..MM 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 
 
 Cliap.i0-SCX^opyriglit No 
 Slielf.A..t4-l^ 
 
 > 
 
 UNITED SJATES OF AMERICA. 
 

 vStV'''':J.r<^ 
 

 IZAAK WALTON HOUSE, 
 
 CLAYTON. N. Y. 
 
 THOUSAND ISLANDS RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Ode of the best and most popular houses iu Clayton or on the 
 River. Complete in all appointmentr,. Commodious, well iHr- 
 nished rooms. Cuisine a standard of excellence. 
 
 250 FEET OF PIAZZA FRONTING THE RIVER. 
 
 Walton House Annex contains several comfortable F'anuly 
 Apartments, affording all the advantages of a Summer Resort, -with 
 quiet surroundings. Reasonable Rates. Address 
 
 T. M. ESSELSTYN, Manager. 
 
! Jsatts* jB-v.. 
 
'S^;: 
 
 i'.M. 
 
THE ROUTES 
 
 PURSUED BY 
 
 THE EXCURSION STEAMERS 
 
 UPON THE 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER 
 
 CLAYTON AND GANANOQUE TO WESTMINSTER 
 
 PARK AND ALEXANDRIA BA V 
 
 ^^ ^t OF rn.,„ ^ 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 JNO. A. HADDOCK AND J. H. DURHAM 
 
 CLAYTON AND ALEXANDRIA BAY, N. Y. 
 
 PRINTED AND BOUND BY 
 
 WEED-PARSONS PRINTING COMPANY 
 Albany, N. Y. 
 
Copyrighted, 1895. 
 All rigxits reserved. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 0^^ 
 
 , / 
 
 / 
 
Co tl;e "Rambler. 
 
 .rT"^v,HIS little book is not 
 written with the idea 
 that it wiU take the 
 place of more pretentious guide 
 books, nor as a history of The 
 Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence River; nor yet is it written 
 especially in the interest of any steamboat company, nor of any 
 particular route; but solely to point out to the visitor such places of 
 interest among the islands as are most worthy of attention, and the 
 means by which they may be reached. In addition, what may be 
 termed side routes or excursions have been pointed out, which if 
 taken will add largely to the interest of a summer tour in and 
 around the St. Lawrence River region. 
 
 Believing, also, that incidents which have occurred so long ago 
 among and in the vicinity of the Thousand Islands as to have be- 
 come history, will add much to its interest, a brief sketch of each 
 is reproduced, and the locality in which it took place pointed out. 
 
 The writer claims no originality in these sketches. They have been 
 drawn from the best attainable sources, re- written and condensed 
 to suit the scope of the work, and the only merit the writer can 
 claim, is, that he has been diligent in his researches, and in conse- 
 
I^ing • @|o§eph'§ • p\cpmitage. 
 
 A charming resort, just completed and bpen to guests, 
 only one-quarter of a mile from the Carthage and Adiron- 
 dack line, from whence two daily trains connect with the 
 Rv W. & O. system, at Carthage, seventeen miles distant. 
 
 This Hotel commands a full view of lovely Lake 
 Bonaparte and is connected with woodland scenery of 
 inexpressible charm, once a part of the vast territory owned 
 by Joseph Bonaparte in Northern New York. The ex-king 
 had selected this ground as his hunting headquarters, and 
 was heard to speak of its loveliness and beauty, and with a 
 view to perpetuate this interesting and historical fact this 
 resort has been so named. 
 
 Summer guests at the St. Lawrence River would enjoy 
 as a matter of diversion a short stay at King Joseph's Her- 
 mitage. Guest will receive most genteel treatment at fair 
 rates. For information address 
 
 JOSEPH PAHUD, Prop., 
 
 Harrisville, N. Y. 
 
The Rambler. 5 
 
 quence has brought to light some interesting events which have 
 escaped the scrutiny of those who have gleaned in the same field. 
 If, therefore, through the perusal of this little manual the reader 
 has added to the enjoyment of a sojourn among, or a visit to, The 
 Thousand Islands, or if it has in any degree increased the pleasure 
 and satisfaction of an Island Ramble, or augmented his stock of 
 knowledge, the object of the work is accomplished. 
 
 The truth is, that in these Island Rambles there is something more 
 than sensuous enjoyment. They transport one to a higher plane. 
 They are, in a large sense, refining. They develop a love for the 
 beautiful in nature. They are, in short, promoters of a true aestheti- 
 cisna. They educate, they expand, they exalt. Those who look 
 often upon these scenes assimilate, unconsciously though it may be, 
 many of their beauties until reaching a higher standpoint with a 
 broader view, they 
 
 " * * * Take no private road, 
 
 But look through Nature up to Nature's God." 
 
 Having thus, dear Rambler, set forth the " ends and aims " of this 
 little book, the writer leaves it in your hands, with the earnest hope 
 that it may answer every purpose for which it was originally de- 
 signed 
 
Cornwall B. 
 
 ORNWALL JDROTHERS, 
 
 TICKET AGENTS, 
 
 And General Dealers in 
 
 DRY Q QODS, ]\ lOTlONS, Q ROCERIES, 
 
 CROCKERY, CLOTHING, ETC. 
 
 CAMP AND ISLAND SUPPLIES A SPECIALTY. 
 
 Also Agents for Huyler's Candies. ALEXANDRIA BAY, N. Y. 
 
o* 
 
 ^\je T^ambles 
 
 IN taking the rambles among the islands the visitor must be gov- 
 erned by his or her own convenience as to time. The steamer 
 Islander makes the most interesting trip, and the longest; its 
 distance being in fact nearer sixty miles than the usually advertised 
 fifty-mile ramble. In so doing the Islander visits some localities of 
 great interest, where other excursion boats are unable to go, owing 
 to a greater draught of water. This is again alluded to under 
 another head. All these facts are set forth in the bills provided, and 
 put into the hands of an efficient and gentlemanly corps of adver- 
 tising agents. On every trip among the islands a special agent ac- 
 companies the boat, who will point out every spot of interest, 
 thereby largely increasing the pleasures of the occasion. 
 
 If at any time, however, a special route is to be taken, or the 
 managers have decided upon an extra trip having some special 
 attraction, you may rest assured that it will be duly advertised and 
 set forth ; and when such a trip is proclaimed, don't fail to examine 
 this little Manual carefully ; because it is very likely that if the trip 
 is within the scope of a fifty-mile ramble, it will give you some 
 
W. G. CHAFFEE, 
 
 Oswego, N. Y. 
 
 GOOD POSITIONS 
 
 Penmanship, 
 
 and Spanish. 
 ■ By Mail or Personally, and Secures 
 
 for all his Shorthand .... 
 
 .... Pupils when Competent. 
 
 AGENT FOR THE 
 
 CALIGRATH.s- 
 
 the best Typewriter, and for the 
 
 -s « m e o s R i!^ p H . 
 
 the best Duplicator. 
 
 Stenographers Furnished Business Men without charge for my Services. 
 Correspondence Solicited. Circulars Free. 
 
 W. G. CHAFFEE, 
 
 OSWEGO, N. Y. 
 
The Rambler. 
 
 interesting information in advance. In order to a clear compre- 
 hension of the sights and scenes among the Islands, let us take an 
 afternoon ramble, and close the day with a grand Search Light Ex- 
 cursion at night on the noble steamer St. Lawrence, as a finishing 
 toucli, a fitting comi^lement, a rounding out to the ramble of the day. 
 We have all either seen or heard of those wonderful dioramic 
 paintings, in which is portrayed a lovely landscape with wooded bills, 
 turret'ed towers, flowing streams and falling cataracts, which, under 
 the marvelous light of a spring morning, seem a veritable reality. 
 Suddenly the scene changes ; night approaches ; day-light gradually 
 disappears, and the soft May moon lights the landscape ; every harsh 
 and rugged line is smoothed away, while the deep shadows lurk in 
 leafy coverts ; lights sparkle and gleam from castle and tower ; the 
 streams become threads of molten silver, and the cataracts draperies 
 of filmy lace laden with pearls. I have no fitting language in which 
 to describe the beauty of it all, but far and away above these, a day- 
 Hght and Search Light ramble, taken as a 
 whole, among the Thousand Islands of the 
 St. Lawrence river, constitute Nature's Great 
 Diorama, elsewhere unequaled on the face . 
 of the globe. Even the writer of the book 
 of Job, incomparable in poetic descrip- 
 tion, having seen these sights, might have 
 written : — 
 
 Who, then, shall describe the beauties thereof ? 
 Behold ! The language of the learned faileth and for 
 
 his dreams the poet flndeth no utterance. 
 AVhere, then, shall the understanding be found, and 
 
 wheie is the key of Knowledge ? 
 Look thou upon the brightening eye, and the enrap>- 
 
 tured look, and thou may'st understand 
 That voiceless look is elo- 
 quence itself. 
 And from it learn thou, that, 
 
 like the "Music of the 
 
 Spheres," 
 The language of the faoul hath 
 
 no words 
 
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Fifty Miles of Gorg-eous Scenery. 
 
 WINGING away from the Railway 
 Wharf, at Clayton, where the 
 great New York Central System 
 discharges its thousands of eager sight- 
 seers, the steamer Islander, of the Thou- 
 sand Island Steamboat Company, begins 
 her magnificent ramble among the fa- 
 mous island group. We touch for a mo- 
 ment at the wharf of Round Island Park, with its magnificent Hotel Frontenac as a fit center- 
 piece for its coastline fringe of elegant cottages. You will probably visit the " Frontenac," and 
 when there, if you desire it, the clerk wUl furnish you with a list of cottage-owners, so that it 
 is not necessary to take up our space with the list. " Round Island Park " is one of the most 
 delightful resorts among the islands, and will well repay an extended visit. On our left is 
 "Little Round Island," and beyond that lies Colborne's Island, Bluff , Jefferson, Maple and 
 Robbins' Islands 
 
Thousand Island 
 House. 
 
 Cor. of Ontario and Brock Sts., 
 KINGSTON, ONT. 
 
 CON. MILLAN, Proprietor. 
 
 Commodious, Comfortable, Reasonable in 
 Price. 
 
 Nearest all the Landings for Steamers, and not 
 ten rods from R. R. Depot. 
 
 Fronts the Great City Hall. Open Day 
 and Nip^ht. 
 
 Information cheerfully given. 
 
 in the midst of the Hunting and Fishing 
 Grounds of the Upper St. Lawrence. 
 
The Rambler. 13 
 
 There was a ti-agedy on Maple Island in 1865, a very mysterious 
 one: and it is only within two or three years that any clue to the 
 mystery has been found, and even now, though circumstances seem 
 to point out a reasonable solution, the evidence is incomplete, and in 
 all probability the real facts in the case will never be brought to 
 light. I have only space here to give you a brief outline of the main 
 facts, referring you to Major John A. Haddock's "International 
 Souvenir History of the Thousand Islands," where you will find full 
 and complete — 
 
 The Mystery of Maple Island. 
 
 In the summer of 1865, in the early part of June, a stranger arrived 
 at the hotel at Fisher's Landing, then kept by John Keech. He was 
 from Gananoque, and had been brought over in a skiff by a well- 
 known oarsman of that village, since deceased. For a few days the 
 stranger contented himself at the hotel, or took short walks into 
 the country, going at one time as far as Omar, a pleasant hamlet 
 about a mile and a half from the Landing, or else, hiring a skiff, he 
 would take a day and row about among the islands. 
 
 Finally he one day announced his intention to have a cabin built 
 on one of the islands, the better to enable him to enjoy the pastimes 
 of fishing and hunting, of which he seemed to be extremely foud. 
 Acting on this idea, he hired carpenters, procured lumber, bought a 
 skiff witli all its accessories, and all the necessary table furniture 
 and cooking utensils to enable him to " keep house," and "moved " 
 into his new domicile, which was built by the side of a precipice, 
 and so hidden by a thick undergrowth that it could not be seen 
 from a passing skiff. He purchased his supplies from the farmers 
 on a neighboring island, and having books and a violin, for he is 
 said to have been quite a musician, time seemed to slip pleasantly 
 away, though he admitted no one to anything like terms of familiar- 
 ity, nor invited any guests to his cabin. It may be well to say, in 
 passing, that he was a man seemingly about thirty years of age, 
 black hair and eyes and black chin whiskers, well dressed, very un- 
 communicative, dark as a Spaniard, and very restless. He had 
 plenty of money, and paid his bills promptly in EngUsh gold. The 
 summer passed quietly away, and but for another occurrence, the 
 " Hermit,"' as people began to speak of him, would have been almost 
 forgotten. ■. 
 
A. C. McINTYRE, 
 
 THE 
 
 Veteran Photographer 
 
 OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1871. 
 
 THOUSANPS OF VieWS. 
 LAReeST CA/«V6RA IN 
 
 NORTHeRK Hew YORK. 
 
 LiFs-LONG exreRieKce. 
 
 FRJCeS RSASOKABLS. 
 
The Rambler. 15 
 
 One night a light was seen on Maple Island, and the conclusion 
 was that the hermit's cabin had caught fire; but not thinking of any 
 personal danger to him, no especial attention was paid to it. It was 
 thought, of course, that he would take his boat and go ashore some- 
 where, either to Clayton, Grinnell's, or Fisher's Landing; but as he 
 did not put in an appearance anywhere the next morning, a couple 
 of fishermen went ashore on Maple Island, and there they found his 
 dead body. His throat was cut, and on his naked breast there were 
 three crosses slashed with a knife, the crosses being disposed in the 
 form of a triangle. 
 
 For a week before this tragedy, several men who, by their language 
 and appearance were set down as Southerners, were quartered at 
 different hotels in Clayton; but on that evening they had settled 
 their bills, and hired some oarsmen to take them to Alexandria Bay, 
 which they did. It was learned later on that they did not stay at 
 Alexandria Bay that night, but no one seemed to know when they 
 left, nor where they went. These facts were brought out on the 
 inquest which was held, but nothing more was discovered at that 
 time. A brief article in the Clayton paper. On the St. Laicrence, 
 gave the above facts in substance, and from that slight clue the 
 mystery is well nigh cleared up. As a starting point, the reader 
 may understand that the "three crosses," cut in the form of a tri- 
 angle, were a well-known sign of a secret society which flourished 
 during the war, both North and South, commonly known as the 
 "Knights of the Golden Circle;" and hence it is fair to presume 
 that the assassins were brother " Knights " of the hermit, who were 
 fulfilling their oaths by murdering him. The next question arose, 
 why should they murder him? What was the cause? 
 
 To make this story short I will just say, that certain parties were 
 offered the sum of $300,000 in gold to assassinate Lincoln, Seward, 
 Johnson, Grant, Sherman, Sheridan and one or two other members 
 of the cabinet, and a proportionate sum for as many as were assassi- 
 nated. There was paid to John H. Surratt, in the Queen's Hotel in 
 Toronto, $100,000 of this sum in English gold, paid to him by the 
 notorious Jake Thompson, at that time an agent for the Confederacy 
 in Canada. There was with John H. Surratt, at the time, John A. 
 Payne, brother to the Payne who was hanged for the attempted 
 assassination of Secretary Seward and his son. John A. Payne was 
 the treasurer of a secret society in "Washington; Surratt and Payne 
 
^HE NEW WINDSOR, 
 
 CLAYTON, N. Y. 
 
 A NEW HOUSE. 
 
 CENTRAL LOCATION. 
 
 EVERY CONVENIENCE. 
 PRICES REASONABLE. 
 
 FRONTING THE GREAT RIVER. 
 
 CUISINE SUPERIOR. 
 
LINLITHGOW. 
 
A^^i^". 
 
 J.W.Church, Pr<?r 
 
 ^f /ooQ Isldnds. 
 
 The above Hotel has been newly fitted and furnislied throughout 
 for the season of 1895. Its rooms are large and commodious, 
 well furnished, the best of beds, excellent ventilation — in short, 
 ideal rooms. The table is kept supplied with all the delicacies of the 
 season, well cooked, with good service. The bar is supplied with all 
 the best brands of Wines and Liquors, and the best Imported Cigars. 
 The House is but two minutes' walk from the Steamboat Landing, and 
 one minute's walk from the Depot. Terms very reasonable. Special 
 rates on application. 
 
 TAKE NOTICE. 
 
 When you leave the Steamer Landing, take the first crossing to 
 the right hand side of the street, and the first Hotel is the American. 
 Don't forget it. The best House in every respect in Gananoque 
 
 Best Oarsmen and Guides on the river provided. 
 
The Rambler. 19 
 
 left Toronto the very night the money was paid into Surratt's hands. 
 We all know what became of Surratt, but what of Payne ? All the 
 evidences, circumstantial though they be, point to the fact that John 
 A. Payne was murdered on Maple Island, in the St. Lawrence river, 
 by his brother Knights of the Golden Circle, because he failed to 
 divide with them the blood money received for the assassination of 
 Abraham Lincoln. I have no time nor space here to enter into 
 all the facts, but when you have read in the Souvenir all the evi- 
 dences which have been unearthed, you will agree with the above 
 . statement. 
 
 We now steam away toward " Grinnell's Island " and the Pullman 
 House landing. Do not make the mistake that some do, and imagine 
 this to be the celebrated Pullman Cottage, because it isn't ; but it is 
 one of the very pleasant summer hotels on the river, and lately en- 
 larged one-third in size. Glance along that narrow channel away 
 to our left. It leads past the " Pahsades," a huge granite preci- 
 pice on the head of Wellesley Island, and out into " Eel Bay," and 
 through it a steamer plies her route every two hours to Grand View 
 Park, a beautiful place next to the Canadian channel. Down yon- 
 der, in the very narrowest part of the strait, between the "Pali- 
 sades " and " Murray Island," there was quite a spirited naval battle 
 fought once, the history of which is as follows: 
 
 Xaval Skirmish on tlie St. Lawrence. 
 
 On the 9th of August, 1813, the schooners Julia and Growler, be- 
 coming separated from the remainder of Commodore Chauncey's 
 fleet, set sail down the lake, hotly pursued by several of the English 
 vessels. The Growler succeeded in making the harbor of Oswego, 
 and anchored under the protection of the guns of the fort. The Julia 
 held her course down the lake, with a fair wind, and being a fast 
 sailer, she soon outstripped the English vessels, two of which, the 
 Seneca and Simcoe, had been in close pursuit. The Julia was in 
 command of Mr. Trant, the sailing master, and was armed with 
 one long 32-pounder on a pivot, two long sixes, and forty men. The 
 Simcoe's armament consisted of twelve guns and seventy-six men, 
 and the Seneca's, four guns and forty men. Passing down the river 
 until opposite French creek, Mr. Trant directed his course across the 
 river through what is now known as " Robbins' Cut," the route taken 
 by the splendid St. Lawrence on her search-light excursions between 
 
Capt. SIMEON G. JOHNSON, 
 
 PROPRIETOR 
 
 Steamer •; Nightingale, 
 
 AND OP 
 
 Tlie Clayton Shipyard. 
 
 The Nightingale is a 95-foot Steam Pro- 
 peller, making six trips each day on week 
 days, and two trips on Sunday, between 
 Clayton and Fine View, stopping each way 
 at Round Island, Pullman's (Grand View Park) 
 and Thousand Island Park. 
 
 AN EXCELLENT BOAT, CAREFULLY 
 MANAGED. 
 
The Rambler. 21 
 
 Bobbins' and Grindstone islands, and out into Eel bay. Here he lay- 
 to near the group of barren rocks known as " Indian Islands," just 
 off Grand View Park. It was not long before his pursuers appeared, 
 reinforced by another small vessel, whose name is not known. The 
 Simcoe and the strange vessel entered the bay from the Canadian 
 channel, while the Seneca had followed the Julia directly through 
 Robbins' cut. For a few moments all was hurry and bustle on board 
 the little schooner. Every sheet that would draw was set, and she 
 sped away for the narrow passage between Wellesley and Hemlock 
 islands, and taking up her position just off the Palisades where the 
 channel begins to widen, she lowered her sails and the crew went to 
 quarters. The enemy came gallantly on with a strong breeze, which 
 increased in force as it sucked through the narrow passage, making 
 it very difficult to retrace their way, and compelling them to follow 
 each other, the narrowness of the passage preventing them from 
 comingalongsideof each other, or even wearing so as to bring their 
 broadsides to bear. The commander of the Julia opened fire with 
 his long 33, and in a short time the Simcoe, which was in advance, 
 was disabled, and her consorts were as rapidly as possible trying to 
 retrace their course. Although completely at his mercy, the gallant 
 commander of the Julia did not deem it prudent to attempt to take 
 possession of the Simcoe, because of her greater superiority in men, 
 and, besides, there was always the chance that some of the enemy's 
 vessels might gain his rear ; so, deeming discretion the better part 
 of valor, he gave the Simcoe a parting shot or two, and made liis es- 
 cape up the river, joining the fleet on Lake Ontario. For this gal- 
 lant action Mr. Trant was promoted to a lieutenancy. 
 
 Many years ago, where the Pullman House now stands, Mr. Grin- 
 nell kept one of the old time "taverns," the like of which is seldom 
 found in these days, and from time to time many distinguished per- 
 sonages became his guests for the sake of the hunting and fishing, 
 not even excepting royalty itself, in the person of Count Surveiliers, 
 alias Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Naples and of Spain. Those 
 granite rocks up yonder, o'ertopped with a row of beautiful cottages, 
 are named Jersey Heights. You should land here some day and 
 take a look at " Grinnell " Island, and also at the new Park on the 
 head of Murray Island. 
 
 Our next stopping place is at the Thousand Island Park land- 
 ing, in full view of the stately Columbia hotel, and of many of the 
 
MANNING & DAVIS, 
 
 DEALERS IN FINE 
 
 WINES, LIQUORS AND CIGARS, 
 
 All Leading Brands of Imported and Domestic 
 Ales, Lagers and Mineral Waters. 
 
 MILWAUKEE, ROCHESTER AND ST. LOUIS LASERS ON TAP. 
 
 We make a specialty of furnisliing Cottagers and Camping Parties 
 with first class goods at fair prices. 
 
 NEAR STEANIBOAT LANDING. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY, N. Y. 
 
 Always the very 
 
 BEST 
 
 That can be had. At prices consistent with 
 
 QUA LITY. 
 
 The Thousand Island Meat Market, 
 
 SAM B. MILLER, Proprietor, 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY, N. Y. 
 
 Caters to the BevSt Island Trade. 
 
THE BIJOU PAVILION 
 
 THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE, 
 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY, N, Y. 
 
 HEADQUARTERS FOR SOUVENIRS OF THE 
 THOUSAND ISLES. 
 
 Huyler's Candies received daily from. New York. 
 
 Japanese G-oods. 
 
 Wliite-Wood Sonvenirs, Vie-w Books and 
 
 PtLotograplis. 
 
 Indian Baskets, Canoes and Cnrionsities. 
 
 Reading Matter of all Kinds. All tlie Latest Novels. 
 
 AGENT FOR MAJOR HADDOCK'S GREAT "SOUVENIR OF 
 THE ST, LAWRENCE RIVER." 
 
 E. W. ESTES 
 
The Rambler. 25 
 
 elegant cottages of this beautiful summer city of the St. Lawrence. 
 Here are all the modern conveniences, electrical lights, water works, 
 telegraph and telephone communication, a steamer for some point 
 almost every hour in the day, excellent bathing, splendid fishing, 
 and, in fact, an ideal summer home. I need not enter into a de- 
 tailed description here, as you will find its history printed in full 
 elsewhere. Directly in front of the landing are the "Lone Tree" 
 and '•■ Twin " Islands. We next touch at the wharf in front of the 
 "Fine View House''— one of the many pleasant hotels on the river — 
 and only ten minutes walk to the Thousand Island Park. On the 
 right is the pleasant little hamlet of Fisher's landing, " Occident " 
 and " Orient " islands, and, a little below them, Fredericks' Islands, 
 owned by a merchant of Carthage, N. Y. 
 
 Along the shore of Wellesley Island, on our left, is a long line of 
 delightful cottages, among which is "Hiawatha," the quaint cottage 
 of Prof. Hoose, an eminent educator, and the group of cottages, 
 "The Jolly Oaks," among which are those of Mr. J. L. Norton, a 
 prominent merchant of Carthage, and Hon. W. ^Y. Butterfield, 'of 
 Redwood, K Y. The next place of any special importance is " Peel 
 Dock," and thereby hangs a tale ; " and here it is.* 
 
 Burning of the Steamer " Sir Kobert Peel.»» 
 
 Those who have kept themselves informed on matters of history 
 wiU rejiiember that, on the 29th day of December, 1837, the steamer 
 Caroline, an American steamboat, while lying tied to the wharf at 
 Schlosser, a port on the Canadian side of the Niagara river below 
 Buffalo, was boarded by a band of Canadians, robbed, set fire to, cut 
 loose from her moorings, and sent burning over Niagara Falls. This 
 caused great indignation throughout the country, and added much 
 to the excitement consequent on the breaking out of the so-called 
 Patriot war, which was, in fact, a weak rebelHon on the part of 
 some dissatisfied Canadians, with which a number of United States 
 citizens very foolishly took sides. The steamer Sir Robert Peel was 
 new and staunch, built at Brockville only the year before, and owned 
 by both Canadian and American citizens. She was sailed by Capt. 
 John B. Armstrong. Starting from Prescott on the afternoon of the 
 
 *Bear in mind, however, that until the occurrence here related took place, this 
 was called " McDonnell's Wharf," and not "Peel Dock," 
 
Sum mer '. 'Re sort. 
 
 thb: new 
 
 HAY ISLAND 
 
 HOUSE. 
 
 In the midst of the far-famed l housand Islands 
 Of the renowned River St. Lawrence. 
 
 GANANOQUE P- O. 
 
 ONTARIO, CANADA. 
 
 J. DE WITTA, Proprietor. 
 
 This Commodious Summer Resort has recently beeii enlarged and 
 refitted throughout in first-class style. The House is situated ^ ot a 
 mile from and commands a full view of, the old and picturesque 
 Town of Gananoque, (pop. 4,000) which may be reached by tram or 
 boat. The Royal Mail Line steamers, the New Island Wanderer (011 
 her daily trips) and all other vessels pass closely to and m full view ot 
 the House, between whicb and the Town the mam channel passes. 
 
 The Island contains about 125 acres, there being a beautiful yard 
 and grove adjoining the House. The Main Building is 84 x 30, the 
 sleeping apartments 13 x 10— newly plastered— some with connecting 
 doors. The Dining Rooms in a separate building. 
 
 The Island is situated in the very midst of the famous 1000 Island 
 group — over 60 of the same being in full view. The best hshing 
 grounds in the River surround the Island. Oarsmen, boats and fash- 
 ing outfits at reasonable rates. Splendid bathing facilities - safe for 
 children. 
 
 Terms for board and lodging, |6 per week and upwards, accord- 
 ing to rooms. 
 
 For further particulars apply to the proprietor. 
 
The Rambler. 27 
 
 29th of May, 1838, she touched at Brocl'ville on hex' vay to Toronto, 
 having on board a cargo and nineteen passengers. She arrived at Mc- 
 Donnell's wharf at midnight to take on wood. It had been hinted 
 to the captain before leaving Brockville that there was danger 
 ahead, but he disregarded the warning. The passengers were asleep 
 in the cabin, and the crew had almost finished their labor of taking 
 on wood, when a party of twenty-two men, disguised and painted 
 like Indians, and armed with muskets and bayonets, rushed on 
 board, yelling like savages, and shouting, "Remember the Caro- 
 line!" They drove the passengers and crew ashore, allowing but 
 little time for the removal of baggage belonging to them, the most 
 of which was lost. The steamer was fired in several places, and the 
 party left in two boats, steering for Abel's Island, about four miles 
 away, which they reached at sunrise. The ill-fated steamer sunk in 
 mid-channel but a short distance below the wharf where she was 
 captured, and there she now lies twenty fathoms deep, while we 
 sail to and fro directly over her wreck. 
 
 The leader of this party was William Johnston, better known to 
 fame, or notoriety rather, as "Bill Johnston," a Canadian outlaw, 
 around whose career, and that of his daughter Kate, the once 
 famous novelist, " Ned Buntline " (E. Z. C. Judson), threw a halo of 
 mystery and romance. Bill Johnston was born at Three Rivers, 
 Lower Canada, February 1, 1783. His parents removed to, or near, 
 Kingston, in 1784, and at the breaking out of the war of 1812, he was 
 a grocer in Kingston, and a member of a military company. For 
 an act of insubordination, it is said, though what was its nature is 
 not now apparent, he was tried by a court martial, lodged in jail, 
 and his property confiscated. Escaping thence he came to the 
 States, and became the bitterest and most vindictive foe Canada 
 ever had. He acted as a spy for the Americans during the wax of 
 1813-15, robbed the British mails, and committed every depredation 
 possible upon Canada and Canadians. After the burning of the Sir 
 Robert Peel, he was outlawed by both the United States and Cana- 
 dian governments, who tried in every way possible to effect his cap- 
 ture ; but his hiding places were so numerous, and so many were his 
 personal friends, that, with the aid of his daughter Kate, who kept 
 him supplied with food, which she took to him in the dead of night 
 in her skiff alone, and with news of his enemies, also, that they suc- 
 ceeded in capturing hini but twice, both of which times he escaped ' 
 
ECHO LODGE, 
 
 THOUSAND ISLANDS. 
 
 This new Summer Resort is situated in tlie very- 
 heart of the Thousand Islands, in a beautiful, secluded 
 and picturesque spot near the celebrated "Fiddler's Elbow," 
 in view of the "Lost Channel" and within speaking 
 distance of the famous "Echo Rock." Fishing and 
 Scenery are acknowledged to be the grandest on the 
 River St. Lawrence. 
 
 Conveyance meets all trains at Lansdowne Station, 
 G. T. R. ; only a few minutes drive and easily accessible 
 by boat from Alexandria Bay, Rockport, Kingston and 
 Gananoque. 
 
 Those requiring rest, seclusion, and home comforts 
 will do well to write for particulars to 
 
 O. L. POTTER, Proprietor, 
 
 ivy' lea p. C, ONTARIO. 
 
 REASONABLE RATES BY THE WEEK. 
 
 Steamer ' ' Princess Louise, ' ' from Kingston, calls at 
 Echo lyodge every Friday and Saturday, leaving Kingston 
 at 4.00 P. M. 
 
Thousand Islands, 
 
 St. Lawrence River. 
 
 JEFFERSON HOUSE, Alexandria Bay, N. Y. 
 
 Z. Bigness, Proprietor. 
 
 R. H. Service, Clerk. 
 
 Enlarged and Refurnished throughout. First-class Bar with Restaurant 
 attached. Everything New. Good Barn Accommodations. Rates, $2.00 per 
 day, 50 cents a meal. 
 
The Rambler. 31 
 
 though if the stories told of his hair-breadth escapes, whether true 
 or not, were written down, they would fill a book. Finally, when 
 matters became quiet, he returned to his home in Clayton, and in 
 time was appointed keeper of the Rock Island light, whose rays 
 illumine the very spot over which once shone the light of the burning 
 steamer Sir Robert Peel. 
 
 On our left, as we leave Peel Dock, is a lovely little wliite cottage 
 on "Island Kate," the residence of the late Mrs. Tomlinson, of 
 Watertown, N. Y. In a short time we swing out from the main 
 channel and pass, on our left, the miniature "Island of St. Helena," 
 with its batteries of Quaker guns. The surface of the island, curi- 
 ously enough, is almost a/oc simile of St. Plelena itself; and so the 
 genial owner, H. Stillman, Esq., of Oswego, has utilized the idea, 
 and thus Ave have every prominent poiut located, even to the tomb 
 of Napoleon. If there were only a miniature Napoleon on the 
 island, with a miniature Sir Hudson Lowe for his jailer, the illusion 
 would be complete. On our right is "St. Lawrence (formerly Cent- 
 ral) Park." Here is a fine hotel, and a group of beautiful summer 
 homes, owned by Rev, Richmond K. Fisk, Ayers, Mass.; C. W. 
 Hackett, of Utica, N. Y.; Hon. Charles R. Skinner, of Albany, State 
 Superintendent of Public Instruction; J. F. Moffet, Hon. B. B. Tag- 
 gart, W. G. Williams, Judge P. C. Williams, and H. F. Ingiehart, 
 all of Watertown, N. Y. 
 
 We touch, for a moment, at " Point Vivian," a collection of beauti- 
 ful cottages on the mainland, and then away for Alexandria Bay. 
 
 On our left is " Hill Crest" and " Shady Covert," the property of 
 B. J. Maycock, of Buffalo. On our right we approach "Wild Rose 
 Island," the property of Hon. W. G. Rose, of Cleveland, O., which 
 is connected with "Gypsy," owned by J. M. Curtis of the same city, 
 by a beautiful bridge of a single span, not a "bridge of sighs," but 
 a bridge of joys. Opposite, Gen. Van Patten, of Claverack-on-the^ 
 Hudson, has a fine location, and then comes "Seven Isles," the 
 beautiful summer liome of Gen. Bradley Winslow, of Watertown, 
 N. Y. ; " Louisiana Point," owned by the late Judge Labatte, of New 
 Orleans, and the beautiful cottage, known as ' ' Lambie Point," owned 
 by the Messrs. Lambie," of Theresa, N. Y. 
 
 We now approach the lower channel group, leaving "Bell Vista," 
 "Nehmabin," "Comfort" and " Greystone Villa" on our left, pass- 
 ing " Wauwinet," " Keewaydin " and " Cuba," and now the steamer. 
 
HOTEL FRONTENAC 
 
 KINGSTON, CANADA. 
 
 Opens on June loth to October ist for 
 
 Summer Tourists. 
 
 Special rates for Parties during the Summer 
 
 Months. 
 
 Rates, $2.50 to $3.50. 
 
 THOS. CRATE, Proprietor. 
 
The Rambler. 33 
 
 with a square turn to the left, runs so close to the " Devils Oven" 
 that you can almost touch it, and then heads toward " Castle Eest.'" 
 On the left it raay be that the visitor will again this season greet 
 the " Red Cross," the summer home of one of the grandest women 
 of the age, the Florence Nightingale of America, ]Miss Clara Barton, 
 of Washington, D. C. To the soldier, wounded and dying, slie was 
 
 devil's oven. 
 
 an angel of hope. To the earthquake and tornado-stricken people of 
 the South, she was an angel of relief ; and to the stricken, every- 
 where, whether by war, famine or pestilence, she was an angel of 
 Mercy; she has won the applause of nations and the admu-ation of 
 the world. In the midst of destitution, disease and death she has 
 borne the sacred emblem to the reUef of thousands, and no one has 
 a better right than she to exclaim, ' ' In hoc signo vinces ! " Let us 
 rejoice that she is an American woman, and, because of her grand 
 
THIS IS ONE OF THE FINEST BOATS 
 ON THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 
 ELEGANTLY FURNISHED WITH ALL 
 MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. WILL 
 CARRY COMFORTABLY 24 PEOPLE. 
 CAN BE CHARTERED BY THE DAY OR 
 SEASON ON REASONABLE TERMS. 
 HAVE FOR SALE THE 
 
 CELEBRATED ST. UWRESCE HtVEB SKIFFS, 
 
 OF MY OWN MAKE. I HAVE OVER 
 30 YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN BOAT- 
 BUILDING. CALL AND SEE MY 
 BOATS, IT IS NO TROUBLE TO SHOW 
 THEM. 
 
 Capt. JOHN H. DINGMAN, 
 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY, N. Y. 
 
The Rambler. 
 
 35 
 
 efforts in the cause of humanity, accord to her, that which she has 
 BO nobly won, our highest admiration and respect. 
 
 Then comes the summer camp of Rev. Royal Pullman, and " Hope- 
 well Hall," the property of W. C. Browning, of New York; " Castle 
 Rest " the minature of Ehrenbreitstein, one of the old castles on the 
 Rhine, and then, in succession, come: "Friendly," E. W. Dewey, 
 New York; "Nobby," H. R. Heath, New York; "St. Ehno," N. W. 
 Hunt, Brooklvn, N. Y. ; " Welcome," S. G. Pope, Ogdensburg, N. Y.; 
 "Felseneck," Prof. Hopkins, HamQton College; "Linlithgow," Mrs. 
 
 NOBBY ISIJA^nD. 
 
 Robert Livingston, New York; "Florence," H. S. Chandler, New 
 York; "Isle Imperial," Mr. Raflferty, Pittsburg, Pa. These are 
 among the Central, or Bay group, and now we swing to the wharf at 
 Alexandria Bay, with its elegant hotels — the Metropolis of the 
 Thousand Islands. 
 
 But we must on with our trip. As we swing out into the stream 
 and head away on our course, we leave " Bonny Castle," the property 
 of Mrs. J. G. Holland. This was the favorite summer home of that 
 gifted author and editor, Dr. James G. Holland, whose name is a 
 household word, and whose fame is world-wide, and whose death 
 
The Rambler. 37 
 
 was a national loss, because he was one of our most gifted authors. 
 To the world of letters his loss was irreparable. On our left is " Man- 
 hattan," thought by many to be the most beautiful island in the 
 river, owned by Judge J. C. Spencer, of New York; " St. John's," 
 Judge Clias. Donahue, of New York; " Fairyland," with its three 
 beautiful villas, belonging to the Messrs. Hayden, of Columbus, O., 
 and "Huguenot," the summer home of L. Hasbrouck, of Ogdens- 
 burg, N. Y. Down the main channel, at our right, is " Resort Is- 
 land," owned by W. J. Lewis, of Pittsburg, Pa., and along the main- 
 land are : " Long Branch," owned by Mrs. Clark, of Watertown, N. 
 Y. ; "Point Marguerite," the summer home of the late Edward 
 Anthony, of New York ; " The Ledges," C. J. Hudson, New York. 
 
 The Tweed Ring-. 
 
 Close on our right is " Deer Island," as it was once called, now 
 "Pine Island," "Old Picnic Island" and "Lotus Land." Pine 
 Island was at one time the summer resort of the famous "Tweed 
 Ring," of New York, away back in 1870. That was when the now 
 magnificent Crossmon House was only a plain country tavern, 
 though always a good one. Mrs. Crossmon, the honored mother of 
 the present genial proprietor, well remembers baking " Boston brown 
 bread " for them, and many citizens of Alexandria Bay remember 
 well the "high old jinks" held by the gang on their visits to the 
 river. Who was the gang ? Just glance at the list : The three first, 
 WiUiam M. Tweed, Hank Smith and William R. Stewart, were the 
 "bosses." They concocted the schemes, and the others carried them 
 into effect. Here was Foster Dewey, Tweed's private secretary; 
 Andrew J. Garvey, Cornelius Carson, Boss Tweed's confidential clerk; 
 Peter B. Sweeney and Dick Cornell, and then there was a lot of sub- 
 lieutenants besides. Up here, they styled themselves the " Medicus 
 Club," and " bad medicine" they were too, though judging from the 
 fact that they doctored New York city to the amount of $27,000,000^ 
 the name was very appropriate. 
 
 We now bear away to the right, leaving " Pine Island," " Old Pic- 
 nic" and " Lotus Land " on our right, and enter the " Friendly " or 
 "' Boundary Group." This is one of the loveliest scenes on the whole 
 river, and we sail through its very midst. Here are " Little Lehigh," 
 "Sport," "Idlewild," "Summerland" and "Arcadia" islands, on 
 
^5 
 
The Rambler. 
 
 39 
 
 which are the heautiful cottages of Messrs. W. A. , R. H. and E. P. Wil- 
 bur, all of Bethlehem, Pa.; Mrs. R. H. Eggleston, New York; S. A. 
 Briggs, of New York, and a group of Rochester families. You wUl 
 acknowledge that this view alone is worth taking the afternoon 
 ramble to see, and it is only one of the Thousand Island Steamboat 
 Company's boats, either the Islander or America, that can pass 
 
 through this group. ,. , , . ^ 
 
 On leaving it, we head away toward " Rockport," a little hamlet 
 on the Canadian mainland, passing on our starboard, or right-hand 
 side the head of " Geenadier " Island, with its red -capped Canadian 
 Light-house, "Little Grenadier," "Doctor" and "Star" islands. 
 The latter was formerly called " Tar" Island, but the addition of a 
 single letter has done wonders for it. Gen. Bradley Winslow, of 
 Watertown, N. Y., has a fine farm on Star Island. His elegant cot- 
 tage was burned in 1892. It is one of the most sightly and romantic 
 spots on the river. At our left is Westminster Park, a beautiful re- 
 sort at the foot of WeUesley Island, as the Thousand Island Park is 
 at its head, and at the foot of "Hill" Island, the charming villa, 
 with its tasteful surroundings, of D. F. Fairchild, of Leavenworth, 
 Kansas, classicaUy named Fairjoline. A ferry pUes hourly between 
 Westminster Park and Alexandria Bay, and from tliis point a narrow 
 passage leads into Lake "Waterloo," its outlet in fact, a trip to which, 
 as I have already advised, you should not fail to take. 
 
 On our right comes the little Canadian hamlet of Rockport, and on 
 our left is " Club Island " on which are the beautiful summer homes 
 of Mrs. F. Taylor, of New York, and Jacob A. Skinner, Esq., of 
 Newark, N. J Then comes "Echo Point." of which we will get 
 auricular demonstration, if the steam holds out. Just opposite us, 
 and about midway of this palisade of granite rock, is an Indian 
 painting, easily distinguishable from the deck of a smaUer boat that 
 can run close enough in. It represents a wild animal in the act of 
 leaping upon a warrior, though it would require a label to tell us 
 what species of animal was intended. 
 
 Through what scenes of nature's own loveUness we have just 
 passed ! They have been the theme of writers innumerable, and 
 poets have exhausted the power of song in their praise. It was here 
 that Tom Moore, in 1803, only a year previous to his death, was in- 
 spired by the goddess of song, which a few days later found vent in 
 that magnificent poem : 
 
POPULAR BAY AND HOTEL WESTMINSTER. 
 
The Rambler. 41 
 
 " Faintly as tolls the evening chime, 
 
 Our voices kept tune, and our oars keep time; 
 
 Soon as the woods on shore look dim 
 
 We'll sing at St. Ann's our parting hymn . 
 Row, brothers, row; the stream runs fast, 
 The rapids are near, and the daylight is pa3£. 
 
 " Why should we yet our sail unf m-1 ? 
 
 There is not a breath the blue wave to curl I 
 
 But when the wind blows off the shore, 
 
 Oh! Sweetly we'll rest on our weary oar. 
 
 E3W, brothers, row; the stream runs fast, 
 The rapids are near, and the daylight's past. 
 
 " Utawa's tide! This trembling moon 
 
 Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. 
 
 Saint of this green isle! Hear our prayer. 
 
 Oh! grant us cool heavens and favoring air. 
 Blow, breezes, blow; the stream runs fast, 
 The rapids are near, and the daylight is past." 
 
 But the most beautiful tribute to the Thousand Islands ever writ- 
 ten must be awarded to one of Canada's own poets, Joseph Octave 
 Cremazie. His poem was published in " Histoire de la Litt^rature 
 Canadienne," in 1850, and again in 18G0, by M. Larean, Vol. II, page 
 107. I can only find room for a translation of two stanzas : 
 
 ' • When Eve plucked Death from the Tree of Life, and brought 
 tears and sorrow upon the Earth, Adam was driven out into the 
 world to mourn with her, and taste of the bitter spring that we drink 
 from to-day. 
 
 "Then Angels on their wings bore the silent Eden to the Eternal 
 Spheres on high, and placed it in the Heavens — but in passing 
 through space, they dropped along the way, to mark their course, 
 some flowers from the Garden Divine. These flowers of changing 
 hue, falling into the Great Eiver, became the Thousand Islands — 
 the Paradise of the St. Lawrence." 
 
 Next comes the widely known " Lost Channel," and in justice to 
 one of the best pilots on the St. Lawrence river, the man who above 
 all others originated these " Island Rambles," Capt. Visgar, of Alex- 
 andria Bay, I must accord a generous meed of praise, because no 
 man better deserves it. 
 
 Early comprehending the fact that this group of islands, situated 
 comparatively near to Alexandria Bay, which was destined to be- 
 
1:2 
 
 The Rambler. 
 
 come the metropo- 
 lis of the Thousand 
 Islands, would at- 
 tract the attention 
 of large numbers of 
 visitors and tourists, 
 he began to turn his attention to the 
 means for gratifying their very laudable 
 curiosity, and scored a grand success. And 
 so, to Capt. Visgar alone belongs the honor 
 of having explored the different channels, and 
 led the way through the most intricate windings 
 of these delightful archipelagoes of the noble 
 St. Lawrence. 
 On one occasion, while passing through a difficult 
 channel below and a little to the right of the Fid- 
 dler's Elbow as we go down the river, a correspondent 
 of the New York Tribune, who was on board, called out : 
 "Captain! what is the name of this channel ? " Captain 
 Visgar, busy at the wheel, and fully occupied in seeing 
 that his boat passed safely through the difficult passage, and not car- 
 ing to be disturbed at a critical moment, answered: " This, sir, is the 
 Lost Channel." The reporter " took down " the answer, and in due 
 time the Tribune had a lurid description of the Thousand Islands, 
 and a thrilling account of the passage of the ' ' Lost Channel. " 
 
 Just there was where Captain Visgar " builded better than he 
 knew; " for while the "Lost Channel " became an object of curiosity 
 far and wide, and a trip through it something to be desired, not one 
 visitor out of a thousand was aware of the fact that it had a history 
 which went back a hundred and thirty-five years, and yet such is 
 the case. I will give it as briefly as possible, referring you to Major 
 Haddock's admirable Souvenir History of the Thousand Islands for a 
 more elaborate account. 
 
 History of the Lost Channel. 
 
 During the French and English war, which began in 1755 and 
 ended in 1760, an expedition was fitted out at Oawego, in August of 
 the latter year, for the final subjugation of the Canadas. The only 
 
The Rambler. 43 
 
 remaining strongholds of the French were Montreal, and a strong 
 fort on an island in the St. Lawrence river, about three miles below 
 the present city of Ogdensburg, known as Fort Levis, commanded 
 by a distinguished French officer — Capt. Pouchot. The expedition 
 consisted of 10,143 British regulars and Colonial troops from Massa- 
 chusetts, Connecticut, New York and New Jersey. Among the 
 Massachusetts troops was Israel Putnam, of Revolutionary fame, 
 then a lieutenant-colonel. In addition to these troops, there was a 
 force of about 1,000 Indians, under the command of Sir William 
 Johnson. The commander of the expedition was Gen. Jeffrey 
 Amherst, the second in command being Gen. Gage, of Boston fame. 
 At that time the English had two armed vessels on Lake Ontario, 
 the Onondaga and the MohawJc, commanded by Capt. John Loring, 
 as Admiral of the fleet, which consisted of the two vessels, 177 
 batteaux and 73 whale boats, besides staff boats, hospital boats, and 
 boats for sutler's use. The first detachment of troops sailed in the 
 two vessels, on the 7th of August, for the rendezvous at "Basin 
 Harbor," Grenadier Island, at the head of the St. Lawrence river. 
 On the 13th, the entire army were assembled on the island, and early 
 on the morning of the 14th the entire expedition set forth. Capt. 
 Loring, with the two vessels, had gone ahead, and instead of keeping 
 straight down the South channel, he crossed just below the foot of 
 Wolfe Island into the Canadian channel. The French had been 
 expecting an attack from this direction for a whole year; and, in 
 consequence, had kept a lookout on Carleton Island, from which 
 point they could readily see when the British forces entered the 
 river; and with swift war canoes they could easily convey the intel- 
 ligence to the fort below. When Capt. Loring had fairly entered 
 the Navy group, he was assailed on every hand. The islands seemed 
 to swarm with French and Indians, who were raking his decks with 
 musketry. To add to his discomfiture, he knew nothing of the 
 river nor of the labyrinth of islands in which he found himself; 
 but, lowering away a boat and crew, he sent them back to prevent 
 the Mohawk from entering the island group; and manning his guns, 
 he swept the islands around him with grape and cannister, as he 
 drifted with the current, he knew not whither. Fortunately, he got 
 safely clear of the islands, when, coming to an anchor, he sent two 
 other boats to find the first one sent out, but they returned unsuc- 
 cessful; nor could they even distinguish which of the channels was 
 the one in which the first boat was lowered. They never saw boat 
 
44 The Rambler. 
 
 nor crew again; and ever afterward, in speaking of it, they called it 
 the "Place of the Lost Channel." Two or three years later, the 
 crew of a batteau found a broken yawl boat bearing the name 
 " Onondaga," at the head of one of the channels, which, since that 
 time, has been known as the " Lost Channel," and which Capt. 
 Visgar so happily renamed. The probability is that the crew of the 
 yawl boat were killed and scalped by the Indians, and their boat 
 stove and sunk; and, after all, we have no absolute certainty that 
 this, more than any other of the numerous channels on every hand, 
 was the one in which Capt. Loring first lowered his yawl boat. All 
 that Capt. Loring's journal says about that part of it is the simple 
 statement that they " called it the place of the lost channel." 
 
 Next in order is the little island called " Fiddler's Elbow." Why 
 this island was so named is accounted for in two ways. One is, that 
 it used to be a great camping place for the crews of batteaux long 
 before the day of steamers on the river, and that usually there was 
 a fiddler among them who furnished music for their rude dances. 
 The other is that a shrewd old river pilot who used to bring his pas- 
 sengers to view this group of islands, took care to have a venerable 
 old fiddler, who lived in a shanty near by, always on hand and play- 
 ing for dear life when the boat passed. Then, again, the shape of 
 the island suggests the crook in a fiddler's elbow. You may suit 
 yourself as to the hypotheses. 
 
 Swinging to the left we pass " Ash Island" on our right and reach 
 ' ' Lyndock Light." Away to our left is " Boundary Channel," which 
 leads into " Lake Waterloo," or, as it is commonly known, the "Lake 
 of the Island," a place you should not fail to visit. Passing these 
 we head away through the Halstead Bay group; leaving " Anderson's 
 Camp" on our right and "Smoke Island" on our left, we enter 
 ' ' Halstead's Bay, " and direct our course for Gananoque. 
 
 The lower end of Halstead's Bay terminates in a long arm, which 
 extends for some distance inland. Here ai'e the "Indian Rocks" 
 and " Horseblock Point." On a precipice which forms a part of the 
 point, there was clearly visible only a few years ago some aboriginal 
 paintings, representing a hunting scene, but by whom painted no 
 one could tell; even the tribes which were here when the white man 
 first came, knew nothing of their origin. To-day but little is to be 
 seen of them, though under a favorable light it is said that the out- 
 lines are vet to be distinguished. 
 
The Rambler. 45 
 
 There is another way through this labyrinth of islands that is, if 
 possible, more interesting than this. It takes us nearer to the Cana- 
 dian shore, running close into ''Ivy's Mills," past ''Champagne 
 Point" and through a beautiful net- work of little islands, bringing 
 us out again at the head of the Lost Channel. The steamer 
 " Islander" sometimes makes a special trip through those channels, 
 and if the opportunity occurs, you should not fail to see that part of 
 the group, for the " Islander" is a superior boat, well officered. 
 
 On our left now is "Stone Island," "McDonald's" and "Sugar" 
 islands, and a beautiful group of smaU islands near the shore of 
 Grindstone Island. But we push on to Jackstraw light and prepare- 
 to stop at Gananoque. This is a busy manufacturing village and will 
 well repay a visit of some hours. I forgot to tell you that the large 
 group of islands, through which we have just passed, is called the 
 ' ' Navy " group, and that the group through which we are about to 
 pass is called the " Admiralty " group, and from the fact that the 
 Canadian islands are known by numbers instead of names, it is not 
 easy to designate them clearly; but so far as they have become pri- 
 vate property, they are named, and those, to some extent, we will 
 point out. 
 
 As we swing out from the wharf at Gananoque, Tidd's island, on 
 which is a lovely summer resort, is at our left, and to our right is 
 "Hog" island. At "Dorsdale," R. Forsyth, Esq., of Montreal, 
 spends his vacation; Rev. Prof. Mowat, of Queen's College, Kingston, 
 is at "Riverview," and Prof. Coleman, of Victoria College, Coburg, 
 Ont. , makes " "Weidenf eldt " his summer home ; Mr. Camp, of 
 Toronto, owns "Idlewild," and then conaes the cottages of C. E. 
 Britton, Esq., and Dr. A. N. Kincaid, both prominent citizens of 
 Gananoque. On our left, again, J. Findley, Esq., of Montreal, occu- 
 pies " Round Island," and on the right is the cottage of Rev. J. Allen, 
 of Coburg, Ont. Then comes "Sylvan Isle," J. L. Uphani, Esq., of 
 Brockville, Ont. 
 
 On our left the cottages, in succession, are: "Camp Iroquois," 
 Mr. Wallace, of Boston; " Roseneath ViUa," Jas. Richmond, Esq., 
 of Kingston; "Channel View," Jno.Turcotte, Esq.; "The Castle," 
 Prof. N. F. Dupuis, of Queens College ; on our right, " Burnt Island" 
 light, and on our left is " Boss Dick Island." The beautiful group, 
 through which we have just past, is Bostwick channel, one of the 
 finest among the island groups. 
 
The Rambler. 47 
 
 Station Island. 
 
 You have, no doubt, read that thrilling tale of Fenimore Cooper's, 
 " The Pathfinder." It so, you will remember the episode of 
 "Station Island," its description, how it was situated, and for 
 what purpose it was garrisoned. Cooper, in ' ' The Pathfinder," 
 makes no attempt to locate the island. He only relates some his- 
 torical facts connected with it, and gives us a minute description of 
 it. The time described was during the French and English war of 
 1755-60. At that time the English held Oswego, while the French 
 had control of the lakes with a strong fort at Frontenac, now Kings- 
 ton, and a detachment at Gananoque. The French received their 
 supplies from Montreal in batteaux which came up the river in de- 
 tachments, numbering ten or more batteaux each. The English kept 
 spies on the lookout for the arrival of these convoys of stores and 
 provisions with a view to their capture. To that end "Station 
 Island " had been fixed upon as a suitable place for a rendezvous 
 from which to waylay the expected fleet of batteaux. It was to 
 protect this fleet that a party of French and Indians had been sta- 
 tioned at Gananoque. 
 
 Now what are the historical facts ? First, the French posts were 
 supplied from Montreal by means of batteaux ; second, the British 
 troops attempted to, and did at various times, capture some of theses 
 batteaux with their stores ; third, that the British had some hiding 
 place among the islands, from which they sallied forth and made 
 their captures, if possible. Now it is evident that this very group 
 of islands would be the one chosen for such a hiding place for several 
 reasons. First, it was nearer Oswego; second, the chances of recap- 
 ture were lessened; third, the opportunity of watching the approach 
 of a fleet of batteaux unseen. If the hiding place had been chosen 
 in the Lower or Naval group, the chances of a recapture would have 
 been materially increased. Now how was "Station Island" situ- 
 ated ? So that a look-ont could be kept on the river below ; so that 
 the French post on the main land could be watched ; so that the 
 island itself could hardly be distinguished from those by which it 
 was surrounded. One island in this group fulfils the conditions, and 
 there is not another among all the Thousand Islands that does; and 
 hence the presumption that the island is here, and that it borders on 
 Bostwick channel. To one who is fond of exploration it will be a 
 
48 The Rambler. 
 
 half day's pleasure to search it out, and then if you fail to find it, ask 
 the guide on the steamer. During the war of 1812, Gananoque was 
 the scene of a daring assault on the part of a detachment of Ameri- 
 can troops from Sacket's Harbor, the particulars of which are as 
 follows : 
 
 ^Expedition Against Gananoque. 
 
 On the night of the 20th of September, 1812, Gen. Brown dispatched 
 Capt. Benjamin Forsyth with a force of ninety -five men, from Sack- 
 et's Harbor, with a view of capturing some ammunition, of which 
 his troops stood greatly in need. Capt. Forsyth and his men landed 
 at a point about two miles above the village, and at daylight began 
 their march on the place. When about half way they were met by 
 two horsemen, one of whom was shot, and the other escaped and 
 gave the alarm. A force of 110 men at once opposed the advance of 
 the Americans. Halting within a hundred yards of the English line 
 of battle, Capt. Forsyth ordered his men to fire a volley, and charge. 
 The order was obeyed, and the British were driven back with a loss 
 of several killed and wounded and a dozen prisoners. The spoils 
 were 3,000 ball cartridges, and forty-one muskets. Not having boats 
 to take them away, 150 barrels of provisions were burned, as also was 
 the King's Store. It was only the next year that the British had 
 their revenge out of Capt. Forsyth, for they whipped him badly at 
 Ogdensburg. 
 
 Swinging around toward the completion of our grand circle, we 
 reach the group of islands at the head of Grindstone Island. On our 
 right the largest of the group is " Hickory Island." It was on this 
 island that the so-called " Patriots" made a stand in the winter of 
 1837. They had collected a strong force, and were amply provisioned, 
 but without a leader, order or discipline, — simply a mob. On the 
 approach of a small force from Kingston, with a piece of light artil- 
 lery, they fled without firing a shot, leaving the most of their stores 
 behind. It was a perfect stampede ; and to use the language of an 
 eye witness : "I wouldn't wonder if some of them were running 
 yet." 
 
 On the left are "Coral" and "Club" islands, on the former of 
 which is the beautiful Japanese Villa, owned by Mr. C. Wolfe. Other 
 cottages are owned by Thomas Thatcher, Esq. , of Boston; Mrs. Moore, 
 Harry Morgan and Bryant Lindley, Esqs., all of New York. 
 
The Rambler. 
 
 49 
 
 We now head away for Clayton, passing through the Blanket 
 shoals, and leaving Bartlet's Point on our right, and "Governor" 
 and "Calumet" islands to our left, on the latter of which is the 
 elegant -palace-cottage belonging to Chas. G. Emory, Esq., of New 
 York. Bartlet's Point is now called "Prospect Park." It was first 
 named Bartlet's Point, because a man of that name settled there in 
 1801 and ran a ferry to Gananoque. It is said of him that he set his 
 house on fire and ran away by the light of it. Away yonder to 
 our right you see that a bridge spans the outlet of French creek, a con- 
 
 ONE OF THE FOLGER STEAMERS. 
 
 siderable stream that flows into the bay here; just above that bridge 
 once stood an Iroquois fort, or rather a Huron fort, which was cap- 
 tured from them by one of the Iroquois tribes — the Oneidas. That 
 must have been fully 200 years ago. The creek was called by the 
 Indians Weteringhea Guentere. But there was quite a skirmish there 
 in 1813, when the American troops under Gen. Brown, being the ad- 
 
50 The Rambler. 
 
 vance of that ill-fated expedition under Wilkinson, which was so 
 badly whipped by the British at Chrysler's farm only a few weeks 
 later, was attacked by a British force. The following is a brief his- 
 tory of the affair, which you can read at your leisure: 
 
 The Battle of French Creek. 
 
 Gen. Jacob Brown, commanding the advance of Gen. Wilkinson's 
 expedition, arrived at French Creek on the evening of October 30, 
 1813, and. on the next day crossed a part of his command to the 
 opposite shore, and awaited an expected attack. By his direction. 
 Capt. McPherson, of the U. S. Light Artillery, had erected a battery 
 on Bartlet's Point and mounted three long eighteen pounders. From 
 his elevated position, Capt. McPherson could command the entrance 
 to the bay and pretty effectually shell the entire peninsula on which 
 the village of Clayton now stands. 
 
 On the evening of November 1st, the attack was made by a fleet 
 of two schooners, two brigs, and several boats loaded with troops. 
 The first attempt was made upon Capt. McPherson's battery, but the 
 guns were so well served, and so accurate was their fire, that the 
 vessels were soon forced to drop down the river, beyond the range 
 of the battery. The next morning the attack was renewed. The 
 troops were landed on the peninsula, below where the village now 
 stands, and marched across to the attack. In the meantime, For- 
 syth's riflemen had been deployed in the woods as skirmishers, and 
 met the advancing troops with a galling fire, which threw them into 
 confusion. Simultaneously with the landing of the troops, the 
 vessels again attacked the battery on Bartlet's Point, but with less 
 success than at first. Three of them were so disabled in a few 
 minutes that they were glad to drift down the river and out of 
 range; and the fourth, deeming discretion the better part of valor, 
 withdrew. The troops, seeing their vessels disabled, made a pre- 
 cipitate retreat, and thus ended the battle of French Creek. 
 
 And now, dear Rambler, we have completed a circle of nearly if 
 not quite sixty miles in circumference, and arrived at our starting 
 point. The thing now to do is to round out the day by taking the 
 Search Light ramble to-night, a description of which you will find 
 in another place. 
 
The Rambler. 51 
 
 The Search Light. 
 
 For this trip we board the steamer St. Lawrence, for the reason 
 that it has the most powerful Search Light on the river, and was the 
 first to bring these fascinating trips into popular notice, and is be- 
 sides the largest steamer on the river that gives these Search Light 
 excursions on so grand a scale. There are other considerations, too, 
 which you will note as you go along, not the least of which is the 
 fact that the science of electricity has made these trips a nightly pos- 
 sibility, because of the element of absolute safety that it has brought 
 into play. Before the Search Light came, a night trip among the 
 river archipelagoes was an aflfair of moonlight. No pilot, however 
 skillful, cared to thread the tortuous channels in a moonless night. 
 Now, the situation is changed. A cool-headed captain and a careful 
 mate and skillful wheelsman, with an expert electrician, as the 
 steamer St. Lawrence always has, and barring accidents which no 
 man can foresee, a trip among the islands on a night of inky black- 
 ness is as safe as an easy chair at home. Skill and science united 
 have reduced danger to a mere nothing. 
 
 As before, we board the steamer at Alexandria Bay, and start up 
 the river. First on one shore and then on the other, the Search 
 Light sends a flood of radiance that illumines every spot it touches, 
 as with the glare of a noonday sun; camp and cottage, leafy covert 
 and rocky glen, all stand revealed. Here a flood of light reveals 
 happy groups on porch and balcony of hotel and cottage, and there 
 a leafy covert becomes a bower of brilliancy, while eerie shadows 
 dark as Erebus flee away into inky depths. It is a succession of 
 transformation scenes never equaled elsewhere. 
 
 Touching at all points on our way up the river, we stop for a 
 short time at Clayton and then head away across the river for the 
 passage^ between Grindstone Island on our left, and " Bobbins' " 
 Island on our right, known as " Robbins' Cut." All the way up the 
 river we have been greeted with rockets and red fire, and even now 
 they have not ceased. Passing "Calumet Island," on our left, we 
 approach a jolly camp on Grindstone Island, where cheers and fire- 
 works seem to spring forth spontaneously; and then on we go 
 through the long narrow channel, lighted alternately from side to 
 side, and out into the broad waters of " Eel Bay," passing "Point 
 Angier," "Elephant Rock," "Picnic" and "Squaw" Points on our 
 
52 The Rambler. 
 
 left, and then swinging off toward the lights in the "Grand View 
 Park " Hotel. A place, by the way, well worth a visit. On our 
 right as we speed along is a group of but little more than bare rocks, 
 known as "Robinson's" or "Indian" Islands. Should we be 
 signaled, we will stop a moment at Grand View Park, but if not we 
 head away for "Lyndock" Light at the entrance to the "Navy" 
 group and so down i^ast the "Fiddler's Elbow," on through the 
 group past Echo Point, past Rockport, and across through the Bay 
 Group and home to Alexandria Bay, in good time for bed, or for the 
 "hop "at the hotel; just as we feel inclined. Reader, our regular 
 rambles are ended, and now with your kind permission I will sug- 
 gest, without entering into any special description, a few 
 
 Other Trips. 
 
 I have already hinted that a trip to " Ivy's Mills," and among the 
 beautiful islands bordering that part of the mainla,nd, is a very de- 
 sirable one. It is true that, as yet, no regular trip has been estab- 
 lished through this part of the Navy Group, but the time is not far 
 distant when the demands of sightseers will be complied with and 
 new ramble routes opened, and, among them all, this divergence 
 from the present route will be very popular because of its beauty. 
 
 The trip through " Boundary Channel," and to "Waterloo Lake," 
 should not be forgotten, especially the latter. Until the steamboat 
 companies provide for a regular trip to these places, you can always 
 charter a small steam yacht, with a competent pilot, to explore 
 them. The better plan is to make up a jDarty; and in this way the 
 cost of the trip is not great, and if a fine day be chosen, it cannot 
 fail to be one of great pleasure. 
 
 Another pleasant side trip is to " Goose Bay," and the beautiful 
 island group — " Dinkelspiel" — at its entrance. " Cranberry Creek," 
 which was the scene of quite a sharp skirmish during the war of 
 1812, flows into Goose Bay. I give you a brief sketch of the affair, 
 hoping that it may not be entirely devoid of interest. 
 
 Battle of Cranberry Creek. 
 
 This was one of the most stirring affairs that took place among the 
 Thousand Islands during the war of 1812-14; and seems to be the 
 only case on record where a deputy collector of a port exercised 
 the authority to grant letters of marque; but such is the fact in this 
 
The Rambler. 53 
 
 case, and whether there are other instauces of a lite nature remains 
 to be seen. 
 
 Be that as it may, on the 14th of July, 1813, two armed boats, the 
 Fox and Neptune, the latter a private craft, armed with one 6-pounder 
 and a swivel, the former a government boat, left Sacket's Harbor 
 under letters of marque, issued by the deputy collector of the dis- 
 trict. The Neptune was manned by twenty-four volunteers, under 
 the command of Capt. Samuel Dixon, and the Fox, commanded by 
 Capt. Dimmock, by twenty-one men of the Twenty-first Infantry, 
 under Lieutenants Burbank and Perry, and a detachment of the 
 Forsyth Rifles, under Lieut. Hawkins and Sergt. James. 
 
 The expedition was fitted out by Marinus W. Gilbert, of Water- 
 town, with the object of cutting off a detachment of the enemy's 
 boats, which were expected to arrive up the river about this time, 
 laden with stores. The two boats touched at Cape Vincent on their 
 way down the river, and made a short halt at French Creek, now 
 Clayton, and then pushed on to Cranberry Creek, where they held a 
 review, put their boats ih complete order, examined and cleaned 
 their arms, and then sent forward an express to Ogdensburg for in- 
 telligence. At five o'clock in the afternoon of the second day the 
 looked-for intelligence came, and at nine o'clock that night the two 
 boats left the creek and pulled across the river into the Canadian 
 channel, and at four o'clock in the morning they discovered a brig- 
 ade of the enemy's batteaux lying at "Simmon's Landing," under 
 the protection of His Majesty's gunboat Spitfire, just ready to pro- 
 ceed to Kingston. 
 
 Pushing rapidly to the shore. Lieutenant Perry with Sergeant 
 James and twenty-seven men landed to cut off their retreat, while 
 Captain Dixon, with Lieutenant Burbank and the remainder of the 
 men took possession of the batteaux and gunboat. So complete was 
 the surprise, that the fifteen batteaux and the gunboat with their 
 crews, were captured without a single shot being fired on either 
 side, and by nine o'clock in the morning they were safe in Cranberry 
 Creek again, and Lieutenant Burbank started at once for Sacket's 
 Harbor, with a detachment of fifteen men and sixty-nine prisoners. 
 
 In the meantime news had reached Kingston and a force was sent 
 to recapture the gunboat and batteaux, consisting of four gunboats, 
 and the Earl of Moira, an eighteen -gun brig; and on the morning 
 of the 21st, just as the rising sun tipped with gold the island sum- 
 
5i The Rambler. 
 
 mits, the four gunboats manned with 250 men were discovered 
 entering Goose Bay and making their way to the mouth of the creek. 
 
 Thirty men met them and gallantly disputed their landing, while 
 twenty more took up a position from which they could successfully 
 dispute their further advance; and in the meantime the six-pounder 
 opened a rapid and galling fire which seriously disabled two of the 
 British gunboats, the crews turning their attention to plugging the 
 shot-holes in them. In a short time the enemy retired to the boats 
 and after pulling beyond gunshot, sent in a flag of truce demanding 
 a surrender to " stop the effusion of blood," which was answered by 
 an advance of our men, and reopening the fire on the gunboats, 
 when they hurriedly retreated, and the battle of Cranberry Creek 
 was over. The casualties on our side were two men killed and one 
 wounded, w^hile the British loss is, by their own authorities admitted 
 to have been twelve killed and sevei'al wounded, besides the loss of 
 Captain Milnes, a gallant officer, and aid-de-camp to the " Commander 
 of the Forces." 
 
 The capture was of great value, but owing to the fact that some of 
 the batteaux were hurriedly sunk without oi'ders, it proved to be an 
 unprofitable expedition to its promoters. The lading of the batteaux 
 consisted of 270 barrels of pork and 270 bags of hard bread, most 
 of which were scattered and wasted in some way; at all events they 
 failed to reach Sacket's Harbor, although the expedition returned 
 safely, meeting its only mishap when rounding Tibbett's Point; it 
 was fired upon by the Earl of Moira, and though someVf the boats 
 were struck by her shot, they all escaped. 
 
 There is another pleasant trip to be taken, which leads us down 
 along the American shore and through a fine group of islands in 
 "Chippewa Bay," the largest of which is "Oak" Island, formerly 
 known as "Indian Hut " Island. As long ago as when Count Fron- 
 tenac was the commander of the French forces in Canada, an Indian, 
 familiarly known as the Quaker, because of his peaceful proclivities, 
 obtained a grant from the count, of this island; and with a number 
 of families of his tribe, made a considerable settlement upon it. He 
 had been much among the French and was extremely fond of imi- 
 tating their courtly manners, though his efforts to do so were, at 
 times, extremely ludicrous. He affected all the airs and graces of 
 Count Frontenac himself, and regarded the Indian settlers on his island 
 in the light of subjects over whom he exercised a mild sovereignty. 
 
The Rambler. 55 
 
 His aboriginal lordship was too fond of the " fire-water," however, 
 and so he sold his domain one day for a jug of rum, but he retained 
 a life lease, and continued to play the sovereign until King Death 
 preferred his claim and ended the lease. There are beautiful cot- 
 tages on some of these islands, and more will be erected in the near 
 future. The little hamlet of Chippewa Bay was visited by a British 
 force from Canada during the war of 1813, but it retired without do- 
 ing any great damage. This part of the Thousand Islands is well 
 worth seeing, and though as yet none of the steamboat managers 
 have rhade any special provision for visitors to travel this route, it is 
 one that ere long the traveling public will demand to see, and then 
 it will not belong before the means are provided. 
 
 From Chippewa Bay, we steam directly across the river, passing 
 over the scene of a naval engagement in 1813, between the American 
 schooner Julia, and the British schooner Earl, in which the 
 Julia got the worst of it and fled to Ogdensburg. It was on the 
 same spot, also, that the Bi'itish, under General Amherst, in 1760, 
 captured a French brig. On our way, we pass Cedar, Dark and 
 Corn Islands, and a beautiful group named respectively. Pearl, 
 Cherry, Narrow, Little, Suma, and Tent Islands. Close to the 
 Canadian shore is Chimney Island, on which at one time there were 
 fortifications; probably during the War of 1812. Turning up stream 
 we pass inside of ' ' Grenadier " Island, and find hidden away there 
 another beautiful cluster of islands, the principal ones of which are 
 Pooles, Senecals, and O'Neils. It is along this shore that a writer 
 has laid the scene of an interesting tale, entitled the "Witch of 
 Plum Hollow," founded on an old legend of the vicinity. Passing 
 out into the main channel at the head of Grenadier Island, we steam 
 away for Alexandria Bay, having had one of the most enjoyable 
 trips on the river. 
 
 Fort Haldiniand. 
 
 The ruins of this very elaborate fortification are situated on a bluff 
 at the head of Carleton Island, about eleven miles above Clayton, 
 and in the middle of the American Channel. This fort was erected 
 by the British. It was begun in 1778, the next year after the sur- 
 render of Burgoyne at Saratoga. For some years, it was the most 
 important military and naval station on the St. Lawrence river, or 
 on the lakes even, above Montreal. There are some of the old bar- 
 
56 The Rambler. 
 
 rack chimnies yet standing, and the earth- works are very distinct, 
 while the ditch, which was cut in the limestone rock, is the same as 
 ever. The outer parapet and glacis have been much damaged by 
 the removal of the stone of which they were built. The places of the 
 garrison well, the magazines, the bastions and salients are distinct and 
 easily located. This island played an important part in the war of 
 the Revolution. Here was the home of the noted Thayendanegea, 
 alias Joseph Brandt, the chief of the Six Nations. It was from this 
 island that the expeditions against Wyoming, Cherry Valley, and 
 Fort Edward, bloody massacres all, were sent out. The -fort was 
 built after the plans of Lieut. Twiss, Burgoyne's chief engineer, 
 who afterward became Lieutenant-Gen eral Twiss, the greatest mili- 
 tary engineer Great Britain ever had; and by him the fortification 
 was named Fort Haldimand, in honor of Gen. Sir Frederick Haldi- 
 mand, under whose orders the fort was built, and who at that time 
 was commander-in-chief of His Majesty's forces in Canada. At the 
 same time, the name of the island was changed from " Deer" Island 
 to " Carleton" Island, in honor of Sir Guy Carleton, afterward Lord 
 Dorchester. Under the cliff on which the ruins of the old fort are 
 situated is a beautiful peninsula with a lovely bay on either hand. 
 During the British occupation this was called " Government Point;" 
 and was given up to the use exclusively of the naval officers and 
 artificers. 'There was a large shipyard on the Point, and many ves- 
 sels of war and gunboats were built there. > 
 
 Now, the "Government Point" of those days is- occupied by the 
 grounds of the Utica Club and several private cottages, one of which, 
 Capt. Wyckoff's, of the firm of Wyckoff, Seamans & Benedict, of 
 New York, is one of the finest and costliest on the river. It is up 
 here, too, where the best black-bass fishing in the world is to be had. 
 
 Kingston. 
 
 Of course you will not fail to board that most magnificent of river 
 steamers the "Empire State," for a visit to Kingston, the Fort 
 Frontenac of the French. There are many places of interest in 
 Kingston well worth a visit. To an American, unacquainted with 
 Canadian cities, Kingston has a series of surprises in store, and a day 
 or two may be profitably spent there. Fort Henry, the Military Col- 
 lege, the Artillery Barracks, on the site of Old Fort Frontenac, the 
 Cathedral, the Dominion Penitentiary, the Insane Asylum, and a 
 
The Rambler. 
 
 51 
 
 round trip on the Electric Railway — which last enables you to see the 
 niost in the least time — are among the interesting points to be visited, 
 and if your stay is limited, take the Electric Railway trip by all 
 means ; because it describes a complete circle through all the best 
 portions of the city 
 
 Special Trips. 
 
 Several times, during the season, one or another of the elegant 
 steamers of the Thousand Island Steamboat Company, will make a 
 special excursion to Morrisburg, a quaint but pleasant Canadian 
 
 THE DITCH AT FOET HALDIMAND. 
 
 town, about twenty miles below Ogdensburg. During this trip tTje 
 steamer i'uns the " Galloup Rapid" and the " Rapide du Plat." Be- 
 low Ogdensburg, and on the opposite side of the river, is the Old 
 Windmill, made famous during the so-called Patriot war of '37, 
 though why called "Patriot" does not appear so cleai'ly, and still 
 lower down is " Chimney Island," on which are the remains of Fort 
 Levis, the last stronghold of the French on the St. Lawrence, and 
 taken by Gen. Jeffrey Lord Amherst in 1760. You will find this a 
 very interesting excursion and one you cannot afford to miss. 
 
58 The Rambler. 
 
 " Picton, " and the " Lake on the Mountain." 
 
 This is another special trip afforded by the Thousand Island Steam- 
 boat Company several times during the season. Not only does the 
 tourist, on this trip, experience the pleasure of viewing the delight- 
 fully romantic scenery of the " Bay of Quinte," and a visit to one of 
 its pleasantest villages, but he vpill have the pleasure of inspecting 
 one of the greatest natural phenomena knovs^n to this or any other 
 country. The " Lake on the Mountain " has attracted the attention 
 of scientists from every part of the civilized world. It is a huge 
 spring, widening out to the dimensions of a pond, situated upon the 
 summit of a ridge which lies between Lake Ontario and "Bay de 
 Quinte," and more than a hundred feet above either. I have not 
 the exact figures within reach, but my impression is that the ' ' Lake " 
 is over 150 feet higher than the level of Lake Ontario. Be that as it 
 may, it furnishes a constant supply of water sufficient to propel a 
 large amount of machinery, and never fails. It is really worth a 
 visit for itself alone, without the other jjleasant features of the trip 
 as an accompaniment. 
 
 I might suggest other special trips to you, but they would take me 
 beyond the original scope of this booklet. In describing to you the 
 trips among the Islands, it is very probable that I have made some 
 errors, either of omission or commission ; and if it be so, it is really 
 not to be wondered at, because I have written almost entirely from 
 memory. Then, too, new places are springing up; new cottages 
 are in process of erection every summer, and new names are 
 adopted ; so that what may be correct this season, may be wrong 
 the next. However, what ia wrong in this edition will be gladly 
 set right in the next, for we expect to keep pace with the times 
 and seasons. 
 
 Li'Envoi. 
 
 And now, dear Rambler, we have spent some pleasant hours in our 
 excursions together, and I hope we may spend many more ; and 
 when toward life's close we look back to the many enjoyments 
 experienced among the beautiful scenery of the Thousand Islands, 
 let us hope that not a single regret will cast its shadow across the 
 bright retrospect. To me, these rambles are always pleasant, and 
 if I have added a mite to the sum total of your enjoyment, I am con- 
 tent. Au revoir ! 
 
The Rambler. 59 
 
 Island Directory. 
 
 The following is a late revised list of islands and points, with their 
 owners' names, from Clayton to Goose Bay, on the American side: 
 
 Cement Point, head of Grindstone Island, owned by W. F. Ford 
 and others. 
 
 Goose Island, two acres, owned by E. S. Brooks, Brooklyn. 
 
 Hen Island, one-half acre, owned by W. F. Morgan, New York. 
 
 Davitts' Island, one-quarter acre, owned by H. G. Davitts, New 
 York. 
 
 Carroll Island, two acres, owned by Jas. A. Cheney, Syracuse. 
 
 Boscobel Island, one-half acre, owned by G. S. Hopkins, Kansas. 
 
 Bluff Island, tw^enty acres, owned by E. B. Washburn, New York. 
 
 Clinton Islar(,d, No. 1, fifteen acres, owned by N. S. Seely, New York. 
 
 Clinton Island, No. 2, three acres, owned by N. S. Seely, New York. 
 
 Governor's Island, owned by Chas. G. Emery, New York. 
 
 Calumet, owned by Chas. G. Emery, New York. 
 
 Etheridge, head of Round Island, owned by Dr. Geo. D. Whalen, 
 Syracuse. 
 
 Shady Ledge, foot of Round Island, owned by Frank R. Taylor, 
 Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Brooklyn Heights, foot of Round Island, ownad by C. S. Johnson, 
 Brooklyn. 
 
 Long Rock, one acre, owned by W. F. Wilson, Watertown. 
 
 Hemlock Island, twenty acres, owned by W. F. Porter and W. F. 
 Wilson, Watertown. 
 
 Stewart, or Jeffers, Island, ten acres, owned by E. P. Gardiner and 
 twelve others, Syracuse, and other places. 
 
 Two in Eel Bay, two acres, owned by Dr. E. L. Sargent, Watertown. 
 
 Twin Islands, one acre, owned by J. L. Huntington, Theresa. 
 
 Watch Island, one acre, owned by S. F. Skinner, New York. 
 
 Occident and Orient, three acres, owned by E. N. Robinson, New 
 York. 
 
 Isle of Pines, two acres, owned by Mrs. E. N. Robinson, New York. 
 
 Frederick Island, two acres, owned by C. L. Frederick, Carthage. 
 
 Bay Side, one acre, owned by H. F. Mosher, Watertown. 
 
 Riverside, mainland, one acre, owned by J. C. Lee, Gouverneur. 
 
 Killain Point, mainland, one acre, owned by Mr. Killian, Lockport, 
 N. Y. 
 
60 ■ The Rambler. 
 
 Holloway Point, mainland, one acre, owned -by N. Holloway, 
 Omar, N. Y. 
 
 Fisher's Landing, mainland, two acres, owned by Mrs. R. Gunn, 
 Omar, N. Y. 
 
 Island Home, one acre,, owned by Mrs. S. D. Hungerfoi'd, Adams, 
 N. Y. 
 
 Harmony, one-quarter acre, owned by Mrs. Burger, Syracuse. 
 
 Waving Branches, on Wells' Island, owned by D. C. Graham and 
 nine others. 
 
 Bonnie Eyrie, on Wells' Island, owned by Mrs. Peck, Boonville, 
 N. Y. 
 
 Throop's Dock, on Wells' Island, owned by Drs. C. E. and D. S. J. 
 Latimer, New York. 
 
 Jolly Oaks, on Wells' Island, twenty acres, owned by Prof. A, H. 
 Brown and four others. 
 
 Blanch Island, ten acres, owned by Mrs. A. M. Kenyon, Water- 
 town. 
 
 Josephine, twenty acres, owned by Mrs. A. M. Kenyon, Water- 
 town. 
 
 Craig Side, Wells' Island, owned by H. A. Laughlin, Pittsburg, Pa. 
 
 Covert Point, Wells' Island, owned by B. J. Maycock, Buffalo. 
 
 Calumet Island, one-half acre, owned by Oliver H. Green, Boston. 
 
 Van Patten, one acre, owned by Gen. J. B. Van Patten, Claverack, 
 N. Y. 
 
 Point Vivian, mainland, ten acres, owned by R. Toyer and ten others. 
 
 Lindress, one acre, owned by John Lindress, Jersey City. 
 
 Isle Royal, one acre, owned by R. E. Deane, New York. 
 
 Cedar Island, one acre, owned by J. M. Curtis, Cleveland, O. 
 
 Wild Rose, one acre, owned by Hon. W. G. Rose, Cleveland, O. 
 
 Alleghany Point, mainland, one acre, owned by J. S. Laney, Pa 
 
 Plato, two acres, owned by H. R. Heath, Brooklyn. 
 
 Seven Isles, five acres, owned by Gen. Bradley Winslow, Water 
 town. 
 
 Louisiana Point, Well's Island, three acres, owned by Hon. D. C 
 Labatt, New Orleans. 
 
 Bella Vista Lodge, mainland, five acres, Wm. Chisholm, Cleve 
 land, O. 
 
 Neh Mahbin Island, two acres, owned by James H. Oliphant 
 Brooklyn. 
 
The Rambler. 61 
 
 Comfort Island, two acres, owned by A. E. Clark, Chicago. 
 
 Warner's Island, one acre, owned by Mrs. H. H. Warner, Rochester. 
 
 Wanwinet Island, one-half acre, owned by C. E. Hill, Chicago. 
 
 Kewaydin, owned by J. W. Jackson, Plainfield, N. J. 
 
 Cuba, one acre, owned by M. Chauncey , Brooklyn. 
 
 Devil's Oven, one acre, owned by H. R. Heath, Brooklyn. 
 
 Sunny side. Cherry Island, five acres. Rev. George Rockwell, Tarry- 
 town. 
 
 Melrose Lodge, Cherry Island, owned by A. B. Pullman estate, 
 Chicago. 
 
 Ingieside, Cherry Island, owned by Mrs. G. B. Marsh, Cliicago. 
 
 Stuyvesant Lodge, Cherry Island, owned by J. T. Easton, Brooklyn. 
 
 Safe Point, Wells' Island, four acres. Rev. R. H. Pullman, Balti- 
 more. 
 
 Pullman Island, three acres, owned by Geo. M. Pullman, Chicago. 
 
 Nobby Island, three acres, owned by H. R. Heath, Brooklyn. 
 
 Little Angel, one-quarter acre, owned by W. A. Angell, Chicago. 
 
 Edgewood Park, thirty acres, owned by S. W. Sessions, Cleve- 
 land, O. 
 
 Edgewood Point, one acre, owned by G. C. Martin, Watertown. 
 
 West View, one acre, owned by S. G. Pope, Ogdensburg. 
 
 Welcome, one acre, owned by S. G. Pope, Ogdensburg. 
 
 Friendly Island, three acres, owned by E. W. Dewey, New York. 
 
 Linlithgow, one-half acre, owned by Mrs. R. A. Livingston, New 
 York. 
 
 Florence, two acres, owned by H. S. Chandler, New York. 
 
 St. Elmo, three acres, owned by N. W. Hunt, Brooklyn. 
 
 Felseneck, owned by Prof. A. G. Hopkins, Clinton, N. Y. 
 
 Point Lookout, one acre, owned by Miss S. J. Bullock, Adams. 
 
 Vilula Point, one-half acre, owned by Capt. F. Dana. 
 
 Isle Imperial, one acre, owned by G. T. Rafferty, Pittsburg. 
 
 Fern Island, one acre, owned by J. Winslow, Watertown. 
 
 Hart's Island, five acres, owned by E. K. Hart's estate, Albion, 
 N. Y. 
 
 Deshler, fifteen acres, owned by W. G. Deshler. Columbus, O. 
 
 Netts, one acre, owned by Wm. B. Hayden, Columbus, O. 
 
 Bonny Castle, fifteen acres, owned by Mrs. J. G. Holland, New 
 York. 
 
 Crescent Cottage, ten acres, owned by B. Van Wagoner, New York. 
 
62 The Rambler. 
 
 Point Marguerite, thirty acres, owned by Mrs. E. Anthony, New 
 York. 
 
 The Ledges, owned by Mrs. C. J. Hudson, New York. 
 
 Long Branch, ten acres, owned by Mrs. C. E, Clark, Watertown. 
 
 Manhattan Island, five acres, owned by Hon. J. C. Spencer, New 
 York. 
 
 Maple Island, six acrea, owned by John L. Hasbrouck, New York. 
 
 St. John Island, six acres, owned by Hon. Charles O'Donohue, 
 New York. 
 
 Fairyland Island, twenty acres, owned by Charles and William B. 
 Hayden, Columbus, O. 
 
 Little Fraud Island, one-half acre, owned by R. H. Pease, New 
 York. 
 
 Huguenot Island, two acres, owned by L. Hasbrouck, Ogdensburg. 
 
 Resort Island, three acres, owned by W. J. Lewis, Pittsburg. 
 
 Deer Island, twenty acres, owned by Geo. D. Miller, New York. 
 
 Island Mary, two acres, owned by Geo. A. Lance, Watertown. 
 
 Walton Island, seven acres, owned by N. J. Robinson, New York. 
 
 Idlewild, four acres, owned by Mrs. R. A. Packer, Sayre, Pa. 
 
 Sport Island, four acres, owned by E. P. Wilbur, Mauch Chunk, Pa. 
 
 Little Lehigh, one acre, owned by R. H. Wilbur, Bethlehem, Pa. 
 
 Summer Side, two acres, owned by W. Stevenson, Sayre, Pa. 
 
 Summerland, ten acres, owned by Summerland Association, Roch- 
 ester. 
 
 Arcadia and Ina Islands, five acres, owned by S. A. Briggs, New 
 York. 
 
 Spuyten Duyvel, one acre, owned by Alice P. Sargent, New York. 
 
 Douglass, five acres, owned by Douglas Miller, New York. 
 
 Kit Grafton, one-half acre, owned by Mrs. S. L. George,Watertown. 
 
 Lookout, two acres, owned by Thos. H. Bordin, New York. 
 
 Ella, one-half acre, owned by R. E. Hungerford, Watertown. 
 
 Little Charm, one quarter acre, owned by Mrs. F. W. Barker, 
 Alexandria Bay. 
 
 Frost, two acres, owned by Mrs. S. L. Frost, Watertown. 
 
 Excelsior Group, five acres, owned by C. S. Goodwin, New York. 
 
 Sylvan and Moss Islands, three acres, owned by S. T. Woolworth, 
 Watertown. 
 
 Elephant Rock, one-quarter acre, owned by T. C. Chittenden, 
 Watertown. 
 
The Rambler. 63 
 
 Sunbeam Group, one acre, owned by A. B. Phelan. 
 Alice, two acres, owned by Col. A. J. Casse, New York. 
 Schooner, six acres, owned by J. N. Whitehouse, New York. 
 
 List of Post-offlces Among the Thousand Islands, dur- 
 ing the Season. 
 
 Thurso; Grindstone Island. 
 
 Clayton. 
 
 Round Island (summer only). 
 
 Grinnell's (summer only). 
 
 Thousand Island Park. 
 
 Fisher's Landing. 
 
 St. Lawrence Park (summer only). 
 
 Point Vivian (summer only). 
 
 Westminster Park (summer only). 
 
 Alexandria Bay. 
 
 Grand View Park (summer only). 
 
 Table of distances from Alexandria Bay. 
 
 To Montreal 148 miles To Riverview 20 miles 
 
 To Ogdensburg 36 " To Carleton Island ... 33 
 
 ToMorristown 24 " To Cape Vincent.. ... 28 
 
 To Brockville 24 " To Gananoque 19 
 
 To Kingston . 34 
 
 To Chippewa Bay. . . . 
 
 12 
 
 To Point Vivian 
 
 2 
 
 To St. Lawrence Park 
 
 3 
 
 To Fine View 
 
 6 
 
 ToT. L Park 
 
 7 
 
 To Fishers' Landing. . 
 
 7 
 
 To Pullman House . . . 
 
 n 
 
 To Grand View Park 
 
 12 
 
 To Round Island . ... 
 
 10 
 
 To Clayton 
 
 12 
 
 To Prospect Park 
 
 12 
 
 To New York 356 
 
 To Boston 839 
 
 To Philadelphia 447 
 
 To Saratoga 239 
 
 To Chicago 812 
 
 To Niagara FaUs ..... 298 
 
 To Toronto 185 
 
 To Syracuse 123 
 
 To Utica 119 
 
 To Rochester 213 
 
64 The Rambler. 
 
 A few "Doii'ts" for Excursionists. 
 
 Don't be in too great a hurry, you will get along easier. 
 
 Don't rush to get on board the steamer until the passengers are 
 off, and then you can get on board without rushing. 
 
 Don't push, and jam, and crowd, either in going ashore or aboard ; 
 you only hinder and delay. 
 
 Don't stop to gossip on the gang-plank, it blocks the passage and 
 delays others. 
 
 Don't act as though you thought that other people had no rights 
 which you were bound to respect. 
 
 Don't act as though you belong to the genus Sus, lest people 
 believe it. 
 
 Don't crowd to the forward j)art of the boat ; the after part passes 
 the same objects of interest. 
 
 Don't stand up, so that those back of you can see nothing — it is 
 extremely ill mannered. 
 
 Don't try to gather in all the easy chairs just for your party — it 
 looks selfish. 
 
 Don't be continually grumbling, you annoy others and do yourself 
 no good. 
 
 Don't be too critical about the running of the boat ; in all proba- 
 bility, those who have charge of it are as well informed in regard to 
 their business as you are. 
 
 Don't berate an employe, because of some fault you think the 
 company has committed — it is inconsistent. 
 
 Don't fail to treat others with that consideration with which you 
 would like to have them treat you, and then all will go well. 
 
 You have often heard it said that such a one " could be a gentle- 
 man, if he chose ; " you may rest assured that if any one can be a 
 gentleman (or lady) he or she is pretty certain to be one; so, when on 
 an excursion don't be anything else, lest people thinking that you 
 can be but ivill not ; attribute your actions to pure and unadulterated 
 "cussedness," and treat you accordingly. 
 
The Rambler. ^ 65 
 
 Canada's West Point. 
 
 With a frontier extending across a continent, bordering on a na- 
 tion from which several hostile raids on behalf of " Irish Independ- 
 ence " have taken place, and v^dth a half breed and Indian population 
 in her own northwest, which has on two occasions broken out into 
 open rebellion, Canada finds it necessary to maintain the nucleus of 
 a military force, which shall be available on short notice to defend 
 her frontier or to put down rebellion. She cannot afford to main- 
 tain a standing army, but she has three batteries of artillery on per- 
 manent service, and a cavalry school, four infantry schools, and one 
 mounted-infantry school, at which the ofiicers and non-commissioned 
 officers of the Volunteer Militia may receive such a training as will 
 fit them to take command and give instruction to the volunteers, 
 who, taken from the field or workshop, would otherwise be wholly 
 untrained and undisciplined.' 
 
 But while her volunteers have given a good account of themselves 
 when occasion called them into active service, and while her schools 
 of military instruction have been the means of placing good officers 
 at their head, it was felt that something more was needed to com- 
 plete the system, and accordingly the Parliament of Canada, in 1874, 
 passed an act authorizing the establishment of a Royal Military Col- 
 lege "for the purpose," as the act states, "of imparting a complete 
 education in all branches of military tactics, fortification, engineer- 
 ing and general scientific knowledge in subjects connected with and 
 necessary to a thorough knowledge of the military profession, and 
 for qualifying officers for command and for staff appointments." 
 
 In selecting a site for the college the government naturally turned 
 its eyes to three places which were specially adapted for the purpose 
 by virtue of their historical associations and the possession of ex,- 
 tensive fortifications which might be utilized for technical training. 
 These were Halifax, Quebec and Kingston. The latter was ulti- 
 mately chosen, for, in addition to being the most central, it possessed 
 certain buildings which could be utilized. 
 
 After the conquest of Canada, Kingston, the site of Fort Frontenac, 
 built in 1673 by the French commander, after whom it was named, 
 became a military post of great importance. During the war of 1813 
 it was the British naval station for the lakes. A dockyard was es- 
 tablished on a low pi'omonitory which juts out between the Cataraqui 
 
66 The Rambler. 
 
 river and a small inlet of the St. Lawrence called Navy Bay. At this 
 dockyard Sir James Yeo built his fleet for Lake Ontario. After the 
 war the dockyard was dismantled, but a large three-story stone 
 building remained, known as the Stone Frigate, which had been occu- 
 pied by the marines. This, with a large blacksmith shop close by, 
 was utilized for the college. [See buildings at left center of picture.] 
 
 In 1876. the first classes were opened, eighteen cadets being admit- 
 ted. The staff consisted of a commandant, a captain and three pro- 
 fessors. As the classes grew, more accommodation was required, 
 and a large building, of the grey limestone for which Kingston is 
 famous, was added. It contains offices, reading and me«s-rooms, 
 library, class-rooms, laboratory, hospital, and kitchen. The Stone 
 Frigate became a dormitory, and the blacksmith shop was converted 
 into a well-equipped gymnasium. 
 
 The main building faces a spacious parade ground, with tennis 
 lawn and cricket ground, and opposite, on the point, is Fort Freder- 
 ick, a battery which guards the entrance to the harbor, with a mar- 
 tello tower at its apex. 
 
 Though modeled after Woolwich, the college is intended to give 
 the cadets a training which will fit them for civil as well as military 
 life. The course, which is four years, though jjrovision is made for 
 a two years' course in certain subjects, embraces English, French, 
 drawing, mathematics and mechanics, engineering, surveying, forti- 
 fication, architecture, astronomy, chemistry, geology, mineralogy, 
 physics, electricity, tactics and strategy, signaling, military law and 
 administration, military drill, gymnastics, fencing, swimming and 
 riding. A few of these subjects are voluntary, but most of them 
 are obligatory, A rigorous examination has to be passed by candi- 
 dates for entrance, and if more reach the minimum than can be ad- 
 mitted — two from each of the twelve military districts into which 
 Canada is divided — those who make the highest number of marks 
 are given the preference. The age of admission is from fifteen to 
 nineteen. 
 
 The military staff consists of a commandant, staff adjutant and 
 seven professors and instructors, four of whom are graduates of the 
 college, and two of the latter bold commissions in the regular army. 
 Five of the staff are officers of the active list of the imperial army, 
 lent to the college for a five years' term, at the close of which they 
 are required to rejoin their command. Two are officers of the re- 
 
The Rambler, 67 
 
 tired list. There is a civil staff of five, holding permanent appoint- 
 ments from the government. The presence of iinj)erial officers gives 
 a standing to the institution which it would not otherwise possess, 
 and helps the proper training of those of the cadets who are destined 
 for commissions in the regular army. The government was fortunate 
 in the choice of the first commandant, Col. Hewitt of the Eoyal En- 
 gineers, who, in addition to being an accomplished scholar and a 
 good soldier, was possessed of great tact and energy, and knew Can- 
 ada from former service. To his skill is due, in large measure, the 
 success which attended the college from its very outset, and his 
 guiding hand du-ected it through the difficulties which invariably 
 attend the early career of a new institution, which, in this case, was 
 to a large extent an experiment. Having completed his term he re- 
 turned in 1886 to Plymouth, and was succeeded by Col. Oliver of the 
 Royal Artillery, who had been professor of surveying and astronomy 
 from Lthe beginning, and who proved himself to be a worthy suc- 
 cessor. The present head of the institution is Maj.-Gen. Cameron, 
 late of the Royal Artillery. 
 
 Sir Frederick Middleton, now retired from the command of the 
 Canadian forces, took a deep interest, officially and personally, in 
 the college, and during its early days helped it with counsel and ad- 
 vice, which his experience at Sandhurst well qualified him to give. 
 The general officer commanding the militia is ex-offleio president of 
 the college. 
 
 The entrance examinations are held in June at the headquarters 
 of each military district, and the twenty-four successful candidates 
 report themselves at the opening of the term the following Septem- 
 ber. The first week is spent in being uniformed and drilled into 
 some kind of form. The second week the old cadets return, and the 
 garrison settles down to hard work. The daily routine embraces 
 drill and class parades, study and other duties. From reveille to 
 tattoo, with the exception of two hours — from four to six, during 
 which he is free — the cadet is under the eye of authority in the class 
 or lecture-room or on parade. There is none of that loitering which 
 so often takes place at civil colleges, none of that individual liberty 
 which often means license. The cadet has, however, two half holi- 
 days, on "Wednesday and Saturday, when he may go out on pass till 
 eleven o'clock, or, with extra leave, till one. Balls and parties in 
 Kingston are timed for these days, for the cadet, with his gay scar- 
 
68 The Rambler. 
 
 let uniform, is an important factor in the social world. While at- 
 tending the college the cadets are, of course, subject to the Queen's 
 Regulations, the Army Act, the Militia Act, and such other rules and 
 regulations as Her Majesty's troops are subject to. 
 
 The physical training is excellent. Sergt. -Major Morgan of the 
 Scots' Guards presides over this department, and well qualified he is 
 to fill the position. Cadets who pass four years under his instruction 
 come out with deep chests and erect figures, and show what a thor- 
 ough physical training can accomplish. 
 
 One of the rewards of good conduct is promotion to the rank of 
 non-commissioned ofiicer, the commandant having authority to ap- 
 point such from among those best qualified. Proud is he who is in- 
 vested with the chevrons, or given the right to wear the sergeant's 
 sash. 
 
 But while subject to strict discipline the cadets have opportunities 
 to cultivate their social qualities. One of the events of the season is 
 the annual sports, which take place in September. The campus is 
 alive with carriages and pedestrians, while pretty girls, with their 
 chaperons, form the center of groups engaged in animated conversa- 
 tion, or watching with interest the various competitions of speed and 
 skill. Races, jumping competitions and steeplechases follow each 
 other in quick succession, while the tug of war between the right 
 and left wings creates almost as much interest as the struggle on the 
 Isis between the college eights. The games over, all adjourn to the 
 gymnasium, where the prizes, more substantial than the crown of 
 ivy at the Olympic games, are distributed to the victors. Tea and 
 an impromptu dance follow in the college halls. 
 
 A ball is given at Christmas by the staff and cadets, and a yet 
 more elaborate entertainment of similar character at the close of the 
 college year in June. On closing day a series of field manoeuvers 
 takes place, with blowing up of imaginary fortifications and fleets, 
 and an exhibition of drill and bayonet exercise, after which the re- 
 sults of the examinations are announced, the prizes distributed, and 
 the session brought to a termination. The governor-general, the 
 minister of militia, or some one else high in authority, is secured, 
 if possible, to distribute the prizes and make a speech. Four com- 
 missions, one each in the engineers, artillery, cavalry, and infantry 
 branches of the imperial service, are available, the cadets who stand 
 highest on the honor roll, if otherwise eligible, being entitled to them 
 
The Rambler. 69 
 
 in the order named. The first two are eagerly sought, the third 
 generally goes a-begging, as there are few Canadian youths with suf- 
 ficient means to keep up a position in such an expensive branch of 
 the service, in which case an additional commission in the infantry 
 is generally substituted. All who have taken the full four years' 
 course, and qualified in all the obligatory subjects, are entitled to re- 
 ceive a diploma of graduation, those who have specially distinguished 
 themselves also receiving honors. Those who leave at the end of 
 two years, and pass the subjects required, receive a certificate of 
 military qualification only. 
 
 After the official proceedings are over on the closing day the ca- 
 dets have a parade of their own, when the members of the graduat- 
 ing class have to undergo an ordeal of handshaking and leavetaking 
 in true college form. A valedictory dinner in the evening follows, 
 and then steamer and car bear the cadets off, and the halls are de- 
 serted for three months. 
 
 Some of tlie passed cadets of the college have already won fanje 
 for themselves. The name of Stairs, who accompanied Stanley in 
 his march through darkest Africa, is well known the world over. 
 Lieut. Hewitt served in the Soudan and bears a medal won on the 
 banks of the Nile, and Lieut. Dobell has distinguished himself for 
 bravery in Burmah. 
 
 Occasion has not yet arisen to call into full play the energies of the 
 rapidly- growing members of the graduates of the Royal Military 
 College, and it is, therefore, too early to judge of its full benefit to 
 Canada. But the opinion of Lord Landsdowne, expressed when 
 governor general, is worth quoting. These are his words: 
 
 "There is no Canadian institution of which Canada should be 
 prouder or which will do better service to the country and to the 
 empire. It forms an interesting and distinctive feature in the mili- 
 tary system of the Dominion. That system, as I understand it, is 
 based upon the recognition of the fact that Canada cannot afford in 
 her own interests, or in those of the empii'e, to disregard those pre- 
 cautions which every civilized community takes in order to ensure 
 its own safety from intei'nal commotion or external attack. Upon 
 the other hand, it is a system entirely opposed to the establishment 
 of a numerous standing army, or to the withdrawal of a large body 
 of citizens from the peaceful pursuits which are essential to the pro- 
 gress and development of the country. 
 
 " That being so, it is clear that, in case of a national emergency, 
 the Dominion would have to trust largely to the spontaneous efforts 
 
YO The Rambler. 
 
 of its own people, to the expansion of its existing organization, and 
 the rapid development of the resources already at our command. 
 
 " But, gentlemen, it is needless for me to point out to you that 
 there is one thing which it is impossible to produce on the spur of 
 the moment, and that is a body of trained officers, competent to take 
 charge of new levies or to supervise operations necessary for the de- 
 fense of the national territory, and, therefore, it appears to me that 
 we cannot overrate the value of an institution which year by year 
 is turning out men who have received within its walls a soldier's 
 education in the best sense of the word and who, whatever their pri- 
 mary destination, will, I do not doubt, be found available whenever 
 their services are required by the country." 
 
 The cost of education at the Military College is not unreasonable. 
 Each cadet is required to deposit annually $300 to cover the cost of 
 messing and quarters, and in addition $200 the first year, and $150 
 each year afterwards for uniform, books and instruments. The mess- 
 man receives forty-six cents per day for each cadet present. Extras 
 are obtainable at fixed prices. No cadet is allowed to spend more 
 than two dollars per month, non-commissioned officers more than 
 four dollars, for extras, which they pay out of their pocket money. 
 
 In addition to the full course of four years and the military course 
 of two years, provision has been made at the college for officers of 
 the militia, who require higher instruction than the mihtary schools 
 afford, to take a three months' course, one class being instructed 
 each year. By this means a number of officers have been enabled to 
 qualify for important positions in the service. 
 
 Taken all in all, Canada's West Point has been an unqualified suc- 
 cess. 
 
The Rambler. 71 
 
 " America.' 
 
 The new steamer " America" has just been launched by the St. 
 Lawrence River Steamboat Company. She is one of the most luxu- 
 rious of the fleet under the management of that corporation. Their 
 trio of "Empire State," "St. Lawrence" and "America," not to 
 mention the other smaller boats, are unsurpassed by any steamers of 
 their type in the world. The " America " is the same size as the ' ' St. 
 Lawrence," her frame-work and hull being of steel to correspond 
 with that steamer. She has been planned in such a way that every 
 demand of an exacting public will be gratified. Upon her main deck, 
 aft, is located a large dining-room, equipped with individual tables, 
 comfortable chairs, and the finest linen, crockery and glass-ware. 
 This room is a model of taste and completeness; the heavy English 
 brussels carpet, a delicate shade of olive green and gold, harmonizes 
 with the rich velour curtains and wilton upholstery. Heavy, pol- 
 ished plate-glass windows extend from stem to stern on all decks, 
 and every panel is filled with a beveled plate -glass mirror. 
 
 The range, tea and coffee urns, carving table and other culinary 
 attributes have been specially manufactured to order by one of the 
 best known makers on the continent. A visit to this department 
 alone is extremely interesting and instructive, and will account for 
 the excellent meals for which the Folger line is famous. 
 
 A large saloon cabin is built upon the promenade deck, and furn- 
 ished in the same manner as the dining room upon the main deck, 
 below. The staterooms, with which this steamer is well supplied, 
 connect with the saloon cabin, and are equipped in a style consistent 
 with the other tasteful and substantial furnishings. 
 
 The electric lighting is upon a most gorgeous scale, there being 350 
 incandescent lamps, whose radiant beauty is enhanced by artistic 
 oxidized fixtures. 
 
 The search light is an exact duplicate in size, construction and 
 power of the far-famed lamp of the Steamer " St. Lawrence." It is 
 the largest ever seen on a passenger steamer, and in fact the extreme 
 full size possible for such a purpose. 
 
 Owing to the sfcanchness of this beautiful boat, passengers have ac- 
 cess to the hurricane deck, a privilege which everyone familiar with 
 steamboats will appreciate. The interior decorative . wood- work. 
 
CJ> 
 
 The Rambler. 
 
 arches, etc., in cabins is all carefully selected red oak, with stairs to 
 match; the carving being executed by Wainright. 
 
 Among other unique features, introduced for the first time on this 
 steamer, is one that deserves special mention : her wheels are of the 
 most improved pattern of feathering bucket, so, instead of having 
 them entirely concealed, and the beauty of their mechanism wasted, 
 thick plate glass is inserted, through which one may observe the rev- 
 olutions . Incandescent electric lights of various colors, with power- 
 ful reflectors are placed within the paddle boxes, and at night the 
 irridescent rays illuminate the flying spray and produce a most weird 
 and fascinating scene. 
 
 This new steamer is certainly a creditable addition to the "WHITE 
 SQUADRON," which plys among the Thousand Islands in direct 
 connection with the Vanderbilt system. 
 
 APPROACHING CLAYTON (THOUSAND ISLANDS). 
 
The Rambler. 73 
 
 Mr Jolin A. Haddock's Great Balloon Voyage With 
 Professor LaMountaln. 
 
 When the writer was in school at the Sulphur Springs in Hounds- 
 field, under Professor Morsman, there were two kinds of English 
 Readers then published by the firm of Knowlton & Rice, one con- 
 taining Jaius Rich's story of his fight with the panther on Bluff Rock, 
 below Theresa, the other edition failing to contain that narrative. 
 The book with the panther story was eagerly sought and devoured 
 by all the children who could read, while the other edition was not 
 by any means regarded with affection. The intense impression 
 made by that panther story upon my own mind and upon that of the 
 other scholars, has been a matter of recollection through the sixty 
 years which have elapsed. For that reason the author of this His- 
 tory has yielded to urgent solicitation, and presents below the story 
 of his great aerial voyage in 1859 with John LaMountain, one of the 
 longest voyages ever made in a balloon. The writer appears to be 
 best remembered by that perilous episode, especially among those 
 who are now the business men of Jefferson county, but who were 
 then eager, pushing lads, nearly crazy over the balloon fever, which 
 was at that time violent in Northern New York. Perhaps the most 
 important result attained by that dismal balloon experience may be 
 found in the article following this account, which relates to the 
 " Awakening of Henry Backus. " 
 
 The interest aroused by this balloon trip was surprising and 
 almost phenomenal, ray account being published at length in. nearly 
 every English newspaper. Perhaps the story filusti-ates fortitude 
 under trying circumstances and under the agonizing strain experi- 
 enced in the uncertainty which surrounded LaMountain and myself 
 when toiling in that wildernes. In that light it may be regarded as 
 an object lesson, not altogether to be lost upon those who are to 
 come after us. 
 
 THE ACCOUNT. 
 
 It is now about thirty-five years since the undersigned made the 
 memorable balloon voyage with Professor LaMountain— a voyage 
 intended to be short and pleasant, but which resulted in a long and 
 most disastrous one, entailing the loss of the valuable balloon, and 
 seriously endangering the lives of the travellers. Since then. La- 
 
T-i The Rambler. 
 
 Mountain, after serving through the great rebellion, has made his 
 last "voyage, " and has entered upon that existence where all the 
 secrets of the skies are as well defined and understood as are the 
 course of rivers here on earth. 
 
 To fully understand my reasons for making the trip, some leading 
 facts should be presented: 
 
 1. There had been, all through the year 1859, much excitement in 
 the public mind upon the subject of ballooning. In August of that 
 year I returned from Labrador, and found that the balloon Atlantic, 
 with Wise, Hyde, Gaeger and LaMountain, had been driven across 
 a part of Lake Ontario, while on their great trip from St Louis to 
 New York city, and had landed and been wrecked in Jefferson 
 coiinty, N. Y., and the people of that whole section were conse- 
 quently in a state of considerable excitement upon the subject of 
 navigating the air.* 
 
 2. I had heard of other newspaper editors making trips in balloons; 
 had read their glowing accounts, and it seemed to me like a very 
 cunning thing. Desiring to enjoy '•' all that was a-going," I natu- 
 rally wanted a balloon ride too, and therefore concluded to go, ex- 
 pecting to be absent from home not more than ten or twelve hours 
 at the longest, and to have a good time. Being a newspaj^er man, 
 and always on the alert for news, I had also a natural desire to do 
 all in my power to add to the local interest of my journal, and for 
 
 * The Wise named above was the celebrated aeronaut. Professor 
 John Wise, of Lancaster, Pa. ; and I may here remark that the trip 
 made by him and his associates is by far the longest on record. 
 Leaving St. Louis at about 4 p. M. they passed the whole night in the 
 air, were carried across the States of Illinois, Indiana, a portion of 
 Ohio and Michigan, over the whole northwestei-n breadth of Pennsyl- 
 vania and New York, and were at last wrecked in a huge tree-top 
 near the shore of Lake Ontario, at about 3 P. M. the next day, escap- 
 ing with severe bruises but without broken bones, after a journey of 
 eleven hundred miles. These adventurers did not travel as fast," nor 
 eacounter the perils that awaited us, but they made a longer voyage. 
 It was with this same balloon Atlantic that LaMountain and myself 
 made our trip, but it had been reduced one third in size, and was as 
 good as new. John Wise afterwards lost his life in a balloon, but 
 just where he perished was never known. Gaeger was a manufacturer 
 of crockery, and he died in Massachusetts. Hyde is publishing a 
 newspaper in one of the western States. LaMountain died in his bed 
 at Lansingburgh, N. Y., about 1884. 
 
The Rambler. 75 
 
 that reason felt a willingness to go through with more fatigue and 
 hazard than men are expected to endure in ordinary business 
 pursuits. 
 
 3. I felt safe in going, as I knew that LaMountain was an intrepid 
 and successful aeronaut, and I thought his judgment was to be 
 depended upon. How he was misled as to distance, and how little 
 he knew, or any man can know, of air navigation, the narrative will 
 readily demonstrate. 
 
 With these explanations, I will proceed with my original narra- 
 tive, nearly as written out at the time. 
 
 Nearly every one in Watertown is aware that the second ascension 
 of the baloon Atlantic was advertised for the 20th of September, 
 1859. The storm of that and the following day obliged the postpone- 
 ment of the ascension until the 22d. Every arrangement had been 
 made for a successful inflation, and at twenty-seven minutes before 
 6 P. M. the glad words, "all aboard," were heard from LaMountain, 
 and that distinguished aeronaut and myself stepped into the car. 
 Many were the friendly hands we shook— many a fervent "God bless 
 you," and "happy voyage," were uttered — and many hankerchiefs 
 waved their mute adieus. " Let go all," and away we soared; in an 
 instant all minor sounds of earth had ceased, and we were lifted 
 into a silent sphere, whose shores were without an echo, their silence 
 equaled only by that of the grave. No feeling of trepidation was 
 experienced; an extraordinary elation took possession of us, and fear 
 was as far removed as though we had been sitting in our own rooms 
 at home. 
 
 Two or three things struck me as peculiar in looking down from 
 an altitude of half a mile: the small appearance of our village from 
 such a height and the beautiful mechanical look which the straight 
 fences and oblong square fields of the farmers present. As we rose 
 into the light, fleecy clouds, they looked between us and the earth 
 like patches of snow we see lying upon the landscape in spring-time; 
 but when we rose a little higher the clouds completely shut out the 
 earth, and the cold, white masses below us had precisely the same 
 look that a mountainous snow-covered country does, as you look 
 down upon it from a higher mountain. Those who have crossed the 
 
 A,lps — or have stood upon one of the lofty summits of the Sierra 
 Nevada, and gazed down upon the eternal snows below and around 
 them, will be able to catch the idea. In six minutes we were far 
 
76 The Rambler. 
 
 above all the clouds, and the sun and we were face to face. We saw 
 the time after that when his face would have been very welcome to 
 us. In eight minutes after leaving the earth, the thermometer 
 showed a fall of 34 degrees. It stood at 84 when we left. The bal- 
 loon rotated a good deal, proving that were ascending with great 
 rapidity. At 5:48 thermometer stood at 42, and falling very fast. 
 At 5:50 we were at least two miles high — thermometer 34. 
 
 An unpleasant ringing sensation had now become painful, and I 
 filled both ears with cotton. At 5:52 we put on our gloves and 
 shawls — thermometer 32. The wet sandbags now became stiff with 
 cold — they were frozen. Ascending very rapidly. At 5:54 ther- 
 mometer 28, and falling. Here we caught our last sight of the earth 
 by daylight, I recognized the St. Lawrence to the south-west of us, 
 which showed we were drifting nearly north. At 6 o'clock we 
 thought we were descending a little, and LaMountain directed me 
 to throw out about 20 pounds of ballast. This shot us up again — 
 thermometer 26, and falling very slowly. At 6:05 thermometer 22 — 
 my feet were very cold. The Atlantic was now full, and presented 
 a most splendid sight. The gas began to discharge itself at the 
 mouth, and its abominable smell, as it came down upon us, made 
 me sick. A moment's vomiting helped my case materially, La- 
 Mountain was suffering a good deal with cold. I passed my thick 
 shawl around his shoulders, and put the blanket over our knees and 
 feet. At 6:1.0 thermometer 18. We drifted along until the sun left 
 us, and in a short time thereafter the balloon began to descend. We 
 must have been, before we began to descend from this height, 3| 
 miles high. At 6 : 22 thermometer 23 ; rising. We were now about 
 stationary, and thought we were sailing north of east. We could, 
 we thought, distinguish water below us, but were unable to recog- 
 nize it. At 6 :38 we threw over a bag of sand, making 80 pounds 
 of ballast discharged, and leaving about 120 pounds on hand. We 
 distintly heard a dog bark. Thermometer 28 — and rising rapidly. 
 At 6 : 45 the thermometer stood at 33. 
 
 At 6 : 50 it was dark, and I could make no more memoranda. I 
 put up my note book, pencil and watch, and settled down in the bas- 
 ket, feeling quiet contented. From this point until next moi'ning I 
 give my experiences from memory only. The figures given were 
 made at the times indicated, and the thermometric variations can be 
 depended on as quite accurate. 
 
The Rambler. 77 
 
 We heard, soon after dark, a locomotiYe whistle, and occasionally 
 could hear wagons rumbling over the ground or a bridge, while the 
 farmers' dogs kept up a continual baying, as if conscious there was 
 something unusual in the sky. We sailed along, contented and 
 chatty, until about half-past eight o'clock, when we distinctly saw 
 lights below us, and heard the roaring of a mighty water-fall. We 
 descended into a vaUey near a very high mountain, but as the place 
 appeared rather forbidding, we concluded to go up again. Over 
 with 30 pounds of ballast, and sky-ward we sailed. In about 20 
 minutes we again descended, but this time no friendly light greeted 
 us. We seemed to be over a dense wilderness, and the balloon was 
 settling down into a small lake. We had our life-preservers ready 
 for use, but got up again by throwing out all our ballast, except 
 perhaps 20 pounds. LaMountain now declared it was folly to stay 
 up any longer, that we were over a great wilderness, and the sooner 
 we descended the better. We <ooncluded to settle down by the side 
 of some tall tree, tie up, and wait until morning. In a moment we 
 were near the earth, and as we gently descended I grasped the ex- 
 treme top of a high spruce, which stopped the balloon's momentum, 
 and we were soon lashed to the tree by our large drag-rope. 
 
 We rolled ourselves up in our blankets, patiently waiting for the 
 morning. The cold rain spouted down upon us in rivulets from the 
 great balloon that lazily rolled from side to side over our heads, and 
 we were soon drenched and uncomfortable as men could be. After 
 a night passed in great apprenhension and unrest, we were right 
 glad to see the first faint rays of coming light. Cold and rainy the 
 morning at last broke, the typical precursor of other dismal morn- 
 ings to be spent in that uninhabited wilderness. We waited until 6 
 o'clock in hopes the rain would cease, and that the rays of the sun, 
 by warming and thereby expanding the gas in the balloon, would 
 give us ascending power sufficient to get up again, for the purpose 
 of obtaining a view of the country into which we had descended. 
 The rain did not cease, and we concluded to throw over all 
 we had in the balloon, except a coat for each, the life-preserv- 
 ers, the anchor and the compass. Overboard, then, they went 
 — good shawls and blankets, bottles of ale and a flask of cor- 
 dial, ropes and traps of all kinds. The Atlantic, relieved of this wet 
 load, rose majestically with us, and we were able to behold the 
 country below. It was an unbroken wilderness of lakes and spruce 
 
78 The Rambler. 
 
 — and I began to fully realize that we had indeed gone too far, 
 through a miscalculation of the velocity of the balloon. As the cur- 
 rent was still driving us towards the north, we dare not stay up, as 
 we were drifting still farther and farther into trouble. LaMoun- 
 tain seized the valve-cord and discharged gas, and we descended in 
 safety to the solid earth. Making the Atlantic fast by her anchor, 
 we considered what was to be done. 
 
 We had not a mouthful to eat, no protection at night from the 
 wet ground, were distant we knew not how far from any habita- 
 tion, were hungry to start with, had no possible expectation of 
 making a fire, and no definite or satifactory idea as to where we 
 were. We had not even a respectable pocket knife, nor a pin to 
 make a fish hook of — indeed we were about as well equipped for for- 
 est life as were the babes in the woods. 
 
 After a protracted discussion, in 'which all our ingenuity was 
 brought to bear upon the question of our whereabouts, we settled in 
 our minds (mainly from the character of the timber around us), that 
 we were either in John Brown's tract, or in that wilderness lying be- 
 tween Ottawa City and Prescott, Canada. If this were so, then we 
 knew that a course south by east would take us out if we had 
 strength enough to travel the distance. 
 
 TEAMPING IN THE WOODS. 
 
 Acting upon our conclusion, we started through the woods toward 
 the south-east. After traveling about a mile we came to the bank 
 of a small stream flowing from the west, and were agreeably sur- 
 prised to find that some human being had been there before us, 
 for we found the stumps of several small trees and the head of a 
 half -barrel, which contained pork. I eagerly examined the inspec- 
 tion stamp ; it read : 
 
 "MESS POEK," 
 
 "P. M." 
 
 "Montreal." 
 
 This settled the question that we were in Canada, as I well knew 
 that no Montreal inspection of pork ever found its way into the 
 State of New York. Although the course we had adopted was to be 
 a south-easterly one, we yet concluded to follow this creek to the 
 westward, and all day Friday we travelled up its banks — crossing it 
 
The Rambler. 79 
 
 about noon on a floating log, and striking on the southern shore a 
 "blazed" path, which led to a deserted lumber road, and it in turn 
 bring us to a log shanty on the opposite bank. We had hoped this 
 lumber road would lead out into a clearing or a settlement, but a 
 careful examination satisfied us that the road ended here, its objec- 
 tive point evidently being the shanty on the other bank. We con- 
 cluded to cross the creek to the shanty, and stay there all night. 
 Collecting some small timbei-s for a raft, LaMountain crossed over 
 safely, shoving the raft back to me. But my weight was greater 
 than my companion's, and the frail structure sank under me, pre- 
 cipitating me into the water. I went in all over, but swam oiit, 
 though it took all my strength to do so. On reaching the bank I 
 found myself so chilled as scarcely to be able to stand. I took off 
 all my clothes and wrung them as dry as I could. We then pro- 
 ceeded to the shanty, where we found some refuse straw, but it was 
 dry, and under a pile of it we crawled — pulling it over our heads 
 and faces, in the hope that our breath might aid in warming our 
 chilled bodies. I think the most revengeful, stony heart would have 
 pitied our condition then. I will not attempt to describe our 
 thoughts as we lay there ; home, children, wife, parents, friends, 
 with their sad and anxious faces, rose up reproachfully before us as 
 we tried to sleep. But the weary houi's of night at last wore away, 
 and at daylight we held a new council. It was evident, we argued, 
 that the creek we were upon was used by the lumbermen for " driv- 
 ing " tlieir logs in the spring freshets. If, then, we followed it to its 
 confluence with the Ottawa or some stream which emptied into the 
 Ottawa, we would eventually get out the same way the timber went 
 out. The roof of the shanty was covered with the halves of hollow 
 logs, scooped out in a manner familiar to all woodsmen. The^e 
 were dry and light, and would make us an excellent raft. Why not, 
 then, take four of these, tie them to cross-pieces by wythes and such 
 odd things as we coiild find around the shanty, and pole the craft 
 down stream to that civilization which even a saw-log appeared able 
 to reach. Such, then, was the plan adopted, although it involved 
 the retracing of all the steps hitherto taken, and an apparent depart- 
 ure from the course we had concluded would lead us out. 
 
 Without delay, then, we dragged the hollow logs down to the 
 creek, and LaMountain proceeded to tie them together, as he was 
 more of a sailor than myself. We at last got under way, and as we 
 
80 The Rambler. 
 
 pushed off, a miserable crow set up a dismal cawing — an inauspici- 
 ous sign We poled down the stream about a mile, when we came 
 abruptly upon a large pine tree which had fallen across the current; 
 completely blocking the passage of the raft. No other course was 
 left us but to untie the raft, and push the pieces through under the 
 log. This was at last accoaiplished, when we tied our craft together 
 again, and poled down the stream. To-day each of us ate a raw frog 
 (all we could find), and began to realize that we were hungry. Yet 
 there was no complaining — our talk was of the hopeful future, 
 and of the home and civilization we yet expected to reach. Down 
 the creek we went, into a lake some four miles long, and into 
 which we of course supposed the stream to pass, with its outlet at 
 the lower end. We followed down the northern bank, keeping 
 always near the shore and in shallow water, so that our poles could 
 touch the bottom, until we reached the lower extremity of the lake, 
 where we found no outlet, and so turned back upon the southern 
 shore in quest of one. On reaching the head of the lake, and examin- 
 ing the stream attentively, we found that the current of the creek 
 turned abruptly to the right, which was the reason of our losing it. 
 We felt happy to have found our current again, and plied our poles 
 like heroes. We passed, late in the afternoon, the spot where we 
 had at first struck the creek, and where we stuck up some dead 
 branches as a landmai'k which might aid us in case we should at a 
 future time attempt to save the Atlantic. 
 
 When night came on we did not stop, but kept the raft going 
 down through the shades of awful forests, whose solemn stillness 
 seemed to hide from us the unrevealed mystery of our darkening 
 future. During the morning the rain had ceased, but about 10 
 o'clock at night it commenced again. We stopped the " vessel " and 
 crawled in under some "tag " alders on the bank, where our extreme 
 weariness enabled us to get perhaps half an hour's sleep. Rising 
 again (for it was easier to pole the raft at night in the rain down 
 an unknown stream amidst the shadows of that awful forest, 
 than to lie on the ground and freeze), we pressed on until per- 
 haps three in the morning, when pure exhaustion compelled 
 us to stop again. This time we found a spot where the clayey bank 
 lacked a little of coming down to the water. On the mud we threw 
 our little bundle of straw, and sat down with our feet drawn up 
 under us, so as to present as little surface to the rain as possible 
 
The Rambler. 81 
 
 But we could not stand such an uncomfortable position long, and as 
 the daylight of the Sabbath broke upon us, we were poling down the 
 stream in a drizzling rain. At 8 o'clock we reached a spot at which 
 the stream narrowed, rusliing over large boulders, and between 
 rocky shores. This was trouble indeed. To get our raft down this 
 place we regarded as well-nigh hopeless. We tied up and examined 
 the shore. Here, again, we found unmistakable marks left by the 
 lumbermen, they having evidently camped at this point, to be handy 
 by in the labor of getting the timber over this bad spot in the stream. 
 The rapids were about a third of a mile long, and very turbulent. 
 After a protracted survey we descended the bank, and thought it 
 best to abandon our raft, and try our luck on foot again. After 
 travelhng about a mile, we found the bank so tangled and rugged, 
 and ourselves so much exhausted, that satisfactory progress was 
 impossible. So we concluded to go back, and if we could get the 
 raft down, even one piece at a time, we would go on with her — if 
 not, we would build as good a place as possible to shield us from the 
 cold and wet, and there await with fortitude that death from starva- 
 tion which was beginning to be regarded as a probabihty. This was 
 our third day of earnest labor and distressing fatigue, and in all 
 that time we had not ate an ounce of food, nor had dry clothing 
 upon us. 
 
 Acting upon our resolution we at once commenced to get the raft 
 down the rapids, and I freely confess that this was the most trying 
 and laborous work of a whole life of labor. The pieces would not 
 float over a rod at a time, before they would stick on some stone 
 which the low water left above the surface; and then you must pry 
 the stick over in some way, and pass it along to the next obstruction. 
 We were obliged to get into the stream, often up to the middle, with 
 slippery boulders beneath our feet. Several times I fell headlong 
 — completely using up our compass, which now frantically pointed 
 in any direction its addled head took a fancy to. The water had un- 
 glued the case, and it was ruined. After long hours of such labor 
 we got the raft down and LaMountain again tied it together. Pass- 
 ing on, in about an hour we came to a large lake, about ten miles 
 long by six broad. Around it we must of course pass, until we 
 should find the desired outlet. So we turned up to the right, and 
 pressed on with as much resolution as we could muster. To-day 
 we found one clam, which I insisted LaMountain should eat, as he 
 
82 The Rambler. 
 
 was much weaker than myself, and had eaten nothing on the day 
 we went up. 
 
 Part of this day LaMountain slept upon the raft, and I was " boss 
 and all hands. " As the poor fellow Jay there, completely used up, 
 I saw that he could not be of much more assistance in getting out. 
 Erysipelas, from which he had previouslj^ suffered, had attacked his 
 right eye; his face was shriveled so that he looked like an old man, 
 and his clothes were nearly torn from his body. A few tears could 
 not be restrained, and my prayer was for speedy deliverance or 
 speedy death. While my companion was asleep, and I busily pol- 
 ing the raft along, I was forced to the conclusion, after deliberately 
 canvassing all the chances, that we were pretty sure to perish there 
 miserably at last. But I could not cease my efforts while I had 
 strength, and so around the lake we went, into all the indentations of 
 the shore, keeping always in the shallow water. The day at last 
 wore away, and we stopped at night at a place we thought least ex- 
 posed to the wind. We dragged the end of our raft out of the water 
 and laid down upon the cold ground. We were cold when we laid 
 down, and both of us trembled by the hour, like men suffering from 
 a severe attack of the ague. The wind had risen just at night, and 
 the dismal surging of the waves upon the shore formed, I thought, a 
 fitting lullaby to our disturbed and dismal slumbers. 
 
 By this time our clothes were nearly torn off. My i^antaloons 
 were split up both legs, and the waistbands nearly gone. My boots 
 were mere wrecks, and our mighty wrestlings in the rapids had torn 
 the skin from ankles and hands. LaMountain's hat had disappeared; 
 the first day out he had thrown away his wollen drawers and stock- 
 ings, as they dragged him down by .the weight of water they ab- 
 sorbed. And so we could sleep but little; it really seemed as though 
 during this night we passed through the horrors of death. But at 
 daylight we got up by degrees, first on one knee and then on the other, 
 so stiff and weak that we could hardly stand. Again upon the silent, 
 monotonous lake we went — following around its shore for an out' 
 let. About 10 o'clock we come to quite a broad northern stream, 
 which we thought was the outlet we were seeking, and we entered 
 it with joy, believing it would take us to our long sought Ottawa. 
 Shortly after entering this stream it widened out and began to ap- 
 pear like a mere lake. We poled up the western shore for about 
 seven miles, but found ourselves again deceived as to the outlet — 
 
The Rambler. 
 
 83 
 
 the water we were upon proving to be another lake or bayou. We 
 had gone into this lake with the highest hopes, but when we found 
 that all the weary miles of our morning travel had been in vain, and 
 had to be retraced, my resolution failed me for a moment. Yet we 
 felt that our duty, as Christian men, was to press forward as long as 
 we could stand, and leave the issue with a higher Power. 
 
 It had now been four full days since we ate a meal. All we had 
 eaten in the meantime was a frog apiece, four clams and a few wild 
 berries, whose acid properties and bitter taste had probably done us 
 more harm than good. Our strength was beginning to fail very 
 fast, and our systems were evidently undergoing an extraordinary 
 change. I did not permit myself to think of food — the thought of 
 a well-filled table would have been too much. My mind continually 
 dwelt upon poor Strain's sufferings on the Isthmus of Darien (then 
 lately published in Harper's Magazine). He, too, was paddling a 
 raft down an unknown stream, half starved, and filled with dread- 
 ful forebodings. But I did not believe we could hold out half as 
 long as he had. Besides, he was lost in a tropical country, where 
 all nature is kind to man; he had fire-arms and other weapons with' 
 which to kill game. We were in a cold, inhospitable land without 
 arms and utterly unable to build a fire. Strain was upon a stream 
 which he knew would eventually bear him to the sea and to safety; 
 while we were upon waters whose flow we positively knew nothing 
 about, andweie as much lost as though in the mountains of the 
 moon. Yet we could not give it up so, and tried to summon up 
 fresh courage as troubles appeared to thicken around us. So we 
 turned the raft around and poled it in silence back toward the place 
 where we had entered this last lake. We had gone about a "mile 
 when we heard the sound of a gun, quickly followed by a second re- 
 port. No sound was ever so sweet as that. We halloed as loud as 
 we could a good many times, but could get no response. We kept 
 our poles going quite lively, and had gone about half a mile when I 
 called LaMountain's attention to what I thought was smoke curling 
 up among the trees by the side of a hill. My own eyesight had be- 
 gun to fail very much, and I felt afraid to trust my dulled senses in a 
 matter so vitally important. LaMountain scrutinized the shore very 
 closely, and said he thought it was smoke, and that he believed there 
 was also a birch canoe on the shore below. In a few moments the 
 blue smoke rolled unmistakably above the tree tops, and we felt that 
 
84 The Rambler. 
 
 WE WERE SAVED '. 
 
 Such a revulsion of feeling was almost too much. We could 
 hardly credit our good fortune, for our many bitter disappointments 
 had taught us not to be very sanguine. With the ends of our poles 
 we paddled the raft acros'^ the arm of the lake, here perhaps three- 
 quarters of a mile wide, steering for the canoe. It proved to be a 
 large one, evidently an Indian's. Leaving LaMountain to guard and 
 retain the canoe, in case the Indian proved timid and desired to 
 escape from us, I pressed hurriedly up the bank, following the foot- 
 prints I saw in the damp soil, and soon came upon the temporary 
 shanty of a lumbering wood, from the rude chimney of which a 
 broad volume of smoke was rising. I halloed — a noise was heard 
 inside, and a noble-looking Indian came to the door. I eagerly 
 asked him if he could speak French, as I grasped his outstretched 
 hand. " Yes," he replied, "and English, too!" He drew me into 
 the cabin, and there I saw the leader of the party, a noble-hearted 
 Scotchman named Angus Cameron. I immediately told my story ; 
 that we had come in there with a balloon, were lost, and had been 
 over four days without food — eagerly demanding to know where 
 we were. Imagine my surprise when he said we were one hundred 
 and eighty miles due north of Ottawa, near 300 miles from Water- 
 town, to reach which would require more than 500 miles of travel, 
 following the streams and roads. We were in a wilderness as large 
 as three States like New York, extending from Lake Superior on the 
 west, to the St. Lawrence on the east, and from Ottawa on the 
 south, to the Arctic circle. 
 
 The party consisted of four persons — Cameron and his assistant, 
 and a half-breed Indian (LaMab McDougal) and his son. Their 
 savory dinner was ready. I immediately dispatched the young 
 Indian for LaMountain, who soon came in, the absolute picture of 
 wretchedness. All that the cabin contained was freely offered us, 
 and we began to eat. Language is inadequate to express our feel- 
 ings. Within one little hour the clouds had lifted from our sombre 
 future, and we felt ourselves to be men once more — no longer 
 houseless wanderers amid primeval forests, driven by chance from 
 side to side, but inspired by the near certainty of seeing home again 
 a,nd mingling with our fellows once more in the busy scenes of 
 life. 
 
The Rambler. 85 
 
 We soon learned from Cameron that the stream we had traversed 
 with our raft was called Filliman's creek — the large lake we were 
 then near was called the Bos-ke-tong, and di-ains into the Bos-ke- 
 tong river, which in turn drains into the Gatineau. The Gatineau 
 joins the Ottawa opposite the city of that name, the seat of govern- 
 ment of Canada. Cameron assured us that the Bos ke-tong and 
 Gatineau were so rapid and broken that no set of men could get a 
 raft down, no matter how well they knew the country, nor how 
 much provisions they might have. He regarded our deliverance as 
 purely providential, and many times remarked that we would cer- 
 tainly have perished but for seeing the smoke from his fire. He was 
 hunting timber for his employers, Gilmour & Co., of Ottawa, and 
 was to start in two days down the Gatineau for his headquaiters at 
 Desert. If we would stay there until he started we were welcome, 
 he said, to food and accommodations, and he would take us down to 
 Desert in his canoe, and at that point we could get Indians to take 
 us farther on. He also said that he had intended to look for timber 
 on Filliman's creek, near where the balloon would be found, as near 
 as we could describe the locality to him, and would try to look it up 
 and make the attempt to get it to Ottawa. This would be a long and 
 tedious operation, as the portages are very numerous between the 
 creek and Desert — something over twenty — one of them three 
 miles long. Over these portages, of coure, the silk must be carried 
 on the backs of Indians. 
 
 After eating all I dared to, and duly cautioning LaMountain not to 
 hurt himself by over-indulgence, I laid down to sleep. Before doing 
 so, I had one of the men remo\!e my boots, ani when they came off, 
 nearly the whole outer skin peeled off with the stockings. My feet 
 had become parboiled by the continual soakings of four days and 
 nights, and it was fully three months before they were cured. 
 
 After finishing up his business in the vicinity were we found him, 
 on Friday morning (our ninth day from home), Cameron started on 
 his return. We stopped, on our way up the creek, at the spot where 
 we had erected our landmark by which to find the balloon. We 
 struck back for the place, and in about twenty minutes found her, 
 impaled on the tops of four smallish spruce trees, and very much 
 torn. LaMountain concluded to abandon her. He took the valve as 
 a memento, and I cut the letters " TIC," which had formed part of 
 her name, and brought the strip of silk home with me. We reached 
 
86 The Rambler. 
 
 what is known as the "New Farm" on Friday night, and there 
 ended our sleeping on the ground. Up by early dawn, and on again, 
 through the drenching rain, reaching Desert on Saturday evening. 
 
 At Desert we were a good deal troubled to obtain Indians to take 
 us further on. LaMab McDougal had told his wife about the balloon, 
 and she, being superstitious and ignorant, had gossipped with the 
 other squaws, and told them the balloon was a " flying devil." As 
 we had travelled in this flying devil, it did not require much of a 
 stretch of Indian credulity to believe that if we were not the Devil's 
 children, we must at least be closely related. In this extremity we 
 appealed to Mr. Backus,* a kind-hearted American trader, who 
 agreed to procure us a complement of redskins, who would take us 
 to Alexis le Beau's place (60 miles down the river), where it was 
 thought we could oVjtain horses. Sunday morning (our eleventh day 
 from home), we started from Desert, and reached Alexis le Beau's 
 just at night. The scenery upon this part of the route was sublime 
 and imposing. The primeval forest stood as grand and silent as 
 when created. Our Indians, too, surpassed anything I ever beheld, 
 in physical vigor and endurance. In the day's run of sixty miles, 
 thei-e were sixteen portages to be made. On reaching one of these 
 places, they would seize the canoe as quick as we stepped out of it, 
 jerk it out of the water and on to their shoulders in half a minute, 
 and start upon a dog trot as unconcernedly as though bearing no 
 burthen. Arriving at the foot of the portage, they would toss the 
 canoe into the stream, steady it until we were seated, then spring in 
 and paddle away, gliding down the stream like an arrow. In the 
 
 * Something quite curious grew out of my naming Mr. Henry 
 Backus as having assisted us at the mouth of the Desert river. My 
 account was generally published throughout the country, and some 
 ten days after our return I received a letter from a lady in Massachu- 
 setts asking me to describe to her the man Backus, as that was the 
 name of her long-absent son, who, twenty years before, had disap- 
 peared from home, and had never afterwards been heard from. I 
 answered the letter immediately, and soon after learned that the man 
 proved to be her son, and that he had promised to come home. 
 What had driven him away from civilization to live among the In- 
 dians, was best known to himself. But a man of his generous im- 
 pulses might have been an ornament to society, and a blessing to his 
 fi-iends. [This note was written the next week after we escaped 
 from the wilderness. The article following this treats of Backus' 
 experience quite exhaustively.] 
 
The Rambler. 87 
 
 morning we traveled fifteen miles and made seven portages in one 
 hour and forty minutes. 
 
 At Alexis le Beau's we first beheld a vehicle denominated a '' buck- 
 board " — a wide, thick plank reaching from one bolster of the 
 wagon to the other, and upon the middle of which i^lank the seat 
 was placed. This sort of conveyance is often used in new countries, 
 being very cheap, and within the reach of ordinary n^echanical skill. 
 Starting off as soon as we could get someting to eat, we travelled all 
 night through the forest, over one of the worst roads ever left unfin- 
 ished, and reached Brooks' farm, a sort of frontier tavern, in the 
 early morning, where we slept a couple of hours, and after breakfast 
 pressed on by the rough frontier stage towards Ottawa. 
 
 While the stage was stopping to-day to change horses, I picked up 
 a newspaper at Her Brittanic Majesty's colonial frontier i^ost-ofiice, 
 and in it read an account of our ascension and positive loss, with a 
 rather flattering obituary notice of myself. And then, for the first 
 time, I began to comprehend the degree of concern of our protracted 
 absence had aroused in the public mind. And if the public felt this 
 concern, what would be the degree of pain experienced by wife, 
 children, parents, friends ? These reflections spurred us forward — 
 or rather, our money induced the drivers to hurry up their horses -7- 
 and at last, on the twelfth day of our absence, at about five o'clock 
 in the afternoon, we jumped ofi: the stage in front of the telegraph 
 office in the good city of Ottawa, whence, in less than five minutes, 
 the swift lightning was speeding a message to home and friends. 
 That was a happy moment — the happiest of all my life — when I 
 knew that within thirty minutes my family would know of my 
 safety. 
 
 I do not know how the peo]ple of Ottawa so soon found out who 
 we were — but suppose the telegraph operator perhaps told some one, 
 and that " some one " must have told the whole town, for in less than 
 lialf an hour there was a tearing, excited, happy, inquisitive mass of 
 people in front of the grand hotel there — the clerk of which, when 
 he looked at our ragged clothes and bearded faces, at first thought 
 he "hadn't a single room left," but, who, when he found out that 
 we were the lost balloon men, wanted us to have the whole hotel, 
 free and above board, and had tea and supper and lunch, and "just 
 a little private supper, you know ! " following each other in I'apid, 
 yet most acceptable succession. The happy crowd in the hotel and 
 
88 . The Rambler. 
 
 upon the street were determined to shake hands with us every one, 
 and nearly all wanted to give or loan us money. Pretty soon the 
 newspaper men and some personal acquaintances began to piess 
 through the crowd, and some cried while others laughed and huz- 
 zahhed. Indeed, every one acted as if they had just ' ' found some- 
 thing." And such is human nature always, when its noble sympa- 
 thies are aroused for the suffering or distressed. 
 
 Although the president of the Ottawa and Prescott Railroad (Rob- 
 ert Bell, Esq.), volunteered to send us on by a special engine that 
 night, we thought it best (inasmuch as our friends had been informed 
 of our safety), to stay at Ottawa until morning. It did seem as 
 though the generous people of that city could not do enough for us, 
 and their kind attention and disintersted enthusiasm will never be 
 forgotten. 
 
 Well, the next morning we left Ottawa, and were quickly carried 
 to Prescott; thence across the St. Lawrence River to Ogdensburg. 
 Here a repetition of the same friendly greetings took place; and at 
 last, after a hearty dinner, we left for home, now distant only 
 seventy -five miles by rail. All along the line of the road we found 
 enthusiastic crowds awaiting our coming, and all seemed to exhibit 
 unmistakeable evidence of the deep interest felt in our fate. At 
 Watertown, which had been my home from boyhood, the enthusi- 
 asm had reached fever heat, and the whole town was out to greet 
 the returning aeronauts. They had out the old cannon on the Public 
 Square, and it belched forth the loudest kind of a welcome. My 
 family had, of course, suffered deeply by my absence. Everybody 
 had given us up for dead, except my wife. I felt very cheap about 
 the whole thing, and was quite certain that I had done a very foolish 
 act. Not so the people — they thought it a big thing to have gone 
 through with so much, and yet come out alive. 
 
 Several general conclusions and remarks shall terminate this nar- 
 rative, already too long. ' ' Why did you permit yourselves to go so 
 far?" will naturally be asked. To this inquiry I reply, that the 
 wind was exceedingly light when we ascended; that we were veiy 
 soon among the clouds, and consequently unable to take cognizance 
 of our course, or to judge how fast we were travelling. It should 
 
The Rambler. 89 
 
 be distinctly understood that when you are sailing in a balloon, you 
 are unconsious of motion and progress, unless you can see the earth. 
 
 Even when you first leave the earth, you seem to be stationary, 
 while the earth appears to drop away from you. Nor can you, when 
 out of sight of the earth, although you may have a compass, iudge 
 of the direction you are travelling, if travelling at all. In a few 
 words, unless you can see the earth, you cannot tell how fast nor 
 in what direction you are travelling. This, perhaps, better than any- 
 thing else, will explain why we unconsciously drifted off to lati- 
 tudes so remote. When we arose above the thick mass of clouds, 
 before sundown, we undoubtedly struck a rapid current that carried 
 us north-east, and after we had travelled in this current about an 
 hour, we probably struck another current, from the variation of our 
 altitude, which bore us off to the north-west, for the place where we 
 landed is about thirty miles west of due north from where we as- 
 cended. 
 
 When we first descended near the earth, and saw lights and heard 
 dogs barking, we should have landed. But we were unwilling to 
 land at night in a deep wood, even though we knew that inhabitants 
 were near by, and we thought it best to pick out a better place. 
 This was our error; and it came near being a fatal one to us — it 
 was certainly so to the balloon. In trying to find our " better place " 
 to land, we were up longer than we supposed, and as we were travel- 
 ling in a current that bore us off to the northward at the rate of 100 
 miles an hour, we soon reached a point beyond the confines of civili- 
 zation. 
 
90 The Rambler. 
 
 La Rue's Treasures. 
 
 (The gold seekers of the St. Lawrence. A tale of the Thousand Islands.) 
 About four miles west of the Mallorytovvu Ijanding, on the north 
 shore of the St. Lawrence, at the spot where the original Mallorys 
 first landed, a se-ttler named "William La Rue, but commonly known 
 as " Billy " Larue, received a grant of lots 15 and 19, in all, 550 
 acres of land, in the year of our Lord, 1802. "Billy " was, although 
 eccentric, a man of great energy and endurance. As a proof of the 
 latter quality, it is related of him that he once walked barefooted 
 the whole distance to Cornwall, that being the nearest point at 
 which he could procure sufficient leather for a pair of shoes. At 
 the point where La Rue settled, a deep ravine opened to the river. 
 Across this he managed to construct a dam, thus furnishing him- 
 self with a most excellent water power, on which he built a mill, 
 and, in consequence, grew in wealth. During the war of 1812 his 
 mill was taken possession of by the British troops, who utilized it 
 as a means of providing subsistence for the troops. 
 
 Although his lands presented almost insuperable barriers to agri- 
 cultural improvements, Billy persevei-ed in clearing away the 
 original forest, and, in its stead, planted apple, chestnut and walnut 
 trees, so that even now, at a distance of almost a century of time, 
 mingled amongst pines of a second growth, may now and then be 
 found an apple tree, planted by the hand of the original owner of 
 the soil, " Billy " La Rue. But time speed away and Billy toiled on, 
 and as he was never known to be at all profuse in his expenditures, 
 it was surmised that at his death, which was at a good old age, he 
 was possessed of a large amount of gold and silver, which, by con- 
 stant accretions in the imagination of his acquaintances, grew into 
 fabulous sums which were, of course, buried somewhere on his es- 
 tate; and though hardly jaressed at the time of his death to do so, 
 he died and " made no sign." Having no family, and no heir nor 
 heirs having ever i^resented a claim to his possessions, the lands, in 
 time, reverted to the State, the mill and dam rotted away, the once 
 cleared lands became covered with a second growth, but the belief 
 in Billy La Rue's buried treasures remained and grew and multiplied 
 more rapidly than did the little groves of second-growth pines 
 which to-day dot the premises, and many have been the excavations 
 made, and many the midnight searches at all points around the 
 house, but so far in vain. While Billy was on his death bed, it was 
 
The Rambler. 91 
 
 noticed that his fast glazing eyes turned oftenest in a particular di- 
 rection, and it was along that line of view that the most persistent 
 effort was made; and of one of those midnight searches a record is 
 left by one of the participators, which is given as nearly as possible 
 in his own language. 
 
 The Treasure-Seeker's Narrative. 
 
 On a bright moonlight night, in company with three other men, I 
 left the village of Mallorytown and proceeded to a spot in the 
 vicinity of the old La Rue mill near the upper dam. We were pro- 
 vided with a divining rod of witch-hazel, and a goodly supply of 
 picks and shovels, and in fact everything that was necessary to the 
 prosecution of an enterprise of that character. We were in the best 
 of spirits, and as it was a charming night, every way suitable for a 
 successful issue to such an enterprise, we determined, if possible, to 
 unearth Billy's treasures, or at all events to probe the secret to the 
 very bottom. 
 
 Our guide was an elderly gentleman who claimed to be an expert 
 in the matter of unearthing buried treasures, and he had carefully 
 instructed in every particular relating to etiquette to be observed on 
 like delicate adventures. One imperative command, I remember 
 well, and that was, that from the moment the divining rod began to 
 indicate the sought for spot, not a word should be spoken, happen 
 what might. We proceeded first to the house and then to the ceme- 
 tery, at which point we proposed to begin our operations. It was a 
 night of beauty. The moon shone clear and bright through the 
 pines on the overhanging cliff, and yet a feeling something like awe 
 crept over us. Suddenly our leader paused and presented his wand. 
 Slowly the witch-hazel turned toward its mother earth. Moving a 
 few paces to the left, our leader re-adjusted the wand, and again it 
 drooped earthward. Again and again was the mysterious divinmg 
 rod tested, and always with the same result. That we had solved 
 the secret, and were about to become the happy possessors of the 
 long-buried gold, there was no manner of doubt. 
 
 Striking a cii'cle of about twelve feet radius, we began to dig, and 
 so intent were we upon the welcome task that I took no note of the 
 passing time. Whether we dug one hour or six, I cannot tell. 
 Gradually the sky became overcast and one by one the stars dis- 
 appeared. The moon sank from sight beneath the horizon, while 
 the wind, as it rose in gusts and fell again into a gentle breeze, sighed 
 
92 The Rambler. 
 
 a mournful requiem among the swaying pines. It grew weird and 
 gloomy, and like a pall darkness came down upon us as we dug, 
 transforming us into spectres in each other's eyes. But we labored 
 on and not a word was spoken. 
 
 Next came a blast of icy coldness which chilled the very marrow 
 in our bones, though from our severe exertion we were bathed in 
 perspiration. In the distance we heard a tramping, as of many feet. 
 It seemed as though the guardian spirit of Billy La Rue's treasure 
 was marshalling a force to destroy the desecrators of the last resting 
 place of the dead. 
 
 But we were nearing the completion of our labors. Our excava- 
 tion was cone-like in form, the deepest part being in the center 
 Suddenly a pick struck a metallic substance and the sound rang out 
 clear and distinct on the night air. A few shovelfuls of earth more 
 taken off and we felt the object with our hands ; because of its ring- 
 ing sound when struck I will always believe it was metal. We re- 
 doubled our exertions and rapidly removed the earth from one side 
 and thrust down a crowbar. The coveted treasure was our own. 
 With our united strength we slowly raised the iron covering, when 
 in an instant we were surrounded by creatures innumerable, crowd- 
 ing up to the very edge of our excavation. In the darkness their 
 forms were indistinct, but to judge from the noise of their tramping 
 there must have been thousands of them. They reminded me of a 
 vast drove of black cattle. A great fear which I cannot describe 
 came upon us, and with one impulse we dropped the crowbar and 
 ran for life. Coming out of the ravine near the new mill, we paused. 
 The moon was sailing majestically through a clear sky, though to 
 our belief it had a short time before gone down in gloom. After a 
 brief consultation, we came to the conclusion that we were victims 
 of imagination. We returned to our work. We found our tools 
 and garments, but not a sign of any metallic covering nor even a 
 fiat stone at the bottom of our excavation. Our leader sorrowfully 
 shook his head, and declared that the "treasure had moved," and so 
 we departed for Mallorytown, determined to let the treasures of Billy 
 La Rue rest forevermore. 
 
 Note. — The above story, or the substance of it, was found by the 
 author of this book in an old i^amphlet, in which the name of its 
 writer does not appear, else due credit would have been given. It is 
 inserted mainly because its location is among the Thousand Islands. 
 
The Rambler. 93 
 
 On Historic Ground. 
 
 ( From the Congregationalist, Sept. 27, i8g^.) 
 
 Should an American Walter Scott ever arise he would find ample 
 material for a new series of Waverly novels in the historic associa- 
 tions of the River St. Lawrence and its northern and southern shores. 
 He would find here mighty fortresses built by no human hands, 
 castles made more secure by natural bulwarks than moat or bar- 
 bican could make them, hidden bays in which a fleet might hide, 
 channels three hundred feet deep winding between wooded islands 
 and secluded water ways. Ellen's Isle, made famous by the Wizard 
 of the North, is reproduced here in a hundred forms, and Loch 
 Katrine has scores of rivals at our very door. 
 
 We have our legends of battle and carnage, of valiant deeds by 
 souls as heroic as those who wore the tartan and the plaid. We can 
 point out a cavern hidden away beneath precipitous rock on a 
 secluded island, which has its romance of a maiden's devotion to her 
 father hiding from bitter enemies seeking his life. She, darting 
 through the waters in a little canoe, avoiding the watchful enemy, 
 provided for his needs till the danger had passed. To-day this 
 Devil's Oven, if not as famous as the little island among the Tros- 
 sachs, is visited by thousands and the heroism of the maiden 
 recalled. 
 
 Connected with this act of bravery is the story of her father, Wil- 
 liam Johnston, as told by one of his old neighbors. About the year 
 1837 our American steamer Caroline was seized for transporting 
 patriots to Canada and sent over Niagara Falls. In revenge for this 
 act, coupled with real or fancied personal wrongs, Johnston organ- 
 ized a company of frontiersmen, and on Wellesley Island, then al- 
 most uninhabited, lay in wait for the new and elegant side-wheel 
 Canadian passenger steamer Peel as it passed down the river to Og- 
 densburg. It landed for wood at what is now called Peel's Dock. 
 Our informant, then a lad living on a lonely farm, was at the pier to 
 see the great ship. A stranger warned him away, but not far off he 
 saw a little band creeping out from behind huge woodpiles and at- 
 tack the steamer. The French crew fled into the woods. A few 
 jumped overboard in their night-clothes. The brave engineer sought 
 to scuttle the steamer, but it was fired, drifted out a little way and 
 sank in forty feet of water, where it rests " unto this day." 
 
94: The Rambler. 
 
 The night attack on Deerfield, Mass., ua 1704,. for the rescue of the 
 Bell, and the terrible massacre of Wyoming, were planned on one of 
 these islands. Many of them have then- tales of terror connected, 
 with the French and English and Indian wars. No securer place 
 could be found for sudden attacks from hidden enemies in these 
 labyrinthian channels, secluded bays and wooded x-ocky islands. 
 
 The name of Bonaparte is perpetuated by a charming lake not far 
 away. The story of Joseph, the brother of the great Napoleon, and 
 his career in Northern New York is as romantic as any in its history. 
 His coming here to secure an American home for the emperor, after 
 a planned escape from St. Helena, his great domain and elegant 
 chateau, the bringing hither a Venetian gondola to sail on these 
 Western waters, the baronial establisliment of retainers and servi- 
 tors, chariots and outriders, and the royal style in which he lived 
 constitute one of the strange episodes of history. Prior to that time 
 Joseph had been to America, won the Jieart of one of its brightest 
 maidens, married her — some say a fictitious marriage — carried her 
 to France and placed her in a convent. He promised to take her to 
 court when the opportune time came. That never appeared, as 
 Napoleon had other plans for his brother. At last, with her child, 
 the mock marriage having been made known to her, she fled to 
 Northern New York. A friend saw, in eai-ly girlhood, this daughter, 
 in a home where they were both guests. She recalls a stately, 
 queenly woman, bearing a resemblance in face to the noted family. 
 
 Not far away, too, is the childhood home of the famous singer 
 Antoinette Sterling, the beauty of whose Christian character has not 
 be^n exaggerated. Her home is now in London. Many a wild 
 legend do we hear as we glide over these historic waters and listen 
 to enthusiastic informants. As to a cluster of some three hundred 
 islands of special historic interest, a charming poem was a while ago 
 issued in a French newspaper in Quebec, in which this pretty con- 
 ceit is .expressed : "After Adam and Eve had been expelled from 
 Paradise the Garden of Eden was taken back to heaven. On its way 
 thither flowers were thi-own back to earth, and these three hundred 
 islands are created from those blossoms of God." s. E. B. 
 
The Rambler. 95 
 
 The Happy Islands. 
 
 From proof sheets of Haddock's "Souvenir of the St. Lawrence." 
 
 There, where a Thousand Islands sleep, 
 Gome pulsing from Niagara's leap 
 The blended lakes with tireless sweep — 
 Vast lakes, which float the grain and ore 
 Of mighty States from shore to shore, 
 A thousand billowy miles and more. 
 
 'Tis there the centering waters meet 
 In rush sublime and beauty sweet, 
 Which we with happy thrills shall greet — 
 We who in fevered towns have sighed 
 For green and watery spaces wide, 
 And Nature's murmuring love beside. 
 
 Ah, here they are ! The river here, 
 Swift, slow, tumultuous, crystal-clear, 
 Lapping the islands which nprear 
 Their rocky heads, with crests of trees 
 Has sure enchantments to release 
 The heart and change its pain to peace. 
 
 Hail ! River of the Thousand Isles, 
 
 Which so enchants and so beguiles 
 
 With countless charms and countless wiles ; 
 
 Flow on unpent, forever free 
 
 And pauseless, to the ocean sea 
 
 Which belts the globe's immensity. 
 
 Not there our goal. Here, here we stay 
 Among the islands green and gray, 
 Nor strive, but idly float and play 
 Along the river's glints and gleams, 
 And yield to reveries and dreams 
 With which the quickened fancy teems. 
 
 Here, wliere the airs are always pure, 
 And wave and earth and skj" allure. 
 And whisper, "Let the best endure," 
 The wiser thoughts and instincts gi'ow, 
 Hearts truer feel and surer know, 
 And kindle to a tenderer glow. 
 
 St. Lawrence River, here we rest, 
 And here we end our wandering quest 
 To reach the Islands of the Blest, 
 Where Nature's sweetest sweets abound, 
 Are sacred waters, sacred ground — 
 The Earthly Paradise is found ! 
 
 George C. Bragdon. 
 
GRAND VIEW HOUSE 
 
 AND ANNEX COTTAGES, 
 GRAND VIEW PARK, Thousand Islands, N. Y. 
 
 Hourly communication by Steamer. In the center of the Famous 
 Fishing Grounds of the St. Ivawrence. Take the Grand View Park 
 Ferry-boat at Thousand Island Park Dock. R., W. & O. R. R. trains 
 connect at Clayton with Steamers landing at T. I. Park. I^ake 
 Steamers also land at T. I. Park. 
 
 P. 0. Address— Grand View Park, (Thousand Islands,) N. Y. 
 
 Transient Rates, |2.oo to $2.50 per day. Weekly Rates given on 
 application. Special Rates in June and September. Boat Ivivery 
 connected. Best Bathing Beach among the Islands. Toboggan Slide 
 and Laundry. Address 
 
 HAMILTON CHILD, Supt. of Park. 
 
HADDOCK'S HISTORY 
 
 JEFFERSON COUNTY. N. Y. 
 
 Is nmv ready for detivery. 
 
 Over 900 pages closely {)rintecl, ably writtea. and contains ir)0 plai.- 
 Pif^liT'litif portraits, "Rnrnl Sr-pnps. Vienvs of Buildings, etc. 
 
 HADDOCK'S iNTERNATiONAL SOUVENIR 
 
 INCOMPARABLE, 
 
 UNIQUE, 
 
 THE BEST. 
 
 Price, $S(,00 in pldin cloth; $5.50 in one-half leather. 
 
 Address. 
 
 JNO. A. HADDOCK, 
 
 Watertown, N, Y. 
 
 GREAT RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Grandly Illustrated, Ably Written, Well Printed, 
 Good Paper, Neat Binding. 
 
 Prices. $1.50, $2,50 and $5.00, accortling to bindituj. 
 
 Address, 
 
 JNO. A. HADDOCK, 
 
 Watertown, N. Y. 
 Or, at 1000 Island Park^ N, Y. 
 
. > -^ \ "''. ■■.■■ ^ -''y-j 'tSK'vrPV 
 
 St. Lawrence River Skiff, Canoe and Steam Launch Co. 
 
 YOU, like most other visitors 
 to the Thousand Islands, are 
 probably greatly struck with the 
 beauty, safety aud all-round 
 merits of the FAMOUS 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER SKIFF, 
 which has no equal, for Its size, 
 in the World, for ease in rowing, 
 speed and handiness in sailing, 
 safety , aud convenience for ang- 
 lers' use. We are the original 
 designers, and the only build- 
 ers of the GENUINE craft bearing 
 this name. Our would-be imita. 
 tors are very numerous, not only 
 on the St. r,awrence River. But even in such faraway States as California, Wash- 
 ington and Texas, are those who advertise to build the St. Lawrence River Skiff. 
 Every boat of any type built by us bears on bow-deck our natue-plate shield (as 
 here shown). 
 
 Wt build every class of pleasure crafts from a canoe to a steam launch, and we 
 aim to excel in every type of small pleasure craft. 
 
 We received highest possible awards at the World's Columbia Expo- 
 sition in I893. 
 
 We cordially invite any tourists to the Thousand Islands to call at our factory 
 and see our boats iu course of construction, also to inspect the fine stock of 
 different crafts we keep on hand. 
 
 We will mail our 
 
 FINEL Y IL L USTBA TED CA TALOO UE 
 
 to any address, on receipt ol application. 
 
 ©E mh JTTEMn L/^aiNClHI COnfiilNlI.. 
 
 THOUSAND ISLANDS. CLAYTON, N. Y. 
 J. G. Fraser, Manager. 
 
■■■■■iMa 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 017 397 382 2 #