I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I 
 
 Iff. 
 
 m 
 
 y :<J 
 
 SUNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
MOUNTAINS, LAKES 
 
 NOKTH-WEST COAST OF ENGLAND 
 
By the same Author. 
 
 1. South Coast of England. — Guide to the South 
 
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TO THE 
 
 MOUNTAINS, LAKES 
 
 AND 
 
 NOBTH-WEST COAST OF ENGLAND 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF NATURAL SCENERY 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 MACKENZIE E. C. WALCOTT, M.A. 
 
 OF EXETEB COLLEGE, 05F0BD 
 
 LONDON 
 EDWARD STANFORD, 6 CHARING CROSS, S.W. 
 
 1860 
 
LONDON 
 PRINTED BY BPOTTISWOODE AND CO, 
 
 2fEW*STREET SQUARE 
 
 
TC 
 
 THE REV. JOHN WILSON, D.D. F.S.A. 
 
 PRESIDENT OP TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD, AND 
 CURATOE OE THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 " All places that the eye of heaven visits, 
 Are to a wise man ports and happy havens." 
 
 The present volume completes the series of Coast Guides 
 of England, which, embrace three distinct works, the South, 
 the East, and North- West Coasts. The Isle of Wight and 
 Wales form separate works by other authors. The plan 
 which I proposed to myself and have endeavoured to carry 
 out, would, it was my hope, supply a more convenient 
 arrangement, and be better adapted to the purposes of local 
 research, than those Guides hitherto offered to the tourist. 
 In addition to the Lake district, the rest of the Coun- 
 ties of Cumberland and Westmoreland, and as much of 
 North Lancashire as is included in the basin of the Lune, 
 have been described ; for Carlisle forms the chief approach 
 from the North, as Lancaster does from the South, and the 
 interesting* country hang on the east of the lakes, and ex- 
 tending northward to the border, and westward along the 
 coast-line, has been either imperfectly noticed, or altogether 
 omitted. All the public lines of communication by rail- 
 road or by sea-steamers have been prefixed, and the expen- 
 ses indicated ; while, by consulting the table of routes, the 
 visitor will be able to form his own judgment on the advan- 
 tages of the several starting points from the coast or inland 
 towns. The Introduction will afford him a general descrip- 
 tion of the entire area, its topography, the character of the 
 scenery, the localities interesting to the naturalist and 
 geologist, the history of the people, and archaeological re- 
 
Vlll PREFACE. 
 
 mains. Copious Itineraries of routes succeed to this divi- 
 sion, and practical suggestions are made to direct as well 
 the tourist, whose time admits only of a hasty visit, as the 
 more leisurely traveller, who intends to take a complete and 
 systematic view of the country. The principal and most 
 agreeable places of resort, and chief starting-points have 
 been described in detail, and every care has been taken to 
 obviate any unnecessary or irksome reference to previous or 
 subsequent pages in planning or making excursions from 
 them. For this purpose, the popular resting-places have 
 been selected, such as Broughton-in-Furness and Maryport, 
 Ambleside and Kendal, Keswick, Penrith and Carlisle, and 
 every object of interest in their immediate or more remote 
 neighbourhood mentioned, with the addition of the best 
 mode of reaching it ; whilst distinctly marked, and promi- 
 nent headings have been attached to all places where the 
 tourist is likely to make his temporary head-quarters, as for 
 instance, Paterdale, Wastdale, Ulleswater, Windermere, Low- 
 wood Inn, and Butermere ; here again a similar arrange- 
 ment has been adopted, and, wherever the subject admitted 
 of it3 adoption, an alphabetical system has been preserved. 
 The tourist will find every variety of scenery, — the pebbly 
 shore, the sands varied by blades and flowers and drifted 
 sea-weeds, and the grand rocky headland ; the long wide 
 range of heathery moors and brown fells carpeted with gol- 
 den gorse ; old castles with ramparts and moats overgrown 
 with trees and bushes, and ruins of abbeys, ancient camps 
 and grassy barrows; mountain and dale, lakes and sea, 
 green meadows and pleasant trees ; and we can only wish 
 him a bright sun to enjoy his holiday; for 
 
 u A merry heart goes all the day, 
 Your sad tires in a mile-a." 
 
 M. E. C. W. 
 
 Knightsbridge, August 1, 1860. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 General Introduction, pp. 1 — 37. 
 
 Route to the Lakes, 37 ; 43 ; and from local centres of observation, 48. 
 Hints for excursions in a limited holiday, 48. 
 
 COAST-LINE, CHESHIRE AND LANCASHIRE. 
 
 Park-gate, 57; New Brighton, 58; Birkenhead, 58; Liverpool, 59; 
 Southport, 62; Lytham, 63; Blackpool, 63; Fleetwood, 63 ; Lancaster 
 64; and excursions to Quernmore, Ashton, and Hornby, and Kirkby 
 Lonsdale, 65,-66. Morecambe, 66; Grange, 68; Holker Hall, 69. 
 
 RAILWAY, PIEL t TO ULVERSTON AND BROUGHTON AND 
 WHITEHAVEN. 
 
 Piel, 69; Rampside, 69; Dalton-in-Furness, Barrow, 70; Ulver- 
 ston, 71. 
 
 BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS, 73, 
 
 Excursions to Ambleside, 73; Birker Force; Black Combe, 74; 
 Duddon Grove; Millom, 75 ; Ravenglass, 76; Seathwaite and Cockley 
 Beck, 76. 
 
 RAVENGLASS, 79. 
 
 Excursions to Burnscar and Devocke Water ; Muncaster Castle, 80 ; 
 Wastwater, 80, 82; Strands and Scawfell Pikes, 81; Styhead Pass, 
 83; Mosedale, 84; S.Bee's by the Coast, 85; by Drigg, 85; or by 
 Calder Bridge, 88, to Whitehaven. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 WHITEHAVEN, 89. 
 
 Excursions to Egremont, 93; Wastwater, and Ennerdale Water, 93; 
 Kendal, 94; Loweswater, 94; to Bowness, by Workington, and Alionby, 
 95; Burgh-on-the Sands, and Drumburgh, 96; to Workington by rail- 
 road and road, 97; and to Cockermouth, 98; with excursions from the 
 latter into the interior. 
 
 WORKINGTON, 100. 
 
 To Carlisle by Flimby, Maryport, 100; Old Carlisle, 101; and Dal- 
 ton, 102. 
 
 AMBLESIDE, NEAR GRASMERE AND RYDAL WATER, 102. 
 
 Excursions to Stock-Ghyl Force, 104; Loughrigg Fell, 105; Fair- 
 field, Nab Scar, Wansfell Pike, 106; Coniston Lake, Ulverston; Ease- 
 dale Tarn, 107; Grasmere, 109, 113; and Rydal, 109, 110; Keswick 
 by Dunmail Raise and Thirlmere, 115; by Borrodale, 119; by the 
 Stake Pass, 118; to Langdale Pikes, lltf; Newby Bridge, 122; Pen- 
 rith, by Kirkstone, 123; to Sty Head Pass, 125; Strands and Wastwater; 
 Strands and Egremont, 126; Whitehaven, 128; Kendal, 150. 
 
 BIRTHWAITE, NEAR WINDERMERE, 129. 
 
 Excursions to Fairfield, Grasmere, Keswick, Rydal, High Street, 
 Newby Bridge, 129; Langdales, Troutbeck, 130. 
 
 BOWNESS, WINDERMERE, 130. 
 
 Excursions to Ambleside, 131 ; Low Wood Inn, with various excur- 
 sions from it; High Street, Ferry Hotel, 132; Windermere, 135. 
 
 CONISTON-WATEK, 138. 
 
 Excursions in various directions, 139, 140; to Estliwaite Water; 
 Hawkshead, 141 ; Old Man, 142. 
 
CONTENTS. XI 
 
 KENDAL, 144. 
 
 Excursions to Benson Knot; Kendal Fell, Underbarrow; Arnside, 
 147; Dallam Tower; Heversham; Leven's Hall ; Milnthorpe, 148; Sizergh 
 Hall, 149; Ambleside; Hawkshead, 150; and Coniston, 151; Hawes- 
 water, 151; Mardale Green; Nanbield Pass, 152; Penrith by Shap, 
 by road, 153, by railway, 154. 
 
 KESWICK, DERWENTWATER, 156. 
 
 Excursions to Bassenthwaite Water, 160; Borrodale, 161; Buter- 
 mere, 163; Blencathra, 167; Crummock Water, 168; Derwentwater, 
 171 ; Ennerdale Water, 174; Lowes Water, 175; Penrith, 176: Skiddaw, 
 178; Styhead Pass, 3 80; Ulleswater, 183; Paterdale, 185. 
 
 PATERDALE, ULLESWATER, 185. 
 
 Excursions to Ambleside, 186; Grisedale; Grasmere, 187; Hel- 
 vellyn, 188; High Street, 190; Ulleswater, 191; Gowbarrow Park, 192; 
 and Aira Force, 193. 
 
 PENRITH, NEAR ULLESWATER, 194. 
 
 Excursions to Brougham Castle, 196; Brougham Hall, 197; Blencowe 
 Hall, 198; Clifton Hall;Dacre; Eamont Bridge, 199; Eden Hall; Grey- 
 stoke Castle, 200; Hutton John, 201; King Arthur's Round Table, 
 201 ; Long Meg: Lowther Castle, 202; Mayburgh, 203; Whinfell, 204; 
 YanwathHall, 204; Longer excursions ; to Carlisle, 204; to Alston and 
 the neighbourhood, 205; Cross Fell, 205; Kirk-Oswald; Nunnery, 206; 
 Lazonby; Salkeld, 207; Hawes Water, 237; (with modes of return to 
 Kendal or Ambleside, 209); Hesketh Newmarket, by Castle Sowerby, 
 209; to Kirkby Stephen, 210, 214; passing the Maiden Way, 210; 
 Appleby, 212; (with places of interest in the neighbourhood) Kirkby 
 Stephen, 214; (with places of interest in the neighbourhood) Nine 
 Standards and Pendragon Castle, 215; AVharton Hall, 216; Kirkby 
 Lonsdale, 216; (with places of interest in the vicinity) to Pooley Bridge, 
 217; and Paterdale, 218, 219. To Carlisle by railway, through Old 
 Penrith, 219 ; and by road, 220; with places of interest on the route. 
 
Xll CONTENTS. 
 
 CAKLISLE, 221. 
 
 Excursions to various places, 221 ; Kirk-Linton, Stanwix, 22] ; Con- 
 stantine's Cells ; Wetheral Priory; Corby Castle, 222: Naworth Castle, 
 223; Castlesteads, 224; Gilsland Spa, 226; Bewcastle, 227 ; Brampton, 
 227; Coome Crag, 228. Worthington; Silloth; Port Carlisle, 229; 
 Netherby Hall, 230; and the Scottish Border, 231. 
 
e 
 
 e 
 
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 J 
 
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 or 
 
GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The physical Features of the District — Topography — Geographical 
 Distribution — Geology — Fossils — Mountains — Passes — Lakes — 
 Tarns — Waterfalls — Kivers — Comparative Rainfalls — Ancient Woods 
 — Flora — Natural History — Ethnology, History and Archaeology — 
 Great Families — Eminent Natives and Residents — Legends — Cus- 
 toms and Superstitions — Hints to Travellers — Observations on 
 Scenery. 
 
 The picturesque district winch contains the English lakes 
 occupies the greater portion of Westmoreland and Cumber- 
 land, and as much of Lancashire as lies to the north of Lan- 
 caster. On the north it is bounded by the valley of the 
 Eden, by the remains of the Roman wall, and the border 
 country reaching to the Sol way Firth. On the east by the 
 great Pennine range, which passes into the heart of England, 
 and by the valley of the Lime ,• the estuary of that river 
 and Morecam.be Bay form its southern limit. Its western 
 boundary is marked by the coast line, and by the marshy 
 tract formed by the rivers Duddon, Lime, Leven, and Kent. 
 Fleetwood, Lythani, and Silloth, are the only stations for 
 Hfe-boats on this coast. 
 
 Alluvial plains and grassy dales along the banks of the 
 Eden and Lime skirt the district to the N. and S. ; cold, 
 bare calcareous fells, resting upon a base of red sandstone, 
 characterise it from the N.W. to the S.E. j beds of coal, 
 which dip far under the sea, lie along the west coast for a 
 distance of 12 to 14 miles. The elevation of the interior 
 was caused by the successive upheaval and disturbance of a 
 
 B 
 
IAKE DISTRICT 
 
2 PHYSICAL FEATURES. 
 
 series of slaty and volcanic rocks. The geological centre of 
 the district lies not far from the ridge on which the three 
 counties converge • from it the fissures or faults, which 
 form the rudiments of its valleys, diverge • and thence also 
 issue the outlets for the melting snow and rainfalls, which 
 drip like tears into cup -like receptacles, the tarns (from 
 the Danish taarn, trickling), and for the great streams which 
 unite to fill the lakes that brighten the vales as well as 
 drain the upper land. By following the course of one of 
 these diverging valleys the traveller will be in a position to 
 observe the tabular, peaked, jagged or serrated rocks, the 
 anticlinal or synclinal waves, which no less mark the 
 geological epochs than give a characteristic boldness and 
 variety of contour to the scenery. Leaving the sands of 
 Kavenglass, he can trace the sylvan windings of the Esk 
 under rugged hills of granite, with occasional pillar-like 
 forms up to the gorge of Stanley-Ghyl, thence, passing* 
 westward to the slate region of Burnnioor Tarn, he may de- 
 scend the granite breast of Ling Mell and arrive among the 
 sub-porphyritic and gTeenstone rocks, which impart grandeur 
 to the head of Wastwater. At the headland of St. Bee's he 
 will leave behind him a cliff of new red sandstone, or at 
 Whitehaven beds of iron and coal, and proceeding eastward 
 by the black slate rocks of Ennerdale, he may pass the red 
 syenite of Ennerdale and Buttermere, of Bevelin Pike and 
 the Pillar, until by Scarf Gap and Black Sail he emerges by 
 the great porphyritic dyke of Mosedale, which is protruded 
 between Gowbarrow and Kirk Fell. Southward from Kes- 
 wick he may leave the granite of Skiddaw Forest, and the 
 Calden, and taking the western shore of Derwentwater, 
 follow the grassy combs and peaks of the slate hills in 
 Newland to the red felspar of Crummock, and from thence 
 mav pass to the central platform of Wastdale. On the south- 
 east, or from the head of Windermere, or westward from 
 Grasmere, he may pass over or under green or gray slaty 
 rocks suffused with veins of porphyry, until, by the crater-like 
 ridge of Bow Fell or Great Gable, he reaches the same point. 
 On the extreme east, the longer line of Ulleswater conducts 
 him from the red conglomerate hills of Dunmallet and Mell 
 
TOPOGKATHT. 3 
 
 Fell by the seamed porphyritic crags of Wanthwaite Crag 
 and the valley of St. John, by the red porpliyritic crags of 
 Theillnere, by the red felspar of Armboth Fell, by the red 
 mottled or brecciated sandstone rock of Barrow, to the 
 metamorphic rocks of Borrodale and thence by Styhead to 
 Wast dale. He may study the upper slate, contorted in 
 Black Comb or piled upon the grand heights of Howgill and 
 Middle ton Fell ; search out the granite of Skiddaw, in the 
 masses of Skiddaw and Saddleback ; pass over the beautiful 
 syenite of Carrock Fell, or track the granite of Eskdale 
 along the rugged hills that shadow the Esk and Mite. 
 From Lowwood upon Windermere or behind the ferry he 
 may trace the range of Coniston limestone, pass under 
 the green slate of the Old Man and the upper valley, scooped 
 by the Duddon, until, by the vale of Seathwaite and Hard- 
 knott, he reaches the same bourne. 
 
 By either of these five radii the traveller will be con- 
 ducted to the great irruptive centre over Wastdale Head, 
 from which the river system of the district is derived. 
 
 1. To the immediate north of this point rims the valley 
 drained by the Derwent, with its tributary the Cocker. 
 
 2. Far to the east, and separated by the ridge of Hel- 
 vellyn, lie the sources of the Eamont and Caldew, and 
 still more eastward the long valley of the Eden. 
 
 3. North and south-east, the valley of the Eden contains 
 the forks of the Brathay and Kothay, and the vales of 
 Grasmere, Rydal, Winandermere, Esthwaite. 
 
 4. To the west are the valleys drained by the Ehen, the 
 Calder, the Irt, the Mite, the Esk and the Duclden. 
 
 5. South of this tract the long promontory of Fumess is 
 drained by the Crake, the river outlet of Coniston lake, and 
 to the east rises the promontory of Cartmel, intermediate 
 between the Leven and the Kent. 
 
 The great physical features of the country may thus 
 readily be observed, the characteristic rocks, the vegetation, 
 and last of all the climate, which gives continual change 
 and expression to the scenery. 
 
 Eastward on the Yorkshire side, at Cross Fell, the phe- 
 nomena of the helm wind may be noted ; Souter Fell recalls 
 b2 
 
4 GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION. 
 
 the memory of the extraordinary aerial apparitions of the 
 last century ; subterranean streams are not uncommon ; the 
 tourist will observe along the Duddon, and under the banks 
 of the Caldew and at Stenkreth bridge, the erosive power of 
 the water in scooping shallow holes and chasms, as at 
 Caldbeck, in the limestone rocks ; and on Derwentwater and 
 Esthwaite the influence of decomposed gases which elevate 
 or depress the masses called the Floating Islands. As he 
 ascends into Borrodale he may note the prevalence of that 
 western wind which, sometimes in one night, causes 22 
 inches of rain to fall at Seathwaite and Seatollas, and 
 30 inches at Styhead. He may observe the granite boulders 
 of Dumfriesshire on the east side of Butterrnere, and 
 Ennerdale towards the west coast, and sienite of Carrock 
 near Carlisle ; and the boulders rent and drifted by glacial 
 action from Kavenglass, Ennerdale, Wastdale Crag, and 
 Shap Fells, as far as the cliffs of Yorkshire, the Solway 
 Firth, and the plains of Cheshire and Staffordshire. He may 
 muse over the tunnelled and fissured limestone rocks of 
 Lonsdale, over the striated hillsides grooved by the stream 
 of stones loosed by the melting glacier centuries ago, or on 
 the scratched rocks or ravines, of which there are excellent 
 examples on the west side of Grasmere and in the valley of 
 the Leven. He may investigate the blue rag of Keswick, 
 the basalt of Binsey, and the greenstone of Carrock ; or he 
 may speculate on the mineral wealth hidden in the hills 
 and sometimes manifest on the surface. The red iron washed 
 out and speckling the sides of Honister Crag and the Old 
 Man, has coloured the sandstone from which the mouldering 
 Abbey of Furness, the Priory Church of St. Bee's, the 
 Cathedral of Carlisle, and many of the churches of the 
 early period have been built. He may note the kidney stone 
 of Dalton and Whitehaven, the garnets studding the meta- 
 morphic slates of Scaw Fell, the green copper in Coniston, 
 the calcareous spa of Helvellyn, the silver in the lead mines 
 of Ul vers ton and Derwentwater, the black and grey shell- 
 clouded marbles in the beds of the Kent and Lune, and the 
 brachiopoda, encrinites, and triclobites in the limestone 
 upon Windermere and Coniston. He may find agate, 
 
GEOLOGY. 
 
 opal, and chalcedony on Scaw Fell and Helyellyn, in Borro- 
 dale, Eskdale, and Paterdale. 
 
 GEOLOGY. 
 
 Gold has been found on Alstone Moor, 1000 feet above the level 
 of the sea, and the cradle of the Tvne and Tees; in 1765 a shepherd 
 found a lump weighing 181bs. Brickhill, near Speldry, has been 
 noticed as a locality for gold; auriferous veins exist throughout the 
 Snowdonian series of mountains ; gold is found on Exmoor and Dart- 
 moor, and in all the stream tin works of Cornwall. The Mendips, 
 Cheshire and Lancashire have been named as gold districts. Cumber- 
 land, however, is the great auriferous region ; it is found at Bassen- 
 thwaite, Borrodale, Buttermere, Caldbeck Fells, Goldscoop, High Ireby, 
 and Keswick, and throughout the southern border from Alstone to the 
 sea; at Buttermere in ferruginous earth lying on the surface of the 
 clay slate and greenstone slate; at Bassenthwaite and Peel Wyke in 
 reddish earth lying on clay slate; at High Ireby and Goldscoop in the 
 hard gossan; at Keswick in iron pyrites. Mr. Irton of Ireby, M.P., 
 found a piece of gold in a pullet which he was carving. The dead 
 mules in Mexican mines are dissected and silver is often found in their 
 stomachs; instances of fowls swallowing gold in Brazil and in Australia 
 have been given on unimpeachable authority. Gold was worked at 
 Newlands by a German till Queen Elizabeth interfered with the rights 
 of the Earl of Northumberland. Lead mines, the property of 
 Greenwich Hospital, are situated on Aldston Moor; copper mines at 
 Aldston, Coldbeck, Loweswater and Wythburn; lead and silver 
 are found at Greensides and Eagle Crag in Paterdale, and between 
 Skiddaw and Saddleback; and iron ore at Egremont. The names of 
 Goldscope and Silver How refer to their production of these metals. 
 The strata of the lake district take a convex form, bent into innumerable 
 curves, and composed of slaty rocks containing organic remains and which 
 enclose the lakes, and are bordered by a raised belt of coal, limestone, 
 grit and new red sandstone, flanked by plains of old red sandstone. 
 These strata are broken by faults, and in the convulsion which produced 
 them, granite and porphyry, in a melted state, have filled up the hol- 
 lows and changed the sand and clays into rocks known as metamorphic. 
 The slate rocks which reach from Skiddaw forest to the neighbour- 
 hood of Kirkby Lonsdale, are divided into Skiddaw slate, green-roof nsj 
 slate and porphyry, Coniston limestone and flagstone, and dark-coloured 
 slate and flagstone, and Coniston grit. Lower slate occupies the area 
 between the middle slate and carboniferous zone from Ulleswater to 
 Egremont. Dent Hill and Saddleback and the limestone hills of Cock- 
 ermouth, Egremont and Hesketh Newmarket, are included in it. Caw- 
 sey Pike, Grassmoor Fell, Blencathra, Skiddaw, and the hills near 
 Crummock and Loweswater are composed mainly of argillaceous slate, 
 with veins and iaminas of quartz. Granite is found in the vale of the Cal- 
 dew, greenstone at Binsey, syenite and felspar occur on Carrock Fell; 
 and with porphyritic dykes in Hi^h Pike; and in Syningill are found 
 b 3 
 
O GEOLOGY. 
 
 gneiss, mica schist, hornblende, and blue clayey slate with crystals of 
 chiastolite. Veins of lead are found on Dent Hill and near Lewes water; 
 copper on Skiddaw, and both metals at Carrock Fell and High Pike. 
 Barscale Fell produces good slate. 
 
 Middle or Skiddaw Slate. — Green slate and porphyry occur 
 in the area between Egremont, Keswick and Broughton, Coniston 
 Water Head, and Low Wood, reaching to Long Sleddale; it rests on a 
 red spotty clayey rock, the best points of observation being by Langdale 
 from Ambleside to Borrodale; it extends to Coniston Water Head 
 through Tilberthwaite; grey tinted rocks are seen at the head of Borro- 
 dale and Ulles water, near Devocke water and Grasmere, and grey or 
 green rocks on Coniston Fells and in Langdale. In Borrodale and near 
 Grasmere, beds formed of nodules of chalcedony are intermingled with 
 the slate. Syenite and porphyry occur in St. John's Vale; subporphyritic 
 rocks compose a great part of Scaw Fell and Great Gable, and are found 
 in the passes from Borrodale to Grassdale, Langdale, and Wast water, 
 and those from Langdale to Eskdale. Brecciated rocks form the pre- 
 cipices that frown over the passes of the inland dales and at the head of 
 Kentmere. The finest dyke of granitic porphyry or elvan may be seen 
 at Kirk Fell in Wastdale Head, in the channel of the Duddon, and the 
 adjoining hills, and on the north side of Black Combe. Syenite mainly 
 composes Red Pike, Irton and Muncaster Fells, and Nether Wastdale; 
 red felspar is found on Armboth Fell and in Ennerdale, and hyperthene 
 on Carrock Fell. Granite intervenes between Wastwater and Stones- 
 head Fell. Borrodale produces black lead; Dreggeth, suiphuret of 
 lead mixed with silver; Grisedale, galagna; Eskdale, micaceous iron 
 ore; and Tilberthwaite, suiphuret of copper. 
 
 Upper Slate. — Coniston limestone lies between Broughton in Fur- 
 ness, and Shap Fell, and traverses Frontbeck, and Long Sleddale; it is 
 mingled with shale beds and abounds in fossils. Roofing slate, over- 
 lapping the limestone, is found at Kirkby Ireleth, and flags occur near 
 Ambleside; the series of hard slate intervenes between Bowness and 
 Low Wood Inn, Coniston and Hawkshead, and is found in Long Sled- 
 dale and Kentmere. Shap Fells are formed of porphyritic granite. 
 
 Old Eed Sandstone — occurs at the lower end of Ulles water, 
 forming a succession of round-topped hills, and in the Lune Valley 
 above Kirkby Lonsdale, and old red conglomerate in the Mint Valley, 
 Kendal; the latter composes the mass of Dunmallet and Mell Fell. 
 
 New Red Sandstone — forms a curve reaching from the neigh- 
 bourhood of Allonby to Kirkby Stephen, follows the line of shore by the 
 estuan- of the Duddon and Low Furness, from Morecambe Bay to St. 
 Bees' Head, reappearing at Maryport, and filling the basin of the Eden 
 from Brough to Solway Firth. It can be studied near Furness abbey, 
 on the banks of the Caldew, St. Bees' Head, and quarries near Carlisle, 
 and contains fossil rhyncosaurus and chirotherium. Coniston lime- 
 stone and calcareous slate fill up the interval between Shap Wells and 
 Duddon bridge, their average thickness being 300 feet, and that of the 
 Coniston flag 1500 feet, the Coniston grit underlies the Ireleth slate, 
 which covers a tract 6 or 7 miles broad. Magnesian limestone and 
 
GEOLOGY. 7 
 
 conglomerate may be studied in the quarries between St. Bees and 
 Whitehaven, and at Stenkreth bridge; and lower red sandstone at 
 Whitehaven cliffs. 
 
 Lower Limestone —pervades the lake district; it is found at 
 Cockermouth, Cleator, Egremont, resting on lower slate; Greystock, 
 Lowther, Kendal, resting on upper silurian; Kirkby Lonsdale, Miln- 
 thorpe, Orton and Shap, it overlies middle slate near Hesketh New- 
 market ; and forms the scars, knots, and fells. Columnar portions of 
 encrinites, corals, fish teeth and fin bones, bivalves, univalves, and 
 other shells and corals are found. At Kirkby Lonsdale and Conis- 
 head it is hollowed into caves and terraces. Carbonate of copper 
 occurs at Ulverstone, and haematite at Dalton in Furness, and at 
 Cleator. 
 
 Upper Limestone — intervenes between Lowther and Cockermouth, 
 and is found near Dalton and Kirkby Lonsdale; it yields many fossils, 
 black and grey marble, and flagstones. 
 
 Coal, — covered by new red sandstone, extends from St. Bees 
 to Maryport, ending in the interior at Rosley Hill, and yields fossil 
 ferns, calamites, gigantic reeds, lepidodendra, tree ferns, sigillarise 
 and stigmarias, creeping plants with sharp leaves. It is found also at 
 Tindal Fell, Talkin and Blenkinsop, Gilcrux, Oughterside, Arkleby, 
 Bolton and Hewer Hill. Millstone grit forms the mural crown of 
 Ingleborough, resting on shale limestone, and Nine Standards, and is 
 found near Hawes. Great Scar limestone, full of organic remains, shells, 
 and corals, forms the terrace of Whitbarrow and the rocks of Kirkby 
 Lonsdale. 
 
 Fossils. — 72 Cambrian fossils and 98 silurian fossils have been 
 found in the district, including, in the upper slate of Kendal and 
 Kirkby moor, aviculse, meristomyag, nucula, selenocurtus Fished, 
 cingulata, and asterias pnmseva ; in the hills from Crook to Under- 
 barrow and near Ferry House, Winandermere, terebratula navicula ; in 
 Low Furness (silurian), graptolites ludensis, g. cyathophyllum, favorites 
 alveolaris, orthoceratites, cardiola interrupta, encrinite stems and 
 corals ; near Kirkby Lonsdale, trinucleus Caractaci ; near Ireleth, in 
 slate, tetracrinites ; in Coniston limestone, catenipora, chain-coral; and 
 in the Coniston flag (upper silurian), creseis, cardiola interrupta, tri- 
 lobites, graptolites ludensis; and in the grit, orthoceratites subundu- 
 latus, o. ibex and trilobites. The more abundant species are, of Cam- 
 brian, orthis, 10; spirifera, palseopoia, leptEena, and orthoceras, 5; of 
 strophomena, of graptolites, and cycloceras, 3 ; of silurian, pterinea and 
 orthoceras, 8; grammysia, 5; cycloceras, leptodanus, anodoptopsis, 
 ceratiocaris, uraster and spengarium, 3. 
 
 Height of Mountains. — The Cumbrian mountains cover a 
 surface of nearly 700 square miles, reaching from N. to S. 37 miles, 
 and from E. to W. 35 miles. Helvellyn, 3,055 feet; Grasmere Fell, 
 2,765; Saddleback, 2,785; Skiddaw, near Keswick, to be ascended 
 from Keswick, 3,072; Bow Fell, 2,911 ; Scaw Fell, 1,366 ; Scaw Fell, 
 b 4 
 
O GEOLOGY. 
 
 near Eskdale and Wastwater, 3,100; Cross Fell, near Aldston, 2,901; 
 Pillar, near Wastwater, 2.893 ; Black Comb, near Duddon Mouth, to 
 be ascended from Broughton, 1,919; Dent Hill, near Egremont, 1,160; 
 High Pike Caldbeck Fells, near Hesketh Newmarket 2,101; Mell 
 Fell, 1,000; Scilly Bank, near Whitehaven, 500; St. Bees' Head, 222; 
 Causey Pike, 2,030; Honiston Crag, Buttermere, 1,700; Wans Fell, 
 1,590; Kendal Fell, near Kendal, 648; Whenfell Beacon, 1,500 ; 
 Benson Knott, 1,098; Fairfield, 2,950; Kydal Head, 2,910; Great 
 Gable, Wasdale, 2,925; Pillar, Ennerdale, 2,893; Red Pike, Butter- 
 mere, 2,750; High Street, Kentmere, 2,700; Grisedale Pike, 2,680; 
 Coniston Old Man, 2,577; Hill Bell, 2.500; Harrison Stickle, Lang- 
 dale, 2 ; 400; tike of Stickle, 2,300; Pine Standards, 2,136; Caniock 
 Fell, Caldbeck, 2,110; Causey Pike, 2,030; Lords' Seat, 1,728; 
 Latrigg, Keswick, 1,160; Loughrigg Fell, 1,108; Penrith Beacon, 
 1,020; Cat Bell, Newlands, 1,448. Helm Crag can be ascended from 
 Grasmere ; High St., from Kentmere, Paterdale or Troutbeck, Grise- 
 dale Pike, from Keswick; Fairfield, Loughrigg Fell, and Wansfell 
 Pike, from Ambleside. 
 
 Passes. — Sty Head, from Borrodale to Wastdale, 1,250 feet, 
 traversable on horseback ; Hause, between Buttermere and Newlands, 
 1,160 feet, by carriages, and by Borrodale, 1,100 feet, also by- 
 carriages; Kirkstone, between Keswick and Ambleside, and Dunmail 
 Eaise, 720 feet, by carriages; Eskdale Hause, and Nan Bield, from 
 Kentmere to Mardale, are traversable on foot only ; as also Black Sail, 
 Wastdale to Ennerdale, Black Scarf, and Stake, from Langdale to 
 Borrodale ; Walney Scar, and Wrynose Gap, are traversable on 
 horseback. 
 
 The Lakes — abound in trout, pike, and perch: Ulleswater in eels and 
 skellies; Ulleswater, Buttermere, Windermere, Crummock and Enner- 
 dale in char; Bassenthwaite contains salmon, on their way to the 
 rivers ; Derwentwater produces vendace. 
 
 Tarns — containing trout and eels: Over- water, UldaJe; Burn 
 Moor, Miterdale; Wadling, High Hesketh, containing also carp; 
 Talkin, Hayton; Martin, W T igton; Red Tarn, Helvellyn, is 2.400 feet 
 above the sea. 
 
 Waterfalls. — Barrow, Keswick, 122 feet; Lowdore, Keswick, 
 150; White Water Dash, N. ofSkiddaw; Scale Force, S.W. of Crum- 
 mock Water, 160; Aira Force, Ulleswater, W. side 80; Skelwith Force, ; 
 Eydal Waterfalls, 70; Stock Ghyl Force, Ambleside, 70; Dungern 
 Ghyl, Langdale, 90; Colwith Force, 5 miles from Ambleside, 90; 
 Stanley Ghyl, or Dalegarth Force, Eskdale, 62; Birker Force, 65; 
 Dayler Ghyl, near Wasdale; Sour Milk Force, Easedale, 60. 
 
 Rivers. — The Derwent rises in Borrodale ; the Eamont flows from 
 Ulleswater, and receives the Lowther from Hawes water and Long 
 Sleddale, but falls into the Eden, having first absorbed the Peterel 
 from Greystocke, and the Caldew from Skiddaw. The Greta is 
 formed by the St. Johns Beck or Bure, from Thiolmere; and the 
 
FORESTS. y 
 
 Glender'amakin, from Mungrisdale, is called Glenderaterra between 
 Skiddaw and Saddleback, and joins the Derwent. The Cocker, formed 
 by the junction of streams from Buttermere, Crummock, and Lawes 
 water, falls into the Derwent at Cockermouth. The Ellen, rising in 
 the mountains N. of Skid i' aw, flows by Ellenborougb, into the sea at 
 Maryport. The Kent, rising in Kentmere, after receiving the Sprint 
 from Long Sleddale and the Mint from Bannisdale, unites with the 
 Bela at Milnthorpe. The Bratha, flowing from Ellerwater, and the 
 Rothay, from Rydal and Grasmere, unite in Windermere, from which 
 they issue in the single stream of the Leven, and join the Crake from 
 Coniston at Penny Bridge. The Duddon, rising on the S. of Scawfell, 
 enters the sea at Ravenghu s, where the Irt, from Wastdale, and the 
 Mite, from Miterdale, join it. The Lisa flows from the N. side of 
 Gabel into Ennerdale wat< r, from which it issues as the Ehen, and 
 flows into the sea near Eavenglass. The Duddon, forming the 
 boundary of Cumberland from Lancashire, rises on the south of 
 Bow Fell, and enters the sea near Walney Island. 
 
 The Rainfall in 1859 was the following in the various locali- 
 ties :— Cartmel, 447 ; Kendal, 48*3; Wray Castle, 68*2; Ambleside, 
 84-1; New Troutbeck, 94'9; Keswick, 66'9. 
 
 Forests. — At the head of Ulleswater by the Lowther, 
 along the Eden and the Colder, by the banks of Rydal 
 Mere, and in the vales of Tilberthwaite and Eurness, the 
 traveller may still note the remains of those goodly forests 
 which once covered the country, glades of oak and beech 
 and wild thorn, brakes of fern and gorse, under and amid 
 which, among the heather, the red and fallow deer, wild 
 swine, and all manner of beasts of chace once swarmed and 
 were hunted. The forests of Nicol and Copeland, westward 
 of Skiddaw and Caldeck, and Stainmore and Inglewood, 
 where, in a few days, Edward I. killed 200 bucks, and Robin 
 Hood hunted, exist no longer ; the squirrel would find it diffi- 
 cult to leap along the tree tops, without touching the ground, 
 for even a mile of the modern way, leading from Wythbum to 
 Keswick or from "Windermere to Thesthwaite Slack in 
 Troutbeck. If the country is still so grand in the barren 
 majesty of its mountains, and so beautiful in the silver loveli- 
 ness of its lakes, what must it have been when it was replen- 
 ished with the giants of the forest, and when every expanse of 
 water was the mirror to rich and ample woods. On June 13, 
 1823, an oak fell that had stood 600 years in "Wragniere Moss. 
 The names onlv remain of the forests of the mountainous 
 
10 FORESTS. 
 
 tracts, — Milburn near Cross Fell, Lime, Whinfield, Martin- 
 dale, Thornthwaite, and Mallerstang near Pendragon, now 
 mere waste heaths. The king's forest of Geltsdale, and 
 that of Spade Adam are only desolate tracks, and the trees 
 have been rooted out from Nieol Close to the Cheviot Hills, 
 the scene of many a border fight. The old ballad of 
 Chevy Chase is founded on the fact of the barons riding 
 out to hunt with an escort of armed men. So lately 
 as 1720, black-mail was extorted by the wild inhabitants of 
 these border districts. In the earliest times, the whole region 
 was covered with woods, except where the Romans made 
 clearings for camps and roads. Afterwards the monks of 
 Furness sent out their husbandmen and herdsmen to till the 
 land and form pastures, and gradually they penetrated 
 higher up the hill sides, and further into the dales, and so 
 the forest began to disappear. In later years the lords of 
 the manor converted the timber into money, and the farmers 
 stubbed up the woodlands for the growth of corn, and these 
 clearances have left a scarcity of trees. With a lamentable 
 want of foresight, large tracks of rocky soil were laid bare 
 in the last century, only a few patches of holly and ash 
 being preserved for the purpose of feeding the cattle and 
 sheep on their sprouts in the higher enclosures. When 
 a call for bobbins was made, for the supply of the new 
 spinning machines, coppices were again fostered for shelter 
 to the flocks and the supply of wood ; and human dwellings 
 and tilled lands followed in lonely districts. From Win- 
 dermere bobbins are sent to Lancashire and Yorkshire, to 
 Ireland and Scotland, to Belgium and the United States. 
 Close round the Wans Fell and Windermere there are now 
 five bobbin-mills; at Stavely, Troutbeck, Hawkshead, 
 Skelwith- and Ambleside. 
 
 Yews, however, and ash trees are still standing from 
 which the dalesmen who went to Agincourt and Cressy, or 
 followed a Clifford, a Fleming, a Lowther, in the Wars of 
 the Roses, may have shaped a bow or shaft of spear. Still 
 luxuriantly the ash trees droop over the ruined windows of 
 Furness, oaks of ample girth shadow the sward in the 
 parks of Rydal and Lowther; notable are the yews of 
 
BOTANY. II 
 
 Borrodale and Paterdale, Lorton, and Yewclale. Fraternities 
 of silver firs make a pleasant twilight on these hills, here 
 and there shedding a ruddy hue from their trunks over an 
 old monastic grange. The thorns, hazels, and willows, are 
 notched and polished, and fashioned into sticks for tourists ; 
 the charcoal is not burned, nor the oak logs bound into 
 faggots for the great hall, nor for the abbot's or prior's 
 hearth, it goes to the Elterwater powder mills, to the 
 bobbin mills of Ambleside or Skelwith, or the furnaces of 
 Coniston or Dalton. 
 
 Botany. — The Flora of the country is still rich, in spite 
 of the incursions of over-covetous botanists. On Winan- 
 demere there are holms or islets covered with self-sown 
 lilies of the valley, banks of wild daffodils glow on the 
 wooded banks of Grasmere, or dance in the wind that 
 ripples the surface of Ulleswater. The lanes and walls are 
 still feathered with ferns and mosses ; the fells are cushioned 
 with moss-campion, the parsley-fern sheds its luxuriant 
 tufts along the eastern banks of the Brathay; by the fall of 
 Lordore grows the scented woodruff. The osmimda regalis 
 enriches the outlet of Byasmere, and the noli-me-tangere 
 gives a special character to Stock Ghyl. Dappling every 
 hillside, lichens may be classed from the grey and red of 
 Dunmail Eaise up to Scaw Fell where they turn to pure 
 gold. 
 
 « 
 
 Alloriby. — Triglochin maritimum, Epipactis ensifolia, Scirpus mari- 
 timus, Elymus arenarius, Brassica monensis, Arenaria peploides, 
 Geranium sanguineum, Eryngium maritimum, Glaux maritima, Atriplex 
 laciniata, Euphorbia Paralias, Triticum junceum, T. loliaceum, 
 
 Ambleside. — Hypericum Androssemum, H. elodes, Rosa bractescens, 
 Peucedanum palustre,Pyrola media, Juricus filiformis,Festuca calamaria, 
 AreDaria peploides, Drosera longifolia, Impatiens Noli-me-tangere 
 (Stock Ghyl Force), Hymenophyllum Wilsoni, Pyrola media, Polypodium 
 Phegopteris, Hypnum flagellare. 
 
 Arnside. — Brassica oleracea, Veronica spicata. 
 . Barrow Cascade. — Hypericum Androssemum. 
 
 Bewcastle. — Cnicus eriophorus. 
 
 Birkdale. — Arenaria verna,Rubus Chamaemorus, Saxifraga hypnoides, 
 Gentiana verna, Elyna caricina, Juncus triglumis. 
 
 Blackpool. — Cochlearia danica, Cnicus eriophorus. 
 
12 BOTANY. 
 
 Booth Sands. — Glaucium luteum, Cakile maritima, Linum angusti- 
 folium, Erythraea littoralis, E. latifolia, Convolvulus Soldanella, Solanum 
 nigrum, Neottia spiralis, Eiyngium maritimum, Salsola Kali, Zostera 
 marina, Statice Limonium, Euphorbia Peplus. 
 
 Borrodale. — Drosera longifolia, Viola lutea, Rubus suberectus, Al- 
 chemilla alpina, Prenanthes muralis, Saxifraga aizoides, Myosotis csespi- 
 tosa, Oxyria reniformis, Salix pentandra, Asplenium septentrionale, 
 Taxus baccata. 
 
 Bowness. — Nuphar lutea, Nymphaea alba, Helleborus viridis, Woodsia 
 ilvensis. 
 
 Brigsteer M oss. -^-Hottonia palustris, Suim angustifolium, S. inun- 
 datum, S. repens, Andromeda polifolia, Utricularia minor, Apium graveo- 
 lens, Aquilegia vulgaris. 
 
 Brough. — Salix Meyeriana, Blysmus compressus. 
 
 Buttermere. — Ulex nanus. 
 ■ Cartmel. — Astragalus glycyphyllos, Helianthemum canum, Tamus 
 communis, Allium Schcenoprasum , Utricularia minor, Juncus filiformis, 
 Verbena officinalis. 
 
 Cochermouth. — Cerastium tetrandum, Arenaria serpyllifolia. 
 
 Coniston. — Trollius europseus, Impatiens Noli-me-tangere, Lobelia 
 Dortmanna, Geranium sylvaticum, Ornithopus perpusillus, Spiraea 
 salicifolia. 
 
 Coniston Fells. — Saxifraga stellaris, S. aizoides, S. hypnoides. 
 
 Cross Fell. — Epilobium alsinifolium, Draba incana, Rhodiola rosea, 
 Saxifraga stellaris, Galium pusillum, Cochlearia officinalis, Arenaria 
 verna, Empetrum nigrum, Sesleria caerulea. 
 
 Crosby Ravensworth. — Linum perenne, Polygonum viviparum. 
 
 Derwentwater. — Ranunculus aquatilis, R. fluitans, Arundo Calama- 
 grostis, Thalictrum majus, Trollius europaaus, Teesdalia nudicaulis, 
 Silene maritima, Rosa spinosissima, Circaaa alpina, Galium boreale, 
 Hieracium paludosum, Lobelia Dortmanna, Campanula latifolia, Myosotis 
 sylvatica (S. Herbert's Isle), Utricularia intermedia, Littorella lacustris, 
 Allium oleraceum, Juncus iiliformis, Eleocharis pauciflorus, Carex 
 bin er vis. * 
 
 Dunmallet. — Stellaria nemorum, Pyrola minor, Calamagrostis 
 epigejos. 
 
 Dunmail Raise. — Meum athamanticum. 
 
 Egremont. — Eleocharis acicularis, Plantago media, Humulus Lupulus. 
 
 Ennerdale. — Callitriche pedunculata, Eleocharis multicaulis, Lysi- 
 machia vulgaris, Strati otes aloides, Apargia autumnalis, Hieracium sa- 
 baudum, Carlina vulgaris, Subularia aquatica. 
 
 Ferry House, Winandermere. — Meconopsis cambrica, Galium boreale, 
 Hypericum Androsasmum. 
 
 Furness A bbey. — Atropa Belladonna. 
 
 Furness Fells. — Chrysosplenium alternifolium, Polypodium Dry- 
 optecis. 
 
 Flimby. — Cynoglossum officinale, Glaucium luteum, Aspidium 
 lobatum. 
 
BOTANY. 1 3 
 
 Fairfield. — Silene acaulis, Hieracium dubium, Luzula spicata, 
 Juncus triglumis. 
 
 Grange, Foulshaw Moss. — Drosera anglica, D. longifolia, D. rotun- 
 difolia, Gentiana Pneumonanthe, Scirpus maritimus, Sparganium 
 nutans, Utricularia minor, U. vulgaris, Vaccinium Oxy coccus, Verbascum 
 Thapsus. 
 
 Great End. — Thalictrum alpinum, T. minus, Silene acaulis. 
 
 Gosforth. — Grammitis Ceterach, Ancbusa sempervirens, Trifolium 
 filiforme. 
 
 Gilsland. — Prunus Padus, Rubus saxatilis, Cardamine amara, Lepi- 
 dium Smithii, Trollius europseus, Saxifraga aizoides, Pyrola minor, 
 Primula elatior, Salix pentandra, S. radicans, S. Smitbiana, Eriophorum 
 pubescens, Imperatoria Ostrutbium, Scbcenus nigricans, Carex limosa, 
 Melica nutans, Oranus arvensis, Equisetum variegatum. 
 
 Hallen Fell, Ulleswater. — Corydalis claviculata, Cocblearia officinalis, 
 Teesdalia nudicaulis, Hypericum montanum. 
 
 Harrington. — Hyoscyarnus niger, Atriplex laciniata. 
 
 Eeversham. — Convolvulus arvensis, Cynoglossum officinale, Malva 
 sylvestris, Trifolium fragiferum. 
 
 Eelvellyn. — Thalictrum alpinum, Silene acaulis, Salix berbacea, 
 Saxifraga stellaris, S. nivalis, S. aizoides, S. palmata, Juncus triglumis 
 (Striding Edge: Oxyria reniformis, Rbodiola roseola, Saxifraga platype- 
 tala, Listera cordata, Cerastium alpinum), Cochlearia danica, Alche- 
 milla alpina^, Carex rigida, Pyrola secunda, Saussurea alpina, Juncus 
 triglumis, Eriophorum vaginatum, Rhynchospora alba, Carex rigida, 
 Cystopteris angustata, Arenaria maritima, Bryum mnioides. 
 
 Henisby, Maryport. — Brassica monensis, Geranium sanguineum, 
 Litbospermum maritimum, Euphorbia Paralias. 
 
 Kendal. — Epipactis latifolia, E. palustris, Euonymus Europgeus, 
 Latbraea squamaria, Ranunculus auricomus, Ancbusa sempervirens, 
 Bidens tripartita, Campanula latifolia, C. Trachelium, Carex vesicaria, 
 Colcbicum autumnale, Comarum palustre, Convallaria majalis, C. Poly- 
 gonatum, Campanula Tracbelium, Corydalis claviculata, Drosera longi- 
 folia, D. anglica, Arenaria verna, Viola lutea, V. palustris, V. birta, 
 Geranium sylvaticum, Vicia sylvatica, Rosa tomentosa, R. spinosissima, 
 Pyrus Aria, Prunus Padus, Ribes alpinum, R. petrseum, Sedum anglicum, 
 Cbrysosplenium alternifolium, Myrrhis odorata, Galium pusillum, Hy- 
 pochoens maculata, Senecio saracenicus, S. sylvaticus, Gnaphalium 
 dioicum, Sium latifolium, S. inundatum, Galeopsis versicolor, Calamintba 
 officinalis (Castle), Acinos vulgaris, Primula elatior, P. farinosa, Gagea 
 lutea, Allium arenarium, A. Schoenoprasum. Melica nutans, Geum rivale, 
 Cardamine amara, Coronopus Ruellii, Ebamnus catbarticus, R. Frangula, 
 Opbioglossum vulgatum, Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus, Sanguisorba offici- 
 nalis, Monotropa Hypopitys, Parnassia palustris, Spergula nodosa, Stel- 
 laria nemorum, Habenaria bifolia, H. chlorantha, H. viridis, Inula Hele- 
 nium, Equisetum byemale, Tanacetum vulgare, Eupatorium cannabinum, 
 Lycopus europEeus, Polypodium vulgare, P. Pbegopteris, Luzula pilosa, 
 Parnassia palustris, Opbrys Nidus-avis, 0. muscifera, Geranium Robertia- 
 num, Hyoscyarnus niger, Silaus pratensis, Orchis latifolia, 0. maculata, 
 
14 BOTANY. 
 
 Rubus saxatilis, Paris quadrifolia, Tamus communis, Origanum vulgare, 
 Sanicula europaea, Botrychium Lunaria. 
 
 Kendal Fell. — Arenaria verna, Asarum europium, Asperula cy- 
 nanchica, Cystopteris fragilis, Daucus Carota, Grammitis Ceterach, 
 Gentiana Amarella, G. campestris, Gnaphalium dioicum, Scolopendrium 
 vulgare. 
 
 Keswick — Lepidium Smithii, Hypericum elodes, Rosa gracilis, R. 
 cinnamomea, Senecio viscosus, S. saracenicus, Pyroia media, P. secunda, 
 Meum athamanticum, Thalictrum minus, Aspidium dilatatum, A. 
 spinulosum, Corydalis claviculata, Drosera anglica, D. longifolia, Hy- 
 pericum montanum, Prunus Padus, Comarum palustre, Cireaaa alpina, 
 C. lutetiana, Ribes rubrum, R. petragum, Athyrium ovatum, Lysimachia 
 nemorum, Saxifraga nivalis, Cicuta virosa, (Enanthe Phellandrium 
 (Portinscale), Andromeda polifolia, Scutellaria minor, Rumex scutatus, 
 Orchis ustulata, Convailaria multiflora, Geranium phaeum, G. Pyrenai- 
 cum, Utricularia intermedia. 
 
 Kirhby Lonsdale. — Saponaria officinalis, Hypericum dubium, Stel- 
 laria nemorum, Hieracium paludosum, Salix Smithiana, S. Weigeliana, 
 S. tenuifolia, S. Croweana, Allium oleraceum, Galium boreale, Geranium 
 phasum. 
 
 Kirlcstone. — Saxifraga aizoides, S. stellaris, S. muscoides, Cochle- 
 aria danica, C. officinalis, Hypnum crista castrensis, Zygodon Man- 
 gestii, Grimmia spiralis, G. torta. 
 
 Langdale Pike, — Hieracium alpinum, Lycopodium annotinum. 
 
 Latrigg. — Viola lutea. 
 
 Liverpool shore. — Brassica Monensis, Pastinaca sativa, Pyrethrum 
 maritimum, (Enothera biennis, Carex extensa. 
 
 Ijowdore. — Asperula odorata, Galium cruciatum, G. palustre, G. 
 verum, Polygonum Hydropiper, Thalictrum majus, Lepidium Smithii, 
 Cardamine amara, Allium arenarium, Sparganium natans, Sedum Tele- 
 phium, Luzula Forsteri. 
 
 Lowther. — Epipactis grandiflora, E. ensifolia. 
 
 Long Sleddale. — Alcheinilla alpina, Rhodiola rosea, Lycopodium 
 selaginoides, Saxifraga stellaris, S. hypnoides, S. aizoides, Epilobium 
 alsinifolium, Meconopsis cambrica, Oxyria reniformis, Allium carinatum, 
 Aspidium Oreopteris, Cryptogramma crispa, Gnaphalium dioicum, Ru- 
 bus Chamasmorus. 
 
 Loughrigg. — Primula farinosa. 
 
 Loweswater. — Eleocharis palustris. 
 
 Maryport. — Arenaria peploides, Anthyllis vulneraria. 
 
 Naddlebeck. — Typa latifolia, Ranunculus Lingua, Cystoptera den- 
 tata, Sparganium ramosum. 
 
 Newlands. — Statice Armeria, Potentilla alpestris, Saxifraga aizoides, 
 Myosotis repens, Lythrum Salicaria. 
 
 Newby Bridge. — Colchicum autumnale, Geranium columbinum, 
 Serratula tinctoria, Lepidium Draba. 
 
 Orten. — Bartsia alpina, Blysmus compressus. 
 
 Paterdale. — Hieracium dubium, Corydalis claviculata, Anagallis 
 tenella. 
 
BOTANY. 15 
 
 Penny Bridge. — Veronica spicata. 
 
 Penrith. — Orobus sylvaticus, Galium boreale, Vaccinium uligino- 
 suin. 
 
 Pooley Bridge. — Rosa gracilis, R. tormentosa, Galium boreale, Va- 
 leriana dioica, Ulex nanus, Saxifraga tridactylites, Ancliusa sempervirens. 
 Ravenglass. — Centunculus minimus, Erythrsea latifolia, Cochlearia 
 danica, Daucus Carota, Salicornia herbacea, Glaux maritima. 
 
 Rydal. — Rhamnus Frangula, Rubus Koehleri, Typha angustifolia, 
 Convallaria multiflora, Sedum album, Melampyrum sylvaticum, 
 Diphy^icum foliosum, Orthotrichum aristatum, Bryum Zierii. 
 Scatcfell. — Statice Armeria, Salix herbacea. 
 Strands. — Sedum anglicum. 
 Scale Hill. — Sambucus Ebulus. 
 
 Skiddaio. — Thlaspi alpestre, Saxifraga stellaris, S. aizoides, Vacci- 
 nium Vitis-idaea, V. Oxycoccus: Empetrum nigrum, Salix herbacea, 
 Carex rigida, Viola lutea. 
 
 Scout Scar. — Pyrus Aria, Sedum anglicum, Geranium sanguineum, 
 Hypericum hirsutum, H. montanum, Hippocrepis comosa, Sesleria 
 cserulea, Asplenium viride, Aspidium aculeatum, Helianthemum canum. 
 Polypodium Droypteris, Potentilla fruticosa. 
 
 St. Bees. — Ranunculus aquatilis, Brassica Monensis, Trifolium stria- 
 tum, Inula dysenterica, Atriplex laciniata, Veronica Anagallis, Lycop- 
 sis arvensis, Statice spathulata, Scleranthus annuus, Chelidonium 
 majus. 
 
 South-port. — Silene anglica, Pyrola rotundifolia, Euphorbia Portlan- 
 dica, E. Paralias, Cakile maritima, Cochlearia officinalis, Vaccinium 
 Oxycoccus, Gentiana Pneumonanthe, Chlora perfoliata, Erythraea lit— 
 toralis, Bartsia viscosa, Statice Armeria, Chenopodium maritimum, 
 Salsola Kali, Ammophila arundinacea. 
 Stye Head. — Saxifraga stellaris. 
 Swineside. — Radiola Millegrana. 
 
 Shap. — Cnicus heterophyllus, Hieracium Lawsoni, Polygonum vivi- 
 parum, Carduiis nutans, Campanula glomerata, Poterium Languisorba. 
 Sesleria casrulea. 
 
 Thirlmere. — Peucedanum Ostruthium, Hesperis matronalis. 
 Troutbeck. — Actaea spicata, Carduus heterophyllus, Weissia tenui- 
 rostris. 
 
 Ulloch. — Rhynchospora alba, Rhamnus Frangula, Luzula campes- 
 tris, Urtica urens. 
 
 Ulverstone. — Corydalis solida, Rosa bractescens, Circaea alpina. 
 Ullesicater. — Ranunculus circinatus, Phragmites communis, Ga- 
 lium boreale, Allium oleraceurn (Holm-house), Thalictrum majus, 
 T. minus, Alchemilla alpina, Lobelia Dortmanni, Arbutus Uva-ursi, 
 Actaea spicata (Sandwick), Helianthemum canum, Arenaria peploides, 
 (Placefell), Rubus Chamaamorus, Hieracium paludosum. 
 Wallow Crags. — Rosa spinosissima, Pyrola secunda, 
 Wansfell. — Lathrrea squamaria, Primula iarinacea. 
 Walendlath. — Habenaria arida, Menyanthes trifohata, Orchis lati- 
 folia, 0. pyramidalis, Equisetum sylvaticum. 
 
16 GEOLOGY. 
 
 Wastdale Screes. — Saxifraga hypnoides, S. oppositifolia, Tha- 
 lictrum majus, Arabis petrasa, Potentilla fruticosa, Gnaphaliuni dioicum. 
 
 Whinlatter. — Rosa gracilis, Callitriche verna. 
 
 Whiibarrow. — Melampyrum sylvaticum, Verbena officinalis, Mentha 
 piperita, Plantago media, Sesleria caarulea, Cypripedium Calceolus, 
 Ceterach officinarum, Asplenium viride, Osmunda regalis, Polypodium 
 calcareum, Potentilla verna, Asperula cynanchica, Arabis hirsuta, Hy- 
 pericum hirsutum, Geranium sanguineum, G. pratense, Inula Conyza. 
 
 Windermere. — Lobelia Dortmanni, Tamus communis, Convallaria 
 majalis, Allium carinatum (Seamew Crag), Helleborus viridis, Ehamnus 
 catharticus, R. Frangnla (holms), Myriophyllam verticillatum, M. spi- 
 catum, Potamogeton prselongus. 
 
 Whitehaven. — Lathyrus sylvestris, Lotus tenuis, Crithmum mariti- 
 mum, Lithospermum maritimum, Statice spathulata. 
 
 Workington. — Gentiana campestris, Juncus uliginosus, Allium 
 vineale, Trifolium officinale, T. ornithopodioides, Atriplex patula, Ranun- 
 culus hirsuta, Ballota nigra, Leonurus cardiaca, Salicornia procumbens, 
 Scirpus maritimus , Veronica hederifolia, Lithospermum maritimum, 
 Fedia olitoria (Moresby), F. dentata (Frisington), Rottbollia incurvata, 
 Anthriscus vulgaris, Lonicera Xylosteum, Camelina sativa, Andromeda 
 polifblia. 
 
 Yet overhanging Theilmere and Derwentwater there are 
 crags which bear names of the eagle and the falcon. There 
 are fells which tell of roes and antlered harts of grease ; 
 dales, and meres, and glens, which record the time of 
 wolves and wild boars, the white-tailed vulture and 
 peregrine falcon; and, in the mosses, that remarkable 
 feature of the northern counties, the teal, are found in 
 Cumberland. The dotterel frequents Skiddaw, and the 
 water-mew Devokewater ; the buzzard loves the moor, the 
 heron and wild duck haunt tarns, the hawk hovers over 
 the valleys, grouse may be shot on the heaths, and wood- 
 cock in woods and on commons near the lakes. The last 
 eagle was seen not long since in Kirkstone Pass ; these 
 birds had long an eyrie in Borrodale, but were driven by 
 the shepherds into Seathwaite and Eskdale. The names 
 Catstycam and Catbells recall the period when wild cats 
 frequented the mountains. There is a dove crag in Coniston 
 Fells, in Eskdale and Paterdale ; an eagle crag in Borrodale, 
 Buttermere, and Patterdale ; a falcon crag near Derwent- 
 water, and a raven crag in nearly every dale. Wild boar fell 
 in Mallestang forest and Borrodale. Grassmoor and Grasmere 
 
HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 17 
 
 "preserve the name of the gris or wild swine. Red deer 
 are still found in Martindale. The horns of the segh deer 
 were found at Duddon sands in 1766. 
 
 Thousands of sheep, of the old Danish breed, crop the 
 short fine herbage of the fells, or crouch together under 
 the lea of glossy hollies, which the old shepherds planted 
 along the folds of the hills. Ancient salt-pits may still be 
 seen; meres and fish-ponds abound in char, such as the 
 Romans loved, in the Bratha, in Derwentwater, and in 
 Coniston; the rare vendace is still an inhabitant of 
 Bassenthwaite, which derives its name from the bassen or 
 perch, and the skerry of Ulleswater. Salmon are found in the 
 Derwent, the Eamont, and the Lune, and the finest carp 
 in Wadling tarn. At Rydal there are creeks sheltered 
 from winds, and reedy avenues, pleasant to the wild swan 
 and mallard, on Derwent and Elterwater ; the raven has 
 a favourite crag in Yewdale, and the bright eyes of the 
 fox and the squirrel sparkle from under the gorse that 
 clothes the sides of Helvellyn, or the coppice woods that 
 hang on the banks of the Derwent and Windermere. 
 
 From the natural features and products of the country 
 the traveller may pass to its history. He will find evidence 
 of early British occupation in the names of Helvellyn, 
 (Bel's Hill), Blaze Fell and others ; in the custom of the 
 need fire, in the round fort of Green Castle, under Dun 
 Fell, and Castlesteads near Yanwath wood; in the 
 druidical temple overlooking the vale of St. John, remains 
 only inferior to Stonehenge and Abury ; in the circle of 
 Long Meg and her daughters near Penrith ; in a smaller 
 mound on Black Combe at Devocke Moor, and the Druid's 
 Cross on Lowther Scar ; at Yanwath on the Eamont, and 
 the cock stones of Ellenbeck ; in the stone avenue on Shap 
 Fell, known by the name of Karl Lofts, and the Druids' 
 temple of Gunnerkeld ; and in the Menhir or stone pillar 
 of Helton Copstone. The cairns of Pooley Moor, and 
 Dunmail Raise ; the flint battle-axes and funeral urns 
 found in Borrodale, and still to be seen in the museum 
 of Keswick ; numerous barrows on the Eden, espe- 
 cially the ^ve known as the Giants' Graves at Burnbank 
 c 
 
18 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 Common, near Haweswater; near Sandford camps and 
 at Sayle, near Great Asbey ; the enclosed circles of Tebay, 
 on the banks of the Lime, of Mayburgh, and that bearing 
 the name of King Arthur's Round Table at Penrith, 
 Constantine's cells at Wetherall, and the ruins of Pen- 
 dragon Castle, are significant of this period. 
 
 A very curious chapter on mythology might be written 
 on the text furnished by the remains of altars built in these 
 districts by the Roman mercenaries, raised to Silvanus by 
 the huntsmen of the banna ; Coccidius (Mars) ; Astarte, 
 the Tyrian Hercules ; Mithras and Victory ; the Genius of 
 Maryport ; the discipline of Augustus ; Epona, the goddess 
 of jockeys; the Valkyrien, Dese Matres transmarinise ; to 
 Vitires and Magontis; to Belatricadrus, perhaps Mars; 
 Setlocenia, Maponus, Gadrenus, Ceajus. 
 
 Of Roman conquest there is proof in the traces of many 
 roads, stations, and coins, and other antiquarian remains. 
 Ancient Cumbria formed a part of the imperial province of 
 Maxima Csesariensis, extending from the Humber to the 
 Tyne. At Dunmallet and at Ambleside, near the head of 
 Windermere, a station may be traced, and bronze eagles 
 have been found. Thence a military road led along the 
 side of High Street, by the Kirkstone Pass, and by Ulles- 
 water, to Dacre and Penrith. From the station of 
 Broughton in Purness, a line of road conducted to Wast- 
 dale by Hardknott, where there are remains of a camp 
 and mound, over the Styhead to Castle Crag in Borrodale, 
 thus commanding the pass of the Derwent. Another 
 Castle Crag, the site of a Roman fort, is found in Mardale. 
 Along the eastern bank of the Derwent, beyond Rosth- 
 waite, may be traced earthworks, and, on the western 
 bank of the lake, a distinct way which led to Caermote, 
 an important camp. West of this lay the several forts of 
 Pap castle, Bridekirk ; and to the north Aspatria and Old 
 Carlisle ; more northward still was the earthen ramparts 
 built by Hadrian, in 121, and on the same site the stone 
 wall of Severus, in 210, reaching from the Solway to the 
 Tyne. On the east, the Maiden Way, a branch of Watling 
 Street, a road bearing the name of Waetling, a king of the 
 
HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 19 
 
 Saxon mythology, passed from Whitley Castle to Shap, and 
 so crossed oyer the fells to Lancaster. 
 
 In the museum at Keswick, at Lancaster, and at Kendal, 
 numerous remains may be seen which attest the extent of 
 the Roman civilisation \ among which bronze eagles, heads 
 of spears, altars, gold and silyer coins, and an enamelled 
 sword, foimd in a pass near Keswick are worthy of notice. 
 Eastward from Carlisle, along the Newcastle and Carlisle 
 Pailway, the site of the great wall may be traced ; and at 
 Lazonly it may be seen rising to the height of several feet. 
 Parts of the castles of Carlisle, Appleby, and Lancaster, 
 bear the trace of the Caesars. Carlisle was probably no more 
 than a commissariat depot and halting-place of the legions. 
 The more important stations were at Papcastle, at Caermote, 
 at Old Carlisle and Penrith ; at EHenborough, a treasure- 
 house of altars and inscribed stones, and at Maryport. 
 Brough was the Verterse ; Bird Oswald the Amboglanna ; 
 Appleby, Aballaba; Kirkby-thore, Brovonacae; and Carlisle, 
 Luguvallum of the Romans. Sites, or earthworks, exist at 
 Bowness, at Drumburgh, at Burgh- on-the-Sands, and at 
 Dalston-on-the-Caldew. The Poman troops employed 
 here and in the adjoining districts were principally com- 
 posed of foreigners : — Tungrians at Housesteads and 
 Great Cambeck ; Nervians (Belgians) at Ambleside, Whit- 
 ley Castle, and Ellenborough ; Barcarii and Tigrienses 
 (Moors), at Moresby ; Dalmatians at Carvoran ; Moors at 
 Watch Cross ; Asturians (Spaniards) at Benwell and Ches- 
 ter ; Batavians at Carrawburgh ; Frixagi at Potchester ; 
 Spaniards at Iftirgh-on-the-Sands ; Gauls at Chesterholm. 
 On the retreat of the Pomans, the Picts and Scots ravaged 
 the country, and traces of their violence are visible on the 
 gates of Maryport. 
 
 Passing from the Poman occupation, at the date of 
 the Heptarchy, when Cumbria for some time formed a 
 kingdom in connection with Strath Clyde, the boimdary of 
 the realm extended from Dunbarton (Dim-Breton, the 
 Britons' fort) to the sources of the Pibble. The S.W. 
 portion of the district received the name of West-mere 
 land, the land of the west lakes, or Westmoringa, which, as 
 C 2 
 
20 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 some will have, to mean the west moor land. In the fast- 
 nesses of the hills, which still keep their noble Celtic names, 
 under Blencathara or Glaramara, Helvellyn or Catsdecam, 
 by Penrith or Penruddock, by Glencoin or under Maiden 
 Mawr, the Kyrnri maintained themselves against the 
 Angle conquerors of Northumbria. 
 
 Romance tells us how, that in Cumbria, Rhoderic the 
 Superb reigned, and Merlin prophesied ; how King Arthur 
 held his court in merry Carlisle, and Peredar reigned in 
 Strath clyde, the " Prince of Sunshine," one of the great 
 heroes of the " Mabinogion." The Welsh of the present day 
 preserve the language of the Cumbrians ; whose dependen- 
 cies extended into Yorkshire, on which side the Angles 
 held Leeds as their frontier town. 
 
 The tribe of the Guendota, ruled successively by Mailgown 
 and the well-known Cadwalla, occupied Westmoreland, 
 Cumberland, and the northern part of Lancashire. 
 
 Argoed was the name of the strip of mountains dividing 
 Northumberland from the Tweed basin and Cumberland. 
 
 The British inhabitants were known as Sestuntii in Cum- 
 berland and Westmoreland ; as Yoluntii on the west coast 
 of Lancashire ; Gadeni in Cumberland, northward of the 
 Irthing ; in the interior from the Mersey and the Humber 
 to the Solway Firth, as Brigante, a wild and independent 
 people, the original race who had been driven inland by 
 invaders and foreign settlers ; and their dependents on the 
 borders of the Irish Sea Iugantes and Cangi. Platius 
 Ostorius Scapula was recalled from an expedition against 
 the latter to the assistance of the worthless Cartismandua, 
 the traitress who gave up the heroic Caractacus, and the 
 divorced wife of Vencesius, against her late subjects; the 
 war with the Brigantes lasted from a.d. 50 to 78. The 
 Yoluntii at length settled in County Down, and the 
 Brigantes in Wexford, having been compelled to give way 
 before the Celt and Teuton, and crossing the sea to foimd 
 colonies in the neighbouring island. The Cyniri on becom- . 
 ing Britons of the south, were then called by the Angles 
 Weales, strangers, as the Teutons called new tribes of the 
 continent Welsh or Walloons, 
 
HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 21 
 
 Carlisle was conferred upon St. Cuthbert and the see of 
 Lindisfame, by Egirith, King of Northimibria, who con- 
 quered Furness 670-85. Ulleswater, Ulphakirk, and 
 Ulverston, derive their names from Ulf, the Northumbrian 
 noble who afterwards consigned these lands to the Arch- 
 bishops of York by the tenure of a horn still preserved in 
 their minster. The hermitage of St. Herbert, the friend of 
 St. Cuthbert, in Derwentwater, and several Cumbrian 
 churches dedicated to St. Cuthbert, St. Oswald and St. 
 Kentigern, bespeak an Anglian or Northumbrian influence. 
 The dedication of the churches to St. Patrick and St. 
 Ninian and the name of Patrick (Pater) Dale, point to 
 another influence. In the middle of the 9th century, the 
 Cumbrians placed themselves, as dependants, under the pro- 
 tection of Gregory of Scotland. The word Cumbri first 
 occurs in Ethelwerd's Chronicle, and is applied to the 
 Britons of Strathclyde, c. 875. 
 
 Until the 10th century Cumbria was governed by petty 
 kings in subordination to a pendragon or chief monarch. 
 Edward the elder compelled the Cumbrian prince to ac- 
 knowledge his supremacy, and Athelstane of Northunibria 
 entered Cumberland at Dacre to compel the Scottish king- 
 to surrender the fugitive prince Griithred. Dunmail was 
 a Celtic prince of Strathclyde of this period. The old 
 chronicler tells us that in 945, Edmund, the successor of 
 Athelstan, the Saxon Bretwalda, summoning to his aid 
 Leoline, king of South Wales, expelled Dimmail from his 
 kingdom, defeating him on Dimmail Raise, and blinding the 
 eyes of his two sons. The last Britons then retreated into 
 Wales ; he himself is said to have died a pilgrim at Home. 
 Edmund conferred the sovereignty of Cumbria on Malcolm 
 king of Scotland, whose successors grounded upon this 
 grant their subsequent claim to hold Cumbria as vassals of 
 the English crown, the eldest sons of the Scottish king 
 taking the title of Princes of Cumberland ; a dignity still re- 
 served, imder the title of Duke, to the English princes of the 
 blood. The Moot Hill near Brampton denotes the place of 
 meeting of the local government of the Saxon period. The 
 c 3 
 
22 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 Eune-inscribed crosses, and the Giant's Grave at Penrith, 
 are of this date. 
 
 A peaceful immigration and colonisation of Cumberland 
 and Westmoreland by Scandinavian settlers, apart from any 
 incursion of Northmen from Northumberland, took place in 
 the 10th century. In 875 an invasion, properly Danish, 
 was made from Yorkshire and Lincolnshire ; but this ap- 
 pears to have contained more of the Norwegian element. 
 In 966 Thored, the son of Gunnar, ravaged Westmoreland. 
 About 990, it is believed, that Olaf, the sea-rover of Norway, 
 visited Cumberland and Wales, as is recorded by Snorro 
 Sturleson. The colonists came from the north, and estab- 
 lished themselves in the Isle of Man, finally, making settle- 
 ments as far southward as Pembrokeshire, where Haver/on?- 
 west, and Milford (Norwegian fjord, an arm of the sea), 
 yet bear Norwegian names. Carlisle, destroyed by Danes 
 in 870, was not rebuilt until the reign of William Kufus. 
 
 During the Saxon Heptarchy, while Cumberland was 
 nominally attached to Northumbria, a chieftain ruled over 
 the district administering a code known as Danish law. 
 King Ethelred in 1000 totally devastated Cambria. 
 
 Por three hundred years a dynasty reigned in Northum- 
 bria, and, after the Norman conquest, continued to hold 
 Northumberland, Cumberland, and Westmoreland, counties 
 omitted in Domesday Book, as not belonging to England, to 
 which it was annexed by Henry III. in 1237. In one of 
 Wordsworth's ballads, there is an evident allusion to the tra- 
 dition of the old Vikings, in the legend of the dell of the 
 Danish boy clad in his regal vest of sable fur. Near Devocke 
 Water are shown traces of a Danish village, those of Ulf- 
 by, Melmer-by and Thorkill-by, are said to have derived 
 their names from three sons of the Dane who built them. 
 The country folks aver, that the grey-faced, hornless, small, 
 enduring Herdwick sheep, peculiar to the mountains at the 
 head of the Esk and Duddon, were originally introduced by 
 the wreck of a Danish ship off the coast ; another form of 
 the old tradition. Certainly these flocks lt stand starving 
 better than any other sort," as was said by the secretaiy at 
 the Ptoyal Agricultural Society's exhibition at Carlisle ) for 
 
HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 23 
 
 the sheep walks are so overstocked by the farmers having 
 right of mountain pasturage, that it is wonderful how even 
 these hardy animals can exist. They are named Herdwick, 
 because farmed out to herd at a yearly sum. 
 
 The most characteristic names of the lake district and 
 those of the south of Norway, are very similar, if not identi- 
 cal, and concur in differing from the nomenclature of the 
 northern districts of Norway. Thurs-by, near Carlisle, com- 
 memorates the idol Thor ; Hoff Eow and Common, near 
 Appleby, come from the old Norse Hof, a temple, and the 
 Hoff Lund, from Lunds, a grove ; Byn-wald, Porting-scale, 
 Legber-thwaite, Mont-ay (like the Saxon Caermoie) probably 
 denote sites of legislative and judicial assemblies, which ter- 
 minated in games and sports, a relic of which remained in 
 the races run till recent times from the base of one of two 
 mote hills to the summit of another. Durdom, the local phrase 
 for an uproar, may be derived from the Norse, dyradomr, the 
 custom of assembling a jury to try a thief before his own 
 door. Several words denoting possessions of these hardy 
 Norsemen are still prevalent, as A (farm) e. g. [Ulf-a, Craik-a, 
 Bread-a] land, associated with Norwegian names; earth 
 (an estate) ; thwait (Norwegian, thveit, a clearing in a forest) ; 
 side (a settlement) ; gil (a ravine) ; grain, band, met, ex- 
 pressing boundaries ; by, a village. Ton, ham, worth, and 
 ford, are Saxon, and Thorp, purely Danish, but Kavensworth 
 is invariably called by the peasantry Ravens-side. The 
 Norse word Raise (a pile of stones on a mountain top) is 
 used instead of the Celtic cairn. JZboJ-barrow, over the 
 Duddon, is the grave of Oddi, possibly Silver-how (if un- 
 derstood as Solvar's theViking'sHill),andJTo/^or^-(Holbion) 
 how, witness to the desire of the old sea kings and grim 
 warriors to sleep high upon some tall hill, unenclosed by 
 dwellings of lesser men, and conspicuous to all travellers by 
 sea and land. We cannot but ask the question, u were 
 these enormous piles connected with any apprehension of 
 vampires ? or with a fear similar to that which urged the 
 mother of Antar to raise heaps of vast stones upon his grave 
 lest he should burst through it ? Blea-fell and Dim-fell, the 
 same words asbleaf-jeld and Dunf-jeld, the common names 
 c4 
 
24 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 of lakes and rivers ; and the peculiarity of long compounds 
 (e.g. Scal-thivaite-rigg-gate, Westmoreland, meaning the road 
 to the log-house in the clearing on the ridge) betray a 
 Norwegian origin. Of 150 names of families, from time 
 immemorial living in the district, two-thirds are Norwegian, 
 and the remainder Scandinavian. Of words ending in the 
 Danish termination " by/' denoting a settlement, there are 
 in Cumberland 43, and in Westmoreland 20. 
 
 The Fellsidees (a Scandinavian word). — The moun- 
 taineers are as firmly knit as the Yorkshire men, less burly 
 than the Lincolnshire descendants of the Danes, and taller 
 and bonier than the Anglo-Saxon of Surrey and Sussex ; 
 their whitehaired children resemble their cousins among the 
 peasantry of Norway. 
 
 The " Estatesmen," absolute owners of the land which 
 they cultivate with their own hands, or "Dalesmen" as 
 they are called among the mountains, recall the Norwegian 
 system of Odaismen, as much as the peculiar caution, 
 shrewdness, and reserve of the men themselves. The a flat 
 bread " (flad-brod Norsk,) unleavened rye or barley cakes, 
 is called also scon (Norsk, scon, a crust) ; the skill of 
 the men in wrestling, the lingering relic of a sword dance, 
 the strange outlandish words used by children in their play, 
 and the local dialect, all turn our thoughts back to the 
 " salt blood " of the north. 
 
 Siward, earl of Northumberland, having conquered the 
 usurper Macbeth in 1054, set Malcolm Canmore on the 
 vacant throne of Duncan ; and Cumberland, that is the 
 district south of the Solway, was formed into an earldom 
 dependent on the throne of England. In 1070 King Malcolm 
 marched through Cumberland to Teesdale on a foray, and 
 Earl G-ospatric ravaged the district in his absence. William 
 Hufus, in 1092, was in immediate possession of the country, 
 but it was not till the 23rd year of Henry II., who, 20 
 years before, had annexed it finally to the crown of England, 
 that the ancient name of Carleol was exchanged for that of 
 Cumberland. Stephen had yielded up Cumberland and 
 Westmoreland, to David king of Scotland, as the price of 
 his acquiescence in his usurpation of the English throne* 
 
HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. . 25 
 
 The 12th and 13th centimes bring us to the date of the 
 castles, abbeys, and priories founded on the outskirts of the 
 country. William I. conferred Cumberland upon his 
 follower Ralph de Meschines ; parts of the castles of 
 Carlisle, Appleby, Lancaster, Kendal, and Cockermouth 
 belong to the Norman period ; and many of the Cumbrian 
 churches, including the abbeys of Holme-Ciiltram, and Fur- 
 ness, the convent of Seton, and the priories of St. Bees, Cal- 
 der, Cartniel, Lanercost, and Shap, to the interval ranging 
 from Henry I. to the reign of King John. The castles of 
 Naworth, Egremont, Gilsland, and Dacre, have each their 
 tradition of the Crusades. The inhabitants of Temple 
 Sowerby still claim exemption from toll throughout England, 
 a privilege conferred upon the Templars. 
 
 The history of the feudal border frays begins with the 
 accession of Stephen. For several centimes being included 
 in the debateable land, the country was the scene of fre- 
 quent rapine and bloodshed, and it was not until the imion 
 of England and Scotland, that the hostile inroads happily 
 came to an end. David king of Scots took possession of 
 Carlisle for the Empress Maud, and after the battle of the 
 Standard at Northallerton fled to that city in 1138. His 
 coimtiyrnen in the reign of Henry II., burned Appleby. 
 About this period the barony of Kendal was first held by 
 Ivo de Taillebois. Carlisle boasts of a Parliament held by 
 Edward I. within its walls, and Burgh-on-the-Sands was the 
 place of his death. In the time of Edward III. and Richard 
 II. occurred the arrival of the Flemings, who introduced 
 the manufacture of Kendal green ; and in the foreign wars 
 of the 14th century the yeomen of the lakes and mountains 
 did good service with their yew bows. The sites of beacons 
 and the bale fires, to announce a foray of the Scots, still 
 exist at Penrith, Grasniere, Binsey, and on Carrock Fells ; 
 and the strong church towers of Burgh, Newton- Arlosh, and 
 Great Salkeld, were places of refuge for inhabitants during 
 these raids, and the Barmkin at Castlefolds, on Orton Scar, 
 served for the safety of cattle. 
 
 The churches having Norman portions are Aspatria, 
 Bromfield, Bridekirk, Dearham, Edenhall, High Barton, 
 
26 GREAT FAMILIES. 
 
 Isell, Irthington, Kirklinton, and Torpenhow. — Early 
 English: Dalston, Egremont, High Barton, Holme, Kirk 
 Oswald, Lazonby, St. Bees, Thursby. — Decorated: Bewcastle, 
 Gesforth, Muncaster. — Perpendicular : Brough, Crossthwaite 
 Bolton, Distington, Kendal, Wetheral. Appleby is decora- 
 ted and perpendicular. The monastic remains include 
 Calder, Cartmel, Cockersand, Furness, Holme- Cultram, 
 Lanercost, Seton, Shap, and Wetheral. The old or ruined 
 castles are those of Appleby, Brough, Brougham, Carlisle, 
 Dacre, Cockermouth, Kendal, Lancaster, Naworth, Rose- 
 and Scaleby, Howgill, Kirk Oswald and Bewley. 
 
 The remarkable fonts are those of Dearham, very Early ; 
 square at Bowness, Aspatria, Cross-Canonby, and Dearham ; 
 and octagonal at Bootle. The churchyard crosses remain at 
 Arthuret, St. Bride's, Dearham, Croglin, Gosforth, Irton, 
 and Muncaster. Stone pillars at Aspatria, Dacre, Penrith, 
 and Croglin. There are some fragments of stained glass at 
 Graystock ; triple sedilia at Brigham, Greystock, and Ousby ; 
 incised slabs at Bassenthwaite, Brigham, Ainstable, Aspa- 
 tria, Calder, Denton, Dearham, Greystock, and Irthington ; 
 brasses at Carlisle, Greystock, and Edenhall ; effigies at Oum- 
 rew, Camerton, Millom, Wetheral, Keswick, and in many 
 other churches. Towers remain at Askerton, Dacre, Grey- 
 stock, and High Head, Muncaster, Irton, Netherby, Kirk 
 Andrew in Esk, Netherhall, and Piel ; and of the 16th cen- 
 tury, at Dalston, Drumburgh, Lamplugh, Hardrigg, and 
 Hewthwaite. 
 
 Geeat Families. — The Castle of Penrith preserves tra- 
 ditions of the Nevilles, of Richard Duke of Gloucester 
 who hunted in the forest of Inglewood ; Brougham tells of 
 the Cliffords, and Thelkeld of that shepherd lord who was 
 hidden after the battle of Towton until the Seventh 
 Henry ended the long quarrel of the Boses. Sizergh records 
 the extinct fame of the Stricklands ; Edenhall the u luck" 
 of the Musgraves ; Muncaster that of the Penningtons. 
 Naworth speaks of Belted Will Howard, and the lords of 
 Gilsland ; Egremont of the Lucies ; Rydal of the Flem- 
 ings and Lowthers, and Kirkby Stephen of the Tuftons and 
 Veteriponts. Kendal Castle boasts of Catherine Parr; 
 
CELEBRATED PERSONS. 27 
 
 Greystock is proud of its Howards, and Lowther and 
 Brougham transmit the names of races opposed but equally 
 memorable in the political history of the country. Tradi- 
 tions of the commonwealth, or tales of the rising for the 
 Stuarts, fill up the county roll ; nor are the names of 
 Stanley, Tunstal, Thornbrugh, Irby, and Windham, to pass 
 unremembered. Gleaston Castle records the race of that 
 Duke of Suffolk who was father to Lady Jane Grey, and 
 Swartmoor Castle, near Ulverston, tells of a German baron 
 who mustered the forces of Lambert Simnel in 1485. The 
 schools of Hawkshead and St. Bees keep alive the memory 
 of Archbishops Sandys and Grindal ; Clifton Moor was the 
 scene of the skirmish between the Duke of Cumber- 
 land's army and the Highlanders of the Stuarts in 1714. 
 Crosby Ravensworth, where Charles II. regaled his army on 
 its march from Scotland ; Kaber, near Kirkby Stephen, 
 where a plot was laid to frustrate his restoration ; Hawks- 
 head the place of muster for the Pilgrims of the Hood of 
 Grace ; and Denton churchyard, where the Meg Merrilies of 
 " Guy Mannering" lies buried, are historic or legendary sites. 
 Calgarth and Curwen's Island, on "Windermere, are con- 
 nected with the loyal Philipsons and the daring cavalier 
 Robert the Devil ; Derwentwater and the Lady's Rake be- 
 speak the virtue and sad fortunes of the RadclifFes ; Work- 
 ing-ton has its recollections of Mary Stuart, and Carlisle of 
 the tragical ending of the rising in 1745. 
 
 Among the natives or inhabitants of the district, are 
 Cardinal Bainbridge, Queen Catherine Parr, Aglionby of 
 Ainstable, one of the translators of the New Testament, the 
 bold Philipson, who rode in quest of his enemy down the 
 aisles of Kendal, Bernard Gilpin, the Apostle of the 
 North, W. Gilpin the man of taste, the gallant Mounsey, 
 King of Paterdale, Sir John Banks of Keswick, Chief 
 Justice of the Common Pleas ; Anne Countess of Clifford 
 and Pembroke, Paley, archdeacon of Carlisle, Lord Ellen- 
 borough, Bums the ecclesiastical lawyer, Langhorne, 
 translator of Plutarch, the father of Hogarth the painter, 
 Lancelot Addison, father of the author of the * Spectator,' 1 
 Green and Romney the painters, Capt. Huddart of Allonby 
 
28 LEGENDS. 
 
 the constructor of nautical charts j and in recent times the 
 country is famous as the birthplace of Wordsworth, and the 
 residence of Southey, T. Clarkson, the advocate of the 
 slave, Shelley, of S. T. and Hartley Coleridge, De Quin- 
 cey, Bishop Watson, Major Hamilton, Canning, Huskisson, 
 Quillenan, Wilson, Mrs. Hemans, Sir George Beaumont, 
 Miss Jewsbury, Tennyson, Mrs. Radcliffe, Elizabeth Smith, 
 Charles Lloyd, Dr. Arnold, Miss Martineau, and the late 
 Queen Dowager. 
 
 Many a wild or stirring legend still survives of the en- 
 chanted cup of the ballad of the Bay and the Mantle, of 
 the haunted castle of Triermain, the Tower of Repentance, 
 of young Lochinvar, of the unearthly crier of Claife, of 
 King Arthur's adventure under He win Castle, of the 
 white lady of Aira Force, of the weird house under 
 Armboth Fells, of the mountain streams poured down 
 to quench the sacrificial fires of the Druid, of the foun- 
 dation of Lanercost Abbey, and the death of De Mor- 
 ville, the raid of the Graemes, and brave Mounsey of 
 Patterdale, of the Horn of Egremont, the luck of Edenhall, 
 and the submerged bells of Fisherby Brow; of the struggle 
 between the Eden and Pendragon, the spectral hosts of 
 Souter Fell, the automatic shells of Calgarth, and wondrous 
 fish in Wadling tarn, and the royal Danish boy, who charms 
 the flocks with the sweetness of his harp ; and many a touch- 
 ing tale is remembered, such as those of the Flower of 
 Kydal, Lucy of the Fold, or Mary of Butterrnere, and the 
 laugh concerning the wise men of Borrodale, is, like that of 
 the Homeric deities, inextinguishable. Instead of merry 
 fays we have a folk-lore of demons of the fells, of a devils' 
 town, abbreviated into Dilston, of gnomes and elves of the 
 mine, who only seem to work with their tiny tools, and of 
 Hob Throp, a lubber fiend who lies by the fire at midnight, 
 but does his work in the house bravely before dawn. 
 
 It is not a hundred years ago since the folk grew their 
 own flax, hemp, and wool, spinning and weaving the raw 
 material at home, and itinerant tailors went their rounds to 
 make it into clothes. The pack-horse then toiled along 
 under its burden between Keswick and Whitehave% 
 
DECAY OF OLD CUSTOMS. 29 
 
 succeeded in time by the carrier's cart winding round the 
 hills upon a broad road, and bringing cotton fabrics and 
 taking away the home spun. Half a century ago the 
 Cumberland farmer dressed in "kelt cloth/' native home- 
 spun, which procured for them the name of " grey-coats ;" 
 they still use a coarse plain dress, and wear clogs ; 
 oatmeal porridge is their simple breakfast, and bacon and 
 salt meat form their dinner m 9 but this diet is gradually 
 being superseded by tea and wheaten bread. The minute 
 division of land, and the extent of commons, provoke 
 constant lawsuits, which have caused them to be regarded 
 as litigious. In the rural districts, where the village 
 schoolmaster cannot find support by the pence of his 
 pupils, he, as the poorer clergy did before him, claims the 
 privilege of " whittle gate," to dine in rotation with their 
 parents. The kirn, a harvest-home, sheep-shearing, merry 
 nights and upshots, are the festive times of the peasantry ; 
 running, leaping, wrestling are their favourite amuse- 
 ments 5 and bride-wains and bidden-weddings still con- 
 tinue to be held in the more remote districts. A very 
 objectionable custom still prevails, the hiring of farm 
 servants at Whitsuntide and Martinmas, at the fairs in 
 market towns, where the candidates are distinguished by 
 a piece of a green branch or straw in their mouths. The 
 evening ends in coarse games and worse. Bishop Yilliers, 
 in his opening charge, alluded in strong language to the 
 prevalence of dissent and the lack of morality in his 
 diocese. 
 
 All the old customs, superstitions, and habits are dying 
 out. It would be impossible now to find the old chimney- 
 place occupied, as it was designed to be, forming a lesser 
 room, capacious enough to hold the good man carding wool, 
 the women knitting and spinning, and the school boy 
 conning his Lilly. Then the simple furniture consisted of 
 a long oaken table, provided with benches, pewter cups 
 and wooden trenchers, three-legged stools, and heavy 
 armed chairs of wainscot ) the light was afforded at night 
 by candles made of peeled rushes dipped in lard, the 
 candlestick was a light upright post set in a log, with a 
 
30 MODERN CUSTOMS. 
 
 pair of pincers attached to it for the purpose of holding 
 fresh rushes ; the staple food was black oat bread leavened. 
 At Ravenglass children went about begging alms with a ditty 
 that adjured the bountiful by the memory of "old King 
 Edward's days." AtMillom, on Christmas Eve, the oxen 
 were said to kneel in the field, and the bees to sing at 
 midnight. It was a common custom to drive sick cattle 
 through the Need fires, and the Beltein (BaaPs fire) was 
 kindled in May. Till lately at Keswick and Cwmwhitton 
 (St. Quentin), riding the stang or lifting a comrade on a 
 pole, only to be released on paying a forfeit, were obsolete. 
 
 The mimic war-play of the children called Beggarly Scot, 
 however, recalls the times of border feuds, when the men of 
 Cumberland chased the moss trooper with the sleugh (bog) 
 hounds ; and a mother, when her larder was empty, set two 
 swords upon the board and said to her sons, u I have no 
 meat, go forth and get your dinner." The local division 
 into Wards is the only relic of those troublous times. 
 On the grassy plain of Burgh, and among RockclifF 
 marshes, near the Solway, the herdsmen still cut u Walls 
 of Troy." In the remoter dales, no mother will cut the 
 hair, pare the nails, or wash the arms of her child, before 
 it is six months old, for fear it should grow up to be a 
 thief. Wrestling is still maintained, but not with the same 
 circumstance which attended, a century since, the meetings 
 at Lorton on the occasion of public bridals, or of Midsummer 
 day at Melmerby, the matches of New Year's and Christmas 
 Days at Langwathby, or those of Workington on Easter 
 Tuesday ; or perhaps the more recent festivals at Amble- 
 side, Keswick and Carlisle, fifty years ago, when Bampton 
 School, was a nursery of wrestlers, fine stalwart young 
 men, who then were not ashamed to study there ; but were 
 sometimes given to the practice of barring out, if they did 
 not receive a cock-penny on Shrove Tuesday, or a holiday, 
 according to old rule. 
 
HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. Z\ 
 
 HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 
 
 The best time for visiting the lakes is from the close of 
 July up to the middle of September ; but the season 
 extends from the middle of May to the middle of October. 
 From the close of May to the end of June the tourist will 
 enjoy the long days, fine weather, and the fresher tints of 
 the landscape, the wild rose, the golden broom and fragrant 
 honeysuckle $ in the latter he will be delighted with the 
 warm autumn tints, the gorgeous brown, purple, crimson 
 and gold of the declining year. July is subject to frequent 
 rains ; April is dry ; from the middle of May to the end of 
 June there is generally fine weather. The same remark 
 applies to September. As showers come on suddenly, and 
 the rain is more frequent in the mountainous than in the 
 open country, the tourist should make an allowance in his 
 arrangements for the occurrence of a wet day. Pedestrians 
 should wear a flannel shirt, a tweed shooting suit, with 
 ample pockets, a Scotch plaid as a defence in case of rain 
 or keen winds on high groimd, woollen socks, and strong 
 roomy shoes, which are less liable than boots to chafe the 
 foot or constrain the ancles, and gaiters to keep out sand 
 and small stones. Coaches, railway trains, and coimtry 
 carts offer every facility for transporting heavier luggage 
 between the chief places of resort, so that the pedes- 
 trian's light and waterproof knapsack need not be over- 
 loaded. It should be worn low, with a small pad or cap 
 interposed between it and the small of the back, and be 
 attached to a belt, which can be unbuckled with ease. He 
 should not trust to sheep tracks, nor set out unprovided 
 with biscuits ; a full flask, a map, a pocket compass, and a 
 stout iron shod staff are indispensable adjuncts. 
 
 Sailing on Windermere, or any inland water, is not 
 without danger, owing to the sudden flaws of wind from 
 the hill ; small light row-boats should not be used for the 
 same reason, as the waves on lakes rapidly rise in a strong 
 wind. For ascending the mountains a fine clear morning 
 should be chosen, and a guide should be taken, otherwise 
 
32 HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 
 
 the morass, the precipice, and the landslips, will often 
 compel the inexperienced traveller to make a long circuit ; 
 fogs suddenly rise about the hills, like the smoke from a 
 cauldron, and then there is positive danger ; besides, the 
 native of the country can point out many objects to which 
 the best of maps would give but an imperfect key. 
 
 Many a pedestrian has returned after a weary wandering 
 of hours to the spot from which he set out. The frightful 
 death of Charles Gough, in Helvellyn; and the fate of the 
 dalesman Joseph Green and his wife, told so well by De 
 Quincey, who perished in the snow at Christmas-tide on 
 the hills between Langdale and Easedale, are sufficient 
 warnings. Dr. Dalton, who climbed Helvellyn annually 
 for forty years, being one day overtaken by a mist, stopped 
 his companion, saying, " Halt, there is nothing but mist to 
 tread on ;" one step more would have precipitated them 
 down a precipice into Red Tarn. 
 
 Size is not impressive : it has justly been observed that 
 beyond a certain height the eifect is not in proportion to 
 the elevation ; and certainly the greatest elevation is inferior 
 to the sense of boundlessness which is produced by an 
 infinite expanse of sea. The fair upland slope, the lawny 
 meadow, the green pasture, the dense underwood, and 
 broad-leaved trees, the winding lake, the village houses, the . 
 modest church towers under these grand hills, serve as 
 measures to enhance their apparent height, which can be 
 scaled with little effort, when compared with the toil 
 required for the ascent of the peaks and glaciers of Swit- 
 zerland. The lights and shadows are equally beautiful 
 here; the rose and purple of the sunset and dawn; the 
 darkness of the heavily-piled canopy of the thunder-cloud ; 
 the brightness of the peaks ; the delicious coolness of the 
 winds that come down in the drowsy summer heat $ and 
 the long shadows behind the westering sun. 
 
 The charm of the English mountains, in contrast to 
 those of other countries, lies in this particular, that the 
 mightiness of the mountain, the passionate roar and eddy 
 of its fresh and rapid streams, the terror of its gorges, are 
 not far removed from the repose and humble beauties of 
 
THE SCENERY. 33 
 
 the lowland ; the foundations of the great hill are rooted 
 in the soft slope of pastures, and hidden in the tender 
 foliage of the glade that fringes the deep bosom of some 
 lovely lake. The tourist will here find eyeiy phase of 
 nature, beauty and grandeur, wildness and cultivation, 
 strangely mingled: the profound repose of the mighty 
 mountains with their dark deep shadows; the foaming 
 waterfalls ; the black sullen tarn ; the savage solitude ; the 
 long deep valley full of dreary melancholy ; sweet cottages 
 embosomed in trees ; and the lone, houseless glen, relieved 
 by the occasional flashing of a stream half hidden between 
 banks of bright green or overhanging rocks. He will thread 
 valleys profound and silent as Wastdale, full of green 
 mounds like Eskdale, and rich in arcadian beauty like 
 Ennerdale, with the lake shores melting into a noble vale 
 that reaches to the sea, lit up with bright smiling verdure. 
 Sometimes, as Gray felt in Borrodale, the huge mountains 
 will seem to be closing in about him like the hills shut 
 in Barbarossa : or, as he pants up the pass, skirting the 
 deep narrow abyss that lines it, and leaving cottage, hut, 
 and even sheepfold far behind, be rewarded by seeing the 
 sudden illumination burning along the mountain tops that 
 rise into the very heart of the sky ; or the clouds, majesti- 
 cally slow in long procession, cleave to them in huge masses, 
 which the sun converts into folds of glory such as never 
 hung upon the most magnificent of princes. 
 
 The superb circle of distant mountains, solitary hills, 
 and ranges of calm purple heights, bare moorland and sudden 
 gorge, plain and lake, sea and land, are indeed glorious 
 when seen in a bracing air, full of life and purity : often the 
 broken mists and the occasional sunburst show the wide 
 scene in lovely tantalizing glimpses, until each hill and 
 peak throws off its mantle of vapour and comes out distinct 
 in height and proportion, with their tops glittering in the 
 light or chequered by the flitting shadows of the clouds,; 
 a thousand lovely gem-like tints, warm, intense, diver- 
 sified, form themselves in new combinations and aspects of 
 colour and outline, with the shift of the passing cloud, the 
 slant of the sun ray, the veering of the breeze, or change 
 v 
 
34 THE SCENERY. 
 
 of the spectators position, while the principal landmarks 
 remain unaltered, and the old giants stand serene and im- 
 moveable. In moonlight the mists rise like pillars of light, 
 which fancy might easily convert into the phantoms and 
 spirits of the Vikings who lie buried in their caims upon the 
 ridgy steeps. The nearer mountains are generally of a faint 
 purple, those further off of a light blue tint. The mountain 
 tops are seldom quite free from clouds or mists sweeping 
 round their giant sides like the folds of a transparent robe, 
 or resting softly as a coronet on their granite brows. Some- 
 times on the lifting of the fog along the valley, like the 
 rising of the curtain at a spectacle, a wonderful breadth 
 of landscape bursts in a moment on the eye. 
 
 The stillness that prevails on the heights is awful 
 almost to a feeling of pain, when not a breath of air is 
 stirring, and the land lies voiceless below. The grandeur 
 of a storm, observed from eminences lifted above the 
 clouds, is said to be most impressive when the lightning 
 flashes like arrows of flame in and out among the 
 peaks, and the thunder rolls and echoes with mani- 
 fold reverberations among the caverns and along the 
 valleys, with a sublimity and majesty beyond expression. 
 Brooks abound, brawling after rain among the hills, 
 and usually flowing over pebbly channels ; loose stone 
 walls, sometimes seven feet high, supply the place of 
 hedgerows on the mountain sides, having been origi- 
 nally built to defend the sheep from the wolves, which 
 filled the ash and holly woods, on the sprouts of which the 
 flocks browsed. The tarns are a precaution of nature 
 against the inundation of the valleys, forming reservoirs for 
 the mountain streams, which do not overflow until the 
 swollen rivers in the valleys have begun to subside. In 
 certain districts the huts of the charcoal burners form a 
 very picturesque feature of the landscape ; in most of his 
 excursions the pedestrian will find few living objects to 
 break the tranquillity of the scene, except a few scattered 
 sheep ? the peasant girl carrying the noonday meal to the 
 shepherd on the hills, or an ardent sight-seeker like 
 
GLOSSARY. 
 
 35 
 
 himself, and the only sounds he will hear are those of the 
 stock-dove in the wood, the bleating of the flock on the 
 cliff, or the rushing of the winds among the hill3, the 
 brawling of the brook, and the sullen croak of the raven 
 over his head. 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Aira, a sandy promontory. 
 Ash, water. 
 
 Band, a small hill-top. 
 
 Barrow, a mound. 
 
 Bassen, full of perch. 
 
 Beck, a stream. 
 
 Bela, noisy, 
 
 Bells Baal's. 
 
 Blea, blue. 
 
 Borrans, blocks of stone rolled 
 
 down to the foot of a slope. 
 Borrodale, boar's dale. 
 Bow (ness), a dwelling by the 
 
 headland. 
 Bracken, gorse. 
 Brant, (steep) a fell. 
 Brothers water, corruption of 
 
 Brodr or Broad dur water. 
 Buthar Lipr. Buthar, the nim- 
 
 ble's hill. 
 Butter lip (haw). 
 
 Cairn, a mound of stones. 
 
 Colder, wooded water. 
 
 Cam, a comb or crest of a hill. 
 
 Carrock, a rock. 
 
 Carl-loftr, the warrior's high 
 
 monument. 
 Cat-sty-cam, the summit of the 
 
 wild cat's track. 
 Causey, causeway. 
 Clint, a rocky steep. 
 Codale, hill dale. 
 Coniston, the king's town. 
 Coom, a hollow in a hill side. 
 Cove, a recess, shepherd's hut. 
 Cyric, a circle. 
 
 Den, a glen. 
 
 Derwent, clear water. 
 
 Bod, (Toddi, Icel.) a hill with a 
 
 blunt summit. 
 Bore, an opening between rocks. 
 Dow, black. 
 Dun, a small hill attached to 
 
 another hill. 
 Dungeon, a fissure. 
 Dunmallet, the parley-hill. 
 
 Eamont, meeting of the waters. 
 Eden, a gliding stream. 
 Ehen, waterfowl. 
 Elleray, alder comer. 
 
 Fairfield, sheep hill. 
 Fell, a rocky hill, or high bleak- 
 land. 
 Floutern, a marshy lake. 
 Force, a waterfall. 
 Foudry, flame island. 
 Furness, the beacon promontory. 
 
 Gabel, like tongue, helm, hause, 
 denotes the configuration of a 
 portion of country or hill. 
 
 Gatesgarth, the rock-road, Keska 
 is a corruption of the word. 
 
 Gate, a way, a road. 
 
 Gap. a spring. 
 
 Garth, a fenced place. 
 
 Garris, an enclosure. 
 
 Gill, a narrow ravine with a 
 stream. 
 
 Glen dera terra, vale of the angel 
 of death. 
 
 Glen dera makin, the ravine of the 
 hill stream. 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Grange, a farmhouse. 
 Grise, wild swine. 
 Greta, the swift. 
 
 Eac, a wood. 
 
 Hammer, a rock. 
 
 Harri, (king,) warrior's, hill. 
 
 Eause, a narrow pass, a depression 
 
 between two hills. 
 Eaugh, flat ground by the water- 
 side. 
 Haver, oats. 
 Eelvellyn, Baal's hill. 
 Eindscarih, shepherd's hill. 
 Eohne, alluvial land, an island. 
 Eope, sl headland, often corruptly 
 
 up. 
 Eow, an eminence. 
 
 Jng, a meadow. 
 
 Keld, a spring. 
 
 Keswick, the fortified village. 
 
 Kirkstone, (pass) from a cyrric 
 
 or circle of stones now destroyed. 
 Knoc, a hill. 
 Knot, a rocky excrescence on a 
 
 hill (the round of the knuckles). 
 
 Lade, a road. 
 
 Laith, a barn. 
 
 Lam, loam. 
 
 Leg-ber, law-mount. 
 
 Ling, heath. 
 
 Linn, a torrent. 
 
 Lissa, sluggish and weary. 
 
 Lodore, black water. 
 
 Main, a pile of stones. 
 Meals, from Meales, sand. 
 Mellbreak, the slope of a hill. 
 Jfe/Z, the mountain demon, a 
 
 boundary. 
 Mere, a lake. 
 Mickle, large. 
 Morecambe, the crooked bay. 
 
 iV«&, a rocky point. 
 Nallin, (fell) like a house. 
 
 Naribield, the ravined hill. 
 iVess, a headland. 
 
 Paddy, a frog. 
 Pew, a hill. 
 Pi&e, a peak. 
 Portf, a gate. 
 Pot, round holes 
 water. 
 
 scooped out by 
 
 Orrest, a field of battle. 
 
 Raise, a tumulus. 
 
 Rake, a small pass formed by a 
 
 depression in the ground. 
 Reach, a division of a lake. 
 Redding, a general clearing 
 Rigg, an oblong hill. 
 Rotha, a ford for horses. 
 
 Sail, (black sail), a hat, a bar. 
 
 Salter, a shepherd's hut. 
 
 Scale, a booth or hut. 
 
 Scarf, an opening cut between 
 rocks. 
 
 Scar, a range, of steep bare rocks. 
 
 Scaw, a break. 
 
 Screes, loose gravel-like stones on 
 the face of a steep declivity. 
 
 Scrogs, stunted bushes. 
 
 Shiel, (shell, a cover) a temporary 
 hut ( of turf, or stone on com- 
 mons or hills. 
 
 Side, a settlement. 
 
 Silloth, so called from the herring 
 lines. 
 
 Skelton, from sceald, a defence, or 
 sceile, a jagged rock. 
 
 Skerries, a knife-sharp ridge. 
 
 Skiddaw, a horseshoe. 
 
 Slack, a small shallow dell, open- 
 ing between two hills, a defile. 
 
 Sled-dale, valley-dale 
 
 Souter (fell), soudr, sheep. 
 
 Sprinkling, the spring-well. 
 
 Stake, a path. 
 
 Stead, a site. 
 
 Steel, steep. 
 
RAILWAYS AND EOADS. 
 
 37 
 
 Stickle, a peak. 
 
 Stock, a stockade. 
 
 Striding, narrow and difficult. 
 
 St. Sunday, St. Dominic. 
 
 Sty head, the top of the rough 
 pass. 
 
 Swirrel, circuitous. 
 
 Syke, a rivulet that dries up in 
 summer. 
 
 Swallow Holes, near Hesketh 
 Newmarket : hollows in the 
 limestone beds produced by the 
 downward rush of water acidu- 
 lated by decomposition of iron 
 pyrites or of vegetable sub- 
 stances. 
 
 Tarn, a small lake. 
 
 Thirl and Threl, corruptions of 
 
 Thor. 
 Thorpe, sl village. 
 Thwaite, a clearing in a forest, 
 
 an enclosed field. 
 Toft, an enclosure. 
 
 Wath, a ford. 
 Wark, a fortification. 
 Whinlatter, the hill with the 
 
 windy brow. 
 Wiggen, and Wissa, holy, (e. g. 
 
 Wig- town.) 
 Windermere, the lake of the 
 
 bright water. 
 Wray, a corner or landmark. 
 Wyke, a bay. 
 
 Yoke, a hill joined to another hill. 
 
 Kailways and Koads. — The Bailways enclose the dis- 
 trict of the Lakes within a bow-shaped area, the coast-line 
 forming the arc upon the west, and, on the east, the line 
 traversing the interior making the chord. In the following- 
 pages the tourist will be conducted along each of these 
 modes of commimication ; and also to every chief centre of 
 observation, from which the divergences to objects of 
 interest will be noted in alphabetical order. 
 
 Eotjtes to the Lae^: Cottntky. — From Liverpool the 
 Lakes may be approached, 1. by Lancaster, and through 
 the valleys of the Lune and Kent to Kendal ; 2. by New- 
 by Bridge ; 3. by Fleeftvood to Kampside ; 4. or by steam- 
 boat from Liverpool to Ulverston, the passage occupying 
 about eight hours. 
 
 From Preston to Fleetwood by railway the journey is 
 accomplished in one hour ; in another hour the tourist will 
 be landed at Piel. The steamer Helvellyn leaves Fleet- 
 wood at 10J a.m., returning from Piel at 2^- p.m. : the 
 steamer for Morecambe Bay leaves at the same time. The 
 train proceeds by Barrow, Furness Abbey, Dalton, and Lin- 
 dale to Ulverston. 
 
 The railway from Lancaster to Whitehaven branches off at 
 
 D 3 
 
38 EOUTES TO THE LAKE COUNTRY. 
 
 Camforth, 6 Jm. N. of Lancaster on the Carlisle railway, and 
 passes by Silverdale, Grange, Cartmell, andCark to Ulverston. 
 
 The shortest and most picturesque route to the Lakes 
 for the traveller from the south is by Lancaster. The 
 express train leaving London at 9 a.m. reaches that town at 
 3*35 p.m., and he can then proceed by the coast line, and at 
 Foxneld Junction diverge to Coniston ; whence a day's 
 walk or ride will take him by Tilberthwaite, Yewdale, 
 Ellerwater, Grasmere, and Eydal to Ambleside ; or by 
 Oxenfell, Skelthwaite, and the Vale of Bratha; or by 
 Hawkshead, Esthwaite, and Saurey, to the Eerry and Low- 
 wood. On the next day he might proceed from Low- 
 wood or Ambleside by coach to Keswick, and on to Wast- 
 dale and Buttermere. If he made his way to Wastwater, 
 from Drigg station on the day of his arrival, he might on 
 the following day proceed by Blacksail and Scarfgap, 
 through Gatesgarth, Buttermere by Crummock water, and 
 Honister Crag \ or over Grassmoor to Derwentwater and 
 Keswick. On the third day he might visit Penrith and 
 Carlisle. On the fourth day he could traverse Ulleswater 
 by the steamboat, and go on by Paterdale, over Kirkstone 
 Pass, to Ambleside and Birthwaite. 
 
 The Lancaster and Carlisle Railway, 70 miles long, 
 which cost 22,000/. per mile, passes close by the eastern 
 border of the Lake district ; the three stations of Miln- 
 thorpe, Kendal, and Penrith being severally only a few 
 miles distant from the three lake towns of Ulverston, Am- 
 bleside, and Keswick ; while there, is a station at Penrith ; 
 and the coast line touches Ulverston and Whitehaven, 
 both convenient points of access to the interior. Amble- 
 side is the best head-quarters for the Westmoreland and 
 Lancashire Lakes, and Keswick for those of Cumberland. 
 
 The entire network of railways south of Lancaster con- 
 verges on that town by two lines, one passing through Pres- 
 ton, and representing those of the Great Western and North- 
 western companies, the other approaching by Leeds and 
 Skipton from the Great Northern and North-Eastern lines. 
 
 A direct railway connects Lancaster and Carlisle, with a 
 branch to Kendal; the coast line is circuitous; on it 
 
ROUTES TO THE LAKE COUNTRY. 39 
 
 Workington, with a branch to Cockermouth, is nearer 
 Carlisle, and Ulverston is nearer Lancaster. 
 
 The northern railways converge on Carlisle by three 
 lines ; the Newcastle and Carlisle comes from the east ; the 
 Caledonian from Edinburgh and Glasgow, and the Glasgow 
 and South-Western unite at Gretna before entering Cum- 
 berland. Steam packets run direct from Liverpool and 
 Belfast to Port Carlisle and Whitehaven ; from the Isle of 
 Man to Whitehaven and Piel, and from Londonderry to 
 Morecambe, and Morecambe to Piel. Coaches : one runs daily 
 between the stations of Cockermouth and Windermere, by 
 Bassenthwaite, Keswick, Derwentwater, Thirlmere, Hel- 
 vellyn, Dunmail Raise, Grasmere, and Ambleside j thus tra- 
 versing some of the most important features of the Lake 
 district. 
 
 Persons who land at Whitehaven or Workington by 
 steamboat from Liverpool may proceed by Cockermouth, 
 (14m.), to Keswick, (27m.), as the most convenient 
 route. Those who arrive from the north, or across Stain- 
 moor, will do well to halt at Penrith, and thence visit 
 Ulleswater, Paterdale, Helvellyn, Haweswater, Giant's 
 Cave, Long Meg, Brougham Hall, and Lowther Castle : 
 then proceed to Keswick and visit Derwentwater and its 
 islets, Lowdore Force, Skeddaw, the lead-mines of Borro- 
 dale, Grange, Bowderstone, Rosthwaite, Seathwaite, Vale 
 of St. John's, the Druid's Temple, Bassenthwaite Water, 
 Buttermere, Gatesgarth Dale, Scale Force, Crummock 
 Water, Lowes Water, Lorton Vale, and Ennerdale Water ; 
 and then, going to Ambleside by Thirlmere, Dunmail 
 Raise, Grasmere, and Rydal Water, visit Lowwood, 
 Bowness, and Windermere, Belle Isle, Hawkshead and 
 Esthwaite Water, Coniston Water, Ulverston, and Furness 
 Abbey ; returning by the coast railway to Carlisle, or by 
 Kendal, (21m.), or by Lancaster. 
 
 The 9 a.m. mail-train from London reaches Windermere 
 at 4*51 p.m. Tourists' tickets, available for one calendar 
 month, are issued at Euston Square for Windermere at 70s. 
 and 60s., Coniston 73s. and 52s., Blackpool, Fleetwood, 
 Lytham, and Southport at 60s. and 45s. 
 
 D 4 
 
40 
 
 EXCURSION TO THE LAKES, 
 
 Embracing most of the Principal Objects of Interest, and occupying 
 less Time than a Week. 
 
 The tourist, leaving the train at the Birthwaite station on 
 the Kendal and Windermere Railway, takes the steamyacht 
 for a circuit of the lake ; or proceeds by omnibus to Bow- 
 ness, and thence by pleasure boat passes among the islets of 
 Winandermere, enjoying an ever-changing panorama. Be- 
 tween Bowness and Ambleside, by crossing the main road 
 the traveller can visit Elleray, or return by a new road, a 
 short mile, to Birthwaite. From Birthwaite to Ambleside 
 the high road is enchanting at every turn, and passes 
 through Lowwood Valley : at Ambleside the tourist must 
 not fail to visit Stock G-hyl Force. From Ambleside to 
 Kesioick he will proceed by coach, passing Rydal and 
 Grasmere ; then commences the long ascent of Dunmail 
 Raise, and the road again descending, passes through the 
 village of Wythburn at the foot of Helvellyn. Skirting 
 Thirlmere, and crossing the head of the vale of S. John, 
 with Blencathra stretching eastward from Skidd, the 
 traveller will then reach Castle Rigg, overlooking the vale 
 of Keswick and the lakes of Derwentwater and Bassen- 
 thwaite. 
 
 Feom Keswick to Ulleswatee (10m). The tourist may 
 take the Thelkeld road, passing the Druid's Circle and 
 Threlkeld Hall ; skirting Mell Fell, traversing Materdale 
 by Dockwray and Gowborrow Park. From Ulleswater he 
 can visit Paterdale, Aira Force, and Lyulph's Tower ; and 
 from Pooley Bridge proceed by coach to Penrith, thence 
 5m. distant. If saving of time is an object, he can see 
 the lakes and pass the cataract and tower, by taking the 
 daily four-horse-coach from Keswick to Penrith, (18m.), 
 which he may reach at noon, and, after viewing Lowther 
 Castle, Brougham Castle, and Countess Pillar, King Arthur's 
 Round Table, and Eden Hall, proceed by railway north or 
 south. 
 
 Feom Pateedale to Ambleside (9£m). — Stybarrow Crag 
 
EXCURSION TO THE LAKES. 41 
 
 shadows the road ; on the left is Glenridding House, at the 
 foot of Place Fell, then crossing the head of the lake, 
 Glenridding beck, flowing* from Helvellyn, is passed ; on the 
 right is Paterdale Hall (J. Marshal ;) near it is the inn and 
 village church. Deepdale beck is crossed ; on the right are 
 Sunday's Crag and Brother's Water. High Hartshope 
 is now passed, and the tourist ascends the steep pass of 
 Kirkstone, where heath disappears along the " bracken zone." 
 Between Bed Screes and Woundale is a wayside inn, the 
 highest inhabited dwelling in England, near a huge block of 
 stone ; on the right is a road to Troutbeck, in front that to 
 Ambleside, affording fine views of Coniston Fells, Bletham 
 Tarn, and Windermere. 
 
 Keswick to Ambleside. — From Keswick the tourist 
 can proceed along the east shore of Derwentwater, to Lodore 
 Fall, and passing through Grange, enter Borrodale. One 
 m. beyond Grange is the Bowder Stone ; on the right is 
 Castle Crag, from which one of the finest views is obtained 
 of Derwentwater. Rosthwaite is lm. and the church of 
 Borrodale l|m. further. Near this spot a road on the 
 left leads to Stonethwaite, and by a mountain pass into 
 Langdale. Proceeding by the road, Seatollar lies on the 
 way from Borrodale by Honister Crag into Buttermere. 
 The tourist crosses Seatollar Bridge and Seathwaite Bridge, 
 (|m.) leaving on the left Grange and a narrow valley, 
 bounded on the east by Keppel and Hind Crags, and 
 Glaramara. On reaching Seathwaite the pedestrian will see 
 the Four Yews to the right, and the plumbago mine, which 
 he can reach by crossing the wooden Far and Stockley bridges. 
 [The tourist who uses a car will go by Seathwaite bridge, 
 and on leaving the village, by aid of a pony pass over Sty- 
 head Pass to Wast dale Head, (5m.) or Strands (6m. further) 
 before he can find another carriage.] The pedestrian mounts 
 by the steep path up Aaron End, diverging to visit Taylor's 
 Ghyl, and then resuming the path, proceeds to Styhead 
 Tarn. Descending from the tarn into Wastdale, he sees 
 Green and Great Gable on the right and the Pikes of 
 Scawfell towering over the Lingmell ; with Great End and 
 Sprinkling Fells to the left. Below lies the narrow valley, 
 
42 EXCURSION TO THE LAKES. 
 
 with part of Wastivater visible. The pedestrian now follows 
 the road for 3Jm. along the shore, having on the left the 
 Screes, and on the right Middle Fell and Buckbarrow. At 
 the foot of the lake is Wastdale Hall, and near it is a ravine 
 in the Screes called Hawl Ghyl. The tourist now proceeds 
 to Strands, where there are two hotels, and, by a road com- 
 manding views of the vale of Ravenglass, to Gosforth and 
 Colder Bridge. [Calder Abbey is lm. distant, and lm. 
 above it is an ancient camp. The pedestrian, following the 
 river, crossing the wooden bridge at Thorney Holme, and 
 (keeping the left or west bank), to another wooden bridge, 2 
 m. further, and then proceeds by road to Ennerdale Bridge.'] 
 The tourist who uses a pony or a car, following the 
 mountain path over Cold Fell to Ennerdale Bridge, then 
 proceeds to the u Angler's Bridge Inn." [The pedestrian, 
 leaving Ennerdale, passes between Bauna Fell and Herd- 
 house, tracing the stream to its rise, traverses the ridge, 
 skirts Floutern Tarn, and follows the course of the water to 
 Loivesioater.'] The high road is then kept through Lamp- 
 lugh, the common traversed, and by a steep descent com- 
 manding a fine view, the head of Loweswater is reached. 
 The road skirts the lake-shore. 
 
 Pleasant well-kept walks lead to Crummock Water ; the 
 tourist can proceed by the shore at the foot of Mellbreak to 
 Scala Force, 4m. distant, and thence to Buttermere, 2 
 m. further. A pony or car may be used along the road 
 from Scale Hill to Buttermere; the lake is ^m. distant 
 from the village. By taking the Hause road, and de- 
 scending to the vale of Newlands, the tourist can return 
 to Kesivick by way of Portinscale. 
 
 From Keswick the tourist may explore the mountains and 
 valleys from Skiddaw to the topmost gorges of Borrodale, 
 or if proceeding to Cockermouih, he will skirt the west 
 shore of Bassenthwaite water by a pleasant ride of 7m., 
 with the luxuriant woods of Wythop on the left ; on the 
 right, across the lake he will observe Skiddaw ; near the 
 foot of the lake is Peel Wyke Inn ; and from it the road 
 lies through a fertile vale to Cockermouth, where he may 
 visit the castle. Then proceeding by rail to Whitehaven, 
 
ROUTES TO THE LAKES BY STEAMERS. 43 
 
 and crossing the Derwent, catching a sight of Pap Castle, 
 he arrives at Workington, and thence will pass Harrington 
 chemical works, Lowen engine works, and Parton, before 
 reaching Whitehaven. Thence he takes S. Bee's by rail- 
 way to Settafield, or (2m. further) to Seascale Station, 
 where there is a good hotel, and, after visiting Colder Abbey, 
 returning to the railway station, he can proceed to Broiighton, 
 passing Eavenglass and obtaining occasional views of Wast, 
 Miter, and Esk dales, the Scaw and Fells, and skirting the 
 base of Black Combe, he crosses the Duddon estuary, beyond 
 which are Furness Fells and Kirby slate quarries. On the 
 left is Millom Castle, the vale of Ulpha and Duddon, and 
 Coniston Old Man and Walney Scar are seen, and at length 
 Bronghton-in- Furness is reached. A train by the branch line 
 diverges to Coniston. Thence a coach for Ambleside, on leav- 
 ing the valley, mounts a hill, and arrives at Haivkshead, with 
 Wordsworth's school and S. Michael's church on a rocky 
 eminence forming conspicuous objects. Soon after leaving 
 the town Loughrigg Fell appears ; the Bratha is then 
 crossed, and Westmoreland entered; the tourist passes 
 through the village of Clappersgate, and over the Rotha to 
 Ambleside, and thence by carriage proceeds to Birtluvaite 
 raihvay station. 
 
 EOUTES TO THE LAKES BY STEAMEES. 
 
 Ambleside to Newly Bridge at 8*15, 10 a.m., 1, 2, 5*15 p.m., 
 and to Bowness and Low wood only, 6, 7' 15 p.m. 
 
 Belfast to Whitehaven (9 hours) — In connection with Trains to 
 Carlisle, Maryport, Cockermouth, Workington, and Harrington. Fares, 
 10s. and 35. Return Tickets, 15s. and 45. 6c?.; to Maryport, Workington, 
 and Harrington, 105. 6c?. and 45. Return Tickets, 165. 3d. and 65. 
 6c?.; to Cockermouth, lis. 6 d. and 5s. Return Tickets, 18s. and 85. 
 The Return Tickets are available for the return of steamer, or steamer 
 next following. 
 
 To Fleetwood (10 to 11 hours) — Daily, (Sundays excepted) at 7 
 p. m. Fares, 125. 6d. (Children above 3 and under 12 years, 7s. 6d. 
 and 35.) 
 
 To Morecambe — Fares, 55. and 25. Return Tickets, 7s. 6c?. and 
 
 35. 
 
 Bowness to Ambleside, calling at Lowwood — At 7t and 9^- 
 a.m.; 12J, 1J, 4^, 5^, 6^-, and 8 p.m. Fares, to Ambleside and back, Is. 
 6c?. and Is.; the circuit of the Lake (including all stations), 2s. 
 
44 ROUTES TO THE LAKES BY STEAMERS. 
 
 To Newly Bridge, calling at Ferry — At 6f, 9^, and 10} a.m; 
 If, 2 J, and 5f p.m. Fares, to Ferry and back, 6c?. and 4c?.; to 
 Newby Bridge and back, Is.; the circuit of the Lake (including 
 all stations), 2s. Children under 12 years, half fares. 
 
 Carlisle to Belfast (Sea passage 9 hours) — The Railway (from 
 Citadel Station) to Whitehaven, thence per Queen or Whitehaven — 
 Fares, 12s. and 5s. Return Tickets, available for 18 days, at a fare 
 and a half. 
 
 To Douglas, Isle of Man. — Railway to Whitehaven, thence by 
 steamer to Douglas Harbour, calls off the Harbour on other days 
 (weather permitting). Fares, 12s. and 6s. Return Tickets, available 
 for 18 days, 18s. and 9s. 
 
 To Dublin (sea passage 1 3 hours) — Per Railway to Whitehaven, 
 thence by steamer. Fares, 15s. and 6s. Return Tickets, available for 
 18 days, 22s. 6c?. and 9s. 
 
 To Liverpool (sea passage 8 hours) — Per Railway to Whitehaven, 
 thence by steamer. Fares, 10s. and 4s. Return Tickets, available for 
 1 8 days, at a fare and a half. 
 
 To Liverpool (sea passage 8 hours) — By Railway to Silloth, thence 
 by steamer calling off Whitehaven. Fares 8s. and 4s. 
 
 Douglas (Isle of Man) to Carlisle, via Whitehaven — From 
 Douglas Harbour every Thursday night or Friday morning early, calling 
 on the voyage from Dublin. Fares, 12s. and 6s. Return Tickets, 18s. 
 and 9s. 
 
 To Dublin (8 hours) — From Douglas Harbour every Wednesday night 
 or Thursday morning, on the voyage from Whitehaven. Fares, 10s. 6c?. 
 and 6s. Return Tickets, 16s. and 7s. 6d. 
 
 To Liverpool (5^ hours) — Daily (Sundays excepted) at or after 9 
 a. m. Fares, 6s. and 3s. Return Tickets, available for 28 days, 9s. 
 and 4s. 6d. 
 
 To Whitehaven — From Douglas Harbour every Thursday night or 
 Friday morning early, calling off the Harbour on the voyage from Dub- 
 lin. Fares, 6s. and 3s. Return Tickets, 9s. and 4s. 6d. 
 
 Fleetwood to Belfast (10 to 11 hours) — Fares, 12s. 6c?. and 3s. 
 
 To Londonderry — Fares, 12s. 6d. and 4s. Return Tickets, avail- 
 able for 14 days, 20s. Through fares, from Liverpool, 17s. 6c?., 15s., 
 and 5s. Return Tickets, 25s. and 22s. 6d. 
 
 To Londonderry, via Belfast — Fares, 20s., 17s. 6c?., and 8s. Re- 
 turn tickets, 30s. and 25s. 
 
 Londonderry to Fleetwood — Every Monday and Thursday at 2 
 p. m. Fares, 12s. 6d. and 4s. Return Tickets, available for 14 days, 
 20s. Through fares to Liverpool, 17s. 6c?., 15s., and 5s. 
 
 To Fleetwood and London, via Belfast (sea passage 10 to 11 hours) 
 — Daily, Sundays excepted, per rail, &c. to Belfast. 
 
 Morecarabe to Belfast (13 hours) — Fares, 5s. and 2s. Return 
 Tickets, 7s. 6c?. and 3s. 
 
 To Londonderry, via Belfast — Fares, 12s. 6c?. and 4s. Return 
 Tickets, 17s. 6c?. and 7s. 6c?. 
 
RAILWAY GUIDE AND ROUTES. 45 
 
 ZVIostyn to Liverpool (1| hours) — The Satellite, from Mostyn 
 Quay. — Return Tickets are issued at 2s., available till Wednesday. 
 Fares, 25. and Is. 6d. 
 
 Newby Bridge to Bowness and Ambleside, calling at Ferry and 
 Lowwood — At 7} and 10^ a.m., 12,3, 4, and 7 p.m. Fares, to 
 Bowness and back, 1 s. 6d. and Is.; to Ambleside and back, 3s. and 
 2s.; the circuit of the Lake (including all stations) 3s. and 2s. 
 
 Whitehaven to Belfast (9 hours) — In connection with Trains 
 from Carlisle, Maryport, Cockermouth, Workington, and Harrington. 
 Tickets, 15s. and 4s. 6d.; from Maryport, Workington, and Harrington, 
 10s. 6d. and 4s. Ketarn Tickets, 16s. 3d. and 6s. 6c?.; from Cocker- 
 mouth, lis. 6 d. and 5s. Return Tickets, 18s. and 8s. 
 
 To Douglas, Isle of Man — Fares, 6s. and 3s. Eeturn Tickets, 
 9s. and 4s. 6d.; from Maryport, Workington, or Harrington, 7s. and 
 4s. Return Tickets, lis. and 6s. 6cZ.; from Cockermouth, 8s. and 5s. 
 Return Tickets, 12s. 6d. and 8s. 
 
 To Dublin (13 hours) — In connection with Trains from Carlisle, 
 Maryport, Cockermouth, Workington, and Harrington. Fares, 15s. 
 and 6s. Return Tickets, 22s. 6c?. and 9s. ; from Maryport, Workington, 
 and Harrington, 1 6s. and 6s. Return Tickets, 24s. 6c?. and 9s. 6d. 
 
 RAILWAY GUIDE AND ROUTES. 
 
 Lancaster to Hornby from Castle Station, Halton 2|m. 
 (Quernmoor Park right), Caton (4im.), Hornby (8Jm.), (Castle on the 
 left, road to Kirk by Lonsdale, 7 m. left). 
 
 I. Preston to Fleetwood by railway. Steamers leave Belfast 
 for Fleetwood every evening. Fares, 12s. 6d., 4s. Preston, Kirkham, 
 Lytham, Poulton-le-Fylde, Blackpool, Pop. 2180; Fleetwood. 
 
 To Ulverston by Fleetwood. — To Fleetwood by railway (I h.), Fleet- 
 wood to Rampside steamboat (1 h.), Rampside to Dalton by rail (20m.), 
 Dalton to Ulverston (35m.). 
 
 ZZ. Furness Railway. — Fleetwood to Piel and Ulverston. 
 Steamer Helvellyn across Morecambe Bay (12m.) from Fleetwood to 
 Piel Pier. Piel, Branch line to Barrow (8^-m.) left, Furness Abbey 
 (4^-m.), Dalton (6m.), Lindal (7^-m.), road to Ireleth (lfm. left), 
 Ulverston (10m.), Pop. 6433; telegraph station (Sun) S. Mary's 
 Church. Barrow Monument, Hoad Hill. 
 
 ZZZ. Lancaster to Ulverston. — Carnforth (6jm.), Silver- 
 dale (11m.), Grange (14^m.), Caik (18m.), Ulverston (22|m.). 
 
 ZV. Ulverston and Coniston. — Kirkby (l^m.) from sta- 
 tion function, Ireleth (1 l^m.), Foxfeld, Br oughton-in- Furness (14f m.). 
 Woodland, Torver, Coniston to Ambleside (8m.). 
 
 V. — Furness and Whitehaven Junction. — The miles in 
 brackets [ ] are marked from Whitehaven. Steamer from Fleetwood to 
 Piel, Furness Abbey, Kirkby, Broughton (Foxfield junction), Green 
 
46 RAILWAY GUIDE AND ROUTES. 
 
 i2ofld.(15fm from Ukerston), '[31m.] Under Hill (17 |m), [29 Jm.] 
 Holborn Hill (19|m.), [28m.] Silecroft (23f m,), Millom Park (2m.). 
 Whicham(fm.) right, [21m.] £oo^e(27fm. from station), [18m.] Esk- 
 meals (30fm.), [16^-m.] Fell (3f m.) right, Hardknott right,. Ravenglass 
 (32fm.), |m. from station, [14^m.] Drigg (34|m.), [12^m.] Seascale 
 (36|m), Gosforth 2jm right side, [11m.] Sellafield (38|m.), Calder 
 Bridge 2m., Ponsonby Hall (l}m.). [8^-m.] Braystones (40^m.) Beck- 
 ermot lm. right, Cold Fell 2fm. right, [7m.] Netherton (41f m.), Egre- 
 mont 3m. right side, [4m.], St. Bee's (44fm.), Corhichle for Whitehaven 
 (49jm.), steamers ply to Belfast, passage 9 hours. Fares, 125. and 
 5s. Return Tickets for 18 days at a fare and a half. 
 
 VI. — Whitehaven Junction to Mary port and Cockermouth, 
 Parton (1 Jm.), Harrington (4|m,), Worhington (7m.). 
 
 Workington to Cockermouth, — Workington Bridge (8m.), 
 Carneston (92-m.),Broughton Cross (12^-m.), Bridekirk (1 f m.), and Pap 
 Castle left, Cockermouth (15jm.) Fares, Is. 6d. and Is. Coaches run to 
 Keswick, Ambleside, and Birth waite. Cockermouth, Flimby, Mary, 
 port (12m.). Steamers to Liverpool twice a week; fares, 7s., 4s. 
 
 IVIaryport and Carlisle (Whitehaven Line continued). — 
 Maryport, Dearham (14^m.), Bull Gill (16|m.), Allonby (2m. left), 
 Aspatria (19|m.), Brayton (21 fm.), Lee Gate (24^m.), Ireby (5m. 
 right), Old Carlisle (ljm. right), Wigton (28£m.), Curthwaite (32|m.), 
 Eose Castle (2|m.), Dalston Qm.) right, Dalston (35|m.), Carlisle 
 (40m.) 
 
 From Lancaster to Kendal. — By Kirkby Lonsdale, 29m. 
 by road. 
 
 By Caton (5m.), Claughton (7m.), Hornby (9m.), Melling (11m.), 
 Tunstal (13m.), Barrow (1 5m,), Kirkby Lonsdale (17m.), Kearswick 
 (18m.), Old Town (20m.), Old Hutton (24Jm.) by road. 
 
 By Milnihorpe (21m.), by Slyne, (2|m.), Bolton-le-Sands (4m.), 
 Carnforth (6m.), Hale (12m.), Beetham (12,|m.), Milnthorpe (13fm.), 
 Eeversham (15m.), Leven's Bridge (16im.), Synesale (18m.). 
 
 By Burton, by road (21 fm.), Burton (lOjm.) Crooklands (15Jm.), 
 Endmoor (16m.), Barrow's Green (18|m.). 
 
 Lancaster to Newby Bridge (28m.), by Milnthorpe (14m.) 
 
 Xiancaster to XTlverston (lm.), by Leven's Bridge, (35m.), by 
 Hale (12m.), Beetham (12-^m.), Milnthorpe (13|m.), Heversham (15m.), 
 Leven's Bridge (16im.), Witherslack (20^m.), Lindale (23im.), 
 Newton (25Jm.), Newby Bridge (7Jm.), Lowwood (29m.), Greenod 
 (32m.), Ulverston (35m.); or (2.) by train at 11.20 a.m. to Grange 
 (14^m.), arriving there at 11.45 a.m., thence by coach to Newby 
 Bridge (7m.),arriving there at 12.40 p.m., then by steamer up Winander- 
 mere to Bowness (7^m.) ; or (3.) by road, over the Sands (21m.), 
 by Hest Bank (3^m.), Lancaster Sands (3§m.), Kent's bank (I2jm.), 
 Allithwaite (13|m.), Flookburgh (15m.), Cark (15fm.), Leven Sands 
 (16m.). 
 
RAILWAY GUIDE AND ROUTES. 47 
 
 Lancaster and Carlisle, — The miles between brackets [ ] 
 are marked from Carlisle. — [39] Lancaster : branch line on the left to 
 Poalton (3m.), [66m.] Rest Bank (3m.), [65m.] Bolton-le -Sands 
 (4jm.), [63jm.] Carnforth (6jm.), [58m.] Barton-in-Kendal (10£m.), 
 Farlton Knot (2^m.) on the right, railway to Ulverston on the left, 
 Westmoreland [55-g-m.] Milnthorpe (13|m.), pop. 1200, Crosskeys 
 (7^m.), Kirkby Lonsdale, [Dallam Tower (l£m.), G. Wilson, Leven's 
 Hall (l^-ni.) left side, Hon. Mrs. Howard, Sizergh Castle (l^m.) left 
 side, Sir" W. Strickland] Underbarrow Scar (l^m.) on the left, [50m.] 
 Oxenliolme (19m.) — Kendal Junction — Kendal (2m.), Windermere 
 
 (lOjlD.). 
 
 Oxennolme to Carlisle. Fares 10s. and 7s. — [41 Jm.] Low 
 
 Gill for SeJbergh (8|-m.), pop. 2235, road to Sedbergh, right (5m.) 
 through Dillicar cutting, cross the borrow, [37m.] Tebay (13m.), Orton 
 (3m.j, [29 ^m.] Shap (20jm.), ruins of an abbey, Shap Wells (4£m.) 
 right, a saline spring (lm.), Bampton (3^m.). Carl Lofts, Gumerkeld, 
 Stone Circles, Haweswater (5m.), Reagill (3m.) right side, Appleby 
 (8m.), [22m.] Clifton Moor (28m.), Lowther Castle (]£m.) left side 
 (Earl of Lonsdale), views of Cross Fell, Saddleback, Skiddaw, Brough- 
 ham Hall (Lord Brougham), viaduct over the river Lowther 100 feet 
 high on six arches (fm.), and Castle (l^m.) right side, road to Ulles- 
 water (3|m.) left, Arthur's Round Table (^m.) right, Cumberland 
 [17^m.] Penrith (32m.), pop. 6668, New Crown, St. Andrew's Church, 
 Gawains Grave, Castle, Ulleswater, Long Meg (6m.), Eden Hall (Sir 
 G. Musgrave) (2m.), Grey stoke Castle (H. Howard) (4m.) N.W., 
 Penrith Beacon right, [13m.] Plumpton (4^m.), Hutton Hall (Sir H. 
 Vane) left side (2fm.), [10|m.] Calthicaite (8m.), Blaze Fell (2m.) 
 right, [7m.] Southwaite (10|m.), road to Rose Castle (5mJ left, 
 [4^m.] Wreay (13m.), road to Cwmwhitton (IJm.), and Wetherall 
 (3m.) right, Carlisle and Maryport railway left, Carlisle (17^m.), 
 Corby Castle (P. Howard) (4m.). 
 
 Kendal and "Windermere. Line incorporated 1845, 8 and 9 
 Vict. c. 32, opened April 21, 1847. Kendal (2m.) from Osenholme, 
 Burnside(2>\m.),ro&di to Bowness left. (6^-m.), Staveley (6^m.), Coniston 
 Fells, and Winandermere and road to Bowness left (2m.), Birthwaite for 
 Windermere (10^m.). From Newby Bridge at the foot of the lake 
 the distances are, to Ulverston andHolker(8m.),Cartmel (5m.),Brough- 
 ton(10m.). Connection between Kendal and Windermere line, andWhite- 
 liaven and Maryport line. Coaches in connection with the trains to 
 Lowwood 20 minutes, Ambleside, fare 35., 40 minutes: Rydal water 
 (2m.) . Ulleswater, Grasmere (4m.). Keswick (1 6^m.), Blea Tarn (7^-m.), 
 Penrith (24f m.) t Grasmere 1 h. 5 min., Wythburn 1 h. 40 min., Kes- 
 wick 2 h. 40 min., Skiddaw (5m .), Saddleback (5m.), Borrodale (6m), Hel- 
 vellyn (8m.), Ulleswater (8m.), mail gig to Keswick station; Cockermouth 
 2 h. 35 min. from Keswick. Coaches in connection with trains leave 
 Windermere at 7 a.m. and 6 p.m. for Keswick; one leaves 12*30 p.m. 
 for Ambleside. The coach starts from Ambleside at 8*10 a.m.; the 
 coaches leave Keswick at 9*30 a.m. and 4*10 p.m. 
 
48 BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 
 
 Carlisle to Port Carlisle and Silloth for Allonby, Car- 
 
 Carlisle to Newcastle, Carlisle, [] Jm.] Scotby, [3jm.], Weth- 
 er <al for Corby Castle, [6jm.], How mill, Written Rocks (2m.) from 
 BramptOD, left side, [10^-m.], Milton, Bampton, [13^-m.], Low Row, 
 "17m.], Rose Hill for Gilsland Spa, left side, [19^-m.], Greenhead, 
 "22|m.], Haltwhistle, [31m.], Haydon Bridge, [38jm.], Hexham, 
 *48fm.] Prudhoe, [55^-m], Blaydon, [59 Jm.], Newcastle. 
 
 Carlisle, Edinburgh and Glasgow [Caledonian] — Carlisle, 
 [4.1m.], Rockcliffe, [6-l-m.], Floriston, [8-|m.], Gretna Junction, [101 
 m.], Edinburgh, [104-pi.] Glasgow, [151§m.],Per^, [241|m.] Aber- 
 deen. 
 
 A BREVIATE OF ROUTES FROM LOCAL CENTRES OF 
 OBSERVATION. 
 
 Prom Ambleside to Broughton (22jm.) — By Cockley 
 Beck Bridge, (10jm.), by Nettle Slack Bridge, Newfield, (16jm.) r 
 Donnerdale Bridge, Ulpha Kirk, (18jm.), and Duddon Bridge, (21m.) 
 
 2. — Over Walney Scar to Newfield, and thence by the Duddon. 
 
 3. — By Coniston (9m.), crossing the road to Torver (left), and road 
 to Yewdale and Tilberthwaite (right), ascent to Coniston Old 
 Man, Dow Crag, and Seathwaite on the right, to Newfield (14jm.), 
 (road to Broughton over the Fells on the left) to Donnerdale, cross the 
 Duddon and by right bank and Ulpha-kirk to Ulpha Inn (road to 
 Eskdale), recross the Duddon to Duddon Bridge, and Broughton 
 (22m.) 
 
 To Borrodale. — (1.) by Rosthwaite (22|-m.), through Keswick; (2.) 
 (13^m.), by coach to Wythburn and then afoot over Armboth Fell; (3.) 
 (lljm.), by coach to Grasmere, thence afoot np Easedale, over High 
 Raise and White Stones, and through Greenup and Stonethwaite ; (4.) 
 (18m.), by carriage up Great Langdale to Mill Beck, over the Stake 
 Pass, and by Langstreth and Stonethwaite. 
 
 To Grasmere. — (Circuit 10m.), by Clappersgate (lm.), Guideport 
 (2|m), Lough Rigg Fold (2fm.) , Oaks (3m.), Grasmere (6m.) ; (9J 
 circuit), under Lough Rigg Fell, Rotha Bridge (Jm.), Pelter Bridge 
 (2m.), taking the right-hand road, Coat How (2^m.), Red Bank (4m.), 
 Dale End (4jm.), Grasmere Church (5jm.). 
 
 To Howes Water by Troutbeck (4m.), Kentmere (7m.), Nanbield 
 Pass (Urn.), Chapel Hill (13m.); by Warndale (3m.), Troutbeck 
 Tongue, High St. (6m.), \Haijes Water is to the left], Riggindale (8m.), 
 [Bleawater on right,] Chapel Hill (10m.). 
 
 To Hayes Water (10m. the round), by Low Harthope (7m.), Hayes 
 Water Head (9m.). 
 
 To Keswick (165m.), by Rydal, (ljm.), Swan Grasmere, (5m.), 
 
BREVIATE OF EOUTES. 49 
 
 Dunmail Eaise (7m.), Wythburn (85m.), Smallthwaite Bridge (12^m.), 
 Castlerigg (15^m.), Keswick, 2, A carriage road by Coniston (8m.), 
 Brougbton (17m.), over Birker Fell, by Santon Bridge, Strands near 
 Wastwater (34m.), Gosforth, Calder Bridge, Cold Fell, Lamplugh, 
 and Scale Hill, to Keswick (69m.), or by Egremont (71 Jm.). 3. By 
 Grasmere (4m.), Goody Bridge (4f m.), Thorney How (5f m.), Far Esk- 
 dale (7m.), Wythburn Dale Head (9jm.), Greenup Dale Head (10m.), 
 Stonethwaite (13jm.), Keswick (20 Jm.). 4. By Langdale Chapel 
 (5m.), Lisle Bridge (7m.), Langdale Head (8jm.), top of Stake Pass 
 (12jm.), Stonethwaite (17m.), Eosthwaite (18m.), Bowder Stone 
 (1 9m.), Keswick (24m.). 5. By Eavenglass road to Hard-Knott Castle 
 (12m.), Stanley Ghyl (16 m.), [Broughton road intersects], Santon 
 Bridge (20m.), Strands (22m.), Netherbeck Bridge (25m.), Overbeck 
 Bridge (26m.), Wastdale Head (27m.), Styhead (29m.), Bowder Stone 
 (36m.), Keswick (41m.). 6. By Aira Bridge (28^m.), [see Ambleside 
 to Penrith], to Aira Bridge through Gowbarrow Park, up Matterdale, 
 tinder Mell Fell to Penrith road (ljm.). E. of Moor-End. 7. By Water- 
 millock (33m.), to Watermillock (17m.), under East Mill Fell, crossing 
 the Dacre, and reaching Penrith road lm. E. of Penruddock. 
 
 To KirTcstone Pass and Ulleswater (27m. circuit) — Kirkstone 
 (3jm.), Patterdale (9jm.), Lyulph's Tower (13jm.). 
 
 The Langdales — A carriage road, by Pelter, Skelwith, and Colwith 
 Bridges to Langdale Tarn ; by Lingmoor to Wall End (9 Jm.), over Great 
 Langdale (path to Esk Hause and Stake Pass by Mickleden; and Dun- 
 geon Ghyl (Jm. left) to Mellbeck (11m.), (path over the Stake Pass 
 to Borrodale, to Easedale, and to Langdale Pikes, left), by Lisle Bridge 
 (1 lm.) and Bratha river to Langdale Chapel (13m.). The routes thence 
 are: 1. by Elterwater to Skelwith Bridge; or, 2. by Eedbank and 
 Loughrigg terrace; High Close (14j m.), and Grasmere (17 m.), re- 
 joining the Keswick road at Pelter Bridge, and returning to Ambleside, 
 (21m.). 
 
 To Ravenglass (23m.), to Colwith Bridge; (Lingmoor and roads to 
 Great Langda'e and Blea Tarn, right; Colwith Force and Langdale Tarn 
 left), to Fell Foot (7 m.), (road to Coniston through Tilberthwaite and 
 Wetherlam, left), Shirestones and Wrynose (8m.) right; to Cock ley Bridge 
 (10m.), up Hard-Knott (12m.), (Newfield road and Hartfell left, Hard 
 Knott Castle right), cross Esk Bridge (Scawfell and Birker Fell right) 
 to Bout (16m.), (path by Burnmoor Tarn to Wastdale Head, Druid 
 Circle (Jm.), Bleabury Tarn ; road to Santon Bridge, Muncaster Fell 
 right; Birker Force and Stanley Gill (lm.), road to Ulpha, Devock 
 Water (ifm.), Burnscar (1^-m.), Muncaster Castle, left): a carriage 
 may be used except between Fell Foot and Bout. 
 
 To Lovjwood Inn (circuit 6fm.) by water, to Bratha Mouth 
 (l£m.), Pool Wyke Bay (2jm.), Lowwood (4Jm.), return by Holme Point 
 (4|m.). To Newby Bridge (labour's sail), to Ferry (fm), Bowness 
 (lm.), Ambleside (ljm.). 
 
 To Penrith by Stockdale (Standale Fell left, Wansfell and path to 
 Troutbeck right), to Traveller's Rest (3j m.), (Woundale Head right, 
 and Eed Screes left), to High Hartshope (6|m.), (Brother's Water left 
 E 
 
50 BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 
 
 Low Hartshope right; Place Fell right, S. Sunday's Crag left), to Pater- 
 dale Inn (9jm.), (paths to Boredale; and up Grisedale to Grasmere 
 and Helvellyn left), by west shore of the Lake of Ulles water, (Catchedecam ; 
 paths up Glenridding to Legberthwaite and Helvellyn, Stybarrow) ; Gow- 
 barrow Park; road from Aira Bridge to Matterdale; Lyulph's Tower 
 (13^-m.), all on left: on the E. shore of the lake, opening of Martindale; 
 Birk Fell; Hallin Fell, Swart Fell) to Watermillock(17m.), (Dunmallet 
 and Dacre road, left), to Pooley Bridge (19m.), (road to Haweswater and 
 to Askham, right): Dalemain Park (lm. left), through Sockbridge 
 (21 m.), Yanwath (22| m.), (Mayborough, left, Arthur's Round Table 
 (23|m.) right), over Eamont Bridge to Penrith (24|-m.), or by Kes- 
 wick road from Pooley Bridge (19m.) } over the Dacre, by Dalemain 
 Park (21m.), to Penrith (24fm.). 
 
 To Tilberthwaite, (15m. circuit,) — bySkelwith Bridge (3m.), on the 
 left over the hills (4m.), Oxenfell (5m.), Shepherd's Bridge (7m.), 
 Tilberthwaite (8^m.), Little Langdale (10m.), Colwith and Skelwith 
 Bridges, or return from Little Langdale by Langdale Chapel (12m.), 
 Elierwater, High Close, Grasmere, and Rydal. Ellerwater is 3jm. 
 from Ambleside by Skelwith Bridge or over Little Lough Rigg. 
 
 To Troutbeck, (circuit 12|m.), by Kendal Road and Low wood Inn 
 (lfm.), Troutbeck Bridge (4fm.), Kirkstone Pass (83-m.), and 
 return (4m.). 
 
 To Whitehaven (38m.) by Ravenglass Road, to Bout (16m.), Mite 
 Bridge (20m.), Santon Bridge (21jm.), Gosforth (25m.), Calder 
 Bridge (28m.), Egremont (32m.). 
 
 Windermere ; by water to Waterhead (f m.), Bratha Mouth 
 (1 Jm.), Belle Grange (4jm.), Ferry House (7m.), Belle Isle (7fm.), 
 circuit of the Isle (9^-m.), from the Pier to Lake Head (14m.) ; or to 
 Bratha Mouth (l|m.), Poole Wyke (2jm.), Lowwood Inn (4|m.), 
 Holme Point (4|m.), Landing Place (6m.) ; by land (29m.), Bratha 
 Bridge (9m.), High Wray (5m.), Ferry House (8m.), Newby Bridge 
 (15m.), Bowness (23m.); or by Esthwaite Water (17m.) by Hawks- 
 head (5m.), Sawrey (7m.), Ferry House (9m.), Bowness (llm.). 
 
 To Yewdale. — To Shepherd's Bridge (7m.), Coniston (8m.), Water- 
 Head Inn (9m.). 
 
 Birthwaite to Eslcdale by Skelwith Bridge (6jm.), and Raven- 
 glass Road to Wool Pack, Dawson, Ground (18jm.), King of Prussia 
 (22m.), Santon Bridge (25m.), Strands, (28m.). 
 
 To Coniston and Esthwaite Water, (circuit 23m.), by Bowness 
 (l^m.), Ferry House (3m.), (road to Ambleside right, station and road 
 to Newby Bridge left), Sawrey, Claife, Hawkshead, by Esthwaite 
 Water (7m.), (road to Ulverston left, to Langdale right), Coniston 
 Waterhead (10^m.), Borwick Ground (13m.), High Wray (16m.), 
 Belle Grange, Ferry House (20m.). 
 
 To Keswick (S. Catherine's and Elleray, and Troutbeck Road, 
 right), Troutbeck Bridge, (Calgarth, left), Lowwood Inn, Dove's 
 Nest, Wansfell Holme, right, Ambleside (5m.), thence to Keswick. 
 
BHEVIATE OF ROUTES. 51 
 
 To TJlleswater by carriage — (Rayrigg left, Elleray right), Cook's 
 House, cross the Windermere and Ambleside Road (S. Catherine's 
 right, Calgarth left), skirt the Troutbeck stream (Applethwaite Com- 
 mon, footpath to Kentmere right), cross the Troutbeck at the church ; 
 Mortal Man Inn (Wansfell and Yoke left, Troutbeck Tongue in front, 
 footpath to Stockdale left), go up Wounsdale Slack, join Ambleside Road, 
 Traveller's Rest, Kirkstone Pass (8m.) (See Ambleside Routes). Return 
 by Stockdale to Ambleside, and along Windermere to Bowness (8jm.) 
 
 Cocker-mouth to Keswick, by coach, leaving Cockermouth 
 1.45 p.m. for Keswick and Windermere by the vale of the Cocker, 
 (Crag and Whinfield Fell right), Lorton (3 jm.), (Whinlatter and Skiddaw 
 left, Cawsey Pike and Grisedale Pike right,) Braithwaite (8§m.) ; cross 
 Newlands river, (Derwentwater right, Bassenthwaite Water left), Port- 
 inscale ; cross the Derwent, (Crossthwaite Church left,) reach Keswick 
 (11m.) ; the coach leaves Keswick at 10.45 a.m. for Cockermouth. 
 
 Collision Water. — To Leven Water and Low Water (7Jm.), 
 by Black Bull (lm.). N. side Leven Water (3jm.), Low Water (4jm.), 
 Coniston Church (6 Jm.), Waterhead (7 Jm.) ; (guide advisable.). 
 
 To Seathwaite (17m.) — Coniston Church (lm.), Torver (3jm.), 
 Broughton (10jm.), Duddon Bridge (1 1 Jm.), Ulpha Kirk House (1 5m.), 
 Newfield (17m.) ; [or 6m. Coniston Church (lm.), summit of Walna 
 Scar (4m.), Newfield (6m.)]. 
 
 To Yewdale and Tilberthwaite (6m.) — Yewdale Grove (l^m.), Low 
 Yewdale (2jm.), Shepherd Bridge (3m.), Tilberthwaite (4jm.); join 
 Langdale and Ambleside road (6m.). 
 
 Hawfcshead round Estlnoaite Water (5m.) — Esthwaite Water (Jm.), 
 Grove (lm.), Esthwaite Hall (ljm.), Nether Sawrey (2jm.), Hawks- 
 head (5m.). A steam gondola plies on Coniston Water. 
 
 To the Ferry, by Colthaire (f-m.), Bletham Tarn (2m.), High Wray 
 (2jm.), Ferry House by Belle Grange (6jm.). 
 
 Kendal to Ambleside (15m.) by Bowness, by Bonning Yate (3m.), 
 Clay Barrow (7m.), Bowness (9m.), Troutbeck Bridge (lljm.), Low- 
 wood Inn (13 Jm.), by Staveley (5m.), Ings Chapel (6jm.), Orrest 
 Head (8jm.), Troutbeck Bridge (10m.), and Lowwood Inn (12m.). 
 
 To Cartmel. — The routes are (I.), by Lancaster and Carlisle railway 
 to Carnforth, thence to Grange, and by coach to Cartmel ; (II.) by 
 railway to Windermere, by steamer to Newby Bridge, thence by coach or 
 rail to Cartmel ; (III.) by road, passing Sizergh Hall on the right, and 
 Leven's Hall left, cross Leven's Bridge (5m.), then passing by Whit- 
 barrow Scar, and Blea Crag, and Broughton on the right, reach Cart- 
 mel (14jm.). 
 
 To Eawes Water. — The routes are, by road (I.), along the Shap 
 road to Watch Gate (5in.), thence by the Sprint up Long Sleddale to 
 the Chapel (8m.), to Sedgill (10m.), over Kentmere on the left, up 
 Gatescarth Pass, descend into Mardale, Kidsty Pike is on the left, 
 Maordale Green on the right, reach Head of the Lake (15m.). Return 
 by Kentmere up Nanbield Pass, between Harter Fell left, and High 
 E 2 
 
52 BREVIATE OF EOUTES. 
 
 St. right, descend into Kentmere, keeping the left bank of the Kent; 
 Hill Bell and foot-path to Troutbeck are to the right, Hallin bank and 
 the road to Long Sleddale on the left, cross the river above Staveley; 
 then take the train or follow the road to Kendal (4jm.); carriages can 
 go to Sedgill (10m.), but thence a cart or horse must be used : the 
 return must be made by walking, or the carriage must be sent on round 
 from Long Sleddale. 
 
 To Kirkby Lonsdale. — The routes are (I.) by rail to Holme station 
 (9jm.), thence by road (6jm.); or. (II.) by road (10m.), passing near 
 Farlton Knot ; by Endmoor and Barrons. 
 
 To KirJcby Stephen. — The routes are (I.) by rail to Tebay, (15m.), 
 thence by road (llfm.); or (II.) by road to Cross Keys (ll^m.), through 
 the Vale of the Lune, over Rain Bridge (13m.); Crossby Fell is on the left, 
 Eavenstonedale (18|m.) on the right; cross the fells for 2m. into the 
 basin of the Eden, having Wharton Park on the right, and reach Kirk- 
 by Stephen (22m.). 
 
 To Newby Bridge by road. — Pass by Scar Foot, Kendal Fell, and 
 Underbarrow Scar; near Cunswick Tarn (^m. on right), Brigsteer 
 (2m. left). Crossthwaite (4m.) Whitbarrow Scar, over Bowland Bridge; 
 Cartmell Fell near Gunner's Has, crossing the road to Cartmel (4^m. 
 on left), and reach Newby Bridge (12|-m.) 
 
 To Orton. — The routes are (I.) by rail to Oxenholme (2m.), thence by 
 road to Orton (3m.); or (II.) by road, through the Vale of the Mint, 
 passing Benson Knott on the right, reaching Barrow Bridge Inn (9m.), 
 then enter the Vale of the Lune, and reach Orton (13jm.). 
 
 To Shap. — The routes are (I.) by railway (22£m.): or (II.) by road; 
 to Watcbgate (5m.), with a view up Long Sleddale; cross Highborrow 
 Bridge (9m.), and Shap Fells for 5m. into the basin of the Lowther; 
 "Wastdale Pike is to the left, and reach Shap (16m.). 
 
 Keswick to Ambleside [Mail road], (16m.) by Castlerigg 
 (l^m.), St. John's Vale (6m.), Nag's Head (8Jm.), Dunmail Raise 
 (9^-m.), Grasmere (12m.), [29m.], by Threlkeld (4m.), Moor End 
 (17m.), Gowbarrow Park (14m.), Paterdale (19m.), High Hartshope 
 (22m.). 
 
 To Bassenthwaite Water (18m.) by Thornthwaite (4m.), Pool 
 Wyke (8m.),Ouse Bridge (9m.), Castle Tarn (10m.), Mirehouse (14m.), 
 Keswick (18m.). 
 
 To Borrodale, by Seathwaite road, by carriage : through Borrodale by 
 Castlehead Qm.), Borrow house (2m.), Lodore Inn (3m.), Bowder- 
 stone (5m.), Rosthwaite (6m.), [by Seathwaite (9m.), to Wad-mine, 
 (10m.),] Seatollar (7^m.); asoend the Hause (9fm.), descend into 
 Buttermere (Gatesgarth right, Honister Crag (10^-m.) left, footpath left 
 over Scarf gap into the head of Ennerdale), Gatesgarth (12m.), Has- 
 ness (12^m.), go down the east side of the lake (Red Pike, High Crag, 
 High Stile, and Hasness House left, Crummock water in front), But- 
 termere village (14m.); making the return by Newlands (23m.), by 
 Cockermouth road by carriage to Portinscale (l|m.), through vale of 
 Newlands, Swineside (3m.), (Catbells left, Causey Pike right), Stair, 
 
BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 53 
 
 Stony Croft (4|m.), Mill Bridge (5£m.), Aikin (6}m.); go up Keska- 
 dale Hause (Great Robinson left); go down Buttermere by Cocker- 
 mouth road; by coach to Lorton (7^m.), to Loweswater, (8^m.), Mel- 
 break right, Grassmoor, White Less Pike, and Ladhouse, thence up east 
 side of Crummock water to Scale Hill (10^m.), (road left), Buttermere 
 village (14m.); Scale Hill may be reached by way of Braithwaite (2^m.), 
 top of Whinlatter (5m.). The return may be made by Newlands 
 (14m.). From the head of the lake the tourist can proceed afoot 
 from the head of Buttermere, (I.) into the head of Ennerdale, over the 
 Scarf Gap Pass, and thence into Wastdale across Black Sail Pass; or 
 (II.) to the foot of Ennerdale, passing Scale Force (lm.), beyond 
 Crummock water and Floutern Tarn. 
 
 Calder Bridge [27m.], and Egremont (31m), by Styhead Pass 
 [See Keswick to Wastwater], [27m.], by Whinlatter and Swineside to 
 Scale Hill, thence by Lamplugh Church and Cross (6m.), crossing 
 Cockermouth, Egremont and Whitehaven road, Kirkland, Ennerdale 
 Bridge (10m.), Calder Bridge (16m.), Gosforth (20m.), Strands 
 (23m.); or by going round by Egremont to avoid the gates between En- 
 nerdale and Calder Bridge (27m.). 
 
 To Crummock Water by Scale Hill — Crummock Water (12m.), 
 Kannerdale(13jm.), Ling Crag (14 Jm.), Scale Force (16m.), Butter- 
 mere Inn (18m.); thence return by Scale Hill (4m.), Lorton (7m.), 
 Whinlatter (9jm.), Braithwaite (ll|m.); to Keswick, (9m.) — Newland 
 Haws (ljm.), Keskadale (3m.), Swineside (7Jm.), Portinscale 
 (8|m.). 
 
 Circuit of Berwentwater (11m.) by Barrow cascade (2m.), Lo- 
 dore (3m.), Grange (4m.), Bowderstone (nm.), return to Grange (6m.), 
 West side to Portinscale (10jm.), or by boat (7£m.), to Friar's Crag 
 (lm.), Lord's Island (IJm.), Stable Hills (l^m.), Broom Hill (If m.) 
 Barrow (2^m.), Floating Island (3^m.), Grange (3^-m.), St. Her- 
 bert's Isle (4jm.), Water-End Bay (5£m.), Derwent Isle (6fm.) ; 
 Strand Pier (7m.). 
 
 To Emierdale Water [20m.], by Buttermere for pedestrians, thence 
 by Scale Force (2m.), Floutern Tarn (4|m.), join the Crossdale road 
 (6m.), the Lake (7m.), by Scale Hill (11m.), along the Loweswater road 
 (12m.), High Nook (13^m.), Crossdate (16|m.), over Black Fell, the 
 Lake (17^m.), [by Scale Hill (11m.),] for horsemen, by Loweswater 
 End (13|m.), the Common (14^m.), Lamplugh Church (16m.), by 
 High Trees and Fell Dyke to Crossdale (19m.), the Lake (20m.). 
 
 To Loweswater [by Scale Hill], thence to Loweswater Church 
 (ljm.), by Kirk Head, Bar Gate, Steel Bank, and High Nook to 
 Water Yeat (2jm.), Carling Knott Ghyl (2jm.), Highwater End 
 (3fm.), Lowwater End (4jm.), Crabtree Beck (5jm.), Scale Hill 
 (1 m.). 
 
 To Paterdale [19m.] — For carriages, by Threlkeld (4jm.), Moor End 
 (8m.), Gowbarrow Park (15m.); or [14jm.], for horsemen or moun- 
 tain cart, turn off at 3m. from Penrith Road (3m.), by Thornthwaite 
 E 3 
 
54: BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 
 
 Mill (4m.), through Wanthwaite, Materdale, and Threlkeld Pasture 
 to Dockwray, near Lyulph's Tower (9m.). 
 
 To Eonister Crag (10m.), Gatesgarth (12m.), Buttermere (14m.), 
 Crummock Water, Longthwaite (17m.), Scale Hill (18jm.). 
 
 To Keswick (17m.), over Greta Bank Bridge (^m.), Naddle Bridge 
 (2jm.), New Bridge (3jm.), through Threlkeld (4m.), Scales (5jm.), 
 Moor End (7m.), Sun Inn (8m.), Springfield (9^-m.), Penruddock and 
 Hutton John (ll^m.), Stainton (lo^m.), and Red Hills (I6£m.). 
 Coach leaves at 9.30 a.m, and 3 p.m., arriving at Penrith at 12.30 a.m. 
 and 5.50 p.m. 
 
 To Sty head Pass (12m.), by Grange, Rosthwaite, Birthwaite Bridge 
 (6jm.), Strands Bridge (7m.), Seatollar Bridge (7Jm.) ? Seathwaite 
 Bridge (8m.), Seathwaite (8|-m.), Stockley Bridge (9^m.), Styhead 
 Tarn (ll^m.). 
 
 To Vale of St. John, diverging by a road at third mile stone (3m.), 
 to the right beyond Naddlebridge through the valley of St. John to 
 Stanhow (J m.), from Smalthwaite Bridge (7f m.), thence by Castlerigg 
 (llfm.), to Keswick (12fm.), or by going through Thelkeld (13fm.). 
 
 To Wastdale Head, by Crossdale, thence to Ennerdale Water 
 (lm.), Bowness (1 Jm ), Lakehead (3^m.), Gillerthwaite (5m.), over 
 Scarf Gap (7^m.), Sheepfold by the side of Lissa (8m.), to Black Sail 
 Pass (8jm.), through Moss Dale to Wastdale Head (11m.). 
 
 To Wastdale, by carriage to Seathwaite, thence afoot or on horse- 
 back to Wastdale Head (road to Watendlath, left), Lodore Inn (3m.), 
 (road to Portinscale and Grange, Bowderstone, left), (Castle Crag, Yew 
 Crag, right), Glaramara in front, road to Stonethwaite left), Seatollar 
 Bridge, over Seathwaite Beck, Stockley Bridge (road to Buttermere 
 over Borrodale Hause, Gillercombe, Four Yews, and Wad mire right); 
 Seathwaite (8^-m.), (road up Langstreth over Esk Hause, Styhead 
 Tarn, Great Gable, right), Stockley Bridge (9jm.), ascend Aaron End, 
 cross Styhead Pass to W T astdale Head (14m.) : the return (29m.) may 
 be made by Ennerdale Bridge, Lamplugh, Loweswater, and Scale Hill. 
 
 To Lowwood Inn, for horsemen, to Bowness (7^m.), to Troutbeck, 
 Guideport, Troutbeck (2m.), How Applethwaite (3m.), Cook's House 
 (5im.). 
 
 To Skelgill — For pedestrians, by Low Fold (ljm.), Skelgill (2f m.), 
 Low Skelgill (3m.), Troutbeck Road (3^m.), Lowwood (4^m.). 
 
 Another route by Buttermere and Gatesgarth, 3m. from Buttermere 
 Inn, is for pedestrians and horsemen up a mountain road, between High 
 Crag and High Stacks to Ennerdale (9m.), by Scarf Gap Pass, and then 
 over Black Sail to Wastdale Head (15m.). 
 
 To Watendlath (5^.), over the Common by Barrow Gate (2m.), 
 Bridge (2^-m.), Ashness House (2|m.), over bridge between Lodore 
 and Watendlath (3fm.), Valehead (4m.), Watendlath, Rosthwaite 
 (7^m.), by Bowderstone and Lodore (lO^-m.), Keswick (IS^-m.). 
 
 To Whitehaven (27m.) by Bassenthwaite and Cockermouth, by 
 Thornthwaite, Smithy Green (6^m.), Bassenthwaite (8^m.), Cocker- 
 mouth (13m.), Distington (22m.), Moresby (24m.). 
 
J5REVIATE OF ROUTES. OD 
 
 Penrith to Appleby (13 Jm.), and Brougli (21 Jm.), (I.) by road, 
 crossing the Eamont and Lowther (Brougham Castle and Countess 
 Pillar, right), to Mellrigg (5|-m.), (Temple Sowerby, Roman Road, and 
 Kirkby Moor, left), to Appleby (13^m.), to Brough (2 Urn.); (II.) by 
 railway (20jm.), by Shap (12m.), thence to Appleby (8^-m.). 
 
 To Hesketh Newmarket and Cockermouth — (I.) by railway to 
 Calthwaite (8m.), thence to Hesketh Newmarket by road (8^m.), or 
 (II.) by road, by coach to Moor End (9^-m.), thence by Mungrisdale and 
 Mosedale (8m.); crossing the Peterel at Kettleside (2^m.), pass Hutton 
 Park (5 §m.), (Graybeck Hall, right), Skelton Wood (8|m.), (roads to 
 Lamonby (l^m.) and to Castle Sowerby (lm.) left), cross the Caldew, 
 reach Hesketh (13m.), skirt Caldbeck Fells ; pass Uldale (7m.), 
 (road to Ireby (If m.) right), cross the Ellen, reach Castle Inn (lO^m.), 
 (road to Bassenthwaite and Keswick, left), (Bassenthwaite Water, left, 
 Amblethwaite Hall, right), cross the Derwent (High Crag, left), reach 
 Cockermouth (1 6 Jm.); (III.) (1 7m.) by railway, by Shap (12m.), thence 
 by road through Ros Ghyl and Bampton (5m.) ; (IV.) by Yanwath, to 
 Askham (5m.), (Lowther Castle, left); Lade Pot and Pooley Bridge 
 Eoad, right), to foot of Hawes water (10jm.), (Naddle Forest on the 
 left, Kidsty Pike, right), to Mar dale Green (14^m.). 
 
 To Keswick. — Coaches leave Penrith 8.30. a.m. and 3 p.m. arriving 
 at Keswick at 11.30 a.m. and 6 p.m., (17m.); cross the Lancaster and 
 Carlisle Railway (road to Ulleswater and Dalemain, and Dacre, (lm.) 
 left, to Greystoke (21m.) right), through Penruddock ( 5 fm.), (Whit- 
 barrow and Souter Fell, right, Mell Fell, left), cross the Glenderamakin 
 under Bowscale Fell and Saddleback, to Threlkeld (13jm.), Vale of St. 
 John left), cross the Greta (Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite) to 
 Keswick (17m.). 
 
 To the Nunnery, (I.) by railway to Calthwaite (8m.), thence by road 
 (5m.) ; or (II.) by the Appleby Road, diverging at Carleton (Beacon 
 Hill, left, Eden Hall, right); cross the Eden, Langwathby (4^-m.), 
 Little Selkeld, Long Meg and her Daughters (Addingham, right), 
 Kirkoswald (10m.), cross the Croglin, Nunnery (12m.), or from Eden 
 Hall, through Great Salkeld and Lazonby to Kirkoswald. 
 
 To Wigton, (I.) by railway to Carlisle and thence to Wigton ; (II.) 
 by the Hesketh Newmarket road to a road beyond Skelton Wood (9^m.) ; 
 to Sebergham (12^-m.); cross the Caldew; Rosley (16jm.) ; (Old 
 Carlisle Jm. left) Wigton (21^m.). 
 
 To Carlisle (18m.), by Salkeld Gate (4jm.), Plumpton (5m.), High 
 Hesketh (9^m.), Low Hesketh (10fm.), Carlton (15^m.), Hanaby 
 (16jm.). 
 
 To Haioeswater and Nanbield Pass — (I.) by Lowther or Askham 
 (5m.), Bampton Church (9m.), Mardale Green (13m.), Nanbield 
 (15jm.), Kentmere Chapel (19m.) ; (II.) or by Mardale, by Nanbield 
 and High St., to Troutbeck Inn (6m.) ; Haweswater is 4m. from 
 Askham, and by Bampton 12m. from Penrith. Return by Butterswiek 
 (16m.), over Moor Dorack to Pooley (21m.), by Dalemain to Penrith 
 (27m.). 
 
 e 4 
 
56 
 
 BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 
 
 To Kendal (26m.), over Eamont Bridge (lm.), Lowther Bridge 
 (ljm.), by Clifton (2£m.), Hackthorpe (4Jm.), Thrimby (7m.), Shap 
 (10m.), Toll Bar (12m.), over Shap Fells (14m.), over the lane at 
 High Barrow Bridge (17m.), by Forest Hall (19m), and over Mint 
 Bridge (25m), Shap (lO^m.), Demmings (16m.), Hause Foot (17m.), 
 Bannisdale Bridge (19|m.), Gate Side (21m.), Otter Bank (23fm.l 
 Kendal (26m.). ' 
 
 To Paterdale (15m.) — by Red Hills (ljm.), Dalemain (3fm.), 
 crossing Westmoreland road (5fm.), Water Millock (7^m.), Hallsteads 
 (8§m.), Lyulph's Tower (11m.), over Eamont Bridge to King Arthur's 
 Round Table (5m.), Pooley Bridge (5f m.), joining Cumberland road 
 (6±m.). 
 
 To Shap Alley by Askham (5m.), Bampton Church (9m.), Shap 
 Abbey (12m.), Shap (13m.), Penrith (24m.). 
 
 The steamer " Enterprise " plies thrice daily from Pooley to Pater- 
 dale, along Ulleswater. An omnibus in connection with the steamer 
 meets the trains at Penrith Station. 
 
 Pooley Bridge to Kaweswater. — Over the common to 
 Butterswick (4m.), Bampton (5m.), foot of Haweswater (7m.), Chapel 
 at head of Haweswater (10m.) ; by west side of Ulleswater to Paterdale 
 Inn (9f m.), by Water side (l£m.), Sharrow (2|m.), Guideport, Hallin 
 Fell (4|m.), Sandwyke (5|m.), Silvery Bay (7jm.). 
 
 Paterdale Xnn to Deepdale, by Wall End (3m.), Dale Head 
 (4m.), Paterdale (8m.). 
 
 To Grasmere Church (8m.), by Greysdale Tarn (5m.), over Helvel- 
 lyn to Wythburn, by Grasstead How (lm.), ridge between Striding 
 Edge and Hall Bank (2jm.), Red Tarn (3^m.), summit of Cat-sty- 
 Cam (4^m.), of Helvellyn (5^m.), Brownrigg's Well (5|m.), Wythburn 
 Inn (8m.). 
 
 Ulverston to Boioness (17m.), by Green Odd Inn (3m.), Lowwood 
 (6m.), Backbarrow (7m.), Newby Bridge (9m.) ; or by train to Cark, 
 leaving Ulverston at 9.20 a.m., by coach thence to Newby Bridge, 
 arriving there 10.40 a.m. The train leaves Whitehaven at 7, and 
 Furness Abbey at 9.10 a.m. 
 
 To Eawkshead and Ferry, Windermere, by Pennybridge (3jm.), 
 cross the Crake at Lowick Bridge (6m.), Nibthwaite (8m.), Coniston 
 Water Head (16m.), (road to Coniston lm. on left), Hawkshead 
 (17m.). The ferry is 20m. through Claife and Sawrey. 
 
 Workington to Keswick, (21m.) — to Whitehaven (8m.), Cockermouth 
 (8m.), Carlisle (35m.). N.B. — The road joins the Keswick and White- 
 haven road 4m. from Workington. 
 
 Whitehaven to Cockermouth and Keswick (I.), by railway 
 through Parton (l^m.), Harrington (4^-m.), Workington (7m.); Cam- 
 erton (9jm.), Brougliton Cross (12^m.), Cockermouth (15^m.); (II.) 
 by road (Parton left, Moresby right), Distington (4£m.), Little Clifton 
 
COAST LINE. THE DEE TO THE SOLWAY. 57 
 
 .(9m.), cross the Marron ; pass near Pap Castle, reach Cockermonth 
 (13^m.), thence by Embleton (16^m.), to Keswick (27m.). 
 
 To Ennerdale and Loweswater and Kesivick, by the Egremont road, 
 cross Keekle Bridge; Wath (5m.), (road to Cleat or ljm. right), 
 cross the Ehen; Ennerdale Bridge (7m.), (roads to Calder Bridge right 
 and Lamplugh left), cross Ehen: Bowness (10-g-m.), on Ennerdale 
 water [a pedestrian skirting Floutern Tarn and Blake Fell can from 
 this point reach Loweswater by a path on the left, or cross Scarf Gap 
 into Buttermere, or over Black Sail pass into Wastdale], (Angler's Inn, 
 Eevelin, Iron Crag and Lissa river, right, Steeple and Pillar in front) 
 Gillerthwaite (13m.), [a carriage must from this point return to 
 Ennerdale Bridge], return to Lamplugh road near the bridge; Lamp- 
 lugh Cross (21^m.), (roads to Distington (5m.) and Arlecdon (lfm.) 
 left), Lamplugh church (Blake Fell l£m. right), meet the Working- 
 ton road ; pass down the left side of the Lake to Loweswater village 
 (26^-m.), [by the direct road through Arlecdon and Lamplugh from 
 Whitehaven 24m.], thence to Keswick (ll^m.), by Scale Hill (lj-m.), 
 and Lorton (4^m.). 
 
 To Wastwaier. — (I.) By railway to Kavenglass (17^-m.), and thence 
 by road to Strands (6m.); (II.) by road, Hensingham (roads to Lamp- 
 lugh ; Cleator (f m.), left, St. Bee's (2m.) right, Dent Hill left). Egre- 
 mont (6m.), cross the Ehen (Cold Fell 2jm. left), Calder Bridge 
 (10m.), cross the Calder (Ponsonby Hall right), Gosforth (13m.), roads 
 to Eavenglass and Santon Bridge right), Bleng Bridge (13^-m.), 
 Strands (17|-m.), (Wastdale Hall and Screes, right, Yewbarrow, left, 
 Wastdale Head (22m.), Crook, (21jm.), Netherbeck (20 Jm.), over 
 Beck Bridge (18m.). 
 
 THE COAST LINE, FROM THE DEE TO THE SOLWAY. 
 
 Sea Coast, from the Dee to Liyeepool and Blkken- 
 head. — The estuary of the Dee, 5m. in breadth at low 
 water, consists of mud, swamps, and marshes, but when the 
 tide is in, the beautiful hills of Wales, sloping to the river, 
 varied com fields, pastures, and woods appear in strange 
 Contrast with the dreary uninviting shore of England op- 
 posite, on which stands Parkgate, a bathing place, with 
 houses whitewashed or brilliant in red ochre. At the 
 mouth of the river is Helbre Island, once a Roman station, 
 1m. from the mainland, with two beacons on it to mark the 
 Swash Channel, between the Hoyle Sands, leading into the 
 roadstead of Hoylake. Banks and beacons and lighthouses, 
 sands, and a country without a tree, form the approaches to 
 Liverpool. 
 
 Hoylake lies at the mouth of the Dee, near the submarine 
 forest of Leasowe. W. Penn sailed from this place for 
 
58 LANCASHIRE SEA-COAST. 
 
 America ; and William III. for Ireland to conquer James II. 
 There is an omnibus from Birkenhead. 
 
 New Brighton on the Mersey, founded by S. Atherton, 
 a merchant of Liverpool, is 6m. by steamer from Liverpool, 
 5m. from Birkenhead. Letters arrive 7 a.m. and 3 p.m., 
 leave at 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. Leasowe Park may be vi- 
 sited. S. James' Church was consecrated July 1856. On 
 the Black Rock is a battery of 16 32-pounders. Smug- 
 glers' hides were made in the caves of the Red and Yellow 
 Noses. Hotel, the Victoria. 
 
 Birkenhead in 1818 was a mere group of little cottages 
 with a population of 50 people ; it has now a population of 
 24,285. The docks were opened April 5, 1850 ; the Great 
 Float will comprise 150 acres ; the tidal dock covers 36 acres 
 and another dock 37 acres, to which it is proposed to add 
 32£ acres more. The Market Hall, 430 by 130 feet, cost 
 35,000/. The Park, of 180 acres, cost 120,000/. The 
 principal churches are S. Mary's, with a spire 130 feet 
 high ; S. John's, with a spire 150 feet high, built 1845 ; 
 S. Anne's and Holy Trinity Church. Chester is 15 m. 
 distant. (See Walcott's Cathedrals of the United Kingdom.) 
 S. Aidan's College is on the road to New Brighton. 
 
 Sea-Coast of Lancashire to Liverpool. — The whole 
 coast of Lancashire presents a fiat shore, dry at low water 
 and backed by a range of sand-hills, sown with sea-bent; 
 the sand brought down by the rivers prevents any great 
 encroachment of the sea, and the sands being loose and 
 dry above high water-mark, are scattered over the inland 
 by driving high winds. At the entrance of the Mersey on 
 this shore, 3m. of Bootle, are landmarks; 10m. N. ia 
 Forrnby Point, a ridge of sand jutting out, with a beacon 
 to show the channel to the Mersey ; to the south of this 
 point is the mouth of the Alt, and near it lies a peat-moss 
 with trunks of trees left dry by the tide. Formby, sheltered 
 by stunted and wind-bent trees, lies ljm. inland. Sand- 
 hills, barren wild heaps, rising here to 60 feet in height, 
 appear like mimic moimtain ranges ; the sands below are 
 hard and even and are lm. broad, but when there is a 
 west wind loose sand covers them to a depth of a foot* 
 
LIVERPOOL. 59 
 
 Soidhport is a struggle of art with rugged unequal ground. 
 At the estuary of the Ribble, which is bounded by dreary 
 marshes, the sands look white and transparent under a fierce 
 sun, trembling and floating in the heat, and producing a mi- 
 rage. 2m. below the mouth, and for a distance of 10m. north- 
 ward, there is a deep bed of gTanite shingle which terminates 
 at Wyre Point. Lytham, situated among a few stunted trees, 
 lies opposite Southport, and from Mr. Clifton's house a dull, 
 flat, naked shore extends to Blackpool, which commands a 
 bold and imbroken expanse of sea, and is much frequented 
 by the Manchester work-people. It was a custom for a bell 
 to ring when the ladies bathed, and every gentleman found 
 in the Parade was fined a bottle of wine. For 2 or 3 m. 
 the shore is defended by an insecure marl-bank, in places 
 50 feet high, with regular horizontal layers of sand, shells, 
 and large round pebbles driven up by the sea. The sands 
 are very hard and even, and strewn with pudding-stone. 
 From Blackpool, Blackcombe in Cumberland is seen, and 
 on proceeding a few miles to the north, Coniston Fells, and 
 soon after the great range of the Westmoreland and Cum- 
 land moimtains appears. The sea is gaining here : the 
 Penny-stone, 3±m. N. and Jm. from the shore, marks the 
 site of a little inn. At Kilgromal, one mile and a half dis- 
 tant, a legend prevails of the ringing of church- bells below 
 the ground on certain high days. Rossall Point, bound- 
 ing the estuary of the Wyre water, forms the southern 
 horn of Morecambe Bay. The nearest way to Lancaster 
 is across the dreary flats of Cocker Sands, dismal enough 
 with a gloomy sky and driving mist. 
 
 Livekpool is so called from the liverwort, a water plant, 
 which grew on a pool now covered by Paradise Street. 
 Pop. 375,955. (Hotels : Adelphi, N.-W. Railway Hotel, Vic- 
 toria, Waterloo.) In 1338 the town contributed one ship 
 and 6 men to the siege of Calais. In 1571 it was described 
 as u a poor decayed town," and is now the second port in 
 the kingdom, with a population only inferior to London. 
 Up to the 17th century pack-horses and waggons conveyed 
 goods between Liverpool and Manchester, and in 1720 a 
 canal was made between the towns. The first locomotive 
 railway in England was opened here, 1830, when Mr. Hus- 
 
60 LIVERPOOL. 
 
 kisson was struck down and killed by the engine. As the 
 late Lord Erskine said, " a handful of men, since he was a 
 boy, by industry and well-disciplined management created 
 this busy seat of trade, with its cheerful face of industry, 
 its numerous docks and overflowing riches. " In 1719 the 
 old dock, filled up in 1831, was formed, and the Sal- 
 toun Docks in 1736, and the S. George's Docks in 1761 ; 
 the total area of the docks is 235 acres, with a line of 17 
 m. of quay. There are 5m. of docks ranging from 
 Toxteth Park to Kirkdale, most having been constructed 
 since 1845. Among them the chief are the Canada, 17f 
 acres ; Collingwood, 500 by 160 yards, 13^ acres ; Bruns- 
 wick, 12 acres $ Prince's, 11 acres j and Queen's, 10 acres. 
 The Albert opened by the Prince Consort in 1845, of 7 acres, 
 is remarkable here from being surrounded by warehouses on 
 the London plan. 1500 sail can be accommodated. In 
 1857, 6,010 sailing vessels, tonnage 482,688, and 3667 
 steamers, tonnage 1,030,522 entered the port. The cus- 
 toms dues amount to 400,000/. The exports in 1846 were 
 valued at 28^ millions. Cotton from Egypt, India, and 
 America, wheat from Canada, the Black Sea, and the 
 Baltic, hides from South America and India, oil from 
 Italian olive groves, palms of Africa, the produce of Bel- 
 gium, and the Arctic seas, rice and timber from the United 
 States, mahogany from the Spanish main, copper and sil- 
 ver ore from South America, Maryland tobacco, spice from 
 the Moluccas, coffee from Ceylon, sugar from the East and 
 West Indies, and wool from various countries, are among 
 the imports. The superb Australian clippers have made 
 the voyage to or from Melbourne in 63 days ; the steam 
 clippers have made the passage out in 59 days. The New 
 York and Philadelphia line boasts a fleet of vessels equally 
 strong, large, and fast, some of 2000 tons and 350 feet in 
 length. In 1851, 2,106,000 emigrants left the port ; and 
 still, almost weekly, the boom of the signal gun and a 
 wreath of blue smoke tell that the departures have not 
 ceased. Sugar refineries, foundries, roperies, cotton fac- 
 tories, watch and clockmaking, shipbuilding, and steam- 
 engine factories, form the staple occupations. The town 
 
LIVERPOOL. 61 
 
 stands on the slopes of several small hills on the N. bank 
 of the Mersey, ranging to a height of 152 to 248 feet. 
 The soil is red sandstone. The Mersey is 2m. broad 
 in one part, and at the mouth sand-banks leave two en- 
 trances ; Victoria Channel, 12m. long, and Rock Channel, 
 10 m. long. Off New Brighton is a lighthouse 90 feet high. 
 The town covers about 8 square miles. Rodney, Parlia- 
 ment, and Shaw Streets are the best thoroughfares. The 
 principal buildings are S. Nicholas Church, built 1810, with 
 Gibson's monument to Mr. Earle; S. Luke's, by Fos- 
 ter, 1831, cost 44,000/. ; S. MichaeVs, Kent Koad, with a 
 steeple 200 feet high; Everton Church, where Prince 
 Rupert had his head-quarters in 1644; S. PauVs, 1850, 
 and Pugin's Roman Catholic Church of S. Mary, built 1845 ; 
 the Town Hall, Castle Street, by Foster, 1795, containing 
 Chantrey's statue of Canning, and Lawrence's portrait 
 of George III. ; the Exchange Buildings, built 1803, with 
 Westmacott's and Wyatt's Nelson Monument, which cost 
 9000/. ; the Custom-House, Castle Street, by Foster, with a 
 statue of Huskisson, cast at Munich, and designed by Gib- 
 son ; S. John's Market, 560 feet long, built 1812 by 
 Foster, covering two acres and having 5 walks, cost 13,662/. ; 
 Neiv Music Hall, 175 feet long, built 1849, in Hope Street ; 
 and the magnificent S. George's Hall, by H. Elmes, 600 by 
 170 feet, begun 1841 and opened by the Queen, 1851 ; it 
 cost 200,000/., and contains a public hall, 180 feet long 
 and 48 feet high, with a marble floor ; Nisi Prius and 
 Crown courts, 60 by 50 feet ; the east portico, 40 feet high, 
 is supported on 16 pillars, on a flight of stairs 200 feet long. 
 Gibson's statue of G. Stephenson stands under the south 
 portico. The first Public Paths and Wash-houses opened in 
 England, in June 1842, are in Frederick Street ; they cost 
 30,000/. In the Royal Institution School, founded by Roscoe, 
 are Romney's cartoons. The Collegiate Institution was begun 
 October, 1840; the front is 280 feet long. The Free Library 
 and Museum, occupying a plot of ground 165 by 120 feet, 
 has a hexastyle portico with columns 33 feet high, a great 
 hall, 71 by 53, including the corridors, and 48 feet high ; 
 and a reading-room, 110 by 50 and 35 feet high. The 
 
62 LIVERPOOL TO FLEETWOOD. 
 
 New Landing Stage for sea-going steamers, 1000 feet long/ 
 cost 100,000/. In March 1854, on the suggestion of Mr. 
 C. Melly, the first public drinking fountain was erected near 
 Prince's Dock. The telegraph for signalling the arrival of 
 vessels between this port and Holyhead, is on Tudor 
 Buildings. The Theatre Royal, Williamson Square, opened 
 1772, cost 60001 The Philharmonic Concert Hall, Hope 
 Street, is 175 by 109 feet and 72 feet high. The Zoological 
 Gardens were opened in 1883. Prince's Park was the gift 
 of R. V. Yates, to whom a public monument was erected, 
 1858. 
 
 The Botanic Gardens, cover eleven acres. There is a 
 Dock Observatoiy, besides that of Mr. Lascelles, who here 
 discovered satellites of Jupiter and Saturn. Gibson resided 
 here, Legh Richmond was born in St. Paul's Square, and 
 Mrs. Hemans in Duke Street. The tourist may visit, from 
 Liverpool, Croxteth Park (Earl of Sefton), Allerton, where 
 Roscoe wrote some of his chief works (he published his 
 life of Leo X. at Liverpool), Knowsley (Earl of Derby), 
 Hale (Blackburne), the birthplace of the famous giant, 
 "the Child of Hale," who was 9a feet high ; and Ince Hall 
 (C. Blundell). During the summer months steamers ply 
 to Bangor, Beaumaris, and Menai Bridge, at 10 a.m. on 
 Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, returning on the alter- 
 nate days at 11 a.m. The average passage occupies five hours. 
 
 Hallway from Liverpool to Fleetwood. — The Railway 
 passes several watering places : by Bootle (3m.), pop. 4106; 
 Waterloo (5jm.), Waterloo Hotel ; Crosby (5£m.), (Ship, 
 George), pop. 2600 ; Hightoivn and Lnce (9m.), near Ince 
 Hall, which contains landscapes by Wilson, the Alchemist 
 by Teniers, Fall of Man by Raphael, and Canova's Psyche ; 
 Formby and Altcar (ll^m.), a favourite bathing place 
 with the people of Lancaster ; Freshfield, Ainsdale, Birk- 
 dale, and SouthpoH, pop. 4765 (Bold Arms, Victoria, Royal). 
 
 Soutbport (18^m. from Liverpool), was, at the beginning 
 of the century, a rabbit warren, known as South Hawes ; it 
 is now the handsomest bathing town in Lancashire. The 
 beach extends 2m. at low water. The rise of the town is 
 dated from 1830. The Church stands in Lord Street, 
 
LYTHAM — BLACKPOOL. 63 
 
 nearly a mile long and 90 yards broad, with lawns in 
 front of the houses; the Town Hall, built 1852-3, 
 cost 4500/. The Victoria Baths were opened 1832, 
 Letters arrive 7.30 a.m., 5.40 p.m. ; are despatched 6.40 p.m. 
 The scene of the legends, Lost Farm, or Haunted Casket, 
 and of the Mermaid of Martinmere, is laid here by Roby. 
 In the mere, which is now cultivated, a canoe was found. 
 
 The railway from Liverpool to Preston is continued 
 beyond the latter town to Lytham, (13|m.), (Clifton Arms) 
 near Lytham Hall (Col. Clifton), built 1757, and a few ruins 
 of a Benedictine Priory, founded by E. FitzRoger in the 
 reign of Richard I. 
 
 Iiytham (8m. from Stockport across the sands, 5J S.W. 
 of Kirkham, and 8 from Blackpool), stands on the north shore 
 of the estuary of the Ribble, which abounds in trout and 
 salmon. The Church is dedicated to S. Cuthbert. The branch 
 railway from Preston was opened 1846. Letters arrive 
 7.15 a.m., 7.5 p.m., and are despatched 5.30 p.m. The line 
 is continued by Poulton le Fylde to Blackpool, 18m. (3jm. 
 from Poulton), (Rossall's, Clifton Arms, Albert, Royal, 
 Victoria). Pop. 2180. 
 
 Blackpool has a fine bracing air, and fine smooth, firm, 
 and elastic sands. The Parade, lm. in length, commands a 
 view of Furness, the hills of the Lake District, and the 
 Welsh mountains. The argillaceous cliffs rise from the 
 south to a height of from 3 to 60 feet above high-water 
 mark j from their base to low- water mark the distance is 
 half a mile. The population numbers 1664. The peat- 
 coloured pool, now a stream, which gave name to the place, 
 is near Fox Hall. Raikes Hall, Jm. E., is an ancient 
 building where Prince Charles James lay concealed in 1715. 
 The church is dedicated to S. John. Coaches and omni- 
 buses communicate with Lytham, Preston, and other towns. 
 The post arrives 7.10 a.m. and 6 p.m. The season lasts 
 from May to October. The next station is 
 
 Fleetwood on the Wyre, pop. 3621 (Crown, Fleetwood 
 Arms). The town derives its name from Sir Peter Fleet- 
 wood, who in 1836 foimded it on a rabbit warren, and con- 
 structed railways and a quay 600 feet long, Col. Gr. Land* 
 
64 FLEETWOOD. — LANCASTER. 
 
 mann being the engineer. Rossall Hall (2m. S.), once 
 his residence ; was in 1844 converted into the Northern 
 Church of England School. S. Peter's Church is modern. 
 Queen Victoria landed here in Sept. 1857. The lighthouse 
 is made of iron, and screwed into the rock below the sand. 
 The North Euston Hotel was purchased in 1860 by the 
 Government, at a cost of 20,000/., for a military school of 
 musketry. 
 
 Steamers ply to Belfast daily at 7.15 p.m. and to Piel, 
 across Morecambe Bay, at 10.45. 
 
 As Lancaster is the great gateway of the Lake Country 
 by land from the south, a description of this mode of ap- 
 proach follows now in its proper order, just as Liverpool 
 afforded the means of access by water to the tourist. 
 
 Lancastee, the fort on the Lune, pop. 16,168 (King's 
 Arms, Royal, Queen's), was the Caer Werid, "Green Town," 
 of the Britons, and probably the " Ad Alaunam" occupied 
 by Agricola and his legions, who drew round the hill a 
 fosse and wall, portions of which may be traced on the 
 N.W. side of the churchyard. Created a Palatinate, in 
 favour of John of Gaunt as Duke of Lancaster, it is 
 now reunited with the Crown. The Lune here flows 
 down through woods, corn fields, and meadows, and, 
 under the grey- stone houses of the town, swells into a 
 noble stream. On the summit of the hill stands the ancient 
 castle, of irregular form, and comprising an area of 380 by 
 350 feet, having a motley group of buildings of various 
 styles, with five towers, three of which are named respec- 
 tively Adrian's, Donjon, and Well; the entrance gateway 
 of the reign of Edward ILL, with a statue of John of 
 Gaunt, consisting of two large octagonal towers, each having 
 a portcullis; the Keep or Donjon Tower, a Norman build- 
 ing of uncommon grandeur, breadth of design, and great 
 simplicity, 90 feet high, was built by Roger de Poitou and 
 repaired by Ralph of Ashton, 1585. From a small turret, 
 called John of Gaunt's Chair, there is a fine view over the 
 winding Lune, Piel Castle, Morecambe Bay, and the moun- 
 tains of the Lake country, Black Combe, Old Man, Lang- 
 dale Pikes ; Skiddaw, Fairfield and Kentmere hills -, on a 
 
EXCURSIONS FROM LANCASTER. 65 
 
 clear day it reaches to the Isle of Man. The Shire Courts, 
 by Harrison, cost 140,000£. Northcote's picture of Geo. III. 
 is in the Crown Court. The County Hall, a Nisi Prius 
 Court, is Decorated, with a groined roof. S. Marys Priory 
 Church, formerly Benedictine, stands to the north of the castle 
 and is of the 15th centuiy, 140 ft. by 60 ft. and 40 ft. high ; 
 the nave is of 8 bays, and stained glass has been introduced ; 
 there is an alto-relievo of Dr. Stratford by Roubilliac, and an 
 ancient cross with Runes in the yard. The carved oak 
 screen came from Cockersand Abbey. The tower was built 
 1759. There are remains of a Dominican Friary. From 
 the Lune bridge of 5 arches, by Harrison in 1788, which 
 cost 14 ; 000Z. and is 549 feet long, or from the Aqueduct, built 
 by Rennie, lm. distant, good views of the town are ob- 
 tained ; the Poulton Viaduct is 950 feet long, of 5 arches, 
 each 70 feet in span. Professor Owen, Frankland the 
 electrician, and Dr. Whewell were educated in the Grammar 
 School. The octagonal chapter-house of S. Mary's Cock- 
 ersand, a Prsemonstratensian Abbey, 1190, is 5m. S.W. 
 
 ExcrasiONS from Lancaster. — The roads along either 
 bank of the Lune afford a succession of fine woodland views. 
 By following the left bank the tourist will pass the pretty 
 village of Hilton, and cross the river (which is famous for its 
 salmon) at Penny Bridge ; by taking the right bank he will, 
 at Queen's Road Brow, at the 4m. stone, look down on 
 the Crook of Lune, celebrated by Gray; obtaining pretty 
 peeps down the oak glades of Quernmore Park (C. Gibson), 
 2J-m. long, once the seat of the Cliffords, and surround- 
 ed by a forest; passing Ashton Hall, 4m. south, (Duke of 
 Hamilton and Brandon), once the house of the De Courcys, 
 which retains a tall square tower with angular turrets, 
 and has a good collection of pictures, including Clelia by 
 Raphael, Cartoons of Leonardo de Vinci, and works of 
 Snyders, Hopner, and Berghem, — -through the cheerful 
 village of Claughton (8m.). He will visit the Roman 
 camp and Hornby Castle (9m.), the subject of the 
 " Great Will Cause " in 1826, which is built on the site 
 of a Roman villa, and crowns a rock washed by the 
 Wenning, overlooking the vale of Lonsdale : the square 
 
66 SEA-SHORE LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 
 
 grey tower, built by Edward Lord Monteagle, and the 
 Eagle Tower, built by Lord Wemyss in 1715, remain. 
 The front was erected by Mr. Charteris. Edward Lord 
 Monteagle built the 'octagonal decorated tower of S. 
 Margaret's Church. Sir Edward Stanley of Hornby led 
 the English rear-guard at Flodden. Dr Lingard, the 
 historian, who refused a Cardinal's hat, long resided in the 
 village, and is buried in the church. There is a shaft of a 
 freestone cross in the yard. The road to Kirkby Lonsdale, 
 15m. from Lancaster, lies through Melling and Tunstal, 
 skirting the parks of Thurland Castle (13m.), which was 
 held bravely by Girlington, the Cavalier, for King Charles ; 
 and Barrow Hall (15m.), and Summerneld Hall (E. Tatham). 
 Excursions may be also made to the caves of Clapham, 
 Bavenscar, and Borwick Hall (Gr. Martin), where Lord 
 Clarendon wrote his " History of the Rebellion," and 
 Charles II. made a temporary home. 
 
 SEA-SHORE FROM LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 
 
 Morecambe Bat reaches nearly to the edge of the 
 mountains in the north of Lancashire; it rims 18m. 
 inland, and is 12m. broad, bounded by a crescent-shaped 
 shore 50m. in extent. The rivers which enter it are 
 fordable at low water. The alluvial deposit of sand and 
 mud by the Lune and Ken is gradually rilling up the entire 
 estuary between Lancaster and Furness. Before the rail- 
 way was made tEe sands formed the chief communication 
 between Cartmel and Fumess. To the north of the Lime, 
 a few low wave-worn rocks, breaking the uniform monotony 
 of the coast, terminate at Lower Hey sham, a village in a 
 secluded valley, with its houses, many of them thickly 
 covered with honeysuckles, clustering against the hill-side, 
 with a ruined chapel and an old church. Turner sketched 
 here, and Kuskin has celebrated its beauties. Round the 
 church are several tombs of very early date, some ensigned 
 with a sword and harp, and some with a sword and cross. 
 The chapel of S. Patrick is Norman, measuring 27 by 7ft. 
 6 in. ; near it are six stone coffins, hollowed out of the solid 
 
SEA-SHORE LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 67 
 
 rock. From Heysham to Morecambe or Poulton (4m.) 
 [North Western], there is a flat iininviting shore \ along the 
 east coast of the bay, corn fields, woods, and pastures succeed 
 to marsh and sand. From Hest Bank (3Jm. from Lan- 
 caster), the mail crosses to Ulverston. The white houses of 
 Silverdale are seen shining* beyond under a round bare crag. 
 The guide over Lancaster Sands conducts passengers from 
 the place where the river Ken runs over the Sands to the 
 sea (3m. from Hest Bank) to Kent's Bank (11m.). The 
 whole extent of Morecambe Bay, from Piel to the shore 
 beyond Lancaster, is seen, the stern crags of Wharton, and 
 Arnside Fells are to the right overtopped by the distant 
 Ingleborough ; the picturesque, broken, and wooded shores of 
 the Kent and the Fells of Cartmel in the mid-distance are 
 prominently thrown out by the grand barrier of the moun- 
 tains over the lakes which close in the horizon. 
 
 At Bolton, a pretty village, farms and hamlets and 
 cultivated lands appear. Warton is about 4m. distant, 
 situated near the foot of Warton Crag, a high rocky hill 
 shelving down to the bay, and bearing on its crest remains 
 of a beacon, and of old fortifications, earthworks within a belt 
 of rock, and defended by walls of unhewn and uncemented 
 stones, on a waste where there is no water. The view from 
 it is incomparable for grandeur, variety, and beauty, ex- 
 tending as it does over a smooth and brilliant bay, a rich 
 country swelling into mountains infinitely diversified in form 
 and outline, and rising along the horizon into majestic masses. 
 On the east side a low shore is seen, and beyond it a level 
 fertile country reaching to the base of the Lancashire Fells, 
 and admitting a view of Lancaster. At the head of the 
 bay the landscape is broken by rugged and barren hills de- 
 tached and approaching the sea, Arnside Knott, Wharton 
 Crag, and the blanched front of White Barrow, the 
 south point of Westmoreland, all of grey limestone, and in- 
 cluded within a grand amphitheatre of hills 100m. in 
 extent. The huge square brow of Ingleborough fills the 
 centre of the curve. On the south horn the Lancashire 
 Fells are not so high, but to the N.W. rise the majestic 
 mountains of the lakes, with the bare jagged pinnacles of 
 
 F 2 
 
68 LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON BY RAILWAY. 
 
 Coniston Fells conspicuous through the summer haze ; 
 awful forms with a thousand shades of colour, obscured 
 and shadowy, but apparently magnified, or on a clear day 
 soaring with long shivered tops limned out with perfect 
 distinctness, every cleft, ridge, and peak standing clear 
 against the sky. The Lady's Cliff and Morecambe Sands 
 are the subjects of two of Roby's legends. 
 
 At the estuary of the Kent, a shallow but silent stream, 
 from among peat mosses, wooded insulated crags jut out 
 from the level shore, and are thickly covered with mountain 
 ash and oak, which lend richness and grace to the coast. 
 
 The principal heights are Midip Fell, Math, and Castle 
 Head. Morecambe Bay, at its head, is divided into two 
 parts by the peninsula of Cartmel (3m. across), a lofty, 
 ragged, and bare projection, terminating in Windermere 
 marsh. On the east, reaching to the flat level of the marsh, 
 are the long mountainous ridges of Grange . and Flookburgh, 
 opposing a steep front to the sea, rocky, broken, and over- 
 grown with coppice woods, but at the head covered with 
 heather and crag. Cartmel lies 2m. N.W. in a well- 
 w^ooded glen, encircled by dark rocky hills. Holyivell, a 
 medicinal spring, is 2m. S. To the south of Humphrey 
 Head the coast is flat and sandy as far as Windermere 
 marsh, which is now cultivated for pastures and corn-fields. 
 
 Lancaster to Ulverston by Railway. — The railway, 
 incorporated in 1844, passes through Hest Bank (3m.), 
 Bolton, Camforth, Silverdale, Arnside, Grange, Kent's Bank, 
 Cark, and Cartmel to Ulverston. 
 
 For Cartmel (Camphill) railway station, near Carnforth. 
 See Walcott's Minsters, &c. At Dunald Mill Hole, 
 Nether Kellet (2m.), Kellet Brook runs for 600 ft. through 
 a stalactical cave and tunnel under ground. At Wither- 
 slack (5m.) Dean Barwick was born. 
 
 Brotjohton East (2m. N. of Cartmel, and 3Jm. S. of 
 Newby Bridge) contains S. Peter's Church, built 1745. 
 Cark railway station is 2m. S.W. of Cartmel. Cartmel 
 Fell (7m. N.) is 4m. N.E. of Newby Bridge, 7m. W. of 
 Kendal, 13m. N.E. of Ulverston, Grange railway station 
 (2Jm. E.), situated on the estuary of the Winster, consists 
 
LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON BY RAILWAY. 69 
 
 of scattered houses dotted over the hill which overlooks 
 Morecambe Bay. It is much frequented in the bathing 
 season. S. Paul's Church was consecrated Oct. 1853. 
 Holker Hall (Earl of Burlington), 2m. S.W., contains 
 pictures by Claude, Wouvernian, Bubens, Hobbinia, 
 Borgognone, N. Poussin, Zucearelli, Vandyke, Lely, and 
 Sir J. Reynolds. 
 
 On the east side of Cartmel is Flookburgh ; from it the 
 Lev-en Sands extend from the river Leven to Ulverston. 
 The Sands (3m. broad) are soft and muddy, and to walk 
 over them is annoying and tedious. There is a ford oyer 
 the river \ the estuary at high water assumes the appear- 
 ance of a lake. To the east is the long, dark, and pre- 
 cipitous front of Cartmel Fell, streaked with stones above 
 and with yellow stripes of corn-land below ; to the west 
 the country wears a gentler aspect. The view up the 
 Leven is picturesque and grand \ a bold wooded headland 
 rises above the ford, the sylvan fells and green ridges of 
 Ulverston appear in front of the mountains of Coniston and 
 Windermere, and below Ulverston are the groimds of 
 Conishead Priory. Chapel Island was occupied by a priest 
 who said prayers for all travellers. Ulverston is on the W. 
 side of the Leven, lm. from the shore. Loiver Furness is 
 situated on a peninsula bounded by Morecambe Bay on the 
 east, and on the west by the estuary of the Duddon. 
 
 Baelway prom Piel to Ulverston, through Dalton ; 
 the junction of the railways from Lancaster and Piel. 
 
 Peel Peer ; telegraph station. The pile of Fouldrey, the 
 subject of one of Boby's traditions, was built on a rocky 
 islet by the Abbot of Furness, in 1327, and consists of a 
 flanking square tower, a curtain wall and fosse on the land 
 side, towards the sea the scarped cliff offering a natural 
 defence ; the keep forms a tower of three storeys, with 
 walls 9 feet thick, each of which is subdivided into three 
 oblong apartments. Piel forms with Fleetwood the finest 
 harbour between the Clyde and Holyhead. Here Lambert 
 Simnel landed in 1487 to try his wager for a crown. 
 Rampside is on the S. extremity of Furness, and on N. 
 side of Morecambe Bay, and 5m. S. of Furness Abbey. 
 
70 LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON BY RAILWAY. 
 
 It is a rising watering place, near a moss full of the remains 
 of a forest. 
 
 Daltok-in-Ftjrness, a telegraph and railway station, 
 5m. S. of Ulverston, 5m. N.E. of Barrow, lm. 
 N. of Furness Abbey, is a neat, clean, old-fashioned 
 town. On High Haume, lm. N., are remains of a beacon. 
 Gleaston Castle is 2^m. S.E. At Hawksdale, lm. S., 
 Nicholson, the topographer, lived. The Church of S. Mary, 
 repaired 1832, contains an ancient font and old stained 
 glass. Dalton Castle was the court house of the Abbots of 
 Furness. It forms an oblong of two storeys ; the lower- 
 most was a prison, with round-headed doorways and 
 naiTow apertures for light. The uppermost has decorated 
 flowing tracery in the windows ; at each corner of the 
 parapets a seated knight, in the armour of the time of 
 Edward III. There is a very fine view from Birk Bigg, 3 
 m. east. 
 
 Barrow (railway station), in 1836 a small village with 
 300 inhabitants, has now a population of 2000. It is the 
 chief port for the shipment of the ore and minerals of the 
 Furness district. A steamer plies daily between Piel Pier 
 and Fleetwood, and the Ulverston and Lancaster Bailway 
 was opened in 1857. At low water the tourist may cross the 
 Sands to Walney Island ; the South-End Lighthouse there 
 (68 feet high) was built 1790. From Conishead Priory to 
 the mouth of Morecambe Bay the coast offers a pleasing 
 appearance, being enriched by cultivated hills and wooded 
 headlands. The tourist passes through Ulsivick, Bardsey, 
 and by Bay Cliff to Aldingham, when the country to the 
 southward looks tame, brown, naked, and dreary. The 
 south and south-west fronts of Lower Furness are protected 
 from the sea by the crescent-shaped Walney (the walled 
 island) Isle, a mossy flat sand-bank, 3m. long, separated 
 from the mainland by a channel 1 to 2m. in breadth. On 
 the south side is an enormous ridge of pebbles. JN"ear it is 
 a cluster of small low islets, including Barrow and Piel 
 Islands. When crossing the lofty common of Birkrigg, 
 between Dalton and Ulswick, a delightful and extensive 
 view is obtained from the beacon of the parks of Conishead 
 
ULVERSTON. 71 
 
 Priory and Holker Hall, the crescent of Morecarnbe Bay, 
 the coast of Lancashire to Liverpool, the hills of Wales, 
 including Snowdon, Ulverston to the N.E., backed by 
 Furness Fells, the heathy dome of Black Combe, Scaw 
 Fell Pikes, Helvellyn, Fairfield, and Coniston Old Man. 
 Tourists can return in a carriage from Furness to Ulverston 
 by Newton, Stanton, and Adgarley, and so command this 
 view. 
 
 The railway (branch line), after leaving Barrow, passes 
 by Furness Abbey (Furness Abbey Hotel), Dalton, and 
 Lindale stations to Ulverston. 
 
 ULVERSTON. 
 
 (Pop. 6742 ; Sun, Braddyll's Arms.) Ulpha's town, 
 11m. N.E. of Piel Pier, 15m. from Brought on, 16m. 
 from Bowness, 28m. from Lancaster by rail and 22m. 
 by road, 22m. from Ambleside, 25m. S.W. of Kendal, 
 and 51m. N.W. of Whitehaven, is a cheerful neat town, 
 seated on uneven ground at the foot of hills on the Leven 
 and Crake. The terminal addition of " stone " (im- 
 plying a castle) to the Danish name of Ulf, indicates that 
 the Danes were obliged to protect themselves by building 
 strongholds. Its manufactures include linens, checks, and 
 ginghams j it possesses some iron furnaces, and exports 
 iron and copper ore, coppice wood, slates, and gunpowder. 
 The estuary of the Leven has retreated l|m., and a ship 
 canal, constructed by Eennie 1794-5, for rather more than 
 that distance, communicates with the sea at Morecarnbe 
 Bay. On the north side are bleak and lofty hills, bare of 
 wood, but with good outlines ; in the centre of the parish are 
 elevated mere3, sloping down to morasses in a sterile valley. 
 Below the town and round Conishead Priory the country 
 is rich and varied by gently rising and wooded eminences. 
 The minerals of the Fells in the neighbourhood are copper, 
 iron (the richest iron ore in England), limestone, blue and 
 green slate. S. Mary's Church was rebuilt 1804, but 
 
 F 4 
 
72 EXCURSIONS FROM ULVERSTON. 
 
 retains the Norman tower and door of an earlier structure. 
 The altar piece is by Sir J. Reynolds. Irinity Church 
 was built 1832. In the neighbourhood are the most 
 considerable iron mines in England, 3m. W. Conishaed 
 Priory, 2m. S.E. (T. B. G. Braddyll), lately rebuilt on the 
 site of an ancient Priory of the time of Henry II., has 
 been called from its position u The Mount Edgcumbe of 
 the North." It comprises a hall, 61 by 23 and 40 feet 
 high, and cloisters 177 by 19 feet, and contains armour of 
 the time of Edward IV. and Henry VII., chairs from the 
 Borghese Palace, and a gallery of pictures by Titian, 
 Caracci, S. del Piombo, Vernet, Domenichino, Zucchero, 
 Spagnoletto, Guido, Holbein, Mieris, Wouverman, Van- 
 dyke, Lely, and Reynolds, shown on Wednesdays and 
 Fridays. Swart Moor, once the residence of G. Fox, the 
 Quaker, and called after Martin Swart, a German baron, 
 and the general of Lambert Simnel in 1486 (lm. N.W.), 
 is near Swart Dale (G. C. Sutherland), and Lightburn House 
 (A. Brogden). Post-office letters arrive 9.10 a.m., and are 
 despatched 2.25 and 8.50 p.m. There is a coach to Lan- 
 caster, Mondays, "Wednesdays, and Fridays; the Eoyal 
 Mail leaves the Sun Inn at 1.20 p.m., returning 6.30 p.m., 
 and the New Times from BraddylFs Arms 7.20 a.m., return- 
 ing 3.15 p.m. to Milnthorpe station. 
 
 Hoad Hill, 450 feet high, is a seamark 100 feet 
 high and 40 feet in diameter. There is a stone pillar 
 140 feet high, to the memory of Sir J. Barrow, Sec. to 
 the Admiralty, who was born in a straw-thatched 
 cottage on Drageley Beck -, the first stone was laid May 
 15, 1850. 
 
 Excursions from Ulverstok. — Froin Ulverston to 
 Hawkshead the distance is 19m. ; to Furness Abbey, 7m. 
 If the tourist proceeds by the road to Coniston Water (16 
 in.), at the junction of the Hawkshead and Broughton road 
 (4m.), he will enjoy the beautiful prospect of the lake, the 
 broken shores at its foot, the stern grandeur of the 
 mountains about its head, and the Fells sublimely towering 
 above the wooded banks, the mitred front of Scaw Fell 
 Pikes, the broad and verdant crest of Helvellyn, Fairfield, 
 
BROUGHTON. Yd 
 
 and Old Man, seated between Walney Scar on the left and 
 Wetherlamb to the right. 
 
 Ulyeestox to Coxlstox, Fuexess Abbey, axe- Brough- 
 ton by Railway. — From Ulverston the tourist can reach 
 thelakes, (I.) by rail to Coniston, through Broughton, Wood- 
 land, and Torver ; (II.) by the ferry across Windermere to 
 Bowness ; or (III.) by Newby Bridge (8m.), at the foot of 
 Windermere, by steamer up the lake to Bowness, Amble- 
 side, or Lowwood Inn. 
 
 On the Fumess railway the principal stations beyond 
 Ulverston are Kirkby Ireleih, Broughton-in- Fumess, Booth, 
 Ravenglass, S. Bee's, and Whitehaven. 
 
 The next station to Furness is Kirkby Ireleth, IJm. 
 from the station. (Pop. 3000.) 
 
 Fuexess Abbey, a railway station, lm. S. of Dalton. 
 (See Walcott's Minsters, &c.) (xleaston Castle, 2m. E. of 
 Fumess, retains three square towers and a wall enclosing 
 a court 288 bv 168 feet. 
 
 BROUGHTON. 
 
 Beoughtox-ix-Fuexess, or West Broughton, (King's 
 Head,) pop. 1297, railway station, is 10m. from TJTver- 
 ston by road, 15m. by railway ; 9m. NW. of Furness, 
 14m. fromPiel, 30m. from Lancaster, 36m, from Whitehaven, 
 Jm. S. of the Duddon, and ^m. from Duddon Sands. The 
 church is dedicated to S. Mary Magdalene. Iron, copper, 
 and roofing slate are found in the adjoining mountains ; the 
 town was unce famous for woollen yarn. Broughton Castle, 
 Jm. X., retains part of the old tower, which was fortified 
 by Sir T. Broughton, the adherent of Lambert Simnell, who 
 fell at the battle of Stoke, 1487. 
 
 Beoughtox to AiTBLESEDE, by railway and road. — The 
 tourist takes the Fumess railway to Church Coniston, and 
 thence proceeds to Ambleside by road. 
 
 Ambleside (for pedestrians and horsemen). — The tourist 
 will follow the route through Ulpha Kirk, and by Eskdale. 
 At Ulpha Kirk (4Jm.) he must cross the stepping-stones 
 
74 EXCURSIONS FROM BROUGHTON. 
 
 to the moor, and with the lark carolling above his head, a 
 sound never heard among the mountains, before he crosses 
 the crest of the uplands, take a road to the right. From 
 the central mass of mountains reaching from Hard-Knott to 
 Scaw Fell, now in view, the vales are parted off like the 
 radiating spokes of a wheel. Descending into Eskdale, 
 with its ruddy-coloured roads, the tourist should turn to 
 the left of the village up a wooded glen, and visit Dale- 
 garth Force (8|m.), now called Stanley Ghyl by its pro- 
 prietor, Mr. Stanley of Ponsonby Hall. The keys are kept 
 at the farm-house. The cascade of white, flashing water, 
 62 feet high, leaps down from terraces of rocks between 
 two precipitous crags, one of which is covered with a group 
 of feathery larches and tapering spruce fir trees, and then 
 rushes forwards under the dense shadows, with broken 
 gleams lighting up the wavy verdure of ash and birch, oak 
 and beech, hazel and holly, the ferns and wild flowers, that 
 bend to the rapid stream. Most beautiful is the flowing 
 robe of headlong waters, as if of molten gems with fringes 
 of pearl and diamonds, and festoons of flashing snow-white 
 spray sprinkling the foliage, and adding freshness to its 
 bright green, while the sun images his light in the foam 
 and adds prismatic beauty and momentary rainbows to 
 that which is already so full of loveliness. There is a 
 pretty moss-house, besides two rude wooden bridges: 
 a squirrel could once travel along the tree-tops from 
 Dalegarth to Hard Knott. 
 
 Birker Force (lOJm.), a waterfall 65 feet high, dash- 
 ing over rocks, should likewise be visited before the tourist 
 crosses Wrynose and Hard Knott on his way to Amble- 
 side (18m.). 
 
 Black Combe, 1919 feet high, 6m. from Broughton, can 
 be reached from the Tower at Duddon Grove (2m.), or by 
 diverging at Broadgate on the Bootle main road, and then 
 ascending the hill-side ; or at Blackbeck beyond Duddon 
 Grove, on the Bootle Fell road, turn off over the hill on his 
 left hand. At Sunken Kirk a Druid's circle of 32 stones (1 
 m. E.) is passed on the lower route. It derives its name 
 from the dark colour of the heath upon its sides. Talk 
 
EXCURSIONS FROM BROUGHTON. YD 
 
 Hill in Staffordshire may be seen on the summit ; seven 
 English and as many Scotch counties, the Isle of Man, and, 
 before sunrise, occasionally the dark ridge of the Irish 
 coast. On the summit is an extinct crater, as at Helyellyn 
 and Coniston Old Man ; but in those instances the hollow 
 has been filled up by a tarn. There is a second circle of 
 22 stones near Sunken Church. 
 
 " From the summit of Black Combe, (dread name, 
 Derived from clouds and storms,) the amplest range 
 Of unobstructed prospect may be seen 
 That British ground commands: low dusky tracts 
 Where Trent is nursed, far southward Cambrian hills, 
 To the south-west a multitudinous show, 
 And in a line of eyesight linked with these 
 The hoary peaks of Scotland that give birth 
 To Teviot's stream, to Annan, Tweed, and Clyde, 
 Crowding the quarter whence the sun comes forth, 
 Gigantic mountains, rough with crags beneath ; 
 Right at the imperial station's western base, 
 Main ocean, breaking audibly, and stretched 
 Far into silent regions blue and pale, 
 And visibly engirding Mona's Isle." 
 
 Duddon Gkoye, near Howe's Bridge, is 2m. from 
 Broughton and 6m. from Millom. At Swineside there are 
 remains of a Druidical circle, of which about 30 large stones 
 remain. From the road over Stone- Side, between Furness 
 and Dudclon Grove, there is a beautiful view of TJlpha, 
 Seathwaite, and Donner Dale, a green garden in a desert, 
 the Duddon flowing between bare mountains, and, under 
 Walla Barrow, over a rocky bed. Beyond are seen Conis- 
 ton Old Man, Wrynose, Hard Knott, Scaw Fell, and Lang- 
 dale Pikes. A very handsome church was consecrated at 
 Thwaites (4m.), July 30, 1854. 
 
 Millom, 4m. from Broughton, 2m. from Holborn Hill 
 station, is isolated between the mountains and the Duddon, 
 which here contains salmon and sand-eels. The neighbour- 
 hood produces limestone, ironstone at Hodbarrow, and cop- 
 per ore at Ulpha : there are holy wells in the neighbour- 
 hood. Several old customs long prevailed here ; wakes fop 
 
76 EXCURSIONS FROM BROUGHTON. 
 
 the dead, cornlaiting, the gift of corn-seed to a newly mar- 
 ried couple for their first crop, and the eating of hock pud- 
 ding on Christmas day ; bees were said to sing and oxen to 
 kneel in the field at midnight on Christmas eve. The 
 castle was built, 1335, by Sir J. Huddlestone ; the ivied keep 
 Is shaded by trees, with a cheerful rookery, and retains a 
 single tower with turretted angles, and walls 7 feet thick, 
 now occupied by a farmer. Holy Trinity Church comprises 
 a Norman nave, an octagonal font with the arms of Huddle- 
 stone, water-drain, open seats, some brasses, two effigies of 
 alabaster on a beautiful altar tomb ; an effigy of wood of 
 the 14th century, and remains of a churchyard cross. 
 
 Broughton to Ravenglass by Kail way. — After leav- 
 ing Broughton the railway passes Green Road and Under- 
 Hill stations, and near the harbour at Barwick rails; 
 Holborn Hill station, so called from the Dane Holborn ; 
 by Silecroft station (Millom Park, 2m. distant) ; Bootle 
 station, and after Esk Meols station arriving at Ravenglass. 
 
 Broughton to Ravenglass by Road. — The coast road 
 to Ravenglass crosses Duddon Bridge, and passes through 
 Wliicham (8m.). S. Mary's Church contains an ancient 
 font. There is a large tumulus in Arrow Field. A battle 
 was fought at Stones Croft. From JVhitbeck, where there 
 is a vein of peat moss containing oak and fir, there are 
 good views of the Welsh and Scotch mountains, the Irish 
 Sea, and the Isle of Man. S. Mary's Church contains a 
 stone font and an open timber roof. The u Standing Stones " 
 at Hull Force are remains of a Druidical temple. There 
 is also a circle of 12 stones, 20 yards in diameter, at Anna- 
 side, with remains of a building on the north side ; a third, 
 called the Kirk Stones, 30 in number, and portions of a 
 double circle remain at Gutterby, with a cairn 15 yards 
 in diameter, at a distance of 200 yards. 
 
 Broughton to Seathwaite and Cockle y-Beck. — 
 The toimst proceeds up a gentle rising ascent on the Bootle 
 road, turning to the right instead of crossing Duddon 
 Bridge (ljm.), [the road over the bridge leading across 
 Stoneside Fell to Bootle]. Skirting the left bank of the 
 river, the tourist passes by orchards and cottages rising up 
 
EXCURSIONS FROM BROUGHTON. 77 
 
 to the fern-clad common (3m.), and in sight of Duddon 
 Grove ; he crosses the river at Ulpha Kirk (4Jm.) ; [a 
 road here diverges 'to Eskdale over the Fell :] and then 
 comes in sight of Walna Scar, Seathwaite Fell, Cove, and 
 Blackrigg, again re-crossing the river at Donnerdale Bridge, 
 he meets the direct road by Broughton Mills from 
 Broughton, and reaches New Field (6^-m.), near Seathwaite 
 Chapel. The dale, flanked by Old Man and Dow Crag on 
 the left, and on the right by Grey Friars, is diversified by 
 wooded eminences and craggy monnds, grey farms and belts 
 of sycamore. The peasants here are often found working in 
 the fields on Sundays, to save their harvest from ruin in 
 consequence of the changeable nature of the • weather, 
 At the little inn at Ulpha Kirk (3 j-m. from Broughton, 
 18m. from Bootle, and 20m. from Kendal), some university 
 undergraduates, by way of merriment, wrote a note in Latin, 
 desiring their bill, to the landlord, Gunson, who, to their 
 amazement, returned the items in Greek. Near this place 
 a lady was destroyed by a wolf at the well of Lady's Dub. 
 The valley once formed a park filled with gigantic deer. 
 At S.John's Church, Newfield, Eobert Walker, the "Won- 
 derful," born 1709, at Under Crag, Seathwaite, was the 
 parish priest during 60 years ; his curacy, which he held 
 67 years, never exceeded 50/. a year, yet he educated twelve 
 children with respectability, was very benevolent^ and left 
 2000/. at his death, 25th June, 1802, in the 93rd year of 
 his age. Lpon leaving Seathwaite by the brook, with Under 
 Crag rising to the left, and ascending Walna Scar, the level 
 valley is seen dotted over by grey rocks crested with wavy 
 birch trees and surrounded by craggy hills of a russet brown, 
 Where the Duddon joins the sparkling Seathwaite brook ; 
 in the midst of wild and beautiful scenery, winding 
 under steep crags with fallen masses at their base, there 
 is a view of the pass into Donnerdale, flanked by the steep 
 Ten on the right and Wallabarroiv Crag to the left. 
 There is an old Hall, and the names of Grass- Guards and 
 Brig- Gard recall the keeping of watch and ward in dis- 
 turbed times. The path now skirts a brook flowing from 
 Seathwaite Tarn, and crosses it at Nettleslack Bridge. 
 
78 SEA-COAST — PIEL TO RAVENGLASS. 
 
 [A track here diverges to Con iston over'Walna Scar.] Gold- 
 rill crag is 2ni. distant, and the Birks, a conical hill, comes 
 in sight ) the river, clear and bright, here makes deep pools, 
 (locally called "pots,") in its rocky bed, and hollows out 
 mimic arches in its banks ; Wrynose rises above the bleak 
 savage valley, flanked on the left by Harter Fell, and by 
 Grey Friars on the right. At Cockley Beck (12m.) the 
 tourist can pass into Langdale over "Wrynose, into Fskdale 
 over Hard Knott, or to Ambleside (10^-m.). The next town 
 is Booth (Bot-Hill), so called from its beacon, l^m. from 
 the station. S. Michael's Church, built of rubble and red- 
 sandstone, is Early English, with a Norman chancel arch, 
 brass of Sir H. Askew, 1562, lord of Seton, and an octa- 
 gonal marble font, c. 1300, with the arms of Huddle- 
 stone. There are remains of a market cross. There is a 
 trout tarn lm. S., 600 feet in circumference, situated among 
 morasses abounding in wild-fires and will-o'-the-wisps. 
 The east end of the church of S. Leonard's Benedictine 
 nunnery, Seton, remains, with some Early English win- 
 dows. Troughton the optician was born at Corney, 2 
 m. N. The last place of interest passed before reaching- 
 Kavenglass is Fsk Meols. 
 
 Sea Coast : Piel to Kavenglass. — Kesumingthe coast 
 line, the shores between Barrow and the Duddon are flat 
 and sandy. The estuary of the Duddon, 4m, broad, is 
 gradually hemmed in by the Coniston Fells on the right, 
 and by the picturesque and magnificent group of Cumber- 
 land hills on the left. To the east is a range of smooth-topped 
 slate hills, which grow rugged inland ; on the W. they 
 appear indented, waving with woods, and varied by the 
 occurrence of meadows and knolls, glens and banks ; above 
 all towers the tremendous front of Black Combe, majestic 
 and dark. To the north of the Duddon, a dull, naked flat, 
 some miles in breadth, and bordered along the shore by 
 sand-hills or a low bank of marl, lies between the moun- 
 tains and the sea. Near Gutterby Bay is Black Legs, a 
 rock infamous for the number of wrecks of which it has 
 been the occasion. 
 
 About lm. from the shore of Selker Bay are found 
 
KAVENGLASS. i\) 
 
 fragments of black wood, said to be remains of Ecman 
 galleys. On the common adjoining Esk Meols (railway 
 station), a region of rabbit warrens and sand-bills, are traces 
 of a Roman encampment. The bay is boimded by deposits 
 of the sea, a low bank of earth and layers of round pebbles. 
 2m. north of Bootle, the mountains rise on the east, at 
 distances of 3, 5, or 15m. from the sea, and to the north is 
 the great promontory of S. Bee's, and seaward three tall 
 mountains mark the Isle of Man. 
 
 " Two voices are there ; one is of the sea, 
 One of the mountains, each a mighty voice ; 
 In both, from age to age thou didst rejoice, 
 They were thy chosen music, Liberty." 
 
 At the north end of Esk Meols there is an opening, Jm. 
 broad, in the sand-hills, through which the Esk, the 
 Mite, and the Irt flow into the sea. On the border of this 
 creek and dismal waste of sand and mud, stands 
 
 EAVENGLASS. 
 
 (Pop. 400 (King's Arms), 6m. from Whitehaven, 6m. 
 from Bootle, and lm. from Muncaster), the town of the 
 " blue streams," where shoals of herrings were so dense that 
 a ship could not sail through them; where on the con- 
 fluence of the Mite and Irt, which in 1695 produced pearl 
 mussels, horses and men race, and there are wrestling and 
 quoit-playing at fair time, on the eve, and festival day, and 
 morrow of S. James, proclaimed by mounted officials of 
 the lord of the manor ; and still the old custom of u riding 
 the fair" on June 8 is occasionally observed. There is a con- 
 siderable oyster fishery. The view from the Mite Bridge re- 
 deems all the meagreness of the coast ; a sublime prospect of 
 the mountains, an inner range with various hues, and behind 
 it four yet vaster monarchs/each rising from its base, and 
 thrusting its summit into the sky, but each parted from its 
 fellows by tremendous gaps. The chequered effects of light 
 and shadow are superb on a gloomy day, with short partial 
 gleams of sunshine piercing through volumes of clouds and 
 
80 EXCURSIONS FROM RAVENGLASS. 
 
 resting on the naked front of Wastdale Head and the long 
 ridges of the Screes, especially when a rainbow appears sus- 
 pended above them in the air. At Walls Castle there are 
 some Roman remains, Roman and Saxon coins, and stone 
 arrow-heads and axes have been found here. 
 
 Ravenglass to Devocke Water and Btirnscar. — 
 On JBirkby Fell, near Devocke Water, is Burnscar (Barna's 
 Rock), which has been called the ruins of a Danish city. It 
 forms an oblong square 300 yards E. to W., by 100 yards N. 
 to S.j with walls about 3 feet high, and retaining traces 
 of a central and cross streets, and of outbuildings 3m. 
 in circuit: an ancient road fromUlphato Ravenglass passed 
 through it. Devocke Water upon Birker Moor (6m. from 
 Ravenglass), is Jm. long, with an outlet on the east, con- 
 taining fine red trout and frequented by the Devocke water- 
 mew. 
 
 Muncaster Castle, (6m. from Bootle, ljm. of Raven- 
 glass,) (Lord Muncaster,) standing on a hill to the north of 
 the Esk, was nearly rebuilt by John, first baron ; the square 
 tower is more recent. It commands a fine view of Hard 
 Knott, Wrynose, and Scawfell, beyond the woods planted 
 by that nobleman. It contains a bedstead of the 15th 
 century, a carved oak mantelpiece in the hall, and the Luck 
 of Muncaster, an ancient glass bason, 7 inches in diameter, 
 enamelled with white mouldings, the gift of Henry VI. 
 (who took shelter here after the battle of Towton Field) to 
 Sir J. Pennington in 1461, and several family portraits. The 
 castle possesses a deer park and heronry. S. Michael's Church 
 has a sancte-bell-cot, an ancient cross, 4 ft. 9 in. high, a 
 Norman chancel arch, and 4 brasses. 
 
 lo Wastwater, the tourist follows the Whitehaven road 
 by Carleton Hall, 3Jm. from Wastwater, and 4m. from 
 Ravenglass and Drigg, diverging to the right near Ireton 
 Santon, skirts the park of Ireton Hall ; an old manor-house 
 upon a hill, and retaining an old square peel and stained 
 glass. Captain Lutwidge, the circumnavigator and com- 
 panion of Captain Cook, lived at Holme Nook. One quarter 
 m. W. is S. Michael's Church ; in the garth is a cross 
 with braids and a cable pattern. At Ireton, 3|m. from 
 
STRANDS TO SCAWFELL PIKES. 8l 
 
 Wastwater, and 4m. W. of Kavenglass and Drigg station, 
 S. PauVs Church has good glass by Wailes and Gibbs, and 
 carved work. The tourist now crosses the Broughton and 
 Gosforth road over Santon Bridge, 2Jm. from Wastwater 
 and 3Jm. from Drigg station, and proceeds through Nether 
 Wastdale to Strands (8m. ), meaning, like the Strand in 
 London, abutting on water, where there are two inns, [by 
 the direct road to Crook at the foot of Wastwater the dis- 
 tance from Santon Bridge i3 7m.] From Strands, Buck- 
 barrow Pike, Middle Fell, Ye wb arrow, Great Gable, Kirk 
 Fell, Scawfell Pikes and Fell, and the Screes are seen. 
 Nether Wastdale Hall (J. Ptawson), 7m. from Drigg or 
 Ravenglass, stands among grounds containing the finest 
 araucariae of Norfolk-island, coniferae, pines, and weeping 
 Deodar of Nepaul in the kingdom. 
 
 Stkaxds to Scawfell Pikes. — The tourist having pro- 
 ceeded up the lake by boat, lands at the foot of Lingmell, 
 and makes an ascent of 3m. On the N.W. is Peas 
 Ghyl. This mountain connects the heads of Borrodale, 
 Eskdale, and Wastdale. The three summits — Scawfell 
 Pike, 3160 feet high, the loftiest mountain in England, 
 Lingmell on the south, and Great End on the north, — are di- 
 vided by a deep ravine called the Mickledore, (great door) 
 Jm. broad, from Scawfell, 3100 feet high. The Great 
 Peak is a mossy slate rock without a blade of grass, 
 and marked by a heap of stones which was built up by the 
 Ordnance surveyors. It stands midway between Ulverston 
 and the sea, and between Skiddaw and Black Combe. 
 Brown tufts of moss, soft as cushions of velvet-pile, lie be- 
 tween huge blocks and masses of stone that are covered 
 with lichens unsurpassed in colour by flower, feather, or 
 gems. From the summit, Eskdale, Donnerdale, Duddon 
 Sands, the sea beyond Whitehaven, Styhead, Tarn, the 
 mountains of Windermere, Langdale, Crummock water, 
 and Ennerdale, Great Gable, Seatollar, Pillar, Kirkfell, High 
 St.,Grasmere, Grisedale Pike, Helvellyn, Skiddaw, High Stile 
 over Buttermere, and Blencathra, like the tents of a camp 
 of Titans, are all visible ; some bright in sunshine, some dark 
 with clouds and storms, and often spanned by glorious rain- 
 
82 WASTWATER. 
 
 bows. Solway Firth, Morecambe Bay, and tlie mountains 
 of Wales and Scotland may sometimes be distinguished. 
 The mountain is the subject of some fine lines by Hankin- 
 son : 
 
 " the vast brow 
 
 Looks down his four concentrate vales below : 
 Here Esk smiles coyly through his woody glade, 
 Th^re Wastdale's chaos flings its length of shade ; 
 Next, in bright contrast with that gloomy vale, 
 The life and loveliness of Borrodale ; 
 And last, that wild, and deep, and swampy dell, 
 Where Langdale's summits frown upon Bowfell." 
 
 The ascent may also be made from the Styhead Pass, or 
 from Langdale, where the path on Eskhause unites with that 
 of the pass ; and the descent may be made, with a guide, 
 down Mickledore into Eskdale, (6m.) ; a narrow ridge 
 slopes on the other side into Wastdale. There are precipices, 
 slippery turf, and descents of smooth rock sufficient to give 
 a tinge of romance and adventure to the path. The way to 
 Ambleside lies over the ridge of Eskhause, by Angle Tarn, 
 under Bowfell, and down the gorge of Bosset Ghyl into 
 Langdale, a good hour's walk, and thence to Ambleside ; the 
 descent to Keswick must be made by the Styhead Pass, 
 keeping Great End on the right hand. The distance by 
 this route from Keswick to Ambleside is 30 miles. 
 
 " There is a lake far hid among the hills, 
 That roves around the throne of solitude ; 
 Not fed by gentle streams or playful rills, 
 But headlong cataract and rushing flood, 
 There gleam no lovely hues of hanging wood, 
 No spot of sunshine lights its sullen mood.'' 
 
 Wastwater, 3m. by Jm., 270 feet deep, dark and deso- j 
 late, is the deepest of all the lakes, and therefore never 
 frozen \ 160 feet above the sea, and surrounded by mountain 
 scenery of the wildest grandeur. Seatallan forms the 
 boundary of the N.E. shore, on which are some coppices 
 of hazel. The bare granite Screes, a league in length, 
 are only in parts tufted with moss and fern. The long 
 
WASTDALE HEAD. 83 
 
 craggy slopes are strewn with fragments of shale ; red, 
 blue, white, and green, splintered off by the winter storms, 
 and furrowed in lines as the torrents have left them. They 
 contain red spieular iron ore, used for marking sheep, and 
 sought for in the crevices of the rock by men who are let 
 down by ropes. The masses are said, in falling, frequently to 
 flash like lightning upon the opposite shore. At the S.E. 
 extremity of this lofty terrace-like line, which is broken by 
 needle-shaped peaks, owing to the decomposition of the 
 felspar, lies the ravine called Hawl Ghyl, with its tiny 
 cascades and filmy fern. There is a fine view from the 
 8.W. end of the range. The lake should be examined 
 by taking a boat. A terrible storm, with a shower of large 
 masses of ice, occurred in Wastdale between Swinhope Fell 
 and Laneton Beck, in March 1800. 
 
 ,At Wastdale Head (6m. from Strands, and lm. from 
 the end of the lake) there is a little church but no inn, 
 situated in a level valley of a few acres in extent, and 
 walled in by mountains. The road winds under the cone of 
 Yewbarrow and Buckbarrow Pike along the west shore 
 of the lake ; on the light are the steep sides of Middle Fell, 
 on the left, across the water, are the Screes, and the road 
 Miid falls to avoid the crags, which illustrate the 
 glacial theory of Agassiz. Lodgings may be had at Bitson's 
 farm-house, at the entrance of Mosedale. The tourist may 
 proceed southward on foot between Scawfell and the Screes, 
 and by Burnmoor Tarn to Bout in Eskdale ; northward on 
 foot up Mosedale, (2m.), which lies between Kirk Fell (9m.) 
 and Yewbarrow, (10m.) and over Blacksail Pass, between 
 Kirk Fell on the right and Pillar on the left, into the head 
 of Ennerdale, and thence on a line with Blacksail on the 
 S. and nearly opposite the Pillar, over Scarf Gap, be- 
 tween Haystacks and High Crag, into the head of Butter- 
 mere at Gatesgarth ; south-westward by Strands to Gosforth 
 or Itavenglass by a carnage road ; to Keswick (14m.) on 
 horseback to Seathwaite, and thence in a carriage by 
 lale ; or to Ambleside, (18m.) by Borrodale, Stone- 
 thwaite Green, Eskdale, and Grasmere, or, (16£ni.) over 
 Styhead Pass through Langdale. 
 
 G 2 
 
84 WASTDALE HEAD TO STYHEAD PASS. 
 
 Wastdale Head to Styhead Pass (2m.) — Ponies may 
 be used. The tourist passes from the foot of Wast- 
 water by Gale and Crookhead cottages, opening gradually 
 rural Bowderdale in the direction of Haystacks, and, as he 
 bends round the little bays and over the mimic headlands, 
 obtains fine views of the mountains already noticed. Cross- 
 ing Overbeck bridge (3Jm.) (there is a cascade above it), 
 and continuing his way by Wastwater Head, (4Jm.) and 
 Wastdale Head (6m.), he then mounts by a steep path up 
 the side of Great Gable. The pass, 1250 feet high, is one of 
 the loftiest and steepest in the district. The rugged top of 
 Lingmell Crag forms the wall to the south, and Great 
 Gable on the N.W. Great End towers in front on the 
 S.S.W., Broad Crag is to the right, Glaramara to the 
 east. 
 
 The view over Wastdale, 1000 feet below, is very im- 
 pressive : no wild boars now feed in summer time here, or 
 go down in the autumn for mast and acorns into Boar-dale, 
 (Borro-dale) ; the eagles have forsaken their eyrie on 
 Eagle Crag ; Scawfell can be ascended from the Pass. Sty- 
 head Tarn is a bright little basin under Great End, fed by 
 the rains and a stream from Sprinkling Tarn; it lies on 
 a plain -| a mile in extent, within a natural circle of huge 
 blocks of steep slaty rock, and feeds a waterfall. About 
 300 yards distant on the left is one of the rain gauges 
 placed here by Mr. Miller of Whitehaven. On Great Gable 
 is a Stone Man, (a pile of stones on a hill-top), and near it a 
 triangular-shaped chalice in the rock, never dry, and fed 
 only by the dew and snow, the rain and mist. Garnets are 
 found in the slates on the Wastdale side of the mountain 
 and on Lingmell. 
 
 Wastdale Head to Mosedale. — For pedestrians a guide 
 is advisable. The tourist proceeds by a very rough path up 
 the wild dale between Yewbarrow and Kirkfell, keeping 
 the latter and a stream to the right, and crosses Blacksail 
 Pass, (6m.) between Kirkfell and Pillar, an inaccessible 
 crag 2893 feet high ; skirting the right bank of the Lissa 
 into Gillerthwaite, with its farm-houses and green fields, 
 and Ennerclale Water gleaming beyond at the head of 
 
EAVENGLASS TO S. BEE'S HEAD. 85 
 
 Ennerdale (6m.) Kirkfell and Great Gable close it on 
 one side, and on the other High Stile and Red Pike form 
 the wall ,* still following the Lissa, which flows from Great 
 Gable into Ennerdale, for a short way to a sheepfold, he 
 turns off by a very faintly-marked track through Scarf 
 Gap Pass, between High Crag and Haystacks, to Gatesgarth 
 (12m.) at the head of Buttermere ; to the inn there the 
 distance is (2m.,) to Seatollar (4m.,) to Honister Crag, 
 (1700 feet high) (lm.) 
 
 Sea Coast — Baveitolass to S. Bee's Head. — On 
 leaving Ravenglass sand-hills, 30 to 40 ft. high, bound the 
 shore, and, some 5 or 6 miles further, the shallow, rapid 
 Calder, 20 yards broad, rolls down over a pebbly bed 
 which marks its mountain origin. Criffel Hill, 50m. dis- 
 tant, at the mouth of Solway Firth, is here visible, and 
 J a mile N. of the Calder flows the Ehen, broad and 
 calm, and therefore once frequented by smugglers. It runs 
 for some distance parallel with the sea, between a line of 
 sand-hills and a raised bank of earth covered with coarse 
 reed grass, which once formed the coast line ; the old folks 
 say — "When Ehen meets the Calder, there's an end to 
 the world." 
 
 At Sea Scales the low sand-hills rise to an elevation called 
 Flagstaff Mount, from which there is a view of Wastdale 
 and Scawfell. From Nethertown to Egremont (3m.) the 
 road inland lies through pleasant lanes. Two miles N. 
 of the Ehen sand-hills disappear and give place to lofty and 
 undulating hills, themselves bare, but leaving a corn-bear- 
 ing strip of land between their bases and the sea. Nethertown, 
 a little village of uncouth rough cottages, lies at the foot of 
 a broad sloping hill. From Neiherbown to S. Bee's Head the 
 coast is bounded by a bank like that of Selker Bay, with a 
 rough margin of reedy grass, dotted with sea holly, rag- 
 wort, thrift, and trailing blackberry. 
 
 Eailwat from Deigg to S. Bees. — The railway 
 passes by Drigg (oak land), seated on the Irt, near beau- 
 tiful sands on one side, with a sandy soil on the other, 
 intermingled with clay, and famous for its potatoes. Upon 
 the shore is a huge boulder of syenite, called Carl Crag, 
 
 G 3 
 
86 s. bee's head. 
 
 12 by 9 and 5| feet high, which the folks say the fiend let 
 slip, being interrupted when building a bridge to the Isle 
 of Man. There is a chalybeate spring. The Irt abounds 
 in trout, and is frequented by salmon. The church of 
 Drigg is dedicated to S.Peter. According to tradition, 
 the men of Drigg were married by the Danes to the women 
 of Beckermot (the meeting of the becks), whose husbands 
 had been slain in battle, and thus peopled Barna's Scar. 
 The remains are now but piles of stones, scattered along the 
 side of the lake, and on the hills above the north shore. 
 In 1813 Greenough and Dr. Buckland here discovered 
 three tubes, ljm. in diameter, smooth and like glass inside, 
 and of 30 feet in length, in the sand-drifted hillocks. They 
 were of sand vitrified by electricity. Hotel, Scawfell, 2m. 
 from Sellafield, 4Jm. from Egremont, 3m. from Calder 
 Bridge, 12 Jm. from Whitehaven, and 8m. from Wastwater. 
 The sands are good and smooth. Letters arrive at 11*45 
 a.m., and are despatched at 1-15 p.m. The succeeding 
 stations are Seascales, a small bathing place, the site of a 
 Druidical Circle ; Gosforth, where there is a very ancient 
 shaft of a cross in the churchyard \ Sellajield, Bray stone, 
 Nethertoimi, and S. Bee's. 
 
 S. Bee's Head is ^m. W. of the Priory Church. — The 
 south end of the western face of this huge hill, 800 feet 
 high, slopes steeply down until it terminates in a precipice 
 ranging from 150 to 200 feet in height, and projecting like 
 an enormous semicircular bastion ; its length is 2m., and 
 it is composed of red sandstone in broad horizontal strata, 
 intersected by layers of white sandstone, which are seamed 
 by vertical fissures often undermined by the sea. In stormy 
 weather the ocean rolls and welters here in broad sheets of 
 awful whiteness, sweeping over the ledges below in cas- 
 cades of spray with the roar of thunder, and then sinking 
 back from the wave-worn buttresses, jagged, torn, and 
 splintered by its violence, again sweeps in, leaping up and 
 booming in the deep dark caves and gaping chasms. It is 
 a solemn sight to witness the gathering blackness of the 
 billows, the lightning flash of the foam, and hear the wild 
 crashing music of the great deep in its terrible beauty, as 
 
s. bee's head. 87 
 
 it hurls wave after wave, fruitlessly vexing itself and 
 bursting around the unplumbed base of the headland, which 
 looks down with its gigantic brow immoveable and un- 
 harmed by the eddying and rushing wind, like a stem hate 
 unmoved by the sight of misery, or Power gazing on 
 impotent malice. How great the change on a calm summer 
 evening, towards the close of day, to see the old giant lying 
 calm, silent, and serene, clothing himself over with hues like 
 the dolphin's ; here dappled brown and purple, there in 
 spots black like a pall, when the whole sky shines like 
 a turquoise, and is speckled with rosy cloudlets fringed 
 with gold, beneath which the glowing waves spread like 
 an expanse of living orange fire, as the sinking sun rests 
 upon their face. The promontory, a narrow hilly tract 
 running northward to Whitehaven, once formed Preston 
 Island, but is now connected with the mainland only by 
 a narrow green valley, once filled by the waters from the 
 inland, like the mere near Portland. At Whitehaven and 
 near S. Bee's the surface is level, with a soil of sand and 
 shingle, and an anchor has been found in it. Bound the 
 base of the Head lie vast blocks, a stupendous pile ot 
 ruins \ the beach produces beautiful pebbles, and a per- 
 pendicular ravine severs the cliff from the summit to the 
 base. The Cloven Barf is a rude enormous column 
 detached from the rock, 12 feet wide and 16 feet deep. On 
 the north side is a lighthouse. The Head juts out a mile 
 beyond the coast line. On the north side a steep descent 
 leads down to a lower ridge. To the north are wavy 
 rounded hills, covered with corn fields, and containing 
 inexhaustible mines of coal, and beds of limestone and 
 building stone, terminating along the shore in a range of 
 low cliffs of white sandstone with thin layers of slaty 
 stone and veins of coals, with huge fragments strewn at 
 their feet. 
 
 S. Bee's (railway station ; (Hotels, Sea Coke, S. Bee's,) 
 familiar to the readers of "Ivanhoe" for the outrage offered 
 to its Abbot, who was compelled by James Douglas, in 
 1315, to sing mass from a hollow oak tree,) has a bridge 
 built 1585, by Archbishop Grindal, who was born at 
 g 4 
 
88 s. bee's. 
 
 Hensingham, and a Priory Church. (See WalcoWs Min- 
 sters and Abbeys of the United Kingdom.) The lighthouse was 
 built on the cliff to the west in 1822. The coach road 
 from Eavenglass to Whitehaven (12m.) passes near 
 Drigg; and Gosforth (5m.) pop. 1116; 6m. south-east of 
 Egremont, 5m. from Wastwater, 3m. from Sea Scales, 39m. 
 from Kendal, 16m. from Broughton. S. Mary's Church, 
 rebuilt 1789, retains its Norman chancel-arch and nave, 
 and a four-hold cross, 14 feet high and 14 feet in diameter, 
 standing on three steps, and incised with beautiful ara- 
 besques and curious sculptures of men and animals in 
 inverted positions. The old Hall at Gosforth is now a 
 farm-house. Strands is 4m. from Gosforth. (See 
 Broughton and Ambleside routes.) Sea Scales: Ponsonby 
 Hall (J. E. Stanley), is lm. from Colder Bridge, (4m. 
 Stanley Arms and Golden Fleece.) The hall, built 1780, 
 on a hill commanding views of the Welsh mountains and 
 Calder Abbey, contains a bed dated 1345, portraits of 
 Chaucer, of Henry VIII., and H. Boleyn, by Holbein, (on 
 copper) of Ben Jonson, Latimer, and Cranmer ; and family 
 pictures by Opie and B-omney. S. Mary's Church has an 
 oak roof, the brass of E. Patrickson, 1578, and a spire 
 and tower built 1840. The old hall is Jm. distant. 
 About lm. from the quiet village, on the wooded banks 
 of the rapid Calder, here affording trout and salmon, are 
 the ruins of S. Mary's Calder Abbey, standing among 
 limes and noble trees on a mossy lawn. (See WalcoWs 
 Minsters and Abbey Ruins of the United Kingdom.) In the 
 neighbourhood are Hale, 2^m. from Calder Bridge, with 
 an old hall, retaining its ancient fire-place ; Infell Hill, 
 with vestiges of a Roman camp ; Sella Park, once a 
 grange of Calder Abbey, Jm. S.W., near S. Bridget's, 
 Beckermot, standing in a cold and barren tract, and 
 retaining in the garth two carved stone pillars, one 5 ft. 8 
 in. high. Wotobank (J. Hartley), derives its name 
 from the sorrows of the Lord of Beckermot, (described in 
 Mrs. Cowley's "Edwina") who, while chasing wolves in 
 Copeland Forest, was separated from his wife ; after a long 
 search he discovered her lying dead and torn in the fangs 
 
WHITEHAVEN— ITS POSITION. 89 
 
 of a wolf upon this ridge, and cried, as lie slew the beast, 
 "Woe to this bank! " S. John's Church, Kirkbeck, built 
 1810, retains a portion of an ancient cross and an incised 
 slab. 
 
 WHITEHAVEN. 
 
 COAST RAILWAY. 
 
 S. Bee's to Whitehaven. — The Corkickle station is 
 passed before reaching Whitehaven, 7m. S. of Working- 
 ton, 12m. S.W. of Maryport, 15m. S.E. of Cocker- 
 mouth, 40m. S.W. of Carlisle. The cliffs here rise 
 to some height, with white alternating with red sand- 
 stone, and intersected by shale and coal layers, stained 
 and fissured. Whitehaven, to the tourist, on approaching 
 from the cliffs, appears quite unexpectedly, as it lies in a 
 deep valley, which opens into a fine harbour crowded with 
 shipping, and bounded on two sides by large green hills, 
 that, rising abruptly from the streets, give an extra- 
 ordinary appearance to the town. The adjoining country 
 is partly an elevated plain and partly undulating. The 
 town presents collieries, tall chimneys, mean streets, shabby 
 cottages, houses of the red sandstone of S. Bee's, and the 
 castellated mansion of the Earl of Lonsdale, the harbour 
 and its shipping an ever-moving picture, while over all 
 rises a dense cloud of smoke. There is a fine view from 
 Moncarrow Hill, on the left of the port, of the winding 
 shore of Cumberland to Solway Firth, and a long extent of 
 the south coast of Scotland, and with majestic hills 
 towering in good outlines ; the three lighthouses, the 
 seven stone piers built round the hill-bound inlet. The 
 spacious and secure harbour is defended by stone piers 
 with a breakwater; three quays project into the basin. 
 The N. pier, 1800 by 74 feet, is paved and faced with 
 white stone. The new west pier, extending 1350 feet from 
 the west pier, 450 feet, was built by Sir J. Kennie, 1824-39, 
 at a cost of 100,000/. ; the bend at the head, 66 feet 
 
90 WHITEHAVEN ITS RISE AND PROGRESS. 
 
 broad ; on which the lighthouse, built 1821, stands, cost 
 30,000Z., and affords a delightful walk. The Old Quay 
 was lengthened 1767, the North Wall was built 1770-84, the 
 Bulwark Harbour rebuilt and the North Quay improved 
 1792-1809. The New North Pier, with a lighthouse, was 
 added 1841. A lifeboat was established here in 1803. The 
 custom-house was built 1811, the marine school in 1816. 
 The patent slip at East Strand was erected by Lord 
 Lonsdale. Lime is shipped here for Scotland, and iron ore 
 from Arlecdon and Cleator to the Welsh furnaces. Ship- 
 building is carried on on a large scale. 
 
 Whitehaven (White toft haven) so called from its white 
 rocks, is unnoticed by Camden, and owes its importance to 
 the energy of the Lowthers. The two headlands are still 
 called by the miners Tom Hurd Rock and Jack a Dandy 
 Hill. The Bee, of Whitehaven, a pickard of 10 tons, was 
 in 1582 the largest vessel in the county. Sir John 
 Lowther, in the time of Charles II., c. 1664, raised a 
 village, containing nine thatched cottages, into a town, 
 which in 1693 numbered 2222 inhabitants ; and he built 
 a pier 1687. On Thursday, April 23, 1778, Paul Jones, who 
 had sailed from the port as a cabin boy, landed here from 
 the privateer Ranger, 24, spiked the guns of the battery, 
 and set fire to three vessels, in the hope that the flames 
 would extend to the 200 vessels then lying in the harbour. 
 The port is still without proper defences. 
 
 The ships, in 1856, numbered 177, of 27,757 tons, and 
 employing 1455 men. From 90,000 to 100,000 waggon- 
 loads, each of 2j tons of coal, are exported yearly to 
 Ireland. The Cleator and Egremont Railway was opened 
 on July 1, 1857. Letters arrive 9*15 a.m. and 9-30 p.m., 
 and are despatched 4*25 p.m. and 6-40 a.m. Whitehaven 
 Castle (Earl of Lonsdale, KG-., F.S.A.), is a large square 
 building S.E. of the town. It contains two Roman 
 altars, one found at Moresby, dedicated by the 20th 
 legion, and the other, of reddish grit, discovered at 
 Ellenborough before 1559. Here also are the Marriage of 
 Cana (Tintoretto), Hero and Leander (Guido), groups of 
 animals (Snyders), and several family portraits. S. 
 
WHITEHAVEN COAL MINES. 91 
 
 Nicholas' Chapel, consecrated . July 16, 1693, contains an 
 organ by Snetzler, built 1756, and altar piece, the Last 
 Supper, by M. Eeed. Holy Trinity Church, built 1715, 
 contains "The Ascension," by the same artist. S. John's 
 Chapel was consecrated Jan. 8, 1752, and Christ Church 
 in 1847. 
 
 The coal mines are of considerable interest, as to the 
 abundance of the mineral the seaports on this coast owe 
 their rise, growth, and present importance. The coals at 
 Whitehaven are brought along a railway in waggons each 
 conveying 45 cwt., to the South Pier, and descending the 
 East Hill on traverses, the velocity being regulated by one 
 man, whose business it is to apply a wooden brake to the 
 wheels. On reaching the lading place a moveable trap is 
 opened, and the freight is discharged from the elevated 
 stage into the barges or vessels. The West Hill is pro- 
 vided with an inclined plane, on which three machines 
 (hurries) being laden, draw up as many empty waggons ; 
 terminating at a storehouse built on brick arches and a 
 long wooden gallery, from which the coals are launched. 
 The chief mine, extending over 500 acres, bears the name 
 cf W.Pitt. 
 
 Some of the mines extend like underground streets two 
 miles under the sea and cliffs, and are from 50 to 150 
 fathoms deep. On the East Hill the coal is drawn up in 
 baskets carrying 13 cwt., up a shaft or bearmouth, divided 
 into three parts, one for the ejection of water, the second 
 for the operation of an engine, and the third for the 
 descent of the basket. On the word being given, 
 " Coming down," the visitor enters the basket, grasps the 
 loudly clanking chain, and glides smoothly down through 
 the eye (the shaft), 6 feet in diameter, and 630 feet deep, 
 which is boarded round. The aperture above appears to 
 diminish and contract till all is pitchy darkness, here and 
 there relieved by dim lights, which reveal obscure figures, 
 square boards through long passages faced with brick, and 
 having arched roofs, and horses dragging low-wheeled 
 trams. The heat is oppressive, the dust annoying, and 
 the silence profound, except when broken by explosions. 
 
92 EGREMONT. 
 
 Excursions prom Whitehaven. — S. Catherine's 
 Chapel bell hung for years on an oak tree on a hill on the 
 north side, a custom not uncommon in Scotland ; the 
 armorial bearings of Glasgow still show the Cathedral bell 
 suspended in a tree. There is some old stained glass, and 
 a holy well adjoins the chapel of S. Catherine. Arch- 
 bishop Grindal was born, 1519, at Hensingham, lm. N.E. of 
 Whitehaven. Near Frisington, in the parish of Arlecdon, 
 6m. N.E., there is an ancient cross, 3J feet high, in the Cross 
 Lane. The Roman road from Egremont to Cockermouth 
 ran through Frisington ; it was 18 feet wide, and formed of 
 cobbles and freestone. The railway to Frisington passes 
 through Moor Row Junction and Cleator Moor. 
 
 Whitehaven to Cockermouth. — The road from White- 
 haven to Cockermouth passes through Distington, (4m.) 
 [at Lilly Hall a branch to the N.W. leads to Work- 
 ington], through Winscales (6m.) and Little Clifton 
 (9m.) [a branch road to Workington (3|in.) is on the left 
 hand], and then follows the course of the Derwent to 
 Cockermouth, (13 Jm.) 
 
 EGREMONT. 
 
 Whitehaven to Egremont, by Moor Row Junction 
 and Woodend ; fares, Is. and 6d. 
 
 Egremont, (pop. 2049,) with its piazzas and long street, 
 has a certain picturesqueness (2jm. S.E. of S. Bees and 
 6m. S.E. of Whitehaven). The Castle of the " Mount 
 of Sorrow " stands on a grassy eminence above the Ehen, 
 which runs briskly below it ; the Gatehouse, which retains 
 ten courses of herring-bone work, was built at the close of 
 the 11th century by W. de Meschines : the cm-tain wall, 
 a square tower, and part of the moat remain. An ancient 
 road ran through the town to Cockermouth, by Tarnhead, 
 Cleator, and Lamplugh. A curious tradition, that of the 
 Horn of Egremont, on which none but the rightful owner 
 could blow a blast, is attached to the castle. The Baron of 
 
EXCURSIONS FROM EGREMONT. 93 
 
 Egremont, Sir Eustace Lucie, going as a crusader to the 
 Holy Land, left his young wife and castle to the care of his 
 younger brother, Sir Hubert : years passed away while he 
 lay a prisoner among the pagans, and refused the love of an 
 Emir's daughter, by whose orders he was hanged up by the 
 hair to a beam, and left to perish. The lady, however, 
 relented, and catching up a knife, severed half his hair, 
 scalping him by accident in the operation. The knight tore 
 himself loose with the remainder of his long locks, and 
 after hairbreadth escapes arrived at noon before his castle 
 gate; holding the hatterel of hair, he wound his horn, which 
 none but the rightful heir could blow, loud and long, start- 
 ling with the well known sound his guilty brother, who 
 had hoped that he had been dead long since, and now 
 thought he looked upon his ghost. The good-hearted baron 
 pardoned the wicked brother, who changed his name to 
 Boyville of Millom Castle. 
 
 Exclusions may be made from Egremont to Wastivater, 
 through Gosforth, (6m.) and to Ennerdale (the dale of Einar 
 the Dane) Water, through Hensingham and Cleator, (3m. 
 from S. Bees and 2m. from Egremont) : it derives its 
 name from the rivulet Kekell, and is noticeable for its 
 church of S. Leonard, blast furnaces, and hematite iron 
 works ; under Coat Close, 1115 ft. high, and by Ennerdale 
 Bridge over the Ehen, which flows from the lake, being 
 known as the Lissa on entering it. The little chapel and 
 churchyard are celebrated in Wordsworth's u Brothers. " 
 The foot of the lake is lm. beyond ; the first two miles 
 are picturesque, and there is a good view from a hill over 
 Bowness, but the scenery soon after becomes dreary and 
 desolate. The road, which lies along the east shore, ends at 
 Gillerthwaite, a farm-house ljm. from the head of the 
 lake. The pedestrian can follow a path to the end of the 
 dale, (4m. further), which is closed by Great Gable, 
 2925 ft, and Pillar, 2893 ft., and pass into Gatescarth 
 (Buttermere Dale) (3m.) by Scarf Gap Pass on the left, 
 or by Blacksail higher up on the right into Mosedale and 
 Wastdale, (3m.). (See Keswick Eoutes).] 
 
 From Ennerdale Bridge the tourist may cross the Fells 
 
94 WHITEHAVEN — SEA-COAST. 
 
 by Crosdale to Loivesivater, descending the side of Blake 
 Fell, when Whiteside and Grassmoor and Lanthwaite 
 Wood lie before him. The Anglers' Inn is 2m. 
 from Ennerdale Bridge, and 4m. from Gillerthwaite. 
 At Bowness he can cross the Fells to the north, skirting 
 Floutern Tam, and then descend into Buttermere Dale, 
 (6m. ), between Mellbreak and Blea Crag. If he wishes 
 to reach Scale Hill he must follow the stream that flows 
 from the Tam, by a road on the N.E. bank. If he 
 tracks a stream flowing from Herdhause to Bowness, he 
 must, to reach Buttermere, keep between the Tarn and a 
 rocky mound, and keep to the left of the latter, to go to 
 Loweswater, and then descend along the bank of a little 
 stream. 
 
 WHITEHAVEN, continued, 
 
 EXCURSIONS. 
 
 The road from Whitehaven to Kendal leads through 
 Eskdale. In the last century red deer here bounded along 
 the rocky sides of Scawfell Pike, and one, so lately as 1792, 
 was chased into Wastwater and drowned. On the stone 
 near Buck Crag are the impressions of the foot of a man, a 
 boy, and a dog $ the print of a heifer's foot, on a hill-side, is 
 shown by the guides of Borrodale to Loweswater. 
 
 Excursions from Whitehaven may be made to Loives- 
 water (12m.) through Arlecdon (the town on the rock) 
 and Lamplugh (Wet Dale). Near Stock Head are remains 
 of a Druidical circle, 16 large stones of blue cobble, and a 
 mineral spring. 
 
 SEA COAST. WHITEHAVEN TO BOWNESS. 
 
 A rocky headland separates, from Whitehaven, the village 
 and pretty bay of Parton (ljm. N.). A crescent-shaped 
 inlet, with masses of rocks for headlands, and the village 
 in the centre, hemmed in by a smooth green hill with 
 a wood at its base, while a little fleet of herring boats 
 cover the water. Near Moresby is a Roman earthwork, and 
 the mountains recede. Harrington has a good harbour, 
 
, SEA-COAST WHITEHAVEN TO BOWXI- 95 
 
 defended by a stone pier and two wooden jetties, and a 
 lighthouse at Bella-port. The country consists of round 
 and wavy smooth hills devoid of trees, and the coast becomes 
 bold and nigged, but the cliffs are succeeded by a green 
 shelving bank, fringed with a strip of flat land ; near Har- 
 rington it rises to 50-60 ft. in height, and presents a smooth 
 front. Chapel Holm (Hm. N.) is a steep hill, with a 
 beacon. Xear some coal pits the estuary of the Derwent 
 forms a secure harbour, surrounded by a dreary waste, the 
 river winds over a pebbly bed through a wooded dale, the 
 long and straggling town of Workington stands in a valley 
 
 -n two high banks, which apparently at one time 
 formed the bed of a considerable stream. The shore now 
 for a few miles forward consists of beds of shingles and 
 pebbles, with a fringe of sea bent and heath, and'rlanked by 
 a high bank, half a mile from the water's edge. The scenery 
 is tame and common-place inland, the plain i3 less elevated 
 and divided with hedgerows, and no longer presents broad 
 bare hills. The flat shore extends to Maryport on the 
 Ellen, where a spur of the hills juts into the sea : on the 
 south is the lofty Castle Hill, and on the north a Roman 
 camp. About 1m. northward the bank terminates at 
 the beginning of a semicircular bay bordered by a level and 
 cultivated country, when the white houses of AUonhy appear 
 backed by the hills of Galloway. Inland, the country 
 droops in height, but rises in gentle undulations and shows 
 the front of Skiddaw. A dreary naked country extends to 
 Skinhurn Ness, interrupted towards the sea by tracts of 
 sands and moors, (the ancient village was destroyed by the 
 sea at the close of the 13th century ); sand-hills occur in groups 
 and are boimd together by the sea weed and bent ; the view 
 of the Solway Firth and a range of bold spire-like hills reliev- 
 ing the monotony of the shore. Sands, 3m. broad, extend 
 
 idonnock ; at the extremity of the peninsula which 
 separates them from the main branch of the bay, two rivers, 
 the Waver and Wampool, cross the strand. A desolate 
 peat moss, containing oak, birch, and fir, lies between 
 Solway Firth and Wampool ; at Cardonnock it is broken by 
 a small fertile tract, and om, X.E. is Bawness, seated on a 
 
9 6 BUEGH-ON-THE-SANDS. 
 
 gentle rise of ground on the shore of the SolwayFirth, which 
 at times is fordable here. To the east of Bowness extends 
 Burgh Marsh, covered with grazing herds, a flat tract, 5 by 
 l^m. of short grass. On Solway Moss the Scots were 
 signally routed in the reign of Henry VIII. The Solway 
 derives its name from the tribe of Selgovse. 
 
 Beegh-o^-the-sands, (G-abrosentum) 5£m. N.W. of 
 Carlisle, 9m. N.E. of Wigton, 7|m. S.E. of Bowness. 
 S. Michael's Church, rebuilt in the 13th century, has 
 some late Norman portions, and a strong fortified tower, 
 before the time of King Edward I., who died here July 7, 
 1306. The church and yard are within the ancient 
 camp, and red-sandstone blocks, urns, and jars are 
 constantly dug up. The priests' house, an unusual ad- 
 dition, is attached to the east end of the choir. Near 
 Burgh is the site of the castle of Sir Hugh de Morville, 
 one of the murderers of Thomas a Becket ; it is called 
 Hangman 1 s Tree, because the manor gallows was erected 
 here. Spill Blood Holm is another ominous locality. A 
 monument still marks the place of King Edward Ill's, death 
 on the sands ; and on the opposite side of the Firth is the 
 Tozver of Repentance. A laird of Ecclefechan, returning from 
 a raid, was crossing the Solway with his prisoners and 
 booty when a storm arose, and, to save his boat, he threw 
 overboard his captives in preference to the stolen wine. 
 In his remorse he built this beacon, toiling up with every 
 stone that was used to the top of the hill, single-handed. 
 Many boulder stones of great size, granite from the summit 
 of Criffel, lie about the village. No traces of the Roman 
 Wall are observable beyond Dykesfield, although it skirted 
 the southern margin of the marsh. 
 
 k Deembeegh was the Axelodimum garrisoned by the 
 First Spanish Cohort ; the well, ramparts, and fosse of the 
 camp remain. The farm-house is a pele castle. There is a 
 subterraneous oak forest about Jm. N.E. of Glasson, 
 and extending into Kirklands, which had fallen when 
 the Romans built their wall. At Port Carlisle are two 
 mounds, Fisher's Cross and Knock Cross Q-m. W.), a 
 type of antiquity to the Cumbrian, who uses the proverb 
 
WHITEHAVEN TO WORKINGTON. 97 
 
 "as old as Knock' } s Cross." One of the altars of the Deae 
 Matres is built up in front of the Steam-Packet Inn, Carlisle. 
 The site of the wall may be traced between Port Carlisle 
 and Bowness, a low bow-shaped peninsula on the left bank 
 of Solway Firth, and probably the Roman Gabrosen- 
 tum. There is an altar to Jupiter in front of a barn in the 
 main street. 
 
 The Firth and sea are here most beautiful when seen in 
 the burning* glory of a summer sunset, with the mountains 
 of Scotland beyond. The air is fresh, the wind blythe and 
 cheerful, the blue sky is mottled over with amber curls of 
 cloud, here and there touched with crimson and rose, and 
 the tide rushes up the Firth, racing* merrily in, washing the 
 dark rocks with its snowy foam, pouring over the low reefs, 
 here scattered by the breeze, there leaping up in thin 
 green spray till the waters redden and the golden sun 
 burns like an orb of living fire, where it touches their 
 outer rirn, and hue after hue melts away, as daylight dies 
 along the sea, and all is turned to monotonous grey. 
 
 Whitehaven to Woekington by railway. — The line, 
 skirting the foot of new red sandstone cliffs, passes through 
 Parton station, and crossing the Lowca Beck, Harring- 
 ton station (Haverington,) a port at the mouth of the 
 Wyre, with a picturesquely situated church, 2^-m. S. of 
 Workington, and 5m. N. of Whitehaven. The first quay 
 was built by H. Curwen. Lime is exported to Scot- 
 land and coals to Ireland. Distington is 2m. distant. The 
 train then crosses the Derwent and reaches Workington. 
 
 Whitehaven to Woeeington. — The road passes through 
 Moresby j 2m. There was a Roman station called Mor- 
 beia in Croft's Field, consisting of a square camp of 400 
 feet on each side, on a height overlooking several creeks ; 
 its garrison was furnished by the 20th legion, and the co- 
 horts of auxiliaries, Thracians, Lingones, and others. S. 
 Bridget's Church, built 1822, stands in the enclosure of 
 this camp : a Roman sculptured stone lies under the chan- 
 cel arch. The road continues through Distington, (4m.), 
 near the ruins of Hayes Castle, Winscales, (6m.), to Work- 
 ington, (8m.), a corruption of Wyrekinton, (pop. 6,380 $ 
 
98 WORKINGTON — COCKERMOUTH. 
 
 Bailway station ; Green Dragon, Crown,) 5m. S.W. of 
 Maryport, 7m. N.E. of Whitehaven ; 8m. S.W. of Cock- 
 ermouth. The safe and commodious harbour has 15- 
 18 feet water at spring-tides, and 8-10 feet at the neap. 
 The little town possessed 1 ship of 16 tons in 1566. The 
 imports are now timber and bar iron j the export, coal to 
 Ireland ; the manufactures, sailcloth and cordage. The 
 hematite iron-works were established in 1857. The bridge 
 over the Derwent was built by Nelson of Carlisle. S. 
 Michael' 8 Church, erected 1770, contains an altar tomb with 
 effigies of a knight (Curwen, d. 1440,) and a lady, some 
 carved wood-work, and a fragment of an octagonal stone 
 font. S. John's, built 1823, cost 10,000/. Workington Hall, 
 (H. Curwen,) built by Carr of York, and standing on a 
 wooded hill, retains some portions of a castle fortified by 
 Sir G-. de Curwen in 1379. Mary Queen of Scots landed 
 here from a fishing-boat after the battle of Langside, on 
 May 16, 1568, and was a guest in the hall till she was 
 removed to Carlisle. The chantry of How Michael is lm. 
 N. There is an extensive salmon fishery. The sea 
 is deep blue, the beach dull, flat, and stony, with low sand- 
 hills to the south : the Derwent and Cocker here enter the 
 sea. The town abounds in shipyards, staithes, wharves, 
 and iron works ; but views are obtained of Skiddaw, Scaw- 
 fell, and Helvellyn, the varied coast of Kirkcudbright, the 
 broad Sol way, and the hills of Galloway rising gradually to 
 their extreme height at Criffel.. 
 
 COCKERMOUTH. 
 
 Eailway to Whitehaven, Maryport, and Cocker- 
 mouth (15 Jm.). The train passes through the stations 
 of Parton, (l^m.), Harrington, (4im.), Workington, (7m.), 
 Cockermouth, (7^m.), and thence to Flimby, (ll^m.), 
 and Maryport, (12m.). Cockermouth stands at the mouth 
 of the Cocker and the Derwent, along the banks of which 
 a walk a mile long reaches from some wooded cliffs to 
 the castle. The bridge over the Derwent is 270 feet long. 
 
COCKERMOUTH. 90 
 
 The town is 10m. from Buttermere, 7m. S.E. of Mary- 
 port, 15£m.N.E. of Whitehaven, 27m. S.W. of Carlisle. Pop. 
 5774. Globe, Sun. All Saints' Church was built in 1850. 
 The Market House was built 1837. The railway was 
 opened to Workington in 1847. The ruins of the castle, 
 belonging to General Wyndham, stand on a hill above the 
 east bank of the Cocker ; it was garrisoned by the Cavaliers 
 in 1648, but being taken by the rebels, was dismantled. 
 Waldieve, Lord of Allermouth, a Norman, built the keep. 
 The gateway tower bears the arms of the Percys and 
 Nevilles, Lucys, Umphravilles, and Multons. Under the 
 ivied tower is a groined vaulted room 30 feet square. Port 
 Hill, (the look-out hill) is on the north of the town ; at 
 Fitt's Wood, lm. W., there are remains of a rampart and 
 ditch 750 feet in circuit. Isell Hall, (Sir W. Lawson,) is 
 3Jm. N.E. Pap Castle, (ljm. N.W.) was the site of a Eo- 
 man camp ; Cockermouth Castle was built from the ruins 
 of this station. A. Hall, editor of Leland, Trivet, and 
 Magna Brittanica, in 1619, Sir J. Williamson, Secretary 
 of State in the time of Charles II., and Tickell, the poet, 
 were born at Bridekirh, 2m. N., where S. Bridget's Church 
 contains a very early font with a Bunic inscription. 
 Wordsworth was bom, April 7, 1770, in a large house on the 
 left-hand side of the Workington road. In the neighbour- 
 hood are Isell Hall, (Sir W. Lawson) 3£m. N.E., and 
 the ancient Tallentire Hall, (W. Browne,) 3Jm. N. Kes- 
 wick, by Whinlatter, is 12m. distant from Cockermouth ; 
 by Bassenthwaite water, 13Jm. One road passes through 
 Mere End, (2m.), (at Armside, 3m., there is a road 
 by Lorton and S. Cuthbert's Church and Scale Hill to 
 Crummock water and Loweswater) by Braithwaite, (8m.), 
 and Portinscale: the second proceeds to Close, (3m.), 
 where one branch passes through Smithy Green and Wood 
 End, along the west side of Bassenthwaite water; the 
 other branch follows the east shore at some distance, 
 through Ouse Bridge, (4m.), Armathwaite, (6m.), (where 
 the road to Penrith, (20m.), through Hesketh Newmarket, 
 (12m.), diverges,) and passes southward by Chapel, Stack- 
 house, (8m.), Mire House, Little Crossthwaite, Lessick 
 
 H 2 
 
100 EOUTES. 
 
 Hall ; (10m.); and Crossthwaite to Keswick. (For another 
 route; see Keswick routes). 
 
 CoCKEEMOTTTH TO MAEYPOET BY EAILWAY AND RoAD. — 
 
 From Cockermouth the road to Maryport passes near Pap 
 Castle; Dovenby Hall; (2m.); and Ellenborough : the 
 road to Wigton [at the 4 mile stone throwing* off a branch 
 to Aspatria through Plumbland;] passes through Bothel, 
 [botle, a dwelling;] (6m.). All Hallows; (8m.); Waver- 
 bank; (lm.); Brough Hill, (lljm.), and near Old Carlisle. 
 Near All Hallows is Bolton Church, said to have been built 
 by the spells and unearthly workmen of Michael Scott. 
 
 WoEEXN T GTOisr to Caelisle by railway. — The line passes 
 through Flimby, (3m.); a small bathing place; and skirting 
 thesea ; reaches MaeypoeT; (5in.), on the Ellen; (pop. 5698; 
 Golden Lion;) 7m. N. W. by road from Cockermouth, 
 8m. from Aspatria, and 16^m. from Wigton. The ex- 
 ports are coals to Ireland ; timber is imported; and there 
 is a considerable herring fishery. A steamer leaves for 
 Liverpool, Wednesdays and Fridays. S. Mary's Church, 
 built 1760; was restored 1845. The AthenaBum was built 
 1857. There is a wooden pier 800 feet long; with a light- 
 house. The Floating Dock was opened Oct. 1857, and 
 comprises 4 acres, with 18 feet of water at spring tides and 
 12 feet at neap. There are remains of a large station on 
 the cliffs ; the east side, being the only one not defended by 
 a natural defile, is protected by a double fosse. In 1766, 
 on the exterior of the station the workmen found the arch 
 of the gate had been broken down, and traces in the great 
 street of houses having been once burned and rebuilt after 
 raids of the Picts and northern savages. Ellenborough, (lm. 
 E.,) gave the title of baron to Chief Justice Law in 1802. 
 There is a square Roman camp here. Letters arrive at 
 Maryport at 9*25 a.m. and 8-35 p.m., and are dispatched 
 4-15 and 7*20 p.m. 
 
 Caldbeck, (8m. S.E. of Wigton, lm. from Hesketh New- 
 market, 16m. from Penrith,) has a church dedicated to 
 S. Kentigern. The" Howk in the neighbourhood is a 
 romantic glen near the Calder, crossed by a natural bridge 
 of rock, under which the stream flows, forming cascades 
 
CALDBECK OLD CARLISLE. 101 
 
 and hollows which bear the name of Fairies' Kirk and 
 Kettles. At Halt Close the river takes a subterranean 
 course for four miles, and then emerges at Spout's Dub. 
 The line is now continued over the Ellen, through Dearham, 
 (7Jm.), where the church contains a Norman font, and 
 Nether Hall, (J. P. Senhouse,) is on the left side; and 
 through Bullgill, (9±m.). Allonby is 2m. distant. The 
 railway crosses the road from Allonby to Cockermouth, (7m. 
 distant,) and passes through ArMehy St., (11 Jm.), by the 
 vale of the Ellen to Aspatria, (12jm.) ? 8m. S.W. of 
 Wig-ton, 8m. N. E. of Maryport, 9m. N. of Cock- 
 ermouth, 19m. S.W. of Carlisle. S. Kentigern's Church, 
 built 1840-8, retains a square Norman font and chancel 
 arch. Sir William Musgrave was born here. Brayton 
 Hall, (Sir W. Lawson,) is ljm. N.E. At Hayton, 
 2m. W., is part of a castle now used as a farm-house. 
 The next station is Brayton, (14fm.,) from which All 
 Hallows is 3m. distant, and 7m. S.W. of Wigton. 
 Whitehall, now a barn, was built 1589, and Harly 
 Brown, occupied by a farmer, retains a tower 60 feet 
 high and 30 feet square. Leegate (17jm.) is the next 
 station, from which Bromfield is ljm. distant on the 
 left, and Townhow, with S. Michael's, a Norman church, 
 3Jm. Wigton, (Holy town,) (21^m.,) is then reached ) 
 15m. N.E. of Cockermouth, 11m. S.W. of Carlisle, 
 16m. N.E. of Maryport, and 21m. N. W. of Penrith. The town 
 is situated on the Wampool, and has a population of 
 4224. The church is dedicated to S. Mary. P. Smirke, 
 G. Baines, the mathematician, and J. Pooke, the geologist, 
 were born here. There is an omnibus from the train to 
 the King's Arms. The road to Carlisle lies through a 
 level country ; that towards Workington undulates. Par- 
 ton Hall (2Jm. N.E.) has two wings of the 15th century. 
 
 Old Carlisle, (2m. S. of Wigton,) the quarter of the 
 Augustan cavalry, is a large Poman station, with the four 
 gateways, ramparts, and inner buildings well defined. The 
 rivulet Wissa runs on the W. side. The cross roads 
 within may be distinctly traced. This station was the 
 centre of a system of fortifications, a support and place of 
 
 H 3 
 
102 OLD CARLISLE AMBLESIDE. 
 
 retreat to the troops occupying the circular line of camps 
 at Stanwix, Carlisle, Burgh, Bowness, Drumburgh, Mal- 
 bray, Maryport, and Moresby. Roads communicated with 
 Maryport, Old Carlisle, and Drumburgh ; the latter at Low 
 Moor is still noticeable. At Akehead, 3m. N., are 
 some earthworks ; and at Caermote, one of the peaks of 
 the mountain limestone to the west and south of this sta- 
 tion, are similar works. The line now crosses the Carlisle 
 and Whitehaven road, and passes through Curthivaite sta- 
 tion, 7jm. from Carlisle, near Crofton Hall, (Sir W. 
 Briscoe,) and by Dalston, 4^m. from Carlisle. Hose Cas- 
 tle, (Bishop of Carlisle) is lm. distant, and 7^m S.W. 
 of Carlisle, standing on a gentle elevation; on the 
 N.E. are remains of a gateway and two towers. Ed- 
 ward I. held his court here, 1300 ; and Bobert Bruce 
 burnt the castle, 1322 ; the Scots again set it on fire in 
 1337; it was fortified in the reign of Edward III., and 
 dismantled in the civil wars. Bishop Strickland in 1400 
 rebuilt one of the chief towers, now covered with ivy: 
 successive alterations have nearly destroyed its former cas- 
 tellated appearance. Hickman restored it for Bishop 
 Percy. Carlisle is the terminus of the line. 
 
 AMBLESIDE. 
 
 LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 • " hills, with many a shaggy forest mixed, 
 
 With many a sable cliff and glittering stream 
 
 Aloft, recumbent o'er each hanging ridge 
 
 The brown woods wave ; while ever-trickling springs 
 
 Wash from the naked roots of oak and pine 
 
 The crumbling soil, and still at every fall 
 
 Down the steep windings of the channelled rocks, 
 
 Remurmuring rush the congregated floods 
 
 With hoarse reverberation, till at last 
 
 Reaching the plain, clearer than glass they flow." 
 
 We now proceed to consider in detail the various centres 
 of observation in the Lake District, between the coast line 
 
AMBLESIDE. 103 
 
 and the ' railway on the east, with the routes to places of 
 interest in their vicinity. These towns are Ambleside, Bow- 
 ness, Kendal, Keswick, and Penrith. We shall afterwards 
 rejoin Carlisle from Penrith, and then describe the country 
 in its vicinity. 
 
 Ambleside. — (Hotels : Salutation, "White Lion, Com- 
 mercial, Lowwood inn, on the shores of Windermere; 
 pop. 1592.) The town, called Amelsate in 1273, and 
 Hamelside at a later period, is 4^m. N.W. of Win- 
 dermere, 4m. from Grasmere, 13m. from Kendal, 25m. 
 S.W. of Appleby. Letters arrive at 6*30 a.m., and 
 are dispatched at 6*10 p.m. It stands on a lower eminence 
 of Wansfell, near the site of the Poman station of Dictis, 
 which was a guard on the pass of Kirkstone, Duumail 
 Paise, and Hard Knott. It is 7m. inland from the head of 
 Windermere and nestles at the foot of Wansfell, being also 
 surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains except towards 
 the south. The valley is watered by the Potha, which 
 flows down from the lakes of Grrasmere and Pydal, and 
 having united with the Bratha from Langdale, enters Win- 
 dermere. The town is entered on the south by two roads, 
 one from Bowness, the other from Hawkshead, Coniston, 
 and the vale of the Bratha ; a third road on the N.W. leads 
 to Keswick, and a fourth passing steeply by the chief inn, 
 to Ulleswater and Kirkstone Pass. The best approach is by 
 the Kendal railway to Birth waite on the east side of Win- 
 dermere, from which town coaches rim to Ambleside 
 thrice daily at a fare of Is. The Whitehaven mail 
 passes daily through Ambleside/ leaving the same station 
 on the arrival of the trains. There is also a coach to Kes- 
 wick. This miniature market town has a little market- 
 place, a portion of a market-cross, declivitous streets, an 
 older church in the west part of the town, rebuilt 1812, and 
 JS. Mary's (S. I. Fell, P.C.), consecrated 1854. The latter 
 church standing in the centre of the valley west of the 
 town, is built of dark grey stone with a freestone spire, and 
 contains three memorial windows, one raised to Words- 
 worth 1853. On the eve before the last Sunday in July the 
 young girls in procession, preceded by musicians, cany to 
 
 H 4 
 
104 AMBLESIDE STOCK GHYL FORCE. 
 
 the church garlands of flowers, which are removed after 
 Evening Prayer on the following day. This was formerly 
 known as Rush-bearing, and the custom is also preserved at 
 Shap, and S. Oswald's, Grasmere ; at Rochdale ; Warton, 
 Yorkshire, on May-Day f and S. Theobald's, Musgrave, on 
 old Midsummer Day, and at S. Columba's, Worcup, on 
 S. Peter's Day. It originated in the necessity of strewing 
 the cold pavement with rushes, and was probably connected 
 with the dedication feast of the church. Wordsworth 
 alludes to the ceremony : — 
 
 " Forth, by rustic music led, 
 
 The village children, while the sky is red 
 
 With evening lights, advance in long array 
 
 Through the still churchyard, each with garland gay, 
 
 That, carried sceptre-like, o'ertops the head 
 
 Of the proud bearer." 
 
 Norwich cathedral on Mayor's Day, and S. Mary's Redcliffe, 
 Bristol, on Whitsunday, are strewn with rushes. The Roman 
 station is known as Burran's Ring ; roads communicated with 
 Keswick, Paterdale, Kendal, and Ravenglass. The walls 
 were built of Dalton freestone, and formed an oblong 396 
 by 240 ft. wide, the longest side being furthest from the lake. 
 Some coins found here now belong to the university of 
 Oxford. 
 
 Stock Grhyl Force is a waterfall in a copse half a mile 
 distant from the Market Cross; the tourist crosses the 
 stable yard of the Salutation Inn, keeping the stream to 
 the left which turns the wheel of the bobbin mill that is 
 heard sounding and plashing on the opposite bank. To 
 the right is the path to Wansfell, to the left the visitor 
 passes through a wooded wild ravine, unchanged since the 
 Roman camped at Ambleside, or hewed out a road along 
 the ridge of Troutbeck. The fall, 70 feet high, merry 
 and musical, is divided at top into two cascades by a pro- 
 jecting front of rock, feathered with wood, and then from 
 an intervening ledge each current takes two leaps over 
 the green shelving rocks. The waters unite in a stony 
 basin, and after stopping to sink into clear and dim pools, 
 join the brawling Rotha about one mile from Winder- 
 
LOUGHRIGG FELL. 105 
 
 mere. The white foam is seen through the foliage, the 
 green and brown stones in the bed of the stream, pools 
 clear as starlight reflecting the emerald green of the 
 opposite slope of the dell, the gushing water, the grey- 
 roof and russet water-mill, the cheerful sound of the 
 rookery within earshot, and an ivy-covered house rich in 
 fuchsias and china roses, with bees humming and swinging 
 in the bells and fragrant blossoms, make up sights and 
 sounds most delightful to the man just free from some close 
 city street. The walk to Xirkstone will repay him ; it lies 
 1m. up the stream of the Stock, which rises in the screes 
 on the side of Scandale Fell and joins the Rotha 4m. from 
 its source. 
 
 Loughrigg Fell, 1050 feet high, is a rocky, fem-clad 
 hill rising opposite to the town, and ascended by a 
 heather-skirted path near copses rich in wood-anemones. 
 The summit, wavy, rock-ribbed, and pinnacled, commands 
 a view of Hawkshead, the vale of Rotha, the oval tarns of 
 Bletham, and Elterwater and Lough Rigg, the Lakes of 
 Grasmere, with its white church tower, and Rydal marked 
 by its central island, and the broader portion of Winder- 
 mere, sheltered by low hills, in broad contrast with the 
 giant's chair of Fairfield, the crest of Helm Crag, the 
 pillared Pikes of Langdale, the ribbed peak of Scaw Fell, 
 the dark bulk of Nabscar overshadowing Rydal Mount, the 
 curved outline of Helvellyn, and the vast triangle of 
 Skiddaw. Foxhow lies at the eastern foot of the moun- 
 tain, which may be ascended by a walk of 3Jm. by 
 Skelwith Bridge, or Loughrigg Fold, near the gun- 
 powder works. Loughrigg Tarn, which covers 12 acres, 
 and is 2 Jm. from Ambleside, is a Dian's looking-glass, and 
 was the darling haunt of Professor Wilson, who salutes 
 it as — 
 
 " Thou gentlest lake, from all unhallowed things 
 
 By grandeur guarded in thy loveliness, 
 . . . With a thousand smiles 
 
 Dancing and brightening o'er thy sunny wave." 
 
 The view from Ivy Crag overlooks the calm round 
 tarn with its bright waters, and there is a pleasant walk 
 
106 TO NABSCAR AND FAIRFIELD. 
 
 with an easy ascent to Kound Knott at the east end of the 
 Fell. 
 
 Ambleside to Nab Scar and Fairfield. — The dis- 
 tance is 5m. to Fairfield, a mountain between Ulleswater 
 and Windermere, 2950 feet high; the tourist follows 
 the Rydal Road, and diverging on the road between 
 Rydal Hall and Mount, follows a green lane to the 
 Common, and then commences the fatiguing ascent up the 
 rocky, many-coloured, steep Nab Scar, the blunt end of 
 Fairfield. There is a way through Rydal Park (if leave is 
 granted), and another by the Nook, a farm-house, and 
 across the bridge over Scandale Beck, a stream rolling 
 down a rocky course, and then vaulting the stone wall 
 across the ridge above Rydal Park. Once on the Fells, 
 dappled by flocks, the wild drake by the waterside, the 
 hawk hovering high up in the air on the look-out for his 
 trembling quarry, or the sluggish buzzard, will be the only 
 living creatures seen. From Fairfield, gray Ulleswater, 
 within its rocky basin, is visible towards the north, in 
 which direction are rocky steeps above Deepdale ; to the 
 south are the yellow sands of Leven and Duddon and the 
 sea beyond; Easedale and Grisedale Tarns, with Elterwater, 
 are to the west. Billowy mountains, like a tremendous sea 
 suddenly petrified, are grouped to the eastward for miles 
 around, with mists flitting round their tops and passing like 
 ghostly messengers from one peak to another. 
 
 From the summit of Nab Scar, a secondary height 
 of this mountain marked by a pile of stones, are 
 seen Solway Firth, Windermere, Grasmere, Rydal, Ble- 
 tham, and Easedale Tarns ; on the S.W. are, Coniston 
 and Esthwaite Water and Grisedale Tarn, and Elterwater 
 beyond the western summits. The ridge is then followed 
 and the return made by Nook End Bridge, across Scandale 
 Beck, over High and Low Pikes, the centre distance being 
 10m. between the fences and the lane over Rydal Mount ; 
 or by the tarn into Grisedale: by the path from the 
 Keswick Road to Paterdale, or by the west ridge into the 
 Keswick Road by the Swan at Grasmere. 
 
 Wansfell Pike, 1590 feet high, 3m. from Ambleside, is 
 
WANSFELL TROUTBECK HUNDREDS. 107 
 
 reached by the right-hand path below Stock Ghyl Force, 
 among red ferns and green mosses, and, save the sign ! 
 occasional spots of morass. There is another ascent by 
 Lowwood Inn, and the descent is then made by Stock 
 Ghyl Lane, 2m. from Skelgill and lm. from Ambleside. 
 The Pike is a huge hill of slate, with thin bands of lime- 
 stone on the east side of Ambleside • and the ascent here, by 
 Low Fold Inn, under Strawberry Bank, and by Skelgill, 
 (2m.), is more easy than from Lowwood. From various 
 points of the summit, Ambleside, Hawkshead, all Win- 
 dermere, with its 13 islets ; Grasniere, backed by Easedale 
 Fells, and Kydal are seen to the S., and Lancaster, 
 Ulverston, and Milnthorpe Sands, with Langdale Pikes 
 and Coniston Old Man to the N.W. ; in the latter 
 direction is Nab Scar, overlooking Bydal Mere. Other 
 lofty hills, Loughrigg Fell, Great End, Broad Bow Fell, 
 Scawfell Pikes, and triple-peaked Crinkle Crags and bold 
 Wetherlam close the view. Kirkstone Pass, with its 
 screes, is seen stooping down on x\.mbleside, beyond which 
 is Scandale ridge ; Place Fell, at the head of Ulleswater, 
 rises on the north ; Stockdale is in the west; Troutbeck 
 valley to the east, with Hill Bell, High St., the Yoke, 
 the Frossick, and the hills over Kentmere, Mardale, and 
 Haweswater, and the blue misty outline of the moorlands of 
 Shap Fells. The view is still finer from another point 
 southward, called Troutbeck Hundreds, overlooking Hawks- 
 head, Gummer's How, and Bletham Tarn, with the woods 
 climbing the slopes and lining the ledges, in contrast to the 
 bare crag's, silvery rills glimmering down the channelled 
 hill- sides, now lost in shadow, now sparkling in the open 
 sunshine, and the far-off moivntains piled cloud-like in the 
 distance. The return is made by "Waterfall Lane (4m.), 
 from which Ambleside is distant lm., or the tourist may 
 push on through Troutbeck, cross High St., and pass 
 the night at the Dun Bull on Mardale Green ; or he may 
 make for Ulleswater over Kirkstone Pass. High Skel- 
 ghyl (3|m.) may be reached by a ramble along Wansfell, 
 passing up through the woods from Low Fold (l^-m.) The 
 view embraces the vale of the Kotha, the wooded crags of 
 
108 EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 
 
 Loughrigg Fell opposite; and the hills of Rydal and 
 Langdale Pikes. The descent (Jm.) leads to Low Skelgill 
 (3m.), and by a brook-side and Troutbeck Koad (3£m.) 
 to Lowwood (4jm.) 
 
 Ambleside to Coniston Lake (8m.) and Ulverston 
 (21Jm.) — The tourist diverges at a distance of l}m. from 
 the town, crosses the road to the Ferry (2^m.) ; (where 
 there are fine views of the mountains over Rydal and 
 Ambleside), passes JBorwick Ground (4^m.), with Bletham 
 Tarn to the left ; Waterhead Hotel (8m.), skirting Coniston 
 Lake to its foot (8^m.), reaches Nibthivaite (14m.), and 
 crosses Loiuick Bridge (16m.), and Penny Bridge (18^m.) 
 There is a railway from Coniston to Ulverston. 
 
 Ambleside to Eased ale Tarn (10m.), by High Close, 
 — The tourist proceeds to Skelwith Bridge (3m.), and 
 then following a steep ascent on the left up the spurs of 
 Loughrigg, reaches Loughrigg Tarn ; then to the left again 
 diverges to High Close (6m.). [There are lodgings to be 
 had at the farm-house at the top.] Before him is Langdale, 
 fern-clad and white with flocks, its grey farms fenced by 
 dark fir and spotted sycamore, and raised on knolls, as a 
 precaution against the winter floods. The hills round Elter- 
 water, Bow Fell, and the Pikes, Loughrigg Tarn and Winder- 
 mere, and the far Lancashire mountains, complete the land- 
 scape. He t now descends the steep of Red Bank. [To the right 
 is Loughrigg Fell terrace, a bridle road to Rydal and the 
 vale of Botha.] Across the breadth of Grasmere (7^m.), only 
 broken by its islet crowned with dark fir, appear the white 
 village church tower under Dunmail Raise, over which lies 
 the Keswick road ; and at its foot grand Helvellyn with 
 " the Swan," the starting-place for the pedestrian to Pater- 
 dale, and Helm Crag. To the left is Easedale, to which he 
 proceeds by a fenced lane near the Red Lion, a mile long, 
 and a road through water meadows and along an alder- 
 skirted brook ; up the hill-side beyond a farm-house, making 
 for Sour-Milk Ghyl Force, 60 feet deep, so called from the 
 whiteness of the broken water, which resembles butter- 
 milk ; and then follows the stream to its source among fern 
 and heather and moss, Easedale Tarn (10 m.). The dale, 
 
AMBLESIDE TO GRASMERE AND RYDAL. 109 
 
 full of waterfalls and rustic bridges, cottages perched on 
 nooks or on the hill-side, with a vale widening out into 
 spacious park-like meadows, but at the head dreary, wild, 
 and broken, reaches 8Jm. from High Baise to Grasmere, 
 and is bisected for half its length by Codale Fell, and then 
 walled in between Silver How and Helm Crag. Lady 
 Richardson, wife of the Arctic traveller, resides here. There 
 is a path from the head of the dale by Stonethwaite into 
 Borrodale. The return is made by Grasmere (12^m.) 
 and Bydal Water, across Pelter Bridge, over the Eotha 
 to Ambleside (1%il), [N.B.— The car (if used by the 
 tourist for this route) must be left about 2m. beyond the 
 farm-house.] 
 
 Ambleside to Grasmere and Bydal. — There is a coach 
 running between Ambleside and Keswick which passes 
 through Bydal and Grasmere. The road, having Green 
 Bank (B. Harrison) and Fairfield (2950 feet) and Wansfell 
 on the right, and Lough Bigg on the left, with the Botha 
 winding through green meadows, passes the Lord's Oak, a 
 tree growing in the wall, and crossing the North Bridge 
 over Scandale Beck (i|-m.), passes under a shady avenue 
 till it reaches Pelter Bridge, under which Bydal Beck flows 
 down towards a dark wooded glen. 
 
 Pedestrian Route. — The road here divides into a branch 
 to Grasmere on the left, and a circuitous pathway to Amble- 
 side, skirting the banks of the Botha and the steep craggy 
 heights of Loughrigg Fell through a rich valley. The 
 pedestrian, to reach Pelter Bridge, takes the Clappersgate 
 road, and crosses Botha Bridge, where there is a beautiful 
 view of the valley, the cap-like ridge of Fairfield, on which 
 Dr. Arnold loved to look in intervals of study, rising finely 
 over Bydal, with a glimpse through the woods of Bydal 
 Hall. The path by the first gate on the right hand must 
 be taken alongside the Botha under Loughrigg, passing 
 grey Fox How among silver birches (Mrs. Arnold), Millar- 
 bridge Cottage, Fox Ghyl (H. Boughsedge), Loughrigg 
 Home (Miss Quillinan), Spring Cottage (W. Peel), Field 
 Foot (W. D. Crewdon), the Knoll (Miss H. Martineau), 
 and Lesketh How (Dr. Davy, a brother of Sir Humphry). 
 
110 AMBLESIDE TO GRASMERE AND RYDAL. 
 
 Behind; under Wansfell; is Ambleside* on the right are 
 Fairfield and Kirkstone. He will observe Rydal Hall (Rev. 
 Sir R. Le Fleming) among its trees : Rydal Mount; once 
 "W. Wordsworth's home, and Loughrigg on the west ; and 
 Nabscar and Rydal Head on the north-east. 
 
 Leaving Pelter Bridge (2m.) on the right; he passes 
 Coat How, a farm-house (2im.); and Red Bank (4m.) ; 
 by the terrace road; where it rejoins the Grasmere and 
 Langdale road : he can now return to Ambleside by Lough- 
 rigg Tarn and Clappersgate; or by Dale End (4jm.); Wyke ; 
 and Grasmere Church (5^-m.) ; or he may return through 
 Rydal to Ambleside. The horse road skirting the west 
 side of Rydal Mere; under Loughrigg Fell; commands fine 
 views of the lake. Another route is by Clappersgate 
 (lm.); Guidepost (2jm.), Loughrigg Fold (2jm.); the Oaks 
 (3m.); to Grasmere (6m.). 
 
 The village of Rydal (Rotha Dale, or perhaps Rye-water 
 Dale), l^m. from Ambleside; is hemmed in by Lough- 
 rigg Fell; half rocky; half wooded; with a castle-like crest; 
 and by Rydal Knab ; a spur of Fairfield. Glen Rotha 
 (W. Ball) is passed; it was formerly; when called Ivy 
 Cottage; the residence of Quillinan, the translator of the 
 " Lusiad/' and Wordsworth's son-in-law. The lake is seen 
 with its two wooded islands • one, with plumy pines, is a 
 heronry. Rydal Mount is on the N.E. near the chapel; 
 built; 1825; on the rocky slope of Nabscar. The Knab; 
 just beyond ThwangCrag on the right; was successively the 
 home of De Quincy and Hartley Coleridge. 
 
 " Fair scene ! 
 Most loved by Evening and her dewy star, 
 Oh! ne'er may man, with touch unhallowed, jar 
 The perfect music of the charm serene! 
 Still, still unchanged, may one sweet region wear 
 Smiles that subdue the soul to love and tears and prayer." 
 
 Rydal Water is a gem, very small; but a perfect lake 
 in all its parts; £m. long by £m. in breadth; 54 feet 
 deep; and 156 feet above the level of the sea ; a stream 
 enters it from Grasmere; and the playful Rotha flows from 
 
RYDAL WATER AND MOUNT. Ill 
 
 it into Windermere. Pike, eels, and trout are caught in 
 it. A magnificent composition of mountains enclose the 
 little valley, which is diversified by crag, coppice, and in- 
 tervening green fields, and dotted over with simple cottages, 
 which group into the sylvan and pastoral village which lies 
 to the east. Passing up the lonely Glen Rotha, the tourist 
 sees Eydal Park on an eminence among noble timber trees, 
 beeches and oaks, the very place for a siesta on a hot 
 summer's day. By inquiring at the lodge, a guide will 
 conduct him to the falls. The uppermost, 50 feet high 
 (l^m.), leaps down a steep bank in a thin stream, which 
 expands before it falls into a natural basin below; the 
 lowermost and smaller cascade (2m. from Ambleside) 
 gushes down through a rent in the bank over dark broken 
 masses of stone, and crosses a gray and ivied bridge which 
 spans the ravine. 
 
 Rydal Mount, so prettily described by Miss Jewsbury, 
 was for 37 years the home of Wordsworth, and in it he 
 died April 23, 1850. " You are going to Dora," was the 
 exquisitely touching intimation of his departure given to 
 him by his wife. The house has passed into other hands, 
 and his prized collections dispersed by auction; but the 
 tourist will turn aside to look at the objects which remained 
 unchanged — the terrace walk, the fir-cone arbour, the well, 
 Dora's field, and the white cottage, almost hidden by laurels 
 and rose-sprays. A stone still bears the plaintive inscription 
 which he wrote inviting the stranger to visit his beloved 
 home : — 
 
 " So let it rest; and time will come 
 When here the tender-hearted 
 May heave a gentle sigh for him 
 As one of the departed." 
 
 Windermere appears, in the poet's own words, like a 
 light thrown into the picture : — 
 
 " Soft as a cloud is yon blue ridge ; the mere 
 Seems fair as solid crystal, breathless, clear, 
 And motionless; and, to the gazer's eye, 
 Deeper than the ocean, in the immensity 
 Of its vague mountains and unreal sky." 
 
112 THE "BEAUTY OF RYDAL MERE." 
 
 Near Branthwaite Fold is a liill covered with gorse and 
 hazel and groves of yew. Some years since, in a cottage 
 here, now ruined and ivy-grown, lived u Lucy of the Fold," 
 the only child of Allan Fleming, perpetual May Queen, and 
 known as the " Beauty of Bydal Mere." A wandering 
 student from college, Harry Howard, stopping to rest, 
 begged permission to spend his vacation here. Two years 
 passed by, and the stranger, who never left the dale, having 
 won the young girl's promise to become his bride, repaired 
 to London to make some necessary arrangements. On his 
 return late at midnight, he halted above White Moss, and 
 looked for the light in the cottage window, the concerted 
 sign that he was expected. The lamp was shining like a 
 star ) and, quickening his steps, at length he threw open the 
 door. His beloved was before him, apparently stretched 
 lifeless on a couch. He swooned at the sight, and when he 
 revived her arms were clasped round his neck, heart to heart, 
 and face to face ; but as he gazed Grod took her spirit to Him- 
 self. Three days and nights he kept there his sleepless 
 watch ; for weeks and months after she was carried to her 
 place of rest he seemed neither to hear nor see, and when 
 reason returned he would himself whisper, and bid others 
 speak low, for " she was sleeping," or cast himself in an 
 agony on the grassy mound beneath which indeed she slept. 
 Three years after, under the shadow of Mount Zion, he also 
 was taken to his rest, and within his hands lay a lock of a 
 woman's hair. 
 
 The road from Bydal, after traversing a cutting through 
 the low- wooded rock of Thwang Crag, which commands a 
 good view, now winds round White Moss slate quarry 
 (2Jm.), and opens a prospect of the lovely vale of Grasmere. 
 On the N. are Helm Crag and Steel Fell ; on the S. Lough- 
 rigg; on the W. Silver How; on the E. are Fairfield, 
 Nabscar, Helvellyn, and Seat Sandal. On the west of 
 Helm Crag is the mountain gate of Easedale ; on the east 
 of the hill, the way to Dunmail Baise. From the west side 
 of the foot under Loughrigg Fell a road goes to Hawkshead 
 and the Lang Dale. 
 
 The pedestrian will take here a shorter route over the 
 
GRASMERE. 113 
 
 hill by the old road to Grasmere, obtaining fine views of 
 the lakes, and passing the site of the " Wishing Gate/' 
 1m. from Grasmere, and by Townend, where on Decem- 
 ber 21, 1799, W. "Wordsworth made his first home, removing 
 in 1809 to Allan Bank. The view from the Wishing Gate 
 embraces steep Silver How, Redbank, a break in Lough- 
 rigg Fell, witli a glimpse of Easedale between Silver How, 
 and the wedge-like Helm Crag, Dunmail Raise, between 
 Seat Sandal and Steel Fell, and Grasmere tower and village. 
 The roads reunite at Townend, (3^m.) $ the new road is 
 fenced off the east side of the lake ' by a stone wall to the 
 village of Grasmere. 
 
 " Dear valley, thou art pleased, 
 Pleased with thy crags, and wooded steeps, thy lake, 
 Its own green island, and its winding shores, 
 The multitude of little rocky hills, 
 Thy church, and cottages of mountain stone, 
 Clustered like stars some few, hut single most, 
 And lurking dimly in their shy retreats." 
 
 Grasmere, (the lake of the wild swine), 4m. from Am- 
 bleside : Red Lion, on the W. side, near the church, con- 
 venient for travellers to Langdale and Easedale ; Hollins, E. 
 side, and Lowther, S.E. side ; Prince of Wales, [Keswick 
 Road], Swan. 
 
 The village, comprising the church, the inn, and a few 
 cheerful houses, stands in a green meadow to the north of 
 the lake ; gloomy Steel Fell lies to the left near weather- 
 beaten Silver How, with a brook gleaming down its side, 
 and the curve of Easedale ; the eastern boundary line is 
 made up by Stone Arthur, Seat Sandal, Fairfield, and 
 the bulk of Helvellyn. It is partly embowered in woods, 
 partly open, with large solitary trees standing apart, here 
 with slopes of green meadows, there with sylvan shores 
 dotted with houses, or sending up the light wreaths of 
 smoke, the only sign of habitation. Scott, when the guest 
 of Wordsworth, finding his host's fare somewhat thin, used 
 on various pretences to hurry away daily to the Swan to 
 have a more generous diet ; one day when about to ascend 
 Helvellyn with Southey and his brother poet, while mount- 
 
114 GRASMERE. 
 
 ing their ponies Boniface cried out to Sir Walter, "Ah 
 sir, but you're early for your drink to-day." 
 
 In S. Oswald's, described by Wordsworth in lines un- 
 happily no longer appropriate, the men and women occupy 
 different sides of the church, and u rush-bearing " is still 
 observed. Under aged pines, sycamores, and eight mourn- 
 ful yews planted by himself, is the dark-blue headstone of 
 Wordsworth, who attended service here for the last time, 
 March 10, 1850, and near it are the Caen stone monument of 
 Hartley Coleridge, d. Jan. 6, 1849, surmounted by a cross 
 entwined with thorns ; the memorial of Dora Quillinan, 
 an Agnus Dei, and the tombstones of her mother and 
 husband. The lake is 1£ by 3m., 180 feet deep, and 180 
 feet above the sea ; it contains one island of 4 acres, with a 
 clump of trees, green and pastoral. The ascent of Helm 
 Crag, which commands views of Langdale Pikes, S.W., 
 Coniston Fells and Esthwaite W^ater S., Helvellyn and Blen- 
 cathra N., and Windermere S. E., is made by Goody Bridge 
 to Thomey How (ljni.), summit of Crag, (2m.,) Tarn 
 How (2Jm.), Grasmere (3 Jm) ; to Easedale Tarn, by Goody 
 Bridge (|m.), Steel Bridge (lm.), Easedale Tarn (2im.) 
 round the tarn (3jm.,) Blind Tam Gill (4im.), Steel 
 Bridge (4^m.), Grasmere (5Jm.) Helm Crag (2m.,) 
 is marked with strange broken outlines like ruins ; which 
 Wordsworth compared to an aged woman cowering, and 
 Green to a lion with a lamb between its paws. There is a 
 rough and steep bridle path to Pater dale (7m.) by Grise- 
 dale, diverging here at a smithy (fm.) On the height 
 opposite the middle of the lake, where three roads meet, 
 is the site of the Wishing Gate, (lm.), where it was 
 supposed every good wish indulged would have its 
 fulfilment. Along these ways Wordsworth loved to stroll 
 u booing out " his immortal verse. 
 
 " Not such the land of wishes — there 
 Dwell fruitless day-dreams, lawless prayer, 
 
 And thoughts with things of strife; 
 Yet how forlorn, should ye depart, 
 Ye superstitions of the heart, 
 How poor were human life." 
 
AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 115 
 
 Good views are obtained from Loughrigg Terrace, from 
 the road to Allan Bank (J. Jeffreys) ; B-utterlip How, (Jm. 
 from the inn) on the way to Easedale ; from Dearbought 
 Hill and JRedbank, where the road to Langdale crosses 
 Lough Rigg ; and from the footpath behind Eydal and 
 Nab Scar to Grasmere. 
 
 Ambleside, by Eydal Water, Grasmere, and Dukmail 
 Raise and Thirlmere, to Kjeswick (16im.), (2£ hours 
 by coach). — The road passes through Grasmere, where it 
 stops for passengers at the Swan Inn (4Jm. from Amble- 
 side), at the junction of three roads; one from Ambleside 
 to Keswick, a second from Tarn End to S. Oswald's and Red- 
 bank, and the third from the village to the Keswick Road, 
 lm. N. of Town End. [Fairfield or Helvellyn may be 
 ascended ; and lm. beyond is a mountain path to Paterdale 
 and Ulleswater by Grisedale Tarn, between Heivellyn and 
 Seat Sandal, and ascending a pass between the latter and 
 Fairfield.] Mail coaches leave Grasmere at 11 a.m. and 6 
 p.m., for Windermere terminus, and arrive at 9 a.m. and 
 8 p.m. 
 
 The road is followed to the Toll Bar (5|m.) ; Helm 
 Crag, with its odd broken summit, and majestic Skiddaw 
 rise on the right, and on the left Fairfield, Silver How, and 
 Seat Sandal. A footpath skirts the road on one side, and 
 on the other a slope covered with green rushes ; the road 
 steep but tolerably good, which is described in the poem of 
 " The Waggoner," rises gradually to a height of 720 feet, at 
 the pass of Dunmail (Fort-hill) Raise (6|m.), where a 
 cairn so small and unshaped as to require to be pointed out, 
 commemorates the defeat of the Cumbrian King Dunmail, 
 by Edmund the Saxon, 945. Grasmere, backed by Lough- 
 rigg Fell, is seen on looking back, and partially hidden by 
 Butterlip-how on the W. ; Seat Sandal on the E. ; to 
 the north the vale of Legberthwaite, Skiddaw, and Naddle 
 Fell are visible ; and Cumberland is entered. There are some 
 remains of the old boundary wall between the counties. 
 On the east side is Greenhead Ghyl, where Wordsworth's 
 Michael and Isabel lived in the cottage known from its 
 bright windows, lit by a cheerful lamp at night, as the 
 i 2 
 
116 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 
 
 "evening star;" an oak still marks its site. Wytlieburn. 
 locally called " the city/ 7 is Jm. to the left of tlie Nag's 
 Head Lm (7-J-m.), from which Helvellyn may be as- 
 cended by a very steep path, but the most direct route is 
 near the chapel, following a stream to its source on Brown- 
 riggs Well. 
 
 At Waterdale (lm. from the Nag's Head, and 8m. 
 from Keswick) the pedestrian can diverge from the main- 
 road, and passing by the cottages known as the City, pass by 
 the western shore of Thirlmere along the level of deep 
 grass and heather, with clear pools and over reedy grass, and 
 among which the heron may be surprised ; then under an 
 amphitheatre of rocks wooded to their summits, except 
 where the projections of dark brown or grey crags peer out 
 among the rich foliage, or a stream leaping down from 
 some recess, adds animation to the scene and makes a 
 break among the trees. He takes his way under Armboth 
 Fells, where there is a haunted house soiled by some deed 
 of blood ; and when the owls hoot, and the lake mists are 
 tinged by a red harvest moon, the wail of an unhappy spirit 
 seems to rend the air and unearthly lights sparkle ; the bells 
 ring, the peasants say, a black dog is seen to swim across the 
 water, and then the sound of a wedding feast is heard 
 through the lighted windows, and the spirit of the 
 murdered bride rises from the lake to share the ghostly re- 
 velry. The pedestrian now proceeds by a shady lane through 
 a farmyard, and crossing the centre of the lake by a bridge, 
 a wooden structure built on piers of rough stone, and re- 
 joins the high road at the King's Head. By the side of the 
 way a slab of slate, erected by W. Ball, bears an epitaph, 
 Sept. 30, 1843 :— 
 
 " Fall'n from his fellow's side, 
 The steed beneath is lying; 
 In harness here he died, 
 His only fault was dying." 
 
 Thirlmere, Wytheburn, or Leathes Water now lies before 
 the traveller, a black and solemn lake, narrow and river-like, 
 with a rugged rock-bound shore in the valley of Legber- 
 thwaite, and at the feet of the vast buttresses of the steep 
 
AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 117 
 
 and bare Helvellyn. It is closed in by precipices, White- 
 side Fell and Watson Dodd, E. ; High St. and Armboth 
 Fells on the W. ; and is 2^m. long, Jm. to ^-m. broad, 108 
 feet in the deepest part, and 473 feet above the sea. Its 
 modern name is derived from its owner, T. S. Leathes, of Dale- 
 head House. Lonscale Fell occupies the distance, Haven 
 Crag, like a gigantic round tower blackened and rent with 
 storms, is at the foot, and Eagle-Crag near a small 
 island, rises crowned with oak woods at the upper end of 
 the lake. On the N.E. are picturesque wooded promon- 
 tories. Its air of wildness and desolation is augmented by 
 the deep brown shadows cast by the mountains — Skiddaw's 
 vast cone, Helvellyn strewn with rocks and streaming with 
 torrents, and the beetling rocks on the west shore, some 
 grey and bare, some pyramidal and wooded, towering over 
 the tiny headlands. At the 10th milestone the vale of 
 S. John, with the Castle rock, opens out, and S. John's Beck 
 is crossed at Smeathwaite Bridge. 
 
 The pedestrian can reach Keswick by crossing Armboth 
 Fell and proceeding through the glen of Watendlath (3^-m.), 
 and then along the shore of Derwentwater. The cart track 
 on the left of the main road just past the Nag's Head is to 
 be taken, the meadows at the head of Thirlmere crossed, 
 and the indistinct path up the fell, commanding a grand 
 panorama, breasted, till the top is gained, and then the 
 walker must set his face towards the N. W. 
 
 [Another route may be taken at the 6th milestone from 
 Keswick, where there is a fine view of Lec/berthwaiie Vale, 
 (King's Plead), by crossing Thirlmere over the bridge, keep- 
 ing the lake on the right and rejoining the main road at 
 Slioulthivaite Moss, 4m. from Keswick ; a third route is by 
 following S. John's Beck through the valley of S. John to 
 Keswick.] At Causey Foot (14m.), a comfortable farm- 
 house backed by lofty trees, Naddle Fell, Helvellyn, Skid- 
 daw, and Saddleback are seen on the left ; Shoulthwaite Moss 
 and the rocky Betid to the right. At Castle Eigg Beow 
 (15 Jm.) Derwentwater and vale open on the view ; and 
 passing a road on the right to the Druids' circle (lm. from 
 Keswick,) the tourist reaches Keswick (16 Jm.) 
 I 3 
 
118 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 
 
 Ambleside to Keswick by Bokeodale and Cod ale 
 Fell. — The tourist must proceed by Grasmere church, 
 Goody Bridge (5m. ), and up Tliorney How (6m.) into the 
 valley of Easedale, on the west side of Helm Crag, (7m.) 
 Easedale, and passing Easedale and Colddale Tarns, having 
 reached, after a steep and toilsome ascent, a narrow level 
 moor known as Codale Fell. He then reaches "Wytherun- 
 dale Head (9m.), Greenupdale Head, (10m.), by Greenup 
 Vale, descends on Stonethwaite (13m.), and pursues his 
 way to Keswick (20m.) 
 
 Ambleside to Keswick, by the Stake Pass, (24m.) 
 The tourist proceeds by the Keswick road to Pelter Bridge 
 (lm.), by Coathow to Bydal and Grasmere, High Close 
 and Langdale, (5m.), Lisle Bridge (7m.), and Millbank 
 farm-house. He then proceeds by Langdale Head (8m.) 
 and Mickledore to the top of the Stake Pass, (13m.) ; 
 the last half-mile of ascent being made by a winding 
 path skirting a turbulent stream flowing down from the 
 moorland to Langdale valley. Bowfell casts his huge 
 shadows to the left. Half a mile on the other side the de- 
 scent is made by the side of a mountain stream, into the 
 wild and desolate vale of Langstreth. Scawfell Pike, 
 Great Gable, and Hanging Knot are conspicuous, Skiddaw 
 is in the distance, and on crossing the summit of the pass, 
 Black Cap, Serjeant Crag, and rocky Eagle Crag are seen 
 upon the right. The tourist crosses over a stream flowing 
 from Angle Tarn, and by Stonethwaite farm-house, (17m.) 
 reaches Kosthwaite in Borrodale (18m.), where there 
 is a public-house, and thence by Lodore and Bow- 
 derstone (19m.), pursues his way to Keswick, (24m.). 
 There is another road to Millbeck by the Fell Foot road, 
 and the rough path by Wall End to Blea Tarn, (See 
 Ambleside to Egremont), and another way is by the peat 
 road, passing Stickle Tarn ; there is a third route down 
 Langdale by the chapel, and then taking the road on the 
 left, up the hill to High Close. (See Ambleside to Great 
 and Little Langdale). The changes in the scenery by this 
 route are very striking, lying through smooth green meadows 
 and fertile pastures, diversified by oak and birch, and hazel 
 
AMBLESIDE TO LANGDALE PIKES. 119 
 
 coppice ; brooks murmur oyer pebbly beds, wooded glens 
 are succeeded by mountains, more rugged at every step in 
 advance, by the brawling torrent and by loose stone walls 
 difficult to climb, till the centre of this barrier of wild 
 mountain is reached, from which there is no egress except 
 by the grand opening of the Stake Pass. 
 
 Ambleside to Langdale Pikes by Grasmebe and 
 Easedale. — The tourist proceeds to Grasmere (4m.), 
 Easedale (6Jm.), and Stickle Tarns, and by the path 
 over the moorland, mounts Harrison Stickle, 2409 feet, or 
 its neighbour peak, or he may take the route by Rydal and 
 Great Langdale, through Langdale, or that by Bratha Bridge 
 and Little Longdate, with Clare Moss near Black Bigg, by 
 Longdate and Blea Tarns and Wall End. (2) By a mountain 
 cart, taking provisions. The tourist proceeds by Clappers- 
 gate and crosses the Bratha, which he keeps to the right, 
 passes the guide-post, (2im.), Skelwith Fold, (8m.), Col- 
 with Bridge, (4m), (where there is a force 70 feet high, in a 
 dell,) and Little Langdale Tarn, (5|m.). He leaves the 
 Kendal and Whitehaven road to the left, and sees Wether- 
 lam on the S.W T . and Lingmoor on the right ; he crosses 
 the common in a north-westerly direction to Blea Tarn, 
 Tarn, (7jm.), in little Langdale, a solitary pool between 
 two high mountains, fenced with tremendous crags, re- 
 flecting a single farmhouse, and plantations of fir and larch 
 on either side. There is a large poised stone in its vicinity. 
 
 " Beneath our feet a little lowly vale, 
 A lowly vale, and yet uplifted high 
 Among the mountains, even as if the spot 
 Had been from eldest time, by wish of theirs, 
 So placed to be shut out from all the world ; 
 Urnlike it was in shape, deep as an urn, 
 With rocks encompassed." 
 
 Hugh Mackareth, an upright good man, but a prey to 
 Calvinism, believed himself a reprobate, and pursued by 
 fiends along the fell. One day he disappeared, and his 
 wife and daughter sought him here, and after a long search 
 discovered his floating form by his long white hair upon 
 the water j he had fled from his dread enemies, fallen, 
 I 4 
 
120 AMBLESIDE TO LANGDALE PIKES. 
 
 and been drowned ; one long wild shriek was heard, and 
 for three months after his wife remained unconscious of 
 her loss. Harrison Stickle, (3m.), and Stickle Pike, (4m.) 
 distant above Mickleden, the road over the Stake Pass to 
 Borrodale, and Gimmer Crag are seen, with Elterwater, 
 Loughrigg Tarn, and Windermere, with its islands to the 
 S. ; Loughrigg Fell and the hills round Ambleside and 
 Kentmere, S.E. • on the right is Wetherlam ; Under- 
 barrow Scar overtops Bowness; on the E. are Fairfield, 
 Helvellyn, Seat Sandal, " cloud-wooing hill;" the grey 
 outline of Coniston, Old Man, and Great Carrs, S.W. ; 
 Esthwaite Water is more to the E. ; between Crinkle 
 Crags and Bliscoe Pike, Gatescale is seen on the N. ; 
 and in the same direction, verging to the W., rise Blen- 
 cathra and Skiddaw. The tourist now descends to Wall 
 End (9fm.). [The Dungeon Ghyl, 90 feet high (lljni.) 
 may be visited after a walk of twenty minutes. The 
 cascade leaps down, with spray glittering like jewels, 
 under a natural arch of two fallen rocks, shaded by ash trees 
 rooted in the sides of the cleft and deep in ferns. The 
 path to it lies up the hill-side to the left, following the 
 stream to the left of Millbeck farm, (1m.), and diverges 
 at a gate on the right hand.] He now proceeds by Millbeck 
 over Lisle Bridge, (11m.) up to Stickle Tarn, half way down 
 Mill Ghyl, a round basin teeming with trout, and lying 
 under lofty Pavey Ark ,* then leaving it to the right and fol- 
 lowing a steep path by the sides of a stream, mounts Harrison 
 Stickle, the eastern summit 2400 ft. high, commanding a 
 view of a fine open country and great Langdale vale ; or 
 he may ascend Stickle Pi7te, the southern summit, 2300 ft., 
 to the S., with its fine prospect of the Coniston moun- 
 tains, and Little Langdale Vale S.W. ; Crinkle Crags, 
 Bowfell above Oxen-Dale, and over which the Pikes and 
 Scawfell soar, S. ; Bydal and Grasmere mountains E. ; 
 Helvellyn, W. ; Skiddaw, N. ; Great Gable and Great End, 
 and the Yale of Bassenthwaite. These bare sharp peaks 
 are seldom without clouds, sometimes resting like a soft 
 coronet, and then melting away off them, often robing them 
 in pale folds of mist ) and in winter storm gathering closer, 
 
LANGDALE PIKES. 121 
 
 until the red lightnings are shot like arrows around them, 
 and the roll of the thunder echoes with awful grandeur 
 among the deep chasms beneath. 
 
 The mountain echoes suggested the following lines by 
 Coleridge : — 
 
 " In Langdale Pike and Witches' Lair, 
 And Dungeon Gbyll, so foully pent, 
 With rope of rock and bells of air 
 Three sinful sextons' ghosts are pent, 
 Who all gave back one after t'other 
 The death note to their living brother ; 
 And oft, too, by their knell offended, 
 Just as their one, two, three, is ended, 
 The Devil mocks their doleful tale 
 With a merry peal from Borrodale." 
 
 Nothing can be grander or more impressive than at sunset 
 to contemplate the silence and solitude of the gloomy gorges, 
 the dark cliffs, the hoary peaks of the mountain mass, pin- 
 nacle after pinnacle, buttress behind buttress, towering up 
 from the mighty English Alps, with the pale phantom-like 
 outlines that show faintly as clouds through the grey and 
 purple haze of the farthest horizon, behind the nearer masses, 
 which begin to take a crimson tint from the declining sun. 
 
 There is also a third pike on the N.W. Great Langdale, 
 the vale of the Bratha, extends from the Stake, (5m.) 
 to Ellerwater and the entrance of Little Langdale, which 
 reaches from that point (3m.) to Wrynose, the latter as 
 far as Fell Foot, separates into the dale glens ; that to the 
 right was the old pack-horse way from Kendal to White- 
 haven, over Wrynose from Eskdale and Seathwaite ; on 
 the south is the road by Tilberthwaite to Coniston and 
 Hawkshead. The path from the Styhead Pass and over 
 Esk-Hause enters Great Langdale at Mickleden on the 
 W. ; another path, from Stonethwaite over the Stake, 
 enters it at Mill Ghyl on the E. ; and a third leads into it 
 from Easedale. The Stake Pass, (4£m. N.W. of Millbeck 
 and 5m. S.E. of Rosthwaite,) lies between Mickleden and 
 Langstreth (Borrodale). The tourist descends from Great 
 Langdale, passing Thwang Crag slate quarry, by Langdale 
 
122 AMBLESIDE TO NEWBY BRIDGE. 
 
 Chapel (13m.) 5m. from Ambleside, which he can reach 
 by Loughrigg Tarn, so sweetly alluded to by Professor 
 Wilson, 2Jm. from Ambleside in Great Langdale. The 
 mountains are green and heathery, and supply a stream 
 to the Bratha ; in securing the lowlands here from frequent 
 inundations the destructive pike have been introduced 
 into the lake. 
 
 The tourist may also return by Highclose (14 Jm.) 
 with good views of the dale, or by a hill road, (3m. long,) 
 over Bedbank, through Grasmere (17m.) to Ambleside, 
 (21m.). The road to Dungeon Ghyl and the Pikes is 
 available for carriages ; a car or a horse must be used for the 
 remainder of the way. 
 
 Ambleside to Newby Bkidoe, Wikdekmere. — The 
 tourist, following the winding road under Loughrigg Fell, 
 leaves Croft Lodge, (J. Holmes) on the right, crosses Bratha 
 Bridge at Clappersgate (lm.), and passes Bratha Hall, 
 (G-. Bedmayne) on the left above Pool Wyhe, a deep 
 miniature bay ; upon the opposite shore are Troutbeck Han- 
 dreds and Wansfell Pike, rising over Calgarth, Wansfell 
 Holm, Dove's Nest, and Lovjwood Inn. The road to 
 Hawkshead (4m.) and Coniston diverges on the right 
 Ijm. from Ambleside. He passes Low and High-JVray 
 (5m.) Sand-beds, and reaches the Ferry Hotel, (See Kendal, 
 Boute 8.) under its sycamores (8m.), having been in sight of 
 Bough, Our Lady, S. Holm, Crow Holm, and Belle Isle, with 
 Birthwaite, Bayrigg, Bowness, and Ferry Nab, distinctly 
 seen on the opposite shore. He crosses the Cunsey stream 
 flowing from Esthwaite water (9^m.), opposite Ling Holm 
 and Storrs on the eastern shore, passes through the village 
 of Graithwaite (ll^m.), and by a country diversified with 
 coppices, reaches Newby Bridge (15m.), [8m. from 
 Ulverston, 10m. from Kendal by Cartmel Fell, 15m. by 
 Leven's Bridge]. Steamers also ply between Newby 
 Bridge and Ambleside, by which the return may be made, 
 or by road through Fell Foot on the left ; the road on the 
 right leading to Kendal. Coppices again succeed and flank 
 the winding, undulating road — they are used for making 
 charcoal, and for the supply of the bobbin mills. The views 
 
AMBLESIDE TO PENRITH. 123 
 
 from Fell Foot and Store's Hall are observable ; the traveller 
 passes Town Head, (17m.) within sight of Black Holm, 
 by the tower, Gill House under Gunner's How, near Store's 
 Hall (Rev. T. Stainforth), (21m.), by Michel Field, 
 crossing the Kendal and Hawkshead road to the Ferry, 
 through Bowness, under Rygrigg woods, by Calgarth, Low- 
 wood Inn, and Waterhead to Ambleside, 6m. from Bow- 
 ness. 
 
 Ambleside to Penkith. — The tourist passes between 
 the Old Church and the Grammar School, and after a steep 
 ascent of three miles and a half over moorlands and between 
 grey rocks and mountain streams, reaches Kirkstone Pass, 
 so called from a circle now destroyed, 1200 ft. above the 
 sea, fenced in by the overhanging precipices of Red Screes 
 on the left, and by Woundale Head on the right ; the huge 
 detached fragment of rock, still known as the Kirkstone, is 
 seen to the left. Before reaching the pass on the right, 
 under the shadow of the Red Screes, where a road diverges 
 to Troutbeck, is a little public-house ("The Travellers' 
 Rest"), which stands on the highest inhabited ground, 
 being 87 ft. higher than any other dwelling in the kingdom : 
 a stone coffin was dug up on its site. [Towards Ambleside, 
 Wansfell Pike is on the left and Loug-hrig-g' on the right. 
 In descending to Ambleside, the road, which lies over 
 ground once trod by the Roman legions, and is merely an 
 improved and widened old shepherds' track, is very steep 
 and precipitous, and in bad weather almost dangerous, but 
 on a fine day the view of the Coniston mountains, the vale 
 of Ambleside, the valleys at the head of Windermere, and a 
 far glimpse of the sea is most enjoyable.] The tourist, about 
 |m. beyond the little inn, begins the descent of a steep 
 and rugged path, with a torrent flowing alongside down a 
 rocky channel. All is solemn silence and impressive solitude. 
 Coldfield and Scandale Screes close the pass, with beau- 
 tiful views of Brothers' -water and Place Fell in front, 
 and openings with fir-crowned eminences, levels, and 
 ravines beyond, till he reaches the Common and High Harts- 
 hope, near Hartshope Hall. [To the right, 2m. distant, 
 is Hayes (or east) Water, a large lonely mountain tarn con- 
 
124 AMBLESIDE TO PENRITH. 
 
 taining fine trout, lying on the west side of a ridge between 
 Grey Crag and High St., and not far from another trout 
 tarn, Angle Tarn, (5 acres) on the south side of craggy 
 Place Fell, down which, after rain, the stream makes a 
 pretty waterfall : it is 8m. from Ambleside.] The dale is 
 prettily wooded and in parts overhung by the hills, one of 
 which is. curiously furrowed with the channels worn by the 
 mountain streams. The road lies along the eastern shore of 
 Brothers' (formerly Broader) Water, (§o called from the sad 
 fate of two brothers, who were drowned in it in 1785, while 
 skating), *Dove Crags forming the background, clothed 
 with wood. The road turns sharply off at right angles, 
 through a flat meadow tract on the banks of Deepdaie 
 Beck, which meets the Grisedale Beck, flowing from 
 Brothers' Water ; [a bridle road to Martindale diverges here, 
 and passing through the hamlet of Loiv Hartshope, skirts 
 Place Fell, and at Godrill Bridge, near Paterdale Inn, joins 
 the main road, which Brother road from Hartshope Hall 
 meets at Cowbridge.] The tourist now crosses the Deep- 
 dale beck at Cowbridge, (8im.), and S. Sunday's (S. 
 Dominic's) Crag and the gorge of Deepdaie appear .on the 
 right. In the direction of Kirkstone Pass, which has Cold- 
 dale Crags on the left, and Dodd Bielcl and Red Screes on the 
 right, the slopes of Dodd, Keystone bounding the glen over 
 the vast steep of Dow Crag, then Grey Crag, Kidsty Pike, 
 and Lough Rigg reflected in its clear tarn, form a fine view. 
 Deepdaie Beck at Cowbridge (8jm.) S. Sunday's Crag, 
 and the gorge of Deepdaie appear on the left; he shortly 
 after reaches the rich level of Paterdale (9Jm.), [Gelderd's 
 Hotel,] absurdly considered to be a corruption of Pater- 
 dale, as Matter-dale is of Mater-dale. The traveller pro- 
 ceeding to Paterdale crosses Grisedale Beck, [a mountain 
 road may be followed by the horseman or pedestrian into 
 Grasmere through Grim (wild swine) dale] and Glenridding 
 Beck, flowing from Keppel Cove and Bed Tarns, near the 
 top of Helvellyn, which may be ascended through the glen, 
 Glenridding House, (Rev. J. Askew) and Place Fell on the 
 opposite shore, appear to the right ; to the left is Paterdale 
 Hall (W. Marshall), Bilberry and Stybarrow Crags, the 
 
AMBLESIDE TO PASS OVER STYHEAD. 125 
 
 latter leaving barely space for the road along the side of 
 the lake of Ulleswater. He now crosses Glencoyn Beck, 
 flowing from Linkingdale Head, with Glencoyn House on 
 the left, and enters Cumberland. A spur of Birk Fell pro- 
 jects into the lake, in which House-holm Island is seen ; 
 the views are very beautiful along the whole distance to 
 LyxdpKs Tower, (13^-m.) [from which Aira Force is distant 
 Am. ; a waterfall 80 feet high], crossing Awa Bridge, 
 [where the Keswick road to Materdale (IOJhi.) intersects,] 
 the tourist enters Gowbarroio Park (15m.), (P. H. Howard) 
 passes Watermillock (17m), with Halsteads (W. Marshall) 
 on Skelly Neb and Bampsfell Lodge on the right, and 
 Birk Fell, Hallen Fell, and Swarth Fell and How Tarn 
 Wyke visible on the opposite shore. He now, after follow- 
 ing it for 9m., leaves Ulleswater and crosses the Dacre 
 (18fm.), [passing Dim Mallet, a Roman station on a hill, 
 and Pooley Bridge (Sim) Jm. to the right,] and travers- 
 ing Dalemain Park, (E. W. Hassell), (22m.) joins the Kes- 
 wick road for 2m. and enters Pexrith (23jm.). 
 
 Ambleside to the Pass over Sty Head (16£m.); — 
 The tourist proceeds by Langdale Head and by the left- 
 hand path up Rosset Ghyl, a steep and narrow water 
 channel over Esk Hause, a central ridge or depression be- 
 tween Great End and Hanging Knot ; the latter a portion 
 of Bowfell. It exhibits a grand panorama, with three lines 
 of landscape ; one down Eskdale, where the Esk runs, 
 fringed with larch and mountain ash, by Black Combe to 
 the sea beyond ; a second by the continuous vales of Kes- 
 wick and Borrodale, the lake of Bassenthwaite and Der- 
 wentwater, with its specks of islets, the pyramidal height 
 of Skiddaw, Blencathra, and Helvellyn, away to Solway 
 Firth and the Scottish mountains ; and the third by Lang- 
 dale Pikes and Windermere to the mural crown of Ingle - 
 borough. He then reaches Sprinkling Tarn, crosses Styhead 
 Pass, 1000 feet above the vale of Borrodale, so called be- 
 cause it was a haunt of the wild boar. The pass is flanked 
 by Great End, S.W. ; Glaramara, E. ; and Great Gable, 
 X.W. He now descends upon Seathwaite. The noto- 
 rious Baron Trenck once dashed down this defile on horse- 
 
126 ROUTES FROM AMBLESIDE. 
 
 back, to the terror of his guide, and in one day completed 
 a journey of 56m. along the steep and difficult roads of the 
 neighbourhood on a single horse. From Styhead by Seath- 
 waite, Greenup, and Eskdale to Ambleside, the distance 
 is 18m. 
 
 Ambleside to Strands, 32 J miles by carriage road. — 
 The tourist proceeds by Comston (9m.) and Torver to 
 Broughton '(18m.), (Old King's Head), with views of the 
 sands of the estuary of Duddon Mouth and the railway 
 crossing it, Black Combe, and Broughton Tower, cresting 
 the woods above the town, over Duddon Bridge (l^m.), 
 turning to the right, and enters the valley of the brown- 
 coloured Duddon, flowing between rocky banks, sung by 
 Wordsworth in some of the sweetest of his sonnets. To 
 the left are rugged banks covered with wild flowers, 
 woods, and the road to Bootle; he proceeds by Ulpha 
 Kirk (22Jm), Stanley Ghyl (26^-m.), Santon Bridge (30Jm.), 
 to Strands (32| m.). 
 
 Ambleside to Strands and Wastwater Water, afoot. 
 — The pedestrian, proceeding by Dalegarth Force (16m.), 
 Santon Bridge (20m.), and lm. from Crook at the head of 
 Wastwater and Strands Inn (22m.), then takes the road 
 upon the right, [that to the left is described under Amble- 
 side to Egremont], which is steep and long, but commands 
 good views of the Screes on the right. The tourist can 
 diverge on the right to the Strands by Nether Wastdale 
 (2Jm.), or by footpath across Miterdale over a hill on the 
 right, in either case just before reaching Santon Bridge. 
 He then descends and crosses the Irt Bridge ; the road to 
 the right leads to the lake, the road to the left leads by the 
 church to the two inns. 
 
 Ambleside to Eoremont and Whitehaven (38m.). — 
 This route is practicable for pedestrians and horsemen j 
 there are no relays, however, for the greater part of the 
 distance. The tourist leaves the town, starting from the 
 market-place by the road to the right, and crosses Rotha 
 Bridge. Croft Lodge (J. Holme) is to the right, and 
 Fairfield closes up the valley. Loughrigg Fell rises on the 
 right of Clappersgate (lm.) ; on the left is the road to 
 
TO EGREMONT AND WHITEHAVEN. 127 
 i 
 
 Hawkshead, and at the cross-road (2jm.) is a winding 
 path on the right to Great Langdale. Two roads on 
 either bank of the Bratha unite at Skelwith Bridge (3m.), 
 which lies beyond a valley, hedged in by the screen of 
 mountains reaching from the Old Man to the Pikes, and 
 past Rotha Chapel, on a knoll under which the earliest 
 snow-drops and daffodils may be found in spring. Crossing 
 into Lancashire by a winding, undulating road, the tourist 
 mounts the steep hill to the right, and obtains a view of 
 the Langdales, separated by Lingmoor and Elterwater. 
 On the left is the road to Coniston, skirting Oxenfell, 
 through Yewdale, under the savage and stupendous range 
 of Yewdale Crags. A gap in the wall on the left and a 
 field-path for about 100 yards lead to Skelwith Force, 
 20 feet high, its sides fenced in by rocks and woods, and 
 backed by Langdale Pikes. Following the path through 
 the wood to the top of the hill, he can rejoin the road, and 
 then at a distance of a mile turn to the right down the de- 
 scent to Colwith Bridge. There is another cascade, Colwith 
 Force, 70 feet high, near Colwith Bridge (4^m.), spanning 
 a brawling stream, over which he crosses into Westmore- 
 land. Langdale Tarn, backed by the stupendous bluff of 
 Wetherlam, soon after appears on the left. About a mile 
 further on the right a road diverges along the head of 
 Elterwater, stretching up to great Langdale ; another road, 
 in a straight direction to the latter by Blea Tarn, turns 
 off at a gate before reaching Fell Foot ; and a third, on 
 the left, passes through Tilberthwaite to Coniston (5m.). 
 The left-hand road is kept where the second path described 
 diverges. At Fell Foot (6^-m.), where in old days the 
 pack-horses, with their merry jingling bells, were baited at 
 a wayside inn, the tourist begins to climb the steep side of 
 Wrynose (8m.). Wansfell Pike appears on looking back ; 
 Coniston fells and the Cans are to the right ; and the Three 
 Shire Stones on the summit mark the junction of Cumber- 
 land, "Westmoreland, and Lancashire, divided by a stream 
 on the right. Traces of a Roman military road are found 
 here and upon Hard-knott. 
 
 The road, crossing desolate hills, now leads down to 
 
128 ROUTES FROM AMBLESIDE. 
 
 Cockley Beck Bridge (10^m.), (a farm-house here will 
 afford refreshments), across the Duddon, winding on its 
 way through Seathwaite Vale to Morecambe Bay, near 
 Broughton (12m). Rocky Cumberland is now entered, 
 and the dreary road ascends to Hard Knott, which parts 
 Seathwaite from Eskdale (12|m.), [from the top is seen the 
 whole valley to the" sea, the rugged points of the Isle of 
 Z>lan, over the Irish Sea ; the precipitous Scawfell appears 
 on the N. W.] Between them and the slopes of Bowfell 
 on the east are desolate hills, in which lie the springs of 
 the Esk and Duddon. The road passes within 120 yards 
 of the remains of Hard-knott Castle on the right, forming 
 an irregular square, above 323 by 352 feet, built of fell- 
 stone ; a gate to the east leads to a square place of arms, 
 an area of 2 acres, 150 yards distant ; on the north side is a 
 mound on which stood a round tower. The road is con- 
 tinued over Esk Bridge (13 Jm.) into Eskdale, bounded 
 by Scawfell on the right and by Seathwaite fell on the 
 left, over the Esk. The road passes by Dawson Ground 
 (Woolpack Inn), (15m.), in sight of Birker Force on 
 the left, through Bout (16. m), with Dalegarth Force, 
 62 feet high, and Ponsonby Hall on the left. [A rough 
 mountain road leads by Burnmoor, a cheerless sheet cf 
 water, between Scaw Fell and the Screes, descending by a 
 steep peat-cart track into Wastdale Head (6m.) ; a road 
 runs to Broughton (17m.) by Ulpha.] Devocke Water 
 (4m.) and Barn Scar (4im.) are also on the left. At the 
 King of Prussia Inn he crosses into Miterdale, and catches 
 a pretty view of the valley up to Pavenglass ; he mounts 
 rising ground, with woodlands, fields, and the sand- 
 bound sea still in sight, and again descending, crosses 
 Mite Bridge (20m.), [the road to Bavenglass diverges 
 on the left], and over undulating ground ; reaches Santon 
 Bridge (21m.) over the Irt, passes through Gosforth 
 (25m.), [the road to Strands (3Jm) is on the right], and 
 then crosses over Calder Bridge (28m.), where post-horses 
 are kept [the Abbey ruins are 1 mile distant on the right] ; 
 reaches Egremont (32m.), and finally enters Whitehaven 
 (38m.). 
 
BIRTHWAITE. 129 
 
 Biethwaite is the railway station for Windermere, 
 both from London and Edinburgh and Carlisle. (Hotel, 
 Windermere). Fares by railway from London, 49s. 9d., 
 35s. M.j 21s. 8c?. On the arrival of tains, coaches leave 
 for Hawkskead and Coniston, for Ambleside (6m.) and 
 Keswick, and the mail to Cockermouth and (thence by rail) 
 to Whitehaven. The station Birthwaite is a pretty village 
 of houses, mainly built in domestic Gothic, and includes 
 S. Mary's Church (J. A. Anderson, P. C), a school for sons 
 of clergvmen, and villas lining the Bowness road. To the 
 left is Ellerthwaite (G. Gardner), and to the left Miln- 
 beck (Miss Watson). There are several places worthy of a 
 visit. A hill behind the hotel ; Elleray (J. Eastted), once 
 the residence of Professor Wilson, open by ticket on Mon- 
 days and Fridays, and reached by the main road, and thence 
 up a hill 700 feet high on the right ; High Street, the Pikes, 
 Bow Fell, Old Man, Fairfield, Loughrigg, and Bratha 
 Chapel are conspicuous objects. Orrest Head (J. Braith- 
 waite) was once the residence of I. Browne, boon companion 
 of vagrants, and the author of the local proverb, " That's 
 too big a boo for a young horse," uttered when a pert groom 
 shouted so vigorously as to make his horse rear and throw 
 him, with a fractured limb. 
 
 To Fairfield the route is by Bydal (6m.), Nab Scar 
 (7jm.) Fairfield (10m.), Nook End Bridge (14m.); the 
 circuit being 19^-m. To Grasmere, by Ambleside (5m.), 
 Botha Bridge (5Jm), Fox How (6m.), Fox Ghyl (6fm.), 
 Coat How (7im.), West's Station (9m.) ; the circuit being 
 18m. To Keswick (21m.) by Grasmere, and coach road over 
 Dunmail Pass ; 25m. by Grasmere, Easedale, and Borrodale ; 
 29m. by Langdale, Stake Pass, and Borrodale. To Rytial 
 Falls (7m.), through Ambleside and to Tiloerthtvaite (6jm.) 
 by Skelwith Bridge. These routes are available from 
 Bowness by adding lm. to Wansfell Pike (6m.), by Low- 
 wood Inn (3|m.), and Skelgill (5m.) ; circuit 12 m. 
 
 The distance to High Street is 9m. by Cook's House 
 
 (fm.) and Troutbeck 6m. ; to Hill Bell (6m.) by How and 
 
 Troutbeck 3m. ; to Neivby Bridge (8m.) by Bowness (l^m.), 
 
 and by returning by the ferry-house, 15m. ; the circuit is 
 
 K 
 
130 BOWNESS. 
 
 18m. To the Langdales, by Troutbeck Bridge (lm.), Low- 
 wood Hotel (3Jm.), and Skelwith Bridge (6jm.); the 
 circuit is 25m. To Troutbeck, by Cook's House, Troutbeck 
 Church (3Jni.), and Lowwood Hotel (7m.) ; the circuit 
 is 10^m. Pedestrians can take the part through Elleray 
 Wood, and join the Troutbeck road at S. Catharine's. 
 
 Bowkess. — Hotel Royal (so called in honour of Queen 
 Adelaide in 1840), Victoria, Crown. The chief part of 
 the lake is 6m. from Ambleside, and 9m. N. W. of Kendal, 
 and ljm. from Windermere station. It stands opposite 
 Belle Isle, "within the crescent of a pleasant bay." In 
 the neighbourhood are Belle Field (late Baroness de Stein- 
 berg) ; Storr's Hall, 2jm. (Rev. T. Staniforth) ; Burnside, 
 Gallfrere, and Craigfoot, ^m. (W. R. Gregg), on the road 
 to Windermere, built by Admiral Sir T. Pasley. The Post 
 Office is at the Royal Hotel, and letters arrive, 1 May — 
 31 October, at 20 min. to 7 p.m., and 7.15 p.m. ; from 
 October 31 — April 30, at \ to 8 p.m., and 7.15 p.m.; and 
 are despatched at 6.30 p.m., for Windermere; at 5.15 p.m., 
 for Keswick and Grasmere. 
 
 The Church of S. Martin (E. P. Stock, R.) 9 a long low 
 building, standing in a garth dotted with dark yews, con- 
 tains a stained glass window of the 14th century, brought 
 from Furness Abbey, representing the Crucifixion, St. 
 George and Catharine, four other saints, and heraldic 
 bearings. The tomb of Bishop Watson (July 1, 1816) is 
 in the churchyard below it. The Rectory House retains 
 its roomy porch, with a bench-table, and a round chimney 
 overgrown with ivy. The Queen Dowager stayed at the 
 Royal Hotel in 1840. The school-house was built by 
 J. Bolton, of Storr's Hall. Ullock's Hotel crowns a slope 
 of gardens full of evergreens and flowers, and fenced by 
 ivied walls. The Crown stands upon a hill. The prices 
 for breakfast from May to November are 2s. ; for dinner, 
 2s. 6d. ; for tea, Is 6d. ; a private sitting-room, 2s. 6d. a 
 day. Each of the two steamers calls six times in the day 
 at the quay. The houses are of the ordinary Westmore- 
 land type : each cottage and villa built of dark grey lime- 
 stone covered with rough- cast, with large slates and circular 
 
BOWNESS AMBLESIDE. 131 
 
 chimney-shafts, interspersed with gardens and orchards, 
 sheltered by screens of oak and sycamore. Cheerful Bow- 
 ness is the station for the regattas, and a little fleet of 
 pleasure-boats and pinnaces, with bright flags and awnings, 
 usually lies at anchor off its reedy bay ; in winter they fill 
 the picturesquely grouped and heath-covered boat-houses 
 along the shore. The tourist will find agreeable walks to 
 Storrs, Ferry-point, and Bell-man Ground, and obtain com- 
 manding views from a point Jm. on the road to Brant 
 Fell, which mounts between the Crown and the school- 
 house ; from Rayrigg and from Bisket How, a hill with a 
 crest of lichen-stained crags, about 300 yards from the 
 village. 
 
 Bowxess to Ambleside. — The tourist enters Eayrigg 
 woods fin. along the Ambleside road, having on his left 
 Rayrigg House (Major Jacobs), a low grey building nearly 
 level with the water, and for several years, till 1788, the 
 residence of W. Wilberforce. If a botanist, having stopped 
 to add some fine ferns by the wayside to his collection, he 
 then mounts by a steep hill to a level terrace. Over the 
 greenwoods are seen the lake and its islets stretching away 
 to the foot of Fairfield and Furness Fells, conspicuous from 
 their spiral larches and fragments of old woods ; among the 
 belt of mountains, the bare, rugged Pikes of Langdale, and 
 the blunted crest of Bow Fell, with Great End and Great 
 Gable between them ; Scawfell Pikes, faintly rise on the 
 left, having Coniston, Old Man, and Loughrigg Fell on 
 either side, and Hard Knott and Brown Wrynose below. 
 Calgarth woods and Wray Castle are prominent objects. 
 The entire extent of the lake from the Bratha to the Beacon 
 is seen from Millar Ground. The tourist now gains the 
 Kendal and Ambleside road at Cook's House (9m. from 
 Kendal), and follows the left-hand road. [By taking a turn 
 to the right the Kendal road may be followed for lm., 
 and on the left will be seen the S. Catharine's (Earl of 
 Bradford) and Elleray, embosomed in woods; and near 
 Our3t Head gate, a narrow lane branches off to Bowness, 
 l^m. distant.] Troutbeck Bridge, 3m., and Ibbot's Holm 
 (S. Taylor) are next passed [a road along the west bank 
 
 K 2 
 
132 LOWWOOD INN — HIGH STREET. 
 
 of the beck leads to Troutbeck village, l|in.], and skirting 
 the lake within view of Calgartli (T. Swinburn), set in 
 woods like a forest, but broken into glades and open 
 uplands ; Ecclesrigg (L. Watson) on the left, and Holbeck 
 Cottage (Miss Meyer). 
 
 Lowwood Inn (2|m.) appears, near which is Dove's 
 Nest on the wooded . slope of Wansfeil (P. P. Green), in 
 1830 the residence of Mrs. Hemans, who here found peace, 
 and from her garden bower, formed of the sweetbriar and 
 wild rose, used to gaze over " lovely Windermere, show- 
 ing like another sky, so truly was every summer cloud and 
 tint of azure pictured in its transparent mirror." Wansfeil 
 Holm (Rev. T. Hornby) is seen on the left ; across the lake 
 appear Croft Lodge (T. Holme), under Loughrigg Fell ; 
 Bratha Chapel, at the mouth of Langdale, built by Mr. 
 Redmayne, of Bratha House ; and Wray Castle (J. Dawson). 
 The tourist passes Waterhead (T. Jackson) and its pier, 
 where the steamers stop, and an omnibus is ready to pro- 
 ceed to Grasmere and to Ambleside (lm.). Waterside 
 (W. Newton) is seen on the left. The whole road is one 
 of extreme beauty and variety ; sometimes winding through 
 woods, now, terrace-like, overlooking the lake ; again leading 
 under green slopes to the right, and occasionally crossed 
 by a brawling little stream ; or in places overhung by the 
 brown and purple fells, which rise up wilder and wilder 
 into rocks seamed by precipices among which the falcons 
 build. 
 
 To High Steeet. — The tourist proceeds to Troutbeck, 
 and follows the road to the Park Quarries on the east side 
 of the valley ; he then at the foot of Blue Ghyl mounts the 
 hill slightly inclining to the left, until he reaches Scots' 
 Pake, where the Highlanders in 1715 attempted to enter 
 the dale. On surmounting the ridge he then breasts Thorn- 
 thwaite Crag, and turning over its right shoulder, passes by 
 a deliciously cool stream, and thence up a green slope to 
 the summit of High Street. 
 
 Peehy Hotel stands under a group of tall sycamores, 
 and below a well-wooded ridge, having a pebbly, little beach 
 before it. The tourist has from this view the option of 
 
FERRY HOTEL LOWWOOD HOTEL. 133 
 
 visiting' all places in the vicinity of Coniston and Winder- 
 mere. The view from the Station Pleasure-house, though 
 partially interrupted by plantations of larches, is fine, 
 commanding the very deep dale of Troutbeck between 
 High Street and Hill Bell, the green hill of Apple- 
 thwaite, the Fells and Bydal Head, with the opposite 
 hills undulating and dropping gently down to the wooded 
 shores. From the hill above GJraythwaite the landscape 
 embraces also Rawlinson's Nab or promontory on this 
 bank, and Storr's Hall gleaming out between a glade ; 
 Columnar joints of crinoeidea are found at the ferry. The 
 distance from the ferry to Ambleside by water is 7m. ; 
 passing Belle Grange (2£m.) to the landing-place on 
 Belle Isle, which covers 30 acres (fm.) ; the circuit of the 
 island is IJm., and from the pier to Waterhead 4Jm. for 
 Ambleside. The island, station, and Harrow Slack form a 
 beautiful group from the Lily of the Valley Holme. In 
 1G35 a whole marriage party, including fifty persons, with 
 the bridegroom, a yeoman of Sawrey, and the bride, a 
 young girl of Sawrey, was drowned here on their return 
 from Hawkshead Church. According to the legend, one 
 wild and stormy night, a voice hailed the boatman here 
 from the Nab, who obeyed the call, but returned a raving 
 maniac. Many a weird shout cried for a boat whenever 
 the winds were high and the lake was boisterous, but no 
 ferryman would ever give it heed. At mass, on the fol- 
 lowing Christmas Eve, a monk of Furness, the priest of 
 S. Mary's Chapel on our Lady's Holme, laid the unquiet 
 spirit, who was known as the crier of Claife, confining him 
 thenceforth in the quarry of the Ferry Wood, where at 
 times during tempests the terrible cry is still heard, and 
 where neither hunted fox nor eager hound will penetrate 
 under the shadow of the dark trees. 
 
 Loavwood Hotel is lm. from the head of Winder- 
 mere, and 2m. S.E. of Ambleside, and in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of very beautiful walks, especially up the 
 steep and winding banks of the Troutbeck. The grounds 
 command a fine view of the mountains (reckoning from 
 N. to S.). Ullescarth, Loughrigg Fell, Easedale Head, 
 k 3 
 
134 EXCURSIONS FEOM LOWWOOD PIOTEL. 
 
 Silver How, Ling-moor, High Raise, Pavey Ark, Langdale 
 Pikes, the Stake Pass, Glaramara, Great End, Hanging 
 Knots, Bow Fell, Scawfell Pikes, Crinkle Crags, overtop- 
 ping Bliscoe Pike, Skelwith, Wetherham, Wrynose, Scars, 
 Coniston Old Man, and Walna Scar, hanging woods, 
 pastures, and cultivated land enrich the slopes and levels 
 near the lake. The geologist will find here corals, trilobites, 
 brachiopoda, and tentaculites. Excursions may be made 
 to Ambleside, (4jm.) by water, by Pool-wyke-bay (Ifm.), 
 Bratha mouth (lm.) to Waterhead landing (fm.) or by 
 Holme Point (jm.) to the landing (lim.), from which Am- 
 bleside is (fm.) distant ; to Skelgill, a circuit of (4Jm.) ; by 
 Lowfold(lim.), Skelgill (2fm.), Low Skelgill (3m.), Trout- 
 beck road (3Jm.) return (lm.) ; to Coniston ; to Langdale ; 
 to Ullesivater by Kirkstone Pass, or to Trouibeck ; for horse- 
 men taking the first road to the left, guide post (2m.) ; Ap- 
 plethwaite How (2|m.), Cook's House, or Winlass How, 
 (5jm) return (8m.), or to Ambleside by land, and then up 
 Stock Ghyl road to the guide post, Kirkstone (5 Jm), Trout- 
 beck (10m.), return (12m.) ; or to Ambleside, Low Fold, 
 Skelgill, and Low Skelgill, (4Jm.) ; or by Troutbeck and 
 Applethwaite to Bowness (7jm.). From the hill (lm.) 
 from the hotel there is a superb view of the lake; |m. further 
 Troutbeck is reached, a cluster of five scattered hamlets ljm. 
 long, with its cottages placed under sycamore, oak, and ash 
 trees, in little gardens, in fruitful orchards, or perched on 
 rocky knolls, 3^m. W. of Ambleside, 4 N. of Bowness, and 
 (10m.) S. of Kendal. Simple and primitive as the village, a 
 cluster of hamlets 1 Jm. long looks, the hereditary u states- 
 men," are such lovers of lawsuits, that many a rough footpath 
 and lonely stile has cost several hundred pounds in these fre- 
 quent and discreditable disputes. They have inherited this 
 independent spirit from traditionary influences -, their once 
 forest-covered valley was a refuge from the Roman, a fastness 
 from the Saxon, and after forming the hunting-ground of a 
 Norman lord, was partitioned among the dalesmen. The road 
 from Winlass How, on the E. side of the Beck by the 
 How (Capt. Wilson, R.N.) is the direct way from Bowness. 
 Near Jesus Church, Troutbeck bridge,, built 1562; and at 
 
WTNDEBMEEE, 135 
 
 the Sim (3m.) the Kendal and Ambleside road coming- 
 through Ings, is joined, and follows the windings of the 
 stream, now flowing between high and rugged rocks, now 
 among woodlands, and sometimes through green pastures. 
 The road from Lowwood and Ambleside, and that skirting 
 the west bank of the Beck which joins the eastern road 
 lm. X. of Troutbeck bridge, unite at the west side 
 Hni. X. of the Sun; and then are continued till they 
 meet the Ambleside and Paterdale roads of Kirkstone Pass. 
 The valley was the birthplace of Hogarth's father. From 
 the neat inn " the Mortal Man," so called from the first 
 words of a quatrain on a long lost signboard, long since 
 removed to Cartmel, painted by Ibbotson, and recommend- 
 ing Birkett's ale (Jm. further), the road reaches the valley 
 head (5Jm.) above Troutbeck tongue, where on the N.E. 
 it is closed in by the hills of Kentmere, High Street, 
 Yoke, Thornthwaite Crag, Yorke, Froswick, and Hill Bell. 
 The tourist, if in a carriage, may, after an ascent of lm., 
 proceed to Paterdale, by crossing the Kirkstone Pass, and 
 joining the Ambleside and Kendal road; the pedestrian 
 can climb Woundale by a steep green lane, behind some 
 cottages, and, on sighting the hills to W., diverge through 
 Stockdale by Grove Farm, and so reach Ambleside, 3m. 
 beyond. The distance to Hawkskead by ferry is 9m., to 
 Bowness 4m., and to Newby Bridge, 12m., Keivby Bridge 
 (Swan) to Cartmel 5m., to Broughton 10m. 
 
 Wixdeeiieee. — " Here might the weary heart dream it- 
 self away and find the freshness of the springtime of the 
 spirit return upon it:" so said L.E.L. of this beautiful 
 lake ; the western and part of its eastern shores belong to 
 Lancashire ; the islands are claimed by Westmoreland. It 
 is the largest of the English lakes, being 10m. long, and 
 above a mile in its widest part ; its ordinary narrowness has 
 been the origin of its name of the " river lake." The 
 greatest depth is found opposite Ecclesrigg Crag. The 
 sandy Bratha, which rises in Dunmail Raise and the moun- 
 tains between Langdale and Borrodale, and the rocky 
 Hotha, flowing from Elterwater by Rydal Mount and the 
 vale of Ambleside unite lm. above the lake head at Three - 
 K 4 
 
136 WINDERMERE. 
 
 foot Brander below Clapper-gate. It receives also small 
 tributaries from Troutbeck, Esthwaite Water, and Bletbam 
 Tarn on either shore, and finds an outlet by the Leven at 
 Morecombe Bay, into the Irish Sea. The lake, a vast 
 mirror set in a huge rocky frame, " one smooth expanse of 
 silver light," consists of two large reaches divided by a 
 slender neck of land above the ferry, and lm. below Bow- 
 ness, the lowermost, the longer and straighter, is scarcely in 
 any part above half a mile in breadth, and at the foot, being 
 contracted between shores covered with forest trees, offers 
 views of soft beauty ; the uppermost far exceeds their gran- 
 deur and effect, having frequent bays and headlands, and 
 loftier mountains, some of dark slate colour, and some well 
 wooded. The gradual change is very striking from a 
 rugged, dreary, and tame country such as the old Kendal 
 road traverses, to the gradually increasing majesty and 
 picturesqueness of the scenery of Windermere, in proceed- 
 ing northward, exceeding, as it does, every other lake in 
 its cheerful aspect, from its villas, cottages, groves, coppices 
 and cornfields, while an amphitheatre of lofty hills round 
 Ambleside goes far to rival their sterner beauty. The white- 
 sailed boats, and the movements of the water-fowl, with 
 which the lake abounds, rising, circling, sinking on the 
 water or stooping on some crag, lend additional animation 
 to the scene. In the flush of early morning, when the sun 
 has not reached the surface, the lake gives reflections of 
 pale purplish blue, but in the growing light, ripples, rosy 
 and full of smiles with a^fairylike beauty ; a tenderness and 
 glory is brought out by the breaking day over the moun- 
 tains, strangely in contrast to the frowning aspect which 
 they put on under the glare of noon. Seen under a setting 
 sun, with mountains here veiled in clouds, there brilliantly 
 illuminated by the slanting rays, soaring aloft in bold out- 
 lines, now starting up into a conical peak, there softly 
 rounded into a curve, and all forming a rugged framework 
 to the picture, the lake appears to the highest advantage. 
 Various colours and shifting lights spread over it, deep and 
 gloomy under the shadows of the hills, or in the gloomy re- 
 cesses of a wooded dell ; in the middle distance, of a profound 
 
W1NDEEMEHE. 137 
 
 blue, studded with green islets, and where it shallows 
 closer to the shore, glittering with a pleasant golden hue, 
 while its long reaches are lit up with the rich reflection of 
 the glowing sun. The angler will find the mere teeming 
 with pike, trout, and char, the latter in perfection from 
 July to October j in November and December the trout go 
 up the Rotha, while the case or silver char prefer the 
 Bratha 5 the red or golden char does not leave the lake. The 
 char is supposed to have been introduced by the Romans. 
 
 The chief centres of observation chosen by tiavellers are 
 Ambleside (lm. above the lake head) ; Boivness on the 
 E. shore, in the centre of the lake ; Ferry Hotel on the 
 W« shore, opposite Bowness ; Low wood Inn, l^m. from 
 lake head, on the N.E. shore, on a pretty bay; Swan 
 Hotel, Newby Bridge, at the southern foot of the lake. The 
 road is about 26m. round ; steamers ply daily up and down 
 the lake. How-boats, to be obtained at Bowness, Water- 
 head, and Lowwood, are charged Is. by the hour. The 
 regatta from Lowwood and the Ferry Inn occurs in Septem- 
 ber. The lake is not without its traditions. In 710 Osrid, the 
 boy king of Northumberland, was here assassinated by Conrid 
 and Osric ; and Ethred, in 791, slew the princes Elf and 
 Edwyn. Lady Holm Chapel was the object of many a 
 pilgrimage 5 on the site of the round, dome-covered, wide 
 porticoed house of Belle Isle (H. Curweh), built by English, 
 1776, of stones of amazing size, among woods of yew, thorn, 
 pine, plane, and chestnut, were found pieces of armour and 
 the foundations of an earlier building, once the residence of 
 the Royalist Colonel Philipson of Calgarth, in which his 
 brother, a majorof cavaliers, known as Robin theDevil, with- 
 stood the siege of a Roimdhead, one Briggs of Kendal, until 
 the colonel came to his release : his attempt at revenge on his 
 parliamentarian enemy has been already related. At S tor's 
 Hall, built by Sir J. Legard, and Colonel Bolton, who, in 
 August 1825, here entertained Canning, Scott, Wordsworth, 
 Southey, and Wilson, and the latter presided over a 
 brilliant regatta on the last day of the hospitalities, which 
 is still remembered. Huskisson was also a frequent guest 
 here, Wilberforcelived at Rayrigg, Mrs. Hemans at Dove Nest, 
 
138 CONISTON LAKE. 
 
 and T. Hamilton, author of Cyril Thornton, at Elleray, and 
 without a library, Bishop Watson at Calgarth, who greatly 
 promoted the plantations, have resided on these shores. Cal- 
 garth was said to be haunted by two spirits, the guardians 
 of two sculls which could not be broken, and if removed 
 from a particular window, were immediately replaced by 
 these unearthly guests. The first steamer, the Dragon-fly, 
 was established on the lake in 1850. 
 
 CONISTON. 
 
 Coniston Lake or Thuestan Water (New Inn, Water- 
 head) between the Furness Fells, 105 feet above the level 
 of the sea, is 6m. by Jm., and 106 feet deep. It is fed by 
 streams from the Old Man, Yewdale, and Tilberthwaite. 
 At the southern end are low hills, at the head is a belt of 
 mountains, with Old Man and Wetheram conspicuous 
 among them. The char (alpine salmon) are the finest in 
 the country j they are found also in Buttermere, Crummock 
 Ulleswater, Wastwater, and Windermere ; trout also 
 abound here ; by the eastern shore are two islands, Knott's 
 Island, dark with pines, and Peel Island. The lake is diver- 
 sified by the passage of boats carrying down cargoes of slate, 
 which is carted off to Ulverston. On the E. shore is Tent- 
 Lodge, (If m. from the inn,) once the residence of Tennyson, 
 which derived its name from the tent pitched on the site by 
 the linguist, and friend of Klopstock, Charlotte Smith, 
 when dying, in order that she might enjoy th^ scene to the 
 last. On the same side are Coniston Bank, (W. Bradshaw,) 
 where there is a good view from the adjoining fields : Brant- 
 wood (Mrs. Copley,) and Water Park ; on the W. side 
 are Church Coniston and Torver ; the two shore roads unite 
 at Waterhead, and at the foot of the lake, at Blawith. The 
 woods of Town End adjoin Tent Lodge. The Coniston Hall 
 of the Flemings, now an ivied farm-house, near Church — 
 Coniston, a very picturesque village, (4m. S.W., of Hawks- 
 head,) retains the tall round chimneys of the 15th cen- 
 tury and the hall, used as a bam, with its screens and 
 
CONISTON LAKE. 139 
 
 buttery. The road runs between the lake and Brantwood ; 
 in the grounds is Wordsworth's seat, which commands the 
 best view of the lake, with the sparkling waters, fertile 
 slope, clumps of trees and tall hedgerows, with houses, 
 black, white, and grey, peeping out at intervals. In the 
 background are Old Man, Brier Fell, High Carr, Oakrigg, 
 Wetheream, Yewdale Crag, and the niany-curyed Walna 
 Scar, with their waterfalls glittering like frozen snow. Pass- 
 ing the woods of Waterpark, and through Nibthwaite, the 
 road lies along the yale of the Crake, the outlet of the lake, 
 and Water-yate commands the lake for an extent of 6m. 
 to Waterhead, backed by dark rocks and moorlands, with 
 the woods of Monk Coniston : it then passes by grey ridges 
 of brown heath and crags, and oyer the black beck of 
 Toryer, through the farmyard of Hern Hall, with the 
 mountains finely rising on the yiew, through Toryer and the 
 old deer park of Coniston Hall, and by Parkgate to the inn. 
 Old Fred, who piloted Nelson's fleet into Copenhagen, liyed 
 in the village. A steam-gondola was established in 1860. 
 
 The lake may be reached from Ulverston by road, (16m.), 
 proceeding by the estuary of the Leven to Penny Bridge, 
 (3Jm.), (where the Leven from Windermere, and the 
 Crake from Coniston unite,) passing on the right Penny 
 Bridge, (J. P. Machell,) and Bridge Field, (J. Penny). 
 The route lies through a narrow valley walled in by brown 
 heathery hills with farm-houses scattered alono* their slopes ; 
 on the left is the ancient Lowick Hall, now a farm-house ; at 
 certain points the Lake and Furness Fells, planted on their 
 west sides with larch and fir come into sight. Crossing the 
 Crake at Lowick Bridge, (6m.), and passing Nibthwaite at 
 the foot of the lake, (8m.), with Water Park, (B. Harrison,) 
 and Torver Fells on the left, the tourist follows the E. 
 shore of the lake, and passing Waterhead House, (J. Mar- 
 shall), arrives at the New Inn, Waterhead. Bowness, by 
 the Ferry, is (9m.) Church Coniston (lm.), Hawkskead (&m.\ 
 Kendal (17m.), and Newby Bridge (9m.) distant. The routes 
 to be recommended are to Ambleside, (8m.), by direct road ; 
 or, by carriage road to Newfield, (17m.), by Church Conis- 
 ton, Torver, (3|m.), Broughton, (10|-m.), Dudclon Bridge, 
 
140 ROUTES FROM CONISTOX. 
 
 (lljm.), UlphaKirk, (lorn.) ; or by a route of 12^-m., by di- 
 verging at a road 3ni. beyond Torver, and going by Brougk- 
 ton Mills, (8Jm.) From Ulpha Kirk, by taking a road over 
 the moors to Eskdale, on horse or a-foot, the tourist 
 may visit Stanley Ghyl, (4m. ), and Birker Force, (6m.); and 
 then crossing Birker moor, and proceeding up Eskdale and 
 over Hard Knott and Wrynose, reach Ambleside, (12m.), 
 but he must not fail to observe Sunken Church, a Druidical 
 circle, ^-m. on the left of the ascent from the vale of Duddon. 
 The pedestrian or horseman may also reach Seathwaite, 
 (6m.) Newfield, and the Yale of Duddon by a wild, steep 
 and undulating moor path over Waina Scar. On the road 
 to Broughton, the tourist, near Kirkhouse, will obtain a view 
 of a scene of wild grandeur ; on the left the immense summit 
 of Old Man, backed by Long Scar and Wetherham, in front 
 the deep passes of Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, and on the 
 right the lake and wooded hills beyond. In a quarry by 
 the road-side from Coniston Waterhead to a point, 2m. 
 from Coniston, the geologist will find fossils of the 
 middle slates, trilobites, tentaculites, corals, brachio- 
 poda, isotelus gigas, Orthis grandis, 0. nabellulum, and 
 chain coral. Another route for carriages is by Hawks- 
 head round Esthwaite Water, passing on the right Esth- 
 waite Lodge, (Mrs. Beck,) Sawrey, (on the left is Lake 
 Field,) thence to the Ferry-house and through Bownes3. 
 To proceed to the Langdales, the tourist passes through Yew- 
 dale, a mountain gorge opening into a narrow valley, under 
 the stupendous and savage range of Yewdale Crags, and 
 along the vale of Tilberthwaite, where the roads diverge 
 severally to Hawkshead and Ambleside, and the Fells, 
 from the number of quarries, appear like a series of blue 
 slates. He then follows a steep, rugged track over a hill 
 on the left, and descends into Little Langdale and West- 
 moreland, at Bridge End. Crossing the valley, he ascends 
 the slack or defile that leads to Great Langdale, and skirts 
 Blea Tarn, where, under the fir and larch woods, the recluse 
 of Wordsworth's " Excursion " was wont to muse. On de- 
 scending the hill into Langdale, the Two Pikes rise steeply 
 in front, one with a broad rocky head, Harrison Stickle ; the 
 
ESTHWAITE WATER HAWKSHEAD. 141 
 
 other, thrusting up a slender conical shaft of hare rock, is 
 Pikes' Stickle. On the left is Bow Fell, and Great Cove 
 hedging in the narrow and almost treeless valley, which 
 like a green thread is soon lost among the harren ravines 
 at its head. A walk of If hours from Style End, (9m.), 
 would suffice to place the pedestrian on the top of Bow 
 Fell, from which he must descend by Eskhause, keeping 
 to the left, and then going down into Langdale by the 
 steep and savage Ros Ghyl. It is a ride of 10m., down 
 Langdale and past Elterwater, to Ambleside, (32m.). From 
 Eskhause there is a good view of Derwentwater. 
 
 Esthwaite Water. — The scene of Wordsworth's skat- 
 ing description, 198 feet above the sea, 2 by Jm., and 80 
 feet deep, is parted by promontories projecting from the 
 west shore, and lies between Coniston Lake and Windermere. 
 Perch, trout, pike, and eels abound in it. At the north 
 end, in a pool called Priest's Pot, where one of the monks 
 of Furness was drowned, is a floating island covered with 
 trees, which the winds sway from side to side. Cunsey 
 Beck flows from the lake into Windermere. The views 
 towards Ambleside are fine. Proceeding to Ferry-house, 
 (7m.), the tourist passes Lakebank, Lakefield, (J. K. Og- 
 den,) Sawrey and Scotch gate (road), so called because the 
 Highlanders of Prince Charles were expected to pass it in 
 1745, and the inhabitants retired to a hiding-place. 
 
 Hawkshead, at the head of Esthwaite Water, (Red 
 Lion), (pop. 2283), is 5m. S.W". from Ambleside, 6m. 
 W. of Bowness, 13m. *W. from Kendal, 16m. from Ulver- 
 ston, 13m. E. of Broughton. In S. Michael's Church, 
 originally Norman, but modernised 1578 and in the time 
 of Charles L, Elizabeth Smith was buried. There are some 
 brasses, and an altar-tomb with effigies of the parents of 
 Archbishop Sandys. The old court-house of the abbots of 
 Fumess remains. At the Grammar School, foimded 1585, by 
 Archbishop Sandys, Dr. King, Sir F. Pollock, Lord Abin- 
 ger, W. Wordsworth, and his brother, the Master of 
 Trinity College, Cambridge, were educated. Post office ; 
 letters arrive from Kendal 8*30 a.m., are despatched 4*45 
 p.m. The coach, Lady of the Lake, rims to Ambleside. 
 
142 ROUTES FROM CONISTON. 
 
 To ascend the Old Man, (High Stony Rock,) the tour- 
 ist leaves the lake, the broad ranges of the hills, and the 
 blue fells of Lancashire behind him, and passes tracks of 
 wheels that lead to the copper mines, and groups of busy 
 peat-cutters ; turning to the right by an old slate quarry, 
 under the precipitous and saw-like Dhu (black) Crag, 
 (lm.) ; (there is another path from Church Coniston 
 across the common and by the copper-mine road, along 
 the little tree-shaded stream of Church Beck, which he 
 crosses by a foot-bridge, Q-m.), and turns to the westward 
 by Boon Beck ; or he may follow the line of Walna Scar, 
 S.E., and go up by Gaitswater.) He then commences 
 the ascent of the mountain, the highest range of Coniston 
 Fell, at the N.W. angle of the lake, a hill of fine roof- 
 ing slate, 2632 feet high. In the wild, rugged hollow 
 on the W. lies the Gate Tarn, an oval of half a mile in 
 circuit, containing trout, and overhung by precipices, "in 
 the chasms of which foxes abound. The Torver stream flows 
 out of its rocky cup down to Coniston. The tourist can 
 pass the mines, said to have been worked by the Britons 
 and the Romans, up a rough steep cart road, skirting some 
 more elevated works, called, after a successful Irish adven- 
 turer, Paddy End, and a high precipice called Kernel End, 
 where a pair of ravens have continued to build in contempt 
 of the shepherds' guns. In the face of the rock over 
 Paddy End is a deep long fissure called Simon's Nick, in 
 memory of another discoverer, who, overcome by insidious 
 draughts at — De Quincy's residence*, when he had vainly 
 attempted to visit Wordsworth, — the Black Bull, having 
 rashly divulged the secret that his luck was owing to the 
 favour of the fairies, became unfortunate, and was finally 
 killed by an explosion while blasting the rock. The pedes- 
 trian then reaches the lip of Lever's-water, (lm. round,) 
 lying under steep green slopes and rocky cliffs, and pass- 
 ing by a highway on the hill-side west of the tarn, and 
 nearly imder the precipice of Oak rigg, follows a steep 
 ascent on the left along a water-course, crosses Ghyl cove, 
 and rises over Bramfell to the summit. 
 
 
ROUTES FROM CONISTON. 143 
 
 The copper mines are in a hollo w, one mile up, on the 
 east side, the ore* being dug out in the form of pyrites. 
 Some of the shafts are 600 feet deep, the chambers enter- 
 ing about half a mile into the mountain, on which, besides 
 slate, granite and syenitic boulders are found ; and from 
 the base is seen a narrow ledge of transitional limestone. 
 From the summit of the Man the tourist will see the slate 
 quarries on the east side, with the sheds round the quarries, 
 Devocke Water on the west of Stoneside, containing deli- 
 cate trout, brought, it is said, from Italy centuries ago by the 
 monks of Furness ; Lowwater, 632 feet below the crest of 
 the hill, and 2000 feet above the sea ; under Buckbarrow 
 crags a haimt of foxes and a trap for sheep, who can be 
 rescued only by their keepers going down slung by ropes ; 
 Blencathra and Helvellyn, and by walking half a mile to 
 the N.W. Seathwaite Tarn under Dhu Crag ; Blind Tarn 
 on the S., Loweswater in a hollow on the N.E., Lever's- 
 water, Wetherlain, and Tilberthwaite Fell, Stickle Tarn, 
 under the perpendicular front of Pavey Ark, and Langdale 
 Pikes, Skiddaw to the N., and Griesdale Pass; to the 
 right are Kirkstone Pass, Fairfield, High St., Hill Bell, 
 Wansfell, with Ambleside crouching beneath it; Win- 
 dermere and Coniston are on the E. with Sawrey and Es- 
 thwaite Water intervening ; Ingleborough, and its atten- 
 dant hills in Yorkshire, Snowdon in Wales, over the glis- 
 tening sands of the Duddon estuary, Fleetwood and 
 Lancaster on its hill over Leven mouth, have been dis- 
 cerned on a favourable day. To the right of Dhu 
 Crag, the peak of Birk Fell, the Screes above W^astwater, 
 Scaw Fell, Bow Fell, Great Gable and Great End, with 
 Haycocks and Pillar between the Screes, and Scaw Fell 
 far off; in the S.W X . Black Combe over Millom Park 
 and Walney Isle ; the Irish Sea, the Isle of Man ; to the 
 S.E. and S., Morecambe Bay, the headland of Furness and 
 Cartmel. There are three tarns on the summit — Lowes- 
 water; Gateswater at the foot of Low Crag; and Lever's- 
 water, in the hollow between Old Man and Wether- 
 lam. The tourist can return by the ridge of black 
 
144 KENDAL. 
 
 Wetherlam, through. Tilberthwaite, grey heathery Yew- 
 dale, under Raven Crag, or N.W. by Coekley Beck into 
 Seathwaite. 
 
 KENDAL 
 
 Is 2m. from Oxenholme junction, 8m. from Windermere. 
 (Hotels ; King's Arms, Crown, Commercial) ; omnibuses to 
 all the trains. Pop. 11,829. A telegraph station. There 
 is a daily coach to Cockermouth. Market day, Saturday. 
 
 " A straggling burgh, of ancient charter proud, 
 And dignified by battlements and towers 
 Of a stern castle, mouldering on the brow 
 Of a green hill." 
 
 Kirkby Kendal, the church-town of the dale of the 
 Ken, the most important town and the Halifax of West- 
 moreland, consists of two main streets lying north and south, 
 from which alleys and lanes diverge, with houses, as Gray 
 wrote in 1769, as if they were " out in a country dance, 
 back to back, corner to corner, some up hill, some down hill, 
 without intent or meaning." The white walls of limestone 
 from Kendal Fell contrast well with the tall green Lom- 
 bardy poplars, a distinctive feature in the landscape, like 
 leafy spires. Eocky hills of considerable height encom- 
 pass the quaint, old-fashioned, but clean and well luiilt town, 
 which faces the south, and overlooks a valley rich in orchards, 
 over which Hill Bell and Pater Fell are prominent. The 
 Carlisle and Whitehaven roads here form a junction. 
 Before this turnpike road was formed in 1752, 345 pack- 
 horses travelled through the town weekly, bringing in pro- 
 visions and merchandise, besides two waggons twice a 
 week from Lancaster, two or three carts from Milnthorpe, 
 and 26 every six weeks from Glasgow. A stage waggon to 
 London was started in 1757, and the first postchaise established 
 1754. A canal, 33m. long, was opened in 1819, and the 
 passenger boats plied on it at the rate of 10m. an hour, 
 the fares being Is. 6cl and 2s. to Lancaster. These boats 
 
KENDAL. 145 
 
 were suspended by steamers in July, 1840. The earldom 
 of Kendal lias been borne by the Bedfords 1414-35 ; the 
 Somersets 1443-4 ; the Duke of Cumberland 1689-1708 ; 
 and according* to some authors by J. de Foix 1446 and Prince 
 Charles Stuart 1666. The infamous Schulemberg was 
 created duchess 1719-43, and the title Baron Kendal borne 
 by the family of Lonsdale 1784-1802 • the barony of Parr of 
 Kendal 1538, exists in the Northampton family. The rapid 
 riyer Ken, which giyes name to the dale, is spanned by three 
 stone bridges; dried and tanned hides, and snow-white 
 linen spread by the laundresses, coyer either bank ; and the 
 stream is rendered dusky by the hanks of worsted yarn, 
 cleansed in it by the manufacturers of woollen goods, a 
 trade established here by J. Kemp, a Fleming, in 1331, and 
 celebrated by writers of the 17th century. Falstaff's three 
 knaves, the Sherwood foresters, and the gallant archers at 
 Flodden, all wore Kendal green, a green drugget, and the 
 trade was favoured by statute. Limestone is also quarried 
 and polished for chimneypieces and decorative work. 
 Drunken Barnaby alludes to the lack of a mayor by 
 Kendal, an omission which was rectified in the reign of 
 James I. 
 
 The town contains Abbot's Hall, once the residence of 
 the Abbots of S. Mary's, York ; the "White Hall, Lowther 
 Street, 148 ft. by 37, built 1826 by Webster ; Pennington's 
 Grammar School, in which Shaw, the Eastern traveller, 
 E. Chambers, the first author of an English encyclopaedia, 
 and Bishops Law and Potter, were educated • and the Natural 
 History and Scientific Society's Museum, containing local 
 specimens of interest, such as tradesmen's draft-tokens, etc. 
 Hudson and Wilson, the botanists, Dean Potter and Gr. 
 W^atson, were natives. James I. was at Kendal in 1617, 
 and the army of the Stuarts halted here in 1715, and Dec. 
 16, 1745. Romney, the painter, died here, 1802. Holy 
 Trinity Church, in Kirkland, 180 feet by 99, comprises a 
 tower 72 feet high, and a nave and chancel of 9 bays, with 
 four aisles (as at Manchester, Abingdon, and Chichester), 
 mainly Early English, with a Late Perpendicular clerestory ; 
 a fair wood ceiling and a little screen work to the nave and 
 L 
 
146 KENDAL CASTLE. 
 
 west bay of the chancel. At the east end are four chan- 
 tries of the Parrs, Bellinghams, and Stricklands, dedi- 
 cated to the Holy Trinity, SS. Mary, Anthony and 
 A' Becket. The tower contains eight bells. There is a brass 
 dated 1577, and the monument of a Strickland 1656. 
 Down the nave the cavalier, Major Philipson, rode during 
 Divine service to take vengeance on his enemy, who had 
 besieged his house on Belle Isle, Windermere ; his search 
 was vain, but, in attempting to pass under the aisle doors 
 he was struck down and stunned by a blow against the 
 arch, and was only extricated by the courage of his men. 
 Scott transfers this incident to Bertram, in "Bokeby." The 
 Major's helmet still hangs upon the wail. S. George's, 
 Stramond Gate, was built 1831, and S. Thomas's, Strick- 
 land Gate, in 1837. 
 
 The Castle Q-ni.), once the property of the Norman 
 Knight Sir Ivo de Taillebois, was probably begun in the 
 early part of the 13th century, and was afterwards held by 
 the Le Brees, Boss, and Parrs, one of whom, Queen 
 Catherine, consort of Henry VIII., was born here. It 
 stands on a green hill, composed of boulders and diluvial 
 earth, black and sandy. The castle fell into ruin in 1565. 
 It occupies an oval knoll on the E. of the town, com- 
 manding good views to the N. and S.E. Part of the 
 keep remains, and two round towers ; a curtain wall and 
 deep fosse bear witness to its former strength. The fine 
 gatehouse is of the 15th century. On the W. side of the 
 town is Castle Law Hill (used for assemblies of justices by 
 the Lanons), encircled by a deep fosse, and crowned by two 
 bastions on the E., and with an obelisk erected 1788, as- a 
 centenary memorial of the revolution of 1688. Water 
 Crook, so called from a bend in the river (lm. S.), was 
 the site of the Roman station Concangium, probably a 
 watch camp in connection with the military posts of 
 Ambleside and Overborough. On the adjoining farm are 
 some Roman relics. Middleton Hall (at Burnside, 2m. 
 N.W.), now mostly in ruins, was a fine house of the 
 15th century, built round a court with a gatehouse j a hall, 
 with a kitchen at the lower end, and a staircase, a parlour 
 
BENSON KNOTT UNDERBARROW ARNSIDE. 147 
 
 and a salon over it containing a good fireplace at the upper 
 end. Fossils of the middle slate abound on Brigsteer and 
 Benson Knot. 
 
 SHELLS, 
 
 On Kendal Fell. — Helix nemoralis. H. concinna, H. caperata. H. 
 ericetorum ; Zonites rotundatus, Z umbilicatus ; Bulimus obscurus ; 
 Azeca tridens ; Pupa umbilicata, P. juniperi, P. marginata ; Vertigo 
 pygmtea, V. edentulata, V. alpestris ; Clausilia bidens. On Benson 
 Knot. — Valletia lacustris. A t Bowness. — Balea perversa. In 
 Windermere. — Amphipeplea glutinosa and Physa fontinalis. In 
 Brigsteer Moss. — Cyclas cornea, Pisidium pusillum ; Planorbis albus, 
 P. vortex, P. marginatus, P. carinatus, P. spirorbis; Bithinia tenta- 
 culata; Valvata cristata, V. piscinalis. 
 
 Benson Knott, 1098 feet above the level of the sea, 
 rises at a distance of 2 m. on the N.E. of the town. The 
 ascent is fatiguing. 
 
 A walk round Kendal Fell, on the W., by Brigsteer 
 village at its southern end, offers some interest to the 
 geologist by cuttings through the silurian and limestone 
 beds, land shells, and shells and fossils of the carboniferous 
 limestone abound on Underbarrow, and travelling boulders of 
 greenstone are scattered over the Fell. 
 
 Underb arrow [Scout Scar] l^m. W. an escarpment 
 of limestone rock terminating an , open moor, overlooks 
 the vale of the Kent, extending to the Irish Sea ; and 
 the view embraces hill and plain, the gTeen valley and 
 black shattered precipices, the curves of the winding river, 
 and the wide expanse of the ocean boimding the prospect 
 towards the E. A road connects Kendal with Sizergh 
 (3|m. S.), Leven's Hall (5m. S.), Heversham (6jm.), and 
 Milnthorpe (railway station) (7jm.), near which are Dallam 
 tower (7m. S.), on the W. and Beetham S. , the latter 
 near Burton and Holme station. 
 
 Arnsile, in Beetham parish (4m. N. of Silverdale 
 station), is a fine pele of the 15th century, with projecting 
 square turrets, one having battlements and machicoulis, 
 and small square-headed windows, like the tower of Hel- 
 slack (where large trees are foimd in the moss); it was 
 built to command Morecambe Bay. 
 
 L 2 
 
148 HEVERSHAM LEVEN's HALL MILNTHORPE. 
 
 Dallam Tower (Gr. "Wilson) (7m. S. and ^m. from 
 Milnthorpe, built 1750, near Castle Hill, the site of a fort, 
 overlooks an ample deer park and a bridge oyer the Belo, 
 which is often full of salmon and trout, and here enters the 
 estuary of the Kent, backed on the opposite shore by Lyth 
 Fell and Whitbarrow. 
 
 Heversham (6fm. S.) — In the Grammar School, E. 
 Chambers, the first editor of an English encyclopaedia, and 
 Bishop Watson (born here in 1737) were educated. Hever- 
 sham Hall is mainly of the loth century. 
 
 Leven's Hall (Hon. F. Gr. Howard), (at Bealthwaite 
 Green, £m. N.W. of Milnthorpe St., 5Jm. S.W. of Kendal), 
 is approached under a noble avenue of oaks, through a park 
 well stocked with fallow deer, and watered by the Kent, 
 which flows between bold and beautifully woodedbanks. The 
 " curiously knotted " gardens were laid out in the French 
 fashion by Beaumont, gardener to King James II. The 
 house is rich in elaborate oak carvings. The chimney 
 piece, dated 1586, in the library, representing Hercules, and 
 Samson, and the Seasons. The principal pictures are of 
 Colonel Grahame, keeper of the Privy Purse to James H., 
 who purchased the estate from the Bellinghams (by Lely) ; 
 Anna Boleyn, Henry VII., by J. Maubeuse, and the Holy 
 Family. The Hall contains armour of different periods, 
 and bas-reliefs of scriptural subjects carved in wood. 
 Gobelin tapestry illustrates a tale of Boccaccio. On May 12, 
 annually, the Mayor and Corporation of Kendal, having 
 proclaimed the fair at Milnthorpe, are here entertained 
 with luncheon and morocco (strong ale), and athletic games 
 in the open air. There are a few remains of a temple of 
 of Diana in the vicinity. There are also a cascade at Leven's 
 Force, and a salmon leap in the Ken. 
 
 Milnthorpe, telegraph station (Cross Keys) ; lm. from 
 railway, 7jm. from Kendal, 14m. by the Sands, and 22m. 
 hj road from Ulverston, has a population of 1534, and 
 contains S. Thomas Church, built 1837. It is a bathing 
 place, and the only port in the county, and stands on the 
 north side of a shallow creek called the Belo, near the 
 mouth of the Kent. Flour mills afford one of the staple 
 
SIZERGH HALL. 149 
 
 occupations. There are several plantations near the town, 
 and from Sizergh Hall two avenues diverge, one towards 
 Kendal, the other in the direction of Milnthorpe, Levens, 
 and Lancaster. The railway at the tunnel crosses the 
 Kendal and Lancaster Canal, and, passing through a fine 
 and well wooded country, traverses the embankment at 
 Sedgwick, skirts Natland, and, after crossing an embank- 
 ment and proceeding through some deep cuttings in the 
 rock, reaches Oxenholme station, from which the Kendal 
 and Windermere line affords an easy and pleasant approach 
 to the lake country through a pretty valley. The distance 
 is 14m. to Newby Bridge, to Bowness 14m. 
 
 Sizekgh Hall (W. Strickland), is described by Gray in 
 a letter to the Duke of Wharton, 1769. The tower is of 
 the time of Henry VII., has good battlements, chimneys, 
 and some original windows, but the house has been altered 
 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth and since. It stands upon 
 a fine raised terrace, round three sides of a court, the 
 ancient barme-kin, measuring 180 feet on every side, with a 
 door on the north side. On the south-west side is the 
 great tower, containing the drawing-room ; and the Queen's 
 Chamber, so called because Queen Katharine Parr was once 
 its occupant for a few nights after the death of Henry 
 VHL, has rich tapestry and a carved chimney-piece. The 
 carved work is Elizabethan throughout the house, and of 
 great merit and considerable beauty and originality. The 
 inlaid chamber, a bed room, also in the great tower, is 
 panelled with dark oak, inlaid with holly in curious arabesque 
 devices. The small tower, also on the south side of the 
 Hall, is embattled and of great strength, and contains a 
 guard chamber, capable of holding 12 men, in the upper 
 story. The house, which fronts the east, stands back Jm. 
 from the main road, at the foot of a bleak hill, and on a 
 natural terrace which rises to some height above the ad- 
 joining level country. There are some fine elms in the 
 park, a double flight of steps from the garden to the 
 upper terrace forms the approach to the hall, 50 feet long, 
 and hung with armour and tapestry and pictures of Charles 
 H., by Vandyke, presented to the family by James II. j of 
 l 3 
 
150 ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 
 
 Bishop Strickland ; of Namur, ambassador from Charles 
 VI., by Eigaud; and Mary Queen of Scots, by More ; 
 and portraits by Lely and Eomney. The lords of Sizergh 
 Hall could, in border wars, lead out 290 bow and billmen. 
 
 Kendal to Ambleside. — The tourist leaves Kendal on 
 the road winding over the hill, but takes now the road to 
 the right hand from the turnpike gate (2m.), the left 
 leading to Bowness (8m.), Shap and Howgill Fells, closing 
 in the valley of the Kent. Proceeding by the village of 
 Staveley (4m.), with its bobbin and woollen mills, after 
 catching a glimpse of Coniston Fells and the long valley of 
 Kentmere to the right, he reaches lug's Chapel (6^m.), built 
 by Richard Bateman, who, like another Whittington, from 
 an apprentice rose to be a London merchant. Residing at 
 Leghorn in the course of his trade, he forwarded thence the 
 marble slabs which form the pavement of the chapel. On 
 his voyage home the captain of the ship poisoned him, and 
 seized the ship and cargo. Wordsworth alludes to him 
 under the name of Michael. From Banne Rigg Head 
 (7jm.), Windermere bursts on the view, with broad topped 
 Bowfell (Scaw Fell is to the southward), and Langdale 
 Pikes, with Great End and Great Gable, appearing behind. 
 Loughrigg Fell is to the S.E. of the Pikes, with Fairfield and 
 Scandale in the background, and to the S. are Coniston Old 
 Man, Crinkle Crags, Wrynose, and Wetherlam. At Grrest 
 Head (J. Braithwaite), (8ini.), a delicious green lane 
 shadowed by elms, the road to Bowness (2m.), diverges on the 
 left. JBirtlnvaite (9m.), (Windermere Flotel) 2m. from Bow- 
 ness, and 5m. from Ambleside, is reached by the Kendal 
 and Windermere railway, and communicates by coach with 
 Ambleside (14m.) The route lies by Cook's House or 
 Winlass How, and Lowwood Inn (10m.) Near the former 
 is a road to UHeswater, through Troutbeck and over 
 Kirkstone. 
 
 Kendal to Hawkshead and Coniston. — The tourist 
 leaves Kendal by the road over the hill, by the House of 
 Correction, S. Thomas's Church being on his left hand, he 
 keeps the left road from the turnpike gate (2m.), that upon 
 the right leading to Ambleside, and, traversing moor and 
 
ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 151 
 
 hill, lie reaches Crook (4|m.) About 3ni. further on this 
 dreary rugged road he first gains a view of Windermere. 
 Furness Fells, Storr's Hall (Rev. T. Stainforth) Storr's 
 Point and Berkshire Island appear on the left, Bowness 
 being Jm. to the right. He now crosses by the Ferry 
 (8^ni.), over the lake, now about 400 yards, into Lanca- 
 shire. The road, lying over hilly ground, lies by the village 
 of Saivreij (11m.), along the east shore and round the 
 head of Estlnvaite Lake, Hawkshead (13m.), thence it 
 proceeds over elevated ground to Coniston Waterhead Inn 
 (17m.), with fine views of the lake and vale, bounded 
 by mountains, till the tourist arrives at the village of 
 
 Coniston (18m.), which lies under the shadow of Old 
 Man ^m. to the W. There is a railway to Ulverston, 
 from Coniston. From Hawkshead the distance to Ambleside 
 is 5m., Newby Bridge 8m., Ulverston 16m. 
 
 Kexdal to Haweswater — for horsemen or on foot. 
 The road to Shap Fells is followed to Watch Gate (4jm.), 
 and then a deep and narrow hilly lane on the left enclosed 
 by lichened walls covered with wild flowers and by hedges, 
 leads into the valley of Long Sleddale, 6m. long by 3m. in 
 breadth, enclosed by rocky declivities and reaching from 
 Harter to Potter Fell ; it is intersected by the sparkling 
 Sprint. A pretty village lies among wooded and undulating 
 meddows, under the steep and lofty fells dark with tangled 
 mazes of coppice and oak, and echoing with the fall of cas- 
 cades. The slate quarries are at Rangle, in the head of the 
 dale. The way to the left must be taken. The chapel (7^m.), 
 stands on a knoll, with Bannisdale Fell on the right, and 
 Brunt Knott to the left. A thin stratum of silurian lime- 
 stone rich in fossils extends to the Duddon. Below Sadgill 
 Bridge (9^m.) there is a pretty waterfall. The carriage road 
 is good along the N.W. shore. A bleak sterile common 
 succeeds, with a wearisome ascent, abrupt and rugged. South- 
 ward up Gatesgarth Pass (14m.), a deep defile between per- 
 dendicular sides and broken craggy rocks, fragments of which 
 strew the level through which a stream follows. He then 
 makes a descent as steep, with Harter Fell on the left, Brans- 
 tree on the right, and Mardale, at the head of Haweswater 
 l 4 
 
152 ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 
 
 in front, a valley 2im. long. The view from the summit of 
 the hill commands Lancaster Sands, and on descending 
 Haweswater, beyond which is Blea Tarn, Kidsty Pike, High 
 Street, so called from the Roman road from Penrith to 
 Appleby, with a narrow projecting ledge, called the Long 
 Stile, secluding it from the other parts of the valley, and 
 connecting it with the straits of Riggendale, a high dreary 
 solitude, the loftiest portion of Mardale and containing 
 Smallwater Tarn. 
 
 Mardale Green (Dim Bull) is lm. from the head of 
 Haweswater, and 15m. from Kendal. Troutbeck is 6m. 
 distant, Bowness 10m. (reached by crossing High St. to the 
 right of Nan Bield Pass, and continuing the route through 
 Troutbeck), Haweswater may be reached by Shap. It is 
 3m. long by a J to |m. in breadth, and finely situated among 
 solemn mountain scenery. The little chapel of Mardale 
 stands among yews and sycamores. 
 
 Kendal to Nan Bield Pass. The road is followed to 
 Staveley (4m.) on the right, a road practicable for carriages 
 diverges to Kentmere. The valley (6m. long) is sheltered 
 by Hill Street, 2700 ft. high, Hill Bell, 2436, and Harter 
 Pell. The remains of a Roman road, which was continued 
 along Lade (way) Pot, are traceable on High Street. On 
 leaving Staveley the tourist passes by Bell Green, having 
 Hugill Fell to the left, by Mill Rigg, and the site of Kent- 
 mere Tarn, through Kentmere by Hallin Bank with Goatka 
 Crag to the right. At Kentmere Hall (9m.) a square 
 gaunt pele tower, now a farm-house, the memorable Ber- 
 nard Gilpin was born, 1517. The " Cock lad of Kentmere,'' 
 the Westmoreland Hercules, Hugh Herd, lifted the chimney 
 beam, 30 by 13 inches, and 12J inches thick, into its place 
 6 ft. above the ground, though twelve men could not move 
 it. He died at the age of 42, from over exertion in pulling 
 up large trees by the roots. The tourist then proceeds over 
 Kentmere Fell by Small Water, the southernmost of Mar- 
 dale waters, to Mardale Green, with its homely but com- 
 fortable inn, to Mardale Chapel. From Mardale Chapel 
 to High Street the distance is 3m., the tourist tracks a 
 stream running through the valley between White Raise 
 and Kidsty Pike ; the latter is passed on the left ; and the 
 
ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 153 
 
 . summit traversed in a southerly direction. From Kentmere 
 the tourist follows the road along the west bank of the 
 stream under Bainsborrow Crag, from the chapel to the 
 slate quarries, and after ljm. beyond these mounts a hill on 
 the left, and, the ridge being gained, turns to the right. 
 Pie can ascend the mountain of Hill Street, and descend 
 into Martindale, or go to Haweswater. The route from 
 Kentmere over Nan Bield Pass between Harter Fell and 
 High St. is still more difficult than that over Gatescarth 
 Pass ; the return can be made (1) by Blea Tarn and High 
 St.; or (2) by Small Water and Nan Bield to Troutbeck; 
 or (3) by the only horse road over Gatescarth Pass, 
 between Harter Fell on the right and Branstree on the 
 left, into Long Sleddale, the vale of the Sprint ; near the 
 mouth of the Galeforth, near which is the Spout, a water- 
 fall 300 ft. in descent,* a path on the right diverges to 
 Kentmere. 
 
 Kendal to Penrith by Poad. — The tourist leaves 
 Kendal, having S. George's Church and Benson Knott on 
 his right hand, crosses Mint Bridge with Mint House (Mrs. 
 Elderton) on the left. From Otter Bank (3m.) there is a 
 beautiful view of Kendal, and 2m. further the opening of 
 Long Sleddale, and the Sprint are passed [see the last 
 route, above]. Forest Hall (7m.) adjoins Whinfell Beacon, 
 1500 ft., on the right, and Law Bridge House (E. Fother- 
 gill) on the left • High Borroiv Bridge (9m.) crosses the 
 Lune, near the Poman camp of Castle Hows, and beyond is 
 a steep ascent under Bretherdale Bank to Shap Fells (12m.), 
 a crest of high moorland (3m. S.W. of Shap Wells), with 
 Wastdale Head on the left, from which erratic granite 
 boulders have been carried into Lancashire, Staffordshire, and 
 to the Yorkshire coast. Shap toll-bar (14m.), is passed 
 and the village of Shap reached. (Greyhound, King's 
 Arms.) There is a road to Haweswater (6m.) ; lm. N.E. 
 is a Druidical circle at Gumerkeld; and on the S.E, by 
 the road-side are two lines of large blocks of granite at 
 intervals of 10 or 12 yards, covering an area of a Jm. long 
 by 20 to 30 yards broad, they are known as Carl lofts, and 
 have been variously represented as a Druidical stone avenue, 
 
154 ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 
 
 and a Danish monument. The road continues by Tlirimby, 
 (19m.), Hackthorpe (21m.), Clifton (23fm.), near the gates 
 to Lowther Park, with an old manor house, and moor (the 
 scene in 1745 of a skirmish between the troops of the Duke 
 of Cumberland and Prince Charles Edward, described in 
 Waverley), and the Early English Church of S. Cuthbert, 
 the chancel was rebuilt 1849 ; the route continues oyer 
 Lowther Bridge (24Jm.) ; and entering Cumberland reaches 
 Penrith (25m.) 
 
 Kendal to Shap, thence to Penrith, by Eallwat. 
 — The tourist proceeds by railway to Oxenholme station and 
 there joins the main line to Carlisle; after passing Birkland 
 cutting it skirts Benson Knott (1098 ft. high), passes 
 through cuttings in the rock, traverses the Docker Gill via- 
 duct over the Mint on 6 arches, each of 50 ft. span, skirts 
 Morsedale Hall, and Shaw End, 5m. N. of Kendal (II. 
 Shepherd), passes through a cutting in Samel at Grayrigg 
 summit (Jm. further), and traversing Low Gill embank- 
 ment (lm. N.) reaches Low Gill Station [from which Sed- 
 berg, Yorkshire, pop. 2235, on the Bother, in a beautiful 
 mountain valley, is 5m. S.E., and Calf Eell, 2188 ft., near 
 the beautiful waterfall, Cantley Spout is 6m. E.]. The 
 line skirts the Dillicar hills, and pierces them through a 
 cutting, the silvery Lune being a prominent object in the 
 landscape which every moment increases in beauty and 
 grandeur j it crosses the Borrowwater viaduct, near which, 
 about 20 yards distant, are remains of the Boman Castle 
 Eield, a post which guarded the pass. Borrow Bridge, 
 (9m. by road) famous for trout, and hemmed in by hills, is 
 seen to the right. Emerging from a cutting and a tunnel hewn 
 through the rock, the line traverses the Lune embankment, 
 5 ft. deep, formed through the old river bed ; onwards by 
 Loup's Fell cutting, Birkbeck embankment and viaduct, it 
 re-ascends the great incline of 8m. in length, with a rise of 1 
 in 75, to Shap summit, 1000 ft. above the sea and 888 ft. 
 higher than the line at Morecambe Bay. Tebay Station 
 (4jm.) lies near the Fells (12m. by road) [and 3m. S.~VV. 
 of Orton on the Lune], under Orton Scar, in a rich mineral 
 country, and where Burn of Orton Hall, author of " Justice 
 
ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 155 
 
 of the Peace/' was vicar ; and some barrows and a beacon 
 remain, in Castle Fields (2m.). There is a tumulus . at 
 Gamelands (lm.), and our Lady Well is lm. of All Saints' 
 Church, which contains a south chantry, with water-drain 
 brackets and sedilia, a red stone font, 1662 ; a good parish 
 chest, and oak roof. The old hall, now a farm-house, 
 bears date 1604. Friars Biggins belonged to the Friars of 
 Conishead. On either side of the incline are rugged walls of 
 limestone rock 60 ft. high ; and after threading a cutting 
 and crossing a circle of boulder stones, the train stops at 
 Shap. The tower of Shap Abbey, on the Lowther, remains, 
 it was founded for Praernonstratensian Canons by Thomas 
 Fitz-Gospatrick in the reign of King John, 1150. The 
 place was formerly known as ITeppe. The Shap Spa (15m. 
 from Kendal, 12m. from Appleby), is a medicinal saline 
 spring, with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, resembling the 
 qualities of the Leamington waters, more active than those 
 of Gilsland, and milder than the springs at Harrowgate. 
 The hotel stands among the desolate grandeur of the 
 moors over which Prince Charles marched in 1745. Three 
 ridges of heathy downs slope to a narrow beck, and between 
 two grassy hill-tops with scattered ash trees, blanched and 
 stunted, the Birkbeck appears; then hills succeed still 
 more barren and rocky, and then the Shap Fells, from which 
 the gTanite boulders have been earned over the whole coun- 
 try. The climate is exposed to storms and rain, and is very 
 cold in autumn and spring, the latter being very late, and 
 th.Q snow lying long. The bath-house stands between the 
 Spa Hotel and the old well house. The tortuous streams 
 from Wastdale and Bleabeck rolling over boulders and 
 rocky beds unite on the lawn in front of the inn. Omni- 
 buses in summer meet the mid-day trains both from the 
 north and south. Hardindale Nab (near which the learned 
 Dr. Mills was bom), 2m. E. of Shap, commands very fine 
 views of the Yale of Lowther on the W. and Syvennet on 
 the E. From Shap, the line skirting the E. side of the 
 village, enters a heavy cutting and passes Thrimby through 
 a thick plantation ; pastures succeed to rugged mountains ; 
 and Cross Fell, Saddleback and Skiddaw form a noble 
 background; a skew bridge, adjoining Lowther Park and 
 
156 KESWICK. 
 
 Castle (Earl of Lonsdale), admits to Clifton Station ; from 
 which it is carried along the Lowther embankment, cross- 
 ing the Lowther viaduct 100 ft. above the river, on 6 
 arches each of 60 ft. span, and ljm. beyond, the Eamont 
 by another viaduct near Brougham Hall (Lord Brougham), 
 and then emerges from a cutting, stops at Penrith. 
 
 KESWICK 
 
 (the fortified town), Cumberland, pop. 2200. (Royal 
 Oak, King's Arms, Queen's Head, George, Derwent- 
 water Arms, at Portinscale l^m.). From Castlerigg, on 
 the mail road between Ambleside and Keswick, the view 
 of the Vale of Keswick is peculiarly fine ; the town with 
 its white houses, embosomed in trees, the lofty spire of S. 
 Kentigern's, the gleamy breadths of Derwentwater and 
 Bassenthwaite, lying under the wooded slopes of towering 
 mountains make up a varied and grand picture. On a 
 nearer approach we find a long straggling town with stony 
 streets and verdant copses, situated in the centre of a beau- 
 tiful valley on the south bank of the Greta, Jm. from Der- 
 wentwater, and l£ni. from Skiddaw. 
 
 A regatta is held here on the last Thursday or Friday in 
 August. Letters arrive at 9*15 a.m., and are dispatched at 
 4-15 p.m. Keswick is 13m. S.E. of Cockermouth, 17m. 
 N.E. of Ambleside, 18m. S.W. of Penrith. Ambleside and 
 Keswick are rivals in popularity as centres of observation ; 
 and, as Sir Koger de Coverley summed up in an equally de- 
 licate dispute, there is much to be said on both sides. The 
 town has manufactures of linsey-woolsey, edge-tools, and 
 black-lead pencils made from lead of the Borrodale mines, 
 but only to be purchased in London on Mondays ! The 
 Townhall, built 1813, has a bell inscribed " H. D. E. O., 
 1001," brought from the Lord's Isle on Derwentwater ; and 
 contains Flintoft's model of the lake district, from Egremont 
 to Shap, and Hampside to Sebergham, 12 ft. 9 in. by 9 ft. 
 3 in., made 1832 — July, 1849, and embracing every moun- 
 tain, 16 large lakes, .and 52 smaller tarns and sheets of 
 water. The public library, founded by Mr. Marshall, and 
 
KESWICK. 157 
 
 the geological museum, "begun in 1780 by Peter Crosth- 
 waite, Commander H.E.I.C.S., and inventor of the life boat 
 and iEolian harp, are worthy of a visit. S. John's Church, 
 of red sandstone, with a spire, was built by J. Marshall, of 
 Hallsteads, who bought the manor from Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, to which the Crown had granted the forfeited estates 
 of the Earls of Derwentwater. S. Kmtigem's Church, 
 Crosthwaite, a long white building, Late Perpendicular 
 (restored by I. Stanger, of Lanthwaite, at a cost of 4000/.), 
 stands f m. distant, between Skiddaw and the lake. The 
 chantry of S. Mary Magdalen was founded by the Derwent- 
 waters. At the east end of the south aisle are two effigies 
 ftf stone — a knight and a lady, the former in a mantle and 
 tunic, with a purse ; a brass of Sir John Patcliffe, M.P., 
 and sheriff of the time of Edward III. ; and effigies of Sir 
 John Katcliffe in plate armour, Feb. 2, 1528, and dame 
 Alice. There are six windows filled with modern glazing. 
 The effigy of Robert Southey (March 24, 1843), in Caen 
 stone, by Lough, cost 1100'. 
 
 " That grave at Skiddaw's feet, 
 The waving grass, the chequered skies, 
 Calm Nature's lover ! seemed most meet 
 With thy soul's dreams to harmonise. 
 Thou sleepest in a stately fane, 
 High Heaven's blue arch is o'er thee bent, 
 And winds and waves their sweetest strain 
 Make round thy mountain monument ; 
 And sunbeams, when departing night 
 Eolls back the mist from Gowdar's crest, 
 Break through their clouds in rosy light, 
 To lie along thy quiet breast." 
 
 Greta Hall (C. W. Eothery), to the north of the town, was 
 Southey's home for forty years in sight of " the lake, the 
 circle of mountains, and the illimitable sky," standing on a 
 small hill by the side of Skiddaw, about 200 yards to the 
 rio-ht of the bridge on the Portinscale road. Seven thou- 
 sand volumes, " the gathered treasures of time, the harvest 
 of so many generations," have been sold out of " his gar- 
 ners j" but the visitor still has before him the subject of 
 
158 KESWICK. 
 
 liis poetic sketch, unfortunately in the unyielding English 
 hexameter, — 
 
 " Mountain, and lake, and vale, 
 Derwent's expanded breast, then smooth and still as a mirror, 
 Under the woods reposed ; the hills that calm and majestic 
 Lifted their heads into the silent sky, from far Glaramara, 
 Blea Crag, and Maiden Mawr to Griesedale and westernmost 
 
 Wythorp, 
 Dark and distinct they rose, the clouds had gathered above them, 
 High in the middle air, high purple pillowy masses, 
 While in the west beyond was the last pale tint of the twilight." 
 
 Coleridge, who lived here with Southey for four years, 
 writing in 1800, says : — " This room commands six distinct 
 landscapes, the two lakes, the vale, the river and mountains, 
 and mists and clouds and sunshine making endless com- 
 binations, as if earth and heaven were for ever talking 
 to each other." Jonathan Otley, Chief Justice Banks, 
 whose wife so gallantly held out in Corfe Castle against 
 the rebels, and Green the painter, who is buried at Gras- 
 mere, resided in the neighbourhood. At Applethwaite is 
 the house which Wordsworth gave to his daughter. Here 
 Charles Lamb wandered u among the net of mountains, " 
 and in his little garden at Portinscale the boy-husband 
 Shelley chased his child-wife of fifteen summers. There is 
 many a pretty stroll to be made in the vicinity under the 
 green gloom of the trees, where the branches are interlaced 
 overhead with blue islets of sky intervening through the 
 spaces, and the cool air is the more pleasant in contrast with 
 the hot and luminous beyond the dense shade. Then there 
 are bright glimpses of dazzling sunny roads and of the 
 silvery lake, quivering and dimpling among the trees as it 
 murmurs lapping the pebbly shore with its lazy waters ; 
 while the bolder traveller will find the crisp short mountain 
 grass soft and cool to the tread after the hot dusty high road, 
 and as he mounts the slope of the natural terrace, will enjoy 
 the fresh air and wandering breeze laden with fragrant 
 scent from the wild thyme. The Vale of Keswick reaches 
 N. and S. from Bassenthwaite to Derwent ) on the E. is 
 
KESWICK. 159 
 
 Thirlrnere, on the W. the Yale of Newlands, and on the 
 S. is Borrodale. There are pleasant views from the ter- 
 race between Applethwaite and Milbeck ; from Crow Hall ; 
 from the vicarage ; from the west shore of Bassenthwaite, 
 from Ashness on the Watendlath road ; from Latrigg ; from 
 the foot of Skiddaw ; and from Bassenthwaite House on the 
 Carlisle and Irby road, which commands Solway Frith, 
 Wallow Crag and Skiddaw ; from Applethwaite, Wallow, 
 Castle, Falcon and Shepherds' Crags, the latter rising over 
 Lodore, Glaramara, Scawfell Pikes, Mellbreak, Red Causey 
 and Grisedale Pikes, Brund, Great End, Catbells, High 
 Stile, and Grassmoor, in combination with the lake and 
 churches, make an unequalled picture. A short walk of 
 less than a mile by the lake side leads to Friar's Crag, a 
 little rocky headland with a clump of pines, under which 
 the row-boats lie ; from it, after heavy rains, the roar of 
 Lowdore'Fall is plainly heard. Another good view is from 
 Stable Field adjoining, and then turning off on the left to 
 reach the wooded mound of Castle Head (Jm.), to which a 
 winding footpath out of the Borrodale forms the ascent. 
 There is a fine view of the entire range of mountains, em- 
 bracing tall Causey Pike, Knott Pike, Bawling End, Knott 
 Bigg and Red Pike, all forming a gradual slope ; then High 
 Stile, Robinson, Catbells, Gold Scalp, Gate Crag, Scawfell, 
 and pikes, Great End towering over the cone of Castle Crag, 
 Glaramara soaring above the pyramid of Brund, then gra- 
 dually rising Knotts, Falcon and W^allow Crag, composing a 
 superb amphitheatre of twenty miles in circumference round 
 the two lakes. Castle Crag was once crowned by a Roman 
 fort, the materials of which were used to build Lord Der- 
 wentwater's house on Lord's Island, where the moss-grown 
 foundations may still be seen, but the stones now form the 
 Townhall of Keswick. On the Ambleside road is the long 
 hill of Castle Rigg, where, when Gray halted to catch his 
 last sight of Skiddaw and the two lakes from the solemn 
 entrance of Borrodale to the subsidence of the hills beyond 
 Bassenthwaite, he had almost a mind to go back. The 
 King's Head at the head of the Yale of S. John, Lodore 
 Inn at the top of Derwentwater, and Rosthwaite Inn in 
 
1G0 BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 
 
 Borrodale, clean little country hostelries, are good stations 
 for visiting this charming neighbourhood. 
 
 The road from Keswick by Castlerigg, Thirlmere, and 
 Dunmail Raise to Ambleside has been already described. 
 
 To Bassexthwaite Water.. — Circuit about 18m. (Inns : 
 Swan at the head; at the foot the Castle, E. side; and 
 Pheasant, W. side.) — The tourist takes the western road 
 by Portinscale (ljm.) and Braithwaite (2^in.), quitting here 
 the Cockermouth road, where a fine view of Grisedale Pike 
 is obtained, to Tlwrnthwaite, leaving Whiniatter on the left, 
 skirts the lake under Lord's Seat and Barf along a terrace 
 commanding fine scenery, and then turns bjPeelwyke (8m.) to 
 Ouse Bridge (9m.), under which the Derwent flows, towards 
 Workington, and on to Castle Inn, Bassenthwaite (10m.), 
 [by proceeding lm. on the Hesketh road beyond the Castle 
 Inn, and mounting the Hause, he will have a good view of 
 the lake and the vales and Isell and Embleton] ; he returns 
 by Bassenthwaite Sandbed (13m.), and under the base of 
 Skiddaw to Keswick (18m.). The lake, 4im. by lm., 68 feet 
 deep, and 210 feet above the sea, lies on the verge of the 
 level country under the shadow of Skiddaw, which rises 
 2^m. distant on the E. shore : it abounds in wild fowl. 
 The interval of 4m. of low meadows, in summer bright 
 with heather and gorse, between this lake and Derwent- 
 water, is not unfrequently covered by the winter floods. 
 
 The E. side of Bassenthwaite Water is deeply indented 
 by three bays, behind which rises the mighty Skiddaw. 
 Along the entire length of the W. shore is a range of high 
 mountains, Lord's Seat, Wythop, and Scaw Fell sloping 
 abruptly to the water's edge, with the exception of a few 
 projecting breaks, such as Wythop Brows, partly covered 
 with oak trees. By following the E. shore to Annathwaite 
 the tourist may take a road on the left up to the round 
 green hill of Bradness, which like a headland, with Bow- 
 ness on the W. and Scarness on the E., forms a spacious 
 bay. The road to Keswick along the W. bank affords de- 
 lightful scenery. At Beck Wythop is a good view of the 
 lake ; but although the outlet is concealed by Castle How, 
 a wooded promontory, and the shore is lined with low 
 
ROUTE TO BORRODALE. 161 
 
 wooded rocks, the valley, Skiddaw, Crossthwaite Church, 
 and heathery Ullock are in view. Each view grows more 
 beautiful at each successive elevation, with Keswick and its 
 church hamlet, the farmsteads of grey stone under shady 
 sycamores, and the rich valley plain ; Bassenthwaite, and 
 the grey glassy Derwentwater, reflect every tint of the 
 summer sky, only rendering it clearer and deeper ; or, if the 
 visitor takes the road to Ambleside, he will wander on by 
 a wooded terrace drive, with the creeping white rose and 
 the spicy odour of the bog myrtle, overhung here and 
 there by crags and darkly-frowning cliffs. 
 
 To Borrodale. — The pedestrian or horseman diverges 
 beyond Wallow Crag, at Barrow Green (ljm.), over the 
 Common (2m.). [From the hill side, Thornthwaite and 
 Braithwaite on the left, distant Bassenthwaite, and in the 
 foreground Friar's Crag' and Stable Hill, with the islets of 
 Derwentwater, form a beautiful group.] Crossing Ashness 
 Bridge (2^m.) and a rustic wooden bridge (3|m.) over the 
 stream, which, flowing from a clear round tarn above, feeds 
 the fall of Lodore, the tourist reaches Watendlath (5m.). 
 This is a lonely hamlet in a secluded upland valley, tra- 
 versed by the Lodore stream, and lying parallel to the 
 lower vale of Borrodale, which lies to the eastward of it. 
 Blea Tarn (l^m.) contains excellent trout. [There is a foot- 
 path by Legberthwaite over Armboth Fell to Thirlmere and 
 from Watendlath.] The pedestrian may return by Lodore, 
 crossing the wooden bridge already passed (ljm.), or by the 
 Borrodale road to Barrow Hause, or from Watendlath Tarn 
 by taking the slope of grass tufted with heath over the fells 
 to Rosthivaite, and 1 Jm. below the Hause (7m.), where there 
 is a small inn, and the two streams of the glen, divided 
 by Glaramara, unite to form the Derwent ; with the various 
 passes visible to Buttermere by Honister Crag, over the 
 Stake (5Jm.) to Langdale, and by Styhead to Wastdale, 
 with Glaramara and, over Seathwaite, the rugged outlines 
 of Great Gable, Scaw Fell, and Pikes. From Castle Hill 
 above the inn there is a good view over all Borrodale. 
 By taking the road to the right the tourist will reach 
 Bowderstone (8m.), and then proceed by Lodore (10m.) 
 
 M 
 
162 BORRODALE. 
 
 to Keswick (13m.). Rosthwaite is near the meeting of 
 the two roads up Borrodale Dale, coming from the Hause 
 and Grange and from Nibthwaite, and stands in the very 
 centre of the dale, a tract of 2000 acres, once belonging to 
 Furness Abbey, and including pasture, varied by copses. 
 Glaramara rises above Rosthwaite between Seathwaite and 
 Langstreth. The glen of the Hause from Seatollar forms a 
 pass to Buttermere Vale. Borrodale unites the beautiful 
 and terrific near Rosthwaite, exhibiting varied and pleasant 
 scenery, but towards Derwentwater forming a wild and 
 solitary defile strewn with fragments of rock, and extending 
 for miles through the mountains, where the only moving 
 thing to relieve its savage, rugged grandeur, is the merry 
 silver Derwent. From Rosthwaite the tourist can turn to 
 the left, and cross over the Wythburn Fells, and rough, 
 heathery, trackless hills to Thirlriiere, 4m. distant. The 
 foot-road through Langstreth, the higher part of the dale, 
 leads into Great Langdale over the Stake Pass ; another to 
 Grasmere by Greenup, Whitestones, and Easedale. 
 
 The Cumbrian Goatham was long unknown to any but the 
 most adventurous tourist : the road to it was seldom tra- 
 versed except by market carts devoid of springs, and, in 
 the few fine days of summer here, by laden country cars. 
 Desolate mountain passes secluded it from the adjoining 
 districts ; and the dalesmen never left their happy valley 
 except to trudge to their little chief town, 4m. distant, there 
 to purchase shoes, tobacco, and white bread, but more fre- 
 quently to procure them by means of barter, giving in 
 exchange butter, cheese, eggs, and the produce of the spin- 
 ning-wheel. In Borrodale the simple villagers built the 
 wall at Grange to keep the cuckoo in, that they might 
 enjoy a perpetual spring. 
 
 Here the elders of the villagers sat in conclave about a 
 tinker's donkey which had mischanced to stray into their so- 
 ciety, and the oldest inhabitant, after mature investigation, 
 solemnly averred that the unknown creature was what natu- 
 ralists call a peacock ! A farmer, riding a barebacked steed 
 to the neighbouring town, espied a saddle with stirrups — 
 a marvellous piece of mechanism ; he bought it, straddled 
 
KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 1G3 
 
 over it, rode away, and arrived before his own door ; then, 
 having descanted on his purchase, he essayed to descend, 
 but his wooden shoes clung so fast to the stirrups, that 
 although wife and children strove with might and main, 
 there he sat firm, and could not alight, while the animal, with 
 him left centaur- wise upon its back, was turned out upon the 
 green to graze. The village sages being convened, at last 
 the chief gave his wise counsel, that the saddle, with the 
 goodman on it, should be removed from the tired beast, 
 and placed by the kitchen fire ; and there accordingly, all 
 the winter through, the unhappy farmer sat carding wool. 
 Spring was verging upon summer, and his sheep remained 
 neglected, when two travelling students of S. Bee's hap- 
 pened to pass and ask for a drink of water, and, as a return 
 for his hospitality, accomplished his release by taking his 
 shoes off and the stirrups with them. He laughed merrily, 
 and vowed, as long as he had a fold of sheep or a croft of 
 grass, that he would keep a son as scholar of S. Bee's. 
 
 Another worthy, returning with lime on his pack-horse 
 from market during a shower of rain, was horrified by the 
 sight of smoke rising from his sacks. In vain he attempted 
 with hatsful of water to quench the latent fire, which he 
 attributed to diabolical agency, and at last in despair threw 
 his whole load into the river. 
 
 Keswick to Buttermere (10m.). — The tourist, on 
 horseback if he pleases, takes the Cockermouth road through 
 Foriinscale (lm.) and between Swineside (2|m.) and Foe 
 Park Woods to Three Roads ; that on the right hand by 
 Stoney Croft (4Jm.) is to be followed. At Bawling End 
 fine views are obtained up the vale, towards Skiddaw, or in 
 the direction of Catbells. One part of the vale reaches to 
 Dalehead from Emerald Bank, there being two branches or 
 glens opening at the woollen mills at Stair Bridge (5Jm.), 
 with Hindsgarth and Goldscalp between them on the N. 
 and to the S. High Crag and Maiden Maur. At Keska- 
 dale (7m.), the last houses are passed before entering the 
 wild pastoral valley, buried in a basin formed by gloomy 
 treeless mountain slopes, but dotted with flocks and folds. 
 Robinson Force, a cataract, pours down the side of Great 
 m 2 
 
164 KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 
 
 Robinson, which is seen through the sides of a ravine, in 
 ascending the long steep way to the vale-head up Newland 
 Hause (8 Jm.) ; the descent is made between green slopes, 
 above a ravine, flanked on the other side by White Lees ; in 
 the hollow is a stream flowing to Crummock water, while 
 the landscape includes Sour Milk Ghyl, rushing down from 
 Burtness or Bleabury Tarn, and a range of hills, reaching 
 from Honister by the gradual elevations of Green Crag, 
 Green and Great Gable, Haystacks (taller than the former), 
 Eagle Crag, and Kirkfell, over Scarf Gap to High Crag, 
 and then descending Hed Pikes, Grey Crag, Floutern, and 
 again rising Hen Combe, and abrupt Mellbreak, to Bannerdale 
 Knot. The tourist passes the little church and reaches the 
 inn of Buttermere (10m.), from which Scale Hill is 4Jm. 
 distant. 
 
 Another route. — The tourist proceeds on the road to Bor- 
 rodale as far as Seatollar (7^m.), and ascends the pass of 
 Borrodale Hame, 1100 ft. high, by a rough, steep, and 
 stony road, and alongside a wood-covered stream, practic- 
 able for a car. Scawfell, Yewdale, Glaramara, and Helvel- 
 lyn over the Borrodale Fells are seen ; he then goes down a 
 narrow unfenced road by a descent of 3m. into Buttermere 
 Dale, along a stony valley beside the Cocker, and under the 
 tremendous side of Honister Crag (10 Jm) ; on the left a per- 
 pendicular rock 1500 ft. high, hollowed out into chambers for 
 roofing slates, tier above tier, with the workmen's hovels scat- 
 tered over the face of the crag, and quarries belonging to 
 General Wyndhani. The slates used to be packed and 
 brought down on hurdles, a practice now abandoned except in 
 remote quarries. The quarryrnen who are let down by ropes 
 from the summit to discover a ledge along which wedges 
 may be driven, show like specks against the sides of the 
 precipice. There are now unfenced tracks along the edge 
 of the crag by which carts reach the quarries. Yew Crag 
 is on the right. At the farm-house of Gatesgarth (11 Jm.), 
 shaded by fino trees [the mountain road diverges here to 
 Wastdale Head (6m.), by the passes of Scarf Gap, between 
 High Crag and Haystacks, at the head of Ennerdale (6m.) 
 and Blacksail on the opposite side of Gillerthwaite valley, 
 
KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 165 
 
 descending through Mosedale between Pillar and Kirk 
 Fell] Hasness (Gen. Benson) appears on the left of the 
 lake, Haystacks, High Crag, and Sour Milk Ghyl, foaming 
 down between Red Pike and High Stile, are seen over the 
 western shore. The best way of reaching Buttermere is by 
 Scale Hill Inn (10m.), (a central station for visiting Cram- 
 mock, Lowes, and Ennerdale water), by Whinlatter and 
 Swineside; but 12m. by Lorton. The tourist proceeds by 
 Braithwaite (2Jm.) [the road to Bassenthwaite diverges 
 here], and makes the long and tedious ascent of Whinlatter 
 (5m.), a hill carpeted with purple heath and golden gorse, 
 where he turns back to see the vale of Keswick, Skiddaw 
 rising over Carlside and Dodd, Lord's Seat on the left, Bass- 
 enthwaite, Carlsledham, Skiddaw, Low Man, Jenkin Hill, 
 Lowscale Fell, Blencathra, Latrigg, Little Mell Fell, 
 Setnaleairing, Great Dodd, over S. John's Ridge, Watson 
 Dodd, over Wallow Crag, Stybarrow Dodd, Whiteside, 
 Helvellyn, Low Man, over Bleabury Fell, and Falcon Crag, 
 Eagle Crag and High St. ; Grisedale Pike rises on the 
 left of the road. [At the 6th milestone the better road 
 by Swineside diverges and commands fine views of the 
 great central group of Cumbrian mountains, and the rich 
 level of Lorton vale, the Solway and Scotch mountains 
 from the station on Lowthwaite woods, and the terrace road 
 on the hill, 8£m.] He passes the Yew of Lorton, 26 ft. in 
 diameter — 
 
 " A solitary tree, a living thing, 
 
 Produced too slowly ever to decay, 
 
 Of form and aspect too magnificent 
 
 To be destroyed — " 
 
 near a farm-house (8m.) ; he then diverges from the Cock- 
 ermouth road, and soon after rejoins the road by Swineside, 
 [|m. further on the left a road to Buttermere diverges]. 
 The return through Buttermere (4m.), over the Hause be- 
 tween Great Robinson and Whiteless Pike, and through 
 Newlands (9m.), would make the entire circuit to Keswick 
 25m. 
 Butteemere — (Fish Inn, (boats kept,) Victoria. — N.B. 
 
 M 3 
 
166 BUTTERMERE. 
 
 There are no vehicles obtainable) — is l^m. by Jm., 90 feet 
 deep, and 247 feet above the sea. It is surrounded by moun- 
 tains casting broad black shadows on its surface ; some with 
 dark heads, some scarped and craggy, some bluff and precipi- 
 tous, some garlanded with wood, all soaring, striking and 
 sublime ; below them in the strip of verdant valley is the 
 lake, like a shield of blue steel laid at the feet of the gigantic 
 rocks ; or like Innocence asleep under the shadow of Power. 
 Upon the W. tower the heights of Red Pike and High 
 Stile with a waterfall between them, High Crag and the Hay- 
 stacks ; to the E., which is more wooded, Great Robinson and 
 Buttermere Moss; at the head, or to the S.E., Honister 
 Crag and Fleetwith seem the tremendous barrier doors 
 that fold upon the only entrance of the dale, and with their 
 fellows exclude the sunshine for a great portion of the day 
 Upon the N., richly wooded meadows, parted by well trim- 
 med hedges or divided into wavy corn-fields and verdant 
 pasturage, with bright-looking farmsteads, the only relief in 
 the dull sullen valley, separate Buttermere from Crum- 
 mock Water, f m. distant, with which it is connected by a 
 brook ; over them appears Low Fell, which separates Lowes- 
 water from Lorton. The little cluster of cottages which 
 compose the village boasts two inns and a church, built 
 1841 by the late Mr. Vaughan Thomas, a clergyman of 
 Oxford. From the Knotts, 300 yards above the Victoria 
 Inn, the view embraces Honister Crag, and then gradually 
 rising Green Crag, Green and Great Gable, Haystacks and 
 Eagle Crag, and High Crag, with the lower elevation of 
 Kirk Fell over Scarf Gap in the background ; High Stile, 
 the monarch of these giants, and Red Pike its rival, con- 
 nected with a broad wall of rock, and then subsiding, Grey 
 Crag, overlooking Scale Force (2m. from Buttermere), and 
 Floutem; Hencomb behind the slope of Mellbreak, and 
 then slowly rising from the level, Rannerdale Knott. The 
 road over Buttermere Hause enters the head of the vale, 
 which reaches 3m. N.W. from Honister Crag to Crummock 
 Water, and skirting the east side, at the foot of the lake, is 
 divided into the road to Lorton, and into a road crossing 
 Buttermere Hause to Keswick. The foot-road from Enner- 
 
ASOENT OF BLENCATHRA. 167 
 
 dale and Wastdale by Scarf Gap Pass enters the head of the 
 dale. At the Fish Inn, Mary Robinson, the beauty of 
 Buttermere, and daughter of mine host, was the favourite 
 attendant on all guests, rare at that time, and as modest and 
 good as she was beautiful. One day a forger named Hatfield, 
 a fugitive from the arrest of j ustice, unhappily arrived and 
 stayed here, having wooed and won the young girl, and 
 married her in 1802. He called himself Hon. Col. Hope, 
 and brother of the Earl of Hopetoun ; within a few months 
 he was apprehended, tried at Carlisle, and hanged in 1803. 
 Mary some years after married a young farmer of Caldbeck, 
 and became the hostess of the inn. The angler will enjoy 
 a day's fishing for char. 
 
 Ascent of Blencatrka, 2787 feet high, and formed of 
 dark schistose stone and clay slate: the peculiar shape 
 which gives the more modern name of Saddleback to this 
 mountain is confined to the view from Penrith. There 
 are steep grassy sloping sides to scale for the dainty foot, 
 a trackless way over deep ravines and huge rugged masses 
 of riven rock for the bold pedestrian, and at each upward 
 step some new and beautiful prospect, the peaceful lake and 
 the long rich valley below ; and before the eyes the dark 
 depths of a little tarn, inky black, under the shadow of a 
 wide curve of precipices, solemn, awful in the vast mountain 
 solitude : to the S. and close at hand, Skiddaw, a rival in 
 height, and the equal front of Helvellyn, where the rook, 
 raven, and buzzard have not looked in vain for the lifeless 
 form of an incautious traveller. There are several routes ; (1.) 
 from Brundholm "Wood, up the Glenderaterra Beck and past 
 Knott Crag, Priestman and Lisle Fell. (2.) From the Keswick 
 and Penrith road at Thelkeld, and by the quarry on the way, 
 a view over the vale of the Greta, with the hills over Crum- 
 mock and Buttermere, and the heights of Newland, is 
 obtained, and from the Knott Crag, between Steel Fell and 
 Helvellyn a little spot of sea is visible ; the best, (3.) is from 
 Scales village on the Penrith and the Hesketh Newmarket 
 road (6m.,) and then passing im. beyond the White Horse 
 Inn, turn up the hill-side by a green shepherd's path, skirt- 
 ing 1 a ravine, and the noisy Glenderamakin stream flowing 
 m 4 
 
168 CRUMMOCK WATER. 
 
 down through Mongrisdale from Threlkeld or Scales Tarn, 
 along 
 
 Souteb Fell. — On this lofty peak, on Midsummer Eve, 
 1735, in 1737, June 23, 1743, 1744, and 1745, and on 
 successive eves of S. John the Baptist, there appeared to 
 shepherds and others aerial armies moving along the 
 mountain side, which, on the N. and W. descends 900 feet 
 sheer to the level below, where no hoof of horse could rest 
 and step of man never fell j for hours the spectral host was 
 seen upon its march, horse and foot. Shadowy troops are 
 recorded to have swept over Helvellyn on the night before 
 Marston Moor, camped on the Leicestershire hills in 1707, 
 and fought from Flowers Barrow to Grange Hill in Dorset- 
 shire in 1678. See Walcott's South Coast, p. 384. 
 
 Thelkeld Tarn, a circular lake of clear bright water 20 
 feet deep, lies on the right at the base of a precipice called 
 Tarn Crag, near Linthwaite Pike, in a deep basin among 
 rocks fallen from Sharp Edge, a narrow ridge of loose 
 stones on the crest of two declivities on the east, but on 
 the west edged with a slope of turf that invites the traveller 
 to descend. 
 
 CRUMMOCK WATER. 
 
 11 Never sunbeam could discern 
 The surface of that sable tarn, 
 In whose mirror yon may spy 
 The stars, while noontide lights the sky." 
 
 Leaving the tarn below, and Glendaterra, a stream that 
 flows between Blencathra and Skiddaw into the Greta, 2m. 
 from Keswick, the tourist climbs until he reaches Lin- 
 thwaite Fell, 2896 feet above the sea, first scaled by 
 Otley and Green, rising so grandly over the valley of S. 
 John ; below the huge buttress of Hall Fell lies Threlkeld ; 
 the hills round Wastwater, Derwentwater, Borrodale, 
 and Buttermere; those of Haweswater, Ambleside, and 
 Troutbeck; Helvellyn, Fairfield, and S. Sunday's Crag; 
 the mitre-like Mell Fells, Coniston Fells, Steel Fell 
 
CRUMMOCK WATER. 169 
 
 stooping over Thirlmere, and Cross Fell above Penrith ; 
 Carlisle in its plain; Lonscale, Griredale, and Carrock 
 Fell ; Solway Firth, with glimpses of the sea and Der- 
 wentwater make up the superb prospect. Tn Bowscale 
 Fell, 3m. from Threlkeld Tarn, is Bowscale Tarn, in which 
 two deathless fish swim, who paid homage to the shepherd 
 Lord Clifford in the days of his obscurity. 
 u The pair were servants of his eye; 
 
 In their immortality, 
 
 They moved about in open sight, 
 
 To and fro, for his delight." 
 
 Mongrisdale r 11m. from Penrith, is not far from the tarn. 
 It contains a small Perpendicular church. The tourist can 
 return in a S.W. direction by descending on Glendaterra, 
 crossing a bridge and traversing Brundholm Wood, enter 
 the Keswick road lm. beyond Thelkeld ; or passing Lisle 
 Fell by Priestman and Knott Crag, he can go down into 
 Threlkeld. Boats are to be had at Scale Hill Inn or 
 Buttermere to Crummock Water. The lake is within a 
 mile from Buttermere across the meadows and reaches to 
 Scale Hill, and is 3 by }m. wide, a depth of 132 feet and 
 240 feet above the sea. It is the source of the Cocker, and 
 contains trout and char. The bare and fissured barrier of 
 Mellbreak, Low Fell at the head of Lorton Vale, and Ped 
 Pike, are on the W. ; and on the E. are Whiteless Pike, 
 Ladhouse, and majestic Grassmoor, its sides lined with 
 beds of ^ shale, and Whiteside, with great rents in their 
 rocky slopes; dark, blue, grey, and ruddy screes, black 
 moss-streaked crags, and patches of green sward descend 
 to the shore, and the mountain tops are ever varying in 
 outline and colour under the constant changes of sun, mist, 
 and cloud. On Sept. 9, 1760, a terrible cataract came down 
 from Grassmoor at midnight, sweeping away trees, inundating 
 the plain, and tearing up a stone causeway, and left the 
 villagers of Brackenthwaite prisoners upon a little island of 
 rock. There is a delightful drive by the road coming from 
 Buttermere and Borrodale hauses, along the east shore, 
 under the mountains, round Pannerdale Knot (2 Jm.), (which 
 gives out a spur, forming a bold black promontory partially 
 
170 CRUMMOCK WATER. 
 
 blasted and overhanging the road), between flat pastures 
 and behind Langthwaite woods, to Scale Hill Inn. There 
 are three small islands at the head, two of which are 
 wooded. The head of the lake is fine, the middle of bold 
 and naked grandeur, and woodlands close the foot. Boating 
 is far preferable to walking here. The scenery towards 
 Scale Hill is magnificent, including, besides the mountains 
 already mentioned, Whitefield and Ladhouse ; and, looking 
 up the lake, are Eed Pike, High Stile, and High Crag, ter- 
 minated by Honister Crag, and having the Hause on the 
 left. There is a field-path, soft and swampy in damp wea- 
 ther, to Scale Force, 2m. from Buttermere, between Mell- 
 break and Blea Crag ; but the prudent tourist will proceed 
 to the head of Crummock Water (lm.), by a dry walk 
 between the lakes, and there take boat. On landing at 
 the mouth of the stream which flows from the cataract, and 
 is crossed by a rustic bridge, a walk of nearly a mile over 
 the flats at Banner dale (2£m.), grass and broken ground, 
 will bring him to a chasm about five yards wide between 
 perpendicular rocks. He then discovers the cascade, a clear 
 fall of 160 feet high, which leaps down in a cavernous depth 
 whirling between two vast walls of red syenite involved in 
 twilight gloom, and throws its light misty spray through a 
 fretwork of branches and stems of ash and oak, and over 
 the green fern and moss that grow in every cranny. By 
 ascending to the station near Langthwaite Woods (3jm.), 
 up the hill-side for about 300 yards, above the little head- 
 land of Ling Crag and under Mellbreak, a fine view of the 
 lake is obtained. Honister Crag is to the N., and the 
 Keswick road by Newlands winding over the Hause, 
 the Vale of Lorton, and the Scotch mountains, are seen. 
 Equally good points are near the milepost upon the Lowes- 
 water road, and from Mellbreak and Rannerdale Knots. 
 The mountains to be observed besides those already men- 
 tioned are, Bed Pike, Kirk, and Scawfell, Middle Pike, 
 Great Gable over Haystacks, Green Gable, mound-like 
 Buttermere Moss, flat Bobinson, and gigantic Whiteside. 
 The view from Lowfell embraces the lakes of Lowes, and 
 Crummock Water and Buttermere. Returning from Scale 
 
DER WENT WATER. 171 
 
 Force, the tourist joins the road at the lake-head (6m.), 
 and returns to Buttermere Inn (7m.) ; or he may take the 
 mountain path over the Screes on the left, passing the black 
 desolate Floutern Tarn into Ennerdale ; where at Smith ey 
 Beck are the slag-heaps of an unknown people ; or he may 
 skirt the N.E. shore of the lake, gaining by the way a fine 
 view of Lorton Vale, to Scale Hill Inn (4|m.) ; Whitehaven 
 is 14m. Scale Hill Inn, 1m. from the lake, is a good centre 
 of observation for the adjacent lakes. At the foot of the 
 lake three roads diverge * to Cockermouth (7m.) by Lorton 
 Vale, a second N.W. to Workington by Loweswater, and 
 a third N. to Keswick by Thornthwaite over Whiteside. 
 
 DERWENTWATEE 
 
 "Is surrounded with sublimity/' says Wordsworth; 
 " the fantastic mountains of Borrodale to the S., the 
 solitary majesty of Skiddaw to the N., the bold steeps 
 of Wallow Crag* and Lodore to the E., and to the W. 
 the clustering mountains of Newlands." It partakes of 
 the lofty majesty of Ulleswater and the delightful 
 scenery of Windermere • on the N.W. the mountains form 
 its stern and rugged boundary of scarred and tempest- 
 worn rocks, beyond which, broken crags soaring up over- 
 shadow the dark winding depths of Borrodale. Some 
 of the mountains dip sheer down to the water, and among 
 them looms great Cat Bells, like a queen among her ladies 
 of honour, stately and apart. Bocks, peaked and conical, 
 beetling or receding, splintered or solid, of every form 
 and shape, form this mountain barrier • but in parts wood 
 clothes the cliffs, and groups of trees, pines or birches, with 
 stems like silvery pillars, crown the rugged headlands, beyond 
 which again there is often a green vein of meadow • but the 
 whole scene is reproduced on the calm surface of the water, 
 which is so transparent that pebbles may be seen at a depth 
 of 20 ft. The lake, which dtmtains pike, trout, and vendace, 
 forms an oval 3 by 1 Jm., 90 ft. deep, and 247 above the 
 sea. The chief curiosity is the Floating Island, 150 yards 
 
172 DER WENT WATER. 
 
 from the shore near Lodore, a mass of soil and vegetation 
 in decay, 6 ft. thick, and sometimes an acre in extent, 
 which gases at times render buoyant. Its last appearance 
 was in 1842. On the Castle-head, the site of a Druid's 
 temple and a Roman fort, the Earls of Der went water built 
 a house, but afterwards re-erected it on the peninsula of 
 Lord's Isle, under Wallow Crag, which they insulated from 
 the mainland. Rampsholme likewise belonged to them. On 
 April 13, the Vicar of Crossthwaite annually landed to say 
 mass in a little chapel on S. Herbert's Isle, so called from a 
 hermit, the friend of S. Cuthbert, who once a year met 
 here or at Lindisfarne. 
 
 " When he paced 
 Along the beach of this small isle, and thought 
 Of his companion, he would pray that both 
 Might die in the same moment. Nor in vain 
 So prayed he, as our chronicles report — 
 Though here the hermit numbered his last day, 
 Far from S. Cuthbert, his beloved friend, 
 These holy men both died in the same hour." 
 
 In 1715 the forfeited possessions of the Earl of Derwent- 
 water were granted to Greenwich Hospital ; on the night 
 before the Earl's beheadal the aurora borealis was pecu- 
 liarly bright and ruddy, and to this hour the northern 
 streamers are described as Lord Derwentwater's lights. 
 In a deep cleft in the wild heights of Wallow Crag, near 
 Lodore Fall, is the Lady's Rake, through which the Countess 
 of Derwentwater fled with her jewels on receiving tidings 
 of her husband's arrest, and thus narrowly escaped death 
 at the hands of the infuriated peasantry, who suspected her 
 because of her foreign origin. Marks of the plough, still 
 visible along the hill-tops, are attributed to the fact of 
 the villagers retiring to them when King John, in revenge 
 for their refusal to follow his army to Scotland, cut down 
 the hedges of the lower lands and gave up all the cultivated 
 tracts to the beasts of the chase. 
 
 Circuit or the Lake. — Th^ tourist takes the road to 
 Borrodale, passing on the left Castle Head, Wallow and 
 Falcon Crags [at a distance of l|m. the road over Barrow 
 
DESWENTWATER. 173 
 
 Common (2m.) to Watendlath], Barrow House, S. ; Cause- 
 way Crag and Catbells are seen over the opposite shore ; 
 Senhouse (2m.) among fine old trees, near which is Barrow 
 Force, 124 feet high ; Lowwood and Highwood Crags ; and 
 reaches the clean and pleasant little inn of Lodore (3m.), 
 behind which is Lodore Fall, 150 feet high, leaping down 
 between two perpendicular rocks, the interval being filled 
 with large fragments which are the rough bed of the 
 cascade, some forming shelves on which trees grow; and 
 the stream, flowing through the wooded banks below, runs 
 in a deep channel to the Derwent. He passes through an 
 orchard, over a foot bridge, and up a wood full of wild 
 flowers. On the right is Shepherd's Crag, on the left 
 G-owder's Crag, with oak, birch, and ash growing out of the 
 fissures ; and among a slope of hundreds of rocks the cas- 
 cade, after wet weather, rolls and leaps in an infinite number 
 of streams, sending up a roar audible at a distance of 4m. 
 A rough path leads up to the crag over the cascade, from 
 which the eye embraces part of Bassenthwaite, Derwent- 
 water, Skiddaw, and the church of S. Kentigern. [There is a 
 steep path through the wood to Watendlath, diverging at 
 the first house beyond the inn, with some fine views of 
 Skiddaw and Derwentwater, Helvellyn on the E., with Bow 
 and Scaw Fell ; through a deep chasm, and then crossing 
 a rustic bridge l^m. from Watendlath.] A cannon is kept 
 at Lodore Inn to waken the mountain echoes of Glaramara. 
 A fine echo may be heard from a gate 400 yards on this side, 
 from Grange Bridge (4m.), under which flows Borrodale 
 Beck, with Grange Crag on the left, and Castle Crag rising 
 on the opposite bank ; the roads on the E. and W. shores 
 of "the lake unite here. On the W. side of this station, 
 looking N., the following mountains are seen: — Ullock 
 Point, Langside, Carlside, and Carsledham, rising up to 
 Skiddaw ; then sloping downwards, Skiddaw, Low Man, 
 Little Man, Jenkin Hill, Lonscale Fell, Littledale Pike, 
 over Latrigg and Castlehead. In the distance are Skiddaw 
 Forest, and rising from it High Row Fell and Blencathra ; 
 then, towering from the level, Falcon Crags, Barrow, High- 
 wood Crag, and Castle Bigg above Lodore. Bowderstone 
 
174 ROUTE TO ENNERDALE WATER. 
 
 (5m.) is a huge boulder weighing 1771 tons, 62 feet long, 
 36 feet high, and 84 feet in circumference. 
 
 " Upon a semicirque of turf-clad ground, 
 A mass of rock, resembling as it lay, 
 Right at the foot of that moist precipice, 
 A stranded ship, with keel upturned, that rests 
 Careless of winds and waves." 
 
 Many similarly dislodged rocks are hanging on the mountain 
 side, some nioss-grown and others clad with trees. A fine 
 view of Borrodale here opens, with Scaw Fell Pikes, Eagle 
 Crag, G-laramara, and Crag Castle [so called from the Roman 
 fort, and after them the watch-tower used by the monks to 
 guard the pass above the village of Rosthwaite]. The return 
 is made by Grange (6m.) [so called from the monks' granary, 
 their salterns being also at the salt spring], and by the 
 village of Manesty, which boasts a medicinal spring ; then 
 by a road high up on the side of Cat Bells, across the outlet 
 of the vale of Newlands, 5m. long, and parallel to Der- 
 wentwater, bounded on the W. by Hindsgarth, Causey Pike, 
 and Goldscope, and on the E. by High Crag, Cat Bells, 
 and Maiden Manx, through Portinseale (10m.) to Keswick 
 (12m.). 
 
 To Eistnerdale Water (Einar, the Dane's Dale), 4m. S. 
 of Loweswater, 8m. from Whitehaven, 5m. from EgTe- 
 mont, 2jm. from Frisington, 12m. from Cockermouth. 
 The Lissa flows into it, and the Ehen issues from it. The 
 routes of approach are, for pedestrians, from Buttermere by 
 Scale Force (2m.), Floutern Tarn (4^m.), Crossdale (6m.), 
 and thence to the Lake (7m.) ; or by Gatesgarth and over the 
 Scarf Gap Pass ; or by Mosedale and Blacksail from Wast- 
 dale Head ; or from Scale Hill, by horsemen, by Lowes- 
 water End (2 fin.), where there are fine views by the way 
 of the Sol way and Scotch mountains, and thence over the 
 Common (3Jm.) ; Lamplugh Church (5jm.), and near an old 
 gate built 1595 ; a road to the left (6m.), mostly an ascent by 
 High Trees and Fell Dyke to Crossdale (8jm.), and thence 
 to the lake, (9 Jin). The other routes are, for pedestrians, from 
 the head of Crummock Water and the north end of Mell- 
 
ROUTE TO LOWESWATER. 175 
 
 break, or from Loweswater, both paths passing Floutern Tarn, 
 l|m. fromBowness ; or from Scale Hill by Crossdale j High 
 Nook (If in.), and over Blake Fell; or a route of 4jm. by 
 following the course of a rivulet on the left at High Nook, 
 and then diverging on the right. The lake is 2Jm. by Jm., 
 backed by veiy high but barren mountains, among which the 
 Pillar, 2893 ft. high, closes the valley over the watershed of 
 Windyett. Near the foot are How Hall Woods, but above 
 the scenery is barren and sublime. At the head, in the glen 
 of the Lissa, is Gillerthwaite, lm. above its head, a narrow 
 tract under cultivation. The boat-house at Anglers' Inn, 
 J m. from the foot, is 2m. from Ennerdale Bridge, (where 
 there is another small inn), and 4m. from Gillerthwaite, being 
 at the foot of the lake. The chapel, rebuilt 1856, retains its 
 old bell of S. Bee. Angling Crag, on the south shore, pro- 
 jects into the lake near its islet. Great Gable, and Pillar, 
 and Steeple, like piers supporting the sky, rise at the head ; 
 Pevelin, Iron, and the fort-like Crag Fell tower on the south 
 over the water, across which is swelling Grassmoor to the left 
 of Angling Crag ; in front are Side and Iron Crag ; Herd- 
 house, on the north, soars over the craggy knoll of 
 Bowness Knot, while lower down is seen the wooded head- 
 land of Whinsey Crag ; beyond, ranging with Herdhause and 
 the Cope, Bed Pike (so called from its ferruginous scarps), 
 with Sour Milk Force between it, and High Stile and High 
 Crag close the view on the east flank of the dale. 
 
 The ascent of Grisedale Pike, 2680 ft. high, on the west 
 of Keswick, is made through Braithwaite (2m.) ; the 
 route may be continued along the ridge to Grasmere, 2756 ffc 
 high, returning by Causeway Pike, easily recognised by 
 its quaint hump, 2040 feet high. 
 
 The ascent of HelveUyn may be made from Wythbum. 
 (See Paterdale and Ulleswater Boutes.) 
 
 To Loweswater, 7m. S. of Cockermouth. — The lake, 
 2m. from Crummock water, is lm. by ^m., and 60 ft. deep, 
 lying in a deep wooded valley, at the foot of a magnificent 
 assemblage of mountains, Mellbreak, Low Fell on the S. 
 and Blake Fell on the N., which rise from its head. The 
 outlet is of a tamer character. The lake contains pike and 
 
176 ROUTE TO PENRITH. 
 
 trout. The circuit for the pedestrian is 7m. There is a 
 good view of this lake, and those of Buttermere and Crum- 
 mock water, from Low Fell, oyer Foul's Dyke and Oak 
 Bank. The little church of S. Bartholomew was built in 
 1827. A house on the left of the road to Scale Hill was 
 an early residence of Lord Brougham. Ennerdale Water 
 is 4m. to the south. 
 
 To Penrith. — The tourist, leaving Keswick, passes Greta 
 Bank (T. Spedding) and Bridge, (Jm.) ; winding along the 
 banks of the river, on the right of the road (ljm.), seated 
 upon an eminence, is a Druid's circle, 108 by 100 feet, a 
 round of 38 stones, some 7 ft. high, with two stones within 
 it on the east side, forming an oblong square. Under one, 
 it is said by the peasants, lies a rich treasure, and no one 
 has ever counted the mystic number of the stones aright. 
 In the old heathen days, in the midst stood a virgin vic- 
 tim, crowned with an oak chaplet, and holding a wand 
 twined around with mistletoe, enclosed in a hut of wicker 
 work, under the eyes of a dense multitude, who gathered 
 the fuel for the horrible sacrifice to the gods. Her lover, 
 speechless and motionless, in horror and despair, saw the 
 wood piled about the door and kindled, and the flames leap 
 madly up like a wall of fire around her. He breathed a 
 prayer to the unknown God, and lo ! a sound of waters, like 
 the voice of great thunders, for every mountain had loosed 
 its cataracts, swifter than the fires, to quench them ; and 
 in a moment the streams poured over the heaps of burning 
 timber, which shot up volumes of steam ; and when the 
 vapours rolled away the waters were gone, and the arch 
 Druid, leading forth the young girl, proclaimed with a loud 
 voice that there should be human sacrifice no more ; and 
 the shout of the multitude awoke the mountain echoes, so 
 that it seemed that the great giants clapped their hands, 
 and made merry. 
 
 On the S.E. is Helvellyn ; on the N. rise Latrigg, like a 
 cub, beneath huge Skiddaw ; to the E. Mell Fell, shaped like 
 a huge British barrow, rifted Blencathra, streaming with 
 torrents, with the valley of S. John ; Nathdale Fells, and 
 the mountains of Borrodale and Keswick, complete the 
 
ROUTES. 177 
 
 magnificent landscape, in which the plain of Penrith is the 
 only level. Is addle Bridge (2|m.) is now crossed [and then 
 at the 3rd milestone, the road to the Valley of S. John 
 from which there is a moimtain road to Ulleswater and 
 Paterdale, 14m.] j next New Bridge (3im.), with The Bed- 
 dings (J. Crosier) on the left, and the Church of S. Mary; 
 the village of TJirelkeld (4Jm.) is then reached ; the road to 
 S. John's Vale diverges on the right, within a short dis- 
 tance of the village. [The Glenderamakin flows through 
 the dale, and on its junction with S. John's Beck is known 
 as the Greta]. Beyond are the ruined towers of Threlheld 
 Hall (now a farm-house), in the time of Henry VII. the 
 residence of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, the stepfather of " Clif- 
 ford's heir," the shepherd lord, where he kept his flocks 
 during twenty-four years, and learned the courses of the 
 stars and their names : a study which afterwards endeared 
 him to the monks of Bolton Priory. Sir Lancelot said he 
 kept three noble houses : Crosby, with its deer park, for 
 pleasure ; Yanwath, near Penrith, for profit and warmth ; 
 but Threlkeld well stocked with tenants, to go with him 
 to the wars. The road winds under the wooded side of 
 Latrigg, and the slopes of Skid daw and Blencathra. 
 
 " On stern Blencathra's perilous heights the winds are tyrannous and 
 strong, 
 And flashing forth unsteady light, from stern Blencathra's skiey 
 
 height, 
 How loud the torrents throng." 
 
 On leaving Threlkeld the huge pyramidal mountain of Nell 
 Fell, formed of conglomerate, and planted with larch, rises 
 in front ; the tourist passes Scales (5|m.) [with the road to 
 Hesketh Xewmarket on the left], over moorish ground, to 
 Moor End (7m.) ; from the hill near the Sun Inn (8m.) 
 there is a view reaching over the valley to the mountains 
 of Newland ; he then passes Springfield (9Jm.), [on the left 
 is a road to Hesketh ; on the right a road skirting Mell 
 Fell to Materdale End and Dockwray, proceeding by Gow- 
 barrow Park to Ulleswater], and leaving the slate region 
 for the district of red sandstone, the village of Penruddock 
 
178 SKIDDAW. 
 
 (ll|m.), [Greystock Castle is 2m. to the left], and crosses 
 (13m.) the road through Dacre to Pooley Bridge, at the foot 
 of Ulleswater (4m.) ; passes the village of Stainton (15±m.) 
 [Dalemain, E. W. Hassell, is l^m. on the left, and (15|m.) 
 the Penrith road to Ulleswater diverges on the left], Red 
 Hills (16 Jm.), and reaches Penrith (18m.). 
 To Skiddaw — 
 
 " What was the great Parnassus' self to thee, 
 Mount Skiddaw ? In its natural sovereignty, 
 Our British hill is nobler far; he shrouds 
 His double front among Atlantic clouds, 
 And pours forth streams more sweet than Castaly." 
 
 The mountain, 3022 feet high, the crest of an upland 
 measuring 8 by 7m., is composed of dark-coloured clay slate, 
 veined with minerals and containing some granite. Souter 
 Fell on the E., Latrigg W., and Blencathra between them, are 
 the southern component parts of this great mountain chain. 
 Skiddaw Forest, rich in grouse but destitute of a tree, lies 
 between Skiddaw (proper), Blencathra and Caldbeck Fells 
 (N.E. rising up into High Pike). The spurs of Skiddaw 
 are Dodd Fell S.W. and Low Man S.E. On the E. and S. 
 the views are exceeded by those from Blencathra, but 
 ladies on ponies can easily scale its summit (6m.) The 
 modes of approach are from Keswick, N., by Applethwaite 
 and Mellbeck; (2.) S.E. from the Castle Inn, Bassen- 
 thwaite, or (3.) the tourist may follow the Penrith road 
 to the turnpike and taking there a road on the left, 
 skirting grey heathery Latrigg, traverses a plantation ; he 
 then turns to the right, and almost immediately after to 
 the left through a gate, keeping alongside a fence for 
 nearly lm., then crosses a sparkling stream in a deep 
 hollow, and by a steep ascent skirts a rude wall for a 
 mile further; then leaving this on the right for a tole- 
 rable road, enters Skiddaw Forest, a broad moor; keep- 
 ing Skiddaw Low Man and its welcome spring of clear 
 water on the left, he passes several men (heaps of stone), 
 and as he ascends observes the plain and lakes below 
 diminishing in size and at times disappearing from view. 
 
VIEW FROM SKIDDAW. 179 
 
 Up the steep craggy path for a mile, along a narrow ridge, 
 past the double peaks of Low Man, then by a beaten path 
 500 yards further, and he stands close to the large pile of 
 stones erected here by the Ordnance surrey or s in 1826. 
 Near the summit the riyer Caldew takes its rise among 
 fragments of shivered slate. Gradually a glorious prospect 
 had been opening out before him, which here reaches its 
 fulness of beauty : the whole dome of the sky is above 
 him, below are the two lakes and the silver circles of the 
 Derwent, the towns of the sea-coast from S. Bee's to Rock 
 Cliff marsh and Solway Firth, that seems a grey horizon, 
 beyond which are the Scotch mountains like lines of dark 
 clouds ; the estuaries of the Leven and Kent over Dunmail 
 Raise ; Penrith Beacon and Cross Fell over High Pike and 
 Long Brow j to the S.E. Ingleborough ; between Saddle- 
 back on the E., and Helvellyn to the S., Place Fell and 
 High St. ; five mountain ranges appear like massive cinc- 
 tures towards the south, a turbulent chaos of huge forms, 
 like the breaking up of a world, range behind range, peak 
 behind peak ; Grisedale ; Barrow Stile End and Outer 
 Side; over the Vale of Newlancls, Bawling End, Causey 
 Pike, Scar Crag, Top Sail, 111 Crags, and Grasmoor over- 
 topping Grisedale Pike ; Maiden Mawr, Dalehead, and 
 High Crag, High Stile and Bed Pike over Cat Bells, 
 Hindsgarth and Robinson ; and last, the range from 
 Coniston to Ennerdale, High Pike, with the Fells, Great 
 End, Hanging Knott, and Bow Fells on its left, and on its 
 right Ling Mell Fells, Great Gable, Kirk Fell (with Black 
 Combe visible between them), Black Sail (part of the 
 Screes and Yewbarrow peeping through the pass), Pillar, 
 Steeple, and Haycocks. Whinfield Fell and Low Fell are 
 to the right of Grisedale Pike and Hobcarten Crag. In 
 very fine weather the Cathedral and Castle of Carlisle, 
 Lancaster Castle, Snowclon, Criffell and the Cheviots, 
 Dumfries, the rugged crags of the Isle of Man, and rarely, 
 and only on a very clear evening at sunset, the dusky line 
 of Ireland may be distinguished. The descent may be 
 made by the pedestrian through Millbeck and the pic- 
 turesque and secluded village of Applethwaite, from which 
 K2 
 
180 ROUTE TO STYHEAD PASS. 
 
 Derwentwater is seen to advantage; or by the horse- 
 man, descending on the north side, and reaching the road 
 near Bassenthwaite (Castle Inn), from which the distance 
 is 8m. to Keswick by the eastern road, 10m. by the western 
 road of the lake. If there is a cloud on the summit the 
 view from Carlside, 600 feet down, on the south side of the 
 ridge, will be found almost the same. Carlisle may be 
 seen from Hullock, which is a little further along the ridge. 
 Charles Lamb vowed the view would make the day that 
 he beheld it stand out like a mountain in his life. On 
 August 21, 1815, Southey here fired his cannon, rolled 
 down the hill balls of blazing turpentine, and lighted his 
 huge bonfire, when Wordsworth, arrayed in a red maroon 
 cloak, upset the kettle of hot water and deprived the party 
 of their expected punch. When mist, a sure sign of rain, 
 rests on the two peaks of Skiddaw's mitre, the folks say : — 
 
 " See Skiddaw has a cap ; 
 Scroffel (Criffel in Dumfriesshire) wots full well of that." 
 
 To Stthead Pass the tourist proceeds by Bosthwaite 
 (6m.), seated in an amphitheatre sheltered in the hills. 
 [Borrodale is here parted into two glens ; that to the right, 
 which is the principal opening, is Seathwaite, and that to the 
 left Stonethwaite, with Eagle Crag above ; it is again sub- 
 divided into Langstreth on the S., leading by the Stake 
 Pass into Langdale, and by Coddle Fell to Ambleside, 
 and into an eastern branch, Greenup, leading by JEasedale 
 Fells to Grasmere.] The tourist follows the course of the 
 Grange Beck, which he at length crosses into the dale, and 
 will find refreshment at the farm-house of Millbeck, 5m. 
 from the Stake. On foot or on horseback he may take his 
 way by Bosthwaite Bridge (6Jm.), Strands Bridge (7m.), 
 and Seatollar Bridge (7|m.). [From the farm-house a 
 mountain road diverges to the right, and keeping under 
 Honister Crag and by the Hause, leads to Buttermere.'] The 
 lead or wad-mine, said to have been discovered owing to the 
 fall of an oak tree, which was torn up by the roots in a great 
 storm, is seen on the side of a hill. 
 
 Years since, one autumn the Groemes came down and 
 
STYHEAD PASS — LEAD MINES. 181 
 
 swept out a herd of cattle over Borrodale Hause, escaping the 
 night guard. They divided into two parties, one with the 
 herds and the other covering the retreat. The men of Cum- 
 berland mounted their prickets and fired the beacons, and 
 not content with recovering the kine, resolved to give the 
 robber Scot a salutary caution. The wary Graemes posted 
 their men among the rocks in the defile between Yewdale 
 and Honister Crag, and, as the dalesmen reached Gatesgarth, 
 opened a fire which killed the Cumbrian chief, who was 
 conspicuous on his white horse. His followers, maddened 
 at their loss, charged, and the young Graeme fell at the head 
 of his men. The Scotchmen sheathed their weapons, and 
 the aged father buried here his son under a cairn, and set 
 upon ijt the bonnet, the sword, and ornaments of the dead, 
 that no one might desecrate the grave. 
 
 This is the only mine of plumbago, a compoimd of iron, 
 and has been dug here for two centuries. The ore appears 
 in a bed of greenstone. The mine lies in the middle of a hill 
 2000 feet high, and is entered by a recess on the left called 
 Gillercombe, and marked by heaps of refuse. A strong 
 building stands over the flight of stairs which afford the only 
 means of access to the mine, and are further secured by a trap 
 door. The miners are divided into gangs, which relieve each 
 other every six hours ; they are searched on coming up by 
 the foreman, to detect any secretion of lead, and change their 
 clothes before leaving. The wad or black lead is packed in 
 casks containing one cwt., which are conveyed down on a 
 light two-wheeled sledge. About a century since there was 
 only a septennial working of this mine, but it is now 
 wrought for several weeks in each year. At the end of 
 each period all the rubbish is wheeled back to the large 
 entrance used for its previous removal and the retention of 
 water, which is now allowed to flood the mine. The doors 
 are then secured till the following year. The shepherds of 
 Borrodale used to mark their sheep with plumbago, which 
 within 20 years was being sold at 405. by the lb. 
 
 The path crosses the stream by a bridge, from which the 
 Hanging Stone (a huge rock) is conspicuous ; and at a little 
 further distance onward, above the copse over Seathwaite, 
 
 N 3 
 
182 ROUTE TO STYHEAD PASS. 
 
 (8|-m.), rise the dark heads of the celebrated Borrodale Yews, 
 u the fraternal pair/' the largest of which is 21 feet in girth. 
 
 " Joined in one solemn and capacious grove, 
 Huge trunks ! and each particular trunk a growth 
 Of intertwisted fibres serpentine, 
 Upcoiling and inveterately convolved, 
 
 a pillar'd shade, 
 
 Upon whose grassless floor of red grown hue, 
 By sheddings from the piney umbrage tinged 
 Perennially, beneath whose sable roof 
 Of boughs, as if for festal purpose decked 
 With unrejoicing berries, ghostly shapes 
 May meet at noon-tide." 
 
 [Here th e road diverges by Scarf Gap and Blacksail Pass 
 to Wastdale Head and Wastwater, 14m. from Keswick.] 
 
 The tourist, if using a carriage, had better drive to Sea- 
 tliwaite, and rejoin his carriage at Buttermere Inn, where 
 the owner should be desired to meet him. Without a car- 
 riage the night must be spent at Wastdale Head. 
 
 From Seathivaite the traveller follows, by a road marked 
 with stones, the course of a rocky, rapid, and turbulent 
 stream up a hill, and crosses Stockley Bridge (9Jm.), (a nar- 
 row structure 6 ft. wide, thrown over the Grange river, 
 which flows down from Esk Hause,) to Derwentwater, with 
 a glittering cascade above and a green pool below the bridge ; 
 he continues to ascend by a winding and laborious ascent, 
 skirting precipitous declivities, and reaches a little level 
 containing Styhead Tarn (ll^m.), fed by a stream from 
 Sprinkling Tarn, which lies above, under Great End, and 
 turning a sharp and sudden corner, in a moment overlooks 
 Wastdale, upwards of 1000 ft. below him, where tremen- 
 dous mountains close round the lake ; he reaches his jour- 
 ney's end at Styhead Pass (12m.), with a fine view over Bor- 
 rodale and Keswick to Skiddaw Vale, 1200 ft. above the sea. 
 The return may be made by Langstreth and Stonethwaite. 
 The roads from Langdale Pikes and Styhead meet on the 
 ridge of Esk Hause, which can be reached by passing south 
 
ULLESWATER. 183 
 
 of Sprinkling Tarn, and eastward up the hill. From Esk 
 Hause he may ascend Scaw Fell Pikes. 
 
 To Ulleswater (10m.) by Penrith road.— The tourist 
 diverges at Springfield (9Jm.) under Mell Fell, and passes 
 through the bleak, desolate upland of Materdale (so called, it 
 is said, by the "booko' bosom priest" from Furness, as he 
 made his orisons to the Virgin -in crossing the dreary tract), 
 and turning on the left by Dockwray, descends by Gowbar- 
 row Park, where he obtains the welcome sight of Ulleswater. 
 In the 1000 acres that compose the rich domain are lawns 
 with fallow deer, undulating copses and fine woods, a glen 
 with a brook dashing over a rocky bed, hawthorns, hollies 
 wound with festoons of honeysuckle, and glorious ferns. 
 Swarth Fell, Hallin Fell, Winter Crag in Martindale, the* 
 bold front of Birk Fell, under the dark crest of Place Fell, 
 now appears, with Red Screes over Bleas and Deepdale 
 Park ; Scandale Head and Dove Crag in Hartshope be- 
 yond j towards the right are Fairfield Birks over Hall 
 Bank, Rydal Head, S. Sunday's Crag (so called from 
 Saint Dominic), Dolly Waggon Pike, Bleabury Fell, 
 Herring Pike, Striding Edge, and the middle ground 
 is occupied by the islet-studded lake, the gorge of 
 Glenridding, and the mountains over pastoral Paterdale. 
 On leaving Gowbarrow Park, Hallin Fell rises over the 
 lake on the right or east shore ; on the west are Skelly 
 Neb and Halsteads (J. Marshall). The scenery then be- 
 comes tame. The coach to Penrith starts from Pater- 
 dale Inn, passing Lyulph's Tower, Ulleswater, and Pooley 
 Bridge. The pedestrian can proceed along the Ambleside 
 road, and at Smalthwaite Bridge diverge to Ulleswater 
 through Glenridding, keeping the lead mine near Glencoin 
 (which the children call " Seldom Seen ") on the left ; [a 
 footpath on the right at the fork of a little stream flowing 
 from Keppel Tarn leads to Helvellyn], he will come upon 
 the lake within a short distance of the Paterdale Inn. 
 
 Another route is by bridle road, diverging at the third 
 
 milestone on the Penrith road, crossing the Valley of S. 
 
 John , the valley of Loivthivaite, and Mater 'dale , joining the 
 
 former road at Dockwray ; the pedestrian follows the 
 
 n4 
 
184 route to s. John's valley. 
 
 Ambleside road for 4fm., and then diverges by the Wyth- 
 burn and Thelkeld road to Stanhow; he now ascends a 
 steep winding path by the side of a beck ; turning at the 
 top of the first rise southward, and after a little distance 
 to the left [where he will see the landmarks to Pater- 
 dale by the lead mines of Greenside in the vale of Glen- 
 ridding] ; the round-headed hill, the Raise or Styx, appears 
 on the right and Whiteside to the south [from the latter 
 he can ascend Helvellyn along a narrow ridge]. 
 
 To the valley of S. John, 13jm., by the coach road to 
 Ambleside, by Castlerigg (lm.), and Smalthwaite bridge 
 (4m.) ; then turning off at Great Stanhow, 4|m. on the left, 
 the tourist passes northward through Wanthwaite to Threl- 
 keld (8|m.), and returns through that village to Keswick 
 (3jm.). Or he may go by the Penrith road, and at the 3rd 
 milestone diverge by bridle path on the right ; or, by a 
 better road, turn off within a short distance of Threlkeld. 
 
 Greta is seen running through the narrow and picturesque 
 valley ; on the left, bounded by Great Dodd, a spur of Hel- 
 vellyn, and on the right by Naddle (Nathdale) Fell, between 
 which and S. John's valley the Chapel of S. John stands 
 on the top of the Pass ; but yet so surrounded by hills that 
 the sun seldom shines upon it for more than one month in 
 the year. The Keswick and Ambleside road is reached after 
 a route of 4Jm. from Thelkeld, from which Keswick is distant 
 9im. by this route (the longer), or of 3m. by the shorter. 
 There are some good views of Thirlmere to be had from 
 Naddle Fell in the vale of Thirls-pot, on the east side of the 
 lake ; and others from the wooded top of Great How, near 
 the high road. The disenchanted Castle Rock, which stands 
 on the left-hand side of the opening of the vale, is the sub- 
 ject of Sir W. Scott's fine description of King Arthur's 
 adventure in the " Bridal of Triermain." 
 
 " With toil the king his way pursued, 
 By lonely Threlkeld's waste and wood. 
 Paled in by many a lofty hill, 
 The narrow dale lay smooth and still, 
 And down its verdant bosom led, 
 A winding brooklet found its bed ; 
 
s. John's valley — patesdale. 185 
 
 But midmost of the vale, a mound 
 Arose with airy turrets crowned, 
 Seem'd some primaeval giant's hand 
 The castle's massive walls had planned ; 
 But the grey walls no banners crown'd; 
 Under the watch-tower's airy round 
 No warder stood his horn to sound, 
 No guard beside the bridge was found." 
 
 " Still when the tourist strays, 
 In morning mist or evening haze, 
 
 Along the mountain lone, 
 That fairy fortress often mocks 
 His gaze upon the castled rocks 
 
 Of the valley of St. John." 
 
 . At the entrance of the sunny, narrow valley is a com- 
 fortable inn, called the King's Head. 
 
 The route by the Penrith road, by the bridle road through 
 the vale, and by Stanhow, jm. from Smalthwaite bridge 
 (7}m.), is about 12|m. to Keswick. The tourist may vary the 
 route by proceeding by Threlkeld, Smalthwaite Bridge, and 
 Castlerigg, and then near Lowthwaite cross Naddle Fell by 
 S. John's Chapel, returning by jSTaddle Bridge. The tourist 
 can also turn off on the lower Penrith road, at the 14th mile- 
 stone from Penrith, and passing S. John's Chapel, enter the 
 Ambleside road at Shaw (3m. from Keswick) ; or he can 
 join the Thelkeld road to Stanhow, passing by Farnside 
 Head and Oak. 
 
 PATEKDALE 
 
 (Geldert's Hotel) extends 5Jm. from Kirkstone Pass 
 to the head of Ulleswater, and receives the stream flowing 
 from the tarns of Hayes and Angle, and from Brothers' 
 Water, and the becks of Grisedale and Deepdale. Its 
 upper gorge has Eed Screes on the left and Codale Fell 
 on the right. Other glens open to the east. Place Fell 
 and Hartshope yield fine blue slate ; near Paterdale Hall 
 the Greenside lead-mine yields large quantities of silver. 
 The secluded village stands among trees and sheltered 
 by mountains in a rocky nook, with corn fields and 
 
186 EOUTES FROM PATERDALE. 
 
 meadows sloping to the lake ; the diverging valleys 
 among the lofty barren hills, with their springs and 
 streams, appear of the brightest green by contrast with the 
 rugged sterility that surrounds them. The village, 10m. 
 N. of Ambleside, 14m. S. of Penrith, and 16m. E. of Keswick, 
 according to tradition derives its name from the Church 
 of S. Patrick, one of the most picturesque in the county, and 
 consecrated by Owen Oglethorpe on his way to crown 
 Queen Elizabeth, when all the other prelates refused the 
 office. The detached tower is saddle-backed, and the style 
 employed in the nave and chancel Decorated. The roofs 
 are of good pitch, and the porch prominent ; the seats, of 
 oak, are open. There is a holy well adjoining. The garth 
 contains a fine yew tree as famous as those of Lorton and 
 Borrodale $ the garth has neither tombstone nor epitaph. 
 At the close of the last century Mr. Mattison died here 
 at the age of 83 years, after holding the curacy during 60 
 years ; his stipend varied from 16/. to 20/., and on it he 
 brought up four children, to whom he bequeathed 1000/., 
 so that Goldsmith's Vicar was indeed "passing rich on 
 forty pounds a year." He was ordained at an earlier than 
 the canonical age, and married eventually the first infant 
 whom he had christened in this church. 
 
 At Old Church the garth retains its yew tree, and like 
 S. Bridget's at Bassenthwaite, 5m. N.W. of Keswick, was 
 hidden in a little inlet in order to escape the sacrilegious 
 hands of the moss-troopers and Scots. 
 
 The excursions to be made from this spot are many : 
 to Ambleside by Kirkstone Pass (10m.) — The road to 
 Ulleswater from Ambleside is a rugged pass, winding 
 along a narrow valley with lofty naked mountains over- 
 hanging it on the left, but from Paterdale the approach 
 is pleasant and easy, lying through level meadows 
 to the headland at Birh Fell ; and to Place Fell Quarry 
 (Jm.) under the precipitous sides and lofty ridges of 
 Dove's Crag, and a cove with a wooded stream, past 
 Hartshope Hall, and on the west side of the lake ; also to 
 Brothers' Water ; or to Deepdale, ±m. S. of the church, a 
 craggy, gloomy recess among the hills, having a wild 
 
ROUTES FROM PATERDALE. 187 
 
 6ylvan grandeur of its own ; up Glenridding, with fields and 
 cottages and woods along its stream, and beyond the en- 
 closures by waterfalls to a grey and solitary tarn in the 
 recesses of Helvellyn. It is a deep, rocky, yet well wooded 
 valley extending from Helvellyn to Ulleswater ; surrounded 
 by Fairfield, High St., Great Dodd, Dove Crag, and Place 
 Fell, 3m. N.W. of Paterdale Church, 8m. S.W. of Pooley 
 Bridge, and 9m. W. of Ambleside. 
 
 To Grise (wild swine) Dale along a wooded steep with 
 some large and ancient hollies, by the banks of a stream 
 into the level valley. To Haweswater, across the Fells ; to 
 Hayeswater (2m. above Hartshope), between Grey Crag 
 and High St. Into Martindale, about 6m. across Deep- 
 dale Beck. It is 5m. S.W. of Pooley Bridge, ll^m. 
 S.W. of Penrith, and 11 m. S.E. of Ambleside, including 
 Borrodale and Fewsdale, and on the S.W. side of Ulleswater 
 from which a chain of hills, with good turf for. feeding 
 sheep, divides it. The chapel was built in 1633. Mr. 
 Hassell has a herd of red deer in the dale, and one of them, 
 alternately with one from Gowbarrow, is taken for the 
 Ingiewood himt during Penrith races. From Martindale 
 the tourist can ascend High St. or reach Haweswater. 
 
 To Grasmere (10m.), for pedestrians up a steep road, 
 through Grisedale Glen, between Helvellyn and Catchede- 
 cam N.W., and S. Sunday's Crag and Fairfield, S.E., where 
 there are lead mines half-way up under Striding Edge ; the 
 tourist takes the path among old hollies and shady trees, to 
 the right of Grisedale beck under S. Sunday's Crag; he 
 crosses and recrosses it, at Grisedale Tarn, on the east side 
 of Seat Sandal, silent and solitary, sleeping coldly in its 
 upland hollow, Birk Fell, Place Fell, seen through the sides 
 of the glen, Newlands on the N.E. ; between Seat San- 
 dal and Helvellyn the hills over and part of Ulleswater 
 are visible. On the summit of the grand but gloomy Grise- 
 dale Pass, the view is very fine over Bow Fell, Scaw Fell, 
 Coniston Fells, and Old Man, and Langdale Pikes. The 
 tourist passes through a gate in the wall that lines the ridge ; 
 the descent is partly steep, partly a gentle slope among 
 farmsteads, and the path enters the turnpike road in the 
 
188 ASCENT OF HELVELLYN. 
 
 large valley fronting Helm Crag above the Swan at 
 Grasmere. 
 
 Ascent of Helvellyn — (Baal's Hill) — 3055 feet above 
 the sea. 
 
 " I climbed the dark front of the mighty Helvellyn, 
 Lakes and mountains beneath me gleamed misty and wide, 
 All was still, save by fits, when the eagle was yelling , 
 And startling around me the echoes replied." 
 
 This mountain, consisting partly of slate and partly of 
 quartzose porphyry, may be reached from the Swan at Gras- 
 mere, and going between Seat Sandal and Fairfield to 
 Grisedale Tarn ; from Wythburn, at the 6th milestone from 
 Keswick, at the King's Head Inn, or at Fisher Place, near 
 Brotto Ghyl Fall, from Legberthwaite both on foot, or from 
 Paterdale. Ponies are available for a great portion of the 
 way by the first and last routes. The coach frorn Ambleside 
 passes within 1| m. of the summit, which rises about half 
 way between Keswick and that town. The vales of Pater- 
 dale, Legberthwaite, .and Grasmere, all converge upon the 
 mountain, which is 3055 ft. high, a mass of slate and flinty 
 porphyry. The ascent from Wythburn is the most direct, 
 but the steepest • the path begins to rise near the Nag's Head ; 
 the tourist must follow the direction of a brook which flows 
 down from Brownrigg's Well, within 300 yards of the Man 
 on the summit of the mountain, and crosses the road about 
 300 yds. from the inn. Under Tarn Crag, on the opposite 
 side of the valley, Harrop Tarn, lm. from Wythburn, is seen 
 on a little tableland of rock. If a guide is taken, then the 
 way by Grisedale Tarn may be followed, entering a gate on 
 the left after crossing Grisedale Bridge, through the farm of 
 Grasset How, towards Bleabury Crag, leaving Striding Edge 
 on the left hand. If unattended, the tourist's better course 
 is to follow the beck which rises in Red Tarn, 2400 feet above 
 the sea, between Swirrel and Standing Edge, through Glen- 
 ridding, 3£m. E. of Ulleswater, lm. N.W. of Paterdale 
 Inn. Both routes meet at this little sheet of water. In 
 either case, if he uses a horse, a further climb of about a 
 half hour will enable him to reach the top : his horse being 
 
ASCENT OF HELYELLYN. 189 
 
 fettered to one of the stakes here provided near the Tarn for 
 the purpose. The grey and glittering Tarn, flashing like a 
 gem, is rimmed in by the hollow, 600 ft. below the summit. 
 
 u A cove, a huge recess, 
 That keeps till June December's snow; 
 A lofty precipice in front, 
 A silent tarn below." 
 
 On the S.E. is Striding Edge, once an eagle's eyrie, a 
 sharp ridge parting it from Grisedale ; by following this 
 ridge, dangerous at all times, and then obscured by snow, 
 Charles Gough, in the spring of 1805, fell down the rock, 
 and after three months was found, and 
 
 ■ " since the day 
 
 On which the traveller thus had died, 
 His dog had watched about the spot, 
 Or by his master's side." 
 
 On the N.W. is Sivirrel Edge, a rocky projection termi- 
 nating in the point of Cat- Sty cam ( u Cat" is a British affix, 
 " the sty on the ridge "). This ridge the tourist follows 
 and reaches HelYellyn Man, a double pile of stones, Jm. 
 apart, where Westmoreland and Cumberland meet. On 
 the W. is a mossy plain, to the E. are precipices, which end 
 in long spurs reaching to Paterdale, and slopes in the re- 
 mainino- directions. From the space between these land- 
 marks the finest view northward is obtained. Six lakes are 
 visible from the Lower Man; Windermere, beyond Fairfield; 
 Ulleswater, with Stybarrow Crag, Gowbarrow Park, and 
 the ridge of Cross Fell in the distance over Penrith ; Esth- 
 waite Water and Morecambe Bay; Thirlmere, Coniston 
 Water, and Bassenthwaite ; and several tarns — bright Angle 
 Tarn, Keppel Cove Tarn under Catstycam, and Eed Tarn 
 below its two ridges. To the S. are Scandale Fell, Dolly- 
 waggon Pike, with S. Sunday's Crag to the left, Seatsan- 
 dal to the right, and Loughrigg Fell intervening. Kirk- 
 stone, Fairfield, and Grisedale Pike ; to the JST. the Scotch 
 mountains over Solway Firth ; between huge Blencathra 
 and Skiddaw, Coniston Fells and Langdale Pikes, flanked 
 by Scaw Fell and Pikes on the left, over Wythburn Head, 
 
190 VIEW FROM HELVELLYN. 
 
 and Great Gable on the right, and Kirk Fell more to the N. ; 
 dreary Black Combe over Wrynose Gap, beyond Steel Fell ; 
 Catbells and Honister Crag ; the hills over Buttermere and 
 Wastdale ; Whiteless and Causey Pike, Pillar and Grasmoor ; 
 those of Troutbeck, Kidsty Pike, High St. and Hill Bell 
 over Striding Edge on the E., and rising above Swarth 
 Fell, Birk Fell, and Place Fell ; to the S. broad Ingleborough, 
 Glaramara and Rosthwaite Carrs ; the grand group reaching 
 from Borrodale to Ennerdale, Gate Crag, Maiden Mawr, 
 overtopped by Dalehead and Great Robinson above Der- 
 wentwater; High Crag, High Stile, Red Pike,' Fleetwith, 
 and the Haycocks. The Isle of Man is sometimes visible 
 over Kirk Fell, and Lancaster Castle beyond Windermere. 
 
 Ascent of High St. (2700 feet above the sea, a moun- 
 tain of clay slate). The tourist takes the route by Low 
 Hartshope to Hayeswater, and ascends by the side of a 
 stream flowing down to the tarn, then turns to the left, and 
 after a short distance reaches the summit (3m.) ,• Thorn - 
 thwaite Crag, a good point of view, a rocky mound, lying 
 below him. Windermere, with its islets, and Gummer How, 
 Blea Water, under the ridge of Long Stile, and Harter 
 Fell over Blea Crag ; Haweswater under Kidsty Pike, and 
 Mardale Green; Place Fell, andHallin Fell; Hayeswater 
 under Grey Crag, a northerly spur of Thornthwaite Crag ; 
 Wetherlam and Coniston Old Man; Hill Bell, Frossick, 
 and Rainsbrow Crag (a part of the Yoke; looking as 
 if they had been cleft down the centre by a battle-axe), 
 Dove Crag ; Helvellyn and Skiddaw ; Cross Fell towards 
 Penrith ; Black Combe ; under Barrow Scar ; the Langdale 
 Pikes, Scaw Fell, Scandale Fell, Rydal Head, Grisedale 
 Pike, S. Sunday's Crag, and Kirkstone are visible ; and often 
 the pale line of the Scottish mountains, the sea over 
 Broughton and Morecambe Bay, Ingleborough and the 
 Castle of Lancaster, may also be seen on a fine day. Scots' 
 Rake on the south commemorates its occupation by 
 Highlanders in 1715 ; a level line of brighter green marks 
 the Roman street (strata) which gave name to the moun- 
 tain, which was long the scene of an annual shepherds' 
 feast of cakes and ale. A line of ridges reaching from 
 
ULLESWATER. 191 
 
 Applethwaite to Thornthwaite Crag is seen dividing the 
 vales of Kentmere and Troutbeck, S.E.; a ridge S.W. 
 extends to Wansfell Pike; and another comprises Dodd 
 and Codale Moor towards Pater dale and Martindale, on 
 the N.W. To the E. is Nan Bield Pass, from Kentmere 
 to Mardale and Bowness. The tourist may descend 
 round the north side of Kidsty Pike, and follow the 
 stream between that hill and White Raise to Mardale 
 Chapel (4jm.) or to Kentmere, passing near the slate 
 quarries under Eainsborough Crag, and thence following 
 the west bank of a stream to the chapel. 
 
 ULLISWA1E?, 
 
 The English Lucerne, 9 by lni., 210 feet deep, and 
 380 feet above the sea, is only inferior to Windermere 
 in point of size. The lake was formerly called Ouse- 
 mere ; when the day is overcast and the air still, the sur- 
 face has u keld," a smooth oily appearance. T. Clarkson, 
 the advocate of the slave, lived at Ousemere Villa, half a 
 mile from Pooley Bridge. It consists of three unequal 
 reaches, divided by headlands j the curve and boldness of 
 the banks, and stern sullen grandeur of the Fells frowning 
 and brooding over them, quite efface any thought of the 
 breadth of the water. There are four islands, House, 
 Moss, Middle, and Cherry Holm. It lies in the very 
 heart of majestic mountains, interspersed with glens, and 
 with sides here clad with waving wood, there consisting 
 of lofty broken rocks ; and in other places bordered by 
 rich meadows. It is famous for the variety of its manifold 
 echoes. The middle reach is larger than that to the north ; 
 the shortest and narrowest, at the foot of the lake, is not half 
 the length of either of the others. The highest reach is, how- 
 ever, greatly superior in grandeur and beauty ; on the left 
 shore the mountains slope down sheer to the water, whilst 
 on the opposite bank the rocks are wooded and less lofty, 
 and sometimes divided from the lake by a green strip of 
 pasture-land. Towards the other end the broken rocks* 
 which guard the entrance of Paterdale are seen. Four or 
 
192 ULLESWATER GOWBARROW PARK. 
 
 five islets, including Moss, Cherry, and Middle Holms vary 
 the lake at this point, which is flanked by Birk Fell and Place 
 Fell, an enormous mass of grey rugged rock, on one hand, 
 and by oak-crowned precipitous Stybarroiv Crag and 
 spurs of Helvellyn on the other. The central and longest 
 reach, nearly two-thirds of the lake, extending to Hause 
 Holm, is shadowed by Stybarrow Crag, which is over- 
 topped by dark Helvellyn on the right and by Birk Fell on 
 the left ; on the east shore of this river-like bend, which 
 Mrs. Eadcliffe compares to the Rhine above Coblentz, are 
 Hallin Fell and Sioarth Fell, dark grey broken precipices 
 almost overhanging the clear water, which mirrors their 
 impending height; and huge naked walls, of rock, fissured and 
 deeply scarred by the winter torrents. At Water Millock 
 the white cliffs are various in shape and colour ; some with 
 deep chasms riven in them, some clad with shrubs, and 
 others just dotted with parched moss and scanty herbage. 
 A grassy margin with scattered copse-wood borders the lake. 
 The lowest reach, 3m. long, dotted with villas, is bounded 
 by Hallin Fell, with a wood at its foot, and by the headland 
 of Shelly Nab, on which stands Hallsteads (J. Marshall). 
 The mountains are of inferior height, but the steep conical 
 hill, Dun Mallet, green as an emerald in summer, and clad 
 in autumn with many-coloured tints, and then so dear to 
 the sportsman, is of interest as having been occupied as a 
 Roman fort, and once covered with a cell of Fumess. 
 
 Gowbaerow Park (P. H. Howard), a noble deer park of 
 1000 acres, on the west shore, contains LyulpNs Toiver, a 
 hunting box built by Charles eleventh Duke of Norfolk; 
 a square grey castellated building, with angular turrets, 
 standing on a green hill, with deep recesses, woods, and 
 lawny glades, rising up to the foot of craggy cliffs behind, 
 and in front a verdant slope of turf to the lake-side, dotted 
 over with groups of fine old forest trees and fringed with 
 copses. Remains of an ancient road from Stone Carr, be- 
 tween Mell Fells, to Gowbarrow Park are yet traceable. A 
 little bridge here spans a stream which, flowing down from 
 -Aira Force, forms a cascade lm. higher up, in a deep and wind- 
 ing rocky dell. Most beautiful is the walk to it, fresh from 
 
EMMA AND SIR EGLAMOUR. 193 
 
 tlie expansive and commanding views which are obtained 
 from the park and tower, over noble timber and water, 
 lovely wild-wood walks, lawns and glades, where the deer 
 troop together and feed. The tourist now, instead of the 
 calm beauty of the lake, sees a noisy brook in summer, 
 frothing, babbling, and tinkling musically as it falls, divided 
 by narrow ledges, only to imite again half-way down, run- 
 ning twiningly round the dark points of rock; but after 
 rain, foaming through masses of black stone, as it gushes 
 down a deep craggy chasm 80ft. high, and plunges into a 
 deep rock basin, grey and dark with the cool shadows of 
 _ ; :S above, and fringed with deep grass and branching 
 fem, from which a rapid and transparent stream issues; 
 clouds of mist-like water are thrown up with concentric 
 rainbows, which brighten and fade alternately, according to 
 the less or greater volume of the spray. Two bridges cross 
 the stream, one above and one below the fall. In Lyulph's 
 Tower, the tower of Of the Saxon, and first Lord of Grey- 
 stock, assassinated by the Xorman servants of Bishop 
 "Walcher, who save name to the lake, lived Emma, the pro- 
 mised bride of Sir Eglamour. The gallant knight had 
 sailed to foreign shores to do some deed worthy of his fair 
 lady ; months and months passed away without tidings of 
 him, and every night the distracted girl went down in her 
 sleep to the holly bower on the side of the waterfall, the 
 tiysrhig place where she had often met her lover, and had 
 bidden him farewell. She was thus reposing, when Sir 
 Eglaniour, who had suddenly returned, passing through the 
 ravine, saw a white-robed figure in the moonlight come out 
 from the well-known bower, and, sighing, drop leaves into 
 the rushing stream. He recognised his beloved, and rushed 
 forward to save her ; his touch awoke her, and in her terror 
 and wonderment on waking she fell into the torrent, which 
 swept her swiftly down. The knight leaped in to rescue 
 her, but when he at length reached and bore out the inani- 
 mate form, it was only to receive and reciprocate her as- 
 surance of love and fidelity before she breathed her last in 
 his arms. In sorrow and bitterness of heart the knight 
 built a cell upon the spot, and died here mourning. About 
 o 
 
194 PENRITH. 
 
 a mile further is another delicious cool nook, near Glencoin- 
 Beckj the line of demarcation between the counties of Cum- 
 berland and Westmoreland ; the trees afford charming sub- 
 jects for the artist ; and the reach of the oval lake, jewelled 
 with rocky islands is equally attractive. Under Stybarrow 
 Crag y where the mountain almost reaches the water's edge, 
 the gallant Monsey of Paterdale Hall, at the head of the 
 dalesmen, repulsed a body of Scottish moss-troopers, and 
 was ever after known as " the King of Pater Dale." The 
 steamer " Enterprise/' of 16-horse power, began in May, 
 1849, to ply between Paterdale Inn and the Sun Inn, 
 Pooley Bridge. 
 
 Pekrith {Red HUT), 6668 (Crown ; George) is a neat 
 clean town, built of red freestone, and seated in a fertile 
 valley, one mile from the meeting of the clear and rapid 
 Eamont and the dusky Lowther, at the junction of the two 
 great north roads (the Peterell and Eden are also in the 
 neighbourhood). Penrith occupied an important posi- 
 tion on the old military road from Lancaster to Carlisle ; 
 within Inglewood Eorest, — once the great and goodly, — full 
 of woods, red deer, fallow deer, wild swine, and all manner 
 of wild beasts of chase ; where Edward I. went out hunt- 
 ing from Carlisle, and on one occasion killed 200 head of 
 deer ; and Scots came poaching, until in 1237 it was finally 
 ceded to England. "William of Orange bestowed the town 
 on his favourite, Bentinck, Earl of Portland. In 1380 
 30,000 Scots sacked Penrith, and again in 1382 and 1385. 
 The last foray was soon after the accession of James I. 
 The Highlanders, imder Mr. Forster, entered the town in 
 Nov. 1715, having frightened, with their mere appearance, 
 a body of 1200 men, drawn up on the Fells by the Earl of 
 Lonsdale and Bishop Nicolson, who refused to move till his 
 coachman, lashing his horses, carried him off the field. In 
 Nov. 18-20, 1745, 3000 men marched in, followed by Prince 
 Charles on Nov. 21. On Dec. 14, the Duke of Cumberland 
 entered the town at the head of his cavalry. Penrith is 18m. 
 from Carlisle, 17 Jm. from Keswick, 26m. from Kendal, 25m. 
 from Ambleside ; Pooley Bridge 5m., Paterdale 15m. 
 
 S. Andrew's Church, of red sandstone, retains it3 an- 
 
PENRITH CASTLE. 195 
 
 cient tower, but it was otherwise partly rebuilt in 1722. 
 Walter de Cantelupe was rector 1223. It contains two 
 chandeliers, given by the Duke of Portland, 1745 ) some 
 stained glass of the loth century ; and a record of the de- 
 structive plague in 1598, which carried off, in Kendal 2500, 
 in Penrith 2260 and in Carlisle 1196. In the garth is 
 the Giant 1 s Grave, two huge stone pillars 14ft. high, co- 
 vered with Runic inscriptions ; they are 15ft. asunder, and 
 taper from a girth of lift. 6in. to 7ft. at top, with four slabs 
 inserted edgeways between them. It has been supposed to 
 cover the last resting-place of u Owen Csesarius," king 
 of Cumberland in the reign of Ida, "the flame-bearer." 
 Near it is a four-holed Gross, about 5ft. high, known as the 
 Giant's Thumb. Never did Sir Walter Scott pass through 
 Penrith without visiting these curious relics, and he kept 
 up the habit, even when on his last journey ; one last look 
 he would take. A new church was built in 1850 on Beacon 
 Hill, so called from a square stone structure rebuilt 1719 
 among plantations 1 Jm. on the N.E. side of the town, which 
 gave name to Ingle (fire-beacon) wood, and commands a 
 fine view of Blencathra, Skiddaw, and Helvellyn, over 
 Ulleswater, Shap Fells, Carlisle, the Scottish hills, and 
 Cross Fell. The view also embraces the border hills of 
 Scotland, and those on the eastern side of the lake coun- 
 ties ; Carlisle Cathedral is also visible. The building was 
 used in times of foray and border feud as a watch tower, 
 and to kindle the signal bales as a warning to the country. 
 
 Peneith Castle, built of red stone, formed a quadrangle 
 with a tower at each angle, with an entrance gate on the 
 east ; the moat remains, the railway skirting its base. The 
 castle was built on the west side of the town by Neville, 
 Earl of Westmorland, in the reign of Richard II. ; was the 
 residence of Richard III. when Duke of Gloucester, and 
 dismantled by the rebels in the civil wars. According to 
 tradition there is a subterranean way to the ruins of 
 Dockwray Castle, 300 yards distant. 
 
 The post is delivered at 7 a.m. and 6 p.m., and is 
 despatched 12.45 to Carlisle, and at 5 p.m» to the north. 
 
 There is a large cairn called Woundale in this neigh- 
 o 2 
 
196 BROUGHAM. 
 
 bourhood, besides two tunnels on the Fells, where there is 
 an oval stone floor, 7 yards by 5, once used as a smelting 
 hearth for iron and lead ore. At Motherby there is a stone 
 circle, 17 yards in diameter; near Whitbarrow field are 
 traces of a camp, called Stone Carrow and Redstone Camp ; 
 there is a square pele 7 c. 1585, at Johnby, and an ancient 
 Way, lm. S.W., near the Keswick road. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are Carleton Hall (J. Cooper), lm. 
 S.E. ,* Ddlemain (E. Hassell), 3Jm. ; Helsteads (J. Marshall) 
 7jm. S. W. -, Huttmi Hall (Sir F. Vane), 5m. Skirs Gill 
 (L. Dent), built 1795, has a famous well, once much 
 regarded by the peasants in the town : lm. from Penrith. 
 
 Beottgham Castle,, so called from the Roman station of 
 Broyoniacum, and immediately from Burgham (fort-town), 
 is If m. from Penrith on the Appleby road, near the meet- 
 ing of the Lowther and Eamont, and jm. from Brougham 
 Hall. Its earliest owner was John de Veteiipont, from 
 whom it passed into the possession of the Cliffords ; at 
 present it belongs to the Earl of Thanet. The square 
 Norman keep has slightly projecting corner towers, with a 
 vaulted oratory of the time of Edward I. on the S.E. angle ; 
 on the N. side are two distinct gateway towers, connected 
 hj another building ; the outer one on the N.E. has corbels 
 and diagonal angle-turrets ; over the archways is Roger de 
 Clifford's inscription, of the time of Edward I., who built 
 the inner gate, " This made Roger," which served for the 
 foundation of an anecdote transferred by the credulous 
 Archbishop Parker to William of Wykeham and the Keep 
 of Windsor. The wall of the outer court has a N.W. 
 tower ; the chapel on the south, retaining sedilia and water 
 drain, stands above a lower room. League tower, the only 
 perfect portion that remains, derives its name from the fact 
 of a truce having been concluded in it by the English and 
 Scotch commissioners. 
 
 In 1412 the Scots captured this lone border fortress ; in 
 it, on Aug. 6-8, 1617, the Earl of Cumberland entertained 
 James I., who next day removed to Appleby. In 1651 Lady 
 Anne, Countess «of Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery, at 
 a cost of 40,000/., restored the castles of Brougham, Appleby, 
 
BROUGHAM. 197 
 
 and Pendragon, but her grandson barbarously destroyed the 
 two castles. Robert Clifford, son of Roger, was Lord High 
 Admiral to Edward II. , and fell at the battle of Bannock- 
 burn, June 24, 1314; Robert, his grandson, fought at 
 Cressy ; John, grand nephew of the latter, and husband of 
 Hotspur's daughter, died at the siege of Meaux ; Thomas, 
 his son, with his men in dresses of white frocks, scaled the 
 walls of Poictiers in a snow storm, and afterwards was slain 
 at St. Alban's, in 1455, by the hand of the Duke of York : 
 and this son John, at Wakefield, killed the duke's son, the 
 Earl of Rutland, and was slain at Dittingdale. Father and 
 son are characters in Shakspeare's Henry VI. Henry, the or- 
 phan son of John, then only 7 years of age, became a shepherd, 
 and kept the flocks of his father-in-law, Sir J. Threlkeld, for 
 24 years j and forsaking alchemy and astronomy at the age of 
 sixty, fought at Flodden Field, after his restoration to the 
 family honours by Henry VII. Creole, third Earl of Cum- 
 berland, was a gallant sailor hi the reign of Elizabeth ; and 
 his daughter Lady Anne, Gray's good Countess, the pupil 
 of Daniel, and the builder of the tombs of Drayton and 
 Spenser, could discourse, says Dr. Donne, of all things, 
 "from predestination to slea silk." Her bold and daring 
 spirit was unbroken by the insolence of Cromwell, and the 
 neglect of Charles II. Wordsworth, Rogers, and Mrs. 
 Hemans have celebrated her filial piety, in the erection of 
 the Countess Pillar, Jm. from Brougham Castle, in 1656, an 
 octagonal column with an obelisk, on the Penrith and 
 Temple Sowerby road, as a memorial of her last parting with 
 her mother, the Countess Margaret, at this spot, on April 
 2, 1616. At Bramery, 2m. from the castle, are Isis Pari is, 
 or the Giant's Caves, the traditional home of the terrible 
 Cumbrian giant Isis. The caves are situated on the N. 
 side of the Eamont, along a narrow ridge ; the first is a 
 small recess, the innermost, capable of containing several 
 people, had formerly a door and window, and retains a 
 massive pillar, which bears marks of hinges and iron gTating. 
 They probably formed a hermitage, or possibly a retreat in 
 case of forage. 
 Brotjgeah (Broham, a corruption of Brovacum) Hall 
 o 3 
 
198 BLENCOWE HALL. 
 
 (Lord Brougham), ljm. S.E. of Penrith, on the east bank 
 of the river, occupies the site of the Homan station of 
 Brovoniacum, which measured 140 by 120 yards ; the 
 vallum may still be faintly traced. The terrace walk over- 
 looks Lowther woods, Clifton, the mountains of Ulleswater, 
 and a level of rich meadow land. This fine situation has 
 procured for it the title of the " Windsor of the North." 
 There are several Roman altars, brought from the station, 
 standing in the outer court, which is carpeted with soft 
 turf, and surrounded by ivied walls. The dining hall, 
 45 by 20 ft. and 20 ft. high, has a tesselated floor, suits of 
 armour, six windows of German glass (1492-1667), and an 
 oak roof heraldically blazoned. The Norman passage, 
 painted with a copy of the Bayeux tapestry, leads to a 
 bed-chamber containing a fine old carved bed which bears 
 the arms of the Talbots. The tapestry and furniture are 
 superb. The Prince ©f Wales visited the Hall, May 18, 
 1857. One wall is of the 12th century, with a Norman 
 arch; another of the 14th, and the entrance gatehouse are of 
 the time of Edward I., battlemented and corbelled. Part of 
 the estate is held by cornage, the blowing a horn to give notice 
 of a Scottish foray, the signal for lighting Penrith beacon, 
 when every balefire was kindled from S. Bee's to Black- 
 combe and Mulcaster Fell ; and along the summit of Skiddaw 
 and Seat Sandal flashed the fiery intelligence to Lancashire 
 and Yorkshire. The original horn is still preserved. S. 
 Wilfrid's Chapel has been superbly restored by Lord 
 Brougham, with richly carved open stalls, stained glass, 
 parcloses, and a reredos, made on the continent. 
 
 The Church of S. Ninian's, Brougham, standing in a 
 lonely dale, and built 1659, contains four brasses dating 
 from 1570 to 1833. 
 
 Ble^cowe Hall, 5m. N.W. of Penrith, and lm. from 
 Greystocke, is an ivied manor-house on the Peterel, com- 
 prising two embattled towers, which are connected by a 
 cm-tain of domestic offices. The S. W. tower, which is rent 
 from the battlement to the ground, has a tower attached to 
 it on the west, shadowed by a venerable plane-tree. There 
 are ruins of a chapel, the well of a baptistery, and a stone 
 
DACRE — EAMONT BRIDGE. 199 
 
 cross. The learned antiquary Dr. Ford was born here in 
 1660, and Lord Ellenborough educated at the school. 
 
 Clieton Hall is a pele tower of late date, 2Jm. on 
 the Kendal road. 
 
 Dacke, 4m. from Penrith and l^m. from Ulleswater, in- 
 cludes Waterfoot (Major Salmon), and Dacre Lodge (Ad- 
 miral Wachope), and was the scene of the homage paid by 
 Constantine, King of Scotland, to King Athelstan in 930. 
 Dacre Castle, now a farm-house, consists of a square battle- 
 mented tower with stair turrets at the angles. The walls 
 are 7ft. thick ; there are two barrel -vaulted rooms in the 
 lower storey; the upper stage is known as the king's cham- 
 ber ; the intermediate storey contained the hall and kitchen ; 
 the present kitchen, formerly the chapel, retains a water-drain, 
 c. 1354. The east front was altered at the close of the 17th 
 century by Thomas, Earl of Surrey. The castle was the 
 feudal home of a grand old family who wore the scallop- 
 shell, and were called after Acre, where the founder of the 
 family displayed signal courage. Here was the residence of 
 the Dacres of the south, the Dacres of the north being 
 settled at Naworth as barons of Greystock and Gilsland. 
 " A Dacre, a Dacre ! " was a famous border cry, and the 
 rising of the north was called Dacre's Raid ; their share 
 in that rebellion and heavy losses in the wars of the Eoses 
 impoverished the family. The church of S. Andrew's, re- 
 paired 1856, was built out of the ruins of a Saxon monastery, 
 and comprises a Norman chancel-arch, a nave with oc- 
 tagonal and round pillars, supporting pointed arches, and 
 the effigy of a knight of the 14th century. The churchyard 
 contains four rude stone figures of the bear and ragged staff. 
 
 Eamo^t Bridge, 4Jm. N.E. of Pooley Bridge. — The 
 tourist may cross jEa??iont Bridge, lm. S. on the Kendal road, 
 turning on the right to Yanwath (ljm. S.E.), having King 
 Arthur s Round Table on the left ; then pass Sochbridge 
 village (2m. S.W.), with a hall of the Lancasters of the 
 15th century, having centre steps ; S. Michael's Church, 
 Boyton (it comprises a central tower and two brasses of the 
 Dacres), being ^m. on the right, and so reach Pooley 
 Bridge (S£m. S.W.). 
 
 o 4 
 
200 EDEN HALL GREYSTOKE CASTLE. 
 
 Eden Hall (Sir J. Musgrave), 4m. N.E., stands in a 
 deer park on the west bank of the Eden. Here is preserved 
 a glass chalice of the beginning of the fifteenth century, 
 green coloured, enamelled, and enriched with a foliated 
 vignette pattern, and marked with the sacred monogram. 
 To this glass, celebrated by Wharton, Whiffen, Uhland, 
 and Longfellow, is attached a legend similar to those re- 
 corded of a pear in a silver box at Coalstown, Lord Dal- 
 housie's seat, and of a glass cup given by Henry VI. to Sir 
 J. Pennington at Muncaster Castle. A servant going to 
 draw water at the well, disturbed a band of fays dancing 
 upon the green margin, who in their flight left behind this 
 ciystal cup, which the man at once seized and would not 
 restore, while the merry-hearted little creatures sang as they 
 went — 
 
 " If that glass should hreak or fall, 
 Farewell the luck of Eden Hall." 
 
 S. Cuthbert's Church comprises a nave, with a good and 
 rich open timber roof, a Norman chancel arch, and a west 
 tower with a low stone spire, a brass, with effigies of W. 
 and M. Stapleton, 1458. 
 
 Grey Stoke Castle "(P. Howard), 5m. N.W. on Hes- 
 keth Newmarket road, standing in a park of 6000 acres, 
 was built by William Lord de Greystoke in 1354. It was 
 garrisoned by cavaliers for the king, but was taken by the 
 rebels in June 1648. " Cromwell's holes " still point out 
 the position of their batteries. The Castle was almost re- 
 built by Hon. C. Howard, and Charles eleventh Duke of 
 Norfolk, and has been restored by Salvin. It stands on the 
 S.E. side of the park, on a steep bank over the Peterel. The 
 hall is hung with armour and several fine antlers, one pair 
 weighing 42 lbs. Adjoining is the long gallery, containing 
 family portraits. The library contains a richly carved oak 
 mantel-piece, with sculptures of Jephtha's daughter and of 
 Samson and, Dalilah. Among the pictures are portraits of 
 Erasmus, Thomas, fourth Duke, beheaded 1572, and War- 
 ham, by Holbein ; Henry, Earl of Surrey, beheaded 1546, 
 by Sir A. More; Henry, sixth Duke, and Lady Catherine 
 
LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS. 201 
 
 Howard, by Vandyke ; Bernard, twelfth Duke, by Pickers- 
 gill ; Charles I., by Mytens ; Mary Queen of Scots, James 
 I. and II., Charles II., Prince Charles Edward, besides 
 Views of Venice by Canaletti, Killarney by Glover, Ulles- 
 water by Hoflancl, Rome by Wilson; old armour and carved 
 oak, a piece of silk embroidery representing the crucifixion, 
 by Mary Queen of Scots; and a large white hat of Thomas 
 a Becket. Anne Dacre, Coimtess of Philip Earl of Arundel, 
 transferred Greystocke from the Dacres to the Howards. 
 The Church of S. Andrew, chiefly Perpendicular, was made 
 collegiate in the fourteenth century. It comprises a nave 
 with round pillars and pointed arches, Transitional Norman, 
 an oak roof, 1645, a chancel-screen and good stalls, three 
 sedilia, with fragments of old glass, brasses dated 1451 and 
 1547, and a blue stone slab of William Lord Greystoke, 
 1359. Bishops Whelpdale and Law have been rectors here. 
 There are two Jacobsean farm-houses — Greystocke Mid 
 and Greenthwaite. 
 
 Htjtton John, 5Jm. W. of Penrith, and 3Jm. from 
 Ulleswater. The original square pele, which received many 
 additions in 1666 from the Huddlestones, stands at the head 
 of the rich and beautiful valley of Dacre, commanding good 
 views of the mountains round Ulleswater and of Mell Fell. 
 It contains a clock given by the Princess Mary to her god- 
 daughter Miss Hutton, and a portrait of Father Huddle- 
 stone, 1685, by Houseman. It formed the last of a chain 
 of border castles in the valleys of the Eamont and Eden. 
 A tale like that of the Horn of Egremont is attached to this 
 old town. 
 
 King Arthur's Round Table, ljm. S., probably a 
 tilting ground, is a circle, twenty yards in diameter, enclosed 
 by a fosse and mound, and having two entrances. There 
 was formerly a second circle at a distance of 400 ft. 
 
 Long- Meg and her Daughters, 6m. N.E. — The great 
 slab in the cloisters of Westminster, above the grave of an 
 abbot and forty monks who died in the plague, is called 
 Long Meg, and the ancient cannon in Edinburgh Castle and 
 in Ghent bear the name of Mons Meg, apparently a prover- 
 bial name for any object larger than ordinary. This vast 
 
202 LOWTHER CASTLE. 
 
 circle, which the peasants attributed to Michael Scott, stands 
 on an eminence near Little Salkeld, commanding views of 
 Crossfell, Helvellyn, and Blencathra, and is 350 ft. in cir- 
 cumference, consisting of 67 crystalline stones, some of them 
 10 ft. high, enclosing four in the form of a square, and two 
 others detached. Long Meg, "the giant mother of masses, 
 strength, and stature," is a square unhewn pillar of red 
 freestone, 18 ft. high and 15 ft. in circumference, placed 
 apart on the south side at a distance of 15 paces. 
 
 " A weight of awe, not easy to be borne, 
 Fell suddenly upon my spirit — cast 
 From the dread bosom of the unknown past 
 When first I saw that family forlorn." 
 
 This stone pillar probably once marked the centre of the 
 great Caledonian Forest. 
 
 Lowther Castle (Earl of Lonsdale), (3m.) stands in 
 a park of 6000 acres, and was built of pale freestone by 
 Sir K. Smirke in 1802, on the site of a former building 
 burned down in 1720. Lord Macartney suggested the 
 site from its similarity to Gehol, the domain of the Emperor 
 of China. The north front is castellated, and 420 ft. long, 
 the southern front, 280 ft. long, is of collegiate cha- 
 racter. 
 
 " Lowther, in thy majestic pile are seen 
 Cathedral pomp and grace, in apt accord 
 With the baronial castle's sterner mien : 
 Union significant of God adored 
 And charters won, and guarded with the sword 
 Of ancient honour." 
 
 The furniture and carvings are of oak and birch, the great 
 staircase, 60 ft. square, and 90 ft. high, leads to the tower, 
 from the summit of which there is a fine view over the 
 Vale of Lowther and Helvellyn, Blencathra, Seat Sandal, 
 and Skiddaw. The saloon measures 60 by 30 ft., the library 
 40 by 30 ft. The collection of pictures includes works by 
 G. Dow, Teniers, Ostade, Brouwer, Van der Velde, Le 
 Nain, N. Poussin, Holbein, Valentin, Wouvermans, Jan 
 Steen, Lely, Sir J. Lawrence, and Jackson ) besides the 
 
MAYBTJEGH. 203 
 
 following, Boys eating fruit (Murillo); S. Francis, (S. Sebas- 
 tian) ; S. Jerome (Guido) ; S. Mary Magdalen (Sirani) ; 
 a Martyr, a Magdalen (Titian) ; Madonna (Sasso Ferrato) ; 
 Charity (Van Dyke) ; S. John Baptist (S. Kosa) ; Adora- 
 tion of the Shepherds (Bassano) ; Belisarius (Rembrandt) ; 
 Duke of Monmouth (Dobson) ; Mr. Pitt (Hoppner) ; a cast 
 in silver of the Wellington shield ; and busts by Chantrey 
 and Westmacott. There is a beautiful walk along the 
 banks of the clear and swift flowing Lowther, under fine 
 forest trees, known as the Elysian Fields, reaching from 
 Askham to the bridge under Brougham Hall, where Words- 
 worth loved to wander as a boy, and Southey took 
 heart for the prospects of modern architecture, when he 
 saw the castle's 
 
 u stately walls, 
 
 The pinnacles, and broad embattled brow 
 
 And hospitable halls." 
 
 There are fine views towards Askham, and woods over 
 which rises Penrith Beacon, from the north terrace, 500 
 by 90 ft., and from the Lowther terrace, 1000 ft. on the 
 S.W. over the Lowther. Among the Lowthers occur an 
 Attorney-general of Edward III., Sir Hugh, who fought at 
 Agincourt ; Sir Richard, who escorted Mary Queen of Scots 
 from Workington to Carlisle ; and figures in Sir W. Scott's 
 a Abbot j " Sir John, the partisan of William of Orange, and 
 James "the bad lord" and millionnaire, who rode through 
 the streets of Penrith in a shabby coach drawn by ill- 
 groomed horses. 
 
 Maybukgh, an amphitheatre 90 yards in diameter, with 
 a sloping mound of loose pebble stones, 8 — 10 ft. high, 
 and 60 ft. wide at the base, overgrown with ash-trees and 
 sycamores ; in the centre is a boulder stone 11 ft. high and 
 25 ft. in girth. On the E. is the entrance, 12 yards broad, 
 once fenced with 4 large columns. The burgh formed 
 a square with three other pillars, now removed. Sir W. 
 Scott describes how King Arthur 
 
 " Pass'd red Penrith's Table Bound, 
 For feats of chivalry renown'd ; 
 
204 PENRITH TO CARLISLE. 
 
 Left Mayborough's mound and stones of power, 
 By Druids raised in magic hour, 
 And traced the Eamont's winding way, 
 Till Ulfo's lake beneath him lay." 
 
 Whinfell Forest, long disparked (4m.). Here, on the 
 E. side, stood the fine old oak known as the Hartshorn 
 tree. In 1333 King Edward Baliol was the guest of 
 Robert de Clifford at Appleby, Brougham and Pendragon ; 
 they coursed a stag with a single hound named Hercules, 
 from this spot to Redkirk in Scotland and back to their 
 starting point ; the stag leaped the pales and fell dead, the 
 dog died in attempting the leap. The antlers were nailed 
 up on the oak-tree, and the bark grew over the roots of the 
 horns. In 1648 a rebel soldier tore down one of the branches, 
 and its fellow was taken away within 10 years after. 
 Julian's tower, at the extremity of the tract, was the site 
 of the bower of a dame light o'. love beloved by Roger de 
 Clifford. The " three brothers," a group of superb oaks, 
 have long since disappeared. 
 
 Yanwath Hall, near the Haweswater road, is a square 
 building of the 14th century, at the north end of the village, 
 and now a farm-house. The fourth side is modern. The 
 wooded bank behind the tower slopes steeply down to the 
 Eamont. The hall on the south was almost rebuilt in the 
 15th century, with a bay window now appropriated to the 
 parlour. Besides a small N.W. watch tower, there is on 
 fS.E. a large battlemented tower of three stories, the lower- 
 most having a barrel-headed vaulting, the middlemost with 
 an Elizabethan ceiling, and the uppermost retaining traces 
 of wall painting of the 16th century; it retains an octagonal 
 corner watch turrets and an octagonal chimney. The hall 
 was the residence of the Whelpdales. 
 
 Penrith to Carlisle. — The railway passes through a 
 flat and uninteresting country by the following stations : 
 Plwnpton (13m.), Southtvaite (7m.), and Briscoe (3m.), from 
 Carlisle. Near the latter (Birksheugh, the beech wood), is 
 Newbiggin Grange (H. Aglionby), a fortified tower, with 
 walls 9 ft. thick, built by the priors of Carlisle 1553. 
 
 Penrith to Alston and the Neighbourhood.-— The 
 
PENRITH TO ALSTON. 205 
 
 road passes near Edenhall (2im.), Longwathby (4m.), Mel- 
 merby (8m.), (Melmer, the Dane's town), which contains two 
 mineral springs, one chalybeate and the other sulphureous, 
 under the mountain (fm. distant). S. John the Baptist's 
 Church retains an incised slab and part of a cross. Hart- 
 side Fell and Cross Lands (Alderstown 16m., to Alston,) 
 (17m.), with S. Augustine's Church, built 1796. In the 
 neighbourhood are Nent Force on the Leven, a subterra- 
 neous canal 5 feet in length ; Hall Hill, near Tyne Bridge ; 
 with remains of a moated building, and Tutman's Hole, a 
 large cavern in Gilderdale Forest. By diverging at Mel- 
 merby the tourist can visit Ousby (Ulfstown), 8 Jm. N.E., 
 where S. Luke's Church contains the oaken effigy of a knight 
 of Crewgarth, said to have been slain while marauding at 
 Baron Side, and tj|ree stone sedilia. T. Robinson, author of 
 the Natural History of the County, was rector, 1762-1719. 
 There are traces of a double rampart and ditch enclosing a 
 pentagonal area. Ulf, Melinor, and Thorkil, who gave 
 names to villages in the neighbourhood, are said to have 
 been sons of Half dene. At Lynestead, on the branch road, 
 are the foundations of a Roman road a yard square, and the 
 fragment of a cross, c. 1123. The tourist can then proceed 
 to Kirklancl, near which are Skirwith Abbey, occupying the 
 site of a Templar's grange, and traces of a Boman camp of 
 the 20th Legion. The Maiden Way is conspicuous at Bank- 
 ridge Common, Jm. E. of Blencairn ; and in a field at Wy- 
 thwaite Common, about 200 yards E. of the road, are the 
 " hanging walls of Mark Anthony ; " three terraces, 200 
 feet long and 15 feet high, with a level space on the top, 
 10 yards wide, called Baron's Hill, and retaining traces of 
 an ancient building. Cross Fell, or Kirkland Cross Fell, 
 10m. N.E: of Penrith, is 2901 feet high, and derives its 
 name, according to tradition, from the cross erected by 
 S. Augustine to drive away the mountain demons. The 
 mossy summit, which is nearly always covered with snow 
 and clouds, is composed of loose white freestone, and of 
 limestone at the base, which is 20m. in circuit. The de- 
 structive Helm wind is preceded by the appearance of a 
 white cloud, with a bold broad front like a brow of ice, and 
 
206 ADDINGHAM KIRK-OSWALD, 
 
 then a prodigious roar of the loosened winds succeeds ; some- 
 times a second cloud rises at a distance of Jm. to 5m., known 
 as the Helm Bar. The Tees rises on the slope of the moun- 
 tain, and for the first few miles of its course forms the 
 boundary of Cumberland and Westmoreland. It is joined 
 by the Trent and Crook Becks, and then separates Durham 
 from Westmoreland. 
 
 From Long Wathby the tourist may visit S. Michael's,, 
 Addingham, 2im. S.E. of Kirkoswald, where Archbishop 
 Nicholson and W. Paley have been vicars j it retains a Norman 
 chancel arch, and on the S. side a four-holed cross. Long 
 Meg is in this parish. He can then proceed to Kirk- 
 Oswald, on the Leven, 6m. from Plumpton, 8m. N.E. of 
 Penrith, 15m. S.E. of Carlisle, and seated on a hill above 
 the Eden; the village was burned byJD. Bruce in 1341. 
 Some ruins remain of the castle, built 1201 by E. Engayne 
 on the site of a house to which Hugh de Moreville, Lord 
 of Westmoreland, one of A Becket's murderers, is said to 
 have retreated before he went as a pilgrim to Jerusalem, 
 where he died, and was buried in front of the temple three 
 years after his crime. Possibly he is confounded with 
 Hugh de Moreville, Lord of Burgh. The castle communi- 
 cated with S. Oswald's Charch, which was made collegiate 
 in 1523 by B. Threlkeld, who built the chancel. The nave 
 is Transitional Norman. The church, which is approached 
 "by an avenue, contains the e&igy of a man, and the monu- 
 ment of Sir T. Featherstonhaugh, the cavalier, who was 
 beheaded by the rebels at Chester, 1651. Portions of 
 the College remain. The tower stands on a conical hill 
 200 yards distant. A spring flows under the church. 
 Both were used in time of danger. [By going still fur- 
 ther N., S. John the Baptist's Church, Croglin (13m. 
 from Penrith, 5m. from Kirk-Oswald), partly Early English, 
 with a rare stone cross having a cross fleury and braced 
 pattern, may be visited, as also Ai-nstable, 3jm. N. of Kirk- 
 Oswald. The Nunnery (H. A. Aglionby), built 1715, stands 
 on the site of a Benedictine convent founded by William 
 Rums, of which a portion of wall, and a pillar cross in Cross 
 Close, inscribed " Sanctuarium," 1088, remain. Here th e view 
 
PENRITH TO HAWESWATER. 207 
 
 of the Croglin is very fine, as it pours down into a dell by a 
 fall of 40 feet, and then rushing through a chasm and 
 narrow opening, leaps over moss-coloured rocks in cascades 
 under piles of rocks 200 feet high, shaggy with wood, 
 spotted grey with lichen, and green with luxuriant ivy.] 
 The return may be made by Lazonby (lm. from Kirk-Os- 
 wald, 7m. N.E. of Penrith, 4Jm. from Plumpton St.), with 
 its church of S. Nicholas. Near it the Roman military way 
 to Carlisle is passed, and in Baron's Wood, full of noble oaks, 
 is a cave called Sampson the giant's chamber. There are 
 traces of a Roman camp at Castleriggs. Lazonby Hall (Col. 
 Maclean) is lm. distant. Next is Salkeld, the birth-place 
 of Lord Ellenborough, 1749, and of Sir R. Whittington, 
 thrice Lord Mayor of London. The bells which he designed 
 for this church, of which Paley, 1782-1805, and Bishop 
 Law were rectors, are at Stephen Kirkby. S. Cuthbert's 
 Church has a strong tower four stories high, with a massive 
 iron-grated door and fire-place of the time of Richard II., 
 the walls being 6 feet thick. The tower of Newton Arlosh 
 is earlier, having been built 1809. There are effigies of 
 Archdeacon Thomas, c. 1345, and of a knight ; and some 
 portions of armour, with a helmet and breastplate, are pre- 
 served. Corry Hole in the tower was a priest's dungeon. 
 The Norman nave is of four bays; the chancel contains 
 three aumbries and an incised slab of the 13th century. 
 Near Salkeld Dyke are remains of an intrenchment, 400 feet 
 long and 12 feet wide, and Jm. distant is Aikbon Castle, 
 built of rough stones near a tumulus. Nunwick Hall 
 (R. W. Saunders) is in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Pekrith to Haweswater. — The carriage road is by 
 Shap ; and thence by Rosgill and Bampton, 5m. ; the nearest 
 way is through Yanwath, Askham, Helton, and Bampton, di- 
 verging at Yanwath from the Penrith and Pooley Bridge 
 road, and crossing Tirrel and Yanwath moor to Askham, 5m. \ 
 it is then continued by Helton (6m.), and Bampton (9m.), 
 and 3Jm. N.W. of Shap. Rosgill is 1 Jm, distant. (Bishop 
 Gibson was bom at Lligh Knipe, lm. N.), Hawesiuater is 
 13^m., and 8m. from Pooley Bridge. This lake, 3m. by im. 
 and 443 feet above the sea, possesses a solemn grandeur. 
 
208 HAWESWATER. 
 
 The steeps on the E. shore are richly feathered with the wild 
 woods of Naddle Forest. On the W. shore near Measand 
 Becks, near Fordendale Nook, about lm. from the foot of the 
 lake, it is divided by a wooded promontory of meadow land, 
 leaving only a strait of 300 yards wide ; on the S.W. side is a 
 range of bold and prominent hills, including Long Stile and 
 Hill Bell, the tops of Kidsty Pike and Castle Hill jutting out 
 into a bold bluff in the centre ; at the end of the second or 
 southern reach, Castle Crag, and the gloomy buttress of 
 Harter Fell appear ; and here, at the entrance of a rock-girt 
 glen, is Mardale Chapel. On the left is Wallow Crag, in 
 which, according to the legend, is immured the spirit of Sir 
 J. Lowther, the first Earl, after being the richest commoner 
 in England, and who was so stern that the streets of Penrith 
 were silent as he traversed them, and an awe sat upon many 
 faces. The restless ghost is said to have haunted the dales 
 until the vicar of Bampton with cunning exorcism confined 
 it in this rock prison. Eels, char, trout, and skillies may be 
 caught. Boats, the property of the Earl of Lonsdale, are 
 lent on application to the gamekeeper, who lives in a road- 
 side cottage lm. from the foot of the lake. On proceeding up 
 the lake, which is fed from Sniallwater and Bleawater 
 tarns, lying under High Street, the latter with the ridge of 
 Long Stile, the peak of Hill Bell, Castle Hill and Welter 
 Crag, Kidsty Pike, Lathel, and Harter Fall are seen 
 clustered round the head of the mere, and the little vale of 
 Mardale. About lm. from the lake on the roadside is 
 Mardale Chapel, near Chapel Hill, so called from an oratory 
 built by Udolph Holme, on the site now occupied by his 
 descendant's house. The first Holme, a Swede of Stock- 
 holm, and a follower of William I., obtained land in North- 
 amptonshire, in the reign of King John. Hugh, then the 
 head of the family, being compelled to fly for his life, took 
 refuse in the ravine seen on the N. from Mardale Green 
 Inn, marked out by its sycamores and poplars, Dun bull 
 (lm. from the water), under Eiggendale Crag, and still 
 called Hugh's Cave. Mists frequently gather over the fell3 
 and Sallet Brow, obscuring the outlet. Mardale is 5|m. 
 S.W. of Bampton, 9^ from Shap, 15 S.W. of Penrith, and 
 
HAWESWATER TO PENRITH. 209 
 
 6m. from Swinedale. Biggendale is a romantic glen between 
 Kidsty and High Pike, long famous for a fox-hunt on 
 Whitsun-Monday. 
 
 The return may be made to Penrith, (15m. ), through Butters- 
 wick (4ni.), by a rough road over Moor Dovack, or by another 
 route to Askham, and thence to Pooley (9m.) ; to Kendal 
 (15m.) from Mardale Green, by Gatesgarth Pass and Long 
 Sleddale to Troutbeck Inn (6m.) ; over High St. to Pater dak 
 by crossing the Martindale fells ; to Kentmere (6m. ), over 
 Nan Bield Pass, 2^m. from Mardale Green, between High 
 St. and Harter Fell. The way lies by Smallwater Tarn, 
 along Kentmere Tongue, a ridge dividing the dale, and at 
 Kentmere Chapel admits of two routes by carriage to 
 Staveley and Kendal, or by turning to the right over the fell, 
 near Kentmere Hall, and then crossing Applethwaite Com- 
 mon, to descend near Jesus Chapel at Troutbeck, whence 
 the tourist can reach Bowness or Ambleside ; or he may go 
 by Biggendale into Troutbeck over High St. 
 
 On the road to Hesketh Newmarket, near which are copper 
 mines, Catterlen is passed (3m.), adjoining which is the Hall, 
 a square pile ; Hutton (6m.) is near Hutton Park. At Upper 
 Row, on the Common, are traces of Collinson's Castle, 100 
 yards square, with a ditch 30 ft. wide. Stone hand-querns 
 have been dug up in it. There was a camp upon Elfa Hills, 
 and Charles II., in 1651, drank of Collinson's Well here. 
 At the 10th milestone is a road diverging southward to 
 Castle Sowerby, 2m. from Hesketh, 11m. from Penrith, 10m. 
 from Carlisle. The Castle Hill has approaches on the N. 
 and W., surrounded with a circular ditch 18 yards in dia- 
 meter, and with an entrance 3 ft. wide. It was called the 
 Bed Spears, because the owners by their tenure were bound 
 to ride through Penrith streets on Whitsun-Tuesday brand- 
 ishing red spears 9 ft. long, appearing as the champions of 
 their lord or as challengers of any enemy. It once stood in 
 an oak forest. On Carrock Fell (3m.) is an oval enclosure 
 and a stone man. How Hall has a circular enclosure 
 of stone and earth 21 yards in diameter. Castle Steads, 
 im. from Stocklezuath, measures 188 by 160 ft. within a 
 double vallum. Within ^m. are two other camps, White 
 p 
 
210 KIRKBY-STEPHEN TO PENRITH. 
 
 Stones and Stone Raise. To the S.W. of Broadfield, and lm. 
 further, are traces of a Druidical circle with an area 63 ft. 
 in diameter ; about 165 yards south of it is a rocking-stone 
 23 ft. 9 in. in diameter, once approached by a stone avenue. 
 On the Caldbeck, ^m. below Hesketh Newmarket, is the 
 Howk, a waterfall running down under a natural bridge. 
 The Fairy Kirk, 54 ft. long, is a cave in the limestone rock ; 
 and after rain a cascade, 60 ft. high, falls into the basin, 
 called the Kettle. 
 
 Kirkby-Stephen to Penrith. — The road crosses the 
 Eamont Bridge, and passes by Brougham Castle (Jm.), 
 [Skirsgill is to the left, Brougham Hall and Lowther 
 Castle are on the right], then crosses Eden Bridge, and 
 enters Temple Sowerby (6Jm.), so called from having been 
 the property of the Knights Templars, passes by Kirkby 
 Thore (8im.), which takes its name from the Saxon idol 
 Thor. Kirkby is a village near the meeting of the Trout- 
 beck and Eden, with an early English Church of S. John, 
 and a sulphureous spring called Pott's Well. 
 
 Maiden Way (the raised road; madien, an eminence, 
 Saxon.) The Maiden Way came from Kirkby Thore, in 
 Westmoreland, to Carvorran station, and threw out a branch 
 to Birdoswald. It may now be traced from Birdoswald 
 northwards over a country known as that of the British 
 Apennines, from its lofty hills of white freestone, mixed with 
 beds of limestone and ironstone, and seams of coal, a land 
 abounding in chalybeate, petrifying, and sulphureous springs, 
 huge heather-coveredheights of every fantastic shape, in places 
 softening into gently rising eminences, with torrents and cas- 
 cades foaming and thundering down the steep sides into 
 deep narrow glens, and then quietly threading, in fertilising 
 streams, winding valleys, and soft plains. Starting from 
 the N., or Praetorian Gate, the road passes over a peat moss 
 towards Little Beacon tower, over Waterhead Fell, where the 
 only sounds are the wail-like whistle of the plover, the 
 curlew's scream, and the loud whirr of the grouse rising to 
 the wing ; a ditch accompanies the road from this point to 
 the Scottish border. It next crosses the ravine through 
 which the rapid river King brawls along, then by Spade 
 
LITTLE BEACON TOWER. 211 
 
 Adam farm, and a mile-castle seated in the uplands amongst 
 heath and fragrant thyme, and yellow-starred tormentil, and 
 mosses of every variety, and near the Twin Barrow, two 
 large conical cairns of peat covered with heather, 35 yards 
 apart. Three other barrows lie at a little distance off in 
 Askerton Park. 
 
 Little Beacon Towee, a mountain post for an out- 
 lying picket, 18 ft. square with walls 3 ft. thick, Jm. W. 
 are the foundations of the Beacon raised by the Wardens of 
 the Marches at the close of the 13th century. There is a 
 very grand and extensive prospect over Cumberland and 
 the adjacent counties, with a rich interchange of hill and 
 dale. At the distance of another Am. is Tower Brow, with 
 remains of a stone rampart 35 yards square, and a tower 15 
 by 8 yards, (2m. N.W.). Near Birkbush are small mounds 
 full of black slag, where centuries since smelting furnaces 
 were erected, and over all the hills adjoining are the round 
 hampits of British villages. At Brown Knowe, from which 
 a cairn 20 yards in diameter on Tower Brow is distant 300 
 yards, the way turns sharply to the N.E. The view is 
 bounded by the silver line of the Solway and the mountain 
 wall, 50m. long, that divides England from Scotland ; down 
 in the hollow to the N. lies Bewcastle. From the rough 
 heather strewn with grey stones it now descends into that 
 pleasant valley, passing the remains of Side, a mile-castle, 
 once a two storied tower, near which among the ferns are the 
 ruins of a Roman bakery. After throwing off a branch 
 by Bewcastle Station to Tirnieshill in Scotland, it reaches 
 Dollerline, another mile-castle, [the other way, " de altera 
 linea," which branched off at Side Fell here joining it 
 again], washed by the Kirkbeck, which it crosses ; three 
 small caims adjoin it. A plain well adapted for field exer- 
 cise extends from this point, with a pretty waterfall and 
 two glens, through which the Kirkbeck and Greensburn 
 flow among rough banks clad with hazel and coppice, and 
 under white freestone cliffs. The way now passes Braes 
 Tower, another camp-fort 70 yards N. and S. by 60 yards 
 E. and W., where a branch turns off to join the Wheel 
 Causeivay from Crewe, lm. W, is a modernised pele ; 
 p 2 
 
212 
 
 APPLEBY. 
 
 now a farm-house, near the Cairn o' the Mount, 80 by 8 
 yards, like the oval ship mounds of Sweden, and perhaps 
 the grave of a Viking, over whom barrows in the shape of 
 inverted ships were ordinarily made ; thick woods seclude 
 the spot. The way passes the Grey-hill Beacon, and tra- 
 verses Ashy croft Cleugh, a winding lonely glen with rugged 
 crags and abrupt banks ; another hill camp, 22 yards square, 
 is passed before reaching Crewe Toiver, with earthworks 70 
 yards N. and S. by 40 yards E. to W., and the remains of 
 a border tower 8 by 5 J yards, once the stronghold of Hob- 
 bie Noble the freebooter, and another older ruin [400 yards 
 to the N.E. is Anton's town (Antonini ?), an earthwork 
 70 yards long]. The way now crosses the White Lynn, by a 
 mile-castle, and Shield Knowe, a large cairn having three 
 diverging barrows \ next it crosses the deep and rugged 
 Kettle Syke by the Cross, an ancient mile-castle ; then the 
 Beck and Back Lynn river, [near the ruins of three forts 
 guarding the fords, the Roman camps, ^m. W. and Camp 
 graves'] ; the way passes by a petrifying spring rising up 
 through limestone tufa, by a mile-castle 15 yards square, 
 and by Skelton Bike, a rude pile of stones, and within a Jm. 
 of the Curragh, a large cairn once 45 by 20 yards and 10 ft. 
 high ; then within view of Davidson's Monument, close to 
 the Smuggler's Road, where an honest gamekeeper was 
 murdered, Nov. 8th, 1849 ; and by Curragh Loch, a moss- 
 grown pond in which lies a chest of gold that can never be 
 removed except by two twin lads, two twin horses, and two 
 twin oxen pulling all together. Green Knoive, the site of 
 another mile-castle, is the last object of interest before the 
 Maidenway enters Scotland, through the wild and barren 
 Kershope Bass. The next village is Crackanthorpe flOf m.), 
 where there are ruins of S. Giles' Chapel. The tourist 
 then reaches 
 
 Appleby (12 Jm.) on the Eden, 21m. N.E. of Kendal, 10m. 
 N.W. of Kirkby Stephen, 41m. N.E. of Ulverston. It was 
 the Roman station of Galacum ; the town was burnt by 
 the Scots, 22 Hen. II. and 11 Rich. II. The Castle (Earl 
 of Thanet), first built by Rufus, 1092, stands on a hill 
 among trees, and retains portions built 1454 by Thomas 
 
cesar's tower. 213 
 
 Lord Clifford ; considerable repairs were made in 1684 by 
 Thomas Earl of Thanet. It was taken by King William of 
 Scotland 1176, and again in 1338. Edward I. was here 
 Oct. 3, 1292. Ccesar's Tower, detached at a distance of 
 30 yards to the W., is square, with angular turrets 80 ft. 
 high. The castle contains the tilting armour and horse 
 mail, inlaid with gold, used by George Earl of Cumberland, 
 as champion of Queen Elizabeth. The judges of assize 
 lodge here. 
 
 S. Laurence's Churchy near the ancient bridge, built 
 1177, and repaired 1655, retains its sedilia; comprises 
 some good piers and arches, Decorated and Perpendicular ; 
 a little good screen work, and the monument of Margaret 
 Countess of Pembroke. S. Michael's, Bondgate (£m. 
 S.E.), Early English, contains a brass and an ancient parish 
 chest. S. James's Hospital was founded 1654 by the 
 " G-ood Countess " Anne, who, in 1648, held out in the 
 castle here against the rebels. In the Grammar School 
 Dean Addison, the excellent Bedel, Bishop of Kilmore, 
 Barlow of Lincoln, and J. and W, Langhorne, the trans- 
 lators of Plutarch, were educated. Burrals, lm. distant, 
 like the u Borough Walls " of Bath, mark the position of 
 the old defences of the town. From a camp near Powis 
 House, 4m. N., to a fort on the Brough Road, 2m. S., a 
 Roman road, a branch of the Watling St., may be traced, 
 and again from Kirkby Thore northward. There are many 
 interesting objects in the neighbourhood. At Hilton (3m.), 
 Cardinal Bainbridge was born ; Barwise Hall (2£m. S.W.), 
 now a farm-house ; S, Margaret's Long Morton (3jm. 
 N.E.), a Norman and mixed church; Hoiv Gill Castle (6m. 
 N.W., and im. S.W. of Milbourne), now a farm-house, with 
 walls 10£ ft. thick. S. Laurence's Morland (7m. N.W.), 
 and 7^m. S.E. of Penrith), on a hill, a cruciform church of 
 the 11th century, with a central tower, containing a brass 
 to J. Blyth, 1562, and a monument to Gren. Markham. Dr. 
 Brown, author of Characteristics, was vicar here. S. 
 James's, Ormeshead (3Jm. S. E.), a church of the 11th 
 century, standing on a Roman mound, and containing 
 three brasses, to Sir C. Pulteney, 1620, and two Hiltons, 
 p 3 
 
214 KIRKBY-STEPHEN. 
 
 1693, 1652. Burton (4m. S.W.) contains remains of en- 
 trenchments near the Hall, in which there is a bust of the 
 moss-trooper Johnnie Armstrong. There is a lead mine in 
 Kidsty Beck. 
 
 Proceeding S. the traveller will reach JBrough-under- 
 Stanmore (8m. from Appleby and 4m. N.E. of Kirby Stephen. 
 It stands in a mountainous district barren and heathy, 
 with Hilbeck, Warcot, and Dove Crag on the N., but 
 producing iron, lead, lime, and freestone. Brough was 
 the Verterce of the Romans and formed their central station 
 on the Maiden way between Brougham and Bowes, (13m. 
 distant), [there is a small fort at Maiden Castle, 4m. E. of 
 Brough, and another at Here, or Reay, Cross (7m.), so called 
 from a royal truce made by the kings of Northumbria and 
 Scotland here, who made a pile of stones to commemorate 
 the event in 1072 : there are also remains of a Roman 
 fort which commanded the entrance of the pass into West- 
 moreland. A cross at this point marked the boundary of 
 the parish, and at Spital House (|m. from Rere Cross) there 
 was an hospital for wayfarers. Before the present road was 
 made, an old blind man acted as guide over Stainmore forest 
 from Bowes to Brough]. The large church of S. Michael, 
 late Perpendicular, possesses some stained glass : R. d'Egles- 
 field, founder of Queen's College, Oxford, was rector in 1332. 
 On a hill above the Swindale Beck are remains of a Norman 
 Castle. On Brough Hill (2m. N. W.) a great fair is held 
 Sept. 30. and Oct. 1. On the Eve of the Epiphany the 
 custom of " carrying the holly tree" is still observed. Near 
 Brough is S. Columba's War cop, (3m.) and 5|m. S.E. of 
 Appleby, containing stained glass by Wailes. Kirksteads 
 and Castle Hill are the sites of a fort and church. Behind 
 Warcop Hall (Rev. W. Preston) is a Roman camp. 
 
 Kiukby-Stephen (4m. S.W. of Brough, 10m. S.E. of 
 Appleby, and 24m. N.E. of Kendal), stands on a rock of 
 calcareous magnesian conglomerate, and is situated among 
 the loftiest portion of the carboniferous mountain limestone 
 locally called Brockram. Among these gigantic mountains, 
 the south and west monarchs of the great Pennine range are 
 Wildboar Fell, the Wastes of Stainmoor, the Fells of Nateby 
 
KIRKBY-STEPHEN. 215 
 
 and Hartley, and the Nine Standards, 2136 ft. high, so 
 called from a tradition that on nine huge stones were placed 
 the standards, to appear like the vanguard of an advancing 
 army, but thus really marking the boundary of Westmore- 
 land and Yorkshire. Kirkby is a parish of hill and dale, 
 ghyls and thwaites and water-meadows, with heights pro- 
 ducing iron, haematite, lead, copper, limestone, ironstone ore, 
 and coal, and moors abounding in grouse. S. Stephen's Church, 
 200 by 90 ft., is cruciform, comprising a Norman nave, 
 an Early English transept, Perpendicular aisles, a tower 73 
 ft. high, built 1598-1606, and containing 4 bells, a chancel, 
 rebuilt by Carpenter 1847, and 3 chantries ; Hartly Chantry, 
 rebuilt 1849, containing the altar tomb of a knight (Harcla ?); 
 Wharton Chantry, rebuilt 1850, containing an altar tomb 
 and effigies of Thomas Lord Wharton, Captain of Carlisle, 
 and the hero of Sollom Moss, d. 1568, and his wives 
 Eleanor and Anne ; and the Smardale (Oloverdale) Chantry, 
 attached to an old hall (2jm. S.W.), now a farm-house. 
 At Stenkrith Bridge, over the Eden, is Coopkarnal Hole, a 
 noisy cascade among broken overhanging rocks, and flowing 
 through banks formed of shrub-covered cliffs. It pours into 
 a deep hollow and throws up sheets of foam ; in the bed of 
 the river are rocks in which the whirlpools have worn round 
 holes 6 to 9 feet deep and 1-7 feet in diameter. In 
 the neighbourhood of the town are Hartley, where S. C. 
 Musgrave demolished a castle to build Eden Hall ; lead 
 and copper mines on Hartley Fell ; the beautiful Podghyl, 
 a valley full of tall trees and mossy-lichened fragments of 
 rock intersected by a brook, and in the neighbourhood of 
 Ewbank Scar and Crag, and a waterfall 60 ft. high. At 
 Castlethwaite (4m. S.), one square tower is the only 
 remnant of Pendragon Castle, on a mound near the Eden, 
 built by Vortigern, surnamed Pendragon, the father of King- 
 Arthur, who afterwards was poisoned with 100 of his nobi- 
 lity by the Saxons at Stonehenge, 515. In order to fortify 
 the castle he attempted, but in vain, to divert the course of 
 the Eden; according to the old rhyme, — 
 
 " Let Uter Pendragon do what he can, Eden will flow where Eden ran/' 
 p 4 
 
216 WHARTON HALL KIRKBY LONSDALE. 
 
 Wharton Hall near Nateby, now dismantled (2m. S.), 
 (that, is the tower of the nativi, or bondmen of Pendragon), 
 was the home of Lord Wharton, who with 500 horse defeated 
 5000 Scots at Sollom Moss, a disgrace of which the Scottish 
 king died broken-hearted ; also of Thomas, the adherent of 
 the Prince of Orange, and Philip, the witty duke, Whig, 
 Tory, Jacobite by turns, who seryed under the King of Spain 
 against Gibraltar, and died at the age of 32 in a Benedictine 
 convent. About ^m. distant are the ruins of Dolorous Tower 
 or Lameside Castle, 3m. from Kirkby-Stephen, and on the 
 road to Pendragon. 
 
 The tourist may here diverge to Tebay (12 m.), (see 
 Kendal Routes), passing through Ravenstone Dale (4m.), 
 where Dawes, the critic, was educated. The church is dedi- 
 cated to S. Oswald. On Gallows Hill, near the Lord's Park, 
 criminals were executed. By a curious custom, if a tenant 
 aged 16 years dies childless, or without a will attested by 
 four of the manor tenants, his estate escheats to the lord of the 
 manor. The road to Kirkby Lonsdale (the Vale of theLune), 
 (Green Dragon, Hose and Crown), lies through Sedbergh in 
 Yorkshire (14m.), from which the former town is 10m. distant. 
 It is situated on the Lune, 7m. E. of Burton and Holme 
 Station, and 12m. S.E. of Kendal. There is an ancient 
 market cross ; the old inn is mentioned by Drunken Barnaby. 
 Bell, the Chancery barrister, was bom here. S. Mary's 
 Church comprises a tower 61 ft. high, a carved pulpit, an 
 ancient font, an Early English east front, and two Norman 
 doorways of four aisles, 120 ft. by 102. 
 
 When James H. was said to have landed on the Yorkshire 
 coast, the Lord Lieutenant and Posse Comitatus having 
 marched from Miller's Field to Kirkby, became as celebrated 
 as the famous French King who marched up the hill, the 
 campaign being thus recorded : — 
 
 " In '88 was Kirby fight, 
 When ne'er a man was slain ; 
 They ate their meat and drank their drink, 
 And so came home again. : ' 
 
 The Lune here flows among beautiful woodland scenes, 
 
PENRITH TO POOLEY BRIDGE. 217 
 
 with fine mountains on the east and north, and above the 
 Early English bridge, which is 80 ft. long, 60 feet above the 
 river, and ascribed to the spells of Michael Scott, is a series 
 of picturesque rapids over the limestone, which is here thrown 
 down 1000 ft. below its usual level. The view from the 
 churchyard (180 ft. above the river) is very beautiful. On 
 the Easgill (3m. N.E.) are the cave of the Witches' Hole, 
 the stalactical Witches ' Staircase, and cascades in the 
 hollows, called the Kirk and Choir. 
 
 There is some old tapestry at Casterton Hall (ljm. 
 distant). At Killaton (7m. N.) is a fragment of a house, 
 partly of the time of Henry Vin., with portions added in 
 1640. The rocks of the middle slate, known as the Kirkby 
 Group, are the most fossiliferous of the Cumbrian slates. 
 On the banks of the Lime and along the line of the old 
 Kendal road the geologist will find a rich harvest of organic 
 remains. Within 2m. of the town the Lune crosses at 
 Beckfoot the upper part of the slate fossiliferous rocks, 
 and then runs through cliffs of the old red strata, clay 
 covered with red conglomerate full of pebbles. At the 
 waterfall in Casterton Woods, the old red sandstone closely 
 approaches the mountain limestone. 
 
 From Penrith to Poolet Bridge (6m.) there are two 
 roads through a highly cultivated country ) one leaves the 
 Keswick and Penrith road (2|m.) and passes through 
 Dalemain ParkQ&Y. Hassell) (3m.), crossing the Dacre, and 
 reaches Ulleswater f m. from Pooley Bridge. The other 
 takes the Shap Poad to JEamont Bridge (with Carle ton 
 Hall on the left), then follows the first road upon the right 
 (on the left is lung Arthur's Pound Table, on the right 
 Mayborough) by Yanwaih (2jm.), Tirrel and Barton. 
 Pooley Bridge at the north end of the lake (6m.), [Crown 
 and Sim, where boats may be hired] on the Eamont, is a 
 cheerful little village, containing a stone cross erected by 
 Dacre, Earl of Sussex, in the time of Charles H. (o.^m. 
 S.W. of Penrith, 4£m. W. of Lowther Castle, 9m. N.E~. of 
 Paterdale, 19m. N.E. of Ambleside, 16m. N.W. of Appleby, 
 18m.E. of Keswick, 27m. N.W .of Kendal). Fromthefoot of 
 the lake are seen Swarth Fell, Stile End, Stone Cross Pike, 
 
218 POOLEY BRIDGE TO PATERDALE. 
 
 Dolly Waggon Pike, over Birk Fell, How Spine How, over 
 the Knotts, Dove and Winter Crag, Hallin and Place Fell, 
 Helvellyn, Catstyeam, Glenridding Dodd, Helvellyn Low 
 Man, Herring Pike, Keppel Cove Head, Raise, Gowbarrow 
 Park, Green Side, Glencoin Fell and Soulby Fell. Dacre 
 Hall is not far distant. On the west of the village is 
 Dun Mallet Hill, an old Roman station. 
 
 Pooley Bridge to Paterdale Inn, (10m.) by the west 
 shore. The road passes by Water foot on the right (lm.), 
 Ramsbeck Lodge on the left (2m.), Water Millock, [7£m. 
 from Penrith ; the new church, bnilt 1558, is so called in 
 distinction to the old church that stood at the foot of 
 Priest's Crag.] Halsteads, opposite Hallin Fell, Gowbarrow 
 Park, Air a Bridge (5Jm.) near Lyulph's Tower, [the road 
 here diverges to Keswick, through Materdale j and 
 passengers to that town change stage-coaches here.] 
 Glencoin Bridge, (6|m.) under Stybarroio Crag, Glen- 
 ridding Beck, with Glenridding House (Rev. J. Askew) 
 on the left and Paterdale Hall (J. Marshall) on the right ; 
 a stream fed by Keppel Cove Tarn, and Red Tarn, high up 
 on Helvellyn, and dyed with a dusky colour by the lead 
 works of Green Side. Place Fell, with its summit of 
 cultivated land and farmsteads at its base, stands effectively 
 on the opposite shore. A short distance further, among 
 trees clustered under the tall hills that guard the gorge, 
 is seen the comfortable inn of Paterdale (10m.) ; the 
 return by Pooley Bridge to Penrith is 16m. 
 
 Poole y Bridge to Paterdale by the east or Westmoreland 
 shore, for horsemen or pedestrians. — The tourist passes under 
 Swarth Fell, through How Town, having Hallin Fell and 
 Martindale on the right hand, through the straggling hamlet 
 of Sand-Wyke, opposite Gowbarrow Park, crossing a brook 
 that flows down from Martindale, and proceeds by a narrow 
 track along the craggy side of Place Fell, covered with 
 birch and juniper, to the farm-houses and slate quarries at 
 Blo-wick. He soon after crosses over a stream flowing 
 down from Hayeswater by Lower Hartshope, near the 
 foot of Brothers' Water, into the Kirkstone road; and 
 quickly reaches the inn of Paterdale. 
 
ROUTES FROM PENRITH. 219 
 
 Penrith to Paterdale byLowther Vale, for pedestrians. 
 — He proceeds by Askham to Helton, where he mounts the 
 hill-side from the common, and crosses the moor towards 
 the S. W.j obtaining from the ridge a fine view of Skiddaw, 
 Helvellyn, and Fail-field High Pike and Mell Fell j he then 
 proceeds towards Lade Pot, and descends by a green road 
 through a ravine to Mell Guards, near How Town, and 
 crosses behind Hallin Fell to Sand-Wyke. (See Pater- 
 dale routes.) He can reach Paterdale (4m. distant) by 
 Boredale or along the east shore of Ulleswater, imder 
 Birk Fell and Place Fell. 
 
 Penrith to Shap, by Askham, (5m.), Bampton Church 
 (2m.), Shap Abbey (12m.), Shap (13m.), and to Penrith 
 (24m.) Askham Hall, built 1574, includes an earlier pele 
 tower. At Bampton, Dr. J. Mills and Bishop Gibson were 
 educated, and Bishop Law at Measand. The last skirmish in 
 1745 occurred in the neighbourhood. The road to Hawes- 
 water is very pretty. 
 
 Penrith to Carlisle by railway. — The vale of the Pe- 
 terel, through which the line passes, is flat and uninterest- 
 ing. The first station is Plumpton, 4m. 
 
 Old Penrith, 4m. N.W., and 13m. S. of Carlisle, per- 
 haps the Roman Brementeracum. The west side is protected 
 by the deep narrow valley of the Peterel, from which it is 
 200 yards distant ; the ramparts very boldly marked ; the 
 east gate, which retains the marks worn by the feet of the 
 legionaries, was double; on the N.E. are remains of 
 the prastorium; a well, ^m. S., cased with Roman ma- 
 sonry. The camp was 132 by 120 ft., enclosing an area of 
 3 acres : there are remains of a military way from the sta- 
 tion to the Roman wall. Plumpton Park was a tradition- 
 ary haunt of Robin Hood, and Adam Bell, Clym of the 
 Cleugh, and William Cloudeslee, three of his merry men, 
 figure in Cumbrian legends and ballads. Hutton Hall, 2m. 
 S.W, (Sir H. Vane), and Hutton Park, are in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The next stations are Curthwaite, Southwaite 
 (10m.), (Rose Castle, Bishop of Carlisle, is 4m. distant), and 
 Wreay for Briscoe (17m.), (Birk's heugh, the beech wood), 
 where the first wheat raised in the country was grown in 
 
220 ARMATH WAITE . 
 
 1700. Corby Castle is 4m. E. Newbiggin Hall (H. 
 Aglionby), a fortified grange built by the Prior of Carlisle, 
 1553, and Scaleby Castle, are in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Carlisle (17m.). — (See Walcott's Cathedrals of the 
 United Kingdom.) 
 
 PeisThth to Carlisle by road. — The road to Carlisle lies 
 through Plump ton (2m.), High Hesket, where, on S. Bar- 
 nabas, the court was held for Inglewood Forest, under a 
 thorn by the way side. 
 
 Hese^t-en-the-Forest (9m. RW.). — The last tree of 
 Inglewood Forest, under which John de Corbridge, the 
 poor hermit, lived, was standing here in 1823, in Wrag- 
 mire Moss. 
 
 At Armathwaite John Skelton the poet was born. 
 Near Aiket Gate is Wadling Tarn, on which a floating 
 island appeared, Aug. 30, 1810, and sank after a few months ; 
 the tarn abounds in carp. Armathwaite Castle (W. H. 
 Woodhouse), of the 17th century, is 2m. N.E. of Plumpton, 
 and near the Eden, which forms a lake bounded by Bar- 
 rowwood and Croglin. K. Sweyn lived at Castle Hewin, 
 l£m. on the N. side of Wadling Tarn. Here was the home 
 of a terrible baron, who maltreated women and slew men, 
 till King Arthur set forth from Carlisle to confront him : 
 but on his arriving before the castle the baron uttered a 
 charm, which made the king's arms fall powerless to his 
 side ; and he was only suffered to depart on condition that 
 he would, within a year and a day, bring answer what 
 woman loved best. King Arthur was told of riches, 
 beauty, ornament, and every other species of delight, till he 
 was in despair. Once more he set out, and by the way 
 found a hideous crone in a scarlet cloak, who promised to 
 reveal the secret on condition that she was given in mar- 
 riage to the handsomest young knight in the royal court. 
 The king assented, and, riding to Hewin Castle, cried out 
 under the walls, u Woman loves best her own will ! " 
 whereat the baron returned growling to his keep. Then 
 the king at Carlisle persuaded his gay knights to wed the 
 old hag in the scarlet cloak ; and Sir Grawain vowed, in his 
 loyalty, he would take her, hideous as she was. The bridal 
 
KIRK LINTON STANEWIX. 221 
 
 was completed in due course ; Sir Gawain gallantly kissed 
 his wife's loathsome brow, and indulged her caprice, when, 
 lo ! the spell which an envious stepmother had thrown over 
 her and her brother were dissolved, and she stood before 
 him the loveliest of women, and the baron became the 
 gentlest of knights. 
 
 Objects of interest near Carlisle : — Watch Cross, (Tuno- 
 cellum ?) |m. S. from Blea Tarn, is the site of a Roman camp. 
 At Dalston on the Cardew, 4m. S.W., are an old hall, S. 
 Michael's Church, of which Archdeacon Paley was rector, 
 and traces of a camp and barrow. High Ghyl Castle, 4m. 
 S.W. of Dalston, now a farm-house, retains an entrance 
 gateway, watch turret, and remains of a tower and a curtain 
 wall above the river. At King Harry, a dreary waste, are 
 the Grey Yauds, a circle 52 ft. in diameter, consisting of 88 
 stones, the tallest being 4 ft. high. 
 
 Kirk Linton (9m. N.E. of Carlisle), lately rebuilt. In 
 the old tower of S. Cuthbert's there were found the remains 
 of 60 persons who had taken refuge here from the Scots 
 after the battle of Bannockburn, and were burned in their 
 stronghold by them. Graham, the inventor of the Sector, 
 was born here, 1675. The church is of red freestone. New- 
 biggin Hall, 4m. S., was the tower to which the Prior of 
 Carlisle retired in times of danger. Hose Castle (Bishop 
 of Carlisle) is 9m. S. Scaleby Castle (J. Fawcett), partly 
 ancient, (6m. N.E), the birthplace of W. Gilpin the author. 
 Sebergham Hall (9m. S.W.) is near the birthplace of Ralph, 
 the Cumberland poet. 
 
 Stanewix (Stone town) Station, a suburb of Carlisle, 
 which guarded the northern bank of the Eden, com- 
 mands a fine view of the rugged peaks of Thirlwall, the 
 Cumbrian mountains, the winding Eden, the Castle and 
 Cathedral of Carlisle, the Roman Luguvallium (the fort on 
 the waters). Kirk Andrew's was probably the site of a 
 mile-castle. At Warwick on the Eden (3m. E.), near the 
 foot of a hill, are earthworks designed to resist Scottish 
 moss-troopers. S. Leonard's Church, 70 ft. long, is apsidal. 
 At Warwick Bridge, 5m. S.E., is Holme Eden (P. Dixon), 
 a noble mansion built 1843 by Dobrough of Newcastle. 
 
222 CORBY CASTLE. 
 
 Carlisle to Gilslaist) Spa, by the Carlisle and Newcastle 
 Railway. — The first station is Scotby, lfm., the next is 
 Wether al (3§m.) on the Eden. The railway bridge of five 
 arches, and 625 ft. long, was built 1830 : another bridge over 
 Corby Beck, of seven arches, is 480 ft. long. 
 
 Co^staistteste's Cells, or the Wetheral Safeguards, are 
 three chambers in a row, 8 ft. wide and 12 ft. in depth, 
 hewn out at a height of 40 ft. above the river Medway, in 
 the face of a dark red sandstone cliff, Jm. from Corby 
 Castle. They are mentioned^as the Chambers of Constan- 
 tine in a grant by R. de Meschines, not long after the Con- 
 quest, to S. Mary's Abbey at York. According to the legend 
 the Scottish King Constantine lived in them as a hermit 
 after his defeat by Athelstane, and before he became a monk 
 of Melrose. Probably they were used by the monks of 
 Wetheral in times of danger. The Parish Church of 
 Wetheral, dedicated to SS. Mary and Constantine, contains 
 the effigy of Sir R. Salkeld, Captain of Carlisle in the reign 
 of Henry VII., a monument of the Hon. Maria Howard, 
 (d. 1789) by Nollekens. Only the gate-house of the Bene- 
 dictine Priory was spared when the Dean and Chapter of 
 Carlisle destroyed the church and cloister to repair their 
 prebendal houses. 
 
 Corby Castle (Philip H. Howard), a modernised build- 
 ing enclosing the stout old peel tower, and recased 1813, 
 crowns a noble and precipitous eminence on the east side 
 of the Eden, about 5m. S.E. of Carlisle. The broad stream, 
 swift and clear, winds under wooded declivities of red 
 sandstone. An avenue borders a lawn which rises up to 
 Castle Hill, from the summit of which the landscape 
 embraces the Solway and the blue border mountains, 60m. 
 in extent, reaching from Criffel to Selkirk ,* to the W. is 
 the vale and city of Carlisle, to the E. the dark ridges of 
 the Northumbrian Hills range like a wall behind pastures 
 and woodlands ; and to the S.W. Skiddaw and Blencathra 
 bound the view. When Prince Edward began the siege of 
 Carlisle, Nov. 9, 1745, he sent for tall fir trees to the woods 
 of Corby to furnish scaling ladders for the assault. Many 
 a tufted Scotch fir and pine yet tower along the banks of 
 
CORBY AND NAWOETH CASTLES. 223 
 
 the terrace, among larch, sycamore, beech, chestnut and 
 ash. Some time-worn oaks fringe the dizzy height of the 
 Ravmjiints. Hume in 1756 wrote on a window of the Old 
 Bush Inn at Carlisle — 
 
 u Here chicks in eggs for breakfast sprawl, 
 Here Godless boys God's glories squawl, 
 While Scotsmen's heads adorn the wall, 
 But Corby's walks atone for all." 
 
 The entrance door bears the graceful inscription, u Suis 
 et amicus, H. Howard D.D." Here are preserved the 
 claymore of Major Macdonald, the Fergus Mclvor of 
 " Waverley f 9 a grace cup of A. Becket, with a rim of ivory 
 and a cover studded with precious stones ; an exquisite cup 
 formed of a nautilus shell mounted in silver richly chased 
 in Cinque-Cento work, and set with gems and pearls ; an 
 Early English ivory pastoral staff, exquisitely carved, with 
 figures of the Saviour and Apostles, and with traces of 
 colour and gilding ; a flagon of ivory wrought by Barnard 
 Strauss of Nuremburg ; rosary of Mary Queen of Scots ; 
 the inlaid work-box of the mother of Belted Will; a 
 carving of the Judgment of Paris, by Albert Durer ; Lion 
 and Horse, a bronze by A. Sossini; and portraits of 
 Charles V., by Titian, Louis Philippe, and Lord W. Howard. 
 Landscapes by Vernet, Teniers, Catel ; picture by Murillo ; 
 Crucifixion (Ghiido), Marriage of S. Catherine (Corregio) ; 
 Holy Family (Sasso Ferrato) : S. Catherine (Leonardo da 
 Vinci) ; S. Agnes, Madonna (Carlo Dolce) ; Holy Family 
 (Le Sceur) ; David (Poussin) ; Thomas third Duke (Hol- 
 bein) ; Lady, a Colonna ; Maria del Fiori ; Charles V. 
 (Titian) ; Charles II. ; Charles eleventh Duke (Hopner) ; 
 and pictures by Kamsay, Gainsborough, Northcote, Jack- 
 son. 
 
 Nawoeth Castle (Earl of Carlisle) is one of the choicest 
 of England's architectural monuments, originally of the 
 time of Henry III ; 12m. N.E. of Carlisle. The approach 
 from Brampton, by a road bordering a deep dell, with a 
 stream in the ravine, and clad with oaks, prepares the visitor 
 for the beautiful views commanded by the heights adjoining 
 
224: NA WORT II CASTLE. 
 
 the Castle, — the distant ridges of Cross Fell, the grey ruins 
 of Lanercost, Jm. distant, close to green hills and the 
 gleamy Irthing, the faint line of the Solway, and the purple 
 distance in which lie pastures, woodland, and tillage fields. 
 In July 1335, Edward III., then the guest of Sir Ealph 
 de Dacre at Irthington Castle, gave him permission to 
 build and crenellate Naworth; a former licence is dated 
 1316. 
 
 The east, west, and north sides of the small irregular quad- 
 rangle rise from the steep sides of a deep, wild, and wooded 
 ravine, and two streams unite to the north and flow down 
 through a deep dell to the Irthing. The Castle was built 
 in a square, enclosing a large barme-kin or bailey; the 
 south, the only accessible side, is defended by massive 
 beacon-towers, a strong wall, with an archway opening into 
 the inner bailey, and a double moat, with a gatehouse, barbi- 
 can, and drawbridge. The Chancellor's and Lord William's 
 Tower are of the earlier part of the 14th century : the prison 
 is very curious. Among the lords of the Castle occur Halph 
 Dacre, who fell at Towton; Lord Humphrey, Warden of 
 the West Marches, who died 1485, and the rich altar tomb 
 that covers him and Lady Mabel his wife is still to be seen 
 in the aisles of Lanercost ; Lord Thomas, who carried off by 
 night and married Elizabeth, heiress of Greystock, and 
 the King's ward, as Halph de Dacre, in the reign of Edward 
 II., bore away his betrothed, Margaret de Multon, heiress of 
 all Grilsland, and also the King's ward, from Warwick 
 Castle, and made her his child- wife here. Lord Thomas, 
 K.G-., who led the right wing at Flodden, built the 
 massive entrance gate of Naworth. His rich altar tomb is 
 in the south aisle of Lanercost. Hither in 1569, in the 
 rising of the North to deliver Mary Queen of Scots from 
 her barbarous kinswoman, the Earls of Westmoreland and 
 Northumberland retired. Leonard Dacre, uncle of the 
 orphan heiress, Lady Elizabeth, then a child of seven years 
 old, at the head of 3000 freebooters seized upon the Castle, 
 1570. Lord Hunsdon, Governor of Berwick, and Sir J. 
 Forster, Warden of the Middle Marches, advanced with 
 1500 infantry from Hexham, and on arriving here found 
 
NAWORTH CASTLE. 225 
 
 the hills covered by horsemen, and the beacons burning. 
 On the high moor near the Gelt the battle was fought, and, 
 in despite of his superior numbers, Dacre was compelled to 
 fly to Scotland, and died in exile at Louvain, Lady Eliza- 
 beth Dacre became the wife of Lord William Howard, 
 whom Camden visited here in 1607, and found leading a 
 scholar's and soldier's life. 
 
 Scott couples together the names of the successive owners 
 of Naworth : — 
 
 " Thus to the lady did Tynlinn show 
 The tidings of the English foe, 
 ' Belted Will Howard is marching here, 
 And hot Lord Dacre with many a spear.' " 
 
 Lord William repaired the Warder's Gallery, altered 
 the S.W. tower, and in that upon the S.E. formed his own 
 study chambers ; the fine 14th century roof of oak, panelled 
 and carved, which has happily escaped the disastrous tire of 
 1844, was brought from Kirk-Oswald by him, with other 
 relics now in the hall, admirably restored by Mr. Salving the 
 Dolphin with the Beacon of K. de Greystock, the Stag of 
 De Multon, the Black Griffin of De Vaux, and the Bull of 
 the Dacres, are the supporters which still carry banners ; and 
 sculptured figures of alabaster and paintings on panel remain 
 in the Oratory. Lord William's bed-room retains its old 
 oak panelling; there is a priest's hiding-place adjoining the 
 Oratory. He is variously known as " Bold W T illie," the 
 "Civiliser of the Borders," and "Belted Will." 
 
 " His Bilboa blade by marchmen felt, 
 Hung in a broad and studded belt ; 
 Hence in rude phrase, the borderers still 
 Called noble Howard Belted Will." 
 
 The haU contains some armour and several royal and 
 family portraits ; Charles I. (Vandyke) ; Thomas, Duke of 
 Norfolk ; the Surrey of Flodden field ; Philip, Earl of Arun- 
 del ; Queen Katherine Parr ; Queen Mary of Scots ; and 
 five noble pieces of tapestry brought from Castle Howard, 
 Q 
 
226 CASTLE STEADS ROSE HILL. 
 
 and once a marriage present to Henry IV. and Mary de 
 Medici. 
 
 Castle Steads, 3in. from Naworth. — Here, it is said, was 
 the ancient stronghold of the lords of Gillsland. Near 
 Hayton, 2|m. S. of Bampton, Mell St., is Edmond 
 Castle (T. H. Graham), lm. N. and 7m. E. of Carlisle, 
 close to the Castle Hill, 12 ft. high, and 100 ft. in circum- 
 ference, Jm. N. of How. [For S. Mary's Abbey, Lanercost, 
 2| m. N.E. of Brampton, see 'Wzlcottis Minsters of the United 
 Kingdom.'] The prior's lodge is a farm-house. The largest 
 portions of the Roman wall remaining are to be seen at 
 Harehill and Garthside. [The next stations are Loiv Roto 
 and Rose Hill, the latter 446 ft. above the Tyne. Gilsland, 
 10m. N.E. of Brampton, 18m. N.E. of Carlisle, lm. N. of 
 Rose Hill, is a dell by the side of the brown foamy 
 Irthing, which here rushes along in a crescent-shaped and 
 narrow channel over broken fragments of millstone-grit. 
 On the N.W. an imposing precipice, shaggy with trees, 
 forms a barrier. The opposite shore is flat and alluvial, 
 with green fields, a few cottages, and Wardrow House, a 
 summer lodging house ; the bank, planted with trees, 
 rises gradually and ascends nearly to a level with the N.W. 
 shore. 
 
 Near Rose Hill, on the edge of the cheerless waste to- 
 wards Lid&esdale where Dandie Dinmont was set upon by 
 robbers, and the last house in the hamlet is Hump's Hall, 
 where that worthy quenched his thirst and gave news of the 
 death of Ellangowan to Meg Merrilees $ on crossing the 
 brisk but shallow Irthing here, the church and Shaw's 
 hotel at Gilsland Spa are seen. A broad zigzag path leads 
 down into a rocky glen, well wooded ; to the base of a lofty 
 cliff washed by the river, and to the medicinal spring which 
 bubbles with sulphuretted gas and flows into a little basin. 
 Its qualities are tonic. The cliff is dusky grey, with streaks 
 of black and yellowish white. Opposite to it, and approached 
 by stepping-stones, is a low meadow with some little wood. 
 There is a good walk for a sturdy foot to Naworth along 
 the bank. Here, under this cliff, Miss Margaret Bertram of 
 
BE W CASTLE. 227 
 
 Sunnyside was recommended to repose herself, and at the 
 spa-well by the crag met the gipsy. Here, in 1797, Walter 
 Scott, then a young man of twenty-six, being on a visit, met 
 Miss Carpenter, and he was married to her in S. Mary's, 
 Carlisle, in the following December. A walk along the 
 right bank only leads to a dreary vast brown tract. At 
 Upper Denton, 1 Jm. from Eose Hill, is the grave of Margaret 
 Teesdale, the Meg Merrilees of Scott, who was born at 
 Mump's Hall, 1m. distant. 
 
 Bewcastle, 13m. N. of G-ilsland, lies in the bottom of a 
 basin formed by an amphitheatre of bleak and lofty hills: the 
 camp stands on a platform above the Kirkbeck. The Castle, 
 which was dismantled by the rebels in 1641, was built of 
 the ruins of the Eoman wall. The captain often appears in 
 border minstrelsy. According to an old legend, and it is no 
 more, a Gilbert Earth, the Saxon thane of Bewcastle, (Bereth's 
 Castle) and Gillesland, being dispossessed of his manors by 
 Henry II., who bestowed them on Hubert de Yallibres, 
 made frequent incursions at the head of his retainers. 
 Eobert de Vaux, the next intruder, who repulsed William 
 the Lion before Carlisle Castle, suggested a conference, and 
 then basely assassinated the unarmed Saxon. He built 
 Lanercost Priory in expiation, and the monks sowed the site 
 of his castle (Castlesteads, Cambeck fort) with salt, having 
 demolished the walls. The King made the murderer a judge 
 of assize, but his lands had no heir, hi3 only child dying 
 before him. 
 
 Bewcastle, [probably the Eoman Cfallava (the cold 
 river).] The station, which is hexagonal, covers 6 acres of 
 ground and was protected by an outer rampart and fosse on 
 the E., S.E., and S.W. sides ; on the S. by the steep bank of 
 the Kirkbeck ; and on the N.E. by an advanced post. On 
 the N. side a large rude Border Castle, 87 ft. square, has 
 been built out of the stones of the station, surrounded by 
 a deep and broad ditch. On the top of a hill to the N.E. 
 are some foundations called Hall Hills, from the name of a 
 family settled here, and whose house was burned down. 
 About 400 yards distant are the cannon-holes where Oliver 
 Q2 
 
228 MILTON — COOME CRAG. 
 
 Cromwell is said to have planted his battery. In the church- 
 yard is a monolithic obelisk, or shaft of an ancient cross, in- 
 scribed with Anglo-Saxon Runes 5 it is of hard white free- 
 stone spotted with grey, and was quarried at Langbar, 5m. 
 distant. The sculptures represent the Holy Lamb, the Sa- 
 viour, and a Danish king with a raven. Tradition says that 
 a monarch of the Vikings (Sveno ?) was buried here. 
 
 The next station on the Newcastle Railway is Hilton, 
 (Howard Arms), l^m. from Urampton, (pop. 3304), a town 
 2m. S. of the Roman wall, 2Jm. from Naworth, and 11m. 
 from Carlisle, seated in a narrow vale under weil-wooded or 
 cultivated hills, between the Irthing and Gelt. Here are 
 traces of a small Roman camp on a gentle eminence which 
 commands a beautiful view ; in the plain to the south are 
 some barrows, two circular, 12 yds. in diameter, and one 32 
 yards long, near a large mound, solitary and covered with 
 oak trees. There is a small earthwork not very far distant, 
 towards the town. The church (lim.), built of Roman 
 stones, was almost destroyed in 1788, in order to furnish 
 materials for the new church in the town. Near it Mr. Bell 
 discovered the brass common seal of Penrith, which had 
 been dropped centuries back by the Scots. The Town Hall 
 was built 1817. In August there is an annual regatta, with 
 wrestling matches at Talkin Tarn, a lake of 90 acres, Ifm. 
 distant. The town was besieged in the reign of Edward II. 
 G-en. Foster marched through it, Nov. 1715, on his way to 
 Penrith, and Prince Charles Edward in 1745 resided in the 
 present Freemasons' Arms inn. Bishop Carleton was bom 
 here. At Curmew, 7m. N., there are ruins of a castle of the 
 De Vaux ; the church contains the effigy of a lady. The Ro- 
 man wall continues from Ambo-glanna (the circling glen) 
 Birdostuald (perhaps Bird's weald, bird-forest), to Petricma, 
 Walton, or Castlesteads, 3m. from Brampton, 10m. N. of 
 Carlisle, where some Roman altars are standing in the gar- 
 den of Walton House ; and, on the rocky banks of the Gelt, 
 4m. south, are remains of inscriptions by Roman qnarrymen. 
 
 Coome Crag (the Written Rock) is 2m. W. from Bird- 
 oswald, in the midst of romantic and beautiful scenery on 
 
IRTHINGTON SILLOTH PORT CARLISLE. 229 
 
 the banks of the Irthing. The first gate on the left of the 
 road after passing the mile-castle opens into a plantation 
 on the N. bank of the Irthing ; the left of two diverging 
 paths will lead the visitor to the upper shelf of a peninsula- 
 shaped rock; on the eastern face are letters, probably 
 cut by soldiers of the sixth legion in the time of Severus. 
 There is a mile-castle (Money Holes, so called from its 
 hidden treasures) near Lanercost Priory, which was partly 
 built from the wall. 
 
 Irthtn t gto^ 2 J m. from Brampton, was once the strong- 
 hold of the De Vallibus ; the keep stood on a mound now 
 thickly grown with trees. The church of S. Kentigern, 
 lately restored, was built of stones from the Roman Wall ; 
 the style is Transitional Norman, with a chancel screen, 
 stone pulpit and font, and three memorial windows by 
 Wailes of Newcastle. 
 
 Carlisle to Silloth and Port Carlisle. — The train 
 passes through Kirk Andrews (3m. N.W.), where there is 
 a good 15th century gateway ; and Bur gh-on- Sands. The 
 next stations are those of Drumburgh, (8^m.), and Kirk- 
 bride, (11 Jm.) ; [a branch diverges to Port Carlisle, (lljm.), 
 and Boicness, 10m. N. of Wigton, 12§ni. S.W. of Carlisle ; 
 stands on a rocky promontory. S. Michael's Church is 
 partly Early English. At low water guides direct pas- 
 sengers over the sands to Annan], Port Carlisle [hotels, 
 Steam-Packet, Ferry, Solway] is lm. from Bowness, 6m 
 from Burgh. There are steamers to Liverpool, Maryport, 
 and Whitehaven. A ship canal 12m. long, for vessels of 
 100 tons, communicates with Carlisle. Letters arrive 12-15 
 p.m., are despatched 1*15 p.m. The next station is Abbey 
 (17m.), or Holme CuUram, 9m. N.E. of Aspatria, 6m. 
 N.W. of Wigton, 15m. E. of Maryport. The church is 
 dedicated to S. Mary. [For the description of the Priory 
 Church, see Walcott's Minsters]. The line terminates at 
 Silloth (21jm.), 4m. from Holme Cultram, 21im. from 
 Carlisle, 16m. from Burgh ; roadstead affords the only 
 safe anchorage between the Mersey and Loch Byan. The 
 wooden pier, projecting 1000 feet long into the Solway 
 q3 
 
230 CARLISLE TO NETHERBY. 
 
 Firth, gives the necessary accommodation to the coasting 
 steamers. There are steamers to Dublin and Liverpool, 
 Skinburness is 5m. N.E. of Holme, and 2^m. N.W. of 
 Silloth. An omnibus to Allonhy^ (seep. 101,) meets the train. 
 The railway from Carlisle to Silloth was incorporated in 
 1855 and completed 1858. The town stands on the south 
 shore of Solway Firth ; the site was a waste of sand-hills 
 without even a hut for shelter ; hut the buildings have 
 been raised on gravel from the excavations of the rocks. 
 The dock, completed 1858, covers an area of 4 acres, has 
 an entrance 60 feet broad, and 24 feet depth of water, and 
 is capable of receiving the largest class of shipping. It is 
 surrounded by spacious quays and traversed by lines of 
 railway. 
 
 Carlisle to Netherby. — The train, leaving Carlisle for 
 the north, passes near the Cathedral and Castle on the light 
 and the Solway canal on the left ; it then crosses the Calder 
 and Eden, proceeds through Kingmoor, and reaches Rock- 
 cliff e j 4m. N.W. \ crossing the Eden by a viaduct of seven 
 arches, each of 40 ft. span. On the banks of the river the 
 medicinal plant " mother of thyme " is found ) and a spring 
 near high- water mark has a scum on the surface which turns 
 paper to a golden colour : the line passes through a heavy- 
 cutting at Ellersby Scaur, and crosses the Esk by a viaduct 
 of seven arches, (xarriston Suspension Bridge, the work of 
 Telford, is observable at this point. 
 
 On leaving RockclifTe the Solway appears on the right, 
 and to the left is Sir John Malcolm's monument, crowning 
 the Langholm hills. The train now traverses the Guard's 
 Embankment, formed by thousands of tons of earth, across 
 the Solway Moss for nearly four miles and a half. This 
 level, 7 m. in circumference, is composed of mud and 
 putrid heath sprigs, and covered by a dry but quaking crust 
 covered with rushes and mosses. It is separated by a peat 
 embankment from the cultivated plains of the Esk ; the 
 moss, which abounds in springs, burst this breastwork in Nov. 
 1771, and inundated this plain, devastating several hundreds 
 of acres of ground. The Moss was the haunt of the noto- 
 
NETHERBY HxVLL. 231 
 
 rious moss-troopers, and the scene of many a border fight. 
 The next station is Florision j the train then crosses the Sark 
 and enters Scotland by way of the once notorious Gretna 
 Green (8^m.). The road through Longtown may be here 
 taken to Netherby Hall (Sir J. Graham, M.P.), 5m., built 
 by Dr. R. Graham in 1760, partly out of the ruins of a Bo - 
 man station ; the bank on the west side of the house, which 
 slopes down to the valley of the Esk, was once washed by 
 the waters of the Solway. Some curious figures are preser- 
 ved here, including one of Hadrian, the "genius of the 
 barrier." The Hall is situated in Arthurett parish, 2m. N.E. 
 of Longtown, which is 9m. N. of Carlisle. Near the old 
 Churchyard Cross, Archie Armstrong, the jester of Charles I., 
 is buried. At Stapledon, 9m. E. from Langtown, W. Gra- 
 ham, the translator of Virgil's Eclogues, was rector. 2m. 
 from Netherby i3 Liddle's Mote or Strength, seated on a 
 lofty cliff above the river. It was taken by David II., who 
 strangled the sons of Sir W. Seleby before his eyes, and 
 then beheaded him. 
 
 The tourist will call to mind Lady Heron's song to the 
 king in the poem of "Marmion ;" how young Lochinvar swam 
 the fordless Esk, and reined up his horse at Netherby Gate, 
 to find his lady love, Ellen Graham, had consented to marry 
 a dastard bridegroom j the father frowned and the mother 
 fretted, and the bridesmaids whispered, as he vowed that he 
 came to tread but one measure and to drain but one cup, and 
 then — 
 
 " So light to the croup the fair lady he swung, 
 So light to the saddle before her he sprung. 
 1 She is won ; we are gone, over bank, bush, and scaur, 
 They'll have fleet steeds that follow,' quoth young Lochinvar. 
 There was mounting 'mong Grammes of the Netherby clan, 
 Forsters, Fenwicks, and Musgraves, they rode and they ran ; 
 There was racing and chasing o'er Cannobie Lee, 
 But the lost bride of Netherby ne'er did they see." 
 
 In conclusion, we will express the hope that we have 
 shown in these pages that there is no need of foreign travel, 
 or to range " from China to Peru," while our own shores in- 
 clude so much that is new and curious ; grand and beautiful 
 Q4 
 
232 CONCLUSION. 
 
 natural scenery ; striking and impressive remnants of anti- 
 quity ; works of art, genius, and industry, and peculiarities of 
 character, customs, and manners, which are unseen and un- 
 explored by too many, who prefer the less fresh and 
 unhackneyed fields of observation which most parts of the 
 Continent afford. 
 
 w Happy is England ! I could be content 
 To see no other verdure than its own, 
 To feel no other breezes than are blown 
 Through its tall woods with high romances blent" 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Abbeys, etc.; Calder, 35; Cocker- 
 sand, 65; Furness, 73; Holme 
 229; Seton, 79; Shap, 155 
 Lanercost, 226; Lytham, 63 
 Wetheral, 222. 
 
 Addingham, 205. 
 
 Aikton Castle, 207. 
 
 Ainstable, 206. 
 
 Aira Force, 35. 193. 
 
 Akehead, 102. 
 
 Allan Bank, 62. 
 
 Allerton, 62. 
 
 Allonby, 101. 95. 
 
 Alston to Penrith, 204. 205. 
 
 Ambleside, 102; routes, 43.45; 
 to Broughton, 48; Borrodale, 
 48; Grasmere, 48, 49; Hawes 
 Water, 48, 209; Hayes Water, 
 48; Keswick, 48, 52, 115, 118; 
 Kirkstone Pass and Ulleswater, 
 
 49, 123; Langdale Pikes, 49, 
 119; Ravenglass, 49; Low 
 Wood, 49; Penrith, 49, 123; 
 Tilberthwaite, 50; Troutbeck, 
 
 50, 107; Whitehaven, 50, 126; 
 Kendal, 51, 150; Rydal, 109; 
 Thirlmere, 116; Newby Bridge, 
 122 ; Styhead Pass, 125 ; Stake 
 Pass, 118; Dunmail Eaise, 115; 
 to Fairfield and Nab Scar, 3 06; 
 Loughrigg Fell, 105; Wansfell, 
 106; Easedale Tarn, 108, 119; 
 Strands and Wastwater, 126; 
 Egremont; 126, Coniston, 139. 
 
 Angle Tarn, 124. 
 Angler's Inn, 175. 
 Appleby, 212; to Penrith, 55. 
 212. 
 
 Applethwaite, Keswick, 158. 180. 
 
 Windermere, approaches to the 
 
 lakes, 37. 
 Armathwaite, 220. 
 ArmbothFell, 116. 
 Armstrong, A., 231. 
 Arnside Fell, 67. 147. 
 Arthur's, King, Round table, 
 
 201. 
 Arthurett, 231. 
 Ashness Bridge, 161. 
 Ashton Hall, 65. 
 Askham, 202. 219. 
 Aspatria, 101. 
 
 Bainbridge, Cardinal, 212. 
 
 Bampton, 36. 219. 
 
 Banks, C. J., 158. 
 
 Bannisdale Fell, 151. 
 
 Barme Rigg, 150. 
 
 Baron's Hill, 205; Wood, 207. 
 
 Barrow, 70; Force, 173; House, 
 
 174. 
 Barwick, Dean, 68. 
 Barwise Hall, 212. 
 Bassenthwaite Water, 35. 160; to 
 
 Keswick, 52. 
 Beacons, 195. 186. 
 Bedel, Bishop, 211. 
 Beckermot, 86. 88. 
 Belle Isle, 137. 
 Benson Knot, 154. 147. 
 Berkshire Isle, 
 Bella Port, 95. 
 Bewcastle, 227. 
 Bird-Oswald, 210. 228. 
 Birk Fell, 186 ; Birk Rigg, 70. 
 Birkenhead, 58 
 
234 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Birker Force, 73. 
 
 Birthwaite, 129; to Ambleside, 
 40; Conistoii and Esthwaite 
 Water, 50 ; Eskdale, 50 ; Kes- 
 wick, 50, 129; Ulleswater, 51 ; 
 Grasmere, 129 ; High Street ; 
 
 ' Newby Bridge, 1 29 ; Troutbeck, 
 130 ; Langdales, 130. 
 
 Bisket How, 129. 131. 
 
 Black Combe, 73. 
 
 Blacklead Mine, 180. 
 
 Black Sail Pass, 36. 83 ; to 
 Keswick, 53. 54. 
 
 Bleabury Tarn, 164. 
 
 Blea Crag, 94. 
 
 BleaTarn, 119. 153; Water. 
 
 Blencowe Hall, 198. 
 
 Blencathra, 167; Ascent of, 167. 
 
 Bletham Tarn, 108. 
 
 Blowick. 218. 
 
 Bobbin Mills, 150. 104. 
 
 BoltoD, 67 ; Church, legend of, 
 100. 
 
 Bootle, 75. 
 
 Borrodale, 84.161; Hause, 164; 
 to Keswick, 52 ; Ambleside, 48 . 
 
 Borrow Bridge, 159. 
 
 Borwick Hall, 66. 
 
 Botany, 11. 
 
 Bowder Stone, 174. 
 
 Bow Fell, 118. 
 
 Bowness, Windermere, 35. 43. 
 56. 130. to Cumberland, 95. 
 229. 
 
 Bowness Knot, 175. 
 
 Bowscale Tarn, 169. 
 
 Boyton, 199. 
 
 Brackenthwaite, 169. 
 
 Brarnery, 197. 
 
 Brampton, 228. 
 
 Branthwaite Fold, 112. 
 
 Bratha bridge, 119; Hall, 122. 
 
 132. 
 Brayton Hall, 101. 
 
 Brementeracum, 219. 
 Bridekirk, 99. 
 Briscoe, 209. 219. 
 Broadfield, Circle at, 210. 
 Brothers Water, 124. 
 
 Brougham Castle, 196; Hall, 197, 
 
 Lord, 176. 198. 
 Broughton-in-Furness, 73; routes 
 
 to Ambleside, 48. 73; to Ra- 
 
 venglass, 74; Seathwaite, 74; 
 
 Coniston, 139. 
 Brought under- Stanmoor, 213. 
 Brovoniacum, 196. 
 Brownrigg's Well, 188. 
 Bruce, R, 102. 
 Brundholm Wood, 167. 
 Burgh- Marsh, 96. 
 Burton, 213. 
 Butermere, 165; to Keswick, 
 
 165. 
 Butterlip How, 115. 
 Buckbarrow, 83. 
 Buckbarrow Crags, 143. 
 Burrals, 212. 
 Burran's Ring, 104. 
 Burnscar, 80. 86. 
 
 Caernote, 102. 
 
 Caldbeck, 100. 
 
 Calder, 35. 
 
 Caldew, 179. 
 
 Calgarth Park, 132. 138. 
 
 Canning, G., 137. 
 
 Cardonnock, 95. 
 
 Carl Crag, 85. 
 
 Carl Lofts, 35. 153. 
 
 Carlisle, routes to, 39. 44 ; from 
 Lancaster, 46 ; to Mary port, 
 46 ; Oxenholme, 47 ; New- 
 castle, Port Carlisle, Silloth, 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow, 48 
 to Penrith, 55. 204. 219. 220 
 Gilsland, 222 ; Silloth, 229 
 Netherby, 230. 
 
 Carlside, 180. 
 
 Cartmell, 69; to Kendal, 51. 
 
 Carvoran, 210; route to Keswick, 
 53; River, 85. 
 
 Carrock Fell, 209. 
 
 Castle, Appleby, • 512 ; Arma- 
 thwaite, 220*; Brougham, 196; 
 Broughton, 73 ; Cockermouth, 
 99; Corby, 222; Dacre, 199; 
 
INDEX. 
 
 235 
 
 Gleaston, 73; Greystocke, 200; 
 Kendal, 146 ; Lowther, 202 ; 
 Muncaster, 80; Peel. 64; Pen- 
 rith, 195; Rose, 102; Naworth, 
 223; Whitehaven, 90. 
 
 Casterton Hall, 217. 
 
 Castle Cra?, 159. 
 
 Castle Head, 172. 
 
 Castle Hewm, 220. 
 
 Castle Hows, 153. 
 
 Castle Law Hill, 146. ' 
 
 Castlerigg, 159. 
 
 Castle Sowerby, 209. 
 
 Castle Steads, 209. 226. 
 
 Castlethwaite, 215. 
 
 Cat Bells, 159. 171. 
 
 Catstycam, 35. 189. 
 
 Catterlen, 209. 
 
 Causey Pike, 35. 159. 175; Foot, 
 117. 
 
 Chapel Holme, 95. 
 
 Char, 137, 138. 
 
 Charles II., 209. 
 
 Claife (Crier of), 133. 
 
 Clappersgate, 109. 
 
 Clarendon, (Lord), 66. 
 
 Clarkson, (T.) 191. 
 
 Cleator Iron Works, 94. 
 
 Clifford (Lady Anne), 196. 
 
 Cliffords (Family of), 197. 
 
 Clifton, 156. 159. ; Hall, 199. 
 
 Coal Mines, 91. 
 
 Cockermouth, 98 ; to Keswick, 
 51. 99 ; Maryport, 100 ; Pen- 
 rith, 55. 99 ; Whitehaven, 92. 
 99 ; Excursions, 99. 
 
 Cockieybeck Bridge, 128. 
 
 Codale, 109. 180. 
 
 Coleridge (S. T.), 158 ; Hartley, 
 111. 
 
 Collinson's Castle, 209. 
 
 Colwith Force, 127. 
 
 Conishead Priory, 70. 72. 
 
 Coniston Lake, 138; Hall, 138; 
 Old Man, 142; Eailway routes, 
 45; to Birthwaite, 50; Leven 
 and Low Water; Ferry; 
 Hawkshead; Brathwaite; Til- 
 berthwaiteand Yew Dale, 51; 
 
 to Brough ton, Ambleside; Esth- 
 waite Water ; Langdale ; 
 Hawkshead, 139, 140; Ken- 
 dal, 150. 
 
 Constantine's Cells, 222 
 
 Constantine, (K.) 199. 
 
 Cook's House, 134. 
 
 Coome Crag, 228. 
 
 Coop Carnal, 215. 
 
 Copper Mine, 143. 
 
 Corby Castle, 223. 
 
 Countess' Pillar, 197. '. 
 
 Crackanthorpe, 212. 
 
 Craig Foot, 130. 
 
 Crinkle Crags, 120. 
 
 Croft Lodge. 
 
 Croglin, 206. 
 
 Cross-Fell, 205. 
 
 Crosthwaithe Church, 157. 
 
 Crosthwaite's Museum, 157. 
 
 Crummock Lake, 168; route to 
 Keswick, 53; Cockernxuth, 
 100. 
 
 Cunsey, 122, 
 
 Curwen's Island, 137. 
 
 Dacre Castle, 199 ; family of, 
 
 199. 224. 
 Davidson's Monument, 212. 
 Dalton, 70. 
 Dalston, 221. 
 Dallam Tower, 148. 
 Dalemain, 178. 196. 
 Dalegarth Force, 73. 
 De Quincey, 110. 142. 
 Dearham, 101. 
 Deepdale Park, 183. 
 Derwentwater, 35 ; Lake, 171, 
 
 route to Keswick, 53. 171; 
 
 Earlof, 157. 172,143. 
 Devoke Water, 80. 
 Dockwray, 183. 
 Dodd Fell, 178. 
 Dolorous Tower, 216. 
 Donnerdale, 77. 
 
 Dove's Nest (Windermere), 137. 
 Drigg, 85. 
 
 Druidical Remains, 73. 176. 
 Drumburgh, 96^ 
 
236 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Duddon Eiver Grove, 74 ; Vale, 
 
 140. 
 Dungeon Gill Force, 120. 
 Dunmail Eaise, 115. 
 Dunmallet, 35. 192. 
 
 Eagle Cra£, 117. 
 
 Eamont, The, 35 ; Bridge, 199. 
 
 Easedale Glen, 108. 
 
 Ecclerigg, 132. 
 
 Eden, 35; Eiver, 215; Hall, 200. 
 
 Edmond Castle, 226. 
 
 Edward I., 96. 102. 194, 212. 
 
 III., 224. 
 
 Egremont, 92.; to Ambleside, 126. 
 Ehen Eiver, 35. 85. 
 Elleray, 129. 138. 
 Ellenborough, 100; Lord, 199. 
 
 206. 
 Elterwater Tarn, 106. 
 Emma of Lyulph's Tower, 193. 
 Ennerdale Lake, 93. 174; route 
 
 to Keswick, 53; Egremont, 93. 
 Epitaph on a horse, 116. 
 Erratic Builders, 153. 155. 
 Eskdale to Birth waite, 50. 
 Eskhause, 82. 125. 182. 
 Eskmeols, 79. 
 Estatesmen, 24. 134. 
 Esthwaite Water, 140-1. 
 
 Fairies' Kirk, 101.210. 
 
 Fairfield, 106. 109. 129. 
 
 Falcon Crag, 172. 
 
 Fell Dyke, 174. 
 
 Fellfoot, 127. 
 
 Fellsiders, 24. 
 
 Ferry Hotel, 32; to Coniston, 51. 
 
 Fisherby Brow, Bells of, 59. 
 
 Fitt's Wood, 99. 
 
 Fleetwood, 63 ; routes, 44. 45. 
 
 Flintoft's Model of the District. 
 
 Floating Island, Keswick, 171. 
 
 Flookborough, 68. 69. 
 
 Floriston, 231. 
 
 Floutern Tarn, 35. 171. 
 
 Fouldrey Pill, 64. 
 
 Formby, 63. 58. 
 
 Fox (George), 72 
 
 Foxhow, 105. 
 
 Friar's Crag (Derwentwater),159. 
 
 Frisington, 92. 
 
 Frossick, 107. 
 
 Furness Abbey, 73. 130; Eailway 
 
 from Lancaster,45 ; Whitehaven, 
 
 45. 
 
 Gable Great, 35. 
 
 Garriston Bridge, 230. 
 
 Gatesgarth, 35. 151. 152. 
 
 Gateswater, 142. 
 
 Gelt, battle of the, 229. 
 
 Geology of the Lakes, 4. 
 
 Giant's Caves, 97. 
 
 Gibson (Bishop), 219. 
 
 Gilderdale Forest, 205. 
 
 Gillerthwaite, 84, 93. 
 
 Gilpin (B.), 152. 
 
 Gilsland, 226. 
 
 Glaramara, 190. 134. 
 
 Gleaston Castle, 73. 
 
 Glencoin Eock, 127. 183. 
 
 Glenderamakin, 35. 167. 177, 
 
 Glenderaterra, 35. 
 
 Glenridding, 183. 186. 
 
 Glossary, 33. 
 
 Goldscalp, 159. 163. 
 
 Goody Bridge, 118. 
 
 Gosforth, 86. 88. 
 
 Gough (Charles), 189. 
 
 Gowbarrow Park, 183. 
 
 Gowdar Crag, 173. 
 
 Grasmes, Eaid of the, 1 80. 
 
 Grange, 35, 68; Bridge, 173. 
 
 Grasmere, 113.; Excursions, 
 114 ; to Broughton, 48 ; to 
 Ambleside, 109. 110; Keswick, 
 115; to Paterdale, 187. 
 
 Grasmoor, 169. 
 
 Gray, 159. 144. 
 
 Great-End, 182. 
 
 Great-Gable, 81. 83. 84. 
 
 Great Langdale, 119. 
 
 Great-Eobinson, 164. 
 
 Greenhead Ghyl, 115. 
 
 Green the painter, 158. 
 
 Greenside Mines, 185. 
 
 Greenup-dale, 118. 180. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 237 
 
 Greta, 177; Hall, 157. 
 
 Greyyauds, 211. 
 
 Grey Friars, 78. 
 
 Greystoke, 200. 
 
 Grindal, (Archbishop), 88. 92. 
 
 Griesdale Pike, 175; to Paterdale, 
 
 187. 
 Gammer's How, 107. 
 Gurmerskeld, 153. 
 Gutterby Bay, 78. 
 
 Halton, 101. 
 
 Hall Fell, 168; Hill, 205. 
 Hallin Fell, 127-183. 192. 
 Hallsteads, 157. 192. 196. 
 Hanging Knot, 179; Stone, 181; 
 
 Walls of Mark Antony, 205. 
 Hard Knott, 128. 
 Hardindale, 155. 
 Harrington, 95. 97. 
 Harter Fell 153. 
 Hartley, 215. 
 Hartshope, 123. 
 Hasness, 165. 
 Hause, 35. 
 Hawes Water, 151. 152. 207; 
 
 Kendal, 51. 151; Eoutes to 
 
 Pooley Bridge, 56; to Penrith, 
 
 55. 207; to Broughton, 48; 
 
 to Paterdale, 187. 
 Hawkshead, 141; to Coniston, 
 
 51; Esthwaite Water, 51; to 
 
 Kendal, 150. 
 Hawl Ghyl, 83. 
 Hay Stacks, 83. 
 Hayes Castle, 97. 
 Hayes Water, routes to Broughton, 
 
 48; Paterdale, 187. 
 Helbre Island, 57. 
 Helm Cray, 114; Wind, 205. 
 Helvellyn, 175. 188; ascent from 
 
 Paterdale; 188; Grasmere or 
 
 Wythburn, &c. 188. 
 Hemans (Mrs.), 62. 
 Hensingham, 92. 
 Herd House, 175. 
 Herd, Hugh, 152. 
 Hesketh Newmarket, 209; to 
 
 Penrith, 55, 209. 
 
 Hesket in the Forest, 220. 
 
 Hest Bank, 67. 
 
 Heversham Hall, 148. 
 
 High Crag, 83. 
 
 High Close, 108, 122. 
 
 High Street, 132. 152. 153, 
 
 Ascent of from Paterdale, 190. 
 High Stile, 81. 
 High Ghyl Castle, 211. 
 Hill Bell, 133. 
 Hilton, 212. 
 Hindsgarth,. 35. 179. 
 Hoad Hill, 72. 
 Holker Hall, 69. 
 Holme Cultram, 229. 
 Holmes on Windermere, 122. 
 Holywell, 68. 185. 
 Hornby Castle, 65; route to, 45. 
 Honister Crag, 164.; to Keswick, 
 
 54. 164. 
 Howgill Castle, 212. 
 How Hall, 209. 
 Howk, 210. 
 How Town, 218. 
 Hoylake, 57. 
 Hugh's Cave, 208. 
 Humphrey Head, 68. 
 Hutton (John), 201. 
 
 Ibbotsholme, 131. 
 
 Ince Hall, 62. 
 
 Infell Hill, 88. 
 
 Ingiewood Forest, 194. 220. 
 
 Ing's Chapel, 151. 
 
 Ireton, 80. 
 
 Isis Parlis, 197. 
 
 Irthington, 229. 
 
 Ivy Crag, 105; Cottage, 110. 
 
 James I., 145. 196. 
 Jewsbury, Miss, 111. 
 Johnby, pele at, 196. 
 Julian's Tower, 204. 
 
 Kellet Hole, 68. 
 
 Kendal, 144; routes to Winder- 
 mere; Oxenholme, 47; Lan- 
 caster, 46; Ambleside, 51. 150; 
 Cartmel; Hawes Water, 51. 
 
238 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 151. 209; Kirkby Lonsdale; 
 Kirkby Stephen ; Newby Bridge ; 
 Orton; Shap, 52. 3 54; Pen- 
 rith, 56. 153; Milnthorpe, 148; 
 Leven'sHall, 148; Sizergh,149; 
 Hawkshead, Coniston, 150: 
 Mardale Green, 152. 209; 
 Nanbield Pass, 152. 
 
 Kent, 67. 
 
 Kentmere, 153. 152. 209. 
 
 Kepple Cove Tarn, 183. 
 
 Kernel End, 142. ' 
 
 Keskadale, 35. 163. 
 
 Keswick, 35 ; to Ambleside, 41. 52. 
 115; to Broughton, 48 ; Birth - 
 waite, 50; Cockermouth, 51; 
 to Bassenthwaite, 52. 160;Bor- 
 rodale, 52. 118. 161; Calder 
 Bridge : Crummock Water, 53 ; 
 116.168; Circuit of Derwent- 
 water, 53. 171; Ennerdale 
 Water, 53. 174; Lowes Water, 
 53. 175; Paterdale, 53; Honis- 
 ton Crag, 54. 164; Penrith, 54. 
 176; Styhead Pass; Vale of 
 St. John, 54. 184; Wastdale 
 Low Wood Inn; Skelgill, 54 
 Watendlath, 54. 117. 161 
 Whitehaven, 54; Stake Pass 
 118; Butermere, 162; Blenca- 
 thra, 167;Ulleswater, 183,218. 
 
 Kidsty Pike, 152. 
 
 Killaton, 217. 
 
 Kilgromal Bells. 59. 
 
 King Arthur, 201. 228. 
 
 King Harry, 221. 
 
 Kirk Andrews, 229. 
 
 Kirkbeck, 89 ; 
 
 Kirkby Thore, 210. 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale, 216; to Kendal, 
 52; Penrith, 210-16. 
 
 Kirkby Stephen, 219; to Kendal, 
 52; Penrith, 210. 
 
 Kirkfell, 83, 
 
 Kirkland, 205. 
 
 Kirk Linton, 221. 
 
 Kirk-Oswald, 206. 
 
 Kirkstone, 36. 123; to Ambleside, 
 49. 
 
 Knab, 110. 
 Knock's Cross, 97. 
 Knoll, 109. 
 Knot Crag, 169. 
 Knotts, 36. 
 
 Lad House, 35. 169. . 
 
 Lade Pot, 35. 152. 
 
 Lady Holm, 135. 
 
 Lady's Rake, 172. 
 
 Lake country: archaeology, 17; 
 botany, 10;customs,28; fauna, 
 16; forests, 9; fossils, 7; geo- 
 logy, 4 ; legends, 28; mountains, 
 7 ; history, 20; lakes, 7 ; passes 
 8 : tarns, 8 ; residents, 26 ; rivers, 
 8 ; rainfall, 9 ; topography, 1 -4 ; 
 waterfalls, 8 
 
 Lamb, Charles, 158. 180. 
 
 Lameside Castle, 216. 
 
 Lamplugh, 174. 
 
 Lancaster, 64; excursions, 65; 
 route from London, 37; to 
 Hormby, 45; Kendal; Newby 
 Bridge, LQverston, 46 ; Carlisle, 
 47. 
 
 Lanercost, 226. 227. 
 
 Langdall, 108. 49. 121; to Am- 
 bleside, 49. 119. 
 
 Langstreth, 121. 118. 180. 
 
 Lanthwaite Woods, 170. 
 
 Latrigg, 176. 178. 
 
 Lazonby, 207. 
 
 Lead Mine, 156. 185. 
 
 Leathes Water, 116. 
 
 Leyberthwaite. 36. 117. 
 
 Legends, 63. 68. 85. 86. 92. 96. 
 100. 112. 116. 119. 121. 169. 
 172. 176. 180. 184. 193. 200. 
 204. 205. 208. 215.- 220. 227. 
 231. 
 
 Levens Hall, 148. 
 
 Leven Sands, 69. 71. 
 
 Levens Water to Coniston, 51. 
 
 Levers Water, 142. 
 
 Liddle's Mote, 231. 
 
 Lily of the Valley Holme, 133. 
 
 Lingmell, 81-3.' 
 
 Lingmoor, 134. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 239 
 
 Linkingdale Head, 125. 
 Linthwaite Fell, 168. 
 Lissa River, 36. 84. 
 Liverpool, 59. 
 Lochinvar, 231. 
 Long Meg, 201. 
 Longsleddale, 153. 
 Long Wathby, 206. 
 Lonscale Fell, 117. 
 Lonsdale, Earl of, 194. 
 Lorton, Yew of, 165. 
 Longtown, 231. 
 
 Loughrigg Fell, 105; Tarn, 105. 
 Low Fell, 176. 
 Low Gell, 154. 
 Lowick Hall, 139. 
 Lower Heysham, 66. 
 Low Wood, 132-3; to Ambleside, 
 49; to Keswick, 54. 
 
 Lowdore Falls, 36. 173. 
 
 Low Skelgill, 134. 
 
 Low Water to Coniston, 51. 143. 
 
 Lowes Water, 175; to Keswick, 
 53, 175. 
 
 Lowther Park, 156; Castle, 202. 
 
 Lowther Vale, 202; family of, 
 203. 
 
 Luck of Eden Hall, 200. 
 
 Lucy of the Fold, 112. 
 
 Lynestead, 205. 
 
 Lytham, 59. 63. 
 
 Lyulph's Tower, 192. 193. 
 
 Macartney, Lord, 202. 
 
 Maiden Castle, 213; Way, 210. 
 
 Maiden Mawr, 20. 163. 
 
 Man, "84; Old, Mountain of, 142. 
 
 Manesty, 1 64. 
 
 Mardale, 152. 208; to Kendal, 
 51; Penrith, 55.207; to High 
 Street, 191. 
 
 Martindale, 153. 124; to Pater- 
 dale, 187. 
 
 Mary Queen of Scots, 98. 201. 
 225. 
 
 Mary of Buttermere, 167. 
 
 Materdale, 183. 
 
 Maryport,95, 100. 
 
 Mayburgh, 203. 
 
 Measand, 219. 
 Meg Merrilees, 226. 
 Melbreak, 36. 
 Melmerby, 205. 
 Mell Fell, 177. 
 Mickleden, 36. 
 Mickledore, 36. 81. 
 Middleton Hall, 146. 
 Millbeck, 180. 
 Millom, 74. 
 Milnthorpe, 148. 
 Mongrisdale, 168. 
 
 Moresby, 94. 97. 
 
 Moreville, Hugh de, 206. 
 
 Morecambe Bay, 66. 
 
 Mosedale, 83. 84. 
 
 Motherby, Stone Circle, 196/ 
 
 Mounsey of Pakedale, 194. 
 
 Morland, 212. 
 
 Mumps Hall, 226. 
 
 Mortal man, 135. 
 
 Monk Cociston, 139. 
 
 Muncaster Castle, 80. 
 
 Nabscar, 105. 106. 
 
 Nallin, 36. 
 
 Nan Bield, 36; Pass, 152; to 
 Penrith, 55; Kendal, 51. 
 
 Naworth Castle, 223. 
 
 Nell Fell, 177 
 
 Nent Force, 205. 
 
 Nethertown, 85. 
 
 Netherby Hall, 231. . 
 
 Netherwartdale, 81. 
 
 Newbiggin Hall, 221. 
 
 Newby Bridge, routes to, 45; to 
 Kendal, 52; to Ambleside, 122. 
 
 New Brighton, 58. 
 
 Newfield, 77. 140. 
 
 Newlands Vale Hause, 164. 
 
 Newton Arlosh, 207. 
 
 Nicolson, Bishop, 174; Arch- 
 bishop, 206. 
 
 Nine Standards, 215. 
 
 Noddle Fell, 115. 184. 
 
 Norman remains, 66. 25. 101. 
 
 Nunnery, 206; to Penrith, 55. 
 
 Oakrigg, 142. 
 
240 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Old Carlisle, 101; Penrith, 219. 
 
 Old Man,142. 
 
 Old Penrith, 219. 
 
 Ormathwaite, 129. 150. 
 
 Ormeshead, 212. 
 
 Orrest Head, 36. 
 
 Orton, 155; to Kendal, 52. 155. 
 
 Ousby, 205. 
 
 Ouse Bridge, 99. 
 
 Overbeck Bridge, 84. 
 
 Owen Caesarius, 195. 
 
 Oxenfell, 127. 
 
 Paddy End, 142. 
 
 Paley, W., 207. 221. 
 
 Pap Castle, 99. 
 
 Parkgate, 57. 
 
 Parr, Queen C, 149. 
 
 Parton, 94. 
 
 Paterdale, 185; routes to Deep- 
 dale, 186; and Grasmere, 56. 
 187; to Ambleside, 41. 186. 
 Keswick, 53. 185; Penrith, 56. 
 185; Deepdale, 186; Mar- 
 tindale, 187; Pooley Bridge, 
 218. 
 
 Paterdale, 21 8; Keswick, 218. 
 
 Paul Jones, 90. 
 
 Pavey Ark, 120. 
 
 Pelter Bridge, 109. 
 
 Penruddock, 177. 
 
 Pen dragon, 215. 
 
 Penrith, 194; routes to Amble- 
 side, 49. 123; Appleby, 55. 
 210; Keswick, 54. 55. 176; 
 Cockermouth, Hesketh New- 
 market; the Nunnery; Carlisle, 
 
 55. 204. 219. 220; Wigton; 
 Hawes Water; Nanbield Pass, 
 55; Kendal; 56. 153; Pater- 
 dale, 56. 183; Shap Abbey, 
 
 56. 219 ; Blencathra, 167 ; 
 Skiddaw, 178; Styhead Pass, 
 180; Ulleswater, 183; Alston, 
 205; Kirkby Stephen and 
 Kirkby Lonsdale, 210; Pooley 
 Bridge, 217.218.219. 
 
 Picture Galleries, 62. 69. 72. 88. 
 89. 148-9. 201. 223. 225. 
 
 Piel, 69; Castle, 69; to Ulver- 
 
 ston, 69. 
 Pillar, 175. 
 
 Place Fell, 192; Quarry, 186. 
 Plumbago, 181. 
 Plumpton. 219. 
 Ponsonby Hall, 88. 
 Pooley Bridge, 178; route to 
 
 Hawes water, 56 ; to Penrith, 
 
 217. 
 Port Carlisle, 48. 96. 229. 
 Portinscale, 157. 
 Poulton, 67. 
 Poolwyke, 134. 122. 
 Potter Fell, 151. 
 Pott's Well, 210. 
 Priestman, 169. 
 Priest's Pot, 141. 
 Prince Charles Stuart, 155. 159. 
 
 194. 228. 
 
 Quernmore Park, 65. 
 Quillinan, 110. 114. 
 
 Eackes Hall, 63. 
 
 Eadcliffe, Mrs., 192. 
 
 Bampsholme, 172. 
 
 Eampside, 69. 
 
 Eannerdale Knot, 169. 
 
 Eansborrow Crag, 153. 
 
 Eatcliffe, 156. 
 
 Eavencrag, 117. 
 
 Eavenglass, 79 ; to Broughton, 75; 
 Devocke Water and Burnscar„ 
 80; to Wastwater, 80; to. 
 Ambleside, 49; to S. Bee's, 85, 
 
 Eavenstone Dale, 216. 
 
 Eawling End, 163. 
 
 Eayrigg, 131, 137. 
 
 Eeay Castle, 213. 
 
 EedBank, 115, 108, 110. 
 
 Eed Deer, 187. 
 
 Eed Spears, 209. 
 
 Eed Stone Camp, 196. 
 
 Eed Tarn, 188.' 
 
 Eichmond, Legh, 62. 
 
 Eiggendale, 152. 
 
 Eobinhood, 219. 
 
 Eobinson Force, 164. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 241 
 
 Rock Cliffe, 230. 
 
 Roman Stations, 100, 101, 102. 
 
 Romney, 145. 
 
 Roscoe, 62. 
 
 Rose Castle, 102. 219. 
 
 Rose Hill, 226. 
 
 Rosghyl, 141. 
 
 Rossall, 64. 59. 
 
 Rosset Ghyl, 82. 
 
 Rosthwaite, 161, 162. 180. 
 
 Rotha, 36. 
 
 Rush-bearing, 104. 
 
 Rydal, 110; Mount, 111; Mere, 
 110; Excursions to Ambleside, 
 109, 110; Keswick, 115. 
 
 Saddleback, 167. 
 
 Sadgill Bridge, 151 
 
 Salkeld, 207. 
 
 Sandys, 141. 
 
 Santon Bridge, 81. 
 
 Sawrey, 133. 151. 
 
 Scaleby Castle, 221. 
 
 Scale Force, 36. 170. 
 
 Scalehill, 36. 165. 
 
 Scales, 177. 
 
 Scandale Beck, 106. 
 
 Scandale Screes, 36. 
 
 Scarf Gap, 36. 83; to Keswick, 
 
 53, 54; to Ambleside. 52. 
 Scawfell Pikes, 81. 84. 
 Soots Rake, 132. 190; Gate, 141. 
 Scott, Sir W., 113. 136. 137. 195. 
 
 227; Michael, 100. 202. 217. 
 Scout Scar, 147. 
 Screes, 82. 
 Sea Scales, 85. 
 Seatallan, 82. 
 Seathwaite to Broughton, 74 ; 
 
 Coniston, 51. 
 Seathwaite, 76. 80. 
 Seat Sandal, 115. 
 Seatollar, 164. 
 Sebergham Hall, 221. 
 " Seldom seen/' 183. 
 Selker Bay, 79. 
 Seton, 78. 
 Shap Abbey, 155; to Kendal, 52; 
 
 Penrith,*56. 219. 
 
 Shap Wells, 155. 
 
 Sharp Edge, 168. 
 
 Shelley, P. B., 158. 
 
 " Shepherd Lord," the, 177. 197. 
 
 Shoulthwaite Moss, 117. 
 
 Silloth, 36; route to, 48. 229. 
 230. 
 
 Silver How, 10&. 
 
 Simnell, L., 69. 
 
 Simon's Nick, 142. 
 
 Sizergh Hall, 149. 
 
 Skelghyl to Keswick, 54; Amble- 
 side, 107. 
 
 Skelwith Force, 127. 
 
 Skiddaw, 36; ascent of from Kes- 
 wick, 178. 
 
 Skirsgill, 196. 
 
 Skirwith Abbey, 205. 
 
 Slate Quarries, 138. 
 
 Sleddale, 36. 
 
 Small Water, 208. 
 
 Smeathwaite Bridge, 184. 
 
 Smith, Charlotte, 138. 141. 
 
 Sock Bridge, old hall of, 199. 
 
 Solway Firth, 96, 97. 
 
 Sol way Moss, 230. 
 
 Sour Milk Force, 108. 
 
 Souter Fell, 36. 168. 
 
 Southey, 137. 157-8. 180. 202. 
 
 Southport, 62. 58. 
 
 Spade, Adam, 210. 
 
 Spital House, 213. 
 
 Springfield, 177. 
 
 Sprinkling Tarn, 182. 
 
 St. Bees, 86. 
 
 St. Herbert, 172. 
 
 St. Sunday, 35. 1 68. 
 
 Stake Pass, 36. 
 
 Stanhar, 184. 
 
 Stanley Force, 73. 
 
 Stanwix, 221. 
 
 Station of Windermere, 132. 
 
 Staveley, 150. 
 
 Steam yachts, on the lakes, 43. 51. 
 56. 138, 139. 194. 
 
 Steel Fell, 36. 
 
 Stenkrith Bridge, 215. 
 
 Stickle, 37. 
 
 Stock Ghyl, 104; Head, 94. 
 
 R 
 
242 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Stockley Bridge, 182. 
 
 Stone Carrow, 196. 
 
 Stone Raise, 210. 
 
 Stonethwaite, 180. 
 
 Storrs Hall, 136. 
 
 Strands, 81 ; to Ambleside, 126. 
 
 Striding Edge, 37. 189. 
 
 Sty barrow Crag, 192. 
 
 Styhead Pass, 37. 125. 182 ; to 
 Keswick, 54. 180; Ambleside, 
 82. 125; Wasdale, 83; Tarn, 
 84. 182. 
 
 Submarine Forest, 57. 96. 147. 
 
 Sunday, St., 37. 124. 
 
 Sunken Church, 73. 
 
 Swallow Holes, 37. 
 
 Swan Inn, 106. 114. 
 
 Swart-Moor, 72. 
 
 Swarth Fell, 183. 192. 
 
 Talkin Tarn, 228. 
 
 Tebay, 154. 
 
 Temple Sowerby, 210. 
 
 Tennyson, 138. 
 
 Tent Lodge, 138. 
 
 Thelkeld Tarn, 168. 
 
 Thirlmere, 116. 
 
 Thornby How, 119. 
 
 Thornthwaite Crag, 132. 190. 
 
 Thwang Crag, 112. 
 
 Three-foot Brander, 136. 
 
 Three Shire Stones, 127. 
 
 Threlkeld Hall, 177. 
 
 Thurland Castle, 66. 
 
 Thurstan Water, 1 38. 
 
 Tickell, the poet, 99. 
 
 Tilberthwaite, 51. 144. 
 
 Tilberthwaite, route to Ambleside 
 50; to Coniston, 51. 
 
 Torver, 139. 
 
 Town How, 101. 
 
 Traveller's Nest, 123. 
 
 Trenck (Baron), 125. 
 
 Troutbeck, 107, 134; to Amble- 
 side, 50; Birth waite, 131; 
 Low wood, 134. 
 
 Tutman's Hole, 205. 
 
 Ulleswater, 191; to Birth waite, 
 
 50: Ambleside, 49; Penrith, 
 83; Keswick, 191. 
 
 Ulpha Kirk, 75. 
 
 Ulverston, 67. 71.; Excursions 
 72 ; routes to Bowness, Hawks- 
 head and Windermere, 56; 
 Lancaster, 45. 72.; Coniston, 
 45; to Piel, 69. 
 
 Underbarrow, 147. 
 
 Upper Denton, 227. 
 
 WadlingTam, 220. 
 
 Wadmine, 180. 
 
 Wales, Prince of, 198. 
 
 Walker (R.), 75. 
 
 Wallabarrow, 77. 
 
 Wallow Crag, 159. 208. 
 
 Walna Scar, 139. 
 
 Walney Island, 70. 
 
 Wansfell, 132; Pike, 107. 
 
 Warcop, 213. 
 
 Warton, 67. 
 
 Warwick, 221. 
 
 Wasdale, 57 ; to Keswick, 54. 
 
 Wastdale Head, 81; to Styhead 
 Pass, 83 ; to Mosedale, 84. 
 
 Wastwater, 80 ; route to Raven- 
 glass, 80; to Cockermouth 
 and Ambleside, 126. 
 
 Watendleth, 161 ; to Keswick, 
 54. 173. 
 
 Watercrook, 46. 
 
 Waterdale, 116. 
 
 Waterhead ; New Inn, 139; ex- 
 cursions, 139. 
 
 Water Millock, 49. 192. 218. 
 
 Watch-gate, 150. 
 
 Watson, (Bp.), 138. 148. 
 
 Welter Crag, 208. 
 
 Wetherlam, 190. 
 
 Wharton, 216; Lord, 215. 216.: 
 
 Whinfell, 204. 
 
 Whinlatter, 37. 165. 
 
 Whitehaven, 89 ; routes to Cock- 
 ermouth, 56. 92. 98 ; Egre- 
 mont, 92 ; Keswick, 56. 54 ; 
 to Eunnerdale and Loweswater; 
 to Wastwater, 57 ; steamers, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 243 
 
 43 ; to Furness, 45. ; to Mary- 
 port and Cockermouth, 46 ; to 
 Kendal, 94 ; Bowness, 94 ; 
 Workington, 97; to Ambleside, 
 50 ; excursions, 92. 94. 126. 
 
 Whiteless, 164. 
 
 White Moss Quarry, 112. 
 
 Whiteside, 169. 184. 
 
 Whitestones, 210. 
 
 Whittington, Sir E., 207. 
 
 Whittlegate, 29.. 
 
 Wigton, 39. 101.; to Penrith, 55. 
 
 Wilberforce, 131. 
 
 Wilson, 137. 
 
 Winlass How, 134. 
 
 Windermere, 37. 135.; to Kendal, 
 47.; Circuit of, 50. 
 
 Winter Crag, 183. 
 
 Wise Men of Borrodale, 1 62. 
 
 Wishing Gate, 113-4. 
 
 Witches' Stair, 217. 
 Wordsworth (W.) 111. 114. 137. 
 
 141. 158. 180. 202. 
 Workington, 95. 97 ; route to 
 
 Keswick, 56.; Cockermouth, 
 
 46. 98; Whitehaven, 97 ; 
 
 Carlisle, 100. 
 Wotobank, 88. 
 Woundale, 195. 
 Wray Castle, 132. 
 Wrynose, 127. 
 Wytheburn, 119 ; ascent of Hel- 
 
 vellyn, 188. 
 
 Yanwath, 177. 204. 
 
 Yewbarrow, 83. 
 
 Yewdale to Windermere, 50 ; 
 
 Conistan, 51. 
 Yew Trees, 186. 
 Yoke, 37. 
 
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