%.-^: U Class, Book. XXr^ .J^ OKFIOIAJj DONATION. m H JAMES S. DUNCAN, PuNic Printer. w < < m < o o w H o H I— I > THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 3 1 esources and proximity to the markets of Mexico and the Orient. For the Husbandman. Farmers are wanted to till the soil under the most favorable conditions and with home markets that pay better prices than any eastern market. Only a quarter of a million of acres are under cultivation; four times that area is immediately avail- able for agricultural purposes. Not one-half of the flowing waters are utihzed and not one-fiftieth of the flood waters are stored. New Mexico raises the finest fruit in the world and every other crop that can be produced anywhere in the tem- perate zone. Yet, it imports annually millions of dollars worth of flour, alfalfa, hay, potatoes, garden produce, poultry, eggs, butter and other products that it can and should raise at home. Free lands, an ideal chmate, irrigation, churches, schools, rail- road facilities, home markets, good prices and extensive range, are all factors which help to make the life of the farmer and stock grower in New Mexico pleasant and prosperous. For the Miner. Miners are needed. New Mexico lies in the same mineral zone as Colorado with the difference that Colorado has been well prospected and the opportunities and chances for discov. ering bonanzas are very limited, while in New Mexico, there has been very little systematic prospecting and the mining field is open to every newcomer. For the Health Seeker. Health seekers are invited. New Mexico does not intend to shut the door upon them. Eastern phj^sicians recognize that its climate offers the best conditions under which those suffer- ing from lung, throat and nervous troubles can effect a cure. Colorado climate is good, California climate is good, Arizona climate is better, but New Mexico climate is best of all. This is no longer a theory, but an acknowledged fact. The United States government has recognized the superiorit}'' of New Mexico in this respect by establishing in the Territory a Marine Hospital for consumptives at Fort Stanton and an Army and Navy Hospital for consumptives at Fort Bayard, and THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 5 the story of the cures that have been achieved, is now a part of official records. Ample accommodations are offered by tent cities, hotels, sanitaria and homes in the larger towns as well as the smaller settlements and at the various hot springs, which latter are gaining renown for their potent medicinal virtues. For the Tourist. Tourists are welcomed. New Mexico has superb mountain scenery, quiet and picturesque valleys, unparalleled historic and prehistoric attractions. It is the land of the Cliff Dwellers ; of the Pueblo Indians; of the Indian dances: of the Conquista- dores: of towns and buildings older than the oldest historic monuments of any other part of the United States; of scenery grand and unique; and to the sportsman it offers good hunting and excellent fishing. H < H 2i < H <1 o I— » Q J I— t m « H Q H Cm CHAPTER II. STATISTICS. i^i^r bHAT has been accomplished here by the comparative M M I few, with the employment of limited capital and ^^kl by a mere touch of development, is demonstrated ^r^^ by the following figures which have been carefully compiled from official statistics: Area: 122,469 square miles. Population. Estimated population, 284,000, in 1904; by the census of 1900, 195,310; 1H90, 153,503; 1880, 119,565; 1870, 91,874: 1860, 87,034: including Arizona and southern Colorado, 1850, 61,547. Of the present population, 144,000 came from the states or are children of parents from the states; 127,000 are of native Span- ish or Mexican descent; 13,000 are Indians. Of the 66,396 wage-earners in the census year of 1900, 40 per cent or 27,215 were engaged in agricultural pursuits; 19,478 in domestic service; 10,378 in manufacturing, mining and as mechanics: 7,208 in trade, and 2,118 in the professions or in government service. i An estimate of the population of New Mexico from registra- tion and school census returns: Males of voting age, 69,000; females of the same age, 68,030; persons of school age, 68,000; foreigners not citizens, 5,000; Indians, 13,000; children under the age of five, 61,000; total, 284,000. Farms and Farm Products. Number of farms, 1890, 4,45H: in 1900, 11,834. Acres in farms in 1890, 787,8H2; in 1900, 5,130,878. Value of farms in 1890, $33,548,141, in 1900, $53,737,824. Value of farm lands, 1890, $8,140,800; 1900, $20,888,824. Value of farm implements, 1890, $291,140; 1900, $1,151,610. Value of Hve stock, 1890, $25,111,201; 1900, $31,727,400. Value of farm products, 1890, $2,000,000; 1900, $10,000,000. Acres in alfalfa, 1H90, 12,139; THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 9 liiOO, 55,467. Acres under cultivation, 1890, 91,745; 1900, 203,083. Butter, l'890, 105,000 pounds; 1900, 381,000 pounds. Eggs, 1890, 280,000 dozen; 1900, 840,000 dozen. Hay, 1900, $1,427,317. Cereak, 1900, $978,903. Vegetables, 1900, $278,- 413. Orchards, Ic^X), $197,331. Other products, 1900, $374,537. Acres under irrigation, 1900, 326,873. Improved farms, 1900, 12,411. Farms under irrigation, 1900, 9,128. Value of irrigated farms, 1900, $13,551,582. Value of non-irrigated farms, 1900, $3,773,177. The above statistics do not take into consideration the lands cultivated by the Indians, the Pueblos being farmers and great producers of crops; nor of crops raised on farms of less than three acres, of which there are many. Climate. The United States weather bureau at Santa Fe, which covers the entire Territory, reports for 1903, 29 cloudy days out of 365: 80 per cent of sunshine; a maximum velocity of the wind of 46 miles an hour, and an average velocity of 6.8 miles an hour; an annual mean temperature of 48.7 per cent; a maxi- mum temperature of 89 degrees; a minimum temperature of 4 degrees; a precipitation of 9.79 inches, a maximum monthly precipitation of 2.49 inches, a minimum monthly precipitation of 0.02 of an inch. Lands. Subject to entry under the federal land laws June 30, 1903, 52,000,000 acres. Included in the three forest reserves, 5,125,- 000 acres; in land grants approved by congress or the courts 9,963,200 acres; by the court of private land claims, 1,934,986 acres. The land grants approved by congress include 549,065 acres belonging to the Indians. Public lands entered from June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1903, 2,179,738 acres. By years: From June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1901, 655,739 acres; June 30, 1901, to June 30, 1902, 441,871 acres; June 30, 1902, to June 30, 1903, 1,082,128 acres. Of the above areas the following were entered under the homestead laws from June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1903, 1,120,477 acres. By years: From June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1901, 265,524 acres; from June 30, 1901, to June 30 BERNALILLO COUNTY COURT HOUSE AT ALBUQUERQUE. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 11 1902, 396,757 acres; from June 30, 1902, to June 30, 1903, 468,196 acres. Desert land entries, June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1903, 129,395 acres. By years: From June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1901, 8,472 acres: from June 30, 1901, to June 30, 1902, 46,596, acres, from June 30, 1902, to June 30, 1903, 74,565 acres. Mineral Production. From 1860 to 1900 there were produced $17,600,000 worth of gold. In 1903, New Mexico produced: Gold, $384,685; sil- ver, $148,659; copper, $860,737; lead, $94,936; a total of $1,489,016. This does not include the production by individual placer miners or by prospectors not mining in a systematic manner. In addition there were produced large quantities of coal, iron, turquoise, gypsum, building material, and a num- ber of useful minerals and precious stones. The Colorado Fuel and Iron Company during the fiscal year hauled 138,151 long tons of iron ore out of Grant county. The director of the mint gives the gold production of New Mexico for 1903 at $531,000, and of silver at $586,000. Coal. Area of prospected coal lands, 1,493,480 acres; amount of coal in sight, 8,813,840,000 tons valued at $10,000,000,000. Coal produced from June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1903, 3,710,000 tons, valued at $5,011,281. Coke produced during the same period, 94,697 tons, valued at $252,642. There were twenty-eight coal mines worked during the past year; three new mines were opened, one resumed, and two were abandoned. Coal produced from June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1901, 1,217,230 tons, valued at $1,605,174; from June 30, 1901, to June 30, 19l)2, 1,322,944 tons, $1,609,848; from June 30, 1902, to June 30, 1903, 1,359,530 tons, valued at $1,795,208. Coke as follows: From June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1901, 42,732 tons, valued at$117,516; from June 30, 1901 to June 30, 1902, 25,012 tons, valued at $58,207; from June 30, 1902, to June 30, 1903, 26,353 tons, valued at $76,919. Men employed in the coal mines June 30, 1901, 1,870; June 30, 1902, 1,682; June 30, 1903, 2,341. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 13 Railroads. There were 1,679 miles of railroad on June 30, 1900; 1,9^1 miles on June 30, 1901: 2,263 miles on June 30, 1902; 2,520 miles on June 30, 1903, a total increase in three years of 841 miles. Stock. According to the best estimates, there are here 1,123,000 head of cattle; 5,674,000 sheep, 250,000 goats, 97,500 horses. The wool crop in 1903 was 22,000,000 pounds. During the last fiscal year there were shipped out of the territory 184,602 cat- tle, 5,562 horses and 422,252 sheep. Internal Revenue. From June 30, 1900, to June 30, 1903, New Mexico paid $130,375 in internal revenue. For the year ending June 30, 1903, $33,918; for the year ending June 30, 1902, $37,847; for the year ending June 30, 1901, $58,607. Incorporations. In the past three fiscal years 553 companies filed incorpora- tion papers, with a capitalization of $309,711,966 with the Ter- ritorial Secretary. In the fiscal year ending June 30, 1901, 149 companies incorporated with a capital stock of $89,735,925; in the fiscal year ending June 30, 1902, 204 companies incor- porated, with a capitalization of $119,446,500; in the year end- ing June 30, 1903, 200 companies incorporated, with a capitali- zation of $100,529,541. Incorporation fees paid to the Territo- rial Treasurer were as follows: Fiscal year 1900, $5,772.25; 1901, $7,640.75; 1902, $10,706; 1903, $13,628.50, a total of $37,747.50. Assessment. In 1900, projjerty real and personal, subject to taxation, was 5,364,761: in 1901 the assessment was $36,977,047; in 1902, ^,633,993: in 1903 it had risen to $41,832,566, including ex- emptions amounting to $2,235,615, leaving an assessment sub- ject to taxation of $39,596,951. Property in New Mexico is assessed at an average of only 30 per cent of its real value. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 15 Indebtedness. On June oO, 1901, the indebtedness of the Territory was $1,1S0,^<00; on June 30, 1902, it was $1,123,800 and the sinking fund !j;f-(9,246; on June 30, 1903, the indebtedness was $1,098,- 000 and the sinking fund $234,590. This shows a reduction of $270,090 in three years. On June 30, 1904, the bonded indebt- edness was $1,062,900, and the sinking funds amounted to $208,165. Taxes Collected. Revenue of the Territory the past three years was $1,545,- 241; of which $1,127,689 came from direct taxation; $419,622 collected during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1903; $332,328 collected during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1902, and $375,738 for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1901. From other sources Territorial revenue was derived to the amount of $407,542, $142,758 being received during the fiscal 3^ear ending June 30, 1901 ; $118,005 during the year ending June 30, 1902, and $156,788 during the year ending June 30, 1903. Federal appropriations for disbursement in New Mexico during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1903, $423,070. Territorial tax rate, 1900, 14.05 mills; 1901, 14.28 mills; 1902, 13.09 mills; 1903, 15.51 mills; 1904, 14 mills. Insurance Companies. During the past three fiscal years insurance companies authorized to do business in New Mexico collected in pre- miums $1,998,444 and paid out for losses, $672,415. Life in- surance companies wrote in the three years, policies amount- ing to $6,552,669; tire insurance companies $39,233,614; and miscellaneous insurance comjoanies, $5,246,885; a total of $51,033,168. During the fiscal year ending June 30, 1903, there were written in New Mexico life insurance policies amounting to $3,095,854, fire insurance policies to the amount of $15,549,968,- miscellaneous policies to the amount of $2,916,- 414, and premiums collected to the amount of $766,389; while in the year previous $655,015 were collected in i:»remiums, and the year previous to that $577,039; losses paid during the past fiscal year, $251,342; the year previous, $234,236, and the year previous to that $186,836. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 17 Public Buildings and Grounds. The Territory maintains fifteen Territorial institutions, the value of their buildings and grounds is $2,000,000, without the grants of public lands made to them by congress. In addi- tion, the Territory grants subsidies to seven hospitals and an orphan asylum maintained by rehgious and charitable organi- zations. The value of the public school property of the Terri- tory is $690,697, not counting the school sections in each township. The value of the public property of counties and towns, not counting grants to towns hke Santa Fe, Las Vegas, Albuquerque, Socorro, etc., is $495,000, making a total value of public property, not including lands, of $3,185,697. Educational. School population: 1903, 68,152; 1902, 62,864; 1901, 53,008. The school population includes all persons between the ages of five and twenty-one years, and the census is taken an- nually. Enrollment in the public schools: 1903, 37,646; 1902, 35,327. 1901, 31,510; 1900, 21,761. Average daily attendance: 1903, 24,856; 1902, 22,573; 1901, 19,451. Pubhc schools: 1903, 665; 1902, 603; 1901, 599. Teachers: 1903, 757; 1902, 712; 1901, 671. Expenditures: 1903, $287,545; 1902, $324,784; 1901, $202,882. Receipts from all sources: 1903, $454,342; 1902, $424,365. Average school term four months; average salary paid teachers, 156 a month; total value of all school property, $2,- 071,702; enrollment of pupils in all of the schools, 42,925; an- nual expenditures for all of the schools, $722,048; total expen- ditures for the public schools the jjast three years, $815,212. Churches. The Roman Catholic Church in New Mexico has one arch, bishop, one bishop, one vicar general, forty-six priests, and forty -three secular priests. It has forty-two churches with resident priests, 325 mission churches, six academies for young girls, one college, eight parochical schools, two board- THE LAXD OF SUNSHINE. 19 ing schools for Indians, with 300 pupils, two day schools for Indians, with 200 pupils; two academies for boys. Presbj'terian. forty-seven congregations, thirty preaching stations, 2,225 members; 1,936 Sunday school members; value of school propert}^ Sh6,500; twentj'-four mission schools taught by fortj'-five teachers, and an enrollment of 1,750 13upils. The Protestant Episcopal Church has jDarishes in all of the larger towns and is doing energetic missionary work. New Mexico and Arizona form a missionary diocese, with episco- pal headquarters at Phoenix, Arizona. Methodist E^^iscopal, seventeen English speaking congrega- tions, a number of Spanish speaking congregations and sev- eral mission schools. Baptist Churches thirty-six, of which four became self sup- porting during the past year, one college, and a number of mission schools. Lutheran Churches three. Mormons, two churches, with 277 souls. A few scattered members in addition at Bloomfield. The Congregational, five churches, 302 members, six mis- sion schools, 500 jDupils. The Christian and other Protestant denominations have about twenty congregations in the Territor3^ The Hebrews have synagogues at Las Vegas and Albuquer- que, and have church organizations in three or four of the larger cities. The number of Hebrews in the Territorj^ is 695. Newspapers. There are seventy-five newspapers published in New Mex- ico, six of them daily, sixty-four weekly, and five monthly. Five of the daily papers have a complete Associated Press service. New Towns. The many new towns that have been founded, since the coming of railroads to New Mexico and their steady growth, are proof that the Territory is not standing still. Within the THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 21 last five years, cities and towns like Alamogordo, Portales, Tucumcari, Capitan, Estancia, Artesia and Roy have been founded, while Roswell, Carlsbad, Gallup, Aztec and many others are settlements of recent birth, and it is onlj" in the past two decades that Albuquerque, Las Vegas and Raton have de- veloped from small villages into hustling, progressive cities. Banks. The following twentj^-one national banks, fifteen of them es- tablished since 1900, are today doing business in New Mexico. The date of their establishment and their paid-up capital are given, not including surplus or undivided profits: First Na- tional Bank of Alamogordo, Otero county, established 1900, capital $36,800; First National Bank, Albuquerque, Bernalillo county, 1878, $200,000; State National Bank, Albuquerque, 1904, 1100,000; First National Bank, Artesia, 1904, $25,000; First National Bank, Belen, 1903, $25,000; First National Bank, Carlsbad, 1900, $50,000; National Bank of Carlsbad, 1903, $30,- 000; First National Bank, Clayton, 1900, $50,000: Deming Na- tional Bank, Deming, 1903, $10,000; First National Bank, Farm- ington, 1902, $25,000; First National Bank, Las Vegas, 1879, $100,000; San Miguel National Bank, Las Vegas, 1880, $100,000; First National Bank, Portales, 1902, $25,000; First National Bank, Raton, 1902, $75,000; First National Bank, Roswell, 1892, $50,000; Citizens' National Bank, Roswell, 1902, $50,000; Ros- well National Bank, 1903, $50,000; First National Bank, Santa Fe, 1870, $150,000; First Naticmal Bank, Santa Rosa, 1902, $25,- 000; Silver City National Bank, Silver City, 1886, $50,000; First National Bank, Tucumcari, 1902, $25,000. The following were the state banks doing business in the Territory on July 1, 1904, and their capital stock: Andrew Mor- t(m & Company, Springer, $5,000; Bank of Deming, Deming, $30,000; Bank of Commerce, Albuquerque, $82,400; Exchange Bank, White Oaks, $30,000; Bank of Portales, Portales, $30,- 000; Plaza Trust & Savings Bank, Las Vegas, $15,000; Sierra County Bank, Hillsboro, $30,000; J. N. Broyles, San Marcial, $20,000; Las Vegas Savings Bank, Las Vegas, $30,0(X); Silver City Savings Bank, Silver City, $15,000. H < Eh <^ E-i < O H W O o E-t o o w E-I < m CHAPTER III. THE LAND OF HEALTH AND SUNSHINE. nEW MEXICO invites metaphors, it compels superla- tives. Bathed in sunshine, swept by the cool winds of the mountains, endow^ed with untold mineral wealth, colored with the hues of the sunset and hal- lowed by the romance of the Conquistadores and the Francis- cans, it stands unique among the commonwealths of the Union. The Land of Sunshine, one talented author calls it; the Land of Poco Tiempo, the Land of Sunshine, Silence and Adobe; the Land of the Turquoise Sky; the Land of the Con- quistadores; the Land of the Pueblos; the Land of the Sun King, and many more have been the attempts to coin a dis- tinctive phrase that would characterize the vivid impression that New Mexico's cUmatological, physical and ethnological characteristics make upon the visitor. ''The Land of Health and Sunshine,"' comes, perhaps, closest in summarizing what gives the Territory its distinctive atmosphere. But there are volumes of romance, of history, of scenic beauties, of climate, of natural wealth, of progress, that can be written and have been written with New Mexico as their subject. But after all has been said, the fact remains, that it is climate and sun- shine, that set the Territory apart from the other common- wealths; that directly or indirectly influence all its indus- tries, all its activities, its very nature. Nowhere else in the world is there found a more perfect chmate and but few sec- tions can boast of a climate as good. It is not only a lovely day now and then, not only a tine summer or a pleasant winter, but a perfect ah-the-year around chmate that is making New Mexico the sanitarium of the world, the refuge of those stricken by one or the other of the many forms of lung, throat and nervous troubles and of invalids from other causes. It is this fact which must be borne constantly in mind when read- ing of New Mexico's resources, developed and undeveloped wealth, and its manifold industries, as they are briefly out- lined in this volume. H CO O « K •< H 21 O 2; « o I— ( « Pu en H o O K W O ^ K < EH o o X H H H EH O EH H Q <1 O THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 29 square miles within the hmits of New Mexico. The period during which these volcanic rocks were erupted extended from the late Tertiary down probably to within the time of the settlement of America by Europeans. Only in the southern extremity of the Sangre de Cristo range is it thought that true Archaean rocks are exposed. Possibly, also some of the basement crystallines of the Mogo- llon and Burro mountains in western New Mexico, and in the Sierra de los Caballos, in south central New Mexico, may prove to be of Archaean age. Even in these localities, the areas, wiiich may be properly referred to the Archaean, are quite limited in extent. Most of the mountain ranges are great tilted blocks, having one long sloping side, and one steep face, originally a fault scarp. In the abruptly rising faces, considerable portion of the basal part is often found to be made up of quartz plates, micaceous and hornblendic schists, gneisses and granites. The foliation of these highly metamorphosed rocks is usually nearly vertical. When they meet the basal quartzites and limestones above, they are sharply beveled off and the stratifi- cation of the last named beds is nearly at right angles to the planes of lamination beneath. These highly metamorphosed masses are here referred to the Algonkian age. They are more or less mineralized in the various mountain systems. They contain many of the exten- sive deposits of copper, iron, silver, gold and some of the rarer metals. These rocks are well displayed in the Sandia, Manzano, San Andreas, Magdalena, Caballos, Black Range, Sangre de Cristo, Sacramento and other ranges. In central New Mexico, in the Sandia, Caballos, and San Andreas ranges, there is a massive quartzite, fifty to one hundred feet in thickness, the lower part of which is a con- glomerate, lying between the carboniferous limestone and the metamorphics. It is conformable with the limestones immediately above it. This quartzite member reposes upon the upturned ages of the Algonkian formations, indicating clearly that an enormous erosion interval separates the two. In some mountain ranges this quartzite carries important copper deposits. On the whole the carboniferous rocks of New Mexico are FALLS OF THE NAMBE, NORTH OF SANTA FE. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 31 very important formations. They are found in the majority of the principal mountain ranges. In most locahties they are important ore carriers. As guide horizons they deserve the fullest considerati(m in the location of mines. Four import- ant series of formations belonging to the carboniferous sys- tem have been clearly made out in New Mexico. They re- present the lower carboniferous, the middle carboniferous, the upper carboniferous and Oklahoman series. The nether series of the carboniferous has been clearly differentiated in a number of localities. Principal of these places is Lake Valley, in Sierra county. In the Sacramento mountains the faunal equivalent of the Burlington limestone of the Missis- sippi Valley is well exposed. The great limestone plates which cap the princijial moun- tain ranges in central New Mexico, and which form their back slopes, are carboniferous in age. Immediately beneath the great limestone formations is found, usually a white quartzite, which often passes downward into a coarse conglomerate. The quartzite, with its coarse phase, rests unconformably on the upturned edges of the metamori^hic series. The great limestones are easily distinguishable by their black and blue to gray color, their peculiar compact texture, and the fossils which they contain. The thickness of the lime- stone is from 300 to probably 1,000 feet. It is massively bedded, and in some localities contains some very thick beds of pure wiiitish lime rock. This great limestone formation forms a remarkable cornice on the Sandia mountains, clearly seen from the railroad sta- tion at Albuquerque. It is also an important part of the Man zano, Magdalena, Socorro, Caballos, Ladrones, San Andreas and Sacramento ranges. In most of the districts the carboniferous limestone carries imjiortant lead and silver deposits. The quartzite also carries copper. Above the blue limestones of the carboniferous comes in an important sandstone, and then a sequence of shales and sand- stones conspicuous for their remarkable red coloration. "Red beds'' they are generally called. These Permo-carboniferous red beds are found everywhere at the foot of the back slope of the central New Mexico moun- CD <1 o w > < K < W Q < O « W H o « o I— I w o CO THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 33 tain ranges. They are 200 to 1,000 feet thick and often form a conspicuous feature in the landscape. In the Sandia mountains the lower sandstone is called the Coyote sandstone from Coyote Springs, and the upper mem- ber of the Bernalillo shales. These red sandstones and shales are notable for the copper ores everywhere distributed through them. There appears to be small doubt that the upper part of the great formation, long called the "red beds," belongs to a later geological age than the carboniferous. American geologists prefer to denominate the lower part of the Threefold Mesc- zoic the Jura-Trias. In New Mexico these beds are largely developed in the northeastern part in the Cimarron, Canadian and Pecos Val- leys, and in the central part in the Rio Grande Valley. In thickness the measurement is probably greatly in excess of 500 feet. The important ore deposits are chiefly those of copjoer and iron. Gypsum, fire clays and cement materials abound. The cretaceous formations are the most extensive surface rocks in New Mexico. They probably cover more than one- half of the whole area. Both the upper and lower cretaceous sediments are well represented. In the Canadian and Pecos Valleys, particularly around the western and northern borders of the Llano Estacado, there lies above the "red beds"' a remarkable sequence of sands, chalky rocks and clays. These have been called the Trinity sands at the base, the Fredericksburg limestone, and the Washita sands. At the base of the upper cretaceous is a thick sandstone at least 300 feet in thickness. This is one of the chief artesian well reservoirs. In northeastern New Mexico particularly, the Colorado formation is w^ell defined. It there attains a thickness of fully 800 feet. It comprises chiefly shales with numerous bands of hmestbne and several thick sandstones. Attaining a development of 1,500 feet in northeastern New Mexico, the Montana is well represented by at least two im- portant terranes, known further north as the Pierre shales and the Fox Hills sandstones. The shales are prevailingly < o H ■n y THE LAND OF SUNSHINF:. 35 gray and drab, becoming yellowish above and blackish below. Here the beds generally referred to the Laramie are upward of 2,000 feet in thickness. The rocks are chiefly gray sand- stones and shales, with numerous beds of coal. Most of the coal of the region is believed to belong to the Laramie age. The coals of the Raton, Dawson, Cerrillos, Carthage and the Bear mountains are all regarded as Laramie coals. In northeastern New Mexico and in the Rio Grande Valley there are two large areas of gray shales which reach a maxi- mum thickness of over 800 feet. The}^ have been referred to the early Tertiary, and are called the Puerco series. The later Tertiary beds are widely distributed. The Llano Estacado formation of eastern New Mexico, over 800 feet in thickness, appears to belong to this age. On Galisteo creek, south of Santa Fe, certain sands are referred to the Neocene, as are the Santa Fe marls so extensively^ developed north of the City of Santa Fe. The marls extend down the valley of the Rio Grande at least as far as Socorro. New Mexico is pre-eminently a mountain country. Geolo- gically its mountains are interesting on account of their valu- able mineral deposits; toiDographically, on account of being the sources of the life giving rivers, without which the Ter- ritory would be a desert. River Systems. The Rio Grande, which bisects the Territory, with its tribu- taries, comprises the most important river system. It rises in Colorado and empties into the Gulf of Mexico, about 500 miles of its course being in New Mexico. In its valley and tributary valleys lives one-half of the population of the Terri- tory, and with its tributaries it furnishes the irrigation water for one-half of the land under cultivation in New Mexico. During flood seasons, it carries an immense amount of water that spreads over the lowlands, but during the dry season, it dwindles into insignificance in many places, although a large volume of water flows under the sand}^ bed at all times. In the northern part of its course the river flows through precip- itous canons, opening into the Espanola Valley, and then be- comes contracted again in the White Rock canon. South of this, the valley grows wider and the stream more sluggish, f?rr:<'r Tf^-y^^Ml'l I I ISFT 1 III' H Cm < < m • I <1 P Q Q iz; <1 ' '.-k.i *!ff m K H O < o « O o H O Q W M Q Q hJ O C5 ^ -( THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 39 river. Its principal tributaries, tlie Cimarron, the Vermejo, the Ocate and the Mora, carry a considerable amount of water, while there are a number of lesser tributaries, perennial in their flow in their upper courses. These streams have more or less the characteristics of mountain streams, with rock bottoms. Still, they have considerable underflow, and as the Canadian approaches the eastern boundary, its waters seep into the sandy bed and its tributaries are mere arroyos. Next in importance to the Canadian, and exceedmg it in volume of w^ater, is the San Juan system in the northwestern part. The principal tributaries of this river in New Mexico are the Las Animas and the La Plata. The waters of the San Juan eventually find their way into the Colorado river and the Pacific ocean. To the Pacific slope also belongs the Gila system in south- western New Mexico. In addition there are a number of in- dependent river courses, which do not make their way to the ocean, either directly or indirectly. The most important of these is the Mimbres, in the southern part of the Territory? which in its lower source has a strong underflow that is to be tapped in the near future to furnish the City of El Paso, in Texas, with water. These rivers and streams are the arteries upon whose flow the very existence of the Territory depends. They differ in many respects from rivers in the east, owing to peculiarities of climate, of soil and the uses to which their waters are put. So called arroyos or dry water courses, furrow New Mexico in every direction, in addition to the rivers and streams. These arroyos carry water only after rains or when the snow is melting in the mountains. Most of them have an underflow but ordinarily they appear to the eye, as rivers that have been dried up by the sun and the winds. Irrigation. Excepting in a few mountain valleys and ujDon high mesas, irrigation is necessary to the successful pursuit of agricul- ture. Irrigation permits the application of water to crops when they need it. That this is the ideal condition under which to raise crops goes without saying, and is proven by .'i.OOO years of history THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 41 in Egypt, Italy, the East Indies and China. No excessive moisture, no drouth, worries the husbandman who possesses an irrigation right in a perennial stream or w4io has fortified himself with a reservoir. Irrigation means intensive farming, it means that the land will be fertilized at the same time that it is watered, it means certain crops and a maximum produc- tion per acre. In its jjerfection, agriculture by irrigation, is as distinct an advance upon the methods of agriculture in the more humid states, as manufacturing with machinery is over manual labor. When it is remembered that out of a total area of over 78,000,000 acres only about a quarter million are in actual cultivation under irrigation ditches, then it W'ill be seen that there is a vast opening for enterprise in reclaiming broad areas of as fertile lands as God ever created, lying under a perfect sky, and in a well nigh perfect climate. Nor is there a lack of water for reclaiming at least a portion of the vast and domain. The flood waters which flow to waste annually, the ordinary flow of rivers and streams that is wasted or not util- ized, the tremendous underflow in most of the broad valleys of the Territory, the feasibility and cheapness of pumping w^ater from unfailing wells in many sections, ^and the un- doubted existence of large artesian belts, all promise that sooner or later a large j^artof New Mexico will be under suc- cessful irrigation. Sufficient data have been gathered and published in the report of the Territorial commission of irrigation in 1898 and by the United States geological survey to make it quite prac- tical to pick out the most available reservoir sites and to de- termine upon projects, which at a minimum cost would benefit the greatest number of people. The Territory may properly be divided into three distinct regions, the eastern plains, the Rio Grande Valley and the western plateaus. The eastern portion is an extension of the high plains of Texas, broken by the w'aters of the Canadian and Pecos rivers. This broad stretch of open grazing land continues to the uplands which form the southern extension of the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. This portion is a favored section for the cattle growers and sheep raisers. Beyond this broken country is the Rio Grande THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 43 valley, and still further west are elevated arid table lands. These extend to the mountains, which lie about the headwaters of the Gila and Salt rivers. In the extreme northwestern part of the Territory, where are the fertile valleys of the San Juan river and its tributaries, there has been recently a consider- able development of irrigation. In the Rio Grande section there a few very large irrigation canals and many small community ditches held by the Indians and small settlers. The origin of these ditches is lost, even in local tradition, and it is probable that many more of them were in use before the advent of the Spaniards. Under the community system each ditch is held and controlled by the owners of the land it irrigates, these living usually together in a village or pueblo. In the fall of each year a mayordomo is elected, who has full control of the ditch for the following season. He assesses the land for the labor necessary to clean the ditch and to keep it in repair during the irrigation season, apportions the water to each consumer according to the local conditions, and in general supervises all matters pertaining to irrigation. While the apportionment of labor varies, it is gen- erally such that a farmer holding a tract of six acres is requir- ed to furnish the labor of one man in cleaning and repairing the entire ditch in the spring, while he who holds twelve acres furnishes a man's labor when necessary during the whole season. The ditches have no regular gates or sluices, and flooding is the only means of irrigation. Consequently^, the use of water is extremely wasteful. The developnient of the agricultural resources depends largely upon the control of the Rio Grande. The seepage and inflow from streams maintain the river at a good volume in northern New Mexico. Sites suitable for reservoirs along the Rio Grande and its principal tributaries are frequent, and several of them excellent. Large dams constructed at these points would render it possible to hold large quantities of water for the irrigation of a number of open valleys along the course of the river. Some of these reservoir sites have been surveyed. Irrigation on the eastern plain is of comparatively recent introduction. The water supply is drawn from the Canadian and Pecos rivers. The Canadian river flows through a valley THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. -15 200 miles in length within the Territory. Irrigation ditches in this drainage basin are confined almost wholly to the tribu- taries, the course of the main stream being for the most part through a canon, from which it does not emerge until it nears the boundary. Important irrigation systems are sup- plied by the Cimarron, Vermejo, Mora and Conchas rivers, those of the two first mentioned streams being among the most extensive in the Territory. Two large canals, con- structed by a corporation, are located on the Maxwell grant, a tract containing 1,491,755 acres of grazing, agricultural, tim- ber and mineral lands, including within its boundaries the headwaters of the Canadian, Vermejo and Cimarron rivers. Along the line of these canals is a series of natural basins or ancient lake-beds, favorably situated, in which large quanti- ties of water are stored. Many smaUer natural reservoir sites, located at elevations where evaporation is comparatively slight, are found near the headwaters of nearly all the streams which originate in this basin. Eleven reservoirs, with a com- bined capacity of 5,000 acre feet, have been constructed on the Vermejo. On the Cimarron there are thirteen individual ditches and one corporation ditch. Connected with these are four storage reservoirs, with an aggregate capacity of 6,000 acre feet. The area ii-rigated by the ditches of this stream is 7,628 acres. The Mora river and its tributaries supply water for practically all the irrigation systems in Mora county. Two ditches have been constructed, by which, during the periods of greater scarcity, water is taken from the Rio del Pueblo in Taos county and diverted through passes in the mountains. All the ditches along the Mora and its tributaries are either private or community ditches. The Pecos river becomes a considerable stream at its con- fluence with the Gallinas. As the river has mountain sources, the flow in the upper portion of its basin is perennial; but shortly after it emerges from the highlands much of its water is lost by seepage and for several months in the year this part of the river bed carries very little water. In the lower part of its course in New Mexico the Pecos receives large quantities of water from numerous springs, which are a notable feature, many of them emerging from the earth with such volume and force as to prove beyond question s THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 47 that they come from the drainage waters of the high precipi- tous mountain ranges on the west. The following are the principal tributaries of the Pecos, several of them furnishing a constant supply: Mora, Agua Negra, Agua Negra Chiquita, Rio Hondo, Berendo rivers (north, middle and south), the Sjoring rivers (north and south), Penasco, Seven rivers, Rocky Arroyo and Black river. The drainage area of the catchment basin of the Pecos river lying within the Territory and available for irrigation purposes is estimated at 20,000 square miles. 'It extends along four de- grees of latitude, with varying altitudes of from 3,000 to 11,- 000 feet. In the valley between Roswell and the territorial line, many of the lands subject to irrigation are of excellent quality. In the western plateau region the total number of acres irrigated is small compared with the other two main divisions of the Territory. The waters affording supply for this region are the San Juan, the Gila, the Zuni and the Mimbres rivers. The lands irrigated by the San Juan river are in the northern part of San Juan county. The sources of this river are in the San Juan and La Plata mountains in Colorado, and the afflu- ents which it receives from the south are unimportant. Near the Colorado line the San Juan has a mean flow of 960 cubic feet per second. This is augmented by the waters of the Rio de los Pinos, which has an estimated flow of eighty cubic feet per second. The most important tributary is the Las Animas, which has a normal flow at a point below Aztec of 855 cubic ' feet per second. While the flow of all these streams is perennial, it fluctuates with the seasons, being increased by the melting snows in the spring, and later by the rains which usually occur in the latter part of July and in August. In the drainage basin of the San Juan there are fifty-two ditches, located as follows: On the Las Animas twenty ditches irrigating 7,132 acres; on the San Juan nineteen, irrigating 3,999 acres; and on the La Plata fifteen, irrigating 3, 0(13. The total area irrigated by the San Juan and its tributaries is 14,734 acres. The Gila river rises in the Black and Mimbres ranges and in Grant county flows for the most part through narrow THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 49 mountain valleys. The total acreage irrigated by it is 5,933 acres. The How is permanent and only a small portion is used. Tn Grant county a considerable acreage is irrigated by the Rio Mimbres. This stream flows southward through the county to within a few miles of Deming, then turns abruptly to the east and discharges its waters upon the Florida plains, where they are lost in the sands. Between the basins of the Gila and the San Juan rivers, there is a small area drained by the Zuni river. Portions of this area are irrigated by the Zuni Indians. The government is constructing a reservoir for the Pueblo Indians on the Zuni reservation which will impound sufficient water to irrigate 6,000 acres. Of the 78,374,000 acres of land surface in New Mexico, only 6,000,000 or 6.5 per cent, are included in farms and only 400,- 000 are improved. Of the improved land 385,000 acres are located outside of the Indian reservations. The importance of irrigation is demonstrated by the fact that the irrigated area outside of the Indian reservations is only a little more than 250,000 acres. In 1889 the corresponding irrigated area was but 91,755 acres. Of the farms of the Territory 72.2 per cent, are wholly or partially irrigated, while of the imjjroved acreage 57.2 per cent, are irrigated. The average area of improved land in such irrigated farms is thirty-three acres, of which twenty-six are irrigated. The average number of acres of irrigated land for each mile of ditch reported is eighty-six. The area under ditch for each mile is 272 acres, or over three times the average irrigated area. In many states where there is a larger percentage of new irrigation enterprises than in this Territory the area irri- gated bears a much smaller ratio to the area under ditch. In the sections of New Mexico where irrigation has been prac- ticed for centuries the effect on the old canals of the diversion of water at points farther up the stream is shown by the dif- ference between acreage under ditch and acreage actually irrigated. This is especially evident along the Rio Grande. On the other hand, in the valleys of the Pecos and San Juan rivers and their tributaries, the difference is due to the pres- ence of new enterprises. H l-H o w u > (—) w ■< w o o Hi o H t— I O THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 51 The average cost of constructing the ditches is $1,738 per mile and $6.40 per acre of land under ditch. Of the 12,311 farms, excluding those in the Indian reserva- tions, 9,128 are irrigated and 3, 183 are unirrigated. The acres in the irrigated farms number 2,892,855; in the unirrigated, 238,023. Live stock on the irrigated farms has a value of $15,785,760, and on the unirrigated, $15,941,640. Irrigated farms are, in number 74 per cent, of the total in the Territory; in acreage 56.4; in value of land and improvements, exclusive of buildings, 77.8; in implements and machinery, 75.9; in live stock 49.7; and in total farm wealth, 64.5 per cent. The average size of all farms, exclusive of those held by In- dians, is 464 acres, and that of irrigated farms, 380 acres. The irrigated farms make greater use of the public domain for grazing purposes than do those which are unirrigated, and an income is thus secured in addition to that obtained directly from the land owned and leased. Sufficient has been done in irrigation to demonstrate what might be and eventually will be accomplished. The irrigation works in the lower Pecos Valley are the greatest and best in the United States. They have placed under ditch an area equal to the entire number of acres now under cultivation in the Territory; they have built cities and villages, turned a desert into a garden and created millions of dollars of wealth where formerl}^ there was but an unproductive waste. And yet, this is only the beginning, even for this section of the Territory. Here, on the Rio Hondo, the United States govern- ment is about to build a $350,000 reservoir and irrigation works. On the Maxwell land grant in Colfax county, equal progress has been madejn building irrigation works on scientific prin- ciples'^and the results are similar to those achieved in the Pecos Valle3^ In San Juan county there are miles upon miles of irrigation canals while many more miles are being added without exhausting the available water supply. For the Pueblo, as well as the Navajo Indians, the national government is'constructing such reservoirs and irrigation canals; and it w^ill undertake the same work in the near future for the white settlers. In the Rio Grande Valley and the valleys of its tri- butaries and along every brook and river are irrigation sys- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 53 terns, some of them primitive aiifl wasteful, it is true, and sooner or later to be supplanted by scientific irrigation, yet, sufficient to demonstrate that New Mexico is first of all an agricultural commonwealth. It was the first to practice irri- gation and will be the greatest beneficiary eventually under the reclamation policy so recently inaugurated by the national government. But New Mexico does not depend altogether upon water from flowing streams or stored flood waters for the moisture to raise its crops. Besides a number of valleys and mesas where the rainfall is sufficient to raise crops, there are extensive artesian areas, developed to their greatest extent in Chaves and Eddy counties where there are scores of flowing wells, but existing also in Colfax county and about to be developed in other sections. Besides flowing wells, there are inexhaustible wells in which the water does not rise quite to the surface, such as have given Deming the name of the Windmill Cit3\ Then there is a great underground flow in nearly every river valley, which is available by pumping. Experiments successfully conducted at the Agricultural Ex- periment Station at Mesilla Park, have demonstrated that water sufficient for irrigation purposes can be raised with a gasoline pump at a maximum cost of from fifty-one to fifty-four cents an acre, the well being forty-eight feet deep. When it is considered that in India 6,000,000 acres are irrigated from wells by pumping, it can be seen what a future there is for New Mexico in agricultural development alone. CHAPTER IV. f INDUSTRIES. Agriculture. CHE up-to-date New Mexico farmer is the aristocrat of his craft. With twenty or thirty acres of fertile land and ample irrigation rights he is independent. He fears neither excessive moisture nor drouth, neither hard times nor panics. There is always a good market in which his products command top prices and as to crop failure, it is out of the question, if he knows his business. New Mexico is attracting more attention today than at any former time on account of its agricultural possibihties. Home- seekers are coming to the Territory in great numbers, taking up and purchasing large areas of land in valleys, and building new agricultural communities of ccmsiderable importance. Forty-one per cent of the people in the Territory pursuing gainful occupations are engaged in agricultural pursuits— quite a creditable showing. In the great agricultural state of Ilhnois, having a population of 2,80-4,040 engaged in gainful occupations, there are 862,781 persons, or only thirty-one per cent., as against forty-one per cent, in New Mexico, who are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The area and valuation of farm lands and the value of farm property in New Mexico has materially increased since 1890, as is shown in the following table: 1890 1900 a b Total number of farms 4,458 11,834 Acres in farms 7S2,882 5,130,878 Total value of farm property $33,543,141 $53,737,824 Lands, fences and buildings 8,140,800 20,888,814 Implements and machinery 291,140 1,151,610 Live stock on hand June 1 25,111,202 31,727,400 a. Not le39 than three acres, reporting not less than $500 gross income. b. Not less than three acres, and repofliny the sale of not less than $500 in produce. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 57 This shows that from 1890 to 1900 the number of farms in- creased 165 per cent., the area of farm lands 550 per cent., the total value of farm property 60 per cent., the value of lands with their improvements 156 per cent., the value of implements and machiner}' 295 per cent., and the value of live stock 26 per cent. These figures give an idea of the rapid develop- ment, and the^' are also indicative of what maj' be ex- pected in the future. Another matter that is well worthj^ of record here is the fact that the producing capabilities per capita of those engaged in agricultural i)ursuits have increased amazingly. The annual value of farm products increased in the ten years, 1890 to 1900, from nearly 82,000,000 to a little over S10,000,000,or an increase of 400 jDer cent in the ten years, while the agricultural population has not increased 100 per cent. The following table taken from the twelfth United States census will give some idea of the importance of several of the leading Xew Mexico crojDS during the census year of 1900 : Value Acres Bushels Total cereals 81,077^77 96,210 Corn 519,936 41,345 677,305 Wheat 390,616 37,907 603,303 Oats 154,347 15,848 342,777 Barley 12,475 1,110 23,107 Hay and forage 1,427,317 87,458 Beans .7 73,001 3,349 Peas 20,365 2,220 Sugar beets 16,859 1,298 Irish potatoes 49,552 1,122 72,613 Sweet potatoes 4,588 47 6,180 Orchard products 197,331 Flowers and plants 5,300 11 Nurseries 4,343 22 Vegetables 27?^,413 6,501 Not classified 33,717 Alfalfa. Much has been written about alfalfa. It is known more or less in every state in the Union. Alfalfa is grown in all the irri- MONUMENT ROCK, PECOS FOREST RESERVE. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 59 gated sections of New Mexico up to an altitude of 8,000 feet. It is grown considerably in dvy[farming sections where there is no irrigation. In New Mexico alfalfa does well in almost every class of soil. The chemical constituents of the soil seem to have little to do with the growth of the crop, provided the surface is level and the proper amount of water is given. It grows well on light, sandy loam, as well as on the heaviest adobe. It is said by an able writer that alfalfa will not stand "wet feet." That is true if he means that it would not grow in a water-logged soil. Where the soil is well drained it will ex- tend its roots to the water table and grow luxuriantly where the water table is only a few feet below the surface of the ground. The area of alfalfa in New Mexico increased from 12,139 acres in 1890 to 55,467 in 1900. The average annual yield in the Ter- ritory is about three tons per acre. The cost of production, including taxes, water rent, growing, harvesting, bahng and placing on board the car, does not exceed $i per ton. There are some large alfalfa farmers who are able to place alfalfa on the car at a much less figure because they have perfected their system of irrigation and handle the hay with improved machinery. The net profit in growing alfalfa under irrigation is consid- erably larger than the average net profits realized on wheat and corn in the older agricultural sections. It is a crop that requires little labor, if the field has been made level and the soil well prepared before seeding, after which the operations are simple, resolving themselves into irrigation and harvest- ing. On many soils, one irrigation will produce one crop, which may vary from one-half to two and one-half tons per acre. The price of alfalfa varies in different parts of the Ter- ritory, depending upon the production, amount consumed by stock being fattened, and the shipping facilities. The demand for alfalfa, aside from that of local consumption, comes from cities and towns, mining and railroad camps, and the thousands of isolated stock ranches scattered over the arid and semi-arid sections, as well as a considerable demand from portions of Texas and the Republic of Mexico. At harvest time the price of alfalfa is comparatively low, usually not exceeding $8 per ton, but the forehanded farmer who holds his product until winter, usually gets from §10 to §13 per ton. Alfalfa farming THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 61 has proven very attractive and profitable, and it is not sur- prising that the area increased from 12,000 to 55,000 acres in ten years. As to the feeding value of alfalfa it is conceded throughout the country that it leads all other forage crops in its total digestible food constituents and nitrogen contents. Corn. Corn stands next to alfalfa in acreage and value of total pro- duct. Where water for irrigation is plencif ul the yield of corn in New Mexico compares favorably with the yield of this crop in the corn belt. Kaffir corn grows as well if not better than ordinary corn. In some sections of the Territory it is grown almost exclu- sively for feeding stock. In the Pecos valley, Kaffir corn is one of the leading crops. It yields from twenty-five to fifty bushels per acre, besides producing a large quantity of ex- cellent stover. Both the grain and stover are fed to cattle and sheep in the fattening pens. Kaffir corn is an excellent drouth resister. Sorghum also yields good crops and in many localities is grown for its sugar contents. W^heat. Wheat is a sure crop in New Mexico if sown early. The yield of wheat per acre is equal to the yield in the leading wheat growing states. New Mexico wheat received first pre- mium at the World's Fair at Chicago and at other expositions. Before the building of the railroads the Taos and other val- leys were considered the granaries of the southwest. All of the cereal crops will grow here. Potatoes. By many the potato has been considered an impossible crop,, and yet the value of the potato crop in 1903 was nearly $50,- 000. The difficulties in growing potatoes seem to be those of varieties and management under irrigation. Colorado failed in its first attempt to grow potatoes, but now this crop forms an important source of wealth in the Centennial State. Sweet, potatoes are grown without difficulty. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 63 Vegetables. New Mexico produces vegetables as . well as the staple crops, and wherever water for irrigation can be had, most vegetables do well. While truck gardening is not carried on very extensively, it is nevertheless increasing every year. Celery can be grown to perfection in those parts of the Ter- ritory where the soil and climatic conditions are favorable and where some care in growing it is exercised. Among the best known celery growing sections are Santa Fe, the Rio Grande Valley and Roswell. The latter place is probably the most noted for its celery. It produces a large quantity, but not enough to supply the demand. It is claimed that the Roswell celery is superior to the product from California and Louis- iana, and will sell equally as well in the markets outside of the Territory. Fine Rocky Ford cantaloupes are raised here. Cantaloupe growing is getting to be quite a business in the southern por- tion of the Territory. Some are grown at Las Cruces for the early market, which are shipped mostly to the local markets in the Territory, but the large areas are found at Carlsbad and Roswell. From these points carloads of cantaloupes are sent to the eastern markets. It seems that there is no ma- terial difference between the New Mexico and the Colorado Rocky Ford cantaloupes. New Mexico, however, has the ad- vantage of Rocky Ford in as much as the cantaloupes can be placed on the markets earlier. The tomato grows well and is quite an important crop. While it is grown more or less in all sections the largest fields are in the Mesilla Valley. A canning factory is estab- lished at Las Cruces which cans a large quantity of excellent tomatoes. The canned tomatoes are sold in New Mexico, Texas, Arizona, Colorado and other states. The demand for these tomatoes is greater than the supply. The canned pro- duct has also added to the reputation of the Territory. New Mexico is also known for the superior onions which it produces. While at present the area planted to onions is very limited, and the production insufficient to supply even one- tenth part of the home consumption, there is a bright future for it, and the chances are that it will become a crop of great THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 65 commercial value. Probably the Rio Grande Valley is the largest onion-growing district, and here is where the old "El Paso" onion which has given New Mexico a reputation as an onion-raising section, grows so well. It is not infrequent to see specimens weighing one and one half pounds. The yield per acre is large. The results of the Agricultural Experiment Station show that such varieties as the Red Victoria will pro- duce 32,000 pounds per acre. In floriculture marked and rapid strides are being made, particularly in home adornment. Many of the flowering plants, like the rose, violet, chrysanthemum and sweet peas do well. Dairying. Dairying has kept pace with the demand in the vicinity of cities and towms where the products are sold in the form of milk and cream. There is not enough butter and cheese manu- factured, however, to supply the demand, although there has been a considerable increase in their production. In 1889 there were manufactured 10'), 000 pounds of butter and cheese; this number swelled to 380,000 pounds in 1899. Poultry and Poultry Products. Annually thousands of dollars are poured into the pockets of Kansas and Nebraska farmers in payment for poultry and eggs consumed here, yet the Territory is well adapted to the raising of poultry. It has most of the advantages with but few of the disadvantages of other sections. Insect pests are no worse, while disease is rare. Prices are high, being governed by the price of the foreign product plus the transportation charges, therefore the home product has the best of it. It is evident that the New Mexico farmer is taking advantage of these favorable conditions, for the number of dozens of eggs produced increased from 1890 to 1900 from 280,000 to 840,000, yet there is need of a greatly increased production to supply the demand. Apiarian Products. With mild winters and abundant bee pasture, in the form of alfalfa, tornillo, etc., the apiarian products have increased over sixfold in ten years and are of considerable importance all H o w w > I— ( en EH < o o w o CO K O O O W THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 67 over the cultivated areas. Bee culture and the production of honey is very profitable and a pursuit especially adapted to those who are able to do only light out door work. Horticulture. Fruit growing in the horticultural sections is assuming large proportions, with practically no serious oljstacle in the waj^ of its becoming still greater, provided prosier precautions t ) keep down insect and fungus pests are taken, as is done in other fruit growing states. New Mexico's orchards are equal to, if not superior, to those anywhere in the United States. Of all the fruits, the apple is the most extensive and the most profitable crop. Notwithstanding the topography of the Territory, this fruit is well adapted to the different horticul- tural sections. The counties of San Juan and Santa Fe in the north, Bernalillo and Socorro in the central. Grant, Dona Ana and Otero to the south, and Lincoln and Chaves in the south- east, are favorably' known for their apples. New Mexico is becoming famous not only in the United States, but abroad, for its superior api3les. Its fruit is placed in competition with the world at the great expositions. In 1901 at Buffalo the ap- ples from New Mexico were conspicuous, and the fruit from Roswell, in Chaves county, received a first prize, while in 1900 the New Mexico apples were carried across the continent and the Atlantic Ocean to the Paris exposition. There New Mex- ico was counted in with the best apple growing sections in the Union, as specimen apples from Dona Ana received second premium. This ma}^ give an idea as to the kind of fruit that can be grown in New Mexico. Not only is the fruit of supe- rior quality, but the crops produced are enormous; as a rule the trees tend to overbear. The ajjple orchards vary from small family places to verj' large commercial oi-chards. The larger commercial planta- tions are located in the Mimbres Valley, the Mesilla Valley, San Juan county and at Roswell. The Roswell district, which seems destined to become the largest apple growing section in the southwest, is particularl}^ noted for its large orchards. The largest bearing orchard is that of J. J. Hagerman, and comprises something over 740 acres. The most profitable va- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 69 rieties grown are the winter apples such as the Ben Davis, Gano, Missouri Pippin, Winesap and Mammoth Black Twig. In a lesser degree the early varieties are also prolific; among the leading kinds may be mentioned the Earl}^ Harvest, Red June, Yellow Transparent and the Maiden's Blush. The ap- ples seem to be free from insect pests. ether pomaceous fruits, like the pear and quince, thrive as well as the apple, but these are not so important nor are they planted in such large areas. The pear has a marked adapt- ability, the trees usually bear early, are among the best drouth resisters, and are long lived and hardy. The fruit, especially of the large varieties, like the Bartlett, Idaho, Beurre, Easter, grows very large and is of fine quality. At present the pear is as free from disease and insect pests as the apple. The dreaded pear blight, which is so destructive in the east, has not yet made its appearance here. There is a bright future for the more extensive planting of this fruit. While peaches are grown in all the fruit growing sections, the larger commercial orchards are found in the Mesilla Val- ley, the upper Rio Grande Valley and at Carlsbad. These dis- tricts are especially adapted to certain varieties of peaches which find their way into the Colorado and Kansas City mark- ets. The early- ripening varieties such as the Alexander, Sneed, Waterk)o, Arkansas Traveler and H3"ne's Surprise, are among the successful and sure bearers. This is due to the fact that as a rule the earlj^ varieties are the late bloomers, blooming late enough to escape the late spring frosts. The late ripening peaches ordinarily bloom from eight to ten days earlier than the early kinds. The peach trees usually begin tD bear at three years from the time of planting. The tend- ency of the trees is to overbear and it becomes necessary to thin them in order that the fruit may not be too crowded. In size and quality. New Mexico peaches are not excelled by peaches from the best peach growing states. It is the com- mon opinion of those who have tasted both the California and New Mexico peaches that the latter are the better in quality. The fruit is as a rale highly colored, due perhaps to the more continuous sunshine during the ripening period. The peach is free from the serious diseases and insect pests. Probably the i)r()fitable period of the peach tree in New Mexico, is from THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 71 ten to twelve years. By replanting an orchard at intervals of live to eight years, a profitable orchard can be kept up almost indefinitely. In New Mexico as in other places, where the apricot grows, it has given evidence of a longevity greater than that of any orchard tree, with thepossible exception of the pear tree. It is not uncommon to see very old seedling apricot trees grow- ing in the native home places in the Mesilla Valley, and at Santa Fe seedling apricot trees are known to be about 200 years old. The fruit from the improved kinds is as lai'ge and as good in quality as the California apricots. The Blenheim, Moorpark, Royal, St. Ambroise and Luizet are desirable for hom.e planting. Cherries are only raised on a small scale. The trees of both the sour and sweet groups grow well. Varieties of the sour cherries are the best bearers, but the fruit is not as large as that from the sweet varieties. The sour varieties predomi- nate as they have proven to be more regular and surer bearers. The Early Richmond, English Morello, Ostheim and the Mont- gomery are among the leaders. The plum is making a place for itself. There is a growing demand for it. The tree is perfectly hardy, although there is some variation as to the fruitfulness among the trees of the different types. The three types are, first, the European plum, which is the plum that gives rise to the old varieties, such as the Green Gage, Yellow Egg, Damson and the various prunes; second, the Japanese plums, wdiich are entirely different from the former type; and third, the native type, such as the Wild Goose. As already stated, it is a well established fact that the selection of varieties is an important consideration, and this is particularly true in regard to plums. The European plums do admirably. The trees are thrifty, heavy and sure bearers. These plums are well adapted in every respect to the New Mexico conditions, and large and excellent (juality fruit can be produced. A few of the leading kinds of this group which have been tested are the Clayman, Jefferson, Imperial and Transparent Gage, Yellow ^SS, Pond's Seed- ling, Washington and the French and German prunes. The native plums such as the Wild Goose, Golden Beauty and Pool's Pride, are sure bearers. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. td The Territory is celebrated for its grapes. The European, or the so-called California, grapes succeed well, and these are the kinds grown for the market. The native or American grapes are not so satisfactory for commercial purposes, and are grown only for family use, although at Santa Fe excellent results have been obtained with the Diamond and other native varieties. The European grape has been cultivated for over a century, but its culture generally speaking, has been con- fined to the southern and hotter valleys, and particularly to the Rio Grande Valley from the Texas line to Santa Fe. The varieties that constitute the commercial vineyards are the Missouri, Muscat of Alexandria, and more or less the Gros Colman and Flame Tokay. These grapes are shipped to the Texas, Louisiana and Colorado markets, wiiere they have given New Mexico a rej^utation for fine grapes. The Mis- sion grape, while quite late in ripening, is the most popular and possesses some excellent qualities as a table and wine grape, and is the grape of New Mexico at present. The Rio Grande Valley, and particularly the Mesilla Valley, is espe- cially suited to the grape, and when its possibilities in this direction are more fully understood by the jDeople, New Mexico will becom.e a vast grape producing section. The grape-shipping season extends from about the 20th of Aug- ust till the last of September. This short season is due to the commercial grapes being all midseason varieties. Early and late ripening varieties need to be added to the large vineyards in order to extend the shipping period. There were 1,180 acres in bearing vines in 1900 and 9,000 acres of young vines. Small fruit does Avell and j^ields big profits, especially cur- rants, raspberries and gooseberries, which obtain a size and flavor that are excelled nowhere, nearly all varieties flourish and yield good crops year in and year out. Orchard Crops. There were 719,057 bearing fruit trees in 1900, which pro- duced 263,870 bushels of fruit. The value of all orchard pro- ducts in 1899 was estimated at $197,335. There is a noticeable increase in the amount of dried and evaporated fruits, which indicates that culls and marketable products are being more generally utilized. In the near future New Mexico will prob- THE LAND OP SUNSHINE. 75 ably be able to supply its own markets with jams, jellies, marmalades, etc., manufactured from such fruits as generally go to waste, thus effecting a great saving. Where Agriculture Can be Pursued Successfully. There are many thousands of acres in New Mexico, aside from those already in use, which can be utilized for horticul- tural purposes. The portions of the Territory which are suited to horticulture are the river bottoms or valleys and the smaller valleys along the mountain streams. There are also large areas, commonly known as the mesas or uplands, which have the finest soil, and which would produce good crops. The largest horticultural districts are the Rio Grande Valley, extending from Embudo to the Texas line, taking in portions of the counties of Rio Arriba, Santa Fe, Sandoval, Bernalillo, Valencia, Socorro, Sierra and Doiia Ana; the Pecos Valley, mostly in the counties of Chaves and Eddy, the Animas and the San Juan Valleys in San Juan county and the Mimbres Valley in Grant county. Other notable but smaller sections are found in the counties of Colfax, Otero, Lincoln, Rio Arriba, Taos, Mora and San Miguel. The altitude of these different parts ranges from 3,000 to 7,500 feet. The soil varies from a sandy loam to a heavy clay, and is ordinarily fertile enough to produce good crops if water is obtainable for irrigation. Its fertility is demonstrated by the rank and rapid growth of the trees and plants. Since New Mexico lies in the arid zone the rainfall being insufftcient cannot be depended upon for the growing of fruits and vegetables. Occasionally, in the mountain districts, where the rainfall is more abundant and the humidity greater, some crops of fruits and vegetables are grown without irriga- tion, but one should not depend altogether on this. Irrigation is the only sure means of growing crops in New Mexico. By this means, other things being equal, the largest crops of ex- cellent quality can be grown, and then, the danger of floods and drouths is in a great measure mitigated. It is true, that the irrigation of fruits and vegetables costs money, energy and some skill, but the rewards are great and sure. With irrigation, the crops need not suffer from either too much nor . ^^%^l*- O U J o Q < o « o X o THE LAND OP SUNSHINE. K too little water and the land can be made to produce abun- dantly every year. In order to bring into play the favorable soil, water and cli- matic conditions to the best advantage, the adaptability of varieties of trees and plants should be considered. It is not infrequently found that some varieties, although they may be among the leading ones in other states, are partially or en- tirely w^orthless in New Mexico, particularly of the stone fruits. On the other hand, some less valuable kinds in other sections succeed admirably in many parts here. In other words, the proper selection of varieties is an important factor in the success of the horticultural operations, and this is being realized more and more. While horticulture is one of the leading interests and peo- ple of all classes are more or less interested in some branch of it, the possibihties in this direction are not fully reahzed. Only a small part of the land that is adapted to horticulture has been used. In recent years there seems to have been more interest taken in horticulture, and no doubt marked im- provement will soon take place in this line. Sugar Beets. New Mexico ranks first among countries best suited to tl e growth of high grade sugar beets. In nearly all localities where good beets can be grown there may also be found fuel, limestone, and water of good quality, as well as cheap labor. In the face of these facts, it seems that New Mexico should soon have sugar factories. Conditions are very similar to those in Colorado. In fact, in some respects superior, for both labor and land are cheaper. No doubt when it becomes knowm that New Mexico is even better suited than Colorado for both the growing of beets and the manufacture of sugar, capital will develop this industry as it has others of this Territory. New Mexico laws exempt all sugar factories from taxation for a period of six years. The United States Department of Agriculture, through a series of experiments for a number of years, has proven con- clusively that a mean temperature for the months of June, July and August, of about 70 degrees is the ideal temperature for the growing of beets of high saccharine contents. The COURT HOUSE OF MORA COUNTY AT MORA. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 79 isothermal sugar zone, or that belt of the United States best adapted to the growth of sugar beets, has been carefully mapped by Dr. H. W. Wiley, chemist of the United States Department of Agriculture. It extends e^st and west across the United States, and embraces that portion having a mean summer temperature between 69 degrees and 71 degrees Fahrenheit. Entering the northern boundary of Colorado, it passes through the entire state and into New Mexico where it forms a loop in the extreme southern part of the Territory somewhere north of and near Las Cruces, and passes upward again and out in the extreme northwestern part. With the exception of the lower. Pecos and Mesilla Valleys, the entire agricultural part of New Mexico has the proper climatic con- ditions for the cultivation of sugar beets. Beets grown in New Mexico when fully matured, have shown a high sugar content. Doctor Wiley, who is undoubtedly the principal authority on sugar beets today, has the following to say concerning New Mexico : "It is evident that there are many locahties in New Mexico where conditions of temperature are most favorable to the growth of beets. There are also large areas of comparatively level lands which are capable of irrigation. Wherever the temperature of these regions is sufficiently low to permit the proper development of the beet, and where sufiicient water for irrigation can be secured, there is good reason to beheve that the industry may be established and prove to be profit- able. While the summer days of New Mexico are not so long by an hour or more as in the regions farther north, the amount of sunshine which the growing beets will receive, is practi- cally as great as in more northern localities, because of the comparative absence of cloudy and rainy days." The same scientist tabulates analyses of sugar beets grown in the different states and territories. It will be seen that New Mexico grown sugar beets have a higher percentage of sugar than those of any state which at that time had sugar factories in operation. It will also be observed that the per- centage of purity of juice from New Mexico is very high. The following table gives the sugar contents and purity of juice in New Mexico beets and beets from other states in which beet sugar factories have been located : THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 81 gj Sngav in beet. Purity in juice. ^^^^^- Per cent. Per cent. Michigan 14.7 Hl.l California 16.8 Colorado 13.6 76 . 6 Utah 14.8 81.1 Nebraska 12.9 76.9 New York 15. 82.4 Oregon (a) (a) Washington 13.7 80.7 Wisconsin 15.8 83.3 Ohio 13.8 79.1 Minnesota 11. 79.2 New Mexico 17.2 82. (a) Results not given in table. It is estimated that the people of New Mexico consumed 15,750,000 pounds of sugar last year. Not one pound of this sugar was manufactured in the Territory, notwithstanding the fact that natural conditions are better suited to sugar beet growth and beet sugar manufacture than almost any other place in the United States, and possibly in the world. Tobacco. Tobacco has been cultivated in New Mexico for hundreds of years. It is more than likely that tobacco originated here and found its way into other countries. Wild tobacco, called "puncha," grows all along the foothills of the mountains. Many farmers continue to grow tobacco of seeds from the original plant, preferring it to Havana or any other variety. The cultivated plant is very similar to the native. The native farmers do not sow the seed in beds and transplant, but drill in rows. The plants are from five to five and a half feet high and have about forty leaves. They are small and resemble Turkish more than any other variety in growth and shape of leaf. Eleven small beds were prepared in gardens in Bernalillo county last year. Sumatra, Turkish, Havana, Connecticut, Virginia and Kentucky burley seed were sown and covered with glass. This was necessary, as it was late in the season and the plants had to be forced. If the beds had been sown 'r- -^'i^ THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 83 late in February or the early part of March, a covering of can- vass or cheese-cloth would have been sufficient. Suitable lands were selected for the experiment. The first transplant- ing work was done on May 26 and finished July 10. The crop grew nicely and gave a fine yield of superior quahty, with points in favor of Kentucky burley and Turkish, Tobacco of all varieties will grow well and has an unusually fine flavor and aroma. Several acres of Sumatra have been planted between rows of Kaffir corn six feet apart. It was shown by this experiment that the corn gave sufficient shade to the plants to make a very fine leaf, and that the great ex- pense of covering the field with canvass is not necessary. Cotton, Cotton is raised successfully in Eddy county. A cotton gin has been erected at Carlsbad. Cotton is also grown on a small scale in Chaves, Roosevelt and Quay counties. Two thousand acres were under cultivation in Eddy count}^ during the 1904 season. The Soil, The soil of the valleys of New Mexico is superior in pro- ductive capabilities to the alluvial soil of the prairie states. The secret of its producing power probably lies in the large amount of sediment contained in the irrigation waters. The Nile Valley, with its irrigation waters loaded with sediment, is considered one of the most fertile in the world, and yet in New Mexico there are a number of Nile Valleys in miniature. The crops are not seriously troubled by either insect pests or fungus diseases. Much sunshine and dry climate prevent the growth of fungi and, therefore, these are not likely to become troublesome. The insect pests that have found their way here seem to be quite easily controlled by proper treat- ment. It is quite a common custom, especially among the native population, to grow two crops on the same land in one season, that is, a crop of wheat and a crop of corn. This system would be inadvisable in the rain belt, but in sections where irrigation is employed and the water applied is loaded with rich sediment, it is a question if any serious criticism of this practice can be made. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 85 New Mexico's climate is a source of wealth to its people. Agricultural operations, especially in the southern half, are carried on throughout the year. Ground may be plowed any time during the winter, and cereals and alfalfa are sown dur- ing this season of the year, thus leaving the summer months free in which to harvest the cereal crops and the four or five cuttings of alfalfa. The principal agricultural and horticultural counties are Colfax, San Juan, Rio Arriba, Taos, Chaves, Eddy, Santa Fe, Dona Ana, Socorro, Valencia, Mora, Sandoval, Roosevelt and Bernalillo, although good agricultural land is found in every county. Results. At the Pan-American Exposition at Buffalo, an agricultural and horticultural exhibit from New Mexico received two gold medals, three bronze medals, and five certificates of honorable mention in competition with the rest of the North American as well as the South American continent. At the Louisiana Pur- chase Exposition at St. Louis, peaches from Roswell and Carls- bad received first premium in competition with peaches from California. The following figures are culled at random from reports in local newspapers made to them by farmers and hor- ticulturists or by reports made to the Bureau of Immigration: Capt. J. P. Casey from a ranch of 112i^ acres, 100 acres of which are in alfalfa, one-half mile north of Las Cruces, while he was its owner, had an average income per year since 1896 of $6,000. J. L. Wilson of Roswell sold $800 worth of tomatoes from a two acre lot on which the net profit was $550. Samuel Johnson on a three acre lot at Roswell raised $2,500 worth of truck, one- half of which was profit. George Davis from thirteen acres of fruit in Chaves county in one year sold $1,807 worth. J. C. Lea of Roswell in an off year for apples, sold $90 worth of this fruit from eight trees. A. J. Gilmour of Flora Vista, San J uan coun- ty, sold $600 worth of onions from one acre. W. H. Williams of San Juan county harvested 350 tons of alfalfa from sixty acres. W. H. Knight of Farmington sold 500,000 pounds of fruit from an eighty acre orchard , receiving on the tree, one cent a pound for apples, two cents a pound for grapes and three cents for prunes. He had one peach tree that yielded 700 pounds at THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 87 one bearing. Andrew Stevenson of the San Juan Valley, re- ceived $3,200 from the alfalfa crop of 100 acres. W. M. Farmer of Roswell made $6,000 from twenty acres of celery. At the United States Industrial Indian School in Santa Fe on three-fourths of an acre 11,800 pounds of the best onions were raised in 1902, giving the school its entire winter supply of this important food vegetable and which if bought in the market would have cost four cents per pound or $472. The Territo- rial penitentiary at Santa Fe on a plat of live acres raised suf- ficient vegetables of all varieties to supply the officials and in- mates, about 300 in number, all the year around, with the exception of potatoes and tomatoes. The following were among some of the exhibits at recent agricultural fairs in the Territory: Barley seven feet high; oat heads thirty inches long; apples weighing each twenty-eight ounces and sixteen inches in circumference; pears nineteen ounces; peaches twelve ounces; Muscat grapes weighing twenty-five ounces per bunch; nectarines weighing six ounces; water melons forty pounds; heads of cabbages forty-two pounds; a bunch of nine sweet potatoes weighing eighteen pounds. One apple tree in Otero county in 1900 yielded 6,000 pounds and a peach orchard of 3,000 trees yielded 200,000 pounds. The following are average yields per acre: Oats seventy to one hundred bushels; corn forty to sixty bushels; barley sixty to eighty- five bushels; wheat thirty to forty-five bushels; alfalfa three to five tons; potatoes 300 to 500 bushels; sweet potatoes 600 to 1,000 bushels; cotton one bale; tobacco 1,000 pounds; cailaigre root two to three tons; onions 500 bushels; sugar beets six- teen to twenty-two tons, yielding from sixteen to tw^enty-two per cent, saccharine matter; Mission grapes 12,744 pounds, making 910 gallons of wine. One acre of asparagus from the third year yields 200 pounds a day for sixty days each year. In Eddy county the average return for each acre of sugar beets was $67 and the average cost to the farmer $22. Bees average sixty-five pounds each year per hive, although as high as 196 pounds per hive have been realized at Artesia, Eddy county. The average profit per colony per year is $10. In years of ample rainfall an immense amount of gramma grass is harvested on the public range, an acre yielding from two to three tons of hay. ■n O J .j J s -J H < H H H THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 89 How to Secure a Homestead. There are 52,000,000 acres of unappropriated public land in New Mexico. Agricultural public land is subject to entry onl}^ under the homestead and desert land laws. The homestead laws of the United States secure to qualified per- sons the right to settle upon, enter, and acquire title to 160 acres of pubhc land by establishing and maintaining resi- dence thereon and improving and cultivating the same for a continuous period of five years. A homestead entryman must be the head of a family or over twenty-one years of age and a citizen of the United States or one who has declared his or her intention of becoming such, and he or she must not be the owner of more than 160 acres of land in any state or territory. A wife who has been divorced from her husband or deserted by him can make homestead entry. Payment of $16 fees and commissions must be made at the time of entry, and final proof can be made at any time when five years residence thereon and a cultivation of a portion of the land can be shown. The cost of making final proof, including publication of notice, taking testimony, and commissions is from $14.26 to $15. A person can, at the time of making homestead entry of 160 acres, enter 160 acres under the desert land act. He will be required to pay twenty-five cents per acre at the time of mak- ing the entry, after which he is required to expend $3 per acre ($1 per acre each year for three years) in labor or money in improving the land and constructing reservoirs, canals and ditches for irrigation and reclaiming the tracts entered; and the person can make final entry at any time prior to the expi- ration of four years on making the required proof of reclama- tion, of expenditure to an aggregate amount of $3 per acre, and of the cultivation of one-eighth of the land and making a final payment of one dollar per acre. In taking up a homestead, first possession may be obtained for ninety days by cutting four logs twelve feet long for a foundation of a house, putting up a notice and making im- provements from time to time. At the end of that time the entry must be completed. ■"^^. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 91 The Stock Industry. Next to agriculture, the stock industry is the greatest source of wealth, in fact, as far as the area devoted to it, it leads all other industries. This is easily explained, for be- sides an extensive private range, there are 50,000,000 acres of public range, and the chmate is all that can be wished for by stock raisers. Many fortunes have been made in stock rais- ing and with each year the grade of stock is being improved and thus becomes more valuable. Over 1,000,000 cattle are on the ranges of the Territory and in Chaves county are to be found some of the highest grade cattle in the United States, Herefords predominating. Chaves, Grant, Sierra, Luna, Otero, Dona Ana, Union, Leonard Wood, Roosevelt, Colfax, Eddy, Lincoln and Quay are the principal cattle counties. Sheep. There are between live and six million sheep upon the ranges. The mild winters, the grassy mesas and watered val- leys, the sheltered canons, help to make sheep raising very profitable. The wool produced annually is between 20,000,000 and 25,000,000 pounds and as railroad facihties are ample there is no difticulty in getting the wool crop to market. A moderate capital invested in sheep, a home ranch and ample range will bring success to the sheep raiser if he possesses good business tact and experience. Goats. Equally as profitable and as free from difficulties is the raising of goats. Especially on the foothills and on the moun- tain mesas, goats do better than sheep. There are many thou- sand square miles of such pasture in the Territory. In Sierra, Lincoln, Otero and Santa Pe and other mountain counties, there are many large goat farms, much attention being given to high grade Angoras. Incidental to the profit from the hair of the Angoras, their skin and their meat, they will clear land from brush and thus make it available for irrigation. The goat is very hardy, can subsist upon a range that would starve any other animal and is free from diseases which often play havoc with other stock. There are, it is estimated, 225,000 goats in the Territory. H O H > I — I 7} f-H < H 0) O >^ o O « w H 'SI THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 93 Timber. New Mexico is rich in timber, about 5,000,000 acres being covered with merchantable timber. Extensive lumbering operations are at present being carried on in the Sacramento mountains in Otero county, there being extensive saw mills, tie preserving and planing mills at Alamogordo; in Rio Arriba county where a railroad is being built into the timber district; in Valencia and McKinley counties, where the Ameri- can Lumber Company is carrying on operations upon a large scale, the lumber being sent to a large mill at Albuquerque; and upon a lesser scale in Taos, Santa Fe, Lincoln, Colfax, San Miguel, Mora and other counties. New Mexico timber, which is mostly pine, is used in building operations and for bridges and railroad purposes. Hundreds of thousands of pine and spruce railroad ties are also made annually. Mining. Mining will be treated in detail in a companion volume to this. It is one of the oldest and most important industries in the Territory and has produced many millions of dollars. It is destined to a great expansion and great production in the future. Prospecting has never been thorough nor develop- ment very extensive except in a few instances. Still, there have been many bonanzas in the Territory and from its gold and silver mines many fortunes have been made. Copper is found in almost every one of the mining counties, and the cop- per mines in Grant and Santa Fe counties are well developed. Considerable iron ore is mined in Grant county, but the Ter- ritory's iron deposits have scarcely been touched, although about 150,000 tons of iron ore are sent to Pueblo, Colorado, annually, from Fierro, Grant county, alone. The production of lead is, in importance next to gold, silver, copper and iron, and after that zinc ore figures in the mineral returns. New Mexico produces an extra fine quality of turquoise and sup- plies the market almost entirely in the United States. Other precious stones are found although not in large deposits. Salt lakes, alum deposits, vast areas of gypsum, sulphur, kaolin, fire clay, corrundrum, bloedite, ochre, graphite and mineral paints, are features of the mineral wealth of the Ter- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 95 ritory. Marble, granite, sandstone, lime, brick clay and other building materials exist in many counties. It is in its coal fields, however, that New Mexico possesses its greatest promise for the future. Last year a million and a half of tons of coal w^ere produced by the coal mines at Dawson, Van Houten, Madrid, Gallup, Monero, Carthage, Capitan and elsewhere. Coal exists in more than one-half of the counties and undeveloped coal veins from four to forty feet in thickness await merelj^ the coming of the capitalist and the railroad. Good coal miners can always find employ- ment and make, very good wages. There are also oil prospects in McKinley, Leonard Wood, Eddy, San Juan, Colfax and Sandoval counties. The leading mining counties are: Grant, Santa Fe, Colfax, Taos, Rio Arriba, Sierra, Otero, Socorro, Lincoln, Dona Ana, Luna and Sandoval, although there are mines and mineral in- dications in every county. Manufacturing Industries. New Mexico has made but a beginning in manufacturing although it presents every possible advantage for large indus- trial enterprises. There are lumbering mills and a box fac- tory at Albuquerque and at Alamogordo, and saw" mills on various timber tracts; a woolen mill at Albuquerque; w^ool scouring plants at Albuquerque, Las Vegas, Roswell and Tucumcari; a foundry at Albuquerque; railroad shops at Al- buquerque, Las Vegas, Raton, Alamogordo and Estancia; ore treatment plants in many of the mining camps; a tie preserv- ing plant at Alamogordo and at Las Vegas, ice factories, steam laundries, and electric light plants in the larger towns, can- neries at Las Cruces and Farmington, a distillery at Farming- ton, a cotton gin at Carlsbad, a brewery at Albuquerque and at Socorro, flour mills in the larger towns; coke ovens in the coal mining camps, a cement plant at Ancho; and other small manu- facturing plants are gradually being established. At Estancia a salt treatment plant is about to be built. But there is room for vast expansion. New Mexico produc- ing wool, hides, canaigre, cement, lime, sugar beets, gypsum and many other raw materials that many factories must ship from a distance. It offers in addition abundant and cheap fuel, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 97 low priced land, natural power, a perfect climate, good home markets and proximity to Mexico markets, railroad facilities, moderate priced labor, all of which are factors in conducting a successful industrial establishment. By legislation, various branches of manufacture are exempted from taxes for the first few years after establishment, and the larger towns are always ready to tender every inducement to manufacturers who desire to locate. The opening is especially promising for woolen mills, tanneries, shoe, glove, furniture, paper and beet sugar factories, cement mills, glass works, canneries, distil- leries, furnaces, iron and steel works and brick yards. Railroads. New Mexico is well gridironed by railroads and new lines are under consideration. During the past three years, 850 miles have been added and now every county except one, has railroad facilities. The Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe, the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific, the El Paso and Southwest- ern, the El Paso and Northeastern, the Santa Fe Central, the Denver and Rio Grande, the Colorado and Southern, the Pecos Valley and Northeastern, the Southern Pacific and their branches and extensions, are the principal railway lines. These railroads employ a large number of men, and afford superior facilities for communication and traffic within the commonwealth as well as connection with the outside world. Three of the most important lines of transcontinental travel pass through the Territory. Santa Fe and Deming have three independent railroad systems, while other places have a com- petition of two railroad hnes or are the junction points of branches or a main and branch line. CHAPTER V. CLIMATE. TT is its climate that is New Mexico's principal and partic- ular boast, and well may its people be proud of it. As the altitude gradually declines from 8,000 feet in the north to 8,000 feet in the south, the climate is modified as far as the mean annual temperature is concerned, but other- wise it is the same in the north as in the south, the sharp win- ter winds of the north being tempered by the warm sunshine and dry air; and the higher temperature of the south being mo- derated by the latitude, the dry air and the invariably cool nights. There is no other commonwealth, not even Colorado with its high winds and greater annual precipitation, nor Ari- zona with its hot dust storms and great variations in daily tem- perature, although both possess a tine climate that is a specific for lung trouble, that can compare its climatic advantages with those of New Mexico. The Territory knows of no cases of na- tive consumption, and in the higher altitudes and in certain lo- calities, of no enteric diseases, no malaria no diphtheria, no croup, no mosquitoes, no blizzards, no oppressive summer days or nights. At Santa Fe in winter, on sunny days, the tempera- ture in the sun runs up from fifty to eighty degrees, and in summer the shade temperature never exceeds ninety degrees except once or twice in a decade, ninety-seven degrees being the highest temperature on record in thirty years. Even a temperature of ninety-seven degrees, on account of the great dryness of the atmosphere and the invariably cool summer nights, is not as oppressive as a maximum temperature of seventy-two degrees at Chicago or New York. At Carlsbad and Las Cruces the mean temperature for January is forty- two degrees and in July a little less than eighty degrees, giv- ing the extremes of the mean temperatures for the year in southern New Mexico. The days of sunshine in every year average from 300 to 320, partly cloudy days from twenty-five to forty-five and cloudy days from twenty to thirty, there be- ing more cloudy days in summer than in winter, and no other commonwealth in the United States has an average sunshine THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 101 record equal to that of New Mexico, which, for that reason is known as the "Sunshine Territory." During the six months ending March 1, 1904, the weather bureau at Santa Fe re- corded not a single cloudy day. But it is not only to healthseekers that New Mexico is a haven of refuge. It has been stated by some writers that tuberculosis can be treated successfully in any climate. All experience is against such a conclusion. It has been demon- strated beyond question that certain sections of the United States possess climatic characteristics which are peculiarly adapted to the successful management of the disease. The so-called arid regions of the great southwest, which comprise portions of southern Colorado, all of New Mexico and Arizona, together with that part of western Texas known as the "Llano Estacado,"' may be included in this favored section. The vast and salubrious stretch of country, which is so many times alluded to as a "land of sand, sagebrush and cacti," possesses in an almost unlimited degree those very elements which ob- servation has proved to be of the utmost value in the treat- ment of tuberculosis. Where medicines have failed the elements are succeeding. A pure atmosphere, containing an abundance of oxygen and electricity, in conjunction with a large amount of sunshine, is today fulfilling in an eminently satisfactory manner the mis- sion heretofore mapped out for such agents as cod-liver-oil, creosote and the various poisonous concoctions known as serums. The importance of chmate as a factor in the treatment of pulmonary tuberculosis is daily manifesting more and more its value, whether taken separately, or coupled with the va- rious specific plans of therapy now advocated and emploj-ed in this important branch of practice. Physicians are inform- ing themselves more widely upon this vital question, and the experiences gained by the practitioner hving amidst such ideal climatic conditions as exist in New Mexico are being looked upon with more interest and kindly consideration than has heretofore been accorded them. The consensus of opinion as expressed by the leading au- thorities on tuberculosis at the International Congress held at Moscow, Russia, two years ago, and later at London. Eng- H < < H > O m K H w H o THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 103 land, and Madrid, Spain, was unanimously in favor of the cli- matic treatment of pulmonary tuberculosis over all other methods considered. The southwestern section of the United States has thou- sands of residents who came as tuberculosis patients, some of them as long as twenty-live years ago. They are today, and have been for many years, in good health, have married and reared children wdio are to all appearances absolutely free from tubercular disease. Animals, as w^ell as the human race, are hkewise remarkably free from tuberculosis in this region, as has been shown by the researches of Herrera and Lopez in Mexico, where the cli- matic conditions are practically similar to those existing in New Mexico. These investigators report that they have found but forty-five cases of tuberculosis in cattle out of 73,000 killed and examined at the government abattoir in the City of Mexico. It may be stated in a general w^ay that all specific plans of therapeutic treatment thus far suggested for the cure of tu- berculosis, and especially of the pulmonary form, have failed, so that one must look to nature rather than to the laboratory for the weapons to combat this enemy of the race. The early diagnosis of pulmonary tuberculosis is of the ut- most importance for it is in the beginning of the disease that the greatest benefit is derived in the largest proportion of cases from the climate or the out-of-door plan of treatment. New Mexico is essentially a "land of sunshine and blue skies." Here there is a dry and bracing climate, with no extreme heat or cold, a climate, which for the most jmrt, admits of an existence out of doors almost all the year round. It is these quahties of air and sky that have caused this favored region to be knowm today over the entire civilized world as the "Land of Sunshine." The pecuhar adaptabihty of such a climate to the successful management of consumption and other diseases of the lungs and respiratory tracts is causing invalids to flock here in great numbers, experience and observation having de- monstrated beyond further question the fact that the sea coast resorts have proved dismal failures in exercising either H D a u (3 CQ J ^ [J H O >^ H K W > I— ( w s Eh Oh o o < w o m < >H u J Q < »!fc. !.■**" J*- ; THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 105 a corrective or retarding intiuence upon the diseases men- tioned above. The past few j'ears the medical profession, as weh as the laity, have been made aware, through various channels, of the vastly superior chmatic conditions existing throughout the Territory of New Mexico, and patients are seeking relief here by the hundreds where formerly they came only by the score. Osier says : "The requirements of a suitable climate are a pure atmosphere, an equable temperature not subject to rapid variations and a maximum amount of sunshine." Given these factors, and it makes little diffej-ence where a patient goes, as long as he lives an outdoor life. The purity of the atmosphere is the first consideration, and it is this requirement that is met so well in the mountains and the forests of New Mexico, The problem of the prevention of the further spread of tu- berculosis and its ultimate and complete eradication from the human race will be solved when physicians realize the import- ance of at once placing the patient suffering from, or threat- ened with, this disease in a suitable chmate. Children inher- iting this peculiar condition of the cellular structures and cell elements known as a tubercular tendency will develop, in a favorable chmate, a cell antagonism to the disease which can never be acquired in a climate where tubercular diseases are more common and one which favors the causes that lead, to tubercular disease. It is generally conceded by writers upon bacteriology that climatic conditions play a most conspicuous part in both de- velopment and retardation of microbic life. Epidemic diseases which have for their vehicles certain conditions of the atmos- phere, such as heat and moisture, constantly demonstrate their powe-*' of spreading contagion, the moisture contained in the air being the chief factor of preserving the vitality of the germ. To any one familiar with the extreme climatic difference between the Atlantic coast states and the Southwest, the great role played by the climate in each locality named, will at once become strikingly apparent to the most indifferent observer. Epidemics, such as la grippe, so fatal and destructive in their train of sequelae, are unknown in New Mexico. This is rather remarkable, in view of the fact that the bulk of the population. ESPIRITU SANTO LAKE. IN THE SANTA FE RANGE. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 107 about three fourths, are native people, who hve in a humble and primitive state scarcely ever employing any modern sani- tary precautions to guard against epidemic invasions. The climatic conditions existing throughout the Territory and in the mountain regions more especially, the rarity and purity of the atmosphere, together with the almost constant direct rays of the sun. are the most powerful bactericides known to science today. A climate where discarded animal and vege- table substances undergo prompt and rapid desiccation after brief exposure to the atmosphere, without the least manifes- tation of decomposition, argues most strongly against bacte- rial development. The tuberculus bacilli lose their infective power in a very short tima after exposure to the sun's rays in the arid atmosphere. This clearly explains the curative effect of climate upon pulmonary tuberculosis. Constant in- halation of what may properly be termed an aseptic atmos- phere, in time, brings about in the pulmonary tissues, inflamed by tuberculous deposits, that xerj desiccation effected ujDon animal and vegetable substance exposed directly to the air. Although there are many invalids, principally persons with tuberculosis, there is not a case of tuberculosis on record in New Mexico that was communicated from the diseased to the healthy through the medium of the atmosphere. That the native people of this section experience such wonderful im- munity from tuberculosis, especially of the respiratory tract, must have its explanation in the very favorable climatic condi- tions surrounding. In order to derive all possible benefit from such a cli- mate as that of New Mexico the health seeker should live out of doors. If he has the strength to get about at all, the best he can do is to go into the pine forests and camp out. The nomadic life of the tent dweller is the best treatment for inci- pient pulmonary tuberculosis. It is often a grave mistake for an invalid to seek a change of climate in a place where he has no friends, no occupation, nothing to distract his mind from himself and his malady. In a few months he exhausts the pos- sibilities of mere curious interest in unfamiliar surroundings, and then he strolls about alone or with chance acquaintances until he becomes weary of the town and the monotony of his existence. Home sickness ensues, the mental disease some- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 109 times counterbalancing the climatic benefit, and the health- seeker in desperation returns to his home, preferring the certainty of death among friends, to the possibility of a pro- longed existence under unsupportable conditions. If such a health seeker would procure a saddle horse, pack animals, and a camp outfit and go into the mountains with a good guide and agreeable companions he would find no monotony, and no homesickness, but would gain strength and buoyancy of spirit and never know a dull hour. A year of out-of-door life in the dry, bracing air of New Mexico, will arrest many a case of incipient pulmonary tuberculosis, if the sufferer has the necessary strength and vitality to begin such a course of treatment and takes ordinary precautions against undue ex- posure and overexertion. Recognizing the superior climatic advantages of New Mex- ico for the treatment of diseases of the respiratory system, the United States government has established, and now has in successful operation, two large sanitariums, one operated under the auspices of the War Department and the other un- der the United States Marine Hospital Service. The action of the government m establishing its great sani- tariums for the treatment of consumption in New Mexico is a far greater and stronger eulogy on the climatic advantages of this Territory than anything that can be said or written upon the subject. Since the establishment six years ago of the two govern- ment sanitariums, one at Fort Bayard, and the other at Fort Stanton, several hundred soldiers and sailors, afflicted with tuberculosis, have been cured by the climatic treatment, which is the chief feature at both of these establishments. Liberal appropriations have been made by the national government for enlarging and improving both of these institutions, and they are destined to make a record in the future by the large and increasing per cent of cures they are effecting. Fresh air in abundance, both night and day, is the first and most im- portant factor in the treatment. Coupled with this are sun- shine, healthful and abundant diet, moderate exercise, amuse- ments and recreations of a suitable character. This con- stitutes the plan followed at both places, and they are proving f ? COURT HOUSE OF EDDY COUNTY, AT CARLSBAD. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. HI each day the immense advantages they possess over the old methods of treatment. Private sanitariums are rapidly springing up and this is a sure indication that at last capitalists as well as scientific men are beginning to admit in a practical way that the future of New Mexico has great possibihties in this respect. At Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Las Vegas, Silver City, Las Cruces and other points, are now^ in successful operation ex- cellent sanitariums conducted by private individuals. Add to these the various mountain resorts and springs where camp life is a feature, it will be readily seen that at the present time much excellent provision is already made for health seekers, whereas only a few years ago, everything of this kind was ex- tremely crude. Special attention is given at all these places to making the dietary varied and wholesome. This with abun- dant sunshine and pure mountain spring w-ater, constitutes a trinity hard to surpass in the treatment of consumption. "Sunmount,'" beautifully situated in the foothills east and south of Santa Fe, is the pioneer tent city of this region and the most important. Great care in the selection of the site has repaid the managers, as the demand for accommodations increases daily. The "Holmes Sanitary Tent" is in use there and its construction is so ideal for the purpose that it permits of a comfortable life in the open air during the entire year. Grand scenery, constant sunshine, pure water from moun- tain springs, a generous cuisine, competent medical super- vision, trees with health-giving properties, like the spruce, cedar, pine and the Austrahan red gum or eucalyptus, togeth- er with the altitude of 7,000 feet, and the pure mountain air form an ideal combination of health and life giving-elements not to be found elsewhere, perhaps, on the continent. "Sun- mount" is surely destined to become the most noted health and pleasure resort in the entire southwestern country. A common mistake about this country is that it is a very expen- sive place to live in. At "vSunmount" excellent tents comfort- ably furnished are to be had at $10 and $15 per month. Charles E. Linney, director of the United States Weather Bureau at Santa Fe, speaks as follows of the New Mexico climate : "It is easy to say that the climate of this or that place is the THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 113 finest in the world; it is less easy to show reliable facts and figures to bear out the statement, and it is least easy to con- vince the self satisfied public that some other spot can be, or is the more favored; facts, however, if they are facts, should be given credence. "It is with these barriers in view that a few facts (and sim- ple figures) regarding the climate of central and northern New Mexico are presented, this vast empire being in many respects nicely typified by Santa Fe, local contour, latitude and altitude being considered. "Discarding fractional finesse, the annual mean tempera- ture of Santa Fe (obtained from 31 years of carefully compiled records by the United States Weather Bureau) is 40-, a de- gree higher than that of Chicago, the same as that of Boston, a degree lower than Denver, six degrees cooler than Asheville, North Carolina, (which has the same latitude), seven degrees cooler than St. Louis and 20 - cooler than Jacksonville. This comfortable average too is the result of balancing 29 % the coldest month (January), with 69-, the warmest month (July). In 31 years the temperature has never risen to 100^, the high- est record being 97- in the month of August, 1878, and since the following year it has not touched 95^; the average num- ber of days each year with 90^ or higher is but two. The average daily maximum temperature (afternoon reading) of the warmest month (July) is but 81-, while the average night temperature of this month is but 57-, a summer temperature far more comfortable than that of St. Louis, Washington, New York, Boston, Chicago, Denver or St. Paul, and only ap- proached by the cities that nestle beside the frigid waters of Lake Superior. "On the other hand, winter is not bleak and cold; the average winter temperature is 31 , just below the freezing point. The temperature of the night falls to or below freezing a little over one hundred times each year, while zero temperatures are rarely recorded. The lowest actual record is 13^ below zero in December, 1879, and in January, 1883; many winters pass without a record of zero temperature. "The annual precipitation (including rain, snow, sleet and hail) is 14.3 inches; Denver the same; Chicago, 34.8; St. Louis, 41.1; Asheville, 42.5; Washington, 44.8; Boston, 45.0, and Jack- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 115 sonville, 54.1 inches. While the rainfall is low it should be borne in mind that 62 per cent of the amount occurs in the spring and summer months, leaving the fall and winter months dry and invigorating. July is the wettest m.onth, averaging 2.8 inches, while but 0.7 inch (or less) are measured in November, December, January, February and March. The average number of days with 0.01 of an inch or more of pre- cipitation is 81, against 111 at St. Louis, 120 at Chicago, 121 at Boston, 122 at Washington, and 127 at Jacksonville. These figures for Santa Fe, however, do not represent days with con- tinuous rain, but rather days with showers of short duration, for a day with continuous rain is practically unknown. "The sunshine of Santa Fe is proverbial; there is annually recorded 76 per cent of the possible amount, against 69 per cent at Denver, 65 per cent at St. Louis, 59 per cent at Wash- ington, 54 per cent at Boston and 53 per cent at Chicago. With all of these cities, excepting only Denver, the greatest amount of sunshine occurs in summer, while here the highest per- centage is in the fall, spring and winter in the order named- expressed differently this means that there is a partial veiling of the sun's rays during the heat of the summer, but a full and free bestowal of its glorious rays during the remaining nine months of the year. Occasionally, the amount of sunshine reaches the marvelous total of 93 per cent of the possible (June, 1902), and it has never fallen below 55 per cent (Jan- uary, 1898). In actual hours of sunshine the record averages 3,352 hours in a year, 9.2 hours for each day. "The average relative humidity is slightly below 46 per cent, it is highest, slightly below 55 per cent, in January, and low- est 33 per cent in June. The annual relative humidity at Denver is 50 per cent; at St. Louis 70 per cent; at Boston 72 per cent; at Washington 73 per cent; at Chicago 77.per cent, and at Jacksonville 80 per cent. For the warmest months of the year— June, July, August and September— the average at St. Louis is 66 per cent; Chicago and Boston 74 per cent; Washington 75 per cent and Jacksonville 82 per cent; in other words the humidity during the heat of the summer in the eastern cities is considerably greater than the annual average, while, just the opposite condition prevails in Santa Fe, where it is a dry heat, thus always free from enervating effects. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 117 "The average hourly wind movement is low (6.9 miles per hour) and it is rare indeed that a storm velocity (40 miles an hour or higher) is attained, there being but 37 such records in 21 years. There is no record of the wind ever having at- tained a velocity of 60 miles an hour at Santa Fe. "Summarized, the climate may be described as one that is mild and equable, much given to sunshine, free from great heat, high winds, humidit}^ and debilitating effects so notice- able in the central and eastern cities, free also from the cold and snow and storm of other northern cities, a climate of clear skies, small rainfall, few storms and those of short duration, one which is usually warm in the sun in winter and cool in the shade in summer." CHAPTER VI. MINERAL AND HOT SPRINGS. nEW MEXICO is not only blessed with a climate that is a boon to health seekers, but it also possesses mineral and hot springs whose waters have curative powers that are wonderful. One of the most remarkable groups of thermal springs in the United States is located at Ojo Caliente, Taos countj^ 6,290 feet above sea level. There are three large hot springs, wdiose curative powers were recognized before the white man entered New Mexico. The temperature of the w^ater ranges from 90 to 122 degrees Fahrenheit and their gases are carbonic. The waters contain 1,687.34 grains of alkaline salts to the gallon, and the springs are therefore considered the richest alkaline hot springs in the world. Associated with the hot springs is a lithia spring especially effective in the cure of kidney troubles. Ojo Caliente is reached by a short stage ride from Barranca on the Santa Fe-Antonito branch of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. At Las Vegas Hot Springs, 6,767 feet above the level of the sea, six miles from the City of Las Vegas, is a group of hot springs, whose waters resemble those at the famous hot springs at Teplitz, Austria, although its two chief active con- stituents, carbonate and sulphate of sodium, recall the waters of Carlsbad. The hottest of the springs is 144 degrees Fahren- heit. The mineral elements vary from the saline to the lithia and sulphur. The waters are conveyed by pipes into the bath houses and natatorium, and stimulate the digestive organs into activity, being especially potent in stomach disorders, intestinal troubles, liver complaints, kidney trouble, gout, diabetes and kindred ailments. The magnificent Montezuma Hotel at the springs is to be reopened in 1905. The hot springs are reached from Las Vegas by electric railway. Two groups of hot mineral springs are located in the Valles mountains, fifty miles west of Santa Fe, and accessible from Santa Fe, Albuquerque and Espanola by good w^agon roads. The altitude of the lower springs is 6,620 feet and of the higher THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 121 group 6,740 feet. The waters of the largest of the lower springs have a temperature of 168 degrees, running about fifty gallons per minute, with escaping carbonic acid gas and depo- sits of white carbonate of lime. There is also a spring of 130 degrees with free carbonic acid and red brown deposits; a spring of 119 degrees with sulphuretted hydrogen and iron. The waters of the other springs in the group range from 102 to 108 degrees and carry sodium, lime and magnesia. These springs are very efficacious in rheumatic complaints. The upper group consists of forty-two springs, whose waters range in temperature from 70 to 106 degrees. They flow from caves of carbonate of hme. The springs contain 27.26 parts of sohds in 100 parts of water, mostly chloride of sodium and sulphate and carbonate of soda, hme and magnesia and resem- ble the famous springs of Marienbad, Europe. Besides the hot springs north of the upper group, are numerous cold springs. Hotel accommodations are provided at these springs. The mineral springs at Carlsbad, Eddy county, have the largest fiow of any mineral springs in the southwest. They pour forth 5,000 gallons of mineralized water a minute, whose constituents are almost identical with those of the Friedrichs- haU spring at Carlsbad, Austria, the waters being invaluable as an aperient and alterative. Plans have been perfected for the erection of a sanitarium and hotel at the springs. The beautiful town of Carlsbad, nearby, however, furnishes good and convenient accommodations for ah visitors. At Fay wood. Grant county, three miles from Fay wood sta- tion on the Santa Fe railway, are springs of 142 degrees Fah- renheit and which are efticacious in cases of rheumatism, stomach and kidney troubles, and blood and skin diseases, the waters resembhng those of Carlsbad, Austria. The altitude of the springs is 5.782 feet. A commodious hotel has been erected at Faywood. Three miles north of the hotel, is another group of mineral springs. The Coyote mineral springs, twelve miles from Albuquer- que, are highly esteemed for their curative powers. They are mildly laxative and diuretic and are specific in gout, rheuma- tism, dyspepsia and kidney and liver troubles. On the other side of the Sandias, on the Tejon grant, are also fine mineral springs but not yet exploited. IN THE GALLINAS CANON NEAR LAS VEGAS. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 123 Near Folsom, at an altitude of 6,500 feet, on the Colorado Southern Railroad, are hot springs of great medicinal value. Nearby is the extinct volcano Capulin, with one of the most perfectly formed craters in the southwest. Ten miles southwest of the quaint old Pueblo of Zuni, and further south on the San Francisco river, are hot and mineral springs, known and used by the natives for the past three cen- turies and longer. At an altitude of 6,540 feet, in Socorro county, at Cher ryville> accessible by stage from Eiigle, there are hot mineral springs, with a temperature of 120 degrees. At Palomas in Sierra county, on the Gila river in southwestern Socorro county, on the upper Mimbres in Grant county, and in other parts of New Mexico are found hot and cold springs, whose curative powers are equal to those of the springs described above, and situated in canons or valleys of wild but idyllic beauty. Near Estancia, in Valencia county, are very strong alkaline springs; a mile southeast of Santa Fe are the Aztec mineral springs; eight miles west of Santa Fe is a mineral spring reported to be the equal to the famous soda spring at Manitou, Colorado. At Wamsleys, Taos county, are fine hot mineral springs whose waters have effected cures that border on the miraculous, and the waters of the artesian well at Springer are mineralized and are bottled for trade. This is only a list of the better known and most accessible of the hot and mineral springs in New Mexico, whose heal- ing waters have stood the test of time, and it is not uncommon to have people come a thousand miles or more to take advant- age of their curative powers. ON THE SCENIC ROUTE ROAD NEAR SANTA FE. CHAPTER VII. ATTRACTIONS FOR TOURISTS. no other commonwealth is as rich as New Mexico in j^re. liistoric remains and historic landmarks. In the Paja- rito Cliff Dweller's Park, twenty miles west of Santa Fe, are twenty thousand chff dwelhngs and ruins of communal buildings, some of which had as high as 1,200 and more rooms. They are of two kinds : 1. Cliff dw^ellings proper. These are houses built on high ledges under overhanging cliffs. They are closely allied to the ancient style of pueblo ruins. In these the back walls are formed by the natural cliffs, while the front and partition walls are of masonrj^ consisting of rudely dressed stone laid in adobe mortar and chinked with smaller stones in a manner almost identical with that of the Pueblo ruins. 2. Cavite lodges. These dwellings are usually high and in many cases are in almost inaccessible cliffs. In the earliest stages they consisted of natural caves, but with the develop- ment of the people occupying them, these dwellings were im- proved. In their highest stages of perfection, they consisted of wholly artificial caves in perpendicular cliffs. A doorway is hewn into the face of the cliffs to a depth of from three to five feet. Then the excavation of the dwelling began. A front room, circular, oval or rectangular was dug out. It may be from six to twenty feet in diameter according to the use for which it was designed. If for a sleeping room only, it is liable to be from six to eight feet in diameter, with low ceiling often not over four feet. If designed for a kiva, it may attain to a dimension of fifteen to twenty feet in diameter, with higher ceilings. Those designed for general living-rooms are usually from eight to twelve feet in diameter, with ceilings not over six to seven feet above the floor. There are usually one or more smaller rooms connected with the main living rooms by very small doorways. These were probably used for storage. The interiors are generally plastered to a height of about four feet above the floor with adobe mortar. In some places there COURT HOUSE OF GRANT COUNY AT SILVER CITY. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 127 has been considerable attempt at wall decorations. The outer doorways are small, often not to exceed one and one-half by four feet. Pueblo ruins. These are spoken of as Pueblo ruins not be- cause they have been occupied by the Pueblo Indians in his- toric times, but because of their resemblance to the large ter- raced structures occupied by the hving Pueblo people. The finest specimens of this class of ruins in existence are to be found in New Mexico, being very numerous in several parts of the Territory. They are built of sandstone, volcanic tufa, lava and cobble stones, the material used in their construc- tion depending upon the natural formations found in the vicinity where located. The Pajarito Park is a tract embraced between the Rio Grande on the east, the Jemez mountains on the west, the Rito de los Frijoles on the south, and the Chama river on the north. It is a park of great natural beauty, being for the most part a plateau of from 6,000 to 9,000 feet altitude, and cut by deep canons. The western portion attains an altitude of over 10,000 feet in places, and is covered by a heavy growth of pine and spruce. A considerable part of the tract is underlaid with volcanic tufa varying in thickness from fifty to one thousand feet. In the northeastern part this is entirely eroded away. Throughout the north central section the tufa remains in long tongue-hke mesas or potreros, which rise abruptly— in many places perpendicularly— to a height of from 100 to 150 feet. In the southern part, the tufa extends to the Rio Grande in a sheet of varying thickness, and here innu- merable canons are cut out by the mountain torrents. The face of the country thus presents many miles of almost per pendicular cliffs of yellowish and orange colored tufa, and in these are found the cliff dwellings. This is one of the richest archaeological fields on this conti- nent. Many thousands of cave dwellings have been explored, the largest of the communal houses have been examined and mapped. Hundreds of smaller stone ruins have been located and sufficiently investigated, and a small beginning has been made in burial mound exploratitm. Another interesting line which promises good results is that of photographing and sketching the pictographs or rock writings of the prehistoric ARTESIAN WELL AT ROSWELL. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 129 inhabitants. These inscriptions are evidently the work of tribes far more remote than the immediate progenitors of the Pueblos, who occupied these dwelhngs in comparatively recent times, that is, about 350 years ago. Almost all of these inscriptions have been copied and are being worked up. A fine group of Pueblo ruins is situated in the Pajarito Park. These are the largest that have been found, some of them having contained as high as 1,200 rooms. The largest and most interesting are Puye, Otowi, Tsankawi, Navakwiand Tshrega. These have been. carefully mapped and measured, but very little excavation has been done. In the same region are several hundred smaller Pueblo ruins, containing origin- ally from one room to 500 each. This class in the Pajarito Park is built of volcanic tufa. Similar ruins exist in Chaco Canon, in San Juan county. Here the prehistoric village Indians seemed to have attained their highest culture and de- velopment. There are fourteen large stone buildings in the region, several of which are in the best state of preservation of any such ruins that are known. They are vastly superior in construction to any of the present occupied pueblos. In some the walls still stand to a height of thirty feet and include remnants of the fifth story. They were originally from three to five stories high. They contain from 100 to 1,200 rooms each and were built of sandstone. The most remarkable are Kin Kale, Wejegi, Una Vida, HungoPavis, Chetiro Kettle, Bonito, Tuba Kin, Penasco, Blan- co, Pueblo Alto, Kin Khzhin and Kimineola. Nowhere else in this country are there such splendid groups of prehistoric buildings m a fair state of preservation. They are also the richest known relics of prehistoric culture. The Pueblo ruins at Gran Quivira, at Abo, at Pueblo Viejo, in the San Mateo mountains, and near Santa Fe, as well as the cliff dwellings on the Gila, are equal ia historic and archyeologic interest to those mentioned above. In these localities is found practically every phase of the prehistoric culture of the southwest. The Pajarito Park lies near the City of Santa Fe, and is easy of access in the north- ern part from Espanola, on the Denver and Rio Grande Rail- road, in the central part from Buckman, on the same road, and in the southern part from Thornton, on the Santa Fe Rail- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 13] way via Cochiti. The Chaco Canon is about seventy miles from Thoreaii, on the Santa Fe Pacific Railway, and about 120 miles from Durango, on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. It may also be reached in about four days drive from Bernalillo or Santa Fe. The Old Mission churches. Foremost in interest and value in historicarchaeology are the old mission churches of the Fran- ciscans. In every occupied Indian pueblo and at the site of almost every abandoned pueblo, there is one of the monuments of those pioneers of Christianitj'^ and civilization, the Francis- can Fathers. Many of these are in a good state of preservation, while others are in ruins, but ever}^ one is an object of historic interest. The old mission church of San Diego, which is the oldest of the California missions, was founded in 1769. It is almost a total ruin; only the front remains in a good state of preserva- tion. The side walls are still standing, but no j)ortions of the roof or interior remain. This is the most venerable and vene- rated historic monument in the State of California, and is an- nually visited by thousands of tourists. It has stood for 164 years. It marks the beginning of civilization and Christianity in California. In New Mexico, on the upper Pecos, thirty-five miles west of Las Vegas, at the site of the abandoned Pueblo of Cicuye, are the ruins of the old Pecos church. They are as well preserved as those of San Diego. The church is 300 years old. It was nearly 150 years old when the San Diego mission was founded. It was projected before the Spanish Armada was destroyed and antedates the coming of the Mayflower and the settlement of Jamestown. All that is said of the old Pecos church, may be said of that of Jemez. They were built at the same time. The one at Quivira was founded in 1630, and is a fairly well pre- served ruin. The churches at San Ildefonso and Santa Clara are in a complete state of preservation. They are nine years older than the oldest of the California ruins. The old San Miguel mission in Santa Fe has been rebuilt. Its walls date from 16r)0, the roof from 1694, or possibly a few years later. These are only a few examples selected at random from the large number of ancient churches of equally great interest scattered over New Mexico. Inscription Rock near Zuni and SAN MIGUEL S CHURCH AT SANTA FE. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 133 every one of the pueblos from Taos on the north to Isleta on the south, and from the Rio Grande pueblos in the central part, to Zuni in the west, are all worthy of a visit both for his- toric and present day interest. There is no other building to compare in historic interest with the Old Palace at Santa Fe, and there is no city or town in the United States which offers so much of interest to the tourist as that city. Scenic ^A^onders. New Mexico possesses many scenic attractions. Its moun- tains equal the Alps in ruggedness and height; its valleys and waterfalls have a picturesqueness of their own; its forests such as are included in the Pecos and other forest re- serves offer sylvan retreats of rare beauty; its mesas and plains are not without their attractions, and a visit to its old settlements as well as to the Indian pueblos and the Indian reservations is well worth many miles of travel. The Scenic Route road that is being built between Santa Fe and Las Ve- gas, through the Pecos forest reserve, and over the highest and steepest divides of the Sangre de Cristo range, open to the travehng public as beautiful scenery as any in the world. The Sacramento Mountain Railway in Otero county is a won- der that brings travelers from all parts of the United States. The Gran Quivira ruins, the Salt Lakes, the White Sands, Inscription Rock, the Mai Pais, the Jornada del Muerto, the Guadalupe Caves, possess a weirdness and an interest that have made them world-famous. New Mexico's hot springs, mountain retreats and summer resorts combine many advant- ages and attractions difficult to find anywhere else. New Mexico has an atmosphere of its own, just as Spain, Italy or Greece. Here the civihzation of centuries ago and of today meet; here are found prehistoric ruins and historic monu- ments, the history of yesterday and of today have left their im- pression side by side; the civilization of the Indian, the Span- iard, the Mexican and the Yankee commingle. Still, New Mexico is strictly up-to-date in its government, in its hotels, railroad accommodations, in the protection the law affords, in its universities, its colleges, its pubhc schools, its sanitariums, its charitable institutions, in its progress and in its prosper- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 135 it}'. Churches are found in every settlement, newspapers in every town, together with fine stores, banking institutions and every safety, comfort and luxury that the centers of civi- lization of the east afford. A General Invitation. New Mexico wants more people, it needs them, it has room and resources for them. It offers to immigrants a fine cli- mate, homesteads, great natural resources: to the health seeker health: to the tourist scenic and historic attractions: to the sportsman good fishing and hunting: to the summer and winter guests, the best summer and winter chmate in the world, hot and cold mineral springs, mountain retreats, ranch resorts, good hotel accommodations and the comforts and luxuries of modern communities: to the farmer good crops, not threatened by chmatic vicissitudes: to the coal miner per- manent work and good pay: to the prospector extensive min- eral dejDOsits: to the mechanic and jDrofessional man the same and better chances than anv other country that is setthnscup. room on the top if he deserves it: to the stockman a free range and an ideal climate for stock raismg: to the manufacturer openings to establish factories and mills that should \ield good profits: to the real estate man cheap land and a chance to make money by putting up modern residences, and to the capitahst opportunities to make more money and to buy any- thing that his heart may desire, from a land grant as big as a European kingdom, to a gold or copper mine worth a miUion dollars. Health seekers should come to New Mexico by all means. They should come before disease has made inroads upon the system if they want to be sure of recovery, they should come if the disease has advanced noticeably, for possible cure or a certain prolongation of life: but they should not come without means or provision to pay their way, the first year at least. The jobs for health seekers are few and far between and a health seeker should not work for a living for a time after coming to New Mexico, if he desires to regain his health speedil}'. Living is about as reasonable in cost in Xew Mexico as anywhere else in the L'nited States. The health seeker can live in a tent, on a vacant lot or out on the mesa, and if he THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 1.37 cooks his own meals, living need not cost him $4.00 a week; at a tent city, a hotel or a sanitarium he can have lodging and board from $6.00 to $15.00 a week, and at private houses at from $5.00 to $10.00 a week. The laws of competition and trade are the same here as else- where. Fortunes are very seldom made in one day. The poor man who comes to New Mexico must expect to work and to work hard for a living; the capitalist must invest and invest judiciously to make money. After this is said, however, it can also be truthfully said that New Mexico offers great op- portunities to the honest and intelligent worker to become independent and to gain affluence and civil and political pro- minence; and to the shrewd and careful capitalist, greater and surer returns on his investment than any other section on the face of the Globe. It is to the homeseeker, to the farmer, to the stock raiser, to the miner, to the merchant, to the manufacturer, to the capitalist that New Mexico is an undeveloped empire of mag- nificent resources which throws a peerless climate into the bargain with the rich returns that are offered to the man with capital to invest or with brain and brawn to apply. CHAPTER VIII, COUNTIES, CITIES AND TOWNS. nEW MEXICO has an area of 122,469 square miles; which is more than the area of the kingdom of Italy with its 35,000,000 of people. The population is estimated to be 28-1,000. The Territory is divided into twenty- four counties. The northern are Union, Colfax, Taos, Rio Arriba and San Juan, all bordering on Colorado. The north central are San Miguel, Mora, Santa Fe, Sandoval, Quay and McKinley; the south central are Roosevelt, Chaves, Leonard Wood, Bernalillo, Valencia, Lincoln and Socorro; the southern tier consists of Eddy, Otero, Dona Ana, Luna, Sierra and Grant. A twenty-fifth county, Torrance, with county seat at Progreso, near the geographical center of the Territory, will come into existence on January 1, 1905. Bernalillo County. This is the smallest and most populous of the counties. Area 1,567 square miles, which is several hundred more than the area of the State of Rhode Island. Population 25,500. Assessed valuation in 1903, §3,103,500. Post offices, Albuquer- que, Old Albuquerque, Alameda, Carpenter, Chilih, Griegos, Martinez, Milagros, Padillas, Pajarito, Palma and Isleta. Of its 1,002,962 acres, 563,123 acres have been appropriated, be- ing located mostly in land grants, while 425,000 acres are still subject to entry under the United States land laws. The principal industries are manufacturing, farming, fruit growing, stock raising and railroading. Its central location, great diversity of topography and fine climate, railroad facili- ties and the fact that the Rio Grande flanked by a fertile val- ley on each side, cuts through the county from north to south, place its prosperity on a permanent basis. There are 250,000 acres which eventually can be placed under irrigation and 300,000 acres are considered good pasture. In seasons of average rainfall, the grass grows abundantly and owing to its peculiar character cures on the ground during the fall, and instead of washing out and becoming valueless like the ordi- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 141 dinary grass, it is like hay and makes almost as good feed in the winter as in the summer. The county has quite an irri- gation system. The total area under ditch at present is 20,- 000 acres of which about 5,000 are cultivated. There are many available reservoir sites and room for modern irrigation sys- tems. The soil of the valley is strong, especially in the min- eral elements, being composed almost entirely from detritus from the mountains and foothills and lacking only the addi- tion of a very little animal or vegetable matter now and then to keep it rich indefinitely. The true farming policy is to have small farms, closely cultivated and yielding as land can only be made to yield under irrigation. In addition to the ordinary grain and vegetable crops, tobacco does especially well. Some of the soil being alkaline, asparagus proves very profitable. Besides the Rio Grande, the Rio Puerco flows through the county from north to south, but as it has cut its bed deep into the soil, there is not much irrigation along the upper portion of the stream. The Santa b'e Railway traverses the county. The Santa Fe Central cuts through the eastern part ana the Santa Fe Pacific forms a junction with the Santa Fe at Isleta, in the southern part. The Albuquerque Eastern will soon bo constructed from Moriarty, Santa Fe county, to Albuquerque, over the Tijeras pass in the Sandias, a distance of forty-three miles. It has forty miles of railroad, to which the Albuquerque Eastern when completed will add twenty-five miles. Its principal mountain ranges are the San- dias and the San Ysidros. There are good mineral indications but no large mining camps as yet, although at Milagros in Hell Canon, and in the Sandias, considerable prospecting and some development work has been done. Coal veins crop out on the surface near Tijeras canon in the Sandias and in the north- western part of the county. Isleta, one of the largest Pueblo Indian villages, is situated in the southern part, and as it is at the junction of the Santa Fe Railway and the Santa Fe Pacific Railroad, it is much visited by tourists. The county seat and the largest city of New Mexico, is Albuquerque. In every sense, modern and progressive, it is the acknowl- edged commercial center of New Mexico. Its merchants cover THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 143 a trade territory of about 100,000 square miles, or a district larger than the six New England States and the State of New York combined, which gives the place a wholesale trade much larger than is done by any eastern city of three times its popu- lation. The population of the place, according to the census, was 6,326. Old Albuquerque, which is practically a portion of the city proper, has 1,191 people, and more distant suburban precincts have 4,613 inhabitants, giving the city and suburbs a population of 12,042 at the time of the census of 1900, and a very conservative estimate places the increase since that time at 3,000, making the present total a little more than 15,000. It has a fine system of public schools, with a large and mo- dern school house in each ward and a handsome high school building centrally located. There are in addition, a number of good private schools, while denominational institutions are maintained by the Methodists, Presbyterians and Catholics. It is also the seat of the University of New Mexico, estab- lished and maintained by the Territory and endowed by the United States with a liberal donation of public land. The University buildings are located upon an eminence about 200 feet above the general level of the town, with an unobstructed view for many miles in every direction. With the Sandia Mountains twelve miles east for a background, the view takes in the Jemez mountains, sixty miles north, the San Mateos, seventy miles west, and the Socorro and Magdalenas seventy- five miles south, while with the glass may be seen the Mogo- llons, more than 225 miles to the southwest. The institution has a first class faculty and ranks among the best western colleges. "Hadley Hall," a handsome $20,000 structure, gives the University a department devoted exclusively to the study of climatology, with a special reference to the effect of cli- mate on the cure and prevention of tuberculosis and kindred diseases, the only institution of the kind in the United States. Albuquerque is also the location of a large government In- dian Industrial School with more than 300 pupils. In the matter of religious advantages, the town is very thoroughly equipped. All the leading Christian denominations have con- gregations there, with good commodious houses of worship. There are places for public entertainment and amusement, including the Opera House just completed, in which are H a « w <1 H :s and is connected by telephone with Las Vegas. There are four general stores carrying large stocks. Mora also has a nice court house, a Roman Catholic church, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 207 a Presbyterian church, a Cathohc convent conducted by the Sisters of Loretto, who also maintain a school for girls, and quite a number of pretty homes. The population of the settlement is about 700. It is a pleasant summer resort, and many fishing parties from Las Vegas and other points go there to fish for trout. The Rio de la Casa which comes tumb- ling from the mountains, contains the speckled beauties. Promising mineral jDrospects are in the foothills nearby and health seekers often go to Mora for rest and health. All that Mora needs, to become a large and prosperous town is railroad connection with the outside world. Wagon Mound is the largest settlement, the census of 1900 giving Wagon Mound precinct a population of 895, while the population of the town itself is 500. Its elevation is 6,250 feet above the sea level, and it has a good climate. Mountain peaks make its sur- roundings especially picturesque. The principal occupation of its inhabitants is stock raising and merchandising. Wagon Mound is a prosperous communit}-, with a good public school, which is housed in a modern $5,000 building. The enrollment of pupils is 250, many children from outside attending the schools. There are two large mercantile houses doing an extensive business. A weekly newspaper. El Combate, Span- ish and English, is printed in the town, which also has two churches. Wagon Mound is situated on the main line of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railwa}^, and owing to its climatic advantages and beauty of surroundings is attractive to health seekers. It is a great wool and stock ship^Ding point and the trading center for the Ocate and Mora Valleys. The railroad company has a large sheep dipping plant here. Several fine farms are in the vicinity and offer accommodations to health seekers. Roy is a town but a little over a year old and a station on the Dawson Railroad which runs from Tucumcari in Quay county, to the great coal fields at Dawson in Colfax county. The town has at this time about 300 inhabitants and is growing. There is a large wholesale mercantile establishment there and several smaller stores. A monthly paper, the Roy Observer, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE, 209 is published. Tlie town is surrounded by prosperous stock ranches. Otero County. Area 6,870 square miles; population 7,500; assessed valua- tion in 1903, $1,570,864; post offices: Alamogordo, Avis, Cloudcroft, Hereford, High rolls, Brice, La Luz, Mayhill, Mescalero, Opal, Oran, Orange, Pine Springs, Russia, Three Rivers, Tularosa, Weed and Wright. Excepting agricultural settlements at Tularosa, La Luz, Weed and a few other points, several scattered ranches and a few prospectors in the Jarillas and the Indians on the Mescalero reservation, Otero county, in 1898, was practically^ uninhabited. It was only five years ago that it was created a separate county, but since then it has grown rapidly in population and wealth. About 4,000,000 acres of its area arej however, still subject to entry. Over 2,500,000 acres are open range and 138,000 acres are included in the "White Sands" a deposit of gypsum. The White, the Sacramento, the Hueco, the Jarilla and the Guadalupe ranges are the principal mountain groups. The rivers are but small streams, periodical in their flow, and many, having no outlet, lose themselves in the sands. Tularosa, La Luz, Sacramento creeks and the headwaters of the Penasco, of Eagle creek and other brooks flow from the foothills down picturesque canons into the open valleys and tablelands. A considerable acreage is under cultivation, it being practical to raise crops in parts of the Sacramento and White mountains without irrigation. A dam across Rinconada canon near Tularosa which will impound sufficient water to irrigate 20,000 acres, is projected. The leading industries are stock raismg, cattle, sheep and goats doing equally well: mining, especially in the Jarillas where gold, silver, copper, lead and turquoise deposits exist; lumbering, there being thousands of acres of virgin timber lands in the Sacramento mountains and manufacturing, there being lumber mills, tie preserving plants and railroad shoi3s at Alamogordo. The Mescalero Apache Indian reservation and part of the Lincoln Forest Reserve are in the county. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 211 Alamogordo, the county seat of Otero county, 4,500 feet above the sea level, has experienced the most remarkable growth of any town in New Mexico. Five years ago the town was established and it has today over 4,000 inhabitants, broad streets, brick business blocks well stocked with merchandise, five churches, two large saw mills costing over $200,000, an electric light plant and ice factory, steam laundry, planing mill, a water works system which cost $50,000, a railway hospital, a woman's club, a park a mile long, a daily newspaper, the Alamo- gordo Journal, three weekly newspapers, the Alamogordo News, the Otero County Advertiser and the Alamogordo Journal, a fine railroad depot, a modern and commodious hotel, a fine public .school building and a public library. It is the headquarters of the sixth judicial district. The general offices of the El Paso & Northeastern Railway are located here. Also the Southwestern Baptist College, whose promoters are improving a suburban tract and establishing a great educa- tional institution. The streets are lined with young shade trees and here and there about the city are dotted beautiful parks. The Territory has appropriated $25,000 for the erec- tion at Alamogordo of an asylum for the blind on which construction work has begun. When five years ago, the Alamogordo Improvement Company was organized, the bare acres of the townsite were all that was visible. With a capital of $500,000 and an unlimited fund of foresight and energy the company began work. The original townsite purchase was 1,200 acres, and from the signing of the title deeds to the present time the company has expended in cash $400,000, of which $175,000 were for a city water system, $115,000 for city and suburban irrigation, and the remaining $110,000 for buildings, street and alley construction, and improvements for parks and other city purposes. The city water supply is brought twelve miles from springs in Alamo Canon, the last eight miles of the distance being piped. The system has a gravity pressure of 100 pounds to the square inch. The company platted its land into city lots and one acre suburban tracts, and has brought the waters to its irrigation system from La Luz canon, seven miles away. o Q « O o o < o H I— I > w w Cfi Q « 1— t THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 213 A $25,000 court house has been constructed, a $30,000 railway hospital is to be built and a $75,000 tie preserving plant has been erected. The town is the geographical and commercial center of a fine fruit growing section; has thousands of tributary fertile acres open to government entry; is en'the main line of the shortest route between Kansas City, Denver and El Paso to California and Mexico and is within several hours' jaunt of the famous Cloud City, the areal sum- mer and scenic southwestern resort, with which it is connected by the Sacramento Mountain Railway, one of the engineering wonders of the United States. Tularosa is situated on the El Paso and Northeastern Railway. Its latitude is about thirty-three degrees north and is at the base of the White Mountains, whose highest peak about twenty-five miles distant, rises 12,500 feet. It is supphed with water by the Tularosa creek, which is a mountain stream whose sources consist of several mountain springs, containing iron, magnesia and sulphur, on the reservation of the Mescalero Indians, flowing for about twenty miles through the canon dividing the White Mountains and the Sacramento range. These mountains are covered with pine, fir, juniper, pinon and balsam fir, all of which endow the atmosphere with heahng balm beneficial to the lungs. To the westward are the San Andreas moun- tains, some forty miles away, showing several high peaks and an elevation of about 9,000 feet. Northwest are the Oscura mountains, about seventy-five miles distant. No finer scenery for the painter's brush can be found than is afforded from this dreamy town, in the Tularosa Valley, part of a vast level plain running northerly some sixty miles, and southerly to the Texas line and beyond for 100 miles and some fifty miles in width, a veritable paradise, if properly supplied with water, and this can be provided through storage reservoirs and pumping plants. The temperature of Tularosa and vicinity ranges from the freezing point to ninety degrees Fahrenheit. This is the record for eighteen years. The thermometer reaches its highest point about the middle of August, when for about two weeks it reaches ninety-four degrees at noon, and remains H Cm O W O Q ^ O o H <1 O > THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 215 there until 3 p. m., when it begins to dechne, and at night the breeze sets in from the mountains which renders a blanket necessary before morning. The large number of cottonwood trees which line the streets of Tularosa furnish a dense shade, which makes the warmest days pleasant and agreeable. The real winter usually lasts from about the '20th of December until the 10th of January, and then ice can be seen on the irrigation ditches from one-eighth to one-fourth inch thick. Tularosa being completely landlocked against the winds on the north and east by mountain ranges and spurs from the main ranges, never experiences those sudden changes of temperature which are so severe upon those suffering from throat and lung trouble. Fruits of the temperate zone grow to perfection in Tularosa. There is no record of the failure of the fruit crop since the settlement of the town in 1862. Grapes do well, bees do well, making honey of good quality. Alfalfa grows to perfection producing one to two tons per acre at each cutting and from three to live tons each year. Garden products are unexcelled. Tomatoes grown here are large and of good flavor. Watermelons and cantaloupes do well, the flavor of the cantaloupes being fine and the vines very prolific. The population in and near the town is about 1,200, the census of 1900 giving Tularosa precinct a population of 752. The town has a public school building. The Catholic is the oldest church in the town. The tourist and hunter will find many attractions in the vicinity of Tularosa. Six hours' ride will take the hunter among the wild turkey, blacktail deer and the cinnamon bear, and a day's drive in a buggy will carry the disciple of Walton to where the speckled trout are waiting, greedy for the angler's bait. The mountain ranges show indications of gold, silver, copper, iron and coal. Quay County. Area 2, ft05 square miles; population 4,000; assessed valua- tion in 1903, S7r)0,000. County seat Tucumcari. Post offices : Tucumcari. Dodson, Endee, Montoya, Moore, Quay, Puerto, Revuelto. The county was created by the 35th Legislative Assembly in 1903, and was named in honor of the late United States Senator Matthew Stanley Quay, of Pennsylvania. Guadalupe and Union counties gave up the area to create the THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 217 county, the greater part coming from Guadalupe, now Leon- ard Wood county. The county seat was fixed at Tucumcari, a busy railroad center at the junction of the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railway and the Dawson Railway. These two railroads traverse it and give ample railway facilities and have resulted in the coming of scores of new settlers. Its area is 1,795,270 acres, making it one of the small counties of New Mexico, although it is one and a half times as large as the State of Delaware. Quay is classed as a plains county, but it is by no means entirely level, the surface being broken by hills and peaks, which in spots rise to the dignity of mountains, all being foothills of the great Rocky mountain system. The county is in the drainage area of the Canadian river in its northern part. Besides the Canadian the Pajarito is the principal water course. The Plaza Largo and the Trujillo are other streams, but are dry part of the year. Basins or water holes dot the plains, which are filled with water at times, forming lakes in the rainy season. Being a grazing country, the stock industry flourishes. On its ranges are 150,000 sheep and 30,000 cattle. Tucumcari has become a great wool shipping center, the grade of wool produced being above the average. The mild winters, a good supply of water, and the railroad facilities make the county especially favorable to the stock industry. Agriculture is also carried on upon a small scale, water for irrigation being supplied chiefly from shallow wehs. The water can be raised by wind mills or with gasohne engines. On the Pajarito and around Tucumcari there are good farms. A beginning has been made in raising fruit, the chmate being especially adapted to horticulture, apiarj^, chicken farming, and other branches of husbandry. Excellent building stone is found as well as clay for the making of brick. The chmate, like that of the rest of the Territory, is a specific for lung and throat trouble. The winters are mild and the summers are cool, especially the summer nights. The altitude varies between 4,000 and 6,000 feet. The greater part of the land is subject to entry under the federal land laws, although around Tucumcari the land has been pretty well taken up by homesteaders. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 219 Tucumcari is the principal and only town. There are small settlements at Dodson, Endee, Montoya, Puerco and Revuelto, where post offices and stores are maintained. Tucumcari is a pros- perous town situated at the foot of the Tucumcari mountain, at the junction of the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railway, the Dawson Railway and the Choctaw- Amarillo extension to be completed in the near future. The surround- ing country is a rolling prairie, broken and intercepted by smaU streams and the Canadian river, which flows through the eastern portion. Tucumcari has a population of 1,000, The town is but little over two years old and is making satis- factory growth. Several large new buildings have just been completed. Work is in progress upon a $15,000 court house and jail upon which construction work has commenced and a $10,000 school building was recently completed. The three railroads which form a junction here have drawn plans for a $15,000 union depot as weU as shops and a large round house. Many other smaller buildings including cozy homes, are in course of construction. Tucumcari has two newspapers, The Times and The Democrat. The town commands an extensive trade territory and is the center of a large sheep and wool industry, a wool scouring i^lant having been recently built. Rio Arriba County. Area 5,810 square miles; population 1900 census, 13,177; since then Espanola precinct of Santa Fe county has been added to it. Present population of the county, 16,500. Assessed valuation in 1903, $981,685. County seat Tierra Amariha. Post offices : Tierra Amarilla, Park View, Tusas, Espanola, Chamita, Cordova, El Rito, Canjilon, Vallecitos, Petaca, Hopewell, Chama, Monero, Lumberton, Dulce, Abi- quiu, Alcalde, Coyote, Dixon, Embudo, Gahina, Lyden, Mariana, Rinconada, Truchas, Velarde and Rosa. It is the eighth largest county of the Territory. It has moi-e than five times the area of the State of Rhode Island, thrice that of Delaware, a greater area than Connecticut, and is almost as large as Hawaii. Although a large part is covered by private land grants yet almost 2,000,000 acres are still subject to entry under the federal land laws. CANON ON THE BRAZOS, RIO ARRIBA COUNTY. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 221 Rio Arriba is one of the richest of New Mexico's subdivis- ions, the census of 1902 showing that its agricultural wealth alone amounted to $2,566,000. The surface is very much broken. The principal mountain ranges are the Cumbres, the Gallinas, the Jemez and the Cejita Blanca, a number of the peaks rising to an altitude of 12,000 feet. The mountains give a large drainage area and the streams, in consequence, at certain times of the year carry a large volume of water. As there are many good reservoir sites, a considerable portion of the water supply will at some future day be available for irrigation purposes, but at present most of it flows to waste, only about 50,000 acres being under ditch and 30,000 acres under cultivation. The county is in the drainage area of the Rio Grande, except that small portion west of the Continental Divide. The principal rivers are the Chama with about fifteen tributaries and the Rio Grande. Rio Arriba county has the dry, sunny mountain chmate so much sought for by health seekers. About 140 miles of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad traverse the county, in addition to about thirty-five miles of branch timber railroads. Stock raising, especially sheep, is the main industry. Next in importance is agriculture. Then comes mining, the camp at Monero produc- ing 50,000 tons of coal a year. The Bromide, Hopeweh and Tusas mining districts near Tres Piedras are very promising, copper, gold, silver, lead, platinum and mica being among the mineral products. Lumbering is also an important industry, about 50,000 feet of lumber being cut daily. The Jicarilla Apache reservation is in the county, covering 415,000 acres upon which are 830 Indians making rapid advance. There are many attractions for tourists, among them being the cliff dwellings of the Pajarito Park. Some of the settlements are among the oldest in the United States. Tierra Amarilla is the county seat and is situated in the beautiful Chama Valley, with pretty agricultural settlements around it, the principal of which is Park View. The population of Tierra Amarilla and contiguous settlements, including the charming settlement of Park View, is about 2,200. A weekly newspaper. El Republicano, is pubhshed here. Tierra Amarilla and Park H ID o o <; < H I— ( W w > I— t 15 J « o o o I— I XI THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 249 Mineral Hill, Romero Ranch, Blakes, Sparks, Sapello and Rociada. There one can enjoy all outdoor sports, such as trout fishing, hunting, etc. The lover of nature has here the opportunity of viewing some of the grandest mountain scenery in all the Rocky mountain region, the "Scenic Route"' road being under construction at present across the Pecos Forest Reserve to Santa Fe. Las Vegas affords satisfactory educational advantages, having five public schools, one being a handsome stone structure costing $25,000, and the Territorial Normal School, which has an advanced course of study. These schools employ upward of twenty-one teachers, with an enrollment of 2,200 children and students. Among other schools are the Academy of the Immaculate Conception, conducted by the Sisters of Loretto; a Presbyterian mission, a Methodist Training Manual and a commercial school in connection with the Normal University, as well as several music schools. There is now being erected a Carnegie Library to cost not less than $10,000. Las Vegas is the headquarters of the New Mexico division of the Santa Fe Railway system, and has railroad machine shops, tie preserving works and stock yards. It has two national banks and one savings bank with deposits of nearly a million, three local building and loan associations, a trust company, over a dozen new and commodious hotels, restaurants and boarding houses; commission and whole- sale firms carrying large stocks of merchandise. It is a noted wool center, and the annual sales of that staple reach into the millions. Here is located the largest sheep dipping plant in the country and five wool scouring mills are operated. There are published at Las Vegas the Optic, an eight page daily newspaper, having the Associated Press service; several weekly publications, includ- ing the Weekly Optic and Stock Grower, La Voz del Pueblo, El Independiente and La Revista Catolica. There are twelve churches of various denominations. Las Vegas has about eight miles of electric railway, two electric light plants and a roller flour mill, with a capacity of fifty barrels per day, as well as ordinary flour mills: a manufactury of mineral and carbonated waters; three or more carriage and wagon manufactories; saddle and harness factories; two planing mills, as well as two THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 251 lumber yards; one foundry, one machine shop; two ice plants and a cold storage plant. The town has two telephone exchanges; one that connects this city with Denver and other Colorado points. A large and well equipped sanitarium known as St. Anthony's is conducted by the Sisters of Charity. There are also quarries of building stone near the city. The city has a driving park and the Montezuma hotel and sanita- rium at the Hot Springs is about to be reopened. The Territorial Insane Asylum having accommodations for 200 patients is located here. It is an extensive institution and its capacity and buildings are being increased. An addition to cost $30,000 is now in course of construction. Santa Fe County. Area 2,160 square miles. Population, census of 1900, 14,658; present population is 18,000. Assessed valuation in 1903, $2,458,790. County seat, Santa Fe. Post offices : Santa Fe, Glorieta, Cerrillos, Golden, Kennedy, Madrid, Moriarty, San Pedro, Chimayo, Hobart, Ildefonso, Nambe, Pojoaque, Santa Cruz, Lamy, Cow Springs and Gahsteo. This county does not occupy as conspicuously large an area as many other counties of New Mexico, but owing to the history of its political capital, whence it derives its name, its scenic and climatic attractions and its diversified resources, it naturally takes first rank in interest among the political subdivisions of the Territory. It is the central county of the Territory; is rectangular in form, extending south a distance of seventy-two miles from the thirty-sixth degree of latitude, and measures thirty miles from east to west; embraces a total area of 2,160 square miles, being twice as large as Rhode Island and 200 square miles larger than the State of Delaware. Of this area 950,000 acres are officially pronounced available for cultivation and pastur- age, while thousands of the roughest mountain acres are clothed with timber and ribbed with valuable mineral bearing veins. It is crossed from east to west by the great trans- continental railroad of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe system which operates over seventy miles of road within its borders, and is tapped from the north by the New Mexico division of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, which THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 253 extends within the county from Espanola to Santa Fe, a distance of thirty miles. The Santa Fe Central Railwaj^ has its terminal at Santa Fe, giving the capital direct connec- tion with the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific system. The length of its main line in the county is fifty-five miles. A branch line of the Santa Fe system runs from Lamy to Santa Fe, a distance of eighteen miles. A short branch of the main line also extends to the Madrid coal fields. Wagon roads reach all the towns of the county, and a telephone is in operation from Santa Fe to Cerrillos. From the summit of Mount Baldy the surface presents a magnificent panorama of mountains, mesas and valleys, with many streams of water running down high mountain slopes, over precipices and boulders, into deep and narrow gorges and widening valleys, flashing in the sunlight like ribbons of silver in their hurried and heedless race to the Rio Grande on the west, and with lofty mountain peaks of southern and northern New Mexico swimming in the blue air of the dreamy distance. The main range of the Rockies, or the Sangre de Cristo range on the east and the Cochiti and Jemez mountains beyond the Rio Grande on the west, shelter this favored locality from violent winds and render the climate remarkably mild and equable, considering that the altitude of the valley varies from 5,500 to 7,500 feet above sea level. Doubtless this circumstance together with the fertility of the soil, excellence of the water, plentitude of timber and the many marked manifestations of deposits of gold and silver bearing mineral a few miles south, prompted the intrepid Spanish explorers to locate a j^er- manent colony and mission at Santa Fe, or the City of the Holy Faith of St. Francis, as early as 1603. The wisdom for the selection has been well demonstrated during nearly four centuries that have since melted into the past. With the exception of the twelve years following the bloody and transiently successful revolt of the Pueblo Indians in 1680, Santa Fe has ever since been recognized as one of the most important outposts of civilization and commerce in the southwestern country, being continuously the political, ecclesiastical and military capital of this region under both Spanish and Mexican rule, and though it has since seen the frontier line of the United States carried thousands of miles THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 255 out into the Pacific Ocean, it still maintains its supremacy as the Capital City of New Mexico, the county seat of Santa Fe county, and the most delightful residence city in the Rocky mountains. There are about 500,000 acres of pubhc land subject to entry under the homestead and desert land laws and 557,000 acres more are included in Spanish and Mexican grants. It may be added further that the county affords about 470,000 acres of good grazing land partly covered with timber and about 500,000 acres are arable land, 200,000 acres of which could be irrigated. In the absence of exact data, the land actually under cultivation by means of irrigation is conser- vatively estimated at 10,000 acres, while 5,000 acres more are yearly j^lanted to crops subject to chances of enough rain in the growingseason to mature them. Wherever the valley and mesa lands have been brought under the magic influence of systematic irrigation the results have uniformly proved most satisfactory and naturally this stimulates enterprise annually to enlarge and extend existing irrigation systems and thus gradually increase the number of acres that can be depended upon to yield regular crops. In addition to the Rio Grande, never dry within Santa Fe county and carrying a large volume of water, the Santa Cruz, the Nambe, the Pojoaque, the Santa Fe and the Santa Clara are the principal perennial streams, only part of whose waters are utilized for irrigation. There is a good range, not overstocked. The agricultural valleys produce deciduous fruits that are pro- nounced the finest that can be raised; alfalfa, cereals and vegetables. The mineral resources which include gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc and turquoise, made the county famous two centuries ago. The coal deposits are among the best in the southwest, the only anthracite coal bed in New Mexico being located here. Clay, lime, marble and sandstone of excellent quality are produced. The chmate is the best all around cHmate in the world. Owing to the historic interest, the cliff dwellings, the beauty of the scenery, its easy accessibility, its trout streams and its varied industries, Santa Fe county attracts many tourists and healthseekers. It contains a number of prosperous towns and settlements in addition to the territorial capital. Cerrillos is a mining to u o % w Q CD W « H THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 257 camp which has a good pubhc school and has a smelter, being the center of a rich mining country and near the extensive coal beds owned by the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company at Madrid. Superior building stone is quarried near Cerrillos. In southern Santa Fe county is San Pedro, which when the last census was taken, had 451 people. Here a fine copper smelter has been erected to treat the ores of the extensive workings of the Santa Fe Gold and Copper Company. Near San Pedro is Golden, a prosperous mining camp of 323 per- sons. Galisteo is an old agricultural settlement in the center of a sheep and cattle district. Many nice ranches are in the vicinity. The precinct is credited with 736 people. Glorieta is the starting point for most of the travel and traffic for the upper Pecos river and the Pecos Forest Reserve, and near it are iron and copper ore deposits and coal veins and the interesting ruins of the abandoned Pecos pueblo. Moriarty is the most southern settlement of the county and is at the junc- tion of the Santa Fe Central and the proposed Albuquerque Eastern Railway. Northern Santa Fe county has a number of prosperous agricultural communities. These are Pojoaque, with 798 inhabitants: Santa Cruz, which has 674; Tesuque, 34>s people, the settlement being across the divide, six miles from Santa Fe; San Idlefonso, 392 people, near which the government has completed an irrigation canal for the San Ildefonso Pueblo Indians. Chimayo, in the extreme northern part is credited with 319 people and Canoncito or Lamy, seventeen miles southeast of Santa Fe, with 323 people. Lamj^ is a railroad junction point. A quarry of building and limestone is located near the place. Extensive beds of plaster paris are found a few miles north of this point. While those settlements are not incorporated, yet they all have public schools and are the cen- ters of fertile agricultural, stock or mining districts. There are Indian pueblos all very interesting for their primitive and quaint characteristics. The largest is Santa Clara, with 223 people; San Ildefonso, 137 inhabitants; Nambe, 81; Tesuque, 80, and Pojoaque 12. Along the Santa Fe Central Railway a number of settlements have been located or townsites laid out. They are Kennedy, at the crossing of the Santa Fe Railway; Clark and Stanley near the O'Mara coal fields, Donaciano, on w o H Q W K U Cm - 1^ sjs-^vgit f THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 261 imposing new capitol building, the massive modern Cathedral of St. Francis, the large and enduring stone federal building, the modern penitentiary of New Mexico, San Miguel college, the Garita, the oldest cemetery in the southwest, old Fort Marcy, Guadalupe church, Rosario chapel, Loretto convent, St. Katherine's and the United States Indian Industrial schools, the New Mexico Industrial school for the deaf and dumb; Cathohc, Presbyterian, Episcopal and Methodist churches; the large Presbyterian Mission school, St. Vin- cent's Orphan school, besides many fine business blocks and pretty residences. Here, also side by side, are object lessons whereby the civilization of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries can be studied in contrast with that of the present day as nowhere else in America. Environed by protecting hills and thus exempt from strong winds and sandstorms: surrounded by enchanting natural scenery; beautified by orchards and gardens of flowers; blessed with a climate that is free from extremes of heat and cold, and air that is pure and tonic; supphed with an abun- dance of pure water for domestic, manufacturing and irrigation purposes from the extensive storage reservoirs in the mouth of the Santa Fe canon; furnished with competing rail, express and telegraph communication with all outside points; the headquarters of the federal and territorial officials, the meeting place of the legislature, the supreme court, the United States and territorial district courts and the various territorial boards; the see of the archbishop of Santa Fe; the location of the headquarters of the New Mexico Historical society; a city having started a modern sewerage system; preparing to build a fine modern central school house up to the highest standard of excellence and possessing a public school system with a good high school and four ward schools, and endowed by the national government for pubhc school purposes with the Fort Marcy reservation of almost twenty acres in the heart of the city, Santa Fe is naturally forging to the front as a popular residence town. It has besides the Cathedral, three Roman Cathohc churches, a Protestant Episcopal church, an English and a Spanish Presbyterian and Methodist church. The United States maintains a Weather Bureau here. The THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 263 two reservoirs of the Santa Fe Water and Light Company located above the city on the Rio Santa Fe cost about $300,000, and consist of a large reservoir or artificial lake secured by means of a semi-circular dam across the canon 600 feet long, 350 feet wide, securely tied to the bed rock and 120 feet high, with mains and service pipes extending to every part of the city; and a smaller reservoir on the hih side which, with a new ditch line from the canon, supplies the power required to operate the city's electric light plant, which is supple- mented by steam. There is here the oldest bank in New Mexico. Its business houses command a large trade area and it is a gateway through which passes a big share of the wool and other products of Rio Arriba, Taos, San Juan and Santa Fe counties, as weh as of southern Colorado, bound for the south or for the east. The Woman's Board of Trade is a unique and characteristic institution. The public plaza and library are entirely under its direction. There are fine hotel accommodations; besides a sanitarium conducted by the good Sisters of Charity, and a tent city which offers comfortable homes to health- seekers and tourists. Draw a circle of fifty miles radius with Santa Fe as the center. It will take in the heart of New Mexico. Within it will be found a score of producing mining districts. Not only gold, but copper, silver, lead, zinc, iron, coal, turquoise, quarries of marble, building stone, hmestone, beds of clay, deposits of gypsum and veins of mica. In that circle are found some of the best agricultural lands in the southwest. Here are raised some of the best fruits, the best sugar beets, the best grains in the world, and it includes the Espanola, the Tesuque, the Chama, the Taos and other valleys. Within that circle there is room and chance for profitable irrigation enterprises. In that circle flow the waters of the Rio Grande, the Nambe, the Rio Pueblo, the Truchas, the Pojoaque, the Pecos, the Santa Clara, the Santa Cruz, the Chama and other streams, all perennial rivers with a never failing water supply in their upper courses. In that circle are found the water power, the fuel, the raw material for a hundred great industries. The circle is the most densely populated area in New Mexico or Arizona, and offers cheap SIERRA COUNTY MINING SCENES. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 265 and plentiful labor for industrial enterprises and at the same time a good market. In that circle are superior sheep, cattle and goat ranges and forests. New Mexico has the finest climate in the world and in that circle is the best climate in New Mexico. Within it is the great Pecos River Forest Reserve, which insures a supply of water, a summer retreat for tourists, healthseekers, pleasure seekers, sportsmen and to the tired person who seeks quiet and rest in communion with nature in its most sublime and gentlest moods. Here are located the famous cliff dwelhngs, the pyramids of America, ten Indian pueblos, the oldest buildings in the United States, a hundred spots which awaken memories of the romance of the great stretch of time between the coming of the Conquistadores and the supplanting of the Santa Fe Trail by railroads. It is a circle invaded by three railroads and their important branches and connections, a circle near whose circumference are located the cities of Albuquerque and Las Vegas, which, with Santa Fe, form the three largest and most important towns in the future "Sunshine State." In the center of the circle lies the city, whose name is one to conjure with, a name given to one of the great transcontinental railway systems, a town whose very name is an invitation to the healthseeker, to the tourist, the capital of the coming Sunshine State, a county seat, an archbishop's see, the location of many federal, territorial. Catholic, Protestant church institutions, a town most charmingly situated, with a peerless climate all the year around, and a better summer climate than is possessed by any summer resort in the world, free from native consump- tion, malaria, enteric epidemics, mosquitoes,excessive summer heat. These and many more are the advantages, resources and attractions, the hub of which is the City of Santa Fe. Sierra County. Area 3,081 square miles. Population, census of 1900, 3,168. Present population, 5,000. Assessed valuation in 1903, $1,326,920. County seat, Hillsboro. Post offices : Hillsboro, Lake Valley, Engle, Fairview, Chloride, Las Palomas, Andrews, Kingston, Arrey, Hermosa, Monticello, Shandon, Philipsburg and Tierra Blanca. SCENES NEAR HILLSBORO. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 261 Sierra is one of the smallest of New Mexico counties, only six having a less area, yet it covers 1,971,960 acres, or 3,081 square miles, three times the area of the State of Rhode Island and more than one and a half times the area of the State of Delaware. Of this, 1,775,000 acres are subject to entry under the federal land laws, of which 274,379 acres are unsurveyed. Only 112,600 acres have been appropriated, and 84,000 acres are reserved. The census of 1900 gives the value of farms and hve stock as $1,829,000. Sierra county is rough and unbroken and the water sup- ply is scant, the precipitation ranging from four to six inches during the summer, while the total per annum is probably in the neighborhood of ten inches. Irrigation is generally confined to the valleys of the few small streams flowing eastward toward the Rio Grande. None of these, however, discharge water into the river, excepting during seasons of excessive snowfall or heavy summer rains. Although the water supply is small, it is constant and probably on this account a higher duty of water is reached in this district than in any other portion of the Territory. Altogether there are about 5,000 acres under cultivation, but with the available water supply, probably 50,000 acres could be cultivated. Dairy products are in demand and bring high prices. Anything that will grow in southern Kansas and Oklahoma will grow here. Crops are certain, for by irrigation the farmer escapes the vicissitudes of floods and drouth. Fruit does exceedingly well in the river valleys and there are a number of fine bearing orchards. Natural reser- voir sites are numerous. At comparatively small expense these advantages can be utilized for the storage of flood waters. The county has a fine range. It is one of the best stock counties in the Territory. There is a good underground water supply that can be developed by wells. Sheep men and goat raisers are beginning to realize that on account of the mild winters and the good range, Sierra county is a fine sheep and goat raising country. The county takes the lead in the New Mexico goat industry. In fact, its fame in that direction, is becoming national. Some of the highest grade prize Angora ewes and bucks are to be found on its famous goat ranches and the names of the leading goat raisers SCENES AT HILLSBORO. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 269 are known in every one of the most important goat markets of the United States. The industry is proving very profitable. The county is a treasure house of precious metals. It has produced millions of dollars vi^orth of gold, silver and lead. The most important mining camps are Hillsboro, Lake Valley, Kingston, Fairview, Philipsburg, Shandon and a number of camps in the Black Range. The Santa Fe Railway passes through Sierra county from north to south. At Palomas Hot Springs are springs of remarkable medicinal virtue. Hillsboro is the largest settlement in the county and is the county seat, the court house being a handsome brick and stone trimmed structure. The town is reached by stage from Lake Valley in two hour's ride, the distance being less than sixteen miles. The town has a bank, a weekly newspaper, the Sierra County Advocate, good stores and is surrounded by gold and silver mines and placers reached by good roads. It is the oldest mining camp in the county, its mineral resources having been discovered in 1868. The predominating ore of the district is a quartz impregnated with copper and copper pyrites and car- rying gold in the proportion of one ounce to four or five of silver. The surface ores to a depth varying from fifty to 150 feet, are much oxidized and constitute free milling ore. Copper is an important product, varying in percentage to the ton from one to twenty. There are four mills in and around Hillsboro. East of the lode mines is an extensive area, comprising several thousand acres and known as the placers. With crude dry washers some $500,000 in gold have been taken from these placers. In the valley between Hillsboro and the mines are warm springs having medicinal and curative properties. Socorro County. Socorro county is the largest of New Mexico counties, covering an area of 15,250 square miles, being as large as a European kingdom. Its resources correspond to its area, in variety and extent. It is first of all a stock grazing country, the number of sheep on its ranges going into the millions, and the number of cattle exceeding 100,000. Next to stock raising, mining is a great wealth producer, the Mogollon THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 271 district alone lias yielded $5,000,000 in gold and silver. The Magdalena and Kelly districts have done almost as well in silver and lead and are now big producers of zinc. Rosedale produces gold, Estey copper and Water Canon, Socorro and other districts, the precious as well as the baser metals. There are extensive coal beds in the western part while the coal veins at Carthage are being actively worked. Lime, building stone, gypsum and salt are among the other mineral products. Agriculture in the Rio Grande Valley and along some of the minor streams is very successful. In the south- w^estern part, especially in the Gila Forest Reserve, there are large areas in timber. The Rio Grande traverses the county. Its principal tributary here is the Puerco. The Gila and the San Francisco rivers are important water sources in the western portion. The Santa Fe Railway, with a branch line from Socorro to Magdalena, furnishes railroad facilities. The population is 15,000. The post offices are: Alma, Burley, Bernardo, Bursum, Cienega, Clyde, Cooney, Datil, Estey, Frisco, Graham, Gran Quivira, Joseph, Jornado, Kelly, La Joya, Lava, Lemitar, Luna, Magdalena, Mogollon, Patterson, Puertocito, Polvadera, Paraje, Quemado, Rosedale, Reserve, Salt Lake, San Acacia, San Antonio, San Marcial and Socorro. In the county are greater areas of undeveloped natural wealth than in any other part of the Territory. The pros- pector, the farmer, the manufacturer, the reservoir and railroad builder all can find inducements here, which are worthy of careful investigation. Socorro, the county seat, is also the largest town. The census of 1900 gave it 1,515 inhabitants. The country round about is rich in mineral and agricultural resources. The waters of the Rio Grande, which flow near the city, are ample to irrigate a large area, the waters of the Puerco and the Salado augmenting its volume considerably twenty or thirty miles north. The Carthage coal fields are so near to Socorro that they may be called tributary to the city, and the mining camps of Kellj^ Magdalena and Water Canon, are also tributary, making it a favorable smelter site. The town has large brick yards and three flouring mills. The city is beautifully situated on a table- o « O o o m m H Z H O 03 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 273 land at the foot of Socorro mountain. The Rio Grande is about two miles from it. The city owns and controls its own water works, the supply being derived from warm springs of excep- tionally pure water flowing from the base of Socorro mountain. The town has two banking institutions, two weekly papers, the Socorro Chieftain and El Defensor del Pueblo, two substantial school buildings, churches and good business houses. The New Mexico School of Mines is located here. Its elevation is 4,567 feet. San Marcial, the second largest town, is attractive for the reason that twenty-one years ago the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway Company planted great avenues of cottonwood trees, and these have constantly been added to by citizens, until now the town is known far and wide for the beauty and coolness of its groves. It is important commercially because it is the supply point for a large area of country. Four mercantile firms draw trade from a wide territory occupied by people engaged in the cattle and sheep business, and the neighboring towns of Clyde, Rosedale, Paraje, Engle and Chloride. Its population is a little above the 1,000 mark. The town has a beautiful park. It is a division headquarters of the Santa Fe Railway Company and here are located a round house and repair shops. A modern flouring mill is conducted for the convenience of a large number of farmers in the rich Rio Grande Valley. Fruitful orchards surround it, and it is a rich agricultural, horticultural, live stock and mining region. Alfalfa is extensively grown, and when there is an ample supply of water, which is taken from the Rio Grande through ditches, four crops in one season are of common occurrence. This finds a ready market, the price per ton ranging from $10 to $14. There is a good public school building and there are several churches. The town has a weekly newspaper, the San Marcial Bee. There is a bank and there are a goodly number of business firms. Located near the center of the Territory, at an elevati(m of a little over 4,000 feet, the climate makes it a sanitarium for consumptives. Here are to be found all the conditions for a healthy and happy life, with the opportunities to realize the w < < m EH < P 1-1 I— I D pq >J O O a o en o I— I m u THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 275 maximum of profit in the lines of agriculture and horticulture. San Marcial is not devoid of historical interest. One of the features of the town is a large and extensive promontory known as the mesa. Here occurred the battle of Valverde, fought February 20, 1862, by General Sibley's Texans and the Union forces under General Canby. The severest part of the battle occurred about the present site of San Marcial. Frequently cannon balls and other relics are plowed up on the east side of the river. Carthage is a prosperous coal camp and is being connected by railroad with San Antonio, a lively commercial center on the Santa Fe Railway. At San Acacia, a weekly newspaper. El Comercio, is published. Near the settlement are copper ore deposits. Mogollon and Cooney are famous mining camps. Taos County. Area 2,265 square miles. Population 13,000; census of 1900, 10,889. Assessed valuation in 1903, $677,820. County seat, Taos. Post offices : Taos, Ranchos de Taos, Llano, Penasco, Arroyo Seco, Questa, Arroyo Hondo, Cerro, Red River, Tres Piedras, Costilla, Ojo Caliente, Midnight, Agua del Lobo, Trampas, Twining, Valdez, Pima, Talpa and Chamisal. The county is the most picturesque and in many respects one of the richest in mineral resources in New Mexico. It is also one of the oldest in point of settlement by white men and one of the best watered. At one time it included Colorado south of the Arkansas river, Colfax and Mora counties and part of Rio Arriba county, but at present it is small in extent. Yet, its area is 1,470,000 acres, or 2,265 square miles, being more than twice the area of the State of Rhode Island and 305 square miles more than the State of Delaware. Of this almost one-half, or 650,000 acres, are open to entry under the federal land laws; 300,000 acres are still unsurveyea. About 120,000 acres are reserved and 700,000 acres are appropriated, about 600,000 acres being included in private land grants. The county is one of the most densely populated in the Territory, but could support five times its present popula- tion. The Rio Grande traverses it from north to south, H O O m O < ft +-> o W iz; w I— I <1 o o o THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 277 but through rocky gorges, hence the cultivated lands are along its tributaries. The county is characterized by the great number of small perennial streams which, rising in high ranges on the east, debouch at about one-third the general width of the district upon the high mesas forming the central and western thirds and flow into the Rio Grande. The Taos range, comprising the catchment area from which these streams derive their waters, ranges in altitude from 7,000 to 13,000 feet above sea level, with slopes tree-clad and with precipitation greater than in many sections of the Territory. Only one-half of the a\ailable water is used and with the building of storage reservoirs, the area under cultivation would be 200,000 acres instead of 20,000 acres. The cereals yield prolifically and vegetables and fruit grow well. The county is rich in gold, copper ores and other minerals, the principal mining camps being Red River, Glenwoody and Twining. There are a number of lesser camps. About 200,000 sheep, 10,000 goats and 5,000 cattle graze on the ranges. At Ojo Caliente are famous medicinal hot springs. At Wamsley and near Taos are also hot springs w^hich attract many healthseekers. The railroad facilities are meager. The Denver and Rio Grande has not quite fifty miles of narrow gauge tracks in the extreme western part, near the Rio Arriba boundary line, but Tres Piedras is the only settlement of an}^ consequence it touches, although there is also a station at Embudo, which is several miles from the town of that name. The scenery along this railroad, especially from Embudo to Barranca, is among the grandest in the southwest. From Embudo and Tres Piedras stations to Taos there are roads with daily stage lines, while the mining camps of Red River and Amizett and the settlements of Cerro and Questa also have road connection as have to a lesser extent all the post offices. Recently a new road was completed from Taos to Servilleta, on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, making the distance from the county seat to the railroad only twenty-two miles. Portions of the county are heavily timbered. On account of the difficulty in bringing the merchantable timber from the steep mountain sides to the railroad, saw mills are in THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 279 operation in various parts, the principal being near Questa, Truclias and Twining. Fernandez de Taos is the county seat and is romantically situated in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains which rise abruptly from the plain. It is a very interesting town, quaintly built around a large plaza. The Roman Catholic church is of great antiquity. Before the advent of the railroads in New Mexico it was a com- mercial center of great importance and even today enjoys a good trade. Among the early American residents were Col. Kit Carson, Governor William Bent, who was assassinated here during the Pueblo insurrection, Colonel Ceran St.Vrain, Judge Beaubien, Lacien Stewart and others. Here the first printing press west of the Missouri river was set up in 1837 by Rev. Antonio J. Martinez and the first newspaper, El Crepusculo, was pubhshed. A good public school, mission schools and a Loretto academy are the educational facihties of this town. A weekly newspaper, printed in Enghsh and Spanish, called Re vista de Taos, is pubhshed here. It has a population of 1,500. Only three miles to the northwest, under the shadow^s of the great mountains, and occupying both sides of a clear bright river, is the Pueblo of Taos, undoubt- edly the most interesting Indian settlement on all the Western Continent. Scores of tourists come to visit it annually, especially on its annual feast day, San Geronimo, September 30. The Jicarilla Apache Indians, the Navajoes, as well as the pueblos from the south, send delegations to this festival, and the settlers from scores of miles around gather at the pueblo on that day. The population of the pueblo has decreased in numbers the past few decades, and is but few over 400 at present. The Indians cling tenaciously to their primitive customs. Ranchos de Taos is four miles south of Fernandez de Taos and is the largest settlement. It has two flouring mills and is surrounded by orchards. It is the center of 60,000 acres of fertile land, of which one-sixth is under cultivation. It has a public school and is the headquarters of the Presbyterian missions of this section. The population is 1,800. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 281 ^.^ Red River is a romantically situated mining camp with about 300 population, a good public school, and a weekly newspaper, the Red River Prospector. Tres Piedras is a railroad, mining and lumber town on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad andadistributingpoint for the Bromide and Good Hope mining districts in Rio Arriba county, and the terminus of a daily stage line from Taos. A newspaper, the Mining Reporter, is pubhshed here. Embudo is a prosperous agricultural settlement on the Rio Grande, situated at the foot of high mountains. It has a railroad station several miles south of it, from where a daily stage line for Taos, Twining and other points starts. It has a pubhc school and a mission school. Twining, formerly Amizett, is a mining camp, with several hundred inhabitants. It is the headquarters of the Fraser Mountain Mining Company. The mill, smelter, electric power and light works, offices, etc., of this company are situated here. Questa and Cerro are prosperous agricultural settlements. Costilla, Pima, Agua del Lobo, Arroyo Seco, Llano, Trampas and Penasco, are agricultural settlements surrounded by fertile lands under cultivation. Picuris is a quiet Indian pueblo with a population of 100 and several historic buildings. Union County. Area 6,037 square miles. Population, census of 1900, 4,528. Since then the county has given 255 square miles to the formation of Quay county. Its present population is 6,500. Assessed valuation in 1903, $2,021,640. Post offices : Clayton, Folsom, Albert, Barney, Beenham, Bryantine;, Bueyeros, Clapham, Genova, Leon, De Haven, Exter, Pasamonte, Telesfora, Veda, Logan, Cuates, Gladstcme, Nara Visa, Garcia and Gallogos. SCENES AT CLAYTON, UNION COUNTY. THE LAND OP SUNSHINE. 283 Union, the northeastern county of New Mexico, was formed in 1893 out of portions of Colfax, Mora and San Miguel counties. This county is the seventh in size in New Mexico, and the seventeenth in population. It is more than five times as large as Rhode Island, three times as large as Delaware and as large as the Hawaiian Islands. Of its area only 727,000 acres have been appropriated, while 3,140,000 acres are still subject to entry under the United States land laws or to lease from the territorial land board, which controls large tracts in the county under the United States donations to the territorial institutions and the public schools. Stock raising is the principal industry and the source of its wealth. It is one great range, well adapted to cattle growing and sheep raising. The mild winters, the free range and the nourishing grasses, make stock raising very profitable here. Of the 60,000 cattle on the range many are a good grade of Herefords, and a number of model stock farms are to be found. The number of sheep exceeds 600,000, it leading all others in the territory in the sheep industry. At Clayton, the county seat, 3,000,000 pounds of wool are sold annually, while buyers of lambs for feeding and breeding purposes, make frequent visits to Clayton and Folsom. Each year 100,000 lambs are shipped to Colorado and Kansas City points, where they are fed for market. Of late years quite a number of cattlemen have been raising alfalfa on a small scale for feeding purposes. Altogether about 2,000 acres have been put under cultivation. The sheep growers will undoubtedly soon follow this example. The cattle men are rapidly improv- ing their stock by importing registered cattle from the states. The raising of goats is a growing industry as well as the breeding of horses for market, both proving profitable. Rail- roads afford good facilities for the shipment of stock. Whenever water is available for irrigation purposes, crops of grain, vegetables and fruits can be raised with unvarying annual success. There are a number of orchards in which every variety of fruit of the temperate zone is raised. Wild fruits and nuts grow in abundance along the streams and on the mountain slopes. If the flood waters which run down the river beds at certain seasons were stored, fully 100,000 acres could be brought under cultivation. Many natural reservoir THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 285 sites exist. Ten miles west of Polsom, commences the John- son mesa, 8,000 feet high, extending into Colfax county almost to Raton, on which without irrigation fine potatoes are raised, also large crops of oats. Mining is in its infancy, but there are undoubted indications of gold, silver, copper and lead ores in various precincts. Coal deposits exist in the northern part, the veins being an extension of the Trinidad fields in Colorado. A good grade of bituminous coal is found near Clayton, and development work is being done in a desultory way. The distance from the railroad prevents these prospects from becoming producers. Coal veins also underlie Johnson's mesa. Indications of oil can be pointed out along many streams, and often in drilling for water, oil sands and rock are struck. Fine mineral springs are at Folsom, and there is but little doubt that artesian water will be found at a moderate depth. On Ute creek are deposits of pure alum, while excellent lime quarries are found and worked near Folsom. The Colorado and Southern Railroad crosses the northeast- ern corner for a distance of eighty-four miles. The Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railroad passes through its southern part. The climate is as good as is to be found in the United States. The altitude ranging from 4,000 to 8,000 feet, giving the air a lightness that is especially beneficial in pulmonary troubles. The nights are always cool and the summer heat is moderated by the altitude as well as the cool breezes from the mountains, while the cold in winter is tempered by the constant sunshine and protection which the mountains afford from high winds. The county seat is Clayton, situated in the northeastern part on the Colorado and Southern Railway. Here the federal land office for the northeastern part of New Mexico is situated. The town has a population of HOO. It has electric lights and water works, a telephone system, a very good public school system and a fine i^ublic school building, Methodist, Baptist and Christian churches many business establishments, a $20,000 court house, and contains nice homes. From here 3,000,000 pounds of wool, 160 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 287 carloads of cattle, and 400 carloads of sheep and lambs are shipped annually. Two weekly newspapers, one in English, the Clayton Enterprise, and the other in Spanish, El Fenix, are published here. There is a national bank here. Of late years the town has attracted many healthseekers. Coal deposits are being w^orked in a small way near Clayton. Folsom is the second largest town, having a population of 750. It is situated on the Colorado and Southern Railway and is gaining fame as a health resort. It is 6,400 feet above sea level and is located in a beautiful valley. The Sierra Grande, twelve miles distant, rises to an altitude of 11,500 feet. During the summer months this mountain is one mass of flowers, and is a magnificent sight. Sierra Capulin, five miles from the town, is 9,500 feet high and is an extinct volcano with a perfect crater. The view from Capulin is grand. Nine miles from Folsom, on the Colorado and Southern Railway, are the so- called American Alps. Emery's Peak and Buffalo Head are also visible. Twin Mountains, Robinson's Peak, Dale's Peak and Red Mountain can be seen on clear days, and 330 days each year are clear at Folsom. The Cimarron Falls near the Hotel Capulin, a sanitarium built at a cost of §75,000 but not completed, are grand. Numerous springs bubble forth from the sides of the mountains inclosing the valley of the Cimarron in which Folsom is situated. The waters of some of the springs are almost absolutely pure, while others are charged with mineral and cure persons suffering from gout, rheumatism, neuralgia, stomach troubles and certain forms of kidney disease. Several sulphur springs and sulphur wells near Folsom are beneficial to persons suffering from skin diseases and impure blood. The most celebrated spring is in Oak canon, near the town, the waters of which are superior to those of the famous springs at Manitou, Colorado. These waters contain sulphur, magnesia and carbonic acid gas. Folsom is an important trade center. Immense sheep dipping tanks have been erected hej-e by the Colorado and Southern Railway and the shipments of wool, sheep, lambs and cattle from this point annually are very large. It has an $H,000 pubhc school house. Water is found anywhere in the Cimarron THE LAND OP SUxXSHINE. 289 Valley at a depth of from fourteen to thirty feet and is free from alkali. Indications of gold, silver, copper and lead ores and coal are found near the town. Lime quarries are located near and the product is being utihzed in the manufacture of plaster. Valencia County. Area 7,944 square miles. Population, census of 1900, 13,895; present population, 18,000. Assessed valuation in 1903, 11,359,786. County seat, Los Lunas. Post offices: Belen, Los Lunas, Jarales, Peralta, Tome, Publitos, Duran, Pinos Wells, Mountainair, Amado, Bluewater, Copperton, Cubero, Grant, Kettner, Laguna, Marquez, San Mateo, San Rafael, Sebolleta, Eastview, Manzano, Tajique, Torreon, Willard, Estancia, Punta and Encino. It is the third largest of New Mexico counties, covering an area of 7,944 square miles, which is more than seven times the area of the State of Rhode Island; more than four times the area of the State of Delaware; almost twice the area of the State of Connecticut, and greater than that of Hawaii. Of this vast stretch 3,400,000 acres are still unappropriated and are being taken up at the rate of ] 0,000 acres a year by home- steaders. Quite a large portion is included in private Spanish and Mexican grants, while about 401,000 acres are reserved. The principal stream is the Rio Grande, which passes through the county from north to south. There is a large area (^f irrigated land on both sides of the river along its entire course. The Puerco, which at times has a flood discharge of about 32,000 second feet, is a tributary of the Rio Grande and flows through the county. Along the Puerco and its tributaries, something like 14,000 acres are under irrigation. The character of the country through which the Puerco passes is hilly and broken. Its altitude ranges from 4,000 to 7,000 feet and the annual precipitation is very light, averaging only seven inches. For that reason there are but few perennial streams in the whole drainage area. Naturally, in so large an area as that covered by Valencia county, almost every variety of topography is found. The Continental Divide crosses from north to south. East of the Rio Grande the Manzano is the principal mountain range, forming a water THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 291 shed between the Rio Grande drainage basin and the dry- mesas of the eastern part. East of the Manzanos are the Pedernal and the Animas Hills. In the western part the Zuni mountains and the San Mateo range are the principal mountain systems. A vast lava bed extends the entire breadth of the county east of the Continental Divide. East of the Manzano mountains lies a region of low plains, bounded on the west by the timbered foothills of the Manza- nos and on the east by a low and barren ridge, terminating at the north in the hills of Pedernal and at the south in the Animas Hills. The abrupt exposure of the Jumanes mesa bounds this broad valley on the south, while on the north the plains continue almost unbroken to the San Pedro and Ortiz mountains and the rough country east of these groups. The southern portion of this valley is known as the Estancia plains, and is remarkable for the salt and alkali basins which occupy the central portion. The county is rich in minerals, but thus far but comparatively little has been done to make the mineral wealth available. Gold, silver, copper and iron ores, sulphur, lithographic stone, gypsum, brick clay, salt, pumice stone, ochre, building stone, cement, potash and most important of all, coal in almost limitless quantities, are found. During the year 1903, 500 tons of salt were taken from the salt lakes in this county. Gold, silver and copper ores exist in the Zuni mountains, in Hell Canon, where a mining camp has been established, and in the Manzanos. In the Zuni mountains, especially in the Copperton district, considerable develop- ment work has been done. Ochre is found in the foothills of the Gallinas, which extend into eastern Valencia county. More salt is exported from this county than from any other in the territory, and is hauled to market by wagons and by the Santa Fe Central Railway. It has a greater railroad mileage than any other county in the Territory. The Santa Fe Central crosses the eastern part from north to south from Moriarty to Bianca station. The Santa Fe Railway cuts the central portion from north to south, entering south of Isleta and leaving north of Sabinal, a distance of twenty-five miles. The Santa Fe Pacific Railroad commences at Isleta and leaves it northwest of Bluewater, the distance being eighty miles. ?'•'*)* -^^ I#^ 'A 4 ' , ( < H <1 H w w H K L-::-»J THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 293 The El Paso and Rock Island Railway also crosses the eastern part of the county, but east of the Santa Fe Central, entering near the junction with the Santa Fe Central at Torrance, in Lincoln county, and leaving it near Pintada, in Leonard Wood county, a distance of thirty miles. The Eastern Railway of New Mexico, which the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway is building to Puerco, will traverse the county from east to west for 160 miles, crossing the Rock Island, the Santa Fe Central at Willard and the Santa Fe line from Albuquerque to El Paso at Belen, forming a junction with the Santa Fe Pacific at Rio Puerco. When these lines are completed, and they will be in 1905, the county will have about 400 miles of railroad. The county has about 200 miles of telegraph and a telephone line extends from Albuquerque to Belen and Los Lunas. The lands under irrigation are very fertile and the climate is good for the raising of grain, vegetables and fruit. Wheat from Valencia county captured the first premium at the World's Fair at Chicago and again a gold medal at the Charleston Exposition, the wheat weighing fifty and one-half pounds per bushel. Oats grown on a farm six miles from Los Lunas took the second prize at the Columbian Exposition. The principal crops are wheat, barley, oats, corn, alfalfa and all vegetables and fruits of the south temperate zone. Some of the finest orchards in the southwest are located here. Grapes are grown in large quantities, the Mission grape predominat- ing, but other varieties sach as the Tokay, Sultana, Concord and Muscat do very well. Alfalfa is a staple crop in some of the valleys in the Zuni mountains and in several other hill districts, crops are grown without irrigation the rainfall being sufficient to mature them. The mild winters, cool summers, good water, nutritious grasses and sheltered valleys and canons have attracted the cattle raiser and the sheep grower. It is one of the leading sheep raising sections in New Mexico; it is estimated that there are within its limits, 400,000 or more sheep and thousands of cattle and horses. Lately, some attention has been paid to the raising of goats, and the success is such that the number of these animals will be very much on the increase during the next few years. At Belen is one of the largest flour mills in the Territory. At Laguna and BUSINESS HOUSES AT BELEN. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 295 Peralta there are also fine modern flour mills. There are extensive timber lands which of late have attracted the attention of lumbermen and capitalists. The so-called Mitchell tract in the northwestern part covers 800,000 acres, on which it is estimated there are 2,000,000,000 feet of good white pine lumber. The American Lumber Company, a syndicate capitalized at §8,000,000, is cutting this timber. A logging road has been built from Thoreau on the Santa Fe Pacific to the tract. Belen is situated forty miles south of Albuquerque, in almost the exact geographical center of Valencia county, on the west bank of the Rio Grande. It has an altitude of 4,200 feet. Its population is 1,200. The stretch of country in the center of which the town is located cannot be excelled for fertilit}^ and productiveness. Belen stands above all other communities in New Mexico in that it has the largest merchandise establishment; the largest flour mill; is the largest railroad shipping point in proportion to population; raises the best grapes and holds the first prize for wheat at the World's Columbian Exi^osition at Chicago. Belen has several well established general merchandise stores, two general wholesale establishments and one roller mill. The First National Bank of Belen attends to the banking- business of the place. The Catholics as well as the Protestants have each a comfortable and commodious church edifice. In front of the Catholic church stands one of the most artistic architectural monuments in the southwest, the Felipe Chaves Mausoleum, built at a cost of $ir),000. The school facilities of Belen are good, there being three schools, the Felipe Chavez Girl's Academy, the Becker school and the public school. The Territory recently established an orphan's school here. The railroad facihties consist of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway connecting the city with the extreme northern and southern portions of the Territory and the country that lies between. The Eastern Railway of New Mexico, now under construction, will give ''^^'isr \^s *». - 'W HOTEL AND DEPOT AT ALBUQUERQUE. THE LAND OP SUNSHINK, 297 direct connection with the Santa Fe Central Railway and the El Paso and Northeastern. Los Lunas is the county seat and is situated on the west bank of the Rio Grande, twenty-four miles south of Albuquerque. The population is 1,000. it has a two story court house and a large Cathohc church. There is a substantial bridge across the Rio Grande opposite the town. There are two large general stores here. It is a prosperous shipping point, especially for wool and alfalfa. A rich agricultural and stock region surrounds it. The town is connected by telephone with Albuquerque. Estancia is situated in the eastern part of the county on the Santa Fe Central Railw^ay. It is the center of the beautiful Estancia plains. The Santa Fe Central has located here its railroad shops. The nearby salt and alkali lakes are to furnish the raw material for a salt mill. The town has a good school house. San Rafael claims to be the most populous settlement, having 1,500 inhabitants. It is the center of a rich agricultural and stock section, and is located three miles from the Santa Fe Pacific Railroad, in the San Jose River Valley. Forty years ago it was known as old Fort Wingate. The lands around it are irrigated by the waters of El Gallo spring, the largest in New Mexico, tilhng a ditch of clear water six feet wide at the bottom and forty feet wide at the top. Along this stream there are rich agricultural lands covering 4,000 acres which produce all kinds of grain, vegetables and fruit. The fifth town in population is Peralta, the scene of a bloody battle in the Civil War. It is situated in the valley of the Rio Grande opposite Los Lunas and has 800 inhabitants. It is connected by long distance telephone with Albuquerque, twenty miles north. The town has a fine flour mill and five general merchandise stores. There is one Roman Cathohc church and one Methodist church building. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. 299 Conclusion. New Mexico is in the making. Tliough old in years, it is new in development. Its beauties and attractions are not seen from the railroad cars, nor can its resources be measured with a cursory glance. It is only those who have spent some time in traveling over its vast expanse, wiio have studied the possibilities of its latent wealth and who have stayed sufiiciently long to appreciate the charm of its blue sky and its perfect climate, and who have fallen under the spell of the romance and its unique beauty, who will declare that New Mexico is not only the peer, but that in many respects it is the superior of all other American commonwealths, be it in resources, opportunities, beauty or climate. THE SCENIC ROUTE ROAD NEAR SANTA FE. '■**""''*• mm 4i iiJBI k^ r:- ""^^^^ 1 HpF^ a oH^^r^HMfcii ■a -v^P^Qh 1'^ i tBVIj^^BB i mM - i^iS[«iiwlU: -" " ^^ H ,.Ar«^H It 1 -Ji^a m ■i ■ ■IK^MM^HIH INDUSTRIAL ESTABLISHMENTS AT ALBUQUERQUE. TABLE OF CONTENTS. SUBJECT PAQj, A Land of Opportunities 1 Statistics 2 Physical Features 25 Geology 27 River Systems 35 Irrigation 39 Agriculture 45 Dairying, Poultry and Apiary 65 Horticulture 57 Sugar Beets 77 Tobacco 81 Cotton 83 The Soil 83 How to Secure a Homestead 89 The Stock Industry 91 Timber 93 Mining 93 Manufacturing Industries 95 Railroads 97 Climate lOi Mineral and Hot Springs 119 Attractions for Tourists 1 25^ Counties, Cities and Towns I39 Bernalillo County I39 Chaves County I49 Colfax County 1 55 Dona Ana County 151 Eddy County 169 Grant County 1 73 Leonard Wood County 179 Lincoln County : 183 Luna County 191 McKinley County I97 Mora County 203 Otero County 209 Quay County 215 Rio Arriba County 219 Roosevelt County 223 Sandoval County 233 San Juan County 239 San Miguel County 243 Santa Fe County 251 Sierra County 265 Socorro County 269 Taos County 275 Union County 28 1 Valencia County 289 ON THE SCENIC ROUTE ROAD NEAR SANTA FE. OCT 10 m4