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A TR I P TO THE 
 
 YOSEMITE 
 VALLEY 
 
 BY 
 
 Victoria Howell 
 
 Letters giving the Author's Experience on a ten 
 days' trip 
 
 J. HOWELL AND COMPANY 
 
 PUBLISHERS 
 
 961 BROADWAY 
 
 OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA 
 
 190 8 
 
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 I wo Copies necttiYOM I) 
 
 JUN 4 lb?ub 
 
 Copyright 1908 
 J. HOWELL & COMPANY 
 
 ENGRAVED AND PRINTED BY 
 
 M. L. Rimes Ili-ustrating Company 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 
 
To the dear Friends 
 
 who would enjoy our thought of the Wonders 
 
 of the Yosemite, 
 
 we dedicate these letters 
 
 It is a feeble portrayal of Nature's master-work 
 in the heart of the Sierras 
 
 Tongue and pen fail in the attempt to express 
 
 the feelings which the sublime 
 
 scenes inspire 
 
 With gratitude and Thankfulness I am 
 
 lovingly 
 
 VICTORIJt HOWELL 
 
 \ 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 E are apt to class the Yosemite 
 Valley among other famous wonders 
 of the world, to be visited only under 
 great difficulties or with enormous 
 expense. Either or both reasons 
 make the home-loving people, with 
 moderate incomes, put off among 
 the impossibilities a trip which, at the present 
 time, is neither difficult nor expensive. 
 
 When I came to California, nineteen years 
 ago, one of the first things I hoped to do was 
 to visit the Yosemite Valley, but as months and 
 years went by the possibility seemed to grow 
 farther from me, also the mountains, and my 
 hope of ever taking the trip became misty and 
 vague, until one day the thought was presented 
 to my husband and myself that we " ought 
 to go," and "now is the time." We 
 decided to consult a ticket agent, whom we 
 knew, about it. The result was we purchased 
 the popular fifty-dollar round-trip ticket, which 
 the agent recommended for a ten days' trip, 
 
 We started on the evening train from Oak- 
 land, Friday, June 23, 1905. 
 
A perfect imitation of a bridal veil " 
 Page 11 
 
THE STAGE RIDE 
 
 Wawona Hotel (en route), 
 
 Saturday night, June 24, 1905. 
 
 Dear Ones at Home: — 
 
 ID you ever wish to be in two 
 different places at the same time? 
 Well, that is the way we feel to- 
 night. We would like to be at home 
 with you and at the same time we 
 cannot help feeling glad that we are 
 here. Last night we had a berth in 
 a lovely new Pullman car and Morpheus took 
 possession of us as we rode away. We arrived 
 at Raymond Hotel about 6:30 this morning, 
 where an appetizing breakfast of fruit, fried 
 chicken, eggs, biscuit, Johnny cake, French 
 fried potatoes and coffee, awaited us and was 
 nicely served. 
 
 By 7:30 we were off in four-seated stage 
 coaches, each with two span of horses. There 
 were livery stations about every two hours 
 apart, where the horses were exchanged for 
 fresh ones. At noon we all stopped at a large 
 country hotel, named "Ahwahnee," for a very 
 nice lunch, served temptingly in a large dining- 
 hall, where a half dozen or more tables were 
 spread with fresh white linen; a beautiful 
 bouquet of roses was in the center of each. A 
 long, wide porch 'neath sheltering trees and 
 vines, with rocking-chairs and benches, offered 
 comfort and cheer. That hour's rest and re- 
 freshment is one of the welcome and never-to- 
 be-forgotten features of the stage ride to the 
 Yosemite Valley. 
 
 We have traveled forty-four miles of up hill 
 and down, in crossing two ridges of mountains; 
 the highest point, 5,210 feet, being reached at 
 4 o'clock this afternoon; and I wish you could 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 have the view of the country and the tall pine 
 trees that we have seen to-day. 
 
 It is very pleasant here in the verdant valley 
 of the South Fork of the Merced River, sur- 
 rounded by mountains and forests, cool, soft 
 atmosphere and bright blue sky overhead. 
 "Wawona" is the Indian name for "Big Tree," 
 and is quite a resort, people sta3ring from one 
 week or one month to three weeks or three 
 months, or, like us, only for a night or two on 
 their way to and from the Valley; so that there 
 are several dozen people here every night dur- 
 ing the season. Five stages, including our own, 
 arrived to-night from Raymond, with from five 
 to twelve persons in each, besides those who 
 came in yesterday and have been to-day on a 
 picnic to the Mariposa Big Trees, and those who 
 are returning home from the Valley; so there 
 is plenty of bustle and music, comparing and 
 exchanging of notes. We have rooms in a 
 cottage, clean and comfortable. Many people 
 prefer sleeping in tents, so they were all taken, 
 but we are well satisfied. The candles are 
 a novelty with their white China holders. 
 
 We enjoyed our dinner and afterward 
 walked across the way to the studio of the 
 celebrated Thomas Hill, where we saw many 
 fine paintings, mostly of the Yosemite. I forgot 
 to mention that at Raymond Hotel an agent 
 will check anything you wish to leave until 
 you return from the Valley, and he also fur- 
 nishes hats and dusters. I left my hat and 
 paid 75 cents for a Mexican hat, and father 
 paid 25 cents for one. I put my veil around 
 mine, and you ought to have seen the crowd of 
 us — ^we looked like robbers. I will enclose a 
 Mariposa lily, which I took from the bouquet 
 on the table to-night. Mariposa means "butter- 
 fly." Goodnight. 
 
 FROM cTWOTHER. 
 
IN MARIPOSA GROVE 
 
 Wawona Hotel, Mariposa Co., Gal. 
 
 Morning of June 25, 1905. 
 
 Dear Ones All: — 
 
 E had a fine breakfast and are to 
 start at 9 o'clock for the Big Trees, 
 a ride of eight miles. The night was 
 cool and I slept under all that was on 
 the bed — a heavy white spread and 
 two pairs of warm blankets. The 
 air is cool and inspiring and the 
 water soft, pure and cold ; the sun shines bright 
 and warm. My knit shawl is just what I need. 
 Love and greeting to all. . . . Evening of 
 same day: — We had a pleasant day and have 
 seen the Big Trees. It was another ride up the 
 mountain side midst a forest of pine, cedar, fir 
 and occasional giant yellow and sugar pine 
 trees, besides smaller growth and shrubs of 
 diflferent varieties. The forest was not so 
 dense but that we had favorable glimpses of 
 the surrounding valley and opposite cliffs. 
 There are over 600 Sequoias scattered and 
 grouped over the side and top of the mountain, 
 covering, I should think, 500 acres of ground 
 and ranging in height from 200 to 300 feet, 
 and from thirty to one hundred and thirty feet 
 in circumference. My neck ached from looking 
 upward to find the tops of the trees. It was 
 truly a wonderful sight — a privilege to be 
 grateful for. 
 
 Centrally located in the midst of the grove 
 of giants is a well-built log cabin with a long, 
 wide veranda and a large old-fashioned fire- 
 place, over which fire at lunch time our 
 coffee was made. There are also arranged upon 
 tables pictures of the scenic wonders, curios 
 and so forth. 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 Each driver spread a picnic lunch for his 
 load of hungry people in a log dining pavilion 
 having tables and benches, which are there for 
 that purpose; our luncheon we all heartily en- 
 joyed. In front of the cabin, a few yards 
 away, there is a well, five or six feet deep and 
 three feet across, neatly walled up with stone, 
 with a low fence around it, full of cool, soft, 
 delicious water, the most refreshing we ever 
 drank. We named it "Jacob's Well." One 
 of the fallen "Giants," near the cabin, has a 
 flight of stairs built up on one side of it, for the 
 benefit of visitors. I climbed the stairs and sat 
 for a little while on the tree near the base, 
 there obtaining, I think, the finest view of the 
 forest that could be had on the grounds. There 
 is a scarlet plant growing in places under the 
 large trees called the "snow plant." It comes 
 up through the snow in the spring time and is 
 very beautiful even now ahooting up through 
 the pine needles. 
 
 After about three hours of sight-seeing in 
 and around this wonderful spot, it was with 
 regret that we took our seats in the stage to 
 return. We started out by a different road 
 from the one by which we entered the forest, 
 leading through the grove and winding up the 
 mountain. A photographer took our pictures 
 while we stopped in the tree called "Wawona," 
 and father paid for one, which will be sent 
 home as soon as finished. You will see that 
 father, with his long beard, is the most promi- 
 nent figure in the photograph. We rode on 
 upward until we reached the highest point, 
 "Wawona Point," an elevation of 7,140 feet; 
 this is over 3,000 feet from the valley below, 
 where the green meadow land slightly tinged 
 with olive and bordered with a heavy forest 
 growth, shone in the sunlight from such a 
 height like a brilliant gem in a dark setting. 
 A snowy peak clearly seen across the valley 
 
 8 
 
IN MARIPOSA GROVE 
 
 at the right cooled the atmosphere and was 
 welcome, for the sun was quite warm. The 
 homeward ride around the mountain downward 
 was very pleasant and quickly made. Many 
 lovely flowers grow wild in the forests, but I 
 have not time just now to write about them. 
 We start to-morrow morning at 6:30 on the 
 remaining twenty-eight miles between us and 
 our destination. This day has seemed as sacred, 
 I am sure, in the way that we have spent it, as 
 it would have been in our little church at home. 
 So, a good night to you all. 
 
 MOTHER. 
 
ENTERING THE VALLEY 
 
 Wawona. 
 
 Monday morning, 6:30, June 26, 1905. 
 
 Dear Loraine and All : — 
 
 RAP on our door at five and a 
 pitcher of hot water, think of it! 
 and the air like snow. The sun risen 
 brig:htly over the mountains, the 
 walks white with frost; breakfast of 
 mush, hot cakes and coffee; a big 
 wood fire in the grate, and now a 
 
 call: "All aboard for the Yosemite." Good-by 
 
 till later. 
 
 Camp Yosemite, foot of cliff near the Yosemite 
 Palls. The same day, 1 :45 P. M. :— 
 
 Here we are at our journey's end in a most 
 ideal camping place. We have just finished 
 luncheon in the long ell-shaped dining pavilion, 
 with tent roof, long wooden tables and willow- 
 seated chairs. The service is good. A bouquet 
 of wild azalias, white and cream in color, and 
 very beautiful, was on each table. I will en- 
 close one which a young lady has taken and 
 fastened upon my waist; they are very fra- 
 grant. A lovely pebbly stream of water, such 
 as the children would enjoy wading in, runs 
 along by the dining-hall midst grass and thickly 
 growing shrubs. 
 
 The trip from Wawona here was mountainous 
 and grand ; a tremendous forest growth covered 
 the mountains and canyons. There were pine, 
 fir, cedar, oak and other kinds of trees, and 
 many varieties of shrubs and wild flowers — 
 the blue and white lupine, the wild iris, blue- 
 bells, blue and white wild lilac, a common red 
 flower called "paint brush," and a small shrub 
 (about the size of a blueberry bush), with a 
 white blossom, resembling the strawberry bloa- 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 som, commonly called "bear clover," that car- 
 pets the mountains in some places like grass. 
 
 As we neared the Valley every turn around 
 the mountain was watched with eager expect- 
 ancy for a familiar scene previously obtained 
 from photographs; and at last, when the bold 
 side of El Capitan burst into sight, we could 
 scarcely await the time and drive still needed 
 to bring us closer to its walls. But soon, and 
 with rapid approach on its downward grade, 
 we reached the place called "Artist's Point," 
 where that beautiful picture of the Valley is 
 so often taken, Bridal Veil Falls at the right, 
 El Capitan at the left and the Valley with the 
 river and the distant cliffs between. Here our 
 joy and expectations were filled to o'erflowing, 
 and a sense of wonder and awe stole over us. 
 We were loth to leave the sublime scene, even 
 to go forward to a nearer view. However, a 
 few turns more brought us to the floor of our 
 beloved Yosemite. 
 
 Inspiration Point stood before us in majestic 
 height as if on guard against intruders. Soon 
 we were directly at the foot of Bridal Veil 
 Palls. While the driver watered the horses we 
 stood on the little bridge and watched the dash 
 and spray in the sunlight of that 940 feet — a 
 perfect imitation of a bridal veil. But the fall 
 was continuous in fresh sweeps of spray ex- 
 actly as though it were, that instant, falling 
 backward from the crown of the head down 
 over the bridal gown. I think I have never 
 before gazed upon so beautiful a sight. 
 
 As we rode on we saw near El Capitan a tiny 
 rivulet and spray falling from a more dizzy 
 height of rock. It is called "The Ribbon." 
 Meandering along (we still had three miles to 
 go) by the side of the lovely Merced River, 
 under the shadow of oak, fir and pine, we were 
 attracted by the Cathedral Rocks and Spires, 
 
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ENTERING "THE VALLEY" 
 
 The Three Brothers, Sentinel Bock, and at last 
 by the celebrated Yosemite Falls, which, in a 
 way, are more grand, if not as lovely as the 
 Bridal Veil Falls. Yosemite is the Indian name 
 for "Large Grizzly Bear," and the name is cer- 
 tainly applicable to these falls. The upper fall 
 of 1,600 feet exceeds in volume, for such a dis- 
 tance, any other known fall; the middle fall 
 and cascades have a height of 534 feet, and the 
 lower fall 500, making altogether over 2,600 
 feet. While marveling at the beauty and magni- 
 ficence of the scene we approached gradually 
 nearer until (within half a mile of the Falls, 
 and directly in front of them) we stood before 
 the Sentinel Hotel, a large comfortable looking 
 place on the Merced River, and the central 
 figure of a short street lined with cottages, 
 studios, store and post-office. 
 
 After unloading passengers and baggage we 
 rode on to Yosemite Camp, near the Falls, and 
 within the distinct roar of the cataract. Now 
 we are fairly ensconced, ready (like every one 
 else here) to do that which will bring or accom- 
 plish the most in a short period of time — each 
 individual being free to follow his own inclina- 
 tions and tastes in the choice of the many at- 
 tractions at hand. We like it here very much; 
 the tents are arranged for one or two persons 
 as desired and are quite comfortable. There is 
 a porter to wait on the guests and maids to 
 keep the tents in order, besides the general 
 manager and her assistants, who look after the 
 grounds and the special comfort and pleasure 
 of the guests. The mail leaves here at 6 P. M., 
 and leaves the hotel in the morning. There is 
 a telephone system connecting all points in the 
 Valley with Glacier Hotel and Wawona Hotel; 
 the latter place is connected with Raymond by 
 telegraph, so that communication can be had 
 with the outside world at any time. 
 
 Good night. mother. 
 
 12 
 
LOST ARROW TRAIL 
 
 Tuesday evening, June 27, 1905. 
 Dear Mary, Edith, Loraine and All : — 
 
 NOTHER day has passed; more 
 wonders and beauties are added to 
 our store of Yosemite memories. 
 Last night after dinner we started 
 by "The Lost Arrow Trail" to take 
 the ten-minute walk to the foot of 
 the Yosemite Falls. The foot-path 
 guided us through the trees and rocks, then 
 across a stream on a bridge, made by felling a 
 large yellow pine tree across it; a railing was 
 fastened along one side and by shaving off the 
 top sufficient to flatten it a substantial bridge 
 was formed. This sort of bridge spanned the 
 five different streams (ten to fifteen feet in 
 width), which were to be crossed on this trail. 
 The streams all begin at the Falls, and, after 
 winding their crooked way for a short distance, 
 come together again at different points, form- 
 ing the Yosemite River which, farther along, 
 flows into the Merced River. 
 
 We passed through a beautiful wood emerg- 
 ing into an open drive-way near the Falls, at 
 a point where tourists come in carriages to ob- 
 tain the finest view possible of the Yosemite 
 Falls. Following a narrow, well-beaten path, 
 up and over a few rocks, we stood right in the 
 spray and thundering noise of the tumbling 
 waters which fell upon the rocks beneath as if 
 in frenzied attempt to leap away from the cliff 
 which had caused them such a mighty fall. 
 It is impossible to describe the varying moods 
 of the stream from the time it starts over the 
 edge of the cliff until it reaches the rocks 
 below. Sometimes it appears to be all spray; 
 again it comes down something in the same 
 way that a sky rocket sends out a shower of 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 bright white drops. Entranced, we lingered, 
 until the darkening shades warned us to return. 
 
 This morning father arose early, and while I 
 was enjoying a nice nap he walked half a mile 
 over to the hotel, and from there a mile and 
 a half to the other camp — Camp Curry. He 
 returned in time for breakfast, and suggested 
 we take a lunch and spend the day at "Happy 
 Isles, ' ' which is only half a mile beyond Camp 
 Curry. This we did, starting about 10 o'clock. 
 For a little way we enjoyed the walk under the 
 tall trees on the bank of the river, until it 
 wound off and away through the meadows. We 
 then followed a trail near the road side among 
 the rocks, bushes and young trees along the 
 cliff underneath * ' Glacier Point. ' ' About noon, 
 after a leisurely walk, we arrived at the Islands, 
 which are so happily situated at the mouth of 
 the gorge and canyon of the Merced River, 
 where, at this point, it forms the turbulent, 
 foaming rapids, encircling the two beautiful 
 wooded islands, 60 by 200 feet in extent. Pic- 
 turesque bridges and paths enhance the beauty 
 of this lovely spot, aiding the visitor in his 
 enjoyment. 
 
 We ate our luncheon while seated upon the 
 rocks near the water and then crossed over 
 a bridge to the path along by the rapids, until 
 we found the regular trail leading a mile and 
 a half farther up the canyon to "Vernal Falls 
 and Rapids." These falls are 80 feet across 
 and 350 feet high, the rocks below forming, for 
 several himdred feet, tremendous rapids. The 
 day was too far spent to stay as long as we 
 would have liked, but we declared our inten- 
 tion of leaving the Valley by this trail to 
 "Glacier Point." And this decision helped 
 us to be vidlling to return at once to our camp, 
 where we arrived at 6 P. M., in time for din- 
 ner. It is now bed time. Lovingly, 
 
 MOTHER. 
 14 
 
Redected in the clear, still water 
 Pa.^e 15 
 
SUNRISE IN "MIRROR LAKE" 
 
 Camp Yosemite. 
 
 Wednesday afternoon, June 28, 1905. 
 
 Dear Ones All: — 
 
 E are very happy here, and this 
 afternoon are enjoying camp life in 
 hammocks and adjustable chairs 
 under large spreading oaks. The 
 center of the camp, where every- 
 body congregates, must cover a full 
 acre or more. A little stream, five 
 feet wide, separates these grounds 
 from the dining-hall, kitchen, store and bath 
 houses; several small rustic bridges crossing 
 it look very picturesque. The water in the 
 creek is clear, soft and cold. There are over 
 one hundred tents around about under the 
 trees. Candles are used at night in the tents, 
 but throughout the grounds there are large, 
 square, coal-oil lanterns set upon shelves that 
 are fastened to the trees. Folding chairs and 
 folding spring- wire beds are used; also granite 
 wash bowls and pitchers. The floors are wood, 
 carpeted with heavy brown duck. Every one 
 seems happy and contented. 
 
 This morning we ate breakfast at 5:30 in 
 order to reach "Mirror Lake" (three miles dis- 
 tant), in time to see the sun rise in the mir- 
 rored depths below. Sky, trees and cliffs are 
 reflected in the clear, still water, more wonder- 
 fully than can possibly be pictured by photo- 
 graph. The lake is so sheltered 'neath "Half 
 Dome Mountain" that the sun must climb high 
 in the heavens and rise over the top of the cliff 
 before it can shine on the water; and as it 
 nears the edge of the cliff the reflection of the 
 sky in the water as it reddens and lightens and 
 then slowly reveals the full orb is a revelation 
 of wonder and delight. We spent two hours 
 
 15 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 walking back and forth along by the edge of 
 the lake watching the various reflections of 
 landscape, and then started homeward. 
 
 When about half the distance on our way we 
 saw two signs, one pointing toward the left to 
 "Mineral Spring" and the other toward the 
 right to "Indian's Cave." At the spring we 
 found a keg sunken in the ground full of clear, 
 cold mineral water, which flowed continuously, 
 and had a good drink; also enjoyed the shade 
 of some large yellow pines and oaks. We found 
 the cave to be quite large and roomy, formed 
 by a large boulder resting at the sides upon 
 several smaller ones, and used at one time for 
 a shelter by the Indians. When nearing our 
 camp we turned to the right into a foot- 
 path by the cliffs, which led to the cabin 
 and tent of some Indians. Here we stopped 
 for a few moments and talked with them. One 
 of the squaws was ironing some clothes which 
 she had taken to wash; she stood under a tree 
 near a small camp fire, where her irons were 
 heating. She comes to our camp every day to 
 get the food left from the tables. Her aged 
 gray-haired mother was squatted upon the 
 ground by the open tent weaving a basket. 
 There were four "Chuck 'ah" (meaning store 
 houses) about twenty feet away for nuts and 
 acorns. They are very curiously built, thatched 
 with pine branches (points downward to keep 
 out mice and squirrels) . We gave the old squaw 
 a quarter and then continued our walk by the 
 foot-path towards home, where we arrived soon 
 after noon, and — well — it made a six-mile 
 walk and we think that is pretty good for 
 to-day. 
 
 MOTHER. 
 
 le 
 
DOWN THE RIVER 
 
 Camp Yosemite. 
 
 Thursday evening, June 29, 1905. 
 
 Dear Loraine and All: — 
 
 UR stay here in the Yosemite is 
 fast speeding away. This morning 
 we started out at seven (with our 
 luncheon) for a walk down the Valley 
 toward Bridal Veil Falls. We went 
 slowly along, stopping now and then 
 under the trees to enjoy our sur- 
 roundings — the stream, the meadows, the cliffs, 
 and the falls in the distance. We saw many 
 beautiful camping places, and built airy 
 castles of future visits to this enchanted val- 
 ley. In one place we found a pebbly beach 
 'neath the shade of evergreens and enjoyed a 
 cool drink of water. Across, on the opposite 
 side of the river among the trees, we saw in 
 pasture some fine looking donkeys, or burros, 
 both old and young. People ride them in 
 climbing the mountain trails. It was on the 
 river bank near this point that we located 
 several places, where photographers obtain 
 the views we all admire, of the peerless El 
 Capitan, towering high above the shimmering 
 surface of the river at its base and reflected 
 in the limpid water, which here is so bounded 
 as to have the appearance of a lake. Near 
 here, also, we were able to approach and appre- 
 ciate somewhat, the Cathedral Rocks, and to 
 feel the sanctity inspired by their lofty pinna- 
 cles and massive walls. 
 
 By noon we had arrived at the bridge which 
 crosses the Merced River. Here a gradual rocky 
 descent of 500 feet in the river forms the beau- 
 tiful cascades, one of the many wonders of the 
 Valley. About five minutes later we reached 
 
 17 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 the "Bridal Veil Falls," and on the rocks, near 
 the rapids, ate our lunch. A beautiful mottled 
 gray squirrel scampered in and out of the rocks 
 about us watching and begging for something 
 to eat; he would sit up on a boulder in front 
 of us and nibble away the bits we gave him as 
 familiarly as though we were old acquaint- 
 ances; he was as fine a one of his kind as we 
 have ever seen. 
 
 The boulders and rocks at the foot of the 
 falls separate the rush of waters into three 
 streams, and from the bridges, which cross 
 these rapids, visitors have three fine points of 
 view. We climbed up over the rocks by a 
 foot-path nearly to the foot of the falls, where 
 the spray was like rain, and where, with the 
 sun shining upon the mist, a perfect double 
 rainbow was formed, very beautiful to look at. 
 The falls seemed so ethereal and so easily af- 
 fected by the slightest breeze that they ap- 
 peared like vapor. The water would sometimes 
 fall directly down in a light, airy sweeping 
 train; and then a stir of wind would send the 
 entire volume off to one side — the mist and 
 spray spreading and floating over the side of 
 the cliff and rocks like a cloud. Again a slight 
 motion would send it entirely to the other side, 
 but with such grace and beauty that we were 
 lost in wonder at the magnificence and loveli- 
 ness. We were much impressed with the height 
 of the falls, and consequent fall of spray. 
 
 At 4 P. M. we turned our steps reluctantly 
 homeward, crossing the bridge and returning by 
 the road on the other side of the river. It was 
 four miles each way. To the left El Capitan 
 loomed high and white and imposing. About 
 half way home father saw a rattlesnake by 
 the road side and struck it near the head with 
 his staff. It had eight rattles, and was two 
 and a half feet long. Tying a slip-knot over 
 
 18 
 
"Tin 
 
 nils in the distance" 
 Paue 17 
 
 -^ 
 
 'V^f'ittlUt 
 
 Vf .^a//^ 
 
DOWN THE RIVER 
 
 its head, he trailed it home. It made quite a 
 sensation in our camp, as tiiey are very rarely 
 seen in the Valley. The porter preserved the 
 skin for him and said it was a fine one. Our 
 road led along by the cliffs, as we neared the 
 Yosemite Falls, and we entered the camp by 
 the ' ' Lost Arrow Trail. ' ' 
 
 We are thinking of starting Saturday morn- 
 ing up the long trail to "Glacier Point" and 
 going out of the Valley from there. They say 
 the sunrise and sunset from that point is very 
 grand. Last evening after dinner we visited 
 the cemetery, which is only a short distance 
 from here, and which contains about two 
 dozen graves. We noticed particularly the 
 place prepared by Mr. Galen Clark, the dis- 
 coverer of the "Mariposa Big Tree Grove." It 
 is a fenced enclosure about fifteen feet square, 
 with a grave in the center and a Sequoia, ten or 
 twelve feet high, growing in each comer. A 
 granite rock with one side polished had his 
 name marked on it. He is now 91 years of age, 
 and is a pioneer of the Valley; he has charge 
 of this camp and is always around on the 
 grounds, ready to entertain the guests or give 
 any information. Mr. Clark has written a little 
 book describing the Indians of the Valley and 
 their legends of the mysteries of the Yosemite. 
 We bought one of them (50 cents), in which, 
 by our request, he wrote with pen and ink his 
 name and date of birth. In this book you will 
 see a picture of the ' ' Chuck 'ah, ' ' which I spoke 
 of in my last letter to you. 
 
 We trust all is well with you. Will probably 
 be at Wawona Sunday night, and Monday even- 
 ing take the train for home. With love, 
 
 MOTHER. 
 
 19 
 

 Til 
 
 AMONG THE STUDIOS 
 
 Camp Yosemite. 
 
 Friday evening, June 30, 1905. 
 
 Dear Ones All : — 
 
 HIS day has been, in a way, event- 
 ful. We slept soundly in our tent 
 until 7 o'clock. After breakfast 
 walked half a mile over to the 
 studios to examine pictures and 
 curios. Our appreciation of the 
 artist's thought and attempts to por- 
 tray the wonders of the Yosemite is much more 
 satisfactory for having gazed at the scenes and 
 felt somewhat the inspiration which must come 
 to every beholder of this mighty revelation of 
 sublimity and grandeur. We made a few pur- 
 chases of pictures and curios and were so in- 
 terested that luncheon time came very unex- 
 pectedly, hurrying us back to camp, although 
 we could not refrain from lingering a moment 
 longer at the bridge near the hotel, where the 
 river is especially beautiful and placid. 
 
 After luncheon we started out on the enchant- 
 ing little pathway (with the mystic legendary 
 name "Lost Arrow Trail") to make the Falls 
 a farewell visit, as this is to be our last evening 
 in the Valley. Following the trail through 
 the lovely wood, every little way crossing a 
 shallow pebbly stream, we v/ere soon out to 
 the carriage drive-way, and went on up the 
 trail nearly to the foot of the Falls into the 
 mist which sweeps over the rocks and boulders 
 for many feet, like a gust of fine rain blown 
 about by the wind. The path circled here so 
 that we quickly came out of the mist and stood 
 upon a rock where, in the presence of that stu- 
 pendous magnitude, we were held in mingled 
 fascination and awe. The impressions of that 
 hour can never be forgotten. With solemn 
 hearts, regretfully we turned from this attract- 
 ive spot. Our arrangements have been made 
 for leaving very early in the morning. 
 
 MOTHER. 
 
 80 
 
flf'-!i 
 
 
Towering' high above the shimmerin.i 
 stirface of the river" Page 17 
 
 C)/ Ocr/ie'Azff. 
 
THE LONG TRAIL 
 
 Glacier Hotel. 
 
 Saturday evening, July 1, 1905. 
 Dear Loraine, Edith and Mary : — 
 
 HIS has been perhaps the greatest 
 of all our days in the Yosemite. We 
 walked the long trail from our camp 
 in the Valley to Glacier Point, a dis- 
 tance of fifteen miles. On rising at 
 four this morning v/e made hurried 
 preparation to leave our beautiful 
 camp, with all its delightful attractions. The 
 air was fresh, soft and cool; the birds were 
 singing their morning greetings, and the roar 
 of the Falls reminded us of the distant locomo- 
 tive thundering its warning approach. Mr. 
 Galen Clark was the only one astir as we left 
 the grounds. We bade him good-by, and were 
 soon well on our way, turning often to gain a 
 last view of the Yosemite Falls. A short walk 
 brought us to the Merced River, with its deep, 
 broad, full sweep, smooth surface, grassy 
 banks and overhanging branches; the river, 
 which to-day we were to follow back to its 
 upper falls, ere we left its cool refreshing 
 waters. 
 
 The Royal Arches, North Dome and Washing- 
 ton Column stood out in the clear morning 
 light ; and walking amidst a profusion of sweet- 
 scented plants, flowering shrubs and beautiful 
 trees of endless variety, surrounded and pro- 
 tected by the towering cliffs, we felt as though 
 we were in the "King's Garden." Looking up 
 to Glacier Point, over 3,000 feet above, the Gov- 
 ernment flag-staff appeared to be only a few 
 inches in height, and we could scarcely believe 
 that by following the trail, upon which we 
 were about to enter, we should ever arrive at 
 the lofty summit above us. However, our faith 
 in the directions given and the assured results 
 ai 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 precluded a doubt and we entered the trail up 
 the mountain-side, lightly and joyfully, with 
 staff, package and luncheon, all of which we 
 would need ere we reached our baggage, which 
 was to be sent out of the Valley by the stage 
 to Wawona Hotel. 
 
 By 6:30 A. M. we were at Vernal Falls and 
 ready for luncheon, which we ate near "Lady 
 Franklin Rock." After a cool drink from the 
 side of the river which dashed and foamed in 
 the turbulent rapids we started for another 
 climb up the zigzag trail ; it led back and forth 
 again and again a dozen or more times, some 
 of the turns long and some short ; at this point 
 the mountain side was well covered with trees 
 and undergrowth and did not seem as steep 
 as it actually was. Up, up we toiled, stopping 
 every turn or two to sit upon a rock and look 
 around, for our ambition was not merely to 
 gain a particular destination, but to enjoy 
 everything about us as we went along. A lady, 
 mounted upon a gentle white steed, passed us 
 by, in company with a party of others who were 
 riding on burros. At last we reached the neces- 
 sary height to make the turn round to the 
 other side of the moimtain, although we were 
 still several hundred feet below the top. And 
 yet, to look off into the canyon, hundreds of 
 feet downward, the sight was almost appalling, 
 although grand, beyond description. After 
 winding around a little way the path led down- 
 ward, where we soon, with rapid step, came into 
 full view of the once hidden Nevada Palls. 
 From this point we found the solution of the 
 mystery; a new territory, with heights and 
 possibilities beyond opened out before us, and 
 Dame Nature, seemingly so complex, became 
 simplified again. 
 
 The distance between the Vernal and Nevada 
 Falls is fully three-quarters of a mile, and 
 
 32 
 
THE LONG TRAIL 
 
 forms a very interesting shelf of mountain 
 scenery, as well as furnishing a pathway, not 
 only for a very large river flowing from the 
 vast water shed of the higher Sierras, but also 
 a pathway for man, whereby he may within a 
 comparatively short distance reach from the 
 Valley to the higher lands above. The channel 
 formed for the course of the river between 
 these two falls is very peculiar. At the 
 foot of the Nevada the rocky river bed, with 
 quick descent and many boulders, creates 
 several rods of cascades and rapids; then for 
 perhaps 200 feet, at an incline of fifty feet, the 
 granite rock is almost as smooth as the slating 
 for roofs; the river running over it at the 
 rate of eighty miles an hour, with a depth of 
 but six to ten inches, and a width of not less 
 than thirty to eighty feet, is a solid sheet of 
 water which, glistening in the sunlight, gives 
 the appearance of silver; hence its name, 
 "Silver Apron." 
 
 This immense sheet of water drops suddenly 
 into a pool (named "Emerald Pool") that is 
 sufficiently large and of such form that imme- 
 diately the water becomes still, smooth and 
 placid; and in the change takes on the most 
 beautiful hues of emerald green. Here again 
 the river emerges, flowing in a natural ordinary 
 stream for 200 feet, until it reaches the Vernal 
 Falls (Cataract of Diamonds), where the 
 volume of water dashes downward 350 feet; 
 and from the railing the appearance is that of 
 a perpetual fall of vast quantities of large, bril- 
 liant diamonds, sparkling amid the sunbeams 
 and spray, so alluring and yet so impossible to 
 reach. The rock formation on one side at the 
 head of these falls is laid up like a parapet, to 
 hem in, as it were, the outlet for this vast trea- 
 sure stream of wealth. A large table-rock is 
 here spread out as if for the use of spectators 
 
 23 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 to stand upon and gaze in wonder at the 
 grandeur. The tall fir, pine and other growths 
 skirted the banks beside the Silver Apron and 
 Pool, and a path winding along through this 
 wood made a sylvan retreat, where, upon a 
 rock, we sat in the cool shade and ate from our 
 luncheon, for it was now nearly 10 o'clock. 
 
 After lingering a while to enjoy the lovely 
 scene (where, indeed, we longed to spend the 
 entire day), we returned regretfully to the 
 traU, whither many others mostly with horses 
 or donkeys, had preceded us. First, across the 
 rustic bridge over the rapids, and then on and 
 around a little way and up on to a glacier pla- 
 teau and meadow, where were two or three de- 
 serted cabins. Here we turned aside into a 
 narrow path leading downward until we stood 
 close to the river's edge, and nearer to the foot 
 of the Nevada Falls, where the water is very 
 turbulent. Retracing again back to the trail, 
 we drank from a brook near by, and waited for 
 a pack-train of donkeys to pass on their way 
 down from the Upper Merced River, where (we 
 were told by one of the workmen), a bridge 
 and roadway had been built at Merced Lake 
 some twenty-five miles away. 
 
 Our trail from this point became quite steep, 
 with turns at short distances, up the wooded 
 mountain side, and within a few yards and in 
 full view of the falls. It was very picturesque. 
 It seemed wonderful how those immense pine 
 trees, growing there on the rocks near the top 
 of the mountain, could send out roots of suffi- 
 cient size, depth and breadth to support the 
 great trunk, extending upward 150 feet. 
 
 We ascended quite rapidly and yet it was 
 noon by the time we reached the upper plateau, 
 near the entrance to the Little Ycsemite Valley. 
 The trail to Cloud's Rest branches off to the 
 left, and to the right we could see at a distance 
 
 24 
 

 J 
 
 
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 4 
 
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 It 
 
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 "The Merced river with its deep, broad, 
 full sweep" Page 21 
 
 Aitrt/i l^cme. 
 
THE LONG TRAIL 
 
 across another mountain top, Glacier Hotel, for 
 which we were bound. Here we sat down upon 
 the rocks in the cool inviting shade, with the 
 water rushing along at our feet. Opening our 
 package we finished our supply of luncheon and 
 drank of the soft, delicious water. It was only 
 a walk of a few yards across a glacier of rock, 
 and down a dozen steps which were cut into the 
 rocks, in order to reach the railing at the top 
 of the mighty Nevada Falls — its torrents of 
 water tearing and whirling downward 700 feet 
 into its rocky caldron. We heard an exclama- 
 tion (very expressive and appropriate) by an 
 English tourist who had just turned away: "It 
 isatvful! It is diabolical!" After gazing for 
 a few moments into the awful depths we went 
 back over the plateau to where the rapidly flow- 
 ing river narrowed suddenly into a rocky chasm 
 made rough and broken by huge boulders; 
 standing upon the bridge, just over the head 
 of the chasm, we shuddered at the awfulness of 
 the mighty power so near to us and so terrible 
 to behold. 
 
 But we could not linger, for a long moun- 
 tainous pass was yet before us, ere we should 
 reach the end of our day's journey. We climbed 
 the zigzag trail up a steep mountain side, then 
 walked around to the other side of the moun- 
 tain and down again to the canyon of the Illil- 
 louette River, which forms here the beautiful 
 Illillouette Falls, 600 feet high. Crossing the 
 bridge we began another steep ascent which 
 soon woimd around to a place where a path 
 branched off leading to a particular point, from 
 which these falls are in full view and seem 
 almost as lovely as the Vernal Falls, though 
 not so wide. Again we started onward and 
 upward upon a long toilsome trail with many 
 a rest upon some rock and a drink at some 
 brooklet, the trees and shrubs all about us and 
 
 25 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 in full view of the canyon and peaks to the 
 east of us. 
 
 Passing through a thicket of the shrub Man- 
 zanita (the Spanish name for "Little Apple"), 
 which grows plentifully upon the mountains, we 
 picked some of the berries and ate them and 
 found the flavor to be like the apple. Gradually 
 our trail led toward the Point, until about 6 :30, 
 when we arrived at the hotel in time for a 
 good dinner. A porch extends around three 
 sides of the hotel and is twenty feet wide on 
 the east side, overlooking the Vernal and 
 Nevada Falls, Half Dome and several other 
 peaks of the higher Sierras. From here the 
 view is awe-inspiring and grand beyond lan- 
 guage to express. And thus ends a day to us 
 of wonderful scenery, surpassing in extent, if 
 not in grandeur, every other day since our 
 entrance to the Yosemite Valley. 
 
 Your loving 
 
 MOTHERj. 
 
 W 
 
 36 
 
AMONG THE SIERRAS 
 
 Glacier Hotel. 
 
 At Noon, July 2, 1905. 
 Dear Ones All: — 
 
 E awoke at 4:30 this morning to 
 see the first rays of sunlight upon 
 the snow-capped peaks in the dis- 
 tance; the rays spread gently over 
 the landscape until his Majesty, the 
 sun, slowly emerging from behind 
 Half Dome Mountain, chased away 
 the shadows from the falls and sleeping Val- 
 ley. After breakfast I joined acquaintances 
 of the day before, who also having walked up 
 from the Valley were starting upon the trail, 
 one and a half miles long, which leads to the 
 top of Sentinel Dome. Although the elevation 
 is nearly 1,000 feet above Glacier Point, the 
 view of the Valley and surrounding country 
 is well worth the climb. 
 
 Upon our return I found that father had been 
 out on the overhanging rock, which you have 
 all seen in photographs, and was ready to walk 
 out there with me, if I wished to go. But it is 
 safer and kindlier to follow the pathway to 
 the edge of the precipice at the place where the 
 Government has put a strong iron railing. Here 
 one can look down 3,250 feet and see the floor 
 of the Valley laid out like a map. The river 
 appears like a ribbon a few inches wide, and 
 an orchard of well grown trees resembles a 
 strawberry bed. The awful height gives an 
 overpowering sense, causing one to shrink back, 
 although he knows the railing is secure and 
 his safety assured. 
 
 Half Dome, across the Valley, rises nearly 
 2,000 feet higher than Glacier Point, and from 
 its lofty summit looks almost perpendicularly 
 down into Mirror Lake, which appears from 
 this point scarcely the size of a tea saucer. One 
 must needs be here to appreciate the magnitude 
 of this wonderful place. The time for our de- 
 parture is nearing and I will say good-by. 
 
 MOTHER. 
 27 
 
:••=»■* 
 
"S|)arkliny amid the sunbeams and spray 
 Page 23 
 
 iernat ./altM 
 
BACK TO WAWONA 
 
 Wawona (en route homeward). 
 
 Sunday Eveningf, July 2, 1905. 
 
 Dear Ones at Home: — 
 
 ERE we are at Wawona again, after 
 a long and most delightful drive 
 from Glacier Point. Starting from 
 there at 1:45 P. M. we skirted the 
 mountain top upwards for one and 
 a half miles in full view of the 
 snowy heights of the upper Sierras; 
 then began the descent of over 4,000 feet on 
 our twenty-eight-mile drive. The mountains 
 are heavily timbered with tall fir and pine, in- 
 terspersed with smaller growth and occasional 
 spots of meadow lands, thus forming for us a 
 most beautiful landscape. A large grouse was 
 seen ; and the blue jays, robins, orioles, squirrels, 
 chipmunks and all nature seemed at home and 
 happy. The snow upon the heights was in 
 sight for many miles, and near us in one place 
 patches of snow were seen on the hillside midst 
 the grass and flowers that were growing close 
 
 by. 
 
 A very rare thing occurred in the forest just 
 after we had crossed the stream, Bridal Veil 
 Creek. A large cinnamon bear lumbered 
 across the road several yards ahead of us, and 
 quickly disappeared among the trees. We felt 
 quite complimented to have Mr. Bruin favor us 
 with so much consideration. We passed through 
 a forest of tamarack trees, where streams were 
 frequent and the ground swampy in places. 
 And again we were in among numberless tall 
 sugar and yellow pines, which were a source of 
 unceasing admiration to our party. 
 
 All too soon our roadway wound round the 
 side of the mountain, and suddenly turned 
 
 28 
 
THE YOSEMITE 
 
 into the regular route from the Valley. The 
 sweet-scented azalia gave us delicate fragrance 
 as we sped along; and as we neared the Wa- 
 wona Valley the sun, lowering in the heavens, 
 lent a mysterious charm to the distant shadowy 
 mountain sides and Valley below, where the 
 atmosphere took on the hues of a dusky blue. 
 We enjoyed the trip thoroughly, arriving at 
 7:30 P. M., and now we are settled again for 
 the night. To-morrow morning we start early 
 upon the long stage ride to Raymond, where 
 we take the train for Oakland. The stage ride 
 is not such a hardship as is usually considered. 
 The coaches and roads are of the best and the 
 horses are large and strong and well cared for. 
 Good-by until Fourth of July morning. 
 
 MOTHER. 
 
 as 
 
APPENDIX 
 Letter from Friend dated June, 1907 
 
 Describing Trip out of the Valley 
 by the Yosemite Valley Railroad 
 
DOWN THE MERCED BY RAIL 
 
 Oakland, June 30, 1907. 
 
 Dear Friend: — 
 
 Y 2:30 P. M. we were homeward 
 bound. We left Sentinel Hotel by 
 stage for El Portel, a four hours' 
 ride down the Merced River, past 
 Yosemite Palls, Eagle Peak, Three 
 Brothers, Cathedral Rock, Three 
 Graces, El Capitan, Bridal Veil Falls, 
 The Cascades and the Ribbon Falls, 
 on the opposite side of the river from Inspira- 
 tion Point. 
 
 The road was formed by blasting the rock, 
 and is very narrow and rocky, but we enjoyed 
 it among the immense pines, firs and fragrant 
 evergreens, crossing numerous brooks, and al- 
 ways close to the cliffs, which rise 3,000 feet 
 above the floor, completely enclosing the 
 valley, except for one narrow outlet. 
 
 Passing through the Royal Arch, formed by 
 the blasting, we arrive at El Portel. This is 
 the terminus of the Yosemite Valley railroad, 
 built on a narrow plateau made by the widen- 
 ing of the rocky walls at this point. Hotel, 
 depot and row of tents form a picturesque little 
 hamlet in the lap of the mountains. The ac- 
 commodations are all that could be desired: 
 first-class table and clean, comfortable beds. 
 
 After a good night's rest we were off for 
 Merced at 7:30 in the morning, through what 
 is called Mossy Canyon. The great cliffs are 
 covered with a rich emerald moss, so delicate 
 and beautiful. At South Fork the rare spec- 
 tacle of two rushing mountain rivers, each 
 issuing out of its own separate canyon in tumb- 
 ling confusion is witnessed. This is one of the 
 
 31 
 
THE YOvSEMITE 
 
 prettiest features en route. Between this and 
 Bagby the canyon is especially interesting; the 
 steep, rocky walls draw together here, leaving 
 only a very narrow, winding cleft through 
 which the river descends in a series of falls, 
 whirlpools, cataracts and rapids — presenting a 
 picture of which one never wearies, on account 
 of its variety. The grade is cut out of the rock- 
 wall, about forty feet above the river, which it 
 follows for nearly sixty miles. In its downward 
 course from the Yosemite to the San Joaquih, 
 it descends nearly 4,000 feet. The road through 
 this gorge is one of the most interesting on 
 the continent, and for panoramic scenery, has 
 no equal. 
 
 Leaving Bagby, we saw pyramids of large 
 stones and boulders, thrown out by miners, 
 while panning the rich, gold-bearing gravel. 
 The banks are well worked over; this was 
 done in the days of '49, yet there are quartz 
 crushers here still, and we saw one stamp mill. 
 
 The river is very rough till we come to 
 the Merced Falls. As we neared Merced we 
 saw a rolling country: grain, herds of grazing 
 cattle and flocks of sheep, numbering thou- 
 sands, drifting in a seeming endless stream. 
 Some parts are covered with grape vines and 
 fruit trees. 
 
 The cost from Merced to the Valley, by rail 
 and stage and return, is $18.50. From Merced 
 to San Francisco, the fare is $4.05; so one may 
 see the Yosemite "without a gold mine." 
 We arrived in Oakland at 5.15 P. M. 
 
 Sincerely yours, 
 
 Mrs. E. I. 
 
 32 
 
'Nearer to the foot of the Nevada Falls ' 
 Page 24 
 
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