E F 106 IV SECOND EDITION .C52 Copy 1 * 1 lUatcr Kploring ^ LITTLE AND BIG TRIPS BY SEA. RIVER AND BAY COAST AND LAKE Price. 10 Cents 1*.;;^ s Brooklvn Caglc Librarv No. 69 I/ong Brancli and Back, - 50 cents Asbury Park and Back, - 80 cents P ATTEN I INE "Down the Bay'* ** Thro the Narrows " Up the Picturesque Shrewsbury** HIGHLANDS, SEABRIGHT PLEASURE BAY Trolley Connexion at Pleasure Bay for ASBURY PARK AND OCEAN GROVE and all Resorts on the Jersey Seacoast. "The Surf Always in View" NEW YORK PIERS: Foot West Thirteenth Street, AND Battery (near South Perry). TIME TABLES IN DAILY PAPERS. Water Exploring A GUIDE TO PLEASANT STEAMBOAT TRIPS EVERYWHERE BY CROMWELL CHILDE Editor of "Trolley Exploring" The Eagle Trolley Book Journeys of a Morning or an Afternoon Tours of a Day to a Week Sound, Hudso7i, Sea Coast and Inland Rivers NORTH, SOUTH, EAST AND WEST PUBLISHED BY THE Brooklyn Daily Eagle VOL. XVII, No. lo, SERIAL No. 69 OF THE EAGLE LIBRARY Entered at the Brooklyn-New York Post Office as second class matter (second edition) Copyrighted, 1902 Water Exploring. CS*^ F.W.DeYoe&[.T.Rplils[o. ESTABLISHED 1750 T/ig oldest and largest Pamt and Varnish Company m the Lnited States /T\ar)ufaeturer5 of paipts \/ari>isl?es BriJ5l7e8 /^rti5t5' fr\aterial5 Fulton and William Sts. 176 Randolph St. NEW YORK CHICAGO CATALOGUES ON APPLICATION ~ 3/3(5 r. INDEX. PAGE Up the Hudson 9 Feriying Around New York 25 New York's Beaches and Resorts 30 Other New York Trips 33 Little Jersey Journeys 35 Over Long Island Sound Waters 39 On the Connecticut 54 Long Island's Great South Bay 56 Tours By Canal Boat 57 Out in the Open Off Massachusetts 59 The Maine Coast : 65 The Maritime Provinces 75 The St. Lavrrence and the Great Lakes 81 Circular Tours 97 Some Inland Journeys 98 Coastwise Southward 100 PAGE Adirondacks (The), N. Y . . . . 14 Albany, N. Y. . . . 9-14, 16, 20, 22 Alexandria Bay, N. Y ...... . 84 Allenhurst, N.J 37 Annapolis, N. S 76, 77, 78 Ansonia. Conn 51 Anthony's Nose, N. Y 12 Arthur Kill, N. J 35 Asbury Park, M.J 36, 37 Astoria, L. 1 29, U Atlantic Highlands, N. J. . . . 37 Augusta. Me 69, 70 Avon, N. J 37 Babylon, L. 1 57 Baddeck, Cape Breton 80 Baldwin, N. Y 99 Baltimore. Md 101, 102-106 Bangor, Me 67, 71 Bar Harbor, Me 65-72 Barnegat, N.J 101 Barnstable, Mass 59 Barrvtown, N. Y 24 Bath,Me 69, 70 Bayside, L. 1 34 Bay ville, L. I 52 Belfast, Me 65, 67 Belmar, N. J 37 Beverly, Mass 62 Block island . . . .40-43, 47, 48, 59 Boon Island, Me 66 Boothbay Harbor. Me. ...69, 70 Boston, Mass. . . .45, 59-72, 77, 78, 98, 103, 105 Bras d'Or Lakes 78, 80 Breakneck Mountain, N. Y . . 12 Bridgeport, Conn 44, 50 Brooklyn, N. Y 13, 27, 28, 32, 42, .52 Brunswick. Ga 107 Bucksport, Me 71 Buffalo, N.Y 86-88,97, 98 Buzzards' Bay, Mass 59, 61 Calais, Me 65, 68, 69, 73 Caldwell, N. Y 99 Camden, Me 67, 68 Campobello, Me 68, 69, 73 Canarsie, L.I 31 Canso ( Straits of) 78, 80 Cape Ann, Mass 62, 66 Cape Charles, Del 101 Cape Cod, Mass. 59, 60, 61, 64, 66 Cape Henry, Va 101 Cape Vincent, N. Y 84 Carteret, N. J 38 CascoBay, Me 65,66. 73 Castine, Me 65. 71, 72 Catskill, N. Y . 10. 13, 14. 18, 19, 23 Catskill 3Iountains. N. Y.IO, 12, 14, 15 Center Island, L.I 52 Chaleur (Bay of ) N. B 82 Charleston, 'S. C 107 Water Exploring. PAGE PAGE Charlotte, N. Y 84 Flushing, L. I 32 Charlottetowu, P. E. I. .7(5^*80. Fort Clinton. N. Y , 12 83, 98 Fort Constitution. N. Y.. . 12 Chatham, Mass 60 Fort Hamilton, N. Y 34 Chesapeake Bay ...102, 103 Fort Independence, Mass 63 Chicagro, HI 87, W, 95, 98 Fort Independence, N. Y, 12 Chicoutimi, Canada.. 8;^ Fort Lee. N.J 11 Clayton, N.Y 84 Fortress Monroe, Va 102 Cleveland, Ohio .86-90, 9-< Fort Montgomery, N. Y . 12 Cohasset, Mass 63 Fort Putnam, N. Y 12 Cold Spring. L. I 52 Fort Schuyler, N.Y... 34, 40, 44 Cold-Spring-on-Hudson , N. Y . Fort Tieonderoga, N. Y . , 99 20, 21 Fort Totten. N. Y .34 40 College Point, L. I.... 29 Fort Wadsworth, N. Y . . . 34 Colling wood. Canada. 92 Fort Washington, N.Y 10 Coney Island. N. Y... 30 Fort William, Lake Superior 96 Connecticut River ....54, 55 Fort Winthrop, Mass Fredericton, N. B 63 Cornwall. X. Y .15, 20, 21 79 Cottage City, Mass ... ....61, 62 Freeport, L. I , . . . 56 Coxsackie. N. Y ....18, 19 Frenchman's Baj-, Me . . . .71, 72 Cranstons. N. Y 15 Friendship. Me 70 Cro"nest (mountain). N. Y.. 12 Fundy (Bayof).N. B..69, 76, 78 Croton, N. Y 24 Galveston, Texas m. 107 Darien, Conn 51 Garden City, L. I 56 David's Island, N. Y.. ....34, 41 Gardiner's Island, L. I. . . ,40, 43 Deal Beach, N. J 37 Gaspe, N. B 82 Deep River, Conn 55 Greorgian Bav. Canada. . . ,90, 92 Delaware Lightship, ] Del.... 101 Glastonbury, Conn 55 Delaware River 103 Glen Cove, L. I 49 Derby, Conn 51 Glen Island. N.Y 32 Detroit. Mich 86-91 Glenwood, L. I , 49 Digby. N. S .69, 76, 78 Gloucester. Mass 62 Dobbs Ferry, N. Y. . . , 11, 23 Goodspeeds, Conn 55 Duluth, Minn... 81, 86. ,94,97, 98 Governor's Island, N. Y . '^^ Dunderberg (The), N. Y.... 12 Grand Haven, Mich 95 Duxbury, Mass 63 Grand Manan Island, Me 69 Grand Pre, N. S 76. 77, 78 East New York. N. Y 31 Grassy Point, N. Y 23 East Norwalk, Conn . . 51 Great Neck. L. I , 49 Eastport, Me 65. , 68. 69, 73 Great South Bay. L. I. . . . 56, 57 Edgartown, Mass 62 Green Bay, Wis 95 Edgewater, N. J 29 Green Cove Springs, Fla. 107 Elberon, N.J 37 Greenport. L. I .41. 42 Elizabeth Islands, Mass 61 Greenwich. Conn .53 Erie, Pa 86 Gulf of Mexico 100 Esopus. N. Y 15, 20 Halifax. N S 69,7 •6, 82-98 Fairfield, Conn 51 Hallowell, Me 69 Fair Haven, N. J 38 Hampden, Me , 71 Fall River, Mass. 40, 43. 4 J, 47, 61 Hampton Roads. Va 102 Farmington. Coun. . . 55 Hancock. Mich 86 Far Rockaway, L. I.. 31 Hai-pswell. Me 73 Father Point, N. B. . . . 82 Hartford. Conn .54. ,55 Fire Island. L. I 57 Havana, Cuba 108 Fisher's Island, Conn. 48 Haverstraw, N. Y .12, 23 Fishing Banks. N. Y.. Fishkill. N. Y 35 Hawkesbury, N. S 77 .iti. 20, 21 Hempstead, L. I 56 Index. PAGE Hempstead Harbor, L. 1 49 Heron Island, Me 70 Highlands of New Jersey . . 36, 38 Highland Beach, N. J 36 Highland, N.Y 20 Highland Falls, N. Y . . 15, 20, 21 " Highlands of the Hudson/' N.Y 10,13,15, 19 Hingham,Mass 63 Hoboken, N. J 27 Hog Island Light. Del 101 Hollywood, N. J 37 Houghton, Mich 87 Hudson, N. Y 10-14, 18, 19 Huntington, L. 1 52 Hyannis, Mass 60 HydePark, N. Y 24 luterlaken, N.J 37 Irvington, N. Y 11 Islesboro. Me 71, 72 Isles of Shoals, Mass 66, 67 Jacksonville. Fla 107 Jamaica. L.I 31 Jamaica Bay, L.I 31 James River, Va 102, 105 Jamestown, R. 1 45 Jamestown, Va 104 Jersey City, N. J. 27-29 Kawartha Lakes, Canada. . . 94 Kennebec River, Me. . .65, 69, 70 Keyport. N. J 38 Key West, Fla 107 Kill van Kull, N. J 35, 37 Kinderhook, N. Y 12 Kingsport, N. S 79 Kingston. Canada 84 Kingston, N. Y. .10, 13-15, 20, 22 Labrador, (ports of) 80 Lachlne Rapids, Canada 84 Lake of Bays, Canada 93 Lake Champlain, N.Y..10, 14. 98 Lake Erie 86, 88 Lake George, N. Y . . 10, 12, 14. 98 Lake Huron 86,90, 92 Lake Michigan 90, 95 Lake Ontario 83 Lake St. Clair S8, 90, 91 Lake Success, L. 1 49 Lake Superior. . .81, 86, 91, 95 96 Larchmont, N. Y 23 Les Cheneaux Islands, Can. . 92 Lewiston. N. Y 84, 98 Liberty Island, N. Y 34 Linoleum ville, S.I 38 PAGE Lloyd's Dock, L. 1 52 Locust Point, N.J 38 Long Beach. L.I 56 Long Branch, N.J 36, 37 LongIslandCity,L. I..29, 32, 42 Lubec, Me 68 Lyme, Conn 55 Lynn, Mass 63 Machias, Me. . . 65, 71 Machiasport. Me 72 Mackinac (island and lake), Mich :.. 86-95 Magnolia, Mass 62 Magnolia Springs, Fla 107 Mamaroneck, N.Y 23, 53 Manchester, Conn 55 Manchester, "^Vlass 62 Manitouliu Islands. Canada . 92 Manito Mountain, N. Y 12 Mansfield. Mass 63 Marblehead, 3Iass 62 Marlborough, N. Y 20 Marquette. 3Iich 86 Martha's Vineyard, Mass. . 61, 62 Massachusetts Bay 65 Meriden. Conn 55 Middle Haddam, Conn 55 Middletown, Conn 55 Midland Beach, S. 1 32 Milton, N.Y 15, 20 Milwaukee, Wis 87 Mineola, L.I 56 Minneapolis, Minn 97. 98 Minot Light. Mass 78 Mississippi River 97, 98 Montauk Point, L. 1 42 Montreal, Canada. .14, 7ti. 82. 83, 85, 98 Mount Beacon, N.Y 21 Mount Desert, Me 65-72 Mt. Taurus, N. Y 12 Mount Vernon, Md 103 Mount Vernon, N.Y 23, 25 Mulgrave, Cape Breton 80 Muskoka Lakes, Canada 94 Nahant, Mass 62, 63, 67 Nantasket Beach, Mass 63 Nantucket, Mass 61, 62 Naples (Bay of ), Me 74 Narragansett Bay 47, 59 N arragansett Pier. R.I 45 Narrows (The), N.Y 30, 36 Navesink River. N. J 36, 38 New Bedford, Mass 44, 61, 62 New Britain. Conn 55 New Bnmswick, N. J 37 Newburgh, N.Y... 10-15.21.22 25 Water Exploring. New Hamburgh, N. Y. . . .15. 20 New Harbor. Me 70 New Haven. Conn 46, 47, 51 New London, Conn 41-48 New Orleans, La 97-100, 108 Newport. R. 1 4-3-47 Newport News. Va..l01, 104, 105 New Rochelle. N.Y 23, 53 New York. N. Y. .9-55. 59-61, 65. 66, 76, 97-102, 106, 107 Niagara River, N. Y 81 Norfolk. Va 101. 103, 104, 105 North Beach. N. Y 32 Northeast Harbor, Me. .65,67,71,72 Northport. L. 1 52 Norwalk. Conn 51, 52 Norwich. Conn 47 Nyack, N.Y 11, 23 Ocean Grove, N. J 36, 37 Oceanic. N. J 38 Old Orchard Beach, Me 67 Old Point Comfort. Ya..l01, 103, 104 Orient, L. 1 43 Orr's Island, Me 73 Ossinine:. N. Y 24 Oswego, N. Y 84 Ottawa, Canada 85 Owen Sound. Canada 92, 96 Oyster Bay, L.I 52 Palatka, Fla 107 Pahsades (The), N. J 9 Parrsboro. N. S 79 Parry Sound. Canada 93 Passamaquoddy Bay, Me 69 Peconic Bay. L. 1 42 Peekskill, N. Y -22-24 Pemberton. Mass 63 Penobscot Bay. Me 72 Penobscot River, Me.. 65, 67, 71 Pensacola. Fla 108 Perth Amboy. N. J 38, 39 Petit Manan, Me 72 Philadelphia, Pa 103, 106 Pictou. N. S 76,80,82, 98 Piermont. N. Y 11 Pittsburg, Pa 98 Plattsburgh. N.Y 99 Pleasure Bay, N. J 36 Plum Gilt, L. 1 43 Plymouth, Mass 63, &4 Point du Chene, N. B 76 Point Judith. R. 1 45 Point Lookout, L. 1 56 Popham Beach , Me 69, 70 Port Arthur. Lake Superior. 96 PAGE Port Aux Basques, New- foundland 80 Portchester, N. Y 53 Port Clyde, Me 70 Port Huron, Mich 86, 91 Port Jefferson. L. 1 50, 51 Portland, Me 65-74 Portsmouth. Va 101, 104 Potomac River 102,103 Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 10-15. 20, 23 Providence. R. 1.40, 44-47. 61. 105 Provincetown, Mass . . 59, 60, 64 Prescott, Canada 83 Put-in-Bay, Ohio 90 Quebec. Canada 83, 98 Race Point Light, Mass 60 Raritau River, N. J 35, 37 RedBank. N. J 38 Revere Beach. Mass 62 Rhinecliflf. N. Y 24 Richmond. Va 101, 104 Riviere du Loup, Canada S3 Rochester. N. Y U Rockaway Beach. N. Y . . . 31, 32 Rockland. Me. . .67. 68, 70, 71, 72 Rockland Lake. N. Y 23 Romer Light. N. Y. Bay .... 101 Roudout. N.Y 10-15, 20-23 Rossville. S. 1 38, 39 Roton Point, Conn 51 Round Island, 3Ie 70 Round Island, N. Y 84 Sag Harbor. L. I 41-43 " Sagueuay River '^2., 83 St. Andrews. N. B 68. 69, 73 St. George. S. 1 27 St. John, N. B. . .68, 69. 76, 78. 79 St. Johns, Newfoundland. 75- 80 83 St. Johns River, Fla .' 107 St. Lawrence (Gulf) 76, 82 St. Lawrence River 82 St. Louis. Mo 97, 98 St. Mary's River, Canada — 91 St. Patil. Minn 97, 98 Salem. JIass t'2 Sands Point, L. 1 49 Sandv Hook, N. J 35, 36 Sandy Point. N. Y 84 Sanf ord, Fla 107 Saratoga. N.Y 17 Saugerties. N. Y 23, 24 Sault Ste. Marie, Canada. 86, 91-96 Savannah, Ga 106 Index. PAGE Saybrook, Conn 54 Sa vreville, N.J 08 Schodack. N. Y 12 Scituate, Mass 63 ■■Sconset, Mass 62 Scotland Light Ship, N. Y. Bay 101 Seabright, N.J 36 Sea Gate. L. 1 30 SeaCliff, L. 1 49 Seal Harbor, Me 67,71. 72 Sebago Lake, Me 74 Sedgwick. Me 71, 72 Sheboygan, Mich 91 Shelter Island, L. 1 41—43 Shrewsbury River, N. J 36 SingSing, N. Y 12, 24 Songo River, Me 74 Sorrento, Me 71 South Auibo}% N. J 38 South Glastonbury, Conn 55 South Norwalk, Conn 51 Southold, L. I 43 Southwest Harbor. Me 65, 67, 71, 72 Springfield, Mass 55 Squirrel Island, Me 70 Stamford, Conn 53 Staten Island 27, 32, 35 Stonington, Conn 45 Stony Point, N. Y 12 Storm King ( Mountain), N. Y. 12 Stratford, Conn 51 Suuimerside, P. E. 1 76 Swampscott, Mass 62 Sydney, Cape Breton I 76-83 PAGE Tadousac. Canada 84 Tampa, Fla 108 Tappan Zee, N. Y 11, 23 Tarry town . N. Y 11, 23 Thousand Islands. N. Y 84 Throgs Neck, N. Y 44 Tivoli, N. Y 12, 24 Toledo, Ohio 90 Toronto. Canada 83, 92, 94, 98 Tottenville, S. 1 38, 39 Troy, N. Y.9, 10, 12, 16, 17, 20. 22 Truro, Mass 60 Ulster Landing, N. Y 24 Verplanck's, N. Y 12, 23, 24 Vinal Haven, Me 65, 7'4 Vineyard Haven, Mass 61 Vineyard Sound, Mass 59, 61 Washington, D. C 101, 103 Watch Hill. R. 1 45,47, 48 Weehawken. N.J 27, 29 West End, N. J 37 West Point. N. Y . . . 10-13, 20-25 White Plains. N. Y 23 Willet's Point. N. Y . .34, 40, 44 Wilmington. N. C 107 Woods Hole, Mass 59, 61 Yarmouth. Mass 60 Yarmoutr., N. S 69, 76, 78 Yonkers, N. Y. . .9, 11. 13, 20, 21,23,24, 25 Water Exploring. Rockaway Line ^•*= ''*'*J^: > *%^. Palatial Sleamerj Grand Republic Gen* I Slocum.... ONLY ALL-WATER ROUTE TO ROCKAWAY BEACH Connecting with Trolley at SEASIDE for ARVERNE-BY-THE-SEA EDGEMERE FAR ROCKAWAY Leave West J 29th Street 9.00 A. M. ** West 20th Street 8.40 10.00 ** 1.35 P. M. ** Battery Landing 9.20 10.40 ** 2.05 ** " Rockaway U.OO 5.00 " 6.15 ** Hound Urip, 50c. up the Hudson. T is not appropriate— nor has it ever been— to speak of the Hudson as the "' Rhine of America." Such a phrase does far too Uttle justice. The river that is I'eihaps the most famous scenicallj' and historically of all the rivers of the Westeni Continent need not borrow any of the glories of the Rhine-land. It is the " Hudson of America"— an all-sufficient claim— and tradition and beauty to- gether have woven into it an interest that is uuexanpled. ^'o stretch of water in all this country opens up greater touring possibilities. Navigable for more than 150 miles, by night and by day STORM KING, HUDSON RIVER. it is steamed over by some of the finest steamers in the world— literally. It is not until one has traveled extensively in Europe that he comes to realize the superiority of these American boats of the Hudson, Long Island Sound and the Great Lakes. Morning, after- nooQ and evening, very nearly every hour, there is some steamboat leaving New York to pass the Palisades and proceed north, perhaps to Albany, or the head of practical navigation, Troy, perhaps but a few miles up, Altogether, there are some 12 Hudson River journeys that may be made, with Ne^v York as their starting point. At Yonkers, 10 Water Exploring. West Point. NewburgK, Poughkeepsie, Kingston, R^ond- out, Albarvy, Troy, aucl other towus and cities along the river bank, these boats may be taken and reverse tours or partial tours made. From Albany or Troy, by way of railroad or trolley, the Lak.ke George and Lake CKampIaLin country, rich in steam- boat traveling, may be reached. (See Index.) But of itself the Hudson is enough. With the journeys over it near at hand to the great centre of New York it accommodates itself to the slimmest poeketbook. Tours of a night, a day, half a day, or even a few hours, are what it has to offer, none of them costly ones, all beautiful to the eye, entfrtaining to the mind with their historic memories. There is little of exaggeration in saying that nearly every foot of the Hudson's east bank and no small part of the wescern has some his- tory of its own, and that each turn of the river for the first 80 miles briiigs forward some lovelier picture and view. Above Poughkeepsie the mountains and the high ground come to an end and there is no longer the grandeur of the early stages. Yet even here traditions mark out many a spot, and the river is still a noble one. West Point is 50 miles from Manhattan Island ; Ne^vburgh, 60 ; Poughkeepsie, (^5. Kingston and Catskill, the two gates to the Catskill Movintains that lie to the west, are respectively 90 and 115. Hudson is 120 miles up, and Albany 150. Just below West Point begin the famous " Highlands of the Hudson," where the river cuts through forbidding movmtain sides for miles. These Highlands are the Hudson's scenic climax, A hundred and more paragraphs might be written on the history an.rrytown, Tarwee- town, is now passed, with its Pocantico Creek and its Sleepy Hollow Church, its old Colonial mill, all the same as in bygone times. But with the story of the Hudson even the sedate hand-book pen runs away. Only the bare mention of places and a hint of their history can be given. Andre, English major, was captured in Ta.rrytowrv. He was hanged on the hills just back of Piermont across Tappan Zee. There is Nyack, a modern suburban town on the west bank, just 12 Water Exploring to Pierraont's north, and then the way leads under Hook Mountain, first passing: Sing Sing and its easily visible prison and Teller's Point where the sloop Vulture laid to for Andre, into Haverstraw And now the Highlands, with their Stony Point, reminscent of "■ Mad "' Anthony Wayne, Verplanck's Point, the Dunderberg and the Manito Mountains (the gateway to the south), the sites of Forts Independence, Clinton and Montgomery, the mountain of Anthony's Nose where one of the chains was swung across the river during the Revolution. Fort Constitution on the east bank (on an island after- wards made famous bv the Warner sisters, one of whom wrote ■■ The Wide, Wide World "), and West Point and Fort Putnam, with Mt, Taurus, Breakneck, Storm King and Cro'nest guarding the northern approach. The series of pictures alone is wonderful, and from the heights of West Point the essence of all the Hudson's scenic and romantic beauty is to be had. Nor must the modern phase of West Point as the great American Military Academy and the place of all places for a summer day's touring and stopping be forgotten. Washmgton's Headquarters is the sight of Newburgh, and along here the river broadens into another of its lakes. Poughkeepsie is now a famous Hudson River city. At FisKkill just below was laid the scene of Cooper's " Spv ", and at Rondout is one of the earliest settlements, a Dutch trading post that started m 1614. Tue first steamboat, bulton's Clermont, was built in the bay just to the south of Tivoli. Hudson, another of the river's cities, has no sooner been reached, than the Water Explorer has facing him Catskid-land, where Rip Van Winkle bowled and lost twenty years of his life. From now on the river banks are more especially old Dutch ter- ritory, where President Van Buren came from ( KinderKook itself is passed and Schodack, a council place of the ftlohegan Indi- ans long before old Dutch days.) Albany needs a visit, for many reasons. In both the historic and the modern sense it is a noble city. 16! 2 was the date of its founding, and it was first called Beaver- vvyck, tnen Fort Or- ange. In plain view of the boats, just before the city is reached, is the 31anor House of Van Rens- selaer, going back to 1642. It is said that "Yankee Doodle ' was composed within its walls. Troy is a great manufacturing city. From Albany on to Lake George (take trolley cars from Albany) is a rich and interesting Revolutionary country, a splendid tour for a day (see "Trolley Exploring," under Albany). BOSTON LIGHT. Up the Hudson. JOURNEY I. Between New York a-nd Albany by da.ylight on the Hudson R.iver Da^y Line Steamers. ''New York" a^nd "Albany," touching at Yon- kers. West Point, Newburgh, Pough- keepsie, Kingston Point, CaLtskill, Hud- son. A full day's trip — 8.40 A. M. to 6.10 P. M. Combination day excursion trips may also be ma.de from New York to West Point, Newburgh or Pough- keepsie, thence returning by the dow^n boa-t to New York; from Alba.ny to Hudson, Catskill or Kingston Point, ret\irning by the up boat to Albany. A day on the fTudsoa, from breakfast to the dinrer hour, either over the river s full lens^th bat ween metiopolis and State Capitol, or else part way and returning at sunset to the starting point is what these famous boats provide for the Water Explorer. Start- ing from New York the glories of the HigKlands of the Hvid- sorv are seen in the full light of mid-day. Going north the start is made at 8.40 4.M. (Desbrofcses street. New York); Brooklyn (by way of Annex, foot of Fulton street), 8 o'clock; West Twenty-second street. North River, 9.00 ; West 129th street, N. R., at 9.15. Yonk- ers is reached at 9.45, West Point at 11.50, Newburgh, 12.25, Poughkeepsie, 1.15 P.M.. Albany, 6.10. Going south. Albany is left at 8.30 A.M., Hudson is touched at 10.40, Povighkeepsie at 1.20, West Point at 2.50, the pier at the foot of Desbrosses street. New York, being gained at 6 o'clock in the evening. Their size, if nothing else, would make these boats objects of especial interest to the tourist. Each hns a license for carrying 2,500 passengers, and both are elegantly titted up. They carry no freight, and are steamers of a purely American type, open and of a vast deck capacity, 341 and 325 feet long, respectively, and of 74 and 75 foot beam. A feature of these boats are their elaborate saloons and decorations. There are private parlors to be had at a cost of S5. Meals are served aboard from 7 A.M., and a table d'hote breakfast until 9.30 A.M. (75 cents), a table d'hote dinner from 11 to 3 o'clock ($1.00). Besides these accommodations there is a lunch room on each boat for lighter refreshments, including coffee and sandwiches. 14 Water Exploring. LANDING AT NEWBURGH, HUDSON RIVER. open all day. From the tables of the res- taurants an excellent view of the i-iver is offered. Between New York and Albany the fares are $2.00; round trip $3.50. No Sunday trips are made ; the last run for 1902 will be from Albarvy Octo- ber 20th, from New York October 18. Not the least agree- able way to tour the Hudson by these is to take one of the combiBation trips from either New^ York or Albany, proceeding part way up or down the river, stopping off and returning by tlie other boat of the line. These possible combinations are: New York to West Point. Spend three hours here and take south bound steamer back. Aiuple time to view all the sights of the iMilitary Academy. Excursion fare, $1.00; excursion returning by train from West Point $1.50. New York to Newbvirgh. A stop of an hour and fifty min- utes. Washington's Headquarters can be visited. Dine at United States Hotel in Newburgh (opposite landing, 50 cents), or at the Palatine, a famous new hotel of the Hudson Valley (free bus). Re- turn in south bound boat. Excursion fare, $1.00; excursion, return- ing by train, $1.75. New York to Povighvkeepsie. Direct and immediate connec- tion with boat returning. Excursion fare, $1 .50. Albany to Hvidson. 5 hours wait over. Returning in north bound boat. Excursion fare, 75 cents. Albany to Ca^tskill. Spend four hours and 25 minuies in CaLtskill, returning in north bound boat. Excursion fare, 75 cents. Albany to Kingston Point. Arrive at Kingston Point, leave on return to Albany 2.10, Excursion fare, $1.00. This is also one of the noted routes to the Ca>.tskills. and by train from Albany to the La^ke George and La^ke Cha^mplain steamers, to the A^irondacks and to MontreaLl. Up the HudFion. JOUR.NEY II. Between New York a^nd Kingston on StesLmer "Mary Powell," stopping at Highland Falls. (Cra-nston's), West Point, Cornwall, New- burgh, New Hamburgh, Milton, Pough- keepsie, Esopus, Kingston (R^ondovit). A la^te afternoon trip, pa^ssing through the Highla^nds just before sunset. On Sat- urdays, leaving at 1.45 instesvd of 3.15 P. M., there is a. possible combination trip to West Point and return by Stea-mer *• R^amsdell," or by railroad. Journey 1 covered the Hudson by day; this steamer traverses the historic and beautiful wateis of the Highlands just at evening. The " Mary Powell " has been for a generation one of the most cele- brated of tourist craft. The course she goes over is not long, but a 5!4-hour trip, from New York to Rorvdout (90 miles), and she re- turns to New York the following morning. At R^ondovit con- nections are made for the Catskills. Restaurant aboard, European plan. Table d'hote dinner, 7ri cents. To many the Hudson's Highlands are their loveliest in the half lights just before nightfall, and this journey has much to commend it. The " Powell " leaves her Desbrosses Street Pier, Ne\v York (every day except Saturday) 3.15 P. M., and the foot of West 22d Street 3.30, arriving at Highland Fadls 6 o'clock. West Point 6.10 and Rondovjt 8.45. Other points touched are Cornw^all, New^burgh, New^ HaLmburgK, Mil- ton, Poughkeepsie and Esopus. In the mornings Rorvdout is left at 5.30 A. M. (e^^cept Sunday), PovigKkeepsie at 6.30, and New^ York, down town (Desbrosses Street) reached at 11.10. Saturday afternoon this steamer leaves her Desbrosses street pier at 1.45, the foot of West Twenty-second street at 2 o'clock, the foot of West One Hundred and Twen- ty-ninth street at 2.20, arriving at New- burgh at 5.20, Rorvdout 7.25. An ex- cursion trip worth the taking is possible each Saturday, on the "Poweir''to West Point, arriving at 4.45, viewing the Acade- my and glimpsing the superb scenes of fishing up in Ontario 16 Water Exploring. the river from its plateau, seeing Dress Parade, dining at the hotel and returning to New York by steamer " Ramsdell," getting back at 10.30 at night. The fares by the '"Mary Poweir' are : HigKlaLnd Falls, West Point, Corrvwa.Il and Newbvirgh, from or to New^ York, 75 cents one way; round trip, §1.00 ; het\A-een Milton, New Ham- burgK or Poughkeepsie and New York, 75 cents oneway; round trip, $1.25 ; Esopvis or Rondout, $1.00 one way; excursion $1.50. JOURNEY III. Between New York aLfid Albany on the People's Line, Steamers "Adirondack" a^nd "Dean Richmond." A night trip up or dow^n the Hudson (Sundays excepted), leaving New^ York a.t 6 P. M., Albatny, 8 o'clock. Up the Hudson by night is no less fascinating than by day, and only those ill or tired go to their staterooms of a summer night on these boats before the southern fringe, at least, of the Highlands are approached. There is a charm in traveling on these floating hotels of Hudson traffic that must be known before it can be well under- stood. The " Adirondack" and the *' Dean Richmond" leave New York from new Pier 32 (foot of Canal street. North River) at 6 o'clock each evening en route to Albany. The fare to Albany is $1.50 (excur- sion, $2.50), and staterooms $1 to $5. Meals are served a la carte. These boats leave Albany at 8 o'clock each night. JOURNEY IV. Between New York and Troy on the Citizens' Line Steacnxers "City of Troy" and ** Sara- toga." A Hudson Reiver night trip every evening of the week, excepting Sa.tur- da.y. lea^ving Troy 7.30 P. M. (6 P. M. on Sunda^ys) ; New York a^t 6 o'clock, touching at Albany on the down boat Sunday night, on the \ip boat Monda^y morning. Up the Hudson 17 Another night route over the Hudson, in the progress of which searchlights are thrown from the steamers, making a series of fantastic and interesting river pictures. New York being left at 6 in the evening it is dark before the notable features of the Hud- y b-V-J-^i S^* A^ jj^^^n'M, SPOKEN OFF MAINE. son are reached, as in Journey HI. This is the hne to Troy, making direct connections with Saratoga. Its boats, " City of Troy" and " Saratoga," charge $1.50 between the two cities, ex- 18 Water Exploring. cursion rate, $2.50. Staterooms are $1.00 and S2.00 each, and raeals are a la carte. With the exception of Saturday, these steamers leave Ne\v York (Pier 4G, foot of West Tenth street, North River), at 6 in the even- ing (due in Troy at 6 A.M.). The Sunday night boat stops at Albany. The hour of saihng from Troy is 7.30 P.M. (Sundays, 6, from Albany. 7 o'clock). JOURNEY V. Between New York ©Lnd Catskill, aLi\d to a.nd from Hudson and Coxs^Lckie. by the Catskill Evening Line and the Hudson and Cox- sackie Line boasts ** Kaaterskill," "On- teorot" and "City of Hudson," leaving New York every week day night at 6 P. M., with one Sa-turday a.fternoon bodLt fron\ New York at 1.30 for Hudson only. In the number of its tourist craft the Hudson is unfailing. A wide field of selections offers itself to the traveler. One of the most important points on the river is the town of Catskill, a gate to I he mountains of the same name, and this, though to be reached in several other ways, by both water and train, has a boat trip all iis own. Steamers " Kaaterskill" and " Onteora " are the vessels of this line, and one leaves Pier 43i North River, New York, foot of Christopher street, at 6 o'clock each week day even- ing, the other casting ofif from the dock at Catskill each night at 7 o'clock. For the Water Explorer this is perhaps the most inexpensive of Hud- son River night trips. The fare between New York and Catskill is $1.00 (excursion, $1.70). Two-berth staterooms are $1.00 and $2.00, and cabin berths 25 cents, Meals aboard ON THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. Up the Hudson. 19 i PENATAQUIT-CORINTHIAN YACHT CLUB HOUSE, BAY SHORE, L. I. are 50 cents each. Those who would extend the trip and journey up into the mountains, but a short distance away from Catskill, will find trains leaving: for all points upon arrival of the boats. On this line the historic Highlands are passed about midnight. Saturdays, during the summer, a special daylight trip is made by the"Oi)teora ''from New York, leaving at 1.30 in the afternoon. Fare the same. From Ca^tskill to New York and return the same day there is a special Saturday excursion $1.00 for the round trip, leaving Catskill at 6 A. M. and New York 1.30 P. M. or 6 P. M. as preferred. Each summer Sunday night the ''Kaaterskill " makes a special trip to New York from Catskill, leaving at 10 P.M.' Fare, Si 00. In addition to this there are possible tours between New York, Hvidson and Coxsackie of an evening by steamers " Kaater- skill,'' " City of Hudson " and " Onteora " from this same pier. The fares are SI. 00 either way, Sl.70 excursion, staterooms Si. 00 or 12.00 ; cabin berths, 25 cents. From Nevv York the boats leave each week day except Saturday at 6 P. M., from Coxsackie at 3.30 P. M. and Hvidson at 6.15 P. M. Saturdays at 1.30 P. M., the "Onteora"" on her 1.30 trip from New York (described above) goes on to Hudson ; each Sunday night the "Kaaterskill," leaving Catskill at 10 P. M. for New^ York, may be taken at CoxsaLckie at 7.30 and Hudson at 9 o'clock. From Hvidson each Saturday mornint; at 5.45 the "Isabella" connects with the "Onteora" at Ca^tskill for the special Saturday excursion to New York Csee above). 20 Water Exploring. O^' JOURNEY VI. Between New York, Newburgh, Povighkeepsie OLnd Kingston, stopping at Yonkers, Highland Falls, West Point, Cold Spring, Cornwall, ^ Fishkill La^nding. Rondout, and New S HaLn\burgh, MaLrlborough, Milton, High- S la^nd. E^sopus, by the stea^niers "Honier \ Ra^msdell," "JaLmes W. Ba^ldwin," "Wil- < lian\ F. Ronver" aLnd "Newburgh," of > the Centra-l-Hxidson SteaLmboatt Co. ? With a daily line also between Albany, s Troy and Newburgh. ? A lar^e variety of pleasant rivei* excursions of little cost, both day and evening^, along the Hudson as far north as Newbvirgh or Poughkeepsie or Kingston, touching at all intermediate points, and from NewburgK to Alba^ny and Troy. Four boats ply between these points and New York, "Homer RamsdeU", " James W. Baldwin," "William F. Romer"' and "•Newburgh,"" and the Ncav York place of starting for them all is the dock at the foot of Franklin street. By a little study of the details given below a number of interesting small tours can be picked out. The fares are. New York and Newbvirgh, one way 50 cents, round trip, 75 cents : New York and Poughkeepsie 60 cents. SI. 00 ; New York and Rondout 75 cents, Sl.25 ; New York and Kingston Poirvt, roun i trip Si. 25. For the evenmg trips staterooms cost $1.00, berth in room 50 cents, berth in cabin 10 cents additional. The intermediate Hudson River points touched by these craft, though all the boats of this company do not necessarily stop at each, are : Yonkers. HigKIa^nd Fa^Ils, West Point, Cold Spring, Cornwall, FisKkill La^nding, R.ondovjt, New Ha.nrvburgh, Ma^rlborougK, Milton, HighlaLnd. £sopvis. Between New York and Newbvirgh each day, boat " Homer Ramsdell ". leaves New^ York in morning (foot of Franklin street) 9.30 A. M.. Recreation Pier. West 189th street, 10 A. M. (Sundays. 9 A. M. and 9.30 A. M.). Leaves Newburgh on return trip at 6.30 P.M. (Sundays, 5 P.M.) arriving in New York, W. 129th street, 10.30 P. M., b'ranklia street, 11.30 P. M. (Sundays, 9 P. M. and 9.30 P. M.). Stops made week days both ways, at West Point, Cold Spring. Cornw^all, Fishkill Landing. On Sundays there are Up the Hudson. 31 also stops at Yorvkers and Highland Falls. By this boat a good part of the day can be spent at West Point, lunch eaten, the grounds visited and dress parade seen, returning to New York by the down boat O'ouad trip 75 cents). Another jaunt might be to Mount Beacon (leave boat at FisKkill Landing). The Otis Incline Railway leads to the summit of the mountain. Four hours can be enjoyed here, and the return trip to New York taken. Round trip fare $1, including ascent. Between New York and New^bvirgh steamer "Newbui'gh.'''' Week days : afternoon trip from Ne^v York, early morning from Newburgh. Leaves New^ York, foot of Franklin street, 5 P.M. (Saturdays. Franklin street, 3 o'clock ; foot West One Hundred and Twenty-ninth street, 3.30), arriving at Newburgh 10 P.M. (Satur- days, 8 P.M.). Lands at Highland Falls, West Point, Cold Spring, Cornwall. Down trip, leaves NewburgK (except Sundays) 6.30 A.M., arriving in New York 10.30 A.M. Other trips between Newbvirgh and New^ York are by the " James W. Baldwin '' or " WiUiam F. Romer,'' which leave Franklin street, New^ York, week days, at 4 P.M. v Saturdays, 1 P.M.) and NewbvirgK, week days, at 9.3t) P.M. (Saturda.ys excepted). No HUMBER RIVER, NEWFOUNDLAND. 22 Water Exploring. stops. The '•William F. Romer " also ruus from NewburgK to New York on Sunday eveniugs (leaving at (5 P.M., arriving at 11.30), and comes up the river to Ne>vbvirgK each Monday morn- ing, leaving New York (Frankhn street) at 7 A.M. On Sundays the "Homer Ramsdell," on trips mentioned above, connects at Newburgh with the ''J. H. Tremper'' at 1.15 P.IM., the latter boat going on to PovigKkeepsie and Rondout. Between New York and PougKkeepsie. Week day after- noons from New York, steamer ''Newburgh." See paragraph " Between New York and Newburgh ^ in this Journey, page 21. This boat goes on from New^burgh to Poughkeepsie. The " Homer Hamsdell " connects on its Sunday trip with the " Tremper."' (See pre- ceding paragraphs). For other week day afternoon trips from New York take " James W. Baldwin'" or "William F. Romer," 4 P.M. (Saturdays, 1 P.M.) From PovigKkeepsie down the river the "Baldwin" or the •'Romer,"' each ('ay (except Saturday), 6.30 P.M.; on Sunday after- noons the " Romer,'' leaving at 4.45 P.M. (in New York at 11.30 P.M). Between New York and Kingston and Rondout— The "Rams- dell," "Baldwin" and "Romer" go on from Newbvirgh and PougKkeepsie (see above). From Rorvdout the " Baldwin " and the " Romer " leave for New York each week day (except Saturday) at 5 P.M., and the " Konier " on Sunday afternoon at 3.30 P.M. Boats of this line leave dock foot of First street, NewbvirgK, for Albany, Troy and points in between, at 7.30 A.M. each day. Special Sunday trip : From Newburgh to Kingston Point and return. Steamer "Jacob H. Tremper." Leaves Newbvirgh at 4 P.M.. returning leaves Kingston Point 6.00 P.M. JOURNEY VII. Between New York and Peekskill, An OLfternoon trip up the Hudson aLnd an early morning trip down, on the " ChrystenoLh/' North River Steamboat Co. It is the Hudson near by the metropolis, only that is sailed over on this tour. Peekskill is its terminus, a three and a half UjJ the Hudson. 23 hour journey (fare, single, 45 cents, excursion, 60 cents, and the places touched with their fares, one way and round trip, \ and their time from New York, are Yorvkers (15 and 25 cents, one hour), Dobbs Ferry (25 and 45 cents, 1)4 hours), Tarrytown (by ferry, 30 and 50 cents, 2 hours), Nyack (30 and 50 cents, 2 hours). Rocklarvd Lake (40 and 60 cents, 2)^ hours). Haverstraw (40 and 60 cents, 2% hours), Grassy Point (45 and 60 cents, 3 hours), Verplancks (45 and 60 cents, liX hours), Peekskill (45 and 60 cents, 3]4 hours). The steamer to be taken is the "Chrystenah " which leaves West 10th Street at 3.45 P. M. (Saturdays 2.30) and West 22d Street 4 P. M. (Saturdays 2.45). It returns to New York from Peekskill early each morning. An agreeable combination trip would be to leave the boat at Nya-ck, cross the Ta-ppatrv Zee, by ferry into Tarrytow^n, and trolley from Ta.rrytown through White Pla^irvs, Ma.maro- neck, Larchmorvt, New R.ocheIle and Mount Verrvorv in- to New York (see Rovite 43, "Trolley Exploring"). The cost of trolleyiug in from Tarrytowrv is 20 cents to the Harlem River, 25 cents from the New York City Hall. YACHTS OFF ATLANTIC CITY, N. J. JOUR.NEY VIII. . , York and Saugerties, boats "Saugerties" ©Lnd "Ulster," Saugerties and New York SteaLn\boat Co. A night trip. Between New Saugerties is another entrance to the Catskills, an old town lying midway between Rorvdovit and Catskill, and here mountain stage lines meet the boats and drive into the Catskills' heart. The Savigerties boats make another of the night routes of the Hudson, and they start from Pier 43, North River, foot of Christopher Street, 24 Water Ejcplorlng. New York. They run every day except Sunday, and leave both tiew York and SaLugerties at 6 o'clock in the evening. The fare is Sl.OO, round trip $1.50. The landings are Hyde Park, Ulster LaLnding, RKinecIiff, BarrytoAvrv, Tivoli. JOUR.NEY IX. New York to Croton, VerplaLAck, Peekskill. A 4 hours, 15 iT\in\ites tour in the a.fter- noon, by the Morton Line. Tliese boat.s make this shoi t run of 41 miles in 4 hours, 30 minutes, leaving the foot of Canal Street, North River, New^ York, at 2 P. M. The excursion fare is 50 cents ; single fare to Peekskill, 40 cents. This is practically a duplicate of Journey VII, except that few^er landings are made. A boat <>f this line leaves Peekskill 3 P. M. eauth daJ^ due in New York 8 o'clock. Up the Hudson, with no stops, to Ossining (the old village of Sing Sing) on the east bank. The boat " S. A. Jenks " is taken at the foot of Franklin street. New York, at 3 P.M. week days, and Ossining reached in 2J hours. A return can be made by train, or the "Jenks " taken back the following morning at 7 A.M. Fare 25 cents. Excursion 50 cents. JOURNEY X. New York to Yonkers, by the steaLmboat "Ben Frank- lin." The shortest of Hudson River journeys, and one very easily to be made. This boat, " Ben Frankhn," runs only to Yonkers, leaving New^ York (foot of Franklin street), at 3 P. M., each day (Satur- days, 2.30). The trip takes an hour and a half and costs 15 cents. It Ferrying Around New York. 25 would be a good idea to trolley back to New York from Yon- kers, by way of Mount Vernon. Boat returns to New York 8 o'clock the next morning. JOURNEY XI. New York to Yonkers, West Point and Newburgh. on Sunday only, by the ** Tolchester," in the eoLrly morning. A Sunday trip alone, a 50 cent excursion to Yonkers, West Point and New^burgh, by steamer " Tolchester.'" This boat leaves foot of North Second street, Brooklyn, at 8.15 A.M., Christo- pher street 9.15, West 22d street 9.30 ; West 129th street 10 o'clock. Returns in late afternoon and evening. Ferrying Around New York Tl HE woman and man who care for water excursioning at I its best will miss much if they leave out of their calcu- lations the ferry trips possible about New York, over the two rivers that surround Manhattan Island and on the Upper Bay. Ferrying for the pure pleasure and entertainment of it seems trivial and unimportant enough at the first thought. Upon intelligent experimenting, however, it will be foimd to have capital resources in it, and pleasure for many a morn- ing or an afternoon. When you "ferry " (in the " water exploring " sense of the word), you do not merely take a boat from somewhere across the river and return placidly upon it, or perhaps go back and forth two or thi-ee times, but you put your thinking cap on and look over a map of New York, noting its long string of ferry routes. Then you combine three or four of them, possibly even only two or three, in this way arranging a series of little cruises that may prove delightful. And 26 Water Exploring. it must not be forgotten that some of the most attractive of these ferry combinations are to be made by taking a trolley car from one ferry shp to another. Because part of the journeying has to be made on land, a httle liere and there, ttiese are none the less water trips. There are the ferries, for all New Yorkers and those visiting New York, and it must be left to these Water Explorers to choose from the almost infinite number of com- binations. But several ferry journeys may none the less be mentioned in detail by way of indica- ting and illustrating the possibilities of the small trips by water that few would think of. Ferrying about the city has three especial advantages. One is its very small cost. Two and three cents are the general ferryboat fares. In not many cases is it more than this, though there are long routes that charge ten cents. Twenty to thirty cents will provide almost limitless ferrying. A second advantage is that in no other way can the water front of New York be seen so minutely and thoroughly. In the third place those who tour New York by water in this manner, joining the ferrj- routes together by short car trips on land, get the best idea possible of what New York is, commer- cially, geographically, as to her people and her ways. New Yorkers themselves who have never water explored do not know that. SEA CLIFF, HEMPSTEAD HARBOR, L. I. JOURNEV XII. Ferry trip about New York from foot of West 23d Street. NeAV York, across to Jersey City, then by Annex to foot of Fulton Street, Brooklyn, and return. Ferrying Around New York. 27 A water journey of but a couple cf hours or so, costing about 25 cents in all. . It affords a flue view of the " Castle " (the Stevens pro- perty) on the Jersey shore, the " skyscrapers "' of Manhattan Island, the Battery, the Statue of Liberty, Governor's Island and Brooklyn Bridge. Every New Yorker and every tourist to New York should take this trip. It presents the city in a nutshell. JOURNEY XIII. Ferry trip about New York from foot of Liberty Street, North Reiver, to Communipa-w (lower Jersey City), then Annex to the Battery, (WhitehaLll Street, New York), then boaLt to St. George, Stotten Islatnd (or boa^t to Thirty-ninth Street, Brooklyn), and return. This trip is to be made at about the same cost as that above. It gives the finest views of the rivers and the Upper Bay. This latter stretch of water is toured splendidly by the Staten Island boats, and the Narrows are approached. The Staten Island hills form a supei'b picture as the boat nears them, and the way New York City grows up out of the water upon the return is no less imposing. By the Thirty-ninth Street ferry mentioned there is a capital sail along the Brookljm water front, coming very close to Governor's Island. JOURNEY XIV. Ferry trip about New York, from foot of Franklin Street, North R_iver, to Weehawken. Then trol- ley to Fourteenth Street, Hoboken, a^nd cha^nge to the Wa^shington Street car there for the Hoboken ferry, -which will carry you over from Jersey to the foot of either Ba^rclaLy or Christopher Street, North Reiver. Journey XIV is a pleasing little North, or Hudson River ferry trip, a good run up the river from down town, then a trolley ride of interest, taking perhaps half an hour— have a care to inquire and get upon the right cars — and from Hoboken, back to New York. 28 Water Exploring. The explorer will find these trips by ferry much more pleasant than he would imagine, for the reason that many of the lines have now put '•'double deckers'^ on. These boats move more slotvly than the big River and Sound steamers, but the prospect from their upper decks is very nearly as fine, and much more intimate. JOURNEY XV. Ferry trip a.bout New York from foot of Ea^st Forty Sec- ond Street. Down the Ea-st Reiver to Broa-dway, Brooklyn. From here ta.ke boat to foot of R_oosevelt Street, Ma-nha-t- tan Island, at adjoining Slip, and return. Affording au excellent water picture of the East River of New York, of Blackwell's Island, its great ciimiual colony: of the two huge Bridges, passing nuder that now being constructed; and of the famous sugar refineries, with a glimpse of the Navy Yard. Allow a little over two hours for the round trip (12 cents), returning the same way. JOURNEY XVI. Ferry trip about New York that circximnavigaLtes Manhat- ta^n Isla.nd completely and brings before the eye every portion of the w^a.ter front save the northern boundary, the narrow Harlem R.iver. While it covild be matde in aL single day by starting early it would be better to take two days for this water joxirney. For general interest and charm of scene on a clear bright day, no water trip about any city of the world is more fascinating than this. It provides for a constant change of boats, with rides in trolley cars here and there, varying the toui" splendidly. The route (which should be foUoAved closely) is as follows : Leave from foot of Fulton street. East River, New York, taking^ Fulton Ferry across to Brooklyn. The boat passes practically* under the Brooklyn Bridge. Go aboard Annex in Brooklyn (shp next to Fulton Ferry) and sail to Jersey City, passing Governor's Ferrying Around New York. 29 IsUiud, rounding the Battery, viewing the Upper Bay. At Jersey City (Pennsylvania Raih-oad), take boat to West Twenty-thira 1 Street, New York (up the Hudson). \ At West Twenty -third street the first " break " occurs. Take I'wenty-third street car or walk to Tenth avenue, thence car to Forty-second street, thence car or walk two blocks to ferry, foot of West Forty-second street. From here a ferry boat runs to Wee- ha'wken. Ti-olle3' cars will carry the traveler from WeeKaAvken to Fort Lee, where take another car down the bluff to the river side at Edgewater. This is one of the most picturesque spots about New York, .ST. JOHiN .S HARBOR, NEWFOUNDLAND. and must assuredly be appreciated. Between Edge>vater and West 130th street, Manhattan Island (just across the Hudson), a boat runs. Arriving in New York again there is a trolley run to be made across town to East Ninety-ninth street. Walk to the river from car, and embark on an excellent ferry trip through Hell Gate and into the Sound to College Point. A little over an hour's troUeying follows into Long Island City and to Astoria. Here a ferry is the next stage of the route to East Ninety-second street, New York. From East Ninety-second street take Second avenue trolley to East Forty-second street, and then follow the water route of Journey XV. Roosevelt street is but a few blocks north of Fulton street. East River, where the start was made. New York's Bea^cKes a^nd R-esorts. NEW YORK has not merely one strip of sandy soil or other pleasuring ground to boast of. Such a great metropolis would naturally have several of these points, provided its suburbs were touched by sea, bay and sound, as New York's are. And the metropolis does not disappoint in this regard. Outside of the many other water routes from it. it oflfers four or five exceedingly agreeable journeys to resorts and beaches, all by boat direct. It is recommended that, if possible, the trips in this division be made in the mornings or early afternoons, and not on Sundays or holidays. In this way all crowds can be avoided. Besides, the little journeys now to be considered are at their best just before or just after mid-day. Also a very early boat is not to be despised by tour- ing womankind. As the summer goes on this list of beach and resort journeys will probably be found not quite complete, lowards mid-summer many additional boats are likelti to be put on these waters if trajlic warrants. Supplement this chapter therefore by reference to the daily papers. JOURNEY XVII. New York to Coney IslaLnd, olII water trip, by the boats of the Iron SteacnvboaLt Co. Hourly steamers to Corvey Island, down the Upper Bay, through the NaLrrows, past Sea Gevte. An all-water route. Boats leave foot of West 22d street. North River, at 9.30, 10.45 A. M., 12.00 M., 1.00, 2.00, 3.00. 4.00, 5 00, 6.00. 7.00 P. M. and Pier (new) No. 1, North River, half an hour later. The round trip is 25 cents. On the return they leave New Iron Pier, Coney Island. 11.10 A.M.; 12.25. 1.40, 2.40, 3.40, 4.40, 5.40. 6.40, 7.40, 8.40. A very bracing bit of sea voyage for children for half a day, starting in the morn- ing. One may come back in the same boat, and from its decks the York's Beaches and Resorts. THK HUDSON, NORTH FROM WEST POINT. Island may be sufficiently seen. Or any one of a dozen pleasing trolley rides might be taken back. See Routes 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, in " Trolley Exploring." JOURNEY XVIII. New York to Rockaway Beach, mornings and after- noons, by the boats " Gra^nd R^epublic " and " Genera.1 Slocum " of the R^ocka.- wa.y Line, a^nd a suggested trip from Ca^naLrsie QlCTOss Jamaica Bay to Rock- away. A two hour trip down and two back well out into the ocean. For full service consult daily papers. This is the only all water route to Rockaway. Two boats run on this line, the " General Slocum " and the "Grand Republic." They leave West 129th Street each day at 9 A. M. ; West 20th Street at 8.40, 10.00 A. M. and 1.35 P. M.; Battery Landing 9.20, 10.40 A. M. and 2.05 P. M.; Rockaway 11 A. M.. .5.00 and fi.l5 P. M. Round trip, 50 cents. A very pleasing little ocean sail. Suggested that the return be made by trolley via Far Rockaw^ay and JaLtnaLica, thenge directly into Ridge^vpocl or E^ast New 32 Water Exploring. York and Brooklyn, or over the hill to the north and through FlvisKing into Long Island City, thence to New York. A highly pictui-esque trolley run. Time about 2 hours into Long Isl- a^nd City, fare 20 cents. See Routes 27. 28 and 30 in '* Trolley Exploring," for complete detail. It would also be an agreeable trip to journey to Ca>.narsie by trolley from the Bridge. Broadway Ferry, Brooklyn (Eafet 23d Street, New York), or Thirty-ninth St. Ferry. Brooklyn (White- hall Street, New^ York), and thence take the little steamboat across Jamaica Bay (tirst eating a fish dinner at Ca.na.rsie) over to Rockaw^ay Beach. Boat leaves Battery Landing 10.15 A. M., 12.3.5, 2.45, 5.00 and 7.20 P. M. North Beach Steamers run from foot of East 9nth Street, Sundays hourly to 1 P. M., then half hourly ; w^eek days hourly 9 A. M. to 10 P. M. Fare one way, 10 cents. JOURNEY XXI. New York to Glen IsldLnd on the Soxind, by the boasts of the StaLfin Line. This is a famous resort of interestingly laid out grounds, aquarium, museum, menagerie, etc., and many other features including fishing. It has a number of points of difference from the beach resorts, Ex- other New York Trips. 83 cursion 40 cents. The Starin Line steamers leave pier foot of Cort- laudt Street, New York. 9.00. 10.00. 11.00 A. M,; 12 M., 1.30, 2.30, 3.45, 5.15 P. M. Bridge Dock. Fulton Ferry, Brooklyn, 9.20, 10.20, 11.20 A. M.; 12.20, 1.50, 2.50, 4.00 P. M. East Thirty-second Street, New- York, 9.45, 10.45, 11.45 A. M. ; 12.45, 2.15, 3.15, 4.30, 5.45 P. M. Fre- quent boats for returning, and additional boats Sundays and holi- days. Glerv Isla>.nd is beautifully situated on the Sound, close to the famous Travers Island of t'rte New York Athletic Club. It is near the mainland on the Westchester shore, and is a mot-t pleasing family resort. Other New York Trips OR yet is the list of possible New York water trips to points very near at hand complete. Following are hints for other short tours, including boat jaunts to the fortifications of Sound and Bay, and to the fishing banks. i JOURNEY XXII. New York to P Governor's Island by U. S. Government S boa.t from foot of WKiteKa.ll Street. This short trip to be made by pass or special permission. Gov- ernor's Isla^nd. the military headquarters of the East, is a highly 34 Water Exploring. interesting: place to look over for an afternoon. The trip is so short, however, that it is barely more than a ferry. Boat runs frequently. I JOURNEY XXIII. New York to \ other fortifications of Sound and Harbor, Fort Ha.iT\ilton, Fort Wadsworth, Fort Totten (Willet's Point). Fort Schuyler, and David's Island, by U. S. Government boat from Pier 13, North Reiver. The Government boat that plies between New York and these fortifications has no stated times of making trips. These trips are irregular. It is a delightful sail, however, to any of these fortresses, and passes should be procured, if they can be, for such an excursion. David's Island is 22 miles away, Fort Hamiltorv, 8, Fort ScKviyler 13, and Fort Wadsworth 8. Fort Wadsworth is on Staten Island. Willet's Point is near Bayside, L. I., on the b'oiind. It is now known as Fort Totten. The shortest of excursions, but 15 minutes each way; excursion, 25 cents. Steamer "Bay Ridge "* leaves the Battery hourly from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. It is a little trip worth the hour it will take. JOURNEY XXV. New York (down town) up the Ea.st Reiver to As- toria, R-andaLll's &^nd Wa-rd's Isla^nds and Harlem (East 130th Street) by Steamer "Mount Morris." Boat leaves foot of Fulton street, East River, daily at 10.30 A.M. and 5.30 P.M. The fare is 10 cents, the time to Harlem (East 130th street) one hour. The "Mount Morris" reaches Astoria in 40 Little Jersey Journeys, 35 minutes and also touches Randall's and Ward's Islands, where several of the largest of the great city and county institutions are located. These are interesting to view from the steamer. JOURNEY XXVI. New York to the Fishing Banks by Steamers "An- gler," "Edmund Butler" ©Lnd "J. S. Warden," each marking da^ily trips for deep sea fishing. These three fishing hoats, each representing a difTerent line, and independent, all leave central points on the East River, Ne^v York, every morning for the accommodation of ocean fishing enthusi- asts. The fares on each boat for the day are 75 cents, women 50 cents. Meals are to be had on board and tackle. The -'Angler,'" Al. Foster's boat, starts from East Twenty-second street 7.15 A.M., Battery Landing 8.05. The '"Edmund Butler" starts from East Thirty-first street 7.30,- Battery, 8.20. The "J. S. Warden" starts from East Twenty-fourth street 7.10, Battery Land- ing 7.50. In addition to the above there is usually each summer a steamer that leaves the Battery, fiew York, and the Bridge Dock, Brook- lyn, and makes an evening trip around Staten Island. Excursion fare. 50 cents. See daily papers during the summer. Little Jersey Journeys. Two water ways of reaching New Jersey's ocean coast and river sides present themselves to the traveler of a day and less, one over New York's Lower Bay, straight out from the Narrows past Sandy Hook ; the other around to the west of StaLterv Islacr\d, through the Kill van Kvill and the ArtKur Kill, nland to the old Amboys and the Raritan River. Each direction has its own advantages and its own scenes. In 36 Water Exploring. the former, the steamer ploughs almost out into the ocean, and the sea swell is often felt a trifle. This is very nearly an "outside" trip. The latter are river journeys almost solely, and the boats keep close to land. All steam down the Upper Bay to well under the lee of Staten Island, passing the Statue of Liberty, giving the most complete of pictures of the shipping of New York, and incoming and out- going transatlantic liners. JOURNEY XXVII. New York to HighldLnd BeaLch, Sea-bright, PleaLS- \ire Bslv and Long Branch (with con- nections by trolley from Long Branch to Asbury Park and Ocea-n Grove), by the boats of the Patten Line. "Mary Pat- ten." •• Pleasure Bay." ** Little Silver." **Elberon" and "Thomas Patten," — "down the Bay," "throvigh the Narrows," " up the picturesque Shrewsbury." If a very short cruise in the open, combined with a little stretch of river tripping, be wanted this journey to Long Branch will be found one of the prizes in the category of "Water Exploring." For in a tour of two hours these boats make a run across the Upper and the Lower Bay of New York, and approaching the sand-spit where the Governmenfs gun-prov- ing grounds and station are (Sa^rvdy Hook), bear to the westward, rouctiiiig at Highland Beach, passing the Highlands of New Jer- sey and N a V e s 1 n k Lights, and then well in those famous crabbing waters, the SKre\vsb\iry River, call at Sea-bright, proceeding thereafter to Plea^SMre Bay and Long BraLr\cK. MIDDLE HADDAM, ON THE CONNECTICUT. Little Jersey Journeys. 37 The Highlands, neared across the Lower Bay, have few rivals for beauty. Long Branch is one of the most entertaining of summer places. At Long BraLnch, trolley cars may be taken to all the nearby New Jersey coast resorts, an agreeable tour of an hour or so— to West End, Hollywood, Elberon, Deewl Beach. Allen- hurst, Interlakerv, Asbury Pa^rk, Ocean Grove, Avon and Belmar. For times of starting from New York see daily papers for the day the trip is projected. In mid-summer boats run very frequently, both Sundays and week days. Piers are foot West 13th Street, North River, and Battery. Fares are : Long Branch and back, 50 cents ; Asbu.'-y Park and back, 80 cents. JOURNEY XXVIII. New York to Atlatntic Highlands, Long Branch, etc., by boasts of the Central Railroad of New Jersey (boats go to Atlantic High- la^nds only and passengers are there transferred to stea.m cars). A second "outside" trip, covering the same water territory as Journey XXVII as far as the HigKlaLnds. These boats leave the foot of Rector Street, North River, at 10.00 A. M., 1.00, 3.45. 4.30, 6.00 P. M. (Sundays, 10.00 A. M., 1.00 and 8.00 P. M.). Fares to Atlan- tic Highlands, 60 cents ; excursion, $1.00 (time, one hour and a quarter). Fares to Long Branch (from the HigKlacnds by rail), 11.00 and fl.50. JOURNEY XXIX. New York to New Brunswick. N. J., by wa-y of the Kills a^nd the R.aritan River, by steaLmer "New^ Br\insw^ick." Not very well known among tourists, but a trip that should some day be made. The "New Brunswick " leaves Pier 6, North River, at 8 P.M. (Saturdays, 2 P.M. ), and the journey is a four hour one. Boat returns to New York at 6.30 A. M. the following morning. The return can be made that night, if desired, by train. Fare, 50 cents ; excursion, 80 cents. 38 Water Exploring. The points the boat touches on its way to New^ Brunswick (the journey up the Raritan River is a delightful one) are: Lino- leumville, S. I.; Carteret, N. J., Rossville, S. I.; Tottervville, S. I.: Perth Amboy, N. J.; SoutK Amboy, N. J.; Sayreville, N.J. JOUR.NEY XXX. New York to Red Ba^nk, N. J., down the Bay a^nd on the Nacvesink River, by steamers **AI- bertina," or "Sea Bird." Three hours of water touring to New Jersey coast towns on the Lower Bay and the Navesink River to Fa>.ir Haven, Highlands, Locust Point, OceaLtiic and Red Bank. Single fares, 35 cents ; round trips, 50 cents. Steamers make the trip in the after- noon. For time tables, see the latest number of " Bullinger's Guide."" The New York starting point is foot of Frankliti Street, North River. JOUR.NEY XXXI. New York to Keyport, N. J., by steamer "Magenta." steamer leaves foot of Gansevoort Street, North River, 3.40 P. M.; Saturdays, 2.40 P. M. Pier 6, N. R., 4 P. M., Saturdays, 3 P. M. Sundays leaves Pier 6, 9.30 A. M. and 6 P. M.— a two hour trip. Fares, 30 cents single, 50 cents excursion. Return the next morn- ing, 7 A. M. from Keyport, or take back "Holmdel,'' Journey XXXII. JOURNEY XXXII. New York to Keyport, N. J., by steamer " Holnndel." The "Holmdel" leaves foot of Canal Street, North River, at 8 A. M. Returning, leaves Keyport 7 P. M. Time of journey, two hours and three-quarters. Fares, 30 cents, 50 cents. Over Long Island Sovvd Waters. 39 Touching: at Rossville and Tottenville, S. I. Leaves Pier 6, North River, 10.45 A. M. On return trip, leaves PertK Amboy 4 P. M. Time each way, three hours and three-quarters. Fares, 25 cents, 40 cents. THE PIER AT NAPLES, ME. Over Long Isldcivd Sound Walters. To New York's west and north is its Hudson; to its east its splendid Long Island Sound, bounded on the one hand by the coasts of Connecticut and Rhode Island, on the other by old sea-girt Long Island, now de- veloping with amazing stindes in public esteem. The traveler up the Sound from New York finds that its beauties begin before the last of the city has been passed. In- deed, on the Sound boats that leave New York at 6 P. M., or a little after, the first two evening hours on the water, the moments up to twihght and full darkness, show a panorama of pictures that one must needs travel far to duplicate. For the Sound, with its deeply indented shores, its scores of 40 Water Exploring bajs, coves, lieadlauds, is one of nature's masterpieces. New- Yorkers, as a whole, strangely enough, do not realize this. It is only the journeyer of wide- open eyes who sees it. Approximately, Long Island is KiO miles long, and by the time the mastodon steamers of many decks that plough these waters nightly have steamed into Fa.ll River or Provi- dervce, they have covered moie than 150 miles, or fully the distance of from New York to Albany. These are trips of a far other nature, however, fi'om almost the first moment in an inland sea; later Gardiner's Island is steam- ed past, well out in the open. For the "Water Explorer" the journeys of the Sound may be divided into two categories: those that traverse the entire Sound with no "ports of call," through boats to Rhode Island cities, to eastern Connecticut, to the ocean tip of Long Island, to Block Island ; those that are to local points on the Long Island and the Connecticut shores, and are comparatively near. The through trips are naturally the more expensive, but even these may now be made at little cost by recently established lines that compete with the older ones. The tours that may be made near to New York on the Sound are legion, and all easy on the purse strings. In some ways these little trips are more satisfying than the through journeys, for while the boats are neither so handsome, so large or so swift, they go closer to the shore and afford moi'e inti- mate views. What is lost on them, of course, is the comprehen- sive grandeur of the Sound as a whole. GATEWAY, ST. AUGUSTINE, FLA. Out from New York the actual entering the Suund is imposing. First the county and city institutions on their islands are passed, of interesting architecture. In its entire length the Sound has nothing to excel Its first twenty miles. To west and east are networks of islands, bays and points. On the left hand stretches the water front of Westchester, a shore that had much to say for itself during the Revolution. The steamers slip, at the narrowest point, between Fort Schuyler and Fort Totten (old Willet's Point), notable Over Long Island Soimcl Waters. 41 fortifications. Now tlie Soimd grows wider and opens out. A little ways beyond is David's Island, a recruiting station these days^for the Artillery. JOURNEY XXXIV. Between New York ©Lnd Greenport, Shelter Is- land ©Lnd Sacg Hatrbor (Long IslaLnd), with a^n a^dditional run to Block Island, **the island in the ocea.n." This is a. night trip over the Sound (except Sa^t- urdays — then afternoon), with the Block Isla.nd run nia.de ea.rly the next morn- ing. Also, a connecting line across the Sound from Sag Harbor and Shelter Island to New London, Conn. Boasts of the MontaLuk Steamboatt Co., steaLmers, "Shinnecock" and "City of Latwrence," and (to New London) stea.n\ers, "Man- haLnset" and "Orient." On Mondays, aL specia.1 da.y excursion trip, New^ York to Sag Harbor, returning to New York Tues- day nvorning by steatmer "Shinnecock." Many a charm lies in this water journey to the eastern end of Long Island. It may be made short or long. It may cover simply a night, with an early train taken back to the city on the following morning: or, by taking the supplementary exploring trips to Block Island and New Londorv, it may be spread over several days. The "Shiunecock" and the ''City of Lawrence" leave New York, Pier 13, East River, near Wall street, each evening at 5.80 (Saturdays at 1 P.M.). Shelter Island is reached at 3 A.M., Greenport at 4, Shelter Island Heights at 5, Southold at 5.30 and Sag Harbor at 6.15 A. M. The boat of Saturday afternoon gets to SKelter Island at 8 o'clock and Sag Harbor at 10 P M. Leaving Sa^g Ha^rbor at 8 A. M., the boat that has made the night trip through the Sound arrives at Block Isla^nd at 11 A. M. The boat that comes up Saturday afternoon gets into Block Island at 7 A.M. Sunday morning. Returning, these steamers leave Block Island at 1.15 in the afternoon (Saturdays, 3 P.M.), Sag Harbor at 5 (Saturdays, 8.30), Shelter IslaLPid Heights at 6.05 (Satur- days 9.15), Greenport at 9.30, arriving in New York at 7 A.M. Fares to Sag Harbor. $1.50; excursion, S2.50; stateroom, $1.(X). 3 43 Water Exploring. For the Monday morning sail to Se^g Ha^rbor the " Shinnecock " leaves Pier 13 at 8 A. M., reaching Sa.g Ha^rbor at 4 P. M. Return on the regular boat, getting into New York the next morning. Full fare $2.00, or returning by rail that night from either Green- port or Sag Ha.rbor, S3 00 excursion. ON PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. The steamers "Meteor,'' and '•'Orient''' plying across Pecorvic Ba^y and the Sound, between Sag Harbor and New London, stop at Greenport and Shelter Island Heights. The "Orient" leaves Sa^g Ha^rbor for New London (week days only) at 6.20 A. M. and I'i.SO P. M., arriving at New London at 9.30 A. M. and 3.30 P. M. It starts from New London for Sa^g Harbor at 10 A. M. and 4.20 P. M., arriving there at 12.05 P. M. and 7.25 P. M. The "Meteors'' time tat>le is as follows: From Ne>v Lon- don for Sa-g Ha.rbor 8 A. M. (arriving 11.40 A. M ) ; to New- London, leave Sag Harbor at 12.25 P. M., arrive 3.45. Fares are %\.Q0 one way, Si. 50 round trip ; excursion tickets limit- ed to day of sale, $1.25. Another route to Block IslaLnd, this is the speediest on record, U provided for this summer. It is half train and half water — 6 hours to Block Island— but onlj^ Saturdays (July and August). Train leaves Long Isla^nd City 1.32 P. M. (Brooklyn 1.19 P. M.), and goes through to Montauk, connecting with a steamer to Block IsIa^nd, arriving at Montacvik 4.47 : Block IsIa^nd 7.00 P. M. Over Long Island Sound Waters. 43 These trips touch at some points of notable memories. The boat u» the Sound, as it turns at Orient Point, sweeps through Plvim Gvit, a great fishing: ground. About here is a paradise for yachts- n en. But the history of these localities rises to as high a plane as do the scenic charms. Southold is one of the oldest and quaintest of Long Island villages. Shelter Island was settled by Quakers in early Colonial days— Quakers who fled from the Puritans. It has the Horsford Manor House, and on Gardiner's Isla.r\d to the east and somewhat out to sea, is the Gardiner Manor House, one of the most noted. of really old and historic American country homes. Sag Harbor was a whaling port. Block Island was originally " Manisses." Verrazzano got a glimpse of it in 1524, and Adrian Block named it after himself in 1(314. Few places can boast of such great antiquity All this region is the place of places for those w^ho would get away from the noise and toil of the city into fresh countr> . Here from Sag Harbor to Block Island is a glorious expanse of sum- mer sea. A famous seat of yachting and boating is New London. On its river Thames are frequent college regattas. About New London the yacht clubs, notably the New York Yacht Club, rendezvous. 1649 was the date of its founcling, and its earliest traditions are those of the sea. (See Jovirneys XXXVIII, XLIV and XLV.) JOURNEY XXXV. Between New York and Fa-ll Reiver and Newport, by the boatts of the Fall River Line, "Priscilla" a.nd "Puritan." Night trips. Twelve hours on Long Island Sound in some of the most palatial and vast of coastwise and inland water steamers is the story of this and the four journeys following. These flee lines of boats form the Marine District of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad, and are to day a very favorite means of taking the first stage of any journey to the East. At their landings in Rhode Island and Massa- i chur.etts they make direct train connections to all parts of New Eng- land and the Provinces. The "•Priscilla" and "Puritan" leave Pier 19, North River, New York, foot of Warren Street, at 5.30 P. M. each afternoon, arriving in Newport at 2.45 A. M. and Fa^II R.iver 5 A. M. On the west ern trip the time of leaving Fall River is 7.40 P. M. and New^port 9.15 P M., arriving in New York 7.00 A. M. Westward boat does not stop at Newport Sundays. Fares are $3.00, excursion $6.00. Staterooms $1.00 and $2.00 each and parlor rooms $5.C0 each. Meals served a la carte. Berths in cabins are furnished without extra charge. These big steamers are worth touring on, merely for the experi - 44 Walter Exploring. ence, by tbose who are not acquainted v/ith them. In the spacious saloons one is hardly conscious that he is on the water at all. Aboard them is famous pleasuring for a summers night, and the tired man and woman will find in such httle trips as these unbounded relief and comfort. For several hours after leaving New York or Fa.II River tlie traveler should stay on deck, preferably f romenachng the gr<>at length. The Sound landmarks just outside of New York have great interest. Points to be looked for are Hell Gate. Throgs Neck (on which Fort Schuyler stands). Willet's Point, City Island, th" lights of the Stepping Stones and Execution Rocks, the harbors of (Jreenwich and Stamford, the lights of Bridgepoit, the lighthouse of Stratford Point. All this Connecticut and New York shore was settled very early in colonial days (see "Trolley Exploring,") Fall River is a brisk manufacturing town, with many foreign operatives these days. From Fall River take trolley car into New Bedford. For water trip from this latter point see "Out in the Open off Massachusetts" chapter (Journey LXI). A ST. LAWRENCE BIVFR HOME. Newport as (he resort of American Fashion may well be espec- ially visited. But one thing should be remembered about Ne'w^port —it is not only fashionable It has its full meed of history. Hunt out, among other landmarks, its ohl stone tower made famous by Mr. LowgfeJlow in the "Skeleton in Armor." " Speak! speak! thou fearful guest. Who, with thy hollow breast Still in rude armor drest, Comest to daunt me." JOURNEY XXXVI. Between New York and Providence by the boats of the Providence Line, "Plymouth" a.nd "Connecticut." Night trips. See Journey XXXV. .These big steamers run' between lhe.se points every day in the week except New York to Providence Sundays, and Providence to New York Saturdays. The Sun- day night steamer from Providence will stop at Newport. Over Long Island Sound Waters. 45 Newport's rocks and her walk upon the cliff are famous through- out the world. Across from Newport is the admirable resort Jamestow^n (Conanicut Island), named in lionor of King James II of England. On this island is the Beaver Tail Light, the oldest in the country. Near by are the high rocks known as " The Dumplings.'' These Providence boats leave Pier 18 (foot of Murray Street), New York, at 6.00 P. M., and arrive at Providence 5.00 A. M. From Providence they leave at 7.45 P. M., and are due in New York 7.00 A. M Fares as in Journey XXXV. JOURNEY XXXVII. Between New York and Stonington, Conn., by the boats of the Stonington Line, "Maine" atnd •* New Ha-nxpshire." Connects to Boston. Night trips. Trains from boaLts to Narragansett Pier. See Jourrvey XXXV. Between New^ York and Stonington, a week day service only, leaving New York (foot of Spring Street. Pier 36, North River), at 6.00 P. M.; leaving Stonirvgton, west bound. 10.30 P. M., due New York, 7.00 A. M. On Saturday nights there is, however, no boat from Stonington. A Sunday night boat takes the place of this, leaving Stonington at 8.45 P. M., touching at New^ London, 9.50 P. M. Fare, $1.75 one way. Watch Hill, ranking high among New England watering places, is close to Stonington. Trains run from the boats to NaLrra^ga^nsett Pier, second only to Newport, as a resort of people of fashion. Point JuditK, noted on this coast, is but a little away. JOURNEV XXXVIII. Between New York and New London by the boats of the Norwich Line, steamers "City of Lowell" and "City of Worcester." Con- necting at New London with tra.ins for Boston. Night trips. See Journey XXXV. Boats leave New York (.Pier 36, N. R., foot of Spring Street),week days only, at 5.30 P. M., and New 46 Water Exploring. London, going west, at 11.00 P. M., arriving in New York at 7.00 A. M. Stoningtou Line boats going west touch at Ncav London Sunday nights. Fare, $1.50 one way. JOURNEY XXXIX. Between New York and New Haven by the New Ha-ven Line steamers, "Richard Peck," and others. Day a-nd night. Also a Sunday excursion on the ** R.ichard Peck " fron\ New York. Fares, $1.00 single: $1.50 excursion. Steamer leaves New York week days 3.C0P. M. (Saturday 2 P. M.) and 12.00 night; leave New Ha-ven 10.30 A. M. and 12.45 night. Sundays from New York 9.30 A. M., from New Ha^ven 3.15 P. M. Time of trip about 5 hours. Boats start from Pier 25, East River, foot of Peck Slip, New York, close to Fulton Street. The Sunday trips mentioned leave from same pier 9.30 A. M., and foot of East 31st Street 9.45. An hour in New Haven. Return com- mences at 3.00 o'clock. Home in New York at 8 P. M. Excursion SJ. New Haven and its college grounds should be visited. Several hours can be very pleasantly spent in them. Sailings from the foot of Spring Street, Pier 18, New York, 5 P. M. From Providence T.30 P. M. Fare. 50 cents. Another Une to and from Providence, leaving Ne'w^ York, Over Long Island Sound Waters. 47 Pier 35, East River, foot of Catharine Street, just above Brooklyn Bridge at 5 P. M. every week day, Providence for New York 5.30 P. M. Fares $1.00. Round trip |1.50. Staterooms f 1, $1.50, $2. JOURNEY XLII. Line over NaLrraga.nsett BslY, Providence, Fa^ll Reiver a^nd Newport. Short trips. From Providence for Tz>.ll River leave 3 P. M. Return 8 A. M. For Newport leave week days at 4 P. M, (Saturdays at 9 A. M.. Sundays at 10.00 A. M. and 8 P. M.) Return from Newport, week days 8.00 A. M.. Saturdays 5 P. M., Sundays 8.30 A. M. and 5.00 P. M. JOURNEY XLIII. Between New York a.nd New Ha.ven by Starin's Line. Night. Fares on this line 75 cents single, $1.25 excursion. Leave New York, from foot of Dey Street, daily except Saturday, 9.00 P. M. Time of leaving New Haven, 10.15 P. M. En route 6 hours. JOUR.NEY XLIV. Between New London a.nd Block IslaLnd, starting a^t Norwich, touching at Watch Hill. Through service aclso to Block Isla^nd from New York by traLin to New London and with Norwich Line steamers at New London (see Journey XXXVIII). A four hour wa-ter trip by day, by stea^nver " Block Island," New London Steamboat Con\pa.ny. Refer also to Jovirney XXXIV. This is another of the ex- tremely fine water journeys of the Atlantic coast almost out at sea. Though an independent trip and an excursion of itself, it is really a stage of a route to Block Island from New York. This steamer, "Block Island," connects at New London with 48 Water Exploring. N. Y., N. H. & Hartford train from New York and the Norwich Line boat hkewise, at New London. Fares. New York and Block Island bj' this boat and rail, S3.75 ; excursion, S6.50; by this boat and Norwich Line steamers, S2.00, ex cursion. S3.50. The "Block Island's'* trips are diiily, leaving NorwicK 8.30 A. M., New London 9.5c), arriving at Wa.tcK Hill 11.00, Block Islarvd VZ-^O (the connecting train from New York is 5.00 A. M.) Returning, leave Block Island 2.15 P. M. On Sunday NorwicK is left at 9.15 A. M., New London 10.30, arriving at Block Island 1.00 P.M. Return- ing, Block Island is left at 2.45, connecting with express train reaching New York at 9.00 P. M. WHERE LONGFELLOW WAS BORN, PORTLAND, ME. JOURNEY XLV. Between Ne%v London ^i\d Fisher's IslaLnd, by the steaLiners, "Munna-taLwket" a^nd "Islander." Little day trips, connecting with Norwich Line and Stonington Line boatts. The " Munnatawket " and the "Islander" make this small water tour on Long Island Sound's eastern end each day, leaving New IN THE ST. LAWRENCE. Lorvdon 7.30, 8.30, 10 A. M.; 1.30, 3,00, 4.15 and 6.15 P. M.; Fisher's Over Long Island Sound Waters. 49 IsIaLnd 5.50, 8.45, 10.30, 11.30 A. M.; 3.00, 5.00, 6.00 P. M. (Suudays but two trips are made. ) FisKer's Isla^rvd lies close to the Con- necticut Shore and is rather in the sound than out in the ocean. JOURNEY XLVI. Between New York aLnd Grea^t Neck, Sea Cliff, Glen Cove a.nd Glenwood, Long Island. Afternoon trip up the Sound a.nd into HempsteaLd Ha.rbor, boa^t returning the following morning. On Sa.turdaLy a^fter- noorv leaves New York a^n hour earlier, and goes back to the city the same night. Sunda-v there is bl morning sail fron\ New York, arriving in New York a^gaLin at sunset. By stea-mer "NaLnta.sket," of the Montavik Stean\boat Co. Romantic and effective in the scenes it brings before the traveler this route over the Soimd, rounding at Sa.r\ds Point on the Long Island shore into Hempsteak.d Ha.rbor is famous in the touring sense. Though but a short journey of the late afternoon it has been a standard trip for many a long year. Only on Saturdays and Sundays (the trip being made in the morn- ing on Sundays) does this boat return to New York the same day. But HempsteaLd Ha.rbor is not far from New York, and a return could be made from Sea^ Cliff by train at little cost. See description in the early pages of this chapter regarding the chief landmarks, scenically and historically, of the western end of the Sound. This steamer " Nantasket " passes close to all. Up the hill from its first landing, Grea-t Neck, a little over a mile, is La^ke Sviccess, "■ a bottomless pond'' said by scientists to be fed by subterranean streams that rise in New England and pass under the Sound. Though but little known on the part of tourists. La^ke Sviccess is a most picturesque and charming place. La- fayette, on his visit to this country 80 years ago, was driven out here from New York and feted on its shores. Hempstea.d Harbor provides an entrancing sail. At its mouth on the Sound is a famous rendezvous point of yachts, and here the New York Yacht Club holds one of its annual regattas. There is a good hotel at Glervwood to spend the night at. The ''Nantasket ''leaves New York. Pier 13, East River (near Wall Street) at 4.05 P.M., week days (Saturdays 1.80 P.M.) and East 31st Street 4.25 (Saturdays 1.45 P. M.) It touches GreaLt Neck and in HempsteaLd Ha^rbor, Sea. Cliff and Glen Cove, arriving at Glervw^ood 6.45 (Saturdays 4.25). The Saturday afternoon boat 50 Water Exploring. goes back to New York during the evening. The "• Nantasket's " trips to Ne'w York leave Glenwood 0.45 A. M. each week day, reaching New York at 9.05. Fares 35 cents, round trip 50 cents. Sunday mornings the "Nantasket " leaves Pier 13, 9.30, and East 31st Street 9.45, and returning is due in New York 6.30. P. M. Fares the same. JOURNEY XLVII. Between New York ©Lnd Bridgeport, Conn., by steamers •♦Alla.n Joy" and "Willia-nv G. Pa-yne," of the Bridgeport Steamboat Co. Morning a.nd afternoon trips from New York. Night o^nd early morning trips from Bridgeport. W«th a " side trip " a^cross the Sound from Bridgeport to Port Jefferson, L. I. R^eturn to New York, if then desired, by the Long Island R^aLilroa^d to Long Island City. Journey IXLVII offers many possibilities for tripping. Bridge- port by this line is 4 hours distant from New York. From this nearest of New England cities, there are many fine trolley rides that DIGBY, NOVA SCOTIA. Over Long Ma^id Sound Waters. 51 may be taken (see " Trolley Exploring," Connecticut and Massachusetts chapters) up the Housatonic Valley to Derby and Ansonia (a splen- did run), along the shore, either east or west, to the his- toric towns of Fairfield, Milford, Stratford, the Norwalks, Darien. New^ Haverv is but 2 hours away by the electric cars. See description of Sound in the early pages of this chapter. The boats of this line are the "Allan Joy" and the "William G. Payne." They leave Pier 31, East River (foot of Pike Slip), New York, at 11 A.M. and 3 P.M. each day except Sundays (Saturday afternoon boat leaves 2 P.M.), and foot East 31st street 3.15 P.M. (Saturdays 2.15 P.M.) The Sunday boats leave Pier 31 at 5 P.M. and foot East 31st street 5.15 P.M. Fares 50 cents. Bridgeport is left at 12 night and 7.45 A.M. (Sundays 9 A.M.) The " No-No-Wantuc " is the boat across the Sound spoken of. Leaves Bridgepert at 3 P.M., Port Jefferson (Long Island) 8.30 A.M. No Sunday trips. THE HIGHLANDS OP THE HUDSON, FROM THE UPPER DECK. JOURNEY XLVIII. Between New York a^nd NorwaLlk, Conn., by the Norwalk Line. Day trips. With ql "side tour" to Northport, Long Isla^nd, a^cross the Sound by steacmer "Huntington" each Friday. Starts from foot of Beekman Street, East River, New York, at noon and 3 P. M. See Jovirrvey XLVII. For details of boat to NortKport see Jovirney XLIX. "Rolon Point which lies on the Sound's Connecticnit shore, hut a short ways from the ^ortvatKj, *« ^/^^ destination of a good Sunday trip from JVeto yorK.' The steamer ''John Sylvester"' leaves Battery pier for this voyage, returning in the afternoon. 52 Water Exploring. Excursion fare, 50 cents. Time of departure : Battery pier, 9.10 A.M.; North Second street. "Bt ooKfyn, 9.U5 A.M.; foot of East Thirty first street 10 A.M.: foot of East 136 Ji street 10.30 A.M. JOURNEY XLIX. Between New York and Northport, Long Isla^nd. by steamer " Northport," of the North- port SteamboaLt Co. Stops at Ba-yville, "Side trip" to Norwalk, Conn. The " N. 'I'thport " leaves Pier 24, East River, Nevk^ York, foot of Beekman Street, daily 2 P. M. except Sundays. Leaves NortKport daily 6.30 A. M.. Fridays connects each way with steamer '" Hunting- ton" at Locvist Grove for Norwa-lk, Conn. Fares 75 cents-', excursion $1 25. Between BaLyville and New York, fare 60 cents, excursion SLOO. JOURNEY L. Between New York and Oyster Bay, three days a week, by stea-mer "Sa-ga-more." Day time. Lands at Lloyds Dock. Center Island. Cold Spring and Oyster BaL.y, 50 cents fare. Steamer leaves foot of Market St., New York, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at LOO P. M. Re- turns to New York, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, leavingj Oyster Ba^y at ILOO A. M. JOURNEY LI. Between New York and Huntington, L. I., by steamer "Maid of Kent," three days a. week. Afternoons. The "Maid of Kent" leaves New York (foot of Market Street), Tuesdays, Tlmrsdays and Saturdays at 2 P. M. She returns from Hvintirvgton at 12 noon Mondays and Wednesdays and on Satur- days, 6.45 A. M. Time of journey B| hours. Fare each way 50 cents. r Over Long Islcoid Sound Waters. JOURNEY LII. Between New York and MaLn\aLroneck ©Lnd New Ro- chelle, by steamer "Mary E. Gordon." Afternoons. Three days a week. 53 Tuesdays, Tlmrsaajs and Saturdays from New York, fool of Clinton Street, at noon. 11 A. 31. from Ma.maL.ror\eck, 12 noon from New Rochelle, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Fares, one way. 25"eents. r>eaves New^ York, foot of Market street, fare 35 cents each way, 2 P. 31. iMondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Return Tuesdays, Thurs'Jays and .Saturdays, leaving Portchester 2 P. M., a 3 hour Sound joui-ney. < JOURNEY LIV. Between \ S New York a^nd StoLmford, Conn., by C } stea-mer "Shady Side." Ea.ch week-day i S aLfternoon. ? A pleasant afternoon water run of 3 hours from Peck Shp (East River), New York, at 2.55 P. M.. Saturdays 2.30 P. 31.. 35 cents fare. Stops at East 31st street 3.10. Saturdays half an hour earlier. Leaves StaLimford 7 A.M. the next morning. A fine passenger service and an excellent water route established this season to and from thi>- noted fashionable resort on the Sound. The "General Putnam" will leave New^ York from foot Market Street, North River, and the East 31st Street Pier. 54 Water Exploring. JACKSON SQUARE. SAVANNAH, GA. On tbe €onnecticui JOURNEY LVI. Between New York and HaLrtford, Conn., up the Sound a^nd the Connecticut R.iver, stopping a.t internxedidLte landings, by the boaLts of the HaLrtford Line, "Hartford" a^nd " Middletown." A night trip. (No boasts Sundays). SAILING eastward, this journey gives the Sound splen- didly by sunset and early evening, and for morning risers betimes the very beautiful Conrvecticvit River. Touring westward, it presents the Connecti- cut by late afternoon and in the early hours of the night, and Long Island Sound near New York at sunrise. Not many better trips scenicaUy are to be found. This leads up into Southern New England's heart. And the Connecticut should be traversed by those who would be wise in water exploring, from its point of exit into the Sound at Sak.ybrook Point past On the Connecticut. 55 iNLyme and Deep River, Goodspeeds and Middle Ha^d- da^rn, Middletown, South Gla-storibviry and Glastorv- hviry, up to that most entrancing of New England cities, Hart- ford, itself. I Nor is it only the water journey alone. Hartford and its sur- rounding country is a superb pleasure ground. This is the way this trip should be made for east bound journeyers. Those touring west will, with judgment, spend a daj' in sight seeing in "Sew York, and return by the same boat the following night. The steamers of the line "Hartford" and "Middletown" leave their piers (Pier 24, East River, New York), at 5 o'clock. One way fare is $1.50: round trip (good for 6 days), S3.25. Stateroom each way is Si. Meals 50 cents each or a la carte. The Cocneeticut river is entered at midnight, Middleto^vn reached 4.45 A.M., Hartford 7 A.M. If application is made in person or by letter several days in advance, staterooms can be booked for this round trip from either Ne'w York or Hartford. For two people the total cost w ould be $6.50, exclusive of meals, and this would be the traLsportation and lodging bill for two nights an a day. On reaching Hartford there is a long and delightful day before the traveler until the boat starts back at 5 P.M. Hartford is a fine city for sight-seeing, and there are trolley trips for miles aroimd A day of days can be spent in this manner. Some of the points to be reached by trolley are New^ Britain;.; Lake Compounce, Meriderv, Manchester, Farmingtorv, and one of the most beautiful in the entire country, into Spring- field. Mass., along the valley of the Connecticut. But each and every one of these trips is admirable. For full details of them, see " Trolley Exploring." Connecticut and Massachusetts chapter, and buy also for very complete particulars a most valuable little handbo'^k, "Trolley Trips Through Southern New England,'" by White & Warner of Hartford. Travelers from the east can use the steamer as a hotel while in New York in the same way. This reduces expenses to a very low point. There is an even more attractive por.sibility, however. The Saturday night steamers either way (not running Sundays) stay at iheir pier in both Hartford and New York Sunday morning to Monday night. This allows fcr two days of excursioning and three nights aboard the boat. Passengers on the; e excursions can leave their baggage in the staterooms over these trips. Special " Saturday night excursion ■" rates are made for this : One fare, with stateroom thi-ee nights $4 DO Two fares, w ith same stateroom three nights 6 50 Three fares, with same stateroom three nights B 25 Water Exploring. Cong Island's Great South Bay. JOURNEY LVII. Between Point Lookout, Long BeaLch, and Free- port (Long IslaLnd). Short trips over the Grea.t South BaLy. Boats of the Long BeaLch TraLnsportatlion Co. VER the waters of the Great South Bay, from Free- i ^ port to Long BeaLcK, nil e round nips. Fare both ^^J ways, 25 cents. A deciJedly pleasant sail over to the ocean. At Long Bea>.cK the Long Island Railroad may be taken ; at Fi-eeport the railroad, and the new trolley system to HempsteaLd, GeLrden City and Mineola as well. This outlmes a part boat, part trolley and part steam .iourney that might well be taken. The Great South Bay is a stretch of water ON THE GREAT LAKES. that should be seen. Boats leave Freeport 9.30 A.M., 11.30 A. M., 1.00 P. M., 2.15 P. M., 3.30 P. M., 4.30 P. M.. 7.00 P. M., and 8.15 P. M., and returning, leave Point Lookout 7.30 A, M., 10.41 A. M., 12.10 P, M., Tours by Canal Boat. 57 ^.tlP. M.,3.20 P.M., 4.50 P. M., 5.45 P.M., 9.30, and 10.15 P.M. l^andings at Hempstead Bay Yacht Club, Denton's and Prospect Gun CI 'lb. In addition to this, the steamer "Marie " runs across the Bay from Freeport to Long Beach via Woodcleft Canal. A second water jnunt across the Great South Bay over very famous fishinj? and sailing grounds. See Jovirney LVII. The boats on this route ply between Ba-bylorv and Fire Island, three round trips a day. They leave Babylon dock at 10.00 A.M.. 3.00 P. M. and 6.15 P. M., returning. Fire Island at 6.30 A. M., 1.00 P. 3r., and 4,20 P. M., Stops are made at the Wa-Wa-Wanda Club House and at Havemeyer Point. Excursion fare, 50 cents. At Babylon connections are made with the Long Island Railroad trains, via Babylon Street Railroad. Cours by Canal Boat. FSPITF. ilie progress in steam and electricity, and not- J^m withstanding the success of the monster river, lake and ^^ coastwise boats that are becoming larger and more swift every year, one craft of the old time continues— the pro- saic canal boat, that moves at a snail's pace and goes by nmle power. Probably the canal boat, measurpd by the statistics of commerce, has lost greatly this past quarter of a century. Yet it is still active in the freighting world, and, what is of more point here, it provides a vehicle for water excursioning novel to most people. Nothing better can be imagined, however, than a canal boat tour. If a party of congenial men and women, say six to ten, have three 58 Water Exploring. or foui- weeks to spare, they will find the dolce far niente of catialing the most pleasaut sort of life. It is not exciting, it does not matca the ga.veties of a summer hotel, or the "company'' of a Sound or Lake steamer, but it is restful and those who have tried it say it is capital sport. First, catch your canal boat, though. This is essential, and it is said in all seriousness. A canal boat suitable for touring cannot be picked up on the jumi). The securing of one may be a matter of weeks, and it may not be gotten at all. The best way to set about it is to write to the canal companies. It is quite possible that they can suggest owners who would be willing to rent. An average and fair price for a boat is $9.90 to $10.00 a day for three \\eeks or more. A party of seven, who made a trip of this length over the Delaware and Hudson Canal, and whose accounts were seen by the writer, spent $385.00 in all, or $55.00 each. They went in the proper style that should be suggested for comfort ; they liad the hold of their boat cleaned and whitewashed and partitioned off into four apartments, they carried along a cook and a waitress and they hired furniture and matting. Frequently they would tele- phone ahead for a carriage to meet them at the next town, and leav- ing the boat there drive for several hours, picking up their craft at an agreed upon point some miles further on. There are several convenient canals on whose waters such aa ex- periment might be tried : the Delaware and Hudson (from Rondout to Honesdale, Pa.. 108 miles), extremely picturesque; the Erie which, however, has many bare stretches ; the Morris and Essex ; the Rar- itan and the Champlain Canal. k Out in the Open Off Massa cKusetts. FTER Block Island is left astern the sea begins, and A the outline of Rhode Island coast, as the wide mouth of Narragansett Bay sJips by for the tourist who is to round Cape Cod, becomes Massachusetts shore. Up to this time the course has lain through a Sound diversified, with some approach to inland scenes. Now a long, flat line of beach takes its place, and to the north a broad stretch of water opens up. This is Bvizzard's Bay* and but a little later the steamer enters Vineyard Sound, passing East Chops. Cross Rips Lightship, Sankaty Head and Monomoy Island, into the "Slue of Pol" lock Rips."" The extreme point of Massachusetts, Barns- table, is being rounded, and it is the Atlantic itself the coast liner is cruising over, the open off Cape Cod, wit i Province- town but a ff-w miles to the north. Around Cape Cod is the route to Bostorv, and just at this point it is that the most mteresting sti-etch of that 24- hour sail is met with, seen in the early morning out from New York, or at eventide from Boston. Cape Cod, whose line of beach spreads before the water tourist -'as he sails, as he sails," as once did Captain Kidd, occupies a vital page in Massachusetts history. There are those who say the Norsemen fell upon it in their voyaging 900 years a«o. Whether this be accurate or no, it is certain at all events that almost as soon as the Pilgrmis came to Plymouth, Cape Cod was settled, and that Provincetown dates back many a long year. •'The Right Arm of the Commonwealth.'' it has been called, and the name has not been inappropriate. But Cape Cod is no longer what it was. From Woods Hole, the noted scientific research THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT, WASHINGTON, D. C. 60 Water Evploring. station of the United States Fisli Commission, j>ast Hya^rvrvis aud ChvaLtKaLin. up to Ra^ce Poirvt LigKt, its old life and its odd f haracters are slowly going, and it is becoming a vast new colony of summer homes of wealthy men. Yet a hint of the quaintness does yet linger as Ya.rmoutK. the Trviros and Provincetown will testify. Note. — There are several steamers and liners pass- ing to and fro out in the open here ivho have not a place, properly, in this chapter. They will all be found noted elseichere. But since they may be looked for under this heading it may be useful to refer them to the chapter wherein each has been set. Steamers "'North Star'' and "Horatio H'dl,"" Maine Steamship Company, Neiv York to Portland — ''T/ie Maine Coast.'" Steamers of the Boston and Philadelphia Steam- ship Co., Boston to Philadelphia— ''Coastwise South- ward.'' Steamers of the Merchants and Miners' Trans- portation Co., between Boston, Providence, Phila- delphia, Baltimore, Norfolk, etc —"■Coastwise South- vmrdy JOUR.NEY LIX. Between New York and Boston. SteaLmers of the Ocea^n Steamship Co. One saLiling a week from each port. Lea.ve late in the a^fternoon from New York. An outside trip a^l! the way. A steamer of this line sails from New York each Saturday after- noon at 4 o'clock (foot of Spring street, N. R. ), and from Boston each Wednesday noon. Fare, S5 each way. Time of passage. 24 hours. These steamers do not go through the Sound but at once make for the ocean and sail around Long Island. JOUR.NEY LX. Between New York a^nd Boston by stea-mer **01d Dominion" of the Joy Line, pa.ssing through the Sound a-t night and aground Cape Cod the follo\ving morning. Two satilings ea-ch week. Pier 35, East River, foot of Catharine street, is the New York starting point of this line, and Atlas Stores wharf, 308 Congress Out in the Open Off Massachusetts 61 street, that for Boston. The steamer "Old Doiniuiou " runs between the two, leaving^ New York, Saturdays at 5 P.M., Boston Wednesdays at the same hour. In addition, this summer, a mid-week boat has been put on. The Joy Line has also a New York-Providence route, eon nectin^ by train to Boston (see Journey XLI). The fares by the direct steamer to Bostorv which lays its course up the Sound and thence past Martha's Vineyard and around Cape Cod are : One way, including berth in a stateroom $3 00 Round trip, including berth in a stattroom 5 50 One way, including berth in a stateroom and meals en route. . . 4 50 Round trip, including berth in a staterciora and meals en route. . 8 50 JOURNEY LXI. Betweeiv New Bedford. Woods Hole. Vineyard Haven. Cotta^ge City and Edgartown (Ma^rthaL's Vineyatrd), and Na^ntucket. by the stea-mers of the New Bedford. Matrthat's Vineyard and Na-ntucket SteamboaLt Co. Datylight trips. By Fall River boats to Fall River (Journey XXXV), then by train or trolley to New Bedford. This tour among the islands and through the waterways of the Southern Massachu- setts coast makes a perfect extension of a Sound journey by night. These two quaint islands of the ocean are reached in a four-hour sail from New^ Bedford by day. The course lies over Buz- zard's Bay. and thence through the Elizabeth Isl- ands, past Woods Hole into Vineyard Sound. No spots on the Atlantic Coast are moi-e delightful than Martha's Vif\eya.rd and Na.ntucket. none have more history of the old times. The traditions must be taken for what they are worth, and the present editor will certainly not attempt to indorse them, but it is said that these islands were discovered in the year 1602 by Bartholomew Gosnold, seaman. AT MURRAY BAY. ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 62 Water Erploring. Cotta^ge City and Edga^rtown are the important settlements of Martha's Vineyard, 'Sconset, the town of Nan- tucket. As might be expected, from their location on the tip end of civilization, the waters about these islands are " harbors of refuge," and ' ports of call." Na.n- tvicket was, many a long year since, among the greatest of whaling centres— and it must not be fo: gotten to put "New Bedford high up in the same category. Within the range of a few miles some of the best fishing grounds of America, notably those where the blueflsh lurks off Edgarto'wn, are to be found. And when he comes to Na.nt\jcket, at the end of this sail, and catches the charm of that little land (which he does at once) your Water Explorer is no true one if he does not somehow steal a day and spend it following up the history, walking over the ground that once belonged to New York. In a little booklet, sent free by the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad, on receipt of postage (2 cents), there is included a historical map of Nantucket. It should be sent for by those who will explore in this direction. A LAKE STEAMER S ' PARLOR EN SUITE. ^ JOURNEY LXII. Between S Boston and Gloucester, the fa.mous ? "North Shore route," by the steamers i of the Boston and Gloucester SteaLmboat ^ Co. Daylight trips. Steaming out of Boston to the north there is much to be seen. This route leads to the noted fisherman's town of Gloxicester. about which Elizabeth Stuart Phelps-Ward has written so often and so charmingly, a city of fishing-bank dj-amas. Passed on the way are Revere BeaLcK, NaKant, Swampscott (with its splendid stretches of beach), MarbleheeiLd, Salenn, Beverly, Ma^ncKester and Magnolia. Marblehead is no less renowned in the fishing way, and all this coast is a superb one. Glouces- ter is on Cape Ann. These steamers leave North Side, Central Wharf, Boston, daily (except Sundays) at 2 P.M. They return from Gloucester daily (except Sundays) at 3 A M. One way fare is 50 cents: excursion, 75 cents. It is suggested, however, that the return be made by trolley from Glovicester into Boston the following morning in- stead, an exceedingly fine trip. Out in the Open Off Massachusetts. 63 \ J01 JOURNEY LXIII. Between < Boston and Na^haLnt— a. short North 5 Shore trip by the boats of the Bsilss ^ Point Line. Nahant, but a shoit distance from Lynn, is one of the most famous of Boston's pleasure resorts, and is an admirable strip of beach. It is reached bj' the steamers of the Bass Point Line, leaving Lincoln's Wharf. Boston, P.30 A.M.. 12 M., 2.20. 5.00, 7.20 P.M. Sundays, 9 A.:\I., 5.00 and ?.20 P.M. Fares, 25 cents; excursion, 50 cents. JOURNEY LXIV. Between Boston and NaLntatsket Beach, a trip to the South Shore by the boacts of the Nantasket Beach Steamboat Com- paLny, ** Nantatsket," "Myles Statndish," "Mayflower," "Gov. Andrew," ** Gen. Lincoln." Many datily trips. Over Bostor\ waters of the South Shore, affording: a specially fine view of Boston Harbor. There are passed Fort Independence and Fort Winthrop, and beyond the steamers ply through Presi- dent Roads, a broad channel. Belovr this is Fort Warren. Not far awaj is Boston Light, and soon after comes Hull. The boats run to Penrvberton and thence there is a rail ride down the beach into Na^ntasket. or Nantasket may be journeyed to all the way by boat. Nantasket Beach is four miles long and of excellent quality. Lying upon a point of land it has two shores, a strip of ocean and a strip of inland coast. It is under the jurisdiction of the Metropolitan Park Commissioners of Boston. Connections are madf' from here to the old towns of Hirvgham, Cohasset, Scituate, Mansfield. Dvixbvjry and Plymoxith. This is the region of Massachusetts that is, perhaps, fullest of history. Plymovith is the heart of Pilgrim land. These boats leave Rowe's Wharf, Boston, hourly during the summer. Water Exploring. MONTAUK POINT. Courtesy of H. B. Puller ton JOURNEY LXV. Between Boston a^nd Plymouth. A round trip da-ily. A day's pilgrimage of iiuportance. The steamer goes down through Boston Harbor and along the South Shore. Hosts of historic objects are to be seen— Plymouth Rock, Pilgrim Hall, the Court House, the National Monument, Burial Hill. Boat leaves tbel^v harf of the Bay Line on "Atlantic avenue, Bos- TJte Maine Coast. 65 ton, and during the sail is at times very nearly out of sight of land. Provincetown is very quaint. An hour or so time is given to view it. This tour is over Massachusetts Bay waters. -^m^ The Maine Coa^st. MERICAN Society, whatever else may be said about it, A has unbounded wisdom in one especial regard. Unerr- ingly it picks out for its country seats the most beauti- ful spots on each coast line. So thoroughly- has fashion done this for a quarter of a century past, that it is now the hall mark of a region to have society patronize it and own acres there. And fashion has long loved the Maine Coast. It is little wonder, when all its beauties are taken into account, when one comes to remember Mount Desert and NortKea-st HaLrbor, Ba^r Harbor and SoutKwest Harbor, Ma^cKia^s, Eastport and Calais, Belfast and Castine and the Penobscot and Kennebec Rivers, to say nothing of PortlaLnd, Cblsco BaLV and further away Vinal Haven, Altogether, this is eminently a " Water Exploring ■" land, a coast of extraordinary possibilities of many a little tour. Generally speaking, the starting point of all these trips is either Boston or PortlaLnd. Either can be reached by rail. But, more to the point, a royal water road leads around Massachusetts, straight from New York, aboard the " Horatio Hall" and the "North Star," of the Maine Steamship Co. 66 Water Exploring. \ JOUR.NEY LXVII. Between ) New York atrid Portla.nd, Ma.ii\e, by the < stea.mers of the Macine SteaLinship Co., 5 "North Star" and "Horatio Hall," going < eacstward, the Sound by night, the Mas- sa^chusetts a^nd Maine coatsts by da.y : going westward, the coa.sts by dacy. Long Islatnd Sound Into these 20 hours are crowded so maoy pictures marine, such a varied and unfailing programme of them, served up fresh with the salt sea, if a descriptive bull may be allowed, that this trip has quite an un- common interest for summer days and nights. It is a three fold trip, to put it briefly. It com- bines Sound and Massa- chusetts coast jouraeys, giving all they give, and to these it adds on, after Ca^pe Cod is past, and thvj ocean in front of Ca>.pe Ann and the ever Boon Island, the A GREAT BOAT OF THE GREAT LAKES. Boston HaLrbor is steamed over. famous and delightful Isles of Shoa^ls picturesque Ca^pe ElizaLbeth and the Bag Light on the break water that guards the entrance into PortlaLnd. Portland begins the Maine of the Explorer. Literally scores of water trips open up from it. There are islands, islands, islands to the east to where the provinces begin, channels, channels, channels to thread between them. At Portland's feet stretches out the very fine Casco Bay. The city itself is one of the most attractive of American centres. It has much more than a foot note in American literature. The house that Longfellow was boi-n in, the house where he lived and wrote are shown with much pride. Here also lived, for many a year, Neal Dow, the temperance reformer. The "North Star" and the "Horatio Hall" leave New York (foot of Pike Street, Pier 32, East River, direct for Portland), on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 5 P. M. Returning, they leave Franklin Wharf, Portland, direct for New^ York, on the The Maine Coast. 67 same days of the week, at 6.30 P. M. The fares are $5.00 one waj% .Sl»..rbor, it does not keep measurably close to the much indented Maine coast as do the others, but strikes boldly out into the open, almost as the eagle would fly, for EdLStport. This Maine city is on the extreme northeastern The Maine Coast. 69 borderland of the United States, as far Down East as one can travel Beyond Ea^stport are the Provinces— the Maritime Provinces as they are commonly ?poken of, with the peninsula of Nova Scotia already to the south and New Brunswick joining on to Maine, the Ba^y of Fvindy, a wide arm of the sea, in between these two British possessions. Eastport is at the commencement of the Bay of Fvindy, and opposite Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, with Grand Manan Isla>.nd ', and PaLSsamaqvioddy Bay facing it. Beyond Eastport, and i now through British waters the steamers make their way to St. I John New Brunswick's seaport. At Eastport connections are I made to Calais, Campobello, St. Andrews and other i fascinating re-sorts on this borderland, and from St. John a j steamer ploughs its way across the Bay of Fundy to Digby, Nova Scotia. From there it is a lone journey neitlier lo Yarmouth I or to HaLlifa^x in this " Land of Evangeline,'" old " Acadie." I But this will be touched upon in the chapter on the '•Maritime Provinces" fohowing (which see). There are more direct (though perhaps no plea-^anter) routes than the present one to reach "Evan- gehne's Laud." This route from Boston and Portland leaves Boston (Com- mercia-I WKa^rf ). at 8.15 in the morning, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. The steamers leave St. JoKn on the same days of tne week, r.3o A. M. The fares are on the following basis: To Ea^stport from Boston, S4.25 one way, $8.00 excursion ; to Cal- a^is $5.00, S9.00 ; to St. JoKn, N. B. S5.00, $9.00. Staterooms. $1.00 ; dinners, 75 cents ; breakfasts and suppers, 50 cents. JOURNEY LXXI. Between Boston and Augusta, Maine, touching at PophoLm Bea^ch, Ba^th, Hallowell, etc. Coasting to Ba-th and then up the Kenne- bec to Augusta, bv the steatniers oi the Kennebec and Boothbay Divisions of the EaLstern Steamship Co. (formerly the Kennebec Steamboat Co.) De^ily, except Sunda^v, with Ql "side trip" from Pop» ha.n\ Beach to Boothba^y H» rbor. Boats satil from Boston in evenii\^s (thus aLf- fording a^ night "outside" trip and a^n eatrly morning river trip), aLnd from Augusta an hour after noon. 70 Water Evploring. More especial Jy a Kennebec River journey, since the coasting part of the tour is made at night. The start to tlie eastward is made from Union Wharf, Boston, each week day after- noon at 6 o'cloclv. On the return AvigustOL is left at 1 P. M. The voyage up the Kennebec River is an admirable one, and f> hours .in length. The river comn:ences at Ba^th, and has a fine approach. Avigusta is an interesting town. From the lauding at Popham Bea^cK a connecting steamer, stopping at many little places, runs to BootKba^y Harbor, makmg two trips a day. On its backward trip it leaves Boothba.y, a quaint coast town, at 7.15 A.M. and 2.30 P. M. Just this portion of Maine is not fashionable, but it should b*' toured to — perhaps for that very reason. CLIFFS AT NEWPORT, R. I. JOURNEY LXXII. Between PortleLnd a^nd Boothbay, by the boatts of the Portla-nd a^nd Boothbay Steamboat Co. Da>y trips. Three da^ys a week each wacy. Leav,,- PortIa.nd Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 7 A. M., leave Ea^st Boothbay Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridajs. An all day (rip each way across the coast. Stops made at Boothba-y Harbor, Squirrel Isla^nd. Heron Island, and South Bris- tol. JOUR.NEY LXXIII. Between Portland and R^ockland, by the PortlaLnd aLnd Rockla^nd Stea.mboaLt Line. Three days a week. Da-y trips. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays are the sailing days of this coast line, and the hour of starting from Portland is TA.M. These steamers ply along the coast, touching at Sqviirrel Isla^nd, Boothbay Harbor, New Harbor, Rovind Pond, Friend- sKip and Port Clyde. The Maine Coast JOURNEY LXXIV. Between BaLngor and Bslf HaLrbor. An adl-day trip, by the boats of the Bangor and Ba^r Ha^rbor Steanvboa^t Co. Three da^ys a^ week, touching act aLlI points along the Penobscot, on the coast a^nd on Mount Desert Island. See Journey LXIX. This is a local line that gives, nevertheless, a pleasing sail. The majority of travelers prefer, however, to take a more direct water route, as, say. Journey LXXV.. or to go by train to Mount Desert Ferry, and embark on the boats that run directly across French- man's Bay, calling at Sorrento. The journey here is a slow one, ten hours in length. Its time table gives its course preciselj' : Steamers leave Ban- gor for Bar Harbor, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 7.3C A.M., touching at Hampden, Winterport, Bucksport, Sandy Point and Castiue, 11.00; Islesboro, 11.30 A.M.; Deer Isle. 1.00; Sedgwick, 1.3'J ; Ba.ss Harbor, 3.00; S. W. Harbor, 4.00; N. E. Harbor, 4.15; Seal Harbor, 4.30 ; arriving in Bar Harbor at 5.30 P.M. Returning, leave Bar Harbor Mondays, Wednesdaj's and Fridays, at 7.00 ;a.M., touching at all landings, arriving in Bangor at 5.00 P.M. JOUR.NEY LXXV.. Between Portlacnd. Ca^stine, Bar Harbor, Mount Desert ak.nd Machias, touching at R^ock- laLnd, Sedgwick and other plak.ces. By steamer "Frank Jones," of the Portland, Mount Desert and Ma-chia^s Steamboat Co. Two trips a week, ea^ch 21 hours in length. Lea^ves Portland an hour before n\idnight, touring the coa.st ea^st of Rock- land by datylight. Said to be the pioneer "inside line" of the Maine coast. From this boat the best possible picture of aquatic Eastern Maine is set before the Inquisitive Water Explorer's eyes. "The "Jones" leaves Portland, eastward bound, at 11 o'clock at nijjht Ccon- Wcder ErpJoring. PURCELL S COVE. NEAR HALIFAX, N. S. necting with train pulling^ out of Boston four houis previously). She reaches Rockland about daybreak the next morning, and thus for one whole (\ay and earlv evening of fifteen hours. Machias- port being steamed up to at 8.00 P.M., tourists have spread before them the Maine coast that is most renowned. For this is fashionable Maine, and the ''Jones" goes close to the shore in all her progress. She makes stops at Islesboro, Castirve (across Penobscot Bay from Rockla-nd, one of the very oldest of watering places), at Little Deer Isle and Herricks (where the landings are made by small boats that come out to meet the steamer) at Sedgwick (after crossing Eggemoggin Reach) at Brookline, and then oil Mourvt Desert, Sovithwest Harbor (11.50 A.M.), Northeast Ha^rbor, Bar Harbor (passing Seal Harbor and coming into Frenchman's Bay), Millbridge (past Petit Manarv) and Jonesport. The entire ocean side of Movint Desert is rounded on this trip, and its mountains and coves neared to a charm. The "Jones" leaves PortIa.nd Tuesday and Friday nights, and ^ Mat-cKiasport Monday and Thursday mornings at 4 o'clock. This brings the steamer to Bak.r Ha^rbor on its westward trip at 9.50 A.M., and makes it arrive in Portla-nd at midnight. The fares are: The Maine Coast. 73 between Portla.rvd and Rocklacrvd. oneway, $1.25; round trip. $2.50 ; Portla^nd and Ca^stirve, $2 00, $4.00 ; Portla^nd and Bar Harbor, $3.25, $6.00 ; Portla^nd and Ma^chiasport, $3.75 $7.00. JOURNEY LXXVI. Between Catlacis atnd EaLStport, touching a^t St. Andrews, by steamer "Jeanette," Fron- tier Steamboat Co. A short day run on the Maine — Provinces boundary. Steamer starts from CaLla^is each morning, except Sunday ; leaves Ea^stport returning to Calais about noon. Ferry connection at Eastport with Campobello. JOURNEY LXXVII. Between Portland a.nd the iT\a.ny little islands of Ca.sco Baty. Stea-mers "Pilgrim," "Forest Queen," "Emita.," "El Doro^do," of the Casco Bacy Steamboat Co. Boats every hour or so for many different points. A variety of short tours for parts of a day out of Portland. Small trips by excursion boats, but over famously beautiful waters. Casco BslV stretches out to the northeast of Portland Harbor. JOURNEY LXXVIII. Between Portland and Harpswell, Orr's Island and Cacsco Bay Islands in Casco BaLy. A short special trip from Portland to these points. Orr's Island is the scene of Harriet Beecher Stowe's "Pearl of Orr' Island •' and of Whittier's " The Dead Ship of Harpswell." It is 2: miles from Portland. 74 Water Exploring. JOURNEY LXXIX. Between Vina! Haven and other islands on the ocean side of Penobscot Bay and Rock- la^nd on the main shore. i^ The lines craft are '"Governor Bodwell" and " Vinal Haven. Several trips a day (except Sundays) between the points mentioned Vina.1 Haven lies well out in the ocean. These boats tour t( Swan's Island, which is almost as far east as Mount Desert. JOURNEY LXXX. Over SebaLgo La^ke, Songo Reiver a^nd the Bay of Naples, by the steamers "Hawthorne" atnd *• Longfellow," of the SebaLgo L,aLke, Songo Reiver a^nd BblV of Nappies Steam- boa^t Co. An inla^nd waLterwa^y trip of Maine of 5H hours' dura^tion. Sebago Lake's lower end where this steamboat is boarded is approached from Portland hy rail; only a short run, however The way up the Lake and through the Songo River into the fam ous Bay of Naples is extremely beautiful. Cbe maritime Provinces. UTTING out from YaLrmoutK, Nova Scotia, and St. JoKn, New Brunswick, to the west, to St. Johns on the farthest point of the island of Newfo'jndland to the east, these lauds and waters of England's Kmg and his Colonial Premiers provide magnificent voyages for the well seasoned tourist who has some time at his command. The Maritime Provinces are wide extending, if they are but a naiTow strip of shore out in the sea, bejond the east of the substantial thousands of square miles of the United States. IN RICHMOND, VA. nder and lone, they are cut up by the ocean as if for the express jleasure of the traveler. To any one who has ever journeyed vithin their watery, cool, scenically captivating bounds, their charm Joes not need explaining. All have been knit firmly together by water routes. In their life— 'O much of their territory is shore and headland— sea. sound, bay ind channel play important parts. Nor are these lines merely between these islands and peninsulas themselves. Substattial entacles stretch out to big ports of the outer world. A line comes ip from New York, two others from Boston, a local line from Wafer E.rploring. Malue has its course over the frontier into New Brunswick, and from Montrea-I and from Qxjebec steamers sail down the Gulf of St. La-wrence to Prince Edward Island, Cape Breton Island and Newfoundland. Refer to '''St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes'"' Chapter ( following this) at its commencement for details of these lines from Canada that make trips to the Provinces, the Quebec Steamship Co. to Que- bec and Montreal, the Black Diamond Steamship Co. to Montreal. For steamer that goes to Si. John, Neiv Bruns- icick, see Journey LXX. in Chapter ''The Maine Coast.''' A combination water and railroad tour that may be suggested, the railroad journeys simply short connecting runs from seaport to seaport., is: The Dominion .Atlantic Railway Company's steam- er "Prince Rupert"" across the Bay of Fundy from St. John to Digby, N. S., a distance of k5 miles, cov- ered in two hours. Dominion Atlantic E.rpress train to Halifax. The route to Halifax affords an opportunity to view the fortifications at Annapolis and (he ancient Acadian village of Grand Pre, the home of Evangeline. Thence Intercolonial Rail- way to Pictou. Charlottetoivn Steam Navigation Company to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Lland, Prince Edward Island Railway to Summerside, P. E. I. Charlottetown Steam Navigation Cvrence River and on the Grea.t La>.kes where the routes are long and the journeys not dissimilar in character to voyages across the At- lantic they have originated a new type of steamer. Particulai'ly is this so on the Great La^kes where the " through boats " that run at express speed, have to be able to stand waves that are high and dangerous, weather that is capricious and often severe, La^ke Superior is an ocean in a fury at times, the other lakes of the western tier scarcely less. These conditions have bi'ought about new ideas. Thus it happens that a " Lake Steamer" is upon these waters, a cruiser that could break many a record, like nothing else afloat in the world. A few years ago the pleasure shipping of River and Lakes could have been dismissed in a few words. Now no sec- tion of the comitry has more powerful fleets. And each twelvemonth finer ships are launched. It is there that the great- est water progress of America seems to be con- centrated. Out of the St. Lawrence, into and across the gulf of that same name steamers sail with Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island their destination. To the westward hne joins on to line until the very end of this huge water chain, the furthest shore of Lake Superior and D\jI\itK is reached. Except for the Nia^aLra. Rjver it is now ABOARD A HUDSON RIVER BOAT. 82 Water Exploring. possible to go from Cape Breton to DvilutK, stepping literally from swift steamer to swift steamer (save at the point mentioned) a trip half way across the continent. Were such a touring ever undertaken, it would be accomplished in this way : Steamer of the Quebec Steamship Co., Pictou, Nova Scotia, to Montreal. Boats of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Co. to Toronto. Boats of the Niagara Navigation Co. lo Lewiston. Train to Buffalo. Boats of the Anchor Line (Erie and Western Trans- portation Co.), from Buffalo over Lake Erie, Lake Huron and Lake Superior, past Mackinac Island and Sault Ste. Marie to Duluth. JOURNEY LXXXIX. The R.iver St. La.wrence to the Provinces. The •*CampaLi\aL," of the Quebec Steam- ship Compa-ny, from Montreal and Que- bec to Pictou, NovaL Scotia^. A 5-d^y trip. 1,089 miles. Of the many excellent routes close to the shore that are possible to the man who tours up north there is none more entertaining to the eye and the mind than this one of Montreal through the Lower St. Lawrence, past the Saguenay River, over the St. Law- rence's own mouth, and then, hugging the coast closely, passing the Bay of Chaleur, coming along Northumberland Sound between Prince Edward Island and the main land into Pictovi, whence a a train runs to Ha^Iifax. Steaming down the river, much reminiscent of the old Colonial past comes to hand. After Qviebec is left behind, village, head- land, mountain and forest bring back old French Canada. The steamer leaving Monday at 2 P.M., arrives at Qviebec Tuesday noon, at Father Poiiit and Gaspe on Wednesday, at Perce on Thursday, and at Summerside, Charlottetown, Pictou on Friday. The territory rounded at the St. Lawrence's mouth is known as the Gaspe Peninsula.. The " Campana's " schedule for this season comprises bi-monthly Monday trips, sailing from Montreal Mondays. June 2, 16, 30 and each alternate Monday, and from Quebec the next day. Fares for this five-day journey, Montreal to Pictovi, including ^ meals and berth, are $27.00 single fare ; $48.15 excursion. Tlie St. Lau'rence and the Great Lakes. 88 JOURNEY XC. Between Montreal SLnd Prince EdwaLrd IsIdLnd, Catpe Breton a.nd NewfovindlaLnd. By the boa-ts of the Black Diamond Stea-m- ship Co. Steamers leave Montreal every 10 da-ys during Summer. The same trip as Journey LXXXIX. The steamers' destinations are Charlottetown, Sydney and St. Johns- Fares, from Montreal to St. JoKns, one way, S30.00 ; return, $50.00. JOURNEY XCI. Niagara to the sea, doNvn the St. Lawrence. From the w^estern end of Lake Ontario to Riviere du Loup, opposite the mouth of the Sag- uenay River. By the fleets of the Rich- elieu and Ontario Navigation Co. A line up the Saguenay; also, to Chicoutimi. By these steamers the entire St. Lawrence from the Grulf to Lake Orvta>.rio. and La^ke O n t a. r 1 o itself, is covered with great completeness. Nine boats run over the big routes, length 778 miles. This water territory is divided into three sections, Toronto to Mon- trea^I, Montrea.1 to Qvie- bec, below Quebec and on the Saguenay. The "Kingston'' and "To- ronto,'" handsome craft, ply from Toronto to Prescott ; at Prescott connecting with the steamers " CoUimbian " and "Bohemian." This four make up the Toronto Montreal Royal Mail Line. Steamers " Montreal " and "Quebec " run between Montreal and Quebec, and are the Mon- treal-Quebec Line; while the " CaroUna," the " Canada '' and the POST OFFICE, NANTUCKET. 84 Water Exploring. "Saguenay/" that take up the route for Quebec and at R^iviere dvi Lovip, turn up the Saguenay are the Saguenay Line below Quebec. The features and touching points of this extended tour are mani- ifold. Out from Toronto Lake Ontario is crossed to Charlotte, thence northeastward across the lake to Kingston. The steamer has started from Toronto at 4 P.M. It arrives at Kingston at 6 A. M., and at once enters the TKousand Islands. This river archi- pelago continues for perhaps three hours, and then the river widens. Later in the day, all this trip to Montreal being made by daylight, the rapids of the St. Lawrence are met wuh, and the steamer runs them in an exciting lassage of half a dozen chapters, the river boasting many rapids, the last and next to Montreal the most turbu- lent, the LaLcKine Rapids. At 7 P. M. Montrea^l is left behind on the third steamer of the trip, the second having been boarded at Prescott in the early morn ing. It is a nights journey to Quebec, and changing steamers again here on the second niornmg French Canada is toured all day, TaLd- ousac at the Saguenay's mouth being reached at 8 in the evening. As may be imagined, this is the most imposing and picturesque of trips. Its cost is: fares, $17.50, from Toronto up the Saguenay; stateroom charges, $4.00. JOUR.NEV XCII. Between Charlotte, N. Y., to Alexandria Bay, Thou- sand Islands, by the boats of the Lake On- ta-rio a^nd St. La^wrence R.iver Day Line. Pleasing trip of a single day, and made three days a week during the summer months. The boats of this Day Line leave Charlotte (connecting from RocKester, a short distance away, by trains of the New York Central) at 8.50 A.M., Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and arrive at Alexa^ndria Bay 9 P.M., stopping at Sarvdy Point, Oswego, Cape Vincent, CIa.yton, ILound Isla^nd, Thovjsand Island Park. Returning, leave Alex- andria Bay 6.30 A.M., and arrive in Charlotte 6.40 P.M. Tues- days, Thursdays, Saturdaj^s. JOURNEY XCIII. Between Lewiston, N. Y., and Toronto, Onta-rio, by stea.n\ers ** Chicora.,'* "Corona.," "Chip- pewa.," of the Niagara River Line, Niagara Na.viga.tion Compa.ny. The St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes. 85 Across La^ke Ontario's western end. Short journeys. LeNvis- ton is left at 7.50 and 10.30 A.M., 1.50 P.M. and 5.00 P.M. for Toronto, daily except Sunday, and returning boats leave the latter city at 7.00 and 11.00 A.M., 2.00 and 4.55 P.M. JOURNEY XCIV. Up B.nd down the OttoLwa River, from Otta-waL to Montrea.!, by the boasts of the OttaLwa. River NaLViga-tion Con\pa.rvy. This river divides the Canadian provinces of Ontario and Quebec and the pictures presented from its steamers' decks are markedly interesting. They give an idea worth the while of French Canada, with some glimpses of landmarks of the oM French regime. Nearing Montreal these boats make a vividly dramatic trip through the Ld^cKine Rapids. I FLOWER GARDEN, PALM BEACH, FLA. The start each day for this Ottawa River trip is from Otta^va at 7.00 A.M., landing in Montreal at 6.30 in the evening. Going the other way, the boats leave Montreal (via Grand Trunk Rail- way to Lachine) 8.00 A.M., getting to Ottawa at 6.30 in the evening. Water Exploring. JOURNEY XCV. * Between Buffa^lo and Duluth by the steamers of the Anchor Line (Erie a^nd Western Transporta^tion Co.), "China," "India." and "Japan." A 6 day trip over three of the Great Lakes, Erie, Huron, Su- perior, these fine cargo steamers making long stops en route a.t Erie, Cleveland, Detroit, Mackinac, Sa.ult Ste. Marie. For the Water Explorer who has eyes and can use them, who wants to study the world, its places and its people, and has time, this is the most satisfactory of the tours of these northern "seas." These boats are not as magnificent as some others of the Great Lakes, they are not as swift, but they have the merit (superlative to many people) of lying from a few hours to half a day (even at some places nearly a day) at the "calling points," thus giving tiie traveler some hours for sight-seeing in these cities and their environs. Thus the journeyer by these lines can, while on the way. get the best of views of Erie and Cleveland, Detroit and Port Huron, Mackinac and the Sault Ste. Marie, Marquette and Han- cock, all local.ties that deserve more than a passing glance. It is advised that two weeks' time be taken from Buffalo, and the return trip be made on these same boats, since the shores that are passed by night one way are passed by day on the other, and places stopped at for but a short time going westward are given a much longer stay coming back with bow toward the east. Again. these steamers run close to land, seldom far out in the lakes themselves, and steaming comparatively slowly, as they do, thus bring forward many pictures of the coasts that the leviathans miss, being too distant for these to be caught. They make the trip through the Detroit River, St. Clair Lake and River, St. Mary's River and Portage River and Canal, in both direc- tions, in the day time, the views presented here being especially admired by tourists. Leave BviffaLlo, Thursdays and alternate Mondays, at 2.30 P. M. Due at Erie, 8.30 P. M. ; leave Erie Thursdays and alternate Mon- days, at 12.00 midnight. Due at Cleveland, 11.00 A. M. ; leave Cleveland, Fridays and alternate Tuesdays, at 8.00 P. M. Due at Detroit, 6.00 A. M. ; leave Detroit, Saturdays and alternate Wednes- k The St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes. 87 ays, at 12.00 noon. Due at Mackinac Island, 3.00 P. M. ; leave Mackinac Island, Sundays and aliernate Thursdays, at 8.00 P. M. Due at Sault Ste. Marie 6.00 A. M. ; leave Sault Ste, Marie, Mondays and alternate Fridays, at 8.00 A. M. Due at Marquette 10.00 P.M.; leave Marqviette, Mondays and alternate Fridays, at 11.00 P.M. Due at Portage Lake at 8.0U A. M. ; leave Portage Lake, Houghton and Haucock, Tuesdays and alternate Saturdays, at 1.00 P.M. DueatDulutK, Wednesdays aad alternate Sundays, 6.00 A. M. Leave DuIutK, Thursdays and alternate Mondays, at 9.00 P.M. Due at Portage Lake 1.00 P. M. ; leave Porta.ee La^ke, Houghton and Hancock, Fridays and alternate Tuesdays, at 5.00 P. M. Due at Marquette4.00 A. M. ; leave Ma^rquette, Saturdays and alternate Wednesdays, at 11.30 A. M. Due at Sault Ste. Marie 5.00 A. M ; leave Sa^vilt Ste. Marie, Sundays and alternate Thursdays, at 7.00 A. M. Due at Mackinac Island 3.00 P. M. ; leave Ma^ckirvaLC Isla.nd, Sundays and alternate Thursdays at 5.30 P. M. Due at Detroit, 8.00 P. M. ; leave Detroit, Mondays and alternate Fridays, at iO.OO P. M. Due at Cleveland, 7.00 A. M. ; leave Cleveland, Tuesdays and alternate Saturdays, at 9.00 A. 31. Due at Erie 6.00 P. M. ; leave £rie, Tuesdays and alternate Saturuays, at 11.00 P. M. Due at Buff a^Io, Wednesdays and alternate Sundays, 6.00 A. M. The fares are: return, Bviffa.Io and DvilutK, $50.00, this in- cluding stateroom and meals, or less than $4 00 a day. JOURNEY XCVI. Between BuffaLlo and ChicaLgo, touching at Cleve- lacnd, Detroit, MaLckina^c IsIaLnd, HaLrbor Springs aLnd Milwa^ukee, by the Inland Sea SteaLmships "North West" a^nd •* North Land," of the Northern Stean\- ship Co. Time of passa^ge, 64 hours. Two sailings bl week. 1000 miles of little else than sea voyaging, the ships racing at the speed of transatlantic liners, with fittings and accommodations aboard equalling those of the finest "greyhound" between New York and England— that is this especial journey on the Great Lakes. What these two steamers " North West " and '' North Land " are may be seen from the fact that over a million dollars has been spent on each of them. A feature of these craft are their many parlor rooms fitted up with brass bedsteads, built this last year over what was the forward promenade deck. Travelers who want the cream 88 Water Exploring. of journeying hardly need to have it hinted to thera what such rooms mean en voyage. These great ships keep well away from the shore over a large part of their course, steaming out into the sea, at times a great distance from land, and scarcely io sight of it. They travel 22 miles an hour and in equipment and service offer high-priced hotel luxury. In length each is 386 feet. Capacity of each, over 500 passengers. Crew, 18(5 men. Their course is across to the southern shore of Lake Erie from Buffalo ; thence across from Clevela^nd to Detroit ; up the Detroit and the St. Clair Rivers and through La^ke St. ClaLir ; in- to La^ke Hvirorv and through that great sheet of water ; turning westward finally and passing through the Stra.its of MaLckina-c, Then across La.ke MicKigaLrv to Mil-waLukee and down to CKicacgo. Sailings are Tuesdays and Saturdays from Bvjffalo, 10.15 P.M., and from CKicaLgo, Saturdays and' Wednesdays. 5.30 P. M. Fares are $13.50 single, S22.00 round trip between BuffaLlo and Chicago; Staterooms (according to location, etc. ), between these points, one wa\ $4.50 to $50.00. Some rooms are fitted out with bath and many conveniences practically unparalleled in steamship travel. JOURNEY XCVIl. Between Cleveland and Buffalo on the steamers of the Cleveland and Buffalo Transit Co., "City of Buffalo" and "City of Erie." One-night trips over Lake Erie. ''Connecting while you sleep," has come to be the motto of this line, and it is an appropriate phrase. Buffalo is left at 8 P. M., and CIevela.rvd reached 6..30 A. M., and the same time card prevails on the run eastward. The fares are $2.50 single ; $4.50 round trip (berths, 75 cents to $1.25; staterooms, $1.75 and $2.00). Day boat, $1.50 each way. JOURNEY XCVIII. Between Detroit a.nd BuffaLlo by the Detroit e^nd BuffaLlo SteaLinboat Co. (Detroit a^nd Clevela^nd Naviga^tion Co.), steamers "Eastern States" and "Western States," connecting with the steamboat for Mack- 2. Night trips. The St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes. 89 In this and the three following journeys is told again the story of voyaging over the Great Lakes in the most modern of craft. This present line takes the traveler from the Great Lakes' most easterly point for continuous touring, BvjffaLlo on La^ke Erie, and in the course of a night carries him over the Lake into Detroit. This is a journey of 14 hours, made by the handsome boats, "Eastern States"' and ''Western States," side wheelers, 363 feet long and 60 feet breadth over guards, good for 21 to 23 miles an hour. They leave BviffsLlo at 5.30 P. M., getting into Detroit at 7.30 in the morning; and Detroit at 4.00 in the evening, arriving in Buffalo at 7.30 the following morning. The cost of the trip is $3.50 one waj', $6.50 round trip. Berths, $1.00 and $1.50. Stateroom, $2.50 ; with parlor and bath. $7.00 to $9.00. JOUR-NEY XCIX. Between Detroit and Clevelatnd by the boats of the La^ke Erie Division of the Detroit and Clevela^nd Na.viga.tion Co., "City of Detroit" a^nd "City of Cleveland." Night trips and a.lso day service. Kefer to Jovirney XCVIII. In this present Lake trip by night, Cleveland is steamed away from at 10.15 each evening, and De- troit at 10.30. The boats arrive at Detroit at 5.0O the next morning, and at ClevelaLnd at 5.30. The day service of this line is no less an excellent one ; 7jhours is taken to make the trip each way, and the ^UL, OFl ^ I WD COASTS. boats leave either port at 9.30 in the morning. This is very nearly an "air line" route, and there are not many pleasanter on a summer or fall night. $1.00 i"^ the day fare. $1.50 that of the night trips Parlors cost $5.00; staterooms, $2.25; single berths, $1.00 each. Water Exploring. JOURNEY C. Clevela^nd to Put-in-Bay a^nd Toledo, steamers "State of New York" a^nd "State of Ohio," Cleveland-Toledo Line of the Detroit a^nd CleveloLnd Navigation Co. Two trips each way, ea.ch 24 hours, one da^y a^nd one night. Refer to Jovirney XCVIII. Another lake route of this same fleet. The service provides day boats from both Toledo and CIevela.nd for Pvit-in Bak.y. connecting at this island. Leaving Clevelarvd at 8.30 A. M., the tourist by changing steamers gets to Toledo at 7.00 P.M.; leaving Toledo at 9.15 A.M., gets to Cleveland?. 15 P.M. The ■' Sfate of New York " and the "■ State of Ohio '' carry on the night schedule of this division, with this schedule ; 10.00 P. M., from Clevela^rvd. arrive Toledo 6.30 A. M. ; 10.00 P. M. from Toledo arrive Clevela>.nd 6.30 A. M. Put-in Ba>.y is a somewhat remarkable summer resort, not unworthy as a sight. JOURNEY CI. Toledo a.nd Detroit, along the western shore of Lake Erie, through the Detroit Reiver, La^ke St. Cla.ir a.nd the St. Cla^ir Reiver, up into Lake Huron to Macckina-c IslaLnd, where boats for the GeorgiaLn Ba-y region ca-n be boa-rded. By the stea.m- ers *• City of Alpena " and " City ov Mack- inaLC," of the La^ke Huron Division of the Detroit a^nd Clevela-nd Navigation Co. Four trips weekly going north, and four so\ith. At Mackinacc IslaLnd there can also be ta^ken, these rxinning daLily, steamers for the famous "Soo." Also steaLn\ers for Lake MichigaLn, Refer to Journey XCVIII. One of the finest of lake trips, this journey to the northern extremity of La^ke Huron'leading The St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes. 91 through a magnificent water territory, here very fully traversed; 410 miles is the length of this water trip. Its greatest points of interest are in order. The summer colony life on the St. Clair flats, Lake St. Clair and the river to its north, Port Huron, Alpena, and SKe- boygan. The steamers run close to the shore all the way to the north. MackinaLC, whose scenery caps the climax even for the very beautiful and rugged shores of LaLke Hviron, is one of Nature's wonder places and the water gateway of an extraordinary region. Beyond it lie the "Soo" (Savilt Ste. Marie), the straits into Lake Superior, and over to the east Georgian Bay and its 30.000 islands, perhaps more superb. But Mackirvac, first come upon of all, impresses as does no other. Here are forests such as you have to come far north to see ; rocks, cliffs and everywhere, this water end of the vkorld, much commercial traffic, a long procession of craft, moving ore and lumber, off from the frontier into the active cities. From MaLckinac stretch out many lines to Chicago and all points of Lake Michigan m^ to the westernmost ends of Lake Sviperior to Savilt Ste. Marie and the waters of GeorgidLi-v Bay. Mackinac is the " change steamers " for many a route. On this Toledo-Detroit-Mackina^c Line the expense of trav- eUng, roun trip, is : Fare, $8.00 ; stateroom, $2.00 to $3.00. Meals a la carte, at moderate prices. Boats leave Toledo Monday, 9.30 A.M., arrive Mackinac Tuesday 8.30 P.M.; leave Tuesday 4.00 P.M., arrive Thursday 12.45 P.M. ; leave Thursday 4.00 P.M., arrive Sat- urday 12.45 P.M.; leave Saturday arrive Sunday 8.30 P.M. Return- ing, they leave Mackirvac 7.30 A.M. Monday, 7.30 A.M. Wednes- day, 2 P.M. Thursday, 2 P.M. Saturday. From MackinaLC each day at 9.00 A.M., local steamers cruise the "Soo," traversing the splendid St. MaLry's River by day- hght. JOURNEY CII. Between \ Detroit acnd Port Huron by steamers of ^ the White Line. Dacy trips. Short run. > Leave Detroit daily 8.30 A.M. and 2.30 P.M. for Port Huron through Lake St. Clair and River St. Clair. 92 Water Exploring. VA-^< JOURNEY cm. From Macki. nac Island to Les Cheneaux IsldLnds on Lake Huron shore. Short trip. By Arnold Line steaLmers. A local line of much beauty. A.M., 2 P.M., aiTi%e back 1.30 P.M. Leaves Mackinac 6.00 P.M. daily 9.00 JOUR.NEY CIV. To Sauh Ste. Ma.rie from Ma-ckinac Island, by the boats of the Arnold Transit Co. Daily tours along tbis islanded shore, starting from Ma^ck- irvac at 7.3) A.M. and 7.30 P.M. These small boats go so close to the'shore and so slowly that they offer fine trips. JOUR.NEY CV. Scenic tour over Georgia^n Ba^y among its ** 50,000" islands, fronv Mackinac Isla^nd or fron\ Collingwood, Ontario (connecting with Toronto by rail), by the bodLts of the Northern NaLvigattion Co., of Ontario, "City of Collingwood," "City of Mid- la^nd," "Majestic," "Atlantic" and "Ger- n\anic." Many different trips. A special round trip each Thursday by the " Ger- manic," IdLSting 7 days (through the sun\- mer), from Mackinac. On Fridays steamer "City of Collingwood" for the MaLnitoulin Isla^nds, Owen Sound a^nd Collingwood. Unfamiliar ground, though not ioaccessible. Can be reached by a short rail trip from Tororvto if preferred. An excellent plan would be to journey t© Mackinac Island (as detailed above), than to take one of these boats and return by way of Toronto. There are very many fine sightseeing points in this region. The St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes. 98 The steamers leave Sault Ste. Marie (arriving at Mackinac 11 o'clock the next morumg, going over this inside route) Sundays, Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 11.30 P M., for Owen Sound and Colling^vood. It is a three days' trip (one vray) made slowly and deliberately with many stops, as such a trip should THE INLET, FREEPORT, L. I. be. If the boat is taken from Mackinac it is but a two days* trip. The round trip, including meals and berth for the three days, costs $18. The special seven-day excursions alluded to above cost $30 for everything. Parry Sound, a fine section, is on the seven-day excui-sion, but not on the shorter trip above. It should be visited by another steamer, from Collingw^ood, when that town is touched on the three-day trip. JOUR.NEY CVI. Tours over the Latke of Ba.ys, a. cha.in of Canadian lakes. 150 miles north of Toronto. A minor, yet very attractive lake and river system, quite exten- sively navigable. Boats of the Huntsville and Lake of Bays Naviga- tion Route ply over it. There are many little lakes passed over and the Muskoka River is sailed upon. 94 Wat 67' Exploring. JOUR.NEY CVII. Over the Muskoka La^kes, by the steaLiners of the Muskoka NaLVigaLtiorv Co. In the same region as Journey CVI. Reached by rail from Toronto. Boats start from Muskoka Wharf, Province of Ontario. JOURNEY CVIII. Over the Katwartha Lakes, Province of Ontario. This district is close to the two Canadian lake systems immediately above, and is best reached from Lakefield on the Grand Trunk Railway. All this is a land of great picturesqueness. JOURNEY CIX. Between Mackinac Island and Chicago by the steacn\er •*Manitou/' of the Manitou Steamship Co. A day and night trip. Lake Michigan offers several capital trips of itself, and this jour- ney from Chicago to romantic Mackinac is one of the best. Round trip by the "Manitou" $12, berths from $1 upward, 24 hours is the running time, a day and a night aboard. To Chicago the time card is : Leave Mackinac Island, Sun- days 6 P.M., Wednesdays 7.45 A.M., Fridays 11.45 A.M. Arrive Chicago, Mondays 6 P.M., Thursdays 8 A.M.; Saturdays noon. JOURNEY ex. Between Duluth a^nd Chicago by the boats of the La^ke Michigan and Latke Superior Transpor- tation Co., touching att MilwaLukee, Ma.ckinac IsldLnd a^nd Sauh Ste. Ma^rie. The St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes. 95 Covers the scenic features of these two Great Lakes most com- pletely. The tourist will find much of interest in the Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior en route. The fares by this line are : between Chicago and Duluth, $40 round trip (including meals and berth) ; between Mackinac Island and Chicago, $16 round trip; one trip a week, five days each way. The time table is : Leave Chicago Wednesday 8 P.M.: leave Sault Ste. Marie Saturday 8 A.M., arrive Duluth Monday 7 P.M.; leave DuIutK Wednesday 8 P.M.; lea'^e Sault Ste. Marie Saturday 8 A.M., arrive Chicago Monday 6 A.M. JOURNEY Grand Haven, cago. Night. CXI. La.ke Michigan. Between for Chi- From Gra-nd Haverv to CKica.go daily at 9.00 P. M., connect- ing with the Grand Trunk System morning train from Detroit. arriving at Chica^go early next morning; by the steamers of the Goodrich Transportation Co. JOUR.NEY CXII. Between Chicago and Mackinac Island by the steamers of the Northern Michigan Trans- portattion Compa.ny. Twice a^ week. Night trips. Leave MackirvaLC Isla^nd, Mondays 8.00 P. M., Thursdays 9. P. M. Arrive Chica^go Wednesdays and Saturdays 6.30 A. M. Boats call at points on the eastern shore of La^ke MichigaLn. JOUR.NEY CXIII. Between Green Bay, Lake Michigan. Ocnd Mackinac Island. By the boasts of Hart's Green Bay Line. Twice a. week. Night trips. Leaves Ma^ckinaLC Isla^nd forJManistique, Escanabaand Green Bay ports on Thursdays at 6 P. M. and Sundays at 7.30 P. M. 96 Water Exploring. JOUR.NEY CXIV. Between SdLult Ste. Marie, Fort William and Port Arthur on the western shores of Lake Superior a^nd between SaLult Ste. Ma-rie and Owen Sound, Georgian Bay (Lake Huron). By the steamshipc of the Cana- dian Pacific R-a-ilwa^y Co. lieave Sa^vilt Ste. Marie every Sunday, Wednesday and Friday, 2.00 P.M., for Fort William and Port Arthur, and. by rail, Win- nipeg and the Ca.rva.dia.n Northwest. For Owen Sound, Mondays. Wednesdaj-s and Saturdays at noon. JOURNEY CXV. Between Sa^ult Ste. Marie and Port Arthur over Lake Superior, by the boats of the North- west Transportation Co. „These steamers leave Savilt Ste. Ma.rie Wednesdays and Sat- urdays for Port Arthur, 2.00 P. M. Circular Tours. PECONIC BAY, L. 1. Circular lm%. HE entire country east of the Mississippi R-iver mi^'ht be delightfully circumnavigated by water in several ways by he who would take the time. These would most decidedly be " circular tours," and sucli thoy have been named. They are feats for the genuine, bred-in- the- bone Water Explorer to carry through. Suggestions by the way of starting such trips are set down here. New York to New York, by the Mississippi River, steamer to New Orleans, steamer to St. Loviis, steamer to St. PsluI and Minneapolis, rail to DulvitK, steamer to B\iffaLlo, 98 Water Exploring. rail to LeAviston, steamer to Toronto, steamer to Qviebec, steamer to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, and Pictou, Nova Scotia ; steamer to HaLlifax, steamer to New York. It will be observed that there are only two '' breaks " or " gaps," making the railroad necessary in this "Circular Tour'' of many hundred miles, and these both short ones ; from Mir\r\ea.polis to Duluthv and from Bviffa.Io to Lewiston. Chica^go to CKicaLgo ; steamer to Duluth ; rail to Minne- aLpoIis and St. PslviI ; steamer down the Mississippi River to St. Loviis ; steamer to New Orleans ; steamer to New- York or Boston: steamer to Halifax and Pictou*; steamer to Quebec ; steamer to Toronto: steamer to Le'wistorv ; rail to Bvjffalo ; steamer to Chicago. Pittsbvirgh to Pittsburgh ; steamer to St. Louis ; then by water to Lewistorv (Lake Ontario, as in the CKicago ''Cir- cular Tour'" above), rail to Buffalo; steamer to Cleveland ; rail to Pittsburgh. It will again be noted that there are two "gaps," as before, in this second and third "Tour." Some Inland Journeys EW YORK STATE has two lakes of travel import- Nance — Lake George and Lake Cha>.mplain. There are others within her boundaries that have their own fascinations of scene and history. But none of them provide for extended trips afloat or are parts of some great transportation route. Just this latter are what George and CKampIain are. With the Hudson River (which see chapter "Up the Hudson") they make up an almost complete water tour from New York into Canada, to Montreal- And it happens by a wise provision of Nature that Some Inland Journeys. 99 Lake George and Lake CKamplain not only fit in with the con- venience of the tourist but that they are each extraordinarily beauti- ful sheets of water, certain to bs journeyed to if they were beyond civilization's bounds. JOURNEY CXVI. Or Lake George between Caldwell and Baldwin, and Lake Champlain between Fort Ticon- deroga aLnd Pittsburgh. By the steamers of the Lake George Steamboat Co. a-nd ChatmplaLin Tra-nsporta-tion Co. One day's trip, all in all, the boats of these two lakes connecting by a short trip by rail. Three hours are spent on cruising up Lake George, nearly six in steaming up Champlain. Sucli a trip never gets tiresome, nevertheless. Too many interesting places are passed, too much histox-y and legend hangs over nearly every head- land and a tradition for substantially every cove. It must be remembered that this was Revolutionary territory, that these two lakes, and especially Champlain, saw much of the fighting, and in no small measi.re bore the brunt of the "Northern Campaign." At La.ke CKa.mplain's foot stands Fort Ticon- deroga, witness of many a memory There are shades about here of Ethan Allan and the Green Mountain Boys, and the Naval Battle on Chanrvplain has much more than a foot note in history. He who runs by these boats should read— what his forefathers did. TKe La^ke George steamers leave Caldwell at 3.40 P. M. and 9.30 A. M., reaching Baldwin at 7 05 P. M. and 12.30 noon. They return at 7 30 A. M. and 12.30 P. M., getting back to Caldwell at the lake's southern end at 10.50 A. M. and 4.15. The Cha^m- pla^in through boat connects with the boat that reaches the upper end of La^ke George at 12.30 noon, and steams away itself at 1.10 P. M , landing at PlattsburgK, where the thi-ough trains are taken at 6.50. Leaving Plattsburgh each week-day morning at 7 o'clock, it goes to Fort Ticonderoga at noon, transferring its travelers aboard the down La^ke George steamer that pulls out of her dock at 12.30, and is due at Caldwell 4.15 that afternoon. This trip of a day may as well be split into two tours as com- pressed into one. It is, in reahty, two distinct voyagings. Coswstwise SoutKwe^rd. NYWHERE to Anywhere might be consistently taken A as the motto of the Southern coast, which, with its intri- cate network of waterways, logically begins at Cape May. Innumerable steamboats, little and great, have to serve it, and it is to be noted that the directors of their companies grow sleeker and mount into the men-of- means class, and that each new boat is finer and better than the last that came from the shipyard. For the Southland, always a great country, is now a greater one, and in her new commercial phase she is enticing aboard her craft that steam along her shores— not alone freight but men and women that find these tours to Southern cities agreeable in the ex- treme. Nor is it only the immediate Atlantic coast that shares in this. Bermuda^., that near at hand British possession, finds itself increasing in tourist popularity. Cuba and Porto Rico are now commencing to attract travelers, and New OrleaLfYs, Ga.Ives- ton, and indeed the en- tire Gulf of Mexico, will have the Water Ex- plorer at their doors more than ever. A trip to the South from any of the North- ern ports has all the charm of an ocean voyage. There is often no land on the horizon. When there is, it is frequently but a barely distinguishable streak, formless, suggesting little of the country that is there. But with the Southern coasters this is never for long. The steamer lays a ON THE SHORES OF LAKE SUCCESS, L. I. Courtesy of H. B. Fullcrton Coastwise Southward. 101 little different course, and the land assumes distinct outlines. The shore now grows into a comprehensive picture. Now the vessel is .steaming^ up a bay, a sound or a strait that is many degrees nearer tropicallj' in vegetation than the land left behind. Soon the spires and warehouses of a Southern city come into view. One stage of that trip's cruising is over. JOURNEY CXVII. Between Ne\v York a-nd Newport News, Old Point Comfort, Norfolk and Portsmouth. A daily trip with the exception of Sunda.y. With connecting boats at Norfolk to Wa^shington, Richmond a^nd Baltimore. By the steamers of the Old Don\inion Stea-niship Co., "Jefferson," "Hamilton," "Princess Anne" a-nd " Ja^mestown." Steamers and tour correspond in name. It is veritably the " Old Dominion '" that this waterway leads the Explorer into, the region of the James River, where the first settlement in America was planted. As if this of itself were not enough, history seems to have centered there through all the years. The '' Old Dominion," that is to say, the State of Virginia, became well known before the country was a half century old as " the Mother of Presidents.'" Washington himself led the line of Virginians of the early days. Casting off from its New York dock (Pier 26, North River, foot of Beach street), at 3 P.M., whichever of the fleet of four craft it is that happens to be sailing that day, passes Romer Light at 4.10 and the Scotland Light Ship just outside the Lower Bay, 20 miles from the city, at 4.33. In the summei- months, the liner is facing Barne- gat, steadily ploughing forward, before the last touch of daylight is gone. If the traveler is out at 6 o'clock the next morning he will catch a ghmpse of Hog Island Light, and an hour later Cape Charles Lightship. Cape Henry is in plain sight and near at 8 o'clock, and a landing made at Newport News at 9, Norfolk being reached at half past ten. Steamers leave Norfolk at 7 each week day evening, arriving at Pier 26, New^ York, at 2.15 the following afternoon, thus coming up the entire coast of Jersey by daylight. DelaL'wat.re Light Ship is, in fact, sighted at 5.50 A. M. and th3 Jersey Highlands at noon. During the afternoon of the day of arrival at Norfolk the con- 102 Wafer Exploring. necting boats spoken of start along the inside water ways for the inland cities mentioned, Washington, Baltimore, and RicK- morvd. There is an interim of 4)4 hours, the start being made for these points at 3 P. M., to Washington along CKesapeake Bay and up the Potoma.c River on the steamers of the Norfolk and Washington, D. C. Steamboat Co. (boat also to be taken from Newport Ne\vs) ; to BaLltimore, over CKesa^peake Ba.y (also from Newport Ne'ws) on the steamers of the Baltimore Steam Paekt^t Co., or the steamers of the Chesapeake Steamship Co.; to RicKnnond up the James River on the Old Dominion Steamship Co's boat "Brandon." The "Brandon." however, only sails from Norfolk Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, and train not until 7 P. M. Passengers can take the railroad to Richmond on other days, the train leaving at '6 o'clock. History, tradition, modern life, fill this region to overflowing. Newnort News is Old Poirvt Comfort, that famous resort. That is, all but the commercial and ship-building end of the place goes by that name. This is getting to be a great railroad and shipping centre. It has a third title, the official title of Fortress Monroe, and is the centre of a brilliant naval society. The waters immedi- ately about here are the Ha.mptorv R.oads. where Chesapeake Bay and the James River meet. It was in this spot that the battle of the " Monitor " and the " Merrimac''' was fought. Here, too, is the Hampton Institute for the instruction of colored and Indian youth that is solving the question of the negro's future. But only a small percentage of what is interestmg about the South"s "Old Dominion,"" concentrated in these few miles of water and land, can be set down. It should be added, however, that Old Point Comfort is a place of the greatest gayety. and that its great hotels, the Chamberlin and the Hygeia especially, are alone worth coming down to explore. Altogether, this is a trip that can hardly be left out of the Water Explorer's programme for this present and coming year. The steamer, New^ York to Norfolk or Old Point Comfort, round trip, is $13.00, including stateroom and meals. JOURNEY CXVIII. Between New York a^nd BsLltimore, by the stea^m- ers of the New York and Baltimore Transportaction Line. Three boats each way a week. Sailing from Pier 7 North River, New York, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, 5 P. M.. Trip, 36 hours. Coastwise Southward. JOURNEY CXIX. Between Boston and Philadelphia^, by the boasts of the Boston and PhilaLdelphia Steam- ship Co. Three sailings each week. These boats leave Central Wharf. Boston, at 3 P. M. Tixesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays. Leave PKiladelphia for Boston, 3 P. M., Mondays, Wednesdays. Fridays. Fares, including berth in state- room and meals, S18.00 round trip. JOURNEY CXX. Between Philadelphia and Baltimore by the boats of the Baltimore and Philadelphia Steam- boatt Co. A daily line. By way of the Delaware River and ChessLpeake Bay. Steamers leave PhiladelpKia each day at 5 P.M. JOURNEY CXXI. Between Washington. Old Point Comfort and Nor- folk, over the historic Potomac Reiver. Night journey. By steamers of the Nor- folk and Washington, D. C, Stea^miboat Co., "Newport News," "Norfolk" and "Washington." One hundred and ninety-five miles of touring over perhaps the most important river, historically, of America, with the National Capitol either the starting point or the destination. Traveling south, Washington is left at 6.30 in the evening (reaching Nor- folk 8 A.M.); traveling north, Norfolk is left at 6 P.M. and Wash- ington reached 6.50 in the early morning. Fare, each way, $3.00 ; staterooms, SLOO and upwards: meals a la carte. On the way these landmarks of note are passed : Mount Ver- non, Washington's tomb and his old home ; Wakefield, where Washington was born ; Indian Head, a Government proving ground for heavy ordnance : Acquia Creek and Mathias Point, where heavy 104 Welter Exploring. batteries were put up by the Confederates in the war of 40 jearsago. From these steamers one gets a good view of the Government Navy Yard close by Norfolk, of the many ships and the Roads great marine life. i JOUR.NEY CXXiL Between \ Baltimore, Old Point Comfort, Norfolk < and Portsmouth, by the "AlabaLma," " GeorgiaL*' a.nd " Tennessee," steamers of the Bay Line, Baltimore Stea.m Pa-cket Co. Night trips. Daily except Sundays. Hour of sailing from Baltimore is 6.30 P. ;M. from Ports- mouth. 5.50 P. M. Arrive in PortsrrvovjtK 8.20 A. M. ; in BaLlti- more 6.45 A.M. $3.00 single fare, $5.00 excursion; staterooms, $1.00 to $2.5J. JOUR.NEY CXXIII. Between Baltimore and Norfolk via Old Point Comfort, and between Baltimore s^nd Richmond via West Point, by the boats of the Chesapeake Steanvship Co. Two distinct night trips, sailed each week-doLy The first of these is: From Baltimore, 6.30 P.M.; to Old Point Comfort, 6.00 A.M.; to Norfolk, T.OO A.M. From Norfolk, 5.45 P.M.; to Old Point Comfort, 6.45 P.M.; to Baltimore. T.OO A.M. The second trip is : From BaLltimore, 5 P.M.; to West Point, 7.30 A.M.; to RicKmond, 9.15 A.M. From RicKmond, 4.30 P.M.; to West Point, 5.45 P.M.; to Baltimore. 8.30 A.M. JOURNEY CXXIV. Between Richmond, Ja^mestown, Norfolk, New- port News, Old Point Comfort. By boasts of the Virginia Navigation Co. (Jatmes River Da^y Line), 10 hour day trips. Three da^ys aL week. Coastwise Southicard. 105 Tours of very great charm over the James River to and from RicKmond, Si. 50 and $2.50, single fare and round trip. Sail from Richmond Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 7 A.M., due Nor- folk 5.30 P.M. Sail from Norfolk Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, 7.00 A.M., due Richmond 5.30 P.M. < JOURNEY CXXV. Between \ 3 Boston* Norfolk, Ne\vport News a^nd BslI- C / timore. By the steaLmers of the Mer- b < chants' a.nd Miners' Transporta.tion Co. ? S Four trips a week. c The fleet of this company is as follows: "Alleghany," "Berkshire," "Chatham,'' "Dorchester," "Essex," "Gloucester," "Howard," "Hudson," "Itasca," "Jimiata," "Kershaw," "D. H. Miller," "Nan- tucket," "Texas," "New Orleans," "Powhatan." The company run five distinct lines along the Atlantic seaboard, of which this the Boston, Norfolk and Baltimore line has the most northerly destination. The other four lines foUow under the next four "Journeys." This despatches its boats from Boston (Battery Wharf), Mon- days, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays ; from BaLltimore Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Sundays. Excursion fare, S20. JOURNEY CXXVI. Between Providence, Norfolk, Newport News a^nd Ba-himore. By the steamers of the Mer- chants* and Miners' Transporta.tion Co. Three trips a. week. See Journey CXXV. first two paragraphs. This Providence. Norfolk and Baltimore line leaves Providervce, R. I., Mondays. Wednesdays and Fridays; and Baltimore same days, both points at 6 P. M. Fares same as Journey CXXV. 106 Water Exploring. See Jovirney CXXV, first two paragraphs. Daily service each evening between these points, including Sunday. Fares with stateroom berth, without raeals, $5.00 round trip. The Norfolk and Baltimore line. JOUR.NEY CXXVIII. Between SaLvaLFinaLh aLnd Ba-ltimore. By the Mer- cha-nts* aLi\d Miners* Transportation Co. Three trips a week. See Journey CXXV, first two paragraphs. The Savannah and Baltimore line. Leaves Baltimore Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday. Returning leaves Savannah same day, $25.00 round trip. JOURNEY CXXIX. Between PhilaLdelphia. and SaLvaLnnah. By the SteaLmers of the Merchatnts' and Miners' Tra^nsportation Co. Two trips a week. See Journey CXXV, first two paragraphs. From PhiladelphiaL Tuesdays and Fridays; from SavannaK Wednesdays and Saturdays. Round trip fare $29. The Philadelphia and Savannah Line. JOURNEY CXXX. Between New York and Savannah (See Journey LIX, same Company, from Boston, con- nects with this). By the Savannah Line (Ocean Steamship Co.) 5 sailings a week. Sailings to this Southern port by this line are Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sarurdays, from New Pier 35. foot of Spring street. New York, 5 o'clock P.M. The tieet comprises ''City of Savannah." "Kansas City,'' "• City of Birmingham," "City of Augusta.'' ''Tal- lahassee." " Chattahoochee," •' Nacoochee " A 50 to 60 hours voyage; f 20 one way, $32 round trip. Coastwise Southward 107 SavannaK, without being especially historic or reminiscent, is, a very entertaining Southern city to visit. JOURNEY CXXXI. Between New York aLnd Charleston, South Caro- lina, Jacksonville, Florida, and Wilming- ton, North Carolina. By the Clyde Line SteaLn\ships "Comanche," "Arapahoe," "Apatche" and "Iroquois." Tri-weekly sdLilings fron\ New York. Also direct semi-w^eekly steamer service to these points from Boston. This is one of the most direct and speedy lines to the South and Southwest. Its steamers leave Pier 45 North River, New York? near Christopher street ferry. Excursion fare to Jacksonville $4T.30, to Charleston S32. Into the heart of Florida, touching at Magnolia. Springs, Greerv Cove Springs and Palatka. Three trips a week. Fare $3.75 each way, including meals and stateroom berth. The Mallory fleet includes the steamers "Denver,'" "Concho," "Sabine," "Nueces,'" "Comal," "Lampasas," "Alamo," "San Marcos," "Colorado," "Rio Grande," and they sail from Piers 19, 20, and 21, East River, New York. The proposed sailings of the season are : 108 Water Exploiting. Leave New York for GaLlveston, Texas, every Wednesday and Saturday, 3 P. M.; for Key West, Florida, every Saturday, 3 P. M.; for Brvirvswick, Georgia, every Friday, 3 P. M. Tbe voyage to GaLlveston is six days in lengtti, and the excur- sion fare is $75. To Key West, Florida, the fare is S65 excur- sion. JOURNEY CXXXIV. Between Ne\v York and Tampa, and PensacolaL, Florida.. By the Atlaciitic a.nd Gulf Steamship Company. Another route to Florida. JOURNEY CXXXV. Between New York and New Orleans by the Cromwell Steamship Co. A 5}4 day trip. Comus," " Knicker- isiana." one sailing Boats " Proteus, bocker" and "Louisiana," one each Saturday afternoon from New York, Wednesday from New Orleans, connect- ing with the steamers "Chalmette" and "Excelsior" of the Southern Pacific- Morgan Line for Ha-va-na.. Ne^w Orleans yields to absolutely no other city in America as a spot for the sight-seeing tourist, with its French Quarter, French Market, curious cemeteries, churches and theatres. There is much old architecture standing as well. The Cromwell Line is the old line of coasters founded for the carry- ing trade fifry years, and its steamers hold their field to-day. Sailings are from Pier 34. North River, Tiew York, at 3.00 o'clock each Saturday, and from head of St. Louis Street, New Orleans, each Wednesday, 9 A. M. '1 JOUR.NEY CXXXVI. Between " New^ York and New Orleans, By the steamers of the Morgan Line. Three sailings a. w^eek. Coastwise Southward 109 Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday are the sailing days for this sec- ond line of New Orlea.ns— New York boats. Pier foot of North Moore Street. North Fiver, New York. 110 Water Exploring A SAIL OF SIXTY MILES on the historic Hudson with its ever changing scenery, and its shore-lined mountains of surpassing grandeur to the Northern Gateway of the Highlands. POPULAR TRIPS •A CENTRAL-HUDSON STEAMERS WEST POINT COLD SPRING CORNWALL NEWBURGH, FISHKILL, and the New Resort on the Summit of Mt. Beacon WILBUR H. WESTON, President, Newburgfh, N. Y. W. W. HEROY, EVERETT E. WILLIS, City Passenerer A.grent, General Passenger Agent. Pier 24, N. R., New York City. Newburgh, N. Y. SEE TRIP VI, PAGE 20. Advertisements 111 Entertaining Beyond Comparison ISLAND yr" TTRACTIONS from all parts the world. Inter- / \ esting novelties. A band of wild riders and J^\\ steer catchers from the Plains of Mexico. (s Grand concerts, magnificent foliage, rare plants, horticultural wonders, unequaled menagerie, museum and aquarium. ALL FREE. Delightful sail on swift steamers. Glen Island Clambake. Dinners a la Carte. "Klein Deutschland." The Dairy. Boating, Bathing, Bowling, Billiards, Fishing. Time Table.— Steamers Leave: Cortlandt Street Pier, 9.00, 10.00, 11.00 A. M., 12.00 M., 1.30, 2.30, 3.45. 5.15 P. M. Bridge Dock. Fulton Ferry, Brooklyn, 9.20, 10 20, 11.20 A. M., 12.20, 1.50, 2.50, 4.00 P. M. East 32d Street, 9.45, 10.45, 11.45 A. M., 12.45, 2.15, 3.15, 4.30, 5.45 P. M. Leave Glen Island 11.00 A. M. for 32d Street and Cort- landt Street, 12.00 M. and i.oo P. M. for Cortlandt Street only, 3.00. 5.00, 6,00, 7.00 and 8.00 P. M. for all landings. Frequent extra boats on Sundays and Holidays. Excursion, 40 Cents. Including admission to all attractions. (See Journey XXI— Page 32). 112 Water Exploring. Kontauk Steamboat Go. (LIMITED; Orient. Greenport, Shelter Island, Southold and Sag Harbor, LONG ISLAND and Block Island, R. I. FAST STEAMERS MODERN APPOINTMENTS Steamers will leave New York, Pier 13, East River, near foot Wall Street, week days, except Saturdays, at 5.30 p. M. On Saturdays at i.oo p. m. The steamers leaving on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays will not stop at Southold. Additional Service to Block Island. — On Satur- days, during July and August, one of the steamers of the Montauk Steamboat Company's line will connect at Montauk, L. I., with Long Island R. R. train No. 187, leaving New York, 34th Street, East River, 1.20 p. m.; Pier 13, near foot Wall Street, at i.oo p. m.; Flatbush Avenue, Brooklyn, at 1.19 p. m., arriving at Block Island at 7.00 p. m. On Mondays the steamer Shinnecock will leave Pier 13, East River, at 8.00 a. m.; returning leave Sag Harbor at 5.00 p. m. Excursion tickets (good only on date sold), going and returning by boat, $2.00. Going by boat and returning by Long Island R. R. same day, $3.00. Greenwood Cake. B\ M '.iLenwood Lake Division of the Erie Railroad the resident of New York City is enabled in less than two hours to exchange the turmoil, noise and smells of a super- heated and nerve-distracting city for the quiet beauty and cool, delicious, forest-scented air of a 1)eautiful sheet of water ten miles in length, situated i,ooo feet above >s>. the ocean, and surrounded by ^ ^^^ ^^ mountains still wearing their >^^|^H^pv primeval verdure, it is the nearest ^M ^ ■ 1 1 *||^ ^^^® ^ ^^^ ^^ Swit- /-erlaud of anv X^.l'llll'^ • thing within a New York, and has been promptly during the heated any day's journey of naturally enouc^ii utilized as a res( ■ season. Fed by t(»i tsL siieanih, it> waters are of crystal- line purity, and in some places of unknown depth. Hlack bass are taken in large quantities, but frequent restocking keeps up the supply, while speckled trout abound in the many brooks in the vicinity. Despite the erection of many expensive private cottages, and a large numl^er of hotels and boarding houses, much of the wil- derness in the vicinity of the lake remains unsubdued, and the charms of nature are still to be enjoyed in their pristine beauty. A number of hotels pay especial attention to fishermen. Hunting is good in the moun- tains, partridges being the game most frequently bagged. The roads are first class, and there are many pleasant (liivt in lining those to Sterling Lake, r ^ ter, etc. D. W. COOKC, General Passenger Agent. Nei^ York. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS The Most Charming Inlanj American Cr 014 113 591 The Palace Iron Steamers ^ALBANY '' of tb Day Line, DAILY. EXCEPT SUNDAY. Leave New York, Desbrosses St., 8.40 A. M. New York, West 33d St., N. R., 9.00 A. Ml New York, West 129th St., N. R., 9.15 A. M. Albany, Hamilton St., 8.30 A. M. THE ATTRACTIVE ROUTE FOR SUMMER PLEASURE TRAVEL TO AND FROM The Thousand Islands and St. Lawrence River. The Catskill Mountains. Saratoga and the Adirondacks. Hotel Champlain and the North. Niagara Falls and the West. I TS VIA DAY LINE ARE ON SALE AT ALL OFFICi: A trip on one of thes cam in the country • ■] -rr. ;;, Vu- ni...;t , amers on the n( 1 ' ractions. Thtv •' • ■ :',; an uum' ' • ■ -l -'■■."' • . !<«r which tl,. II;..'...:,:."'-' THROUGH TICKF'I ^^ - ' to all points, and baKV ■ eked to destination Send 6 cents for copy of **Summer Excursion Book" f\ B. HIBBARD, E. E. OLCOTT. ' icnermi Passenxer Ageat Oeaeral Maa^g0r. Desbrosses Street Pier, New York, (PKS KMOOKI YN-NFW YORK