<^. ■' " JL" " o ^4 o^ . _ .. • .0 v, ■ , J ' ^-l- Oft - 'i , , , -b ^c ■■v- ,.;^ 'o . 1 O^-.-/ %''^\^^ °^^--"^^' ,. "-^.''^'s/ % o ■*b^ A •o, -^'^'^ '°4^°', o > ^■ ^ % 4 o '^--0^ °o .^^ <'^ o > '. ■^ . 5 • • o > - O A^ . > • • ' V- <> .^ .<^^ ri^ . 5 • • , o > ■^" V \^ o ^^ A^ 'X- •^ o. : - ■ .0 a\ A 1 _■/-■*, '''-- 0' -7 . - » « ' a"^ ^o ' , , s * > ^ .0^^ >i " -^ >•' • .* iV ?-t^ '^ '^ . ■ ^^ -^^ % A^ '> '%.^^ /" ^' '7- .-^^ S O ^ V . - v^ . ^ V '---.•^^ V' ■.* .*^ A A'^ v-^. .}>■ V, 'r ?'.,'?,'„ -* v'"-\f< ':«. 5;'' ,'\ .*^ o V A A" "^ ■• " " Cl s • * ;■ Ji- .^' /•^. ^ .c;^^ 2" o ^^o -. % a" "^'U ■;.° ^^c,'' o V .^C• . 0 ^v. t. V .^" v-s?^-.^' '^ '^^..A^^ v^^\ i 1 m i m II i^me. Vdtd-Simond^' Drapery Susiem Gtiari i>^l t F=r=?icz:E:, ^3-oo- / Z,^'*^ U ■w= MILWAUKEE SCHOOL OF DRESS CUTTING, No. 467 Milwaukee Street, MILWAUKEE, WIS. COPYRIGHT, 1889 By Mme. Anna Veitch-Simonds. m m mi m i m m m •Sim « UAan. •■«•«••• * runTau, 'hlxuku. y ^ <■ \' , side gore, then across top, lapping each plait evenly, around the band any extra fullness. MME. YEITCH-SIMONDS' To Make a Box-Plaited Skirt. Follow tlie same rule as for kilts, having the material tliree times the width of the skirt if the plaits are to meet each other. If not, measure the distance of skirt desired, allowing tliree times the width of the plaits and once the width of space required to cover the bottom of the skirt. Baste and press the same as for kilt skirt. Tape the same. To Make a Double Box-Plaited Skirt. You will allow four times and a half the width of space it is to cover, laying first plain box plait, then one kilt directly under, leaving space on the right side of the width desired, from one-half to one inch. In taping, tape botli plaits at once. Press and finish the same as for kilt. To Make Box Plaits That Are Desired to Be Narrower at the Waist Line Than at the Bottom of the Skirt. The skirt must be made plain first. Tlien make the box plaits and set them on the skirt, as plaits that are not straight on the edge of the cloth will not hang well, or be even at the bot- tom, unless they are cut separatelj'^ and set on the skirt. To Allow for Shirred Skirt. Ordinary widtli of slurring requires twice the space it covers. Each row of shirring will take up one-quarter inch in length. As many rows of shirring as you desire to put across a skirt allow for each quarter of an incii, adding to the skirt length. Ruining. For ruftiing once and a iialf is the ordinarv width, unless it is required very full to Hute; then it would take one and three-quarters the width of tiie space it would cover. To Get the Length of the Drapery. First measure the length of the skirt, then always allowing tiie hem. If it is siiorter wlien draped, see what part of tiie skirt length it is by diviiling the space that it does not cover into the whole length and see what parts of the whole length are covered. If the drapery is raised higher at any one point, measure it and see how many inches it is raised in proportion to the skirt length. To Make an Apron Drapery. An apron drapery tiie proper width wlieii ilraped to cover one-third of the length of tlie skirt, three or five plaits are laid. For each plait allow four inches, as they are laid very deep and lay full across the front of skirt', l)eginning to plait five inches from the waist band, laying one plait after the other until all are laid, allowing the width uf the draping at the DEAPEBY SYSTEM CHAIIT. bottom whatever the skirt measures across at one-third of the length, as the bottom of an apron drapery mnst fit smoothly over the skirt. At tlie waist band lay darts to fit the skirt, the rest laying back to the side gore where it is cut away. To Make a Pointed Drapery. Cut the length of the .skirt, plait four deep four inch plaits on the right side, beginning at the side gore and plait towards the front, leaving a space in width to merely cover the front gore. Raise the left side twentj' inches from tiie liand and lay plaits towards the front on the band from the length, plaiting all up until it is all drau-n in, leaving drapei'y in a point. How to Cut a Drapery That Hangs Straight on One Side and Draped on the Other, Remaining Straight at the Bottom of the Siv'' -^T i^ -<■)-' 'Sf "•_^<^ ^5§:^> =^(. ^ ^^-^4 ^ FlGU ^ DRAPERY SYSTEM CHART. 17 skirt. The band measures one-quarter of an inch. In the whole length of the skirt, measure four and one-half inches, or in one incli there are four quarters, in four and one-half inches there are eighteen quarters^ hence the width of the band would be one-eighteenth of the skirt length. The gimp is three-eighths of an inch. The skirt is four and one-half inches in length. In one inch, eight eighths, in four and one-half inches there would he thirty-si.K eighths; hence the gimp will be three thirty-sixths or one-twelfth of the skirt length. How to get one-twelfth of the skirt length : Divide whatever your skirt length is into twelve equal parts, and one of those parts will be one-twelfth. The same to one-eighteenth ; divide into eighteen equal parts, and one of those parts will be one-eighteenth. The back is straight. To Trim the Waist. How to get the length to set in the vest : Measure the waist length to waist line, which is one and three-quarter inches. Now measure the length of vest, which is three-quarters of an inch. To get what part of the whole length three-quarters of an inch is, reduce the whole length to quarters, which would contain seven charters. Three-quarters of an inch would be three-sevenths of the whole length, or divide whatever the length of your waist is into seven parts, and whatever one of those parts measure, three times that amount would be three-sevenths, or the right proportion to make the length of vest according to this plate. Now, how wide to make vest: Measure width of chest from center of front to arm's-eye, measures five-eighths of an inch. The whole width would be twice five-eigthths, equal to one and one-quarter inches at the widest part. One-half of the vest measures one-quarter inch, the whole would measure twice one-quarter or one-half of an inch. The width would be two quarters. In one and one-quarter inch there is five fourths. Then one-half would be two-fifths of the chest width at the widest part of vest, which is at the neck. Then slope vest down to the bottom at the required length. To cut collars or revers at the widest part measures one-quarter of an inch or one-fifth of the chest width. The length is three-quarters of an inch on the bias side. On the straight side the length is five-eighths of an inch, or one-eighth inch shorter on the straight edge, the difference in the length being caused bv the bias side. ^b" To Cut Balance of Collar. Pin revers on waist. Measure your waist from two-thirds of the width of revers to the center of the back. Now measure 2 inches down the back from the neck on the waist around to the shortest point of revers, and you have the outside length. To make it slashed like the plate, turn back the outside corner half the width. Then measure one-half the length of the inside measure of the collar, then slope from this one-half of the inside of the collar down to one-half of the width and join collar on to revers two-thirds the width of revers, and your collar is complete. The gimp on the waist is one of the points the same as on the skirt, beginning at the shoulder seam. Figure 4. l>l:.\fKl!V SYSTEM ciLiin: i-» BRIDAL ROBE. (Sec- Fig. A'c. S-) To get the length of skirt measure plate from waist line to bottom 5 inches. To get the length of Van Dyke slash three-quarters of an inch. In the whole length there is 5 inches. When reduced to quarters there would be twenty quarters, then three-quarters of an inch would be three-twentieths of the whole length. Divide your skirt length into twenty equal parts, and whatever one of those parts measures three times that measure would be the depth to cut the slash. To Get Draping". There are three deep plaits. In each plait is 4 inches. The drapery would be cut 12 inches longer in the middle and across the front than on the sides, which is just the skirt length. To drape it pin the center of drapery to the center of skirt band. Then begin to lay plait from the front gore, one plait after the other the half of the space, laying plaits towards the front, each side the same ; the sides of drapery fitting the side gore smoothly, being gored up each side the same as sham. To find how many points or blocks to cut the bottom of the drapery into : There are eight blocks. Divide the bottom of the drapery into eight parts, and whatever one of those parts measures would be the width to cut each block. The lace under blocks requires once and a half the widtli of the bottom of tlie skirt to gather on sham. To Cut a Trained Skirt. Cut front and side gore the same as for walking length. Cut back twice the width of walking length, skirt width, which would be 44 inches, the half of width. Then wlien joining a side gore to the back begin at the top and ba.ste down to within 12 inches of the bottom of the side gore. Here insert a gore or gusset 12 inches long on the front and 18 inches on the back or gored side, making the slope once and a half the length of the front of tlie gusset. This gore must be in every skirt that has a train, to give flare when the lady walks. It should be cut in the sham. If this is not in, as the lady w-alks the weight of the train draws on the side gore, raising it from the ground. The back of the train is cut perfectly straight, any length desired, but must be 44 inches, the half of breadth. To Cut Trimming" for Waist. Measure the length of waist that the trimming covers, which is one-half ihe waist length. To get fullness, it will require twice the length of space it covers. For lace, it will require twice the width of the space it covers. Figure 5. imAPERY SYSTEM CHAUT. 21 To get the length of ;i point that is opened at the neck, get the whole waist length from neck to waist line, which is one and three-quarters inches. The space cut open is one-half an inch. In the whole length there are seven quarters. Then one-half inch would be two-sevenths of the whole length, and would be tlie right distance to make a point at tlie neck. All lengths in trimming on waist are to be measured in proportion to tlie length of waist. To Cut Sleeves. Always cut the lining plain. Tlie outside being allowed for puff or drapery from ?> to 4 inches longer than the lining all tlie way across .tlie top of sleeve, tiie length being laid in plaits when joined on the lining, the breadth being gathered around the top of lining. It is needless to give descri]>tions for fastening the veil, as tliat is adjusted according to fancy. TAILOR-MADE GOWN. (See Fig. No. 4.) To make a dress of tiiis style, it requires heavy material, as any liglit weight goods would not hang well in this design. In designing a dress, always select the design in accordance with your cloth. First, you must kuow wiiat goods you are to use in the dress, whether of light weight texture or heavy material. Never use full, heavy draping in heavy goods. Cut .sham and face it up the required depth, or the depth of the slashes, in this drapery. It may either be faced up plain or trimmed with a kilt plaiting, fine goods being used under this sla.shing, which plait in spaces so the plaits will come in each space where the drapery is slashed. To find what distance apart to lay clusters of plaits, measure blocks in draping ; measure skirt from the center of the front gore to the side gore, which is laid in two and one-half blocks, or the whole width being laid in five blocks the whole width of skirt front and side gores. Divide your width into five parts. Whatever one of those parts measures would be the required width to cut the blocks. To get the depth of blocks, measure skirt length, which measures four and three-quarters inches. The depth of slash measures one and one-quarter inch. In one inch there are four quarters, in four inches there would be sixteen quarters, and three- quarters of an inch would make nineteen quarters, which divides your skirt length into nineteen parts, and this slash is cut one and one-quarter inch. In one and one-quarter inch there would be five quarters, or five-nineteentlis of the whole skirt length. This drapery is cut to fit the sham — no fullness allowed either way in breadth or length. Cut gore the same as sham and dart at waist line to fit the l)and. Tiie basque is plain coat basque with braid decorations in military style. To find how long to cut basque, measure from neck to waist line, which measures one and tliree-quarter inch. From waist line to bottom of basque measure one inch, or in one and tliree-quarter inch, the length of waist, there are seven quarters. Below the waist line the basque measures one inch, or four-sevenths of the length of waist, or divide your waist length into seven parts, and whatever one of those parts measure, four times that amount would be the required length to cut the basque below the waist line. Figure 6. DRAPERY SYSTEM CHART. 23 To get the width of blocks in the basque : There are three blocks and one-half in the front of waist eacii side. Lap bottom of basque in three and one-half parts, and whatever one of these parts measures would be the width to cut block, and to get the depth of slash, measure one- half of tlie length of basque from the waist line down. Each block is basted firmly down and faced the whole depth with silk, the facing being cut to fit the bottom of basque and hemmed down on the wrong side. Each slash is decorated with braid. Coat sleeves finished witli a cuff one-third of the depth of the sleeve from the elbow to the wrist. Cuff decorated with buttons and cord. To find how to decorate the waist : To find the different lengths of cord, measure from the neck down the longest point in the center, which measures one and one-eighth inch ; in the whole waist length there is one and three-quarter inch. In one and three-quarter inch there are eleven eighths. In one and one-eighth inch there are nine eighths, or nine-elevenths of the waist length. The longest cord decoration is cut. The second one is cut one-ninth shorter, the third two- ninths shorter and the fourth three-ninths shorter. The three others are cut opposite in proportion with the first three. This waist is finished with a standing collar, which is cut according to rule for collar. In cutting back draperies to heavy materials, I would suggest laying fewer plaits, and so using one-fourth less material. You can lay each plait under well with one-fourth less goods, which makes the dress lighter, which, in this age of dress reform, is very necessary to study. RECEPTION DRESS. (ScY Fig. jVo.j.) This dress is made of two materials. Combination : materials of two colors of wool goods or silk and wool goods and velvet are recjuired for this dress. Decorations of lace and gimp. First find the skirt length. To get length of draperies, which measure 5 inches, cut sham according to sham rule, and face up sham the required depth on the front and right side gore, (hi the left the dress goods is jilain ; at the Ijottom on the lining and fullness gathered in at the lop, one straight breadth being required the width of the side gore at the bottom. Instead of cutting to fit the side gore, extra width is gatliered in at the waist-band. On this side there are two lace ruffles. Follow rule for ruffles, usuig twice the width of space they cover. To get the depth of ruffles, see what part of the skirt length the ruffles cover. The two ruffles cover 1 inch, or one-fifth of the skirt lengtli. One ruffle would be one-half inch, or one-tenth of the skirt length. For drapery on front gore. cut one straight width the width of the front gore at the bottom, the fullness coming from the .skirt being narrower at the top. Ilun draperies straiglit uj) the side of the front gore, lay in plaits to fit the front of skirt at tiie band towards the middle, three plaits on the left side and four on the right. Plait to fit the front gore at the band. On the right side there are kilt plaits, three in number, wliich require three times tlie space they cover, measuring at the bottom of the gore ; lay three jilaits to fit side gore at the wai.st-band. Tape plaits three times, heginning 10 inches from the waist-band: jiut eacii tape 10 ir.ches apart. In joining kilts over drapery, begin at the bottom and baste the inside of the first plait up the side Figure miAVKllY SYSTEM CIIART. 25 gore to tlie Wiiist-hand. In sewing, sew the tapes in this seuin firmly, tlieii turn panel over and baste in the side gore where it joins in the back width. Then join on back (lra])ery, which is, back of this dress, cut Princess. Front of Waist. First cut i)lain waist on the left side. On the right side cut plain waist down to the darts, over whicli is di'aped material same as draping, beginning from the first under arm seam, stretching goods over lining to hrstdart; instead of basting in the dart lay j)laits in drapery to fit waist lining. This drapery is double-breasted, for which allow twice the width of chest. What would be used in darts is laid in plaits, Uiree on each side of the center of waist. This draj)ery may be trimmed as plate with gimp, or any decoration that is desired. The bottom of waist is covered with a girdle, covered with velvet and gimp. To cut girdle, pin a paper to the bottom of the waist, from the waist line down to the bottom. Cut the sluipe of tlie bottom of waist from tlie middle to the first under arm seam, .loin the girdle in the center, fasten on the right side to the center of waist and to the end of the drapery, and hook over to the left umler arm seam. To get the length of this drapery, measure waist length, then measure what space of waist it covers. The waist length to the waist line measures 2 inches. This space, covered at the center of waist, is three-quarters of an incli, or three-(iuarters of the waist length. At tlio longest point, at the arm's eye, it measures an inch and tiiree-quarters, or six-eighths of the waist length. X'elvet sleeves are used in this design, which are finished at the wrist with buttons running half the length of the sleeve, from the wrist to the elbow. Neck decorations finished with lace, or may be finished with a collar if desired. This is a very pretty design to use in making over a dress, or where a lady would like to use two materials. MORNING DRESS. (Scv J-'/g. A'li. 6. ) The mode of this design is a style which is very much in vogue and well adapted for street or ottice dress, anything where a plain, neat dress is rec^uired. To get length of drapery, measure skirt length, which measures 5 inches. The draping in this drapery comes in the breadth, none in length. To get breadth of draping, measure the width of the front and side gores, cut straight. To get the draping, measure waistband from the center of front to where the side gore and back join, beginning to lay first plait over the front gore seam. Divide space from front gore seam to side gore seam, and lay second plait in center of band between the gores. Lay first plait one inch and a half in depth ; second plait two inches and a half in dejtth at hand, holding top of jdait lower than under side of plait, as the drapery at the side gore is longer in the center of the front on account of the gored seam. This back is laid in double box plaits, being taped once, 10 inches from the waistband down ; press plait thoroughly before joining to skirt; join according to rule. The waist to this dress is cut double- breasted, the double lireast running diagonal from right to left. r:^/ \ FiGlFE S. nUM'KRY SYSTEM CHANT. 27 It would be necessary to cut this lining each side double-breasted. On the left side of the cloth at the shoulder is laid three plaits ; for each allow 2 inches. In cutting shoulder length, measure your length of lining and cut material 6 inches longer, then baste in plaits to fit waist lining and proceed witii cutting the arm's eye and under arm curve. This side is cut double-breasted one-half of the waist length up to the left shoulder. The right side is cut double-breasted from one-half of the waist length to the bottom. Cut double-breast back over the left side to the last dart. Instead of laying darts in material stretch goods over lining on the right side and lay goods which would be used in darts in three plaits. Just across the center of lining on the left side towards the front, baste plaits up one-third of the waist length. It is necessary to finish the edge of this double breast either with gimp or revers to cover the fastening. Sleeves are cut plain coat sleeve. High standing collar at neck. Follow rule for cutting collar. The back of the bottom of the basque is cut tlie same as front, short point. On bottom of drapery this skirt is decorated with gimp, which may be used or not according to fancy. In using skirt decorations aUvays measure plate to see what depth they cover, what part of the skirt length is required in proportion, so as not to get a deep trimming on a short skirt, as all trimmings running across tend to shorten the figure. All long trimmings running from the waist length to the bottom of skirt add to the height in effect. LADY'S TEA GOWN. {S,r Fig. No. 7.1 Cut lining according to rule for Princess Wrapper. This wrapper is cut double fronts, the lining proper cut tight fitting; the double front is cut with one dart, being cut the same as under lining, only being cut away the required width to show vest and front of skirt. The lining proper darts are stitched in separate, the lining being buttoned up in front separate from the goods. To find out how much material to allow in front, take twice the width it is to cover at the bottom of the skirt. Being shirred at the neck, there are three shirs ; allow half an inch for each one, which takes up in length. To find how far to cut away to show the vest, measure the chest width. One-half of the chest width measures three-quarters of an inch ; then the whole width would be one and one-half inch. The vest covers one-half an inch, or one-third of the chest width. At the bottom, measure from the center front to the side gore, which measures one and three-quarter inch. The half of front vest measures at the bottom one half an inch. The whole would measure one inch, or twice as wide at the bottom of the skirt as at the vest in the waist at the widest point. These double sides are fastened down after the vest is inserted and trimmed with lace on plain. Any mode of decoration may be used. To find where to adjust belt: Measure front of waist length and set the belt half way below the waist line and one-half above. The back of this wrapper is cut Princess and train. Follow rule given for train. The sleeves are cut coat sleeve, wide at the wrist with flaring cuff. Figure o. DRAPERY SYSTKM (IIAHT. 29 How to cut tliu cull': Measure width of cutt at the hand. One-half measures five-eigliths of an inch. Measure width of cufl' on the upper edge. One-half measures three-quarters of an inch or one-eighth more than at the hand. The whole widtli at the hand would be one and one- quarter inch. Tiie width at the toj) would be one and one-half inch, or one-sixth more of what the measure is at the hand, which gives the flare. The cuff must be one-sixth wider of what- ever the sleeve is at the hand at the top to get the flare of cuff. It should be lined with Hnen and faced with the material of dress. The sleeve is all finished before the cuff is .set on. The right side of cuff is cut twice the length of the linen, to give length to goods to face up inside of the sleeve. To baste in sleeves, begin with the under arm one-half inch below the side curve in the back of the waist, holding the waist towards you. Baste around the armhole to the seam on the front of the sleeve, beginning back at the back seam of the sleeve; again holding the sleeve towards you, and baste around to the shoulder seam. Then any gathers or fullness that is required, put from the shoulder seam within two inches or two inches and a half towards the front, holding the sleeve toward you while basting the top part in the waist. Any gathers or fullness in the sleeve must be regulated by the size of the lady. If a tall, slim lady, they can be spread more, therefore adding to the breadth of her shoulders. If a large, fleshy lady, gather the sleeve closer and throw it higher to add to the length of her waist. MOURNING COSTUME. (.SVf Fig No. S.) This design is suitable for a mourning costume. It should be made of two materials, using Henrietta or nuns veiling for drapery, and crepe cloth for body of waist and skirt decorations and sleeves. Cut the skirt according to sham rule, and cover right side of skirt gore from the front seam back one half, which is the width at the bottom, with crepe cloth, laying clusters of tucks. There are five clusters of tucks, the first cluster being six tucks, which allow two inches, as each tuck is laid one inch in depth. In the second cluster there are five tucks the same depth, the third cluster five, fourth five, and fifth three. Allowing two inches for each tuck, it would require forty-eiglit inches longer than the skirt length to be allowed for tucks. When your goods is tucked then baste on to the side gore, beginning at front of gore, and baste across the bottom, then up the front seam to the waist line ; balance of side gore is covered with revers of crepe and two kilt plaits of goods. The crepe cloth revers covers one-half of tlie space, and the two kilt plaits the other half. Baste on revers first over the tucked panel and roll back, baste it from the bottom up to the waist band on to tlie lining, then lay on the kilt plaits from the bottom up to waist line, then across the bottom, and up to the side gore, where it joins in the back of the skirt to waist line, lapping the plaits at waist line to fit the band. To cut drapery : This drapery is cut straight skirt length at the right side, fullness coming in extra length being allowed on the left side of drapery. In this drapery there are five plaits, each plait 2 inches deep, which would require 10 inches of material. Part of this drapery comes iiiiai'Khy system ciiiht. 31 in tlie widtli and part in tlie length. For each plait allow in length 2 inches, which would require the draping cut 10 inches longer than the skirt length on the left side. Cut straight breadth, baste draping up the front .side, gore seam on the right side and across the band at the top to the center, then imste across the bottom around to the side gore, where it joins the back on skirt, and baste up side gore to within (i inches of tlio waist lino, where lay two plaits in length on side gore, the other three plaits Ijeing laid in the waist band over the side gore, from the side gore to the front gore seam, holding your goods in right hand, lower each plait until all extra length is laid in the five plaits, dropping each one 2 inches. The back of this dress is cut Princess. This waist is cut plain basque with drapery of Henrietta cloth draped from the left shoulder around to the right under arm seam. To cut drapery, allow for j)laits in the drapery. There are four plaits, for which allow each 2 inches, each plait being laid 1 inch in depth ; allow 8 inches longer than the shoulder length of waist line ; baste drapery around the armhole and down the first under arm seam, stretching goods over the lining to the second dart on tlie right side, beginning at the bottom and lay four plaits towards the center of the waist 1 inch in depth one after the other, and finish the edge cascade of goods, for which cascade use three and one-half times the space it covers. Measure from the neck on the left side down to the right under arm seam, and three times and a half what that length would measure will be the amount of the material required in this cascade. Lay in side plaits one-half inch in depth and press. Then gather and baste on to the drapery. Gather it up to fit the length of the drapery. This waist is closed down the center with small flat buttons, and the drapery hooks over from left to right. The bottom of basque is finished witli revers of crepe cloth on the left side, cut to fit the bottom of basque ; on the right side the drapery is finished with a bow of the goods, which either may be of dress material or gros grain ribbon, when it is required for mourning. MOTHER HUBBARD WRAPPER. ( Slv /''ig. No. {). ) To cut a Mother Hubbard Wrapper, cut a plain waist lining the length of waist. Cut yoke for wrapper one-third of the waist length. To cut the skirt of Mother Hubbard Wrapper, measure from one-tiiird of the waist length from the neck down the required length and add 2 inches to that length to allow for making. Allow wrapper three yards at the bottom. Cut straight lengths and plait, or gather as desired on to fit the yoke, leaving width under arms to cover the lining plain across the arm-hole, from the front yoke to back yoke. When basted on to lining, trim out arm-holes in the goods, laying one-fifth more of the width in the back of the wrapper than the front, or divide the width required for wrapper into five parts, laying three-fifths of the widtii in the back of the yoke, two-fifths in the front of yoke. To cut this sleeve: Cut plain coat sleeve lining, which covers one-half of the length of sleeve from the wrist to the elbow, with material for cutf. Then to cut puff, allow one-fifth of tlie sleeve length from the top of the sleeve to the cuff; allow one-fifth of the length longer for fullness in length and allow half of the sleeve lining width more in breadth to allow for fullness in l)readtli. Yoke may be decorated according to fancy. To get the lengths of ribljons on this plate, measure the skirt length from the yoke, down which meas- 82 MMK. VKITCH-SIMOXDS' ures t> inches; then moasnro whiit part of the length is covered with ribbon. Length of ribbon measures live and tlnve-quarters inclies, or in inches tliere are twenty-four quarters: in live and three-quarters there are twenty-three fourths, or three twenty-fourths of the skirt lengtli. To tind how much lo allow for the bows of ribbon, measure lengtli of loops, wliich measure 2 inches in length, would require 4 inches, or two-thirds of the skirt length for each loop. This ribbon may be used or not as desired. This rule for cutting Mother Hubbard Wrapper may be used either for wash goods or for wool goods. o^ WALKING DRESS. This dress is cut Princess. To cut the lining, follow rule for Princess Dress. To cut the back of dress, cut goods same as lining. The front is cut with drapery. Fii"st cut lining and stitch up darts, leaving material out 2 inches below the waist line of the darts. In cutting material allow for draping in both width and length. In length there are live plaits ; allow 2 inches for euch plait in depth, which would be 10 inches, to cut longer than the skirt length ; also allow for the hem, as the bottom of this is draped separate from the lining. The front of drapery is cut away one and one-quarter inch or the skirt length measuring three and three-quarter inches: one and one-quarter would be one-third of the skirt length. The drajjery would be cut siiorter or simply lap the corner back, and it would make its own facing — lap back 4 inches. The front and side gore measures one and one-quarter inch. The width of drapery at bottmu when draped covei-s one inch, or four-fifths of the width of the skirt. To this add the width of plaits in the drapery. The first plait me;isures one-quarter of an inch, or one-fifth of the skirt width, the second plait the same,which would be one-fifth of the skirt width, or divide your side gore and half the front width in five parts, and whatever one of those parts measures, twice that amount would be two-fifths of the width, which add to the four-fifths of the width which we found when measuring the drapery when draped. The front gore of the skirt is covered with a fancy bordered goods, or w'ith material with a fancy border, with one box plait down the center of front. This plait measures one-half inch. The half of the front gore measures three-quarters of an inch. The whole width of front would be one inch and one-half, making the box plait one-third of the width of the front gore when plaited. Divide your front gore into three equal parts. Whatever one of those parts measures would be one-third. For this plait must be allowed thive times one-third of the front width. To L:iy Phits in Dnipins^'. Begin at the waist line and lay five plaits, one after the other, laying two inches in depth. Lay waist lining on material, then measure vour skirt length with the ten inches added to it for the length of drapery : then, at this point, measure the width across the drajiery : then gore from tins up to the waist lining to get the side curve of drapery wliich joins in the side seam of the skirt. The waist lining is buttoned up separately from the material, the material being cut away to allow for vest. hUM'KHY sysTHM clLlirr. 33 To gel the widtli of vest, measure chest width. The iialf measures one-lialf iucli, llie wliole would measure oue inch. The widest poiut of vest measures oue-half iueii, or one-half of the chest width. The vest at waist line measures one-quarter inch, or one-half of the width which is at the neck or widest point. Tiiis vest is set in and made according to rule for vest, one side being fa.sten.ed firmly on the lining, tiie other hooking over and under the material of waist. Plain coat sleeve allowed with fullness at the top, which designer should use taste and judgment, allowing in proportion to the lady's figure. On this "plate" it is tiirown up one-eighth of an inch, or one-seventeenth of the sleeve length. Whatever system of cutting is used, it should give rule for cutting sleeves and allowing gathers, but designers should use judgment. If for a slim lady cut wider and liigli, if for a ileshy, short lady cut narrower and high, allowing notliing across the width of arm. THE BENEFITS OF SCIENTIFIC DRESSMAKING. The want of a scientific method of cutting leads to results not only annoying and actually ruinous to the dressmaker, but is exceedingly disagreeable to her customers. It not unfrequently happens that a customer presents herself who is pressed for time, and the work-room must be neglected to go through the tedious process of fitting her dress. It very often happens that the lady knows (or thinks she does) more about the business than does the modiste. Accordingly when the modiste has begun the most arduous part of her duty, the lady takes her position before the glass, and while she indulges in a volume of advice concerning the dressmaker's business generally, she tells her where to cut, how to pin, etc., until the distressed dressmaker begins to doubt whether she is under a course of in.struction or actually employed to cut a dress. It sometimes happens that the lady, although she may be utterly ignorant of dressmaking, will succeed, by a series of questions, which it would be impolite not to answer, in getting as good a knowledge of the business as the dressmaker, with the exception that she cannot, from want of practice, handle the shears and pins with as much facility ; but she is quite as capable of niakmg a dress as the modiste wlio works without system. .Tiie fact is, the dressmaker who works without rule has no advantage over her customer. It is undeniable that all garment cutting without system amounts to mere speculation ; the dress may fit, or it may not. Without it, the dressmaker has no certainty of cutting with accuracy ; and it is a duty the dressmaker owes to herself, as well as to her customers, to discard at once and forever the old, tedious, ruinous and uncertain mode of draping, which the march of improvement has rendered ridiculous, and embrace an easy and perfect principle, the adoption of which will open to her professional experience a new and glorious era, investing it with an increase of dignity, respect and profit. It is time that the dressmaker ceased to toil, and made her calling an artistic and rational procedure, the pursuit of wdiich will give pleasure at every step. We have seen that the modiste has before her a scientific and artistic work, and she must needs have a scientific and artistic training if she would succeed. This book of designing sup- plies all that is essential to success, and it is the only method of draping that does. It meets fully all the requirements of the subject. It states and illustrates the principles which underlie 84 MME. VErnH-SIMOXDS- the ait, and puts the artist in dross on a course of training, whicli, if faitlifully pursued, shall secure to her a perpetual development in her art and educate her in every branch of her business. It elevates dress-cutting to a commanding rank among the formative or industrial arts, and reduces its principles to an exact method and system. Tiie commonsense method of acquiring arithmetical skill is by a study of the ground rules, so that the rational method of acquiring skill in dress-cutting is by the study of it5 principles. It enables and compels the one who uses it to be exact as well as practical, and makes the cutting of a dress an attractive and orderly procedure, instead of a wearisome guess-work, as it now is to many dressmakers. It is a scientific invention, but simple and not diflicult to learn. Being based on mathematics, it assures in advance an accurate result and never fails. By this system dresses are actually drafted from measurements by means of a tape, and all the lengths and the widths of the draperies are obtained from measures t-aken of the figure for which the garment is intended, in the same manner as practiced by tailors in cutting gentlemeirs garments. When this system is used a lady can leave her measure and material with her dressmaker and have her dress returned to her with the same precision of fit as the gentleman who orders a coat from his tailor. It teaches to draw every part of the garment from the measures, including all the curves. A difficult or unusual figure can be fitted with as much precision, ease and comfort as a figure whose proportions are symmetrical. It assures accuracy in every case and gives the modiste a thorough mastery of her business. The longer she uses it the more skill she acquires. It is the only possible means by which she can master the art of designing, unless she has been trained in the art of drawing. It banishes guess- work, and gives a perfect fit without alteration, and avoids the loss of time, labor and anxiety which alteratious produce. It elevates the art of dress cutting to the art of the tailor. It not only produces the best and most satisfactory results obtainable, but it enables one to do much more of the same kind of work in the same length of time. It saves time and, as " time is money. '" it saves money. To persons knowing this systemHhoroughly and understanding the ready application of its principles, it becomes a capital in business and a source of profit. Every lady should have not only a keen appreciation of the beautiful and a true eye to detect the minutest lines of grace, but some knowl- edge of the human form — the perfection of which knowledge is the very basis of painting and sculpture ; while, on the other hand, the followei-s of the fine arts, as well as possessing a knowl- edge of anatomy, must be perfectly familiar with and have an excellent taste in dress. In this latter regard, however, there is one grand difference between the sculptor and the lady artist, viz.: the former exercises his skill upon a lifele-ss type of humanity, while the latter seeks to adorn the living, breathing, glowing reality. The sculptor spares no pains to make his drapery suitable to his figure and pleasing to the eye of the most refined and fastidious — nor does he strive in vain if he be master of the art. He is successful, and his success is sure to secure for him the warm ajiproval of all, but especially of those who judge understandingly and critically. If, then, drapery of the inanimate marble calls forth the greatest powers of the sculptor, should not the living form be treated with a little more consideration ? Under the existing order of things, every attention is paid to designing the pattern of a dress, while the cutting and making is a secondary consideration which is about equal to putting a fine piece of marble into the hands of a sculptor who only half undei-standshis business. DRAPKRV SYSTEM CHART. 35 Tlie more we consider this subject, tlie more wonderful it seems to us tliat in tliis pro- gressive, pushing age, wlien iniprovcuients are daily being made in almost every branch of industry and readily adopted, tiiat the dressmakers of the country are not more active in keeping abreast of liic times. Years ago their indifference migiit have been excused, when conservatism was more fashionable than at present. Time was when tailors might be found who, imbedded in their antifpiated notions, rather than adopt a manifest improvement, were content to pick up a penurious existence by going around the country making up garments in the old style. They knew no system, and practiced none. But the times have changed. If a tailor at the present day should seek employment as a cutter in a first-class establish- ment, and admit that ho cut without system, in all probability he would be thought a lunatic. And yet we might with the same propriety cut a gentleman's as a lady's garment without system- There is not the slightest difference, except the latter is more difficult. The principle is precisely the same. Why is it that the dressmaker has so long been the subject of incessant toil, and the recipient of scanty remuneration ? Is it because our ladies are not willing to pay fair prices for having their work done, especially when they cannot do it themselves? Not at_all. The painfuj fact is that the want of system on the part of tlie dressmaker has made for her a competitor in almost every family. And so it is and ever must continue to be with the dressmaker from the very nature of the case till she learns to excel the ordinary seamstress. We believe the time is at hand when dressmaking will be as great a success as tailoring. The great drawback is scarcity of practical and tasteful ladies to take hold of it as a business. Notiiing will pay half so well if the lady has been properly instructed. Dressmaking is an art that can and ought to be taught as tailoring and as other branches of art are taught ; but it is hard to find young ladies who are willing to accjuire the art. Shame be it on the well- educated young ladies of this country for their indifference, when it is so easy for the bright, smart and enterprising to be so independent Very truly yours, Mme. Vietch-Simonds. System of Draping entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by Mme. Veitch-Simonds, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. Persons infringing or copying in any manner the principles given in this system or appli- ances will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law. A liberal reward will be paid for any information which will lead to the conviction of persons so infringing. This magazine will reach a large number of readers of the better class. A limited number of advertisements will be received. For price of advertisements call on or address, MME. VEITCH-SIMONDS, MILWAUKEE SCHOOL OF DRESSMAKING, 467 MILWAUKEE STREET. Circulars mailed free upon application. Liberal terms to agents. 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