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 THE TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 
 KINK BOOKS 
 
 No. 2 
 
 Kinks for Wool 
 Carders and Spinners 
 
 Compiled from the 
 
 Questions and Answers Department 
 
 of the 
 
 TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 
 
 for its subscribers only 
 
 LORD & NAGLE COMPANY 
 
 Publishers 
 Boston, Mass., U, S. A. 
 
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 ! *njo>i_»rtr < ii > jTji i ur i \r'r~^ \r*~ii r* i f """ i n ^y nr^ r < 
 
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 TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 
 
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THE TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 
 KINK BOOKS 
 
 No. 2 
 
 Kinks for Wool 
 Carders and Spinners 
 
 Compiled from the 
 
 Questions and Answers Department 
 
 of the 
 
 TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 
 
 for its subscribers only 
 
 LORD & NAGLE COMPANY 
 
 Publishers 
 Boston, Mass., U. S. A. 
 
TS 
 
 6^7 
 
 LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Two Copies Received 
 
 OCT 3 1907 
 
 Copyright Entry 
 S&f fl. f<fd7 
 CLASS A XXc. No, 
 
 COPY a: 
 
 
 Copyright, 1907 
 
 LORD & NAGLE COMPANY 
 
 Boston, Mass. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The purpose of this book is to present in a compact 
 form the views of experienced superintendents, carders, 
 and spinners on problems which are ever recurring in 
 carding and spinning rooms. The best of mill men 
 face conditions, every now and then when the views or 
 methods of another are helpful. 
 
 For years, the subscribers to the Textile World 
 Record have been invited to make free use of its 
 columns and staff in securing practical information. 
 This involves much expense in labor and money, but it 
 is our policy to get the information for our subscribers 
 and publish it in the Questions and Answers Depart- 
 ment 
 
 Many subscribers preserve and file or bind back 
 numbers for reference and it occured to us that if some 
 of the most important and most interesting of the 
 practical questions on special subjects which have been 
 answered, were bound together in handy form for quick 
 reference, such a volume would meet a wide -spread 
 want. Kinks for Knitters was published. It is similar 
 to this volume, but, as the name implies, is for knitters. 
 Its contents were gathered from the note -books and 
 experience of knit-goods manufacturers, superintendents 
 and overseers, and its practical value gave it immediate 
 success, as was expected. 
 
 Kinks for Carders and Spinners is now offered, free, 
 to subscribers to the Textile World Record and is 
 
PREFACE 
 
 not available to others. As the subscription price to 
 the Textile World Record is very low, amounting 
 to less than eighteen cents a month, or two dollars per 
 year, Kinks for Carders and Spinners is certainly within 
 the reach of anyone interested in its contents. 
 
 Many questions are answered and much information 
 given within the small compass of this book, but 
 subscribers should remember that if there is any 
 information they desire, which is not given in this 
 volume, it is their privilege to ask the Questions and 
 Answers Department of the Textile World Record, 
 and every effort will be made to publish the information 
 for them, provided the question is one of general 
 interest to the trade. 
 
 No effort has been made to arrange the subject? in 
 the order of precedence in manufacturing, but the book 
 is fully indexed, which should enable anyone to find 
 the information he seeks in the shortest possible time. 
 
 Grateful acknowledgment is due to the men who 
 have supplied the information, and if Kinks for Carders 
 and Spinners should benefit any of the large number 
 of men for whom it is intended, both they and the 
 publisher? will feel that its mission has been accom- 
 plished. 
 
 TEXTILE WORLD RECORD 
 
 Lord & Nagle Company 
 
 Publishers 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 Blending and Oiling 
 
 Can you give me the method of blending 
 and oiling three lots of wool; viz., No. 1 blend; 
 500 lbs. of all-wool Saxony, Australian or Xo. 1 
 Ohio fleece, spun to 10 run; No. 2 blend, 500 
 lbs. of coarse wool; No. 3 blend, Oxford Mix, 
 500 lbs., composed of 125 lbs. black wool, 125 
 lbs. white pulled wool, 250 lbs. black shoddv. 
 
 Deering (1068). 
 
 Carders as well as superintendents have a 
 tendency to overlook the importance and value 
 in this department of having their batches 
 blended and oiled as they should be. Too 
 much emphasis cannot be laid on the importance 
 of having the batches properly blended and 
 oiled to make good carding and spinning. Card- 
 ers should watch with great interest this part 
 of the operation for their own benefit, as well 
 as for the company's. 
 
 Fine Wool 
 No. 1 blend: 500 lbs. all-wool Saxony, 
 Australian or No. 1 Ohio fleece, spun 10 run. 
 We will first run it through the wool duster 
 and then through the burr picker. Lay down 
 in five layers. To each layer spread on 8 qts. 
 of oil (olive oil would be best). Beat down each 
 layer with a pole. When through blending, 
 
6 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 run through the picker twice, feeding light 
 and mixing well in gauze room. It is now 
 ready to sheet up. Let it lie four days in the 
 sheets before going to the cards. When ready 
 for the cards run through picker once. Eight 
 quarts of oil to 100 lbs. No water. 
 
 Coarse Wool 
 
 No. 2 blend: 500 lbs. of coarse wool run 
 through duster and burr picker and laid down 
 in five layers. To each layer spread on 4 qts. 
 of oil and 10 qts. of water. Pole each layer. 
 Run through picker twice. Four quarts of 
 oil, 10 qts. of water to 100 lbs. 
 
 No. 3 blend : Oxford mix; 500 lbs. batch 
 wool and shoddy, 125 lbs. black wool, 125 
 lbs. white pulled wool, 250 lbs. black shoddy. 
 Fifteen quarts of oil, 20 qts. water. This is 
 allowing 6 qts. of oil to 100 lbs. of wool and 8 
 qts. of water to 100 lbs. of wool; nothing for 
 shoddy. If desirable, more oil and water can 
 be added. Mix black and white wool together 
 and run through wool duster and burr picker. 
 Run the shoddy through mixing picker. Make 
 five layers of wool and five layers of shoddy. 
 First layer of wool put on 3 qts. of oil and 4 
 qts. of water. Beat well with pole. Then put 
 on layer of shoddy; beat with pole. Next, a 
 layer of wool and then a layer of shoddy alter- 
 nately until finished. In feeding, take top to 
 bottom of pile. Feed on light and run through 
 the picker three times, mixing well every time. 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 7 
 
 You will notice that I do not put any oil or 
 water on the shoddy, but put it on the wool. 
 I will give my reasons for doing so: First, 
 the shoddy has already received enough oil 
 during the process of manufacturing. Second, 
 it will not fill and gum the cylinder and doffer 
 wire with flocks and fine dust. Third, the 
 cards will run longer without stripping. Fourth, 
 it makes more even, smoother and stronger 
 yarn, and it cards and spins better. 
 
 The same rule for the blending and oiling of 
 this batch can be applied to any percentage of 
 wool and shoddy. To those using emulsions, the 
 same percentage of oil and water can be used 
 and batches laid down the same way, but keep 
 the emulsions from getting on the shoddy and 
 cotton as much as possible. 
 
 Sam Driver. 
 
 Setting Mixer Picker 
 
 We are running a mixing picker with concave 
 feed rolls which seem to raise havoc with the 
 staple. Will you give me some pointers on how 
 the machine ought to be set so I can compare 
 them with our machine. Daniels (1131). 
 
 1. The picker should be set on a solid foun- 
 dation so that there will be no vibration. 
 . 2. The spiked feed roll and concave dish 
 should be set as close as possible to the cylinder 
 teeth and not strike. This will keep the feed 
 roll from winding stock. 
 
8 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 3. The feed roll should be set down in con- 
 cave within half an inch of striking. If set way 
 off the stock will dwell in concave and cause 
 it to cut the staple. Save the staple. 
 
 4. The feed rolls and apron should run as 
 fast as the cylinder will take it. This saves 
 the staple, because there will be no chance 
 for the stock to dwell in the concave. 
 
 5. The grates and outlet kept clean and 
 not allowed to get filled up with dirt under 
 the picker. This will give a better draft and 
 the picker will do better work. The stock 
 will be cleaner. 
 
 6. Plenty of ventilation back of the gauze 
 room, and the belts all good and tight. 
 
 With a picker equipped with spur teeth feed 
 rolls the feed rolls must be set as close to the 
 cylinder as on concave feed; everything else 
 the same. D. R. S. 
 
 Emery Cloth on Traverse Grinders 
 
 Can you tell me whether traverse grinders 
 are ever covered with emery cloth. I have 
 heard that they are but I have not seen one. 
 
 Bowie (1137). 
 
 Traverse grinders can be covered with emery 
 cloth and are in general use in cotton card 
 rooms. To fasten the ends of emery cloth or 
 filleting, two small slits are sawed on each side 
 of the emery wheel. Then the ends of the 
 cloth are put through these slits and fastened 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS Q 
 
 on the inside of the wheel by small clamps. 
 Put on a very light coat of glue and wind in 
 the same as with any other filleting. D. V. 
 
 Carbonizing Rags for Shoddy 
 
 I would like to get a description of the process 
 of carbonizing woolen rags to be used for shoddy. 
 
 Emsley (979)/ 
 
 Carbonizing is done either by the wet, sul- 
 phuric acid process or by the dry or muriatic 
 acid process. The wet process takes a longer 
 time to accomplish the same result, as will be 
 readily seen by comparing the two methods. 
 
 To carbonize by the wet process a kettle 
 7 feet long, 4 or 5 feet wide and 6 feet deep, 
 lined with lead, is used, into which is placed 
 a basket made with a perforated wooden bot- 
 tom, solidly built and held in place by four 
 joists of 4-inch timber, one for each corner. 
 The basket has no sides and is made to fit 
 snugly in the kettle, so it can be lifted out as 
 required. This may be done by arranging a 
 hoist over the kettle so the liquor can drain back. 
 Then the rags are taken to the extractor, which 
 should be conveniently located, and thoroughly 
 extracted. The extractor should be provided 
 with a small well or receptacle in the floor, say, 
 3 feet square by 3 feet deep, also lined with 
 lead, to receive the overflow from the extractor, 
 and which can then be returned to the kettle. 
 
IO KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 The rags are then sent to the dryer and dried 
 at a temperature of not less than 250 degrees F.; 
 then, if they are to be neutralized, they are 
 run to a washer and washed in a slightly alkaline 
 bath, produced by adding a small quantity of 
 soda ash to cold water in the washer, or the 
 soda ash and water are boiled together and 
 part of the solution added to the liquor in the 
 wash machine. The rags are then extracted 
 and dried. 
 
 To carbonize 500 pounds of woolen rags fill 
 the receptacle about three-fourths full of cold 
 water and add sulphuric acid until the liquor 
 registers 7 Be. Enter the rags and let them 
 soak from five to seven hours, according to 
 the grade of rags being carbonized. Good 
 judgment is necessary here, as the quantity 
 of acid used depends upon the amount of cotton 
 in the rags, the usual strength is from 6 to 9 Be. 
 
 To carbonize by the dry process the rags 
 must first be thoroughly dusted and dried. A 
 machine of special construction is required, 
 consisting of an outer oven of brick, enclosing 
 a revolving cast-iron oven, into which the rags 
 are placed; a retort for the muriatic acid, also 
 bricked; and two fire holes, one under the 
 retort, and the other at the side to heat the 
 machine. The heat is evenly distributed by 
 means of flues arranged under the machine. 
 The machine must be kept at a temperature 
 of about 130 degrees F., in order to do its work 
 properly, and the retort fire cannot be too hot 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS II 
 
 while the acid is running into the retort, as 
 that is when the work is done. The muriatic 
 acid (22 per cent.) is placed in a 3-gallon crock 
 and suspended on a shelf above the retort. The 
 crock is specially made for this purpose and 
 has an opening on the side near the bottom 
 to allow a spigot to be driven in, and the acid 
 runs slowly into the retort, through a small 
 granite pipe made for the purpose. The heat 
 forms the acid into a gas before it strikes the 
 machine, and this gas does the carbonizing. 
 If the acid runs into the retort too fast a moisture 
 will be formed in the machine and the rags 
 have to be re-dried. The average length of 
 time required to carbonize by this process is 
 from one to two hours. 
 
 By taking a small swatch of goods from the 
 machine and rubbing it between the fingers 
 it can be determined whether the process is 
 finished; if so, the cotton in the rags crumbles 
 to dust. The batch should then be drawn 
 from the machine, and the machine re-loaded 
 as rapidly as possible, so it will not become 
 cooled. By this means another batch can be 
 carbonized while the first is being dusted and 
 washed. 
 
 This process does not affect the colors of 
 the goods as much as the wet process, and they 
 may be brought back to their original colors 
 by the use of a small quantity of a soda ash 
 and soap solution. To prepare this solution, 
 fill a barrel with water and add one pail of soda 
 
12 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 ash and 10 pounds of soap; boil until the soap 
 is dissolved, when it is ready for use. About 
 three pailfuls of this liquor is added to the 
 water in the washer. The rags are then taken 
 to the duster, dusted thoroughly, washed well, 
 extracted and dried. 
 
 The duster, extractor, and washer should be 
 placed as near to each other as possible and 
 allow room to work comfortably. To carbon- 
 ize 500 pounds of woolen rags by the dry process 
 requires from 30 to 40 pounds of muriatic acid 
 (22 per cent). 
 
 Henry Hutton. 
 
 Fixing Bramwell Feed 
 
 We are troubled with very uneven work 
 and the superintendent thinks that the trouble 
 is caused by a Bramwell feed. I am sure I 
 do not know where the fault lies as we have 
 looked over everything carefully and it may 
 be the feed. Will you give me some information 
 showing how the feed ought to be fixed ; 
 
 Butler (1214). 
 
 It is quite probable that your Bramwell feed 
 is of early manufacture. The modern Bramwell 
 feed has many improvements, not only in the 
 shape of better construction throughout, but 
 also in the attachments which make the feed 
 much more sensitive, so that it gives evener, 
 therefore, more satisfactory work. If this is 
 the case, the old Bramwells can at a compara- 
 tively small cost be modernized, so to speak, 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 1 3 
 
 so that their life will be renewed for many years 
 of usefulness and the work greatly improved. 
 
 In the first place to make even work, the 
 stock must be evenly prepared, mixed and 
 oiled before it comes to the card room. The 
 Bramwell feed should be set level and on a 
 line with the first breaker. The top of the 
 feed table should be set a little below the center 
 of the bottom feed roll and one-half inch from 
 the feed roll. If the stock is crowded in the 
 feed it will make heavy drawing; if it gets too 
 low in the feed it will make light drawing: two 
 extremes. To make even drawing the stock 
 in the feed box should be kept at one height 
 as near as possible, and replenished a little at 
 a time and often; when putting in stock do 
 not press it down; let it have its own weight. 
 
 Putting in too much roping waste at one 
 time and in one place will make uneven drawing. 
 Waste should be pulled up some and mixed in 
 with the stock a little at a time, just enough 
 to keep up. It should be mixed in every time 
 the stock is put in. 
 
 Sometimes the points of pins on the apron 
 get covered with waste, making uneven feeds 
 and uneven drawing: remedy, keep clean. The 
 pins on the side of the apron get broken off by 
 setting the comber too close, set the comb 
 farther off and have the pins replaced. 
 
 This sometimes is the cause of the feed being 
 heavier in the middle than the sides. If the stock 
 is heavier on the middle of the cards than on 
 
14 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 the sides, the grate on the bottom of the Bram- 
 well feed can be easily taken down and cleaned 
 out every lot. This grate is good for shires, 
 leather, wood, wire, etc., to drop through and 
 these articles will often be found on the grate. 
 These sometimes get caught on the apron pins, 
 causing the apron to stop. 
 
 See that the attachment that operates the 
 slat pusher and comb to and from the apron 
 as the stock in feed gets low, is in working order. 
 When the stock is low in the feed the comb 
 should move farther off the apron, when in 
 w ■< irking order. 
 
 When a lot is running out and the stock in 
 feed gets low the feed tender should be on hand 
 or some very uneven drawing will be made. 
 If the catch slips when taking off the large 
 apron, take it off and file it; at the same time 
 file the ratchet pulley teeth on apron shaft. 
 
 Setting the comb too close to the apron and 
 running it faster than necessary will break 
 the staple. Save the Staple. 
 
 Do not run any large apron faster than need 
 be; sometimes the feed tender when wiping 
 feed will knock the feed off before balanced, 
 causing uneven drawing. That is the reason 
 for "Hands Off" painted on the scale. The 
 writer has often seen very uneven drawing 
 made by the scales dumping before they were 
 balanced. Remedy, speed the apron faster or 
 set the comb further off the apron. 
 
 Automatic feeds are made adjustable and if 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AXD SPIXXERS 1 5 
 
 properly adjusted can be made to do good work. 
 When the catch inside of ratchet gear clicks 
 after the scale is balanced, tighten up the little 
 friction snap on the end of the large apron. 
 If using a large per cent, of shoddy or cotton 
 mixed with wool, the pins on the large apron 
 will naturally carry more wool than of the shoddy 
 or cotton. This will make uneven drawing 
 that can be remedied in two ways: First, 
 by setting the comb further off the apron; 
 Second, by placing a board % inch thick and 
 12 inches wide inside the feed under the comb. 
 Set the comb down to the lowest point, then 
 set the board up to within 4 or 5 inches from 
 the apron pins. Place the lower end of the 
 board 5 or 6 inches from the apron pins. The 
 edges of the board should be planed to a bevel. 
 
 With this appliance the stock will be laid 
 more evenly on the pins and make a more even 
 feed. The feed box must not be too full or 
 uneven drawing will be the consequence. 
 
 With the arrangement for stopping the two 
 aprons at the same time after the scale is bal- 
 anced, a much more even drawing can be pro- 
 duced with the Bramwell than formerly. 
 
 The small apron or fan is the most neglected 
 part of the Bramwell feed and still it is one of 
 the most important parts in getting a nice, 
 even feed. This apron should always be in 
 good order and set up to pins on long aprons 
 just alike. The stock in both ends and middle 
 of scales will be alike. The writer has found 
 
1 6 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 this apron in all kinds of shapes, making very 
 uneven drawing. 
 
 Balancing the Scales 
 
 On one side of the feed is the scale beam, 
 on which is a movable weight. On the other 
 side of the feed is another scale beam with 
 balancing weight. Place both weights at an 
 equal distance on the scale beams on both sides 
 until the scales are balanced; when balanced, 
 tighten the balancing weight, which will be 
 stationary; then move the movable weight back 
 according to the quantity of stock you need 
 in the scales. Set the scale pans so that the 
 bottoms will come evenly together at both ends, 
 don't have them overlapping each other. If 
 the bottoms of the pans are crooked, take them 
 out and straighten them. 
 
 The balancing points, which are V-shaped 
 studs attached to scale beams, should be kept 
 sharp. The accuracy of weighing depends on 
 these points. The V-shaped sockets bolted on 
 side of the feed for the V-shaped stud to fit in, 
 should be kept clean and oiled. See that every 
 nut and bolt is tight. A large amount of un- 
 even drawing is made after the stock leaves the 
 scales by having the scales too full and too 
 heavy a feed. Never have the scale pans more 
 than two-thirds full on any kind of stock or 
 for any size of yarn to be made. 
 
 For example, we will change off from 5 run 
 fine wool to 2}/o, run coarse light wool. If we 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 1 7 
 
 alter the weight on the scale for this the scale 
 pans will be heaping up full and so would 
 the feed table. This would make uneven draw- 
 ing, but we must not alter the scale weights 
 until we see how full the scale pan is going to 
 be. If the scale pan fills two-thirds full it is just 
 right. Don't have it more nor less than two- 
 thirds full under any circumstances. Bring up 
 the weight by altering feed gears on card. The 
 pushboard on the feed table should be set back 
 so that it will not push the stock under the 
 beater. When the stock drops from the scale 
 it should drop on the edge of the last feed form- 
 ing a splice. It is where this splicing is that 
 causes uneven drawing and also causes the 
 drawing to break down. Do not have the 
 beater too low. Many little things amount ,to 
 big things; even yarn cannot be made from 
 uneven drawing. D. R. S. 
 
 Fine Ends on the Apperly Feed 
 
 I am having trouble with the side ends com- 
 ing fine on the finisher of a card that is equipped 
 with an Apperly feed. Can you suggest any 
 remedy? Bunker (731). 
 
 There are many things that cause the outside 
 strands to be fine at times. I would advise 
 Bunker to take out the doffers and give them 
 a good light grinding. Then I should give 
 them a good brushing with a hand card covered 
 with wool. Grind all day if necessary, or until 
 
1 8 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 they are perfectly true. Perhaps the waste 
 ring is a trifle higher than the others. In that 
 case I should move the outside or waste ring 
 out 1-16 or 1-8 of an inch so the ring next to 
 it on the other dofTer would deliver heavier rov- 
 ing. The spare ring may steal from the ring 
 next to it. When I had trouble with the outside 
 end being fine I used to take out the packing 
 of the spare or waste ring and move it out 1-16 
 or 1-8 and that would bring up the outside 
 strands to their proper size. I should incline 
 the overhead drawing on the side that was 
 fine. Sam Driver. 
 
 Carbonizing 
 
 Is acid sulphate of soda ever used in place of 
 sulphuric acid for carbonizing wool.? 
 
 Itasca (636). 
 
 Acid sulphate (or bisulphate) of soda is not 
 employed for carbonizing wool; the commonest, 
 and perhaps most generally satisfactory agents 
 used are sulphuric acid, and hydrochloric acid 
 gas, generated from salt and sulphuric acid. 
 In Germany, magnesium chloride is used with 
 good results. 
 
 There is no doubt that bisulphate of soda can 
 be used, but there is always a tendency for 
 soda spots to show wherever such chemicals 
 are employed. Beta-Naphthol. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 1 9 
 
 Qualitative Tests for Fibres 
 
 Can you give me a few qualitative tests for 
 textile fibres? Walton (974). 
 
 The following is a list of tests that was pub- 
 lished in the Textile World Record some time 
 ago: 
 
 1. Microscopic Appearance. 
 
 2. Cotton burns without smell, while wool 
 and silk shrivel up and give off the odor of 
 burning animal matter. 
 
 3. A boiling solution of caustic alkali dis- 
 solves silk and wool, but has little action on 
 cotton. 
 
 4. Concentrated sulphuric acid dissolves cot- 
 ton and silk in the cold, while wool is little 
 affected. 
 
 5. Schweitzer's reagent (ammoniacal solu- 
 tion of oxide of copper) dissolves cotton and 
 silk, but not wool. Cellulose is reprecipitated 
 by gum, sugar, or acids, but the silk substance 
 by acids alone. 
 
 6. A solution of basic cholride of zinc dis- 
 solves silk, but not cotton or wool. 
 
 7. A solution of cotton in concentrated 
 sulphuric acid gives a purple coloration with 
 an alcoholic solution of alpha-naphthol. This 
 reaction really indicates the presence of sugar, 
 and is therefore not given by silk or wool. 
 
 8. Million's reagent (mercurous-mercuric ni- 
 trate) gives a red color with silk or wool, but 
 not with cotton. 
 
20 KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 9. Wool (also hair and fur) is blackened by 
 heating with a dilute solution of plumbite of 
 soda, which is prepared by dissolving litharge 
 in caustic soda. Silk and cotton, as they do 
 not contain sulphur, are unaffected in color. 
 
 10. Nitric acid colors wool and silk yellow, 
 but does not affect cotton. 
 
 11. An acid solution of indigo extract dyes 
 wool and silk, but not cotton. 
 
 Automatic Oiler 
 
 Will you describe an automatic oiler and 
 explain how the stock is delivered so that it 
 can be oiled evenly? Fuller (992). 
 
 The Spencer Automatic Stock Oiling Machine 
 is bolted to the sides of the picker feed apron 
 and consists principally of a revolving brush on 
 which the oil or emulsion is dropped by a vi- 
 brating pipe which leads from a small tank at 
 the top of the machine. The brush strikes 
 against a metal blade and thus converts the oil 
 or emulsion into a spray, which is thrown evenly 
 on the wool as it passes over the picker feed 
 apron from the feeder to the picker. It thus 
 penetrates the stock thoroughly and reaches 
 the individual fibres effectively and with a 
 perfect uniformity. 
 
 As will be readily understood, the forward mo- 
 tion of the material, and the quantity of the oil 
 sprayed by the brush, can be regulated at will 
 by the operator of the machine. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 21 
 
 The even feeding of the Bramwell picker 
 feed made the Spencer oiler feasible and to- 
 gether the two machines do away with the 
 old-fashioned method of feeding and oiling 
 stock by hand. 
 
 The advantages of the Spencer oiler are as 
 follows: 
 
 Saves labor 
 
 Is cleaner — no oils on walls or floor 
 
 Better results — not too much oil here and 
 not enough there, but all oiled alike and just 
 right amount 
 
 Saves oil 
 
 Better results in all subsequent processes, 
 especially carding, because the stock is better 
 prepared for proper handling. 
 
 J. M. P. 
 
 Putting on Card Clothing 
 
 I would like information on putting on card 
 clothing as regards the apparatus required and 
 the method of doing the work. 
 
 Deary (1042). 
 
 It is necessary that every card room should 
 be provided with a suitable frame and drum 
 for winding on filleting. It is important that 
 it should be wound on with as even a tension 
 as possible. The frame should be made strong 
 and wide enough so that the bearings of what- 
 ever is being covered will set firmly in the bear- 
 ings of the frame. Place collars on the shafts 
 so that when winding on filleting they will not 
 
22 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 vibrate. Bolt on the frame a slotted bracket 
 with a long stud and a small gear, with crank 
 attached. Place a large gear on the shaft of 
 whatever is to be covered, and gear into the 
 small gear. By winding this way a much 
 steadier motion and more even tension can be 
 had than with a crank attached to the end of 
 the shaft. 
 
 The drum, if for a 48-inch card with doffer 
 48 by 30, should be made 54 inches wide and 
 31 inches in diameter. The drum must be 
 turned off true and smooth so that the backs 
 of the card teeth will not get bulged. A stout 
 frame must be built for the drum and bolted 
 to the floor. 
 
 A piece of belt 1^ inches wide, with small 
 clamp attached, can be fastened to one end 
 of the drum, another belt can be fastened on 
 the floor on the other end and brought over 
 the drum for friction. Some have the drum 
 placed in front of the grinding frame, with a 
 suitable bearing to bolt on the frame. When 
 putting on filleting it should be wound on the 
 drum quite tight. This will press and keep 
 the backs of card wire in their proper place. 
 The roll must be turned with a steady and even 
 motion to keep an even tension. 
 
 The clothing should be wound on as tight 
 as it will bear; if not, it will be apt to get loose 
 and strike the cylinder and cause " bad work 
 and be a source of trouble all the time. 
 
 D. R. S. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 23 
 
 Mungo and Shoddy 
 
 Can you tell me the difference between the 
 terms mungo and shoddy, as used in the York- 
 shire textile industry? Devoe (947). 
 
 The product known as mungo is made from 
 hard rags of fine quality only. Shoddy is made 
 from soft and coarse rags. This is the correct 
 distinction, and it naturally follows the mani- 
 pulation of the rags must be varied to suit the 
 product. For mungo, a fine tooth cylinder is 
 required. The speed is generally 600 revolutions 
 per minute, and the teeth are set only % of 
 an inch from the feed rollers. Mungo is shorter 
 than shoddy and is employed more for plain 
 goods, piece dyes, than for fancy weaves. Mungo 
 requires wool to support it, and a good blend 
 for doeskin cloths is composed of two-thirds 
 wool and one-third mungo. Delaine. 
 
 Putting on Doffer Rings 
 
 I would like to find the best method of putting 
 on doffer rings. Any information you can give 
 me will be appreciated, as we have never found 
 a satisfactory method of fixing the doffers. 
 
 Burdick (1523). 
 
 Carders have different opinions as to the 
 width of rings and the numbers of wire. Some 
 object to the waste end ring being wide. By 
 having the ring wide it saves waste and a 
 deal of trouble from the outside ends of the 
 spools being lumpy, fine, or coarse. Some will 
 
24 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 say: How can a wide waste ring save waste? 
 It will save waste by allowing the traveler to 
 be set so that the loops in drawing will not 
 come to the extreme edge of the cylinder, thereby 
 saving the stock from dropping down on the 
 ends of the leader-in and also reduce the flyings 
 on the sides of the cards, thus keeping the card 
 cleaner. The waste end rings should be at 
 least -1 3^ inches wide. 
 
 Every carder knowns the annoyance and 
 trouble from the outside ends on spools. If 
 on some lots the outside ends are heavy on 
 the spools from some cause, move the waste 
 end ring inward; if it is too fine, move it out- 
 ward. This will make the outside strand on 
 the spools coarser or finer. 
 
 Putting on rings requires care and accuracy; 
 they must be true, or uneven roping will be 
 the result. For a 48-inch finisher with Apperly 
 feed taking off 48 good strands, on the top 
 doffer there should be 24 rings, 14-16 wide, 
 and one waste end ring 1% wide, 35 steel wire; 
 on the bottom doffer, 24 rings. 1 inch wide, 
 and one spare end ring 1% inches wide, 35 
 steel wire; making 48 inches of wire covering 
 the cylinder wire. 
 
 Before putting on the rings clean the doffer 
 well and fill up the blow holes, if any, with 
 plaster-of-Paris; this is better than lead or 
 putty as it does not corrode when the oil strikes 
 it and start a bunch under the ring. Oil the 
 surface of the doffer slightly with sweet oil 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 25 
 
 before putting on the rings; they will slide 
 down easier. 
 
 Have a cone-shaped pulley made from a 2-inch 
 board with the base the exact diameter of the 
 dofTer, and the point % inch smaller than the 
 base. Put this on the doffer shaft with the 
 base squarely against the end of the doffer. 
 This pulley should be shellacked and made 
 perfectly smooth. Have a board 134 inches 
 thick and 14 inches square with strips of wood 
 screwed on the ends to keep it from splitting. 
 Cut a hole through the centre a trifle larger 
 than the doffer. Before putting on the rings 
 examine every one to see if the wire is all right 
 on the back. Then put a ring over the cone 
 pulley and on the doffer; then with the drawing 
 board slide the ring down to its place. 
 
 After getting on the rings we want a ring 
 board made as follows: Get a piece of wood 
 72 inches long, \y 2 inches thick and 4 inches 
 wide, planed to a straight edge. To mark it 
 off, place it on doffer bearing arms, get a try- 
 square, and with a sharp penknife mark off 
 the exact width of the cylinder on the board. 
 Then make another mark Y^ i nc h wide inside 
 the outer marks; we will then have the width 
 of the wire on the cylinder, which is 48 inches. 
 Xow take the dividers and space off \y 2 inches 
 on each end; this is for the waste end rings. 
 Now take the dividers and divide the intervening 
 space into 48 equal parts for the 48 rings. 
 
 Xext place the top doffer in the grinder frame 
 
26 KIXKS FOR CARDERS AXD SPIXXERS 
 
 with the points of the teeth toward you. The 
 reason for this is that if the tool you are moving 
 them with should happen to slip it would only 
 knock the wire back, which could be easily 
 brought into place again; another reason is 
 that the rings are then in front of you as if you 
 were standing in front of a finisher. 
 
 Place the ring board in front and about op- 
 posite the centre of the doffer; set the outside 
 marks on the board on a line with the outside 
 edge of the doffer; set the board as close to 
 the rings as possible; see that the collar on the 
 doffer shaft and all the bearings are tight. The 
 doffer and the board are set level, and we are 
 now ready to slide the rings into place. Get 
 a piece of flat iron % inch wide, }^ inch thick, 
 15 inches long; the points should be concave 
 and smooth; a wide screw-driver does very 
 well. 
 
 All being ready, start up the doffer and com- 
 mence on the outside waste ring first. Before 
 putting on the packing between the rings place 
 both doffers together and see if the rings come 
 opposite the spaces; it is very important they 
 should, otherwise the roping will not be even. 
 
 In putting the packing between the rings 
 some carders cut narrow pieces of filleting the 
 right width and length and then cut a hole in 
 each end and tie them on; some shave each 
 end and tack or glue them on. The best and 
 quickest way is to put a crank on the doffer 
 shaft and wind small bundle twine in between 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 27 
 
 just as high as the leather on each ring. Great 
 care must be taken not to wind too tight or it 
 may cause the ring to move. Cut the next 
 packing to go between the ring wire, just the 
 right width; it is better to cut them too narrow 
 than too wide. If they are too wide they will 
 crush in the edge of the wire on the ring, causing 
 uneven roping. Some carders tack them on, 
 others glue them, cutting each end beveling. 
 It is a good plan to fill the spaces to within 1-8 
 inch of the top of the wire; this keeps the 
 stock from collecting on the edge of the rings; 
 it also keeps the strippers from knocking down 
 the wire when stripping. If the rings are put 
 on right and there is uneven roping you know 
 it is not the fault of the rings. 
 
 When ready, place the grinders on very 
 lightly, don't try to hurry them, give them 
 time, humor them some; they are sometimes 
 very contrary. When done grinding take off 
 the emery cylinder and strickle each one sepa- 
 rately for half an hour, vibrating very briskly 
 from end to end. 
 
 When grinding use plenty of wool oil on the 
 emery; by using oil on the emery the points 
 of wire will be much smoother than with the 
 emery dry. Judgment must be used to decide 
 when ground enough. When using the emery 
 strickle, let it have its own weight on the wire. 
 When ready to smooth and finish, take a new 
 hand card or a good old one and fill it with 
 drawing, changing it as often as it gets dirty, 
 
28 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 vibrating it very briskly for an hour or more 
 on each doffer. Don't be afraid of brushing 
 them too long, the longer they are brushed 
 the smoother they will be. This cleans out 
 all the oil and emery dust and polishes the 
 points of wire. If the rings are finished in this 
 way the stock will never run back over them, 
 which today is a great annoyance to most carders. 
 To gauge the top and bottom doffers when 
 in the board, get a piece of 1-inch board, 15 
 inches long and 1 inch wider than the distance 
 between the top and bottom doffer, and beveled 
 on both edges. Mark the board off in spaces 
 the same as the ring board and place in between 
 the doffers when setting. This plan is far 
 better than to use the plum-bob and more 
 accurate. Sam Driver. 
 
 Random Roping 
 
 Will you publish in the Questions and An- 
 swers Department how Random roping can be 
 made? 
 
 Random roping can be made with a creel 
 on the finisher in conjunction with vibrating 
 doffers. Everything must be adjusted just 
 right, both doffers must be positive in their 
 action and care must be taken to have the rings 
 occupy their required space and position; then 
 the rings will take up the required quantity of 
 stock from each stripe. Every other drawing- 
 in creel and guide is of a different color, say, 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 2Q 
 
 red alternating with green, etc. The roping 
 will have at certain intervals a clouded ap- 
 pearance and then grow less cloudy, approaching 
 almost a clear color, and then gradually reverse 
 until the opposite color predominates. 
 
 D. R. S. 
 
 Grades of Wool 
 
 What is the exact meaning of 34 blood, 1-8 
 blood, etc., wool? Lehigh (853). 
 
 These fractional terms were originally meant 
 to express the proportion of merino blood in 
 the sheep. In the course of time they have 
 become more or less arbitrary terms to desig- 
 nate particular grades of wool. 
 
 Nubs for Knickerbockers 
 
 We are going to make a line of knickerbockers 
 and I would like to get some information on 
 making nubs; how to set the cards to get 
 good yarn. Akron (983). 
 
 To make nubs for knickerbockers select 
 short, fine wool and run it through the picker 
 dry and then through a first breaker as follows : 
 Feed on very light; set off the workers from 
 the cylinder 3-16 of an inch; set the strippers 
 just close enough to the cylinders to clear them; 
 set the doffer with a 28-gauge. Do not run 
 the comb; set the fancy just to touch the cyl- 
 inder, start the card and the nubs will drop 
 
30 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 under the card. For nubs larger or smaller 
 set the cards accordingly. 
 
 These nubs are then taken to the fulling 
 room and fulled until quite hard, then dried 
 and they are ready for mixing. When the 
 batch is ready for the cards set off the workers 
 of the first breaker from 1-8 to 3-16 of an inch; 
 let the strippers remain as they were, but set the 
 workers off the strippers slightly; set the doffers 
 as for regular work and the fancy the same. 
 
 Set the second breaker the same as the first, 
 except that the worker next the fancy is set 
 quite close to the cylinder. This is to regulate 
 the size of the nubs required; set the fancy 
 the same as on ordinary stock. Set the finisher 
 the same as the first and second breakers, with 
 the exception of the first and last workers. 
 These can be set closer to the cylinder to reg- 
 ulate the size of the nubs. The best way to 
 get the workers on both sides alike is to notice 
 the number of turns on the nut before setting. 
 
 Sam Driver. 
 
 Stock Packing in the Cylinder 
 
 When a fancy packs the stock in a finisher 
 cylinder more than it should, what is the best 
 way to prevent it? What kind of fancy would 
 do the work best? On the one we are using 
 the cylinder wire is Xo. 35, and -on the fancy 
 No. 34. Would a straight wire open set do 
 the work better? Bradford (842). 
 
 This is a point that many carders have trouble 
 with and is the cause of a good deal of bad 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 3 1 
 
 roving. The first thing to do is to find out why 
 the fancy does not keep the cylinder clear. 
 It may be because the fancy is running too 
 slow, because the wire has too much pitch, 
 because the wire is too fine or too closely set, 
 be worn to too fine a point, or because the strip- 
 per belt is slipping. For a 35-wire cylinder 
 I prefer a 34-tempered steel straight wire open 
 set. When a fancy is worn to a needle point 
 it should always be ground, as the fine point 
 will not raise the stock properly. Of course 
 it does not need to be ground as long as it raises 
 the stock well and is smooth. 
 
 As to the speed, I prefer the points of the 
 wire on the fancy to go about 20 per cent, faster 
 than the points of the wire on the cylinder, 
 but there are times when this difference can 
 be varied to good advantage; for instance, 
 when the wire on the fancy stands a little nearer 
 straight than usual. This would be likely to 
 throw too much stock and should be run a little 
 slower. Care should be taken not to get the 
 speed down to that of the cylinder, also to keep 
 the wood work on the fancy and the cylinder 
 tight and perfectly true. I never turn off the 
 wood work of a cylinder without first finding 
 out that every burr on every bolt on the inside 
 of the cylinder is tight. If proper care is taken 
 in these particulars there should be no trouble 
 in keeping the cylinder clear. A. B. H. 
 
 A straight wire open set would probably do 
 the work better as Bradford suggests, and I 
 
$2 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 would advise using a 33 wire for the fancy and 
 35 for the cylinder. Other things might cause 
 this trouble; the fancy might be set too hard 
 against the cylinder, or be running too slow. 
 Better look to these points before making any 
 other changes. Sam Driver. 
 
 It is not stated what kind of stock is being 
 run, but for all kinds — all wool, wool and 
 shoddy, and cotton mixes — I should say that 
 when the cylinder is packed more than usual 
 it is not always the fault of the fancy. If the 
 rings are not in proper shape to take what the 
 fancy raises the cylinder will pack. By the 
 rings being in proper shape, I mean that they 
 must be very evenly ground, very smooth on 
 top of the wire, free from any burrs, the side 
 of the wire must be smooth, the wire must be 
 firm in the leather, and the rings tight, so that 
 it will not pull back by the stock coming in con- 
 tact with it. If the cylinder wire is rough, or 
 there is a burr on the point, the cylinder will 
 pack. If the cylinder or wire ring is rough or 
 burred, take four pieces of l}^-inch new fancy 
 wire about five inches long, fasten them to a 
 board about 14 or 16 inches long and 6 inches 
 wide, and use it in place of a hand card, as it 
 will not slacken the wire as a hand card will do. 
 Use it while grinding, but do not hold it on 
 backward, as it will take too firm a hold on 
 the wire. 
 
 After being sure that the cylinder wire is not 
 slack, is ground smooth, the rings tight and 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 33 
 
 ground even, and the cylinder still packs, then 
 it is the fault of the fancy. A 10-inch fancy, 
 set with 34 tempered steel wire, should be run 
 about 505 revolutions a minute; a 48-inch 
 cylinder, 84 revolutions a minute; that is, the 
 fancy should run about two-thirds faster than 
 the cylinder. If that will not overcome the 
 trouble get a steel wire fancy, 29-33 straight 
 tooth, 1 1-8 inches long, open set in leather and 
 try it with the same speed. Set it about 1-16 
 of an inch to start. When putting on the fancy 
 see that the wire is rubbed in well and on the 
 backward way and tight enough so that it will 
 be sure not to slacken. I think 1 1-8 inch wire 
 is better on a finisher than a longer one, as it 
 will not create so much draught, thereby inter- 
 fering with the stock and making uneven work. 
 
 G. L. P. 
 
 Either the fancy is running too fast, or there 
 is too much pitch to the wire. If the speed 
 and set are correct, raise the pitch of the wire 
 by running a blunt wide tool into it so as to 
 straighten it a little. On my No. 35 wire finish- 
 ers I am using a No. 30 steel open set, 1}£ staple 
 low-bend fancy, on work from 1 % run to 6 run, 
 and get good results. If I knew more of their 
 conditions I might be able to give a more definite 
 answer. Henry Allman. 
 
 Assuming that the finisher cylinder is in 
 good working order, and has no hooked or 
 burred points and yet conveys too much stock, 
 I should try a fancy from some other card, 
 
34 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 no matter if the wire is a little coarser. A 
 cylinder can be packed by running the fancy 
 too slow, or not setting it close enough to the 
 cylinder. If all these details have been properly 
 looked after the next thing is to raise the wire 
 and grind off the needle points caused by running 
 the wire in contact with the teeth of the main 
 cylinder. It will not do to try to raise the 
 wire on the finisher fancy by running the blunt 
 end of the turning tool against the teeth. 
 
 A plan I have always found successful is to 
 set the fancy in the grinder and winding from 
 the teeth pointing toward the operator. Then 
 with a cleaning comb, ten teeth to the inch, 
 pull the wire back and up with an oblique 
 motion on every turn. After going over the 
 whole fancy with the comb, take an emery 
 board like those commonly used for smoothing, 
 the finer the better, and while the fancy is being 
 turned very slowly, rub lengthways to the right 
 and left on the fancy wire, touching every point. 
 Don't be afraid of bearing on. This operation 
 takes off the needle point and gives a point 
 that will keep the cylinder from carrying too 
 much stock. Xext clean out the dust this 
 operation has made by holding a hand card 
 against it for a minute or two, but be sure not 
 to grind it. After setting it in the card, tighten 
 the fancy pulley and belt, if they are at all slack. 
 This plan of taking off needle points has only 
 to be tried once to satisfy the most skeptical 
 of its success. I alwavs run the fancv wire 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 35 
 
 two numbers coarser than the wire on the cyl- 
 inder. I think straight fancy wire is best. 
 
 Anthony. 
 
 Setting the Fancy 
 
 We have changed our cards over to a coarse 
 clothing for long coarse stock but have not 
 changed the fancy. Now the doffer cannot 
 take the stock from the cylinder and the cloth- 
 ing is choked up. We have tried setting the 
 fancy deeper into the cylinder, running it faster, 
 and have even bent the wire forward. Is there 
 anything you can suggest that will help us out ? 
 
 Foster (967). 
 
 This seems to be a case of saving the old 
 fancy at any cost. As there is only one fancy 
 on a card and as the cost of reclothing it with 
 wire suited to the work would be small, I would 
 suggest that Foster get clothing a little coarser 
 than that on the cylinder. All the expedients 
 for making the fancy do work it was never 
 intended to do seem to have been tried, so I 
 judge a very short stock had been previously 
 used or the fancy was about worn out. The 
 range of work that a fancy will do is large, but 
 there are limits and when reached, the cost of 
 new clothing should not be considered against 
 the loss caused by makeshift devices. 
 
 Burleigh. 
 
 Causes of Uneven Roping 
 
 I read a list of causes of uneven roping in 
 the Textile World Record several months ago 
 
36 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 and I cut out the article. It has been lost and 
 I want to get another one like it, for there are 
 some points in it that I had not heard before, 
 and I've been in the card-room since I was a 
 boy. Perhaps it wouldn't do any harm if you 
 published it again. Dobney (937). 
 
 The portion of the article referred to by 
 Dobney is as follows: When using creels on 
 the second breaker never have a full set in at 
 one time; have partly filled spools on one-half 
 of the creel and full spools on the other half; 
 the roping will be more even in this way. When 
 all the spools run out together there are so 
 many splicings that they cause the roping to 
 be heavy for a time. The more spools there 
 are in the creels the more doubling and the 
 more even roping. One drawing out makes 
 the roping finer. 
 
 Among the causes of uneven roping are im- 
 perfect cleaning and mixing of the stock, ir- 
 regularity in putting on oil and composition, 
 inaccurate weighing and feeding, feed rolls and 
 other cylinders winding stock and filling up 
 after stripping, strained drawings from second 
 breaker to Apperly feed, belts and gears slipping, 
 and inferior card-room help. Perfection in the 
 form of all cylinders from the largest to the 
 smallest is essential in making even roping. 
 
 If the ring doffer is out of true so that it 
 comes nearer to the cylinder during one part 
 of its revolution, there will be a gradual vari- 
 ation in the roping from coarse to fine and 
 the increase and decrease will alternate in 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS T>7 
 
 lengths equal to the circumference of the ring. 
 If the main cylinder is out of true so that one 
 side runs nearer to the doffer than the other, 
 the variations in size of roping will be repeated 
 in lengths equal to the circumference of the 
 cylinder. Uneven roping may also be caused 
 by the workers, leader-in, tumbler and fancy 
 being out of true. 
 
 These imperfections may not always be ap- 
 parent to the naked eye and are not very easily 
 detected. There is no doubt that these small 
 things are the cause of uneven roping and of 
 uneven yarn, besides an endless amount of 
 trouble. The remedy is simple and consists 
 in truing the small cylinder as well as the large 
 one and keeping them true no matter how hard 
 the cards may be driven. Quality first and 
 then quantity is the best rule for both carder 
 and manufacturer. 
 
 The feed rolls should be of the same size and 
 perfectly true; if one is larger than the other, 
 they will not deliver evenly, and this will be 
 more or less perceptible in the yarn according 
 to the difference in size between them. Another 
 very frequent cause of uneven roping is the 
 careless manner in which the pulleys are lagged 
 with leather, making them untrue or lopsided, 
 causing the belt to run slack or tight, thus driv- 
 ing them at unequal speeds and producing re- 
 sults similar to those from uneven surfaces. 
 
 A dull tumbler will cause uneven strands on 
 the ends of the spools. Uneven feeds make un- 
 
3& KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 even roping. Another cause is defective setting 
 of the ring doffers. If the fancy on the finisher 
 is set too hard or runs too fast or the card runs 
 too long without stripping, or if the cylinder is 
 dull, fine strands will be made on the ends of 
 spools and heavy strands in the middle. The 
 first full spools made after stripping the cylinder 
 should be torn up. 
 
 Crowding the stock in the first breaker feed 
 and then letting it run nearly out is the cause of 
 much uneven roping. The small pulleys of the 
 Apperly feed should be cleaned and oiled every 
 week. When weighing roping weigh the tops 
 and bottoms, then the sides and the middle. 
 The tops and bottoms should be spun separately. 
 If making warp and filling from the same lot, 
 the tops will make the strongest warp. To 
 ensure even roping, the feed rolls, leader-in and 
 tumbler should be faultless. If they are al- 
 lowed to get filled with stock, the best results 
 will not be obtained. 
 
 Production of Woolen Finisher Card 
 
 Please state the best method of calculating 
 the production of a woolen finisher card. I 
 have calculated the production of our finisher 
 cards, from the weight of roving and size of 
 doffer rings, but the results vary from 15 to 25 
 per cent from the actual product. The outside 
 diameter of rings is 11 3-4 inches. The doffer 
 makes 14 turns per minute. We are using 11 
 rub-roll condensers. The roving reels 1 1-2 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 39 
 
 runs as it comes from the condenser. There are 
 twenty ends taken from each of the two doffers. 
 
 Iroquois (342). 
 
 The error in Iroquois' calculation is evident from 
 his explanation. He has neglected to take into 
 account the draft of the roving by the condenser. 
 At our request Iroquois has informed us that the 
 spool drum at the finisher is 29 in. in circum- 
 ference, and makes 21 turns per minute, showing 
 a surface speed of 609 inches per minute. The 
 surface speed of the doffer, which is 11 3-4 inches 
 in diameter and makes 14 turns per minute, is 
 517 inches per minute, consequently the spool 
 drum winds 18 per cent more length of roving 
 than the doffer is delivering. This increase is due 
 to the draft of the rub rolls. Iroquois' error was 
 due to his calculating from the speed of the 
 doffer and the weight of yarn at the spool drum. 
 
 Taking the speed of the spool drum and weight 
 of the roving at the spool drum as factors we cal- 
 culate the production of the card as follows : 
 
 609 (in. per min.) X 40 (ends) = 677 yds. 
 roving per min. 
 
 677 (yds.) -4- 150 (yds. per oz.) = 4^ ozs - 
 roving per min. 
 
 \y 2 (ozs.) X 60 (min. per hour) = 17 lbs. 
 roving per hour. 
 
 Broken Drawing on Breakers 
 
 Can you give me a reason for broken drawing 
 on the breakers? Foss (959). 
 
40 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 There are many causes for the breaking of 
 drawings. The doffer may be running too fast, 
 in which case a reduction of speed would be to 
 the advantage of the work and would also tend 
 to increase the strength of the drawing. The 
 doffer comb may have been striking and been 
 worn rough or it may need cleaning. Drawing 
 may also break by being stripped too far below 
 the centre of the doffer. This may be remedied 
 by raising the stroke of the comb. 
 
 Sometimes the drawing breaks down from 
 too great a draft on the side drawing, in which 
 case the end drawing will break as it leaves the 
 doffer on the farthest end from the drawing 
 rolls. Remedy: reduce the speed of the rolls. 
 If the doffer gets dull, rough or out of true, 
 the drawing will break down. 
 
 There are various ways of supporting the 
 drawing as it passes to the rolls. On low stock 
 it is a good idea to place a narrow apron under 
 the comb, the same as for the Kershaw and 
 Scotch feeds, and driven from the side draw- 
 ing shaft. 
 
 Sometimes the short and long stock is not 
 blended and picked right; this often causes 
 a breaking of the drawing. Too heavy a feed 
 making the drawing heavier at times than at 
 others may be the cause. The comb may be 
 too high or too low, too fast or too slow. Have 
 good stripper belts and keep them tight and 
 clean. When the side drawing breaks down 
 often extra work and waste results. Too much 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 4 1 
 
 waste in the feed is another cause; also the 
 stock getting too low or too high. If the draw- 
 ing falls down raise the comb; if it pulls too 
 tight, lower the comb. The centre of the stroke 
 of the comb should be a little above the centre 
 of the doffer. On long stock it is sometimes 
 necessary to have a longer down-stroke and on 
 short stock a longer up-stroke. Set the comb 
 as close to the doffer as it can be and not strike, 
 and keep the comb teeth free from grease. 
 
 All kinds of supports are used to keep the 
 drawing from falling down, such as cone-shaped 
 cylinders placed under the comb, wire and 
 broomstick supports from the floor to comb, 
 and many other contrivances. If the stock is 
 really too low and short to make good drawing 
 it is best to bring the first and second breakers 
 together and place a short endless slat apron 
 between after the fashion of the Blamire feed. 
 
 Sam Driver. 
 
 Soft Noses on Mules 
 
 We are spinning 7-8 to 134 -run yarn on Eng- 
 lish and American mules and are troubled with 
 soft noses on the bobbins which cause the filling 
 to slip from the bobbin during weaving and 
 make much waste. Can vou suggest a remedv? 
 
 Ridley (542).' 
 
 We have secured the following expert opinion 
 on this trouble, the cause of which is very diffi- 
 cult to point out without knowing all the condi- 
 tions in the mill where it exists. 
 
42 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 Be sure that the quadrant on the mule is 
 not set too far back, as this will invariably 
 cause the mule to wind hard on the shoulder 
 and soft or slack on the nose. If it is a Davis 
 and Furber machine be sure that the two centre 
 tracks are perfectly true and level, otherwise 
 it will wind with soft places. The builder rail 
 should also be in such a position as will insure 
 an even wind. Holz. 
 
 In order to answer the question fully we 
 ought to have full details of the style of mule, 
 together with the number of teeth in the gears, 
 the kind of quadrant plate, builder, etc. Soft 
 noses on bobbins can often be remedied by 
 setting the quadrant arm a little lower down. 
 This has the effect of turning the spindles faster 
 when the yarn is being wound on the nose, 
 thus making them tighter. 
 
 The difficulty might also be caused by the 
 faller leg knocking off the square stud too soon, 
 or it may be that there is something that is 
 imperfectly set just at the finish of the draw 
 so that the weight is taken off the yarn and the 
 yarn is not wound on the nose under tension. 
 There are so many things that might cause 
 this difficulty, and which vary with each type 
 i>i mule, that we can give only general infor- 
 mation without knowing more of the details. 
 
 Wilts. 
 
 There are many things that might cause the 
 trouble which Ridley mentions. The floor may 
 be uneven; the track may drop as it goes toward 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 43 
 
 the head and the machine get ahead of the 
 wind; the faller might trip too quickly. If we 
 could have one of the bobbins sent us we think 
 there would be no difficulty in finding a remedy. 
 
 Lincoln. 
 
 Size of Wire 
 
 Can you give us information or some sort of 
 a table showing the best card-clothing wire 
 for fine and coarse stock? Field (927). 
 
 The way the batches come along now in 
 most woolen card rooms makes it a hard task 
 to name just the right size wire that would 
 be best for general use. One batch may be a 
 nice, fine all-wool lot; the next may be a mix- 
 ture of very coarse wool and shoddy, and the 
 next of fine wool and shoddy, or it may be a 
 silk mix or a hair mix, etc. The carder hardly 
 knows what will go on next. If batches of the 
 same quality could follow each other, much 
 better and more even roping could be made 
 and would save the carder a good deal of trouble 
 and much valuable time and waste would be 
 saved to the interest of the company. When 
 batches keep jumping from one run to six runs 
 and vice versa, it is no wonder there is so much 
 trouble with uneven roping. 
 
 When the carder has a set of cards on a 500 
 pound lot, 5 run warp running just to suit him, 
 the lot is nearly run out, and the next lot may 
 be 2^2-run coarse wool and shoddy or some 
 other kind much different from the 5-run lot. 
 
44 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 I should recommend the following scale and 
 number of wire for a set of cards for general 
 run of work : 
 
 First Breaker 
 
 Feed rolls, if not steel rings, which are de- 
 cidedly the best. 
 
 Feed rolls, top and bottom, No. 18 convex 
 or diamond point, straight steel wire. 
 
 Tumbler, No. 33 wire, steel. 
 
 First two workers, No. 32, the remainder 
 No. 34 steel wire. 
 
 Strippers, No. 32, steel wire. 
 
 Cylinder, No. 33, the sheets steel wire. 
 
 Doffer, No. 33, steel wire. 
 
 Fancy, No. 30, sheets or filleting, steel wire. 
 
 Second Breaker 
 Feed rolls, top and bottom for creels, No. 18, 
 convex or diamond point straight steel wire. 
 Leader-in, No. 24, diamond point steel wire. 
 Tumbler, No. 33, steel wire. 
 Two workers, No. 34, the remainder No. 35. 
 Strippers, No. 32. 
 Cylinder. No. 34, sheets. 
 Doffer, No. 34. 
 Fancy. No. 32. sheets or filleting. 
 
 Finisher 
 Apperly feed rolls, No. 24 bottom, and No. 
 26 top, diamond point straight steel wire. 
 Leader-in, No. 24. diamond point steel wire. 
 Tumbler, No. 34. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 45 
 
 First two workers, Xo. 35, the remainder 
 Xo. 36. 
 
 Strippers, Xo. 34. 
 Cylinder, Xo. 35, sheets. 
 Ring doffer, Xo. 35. 
 Fancy, Xo. 34, filleting. 
 
 Card Clothing for a Set of Cards on Coarse Stock 
 If a set of cards is running permanently on 
 coarse wool, or coarse wool and shoddy mixed , 
 the numbers of the wire should be: 
 
 First Breaker 
 Feed rolls, if not steel rings, Xo. 18, convex 
 wire. 
 
 Tumbler, Xo. 32. 
 
 Two workers, Xo. 30, the others Xo. 32. 
 
 Strippers, Xo. 30. 
 
 Cylinder sheets, Xo. 32. 
 
 Doffer, Xo. 32. 
 
 Fancy, Xo. 30. 
 
 Second Breaker 
 Feed rolls, Xo. 18, convex or diamond point 
 wire, straight tooth. 
 Leader-in, Xo. 24. 
 Tumbler, Xo. 32, steel wire. 
 Workers, Xo. 33. 
 Strippers, Xo. 30. 
 Cylinder, Xo. 33, sheets. 
 Fancy, Xo. 32, sheets or filleting. 
 Doffer, Xo. 33. 
 
46 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 Finisher 
 
 Bottom rolls Apperly feed, Xo. 18, convex 
 or diamond point wire, straight tooth. 
 
 Top rolls Apperly feed, Xo. 18, convex or 
 diamond point wire, straight tooth. 
 
 Leader-in, Xo. 24. 
 
 Tumbler, No. 34. 
 
 Workers, Xo. 34 
 
 Strippers, No, 32. 
 
 Cylinder, No. 34, sheets. 
 
 Ring doffers, Xo. 34. 
 
 Fancy, Xo. 33, filleting. 
 
 Sam Driver. 
 
 Speed and Size of Pulleys 
 
 Please give me a simple rule for calculating 
 the speed and size of direct connected pulleys? 
 
 Manitoba (450). 
 
 Suppose two pulleys, A and B, are connected 
 by a belt. Then: 
 
 Diam. of A X speed of A = diam. of B X speed 
 of B. 
 
 From this it follows that : 
 
 Diam. of A = (diam. of B X speed of B) -h 
 speed A. 
 
 Also that : 
 
 Speed of A = (diam. of B X speed of B) -f- 
 diam. of A. 
 
 Ex. A 12-inch pulley running 150 R.P.M. 
 drives another pulley 225 R.P.M. 
 
 Find the size of the last named pulley. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 47 
 
 (12 X 150) -f- 225 = 8 inches, diam. of pulley 
 running 225 R.P.M. 
 
 Ex. A 15-inch pulley running 80 R.P.M. 
 drives a 10-inch pulley. Find the speed of the 
 last-named pulley. 
 
 (15 X 80) + 10 = 120 R.P.M. of 10-inch 
 pulley. 
 
 The circumference may be used in place of 
 the diameter if desired. 
 
 Density of Baled Wool 
 
 What is the density of Bagdad wool as im- 
 ported in bales? How does its weight compare 
 with that of water? Douglass (353). 
 
 A cubic foot of water weighs 1,000 ounces 
 or 62% pounds. A bale of Bagdad wool re- 
 cently imported measured 51 inches long, 17 
 inches wide and 17 inches thick; cubic contents, 
 14.739 cubic inches. The gross weight was 360 
 pounds, equal to 675 ounces, or 42 pounds per 
 cubic foot. The weight of this bale was 32 3^ 
 per cent, less than that of water. 
 
 Grinding the Cylinder 
 
 I have always worked in a small mill and 
 am not sure that I know the way grinding is 
 done in large places or in other mills. Can 
 you get one of your card room men to give me 
 an explanation of his method of grinding. 
 
 Ashwell (997). 
 
48 KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXNERS 
 
 Before proceeding to grind any cylinder 
 examine it carefully and see if any teeth are 
 out of place. Level the grinder and then set 
 it almost to touch; then start the grinder and 
 set very lightly on both sides until the wire 
 has become smooth; then set up a little more 
 until finished. Beginners should be careful 
 in setting the grinder until they have acquired 
 the art of grinding by practice. In grinding 
 the cylinders no special time can be given. 
 Grinding must always be controlled by sight, 
 ear, and touch. The saddle is a good thing 
 to knock out dirt and keep the wire smooth. 
 
 If the grinding is done lightly and carefully 
 the top edges of the wire will be formed some- 
 thing like the cutting edge of a carpenter's chisel, 
 but on account of the lateral motion of the 
 grinder the side edges will be ground off, leav- 
 ing nothing put the sharp points. On the other 
 hand, if the grinding is done in a hasty or im- 
 perfect and careless manner, the points of wire 
 are ground in a broader and coarser manner. 
 Should the grinding be too heavy, the pressure 
 from the emery that this occasions will cause 
 the points of wire to blister, making what is 
 termed a hook. The card wire in this con- 
 dition is detrimental to good carding and also 
 prevents the cards from being stripped clean, 
 increasing the amount of waste. 
 
 To attain the principal object in grinding 
 it is necessary to grind slowly, lightly and care- 
 fully, with due regard to the quality and temper 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 49 
 
 of the wire. Grinding too hard is like bearing 
 on too hard when grinding a knife; it will turn 
 the edge up. Grinding wire too hard turns 
 the points down, forming a hook at the point 
 of the wire. A good way to keep the cylinder 
 sharp is to have an emery roll placed under 
 the cylinder; this roll must run faster than 
 the cylinder surface to keep it sharp. It can 
 be driven from the fancy, but this plan has 
 never been generally adopted. 
 
 A small roll covered with No. 8 emery or 
 finer, placed on top of the first and second 
 breaker doffer is a good thing to keep the doffers 
 sharp and smooth, and is used alternately with 
 the dickey. The emery roll can be made to 
 traverse by a little attachment put on the end 
 of the shaft adapted for that purpose. A good 
 plan when grinding cylinders is to have a spare 
 worker or stripper covered with fancy wire 
 placed on the top of the cylinder and set lightly 
 in the cylinder when grinding. With careful 
 setting there is no use in grinding the cylinder 
 every month. It will run six months or a year, 
 or even more. On dirty stock the cylinder may 
 need brushing out once or twice a week. 
 
 To grind the fancy set it up to the grinder 
 roll without any belt and allow it to run by 
 pressure of the grinder, holding the fancy by 
 friction. Run slow and steady or it may be 
 ground untrue. Grind until all the creases 
 are out. D. V. 
 
50 KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 
 
 Carbonizing Wool by the Aluminum Process 
 
 Can you give me some information about 
 the process of carbonizing wool with chloride 
 of aluminum? We want to carbonize noils 
 and keep them white; oil of vitriol turns them 
 yellow. Gardner (826). 
 
 When using this process the wool or noils 
 should be entered in a bath of chloride of alu- 
 minum standing at 6 to 7 Be., and then 
 worked carefully for an hour or so. The ma- 
 terial is then taken out, hydro-extracted, and 
 dried at a medium temperature, then carbon- 
 ized for one hour at 194° F. At the end of 
 that time the vegetable matter in the wool can 
 be removed by beating, and a washing in soft 
 water with fuller's earth will remove all traces 
 of the chloride. 
 
 Shoddy and Mungo Mixes 
 
 Can you tell me the best way to set cards 
 for shoddy and mungo mixes. I seem to be 
 unable to find information on this work. Is 
 it necessary to keep the card in as good con- 
 dition and the wire as sharp as in the carding 
 of better grades of stock? Xeilson (1422). 
 
 Mungo or very short shoddy is produced 
 from hard felted Cloths such as beavers, doe- 
 skins, etc. Shoddy is produced from cassi- 
 meres, worsteds, delaines, knit goods, etc., 
 and is a much longer staple than mungo. Xot 
 many years ago it was thought that any old 
 sets of cards with card clothing half gone were 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 5 1 
 
 good enough to card shoddy lots. Things 
 have changed wonderfully since then. Carders 
 have found out that the lower the stock the 
 finer and the better the card clothing must be. 
 
 The workers and doffers must be kept good 
 and sharp. These and the cylinder should 
 be kept brushed out every two weeks. A 
 false worker is a good thing in any card room, 
 and can be used to good advantage in keep- 
 ing the workers clean, sharp and smooth, all 
 the time. The points of wire can be kept 
 well polished, and quick to catch the stock 
 and quick to let go. 
 
 Good judgment should be used as to how 
 long the cards should be used without strip- 
 ping. In order to make even roping they 
 should be stripped before they begin to make 
 uneven roping. Here is where many carders 
 make a failure in carding low stock, in neg- 
 lecting to see that the cards are properly 
 stripped and at the proper time. It is better to 
 strip them too early than too late. Much uneven 
 roping is made by putting up the drawing 
 before the card gets filled up after being stripped. 
 
 The greatest secret in carding snoddy lies 
 in keeping the points of wire sharp, smooth 
 and clean. The speed of the cylinder, 90 turns; 
 doffers, 15 turns a minute; graduate the speed 
 of the workers, driving the first the fastest, 
 the next slower, and so on, the one next the 
 fancy running the slowest. If any part of 
 the card is out of true, stop at once and true 
 
52 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 it. It is not the closest setting that does the 
 best carding. There has been more loss of 
 time and bad carding made by too close setting 
 than in any other way. If set too close the 
 points of wire strike and dull the points. It 
 is better to be on the safe side than set too 
 close. What is the use of grinding points on 
 the wire and then knocking them off again 
 with too close setting? In setting use the 28 
 gauge; first set the tumbler to cylinder, then 
 set the leader-in to the tumbler very close and 
 not strike; then set the feed rolls to the leader- 
 in with gauge. 
 
 Set the workers progressively, commencing 
 by setting the first farthest off. Set the strip- 
 pers as close to the cylinder as possible and 
 not to strike, also set the worker close to the 
 stripper, set the doffer by 28 gauge, set the 
 fancy on quite hard. Keep the stripper belts 
 tight and clean. For low stock move the first 
 and second breaker frames within six or eight 
 inches of each other, and connect them by an 
 endless apron something after the principle of 
 a Blairmire feed; this will save waste and lots 
 of trouble. There will be no drawing to break 
 down, besides it makes more room. 
 
 The second breaker and finisher can be set 
 the same as the first, only set the strippers 
 off from the cylinder on the finisher; set the 
 top doffer quite loose and the bottom doffer 
 quite tight; condense the roping quite hard 
 and see that it is not winding too tight on the 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 53 
 
 spools. Give a long draught of roping, say, 
 two-thirds draught or more. 
 
 The best plan is to make the roping the size 
 the spinner can handle it the best. The best way 
 to keep the stock or shoddy from dropping 
 under the card, is to keep the working points 
 of the cylinder as clean as possible. It is not 
 best to have the cards stripped all through 
 every time; the best plan is to. strip only those 
 parts that are dirty. To strip the cards through 
 every time is a waste of time and labor. Keep 
 the points of the strippers clean. 
 
 Many carders fail to succeed with shoddy, 
 not because it is shoddy, but because of the 
 dirt and flocks it contains. There are various 
 devices to prevent dropping by catching and 
 returning them to the card, and one of the 
 most common is the semi-circular screen set 
 close and underneath the cylinder. The screens 
 get choked up with dirt and flying, and then 
 both dirt and flying goes back into the card 
 again and into the goods. These devices have 
 never become general on woolen cards. In 
 carding shoddy, dirt is the worst thing there 
 is to fight against. 
 
 The writer has had years of experience in 
 carding these low materials and would advise 
 those who have had trouble in carding short 
 stock to study these suggestions carefully and 
 earnestly, because they contain information 
 which is the result of many years of practical 
 experience on this class of work. Sam Driver. 
 
54 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 Carding Cotton Mixes 
 
 I am having trouble carding cotton mixes. 
 The cotton is fairly well matted; the picker 
 does not do very good work and neppy yarn 
 is the result. We have an old wooden frame 
 card, and lately when we moved from one floor 
 to another the card was so racked and worn 
 that we could not set it close enough to take 
 out the neps. What would be the best method 
 of setting, and to what size gauge? It is set 
 to 29 now. Where is the setting most liable 
 to help, and will the fancy help or cause the 
 neps? We are now making 1 i^-run yarn; about 
 1^2 draft on the spinning machine or about 
 48 inches of roving. The stock contains from 
 20 to 50 per cent, cotton. The ring doffers 
 make about 14 turns a minute. 
 
 Clinton (774). 
 
 If the card is in such shape as Clinton says it 
 is, the best thing to do is to open the window 
 and throw it out. If the mixing picker is not 
 doing good work, have the machine fixed so 
 that it will. The mixing picker has nothing 
 to do with making neps. Run the cotton and 
 the stock that is mixed with it separately through 
 the picker before mixing. I never set a card 
 closer than 29-gauge on any kind of stock. 
 If Clinton can set the stock with a 29-gauge 
 without having it strike, the card is all right 
 and the fault must be somewhere else, probably 
 in the fancy. Set the fancy so you can just 
 hear it on each side; then set both sides firmly 
 into the cylinder. See that the stripper belt 
 is tight; run the first breaker doffer faster 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 55 
 
 so as to get the stock out of the card quicker. 
 vSpeed the ring doffers up to 18 or 20 turns and 
 the condenser accordingly. The roving is ap- 
 parently about right. Sam Driver. 
 
 Matching Mixtures 
 
 How can I determine the proportions of each 
 color in the enclosed samples of black and 
 white mixed cloth? Mixture (440). 
 
 The best way to match textile mixtures of 
 different colors is to make a small sample, 
 weighing the stock on a grain scale, and carding 
 and mixing the different colors on a hand card. 
 One hundred grains is a convenient weight, 
 as each grain is equivalent to 1 per cent. After 
 it has been carded the stock is washed in neutral 
 soap, dried and compared with the sample to 
 be matched. Repeated tests are made until 
 the right proportions are obtained. If facilities 
 are at hand, it is a good plan to verify the hand- 
 card sample by making a larger one of, say 
 two pounds, carding it on the breaker card. 
 The Torrance Mfg. Company, Harrison, X. J., 
 build a small card for this purpose, and it is 
 a very useful machine in a mill making mixed 
 goods. 
 
 Deodorizing Wool Scouring Liquor 
 
 Please advise us where we can find a deodor- 
 izing process for wool scouring liquor, and the 
 best known process for regaining the grease. 
 
 Westwood (609;. 
 
56 KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 
 
 Our special correspondent in England, to 
 whom this question was referred, writes as 
 follows: "I don't think I need add anything 
 to the explanation given in my last instalment 
 of notes so far as regaining is concerned. The 
 'cracking' of the liquor with sulphuric acid is 
 practically universal. But as to the deodorizing 
 or bleaching the oil that is squeezed from the 
 crude magma. I can give you one hint. Try 
 the experiment of a 5 per cent, or so solution 
 of bichromate of potash in hot water, slightly 
 acidulated with sulphuric acid. The oil and 
 water need agitating all the while so that the 
 liberated oxygen can do its work in clearing 
 the oil. Permanganate of potash can be used, 
 but is not considered as good as the bichromate. 
 This recipe is so simple that it may, perhaps, 
 not be improved on." 
 
 Speeds of Doffer and Cylinder 
 
 What should be the relative speeds of the 
 doffer and cylinder on first or second breakers' 
 
 Eaton (623). 
 
 The relative speed at which to run the cyl- 
 inder and doffer can be determined only by 
 taking into consideration all the circumstances, 
 including the kind of stock, the size of the 
 roving and yarn, the production expected, 
 and the finish of the goods. If the stock con- 
 sists of a mixture of cotton, shoddy and wool, 
 and is to be free from specks when carded, every 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 57 
 
 effort must be made to ensure thorough card- 
 ing of the fibres from the beginning of the process. 
 If the stock is delivered in good condition to 
 the cards the work of carding is greatly facil- 
 itated. The picking of the stock is a very 
 important process and has much effect on 
 subsequent operations. The object of picking 
 is to obtain a thorough blending of the fibres 
 and a uniform distribution of oil, or whatever 
 lubricant is used. The heavy stock that falls 
 close to the mouth of the picker should be 
 carried back and evenly distributed over the 
 batch before running it through the picker 
 again. 
 
 The first carding takes place in the feeders, 
 where the combs must be carefully adjusted, 
 giving the scale plenty of time in which to be 
 filled. The feed should be heavy enough to 
 give the required amount of doubling, and 
 not so heavy as to give the feed rolls a spring 
 in the center. The feed rolls should be adjusted 
 so that they will hold the stock while it is being 
 combed out, and at the same time clear readily 
 so as not to become clogged. This ensures 
 even distribution of the stock to the tumblers, 
 which is of great advantage in carding. If 
 the stock is not delivered evenly to the cyl- 
 inder it will not be delivered evenly to the 
 doffer. On fine mixed lots, whether composed 
 of all wool, or of cotton, wool and shoddy mixed, 
 it is a good plan to run the doffer more slowly 
 in order to keep the stock longer in the machine. 
 
58 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 The speed of the doffer can be gradually in- 
 creased as long as the drawing is clear and 
 well mixed. 
 
 On heavy yarn, for which it is not necessary 
 to have the stock carded perfectly clear, it 
 has been my practice to get the stock out of 
 the first breaker as rapidly as possible. I have 
 obtained good results in running the feed rolls 
 slow and the doffer fast, making the drawing 
 lighter. This gives the same production, but 
 of a better quality, and with the breaker run- 
 ning smoothly and not overcrowded. 
 
 The comb should be kept in good order with 
 the teeth even and set close. Under these 
 conditions the doffer will deliver well and strip 
 the stock freely from the main cylinder. The 
 cylinder and doffer of the second breaker are 
 as a rule, to be run at about the same adjust- 
 ment as that of the first breaker. The doffer 
 should never be allowed to become glazed over 
 or filled with waste and dirt. The points must 
 take the stock freely from the cylinder. A 
 smaller roll, 2^ or 3 inches in diameter, placed 
 on the doffer and covered with short flexible 
 fancy clothing, is found of great help to the 
 doffer. It should be run the same way as the 
 doffer, but at a slightly higher speed. Run 
 the points of this so-called dickey far enough 
 into the doffer wire, and keep them smooth 
 and sharp. Anthony. 
 
 When running different kinds of stock, a 
 cylinder speed of 90 revolutions per minute 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 59 
 
 gives the best results. There are cases, how- 
 ever, when this speed might be changed with 
 advantage. For example, if a mill is running 
 on all wool and fine stock that requires a good 
 deal of carding and flies but little from the 
 card while running, the main cylinder might 
 be run somewhat higher, say 100 or 110 revo- 
 lutions per minute. Then there are some 
 instances where the best results can be obtained 
 at a lower speed than 90, such as when the 
 machine is running on short, coarse open stock, 
 that drops more under the card. If shoddy 
 is used in the mixes the card will not open it 
 up so well at any speed below 90, and on that 
 grade of stock, if the cylinders are run higher 
 than 90, they will drop so much as not to be 
 profitable. 
 
 The first breaker doffer is usually run a little 
 slower than the second. We will assume that 
 the finisher cards are fitted with Apperly feeds 
 or some other feed of that description, so I 
 will speak only of the second breaker doffer, 
 which is assumed to be 24 or 30 inches in di- 
 ameter. The usual speed of this doffer is about 
 15 turns per minute, but this speed must be 
 varied according to circumstances. The main 
 thing is to lay the feed on the feed table as soft 
 and light as possible. If a large amount of 
 stock is running through the cards it may be 
 necessary, in order to keep the drawing down 
 to the proper size, to run the second breaker 
 doffer a little faster than 15. If good fine wool 
 
60 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 
 
 is used, or stock -where a large tube could be 
 used, or when making light weight yarns from 
 good stock, both first and second breakers may 
 be run slower, in some cases as low as 10 revolu- 
 tions per minute. For wool cards running 
 on cotton, where the results are similar to cards 
 running on coarse wool stocks, the speed should 
 be about the same, or possibly a little lower. 
 
 A. B. H. 
 I have found that a speed of 85 r. p. m. serves 
 very well for a breaker 48 inches in diameter. 
 The relative speed of the cylinder and doffer 
 depends on the kind of stock to be carded and 
 the results desired in the goods. For instance, 
 with a half blood territory wool that is im- 
 perfectly carded, it is very difficult to open it 
 on the card. For a daily production of 225 
 pounds of yarn on a 48-inch set with a 24-inch 
 doffer, a doffer speed of 10 or 11 turns will give 
 good results. If the wool is specially open 
 and lofty the doffer may be speeded to 12 or 13 
 turns. Usually I run the doffers on the first and 
 second breakers at the same speed, unless the 
 clothing on the cylinder is in poor condition; then 
 I run the doffers faster in order to relieve the 
 cylinder wire. I am running an iron wire cylin- 
 der today that has been run for 25 years. I find 
 it is always better to run the doffer a little 
 sl< >wer on wool and shoddy mixes than on all wool. 
 I have run 20-inch doffers as slow as 8 turns on 
 stock composed of 60 per cent, fine wool and 40 
 per cent, shoddy, spun to 3 :5 4 ' runs, 48-inch set. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 6 1 
 
 When running colored mixes better results 
 can sometimes be obtained by reducing the 
 speed of the doffer one or two turns per minute. 
 It is not advisable to run the doffer so slow as 
 to crowd the doffer wire, as this causes rough 
 work, especially on shoddy mixes. With a 
 48-inch cylinder running 85 r.p.m. and a 24- 
 inch doffer running 13 r. p. m. the surface speed 
 of the cylinder will be 12,817 inches per minute, 
 and the surface speed of the doffer 980 inches 
 per minute, or in the proportion of 13 to 1. 
 With a 42-inch cylinder running 98 r. p. m. and 
 a 20-inch doffer running 10 r. p. m., the two 
 surfaces will be running in the proportion of 20 
 to 1. The doffer should run fast enough to 
 take all the stock the cylinder delivers, without 
 crowding the doffer wire. I should want to 
 increase the speed of the ring doffers by one or 
 two revolutions per minute with Apperly feeds, 
 and if the first and second breakers were already 
 carrying as heavy a load as was desirable, I 
 would increase the speed of the breaker doffers. 
 This would prevent the doffer from dwelling 
 at the cylinder long enough to get overcrowded. 
 G. L. P. 
 
 Testing Merino Yarns 
 
 Please give me a formula for testing merino 
 varns to find the proportion of cotton and wool. 
 
 Hilton (788). 
 
 The proportions of cotton and wool in mixed 
 fabrics are easily determined by weighing a sam- 
 
62 KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 pie before and after boiling out in a solution of 
 caustic potash or soda, boiling it for about fifteen 
 minutes and then drying. The solution should 
 contain about 10 per cent, by weight of the caus- 
 tic, that is to say, 90 per cent, of water and 10 
 per cent, of caustic alkali. The wool is dissolved 
 by the alkali and the cotton is but little affected. 
 Consequently the residue represents the amount 
 of cotton in the original sample. It is well to 
 add about 5 per cent, of the weight of the residue 
 to allow for the loss of weight of the cotton in 
 the process. 
 
 Scouring Wool 
 
 We are using a greasy medium crossbred 
 merino wool and scour it with a mixture of lard 
 and paraffine oils. The yarn comes out a gray- 
 ish tint after scouring and takes twice as much 
 soap and handling to get it a clear white. Can 
 you give me any information in regard to the 
 oil and soap to use? Roseau (634). 
 
 The difficulty encountered in this case is un- 
 doubtedly due to the original scouring of the 
 wool in the raw state. The great amount of 
 grease usually carried by these wools is such that 
 it must all be removed in the first scouring. To 
 do this properly requires that the first scour 
 liquor should be heated to 120 degrees Fahrenheit 
 and contain both soap and sal soda. After pass- 
 ing through this bath it is further treated in a 
 bath of soap only at the same temperature and 
 followed bv a rinse of warm water. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AXD SPINNERS 63 
 
 The amount of soap necessary can be deter- 
 mined only by a trial and the same applies to the 
 sal soda. In the first scour bath it will be found 
 valuable to add small quantities of ordinary 
 kerosene, say half a pint. This gradually be- 
 comes emulsified with the aid of the soap and has 
 a very beneficial action on the wool grease, be- 
 sides softening the wool. It leaves no odor. 
 
 The second scour liquor in turn becomes the 
 first scour liquor by the addition of soap and sal 
 soda, while the rinse waters pass on and become 
 second and first scours. 
 
 After the scoured wool has been dried and 
 oiled and converted into yarns, then any of the 
 defects present are visible. As a rule, if too 
 much wool oil has not been used, an ordinary 
 scour with soap liquors should be ample to re- 
 move all added grease. 
 
 Probably the difficulty is not with either the 
 wool or the soap, but with lime or magnesia in 
 the water used, and which in the yarn scouring 
 unites with the lard oil, forming a dirty, dis- 
 agreeable residue on the wool fibres that resists 
 ordinary scouring processes. In the absence of 
 a sample of the wool or the water used, the above 
 explanation and suggestions are the best we can 
 offer. Georee Wallace. 
 
 Even and Uneven Roving 
 
 I am boss spinner in a woolen mill. About 
 two weeks ago, the weavers complained about 
 lumps in the filling which broke in the eye of 
 
64 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 the shuttle. The mules are set just the same 
 as they always were. Can you tell me where 
 the trouble is? Grant (994). 
 
 Since carding and spinning go hand in hand 
 in woolen manufacturing, it is first necessary 
 to refer briefly to carding. As a rule the carder 
 calculates his roving to be drawn down to about 
 one half, on the mule, in order to assist in draw- 
 ing out and reducing any lumps or other irregu- 
 larities in the roving in the final yarn produced. 
 There will be no trouble in drawing out a good 
 even roving made from long, even-stapled wools, 
 this one-half or more in spinning; however, the 
 best spinner will find it impossible to draw out 
 uneven roving or such as made from short 
 staple stock more than one-third, without keep- 
 ing the mule standing most of the time piecing 
 up broken ends. 
 
 With reference to uneven roving delivered to 
 the spinning room, the lumpy sorts will be the 
 ones making the most trouble, in fact if not im- 
 possible for a fine thread to be spun out of it, 
 since it is a well-known law in spinning that the 
 lumps will take the twist only after the thin 
 places between the lumps are twisted extra 
 hard. This naturally tends to increase in pro- 
 portion the size of the lumps, and in turn reduce 
 the thinner places still more. 
 
 In order to explain this subject, the accom- 
 panying two illustrations are given. Fig. 1 re- 
 presents an uneven, lumpy, unspun roving or 
 carded wool. Examining the illustration, we 
 
KINKS FOR CAKDEKS AND SPINNERS 
 
 65 
 
 will find that instead of having an even surface, 
 the roving is lumpy, caused either possibly on 
 account of dull card wires, or insufficient card- 
 ing, or improperly prepared stock, etc. Such 
 roving may now and then occur in any mill, 
 but it should be seldom the case, and if found, 
 the trouble at once remedied by proper attention 
 to the set of cards where it was made. 
 
 In drawing out this roving on the mule, the 
 same receives a few turns per inch as the car- 
 riage backs off. The drafting occurs at this 
 point, and since the tendency is for the twist 
 to take effect between the lumps, as previously 
 mentioned, it follows that the lumps are more 
 or less untouched with reference to twists by 
 the mule, remaining soft and pliable, and being 
 drawn out only slightly in size. The thinner 
 places between the lumps have taken all the 
 twist which actually ought to have gone in the 
 full length of the thread under operation, said 
 fine hard twisted portions of the yarn not draw- 
 ing down any to speak of. For this reason the 
 mule does little toward correcting such imper- 
 fect roving, resulting in an uneven yarn as 
 
66 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 readily seen by means of examining diagram 
 Fig. 2, where we see that the bunches, as men- 
 tioned before, although slightly drawn out as 
 to size, are yet distinct in the thread, the thinner 
 portions of the thread having taken all the twist, 
 clearly showing too much of it. The reason for 
 this is found in the fact that the larger in cir- 
 cumference a body, the harder it is to revolve 
 it, and since the lumps in the roving are of a 
 larger diameter as compared to the thinner 
 portions of the thread, it consequently follows 
 that said lumpy portions of the thread acquire 
 little, if any, twist compared to the thinner 
 portions; in fact all the thinner portions in the 
 full stretch of roving under operation must be 
 twisted solidly into a wire, as we might say, 
 before twist is put in the larger places, i. e., 
 the bunches, each bunch acting as a pin of a 
 fixed lever for the length of the thin roving ad- 
 joining. 
 
 The proper amount of the draft to be put in 
 the yarn at the mule, requires good judgment, 
 the rule usually observed being that the longer 
 and coarser the stock, the quicker the drawing 
 should be. If the roving pulls out from between 
 the draft rollers during drawing, it is a sure sign 
 that the draft is too slow, and for which reason 
 put on a larger draft gear (backing off gear), or 
 let out on the upper steady rope and take up at 
 the bottom. If the roving snaps off about half 
 way between the draft roll and the tops of the 
 spindle during drawing, it is an indication that 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 67 
 
 the carriage is backing off too quickly, the twist 
 not having a chance to take hold, and in which 
 instance reverse the previously given advice. 
 
 Conrad. 
 
 Ammonia in Wool Scouring 
 
 Is there any other form of ammonia besides 
 aqua, such as carbonate of sulphate, that would 
 be more economical in wool scouring than the 
 liquidr Elm Hill (682). 
 
 A number of wool scourers to whom we have 
 addressed inquiries advise us that they know of 
 no other form of ammonia for wool scouring 
 than the aqua, and that is very economical and 
 convenient . 
 
 Covering Cylinder Grinders 
 
 I have just taken a position as overseer in an 
 eight-set mill and find the cards in a bad state, 
 and the grinders nearly used up. What I want 
 to find out is how to cover cylinder grinders 
 with emery and also with emery cloth. And 
 I would like to know which one does the better 
 work. Connie (1039) 
 
 A first-class emery cylinder well and evenly 
 covered will do good work. It is also regarded 
 as a time saver. These facts have operated to 
 retard the use of the traverse grinder to some 
 extent. The cylinder must be true and evenly 
 balanced. The secret of putting the emery on 
 even lies in putting on an even covering of glue. 
 Some use glue alone; some use half glue and 
 
68 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 half glycerine, and some use Le Page's fish glue. 
 I use the last and prefer it. 
 
 Many mills are now using emery cloth fil- 
 leting for covering grinders, because it can be 
 put on so much more evenly than by the old 
 way. First wind the emery fillet on the tension 
 drum, the same as you would if covering a 
 worker. Have the clyinder clean and perfectly 
 free from grease so that the glue will stick to 
 the surface. Have the glue warm and in some 
 shallow dish, so that you can dip your fingers 
 in the glue and rub it over the cylinder with 
 your hands instead of a brush. By putting it 
 on this way you can get it more even and thinner 
 on the cylinder. The glue should be as even 
 and as thin as possible. 
 
 When . you have the cylinder covered with 
 glue, wash your hands and commence to wind 
 on the emery fillet as you would clothe a worker, 
 being careful that no loose emery drops on the 
 cylinder or under the fillet. D. V. 
 
 Winding Under on Woolen Mules 
 
 We are having considerable trouble with the 
 yarn winding under the bobbins on our mules. 
 This causes the yarn to break when it is spooled 
 or woven from the shuttle. We think it is 
 caused by the spinner's allowing the fallers to 
 get too high. Are we right? If not, what is 
 the remedy? Tippecanoe (377). 
 
 This trouble of winding under on woolen mules 
 is very annoying and, unfortunately, very fre- 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AXD SPIXXERS 69 
 
 quent in woolen mills. Attention to the care 
 and management of the machine will generally 
 remedy the trouble, but is one in which constant 
 attention is essential, otherwise the difficulty 
 will recur. A prominent builder of spinning 
 machinery, to whom this question was submitted, 
 writes the following: 
 
 "There are several things that can cause this 
 trouble. In the first place the faller chain may 
 be too high; secondly, the mule may be backing 
 off too much, leaving the ends too slack; thirdly, 
 there may be a flat place on the roll that runs 
 on the rail; fourthly, the track may not be level, 
 or there may be a low spot in the track as a 
 result of the floor having sprung; again the 
 trouble may arise from the shoe being too 
 straight. The remedies for the above faults will 
 readilv suggest themselves." 
 
 Care of Garnett Machines 
 
 I would like to see an article in the Textile 
 World Record on taking care of and running 
 garnett machines. Lockhart (578). 
 
 The garnett machine is used to card and open 
 out hard or soft twisted yarn waste. Knots and 
 cops pulled from the bobbin should be cut before 
 being fed to the machine. The waste should be 
 sorted and such foreign matters as broom corn, 
 sticks, nails, leather, etc., taken out. Garnett 
 machines are not made to work up such things. 
 The garnett machine is very delicate and expen- 
 
70 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 sive and the wire requires great care, while 
 repairs are very costly. 
 
 The material should be fed on evenly and not 
 very heavy, a specially adapted Bramwell feed 
 is the best. A garnett machine will do just 
 so much work and do it well, and no more. 
 Dirty or dusty waste should be run through a 
 duster; the cleaner the stock the longer the 
 machines will run without stripping. 
 
 Good judgment must be used in setting the 
 machine in order to obtain the best results and 
 it must be set to suit the particular quality and 
 class of stock to be manipulated. In other 
 respects it is set like a card. The feed rolls should 
 be set so they will mesh each other if possible. 
 Set the top workers with a graduating gauge — 
 32, 33, 34. The fancy and fancy stripper should 
 be set to the cylinder with a 36-gauge, or as close 
 as possible without striking. Set the doffers 
 with a 34 guage or as close as possible without 
 striking. 
 
 The fancy driving pulleys on cylinder shaft 
 and on the fancy shaft, should be covered with 
 leather, with the flesh side out and the belt 
 should be put on the fancy pulley and run with 
 the hair side next to the pulley. The fancy 
 should not be allowed to run if it gets filled with 
 stock. Keep it stripped clean. So far as good 
 work is concerned the fancy is the most impor- 
 tant part of the garnett machine. If the fancy 
 does not work properly everything else will go 
 wrong. The belts on the fancy must be so 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 7 1 
 
 tight they cannot slip, and the cylinders and 
 doffers must be cleaned before they become 
 glazed over. If these suggestions are carried 
 out there will be no trouble in getting good 
 work from the garnett machine. 
 
 Sam Driver. 
 
 Soft Noses on Cops 
 
 How can a woolen or worsted mule be pre- 
 vented from making soft noses on tops of cops 
 without a nosing motion? Stamford (670). 
 
 There are various things that would cause a 
 bobbin or cop to be soft on the top. First, if 
 the quadrant arm is too far from the vertical 
 the nose will be too loose. Second, the trouble 
 might be in the builder shoes; they not 
 being adjusted properly, as is often the case. 
 Set the rail on the forward and back shoes so 
 that when the builder is wound up the studs 
 will be close to the top of the incline. The 
 adjustment for both shoes at once is made by 
 the slot in that part of the rail opposite the 
 inclined side. If necessary change the position 
 of the back shoe, without moving the front 
 shoes, by the small rod connecting the two. 
 For cops I would suggest that the shoe on the 
 inside be set so that the end of the builder rail 
 be just on the edge of the groove on the shoe, 
 ready to start down as soon as the builder starts 
 to work. 
 
 It is sometimes necessary to have a special 
 shoe on the front end of the builder rail. For 
 
72 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 cops this can be secured from the shops where 
 the mules are made. At the rear end of the rail 
 there should be a hinged flip, one end hinged 
 to the rail and the other end resting on a set 
 screw, and as the rail is lowered the flip, which 
 is adjustable, becomes raised on a level with 
 the rail. Now the end attached to the rail is 
 lowered with it while the end resting on the 
 casting remains stationary. As a result the 
 angle on the corner of the flip becomes raised 
 above the surface of the builder rail, and as the 
 carriage comes against the back stops the builder 
 rail traveler, strikes the projection thus formed, 
 and imparts a sharp flip to the winding faller. 
 The effect of this is to wind a few turns of yarn 
 down over the nose of the bobbin, making a 
 firm nose and preventing the yarn from slubbing 
 up the bobbin. 
 
 Then again the trouble might be in the drum 
 gear, which is driven by the quadrant chain. 
 This gear should be larger for the winding of 
 cops. They have any desired number of teeth 
 for this gear at the shops where the mules are 
 made. Spinner. 
 
 Core Yarn 
 
 We enclose a sample of core yarn and would 
 like you to advise us how this yarn is made; 
 that is, how the cotton thread is inserted. 
 
 Elm Hill (783). 
 
 A number of years ago I experimented with 
 this yarn, making it first on an ordinary twister 
 
KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 73 
 
 by running a cotton thread and a sliver of 
 carded roving from the woolen finisher card 
 together, and obtained encouraging although 
 imperfect results. Later I learned of a better 
 method, which consisted in running the carded 
 cotton thread back of the whip roll through the 
 rub rolls of the condenser on a woolen card and 
 letting the condenser rolls rub the carded sliver 
 around the cotton. In this way I obtained 
 very good results indeed and have samples of 
 cloth woven with both warp and filling made 
 of this core yarn. The sample submitted has 
 two core threads and I am in doubt whether 
 these two were run together behind the whip 
 roll, or whether two core threads were taken 
 from the card and run on the twister. Possibly 
 it was made by a third method by which the 
 loosely twisted two-ply cotton thread was run 
 on the card. A. Sedal. 
 
 Cost of Raw Material 
 
 We have run our woolen material heretofore 
 on Kentucky jeans, but recently have begun 
 the manufacture of a so-called all wool piece 
 dyed cheviot, made from a mixture of coarse wool 
 and waste. We had determined the shrinkage 
 in manufacturing and cost of our jean fabric 
 very closely from statistics of operations during 
 previous years. We have no such statistics to 
 guide us with the new cloth and have estimated 
 the cost as best we can. We would like to know 
 what is the best and quickest way of testing 
 the accuracv of our estimate as we do not want 
 
74 KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 to continue manufacturing the goods if the busi- 
 ness is to result in a loss. 
 
 Chattanooga (455). 
 
 The cost of raw material can be determined 
 by keeping a record of a lot of stock; the larger 
 the lot the more accurate is the test. The record 
 should be kept of the weight and value of the 
 raw material as well as of the waste obtained 
 from it, also of the number of yards of finished 
 cloth made from the lot of stock selected for the 
 test . Following is the record of a test of a piece 
 dyed cheviot fabric which will illustrate the 
 method : 
 
 Stock weighed in the picking room, 
 
 6,790 lbs. wool, at 45c. per lb $3,055.50 
 
 12,$76 lbs. waste, at 15c. per lb 1,885.60 
 
 Total $4,941.10 
 
 Waste made from this batch, 
 
 2,904 lbs. at 15c. per lb 435.60 
 
 Xet cost of stock $4,505 . 50 
 
 The finished cloth obtained from this material 
 amounted to 7,227 yards 6-4. The cost of the 
 raw material per yard was therefore: 
 
 $4,505.50-4- 7.227 = $0,623, cost of raw ma- 
 terial per yard. 
 
 There is no method as simple as this for de- 
 termining the cost of manufacturing. The best 
 method is to extend the product for any period 
 between inventories at the estimated cost and 
 then comparing the total with the actual cost 
 as indicated bv the mill accounts. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 75 
 
 Advantages of Apperly Feed 
 
 Our finisher card has been fed from a creel 
 just the same as the second breaker. I know 
 several reasons why an Apperly feed would be 
 better, but I want more so I can throw out the 
 old creels and get better roping. Will you give 
 me several reasons? Thomas (98-4). 
 
 Among the advantages claimed for this feeder 
 are: 
 
 1 Improvement in the roping produced, 
 making the yarn more even and stronger with 
 less twist 
 
 2 Increase of production 
 
 3 Saving of labor in card room 
 
 4 Saving of waste in card room and also in 
 spinning room 
 
 5 More perfect mixing 
 
 6 Saving of time in changing lots 
 
 7 Saving of space 
 
 8 The Kemp positive geared traveller lays 
 the stock down on the feed table without strain 
 the full width of the card so that it goes evenly 
 to the feed rolls so fine and heavy ends are 
 avoided. J. M. P. 
 
 Yarn Numbering 
 
 Please state the relation between the worsted 
 and cut systems of yarn numbering. What 
 would 2-20 cut yarn be equivalent to by the 
 worsted system? Broome (358). 
 
 The Simplex Yarn Tables (published by Textile 
 World Record, price 50 cents) give an explanation 
 
76 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 of the basis of each system and also enable one 
 to find the equivalent of any system in the units 
 of the others. No. 1 worsted = 2-3 cotton; 
 1.86 linen lea or woolen cut; .35 run. No. 1 
 linen lea or woolen cut = .535 worsted; .357 
 cotton; .1875 run. From this it is clear that 
 No. 2-20 cut is equal to single 10 cut or No. 5.35 
 worsted. 
 
 As all our systems of yarn numbering are 
 based upon the fixed weight of one pound, their 
 proportions are expressed by the length of the 
 skeins used for them. Thus: Linen or woolen 
 cut, 300 yards; worsted, 560 yards; cotton, 
 840 yards; woolen run, 1,600 yards. 
 
 Run and Grain Systems 
 
 We wish to change our system of weighing 
 yarns. We have been using the grain system 
 based on 20 yards. We want to use the run 
 system. What would 70 or 80 grain yarn equal 
 by the run system? Maryland (486). 
 
 The reduction of the 20-yard grain system is 
 very simple. 
 
 Dividing 873^ by the grains gives the runs. 
 
 Dividing 87 ^ by the runs gives the grains. 
 
 Ex. Find the run equivalent of 70 grain 
 yarn. — 87.5 -f- 70 = 1}4 runs. 
 
 Ex.. Find the run equivalent of 80 grain 
 yarn.— 87.5 -i- 80 = 1.09, or nearly 1 1-10 runs. 
 
 Ex. Find the run equivalent of 50 grain 
 yarn. — 87.5 -4- 50 = 1 7-8 runs. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 77 
 
 Ex. Find the grain equivalent of 2 run yarn. 
 
 — 87.5 -f- 2 = 43% grains. 
 
 Ex. Find grain equivalent of 3 run yarn. — 
 87.5 -h 3 = 29 2-10 grains. 
 
 Ex. Find the grain equivalent of 5 run yarn. 
 
 — 87.5 -1-5= 173^2 grains. 
 
 The runs indicate the number of 1600-yard 
 lengths in one pound. The various equivalents 
 of this basis are as fullows: 
 
 1600-yard lengths in one pound. 
 
 100-yard lengths in one ounce. 
 
 1-yard length in 4 3-8 grains. 
 The run system is very convenient for cal- 
 culating the weight of yarn in ounces, because 
 the runs indicate the number of hundred-yard 
 lengths per ounce. Thus l}-{ runs measure 125 
 yards per ounce. 
 
 Ex. Find ounces of warp per yard of cloth 
 made with 1440 ends of \ x /i run yarn. — 1440 -f- 
 125 = 11.5 ounces warp per yard. 
 
 Ex. Find ounces of filling per yard of cloth 
 woven 80 inches wide with 28 picks of 2 run yarn. 
 
 80 X 28 = 2240 yards. 
 
 2240 -i- 200 = 11.2 ounces filling per yard. 
 No allowance is here made for take-up in warp 
 or slack in filling. 
 
 Calculating Weight of Sliver 
 
 The first breaker of a set of woolen cards is 
 fitted with a Bramwell feed, the second breaker 
 with a Torrance creel, and the third breaker or 
 finisher card with an Apperly feed or a creel. 
 
78 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 What is the method of calculating the weight 
 of ends or sliver that should enter these feeds 
 in order to give a 6-run roving? 
 
 Milton (867). 
 No set rule can be given for calculating the 
 size of the drawing for a given size of roving. 
 The carder must use his own judgment, taking 
 care not to have it too heavy or there will be 
 difficulty in passing it through the guides on the 
 second breaker. If the drawing is too heavy 
 on the feed table of the Apperly feed the roving 
 is apt to be lumpy; the finer the drawing and 
 the more of it on the feed table the better the 
 roving. With a creel on the second breaker and 
 an Apperley feed on the finisher the size of the 
 roving is regulated by an adjustment of the 
 gears. Sam Driver. 
 
 Turning up Cylinders, Etc. 
 
 I am carder in a mill that is going to shut 
 down for two weeks to give the workers a va- 
 cation and make a lot of repairs. A great deal 
 of work can be done in the card room, and I 
 wish you would write me, or publish in the 
 Textile World Record, the best way of turning 
 cylinders, doffers, workers, etc. 
 
 Colo (1133). 
 
 In turning up a lag cylinder first take out 
 the ends and have the second hand or some 
 other responsible person tighten all the inside 
 lag bolts. The bearings should be rebabbitted 
 if worn much. The cylinder should be placed 
 on balancing irons to see if it is balanced, espec- 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AXD SPIXXERS 79 
 
 ially if it is a finisher cylinder. These important 
 points are very often neglected. It is against 
 the spinner's interest if these things are neglected. 
 
 Get a spirit level and place the doffer, cylinder 
 and tumbler in position; get them as level as 
 possible; be sure to have the cylinder level by 
 all means. Place the rest or turning lathe on 
 the card frame, block up high enough so that 
 the cutting edge of the tool will be a little above 
 the centre of the cylinder. Level the rest 
 lengthways and sideways; be sure you get it 
 perfectly level both ways or your cylinder will 
 not be turned off true. Fasten rest to frame 
 with a long bolt or carpenter's large screw 
 clamp; see that all the old tacks are out; ham- 
 mer the plugs down and replace all that go 
 down; get a stick and set both ends of rest the 
 same distance from the cylinder shaft. 
 
 Drive a tack half way in each end and middle 
 of cylinder. Now hook a steel tape on the 
 tacks and run it around the cylinder. This will 
 give the exact circumference of both ends and 
 the middle of the cylinder and tell you if it is 
 the same at both ends. You very often find 
 one end of the cylinder larger than the other. 
 When this is the case, set the tool so that it 
 will take off a little heavier shaving on the side 
 that is largest. 
 
 Have the cutting tool sharp and set up to 
 cylinder on both ends; set the tool so it will not 
 have too much cutting edge; set it so it will 
 cut on the corner first time across. Run the 
 
So KIXKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 tape around every time across; take very light 
 shavings. Before going across each time move 
 the cutting edge of the tool so it will cut a little 
 wider shaving each time. When finished, do 
 not use sand paper; it will be smooth enough. 
 Run the tape around once more; when finished, 
 both ends and the middle should be exactly 
 alike in circumference. 
 
 Draw a line with a pencil around the cylinder 
 one-half inch from each edge; then place the 
 pencil on the rest and draw a line across the 
 cylinder; this is the starting line at which to 
 commence dividing the circumference. 
 
 If there are 21 sheets, divide the circum- 
 ference of the cylinder into 21 spaces. When 
 you have it spaced off correctly make dot marks 
 at each space; use some kind of a flat tool made 
 with a narrow, sharp, flat point, something like 
 a file. Place this tool on the rest flat side down 
 and mark off the spaces; this makes a straight 
 line and cuts in the wood and is better than a 
 pencil mark. When you cut off the welts on 
 each sheet, place the point of the knife in the 
 cut mark. This will guide the knife and you 
 can cut off the welts perfectly straight. When 
 spaced off, remove the rest, leaving the blocks 
 on; clean up the shaving and we are ready to 
 nail on the cylinder sheets. 
 
 The doffer can be turned off the same as the 
 cylinder on some makes of cards by raising the 
 bearing up high enough and placing the rest on 
 the end of the card frame. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 8 1 
 
 Fancies and other small rolls can be turned 
 off in the grinder frame, always remembering to 
 have the cutting edge of the tool a little above 
 the centre of the frame. 
 
 When turning off a block cylinder set the cut- 
 ting edge of the tool near the point or corner 
 of tool; some use a gouge tool. D. R. S. 
 
 White Wool for Mixtures 
 
 I would like information on the method of 
 preparing white wool for mixtures. 
 
 W. W. (986). 
 
 When white wool is mixed with black in the 
 raw state the mixture has a better appearance 
 if the white retains a part of its natural yellow 
 shade. Bleached white makes the mixture look 
 harsh when mixed with black, on account of the 
 sharp contrast. Moreover bleaching is expen- 
 sive. Various methods have been introduced 
 to displace bleaching by removing a portion 
 of the yellow shade of the fibre, among them 
 being the following: 
 
 1. For 100 pounds of wool, 13^ pounds of 
 oxalic acid and 1 pound of sulphuric acid 66 
 Be., are dissolved separately, then added to 
 2,000 pounds of water at 120° F. When starting 
 the bath it is advisable to add double the quan- 
 tities named. The wool is then entered and at 
 the end of 35 or 40 minutes the yellow shade 
 will be largely removed. The wool is then taken 
 out and rinsed several times. 
 
82 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 2. For 100 pounds of wool \ x /i pounds of 
 chloride of tin and 1 pound of hydrochloric acid 
 are dissolved in water and then added to the 
 bath, which is heated to 165° F. and % to 4-10 
 of a pound of sulphate of indigo paste added. 
 The dyer must regulate the amount of indigo 
 to suit the requirements of each case. The wool 
 is worked in this bath for one hour. 
 
 3. For 100 pounds of wool 34 to 4-10 of a 
 pound of Prussian blue is dissolved with four 
 times the quantity of oxalic acid, forming a 
 concentrated solution. This is added to the 
 bath with 13 to 14 pounds of sulphate of soda. 
 The wool is worked from three-quarters to one 
 hour at 150° F. 
 
 4. For 100 pounds of wool x /i to }/ 2 an ounce 
 of Formyl Violet S 4 B, y 2 pound of acetic acid 
 (increased if the water contains lime) and 4 
 pounds of sulphate of soda are dissolved in the 
 bath in which the wool is worked at 160° F. 
 
 5. This is process 4 with 1 to l^j ounces of 
 cyanole extra added to the bath. 
 
 6. The wool is worked in a bath of bisulphite 
 of soda at 2° Be. at a temperature of 100° F., 
 to which is added 1-3 of an ounce of methylene 
 blue. The wool is worked for one hour, then 
 taken out and rinsed. Any of the above methods 
 will leave the wool in good condition for mixes, 
 and all have the advantage of simplicity, 
 
 P. Hoffman. 
 
KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 83 
 
 Wire for Leader-In. 
 
 What kind of wire is used on the leader-in 
 for ordinary to fine work, and is a wooden or 
 iron leader the best? Any other information 
 about the feed would be prized by me as the 
 wool does not come off our cards as evenly as 
 it ought to. Snelling (979) 
 
 In many mills there is no portion of a carding 
 machine so badly neglected as the feed-rolls and 
 their accessory cylinders. It is safe to assert 
 that if wool enters a card irregularly its exit 
 will be irregular, and no subsequent arrangement 
 will completely remedy such defect. 
 
 For the first card of a set the metallic feed- 
 rolls and the steel ring burr-cylinder are in- 
 dispensable; there can be no doubt on that 
 question, so I will, for the present, confine my 
 remarks more particularly to the best form and 
 arrangement of these parts for the second and 
 third cards. A wooden licker, or leader-in, 
 should never be used, but instead of it I would 
 recommend the iron cylinder, as it always keeps 
 true, besides forming a solid base for the clothing. 
 Whether it is of iron or wood the clothing should 
 be stretched on as tightly as possible so as to 
 maintain a stiff, upright position of the teeth. 
 No. 22 diamond point wire for ordinary to fine 
 work will answer very well. The bottom feed- 
 roll should be covered with the same kind of 
 clothing, and the top roll with Belgian pattern 
 diamond point, which will be easier to keep 
 clear. 
 
 The wiper or small stripper may be covered 
 
84 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 with ordinary No. 30 to 32 round wire, ground 
 smooth, and care should be taken not to injure 
 the teeth by pressing them forward with the 
 grinder. There is nothing so hard to grind in 
 a card as this roll, on account of its small cir- 
 cumference, and if it is done carelessly neither 
 it nor the feed-rolls will work satisfactorily. 
 Don't try to make a fine point on it; smooth- 
 ness is more essential. 
 
 For some kinds of wool the Belgian pattern 
 card covering might not be so suitable as round 
 wire or diamond point, as these have longer 
 teeth than the Belgian, but for fine wool or thin 
 feeds the latter clothing has some advantages. 
 
 Many carders are troubled with the diamond 
 point leaders-in rilling up with wool and gum- 
 ming in a short time. This makes them diffi- 
 cult to clean without injury to the teeth; they 
 soon lose their point also, and are never good 
 for much afterwards, as it is next to impossible 
 to grind a good point on them when worn. 
 These difficulties are at once remedied, and with 
 a saving in waste as well as an improvement in 
 the work, by adopting the following plan; 
 namely, to place a small fancy in the hollow 
 over the leader-in and tumbler. It should be 5 
 inches in diameter when covered with ordinary 
 fancy wire, and driven with a straight belt 
 from the end of the stripper. Its surface speed 
 should be faster than that of the leader-in, and 
 it is set so as to raise the wool on the latter 
 effectually, precisely as the fancy does on the 
 
KIXX5 TOR CARDERS AND SPIXXERS 85 
 
 main es :he tumt' 
 
 clear the leader-in thoroughly at each revolu- 
 and the latter may be run constantly for 
 months without og -rveral 
 
 pounds o: The point on the 
 
 leader-in will always be in good order by the use 
 of this fancy, thus enabling it to comb on 
 fibres from the feed-rolls in the be-: 
 ■ ■ 
 
 natty r.e-ds to be smooth as 
 well as to be ground and kept at a good work- 
 ing point. oly 1 clear the leader-in 
 regularly, but also to part with its wool to the 
 main cylinder with the most f acuity. Th 
 of the wire on a tumbler is not of so much con- 
 seque:. No. 30 tc 
 always be kept perfectly true. 
 
 It : ■•- t to adjust 
 
 rolls and First that they 
 
 ■ umbler as 
 ichrng the main 
 
 ier, then the leader-in and lower feed-roll 
 to each other, and the turn" 
 
 ■ - - 
 
 th of an inch from the leader-in and lower 
 
 " T "i; ;.er :r small stripper is ad- 
 
 ' se t : the upper feed-roll and leader-in. 
 
 so as te hard, at first 
 
 on the leader-in. but just to clear the tumbler. 
 
 [t -":'.'. ' -ders 
 
 made true, and so 
 
 - - I ill will ": -. ■ 
 
86 KINKS FOR CARDERS AND SPINNERS 
 
 of efficiency in regard to thorough opening and 
 carding of the wool, besides an increase of waste 
 and loss of time in cleaning it from the various 
 cylinders. On the other hand, if the cylinders 
 are true and arranged as described, the feed- 
 rolls will keep clear, the point of the leader-in 
 will be preserved for years, the work will be 
 much improved, and a considerable amount of 
 worry saved the carder. 
 
 In describing this arrangement it must be un- 
 derstood to refer to the modern card machine, 
 with the leader-in revolving in the same direc- 
 tion as the main cylinder, the latter clearing the 
 tumbler, which runs in the opposite direction. 
 The suggestions apply also to the Apperly feeder, 
 which contains its own feed-rolls, as well as two 
 feed-rolls for the ordinary spool rack or creel, 
 and which are usually attached to the card- 
 frame. 
 
 The wool is entered into the card free from 
 humps or other irregularities, and possibly one- 
 half the carding may be done at that point, 
 before going farther. No accumulation of fibres 
 or dirt must be allowed on any of these rolls or 
 cylinders. I would particularly impress upon 
 Snelling the importance of studying this matter 
 for himself, and I think he will need but little 
 urging afterwards to spend a good deal of care 
 on these generally despised parts of a carding 
 machine. John Randolph. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Adjusting Feed Rolls 85 
 
 Adjusting Ring Doffers 26 
 
 Adjusting Ring for Outside End 24 
 
 Advantages of Apperly Feed 75 
 
 Advantages of Automatically Oiling Stock 21 
 
 Ahiminum Process for Carbonizing 50 
 
 Ammonia in Wool Scouring 67 
 
 Apperly Feed, Fine Ends on 17 
 
 Automatic Feed, Advantages 75 
 
 Automatic Oiler 20 
 
 Bagdad Wool, Density of Bale 47 
 
 Balancing Scales, Brain well Feed 16 
 
 Blending and Oiling 5 
 
 Bramwell Feed, Fixing 12 
 
 Broken Drawing on Breakers, Cause of 39, 40 
 
 Brushing Ring Doffers 28 
 
 Calculating Production of Card 39 
 
 Calculating Weight of Sliver 77, 78 
 
 Calculations for Cost of Material 74 
 
 Calculations for Speed and Size of Pulleys 46 
 
 Calculations for Yarn Numbers 75, 76 
 
 Calculations, Run and Grain Systems 76, 77 
 
 Carbonizing IS 
 
 Carbonizing Apparatus 9, 10, 11 
 
 Carbonizing Rags for Shoddy 9 
 
 Carbonizing Wool by Aluminum Process 50 
 
 Card Clothing for Coarse Stocks 45 
 
 Card Clothing, Putting on 21 
 
 Carding Cotton Mixes 54 
 
 Carding Shoddy 51 
 
 Care in Grinding 48 
 
 Care of Card Working on Shoddv Lots 51 
 
 Care of Garnett Machines 69, 70 
 
 Causes of Soft Cops on Mule 71 , 72 
 
 Causes of Uneven Roping 35 
 
 Causes of Winding Under on Mules 69 
 
 Caustic Alkali Test 62 
 
 Coarse Stock, Clothing for 45 
 
 Concave Feed Rolls on Picker 7 
 
 Conditions Which Affect Speeds of Doffer and Cylinder, 56, 60 
 
 Cops Soft on Mule 71, 72 
 
 Core, Yarn, Making 72 
 
 Cost of Raw Material 73, 74 
 
 Cotton Mixes, Carding of 54 
 
 Cotton Tests 19 
 
88 INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Covering Cylinder Grinders 67 
 
 Creels, Filling 36 
 
 Crowding Stock in Feed, Effect of 38 
 
 Cylinder Grinders, Coverings 67, 68 
 
 Cylinder, Grinding 47 
 
 Cylinder Out of True, Effect of 37 
 
 Cylinder Packing 30 
 
 Cylinders, Turning up, etc 78, 79, 80 
 
 Density of Baled Wool 47 
 
 Deodorizing Wool Scouring Liquor 55 
 
 Doffer and Cylinder, Speed of 56, 60 
 
 Doffer, Keeping Sharp .49 
 
 Doffer Rings, Putting on 24 
 
 Doffer, Turning up 80 
 
 Draft on Mule 66 
 
 Drawing, Broken 39 
 
 Drv Process, Carbonizing 10 
 
 Dull Tumbler, Effect of 37 
 
 Emery Cloth on Traverse Grinders 8 
 
 Emery Fillet, Putting on Grinders 68 
 
 Emery, Putting on Grinders 67, 68 
 
 Equivalent Counts of Yarn 76, 77 
 
 Even and Uneven Roving 63 
 
 Fancy, Care of 31 
 
 Fancy, Grinding of 49 
 
 Fancy on Garnett Machine, Care of 70, 71 
 
 Fancy, Setting of 35 
 
 Fancv, Speed of 31, 33 
 
 Feeding Waste 13 
 
 Feed Rolls, Adjusting 85 
 
 Feed Rolls, Size of 37 
 
 Fibre Tests 19 
 
 Fine Ends on Apperly Feed 17 
 
 Finisher Card, Production of 38 
 
 Finisher, Wire for 44, 46 
 
 First Breaker, Wire for "44, 45 
 
 Fixing Bramwell Feed 12 
 
 Fulling Knickerbocker Nubs 30 
 
 Garnett Machines, Care of 69, 70 
 
 Gauging Ring Doffers 28 
 
 Grades of Wool 29 
 
 Grain System 76 
 
 Grinders, Covering Cylinder 67, 68 
 
 Grinding Cylinder, Method of 47 
 
 Grinding Fancy 34, 49 
 
 Grinding Ring Doffers 27 
 
 Hand Card for Matching 55 
 
 Handling Shoddy in Card Room . .51, 52, 53 
 
 Hard Grinding, Effect of 49 
 
 Knickerbocker Nubs 29 
 
 Leader-in, Wire for 83 
 
 Lumps in Yarn . 64 , 65 . 66 
 
 Lumpy Roving, Twist in 65, 66 
 
INDEX 89 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Making Core Yarn 73 
 
 Matching Mixtures 55 
 
 Material, Calculations for Cost • 74 
 
 Merino >< Blood, etc. Meaning of 29 
 
 Merino Yarns, Testing of 61 
 
 Mixer Picker, Setting 7 
 
 Mixes of Mungo and Shoddy 50 
 
 Mixtures, Matching 55 
 
 Mixtures, White Wool for 81 
 
 Mule, Draft on 66 
 
 Mule, Setting to Prevent Soft Noses 42 
 
 Mules, Winding Under on 68, 69 
 
 Mungo and Shoddy 23 
 
 Mungo and Shoddv Mixes 50 
 
 Mungo Blend 23 
 
 Muriatic Acid, Carbonizing 10 
 
 Noses, Soft on Mules, Remedy for 41 
 
 Noses Soft, Prevention without Nosing Motion. ►. . . .71, 72 
 
 Nubs for Knickerbockers .29 
 
 Numbering Yarn 75, 76 
 
 Oiling Coarse Wool 6 . 
 
 Oiling Fine Wool 5 
 
 Oiling Machine 20 
 
 Oiling Oxford Mix 6 
 
 Outside End Ring, Adjusting 24 
 
 Packing, Between Ring on Doffer 26 
 
 Packing Stocks in Cylinder 30 
 
 Picking, Object of 57 
 
 Preparing White Wool for Mixtures 81 
 
 Production of Finisher Card 38 
 
 Putting on Card Clothing 21 
 
 Putting on Doffer Rings 23 
 
 Qualitative Tests for Fibres 19 
 
 Random Roping. Making 28 
 
 Raw Material, Cost of 74, 75 
 
 Regulating Weight of Sliver 78 
 
 Relative Speeds of Cylinder and Doffer 60, 61 
 
 Remedy for Broken Drawing 40 
 
 Ring Board, Making 25 
 
 Ring Doffers, Adjusting 26 
 
 Ring Doffers, Grinding 27 
 
 Roping, Random 28 
 
 Run and Grain Systems 76 
 
 Scales, Setting and Balancing Bramwell Feed 16 
 
 Scouring Wool 62 
 
 Second Breaker, Wire for 44, 45 
 
 Setting Bramwell Feed 13 
 
 Setting Card for Cotton Mixes 54 
 
 Setting Cards for Knickerbocker Nubs 30 
 
 Setting Cards for Shoddy 52 
 
 Setting Draft on Mule 66. 67 
 
 Setting Fancy 34, 35 
 
 Setting Garnett Machines 70 
 
90 INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Setting Mixing Picker 7 
 
 Setting Mule to Prevent Soft Cops 71, 72 
 
 Setting Scale Pans 16 
 
 Setting Waste End Ring 18 
 
 Shoddy and Mungo 23, 50 
 
 Silk Tests 19 
 
 Size of Pulleys, Relation to Speed 46 
 
 Size of Wire for Cards 43, 44, 45 
 
 Sliver, Calculating Weight 78 
 
 Soft Noses on Mules, Cause of 41, 71, 72 
 
 Speed and Size of Pulleys 46 
 
 Speed of Card on Shoddv Lots 51 
 
 Speed of Cylinder 58, 59 
 
 Speed of Doffer and Cylinder 56, 60 
 
 Speed of Fancv 31 
 
 Spur Teeth Feed Rolls 8 
 
 Stock Packing in Cylinder 30 
 
 Sulphate of Soda for Carbonizing 18 
 
 Sulphuric Acid for Carbonizing 9 
 
 Support for Drawing 41 
 
 Testing Merino Yarns 61 
 
 Tests for Fibres 19 
 
 Traverse Grinders, Emery Cloth on 8 
 
 Tumbler, Wire for 85 
 
 Turning up Cylinders, etc 78, 79, 80 
 
 Twist in Lumpy Roving 65, 66 
 
 Uneven Roping, Causes of 63 
 
 Washing Wool, Process of 63 
 
 Waste End Ring, Setting 18 
 
 Waste Feeding 13 
 
 Weight of Sliver, Calculating 78 
 
 Wet Process, Carbonizing 9 
 
 White Wool for Mixtures 81 
 
 Winding Under on Mules 68, 69 
 
 Wire for Fancy 31, 32, 33 
 
 Wire for Finisher 44, 46 
 
 Wire for First Breaker 44, 45 
 
 Wire for Leader-In 83 
 
 Wire for Ordinary Stock 43 
 
 Wire for Second Breaker 44, 45 
 
 Wire, Size of 43, 44, 45 
 
 Wool, Grades of 29 
 
 Wool Scouring 62 
 
 Wool Scouring, Ammonia in 67 
 
 Wool Scouring Liquor, Deodorizing of 56 
 
 Wool Tests 19 
 
 Woolen Rags, Carbonizing 9 
 
 Yarn, Equivalent Counts of 76 
 
 Yarn Numbering 75 
 
Bowes 
 "Quality" 
 Belting 
 
 Specially suitable 
 for Carders 
 
 No slip, no waste of power 
 
 Genuine Oak Belting 
 
 TANNED IN THE 
 
 "OLD FASHIONED" WAY 
 
 GET SAMPLES 
 
 The L M* Bowes Company 
 
 451-463 Atlantic Avenue 
 BOSTON 
 
 41 Strawberry Street, Philadelphia 
 
Economical Lubrication 
 
 of Woolen Mills 
 
 We manufacture 
 
 Superior Grades of Oil 
 
 for every kind of lubrication 
 needed in a textile mill. 
 
 Knowing the high quality of 
 these oils and the savings effect- 
 ed by their use in other mills, 
 we will send a sufficient quan- 
 tity for thorough trial — pay- 
 ment subject to your approval. 
 
 Let us hear from you. 
 
 BORNE, SCRYMSER COMPANY 
 
 80 South Street, New York 
 
 Boston Fall River Philadelphia 
 
 Works, Claremont, N.J. 
 
a 
 
 Breton" oils for Wool 
 
 1880 
 
 1907 
 
 have 
 been 
 used on 
 all 
 grades 
 and 
 kinds of 
 woolen 
 goods 
 for 
 twenty- 
 seven 
 years 
 
 Mills that adopted them when first 
 introduced are using them now — 
 conclusive proof of unusual merit. 
 
 Tell us your work and 
 we will send a barrel of 
 the oil adapted to your 
 needs — payment sub- 
 ject to your approval. 
 
 BORNE, SCRYMSER COMPANY 
 
 80 South Street, New York 
 
 Boston Fall River Philadelphia 
 
 Works, Claremont, N. J. 
 
Our customers show 
 their appreciation of the 
 
 Henderson Card 
 
 by the repeat orders we 
 are receiving from them 
 
 We can cut the expense in 
 your card room and give you 
 the worsted effect you are 
 looking for, which no other 
 carding process is able to do. 
 We solicit your s patronage. 
 
 Manufactured by 
 
 James H. Whittle Co. 
 
 150 Harlow St., Worcester, Mass. 
 
CARD GRINDERS 
 
 We are recognized as 
 
 authority for everything 
 
 pertaining to the above. 
 
 Write and tell us what 
 
 you want and we will 
 
 be glad to quote prices. 
 
 Also builders of 
 
 Warpers, Bailers, Beamers 
 
 and 
 
 Patent Expansion Combs 
 
 for Warpers, Beamers 
 
 and Slashers : : : : 
 
 T. C. Entwistle Co. 
 
 LOWELL, MASS. 
 
The Bates (Sh Robinson 
 
 Patented 
 
 The purpose of our system of carding is to improve the quality 
 of the product, to straighten the fibers and make them lie more 
 parallel, and to work up short stock or low grade stock into rov- 
 ing of an excellent quality. Our system can be readily applied to 
 old carding machines, and it can be very rapidly and accurately 
 adjusted. The workers can be easily removed for stripping and 
 grinding. The yarn made by our process is evener and stronger 
 as the fibres are laid more parallel. 
 
 It has long been recognized that some process of recarding 
 would greatly improve the product of woolen cards and economize 
 space and labor. We believe we have perfected the process. 
 
 In our process we place the workers in pairs, using the strip- 
 pers for the first worker and the first worker without change. 
 The second worker is brought up to be in carding contact with the 
 first worker and its direction of rotation is reversed so that it 
 carries the stock over and back to the point between the two 
 workers where an additional carding takes place. 
 
 To carry the stock back and to strip the second worker, and 
 also to prevent the stock from accumulating in the trianglar space 
 between the workers, we use a small transfer roll as shown in the 
 cut, which strips the second worker and transfers the stock to the 
 first worker. 
 
 For Further Particulars, Address 
 
 Bates & Robinson 
 
 148 Warren St. 
 
Double Carding System 
 
 Aug. 22, 1005 
 
 The cut above shows the operation of our system as applied to 
 a single pair of workers. 
 
 By bringing the workers together in this fashion we can ordi- 
 narily get room for two extra workers, which is, of course, an 
 advantage. 
 
 Referring to the cut, it will be readily seen that the stock is 
 carded between the first worker and the main cylinder, between 
 the second worker and the main cylinder, and also between the 
 first and second workers. In addition to this, the stock carried 
 around by the second worker is recarded between the first worker 
 and the main cylinder. 
 
 We estimate that with our device applied to a 48-inch card we 
 obtain the quantity of product of a 60-inch card of the old style. 
 With other sizes of cards, the proportion is about the same. 
 
 It is a very simple matter to apply our process to old cards 
 as we supply new arches, properly arranged, together with the 
 transfer rolls and any additional workers which are ne 
 We thus make of the old card, a card which is better than a new- 
 card, and save the manufacturer the expense of a new card. 
 
 Some of the mills where we have our system attached to their 
 old cards, claim a saving of from five to twenty dollars per day, 
 per set of cards, by lowering the cost of their 1 
 
 We would be pleased to give you the names of the ma:, 
 where we have installed our system, and who claim this ss 
 
 Machine Company 
 
 Lowell, .Mass. 
 
The Bates Feed 
 
 for wool cards 
 
 -mmmmm'Ztjrmmmm: 
 
 The accompanying illustration represents the Bates 
 
 Feed, patented, for Second Breaker and 
 
 Finisher Wool Cards. 
 
 It is constructed with positively driven fluted distributing 
 rolls. These rolls are kept together by means of a weight 
 so arranged that they can adjust themselves to all sizes of 
 drawing. They lay the drawing on the feed without any 
 strain; and by so doing there is no latch required at either 
 side of the feed. 
 
 The feed is constructed with side plates which take the 
 place of all spike straps, which often break and run into the 
 card and spoil feed-rolls and licker-in. 
 
 The feed is also built with metalic feed-rolls. The teeth 
 of these rolls intersect, so as to prevent the stock from pull- 
 ing through in the middle of the feed, and causing coarse and 
 lumpy yarn. No card clothing is required for the feed-rolls, 
 consequently, there is no jamming down on the ends, and no 
 changing of card clothing, at a cost of eight to ten dollars 
 per feed. 
 
 The feed is ready to run when delivered at the mill. It 
 has no light, wide side, and heavy in the middle. It will run 
 with a soft, shoddy drawing, and not break back of the rolls, 
 as there is no strain on the drawing after it passes through 
 the rolls. 
 
 The rolls lay the edge of the feed straight. This prevents 
 the stock from dropping on the floor outside of the card. 
 
 These feeds are in the best mills in America. Will put 
 one on thirty days' trial for any reliable firm. 
 
 For further particulars, address 
 
 Bates & Robinson 
 Machine Company 
 
 P. O. Box 539 Lowell, Mass. 
 
Curtis & Marble Machine Co. 
 
 Worcester, Mass. 
 
 Builders of 
 
 Parkhurst Burr Pickers 
 Goddard Burr Pickers 
 Fearnaught Mixing Pickers 
 Atlas Wool Mixing Pickers 
 Atlas Picker Feeders 
 Atlas Hair Pickers 
 Steel Ring Burr Cylinders and 
 Feed Rolls for Wool Cards 
 
 Cloth Finishing Machinery for 
 Woolen, Worsted, Cotton Goods, 
 Carpets, Plushes, Velvets, Etc. 
 
 Successors to Atlas Mfg. Co. and Atlas 
 Foundry and Machine Co., N. J. 
 
Chas. Cain Son & Greenwood 
 
 HALIFAX, ENGLAND 
 
 The largest makers of 
 CARD CLOTHING 
 
 IN THE WORLD 
 OUT OF THE TRUST 
 
 Perfectly-tempered wire and 
 extra quality of foundation 
 not equalled by other makes 
 
 SOLE AGENT 
 
 The L 1VL Bowes Company 
 
 45 J -463 Atlantic Avenue 
 BOSTON 
 
 41 Strawberry Street, Philadelphia 
 
^A Vn waste kV 
 
 Ul\ T i-i MONEY JJ 1 
 attaching- to your cards, 
 
 WHITE'S 
 PATENT UNDER GRIDS 
 
 and the 
 
 Sherbrooke Patent 
 Single-Blower Waste End Conveyor 
 
 They have given t^ C > \C > \V > \ resu * ts 
 in scores of vj kJ kJLJ m i 11 s 
 
 Results Count 
 
 Rushton-Carroll Co= 
 
 Olneyville, R. I. 
 
 Send for Catalog and Trices 
 
Rome Soap Mfg, Co* 
 
 Rome, N. Y. 
 
 Olive Oils 
 
 Red Oils, Wool Oils 
 
 Wool Scouring Soaps 
 
 Am, Potashes and 
 
 Specialties 
 
DIAHONDTEXTILEMACHINEWORKS 
 
 Manufacturers of 
 
 TEXTILE and SPECIAL MACHINERY 
 
 BATT AND LAP MACHINERY, BLA- 
 MIERE LAP FEEDS AND LAP DRUMS, 
 RAG AND SHODDY PICKERS, LUMP- 
 ERS AND WILLOWS AND DUSTERS 
 FOR MAKING BATTING OR FELT OUT 
 OF COTTON, WOOL OR JUTE, ETC, 
 
 REELS for Cotton, Woolen RING TWISTERS 
 
 and Worsted Yarns. 
 
 SUN GILL BOXES. -APRONS of all descriptions 
 
 MULE SPOOLS, ETC. Z^H****' CanV&S "^ 
 
 SPROCKETS and GEARS 
 
 of all descriptions. Collars Findings for Worsteds and 
 
 and Steps for Self-Acting Woolen Machinery of 
 
 Mules. every description. 
 
 Gill Box Screws. Fluted Rollers of all descriptions. Mov- 
 ers and erectors of all kinds of Cotton, Woolen and 
 Worsted Machinery. Setting Up, Lengthen- 
 ing and Releveling Self-Acting Mules 
 a Specialty. 
 
 HUB FRICTION CLUTCHES 
 
 POWER TRANSMISSION MACHINERY 
 CARD CLOTHING 
 
 MILL SUPPLIES 
 
 C and Westmoreland Sts, Philadelphia, Pa,, U, S. A. 
 
Your Opportunity 
 
 may be looking for you. It may be a good man 
 looking for a position or a good position looking 
 for a man. In either case, it is a good plan to 
 meet it half way. Our 
 
 REGISTRY BUREAU 
 
 makes a specialty of bringing together manufac- 
 turers, superintendents and overseers. 
 
 To Manufacturers: 
 
 The men listed in our Registry Bureau are 
 not incompetents. They are men who have 
 made and are making successes in their work. 
 
 To Superintendents and Overseers: 
 
 If you want a position and are a subscriber to 
 the TEXTILE WORLD RECORD, our Registry 
 Bureau will help you. Your name will be listed 
 and positions referred to you without charge. It 
 pays to be a subscriber to the 
 
 Textile World Record 
 
 Subscription Price, $2*00 per year 
 
 LORD & NAGLE COMPANY, Publishers 
 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 
What do you read? 
 
 If two men wanted to talk with you, — one a 
 nice, pleasant chap who was agreeable, but didn't 
 know very much; and the other a superinten- 
 dent or manufacturer, with whom a talk would 
 be not only interesting, but valuable, — which 
 would you choose? 
 
 It is just the same in reading ; there are books 
 and papers which waste your time, and others 
 which improve it. 
 
 We will send free a descriptive catalogue of 
 all the books in the English language on textile 
 subjects, books which go into the mill with you. 
 
 LORD & NAGLE COMPANY 
 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 Publishers of the 
 
 Textile World Record 
 
It is peculiarly proper in this booklet on 
 "KINKS" to mention our recently patented 
 nosing motion and yarn evener for woolen 
 mules. This device absolutely prevents any 
 "kinks" in yarns, and produces uniform and 
 perfect bobbins. It also prevents yarn being 
 thrown off the point of the bobbin, and on finer 
 grades of stock it will pay for itself in one 
 week's time. The agent of one mill where 
 there are over fifty mules, states that in his 
 opinion it is the greatest improvement that has 
 been attached to a woolen mule in the last 
 twenty years. Write for circular and full in- 
 formation. 
 
 For thirty-seven years we have been devoting 
 our energies to the development and improve- 
 ment of wool spinning mules. We are the only 
 firm which confines itself to this specialty. Is it 
 not fair to assume that we can build mules to bet- 
 ter advantage than others ? Ought we not to make 
 the best mule? Think it over. We build mules 
 for all classes of yarn that can be spun upon the 
 woolen principle. There are about 1500 mills 
 in the United States using woolen mules. Over 
 800 are using ours, a large proportion of which 
 use ours exclusively. 
 
 Johnson & Bassett 
 
 Worcester, Mass. 
 
»» 
 
 The best "kink 
 for any carder 
 
 Nowadays carders are held responsible for 
 results. A carder's first duty to himself, 
 therefore, is to see that important parts of his 
 equipment are right. Nothing is more im- 
 portant than the feeders. It is a necessity 
 for him to have up-to-date Bramwell and 
 Kemp-Apperly feeds in the card room and 
 he should also have his picker room improved 
 with our latest BramWell Picker Feed and 
 Spencer Oiling Machine so that his stock 
 will come to the card room in the best possi- 
 ble condition for carding. If his card feeds' 
 are out of date he should allow us to put on 
 our modern parts and improvements. 
 
 Our feeding machinery is the standard and 
 is known as such from Canada to the Gulf 
 and from the Atlantic to the Pacific. We are 
 always ahead and a carder handicaps himself 
 by accepting inferior feeding machinery. 
 
 Our experience of fifty years is always at 
 your service. Our men are still with us who 
 started some of the original Bramwell feeds. 
 They have had long service but they have 
 developed the best feeding machines known 
 in the world. 
 
 Geo. S. Harwood & Son 
 
 53 State Street, Boston 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 Ill 
 
 021 928 371 4 %