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 A 
 
 MANUAL 
 
 HAND LATHE: 
 
 COMPRISING 
 
 CONCISE DIRECTIONS 
 
 WORKING METALS OF ALL KINDS, IVORY, BONE AND PRECIOUS 
 
 WOODS; DYEING, COLORING, AND TRENCH POLISHING; 
 
 INLAYING BY VENEERS, AND VARIOUS METHODS 
 
 PRACTICED TO PRODUCE ELABORATE WORK 
 
 WITH DISPATCH, AND AT SMALL EXPENSE. 
 
 BY EGBERT P. WATSON, 
 
 LATE OF "the scientific AMERICAN," AUTHOR OF "THE MODERN PRACTICE OF 
 AMERICAN MACHINISTS AND ENGINEERS." 
 
 rLLUSTKATED BT SEVENTT-EIGHT ENeKAStlNGS. 
 
 .,:?r^u:-Fc^,;: 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: ] , 
 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD, INDUSTRIALPIJBLISpRr 
 
 406 WALNUT STREET. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 SAMPSON LOW, SON & MARSTON, 
 
 Crown Buildings, 188 Fleet St. 
 
 1869. 
 
Etitered according to Act oi Congress, in the year 1869, by 
 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 
 
 In the Clerk's Oflfice of the District Court of the United Statesj in and for 
 
 the Eastern District of Pennsylvania! 
 
TO MY DEAR SON", 
 
 EGBERT PERLET WATSON, 
 
 I DEDICATE 
 
 THIS LITTLE BOOK, 
 
 IN THE 
 
 HOPE THAT HE MAY BE A GOOD MAN, 
 
 AND A GOOD MECHANIC. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 I DID not write this little book with the 
 intention of apologizing to the prospective 
 reader, so soon as I had done so, but with 
 the honest, I hope not egotistical, feeling 
 that I had something to say that was not 
 generally known. We live to learn and to 
 impart what we know to others, and I have 
 taken this method of giving ray experience 
 in a pastime tliat is elevating, artistic in 
 every sense of the word, and a wholesome 
 relief from the cares of business. 
 
 In regard to the work itself, I can show 
 samples of every thing of any importance 
 described or given in it. I have not made 
 all of the patterns given in the back part, for 
 that is mere routine, but in gross, and in 
 most details, the book is the result of expe- 
 rience, and will be found reliable as far as 
 
 5 
 
6 PREFACE. 
 
 it goes. That it does not cover every pos- 
 sible change and use to which the lathe can 
 be put, I am well aware. 
 
 Something must be left for the workman 
 to find out himself. Neither have I given 
 any recipes for varnishes, for those cannot 
 be made by inexperienced persons. More- 
 over, they can be had so cheaply and uni- 
 versally, that it is mere folly for any ama- 
 teur to make them. 
 
 Saluting all persons who love the art of 
 which this little volume is descriptive, 
 I am their sincere friend, 
 
 EGBERT P. WATSON. 
 
 New York, April 15, 1869. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. PAGE 
 
 The Foot Lathe 13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Tools 22 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 So RAPERS, ETC 30 
 
 Chasing and Screw Cutting 33 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Chasers, etc 35 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Chucking 42 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Metal Spinning 51 
 
 CHAPTER YII. 
 Ornamental Cutting 59 
 
 To make a pair op Solitaire Sleeve Buttons.... 59 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 Centres 65 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 Fancy Turning 71 
 
 7 
 
8 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER X. PAGE 
 
 Ornamental Woods 77 
 
 Varieties 77 
 
 Snake Wood 78 
 
 Tulip Wood 79 
 
 g-ranadilla ...<,..«.... 80 
 
 Tamarind » .......* 80 
 
 Cam Wood 81 
 
 Box Wood 81 
 
 Laurel Eoot 82 
 
 White Holly 82 
 
 Ebony 82 
 
 Olive Wood 83 
 
 Sandal Wood • 8B 
 
 Rose Wood 84 
 
 Curled Maple 84 
 
 Birds' Eye Maple 84 
 
 Treatment « 85 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Wood Turning 87 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 
 Tools for Wood Turninu 90 
 
 CHAPTER XIIL 
 
 Tool Tempering, etc 92 
 
 CHAPTER XIY. 
 
 Artistic Wood Turning 96 
 
 CHAPTER XY. 
 
 Stamp Inlaying 102 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 Designs in Mosaic 106 
 
CONTENTS. 9 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. PAGE 
 
 Finishing the Outside 110 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Inlaying Continued 114 
 
 Gluing in Veneers 115 
 
 Ivory 116 
 
 Polishing 118 
 
 Dyeing Ivory 118 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Ornamental Designs for Inlaying 121 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 General Summary 125 
 
 Lacquers 126 
 
 Soldering 127 
 
 Varnishing and Polishing 129 
 
 Brushes 131 
 
 Pearl 131 
 
 Miscellaneous Tools 131 
 
 Curving Veneers 132 
 
 Cutting Miscellaneous Materials 133 
 
 Index 135 
 
MANUAL 
 OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE FOOT LATHE. 
 
 There are two distinct kinds of work done in 
 foot lathes — the useful and the merely ornamental. 
 Both afford enjoyment and profit to those who 
 practise them. The mechanic who earns his 
 living by working ten hours a day in a workshop, 
 does not care to go home and pursue the same 
 calling in the evening ; but he can institute an 
 agreeable change in his life, beautify his dwelling, 
 and cultivate his taste, by the use of the lathe, and 
 thus obtain ornaments that would cost large sums 
 if purchased at the stores; or he may, indeed, 
 make the lathe a source of revenue, and sell the 
 product of his skill and ingenuity at high prices 
 to those who admire, but have not the ability to 
 construct. 
 
 To many mechanics, even, the lathe is merely a 
 machine for turning cylinders or disks, or exe- 
 2 13 
 
14 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 cuting beads, ogees, scrolls, or curves of various 
 radii, so that, after all, the work is pretty much 
 alike, and ceases to be attractive. This is quite a 
 mistaken view. There are no such goods in mar- 
 ket as those made on lathes, and peculiar tools 
 used in connection with them — by lathes with 
 traversing mandrels, with geometric chucks, with 
 dome chucks, and compound slide rests. There 
 are lathes that, while one could chase up a five- 
 eight bolt in them as well as on the simple pulley 
 and treadle machine, are also capable of executing 
 all sorts of beautiful things — vases with bases 
 nearly square, or exactly square, with round tops 
 and hexagonal bodies, with gracefully-curved an- 
 gular sides and bases, fluted vertically; boxes 
 with curious patterns, resembling basket work ; 
 in fact, any combination of straight and curved 
 lines, cut in the sides, it is possible for an inge- 
 nious man to invent. Strictly speaking, these are 
 not lathes, for in order to do the things before 
 mentioned it is necessary to use after attachments 
 in connection with them, so that the combination 
 of them produces the results spoken of. There is, 
 absolutely, an unlimited field for the genius of 
 workmen to exert itself in designing patterns and 
 executing work of an ornamental character. 
 
 All ornamental work resolves itself into move- 
 ments of three kinds — angular, circular and 
 
THE FOOT LATHE. 15 
 
 straight. From the combination of these with 
 each other, the times where they merge and 
 emerge, where a movement of one kind changes 
 into any other, where an ellipse becomes part of a 
 circle, where circles are generated across the cir- 
 cumferences of other circles, where these patterns 
 are drawn over and upon each other without de- 
 stroying the character of either — we say, by such 
 movements, and many others which it would be 
 confusing to follow, the most beautiful forms are 
 made. 
 
 Or, if the taste of the workman runs upon me- 
 chanical instead of artistic things, there are steam 
 engines to be made, steam boilers to be spun up, 
 of small size ; in fact, any piece or machine that 
 can be thought of. 
 
 It is almost unnecessary to specify the innu- 
 merable kinds of work that can be done in a hand 
 lathe, but the amateur who delights in metal turn- 
 ing may make trinkets of all kinds for his friends, 
 that shall vie in beauty with the best efforts of 
 the jeweler and goldsmith. This, of course, is de- 
 pendent on the material used, the taste of the 
 workman, and his originality of conception. Pins 
 for ladies' wear can be made of boxwood and 
 ebony, glued together in sections, of all designs, 
 and afterwards turned in beads and mouldings, or 
 otherwise ornamented in a chuck, as will be 
 
16 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 shown hereafter. Sleeve buttons can be made of 
 ebony and silver, ivory and silver, pearl and gold, 
 or any combination that is desired. Chess and 
 checker men also afford a chance to display skill. 
 And, besides these, special work of any nature is 
 within the capacity of the machine. 
 
 There is no family in this country that would 
 not find it economy to have a foot lathe in the 
 house, where the members have mechanical tastes 
 — not necessarily the male members, for ladies use 
 foot lathes, in Europe, with the greatest dexterity. 
 Some of the most beautiful work ever made, was 
 by Miss Holtzapfel, a relative of the celebrated 
 mechanist of the same name. If there are shovels 
 to be mended, the lathe will drill the holes and 
 turn the rivets. If the handle of the saucepan is 
 loose, it will do the same. If scissors or knives 
 want grinding, there is the lathe ; if the castors on 
 the sofa break down, there is the lathe ; if skates 
 need repairs, either of grinding or of any other 
 kind, there is the lathe. In short, it ought to be 
 as much a part of domestic economy as the sew- 
 ing machine, for it takes the odd stitches in the 
 mechanical department that save money. 
 
 Let not the inexperienced reader, who hears of 
 a lathe for the first time, be frightened at this ar- 
 ray of terms, or diverted from the use of it by 
 the recital. In its simple form, as shown in Fig. 1, 
 
THE FOOT LATHE. 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 17 
 
 it is readily understood, and, after a little prac- 
 tice, easily managed by any one, and, after the first 
 few weeks, the amateur will realize the fruits of 
 his application. 
 
 2* 
 
18 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 At first, it had not even a continuous rotary 
 motion, but the spindle was driven by a belt 
 worked by a spring pole or its equivalent. The 
 belt was rolled round the spindle, and the pole 
 allowed to spring up ; the spindle then revolved 
 the lofigth of the belt, or rope, for belts were not 
 thought of, and the operation was repeated, the 
 work being done only when the force of the spring 
 pole revolved the spindle and the job the right 
 way. 
 
 Foot lathes had, prior to the introduction of 
 the engine lathe, been used on very heavy work. 
 It is but a few years, comparatively speaking — 
 not twenty — since cast-iron shafts, six, eight, and 
 ten inches in diameter, were turned in such lathes. 
 For all that we know to the contrary, many jobs, 
 far exceeding this in size, have been thus exe- 
 cuted. 
 
 In some shops, there are still standing heavy 
 oaken shears, made of timber twenty inches deep, 
 and four or six inches wide, faced with boiler 
 iron, and in the racks above there are long- 
 shanked tools, with which the men of old were 
 wont to do the work. 
 
 These lathes are never used now, except for 
 drilling holes, or for apprentiiaes to practice on, 
 but they serve to show what machinists had to do 
 in olden times, when there were no vise benches 
 
THE FOOT LATHE. 19 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 to sit on and watch the chips curling off the tool, 
 as men do now. 
 
 Hand lathes are not in great favor in large ma- 
 chine shops. They are not used, or should not be, 
 for any purpose except drilling, and then they are 
 no longer hand lathes, but horizontal drilling ma- 
 chines. There is no simple work to be done on a 
 hand lathe that could not be performed to better 
 advantage and more cheaply on a machine con- 
 structed for the purpose. 
 
 Some large machine shops keep a hand lathe 
 going continually, cutting off stud bolts, facing 
 and rounding up nuts, and similar work. This 
 does not seem profitable. A machine to do this 
 work would do more, of a better quality, than 
 hand labor could. 
 
 The foot lathe — the terms hand and foot lathe 
 are synonymous — is generally used, at the present 
 time, by small machinists, manufacturers of gas 
 fixtures, amateurs, etc. ; men who do not work a 
 
20 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 lathe constantly, but are called off to braze or 
 solder, or, perhaps, to fit some detail with a file. 
 For these uses the foot lathe is one of the cheap- 
 est of tools ; for the same person that does the work 
 furnishes the power also, so that a man working 
 on a foot, or hand lathe, as it is often called, 
 ought to have first-class wages. Moreover, a first- 
 rate foot lathe turner is always a good mechanic, 
 for it takes no small degree of dexterity to per- 
 form the several jobs with ease, and dispatch, and 
 certainty. To always get hold of the right tool, 
 to use the same properly, so that it will last a 
 reasonable time without being ground or tem- 
 pered, to rough-turn hollow places with a square 
 edge, to chase a true thread to the right size every 
 time, without making a drunken one, or a slant- 
 ing one, to make a true thread inside of an oil 
 cup or a box — all these several tasks require good 
 judgment, dexterity, and a steady hand. Of 
 course, where a slide-rest is used, the case is dif- 
 ferent. "We allude, specially, to a cutting tool 
 managed by the hand. 
 
 To do all these things, however, it is necessary 
 to have tools, and good ones, or none. It is an 
 old saying, that a bad workman quarrels with his 
 tools, but a good workman has a right to quarrel 
 with bad tools, if he is furnished with them, 
 through chance or design. It is impossible to ex- 
 
THE FOOT LATHE. 21 
 
 cute good work with a dull tool, one badly 
 shaped, or unsuited to the purpose, and, therefore, 
 it is important to set out right at the beginning. 
 
 There is no tool more efficient in the hands of a 
 good^workman, than the diamond point. Fig. 2, 
 here shown. For roughing off a piece of metal, 
 for squaring up the end, for facing a piece held in 
 the chuck, for running out a curve, or rounding 
 up a globe, it is equally well adapted. It may be 
 truly called the turner's friend. 
 
22 MANUAI^ OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER IL 
 
 TOOLS. 
 
 Any one who has watched a novice at work on 
 a lathe, must have remarked the difficulty he has in 
 controlling the tool and keeping up the motion ot 
 the treadle at the same time. The two operations 
 are difficult to " get the hang of," to use a homely 
 phrase ; but once conquered, the work can proceed. 
 The natural tendency is to slack up or stop the 
 motion of the treadle while the tool is engaged, 
 and the tool is, therefore, at one time under the 
 work, at another time above it, at another jumping 
 rankly in, until, finally, the piece goes whirling out 
 of the center or the chuck, and the operator flushes 
 all over at his awkwardness. 
 
 This, of course, is remedied by practice ; aud as 
 this work is written mainly for the information of 
 beginners and amateurs, we hope that experts and 
 those who know all about hand lathes, will excuse 
 allusion to such simple things as holding the tool 
 properly, and kindred matters. 
 
 The lathe must be of such a height as the work- 
 man finds convenient, so that he is not obliged to 
 
TOOLS, 23 
 
 stoop much, and, at tlie same time, low enough to 
 allow the weight of the body to be thrown on the 
 tool when hard work is to be done. The speed of 
 the lathe ought to be very high on the smallest 
 cone, and there should be three speeds, at least, 
 for different work. The object is to regulate the 
 velocity of the work in the lathe, and keep the 
 motion of the treadle uniform, as near as may be, 
 at all times. It distresses a workman greatly, 
 when chasing a fine thread on a small diameter, if 
 he has to tread fast to get up the proper speed, as 
 he does when there are only two speeds. On the 
 contrary, for larger jobs, it is dijSicult to keep up 
 a rotary motion if the foot moves slowly, as it 
 must in order not to burn the tool by a high ve- 
 locity on some kinds of work. Foot lathes, in 
 general, are not geared, although some are, and 
 ought to have wider ranges of speed than they do. 
 Where one class of work is done, however, it 
 makes little difference, but for general turning, 
 the speeds should vary. 
 
 Another difficulty experienced by beginners is 
 in holding the tool still — rigidly so. They allow 
 it to " bob " back and forth against the work, if it 
 runs untrue, so that it is impossible to make a job. 
 The tool must be held hard down, as if it grew to 
 the rest, and never moved, nor receded, until the 
 cut besun is finished. 
 
24 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 The "rest" should be of soft, wrought iron, 
 since that material holds a tool with more tenaci- 
 ty ; imposing less strain on the arms of the opera- 
 tor. It should be dressed off smooth as often as 
 it gets badly worn, or cut by indentations. Cast 
 iron is not good, and steel is not so good as 
 wrought iron. A special rest should be kept for 
 chasing threads with, since the least obstacle is 
 enough, when running up a fine thread, to divert 
 the chaser and spoil the job, by making a drunken 
 thread. If we now suppose the lathe to be in 
 good order, the centers true and well-turned to a 
 gauge, the rod (if that is the job) between them and 
 properly " dogged," the centers oiled, and the 
 rest at the right height, we shall be all ready to 
 start. The rest should be high enough to bring 
 the point of the tool a little above the center. 
 
 To rough ofi" the outside, and make it run true, 
 is the first step, and the tool must, therefore, be 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 held as in Fig. 3, or so that the point and part of 
 the edge alone engage with the work. This will 
 
TOOLS. 25 
 
 take oflf a thin, spiral cut, without springing the 
 shaft or making it untrue. The whole surface of 
 the shaft must be thus run over, beginning at the 
 right hand and shifting the tool as fast as one part 
 is turned. The tool should not be moved rigidly 
 in a straight line toward the belt, but by holding 
 it hard down on the rest, so that the bottom edge 
 bears as m Fig. 2, and rocking the tool on that 
 angle, so that the point describes a curve, as in 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 4, the work will be turned evenly and true. 
 
 We must remark, in passing, that the person 
 who reads these directions, and then undertakes to 
 turn by them, will find that reading how to do a 
 thing, and doing it, are two different matters. 
 
 It looks very nice to see a skater darting over 
 the ice at his ease, but try it once, and, if you 
 never knew before, you will understand what ex- 
 perience means. Trying to teach a person to be a 
 turner, in a book, is analogous. One can only in- 
 dicate the general method, and leave experience to 
 do the rest. 
 3 
 
26 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 After tlie whole surface has been run over, the 
 same tool may be used on the flat side for reda- 
 cing the work to one diameter throughout the 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 length. The reader must not assume that there 
 is no other tool than a diamond point j he will 
 find many others adverted to, as we proceed. 
 
 It is most important that the ends of a rod or 
 shaft should be squared up first, before the body 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 is turned, for the removal of some slight inequal- 
 ity subsequently may cause the whole shaft to run 
 out of truth. The center must be drilled with a 
 
TOOLS, 
 
 27 
 
 Fig. 7. small drill, and slightly counter- 
 
 sunk. When the end is squared 
 up, the center must be run back 
 a little, so that the tool point 
 may project over the drilled, 
 hole, and thus make it all true 
 about the center, as in Fig. 5. 
 This will make the work push 
 over to one side of the center, 
 but that is of no consequence. 
 Let it run as it will ; so long; as 
 it does not come out of the cen- 
 ters there need be no apprehen- 
 sion. 
 
 Fig. 6, is another kind of 
 roughing tool, to do heavier 
 work with. 
 
 There are two kinds of tools 
 used in foot lathes, called 
 straight and heel tools. Fig. 7 
 is a heel tool. It is so called 
 from the heel which is forged on 
 the lower end. One form of the 
 straight tool has already been 
 shown. The heel tool is used on heavy work, 
 and the object of it is apparent, namely, to hold 
 on the rest, and so impose but little labor on the 
 workman to retain it in place, or prevent it from 
 
28 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 receding. It is generally forged from half incli 
 or five eighth steel. The steel is held in a handle 
 twenty inches long, grooved on top to fit the steel, 
 and furnished with a handle at right angles. This 
 handle has a square eye in the top that the tool 
 passes through. A nut at the end of it screws up 
 the eye and binds the tool fast in the groove, so 
 that it cannot slip. 
 
 It is given complete in Fig. 7. The lower han- 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 die enables the workman to have great power 
 over the edge, and to direct it from or to the 
 
TOOLS. 29 
 
 work without clanger of catching. The tool is 
 •used by resting the end on the shoulder, as in Fig. 
 8, and turning the lowest handle. Since the heel 
 holds the tool from slipping, there is no occasion 
 to bear against it. In fact, there is no occasion, at 
 any time, to force the tool from the workman, but 
 it must be turned sideways, back and forth. A 
 piece, properly centered, may be cut in any way 
 without destroying its truth. 
 
 3* 
 
30 
 
 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SCEAPERS, ETC. 
 
 To suit different kinds of work, as previously 
 stated, various tools are needed, but the reader 
 must not expect to see them all illustrated in this 
 book. The workman will learn what tools he 
 needs, and make them for himself, which will be 
 of more advantage to him than engravings could 
 be. The tools here shown, will be found very 
 useful in different places. 
 Fig. 9. Fig. 9 is the end of a thin-edged, flat 
 scraper, and is chiefly to be used on 
 brass work. It may be of any length 
 and size, but for small lathes, and light 
 work, it is cheaper and handier to make 
 it of thin sheet steel, one eighth or one 
 tenth of an inch thick, and to form the 
 reverse end into a round nose, or half-circle 
 scraper. 
 
 It often happens that fillets or hollows occur, as 
 in finishing ornamental brass work, in connection 
 with flat surfaces. By having such a tool as this, 
 the necessity of laying one tool down and picking 
 
 i|||i 
 
SCRAPERS, ETC. 
 
 31 
 
 up another, is- obviated, for the two are combined 
 in one. For iron work, it is customary to use a 
 heavier and thicker tool for finishing. As in Fig. 
 Fig. 10. 10, the front edge is 
 
 slightly raised or con- 
 cave, to make it sharp 
 and hold a cut well. All 
 turning tools for finish- 
 ing iron are made thick- 
 er than those for brass, 
 and should have lips, or curved cutting edges. 
 Such tools cannot be used for brass, as they are 
 too sharp ; the edges jump into the metal and 
 spoil the work. 
 
 A tool for scraping brass work of some kinds is 
 made as shown in Figs. 11 and 12. 
 
 Fig. 11. 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 There is no occasion to make the ends at dif- 
 ferent angles, except the convenience, before 
 stated, of having four cutting edges on one piece, 
 for any angle can be easily given by the position 
 
32 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 of the hand or the direction of the rest. These 
 tools, here alluded to, are only to be used when the 
 job has been all turned true and the scale removed ; 
 thej scrape, merely, they do not cut. 
 
 Such tools sometimes save a few steps at a critical 
 period; that is, when the tool is well set and in place, 
 so that the work is done better and more expe- 
 ditiously. Apart from this consideration, there 
 is the chance of cutting or injuring the hands, by 
 the proximity of sharp edges. Under the control 
 of an expert, however, there is little danger from 
 this cause, as inspection will show. Skilful men 
 that have worked a lifetime at their trade, have 
 few marks or scars on their hands, as a general 
 thing. 
 
 When these scrapers are used on cast iron, or 
 indeed, on brass of a peculiar composition, they 
 sometimes " chatter," as it is called, and leave the 
 work full of deep, unsightly marks, like those on 
 the edge of coins. The cause of chattering is the 
 rapid vibration of the tool, so that it springs away 
 from, and against the work, with great rapidity, 
 leaving traces of its edge on the work. Chatter- 
 ing may be prevented, by putting a piece of sole 
 leather on the rest, between it and the tool. 
 
 The tools with long handles are chiefly intended 
 for heavy work, or that which requires both 
 hands to the cut, but there are smaller tools than 
 
SCRAPERS, ETC. 
 
 33 
 
 these, used bj amateurs, wherein the common 
 tile handle, or one like it, only a little longer, is 
 employed instead. 
 
 CHASIJSTG AND SCREW CUTTING. 
 In an engine, or power lathe, all screws are cut 
 by trains of gears, as mechanics well know, but 
 in the hand lathe, which was the first machine, 
 screws, both male and female, must be made by 
 chasers or hubs, both inside and outside. The 
 chaser itself must be made first, however, and 
 that is done by a simple tool called " a hub." 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 The chaser is first forged in blank, for an out- 
 Fig. 14. Fiff. 15. 
 
 side chaser, as in Fig. 14, and as in Fig. 15 for an 
 
34 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE, 
 
 inside tool. It is then filed up, and held against 
 a hub, shown in Fig., 13, running in the lathe. 
 This rapidly cuts away the chaser blank, and 
 forms the teeth in it perfectly. The lines across 
 it are spiral grooves, cut completely round from 
 one side to the other, so that the hub cuts the 
 blank like any other tool. Fig. 16 represents 
 the chaser. 
 
 Fiff. 16. 
 
CHASERS, ETC. .35 
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 CHASERS, ETC, 
 
 It is not always an easy task to chase a true 
 thread on a piece of work, and even " the boldest 
 holds his breath for a time," if he has a nice piece 
 of work all done but the thread, and that in a 
 critical part. It is so easy to make a drunken 
 thread, or one in which the spirals are not true, 
 but diverge or waver in their path around the 
 shaft, that many are made. That they are more 
 common than true threads, is well known to me- 
 chanics. To start a thread true is quite easy with 
 an inside chaser ; for, strange as it may seem, it is 
 seldom that a drunken thread is made on inside 
 work ; only have the bore itself true, and the 
 chaser will run in properly. The case is different 
 when a bolt or shaft is to be cut. With fine 
 threads, the slightest obstruction on the rest will 
 cause the chaser to catch and stop slightly. No 
 matter how slight the stoppage, it is certain to 
 damage the thread. The injury is more percepti- 
 ble on fine threads than on coarse, for, in the 
 former, if the threads do not fit (as they will not 
 
36 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 if they are drunken, one crossing the other, when 
 both parts are put together), the drunken thread 
 will not come fair with the other. In coarse 
 threads, however, it will not be so apparent, for, 
 by making the drunken thread smaller, it wdll 
 have play and accommodate itself to its place. This 
 is not workmanship, it is " make-shift." 
 
 To chase a true thread the rest must be smooth 
 and free from burrs or depressions. Nice work- 
 men keep a special rest, with a hard, polished 
 steel edge, expressly for this purpose. 
 
 If the chasers themselves are smoothly finished 
 at the bottom, on an emery wheel, they are all 
 the better. With these precautions^ and others 
 noted below, success is certain. When a thread 
 is to be started, take a fine diamond-pointed tool, 
 and hold it on the end of the shaft to be chased. 
 Set the lathe going, and give the tool a quick 
 twist with the wrist, so that a spiral will be traced 
 on the work, like Fig. 17^ 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 Some part of this will correspond with the 
 pitch of the thread to be cut, and there is less 
 liability of making it drunken. By a little prac- 
 
CHASERS, ETC. 
 
 37 
 
 tice, one is able to hit the pitch of the chaser ex- 
 actly in making a start. 
 
 " There is no trouble, after you once know 
 how." We have chased quantities of small 
 screws, with forty-eight threads to the inch, and 
 not a sixteenth of one inch in diameter. If the 
 chaser once hesitates on such screws, they are 
 spoiled. For heavy threads^seven and eight to 
 the inch, which is about as hard work as any one 
 wants to do, — it is the custom of some turners to 
 use a tool with only two teeth, and some nse only 
 a sharp-edged cutter, like Fig. 18, to deepen the 
 
 Fiff. 18. 
 
 thread, the chaser being used afterward, to recti- 
 fy the job. There is danger with this tool, unless 
 it is used by an expert, of digging out the thread, 
 'SO that the last end of it will be worse than the 
 ifirst. 
 
 Another tool, used in chasing heavy threads, is 
 
 •a doctor. This consists in having a fac-simile of 
 
 the thread to be cut on the back of the chaser, 
 
 and in applying a short set screw behind, so that, 
 
 4 
 
38 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 as the iron is cut awaj, the chaser may be fol- 
 lowed up behind. Fig. 19 is the doctor, but the 
 follower opposite the chaser is too narrow, and 
 should be made nearly half a circle to avoid slip- 
 ping ; with this exception it is all right. 
 
 These tools, and the screws made by them, are 
 all inferior to those made by lathes with tra- 
 versing mandrels ; that is, a mandrel which slides 
 in and out of the head stock, as in a Holtzapflel 
 lathe. 
 
 This lathe has a series of hubs, unlike the one 
 shown previously, slipped over the back end of the 
 
 Fiff. 19. 
 
 lathe spindle (furthest from the workman) and a 
 fixed nut on the head-stock, which, being put in 
 
CHASERS, ETC. 39 
 
 communication with the hub on the mandrel, 
 drives the same in and out, according to the direc- 
 tion the cone-pulleys are turned. Of course, with 
 such an attachment as this, there is no danger of 
 making drunken threads, for the hubs which 
 start the threads, are cut with a train of gears in 
 an engine lathe, so that it is impossible for tliem 
 to be incorrect. Moreover, a square thread, or a 
 V-shaped thread, can be made with them, which 
 is not the case witli common chasers. 
 
 In lathes that have traversing mandrels to cut 
 screws, the tool itself remains stationary, but as 
 this is obviously a disadvantage in many kinds of 
 work, it is far better to have the tool advance and 
 the mandrel revolve as usual. By this plan much 
 time is saved, a greater range of work is possible 
 with the same gear, and a piece that is chucked, 
 or one that is between the centers, can be cut with 
 equal facilit}''. 
 
 Any common lathe can be rigged to do this by 
 putting a shell on the back end of the mandrel, 
 between the pulley and the set screw, and slipping 
 the hub over the shell, with a feather, to keep it 
 from turning. To take a thread from this hub, 
 a round bar must be set parallel with, the shears, 
 in easy- working guides. The bar must have an 
 arm at one end, to reacli over to the hub, said arm 
 to be fitted witli a piece of hard wood, to match 
 
40 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 tbe thread on the hub. The other end of the bar 
 has the cuttiug tool in it ; of coarse, at right an- 
 gles, so as to run in to the work, and bear on the 
 tool rest. The tool is held in an arm on the bar 
 by a set screw, so that it can be lengthened or 
 shortened. 
 
 By this arrangement, a true thread can be 
 rapidly generated on any rod, hollow cylinder, or 
 other kind of work — the pitch depending on the 
 pitch of the hub. 
 
 It is necessary to have as many different hubs, 
 varying in pitch, as there are different kinds of 
 work to be done, and, although the thread on the 
 hub is only an inch or half an inch long, perhaps, 
 a screw of any length may be cut on a rod, by 
 simply shifting the cutter on the rest. This same 
 bar is also useful for turning, as with a slide rest, 
 for, by sliding it along gradually, it acts, in a 
 measure, like a fixed tool in a slide rest. 
 
 Fig. 30. From these hints the 
 
 amateur who takes a lathe 
 in hand for the first time 
 or is, at best, a neophyte, 
 may learn much to his 
 advantage. Persons of a 
 mechanical turn only need 
 a hint, when the mind springs to the conclusion 
 with surprising rapidity. 
 
CHASERS, ETC. 41 
 
 The little tool, shown in Fig. 20, is verj handy 
 in many instances, particularly for running under 
 the necks of screws when the thread is cut up to 
 the head. By so making them, the head comes 
 fair down upon its bed, and holds much better. 
 
 4* 
 
42 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 CHUCKING. 
 
 Chucking work in the lathe is one of the most 
 interesting branches, for here there are no centers 
 in the way, to plague the workman, and the tool 
 has a fair sweep at all parts. Every one who uses a 
 lathe, should get a scroll chuck, Fig. 21, of Cush- 
 Fiff. 21. 
 
 man's make, (A. Cushman, Hartford, Connecticut,) 
 that is, a chuck where the jaws move up together 
 toward the center, so that any round piece will be 
 held perfectly true. This is a great convenience, 
 
CHUCKING. 
 
 43 
 
 for whether we have a ring to bore out, or a 
 wheel to turn off, it is equally handy, and is far 
 better than the independent jaw chuck, which has 
 to be set up by mea- Fig 
 
 surement, and repeat- 
 ed trials before it is 
 right. To those who 
 cannot afford to pur- 
 chase a scroll chuck, 
 a wooden one can be 
 made to answer eve- 
 ry purpose. Wooden 
 chucks should be made 
 of some hard, fine-grained wood, such as maple or 
 mahogany, so that they will hold well whatever 
 is driven into them. 
 
 Fiff. 23. Fiff. 24. 
 
 If we have a small cylinder head to turn, for 
 instance, the back head, which has no hole in it 
 to put a mandrel through, as the front one has, 
 
44 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 the wooden chuck will come in play. To make 
 one, tlje turner takes a square block of the proper 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 thickness, say one inch, and saws the corners off, 
 so that it is eight-sided. It is then ready to screw 
 on the face plate of the lathe. This is quickly 
 done by having small screw holes in the plate for 
 this purpose, as shown in Fig. 1, page 17. 
 
 Fig. 26. The block is then all ready 
 
 to work on, and the face must 
 ' be turned off true, and a recess 
 
 cut out in it to receive the head. 
 
 This is the head, Fig. 26. 
 
 On the back side, there is a 
 
 projection to fit the cylinder of 
 the engine. This must be turned first, and the 
 flange faced off true: after that the head must be 
 pryed out, (by making a little recess in the chuck, 
 
CHUCKING. 
 
 45 
 
 alongside of it,) reversed, and put in the chuck again, 
 the finished side in, so as to polish it on the out- 
 side. Fig. 27. It must be driven up tight against 
 
 Fiff. 27. 
 
 the face of the chuck, otherwise the flange will be 
 thicker on one side than the other. In finishing, 
 it will be found better to commence near the cen- 
 ter, and work out toward the largest diameter, for 
 it is necessary to get under the scale, or sand, left 
 on in casting, first, before the work can be turned 
 true, and this is easiest done by beginning at the 
 middle, where the speed is low. The scale is 
 fused sand melted on the metal in the act of cast- 
 ing. The best tool to do this with is the diamond- 
 point, for it can be employed universally on 
 straight or hollow surfaces, is easily ground, and 
 always works well. After it, comes the scraper, 
 previously shown. It these chatter, a piece of 
 leather must be put between them and the rest. 
 It is also well to put a stout iron rod, or piece of 
 
46 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 hard wood, between the back center of the lathe 
 and the face of the plate ; this keeps everything 
 steady, as shown below, so that a beautiful luster 
 will be given by the tool alone. 
 
 After the plate or head is firmly scraped, it 
 must be polished with flour emery and oil. The 
 emery first used must be No. 1, which is about 
 like Indian meal ; if the work is brass, however, 
 this will not be needed. This must be plentifully 
 supplied with oil, so that it is like cream, and the 
 workman, taking a soft pine stick, with the end 
 pounded into a brush, so that it will hold emery, 
 holds it hard up against the face of the head. If 
 it has been properly scraped, a few revolutions 
 will produce a fine-grained finish, but if it is badly 
 done, the corners will be full of scratches and 
 chatters. It takes time and experience to make a 
 good finisher, and patience also, for men who are 
 good turners, and can make excellent fits, are 
 sometimes botches at polishing. 
 
 After emery of the finest possible description 
 has been used, a little rouge powder should be 
 put on a piece of buckskin and applied to the 
 work. This will make a polish equal to gold on 
 brass, and like silver on iron. Instead of these 
 methods many persons burnish their work. The 
 burnisher is sometimes made of steel, of blood- 
 stone, and of agate. Steel is the material general- 
 
CHUCKIXG. 47 
 
 ]y employed. It is polished as bright as can be 
 on a buff wheel, and must be preserved so, other- 
 wise it is useless to attempt doing anything with 
 it. Pumice stone is very good for polishing with, 
 or rather for finishing the surface before polishing. 
 Other substances will be mentioned hereafter. 
 Steel and iron are best polished with a sharp tool 
 and water. To turn steel with a handsome sur- 
 face, the tool must be sharpened on an oil stone, 
 and the speed high, then spit on the work and 
 take light cuts, and you will have a nice job. To 
 make a very brilliant polish on steel, it is neces- 
 sary to use emery and oil, plenty of oil and not 
 much emery, but this makes such a nasty mess on 
 the lathe, that few good turners will do it. A file 
 should not be used in the lathe if possible ; filing 
 a job makes it uneven, and spoils the looks of it. 
 It is difficult to avoid scratches, and the expert 
 can generally tell the difference between work 
 that has been turned true, and that which has been 
 filed, and, in nearly all cases, it is quicker to turn 
 the work to fit or to finish at once. 
 
 In polishing round work, such as rods or shafts, 
 it is much cleaner, and more expeditious, to make 
 a pair of clamps like Fig. 28, and put the emery 
 and oil on leather pads between them. The clamps 
 consist of two straight pieces of soft or hard wood, 
 lined with leather, though some use sheet lead. 
 
48 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 The leather catches the polishing material and 
 holds it, and, at the same time, keeps it continually 
 applied to the shaft. The clamps are slipped over 
 the same, and the ends held in the hand. This 
 utensil also gives a fine finish to the. work, making 
 it smooth and even. It must be carried regularly 
 alono- from end to end, sometimes fast and some- 
 times slow, so as to cross the lines, or avoid mak- 
 ing a twist in the polish like a screw thread, 
 which would otherwise be given. A very beau- 
 tiful and brilliant luster can be given to a shaft of 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
 iron or steel, after it is nicely finished, by hold- 
 ing a sheet of fine sand paper ^ covered with chalk, 
 on it. The glaze that this gives, makes the work 
 glisten like silver, but it also takes off all the 
 grease, so that the shaft is very sensitive to 
 moisture, and is quickly rusted. 
 
 This discussion about polishing has led us 
 away from the consideration of chucking, which 
 we shall enlarge a little more upon. 
 
CHUCKING. 49 
 
 The chuck is a very necessary and even indis- 
 pensable auxiliary when chasing. Threads can- 
 not be caught in the jaws of a scroll chuck, be- 
 cause, if set tight enough to hold the work, the 
 threads are jammed so that they will not run in 
 the part they were fitted to. If a piece, having a 
 thread cut on it, like Fig. 29, is to be turned out- 
 side, it is very easy to chase the j^jo. 29, 
 cap first and then the cup it fits, 
 so that the cap can be screwed 
 into it and turned off where it 
 belongs ; it will then be true, 
 and is easy to mill on the edge. 
 
 It must always be borne in 
 mind that the chaser must be sharp. If it is not, 
 drunken threads will be the rule, not the excep- 
 tion. 
 
 The chuck shown in Fig. 30, will be found 
 very useful for holding metallic disks, small 
 box covers, or anything that requires merely a 
 slight clasp; it is also useful for holding round 
 plugs, pencils of wood, or penholders, to drill in 
 the ends. It can be made eccentric with the 
 mandrel of the lathe, if desired, so as to turn a 
 piece on one side, or drill in a similar manner in 
 the end of a plug. It is merely a piece of box- 
 wood bored out, bored with holes, which are 
 sawed down into slots, so as to form a series of 
 5 
 
oO 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE, 
 
 jaws, wliicli are sprung in by sliding the ring 
 Fig. SO, 
 
 down on them. They are so easily mad^ that Sk 
 great many can be provided. 
 
METAL SPINNING. 5L 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 METAL SPINNING. 
 
 Spinning sheet metal into various forms is 
 another kind of work which can be done in the 
 foot lathe, and it is here that the amateur can 
 show his taste and dexterity. 
 
 The process consists in forming a blank, like 
 this engraving, into an ornamen- Fig. 31. 
 
 tal base for a lamp, or an oil cup ; 
 in fact, any thing whatsoever. 
 All that is requisite is to have a 
 fac simile, in wood, of the shape 
 you wish to make. This is bolt- 
 ed or otherwise made fast to the 
 face plate, and the blank is then set up against it^ 
 and held as the cylinder head, shown in Fig. 26, 
 is , that is, with a rod leading from the back cen- 
 ter of the lathe to the work. 
 
 A tool like Fig. 32 is then used to press the 
 metal into all the recesses or curves of the pat- 
 tern. The speed must be high, and the metal 
 quite soft and moistened with a little soap-suds or 
 oil, so that it will not be scratched by the tool. 
 
52 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 To spin metal requires some dexterity, but it is 
 easilj'' acquired after a little practice. The rest 
 must be furnished with holes, like Fig. 33, and a 
 Fig. 32. Fig. 33. 
 
 pin, so that the tool can be brought up against it 
 like a lever. 
 
 Still -another kind of metal spinning can be 
 done in the lathe. This relates to making circu- 
 lar shapes, or cylindrical, more properly — such as 
 napkin rings, the tops of steam pipes, or similar 
 Fig. 34. 
 
 things. To do this, a mandrel is requisite. The 
 mandrel must be of steel, and turned to the de- 
 sired pattern — like Fig. 34, for instance, 
 
 A ferrule is then made and soldered tos^ether 
 
METAL SPINNING. 53 
 
 with lapped edges, so that there will be no seam. 
 The mandrel must be as much smaller than the 
 size of the finished work as will allow it to come 
 off freely, for it will be apparent that if the work 
 was spun up on the mandrel, it could never be 
 taken off'.. The ferrule, when put on them, will 
 stand eccentric to the mandrel, as Fig. 35. 
 
 in this figure — that is, when the 
 tool bears on it. In other re- 
 spects the process is just the 
 same as spinning on the face 
 plate. Tripoli, chalk, whiting, 
 rotten -stone, and similar sub- 
 stances are used to give the fine polish on such 
 work. 
 
 We know of no prettier or more expeditions 
 process of making a small steam boiler for a toy 
 engine, than by spinning it upon the lathe. The 
 boiler will be very strong, have large fire surface, 
 and be without joints, having only one at the bot- 
 tom, where it is easily kept tight. Fig. 36 is the 
 boiler. 
 
 The metal must be thin (twenty gauge), the 
 sheet brass sold in the shops will answer, as it is 
 already annealed, and the corrugations must not 
 be too deep on the sides, or the work will not 
 come off" the mould. The center of the fire-box, 
 A, must be left fiat, so that the flue will have a 
 5* 
 
54 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 bearing on it. For a small engine, 1-inch bore, 
 and 2-iuch stroke, a boiler of the dimensions 
 given here is ample. The flue must be brazed or 
 soldered at A, and the bottom must be riveted at 
 B, for every two inches ; this is not necessary, 
 however. There are only three pieces in this 
 boiler — the shell, the fire-box, and the flue, and 
 the water must not be carried more than three- 
 fourths of an inch over the crown of the furnace. 
 We shall now again revert to cutting tools. 
 
 Fig. se. 
 
 Probably many of our readers, who nse hand 
 lathes not furnished with slide rests, have wished 
 for that indispensable appendage where boring is 
 to be done. For ordinary turning, we do not ap- 
 preciate a slide rest on a hand lathe so much as 
 
METAL SPINNING. 
 
 55 
 
 many do that we know, but for boring out valves, 
 cocks, or, in fact, anything, a scroll chuck and a 
 good slide rest are invaluable. 
 
 Some persons are always " meaning " to do a 
 thing, yet never do it. Sometimes, for the want 
 of facilities, at others for the lack of an idea. If 
 the latter be of any value, we can furnish one or 
 two on this subject that may be useful. 
 
 One way to, bore out holes parallel, without a 
 slide rest, is to do it with the spindle of the back 
 head. With a tool of peculiar construction, holes 
 varying in size, can be bored beautifully in this 
 way. We present a view of such a tool in Fig. 
 Fiar. 37. 
 
 37. It is merely a cross, formed on the end of a 
 center fitting the back spindle, the same as the 
 lathe center does. The arms of the cross are 
 made stout and thick, so as to admit of a sqnare 
 hole being cut in them. The hole is made bv 
 
56 
 
 MAXUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 drilling in and driving in a square drift afterwards 
 to take off the corners. The shanks of the tools 
 are well fitted to these holes in the arms, so that 
 a slight pressure of the screws in the sides of the 
 arm will hold them steady. When used, the tool 
 is put in the back spindle, and the cutters set to 
 the size required, or less, if there is much to take 
 out, and run through the work in an obvious man- 
 ner. Any range of size can be had up to the di- 
 ameter of the cross. It is not well to run the 
 cutters out too far, however, as they will jump and 
 chatter, or spring, and make bad work. The tool 
 
 Fig. 38. 
 
 is so easily made that one can afford to have three 
 or foar, for different jobs. 
 
 Another plan, but not so good, is to make a 
 common center and disk, like Fig, 38, 
 
METAL SPINNING. 
 
 57 
 
 Here the cutters liave a slot in them, through 
 which a bolt passes and screws into the disk ; a 
 small piece of wood put at the bottom of the tool, 
 between it and the cutter, prevents it from slack- 
 ing off so as to diminish the cut. These tools will 
 be found useful, and will do good work if proper- 
 ly handled. This latter tool is better for wood, 
 but will answer for any metal by varying the 
 cuttter. 
 
 To make a slide rest, in the common way, is a 
 costly and tedious job. For all purposes of boring, 
 a good one may be made as shown in the following 
 engraving, Fig. 39. 
 
 Fig. 39, 
 
 This is simply a casting fitted with a screw and 
 spindle, as shown. The spindle has a tool let in 
 the front end and held there by a set screw, and 
 there is a wheel at the back end to run the spin- 
 dle in and out. The casting has a leg to it which 
 
58 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 enables it to fit the common post the rest for the 
 hand tool fits. There is also a key to prevent the 
 spindle from turning round. By this arrange- 
 ment it is easy to bore, not only parallel holes of 
 any size, but tapering ones, which is often a 
 great convenience. By a simple change of tool, 
 it can also face off' any casting, and can easily be 
 made to cut a thread, of a given pitch, by any in- 
 genious workman. Not only this, but it can also 
 be made without planing ; or other work most 
 amateurs have no facilities for. It is within the 
 range of ordinary lathe work, and will be found 
 indispensable. The T-head may be of cast iron, 
 but the spindle should be steel, with a brass nut 
 let in the back end for the screw to work in. 
 
ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 59 
 
 CHAPTEE VII. 
 
 ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 
 
 I SHALL now give some examples of turning dif- 
 ferent things which are useful and interesting to 
 work. These are only hints, and I make no claim 
 to discovery, or to anything specially novel or 
 ingenious. It would be very foolish to do that, 
 for what seems remarkably " cute " to the de- 
 signer of any particular thing, is often shown to 
 be slow and unmechanical, compared to other 
 ways by other men. I hope, therefore, that the 
 expert will bear in mind the fact that, while he 
 may know better ways to do the same thing, be- 
 ginners are glad to receive instruction first, and 
 improve upon it, so much as they are able, after. 
 
 To MAKE A PAIR OF SOLITAIRE SLEEVE BUTTONS. 
 —Solitaire buttons are those which have so lately 
 come in fashion ; that is, a single stud with two 
 eyes on the back for the button-holes of the 
 wristband. It is easier to make one stud on the 
 back of the button, and easier to fasten it to the 
 shirt, as that is the kind I shall describe. 
 
 Go to any dealer in box-wood, and procure 
 
60 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 waste stuff, which he will sell at a small price. 
 Take a piece an inch square, put it in the chuck, 
 and turn it round on one end as far as you can, 
 then reverse it, and turn the other end ; this will 
 make a round plug. Take a ten-cent piece, and 
 
 rig. 40. Fig. 41. 
 
 chuck it, either in a wooden or scroll chuck. Cut 
 out the center, so that you have a silver ring. It 
 will be necessary to have two rings, one for each 
 button. Put the box-wood in the lathe and turn 
 the end as in Fig. 41. On the shoulder you are to 
 shrink the silver ring just made, Fig. 40. To 
 Fig. 43. fasten the ring properly, you 
 have only to leave the center 
 part of the box-wood a little 
 larger than the silver ring — say 
 the thickness of a sheet of paper 
 — heat the ring slightly on a 
 stove or over a spirit lamp, and 
 clap it on to its place. When it is cool, if proper- 
 ly done, no power can remove it without destroy- 
 ing the button. When the ring is in place, it 
 
ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 
 
 61 
 
 only remains to turn it off as ornamentally as the 
 workman desires. The edge may be milled, and 
 
 Fig. 43. 
 
 the face chased or left smooth. The center of the 
 button, which is of wood, may be drilled in, and 
 
62 
 
 MANUAL OF TPIE HAND LATHE. 
 
 a square ebony plag put in, which will give it a 
 unique appearance, as shown in Fig. 42. In like 
 manner ivory buttons may be turned and breast- 
 pins spun up, either in gold or silver. Brass 
 breastpins may be ornately turned, and afterwards 
 electro-plated for a trifle. They will thus be 
 cheaply made, and the ingenious turner can ploase 
 his lady friends by presenting them with speci- 
 mens of his dexterity and taste. 
 
 At the commencement of this book, I alluded 
 to lathes with traversing mandrels, and to varieties 
 of work done by tools not generally employed — 
 that is, those which are not used by the hand, but 
 in connection with the lathe, and driven by belt- 
 ing from a counter shaft over head. I give an 
 illustration of such a tool, in one form, in Fig. 43, 
 It may be screwed in the tool post of the slide 
 Fig. 44. ■ rest, or otherwise at- 
 
 tached to the lathe, 
 and the belt from 
 the counter shaft 
 carried over the 
 small pulley. The 
 driving pulley over 
 head should be very large, so as to give a great 
 velocity to the cutter, at least fifteen hundred 
 revolutions per minute. The use of this tool is to 
 make ornamental designs — circular carving, it 
 
 
ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 63 
 
 might be called — on all kinds of turned work, as, 
 for instance, in Fig. 44, where a small box for 
 pins or needles is shown. This box is made bj 
 putting a piece of hard, fine-grained wood in the 
 chuck, boring the hole and cutting the thread. It 
 is then removed, driven on a round mandrel held 
 in the chuck, turned off round outside, and then 
 prepared for the pattern as follows : — The design 
 settled upon, the index plate must be brought into 
 use, and the points inserted in such holes as will 
 bring the pattern out right, or all the spaces equal 
 — just as the teeth of gears are cut. The tool 
 shown in Fig. 43, may be any desired shape. In 
 the example of work. Fig. 44, it is m-ade half 
 round, and the pattern is called " bamboo," from 
 a resemblance to wickerwork. The pattern is 
 made to break joint, as mechanics say, that is, it 
 alternates, so that the commencement of one part 
 meets in the middle of the other. After one 
 course is made all the way round, the tool is 
 shifted on to another course, and the index 
 changed as above mentioned, until the whole has 
 been gone over. This produces a beautiful effect. 
 It is easy to see that a change of pattern is pro- 
 duced at will, by altering the kind of tool and 
 the index. As, for instance, in Fig. 45, where 
 the pattern is entirely straight. When the de- 
 sign is to be cut on such work, it is extremely 
 convenient to have a pair of centers to set on the 
 
6-i MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 lathe, across the bed ; then the fljing tool is not 
 needed, nor the index on the lathe pulleys either, 
 that on the centers being used instead. When 
 this box is held between the centers so as not to 
 mar it, the handle may be turned and the work 
 run along under the cutter, with great facility- 
 The grooves shown in the box are first drilled at 
 each end with a common drill, just to the corner 
 of the drill, so that a neat and handsome finish is 
 given ; a Y-shaped cutter is then put in a mandrel 
 
 Fig. 45. 
 
 between the centers of the lathe, and the pulleys 
 set going, so that when the work is run under 
 the tool, the slot or groove will be formed. The 
 circlet, at the top of the box, is made by a crescent 
 drill ground very thin and made sharp — a drill 
 like a fish's tail, only formed on a half circle. 
 
 Of course, these methods of doing this kind of work 
 can, as I have said before, be varied infinitely, and 
 are only cited as applicable to a common foot lathe. 
 
CENTERS. 65 
 
 CHAPTER YIII. 
 
 CENTERS. 
 
 An indispensable article on a foot lathe, where 
 any fancy work is to be done, is the centers — of 
 which I have before spoken — shown in Fig. 46. 
 These consist of a common set of heads, with 
 spindles fitted to them. One spindle has an index 
 plate and spring, and the other has a common 
 center. These heads set on a slide that is moved 
 back and forth over a rest, screwed to the lathe 
 bed as usual. It is easy to see that, with this, we 
 can do some very fine cabinet work. Suppose we 
 have a round vase turned up handsomely, and 
 wish to flute the base or make it a series of curves 
 all round ; to do this, we have only to put it in 
 the centers, set the index so as to come out even, 
 as before explained, and go ahead. 
 
 The kind of cutter to be used is a sort of gouge, 
 set in a cast-iron head, something as a plane iron 
 is set in its stock. That is, fitted tight to a groove 
 and held by a set screw. Two of these cutters 
 should be used, at equal distances apart, and the 
 cutter head should be keyed on a short shaft, set 
 6* 
 
6Q 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 between the main centers of the lathe. The 
 Fig. 46. 
 
 whole should be accurately balanced, or else the 
 work will be full of chatters or ridges. Since 
 centrifugal force increases as the square of the 
 
CENTERS. 
 
 67 
 
 velocity, any thing that runs a little out of truth, 
 will be very much exaggerated as the speed in- 
 creases. By using cutters of different shapes, 
 beautiful effects can be produced ; as, for instance, 
 suppose we take a common round-nose cutter, set 
 the index so as to divide the circle of the job we 
 are to work on in twenty-four parts, and execute 
 
 Fig. 47. 
 
 that part of the design, then take a tool forming 
 an ogee, and work out the spaces intervening, we 
 shall find that the article, when completed, will 
 have a beautiful appearance, and that, instead of 
 being round, the bottom will be octagonal, which 
 will present a pleasing contrast to the rest. 
 
 The centers can be set at any angle with the 
 cutter shaft and a pineapple pattern can be made 
 
68 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 on straight surfaces, by executing one part at one 
 angle, then reversing the rest that carries the 
 centers, and finish the remainder, one part of the 
 pattern crossing the other, 
 
 I present here views of a novel ornament which 
 exhibits great mechanical ingenuity and manual 
 dexterity, but is otherwise of no value. It con- 
 sists, in one form, of a globe with a series of rings 
 or globes inside, and a six-armed spur projecting 
 through holes — all cut out of one solid piece. Fig. 
 47 
 
 Fig. 48. 
 
 Fig. 48 shows how the points are turned. After 
 the internal rings are cut out with a quadrant tool 
 like Fig. 49, and the spur also severed, by cutting 
 in the ends o^ the holes (not boring them out 
 
CENTERS. 
 
 69 
 
 solid), tb. globe is put in a shell chuck, with 
 
 three set screws in it, as shown. The set screws 
 
 go through the holes in the globe, and the cross 
 
 Fiff. 49 
 
 pieces, in between the spurs, serve to steady the 
 job. Any number of points may be turned in 
 the globe. Fig. 50 shows a polygon with many 
 
 Fiff. 50. 
 
 spurs turned inside. At first sight it would ap- 
 pear that the tool, severing the rings, would cut 
 off the points also, but it will be seen that this is 
 not the case, for the holes being bored so as to 
 
70 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 leave a core standing (which afterward serves to 
 make the points of the spur), the severing tool 
 falls into the holes and goes no further, and each 
 division serves as a guide for the tool in the next 
 hole, so that the globe is made the same size, 
 without jags. The quadrant tool, shown before, 
 must be followed round the shell in the act of 
 cutting it out, so that it will make the same round, 
 and the globe must be shifted in the chuck, to 
 reach all the holes. It is no easy task to make 
 this little affair, for all it looks so simple. 
 
FANCY TURNING. 
 
 71 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FANCY TUENING. 
 
 Fig. 51 is another, a little more ornate and of a 
 
 different pattern. The process is essentially the 
 
 same, except that there are no spurs and a solid 
 
 disk is left inside. This disk is turned out of a 
 
 Fig. 51. 
 
 ball, left inside the exterior shell. One side of it 
 is squared up before the ball is cut free from the 
 globe, and the job is then reversed and the other 
 side squared. The ball is then cut free, and the 
 
72 
 
 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 loose disk is held fast between a flat-ended driver 
 in the live spindle, and a loose, flat-ended button 
 on the back center. The diameter is then decided 
 through the hole which is toward the reader. 
 A little tool, which is very convenient for mak- 
 
 Fig. 52. 
 
 ing small screws, is here shown in Fig 52, rather 
 out of place, but it was overlooked before. In 
 construction it explains itself. Holes of different 
 sizes are made in a steel rod, and the end filed into 
 shape, as seen. It has been found difficult by 
 some to make these cutters work, but that was 
 because they were not properly made. The 
 trouble lies in drilling the hole. When the drill 
 starts at first, the hole is larger on the outside, so 
 that the screw blank, when cut, gets tighter as it 
 goes in, and twists it off. 
 
 The remedy is, to drill the hole in some dis- 
 tance and then turn off the outside end, so that it 
 gets where the bore is the same size. This refers 
 
FANCY TURNING. 73 
 
 only to small bolts, a sixteenth of an inch in dia- 
 meter ; where they are large, the trouble men- 
 tioned is not experienced. 
 
 It is convenient to have two sizes in the tool so 
 that the heaviest part of the work can be done by 
 one cutter, the tool reversed by turning it over in 
 the fork of the jaws, and finishing the blank with 
 the last cutter. A watchmaker's fine saw is to be 
 used to sever the screw from the rod. The tool 
 itself is to fit in the spindle of the tail stock, and 
 the screw wire is held by a drill chuck. 
 
 In the matter of ornamental work, there are 
 other details and plans in vogue among expe- 
 rienced turners, which can only be alluded to, not 
 discussed at length, for the reason that the styles 
 are so numerous that an elaborate work might be 
 made of them alone, with great profit. The scroll 
 chuck or geometrical chuck, as it is sometimes 
 called, is a complicated piece of mechanism, too 
 costly for general use, and too limited in its ap- 
 plication, to mechanics in general, to be of much 
 utility. It does such work as may be seen on 
 bank bills. The chuck plate, on which the work 
 is fixed, is connected, by a train of gearing on its 
 back, with a fixed gear about the spindle on the 
 head stock, so that when the relation, these gears 
 bear to one another is altered, the motion of the 
 work on the chuck is accelerated or retarded, or 
 7 
 
74 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 is made to assume certain positions. An elliptic 
 chuck is quite another thing, the work done by 
 it is shown in Fig. 53, which consists, chiefly, of 
 ornamental designs disposed in a certain order. 
 In fact, the changes that can be made are infinite. 
 Fig. 53. Mandrels — arbors, as 
 
 many call them — are very 
 useful tools. Mandrels 
 are made of wood and 
 steel — usually steel, and 
 never of wood, unless for 
 some special reason. As, 
 for instance, when a 
 large brass ring has to be 
 turned. For this use a 
 wooden mandrel is cheaper and more quickly 
 made than a steel one. Besides, it is quite as 
 good. Wooden mandrels should have iron cen- 
 ter plates let in them, so that they will run true ; 
 if the center was made in the wood itself, it would 
 be liable to run out. Take a piece of sheet iron, 
 one eighth of an inch thick and one inch square, 
 hammer the corners thin, then turn them over at 
 right angles with the plate. This gives four 
 sharp comers, so that, when driven in the end of 
 a block, it will not slip ; three small screws will 
 hold the plate to the mandrel so that it cannot get 
 loose. The center must then be countersunk, as 
 
FANCY TURNING. 75 
 
 any other is. Such a mandrel, made of hard 
 wood, hickory for instance, will last a long time. 
 
 Fibrous wood such as white oak, makes a good 
 mandrel, for the reason that work, driven on it, 
 compresses the fibers instead of scraping them, so 
 that the size of the mandrel is unchanged, 
 
 Steel mandrels should be turned two in one, or 
 largest in the middle, for small work, each end 
 being a different size. Each end should be tho- 
 roughly centered with a drill, and countersunk, 
 and a flat place filed so that the dog will hold ; 
 iiot a scratch with a tool should ever be made in 
 one, though few persons will take the pains to 
 avoid doing this. 
 
 It is unnecessary to tell the mechanic he must 
 have a rack for his tools, but we may tell the be- 
 ginner so, and he will find it a great convenience. 
 
 Now-a-days, the twist drills, made and sold in 
 all the tool stores, are so uniformly superior to 
 any thing that can be made by hand, or by indi- 
 viduals, and are, moreover, so cheap, that it is 
 foolish to make drills. Those who have never 
 used them, should not fail to order sets. They 
 run all sizes, from a needle to an inch. 
 
 There are not a few turners who spoil work 
 simply from heedlessness. Not because they do 
 not know any better, but because they are averse 
 to taking a little extra pains. If a mandrel runs 
 
76 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 out of truth a very little, sooner than alter it, or 
 make a new one, they will try to " make it do.' 
 The result is easily seen when work is to be put 
 together. Moreover, many persons use little cau- 
 tion in setting their work in the lathe. Instead 
 of always putting it in the same place, driving it 
 from the same side of the face plate, it is entered 
 at hap-hazard. It is not good to get into the habit 
 of doing work in this way, for it soon leads to 
 recklessness. 
 
 Some are too lazy to go and grind their tools, 
 when they know it should be done, and continue 
 to use them to the ultimate damage of the work. 
 It is easy for the practiced eye to see these appa- 
 rently small things, for they constitute a great part 
 of the difference between a good workman and a 
 bad one. 
 
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 77 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 
 
 In the matter of wood working, the amateur 
 has a field as wide and attractive as the most en- 
 thusiastic could wish. Of course, under this head 
 only those that are ornamental are considered, 
 leaving the plainer and rougher materials for do- 
 mestic purposes. 
 
 VARIETIES. 
 
 Most amateurs ransack the stores of dealers in 
 foreign woods, for rich and rare varieties, leaving 
 our own native woods for others, of deeper hue 
 and harder grain. Yet it would be difficult to 
 find more beautifully veined wood than chestnut, 
 butternut, some varieties of ash, the root of the 
 black walnut, California rosewood, and oak ; all 
 of which are indigenous. 
 
 In foreign woods there are innumerable varie- 
 ties, but as comparatively few of them are to be 
 had, there can be nothing gained to the amateur 
 by mere enumeration. I have said comparatively 
 few are to be had in shops, and that is true for 
 
78 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 this reason ; the woods the amateur can readily 
 obtain, are the woods of commerce ; that is, those 
 used in the arts and trades. No one imports 
 woods at a venture, or on chance of sale. Dealers 
 know their customers, and when, by chance, they 
 find a captain of some foreign trader, who has a 
 fancy lot which he has brought over, they send 
 word to their best buyers, who come and view 
 the lot, and take that which suits them, and the 
 rest, worm-eaten and " wind-shaken," it may be, 
 is either burnt up, or thrown on one side for some 
 button maker, who may find in the short odds 
 and ends a profitable bargain. I shall, therefore, 
 mention but a few of the leading varieties of 
 choice woods, and these the most marked and 
 contrasted. Very many differ only in the name, 
 and, as far as mere exterior goes, are hardly dis- 
 tinguishable from each other, while others are 
 positively ugly. 
 
 SNAKE WOOD. 
 
 Prominent on the list of foreign woods is snake 
 wood, or, as it is sometimes called, leopard wood. 
 The markings and mottlings in this wood are 
 certainly superb in fine specimens. I have now 
 before me a small vase, made of this material, 
 which exhibits the most beautiful cloudings and 
 veinings. The pattern, so to speak, is in alternate 
 
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 79 
 
 black and red blotches, like those on the back of a 
 snake. AVhen varnished and French polished, 
 these are brought out in strong relief, and the 
 effect is very fine. There is one drawback to its 
 use, however, and that is its brittleness. Not- 
 withstanding the lathe be run at a high speed, it 
 will frequently sliver and crack in the most un- 
 looked-for and vexatious manner, and it is unsafe 
 to undertake any very delicate or fine work that 
 requires time and minute separation on the sur- 
 face in this material ; for general work, however, 
 which has mouldings and convolutions on it, it is 
 easily manipulated, and is susceptible of a brilliant 
 polish. Further : it has the advantage of being 
 "fast colors," which is more than can be said 
 of many other foreign woods. Whatever color 
 may be developed in turning, will be retained to 
 the end of time. This is not true of either tulip 
 or granadilla wood. Both of these are brilliant 
 in the extreme, when freshly cut, but by exposure 
 to the air, fade away into the most sombre colors. 
 
 TULir WOOD. 
 
 This is a moderately hard wood, of a peculiar sal- 
 mon-pink, veined with reddish brown and gray. 
 The veinings are chiefly parallel with the grain, 
 not straight, of course, but wavy and mottled. 
 As previously remarked, it is beautiful when first 
 
so MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 cut, but gradually fades into a dingy, reddish 
 brown. It is a handsome wood for contrasting 
 with ebony, or any dark variety, and is chiefly 
 used for inlaying costly furniture, such as musical 
 iustvuiuents, work boxes, etc., etc. It is undeni- 
 ably handsome, however, and by no means to be 
 disparaged. 
 
 GRANADILLA. 
 This is ooiumonly called cocoa wood. It is 
 hard, finely-veined, and capable of a handsome 
 polish. It is largely used in the manufacture of 
 tabic and pocket cutlery, for the handles. It 
 conies in logs, from two to eight inches in dia- 
 meter, and is one of the most easily worked 
 woods. Quantities of it are employed for the 
 'handles of seals or letter stamps, in which instru- 
 ments its brownish yellow color and markings 
 must be familiar to many. It fades, however, so 
 that in time it becomes almost uniform in its tone. 
 
 TAMARIND. 
 
 This wood is very unfrequently met with. I 
 obtained, by chance, a large log of a wood- worker, 
 and was highly pleased with it. It can scarcely 
 be called variegated, except so finely as to be un- 
 uotieeable, but for a rich brown color and tint it 
 is unapproachable. It is chocolate brown in hue, 
 
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 81 
 
 and so hard and close in fibre, as to rive like the 
 husk of a cocoanut, while under a burnisher alone 
 it polishes like ivorj. It is seldom one meets 
 with a wood so wholly satisfactory, in its general 
 nature, for all kinds of work where a hard grain 
 and fine surface is desirable. 
 
 CAM WOOD. 
 
 This is a dye wood ; that is, the shavings 
 boiled in water, or treated with alcohol, yield a 
 handsome dye, which is largely used in the arts. 
 It is moderately hard, in about the same degree 
 as mahogany, and is plain in surface ; it is hand- 
 some for inlaying and veneering in contrast with 
 ebony, but changes to a brown with age. 
 
 BOX WOOD. 
 This is so well known to be a fine-grained, buff 
 yellow color, and easily worked wood, as to need 
 little further explanation of its characteristics. It 
 is becoming scarcer and dearer every year, but is 
 of little general value to the amateur from its 
 monotonous sameness ; one piece being like all the 
 others ; whereas, with snake wood, or granadilla, 
 perpetual surprises await one. Eefuse box wood, 
 in odd-shaped pieces, can be bought very cheap 
 from those who make it a business to fit up blocks 
 for engravers, and also from wood-type makers. 
 
82 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 LAUREL ROOT. 
 
 This is a peculiar wood, and, in my opinion, 
 more peculiar than pretty. It has a singular 
 feeling under the tool, cutting much like cheese or 
 gum ; like any thing else, in fact, but wood. In 
 veining, it closely resembles brier wood and bird's 
 eye maple ; pipes have been made of it. It is 
 quite sound, but cannot be said to be handsome. 
 It is the root of the common swamp laurel, I am 
 told, and requires long seasoning and drying to 
 be manipulated. 
 
 WHITE HOLLY. 
 This is a pure white wood, very easily bent, 
 turned, and cut, straight of grain, and very useful 
 for inlaying. Quantities of needle cases, fans, and 
 such wares, are made of it. It is a native of this 
 country, though the best is said to come from 
 England. This seems quite unnecessary, for I 
 have picked out of my wood-pile quantities of 
 white holly, as handsome in color and in grain, as 
 one could wish to see. 
 
 EBONY. 
 
 Every one has his prejudice, and I have no 
 doubt but that many will consider me lacking in 
 taste if I condemn this wood. It has one sole re- 
 deeming feature — blackness — which renders it in- 
 
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 83 
 
 dispensable in many cases. Yet I have seen rock 
 maple dyed black, that put ebony to shame for 
 richness of color and fineness of grain. No ebony 
 that I ever saw was black, naturally. It was 
 brown, and became black by oiling and varnish- 
 ing. There is a variety, called " bastard ebony," 
 which is full of whitish brown stripes, and is soft 
 like pine, but the true ebony is not to me a pre- 
 cious wood, although it is expensive, and, in some 
 cases, undeniably handsome. In spite of all se- 
 lection, aided by good judges, I have frequently 
 found my " black ebony " any thing but black ; 
 it is full of season streaks and cracks, and splits in 
 the most perverse and unexpected manner. 
 
 OLIVE WOOD, 
 
 This is the wood of the olive tree, and is chiefly 
 valuable for its odor ; that is, to those who like 
 that odor. In color it is like white wood, and is 
 without any marked feature, except that of scent. 
 
 SANDAL WOOD. 
 
 This is a fragrant wood, light buff-colored, and 
 very soft, and straight in grain. In general it is 
 like pine wood, splitting straight, working easily, 
 and valuable solely for its odor. 
 
8-i MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 EOSE WOOD. 
 
 This is an exceedingly beautiful wood, and is 
 so well known, in its general nature, as to need 
 no recommendation. In marking, it is so delicate 
 as to admit of the finest work, and jet retain the 
 beauty of the pattern. 
 
 CURLED MAPLE. 
 
 This is one of the most beautiful of our native 
 woods ; in point of color, and power of retaining 
 it, in marking and in variety, it is, to me, one of 
 the most beautiful of all woods. The vein has a 
 sinuous sweep and curve to it, which is heightened 
 by varnishing and polishing, to a marked degree. 
 All of the handsome woods, however, have a pecu- 
 liar intractability, so to speak, which renders them 
 slow and tedious to work. In fact, it is just this 
 stubbornness of grain which renders them beauti- 
 ful, for, by running in all directions, interlacing 
 the fibres, so that the end of the grain is alter- 
 nately presented side by side with the parallel 
 grain, the light is caught and retained on dead 
 surfaces that absorb it, making those beautiful con- 
 trasts which the most uncultivated admire. 
 
 bird's eye MAPLE. 
 
 This is also a handsome wood, full of round 
 spots interspersed with circular markings, the 
 
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 85 
 
 whole forming a handsome contrast when well 
 handled. Pear and apple tree woods are also 
 handsome, but none of the native woods exhibit 
 BO great variety in tint and markings, as those 
 which grow in tropical countries. There is no 
 occasion to continue a mere list of woods which 
 can be found in any shop, and this branch of .the 
 subject will be dropped. 
 
 TREATMENT. 
 
 The first thing that occurs to the workman 
 when he possesses or sees a handsome piece of 
 wood, is: What shall I make with it? Many 
 kinds of wood show well in large works, but in 
 smaller wares, such as sleeve buttons, and napkin 
 rings, they look like common wood ; it is, there- 
 fore, labor lost to spend time in working out a 
 nice job to show the veining and marking of the 
 wood, because such veining is not brought out 
 fully. The first care is to select sound wood. It 
 is one of the most vexatious things in the world 
 to have a nice job nearly done, and find a large 
 worm hole extending right through the center of 
 it, interfering with the tool and destroying the 
 beauty of the piece. In such a case, the only re- 
 sort is to plug it up, but no matter how skillfully 
 this is done, the plug is certain to show, and 
 always mars the appearance. Some kinds of 
 
86 MANUAL 0^ THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 foreign woods are almost always worm eaten. 
 Snake wood, for instance, is very liable to that 
 fault, and too mucli care cannot be taken in ex- 
 amining it. Ebony is not so liable to it, and 
 native woods are peculiarly free from it. 
 
WOOD TURNING. 87 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 WOOD TURNING. 
 
 In turning wood, tlie speed cannot be too high, 
 or the tool too sharp. The faster the speed, the 
 more perfect the surface produced by the tool. In 
 centering, also, it is necessary to use care in get- 
 ting a sound place to begin on ; otherwise, when 
 in the middle of a job, the centers change and the 
 work is spoiled. This, of course, relates to work 
 that is turned on centers, such as chess-men, pen- 
 holders, rulers with ornamental ends, " what-not " 
 legs ; in fact, anything of that class. The driving 
 center or one that goes in the head of the lathe, 
 commonly called the live center — in opposition to 
 the one in the back end of the lathe head, which 
 does not move, and is called the dead center — 
 should be properly made, or Fig. 54. 
 
 much confusion will be the re- | 
 
 suit. Very many use the com- ^ 
 
 mon bit, like Fig. 54, which is ■ 
 
 a very poor device for the purpose. There 
 being no guard at the corners of the bit, they are 
 liable to slip when strain is brought on the work 
 
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 Fig. 55. 
 
 bj the tool ; it is, therefore, necessary to make 
 the driving bit, or center, like Fig. 55, which re- 
 presents a section through the front edge and the 
 flat pieces at the top, to prevent the work from 
 slipping. 
 
 In turning very small work, say penholders 
 for example, I have 
 found centers useless 
 to drive from, and 
 after trying dogs, com- 
 monly used for metal 
 turning, and many 
 other devices, have found no more efficient or 
 expeditious plan than to round the end of the 
 wood slightly with a pocket-knife, as in Fig. 56 ; 
 insert the rounded end in a chuck, and place the 
 other in the back center. In this way, I am able 
 to command the whole range of the work, 
 Fig. 56. from end to end, 
 
 without interference, 
 and to have the 
 small tip where it is 
 necessary to have it to keep steady ; that is, near 
 the center. 
 
 I saw all my pieces for turning, into square 
 strips. I never split them ; splitting shivers and 
 cracks hard and precious wood, and makes un- 
 sound that which was previously sound. 
 
WOOD TURNING. 89 
 
 Besides, it is more economical and more ex- 
 peditious. If you cannot saw them yourself, 
 handily, take them to the nearest wood-worker 
 who has a circular saw, and he will do it for a 
 trifle. 
 
90 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 TOOLS FOR WOOD TURNING. 
 
 It does not seem necessary to go into the dis- 
 cussion of tools, or shapes of tools, for wood 
 turning, for the grand and great reliance for 
 roughing is the gouge, and a skillful workman 
 will do as many things with it as the Eussian 
 carpenter is said to do with his axe, which is al- 
 most his only tool. For smoothing, there is the 
 flat chisel, and for special work, every one will 
 find tools, or, rather, make those he finds best 
 suited to his needs. 
 
 I would, however, here saj'- with great earnest- 
 ness, that it makes all the difference in the world 
 what kind of steel you get in your tools, whether 
 they are worth any thing or not. I never found 
 any turning tools in stores, that I considered 
 worth any thing. They are generally made for 
 working soft woods, such as pine, but the amateur 
 needs tools of a different class and temper. Hard 
 woods are full of dust on the outside, and seem 
 more or less impregnated with silica, the principle 
 which forms the coating on the stalks of rye and 
 
TOOLS FOE WOOD TURNING. 91 
 
 cereal grains generally, which destroys the cutting 
 edge in a short time, and also draws the temper. 
 I have therefore found it convenient to make my 
 own tools out of the best steel I could buy, and 
 temper them myself. The difference is very 
 marked, for where I formerly went to the grind- 
 stone every few minutes, I now use a tool a long 
 while, thus saving many steps and minutes. 
 
 I therefore repeat — choose your steel from such 
 as you find the best, and harden it yourself. If 
 you don't know how, a few trials will enable you 
 to do it " everytime," as the saying is. I have 
 found Sanderson's, Jessops, and Stubbs, all good 
 steel ; also Park Brothers American steel first-rate 
 for general work. No doubt there are some who 
 will take up this book, and for the first time read 
 of the matters contained therein, to whom harden- 
 ing and tempering are " all Greek ;" to such I will 
 explain the process. 
 
 Yery often amateurs buy tools which are good 
 if they were only properly hardened, and to them 
 also, it may be of service — if they do not already 
 know it — to be able to do this simple thing. 
 
92 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 TOOL TEMPERING, ETC. 
 
 The great object is to harden at as low a heat 
 as possible, so as not to injure tlie steel. The 
 tool must not be treated as a blacksmith does 
 iron, nothing like so hot, but so as to be of a dull 
 cherry color. Steel that will not harden at this 
 heat is poor stock. When so heated, plunge it 
 into cold water. This will make the tool hard 
 and brittle, like glass, so that it is not fit to cut 
 with; you must then rub it bright on a piece of 
 emery paper or a grindstone, and hold it in the fire 
 for a second or so at a time, until the temper is 
 drawn to the right degree of toughness and tenaci- 
 ty. This will be, for turning-tools for hard wood, 
 of a dull blue-brown, say violet, color. Straw 
 brown is hard enough to cut steel, and you do not 
 want such a temper for wood in general, but for 
 some purposes, it is desirable to have a very hard 
 tool. When the edge crumbles, it is too hard, and 
 must be lowered in temper ; when it rounds over, 
 or dulls quickly, it is too soft, and needs to be 
 
TOOL TEMPERING, ETC. 
 
 93 
 
 hardened. This much in the way of tools of 
 which more will be said hereafter. 
 
 Many things are not held in the centers at all, 
 but are grasped by chucks, of different patterns 
 or shapes. This, to me, is the most satisfactory 
 way of turning, inasmuch as it allows perfect 
 liberty and sweep in all directions, and does not 
 restrict the fancy or imagination of the work- 
 man. 
 
 It is not necessary to mention what kinds of work 
 can be done, for that will occur to every one, but 
 I will merely give here an illustration of the fa- 
 
 Fig. 57. 
 
 Fig. 58, 
 
 cility which the chuck affords for all kinds of 
 work. Fig. 57 is a box cover, and being held at 
 first by the corners, permits the inside to be 
 turned out to fit the bottom. Afterwards, what- 
 ever finish or pattern is desired, can be given to 
 the top. There is in every lathe, a center screw, 
 like Fig. 58, which is useful for holding work 
 
94: MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 that has, or is to have, a hole in it, but for fine 
 work it is not suitable, for the obvious reason 
 that the screw spoils it. Fig. 57 is the scroll chuck, 
 and is a favorite instrument of mine. I could 
 dispense with many things— the face-plate of the 
 lathe for one — better than I could with this. If 
 I want to make a sleeve-button, there is mj 
 friend, the scroll chuck, ready to hold the piece 
 true to the center, without any adjustment what- 
 ever and hold it firmly, too. If I wish to bore out a 
 ring, the chuck will grasp true, and hold it with- 
 out spring : in fact, not to dilate unnecessarily, I 
 call it the one thing no turner can afford to be 
 without. There are many in the market, but the 
 best one for general work of this class, I have 
 found to be that made by A. F. Cushman, of 
 Hartford, Connecticut. He makes a very small 
 chuck, also, for holding drills, that is exceedingly 
 convenient for them, and for holding screw wire, 
 or any work of that class. The " Beach Chuck," 
 made by the Morse Twist Drill Company of New 
 Bedford, Massachusetts, is also a good chuck, but 
 as I am not now discussing the merits of chucks, 
 I will return to the subject in hand — treatment of 
 woods. 
 
 I do not design, in this little work, telling any 
 one how to hold a tool, for it is to be presumed 
 that at least that part of the craft has been ac- 
 
TOOL TEMPEKING, ETC, 95 
 
 quired. Even if I did essay to tell them, I could 
 no more impart such knowledge than one could 
 skate by seeing another person do it. Observa- 
 tion and practice are the only teachers. 
 
96 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER Xiy. 
 
 ARTISTIC WOOD TURNING. 
 
 Some of the most beautiful work, really artis- 
 tic in every sense of tlie word, is made by laying 
 up woods of different colors, hut of the same general 
 character as regards hardness. If this latter pre- 
 caution, which I have italicised, be neglected, the 
 result will be wholly unsatisfactory, for where 
 two or more woods of different densities are laid 
 up together, side by side, the tool will act upon 
 the hardest very well, but will glide or spring 
 over the inferior material, and thus leave an un- 
 even surface. White holly and ebony work well 
 enough together, but I do not consider ebony a 
 hard wood. Of course there are many who will 
 dispute this assertion, but it is easy enough to 
 pick out specimens of any wood that are hard, but 
 what I mean to say is, that, in general, it is not a 
 truly hard wood, like rosewood or even cocoanut. 
 White holly is almost as soft as pine, and con- 
 trasts finely with the only natural black wood 
 that we have. There is one other black wood, 
 of which I have seen specimens, that is perfection 
 
ARTISTIC WOOD TURNING. 97 
 
 itself, so far as color, grain, and strength are con- 
 cerned. Indeed, it can scarcely be said to have a 
 grain, so firm and solid is it in texture. It turns 
 like horn, or ivory, and is of the " darkest, deep- 
 est, deadliest," black. Unfortunately, I cannot 
 give the name of it, for the reason that the gentle- 
 man who gave it to me, did not know himself 
 what it was, and he obtained it from the captain 
 of a vessel trading to Africa.* 
 
 Mere white and black wood, side by side, do 
 not look well unless some kind of pattern or de- 
 sign is observed, and if the pattern is obtained 
 only at great expense of time and labor, it is also 
 unsatisfactory. I shall show, further along, how 
 different designs can be produced rapidly and ac- 
 curately, with but comparatively little labor. 
 
 By inlaying, too, many most beautiful designs 
 can be produced, with but little labor compared 
 to that which is generally bestowed upon such 
 work. This kind of ornamentation is beautiful 
 upon work tables, work boxes, cigar stands, paper 
 knives, fan handles, fancy boxes, inkstands, card 
 cases, vases, picture frames, penholders, sleeve 
 buttons, ear-rings, chess and checker men, napkin 
 rings, fancy drawer knobs, jewel caskets, watch 
 holders, glove boxes, in fact, the whole array of 
 
 *I have since learned that it is called African "Black Thorn." 
 9 
 
98 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 fine cabinet wori:, looks better when neatly and 
 tastefully inlaid with woods that match and har- 
 monize with the subject, and with each other. I 
 think that some of the methods I practice are new 
 to most persons, and I am sure they will be found 
 accurate and expeditious ; which last is a point of 
 no small importance ; for when a person works a 
 long time over an elaborate thing, he gets terri- 
 bly tired of it after while, if it is slow and plod- 
 ding. In fact, where there is much that is uniform 
 in character, as in making a check pattern, in 
 black and white colors in squares, not over the 
 tenth of one inch wide — it is impossible to make 
 any thing like regularity, or fine fitting, and close 
 joints, by handling each piece separately, 
 
 I therefore have a variety of what I call 
 " stock " on hand, ready laid up, in all colors and 
 dimensions, so that I can choose from it exactly 
 as I would pick out a tool. This stock consists 
 of wood laid up in the patterns shown in Figs. 
 59-67, and of sizes varying according to my de- 
 signs, but generally very near the sizes here 
 shown. 
 
 These are laid up in long strips, say twelve 
 inches long, or as may be conveniently handled. 
 They are all sawed out with a fine circular saw, 
 by some one who understands cutting hard wood 
 for this purpose. The stuff must be shoved 
 
AETISTIC WOOD TURNING. 
 
 99 
 
 through the saw with a very regular, gradual 
 feed, so as to cut a smooth surface, and if the saw 
 is not right for cutting smooth on the side, it 
 must be made so ; for it will not do to plane the 
 strips after they are sawed, as there never would 
 be any uniformity between them, and the joints 
 
 Fig. 59. Fig. 60. Fig. 61. 
 
 Fia;. 63. 
 
 Fig. 63. 
 
 Fig. 64. Fig. 65. Fig. 66. 
 
 Fig. 67. 
 
 would be very imperfect. In gluing them up, 
 there is nothing particular to be observed, except 
 that the glue must be very hot, laid on well with 
 a stiff brush, and the stuff clamped between two 
 thick boards, which have been planed perfectly 
 true on the faces ; so that the union will be perfect 
 between the strips. In this way the job will be. 
 
100 
 
 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 well done, and the sections will show uniformly. 
 As it is the sections that are mainly used, this is a 
 matter of great importance ; for when it is neces- 
 sary to have an ornamental border to a work-box, 
 for example, it is only requisite to saw off as 
 many sections, from the end of any of the blocks, 
 as may be desired ; as in Fig. 68. It is then a 
 
 Fig. 68. 
 
 Fig. 69. 
 
 simple and easy thing to lay them in, one after 
 another, in the place that has been left for them. 
 
 I do not saw off each square strip by itself be- 
 fore I glue the stock, but I lay up several flat 
 pieces, as in Fig. 69, which represents one end 
 section of the strips, longer than it 
 is high, the saw removes some in 
 cutting, so that when I saw down 
 through the top vertically, as 
 shown by the straight line A, T ob- 
 tain square strips in long pieces, but all glued to- 
 gether so they are easy to handle, these I after- 
 ward glue together again, so that white and black 
 
AETISTIC WOOD TURNING. 101 
 
 alternate, as in tlie cliecker-board, and I then have 
 the pattern precisely uniform in all the length of 
 the stock. I claim originality for this plan, and 
 also expedition in execution ; more than either I 
 get entire uniformity. Of course it is easy to 
 make any other pattern in the same way, and it is 
 surprising to see how many rectangular and acute- 
 angled patterns can be made with these sections. 
 It is sometimes possible to get veneers of the 
 right thickness, but any veneer cutter will saw 
 the wood as desired. 
 
 Since the paragraph above was written, I have 
 seen some " Tunbridge Ware" work made in 
 England, which is, I am sure, done in the same 
 way. Therefore, I am not the originator of the 
 idea, but I can certify that it is a good and a 
 quick way of making very elaborate patterns. 
 
102 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 ♦i 
 
 CHAPTER XY. 
 
 STAMP INLAYING. 
 
 Of course there are times and places where the 
 sameness and rigidity of angular patterns are te- 
 dious, and the eye and hand, fatigued by it, 
 desire a change into something more graceful and 
 harmonious in effect. The smaller the pattern, 
 the more tedious, irksome, and expensive the 
 goods. To avoid delay is one object of the work- 
 man, but to obtain perfection is the chief. In 
 order to do this, we must have some plan or some 
 tool to multiply the same shape with great ra- 
 pidity and regularity. 
 
 In fine workmanship, or rather in small pieces, 
 it would be impossible to cut out any great num- 
 ber with the certainty of their being at all similar ; 
 some would be large, some small, and all different. 
 Let us imagine that it is desired to inlay a laurel 
 wreath, or a garland of stars in an elliptic pattern 
 about the edge of a box cover, as in Fig. 70. It 
 will be seen that to cut each one in with a chisel 
 would be an endless task. I therefore propose 
 to do it much quicker than it can be done by 
 
STAMP INLAYING. 
 
 103 
 
 other plan, and that is by a stamp. I make a 
 Fig. 70. 
 
 steel stamp, or punch, of the exact size of the 
 pattern I wish to let in the box, and am careful to 
 have it bevel inwards, from the edges toward the 
 top, as in Fig. 71, not only to avoid breaking 
 down the edges, but to make a clean, sharp im- 
 pression in the 
 wood. It is ne- 
 cessary to cut in 
 pretty deep, for, 
 with all your care, you cannot avoid breaking the 
 edge to some extent, and it can only be practised on 
 
 Fig. 71. 
 
104 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 any solid, sound wood, not veneered. Except for 
 large patterns, I do not put veneers in these inci- 
 sions, or stamp markings, as I coald not cut them 
 out so small, as the pattern shows in the engrav- 
 ing, but I either make a cement of white lead, and 
 push that into the holes, or, using the same 
 stamp I cut in the pattern in the wood with, I cut 
 pieces out of thin sheet German silver, and push 
 them in with great ease. If I use silver, I am 
 careful to cut in below the surface of the cover 
 on the box, so that I can put the cover in the 
 lathe again, and reflnish the top so as to be flush 
 with the silver. In this way I get a true, uniform, 
 and even pattern, which looks as if it had grown 
 in its place ; for grace and elegance of appearance, 
 it cannot be surpassed. Where it is absolutely 
 necessary to use a chisel and cutting tool to inlay 
 with, I still make stamps, even so large as half an 
 inch superficial area, for they are soon cut out, 
 and serve to mark the outlines for the chisel, so 
 that it is easier to cut the pattern by their aid. 
 
 In straight lines, or even in letting in circles, 
 parts of circles, ellipses, in fact, any curved or 
 angular work with veneers, I invariably cut the 
 pattern out before laying it on the box, and then 
 fit the other colored pieces in the spaces left. 
 Very many veneers cannot be handled at all when 
 dry, without breaking all to pieces and spoiling 
 
STAMP INLAYING. 105 
 
 the pattern. It will be necessary to soak ebony, 
 for instance, for some time before you want to use 
 it. With this precaution, you can cut it in any 
 shape without danger. It is the same with maple 
 veneer. When I have cut out an intricate pat- 
 tern in ebony, and wish to inlay the same with 
 holly, I obtain an exact duplicate of the shape the 
 holly should have, by placing it, wet, over the 
 ebony, holding it firmly, so that it cannot slip, 
 and then rapping the holly with the end of a tool 
 handle. In this way a fac simile of the pattern is 
 transferred in wet lines to the holly, and you have 
 only to follow them over with a lead pencil to get 
 a perfect shape. Then take a sharp square-ended 
 knife, and laying the veneer on a hard surface, 
 cut slowly and carefully all round the marks, and 
 after a few incisions, you will have the satisfaction 
 of seeing it come out perfect. 
 
106 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 
 
 These methods greatly expedite the labor of 
 inlaying, for mere labor mucli of it is ; that is, 
 when repetition of the pattern is frequent, as it is 
 in small designs. 
 
 The great trouble and vice of amateur me- 
 chanics is haste; they are too anxious to see the 
 result of a design to give it proper attention in 
 detail, and, as a consequence, it lacks that nicety 
 and uniform elegance that characterize the shop- 
 made goods. For where men work by the day, 
 they are not too energetic as a rule. 
 
 DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 
 
 By this I mean the employment of small bits of 
 different colored woods to produce a certain effect. 
 I have seen many that were made to represent 
 foliage of trees, the wood being stained green, of 
 course, but these works of art seem to me labor 
 thrown away, and, except as mere curiosities, are 
 in no wise attractive ; for no workman can do 
 
DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 107 
 
 more than imitate nature in this line, and it is a 
 poor imitation. 
 
 A legitimate branch of this line of work is that 
 wherein small bits, say of the size of Fig, 72, can 
 be conveniently used. When laid in nicely, and 
 the colors arranged to harmonize, they certainly 
 look well, resembling the straw j,. ^^ 
 
 flower work, or inlaid straw ^ — ?> 
 
 work of Japan. The wood may 
 be dyed innj color desired, but it is much nicer to 
 use those colored by nature, which do not fade. 
 I give here a list of naturally colored woods, use- 
 ful for this kind of work. 
 
 Black — Ebony, 
 
 Red— Cam Wood, Tulip Wood. 
 
 Yellow — Boxwood, 
 
 White— Holly. 
 
 Brown — Walnut, Cocoa, 
 
 Red Brown — Spanish Cedar (cigar box). 
 
 These woods all inlay well except the Spanish 
 Cedar and Walnut, which are apt to chip and 
 sliver off on the edges, when cut thin. Cam wood 
 is a pretty red wood, very close in grain, but not 
 to be had in veneers, as it is used chiefly for 
 making dyes. Most of this kind of work looks 
 better when ranged in angles about a center, 
 though I recently saw a work-box in Boston, 
 which had an accurate representation of a worsted 
 
108 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 pattern worked on a canvas, but as the workman 
 had unfortunately selected a very ugly pattern, 
 and the woods had faded, his labor was wholly 
 thrown away. 
 
 After having arranged or laid one course in 
 mosaic work, it is comparatively easy to follow 
 the whole around, but it is absolutely essential 
 that the pieces to be let in should be fac similes 
 of each other, for unless this is the case, the pattern 
 will come out wrong when the ends are joined, or 
 where it meets. Great care must be observed in 
 this, and as it would be almost impossible to cut 
 slips of veneer so small, and be accurate, I prefer 
 to take a slip of wood, and saw off of the end, 
 having, of course, previously planed and calli- 
 pered the stick perfectly true. Here let me say, 
 that the saw I use for this purpose, is the watch- 
 makers' dividing saw, the same as jewellers use. 
 Some of the saws are scarcely larger than a horse 
 hair, while others are three-tenths of an inch deep 
 and very narrow. With this instrument I can 
 work very delicately as regards thinness and 
 smoothness of surface. It is also admirable for 
 scroll sawing, of which more hereafter. 
 
 Of course, all these are small jobs, and small, 
 fine work; when it comes to more elaborate pat- 
 terns, such as a regenerally found on tables, work- 
 boxes, musical boxes, and similar things, it re- 
 
DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 109 
 
 quires more time, but as tlie pattern is large, it re- 
 quires no particular patience beyond that which 
 a very fine piece of work does. But where the 
 pieces are small, as in mosaic, it takes a great deal 
 of patience to pick up one after another, and no 
 small degree of artistic talent to bring them all in 
 in the right place. 
 
 10 
 
110 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER XYII. 
 
 FINISHING THE OUTSIDE. 
 
 When the pattern has all been laid, the next 
 thing that remains is to finish the exterior, and 
 polish it or oil it as may be desired. To do this 
 it is, of course, necessary to use great care. The 
 veneers, if they have been used, are very thin, 
 about the twenty-fifth part of an inch, and there is 
 not much to come off. It must therefore be 
 scraped very carefully with a sharp scraper, 
 either in the lathe, or, if the work be a flat sur- 
 face, by a scraper held in the hand, and made of 
 sheet steel of the best quality. In using the 
 scraper, care must be taken to humor the grain 
 of the wood, so that it will not be roughened up 
 by being rubbed the wrong way. When it has 
 been scraped sufficiently smooth, it must be tho- 
 roughly rubbed with sand paper, until it has an 
 even, uniform surface all over. If it is to be var- 
 nished and polished, French polish as it is termed, 
 such as is seen on pianos, it will require a long time 
 and much experience to make it a success. The 
 reason is this : the polish is really given to the 
 
FINISHING THE OUTSIDE.. Ill 
 
 gum of which the varnish is composed, and not to 
 the wood itself. The gum sinks into the pores of 
 the wood and fills them up, and hardens as it is 
 applied, but the fluids in which the gums are dis- 
 solved, either turpentine or oil, evaporate compar- 
 atively slowly, so that before each coat is applied, 
 the previous one must be dry and hard, or else 
 the next one will be streaky, and the surface will 
 be ridgy. 
 
 The length of time depends greatly on the 
 weather ; from three to six months being re- 
 quired to properly dry and harden a piano-case so 
 that it will wear — six months is, however, ex- 
 treme, and is only the case in very warm weather. 
 It will easily be seen why so many amateurs fail 
 in producing that vitreous glaze, or polish, which 
 is so universally admired. Not one in fifty has 
 patience enough to wait until the first coat dries, 
 before the second is applied, and they keep trying 
 the varnish, to see if it won't work, in a day or 
 two after it has been put on. It sometimes takes 
 ten days before the third coat is ready to apply 
 the next. It is a common fault to apply too much 
 varnish on the first coat. It is necessary to rub 
 it into the grain of the wood, so that it is tho- 
 roughly charged with it, and sinks into the pores. 
 By rubbing it is merely meant to take a little on 
 the brush and cover the surface gradually, without 
 
112 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 trying to make it look well or ill. The ground 
 work has to be put on first, before any thing can 
 be done toward ornamenting. After one coat has 
 been put on, it must be rubbed down with sand pa- 
 per to remove any varnish that may not have sunk 
 into the work, and when all is fair and smooth and 
 dry, a second coat may be applied and treated in 
 the same way. The third coat may be applied 
 rather more freely, and must be left to get tho- 
 rougly hard before treating it. It must then be 
 rubbed freely with pumice stone flour, and water. 
 This will leave it bright and hard if the varnish 
 has been skillfully put on, and a coat of flowing 
 varnish may now be put on for the last. Flowing 
 varnish is so-called because it is lighter in body 
 than most varnishes, and is intended as the last of 
 all, to produce that elegant glossy surface which 
 characterizes all fine work. 
 
 Many persons use shellac varnish, which is 
 simply gum lac (the proper name is " lac "), 
 which is a gum found in the Indies ; the trade 
 give it the names of shell-lac and seed-lac, and 
 one other which I have forgotten : shell-lac is the 
 kind used for varnish. The gum is simply dis- 
 solved in alcohol of high proof; the solution 
 being aided by exposure to a warm place and 
 agitation from time to time. As this varnish 
 dries immediately, or within an hour, owing to 
 
FINISHING THE OUTSIDE. 113 
 
 tlie rapid evaporation of the alcohol ; it is very 
 convenient for amateurs who are of an energetic 
 turn of mind, and wish to see their productions 
 turned and finished in a breath, as one may say. 
 It takes a fair polish, but is by no means so dura- 
 ble or beautiful as copal or hard varnishes. On 
 some woods, as, for instance, cherry, pine, or 
 cedar, it is very appropriate, and looks well. 
 
 It is quite easy to write these instructions and 
 observations down, but there is a dexterity, ac- 
 quired only by practice, which cannot be told to 
 any one, and the operator must, if possible, inform 
 himself by visiting the nearest cabinet or piano 
 factory, and see with his eyes for himself. 
 
 I should have said previously that ivory black 
 introduced into shell-lac varnish, gives a very 
 good black lacquer, closely imitating japan, while 
 other colors, such as blue, carmine, green, or yel- 
 low, have the effect of enamel when handsomely 
 rubbed down and polished with several coats. I 
 have seen some most beautiful knobs for drawers, 
 fancy handles, etc., made in this way, that looked 
 like porcelain. 
 
 Oiled wood looks well in furniture, and there 
 may be some who desire to use it on fancy work. 
 It is simply linseed oil applied in successive coats ; 
 but it requires time to dry, and alwaj^s has a dis- 
 agreeable odor about it. 
 10* 
 
114 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 INLAYING CONTINUED. 
 
 A VERY convenient tool for inlaying 
 veneers edgewise, so as to produce alter- 
 nate dark and wliite lines is made by tak- 
 ing a piece of steel, one fourth of an inch 
 by one sixteenth thick, and making a 
 chisel, like Fig. 73. The bottom is 
 rounded to prevent it from digging in. 
 To use this tool, or to inlay fine white 
 and black lines, or white lines alone, all 
 over the surface of any piece of wood in 
 any pattern desired, it is only needful to 
 mark out the pattern first, incise it all 
 around with a sharp keen edge, such as 
 a knife blade broken off to form a square 
 end, and then follow the lines with this 
 tool, when the wood will come away, leav- 
 ing a clean channel, in which the veneer 
 may be inserted with expedition and 
 neatness. In crossing the corners, it is 
 necessary to use caution, so that they be 
 not broken away, for no inlaying looks 
 well if chipped, or ragged at the edges. 
 
INLAYING CONTINUED. 115 
 
 This is especially convenient for drawing lines 
 across mahogany boxes that have been put toge- 
 ther before inlaying was thought of for them. 
 The veneers should all be glued together, side 
 and side first, that is, if two colors are used, then 
 they will fit on the ends properly, and may be 
 handled with more expedition. 
 
 GLUING IN VENEEES. 
 
 In a previous part of this little work I have ad- 
 vised the use of waterproof cements for fine in- 
 laying, so that dampness will not aSect them, but 
 as this is not always convenient, it is well to make 
 the glue so that it can be used and the work 
 finished oJBf in a short time. This is easily done 
 by making the glue as thick as it will run, or so 
 that it is like a jelly. If applied in this condition, 
 it will set hard in thirty minutes, and the work 
 may be cut down without fear or danger of its 
 moving. I have done this frequently, in order to 
 see what kind of work I was making. Always 
 put a clamp on your work wherever you can, for 
 although the glue will adhere of itself to the 
 wood, it adheres much more strongly if pressed 
 down by a clamp. Also, never put a veneer on a 
 piece of work that is uneven, for although it may 
 set square under the pressure of the clamp, when 
 you come to scrape it, it will give way and yield 
 
116 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 to the inequalities, and when varnished and 
 polished, will be full of depressions. 
 
 Don't be afraid to rub down with sand paper, 
 under the impression that you are spoiling the 
 work, but let the varnish get thoroughly dried, 
 and be hard before you attempt it. Be sure, also, 
 to remove every particle of varnish if you touch 
 it at all, otherwise that which remains will take a 
 coat while the bare wood will not take so much, 
 and you will have a surface full of scars and 
 ridges. It is not necessary to touch the wood in 
 Tabbing down, but go down to the wood, so that 
 a waxy appearance is presented, and you will have 
 a handsome finish that will add greatly to the 
 beauty of the work. White holly is easily soiled 
 when used in connection with ebony, by the dust 
 from it, and it will be necessary to rub it, or scrape 
 it delicately, before varnishing, without touching 
 the ebony. 
 
 IVOEY. 
 This substance is certainly a most attractive 
 one to the turner. Pure in color, hard, solid and 
 strong beyond belief in texture or grain, it has 
 the fewest disadvantages of any substance we 
 use. It is easily dyed to any shade, and will hold 
 it a long while. Either for jewelry, or rather for 
 personal adornment, or articles of utility, it is 
 
INLAYING CONTINUED. 117 
 
 well adapted, and but for the cost of it would 
 be in general use. It is getting dearer and 
 scarcer each year. The best comes from Ceylon, 
 and that in least repute from African elephants ; 
 the former is said to be much stronger and more 
 solid. 
 
 Of its general manipulation there is not much 
 to be said, except that the workman will find it 
 trying to the edge of his tools. In all respects it 
 can be cut and turned like hard woods. 
 
 Fig. 74. 
 
 It is easily softened by immersion for a time in 
 weak acid, so that its friability, toughness, or 
 tendency to resist the carving tool, is destroyed, 
 and this without injuring the goods, unless the 
 acid is too strong. 
 
 As it is so expensive in general, it is well for 
 the amateur to know that he can purchase it in all 
 shapes, either in squares like Fig. 74, or in flat, 
 cord-like slips, from dealers in it. I will mention 
 one person, F. Grote, 78 Fulton street, New York, 
 who generally has a good assortment of this kind. 
 
 It is extremely convenient to find pieces of the 
 exact size and shape one needs, and it is also 
 
118 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 economical, botli in time and material, for all 
 ivory must be sawed, and that is slow work where 
 there are no facilities. After the article, what- 
 ever it may be, is turned, it may be either dyed, 
 or polished in its natural color. 
 
 POLISHING. 
 This is performed in the easiest way. A wet 
 rag will polish ivory, but in order to put on a 
 brilliant gloss, take starch, or Spanish white, satu- 
 rate a wet rag with it, and hold it on the work ; 
 when dried off and rubbed with a woolen cloth or 
 a piece of chamois leather, it will have a brilliant 
 and durable gloss. 
 
 DYEING IVOEY. 
 
 I tried a great many plans and recipes for dye- 
 ing ivory before I hit upon any that were in all 
 respects satisfactory. Most of them were nasty, 
 involved the purchase of drugs and dyes that 
 were sure to be adulterated, and the results were 
 vexatious, but one day, in dyeing some silk with 
 family dye color, prepared by Howe and Stevens, 
 of Boston, Massachusetts, the idea occurred to me 
 to try it on ivory. It succeeded to admiration, 
 and I had found what I had so long sought, 
 namely, a clean, cheap, simple and sure method 
 of coloring ivory to any shade needed, in a short 
 
INLAYING CONTINUED. 119 
 
 time. The color can always be had, ready for 
 use, in any town, as much so as a bottle of ink, 
 while the various shades and gradations of tint 
 are ready made to hand ; there is no need of stale 
 urine, or any other mess, — simple immersion in 
 the hot liquid from ten to twenty- four hours will 
 give a permanent and brilliant hue to any article. 
 I have never seen such brilliant colors as these 
 dyes give. The solferino and the black are par- 
 ticularly handsome, and are insoluble in water ; 
 that is, the goods may be washed without injury. 
 The solferino will not bear hard rubbing in water, 
 but the black and other colors will, without in- 
 jury. The depth to which the color penetrates de- 
 pends upon the length of time the goods are im- 
 mersed, but twenty-four hours, and even six hours 
 in some cases, will answer all purposes. For chess- 
 men, the solferino is a splendid color, while all 
 the other tints can be had for other kinds of fancy 
 work. 
 
 Ivory is particularly suitable for mosaic inlay- 
 ing, as it never chips, and can be cut into the small- 
 est and thinnest pieces without danger of fracture. 
 It will hold on wood with glue, though there are 
 other cements, stronger, for the purpose. 
 
 It can also be dyed before inlaying, and after- 
 wards rubbed down to a uniform surface, but the 
 work must be done well, as the dyes do not always 
 
120 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 penetrate equally, and if the work is delicate and ' 
 the design small, it is apt to change the colors to 
 rub them down. Napkin rings, breast pins, 
 masonic mallets and emblems generally, miniature 
 gothic chairs with carved backs for ornamental 
 purposes, chess and checker men, small boxes for 
 lip and eye salves, needle cases, thimble cases, 
 ring and jewel boxes, penholders, silk-winders 
 card cases, all afford a fine opportunity for the 
 skill and taste of the amateur. 
 
ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING. 121 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING. 
 
 Although a handsomely veined piece of wood 
 is as beautiful a thing as any one would wish to 
 see, there are occasionally pieces of work that 
 look well inlaid, and for this it is desirable that 
 we should have as pretty patterns and judiciously 
 chosen woods and contrasts as we can get. 
 
 I give here what I think is a pretty design for 
 the cover of a round box. It is easily made, and 
 I venture to suggest that the following colors will 
 will be found agreeable ; No. 1, tulip with out- 
 side edge of white holly, tulip to be cut across the 
 grain. No. 2, ebony cut out of a solid veneer, 
 that is not pieced. It will save a great deal of 
 time and labor to glue this veneer on to mahoga- 
 ny a quarter of an inch thick, and then saw the 
 pattern out with a fine turn-saw. To get the 
 veneer off whole, soak it in warm water for a 
 few minutes. No. 3, boxwood. No. 4, ebony. 
 No. 5, tulip, or, if you can get it, turtle wood. 
 It is sometimes to be had of Henry A. Kerr, 
 Center street, New York, dealer in woods. The 
 11 
 
122 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE, 
 
 central flower can be omitted or executed. It is 
 a good deal of work, but v/ill make a beautiful 
 piece when well done. Turtle wood is very re- 
 markable, being yellow inclining to salmon, 
 mottled with brownish black streaks, sometimes 
 black with superb crimson markings, like a sum- 
 mer sunset after a thunder storm. 
 
 Fig. 76 is another similar pattern. Of course the 
 workman will make such disposition of the colors 
 as he pleases. When these are varnished and 
 French polished, they certainly look splendidly, 
 and are specimens of work that any one may be 
 proud of; of course supposing them to be well 
 litted as to joints, and without the glairy, sticky 
 appearance that characterizes varnish half rubbed 
 down, and that worked before it has hardened. 
 Hardening and drying are two different things, 
 Yarnish dries before it hardens, and requires time, 
 the more the better, to season, so it can be polished. 
 This is a very easy pattern to fit, and any one of 
 experience can make it complete in four or six 
 hours. 
 
 Fig, 77 is still another pattern, but what is 
 shown dark, as at A, in the outer circles should 
 be light to represent tulip wood. Tulip contrasts 
 splendidly with ebony. The center or body of 
 the cover should be rosewood. This must be put 
 on first, all over the whole surface, and a white 
 
OENAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING. 123 
 
 holly ring put on tlie outside edge. The exterior 
 and interior circles, which form the pattern, are 
 then cut out hy a tool like a carpenter's bit used 
 in the lathe, as in this diagram. The letter a is 
 round, and will, of course, make a slight center 
 hole in the box cover, but as it is covered up that 
 IS a matter of no moment. The inner circles B 
 should also be tulip, or some wood that contrasts 
 with ebony ; mahogany is very handsome. This 
 pattern is not pretty, but it is striking and unique, 
 which is sometimes the same thing. Of course, 
 the distances of the circles must be determined 
 beforehand with a pair of compasses. 
 
 In scroll sawing much can be done that is 
 pleasing to the eye in small works, but for large 
 designs and intricate ones, the amateur will find 
 an upright or jig saw necessary, unless he be more 
 than usually patient. 
 
 For the joints of boxes before veneering I al- 
 ways prefer screws rather than dovetailing, which 
 takes a long time, and is no better when done ; 
 screws are sure, never start, and save time, which 
 is a great consideration with amateurs, whose 
 tasks are often, indeed, in nearly all cases, carried 
 on after some other labor is over, in the interim 
 between arduous toil. 
 
 White woods, such as holly, need white glue, 
 else the joints will show. Beware of dust in your 
 
124 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 varnish brush, and take care that yo"u soak it for 
 half a day before using it, else the hairs will come 
 out on your work and ruin it. Flat, camel's hair 
 brushes are to be used, and can be had in every 
 paint store. Use only the whitest copal varnish 
 for your white holly, else you will find it yellow 
 holly after the varnish has been put on. Most 
 varnishes need thinning slightly with turpentine 
 before use, especially if they have been kept some 
 time. 
 
 Keep your lathe centers so that they run true 
 on the points at all times, and have a mark on 
 them so that they always enter from the same 
 side of the lathe mandrel. 
 
 When you put clamps on to hold your veneers, 
 as you always should, be careful, if your wood is 
 soft, that you do not set the clamps so tight as to 
 sink the veneer into the lower wood, for the 
 result will be an uneven surface, that nothing can 
 remedy. 
 
 Be careful to have clean glue and clean surfaces 
 if you wish to make sound work. Dust or grit 
 ruins glue so that it will not hold. 
 
GENERAL SUMMARY. 125 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 GENERAL SUMMARY. 
 
 In polishing metals, whether brass, iron, steel, 
 or of whatever nature, it is essential that the tool 
 marks and scratches of files, or other agents, 
 should be entirely removed before the final gloss 
 is given, otherwise the work will have a cheap 
 look that detracts very much from its appearance. 
 
 If emery of the finest character (flour) is used, 
 with oil, the result will be very beautiful, but 
 tins makes a mess about the lathe it is desirable 
 to avoid. Polish with oil is softer in appearance 
 than dry polishing, and is much more durable, 
 being not so liable to rust and tarnish. Dry 
 polishing is performed with sand paper of various 
 grades, running from | to 0. This gives a very 
 bright, dazzling finish, that is easily rusted. 
 Brass must be treated with rotten stone and oil to 
 be nicely polished, and after this the burnisher 
 should be used. Lacquers are employed for the 
 purpose of preserving the polish unimpaired, and 
 are made as follows : 
 
126 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE 
 
 LACQUERS. 
 
 2 gals. AlcoHol, proof, specific gravity not less 
 than 95 per. cent. 
 1 lb. Seed-lac. 
 1 oz. Gum Oopal. 
 1 oz. English. Saffron. 
 
 1 oz. Annotto. 
 
 Another. 
 40 ozs. Proof Alcohol. 
 8 grs. Spanish Annotto. 
 
 2 drs. Turmeric. 
 J oz. Shellac. 
 
 12 grs. Red Sanders. 
 
 When dissolved add 30 drops Spirit of Tur- 
 pentine. 
 
 Directions for Making. — Mix the ingredients, 
 and let the vessel containing them stand in the 
 sun, or in a place slightly warmed, for three or 
 four days, shaking it frequently till the gum is 
 dissolved, after which let it settle from 24 to 48 
 hours, when the clear liquor may be poured off 
 for use. Pulverized glass is sometimes used in 
 making lacquers, to carry down the impurities. 
 
 The best burnisher is a piece of bloodstone 
 ground to shape and set in a handle ; they can be 
 bought for about a dollar and a half at any watch- 
 
GENEKAL SUMMARY. 127 
 
 makers' tool store, Eouge powder is also an ex- 
 cellent thing for polishing brass and German 
 silver. German silver, in wire, also in sheet, can 
 be had at the same place. 
 
 For silver plating fluid the workman will find 
 that manufactured by Howe & Stevens, Boston, 
 Massachusetts, to be the best of its class, as it 
 leaves a thin coating of pure silver on the metal, 
 which can be renewed from time to time, as it 
 wears, by a fresh application. 
 
 Any articles that require to be gilt can be best 
 done by electro platers, who will deposit as much 
 gold on the surface as one desires, even to the 
 thirty-second part of an inch. It is better, how- 
 ever, to buy a small battery, which can be had for 
 four or five dollars, and do this for yourself. Yery 
 many other things can be electro-plated, and 'fac- 
 similes of medals produced at a small cost, which 
 will be both instructive and ornamental. 
 
 SOLDERING. 
 
 There are many ways of soldering, but the 
 amateur will find the spirit lamp and the solder- 
 ing iron the most convenient and expeditious. 
 
 In soldering tinned surfaces, no particular care 
 is needed, as the solder will adhere easily, but in 
 brass, or other metals, it does not do so without 
 the aid of a rosin flux or acid solution. These 
 
128 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATKE. 
 
 simply act to make the surfaces chemically clean, 
 so that the solder will hold. In fact, cleanliness 
 is absolutely indispensable to success, for the 
 solder will crawl off of any thing that is dirty or 
 greasy, even though it may not appear to be so. 
 Lead and tin are used for solder, and can be 
 bought of any tinner yery cheaply. The end of 
 the soldering iron (which is not iron, but copper, 
 by the way) should be tinned, otherwise the sol- 
 der will not hold on it, neither will it follow when 
 the iron is drawn along a seam. 
 
 The iron is readily tinned' in this way. File it 
 to the shape you want it, and put it in the fire, 
 heating it pretty hot, but nothing like redness. 
 You are then to wipe it clean quickly on a rag 
 wet with soldering fluid, which can be had in 
 drug stores, and is made of muriatic acid and 
 sheet zinc dissolved in the same ; the zinc must 
 be clean, and in small strips, and shaken gradually 
 until dissolved. The solution must then be well 
 diluted with water. It is used by wetting the 
 rag aforesaid with it and rubbing the iron in it ; 
 if block tin in strips be now rubbed on the end 
 of the iron, it will adhere, and the iron will be 
 ready for use. The iron must not be heated so as 
 to melt off the tin and expose the copper under- 
 neath ; for the iron is then useless until tinned 
 again. . 
 
GENERAL SUMMARY. 129 
 
 The soldering fluid is always to be used when 
 brass, or any surfaces not coated with, tin, are to 
 be united, 
 
 By the spirit lamp you can join metallic sur- 
 faces very easily and quickly as follows : take 
 your plate, or whatever it is you wish to join to- 
 gether, and scour it bright with fine sand-paper 
 or pumice stone and water, on the faces to be 
 united. Apply the soldering fluid, hold it over 
 the spirit lamp blaze, and as soon as it is well 
 heated, rub it over with a stick of tin ; when it is 
 well tinned, lay it on a hot flat iron or the stove 
 for a minute, until you have tinned the other 
 piece, then clap both together, and they will set 
 instantly. 
 
 The blowpipe is very convenient for soldering 
 small pieces together that cannot be touched with 
 the iron, but as it requires some skill to use it, 
 the amateur is not likely to be very successful 
 with it. The articles to be soldered in this way, 
 should be placed on a piece of charcoal, so that 
 the heat will be equally distributed and kept up 
 during the process. 
 
 VARNISHING AND POLISHING. 
 
 On no account is a second coat of varnish to be 
 applied before the first one is dry. If this is done 
 the result will be a sticky, ridgy, dirty looking 
 
130 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE, 
 
 job. Before the work is varnislied even, it must 
 be thorougblj sandpapered to remove inequalities, 
 and the last sandpapering should be with the 
 finest grade. Then apply the varnish, taking 
 care not to put too much on for the first coat. 
 When that is dry and hard, sandpaper with fine 
 paper again and varnish again. Three to four 
 coats are enough for ordinary work. When the 
 last coat is dry and hard, get some floated pumice 
 stone flour, that is, pumice stone flour that has 
 been washed, mix it with water to about the 
 thickness of cream ; apply it to a woolen rag, and 
 rub it gently over the work; not too hard, for 
 that would cut the varnish off down to the wood. 
 After a while you will see that the surface of the 
 varnish begins to have a hard, smooth body, like 
 carriage work. When this occurs, you can wash 
 the pumice stone all off, and take a little Tripoli 
 or rotten stone and oil, and rub gently all over 
 the job ; you will then have a surpassingly beau- 
 tiful and brilliant surface, that will show the 
 grain and vein of the wood to perfection. If you 
 desire the gloss that varnish gives, you must 
 apply a thin coat of wearing varnish after this, 
 In varnishing, you must buy " rubbing varnish " 
 if you intend to polish and oil varnish, not spirit, 
 which is apt to crack and rub up under the treat- 
 ment. 
 
GENERAL SUMMARY. 181 
 
 BRUSHES, 
 
 In varnishing, you, of course, desire to Lave t» 
 true and even surface, without a ridge to show 
 where the brush left it. Camel's hair flat brushes 
 are used for this purpose, but they will not an- 
 swer in spirit varnishes, as the hairs drop out or 
 are loosened from the action of the spirit on the 
 shellac or glue, which holds them in. Bristle 
 brushes are the best for general use. They must 
 be soaked for an hour or more in cold water, to 
 fasten the bristles before using. 
 
 PEARL. 
 
 This substance is easily sawed into shape, and 
 is easily turned with a common steel tool. It is 
 polished readil}'- with pumice stone and water and 
 "putty powder," this last to be had of chemists 
 or lapidaries. It is better to preserve the colored 
 surface as nature left it, for the beautiful rays 
 and tints presented by it are owing to a peculiar 
 disposition of thin scales on the surface, which re- 
 tain the light; if these be destroyed, the beauty 
 of the material is lost. It is to be had of marine 
 store keepers generally, or the amateur can get it 
 more readily of the nearest button manufacturer. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS, 
 If you buy any tools, always buy the best that 
 money can get. P. S. Stubs' files, wire, limmers, 
 
132 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 and screw plates, are standard tools, and the ama- 
 teur cannot go astray in choosing them. A vise 
 is indispensable, and it should be large enough to 
 hold the work without springing. 
 
 CURVING MAPLE VENEEES. 
 
 If you wish to curve a veneer so that it will fit 
 a half or a whole circle, it is easily done by dip- 
 ping it in hot water, when it will instantly curl 
 up into any shape you want. I do this with bird's 
 eye maple. This wood is easily stained any hue, 
 and is rather handsomer in chocolate brown than 
 in its natural color. It is then the nearest to 
 French oak of any wood that we have, and that is 
 unquestionably superb. Such markings and mot- 
 tlings as it has, surpass anything ever seen; it is 
 a deep, rich, chocolate brown color, full of snarls, 
 curves, and knots, not over five eights of an inch 
 in their largest diameters, and so beautiful that it 
 seems as if some hand must have arranged them. 
 
 The French oak is susceptible of a splendid 
 polish, but I am unable to say how it works, for 
 I never worked any, nor do I know where to get 
 it. Curled maple will also take a handsome dye. 
 Get Howe & Stevens's Dye Colors in powder — ■ 
 they can be had in any apothecary's store, of 
 any shade — put it in an earthen dish and boil 
 it, then dip or sponge the veneer with it. The 
 
GENERAL SUMMARY. 133 
 
 color will strike through and through, and you 
 may sand-paper it as much as you please without 
 removing it. It is a very beautiful job to take a 
 plain ogee moulding and curl a bird's eye maple 
 veneer on the round part, and an ebony veneer 
 on the fiUet or hollow, and then varnish and 
 polish it. It makes one of the most beautiful 
 picture frames that ever was seen ; having all the 
 effect of mouldings made from the solid wood. 
 
 CUTTING MISCELLANEOUS MATERIALS. 
 
 By these I mean horn jet, malachite, alabaster, 
 cannel coal, glass, and similar substances. For 
 all of these, except malachite, steel will answer, 
 but that steel will not touch. It is not a nice 
 material to work, being apt to check and crack in 
 the most unlooked-for manner. To those who 
 have never seen it, I will say that it is a stone, or 
 species of marble, obtained in Eussia, and is green 
 in color, marked with wdiite and greenish gray 
 stripes. The green is specially brilliant, and the 
 effect is very fine. Although it is so hard that steel 
 will not cut it, it is easily scratched in use, and is 
 a soft stone, and can be readily cut on a common 
 vulcanite emery wheel, and polished on a razor 
 strop covered with rouge powder. It is fre- 
 quently used for jewelry. Glass is easily filed in 
 
 a lathe with a common file, but I do not know 
 12 
 
134 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
 
 what any one should wish, to work glass for, as it 
 is exceedingly dangerous from the splinters which 
 fly from it, is quite friable and easily broken, and 
 is, moreover, so common that no value attaches to 
 it. Very pretty vases can be made out of ala- 
 baster by turning them in the lathe. 
 
I I^ D E X . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Acid in soldering 127 
 
 African black-thorn 97 
 
 Alabaster, Cutting 133 
 
 Apple-Wood 85 
 
 Arbors 74 
 
 Artistic Wood-Turning 96 
 
 Bamboo Pattern 63 
 
 Bank-Bills, Work on 73 
 
 Bastard Ebony 83 
 
 Beach Chuck.! 94 
 
 Bird's-eye Maple 84 
 
 Bit for Turning 88 
 
 Black Thorn 97 
 
 Boiler for Toy Engine 53 
 
 Boring 55 
 
 Boxes, Joints of 123 
 
 Box for Pins 62 
 
 Boxwood 81 
 
 Brushes for Varnishes 131 
 
 Burnisher 126 
 
 Buttons, Solitaire Sleeve 59 
 
 Cam Wood 81 
 
 Centers 65 
 
 Chasers 33,35 
 
 Chasing 33 
 
 Chucking 42, 49 
 
 Chucks, Geometrical 73 
 
 Chucks, Wooden 43 
 
 Clamps for Polishing 48 
 
 Cocoa Wood 80 
 
 Colored Woods 107 
 
 Coloring Maple 132 
 
 Curled Maple 84 
 
 Curving Veneers 132 
 
 Cushman's Scroll Chuck 42 
 
 Cutting Alabaster 133 
 
 Cutting Horn 133 
 
 Cutting Jet 133 
 
 Cutting Malachite 133 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Cutting Miscellaneous Materials... 133 
 
 Cnttiiig, Ornamental 59 
 
 Cutting Screws 33 
 
 Designs for Inlaying 121 
 
 Designs in Mosaic 106 
 
 Diamond Point 21 
 
 Doctor 37 
 
 Drills, Twist 75 
 
 Dyeing Ivory 118 
 
 Ebony 82 
 
 Elliptic Chuck 74 
 
 Fancy Turning 71 
 
 Finishing Outside 110 
 
 Foot Lathe 13 
 
 Foreign Woods 77 
 
 General Summary 125 
 
 Geometrical Chuck 73 
 
 Gilding 127 
 
 Glass Filing 133 
 
 Globe, and Spur within 68 
 
 Glueing in Veneers 115 
 
 Good Tools necessary 20 
 
 Granadilla 80 
 
 Hand Lathes 19 
 
 Heel Tools 27 
 
 Height of Lathe 22 
 
 Holding the Tool 23 
 
 Hole Boring 55 
 
 Holly, White 82 
 
 Holtzapfel Lathe 38 
 
 Holtzapfel, Work by 16 
 
 Horn, Cutting 133 
 
 Hubs 40 
 
 Indigenous Woods.. 77 
 
 Inlaying 97, IH 
 
 Inlaying, Designs for 121 
 
 135 
 
136 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Inlaying Stamps 102 
 
 Iron for Soldering 128 
 
 Ivory 116 
 
 Jet Cutting 133 
 
 Joints of Boxes 123 
 
 Lacquers , 126 
 
 Lac Varnish 112 
 
 Lathe, Foot 13 
 
 Lathe, Height of. 22 
 
 Lathe, Holtzapfel 38 
 
 Lathe, Speedof 23 
 
 Lathe, Uses of. 16 
 
 Lathes, Hand 19 
 
 Lanrel Root 82 
 
 Leopard Wood 78 
 
 Malachite, Cutting 133 
 
 Mandrels 38, 74 
 
 Maple, Bird's-eye 84 
 
 Maple, Coloring 132 
 
 Maple, Curled 84 
 
 Metal Spinning 51 
 
 Metals, Polishing 125 
 
 Miscellaneous Tools 131 
 
 Mosaic Designs 106 
 
 Natural Colored Woods 107 
 
 Novel Ornameut 68 
 
 Oiled Wood 113 
 
 Olive Wood 83 
 
 Ornamental Cutting 59 
 
 Ornamental Desig'is for Inlaying.. 121 
 
 Ornamental Woods 77 
 
 Ornamental Work 14 
 
 Outside Finishing 110 
 
 Parallel Holes, to hore 55 
 
 Patterns 99 
 
 Pearl 1.31 
 
 Pear Wood 85 
 
 Polishing 46, 129 
 
 Polishing Metals 125 
 
 Polishing Ivory 118 
 
 Polygon and Spurs 69 
 
 Rack for Tools 75 
 
 Rest, Slide 57 
 
 Best, The 24 
 
 Rosewood 84 
 
 Rosin Flux 127 
 
 Rouge Powder 127 
 
 Roughing off 24 
 
 Sandal Wood 83 
 
 Sawing, Scroll 123 
 
 PARE 
 
 Scrapers 30 
 
 Screw Cutting: 33 
 
 Screws, Tool fur Small 72 
 
 Scroll Chuck 73 
 
 Scroll Chuck, Cushman's 42 
 
 Scroll Sawing 123 
 
 Shellac Varnish ^ 112 
 
 Silver-plating Fluid 127 
 
 Sleeve Buttons, Solitaire .59 
 
 Slide Rest 54, 57 
 
 Snake Wood 78 
 
 Soldering 127 
 
 Soldering Iron 128 
 
 Solitaire Sleeve Buttons 59 
 
 Speed of Lathe '23 
 
 Spinning Metals. 51 
 
 Stamp Inlaying 102 
 
 Steel Mandrels 75 
 
 Straight Tools 27 
 
 Tamarind 80 
 
 Tempering Tools 92 
 
 Tinning Soldering Iron 128 
 
 Tool for Boring Holes 55 
 
 Tool for Inlaying 114 
 
 Tool for SmailScrews 72 
 
 Tool Tempering 92 
 
 Tools 22 
 
 Tools, Holding 23 
 
 Tools, Miscellaneous 131 
 
 Tools for Wood Turning 90 
 
 Traversing Mandrel 38 
 
 Treatment of Woods 85 
 
 Tulip Wood 79 
 
 Tunbridge Ware Work 101 
 
 Tuning, Fancy 71 
 
 Turning, Wood 87 
 
 Turning, Artistic Wood 96 
 
 Turtle Wood 122 
 
 Twist Drills 75 
 
 Uses of the Lathe 16 
 
 Varieties of Woods 77 
 
 Varnishing HI, 129 
 
 Veneers 104 
 
 Veneers, Curving 132 
 
 Veneers, Gluing in 115 
 
 White Glue 123 
 
 White Holly 82 
 
 Wooden Chucks 43 
 
 Wooden Mandrels 74 
 
 Woods for Inlaying 107 
 
 Woods, Ornamental 77 
 
 Wood Turning 88 
 
 Wood Turning, Artistic 96 
 
 Work, Ornamental 14 
 
CATALOGUE 
 
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 PEACTICAL Km SCIEIiTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
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 pop, Sarsaparilla-beer, Mead, Spruce beer, etc. etc. Adapted 
 to the use of Public Brewers and Private Families. By M. La 
 Fayettb Byrn, M. D. With illustrations. 12mo. $1 25 
 
 ■p YEN.— THE COMPLETE PRACTICAL DISTILLER : 
 
 Comprising the most perfect and exact Theoretical and Prac- 
 tical Description of the Art of Distillation and Rectification ; 
 including all of the most recent improvements in distilling 
 apparatus; instructions for preparing spirits from the nume- 
 rous vegetables, fruits, etc. ; directions for the distillation and 
 preparation of all kinds of brandies and other spirits, spiritu- 
 ous and other compounds, etc. etc. ; all of which is so simpli- 
 fied that it is adapted not only to the use of extensive distil- 
 lers, but for every farmer, or others who may wish to engage 
 in the art of distilling By M. La Fayette Bykn, M. D. 
 With numerous engravings. In one volume, 12mo. $1 50 
 
HENRY CAllEY BATRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 ■pYRNE.— POCKET BOOK FOB, RAILROAD AND CIVIL ENGl- 
 ■^ NEERS : 
 
 Containing New, Exaot, and Concise Methods for Laying out 
 Railroad Curves, Switches, Frog Angles and Crossings; the 
 Staking out of work; Levelling; the Calculation of Cut- 
 tings ; Embankments ; Earth-work, etc. By Oliver Btrne. 
 Illustrated, I8ino., full bound . . . . . $1 50 
 
 TDYRNE.— THE HANDBOOK FOR THE ARTISAN, MECHANIC, 
 
 •" AND ENGINEER : 
 
 By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by 11 large plates and 185 
 Wood Engravings. 8vo. , . . . . . $5 GO 
 
 ■DYRNE.— THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS OF PRACTICAL ME- 
 ■^ CHANICS : 
 
 For Engineering Students, based on the Principle of Work. 
 By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by Numerous Wood Engrav- 
 ings, 12mo. . . . . . . . . $3 63 
 
 ■pYRNE.— THE PRACTICAL METAL-WORKER'S ASSISTANT : 
 Comprising Metallurgic Chemistry ; the Arts of Working all 
 Metals and Alloys ; Forging of Iron and Steel ; Hardening and 
 Tempering ; Melting and Mixing ; Casting and Founding ; 
 Works in Sheet Metal ; the Processes Dependent on the 
 Ductility of the Metals ; Soldering ; and the most Improved 
 Processes and Tools employed by Metal-Workers. With the 
 Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to Manufactu- 
 ring Processes ; collected from Original Sources, and from the 
 AVorks of Holtzapflfel, Bergeron, Leupold, Plumier, Napier, and 
 others. By Oliver Byrne. A New, Revised, and improved 
 Edition, with Additions by John Scoffern, M. B , William Clay, 
 Wm. Fairbairn, F. R. S., and James Napier. With Five Hun- 
 dred and Ninety-two Engravings ; Illustrating every Branch 
 of the Subject. In one volume, Bvo. 652 pages . $7 00 
 
 ■pYRNE.— THE PRACTICAL MODEL CALCULATOR: 
 
 For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work, 
 Naval Architect, Miner, and Millwright. By Oliver Byrne. 
 1 volume, 8vo., nearly 600 pages . . . . $4 50 
 
 n.\BINET MAKER'S ALBUM OF FURNITURE: 
 
 Comprising a Collection of Designs for the Newest and Most 
 Elegant Styles of Furniture. Illustrated by Forty eight Largo 
 and Beautifully Engraved Plates. In one volume, oblong 
 
 $5 00 
 
IIEXKY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 HALVEET.— LECTUEES 0¥ COAL-TAS C0L0S3, A2TD Oil EE- • 
 ^ CENT IMPSOVEIdENTS AND PEOGEESS III DYSINCr AND 
 CALICO PEIKTING: 
 
 Embodying Copious Notes taken at the last London Interna- 
 tional Exhibition, and Illustrated with Numerous Patterns of 
 Aniline and other Colors. By F. Gkace Calvert, F. R. S., 
 F. C. S., Professor of Chemistry at the Royal Institution, Man- 
 chester, Corresponding Member of the Pioyal Academies of 
 Turin and Rouen; of the Pharmaceutical Society of Paris; 
 Soci^te Industrielle de Mulhouse, etc. In one volume, 8vo., 
 cloth .... . . . . . $1 50 
 
 nAMPIH.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON MECHANICAL EN- 
 ^ GINEEP.ING: ' 
 
 Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, 
 Workshop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture 
 of Steam-engines, etc. etc. "With an Appendix on the Ana- 
 lysis of Iron and Iron Oi-es. By Francis Campin, C. E. To 
 "which are added. Observations on the Construction of Steam 
 Boilers, and Remarks upon Furnaces used for Smoke Preven- 
 tion ; -with a Chapter on Explosions. By R. Armstrong, C. E., 
 and John Bourne. Rules for Calculating the Change Wheels 
 for Screws on a Turning Lathe, and for a Wheel-cutting 
 Machine. By J. La Nicca. Management of Steel, including 
 Forging, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, Shrinking, and 
 Expansion. And the Case-hardening of Iron. By G. Ede. 
 8vo. Illustrated with 29 plates and 100 wood engravings. 
 
 ^6 00 
 
 nAI€?IN.-~TIIS PRACTICE OF HAND-TURNING IN WOOD, 
 
 ^ lYORY, SHELL, ETC. : 
 
 With Instructions for Turning such works in Metal as may be 
 required in the Practice of Turning AVood, Ivory, etc. Also, 
 an Appendix on Ornamental Turning. By Francis Campin ; 
 with Numerous Illustrations, 12mo., cloth . . $3 00 
 
 ni\PEON DE DOLE— DUSSATJCE.— BLUES AND CARMINES OF 
 
 ^ INDIGO. 
 
 A Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of every Commercial 
 Product derived from Indigo. By Felicien Capron de Dole. 
 Translated, with important additions, by Professor H. Dus- 
 sauce. 12mo. . . . . . . . $2 <J0 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 nAREY.— THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY : 
 
 CONTRACTION OR EXPANSION? REPUDIATION OR RE- 
 SUMPTION? Letters to Hon. Hugh McCulloch. 8vo. 38 
 
 FINANCIAL CRISES, their Causes and Effects. 8vo. paper 
 
 25 
 
 HARMONY OF INTERESTS; Agricultural, Manufacturing, 
 
 and Commercial. 8vo., paper . . . . . $1 00 
 
 Do. do. cloth . . . $1 50 
 
 LETTERS TO THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 Paper $1 00 
 
 MANUAL OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. Condensed from Carey's 
 "Principles of Social Science." By Kate McKean. 1 vol. 
 12mo ^2 25 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS WORKS: comprising "Harmony of Inter- 
 ests," "Money," "Letters to the President," "French and 
 American Tariffs," "Financial Crises," "The Way to Outdo 
 England Trithout Fighting Her," "Resources of the Union," 
 "The Public Debt," "Contraction or Expansion," "Review 
 of the Decade 1857 — 'G7," "Reconstruction," etc. etc. 1 vol. 
 8vo., cloth $4 50 
 
 MONEY: A LECTURE before the N. Y. Geographical and Sta- 
 tistical Society. 8vo., paper ..... 25 
 
 PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. 8vo. . . . $2 50 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. 3 volumes 8vo., cloth 
 
 $10 00 
 
 REVIEW OF THE DECADE 1857— '67. 8vo., paper 38 
 
 RECONSTRUCTION: INDUSTRIAL, FINANCIAL, AND PO- 
 LITICAL. Letters to the Hon. Henry Wilson, U. S. S. 8vo. 
 paper ....'.. . . 38 
 
 THE PUBLIC DEBT, LOCAL AND NATIONAL. How to 
 provide for its discharge while lessening the burden of Taxa- 
 tion. Letter to David A. Wells, Esq., U. S. Revenue Commis- 
 sion. 8vo., paper ....... 25 
 
 THE RESOURCES OF THE UNION. A Lecture read, Dec. 
 1865, before the American Geographical and Statistical So- 
 ciety, N. Y., and before the American Association for the Ad- 
 vancement of Social Science, Boston . . . 25 
 
 THE SLAVE TRADE, DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN; Why it 
 Exists, and How it may be Extinguished. 12mo., cloth $150 
 
8 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 THE WAY TO OUTDO ENGLAND WITHOUT FIGHTING 
 HER. Letters to the Hon. Schuyler Colfax. 8vo., paper 75 
 
 riAMUS.— A TEEATISS ON THE TEETH OF WHEELS: 
 
 Demonstrating the best forms which can be given to them for the 
 purposes of Machinery, such as Mill-work .and Clo'-.k-work. Trans- 
 Lited from the French of M. Camus. By Jchn I. Hawkins. 
 Illustrated by 40 plates. 8vo. $3 00 
 
 niQUGH.— THE CONTEACTOE'S MANUAL AND BUILDER'S 
 ^ PRICE-BOOK : 
 
 Designed to elucidate the method of ascertaining, correctly, 
 the value and Quantity of every description of Work and Ma- 
 terials used in the Art of Building, from their Prime Cost in 
 any part of the United States, collected from extensive expe- 
 rience and observation in Building and Designing; to which 
 are added a large variety of Tables, Memoranda, etc., indis- 
 pensable to all engaged or concerned in erecting buildings of 
 any kind. By A. B. Clough, Architect, 24mo., cloth 75 
 
 nOLBURN.— THE GAS-WORKS OF LONDON: 
 
 Comprising a sketch of the Gas-works of the city, Process of 
 Manufacture, Quantity Produced, Cost, Profit, etc. By Zerah 
 CoLBURN. 8vo., cloth 75 
 
 nOLBURN.— THE LOCOMOTIVE ENGINE: 
 
 Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimat- 
 ing its Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construc- 
 tion and Management. By Zerah Colburn. Illustrated. A 
 new edition. 12mo. $1 25 
 
 nOLBURN AND MAW.— THE WATER-V/ORKS OF LONDON : 
 Together with a Series of Articles on various otiier Water- 
 works. By Zerah Colbwrn and W. Maw. Reprinted from 
 "Engineering." In one volume, 8vo. . . $1 00 
 
 ■HAGUERREOTYPIST AND PHOTOGRAPHER'S COMPANION: 
 
 ^ 12mo., cloth $1 25 
 
 TJUPLAIS,— A COMPLETE TREATISE ON" THE DISTILLATION 
 ^ AND PREPARATION OF ALCOHOLIC AND OTHER LIQ- 
 
 UORS: 
 
 From the French of M. Duplais. Translated and Edited by M. 
 
 McKennie, M. D, Illustrated, 8vo. {I/t. jiress-) 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 ■HESSOYE— STEEL, ITS MANUFACTURE, PSOPEETISS, AKD 
 
 ■*-' USE. 
 
 By J. B'. J. Dessote, Manufacturer of Steel; •with an Intro- 
 duction and Notes by Ed. Graten, Engineer of Mines. 
 Translated from the French. In one volume, 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 ■niKCKS.— PEKPETUAL MOTION : 
 
 Or Search for Self-Motive Power during the 17th, 18th, and 
 19th centuries. Illustrated from various authentic sources in 
 Papers, Essays, Letters, Paragraphs, and numerous Patent 
 Specifications, with an Introductory Essay by Henry Dircks, 
 C. E. Illustrated by numerous engravings of machines. 
 12mo., cloth ^3 50 
 
 ■niXON.— THE PSACTICAL MILLWRIGHT'S AND ENGINEER'S 
 ■^ GUIDE : 
 
 Or Tables for Finding the Diameter and Power of Cogwheels ; 
 Diameter, Weight, and Power of Shafts ; Diameter and Strength 
 of Bolts, etc. etc. By Thobias Dixon. 12mo., cloth. $1 50 
 
 ■nUNC AN.— PRACTICAL SURVEYOR'S GUIDE: 
 
 Containing the necessary information to make any person, of 
 common capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of 
 a teacher. By Andrew Duncan. Illustrated. 12mo., cloth. 
 
 $1 25 
 •nUSSAUCE.— A NEW AND COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE 
 ■^ ARTS OF TANNING, CURRYING, AND LEATHER DRESS- 
 ING : 
 
 Comprising all the Discoveries and Improvements made in 
 France, Great Britain, and the United States. Edited from 
 Notes and Documents of Messrs. Sallerou, Grouvelle, Duval, 
 Dessables, Labarraque, Payen, Ren6, De Fontenelle, Mala- 
 peyre, etc. etc. By Prof. H. Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated 
 by 212 wood engravings. 8vo $10 00 
 
 TJUSSAUCE.— A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE 
 •'-' OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF SOAP : 
 
 Comprising the Chemistry of the Art, with Remarks on Alka- 
 lies, Saponifiable Fatty Bodies, the apparatus necessary in a 
 Soap Factory, Practical Instructions on the manufacture of 
 the various kinds of Soap, the assay of Soaps, etc. etc. Edited 
 from notes of Larme, Fontenelle, Malapeyre, Dufour, and 
 others, with large and important additions by Professor H. 
 
 Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated. In one volume, Svo. 
 
 $10 Oli 
 
10 HE^^RY CARET BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 "nUSSAUCE.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOE THE PERFUMER : 
 
 Being a New Treatise on Perfumery the most favorable to the 
 Beauty without being injurious to the Health, comprising a 
 Description of the substances used in Perfumery, the Form- 
 ula of more than one thousand Preparations, such as Cosme- 
 tics, Perfumed Oils, Tooth Powders, Waters, Extracts, Tinc- 
 tures, Infusions, Vinaigres, Essential Oils, Pastels, Creams, 
 Soaps, and many new Hygienic Products not hitherto described. 
 Edited from Notes and Documents of Messrs. Debay, Lunel, 
 etc. Withadditions by Professor H. DussArcE, Chemist. 12mo. 
 press, shortly to be issued.) $3 00 
 
 •nUSSAUCE.— PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE FABRICATION 
 •^ OF MATCHES, GUN COTTON, AND FULMINATING POW- 
 DERS. 
 
 By Professor H. Dussauce. 12mo. . . . $3 00 
 
 •nUSSAUCE.— A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE 
 ■^ OF VINEGAR, THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL. 
 
 •Comprising the various methods, by the slow and the quick pro- 
 cesses, with Alcohol, Wine, Grain, Cider, and Molasses, as well 
 as the Fabrication of Wood Vinegar, etc. By Prof. H. Dossauce. 
 i2mo. (In press.) 
 
 D 
 
 E GRAFF. -THE GEOMETRICAL STAIR-BUILDERS' GUIDE : 
 Being a Plain Practical System of Hand-Railing, embracing all 
 its necessary Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by 22 Steel 
 Engravings : together with the use of the most approved princi- 
 ples of Practical Geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect. 
 4to. $5 00 
 
 ■HYER Ai^D COLOS-MAXER'S COMPANION : 
 
 Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Co- 
 lors, on the most approved principles, for all the various styles 
 and fabrics now in existence ; with the Scouring Process, and 
 plain Directions for Preparing, Washing-oflF, and Finishing the 
 Goods. In one vol. 12mo $1 25 
 
 pASTON.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON STREET OR HORSE- 
 
 •'-' POWER RAILWAYS : 
 
 Their Location, Construction, and Management ; with General 
 Plans and Rules for their Organization and Operation ; toge- 
 ther with Examinations as to their Comparative Advantages 
 over the Omnibus System, and Inquiries as to their Value for 
 Investment ; including Copies of Municipal Ordinances relat- 
 ing thereto. By Alexander Easton, C. E. Illustrated by 23 
 plates, 8vo., cloth . . . . . , . $2 00 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 11 
 
 pOESYTH.— BOOK OF DSSIGNS FOR HEAD-STONES, MURAL, 
 *■ AND OTHER MONUMENTS : 
 
 Containing 78 Elaborate and Exquisite Designs. By Foksyth. 
 
 4to. (Inpress) 
 
 pAIRBAIRN.— THE PRINCIPLES OF MECHANISM AND MA- 
 
 ^ CHINERY OF TRANSMISSION : 
 
 Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, Wheels, and Pulleys, 
 Strength and Proportions of Shafts, Couplings of Shafts, and 
 Engaging and Disengaging Gear. By William Fairbaikn, 
 Esq., C. E., LL. D., F. R. S., F. G. S., Corresponding Member 
 of the National Institute of France, and of the Royal Academy 
 of Turin ; Chevalier of the Legion of Honor, etc. etc. Beau- 
 tifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. In one Tolume*12mo. 
 
 $2 50 
 
 pAIRBAIRN.— PRIME-MOVERS : 
 
 Comprising the Accumulation of Water-power; the Construc- 
 tion of Water-wheels and Turbines ; the Properties of Steam ; 
 the Varieties of Steam-engines and Boilers and Wind-mills. 
 By William Faireairn, C. E , LL. U., F. R. S., F. G. S. Au- 
 thor of "Principles of Mechanism and the Machinery of Trans- 
 mission." With Numerous Illustratiofas. In one volume. (In 
 press.) 
 
 pLAMM.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF 
 ^ ECONOMICAL HEATING APPLICATIONS FOR SOLID AND 
 GASEOUS FUELS : 
 
 With the Application of Concentrated Heat, and on Waste 
 Heat, for the Use of Engineers, Architects, Stove and Furnace 
 Makers, Manufacturers of Fire Brick, Zinc, Porcelain, Glass, 
 Earthenware, Steel, Chemical Products,' Sugar Refiners, Me- 
 tallurgists, and all others employing Heat. By M. Pierre 
 Flamm, Manufacturer. Illustrated. Translated from the 
 French. One volume, 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 niLBART.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON BANKING: 
 
 By James William Gilbart. To which is added: The Na- 
 tional Bank Act as now (1868) in force. 8vo. $4 50 
 
12 HENET CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 n OTHIC ALBUM FOE CABINET MAKERS : 
 
 Comprising a Collection of Designs for Gothic Furniture. Il- 
 lustrated by twenty-three large and beautifully engraved 
 plates. Oblong $3 00 
 
 G 
 
 G 
 
 EANT.— BEET-ROOT SUGAR AND CULTIVATION OF THE 
 BEET: 
 By E. B. Grant. 12mo §1 25 
 
 mEGORY.— MATHEMATICS FOR PRACTICAL MEN : 
 
 Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, 
 and Civil Engineers. By Olinthus Gregory. 8vo., plates, 
 cloth ^3 00 
 
 RISWOLD.— RAILROAD ENGINEER'S POCKET COMPANION. 
 
 Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and 
 Angles, Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary 
 Tables for Engineers ; also the art of Levelling from Prelimi- 
 nary Survey to the Construction of Railroads, intended Ex- 
 pressly for the Young Engineer, together with Numerous Valu- 
 able Rules and Examples. By W. Griswold. 12mo., tucks. 
 
 $1 50 
 
 pUETTIER.— METALLIC ALLOYS: 
 
 Being a Practical Guide to their Chemical and Physical Pro- 
 perties, their Preparation, Composition, and Uses. Translated 
 from the French of A. Guettiee, Engineer and Director of 
 Founderies, author of " La Fouderie en France," etc. etc. By 
 A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In one volume, 12mo. 
 (In press, shortly to be published.) 
 
 TTATS AND FELTING: 
 
 A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical 
 Hatter. Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, &c., 8vo. 
 
 •jTAY.— THE INTERIOR DECORATOR : 
 
 The Laws of Harmonious Coloring adapted to Interior Decora- 
 tions : with a Practical Treatise on House-Painting. By D. 
 R. Hay, House-Painter and Decorator. Illustrated by a Dia- 
 gram of the Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary Colors. 12mo. 
 
 $2 25 
 
 TTUGHES.— AMERICAN MILLER AND MILLWRIGHT'S AS- 
 
 ^ SISTANT : 
 
 By Wm. Carter Hughes. A new edition. In one volume, 
 12mo. .... . . . . I$i &U 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 13 
 
 ITUNT.— THE PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 By Robert Hunt, Vice-President of the Photographic Society, 
 London, with numerous illustrations. 12mo., cloth . 75 
 
 TTTTRST.— A HAND-BOOK FOR ARCHITECTURAL SURVEYORS : 
 
 Comprising Formulas useful in Designing Builder's work, Table 
 of Weights, of the materials used in Building, Memoranda 
 connected with Builders' work. Mensuration, the Practice of 
 Builders' Measurement, Contracts of Labor, Valuation of Pro- 
 perty, Summary of the Practice in Dilapidation, etc. etc. By 
 J. F. Hurst, C. E. 2d edition, pocket-book form, full bound 
 
 $2 50 
 TERVIS.— RAILWAY PROPERTY : 
 
 A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways ; 
 designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the 
 holders of this class of property ; as well as Railway Mana- 
 gers, Officers, and Agents. By John B. Jervis, late Chief 
 Engineer of the Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, &c. 
 One vol. 12mo., cloth $2 00 
 
 JOHNSON.— A REPORT TO THE NAVY DEPARTMENT OF THE 
 
 " UNITED STATES ON AMERICAN COALS : 
 
 Applicable to Steam Navigation and to other purposes. By 
 Walter R. Johnson. With numerous illustrations. 607 pp. 
 8 vo., half morocco f 6 00 
 
 TOHNSOK.— THE COAL TRADE OF BRITISH AMERICA : 
 
 With Researches on the Characters and Practical Values of 
 American and Foreign Coals. By Walter R. Johnson, Civil 
 and Mining Engineer and Chemist. 8vo. . . . $2 00 
 
 JOHNSTON.— INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ANALYSIS OF SOILS, 
 " LIMESTONES, AND MANURES. 
 
 By J. W. F. Johnston. 12mo 38 
 
 TT-EENE.—A HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL GAUGING, 
 
 For the Use of Beginners, to which is added A Chapter on Dis- 
 tillation, describing the process in operation at the Custom 
 House for ascertaining the strength of wines. By James B. 
 Keene, of H. M. Customs. 8vo. . . . ■ . $1 25 
 
 jT-ENTISH,- A TREATISE ON A BOX OF INSTRUMENTS, 
 
 And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Lo- 
 garithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measur- 
 ing of Timber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances. 
 By Thomas Kentish. In one volume. 12mo. . $1 25 
 
14 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 irOBELL.—EKl^I,— MINERALOGY SIMPLIFIED : 
 
 A short method of Determining and Classifying Minerals, by 
 means of simple Chemical Experiments in the Wet Way. 
 Translated from the last German Edition of F. Von Kobell, 
 with an Introduction to Blowpipe Analysis and other addi- 
 tions. By Henei Ernt, M. D., Chief Chemist, Department of 
 Agriculture, author of " Coal Oil and Petroleum." In one 
 volume, 12mo. $2 50 
 
 T AFFIITETIIl — A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO HYDRAULICS FOR 
 •^ TOWN AND COUNTRY; 
 
 Or a Complete Treatise on the Building of Conduits for Water 
 for Cities, Towns, Farms, Country Residences, Workshops, etc. 
 Comprising the means necessary for obtaining at all times 
 abundant supplies of Drinkable Water. Translated from 
 the French of M. Jules Laffineur, C. E. Illustrated. (In 
 press.) 
 
 T AFFINEUR.— A TREATISE ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WA- 
 ■'-' TER- WHEELS : 
 
 Containing the various Systems in use with Practical Informa- 
 tion on the Dimensions necessary for Shafts, Journals, Arms, 
 etc., of Water-wheels, etc. etc. Translated from the French 
 of M. Jules Laffineuk, C. E. Illustrated by numerous 
 plates. (In press.) 
 
 T ANDRIN.— A TREATISE ON STEEL: 
 
 Comprising the Theory, Metallurgy, Practical Working, Pro- 
 perties, and Use. Translated from the French of H. C. Lan- 
 DRiN, Jr., C. E. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. 
 Illustrated. 12mo. $3 OO 
 
 T ARKIN.— THE PRACTICAL BRASS AND IRON FOUNDER'S 
 ■^ GUIDE : 
 
 A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metala 
 and their Alloys, etc. ; to which are added Recent Improve- 
 ments in the Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Pro- 
 cess, etc. etc. By James Laekin, late Conductor of the Brass 
 Foundry Department in Reany, Neafie & Co.'s Penn Works, 
 Philadelphia. Fifth edition, revised, with Extensive addi- 
 tions. In one volume, 12mo. ..... . . $2 25 
 
HENRY CAREY BATRD'S CATALOGUE. 15 
 
 T EAVITT.— FACTS ABOUT PEAT AS AN AETICLE OF FUELi 
 
 V/ith Remarks upon its Origin and Composition, the Localities 
 m -which it is found, the Methods of Preparation and Manu- 
 facture, and the various Uses to which it is applicable ; toge- 
 ther with many other matters of Practical and Scientific Inte- 
 rest. To which is added a chapter on the Utilization of Coal 
 Dust with Peat for the Production of an Excellent Fuel at 
 Moderate Cost, especially adapted for Steam Service. By H. 
 T. Leavitt. Third edition. 12mo. . . . $1 75 
 
 TEaOUX— A PRACTICAL TEEATI3E QUI THE MANUFAC- 
 
 ^ TURK OF WJjJSIEDd AisD CA.iiDED YAEFS : 
 
 Translated from the French of Charles Leuoux, Mechanical 
 Engineer, and Superintendent of a Spinning Mill. By Dr, H. 
 Paine, and A. A. Fesqdet. Illustrated by 12 hirge plates . In 
 one volume 8vo. . . . . . . . . $5 00 
 
 TESLIE (MISS).— COMPLETE COOKERY: 
 
 Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss 
 Leslie. 58th thousand. Thoroughly revised, with the addi- 
 tion of New Receipts. In 1 vol. 12mo., cloth . , $1 25 
 
 T ESLIE (MISS). LADIES' HOUSE BOOK : 
 
 a Manual of Domestic Economy. 20th revised edition. 12mo., 
 cloth $1 25 
 
 TESLIE (MISS).— TWO HUNDRED RECEIPTS IN FRENCH 
 •^ COOKERY. 
 
 12mo 50 
 
 T lEBER.— ASSAYER'S GUIDE : 
 
 Or, Practical. Directions to Assayers, Mir.ers, and Smelters, for 
 the Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the 
 Ores of all the principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins and 
 Alloys, and of Coal, etc. By Oscar M. Lieber. 12mo., cloth 
 
 $1 25 
 
 T OVE.— THE ART OF DYEING, CLEANING, SCOURING, AND 
 
 •^ FINISHING : 
 
 On the most approved English and French methods; being 
 Practical Instructions in Dyeing Silks, Woollens, and Cottons, 
 Feathers, Chips, Straw, etc.; Scouring and Cleaning Bed and 
 Window Curtains, Carpets, Rugs, etc.; French and Eng-lish 
 Cleaning, etc. By Thomas Love. Second American EJition, to 
 which are added General Instructions for the Use of Aniline 
 Colors. 8vo 5 »0 
 
16 HENRY CAHEY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 •lyrnN and brdw.^.— questions on subjects connected 
 
 iV-l- with the marine STEAM-ENGINE : 
 
 And Examinatioa Papers ; with Hints for their Solution. By 
 Thomas J. Main, Professor of Mathematics, Iloyal Naval Col- 
 lege, and TuoMAS Brown, Chief Engineer, R. N. 12mo., cloth 
 
 $1 50 
 
 -jyTAIN ANDBEOWN— THE INDICATOR AND DYNAMOMETER; 
 With their Practical Applications to the Steam-Engine. By 
 Thomas J. Main, M. A. F. R., Ass't Prof. Royal Naval College, 
 Portsmouth, and Thomas Bkown, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Chief En- 
 gineer, R. N., attached to the R. N. College. Illustrated. 
 From the Fourth London Edition. 8vo. . . . $1 50 
 
 TUTAIN AND BROWN— THE MARINE STEAM-ENGINE. 
 ■"■^ By Thomas J. Main, F. R. Ass't S. Mathematical Professor at 
 Pioyal Naval College, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. lust. C. E. 
 Chief Engineer, R. N. Attached to the Royal Naval College. 
 /#athors of " Questions connected with the Marine Steam-En- 
 gine," and the "Indicator and Dynamometer." With nume- 
 rous Illustrations. In one volume, 8vo. . . . $5 00 
 MORTIMER.— THE PYROTECHNIST'S COMPANION: 
 Or, a Familictr System of Recreative Fireworks. By G. W. 
 MoRTiMEK. Illustrated ]2mo. . . . • . $1 25 
 
 Contents. — Introduction. Of Gunpowder, Materials, Appara- 
 tus, Division of Fireworks, Single Fireworks, Rockets, Tables of 
 Various Compositions, Compound Fireworks. 
 
 MARTIN — SCEEW-CUTTING TABLES, FOR THE USE OF ME- 
 CHANICAL ENGINEERS : 
 
 Showing the Proper Arrangement of Wheels for Cutting the 
 Threads of Screws of any required Pitch ; with a Table for 
 Making the Universal Gas-Pipe Thread and Taps. By W. A. 
 Martin, Engineer. 8vo. 50 
 
 MILES.— A PLAIN TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 With illustrations. By William Miles, author of "The 
 Horse's Foot," $1 00 
 
 M3LESW0RTH. POCKET-BOOK OF USEFUL FORMULA AND 
 MEMORANDA FOR CIVIL AND MECHANICAL ENGI- 
 NEERS. 
 
 By Guilford L. Molesworth, Member of the Institution of 
 Civil Engineers, Chief Resident Engineer of the Ceylon Rail- 
 way. Second American, from the Tenth London Edition. In 
 one volume, full bound in pocket-book form . . $2 00 
 
HENRY CAr.EY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 17 
 
 M 
 
 Don's.— THE INVENTOR'S GUIDE: 
 
 Patent Office and Patent Laws ; or, a Guide to Inventors, and 
 a Book of Reference for Judges, Lawyers, Magistrates, and 
 others. By J. G. Moore. 12mo., cloth . . $1 25 
 
 lyjAPIER.— A SYSTEM OF CHEMISTRY APPLIED TO DYEING: 
 
 ^ By James Napier, F. C S. A New and Thoroughly Revised 
 Edition, completely brought up to the present state of the 
 Science, including the Chemistry of Coal Tar Colors. By A. A. 
 Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendi.x; on Dyeing 
 and Calico Printing, as shown at the Paris Universal Exposition 
 of 1867, from the Reports of the International Jury, etc Illus- 
 trated. In one volume 8vo., 400 pages . . . . $5 06 
 
 TO-APIER.— A MANUAL OF DYEING RECEIPTS FOR GENERAL 
 
 ^^ USE. 
 
 By J.\MES Napier, F. C S. Wlih Numerous Tatterns of Diied 
 Cloth and Silk. Second edition, revised and enlarged. 12 mo. 
 
 $) 75 
 
 |n"APIER.— MANUAL OF ELECTRO-METALLURGY: 
 
 Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing Pro- 
 cesses. By James Napiek. Fourth American, from the 
 Fourth London edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated by 
 engravings. In one volume, 8vo. . . . . $2 00 
 
 ■VTEWBERY. — GLEANINGS FROM ORNAMENTAL ART OF 
 
 •^^ EVERY STYLE; 
 
 Drawu from Examples in the British, South Kensington, In- 
 dian, Crystal Palace, and other Museums, the Exhibitions of 
 1851 and 1862, and the best English and Foreign works. In 
 a series of one hundred exquisitely drawn Plates, containing 
 many hundred examples. By Robert Newbert. 4to. $15 00 
 
 "VriCHOLSON.— .\ MANUAL OF THE ART OF BOOK-BINDING : 
 
 Containing full instructions in the different Branches of For- 
 warding, Gilding, and Finishing. Also, the Art of Marbling 
 Book-edges and Paper. By James B. Nicholson. Illus- 
 trated. 12mo., cloth $2 25 
 
 ■jyJORRIS.— A HAND-BOOKFOR LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERS AND 
 ■^^ MACHINISTS : 
 
 Comprising the Proportions and Calculations for Constructing 
 Locomotives ; Manner of Setting Valves ; Tables of Squares, 
 Cubes, Areas, etc. etc. By Septimus Norris, Civil and Me- 
 chanical Engineer. New edition. Illustrated, 12mo., cloth 
 
 $1 00 
 
IR HENRY CAKEY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 W 
 
 
 
 YSTEOM. — ON TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION AND THE 
 CONSTKUCTION OF SHIPS AND SCSEW PHOPELLERS : 
 
 For Naval and Marine Engineers. By John W. Nystrom, lato 
 Acting Chief Engineer U. S. N. Second edition, revised with 
 additional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. 12mo. 
 
 $2 50 
 NEILL.— A DICTIONARY OF DYEING AND CALICO PRINT- 
 ING; 
 
 Containing a brief account of all the Substances and Processes in 
 use in the Art of Dyeing and Printing Textile Fabrics : with Prac- 
 tical Receipts and Scientific Information. By Charles O'Neill, 
 Analytical Chemist ; Fellow of the Chemical Society of London ; 
 Member of the Literary and Philosophical Society of Manchester ; 
 Author of "Chemistry of Calico Printing and Dyeing." To which 
 is added An Essay on CoalTar Colors and their Application to 
 Dyeing and Calico Printing. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and 
 Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and Calico Printing, an 
 shown at the Exposition of 1867, from the Reports of the Inter- 
 nationalJury, etc. In one volume 8vo., 491 pages. . $6 00 
 
 QVSRMAN— OSBOEN.— TEE MANUFACTURE OF IRON IN ALL 
 
 ^ ITS BRANCHES : 
 
 Including a Practical Description of the various Fuels and 
 their Values, the Nature, Determination and Preparation of 
 the Ore, the Erection and Management of Blast and other Fur- 
 naces, the characteristic results of Worliing by Charcoal, 
 Coke, or Anthracite, the Conversion of the Crude into the va- 
 rious kinds of Wrought Iron, and the Methods adapted to this 
 end. Also, a Description of Forge Hammers, Rolling Mills, 
 Blast Engines, &c. &c. To which is added an Essay on the 
 Manufacture of Steel. By Frederick Overman, Mining En- 
 gineer. The whole thoroughly revised and enlarged, adapted 
 to the latest Improvements and Discoveries, and the particular 
 type of American Methods of Manufacture. With various 
 new engravings illustrating the whole subject. By H. S. Os- 
 BORN, LL. D. Professor of Mining and Metallurgy in Lafay- 
 ette College. In one volume, 8vo. $10 00 
 
 piINTER, GILDER, AND VARNISHER'S COMPANION : 
 
 Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating to 
 the Arts of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing, and Glass Staining, 
 with numerous useful and valuable Receipts; Tests for the 
 Detection of Adulterations in Oils and Colors, and a statement 
 of the Diseases and Accidents to which Painters, Gilders, and 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 19 
 
 Varnishers are particularly liable, with the simplest methods 
 of Prevention and Remedy. With Directions for Graining. 
 Marbling, Sign Writing, and Gilding on Glass. To which are 
 added Complete Instructions for Coach Painting and Var- 
 nishing. 12mo., cloth . . ... $1 50 
 
 pALLETT.— THE MILLER'S, MILLWRIGHT'S, AND ENGI- 
 ■^ NEER'S GUIDE. 
 
 By Henry Pallett. Illustrated. In one vol. 12mo. $8 00 
 pSRKINS.— GAS AND VENTILATION. 
 
 Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. With Special Re- 
 lation to Illuminating, Heating, and Cooking by Gas. Includ- 
 ing Scientific Helps to Engineer-students and others. With 
 illustrated Diagrams. By E. E. Perkins. 12mo., cloth $1 25 
 
 pERKINS AND STOWE.— A NEW GUIDE TO THE SEEET- 
 •^ IRON AND BOILER PLATE ROLLER : 
 
 Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and 
 Piles to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and 
 the Sizes of Bars to produce Sheet-iron; the Thickness of the 
 Bar Gauge in Decimals ; the Weight per foot, and the Thick- 
 ness on the Bar or Wire Gauge of the fractional parts of an 
 inch; the Weight per sheet, and the Thickness on the Wii-e 
 Gauge of Sheet- iron of various dimensions to weigh 112 lbs. 
 per bundle ; and the conversion of Short Weight into Long 
 Weight, and Long Weight into Short. Estimated and collected 
 by G. H. Perkins and J. G. Stowe . . , . $2 50 
 
 p:iILLIPS AND DARLINGTON— RECORDS OF MINING AND 
 
 ^ METALLURGY : 
 
 Or Facts and Memoranda for the use of the Mine Agent and 
 Smelter. By J. Arthor Phillips, Mining Engineer, Graduate 
 of the Imperial School of Mines, France, etc., and John Dar- 
 lington. Illustrated by numerous engravings. In one vol- 
 ume, 12mo $2 00 
 
 pSADAL, MALEPEYRE, AND DUSSAUCE. — A COMPLETE 
 
 ^ TREATISE ON PERFUMERY : 
 
 Containing notices of the Raw Material used in the Art, and the 
 Best Formulte. According to the most approved Methods fol- 
 lowed in France, England, and the United States. By M. 
 P, Pradal, Perfumer Chemist, and M. F. Malepeyrb. Trans- 
 lated from the French, with extensive additions, by Professor 
 IT. DussAUCE. 8vo . $10 00 
 
20 HENRY CAE.EY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 pHOTEAUX— PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR THE MANUFACTURE 
 ^ OF PAPER AND BOARDS. 
 
 By A. Proteaux, Civil Engineei", and Graduate of the School 
 of Arts and A[anufactures, Director of Thiers's Paper Mill, 
 'Puy-de-D6me. With additions, by L. S. Le Normand. 
 Translated from the French, with Notes, by Horatio Paine, 
 A. B., M. D. To which is added a Chapter on the Manufac- 
 ture of Paper from Wood in the United States, by Henry T. 
 Brown, of the "American Artisan." Illustrated by six plates, 
 containing Drawings of Raw Materials, Machinery, Plans of 
 Paper-Mills, etc. etc. 8vo $5 00 
 
 •DEGNAULT.— ELEMENTS OF CHEMISTRY. 
 
 By M. V. Regnault. Translated from the French by T. 
 Forrest Betton, jM.D., and edited, with notes, by James C. 
 Booth, Melter and Refiner U. S. Mint, and Wm. L. Faber, 
 Metallurgist and Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700 
 wood engravings. Comprising nearly 1500 pages. In two 
 volumes, 8vo., cloth $10 00 
 
 TJEID.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE O? 
 
 •^ PORTLAND CEMENT; 
 
 By IIenrv Reid, C. E. To which is added a Translation of M. 
 A Lipiwitz's Work, describing a new method adopted in Germany 
 of Manufacturing that Cement. By W. F. Reid. Illustrated by 
 plates and wood engravings. 8vo $7 00 
 
 OHUNK— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON RAILWAY CURVES 
 '^ -AND LOCATION, FOR YOUNG ENGINEERS. 
 
 By Wm. F. Shunk, Civil Engineer. 12mo. . . $1 50 
 
 OMEATON— BUILDER'S POCKET COMPANION: 
 
 Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Archi- 
 tecture ; with Practical Rules and Instructions connected with 
 the subject. By A. C. Sjieaton, Civil Engineer, etc. In 
 one volume, 12mo $1 50 
 
 OMITH— THE DYER'S INSTRUCTOR: 
 
 Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, 
 Cotton, Wool, and Worsted, and Woollen Goods: containing 
 nearly 800 Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art 
 of Padding ; and the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeids, and 
 Handkerchiefs, and the various Mordants and Colors for the 
 different styles of such work. By David Smith, Pattern 
 Dyer. 12mo., cloth. $3 00 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 21 
 
 OMITH.— PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS : 
 
 Or Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public 
 Parks, and Gardens. By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape 
 Gardener and Garden Architect, etc. etc. 12mo. . $2 25 
 
 OTOKES.— CABINET-MAKER'S AND UPHOLSTERER'S COMPA- 
 *^ NION : 
 
 Comprising the Rudiments and Principles of Cabinet-making 
 and Upholstery, with Familiar Instructions, Illustrated by Ex- 
 amples for attaining a Proficiency in the Art of Drawing, as 
 applicable to Cabinet-work ; The Processes of Veneering, In- 
 laying, and Buhl-work ; the Art of Dyeing and Staining Wood, 
 Bone, Tortoise Shell, etc. Directions for Lackering, Japan- 
 ning, and Varnishing ; to make French Polish ; to prepare the 
 Best Glues, Cements, and Compositions, and a number of Re- 
 ceipts particularly for workmen generally. By J. Stokes. In 
 one vol. 12mo. With illustrations . . . . $1 25 
 
 STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS. 
 
 Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Proper- 
 ties of Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines 
 for Testing Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in ser- 
 vice. By Officers of the Ordnance Department U. S. Army 
 By authority of the Secretary of War. Illustrated by 25 large 
 steel plates. In 1 vol. quarto $10 00 
 
 rjiABLES SHOWING THE WEIGHT OF ROUND, SQUARE, AND 
 •*• FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC., 
 
 By Measurement. Cloth 63 
 
 mAYLOR,— STATISTICS OF COAL : 
 
 Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in Arts 
 and Manufactures; with their Geographical, Geological, and 
 Commercial Distribution and amount of Production and Con- 
 sumption on the American Continent. With Incidental Sta- 
 tistics of the Iron Manufacture. By R. C. Taylok. Second 
 edition, revised by S. S. Haldeman. Illustrated by five Maps 
 and many wood engravings. 8vo., cloth . . . $6 00 
 
 rpEMPLETON.— THE PRACTICAL EXAMINATOR ON STEAM 
 
 •^ AND THE STEAM-ENGINE : 
 
 With Instructive References relative thereto, for the Use of 
 Engineers, Students, and others. By Wm. Templeton, Engi- 
 neer. 12mo $1 25 
 
22 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 rjiHOMAS.— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 By R. W. Thomas, F. C. S. 8vo., cloth ... 75 
 
 rpHOMSON.— FREIGHT CHARGES CALCULATOR. 
 
 By Andrew Thomson, Freight Agent . . . $1 25 
 
 rpURUBULL.— THE ELECTRO-MAGNETIC TELEGRAPH : 
 
 With an Historical. Account of its Rise, Progress, and Present 
 Condition. Also, Practical Suggestions in regard to Insula- 
 tion and Protection from the effects of Lightning. Together 
 "with an Appendix, containing several important Telegraphic 
 Devices and Laws. By Lawrence Tnrneull, M. D., Lectu- 
 rer on Technical Chemistry at the Franklin Institute. Revised 
 and improved. Illustrated. 8vo. . . . $3 00 
 
 npjRNER'S (THE) COMPANION: 
 
 Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric 
 Turning; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instru- 
 ments ; and Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill, 
 Vertical Cutter, and Circular Rest; with Patterns and Instruc- 
 tions for working them. A new edition in one vol. 12mo. 
 
 $1 50 
 
 TTLSICH— DTISSAUCE.— A COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE ART 
 
 ^ OF DYEING COTTON AND WOOL: 
 
 As practised in Paris, Rouen, Mulhausen, and Germany. 
 From the French of M. Louis Ulrich, a Practical Dyer in 
 the principal Manufactories of Paris, Rouen, Mulhausen, etc. 
 etc. ; to which are added the most important Receipts for Dye- 
 ing Wool, as practised in the Manufacture Imperials des Go- 
 belins, Paris. By Professor H. Dtjesauoe. 12mo. $3 50 
 
 TTRBIN— BRTJLL. — A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR PUDDLING 
 
 ^ IRON Al^D STEEL. 
 
 By Ed. Urbin, Engineer of Arts and Manufactures. A Prize 
 Essay read before the Association of Engineers, Graduate of 
 the School of Mines, of Liege, Belgium, at the Meeting of 
 ]865 — 6. To which is added a Comparison of the Resisting 
 Properties of Iron and Steel. By A. Brull. Translated 
 from the French by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In 
 oae volume, Bvo. . $1 00 
 
 WATSON.— A MANUAL OF THE HAND-LATHE. 
 
 By Egbert P. Watson, Late of the "Scientific American," 
 Author of "Modern Practice of American Machinists and 
 Engineers." In one volume, 12mo. $1 50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 23 
 
 WATSON— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF AMERICAN MA- 
 ''' CHINISTS AND ENGINEERS : 
 
 Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills, 
 Lathe Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow Work 
 Generally, with the most Economical Speed of the same, the 
 Results verified by Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vice, and 
 on the Floor. Together with Workshop management. Economy 
 of Manufacture, the Steam-Engine, Boilers, Gears, Belting, etc. 
 etc. By Egbert P. Watson, late of the " Scientific American." 
 Illustrated by eighty-six engravings. 12mo. . . $2 50 
 
 WATSON.— THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF THE ART OF 
 '''' WEAVING BY HAND AND POWER: 
 
 With Calculations and Tables for the iise of those connected 
 with the Trade. By John Watson, Manufacturer and Prac- 
 tical Machine Maker. Illustrated by large drawings of the 
 best Power-Looms. 8vo. $10 00 
 
 WE ATHERLY.— TREATISE ON THE ART OF BOILING STJ- 
 '''' GAR, CRYSTALLIZING, LOZENGE-MAKING, COMFITS, 
 GUM GOODS, 
 
 And other processes for Confectionery, &c. In which are ex- 
 plained, in an easy and familiar manner, the various Methods 
 of Manufacturing every description of Raw and Refined sugar 
 Goods, as sold by Confectioners and others . . $2 00 
 
 LL.— TABLES FOR QUALITATIVE CHEMICAL ANALYSIS. 
 By Prof. Heinrich Will, of Giessen, Germany. Seventh edi- 
 tion. Translated by Charles F. Himes, Ph. D., Professor of 
 Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, Pa. . $1 25 
 
 WILLIAMS.— ON HEAT AND STEAM : 
 
 Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation, and 
 Expansion. By Charles Wye Williams, A. I. C. E. Illus- 
 trated. 8vo. $3 50 
 
 WOHLER.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON ANALYTICAL CHEM- 
 '''' ISTRY. 
 
 By F. WoHLER. With additions by Grandeau and Troost. 
 Edited by H. B. Nason, Professor of Chemistry, Rensselaer 
 Institute, Troy, N. Y. With numerous Illustrations. {In press. ) 
 
 WORSSAM.— ON MECHANICAL SAWS : 
 
 From the Transactions of the Society of Engineers, 1867. By 
 S. W. WoRSSAM, Jr. Illustrated by 18 large folding plates. 8vo. 
 
 $5 00 
 
 W- 
 
24 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE, 
 
 ■DOX.— A PRA.CTICAL TREATISE ON HEAT AS APPLIED TO 
 
 ^ TIIL USEFUL ARTS: 
 
 For the use of Engineers, Architects, etc. By Thomas Bo:n; 
 author of "Practical Hydraulics." Illustrated by 14 plates, con- 
 taining 114 figures. 12mo. . . . . . . $4 25 
 
 •pYRNE.— THE AMERICAN ENGINEER, DRAUGHTSMAN, AND 
 
 ■^ MACHINIST'S ASSISTANT: 
 
 Designed for Practical Workingmen, Apprentices, and those in- 
 tended for the Engineering Profession. Illustrated witil 200 
 Engravings on wood, and 14 large Plates of American Machinery 
 and Engine-work. By Oliver Byrne. 4to. Cloth . $6 00 
 
 nHAPMAN.— A TREATISE ON ROPE-MAKING, 
 
 As praotised in private and public Rope-yards, with a Description 
 of the Manufacture, Rules, Tables of Weights, etc. adapted to the 
 Trade; Shipping, Mining, Railways, Builders, etc By Robert 
 Chapman. 24mo $1 50 
 
 OLOAN— AMERICAN HOUSES : 
 
 A variety of Original Designs for Rural Buildings. Illustrated by 
 26 colored Engravings, with Descriptive References By Samuel 
 Sloan, Architect; author of the "Model Architect, "etc. etc. 8vo 
 
 $2 60 
 
 OMITH,— THE PRACTICAL DYER'S GUIDE: 
 
 Comprising Practical Instructions in the Dyeing of Shot Cobourgs, 
 Silk Striped Orleans, Colored Orleans from Black Warps, ditto 
 from White Warps, Colored Cobourgs from White Warps, Merinos, 
 Yarns, Woollen Cloths, etc. Containing nearly 300 Receipts, to 
 most of which a Dyed Pattern is annexed Also, a Treatise on 
 the Art of Padding. By David Smith. In one vol. 8vo. $25 00 
 

 
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