.■«•■"=- .«• o ^^>^ -. - - -^ .0 i^ v^'' o »:•"' " °^ »?-■*, • iV' %41# Digi igitized by the InfernetAVchiVe ^^ in 2010 with funding from * *^ The^Library of Congress V http://www.archive.org/details/notesoncentralam01 squi i^:' 'hV' ' * . s ' yv ^ ^°"-^. - -^^^^ •* ^ ti» -<>«, .^ "^bv^ :.^^'^ ^-^0^ f'^^M: ^ov^ ■^^ yj;^^ > » ^s^'vV^tV^^* . v-? -^^ . Z-r ^ V /\. \^.° /% ^^ '» . . r-fy '7 c^ NOTES ON CENTRAL AMERICA PARTICULARLY THE STATES OP HONDURAS AND SAN SALVADOR: THEIR GEOGRAPHY, TOPOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, POPULATION. RESOURCES, PRODUCTIONS, etc., etc., AND THE PROPOSED HONDURAS INTER-OCEANIC RAILWAY. BY E.^G.'SQUIER, FORMERLY CHARGE D'AFFAIRES OF THE UNITED STATES TO THE REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. s-r/r/ ©rfflfnal JiSaps anU Sllusttatfons. NEW YORK: HARPER ^ ~ W /J FREE PORTofAMAPALA {87'.'34'30"W Scale of Sea^Miles I 1 <, m t y /, 4 ■' , / . \ \ '^ 5 \ ' : ^\ ;' , . . \ ^", ' , " » ^\ • , . X t i^i Chap. VI.] bat of fonseca. 93 een miles wide, between tlie great volcanoes of Concha- gua (3800 feet in height) and Coseguina (3000 feet in height), which stand like giant warders upon either hand, and constitute unmistakable landmarks for the mariner. On a line across this entrance, and about equidistant from each other, lie the two considerable islands of Conchaguita and Mianguera, and a collection of high rocks called "los Farellones," which, while they serve to protect the bay from the swell of the sea, di- vide the entrance into four distinct channels, each of sufficient depth of water to admit the passage of the largest vessels. These islands are high ; Conchaguita being not less than 1500, and Mianguera about 1200 feet in height. They were formerly inhabited by In- dians, who withdrew to the main land to avoid the oppressions of the freebooters during the period of their ascendency in the South Sea. Both of these islands belong to San Salva'dor. The three states of San Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua touch upon this bay. Honduras has, how- ever, much the largest frontage. The port of La Union, on the subordinate bay of the same name, is the prin- cipal Pacific port of San Salvador. Nicaragua has also a nominal port on the "Estero Real," an estuary of the bay, which penetrates that state in the direction of the Lake of Managua. Hondm^as has the free port of Amapala on the island of TigTC, which occupies a commanding position nearly in the centre of the bay. The subordinate bay of La Union, from the island of Punta Sacate to its head, is about eight miles in length by four in breadth. Its northern half, however, is shallow, and almost dry at low water, and it is said that the anchorage is yearly becoming narrower from the sand washed down by the rivers Goascoran and Si- 94 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VI. rama, both of which flow into it. There are also two other subordinate bays, viz., that of Chismuyo, to the northward of the large island of Sacate Grande, and which receives the Rio Nacaome, and that of San Lo- renzo, a fine body of water to the eastward of the same island. At the head of this bay is situated the nom- inal 23ort of San Lorenzo, which is only a dependency of that of Amaj)ala. The principal estuary of the bay is that called "El Estero Real," which extends into Nicaragua behind the volcano pf El Yiejo. It starts from the extreme southern point of the bay, and pene- trates inland for a distance, including its windings, of not far from fifty miles. It has an average width of two hundred yards, and, for at least thirty miles from its mouth, a depth of not less than three fathoms. Sir Edward Belcher went up this estero in 1838, in the " Starling," a vessel drawing ten feet of water, for thir- ty miles. In his own language, he "might easily have gone farther, had the wind permitted." This estero extends to within twenty or twenty-five miles of Lake Managua, from which it is separated by the plain of Conejo.* The principal islands in the Bay of Fonseca are Sa- cate Grande, Tigre, Gueguensi, and Esposescion, be- longing to Honduras, and Punta Sacate, Martin Perez, Conchaguita, and Mianguera (already described), be- longing to San Salvador. Sacate Grande is considerably the largest, and, in common with the others, is of volcanic origin. It is seven miles long by about four in breadth. The south- ern half is elevated, rising in a number of peaks to the * I have elsewhere indicated this line as the most feasible route for a ship canal, via the River San Juan and Lakes Nicaragua and Managua. See Part IIL of '' Nicaragua, its People, Scenery, Monuments, and proposed Inter-oceanic Canal.'' Chap. YL] bay of fonseca. 95 height of two thousand feet. These elevations slope oiF gently to the northward, and subside finally in level al- luvial grounds of exceeding fertility. These, as well as the slopes descending toward them, are densely wooded with cedar, mahogany, willowisti, and other valuable trees. The peaks themselves, as well as their more ab- rupt southern sIojdcs, are covered Avith grass, called by the Indians sacate, whence the island derives its name. These grassy slopes afford pasturage for great numbers of cattle, and it is said that as many as four thousand have been pastured upon the island at a single time. For most of the year, and except in very dry seasons, there are running streams of water on the northern slopes of the island. Abundance of water, however, may be obtained by digging through the upper lava crusts, beneath which, as is frequently the case in vol- canic countries, flow constant streams. The grassy peaks of Sacate Grande, as well as of the other islands, afford a source of ever-varying and eternal beauty. With the commencement of the rainy season, they are clothed with the delicate translucent green of the spring- ing grass, which deepens as the season advances both in color and thickness, until all the asperities of the ground are matted over with an emerald robe of luxu- riance. Then, when the rains cease and the droughts commence, the grass becomes sere, and finally of a brill- iant yellow, and the islands appear as if swathed in a mantle of golden grain, which Ceres herself might envy. Then comes the torch of the vaqiiero, and the sky is lurid Avlth the blaze of the rajDid flame, which clears the ground for the future fresh and tender blade, but leaves it browned and pur2:)led, in sober contrast with its previous gayer garniture of gold and green. The island of Gueguensi may be regarded as a de- 96 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP.VI. pendency of Sacate Grande, from which it is separated only by a narrow and shallow strait. It has a single eminence of great beauty and regularity. The rest of the island is level, chiefly savanna, fertile, and well adapted to the cultivation of rice, cotton, and sugar. It is fringed by a narrow belt of mangroves, which would lead the careless observer to suppose the ground within to be low and swampy. The island of Tigre, from its position, is the most important island of the bay. It is perhaps twenty miles in circumference, rising in the form of a perfect cone to the height of two thousand five hundred feet. The slope from the water, for some distance inward, is very gentle, and admits of cultivation. Upon the southern and eastern shores, the lava forms black, rocky barriers to the waves, varying in height from ten to eighty feet; but upon the northward and eastward there are a number of "playas" or coves, with smooth, sandy beaches. It is facing one of the most consider- able of these that the port of Amapala is situated. The water in front is deep, with clear anchorage, where vessels of ordinary size may lie within a cable's length of the shore. This island was a favorite resort of the pirates, and it was here that Drake had his depot during his opera- tions in the South Sea. At that time, in common with Sacate Grande, and the other principal islands in the bay, it had several considerable towns of Indians, who, however, soon afterward retired to the main land to avoid their piratical persecutors. From that time it remained almost entirely uninhabited until about 1838, when some enterprising merchants, under the sug- gestions of Don Carlos Dardano, a Sardinian trader, conceived the idea of making it a free port. They ac- Tb Is separated .Q'aio. it 13 as a singlfi ■u. :^; .. i.a regularity. The rest of chF^fiy sfvanna, fertile, and' ^f^'^Il cotton, aiwi ^.M'i'ow ioeii ;:'igroves, wliicLi iosr '^llfJt-. ;;.ci i'.;...-;'i vi a pi-'-T-ct •■ r'r: ■:: . . • that tha:' rely unmli mtil al-ui ■ •liter prising inerciiatits, ui-' ^'^U'^- r— > ^ ,^m ' ft )>$t H o \s; Chap. YI.] bay of fonseca, 97 cordingly obtained the requisite action from the gov- ernment of Hondm'as, and the free port of Amapala was accordingly established. Since then it has raj)id- ly increased in population, and is now by far the most important point in the Gulf, and undoubtedly destined to become the most important port in the Pacific be- tween San Francisco and Valparaiso. It has a salubri- ous climate, resulting from its admirable ventilation, the proximity of high grounds, and absence of swamps. The markets of three states are accessible from it, and it may be reached from the sea much more easily than any other point in the bay, while the largest vessels of the line may lie in perfect security in its waters. The actual j^opulation may be estimated at about one thou- sand. It contains scA'eral large wholesale mercantile establishments, with the requisite warehouses, and a number of substantial and commodious dwellings. A direct trade is carried on between Amapala and Brem- en, Liverpool, Marseilles, Genoa, New York, and Val- paraiso. No data exist for determining its extent or value. The exports are indigo, hides, tobacco, bullion, silver and copper ores, and Brazil-wood, together with maize to ports on the coast. The cultivation of sugar has been introduced on the main land, with a view of supplying the Californian market. Lying in front of the port of Amapala, to the north- west of the island of Tigre, is the island of Esposes- cion. It is high, with a large "playa" on its southern side, but is deficient in water. This, however, might be sujDplied to every necessary extent by Avells of the requisite capacity. The same remarks hold good in respect to the considerable island of Punta Sacate. The little island of Martin Perez is comparatively low and level, and has a rich, productive soil. It retains G 98 REPUBLIC OP HONDURAS. [ChAP. VI. its verdure during most of the year, and is green when the other islands are sere and yellow from the drought. The remaining islands, of which there are many, may be described as volcanic domes, supporting only enough soil to nourish the grasses which disguise the rough and blistered rocks of which they are composed. The bay abounds in fish, and its shores swarm with every variety of water-fowl — cranes, herons, pelicans, ibises, spoonbills, ducks, curlews, darters, etc., etc. Large beds of oysters are found in the shallow waters in the dependent bays of La Union and Chismuyo. Their quantity seems to be inexhaustible. Huge piles of their shells are scattered along the shores of the islands and main land, showing how extensively they were used by the aborigines. They are about the size of the ordinary oysters found around New York, and of excellent flavor. Crabs and cray-fish are also abund- ant. The whole region around this bay is eminently pro- ductive, and capable of furnishing suj)plies of every kind to every desirable extent. The lands on the banks of the Choluteca, Nacaome, and Goascoran are of the highest fertility, and adapted to the production of every tropical commodity. The savannas back of these comparatively low grounds are peculiarly fitted for grazing, while wheat, potatoes, and other products of the temperate zone may be cultivated on the slopes of the mountains and the plateaus of the interior. Wood of value for purposes of export or for the con- struction of dwellings and ships, including pine, exists in exhaustless quantities on the very shores of the bay, or may be rafted down the rivers from the interior. These rivers also aiford facilities for navigation by small boats for considerable distances inland, to points Chap. VI.] bay of fonseca. 99 near the metal-bearing spurs or outliers of the Cordil- leras. The silver and gold mining district of Tabanco, in the Department of San Miguel (San Salvador), the silver mines of Aramacina and San Martjm, and the famous mine of Corpus, all lie within from ten to twenty miles of this bay. Limestone is found in large beds on the navigable waters of the estero of Cubu- lero, and a fine rose-colored sandstone abounds in the vicinity of the town of Nacaome, on the banks of the river of the same name. This bay must also ultimately become the depot of the coal from the great beds which exist in the valley of the River Lempa, when these shall come to be worked for supj)lying the Pacific steamers. It is alleged that coal is to be found both on the Rio Sirama and Choluteca, but the reports re- main to be verified. As afibrding admirable ports, abundant means for ship-building and repairs, with supplies of every kind, not less than for its value in respect to existing and lo- cal commerce with San Salvador, Honduras, and Nic- aragua, the Bay of Fonseca has a singular value and commercial importance. But our estimate of that im- portance becomes greatly enhanced when we consider its commanding position, both in a political and geograph- ical point of view, and especially ^vdien we regard it, as it is inevitably destined to become, as the terminus on the Pacific of the most available route of permanent railway communication between the two great oceans. I have no hesitation in repeating now, what I had oc- casion to say to the government of the United States when acting as its representative in Central America, that "the Bay of Fonseca is, under every point of view, by far the most important position on the Pacific coast of America, and so favored by Nature as ultimately to 100 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VI. become the great emporium of trade, and centre of en- terprise upon that side of the continent." This was ■written before the fact of a feasible interoceanic rail- way route through Honduras, terminating on this bay, had been demonstrated or even conceived. The principal ports of Honduras, on the Atlantic, are Omoa, Puerto Caballos, and Truxillo ; and on the Pacific, Amaj)ala, or the island of Tigre. Puerto Caballos. — The first port established by tbe Spaniards on the northern coast was Puerto Caballos, lat. 15° W N., and Ion. 87° 57' W. It was selected by Cortez in his expedition into Honduras, and he founded a settlement there, with the purpose of making it the grand entrejJOt of New Spain, which he called Natividad. For more than two centuries it was the principal establishment on the coast, but it was re- moved to Omoa, a few miles to the westward, during the time of the buccaneers, because of the large size of the bay, which could only be adequately defended by the construction of several forts, while a single work was sufficient for the protection of the comparatively small port of Omoa. The port, or rather bay, is of large capacity, being not less than nine miles in circumference. Its depth is ample, ranging, for more than two thirds of its area, from four to twelve fathoms, with secure holding- ground. Toward its northern shore the depth of water is greatest ; and by the construction of docks sixty feet in length, the largest ocean steamers may enter, and re- ceive and land passengers and cargo, more easily than in the docks of New York, inasmuch as, in this portion of the Bay of Honduras, the rise and fall of the tide is almost imperceptible. Connected with the port or bay is a large salt-water Chap. VI.] Puerto caballos — omoa. 101 lagoon, upward of two miles in length, by about a mile and a quarter broad, of equal depth of water mth the port- itself. The winds which prevail on the north coast of Hon- duras are from the northeast, north, and north by west, from all of which the port is perfectly protected. West and southwest winds are scarcely known, and are fur- thermore entirely cut off from the port by the high hills and mountains skirting the coast in that direction. Omoa. — The port of Omoa is in lat. 15° 47' N., long. 88° 3^ W. It is small but secure, and defended by a strong work, called "El Castillo de San Fernando." The anchorage is good, in from two to six fathoms. The to^\Ti is situated about a fourth of a mile back from the shore, and numbers fifteen hundred or two thousand inhabitants. The site of the town is level, but the coun- try back rises rapidly into a chain of high mountains, which, commencing abruptly at Puerto Caballos, trend off to the westward, and connect with the Sierra Madre in the Department of Gracias. Very little agriculture, therefore, is carried on in the vicinity of Omoa, which draws its supplies chiefly from the Indians settled around Puerto Caballos, and from the vicinity of Che- loma and San Pedro, in the j^lain of Sula. It is through Omoa that the merchants of Gracias, Sta. Barbara, Co- mayagua, and Tegucigalpa obtain their j^rincipal sup- plies of merchandise, and most of them have agencies at the port. Goods landed here, nevertheless, some- times find their way across the continent into San Sal- vador and Guatemala. It is from this port, also, that most of the exports of the departments which I have indicated are made. They consist of bullion, mahog- any, hides, tobacco, indigo, sarsaj^arilla, etc. ; but the amounts of these articles which pass here, in the ab- 102 REPUBLIC OP HONDURAS. [ChAP. VI. sence of published data, are unknown. A large num- ber of cattle are shipped annually to supply the mar- kets and the mahogany establishments around Belize with provisions and with oxen for trucking the mahog- any.* Omoa, from its position, receives the full ventilation afforded by the trade winds, and its climate in general is cool and salubrious. It has seldom been visited by those epidemics which so often desolate the islands of the Caribbean and the Mexican ports on the Gulf of Mexico. This exemption is no doubt due, in a great degree, to the proximity of the mountains, and the ab- sence of marshes in its vicinity. Omoa receives an abundant supply offish, turtle, and wild fowl from the cays off the coast and the waters in its neighborhood. Truxillo. — This ancient port is situated in lat. 15° 55^ IST., long. 86° W., upon the western shore of a no- ble bay, formed by the projecting land of Punta Cas- tilla. Young estimated the population in 1842 at two thousand five hundred, of which one thousand were whites and Ladinos, and fifteen hundred Caribs. The latter are described as tall, athletic, hardy, and indus- trious. The trade of the place is chiefly carried on * " The harbor of Omoa is formed by a little bay, with a low sandy point stretch- ing out about half a mile to the north, covered with mangrove-trees and bushes, which make a good shelter from the northern gales. The fort, or castle, stands at the head of the bay, near which is the best anchorage, in from four to sixteen fath- oms of water. As you approach the shore it shallows, and you may choose your own depth, say from sixteen to four fathoms, soft, muddy bottom, and good hold- ing-ground. In fine, it is a snug, safe harbor. The castle is large, and, like most other of the fortifications built by the Spaniards, very strong. When this province was under Spain, its convicts' were imprisoned in this castle. The town is located about a mile to the eastward of the landing-place at the castle. It is now a small place, containing about two hundred indifferent houses. The people of Omoa gen- erally are a simple-hearted, honest people, and wish to do justice and deal fairly with all foreigners who visit their place." — CoggeshaWs Voyages, ^d Series, p. 142 (1852). CpIAP. VI.] PORT OF TRUXILLO. 103 Avith Olancho, of which department it may be consid- ered as the port. Its exports, in common with those of Omoa, are hides, sarsaparilla, cochineal, indigo, cop- per, and silver. The subjoined description of Truxillo is extracted from the Narrative of G. W. Montgomery, Esq., United States Commissioner to Central America, who visited it in the year 1838:* " The town of Truxillo stands close Iby the sea, at the foot of a lofty mountain crowned with trees, and clothed with rich vegetation, reaching to the very edge of the water. It is an isolated, solitary place, of antique appearance, with a few houses, and these in ruinous condition. * * In former times, Trux- illo was a place of some importance, both in a mihtary and commercial point of view. It contained a considerable garrison, and the ruins of extensive barracks may yet be seen there. It carried on a flourishing trade with the metropolis, the manufac- tures of which Avere exchanged for the products of the country. Of these products the principal are mahogany, cedar, and other woods, sarsaparilla, hides, and tallow. There are also some mines of gold in the neighborhood, which, under proper man- agement, might be worked mth a profit. This place, however, has long been on the decline, and its prosperity is not hkely to return in many years. Its population, which now does not much exceed a thousand souls, was formerly twice or three times that number. "The principal street — and, strictly speaking, the only one, for the others scarcely deserve the name — extends from one end of the town to the other, and is paved. The houses, for the most part, are but one storj high, and their sombre, dilapidated ap- pearance, together with the grass-grown pavement, impart to the place a melancholy air of abandonment. It has, at the same time, something romantic in its situation, being inclosed by mountains, and imbosomed in an exuberant vegetation, which the efforts of man seem to have been unable to check. * Narrative of a Journey to Guatemala, etc., in 1838, by G. W. Montgomery. New York, 1839, p. 31. 104 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VI. "There is scarcely any open ground in the vicinity, except here and there a cultivated spot, where the plantain, the yucca, and a little corn are raised for individual consumption. As the woods afford a rich pasture, the cattle are good, and milk is abundant ; and as the soil, hy its fertility, liberally repays the little labor bestowed on it, the very moderate wants of the in- habitants are easily supplied. " During my stay in Truxillo, I took a ramble in the woods, accompanied by the captain of the vessel. There is a brook in the neighborhood of the town which pursues a winding course through the woods and among the rocks until it falls into the sea. We resolved to explore its banks as far as circumstances might permit. We set out accordingly, each of us armed with a stout stick, in the apprehension of encountering snakes. In- deed, so exaggerated were the accounts I had received of the number of these reptiles infesting the woods, that I had con- ceived it impossible to move a step without danger of being at- tacked by them. As we proceeded in our excursion, I was agreeably surprised by the beauty of the scenery. The size and loftiness of the trees, some of them in blossom, and the deep ver- dure of their foliage, surpassed any thing I had ever seen of the kind. There was the tamarind-tree, the wild lemon, loaded with fruit, and the sassafras. There, too, was the mahogany-tree, which, like the sassafras, furnishes a staple commodity of the country, and a variety of other trees, with whose properties and names we were wholly unacquainted. There was a vast num- ber of plants, also, that seemed to me curious, and well worth the attention of a botanist. Parrots, pelicans, and other birds of brilliant plumage, were flying all around us ; there were sing- ing-birds among the trees, while in the limpid waters of the brook might be seen, now and then, the silvery sides of a fish glistening in the sun as it darted across the stream. The brook sometimes rushed and foamed noisily among groups of rocks or through narrow passes, and at other times glided peacefully on, with an almost imperceptible current. At one place a little bay was formed, deep and cool, where the smooth and placid surface of the water, which was beautifully transparent, reflected, as in a mirror, the overhanging trees. It was impossible not to be Chap, VI.] northern ports. 105 afFected by the solitude and beauty of the scene ; the chaiTO was felt and acknowledged by my companion as well as myself. A pleasant breeze, blowing at the time, effectually prevented our being annoyed by mosquitoes ; and, singular as it seemed to me, we met wth no snake, nor any dangerous animal in our path." Puerto Sal is a small harbor a few miles to the east- ward of Puerto Caballos. The depth of water is not sufficient for large vessels. Some high rocks lie to the noi-thward of the point which shuts in the harbor, called the "Bishops," under the lee of which there is a very good anchorage. Triunfo de la Cruz is a large bay, which commences at Puerto Sal, and bends thence inward, forming a coast-line of upward of twenty miles, terminating in a cape called Cabo Triunfo. It is very well sheltered from the winds, and has good anchorage for ships of every denomination. Besides these harbors, there are many points on the north coast of Honduras where vessels may anchor under favorable circumstances. At the mouths of the Chamelicon, the Ulua, Lean, Black Eiver, Patook River, and off Carataska Lagoon, there are roadsteads, with good holding-ground, which are secure, except during the prevalence of north winds. The islands of Poatan and Guanaja both afford ex- cellent harbors, and there is also a good port on the south side of Utilla. The references had elsewhere to these islands preclude the necessity of any special ref- erence to then- ports. It is only necessary to say that these islands are surrounded by coral reefs and cays, which render approach to them difficult except under the direction of experienced pilots. Amapala is a free port, situated on the island of 106 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VI. Tigre, in the Gulf of Fonseca, and is the principal, and, in fact, the only port of Honduras on the Pacific. The nominal port of La Paz, on the main land, is a simple office for the collection of duties on goods which may be introduced for sale. A sufficient account of this port is given in the j)aragraphs on the Bay of Fuseca, and in the description of the island of Tigre, in a subsequent chapter. Chap. VIL] islands of Honduras. 107 CHAPTER VII. ISLANDS OF HONDURAS. T^O the northward of the main land of Honduras, in ^ the bay of the same name, there is a cluster of islands lying nearly parallel to the coast, at a distance from it of from thirty to fifty miles. Their names, in the order of their size, are Koatan (sometimes written Ruatan and Rattan), Guanaja (or Bonacca), Utilla, Barharetta, Helena, and Morat. Dependent upon them are numerous coral islets or "cays" of small size. These islands have good soil, fine climate, advantageous position, and some of them excellent harbors, render- ing them both valuable and important to that portion of the continent upon which they are geographically dependent. Boatan, the largest of these islands, is about thirty miles long by nine broad at its widest part. "It may be considered," says Alcedo, "as the key of the Bay of Honduras, and the focus of the trade of the neigh- borino; countries." "This beautiful island," echoes Macgregor, "has an excellent harbor, easily defended, and is well adapted to the culture of cotton, coffee, and other tropical products." And Captain Mitchell, of the British Navy, whose account was written in 1850, adds, that "the local position of the island seems one of importance in a commercial, and perhaps in a polit- ical, point of view. It is the only place where good harbors are found on an extensive and dangerous coast." And also "that its proximit}' to Central 108 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VII. America and Spanish Honduras seems to point it out as a good depot for English goods and manufactures, where they would find a ready market, even in opposi- tion to any duties placed on them.'''' " Roatan and Bo- nacca," writes another English author, "in conse- quence of their fine harbors, good soil, pure air, and great quantities of animals, fish, and fruits, and com- manding ground, are proverbially known in that part of the world as the 'Garden of the West Indies,' 'the Key to Spanish America,' and a 'New Gibraltar.' From their natural strength they might be made im- pregnable, being tenable with a very small force."* Strangeways affirms that here are found "great quan- tities of cocoanuts, wild figs, and excellent grapes. The forests produce white oaks and pine-trees fit for masts of merchant ships. It abounds with deer, wild hogs, Indian rabbits, and birds of many species. A constant breeze from the east cools and tempers the air, and there is abundance of excellent water." Younsf o describes the island "as one beautiful mass of ever- greens, from the shore to the tops of the high hills, in- terspersed with many cocoanut gardens ; and there are many patches of coff*ee, which, although abandoned, con- tinue to thrive well." The account of this island by Captain Mitchell, R. N., is the latest and fullest. He says that it has little waste land on it, and that the whole might be advan- tageously cultivated. "Limestone is the principal formation: there are also sand- stone and quartz, and a great deal of coral on the lower parts. The island seems originally to have been elevated by a volcanic eruption, and the lower portions Avashed up by the subsequent action of the sea. On the coral formations sand has been thrown ^ * Memoir on the Mosquito Territory, by Captain John Wright, p. 16. Chap. VII.] island of eoatan. 109 up ; then decayed vegetable matter and seeds, drifted or brought by birds from the continent and surrounding lands. These, springing up and decaying, have assisted in forming a fruitful soil, on which man lias at length landed, erected his dwelling, and has found the land subservient to his wants. These re- marks are applicable to the lower portions of the island. I have not lieard of any minerals having been collected on the island. " The island has a singularly beautiful appearance at a dis- tance, as you approach it in a ship. The mountains rise in a gradual height to the summit of nine hundred feet, and they seem successively to follow each other, intersected by valleys, tlie whole thickly and most luxuriantly wooded. As you draw near to it, you discover that palm and cocoanut-trees encircle the shores, and forest trees of various descriptions gi'ow on the higher hills. The natural beauty of its appearance is greatly enhanced when you cast anchor in one of its many harbors on the southern side. " In the valleys, alluvial deposits and decayed vegetable mat- ter form the soil, which is exceedingly rich and deep. On the mountains and their declivities, a red clay or marl predominates. " A great deal of good and useful timber is found spontane- ously growing on the island, such as Santa Maria wood, extens- ively used for ship-building, three varieties of oak, cedar, Span- ish elm, and lancewood, and the shores of the island are lined and surrounded Avith groves of cocoanut-trees ; a tree which, in administering to the wants of man, is hardly surpassed in trop- ical regions. The seeds of this tree in remote times have been probably drifted here, and they have sprang up in abundance on a sandy and low shore, which is found so congenial to their growth. "At present, the island produces in abundance cocoanuts, plantains, yams, bananas, pine-apples, etc., etc. ; but I feel con- vinced that bread-fiiiit, European vegetables, and, indeed, many fruits, vegetables, and productions of more temperate regions, would grow here. " The country is capable of raising all tropical productions, such as sugar, coffee, tobacco, etc., which might become staple commodities of export. 110 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VII. " There was found on the island previous to its being inhab- ited a great quantity of deer, wild hogs, Indian rabbits, parrots, pigeons, birds of various descriptions, etc. Some years ago, previous to its settlement, men from small vessels and fishing- boats, employed on the surrounding coasts, originally resorted to this island for the purpose of supplying themselves vdth game and stock. " A great quantity of domestic animals, such as poultry, pigs, etc., are raised ; cattle might be raised, but the inhabitants have not yet the means of keeping them from destroying their plant- ations. " It seems probable the island at some remote period was thickly inhabited by the Indian race. In clearing away the land for plantations, many domestic and culinary utensils have been found. There is a tradition that the Spaniards (in accord- ance with their system of cruelty), on their first discovery of America, depopulated the island ; they seized upon the abo- rigines, and took them to the continent to work in the mines, whence they never returned. " A great deal of rain falls in the winter months from Septem- ber to February. This has the effect of cooling the air beyond what is felt in the other parts of the West Indies, and the breeze tempers the influence of the sun. If the people could keep themselves dry and free from damp, the climate must not only be exceedingly agreeable, but singularly pure and healthy. The dry months are much warmer ; the natives, however, do not com- plain of the heat ; they aver that it is the healthier portion of the year. The thermometer since we have been here (January) has averaged 80° of Fahrenheit. "Rheumatism is very common, and a species of low fever or ague ; the latter probably arises fi'om the land not being suffi- ciently cleared away, and a luxuriant and decaying vegetation ; the former from constant damp and exposure. Yet I should think, from my limited observation, that the climate is not only healthy to those born in warm latitudes, but that Europeans, with proper precautions, might enjoy not only health, but live to a good old age. "The population of the island is now estimated at 1600 or Chap. VII.] island of roatan. Ill 1700. In 1843 it was only eighty. It has gone on steadUy and rapidly increasing, and there are at present three bu'ths to one death. With the means of existence at hand, and almost prepared for them, the young people have a disposition to marry at an early age ; their families are large, many consisting of nine to ten, and even more childi-en. They seem to be a proof of what has been often asserted in civilized countries, that a diet of vegetables and fish, or what is usually termed scanty food, is favorable to population. " The population is scattered in different parts along the whole sea-shore of the island ; from obvious reasons, they find these lo- calities more convenient than the interior. They here erect their dwellings, in the midst of their palm and plantain groves, having their little vessels and fishing-boats in quiet and sheltered nooks, and convey their produce and seek for their wants by water-car- riage. "xU Coxen Hole, or Port M'Donald, the greatest numbers seem located : there are here perhaps five hundred. It is a safe and sheltered harbor ; yet chance seems to have directed them, in the first instance, to this spot, as I am inclined to believe, from my limited observation, there are other places more eligi- ble for a township. " The mass of the population is composed of liberated slaves from the Grand Cayman, and a small portion of the inhabitants are colored people, also natives of that island, and formerly slave- owners. These latter people seem to be the most ■svretched on the island ; unaccustomed to labor, and having lost their prop- erty and then- slaves, or squandered away what they obtained for them, they have no longer any means of existence. From a false feeling of pride, so universal in man, and found alike in all countries, they were unwilling to labor in a smaU. island where they were once regarded with comparative consequence, and they emigrated and sought then: fortunes on tjie unpeopled shores of Ruatan. The slaves who had obtained their fr-eedom, but could not procure labor in a small island like the Grand Cayman, hearing of the success of their former masters, followed in their footsteps. " The dark population, or those who were formerly slaves, 112 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. YII. from their physical powers and their habits of labor fr^om child- hood, soon surpassed the white population in the accumulation of the means of existence, and are now the most thriving and successful. " If riches be estimated from man's wants being easily sup- plied, and the accumulation of more than he requires, these people are not only wealthy, but in far better circumstances than many of those who are relieved from manual labor in Europe. " Added to these two classes, a third, and much smaller one, must be named, which consists purely of Europeans. They are men who have tried various pursuits and professions of life, which they have given up for various reasons, have taken to others, and have become familiar with the hard usages of ad- versity ; and they sought this remote island, some in their old and some in their middle age, either to commence again, or to retrieve their broken fortunes, or to speculate in an imaginary construction of wealth. This class, though small in numbers, exercise a great influence over the minds of the community. " The mass of the population is a fine race. They are strong, active, and athletic, temperate, quiet, and regular in their hab- its, not given to excess. The sexes are equally divided, and the old, who have lived with women in the days of slavery, evince a disposition to be married. I should say they have fewer vices than one usually meets among their class. As a proof that their character is good, they have lived and are liv- ing without any form of government or restraint, and the crimes that have been committed are comparatively few. " Their occupation consists in cultivating their grounds and plantations, fishing, turtling, etc. Necessity, in all countries and in the first rude ages of civilization, has been fertile in in- vention, consequently it is by no means extraordinary to find the mass of these people familiar with those rude mechanical arts of which they stand so much in need. Every man erects his own dwelling, plants and lays out his ground — most are carpenters, some good rope-makers. They have a knowledge of boat and ship building, the making of lime, etc., and other useful attainments. Their dwellings are well and comfortably made. Chap. VII.] island of roatan. 113 " Tlieii* trade or commerce is in their plantains, cocoanuts, pine-apples, etc., and this trade is steadily increasing. With these articles they ti-ade to New Orleans, bringing back lumber, dry and salt provisions, etc. " Their relations with other countries consist principally with New Orleans, Belize, and Spanish Honduras. " I should conceive the island might maintain a population of 15,000 or 20,000 when cultivated. " The harbors on the south side of this island are many and good. I have visited Coxen Hole, or Port M 'Donald, and Dix- on's Cove. In both of these you are sheltered from all winds. They have great facilities for heaving down and repairing ships, and fresh water is found in abundance. "Dixon's Cove is a good harbor. It is about sis miles to the eastward of Port J\I 'Donald, in some points preferable to the latter. A ship having lost her anchors might run into this harbor and ground upon the soft mud without injury. Many ships might find anchorage here. "There is, again, Port Koyal, a much larger harbor, and where twenty or thirty sail of the line might be moored. Its entrance is exceedingly narrow, which is its drawback, and the land is said not to be so fertile. Generally speaking, these harbors are surrounded by reefs of coral ; their channels are narrow, and ought never to be attempted by strangers ; but a local knowledge is easily obtained.* The channels between the reefs are deep, and show themselves by the blueness of the water."* Twenty-two vessels left Hoatan in the year 1854, with fruits and vegetables for New Orleans. Griianaja or Bonacca was discovered by Columbus, then sailing on his fourth voyage, in 1502. It was surveyed in 1840 by Lieutenant Thomas N. Smith. R. N., and, according to the chart published under or- der of the British Admiralty, is nine miles in length by five in breadth. It is distant about fifty miles * Statistical Account and Description of the Island of Roatan, by Com. R. C. Mitchell, R- N., United Service Magazine, August, 1850. H 114 EEPUBLIC OP HONDURAS. [ChAP. VII. from the nearest point on the main land, and about fifteen miles to the northeast of Roatan, with which it is connected by a series of reefs, through which there are only a few narrow passages. The land is high, and can be seen from a great distance at sea. Henderson touched its shores during his voyage, anchoring in "a little bay of great depth of water, which, however, was so transparent that the shell-fish and coral rocks at the bottom could be clearly discerned. This part of the island," he continues, "is highly romantic and pictur- esque, and, like Roatan, profusely covered with trees. Its natural productions appear to be the same."* Rob- erts also visited it, "landing opposite a watering-place, in an excellent harbor on the south side. The beach, above high-water mark, was thickly covered with cocoa- nut trees, and innumerable tracks of the wild hog were visible on the ground. The island contains hills of considerable elevation, thickly covered with trees, and is said also to have beds of limestone and ores of zinc."t The account of Young, who was forced to take shel- ter there through stress of weather, is fuller, and gives a picture of the island as it was in 1841. "It is covered with high hills, producing much valuable tim- ber, and in the rich valleys and fertile savannas are numerous fruit-trees of various kinds. Along the water's edge, in many parts of the island, are numbers of cocoanut-trees. One spot, in particular, in the middle of the island, is called the cocoanut garden, where there are many other fruit-trees, indicating the hand of industry. Viewed from any part, the island has a pleas- ing appearance, and, though small, might be made of importance if the English were to establish themselves upon it. The woods abound in wild hogs of large size, and thousands of Indian rab- * Henderson's Honduras, p. 194. t Roberts's Narrative, p. 276. Chap. VII. ] island of guanaja. 115 bits ; the trees are full of pigeons and parrots ; and the lagoons and harbors are celebrated for an immense variety of fish, which may easily be caught by going toward the edges of the coral reefs in a dory (canoe), where the bottom is plainly Adsible. Here the splendid sea-fans expand themselves, and almost invite the beholder to grasp them, so seducing are they in appearance, and so deceptive is the depth of the water. In some places large clusters of sponge can be seen ; in others, handsome sea-eggs, inviting but to betray ; and, altogether, with the numerous cays, studded with graceful cocoanut-trees around, there can not be imagined a scene more novel and beautifid. Under the rocks, on the reefs round the cays, are plenty of craw-fish ; conchs and wilks are found in all parts, and a species of iguana, called il- lishle, abounds in every cay. The climate is exceedingly good, and during the ravages of the cholera at Truxillo a few years ago, the commandant of that place sent many to this island for the recovery of their health. Of the whole number, but three died. When Black River was occupied by the British, before the evacuation took place in 1778 by order of the British gov- ernment, in consequence of its agreement with S]3ain, those of the colonists who were seized with the intermittent fever were sent to Guanaja, whence they generally returned improved in health and strength. It is surprising, considering the salubrity of this island, the richness of its soil, its woods, and fisheries, and its adaptation to many purposes, that it has never been settled by the English. By many traces, it is clear that it was formerly populated by the Indians. " In one part of the island, near Savanna Bight Cay, there is a very rich and fine savanna, Avith several firuit-trees in it ; and, what is more singular, near the place a stone wall has been discovered, evidently, by its shape and appearance, the work of uncivilized man. This wall nins along for some distance a few feet high, and here and there are fissures, or rude niches, made for the admission of peculiarly-cut three-legged stone chairs, which,' I suppose, must have been seats for their idols. Sev- eral places have been discovered cut out of the solid rock rep- resenting chairs, and numerous articles of roughly-bumed clay, in various fantastical devices, for holding liquids, have been 116 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VII. found, as also broken English crockery and iron ; and I have seen several curious things in the possession of various people, which have been dug up, and are doubtless of Indian manufac- ture. I understand the adjacent island, Roatan, exhibits yet more proofs of having been inhabited by an uncivilized race. " In the months of April and May, thousands of birds, called boobies and noddies, generally lay their eggs on the southwest part of Half-moon Cay, thus affording a most delicious provision for nearly two months. " The number of cocoanut-trees is really incredible, so much so that great advantage might be derived from making oil, which might be effected at a small expense, especially as living, after the first twelve months, would cost little or nothing but labor, allowing that time for the establishment of plantations an the main land for any sort of bread kind, as the soil is so well adapt- ed for such a purpose. Plantains, which may be considered as the standard, thrive wonderfully ; this, with keeping some hogs and fowls on a cay, and feeding them on the refuse of the cocoa- nut, etc., would, in a short period, show the advantage to be reaped. A few good Spanish dogs for hunting the wild hog, two or three turtle-nets, harpoons, hooks and lines, and fish-pots, are indispensable. On the island may also be grown coffee, cotton, tobacco, cacao, etc. During the greater part of the year plenty of fish and wild hogs can be caught, but when bad weath- er sets in, which is sometimes the case, little good can be done. " With respect to making oil, it takes about fourteen common sized nuts to make a quart, by the method in vogue at Roatan, etc. ; but by the introduction of the hydraulic press, I should say, a quart might be expressed from nine or ten, and with a great saving of labor. " The many uses to which the cocoanut-tree and its fruit can be applied are pretty weU known ; suffice it to say, it may be considered as one of the most valuable productions which a bountiftd Providence has lavished on tropical climates. At the present time the island abounds with wild hogs, they not hav- ing been hunted much lately. Caribs occasionally resort to Guanaja for the purpose of hunting these animals, but they have not been so frequently as in former years, thus the hogs have Chap. VII.] island of guanaja. 117 mucli increased. The only things that can Ibe said to militate against the island and its cays are, firstly, the myriads of bottle and horse-flies on the former, and mosquitoes and sand-flies on the latter, which apjjear to deter people from setthng ; although it is evident that, when a place is covered Avith vegetation, these annoying insects must exist, and that, as the land becomes clear- ed, the flies will gradually diminish. "From March to June the cays are subject to the pest of whole armies of soldier-snails, creeping and crawling over every- thing the moment the sun sets, and with such an indescribable noise as to surpass belief; the dead branches on the ground creak and break under the legion as they advance, consuming all in their progress. They were a great nuisance to us, as we were obhged to hang up our hammocks pretty high. " On the whole, Guanaja may be considered a fine island, and one on which any man could soon obtain the necessaries of life, and with energy, activity, and a strict determination to sobriety, even the luxuries, without fear of a bastile in his old age. Helena^ Morat, and Barharetta, are comparatively small islands, and may be regarded as detached parts of Boatan. They are, in fact, connected with it by reefs, through which there are only a few narrow and intricate passages. Captain Henderson, who visited Barbaretta in 1804, has left us a very animated and quite an enthusiastic account of its beauty. He de- scribes it as high, and covered with a dense forest. "After a walk of a mile and a half along the beach, in a course contrary to that which I had pursued the day before, we came to the rocks, and here, although our progress seemed less diffi- cult to the eye, it scarcely presented fewer obstacles to the feet. Difficulties, however, sink before determination. After some trouble, I gained a firm station on a tolerable eminence, and without resorting to the extravagant and affected language some- times used on similar occasions, I might truly say the whole was enchantingly beautiful and picturesque. The spot on which 1 stood might be connected with a space of somewhat more than 118 BEPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VII. half an acre, entirely clear of trees, and covered with luxuriant grass. Beyond this the whole became a thick, continued grove, ' Where scarce a speck of day Falls on the lengthened gloom.' At the base of the rock the sea rolled with loud and haughty sway, and the confused masses of stone which lay scattered about at once confessed its uncontrollable dominion."* It was subsequently visited in 1841 by Young, who found some Spaniards from the main land established there. One of these, Senor Ruiz, showed him over his "large and extensive plantations, full of all manner of bread kind, besides greens, peas, and beans of vari- ous descri]3tions. He had a large expanse of ground covered with cotton-plants, and hundreds of papaya- trees, the fruit of which he gave to his fowls and hogs. He had also a cane-patch, and a small mill for crush- ing it, as he made his own sugar. There was a large turtle-crawl op|)Osite his dwelling containing eight tur- tles. In rainy weather, he employed his people in the manufacture of cocoanut oil. " Finding him surround- ed with all these means of comfortable and even luxu- rious existence. Young was astonished to learn that he had arrived there only three years previously, "with his wife, his son, about eleven years of age, some pro- visions, a gun, two or three machetes (large knives), and a few hooks, and other trifles.'" " I thought," con- tinues this author, " of the thousands of my poor coun- trymen struggling in vain for a decent subsistence, and who would live in independence if similarly situated, instead of being brought to an early grave by disap- pointed hopes, or the weight of a large family, "f Rob- erts, who also visited Barbaretta, speaks of finding "three or four sorts of wild grapes." * Henderson's Honduras, p. 194. t Young's Narrative, p. 151. Chap. VIL] island of Helena. 119 Helena is smaller than Barbaretta, distant from it between four and five miles, near the extreme north- eastern extremity of Hoatan. Young found there a Frenchman, in the Honduras service, who had "plant- ations and large nets for turtling. " His principal bus- iness, however, was that of making lime, which he sold at Omoa and other places at from two to three dollars a barrel: "rather a high price, but which he obtained in consequence of its strength, the kind of stone from which it is made being found chiefly in this island." Honduras has two large islands in the Gulf of Fon- seca, on the Pacific, viz., Tigre and Sacate Grande, which are described in the account elsewhere given of that gulf. 120 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VIII. CHAPTER VIII. POLITICAL DIVISIONS DEPARTMENTS OF COMAYAGUA, GRA- CIAS, CHOLUTECA, TEGUCIGALPA, OLANCHO, YORO, AND STA. BARBARA. 'T^HE political divisions of Honduras are seven, viz. : -^ the Departments of Gracias, Comayagua, Cholu- teca, Tegucigalpa, Olancho, Yoro, and Sta. Barbara. The subjoined table expresses the capital, area, and pop- ulation of each, as also the aggregate area and popula- tion of the state : HONDURAS— Capital, COMAYAGUA. Departments. Capitals. Area in Square Miles. Population. Inhabitants to Square Mile. Comayagua . Tegucigalpa . Choluteca . . Sta. Barbara . Gracias. . . . Yoro Olancho . . . Comayagua . Tegucigalpa . Nacaome . . . Sta. Barbara . Gracias .... Yoro Olancho .... 4,800 1,500 2,000 3,250 4,050 15,100 11,300 70,000 60,000 50,000 50,000 55,000 20,000* 45,000* 14i 43 25' 13X Total 39,600 350,000 9 Each department has a distinct representation in the general Congress of the state, and is governed by an officer appointed by the central government, Avho bears ihe title of Jefe Politico, or political chief. Each de- partment is also subdivided into districts, for the con- venience of the inhabitants and the better administra- tion of justice. * The population in Yoro and Olancho is calculated exclusive of the Indian tribes ; and the area of the unsettled country, comprising nearly the whole of the eastern and politically unorganized half of the state, is divided between these two departments. Chap. VIII.] political divisions. 121 DEPARTMENT OF COMAYAGUA. , Districts. — Comayagua, Lajamini, Yucusapa, Sigua- tepeque, Miambar, Aguanqueterique, Goascoran. Principal Toivns. — Las Pieclras, or Villa de la Paz, Villa de San Antonio, Opoteca, Espino, San Antonio del Norte, Goascoran, and Caridad. Tlie Department of Comayagua, lying in the very centre of Honduras, and comprehending its capital, the ancient city of Comayagua, is entitled to the first place in a notice of the various departmental divisions of the state. Its distinguishing geographical feature is the plain of the same name, to which I have elsewhere ad- verted, and in which a great part of the population of the department is concentrated. The capital itself, the considerable towns of Las Piedras and San Antonio, and the smaller towns of Ajuterique, Lajamini, Yaru- mela. Cane, Tambla, Lamani, and Lo de Flores, are all found in this plain, embracing a population of not far from 25,000 souls. The city of Comayagua (anciently called Valladolid) is situated on the southern border of the plain. It was founded in 1540 by Alonzo Caceres, in obedience to instructions '''■to find out an eligible situation for a town midivay hetween the oceans.'''' It now contains between 7000 and 8000 inhabitants. Previous to 1827 it had about 18,000, and was embel- lished with fountains and monuments. In that year it was taken and burned by the monarchical faction of Guatemala, and has never been able wholly to recover from the shock. In the maps its position has been put too far to the eastward and southward. It is in lat. 14° 28'' N., and long. 87° 39^ W., and in a right line, or within a few miles of a right line, drawn between the mouth of the 122 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VIIL Ulua and that of the Goascoran. Its distance from the Bay of Fonseca is seventy miles, and it is, within a few miles more or less, midway between the tAVO seas. Comayagua is the seat of a bishopric, and has a large, and, according to Spanish taste, an elegant Cathedral. It has also a University, founded many years ago, but which declined in consequence of the adverse political circumstances of the country, until it was revived in 1849, under the auspices of Dr. Don Juan Lindo, a man of enlightened spirit, then president of the state. The trade of the city is small. Hitherto the difficulty of communication with the coast has prevented it from gaining any commercial eminence. But when the in- centives and means for developing the resources of the adjacent country shall be afforded, it must become a place of much importance. The plain, upon its eastern and western borders, is skirted by mountains five or six thousand feet high, and it consequently enjoys a climate cool, equal, and salubrious, comparing in respect of temperature with the Middle States of our Union in the month of June. The hills and mountains adjacent to the plain are cov- ered with pines, and on their summit and slopes, Avheat, potatoes, and other products of the temperate zones are cultivated, and may be produced in abundance. The productions of the plain, however, are essentially tropical. Its soil is extremely fertile. In short, the plain of Comayagua offers all the conditions for at- tracting and sustaining, as there is abundant evidence that it formerly sustained, a large and flourishing pop- ulation. Indeed, hardly a step can be taken in any direction without encountering evidences of aboriginal occupa- tion, and the names of the principal towns in the valley H § w Chap. VIII. ] department of comatagua. 123 are only perpetuations of those which they possessed before the conquest. In some of them the predomi- nating portion of the population is still unmixed In- dian. Lamani,Tainbla,Yarumela, Ajuterique, Lajami- ni, and Cururu, are all Indian names. There are also many Indian towns which have been entirely abandon- ed as the population of the country has decreased, and of which the traces are now scarcely visible. The principal ruins, strictly aboriginal and of ancient arcliitecture, are in the vicinity of Yarumela, Lajamini, and near the ruised town of Cururu. They consist of large pyramidal, terraced structures, often faced with stones, conical mounds of earth, and walls of stone. In these, and in their vicinit}^, are found carvings in stone, and painted vases of great beauty. The 2^1'ii^cipal monuments, however, retaining dis- tinctly their primitive forms, can hardly be said to be in the plain of Comayagua. They are found in the lat- eral valleys, or on the adjacent tables ("mesas'") of the mountains. Of this descri]3tion are the ruins of Cala- mulla, on the road to the Indian mountain toAvn of Guajiquero ; of Jamalteca, in the little valley of the same name ; of Maniani, in the valley of Espino ; of Guasistagua, near the little village of the same name ; of Chapuluca, in the neighborhood of Opoteca ; and of Chapulistagua, in a large valley back of the mount- ains of Comayagua. I have visited all of these, but in many respects the most interesting, and by far the most extensive, are those of Tenampua. The ruins of Tenampua are popularly called Pueblo Vicjo, Old Town. They are situated on the level sum- mit of a high hill, almost deserving the name of mount- ain, about twenty miles to the southeast of Comaya- gua, near the insignificant village of Lo de Flores, by 124 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. YIII. the side of the road leading to the city of Tegucigalpa. The summit of the hill is a plain or savanna, covered with scattered pines, and elevated about sixteen hund- red feet above the plain of Comayagua, of which, in every part, a magnificent view is commanded. The hill is composed of the prevailing soft, white, strati- fied sandstone of this region, and its sides, except at three points, are either absolutely precipitous, or so steep as to be nearly if not quite inaccessible. At the accessible point, where narrow ridges connect the hill with the other hills of the group, are heavy artificial walls of rough stones, varying in height from six to fif- teen feet, and in width, at the base, from ten to twenty- five feet. These walls are terraced on the inner side, for convenience of defense. At various points there are traces of towers, or buildings designed perhaps for the use of guards or sentinels. The dimensions of the wall correspond to the greater or less abruptness of the slope along which it is carried, and are greatest where the ascent or approach is easiest. Where narrow gul- lies or natural passes existed, the hollows have been filled with stones, so as to present a vertical outer face, corresponding with the rocky escarpment of the hill. Naturally, I think this place is the strongest position I have ever seen. That it was selected, in part at least, for defense is obvious. Under any system of warfare practiced by the aborigines, it must have been impreg- nable. The defensive design is made still more appa- rent by the existence, in the centre of the area of the summit, at a place naturally low and marshy, of two large square excavations, now partially filled up, which were clearly designed for reservoirs. But the most interesting features of Tenampua are not its ruined walls and defenses. The level summit Chap. VIII.] department of comayagua. 125 of the hill is about one and a half miles long, by half a mile in average width. The eastern half of this large area is crowded with ruins. They consist chiefly of terraced mounds of stone, or of earth faced with stone, of regular rectangular forms, their sides conform- ing to the cardinal points. Although the stones are uncut, they are laid with great precision. Most of the small mounds, which occur in groups, and are arranged with obvious design in respect to each other, are from twenty to thirty feet square, and from four to eight feet in height. There are none of less than two, but most have three or four stages. Besides these, there are a considerable number of large pj^amidal struc- tures, varying from sixty to one hundi^ed and twenty feet in length, of proportional width, and of different heights. These are also terraced, and generally have ruins of steps on then- western sides. There are also several rectangular inclosures of stone, and a number of platforms and terraced slopes. The principal inclosure is situated in the very midst of the ruins, at a point conspicuous from every portion of the hill. It is three hundred feet long by one hund- red and eighty feet broad. The wall is fourteen feet broad, but now elevated only a few feet above the ground. It seems to have consisted of an outer and inner wall, each about two feet thick, between which earth had been filled to the depth of two feet. Trans- verse walls then appear to have been built at regular intervals, dividing it into rectangular areas, resembling the foundations of houses. It is not improbable they were smnnounted by structures of wood, devoted to the use of the priests or guardians of the great temple, in the same manner that, according to the chroniclers, "the cloisters of the priests and attendants" surround- 126 EEPUBLIC OF HONDURAS [ChAP. VIII. ed the court of the great temple of Mexico. The line of the wall is only interrupted by the gateway or en- trance, which is on the western side, between two ob- long terraced mounds, in which the ends of the wall terminate. To preserve the symmetry of the inclo- sure, the opposite or eastern wall has in its centre a large mound, also terraced and regular in form, equal- ing in size both those at the entrance. Within the inclosures are two large mounds, the rel- ative positions and sizes of which can only be explained by a plan. The largest has three stages and a flight of steps on its western side. From its southwest an- gle a line of large stones, sunk in the ground, is carried to the southern wall. The north line of this mound coincides with one drawn from east to west through the centre of the inclosure. Between it and the gate- way is a square of stones, sunk in the ground, which may mark the site of some edifice. The second pyr- amid is situated in the northeast corner of the in- closure ; it has the same number of stages with the larger one just described, and, like that, has a flight of steps on its western side. At the extreme southeast corner of the hill is anoth- er inclosure similar to this, except that it is square, and has openings in the centre of each side. It also con- tains two terraced mounds, ascended by steps. Be- tween the great inclosure, or central structure, and the precipice which faces the hill on the south, is a depres- sion or small valley. This is terraced upon both sides, the terraces being faced with stone, ascended by vari- ous flights of stone steps. The principal mound be- yond this depression is situated upon the edge of the precipice, due south of the great mound in the princi- pal inclosure. It commands a view of the entire south- Chap. VIII.] department of comayagua. 127 em half of the plain of Comayagua, and fires lighted upon it would be visible to all the inhabitants below. I could not resrist the conviction that its position had been determined by this circumstance. There are many other striking features in these ruins, of which no adequate idea can be conveyed except from plans, and which, therefore, I shall not attempt to de- scribe. The most singular, perhaps, consists of two long parallel mounds, each one hundred and forty feet in length, thirty-six feet broad at the base, and ten feet high in the centre. The inner sides of each, facing each other, appear to have consisted of three terraces, rising like the seats of an amphitheatre. The lower terraces are forty feet apart, and faced with huge flat stones, set upright in the ground, so as to present an even front. The outer sides of these mounds have an appearance corresponding with that of the walls of the great inclosure, and each seems to have been the site of three large buildino;s. The whole rests on a terrace three hundred and sixty feet long. Exactly in a line with the centre of the space between these parallels, and distant twenty-four paces, are two large stones placed side by side, with an opening of about one foot between them. Fronting these to the northward, and distant one hundred and twenty paces, is a large mound occupying a corresponding relative position in respect to the parallels, and having a flight of steps on its south- ern side. Upon these mounds, as indeed upon manj^ of the others, are standing large pine-trees, upward of two feet in diameter. Without attempting to define the special purposes of these parallels, it seems to me probable that they had a corresponding design with the parallel walls found by Mr. Stephens at Chichen- Itza and Uxmal in Yucatan. Doubtless games, proces- 128 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. YIIL sions, or otlier civic or religious rites or ceremonies, took place between them, in the presence of priests or dio-nitaries who were seated upon the terraces on either hand. The form of the various mounds at Tenampua pre- cludes the idea that they were used as the foundations of dwellings. It seems quite clear that they were ei- ther altars, or sites of temples — counterparts of those of Guatemala, Yucatan, and Mexico, and of a large por- tion of those found in the Mississipj)i Valley, with all of which they accurately coincide in the principles of their construction. I was able to excavate but one, situated in the vicinity of the great temple. The mass of the mound, after penetrating the stone facing, was found to be simple earth ; but the interior of the up- per terrace was composed almost entirely of burned matter, ashes, and fragments of pottery. Great quan- tities of these fragments were discovered, and I was able to recover enough of some vessels to make out their shape, and the paintings and ornaments upon them. Some were flat, like pans ; others had been vases of va- rious forms. All were elaborately painted with simple ornaments or mythological figures. One small, gourd- shaped vase, of rude workmanship, I recovered nearly entire. It was filled with a dark-colored, indurated matter, which it was impossible to remove. Fragments of obsidian knives were also found. Near the western extremity of the summit of the hill are two deep holes with perpendicular sides, sunk into the rock. They are about twenty feet square and twelve feet deep. Although now partially filled with earth, a passage is to be discovered at the bottom of each, leading off to the north. These passages seem to have been about three feet high by nearly the same width. Chap. VIII.] department of comayagua. 129 How far they may go, or whither they lead, is unknown. The water which flows into them during, rains finds a ready outlet. I am unprepared to decide whether these openings are natural or artificial, but incline to the opinion that they are natural, Avitli perhaps artificial im- provements or adaptations. A ruined pyramid stands near the principal mouth. The tradition concerning them is that they were dug by 'the "antiguos," and lead to the ruins of Chapulistagua, beyond the mountains, and were designed to afford an easy means of flight in case of danger. Altoo-ether there are here the remains of between o three and four hundred terraced, truncated pyramids of various sizes, besides the other singular inclosures which I have mentioned. The whole place probably served both for religious and defensive purposes. This union of purposes was far from uncommon among the semi-civilized families of this continent. I have presented, in my work on the Monuments of the Mississippi Valley, many in- stances in Avhich structures strictly religious are found within works clearly defensive. It was within the area, and on the steps and terraces of the great temple of Mexico, that the Aztecs made their final and most de- termined stand against the arms of Cortez. It is not to be supposed, however, that this was a fortified town, or a place permanently occupied by any considerable population. The summit of the hill is rocky, and the soil thin and poor, affording few of the usual accesso- ries of a large Indian population, viz., abundant water and rich lands. The builders doubtless had their per- manent residences in the plain below, and only came here to perform religious or sepulchral rites, or to find safety in times of danger. I 1 30 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. YIII. Falling within the Department of Comayagua is the plain of Espino. It lies to the northward of the plain of Comayagua, from which it is separated by only a narrow range of hills, and of which it maybe regarded as an extension or dependency. It is watered by the same river, the Humuya, which traverses its entire length. The plain of Espino is sometimes called Ma- niani. It is much smaller than that of Comayagua, be- ing but about twelve miles long by eight broad, but in other respects, such as climate, productions, etc., what is true of one is equally true of the other. Dependent also upon the plain of Espino is the small lateral valley of Jamalteca, a spot of surpassing beauty, abounding in springs of water, which sustain its vege- tation fresh and vigorous, and enable the inhabitants to keep an uninterrupted succession of crops during the dryest seasons, when the country elsewhere is parched, and agriculture is suspended. In this valley are some very interesting monuments of the aborigines, indicating a large ancient population. Nearly the whole length of the valley of the Rio Go- ascoran, which flows southward from the plain of Coma- yagua into the Gulf of Fonseca, falls within this depart- ment. This valley is narrow, and, except at its mouth, where it expands into the Pacific plains, does not em- brace much valuable land. It is chiefly interesting as offering an easy route for the projected line of railway. The mountains of San Juan or Guajiquero, in the southeast portion of this department, are occupied ex- clusively by Indians descended from the aboriginal Lencas. These mountains of stratified white sandstone are naturally terraced, presenting to the eye bold escarpments of rock, but supporting beautiful level areas, covered with rich soil, on which the Indians cul- Chap. VIII.] department of comayagua. 131 tivate wheat and other grains, and the fruits of higher latitudes. They also rear a fine and very hardy race of mules, and altogether evince a degree of persever- ance and industry, very wide nevertheless of enter- prise, which we look for in vain among the semi-Eu- ropean inhabitants. Every department in Honduras possesses more or less mineral wealth. In this respect, although not ranking so high as some of the others, the Department of Comayagua is abundantly favored. The considera- ble town of Opoteca is literally built upon a silver mine, which was most extensively worked under the crown, and with signal success. At* present the atten- tion of the inhabitants, for obvious reasons, is directed to agriculture. Near Aramacina, Las Piedras, and in the mountains near Lauterique, are numerous mines of silver, now wholly abandoned or imperfectly worked. They only need the touch of intelligence, enterprise, and capital to become of value. CojDper ores exist in abundance, but no attempt has ever been made to re- duce them. Throughout the entire department there are vast beds of blue and veined marble, j)roper for ev- ery class of constructions and for conversion into lime. The predominating rock is sandstone, generally milky white, but sometimes of cream color verging on orange. Near Guajiquero are also found inexhaustible beds of variously-colored ochres, of fine quality. These were and still are used for painting by the aborigines. The colors are remarkably vivid. Pine and oak are abundant on the hills througliout this department, and mahogany, cedar, and lignum- vitse, as well as other useful woods, are found in all de- sirable quantities in the valleys bordering the streams. Many varieties of cactus are found in the plain of Co- 132 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. YIII. mayao-ua. The most common is the* variety called the nopal in Mexico, and which is cultivated in the south- ern states of that country, and in Guatemala, for the production of cochineal. The numerous wild plants of this variety found in Honduras produce what is called grana silvestre, or wild cochineal. The 23lains of Comayagua andEspino are admirably adapted, there- fore, for the cultivation of cochineal, as well as coffee, and all the other great staples of semi-tropical regions. DEPARTMENT OF GRACIAS. Districts. — Ocotepeque, Guarita, Erandique or Cor- quin, Gualalcha, Sensenti, Camarca, Intibucat, Gracias, Sta. Rosa, and Trinidad. Principal Towns. — Gracias, Sta. Rosa, Intibucat, Sensenti, Corquin, San Jose, Ocotepeque, Cololaca. The Department of Gracias lies in the northeastern angle of the state, touching upon Guatemala and San Salvador. Its territory is, in many respects, the most interesting in all Central America, of which it may be regarded as, in some degree, an epitome. In resj^ect to it we have more information than in regard to any of the others. This is due to Sehor Don Jose M. Cacho, present Secretary of State of Honduras, who, as Com- missioner of the Census of 1834 for this department, discharged his duties, considering all the difficulties of the case, in a very creditable manner. Its surface is much diversified, and it is distinguish- ed by several groups of majestic mountains. The Mountains of Selaque occupy very nearly the centre of the department ; and on the north it has the range of Merendon, which, as I have elsewhere said, extends from the borders of San Salvador to the Bay of Hon- duras, a distance of not far from one hundred and fifty 'i4 ^ < < Chap. VIII.] department op gracias. 133 miles. It is called by different names at different points, as Merendon, Gallinero, Grita, Espiritu Santo, and Omoa. No towns occur in these mountains, ex- cept the small village of Dolores Merendon. At its feet, upon the north, are several beautiful valleys, among Avhich is that of Copan, distinguished for its ancient monuments. Upon the south, nearly coinciding with the boundaries between this department and that of Comayagua, are the Mountains of Opalaca and Puca, both of commanding height. They extend to the north- eastward, nearly parallel to those of Omoa, until inter- cepted by the valley of the Rio Sta. Barbara. All of these mountains are heavily timbered with pines and oaks. Their lower slopes, and the valleys at their feet, produce the cedar, mahogany, and other valuable woods in great abundance. In the Mount- ains of Merendon is found the Quetzal^ the royal and sacred bird of the aboriginal kingdom of Quiche, and one of the most beautiful found in the world. Like all other parts of Honduras, this department is profusely watered. In it rise some of the largest streams of Central America. To the west of the Mountains of Merendon, and rising in its gorges, are the small rivers Gila and Gualan, which flow into the Motagua. Flowing along the eastern base of the same range is the Kio Chamelicon, which has its rise a few leagues to the northward of the town of Sta. Rosa. It forms a valley of great beauty and fertility, which, like that of Copan, abounds in monuments of a large aboriginal population. The river Santiago or Venta, which, after its junction with the Humuya, is called the Ulua, has its sources in the great plain of Sen sen ti, where it bears different names — Rio de la Valle, Alas, Higuito, and Talgua. Its first great trib- 134 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VIII. utary in this department is the E-io Mejicote, or Gra- cias, flowing along the eastern base of the Mountains of Selaque. Below the point of junction, the Santiago is a large, unfordable stream. Along the southern bor- der of the department, and constituting the boundary separating it from San Salvador, is the River Sumpul, one of the largest affluents of the great river Lempa, flowing into the Pacific. It receives several considera- ble tributaries from the territories of this department. Among them may be mentioned the Guarajambala, Pirigual, Moscal, and Cololaca. Perhaps the most interesting topographical feature of this department is the plain or valley of Sensenti, lying between and almost encircled by the Mountains of Selaque, Pacaya, and Merendon. It is about thirty- five miles long by from five to fifteen in width. It is nearly divided by a range of hills, which extend par- tially across it in the neighborhood of Corquin. The upper valley might, with propriety, be called that of Sensenti, the lower one the plain of Cucuyagua. The latter has an average altitude of 2300 feet, and the former of 2800 feet above the sea. The soil through- out is good, and the climate delightfid. It constituted part of the dominions of the aboriginal cazique Lem- pira, who resisted the Spaniards longer than any chief in Central America. The army with w^hich he encoun- tered the Spanish general Chaves was more numerous than the present entire population of the department. The climate of the department is unexcelled for sa- lubrity. The general temperature, as might be inferred from the elevated character of the country, is cool, al- though no two places can, in this resj)ect, be said to be alike. Their climate varies with their elevation. In- tibucat, an Indian town, situated in the midst of a con- Chap. VIII.] department of gracias. 135 siderable plain or terrace of the Opalaca Mountains, is 5200 feet above the sea. Occasional slight falls of snow take place here during the months of December and January. I passed through the town in the early part of the month of July, when the thermometer at sunrise stood at 5G° of Fahrenheit. Peaches, apples, and plums flourish in this plain, and the blackberry is indigenous among the hills. The towns of Caiquin and Colocte have a temperature still lower than that of Intibucat. During three weeks which I spent at Sta. Rosa, from July 9 to August 1, the average tem- perature at sunrise was 68°, at noon 72°, and at 3 P.M. 73° of Fahrenheit. From September to February the thermometer has a still lower range. The vegetable products of this department, actual and possible, exhaust the list of productions of the temperate zones and the tropics. Wheat, rye, barley, the j^otato, etc., grow on the mountains, while sugar- cane, indigo, tobacco, cotton, coffee, cacao, plantains, oranges, etc., flourish in the plains and valleys. Of valuable timber there is also great abundance. Pine, equal to the best North Carolina, covers the hills. There is also much mahogany, cedar, granadillo, Bra- zil Avood, mora, etc., for purposes of dyeing, manufac- ture, and construction. Copal, balsam, and liquid am- ber are among the most common gums. The tobacco of Gracias, as will be seen farther on, has a wide and deserved celebrity. . Apart from its agricultural wealth, Gracias is dis- tinguished for its minerals and precious metals. Gold and silver mines are numerous and rich, although but little worked, for want of scientific knowledge, intelli- gence, machinery, and capital. The silver and copper mines of Coloal, in the IMountains of Mcrendon, are 136 REPUBLIC OP HONDURAS. [ChAP. VIII. very valuable, the copper ores yielding 58 per cent, of copper, besides 98 ounces of silver to the ton. The silver ores of Sacramento yield 8674 ounces of silver to the ton. Coal is also found in the plain or valley of Sensenti, near the half-deserted town of Chucuyuco. I visited the beds at a place where they were cut through by ravines, and found the principal deposit from eight to ten feet thick, separated by bituminous shale from a superior bed about two feet in thickness. The coal is bituminous, and, at the outcrops, of fair quality. Asbestos, cinnabar, and platina are also found in this department. Opals are obtained at various localities, and have been exported to a considerable extent. The most and best have been found near the mountain town of Erandique. It appears from the official paper of Honduras that, from the 1st of April, 1851, to the 31st of January, 1853, there were "denounced," or entered, in accord- ance with the mining laws, not less than sixteen opal mines in the single district of Erandique. In the de- partment at large, for the same j)eriod, were entered thirteen silver mines, one gold mine, and one coal mine. Amethysts are reported as having been found near Campuca. Near the little town of Virtud, in the extreme south- ern part of the department, is a curious natural phe- nomenon, known as Mina 6 Fuente de Sangre^ Mine or Fountain of Blood. * From the roof of a small cavern * " A little to the south of the town of Virtud is a small cavern (gnUa), which during the day is visited by the buzzards and gabilanes, and at night by a multitude of large bats (vampiros), for the purpose of feeding on the natural blood which is found here dropping from the roof of the cavern. This grot is on the borders of a rivulet, which it keeps reddened with a small flow of a liquid that has the color, smell, and taste of blood. In approaching the grot a disagreeable odor is observed, and when it is reached there may be seen some pools of the apparent blood in a state of coagulation. Dogs eat it eagerly. The late Don Rafael Osejo undertook Chap. VIII.] department of choluteca. 137 there is constantly oozing and dropping a red liquid, which, upon falling, coagulates, so as precisely to resem- ble blood. Like blood, it corrupts ; insects deposit their larva3 in it, and dogs and buzzards resort to the cavern to eat it. In a country where there is so little scien- tific knowledge as in Central America, a phenomenon of this kind could not fail to be an object of great, if not superstitious wonder, and many marvelous stories are current concerning the Fountain of Blood, At- tempts have several times been made to obtain some of this liquid for the purpose of analysis, but in all cases without success, in consequence of its rapid decomposi- tion, whereby the bottles containing it were broken. By largely diluting it with water, I succeeded in bring- ing with me to the United States two bottles of the liquid, which I submitted to Professor B. Silliman, Junior, for examination. It had, however, undergone decomposition, and was very offensive. It had depos- ited a thick sediment, containing abundant traces of original organic matter. The peculiarities of the liquid are doubtless due to the rapid generation in this grotto of some very prolific species of colored infusoria. DEPARTMENT OF CHOLUTECA. Districts. — Nacaome, Amapala, Choluteca, Savana Grande, Texiguat, Cururen, Santa Anna. Principal Toivns. — Choluteca, Nacaome, Texiguat, Amapala, Langue, Pespiri, Savana Grande. Choluteca is the extreme southern department of Honduras, fronting on the Bay of Fonseca. It lies on the western slope of the Mountains of Lepaterique or Ule, among which the streams that water it take their to send some bottles of this liquid to London for analysis, but it corrupted within twenty-four hours, bursting the bottles." — Gacela de Honduras. Fcbruaiy 20, 1853. 138 KEPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VIII. rise. It is, consequently, extremely diversified in sur- face. The valleys of the rivers Choluteca and Na- caome are broad and fertile, and the district fronting on the bay is distinguished for its extensive savannas and densely-wooded alluvions. For an average dis- tance of fifteen miles inland, the soil is admirably adapt- ed for plantations, and undoubtedly capable of produc- ing in profusion all the staples of the tropics. As the country rises, which it does by a series of terraces, the savannas become broader and more numerous, affording vast 23astures for herds of cattle, which at present prob- ably constitute the chief wealth of the department. The Mountains of Ule, or Lepaterique, which bound the department on the north, are not less than 5280 feet in height at the j^oint where they are crossed by the high road from Nacaome to Tegucigalpa. Their sum- mits are broad, undulating plains, cool, salubrious, and fertile, and literally constitute the granaries of the ad- jacent mineral districts. Wheat, potatoes, and espe- cially maize, have there a vigorous and most productive growth. Hail, and occasionally snow, falls there, and in a few instances it has been known to fall in sufiicient quantities to whiten the ground for several days. From the summits of the Ule Mountains the eye takes in a landscape more than a hundred miles broad, from the great blue masses of the Mountains of Sulaco on the north, to the volcanoes of Nicaragua and the Gulf of Fonseca on the south and southeast. From these mountains the traveler also obtains a fine view of the valley of Choluteca, which sweeps in luxuriant beauty around its base, the course of its riv- er being clearly defined by the belts of evergreen for- ests which grow upon its banks. This view is obtain- ed through the broad, dependent valley of Yuguare, Chap. VIII.] department of choluteca. 139 celebrated, even in Honduras, for its surpassing beauty and exhaustless resources. In this valley are several considerable Indian towns, whose inhabitants are dis- tinguished alike for their industry, bravery, and repub- lican spirit. Those of Texiguat and of Cururen ob- tained great distinction in the wars which preceded the dissolution of the republic of Central America, and are now among the most loyal and faithful citizens of the state, and its bravest defenders. Apart from its agricultural wealth, the Department of Choluteca is rich in minerals, but chiefly in mines of silver. Amons^ the latter is the famous mine of Corpus, near Choluteca, which, under the crown, was regarded of so much importance as to induce the Au- diencia to establish a branch of the treasury there, in order to receive the royal fifths. It is now worked in a very small way, the shafts having been filled with water, and the adits obstructed with fallen rock. The mines of Cuj^al and San Martyn, also found in this de- partment, are now Avorked profitably on a small scale. Their value is much enhanced by their proximity to the Gulf of Fonseca, through which the requisite ma- chinery can be brought within reach. Mills have re- cently been established on the island of Tigre for saw- ing the cedar, mahogan}-, and other valuable woods which are found in great abundance on the coast, for exportation to Chili, Peru, and California. The islands of Tisrre and Sacate Grande, which have already been noticed (see p. 96), as also the free port of Amapala, fall within the jurisdiction of thife depart- ment. Choluteca, which has a population of about four thousand souls, is nominally the capital, but the seat of administration has for a number of years been at Nacaome. This town is situated on the river of the 140 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [CliAP. VIII. same name, about eight miles above its mouth, and has a population of about two thousand inhabitants. A few leagues above, on the same stream, is the consider- able town of Pespiri. In the vicinity of Nacaome, at a place called " Aguas Calientes," there are several hot springs, much esteemed for their medicinal properties. DEPARTMENT OF TEGUCIGALPA. Principal Toivns. — Tegucigalpa, Yuscuran, Cedros, San Antonio Mineral, Yuguare, Agalteca. The Department of Tegucigalpa is the smallest, but relatively the most populous of the political divisions of Hondm-as. It may be described as occupying a great interior basin or plateau, bounded on the north and west by the Mountains of Sulaco and Comayagua, and the south and east by those of Ule and Chili. The average elevation of this mountain-bound plateau is not less than three thousand feet above the sea. It is drained by the River Choluteca, which nearly describes a circle in tracing its course among the mountains, through which it breaks by a deep and narrow gorge or valley into the broad and rich plains of the Pacific coast. The temperature of the department is cool, and its climate can not be surpassed for salubrity. Its soil is not generally so productive as that of the remaining departments, but it excels them all in the number and value of its mines. It is, in fact, essentially a mining district ; and, until the political disturbances of the country rendered the prosecution of that branch of in- dustry almost impossible, mining was the chief employ- ment of its people,, and their principal source of wealth. The mines of Yuscuran are still worked, as are also those of San Antonio and Santa Lucia. The 2fold and > ' -s««^«**^^y; City of Tegucigalpa, Honduras, Plaza of Tegucigalpa. ;J^'^o^4PS. sc> Chap. VIII.] department of Tegucigalpa. 143 silver mines of San Juan Cantaranas are second to none in the state in value, but they are not largely worked, for precisely the reason which is most likely hereafter to commend them to American and European enterprise. The natives can not be induced to estab- lish themselves in their vicinity, on account of the cold- ness of the climate. The Mountain of Agalteca, in the northwest 2")ortion of this department, is a vast mass of very pure and highly magnetic iron ore. Some of the ore has so large a per centage of metal, that it is forged directly from the mine, Avithout undergoing the previous process of smelting. Since the decline of the mining interest, the proprie- tors of this dejDartment have engaged largely in the raismg of cattle, many of which are driven to San Sal- vador and Nicarao;ua for sale. Tegucigalpa, the capital of the department, is the largest and finest city in the state, numbering not less than twelve thousand inhabitants. It stands on the right bank of the Rio Choluteca, in an amphitheatre amonoc the hills, and is substantiallv and reo;ularly built. It has not less than six large churches. The Parroquia is hardly second to the Cathedral of Comayagua in size. A fine stone bridge, of ten arches, spans the river, and connects the city with the suburb called Comaya- guita. It had formerly several convents and a Uni- versity, the last of which has still a nominal existence. It has also a mint, but it is now only used for the coin- ing of the copper or provisional currency, which circu- lates in the central departments at a gi'eatly depre- ciated value. The trade of Tegucigaljia was formerl}- carried on through the j)orts of Omoa and Truxillo, but, since the establishment of the free port of Ama- pala, it has chiefly taken that direction. 144 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VIII. DEPARTMENT OF OLANCHO. Principal Toums. — Juticalpa, Catacamas, Campami- ento, Silca, Monte Rosa, Yocon, Laguata, Danli, Teu- pac. The Department of Olancho joins tliat of Tegucigal- pa on the east. It has an area of not less than 11,300 miles, or something more than that of the State of Marjdand. But a small portion of this wide district is inhabited by a civilized population, the greater part, comprising the entire eastern half, being in the posses- sion of Indian tribes, known as Xicaques, Payas, Pan- tasmas, and Toacas. The Spanish settlements are al- most entirely confined to the large interior plateau, gen- erally called Valley of Olancho, in which the great riv- er Patuca, and the hardly less important streams known as Pio Tinto and Poman or Aguan, take their rise. This valley is represented as undulating, fertile, and chiefly covered with luxuriant savannas, supporting vast herds of ca,ttle, which constitute the chief wealth of the people. In this resjDect, indeed, Olancho is dis- tinguished above any other equal extent of Central, or perhaps of Spanish America. From its elevation and the proximity of the mount- ains, Olancho has a cool and healthful climate. Its people are industrious, and live in the possession of all of the necessaries and many of the luxuries of life. From their geographical position, away from the cen- tres of political commotion, they have enjoyed compar- ative quiet during all the disturbances to which the country at large has been subjected. This circumstance has been favorable to the accumulation of property, and the department is therefore relatively the richest in the state. Chap. VIII.] department of olancho. 145 Its exj^orts are cattle, hides, deer-skins, sarsaparilla, tobacco, and bullion, which are chiefly taken to Omoa and Truxillo ; a jjortion, nevertheless, goes, by the way of Tegucigalpa, to the Gulf of Fonseca. Next to its herds of cattle, its principal sources of wealth are its gold-washings. Nearly all the streams in the depart- ment carrj' gold of a fine quality in then- sands. These washings were distinguished for their richness at the time of the conquest, and have ever since maintained a local celebrity. But the jealous policy of Spain was effectively directed to the suppression of all knowledge of the wealth and resources of these countries, and their condition since the independence has been unfavorable to their development. There can, however, be but lit- tle doubt that the gold-washings of the rivers GaavaiX! and Mangualil, and their tributaries, are equal in value to those of California, and must soon come to attract a large share of attention both in the United States and in Europe. At present the washings are only carried on by the Indian women, who devote a few hours on Sunday mornings to the work, living for the remainder of the week upon the results. A farther notice of the mineral wealth of this department will be found in the chapter on mines and minerals. Juticalpa, capital of the department, ranks third in the state in respect of size. It is delightfully situated on a small tributary of the Guayape, not far from the principal stream, and is reputed to contain 10,000 in- habitants. Near it is the large Indian town of Cata- camas, and there are other considerable towns of In- dians scattered throughout the valley. These Indians are proverbial for their peaceful disposition and indus- trious habits. The communication between the vallev of Olancho K 146 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. YIII. and the coast is chiefly carried on by innles, through the valley of the River Aguan, to Truxillo. A road was formerly opened through the valley of the Rio Tinto, but it was rough and difficult, and soon aban- doned. There exists a much easier means of commu- nication by way of the Rio Patuca, which is navigable as far as the Puerto de Delon, within a few leagues of Juticalpa. But the absence of a good port, as well as of commercial establishments at the mouth of the river, has rendered this natural highway of but little value. It is now chiefly used in floating down mahogany, which grows in large quantities on its banks. But even this trade is embarrassed by the difficulty of load- ing the wood in the open roadstead ofl" the bar of the river. How far the Wanks River may ultimately be made useful to the trade of this department and that of Segovia, in Nicaragua, can only be ascertained by a survey of that stream, the capacities of which are now but little known. DEPARTMENT OF YORO. Principal Towns. — Yoro, Olanchito, Truxillo, Ne- grito, Jocon, and Sonaguera. The Department of Yoro comprehends all the north- ern part of Honduras lying eastward of the River Ulua. Its area is upward of 15,000 square miles — equal to the three states of Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island ; but, while the largest department in size, it is the smallest in respect of population. Its surface is exceedingly diversified. It is made up of a series of valleys, formed by the numerous streams which flow down from the interior into the Bay of Hon- duras. These have a direction from south to north, and, except on the very shores of the bay, where the Chap. VIII.] department of yoro. 147 country is plain and alluvial, are separated from each other by a corresponding number of ridges, or mount- ain spurs or ranges, of various elevations. Communi- cation transversely to these valleys and mountain ridges is exceedingly ditiicult, and the population of the department, therefore, has been chiefly concentrated in the valleys of those larger streams which have ports near their mouths, and through which pass the roads leading from the interior to the coast. The Mountains of Pija and Sulaco rise in the west- ern 2^art of this department, and form the eastern boundaries of the valleys of the Sulaco and Ulua Kiv- ers. They are terraced and truncated, constituting elevated savannas, sparsely covered with pines ; but their soil is comparatively poor, and they have conse- quently failed to attract population from the more fa- vored portions of the state. Tradition points to them as containing great mineral wealth, but they have never been adequately explored, and nothing can be affii-med in this respect with any degree of certainty. The valleys of all the streams abound in precious woods, and the department may be described as com- prising the great mahogany district of Central Amer- ica. There are "corses," or cuttings, on nearly all the streams which from their size admit of the wood being floated down to the coast. The inhabitants are chiefl}' mahogany-cutters by occupation, having their tempo- rary residences at the various '■'■ coi^tes''' during the sea- son of cutting, and retu-ing to their homes and planta- tions when it is ended. On the upper waters of the streams, and among the mountains and hills which intervene between the coast and the valley of Olancho, are found the remnants of the once famous and indomitable nation of Xicaque In- 148 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. YIII. dians. Their numbers are not- known, but are esti- mated at not far from seven thousand. They are peace- ful and inoffensive, and traffic freely with the Span- iards, collecting sarsaparilla, India-rubber, and skins, for the purpose of exchange for such few articles of civilized manufacture as they may require.* The greater portion of the great plain of Sula, de- scribed below, falls within this department. To the eastward of this plain, and, in fact, constituting an ex- tension of it, is a vast tract of rich and valuable terri- tory, known as Costa de Lean. It has equal capacities with the plain of Sula for agricultural purposes, and in this respect holds out inducements inferior to no oth- er part of Central America or the West Indies. The proximity of the mountains, absence of marshes, abund- ance of good water, and exposure to the sea-breezes, are circumstances favorable to its salubrity, and must have an influence in directing to it the attention of emigrants and planters. The valleys of Sonaguera and Olan- chito may also be mentioned as equally remarkable for their beauty, fertility, and general resources. Yoro, a town of about three thousand inhabitants, is the capital of this department. Truxillo, already de- scribed (p. 102), is its principal seaport. DEPARTMENT OF SANTA BARBARA. Districts. — Omoa, Sta. Barbara, Yojoa, San Pedro. Principal Toiuns. — Sta. Barbara, Yojoa, Omoa, San Pedro Sula, Quimistan. This department lies to the northward of Gracias and Comayagua, and intervenes between these departments * A large number of Carib Indians, emigrants from the island of San Vincent, are also established in this department ; but, as a full account of them has been given elsewhere, it is unnecessary to speak of them in this connection Chap. VIII.] department of sta. Barbara. 149 and the Bay of Honduras. It is traversed by several large streams. The Ulua runs through it from south to north, and the Blanco, Santiago, Sta. Barbara, and Chamelicon also flow through it in other directions. The valleys of these rivers afford large tracts of level and fertile lands, well wooded, and capable of vast pro- duction. The gTeat plain of Sula, which may be said to com- mence at Yojoa, is a distinguishing feature of this de- partment. It is not only of great extent, but of un- bounded capacity. The early accounts of the country represent it to have been densely populated by the ab- origines. It is now mostly covered hj a hea\y forest, relieved only by a few narrow patches of cultivated gTounds in the vicinity of the towns which are scatter- ed alono- the camino real. This forest abounds in val- uable woods, and from it a greater part of the mahog- any exported from Honduras has been derived. The Chamelicon and Ulua are the natural channels through which the mahogany has been, and still is, carried to the sea-side. That portion of the plain of Sula lying to the eastward of the Hiver Ulua is included in the Department of Yoro. Taking it as a whole, it may be estunated as having a base of sixty or seventy miles on the Bay of Honduras, reaching inland, in the form of a triangle, to Yojoa, a distance of upward of fifty miles, and comprising an area of not less than fifteen hundred square miles. In the future development of the coun- try, this plain will attract the first attention, not less on account of its valualjle natural products, than its easy access through good ports, its navigable rivers, and rich and easily-cultivated soil, adapted to the production of cotton, rice, sugar, cacao, and the other great staples of the tropics. A ^'ariety of the cacao, called cacao 150 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. VIII. mico^ and said to be equal, if not superior, to the cele- brated cacao of Nicaragua and Soconusco, is indigen- ous here, and the inhabitants draw their su]3ply from the wild trees in the forest. The vanilla and sarsa- jjarilla are also abundant. Copal-trees, India-rubber, rosewood, dragon's-blood, and other useful trees and precious woods, are found in profusion, and will ulti- mately contribute to swell the exports and augment the wealth of the state. Vast numbers of palms, of every variety, relieve the monotony of the forest with then* graceful forms. At one point on the banks of the Ulua, a few leagues above its mouth, is a natural park of the cocoanut-palm, which extends along the river for several miles. In the neighborhood of Yojoa the country rises by a series of magnificent terraces, which open out in broad, undulating savannas. Their soil is good, and, apart from their natural adaptation for grazing pur- poses, they admit of profitable cultivation. These ter- races are represented as constituting the distinguishing features of the country around the city of Santa Bar- bara, where the principal part of the population of the department is concentrated. The great dependent mountain chain of Merendon, elsewhere alluded to as dividing the valleys of the Chamelicon and Motagua, and terminating abruptly on the sea at Omoa, affords, on its slopes, favorable conditions, both of soil and climate, for the cultivation of the grains and fruits of higher latitudes. It more- over seems to be rich in gold, which is found, more or less abundantly, in all the streams which flow down its southern declivity. In the neighborhood of Qui- mistan there are washing's which have Ions: been cele- brated for their productiveness. In that portion of Chap. VIII.] department of sta. Barbara. 151 this chain back of Omoa, and overlooking the plain of Sula, are vast beds of white marble of spotless purity, fine, compact, and susceptible of exquisite finish. It more closely resembles the marbles of Carrara in Italy than any of those found in the United States. It is easy of access, and may be obtained in any desirable quantity. The fine, capacious harbor of Puerto Caballos, and the small but secure port of Omoa, both fall in this de- partment. They are fully described under the subdi- vision of "Ports of Hondm-as." The inhabitants of this department are chiefly de- voted to the raising of cattle, of which large numbers are exported to Belize and Yucatan, and driven into Guatemala, where they command prices ranging from five to ten dollars per head. A large part of the peo- ple in the towns in the plain of Sula, or bordering upon it, are employed in the mahogany cuttings, while a few, chiefly Indians, collect sarsaparilla, or occupy them- selves, at intervals, in washing gold. Altogether, the department is healthy, and possessed of vast resources, the value of which is enhanced by the natural facili- ties which it possesses, both in respect of geographical position and the means of interior communication. 152 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. IX. CHAPTER IX. ASPECTS OF NATURE IN /HONDURAS. npHE aspects of nature in Honduras are varied and striking. The conditions of conformation of coast, of elevation and consequent temperature, the amount of rain falling upon the respective declivities of the Cordilleras, all contribute to diversify the forms under which vegetable life presents itself to the eye of the traveler. The three gi'eat features, nevertheless, are the coast alluvions, generally densely wooded, the ele- vated valleys of the interior, spreading out in broad savannas, and the high plateaus of the mountains, sus- taining an unending forest of scattered pines, relieved by occasional clumps of oak. Upon the northern coast, in the broad plain through which the Ulua and Chamelicon find their way to the sea, the country is so low as occasionally to be over- flowed for considerable distances. Here grow immense forests of cedar, mahogany, ceiba, India-rubber, and other large and valuable trees, thickly interspersed with palms, whose plumes rise through every opening, and fringe the bases of all the hills. The smaller streams are arched over with verdure, and completely shut out from the sun, while the large rivers gleam like silver bands in fields of unbroken emerald. But even here, where the land is lowest, spread out broad, grassy meadows, the retreats of innumerable wild-fowl, and during the dry season, when the grass on the hills be- comes sere and withered, offering abundant support for Chap. IX.] aspects of nature. 153 herds of cattle. In the depths of these primeval for- ests the mahogany-cutters prosecute their laborious calling, rousing the echoes with the ringing strokes of the axe and the shouts of the truckmen, who, with twenty oxen attached to a single log, drag the heavy trunks to the edges of the rivers. The broad meadows supply them with food for their cattle, while every com- pany has its hunter and fisher to help out the fixed rations with which it is provided by the proprietors of the establishments. Farther to the eastward, on the same coast, the heavy forests are confined chiefly to the valleys proper of the rivers, and give place, at little distances inland, to sandy savannas, covered with coarse grass, and clumps of pines and acacias. But the plain country of the coast is every where narrow. The spurs or dependent ridges of the mountain groups of the interior often come down to the very shore. Immediately back of Omoa, with- in cannon-shot of its fortress, the mountains begin to rise abruptly, and speedily attain the height of nine ■ thousand feet, looking down majestically upon their shadows in the clear waters of the beautiful Bay of Amatique. Such also is the case at the port of Trux- illo. The peaks of Congi^ehoy, and the Mountains of the Holy Cross or Poyas, form gigantic landmarks for the mariner in his approach to the coast of Honduras. The alluvions of the Pacific coast are also densely wooded, but not extensive. At short distances inland they give place to numerous savannas and jicarcdes, in which the low calabash-tree, with its fruit resem- bling the ap2:)le, conveys to the traveler the idea of a New England orchard. These savannas are studded with clumps of acacias- (gum-arabic bushes), and cover- ed with gTass; but the pine docs not appear on this 154 REPUBLIC OF PIONDURAS. [ChAP. IX. side of the continent, except upon the slopes of the hills at an altitude of about twelve hundred feet. The valleys of all the rivers, on both coasts, are heavily wooded, and covered with lianes or vines ; but as they are ascended toward the interior, vegetation di- minishes, and is reduced to a narrow fringe of trees and bushes upon their immediate banks. These valleys, in the high interior country, often expand into broad and beautiful plains, half savanna, half woodland, the common grounds where the products of the tropics and of the temperate zone, the palm and the pine, flourish side by side. Such are the plains of Espino and Co- mayagua on the Humuya, of Otoro on the Sta. Bar- bara, Sensenti on the Ulua, La Florida on the Chame- licon, Olancho on the Aguan, and Yuguare on the Cho- luteca. In some of these, as in that of Comayagua, the variant forms of cactus become distinguishing fea- tures, frequently attaining to gigantic size, and al- most taking the character of forests. Here they stud the ground, spherical and spinated, warning man and beast against incautious tread, yet radiating from their gTooved sides flowers and fruits of delicate ruby, in shape and color like glasses of tenderest crystal, flow- ing over with ruddy wine of golden Burgundy. There they rise in tall, fluted columns, appearing in the exag- gerating twilight like the ruins of ancient temples. And still beyond we see them, articulated and jointed, spreading their broad succulent palms, silvered with the silky habiliments of the scarlet cochineal, as if in im- ploration to the sun. And yet again, lavish of con- trasting forms, they trail like serpents over the ground, and twine themselves in knotty coils around fallen trunks and among the crevices of the barren rocks. Here, too, the agave appears, with its dense green clus- Chap. IX.] aspects of nature. 155 ter of spinynedged leaves, shooting up its tall stem, to flower but once, scatter forth its thousand bulbs, and then to die. The mountains which rise around these valleys are ascended by terraces, crowned with forests of pines and oaks, and carpeted with gTass. The summits of the mountains sometimes run up in peaks, but generally constitute broad table-lands, more or less undulating, and often spreading out in rolling savannas, traversed with \o^Y ridges of verdure, and green belts of trees, which di'oop over streams as bright and cool as those of New England. Here the familiar blackberry is in- digenous, and the bushes which impede the traveler are covered with fruit. Wheat-fields, billowing beneath the cool mountain winds, and orchards of peach and apple trees, struggling against man s neglect, give to these districts all the asj^ects of the temperate zone ; and when, at night, bright fires of the pine illuminate every hut, and the picturesque inhabitants cluster around them to receive the warmth which the temper- ature here renders necessary to comfort, the stranger can scarcely appreciate that he is under the trojDics, and within fourteen degrees of the line. The contrast which his experiences of to-day afford with those of yester- day, when he rode among groves of palms, plantains, and oranges, become still more decided when the cold, sleety rain descends from leaden skies, or the sharp hail falls from tumultuous clouds, SAvept over his head by blasts as chill and pinching as those of a northern No- vember. But whether in plain, in valley, or on mountain, every where the trees are covered with parasitic plants. Some varieties of cactus, particularly that of which the long, tangled arms are prismatic in form, do not dis- 156 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. IX. dain to fix themselves in the forks of the calabash-tree, and overwhehn it with their own more rapid growth. So abundant are these air-plants, that it is sometimes difficult to discover the verdure of the tree to which they are attached. Some are delicate as threads of silk, and others coarse and rank, but all of wax-like beauty, and many producing flowers of brilliant colors. Science would exhaust its nomenclature in distino;uish- ing them, and the traveler is happy to think of them as yet unburdened with the portentous designations of studious Dryasdusts, to whom nature was not given as " a joy forever,"" but a thing to be classified, and named, and mummified in Greek and Latin cerements. Upon the higher mountain crests, where the short and hardy grass betokens a temperature too low for luxuriant vegetation of any kind, the air-plants them- selves disaj^pear, and the pines and gnarled oaks are draped in a sober mantle of long gray moss, which waves mournfully in the wind, like frayed and dusty banners from the walls of old cathedrals. The rocks themselves are browned with mosses, and, except the bright springs gushing from beneath them and trickling away with a silvery murmur, there is no sound to break the eternal silence. The traveler sees, perhaps, a dark shadow sweep over his path ; it is that of the eagle or of the voiceless raven, poising in the sky. Upon some distant rock his eye catches a slight and graceful figure ; there is a sudden but noise- less bound, and the antelope of the mountain has dis- appeared. The geological features of Honduras are equally marked and impressive. Starting from the Gulf of Fonseca and advancing northward, we leave behind us the volcanic coast-range, with its high, grassy peaks of Chap. IX.] aspects of nature. 157 scoria}, and reach at once vast masses of white and rose-colored rock, the outliers of the great sandstone nucleus of the central plateaus. Viewed from a dis- tance, they appear like cliifs of trap or basalt, and take a thousand castellated forms with the changing posi- tions of the traveler. Among these we find occasional beds of blue limestone, and ribs of quartz and greenstone are here and there boldly protruded through the su- perincumbent rocks, richly veined with ores of silver and of gold. As we pi'oceed farther inland, the mountains rise by a succession of terraces, deeply furrowed by streams descending to the sea. These terraces prove to be a succession of vast stratified sandstone deposits or beds, presenting abrupt edges, up which the sure-footed mule toils painfully and with difficulty. But when the as- cent is accomplished, the traveler finds spread out be- fore him extensive savannas, interspersed with gi'oves of pines, and clumps of oaks and bushes. Often the layer of soil is thin, and a scant vegetation strives in vain to divest nature of its savage aspect. The rocks, exposed and bare, reflect the light of the sun, which shines down through the clear and rarefied atmosphere of these elevated reo;ions with a blindino- o-lare. The weary traveler looks forward with aching eyes, tracing the white line of the solitary path across the arid plain, and urges on his faithful mule, in the hope of finding some narrow valley, worn in the rock by mountain streams, where he may form his lonely camp for the night, in the pleasant company of living trees and run- ning waters. Suddenly the plateau along which he is journeying breaks away in a few rapid terraces, and reveals, almost beneath his feet, a wide and level plain, mottled with I 158 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. IX. savanna and forest, threaded with bright streams, and dotted with villages, whose white churches catch the light like points of silver in the landscape. It seems but a little distance there : a stone thrown from the hand might fall in the square plaza, so distinctly de- fined, of the first village ; but hour after hour the trav- eler toils downward, and night falls, and he sees the gleaming of lights in the valley before the familiar barking of dogs and the instinctive accelerated pace of his mule apprise him that at last he has reached the level ground. In the western part of Honduras, among the mount- ains of Corquin, the outline of the country is exceed- ingly bold and diversified. The rivers, collecting their waters in interior basins, break through the porphy- ritic mountains and hills which surround them in deep valleys or gorges, with steep and precipitous sides. Yet in these fissures, whose bottoms are only reached by dangerous zigzag paths, are found strips of alluvial soil, where the Indian builds his hut, and the necessary plantain has a luxuriant growth, beneath high and frowning cliffs, bristling with peaks, like gigantic sen- tinels, along their rocky ramparts. A greater variety of trees and abundance of verdure cover the hills and mountains of the northern coast, which have, in consequence, a less rugged aspect than those on the Pacific declivity, where the rains are not so constant. The hills are more swelling, and the mountains, though equally elevated, have a softer and more harmonious outline. They present few clifis or rocky crests, and in their denser forests afibrd more con- genial retreats to the multitudinous forms of animal life whic]i are nurtured in the genial tropics. Birds of brilliant plumage sparkle in the foliage of Chap. IX.] aspects of nature. 159 the trees, and crowds of monkeys troop among their branches. The tapir, the peccary, and the ant-eater live in their shade, and the puma and the cougar lurk in their recesses. Here, too, are found the boa, the bright corral, and the deadly tamagas. The vanilla hangs in festoons from the limbs, and the sarsaparilla veins the earth vdih its heahno- root. And while sil- o ver, imprisoned in flinty quartz or crumbling green- stone, tempts men to labor with the promise of rich re- ward on the other slope of the continent, here gold glit- ters in the sands of almost every stream. It is thus that Nature, lavish of her gifts, has com- prised within the comparatively narrow limits of Hon- duras a variety of scenery, as well as of climate and production, unsurpassed by any equal portion of the earth. Upon the coasts she robes herself in luxuri- ance, draped in vines, crowned with flowers, and her breath is fragrant with aromatic gums, while the sea kisses her feet with its frothy lips. But among the mountains, in sober, monastic robes, she is no longer the productive mother. The mnd lifts the gray hair on her serene brow; but even here her lips, though motionless, still utter a language of lofty and holy im- port to the sensitive ears of her true votaries. 160 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. * [ChAP. X. CHAPTER X. MINES AND MINERALS. XN respect of mineral resources, Honduras ranks first ^ among all tlie states of Central America. Indeed, the mineral wealth of the country at large seems chiefly confined to that system or cluster of mountains which constitutes what may be called the plateau of Hon- duras. Nueva Segovia and Chontales, the mineral dis- tricts of Nicaragua, naturally belong to this mountain system ; and the same is true of the mineral district of the Department of San Miguel in San Salvador, which embraces the only mines found in that state. There are a few mines of gold and silver in Guatemala and Costa Rica, but,- as compared with those of Hon- dm-as, they are insignificant in number and value. '^' Mining has indeed been always, and until recently, the predominant interest in Honduras ; but no branch of industry sufifers so directly from wars and civil dis- sensions, such as have agitated Central America for the last thirty years. As a consequence, mine after mine has been abandoned, and the works once fallen into decay, there has been neither the enterprise, capital, or intelligence necessary to restore them. The mining districts are istudded with decayed mining villageg, * " El estado de Honduras es el mas rico en puntos minerales ; alii esta el famoso del Corpus, que en otros tiempos produjo tanto oro, que se establecio en el una tesoreria para solo el cobro del derecho de quintos ; el departamiento de Olancho en el misra^ estado posee el rio Guayape, de cuyas arenas se saca, sin beneficio, el oro mas apreciable." — Montcfur, Centra- America, xxiii. Chap. X.] mines and minerals. 161 whose proprietors have become hacienderos^ OAvners of immense grazing estates, on which their former labor- ers are now employed as herdsmen. A few establish- ments are still kept up, but the operations are conduct- ed on a very small scale and in a very rude manner, and affoi'd a very imperfect indication of the capabili- ties of the mines. Few of the mines were ever opened in conformity with any well-established or intelligent system, nor witli any reference to continuous or extended operations. Without adits or machinery for draining, the only means of removing the water which invaded many of the richest were leathern buckets carried on the backs of men, in which manner also the ore was brought up from shafts so narrow as rarely to allow more than one man to work in breaking out the ore. When obtain- ed, it was frequently crushed by heavy stones, beveled on their lower edge, and vibrated backward and forward by men, or else slowly reduced by the rudest and most cumbersome machinery, driven generally by oxen or mules, but occasionally by Avater. In the latter case the apj^aratus consisted of a vertical shaft (driven by a wheel moving horizontally), through which passed an arm, having at each end heavy stones attached by chains, which were thus dragged over the ore, in a basin of masonry, until it Avas reduced sufficiently for amalga- mation. This last operation was performed by placing the amalgam in heaps in a ^'■jkUio,'''' or yard, upon a floor of boards, Avhcre it remained for sev^eral weeks, until the amalgamation became complete, Avhen the mass Av as Avashed in troughs, and the result reduced by fire. But, even under all these difficulties, and rude and expensive processes, mining in Honduras, as I have L 162 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. X. said, was formerly carried on extensively and profita- bly. The mines were seldom worked to any great depth, and their proprietors were often obliged to aban- don most of them before they had been carried to the depths where the richest ores are generally found. Others were given up from lack of knowledge of treat- ing the ores ; and still others from the lack of roads whereon the ores could be transported to the mills. There are hundreds of mines scattered over the coun- try, abandoned and filled with water, most, if not all of which could be profitably worked by the application of j)roper machinery. But as there are now no roads over which machinery can be transported, many of them must await the general development of the country to become of value. The rough and narrow mule-paths in the neighborhood of the ports on both oceans are lined with fragments of heavy and expensive machin- ery, which men more enterprising than prudent have vainly essayed to introduce into the country. They are enduring monuments of that blind energy which neg- lects necessary means in its eagerness to attain desira- ble ends. Silver ores are most abundant and valuable of any which exist in the state. They are chiefly found upon the Pacific ranges or groups of mountains, while the gold- washings, if not the gold mines proper, are most numerous on the Atlantic slope. The silver is found in various combinations, with iron, lead, copper, and, in a few instances, with antimony. Chlorides of silver are not uncommon, and rank among the richest ores in the country. The group of silver mines in the neighborhood of Ocotal in Segovia (Nicaragua) enjoy a high celebrity, and are undoubtedly of great value. They yield their Chap. X.] mines and minerals. 163 silver in the forms of sulphurets, bromides, and chlo- rides. Some of the mines give an argentiferous sul- phm^et of antimony. The mine of Limon, in the vicin- ity of Ocotal, formerly yielded large quantities of chlo- ride of silver, but is now unworked for want of requi- site machinery to keep it free from water. The ores of this district yield variously from 28 to 727 ounces of silver per every ton of 2000 lbs. or 32,000 ounces. The mineral district of Yuscuran, in the Department of Tegucigalpa, has a high and deserved reputation for the number of its mines and the value of its ores. These are, for the most part, an argentiferous galena, and, when worked, yield from 63 to 1410 ounces per ton. The mines throughout this department and that of Choluteca }deld a similar ore, generally occurring in a matrix of quartz, with varying proportions of brown blende, and sulphurets of zinc and iron, and oxydes of iron. The mines of the. Department of Gracias are equally celebrated with those of Tegucigalpa. Some remarka- ble combinations of silver are found in their ores. The upper, or old mine of Coloal has sulphuret of copper (copper glass), galena with sulphuret of silver, and in parts copper pitch ore and black copper, the whole yielding fifty-eight per cent, of copper, besides from seventy-eight to eighty-four ounces of silver to the ton. The ores of the new mine of Coloal are a combination of chloride of silver, a little sulphuret of silver, oxyde of iron and antimony, mixed with earthy matter, and yield the somewhat startling proportion of 23.63 per cent., or 8476 ounces per ton of 2000 lbs. ! Dependent upon the silver deposits of Honduras are those of the Department of San Miguel, in San Salva- dor. The silver occurs generally in the form of sul- 164 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. X. phurets, in combination with galena, iron, black blende (sulphuret of zinc), in quartz and greenstone matrices, interspersed with threads and crystals of native silver. The particular mines known as those of " El Tabanco" are richest, and yield from 100 to 2537 ounces per ton. These have been extensively and profitably worked, and derive a large part of their value from their prox- imity to the Bay of Fonseca. Gold mines are not uncommon in Honduras, but, excepting those of San Andres in the Department of Gracias, and in the vicinity of San Juan Cantaranas in Tegucigalpa, they are no longer worked. The prin- cipal supplies of this metal in the state are drawn from the gold-washings of Olancho, which are exceed- ingly productive. The River Guyape has always en- joyed great celebrity for the amount of gold contained in its sands ; but, since the early periods of Spanish occupancy, washing has not been carried on except on a very small scale by the Indians, and even with them the process is generally left to the women and children, who only work for a few hours on Sunday mornings. Yet the amount thus obtained and carried into Juti- calpa in the year 1853 was valued at $129,600. The following jDaragraphs in reference to the gold district of Olancho are extracted from a private letter from Dr. Charles Doratt, who visited that region in 1853: "Among the rivers of Olancho, which we visited and 'prospected,' the Guyape and Jalan are decidedly the richest in auriferous sands. These two rivers unite a little below Juticalpa, the capital of Olancho, and form the Bio Patuca or Patook (see ante^ p. 79). The gold deposits on the Guyape commence properly at a point called Aleman, continuing thence up the river, the Chap. X.] mines and minerals. 165 banks upon both sides containing much fine gold. We found gold in the alluvions half a mile distant from the present bed of the river. Leaving Juticalpa in a northeast direction, and crossing the department near Yocon, over an area of twenty leagues long and ten broad, there U not a streamlet, however insignifi- cant, which does not contain gold both in its sands and in the banks which border it. For the most part, these streams follow the courses of the mountains, and fall into the Guyape and Jalan. The remaining ones, in- cluding the Sisaca and Mangualil (the latter carrying 2old of larger size than the others), run into the 'Rio Mirajoco,' which, taking the name of Taguale, after fertilizing the beautiful valley of Olancho, reaches the sea near Truxillo. In these larger rivers the gold is found in deposits near the bends and rapids. The fin- est gold is from the Guyape, Jalan, and Mangualil, in the Department of Olancho, and the Sulaco, Caymito, and Pacaya in that of Yoro. * * * At Aleman the women only wash the sand on Sunday mornings, and, with the aid of their miserable hatteas, in a few hours procure a sufficient quantit}^ of the metal to sup- ply their wants for the ensuing week. It is sold on the spot at from $11 50 to $12 per ounce. At Gui- jana the gold is found in a soft slate, and at San Fe- lipe in a red, ferruginous earth. About five leagues from Danli, the Jalan produces Avell, and at the time of my visit there were more than a hundred men and women engaged in washing. They also used the hat- teas, and never went more than two or three feet below the surface." The southern districts of Honduras, bordering on Nicaragua, bear also rich placers of gold, whence the Indians " annually take considerable quantities. The 166 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. X. same is true of the northern districts of the Depart- ment of Sta. Barbara. The streams which flow from the Mountains of Omoa into the Rio Chamelicon, and especially those in the vicinity of the town of Quimis- tan, all carry gold in their sands. Miners properly provided Avith implements for washing could not fail to secure here a rich reward for their labor and enter- prise. Honduras has also mines of copper of unsurpassed richness and value. The ores in all cases contain con- siderable proportions of silver. Those of Coloal, in Gracias, already alluded to, contain 58 per cent, of cop- per, besides about 80 ounces of silver to the ton. The ores from the mine of Guanacaste, Department of Olan- cho, give upward of 80 per cent, of pure copper, besides 2.9 per cent, of silver, equal to 1039 ounces of silver per ton. But, notwithstanding their great richness, these mines have been always neglected by the mining interest, or worked primarily for the silver which they contain in combination Avith the copper. Under the peculiar circumstances of the country, and principally from the difficulty of communication, the production of this metal has hitherto been regarded as unprofita- ble, and the pure cojDper as hardly worth its transport- ation to the coast ; but, with improved means of com- munication, and the introduction of modern improve- ments in reducing the ores, the copper mines of Hon- duras must become one of the principal sources of wealth to the state. There are some mines of this metal in the neighborhood of the Gulf of Fonseca from which it has been customary for the merchants to ballast vessels, or fill out the freight of those bound for England or Germany, where the ores have always com- manded a good price, and yielded a fair retm-'n to the Chap. X.] mines and minerals. 167 shippers, notwithstanding the difficulty and cost of transportation to the coast. Byam, who visited Nicaragua and Honduras for mining purposes, describes the copper ores as, for the most part, "uncombined with sulphur," and not re- quiring calcination. He adds, that ' ' they may all be smelted in a common blast furnace, with the aid of equal quantities of iron stone, of which there is abund- ance in the hilly country. The ores are what the Span- ish miners call metal de color, red and blue oxydes, and green carbonates, with now and then the brown or pig- eon-breasted. They cut easily and smoothly with the knife, and yield from 25 to 60 per cent. The veins are generally vertical, and the larger ones run east and west." Iron ores are common, but none of the mines of this metal are worked, except those of Agalteca in Tegu- cigalpa. The ore is highly magnetic, and so nearly pure that it is forged without smelting. It occurs in vast and exhaustless beds, and the metal might be pro- duced in any desirable quantity ; yet, within ten leagues of the mine, in the same department, it sells at the rate of from $10 to $12 -per quiiital, equal to $200 per ton! Platina is said to exist both in the departments of Choluteca and Gracias, but the mines have never been worked. Cinnabar has also been found at several points, but probably not in sufficient quantities to ad- mit of being reduced with profit. Zinc occurs in vari- ous combinations, and superior ores of the metal are found in great abundance on the islands of Guanaja. (Bonacca) and Roatan. Antimony and tin also exist, but whether in such combinations as will admit of then' economic production remains to be proved by ex- periment. 168 REPUBLIC OP HONDURAS. [ChAP. X. The opal mines of Gracias are worked to a large ex- tent, and have been very productive. Some of the stones are large and beautiful, but most have suffered at the hands of the Indians, who estimate their value rather from their numbers than their size, and conse- quently break them in small pieces. No means exist for determining the annual product of the opal mines, but it may be partially inferred from the fact that the mines or workings in the department are not less than one hundred in number. Amethysts are also reported as having been found in this depart- ment, but none have fallen under my notice. Asbestos is known to exist, and, there is reason to believe, might be produced in quantities sufficient to meet all demands. Coal has been discovered in several localities. The beds in the valley or plain of Sensenti are very exten- sive. I visited those in the neighborhood of the vil- lage of Chucuyuco, at a j^oint where they are cut through by the streams flowing down from the Mountains of Merendon into the Rio Higuito. The lower bed is about eight feet in thickness, separated from an upper stratum, which is two feet in thickness, by a layer of bituminous shale. The coal is Avhat is called "brown coal, " which is of a later formation than that familiarly known as "^3?^ coal.,'''' which occurs beneath the new red sandstone. It is a tertiary formation of the era of the chalk of the Mississippi Valley. This coal occurs in vast layers in various parts of Germany, where it is ex- tensively used for smelting metals in reverberating fur- naces. Specimens of the Sensenti coal gave the fol- lowing results : Specific gravity .... 1.504 Ashes 25 per cent. But these specimens were taken from the exposed faces Chap. X.] mines and minerals. 169 of the beds, where they were washed hy the? streams, and were consequently much infiltrated with foreign substances. The area of the beds is not known, but they probably extend below the greater part of the plain or valley. Situated so far inland, it is not pre- sumed that these beds can ever have more than a local value in the reduction of the rich silver and co^iper ores found in the neighboring mountains. Other beds of coal are said to exist in the valley of the Sulaco River, Department of Comayagua, and in the neighborhood of Nacaome, Department of Cholu- teca, but I am in possession of no positive information in resjoect to them. There are some beds in the valley of the River Torola, which will be more fully noticed when I come to speak of the coal deposits of the valley of the River Lempa, State of San Salvador. In addition to these brief notices of the mines and minerals of Honduras, I may mention that an abund- ance of fine white, blue, and veined limestone is scat- tered throughout every department- of the state. Large beds are found within a few miles of the Gulf of Fon- seca, and extend thence through the valley of the Rio Goascoran, plain of Comaj'agua, and valley of the Humuya, to the Bay of Honduras. The hills and mountains back of Omoa have exhaustless quarries of a fine, compact white marble, remarkably free from faults and stains, and well adapted for statuary and or- namental use. It is impossible, from the same want of data which I have deplored in respect to every other branch of in- dustry, to form an accurate or satisfactorily approx- imate estimate of the past or present production of the mines of Honduras. It is alleged by persons whose antecedents entitle their statements to weight, that up- 170 REPUBLIC OP HONDURAS. [ChAP. X. ward of $3, 000, 000 in gold and silver were annually exported from the northern parts of the state during the later years of its provincial existence. Since the independence, a small export duty has existed on bull- ion, but the facilities for evading the law have been such that it is not likely that one tenth part of the amount sent out of the country has come upon the rec- ords of the customs. Any statement upon the subject must therefore be purely conjectural. In 1825, a statement was made by the Master of the Mint of the Federal Republic of the amount of gold and silver coined for the period of fifteen years previ- ous and subsequent to 1810. He reported as follows : "For fifteen years, ending 1810, were coined 285 marks of gold, 253,560 marks of silver, collectively val- ued at $2,193,832. "For fifteen years, ending 1825, 1524 marks of gold, 423,881 marks of silver, equal in value to $3,810,383." But the amount coined in the mint of Guatemala was insignificant in comparison with the aggregate pro- duct of the country during the same period. Where there was one dollar of coin from the mint in circula- tion, there were twenty dollars which were without the government stamp, mere rough pieces of pure gold and silver, which were received and paid out by weight.* Furthermore, during that period, with the exception of indigo and cochineal, the precious metals constituted the principal export of the country. Upon this point the report above quoted observes: "It must not be deduced from these statements that the amount of gold * Thomas Gage, an English friar, who resided for twelve years in Guatemala, about the middle of the seventeenth century, has left us some facts which go to show the large and unrecorded production of the precious metals at that period. He speaks of one hundred mules entering the city of Granada "laden with gold and silver, which was the king's tribute," — New Survey of the West Indies, p. 421. Chap. X] mines and minerals. 171 and silver coined indicates the amount produced in the country. Apart from the amount manufactured into ornaments and used for other purposes, there has been a great quantity exj)orted, particularly since 1821. It is positively known that the merchants of Honduras and other parts have exported great quantities of gold and silver bullion, so that, according to the calculations of intelligent persons, not one tenth part of the pro- duction of these metals has passed into the mint. On this account, it is impossible to state exactly the act- ual produce of each year, and much less the amount exported, because the greater part has been eifected clandestinely. In all the territories of the republic there are mines in abundance, but particularly in the State of Honduras, where the greatest number are to be found, and where Nature presents her greatest min- eral Avealth.* * '•' M. Gourmez, a mining engineer, who has visited most of the mines of Hondm^as, assures me that it is easier to find mines than men to work them ; and that, if labor and means of communication existed, our mineral productions might in a short time rival those of Mexico and Peru."* It should be observed that Honduras has adopted, without modification, the famous ^'- Ordenanzas de la Miner ia,'''' or mineral ordinances of Spain, for the gov- ernment of th« mining interest. * It is affirmed, in the report here quoted, that upward of two thousand metallic veins had been registered in Honduras up to the year 1825. 172 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. XI. CHAPTEE, XI. PRECIOUS WOODS VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS ANIMALS FISHES REPTILES INSECTS. T^HE precious woods of Honduras rank next only -^ to its minerals in point of value. At present they probably constitute the princijDal item in the ex- ports of the stata Tliose best known are the mahog- any and rosewood ; but the proportion of the former which enters into commerce is much the greatest, and, both in this respect, and as giving employment to a considerable body of the inhabitants of the state, it is entitled to a first consideration. And here it may be observed that the mahogany-tree of Honduras {Sivietinia Mahogoni)^ in respect of its vast size and magnificent foliage, is entitled to be called '^'King of the Forest." In comparison Avith it, all other trees dwindle into insignificance. The enormous size and height of the trunk, the vast spread of its branches, and the space of ground occupied by its roots, are equally remarkable. It is of exceedingly slow growth, hardly undergoing a perceptiljle increase of size in the narrow span of man's life. It has been cal- culated that it requires three hundred years wherein to attain a growth proper for cutting. Some idea may be formed of the ofreat size which it sometimes attains from the fact that the lower section of a tree, seventeen feet long, has been knoAvn to measure "in the square" five feet six inches, equal to five hundred and fift}'^ cubic feet, and a weight of seventeen tons ! ly Chap. XL] precious woods. 173 The mahogany grows in nearly all parts of Hondu- ras, in the valleys of the various streams. It is, how- ever, most abundant upon the low grounds which bor- der the rivers flowing into the Bay of Honduras, where it also attains its greatest size and beauty, and where the mahogany-works, called ' ' cortes" (cuttings) by the Spaniards, are chiefly confined. As these lands are for the most part the property of the state, the wood is cut under licenses obtained from the government, which exacts a fixed sum for each tree. Except those made at the mouths of the various rivers for receiving, marking, and shipping the wood as it is floated down, the mahogany establishments are necessarily tempo- rary, and changed from time to time as trees become scarce in their neighborhood. Of all occupations known to man, that of the ma- hogany-cutter is perhaps the Avildest in its nature, and yet among the most systematic in its arrangements. When the cutter has fixed upon the valley of some river as the field of his operations, he makes a de^Dot for storing provisions, and for securing and embarking the wood. Here he maintains a little fleet oi ijitpans for carrying supplies and keeping up relations with the "Avorks" proper, the sites of which are determined chiefly by the abundance of trees, their accessibility, and the means that exist for feedins; the cattle wdiich it is necessary to use in "trucking' the wood. To these points it is often necessary to drive the oxen through thick and untracked forests, and to carry the chains and trucks, by means of small boats, against strong currents, or over sliallows atid rapids, Avhich are only surmounted with infinite labor. The site once definitively fixed upon, the next step is to erect temporary dwellings for the men : a task of 174 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. XI. no great difficulty, as the only requisite is protection from the sun and rains, which is eifected by a roof thatched with long grass from the swamps, or with "cahoon" leaves, or the branches of the thatch-palm. A hammock swung between two posts, two stones to support his kettle, and the hut of the cutter is both finished and furnished ! The mahogany season, which lasts some months, commences in August of each year, it being the opin- ion of cutters that the wood is not then so apt to split in falling, nor so likely to "check" in seasoning, as when cut from Aj)ril to August, in what is called "the spring." Furthermore, by commencing at this period, the cutter is enabled to get down his wood, and prepare it for trucking by the setting in of the dry season. The laborers are divided into gangs or companies of from tAventy to fifty each, under the direction of a leader styled "a captain," who directs the men in his company, assigns them their daily tasks, and adds to or deducts from their wages in proportion as they accom- plish more or less than what is supposed to be a just day's work. Each gang has also one person connected with it, who is called a hunter, whose duty it is to search the "bush" for trees proper to be cut. His work, therefore, commences somewhat earlier than that of the others, and, as it involves activity and intelli- gence, he is paid much higher wages than the mere cut- ters. His first movement is to cut his way through the thickest of the woods to some elevated situation, where he climbs the tf|llest trees he finds, from which he minutely surveys the surrounding country. "At this season of the year (August), the leaves of the ma- liogany-tree are invariably of a yellow-reddish hue, and an eye accustomed to this kind of exercise can, at a great distance, dis- Chap. XL] precious woods. 175 cern the places where the wood is most abundant. He now descends, and to such places his steps are at once directed, and, without compass or other guide than what observation has im- printed on iiis recollection, he never fails to reach the exact spot at which he aims. On some occasions, no ordinary stratagem is necessary to be resorted to by the huntsman to prevent oth- ers from availing themselves of the advantage of his discoveries ; for, if his steps be traced by those who may be engaged in the same pursuit, which is a very common thing, all his ingenuity must be exerted to beguile them fi*om the true track. In this, however, he is not always successful, being followed by those who are entirely aware of all the arts he may use, and whose eyes are so quick that the slightest turn of a leaf or the faintest impression of the foot is unerringly perceived ; even the dried leaves which may be strewed upon the ground often help to conduct to the secret spot ; and it consequently happens that per- sons so engaged must fi-equently undergo the disappointment of finding an advantage they had promised to themselves seized on by others. The hidden treasure being, however, discovered, the next operation is the felling of a sufficient number of trees to em- ploy the gang during the season. " The tree is commonly cut about ten or twelve feet from the ground, a stage being erected for the axe-man employed in lev- eling it ; this, to an observer, would appear a labor of much danger, but an accident rarely happens to the people engaged in it. The trunk of the tree, from the dimensions of the wood it » furnishes, is deemed most valuable ; but, for purposes of an or- mental kind, the limbs or branches are generally preferred, their grain being much closer, and the veins richer and more varie- gated." A sufficient number of trees being cut, the prepara- tions for "trucking" commence by the opening of roads from the places where they lie to the nearest river. The distance of road to be cut depends on the situation of the trees. When they are much dispersed, miles of roads and many bridges are required. A firm and well- graded main road is first built, from whence radiate 176 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. XI. numerous wing-roads. These are all built by task- work, and the principal amount of the labor of the cut- ters is expended upon them. The clearing away of the bushes and undergrowth is the work of one set of men, who are expected to clear one hundred yards per day. They are followed by another set, who cut down the larger trees as even with the ground as possible, the task being also one hundred yards per day to each la- borer, although this is more difficult and laborious, from the number of hard woods growing here, which, on fail- ure of the axe, are removed by the application of fire. The trunks of these trees, although many of them are valuable for different purposes, such as bullet-tree, iron- wood, redwood, sapodilla, etc., are thrown away as use- less, unless they happen to be adjacent to some creek or small river which may intersect the road ; in that case they are applied to the constructing of bridges across the same, which are frequently of considerable size, and require great labor to make them of sufficient strength to bear such immense loads as are taken over them. The roads being finished generally by the month of December, the trees are sawn into logs of various lengths, in order to equalize the loads which the oxen have to draw. This being completed, the logs are sep- arated one from the other, and placed in whatever po- sition will admit of the largest square being formed according to the shape which the end of each log pre- sents, and is then reduced, by means of the axe, from the round or natural form into "the square;" although some of the smaller logs are brought out in "the round," yet, with the larger description, the making them square is essential, not only to lessen their weight, but also to prevent their rolling on the truck or carriage. Chap. XI.] precious woods. 177 " In the months of April and May, all the various prepara- tions having been completed, and the dry season having become sufficiently advanced, the " trucking" commences in earnest. This may be said to be the mahogany-cutters' harvest, as the result of liis season's work depends upon a continuance of the dry weather, for a single sliower of rain would materially injure his roads. The number of trucks worked is proportioned to the strength of the gang, and the distance generally from six to ten miles. We will, for example, take a gang of forty men, capa- ble of working six trucks, each of which requires seven pair of oxen and two drivers, sixteen to cut food for the cattle, and twelve to load or put the logs on the can-iages, which latter usually take up a temporary residence somewhere near the main body of the wood, it being too far to go and return each day to the river side, or chief establishment. From the intense heat of the sun, the cattle would be unable to work dui'ing its influ- ence ; consequently, they are obliged to use the night-time in lieu of the day, the sultry effects of which it becomes requisite to avoid. Tlie loaders, as before mentioned, being now at their stations in the forest, the trucks set off from the einbarcadero about six o'clock in tlie evening, and arrive at tlieir different places of loading about eleven or twelve o'clock at night. The loaders, being at this time asleep, are warned of the approach of the trucks by the cracking of the whips carried by the cattle- drivers, which are heard at a considerable distance ; they arise, and commence placing the logs on the trucks, which is done by means of a temporary platform laid from the edge of the truck to a sufficient distance upon the ground, so as to make an in- clined plane, upon which the log is gradually pushed up from each end alternately. Having completed their work of loading all the trucks, which may be done in three hours, they again re- tire to rest till about nine o'clock next morning. The drivers now set out on their return, but their progi'ess is considerably retarded by the lading, and, although avcII provided with torch- light, they arc frequently impeded by small stumps that remain in the road, and which would be easily avoided in daylight ; they, however, are in general all out at the river by eleven o'clock next morning, when, after throwing the ^~-'" '"^'^ ■'^ M 178 REPUBLIC OP HONDURAS. [ChAP. XI. river, haAang previously marked tliem on each end with the owner's initials, the cattle are fed, the drivers retire to rest un- til about sunset, when they feed the cattle a second time, and joke in again. " Nothing can present a more extraordinary appearance than this process of trucking, or drawing down the mahogany to the river. The six trucks will occupy an extent of road of a quar- ter of a mile. The great number of oxen, the drivers half naked (clothes being inconvenient from the heat of the weather and clouds of dust), and each bearing a torch-light, the wildness of the forest scenery, the rattling of chains, the sound of the whip echoing through the woods — then all is activity and exertion so ill corresponding with the silent hour of midnight, makes it wear more the appearance of some theatrical exhibition than what it really is, the pursuit of industry which has fallen to the lot of the Honduras wood-cutter. " About the end of May the periodical rains again commence. The torrents of water discharged from the clouds are so s;reat as to render the roads impassable in the course of a few hours, when all trucking ceases ; the cattle are turned into the pasture, and the trucks, gear, and tools, etc., are housed. " The rain now pours down incessantly till about the middle of June, when the rivers swell to an immense height. The logs then float down a distance of 200 miles, being followed by the gangs in pitpans (a kind of flat-bottomed canoe) to disengage them from the branches of the overhanging trees, until they are stopped by a boom placed in some situation convenient to the mouth of the river. " Each gang then separates its own cutting by the mark on the ends of the logs, and forms them into large rafts, in which state they are brought down to the wharves of the proprietors, where they are taken out of the water, and undergo a second process of the axe to make the surface smooth. The ends, which frequently get split and rent by the force of the current, are also sawed off, when they are ready for shipping." The wages paid in Belize by the English cutters on the eastern coast of Yucatan do not vary much from Chap. XI.] precious woods. 179 the prices common in Honduras. A "gang" there is understood to comprehend a " captain" and fifty men, divided into thirty first class, ten second class, and ten third class. The captain receives from $30 to $45 per month, and the men $15, $12, and $10, according to their rank. The hunter for the gang has $15 per month, or most frequently is paid at from half a dollar to a dollar for each tree he finds, according to its size and value. The men here, as in Honduras, are sup- plied with tools and rations, and receive their pay in the same relative proportion of goods and money. Ai'ound Belize the mahogany-cutters are chiefly ne- groes, descendants of the slaves who were formerly em- ployed there. But in Honduras they are principally Caribs, who in activity and strength are said to excel the negroes ; they are also more intelligent, and require less care and superintendence. Many of them go an- nually to Belize, and hire themselves for the season, re- turning to their homes at its close. In reference to the mahogany trade of Honduras, as, indeed, in respect to every other branch of industry and commerce, we are absolutely without information both as to its amount and value. It may nevertheless be regarded as steadily increasing, and as promising to become every year more important as the supplies of wood from the islands and from the peninsula of Yu- catan diminish, and as the demand for it in the mar- kets of the world is augmented. The principal estab- lishments are now on the River Ulua and its branches, and on the Aguan, Black, and Patuca rivers. The other streams have been neglected, in consequence of the difiiculty of floating down the wood, as well as of embarking it on an unprotected shore. Besides the mahogany, Honduras supplies nearly ev- 180 EEPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. XI, erj other variety of wood common to the tropics, all of which are too well known to need more than an enumeration. Rosewood (Amyris Balsamifera^ L. ) is common on the northern coast, where it is beginning to become an article of commerce. Lignumvitse {JRham- nus Sarcomphalus^ L.) abounds in the valley of the Ulua, and on the banks of the rivers in the plain of Comayagua, and, no doubt, is common in all other parts of the state. Among the numerous dyewoods, or trees producing dyes, for which Honduras is famed, may be enumerated the Fustic [Morus Tinctoria^ L. ) ; Yellow Sanders {Santakim) ; Brazil-wood {^Cwsalpina Uchinata, 1j.) ; Dragon's-blood-tree (Pterocarpus Draco, L.) ; Nicara- gua-wood (a variety of Brazil-wood) ; and the Anotta [Bixa Orellana). Trees producing gums and medicines are not less numerous. The Gum Arabic bush {Acacia Arabica) abounds on all the open savannas on the Pacific slope. And in the forests may be found the Copaiba-tree [Co- paifera Officinalis, L.) ; the Copal -tree {Hedwigia Balsamifera) ; Liquid Amber {Styrax Officinalis) ; Palma Christi (Bicinus Communis) ; Ipecacuanha, and, finally, the Ule, Caoutchouc or India-rubber {Si- phonia Elastica). The latter is abundant in the low lands of both coasts. Small quantities are collected for sale by the Caribs on the Bay of Honduras, but it has as yet received very little attention. Among the common and most useful woods, the long-leaved or pitch pine deserves the first mention, not less on account of its excellent quality than its great abundance. It may almost be said to cover all the more elevated portions of Honduras, from one sea to the other. Upon the Pacific slope of the continent it Chap. XI.] precious woods. 181 makes its appearance on the liills and mountains at the height of about 1200 feet above the sea. Toward the interior it is found at lower elevations, and on the Atlantic declivity it is abundant nearly down to the sea level. I found it on the low hills bordering the great plain of Sula, on the west, at the height of 250 feet ; and it is well known that on the savannas bor- derins: the rivers and lao-oons to the eastward of Trux- illo, as well as on the Mosquito Shore, it is a character- istic feature. The trees do not grow closely together, but stand well apart, permitting the mountain grasses to grow beneath and around them, so that a pine for- est in the interior more resembles a well-kept park than the thickets to which we are accustomed to give the name of forest. The trees grow frequently to great size, but average about twenty inches in diameter. They are rich in pitch, and the wood is firm, heavy, and durable, and the heart is never attacked by insects. It furnishes, therefore, a cheap and convenient timber for all kinds of constructions in the country, as well for bridges as for buildings and for boats. Captain Henderson observes of the Honduras pine : "The tim- ber which it furnishes can scarcely be exceeded in size, and is generally considered, for every necessary purpose, greatly superior to what can be imported from the United States;" and Strangeways expresses the con- viction that the endless tracts of pine forest on the northern coast will ultimately come to fm^nish a large supply both of pitch, tar, and timber for the wants of commerce. The Ceclro^ or cedar ( Cedrela Oclorata^ L. ), ranks next to the pine in the list of common and useful ^voods. It is found in all the valleys, but more particularly in those of the principal rivers near the coasts. It attains 182 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. XI. the heio-ht of seventy or eighty feet, and a diameter of from fom- to seven feet. It is not attacked by insects, is light and easily worked, as well as ornamental in color and agreeable in smell. For these reasons, it is more extensively used than any other wood in Hondu- ras. It is now exported in small, but increasing quan- tities. Most of the canoes and pitpans of the natives are hollowed from the trunks of the cedro, and are both light and durable, but liable to be split in beaching. The Ceiba^ or- silk-cotton-tree {Bomhax Ceiha, L.), is abundant, and distinguished for its vast size, which leads to its common use for '''' bongos''' and '-'• pitpans.''' I have seen boats, hollowed from a single trunk, which would measure seven feet "in the clear" between the sides. This tree blossoms two or three times a year, when its carnation flowers give a bloom to an entire forest. It produces a pod containing a kind of downy fibre or cotton, which is sometimes used to stuff cush- ions and pillows, and may possibly be made useful for other purposes. In addition to these woods, all of those enumerated below are more or less abundant, and fitted for use, viz. : Live-oak [Bignonia) ; Santa Maria ; Sum wood ; Sapodillo {Achras Sapota) ; Mangrove {Bizop)liora Mangle) ; Mangrove Grape-tree ( Coccoloha Uvifera) ; Iron-wood {Syderoxylum) ; Calabash ( Crescentia) ; But- ton-wood or Mangle Saragoza ; Mohoe [Althosa ruce- mosa) ; Locust {Hymencjea Courbaril) ; Pole-wood ; Al- mond or Ahnendrillo ; various kinds of Oak ; Grana- diWo (Brya Ehanus) ; many varieties of Palms; Zapote {Sap)ote Maminosa\ etc., etc. Apart from the lime, lemon, orange, and palm trees, there is a great variety of trees bearing fruits which are indigenous in the country. The cacao is one of Chap. XI.] vegetable products. 183 these, and is remarkably abundant on the northern al- luvions, where the natives draw their entire supplies from the forests. It is known there as the Cacao Mico, monkey or Avild cacao, and is distinguished from the cultivated variety by having larger nuts, and, it is claim- ed, a finer flavor. The pimiento-tree, closely resem- bling the Jamaica "allspice" (Myrtus Pmienta), is also indigenous. Its berry is somewhat larger than the va- riety found in the islands, but weaker in its aroma, and has not }'et entered into the commerce of the country. The Anona, of several varieties, is also indigenous ; the Aguacate, or Alligator Pear {Persea Gratimimp) ; Citron [Citrus Tuherosa) ; Tamarind (Tamarindus Oc- ciaentalis); Gu£iVSU"(Psidium Guajavas); Pines {Bro- melia Ananas) ; Mango (Mangofera Domestica) ; Pa- paya {Carica Papaya) ; Zapote ; Granado {Punica Granatum) ; Mamay {Lucuma Bomplandi) ; Nance ; Jocote, or wild Plum ; Manzanilla, etc., etc. The sarsaparilla (Sniilax Medicinal) is probably pro- duced nowhere in the world of better quality or in greater abundance than in Honduras^ but more partic- ularly on its northern and eastern coasts. It is wholly collected by the Indians, but never in greater quanti- ties than may be necessary to procure, by exchange, such articles of Euroj^ean manufactm^e as they may happen to require. It might be systematically obtain- ed in quantities to meet every demand of commerce. The vanilla {Epidendrum Vanilla) occurs in the same district with the sarsaparilla, and is remarkable for its luxuriance and the size of its pods. It has not yet be- come an article of export, but the specimens Avhich have been sen.t to the United States and Europe have al- ready elicited orders beyond the capacity of the avail- able labor of the coast to supply. \ 184 REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. [ChAP. XI. The Pita, called in Mexico Ixtle, is a variety of the agave, very prolific, and yielding fibres varying in qual- ity from the coarsest hemp to the finest flax. It is used for the manufacture of thread, cordage, hammocks, jDaper, etc., and, being hardy and easily cultivated, may be made an important article of export as well as of domestic use. I have already said that Honduras produces freely all the great staples of the tropics. The lands upon both coasts are well ada23ted for cotton, which, how- ever, is not now produced, except in small quantities at a. ^ASfi-points by the Indians, for their own peculiar manufactures. The experiments which have been made in the production of this staple, bo