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 THE 
 
 HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 ANNE L.JESSUP 
 
 AND 
 
 ANNIE E.LOGU 
 
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 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
THE 
 HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
THE 
 HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 COMPRISING METHODS OF TEACHING 
 CORD AND RAFFIA CONSTRUCTIVE 
 WORK, WEAVING, BASKETRY AND 
 CHAIR CANING IN GRADED SCHOOLS 
 
 BY 
 
 ANNE L. JESSUP 
 
 u 
 
 DIRECTOR OF HAND WORK IN THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS, NEW YORK CITY 
 DIRECTOR OF DOMESTIC ART, NEW YORK UNIVERSITY 
 
 AND 
 
 ANNIE E. LOGUE 
 
 TEACHER OF DOMESTIC ART, WASHINGTON IRVING HIGH SCHOOL 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 A. S. BARNES COMPANY 
 1912 
 

 w 
 
 COPYKIGHT 1912, 
 
 By A. S. Barnes Company. 
 
 CCLA3099^8 
 
PREFACE 
 
 Not to know at larga, of things remote 
 From use, obscure and subtle; but to know 
 That which before us lies in daily life, 
 Is the prime wisdom. 
 
 — Ruskin 
 
 This book is the outcome of many years experience 
 in teaching and supervising in public schools and in 
 normal classes. 
 
 Fully appreciating the benefit to the child of freedom 
 in the development of his creative ability, it is not my 
 wish to recommend a stilted, formal course of activities. 
 We must, however, be governed by conditions in order 
 to secure success in the introduction of manual training 
 subjects in graded schools. 
 
 The teaching of hand work to large classes is often 
 a difficult problem. The solution lies in the proper 
 method of conducting the lessons. From necessity, the 
 instruction is often on some one model for the class, 
 although individual taste should be exercised in the 
 choice of color and in the finishing and decoration of the 
 article. 
 
 The interest of the child in the exercise of his natural 
 activity is self-evident. If the directions for the lessons 
 are given with sufficient clearness to reach his compre- 
 hension, he develops self-reliance, judgment and inde- 
 pendence. The hand learns to obey the brain. The 
 
6 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 pupil becomes an intelligent worker instead of an 
 imitator. 
 
 By following the proper method of instruction the 
 necessity for individual help is minimized. 
 
 Supervision of the work of each pupil is necessary to 
 secure satisfactory results, but not individual assistance 
 in the case of normal children. 
 
 The wish to do something is innate in every child and 
 there is an instinctive feeling of pleasure involved in the 
 process. The thing to be made must be well within the 
 limits of the child's ability or he becomes discouraged 
 and loses interest. We must be satisfied to achieve suc- 
 cess at the first in the making of very simple articles. 
 Hand work is an important factor in character building. 
 The result indicates the kind of effort used, either sin- 
 cere or half-hearted. Each step shows for itself and the 
 results are visible to pupil and to teacher alike. 
 
 The present day social and economic conditions de- 
 mand vocational training. This training of hand and 
 eye should commence in the first grade and continue 
 through the period of mental and physical development. 
 
 A. L. J. 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 This sequence of hand work has been planned for a 
 three years' course. It connects the kindergarten activ- 
 ities with the more advanced construction work of the 
 primary grades, forming a foundation for sewing and 
 garment making for the girls. It is also an excellent 
 training for the more difficult forms of hand work for 
 boys. 
 
 As the motive in play is pleasure, so the motive in 
 work is practical use. The making of a finished article 
 useful either at school or home, means much more to the 
 child than an exercise without a direct aim. 
 
 Cord, Raffia and Reed with the opportunity given in 
 the employment of these materials for large muscular 
 movement are particularly adapted for children's use. 
 The work gives scope for the child's natural dexterity 
 and for the development of his constructive ability. In 
 making an article he begins at once to reason and to 
 judge. 
 
 The use of the soft pretty colors which may be 
 obtained in these materials develops an appreciation of 
 the beauty of tint and shade; while the many opportu- 
 nities for exercising originality in design train the 
 powers of observation. The pupil also learns independ- 
 ence of execution. 
 
SUPPLIES FOR THE WORK IN CONSTRUC- 
 TION AND THE METHOD OF PREPAR- 
 ING THEM FOR USE IN CLASSES 
 
 Cable Cord. Sold by the pound. A loosely twisted, 
 coarse cotton cord, white and colored. It is necessary 
 to have the latter dyed in quantities. Select soft har- 
 monious colors. It is more convenient to cut the large 
 heavy skeins once than to roll it in balls. A good means 
 of procuring the desired lengths is to wind the cord 
 around two uprights, the distance apart being the 
 desired length of the cord. Cut the skein thus formed 
 twice. 
 
 Seine Cord. Sold by the pound. A coarse twisted 
 cord. It may be bought in white and red. Cut the 
 skein once, using heavy shears. 
 
 Macreme Cord. A finer cord, usually sold by the 
 ball. It can be obtained in many attractive colors. 
 
 Flat and Round Cotton Corset Laces. Sold by the 
 gross. They must be dyed to order to obtain the desired 
 shades. 
 
 Raffia. Sold by the pound. A straw-like tough 
 fibre, the product of the Madagascar Palm. It can be 
 obtained in the natural color, bleached or dyed in various 
 shades. The natural color is sold in a large braided 
 
 8 
 
SUPPLIES FOR THE WORK 9 
 
 twist, weighing from one to four pounds. In using this 
 material, loosen the braid, and hang it from the centre 
 on a nail. Pull the strands from the top of the braid. 
 The dyed raffia comes in a loose mass. It should be 
 kept in a box or bag, as it is most important that the 
 schoolroom should not be made untidy by the careless 
 handling of these materials. 
 
 Round Reed or Rattan. Sold by the pound. It 
 may be bought in various sizes, very fine, 1 fine, 3 me- 
 dium, and 5 and 6 coarse. When using the fine numbers 
 for weavers, the whole length may be required. These 
 lengths should be coiled around and an end run through 
 the coil so as to keep it from untwisting while soaking. 
 The coarse reeds for the spokes of baskets should be 
 cut in desired lengths with pliers or shears. Tie together 
 in bundles with a piece of raffia for soaking. A large 
 pail or tub of water will serve the purpose in the class- 
 room. The reed must be soaked for twenty minutes, or 
 it will break when bent. 
 
 Flat Reed, Sold by the pound. The width varies 
 from y 8 to % inch. This may also be made pliable by 
 soaking although it is not necessary in making the ma- 
 jority of the models. 
 
 Cane. Sold by the bundle. It may be bought in 
 various sizes; fine, medium, and coarse. Use the latter 
 for binding. 
 
 Binder's Board. A heavy cardboard used to make 
 looms for weaving and forms for chair caning. A thin- 
 
10 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 ner cardboard, or the backs of school pads when avail- 
 able, may be used for frames and circles. These may 
 be cut to order at a small cost, or they can be made by 
 the children. 
 
 Cotton Warp Thread. Sold by the ounce spools. 
 It can be procured in brown, gray or black, and makes 
 an excellent foundation thread for weaving. 
 
 Rug Yarn. Sold by the pound, usually in hanks, 
 which may be cut once for convenience. It is also sold 
 by the spool. Woolen rug yarn is softer and better than 
 that made of jute. Care must be taken to procure at- 
 tractive colors. Tan, brown, and dull green are good 
 colors for the body of a rug. Harmonious colors must 
 be chosen for the design. 
 
 Dexter s Cotton. No. 8 used for weaving wash- 
 cloths. 
 
 Brass Rings. Sold by the gross, l/o in. to 1 in. in 
 diameter. 
 
 Brass Cup Hooks (Small). Sold by the gross to 
 be screwed to the back of the desk to hold the cords and 
 the chains while the children are working. These, while 
 helpful, are not absolutely necessary. 
 
 Tapestry Needles. Sold by the paper. No. 18, 
 blunt. 
 
FIRST YEAR 
 
FIRST YEAR 
 
 KNOTTING AND LOOPING 
 
 Single, Double and Triple Knots 
 Materials: 
 
 1 yd. of colored cable cord for each pupil. 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO CLASS 
 
 Place ends of cords together and find center. Hold 
 the cord at the center between thumb and first finger 
 of left hand; wind one end around the hand, crossing 
 the cords under the thumb and throwing the upper cord 
 back over the hand. This forms a ring. With the right 
 hand pull this upper cord through the ring. Pull both 
 ends to make the knot tight. (Fig. 1.) 
 
 The entire length of cord may now be knotted and 
 the knots counted when finished. The reason for begin- 
 ning at the center is because the children will have a 
 shorter length of cord to pass through the ring. 
 
 With a new piece of cord teach spacing. Suggest the 
 first space by showing a given length to the class (about 
 l!/2 in.) . All spaces should be as nearly as possible like 
 the first. 
 
 The children are now able to make a fancy chain 
 using some arrangement of single knots for design as in 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 12 
 
FIRST YEAR 15 
 
 In making a double knot follow the directions for 
 making a single knot, passing the cord through the 
 ring a second time as shown in Fig. 3. 
 
 To make a triple knot, pass the cord through the ring 
 three times ( Fig. 4 ) . 
 
 The best spacing is now secured by holding the last 
 knot between the fingers while making the next knot, 
 then pulling the ends of both cords quickly. Continu- 
 ing this method a uniform spacing of about two inches 
 is obtained. A properly made double knot will show 
 two, and a triple knot three even coils. 
 
 Fig. 5 illustrates a simple neck chain of triple knots. 
 
 Slip Knot 
 Materials: 
 
 1 yd. of cable cord for each pupil. 
 
 The slip knot may be developed from the single 
 knot. Wind the cord around two fingers and pull it 
 partly through the ring, forming a loop. (Fig. 6.) 
 
 This slip knot is useful as a means of fastening 
 articles to the chains. Made at the end of a cord it is 
 used in tying a parcel. A very simple doll's curtain may 
 be constructed with six or eight cords 14 in. long. Make 
 a slip knot 2 in. down from the end of cord and space 
 four knots on remaining length. When these chains 
 are made, slip a splint of the same color through the 
 
16 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 loops at the top and ravel the short ends. The curtain 
 should be even at the bottom and may be mounted on 
 cardboard if desired. Make two slits in each of the 
 upper corners of a card six by nine inches and insert 
 the ends of the splint. This method of mounting is 
 shown in Fig. 7. 
 
 Knotting Two Cords 
 Materials: 
 
 1 yd. of cable cord for each pupil. 
 
 Double this length and make a single knot about 2 in. 
 from the doubled end using both cords. On one of 
 these cords make a single knot 1 in. below double knot. 
 Repeat this on the other cord. Knot both cords to- 
 gether the same distance down. Continue this arrange- 
 ment, knotting the length of the cord and ravelling the 
 ends for a tassel. This exercise when finished may be 
 used for a curtain cord. (Fig. 8.) 
 
7^'G-. 7 
 
FIRST YEAR 19 
 
 Single Knot Mesh 
 
 Materials: 
 
 7 pieces of cord, 1 yd. each. 
 Cardboard 6x9 in. \ 
 
 1 splint for each pupil. 
 
 Insert the splint in cardboard for rod or use a piece 
 of cardboard shaped at the ends to keep the cords from 
 slipping off. 
 
 Find center of cord, slip doubled end under the 
 splint, pass the ends through this loop and pull down 
 tight. Loop the other cords on in the same manner an 
 even distance apart. There are now 14 cords. The 
 former method of making the single knot will not give 
 good results in this exercise. The knot should now be 
 made by holding two cords firmly between thumb and 
 first finger of the left hand the desired distance from the 
 top. With the right hand pass the two ends above 
 the thumb, forming a ring. Pull the ends through the 
 ring and tighten the knot at the point held between the 
 thumb and the first finger. 
 
 The first row of knots is made by tying the second 
 and third cords together, then the fourth and fifth are 
 knotted. Continue this tying once across. 
 
 For the second row begin with the first and second 
 cords, then tie the third and fourth and continue to the 
 end of the row. Finish each cord with five or six single 
 knots and ravel the end. 
 
20 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 This exercise makes a portiere for a doll's house. A 
 fancy chain or a single piece of cord may be used to 
 fasten the portiere back. (Fig. 9.) 
 
 Chain Stitch 
 Material H 
 
 1 yd. of cable cord for each pupil. 
 
 Tie a single knot at one end and directly below make 
 a slip knot. Fasten the cord in the desk or to a hook 
 by the knot. Hold the long cord in the left hand and 
 the loop in the right hand. Through the loop (or slip 
 knot) pull the long cord, making a new loop, and draw- 
 ing the first one tight; pull the long cord with the left 
 hand, which will shorten the new loop. Repeat this 
 process. 
 
 This exercise will produce a perfectly even chain 
 stitch. The movement downward is made first with the 
 right hand to make the new loop and draw the former 
 one in place, and then with the left hand to keep the new 
 loop from becoming too large. To finish, pull the end 
 through the last loop. An application of this exercise 
 is shown in Fig. 10. It may also be used for horse-reins 
 which will require about eight yards of cord. 
 
'mi i§^ 
 
FIRST YEAR 23 
 
 Loop Stitch 
 Materials: 
 
 1 yd. of cable cord. 
 1 splint for each pupil. 
 
 Loop stitch is here illustrated made over a pencil, 
 but it may also be taught using a splint or ruler. 
 (Fig. 11.) 
 
 Hold the pencil horizontally in the left hand, with 
 one end of the cord under the thumb, with the right 
 hand throw the other end of the cord over the pencil, 
 making what the children call " a swing." With the 
 right hand pull the long cord through the swing. Re- 
 peat for the second loop which holds the first in place 
 and continue to the end of the cord. This particular 
 exercise is called single loop stitch, and is the ground 
 work of many of the models in the second year's work. 
 It is important, therefore, that the loops should be made 
 close and even before taking up the next exercise. 
 
 One application of this stitch is the napkin ring 
 illustrated in Fig. 12. Take 1 yd. of cord and about 
 3 in. from one end make a ring around the left hand 
 holding it in place with left thumb ; cover this ring with 
 loop stitches made with the long cord and tie the ends 
 with knot. 
 
24 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Corkscrew Bar 
 Materials: 
 
 1% yds. of cable cord for each pupil. 
 
 Divide cord in thirds. Make a slip knot at one third 
 the length, fasten the loop in the desk or to a hook on 
 the desk. Place the short cord at the left and the long 
 cord at the right. Hold the short cord as a foundation 
 in the left hand and with the right make five loop 
 stitches, drawing them up at the top of cord. Pass the 
 long cord over and under the foundation cord and con- 
 tinue looping as before. This method twists the loop 
 stitches and gives the corkscrew effect. (Fig. 13.) Care 
 should be taken that the first of every group of stitches 
 be pulled close to the last stitch. There must be no space 
 between the groups of five. When the bar is 4 inches 
 long ravel the remaining length and the model will re- 
 semble a soft whip. Heavier ones may be made by 
 using two or three cords as a foundation. 
 
 Double Loop Stitch 
 
 Materials: 
 
 3 lengths of cable for each pupil. 1 yd. red, 1 yd. 
 white, third cord either red or white, 15 in. 
 long. 
 
 Tie the 3 cords together, place the short length in 
 the center and fasten the knot to the desk. With the 
 left hand hold short cord firmly, make a loop stitch with 
 
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FIRST YEAR 27 
 
 cord on right side, pull loop toward the top. Hold the 
 short cord with the right hand, make a loop stitch on the 
 left side with left cord. Continue in this manner, keep- 
 ing the work flat. (Fig. 14.) 
 
 The short or foundation cord should be changed 
 from one hand to the other for each stitch. If desired, 
 cords of the same color may be used on right and left 
 sides. The use of two colors gives a pretty effect and 
 aids in directing the work. This exercise when finished 
 may be used as a key-guard or watch-fob. 
 
 See- Saw Knot 
 Materials: 
 
 2 lengths of cable cord, 1 yellow and the other 
 brown, 1 yd. each. 
 
 Tie cords together near the ends with single knot 
 and fasten to desk. Hold the left cord in a vertical 
 position, pulling it tight. With the right hand make 
 a loop stitch with the other cord, draw up loop toward 
 the top still holding foundation cord with left hand. 
 Change positions of hands, now holding the right cord 
 firmly as a foundation and making a loop stitch with 
 the left cord. (Fig. 15.) This movement of the hands 
 up and down gives the name " see-saw " to the exercise. 
 Continue looping each cord around the other alternately, 
 producing a strong flat braid which may be used for a 
 fancy chain. 
 
28 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Spiral Chain 
 
 Material: 
 
 2 lengths of cable cord, 1 white and the other 
 green, 1 yd. each for each pupil. 
 
 Place the green cord horizontally on desk, and the 
 white cord on top vertically, crossing in the middle. 
 Take the ends of the green cord in each hand. Tie these 
 ends by passing right end over and under the left to the 
 other hand. ( Note that the right end is now in the left 
 hand and the left end in right hand.) Slip knot down 
 towards center enclosing the white cord. Repeat this 
 exercise with the vertical white cord. Care must be 
 taken to tie the knot flat and close, and directly across 
 the preceding one. (Fig. 16.) Tie the first three knots 
 on the desk in order to place them properly, after which 
 the cords may be held in the hands. This exercise may 
 be applied in making a loop for a curtain or in making 
 a whip, by doubling the vertical cord and tying the first 
 knot with the horizontal cord a short distance from the 
 doubled end. 
 
 Twine Bag 
 Materials: 
 
 12 pieces of seine cord % of a yd. in length. 
 2 pieces 14 in. long. 
 Cardboard 4% by 6 in. 
 
 Hold the card with the long edges vertical, tie the 
 
F,G- it. 
 
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 7 
 
FIRST YEAR 31 
 
 short cords round the card 1 inch from the top, the knots 
 being on opposite sides. Notches may be made on each 
 edge of the card to hold the cords in place; these cords 
 are the draw strings of the bag. 
 
 Pass one end of a long cord under these draw 
 strings, double it and one-half inch down from the top 
 make a single knot as described in the single knot mesh. 
 Six cords should be knotted on each side of the card. 
 (Fig. 17.) For the second row, knot together the right 
 and left of each double cord, not forgetting the end 
 cords which must be knotted on the edge of the card. 
 The third row of knots should be like the first row and 
 directly under it. The spacing being even and the 
 knots not more than an inch apart. After knotting 
 four or five rows remove the cardboard. Finish by 
 winding a piece of cord around all the ends directly 
 under the last row of knots, fasten with a tight knot 
 and ravel the ends to form a tassel, place a ball of twine 
 in this bag and draw the end through the lower part. 
 
 Shopping Bag 
 Materials: 
 
 16 pieces of red macreme cord, 1 yd. each. 
 
 Cardboard 6x9 in. 
 
 2 pieces of macreme cord, 1/2 yd. each. 
 
 Tie the short strings around the top of the card- 
 board as in the twine bag. Double each length and loop 
 
32 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 over the short strings at the top. Make six rows of 
 knots around the card forming the single knot mesh. 
 Finish the bottom by taking the double cord on both 
 sides below the cardboard and tying them together in a 
 single knot close to the last row. Eight knots finish the 
 bottom of the bag. Ravel cord for tassels and trim the 
 ends evenly. (Fig. 18.) 
 
 Square Picture Frame 
 Materials: 
 
 Cardboard 1x5 in.; 4 pieces. 
 Several strands of green raffia. 
 
 Smooth out each strand of raffia to resemble a nar- 
 row ribbon. Beginning with the thick end of raffia wrap 
 each piece of cardboard, very smoothly lapping the 
 edges a little, and leaving one inch at each end uncov- 
 ered. Conceal the ends underneath the wrapping, using 
 for the purpose wooden toothpicks. Avoid twisting the 
 raffia. Join the frame by pasting the four corners 
 together. A piece of raffia can be tied to the upper 
 sides for a hanger. (Fig. 19.) 
 
FIRST YEAR 35 
 
 Napkin Ring 
 Materials: 
 
 About a dozen strands of raffia, red and tan. 
 Cardboard 8x1^/2 in. 
 
 Make a ring of the cardboard, lapping one inch. 
 Cut a small slit through both edges near the ends, fasten 
 the ring by tying a thin strand of raffia round the card- 
 board through the slits. To cover the ring take two 
 pieces of raffia red and tan ; tie the thin ends with a flat 
 knot. Hold the raffia on the outside of ring so that the 
 red is on the right and the tan is on the left, the knot 
 being at the edge. Make a loop stitch with red raffia on 
 the right, and with tan on the left. Use right and left 
 hands alternately; the result will show red loops on one 
 edge and tan on the other. A new piece of raffia is 
 joined by holding the old and new ends together and 
 looping over both. Avoid joining the red and the tan 
 at the same time. To finish the ring tie the two ends 
 together with a flat knot on the inside and press ends 
 under the work. An excellent way to fasten raffia is to 
 thread a tapestry needle with the remaining end and 
 sew in and out a few times. (Fig. 20.) 
 
36 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Round Picture Frame 
 
 Materials: 
 
 A cardboard form, either circular or oval. 
 Several strands of raffia, brown and yellow. 
 
 Cover this cardboard form with double loop stitches 
 as in making the napkin ring. When the looping is 
 finished pass the threads of raffia through the frame 
 and tie with a knot which should be concealed under the 
 looping. The frame may be hung by a loop of raffia 
 or a small brass ring may be covered like the cardboard 
 frame and fastened to the top. (Fig. 21.) 
 
SECOND YEAR 
 
SECOND YEAR 
 
 KNOTTING 
 
 Sailor Knot 
 
 Materials: 
 
 V2 yd- of flat corset lace or ribbon. 
 A small card. 
 
 Place the card, which represents the collar, on the 
 desk; pass the ribbon around the card leaving the end 
 at the right longer than at the left. Pass the right end 
 over and under the left end (Fig. 23a). Pass 1 over 2 
 again (Fig. 23b), then under 3 (Fig. 23c), and down 
 through the loop 4 (Fig. 23d) . 
 
 Bow Knot 
 Material: 
 
 1/2 yd. of cable cord. 
 
 About five inches from one end make a loop without 
 crossing the cords. Hold this loop in the left hand with 
 first finger and thumb. With the right hand take the 
 long end, pass it around the loop from right to left, 
 making a small ring. Pull the cord through the ring 
 with the left hand forming a second loop. (Fig. 22a.) 
 Pull the loops with both hands, forming a tight knot. 
 (Fig. 22b.) 
 
 40 
 
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42 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 The shoe-string knot may be developed from the 
 preceding lesson. Make the first loop as for the bow- 
 knot, then pass the long end of cord twice around this 
 loop instead of once. ( Fig. 22c. ) Pull the second loop 
 through both rings and tighten. (Fig. 22d.) 
 
 This is an excellent fastening for a shoe-string as 
 it will not readily loosen. 
 
 Flat or Reef Knot 
 Materials: 
 
 2 pieces of cord, % yd. each in length, one red 
 and the other white. ,■ 
 
 Hold the white cord in the right hand, the red in the 
 left, 2 in. from the end. Cross the white over and 
 under the red (Fig. 24a). Cross back again over and 
 under the red (Fig. 24b) . Tighten the knot by pulling 
 the cords on both sides. 
 
 This knot is used whenever a strong flat joining is 
 required. 
 
 Fisherman's Knot 
 Material: 
 
 2 pieces of seine cord, each 10 in. long, one red, 
 the other white. 
 
 Place the two cords horizontally on desk, lapping five 
 inches. Tie the end of the red cord round the white cord 
 five inches from end with single knot. Tie end of white 
 cord round the red cord five inches from end with single 
 
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SECOND YEAR 45 
 
 knot. Pull the cords and the knots will run together, 
 making a secure joining. This is sometimes called the 
 kite-string knot. (Fig. 25.) 
 
 Bowline Knot 
 Material: 
 
 l/o yd. of seine cord. 
 
 Make a small ring in center of cord, holding it in 
 left hand (Fig. 26a). Pass the end of lower cord 
 through the loop from underneath, leaving a large loop 
 (Fig. 26b), then under the upper cord and down 
 through the ring (Fig. 26c). Hold the short end and 
 loop in one hand and poll the long end to tighten the 
 knot. A weight may be placed in this loop, the knot 
 becoming more secure as the strain increases. 
 
 Fig. 27 illustrates the running bowline knot. 
 
 Weaver's Knot 
 Materials: 
 
 2 pieces of cord l/> yd. each, one red and the 
 other white. 
 
 Hold the red cord in the right hand, the white cord 
 in the left hand about two inches from the ends. Cross 
 the red under the white, holding both cords firmly be- 
 tween the thumb and first finger of the left hand. Form 
 a ring by taking the long end of the red cord with the 
 right hand, passing it under the thumb, also the short 
 
46 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 red cord, holding it in place between first finger and 
 thumb of left hand. (Fig. 28a.) Pass the short white 
 end over the thumb and through the loop (Fig. 28b). 
 Tighten by pulling both white cords with the left hand 
 and the red cords with the right hand. Unless the knot 
 be pulled in place as directed it will slip. 
 
 This knot is used by weavers on account of its 
 strength and because a broken end of thread however 
 short can be securely joined to a new one. 
 
 Square Knot 
 
 Material: 
 
 2 pieces of cable cord, one red and the other 
 white. 
 
 Place the red cord vertically on the desk and the 
 white cord horizontally on top crossing at the centre. 
 Number the four ends as in Fig. 29a. Place 1 over 2, 
 leaving one-half inch loop at top. Place 2 over 1 and 3. 
 Place 3 over 2 and 4 (Fig. 29b). Place 4 over 3 and 
 down through loop at the top (Fig. 29c). Draw in 
 place by pulling the lower cords with first finger and 
 thumb of each hand, the upper cords between the middle 
 and fourth fingers (Fig. 29d) . 
 
 Repeat this exercise, commencing always with the 
 same color. 
 
 A very pretty cord may be made for a sofa pillow, 
 or the exercise may be used in making a watch-fob, 
 using flat laces instead of cord. 
 
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SECOND YEAR 51 
 
 In making a chain, a loop on which to fasten any 
 article desired, may be tied in one of the cords before 
 beginning the exercise. 
 
 Military Knot 
 Material: 
 
 1 yd. of cable cord. 
 
 Double the cord and fasten the centre to the desk. 
 With the right cord make a ring over the left (Fig. 
 30a). The left cord is woven in and out this ring; 
 over 1, under 2, over 3, under 4, and over 5, as shown in 
 Fig. 30b. Hold the loop above the knot with the first 
 finger of each hand drawing the knot in place by pulling 
 the cords with thumbs and middle fingers. 
 
 To facilitate the teaching of this knot it is helpful 
 to refer to a blackboard diagram where the different 
 points are numbered. After the knot has been made on 
 the desk the children should be able to repeat the exer- 
 cise, holding the cord in their hands. 
 
 A simple application of this exercise is a decoration 
 or fastening for a garment. This may be mounted on 
 cardboard as follows: Punch two holes in a card one 
 inch apart. Make the military knot and pass each end 
 of the cord through a hole. Fasten by tying twice on 
 the wrong side. A button may be made of two square 
 knots and fastened to the card by passing the ends 
 through a third hole opposite the military knot (Fig. 
 30c). 
 
52 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Bannister Bar 
 
 Materials: 
 
 2 pieces of cable cord 1 yd. each in length, one 
 bine and the other white. 
 
 Join the two cords by turning down one-third of 
 the bine cord making a loop; at the same place on the 
 white cord make another loop, slip the white loop over 
 the blue one (Fig. 31a) . Draw the white ends through 
 the blue loop. 
 
 Fasten this knot in the desk so that the two short 
 cords are in the center forming a foundation. The long 
 white cord should be on the right and the long blue cord 
 on the left. Place the blue cord over the short ends, 
 forming a loop which resembles the numeral 4 (Fig. 
 31b) . Pass the long white cord over the blue end, under 
 the foundation and through the loop from underneath 
 (Fig. 31c). Repeat the exercise, always making the 
 loop with the left cord. The bannister bar leads directly 
 to the Solomon's knot, the only difference being that the 
 loop is made alternately with right and left cords over 
 the foundations (Fig. 31d). 
 
 The cords for these exercises may be fastened to a 
 nine-inch piece of cardboard. The short, or foundation 
 cords, are held in place firmly by being attached to the 
 lower part of the card. 
 
SECOND YEAR 55 
 
 Bag Made of Solomon's Knots 
 
 Materials: 
 
 2 pieces of cable cord !/o yd. each. 
 16 pieces of cable cord 1% yds. each. 
 Cardboard 6x9 in. 
 
 Place the card vertically on the desk, tie the two 
 short cords around the card one inch down from the 
 top, having the knots on opposite sides. Loop eight 
 cords on each side as for the shopping bag. One inch 
 down from the top make a row of Solomon's knots, 
 using groups of four cords. In the second row of knots 
 the two cords which were used for the foundation in the 
 first row, are now used for tying. The cords formerly 
 used for tying now form the foundation. Make these 
 knots one inch below, and between the upper knots. 
 
 When six or seven rows of knots have been made 
 draw the work down so that the last row is even with 
 the lower edge of the card. Finish by making one row 
 of knots across the bottom, using two cords on the under 
 side for tying and two on the upper side as a foundation. 
 Cut the ends one inch below the last row of knots and 
 ravel the cords for a fringe (Fig. 31e) . This bag may 
 be made from strands of raffia instead of cord. 
 
 A very pretty picture frame may be made with Solo- 
 mon's knots, using two colors of raffia and tying the 
 knot over a circular cardboard foundation. One side of 
 the frame will be of one color and the other side of 
 another color. 
 
56 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Hammock 
 
 Materials: 
 
 10 pieces of macreme or seine cord l 1 /) yds. each. 
 2 pieces of macreme or seine cord % yd. each for 
 
 binders. 
 2 1-inch brass rings. 
 
 Pass one of the long cords through the ring ; double 
 it. About three inches from the ring make a single knot 
 as described in exercise for the first year; tie the re- 
 maining cords through the ring in the same manner. 
 Make eight rows of knots one inch apart. Be careful to 
 keep the mesh even. Remove the hammock from the 
 hook. Near the brass ring hold all the cords together; 
 double over four inches of the binding cord; place the 
 doubled end or loop parallel to the other cords toward 
 the hammock. Beginning at the ring wind the long end 
 of the binding cord ten or a dozen times around all the 
 cords allowing the short end to project a little near the 
 ring ; slip the end of the binding cord through the loop, 
 pull up the projecting end of the short piece near ring, 
 the long end and the loop will then slip under the bind- 
 ing. Both ends may now be cut off. Avoid drawing 
 the binding too tight or the end will not pull in place 
 beneath the binder. The other end of the hammock is 
 finished by passing all the cords through the second 
 brass ring and binding in the same manner (Fig. 32). 
 
0-.S3. 
 
SECOND YEAR 59 
 
 Round Box 
 Materials: 
 
 2 circles of cardboard, 4 in. in diameter. 
 Cardboard for side 14x1%. 
 Natural colored raffia. 
 Tapestry needle. 
 
 In the center of the circles cut out a round hole three- 
 quarters of an inch in diameter. Split the strands of 
 raffia and cover the circles with loop stitches, the loops 
 on the outer edge. One of the circles makes the bottom 
 of the box and the other the cover. Fit the strip of 
 cardboard to the bottom and lap the ends. Make a 
 small slit on both edges where the cardboard laps and 
 tie it with a thin piece of raffia. Cover this ring with 
 loop stitches, and sew to the circle intended for the bot- 
 tom. Sew with raffia through the loops on side and 
 bottom alternately. Join the cover to the top with a few 
 firm stitches and make a bow of raffia for the center 
 (Fig. 33). 
 
()() THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Square Box 
 Materials: 
 
 2 pieces of cardboard 3x4 in. 
 Cardboard for side 16xl!/2 in. 
 Natural colored raffia. 
 Tapestry needle. 
 
 Cover the oblong cardboards for top and bottom of 
 box, the short way of the card, by wrapping the raffia 
 around the card without looping. The raffia should be 
 carefully smoothed out like a ribbon and not split. Lap 
 only the edges of the raffia, keeping the work flat. To 
 finish, thread a needle with the raffia and pass the end 
 well up under the wrapping. 
 
 Cover the cardboard strip for the sides with loop 
 stitches, except one inch at each end. Measure the 
 length of the sides on the strip and bend to form the 
 corners. Lap the ends and cover with loop stitches. 
 Sew the looped edges of the side to the long edges of the 
 bottom of the box, taking a stitch through a loop on the 
 side and through a strand of raffia on the bottom. The 
 short side will stay in position without sewing. Join the 
 cover at the long side in two places with several stitches 
 (Fig. 34). 
 
l^iG-. 3<4- 
 
 T'G-. <3£~. 
 
SECOND YEAR 63 
 
 Round Box (With Sides of Flat Reed) 
 
 Materials: 
 
 4-inch circle of cardboard for bottom. 
 414-inch circle of cardboard for cover. 
 5 pieces of flat reed % in. wide, 14 in. long. 
 Natural colored raffia. 
 Tapestry needle. 
 
 Cut a round hole three-quarters of an inch in di- 
 ameter in center of cardboard circle for bottom, and 
 cover with loop stitches. The raffia should be split or 
 the center will be too thick. Fit a piece of flat reed 
 around the bottom, notch the lapped ends and tie with 
 raffia. Cover with double loop stitches. Join the raffia 
 by lapping the old and the new ends and looping over 
 them. Cover four of these reed rings, and sew together 
 to form the sides of the box, then sew to the bottom. 
 Wrap the other piece of cardboard for the cover and sew 
 a ring of reed covered with looped raffia around it for a 
 rim. 
 
 Larger boxes are attractive but are more difficult to 
 make, as it requires considerable skill to cover neatly a 
 larger circle ( Fig. 35 ) . 
 
64 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Woven Bag 
 Materials: 
 
 Cardboard .3x5 in. 
 
 3 flat corset laces, one white and two green. 
 2 lengths of laces for handle l/o yd. each, green 
 and white. 
 
 Tie the white lace around the short end of the card 
 about three inches from the top. Wind the lace around 
 the card ten times, using a loop stitch at one edge to hold 
 the lace in place. At the lower edge of the card pass the 
 lace to the opposite side and finish by looping up to the 
 top. Fasten with a knot to the upper string. 
 
 Near the first loop stitch at the top tie a green lace. 
 Using the metal end of the lace as a needle, weave over 
 and under to the lower edge of the card. Turn the card 
 and weave in the same way up to the top. Weave back 
 and forth until the strings are all covered. Fasten the 
 lace to the top string and cut off. Make a handle of 
 see-saw knots and fasten to bag (Fig. 36) . 
 
 Book-Mark No. 1 
 Materials: 
 
 1 6-inch splint, natural color. 
 3 3-inch splints, natural color. 
 1 strand of green raffia. 
 
 Lay two short splints in the form of the letter X on 
 the desk, place over these the long splint in a vertical 
 
SECOND YEAR 67 
 
 position and the third small one horizontally across. Hold 
 them in the center with the left hand, and at the same 
 time the end of a strand of raffia, back of the splints. 
 Number the splints as in the diagram (Fig. 36a). 
 Weave the raffia over 1, under 2, over 3, under 4, over 5, 
 under 6, over 7, under 8. Press the weaver, or piece of 
 raffia, towards the center each time. Having an even 
 number of spokes it is necessary to weave from number 
 1, first to the right and then to the left, each time going 
 around number 1 ( Fig. 36b ) . Finish by tying the raffia 
 to the first end, back of the splints. 
 
 Book-Mark No. 2 
 
 Materials: 
 
 1 6-inch splint, yellow. 
 
 3 3-inch splints, yellow. 
 
 Several strands of raffia, brown and orange. 
 
 Arrange the splints as in Fig. 36a. With a piece of 
 raffia weave over and under the spokes commencing 
 with number 1. When once around, tie close together 
 and trim near the knot. This is done to hold the spokes. 
 
 Tie the small ends of the brown and orange raffia 
 together with a flat knot. Place the raffia around num- 
 ber 1 (Fig. 37) the brown on top, the orange under. 
 Twist the strands and twine around 2, the orange on top, 
 the brown under. Twist again and weave around 3, the 
 brown on top, the orange under. When completed the 
 
68 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 spokes will be covered alternately with brown and 
 orange. This is called in basketry, twining or pairing, 
 and is one method of weaving with an even number of 
 spokes. Continue the weaving in the same direction to 
 the end and fasten by tying the two pieces under a 
 spoke, cutting the ends close (Fig. 37) . 
 
 Mat of Circular Weaving 
 
 Materials: 
 
 1 6-inch circle of cardboard. 
 Natural and colored raffia. 
 Tapestry needle. 
 
 One-half inch from edge of circle draw an inner 
 circle, and one diameter. Make an uneven number of 
 dots on the inner line about one-half inch apart, having 
 one at each end of the diameter. Perforate these dots 
 with a sharp pointed nail or large needle. One circle 
 properly perforated may be used as a guide in marking 
 the dots on another circle. 
 
 Thread the needle with a strand of natural colored 
 raffia, having a knot at the end. Insert the needle from 
 underneath through dot 1 (Fig. 38a), down through 2, 
 which is directly opposite (this covers the diameter of 
 the circle), up through 3, down through 4, and up 
 through 5. When necessary to join the raffia, tie the 
 two pieces together with a flat or weaver's knot on the 
 under side between two holes. When the raffia is 
 
7 
 
SECOND YEAR 71 
 
 threaded through the last hole, which is the odd one, 
 fasten at the center through the raffia with a single loop 
 stitch. 
 
 Weave by working over and under each strand. 
 When once around draw the weaver tight to form an 
 exact center and tie. Continue weaving for a distance 
 of one-half inch from the center, when a new color may 
 be added. To join a new strand of raffia commence two 
 inches back, covering and lapping the old end. Weave 
 to the edge of the circle. A pleasing effect is given by 
 using harmonious colors alternately. Remove the mat 
 by breaking the cardboard at the edge of the circle. If 
 any ends of the joined weavers show, draw them 
 through the upper side and cut close. The under side 
 next to the cardboard shows the smoother finish. To 
 secure the best results the card should be threaded with 
 wide strands of raffia and the weaving put in loosely 
 with split raffia. 
 
 Another method of preparing a card for circular 
 weaving is as follows: Make the perforations and sew 
 a half -inch brass ring in the center with four strong 
 stitches an even distance apart. Tie the small end of a 
 strand of raffia to the ring and pass down through 1, up 
 through 2, and under the ring; down through 3, up 
 through 4 and under the ring (Fig. 38b) . 
 
 A pretty handbag or pocket may be made by string- 
 ing a second card, using only two-thirds of the circle, 
 
12 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 having a ring for the center. Weave backward and for- 
 ward on these strings to the edge of the circle. Sew the 
 edge of this to a circular mat. Finish with a knotted 
 raffia handle (Fig. 38c). 
 
 A whisk-broom holder may be made by joining two 
 circular mats at the sides and finishing with a see-saw 
 chain of raffia for a handle. 
 
THIRD YEAR 
 
THIRD YEAR 
 
 WEAVING AND BASKETRY 
 
 Braiding 
 Materials: 
 
 3 pieces of cable cord, red, brown and white, 15 
 
 in., 18 in., 21 in. long. 
 3 shorter pieces to teach joining. 
 
 Tie the long cords together and fasten the knot in 
 desk. Arrange the colors in uniform order, white on 
 the right, red on the left, and brown in the center. Com- 
 mencing at the top, place the white cord over the brown, 
 red over the white and the brown over the red. Con- 
 tinue this process. ( Fig. 39a. ) 
 
 To lengthen the braid, lap a new piece of cord over 
 the end of the shortest cord and braid ; then place a new 
 piece on the next short one, braiding it in and joining 
 the third in the same way. If preferred, three strands 
 of the same color may be used designating them as 
 right, left and middle cords. 
 
 Call the attention of the children to the fact that 
 braiding is simple over and under weaving with which 
 they have been familiar in previous exercises. Instruc- 
 tions for braiding a greater number of strands may be 
 developed from this braid of three. The same principle 
 
 T8 
 
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THIRD YEAR 81 
 
 of over and under weaving is observed; first from the 
 right side and then from the left, the cords meeting or 
 crossing in the center. 
 
 In the four strand braid, weave over one from the 
 right, under one from the left, and cross in the center. 
 Repeating this weave produces an even braid. Six, 
 eight or ten strands may be woven in the same way. 
 Should the number of strands be uneven commence with 
 the over weave from both sides. (Fig. 39b.) 
 
82 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Braided Mat 
 Materials: 
 
 Raffia. 
 Tapestry needle. 
 
 Tie the thick ends together of a dozen strands of 
 raffia and fasten to desk. Make an even braid, adding 
 new strands when necessary. Three yards of braid will 
 be sufficient to make the mat. Thread the needle with a 
 thin strand of raffia. Tie the small end around the braid 
 near the top, and trim off above the knot. Form the 
 braid into a small circle, keeping the end underneath, 
 and sew back and forth four times. Continue to coil the 
 braid and sew, taking a stitch through the outer edge of 
 the coil to the inner edge of the next braid, the needle 
 passing through two braids, which should be kept per- 
 fectly flat. (Fig. 40.) The next stitch is taken by 
 reversing the direction of the needle, working from the 
 inner to the outer edge through two braids. The stitches 
 should slant slightly and should not be taken far apart. 
 
 Another method of sewing braid together for a mat 
 is as follows : Coil the braid, the flat sides touching, and 
 sew together. The top of the mat is now formed by the 
 edges of the braid. A border may be made by looping 
 the braid around the edges in scallops, securing it with a 
 stitch where it touches the outer edge of the mat. Twice 
 the length of the braid will be required to make a mat 
 of this style. 
 
7v G-.4-2.. 
 
THIRD YEAR 85 
 
 Braided Raffia Basket 
 Materials: 
 
 Natural or colored raffia. 
 Tapestry needle. 
 
 Make a braid of raffia about three-quarters of an 
 inch wide; coil and sew together as in making a mat, 
 keeping the braid flat for the bottom of the basket, 
 which is two and one-half inches in diameter. Shape 
 the sides by holding the braid upward and outward while 
 sewing. Three or four rows complete this basket, which 
 should measure about five inches across the top, and re- 
 semble a fig basket in shape. (Fig. 41.) 
 
 Braided Raffia Hat 
 Materials : 
 
 Natural and colored raffia. 
 Tapestry needle. 
 
 Make an even braid three-eighths of an inch wide; 
 coil and sew with the edges together. When the top 
 measures three inches across begin to shape the sides 
 of the crown. For this the braid must now be held down 
 and a trifle in and drawn tight while sewing. Three or 
 four rows will make the crown sufficiently high. Five 
 or six rows sewed together like the top of the crown 
 makes the flat brim. Finish at the back by tapering the 
 end, secure it under a braid and sew firmly in place. 
 Trim the hat with colored raffia. (Fig. 42.) 
 
86 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Flat Reed Basket 
 
 Materials: 
 
 12 pieces of flat reed *4 m - wide, 12 in. long. 
 
 4-inch square of cardboard. 
 
 Green raffia. 
 
 Tapestry needle and coarse linen thread. 
 
 Draw a three-inch square on cardboard, place dots 
 one-half inch apart on two opposite sides and perforate. 
 Witli a needle and thread make six stitches on the two 
 sides, commencing in the corner and sewing through 
 perforations. The thread should be doubled and the 
 stitches not drawn too tight. Fasten on the back with 
 two loop stitches. Pass six pieces of reed singly under 
 both sets of stitches, allowing an even length to extend 
 on two sides of the square. Weave six pieces of reed 
 across this set, making the ends on both sides even. 
 This forms the bottom of the basket. (Fig. 43a) . 
 
 Bend the pieces of reed upward to form the sides. 
 Make a braid of green raffia three-eighths inch wide 
 and use as a weaver, starting under a reed in the center 
 of one side and weaving once around. As the number 
 of spokes is even it will be necessary at the beginning of 
 each row to pass over two instead of one. Weave about 
 five or six rows, rounding out the sides until the top of 
 the basket measures five inches across. Leave about one- 
 half yard of the braid for the handle. Bend down one 
 reed over the last row of braid and place it inside the 
 
THIRD YEAR 89 
 
 second row. Turn down alternate reeds around the 
 basket and cut off the spokes between even with the top. 
 Take an extra twelve-inch reed, sharpen the ends and 
 insert it at each side under the braid where the weaving 
 ended. The half yard of braid left from the weaving 
 may be twisted around the handle and secured firmly to 
 the opposite side with several stitches. (Fig. 43b.) 
 
 Reed Mat 
 
 Materials : 
 
 8 spokes of reed, No. 3, 12 in. long. 
 
 1 spoke of reed, No. 3, 7 in. long. 
 
 2 weavers of reed, No. 1. 
 1 strand of colored raffia. 
 
 Make two groups of four spokes each. Lay one set 
 over the other, crossing at the center, and place the 
 short spoke with the upper group, even at one end. 
 Hold the two groups firmly in left hand, and an end of 
 the raffia. Weave the strand of raffia over the upper 
 set, under the lower set, over the third and under the 
 fourth. Repeat once around. This binds the two sets 
 together. (Fig. 44a.) While damp separate the spokes 
 into groups of two, weave over and under twice around 
 with the raffia, using the odd spoke as if it were a pair, 
 and press the weaver toward the center. ( Fig. 44b. ) 
 
90 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Separate the individual spokes an even distance 
 apart, continue weaving over one and under one with the 
 raffia until the end of the strand is reached. (Fig. 44c.) 
 Take the number 1 weaver, which has been made pliable 
 by soaking, allow the end to extend back of one spoke 
 about an inch, and weave over and under as before until 
 the mat measures four inches across. When weaving 
 avoid bending the spokes. Use the fore-finger to press 
 the weaver toward the center, being careful to avoid a 
 space between the rows. 
 
 When a new weaver is necessary join as follows: 
 Pass the end of the first weaver under a spoke, hold the 
 end of a new weaver under the same spoke and continue 
 weaving. This method of joining does not show on the 
 right side, and the next row of weaving makes it per- 
 fectly secure. 
 
 When the mat is four inches across, finish by press- 
 ing the end of weaver down between the last two rows 
 on the wrong side, allowing one-half inch to extend 
 under a spoke. Trim all the spokes an equal length — 
 four inches is required to make the open border. Point 
 the ends of the spokes. The simplest border is made 
 as follows : Select a spoke and call it No. 1 ; bend over 
 No. 2 and insert down beside No. 3. Bend No. 2 over 
 No. 3 and insert down beside No. 4. Continue this 
 method all around the mat, making the curves uniform. 
 (Fig. 44d.) 
 
7-/<?.«f 4^ 
 
THIRD YEAR 95 
 
 Round Reed Basket 
 Materials : 
 
 8 spokes of No. 4 reed, 18 in. long. 
 
 1 spoke of No. 4 reed, 10 in. long. 
 
 6 weavers of No. 1 reed. 
 
 1 strand of raffia. 
 
 Soak the reed for twenty minutes. 
 
 Make a mat as in the preceding lesson, measuring 
 about four inches across, for the bottom of the basket. 
 Turn the spokes upward one by one, bending gradually 
 so as not to break them. The final shape of the basket 
 depends on these spokes being well shaped before weav- 
 ing the sides. Keep the spokes as nearly perpendicular 
 as possible, holding the bottom toward the worker, the 
 spokes pointing outward. Weave with No. 1 reed, 
 working toward the right and keep the spokes an even 
 distance apart until a height of two and one-half inches 
 is attained. 
 
 A simple and effective finish is as follows: Trim 
 all the spokes three inches from the top, pointing them. 
 Select a spoke for No. 1, pass over No. 2, under 
 No. 3, and insert down beside No. 4. Pass No. 2 over 
 No. 3, under No. 4 and insert down beside No. 5. 
 Press the spokes close to the top of the basket. (Fig. 
 45.) 
 
96 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 A cover to fit this basket is made like a reed mat the 
 size of the top. Instead of the open border described in 
 the mat lesson, make a closed border. Work from right 
 to left. Press each spoke over one and under one, close 
 to the last row of weaving. When dry trim the ends 
 of the spokes so that each end is behind a spoke of the 
 basket. If the reed should break in making the border, 
 trim close to the basket and insert a new spoke an inch 
 deep in the weaving. 
 
 A ring attached to the center of the cover adds to its 
 finish. Take twelve inches of No. 1 reed, make a coil in 
 the center about one inch in diameter. Coil it twice 
 around then insert the two ends through to the under 
 side of the cover, and tie securely. Cut off the ends. 
 
 This basket may be made with a handle by cutting 
 the odd spoke 20 in. long instead of 10 in. When mak- 
 ing the border insert an odd spoke by the side of the 20 
 in. length of reed. Cross over the extra length to the 
 opposite side of the basket and insert in the weaving for 
 two inches. A No. 1 weaver is then rolled around the 
 handle in the following manner: Insert one end in the 
 weaving about 1 in. below the top and wind around the 
 handle at a distance of 1% in. to the opposite side. In- 
 sert from within to outside of basket and return, wind- 
 ing beside the first coil to the beginning. Repeat until 
 the handle is covered, and secure the end in the weaving. 
 
 When the basket is finished, wet it again thoroughly 
 
THIRD YEAR 97 
 
 and press in the center of the bottom. This makes a 
 firmer base. 
 
 Colored reed makes attractive baskets but it is diffi- 
 cult to procure. Many teachers of basketry dye their 
 own materials and take pleasure in producing beautiful 
 colors. 
 
 Reed baskets may also be colored entirely, or in part, 
 by painting them with a dye which comes for this 
 purpose. 
 
98 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Indian Basket 
 Materials: 
 
 5 yds. of twine 14 in. thick. 
 Raffia, red and natural colored. 
 Tapestry needle, No. 21. 
 
 Wind the cord in a ball. Ravel the end and taper 
 by cutting out one or more strands. Thread the needle 
 with thin raffia. Place the small end of the raffia on end 
 of cord, lapping one inch; beginning at the end, wind 
 over both for a distance of one and one-half inches, 
 keeping the raffia flat and smooth. (Fig. 46a.) Coil 
 this bound end into a circle, making the hole in the cen- 
 ter as small as possible, and bind where the cords lap by 
 taking four over and over stitches through the center. 
 
 The cord is then coiled and eacli row sewed to the 
 coil below as follows: Hold the work in the left hand, 
 wind the raffia twice around the cord from you, then 
 pointing the needle toward the worker take a stitch 
 through the center; wind twice around the cord and 
 again through the center until the circle is completed. 
 The second row is sewed to the coil below, not through 
 the center. ( Fig. 46b. ) Note that the foundation cord 
 must be well covered and that the number of stitches will 
 increase as the circle widens. When the center which is 
 the bottom of the basket is five inches wide, begin to 
 shape the basket by holding the cord directly above the 
 
^B3?mmm 
 
 F"/e-.<4-j. 
 
THIRD YEAR 101 
 
 last row and sew as before. In order to have the basket 
 even, begin to shape upward exactly opposite to the 
 point where the first row began. Continue sewing the 
 coils one above the other until the sides are two inches 
 high, and finish off directly above the point where the 
 shaping began by thinning out the end of the cord, sew- 
 ing over and over and hiding the end in the coil below. 
 
 To join a new strand wind the old end around the 
 cord, then wind the small end of the new strand around 
 the same place and close up to the last stitch, then sew 
 as before. If done neatly the join is not noticeable. 
 Be careful not to twist the raffia while sewing. Use the 
 needle only for the stitch, allowing the strand to hang 
 while wrapping smoothly over the cord. Fig. 47 shows 
 a completed basket. 
 
 The use of color and design are interesting and not 
 difficult even for young children. A piece of colored 
 raffia may be joined in any place and one or more rows 
 will form a band of color. This is the simplest design 
 and calls for no additional instruction. To form blocks 
 of color on the sides of a basket proceed as follows: 
 Join a colored strand and sew for a space of one inch; 
 hold the rest of the colored strand on the foundation 
 cord and join a piece of bleached raffia close up to the 
 color and sew for the space of one inch; change again, 
 using the colored strand for sewing, and keep the 
 bleached raffia on the foundation cord. Continue this 
 spacing, and on the second and succeeding rows use the 
 
102 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 colors in the same spaces. This will produce a row of 
 colored blocks all around the basket. If desired, and 
 the height of the basket will allow it, a second row of 
 blocks may be made in alternate spaces, producing a 
 checker-board effect. Variations of this design will 
 occur to the pupils themselves, who should be allowed 
 liberty in using colors and making their own designs, 
 once they understand the principle. 
 
 In this lesson cord is used instead of reed for greater 
 convenience in class room work. Reed makes a firmer 
 basket but it requires soaking and is much more difficult 
 for children to handle. The baskets may be started with 
 cord or raffia, and when the center is about one inch in 
 diameter, insert the reed. Taper both the reed and cord 
 ends and lap so as to show no extra thickness. If reed 
 is used for the beginning of the basket make it very 
 pliable by soaking, and shave the end flat rather than 
 pointed. 
 
 A cover may be made for this basket by sewing a 
 mat like the bottom about one-quarter inch larger, all 
 around. Make a rim perpendicular to the top about 
 five-eighths inch in depth, tapering the end carefully 
 when completing the basket. 
 
 Coiled Basket 
 Materials: 
 
 Raffia, green and natural colored. 
 Tapestry needle No. 21. 
 
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 a. 
 
 7^6-4-8 I. 
 
THIRD YEAR 105 
 
 Make a foundation coil about one-half inch in 
 diameter using natural colored raffia. Thread the needle 
 with a strand of colored raffia and tie the small end of 
 the strand around the foundation coil one-half inch 
 from the coarse end. Wind the raffia not too close to- 
 gether, around the coil ten times. Twist the foundation 
 coil in a small circle, keeping the end underneath, and 
 fasten securely by taking a stitch through the coil under 
 the first twist of colored raffia. (Fig. 48a.) Spread the 
 ten colored stitches an even distance apart; coil the 
 raffia and sew each row to the row underneath with the 
 same number of stitches, which will become farther 
 apart as the size of the mat increases. 
 
 To make the stitch, point the needle in a slanting 
 direction through the center of the coil, under the stitch 
 below, the needle being inserted underneath in front of 
 the colored stitch and brought out beyond on the right 
 side. The stitches in each row connect with those of the 
 previous row and radiate from the center. Avoid twist- 
 ing the foundation coil while sewing. When the spaces 
 between the stitches becomes too great (one inch should 
 be the longest space) , an extra stitch may be inserted 
 beside every second one, or wherever they are needed. 
 
 Make the bottom of the basket about three inches 
 across. To make a bowl-shaped basket place the coil 
 above and a little outside the last row while sewing, until 
 the basket measures six inches across the top. The last 
 row should be sewed directlv above the one underneath. 
 
106 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Taper the foundation coil of raffia at the end in order to 
 procure a neat finish, sewing it down gradually to a 
 point. The foundation coil must he kept the same thick- 
 ness throughout by inserting new strands in the center 
 of the coil, so that the coarser ends do not show on the 
 outside of the basket. When necessary to join the col- 
 ored raffia for sewing, tie the two ends with a flat knot 
 which may be hidden in the coil. (Fig. 48b.) 
 
 Rug Weaving 
 
 Previous to the practical lesson in weaving illustrate 
 the manner in which cloth is woven by ravelling a piece 
 of coarse material, such as burlap or canvas. The inter- 
 est of the pupils will be aroused by telling them that the 
 spider's web, the bird's nest and the sheath of a bud are 
 samples of nature's weaving. Teach them also that the 
 needs of people led to primitive weaving. Speak of the 
 development of the loom. A story of Indian life makes 
 an attractive introduction to a lesson in weaving. 
 
 By means of miniature loom, lead the pupils to ob- 
 serve that the warp strings are fastened to the warp 
 beam, that the material already woven is rolled on the 
 cloth beam, that the heddle lifts alternate threads, mak- 
 ing a shed for the shuttle to pass through ; the selvedge 
 is made by the passing of woof threads over and under 
 the end warp threads. 
 
 Oral and written language lessons on cotton, linen, 
 silk and wool are closely related to the instruction in 
 
THIRD YEAR 109 
 
 weaving and may be simple or advanced according to 
 grade. 
 
 Materials : 
 
 Heavy cardboard 6x9 in. 
 3% yds. cotton warp thread. 
 Rug yarn, green and tan. 
 A tape needle. 
 
 Make a loom from the cardboard by punching a row 
 of holes three-quarters inch down from the top and the 
 same distance up from the lower edge. These holes 
 should be three-eighths inch apart and directly opposite 
 each other. 
 
 Tie a knot about three inches from the end of the 
 warp string. ( This will be needed to secure the weaving 
 when the rug is taken off the card.) 
 
 Thread the warp up through No. 1, down through 
 No. 2, up through No. 3 and down through No. 4. (Fig. 
 49a.) Continue across to the other side threading all 
 the holes. Allow at least three inches, fastening on the 
 back of the loom to the short cord between the holes. 
 These are the warp strings and must be drawn quite 
 tight. 
 
 For the woof, cut the rug yarn in two yard lengths. 
 Commence weaving at the top of the card at the middle 
 warp string. Weave over one and under one to the 
 right side and then to the left. The selvedge or finished 
 edge is formed by the woof thread passing alternately 
 over and under the end warp threads. 
 
110 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 The woof threads should describe a curve in working 
 across the loom. (Fig. 49b.) This method gives added 
 fullness to the woof, prevents straining the warp threads 
 and will enable the weaver to keep the selvedge straight. 
 
 The weaving is done with the fingers. When work- 
 ing toward the left lift the warp string under which the 
 weaver passes with the left hand, weaving with the right. 
 When working from left to right, lift the strings with 
 the right hand and weave with the left. When it is 
 necessary to join the woof thread, lap the weavers for 
 the space of an inch, allowing the short ends to extend 
 on top, this being the wrong side. These ends should be 
 trimmed off when the rug is taken from the loom. 
 
 As soon as the children know how to weave evenly, 
 encourage the making of design. A border of another 
 color is a simple form of decoration. The width of the 
 border should be in proportion to the size of the rug. 
 An attractive border for a green rug may be made by 
 weaving two lines of tan, four lines of green, and again 
 two lines of tan. 
 
 To form a center of another color use the following 
 method: Weave a square piece in the centre on eight 
 warp strings, using a contrasting color of rug yarn. 
 (Fig. 49b.) With the foundation color weave down as 
 far as the center color and continue down one side on 
 five warp strings, that is, four which were left unwoven 
 and the one woven with the contrasting color. (Fig. 
 49c.) 
 
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THIRD YEAR 113 
 
 Notice that the warp strings at the side of the design 
 are used twice, once with the foundation color, and again 
 with the color of the design. Thread the tape needle 
 with the yarn to pass the woof thread through these 
 loops. The other side is filled in with the foundation 
 color in the same way. When both sides are even with 
 center, the remainder of the rug may be woven with the 
 foundation color. 
 
 When the children understand interweaving this 
 simple design in the body of the rug more difficult pat- 
 terns may be attempted. It is necessary to break the 
 cardboard at the holes to remove the rug. The three- 
 inch piece of warp thread left at the beginning and at 
 the end, must be woven over the end row and up into the 
 body of the rug. The woof thread should be pushed 
 sufficiently close in the weaving to form a material of 
 firm texture when taken from the loom. 
 
 Any wooden frame may be made into a loom by driv- 
 ing pegs around which to wind the warp threads. The 
 first two and the last two warp threads may be doubled, 
 thus insuring a firm selvedge. The warp strings should 
 be drawn tight enough to spring under the hand. 
 
 Fringe for the rug may be made by winding rug 
 yarn around the six-inch card, cutting the yarn at both 
 edges. Pass one of these small pieces through the edge 
 of the rug, double and tie a single knot close to the rug. 
 Follow this method at each end. 
 
 Another way of tying fringe in a rug is to double 
 
114 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 each strand, looping the doubled piece through the edge 
 of the rug. 
 
 A communal rug may be made by joining sixteen 
 rugs, size 6x9 inches. These rugs must be of uniform 
 size. A simple design is suggested in Fig. 49d. This 
 design requires eight rugs with borders which, joined 
 together, will form the border of a large one, four with 
 diamond-shaped figures to form the center and four 
 plain rugs. Sew the rugs together on the wrong side 
 with overhanding stitches, using cotton warp of the 
 same color. 
 
 Satisfactory rugs are also made by using rug yarn 
 for warp as well as woof. The warp threads may be 
 one-half inch apart, and will be covered by the woof 
 which must be pressed close together. 
 
 A different effect is obtained by placing the warp 
 strings closer together. When the material is woven, 
 the interlacing of warp and woof is plainly seen. 
 
 Rag weaving gives as much opportunity for design 
 as the use of rug yarn. The material may be old or new. 
 Cut or tear into three-quarter inch strips, join the ends 
 by lapping one inch and sewing them together. If there 
 is time and opportunity, dyeing may profitably form 
 part of the preparatory work, adding much to the inter- 
 est of the lesson and tending toward individuality in 
 results. 
 
 Use attractive colors for warp. Red warp one- 
 quarter inch apart woven with white rags will give the 
 
— — — — I I 
 
 EKE 
 
 ^i- ^P d. 
 
THIRD YEAR 117 
 
 effect of pink. Blue warp and white filling make an 
 attractive looking bath mat. 
 
 In the use of colored yarns, teach the children to 
 have one predominant color, the other colors serving to 
 emphasize the first. Make the border the strongest part 
 of the color scheme, in harmonious contrast with the 
 rest of the rug. 
 
 Dashes of color may be made at intervals of any 
 length by weaving two rows together wherever desired. 
 One row will not give the effect of a line. A white rug 
 with green border, and dashes of green here and there 
 in the body of the rug is a simple and attractive model. 
 Woven squares may be made for wash cloths, using 
 Dexter's knitting cotton No. 8. 
 
 Raffia also lends itself to this work. Use wide pieces 
 for the warp and place one-quarter inch apart. Striped 
 effects are secured by using different colored woofs at 
 intervals. Plaid effects are obtained in the following 
 way: Use green and white raffia for warp in alternate 
 groups of three strands; weave with green and white 
 raffia for equal distances to correspond with the space 
 taken up by the three warp strands. 
 
118 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 Chaie Caning 
 The first model is made on cardboard using raffia. 
 Materials: 
 
 Cardboard 8x10 in. 
 Raffia, red. 
 Tapestry needle. 
 
 Mark the top of the cardboard to distinguish it from 
 the other sides; draw a five and one-half inch square in 
 the center; place dots on four sides one-half inch apart 
 and perforate these dots. This makes a substitute for 
 the chair seat. 
 
 Thread the needle with raffia, bring the raffia up 
 through No. 1 as in Fig. 50. Draw through 2, up 
 through 3, down through 4, and continue until twenty is 
 reached. Bring the needle up through A, down through 
 B, and up through C. Continue crossing until T is 
 reached. Bring the needle up through 19 and make a 
 second set of verticals. Use the same holes as for the 
 first set until the needle is put through No. 2. Bring the 
 needle up through S. 
 
 The fourth row must be woven directly under the first 
 horizontal and under and over each vertical. Notice in 
 the diagram (Fig. 50a) that the fourth row is always 
 under the first horizontal and that it is woven under the 
 first vertical and over the second. This relation must be 
 maintained throughout or the fifth and sixth rows can- 
 not be woven in correctly. In the diagram, the third 
 and fourth rows are shaded to illustrate this point. 
 
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THIRD YEAR 121 
 
 When new raffia is needed, tie it with a flat knot 
 on the wrong side between the holes to the old piece. 
 Use wide strands. They may be kept flat or twisted 
 slightly. 
 
 Diagonals. Bring the needle up through the corner 
 U and weave over the verticals and under the horizon- 
 tals diagonally across to V (Fig. 50a). Bring the 
 needle up through T and continue weaving; passing 
 over verticals and under horizontals until one-half is 
 completed. Finish the other half by starting again in 
 the corner U and weaving to V; up through 19, across 
 to D, continuing until completed. 
 
 The sixth row is begun at W and is the reverse of the 
 fifth row ; weave over the horizontals and under the ver- 
 ticals, across to X and finish one-half. Begin again at 
 W, weave to X and continue weaving until the set is 
 finished. 
 
 The principle underlying the directions for weaving 
 the fifth and sixth rows is that these strands must fit in 
 between the verticals and horizontals, thus giving a 
 spring to the seat. If the process is reversed they will 
 cut against the verticals and horizontals and wear out 
 rapidly. If this principle is understood it is not neces- 
 sary to remember which is vertical or which is horizontal 
 in giving the instruction. 
 
 This lesson using the cardboard and raffia is prelim- 
 inary to the cane work; binding need not be taught on 
 this cardboard model but it must be included in the reg- 
 
122 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 ular chair caning. For this square wooden frames per- 
 forated similar to the cardboard model may be bought. 
 
 Use fine cane and dampen for twenty minutes before 
 using. A piece of cane is so long that it is an advantage 
 to slip it through the hole as far as the middle ; secure it 
 by placing a wooden peg through the hole and use the 
 half length at a time. This saves wear on the cane and 
 is more convenient for the children. 
 
 Keep the cane perfectly flat and fairly tight; join 
 the cane when passing from one hole to the next by 
 lapping the new piece under the old for two inches, 
 using a peg to hold it temporarily. An end may be fas- 
 tened on the back by wrapping it under and over the 
 cane between the holes. A new piece may be started in 
 the same manner. Aim to keep the back of the caning 
 neat. 
 
 Use binding cane which is about one-quarter inch 
 wide to finish the edge. Place this over the holes and 
 secure it by passing a piece of fine cane up through each 
 hole, over the binding cane and down through the same 
 hole. (Fig. 50b.) 
 
 It will interest the more advanced pupils to allow 
 them to bring chairs to be reseated. Chair seats are 
 sometimes rounded at the sides and front. In caning 
 these seats start at the center and work to the left. If 
 the seat is rounded on the sides it will be necessary to 
 skip a hole in order to keep the lines parallel. Com- 
 mence at the center and fill in the other side, skipping a 
 
// G-. <f oL. 
 
THIRD YEAR 125 
 
 corresponding hole to make both sides alike. Do not 
 soak the cane for more than a few minutes. Be careful 
 not to make the first four sets too tight as the cane will 
 shrink a little when dry. 
 
INDEX 
 
 FIRST YEAR 
 
 Knotting and Looping 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Chain Stitch 20 
 
 Corkscrew Bar 24 
 
 Double Loop Stitch 24 
 
 Knotting Two Cords 16 
 
 Loop Stitch 23 
 
 Napkin Ring 35 
 
 Round Picture Frame 36 
 
 See-Saw Knot 27 
 
 Shopping Bag 31 
 
 Single, Double and Triple Knots 12 
 
 Single Knot Mesh 19 
 
 Slip Knot 15 
 
 Spiral Chain 28 
 
 Square Picture Frame 32 
 
 Twine Bag 28 
 
 SECOND YEAR 
 
 Knotting 
 
 Bag Made of Solomon's Knots 55 
 
 Bannister Bar 52 
 
 Book-Mark No. 1 64 
 
 Book-Mark No. 2 67 
 
 127 
 
128 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Bow Knot 40 
 
 Bowline Knot 45 
 
 Fisherman's Knot 42 
 
 Flat or Reef Knot 42 
 
 Hammock 56 
 
 Mat of Circular Weaving 68 
 
 Military Knot 51 
 
 Round Box 59 
 
 Round Box (with sides of flat reed) 63 
 
 Sailor Knot 40 
 
 Square Box 60 
 
 Square Knot 46 
 
 Weaver's Knot 45 
 
 Woven Bag 64 
 
 THIRD YEAR 
 
 Weaving and Basketry 
 
 Braided Mat 82 
 
 Braided Raffia Basket 85 
 
 Braided Raffia Hat 85 
 
 Braiding 78 
 
 Chair Caning 118 
 
 Coiled Basket 102 
 
 Flat Reed Basket 86 
 
 Indian Basket 98 
 
 Reed Mat 89 
 
 Round Reed Basket 95 
 
 Rug Weaving 106 
 
APR118 19U 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
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