m m "1^ ' fV THE TIUYELER'S GUIDE TO TUB HUDSON RIVER, :^.ARATOGA SPRINGS, LAKE GEORGE, FALLS OF NIAGARA AND THOUSAND ISLANDS; M N T REAL, QUEBEC, AAD THE SAGUENAY RIVER; . ALSO, TO THE GREEN AiND WHITE MOUNTAINS, AND OTHER ?ARTS OF NEW ENGLAND; FORMING THE FASHIONABLE NORTHEIIN TOUR THROTTGn TUB UNITED STATES AND CANADA. WITH MAP AND EMBELLISHMENTS. COMPILED BY J. DISTUMELL ^ •Mcb Yorft: PUBLISHED BY THE "AMERICAN NEWS COMPANY," 121 NASSAU STEEET; A»D FOR Sale by A. WILLIAMS & CO., Boston ; DAWSON & BROTHER, Montreal ; and by Booksellekb generally. ^.^, f^ 0.^ Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by JOHN DI8TUENELL, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for i Bouthern District of New York. 186? DAVIE8 AND EOBEKTB, BTEREOTTPEKS, 113 Nassau-st., K Y. TO THE READER, The arrangement of the Picturesque Tourist will be found to differ, in some respects, from works of the same The general object of this book is to furnish a convenient and faithful guide for strangers, whether traveling on busi- ness, or for pleasure, pr health, through the northern section of the United States and the Canadas. The city of New York, as being the principal commercial emporium in the country, and the chief center of resort, in the first instance, for distant travelers, whether native or foreign, is chosen as the point from which the tourist is sup- posed to commence his excursion. Starting thence, this Guide will conduct him along the principal lines of travel North and West. Northward he will proceed up the Hudson River, through the flourishing cities at the head of navigation, to the famous Springs at Ballston and Saratoga — thence to Lake George, and by the way of Lake Champlain into • Canada. Westward, over the line of the jXew York Central Railroad, through the rich midland and western counties of the State of New York, to Niagara Falls and Buffalo — thence northerly ^V TO THE READER. through Canada, passing over Lake Ontario and down the St. Lawrence to Montreal, Quebec, and the Saguenay River,— returning by the way of the White Mountains of New Hamp- shire, Portland, Boston, etc. ; or by the more direct route lia Lake Champlain, Lake George, and Saratoga Springs to Troy and Albany— noticing, on each route, the places and scenery most worthy of the attention of the tourist, either for mem- orable events or for local attractions, and aiming, in the ac- counts of them, more at simple accuracy than at embellished description. Such are the scope and design of this Traveler's Guide. J ^ New Yobk, June, 1864. CONTENTS. Page Table of Distances, etc., from the city of New York to the principal Cities in the Northern States and Canada. 13 New York and Harlem Railroad Route 15 Hudson River Railroad Route 17 Tour from New York to Albany, Troy, etc., via Hud- son River 19 Jersey City — Hoboken— Weehawken — Manhattanville. . . 20 Fort Washington — Fort Lee— Palisades— Spuy ten Duyvel Creek 21 Yonkers — Hastings — Dobbs' Ferry — Piermont 22 Tappan Bay — Irvington — Tarry town 23 Nyack — Rockland Lake— Sing-Sing 24 Croton, or Teller's, Point — Haverstraw — Verplanck's Point 25 Caldweirs Landing — Peekskill 27 Mahopac Lake — Fort Independence — Highlands 28 West Point— U. S. Military Academy 29 Coldspring— Beacon Hill • • • • 31 Crow's Nest — Cornwall — Newburgh 32 Fishkill— Matteawan — Glenham 33 New Hamburgh — Milton — Poughkeepsie 34 New Paltz — Hyde Pai'k 35 Esopus Meadows — Rondout — Kingston 36 Rhinebeck — Barry town 37 Tivoli — Saugerties — Catskill . , 38 Catskill Mountain House — Pine Orchard 39 City of Hudson 40 Columbia Springs 41 New Lebanon Springs — Cossackie 42 Stuy vesant — Coeymans — Overslaugh 43 City of Albany 44 New York Central Kailroad. 47 VI CONTENTS. Page Albany Ninety Years Since 49 City of Troy— West Troy 50 Lansingburgh — Waterford — Cohoes Falls 53, 54 HuDsoiv River Steamboats 55 • Clermont, or Experiment Boat 57 Tour to Saratoga Springs, Lake George, etc. : Railroad Routes — Ballston Spa 59 Saratoga Springs '60 Analysis of the Principal Springs 61-69 Route to Lake George, Lake Champlain, etc 70 Western Tour : City of Schenectady 71 Amsterdam — Fonda — Johnstown — Palatine Bridge 73 Sharon Springs 74 Cooperstown — Richfield Springs 75 Fort Plain— St. Johnsville— Little Falls 76 West Canada Creek — Herkimer — Mohawk 77 City of Utica 78 Trenton Falls 79 Whitesborough — Oriskany 81 Rome — Oneida Depot— Canastota 82 Chittenango — Cazenovia — Syracuse 83 Geddes — Liverpool — Onondaga Salt Springs 84 Camillus — Jordan — Skaneateles — Auburn 86 Weedsport — Port Byron — Montezuma 87 Cayuga Lake 88 Cayuga Village — Springport :' 89 Levanna — Aurora 90 Sheldrake Point— Ithaca 91 L\KEs OF Western New York : Oneida Lake — Onondaga Lake 92 Otisco Lake— Cayuga Lake — Seneca Lake 93 Canandaigua Lake 94 Crooked Lake — Chautauque Lake 95 Seneca Falls 96 Waterloo —Geneva 97 Clyde— Lyons 98 Newark— Palmyra— Clifton Springs 99 Canandaigua — Rochester 100 Avon Springs 103 Batavia— Attica — Brockport 104 Albion— Medina— Lockport 105 Niagara Falls 1 06 City of Buffalo 107 CONTENTS. Vll Page Buffalo to Niagara Falls, Toronto, etc. : Fort Erie— Grand Island— Navy Island— Chippewa- Falls of Niagara— Clifton— Queenston— Brock's Monu- ment—Niagara — Fort George 109-113 SfiAGARA River : Its Rapids, Falls, Islands, and Romantic Scenery- Grand Island— Tonawanda— Iris, or Goat Isiand 114-118 Cataract of Niagara : American Fall— Canadian, or Horse Shoe, Fall— ?-ispen- sion Bridge— Whirlpool and Rapids— Maid of the Mist- Niagara Falls Village— Lewiston—Youngstown 119-126 Lake Ontario : Beautiful Mirage, Route, etc 1^' > l-o Steamboat Routes: Lake Ontario and River St. Lawrence Steamers 129, 160 Prip from Levtiston to Oswego, Kingston, and Og- densburgh : Fort Niagara— Charlotte, or Port Genesee— Genesee River- Great Sodus Bay— Little Sodus Bay— Oswego. 131-138 Railroad and Steamboat Route from Syracuse to Niagara Falls, via Oswego 139 Oswego to Kingston, Ogdensburgk, etc. : Port Ontario— Salmon River- Sacket's Harbor— Black River — Chaumont Bay — Cape Vincent — Clayton, or French, Creek— Alexandria Bay— Well's Island- Mor- ristown — Ogdensburgh 140-144 Trip from Niagara and Hamilton to Toronto and Kingston, Canada : Port Dalhousie— Welland Canal— St. Catherine's— Ham- ilton— Oakville— Port Credit — Toronto — Oshawa— Port Hope— Cobourg— Duck Island— Amherst Island — Kingston 145-154 Kingston to Belleville and Port Trenton : Bay of Quinte— Fredericksburg— Picton— Belleville- Port Trenton— River Trent— Rice Lake 155-157 List of American and British Steamers 158-161 Canals or Canada— Trade and Navigation 160-102 Trip from Kingston to Montreal : Thousand Islands— Wolfe, or Grand, Island— Gage Isl- and— Howe Island— Carlton Island— Grindstone Island- Admiralty Islands— Amateur Islands— Brockville— Pres- c-ott- Ogdensburgh— Windmill Point— Gallop Rapids- Matilda — Waddington — Williamsburg — Louisville — Vlll CONTENTS. Page Long Saut Rapids— Cornwall — St. Regis— Lake St. Fran- cis - Coteau du Lac — Cedar Rapids — Beauiiarnois — Caughnawaga — ^La Chine Rapids — St. Lawrence River and Rapids 163-176 Railroad Route from Montreal, to Toronto, via Grand Trunk Railway : * St. Anne's— Lsle Perot— Vaudreuil — Cornwall, etc. . .177-179 Montreal : Grand Trunk Railway, etc 180-185 Trip from Montreal to Ottawa City, etc. : St. Anne's — Lake of the Two Mountains — Carillon — Point Fortune— Grenville—Rideau Falls — Chaudiere Falls- City of Ottawa— Ay Imer—Arnprior— Pembroke 186-190 Ottawa River : Chaudiere Falls, etc 191-196 Lakk George : Caldwell— Falls of Ticonderoga, etc 197-200 Lake Champlain: Mississquoi Bay, etc , . 201-203 List of Steamers running on Lake Champlain — Table of Distances — Whitehall, etc 204-206 Trip fkom Whitehall to Rouse's Point, etc. : Ticonderoga — Crown Point — Port Henry — Westport — Fort Cassin — Split Rock — Essex— Burlington— Port Kent — Keeseville — Au Sable River — Port Jackson — Platt^bukgh — Battle of Plattsburgh - Cumberland Head — Chazy — Isle au Motte — Alburgh — Highgate Springs— Nississquoi Bay — Rouse's Point -St. John's, Canada — Chambly Canal 207-230 Table of Distances : Montreal to Albany, Portland, Quebec, Toronto, etc 231, 232 Trip from Montreal to Qukbec : LongueuJl - Rapids of St. Mary — Varennes— Sorel, or William Ileury— Lake St. Peter— Three Rivers — Riche- lieu Rapids— Cape Rouge— Wolfe's Cove 233-237 Qctkbec : The Citadel— Plains of Abraham— Wolfe's Monument — Gen. Montgomery 237-246 ViciNirY OF Quebec : Cape Rouge— Falls of Lorette— Falls of Montmorenci — Falls of St. Anne— Lake St. Charles— Point Levi — Chaudiere Falls 247-250 CONTENTS. IX Page Trip from Quebec to the Saguenay River, etc. : Island of Orleans— St. Patrick's Hole— Madam Island— Cape Tourment— Grosse Island — St. Thomas— Crane Island — Isle aux Coudres —Murray Bay — Kamouraska — Red Island — River dii Loup— Kakouna—Tadousac.. 251-259 Saguenay Rtver : Tote du Boule— St. Louis Island — Eternity Point and Cape Tiinity— Tableau— Ha-Ha, or Great Bay — Chicou- timi— Lake St. John 260-265 Trip to Murray Bay, Tadousac, Ha-Ha Bay, etc.. 266-268 Anticosti : Gulf of St. Lawrence, etc 269-27 1 Kailroad and Steamboat Routes 272 Grand Pleasure Ext;uRSiON : New York to Niagara Falls, Toronto, Montreal, etc. 273-275 Trip from Montreal to Quebec and Return 276-279 Montreal to Boston and Neav York 280, 281 Routes of Travel from Montreal to Boston and New York 281 Route from Montreal and Quebec to the White Mountains, and Portland, Me 282 White Mountains of New Hampshire 283-286 Height of the Principal Mountains 287 Routes to Lake Winnipisiogee and the White Mountains . 288 Portland, City of 288-289 Railway Stations in Boston 290 Railroad Routes Diverging from Boston 291-293 Steamboat and Railroad Routes from New York to the White Mountains 294 Advertisements . . » 295 LIST OF ADVERTISEMENTS. Pagfl New York and Albany Steamers (People's) Evening Line. 295 New York and Troy Steamers, Evening Line 296 New York and Albany Steamers, Morning Line 297 New York, Stonington, and Boston Line Steamers 298 Lake George Steamer 299 Lake Champlain Steamers 300 Lake Ontario and St. Lawrence Steamers 301 Lake Huron and Superior Line Steamers 302 Ottawa Elver Mail Steamers 303 Montreal and Quebec Steamers — Saguenay River 304 New York Central Railroad Lines to Buffalo, Niagara Falls, etc 305 Albany and Troy to Saratoga Springs, Montreal, etc 306 Albany and Troy to Rutland, Burlington, Montreal, etc. 307 Great Western Railway of Canada 308 Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, etc 309 Sea-Bathing Pleasure Excursions 311 Boston to Portland via Eastern Railroad 312 Boston to Portland via Boston and Maine Railroad 313 Boston to the Green and White Mountains, Montreal, etc., via Vermont Central Railroad 314 Boston to Portland, Eastport, and St. Johns, N. B., via International Line Steamers 315 Hotels in the City of New York 11 ** Saratoga Springs, etc 318 " Lake George 319 ** Montreal, Quebec, Ottawa City, etc 320 " Boston 322 Congress Spring Water, Saratoga Springs 323 Empire Spring Water, " " 324 PEI^^CIPAL HOTELS IX THE CITY OF NEW TOM. Name. Propiiet'us. Lcicatuin. AsTOR House Stetson «Sz; Co Broadway, cor. Yt sey St. Bancroft House M. L. & A. W. Bordwell.Broadway, cor. 20th St. Bond Street House. . .Charles Plinta 665 Broadway. Brandreth House* J. Curtis & Co. Broadway, cor. Canal St Brevoort House* Albert Claru 11 Fifth Avenue. Clarendon Kerner & Birch 62 Union Place. Commercial Hotel 73 C'irtlandt St. Cortlandt St. Hotel. . 28 Corilandt St. Dey Street House* . . .Charles W. Clickencr. . .54, 56, and 58 Dey St. Earl's Hotel Canal St. cor. Centre. Everett House 4th Avenue, cor. 17th St Fifth Avenue HoTEL..Hitchcock,Darling& Co.192 Fifth Avenue. French's Hotel* Chatham St., op. C. Hall. GiRARD House* Smith & Willard 129 Chambers St, Howard Hotel Lynde & Lamb B'way, cor. Maiden Lane International Hotel* William H. Gilson Broadway, cor. Franklin Lafarge Hou.se. Henry Wheeler 673 Broadway. [St. LiBBY House M.Martin 58 Warren St, Lovejot's Hotel* 84 Park Eow. Manhattan Hotel N. Huggins Murray St., near B'way. Merchants' Hotel . . . Oa'ke & Schenck 37, 39, &41 Cortlandt St. Metropolitan Hotel. S. Leland & Co 580 Broadway. National Hotel Jesse Foster 8, 5, & 7 Cortlandt St. New York Hotel Hiram Cranston 721 Broadway. Pacific Hotel. 172 Greenwich St. Park Hotel Cor. Beekman & Nassau. Powers' Hotel 17 and 19 Park Row. Prescott House Frederick Diez B'dway, cor Spring St Spingler House E. E. Balcom 5 and 7 Union Squara St. NicnoiAs Hotel.. .SpoUs & Hawk Broadway. Stevens' House* Lyman Fisk 25 Broadway. United States Cor. Fulton & Water sts. Washington Hotel* . . 1 Broadway. Western Hotel D. D. Winchester 9 Cortlandt St. * Kept on the European Plan. RAILROAD DEPOTS IX THE CITY OF XEW YOPiK. rNew York, New Haven, and Boston Pt.R. Depot, Fourth Ave- nue, corner 27th Street. New York a,nd Harlern, to AlbanA"-, etc., Fourth Avenue, cor- ner 26th Street. Hudson River Raikoad Depot, Warren Street, and 30th Street. Erie Railroad, to Dunkirk, etc., foot Chambers Street. Atlantic and Great Western, " " " New Jersey Railway, to Philadelphia, etc., foot of Cortlandt Street. New Jersey Central, to Easton. etc., foot of Cortlandt Street. Pennsylvania Central Railroad, " " *' Slorris & Essex Railroad, foot of Barclay Street. Flushing and New York Railroad, James Slip and Hunter's Point, L. I. Long Island Railroad, James Slip and Hunter's Point, L. I. Lines of Steamers conaiec^in^ with ^lallroads* Fall River Line Steamers, Pier No. 3, North River. Stonington Line Steamers, foot of Cortlandt Street. Norwich Line Steamers, Pier No. 39, North River. New Haven & Hartford Line, Peck Slip, East River, Albany Morning Line, foot of Desbrosses Street, North River Albany Evening Line (People's), foot Cortlandt St., " '* Troy Evening Line, foot of Liberty Street, " " New'iurgh and Poughkeepsie Line, foot of Jay Street, North River. Camden & Amboy Line, foot of Barclay Street, North River. 15 45 81 1 15 58 2 80 88 4 80 TABLE OF DISTANCES, ETC., FROM THE CITY OF NEW YOEK TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES IN THE MIDDLE, NORTHERN, AND EASTERN STATES, AND CANADA. Routes. Miles. H. M. Nbw Yokk to Newark, N. J., i>ia New Jersey Railroad. . . 9 80 Elizabethtown, " " New Brunswick, " " Tbenton, " " Philadelphia, via Phil, and Trenton R. E Wilmington, Del., via Phil, and Bait R. R. 116 6 SO Havre de Grace, Md., " " " 150 8 00 Baltimore. . ' '• " " 186 9 80 Washington, D. C, via Bait, and Ohio E. E. 225 11 30 N"ew Yoek to Hareisbttrg, Pa., via Philadelphia 194 9 00 Altoona, Pa., via Pennsylvania K. E 324 15 00 Pittsburgh, Pa., '' " 441 20 80 Cleveland, 0., wa Pittsburgh. 5S0 25 00 Nbw York to Goshen, via New York and Erie E. E 60 8 15 PortJervis, " " •' 89 4 00 Deposit, " " " 178 7 80 Great Bend, Pa., " " " 201 8 SO BiNGHAMTON, " " " 216 9 00 Owego, " " " 2;^ 9 46 Elmira, " " " 274 11 00 Corning. " " " 292 11 45 Hornellsville, " « " 383 18 80 ' Buffalo, via Buffalo Division 424 18 00 Dunkirk, via New York and Erie E. E 460 19 00 Cleveland. O., via Dunkirk 602 26 00 Cincinnati, O., via Cleveland 857 34 00 Chicago, IU., via Cleveland and Toledo .... 957 87 00 H"ew York to Poughkeepsie, via Hudson River R. R 75 2 45 Hudson, " " " 116 4 00 Albany. " " " 144 6 00 Schenectady, t!ta New York Central R. R... 161 6 30 Utioa, " " ^' .. 239 9 80 Rome, « " " .. 253 10 20 Syracuse, " " " .. 292 12 00 Oswego, " " " .. 827 13 80 Rochester, " " " .. 373 15 15 Batavia, " " " .. 406 16 20 Buffalo, « " " .. 442 17 30 Lockport, « " " .. 429 17 00 Niagara Falls, " " " .. 447 18 00 Hamilton. Ca., via Great Western E. E 490 21 00 ToROxNTO, " " " " .... 528 23 00 Detroit, Mich., " " " .... 677 28 00 Chicago, 111., via Michigan Central E. E.. . . 960 87 uO JTr V York to Albany, via Hudson Elver E. E 144 5 00 Troy, " '• '■ 150 5 15 Saratoga Springs, via Albany and Troy 133 7 30 Lake George, via Saratoga Springs 211 10 OC 2 14 TABLE OF DISTANCES, ETC. KooTKs. Miles. Nkw Yoek to Whitehall, via Saratoga & "Whitehall E. E. 223 Burlington, via Lake Champlain 300 Plattsburgh, " " 325 Eouse's Point, " " 350 Montreal. Ca., via Cham, and St. Law. E.K. 395 Nbw Yoek to Chatham Four Corners, N. Y. & Harlem E.E. 130 Albany, •' - " 152 Trot, " " " 158 N. Bennington, Vt, via Troy & Boston E. E. 190 EUTLAND, •' " •' " 242 Burlington " via Eutland & Bur. E.E. 809 Eouse's Point, via, Vermont «fe Canada E. E. 864 Montreal, Ca., via Cham. & St. Law. E. E. 408 Nbw Yobk to New Haven, Conn., via Eailroad 76 Hartford " " 112 Springfield Mass., " 188 Boston, via Western Eailroad *. 236 Greenfield, via Connecticut Eiver E. E 174 Bellows Falls, Vt., " •' " 222 Windsor, " " " " 248 White Eiver Junction, via Verm. Cent. E. E. 262 Wells' Eiver, via Conn. & Pass. Eiver E. E. 302 White Mountains, N. H., via White Mount- ain Eailroad 842 Nbw Yoek to New London, Conn., via Steamer 115 Norwich. " " 127 WoRCESTEE, Mass, via Steamer and Eailroad 186 Boston, " " " 281 Nashua N. H.. via Wor. and Nashua E. E.. 232 Manchester, N. H., via Concord Eailroad. . . 249 Concord, " " •• . . . 267 Wier's Station N. H. (Lake Winnipisseogee) 300 Plymouth N. H., via Boston Con. & Mont. Eailroad 318 Wells' Eiver, Vt.. via Boston. Con., & Mont. Eailroad 860 Littleton. N. H.. via White Mountain E E . 380 White Mountains N. H.. via Stage 400 Netw Yoek to Stonington Conn, via Steamer . 125 Providence, E. I., via Steamer and Eailroad 175 Boston, *• '* 218 Lawrence. Mass., via Boston & Maine E. E. 244 Dover, N. H.. '• " " 286 Portland, Me. « " " 830 South Paris, Me., via Grand Trunk Eailway 378 Gorham N. H., " '• " 421 White Mountains, N. H., w'a Stage 428 Nbw Yoek to Newport E. I., via Steamer 160 Fall Eiver, Mass. " 178 New Bedford, via Steamer and Eailroad 204 Boston. " " 232 Salem Mass. via Eastern Eailroad 248 Newburyport, ' " 268 Portsmouth. N. H., " 288 Portland, Me. " " 839 Augusta, •' via Kennebec & Portl. E. E. 899 Banqob, ♦* t?ta Penobscot jfcKenn. E.E. 469 NEW YORK AND HARLEM RAILROAD ROUTE. Depot, cokner 4th Avenue and 26th Street, New York. This Railroad extends from the station in Centre Street, and runs through Broome Street, the Bowery, and Fourth Avenue to the outer depot, corner Twenty-sixth Street ; at Thirty-second Street it enters the deep cutting into the solid rock, at Murray Hill, which is covered over to Forty-first Street, and then pro- ceeds to YoRKViLLE, 5 miles, where is a tunnel under Prospect Hill, which is about 600 feet long, 24 feet wide, and 21 high, cut through solid rock ; from thence it runs through Harlem, 7 miles, crossing Harlsm River over a substantial bridge, enter- ing the county of Westchester at Mott Haven, where is a thriving settlement, and several extensive manufacturing estab- lishments. MoRRisANiA, ten miles, is a continuous settlement, which may justly be considered as the suburbs of New York. Here is a population of about 5,000, most of whom are connected with business in the city. FoRDHAM, 12 miles, is another village pleasantly situated on the line of the railroad. Here is located St. John's College, a Roman Catholic institution, standing on a slight eminence called Rose Hill. Thus far there is almost a continuous settlement on both sides the railroad, affording many delightful sites for suburban residences. Williams' Bridge, 14 miles from New York, lying on the west bank of a small stream called Bronx River, is the station from whence diverges the JVew York and JVew Haven Rail' road, extending eastwardly 76 miles to New Haven, Conn. This road forms in part the great railroad route from New York to Hartford, Springfield, Boston, etc. White Plains, 26 miles from the city, is a handsome village situated near the spot where was fought a sanguinary battle during the war of the Revolution, when this section of country was considered the neutral ground, extending north from King's Bridge, over the Harlem River, to Verplank's Point, near Peekskill. This quiet village is now the county seat of West- chester County, and contains besides the public buildings many handsome edifices, and several flourishing institutions of learn- 16 NEW YORK AND HARLEM RAILROAD ROUTE. ing — this section of country, extending northward through the counties of Westchester and Putnam, being considered extremely healthy, abounding in pure water, and blessed with an invigor- ating climate Ckotoiv Falls, 51 miles, is situated on Croton River, above the dam and reservoir fi'om which the city of New York is supplied with pure and wholesome water. Here is a small vil- lage surrounded by hills extending northward through Putnam County. Passengers bound for Lahe Mahopac, a few miles westward, here leave the cars and proceed by stage. Dover Plains, 80 miles from New York, is pleasantly situ- ated in the east part of Dutchess County, about 20 miles from Poughkeepsie. The surrounding country is hilly, while on the east lies the range of high hills dividing the waters of the Hud- son from those of the Housatonic Pviver. Amenia, 88 miles from New York, is a small village, sur- rounded by hills and some good land. Boston Corners, 103 miles from New York, now attached to Columbia County, N. Y., formerly belonged to Massachxisetts. Here the Taghkanic Mountains on the east rise to a considerable height, being a spur of the Green Mountains of Vermont, run- ning south through Dutchess and Putnam counties to the Hud- son River, there being termed the " Highlands," or Matteawan Mountains. This range of mountains or highlands forms the dividing ridge between the waters that flow east into Long Island Sound from those flowing west into the Hudson River ; in an extended point of view running from Westchester County to the confines of Canada. Chatham Four Corners, 131 miles fi'om New York, is the present terminus of the New York and Harlem Railroad. The Lebanon Springs Railroad, when finished, will extend north to the Vermont State Line. Through this village runs the Albany and West Stockbridge Railroad, forming a branch of the WesU ein Railroad of Massachusetts ; also, the Hudson and Boston Railroad, run by the above company, thus forming direct and speedy routes of travel from Albany and Hudson to Springfield, Worcester, Boston, etc Over the Albany and West Stockbridge Railroad passengers are now conveyed from Chatham Four Corners to Albany, a far- ther distance of 22 miles ; making a total distance from New York to Albany by this route of 153 miles. At East Albany it connects with the great lines of travel North to Saratoga and Montreal, and West to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. For Table of Distances, etc., see pages 13 and 14. HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD ROUTE. Dep6t, cob. Warren St. and College Place, New York. This important Railroad extends through Hudson Street, Canal Street, and West Street, to the outer depot at Thirty-first Street ; from thence it runs along the west shore of the island of New York to Manhattanville, 8 miles. Here is a village surrounded by high and picturesque grounds, where are located many handsome private edifices. Fort Washington, about 9 miles from the city, stands on elevated gi-ound, commanding a fine view of the Hudson and East rivers, and the surrounding country. In this vicinity the rock excavation is over a quarter of a mile in length, on the lino of the railroad, the cutting being between 40 and 50 feet deep for a considerable distance. Here, also, at Fort Washing- ton Point, is erected a telegraph pole, from which extends sev- eral wires across the Hudson Hiver, to the Palisades on the Jersey shore, above Fort Lee. Spuytkn Duyvel Creek, 13 miles from Chambers Street, is a continuation or branch of Harlem River, dividing the island of New York from Westchester County. Here is a draw-bridge for the convenience of navigation — this stream being susceptible of improvement so as to allow vessels to pass through into the East Kiver or Long Island Sound, going through Hell- Gate. YoNKKRS, 17 miles from New York, is delightfully situated on the east bank of the Hudson, here doubly interesting from its romantic and picturesque beauties. The bold and abrupt eminence called the *' Palisades"' stands on the Jersey side, wliile the hilly and rolling country of the opposite side, where runs the line of the railroad, gives a great charm to this local- ity The village contains many fine residences, several churches, hotels, and stores. It may be regarded as a suburb, as most of its inhabitants are connected with business in the city of New York. Hastings, 20 miles; Dobbs' Ferry, 22 miles; Irvington, 25 miles, and Tarrytown, 27 miles from New York, may all be justly considered as suburban villages, most of their inhab- itants being closely connected in business pursuits with the city of New York. ]8 HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD ROUTE. SiN-G Sing, 32 miles, is another handsomely situated and healthy location, being closely connected with the city of New York, both by water and railroad communication. The ^j'lng Siuic State Prison, located here, contains about 1,000 inmat(^. Pefkskill, 44 miles, is another romantic and thnvmg vil- lage, lying in the immediate vicinity of the Hudson River and "HjV///anrfs." The latter here assumes a mountam-like ap- pearance, running northward for several miles, through wh^ch the river finds a tortuous passage, passing West Point, 5-^ miles; Cor.D Spring, 52 miles, to Fishkill Landing. bU miles north of New York. Here is a steam ferry, connecting Fishkill with Newburgh on the opposite shore. On winding through the "Highlands," several tunnels are entered ana passed in quick succession, giving the traveler a vivid i^ea ot the uneven and rocky section through which the track ot tue railroad passes. At one time water may be seen on both sides the track, when the next moment the fierce locomotive plunges out of sight under a mountain brow— with the majestic Hudson on the one side, and the frowning hills or mountains on the op- posite side, rising from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above the water s edge. The longest tunnel on the route occurs a short distance above Fishkill. , -xt v i ^^ The City of Poughkeepsie, 75 miles above New York and 70 miles below Albany, situated on east side of the Hudson, is a large and growing place, where the passenger trains ot cars usually stop for a few minutes, affording an opportunity to partake of a hasty meal. ., m iaa Hyde Park, 81 miles; Rhinebkck, 91 miles; Tivoli, IW miles; Oak Hill, opposite Catskill, 110 miles, are speedily reached and passed by the ascending train of cars, affording tbe traveler a grand view of the Catskill Mountains on the oppo- site side of the river. j on f ^ The City of Hudson, 116 miles from New York and 29 from Albany, is an old and interesting locality, being favorably situated at the head of ship navigation on the river, ihe Hud- SiM and Boston Railroad extends eastward from this place to the New York State Line, connecting with the Western i?ai7r(;at/ of Massachusetts. CoxsACKiE Station, 123 miles; Stuyvesant, 12b miles; ScHODACK, 133 miles; Castleton, 136 miles, and Last Al- BANY, 144 miles, are the next stations reached. At the latter passengers alight for Albany-crossing the Hudson River in a steam ferry— while those going to Tkoy, 6 miles farther, or are bound northward, remain in the cars, soon arriving at the iat- ^ For ^further information, see Albany and Troy, described in another part of this work. TOUR FROM KEW YORK TO ALBAiNY, TROY, ETC., VIA HUDSON RIVER. During the season of navigation on the Hudson, which usu- ally extends from about the 20th of March to the fore part of December, numerous steamboats leave the city of New York every morning and evening, for various places on both shores of the river. The boats of the largest class, nowhere excelled for comfort and speed, run through to Albany and Troy, about 150 miles, in ten to twelve hours running time ; others touch at the principal villages on the way, to land and receive passen- gers. Usual fare through, $2 00, including berths in the night boats. To the traveler for pleasure and health, the day boats are the most desirable, particularly in hot weather, when a nighfa confinement in a crowded cabin is very oppressive ; and they furnish a fine opportimity to enjoy the varied and beautiful scenery of this noble river. The panoramic view on leaving the city is extensive and grand. Seaward it embraces parts of Long Island and Statcn Island, with the " Narrows ;" the spacious Bay of New York, studded with Governor's, Bedlow's, and Ellis's islands : the Jersey shore on the west, with its settlements and cultivated fields ; and on the east the city itself, with its long ranges of wharves and shipping, its spires, and its masses of architecture ; and as the boat rounds out upon the bosom of the majestio 20 NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. river, and springs forward on her upward course, the view, crowded with striking contrasts and full of life and action, is one of rare beauty and interest. Jersey City, opposite the lower part of New York, and Ho- BOKEN, a mile north, are seen to great advantage as the steam- boat leaves the wharf. At the former place commences the J\^ew Jersey Railroad and the J\^ew York and Erie Railroad. The latter place is a delightful and favorite resort of the citi- zens of New York during the warm summer season, when the commodious steam ferry-boats are crowded every afternoon with parties of both sexes, seeking refreshment from the heated and thronged streets of the city, in that charming retreat. Weehawken, on the Jersey shore, north of Hoboken, and 8 miles from New York, a high, wooded cliff, with its bold, rocky bluffs partly vailed with trees and partly bare, and a handsome villa on its summit, is one of the finest points in the Bcene as you move up the river. At the foot of this cliff, and on the margin of the river, a small obelisk of white marble for many years marked the spot where Alexander Hamilton fell in his fatal duel with Aaron Burr, on the 12th July, 1804. The monument, however, has long since been removed. Bull's Ferry, 2 to 3 miles farther north, on the same shore, is a place of considerable resort, being connected with the city by a steam ferry. Bloomingdale, on York Island, 5 miles from the City Hall, is a scattered settlement, in which the most prominent object is the Orphan Asylum, which, as seen from the river, with its green lawn extending to the water's edge, and surrounded by a fine grove, presents a pleasing aspect. About 3 miles farther up the island, or 8 miles from the City Hall, is the Lunatic Asylum, a stately pile standing on elevated ground. The next conspicuous object on the island, and visible from the Hudson, is Manhattanville, about a mile and a half east of which, toward the East River and near Hell-Gate, la the village of Harlem. NEW TORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. 21 Fort "Washington, 2 miles north of Manhattanville, is ele- vated 238 feet above the river, being the highest point on the island of New York. The old fort was captured by the British and Hessians, in the disastrous campaign of 1776, when some two or three thousand Americans were either killed or taken captive, and thrown into the prison-ships at the Wallabout Bay, Brooklyn, where the United States now have an extensive Na.vy Yard. Fort Lee, on the Jersey shore, 10 miles from New York, is a place of considerable interest, and between it and that city a steam ferry-boat plies daily. The site of the old fort is on the brow of the Palisades, a short distance from the river, and ele- vated about 300 feet above it. It was surrendered to the British in 1776, immediately after the capture of Fort Wash- ington. The Palisades, the most striking and peculiar feature of the scenery on either side of the Hudson, commence a little north of Weehawken, and on the same shore. This descriptive designation has been given to a mnjestic range of columnar rock, varying in height from 100 feet to 350 feet, and walling in the Hudson as far as Piermont, a distance of 20 ifliles. Just above Fort Lee, they rise almost perpendicularly from the water's edge ; and as the channel of the river, for the whole 20 miles, runs near the west side and along the base of these ma- jestic cliffs, they are seen to great advantage from the deck of the passing steamboat. Spuyten Duyvel Creek flows into the Hudson 18 miles north of the City Hall of New York, and connects with the Harlem River on the east, thus separating the island of New York from Westchester County. It is crossed by the track of the Hudson River Railroad, where is a draw-bridge. Kings- bridge, on the great post-road from New York to Albany, crosses this creek about a mile from its mouth, near which, on the north bank, is the site of old Fort Independence. Here commences a succession of beautifully situated country red- dences, looking out upon the river, and across it to the PaU- 22 NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. sades ; the shore itself being marked by a succession of narrow valleys and ridges running back with a gradual ascent to the north and south range of highland, which separates the waters flowing into the Hudson from those which pass off to the East River and Long Island Sound. As you advance up through Westchester, this north and south ridge becomes more elevated and rocky. It is, in fact, the commencement of that extensive and lofty range which soon enlarges itself into the " Highlands," or Fishkill Mountains, farther north swells into the still loftier Taghkanic group, and finally attains its highest grandeur in the Green Mountains of Vermont. YoNKERs, 17 miles north of New Yoi'k, is a thriving village in Westchester County, at the mouth of Sawmill River. It con- tains many fine dwelling-houses, about 12,000 inhabitants, and is the summer resort of many citizens of New York, being easily reached by railroad, or the steamboats which ply daily between that city, Sing Sing, and Peekskill. It is surrounded by very pleasant scenery, and commands a fine view of the Hudson and the Palisades. Hastings, 3 miles north of Yonkers, is a convenient landing- place, at which the smaller steamboats touch %o receive and dis- charge passengers. DoBBs' Ferry, 22 miles north of New York, is the name of a village, where is a convenient steamboat wharf. This was an important point in the military operations of the Revolutionary war. A ferry communicates with the opposite shore at the foot of the Palisades, a little north of the boundary line between the States of New York and Now Jersey; and from this point northward both sides of the Hudson are in New York. PiERMONT, formerly known as Tappan Landing, or the " Sloat," is on the west shor j ol the Hudson, 24 miles from the city of New York. It has become a place of importance as the teriiiitius of a branch of the New York and Erie Railroad. The line of this gi'eat work, from New York to Dunkirk, on the shore of Lake Erie, is 460 miles long. At Piermont a substan- tial pier, more than a mile long, has been constructed, extend- NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. 23 ing from the shore to the channel of the Hudson. A steamboat plies daily between this place and New York, and connects with the cars running on the railroad. At this point, also, the Pali- sades terminate on the north by an abrupt hill. This hill and the extensive pier already mentioned, being the two most dis- tinguishing features of the place, they have been appropriately combined to form the name of Piermont. Two or three mUes west from the river is the old village of Tappan, memorable as having been for a time the head-quarters of Washington and the American army during the Revolution, and the place where Major Andre was executed, on the 2d of October' 1780. Tappan Bat— or, as it was usually called in earlier times, Tappan Sea — being an expansion of the river, commences at Piermont and extends northward to Croton, or Teller's Point, a distance of 10 miles, with an average width of about 3 miles. On the eastern shore of this bay, in the midst of a beautiful landscape, is the favorite country residence of Washington Ir- ving. Nowhere on either shore of the Hudson is the scenery more distinguished for its picturesque beauty, having the Pali- sades in full view at the southwest ; at the west and north a fine range of hills stretching away to the grand mountain masses of the " Highlands," with the broad river between. Irvington, 25 miles, is the name given to a small settle- ment about 3 miles north of Dobbs' Ferry. The village of Tarrytovpn is beautifully situated on the east bank of the river, overlooking Tappan Bay, 27 miles north of the city of New York. It contains about 450 dwelling-houses and 3,000 inhabitants. Steamboats running to New York touch daily at this place. Immediately north is Beekmantown, where is the Irving Institute, a school of much celebrity, and a venerable Dutch Reformed Church, erected about the middle of the seventeenth century. Tarrytown is fam.ed as being the place where Major Andre was captured, while watering his horse, on his return from West Point, and from a personal in- terview vrith the traitor, G eneral Arnold. Immediately north NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. 25 of this village, also, is the famous Sleepy Hol/otv, where Wash- ingoon Irv.ng laid the scone of his entertaining legend of that n^vuie Nyacic, on the western side of the bay or river, is a, pleasant and thriving place, between which and New York a ste.imboat plies daily. Here Tappjin Bay spreads to its greatest width, presenting a noble espan, • of water. Rockland Laks, 2 or 3 miles northwest of Nyack, is a pic- turesque sheet of the purest water, from which hirge quantities of ice are annually sent to the New York market. Sing Sing, o'2 miles from New York, is handsomely situated on the east bank of the Hudson River. It has four landin"-s, from which steamboats and vessels ply daily to and from the city, affording a pleasant excursion. The main part of the vil- lage is situated on high and uneven ground, rising 180 foet above tide- water, and overlooking Tappan and Havcrstraw bays, the Hudson and Croton rivers, and the surrounding country, including a distant view of the Palisades and the Highlands. Sing Sing was incorporated in 1813, and now contains about 8,5U0 inhabitants. This village derives its name from the In- dian words " Ossin-Si?>g," meaning in their language the p/ate of stone. It is now celebrated for its marble quarries, which are worked to a great extent by the State Prison con- victs, who have here v^rected two large prisons, a keeper's bouse, and several ranges of workshops, from materials found on the State farm : where is also located a silver mine, which was worked to some extent previous to the Revolution, and a copper mine which has been more recently worked. The mar- ble found in this vicinity is of a medium quality, and almost inexhaustible ; large quantities are annually quarried and sent to the city of New York and other places. Here is to be seen a beautiful viaduct, over which is conveyed the acqueduct for supplying the city of New York with pure and wholesome water. The Mount Pleasant State Prison is situated about half a mile south of the village of Sing Sing. The prison grounds 26 NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. consist, of 130 acres of land, lying between the villages of Sing Sing and Sparta, being bounded on the east by the Highland turnpike, and on the west by the Hudson River, which here affords a depth of twelve feet of water at the landing. The main prison building is 484 feet in length, north and south, and 44 feet in width, fronting westerly on the Hudson, being five Btories in height, and containing 1,000 cells ; in front and rear are located workshops of different kinds, which, together with the keeper's house, are all built of rough dress marble. At- tached to the prison building, on the south, is a chapel, hospi- tal, kitchen, storehouses, etc. A new prison for female convicts Btands on elevated ground, and is built of marble in the Ionic order. Croton, or Teller's Point, about a mile north of Smg Sing, separates Tappan from Haverstraw Bay. It projects southerly into the river more than a mile, immediately above the confluence of the Croton River with the Hudson. On the opposite side of the river rises Verdreitje's Hook, a bold head- land 668 feet high, forming a beautiful feature in the land- Bcape. Haverstraw Bay is another expansion of the Hudson River, 2 to 3 miles wide and 6 miles long, terminating on the north at Verplank's and Stony Points. Haverstraw, or Warren, lies on the west side of the bay or river, 35 miles from New York, to which city a steamboat runs daily. Grassy Point, 2 miles above, on the same side of the river, is a convenient steamboat landing. Verplank's Point, on the east side of the river, 40 miles north of the city of New York, is an excellent landing-place, and memorable from its connection, in the Revolutionary war, With Stony Point, on the opposite side. On the latter point is now a light-house, erected on the site of the old fortification, Which completely commanded the channel of the river. These points, where the river contracts to about half a mile in width, were the first important positions north of the city of New 8 NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. 27 York at which the American forces attempted to defend the passage of the Hudson against the British, in the struggle for independence. {See Engraving.) Caldwell's Landing, on the west side of the river, 44 miles from New York and 101 miles from Albany, is the first place at which steam passage- boats of the large class touch on their upward trip, to land and receive passengers. This land- ing is situated at the south entrance of the " Highlands," and is connected by a steam ferry with The village of Peekskill, 43 miles from New York, a large and thriving village, from which two or three steamboats run directly to the city of New York, carrying large quantities of produce, mannfactured articles, and passengers. It was incor- porated in 1827, and now contains 4,500 inhabitants, 8 churches, 6 public houses, 30 stores, and about 600 dwellings, besides many large manufacturing establishments. On Oak Hill, where is now situated the Peekskill Academy, is a venerable oak tree, on which was hung, during the Revo- lutionary war, two noted spies, Strang and Palmer. PcekskiU was then the head- quarters of the American army under Gene- ral Putnam, who here dated his laconic reply to Sir Henry Clinton, commander of the Bintish forces in the city of New York, who sent up a flag of truce, demanding the release of Ed- mund Palmer, a lieutenant of a Tory regiment, who had been detected in the x\merican camp. The following was the reply sent back by Putnam : " Hkad-Quarteks, Tth Aug., 17T7. ' Edmund Palmer, an officer in the enemy's service, was taken as a spy, lurking within the American lines ; he has been tried as a spy condemned as a spy, and shall be executed as a spy, and the flag is ordered to depart immediately. Israel Putnam. '• P. S. He has been accordingly executed." During summer, a stage leaves Peekskill every day for Ma- hopac Lake, and in the hottest of the season, when the lake is most visited, twice a day, leaving Peekskill morning and evening. 2S NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. Mahopac Lake is a beautiful sheet of water in the town of Carmel, Putnam County, and is one of the chief soure.s of the Croton River. It is about one mile in diaru.cer, and embosoms two or three small islands. The waters abound with various kinds of fish of a fine flavor. It is a place of considerable re- sort, with good accommodations for visitors. Here is d good public house for the accommodation of strangers. Old Fort Independence lies opposite Caldwell's Landing, on the northeast, near the mouth of the Peekskill. The situa- tion is delightful, facing down the river, with an unobstructed view for many miles, while immediately in the rear rise the " Highlands" in majestic grandeur. On leaving Caldwell's Landing, the river takes a sudden turn to the west for about a mile, this reach having the local desig- nation of the ^- Horse. Race" and then resumes its northern course, passing between the bold, wooded, and overshadowing hills known as the " Highlands " or " Matteawan Mountains." This latter name, meaning " the country for good fur," was given by the aborigines, and is a fine, distinctive, and appro- priate name for the whole group The " Highlands," the grandest, and. next to the Palisades, the most remarkable feature of the scenery of the Hudson, are about 16 miles in width, and extend in a southwest and north- east direction for some 20 or 30 miles, covering a part of the counties of Rockland and Orange on the west side of the river, and Putnam and Dutchess on the east. Several of their sum- mits reach an elevation of 1,000 to 1,685 feet. This may be considered classic ground, as many of the points or eminences in view from the river are celebrated in history for being the scene of stirring events during the struggle for American Inde- pendence, 1776 to 1783. The sites of old Fort Clinton and Montgomery, of Revolu- tionary memory, are on the west side of the river, opposite the lower Anthony's J\''ose, 6 miles below West Point. These forts, deemed almost impregnable, were erected at this point for the defense of the river, which was also obstructed by chevaux-de- NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. 29 frise, boom, and chains. On the 6th of October, 1777, they Tfere attacked by a superior British force under Sir Henry Clinton, and captured after a sharp resistance, the garrison of 600 men being overpowered by a disciplined army of 3,000 strong. The works were resolutely defended until dark, when the enemy effected an entrance at several places, there not being a sufficient number of soldiers in the fort to man the lines. West Point is romantically situated on the west bank of the Hudson River, 52 miles from New York and 98 miles from Al- bany. It is the seat of the United States Military Academy, established by an act of Congress in March, 1802, and the land ceded to the United States Government by the State of New York, 1826. Here are now erected two stone barracks, one of three and the other four stories in height, occupied by 250 cadets, which is the number authorized by law ; an academic hall, a large three-story stone building, 275 feet in length, by 75 feet in width, used for military exercises in winter, and as a depository of the chemical apparatus, models of fortification, artillery, architecture, and machines, and as recitation and drawing rooms ; a new and beautiful two-story stone building, to be used for the library and philosophical apparatus, con- structed in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and is 150 feet in length by 60 feet in width ; the north front has three towers suited for the astronomical apparatus ; the center tower is sur- mounted by a dome of 28 feet 10 inches in diameter, the whole of which revolves on its vertical axis, adapting it to the use of a large equatorial telescope; a chapel, an hospital, a mess hall, two cavalry stabler' several workshops and store-rooms, and seventeen separate dweilmgs occupied by the officers of the insti- tution. In addition to the above, here are located a magazine, a laboratory, soldiers' barracks, a store, and about 25 dwelling- houses, occupied by families connected with the military school — in all containing a population of about 1,000 souls. Here, also, is a well-kept hotel, calculated to accommodate about 150 Tisitors. 3* 80 NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. No place in the Union, probably, exceeds West Point in beauty of location and the stirring incidents connected with its early history, being "hallowed by the footsteps of Washington and Kosciusko," during the Revolutionary struggle, the interest in which is continued to the present time by its being the resi- dence and school of the future defenders of the Union. In 1 777 , immediately after the capture of Forts Clinton and Montgom- ery by the British army, West Point was first occupied by the American army, and fortified at the instance of Gov. George Clinton, of Revolutionary memory. At the present time are to be seen the remains of Forts Putnam and Arnold (after the treason of the latter, called Fort CUnton), which is situated on the extreme eastern point of this military position, 160 feet above tide- water, while Fort Putnam is situated on Mount Inde- pendence, 1,000 yards southwest, elevated about 500 feet above the river ; there are also numerous other redoubts and batteries crowning the various eminences in the vicinity, built under the direction of the celebrated Kosciusko as engineer. In August, 1780, General Arnold was assigned to the command of this im- portant military station, extending from Fishkill to Verplank's Point. On the 25th of September he precipitately made his escape from his head-quarters, the Robinson House, situated two miles below West Point, on the opposite side of the river, his treason having been discovered by the fortunate captvire of Major Andre. From this period to the close of the Revolution- ary war in 1783, West Point was garrisoned by a strong division of the American army ; after which the garrison was reduced, and this location made a depot for the Revolutionary armament and other military stores. In 1794, at the recommendation of General Washington, a military school was commenced in a building which was burned dot^rn two years thereafter, and the school suspended until 180§. There are now connected with the West Point Academy thirty- four ofi&cers and professors, a company of artillery, and a de- tachment of dragoons, besides the cadets, who generally re- main here for a period of four years, in which time they are NEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. 31 qnalified to become subaltern officers of the several corps of the army. No stranger should leave this place without visiting the pub- lic buildings, Kosciusko's Monument, and a wild and romantic retreat near the water's edge called '' Kosciusko's Garden." the ruins of old Fort Putnam, which commands a view of West Point, the Hudson River, and the surrounding mountaia scenery. The Cemetery, abo^t half a mile north of the hotel, is also well worthy of a visit. On the south, towaid Buttermilk Falls, about a mile distant, there is a pleasant road running near the river, and most of the way through a beautiful grove of trees. In this vicinity, and most agreeably located, is situated Cozzens' Hotel, under the superintendence o*f a favorite publican. If the visitor tarries through the day at this attractive place, any time during the summer months, when the hotels are usu- ally thronged with fashionable people from every section of the Union, he will have an opportunity to view West Point in all its loveliness The village of Cold Spring, 54 miles from New York, a mile or more above West Point, on the opposite side of the river, is a thriving manufacturing village. Here are situated the exten- sive iron works commonly known as the '• West Point Foundry," and supposed to be on as broad a scale as any in the Union, and a machine shop, giving constant employment to about 500 workmen. The largest kind of machinery, for steamboat and other purposes, and warlike implements, are here constructed. The ore on Avhich the works depend is found in the immediate vicinity ; and there is also a quarry of granite of a very superior quality, easy of access, and inexhaustible. Beacon Hill and Breakneck, both on the east side of the river, are situated immediately above Cold Spring. The for- mer, sometimes called the " Grand Sachem," is the highest peak of the Highlands, being elevated 1,685 feet above the river. The latter presents the rocky projection called the *' Upper Jinthony's jYose.^* 32 KEW YORK TO ALBANY, TROY, ETC. Crow's Nest and Butter Hill, are situated on the west side of the river. They rise abruptly from the water's edge. The latter, which is the more northerly peak, lifts its summit 1,520 feet above the Hudson, and the other is nearly as high. PoLLOPiiir's Island is a mass of rock lying in the Hudson River, near its east shore, at the northern entrance into the Highlands, 6 miles above West Point. Here the river begins to widen and expand to the width of .tnore than a mile for some 5 or 6 miles, for which distance it is sometimes called JVewburgh Bay. CoRNVTALL, CANTERBURY, and New Windsor are small villages situated on the west side «f the river, immediately above the Highlands, the last-named village being distinguished as the birth-place of De Witt Clinton. New^burgh, 61 miles north of New York and 84 south of Albany, is pleasantly situated on rising ground, on the west bank of the river. It was incorporated in 1800, and now con- tains about 12000 inhabitants, 1,500 dwelling-houses, a court- house, and jail, this being a half-shire of Orange County ; a Theological Seminary under the direction of the Associate Re- formed Presbyterian denomination ; an incorporated academy ; a high school, two female seminaries, and a number of select schools, all in a flourishing condition; two large public libra- ries ; eleven churches of different denominations ; three bank- ing-houses ; fourteen hotels and taverns ; 150 stores of different kinds; nine storehouses; five freighting establishments; four steamboats and two barges, running to and from the city of New Yoi'k, besides a number of sloops trading to different places on the Hudson River, and schooners and other craft running to Southern and Eastern ports, altogether transport- ing an immense amount of lumber, coal, plaster, and agricul- tural and manufactui-ed products ; two good steamboats, also, are attached to the ferry between this place and Fishkill, on the opposite side of the river, which is here about one mile in width. The location of Newburgh, in addition to its romantic beauty and healthiness, is peculiarly favorable as a place of NEW YORK TO ALBANT, TROY, ETC. 33 business, being surrounded by a, rich grazing and agricultural region, celebrated for butter and livestock. The JVewbur<::;h Branch of the New York and Erie Railroad extends from this place to Chester, 20 miles. Newburgh was for a period the head-quarters of Gen. Wash- ington, and at the close of the Revolutionary war the army was here disbanded, June 23, 1783. The celebrated jYewburgh Letters, addressed to the officers and men of the army, were here dated, supposed to have been written by the late Gfcneral John Armstrong. It is proposed to erect a suitable column to the memory of Washington, in front of the old stone house, in the south part of this village, where his family resided ; it is to be from 80 to 100 feet high, constructed of white marble or granite, at an estimated cost of $^0,000. It will be in plain sight from the water, commanding one of the finest prospects on the Hudson. FisHKiLL Landing, 60 miles from New York by railroad route, lies on the east side of the river, directly opposite New- burgh, with which it is connected by a steam ferry, is a thriv- ing village, containing about 1,500 inhabitants, and surround- ed by delightful country residences. Matte A WAN, an extensive and celebrated manufacturing village, is situated on the Fishkill, a mile and a half east of Fisljkill Landing. GliEnham, 3 miles from the landing, is also a celebrated manufacturing village, celebrated for its superior woolen cloths. The village of Fishkill is pleasantly situated on a plain, 5 miles east of Fishkill Landing, and 65 miles north of the city of New York, on the great post-road to Albany. This road, from Peekskill to Fishkill, a distance of 19 miles, traverses the fligh- ^ands, and is remarkable for its formidable hills and the wild scenery of this mountain route. As you approach Fishkill from the south, the character of the scenery suddenly changes to that of a fertile and cultivated farming 2./5 Bromide of Potassium ) Silica 62 Alumina 25 361.74 Carbonic Acid Gas, cubic inches 480.01 Atmospheric air 8.09 I 488.10 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 67 Putnam's Congress.— This fountain is situated midway be- tween Broadway and Putnam Street, and nearly opposite the United States Hotel. It was discovered a long time since by Mr. Lewis Putnam, who, in 1835, excavated, tubed, and care- fully secured it from the fresh water, and all other foreign sub- stances about it. It is justly a popular fountain, and is much used by both citizens and strangers, many of whom are particularly attached to it, and use it instead of the Congress, for cathartic purposes, with good success. The water has been vended in considerable quantities every year since it has been in complete operation. In connection with the spring is a bathing establishment, second to no other in the place for commodious baths, lai-ge rooms, and proper attendants. This, as well as the spring, is owned by Messrs. Putnam & Son, and always subject to their personal superintendence. Temperature of this spring, 48°. Analysis. One gallon of the water furnished the following constituents, on analysis : Chloride of Sodium 220.000 grs. Carbonate of Soda 15.431 Carbonate of ISIagnesia 45.500 Carbonate of Lime 70.438 Carbonate of Iron 7.333 Hydriodate of Soda 2.500 Bromide of Potash " Silex and Alumina 1.5G0 Solid contents in one gallon 362 697 Carbonic Acid 317.753 Atmospheric Air 3.080 Gaseous contents in a gallon 320.833 68 THE SARATOGA SPRING. This new mineral fountain is situated a few rods north of the curious High Rock Spring. It was dug down to, and tubed from, the rock in April, 1862. The water is composed of five distinct veins or jets, issuing out of five separate crev- ices in the rock ; one of these veins undoubtedly formed the old and well-known Iodine Spring — the other veins being new. The quality of the water as a beverage, and its virtues of a medicinal character, are conceded by all who have tested its merits. The verdict of the thousands of visitors and ci|;- izens who have used it has been so uniform in its favor, that the proprietors feel not the least hesitation in claiming, that as a Cathartic, a Diuretic, and a Tonic, it is uneqiutled ; while in other respects it is not excelled by the most popular and celebrated mineral waters of the world. Southern Depot for the sale of the above mineral water, 68 Barclay Street, New York. Saratog^a Lake, four miles east of Saratoga Springs, is a place of great resort during the summer months. A large public house is situated at the north end of the lake, from wlience a small steamer runs to the White Sulphur Spking, some seven or eight miles, affording a delightful excursion. Riating and fishing parties are also accommodated with facil- ities for aquatic sports. PRINCIPAL HOTELS IN SARATOGA SPRINGS. American Hotel Richard McMichael . . . .Broadway. Clakendon Hotel. . . .Samuel L. White Broadway. Columbian Hotel . . . .U. N. Benedict Broadway. Congress Hall Hathorn & McOmber . . .Broadway. Continental Hotel. . . Washington St. Marvin House A. & D. Snyder Broadway. Union Hall W. W. Leland & Co. . . .Broadway. United States Hotel. J. M. Marvin & Co Broadway. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 6V> Ten Springs. — About a mile from the Higli Rock Spring, in an eastern direction, are situated the Teii Springs, so called from the circumstance of there being that number located near together. They never have acquired much celebrity, and it is probable, from their proximity to others so distinguished, that they will never rise into much consequence. White Sulphur Spring. — This spring is situated on the east side of Saratoga Lake, about half a mile south of Snake Hill. Its location is in a beautiful ravine, in the middle of which runs a line little stream of fresh water, and a few rods east of the fountain it falls into the lake. As the ravine ap- proximates the shore of the lake it widens a little, and the south bank particularly rises very abruptly to the height of some 85 or 40 feet above the surface of the brook. Within some twenty rods of the lake shore a deep niche is formed in the south bank, somewhat in the form of a horse- shoe. The bank here is almost perpendicular with its base, but a little elevated above the brook, which is within a few feet of the main bank of the ravine. At the base of this high bank, and at the center of the horse- shoe, passes out this sulphur spring, and its course to the brook is marked by the white sul- phur which is deposited. The temperature of this spring is 48°, barometer at 30°, and the temperature of the atmosphere at zero. Its specific gravity is 1000.5. Sulphureted Hydrogen 0.5 Atmospheric Air 4.0 Silex and Alumina, three grains to the gallon. The Quaker Springs, situated about 10 miles in a southeast direction from Saratoga Springs, in the town of Saratoga, are of some celebrity. They contain lime, magnesia, and iron, held in solution by carbonic acid, and, like the others in the county they likewise contain a portion of common salt and soda. The otlier springs of less note are the Flat Rock, Hamilton, Columbian, and Washington Spring. 70 SARATOGA SPRINGS. On leaving Saratoga Springs for Whitehall, 40 miles, or Lake George, 29 miles, the northern route is continued by the Sara- toga and Whitehall Railroad. If the traveler is destined for Lake George, the cars are left at Moreau Station, 15 miles above Saratoga Springs, where stages will be found in readi- ness to transport passengers over a good plank road to Glen's Falls, 5 miles, and from thence to Caldwell, 9 miles farther. Here are situated two large and popular hotels, affording every accommodation that may be desired ; also, other luxuries that money alone can not purchase, viz., good mountain air, pure, wholesome water, and delicious fish of different kinds, such as ought to satisfy any "gourmand or faster" who has long been waiting to enjoy the luxury of partaking of the finely-flavored trout of Lake Horicon or its tributaries. Passengers bound for Whitehall, Rutland, Burlington, Platts- burgh, or Montreal, proceed north from Moreau Station or Fort Edward, situated on the Hudson River, direct to the former place. At Whitehall the railroad route diverges east toward Rutland and Boston, while steamers of a large class run twice daily on Lake Champlain, leaving Whitehall morning and evening. For a further description of Lake George and Lake Cham- plain, see pages 197 and 201. WESTERN TOUR, ROUTES FEOM ALBANY AND TROY TO BUPFALO, NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. The first link of the great chain of railroads connecting the navigable waters of the Hudson with Lake Erie is the Albany and Schenectady Railroad, now forming a part of the great JVew York Central Railroad. It was one of the first constructed railroads in this State, the company having been chartered in 1826. It extends from Albany to Schenectady, 17 miles, and passes over a tract of sandy land, covered nearly the whole dis- tance with a thick growth of stunted pines. Tlie Schenectady and Troy Railroad, also forming part of the New York Central, extends from the city of Troy to the city of Schenectady, on a line of 20 miles in length, and making, with the other road, two lines of travel diverging from the tide waters of the Hudson, in addition to the Erie Canal, This road from Troy inclines to the north, running rparallel with the Mohawk River, and is remarkable for the variety and beauty of its scenery. This road also now forms a part of the JSi'ew York Central Railroad. The City of Schenectady, 16 miles west of Albany, is handsomely situated on the south bank of the Mohawk, at the true commencement of the celebrated valley of that river. This is an ancient place, having been settled as early as 1620, by the Dutch, many of whose living descendants reside in the dweJ lings of their ancestors, and retain many of their primitive habits. This place was called by the Indians Schagh-nac-taa- da^ signifying, in their language, *' beyond the pine plain^i." During the old French and Indian wars, Feb. 9, 1690, it wa^J taken by surprise in the dead of night, was sacked and burned by the Indians ; a great number of its inhabitants were massa- cred, and others carried away into captivity. It was chartered 72 WESTERN TOUR. as a city in 1798, and in 1860 contained 9,579 inhabitants. Few inland towns present a more thronged thoroughfare than Schenectady. In addition to the Erie Canal, which passes through the center of the city, here diverge three important railroads. Besides those already mentioned, there is the Sara- toga and Schenectady Bailruad, running to Ballston Spa and to Saratoga Springs, 21 1 miles. The public buildings, dwellings, and stores in Schenectady present a plain appearance, perfectly in keeping with the gene- ral character of the place. There are several well-kept hotels, affording every desirable accommodation for the traveler, if in- clined to tarry for business or pleasure. The place derives its most extended celebrity from being the seat of Union College, situated on the elevated ground about half a mile east of the compact part of the city. This institution was incorporated in 1795, and derived its name from the fact that its founders were members of different denominations, and proffered its advan- tages indiscriminately to the followers of every faith. The buildings consist of one stone and two brick edifices, containing accommodations for the president and professors and their families ; two chapels, lecture and library rooms, four halls for the meeting of literary societies, and dormitories for students, of whom there are usually from 200 to 300, from every section of the country. Attached to the institution are about 250 acres of land, appropriated in part to groves for recreation and health. These are distinguished for beauty of feaxure and situ- ation, and present great capability for improvement. The an- nual commencement takes place on the fourth \Vednesday of July, after which there is a vacation of six weeks. On leaving Schenectady for Saratoga Springs and for Utica, the railroad tracks cross the Erie Canal and Mohawk Ptiver by substantial bridges. If bound for the Springs, you proceed northward through an interesting region, passing on the way the village of Ballston Spa, an old and celebrated place of re- aort, and the terminus of the Rensselaer and Saratoga Rail- road, which comes up from Troy. If bound to the West, your WESTERN TOUR. 7i^ route is on the north side of the Mohawk, and your first halt is at the village of Amsterdam, 15 miles from Schenectady, and connected by a toll-bridge with Port Jackson, on the opposite side of the river. Amsterdam contains about 2,500 inhabitants, and in the immediate vicinity are annually quarried large quantities of a fine quality of limestone, much used for the construction of locks and other public works. Stages leave Amsterdam daily for the Fish House, on the Sacondaga River, and for other places to the north in Fulton County. One or two miles west of Amsterdam, on the line of the railroad, are situated two of the old stone mansions of the Johnson family, who figured largely in the early history of this part of the country. Fonda, a pleasant village of recent date, and the county seat of Montgomery County, is 42 miles by railroad from Albany. It stands on the north side of the Mohawk, and opposite the village of Fultonville, on the Erie Canal. Johnstown, the county scat of Fulton County, lies 4 miles north of the Mohawk River, and 45 miles from Albany. This is an old and interesting place, containing about 1,700 inhabit- ants. It was originally founded by Sir William Johnson, whose residence, built of limestone, is still standing about one mile west of the village. A daily line of stages runs from Johns- town to Fonda, connecting with the cars on the New York Cen- tral Railroad. Sp raker's Basin, on the line of the Erie Canal, is 36 miles from Schenectady. Here is located a thriving settlement, con- taining a church and some 30 or 40 dwellings. Palatine Bridge, 54 miles from Albany, connects with the village of Canajoharie, on the south bank of the Mohawk River. Canajoharie was incorporated in 1829, and now con- tains about 1,500 inhabitants. The Erie Canal passes through the center of the village. Stages leave this place daily, during the summer season, for Sharon Sulphur Springs and Coopers- town. ? 74 "WESTERN TOUR. Sharon Springs, some 8 or 10 miles south of Canajoharie, and 45 miles west of Albany, via the Cherry Valley turnpike, being 55 miles by railroad, via Palatine Bridge, has become a place of great resort for health and pleasure. The rides in the "vicinity ; the numerous villages ; extensive views ; neighboring caves, and romantic scenery, together with the delightful fish- ing in Otsego Lake, are among the many attractions offered to those seeking in the heat of summer either health or pleasure. Here are 6 or 6 first-class Hotels for the accommodation of visitors, being usually thronged with guests during the summer months. These healthful fountains possess powerful attractions for the seekers of health, of pure air, and of splendid natural scenery. The springs are highly medicinal, and exceedingly pleasant and grateful, because the water is very cold when first taken from the fountain. Magnesia is the prevailing medicinal in- gredient in one spring, and sulphur in the other. The country around the Springs, and the Springs themselves. are elevated 900 feet above the Mohawk River, fi'om which they are distant about eight miles. The elevation is achieved by a gradual ascent throughout the whole of this distance. A traveler who leaves the city of New York in the evening boat for Albany, may take breakfast in that city the next morning, and then place himself in a railroad car, which will convey* him to Schenectady, and up the romantic valley of the Mohawk, to Palatine Bridge. There he takes a post-coach, and, availing himself of a plank road most of the way, is set down at the Springs before 1 o'clock, p.m. Fare from Albany, $1 10 in car, and $1 in post-coach. Arrived at the Springs, he will find a number of houses for the temporary, and always very agreeable, accommodation of travelers or boarders. The oldest and most conspicuous of these is the "Pavilion" kept by Mr. Gardiner. This house being very large, will accommodate some three hundred persons, and it is kept in a style of elegance and luxury unsurpassed at any watering-place in the country. The site of the house, and WESTERN TOUR. 75 piazza in front, command a most extensive and variegated prospect of the country for many miles around in the vicinity. The house next in importance is kept by Mr. S. Eldridge, and called the " Eldridge House." It is nearer to the Spiings than yae " Pavilion," and the charges for board are more moderate, although the house is extremely well provided. The pure, clear waters of these springs, greatly resembling those of the White Sulphur Springs of Virginia, have been proved to be highly efficacious in rheumatic, cutaneous, and dyspeptic complaints, and, in some respects, possess medicinal and healing properties unsurpassed, and believed to be un- equaled, in the United States or Canada. Cooper 8T0WN, although off" from the great line of travel, east and west, is well worthy of a visit. It is 66 miles west of the city of Albany, by stage route, and most delightfully situated on a plain at the outlet of Otsego Lake, this being the chief source of the Susquehanna River. No inland village in the Union probably excels Cooperstown in elegance of situation and beauty of surrounding scenery. Otsego Lake, in the immediate vicinity, is a most beautiful sheet of water, abound- ing in trout and bass, celebrated for their peculiar flavor. Richfield Springs, G9 miles from Albany, is situated near the head of Canaderaga Lake. There are also three or four well-kept hotels for the accommodation of visitors. Richfield Sulphur Sprmgs are some 1,800 feet above tide water, in a valley south of the Mohawk, amidst suurounding mountains, about 70 miles west of Albany, 13 south of Her- kimer, in the immediate vicinity of the beautiful lakes of Otsego and Schuyler; in fact, there are five lakes, abounding with fish, within one hour's ride of the American Hotel, kept by Wm. P. Johnson. Visitors will always find private conveyances at Herkimer Station, on the line of the N. Y. Central Railroad, or they can avail themselves of the daily stages which convey the mail to 75 WESTEPwN TOUR. Richfield Springs, so that parties visiting the Springs can leave the city of New York in the evening boats, and reach the Springs on the afternoon of the next day, and those leaving it by morning cars reach it on the same day. Fort Plain, 57 miles from Albany by railroad route, on the south side of the Mohawk River, is situated on the line of the Erie Canal. It was incorporated in 1834, and now con- tains about 1,500 inhabitants. A daily line of stages runs from this place to Cherry Valley, Cooperstown, and Sharon Springs, in Schoharie County. Saint Johnsville, 63 miles from Albany, and 31 from Utica, is situated on the north side of the Mohawk, on the line of the New York Central Railroad; it contains about 300 inhabitants. The railroad cars usually stop here a sufficient time to enable passengers to obtain refreshments. East Canada Creek enters the Mohawk River 3 miles west of St. Johnsville. This stream, for a considerable distance, forms the boundary line between the counties of Montgomery and Herkimer. Little Falls, Herkimer County, is situated on both sides of the Mohawk, 73 miles west of the city of Albany. It was first incorporated in 1811, and amended in 1827 ; it now con- tains about 4,000 inhabitants and 400 dwelling-houses. The Mohawk River here falls, in the distance of half a mile, about 42 feet, affording hydraulic power to a large extent, only a small portion of which is at present occupied for manufacturing purposes. This place and vicinity is justly celebrated for its wild and romantic scenery, and is much resorted to by the admirers of nature and art. The gap between the mountains, through which the river has apparently worn for itself a passage, though confined, is still of breadth sufficient to afi^ord room for a large town. The rock at the river bed is primitive granitic gneiss, very hard, but is readily quarried and broken into WESTERN TOUR. ^jr^ building, stone. Above this, on the mountain sides, lies the sand rock, and still higher, at the top, are extensive beds of blue limestone, great quantities of which have been used in constructing the locks, and for building, for coping, and for flagging. Through this gorge passes the Erie Canal, on the south side of the river, and the Utica and Schenectady Rail- road and the Mohawk turnpike on the north. It is the gateway through which the product and travel of the vast West must of necessity, pass to tide water. An aqueduct crosses the Mohawk at this place, communicating with a feeder on the north side of the nver, and is a fine specimen of masonry. A daily line of stages runs between Little Falls and Trenton Falls, and several mail routes north and south branch off at this place VVkst Caivada Creek enters the Mohawk River 5 miles west of Little Falls. Its whole length is about 60 miles from It. sources, in the wilds of Hamilton County. It is a romantic and lovely stream, and abounds with fine trout. About 20 miles from Its mouth are situated Trenton Falls, being on the border of the town of the same name in Oneida County Ihe village of Herkimek, 79 miles from Albany, is hand- s mely situated in the valley of the Mohawk, on the north side lut' ["00 -\ r; ^^^-P--^«d - 1807, and now contains about 1,200 inhabitants, 150 dwelUng-houses, a new brick court-house, and stone jail, built on an improved model, com- bmixig security and comfort to the prisoners. Here is a flour- ing mill, containing four run of stone, situated on a hydraulic ana/, which is fed by the waters of the West Canada Creek It IS about three miles in length, and has two falls, one of 22 feet, and anotber of 15 feet, affording water-power sufficient to p.-opel upward of 100 run of stone, most of which is unoccupied fhe village of Mohawk, situated on the south side of the nver one mile west of Herkimer, is a thriving place of busi- ness, through which passes the Erie Canal sitlatef'^l' 1- ^^^^^---' 9 -1- east of Utica, is- also situated on the line of the Erie Canal, and contains a^out 500 lanabitants. 7* •Jg -WESTERN TOUR. The City of Utica, situated on the south side of th© Mohawk River, is on the site of old Fort Schuyler, 95 miles west of the city of Albany. It was chartered in 1832, and i8 now divided into seven wards, and governed by a common council, consisting of a mayor and 14 aldermen. In 1860 it contained 22,529 inhabitants, about 2,500 dwelling-houses. 4 Presbyterian churches, 1 Reformed Dutch, 4 Episcopal. 4 Bap- tist 3 Metnodist, 2 Roman Catholic, and 1 African church, and 1 Friends' meeting-house; 1 Protestant and 1 Cathohc orphan asylum; 5 banking houses and 2 savings' banks; 1 mutual insurance company; 2 incorporated academies, one for males and the other for females; a museum located m the Exchange building; 10 hotels and taverns, besides several private boarding-houses; 2 extensive steam woolen factories; 1 large steam cotton factory, and 1 screw factory-all recently erected. The J^ew York State Lunatic Asylum, situated on some- what elevated ground, about one mile west of the center of Utica, is a noble and imposing structure. The finished build- in. can accommodate upward of 600 patients This humane esrablishment is calculatid for the reception of all insane per- sons in the State, whose friends or county authorities may apply in their behalf. In addition to the Erie Canal, which passes through the cen- ter of the city, the Chenango Canal commences at this place, and terminates at Binghamton, in Broome County. Utic^ and Black Rivek Railroad. -This road is now fin- ished from the city of Utica to Booneville, 35 miles. When completed it will extend to Philadelphia, Jefferson Co., a dis- tance of 86 miles, connecting at the latter place with the Rome, Watertown, and Ogdenshvrgh Railroad. Passenger cars leave Utica twice daily for Booneville, passing near Trenton Falls, situated 1 6 miles north of Utica. Stages run from Boone- ville to Carthage and Watertown on the arrival of the trams. The Utica and Clinton Railroad extends from Utica to Clinton ,*9 miles southward. "WESTERN TOUR. 70 The principal hotels in Utica are chiefly situated on Genesee Street, of which the following are the most noted : Baggs' Hotel or Bleecker House, American Hotel, and Central Hotel. Trenton- Falls, 15 miles northeast from Utica by railroad and stage, situated on the West Canada Ci-eek, in the town of Trenton, are among the most remarkable scenes in our coun try. The wild, secluded, and primeval aspect of the place serves greatly to heighten the effect of the striking spectacle presented by the stream ; and the whole is so deeply embosom- ed in the primitive forest that no token of the long and deep gorge through which the waters rush is visible till you are on its very brink. Within a distance of about two miles there are no less than six distinct cascades, interchanging with rapids aa picturesque as the falls themselves. The first fall, beginning up stream, is called the Upper Falls, and has a descent of about 20 feet. The river then dashes along its rocky bed about a mile, with a descent, in that distance, of about 20 feet more, to the second falls, called The Cascades. A little farther down you come to the third fall, called the Mill-dam, from the regularity and smoothness of the ledge of rock, about 20 feet high, over which the waters pour. About 40 rods more bring you to the High Falls. At this place the volume of the stream is separated, by rifts in the rock, into three distinct cataracts, having a perpendicular pitch of more than 100 feet. Here the chasm has become vei'y deep, and the high wooded banks and cliflFs of bare rock on each side combine with the cataracts to make a spectacle of wild and savage grandeur. About 70 rods farther down you come to the fifth, or ShermaiVs Falls, having a descent of nearly 40 feet, from the foot of which the stream pours along a less rapidly descending bed to the sixth, or Conrad^s Falls, a pitch of some 15 or 20 feet, and soon after the river, escaping from the deep and dark ravine, flows onward between more Bunny banks and through a softer landscape. WESTERN TOUR. '8'1 The chasm, for the whole distance, is cut through a vast mass of liaie-rock, which abounds with organic remains ; and the path which the tourist 7Jiust take, if he would obtain any adequate conceptions of the scene, is along a narrow shelf of rock near the foot of the high and in some places oTerhanging precipice, and on the immediate verge of rushing waters. This shelf is so narrow in several places, and so perilous, that it has been found necessary to guard it with a chain supported by iron standards let into the rock; though, sad to say, this safe-guard was not furnished till two interesting young females had been lost in the terrible flood. The entire descent of the stream, from the top of the Ujjper Falls to the foot of Conrad's Falls, is stated at 312 feet. Trenton Falls Hotel, kept by Mr. Moore, is a place of great and fashionable resort. The village of Whitesborough, 4 miles west of Utica, is situated on the south side of the Mohawk River. This is one of the oldest white settlements in this section of country, and has long been celebrated as a pleasant and attractive place of residence, being surrounded by fertile lands settled by an in- telligent and wealthy community. It was incorporated in 1813, and now contains about 1,200 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in manufacturing pursuits. Oriskany, 7 miles west of Utica, is a large manufacturing place, situated on the Oriskany Creek, near its junction with the Mohawk River. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants, 200 dwelling-houses, 2 churches, 4 public bouses, 4 stores, and 2 large factory buildings, belonging to the " Oriskany Manufac- turing Company," which annually manufacture into broad cloths and cassimeres about 200.000 pounds of wool, giving employment to about 150 men, women, and children. The buildings, grounds, and machinery of this establishment cost about $200,000. 82 WESTERN TOUR. It was here that the battle of Oriskany was fought, one of the bloodiest, in proportion to the numbers engage*!, during the whole war of our Revolution, and in which Gen. Herkimer, of German Flats, lost his life. He was on his way, with about 800 of the militia of the Mohawk Valley, to the relief of the garrison at Fort Stanwix, when at Oriskany a deadly fire was opened on him and his corps, by a body of British regulars, tories, and Indians, from an ambuscade in a narrow ravine. The Americans were completely surrounded, but the gallant Herkimer and his brave compatriots maintained the fight for near six hours. Herkimer received his mortal wounds early in the fight, but he kept the field, seated on his saddle placed on a hillock, which gave him a view of the contest, and from which he calmly issued his orders to the last. This was on the 6th of August, 1777. The village of Rome, 14 miles west of Utica, is situated near the head waters of the Mohawk, and on the line of the Erie Canal, where it is intersected by the Black River Canal. Here commences the Watcrtoitm and Rome Railroad, extend- ing to Cape Vincent, 97 miles. The village was incorporated in 1819, and is a half-shire town with Whitesborough for Oneida County ; it contains about 8,000 inhabitants, 800 dwell- ing-houses, a court-house and jail, and other public buildjngs. This place stands on the site of old Fort Stanwix, which was an important military post during the Revolutionary and French wars. Owing to its natural and artificial advantages, this village is fast increasing in wealth and numbers. OivEiDA DKPor, 27 miles west of Utica, and 26 from Syra- cuse, is a new and thriving settlement, where the train of pas- senger cars usually stops some 10 or 15 minutes. One or two miles south of the depot is the incorporated village of Onkida Castle, near which resides a remnant of the Oneida tribe of Indians, numbering about 300 souls. VVampsville, 3 miles farther west, is a small settlement, through which passes the Syracuse and Utica Railroad. Canastota, 32.J miles west of Utica, by railroad, and on WESTERN TOUR. 83 the Erie Canal, was incorporated in 1835, and now contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Chittenango, 39 miles west of Utica, by railroad, is situ- ated one mile south of the Erie Canal, with which it is con- nected by a side-cut. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants, 180 dwelling-houses, 3 churches, 3 taverns, 10 stores, 1 woolen factory, 1 flouring mill, and 2 large factories for the manufac- ture of water-liine,*which is found in this vicinity, and is ex- tensively used on the different public works of the State and for other purposes. There is a sulphur spring one mile south of the village of Chittenango, of some celebrity The village of Cazknovia is situated on the Cjierry Valley turnpilie, about 10 miles south of the Erie Canal, 118 miles from Albany. It was incorporated in 1810, and now contains about 1,400 inhabitants, 250 dwelling-houses, and 4 churches of ditfercnt denominations. Here is situated the Oneida Sem- inai-y, a theological institution sustained by the Methodist denomination of this and the neighboring States. Cazknovia Lake is a small but beautiful sheet of water, In the town of the same name. It is 4 miles long by 1 mile in width, abounding in diflferent kinds of fish. The City of Syracuse, 148 miles from Albany and 150 miles from Buffalo, by railroad route, is advantageously situated on the line of the Erie Canal, where it unites with the Oswego Canal, near the south end of Onondaga Lake. This aspiring city was chartered in 1848, and is divided into eight wards. In 1839 it contained 28,119 inhabitants. Here are located a new court-house and jail, built of Onondaga limestone, in the Anglo-Norman style of architecture; a city hall, county clerk's building. State Idiot Asylum, 8 banks, 2 savings' banks, 1 insurance company, an orphan asylum, and the Franklin Institute, organized in 1837 ; 25 churches of different denominations, and several large and well-kept hotels. Tho city is lip:hted with gas, and furnished with pure water. The Oakwood Cemetery, situated in the south part of the city, is well worthy of a visit. g4 WESTERN TOUK. PRINCIPAL HOTELS IN SYEACUSE. Globe Hotel Ira Garrison Opposite Railroad Depot. Syracuse House. .Wm. D. Stewart. .Adjoining Railroad Depot. Voorhe(3S House .Sprague & Gage.. .North Salina Street. The Salt Springs, in Syracuse and its immediate vicinity, are of gmat importance to this place and surrounding country. They are owned by the State, from which a handsome yearly revenue is derived. There are within the ci% alone ten coarse and fine salt companies, manufacturing in the aggregate a very large amount of pure salt, of a superior quality. Besides the above works, there are a number of iron founderies and other large manufacturing establishments. The railroad facilities are also a very important feature to the prosperity of Syracuse. In addition to the New Fork Cen- tral Railroad, passing through the center of the city, hpre com- mences the Syracuse. Binghamton. and Ne>M York Railroad, and the Syracuse and Oswego Railroad, the latter communicating with Lake Ontario. 35 miles distant, in a northerly direction. There are also three city railroads. The traveler, on going west from Syracuse to Rochester, Buffalo, or Niagara Falls', h :b the choice of three routes or modes (.f conveyaHce, viz. : by railroad, ma Auburn, Geneva, Canandaigua, etc., 104 miles to Rochester; or proceed by direct ronle, 81 miles; or still another route, by proceeding to Oswego, 35 miles, by railroad, and then taking a steamer for Rochester or Lewiston, and thence to Niagara Falls, passing over Lake Ontario. Geddes is an incorporated village, 2 miles west of Syracuse, on the Erie Canal, and within the bounds of the Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation. The most considerable business of the place is the manufacture of salt. Liverpool is another village principally engaged in the manufacture of salt. It stands near the northeasterly shore of Onondaga Lake, and on the line of the Oswego Canal, about 6 miles from Syracuse. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants, Liverpool and Geddes are all included in the town of Salina, WESTERN TOUR. 85 and witliin the limits of the Onondaga Salt Spi-ings Reserva- tion; and though the original Keservation included a much larger extent of surface than is occupied by these villages, yet these are the only portions of it within which the making of salt is carried on, the State having sold to private citizens the whole of the Reservation not included within these villages, as well as a very large part of what is included within theix bounds. Salt was first made on this tract at Salt Point, near the margin of Onondaga Lake, and within the bounds of Sahna village. The manufacture, in very trifling quantities, at that point, was carried on by the Indians prior to the appearance of any white man among them, as it was by the white men also, at a very early period of their settlement in that vicinity. The eaidiest systematic arrangements, so far as records show, for making salt, to any important extent, at that place, date as far back as 1787, when works were erected which produced 10 bushels daily—a very insignificant quantity when compared with the present extent and productiveness of the works on the Reservation. The fine salt, which is so called from the small size of its crystals, is produced by the agency chiefly of artificial heat, and the process of evaporation is carried on by boiling the brine in large iron kettles. The coaise salt is produced ex- clusively by evaporation in the open air. It is sometimes termed solar salt, and the crystals are large. This salt is the purest muriate of soda known to commerce. The dairy salt is so called from the particularly neat and convenient manner in which it is prepared and boxed for use in dairies. The State of New York, as the proprietor of these salines, receives a duty of one cent a bushel on all the salt inspected on the Resjervation, and the works are erected under written leases of the ground for specific terms of years, for making the fine salt ; and under licenses, somewhat of the character of conditional grants, for making the coarse salt; but both are gratuitous, the duty being substituted for rent. WESTERN TOUR FROM SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER AXD BUFFALO. Camillus, 8 miles "vrest of Syracuse, is situated on the line cf the New York Central Railroad. It contains about 600 inhabitants. . The village of Jordan is situated on the Erie' Canal, 19 miles west of Syracuse. It was incorporated in 1835, and now contains about 1,300 inhabitants. A railroad is contemplated from this place to Skaneateles, from which a branch road, already constructed to the Auburn and Syracuse Railroad, is a part of the contemplated work. Skaneateles, 5 miles south of the line of the New York Central Railroad, is delightfully situated at the foot of Skan- eateles Lake. It was incorporated in 1833, and now contains about 1,500 inhabitants. The lake, 15 miles long, and from half a mile to a mile wide, is a beautiful sheet of water, sur- rounded by well-cultivated farms and country residences, and celebrated for its fine trout, which are taken in great abund- ance, weighing from 5 to 10 pounds. The City of Auburn is situated on the outlet of Owasco Lake, 26 miles west of Syracuse and 8 miles south of the Erie Canal. It was chartered in 1848, and contained in 1860 10,986 inhabitants, 1,200 dwelling-bouses, a court-house, jail, and county clerk's office. The Auburn State Prison, on the north Bide of the Owasco outlet, a splendid edifice of the kind, was founded in 1816, and cost over half a million of dollars. Here are inclosed 10 acres of land, surrounded by a solid stone wall, from 16 to 40 feet in height and 3 feet thick. The main building, facing the east, is 8 stories high, besides the base- ment, surmounted by a turreted cupola, in which is an alarm bell. The wings are of two stories, the whole front being 276 feet long, and the wings 242 deep by 45 feet wide, inclosing on three sides a court in the rear, about 190 feet square. The cells in the interior are built within the exterior front, are 5 stories high, surrounded by galleries. There are 770 of these WESTERN TOUR. 87 separate cells, each cell being 7 feet long, 3| feet wide, 7| feet high, and calculated to accommodate one prisoner during hia relaxation from labor. In addition to the cells, the main building contains a chapel, a hospital, dining-room for the prisoners, cooking apartments, and store rooms ; besides apart- ments in the main front building, used as offices for the clerk and agent, anl for the residence of the principal keeper. Here are now about 700 convicts, mostly engaged in different kinds of mechanical pursuits, carried on in workshops and under large sheds within the outside prison walls. The Auburn The.olog,ical Seminary is a large stone edifice, 4 stories high above the basement, and will be 200 feet front, when fully completed as designed. OwAsco Lakk, a few miles southeast of Auburn, is 12 miles long and about 1 mile wide, being celebrated for its pictur- esque scenery. The water is very transparent, abounding in fish, and the banks rather rugged. Weedsport, 21 miles west of Syracuse, and 8 miles north of Auburn, is on the Erie Canal. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains about 1,200 inhabitants. Port Byko.n, 3 miles west of the above place, and on the line of the New York Central Railroad {direct route), was in- corporated in 1837, and now contains about 1,700 inhabitants. Here is an extensive flouring mill, with 12 run of stones, and other manufacturing establishments. MoNTizuMA, 205 miles from Albany, by canal route, is situated at the junction of the Cayuga and Seneca Canal with the Erie Canal. It contains about 700 inhabitants, 1 church, 3 taverns, and 5 stores. Here are a number of saline springs, from which salt has been manufactured ever since the earliest settlement of this part of the country, and the salt is of the best and purest quality. " The specific gravity of this brine is 1.09767; and 1,000 parts of it contain 129.33 parts of dry solid matter, or 12.93, in 100 parts of brine. This is within 88 WESTERN TOUR. one per cent, of the strength of much of the brine noTV worked in Onondaga County." The village of Cayuga, 10 miles west of Auburn, is situated on the east bank of Cayuga Lake ; it contains about 400 in- habitants, 50 dwelling-houses, 1 church, 2 taverns, and 3 stores. Here the celebrated " Cayuga Bridge" crosses tb^ lake, which is upward of a mile wide; a new bridge has also been here erected for the New York Central Railroad, still longer. A steamboat runs from this place to Ithaca, a dis- tance of 40 miles. Tourists traveling for pleasure are recommended to deviate south on their arrival at the foot of Cayuga Lake, and make the pleasant TOUR OF THE CAYUGA LAKE. Cayuga Lake, which constitutes one of the Central Lakes of New York, is 40 miles long and from 1 to 4 miles wide. It lies between the counties of Cayuga and Seneca, extending some 10 or 12 miles into Tompkins County. This lake, which is very deep, is navigated by steamboats from Cayuga Bridge to the village of Ithaca, stopping at the intermediate landings. It is a most beautiful sheet of water, surrounded by well-culti- vated farms and thriving villages, and abounds with salmon trout, white fish, pike, pickerel, perch, and catfish. On sev- eral of the inlets to this lake, toward the south, are most beautiful and picturesque water-faUs, well worthy the atten- tion of the lovers of natural scenery. The outlet flows north into Seneca River, and thence into Lake Ontario. The traveler has now one of the pleasantest paths of jour- neying before him. He finds at the wharf, at East Caj'uga — • or, as the station is known on all the routes, C(tyns,a Bridge — a beautiful steamboat, the " Kate Morgan," and in this his WESTERN TOUR. 89 transit over the clear and healthful waters of this lake is to be made. The old bridge, cotemporaneous with the century, ia almost among the relics of another day; and yet it was a famous thoroughfare in its time. It was memorable as a dividing barrier in old political times, opposing majorities fre- quently testing the strength of numbers on these lines. Cayuga village is mostly upon the hill. The station-house has clustered a group of buildings around it, but the traffic of the country around finds its way to the upper street. A neat church, lately renovated, gives a pleasant appearance to the height, its steeple being conspicuous far up the lake. Here was in the days of coach and wagon a wonderful gathering of travelers, and many hours have passed away here, while team and men gathered strength to go into the plunge on bad roads. The Old Bridge is a mile and some rods in length. It is now a solitude compared to its former activity. The Central Railroad crosses on a separate bridge, and has in part pro- tected its way by luxuriant willows. The boat now proceeds on its way to Ithaca. It takes a course near the east shore, as its first landing is at the village of Springport. For the first six miles the Cayuga is not deep. The depth in some spots is considerable, but not over 15 or 20 feet. In approaching Springport, at the right hand, is seen FuoNTENAC Island, the only island in the lake, and a beautiful locality it is. It was ceded by the State in 1856 to the village of Springport, as a pleasure-ground, and the citizens, under the intelligent lead of Mr. John J. Thomas, have improved and tastefully arranged its surface. Mr. Street, the State Librarian, one of the most original and delightful poets of this land, has written some beautiful stanzas on the theme of this island. It was the men- tion of this locality by A. B. Street, in his poem of " Frontenac," published by Bentley, of London, which induced this name to be given. Springport is a neat village, of about 1,100 inhabitants, active and industrious. The houses are tasteful, and some of 8* ^0 WESTERN TOUR the upper streets deserve special notice. Its chief feature ig the celebrated spring which issues out of the earth on the very margin of the lake ; but at just height enough to give a suffi- cient and enduring water-power. There are also abundant quarries of limestone, of excellent material for building or for plaster. The traveler can notice on the hill-side, immediately at the north of the island, a superb stone mansion, of unusual beauty and value, the property of Robert W. Howland, for- merly of New Bedford, This house is worthy of a visit, as among the first class of rural residences This village is the residence of Mr. J. J. Thomas, a celebrated agricultural writer. After making its landing here, the boat proceeds, skirting the eastern shore, and passing a part of the lake where the variety of points and little indentations give peculiar pictur- esqueness to the sail. The boat next lands at LsvANNA, a small post-hamlet, 10 miles from the bridge. Just before reaching this, the tourist will see on the east bank the residence of William R. Grinnell. Ingleskle is one of the most agreeable farms in the State, and, as it slopes from its ample and handsome dwelling to the water, gives at a glance a rural picture scarcely surpassed. From Levanna the boat sails onward beneath cliffs that, by their abrupt vine-covered steeps, break the line of the shore, till, in a distance of 2 miles (liJ from Cayuga Bridge). Aurora is the next reached. Aurora has tasteful dwellings and well- cultivated gardens to an extent which would repay the tourist to remain there a few hours. Its one long street is directly on the water side, and heavy, dark stone sea walls are the protection of the soil against its storms These gardens have tasteful appendages of -summer houses, and hedges, and floral cultivation, so that a sail along the shore furnishes many pretty incidents. The dwellings of Henry jNlorgau and of Henry Wells, by their situ- ation and their value, attract notice at once. The gardens of many of the citizens 1 ave been planned and cultivated with unusual nicety and attention to good taste. WESTERN TOUR. 91 The village terminates at the south in the valuable farm of Richard Hale, of the New York Journal of Commerce. The center of the view in the village is the Academy and Library Hall. The latter contains, besides its thousands of volumes, a capital full-length portrait of Governor Seward, by Elliot, one of the most distinguished of limners. Leaving Aurora, the boat passes by two picturesque points, Rocky and Osborne's Points, and after this the boat pursues its way to the western side of the lake. At Sheldrake Point the tourist will see a very pretty hamlet, the superb farm directly south of which was one of the localities which received much support as the proper site for the State Agricultural College. At this landing travelers des- tined for Ovid and the Agricultural College are landed. Then follows in succession Kidder's Ferry and Trumansburgh Landing. Tliis latter is the point for a large and enterprising village, a mile to the westward, whose citizen. Herman Camp, is so well known in the annals of benevolent effort. Goodwin's Point is the landing for those who would visit the Taghanic Fall, the fairest, loveliest fall in all the country. Its crystal vail, as it wreathes itself in that vast gorge, is a pic- ture of beauty worth all the journey. The eulogy here given to this fall all who visit it will affirm. It has no equal in its blending of the lovely water with the gloomy gorge At the east side of the lake there is a landing for the Ridge road, and a very convenient one it is. Then the boat, after making a landing for the village of Ludlowville, proceeds to Ithaca, the end of its route. Ithaca is a large, prosperous town, whose beauty and en- terprise gratifies the good sense of the Dewitt's, who originated it. It has all the accessories of a large population, and is just such a home as those who enjoy life there may felicitate them- selves on possessing. Here will be found several well-kept hotels, and much beautiful scenery. 92 WESTERN TOUR. THE LAKES OF WESTERI^ ^^EW YORK. Oneida Lake is a large and important sheet of water, sur- roimded by the counties of Oneida, Madison, Onondaga, and ^Oswego, It is 22 miles long, and from 4 to 6 miles wide. It vocsives Wood Creek and its tributaries on the east, Oneida Creek and Chittenango Creek on the south, besides some smaller streams. On the east end of the lake there is a beautiful shelving beach, which is much resorted to for fishing with seines. White fish, pike, pickerel, perch, and catfish are caught in great abundance The north shore is remarkable for its bold and picturesque beauty. This lake, in connection with its outlet into Oswego River, forms an important channel of trade, there being a branch canal of 6 miles in length at its east end, connecting with the Erie Canal, thus forming a con- nection with the Oswego Canal, which runs from Syracuse to Oswego, along the east bank of Oswego River. Oneida Lake, in connection with Wood Creek and Seneca River, in early days formed an important channel of water communication from east to west, being navigated by a small class of vessels or boats running through to Seneca Lake. Skaneateles Lake lies partly between the counties of Cayuga and Onondaga. It is 15 miles long, and from half a mile to one mile wide. This is a beautiful and romantic sheet of water ; on the north it is surrounded by highly cultivated farms and country residences, while on the south the banks are more rugged and the scenery very picturesque and roman- tic. It is also highly celebrated for its fine trout, which are taken in great abundance, weighing from 5 to 10 pounds. Onondaga Lake is situated in the northern part of this county. It is about 7 miles long, and from 2 to 3 miles wide. This lake abounds in pike, pickerel, bass, and catfish. On its banks are the city of Syracuse and the villages of Geddes and Liverpool. Many have supposed that the water at the bottom of this lake was salt, from the fact that the salt springs are WESTERN TOUR. 93 located on its borders ; but. from experiments made some two or three years since, it has been ascertained that such is not the fact Otisco Lake lies in the western part of Onondaga County, and is about 5 miles long by 2 miles "wide. This is a beautiful slieet of water, and the scenery about it in many places truly romantic. Its outlet flows south into Onondaga Lake. Cazenovia Lake is a small but beautiful sheet of water, situated in the town of the same name. It is 4 miles long by 1 mile in width, abounding with different kinds of fish. OwAsco Lake, situated in Cayuga County, is 12 miles long and about 1 mile wide, abounding with trout and other fish of fine flavor. The water is very transparent, and the banks rather rugged, being celebrated for its picturesque scenery. Cayuga Lake, whicli constitutes one of the central lakes of New York, is 40 miles long and from 1 to 05 miles wide. It lies between the counties of Cayuga and Seneca, extending some 10 or 12 miles into Tompkins County. This lake, whieh is very deep, is navigated by steamboats from Cayuga Bridge to the village of Ithaca, stopping at the intermediate landings. It is a most beautiful sheet of water, surrounded by highly cultivated farms and thriving villages, abounding in salmon trout, white fish, pike, pickerel, perch, and catfish. On several of the inlets to this lake, toward the south, are most beautiful and picturesque water-falls, well worthy the attention of the lovers of natural scenery. The outlet flows north into Seneca River, near where it is crossed by two bridges, each upward of a mile in length — one being a toll-bridge, known as the Cayuga Bridgt, and the other a new bridge, erected by the old Auburn and Ptochester Railroad Company. (See page 88.) Skneca Lakk is one of the largest, as well as the most beautiful, of the numerous lakes which so much adorn Western New York. It extends from south to north 40 miles and varies in width from 2 to 4 miles. It is very deep, and. in consequence, is never frozen. The depth is not accurately known, but was found a year or two ago to be about 560 feet 94 WESTERN TOUR. about 12 miles above the outlet. The water is very clear, and at a considerable depth below the surface of course cool; it is sometimes brought up for drinking by letting down a corked bottle, till it reaches a depth at which the pressure of the water forces in the cork, and fills it. The lands about the southern or upper extremity of the lake are high and pictur- esque ; about the northern less elevated, but undulating, and covered with the richest crops, with here and there remains of the magnificent primitive forest. The outlet of the lake is at the northeastern angle, and the discharge of water furnishes an ample supply of power to the manufactories of Waterloo and Seneca Falls, which flourishing villages are situated, the former about 6, and the latter 10 miles from the lake. Seneca Lake receives the waters of Crooked Lake at Dresden, about 12 miles above Geneva. The outlet of Crooked Lake is about 6 miles in length, and the descent to Seneca Lake about 270 feet. A canal constructed along this outlet connects the two lakes. Seneca Lake does not so much abound with fish as some of the other lakes, probably in consequence of the depth and coldness of its waters. There are found in it, however, white-fish, pike, pickerel, trout, perch, herring, rock-bass, Striped bass, chub, sunfish, catfish, ©els, shiners, mullet, etc. A steamer runs on this lake, summer and winter, for the conveyance of passengers. Canandaigua Lakk is a most beautiful sheet of water, 14 miles long, and from 1 to I5 miles wide, lying mostly in the county of Ontario, and a small part in Yates County. It is surrounded by highly cultivated lands, justly celebrated for their fertility, diversified by charming scenery. Its waters, which are deep and clear, abound with fish of different kinds, and are elevated 670 feet above the Atlantic Ocean. Canan- daii^ua Outlet flows northeast into Flint Creek, then into Clyde and Seneca River, all of which are important mill-streams. The steamer "Joseph Wood" runs from the village of Canan- daigua to the head of the lake, londing at Cheshire, Oorham, Middlesex, and South Bristol. Stages run from the landing at WESTERN TOUR. 95 the head of the lake to Blood's, on the Buffalo, Corning, and New York Railroad, connecting at Corning with the New York and Erie Railroad. Crooked Lake, by the Indians called Keuka, lies partly in the county of Steuben and partly in Yates. It is 22 miles in length, averaging I5 miles in width, running nearly north and south. The waters of this lake are 270 feet above Seneca Lake, with which it is connected by an outlet and canal. It abounds in salmon trout, white fish, pickerel, perch, sunfish, bass, and catfish. Its waters are cool and transparent, and from 3 to 500 feet in depth. At Bluff Point, 9 miles north of the head of the lake, it is divided by a high promontory, ex- tending on the east to near the village of Penn-Yan, a farther distance of 13 miles, while the northern branch extends 9 miles to Branchport. A steamboat for the conveyance of passengers and towing plies daily from Hammondsport to Penn-Yan, affording a fine view of the lake and adjacent country. Chatjtauque Lake, lying in the county of Chautauque, N. Y., its head being within 8 miles of Lake Erie, is a most remarkable and beautiful sheet of water, and deserves a notice, although its waters flow south into the Allegany River, and thence into the Gulf of Mexico. It is 18 miles in length, and in breadth varies from 2 to 3 miles, except near the middle, where it contracts to a few rods. It is navigable for steam- boats from Mayville, at its head, to the foot of the lake, thence by its outlet to the Connewango Creek. This lake is elevated 72G feet above the surface of Lake Erie, and 1,291 feet above the Atlantic Ocean, being the highest body of water in the Union on which a steamer floats. Extract from a JVew York paper, dated September, 1856. The starting of a new steamboat on Chautauque Lake, between Jamestown and Mayville, the county seat, is quite an event with us. This lake is eighteen miles long and three miles wide. It is a beautiful sheet of water, directly in the center of the county, which it adorns as gracefully as any jewel its settings It is seven hundred feet higher than Lake Erie, though the distance between the two lakes is only seven 96 WESTERN TOUR. or eight miles. Chautauqvie Lake is the highest water navi- gated by steam in the State of New York. The little steam- boat which plies daily between .Jamestown and IMayville is called the " C. C. Dknnis." The ride on this boat to Mayville, and thence over the ridge which divides the two lakes to West- field, is one of the most interesting' and romantic in the coun- try. Jamestown is situated four miles from Chautauque Lrike, and on its outlet. The outlet is a deep, sluggish stream, shaded on both sides by a heavy forest of tamaracks, and hedged in by an undergrowth of shrubbery, so dense that the view is completely intercepted. The ride througli the graceful windings of the outlet, reposing so quietly in the bosom of such luxuriant vegetation, reminds one of the accoants we often read of the scenery of tropical regions. The shores of the lake present no bluffs, but they slope back gradually from the water's edge, and are covered with fine farms. You leave the steamer at Maysville, and take the stage for Westfield. A ride of about 2 miles brings ^ou to the summit of the ridge which iivides the lakes, and here a most magnificent panorama is opened to your view. A few miles distant, and 700 feet below ^ou, Lake Erie stretches its blue expanse toward Canada and ■uffalo, which you can almost see. It is dotted over mth the hited canvas of sailing vessels, from which you may now and then distinguish a steamer by its long trail of smoke. At the foot of the hill on which you stand lies the beautiful village of Westfield. in the midst of a rich and fertile country. Behind you lies Lake Chautauque, which looks like Lake Erie in miniature. There is a barn on the ridge, the water falling on the eaves of which run one way through Lake Chautauque and the Allegany and Ohio rivers to the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico, and on the other side to Lake Erie and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The village of Seneca Falls, 16 miles west of Auburn, and 190 miles from Albany, by railroad route, is advantageously situated on both sides of the outlet of Seneca Lake. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains about 7,000 inhabi- tants, 800 dwelling-houses, 7 churches of different denomina- tions, 1 cotton factory, and 8 flouring mills. In this neighbor- hood are large quantities of gypsum, which is here ground and sent to different parts of the country. The Cayuga and Seneca Canal and the Auburn and Rochester iiailroad pass through WESTERN TOUR. 97 this Tillage. The water-power afforded by the Seneca outlet is very great ; the descent from Seneca to Cayuga Lake, a dis- tance of 12 miles, being about 75 feet. The stream is abun- dant, and not subject to freshets, scarcely ever having a rise to exceed two feet ; the hydraulic power is great, and is but partially employed. At Seneca Falls there is a descent of up- ward of 40 feet within the distance of one mile. Here are five locks in the Cayuga and Seneca Canal, which unites with the Erie Canal at ]\Iontezuma. Waterloo, 193 miles west of the city of Albany, is hand- eomely situated on both sides of the outlet of Seneca Lake, which is in part used as the Cayuga and Seneca Canal. It was incorporated in 1824, and now contains about 5,000 inhabi- tants, GOO dwelling-houses, a court-house and jail, being a balf-shire town with Ovid ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Bap- tist, and 1 Methodist church ; an academy, 8 hotels and tav- erns, 1 banking house, 25 dry goods, grocery, apd other stores ; 1 large woolen factory, which manufactures over 200,000 pounds of wool annually, and 5 flouring mills, containing 18 run of stone. The fall of water at this place is about 16 feet. In the immediate vicinity are quarried large quantities of limestone, extensively used for building. In addition to the Cayuga and Seneca Canal, the New York Central, or Auburn and Rochester Railroad, passes through this village, which is about equidistant between Cayuga and Seneca lakes. Geneva, 52 miles west of Auburn, and 200 miles from Albany, via New York Central Railroad, is beautifully situ- ated near the foot, or north end, of Seneca Lake, on the west- ern side. The principal part of the village, which is devoted to the residences of the inhabitants, lies upon a ridge along the banks of the lake, and elevated about 100 feet above the Burface, while the business part extends to the plain which lies at the foot of the lake, and but little elevated. The land west of the village is peculiarly formed, consisting of a succession of ridges parallel to the lake, and rising higher and higher for some distance, commanding a view of its waters, as if formed 9 98 WESTERN TOUR. for choice residences in this region of beanly. The village was incorporated in 1812, and now contains about 5,000 inhabi- tants and 800 dwelling-houses. The Geneva College, attached to which are three buildings, and the Geneva Lyceum, are located here, and 8 churches of different denominations. The new Episcopal church is a splendid edifice, erected at a cost of about $30,000. The accommodation for strangers at Geneva is very good, there being several well-kept hotels; and car- riages are always in readiness at the railroad depot and steam- boat landing, to convey passengers to any part of the village. Two or three steamboats ply regularly on the lake, running daily up and down between Geneva and the village of Jefferson at the head of the lake, connecting with stages to Elmira and Corning, and at the latyter place with the railroad to the cities of New York and Philadelphia. A boat is employed in towing canal boats, which come to Geneva by the Cayuga and Seneca Canal, a branch of the Erie Canal, and thence to the villages on the lake, and to the canal which connects this lake with Crooked Lake, and the Chemung Canal, leading from Jeiferson to the Chemung River at Elmira, and by the feeder to Corning. The meridian of the capital at Washington passes through the lake about half a mile east of Geneva. Geneva, or Hobart, College received its charter in 1825, and is a flourishing institution. The college buildings, three in number, are beautifully situated on Main Sti-eet, overlooking Seneca Lake. A large and handsome building is about being erected on the same street for the use of the medical department. Clyde, 186 miles from Albany, via the New York Central Railroad, is a flourishing town, situated on the line of the Erie Canal, containing about 1,800 inhabitants. It is proposed to construct a canal from this place to Lake Ontario. Lyons, 16 miles north of Geneva, is eligibly situated on the Erie Canal, 193 miles west of Albany by (linct route. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains about 3,200 inhabi- WESTERN TOUR. 09 tants, 450 dwelling-houses, a court-house and ja!l, county clerk's and surrogate's ofi&ce; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Baptist, and 1 Lutheran church. Stages leave Lyons daily for Geneva on the south, and Sodus Point on the north, situated on the north shore of Lake Ontario. Ni:w.\RK, 7 miles west of Lyons, on the Erie Canal, is an active place of business, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants. Palmyra, 15 miles west of Lyons, and 206 from Albany, was incorporated in 1828, and now contains about 2,400 in- habitants. It is situated on an elevated and dry piece of ground, in the midst of a delightful wheat-growing country. The main street is over one mile and a quarter in length, and at each end touches the canal ; it is intersected by cross streets of ample width, many of which are ornamented by beautiful shade trees. On leaving Geneva, going west by railroad, you incline to the north, passing through a fine section of country, for which the county of Ontario is justly celebrated. • Vienna, 8 miles from Geneva, is a flourishing place, on tho outlet of the Canandaigua Lake, at the junction of Flint Creek. There are two settlements about one mile apart, known as East Vienna and West Vienna. Clifton Springs, 3 miles west of Vienna, are resorted to for their medicinal properties, and have become somewhat celebrated. They are sulphur springs, of a similar character to many others to be found in Western New York. Here is a large and commodious public house, for the accommodation of visitors. '• This place is admirably situated, remote from the noise and dust of large villages or cities, embracing a beautiful grove of forest trees, as its pleasure-grounds, from the midst of which flow its sprin'^s of pure and healthful water, so disposed by nature as to please and interest the visitor, and render it a desirable retreat, whether for those seeking a restorative from disease, those who have a few leisure days or weeks to spend iu 100 WESTKRN TOUR. recreation and pleasure, or for those who, with their families, are disposed to leave the heated walls of a city residence to enjoy the refreshing breezes and pure atmosphere of the coun- try, during the warm season." The waters, which are mainly of a sulphurous character, charged somewhat with soda, magnesia, and carbonic gas, stand unsurpassed in their medicinal character, as a remedy for the various skin diseases, rheumatic affections, dyspepsia, general debility of the system, etc., and have effected cures in cases where the waters of other springs have failed. Canandaigua is delightfully situated near the foot of Can- andaigua Lake, 223 miles west of Albany by railroad. It was incorporated in 1815, and now contains about 5,000 inhabi- tants, 800 dwelling-houses, a courthouse, jail, surrogate's office, county clerk's office, and town-house ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist, and 1 African church ; 2 banking houses and a savings' bank. No place in the State probably exceeds this village as a desirable place of residence, being surrounded by a rich agricultural district, abounding in almost every luxury for which Western JVew York is so justly celebrated. On the south, at a short distance, lies Canan- daigua Lake, with its cultivated shores, in full view of this abode of taste and opulence. The village of Victor is 9 miles west of Canandaigua, and a little to the north of the railroad. PiTTSFORD, 12 miles farther, is on the line of the Erie Canal, near its intersection with the railroad. It was incor- porated in 1827, and now contains about^TOO inhabitants. Brighton, 4 miles east of Kochester, is also on the hne of the Erie Canal. The City of Rochester, 230 miles west from Albany, and 68 miles east of Buffalo, by railroad route, is advantageously situated on both sides of the Genesee River, and on the line of the Erie Canal, 7 miles south of Lake Ontario, with which the WESTERN TOUR. lOt Genesee River affords good water comnmnication for steam- boats and schooners from the hmding, 2 miles below the center of the city. It was chartered in 1834:, and is now divided into 9 wards, being governed by a mayor, recorder, and board of arldermeu. It contained in 18G0 48,20i inhabitants, mostly engaged in mercantile and manufacturing pursuits; a new city hall and court-house; a jail and county clerk's office; a surrogate's office ; 2 public markets ; gasworks; waterworks; 10 banking houses; 3 savings' banks; 1 mutual insurance company ; 5 Presbyterian churches, 4 Episcopal, 3 Baptist, 4 Methodist, 6 Koman Catholic, 1 Unitarian, 1 Univeisalist, 1 Covenanters, 1 Lutheran, 2 Friends' meeting houses, and 2 African churches ; 2 orphan asylums ; a collegiate institute ; 4 female seminaries, and 16 public schools. The hotels are numerous, and most of them well kept, affording every desir- able luxury. The Osburn House is a new and extensive hotel edifice, situated on the corner of Main and St. Paul streets. The Rochester University is a new institution of learning, under the charge of the Baptist denomination. Here also is situated, on the north part of the city, the House of Refuge for Western New York, now containing about 400 inmates. The building is a large and substantial brick edifice, sur- rounded by a high stone Avail. To the immense water-power which Rochester possesses, by means of a succession of falls in the Genesee River, may be justly ascribed her rapid growth and substantial wealth There are now within the limits of the city, and all using water-power, 21 tiouring-mills, with 108 run of stones, capable of manufacturing 600,000 barrels of flour annually ; 3 woolen factories, 2 cotton factories, 11 iron founderies and machine shops, 2 brass founderies, 3 papor-mills, 2 oil-mills, 7 saw- mills, 1 pail factory, 3 pump factories, 2 edge tool factories, 2 threshing-machine and fanning-mill factories, 1 chair factory, 2 case factories, 2 stair manufactories, 3 sash factories, 4 tan- neries, 3 distilleries, 6 breweries, 4 tobacco and snuff factories, and 4 steam-planing and flooring mills. Within the limits of 9* 102 WESTERN TOUR. the city, a distance of 3 miles, the total fall of water in the river is about 250 feet, affording during most of the year an almost inexhaustible supply of water-power, which is as yet but partly used for manufacturing purposes. Here are about 20 forwarding establishments connected with the trade of the Erie and Genesee Valley canals, the latter running south through the rich A'^alley of the Genesee River. There is also a limited shipping interest on the Genesee River and Lake Ontario. A great number of canal boats have been built at Rochester, there being no less than 11 boat-yards for their construction. Railroad cars and carriage-making are also extensively carried on here to advantage. American and British steamboats arrive and depart daily, during the season of navigation, from the landing on the north of the city, and from Charlotte, at the mouth of the river, 7 miles distant, to where a plank road is now constructed, afford- ing a most delightful ride during pleasant weather. Railroad cars and canal packets arrive and depart almost hourly. No traveler for pleasure should pass through Rochester without stopping over at least one day to see the city and visit the objects of interest in its vicinity, the natural and artificial curiosities being well worthy of notice. The most important of them are the Genesee Falls, which are seen to great advan- tage from the east side of the river, a short distance below the railroad bridge, where is a perpendicular descent of 96 feet ; 2 miles below is another fall of 75 feet. The noble aqueduct for the enlai-ged Erie Canal is a splendid specimen of mason work, well worthy of examination. The above, together with Alount Hope Cemetery, most beautifully situated on the east side of the River, about 2 miles south of the city, afford many points of attraction, well Avorthy the attention of the traveler. The Genesee Valley Canal commences at Rochester, and ascends the rich valley of the Genesee, being now completed a distance of 88 miles, with a branch to Dansvillc, of 1 2 miles. The Rochester and Genesee Valley Railroad is now com- pleted to Mount Morris, 36 miles, passing through the village WESTERN TOUR. 103 of Avon, connecting with a line of travel to Bufifalo on the west and the city of New York on the east. The most noted place of resort in the valley of the Genesee is Avon Springs, 18 miles south of Rochester. The village is delightfully situated about half a mile east of the right bank of tlie Genesee River, and 2 miles from the Genesee Valley Canal, on an elevated terrace, about one hundred feet above the river, commanding an extensive prospect of the rich Genesee Valley and surrounding country. Connected with the village, on the southwest, are the justly famed medicinal springs, giving celebrity to the place. The two principal springs are distinguished as the Upper and Lower Springs, distant from each other about 80 rods. They possess similar properties, differing only in the relative quantities of the same mineral ingredients. Analysis and experience have fully tested the sanative properties of these waters. They are found peculiarly efhcacious in disorders of the digestive organs, rheumatic complaints, and gout, in all sorts of cutaneous affections, and in every kind of obstructions. There are several well-kept hotels, both at the village and near the Springs. The most noted are the Avon Eagle Hotel, the Avon Hotel or Ilosmer House, the Knickerbocker Hall, and the Spring Hotel. The two latter are situated near the Springs, the two former in the village. The accommodations for bathing are also extensive and handsomely arranged, there being three establishments, altogether affording great attrac- tions not only for the invalid but for the seeker of pleasure. 104 WESTERN TOUR. Rx\ILROAD ROUTE FllOM ROi CHESTER TO BUFFALO. The JVevj York Central Railroad extends west from Roch- ester, through the villages of Churchville and Bergen, forming the great eastern and western thoroughfare from the ^\tlantic Ocean to the Great Lakes of America. B\TAviA, 32 miles west of Rochester, 36 east from Buffalo, and 262 from Albany, by railroad route, is pleasantly situated on a plain, thi-ough which flows the Tonawanda Creek. It waa incorporated in 1823, and now contains about 3,000 inhabi- tants, 400 dwelling-houses, a couit-house, jail, and county clerk's office, a State arsenal, and the general land office of the Holland Land Company. In addition to the New York Central Railroad, the Canandaigua and Niagara Falls Railroad, and the Buffalo, New York, and Erie Railroad, also pass through Batavia, affording great facilities to reach Albanj-, New York, Philadelphia, etc. Stages run from Batavia south to Warsaw; und north to Albion and Lockport. The village of Attica, 11 miles from Batavia, and on the Tonawanda Creek, is pleasantly situated. It is an active place of business, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. The Buffalo and J\'iW York City Railroad passes through this village, con- necting with the New York and Erie Railroad at Hornellsville. RAILROAD ROUTE FROM ROCHESTER TO ]\'IAGARA FALLS BRorKPORT, 17 miles west of Rochester, and 246 by railroad from Albany, is handsomely situated on the Erie Canal. It was incorporated in 1829, and now contains about 2,200 inhabi- tants and 300 dwelling-houses. The village of Holley, 5 miles west of Brockport, contains about 700 inhabitants. Sandy Creek flows through this place, gvtr which the canal passes by means of an embankment, 75 WESTERN TCUR. 105 feet above the bed of the stream, which is conveyed under it by a culvert. Albion, on the Erie Canal, 30 miles from Rochester, and 250 miles from Albany, by railroad route, was incorporated in 1829, and now contains about S,800 inhabitants, 500 dwelling- houses, a court-house, jail, and county clerk's office ; 2 banking houses; an incorporated academy, and Phipps' Female Semi- nary, both in a flourishing condition, to each of which are attached large brick edifices. The village of Gainks, 1 or 2 miles north of Albion, and on the Ridge Road, was incorporated in 1832, and now contains 600 or 700 inhabitants. The Alluvial. Way, or Ridge Road, is a work of nature, extending from the Genesee River, near Rochester, to the Nia- gara River, near Lewiston. It is a gently curving ridge, com- pos'jd of beach-sand and gravel- stones, apparently worn smooth by the action of water. Its general width is from 6 to 8 rods, raised in the middle, and the top presents an excellent road, called the " Ridge Road," extending upward of 80 miles, being from 6 to 10 miles south of the present shore of Lake Ontario, of which it once no doubt formed the beach. This same re- markable feature extends west to Hamilton, C. W., situated at the head of Lake Ontario. KivowLEsviLLE, 7 milcs west of Albion, is an incorporated village on the line of the Erie Canal, and contains about 500 inhabitants. Mkdina, 4 miles farther west, on the Erie Canal, was incor- porated in 1832, and now contains about 2,800 inhabitants, 250 dwelling-houses, and several mills and manufacturing establishments. MiDDLEPORT, 17 miles west of Albion, contains about 400 inhabitants. Gasport, 5 miles farther west, takes its name from several mineral burning springs of some celebrity, situated near the line of the canal. The gas is used for domestic purposes. The village of Locxport is on the Erie Canal, 25 milea 106 WESTERN TOUR. northeast of Buffalo, and fiom Albany, by railroad route, 285 miles. It was incorporated in 1827, and now contains about 11000 inhabitants, 1,200 dwelling-houses, a court-house, jail, and county clerk's office. The hydraulic power derived from the surplus waters of the Erie Canal at this place is sufficient to propel at least 300 run of mill-stones, and is admirably located for an extensive manu- facturing town. In addition to the Erie Canal, which passes through the center of the village, the Rochester, Lod.port, and JVla^ara Falls Railroad passes through this place, and runs to Niagara Falls, 20 miles ; the Lockport and Buffalo Railroad extends a distance of 25 miles to the city of Buffalo, affording a speedy communication for travelers visiting the Falls and Buffalo. Here are ten combined locks, constructed of lime- rock, in the most finished style of masonry, to accommodate the enlarged Erie Canal. On leaving Lockport for the West, passengers can proceed by railroad, direct to Buffalo, 25 miles, passing through Tona- wanda, or continue on by direct route to the Suspension Bridge, 20 miles. At the Suspension Bridge, or Niagara City, the New York Central Railroad cars connect with the trains running on the Buffalo, A^'iagara Falls, and Lcwiston Railroad, forming a through line of travel from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, on the American side of the Niagara River, length 28 miles, connect- ing with steamers running on Lake Ontario. The Erie and Ontario Railroad, on the Canada side of the river, extends from Chippewa to Niagara, C. W., length 17 miles ; also connecting with steamers running to Toronto and other ports on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. The Great Western Railway, of Canada, commencing at the Suspension Bridge, also connects with the New York Central Railroad, forming the great line of travel to Hamilton, Toronto, Detroit, the Upper Lakes, and the Far West WESTERN TOUR. 107 BUFFALO. This city possesses commanding advantages, being 22 miles above Niagara Falls, is distant from Albany 298 miles by rail- road, and about 350 miles by the line of the Erie Canal ; in N lat. 42^1 53', W. long. 78"* 55' from Greenwich. It is favor- ably situated for commerce at the head of Niagara Eiver, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the great chain of Upper Lakes, and is the point where the vast trade of these inland seas is coiurentrated. The harbor, formed of Buffalo Creek, lies nearly east and west across the southern part of the city, and is separated from the waters of Lake Erie by a peninsula between the creek and lake. This liarbor is a very secure one, and is of such capacity, that although steamboats, ships, and other lake craft, and canal-boats, to tlie number, in all, of from three to four hundred, have sometimes been as- sembled there for the transaction of the business of the lakes, yet not one-half part of the water accommodations has ever yet been occupied by the vast business of the great and grow- ing West. This is a great center for railroads running east, west, and south. Bu&ilo was first settled by the whites in 1801. In 1832 it was chartered as a city, being now governed by a mayor, re- corder, and board of twenty-six aldermen. Its population in 1830, according to the United States Census, was 8,668; in 1840, 12,213 ; and in 1850, 42,261. Since the latter period the limits of the city have been enlarged by taking in tiie town of Black Rock ; it is now divided into thirteen wards, and, according to the census of 1860, contained 81,130 in- habitants, being now the third city in point of size in the State of New York. The principal public buildings are a U. States custom-house and post-office ; city hall ; court-house and jail ; two theaters, and fifty churches of different denominations. Here are also eight banking-houses, four savings banks, and several fire and marine insurance companies. The principal Hotels are the American, and St. James Hotel, and the Mansion House, on Main Street. RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES FROM BUF- FALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, TORONTO, ETC. The most usual mode of conveyance from Buffalo to the Falla of Niagara, and thence to Lake Ontario, or into Canada, is by the BujfalOs jYiagara Falls and Lewiston Raihoad, 28 milea in length. It runs through Tonawanda, 11 miles; Niagara Falls, 22 miles ; Suspension Bridge, 24 miles, connecting with the G reat Western Railway of Canada, and terminates at Lewis- ton, the head of navigation on Niagara River, 28 miles. American and Canadian steamers of a large class leave Lewis- ton several times daily, for different ports on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. There is also another very desirable mode of conveyance, by Steamboat, descending the Niagara River, from Buffalo to Chippewa, C. W., thence by the Erie and Ontario Railroad, 17 miles in length ; passing in full view of the Falls, to the Clifton House, three miles below Chippewa; Suspension Bridge, five miles ; Queenston, eleven miles, tei'minating at Niagara, C. W.. thirty-five miles from Buffalo. A.S the Steamboat leaves Buffalo on the latter route, a fine view may be obtained of Lake Erie and both shores of Niagara River. On the Canada side, the first object of interest are tiie ruins of old Fonx Erie, captured by the Americans July 8d, 1814. It is situated at the foot of the lake, opposite the site of a 10 no BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. Strong fortress which the United States government have recent- ly erected for the protection of the river and the city of Buifalo. Waterloo, C. W., three miles below Buffalo and opposite Black Rock (now a part of Buffalo), with which it is connected by a steam-ferry, is handsomely situated on the west side of Niagara River, which is here about half a mile wide. The Buffalo and Lake Huron Railroad runs from Fort Erie. n«ar Waterloo, to Paris, C. W., where it connects with the Great Western Railway of Canada. It is now completed to Stratford, 116 miles, will soon be finished to Goderich, lying on L. Huron. Grand Island, belonging to the United States, is passed on the right in descending the river. It is a large and valuable tract of good land, abounding with white oak of a superior quality Navy Island, belonging to the British, is next passed, lying within gunshot of the mainland. This island obtained great notoriety in the fall and winter of 1837-8, when it was occupied by the " Patriots," as they were styled, during the troubles in Canada. The steamer Caroline was destroyed on the night of December 29th, 1837, while lying at Schlosser's Landing, on the American shore, having been engaged in transporting persons to and from the island, which was soon after evacuated. Opposite Navy Island, on the Canada side, near Chippewa bat- tle-ground, is the house in which Capt. Usher resided when mur- dered in 1838. It is supposed he fell by the hands of some of the deluded patriots, having been shot by a secret foe, while in his own house. Chippewa, 20 miles below Buffalo and two miles above the Falls, is on the west side of Niagara River, at the mouth of a creek of the same name, which is navigable to Port Robinson, some eight or ten miles west ; the latter place being on the line of the Welland Canal. The village of Chippewa contains a popu- lation of about 1 ,000 souls. Steamboats and lake craft of a largo size are built at this place for the trade of Lake Erie and the Upper Lakes. It has obtained a place in history on account of the bloody battle which was fought near it in the war of 1812, between the United States and Great Bi-itain. The liattle was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, on the plains a short distance south of the steamboat landing. The American forces were commanded by Major Gen. Jacob Brown, and the British, by Major General Riall^ who, after an obstinate and sanguinary fight, was defeated with ojnslderable loss. BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. Ill At Chippewa commences the railroad extending to Niagara, at the mouth of the river, a distance of 17 miles. Steamboats continue the line of travel from both ends of this road, thus fur- nishing an interesting and speedy conveyance between Lakes Erie and Ontario. On arriving in the vicinity of the Falt.s of Niagara, the cars stop near the Clifton House, situated near the ferry, lead- ing to the American side. The site of this house was chosen as giving the best view of both the American and Canadian or Horse-Shoe Falls, which are seen from the piazzas and front- windows. In addition to the Falls, there are other points of attraction on the Canada side of the river. The collection of curiosities at the Museum, and the Camera Obscura, which gives an exact and beautiful, though miniature image of the Falls, are well worthy of a visit. The Burning Spring, two miles above the Falls, is also much frequented ; and the rides to the battle-grounda in this vicinity make an exhilarating and very pleasant ex- cursion. For further description of Falls, see page 21 1. Drummondsville, one mile west of the Falls, and situated on Lu)idi/''s Lane, is celebrated as the scene of another sanguin- ary engagement between the American and British forces, July 25, 1814. Tlie following is a brief, though correct account of the engage- ment. " On the afternoon of the above day, while the American army was on their march from Fort George toward Fort Erie, ascending the west bank of the river, their rear guard, under the immediate command of Gen. Scott, was attacked by the advanced guard of the British army under Gen. lliall, the British having been reinforced after their defeat at Chippewa, on the 5th of the same month. This brought on a general con- flict of the most obstinate and deadly character. As soon as attacked. Gen. Scott advanced with his division, amounting to about 3,000 men, to the open ground facing the heights occupied by the main British army, where were planted several heavy pieces of cannon. Between eight and nine o'clock in the evening, on the arrival of reinforcements to both armies, the battle be- came general and raged for several hours, with alternate success on both sides ; each army evincing the most determined bravery and resistance. The command of the respective forces was now assumed by Maj. Gen. Brown and Lieut. Gen. Drummond, each halving under his command a well-disciplined army. The brave (American) Col. Miller was ordered to advance and seize the artillery of the British, which he eflFected at the point of the bayonet in the most gallant manner. Gen. Riall, of the English army, was captured, and the possession of the battle-ground con- tested until near midnight, when 1,700 men being either killed 112 BUFFAIO TO NTAGARi FALLS. ETC. or -Trrmwl^, the con^ictinsr armies, aTnonnting altogether to a?x>nt 6//)0 -ctrong, ceased the deadly confiict, and for a t^rna the hicody field "was left tmocrrnpied. CTccept by the dead f^nd wmmdefl. When the Britfsh discoveTed that the Americfins had encimpe'l one or two milea distant, they retnmer] and ooenpie»i their former position. Thn-; ended one of the most hWAj con- fiict.^ that occurred (luring the last war: and while each p9>rfy boaa.ted a -victory, altojrether too dearly hoTight, nehYieir was dln- pofted to renew the conflict." Clifto^t is a new and flrmriHhm^ vjlla^e, sitnated at the w<^«tem termination of the Great Western Railway, where it coiwiecta with the StMpennon Bridge. ' QuF.F^^ro^, aitnated seven miles ?jelow the Falls, and aV>nt the same distance aboye the entrance of yi^c^^rz River into Lake Ontario, lies directly opposite the villajre of Lewi'-jton. with which it is con-nected by a snspension bridge 8-'0 feet in length. It contains about -W) inhabitants, 6^) dwell ing-hoases, one Epi.^'.copal, one Scotch PresbyteTn'an. and one Baptist church, fonr taverns, fonr stores, and three warehottses. This place is ako celebrated as being the scene of a deadly strife l>etween the American and Briti.sh forces, Oct. 13, 1812. The American trrx^pa actnallj engaged in the fight were commanded by Gen. Solomon Van Rensselaer, and botJi the troops and their commander greatly distingni.she^l them.selves for their bravery, althongh nltimately overpowered by .snperior nxim>>irs. In attempting to r<='gain their own side of the river many of the Americans perished, the whole loss in killed, wonnded, and priaonera ftmonnting to at least 1 ///) men. Major Gen. Brock, the British commander, was kille^l in the middle of the fight, while leadin;? on his men. A new monument stands on the heights, near wherehe fell, erecte^l to his rnemoi'T. The first monument was nearly destroyed by gnnpowder, April 17. 1840: an infamons act, said to have T/een perpetrated by a persr^n conceme'^1 in the insurrection of 1837-38. Brock's xew 'Slo^vyir.^T was commenced in 18-o3, and finishe^l in 18o6 : ?>eing 18o feet high, zmandfA on the inside by a spiral staircase of 235 stone steps. The ba.se is 4^) feet .sqT).f.re and 3-5 feet in height, snrmonnted by a tablet 3o feet high, with historical de-vices on the fonr sides. The main shaft, aly.nt KiO feet, is flnte^l and snrmonnt^l by a Corinthian capital, on which IS placed a colossal figure of >rajor General Brock, 18 feet in height. Tills beantifal strnrrtnre cost £10.///) sterling, V^'ng entirely constructed of a cream-colored stone quarrie*^! in the :-^ BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. 113 vicinity. A massiye stone wall, 80 feet square, adorned with military figures and trophies at the corners, 27 feet in height, surrounds the monument, leaving space for a grass-plot and walk on the inside of the inclosure. The following is the inscription : Upper Canada has dedicated this Monument to the memory of the late Major-Genoral Sir Isaac Brock, K.B., Provisional Lieut.-Governor and Commander of the Forces in this Province, whose remains are deposited in the vault beneath. Opposina: the invading enemy he fell in action, near the Heights, on the 13th October, isl ', in the 43d year of his age, Revered and lamented by the people whom he governed, and deplored by the sovereign to whose service his life had been devoted. The last words of Major General Brock, when he fell mortally wounded by a musket-shot through the left breast, were, " Never mind, my boys, the death of one man — I have not long to live " Thus departed one of the many noble spirits that were sacrificed on this frontier during the war of 1812. The village of Niagara is advantageously situated on the Canada side, at the entrance of the river into Lake Ontario, directly opposite Fort jYia^ora, on the American side. It con- tains about 3,000 inhabitants; a court-house and jail ; one Episcopal, one Presbyterian, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic church ; ten hotels and taverns, and twenty stores of diiferent kinds ; also, an extensive locomotive and car factory. This is the most noted place in Canada West for building steam- boats and other craft navigating Lake Ontario. Here is a dock- yard with a marine railway and foundry attached, capable of making machinery of the largest description, and giving employ- ment to a great number of men. It is owned by the " Niagara Dock Company."' Steamers leave daily for Toronto, etc. Fort George, situated a short distance south or up-stream from the mouth of the river, is now in ruins. This was the scene of a severe contest in 1813, in which the Americans were victorious. A new fort has been erected on the point of land at the moath of the river, directly opposite old Forf A^iagara on the American side. The new fortification is called Fort Massa- savga. The whole frontier on the Canada side, from Fort George to Fort Erie, opposite Buifalo, was occupied by the American army in 1814, when occurred a succession of battles of the most de- termined and brilliant character. NIAGAHA RIVER, ITS EAPID8, FALLS, ISLANDS, AND EOMANTIO SOENEPwY. " Majestic stream ! what river rivals thee. Thou child of many lakes, and sire of one- Lakes that claim kindred with the all-circling sea- Large at thy birth as when thy race is run ! Against what great obstructions hast thou won Thine august way— the rock-formed mountain-plain Has opened at thy bidding, and the steep Bars not thy passage, for the ledge in vain Stretches across the channel— thou dost leap Sublimely down the height, and urge again Thy rock-embattled course on to the distant main." This most remarkable and romantic stream, the outlet of Lake Erie, through which flows all the accumulated waters of the Upper Lakes of North America, very appropriately forms the boundary between two great countries, the British province of Upper Canada on the one side, and the State of New York, the " Empire State" of the Union, on the opposite side. In its whole course, its peculiar character is quite in keeping with the stupendous Cataract from which its principal interest is derived. The amount of water passing through this channel is im- mense ; from a computation which has been made at the outlet of Lake Erie, the quantity thus discharged is about twenty millions of cubic feet, or upward of 600,000 tons per minute, all of which great volume of water, 20 miles below, plunges over the Falls of Niagara. The Niagara River commences at Bird Island, nearly opposite the mouth of Buffalo harbor, and passes by the site of old Fort Erie and Waterloo on the Canada side. At the latter place a steam ferry-boat plies across the river to Black Rock, now form- ing a part of the city of Buffalo. It is here proposed to con- NIAGARA RTVER. 115 struct a railroad bridge across the stream, about 1 ,800 feet in width. Squaw Island and Strawberry Island are both small islands lying on the American side of the stream, near the head of Grand Island The river is here used in part for the Erie Canal, a pier extending from Squaw Island to Bird Island, forming a large basin called Black Rock Harbor. Gkand Island, attached to Erie Co., N. Y., is a large and important body of land, about ten miles long from north to south, and seven miles wide. This island is partly cleared and cultivated, while the larger portion is covered with a large growth of oaks and other forest trees. The ship or steamboat channel runs along the bank of Grand Island to nearly opposite Chippewa, where the whole stream unites before plunging over the Falls of Niagara, being again separated at the head of Goat Island. From this point the awe-struck traveler can scan the quiet waters above, and the raging rapids below, preparing to plunge over the cataract. Cayuga Island and Buckhorn Island are small bodies of land belonging to the United States, situated immediately below Grand Island. Navy Island, lying opposite the village of Chippewa, 18 miles below the head of the river, is a celebrated island belong- ing to the Canadians, having been taken possession of by the sympathizing patriots in 1837, when a partial rebellion occurred in Upper and Lower Canada. ToNAWANDA, 11 miles below Buffalo, is situated at the mouth of Tonawanda Creek, opposite Grand Island. The Erie Canal here enters the creek, which it follows for several miles on its course toward Lockport. A railroad also runs to Lockport, connecting with the jVew York Central Railroad, extending to Albany. A ship canal is proposed to be constructed from Tonawanda to some eligible point on Lake Ontario, thus form- ing a rival to the Welland Canal of Canada. Schlosser's Landing, two miles above Niagara Falls village, is a noted steamboat landing, opposite Chippewa, from whence 116 NIAGARA RIVER. the steamer Caroline was cut adrift by the British and de- stroyed, by being precipitated over the Falls duriug the Ca- nadian rebellion, December 29th, 1837. Thk Eapids. — Below Navy Island, between Chippewa and Schlosser, the river is nearly three miles in width, but soon narrows to one mile, when the Rapids commence, and continue for about one mile before reaching the edge of the precipice at the Ilorse-Shoe Fall. Ax the commencement of the Rapids " the bed of the river declines, the channel contracts, numerous large rocks heave up the rolling surges, and dispute the passage of the now raging and foaming floods. The mighty torrent leaping down succes- sive ledges, dashing over opposing elevations, hurled back by ridges, and repelled from shores and islands — plunging, boiling, roaring — seems a mad wilderness of waters striving against its better fate, and hurried on to destruction by its own blind and reckless impetuosity. Were there no cataract, these Rapids would yet make Niagara the wonder of the world." Iris, or Goat Island, commences near the head of the Rapids, and extends to the precipice, of which it forms a part, separating the American Fall from the Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall. It is about half a mile in length, eighty rods wide, and contains over sixty acres of arable land, being for the most part covered Avith a heavy growth of forest trees of a variety of species, and native plants and flowers. A portion of the island, however, has been cleared off, and a garden inclosed, in which arc some excellent fruit trees, and a variety of native and foreign plants and flowers, and a flsh-pond. The island is re- markably cool, shady, and pleasant, and is an object of unceas- ing admiration from year to year. Comfortable seats and arbors are placed at the most interesting points, where the visitor can sit at ease and enjoy the beautiful and sublime views presented to his sight— often entranced by a deafening roar of mighty waters in their descent, often accompanied by changing rainbows of t'e most gorgeous description. NIAGARA RIVER. 117 NIAGAE A. WRITTEN BY LYDIA H. SIGOURNEY. Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe Of terror and of beauty ; God hath set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud Mantles around thy feet, and He doth give Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him Eternally; bidding the lip of man Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altar Pour incense of awe-struck praise. Goat Island Bridge. — The Niagara Falls Gazette gives the following description of this new structure : " This bridge across the east branch of the Niagara River is situated in the Rapids, about sixty rods above the Cataract, on the site of the old Avooden bridge. It is 360 feet long, and con- sists of four arches of ninety feet span each, supported between the abutments of three piers. The piers above water are built of heavy cut stone, and are twenty two feet long and six feet wide, tapering one foot in the height. The foundations are formed of foot-square oak timber, strongly framed and bolted together in cribs, filled with stone, and covered with timber at the surface of the water. These timber-foundations are pro- tected against wear and injury from ice by heavy plates of iron, and being always covered with water, will be as durable as the stone. " The superstructure is of iron, on the plan of Whipple's iron-arched bridge. The whole width is twenty-seven feet, affording a double carriage-way of sixteen and a half feet, and two foot- ways of five and a fourth feet each, with iron railings. The arches are of cast iron, and the chords, suspenders, and braces of wrought iron. All the materials used in the construc- tion ax'e of the best quality, and the size and strength of all the parts far beyond what are deemed necessary in bridges exposed to the severest tests. " This substantial and beautiful structure, spanning a branch of this majestic river in the midst of the rapids, and overlook- ing the cataract, is worthy of the site it occupies, and affords another instance of the triumph of human ingenuity over the obstacles of nature. " The islands connected by this bridge with the American shore are the property of Messrs. Porter, and constitute the most interesting features in the scenery surrounding the cata- ract. This bridge has been erected by them tu facilitate com- 118 NIAGARA RIVER. munication with these interesting localities not otherwise ac- cessible." This is a toll-bridge, every foot passenger being charged 25 cents for the season, or single crossing. There are upward of thirty islands and islets in the Niagara River or Strait, above the cataract. Most of those not described are small, and scarcely worthy of enumeration, although those immediately contiguous to Goat Island form beautiful objects in connection with the rushing and mighty waters by which they are surrounded. Bath Island, Br-is; Island, Chapin's Island, and Bird Island, all situated immediately above the American Fall, are reached by bridges. When on Goat Island, turning to the right toward the Fails, the first object of interest is Hogg's Back, a point of land fac- ing the American Fall, — Bridge to Adington Island immediately above the Cave of the Winds, 160 feet below. Sam. Patch's Point is next passed on the right, from which he took a fearful leap some years since. Biddle's Stairs descend to the water's edge below and the Cave of the Winds, which are annually visited by thousands of visitors. Terrapin Bridge and Terrapin Tower afford a grand view of the Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall and Rapids above the Falls. Three Sister Islands are contiguous to Goat Island, on the American side. Passing around Goat Island toward the south, a grand view is afforded of the river and rapids above the Canadian and American Falls. CATAEACT OF NIAGAEA. " Shrine of Omnipotence ! how vast, how grand, ITow awful, yet how beautiful thou art ! Pillar'd around thy everlasting hills, Eobed in the drapery of descending floods, Crowned by the rainbow, canopied by clouds That roll in incenso up from thy dread base, Hid by their mantling o'er the vast abyss Upon v/hose verge thou standest, whence ascends The mighty anthem of thy Maker's praise, Hyi».n'd in eternal thunders .'" CATARACT OF NIAGARA. 119 ^^lAGAEA is a word of Indian origin — the 0^ " orthography, accentuation and meaning fe ; of which are variously given by different ^. authors It is highly probable that this ^ diversity might be accounted for and explained by tracing the appellation ^ through the dialects of the several tribes of aborigines who formerly inhabited the neighboring country. There is reason to believo, however, that the etymon belongs to the language of the Iroquois, and signifies the " Thunder of Waters.'''' *' ^^ hen the traveler fii'st arrives at the cataract, he stands and gazes, and is lost in admiration. The mighty volume of water which forms the outlet of the great Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie, is here precipitated over a preci- pice 160 feet high, with a roar like that of thunder, which may be heard, iu favorable circumstances, to the distance of fifteen miles, though, at times, the Falls may be nearly approached witliout perceiving much to indicate a tremendous cataract in the vicinity. In consequence of a bend in the river, the princi- pal weight of water is thrown on the Canadian side, down what is called the Horse- Shoe Fill, which name has become inappro- priate, as the edges of the precipice have ceased to be a curve, and forms a moderately acute angle. Near the middle of the fall. Goat Island, containing 75 acres, extends to the brow of the precipice, dividing the river into two parts ; and a small projecting mass of rock at a little distance from -it, toward the American shore, again divides the cataract on that side. Goat Island, at the lower end, presents a perpendicular mass of rocks, extending from the bottom to the top of the precipice. A bridge has been constructed from the American shore to Bath Island, and another connects the latter with Goat Island, and a tower is erected on the brow of the Horse- Shoe Fall, approached from Goat Island by a short bridge, on which the spectator seems to stand over the edge of the mighty cataract, and which aftbrds a fine view of this part of it. The distance at the fall from the American shore to Goat Island is 65 rods ; across the front of Goat Island is 78 rods ; around the Horse-Shoe Fall, on the Canadian side, 144 rods ; directly across the Horse-Shoe, 74 rods. The height of the fall near the American shore is 163 feet; near Goat Island, on the same side, 158 feet; near Goat Island, on the Canada side, 164 feet. Table Eock, a shelving 120 CATARACT OF NIAGARA. projection on the Canadian side, at the edge of the precipice, is l')0 feet high. This phice is generally thought to present tlie finest view of the Falls; though if the spectator will visit the tower on the opposite side on Goat Island, at sunrise, when the whole cavity is enlightened by the sun, and the gorgeous bow ti'embles in the rising spray, he can not elsewhere, the world over, enjoy such an incomparable scene. A covered stairway on the American side descends from the top to the bottom of the precipice. " It has been computed that 100 million tons of water are dis- charged over the precipice every hour. The Rapids commence about a mile above the Falls, and the Avater descends 67 feet be- fore it arrives at the cataract. The view from the bridge to Goat Island, of the troubled water dashing tumultuously over the rocks of the American fall, is terrific. While curiosity con- stitutes an attribute of the human character, these falls will be frequented by admiring and delighted visitors as one of the grandest exhibitions in nature. " This stupendous cataract, situated in N. lat. 43° 6/ and W. long. 2° 6' li-om Wasliingtcn, is twenty-two miles north from the eiilux of the river at Lake Erie, and fourteen mdes south of its outlet into Lake Ontario. The whole length of the river is therefore thirty-six miles, its general course is a few points to the west of north. Though commonly called a river, this por- tion of the St. Lawrence is, more properly speaking, a sfrait, connecting, as above mentioned, the Lakes Erie and Ontario, and conducting the superfluous waters of the great seas and streams above though a broad and divided, and afterward compressed, devious, and irregular chr.nnel to the latter lake, into which it empties — tlie point of union being about forty miles from the western extremity of Lake Ontario. " The climai?e of the Niagara is in the highest degree health- ful and invigorating. The atmosphere, constantly acted upon by the rushing water, the noise and the spray, is kept pure, re- fresliing, and salutary. There are no stagnant pools or marshes near to send abroad their foetid exhalations and noxious mias- mas, poisoning the air and producing disease. " Svv^eet-breathing herbs and beautiful wild flowers spring up spontaneouslj'" even on the sides, and in the crevices of the giant rocks ; and luxuriant clusters of firs and other stately forest trees cover the islands, crown the cliffs, and overhang the banks of Niagara. Here are no mosquitoes to annoy, no reptiles to alarm, and no wild animals to intimidate, yet there is life and vivacity. The manj'^-hued butterfly sips ambrosia from the fresh opened honey-cup — birds carol their lays of love among the spray-starred branches ; and the lively squirrel skips chattering from tree to tree. Varieties of water-fowl, at o.i ILiE AAIEKICAN TALl.S liY MOONLIGHT. CARARACT OF NIAGARA, 121 certain seasons of the year, sport among the rapids, the sea-gull plays around the precipice, and the eagle — the banner bird of freedom — hovers above the cataract, plumes his gray pinions in its curling mists, and makes his home among the giant firs of its inaccessible islands. " No place on the civilized earth oflFers such attractions and inducements to visitors as Niagara, and they can never be fully known except to those who see and study them, fiMjm the utter imj^ssibility of describing such a scene as this wonderful cataract presents. When motion can be expressed by color, there will be some hope of imparting a faint idea of it ; but until that can be done, Niagara must remain undescribed," Below the Falls, the first objects of interest are the Ferry Stairs and Point View on the American side ; while on the opposite side is a ferry and steamboat landing, where carriages are usually to be found to convey passengers to the Clifton House, Table Eock, and other places. About oO rods below the ferry stairs is the spot where the hermit Abbot was drowned. Half a mile below the latter point ]a Catliu's Cave, foi-merly much frequented. The steamboat landing for the Maid of the Mist is situated on the American shore two miles below the Falls and about half a mile above the Suspension Bridge. This steamer, the second boat of the same name, first commenced running as an experi- ment boat in 1848 ; since then she has run annually without an accident of any kind. The first trip was made on September 18th, 1846, by Capt. H. Filkins, who with his small crew were the only persons on board, except an intrepid Canadian who was desirous of cix)ssing the river with a horse, they both being safely landed on the Canadian shore. The Suspension Bhidge, the greatest artificial curiosity in America, is situated two miles and a half below the Falls, where has recently sprung into existence jViagara City, or better known as the Suspension Bridge, on the American side, and Clifton on the Canadian side of the river, here being aboui, 800 feet in width, wdth perpendicular banks of 325 feet. Th€ Whirlpool and Rapids, one mile below the Bridge, are terrific sights of great interest, and well worthy a vis'' 122 CATARACT OF NIAGARA. The DevWs Hole, one mile farther down, is also a point of great attraction, together with the Bloody Run, a small stream ■where a detachment of English soldiers were precipitated in their flight from an attack by Indians during the old French war in 1759. An amphitheater of high ground spreads around and perfectly incloses the valley of the Devirs Hole, with the exception of a narrow ravine formed by Bloody Run — from which, against a large force, there is no escape, except i>ver the precipice. The Ice Cave is another object of interest con- nected with the Deril's Hole. The Rapids below the Whirlpool are the next object of attrac- tion ; then Queenston Heights and Brock's Monument on the Ca- nadian side, and the Suspension Bridge at Lewiston; altogether forming objects of interest suificient to fill a well-sized volume. The Niagara River is navigable from Lewiston to its mouth at Fort Niagara, a farther distance of seven miles, or fourteen beioAV the Falls of Niagara. MONT-EAGLE HOUSE, -AT THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE, NIAGARA, NEW YORK. This Hotel, now open for the r(!ception of guests, has been thoroughly refitted and improved, and will be found unequal- cd as a summer resort, for coolness, health, and comfort. Every window and piazza in the front and west side of the Hotel commands a full view of the great " Horse-Shoe" and " American Falls," "Goat Island," "Table Rock," and the " Railroad Suspension Bridge." On the Tower, 170 feet high, the scenery is most imposing, and from a grove in the garden you overlook the "Whirlpool" and the wildest portion of the lower " Rapids." CATARACT OF NIAGARA. 123 THE PROPOSED NIAGARA FALLS GUNBOAT CANAL. Gen. Stuart, in his report on the Gunboat Canal between tide water and the Lakes, estimates the cost of a Ship Canal artnind the Falls of Niagara, 105 wide on the surface, and 95 feet wide on the bottom, with twelve feet depth of water, having locks 275 feet long by 45 feet wide in the chamber, capable of passing a gunboat of 1,250 tons burden, at $5,958,947 25 with single locks, and $7,538,529 with double locks. This is the average cost of five lines surveyed last year. The average length of lines is 8 miles and 3,070 feet. The village of Niagara Falls, Niagara Co., N. Y. , is sit- uated on the east side of Niagara River, in the immediate vi- cinity of the grand Cataract, 22 miles from Buffalo and o03 miles from Albany by railroad route. No place in the Union exceeds this favored spot as a fashionable place of resort dur- ing the summer and fall months, when hundreds of visitors may be seen every day flocking to Goat Island, or points con- tiguous to the Rapids and Falls. The village contains several large hotels for the accommodation of visitors, the most noted of which are the Cataract House and the International Hotel ; the Mohteagle Hotel, situated two miles below the Falls, near the Suspension Bridge, and the CUfton House, on the Canada side, are all ahke popular and well-kept hotels ; there are five churches of different denominations ; 15 stores, in many of which are kept for sale Indian curiosities and fancy work of different kinds. The water-power here afforded by the descending stream, east of Goat Island, is illimitable. A paper-mill, a flouriug-mill, two saw-mills, a woolen factory, a furnace and machine shop, together with other manufacturing establish- ments, here use the water-power so bountifully supplied. ThQ population is about 3,000. The railroads centering at the Falls are the Buffalo, JViagara Falls and Lewiston Railroad, the JVew York Central Rail- road, and the Canandaigua and JViagara Falls Railroad , the latter road connecting with the JVew York and Erie Rail- road, and forming with other roads a direct route to Phila delphia, Baltimore, and Washington 124 CATARACT OF NIAGARA. An omnibus line mns hourly from the village of Niagara Falls to Niagara City, or Suspension Bridge, during the sum- mer months, and thence to the Clifton House and Table Rock )n the Canada side, affording a cheap mode of visiting both sides of Niagara River. Niagara Citv, situated two miles below the Falls, at the Svspensio7i Bridge, is a new and flourishing place. Here is lo- cated the Monteagle Hotel, and other public houses, together ■with several stores and manufacturing establishments. DIMENSIONS OF SUSPENSION BRIDGE. Length of span from center to center of towers . 822 feet. Height of railroad track above water 250 " Height of towers above rock on American side. . 88 " Height of towers above rock on Canada side. ... 78 " Height of towers above floor of railway 60 " Number of wire cables 4 Diameter of each cable 10 inches. Number of wires in each cable , . .3,659 Weight of superstructure 750 tons. Base of towers 16 feet sq Top of towers 8 " Depth of anchor pits below surface of rocks . 30 feet. WEIGHT OF THE MATERIALS IIV THE BRIDGE. Timber of different kinds 919,130 lbs Wrought iron and suspenders 113,120 " Castings 44,322 " Iron rails 66.740 " Cable between towers 535,400 " Total 1,678,722 « The Great Western Railway of Canada, which unites with the New York Central Railroad, terminating on the American side of the river, here commences and extends westward through Hamilton, London, and Chatham to Windsor, opposite Detroit, Mich., forming one of the great through lines of travel from Boston and New York to Chicago and the Far West. This road also furnishes a speedy route of travel to Toronto, Collingwood, etc. NIAGARA FALLS. 125 BATE OF CHARGES AT NIAGARA FALLS. The following are the rate of charges usually exacted from persons visiting Niagara Falls — but, unfortunately, impositions are often practiced by unprincipled individuals, at this, as well as other fashionable resorts : AMERICAN SIDE. Board, from one to two and a half dollars ^er day. For services of guide, from one to three dollars For guide behind the Central Fall, and visiting the Cave of the Winds, one dollar. For crossing bridge to Goat Island, 25 cents. Fare to and from Suspension Bridge, 12 J cents. Fare for crossing Suspension Bridge, 25 cents Fare to the Whirlpool, 50 cents. For use of steps or cars on Inclined Plane, 10 cents. Ferriage to Canada side, 18.^ cents. Omnibus fare and steam ferriage to Canada side, 25 cents. CANADA SIDE. Board, from one to two and a half dollars per day. ^ Visiting Barnett's Museum, Camera Obscura, and Pleasure Grounds, 25 cents. For guide and use of dress to pass behind the Fall at Table Rock, one dollar. Carriage fare from ferry to Clifton House, 6^ cents. Carriage fare to Whirlpool, Lundy's Lane Battle Ground, Burning Spring, and back to Ferry, 50 to 75 cents. Guide to Battle Ground and visiting Monument, 25 cents. Carriage fare to Brock's Monument on Queenston Heights, one dollar. Carriage fare per day, four dollars. The drives in the vicinity of the Falls, on both sides of the river, are unrivaled, and no visitor should lose the opportunity to visit all the objects of attraction above and below the mighty Cataract. 126 BUFFALO TO LEWISTON, ETC. Lewistoist, Niagara Co., N. Y., is delightfully situated on the east bank of the Niagara Eiver, seven miles below the Falls, and seven miles above the mouth of the river where it falls into Lake Ontario. It is an incorporated village and contains about 1,000 inhabitants, four churches, an incorporated academy ; a custom-house, it being the port of entry for the district of Niagara ; three hotels, nine stores, and three storehouses. Here is a very aonvenient steamboat landing, from which steamers depart daily for Oswego, Ogdensburgh, etc., on the American side, and for Toronto, Kingston, etc., on the Canadian side. The Buffalo, Niagara Falls and Lewiston Railroad ter- minates at this place, where is a magnificent Suspension Bridge thrown across the Niagara connecting Lewiston with Queenston, Canada. The mountain ridge here rises about 300 feet above the river, forming many picturesque and romantic points of great interest. On the American side of the river stands the site of old Fort Gray, erected during the war of 1812, while on the Canadian side are situated Queenston Heights, surmounted by a beautiful monument erected to the memory of Gen. Brock, of the British army, who was here killed in a sanguinary con- flict, October 13th, 1812, From this height a most extensive and grand view is obtained of Lake Ontario and the surround- ing country. YouNGSTOwN, six milcs below Lewiston, and one mile above old Fort Niagara at the mouth of the river, is a regular steam- boat landing. The village contains about 800 inhabitants; three churches, two public houses, five stores, and two flom-ing- mills, besides other manufacturing establishments. A railroad is nearly completed, extending from this place to Niagara Falls, being a continuation of the Canandaigua and Niagara Falls Bailroad, now completed to the Suspension Bridge. A terry plies from Youngstown to the village of Niagara on the Canada side of the river, here about half a mile in width. This i? the first landing, on the American side of the river, after leaving the broad waters of Lake Ontario LAKE ONTARIO. Tms Lake, the most eastern of the great chain of Lakes of North Anie-rica, receives the surplus waters of Niagara River ; it is 190 miles in length, and 60 miles in extreme breadth; being about 480 miles in circumference. The boundary line between the British Possessions and the United States runs through the middle of the lake, and so continues down the St. Lawrence to the 45th degree of north latitude, where the river enters Canada. The lake is navigable throughout its whole extent for vessels of the largest size ; and it is said to be in some places upward of 600 feet in depth. Its surface is elevated 234 feet above the Atlantic, and lies 330 feet lower than Lake Erie, with which it is connected by the Niagara River and by the Welland Canal in Canada. It has also been proposed to construct a ship canal on the American side. The trade of Lake Ontario, from the great extent of inhabited country surrounding it, is very con- siderable, and is rapidly increasing. Many sail vessels and splendid steamers are employed in navigating its waters, which, owing to its great depth, never freezes, except at the sides, where the water is shallow ; so that its navigation is not so ef- fectually interrupted by ice as some of the other large lakes. The most important places on the Canadian or British side of Lake Ontario are Kingston, Coburg, Port Hope, Toronto, Ham- ilton, and Niagara ; on the American shore, Cape Vincent, Sachet's Harbor, Oswego, Charlotte or Port Genesee, and Lew- iston on Niagara River. This lake is connected with the navi- gable waters of the Hudson River by means of the Oswego and Ei'ie canals. It receives numerous streams, both from the Canadian and the American sides, and abounds with a great variety of fish of an excellent flavor. The bass and salmon, in particular, have a high reputation, and are taken in large quantities The principal Bays are Burlington, Irondequoit, Great and Little Sodus, Mexico, Black River, Chaumont, and the picturesque wat»s of the Bay of Quinte. 128 LAKE ONTARIO The passage across Lake Ontario in calm weather is most agreeable. At times both shores are hidden from view, when nothing can be seen from the deck of the vessel but an abyss of waters. The refractions which sometimes take place in summer, are exceedingly beautiful. Islands and trees appear turned upside down ; and the white surf of the beach, trans- lated aloft, seems like the smoke of artillery blazing away from a fort.* * Bbatttifttl Mirage.— That grand phenomenon occasionally witnessed on the Lakes — mirage— was seen from the steamer Bay Slate, on a recent trip from Niagara to Genesee Eiver (August, 1S56), with more than or dinary splendor. The Lockport Joiornal says it occurred just as the sun was setting, at which time some twelve vessels were seen reflected on the horizon, in an inverted position, witli a distinctness and vividness truly surprising. The atmosphere was overcast with a thick haze such as pre cedes a storm, and of a color favorable to represent upon the darkened background, vividly, the full outlines of the rigging, sails, etc., as perfect as if the ships themselves were actually transformed to the aerial canvas. The unusual phenomenon lasted until darkness put an end to the scene. EOUTE AKOUND LAKE ONTAKIO. Miles. Kingston, C. W., to Toronto, via Grand Trunk Railway. 160 Toronto to Hamilton, C. W., Toronto and Hamilton R.R. 38 Hamilton to Suspension Bridge, via Great Western R.R. . 43 Suspension Bridge to Rochester, N. Y., via JV. Y. Central Railway 76 Rochester to Oswego, N. Y., by stage 70 Oswego to Richland, N. Y., " 35 Richland to Cape Vincent, via Watertown and Roine R.R. 55 Cape Vincent to Kingston, C. W., via Wolfe Island 12 Total Miles. 489 Note. — The extreme length of L. Ontario is 190 miles, from Cape Vincent to Hamilton, C. W. ; being about four times as long as its greatest width. The circuit of the water is esti- mated at 480 miles. Sit Lake EriCs page 163. STEAMBOAT ROUTES. 129 AMERICAN STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM LEWISTON TO OSWEGO, KINGSTON, AND OGDENSBURGH. Porta, etc. Miles. Ports, etc. Miles Lkwiston 6 Ogdensburgh Morristow7i Youngstown Amga?-a, Can 11 1-7 Brockville, Can 1-12 Charlotte, or Port Thousand Islands. . . ^ Genesee PiiltneyvUJe 80-87 Alexandria Bay 22-34 20-107 Clayton, or French Sodus Point 10-117 30-147 Creek 12-46 Oswego Grand, or Wolfe Island Stoney Point and Island 33-180 KiNGSTO]v, Can 24-70 Sac.kefs Harbor 12-192 Socket's Harbor 38-108 Grand, or Wolfe Island 28-220 Stoney Point and Island 12-120 KiNGSToivr, Can 10-230 Oswego 33-153 Thousand Islands. . . Sodus Point 30-183 Clayton, or Blench Pultneymlle 10-193 Creek 24-254 Charlotte, or Port Alexandria Bay. .... 12-266 Genesee 20-213 Brockville, Can 22-288 JViagara, Can 80-293 Morristown 1-289 Youngstown 1-294 Ogdknsburgh 11-300 Lewiston 6-300 Usual Time from Lewiston to Ogdensburgh, via Oswego and Kingston, 28 hours. Usual. Time, via Toronto and Cape Vincent, 22 hours. Cabin Fare, $5 50 (including meals). Decl( Fare, $2 50. STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM LEWISTON TO TORONTO AND OGDENSBURGH, ma EXPRESS LINE. Ports, etc. L!"WISTf)N'. . . . Miles. 42-49 128-177 30-207 19-226 Ports, etc. Ogdensburgh Brockville, Can, Clayton, or French Creek Capk Vincknt Tibbet's Point Miles. Niagara .... 11 Toronto, Can Point Peter and Light Duck Island 34-45 13-58 TibbefsPoin: and L. 3-61 130 STEAMBOAT ROUTES. Ports, etc. Miles. Duck Island TJ-SO Point Peter and Light 30-1 1 Toronto 128-258 Niagara 42-280 Lewiston 7-287 Usual Fare, from Ogdensburgh to Montreal, $3 50 Through Fare, from Lewiston to Montreal, 9 00 « '« from Buffalo to Montreal, 10 00 Ports, etc. UA.PE Vincent Vlayton, or French ' Creek Miles. 3-229 13-242 hrockville. Can Ogdensburgh 34-276 11-297 4 ill ''ill liii m^Jf ''iiii <4 I'S'li •P>"''i?ii('.iii ilffff. TRIP FROM LEWISTON TO OSWEGO, KINGSTON, AND OGDE^^SBURGH. During the season of navigation, steamers of a large class, belonging to the Ontario and St. Lawrence Steamboat Com- pnni/, leave Lewiston daily, following the south or American shore to the foot of Lake Ontario, and thence to Ogdensburgh, on the St Lawrence River. On leaving the wharf at Lewiston, a most beautiful and ex- tensive view is aiforded of Niagara River, the lower Suspension Bridge, Brock's Monument on Queenston Heights, and the vil- lages of Lewiston and Queenston, with the Mountain llidge in the background. When are associated the stirring historical events connected with this vicinity, no spot exceeds it in interest. The banks of the river are here elevated from 40 to 50 feet, with bold shores, while the water rushes onward into Lake Ontario, the receptacle of all the waters of the Upper Lakes. FoHT Niagara, seven miles below Lewiston, lying on the American shore at the mouth of the Niagara River, is well worthy of a visit in connection with the ruins of Fort George, on the Canadian shore, near the village of Niagara. In 1679, M. De Salle, the explorer of the Mississippi, in the service of France, inclosed the spot on which the fort was here built in 1725, by palisades. In 1759 it was taken by the British, under Sir William Johnson, in whose hands it remained until 1796, when it was evacuated and given up to the United States. On the 19th of December, 1813, it was again taken by the British by surprise; and in March, 1815, again surrendered to the Americans. This old fort is as much noted for being the theater of tyranny and crime as for the scenes of military exploits. While in the hands of the French, there is no doubt of its hay- ing been at times used as a prison. In its close and impreg- nable dungeons, where light was not admitted, for many years 1.34 LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURGH. there remained clear traces of the ready instruments for exe- cution or for murder. During the war of the Revolution it was the head-quarters of all that was barbarous and unrelenting and cruel ; this being the chief rendezvous of a savage horde that carried death and destruction into the remote American settlements. Of late years, the abduction of William Morgan, wlft) was taken from the jail in Canandaigua, and conveyed more than 100 miles through a populous country, and lodged in the magazine at Fort Niagara, where he was kept three or four days, and then inhumanly drowned — has justly tended to continue its reputation for being the scene of tyranny and murder. On passing out of the mouth of the Niagara River, and reach- ing the broad waters of Lake Ontario, a deeply interesting view is afforded of the town of Niagara and Fort Niagara, situated on opposite sides of the river, while in the distance may be seen Brock's Monument, rising nearly 500 feet above the waters of the lake, being eight or ten miles distant. Tlie steamer now pursues an easterly course in running for Charlotte, or Port Genesee, 80 miles from the mouth of Niagara River. The shores of the lake of a clear day are generally in eight, presenting an elevated and bold appearance for many miles. Eighteen Mile Creek, Thirty Mile Creek, and Oak Orchard I'iver are passed in succession; at the mouth of each there are harbors and small settlements. Braddock's Point is a bold headland ten miles west of the mouth of the Genesee River. Charlotte, or Port Genesee, 80 miles from the mouth of Niagara River, and 60 miles west from Oswego, is situated at the mouth of Genesee River, seven miles by railroad below the city of Roche&tcr, it being the outport for that place. It is a port of entry, possessing a safe harbor, being protected by two long government piers, on one of which is located a light ; there is also a light-house on the mainland. The village contains about 400 inhabitants, two churches, three hotels, four stores, four warehouses, one steam elevator, oni steam saw-mill, and LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURGH. 135 ap extensive brick-yard. American and British steamers rnn direct from Charlotte to Cobourg, Port Hope, Toronto, etc., oq the Canada side of the lake ; also to Oswego, Sacket's Harbor, etc. , on the American side, all connecting at Charlotte with railroad cars for Rochester. The Falls of 'he Genesee, near Rochester, are well worthy attention. The banks of the river immediately above Charlotte rise from 50 to 1 50 feet in height, presenting a fine appearance. The river is navigable for five or six miles to the first fall at Carthage, within the city bounds of Rochester ; then other falls occur, the principal and most interesting being near the center of the city, it extending on both sides of the stream. The water-power here afforded is very great, being used to a great extent in propelling flour-mills, saw-mills, etc. Genesee River, a deeply interesting and romantic stream, rises in Potter Co., Pa., on the great table-land of Western Pennsylvania, interlocking with some of the head sources of the Alleghany and west branch of the Susquehanna River ; it then pursues a north course to the New York State line, thence through the county of Allegany ; then by many short turnings through the rich and fertile valley of the Genesee, which ex- tends through Monroe County, where it falls into Lake Ontario, six miles below the city of Rochester. Its whole course is about 145 miles. Near its mouth, within the present city limits of Rochester, are two or three important falls, known as the Genesee Falls ; within the distance of three miles there being an estimated descent of 226 feet ; the great falls at Rochester are 96 feet, at Carthage 75, an intermediate one of 20, and the rest, rapids or small falls; altogether affording an immense amount of hydraulic power, which is used to a great extent, particularly at the Upper Falls, in propelling flouring-mills, and different kinds of manufacturing establishments. From the landing at Carthage, which constitutes a part of the city of Rochester, there is a steamboat navigation to Charlotte, or Port Genesee, a distance of four miles, where is a good harbor communicating with Ltlce Ontario. From the head of the l3o LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURGH. rapids above Rochester it is navigable during high water for a considerable distance, passing through a rich ;;nd interesting regrion of country, celebrated for its fertility. This stream now txjTibarutes the main feeder of thtj Genesee Valley Canal, which runs parallel to it for the greater part of its length through the State. There are also important falls on this river, both in Allegany and Livingston counties, where are to be found some of its most interesting features. In the town of Portage, Alle- gany Co., " there are three distinct falls on the river, respec- tively GO, 90, and 110 feet, within the space of two miles, each differing in character, and each having peculiar beauties. Although the cascades 'are highly admirable, they are almost disregarded in the wonder and fear caused by the stupendous, perpendicular walls of the river, rising to 400 feet in height, and extending along the stream for tliree miles, with almost as much regularity as if constructed by art. To this great depth the river has worn its bed in the solid rock, in turns as short and graceful as if winding through the softest meadow." After leaving Charlotte for Oswego the steamer passes PulU neyville (occasionally stopping). Great Sodus Bay and Little Sodus Bay, running within sight of the south shore ; the lake here presenting an irregular coast-line. Great Sodus Bay is a fine sheet of water, affording a secure harbor for lake craft, being from one to three miles wide and five miles long. The fishing is here good, as well as in all the bays along the south shore of the lake. Sodus Point, Wayne Co., N. Y., situated at the entrance of Great Sodus Bay, is a port of entry, with a good harbor, and contains a church, a public house, two stores, a steam saw-mill, and about 300 inhabitants. Little Sodus Bay, 14 miles east of Great Sodus, is another important body of water. " At Little Sodus, in high winds, vessels can often come within the protection of Long Point on one side, and the protecting shores west, between it and Big Sodus, and ride out the storm in the indented shore of the lake, and can, when the improvements to Little Sodus harbor are LKWI8T0N TO OSWEGO AND OQEJENSBURGH. 137 completed, enter the bay with ease, and take refuge thera. This fact gives great advantages to Little Sodus Bay, as 11 makes it accessible at all times." The City of Oswego, 36 miles noi-th of Syracuse by railroad, is advantageously situated on both sides of Oswego River, at its entrance into Lake Ontario. It is a port of entry, was char- tered in 1848, being divided into four wards. In 1855 it con- tained 16,000 inhabitants, 1,500 dwelling-houses, two Presby- terian, two Episcopal, two Baptist, two Methodist, two Roman Catholic, one Universalist, and one African church, besides a Bethel congregation; a court-house and jail, a custom-houae, four banking houses, two savings' banks; a gas company, a female seminary, and orphan asylum. There are several well- kept hotels ; the Munger House and the Hamilton House on the east side of the river, and the Niagara House on the west side, are the most frequented by pleasure travelers. The Pardee House is a new and commodious hotel which is nearly com- pleted, situated on the west side of the river, near the steamboat landing. The Oswego and Syracuse Railroad, 36 miles in length, con- nects this place with the Central Railroad of New York, while another railroad is being constructed on the east side of the Oswego River, to run to Syracuse and connect with the Syra- cuse and Bingham ton Railroad, thus forming another direct route to the cities of New York and Philadelphia, and the coal region of Pennsylvania. The Oswego Canal aliso connects with the Erie Canal at Syracuse, altogether affording great facilities for trade and commerce, in connection with the lake naviga- tion and water privilege. Here are now in operation 15 fiour- ing-mills, with 84 run of stones, making 8,400 barrels of flour per day when in full operation ; ten elevators capable of eleva- ting 88,000 bushels of grain per hour, with storage room for 2,000,000 bushels. These huge edifices are so arranged as tj Unload and load vessels with great dispatch. The Oswego Starch Factory, owned by an incorporated body, was erected in 1848, since which large additions 138 LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBl RGH. made. The entire front of the building is now olO feet, five stories high, extending back over the river 250 feet ; it is capa- ble of manufacturing twelve millions pounds of corn starch per year, consuming some 600,000 bushels of corn for the purpose, and giving employment to 300 persons. In addition to the above are two steam-engine and machine works, two iron and brass foundries, one cotton-mill, besides several other mills and factories. The quantity of water flowing in the Oswego River at ordin- ary high water is 700,000 cubic feet per minute, at low water 200,000. Fall at the two lower dams in the city, 86 feet, affording altogether an immense and reliable water-power. The number of vessels which arrive and depart annually from this port is very large; there being here owned eight steamers and propellers and about 100 schooners, averaging over 100 tons burden, besides a large number of canal boats. The harbor is capacious and safe, being well protected by two large stone piers, constructed by the United States government. On the end of the west pier is situated a light-house ; about half a mile above are two bridges extending across the river, 600 feet in length. An extensive forwarding business is done at this place by means of lake, river, nnd canal navigation ; goods passing through from New York to Oswego, and thence over the Collingwood route, or through the Welland Canal to the Upper Lakes. Oswego now ranks as one of the greatest grain markets in the world, and will no doubt continue to increase with the growth and production of the Western States and Canada The lumber trade is also very great, immense quantities being shipped from Canada to this port, and re-shipped to Eastern markets. The impulse imparted to the commerce of Oswego by the late Reciprocity Treaty, which went into force October. 1854, is very great, as will be seen by the following returns made from official figures : LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURQH. 139 1854. 1855. Value of Foreign Imports $2.8(30,918 $6,139,743 " Exports 3,734,168 5,870,920 Total $6,595,086 $12,010,663 Here it will be seen that the trade with Canada nearly- doubled in the first year under the operation of the above treaty. The domestic or coastwise trade is also constantly and rapidly increasing. One of the Steamers of the Ontario and St. Lawrence Steam- boat Company leaves Oswego daily for Sacket's Harbor, Kings- ton, C. W., and Ogdensburgh, connecting with steamers running to Montreal, and Rouse's Point, via the Northern Railroad of New York. A steamer also leaves Oswego daily, for Rochester, Ningara, C. W., and Lewiston, connecting with steamers for Toronto, etc. RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM SYRACUSE TO NIAGARA FALLS, via OSWEGO AND LEWISTON. Thi.s route, during the season of navigation on Lake Ontario, is a most interesting line of travel, affording the tourist a fine opportunity of viewing the scenery peculiar to Lake Ontario and Niagara River. The Oswego and Syracuse Railroad, 35 miles in length, runs along the west side of Onondaga Lake to the Seneca River, which is passed near Baldwinsville, the first stopping-place after leaving Syracuse. From thence the road runs north on the west side of Oswego River, passing opposite to the village of FiTLTOK, 11 miles from the city of Oswego. Passenger cara nsualiy leave Syracuse and Oswego three times daily. Ameiican steamers leave Oswego daily for Sacket's Harbor, Kingston, Canada, Ogdensburgh, etc., in the morning, on the nrrival of the cars from Syracuse; while in the afternoon a 3 40 LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURGH. Bteamer leaves for Rochester, Lewiston, etc., running xip the lake. Passengers passing through Oswego are afforded a hasty glance of the city, the harbor, and Fort Ontario, the l^itter being located on the east shore of the river at its entrance into Lake Ontario. DISTANCES AND FAKE BETWEEN SYRACUSE AND NI \G/ EA FALLS, ina OSWEGO AND LEWISTON. Stopping Places. Miles. Fare. Stopping Places. Miles. ? are. Syracuse Niagara Falls. . OswKGo 35 $1 00 LEvy^isTON 6 $0 50 Pultneyville 75 — Niagara, C.W 14 — Char lott k , or Port Ch a rlotte , or Port Genesee 100 — Genesee 88 — Niagara, C.W... 174 — Pultneyville 113 — Lkwistoiv 182 — Oswego 153 — Niagara Falls.. 188 4 00 Syracuse 188 4 0© On resuming the trip from Oswego to Sacket's Harbor, the steamer runs in a northerly direction off Mexico Bay, being a large expanse of water at the east end of Lake Ontario, where lies Port Ontario, at the mouth of Salmon River. On this stream is situated one of the most romantic falls in the country. Salmon River rises in Lewis Co., and flows west through Oswego Co. into Lake Ontario; discharging its waters into Mexico Bay, at the village of Port Ontario. This is a fine and durable stream, having a tolerably good harbor at its mouth, and is boatable during high water to the Falls in Orwell, a dis- tance of 14 miles. " The Falls of Salmon River may be classed among the principal natural curiosities of the country. The current is gentle above for six or more miles, then two miles of rapids, and at the falls drops almost perpendicular 107 feet. At high water the sheet is 250 feet in width, but at low water it is narrowed down to about half that extent. Tlie rooky strata seem to be composed of slate stone and granite, or gneiss, and the height of the banks immediately above the fall is variously estimated at from 70 to 90 feet ; below it is said LKWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURGH. 141 that tlie walls, perpendicular rock, are about 200 feet. At the foot of the cataract there is very deep water, abounding in fine fish, such as salmon, trout, etc." Great Stoney Island and other islands are passed as the steamer approaches Black River Bay, which affords the most capacious and safe harbor on Lake Ontario. Here enters Black River, an important stream, which rises many miles to the east- ward, interlocking with the waters of the Mohawk and other tributaries of the Hudson River. Saokkt's Harbou, 45 miles north of Oswego, and distant 88 miles from Kingston, Canada, possesses one of the best and most secnre harbors on Lake Ontario, being situated on Black Hiver Bay, ten miles below Watertown, with which place it is Soon to be connected by a railroad. It was an important naval and military station during the war of 1812, with Great Britain ; it being the rendezvous of the American fleet on Lake Ontario. Here now lies a large war vessel under cover, which was commenced at the above period. Madison Barracks, gar- risoned by United States troops, Is handsomely situated near the steamboat landing, being in full view from the water. This place is an important port of entry, and no doubt destined to increase in wealth and numbers on the opening of railroad facilities. The village now" contains four churches, two hotels, twenty stores, four storehouses, a ship-yard and rope-walk, three feaw-mills, two furnaces, an iron foundry and machine-shop. The SuckeVs Harbor and EUisburgh Railroad, 18 miles in length, connects with the Watertown and Rome Railroad. Black River, so called from the color of its water, is the third in magnitude that has its whole course in the State of New York. Its whole course is about 120 miles, and is navigable from the High Falls in Leyden, where it has a fall of 63 feet, to the Long Falls at Carthage, a distance of 40 miles; thence, by a succession of rapids and falls, it continues a cir- cuitous route, until it empties into Black River Bay, near the foot of Lake Ontario. It is a deep, sluggish stream, but the navigation is much obstructed by falls ; affording, however, fine ]42 LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURGH. vater-power. The land on the borders of the lower part of the river is very fertile and thickly settled ; Jefferson Connty — and the vicinity of Watertown in particular, where is a good water power — is justly celebrated for its agricultural products. Chaumont Bay, situated north of Sacket's Harbor at Black River Bay, is a large body of water abounding in fish of several kinds and fine flavor ; here being extensive fisheries, where are annually taken large quantities of fish. The trip across the foot of Lake Ontario from Sacket's Harbor to Kingston, Can. , 38 miles, is a very interesting excursion during pleasant weather. Here may be seen beautiful headlands and several picturesque islands ; the Fox and Grenadier islands are passed before reaching Grayid or Wolfe Island, attached to Canada. This latter island, situated in the St. Lawi*ence River, at the foot of Lake Ontario, is a large and fertile body of land, being settled by Canadians. Cape Vincent, Jefferson Co., N. Y., is situated at the head of the St. Lawrence River, where terminates the Watertown and Rome Railroad, and is a port of entry. It contains about 1,100 inhabitants, four churches, five hotels and taverns, ten stores, and an extensive storehouse connected with the railroad ; one steam grist-mill, one foundry and machine-shop, one steam planing-mill, and a ship-yard. Steamers arrive and depart daily for different ports on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. A steamer also leaves Cape Vincent twice daily for Kingston, Canada, during navigation ; while in winter, stages run across the ice to Grand or Wolfe Island, and thence to Kingston, distant 12 miles by direct route. Cape Vincent is a healthy and pleasant location, being much resorted to in warm weather by fishing and pleasure parties, being contigu- ous to the *' Thousand Islands.*' Clayton, or French Creek, 18 miles below Cape Vincent, lies opposite Grindstone Island, attachal to the State of New York. The village contains three churches, two public houses.ton stores, and a foundry and machine-shop. Here is an extensive ship. j^krd for the construction of steamers and other lake craft. LHWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OJDKNSBURGH. 143 The Black River and Utica Railroad^ when completed, will extend to Clayton, a distance of 109 miles from Utica, Alexandria Bay, 12 miles below Clayton, is favorably situated on the southeast shore of the St. Lawrence, in the im- mediate vicinity of the greatest cluster of the Thousand Islands. The village contains one Presbyterian church, two good hotels for the accommodation of summer visitors^ three stores, a steam saw-mill, a ship-yard, and about 350 inhabitants. No place on the St, Lawrence River exceeds this vicinity for its salubrity of climate and picturesque water scenery. The islands here, almost innumerable, are annually resorted to by visitors from almost every section of the country for health, and to enjoy the pleasure of fishing and hunting. Well's Island is settled by some 20 or 30 families, and is, no doubt, destined to become a favorite resort, as a hotel is pro- jected, to be located near the foot of this lovely island. MoRHisTowN, N. Y., 11 miles above Ogdensburgh, liea nearly opposite Brockville, C. W,, with which it is connected by a ferry. This is a regular landing-place for the American steamers. The village contains two churches, two taverns, three stores, and about 350 inhabitants. Ogdensburgh, St. Lawrence Co., N. Y., is advantageously situated at the mouth of the Oswegatchie River where it empties into the St. Lawrence. It was first incorporated as a village in 1817, and now contains about 8,000 inhabitants, 1 ,000 dwelling- houses ; one each Episcopal, Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist, and Roman Catholic church — and a Universalist congregation ; an incorporated academy, three banks, two insurance offices, a custom-house, six public houses, 100 stores of different kinds. The Oswegatchie River here furnishes an abundance of water- power, where are situated one woolen factory, two flouring-mills, three grist-mills, three saw-mills, one paper-mill, two planing- mills and two furnaces, a ship-yard and marine railway. This place is situated near the foot of sloop navigation on the St. Lawrence, although steamers of a large class run the Rapids to Montreal, 120 miles, ascending through the St. Lawrence canals 144 LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURGH. Two daily lines of steamers leave Ogdensburgh for Cape Vincent, Kingston, Oswego Toronto, Lewiston, etc., while two daily linea leave Ogdensbui-gh or Prescott for Montreal, etc. Two steam ferry-boats run across the St. Lawrence, here one mile and a half wide, to Prescott, forming a close connection between tho two shores. The JVorthern Railroad extends from Ogdensburgh easterly to Rouse's Point, N. Y., 118 miles, connecting with steamers and railroads extending to Boston and New York. A railroad is also finished, extending from Ogdensburgh and form a junction with the Potsdatn and Watertown Railroad. Propellers and lake craft annually deposit an immense amount of Western produce, to be carried forward by railroads to East- ern markets. As a stopping-place for pleasure travelers, Og- densburgh stands unrivaled, having the Thousand Islands above and the magnificent Rapids of the St. Lawrence below. Passen- gers are here usually transferred from the floating palaces of Lake Ontario to the equally safe but smaller steamers which run the Rapids to Montreal. The jYorthern Transportation Com. has here its branch office for the trans-shipment of produce and merchandise going East and West. This company owns 15 propellers .-fof about 350 tons burden, running from Ogdensburgh and Oswego to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, Milwaukee, Chicago, etc. This line afi^ords a cheap and speedy route of travel for travelers and emigrants. The Oswcgatchie River, which empties into the St. Lawrence at Ogdensburgh, is the outlet of Black Lake, lying in the county of St. Lawrence. The lake and river are navigable for about 25 miles, to within four miles of Ogdensburgh. At the mouth o£ this river, now a part of the village of Ogdensburgh, an early settlement was made by the French, and fortifications erected, ftll of which have gohe to decay. The Trip from Kingston to Ogdensburgh and Montreal is de- Bcribed in another part of this work, following the Canadian route from Hamilton and Toronto to Kingston, Prescott, and Montreal. For further information, see advertisements of Lake Ontario and River St. Lawrence Steamers. TRIP FROM IflAGARA AND HAMILTON TO TORONTO A^^D KINGSTON. CANADA. American and Canadian steamers leave Lewiston, or Niagara, C. W., daily for Toronto, 40 miles from the mouth of Niagara River, connecting with railroad cars from Buffalo and Niagara Falls, running on both sides of the river. A Canadian steamer also leaves Port Dalhousie daily for Toronto, connecting at St. Catherine's with cars on the Great Western Railway, altogether affording great facilities both in summer and winter to resort to the capital of Canada. On leaving the mouth of Niagara River, the steamer pursues a N.W. course direct for Toronto, having, on a clear day, land constantly in sight from the deck of the steamer. Nothing can exceed the pleasure of this trip during pleasant weather. Usually may be seen propellers and sailing vessels on their way to or from Port Dalhousie, the mouth of the Welland Canal, a magnificent work, of which the Canadians are justly proud. Port Dalhousie, 12 miles west of the mouth of Niagara River, and distant 38 miles from Toronto, is a small village situated at the terminus of the Welland Canal, four miles below St. Catherine's, with which place it is connected by the Port Dalhousie and Thorold Railroad^ five miles in length, connect- ing with the Great Western Railway. The Welland Canal, 28 miles in length, connecting Lake Erie with Lake Ontario, and overcoming the Falls of Niagara, is a work alike beneficial to the commercia interests of the United States and Canada, the former paying by far the greatest amount of tolls. The number of locks are 27, being 150 feet in length and 26| feet wide. The total rise is 330 feet. The depth of water is 8| feet, the canal being 45 feet wide at bot- tom and 81 feet at the surface. The feeder branch, from Junc- tion to Dunaville, is 21 miles long. ' The Broad Creek branch 13 146 NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. from feeder to Port Maitland, the terminus on Lake Erie, is 1 J miles in length, with one lock each. The entire cost of the enlarged canal was about £1,000,000 Canadian currency, or $4,000,000. St. Catherine's, 38 miles south of Toronto by water, 11 miles from Suspension Bridge, and 32 miles from Hamilton by railroad route, is advantageously situated on the line of the Welland Canal, here affording a large amount of water-power. This town is a place of great attraction and growing importance, being surrounded by a healthy and rich section of country. Here is a mineral fountain called the *' Artesian Well,'" also several large and well-kept hotels, for the accommodation of invalids and seekers of pleasure. The Stevenson House, near the Spring, and the Welland Hotel, are the most frequented by pleasure travelers. The village contains about 6,000 inhabitants, several fine churches and private edifices, here being exhibited a degree of taste and activity equal to any other town of its size in Cana'la or the United States If the mineral waters prove as beneficial to invalids as is represented by many who have experienced their beneficial effects, it is no doubt destined to become a popular watering-place during the summer months. The " Well" is situated near the bank of the canal, and is 550 feet in depth ; the water being raised by a steam pump to the bath-house, situated on the bank above. The City of Hamilton, from its geographical position, and its peculiar natural and artificial advantages, lying on Burling- ton Bay, at the extreme west end of Lake Ontario, has within the last five or six years rapidly increased in wealth and numbers. But a few short years have passed away since the site on which now stands the crowded city, with its stately edifices and its elegant residences, its thronged streets, and its marts and factories teeming with life and business activity, was a dense forest, the residence and hunting-ground of the Indian. It waa not many years ago that the waters of its beautiful bay, which now bear upon their bosom magnificent steamers and vessels of NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. 14T every grade, bringiug to our port the treasures of other lands, and conveying to Eastern markets the products of the West, were calm and unruffled, save when the red man launched his barque upon ihe blue expanse, or when lashed into fury by the angry tempest. Hamilton was first laid out in the year 1813, during the war with the United States, but for many years it progressed but 8lowly in population and importance. By the census of 1841 it numbered 3,446 inhabitants. During the succeeding four years the population nearly doubled, and by the census of 1861 the numbers had increased to 19,000. From that period to the present the city has progressed with almost unexampled rapidity for Canada. The city is governed by a mayor and board of aldermen and councilors, together with a police department. The public buildings are a city hall, city hospital, post-of&ce building, custom-house, market building, twenty churches of different denominations, five banks, and a mechanics' institute ; many being large edifices, erected in a durable style of architecture. The principal hotels are the Anglo-American, International, and Royal Hotel, situated on James Street. The Great Western Railway of Canada, running from Suspen- sion Bridge to Windsor, has its head offices and machine shops here A branch of the Great Western Railway extends to Toronto, connecting with the Grand Trunk Riilway, running East and West. The Desjardins Canal, four miles in length, connects Hamilton with Dundas. The exports of Hamilton for the year 1861, as shown by the last census, were valued at $1,674,297, and the imports for the same time were $2,656,639. The amount of duties collected was $437,457. Distant from Niagara Falls, 45 miles ; Wind- sor, 183 ; Toronto 38 miles, and from Montreal, by rail. 372 miles. Steamers, during the season of navigation, run from Hamilton to Toronto, Kingston, and other ports on Lake Ontario, afford- 148 NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. ing a speedy and delightful mode of conveyance, not only through the lakes, but down the St. Lawrence River to Prescott, Ogdensburgh, and Montreal. Wellington Square, seven miles below Hamilton, is a place of some importance, it being the outport for Hamilton during the winter months, when the lake is obstructed by ice. Bronte, 13 miles below Hamilton, is a small village con- taining about 400 inhabitants. Here are two public houses, two churches, a grist-mill, a cloth factory, and several lumber yards. Oakville, 19 miles from Hamilton, and about the same dis- tance from Toronto, is a place of considerable business, having a good harbor. It contains about 1 ,000 inhabitants ; four churches, several public houses and stores ; a foundry, and other manu- facturing establishments. The country in the rear is healthy and productive, being drained by several fine streams. Port Credit, 12 miles from Toronto, is a large shipping port for produce of different kinds. It is situated at the mouth of River Credit, here flowing into Lake Ontario. It was once a favorite resort of the Indians, receiving its name, in early times, from the circumstance of the fur traders here meeting the Indians, and delivering to them on credit their goods, for which the following year they received their value in furs. TOEONTO. The City of Toronto, and capital of Canada, is favorably situated on Toronto Bay, in 43° 32' N. lat., and 79° 20' W. long, from Greenwich. It is 40 miles N.E. Hamilton, 160 W. from Kingston, 333 from Montreal, and 4i3 from Quebec by railroad route. The bay is a beautiful sheet of water, about 4 miles long and 2 miles wide, separated from the main body of Lake Ontario, except at its entrance, by a long, narrow strip of sandy beach, the southvest termination of which is known as Gibral- tar Point, on which is located a light-house. NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. 149 " Toronto signifies, in the Indian language, a place ofn eet- ing. In 1793 , when surveyed by the elder Bouchette, under the orders of Gov. Simcoe, two Massasauga families were the only inhabitants it contained, and the harbor was a resort for numer- ous wild fowl, while its waters produced an abundance of fish." It was incorporated as a city in 1834, when it contained 9,254 inhabitants. In 1842 it had increased to 15,436 ; in 1852, to 30,763 ; and in 1861, to over 45,000. It is laid out with wide streets, crossing each other at right angles. The esplanade fronting the bay extends for a distance of two miles. The city is lighted with gas, and is well supplied with pure water by companies incorporated for those purposes. The principal public buildings are the Parliament House, the University of Toronto, Trinity College, Upper Canada College, the Lunatic Asylum, the Custom House, the Post Office, St. James' Church (the English cathedral), and the Ptoman Cath- olic Cathedral; besides which there are a great number of churches of different denominations. The Bank of Upper Canada has its head office here, and there are other banks and agencies ; also several Fire and Marine Insurance Companies. This is the principal office of the Canada Land Company, which has nearly two millions of acres of land for sale, situated in various parta of the Province. The hotels and public houses are numerous and well kept, making this city a desirable sojourn. The 4.me)ican Hotel and the Queen's Hotel, both fronting the bay, are the most frequented. Toronto has become a great thoroughfare by means of steam- ers and railroads. A constant intercourse is thus kept up with the different ports on Lake Ontario, the Upper Lakes, and the St. Lawrence River. Steamers run from Toronto to Hamilton, St. Catherine's, Niagara, and Lewiston on the west and south ; to Rochester and Oswego on the east ; and to Cape Vincent, Kingston, Prescott, Montreal, etc., on the northeast. The Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad, 94 miles in length, terminates at CoUingwood, on Georgian Bay, connecting with the waters of Lake Huron. The Grand Trunk Railway ex- 150 NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. tends northeast to Montreal and Quebec, while its western termination is near Port Sarnia, lying at the foot of Lake Huron. The Toronto and Hamilton Railroad, a branch of the Great Weslern Eaibvay oi CeLnada, also terminates here, affec— Quebec to River du Lotjp. 1856 . Napoleon 114. Montreal— Montreal to Quebec. '• . Victoria 114 . Montreal— Montreal to Quebec l62 CANALS OF CANADA. CANALS OF CANADA, SHOWING THEIE LENGTH, LOCKS, ETC. Length iu miles. Names, etc. Welland Canal. Main Trunk, Port Colborne to Pt. Dalhousie 28 Dunnville Feeder, junction to Dunnville 21 Broad Creek Branch 1| St. Lawrence. The Gallops 2 Point Iroquois 3 Rapid Plat 4 Farren's Point | Cornwall Hi (Long Saut Rapids) BSAUHARNOIS Ill (Cascade, Cedars, etc.) La Chine 8A Lockage in feet. 27 330 1 1 8^ 8 ^ £1,061,497 2 8 ' 1 2 6 ll.i » £1,052,601 1 7 4 J 48 82| 45 £365,381 £481,736 Total, from L. Erie to Montreal Add fall not requiring locks . Fall from Montreal to tide- water at Three Riv., C. E. 69 64 Grand total 635 feet. 17 13 565 feet. NoTK.— Lake Huron is elevated nine feet above Lake Erie, and Lake Superior is elevated 26 feet above Lake Huron- making a total elevation above tide-water, or the ocean, of 600 feet, according to recent surveys. Chambly Canal. . . (River Richelieu) St. Ours Lock, do. . . Len-th In mili^s. . 11^ . 126 Locks. 9 1 1 37 74 6 St. Anne's Lock. (Ottawa lliver) RiuKAU Canal. Kingston to Ottawa City . Ottawa Canal and Locks 457 £965,000 £117,647 TRIP FROM KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. Thk American steamers on leaving Kingston on their trip to Ogdensburgh run between Grand Island and Howe Island, two large islands belonging to the British, when they enter £he American Channel of the St. Lawrence and land at Clayton, situated at the mouth of French Creek, while the Canadian steamers usually run the North or British Channel, passing Gananoqui, 20 miles below Kingston. This is usually the first landing made by the British steamers in descentiing the river, unless they stop to take in wood at some of the numerous islands. The Thousand Islands. — The remarkable group of islands in the River St. Lawrence called " The Thousand hlniids" commences opposite the city of Kingston, and stretches down the river for between 40 and 50 miles, for which distance the St. Lawrence is between six and twelve miles wide. They lie partly in Canada and partly within the bounds of the State of New York, the boundary line between the United States and Canada dividing them into about equal parts. From an examination of Bayfield's chart of the St. Lawrence River, it appears that Wolfe or Grand Island, belonging to the British, is 18 miles long and from one to six miles wide. This is the largest island of the group, and contains much good land, being inhabited by a number of families. A canal is com- menced, extending across this island, to facilitate trade with Cape Vincont. Gage Island, lying west of Grand Island, is three miles long. On its southwest end may be seen a light-house as you approach Kingston from Toronto or Oswego. The American boats usually tun between this island and Wolfe Island, through the Packet or Bateau Channel. On Garden Island, opposite Kingston, is situated a large lumber establishment, where may usually be seen vessels taking in lumber, destined for different ports. 164 KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. Howe Island, also belonging to the British, is eight miles long, and from one to two miles wide, lying near the Canada shore. The usual steamboat route, on ascending and descending the river, is between this island and Wolfe Island, running through the JLingsfon or British Chatinfl, a wide expanse of ^water, extending from near Kingston to French Creek, on the American side. The American Channel runs east of Wolfe or Grand Island, between that and Cape Vincent, where extends the boundary line between the two countries, this being considered the main channel. Carletoiv Island, belonging to the United States, is situ- ated nearly opposite Cape Vincent. It contains about 1,200 acres of excellent land, and is an important island, as it com- mands the American Channel of the St. Lawrence, and has two fine coves or harbors at the upper end, where are extensive lumber stations. Here was erected a fort by the British in 1777, and it became their principal military and naval depot for Lake Ontario during the Revolutionary War. Some yeara afterward, the shipping and public stores were removed to Kingston, but the island was retained and occupied by British troops until 1812, when the guard was surprised and taken by a party of Ncav York militia. Tlie waters of the St. Lawrence among the islands here vary at different seasons from three to four feet in height, exposing some hundreds of islets at its lowest stage. The fish most abundant are the maskalonge, pickerel, black bass, pike, perch, rock bass, cat-fish, and eels. The maskalonge, pickerel, and black bass are taken by trolling ; the pike aro taken in nets, and the perch, rock bass, etc , are taken by hook and line. On the isLinds are found deer, foxes, raccoons, rabbits, squir- rels, muski'ats, and minks ; also partridges, quail, and wild ducks in abundance. Grindstone Island, five and a half miles long, belongs to the United States. This is a large island, lying in the mid- KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. lf>5 die of the river, a short distance below the mouth of French Creek. Here, it is said, the noted Bill Johnson has his favorite abode, either on the main island, or the small island in its im- mediate vicinity, called Johnson's Island. Well's Island, another large and important island, eight or nine miles in length, is attached to the State of New York ; it lies mostly above the village of Alexandria, the boundary line running on its west side, where lies a beautiful body of water, called the " Lake of the Thousand Islands," which is a favor- ite resort for the angler and sportsman The Admiralty Islands are a group lying below Howe Island, and belong to the British. Here the Canadian Channel becomes a perfect labyrinth for a number of miles, and the navigation would be very dangerous were it not for the great depth of water and bold shores (#the islets, and light houses. The Fleet Group, or Navy Islands, commence opposite Grindstone Island, on the Canadian side of the river, and ex- tends for some distance below to opposite Well's Island. Here the boundary line runs close to the latter island, giving most of the small islands to the British. The Old Friknds are a small group immediately below Well's Island, belonging to the United States. The Indian Group also lie on the American side of the chan- nel, a few miles below the latter islands. The Amateur Islands lie in the middle of the river, oppo- site Chippewa Creek, and are, in part, attached to the State of New York, and a part belong to Canada, the boundary line running between them. Immediately below the latter islands the river contracts to one or two miles in width, and the Thousand Islands, of which there are at least fourteen hundred, may be said to terminate, although a large collection of islands called Brock's Group, lying mostly on the Canada side, are passed a short distance below the village of Brockville, where the St. Lawrence River is about one mile wide, which width it averages for 30 or 40 miles, until you approach the rapids below Ogdensburgh, when 166 KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. it narrows to about half a mile in width, with banks efevated •but a few feet above the water. " The main stream of the St. Lawrence," says Buckingham, speaking of the Thousand Islands, "is so thickly studded with iblands that it is like passing through a vast archipelago, rather than navigating a mighty river. They are for the most part rocky islets, sometimes rising in abrupt cliifs from the water, and so bold and steep that you may run the boat near enough to touch the cliffs from the vessel. A few only are low and flat, but being nearly all wooded, they form a perpetual succession of the most romantically beautiful and picturesque groups that can be conceived." Among the Thousand Islands are usually found immense quantities of water-fowl and other kinds of wild game, which, during the spring and summerlhonths, afford great pleasure to the sportsman. The fishing is also excellent for the most part of the year. During the months of July and August, pleasure parties from the surrounding country, and strangers from a distance, resort here for their amusement, enjoying themselves to their heart's content by hunting, fishing, and bathing, being surrounded by wild and interesting scenery and invigorating air, not exceeded by any section of the United States or Canada. The St. Lawrence River, in fact for its entire length of sev- eral hundred miles, presents a magnificent appearance, well worthy the attention of the tourist. The Rapids, now success- fully navigated on their downward trip by steamboats of a large class, returning through the canals, afford a deeply interesting excursion. The cultivated fields and settlements interchanging with bolder features, impart a grandeur as well as variety and beauty to the river and its shores which no other stream on the continent possesses in an equal degree. Brockville, 50 miles below Kingston and 125 miles above Montreal by railroad route, is a beautiful and flourishing town of about 5,000 inhabitants ; it contains a court-house and jail, a custom-house, several churches, two good hotels, and many fine buildings, besides several extensive manufacturing establish- KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 16T ments. Here is a convenient steamboat landing, where the American and British passage-boats usually land on their trips up and down the river, the stream here being about two miles in width. The Grand Trunk Railway, which runs through the town, has added much to the growth and trade of this place. The Brockvillc and Ottawa Railroad, which is in the course of con- struction, when finished, will further add to its prosperity, the country in the rear being very fertile and heavily timbered, producing large quantities of grain and lumber. Maitland is a small village, five miles below Brockville, on the same side. It contains a church, a public house, and some 300 inhabitants. The town of Prescott, C. W., is situated on the north bank of the St. Lawrence, directly opposite Ogdensburgh, being 60 miles below Kingston and 113 miles above Montreal by railroad route. This point may be considered as the foot of lake and river navigation for sail vessels, as the Gallop Rapids occur about six miles below, where commences the first of the series of the St. Lawrence canals, terminating with the La Chine Canal, which enters Montreal. Prescott is a port of entry and contains a custom-house, a town-hall, four churches, six public houses, 20 or 30 stores, a foundry and machine-shop, together with several breweries and distilleries, and three extensive laundries. This is also a great depot for lumber and country produce. British and American steamers usually land at Prescott several times daily on their route up and down the St. Lawrence. Two Bteam ferry-boats are also constantly running between this place and Ogdensburgh. The Grand Trunk Railway passes through the town, and the Ottaiva and Prescott Railroad, 53 miles in length, terminates here, affording a speedy and direct route to Ottawa City and the lumber region above. No section of Canada has fairer prospects of advancement than Brockville and Prescott, if the advantages are embraced of forming lines of railroads to the upper Ottawa country, lying 08 they do nearer to that heavily timbered region than MontreaL 168 KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. Fort Wellington, adjoining the lower part of the town, is a strong fortification usually garrisoned by more or less British troops. Windmill Pomx, one mile and a half below the fort, was the scene of an unfortunate attack by the patriots of 1838, who, after effecting a landing and maintaining their position with -great determination for several days, were taken prisoners, many of whom were afterward executed at Kingston, and others tran- sported to Van Dieman's Land. KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 169 EAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. On resuming the downward trip, after leaving Prescott or Ogdensburgh, the most interesting objects are presented to view from the dtck of the steamer. The depot buildings of the North- ern Railroad of Now York, on the one side, and Windmill Point on the Canada side, are quickly passed and the Rapids soon reached. Chimnky Isr>AND, four miles below Prescott, is an interest- ing spot, where may be seen the remains of a fortification, erected by the French during the early settlement of Canada. The Gallop Rapids, six miles below Prescott or Ogdensburgh, are easily passed by steamboats, although they prevent the navigation of the St. Lawrence by sail vessels. They extend for about two miles, around which is a ship canal on the Canada side of the river, overcoming a descei^t of seven feet. Matilda, eight miles farther, is a convenient steamboat landing on the Canada side of the river, where is a canal one mile and three-quarters in length. Waddington, on the American shore, 18 miles below Og- densburgh, lies opposite Ogden's Island, which is passed to the right, descending through the main channel, forming the bound- ary line. Here commences Rapid Plat, and extends about tv/o and a half miles. Another canal of the same length is built on the Canada shore, to overcome the descent in the river of eleven and a half feet. Williamsburg, seven miles below Matilda, is a regular steamboat landing, v/here passage-boats usually touch ascend- ing and descending the river. Here is another short canal. Chrysler's Farm, a few miles below Williamsburg, is the place where was fought a battle in the war of 1812, between the English and Americans, in which the latter were defeated, with considerable loss in killed and wounded. Louisville Landing, 28 miles below Ogdensburgh, is where passengers leave for Massena Springs, six miles distant by stage. This is a great resort for invalids during warm weather. lYO KINGSTON TO MONTREAL, The Long Saut Rapids, extending from Dickinson's Land- ing, 40 miles below Prescott, to Cornwall on the Canada side, is one of the longest and most important rapids of the St. Law- rence. They are divided by islands into two channels, the American Channel and the Lost Channel.* Formerly, the American, or East Channel, was mostly run by steamers in the downward trip, but of late the Lost Channel, on the Canadian side, is mostly used. This channel presents a grand and ter- rific appearance, the water being lashed into a white foam for several miles, yet still the steamer glides rapidly through them into the quiet and beautiful expanse of water below Cornwall. The CoR^rwALL Canal commences 72 miles above Montreal, on about the 45th degree of north latitude, the dividing line be- tween the United States and Canada. It extends to Dickinson's Landing, 11 J miles, overcoming 48 feet descent in the St. Law- rence. Barnhart Island and Long Saut Island, two large and cultivated bodies of lijfed, belong to the State of New York, while Cornwall Island and Sheek's Island belong to Canada, dividing the v^aters of the St. Lawrence into two channels, for most of the distance through the rapids. Cornwall, 112 miles from Kingston and 70 miles above Montreal, is situated on the northwest side of the river, at the * Pa8s\ge of the Long Saut Rapid.— Those who have traveled on the t. Lawrence are aware that between Dickinson's Landing and Cornwall, a: distance of from twelve to fourteen miles, there is a long rapid called the Zo7ie escoj'ted to Fort Edward, on condition of not serving against the French within the period of eighteen months. " The garrison had no sooner marched out of the fort than a scene of periidy and barbarity commenced, which it is impos- tjible lor language to describe. Regardless of the articles of capitulation, the Indians attached to the French army fell upon ♦ Bee Thomj sou's Vermont, Part II., page 8. LAKE GEORGE, OR HORICON. 199 the deffmseless soldiers, plundering and murdering all that fell in their way. The French otficers were idle spectators of this bloody scene ; nor could all the entreaties of Monroe pei'suade them to furnish the promised escort. On that fatal day about 1,500 of the English were either murdered by the savages or carried by them into captivity never to return. " The day following these horrid transactions, Mnjor Putnam was dispatched from Fort Edward with his rangers to watch the motions of the enemy. He reached Lake George just after the rear of the enemy had left the shore, and the scene which was presented he describes as awful indeed. ' The fort was entirely destroyed ; the barracks, out-houses, and buildings were a heap of ruins— the cannon, stores, boats, and vessels were all carried away. The fires were still burning — the smoke and stench offensive and suffocating Innumerable fragments of human skulls, and bones and carcasses half consumed, were still frying and broiling in the decaying fires. Dead bodies mangled with .scalping-knives and tomahawks, in all the wan- tonness of Indian barbarity, were everywhere to be seen. More than 100 women, butchered and shockingly mangled, lay upon the ground still weltering in their gore. Devastation, barbar- ity, and horror everywhere appeared ; and the spectacle pre- sented was too diabolical and awful either to be endured or described.' " STEAMER ON LAKE GEOEGE. A NEW steamboat is being built on Lake George in the place of the John Jay, burned in July last. She is 145 feet long and 26 feet wide. The boiler and furnace are placed in com- partments, incased in iron, entirely fire-proof, no expense being spared in order to make her a beautiful and safe passenger boat. Her name, " Minne-ha-ha," a romantic one, is selected with great appropriateness from Longfellow's Hiawatha • "With him' dwelt his dark-eyed daughter, Wayward as the Minnehaha ; With her moods of shade and sunshine, Eyes that frowned and smiled alternate, ' Feet as rapid as the river, Tre.sses flowing like the water, And as musical a laughter ; And he named her from the river, From the waterfall he named her Jdixme-ha'hsi— laughing water." 200 FALLS OF TICONDEROGA. The Falls of Ticonderoga, situated on the outlet of^ako George, are well worthy the attention of tourists. Here are two important cascades within the distance of two or three miles, surrounded by mountain scenery of great historic in- terest. The Upper Falls, near the village of Alexandria, are ^^brmcd by a* succession of descents of upward of 200 feet within the distance of a mile, aifording water-power unsurpassed by any other locality in the State for safety and a steady flow of water, the stream not being subject to freshets. The Lower Fall, in the village of Ticonderoga, has a perpendicular fall of 30 feet, being much used for hydraulic purposes. The ruins of old B\)rt Ticonderoga, two miles below this place, are situ- ated on a point of land at the entrance of the outlet of Lake George into Lake Champlain, standing on an eminence of about 60 feet, overlooking the lake ; the ruins are plainly visible from the water, presenting a conspicuous and interesting object. About 1,800 yards southwest stands Mount Defiance, rising 750 feet above the lake, overlooking and commandiug the site of Fort Ticonderoga. A public house, for the accommodation of visitors, stands near the steamboat landing. DISTANCES FROM CALDWELL TO ALBANY, via SARATOGA SPRINGS. CALDWELL ALBANY Glenns Falls, ^tage. . 9 9 Troy 6 6 Moreau Station " ..5 14 Cohoes 3 9 Saratoga Springs. . 15 29 Waterford 1 10 Sallston Spa 7 30 Junction Albany Pt.R 2 12 Mechanicsville 13 49 Mechanfcsville 6 18 15 29 7 30 13 49 6 55 2 57 , 1 58 , 3 Gl .Junction Albany R.R. 6 55 Ballston Spa 13 31 Waterford 2 57 Saratoga Springs. . 7 32 Cohoes 1 58 Moreau Station 15 53 Troy 3 Gl Glenns Falls, Stage. . 5 58 ALBANY 6 67 CALDWELL " ..9 67 LAKE CIIAMPLAI^f. One of the most interesting and lovely bodies of water in North America lies between the States of New York and Ver- mont, throngh which runs the boundary line from near White- hall to lat. 45^, being a distance of 116 miles; it may be said to extend four miles farther, into Canada, making the whole length of the lake 120 miles; varying from half a mile or less to twelve miles in width. Its direction is nearly north and south, and it is a long, narrow, and deep body of water, dotted with a number of islands, the largest of which beV)ng to Ver- mont. From Whitehali to Crown Point the lake is quite nar- row, but here it begins to expand, and soon becomes three miles wide, still increasing northward until near Burlington, where it spreads to its greatest width. Missisquoi Bay, an extension of Lake Champlain on the northeast, lies mostly in Canada, above the 45th degree of north latitude. Steamboats of the first class, and sloops of from 50 to 100 tons burden, navigate Lake Champlain its whole length, thence down the Sorelle, or Richelieu River, its outlet, to St. John's, Canada, where steamboat navigation ceases ; a total distance of about 140 miles. This lake is also connected with the navigable waters of the Hudson, by means of the Champlain Canal, which extends south, a distance of 68 miles. As you approach near the center of Lake Champlain, a large body of water presents itself to view, bordered by scenery of the most picturesque description ; the headlands which are seen to great advantage, and the vast ranges of mountains on either side, are truly grand and romantic. The highest peak of the Green Mountains, called the " Camel's Himip" is seen on the east, while the high ranges of the mountains of Essex County are seen on tlie west. This latter range of mountain peaks, ihe Adirondack 202 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. group, contains the highest land in the State of New York, rising in some places to the height of 5,000 feet and upward, abounding with iron ore and timber of large growth. In the streams which flow into this lake are frequent waterfalls of great beauty ; and the fine headlands, with numerous indenta- tions and bays of singular beauty, only need to be seen to be admired. Its waters- are well stored with salmon, salmon trout, sturgeon, pickerel, and other fish. " Lake Champlain was discovered by Samuel Champlain in July, 1609, having founded the colony of Quebec in 1008; in June, 1809, he, with a number of French and Indians, pro- ceeded in a shallop up the St. Lawrence and river Iroquois, now Richelieu, till stopped by the Cliambly Rapids. From this place he determined to proceed in Indian canoes, but the Frenchmen manifested great reluctance, and only two would be p3rsuaded to accompany him. With these and about sixty of the natives, having transported their canoes by the rapids on the 2d of July, and, proceeding southward, on the 4th of July he entered the lake " Champlain and his party proceeded along the west shore, advancing by water during the night and retiring into the forests by day, to avoid being discovered by the Iroquois, be- tween whom and the Canada Indians a war was then carried on. As they drew near the enemy's country they proceeded with great caution, but on the 29th of July, in the evening, they fell in with a large war party of the Iroquois. Both parties drew up to the shore, and the night was spent in preparation for battle, and in singing and taunting each other. In the morning an engagement took place, but the Frenchmen being armed with muskets, it was decided in favor of Champlain and his party, a large number of the Iroquois being slain and seve- ral taken prisoners. AVith these they returned immediately to their sliallop. Champlain says that this battle was fought in lat. 43° and some minutes, and tlie place is supposed to have been on the west shore of Lake George. The present name of Lake Champlain was given by its discoverer during his first visit, as he informs us in his journal. He was not drowned in its waters, as has been sometimes said, but died at Quebec in 1035. One of the Indian names of this lake was Petawa-Bouque, signifying alternate land and water, in allu- sion to the numerous islands and projecting points of land. Another is said to have been Caniadcri- Guariinte, signifying the mouth or door of the country. If so, it was very appropriate, as it forms the gate-way between the country on the St. Law- LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 203 rence and that on the Hudson. In more recent times the In- dians called it Corlear, in honor of a Dutchman who saved a war party of Canada Indians from being destroyed by the Mo- hawks in IGGo. " The first steamboat built on this lake commenced running in 1809. The line bbats have always been favorably known to travelers either for business or pleasure, for the manner in which they have been managed— their neat and orderly ap- pearance-obliging and attentive officers and efficient crews. At present there are daily lines to and from "Whitehall and Rouse's Point, stopping at Ticonderoga, Burlington, Plattsburgh, and intermediate places, connecting with the various railroads also numerous ferry boats, propellers, and tow boats, besides more than 300 sloops, canal boats, barges, etc." Chaivplain Canal connects the waters of the Hudson with Lake Champlain. It is 64 miles long, 40 feet wide at the top and 28 at the bottom, with a navigable /eet/er at Sandy Hill 11 miles long. It has 21 locks, 14 by 90 feet. Rise from the Hudson, 134 feet, fall to the lake, 54; was begun in 1816, finished in 1819, and cost SI ,079,872. The route of this canal is interest- ing on account of its passing through a section of country ren- dered memorable by important military operations. It passes in part along the line of Burgoyne's advance from Lake Cham- plain— near the scene of his principal battles — and of his final surrender. It passes near Fort jNIiller— Fort Edward— the spot where Miss M'Crea was murdered — Fort Anne — the tree to which Gen. Putnam was bound in 1757, etc. Height of tti^j Principal Moun- Altitude op the Principal Moun- tain Pevks iv Vermont— Green TAINS Northern New York— MOOTAIN PvANGB. ADIRONDACK GrOUP. j^-^vK A'titude above Sea. Na:hk. Altitude above Sea. Chin, or Nortli Peak, Mans- Mount Marcy, f "1 5,46T ft field Mountain 4,279 ft Mount Mcln- Essex ^^^^^^ Camel's Hump. Huntington 4,183 " , tire . . ■■■■ \ ^ ^ \ 5,1S3 Shrewsbury Mountain .... 4,086 " Mount McMar- County. Nose, or South Peak, Mans- tin I. J ^-^X « field Mountain 3,988 " Dial Mountam 4,900 Killin^ton Peak. Sherburne 3,924 " Whiteface Mt 4,800 Equinox Mountain, Man- Mount Seward Franklin Co. 4,600 ^l^ester 3,706 " Mount Lyon, Chnton Co. . . 4,000 « Ascutney Mt,, Windsor. . . . 3,320 *' Surface of Lake Champlain, above tide 90 feet. " Lake George " " 243 LakeCijtario • " 234 " 204 LIST OF STEAMERS, £TC. i.lST OF STEzlMERS BUILT AND RUNNING ON LAKE CHAM PLAIN SINCE 1S09. Hui'f N;itne T^'ii-i. W\v- a built. Remarks. lSf)9. .Vermont* 167 . . Burlinijton, Vt— sunk Oct., 1815. 1815. . Phoenix (1st) 386. . Vergennes, Vt.— burnt Sept., 1819. 1817..CharnpUi!n 123. .Ycrgennea, Vt.— burnt 1S17. 181 9 . . Congress 2rr9 . . Vergennes. Vt.— broken up. 1820 .Phoenix ('2d) 346. .Vergennes, Vt.~- broken up. lS-25 . . Gen. Greene l-;5 . . Burlington, Vt, — broken up. 1827 . . Franklin . ., 312 . . St. Albans, Vt.— bioken up. " . . V/ashington 134. .Essex, N. Y.— broken up. IS'38 . . M'Donough 133 . . St. Albans, Vt.— lost 184L. 1832 . . Winooski 159 . . Burlington, Vt.— broken up, " .. Water- Witeh 107 Fort Cassin. Vt.— changed to schooner 1837. .Burlington 482. .Shelburne, Y*-— ^^''oken up. 1838. .Whitehall 461 . . Whiloliall, IS. Y. -broken up. 1842 . . Saranac 331 . . Shelburne, Vt.— broken up, " ..Bouquet 81 Essex, N. Y. — broken up. 1845. .Francis Saltus 873 .Whitehall. N. Y. 1847.. United States 566.. Shelburne, Vt, " ..Ethan Alleji 500 Shelburne, Vt. 1851.. Boston 219. .Shelburne. Vt. 1852.. America 681 . .Whitehall, N, Y. 1853. .Canada 718. . Wiiitehall. N. Y. 1856.. Montreal 416. .Siielhurne, Vt. " . Oliver Bascora 360 . . Whitehall, N. Y. STEAMERS BUILT ON LAKE GEORGE. Biiilf. Nmiiu'. Wi^e.e l.uilt. Rcninrks. 1817. .Caldwell, (1st) Ticonderoga -burnt 1S21. 1824. .Mountaineer Caldwell - condemned 1337. 1838 . Caldwell, (2d) Ticonderoga— broken up. 18.52 . . John Jay burnt, July, 1856 1857 . . Min-ne-ha-ha Caldwell, AMERICAN STEAMERS RUNNING ON LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 1S64. (day anb night line.) Namd. Tons. Amkbica, Capt. H. Mayo.. 681 Canada, Capt. Win. Flagg 718 Umted S'Iates, Capt. ) ^qq Wm. Ander&on . . j '^ Montreal, — — Mayo. ... 410 Boston, Capt. Chapiii 219 From and To, Whitehall to Burlington and Rouse's Point. Burlington to Plattsbiirgh, Burlington to Rouse's Point. * r-uiit and run by Capt. John Winants, Fare $7 from Whitehall to 6t, John's, Can. STEAMBOAT AND RAILROAD ROUTES. 205 FRKIGHT BOATS. Ethan Allen, C apt. Wright. 500 Whitehall to St. John's Can. Oliver I'xiscom. " Eldrids^e, 3j0 James H Hooker, Propeller " " STEAMBOAT AND EAILEOAD ROUTE FROM WniTEITALL TO BURLINGTON, ROUSE'S POINT, AND MONTREAL. Landings, etc. Miles. Stations, etc. Miles. Whitehall, N. Y. . MoNTRE^L, Can Benson, Vt 13 St. John's, «^ . . . . 21 Orwell, " . 7-20 . 4-24 Bouse' s Point, N. Y... Plattsburgh, " . . 23-14 TioonderoQ;a, N. Y. . . 25-69 Larabce's Point. Vt. . . 1-25 Port Kent, " .. 15-84 Crown Point, N. Y.. . . 8 33 BURLIXGTON, Vt. . . . 10-94 Port Henry, " . . . 8-41 Essex, N. Y 14-108 Westport, " . . . 9-50 Westport, " 12-120 Essex, " . 12-62 Port Henry, N. Y 9-129 BURLIXGTON", Vt. . . . . 14-76 Crown Point, " 8-137 Port Kent, N. Y . 10-86 Larabee's Point, Vt. . . 8-145 Plattsbur^h, " . 15-101 Ticonderoira, N. Y. . . . 1-146 Rouse's Point, N. Y. . 25-126 Orwell,. Vt 4-150 St. John's, Can . 23-149 Benson, " 7-157 MON-TRKAL, " . 21-170 Whitehall, N. Y. . . 13-170 Usual Time from Whitehall to Rouse's Point, 9 hours, Fare.... $4 00 ** " " Rouse's Point to Montreal, 2 hours. Fare. . . . 2 00 RAILROAD ROUTE FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY. Stations. Miles. Total Miles. WHITEHALL . . Fort Anne 11 11 Fort Edward... 12 28 Moreau Station . 1 24 Saratoga Springs 15 39 Ballston Spa ... 46 Mechanicsville . . 13 .... 59 Waterford . 8 67 Troy 4 71 ALBANY 6 77 Usual Time, 3 J hours. Fare, $2 38. 206 WHITEHALL. The village of AVhitehall, 77 miles north of Albany by Yailroad route, is situated in a narrow valley at the head of Lake Chaniplain, and at the junction of the Champlaiu Canal with the lake, being a secure and important naval station in time of war. The village was incorporated in 1 820, and now contains four churches, three hotels, a bank, 30 stores of different Idnds, several storehouses, and extensive forwarding houses ; two ship-yards and two dry docks, where are built and repaired steamboats, lake craft, and canal boats ; machine-shops, brick-yards, tanneries, and other manufacturing establishments Population about 4,000. Besides the daily line of steamers running from Whitehall to Burlington, Plattsburgh, and Rouse's Point on the north, the Saratoga and fVhiiehall Railroad extends 40 miles south, to Saratoga Springs, and a branch railroad extends east to Rut- land, Vt., connecting with the Rutland and Burlington Rail- road, thus forming speedy facilities for reaching New York and Boston by railroad routes. In the immediate vicinity of Whitehall are high and rugged hills, while to the south lies the valley formed by Wood Crcek^ heading near the banks of the Hudson. Through this valley, during the old French War of 1759, and the Revolutionary War of 1776, the French, the British, and the American armies each marshaled their forces preparatory to attack, or on their retreat This place was formerly called SkecJieshoroiigh. The Indian name was said to be Kah-sha-quah-na., or place where dip fish. Here, during the Revolutionary War, for a time, was the rendezvous of the American forces ; this point and Lake George being the only two accessible approaches from Canada, by the invading foe, under Gen. Burgoyne. Here, too, during the old French War, Gen. Putnam distinguished him self, both in battle and in an adroit escape from Indian foes, hav- ing, it is said, plunged into the lake about one mile north of Skeencsborough, and swam his horse to the opposite shore, thus eluding their pursuit. Peaceful pursuits and pleasure now render this place a great thoroughfare TRIP FROM WHITEHALL TO BURLIXGTON A^^D ROUSE'S POIXT. This excursion, during the summer months, is the most grand and interesting of any of similar extent in North Amerfca — passing through a romantic lake, with high mountains in the distance, and past scenes rendered classic by their associations with events that occurred during the old French and Revolu- tionary wars. On leaving the new steamboat wharf, about one mile north of Whitehall, an interest is at once excited in the breast of all intelligent travelers. The hills rise abruptly to the height of several hundred feet, while the lake or outlet of Wood Creek is hemmed in for several miles by rocky cliffs. The Elbow, the JVarrows, the Pulpit, and other names, are given to the most interesting points. Bi:NsoN, 13 miles below Whitehall, is the first steamboat landing. Here the waters begin to widen to about half a mile in width. Orwell, seven miles farther, is another steamboat landing. Here the lake widens from one to two miles. TiccNDEROGA, 24 uiiles north of Whitehall, and four miles east of the foot of Lake George, is a sacred and romantic spot, where is a convenient steamboat landing and a good hotel, be- sides the celebrated ruins of the old Fort. Fort Ticonderoga. — The ruins of this old foi'tification are situated in the town of Ticonderoga, Essex Co., on the west side of Lake Champlain. at the entrance of the outlet cf Lake George, 24 miles north of Whitehall. This place was originally called Che-on-der-o-ga by the Indians, signifying, in their language, noise, and applied to the falls in the outlet of Lake George ; its name was afterward slightly changed by the French into its 208 -WHITEnALL TO ROUSE's POINT. presant appellation, "which it has borne ever since it wns first occupied and fortified by them in 1756. Tm ibrt was ;it first nao-ed Fort Carillon, but afterward called Fort Ticonderoga by the English and Americans This fortification cost the French government a large sum of money, and was considered very strong, both by nature and art. It stands on a point of land elevated 70 feet above Lake Champlain, being surrounded on three sides by water, and on the northwest it was defended by st]*ong breastworks. Mouiit Independence ^ on the opposite or east side of the lake, was also fortified, and some of the in- trenchmeuts are still visible, elevated 110 feet above the lake, and overlooking the peninsula of Ticonderoga. After several sanguinary conflicts in this vicinity, and under the very walls of the fort, in which several thousa,nd lives were sacrificed, this important military position was tamely evacuated by the French in 1759, and given up to the British army under Lord Amherst ; who retained possession until it was taken by surprise by Col. Ethan Allen, of the American army, in 1775. He is said to have entered the fort through a subterraneous passage from the south, extending to the lake ; surprising ihe commandant in his bed before he was aware of his danger, and in his characteristic way required the officer to surrender. He asked to whom .' " Why, to Jehovah and the Continental Congress, to be sure," vras his laconic reply. In 1777, the British army, under Gen. Burgoyne, on their route to Saratoga, appeared in array before Ticonderoga, when Gen. St. Clair, the American commander, was forced tc evacuate ; the enemy having erected a battery on Mo7int Defiance, in the rear, elevated 720 feet above the lake, which overlooked and completely commanded this fortification, which was before considered almost impregnable ; it then re- mained in the hands of the British until the close of the war Since that time it has been suffered to go to decay, and now presents one of the most interesting ruins of the kind in this country, and is annually visited by a great number of traveler.": Near by, delightfully situated on the lake shore, is a well-kepi hotel for the accommodation of visitors. Here steamboats, dur- WHITEHALL TO ROUSe's POINT. 209 ing the season of navigation, daily land and receive passengers on their route from Whitehall to Rouse's Point. The following account of the defeat of the British at TicoNDEROGA, iiv 1759, Is taken from the ^^Memoirs of an American LadyT written by Mrs. Grant : " The array, under the command of Gen. Abercromhie, crossed Lake George on the 5th of July, and landed without opposition. They proceeded in four columns to Ticonderoga, and displayed a spectacle unprecedented in the New World. An army of six- teen thousand men, regulars and provincial-, with a train of artillery, and all the necessary provisions for an active cam- paign or regular siege, followed by a fleet of batte.uix, pontons, etc. They set out wrong, however, by not having Indian guides, who are alone to be depended on in such a place. In a short time the columns fell in upon each other, and occasioned much confusion. The advance guard of the French, which had re- tired before them, were equally bewildei'ed, and falling in with each other in this confusion, a skirmish ensued, in which the French lost above three hundred men, and the English, though successful in this first rencontre, lost as much as it was possible to lose, in one man — for here it was that the valiant Lord Howe, the second in command, fell mortally wounded. He was shot from behind a tree, probably by some Indian ; and the whole army were inconsolable for a loss they too well knew to be irreparable. •' The fort is in a situation of peculiar natural strength; it lies on a little peninsula, with Lake Champlain on one side, and a narrow opening communicating with Lake George on the Other. This garrison, which was well prepared for attack, and almost impregnable from situation, was defended by between four and five thousand men. An engineer sent to reconnoiter was of opinion that it might be attacked without waiting for the artillery. The fatal resolution was taken without consulting those who were best qualified to judge. '• I can not enter into the dreadful detail of what followed. Certainly never was infatuation equal to this. The forty-second regiment was then in the height of deserved reputation, and commanded by a veteran of great experience and military skill, Col. Gordon Graham, who had the first point of attack assigned to him. He was wounded at the first onset, and of the sur- vivors, every officer retired wounded off the field. Of the fifty- fifth regiment, ten officers were killed, including all the field officers. No human beings could show more determined cour- age than this brave army did — standing four hours under a constant discharge of cannon and musketry from barricades, on 210 WHITEHALL TO vdiich it was impossible for them to make the least impression. Gen. Abercrorabie saw the fruitless waste of blood that was every hour increasing, and ordered a retreat, which was very precipitate; so much so, that they crossed the lake, and re- gained their camp on the other side, the same night. Tw(5 thousand men were killed, wounded, or taken in this disastrous engagement ; which was, however, quickly succeeded hj the dear-bought conquest of Quebec, where fell both the rival com- manders, Wolfe and Montcalm." Mount Defiance, about one mile southwest of Fort Ticon- deroga, on the south side of the outlet to Lake George, is a bold promontory, elevated about 800 feet above the level of the lake While the ascent from the water or eastern face is quite steep and difficult, the approach from the west is easy. It was from this quarter that Gen. Burgoyne, in 1777, ascended this moun- tain and planted several pieces of artillery — obliging the Amer- icans to evacuate the fort, which was before considered almost impregnable. The top of this eminence gives a grand view of Lake Champlain and the surrounding country, and is well worthy of a visit, which can easily be accomplished on foot. The village of Ticonderoga, two miles west of Lake Cham- plain, is situated on the outlet of Lake George, where is a thriv- ing settlement, surrounded by picturesque mountain scenery. One or two miles farther west, on the road to Lake George, is situated another village, called Upper Ticonderoga, or Alex- andria. Here is a most beautiful fall of water, aflFording im- mense hydraulic power, a small part of which is only used for propelling machinery. The steamboat landing, at the foot of Lake George, is about one mile west of the latter place, the whole distance to Lake Champlain being four miles. The dis- tance to Caldwell, at tlie head of Lake George, is 36 miles. Larabee's Point, Vt., two mile from the landing at Fort Ticonderoga, on the opposite side of the lake, is a regular steam- boat landing. Here the lake expands from one to two miles in width. Chimney Point, nine miles north of Ticonderoga, is also another landing on the east side of the lake, although not now frequented by the steamers. WHITEHALL TO ROUSe's POINT. 211 " Here the French commenced their first settlement upon tlie lake in 1731. When Crown Point fell into the hands of the English, in 1759, this settlement was abandoned, and the re- mains of the chimneys, which they had erected in their huts, probably suggested to the first English settlers the name of Chimney Point. The stone tmndinill, mentioned by Kalm as being one or two musket-shots to the east of Fort Frederick, and as having five or six small cannon mounted in it in 1749, and which has been supposed to have given name to this point, waa most probably at the place opposite, marked by the ruins of what is called Grenaditr^s Battery." Crown- Point, 16 miles north of Ticonderoga, on the west side of Lake Champlain, presents an interesting appearance from the water. The ruins of the old fortifications are situated on a neck of land running into the lake ; the embankments are visible, and indicate an immense amount of labor expended to render this point invulnerable to an approaching foe, w^hether by land or water ; yet it was taken by surprise at the com- mencement of the Revolutionary struggle. " The French first established themselves here in 1731, and erected a foit which they called Fort St. Frederick, from Frederick Maurepus, the French Secretary of State. At this place the French kept a garrison, and from it, during the colonial wars, sent out their parties of French and Indians to destroy the frontier English settlements and massacre the in- habitants. When Kalm visited this place in 1749, there was considerable settlement around the fort, with well-cultivated gardens. Within the fort was a neat little church. The fort was built upon the brow of a steep bank of the lake, but a short distance from the water, and the remains of its bomb-proof covered way, ovens, etc., are still to be seen, though in a very dilapidated state. The small circle to the southeast of this de- notes the site of Grenadier's Uattery, and the two small paral- lelograms to the southwest ot the latter place, the situation of two strong redoubts. " On the approach of the British army under Gen. Amherst, in 1759. the French abandoned this fort and retired to the north end of the lake. Amherst took immediate possession, but instead of repairing the old works, began a new fort, which was called Crown Point, about 200 yards to the southwest, on higher and more commanding ground. This fort was never completed, as is evident from an examination of the ditch, glacis, etc., at the present day, although it has been said that the British government expended here no less than £2,000,000 sterling 212 WHITEHALL TO ROUSe's POINT. *' This fori was taken by surprise by a party of Green Moun- tain Boys, under Seth Warner, on the same day that Ticonde- roga surrendei-ed to Ethan Allen. *• The width of the peninsula upon which these works stood Is one mile, and is in no part much elevated above the site of the principal fort, but there is a considerable mountain on the west side of Bulwagga Bay, the nearest summit of which is only If milas from the fort, and elevated 400 feet above it. The highest is distant 2| miles, and elevated 900 feet. The whole peninsula is made up of dark limestone, covered in most parts Avith only a slight depth of earth, so that works upon it can not be assailed by regular advances. The width between Crown Point and Chimney Point is only about half a mile. From Crown Point to Split Iiock the average width of the lake is about three and a half miles." Port Henry, on the west side of the lake, is situated on Ceda?- Point, at the mouth of Bulwagga Bay, which separates Crown Point from the mainland. Here are the works of the Port Henry Iron Company, with iron ore of good quality in the vicinity. Westport, 50 miles north of Whitehall, is situated on Northwest Bay, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It con- tains 700 or 800 inhabitants, and is a thriving place. A hor.se fervy-boat here plies across the lake, running to Basin Harbor, Vermont Basin Harbor, one of the best on the lake, is in the town ^of Ferrisburgh, Vt., and is five miles west from the city of Vergennes, and is the landing for it. Fort Cassix, three miles north of Basin Harbor, and on the north side of the mouth of Otter Creek, was formerly a landing place of passengers for Vergennes. It is eight miles from the city of Vergennes, where Macdonough's fleet was fitted out, with which he gained his victory. Fort Cassin takes its name from Lieut. Cassin, of the navy, who, with a small breastwork at this place, and less than 200 men, commanded by himself and Capt. Tiiornton, of the artillery, on the 14th of May, 1814, repulsed a large British force in an attempt to enter the creek for the purpose of destroying the American flotilla before it should be ready for service. WHITEHALL TO ROUSE S POINT. 213 Split Rock lias been regarded as one of the greatest natural curiosities on the lake, and is one which did not escape the notice of the earliest French explorers. RocherFendu occupies a conspicuous place on Charlevoix's map of 1744. The part de- tached contains about half an acre, rises about 30 feet above the water, is covered with bushes, and is separated about twelve feat from the main rock. Some have supposed the chasm to have been produced by the breaking off of the promontory in consequence of being undermined by the lake, or by some great convulsion of nature. But the slightest examination shows that the rocky point was here originally crossed by what geologists call a dike, the materials of which have been washed out, form- ing a chasm in the more solid rock, through which the lake flows when high. The chasm, instead of being unfathomable, as some have represented, is so shallow that no water flows through when the lake is low. A few rods south of Split Rock stands a light -house. The width of the lake between Split Rock and Thompson's Point is only about a mile. From this place the width of the lake increases toward the north, and at McJVeirs Ferry, between Charlotte landing and the village of Essex, it wants 20 rods of three miles. The village of Essex, 61 miles from Whitehall, is hand- somely situated on the west side of Lake Champlain, opposite Charlotte Landins^, with which it is connected by a horse ferry-boat. Population about 700. The lake here expands to three or four miles in width, and presents a large expanse of water toward the north. The Green Mountains of Vermont, and the Adirondack Group of Essex County, are here seen stretching north and south in vast mountain peaks and ridgea. The Camefs Hump, being one of the highest peaks of the for- mer, is overlooked by Mount Marcy, on the New York side of the lake, the latter being elevated 5,467 feet, or upward of one mile above the tide waters of the Hudson; and near it this noble river has its most northern source. Four Brothers are four small islands lying about seven miles southwest from Burlington, and being out of the uaual 214 WHITEHALL TO ROUSE S POINT. line of navigation, they are resorted to by gulls and other Water-fowl for the purpose of raising tlieir young. On Charle- voix's map of 1744 they are called Isle (Je Quatre Vents. Juniper Island lies about three miles southwest from Bur- lington — is composed of slate rock, with precipitous banks about thirty feet high, and covered with about a dozen acres of good soil. A light-house was erected here in 1826. llocK DuNPER is a solitary rock rising out of the water, be- tween Juniper Island and Pottier's Point, to the height of about tliirty feet. Burlington, Vt., 80 miles from Whitehall, 25 miles from Plattsburgh, and 50 miles from Rouse's Point by steamboat route, is delightfully situated on Burlington Bay, on the east shore of Lake Champlain, and is the most important place in the State. It possesses a convenient and safe harbor for steam- boats and lake craft. The United States government have here erected a breakwater, which protects the shipping from westerly winds, and is a great addition to tlie security of the harbor. In 1860 it contained a population of 7,713 inhabitants; the University of Vermont, founded in 1791, occupying four spa- cious edifices, and having a medical school attached to it ; the Episcopal institute, a coiirt-house and jail, eight churches of different denominations, an academy, and two female semina- ries; three banking-houses, several well-kept hotels, and a number of stores of different kinds, besides several factories and mills, and almost every kind of mechanic establishments. About 1^ miles distant, on the falls of the Onion River, is a thriving miinufacturing place called Winooski, where are lo- cated several large factories and mills. Burlington is, no doubt, destined rapidly to increase in wealth and population, from the fact of here centering several impor- tant lines of railroad travel, extending from Boston by two routes, through Montpelier and through Rutland. This rail- road and steamboat communication extends across Lake Cham- plain to Plattsburgh and Rouse's Point, running north to Montreal, Canada, and west to Osfdensburgh, N. Y. "Whitehall to rouse's point. 215 Its advantages are now great, and its situation most beauti- ful, overlooking the lake, with its bays, islands, and adjacent scenery — the passing steamboats and other vessels — and pos- sesses a beauty of location probably unsurpassed by any other place in the Union. In trade and commerce it is closely allied with the interests of the State of New York. Steamboats stop here daily on their route from Whitehall to Rouse's Point ; a steamboat also plies from this place to Port Kent, on the op- posite side of the lake, a distance of ten miles, and thence to Plattsburgh, 25 miles. The principal hotels in Burlington are the American Hotel the Lake House, and the Howard House, Travelers wishing to visit Mayisfield Mountain, 20 miles northeast of Burlington, or the CamePs Hump, in the town of Huntington, about the same distance in a southeast direc- tion, can easily obtain conveyances to either of the above ro- mantic resorts. From the summit of both are obtained beau- tiful and sublime views of the surrounding country and Lake Champlain, said to fully equal the prospect from the White Mountains of^ New Hampshire. The Vermont Central Railroad route, between Burlington, Montpelier, and Windsor, runs near the base of the latter mountain. The White Mountains of New Hampshire, about 120 miles east of Burlington, are reached from this place by railroad and stage, passing over the Vermont Central Railroad to White River Junction, and from thence up the valley of the Connecti- cut River to Wells' River, where commences the White Mount- ain Railroad, extending to Littleton, N. H. From Littleton stages run to the Notch of the White Mountains, a farther distance of 20 miles. This line of travel can be extended tlirough to Portland, Me. , passing over a romantic section of country. 216 WHITEHALL TO ROUSE'S POINT. Mount Mansfield is known as the first in dignity, beauty, and grandeur of ail tlie Green Hills of Vermont. It consists of three prominent peaks lying in a line nearly north and south, whicli, viewed from tiie vallf)'- near Stovve, iias a re- Bemblance to the })r()file of the human face turned upward. From tliis fact the three summits have re-ceived the names of " Chin," " Nose," and " Forehead" The Chin is about 4.500 feet higli ; the Nose or middle summit about 4,2tJ0 feet, and the Forehead or south peak about 160 feet lower than the Nose. No written description can adequately describe the ex- tent, variety, and beauty of scenery visihle from the Chiu ; but it is sufficient to say that a more extensive, delightful, and charming view is not to be found on the Coiitiuent. Standing on the summit in a clear day, and looking westward, the most prominent of all the objects that fill the eye of the beholder, is Lake ChampLiin. It seems but a short way off, but in re^ ality is eighteen or twenty miles to tlie nearest point ; while? far to the north and south, 40 or 60 miles distant, its smooth surface, lii^e high polished mtisses of silver, reiiect the rays of the evening sun, and give light and beauty to the scene. Occupying the intervening space between the Lake and the base of the mountain, spread out like a map under the feet of the observer, are forests, cultivated fields, villages, and streams of water, comprising the ricliest agricultural region of Ver- mont. Beyond Lake Champlain, stretching to thj3 north and south as far as the eye can s.;c, rise the majestic and pictur- esque Adirondack Mountains, wliich furnish an appropriate backgroiuid to the picture and terminate the view in that di- rection. Turning to the east, a vast extent of country stretches away to the Connecticut River, mapped out with bright fields of grain, pleasant openings, dark forests, strea,ms, roads, houses and church spires, with hills and valleys interspersed ; and far be- yond, 60 or 70 miles distant, the eye rests upon Mount Wash- ington, which lilts its blue j)eak on the extreme verge ol' tho horizon, and forms a marked feature of the eastern landscape. THE GEEEN MOUNTAINS. "Ilail, land of Green Mountains ! whose valleys and streams Ar-)ebi^^ Grosse Isle, Cape Tourment lifts it^loud-cappsd summit 1,800 feet into the air The boat stopped at Murray Bay to land passengers and freight. This place seems to be the Capj May of Canada, where the citizens of Quebec and Montreal resort m great numbers, for salt-water bathing. The long p er that stretches into the river was crowded with ladies expectmg friends and relatives by the boat. During the summer, the ladies of Canada, of every class, when at watering- places, wear straw hats, with rims of enormous breadth, which aflord a marked contrast to the minute fixtures which American ladi^ affect. The scane was highly picturesque, and called* torth much complimentary notice from traveling Americans who were aboard. We arrived at Riviere du Loup, another water- ing-place, about dusk, and anchored in the stream to await daylight At three o'clock we again started for the mouth ot the Sacruenay, which is directly across the St. Lawrence from Iliviere du Loup. The bt. Lawrence is twenty-one nules wide at this point. About five o'clock we reached Tadonsac. which is situated on the point of land formed by the confluence of the Saguenay and St. LaAvrence At this place the trench farst settled in Canada, ^ind a little red-spired church was pointed out to us as being the first church erected nonh oi the bt. Lawrence, and the oldest ecclesiastical edifice in America " Leavlno- the St. Lawrence at this point, we plunged between high ridges into the Saguenay, and continued for five hours to float over its mirror-like expanse. It is a singular fact that the depth of the Saguenay is about seven hundred feet greater than that of the St. Lawrence, into which it empties, and in certain payts a fathom line of one thousand feet fails to touch bottom. The perpendicular mountains that hem it m, rise directly out of the water, without an intervening shore, and the steamboat can glicTc rapidly along witliin a yard oi the solid land. Cape Eternity, about thirty-five miles above Tadousac, is one of the most striking objects upon the route It is a huge mass of "-ranice, without flaw or fissure, rising eighteen hundred feet in the air. Hardy birches and pines cbng tenaciously to its barren sides, giving the only indication of hfe m tlie^vicinity. The boat arrived at this point while we were at breakiisG, ana the p lot ran into a little cove beside it, so as to give the pas- Bengers a view of it from every side, then roundmg d.rectly beneath the overhanging mass, we shot out into the sa-eam to gaze at its heavy summit from the distance. There was a feel- ino- of indescribable awe in watching the recedmg boulder, as we sped up the stream, and many an admiring gaze was flung backward, even after a sudden bend m the river h^ul hid it from our view. Tete du R)ule, the Two Profiles, the Tableau, '2^H MURRAY BAY, TADOUSAC, HA-HA BAlf, ETC Cape Trinity, and Statue^oint, are each attractive objects that excite the admiration of the tourist. " Near eleven o'clock in the forenoon we arrived before the little town which lies at the head of Ha-Ha Bay, about 60 miles from the St. Lawrence, and having dropped our anchor, the passengers were sent ashore by the ship's boats. The town is merely an establishment for lumbering purposes, and is owned by William Price, Esq., of Quebec, who is the most ex- tensive lumber merchant in Canada. All the saw-mills upon the Saguenay belong to this gentleman. He keeps constantly employed at his various mills about 3,000 persons, and freights over 100 vessels annually with lumber. As only a few minutes were allowed us, before starting on our return to the St. Law- rence, we preferred remaining upon the steamer's deck and inspecting the town and adjacent country with the aid of a lorgnette. About Ha-Ha Bay the cliifs almost disappear and some indications of agricultural attempts are manifest, but a sterile soil and a bleak atmosphere always militate with til- lage and farming in this region The Governor-General of Canada, Sir Edmund Head, was expected to visit the Saguenay on this trip, and as we ran up before the town a salute of guns was fired, and the English colors run up the flag?rpff on shore In return for the compliment, Capt. Simard decoi'ated his steamer Avith flags of almost every nation, and we left Ha-Ha Bay about noon, in a gala attire of floating bunting. At five o'clock in the afternoon we touched at Tadousac, and in two hours after anchored at the pier of lliviere du Loup, to wait for the morning. Early on Friday, July 27, we started for Quebec, and made the 114 miles before four o'clock in tho afternoon. " The greater part of American tourists make a great mis take in omitting the Saguenay River. They miss the finest Bcenery on this continent, which 1 hey can view by an addi- tional expense of $12 only. The fare on board the boat is of excellent quality, and the berths large and comfortable. It is worth a visit to the Saguenay to taste the salmon, that but an hour before was gliding in its native element. As a matter of information to those wishing to make the trip in future seasons, we may say that a thick over- coat is an absolute necessity From eleven o'clock in the morning until four in the afternoon the temperature is agreeable, but not too warm; during the other hours of the day and night it will compare exactly with our November. Coming from warmer climates, the tourist can not be too careful to prepare for sudden changes of tempera ture. We can not close our impei'fect sketch of the Saguenay without a word of thanks to Capt. Simard, who commands the Bteamer Saguenay. To our numerous questions he politely r©' ANTICOSTI. 269 turned us full and satisfactory answers, and we are greatly indebted to him for much valuable information Wo cordially commend him and his boat to the attentions of all American travelers who may hereafter visit Quebec. From all classes of Canadians, both French and English, we met with the politesS treatment, and can vouch for their hospitality and good-will. In conversation with numerous intelligent p3rsons from Quebec and Montreal, we discover that the American character is greatly admired in Canada, and an earnest hope is indulged that the amicable commercial relations now in pi^ocsss of for- mation between the two countries Avill tend to introduce some of our finer national characteristics into Canadian affairs. While they are eminently loyal to their sovereign, they yet re- joice in the active energy of the Yankee race, and esteem it a privilege to live in such close juxtaposition to a nationality whose rapid rise and hardy vigor reflect honor on the Anglo- Saxon blood. The kindly feeling beyond doubt is reciprocated in the United States, and that, too, from a nobler motive than commercial and mercantile gain— from the fraternal feeling inseparable from nations descended from a comracn stock. Whether or not the time will ever come when Colonial Canada will be a sovereign State, and part of our rapidly expanding confederacy, remains to be seen. If the course of events should take such a turn, we will acquire a territory rich in mineral and agricultural resources, and one geographically adapted for unexampled greatness ; if not, we are sure of a faithful ally and a firm unwavering friend." J. M. G. ANTICOSTI. Anticosti, about 400 miles below Quebec, is a large and im- portant island in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, lying W.S.W. and E.S.E., in the widest part of its estuary, between the meridians of 61° 45' and 64° 15' W., and dividing the entrance of the river into two channels, from twenty to forty miles in width. It is about 125 miles in length ; its extreme breadth is 30 miles ; its super- ficial area 1,530.000 acres. Its surface is in general low, and covered with forests of stunted fir, white cedar, and poplar, or alluvial flats clothed with cranberry and blueberry bushes ; but the timber is of inferior quality, and the soil is mostly poor. Bears, foxes, hares, martins, sea-otters, partridges, curlews, plover, and snipe are numerous. The geological formation is a ehell limestone mi.-sed with clay, and in some places wholly com 270 ANTICOSTI. posed of encrinites. The northern coast is bold and high, pre- senting magnificent limestone cliflfs, which sometimes rise to the height of 500 feet. The severity of the climate is so great that any grain is usually nipped in the hud. In the month of June, ice of considerable thickness is frequently formed during the night ; and summer is always far advanced before the snow dis- appears. Winter commences in the early part of November, and continues till the middle of March ; the thermometer rang- ing during this season from 20° above to 20° below zero. The shores are then surrounded with ice, and all communication with them is cut off. Its shores present a few small creeks, but throughout an extent of 300 miles there is neither bay nor har- bor sufficient to protect ships ; while the powerful stream setting constantly from the St. Lawrence, the shoals which surround this island, and the heavy snow-storms which here occur in the fall of the year, with its position across the mouth of the river, render it the frequent scene of shipwi-ecks, and the sailing past it •' the worst part of the voyage to or from Canada." (Bonuy- castle. ) ' ' The bearings of its extreme points are as follows : west point, N. lat. 49° 52 29", W. long. 64° 36' 54"; variation 22*^ 55' W. East point, N. lat. 49° 8' ^0", W. long. 61° 44' 56"; variation 24° 38' W. North point, N. lat. 49° 57' 38", W. long. 65° 14' 1". Southwest point, N. lat. 49° 23', W. long. 63° 43' An elevated and magnificent light-house, with a revolving light, now occupies this point of the island; and another has beeu erected on the E. coast. Spring tides rise ten feet ; neaps, seven feet. This island formerly belonged to Labrador, but was an- nexed to Lower Canada in 1825, and now forms part of the county of Saguenay. Its name is probably a corruption of the Indian name JVaticostee. It is fiist noticed in 1535, by Cartier, who gave it the name of Assumption." (Bouchette.) Gulf of St. Law^renck. — On passing along the south side of the island of Anticosti, entering the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the vshores of Gaspe are seen in the distance. This is an im- portant district and headland, jutting out into the Gulf, and running round into the Bay of Chaleurs, comprehending 350 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 271 miles of coast ; the whole extent is said to abound with fish of different kinds, and during the fishing season a large number of vessels and men are engaged in taking and curing fish for exportation. Below where the Saguenay joins the St. Lawrence, the dis- tance from shore to shore across the latter stream exceeds twenty miles, and the width goes on increasing till it expands to forty miles, from Cape Chatte to Cape des Monts Pelles, some three hundred miles below Quebec. From thence it goes on still further expanding, till it reaches the breadth of about 120 miles from shore to shore, in a line drawn from the extreme point of Gaspe due north across the western edge of the island of Anti- costi, and so on to the coast of Labrador. The grand trip from the Upper Lakes to the Gulf of St. Law- rence is thus spoken of by a late writer, on terminating the voyage: "Through this magnificent mouth of the river we passed into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, having thus traced the noble stream, from the island of Mackinac, in the strait of Michilimackinac, at the head of Lake Huron, down to the island of Anticosti, a distance of at least 2,000 miles, through a chain of the most splendid lakes in the world, and with almost every variety of scenery along its majestic course." PROPOSED CANAL FPwOM THE HEAD OF NAVIGATION ON THE SAGUENAY PvIVER TO LAKE ST. JOHN. A MEETING was recently held at Ha-Ha Bay, on the Sague- nay, for the purpose of agitating for the construction of a Fhip canal between that interesting village aud the Lake St. John. The country in the vicinity of the lake is covered with valuable timber, and is eminently adapted for settlement, while the streams abound in salmon, trout, and other kinds of fish of a delicious flavor. 272 RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES. RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES, From New York to Niagara Falls, Toronto, Montreal, Que- bec, and the White Mountains of New Hampshire, forming a round trip by returning via Portland and Boston to New York ; or via Lake Chaniplain. ^ Routes and Distances. New York to Albany, steamboat route 150 miles. Albany to Niagara Falls, railroad route 306 *' Niagara Falls to Toronto, Canada, steamboat route. . . 50 " Toronto to Montreal, railroad or steamer 333 ** Montreal to Quebec, " " 170 '* Quebec or Montreal to White M'ts, railroad route . . 202 " White Mountains to Portland, Me., " " .. 91 *• Portland to Boston, " '* ..108 " Boston to New York, railroad and steamer 230 ** Total Distance 1,640 miles. Returning via Lake Champlain. New York to Montreal, via Niagara Falls 839 miles. Montreal to Saratoga Springs 213 " Saratoga Springs to New York 182 *' Total Distance 1,234 miles. New York to Montreal, via SyTwACUse and Oswego. New York to Syracuse, railroad rmite 298 miles. Syracuse to Oswego, " " 35 *' Oswego to Cape Vincent, or the " Thousand Isl- ands,'' steamboat route 60 " Tliousand Islands to Ogdensburgh 65 ** Ogdensburgh to Montreal 120 " Total Distance, New York to Montreal 578 miles. Returning via Lake George and Saratoga Springs . 400 ** Total Distance, round Trip 978 miles. GUm PLEASURE EXCURSION FEOM IfEW YORK TO NIAGARA TALIS, TORONTO, MONTREAL, ETC. Pleasure travelers leaving Nevr York at 7 o'clock a.m., or 6 o'clock P.M., by steamboats running on the Hudson River, can leave Albany almost immediately after their arrival, and proceed direct to Schenectady, 17 miles ; Utica, 95 miles ; Rome, 109 miles ; or Syracuse, 148 miles from Albany, via New York Central Railroad. At Schenectady the Saratoga and Schenectady Railroad oommences and extends north to Saratoga Springs, 22 miles. At Utica the Black River and Utica Railroad commences and extends north, 16 miles, to Trenton Falls, and thence to Boonville, a total distance of 35 miles. The above railroad, ■when finished, will run to Clayton, situated on the St. Law- rence River, 109 miles from Utica. At Rome commences the Watertown and Rome Railroad, extending northward to Cape Vincent, 97 miles, forming a direct line of travel to Kingston and other places in Canada. At Syracuse the New York Central Railroad is intersected by the Syracuse and Binghamton Railroad and Oswego and Syracuse Railroad; the latter railroad running north to the city of Oswego, 35 miles. Fare from Albany to Syracuse, $3. Usual time, 6 hours. Fare from Syracuse to Oswego, $1. Usual time, one hour and thirty minutes. Travelers can proceed by railroad to Rochester, 81 miles from Syracuse, and there take a steamer for Toronto or Lewiston, or proceed direct through Lockport to the Suspension Bridge or JViagara Falls. From Niagara Falls, passengers desiring to go to Montreal or Quebec are conveyed by steamer from Lewis- ton or Niagara, Can,, through Lake Ontario to Kingston or Cajje ^ivcejit, and thence down the St. Lawrence River 15* 2*74 PLEASURE EXCURSIONS. Another new and favorite mode of traveling for those who wish to avoid the lake travel is to proceed to Toronto, and take the cars of the Grand Tnmk Railway for Kingston. There take an American or British steamer for \MontreaL Steamers of a large class run daily from Oswego morning and afternoon. The morning boats leave Oswego for Sacket's Harbor, Kingston, Ogdensburgh, etc. ; while the afternoon boats run direct to Charlotte, at the mouth of the Genesee Kiver, and from thence direct for Toronto, Lewiston, etc., affording trav- elers a choice of routes if going wrst to Detroit, Chicago, etc., or if proceeding noi'th to Kingston, Montreal, etc. Pleasure travelers aro also conveyed direct to Niagara Falls, Buffalo, etc. Sacket's Harbor, 45 miles from Oswego, is the first place at which the passenger boats stop to land and receive passen- gers ; usual time, 3 hours. KiNGSTOif, 40 miles farther, is usually reached in about the Bame time, where passengers can stop, or proceed direct down the St. Lawrence Kiver, passing the " Thousand Islands" and magnilicent rapids by daylight. The American steamers, on leaving Kingston, run through the Kingston Channel to Clayton or French Creek, iind thence to Ogdensburgh. The British steamers run on the north or Canadian Channel, stopping at Gananoque, Brockville, Pres- cott, etc. , on the downward and upward trips. Kingston being the best point for pleasure travelers to start from in order to see the " Thousand Islands" to advantage, we eubjoin the following description of the trip to Prcscott and Ogdensburgh, performed in June, 1857. The Aii^er'can steam- ers leave Kingston at about 3 o'clock p.m., descending the St. Lawrence, stopping at Ogdensburgh, 02 miles ; while ihe Brit- ish mail line of steamers leave at 6 o'clock a.m., running through to Montreal, 180 miles, by daylight. On leaving Kingston the steamer runs between Howe and Giaud Islands, both belonging to Canada, for a distance of PLIilASURE EXCURSICNS. 2V5 about 15 miles. When at the foot of the former island, the steamer veers westward, passing through a beautiful group of small islands, and approaches G an and que, 20 miles from Kingston. Several light-houses or beacons have recently been erected by the Canadian authorities to mark this intricate channel. Other beautiful groups of islands are passed below Gana- noque, when the Fiddler's Elbow is approached, 12 miles dis-. tant. Here is a light-house and another group of small islands. Alexandria Bay, 34 miles below Kingston, is passed in sight on the right, the British steamer passing through the middle channel of the river. This favorite summer resort la reached by the American line of steamers. The Sisters and Scotch Bonnet are a pretty group of islands situated in the middle channel, some 8 or 10 miles above Brocli- ville. Here the stream of the river begins to narrow, and soon the labyrinth of islands are passed by the descending steamer. The pleasure is greatly enhanced by an observing traveler to vary his routes, when an opportlLity offers, in voyaging through the Lakes and down the St. Lawrence River, thus not only affording an opportunity to see the different points of interest on the route, but also see a. different class of passengers-the Southern planter, the Northern financier, and the English or French Canadian resident, each possessing distinctive charac- ters ; while the intelligent ladies are always alike attractive. BR0CKV1..LE, 52 miles below Kingston, is a fine Canadian town, situated immediately below the commencement of the Thousand Islands. The Brockville and Ottawa Railroad, now in progress of construction, will afford a direct and speedy route to the Upper Ottawa country. Pkescott and OaDSNSBURGH, 12 miles below Brockville, are Important towns situated opposite each other, beipg closely con- nected by two steam ferries. Here navigation for sail vessels may be said to termina-.e, while steamers descend the rapids •«ftth the utmost safety. For a further description of the Rapids of the St. Lawrence, seepages 169 and 174. 276 PLEASURE EXCURSIONS. TRIP FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. . : On an-iving at Montreal, one of the most important and in- 1 1 teresting towns in Canada, the traveler has a choice of hotels, * where every desired comfort can be obtained. The drive ronnd the city and the mountain is one of great interest, and should be enjoyed by every intelligent traveler. The objects of interest are numerous and picturesque. On leaving Montreal by steamer, or via the Grand Trunk Railivay, the journey is one of varied interest ; by the latter roikte passing over the Victoria Bridge, one of the grandest structures of its kind in America. If by steamer, after leav- ing the wharf, St Helm's Island, a military depot, is soon pass- ed, being in part covered with a rich growth of forest-trees, while the fort and buildings on^the north end are seen to ad- vantage. A number of low islands are next passed on descending the stream, when the beautiful village of Varennes is soon reached and passed, situated on the right bank of the stream. Here ia a mineral spring of some celebrity and a good public house. The north point of the island of Montreal and northern branch of the Ottawa River are passed about 16 miles below Montreal, where are to be seen several picturesque islands, concealing in part the mouth of the Ottawa. Here the St. Lawrence assumes its most majestic appearance for a stretch of several miles, the stream being from two to four miles in width— flowing onward in majestic grandeur witli here and there a square-rigged sail vessel and immense tim])er rafts, such as are alone seen on the lower St. Lawrence being on their way to Quebec from the Ottawa River. Before reaching Sorel, or William Henry, the stream contractf to about one mile in width, with more elevated banks. The river Richelieu, the outlet of Lake Champlain, enters the St PLEASURE EXCURSIONS. ^'^ Lawrence at Sorel, or IVUliam Henry, 45 miles beloT. Mon- treal, this being the first regular landing for the Royal Mail Line. Here is situated an old and handsome town, enlivened by Engl sh and French residents and the busy Yankee, who is slowly making his way into the lower Province of Canada. After leaving Sorel a number of islands are again passed, and the steamer soon enters the broad waters of Lake St. Ptttr, an expansion of the St. Lawrence. ♦ Here again the square-rig- ged vessels, the timber rafts, and the more fleet steamer may often be seen threading their way up or down the river. Three Rivers, 90 miles below Montreal and 80 miles above Quebec, is an old and important town, being advantageously situated at the mouth of the river St. INIaurice, on the left bank of the river. This is considered the head of tide-waters on the St. Law- rence, although the Richelieu Rapids are below, wheye is a strong current when the tide is receding, the river flowing over a rocky and dangerous channel for several miles— the stream alternately running to the right and the left, with banks some- what elevated. Point aux Trembles, on the left bank, is a bold headland, which, when passed, the stream again widens for a number of miles— the shores for the entire distance of 170 miles being dotted with picturesque residences of the French habitans and churches of the Roman Catholic persucifeion. Cape Rouge, 10 miles above Quebec, is another interesting point, situated on the left bank of the river. Next comes in sight Point Levi and the frowning fortress of Quebec— then opens the Lower Town, with its numerous shipping, its steam- tugs, and ferry-boats— altogether affordiug, during the summer months, one of the most grand and enUvening scenes to be vdt- nessed on the continent of America. Without entering into a description of Quebec, which is fully described in its proper pla,ce, we will allude to the hotels now open for the accommodation of tourists. Russell's Hotel in Palace Street, Upper Town, is an old, popular house ; while the St. Louis Hotel, kept by W. RusseU, Lewis Street, near the 278 PLEASURE EXCURSIONS. Durham Torraco, is a new and popular resort for pldsure seek- ers visiting Quebec. There ara several other good hotels in both the Upper and Lower Town, while Norman's Victoria Hotel at Point Levi, op- posite Quebec, is also a favorite resort for both English and American visitors. It is situated near the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, from whence steamers are almost con- stantly crossing to Quebec, affording an opportunity to see the fortress and city, togsther with the adjacent country, from Cape Rouge to the island of Orleans. The trip from Quebec to the Lower St. Lawrence and Sague- nay Rivers is fully described in another part of this work. See page 253. RETUEN TO MONTEEAL. 0-v leaving Quebec for Montreal, via Grand Trunk Railway, passengers can proceed at 6 a.m. or 4 p.m., crossing the St. Lawrence by steamer to Point Levi, one or two miles distant. Near the depot is situated the Victoria Hotel, a well-kept pub- lic house, surrounded by handsome grounds. This is a most speedy route, the cars going through from city to city in six hours ; 170 miles. The first station is the Chaudiere Junction,'^ miles from Point Levi; here the Chaudiere River is passed a few rods above the romantic falls on this stream, the spray arising from the waters alone being visible from the cars. For the next 40 or 50 miles the'country is level and uninviting, with only a few residences in sight, being for the most part clothed with a stunted forest. Stanfolc, 55 miles from Point Levi, is a small settlement surrounded by good farming land, which continues until War- wick, DanvUlc, and Richmond are reached and passed. At the latter station the passenger trains usually connect with trains from Portland and Montreal, making this an important point on this gre.it railway of Canada. Passengers bound for the While Mountains or Portland Me there change cars. PLEASURE EXCURSIONS. 279 After leaving Richmond for Montreal, the lino of the roai descends toward the St. Lawrence, passing throujj;h several thriving villages. St. Hyacinthe, 30 miles from Montreal, is handsomoly sit- uated on the Yamaska River, about 40 miles above its entrance Into the Lake St. Peter. St. Hilaire, 17 miles from Longueuil, is another delightful village, situated near Beloeil Mountain, a bold eminence rising from the plain to near one thousand feet in height, being plainly seen from Montreal. A most beautiful lake lies n3ar its sum- mit ; the outlet flows westward into the Sorel River. Other hills or mountains are seen in this vicinity besides the one above mentioned. Mount Rouge and Mount Johnson rise on the south, while BouchervUle Mountain, also adorned by a most beautiful lake, lies a few miles northwest of St. Hilaire, forming altogether a most interesting and picturesque group of hills or mountains, being visible from the St. Lawrence River for many miles, which, in connection with Mount Royaly on the island of Montreal, are most grand and attractive objects to the observant traveler. The Sorel or Richelieu River, the outlet of Lake Champlain, is next passed, and the traveler soon arrives at Longueuil^ •where a commodious steam ferry-boat plies regularly to and from Montreal, landing near the center of the city, where caba and carriages are always to be found in readiness running to the different hotels. The Grand Trunk Railway also afibrds the most speedy and direct route to the White Mountains of New Hampshire, as well as to the Ottawa River and Upper St. Lawrence and Lake country. Montreal to Island Pond, Vt 143 miles. Montreal to White Mountains, N. H 201 " Montreal to Portland, Me 292 '« Montreal to Prescott, C. W 113 miles. i\Iontreal to Ottawa City, via Prescott lo7 " Mou^ii-eal to Toronto, C. ^V 333 *• 280 PLEASURE EXCURSIONS. MONTEEAL TO BOSTON AND NEW YORK. Passengers can leave Montreal for Boston or New Yprk, and proceed, via Champlain and St. Lawrence Railroad, to Rouse's Point, N. Y., a distance of 45 miles, where tliey have the choice of proceeding by steamer to Plattsburgh, Burling- ton, etc., or take the cars of the Vermont and Canada Rail- road, and proceed direct through by rail to Boston or New York, or any intermediate station. Trains of cars also run twice daily from Montreal, via Mon- treal and Lachine and Montreal and JVew York Railroads, direct to Plattsburgh, N. Y., a distance of 62 miles, here con- necting with steamers running to Burlington, Ticonderoga, and Whitehall. On arriving at Burlington by any of the above routes, pas- sengers have the choice of proceeding by steamer, or take the cars of the Vermont Central Railroad, if bound for the White Mountains or Boston ; while the Rutland and Burlington Rail- road runs both toward Boston and New York, forming a link in the great line of railroads running from the Eastern and North- ern States into Canada. On leaving Burlington by steamer^ proceeding toward White- hall, a most magnificent view is obtained, in a clear day, of the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Adiro^idach Group of New York, lying in the counties of Essex and Clinton. The latter are the most elevated peaks, rising to the height of 5,407 feet above the ocean; while the Mansfield Mountain peak of Vermont rises to the height of 4,279 feet, there being lesser peaks on both sides of the lake in full view. The surface of Lake Champlain is elevated 90 feet above tide-waters of tlie ocean, while Lake George is elevated 243 feet — there being a fall of 153 in the outlet of the latter lake within the distance of 4 miles. Lake Champlain and the landings on its shore are fully de- scribed in a preceding part of this work. See page 201. RAILROAD ROUTES. 281, ROUTES OF TRAVEL FROM MONTREAL TO BOSTON Railkoad Route via Vermont Central and Noriuern (N. H.) Railroads. Montreal to Rouse's Point, N. Y 44 miles. Rouse's Point to Montpelier, Vt. . . ^- ^^ Montpelier to White River Junction- t>- ^^ White River Junction to Concord, N. H oJ ^^ Concord to Boston '^ Total Distance 330 miles. MONTREAL TO BOSTON, via BURLINGTON, RUTLAND, AND BELLOWS FALLS. Montreal to Rouse's Point, N. Y 44 miles. Rouse's Point to Burlington, Vt ^^2 ,, Burlington to Rutland, Vt ^' ^^ Rutland to Bellows Falls -^ • • • • ^^ (Passing over the Green Mountains.) ^^ Bellows Falls to Fitchburg, Mass 64 ^^ FiTCHBURG to Boston ^ Total Distance 333 miles. ROUTES OF TRAVEL FROM MONTREAL TO NEW YORK, via THE VERMONT CENTRAL AND CONNECTICUT VALLEY RAILROADS. Montreal to Rouse's Point, N. Y 44 miles. Rouse's Point to White River Junction 144 (Passing over the Green Mountains.) ^^ White River Junction to Bellows Falls ....... 40 (Passing down the Connecticut Valley.) ^^ Bellows Falls to Springfield, Mass 95 ^^ Springfield to New Hiven, Conn o^ ^^ New Haven to New York '^ Total Distance 4(51 miles. * Connects with Railroad Route to the White Mountains, and Eoadft runniug South to SpriugQeld, and New Haven. 282 RAILROAD ROUTES. EAILEOAD ROUTE, via ROUSE'S POINT, BURLINGTON, RUT- LAND, AND TROY, TO NEW YORK. Montreal to Rouse's Point, N. Y 44 miles. Kouse's Point to Burlington, Vt 56 " Burlington to Rutland, Vt.* 67 " Rutland to Troy, N. Y 84 " Troy to Albany, {Railroad or 6 " Albany to New York, Steamboat Route) 144 " Total Distance 401 miles. EOUTE FROM MONTREAL AND QUEBEC TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS AND PORTLAND, ME., via THE GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. Passengers cars leave Montreal and Quebec, twice daily, for Portland, connecting at Richmond, C. E., 73 miles from Montreal ; from thence proceed southeasterly through Sber- brooke, an important town of Canada, to Island Pond, Vt. Here is a large public-house for the accommodation of travel- ers, where every desired luxury and comfort can be found. The road continues through Vermont and New Hampshire, until the White Mountains are reached and passed ; the cars stopping at Gorham to land and receive passengers. Here is a well-kept hotel, called the Alpine Bouse Stages leave Gorham on thn arrival of the cars for the Glen House, passing up the valley of Peabody River, a mountain stream, which affords many picturesque and romantic views. The Grand Trunk Railway passes through the Copper and Gold Region of Canada East, affording tourists a fine oppor- tunity to explore the surrounding country, being alike cele- brated for a iiealthy climate and rich mineral productions. Acton, C. E., 50 miles from Montreal, is one of the most noted mineral localities where copper is found, while deposits of gold extend over a large re:',ion of country along the line of the Grand Trunk Riilvvay. The Chaudiere River and its trib- utaries are the most noted localities for gold, while the St. Francis River, Magog River, and Massawippi River, and streams flowing into the above rivers, are supposed to contain rich deposits of the precious metal. Passengers leaving Portland, Me., are afforded an equally favorable opportunity to visit tlie White Mountain region. * Raih'oad Route to Boslon, via Bellows Falls. WHITE MOUNTAINS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 283 WHITE MOIJNTAIXS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. "Nothing in tbe United States so nearly approaches the wild scenery of Switzerland as the Alpine region of New Hampshire. More loveliness may be found among the beauti- ful valleys and villages of New England— the traveler may better realize his visions of the picturesque in the varied scenery of the Hudson— may be filled with greater astonish- ment as he stands, deafened, at the side of Niagara— may find more to excite his wonder in the Great Lakes, or mighty St, Lawrence, and awe-inspiring Saguenay— more to gratify his love of the beautiful and quiet combined, around the shores and on the silver waters of Lake George ; but if he would see nature in ' her dwelling-place of magnificence and power'— if he would behold ' the beautiful, the grand, and the sublime in commingled harmony,' let him turn his steps toward this ' MOUNTAIN METROPOLIS,' and thread his way among its winding gorges, or stand alone upon its solitary turrets. " No distance here lends enchantment to the view. It is not the height merely that impresses and overpowers the be- holder ; it is the wonderful structure and conformation of these rocky masses, so forcibly reminding the traveler of the more gigantic Alps. It is the wild and stupendous congregation of mountains— everywhere, ' pile upon pile, peak basing peak,' rise the everlasting hills ; while Mount Washington, like an enormous pyramid, overtops the whole — fitting throne of the Indian's God. " Art here has acknowledged its inferiority, and reverently stood aloof. The ever busy hand of man has here felt its utter weakness, and shrunk from contact with the handiwork of God. " All here is nature, God alone could blend Wood, wind, and wave in melody so sweet; He, he alone, the rocky ciiffs could bend, And pour so bright a river at their leet." ♦'Leave, then, ye seekers after pleasure and comfort, the dusty thoroughfares of the city ; flee from the hot and crowded 284 WHITE MOUNTAINS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. Springs, where pride and envy and disease congregate ; away from the busy, jostled haunts of man ; away to this mountain- land, and strengthen your enfeebled frames with exhilarating draughts of pure mountain air, and refresh your care-worn souls with Nature, untarnished from the hands of God. " Go forth into the fields, Ye dwellers in the city's crowded mart, Go forth, and know ihe influence namre yields To sooihe the wearied hearu "Leave ye the feverish strife, The jostling, eage-, seif-devoted throng; Ten ihousaud voices, waked anew to lile, Call you with sweetest song," • " A visit to the White Mountains, which once occupied so large a space of time, as to make it impossible to many, and, at best, a hurried one to all, is now made available to every one, by the facilities and the cheapness of the many convey- ances at the option of the traveler. ' ' ASCENT TO MOUNT WASHINGTON Starting from the Alpine House, situated on the line of the Grand Trunk Railway, a ride of eight miles by stage or private conveyance takes passengers to the Glen House, sit- uated at the base of Mount Washington. The Cairiage Road, finished in 1861, now forms the safest and most speedy mode of conveyance to the top of the mountain, the distance being eight miles in a circuitous route from the Glen House. Tlie ascent can be made on foot, on horseback, or in a light cov- ered wagon ; whichever way may be preferred, parties can start from either hotel, the charges being the same. This carriage road, a triumph of engineering skill, furnishes tlie best road in the whole mountain region ; the aver;ige grade being twelve feet in one hundred, and the steepest grade in any part is sixteen feet in one hundred for a short distance. • For the first three or four miles of the way, the road winds among the trees of the forest, which cover the sides of all tlio mountains, permitting only occasional glimpses of the moun- WHITK MOUNTAINR OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 285 tain scenery around. At "the Ledge," the road emerges from the forest, and the grandeur of the ascent here begins. On leaving the Ledge, the road winds along the very verge of the deep ravine between Mounts Washington, Clay, and Jeffer- cion, the upper end of which is called the Great Gulf. Here are experienced sensations peculiar to high altitudes ; the wind sweeps almost unobstructed across the mountain peaks, A most grand and surprising view is here afforded of Mounts Adams, Jefferson, and Madison ; they rise up almost perpen- dicularly from the enormous gulfs at the right hand of the road, and are visible from base to crown. During the last part of the ascent, the view of the world below enlarges ; and, when arrived at the summit, a stupen- dous view is presented to the gaze of the beholder. "A wide- spread horizon of nearly six hundred miles bounds the pros- pect ! The lesser mountain peaks stand on every side as sen- tinels over the prisoned valleys of New-England!" Here stands the '■'■ Ti'p-Top House,'' and the '^Summit House," both being united under one management, where guests can be comfortably supplied with refreshments and lodging. The time in making the ascent from the Glen to the peak of Mount Washington is about three hours. A carriage road has also been constructed, running from near the Crawford House, in the Notch, to the base of Mount Washington on its west face, thus reducing the distance which it is necessary to accomplish on foot or horseback from nine miles to about three miles. The distance from the Crawford House to the Glen House, passing over the summit of Mount Washington, is seventeen miles by the usual traveled route. The following is a description of an ascent to Mount Wash- ington from the White ]\Iountain House : "Having for the first time ascended to the summit of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, J will give you, for the information of your readers, an account of the most exhila- rating and sublime excursion the country affords. At nine o'clock A.M. I left the public house in company with a guide, three ladies, six gentlemen, and a lad ten years of age 286 WHITE MOUNTAINS OF NEW IIAMPSTTIRE. each provided with a good horse to ride. After proceeding about three miles, for tlie most part through a dense forest, crossing and recrossing several times the head-waters of the Aramonoosuc River, we diverged to the right from Fabyan's bridle road to Mount Washington, and commenced ascending Mount Pleasant, elevated about 5.000 feet above the ocean. The road now became very steep for two or three miles, when the ascent was overcome and we stood on the top of Mount Pleasant. Here we struck Crawford's bridle road, running from the Notch House, four miles distant, we having come aliout six miles, which took us three hours to accomplish. We here encountered a chilly blast of wind, which biouglit all the overcoats and shawls into requisition. On the top of Mount Pleasant we encountered nothing but naked rocks, having for some time previous been above the region of vege- tation. The route now pursued leads over the summits of Mounts Franklin and Monroe, toward Mount Washington, all being elevated from five to six thousand feet above the ocean, and overlooking numerous other mountain peaks. "The Lahe of the Clouds, situated near the summit of Mount Monroe, is a small body of beautiful clear water, which sup- plies the head stream of the Ammonoosuc Paver. This little current iniinediately begins its descent, and dashes in a head- long course of several thousand feet into the valley below ; in its course uniting with several other mountain torrents, which soon form a considerable stream. "After a toilsome jaunt of four and a half hours, having traveled about nine miles, we arrived at the summit of Mount Washington, having for two hours been above all signs of vegetation, except occasionally a few plants of an Alpine character — nothing but flying clouds to be seen in every di- rection — when they would in part clear away and reveal to Bight one of the most grand and extensive views imaginable. Tiien could be distinctly seen rocks piled on rocks, and in- numerable mountain peaks in the distance, with occasional bodies of water anrl silvery streams flowing through the val- leys. Our horses were left about half a mile from the snm- mit, although horses are sometimes taken to the very top ; here was spread a cloth on a huge rock, and a bountiful re- past furnished" by our obliging guide, the contents of a well- tilled piir of saddle-bags. "After remaining on the summit one hour, we commenced our downward journey, which was all, except about one mile, performed on horseback — the party preferring to walk t)ver the most precipitouSi descent. The first three miles are a steep descent, then come about three miles of swampy ground, the remaining three miles being a good carriage or bridle road." WHITE MOUNTAINS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 287 HEIGHT OF THE PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS IN NEW ENGLAND. Maine. ti.e sta- Katahdin Mountain 5,;300 Baid Ubecme Outo|) Ai'ritham Aro-slook Bufcor's Bigciow Speckled New nAMPSiiiuE. Mt. Wasliin-ton, W/uteMts. »>• Adams " Jettersoa '^, " Ma 'isoii '' " Monroe *^ *' day " La Fayette ' *' (Ja-ter ' ♦' Franklin ♦' Tieasaiit ♦' Mo ia!i ♦' (.liimou " " JucUsoa " Webster " Whire Face Mountain. 4,000 4,000 4,000 3,Sti7 a,o 3,000 3,400 3,000 6,2S5 5,»00 I 5,"i00 5,4 , . 5,300 . r.V'OO . 5,'iOO . 4.9ti0 . 4,900 . 4,S00 . 4,; 00 . 4, 00 . 4,100 . 4,000 . 4,100 Kearsage Mountain Cuir's ' '* Ptquaquet " Guns ock " lied HUl, near CentraVilarbor 2,000 3,06T 8,: 81 3,367 2,447 2,331 Vebmokt. Mansfield Mt,, (tiie Chin) . . . . Camel's Hump Shrewsbury Mountain Mau'itield Mt., ^the Nose).. Ki l-ngion Peak Equinox Mountain Ascuiuev " 4,279 4,183 4,OS6 3,0-3 3,924 3,708 Massachusetts. Saddle Mountan 8,505 Bald Peal; '• 2,624 Spruce Hdl V88 arksburij Mountam ^,''f Beckel Fr.-nch's Hill Perrj's Peak Wacliuset Mountain. ,194 2,239 2,0S9 2,018 Maine, The u;e:.thcfr!"arbere^a;ded an,, isolated a.ounlams, nsmg m Bolilary trrandeur from among surrounding hiils. PRINCIPAL HOTELS AT THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. xT-xrae Proprietoi-a. Location. Alpine House Mr. Hitchcock. -Gorham Station. Crawford House*. . . . ,Gibbs & Co At the Notch. F ■ nio House- ^""'^"^ Franconia Mts. Sea House t ' V- V.V.J. M. Thompson. Near Mt. Washington McVawtorS House Near Mt. Crawford. - Profile House Richard Taft. . . . Near Mt. La ayeUe. T p?iop Sise: J. K. HitchcoclcTop Mt Washington White Mountain H'se.G. 'i\ Bradrook. .N'r Ammonoosuci^alis. * A bridle road runs from this house to the summit of Mount WasU- 'Tr^arriage road run. from ih.s house to the Tip-Top House, S miles. 288 PORTLAND. LAKE WINNIPISIOGEE AND THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. The Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad, running from Concord to Wells River, N. H., forms the most direct and favorite route to Lake Winnipisiogee and the White Moun- tains ; the usual time being twelve hours' ride from Boston to the Crawford House, or ten hours to Franconia Notch, or Conway. Cars make connections from Boston, leaving Boston and Lowell, or Boston and Maim Depots, connecting at Concord, N. H., affording a choice of three routes to the White Mountains. 1. Leaving the Cars at the Weirs, and taking the steamboat to Centre Harbor, (dine) and by Stage arrive at Conway same evening, ten hours from Boston, proceeding to the Mountains next day. 2. Leaving the Cars at Plymouth, (dinner) and proceeding to Franconia Notch by Stage, 24 miles, arriving same evening, ten hours from Boston. 8. Leaving the Cars at Littleton, the head of the White Mountains Railroad, and proceeding by Stage to Crawford- House, the point of departure for ascending MOUNT WASH- INGTON, arriving same afternoon at 7.30 p.m., and at Profile House, Franconia Notch, at 5.30 p.m. This route affords the best opportunity of visiting the ro- mantic LAKE WINNIPISIOGEE, on the waters of which the beautiful Steamboat Lady of the Lake, Capt. Sanborn, is constantly plying between Weirs, Centre Harbor, and Wolf- boro. Excellent Hotels, not surpassed in New England, will be found at all points on this route .^Passengers entering the Mountains by one of the ■f Above routes, can return by either of the others, as preferred. PORTLAND. This City is very advantageously situated on a peninsula at the western extremity of Ccisco Bay, distant 108 miles from Boston, 60 from Augusta, the capital of the State, 293 from ' PORTLAND. 28^ Montreal, and 570 from Washington. The city presents a beautiful appearance from the sea and the islands in the bay, as it rises like an amphitheater between two hills. It is regu- larly laid out and handsomely built, and has some fine public edifices, among which are a new exchange building, con- structed of granite in the most substantial manner ; a spacious city hall ; a court-house and jail, and 20 churches ; a custom- house, 10 banks, a theater, and an atheneum containing a libraiy of several thousand volumes. The present population is about 30,000. On an eminence called 3Iount Joy, on which Fort Sumner formerly stood, there is an observatory 82 feet in height, being elevated 226 feet above the ocean, command-' m^ a fine view of the harbor and the adjacent country. Casco Bay is seen lying to the east, studded with islands and rocky islets, said to amount to 365 in number. On the north is a body of water called Back Cove ; the city is immediately on the southwest, and presents a splendid appearance in connec- tion with the harbor and shipping. Cape Elizabeth lies on the south 3 miles distant, where is located Cape Cottage, a much frequented public house and delightful place of resort dur.ng warm weather. Fart Preble stands two miles southeast, and commands the ship channel in connection with Fort Scamm^l situated Iw.^_^^^^^^ ^••"•ilYS-oa'-dwaSeffor.. Managing Director. ^^" ADVERTISEMENTS. EASTEEN EAILROAD. BOSTON AND PORTLAND. . Trains leave Portland for Boston, arriving at the new station on Causeway Street, at 8.45 AM. and 3.00 P.M. in Summer, 8.45 A.M. and 2.30 P.M. in Winter. These Trains arrive in Boston at 1.45 and 8.00 pm. (7.30 p.m. in Winter), in season to connect with Trains for NEW YORK AND THE WEST. Trains leave Boston for Portland, at 7.30 A.M. and 3 00 P.M. in Summer, 7.30 A.M. and 2.30 P.M. in Winter, Connecting with Eailroads, Steamboats, and Stages, to all parts of MAINE AKD CAT^ADA EAST. FREIGHT TRAI^-S Daily, each way, leaving Portland and Boston at 5 00 p m Freiglit Office In Boston, 25 Mer*liants Row. The Eastern Railroad, which is the great United States Mail Route between Boston and the East, connects at Brock's Cross- r^7'-ll il^ ^J""-^^ ^"""^ ''^^ C^^^^'^y Railroad, and at Port- Kji. *^e Maine Central, Androscoggin, and'Portland and Kennebec Railroads, for Augusta, Waterville, Farmington Bangor, etc. Also with the Grand Trunk Railway, fo? the WnrrE Mountains, Montreal, Quebec, etc., and with Steamers for Eastport and St. Johns, N. B. oteameis J, PRESCOTT, Sup't, Boston. ADVERTTSF.MENTS. ^^^ BiSTOl^ km iA!ME BAILiiAD. The- Boston and Mainf. ILmi.road, connecting with the Portland, Saco, and Portland Railroad through to Portland. Th's rouN- is deservedly popular with travelers to and from the State of Maine. The Station in Boston being loeated on Hayuiurket Square, i^ very noarlv in the center of business. P s;en..er* leaving Boston, cross Charles Kiver by a bridge to Soine- TiU;, passing the Massachusetts State Prison on the right at the oro-.ng of tl c Fitchburg Railroad in Ci.arlestown ; also the Bunker Hdl Monu- ment in the dista.^ce ; thence the road crosses Mvst.c Kiver to Maiden, the Medford Branch diverging on the left. At South Reading Jnnct.on th. South Reading. Branch (to Salem) and the Ne^vburyport Railroad d - verge ; the last-named road is operated by the Boston .nd Mame RaO- road company, and is a pleasant and expeditious route to the flue old seaoort town of Newburyport. south Reading and Reading are large villages ,o be seen on the nght ns vou pass on to Wilmington (Salem and Lowell Railroad cross- s here) Ba lardlxle, and Andover. The next place is South Lawrence, opposUe ,' thriving manufacturing city of Lawrence, on the Mernmac uven Trains cro^: .he river below the dam with passengers for the cUy and U> connect with the Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence Railroad for Man- Chester, Concord, and the White Mohntains. Pa..^n<. through Andover to Bradford (Junction of the Newburypor Railroad), and then crossing the Merrima^ the large town of Havcrhdl is reached, which is the center of an extensive boot and shoe manufac Mnnclie.t.T,andCon.orlcha^ .^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^_^ of Dover, £le?t\>f a l^ge nlnXctlr^ng business and junction -Uh the D^yer S'l;^»s^^;;irsi;Cdt^i^^^^ U?e slamerl?;..o.«a for Wolfsboro' and Centre Harbor Rollinsford is the next town, and i8 the junction ot the branch to Great Fulls three miles. '. .V ' • r, <.,immi Vnlls we come to South Berwick Junction, con- ford, Saco, and Scarborough, to Portland, Mame. er. fur Baugor, Eastport, Calais, and bt. John, I?. B. 314 ADVERTISEMENTS. oasiiif 2?3LiE^gwais aswffis, Vermont Central R.R. Line, TO Mount Mansfield, White and Franconia Moun- tains, Lake Champlaiuj Lake George, Saratoga, Niagara Falls, Lake Ontario, Thousand Isl- ands, Eapids of the River St. Lawrence, Tliis Routs passes through the Valley of Vermont, which has the most Splendid Scenery in New England ! MANSFIELD MOUNTAIN is the highest land in Vermont, being about 5,000 feet high, giving a magnificent view of the whole range of the Green Mountains, and scenery that is not excelled in the Union. The Vermont Central Link is the most direct Route be- tween Boston and Montreal, and Quebec ; between Boston and Ogdensburgh. Niagara Falls and Canada West ; between New York and Montreal, either via Springfield and Connecticut Eiver Railroad, or via Albany, Troy, or Saratoga. Tickets for this line will be on sale in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, etc., etc., giving Round Trips at Reduced Rates, which will be advertised in the papers. For any further information, apply at the GENERAL AGENCY, NO. 5 STATE STREET, BOSTON. S. H. FISHER, Trav. Agt. L. MILLIS, Gen'l Agt. Boston, May 23, 1864. OIK ADVERTISEMENTS International Stcam.s|ig €q. DESIRABLE PLEASURE ROUTE FOR EASTPORT and CALVIS, Me,; ST. JOHX, N.B.; HALIFAX, N.S.; and €HARLOTTETOWN, Prince. Edward Island. ^ ^'x-T-r sT-v fiOING STEAMEE9 THE SUPERIOR ^i-W SEA-CxOi-r1hr:',;:lrtriile away an hou. i. dancing. , u.„fo^ for its fine trout, Oswego bass, ,^'':^:^'^:^^^^ --^ -^ '^'' '' "^" ^r Livery Stable is oonnect^^r: ^P^s^^l^llS with an abundance of stable ^ ^^ bain lOO ^^^,^ .. tobringtheirhorses and carnages to m^^^ ^^^^ Lake vate stables ^^^^^ c™Se-houses^ ^^^^ unsurpassed. Shore and through the sunx^undn| country ^. ,^^ i,,. Steamers from New Yoik to Alljany ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ closed apartments for ^^^^^^Zd arrive at the Fort New York at six p.m., ^^^^/,' ff,^''l„' The driving distance SZrto'l^^e teo^:t52i:ui ove. a good tu.npiU. road. ADVERTISEMENTS. ST. LAWRENCE HALL, GREAT ST. JAMES STREET H. HOGAN, PKOPRIKTOR or Church VilloTilrie Notr? I> - Sf *''f ?''<""■'> Cathedral, cent to the Post Offlce Race d^Alef "■' .' ■"> T""?'"'-^ ■«'>- every one of which f. uJlf\l^A ^''' «^^^ ^^^ apartments, erayone of which is lighted by gas. NOTRE DAME STREET, MONTREAL. ST. JULIEN & MCKEOGH, PROPRIETORS. ©flAWA ffOTEl, GRKAT ST. JAMES STRKKT, MONTREAL. S. BROWNING, PBOPRIETOB. ADVERTISEMENTS. 321 PA I. ACE STKKET, QUEBEC. The above comfortable and well-known establishment, bav- in lc been thoroughly renovated and refitted during the winter recess, is re-opened for the r«" Hydro-bromate of Po^tasb, a trace 000 597,943 Soiid contents m a galion. Carbonic Acid Gas. 311 Atmospheric Air.. 7 Gaseoms contents { gj^g c^bic inch ia a gallon. ) CI.ARRE bottled Seven Montlis. ^ _^.^^ Chlonde of Sodium 8S5.44 Hydriodate of Soda 4.03 Carbonate of Lime 11*5.00 Carbonate of Magnesia. Oxide of Iron Carbonate of Soda '^^ Hydro-bromate of Potash, a trace. 56.80 64 00 Solid contents in a gallon. ^ WHITE, .508.46 Proprietors of Congress Spring, 324 ADVERTISEMENTS. EMPIEE SPRING WATER. The Empire Spring was purchased by D. A. Knowlton in 1861, and was placed in the hands of a Stock Company in I860. This wa,ter is better adapted to general use than any other Mineral Water on this continent. It is more widely effica- cious as a remedial agent than the water from any other min- eral spring. This opinion is sustained by eminent medical men, and, what is still more important, by the actual experi- ence of thousands. The public are fast becoming convinced of this, for it is a well-known fact that the owners of Congress Spring have sold a very large amount of water for years, and yefc the Revenue Tax paid by that Spring the last twelve months proves that in some of the best business months the Empire Spring Company have sold and shipi)ed more water than the C:mgress. Saratoga Springs, June 8th, 1864. D. A. KNOW L.T01V, Pres't Saratoga Empire Spring Co. ^W° SoFTHEEN Dkpot 18 John St. New York. SARATOGA WATER-CUJIE, Opposite tBfie " Coiag's-i'*;^ Spriaag Ptirk." OPKN ALL THE YEAK. THIS IS ONE OF THE LARGEST WATER-CURES IN THE COUNTRY, ACCOMMODATINS ABOUT TWO HUNDRED GUESTS. ^ It is pleasantly located. The rooms, especially in the brick part, are large, airy, and well furnished. Persons visiting the SiJrings, either for health or recreation, can be accommodated Avith a quiet home, good wholesome food, expierienced medi- cal advice, and other facilities for restoration and enjoyment, which would make tlicir stay here pleasant and profitable. N. BEDOETHA, M.D., Proprietor and Fliysician. 1 .A SSPT 68 WH^)^' N.MANCHESTER oo^