadet is supposed to lose his heart more or less frequently, is a path along the bank of the river sheltered from view by trees and shrubbery. On the parade ground is a bronze statue of Major-General Sedgwick, killed at the battle of Spottsylvania, May 9, 1864, and an obelisk to Lieut. - Col. Wood, who was killed at the head of a sortie from Fort Ei'ie, Canada, in 1814. In the cemetery are, among other notable monuments, the Cadets' Monument, a castellated column surmounted by an urn aud trophy, atul a massive sarcophagus beneath wliich rest the re- mjiinsof Gen. Winfield Scott. The best time to visit West Point is during June, July and August, but more especially at the time when the exercises and drills pre- paratory to graduation are taking place. These usually occur in June. Near West Point, 600 feet above the river, on Mount Independence, are the ruins of the Rev- olutionary Fort Putnam, from winch a superb view is had. The West Point Hotel ($4.0U a day) is at the north of the plateau and Cranston's Hotel ($4.00 a day) the accommodations of which are unexceptionable, is near enough to enable its guests to enjoy all the varied sights of West Point. Staten Island*. — Sailors' Smcg Harbor: This is an institution with an annual income of about $100,000, situated on the north shore of Staten Island. It is reached by ferry from foot of Whitehall street to St. *For description of Staten Island, see "Kobbe's Staten Island." 274 George and tlienee by train to Sailors' Snug' Harbor sta- tion. (Karc 10 cents; time 80 niin. from New York.) To the JIarbor sailors of every nationality are admitted, the only requirement for admission being that tliey have had a five years' sea service under tiie Siars and Stripes, and are incapable of self-support. Here are blind sailors, lame sailors, sailors without legs, sailors without arms, and sailors physically and mentally sound, but perhaps too old to stand the exposure of a mariner's life. They have everything they need, including tobacco, and one of the forms of punishment is to deprive Jack of iiis pipe. On all secular days the visitor is welcomed and inmates of the institution are very gUul to act as guides, for an optional tee. through the grounds and buildings. Glen Island. — A popular excursion ground in Long Island Sound, near New Rochelle. Reached by steam- boats making many trips daily. See advertisements in newspapers. iisrr)^:x. With the Nearest Elevated Eaiboad Stations to the Principal Points of Interest. PAGE Academy of Design— 23cl street— All lines 174 Academy of Music 167 Albany Day Line— Desbrosses— 9th ave.; Grand bt.- 6th a v. 30 American Antiquities 225 American Museum of Natural History— 81st street- 6th ave. 231 Anchor Line Steamers— Houston— 9th ave 24 Ancient Sculpture 204. 209 Annexed District 12. 252 Apprentices' Library 168 Approaches by Water 16 Aquatics 66 Architectural Cas' s 204 Aqueducts 12 Armory, 7ih Refft.-67th St.— 3d ave.; 65th st. -2d ave 251 Army Building?, U. S 79 Asbury Park 269 Assay Office, U. S 107 Astoria Ferry— 92d stieet— 2d avenue ; 89th street— 3d ave.. 32 A stor Estate 181 Astor Library— 8th street— 6th avenue; 9th street— 3d ave.. 155 Athletics 64 Audubon Park 256 Bagf^age Inspection 29 Bank of New York 112 Bankers 49 Banks 49 Bartholdi Statue— South Ferry— All lines 69 Barge Office— South Ferry— All lines 76 Base-ball 65 Baths 46 Battery, The— South Ferry— All lines 76 Baxter street 143 Bay Riige Ferry— South Ferry— All lines 3i Bedloe's Island— (see Bartholdi Statue.) Bellevue Hospital 259 " Bend," The— Chatham Square— 3d ave 143 Benevolent Societies 61 Bible House— Ninth street— 3d ave 158 Bicycling 66 Billiards 43 Blackweirs Island 260 Bleecker Street Bank for Savings 154 Bloomingdale Insane Asylum -116th street --6th nve 254 Board of Education —Grand street— 3d and Gth aves 150 Boarc^ of Ji^^ltii— Houston ?tree wa ave ..... m 153 276 Boreel Building 116 Bowery— Houston , Grand, Chatham Square— 3d ave 144 Bowling Green— South Ferry— All lines 84 Brentano's -Fourteenth street— Gth and 3d aves 1(36 Broad street 109 Broadway 14 Broadway— No. 1— Battery Place— 6tti & 9th aves 85 Washington at 86 " '* Benedict Arnold at 86 Putnam at 86 BrooJklyn 18, 2(>4 Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall -2d and Sd aves 138 Bryant Park 183 BremeuLine- (seeHobokeuaiidChrij.t()pherStreet Ferries),23, 25 Cab and Coach Fares 34 Cable Rates 53 Calumet Clul) 180 Canal Street 148, 150 Castle Garden— South Ferry All lines 77 Catharine Street Ferrv ( 'hathain Square— 2d and 3(1 aves. . 32 Cathedral— Pr()tt'^f/i 13a Swamp, The 141 Tammany Hall 167 Telegraph Rates 53 Telephone 52 Temple Emanu-El 185 Tennis 66 Theatres 44 Times 1 32 Tombs, the 148 Topography 11 Tribune 132 Trinity Cemetery 255, 257 Trinity Church— Rector street— 6th and 9th aves ^8 rurf 65 Twenty-third Street Ferry— 23d street— All lines 32 Jnion Club- Twenty-third street— 6th and 3d aves 173 LJnlon League Club 182 LFnion Square— Fourteenth street— All lines 166 University Club 180 University Building 169 Jniversity of the City of New York 169 k^aaderbilt Clinic 200 V^'anderbillt, " Commodore,' Biography of 198 Vanderbilt Houses 195 Vanderbilt Picture Gallery 197 Variety Performances 45 Wall street— Rector St. , West side ; Hanover Sq., East side. 97 Ferry— Hanover Square— 2d and 3d aves 32 Ward's Island 267 Wasliiugton Ai-ch 171 Washington at St. Paul's Chapel 127 Washington's Inauguration 102 Washington Market 123 Washington Square— Eighth street— 6tli ave 169 Washington Relics— (see Met. Mus. of Art and Lenox Lib.) Washington Statue at U. S. Sub-Treasury 103 on Union Square 166 Washington, Trumbull's Portrait of 134 other Portraits of (see Lenox Library), Water Front ' 15 Waxworks 45 ' — >,- ■'4- ^^^ ^ 4/r ^~ • - < PAGE Weehawken Ferry— Forty-second street— All lines 33 West Point \ 272 Western Union Building 119 West Sli( »re R.R.— Forty-second street— All lines 28 Will.'fs I'oint 18 ^\■illiamsl)urff Ferry— Grand street— 2d and 3d aves 32 White stiir Line— Christopher street— 9th ave 24 1JV//A/ I'.uiidinf? 132 W orth, Ma.ior-General. Montiment to 1T& Yountr Men's Christian Association 174 Young' Women's Christian Association 167 -^2l}?^n? Eleetrotypcil and Priuteil l)y De Letniw & Oppeuhehnt^r, N. Y