F^3) -W76 F 931 .W76 Copy 1 CUlLli^ ^Nl^€li>ik:^ '^!' ^« LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Chap. — -"- Copyright No. Shelf .M(J-6 ;#.# UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. RELVISEID EIDITION GUIDE YUKON GOLD FIELDS WHERE THEY ARE AND HOW TO REACH THEM B V V. WILSON WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS SEATTLE The Calvert Company 1S97 i(UH» Copyright, 1895, bv V. Wilson. ^ V^r CONTENTS. PAGE Where and What to Buy for an Outfit 17 List of Provisions 18 The Start " 20 Lake Lindeman 20 Whip-sawing 21 Lake Bennett 22 Tagish Lake 22 Caribou Crossing 23 Windy Arm 23 Tagish House 24 Lake Marsh 25 Martins' Nests 25 Salmon 25 Grand Canyon 26 White Horse Rapids 28 Proposed Tramway Route 29 Tahkeena River 30 Lake Labarge 30 Hootalinqua River 31 Big Salmon River 31 Little Salmon River 32 Five Fingers 32 Rink Rapids 33 Old Fort Selkirk 33 White River 34 Volcanic Ash Deposits 35 Stewart River 35 Sixty Mile Creek 36 Indian Creek 36 Klondyke River 36 Forty Mile Creek 37 Miller Creek 38 Freighting 38 Glacier Creek 39 Prospecting and Mining 39 Bedrock Creek 40 Bald Hills 40 Forty Mile Post 41 Dogs 42 Fort Cudahy 43 Coal Creek 43 Circle City 44 CONTENTS Birch Creek 45 Preacher Creek 46 Yukon Flats 46 Fossils 47 Lower Ramparts 48 Muklukyeto City 48 Koyukuk River , 49 Lower River Natives 49 St. Michael's Island 50 Navigation on the Yukon 51 Taku Route 52 White Pass 52 Chilkoot Pass 53 Chilkat Pass 53 Possible Railroad Route 54 Resources 54 Copper 54 Iron and Coal 55 Platinum 55 ■ Game 55 Moose 55 Caribou 55 Barren Land Caribou 56 Arctic Reindeer 56 Bear 57 Mountain Goat 1 57 Mountain Sheep 58 Lynx 58 Wolves 58 Wolverine 58 Fish 59 Discovery of Gold in the Yukon Basin 59 Source of the Yukon 61 Climate 62 Winter Clothes 62 New Discovery at Cook Inlet 63 The Yukon River 64 Indians Along the Yukon 65 Purchase of Alaska 67 Area and Extent 68 Juneau 68 Douglass Island 70 Dawson City 7° Gold Dust 70 Sale on Bedrock 71 Miners' Laws 7 1 Mining Regulations of the Yukon 73 Nature and Size of Claims 73 CONTENTS Affidavit of Application— Form H 77 " 1 77 " " " " J 78 Ogilvie's Reports— Extracts of 79 Latest Route " 83 White Pass opened up 83 Chilkoot' Route , 84 Stickeen Route 85 Other Routes 85 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FACING PAGE Dawson City i Portage Head of Lake Bennett 3 Midnight at Lake Bennett 8 Boat Building 18 Camp Life 18 Whip-sawing 18 Map 20 Lake Labarge 24 Lake Lindeman 24 Wrecked at Windy Arm 24 Looking Down Grand Canyon 26 White Horse Rapids 28 Shooting Grand Canyon 28 Head of White Horse Rapids 28 Five Finger Rapids of the Yukon 32 Sixty Mile Post 36 Towing a Boat Through Forty Mile Creek Canyon 38 Forty Mile Post 42 First Supplies at Circle City 44 Fort Cudahy 46 Steamer P. B. Weare 50 Frank Cromier's Claim, Miller Creek 52 Steamer Arctic 56 Group of Miners, Forty Mile Creek 60 Group of Miners, Ruby Sands Mine 62 Glacier, Head of Litauya Bay at the Right ... 64 Schooner Sea Gull, and Fairweather Alps in Distance 68 City of Juneau 70 TABLE OF DISTANCES. The following: distances from Juneau are taken from Ogilvie's survey as far as it has been made; the others are according to the best authorities to be found. MILES Haines Mission , 80 Taij-a 100 Head of Canoe Navigation , Taiya River 106 Summit Chilkoot Pass "4^ Head of Lake Lindeman I23>< Foot of Lake Lindeman 127^ Head of Lake Bennett 128X Foot of Lake Bennett I53^ Caribou Crossing 156 >^ Foot of Tagish Lake I73X Head of Lake Marsh . 178X Foot of Lake Marsh 197X Head of Canyon 223 Foot of Canyon 223)^ Head of White Horse Rapids 225^ Tahkeena River 240 Head of Lake Labarge 252 Foot of Lake Labarge 284 Hootalinqua River 316 Big Salmon River 349 Little Salmon River 385^ Five Finger Rapids 444 Rink Rapids 450 Pelly River 503K White River 599)4 Stewart River . 609 Sixty Mile Post ' 629 Fort Reliance 682}4 Forty INIile Post 728 Fprt Cudahy 72834: Moose Creek on Forty Mile River 754 Head of Miller Creek 788 PREFACE. The much felt want of definite information concerning the Yu- kon gold fields and how to reach them, and the almost total ab- sence of anything like a good guide book to that region, at a time when the eyes of nearly the entire mining world are turned in that direction, have prompted the author to place before the public the many facts he has learned by personal observation and dili- gent inquiry of those who have spent many years in that region. No attempt has been made to put forth a literary production. A statement of facts in simple language has been followed. It has been left to some tourist of the future to give to the public a vol- ume embellished with rhetorical figure and lofty description. This volume is intended for a hand-book to be used by everyone — tourist, prospector and miner — for ready reference, telling how^ to get into the Yukon basin, how to get out of it, and what has been found there. It is not only the purpose of these pages to "give such informa- tion as will prove of benefit to those who may undertake the trip, but also to discourage those unfit to encounter the hardships, and correctly to inform those who have been led to believe that nug- gets could be gathered from the beds of streams like pebbles. The illustrations are from photographs, and are the only ones ever saccessfull}^ taken of the upper river and mines, while the map is drawn from personal observ^ation and information given by miners. In concluding these prefatory remarks I wush to acknowledge with gratitude my indebtedness to Billy Lloyd, Frank Knight, Frank Densmore, Mr. Cornell and others, as well as to Pither, an Indian, who has traveled extensivel}' through the Yukon basin. V. W. MEMOIR. Soon after the notes from which this work was compiled were handed to the publisher, the author was taken seriously ill, and just at the hour the book comes from the press there comes also the sad new^s of the author's death. "Strange, indeed,'" one PREFACE would say, " that a man of such a strong physique, possessed of an iron will, should give way to the ravages of fever." But not so strange to one who knew the suffering and hardships encoun- tered and endured by Mr. Wilson during his voyage of explora- tion the past year in Alaska.. I met him on the morning of June 15th at the head waters of the Yukon river, and was with him during the greater part of the four thousand mile journey. While scarcely thirty years of age, he was a natural explorer, and always seemed as much at home with the Indians among rocky fastnesses of the North as he would be in the midst of the aesthetic sur- roundings of his father's home in Maine. He could transform hardships into pleasures; in the presence of danger, always calm and deliberate, a keen observer, joyful spirited, never uttering a murmur about the heavy pack upon his back while making long journej's across the mountains, but would revel in the beauty and grandeur of his surroundings. He was a man of fine abilities, a good conversationalist with pleasing manner, a strong personalit}', very kind and genial under all circumstances, making friends wherever he went. His life has been sacrificed to gain and give to the world the valuable information contained in the following pages, and in this sense it has been sacrificed for others. Having travelled the same route as the author, I can confidently say that this guide will prove invaluable to anyone going to Alaska, and in the memory of those who follow its directions will be erected an enduring monument to him who died in the hope of a life everlasting be- yond the confines of mortality. J. O. Hestwood. Seattle, January 5, i8q5. NTRODUCTORY. The rush to the Yukon last spring saw many prospectors in the field with the most promising results. Many new creeks were discovered of great extent and richness, and all the old mines yielded better results than ever before. No creek in the entire basin which was prospected with any degree of precision failed to show at least a color. The estimated amount of gold taken out of the country last year has been placed as high as one million dollars, and while this is highly improbable, the many who have returned with amounts varying from five to thirty-five thousand dollars prove beyond a doubt that the country is one of great richness. With these facts fresh before the public, at a time when the brawn and muscle of our great nation is almost at a standstill, it may reasonably be expected that many will turn their attention in this direction, and it is therefore the purpose of these pages to give such information as will be of benefit to those who undertake the trip. *The Chilkoot pass is the only route used to any extent at present by the miners and is the shortest portage from salt water to the navigable waters of the Yukon. This route leads over the Chilkoot pass down the lakes to Lewis river, thence down the Yu- kon to the mines at different points on that river. The trip is one of difficulties which will tax the endurance and nerve of the most hardy, and only such men can reasonably expect to succeed, for only with the most incessant toil, such as packing provisions over pathless mountains, towing a heavy boat ao-ainst a five to an eight-mile current over battered boulders, diggino- in the bottomless frost, sleeping where night overtakes, fighting gnats and mosquitoes by the million, shooting seething canyons and rapids, and enduring for seven long months a relentless cold which never rises above zero and frequently falls to 80 below, any man physically endowed to overcome these obstacles, who will go there for a few years, can, by strict attention to business, make a o-Qod stake, with the possibilities of a fortune. The climate is one unequalled for health, the summer months * See later iuformatiou in regard to other passes. INTRODUCTORY are delightful, game is plenty in season, and the winters, while cold, are healthy and help to recuperate the lost vitality from the incessant toil of summer. , The next few years will see wagon roads and trails through the Coast range, steamers on the lakes and upper river, and the whole of the vast upper country will be made accessible to the miner. Then hundreds will flock there, and ten years will see a population of one hundred thousand people in the Yukon basin. Then its vast richness will become the by-word of the world, for it is a poor man's country — nature has stored her treasure in a safe of ice with a time-lock which only opens in the long sunny days of summer. Hydraulic mining is made impossible, owing to lack of water, for only the glacial drip of the hills is accessible in the gulches which carry the most gold. This will make its period of produc- tiveness much greater, while capital will find lucrative investments in the rich lodes of gold, iron, coal and copper, and in the bars of the rivers which have become no longer useful to the pan or cradle in the hands of the miner. All along the whole route, from the Coast range down to old Fort Yukon, the close observer can see vast treasures in the mountains — coal, marble and copper — only waiting for the country to develop to such an extent as to bring them within reach of the outside world. The country south of the Pelly river is quite well timbered. It is a good grazing country, all the hardy vegetables grow well, and even wheat ripens. It is a fine game and fish country. Bear of several varieties, moose, caribou, wolves and many fur-bearing animals abound. It is doubtless the greatest country in the world for the .silver and the black fox. The rivers and lakes are teeming with many varieties of fish, while grouse and rabbits are numerous along the shore. Water foul of many kinds are plentiful and their long so- iourning iu these inland waters gives to their flesh a flavor which, although high and gamey, never acquires that repulsive fishy taste so universal to the fowls of this coast. When once this country is made accessible from the Sound points by proper transportation facilities it can be reached in ten davs Then it will become one of the greatest tourist countries of the world, for where is grander scenery, a more beautiful climate, or a more favored .spot than is this lake country during three months INTRODUCTORY in summer? The shores are bordered by strips of green meadow, bedecked with wild roses and an endless varietj' of flowers of the most delicate tints, while terraced, open and timbered slopes stretch away to high mountains, which in turn are backed by snow-capped peaks. During the whole summer scarcely any rain falls, with the ex- ception of an occasional thunder-shower; the sun is seldom lost sight of except for a brief period at night. Within three years it will be possible to leave Seattle in spring, work in the mines all summer and return in the fall. Then the importance of these vast gold fields will come to be realized, and in the near future the word Yukon will associate itself so closely with that of gold, that its mere mention will convey impressions of an Eldorado, rivaling that of fable. THE GUIDE BOOK THE GOLI)-FIELI»« OF THE YUKON WHERE AND WHAT TO BUY FOR AN OUTFIT. In deciding to make the trip, the greatest considerations are how long it is necessary to stay, how much money is needed and the results to be attained. The answer to the last question, here as in all other countries, depends entirely on the man. The country is of such extent and richness that the possibilities are unlimited, and a good rustler cannot fail to make a good round sum if he will stay at least three years. Little can be accomplished in less time than that, unless one is indeed lucky. A good part of the first season will be consumed in reaching the mines ; then, if a claim is located, only the preliminary work can be done. The second 5'ear it can be well opened up and in all probability some money made. The third year usually gives the promised results. I would advise no man to start with less than four hundred dollars, as the expense of reaching the mines is considerable and the companies doing business there refuse absolutely to give credit, as they can sell all their goods for ready cash. Some men who wanted to remain were obliged to leave the country last year on that account. The companies doing business there have in the past helped such men out of the countrj-, but in the future, owing to this 18 GUIDE TO THE YUKON fact becoming generally known, they will refuse to give an}' assistance whatever. This decision, I understand, they will ad- vertise extensively this coming spring. Having decided to make the trip the outfit needed for the long journey down the river to the mines' is of the greatest considera- tion. The actual necessities for the trip are given in a list below. The supply of clothes should be governed by one's needs, taste and purse. It is also desirable to take along a small, well-filled medicine chest. The outfit proper can be bought to better advantage in Seattle than elsewhere, for the large outfitting establishments there have learned from long experience what is most needed and their prices will compare favorably with prices on the Pacific Coast. One may be sure of getting just vv^hat is needed without any extra weight, which is of the greatest importance, as many hard portages are to be encountered on the trip. LIST OP PROVISIONS FOR ONE MAN ONE MONTH: Twenty pounds of flour with baking powder 12 pounds of bacon 6 pounds of beans 5 pounds of dried fruit 3 pounds of dessicated vegetables 4 pounds of butter 5 pounds of sugar 4 cans of milk 1 pound of tea 3 pounds of coffee 2 pounds of salt 5 pounds of corn meal Pepper Matches Mustard Cooking utensils and dishes I frying pan 1 water kettle Tent Yukon stove 2 pair good blankets I rubber blanket 1 bean pot 2 plates I drinking cup I tea pot I knife and fork I large and i small cooking pan TOOLS FOR BOAT BUILDING. I jack plane I whip saw I hand saw I rip saw I draw knife I ax I hatchet I pocket rule 6 pounds of assorted nails 3 pounds of oakum 5 pounds of pitch 50 feet of 5^ rope Mosquito netting 1 pair crag-proof hip boots Snow-glasses Medicines The above is the list of provisions generally taken by miners, and is sufficient for one man for one month. The length of the trip, I w y GUIDE TO THE YUKON 19 will be regulated by the season of starting and the amount neces- sary lor the entire trip easily ascertained. That is, if parties desire to do their own transporting over the divide they should start not later than the first of April — better by the middle of March — then they can sleigh their outfit over the summit and down the lakes to where suitable boat timber can be found. If the start is made by the middle of March, the whole distance of the lakes can be accomplished by sleigh, a boat built and the start made down the river as soon as it breaks up, which is much earlier than on the lakes. By doing this the mines may be reached four weeks earlier than by building the boat at the head of the lakes and waiting for the ice to leave. The trip down the lakes b}^ sleigh is usually exciting; a large sail is fixed to the sleigh and long distances are made in a single day over the hard snow and ice. If the start is made later than the last of April it is customary to hire the packing done bj^ the Indians, who pack to Lake Lindeman, a distance of twenty- four miles, for fourteen dollars per hundred. There is no timber on the lake suitable for boat building, and a raft will have to be made to take the outfit to where better timber can be found. A good rifle of large calibre should be taken along, as large game is plenty. Also a trout line for grayling, which can be caught with a small black fly at the mouth of small streams and at the foot of rapids all along below the lakes. A good pair of snow glasses should not be overlooked, as attacks of snow blind- ness are only thus prevented in crossing the summit, and nothing proves more painful. In several cases it has actually driven miners insane, and often delays those not thus provided for days and even weeks. E.' Valentine, of Juneau, keeps a special glass, at a small cost, adapted to the trip. It is customary to take min- ing tools from Juneau for prospecting along the trip or for any stop that might be made on the way down the river. One man should not attempt to make the trip alone, and where four or five go in one party one tent, stove and set of tools will do for all, thus making the outfit of each lighter and also lessening the cost. One of each party should have some knowledge of boat building; the boats mostly in use are the long, double-end bateau, but for a party of five or six a scow of good depth will be found convenient and roomy, will run bad water and is easily built. GUIDE TO THE YUKON THE START. OVER THE SUMMIT AND DOWN LAKE LINDEMAN. At *Tai5'a the actual journey begins. If the trip is made by sleighs the parties usually do their own work, but if the snow and ice have left the canyon then the outfit will have to be packed to Lake Lindeman. Indian packers can be found without much difficulty to pack for the regulation price, fourteen dollars per hundred pounds, the distance being about twenty-four miles. Canoes can be used for some six miles up the Taiya river to the canyon where the trail leads up the rugged sides along a timbered shelf overlooking the canyon until Sheep Camp is reached; this is practically the timber line, and from here to the summit the trail leads up a narrow and precipitous defile. The summit is fifteen miles distant and thirty-five hundred feet above tide water. Man}' glaciers are passed in the fifteen miles. After leaving the summit there is a sheer descent of five hundred feet to the bed of Crater lake. This lake retains snow and ice all the year and undoubtedly occupies an extinct crater. The water has cut a small canyon down the mountain side, which should be followed to Lake Lindeman. LAKE LINDEMAN. THE FIRST NAVIGABLE WATERS RUNNING INTO THE YUKON. Around the lake the timber is nearly all burned off", there being none suitable for boat building. Here a raft should be made, with a deck of small poles some foot or more above the body, thus pre- venting the waves from wetting the outfit, which should be pro- tected by water-tight sacks, either of oilskin or canvas. The dried timber makes good material for rafts, but as it is small a great deal will necessarily have to be used. Lake Lindeman occupies the terminus of the same valley occupied by Lake Bennett, and is sepa- rated from the latter by a short portage of three-fourths of a mile, the fall in this distance being about twenty feet. The stream con- necting the two is crooked and very rocky, making it highly un- safe for a boat. The landing at Lindeman is on the right and there is a good Indian trail over the sandy soil. * Spelled Dyea by the white inhabitants. See later information in regard to other passes. GUIDE TO THE YUKON 21 The formation of the Lake Lindeman country is granite, like that of the Coast range; the mountains are high and precipitous on all sides, forming a scene of wildness and grandeur unequalled. Two small streams enter Lindeman at the head, one occupying the canyon followed by the trail from Crater lake, the other run- ning from the west and connecting two small lakes with Linde- man. The lower end of this lake is shallow and filled with boulders, the portage being only a pile of moraine caused by glacial action through which the outlet passes. Lake Liudeman is about six miles long with an average width of one mile, and opens up from May 15th to June loth. After reaching Lake Bennett the journey may be continued by raft, or by going up a small river, which enters the head of the lake from the west, a distance of one mile, where good boat timber may be found. This river comes tearing down the mountain side, forming a succession of rapids and bringing material that has shoaled the head of Lake Bennett for some distance. WHIP SAWING. ''■ If it is decided to build the boat at that point the timber will have to be packed from where it is sawed to navigable water. The only timber here used in the construction of boats is spruce or Norway pine. After locating the timber the first thing nec- essary is the construction of a saw-pit. This is done by finding trees so arranged as to support the cross pieces which are notched to fit the stump that has been cut the proper distance from the ground. If four trees cannot be found to act as supports, the saw-pit may be built by cutting small trees into short pieces and building up to the proper height. Often a good axman will be able to fell the tree to be sawed into the pit, thus saving the time and trouble of skidding up and rolling the log in place, which sometimes proves a very difficult task. The greatest care should always be taken that the cross pieces are firmly in place and not liable to slip, or accidents may occur. An accompanying cut will give some idea of the manner in which the pit should be built, showing the log blocked in place so as to rest firmly on the cross pieces. * Lumber is now shipped from Seattle and taken over the summit bj' pack horses. 22 GUIDE TO THE YUKON It should first be slabbed after ascertaining how wide a board it will make. The ends are squared and a plumb line made down the center of each end, then half the width of the board to be sawed will be laid off each side of this center line and a line struck from end to end on top. the log turned over and lined on the un- der side. This will bring the lumber sawed as nearl}' out of the center as possible. Then turn it back in place and the top line will be found directlj- above the bottom one. After the slabs are taken off and the log turned so the slabbed side will rest on the cross pieces, make a plumb-line again at right angles with the slab, then mark off as many boards each side of this line as the log will make and line them top and bottom. The ends may be all sawed up to the cro.ss pieces and the log moved one w^ay or the other until the scarf will admit the saw. After the lumber is sawed it will probably need some dressing. The slabs wall answer for oars and timbers for the boat, which will be built according to the needs of the part3\ LAKE BENNETT AND TAGISH EAKE. Lake Bennett has an average breadth of one mile with an ex- treme breadth of five, and is twenty-six miles long. In running this lake on raft or in boat much care should be taken, as strong winds are sure to be encountered. These are noticed most at the upper end of the lake, which occupies virtually a large canyon. The winds are always in the south and are caused by the hot air of the inland valleys, which in turn is supplemented b}'^ the cooler air of the coast, rushing inland over the low passes and down the lakes. High mountains rise abruptly on either side, making it exceedingly difficult to find a landing for some miles down the lake. Lake Bennett thus- forms a funnel for the Chilkoot pass, while Windy Arm is continually swept by the currents of the White pass. These winds die out in the latter part of the night and early morning, but as the sun's warm rays heat the inland val- leys their force increases until they reach the dignity of a high gale, which sometimes delays the boatmen for days. Few have ever crossed the Windy Arm without having good cause to re- member it. GUIDE TO THE YUKON 23 A large arm comes into Bennett from the west which Schwatka called Wheeton river. Lake Bennett is surrounded by lofty mountains, some reaching a height of eight thousand feet. About five miles down the lake the formation changes from the Coast range granite to that of limestone, the change forming a definite line which crosses the lake obliquely and can be followed for miles. The formation for miles north of this is carboniferous with croppings of coal and iron. Volcanic material is found here as well as along the entire length of the route. The lower end of Bennett broadens out into a beautiful valley which stretches away to the north. It proved a great disappointment when we learned that our course turned abruptly around the mountain to the east instead of following this inviting looking country, which we had felt sure was the course of the river. Low-terraced, grassy and open-timbered slopes here skirt the lakes and foothills of the higher mountains, as well as all the lakes below\ The climate is quite dry, and little rain falls except an occasional thunder shower. The sun is warm and the clouds fleecy, but the snow-capped peaks alwa5^s give the air those cool, bracing propensities which prove so disastrous to the bacon and beans. CARIBOU CROSSING. The connecting waters between Lake Bennett and Tagish lake constitute w^hat is called Caribou crossing. Here there is a slight current, while the channel is very crooked and shallow. This is one of the crossings used by the bands of barren-land caribou in their migration south in the fall and return in the spring. WINDY ARM. Two miles from Caribou crossing the Windy Arm enters Tagish lake. There are three islands at its mouth, while beyond are high mountains of limestone and marble. The marble is of a fine quality and curiously marked with gray and black, which would undoubtedly give a beautiful effect when polished. Beyond these cliffs a dome-shaped mountain can be seen standing out alone and 24 GUIDE TO THE YUKON of very defined form; it appears to be of massive limestone. On the west the countr}^ becomes better timbered, and a few miles further the lake arm comes in from the southeast. This appears to be the main lake, it being much the larger, occupying a large, broad valley as far as the eye can reach. I was informed by an Indian that it runs back three days' jour- ney, or forty miles, also that other lakes lie beyond, and that the connections have no currents; thus it becomes impossible to tell the extent of navigable waters of this wonderful lake system, they not having been explored. These lakes lie at an elevation of about twenty-two hundred feet above sea level and represent hundreds of miles of navigable waters surrounded by a good grazing country, rich in minerals and good timber, while all the hardy vegetables grow well. A large fish of symmetrical lines is found here that rises readily to a troll and has every appearance of the landlocked salmon. It is of salmon color, but turns white as soon as placed on the fire and is almost tasteless when cooked. Tagish lake is connected with Lake Marsh b}* a wide reach of river with a sluggish current. The banks are bordered by ter- raced and open wooded slopes and the valley is broad, especially to the west. The timber here is mostly Cottonwood and white spruce. This piece of river is five miles long and in some places very shallow, like the lower end of Tagish lake. The water in this lake is clear and covers the hard, gravelly bottom to a depth of four or five feet for nearly its entire lower end, which is three miles wide and five miles long. TAGISH HOUSE. On this piece of river is located the famous Tagish house, where councils of war and the yearly festivals are held. These build- ings are the only permanent buildings seen in all the country above Pelly river. It was here war was declared years ago on the Coast Indians, which resulted so disastrously to the Sticks. The.se houses are kept up by annual renovation. Here also is one of their burying grounds and crematories. GUIDR TO THE YUKON 25 LAKE MARvSH. Lake Marsh is tvvent}- miles in length, with an average width of more than two miles. It occupies a notably broad valley, while to the east a high and well defined range of mountains stands out prominently. To the west the country is rolling, except in the vicinity of the lake, which is bordered by meadows. Many wild fowl w^ere seen here. Away to the west a broken range of moun- tains reaches a greater height than those to the east. Here we saw the first snow since the high peaks about Bennett disappeared from view. At the lower end of the lake a large island stands just above the outlet and the McClintock river enters here, draining a broad valley to the east. This river cannot be of any considerable size as the Hootalinqua is at no great distance. Here huge piles of driftwood, the first of any great size, are encountered. The formations here are of volcanic materials, while some have a decided sandstone appearance, and farther up the lake are clearly defined exposures of a slaty formation, cut by many quartz veins. The river from here to the canyon has about a three mile current, and occupies a valley of some extent. The banks are low and even marshy in many places, bordered with much good timber, with sloughs filled with duck and muskrat, not to mention the swarms of mosquitoes. CUT BANKS AND MARTINS' NESTS. A few miles further we come to the first high cut banks which become so general farther down. These are completely honey-combed by martin, that come all this great distance to rear their young. Mile after mile of these banks, furnishing homes for millions of these playful little birds, is passed. SALMON. This stretch of the river is the limit of the salmon's travels, few ever reaching Lake Marsh. The mighty waters of the canyon sap the remaining strength after their long journey and it seems strange how this beautiful fish must labor for months 26 GUIDE TO THE YUKON against the current, only to die after depositing their spawn. The sahnon here are the finest in the world and will average forty pounds each. They run in pairs, the male keeping close to the female, and when the spawn has become ripe enough to be squeezed out by some friendly rock, he is always on hand to cover the whole with a milky substance essential to insure the arrival of the hundreds of little lives which find their way to the mother sea only to return as did their progenitors and furnish food for bruin, tor after spawning they soon die. The bear all come down from their homes in the mountains to dine and fatten on this fish, a part of the head being their favorite morsel. In the month of August dozens of bear can be seen any day along the river. Many smooth and grassy hills border the river, and a few miles above the canyon Silver creek enters among a confusion of dome- like, sandy hills. The current becomes stronger and the roar of many riffies keeps the canyon constantly in mind. This will be known, however, by a friendly sign on the right hand side reading: "Danger, Stop." The right side should be followed closely here and as soon as the sign is passed a friendl}' eddy can be easily made just at the entrance of the grand canyon. GRAND CANYON AND WHITE HORSE RAPIDS. On the right and at the entrance to the canyon there is a good skidway used by the miners for transporting their boats. The canyon proper is five-eighths of a mile long, but the distance to portage is nearer one mile, while that run by the boats is three fourths of a mile. The canyon is cut through a horizontal basalt bed and the walls range in height from fifty to one hundred and twenty feet, and are worn into all kinds of fantastic shapes. The canyon has an average width of about one hundred feet and the force of the water of this might)^ river, crowded and piled up in this small space, can hardly be realized. The river above has an average width of 250 yards and the water of the canyon must necessarily be deep. I heard of a huge rock just within its en- trance, but cotild see no signs of it either from the walls or from the boat as I passed through. I believe there is little danger in shooting this canyon with a good boat, unless the steersman should lose his head. The water is crowded up to a crest in the center GUIDK TO THE YUKON 27 fully four feet higher thau at the walls, aud little difficulty will be found in keeping the boat on this crest if it is kept under control. But once over the crest there is danger of striknig the wall, and little would be left of boat or cargo in this case. My boat made the distance of three-quarters of a mile in two minutes and twenty seconds, and the experience is surely an exciting one and not to be forgotten. My boat was strongly built of five-eighth boards, twenty-two feet long and well braced with one and three-quarter inch timbers nailed and clinched with wire nails. It carried about nine hun- dred pounds of outfit besides ourselves. We removed the camera, plates, a bag of cooked provisions and our guns, stored the rest close and lashed everything tight, covering all with a tarpaulin, thus preventing its filling as it stuck its nose through the crest of the heavy combers. When we emerged from the dark walls and entered the eddy on the right at the foot, our boat was leaking badly and nearly every nail was started; this was caused mostly from being overloaded, which necessarily made the strain greater. Perhaps an attempted description of this short journey will not be out of place, and while it may satisfy those who never make it, its feebleness will be apparent to those fortunate enough to ex- perience the satisfaction of gazing on this hell of seething waters after successfully shooting through the dark abyss. We arranged everything satisfactorily in the boat, tried the steer- ing sweep's strength, discarded all possible clothing even to our heavy boots, took our respective places and pulled far out into the eddy. My partner strained every muscle at the oars to give steer- age way that we might enter straight. The ever increasing cur- rent caught us and our boat seemed fairly to shoot into the dark shadows of those grotesque and weird walls until it was caught by the recoil of the first great breaker; here it almost stopped and fairly trembled as if in fear to proceed, but only for a moment, then dashed on to its crest and with one mighty bound tried to make the next high place, but it was too heavily loaded and fell far short, shooting through instead, drenching us most thoroughly. As it raised up the water poured off of the canvas cover and we were rushing on to the next with clouds of spray dashing in blind- ing sheets against our faces. In the first stretch this was repeated several times until we reached the basin about halfway through, which forms an eddy and is comparatively smooth. Here we 28 GUIDB: to the YUKON began to breathe again, having held our breath for just one minute and eight seconds, and prepared for the second and home stretch. This proved to be the Avorst, as at the last pitch the canyon makes a turn and the force of the water as it strikes the wall and turns back is irresistible; but it is all over so quickl}' there is no time to turn pale or even to remember just how things were managed. I had my camera on the walls overlooking the canyon and focused it on a high comber, and Mr. Bramer was kind enough to work the pneumatic shutter, giving instantaneous exposure. The contrast between those foaming waters and the dark walls of the canj'on rendered it a hard object to photograph, but the re- sult can be seen on the opposite page, which will convey some idea of the canyon as seen from the walls above. The distance of three-fourths of a mile was made in two min- utes and twenty seconds, which is the gait of a good trotting horse on a smooth track. Imagine a boat loaded with two men and nine hundred pounds dashing alongside of a light pneumatic sulky drawn by a good trotting horse, and some idea of the trip will be had. WHITE HORSE RAPIDS. The White Horse rapids are about two miles below the canyon, and being filled with rapids and sunken boulders this part of the trip .should be well looked out before starting. There is one short place where most of the miners portage. The skidway is on the east side and not more than one hundred yards long. By keep- ing the west bank, little trouble will be found running the whole distance to the head of White Horse, if the boat is under complete control. But if it is unweildy the portage is preferable. Just before reaching the White Horse there is a comparatively smooth stretch of river, giving an opportunity to land on the long point just above the great bend. The boat can be dropped from here down to the eddy, where everything will have to be portaged. The portage here is on the we.st side. The river is confined between low basalt walls, and the last pitch is .scarcely ninet> feet wide. Here the water presents a formidable spectacle, and is seldom run, yet the best boat with good boatmen will, I believe, come through all right. The boats GUIDE TO THE YUKON 29 can be lowered by long ropes down to the last pitch, where a short portage of a hundred feet will be made. From the entrance of the canyon to the foot of White Horse rapids is about three miles, which can never be made navigable for river steamers. PROPOSED TRAMWAY • ROUTE. There is to the east a long lev^el valley which runs to the head of White Horse rapids, where a tramway could be easily built and operated; while from the head to the foot of the White Horse a slightl}^ elevated shelf forms a natural roadbed. This occupies the even flow of the volcanic bed, and only where the river makes the turn at the head would any work be necessary for the entire length. Power for such a tramway could easily be procured from the falls. The lake boats could connect with this above the canyon, while the river boats could run up to its lower terminus. Here the country shows great evidence of the glacial period, and the low grassy-terraced hills of the east would furnish fine grazing, while to the west they are more abrupt, and further away are fine forests of spruce and pine. Many boats were lost in these three miles of river last spring; some were turned loose and went to pieces on the rocks, while others were swamped in lowering. An interesting story was told me of two Swedes who came down the river last spring and were carried into the canyon by accident. There were many miners at the portage at the time, and no sooner did the boat strike the rough water than the Swedes threw up their hands and crouched in the bottom of their boat. It was a good one and rode the waters well until the edd}' was reached, when, having no guiding hand, it shot into the eddy instead of passing on down the lower stretch. The current of this eddy is very strong and the walls are about 150 feet high. With all their efforts they could not induce the boat to leave the circle, and the}^ soon gave up the task and lay down in the boat perfectly resigned to their fate. They were entirely out of reach of any assistance from the banks, and after about six hours of this circling the boat left the eddy by one of those unaccountable freaks of such places, and they were soon safely landed below. 30 GUIDE TO THE YUKON TAHKEENA RIVER. This river is a good sized stream. The current is not so swift as that of the Lewis river, which joins about fifteen miles below the White Horse rapids. It is probably little more than half as large as the Lewis river and is bordered by high hills, which to the westward reach the d'ignity of mountains, apparently of granite. The Tahkeena is said to drain a large lake to the west some seventy miles, and is the inland waterway used in connection with the Chilkat pass, which is made accessible by the west arm of Lynn canal. This pass, while low, is long and less used than formerly by the Indians, and never by the miners. This river has no rapids of any note, making it easy to ascend. LAKE LABARGE. Lake Labarge is about twelve miles below the Tahkeena river. These twelve miles of river, the most of the distance, run through a large valley, much of which is flat and low, scarcely higher than the lake to the east, terminating in the Sandstone range bordering the lake. The river has cut many channels through the bank of sand and clay, and some of these save miles by cutting across. Lake Labarge is about thirty-one miles long, with an average breadth of five miles, and in some places it is much wider. This lake gets very rough and is one of the windiest of the whole system. The formations about this lake are very marked and sin- gular—mostly of limestone to the east — and rise abruptly from the water in some places, while beyond these still higher mountains rise which separate the Hootalinqua from the waters running into the Lewis. There are many beautiful little lakes in these mount- ains some five or six hundred feet above the surface of Lake La- barge, which has an elevation of 2,100 feet. To the west the hills are wooded more or less. At the southwest end a small stream enters through a broad, level valley, while another enters from the west, near its northern end. The outlet here turns to the east and cuts through the hills instead of following the broad, low valley which we had supposed it would follow. The lake lies nearly north and south and seems to be very deep, especially along its eastern .shore. After leaving this, the last of the lakes, the current of the river soon increases to five and six miles per hour. GUIDE TO THE YUKON 31 The river has cut its way among the jumble of hills, leaving it very crooked, many times nearly doubling on itself. The bed is filled with boulders and would probably need some work to make it safe for river steamers. While boats could undoubtedly ascend it would be impossible to descend with any degree of safety while forced along by the strong current. The hills come down to the water's edge and in some places are well timbered. The cut clay banks are common from here on to the Pelly river. HO0TAI.INQUA RIVER. About twenty-eight miles from Lake Labarge the Hootalinqua river enters from the east and at its confluence with the Lewis seems quite as large. The current is much milder and therefore carries a smaller quantity of water. While this river is known to the miners as the Hootalinqua, Dawson calls it after its Indian name, "Teslintoo," Schvvatka called it "Newberry," and the original coast survey "Wasathan." This custom of name- changing has been carried on to such an extent that it becomes conflicting, and as the miners are the men who open up the coun- try they are the authority that should be followed. This river has never been explored to any great extent, but it is certain that it is fed by an enormous lake known as Teslin, and this in turn by many rivers of considerable size. This is undoubtedly a fact, as it drains a dry country lying beyond the snow and ice of the Coast range and its volume of water would indicate the extent of the country to be considerable. Much flour gold has been found along this river on all the bars, and only the lack of supplies pre- vents rich discoveries. This will undoubtedly be overcome in the near future, as Captain Healey told me he would establish a trading post there this coming season. The bars for miles below the Hootalinqua have furnished much gold, that of the Cassiar being far the richest. The river has a good five-mile current and is bordered by hills of considerable height. BIG SALMON RIVER. Thirty-one miles from the Hootalinqua the Big Salmon enters from the same side and is a large river. Little definite informa- tion could be obtained concerning this river, except that its bars 32 GUIDE TO THE YUKON carr}' some gold and that its source lies about two hundred miles to the south and east, and like all other rivers of the country flows from a number of lakes. It has been little prospected, but all who have prospected it report gold everywhere. This river, as its name would indicate, is a great salmon stream and manj'^ In- dians spend the summer months here preparing their winter salmon. The current is mild compared with the Lewis, and the water much clearer, as are all the waters flowing from the east, while those from the west show signs of glacial action and vol- canic deposits. Below the Big Salmon the hills are high and rounded, many wooded to the summits. Some bars have been worked here. LITTLE SALMON RIVER. .Thirty-five miles farther down, the Little Salmon river enters from the east from among high hills and does not show much val- ley. This river has never been prospected to any extent and little could be learned of it except as a fishing stream used by the In- dians. The river makes many long bends in this distance, fairly doubling on itself. From Little Salmon river to Five Finger rap- ids the distance by river is fifty-three miles while in a straight line it would scarcely exceed one-half of that distance. The course of the river is very irregular with scarcely any valley. George McCormack has a small trading post about fifteen miles above Five Fingers, and five and one- half miles farther up he is opening up a vein of coal which shows well a few feet from the surface. It is of a lignite character and burns well. The banks where cut by the river are of clay, gravel and vol- canic matter. Th'-.y are very high and are constant!}' sliding into the river. The current from here to the Five Fingers is about five miles per hour. The country is generally well wooded, birch being abundant. FIVE FINGERS. This rapid is short, but the drop caused by the five columns of rock, which partly obstruct the river's course, is considerable and would prove an obstruction to river steamers, although it would be pos.sible at a reasonable cost to blast out one of these columns. GUIDE TO THE YUKON 33 This could be done in the winter with little difficulty, and would widen the channel enough to lessen the fall. Little trouble will be experienced in running this rapid with a good boat, although several accidents have occurred here. The channel to the right is the one usually run. The illustration was taken from the high bank some distance below, from the west side. The country here is generally wooded, with terraced, open, grassy slopes on the southern hillsides. RINK RAPIDS. These rapids are some six miles below Five Fingers and are formed b}- a bar of rocks reaching nearly across the river. This, on the west side is quite as bad as the Five Fingers, but on the east there is scarcely a ripple, and a small river steamer would have no difficulty in following this shore. In running here, by keeping close to the east shore, it will not be necessary to stop at all. The valley now becomes wider, while the hills are less de- lined. The river rapidly widens also, and islands are numerous. The current runs about live miles an hour, while farther down it increases to fully six miles. About thirty mJles below some sin- gular formations occur; one particular mound-shaped butte rises out of a flat, while others come down to the river's edge. Some croppings of quartz are seen in these bluffs. Farther down, the river becomes wider and so filled with islands that it is hard to tell where the shores are, until the high hills on the west are reached. These come down to the water very abrupt, and the current is increased. OLD FORT SELKIRK. Old Fort Selkirk is fifty-five miles from Five Fingers and just below the confluence of the Pelly and Lewis rivers. Here Harper has a trading post, and Captain Healey's company winter their boat, the P. B. Weare. On the east side there is a high basalt plateau, .said to have come from a large v^olcano some thirty miles up Pelly river. It has an abrupt front and has crowded the river some distance to the west, which it follows some six or eight miles, where it ter- minates in hills of sand and limestone. 34 GUIDE TO THE YUKON Just below the confluence of the Pelly and Lewis rivers is the point at which old Fort Selkirk stood before it was pillaged and burned, August i, 1852, b}^ the coast Indians, Only the ruins of the chimneys can now be found. Fine gardens belonging to the mission and post were seen here. A good grazing country of con- siderable extent surrounds this site. The river from here on for some distance has a uniform width, with abrupt hills coming quite down to the water's edge. Farther on, the river widens to fully one mile, and contains many islands, all well timbered. The form- ation is mostl}- limestone with some granite, slate and croppings of quartz everywhere. WHITE RIVER. Ninety-six miles from Fort Selkirk the White river enters from the west. It is, beyond all doubt, the most wonderful of all this great system of rivers. It is a large stream and carries a vast vol- ume of water, having an eight to a ten-mile current. The water is extremely muddy, due to a white, glassy substance which com- pletely colors the entire Yukon until it is but little clearer than the White river itself. The White discharges its waters into the Yukon with such a force that the roar can be heard for some dis- tance, and this muddy tributary is projected nearlj^ across the swift current of the main river. White river drains a high, mountainous country away to the west, according to the statement of a Tanana Indian, who has traveled the country extensively, and who, with eight others, came from Tanana. They came down White river, to the point on the Yukon where we met them, in a skin canoe built for the purpose. They also informed us that many high mountains and a large lake many days' travel to the west laj^ near the source of the White, and that one of the mount- ains was many times higher than the others and was often seen emitting fire and smoke and was known to the Indians as Thunder mountain. I asked them if the mountain was covered with clouds most of the time. They told me that sometimes in summer it could not be seen, and that in winter it was never visible. This would prove that it was not of the Coast range, if such a mountain does really exist. GUIDE TO THE YUKON 35 VOLCANIC AvSH DEPOSITS. The White river must come from a glacial region, and probabl}^ flows over volcanic deposits, as its sediment is similar to ashes and is noticed all along the river below the lakes. This volcanic ash appears to have been deposited like snow, and is said to cover a vast extent of territory. Dr. Dawson reports finding it all along the Pelh' river, but found it of a much greater thickness on the Lewis river at a point directly west of the deposits on the Felly, thus proving that the seat of action was to the west. That the deposit is of recent date there can be little doubt, as it overla5^s driftwood in some of the cut banks of the Lewis and is covered with very little soil. However, all the timber has grown since its fall, as I noticed trees of the largest size growing on drift deposits which overlaid it several feet. Dawson says this ash deposit prob- ably covers 25,000 square miles, and he is undoubtedly the best authority on such matters of any one who has visited that region. His report to the Canadian government shows him to be the clos- est observer of everything. I do not believe the eruption which deposited this ash took place in the Coast range. I can find no record of its being noticed on the coast or by any of the explorers who visited the vicinit}' of this range of mountains in this dis- trict, or in the Copper river district, bej^ond the Coast range, where it should be more evident. This, and the reported burning mountain of the interior, the muddy waters of the White river, the exceedingly muddy condition of all these waters, the fact that the deposit at the time of action was doubtless of a very light character, and that the prevailing west winds would prevent its fall- ing to any extent to the west, all these facts go to prove that the action took place near the head waters of the White river, and the possible existence of an active volcano there at the present time. The Yukon rapidly widens below the White river to fully one mile and contains many islands, all well timbered. The valley also widens with the river. STEWART RIVER. Ten miles below the White river the Stewart river enters from the east and helps swell the already mighty Yukon. The Stewart has a mild current, with deep, darkish waters. It is bordered by 36 GUIDE TO THE YUKON rolling hills, which in turn are backed by high hills, rising to the dignity of mountains in many places. The bars of the river have furnished lucrative diggings for years to many miners, and many hundred miles of tributaries and gulches yet remain to be pros- pected. It is probably navigable for small river steamers for many miles and is said to drain some large lakes away to the southeast. It is undoubtedly three hundred miles in length, not counting its many tributaries. Just below the mouth, on the west, are some abrupt hills, apparently of limestone. SIXTY-MILE CREEK. Seventy miles below the mouth of vStewart river Sixty-Mile creek enters from the west. Harper and Ladue have a trading post and a sawmill here on an island. About one hundred miners annually winter here. Sixty-Mile creek has a swift current and is filled with rapids, making it very difficult to ascend. Miller creek enters Sixty-Mile creek about seventy miles from its mouth. Little traveling to Miller creek is done by the way of water, for it is much easier to ascend Sixty-Mile creek and portage over the Bald hills to the head of Miller. Below Sixty-Mile creek the Yukon holds its usual current and contains many islands. The valley is not so broad, however, the hills being abrupt and of various formations, abundant croppings of quartz being seen everywhere. INDIAN CREEK AND KLONDYKE RIYER. Thirty miles below Sixty-Mile creek, Indian creek enters the Yukon. Here discoveries were made last season that were re- ported very rich. The stream is rapid, with very little water, and some of the miners have ascended it a distance of one hundred miles. Fifty miles from Sixty Mile creek the Klondyke river en- ters from the east, and just here the great copper belt crosses the Yukon. The Indians have a fishing camp at this point, the Klondyke being a noted stream for salmon. Its waters are very clear and shallow, being one continual succession of riffles. It has its .source in a high range of snow-capped mountains, probably a spur of the Rocky mountains. This section of the country abounds GUIDE TO THE YUKON 37 in game. A great many bear come down from the mountains in summer to feed on the numerous sahnon that crowd up this stream and become easy prey to bruin, owing to the shallow water. Among these bear is a species of grizzly that is very bold and ferocious, so much so, that the Indians have a deadly fear of hunting up this creek in the salmon season. Six miles below are the ruins of old Fort Reliance. Many curious formations of lime and sandstone, which have been worn into fantasti-c shapes, occur. Quartz croppings are seen all along, while granite, schist, meta- morphic and crystalline rock similar to those of the Rocky moun- tains are not uncommon. Twelve miles below Fort Reliance, coming from the east, is a small, rapid creek, which, as far as I know, has no name. It drains a large and inviting valley, while high snow-capped moun- tains can be seen in the distance. This creek seems never to have been prospected and is surely a promising looking spot. From here to Forty Mile creek, the current is normal and the river more confined by high banks and consequently has fewer islands. FORTY MILE CREEK. Forty Mile creek received its name from entering the Yukon about forty miles from old Fort Reliance. For years its bars have yielded large returns for the labor expended, but these diggings have been abandoned for some time for the gulches that furnish coarse gold and which have become famed all over the country. Forty Mile creek is about two hundred and fifty miles long and has many tributaries, all of which carry gold in paying quantities. It enters the Yukon from the west and drains that country lying between the Yukon and Tanana rivers. This country is nearl}^ covered with glacial drift to the depth of many feet. It is all of peculiar formation, there being no defined range of mountains, but a jumble of bald hills, the glacial drip of which feeds hun- dreds of tributaries to the larger creeks. The formation of this country will be found marked upon the maps as they occur. These maps cover all of Forty Mile creek and its branches and that part of Sixty Mile creek and its gulches which is being worked to any extent, both the summer and winter trials being marked by dotted lines. The summer trail leads up Forty Mile 38 GUIDE TO THE YUKON creek bj^ boat to Moose creek, a distance of twenty-seven miles, then by trail over Bald hills to the head of Miller creek, a dis- tance of thirty-four miles. Poker, Davis, Glacier and Little Gold creeks all lie within a few miles of Miller creek. MILLER CREEK. Miller creek thus far has proved to have the richest diggings, various estimates placing the sum taken out last season as high as $300,000. In one claim alone $35,000 were taken out and the place worked was only thirty by one hundred feet, one clean-up being made of i, 100 ounces. This creek is not more than six miles long with about fifty-four claims, and many of the lower claims are not opened up to any extent as yet. A claim here consists of five hundred feet of the creek and maj^ reach up both sides of the gulch an indefinite dis- tance. The discoverer is allowed two claims or one thousand feet. Miller creek was prospected and given up three times before it was thought profitable to work, thus showing how difficult pros- pecting becomes here, owing to the vast quantities of glacial drift everwhere. Miller creek furnishes work for about 125 men, the prevailing pay being ten dollars a day. Provisions and necessities are correspondingly high; potatoes and onions sold for $1 a pound; flour, $19.50 per sack of fifty pound; gum boots $18 per pair; butter, $1.50 per pound; whiskey, $1 per glass and other things in proportion. This applies to all mining creeks lying near Miller creek, namely, Davis creek, Pike's gulch. Little Gold creek and Glacier creek. These prices are brought about by the enormous cost of packing from Forty Mile Post to the mines on these creeks. FREIGHTING. This is done from Forty Mile Post up to the mouth of Moose creek by freighters of from six to eight tons burden, poled by In- dians, and thence over the hills to Miller creek, thirty-four miles farther. Supplies are carried by miners and Indians and even sleigh dogs are used, a good dog carrying as high as fifty pounds. The total distance from Forty Mile Post to the head of Miller GUIDE TO THE YUKON 39 creek is about sixty-one miles, and the cost of freighting in sum- mer is $30 per hundred pounds. Two small horses were used here with good results in the summer of '94. The round trip from the mouth of Moose creek to Miller, a distance of thirty-four miles, can be made in three days with a load of 200 pounds. This distance is lessened some by the winter trail. All freighting in winter is done by sleighs with dogs at a cost of $10 to $13 per hundred pounds. They haul much larger loads than one would suppose and make long distances over the ice and snow. Their food consists entirely of dried salmon and they lie down at night in the snow to rest and sleep after their long, hard day's work, often with the thermometer down to sixty degrees below zero. GLACIER CREEK. This creek lies east of Miller creek, three miles distant, running nearly parallel with it, and being separated only by a high range of hills. It has been prospected several times but was not located till last season. Some preliminary work had been done towards opening it up. Such claims as were prospected to any. great ex- tent promise fair to be equally as rich as those on Miller creek. The excitement occurred in August and was started by some prospectors who discovered rich finds in the old dumps of previ- ous prospectors. Within six hours the whole creek was staked out, the locators being mostly the hired miners of Miller creek. PROSPECTING AND MINING. Prospecting in this country is very difficult owing to the char- acter of the surface, the general formation being soft, the hills having been worn smooth by glacial action which left a layer of drift over the whole country to a depth of from five to fifteen feet. This is frozen the whole year with the exception of a few inches on the surface. The method of prospecting is usually carried on by sinking a number of holes to bed-rock across the bed of the creek, or cross- cutting it by a tunnel and testing the dirt every few feet by panning, thus locating the pay-streak. After a creek has been prospected and located then it becomes necessary to remove the 40 GUIDE TO THE YUKON glacial drift. The trees and roots are removed and a stream of water turned on which with the help of the sun in time bares the paj^-streak. The course of the water is then turned along the side of the hill, a dam built and sluice-boxes erected. These are made with corrugated bottoms which catch and retain the gold. They are given a grade regulated by the coarseness of the gold; that is, if the gold is of an exceedingly fine qualitj', the grade will be slight, but if of a coarser character, a greater pitch can be given, which is always preferable, as the swiftness of the water enables a greater quantity of dirt to be handled. The lack of water in these gulches proves a great hindrance in many cases. The seasons are dry and only the glacial drip of the hills can be depended upon. A method lately adopted on these creeks by which mining can be done in winter has proved profitable besides doing away with the long period of idleness. This is called burnmg, and is done by drifting, melting away the frost by fire and taking out only the pay dirt, leaving the glacial drift and .surface intact. The pay dirt thus removed is easily washed in the spring when water is plenty. BED-ROCK CREEK. This creek is about three miles distant from Miller creek to the west and runs nearl}^ parallel with it. Although it has been pro.s- pected to some extent, and some claims have been located, it has not proved very satisfactory; yet it may contain gold in paying quantities. The creek, as its name indicates, is not overlaid with the usual amount of glacial drift and therefore would be much more easily worked. It is much better timbered than the sur- rounding creeks and carries a greater volume of water, being fed by numerous springs among which are several fine soda and other mineral springs. This creek seems to differ in many respects from any of the others and the geologist might find many sur- prises in its exceedingl}' interesting and wonderful formation. . BALD HILLS. From the summit of the Bald hills at the head of these creeks is one of the grandest scenes on this continent. Scores of spark- GUIDE TO THE YUKON 41 ling streams, like threads of silver, stretch away toward every point of the compass. To the west high mountains tint the horizon with blue; while to the north and east, beyond the mighty Yukon, a spur of the Rocky mountains can be traced for more than a hundred miles, its snow-capped peaks piercing the clouds. To the northwest the high cut banks of Forty Mile creek can be seen, while beyond, the old standard land mark, whose dome can never be mistaken, no matter from what point of view it is seen, looms up grandly. FORTY MILE POST. Forty Mile Post is situated on the point of land formed by Forty Mile creek and the Yukon. This point at times of high water is converted into an island, some portions of which are occasionally submerged. Beyond this and bordering the hills is a fine table land, extensive enough to make a fine townsite. The officers of the Canadian government have made sufficient reserves here for custom buildings and police headquarters. This tract, I believe, is under the immediate direction of Captain C. Constan- tine. The town at present consists of ten saloons, McQuestion & Co's store, twoJblacksmith shops, two restaurants, three billiard halls, two dance houses, opera house, cigar factory, barber shop, two bakeries and several breweries and distilleries. The town has a recorder and the sum of five dollars is charged for the filing and staking of lots. In order to hold a lot the owner must erect a building within a certain time; if it is to be a cabin, it must be built within six months after location. The buildings are all made of logs chinked with moss; the roofs are of poles covered with a layer of moss with a foot of dirt over all. Living is reasonable, two dollars a day being charged for board bj- the two restaurants while cabins can be rented for from thirty to thirtv-five dollars for the winter season. 42 GUIDE TO THE YUKON DOGS. One of the first things to attract attention here, as well as throughout the entire Yukon basin, is the great number of dogs. They are closely related to the wolf, and if they are not natural born thieves they are nothing. They usually celebrate the arri- val of all new comers by a general fight. They will steal any- thing from a pair of boots to a side of bacon; one actually stole a paste pot from me while I was at work on some pictures. The}^ manifest a great degree of cunning in their attempts at stealing. Snowshoes, dog harness and the like, as well as all kinds of un- canned meats have to be cached. This is done by erecting a strong house upon posts, twelve or fifteen feet above ground, for the safe keeping of all such articles. As previously stated, these dogs are used in freighting to the mines in winter. An addi- tional charge of two cents a pound is made on bacon and all un- canned meats on account of the extra trouble to keep that class GUIDE TO THE YUKON 43 of goods from the dogs. The howling of wolves would be pleas- ant music compared with the howling of these dogs at night. Under the least provocation, in the calm of night, one \K\\\ start in and almost simultaneously every dog within five miles will join in a general uproar. They often continue their howlings for hours. In spite of all these inconveniences, the dog is to the in- habitants of the Yukon what the reindeer is to the "Laplander, the horse to the inhabitants of the plains. In winter they are hitched to a sleigh and in summer loaded with packs. When the day comes for them to be replaced by the reindeer that roam Bald hills in bands of thovisands, all will rejoice, for the dogs are always partially loaded with their own food, and in cases of dis- tress furnish poor food even for a famished miner. The flesh of the reindeer is a delicacy, and they are able to subsist in all parts of the countr}'. FORT CUDAHY. Just below where Forty Mile creek unites with the Yukon, on a beautiful wooded shelf, high above the river, protected from the north and west winds by high hills, rests Fort Cudahy. This town was founded by Captain Healey and is the headquarters of the North American Transportation and Trading Company, bet- ter known here as Captain Healey's Company. While this com- pany is a new comer, having been there only three years, yet in that time the opposition started by it has reduced the price of living about one-half. This is of the greatest importance to the development of the country, and makes it possible to work dig- gings that were previously abandoned. They have erected large warehouses, a sawmill, free reading room, billiard hall and many fine cabins. Their boat, the P. B. Weave, is a modern river boat, and is able to carry a cargo of 350 tons. COAL CREEK. The river below Forty Mile creek is bordered on both sides by abrupt hills with no valleys whatever, the islands becoming less numerous. Coal creek enters from the east about seven miles be- low the mouth of Forty Mile creek. It is quite rapid, and navi- 44 GUIDE TO THE YUKON gable for a few miles only. The formation is limestone, with frequent croppings of coal. Extensive leads of coal are reported to exist 'some distance from the river. The coal of this country, as far as known, is lignite in character, and seems of recent form- ation. In fact, many parts of the country appear to be under- going the later processes of the carboniferous period. Coal creek cuts its way back to a high range of mountains, evidently a spur of the Rocky mountains. The river does not cut this range, but flows around what appears to be the terminus. The country south and east of the range is well timbered, but nothing further is known of it. From the mouth of Coal creek on to the Yukon flats the characteristics of the river remain about the same. The current is strong, the hills abrupt and the formation sand and limestone, with conglomerates and shales. Crystalline gneiss and granite veins are not uncommon. CIRCLE CITY. About 170 miles from Forty Mile creek, on the west bank, an elevated table-land borders the river. This is just within the Yukon flats. Here the new camp of Circle City was founded in the fall of 1894. It is the distributing point for the vast region of Birch creek, and will undoubtedly become the metropolis of the Yukon, not only on account of the extensive auriferous deposits known to exist there, but principally because it is on American soil. More than one hundred men have prospected the creek and the bars adjacent to Birch creek, and all agree that it bids fair to rival the now famous Forty Mile creek. On the opposite page is a view taken of the first supplies landed at that point, September 5, 1894. Two buildings for stores were soon under construction, and it is probable that 300 men passed the present winter there. The town is laid off" into streets, Main street facing the river. It has a recorder,- who charges a fee of two dollars and fifty cents for re- cording locations of lots. A building clause has to be carried out in order to hold the lots. A portage of six miles westward from Circle City strikes Birch creek 200 miles from its mouth, from which point the river is fol- lowed by boat to Crooked river, thence up to the mines on Inde- pendence, Mastodon and other creeks. A shorter way is by port- GUIDE TO THE YUKON age across the flats and over a range of high hills to the heads of the mining creeks. The distance by trail, as shown on the map b}' the dotted lines, is about fifty-two miles. BIRCH CREEK. Birch creek was prospected some in 1S93, enough to show that the country contained some gold, the first being discovered on Malamute creek of the north fork. Eater gold was found on other creeks by a half-breed Indian. McCarthy bar, on the main creek, also proved quite rich. Some miners followed the creek for 350 miles and reported the main creek to be filled with rapids and can- yons for that distance. Much of the creek cuts the Yukon flats and other low sections of the country, which would necessarily give it a milder current than most of the streams running into the Yukon. The south fork runs southwest and drains that country lying near the head of Seventy-Mile creek. The north fork drains much country in and adjacent to the Ratzel mountains. In the season of 1894 nearly one hundred men prospected this country, and as many claims were staked off" on Mastodon, Inde- pendence and other creeks. Bedrock here is much nearer the sur- face than in the Forty-Mile district, and the above named creeks have a better grade; therefore many claims were well opened up, and some even yielded good returns. Eater many men went there from the Forty-Mile mines. This year will find many prospectors in this locality, and undoubtedly very rich and extensive creeks will be located. Circle City, the distributing point for these mines, has a much better site than Forty- Mile Post, and being nearer the mouth of the river, receives supplies first. The greatest draw- back to the development of these mines wnll be the lack of sup- plies. The miners depend on the snow and ice for freighting their summer supplies to the mines. As there is scarcely supplies enough in the country to carry the number wintering there through, it will be impossible to obtain any to freight to the mines, nor can prospectors obtain supplies for a summer's pros- pecting trip until the first boats arrive, which will be well into the summer, too late to start on an extensive trip. This will occur again next year, unless the company more than doubles the amount of supplies for that year, as in all probability more than double the number of men will winter there. 4(3 GUIDE TO THE YUKON PREACHER CREEK. Preacher creek enters Birch some sixt}^ miles below the portage and is about one hundred and twenty-five miles in length. It has been prospected very little, but its head waters are said to cut a country of ver}- peculiar formation. Two men who prospected there last year found little gold, but much else of interest. They expect to make a second trip the coming year. The creek was named after a preacher who made an exploration trip of some length in search of fossils. It is reported he found high clay banks some seventy miles from its mouth. These banks were about three hundred feet high and overlaid a layer of drift- wood some two hundred feet down. Much of this driftwood was well preserved and of much larger dimensions than any growth in the country at present, some of the trees being fully four feet in diameter. The creek is constantly undermining its banks, thus bringing down great slides of clay and wood, which completely fill the creek at times. This goes to prove beyond a doubt that the great Yukon flats were at one time a vast lake, much larger than anv fresh water lake existing to-dav. YUKON FEATS. The Yukon flats are traversed by the river from Circle Cit}^ to the Lower Ramparts, a distance of four hundred miles. Their width equals their length. This tract includes the mouth of the Porcupine, Birch and several smaller creeks. At the point the river leaves these flats it cuts its way through a low range of mountains called the Rampart mountains. It then turns to the west and follows the range some three hundred miles farther. This range of mountains was undoubtedly the barrier that formed the great lake of the past. This lake must have been larger than Great Slave lake and quite as deep. There must have been a fall mightier than Niagara at its outlet before the great barrier was worn or broken away. All this time the mighty Yukon and the Porcupine were depositing the wash from hundreds of streams and mountains, forming the flats of to-day. Now this silt is car- ried down the river and deposited at its mouth forming the delta of the Yukon. Some idea of the enormous amount of sediment - n^vfA" GUIDE TO THE YUKON 47 annually deposited may be had by notino: what takes place along the banks of the main river and numerous tributaries, upon the breaking up of the ice in the spring. Often cakes of solid ice eight feet thick and acres in area come tearing down the river, cutting and plowing the banks until they become so undermined that they scarcely sustain their own weight. Large fields of ice follow, borne madly along by the irresistible current, and strike the overhanging mass of earth. With a roar like an avalanche the high bank gives away and is precipitated upon the field of ice be- low, nearly sinking it. Slowly rising, it throws off most of its weight of rocks, gravel and earth. The rocks and gravel sink but the finer particles are kept moving along by this rapid cur- rent. A pail of this water allowed to stand over night will con- tain a half-inch of sediment in the morning. The same current bears these ice-floes onward to be deposited upon some .'^and bar near the river's mouth, or to be carried far out into Behring sea. Nearh' ever}^ cake gathers a load on its long journey down, some carrying rocks, others trees, sand or clay, all helping to transform and build up in a manner unsurpassed by any other river in the v.'orld. Only such rivers as rise in the south and flow northward; carry such fields of ice in the breaking up; the Yukon's only northern competitors are the Mackenzie and Lena of Siberia. FOSSILS. After the waters of this great lake subsided, it became the home of the mastodon w-hich it is believed roamed this vast northern waste in countless numbers and of a size beyond any living thing of the present age. Tusks of fossil ivory are numerous through- out these northern regions besides bones and teeth of a marvelous size. An island known as Mammoth island seems to have been a burying place for one of the.se herds, remains being piled up in great profusion. The habitat of these animals seemed to range to the westward into the Copper river district and remains are found throughout the Birch creek district and even in the Ratzel mountains. Nearly the whole basin furnishes some fo.ssils, but the flats and country adjacent contain the greatest abundance. Many believe the unexplored country toward the head of Copper river contains living specimens. Many tales are told by Indians 48 GUIDE TO THE YUKON from that region of huge woolly beasts with horns like the trunk of the birch tree. They say that in winter puffs of steam issue from their nostrils like that from a steamboat. The stories of their size are interesting even to one acquainted with the Mission Indians. Badlani in his Wonders of Alaska tells of tusks bought by the Alaska Trading Company with flesh and blood still ad- hering to them. He has also heard of a huge bear that inhabits the higher mountains of the Yukon country whose legs are longer on one side than on the other, thus facilitating his lonely meander- ings on the sides of the cloud-swept peaks. I have no doubt if Badlam had met one of those favored freaks of nature he would have learned a great deal more about them, for it would seem that an animal thus constructed would experience great difficulty in turning and making off in the opposite direction, unless the same providence had constructed it like a double ender with search-lights at either end. LOWER RAMPARTS. The Rampart mountains are followed by the river manj- miles after leaving the flats, and no streams of any note enter until the Tanana river is reached. This river is probably six or seven hundred miles long with many tributaries. It drains that country lying between the Copper river and the Yukon as far south as the White river. This river is little known and the Indians there are reported hostile. The country about the head waters will un- doubtedly prove one of the richest gold fields of the whole countrj- and prospectors will probably push their way there within the next two years. NUKLUKYETO. Nuklukj^eto is situated on the north bank just below the mouth of the Tozikakat river. The Alaska Commercial Company has a post here, run by Al. Meyhue, who has been in the country for more than thirty years. The trade here is almost entirely with the Indians, many of the Tanana Indians coming all the waj- from the head waters of the Tanana in summer to trade. GULDE TO THE YUKON 49 KOYUKUK RIVER. This river enters from the north and is the first large river after leaving the Tanana. It enters the Yukon about five hundred miles below that river and is navigable for many miles. It is quite as large as the Tanana but has a much milder current. The Alaska Commercial Company has a small steamer that supplies their po.sts on this river as well as the missions. Gold has been found on this river in paying quantities. Nulato, a trading post of the Alaska Commercial Company, is situated on the same side of the river some distance below. From here the river is much wider, yet losing little of its force of current. The country pre- sents a sameness on this lower river that becomes monotonous even on the down trip, with the boat making as high as twenty- two miles an hour. It must seem much more monotonous on the up trip on account of the slow progress of the boat. LOWER RIVER NATIVES. Indians of an inferior class become more numerous as the mouth is approached. Their fishing camps are passed at almost every turn of the river and they have fish-traps at every eddy and pro- tected place. A large number died last winter owing to the severe cold, floods and lack of food. Their food consists almost entirely of fish, and the only clothing worn by many is made from pre- pared salmon skins. Boots and gloves are also made from salmon skins. These Indians are laz}' and it is with difficulty that they can be induced to cut wood for the steamers. There are very few fur-bearing animals in this section of the countr}^, hence wood is about the only means of barter they have. It is very abundant along the banks of the river. The Innoko and Anvik rivers are the only other streams of any importance that enter the Yukon from here on. After pass- ing those rivers the current becomes much milder and the river wider. Islands are passed near the mouth, some of which hav^e a total length of one hundred miles. The flats and sand bars make feeding and hatching ground for thousands of wild geese. The mouth of the river spreads out to a great wadth and its numerous channels are filled with sand bars. Probably hundreds of miles 3 50 GUIDE TO THE YUKON of this low land has been filled in with the silt brought down by the swift current of this might}' volume of water. Behring sea for miles is shoaled to such an extent that vessels drawing more than a few feet of water have to land their cargoes at St. Michael's island, about sixt}' miles from the mouth of the river, and the river boats are compelled to make this stretch of open water. SAINT MICHAEL'S ISLAND. Here the trading companies of the Yukon district have their principal warehouses. The Alaska Commercial Company has been established here for j-ears and has fine painted buildings, presenting a pleasing appearance. A new company, the North American Trading and Transportation Company, is also building fine large warehouses and as it is a wideawake, progressive com- pany, it will undoubtedly have as fine buildings as the other has. They both carry a large stock of goods through the winter and many men could find comfortable quarters here, if by accident supplies run short up the river, which is liable to be the case if a very great number of men go into the mines this spring. The ice does not leave the mouth of the river and about Saint Michael's until the first of June. Ships loaded for this island sel- dom find it convenient to land their cargo before June 20. This makes the running season for the river boats little more than three months. In that time they can usualh' make three trips to Forty Mile Post, extending one trip up as far as the Pell}', if no accident happens to delay them. Accidents are always possible owing to the constant changing of the sand bars. To run a boat upon one of those bars means much delay, especially if it occurs on the down trip. These river boats will connect at Saint Michael's with steamers running to Seattle and San Francisco. A time-card can be found on another page giving the necessary information con- cerning the time of leaving points along the route. These boats connect with the mail boat for Sitka and way points. The trip along the coast is one of great interest. Many noted points are passed and active volcanos seen. Wild fowl, fur seal, walrus and whale can be seen from the ship's deck almo.st any day. The curio seeker can reap a rich harvest, for few who visit this countrj' have time or inclination to indulge in the collection of specimens. The Indians about St. Michael's are very ingenious and indus- GUIDE TO THE YUKON 51 trious. A collection there would consist chief!}' of ivory fashioned into everything from a symbolic representation of the history of the famih' to an expected addition. NAVIGATION ON THE YUKON. The navigable waters of the Yukon and its tributaries are al- most unlimited. The Lewis can undoubtedly be ascended to the foot of White Horse in a suitable boat, while the lakes above would furnish hundreds of miles of navigable waters. The Pelly could also be ascended a good distance, while many of its branches are also navigable. The Stewart, Tahkeena, Hootalinqua and its lake connections, would make fine waterways, while the Porcu- pine, Tanana, Koyukuk, Anvik and White rivers. Birch creek, Salmon river and many others, to the extent of many thousand miles, will in time be navigated by steamers. At present there are two large boats running from St. Michael's to Pelly river. One, the Arctic, owned by the Alaska Commercial Company, is used to supply their stations at Forty-Mile Post, Sixty-Mile and Pelly rivers. This company has done a trading business for many years and has large warehouses at St. Michael's, sixty miles from the mouth of the river. They also run several smaller boats to their stations along the lower river and will undoubtedly add a new and larger boat to their fleet in the spring. The P. B. Weare, 1 am informed, is the largest boat navigating these waters at pres- ent. It is owned by the North American Trading and Transpor- tation Company and is used to supply their stations along the river. It is a large, modern river boat, with large double boilers, and consumes about twenty-five cords of wood per day. The two companies will double the amount of supplies this year and will .undoubtedly be able to supply all who visit the mines the coming season. Connections will be made at St. Michael's with boats for San Francisco and Sound points. The following passenger rates are now charged: From Forty- Mile Post to St. Michael's, first- class, $50.00, second class, $30.00; to San Francisco, first-class, $175.00, second class, $150.00. The North American Trading and Transportation Company will run passenger steamers from San Francisco and Seattle. The boats will accommodate about one hundred passengers. Tourists, miners and others wishing to go to the Yukon country without the hardships accompanying the 52 GUIDE TO THE YUKON trip down the river and at a reasonable price will patronize the North American Trading and Transportation Company's boats. TAKU ROUTE. The Canadian government is making a preliminarj^ survej' of this route and will build a trail within the 3'ear, if such concessions as are necessarj^ can be had from our government. This trail would open up all their extensive country Ij'ing beyond the Coast range down to the 141st meridian, most of which is a good graz- ing country, as well as being rich in minerals. This route leads up the Taku Inlet to the Coast range, thence by a low pass a dis- tance of about eighty-five miles to waters running into Lake Tes- lin. The pass is said to be timbered the entire distance and to run through a fine grazing country. By striking the waters of Teslin lake, thence across this lake and down the Hootklinqua, no falls are encountered other than the Five Fingers, which offer no great obstacles. This would always prove an easy route, but would, in case of a trail by way of Chilkoot or White pass, be used only for the country not reached by those trails, they being so much shorter than the Taku. Should our government grant such concessions as the Canadian government will ask for, such a trail would prove the greatest detriment to our interests on the Pacific coast. Not only the wholesale houses on the Sound, but the outfitting establishments of Juneau would suffer thereby. Victoria would at once come into prominence, and English goods would take the place of Amer- can goods. Not only would this hold true in their own territory, but large quantities of those goods would find their way across the line and supply miners on our side of the present imaginary boundary. When the boundary is definitely established, it will be difficult to enforce custom regulations. If our government is not willing to assist in the development of Alaska, it should see to it that what has been accomplished by private enterprise shall not be injured by foreign competition. WHITE PASS. This is undoubtedly the best pass, all things considered, that cuts the coast range. It is at least one thousand feet lower than GUIDE TO THE YUKON 53 the Chilkoot and little higher than the Taku. It is reported tim- bered the entire length. Its salt water terminus is about eightj-- five miles north of Juneau, and ocean steamers can run up to the landing at all times, where there is a good townsite, well protected from storms. The pass lies through a box canyon surrounded by high granite peaks, and is comparatively easy. The first seven miles from salt water lie up the bottom lands of the Skagway river through heavy timber. Then for about seven miles farther the way is over piles of boulders and moraines which would prove the most expensive part of the trail. This trail would not exceed thirty-two miles in length and would strike Windy armofTagish lake or Taku arm coming in farther up the lake. All of this part of the lake is well timbered and accessible to Lake Bennett and its connections. White pass could be used as a mail route any month in the year. CHILKOOT PASS. This pass is the shortest of all the passes but the highest by at least one thousand feet. It is the one always used by the mniers and is the route followed in the pages of this guide. It starts at the head of Taiya inlet and follows the bottom lands of the Taiya river for some eight miles, where it enters the canyon. The Sheep camp is at timber line and from there the scene is one of extreme desolation, occupied only by glaciers and mountain sheep. No vegetation of anj^ kind cani be seen for miles around the summit. Healey & Wilson have a trading post and outfitting establish- ment at Taiya. They will give all necessary assistance in secur- ing packers over this trail. The total length of this trail from Wilson's to Lake Lindeman is about twenty-four miles, although a second short portage at the foot of Lindeman will have to be made. If this trail should ever become the improved route, this piece of river could be made navigable for lighters. CHILKAT PASS. The Chilkat trail leads over the Chilkat pass and is about one hundred and twenty-five miles in length from the head of Chilkat inlet to where it strikes the waters of the Tahkeena river. This 54 GUIDE TO THE YUKON was the old trail used by the Indians to and from the interior and leads all the way through to Old Fort Selkirk by land. Jack Daulton has used this trail at times in taking horses to the interior, portaging to the Tahkeena, then by raft down that river to the Lewis, thus proving that the Tahkeena is navigable for a small stern-wheel steamer for a distance of some seventy miles. POSSIBLE RAILROx^D ROUTE. As the mines of the Yukon are developed and the basin becomes populated with the large number that must necessarily follow within a few years, means of quicker mail and transportation facil- ities will be needed. When the Siberian & Arctic railroad shall become a reality trains could leave Chicago by way of Winnipeg and reach the Yukon basin in three days' run ; thence on to Behr- ing straits, which could easily be tunneled. Four days out from Chicago would land one on Siberian soil. This would open up the greatest commercial route the world has ever known. Three thousand miles of this route are already built and operated by the Russian government, and with the more liberal views of that government, which seem to be assured in the near future, and the constant concentration of capital which is .seeking great enter- prises, a populated country through which to run, and the com- paratively few obstacles in the construction of such a road, all go to assure its success. At no far di.stant day this railroad could run parallel with the Rocky mountains and follow the high table- land all the way to the Yukon without encountering any obstacles whatever in an engineering sen.se, and the whole distance to the straits would prove no more difficult than building a road across our plain country. This route would soon become the tourist route to all Europe. No longer would the dangers of the sea and the ever-dreaded seasickness be considered in a contem- plated trip abroad. RESOURCES.— COPPER. Copper will undoubtedly prove in the near future one of this country's greatest resources. Ever since Alaska was discovered the Indians have shown much native copper, and mountains of GUIDE TO THE YUKON 55 this ore are said to exist in the Copper river region. This region is so little known, however, that much time must elapse before it will become accessible. The deposits on the Yukon and its tribu- taries must soon draw capital in their direction. IRON AND COAL. Vast beds of iron and coal are known to exist in many parts of Alaska. Especiall^^ is this true of the Yukon, and when the various modes of travel shall demand cheap fuel, then another of the Yukon's resources will come to the front. PLATINUM. Platinum is found in nearly all the Yukon country in associa- tion with gold, and it may some day prove a rich field for this metal. GAME. — MOOSE. That the Yukon basin is a fine game country, all who have vis- ited it admit. The upper country abounds in moose, bear, cari- bou and much smaller game. White river is reported by the Indians to be a great moose country, the moose there growing to a greater size than in any other part of the American continent. When fat its flesh is always tender and palatable. This is prob- ably due to the rapid growth and tenderness of all vegetation. In summer some of the moose of that region have a wonderful spread of horns and reach a weight of 1,500 pounds. It is one of the principal sources of food for the Indians who find little trouble in killing them at all seasons of the year. The moose, owing to its great size and strength, can procure food despite the deep snows and severe cold. They are not dainty, and will eat almost any- thing, so that they are fat even in early spring. The skins are coarse and brown when tanned, and are used by the Indians for gloves, moccasins and clothing and even for their lodges. The moose, unlike other ruminants, is a fighter and the female, single- handed, will protect her young from a whole pack of wolves, and the bull in the fall is an ugly customer even for the hunter to tackle. CARIBOU. The woodland caribou is found throughout the lake and upper river country. It averages nearly twice the size of the barren 56 GUIDE TO THE YUKON land caribou or reindeer and its habits are also quite different. It never migrates toward the north in summer, but travels directly the opposite way. The caribou here have great powers of endur- ance and can trot at a gait equal to that of the best horse. In deep snow it is almost useless to pursue them, their wide flat hoofs and the manner in which they spread them, enabling them to keep quite on top of the snow. The)'^ are much more strongly built than the barren land caribou and the horns are much stronger and rounder. This species is almost untamable and shows no in- clination to work like their cousins in the Bald hills. BARREN LAND CARIBOU OR ARTIC REINDEER. This animal, altogether different from the woodland caribou, occupies the Bald hills near the Acrtic circle where food is so scarce that it is constantl)' on the move, having to migrate to the south in winter. In the severest winters its range is many hun- dred miles in that direction. While it and the woodland caribou were originally of one species, its mode of living differs so widely from its cousin that its habits and appearance have changed until it can no longer be considered a very near relative to the noble monarch of the woods, that leads a life of perfect idle- ness and plent}^ in the rich pine-clad lands to the south. It is not to be wondered that with their decrease in size their manner and temper have also changed, and that, with a little coaxing, they readily become beasts of burden. When the time conies for the dogs to give wa}^ to their more favored successors, ev^erybod}- in this great country will rejoice. The past five winters about Forty- Mile creek have been unusually severe and great herds have ranged further south than usual. It is estimated that no less than five thousand were killed last year in this vicinity. The herds are reported to number hundreds of thousands. Their horns, which are counted by the hundreds on the Bald hills, are more slender and have a much greater spread than the woodland caribou, thus causing them little difficulty in ranging the sparsely wooded country. All are provided with the snow shovel, reaching quite down to the point of the nose, to assist them in procuring the reindeer moss and lichens in the country they inhabit. This is undoubtedly the reason why the female, as well as the male, is provided with antlers. The endurance of these animals, if not over estimated, is wonderful, and the ease with which they make GUIDE TO THE YUKON o? long journeys through deep snow or over the soggy moss of this country would well fit them for the sleigh or freighter. UKAR. There are many species of bear in Alaska, and probably the St. Elias grizzly attains a greater size than any other bear in the world. If he is not a fighter, he is surely not a coward. This bear is found in the St. Elias Alps and many of the ranges of Alaska, but is more common in the high ranges of mountains east of the Yukon river, below Sixty-Mile creek. On the Klondyke river they are so numerous as to prevent the Indians from hunting there when fish are plenty. This bear, like the whole bear fam- ily, is a great fish eater. It is during the fish season only that this bear leaves its haunts in the high mountains for the lowlands. It likes variety and is more of a meat eater than its less dignified brother, the common or brown bear. Several men who have come in contact with this bear remember it to the extent of a leg or arm, and even think themselves lucky to escape with their lives. Some of the skins of this bear are enormous in size, and one skull I- ex- amined was beyond comparison with anything in the bear line I have ever seen. This St. Elias grizzly when young looks almost white at a distance. It stands higher than other bear and is wary, even in this remote region, beyond any animal I have ever hunted. On the other hand, the brown and black bear of this region are easily approached, and especially when nosing along the banks of streams searching for food. In one case we actually ran our boat within thirty feet of one on a clear morning, while our portable stove was yet burning, having cooked breakfast in the boat. MOUNTAIN GOAT. This animal, while probably smaller than the Rocky mountain goat further south, is identical. Its weight will average, perhaps, one hundred pounds, and both sexes have horns. Its home is on the cloud-swept peaks, surrounded by Nature's solitudes, and it seems most content in its gloomy surroundings, when the thunder- bolt goes crashing down the rugged sides of the canyon, or where the steeps are swept by the mighty avalanche. Its coat is well adapted to its rugged home. Under the long outer hair a fleecy wool protects it in its wonderful leaps from rock to rock. Its legs are straight and stiff and its horns are black. The pelt makes fine robes and is much prized by the Indians. 58 GUIDE TO THE YUKON MOUNTAIN SHEEP. This animal is found throughout Alaska, being more numerous in the Coast range of mountains than in the interior. It attains a much larger size than the goat, and a ram may often be found weighing three hundred pounds. It is among the wariest of all hoofed game of the American continent. It is hardly w^orth the time and trouble that is usually consumed in securing it. Its coat is of light gray color and some hunters claim a great delicacy for its flesh. .LYNX. The North American lynx is abundant throughout the upper river and lake country. It probably attains a larger size there than in any other part of the continent. It is easily trapped and any rifle kills it readil}'. Although large and strong, its tenacit}^ of life is far below all other species of the cat family. The pelt is finely furred and makes excellent robes. Its principal food is the rabbit, which abounds throughout that country. Its legs and feet are large and powerful and well covered with hair, giving it rather a clum.sy appearance which is turning to one of ludicrous- ness when frightened. At such times the short, stubbed tail stands erect, the back is arched, and with whiskers standing straight out it makes ofi" by a succession of spasmodic jumps in a way that often totally disconcerts even the old hunter. WOLVEvS. Alaska, like all of North America, is more or less inhabitated by wolves. The gray timber wolf of average size is found there. It is so wary as to be seldom seen by man. It has all the cunning of the fox and like all varieties is a coward, except when found in great numbers. In the interior they are numerous. In parts of the Coast country they exist in such numbers that no deer are found on the main land along the whole coast, although the is- lands are exceedingly well stocked with them. WOLVERINE. This animal is probably more plentiful throughout the upper river and lake sections than any other part of the world. Its peculiar habits and singular appearance are little known even to most naturalists. I cannot recall ever having seen it in captivity. The body is heavy and covered with long hair and fur much GIUDE TO THK YUKON 59 prized by the Indians as trimming for their winter garments. Its legs, although short, do not prevent it from making long jour- neys through deep snow. As there is scarcely any limit to its food capacity, it is continually on the move, yet so wary and careful that it is seldom seen. FISH. While the salmon is by far the m.ost important fish of the Yu- kon there are many varieties of fine fish, the ever cold water keep- ing their flesh hard and palatable at all seasons of the year. Probably next to the salmon in importance comes the white fish, of which there are several varieties, some reaching a good size. They are found throughout almost the entire river basin. Lake trout of a good size are found everywhere in the lake country. A species of fish known to the miner as lake cod, is also found in the lakes. It seems to be a cross between the sal- mon and white fish, having characteristics of each. It is of good size and rises readily to a troll. Throughout the summer months landlock salmon, similar to those of Maine and Canada, abound in the lakes. Grayling or arctic trout is found in the rivers. It rises readily to a fly, the small black being the best. A small piece of black thread fastened around the hook will answer the purpose. They frequent the mouths of small streams and falls and are found in great numbers about the canyons and White Horse rapids. Pike are numerous about the lower river, while the sucker is found everywhere. Miners provided with gill nets need have no fear of starving. Along the river anywhere in the summer and fall by such means they could readily lay in a sup- ply sufficient to last throughout the winter. DISCOVERY OF GOLD IN THE YUKON BASIN. There seems to be no definite authority as to when and where gold was first discovered in the Yukon basin. No two miners agree on this subject. Gold is reported to have been found by the Hudson Bay Company's men early in the sixties. George Holt is credited by Dawson as probably the first white man to cross the Coast range for the purpose of prospecting. The date of Holt's journey is given as 1878 and whether he followed the trail over the Chilkoot or White pass is not certain. He de- 60 GUIDE TO THE YUKON scended the lakes to Lake Marsh then followed the Indian trail to the Hootalinqua, returning by the same route in the fall. The Coast Pilot gives the date of Holt's journe)' as 1872 or 1874. On his return he reported having found coarse gold near or on the Hootalinqua river and while no coarse gold has since been found in that locality the bars of that river have yielded much flour gold. This lends some color to Holt's story which may yet be confirmed. In 1880 a prospecting party was organized at Sitka under the leadership of Edward Bean. They established friendly relations with the Chilkats and Chilkoots and were permitted to cross the range by way of Chilkoot pass to Lake Lindeman, where they built boats and descended the Lewis as far as the Hoot- alinqua. The party numbered about twenty-five, one of whom informed Dawson that gold was found in a small stream fifteen miles above the canyon the diggings yielding $2.50 per day. The same year Slim Jim, now residing at Juneau, and John Macken- zie crossed the Chilkoot pass and probably other parties followed within the year. According to the Coast Pilot a party of four mim- ers crossed the range in 188 1 and descended the Lewis as far as Big Salmon river, which they ascended for some 200 miles, finding gold on all of its bars some of which paid well. This find may be characterized as the first gold discovered in paying quantities in the Yukon basin. In 1884 and 1885 some mining was done on the Pelly and Hootalinqua rivers. vSome miners reached the Stewart in the spring of 1886 and Ca.ssiar bar was also located the same year and actively worked during the season. This was the richest bar ever located on the Yukon or any of its tributaries yielding manj^ thousands of dollars. Late in the autumn of the same year coarse gold was discovered on Forty Mile creek. The announcement of this discovery drew off all the miners from the upper river country. In 1887 a miner named Williams perished on the summit of Chil- koot pass in trying to bring out the news. The bars of Fortj^ Mile creek were worked for a few years at good profit, but .since the discovery of coarse gold in the gulches the}'- have been aban- doned. It may be truly said that raining in this country is only begun and that only a few of the most accessible streams have even been prospected. All the larger rivers of the upper country furnish flour gold which increases in coarseness as the rivers are ascended. Thus it is clear that the surrounding gulches in many GUIDE TO THE YUKON 61 places must furnish exceedinj^ly rich diggings. The territory cut by these streams is almost unlimited. One hundred thousand men could prospect the Yukon basin and l)e lost to one another. The greatest drawback is the limit of supplies. This will be over- come in the near future as the companies there at present are wideawake to the needs and possibilities of the country. I can see only a bright future for the entire Yukon basin as a mining country, not only in the auriferous deposits but in the vast leads of quartz found throughout the entire region. SOURCE OF THE YUKON. Much controversy from time to time has been indulged in as to the true source of the Yukon, and as to its name. The name Pelly W'as given to the whole river down to the Porcupine by early explorers, while the name Yukon was first applied in 1846 b}- Mr. J. Bell of the Hudson Bay Company. He reached the main river by descending the Porcupine from the Mackenzie, and called it by its Indian name. R. Campbell, an officer of the Hudson Bay Company, also descended the Pelly as far as the Porcupine, and named the Lewis, Stewart and White rivers. But not until the publishing of the Coast survey map of 1869 did the river be- come generall}' known as the Yukon as far up as the Pelly. Schwatka, who afterwards made an official exploration of the river, changed every name, never offering the pretext of an excuse. Thus the nomenclature of the Yukon and its tributaries became further confused. Schwatka applied the name Yukon to the Lewis, giving Lake Lindenian as its true source. There was some justification for this inasmuch as the Lewis carries the greater volume of water. Lake Lindeman and its connections, it would seem, are much smaller and shorter than the Toko Arm and its connections. Thus while the Lewis carries the larger vol- ume of water, it is far shorter and drains a smaller country than either the Hootalinqua or the Pelly. The Lewis, draining as it does the Coast range with its perpetual snow and glaciers, main- tains its volume of water long after the Hootalinqua and Pelly have reached their lowest summer level. Yet the Pelly is by far the longer river and enough is known of the Hootalinqua to prove it much longer than the Lewis. Those rivers drain a compara- 02 GUIDE TO THE YUKON tively dry country, the snowfall being light and the rainfall even lighter, therefore the true source of the Yukon yet remains to be definitely settled. CLIMATE. The climate in the lake region and down to old Fort Yukon is although cold in winter and warm in summer, very agreeable. The snow in the upper river country never exceeds three or four feet, often hardly- two. In summer little rain falls except during an occasional thunder storm. The summer season is truly one long dream of sunshine, due to the protection of the high Coast range which precipitates the ever present humidity of the coast, leaving the interior dry. The general direction of the winds is inland in summer and directly opposite in winter. This is cau.sed by the rising of the hot air of the interior in summer and in win- ter by the existence of a persistent north wind which easily forces the coast breezes seaward. The winters, while cold, are so devoid of humidity that the cold is easily endured and one suffers less when the thermometer registers forty below than on the coast at zero. WINTER CLOTHES. Most of the miners adopt the native custom and dress, to a cer- tain extent. The boots are of several varieties, most of which are made by the coast Indians. The water boot is made of seal and walrus skins, while the dry weather or winter boot is made in an endless variety of styles, some having fur-trimmed legs elaborately designed, giving them a pleasing appearance. They wear well and range in price from two to five dollars per pair. Trousers are often made of Siberian fawn skin and the skin of the marmot or ground squirrel. The upper garment, called d. parka, is usually made of marmot skins and trimmed \\\W\ wolverine around the hood and lower edge, the long hair taken from the sides of the wolverine being used for the hood. This hair is sometimes five or six inches in length, thereby protecting the face of the person wearing the hood. Wolverine skins are prized very highly on the coast of Behring sea, and as that animal does not inhabit the coast, the skins are bought by the traders in the lake country and sold GUIDE TO THE YUKON 63 to the inhabitants of the coast. In some instances they are bought in San Francisco and taken up to this fur-bearing countrj' for trade. The women's /!>ar^'« differs sHghtly from that worn b}^ the men, being cut up at the sides some ten inches and rounded at the bottom like a skirt. Some of these come all the way from Siberia, and are works of art. Some are made of fawn skins and trimmed with the fur of the white wolf. The inside is beautifull}' embroidered with colored silks and ornamented with otter's fur and dyed feathers. Some of these parkas cost as high as one hun- dred dollars. Good, warm flannels can be worn under these and the whole outfit will weigh less than the ordinary clothes worn in a countr}- where the weather gets down to zero. They have an attractive an unique appearance, and are rather enjoyed after once worn. They are almost cold proof. For bedding the best blank- ets to be obtained are u.sed; also fur robes, those made of lynxs' skins being about the best, considering price and wear. A good lynx robe sells for one hundred dollars. Bear, mink and red fox robes are also used. The arctic hare makes cheap and nice robes, as well as socks to be worn with the .skin boots. NEW DISCOVERY AT COOK INLET. Cook Inlet has been prospected for many years, but with little success, although flour gold is found all along the coast. This washes in with a fine magnetic sand, and although worked for some time in the short summer only small wages have been made. One surface claim, after running a ditch some distance for water, was worked with some success. This was on the east coast of the inlet. Another claim, located on the Turnagain Arm, has been worked for some time with better results, as high as ten dollars per day being made. This attracted some attention, and in the spring of 1894 twenty men went to that localit5^ New diggings were located that, according to report, are quite rich, as high as twent}- dollars per day being made. The gold is of a coarse character, and is located over the ridge from Turnagain Arm on the small creek that enters near its mouth. Bedrock lies near the surface, and the creeks are said to have a good grade. Nuggets weighing upwards of one ounce were found, and the men from whom I learned the above seemed very sanguine over the prospects, and 64 GUIDE TO THE YUKON expected to return this spring with provisions for a long stay. To test them, I tried to imbue them with the Yukon excitement b}- telling them of the numerous new and rich finds in that coun- try, but they would not think of leaving their prospects. THE YUKON RIVER. What the Amazon is to South America, the Mississippi to the central portion of the United States, the Yukon is to Alaska. It is a great inland highway, which makes it possible for the explorer to penetrate that unknown country where heat and cold for ages have contended for the mastery, to reveal to the world the treas- ures so long held secret in that ice-vaulted region. A wonderful story will be unfolded as the mysteries are brought to light; but the revelation of the wonders therein contained will of necessity be made verj^ slowly, for the reason that the only key to this frozen, rock-ribbed region is carried by the king of day in his tri- umphant march through the skies, and he permits the use of it for only a brief period during the summer of eight to ten weeks. But were it not for this great artery, the Yukon river, which goes pulsating for 2,600 miles through the northwest, bidding defiance to the frost king, with his rivers of ice and mountains of snow, the world would remain in ignorance of the untold wealth of the interior of Alaska. The Yukon has its source in the Rocky mountains of British Columbia and the Coast Range mountains in southeastern Alaska, about 125 miles from the city of Juneau. This branch of the Yu- "kon, which is known as the Lewis river for 357 miles, the writer has fully explored, and a description of the same is given in the preceding pages of this book. The branch that heads in British Columbia is known as the Pelly river and is 600 miles in length. These two branches unite and are then known as the Yukon. At the confluence of the Lewis and VoWy rivers is located Fort Sel- kirk. The Yukon proper is 2,044 niiles in length and is navigable the entire distance for flat-bottom boats with a carrying capacity of from four to five hundred tons. From Fort Selkirk the Yukon flows northwest 400 miles, touching the Arctic circle; thence south- west for a distance of 1,600 miles, where it empties into Behring sea. It drains more than 600,000 square miles of territory and GUIDE TO THE YUKON 65 discharges one-third more water into Behring sea than does the Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico. It is sixty miles wide at its month and very shallow, which prevents its navigation by sea- going vessels. Fifteen hundred miles inland the river widens out from one to ten miles and a thousand islands send the channel in as many different directions, and onl}' natives who are thoroughly familiar with the river are entrusted to pilot boats up the stream during the season of low water. Unlike the Amazon or Mississippi, with their borders of low- lands, receding hills and flat, swampy districts, the Yukon has sawed mountain chains vertically in twain and forced its way through granite walls, which have been chiseled into all sorts of fantastic forms by the glaciers of long ago. An unending pano- rama of grandeur greets the eye of the traveler in the months of June, July and August, as he is borne along on the current of this mighty stream, which is onl}^ second in size to the largest river of the world. Its banks are fringed with flowers, carpeted with the all-prevailing moss or tundra; birds innumerable sing out a wel- come from every tree top, and pitch your tent where you will in midsummer, a bed of roses, a clump of poppies and a bunch of bluebells will adorn your camping place. One realizes that he is in a land of paradoxes. He wdll see a giant glacier sleeping on top the mountain wall, along beside which he will see in bloom flowers of almost endless variet)'. About September 25th the scene of beauty is suddenly changed, when Winter King advances, sending the alcoholic column eighty degrees below zero, the birds to the southland, the white man to his cabin, the Indian to his hut and the bear to his sleeping chamber in the mountains. Every stream becomes a river of ice, every hill a mountain of snow, and the valleys of beautiful flow'ers are changed into a scene of eternal whiteness. INDIANS ALONG THE YUKON. In making a journey into the interior of Alaska and down the Yukon river, one comes in contact with ten different tribes, or remnants of tribes, of Indians. The Chilkats, who live in the country immediately surrounding Eyun canal, are the largest and most powerful tribe of all. They number only 1,000 and are 66 GUIDE TO THE YUKON diminishing rapidly every year because of the civiHzing (?) influ- ence of strong drink and its attendant vices, which the whites have introduced among them. Thej- are avaricious, shrewd and tricky, always a match for the white trader in driving a bargain. Thej'^ will subject themselves to the most excruciating labor and hardships for days and weeks for a few dollars in silver. They will make long journeys across the mountains into the interior with heavy loads upon their backs, climb the mountain steeps, struggle across great glaciers, wade icy streams, and, in a thinl}' clad, half-starved condition, endure privations from which, to the tourist, it would seem death would be a welcome relief. All the tribes of the upper Yukon bear a close resem])lance to each other in form and features, which are not unlike the Shvash Indian of Puget Sound. The "Sticks" are probably the most stalwart of an}'. They lay claim to the distinction of being " all same as Boston man." I thought, however, that I could see some slight chance for improvement, but not being a resident of the Hub I had no quarrel with them on that score. Until recent years the natives of the Yukon have had to depend entirely upon game and fish for food and for this reason man}' of the tibes have no permanent abiding place but follow the game from one section of the country to another. The}- are good hunt- ers and show great skill in the management of their birch bark canoes in the swift waters and rapids of the mountain streams. All the Indians of the upper river dress in the garb of civilization. Traders bring large quantities of food and clothing up the river, thus affording an opportunity for the natives to exchange their furs and dried fish for the necessaries of life, which, to an average Indian means plenty of tobacco, a little fire-water, a gun and ammunition. There are three or four missions along the river and as a rule the missionaries are well received. Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Bunipus have had charge of the mission at Forty Mile Post for the past three years. There are 200 communicants at this place who attend all the services of the sanctuary as religiously and regu- larly as they light their pipes after a hearty repast on moose meat and dried fish. The Indians make themselves useful in many ways about the trading posts — sawing lumber, building low cabins, unloading steamers, acting as guides to miners while crossing the country, (iUIDK TO THE YUKON G7 packing provisions into the miners during the summer and haul- ing supplies on dogs sledges during the winter. Further down the river the Indians are not so thrift}'. Their principal diet is fish, seal oil and berries. Their hovels are about ten feet square on the ground and have a slanting roof. About four feet above the ground poles are placed across serving as ioists. The space above the poles is utilized for storing away dried fish, game, seal skins filled with berries preserved in oil, which are a great luxury among the natives. The space below the poles, which is only high enough for the inmates to sit tailor-like fash- ion with head and shoulders bent forward, is used for cooking, eating, sleeping, cleaning fish and game of all sorts. They are devoid of all sense of cleanliness and take no santary precaution whatever to ward off disease. In one village where we stopped to take on wood we found the dead bodies of three men almost en- tirely exposed with scarcely any dirt upon them excepting that which they had accumulated during their natural lifetime in the absence of applied soap and water. A more filthy, degraded, loathsome set of creatures it would be hard to find. The mortality of these tribes is very great and within a few short years they will be creatures of the past and their graveyards will furnish an interesting field for relic hunters, and their bones along with those of the mammoth, giant buflFalo, and ichthyosau- rus, will adorne the museums of the world while their spirits con- tinue the chase in the " happy hunting ground " beyond. PURCHASE OF ALASKA. This little volume upon Alaska would be incomplete without a summary of the history of its purchase and a statement of its area and extent. Czar Nicholas offered to give Russian America to the United States in 1844 and 45, during Polk's administration, provided our government would pay the cost of transfer and maintain the boun- darj^ line at 45° 40'. In 1854 it was offered to the United States and again in 1859, when $5,000,000 were refused. It seemed to be the desire of the Czar to place it beyond the power of England's acquiring it in case of war with that country. During the war of the Rebellion, our government greatly appreciated the moral 68 GUIDE TO THE YUKON support given us by the Czar of Russia in sending fleets to the harbor of San Francisco and New York at a time when France and England were on the point of recognizing the government of the Confederate States. Hearing of the desire of the Czar to sell his possessions in America, and appeciating their great value, Secretary of State Wm. H. Seward felt that its purchase would serve a double purpose; it would please the Czar and secure to the United States a valuable territory. Accordingly negotiations were opened in February, 1867. A treat)^ of purchase was sent to the senate March 30, 1867, reported April 9, ratified May 28, and pro- claimed by the president June 20 of the same year. Charles Sum- ner suggested Alaska, the name given to Captain Cook by the natives. The price paid was $7,200,000, less than half a cent an acre. It has proved a profitable investment from the date of pur- chase, yielding a net profit of 8 per cent, for the first five years upon the price paid. The salmon industrj^ jaelded $7,500,000 in the six years from 1884 to 1890. The Treadwell mine alone has added more than the purchase price to the wealth of the world. AREA AND EXTENT. Alaska proper contains an area of 580, 107 square miles; the islands of Alexander archipelago 31,205 square miles, and the Aleutian islands 6,391 square miles. It has an extent of over 1,000 miles from north to south, and the island of Attn, of the Aleutian group, is 2,000 miles west of Sitka. The longitude of Attn is as many degrees west of San Francisco as Eastport, Maine, is degrees east. The sun never goes down upon the domain of the United States. JUNEAU. Juneau, the metropolis of Alaska, is the outfitting point, not onl}^ for the great muiing district of southeastern Alaska, but for miners on their way to the Yukon gold fields. The past year has witnessed a great improvement in the town and Juneau to-day has the appearance of a progressive city with fine buildings, substan- tial wharves, electric lights, water works, hotels, numerous retail and wholesale outfitting establishments. It is the headquar- mmrr"^ GUIDE TO THE YUKON 69 ters of several steamboat lines. The cit}- hall and courthouse stand guard over all on the crest of a high mound seemingly formed for the purpose. From the deck of incoming steamers up Gastineau Channel the view is a pleasing one, the fownsite alone being open to criticism, it having undoubtedly been formed by slides from the high mountains which surround it. It has a de- cided Alpine appearance. The adjacent mountains retain some snow nearly or quite the whole j^ear and the avalanches that tear down their rugged sides in spring form a spectacle that well repays a visit to this enterprising town. I spent some time trying to photograph one of those slides but was unsuccessful. They occur daity, and at night their rumb- lings will often awaken one from a sound sleep with the im- pression that an earthquake is shaking the foundation of the city. Cold but not slumbering glaciers occupy parts of this range, one running almost parallel with it, meeting the ocean at Taku Inlet. So lively does it move oceanward that at times the waters adjacent to Juneau are filled with floating bergs to such an f^xtent as to cause the greatest watchfulness on the part of nav- igators. Although the pass through which the Taku glacier emerges is some twenty miles from Juneau, I have seen bergs as large as a business block floating near the wharves. The lover of the alpenstock can here find real glaciers and mountains which he could ascend unaided to heights sufficient to break his neck with- out the assistance of accomplished and expensive guides. Juneau is the immediate center of an extensive and active min- ing district. It was founded in the winter of 1 880-81, gold hav- ing been discovered August 15, 1880, by Joseph Juneau and Rich- ard Harris. The town was first known as Harrisburg; later as Rockwell; but at a miners' meeting in November, 1881, it was wisely and justly re-christened Juneau in honor of Joseph Juneau. The hills and streams proved so rich in gold that miners from many parts of Alaska and British Columbia hastened to this re- gion, and within the j^ear Juneau became a flourishing and typical mining town with that uneasy, venturesome spirit of gambling prevalent that would have excited the admiration of a forty-niner. Since then it has become the commercial center of Alaska. Cap- ital has developed many mines in its vicinity and the past year has brought more money there than ever before. The coming year will undoubtedly mark an epoch in the history of mining in 70 GUIDE TO THE YUKON southern Alaska. The business men are shrewd and active and keep abreast of the times. Juneau .supports three weeklj^ papers, all bright, newsy sheets that would be a credit to any city having the advantages of wire and train connections with the rest of the world. They are always well filled with mining and general news concerning Ala.ska. DOUGLASS ISLAND. Upon Douglass island, two miles from Juneau and connected with it by ferry, the famous Treadwell gold mine is located. It has the largest quartz mill in the world. The ore of this mine is of a low grade but free-milling, the average yield per ton being $3.40; yet the net profits for the year ending May 15, 1894, amounted to $420,948.86. The Mexican mine, some half mile below the Treadwell, bids fair to become quite as famous. The new mill just completed on this property is of latest design, and reflects great credit upon the superintendent, Mr. Robert J. Duncan, Jr. Mr. Duncan is also superintendent of the Treadwell. The ore of the Mexican is of a higher grade than that of the Treadwell. DAWSON CITY. Dawson City is at the junction of the Klondyke river and the Yukon, The new gold finds lie up the Klondyke river from two to fifty miles, and the recent reports are that there is very little of the ground up this river that does not have the gold-bearing strata. Dawson City is now, and probably will be, the head of .steamboat navigation on the Yukon. GOLD DUST. Gold dust and nuggets are the principal mediums of exchange throughout the Yukon basin, but little money being in circulation. Everybody carries gold-scales, and .so adept does one become in a short time that it takes but little longer to make change than with coin. If a haircut is needed, the gold dust is weighed out — MINING REGULATIONS OF THE YUKON. Following are the Regulations governing placer mining along the Yukon river and its tributaries in the Northwest Territories, fixed by a recent order-in-council of the Dominion government: INTERPRETATION. " Bar diggings" shall mean an\' part of a river over which the water extends when the water is in its flooded state and which is not covered at low water. Mines on benches shall be known as " bench diggings," and shall, for the purpose of defining the size of such claims, be excepted from dry dig- gings. " Dry diggings " shall mean any mine over which a river never extends. " Miner" shall mean a male or female over the age of eighteen, but not under that age. "Claim " shall mean the personal right of property in a placer mine or diggings during the time for which the grant of such mine or diggings is made. "Legal post " shall mean a stake standing not less than four feet above, the ground and squared on four sides for at least one foot from the top. The sides so squared shall measure at least four inches across the face. It shall also mean any stump or tree cut off or squared or faced to the above height and size. " Close season " shall mean the period of the year during which placer mining is generally suspended. The period to be fixed by the gold com- missioner in whose district the claim is situated. "Locality " shall mean the territory along a river ( tributary of the Yu- kon river ) and its affluents. " Mineral" shall include all minerals whatsoever other than coal. NATURE AND SIZE OF CLAIMS. 1. " Bar diggings," a strip of land loo feet wide at high water mark and thence extending into the river to its lowest water level. 2. The sides of a claim for bar digging shall be two parallel lines run as nearly as possible at right angles to the stream, and shall be marked by four legal posts, one at each end of the claim at or about the edge of the water. One of the posts at high water mark shall be legally marked with the name of the miner and the date upon which the claim was staked, 73 74 GUIDE TO THE "YUKON 3. Dry diggings shall be 100 feet square and shall have placed at each of its four corners a legal post, upon one of which shall be legally marked the name of the miner and the date upon which the claim was staked. 4. Creek and river claims shall be 500 feet long, measured in the di- rection of the general course of the stream, and shall extend in width from base to base of the hill or bench on each side, but when the hills or benches are less than 100 feet apart the claim may be 100 feet in depth. The sides of the claim shall be two parallel lines run as nearly as possible at right angles to the stream. The sides shall be marked with legal posts at or about the edge of the water and at the rear boundaries of the claim. One ot the legal posts at the stream shall be legibly marked with the name of the miner and the date upon which the claim was staked. 5. Bench claims shall be 100 feet square. 6. In defining the size of claims they shall be measured horizontally, irrespective of inequalities on the surface of the ground. 7. If any person or persons shall discover a new mine and sucH dis- covery shall be established to the satisfaction of the gold commissioner, a claim for bar diggings 750 feet in length may be granted. A new statum of auriferous earth or gravel situated in a locality where the claims are abandoned shall for this purpose be deemed a new mine, although the same locality shall have been previously worked at a different level. 8. The forms of application for a grant for placer mining and the grant of the same shall be those contained in forms " H " and " I " in the schedule hereto. 9. A claim shall be recorded with the gold commissioner in whose district it is situated within three days after the location thereof, if it is located within ten miles of the commissioner's office. One extra day shall be allowed for making such record for every ten miles or fraction thereof. 10. In the event of the absence of the gold commissioner from his office, entry by a claim may be granted by any person whom he may appoint to perform his duties in his absence. 11. Entry shall not be granted for a claim which has not been staked by the applicant in person in the manner specified in these regulations. An affidavit that the claim was staked out by the applicant shall be em- bodied in form "H" of the schedule hereto. 12. An entry fee of $15 shall be charged the first year, and an annual fee of $100 for each of the following years. This provision shall apply to locations for which entries have already been granted. 13. After the recording of a claim the removal of any post by the holder thereof, or by any person acting in his behalf, lor the purpose of changing the boundaries of his claim, shall act as a forfeiture of the claim. 14. The entry of every holder of a grant for placer mining must by renewed and his receipt relinquished and replaced every year, the entry fee being paid each time. GUIDE TO THE YUKON 75 15. No miner shall receive a grant of more than one mining claim in the same locality, but the same miner may hold any number of claims by purchase, and an 3' number of miners may unite to work their claims in common upon such terms as they may arrange, provided such agreement be registered with the gold commissioner and a fee of five dollars be paid for each registration. 16. Any miner or miners may sell, mortgage or dispose of his or their claims, provided such disposal be registered with, and a fee of two dollars paid to the gold commissioner, who shall thereupon give the assignee a certificate in form " J " in the schedule hereto. 17. Every miner shall, during the continuance of his grant, have the exclusive right of entry upon his own claim, for the miner-like working thereof, and the construction of a residence thereon, and shall be entitled exclusively to all the proceeds realized therefrom; but he shall have no surface rij^hts therein; and the gold commissioner may grant to the holders of adjacent claims such right of entry thereon as may be absolutely neces- sary for the working of their claims, upon such terms as may to him seem reasonable. He may also grant permits to miners to cut timber thereon for their own use, upon payment of the dues prescribed by the regulations in that behalf. 18. Every miner shall be entitled to the use of so much of the water naturally flowing through or past his claim, and not alreadj' lawfully ap- propriated, as shall, in the opinion of the gold commissioner, be necessary for the due working thereof; and shall be entitled to drain his own claim free of charge. 19. A claim shall be deemed to be abandoned and open to occupation and entry by any person when the same shall have remained unworked on working days by the grantee thereof or by some person on his behalf for the space of seventy-two hours, unless sickness or other reasonable cause be shown to the satisfaction of the gold commissioner, or unless the grantee is absent on leave given by the commissioner, and the gold commissioner upon obtaining evidence satisfactory to himself that this provision is not being complied with may cancel the entry given for a claim. 20. If the land upon which a claim has been located is not the prop- ert}' of the crown it will be necessary for the person who applied for entry to furnish proof that he has acquired from the owner of the land the sur- face rights before entry can be granted. 21. If the occupier of the lands has not received a patent therefor, the purchase money of the surface rights must be paid to the crown, and a patent of the surface rights will issue to the party who acquired the mining rights. The money so collected will either be refunded to the occupier of the land, when he is entitled to a patent therefor, or will be credited to him on account of payment for land, 22. When the party obtaining the mining rights to lands cannot make an arrangement with the owner or his agent or the occupant thereof for the acquisition of his surface rights, it shall be lawful for him to give notice to the owner or his agent or the occupier to appoint an arbitrator to act with 7fi GUIDE TO THE YUKON another arbitrator named by him, in order to award the amount of com- pensation to which the owner or occupant shall be entitled. The notice mentioned in this section shall be according to a form to be obtained upon application from the gold commissioner for the district in which the lands in question lie, and shall, when practicable, be personally' served on such owner, or his agent if known, or occupant; and after reasonable efforts have been made to effect personal service, without success, then such no- tice shall be served by leaving at, or sending by registered letter to, the last place of abode of the owner, agent or occupant. Such notice shall be served upon the owner or agent within a period to be fixed by the gold commissioner before the expiration of the time limited in such notice. If the proprietor refuses or declines to appoint an arbitrator, or when, for any other reason, no arbitrator is appointed by the proprietor in the time lim- ited therefor in the notice provided for by this section, the gold commis- sioner for the district in which the lands in question lie, shall, on being satisfied by affidavit that such notice has come to the knowledge of such owner, agent or occupant, or that such owner, agent or occupant wilfully evades the service of such notice, or cannot be found, and that reasonable efforts have been made to effect such service, and that the notice was left at the last place of abode of such owner, agent or occupant, appoint an ar- bitrator on his behalf. 23. {a.) All the arbitrators appointed under the authority of these regulations shall be sworn before a justice of the peace to the impartial discharge of the duties assigned to them, and they shall forthwith proceed to estimate the reasonable damages which the owner or occupant of such lands, according to their several interests therein, shall sustain by reason of such prospecting and mining operations. (d.) In estimating such damages, the arbitrators shall determine the value of the land irrespectively of any enhancement therefrom from the existence of minerals therein, ( r.) In case such arbitrators cannot agree, they may select a third ar- bitrator, and when the two arbitrators cannot agree upon a third arbitrator the gold commissioner for the district in which the lands in question lie shall select such third arbitrator. ((/.) The award of any two such arbitrators made in writing shall be final, and shall be filed with the gold commissioner for the district in which the lands lie. In any cases arising for which no provision is made in these regulations, the provisions of the regulations governing the disposal of mineral lands other than coal lands, approved by his excellency the governor in council on the 9th of Novem])er, 1889, shall applj-. GUIDE TO THK YUKON 77 Form H.—App/icafion for grant for Placer Mining and Affidavit of Applicant. I, [or we], of hereby apply under the Dominion Mining Regulations, for a grant of a claim for placer mining as defined in the said regulations, in [Here describe locality], and I [or we] solemnly swear: 1. That I [or we] have discovered therein a deposit of [here name the metal or mineral], 2. That I [or we] am [or are] to the best of my [or our] knowledge and belief, the first discoverer [or discoverers] of the said deposit; or 3. That the said claim was previously granted to [here name the last grantee], but has remained unworked by the said grantee for not less than 4. That I [or we] am [or are] unaware that the land is other than vacant Dominion land. 5. That I [or we] did, on the day of mark out on the ground in accordance in every particular with the provisions of the mining regulations for the Yukon river and its tributaries, the claim for which I [or we] make this application, and that in so doing I [or we] make this application, and that in so doing 1 [or we] did not encroach on any other claim or mining location previously laid out by any other person. 6. That the said claim contains, as nearly as I (or we) could measure or estimate, an area of square feet, and that the description (and sketch, if any), of this date hereto attached, signed by me (or us) sets (or set) forth in detail, to the best of my (or our) knowledge and ability, its position, form end dimensions. 7. That I (or we) make this application in good faith, to acquire the claim for the sole purpose of mining, to be prosecuted by myself (or us) or by myself and associates, or by my (or our) assigns. Sworn before me at this day of 18 (Signature). Form I. — Grant for Placer Mining. No. Department of the Interior. Agency, 18 In consideration of the payment of five dollars, being the fee required by the provisions of the Dominion Mining Regulations, clauses four and twenty, by (A. B. ) of , accompanying his (or their) applica- tion No. dated 18 , for a mining claim in (here insert descrip- tion of locality). The Minister of the Interior hereby grants to the said (A. B.) , for the term of one year from the date hereof, the exclusive right of entry upon the claim (here describe in detail the claim granted) for the miner-like working thereof and the construction of a residence thereon, and the exclusive right to all the proceeds realized therefrom. 78 GUIDE TO THE YUKON The said (A. B. ) shall be entitled to the use of so much of the water naturally flowing through or past his (or their) claim, and not already lawfully appropriated, as shall be necessary for the due working thereof, and to drain his (or their) claim, free of charge. This grant does not convey to the said (A. B.) any surface rights in the said claim, or any right of ownership in the soil covered by the said claim; and the said grant shall lapse and be forfeited unless the claim is continuoush- and in good faith worked by the said (A. B.) or his (or their) associates. The rights hereby granted are those laid down in the aforesaid mining regulations, and no more, and are subject to all the provisions of said reg- ulations, whether the same are expressed herein or not. Gold Commissioner. Form J. — Certificate of the Assignment of a Placer Mining Claim. No. Department of the Interior, Agency, i8 This is to certify that (B.C.) of has (or have) filed an assignment in due form dated i8 , and accompanied b}' a registration fee of two dollars, of the grant to (A. B.) of of the right to mine in (insert description of claim) for one year from the i8 This certificate entitles the said (B. C.) to all the rights and privileges of the said (A. B.) in respect of the claim assigned, that is to say, to the exclusive right of entry upon the said claim for the miner-like working thereof and the construction of a residence thereon, and the exclusive right to all the proceeds realized therefrom, for the remaining portion of the year for which the said claim was granted to the said (A. B.) , that is to say, until the day of i8 The said (B. C.) shall be entitled to the use of so much of the water naturally flowing through or past his (or their) claim and not already lawfully appropriated, as shall be necessary for the due working thereof, and to drain the claim free of charge. This grant does not convey to the said (B. C.) any surface rights in the said claim, or any right of ownership in the soil covered by the said claim; and the said grant shall lapse and be forfeited unless the claim is continuouslj^ and in good faith, worked by the said (B. C.) or his (or their) associates. The rights hereby granted are those laid down in the Dominion Mining Regulations, and no more, and are subject to all the provisions of the said regulations, whether the same are expressed herein or not. Gold Commissioner. EXTRACTS FROM MR. OGII.VIE'S REPORTS TO THE DOMINION GOVERNMENT. William Ogilvie, of the Department of the Interior, in his report to the vSurveyor-General of Canada, dated November 6th, 1896, says the name of Klondak, Klondj-ke, or Clondyke, as it is variously spelled, is "a mispro- nunciation of the Indian word or words Thron-dak or Duick, which means plenty of fish, from the fact that it is a famous salmon stream. It is marked Tondack on old maps. It joins the Yukon from the east a few miles above the site of Fort Reliance. Concerning the discovery of gold on this stream, he says : — The dis- covery. I believe, was due to the reports of Indians. A white man named G. W. Carmach, who worked with me in 1887, was the first to take advan- tage of the rumors and located a claim on the first branch, which was named by the miners Bonanza Creek. Carmach located here late in August, but had to cut some logs for the mill here to get a few pounds of provisions to enable him to begin work on his claim, the fishing at Klon- dak having totally failed him. He returned with a few week's provisions for himself, his wife and brother-in-law (Indians), and another Indian in the last days of August and immediately set about working his claim. As he was very short of appliances he could only put together a rather de- fective apparatus to wash the gravel with. The gravel itself he had to carry in a box on his back from 30 to 100 feet. Notwithstanding this the three men working very irregularly washed out $1,200 in eight days, and Carmach asserts with reason that had he had proper facilities it could have been done in two days, besides having several hundred dollars more gold, which was lost on the tailings through defective apparatus. On the same creek two men rocked out $75 in about two hours, and it is asserted that two -men in the same creek took out $4,008 in two days with only two lengths of sluice boxes. This last is doubted, but Mr. Leduc assures me he weighed that much gold for them, but is not positive where they got it. They were newcomers and had not done much in the country, so the prob- abilities are they got it on Bonanza Creek. A branch of Bonanza, named Eldorado, has prospected magnificently, and another branch named Tilly Creek has prospected well; in all there are some four or five branches to Bonanza Creek which have given good prospects. Th,ere are about 170 claims staked on the main creek and the branches are good for about as many more, aggregating say 350 claims, which will require over 1,000 men to work properly. A few miles further up Bear Creek enters Klondyke, and it has been prospected and located on. Compared with Bonanza it is small and will not afford more than 20 or 30 claims, it is said. About 12 miles above the mouth of Gold Bottom Creek joins Klondyke and on it and a branch named Hunker Creek after the discovery very rich 79 80 GUIDE TO THE YUKON ground has been found. One man showed nie $22.75 he took out in a few hours on Hunker Creek, with a gold pan prospecting his claim on the sur- face, taking out a panful here and there as fancy suggested. On Gold Bot- tom Creek and branches there will probably be two or three hundred claims. The Indians have reported another creek much farther up, which they call Too Much Gold Creek, on which the gold is so plentiful that as the miners say in joke, '"You have to mix gravel with it to sluice it." Up to date nothing definite has been heard from this creek. From all this we may, I think, infer that we have here a district that will give 1,000 claim of 500 feet in length each. Now, 1,000 such claims will require at least 3,000 men to work them properly, and as wages for working in the mines are from $8 to $10 per day, without board, we have every reason to assume that this part of our territory will in a year or two contain 10,000 souls at least, for the news has gone out to the coast and an unprecedented influx is expected next spring. And this is not all, for a large creek called Indian creek joins the Yukon about midway between Klondyke and Stewart river, and all along this creek good pay has been found. All that has stood in the way of working it heretofore has been the scarcity of provisions and the difficulty of getting them up there even when here. Indian creek is quite a large stream, and it is probable it will yield 500 or 600 claims. Farther south yet lies the head of several branches of Stewart river, on which some prospecting has been done this summer and good indications found, but the want of provisions prevented development. Now gold has been found in several of the streams adjoining Pell}' river, and also along the Hootalinqua. In the line of these finds further south is the Cassiar gold field in British Columbia, so that the presumption is that we have in our territory along the easterly watershed of the Yukon a gold bearing belt of indefinite width and upwards of three hundred miles long, exclusive of the British Columbia part of it. On the easterly side of the Y'ukon prospecting has been done on a creek a short distance above Selkirk with a fair amount of success, and on a large creek some 30 or 40 miles be- low Selkirk fair prospects have been found, but as before remarked the difficulty of getting supplies here prevents any extended prospecting. Dalton informed me he has found good prospects on a small creek nearly midway between the coast range and Selkirk on his route. His man showed nie some coarse gold, about a dollar's worth, he found on the head of a branch of the A.etsek river, near the head of Chilkat Inlet, which is of course inside the summit of the coast range and of course in our territory. From this you will gather that we have a very large area all more or less gold bearing and will all yet be worked. Good quartz has been found in place just across the line on Davis creek (see my map of the 41st sent you), but of what extent is unknown, as it is in the bed of the creek and covered with gravel. Good quartz is also reported on the hills around Bonanza creek, but of this I will be able to speak more fully after my proposed survey. It is pretty certain from in- formation I have got from prospectors, that all or nearly all of the north- erly branch of White river is on our side of the line, and copper is found on it, but more abundantly on the southerly branch of which a great deal of it GUIDE TO THE YUKON 81 is in our territory also, so it is probable we have that metal too. I have seen here several lumps of native copper 1)rought by the natives from White river, but just from what part is uncertain. I have also seen a specimen of silver ore said to have been picked up in a creek flowing into Bennett Lake, about 14 miles down it on the east side. Before closing I may say that every report that comes in from Bonanza creek is more encouraging than the last. Prospecting has only begun, and up to the date of mailing, November 22d, very rich prospects have been found on the few claims prospected on. From one dollar to the pan of dirt up to $12 are reported and no bedrock found yet. This means from $1,000 to |i 2,000 per day per man sluicing. The excitement is intense, but at this season of the year it is naturally very local. Writing on December 9, 1896, Mr. Ogilvie said: Since my last the prospects on Bonanza creek and tributaries are in- creasing in richness and extent, until now it is certain that millions will be taken out of the" district in the next few years. On some of the claims prospected the pay dirt is of great extent and very rich. One man told me yesterday that he washed out a single pan of dirt on one of the claims on Bonanza and found $14.25 in it. Of course that may be an exceptionally rich pan, but $5 to $7 per pan is the average on that claim, it is reported, with five feet pay dirt and the width yet undertermined, but is known to be thirty feet; even at that figure, the result at nine or ten pans to the cubic foot and five hundred feet long is nearly $4,000,000 at $5 per pan. One-fourth of this would be enormous. Another claim has been prospected to such an extent that it is known there is about five feet pay dirt, averaging $2 per pan, and not less than thirty feet. Enough prospecting has been done to show that there are at least fifteen miles of this extraordinary richness, and the indications are that we will have three or four times that extent, if not all equal to the above, at least very rich. On January 11, 1897, he wrote: The reports from the Klondyke region are still very encouraging; so much so that all the other creeks around are practically abandoned, especi- ally those on the head of Forty-Mile, in American territory, and nearly one hundred men have made their way up from Circle City, hauling their sleds themselves many of them. Those who cannot get their claims are buying in on those already located. Men cannot be got to work for love or money, and development is consequently slow. One and a half dollars per hour is the wages paid the few men who have to work for hire and work as many hours as they like. Some of the claims are so rich that every night a few pans of dirt suffices to pay the hired help when there is any. As high as $204 has been reported to a single pan, but this is not generally credited. Claim owners are now very reticent about what they get, so you can hardly credit anything you hear; but one thing is certain, we have one of the richest mining areas ever found, with a fair prospect that we have not yet discovered its limits. 82 GUIDE TO THE^YUKON Miller and Glacier creeks, on the head of Sixt)--Mile river, which my survey of the 141st meridian determined to be in Canada, were thought to be very rich, but they are poor both in quality and quantity compared with Klondyke. Chicken creek, at the head of Forty-Mile, in Alaska, discov- ered a year ago, and rated very high, is to-day practically abandoned. January 21, 1897. — There are applications in for about 380 acres of land on the flat north of the Klondyke, on the east side of the Yukon, while all the extent of land available for use on it is about 200 acres. Joseph Leduc, who applied for 160, has only about no available for use in building on, the rest being steep hill-side, and the most of the flat is a moss-covered swamp. He had laid out and disposed of a few lots for building on in it, making his streets only 50 feet wide, and the main streets along the river even less, the builders going often close to the bank for convenience in getting water; but I stopped all that, and have the river front at least 66 feet wide, in most places much more. All streets parallel to the river are 66 feet, and all at right angles to those I have left at 50, as Laduc had them. It seems to me that 50 feet is wide enough in this country, as it is hardly likely there will be much heavy traffic on them. Had I made the streets running from the river 66 feet wide it would have put a good man}' people to much inconvenience. I will send out by the next mail a sketch showing the position of all the applications so far. The American government has given a contract for four mails this winter to Circle City, at $1,700 each mail, in and out. The mail carriers will take out letters at $1 each. January 22, 1897. — A quartz lode showing free gold in paying quantities has been located on one of the creeks, but I cannot yet send particulars. I am confident, from the nature of the gold found in the creeks, that many more of them, and rich, too, will be found. January 23d. — I have just heard from a reliable source that the quartz mentioned above is rich, as it tested over fioo to the ton. The lode ap- pears to run from three to eight feet in thickness and is about nineteen miles from the Yukon river. I will likely be called on to survey it and will be able to report fully. Placer prospects continue more and more encouraging and extraordi- nary. It is beyond doubt that three pans of different claims on Eldorado turned out $204, $212 and $216, but it must be borne in mind that there were only three such pans, though there are many running from $10 to 150. I have just received a petition from the miners to attend to the survey of their claims, they doing all the work and boarding and lodging me. I will begin at it in about ten days, and it will likely take me upwards of two months. I am glad to have the opportunity of doing it, for I think I can considerably, if not altogether, straighten out the tangle there is there. George M. Dawson, C. M. G., de.scribes the Canadian Yukon as bounded to the south by the northern limit of the province of British Columbia (lat. 60°), to the west by the eastern line of the United States territory of Alaska; to the east by the Rocky Mountain ranges and the 136th meridian; GITIDK TO THP: YUKON 83 and to the north by the Arctic ocean. The district, as above defined, has .a total area of approximately 192,000 square miles, of which, according to the most recent information, 150,768 square miles is included in the water- shed of the Yukon. "The superficial extent of the district may perhaps be best realized when it is realized when it is stated that it is nearly equal to that of France, greater than the United Kingdom by 71,000 miles, ten times the area of the province of Nova Scotia, and nearly three times that of the New England states." Whether or not the whole of this vast area is auriferous cannot now be said, but there is reasen to hope that in all parts of it paying deposits of gold and silver may be found. Sufficient is already known, although only a very small part of the district has been prospected, to rank the Yukon as among the greatest placer gold fields that have ever been discovered. Gold was first discovered in the Yukon basin in 1881, when a party went up the Big Salmon river, a tributary of the Lewis, for a distance of two hundred miles and found gold on all its bars, many of them paying very well. During the next few years some mining was done on the Hoot- alinqua, which flows out of Teslin lake and into the Y'ukon. In 1886 gold was dug out of the Cassiar bar on the Stewart river in considerable quantities. Since then gold has been found on Forty Mile creek. Sixty Mile creek, Miller creek. Glacier creek, Birch creek, and last, but by no means least, the creeks tributary to the Klondyke. Forty Mile creek is for the most part in Alaska, that is in United States territory; the head waters of Sixty Mile creek are also in Alaska. Miller, Glacier and Birch creeks were once thought to be in Alaska, but are now known to be in Canada, and Stewart river and the wonderfully rich Klon- dyke are wholly in Canadian territory. The latter flow into the Yukon from the eastward, and the whole of the Lewis, Big Salmon and Hootalin- qua rivers are in Canada. The Klondyke enters the Yukon near the 64th parallel of north lat- itude. As yet no paying deposits of gold have been found in the main river itself, the rich placers, which have excited attention all over the world, being upon its tributaries which enter it from the south. THE LATEST ROUTES. Still another route is from the head of Taku inlet, a little south of Ju- neau, thence overland by the valley of the Taku river to Lake Teslin. The distance to Lake Teslin by this route is approximately the same as via the Stickeen river. To Klondyke, might be somewhat shorter, according to the point at which the trail will strike the lake. THE WHITE PASS OPENED UP. The White Pass route starts from Skagway bay, which is five miles below Dyea, the head of Lynn canal. The bay is a fine natural harbor with good anchorage for vessels of any size. The largest ocean vessels can steam directly into this bay. From the harbor the trail follows the Skag- way river to its head, which is near the summit of the pass, a distance of 84 GUIDE TO THK YUKON i6 miles. The first four miles are in the bed of the river and the ascent is gradual. At four miles the canyon is reached, and here the route becomes, more difficult. For seven miles the trail works its way along the mountain side, rising steadily for almost the entire distance. This is the only hard part of the route. The next three miles is a gentle rise, and they carry the trail to the summit, an elevation of 2,600 feet above the sea level. The country here broadens out into a valley five miles wide, having a gentle slope to the east. In the twenty miles between the summit and Windy Arm, on Tagish lake, the total descent is onlj' 340 feet. From the summit valleys also extend to Lindeman lake and Taku arm on Tagish lake. At this date, July 20th, the trail has been cut through to the summit, and work is steadily in progress eastward. A trail has been blazed through to Taku Arm on Tagish lake, and can be used for pack animals now. In fact, several trains are preparing to start over the trail, and a large con- signment of horses has been sent up to be put on the regular transportation business over this route, which is now open for business. The final location of the trail from the summit to the lake has not l)een decided upon, as the company making it are seeking for the easiest route, but the country being open and comparatively level, after the summit has been passed, the lack of a graded trail will not be a serious impediment. A liberal allowance of time would be two days for a pack train from Skagway bay to Tagish lake, of which not more than six or eight hours would be needed to reach the summit from salt water. Skagway Bay and the trail as far as the Summit are in territory over which the United States Government now exercises jurisdiction, but the final ownership of which will depend upon the delimitation of the boundry. Beyoqd the Summit the trail is all in Canadian territory. For winter travel the trail is the most available. The average snowfall on the Summit is not more than four feet, and the company expect to be able to keep the route open to the lake all winter and maintain a freight train of sleighs on the river, so that at any season of the year they can carry goods and passengers from Skagway Bay as far north as Dawson City, at the mouth of the Klondyke THE CHILKOOT ROUTE. The Chilkoot route starts from Dyea or Ty-a, at the extreme northern end of Chilkoot branch of Lynn Canal. There is a trading post here. Dyea is accessible to large ocean going steamers. Like Skagway Bay it is in ter- ritory over which the United States at present exercises jurisdiction. For six miles from Dyea the route lies up a river valley, the stream be- ing navigable for canoes in the summer. The canyon is then reached, and here begins a sharp ascent to Sheep Camp. Ffom Sheep Camp the trail extends for eight miles up the rugged sides of the mountain, and is im- passable for horses. From the summit to Lake Lindeman, nine miles, there is an easy descent, that is easily traversed when the snow is on the ground, but is very rough in the summer season. The total distance from Dyea to Lake Lindeman is twenty-seven miles. The lake is five miles GUIDR TO THE YUKON 85 wide, and at its foot a short portage is necessary. Lake Bennett is reached at about a mile, and is twenty-four miles long. From this point the route is bj- water down the Lewis river, being the same as that at present taken from Tagish lake by the British Yukon Company's route. THE STICKEEN ROUTE. The Stickeeu route, when opened, will have the advantage of being wholly in British territory, for although the mouth of the river is in United States territory, British subjects have the same right to navigate it as American citizens. Goods and passengers intended for this route would have to be transshipped from ocean going steamers to river steamers at Fort Wrangel, or some other point near the mouth of the Stickeen. Of the river itself Dr. Dawson says: " It is navigable for stern-wheel steamers of light draft and good power to Glenora, 126 miles from Rothsay Point at its mouth, and under favorable circumstances to Telegraph creek, twelve miles farther. The current is swift, but there are no rapids properly so-called. Stern-wheel steamers for the navigation of the Stickeen should have good engine powder, and should not draw more than four feet of water when loaded. The river usually opens for navigation between April 20th and May 1st. The river generally freezes over before the end of November, although ice runs somewhat earlier. On the low lands there is good graz- ing for horses and cattle from April 20th to about December ist." The distance from the Stickeen at Telegraph creek to Teslin lake the source of the Hootalinqua river is about one hundred and fifty miles. The trail now in use is considerably longer than this, but exploratory surveys are in progress, and it is confidently believed that a nearly direct route will be found, over comparatively level country. A company has been incopo- rated to build a railway over this portion of the route. TraiSc going b}' way of Teslin lake would reach the main Yukon by way of Hootalinqua river, above referred to. OTHER ROUTES. The Taku route has not been opened, or even surveyed. A company has been incorporated to build a railway by it to Teslin lake. Taku inlet is an extensive harbor, somewhat open to southwest winds, but would serve very well for the terminus of a route into the interior. Other overland routes by which the Yukon can be reached are the Chilkat pass, the trail to which leaves tide water near the beginning of the Chilkoot and White pass routes. It is a difficult route and is not used; the Dalton trail, which starts from the same point and passes overland, a dis- tance approximately four hundred miles to the Y'ukon waters; and the route via Dease lake, the Frances and Pelly rivers. Both the latter are easy lines. Ultimately, if the development of the Yukon warrants, there will be no difficulty in finding an easy and all rail route from the head of some of the inlets in northern British Coluni1)ia. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 017 185 354 I i«^ ^^ KLONDYKE KLONDYKE ALASKA TAKE SHORT LINE^^^ LIBRARY CAR ROUTE ACROSS THE CONTINErMT MEALS IN DINING CARS A LA CARTE ^^J^ ROCK BALLAST NO DUST SHORTEST LINE ALL POINTS EAST TO PACIFIC COAST CONNECTING WITH STEAMERS FOR ALL POINTS IN ALASKA KLONDYKE GOLD FIELDS FOR INFORMATION, APPLY F. I. WHITNEY, G. P. & T. A. ST. PAUL, MINN. H LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 017 185 354 r