EVERY LADY 
 
 (A 
 
 ^ 
 
 ADDRESSED TO THE 
 
 INDUSTRIOUS AND ECONOMICAL. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 SIMPLE AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 
 
 FOR 
 
 CULTIVATING PLANTS AND FLOWERS 
 
 IN THE GARDEN AND IN ROOMS. 
 
 
 BY LOUISA JOHNSON. 
 
 Revised from the Fourteenth London Edition, and Adapted to the 
 USE OF AMERICAN LADIES. 
 
 NEW YORK : 
 
 C. M. SAXTON, BARKER & CO., 25 PARK ROW. 
 SAN FRANCISCO: H. H. BANCROFT & CO. 
 
 1860. 
 
 
 
[ have been induced to compile this little work from hearing many of my 
 companions regret that no single book contained a sufficiently condensed and 
 general account of the business of a Flower Garden. " We require," they 
 said, "a work in a small compass, which will enable us to become our own 
 gardener; we wish to know how to set about everything ourselves, without 
 expense, without being deluged with Latin words and technical terms, and 
 without being obliged to pick our way through multiplied publications, re- 
 dolent of descriptions, and not always particularly lucid. We require a 
 practical work, telling us of useful flowers, simple mode? of rearing them, 
 simply expressed, and free from lists of plants and roots ivhich require ex- 
 pensive methods of preservation. Some of us have gardens, but we cannot 
 afford a gardener ; we like flowers, but we cannot attempt to take more 
 than common pains to raise them. We require to know the hardiest flowers, 
 and to comprehend the general business of the garden, undisturbed by fear 
 of failure, and at the most economical scale of expense. Who will write ua 
 such a book ? " 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 I have endeavored to meet their views ; and my plan oi Floriculture may 
 be carried into effect by any lady who can command the services of an old 
 man, a woman, or a stout boy. In the present Edition, the publishers have 
 added a paper on Window Gardening, written by Mr. M'Intosh — and 
 another on Domestic Greenhouses, an apparatus by which a small collec- 
 tion of exotics may be given in great perfection, and by a process which 
 any lady may superintend with much gratification. In every other respect 
 the work is the result of my own experience, and I dedicate it to all of rr y 
 own sex who delight in flowers, and yet cannot allow themselves U enter 
 ii»to great expense in their cultivation. 
 
 LOUISA JOHNSON. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER 1, 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Pleasures of Gardening — How conducive to health — Early taste for 
 Gardening in England — Pleasure-gardens at rheobakls— Garden- 
 ing for Ladies 9 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 GENERAI REMARKS. 
 
 Situation for a Flower-garden — On improving the Soil — Aspect and 
 choice of Flowers— Monthly Roses— Rustic Stages — Garden Tools 
 and Working Dress — India-rubber Shoes indispensable 1 Jl 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 LAYING OUT. 
 
 Arrangement of Plants — Root-houses — Annuals — Biennials— Perennials 
 — Planting out Beds — Amelioration of Soils — Monthly Lists of 
 Flowers — Destructive habits of Hares and Rabbits — Snails, Ear- 
 wigs, Mildew and Blight — Neatness and order indispensable in a 
 well-kept Garden — Spring Plants — List of Perennials 18 
 
 > 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 BULBS AND PERENNIALS. 
 
 Transplanting Bulbs — Advantage of Salt Manures — Best arrangement 
 for choice Bulbs — Select Lists — Fibrous-rooted Flowers — Biennials 
 — Their Propagation — Protection necessary 36 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 Sowing and gathering Seed — Training and trimming Plants — List of 
 Annuals 5$ 
 
Vlii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 ROSES AND JASMINES. 
 
 Poetry of Flowers- -Varieties of Roses — Pyramids — Climbing Varieties 
 Insects injurious to the Rose — List of Roses— Luxuriant appearance 
 of the Jasmine — Devices for displaying its beauty 63 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. 
 
 On Planting — Distance between each — Various modes of Propagating — 
 
 List of best Garden Sorts — Pruning 69 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ON HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 
 
 Plants proper for Window Culture — Treatment of House Plants — Mode 
 of Supply — Bulbs in Glasses — Nosegays and cut Flowers — Diseases 
 of Plants 76 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 
 
 Form of Apparatus— Preparing the Soil — Draining— Principles cC the 
 Invention — Situation of Plants 91 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 MONTHLY NOTICES. 
 
 Recapitulation of Work to be done in each Month 109 
 
CADI£> FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 /^\T has been well remarked that a garden affords the purest of 
 /^S) human pleasures. The study of Nature is interesting in all 
 ^*^y her manifold combinations : in her wildest attitudes, and in 
 her artful graces. The mind is amused, charmed, and astonished 
 in turn, with contemplating her inexhaustible display; and we wor- 
 ship the God who created such pure and simple blessings for his 
 creatures. These blessings are open to all degrees and conditions 
 of men. Nature is not a boon bestowed upon the high-born, or 
 purchased by the wealthy at a kingly price. The poor, the blind, 
 the halt, and the diseased, enjoy her beauty, and derive benent 
 from her study. Every cottager enjoys the little garden which 
 furnishes his table with comforts, and his mind with grateful fefel- 
 ings, if that mind is susceptible of religious impressions. He 
 contemplates the gracious Providence which has bestowed such 
 means of enjoyment upon him, as the Father whose all-seeing 
 eye provides for the lowliest of his children ; and who has placed 
 the " purest of human pleasures " within the reach of all whe are 
 not too blind to behold his mercy. With this olessed view before 
 his mental sight, the cottager cultivates his little homestead. The 
 flowers and fruits of the earth bud, bloom, and decay in their 
 season ; bui Nature again performs her deputed mission, and 
 1* 
 
10 
 
 spring succeeds the dreary winter with renewed beauty and two- 
 fold increase. Health accompanies simple and natural pleasures. 
 The culture of the ground affords a vast and interminable field of 
 observation, in which the mind ranges with singular pleasure, 
 though the body travels not. It surrounds home witn an un- 
 ceasing interest ; domestic scenes become endeared to the eye 
 and mind ; worldly cares recede ; and we may truly say — 
 
 " For us kind Nature wakes her genial power, 
 Suckles each herb, and spreads out every flower! 
 Annual for us, the grape, the rose, renew 
 The juice nectarious. and the balmy dew: 
 For us, the mine a thousand treasures brings ; 
 For us, health gushes from a thousand springs.' 7 
 
 Eth. ep. i. ver. 129. 
 
 The taste for gardening in England began to display itself in 
 the reign of Edward III., in whose time the first work on the 
 subject was composed by Walter de Henly. Flower-gardening 
 followed slowly in its train. The learned Linacre, who died in 
 1524, introduced the damask rose from Italy into England. King 
 James I. of Scotland, when a prisoner in Windsor Castle, thus 
 describes its " most faire " garden : — 
 
 " Now was there maide fast by the towris wall, 
 A garden faire, and in the corneris set 
 
 An herbere green, with wandis long and small 
 Railit about, and so with treeis set 
 Was all the place, and hawthorn hedges knet, 
 That lyfe was now, walking, there forbye, • ■ 
 
 That might within scarce any wight espie, 
 
 So thick the bowis and the leves grene 
 
 Bercandit all, the alleyes all that there were; 
 
 And myddis every herbere might be sene 
 The scharpe grene swete junipere 
 Growing so fair, with branches h<*re and there, 
 That, as it seymt to a lyfe without, 
 The bowis spred the herbere all about." 
 
 The Quair. 
 
 Henry VIII. ordered the formation of his garden at Nonsuch 
 about the year 1509, and Leland says it was a " Nonpareil." 
 
INTRODUCTION". 11 
 
 Hentyner assures us of its perfect beauty, describing one ol its 
 marble basins as being set round with " lilac trees, which trees 
 bear no fruit, but only a pleasant smell." 
 
 The pleasure-gardens at Theobalds, the seat of Lord Burleigh, 
 were unique, ace )rding to the report of Lyson. In it were nine 
 knots exquisitely made, one of which was set forth in likeness of 
 the king's arms. " One might walk two myle in the walks before 
 \e came to an end." 
 
 Queen Elizabeth was extremely fond of flowers, and her taste 
 ever influenced that of her court. Gilliflowers, carnations, tulips, 
 Provence and musk roses, were brought to England in her reign. 
 "William III. loved a pleasaunce or pleasure-garden; but he 
 introduced the Dutch fashion of laying them out, which is still 
 horrible in our eyes. His Queen superintended in person all her 
 arrangements in the flower-garden, — an amusement particularly 
 delightful to her. In those days, "knottes and mazes" were no 
 longer the pride of a parterre, with a due allowance of " pleasant 
 and fair fishponds." 
 
 Queen Anne remodeled the gardens at Kensington, and did 
 away with the Dutch inventions. Hampton Court was also laid 
 out in a more perfect state in her reign, under the direction of 
 Wise. 
 
 Since that period, flower-gardening has progressed rapidly ; 
 and the amusement of floriculture has become the dominant pas- 
 sion of the ladies of Great Britain. It is a passion most blessed 
 in its effects, considered as an amusement or a benefit. Nothing 
 humanizes and adorns .the female mind more surely than a taste 
 for ornamental gardening. It compels the reason to act, and the 
 judgment to observe ; it is favorable to meditation of the most 
 serious kind ; it exercises the fancy in harmless and elegant occu- 
 pation, and braces the system by its healthful tendency. A 
 flower-garden, to the young and single of my sex, acts upon the 
 
12 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 heart and affections as a nursery acts upon the matronly feelings. 
 It attaches them to their home ; it throws a powerful charm over 
 the spot dedicated to such deeply-interesting employment ; and 
 it lures them from dwelling too deeply upon the unavoidable dis- 
 appointments and trials of life, which sooner or later disturb and 
 disquiet the heart. 
 
 An amusement which kings and princes have stamped with 
 dignity, and which has afforded them recreation under the toils 
 of government, must become for ever venerated, and will be 
 sought for by every elegant as well as by every scientific mind. 
 Floriculture ranges itself under the heacl of female accomplish- 
 ments in these our days ; and we turn with pity from the spirit 
 which will not find in her " garden of roses " the simplest and 
 purest of pleasures. 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 ^£\N the laying out of a garden, the soil and situation must be 
 considered as much as the nature of the ground will admit. 
 Let no lady, however, despair of being able to raise fine flow- 
 ers upon any soil, providing the sun is not too much excluded, for 
 the rays of the sun are the vital principle of existence to all vege- 
 tation. The too powerful rays can be warded off by the arts of in- 
 vention, but we have yet no substitute for that glorious orb. Unless 
 its warm and forcing influence is allowed to extend over the surface 
 of the garden, all flowers wither, languish, and die. Sun and air 
 are the lungs and heart of flowers. A lady will be rewarded for 
 bar trouble in making her parterre in the country; but in large 
 towns, under the influence of coal smoke, shade, and gloom, her 
 lot will be constant disappointment. She can only hope to keep 
 a few consumptive geraniums languishing through the summer 
 months, to die in October, and show the desolating view of rows 
 of pots containing blackened and dusty stems. 
 
 Many soils which are harsh or arid, are susceptible of improve- 
 ment by a little pains. Thus, a stiff clay, by digging well and 
 leaving it to become pulverized by the action of the frost, and 
 then mixing plenty of ashes with it, becomes a fine mould, which 
 I have ever found most excellent for all flowers of the hardier 
 kind. The black soil is the richest in itself, and requires no assist- 
 ance beyond changing it about a foot in depth every three years, 
 us a flowrr garden requires renewing, if a lady expects a succes- 
 
14 
 
 sion of handsome flowers. The ground should be well dug the 
 latter end of September or October, or even in November, and if 
 the soil is not sufficiently fine, let it be dug over a second or third 
 time, and neatly raked with a very fine-toothed rake. 
 
 Stony ground requires riddling well, and great care must be 
 taken to keep it neat by picking up the little stones which con- 
 stantly force themselves to the surface after rains. Nothing is so 
 unbecoming as weeds and stones in parterres, where the eye seeks 
 flowers and neatness. 
 
 Almost every plant loves sand ; and if that can be procured, it 
 enriches and nourishes the soil, especially for bulbs, pinks, carna- 
 tions, auriculas, hyacinths, &c. Let it be mixed in the proportion 
 of a third part to the whole. 
 
 If the dead leaves are swept into a mound every autumn, and 
 the soap suds, brine, &c, of the house be thrown upon it, the 
 mass will quickly decompose, and become available the following 
 year. It makes an admirable compost for auriculas, &c, mixed 
 with garden or other mould. 
 
 If the ground be a gravelly soil, the flower-garden should not 
 slope, for stony ground requires all the moisture you can give it, 
 while the sloping situation would increase the heat and dryness. 
 A moist earth, on the contrary, would be improved by being 
 sloped towards the east or west. 
 
 The south is not so proper for flowers, as a glaring sun withers 
 the tender flowers ; but the north must be carefully avoided, and 
 shut out by a laurel heclge, a wall, or any rural fence garnibhed 
 with hardy creepers, or monthly roses, which make a gay and 
 agreeable defense. Monthly roses are invaluable as auxiliaries of 
 all kinds. They will grow in any soil, and bloom through the 
 winter months, always giving a delicate fragrance, and smiling 
 even in the snow. Monthly roses will ever be the florist's de 
 light: they are the hardiest, most delicate-looking, and greenest- 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 15 
 
 leaved of garden productions ; they give no t:, uble, And speedily 
 form a beautiful screen against any offensive object. No flower 
 garden sin mid exist without abundance of monthly roses. 
 
 It has often been a disputed point whether flower gardens 
 should be intersected with gravel walks or with grass plots. 
 This must be left entirely to the taste and means of the party 
 forming a garden. Lawn is as wet and melancholy in the winter 
 months, as it is beautiful and desirable in summer ; and it requires 
 great care and attention in mowing and rolling, and trimming 
 round the border. Gravel walks have this advantage : the first 
 trouble is the last. They will only require an old woman's or a 
 child's assistance in keeping them free from weeds ; and a lady 
 has not the same fears of taking cold, or getting wet in her feet, 
 during the rains of autumn and spring. 
 
 Many females are unequal to the fatigue of bending down to 
 flowers, and particularly object to the stooping posture. In this 
 case, ingenuity alone is required to raise the flowers to a conve- 
 nient height ; and, by so doing, to increase the beauty and pic- 
 turesque appearance of the garden. Old barrels cut in half, tubs, 
 pails, &c, neatly painted outside, or adorned with rural orna- 
 ments, and raised upon feet neatly carved, or mounds of earth, 
 stand in lieu of richer materials, such as vases, parapet walls, and 
 other expensive devices, which ornament the gardens of the 
 wealthy. I have seen these humble materials shaped into forms 
 as pleading to the eye, and even more consonant to our damp 
 climate, than marble vases. They never look green from time, 
 and are renewed at a very trifling expense. A few pounds of 
 nails, and the unbarked thinnings from fir plantations, are the 
 sole requisites towards forming any device which a tasteful fancy 
 can dictate ; and a little green paint adds beauty and durability 
 when the bark falls from the wood it protects. I have seen fir 
 balls nailed on to these fonrs in tasteful patterns; and creeper 
 
16 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 being allowed to fall gracefully over the brims, give a remark- 
 ably pleasing and varied appearance to the' parterre. 
 
 Where mould is not easily to be procured — as, for instance, in 
 towns — the tubs or receptacles may be half filled with any kind 
 )f rubble, only space must be left to* allow of two feet of fine 
 nould at the top, which is quite sufficient for bulbous roots, 
 •reep # ers, &c. These receptacles have one powerful advantage 
 ever ground plots ; they can be moved under sheds, or into out- 
 houses, during the heavy rains or frosts of winter ; and thereby 
 enable a lady to preserve the more delicate flowers, which would 
 deteriorate by constant exposure to inclement weather. 
 
 A lady requires peculiar tools for her light work. She should 
 possess a light spade ; two rakes, one with very fine teeth, and 
 the other a size larger, for cleaning the walks when they are 
 raked, and for raking the larger stones from the garden borders. 
 A light garden fork is very necessary to take up bulbous or other 
 roots with, as the spade would wound and injure them, whereas 
 they pass safely through the interstices of the fork or prong. A 
 watering-pot is indispensable, and a hoe. Two trowels are like- 
 wise necessary ; one should be a tolerable size, to transplant pe- 
 rennial and biennial flower roots ; the other should be pointed 
 and small, to transplant the more delicate roots of anemones, 
 bulbs, &c. 
 
 The pruning-knife must be always sharp, and, in shape, ft 
 should bend a little inwards, to facilitate cutting away straggling 
 or dead shoots, branches, &c. The " avroncator," lately so much 
 in request, is an admirable instrument ; but it is expensive, and 
 of most importance in shrubberies, where heavy branches are to 
 be cut away. The Sieur Louis d'Auxerre, who wrote a work 
 upon gardening in 1706, has a sketch of the avroncator of the 
 present day, which he designates as caterpillar shears. 
 
 A light pair of shears, kept always in good order, is necessarv 
 
GENERAL REMARRfe. 17 
 
 to keep privet or laurel hedges properly clipped ; and a stout 
 deep basket must be deposited in the tool-shed, to contain the 
 weeds and clippings. These are the only tools absolutely essen- 
 tial to a lady's garden. I have seen a great variety decorating 
 the wall of an amateur tool -house, but they must have been in- 
 tended for show, not for use. A real artiste, in whatever pro- 
 fession she may engage, will only encumber herself with essen- 
 tials. All else is superfluous. 
 
 I have reserved two especially necessary recommendations to the 
 last, being comforts independent of the tool-house. Every lady 
 should be furnished with a gardening apron, composed of stout 
 Holland, with ample pockets to contain her pruning- knife, a small 
 stout hammer, a ball of string, and a few nails and snippings of 
 cloth. Have nothing to do with scissors ; they are excellent in 
 the work-room, but dangerous in a flower garden, as they wrench 
 and wound the stems of flowers. The knife cuts slanting, 
 which is the proper way of taking eff slips ; and the knife is 
 sufficient for all the purposes of a flower garden, even for cutting 
 string. 
 
 The second article which I pronounce to be indispensable is a 
 pair of India rubber shoes, or the wooden high -heeled shoes 
 called " sabots " by the French. In these protections, a lady 
 may indulge her passion for flowers at all seasons, without risk 
 of rheumatism or chills, providing it does not actually rain or 
 snow : and the cheering influence of the fresh air, combined with 
 a favorite amusement, must ever operate beneficially on the !»ind 
 and body in every season of the year. 
 
18 LADIES 7 FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 ON LAYING OUT. 
 
 ^g^HERE are many modes of adorning a small piece of ground, 
 (fj£$ so as to contain gay flowers and plants, and appear double its 
 ^— S real size. By covering every wall or palisade with monthly 
 roses and creepers of every kind, no space is lost, and unsightly ob- 
 jects even contribute to the general effect of a "Plaisaunce." The 
 larger flowers, such as hollyhocks, sunflowers, &c, look to the 
 best advantage as a back ground, either planted in clumps, or 
 arranged singly. Scarlet lychnis, campanula, or any second- 
 sized flowers, may range themselves below, and so in graduated 
 order, till the eye reposes upon a foreground of pansies, auriculas, 
 polyanthuses, and innumerable humbler beauties. Thus all are 
 seen in their order, and present a mass of superb coloring to the 
 observer, none interfering with the other. The hollyhock does 
 not shroud the lowly pansy from displaying its bright tints of yel- 
 low and purple ; neither can the sturdy and gaudy sunflower hide 
 the modest double violet or smartly clad anemone from observa- 
 tion. Each flower is by this mode of planting distinctly seen, 
 and each contributes its beauty and its scent, by receiving the 
 beams of the sun in equal proportions. 
 
 If the trunk of a tree stands tolerably free from deep over- 
 shadowing branches, twine the creeping rose, the late honey- 
 suckle, or the everlasting pea round its stem, that every inch of 
 ground may become available. The tall naked stem of the 
 young ash looks well festooned with roses and honevsuckles, 
 
ON LATIN & OUT. 19 
 
 Wherever creeping flowering plants can live, let them adcrn every 
 nook and corner, stem, wall, and post ; they are elegant in ap- 
 pearance, and many of them, particularly clematis, are delicious 
 in fragrant scent. 
 
 If flowers are planted in round or square plots, the same rult 
 applies in arranging them. The tallest must be placed in th* 
 center, but I recommend a lady to banish sunflowers and holly- 
 hocks from her plots, and consign them to broad borders against 
 a wall, or in clumps of three and three, as a screen against the 
 north, or against any unsightly object. Their large roots draw 
 so much nourishment from the ground, that the lesser plants suf- 
 fer, and the soil becomes quickly exhausted. Like gluttons, they 
 should feed alone, or their companions will languish in starvation,/ 
 and become impoverished. The wren cannot feed with the vul- 
 ture. 
 
 The south end or corner of a moderate flower garden should 
 be fixed upon for the erection of a root house, which is not an 
 expensive undertaking, and which forms a picturesque as well as 
 a most useful appendage to a lady's parterre. Thinnings of 
 plantations, which are everywhere procured at a very moderate 
 charge, rudely shaped and nailed into any fancied form, may 
 supply all that is needful to the little inclosure ; and a thatch of 
 straw, rushes, or heather, will "prove a sure defense to the roof 
 and back. There, a lady may display her taste by the beauty of 
 the flowers which she may train through the rural frame-work. 
 There, the moss-rose, the jessamine, the honeysuckle, the convol- 
 vulus, and many other bright and beautiful flowers, may escape 
 and cluster around her, as she receives rest and shelter within 
 their graceful lattice-work. There, also, may be deposited the 
 implements of her vocation ; and during the severe weather, its 
 warm precincts will protect the finer kinds of carnations, puiks. 
 
2b ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 auricula, &c, which do not bear the heavy rains, or frosts of 
 lengthened duration, without injuring the plant. 
 
 Flowers are divided into three classes : — annuals, biennials, 
 and perennials. 
 
 Annuals are those flowers which are raised from seeds alone, in 
 the spring, and which die in the autumn. They are again divi- 
 ded into three classes : — the tender and more curious kinds ; the 
 less tender or hardier kinds ; and the hardiest and common kinds. 
 
 Biennials are those flowers which are produced by seed, bloom 
 the second year, and remain two years in perfection, after which 
 they gradually dwindle and die away. 
 
 Some sorts, however, of the biennials, afford a continuation of 
 plants by offsets, slips, and cuttings of the tops, and by layers 
 and pipings, so that, though the parent flower dies, the species 
 are perpetuated, particularly to continue curious double-flowered 
 kinds, as for instance, double rockets, by root offsets, and cuttings 
 of the young flower-stalks ; double wallflowers by slips of the 
 small top shoots ; double sweet-williams by layers and pipings ; 
 and carnations by layers. 
 
 Perennials are those flowers which continue many years, and 
 are propagated by root offsets, suckers, parting roots, &c, as 
 will be more fully particularised under the head of Perennials. 
 
 It has been a debated point among florists whether plots or 
 baskets Should be devoted each to a particular variety of flower, 
 or receive flowers of different kinds, flowering at separate seasons. 
 Thus, many ladies set apart one plot of ground for anemones only 
 — another plot receives only pansies, and so on. There is much 
 to be said on both sides the question. 
 
 If a plot of ground is devoted to one variety of flower only, 
 you can give it the appropriate mould, and amuse your eye with 
 its expanse of bright coloring. Nothing is more beautiful than 
 a bed of jvansies, or a bed of the bright and glowing scarlet ver- 
 
ON LAYING OUT. 21 
 
 bina ; nothing can exceed the gay and flaunty lints of a btd of 
 tulips, or the rich hues of the lilac and the white petunia. A 
 large space of garden allows its possessor to revel in separate 
 beds of flowers, whose beauty is increased twofold by masses ; 
 and from that very space, the eye does not so easily discover the 
 melancholy appearance of one or more plots exhibiting nothing 
 but dark mould, and withered stems, arising from the earlier 
 sorts being out of bloom. 
 
 But in less spacious gardens, this gloomy and mournful vacuum 
 must be avoided. Every border and plot of ground should ex- 
 hibit a gay succession of flowers in bloom ; and that object can 
 only be effected by a pretty equal distribution of flowers of early 
 and late growth. As the May flowers droop, the June produc- 
 tions supply their place ; and these, again, are followed in succes- 
 sion, till the Golden rod and Michaelmas day daisy announce the 
 decadence of the parterre for the year. 
 
 Yet every flower may be supplied with its favorite soil with a 
 little patience and observation. A light soil suits all descriptions 
 very well ; and I never yet found disappointment in any descrip- 
 tion of earth which was thoroughly well dug, and dressed yearly 
 from the mound of accumulated leaves and soap-suds, alluded to 
 in the first chapter. I particularly recommend a portion of sand 
 mixed with the heap. All bulbs, carnations, pinks, auriculas, 
 ranunculuses, <fcc, love a mixture of sand. I know no flowers of 
 the hardy class which reject it. Mix sand well into your borders 
 and plots, and you will not fail to have handsome flowers. 
 
 I subjoin a list of common flowers appertaining to each month, 
 in order to fill the borders with one or more roots of each 
 variety. I do not include the annuals. 
 
LADIES FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 Single Anemones 
 Winter Cyclamens 
 Michaelmas Daisy 
 Hepaticas 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 In this month the following flowers are in blow : — 
 Primroses 
 Winter Hyacinth 
 Narcissus of the East 
 
 Christmas Rose 
 
 Single Anemones 
 Forward Anemones 
 Persian Iris 
 Spring Crocus 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 Single Yellow Gilliflower 
 Single Liverwort 
 Winter Aconite 
 Hepaticas 
 
 Bulbous Iris 
 Anemones of all sorts 
 Spring Cyclamens 
 Liverwort of all .sorts 
 Daffodils 
 Crowfoots 
 Spring Crocus 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Hyacinths of all sorts 
 
 Jonquils 
 
 Yellow Gilliflower 
 
 Narcissus of several kinds 
 
 Forward Bears'-ears 
 
 Forward Tulips 
 
 Single Primroses of •divers cc or* 
 
 Daisies 
 
 Yellow Gillifiowers 
 Narcissus of all sorts 
 Forward Bears'-ear 
 Spring Cyclamens 
 Crocus, otherwise called 
 
 flowers 
 Anemones of all sorts 
 Iris 
 
 Pansies 
 Daffodils 
 
 Saffron- 
 
 Double Liverworts 
 
 Primroses 
 
 Honeysuckles 
 
 Tulips 
 
 Hyacinths 
 
 Single Jonquils 
 
 Crown-Imperial 
 
 Yellow Gillifiowers, 
 
 single 
 Pasque-Flowers 
 March Violets 
 
 double *nd 
 
 Anemones 
 
 Gilliflowers of all sorts 
 
 Yellow Gilliflowers 
 
 Columbines 
 
 Asphodils 
 
 Orange, or flame-colored Lilies 
 
 Double Jacea, a sort of Lychnis 
 
 Cyanuses of all sorts 
 
 Hyacinths 
 
 Day Lilies 
 
 Bastard Dittany 
 
 Daisies 
 
 Lily of the v alley 
 
 Mountain Pinks 
 
 Pansies 
 
 Peonies of all sorts 
 
 Ranunculuses of all sorts 
 
 Some Irises : as those which we 
 
 call the Bulbous Iris, and the 
 
 Chamae-Iris 
 Italian Spiderwort, a sort of As- 
 
 phodil 
 Poet's Pinks 
 Backward Tulips 
 Julians, otherwise Called English 
 
 Gilliflowers 
 
ON LAYING OUT. 
 
 28 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Snap-dragons of ail sorts 
 
 Wild Tansies 
 
 Pinks, otherwise called Lychnises 
 
 Irises 
 
 Roses 
 
 Tuberoses 
 
 Pansies 
 
 Larkspur 
 
 Great Daisies 
 
 Climbers 
 
 Cyanuses of all sorts 
 
 Foxgloves of all sorts 
 
 Mountain Lilies 
 
 Gilliflowers of all sorte 
 
 Monk's-hoods 
 
 Pinks of all sorts 
 
 Candy-tufts 
 
 Poppies 
 
 JULY. 
 
 Tessamine 
 
 Spanish Brown 
 
 Basils 
 
 Bell-flowers 
 
 Indian Jacea 
 
 Great Daisies 
 
 Monk's- hoods 
 
 Pinks 
 
 Scabiuses 
 
 Nigellas 
 
 Cyclamens 
 
 Lobel's Catch-flies 
 
 Lilies of all softs 
 
 Apples of Love 
 
 Comfrey 
 
 Poppies 
 
 Snap-dragons 
 
 Double Marigolds 
 
 Amaranthuses 
 
 Hellebore 
 
 Ox-eyes 
 
 Pinks of the Poets 
 
 Bee- flowers 
 
 Sea-hollies 
 
 Foxgloves 
 
 Wild Poppies 
 
 Everlastings 
 
 Roses 
 
 Dittanies 
 
 Bindweeds 
 
 Lilies of St. Bruno 
 
 Tricolors 
 
 Squills 
 
 Motherworts 
 
 Climbers 
 
 Oculus Christi 
 
 Camomile 
 
 Sunflowers 
 
 Belvederes 
 
 Gilliflowers of all sortf 
 
 Thorn-apple 
 
 Valerian 
 
 Oculus Christi, otherwise called 
 
 Starwort 
 Belvederes 
 Climbers of all sorts 
 Apples of Love 
 Marvels of Peru 
 Pansies 
 Ranunculuses 
 Double Marigolds 
 Candy-tufts 
 Autumn Cyclamens 
 Jessamines 
 
 Sunflowers, vivacious and annual 
 Indian Narcissus 
 
 Foxgloves 
 
 Cyclamens 
 
 Passion-flowers 
 
 Everlastings 
 
 Tuberoses 
 
 Monk's-hood 
 
 Indian Pinks of all kinds 
 
 Bindweed 
 
 Passvelours 
 
 Great Daisies 
 
 White Bell-flower 
 
 Autumnal Meadow SafTrou 
 
 Gilliflowers 
 
24 
 
 LADEES' FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Tricolors 
 
 Love-apples 
 
 Marvel of Peru 
 
 Monk's-hood 
 
 Narcissus of Portugal 
 
 Snap-dragons 
 
 Oculus Christi 
 
 Basils 
 
 Belvederes 
 
 Great Daisies 
 
 Double Marigolds 
 
 Monthly Roses 
 
 Tuberoses 
 
 Amaryllis 
 
 Autumnal NarcissiM 
 
 White Bell-flowers 
 
 Indian Pinks 
 
 Indian Roses 
 
 Amaranthus 
 
 Pansies 
 
 Passion-flower 
 
 Autumnal Crocus 
 
 Thorn-apple 
 
 Carnations 
 
 Ranunculuses planted in May 
 
 Colchicums 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Tricolors 
 Oculus Christi 
 Snap-dragons 
 Colchicums 
 Autumn Crocus 
 Autumnal Cyclamens 
 Monk's-hood 
 Indian Pinks 
 
 Pansies that were sown in Augufl 
 
 Passion-flower 
 
 Passvelours 
 
 Double Marigolds 
 
 Some Pinks 
 
 Amaryllis 
 
 Autumnal Narcissus 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Snap-dragons 
 
 Double and Single Gilliflowers 
 
 Great Daisies 
 
 Pansies sown in August 
 
 Monthly Roses 
 
 Double Violets 
 Single Anemones of all sorts 
 Winter Cyclamens 
 Forward Hellebore 
 Golden Rod 
 
 Rabbits are an intolerable nuisance in a flower garden, and m 
 some country places they abound most destructively. A light 
 wire fence about two feet high, closely lattice-worked, or a net 
 of the same height, carried round the garden, is a sure defense 
 from these marauders. But where these conveniences are unat- 
 tainable, there are other modes which answer the purpose, but 
 they require a little trouble and patience. 
 
 It is the well-known nature of Rabbits and Hares to dislike 
 climbing or entangling their feet ; and very simple inventions 
 deter them from attempting to gnaw the roots and hearts of 
 
ON LAYING OUT. 25 
 
 flowers. They will not walk upon straw or ashes strewed thickly 
 round any plant : they equally dislike a fence of sticks placed 
 round a plot, with bits of white paper or card fastened to each 
 stick ; or a string carried round the sticks a foot or two high. 
 If they cannot creep under a slight fence, they, never attempt to 
 leap over it. If a stick is run into the ground close to a plant, 
 and other sticks are slanted from the ground towards the center, 
 the plant will remain untouched, be the frost of ever so long 
 duration. 
 
 Snails are disagreeable intruders, but the following method is 
 an exterminating war of short duration : — 
 
 Throw cabbage leaves upon your borders over night ; in the 
 morning, early, you will find them covered underneath with 
 snails, which have taken refuge there. Thus they are easily 
 taken and destroyed. 
 
 Earwigs are taken in great numbers by hanging gallipots, 
 tubes, or ^ny such receptacle, upon low sticks in the borders over 
 night. In these they shelter themselves, and are consequently 
 victimized in the morning. The gallipots, broken bottles, &c, 
 should be placed upon the stick like a man's hat, that the vermin 
 may ascend into .them. 
 
 Ants are very great enemies to flowers ; but I know no method 
 of attacking them, except in their own strongholds, which I have 
 always done with cruel intrepidity and success. My only plan 
 was to lay open the little ant-hill, and pour boiling water upon 
 the busy insects, which destroyed at once the commonwealth, 
 and the eggs deposited within the mound. In some places ants 
 are extremely large and abundant, and they quickly destroy the 
 beauty of a flower by attacking its root and heart.* 
 
 * The Emperor Pagonatus, who wrote a treatise upon agriculture, assures 
 us, that to clear a garden of ants, we should burn empty snail shells with 
 storax wood, and throw the ashes upon the Ant-hills, which obliges them to 
 remove. I never tried this method. 
 2 
 
26 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 Mildew and blight infest roses and honey-suckles. Soap-suds 
 thrown over rose bushes ; heavy waterings with tobacco- water, 
 or the water in which potatoes have been boiled, is successful in 
 a degree, but the best way is a very troublesome one to perse- 
 vere in. Pinch every leaf well which curls up, by which you 
 may know a small maggot is deposited therein. By so doing 
 you destroy the germ of a thousand little monsters. 
 
 Mildew and blight come from the east ; therefore honeysuckles 
 should be sheltered from that aspect ; for, as they rise and spread 
 widely, they are not so manageable as a rose-bush. A mass ot 
 luxuriant honeysuckles is beautiful to the eye and delicious in 
 fragrance : but covered with mildew, it is a blackened and miser- 
 able object. Mildew, fortunately, does not make its appearance 
 every spring ; but once in four or five years it comes as a plague, 
 to desolate the garden. A great deal may be raked away it 
 taken off as soon as it spreads its cobwebs over these lovely 
 flowers ; but it should be done without delay. 
 
 I cannot lay too great stress upon the neatness in which a 
 lady's garden should be kept. If it is not beautifully neat, it is 
 nothing. For this reason, keep every plant distinct in the flower- 
 beds ; let every tall flower be well staked, that the wind may not 
 blow it prostrate ; rake away dead leaves from the beds, and 
 trim every flower-root from discolored leaves, weeds, &c. ; re- 
 move all weeds and stones the moment they appear, and cleai 
 away decaying stems, which are so littering and offensive to the 
 eye. There is always some employment of this kind for ever/- 
 week in the year. 
 
 Old iron rods, both large and small, are to be procured cheay 
 at the ironmongers. These old rusty rods, painted green, or lead 
 color, are excellent stakes for supporting flowers, and do not 
 wear out. The slighter rods are very firm upright supporters 
 for Carnations, Pinks, &c, while the taller and larger rods aro 
 
ON LAYING OUT. 27 
 
 the firmest and best poles for hollyhocks, sunflowers, and the 
 larger class of plants. Fix the flower stem to its stake with 
 string, or the tape of the bass matting, soaked in water to pre- 
 vent its cracking, and tie it sufficiently tight to prevent the wind 
 tearing it from its position. Tie the large stems in three places 
 for security. 
 
 The term Deciduous, applied to shrubs, signifies that they 
 shed their leaves every winter. 
 
 Herbaceous plants, signify those plants whose roots are not 
 woody, such as stocks, wallflowers, <fcc. &c. 
 
 Fibrous-rooted plants, are those whose roots shoot out small 
 fibers, such as Polyanthuses, violets, &c. 
 
 Tuberous-rooted plants, signify those roots which form and 
 grow into little tubes, such as Anemones, Ranunculuses, &c. 
 
 PERENNIALS. 
 
 Perennials are flowers of many years' duration ; and they 
 multiply themselves most abundantly by suckers, offsets, parting 
 the roots, <fec. They require little trouble beyond taking care to 
 renew the soil every year or two by a somewhat plentiful supply 
 from the compost heap ; and by separating the offsets, and parV 
 ing the roots in autumn, to strengthen the mother plant. When, 
 the flowers are past and the stems have decayed, then the opera- 
 tion may take place. Choose a showery day for transplanting 
 the roots, or give them a moderate watering to fix them in their 
 fresh places. When you transplant a flower root, dig a hole with 
 your trowel sufficiently large to give the fibers room to lie freely 
 and evenly in the ground. 
 
 I have, throughout my little work, laid great stress upon pos- 
 sessing a heap of compost, ready to apply to roots and shrubs 
 every spring and autumn. Wherever the soil is good the flowers 
 
28 LADIES FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 will bloom handsomely; and no lady will be disappointed (( that 
 pleasure, if a compost heap forms one essential, in a hidden cor- 
 ner of the flower garden. If you raise your perennials from 
 seed, sow it in the last week in March in a bed of light earth, in 
 the open ground. Let the bed be in a genial, warm situation, 
 and divide it into small compartments ; a compartment for each 
 sort of seed. 
 
 Sow the seed thin, and rake or break the earth over them finely. 
 Let the larger seed be sown half an inch deep, and the smaller 
 seed a quarter of an inch. Water the beds in dry weather often 
 with a watering pot, not a jug. The rose of the watering pot 
 distributes the water equally among the seedlings ; whereas, 
 water dashed upon them from a jug falls in masses, and forms 
 holes in the light earth, besides prostrating the delicate seedling. 
 
 About the end of May, the seedlings will be fit to remove into 
 another nursery bed, to gain strength till October ; or be planted 
 at once where they are to remain. Put the plants six inches 
 apart, and water them moderately, to settle the earth about their 
 roots. 
 
 But it is rarely required to sow seed for perennial plants,— 
 they multiply so vigorously and quickly of themselves, by offsets ; 
 and cuttings may be made of the flower stalks in May and June 
 in profusion. 
 
 The double Scarlet lychnis, and those plants which rise with 
 firm flower stems, make excellent cuttings, and grow freely when 
 planted in moist weather. Double Rockets, Lychnidea, and many 
 others, succeed well. 
 
 Carnation and pink seedlings must be taken great care of. 
 They will be ready to plant out about the middle of June, and as 
 innumerable varieties spring from sowing seed, they should be 
 planted carefully in a bed by themselves six inches asunder, and 
 they will flower the following year, when you can choose the 
 
ON LAYING OUT 2# 
 
 colors you ff-.ost approve. Carnations pro*^ .rly rank undtt the 
 head of biennials; but pinks are strictly perennial plants, and 
 much has been written upon this hardy and beautiful flower. It 
 comes originally from a temperate climate, therefore the pink 
 loves shade : the fervid sunbeams cause its flowers to languish and 
 droop. You may give them an eastern aspect. 
 
 Be careful to watch pinks when they are budding, and do not 
 allow two buds to grow side by side. Pinch off the smaller bud, 
 which would only weaken its companion. Keep the plants free 
 from decayed leaves, and gently stir the earth round them occa- 
 sionally with your small trowel. This operation refreshes them. 
 Stake them neatly, that they may not fall prostrate after rain. 
 
 If you wish to preserve any particular pink, let it grow in a 
 pot, or upon a raised platform, that it may be placed beyond the 
 reach of hares, rabbits, or poultry, and be more easily sheltered 
 from long and severe frost or rains in winter, and from the dry 
 heats in summer, either of which destroys the beauty of the 
 flower. The pots can be sunk in the ground in fine weather. Do 
 not hide your pinks among larger flowers : let them be distinctly 
 seen. If you water pinks too much, their roots become rOtten ; 
 and if you suffer them to be too dry, they become diseased. Be- 
 ware of extremes. The best rule is to keep them just moist. 
 A fine pink should not have sharp-pointed flower leaves ; they 
 should be round and even at their edges, and the colors should be 
 well defined, not running one into the other. The flower should 
 be large ; it should possess a great many leaves, and form a sort 
 of dome. Piping and slipping, is the most expeditious mode of 
 propagating plants from any selected pink. 
 
 Pansies, violets, &c, are very easily propagated by parting the 
 roots when the flowers are past. Pansies are very beautiful 
 flowers ; and cuttings of their young shoots will grow very freely 
 if kept moist and shaded for some little time. By refreshing the 
 
30 LADIES* FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 soil every } T ear, you insure large flowers. Pansies and violets 
 bloom early in the spring. 
 
 Hepaticas must be parted like violets. They appear so very 
 early in the year that no garden should exist without these gay 
 and modest flowers. The leaves appear after the flower has past 
 away. 
 
 The Polyanthus blooms among the early tribe. In planting 
 this flower, be careful to insert the roots deep in the soil, so that 
 the leaves may rest upon it, for the roots are produced high upon 
 the stem, and those roots must be enabled to shoot into the soil. 
 The polyanthus, like almost every other flower, loves a good soil, 
 with a mixture of sand. 
 
 In dividing these fibrous-rooted perennial plants, take only the 
 strong offsets, with plenty of fibers attached to them. 
 
 Polyanthuses, auriculas, double daisies, double camomile, Lon- 
 don pride, violets, hepaticas, thrift, primroses, gentia*iella, &c, 
 succeed well, taken up and divided in September, for they will 
 all have done flowering by that time. Indeed, all perennial 
 fibrous-rooted plants may be taken up in October to have their 
 roots parted, and the soil refreshed round them. 
 
 Peonies, and all knob-rooted plants, should be taken up in 
 October to part their roots and transplant them to their iatended 
 positions. 
 
 The saxifrage has very small roots, which are apt to be lost in 
 borders if not very carefully looked after. Like the anemone, 
 &c, sift the earth well for them. 
 
 Dahlias require a word or two upon their culture. They love 
 sand, therefore allow them plenty of it, but do not put manure 
 to their roots, which throws them into luxuriant leaf and clem, 
 to the deterioration of the flower. Peat mould is good, if you 
 can obtain it, to mix with the sand, as it assists the flower if* de- 
 veloping stripes and spots. Train each plant upright, upor one 
 
ON LAYING OUT. 31 
 
 stem only, and give it a strong stake to support its weight, which 
 soon succumbs under gusts of Avind. Plant them in open and 
 airy places. When the stems become black, take them up, sepa- 
 rate the roots, and plunge them into a box of ashes, barley chaff, 
 or sand, to protect them through the winter. Plant them out in 
 May. 
 
 Dahlias grow from cuttings, which require care and a hot-bed 
 to do well, but they multiply themselves very sufficiently without 
 that trouble. 
 
 It is a great perfection to see every tall plant in a flower-garden 
 well staked, and trimmed from dead straggling shoots. Let no 
 branches trail upon the border, but, as in the ease of Chrysan- 
 themums, cut away the lowest branches or shoots, that each 
 plant may stand erect and neat in its order, without intermed- 
 dling in its neighbor's concerns. There will be plenty of em- 
 ployment all through the summer in watching the growth of 
 your plants, in cutting away decayed stems, and trimming off 
 dead leaves. Let nothing remain in the flower's way after the 
 brightness of its bloom has past by : cut off the drooping flower 
 before *it runs to seed, which only tends to weaken the other 
 .flowers, and leave only the finest flower to produce seed on each 
 plant. 
 
 Perennials grow remarkably fine always in newly turned- up 
 ground, but they gradually degenerate if they are allowed to re- 
 main above two years without replacing the substance they have 
 exhausted in the soil. Add every year to that substance, by 
 liberal supplies from the compost heap. 
 
 'Be careful to multiply your supply of jasmines, honeysuckles, 
 &c, by cuttings in their due season. 
 
 I subjoin a list of the hardier sorts of fibrous rooted Perennials, 
 eligible to adorn a garden, from which my readers may stock 
 their borders. 
 
82 
 
 ladies' flowed gardener. 
 
 LIST OF HARDY PERENNIALS. 
 
 Aster, or Starwort 
 
 Large blue Alpine 
 
 Common Starwort, or Michaelmas 
 Daisy 
 
 Early Pyrenean 
 
 Blue Italian Starwort 
 
 Catesby's Starwort 
 
 Dwarf narrow-leaved Starwort 
 
 Midsummer Starwort 
 
 Autumnal white Starwort, with 
 broad leaves 
 Tripolian Starwort 
 
 Divaricated-branched 
 
 Virginian Starwort, with spiked 
 blue flowers 
 
 Early blue Starwort 
 
 Rose Starwort 
 
 Latest Starwort, large blue flowers 
 
 New England Starwort 
 
 Red-flowering 
 Apocynum, Dogsbane 
 
 Red-flowering 
 
 Orange-colored 
 
 Syrian 
 Arum, Italian large-veined leaf 
 Asdepias, Swallow-wort 
 
 White 
 
 Yellow 
 Astragalus, Milk-vetch 
 Alysson, White 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Violet 
 Borage, the Eastern 
 Bachelor's Button 
 
 Double red 
 
 Double white 
 Double Ragged Robin 
 Campanula, or Bell-flower 
 
 Double blue 
 
 Double white 
 
 Double blue, and white nettle- 
 leaved 
 Caltha, double-flowered 
 
 Marigold 
 Cassia of Maryland 
 Pinks, double pheasant's eye 
 
 Dobson 
 
 Deptford 
 
 Cob white 
 
 Red cob 
 
 White stock 
 
 Damask 
 
 Mountain 
 
 Matted 
 
 Old man's head 
 
 Painted lady 
 
 Clove pink, and many othei 
 varieties 
 Stock July-flower, the Brompton 
 
 Double scarlet Brompton 
 
 Single scarlet 
 
 Purple 
 
 White Brompton 
 
 Queen stock 
 
 Purple double 
 
 Striped double 
 
 Single of each sort 
 
 Twickenham stock 
 Lichnidea, early blue 
 
 Spotted-stalked, with purple spikes 
 of flowers 
 
 Virginia, with large umbels 
 
 Low trailing purple 
 
 Carolina, with stiif shining leaves, 
 and deeper purple flowers 
 Cyanus, broad-leaved 
 
 Narrow-leaved 
 Lychnis, or Campion 
 
 Single scarlet lychnis 
 
 Double scarlet lychnis 
 
 Catchfly, double flowers 
 Hepaticas, single white 
 
 Single blue 
 
 Single red 
 
 Double red 
 
 Double blue 
 Liner ia, toad flax 
 
 Purple 
 
 Yellow 
 Bee Larkspur 
 Fraxinelia, white 
 
 Red 
 Gentiania, great yellow 
 Gentianclla, blue 
 Globularia. blue daisy 
 Fox-glove, red 
 
 White 
 
 Iron- colored 
 
ON LAYING OUT. 
 
 33 
 
 Perennial Sun-flower 1 
 
 Double yellow, and several other 
 species. 
 Cyclamen, red 
 
 While 
 Goldy Locks 
 Chelone, white 
 
 Red 
 Lily of the Valley, common 
 
 Double-flowering 
 Solomon's Seal, single 
 
 Double 
 Filapendula, or Drop wort 
 Columbines, common blue 
 Double red 
 Double white 
 Double striped 
 Starry, double and single 
 Early-flowering Canada 
 Thalictrum, feathered columbines 
 Pulsatilla, blue Pasque flower 
 Orobus, bitter vetch 
 Saxifrage, double white 
 Thick-leaved 
 Purple 
 Veronica, upright blue 
 Dwarf blue 
 Hungarian 
 Blush 
 Golden Rod, many species 
 Valerian, red garden Valerian 
 
 White garden 
 Rudbekia, American sun-flower 
 Dwarf Virginia, with large yellow 
 
 flowers 
 Dwarf Carolina, with narrow red 
 reflexed petals and purple florets 
 Virginia, with yellow rays and red 
 
 florets 
 Tall yellow, with purple stalks 
 
 and heart-shaped leaves 
 Taller, with yellow flowers and 
 large five-lobed leaves, and those 
 on the stalks single 
 Tallest yellow, with narrower 
 leaves, which are all of five 
 lobes 
 Pulmonaria, Lungwort 
 Common 
 American 
 
 2* 
 
 Monarda, purple 
 
 Scarlet 
 Ephcmeron, Spider-wort, or flower* 
 of a day 
 
 White 
 
 Blue 
 Jacca, American knapweed 
 Primrose, double yellow 
 
 Double scarlet 
 
 White 
 Polyanthus, many varieties 
 Auriculas, many varieties 
 Violets, double blue 
 
 Double white 
 
 Double red 
 
 Russian 
 
 Banksia 
 Violet, the Major 
 London-pride, or None-so-pretty 
 Day-lily, red 
 
 Yellow 
 Fumitory, the yellow 
 
 White 
 
 Bulbous-rooted 
 
 American forked 
 Aconite, Monk's-hood, or Wolf's-baas ' 
 
 Blue Monk's-hood 
 
 Yellow 
 
 White 
 
 Wholesome Wolf's-bane 
 Winter Aconite 
 Hellebore, or Bear's-foot ' 
 
 Common black hellebore 
 
 Green-flowered 
 White Hellebore 
 Christmas Rose 
 Geranium. Crane's-bill 
 
 Bloody Crane's-bill 
 
 Blue 
 
 Roman 
 
 Bladder-cupped 
 Daisies, common double red garden 
 daisy 
 
 White 
 
 Double variegated 
 
 Cock's-comb daisies, white and rec 
 
 Hen and chicken, white and red 
 Dahlias, many varieties 
 Peony, double red 
 
 Double white 
 
84 
 
 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 Double purple 
 
 Ma_e, with large single flowers 
 
 Sweet-smelling Portugal 
 
 Double rose-colored 
 Silpatum, bastard Chrysanthemum 
 *ris, Fleur-de-lis, or flags 
 
 The German violet-colored 
 
 Variegated, cr Hungarian, purple 
 and yellow 
 
 Chakedonian iris 
 
 Greater Dalmatian iris 
 
 There are several other varieties 
 of Irises, all very hardy and very 
 beautiful plants 
 Cardinal Flowers, scarlet 
 
 Blue 
 Rocket, double white 
 Balm of Gilead, sweet-scented ; must 
 
 be sheltered in winter 
 
 Everlasting Pea 
 Eupatorium, several varieties 
 Eryngo, blue 
 
 White 
 
 Mountain, purple and violet 
 
 There are some othei varieties 
 Snap Dragon, or Calf 's-snout 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 
 Variegated 
 Moth Mullein 
 Angelica 
 
 Asphodclus, King's-spear 
 Lupins, perennial, blue-flowered 
 Ononis, Rest-har 
 
 Large yellow-flowered 
 Tradescantia, or Virginia Spider- 
 
 wort 
 
 The Saxifrage is propagated by cuttings and offsets, which the 
 roots produce abundantly. Take the offsets and plant them out 
 in August. The double white saxifrage is a beautiful flower, and 
 blooms early in the spring. The pyramidal saxifrage is a very 
 handsome decorative flower, but it must be planted in little clumps 
 to make a showy appearance. 
 
 October is the busy month for transplanting and removing the 
 offsets of all perennial and biennial plants. In this month every 
 flower of summer has passed away, and the garden is free to 
 receive all new arrangements in its future dispositions. Golden 
 rod, Michaelmas daisies, everlasting sun-flower, and other branch- 
 ing plants, will require taking up every four years, to part the 
 main root into separate plants, and replace them in the ground 
 again. Peonies, lilies of the valley, fraxinellas, monk's-hood, flag- 
 leaved irises, &c, must be increased or removed when required. 
 All this is most effectually done in October. 
 
 In the same month, finish all that is to be effected among the 
 perennial tribe. Campanulas, lychnises, polyanthuses, violets, 
 aconites, cyclamens, gentianella, yellow gentian, double daisies. 
 
ON LAYING OUT. 35 
 
 hepaticas, saxifrage, &c, must be attended to, and propagated, 
 by dividing the roots, before October closes. November is the 
 season of fogs and severe frosts : if a lady is prudent, she will 
 perform all these needful operations in October, and November 
 will have no alarms for her. 
 
 All the double-flowering plants,. such as double sweet-william, 
 double rockets, double scarlet lychnis, &c, should be placed in 
 sheltered situations in October, to weather out the storms of 
 winter. Double flowers are very handsome, and deserve a little 
 care. 
 
 The most charming little perennial flower which can adorn a 
 lady's garden is the scarlet verbena, but it is very difficult to pre- 
 serve through the winter. Its beauty, however, repays the care 
 which may be bestowed upon it. This tender plant — the only 
 really tender root which I admit into my work — is not only de- 
 sirable from its fine, full scarlet blossoms, but it blooms from 
 April to November. The scarlet verbena loves a rich, light, dry 
 border or bed, in a sunny situation ; they delight also in rock- 
 work, where they have been known to exist through the winter. 
 Plant the roots about six inches apart in the middle of April, and 
 keep pegging down the shoots as they throw themselves along 
 the bed. A profusion of flowers and plants are produced by this 
 means. A bed or border sloping to the south is the best situa- 
 tion fcr the scarlet verbena. 
 
36 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS — PERENNIALS. 
 
 /^S£\ SHALL give the bulbous and tuberous-rooted flowers a chap- 
 s^4jL ter to themselves. They are the earliest treasures of the 
 XV flower-garden, and deserve especial notice. There was a pe- 
 riod when two hundred pounds was offered for a hyacinth root, and 
 even the enormous sum of six hundred pounds was given for a Sem- 
 per Augustus tulip, by the Dutch tulip fanciers. But though a few 
 florists are still particularly nice with respect to their bulbs, the 
 time is past for paying such splendid prices ; and such an inex- 
 haustible variety offer themselves to our notice now, that we are, 
 somewhat puzzled in making a choice, collection. Seed produces 
 immense numbers yearly, and an infinite variety of new colors in 
 each species. The florist is lost in admiration of the magnificent 
 blooms which meet the eye in every flower-garden which is care- 
 fully attended to. 
 
 Bulbs love a mixture of garden soil and sand, well mixed, and 
 dug about two spades deep to lighten it. Break the mould fine, 
 and rake the surface even. Plant the bulbs four inches deep, 
 and let them be six inches apart, placing the bulb with care >nto 
 the dibbled hole, and pressing the earth gently round each. All 
 bulbs should be replanted in September, and taken out of the 
 ground when they have done flowering. When the leaves and 
 stems decay, dig them neatly up, in dry weather, with your 
 garden fork ; take the offsets carefully from the main root ; spread 
 them out to dry on a mat, and put them in a cool dry plac? to 
 plant again in September. 
 
TRANSPLANTING BULBS. 37 
 
 The common bulbs, such as Snowdrops, Crocuses, &c, may be 
 left two or three years untouched ; but at the end of that period 
 take them up, to separate the offsets and small roots from the 
 mother plants. You can replant them immediately, taking care 
 m to thin the clumps, and separate each root six inches from its 
 neighbor, that they may rise healthy, and throw out fine blooms. 
 
 Narcissuses, Jonquils, and Irises, may also remain two years 
 untouched ; but if annually taken up, they will flower finer, and 
 for these reasons. 
 
 By taking up your bulbs as soon as their leaves and stems de- 
 cay, it not only allows you to separate the offsets, which weaken 
 the parent bulb, but it prevents their receiving any damage from 
 long drought, or the equally destructive moisture of heavy rains, 
 which would set them growing again before their time, and ex- 
 haust them. The two or three months in which they are laid by 
 contributes to their strength, by allowing them that period of 
 complete rest. 
 
 The autumn-flowering bulbs, such as the Colchicums, the Au- 
 tumnal Crocus, the Yellow Autumnal Narcissus, &c, should be 
 taken up in May or early in June, when they are at rest. Trans- 
 plant them now, if you wish to remove them ; part the offsets, 
 and plant them six inches apart. If you keep them out of the 
 ground, put them in a dry, shady place, till the middle of July 
 or August, when you must plant them again, to blow in the au- 
 tumn. 
 
 Be careful to take up bulbs as soon as the leaves decay. If 
 they are incautiously left in the ground beyond that period, they 
 begin to form the bud for the next year's flowers ; and the check 
 of a removal would injure them. They might produce flowers 
 in due time, but they would be weakly. 
 
 The little offsets will not flower for a year or two. They may 
 
38 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 be consigned to a nursery-bed to remain for that time, in order to 
 swell and strengthen by themselves. 
 
 If you wish to procure new varieties from seed, it must be 
 sown in August. The healthiest flower-stalk should be chosen, 
 *nd deposited in pots or boxes of fine light earth, for the con- 
 venience of removing under shelter in wet or frost. Keep the 
 pots or boxes in the shade during the heats, but, as the cold 
 weather advances, remove them to a warm sheltered spot. Litter 
 will shelter them from the frost, if you cannot command any 
 other covering. The plants will appear early the following May : 
 they must be kept very clear from weeds, and be moderately 
 watered in dry weather. These seedlings must be transplanted 
 every summer to be thinned, and placed further apart from each 
 other till they blow, when they may be removed into the flower- 
 beds. 
 
 This method is troublesome, and requires patience. Tulip 
 seedlings are seven years before they flower, and a lady may find 
 her patience severely tried in waiting for their blooms. Seven 
 years is a large portion of human life. If you can persevere, 
 however, you will be rewarded by beautiful varieties of new colors 
 and stripes. 
 
 Fine tulips should have six leaves, three on the outside and 
 three on the inside, and the former should be broader than the 
 latter. The stripes upon the tulip should also be defined and dis- 
 tinct, not mixing with the ground tints. 
 
 Hyacinth seedlings are four years before they flower ; this is 
 not so harassing a period as the Tulip requires ; but every plea- 
 sure has its counterbalance. If you will have fine flowers, you 
 must wait for them. These bulbs love a sunny situation. 
 
 The Orchis tribe prefer a moist ground and a northern aspect. 
 Columella says, that when orchis bulbs are sown in autumn, they 
 germinate and bear flowers in April. 
 
BULBOUS PLANTS. 39 
 
 The Colchicums or narcissus are hardy bulbs, and will grow in 
 any sort of ground ; only, the better the soil is, the finer they 
 will flower. 
 
 The Guernsey Lily and Belladonna will not thrive in the open 
 ground, therefore it is needless to speak of those very splendid 
 flowers. 
 
 The Lily of the Valley, though scarcely to be classed among 
 the lily tribe, is a beautiful flower, and as fragrant as it is lovely. 
 They must be multiplied by dividing the roots, which should be 
 parted with a knife, as they are very intricate : do this in Decem- 
 ber. Plant them three inches deep in the ground, and disturb 
 them as little as you can help, as they do not like to be often 
 moved. They are larger in their flowers when grown in the 
 shade, but they are sweeter in perfume in the sun's full rays. 
 Thin broad leaves are sufficient shelter to the flowers. 
 
 All bulbs love salt : be careful, therefore, to throw a portion 
 of common salt or brine upon your compost heap. My cousin, 
 Cuthbert W. Johnson, Esq., in his " Observations on the Em- 
 ployment of Salt/' quotes a passage in a letter addressed to him 
 oy Mr. Thomas Hogg, the eminent florist, upon the advantages 
 of salt in the cultivation of flowers. I will transcribe it here : — 
 
 " From the few experiments that I have tried with salt as a garden ma- 
 nure, I am fully prepared to bear testimony to its usefulness. In a treatise 
 upon flowers, published about six years since, I remarked, that the applica- 
 tion of salt, and its utility as a manure, was yet imperfectly understood. It 
 is a matter of uncertainty, w T hether it acts directly as a manure, or only as a 
 kind of spice or seasoning, thereby rendering the soil a more palatable food 
 for plants. 
 
 " The idea that first suggested itself to my mind, arose from contemplating 
 the successful culture of hyacinths in Holland. This root, though not in- 
 digenous to the country, may be said to be completely naturalized in the 
 neighborhood of Haerlem, where i: grows luxuriantly in a deep, sandy, allu- 
 vial soil . yet one great cause of its free gro vth, I considered, was owing to 
 the saline atmos- v ere ■ this induced me to mix salt in the compost; and K 
 
40 
 
 am satisfied that no hyacinths will grow well at a distance from the set 
 without it. I am also of opinion, that the numerous bulbous tribe of Amaryl- 
 lisses, especially those from the Cape of Good Hope ; Ixias, Aliums, which 
 include Onions, Garlic, Shalots, &c, Anemones, various species of the Lily 
 Antholyza, Colchicum, Crinum, Cyclamens, Narcissus, Iris, Gladiolus, Ran- 
 unculus, Scilla, and many others, should either have salt or sea-sand in the 
 mould used for them. 
 
 " I invariably use salt as an ingredient in my compost for carnations ; a 
 plant which, like wheat, requires substantial soil, and all the strength and 
 heat of the summer, to bring it to perfection ; and I believe I might say, 
 without boasting, that few excel me in blooming that flower." 
 
 Colchicums, the Autumnal Narcissus, Amaryllis, and the Au- 
 tumn Crocus, should be planted in August, to blow in September 
 and October. 
 
 Replant all the bulbous tribe by the end of October, at the 
 latest. Choose a mild, dry day to put them in the ground, and 
 let each bulb be six or nine inches distant from its companion. 
 All bulbs become weak by being placed too closely together, the 
 soil becoming soon exhausted. 
 
 Bulbs of the more choice varieties are better attended to if 
 they can be placed in beds or compartments by themselves ; for 
 they are more easily sheltered from frost and rain when in a body. 
 The eye, also, is more delighted by the beautiful variety en masse. 
 Their favorite soil, too, can be composed and preserved for them 
 more exclusively, unexhausted by the roots of larger plants around 
 them. Some of the commoner sorts can be planted out in 
 patches, to add to the gay appearance of the borders, among the 
 spring flowers. 
 
 Martagons, orange lilies, and bulbs, of tall growth, should 
 never be planted among the smaller tribe ; their large bulbs 
 would exhaust the soil, and weaken the smaller flowers. They 
 look very handsome in borders and plots, placed near, or in. theii 
 center. 
 
TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 
 
 41 
 
 LIST OF BULEOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 
 
 Amaryllis, comprising the autumnal 
 
 yellow Narcissus 
 Spring ditto 
 Crocus vermis, or spring-flowering 
 
 crocus 
 Common yellow- 
 Large yellow 
 Yellow, with black stripes 
 White 
 
 White, with blue stripes 
 Blue, with white stripes 
 Deep blue 
 Light blue 
 
 White, with purple bottom 
 Scotch, or black and white striped 
 Cream-colored 
 Autumnal flowering Crocus, of the 
 
 following varieties : — 
 True saffron crocus, with bluisl 
 
 flower, and golden stigma, which 
 
 is the saffron 
 Common autumnal crocus, with 
 
 deep blue flowers 
 With light blue flowers 
 Many-flowered 
 Snoivdrop, the small spring flowering 
 Common single 
 Double 
 Leucojum, or great summer snowdrop 
 Great summer snowdrop with an- 
 gular stalk : a foot high, and 
 
 two or three flowers in each 
 
 sheath 
 Taller great snowdrop, with many 
 
 flowers 
 Ornithogalum, or Star of Bethlehem 
 Great white pyramidal, with nar- 
 row leaves 
 White, with broadsword-shaped 
 
 leaves spreading on the ground 
 Yellow 
 Pyrenean, with whitish green 
 
 flowers 
 Star of Naples, with hanging 
 
 flowers 
 Umbellated, producing its flowers 
 
 in umbels, or spreading ounches, 
 
 at the top of the stalk 
 Low yr low umbellated 
 
 Erythronium, Jens canis, or dog'g 
 
 tooth 
 Round-leaved, wi + h red flowers 
 Same, with white flowers 
 The same, ye'low 
 Long narrow-leaved, with purple 
 
 and with white flowers 
 Grape hyacinth 
 Purple 
 Blue 
 White 
 
 Musk hyacinth 
 White 
 Ash-colored 
 
 Blue feathered hyacinth 
 Purple 
 Musky, or sweet-scented, with full 
 
 purple flowers 
 The same, with large purple and 
 
 yellow flowers 
 Great African Muscaria, with sul- 
 phur-colored flower 
 Fritillaria checkered tulip 
 
 Early purple, variegated, orcheck- 
 
 ered-ewith white 
 Black, checkered with yellow spots 
 Yellow, checkered with purple 
 Dark purple, with yellow spots, 
 
 and flowers growing in an um- 
 bel 
 Persian lily, with tall stalks, and 
 
 dark purple flowers growing in 
 
 a pyramid 
 Branching Persian lily 
 Corona Imperialist crown imperial, a 
 
 species of Fritillaria ^ 
 Common red 
 Common yellow 
 Yellow-striped 
 Sulphur-colored 
 Large-flowering 
 Double of each variety 
 Crown upon crown, ot with two 
 
 whorls of flowers 
 Triple crown upon crown, or with 
 
 three tiers of flowers one above 
 
 another 
 Gold-striped leaved 
 Silver-striped leaved 
 
42 
 
 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 Tulip, early dwarf tulip 
 
 Tall, or most common tulip 
 
 Early, yellow and red striped 
 
 White and red striped 
 
 White and purple striped 
 
 White and rose striped 
 
 Tall, or late-flowering, with white 
 bottoms, striped with brown 
 
 White bottoms, striped with violet 
 or black brown 
 
 White bottoms, striped with red 
 or vermilion 
 
 Yellow bottoms, striped with dif- 
 ferent colors, called Bizarres 
 Double Tulip, yellow and red 
 
 White and red 
 Gladiolus, corn flag, or sword lily, 
 common, with sword-shaped 
 leaves, and a reddish purple 
 flower ranged on one side of the 
 stalk 
 
 The same, with white flowers 
 
 Italian with reddish flowers ranged 
 on both sides of the stalk 
 
 The same, with white flowers 
 . Great red of Byzantium 
 
 Narrow grassy-leaved, and a flesh- 
 colored flower, with channeled, 
 long, narrow, four-angled leaves, 
 and two bell-shaped flowers on 
 the stalk 
 
 Great Indian 
 Anemone, wood anemone, with blue 
 flowers 
 
 White flowers 
 
 Red flowers 
 
 Double white 
 Garden Double Anemone, with crim- 
 son flowers 
 
 Purple 
 
 Red 
 
 Blue 
 
 White 
 
 Red and white striped 
 
 Red, white, and purple 
 
 Rose and white 
 
 Blue, striped with white 
 Ranunculus, Turkey with a single 
 stalk, and large double bloo>> 
 red flower 
 
 Yelbw-ilowered 
 
 Persian, with branching stalk, am 
 large double flowers of innumer- 
 able varieties, of which the-e are 
 
 Very double flowers 
 
 Semi, or half double 
 
 (The double are most beautiful, 
 propagated by offsets) 
 Pancratium, sea daffodil 
 
 Common white sea Narcissus, with 
 many flowers in a sheath, and 
 tongue-shaped leaves 
 
 Sclavonian, with taller stems and 
 many white flowers, and sword- 
 shaped leaves 
 
 Broad-leaved American, with large 
 white flowers, eight or ten in a 
 sheath 
 
 Mexican, with two flowers 
 
 Ceylon, with one flower 
 Moly {Allium), species of garlic pro- 
 ducing flowers 
 
 Broad-leaved yellow 
 
 Great broad-leaved, with lily 
 flowers 
 
 Broad-leaved, with white flowers 
 in large round umbels 
 
 Smaller white umbellated 
 
 Purple 
 
 Rose-colored 
 Fumaria bulbosa, or bulbous-roo*ed 
 fumitory 
 
 Greater purple 
 
 Hollow-rooted 
 
 American, with a forked flower 
 Na?-cissus, or daffodil, common double 
 yellow daffodil 
 
 Single yellow, with the middle cup 
 as long as the petals 
 
 White, with* yellow cups 
 
 Double, with several cups, one 
 within another 
 
 Common white narcissus, with 
 single flowers 
 
 Double white narcissus 
 
 Incomparable, or great nonsuch, 
 with double flowers 
 
 With single flowers 
 
 Hoop petticoat narcissus, or rush- 
 leaved daffodil, with the middle 
 cup larger than the petals, and 
 very broad at the b*im 
 
TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 
 
 43 
 
 Daffodil, with white reflexed pe- 
 tals, and golden cups 
 
 White daffodil, with purple cups 
 Polyanthus Narcissus, having many- 
 small flowers on a stalk, from 
 the same sheath. Of this are 
 the following varieties : — 
 
 White, with white cups 
 
 Yellow, with yellow cups 
 
 White, with yellow cups 
 
 White, with orange cups 
 
 White, with sulphur-colored cups 
 
 Yellow, with orange cups 
 
 Yellow, with sulphur-colored cups 
 
 With several intermediate varie- 
 ties 
 
 -Vutumnal narcissus 
 . iquil, common single 
 
 .Large single 
 
 Common double 
 
 Double, with large round roots 
 i Hum, the lily, common white lily 
 
 ♦Vith spotted or striped flowers 
 
 With double flowers 
 
 With striped leaves 
 
 White lily, with hanging or pen- 
 dent flowers 
 
 Common orange lily, with large 
 single flowers 
 
 With double flowers 
 
 With striped leaves 
 
 Fiery, bulb-bearing lily, producing 
 bulbs at the joints of the stalks 
 
 Common narrow-leaved 
 
 Great broad-leaved 
 
 Many-flowered 
 
 Hoary 
 
 Martagon lily, sometimes called 
 Turk's-cap, from the reflexed 
 position of their flower-leaves. 
 There are many varieties, and 
 which differ from the other suits 
 of lilies in having the petals of 
 their flowers reflexed, or turned 
 backward. The varieties are — 
 
 Common red martagon, with very 
 narrow sparsed leaves, or such 
 as grow without order all over 
 the flower-stalk 
 
 Double martagoo 
 
 White 
 
 Double white 
 
 White spotted 
 
 Scarlet, with broad sparsed leaves 
 
 Bright red, many-flowered, or pom 
 pony, with short, grassy, sparsea 
 leaves 
 
 Reddish hairy martagon, with 
 leaves growing in whorls round 
 the stalk 
 
 Great yellow, with pyramidal 
 flowers, spotted 
 
 Purple, with dark spots, and broad 
 leaves in whorls round the stalk, 
 or most common Turk's-cap 
 
 White spotted Turk's-cap 
 
 Canada martagon, with yellowish 
 large flowers spotted, and leaves 
 in whorls 
 
 Campscatense martagon, with 
 erect bell-shaped flowers 
 
 Philadelphia martagon, with two 
 erect bright purple flowers 
 Squills, sea onion, or lily hyacinth, 
 common lily hyacinth, with a 
 lily root and blue flower 
 
 Peruvian, or broad-leaved hyacinth 
 of Peru, with blue flowers 
 
 With white flowers 
 
 Early white starry hyacinth 
 
 Blue 
 
 Autumnal starry hyacinth 
 
 Larger starry blue hyacinth of By- 
 zantium 
 
 Purple star-flower of Peru 
 
 Italian blue-spiked star-flower 
 Asphodel lily, African blue, with a 
 
 tuberous root 
 Tuberose, or Indian tuberous hyacinth. 
 It produces a small stem three 
 or four feet high, adorned with 
 many white flowers of great fra- 
 grance. 
 
 The varieties are, — 
 Fine double tuberose 
 Single tuberose 
 Small-flowered 
 Striped-leaved 
 Iris bulbosa, or bulbous Iris, Persian 
 with three erect blue petals 
 called standards, and three re- 
 flexed petals called falls, which 
 
u 
 
 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 ars variegated, called Persian 
 bulbous iris, with a variegated 
 flower 
 
 Common narrow-leaved bulbous 
 iris, with a blue flower 
 
 White 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Blue, with white falls . 
 
 Blue, with yellow falls 
 
 Greater broad-leaved bulbous iris, 
 with a deep blue flower 
 
 Bright purple 
 
 Deep purple 
 
 Variegated 
 
 Great, with broad and almost plain 
 or flat leaves, with blue flowers 
 
 Purple 
 
 Of the above there are many in- 
 termediate varieties 
 Hyacinth, eastern, with large flowers. 
 Of these there are many varie- 
 ties, and of which there are in- 
 numerable intermediate shades 
 or tints of color 
 Of double sorts there are, — 
 Blues 
 
 Purple blues 
 Agatha blues 
 Whites 
 
 Whites, with yellow eyes 
 Whites, with red eyes 
 Whites, with violet or purple 
 
 eyes 
 Whites, with rose-colored eyes 
 Whites, with scarlet eyes 
 Reds 
 Incarnate, flesh or rose-colored 
 
 Of single sorts there are, — 
 
 Blues, of various shades, as 
 
 above 
 Whites 
 Reds 
 
 Rose-colored 
 
 With many intermediate shades 
 or varieties 
 (Muscaria) . or musk hyacinth 
 
 Ash-colored 
 
 White 
 
 Obsolete purple 
 
 Greater yellow African 
 
 Grape hyacinth 
 
 Purple 
 Blue 
 White 
 Red 
 
 Monstrous flowering, or blue-lea« 
 thered hyacinth 
 
 Comosed, or tufted purple hyacinth 
 
 Amethystine blue hyacinth 
 
 Nodding, spiked, red hyacinth 
 
 Non-script small English hyacinth, 
 or harebells, of the following 
 varieties : — 
 
 Common blue flowers arranged on 
 one side of the stalk 
 
 White 
 
 Bell-shaped blue hyacinth, with 
 flowers on every side of the 
 stalk 
 
 Bell-shaped peach-colored, with 
 flowers on one side of the stalk 
 
 These are very hardy, propagating 
 by offsets 
 
 Hyacinth, with a pale purple 
 flower 
 Colchicums in variety 
 Leontice, lion's leaf, largest yellow 
 with single foot-stalks to the 
 leaves 
 
 Smaller pale yellow, with branched 
 foot-stalks to the leaves 
 Cyclamen, sow-bread, European, or 
 common autumn-flowering, with 
 a purple flower, and angular 
 heart-shaped leaves 
 
 The same, with a black flower 
 
 The same, with white flowers 
 
 Red spring-flowering, with heart- 
 shaped leaves, marbled with 
 white 
 
 Entire white, sweet-smelling 
 
 Purple winter-flowering, with 
 plain or circular shining green 
 leaves 
 
 Purple round-leaved autumn-flow- 
 ering 
 
 Small, or anemone-rooted, with 
 flesh-colored flowers appearing 
 in autumn : these plants have 
 large, round, sc!id roots ; the 
 flowers and leaves rise immedi- 
 ately from the root 
 
FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 45 
 
 Corona Regalis, or royal crown • re- I Aconite, the winter 
 quires shelter in the winter I Sisyrinchium 
 
 AURICULA, RANUNCULUS, ANEMONE. 
 
 These early and beautiful flowers deserve peculiai notice, for 
 oo garden looks well without them, and their bright tints delight 
 the eye and mind. The commonest kinds are handsome and use- 
 ful in small clumps, and a little care and trouble will raise superb 
 varieties, 
 
 The Auricula loves a soil composed of kitchen-garden mould, 
 sand, and cow -dung, well mixed together ; they also like a cool 
 situation. The seed should be sown in September, and when 
 sown give it a gentle watering. By sowing the seed in pots or 
 boxes, you can remove them from heavy rains, &c, without 
 trouble, and shelter them in the outhouses or tool-house. The 
 seed seldom appears under six months, and it has been sometimes 
 a twelvemonth producing itself, therefore be not in despair, but 
 remain patient ; these freaks of nature cannot be accounted for. 
 When they flower, you must single out the plants which bear 
 the finest and most choice blooms, and transplant them into pots 
 filled with the compost above described. The common sorts 
 may be planted in the borders, to remain out and shift for them- 
 selves. By keeping the fine auriculas in pots, you preserve them 
 through the winter easily, for heavy rains and cutting winds do 
 them harm. You can sink them in their pots during summer ic 
 the flower-beds, but let them be sheltered during the winter, if 
 you wish to preserve the blooms uninjured. 
 
 Auriculas multiply also by suckers, which grow on their roots. 
 Take off these in February, and plunge them into pots of the 
 mould they like best, to root freely. They will do so in two 
 months. Auriculas should not be too much watered, as it makes 
 them look sickly, and the leaves become yellow. When you pot 
 
46 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 the auriculas, sink them up to their leaves in the soil, but do not 
 press the mould round the plant, as the flowers bloom finest when 
 the roots touch the sides of the flower pot. 
 
 The auricula is esteemed fine that has a low stem, a stalk pro- 
 portioned to the flower, the eye well opened, and always dry. 
 The glossy, the velvet, and the streaked auriculas are the most 
 admired. The stalk should be decked with many flower-bells, to 
 be handsome and healthy. 
 
 Take care to pull off all dead leaves round the plant at all 
 times, that it may appear neat and clean. Neatness is favorabk 
 to its perfect growth, as well as decorating it to the eye. 
 
 The Ranunculus does not like being mixed up with other 
 flowers, and from this " aristocratic principle " it is always planted 
 in separate knots 
 
 This flower loves sun and warmth. The root must be planted 
 in September, to bloom early in the summer, and it delights in 
 a rich, moist soil, well dug, and raked soft and fine. When you 
 plant them in beds or pots, they must be sunk two inches deep, 
 and dibble the hole with a round, not pointed, dibble. Place the 
 roots four or five inches apart, in the warmest situation in your 
 garden. By planting ranunculuses in pots, you can more easily 
 place them in warm situations, and withdraw them from heavy 
 rains. The more room you give these roots the finer they will 
 grow and blow. If your plots will allow of so doing, let the 
 roots be planted six or seven inches apart. The flowers will 
 repay your care. When ranunculuses in pots have flowered, re- 
 move them from the August rains, or take up the roots, to re- 
 plant in September. 
 
 The Ranuncurus with the double white flower must not be 
 taken up until September, when it should be taken up ^uoUy, 
 its roots parted, and replanted immediately 
 
ANEMONES. 47 
 
 The Yellow Ranunculus with the rue leaf, prefers being potted 
 to being planted in beds. 
 
 The Ranunculus propagates by seed as well as offsets. Sow 
 the seed as you do that of the auricula. 
 
 The most admired ranunculuses are the white, the golden 
 yellow, the pale yellow, the citron-colored, and the brown red. 
 The red is the least esteemed. The yellow ranunculus speckled 
 wkh red, is handsome, — also the rose-color with white inside. 
 
 Great varieties are obtained by seed. 
 
 The Anemones love a light soil, composed of kitchen-garden 
 mould, and sand, and leaf mould, well mixed, and sifted fine. It 
 should, if possible, be composed a year before it is used ; the 
 lighter it is the better for anemones. 
 
 The seed should be sown in September. The single flowers 
 alone bear seed, which is fit to gather when it appears ready to 
 fly away with the first gust of wind. As soon as the seed is 
 lodged, and raked smoothly into its fine, light bed, strew the bed 
 over with straw or matting, and give it a good watering. In 
 three weeks the seed will begin to rise, when the straw may be 
 removed. The young plants will flower in the following April. 
 
 When the roots are to be planted in September, sink them 
 about three inches deep, and six inches apart, that they may 
 come up strong and flower well. Make a hole in the ground for 
 them with your finger, and set them upon the broadest side, 
 with the slit downwards. 
 
 Those anemones planted in September will flower in March 
 And April, and the roots planted in May flower in autumn, but 
 the flowers are never so fine. 
 
 When anemones have done flowering, it requires some care in 
 taking up the roots, in order to part and put them by till the 
 time for replanting arrives. The roots or flaps are so small and 
 difficult to distinguish, that the earth should be taken up and 
 
48 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 laid upon a sieve to be sifted, when the flaps will alone remain 
 behind, or the earth may be deposited upon an open newspaper 
 or cloth, and well rubbed with the hand to feel for the minute 
 dark- colored flaps, which may easily escape observation. 
 
 The beauty of this flower consists in its thickness and roundness, 
 especially when the great leaves are a little above the thickness 
 of the tuft. 
 
 Choose your seed from the finest single anemone, with a broad, 
 round leaf. 
 
 The remaining tuberous-rooted flowers are very hardy. 
 
 BIENNIALS. 
 
 Biennial flowers, as the name implies, are plants that exist 
 only two years. They are propagated by seed, rising the first 
 year, and flowering the second. If they continue another year, 
 they are sickly and languid. The double biennials may be con- 
 tinued by cuttings and slips of the tops, as well as by layers and 
 pipings, though the parent flower dies — but they are not so fine. 
 A lady should have a space of ground allotted to biennial seed- 
 lings, so that a fresh succession of plants may be ready to supply 
 the place of those which die away. *The seeds should be sown 
 every spring in light, well-dug earth ; the young plants should 
 be kept very clean, and some inches apart from each other ; and 
 they must be finally transplanted in autumn into the beds where 
 they are intended to remain. 
 
 But there is a great uncertainty as to raising the double flowers, 
 therefore it is better to make sure of those you approve by per- 
 petuating them as long as you can, by any root offsets they may 
 tbrow off, — by pipings, cuttings, or by layers, as before noticed 
 l subjoin a list of the principal and useful biennials. 
 
HARDY BIENNIALS. 
 
 49 
 
 LIST OF HARDY BIENNIALS. 
 
 Canterbury Sells 
 
 Bme-flotrers 
 
 White 
 
 Purple 
 
 Pyramidal 
 Carnation. All the varieties, some- 
 what biennial-perennial. 
 Clary, Purple -topped 
 
 Red-topped 
 Colutea, ^Ethiopian 
 French Honeysuckle 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 Globe Thistle 
 
 Hollyhocks. Somewhat biennial-per- 
 ennial ; all the varieties ; always 
 by seed 
 Lunaria, Moonwort or Honesty 
 Mallow (Tree) • 
 
 Red 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 Purple 
 
 Red, white-bordered 
 
 Party-colored 
 
 Variegated 
 
 Painted Lady 
 
 Double of each 
 
 Mule, or Mongrel Sweet-william, 
 or Mule Pink 
 Tree Mallow (Lavatera arbor ca) 
 Tree Primrose 
 Night Stock 
 
 Poppy, Yellow-horned (Chelidonium 
 
 glaucum) 
 Rocket, Dame's violet 
 
 Single white 
 
 Double white 
 
 Double purple 
 
 Single purple 
 Rose Campion 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 Scabius, double 
 
 Dark purple-flowered 
 
 Dark-red 
 
 White 
 
 Starry purple-flowered 
 
 Starry white 
 
 Jagged-leaved starry 
 Stock Gilliflower 
 
 Brompton 
 
 Queen 
 
 Twickenham 
 Sweet-william 
 
 Common upright tall yellow 
 
 Small-flowered 
 Wall-flower 
 
 Yellow-flowered 
 
 Bloody 
 
 White 
 
 Double of each 
 Petunia 
 
 White 
 
 Lilac 
 
 When you make your seedling-bed or nursery, cover it over 
 with straw, or fern, or matting, during frost ; and to prevent the 
 birds pecking up the seeds, it is requisite to protect the bed by 
 strewing light boughs of thorn bushes over it, or fixing a net 
 upon sticks as a covering, till the plants appear. If cats, dogs 
 or poultry intrude into the flower garden, it is in vain to hope for 
 enjoyment. 
 
 Sow your biennial seeds in March, April, or May. I recom- 
 mend May, because the young plant^ in that month germ and 
 3 
 
50 LADIES* FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 vegetate quickly, surely, and without requiring defenses from the 
 frost. Plant them out in October, with a ball of earth to each 
 root, where they are to remain. 
 
 The Stock Gilliflowers in particular, having long, naked roots, 
 must be planted out very young, otherwise they do not succeed 
 well. 
 
 Honesty is a very early, rich- flowering biennial, which requires 
 no care ; they shed their seed, rise, and flower without any assist- 
 ance, in profusion. The only trouble is to weed it out of the 
 beds, that they may not stand in the way of other flowers. 
 
 Canterbury Bells are handsome flowers, and will bloom a long 
 time, if you cut off the bells as they deca} r . 
 
 The deep crimson Sweet-williams are most esteemed ; though 
 every variety looks well. 
 
 Sweet-williams may be increased by layers and cuttings, which 
 is the only sure way of securing the sorts you like ; for you may 
 sow seed every year, and not one in a thousand will reward you 
 by coming up double. 
 
 Carnations are the pride of a garden, and deserve great care 
 and attention. The common sorts, which are planted in borders, 
 should have a good rich earth about them, and be treated like 
 ,the pink ; but the finer serts should always be potted, to protect 
 "and shelter the plant from hares, rabbits, heavy rains, and severe 
 frost in the winter. Refresh the top of the pots with new soil in 
 June, and keep the plants free from decayed leaves. Gently stir 
 the earth round each plant occasionally ; and as plants in pots 
 require more water than if placed in the ground, let the carna- 
 tions be gently moistened about every other day during dry wea- 
 ther. Let the watering take place in the evening ; no flower will 
 endure being watered during the heat 01 a summer's day. Car- 
 nations love sand and salt in proper proportions. The brine which 
 is deposited upon the compost heap will answer every purpose 
 
HOLLYHOCKS. 51 
 
 of salts, (if it be regularly carried out), without adding common 
 salt: but let this be particularly attended to. The cook should 
 deposit her pickle and brine to good purpose upon the compost 
 heap, instead of splashing it down in front of her kitchen door. 
 
 Let each plant be well staked, and neatly tied to its supporter ; 
 and do not allow two buds to grow side by side upon the same 
 stem, for one will weaken the other. Pinch off the smaller bud. 
 tarnations love warmth ; therefore give them a sunny aspect to 
 blow in. The seedling plants may be treated like young pinks, 
 but this difference must be observed — pinks love shade, and car- 
 nations love warmth. A bed of carnations is a beautiful object. 
 The pots can always be sunk in a border or bed in fine weather. 
 Carnations may be layered, or piped, or slipped for propagation. 
 
 Water your carnations in pots once a week with lime water, if 
 they appear drooping, for this proceeds from a worm at the root ; 
 but the brine will destroy all insects quickly, when poured upon 
 the compost heap. 
 
 In propagating double Wall-flowers, take slips of the young 
 shoots of the head : this will perpetuate the clouble property and 
 color of the flower, from which they were slipped. In saving 
 seed for wall-flowers, choose the single flowers, which have five 
 petals or flower leaves. Double flowers have no seed. 
 
 Water the slips, and keep them shady and moist : they will 
 root by September. 
 
 Plant your Hollyhocks in September or October, where they 
 are to remain. Hollyhocks are a noble flower, and they love a 
 strong soil. Let a succession of these flower plants be attended 
 to in the biennial seed-bed. Keep them some inches apart from 
 each other in the seedling-bed, for they form large straggling 
 roots. The hollyhock looks well in clumps of three, at a good 
 distance apart, in large gardens or shrubberies, but they are 
 Rome what too overgrown for smaller parterres. 
 
62 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 Be particular in gathering your seeds on a fine, dry iay, and 
 put each sort in a separate brown paper bag till yo.i require 
 them. The very finest seedlings are, after all, those which spring 
 near the mother plant from self-sown seed, therefore, when you 
 weed or dig your flower borders, be careful not to disturb any 
 seedlings which may have sprung up. They always make strong, 
 fine blooming plants. 
 
 Take care of. your double-flowering plants in winter. The 
 double wall-flower is hardy enough to exist in the borders, but 
 the other double biennials deserve to be sheltered, for double 
 flowers are very handsome, and heavy rains, snow, or severe frost, 
 injures them. Take cuttings every year from them. 
 
 The Night Stock is tolerably hardy if sheltered during the 
 frost by ashes or litter. The sweetness after night-fall must 
 recommend it to all the lovers of fragrant flowers. 
 
 PROPAGATING BIENNIALS. 
 
 Every young lady must become acquainted with the manner 
 of operating upon plants, to preserve the finer sorts, which they 
 may wish to perpetuate. Raising from seed is slow, but it pro- 
 duces infinite variety. You, however, rarely see the same flower 
 produced twice from seed ; therefore you must propagate the 
 biennial and perennial flowers by layers, slips, pipings, and cut- 
 tings, if you wish to preserve any particular sorts. 
 
 To effect layers, prepare some rich, light earth, a parcel of 
 small hooked sticks, or little pegs, and a sharp penknife. 
 
 Now clear the ground about the plant you are going to layer ; 
 stir the surface well with your trowel, and put a sufficient quan- 
 tity of the prepared mould round the plant as will raise the sur- 
 face to a convenient height for receiving the layer. 
 
 Cut off the top of each shoot with your knife, about twc inches. 
 
PROPAGATING BIENNIALS. 53 
 
 and pull off tV.e lower leaves ; then fix upon a joint aliout the 
 middle of the shoot, and, placing your knife under it, slit the 
 shoot from that joint, rather more than half way up, towards the 
 joint above it. • 
 
 Now make an opening in the earth, and lay the stem, and slit 
 or gashed shoot, into it, and peg it down ; taking care to raise 
 the head of the shoot as upright as you can, that it may grow 
 shapely ; then cover it with the new mould, and press the mould 
 gently round it. Do this by each shoot till the plant is layered — 
 that is, till every shoot is laid down. They must be watered 
 often in dry weather, but moderately, not to disturb or wash 
 away the soil round the layers. In six weeks' time, each gashed 
 or slit shoot will have rooted, and become a distinct plant. They 
 may be taken away from the old parent stem in September, and 
 dug up with a ball of earth round each root, to be transplanted 
 into the plots or borders where they are to remain. 
 
 Carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, double wall-flowers, &c, are 
 the flowers most deserving of layers. 
 
 Piping, which belongs almost exclusively to carnations and 
 pinks, is a most expeditious mode of raising young plants. 
 
 Take off the upper and young part of each shoot, close below 
 a joint, with a sharp knife, and cut each off at the third joint, or 
 little knob ; then cut the top leaves down pretty short, and take 
 off the lower and discolored ones. When you have piped in this 
 way as many as you require, let them stand a week in a tumbler 
 of water, which greatly facilitates their doing well. Indeed, I 
 never failed in any pipings, slips, or cuttings, which I allowed to 
 soak and swell in water previous to planting. When you plant 
 the pipings, let the ground be nicely dug, and raked very fine ; 
 dibble no hole, but gently thrust each piping half way down into 
 the soft earth, slightly pressing the earth round each, to fix it in 
 the bed. Water them often if the weather is dry, but moder- 
 
54 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 ately, just to keep them moist ; and shade them from the hot sun 
 in the day. If pipings are covered with a hand-glass, they root 
 earlier, by three weeks, than those which are exposed. 
 
 Laying, piping, and slipping, are done in June and July. The 
 plants will be well rooted, and fit to plant out, in October. 
 
 The operation of slipping is easy. Tear the top shoots of the 
 plant to be so propagated, gently from their sockets; hold the 
 shoot between your finger and thumb, as near the socket as you 
 can, and it will tear as easily and neatly as you carve the wing 
 of poultry or game. Place the slips in water for a few days 
 previous to planting them, like pipings. They will root in six 
 weeks or two months, if kept shady and moist. 
 
 Cuttings must be made of shoots of the last year's growth of 
 roses, honeysuckles, &c, and planted in February. Choose the 
 strong shoots, and do not cut them less than six inches long. 
 Cut them with your knife in a slanting direction. Plant them in 
 a shady place, each cutting half way in the ground, which should 
 be cleaned, and well dug and raked, to receive tbem. Cuttings 
 made in February will root well by October. 
 
 Cuttings of flower stalks, such as scarlet lychnis, should be 
 done in May, June, and July. Take cuttings from the youngest 
 flower stems, and plant them carefully in nice mould, like pip- 
 ings. These flower cuttings should be in lengths of four joints 
 each. Covering them with a hand-glass raises them very quickly. 
 They root in two months. 
 
 Where hand-glasses are not to form any part of a lady's 
 arrangements, oil- papered frames are equally useful. I have 
 seen very economical and useful frames made of bamboo, in the 
 form of hand-glasses, covered neatly with glazed white cotton or 
 linen, or horn paper, made by a lady with great celerity and in- 
 genuity ; and her cuttings and pipings succeeded under them 
 admiraWy. Whatever shelters cuttings and pipings from the 
 
PROTECTION FOR CUTTINGS. 55 
 
 rays of the sun effects a material purpose. Linen is the best 
 shelter in the world from heat, but oiled or horn paper resists 
 rain better. 
 
 Dr. Priestley fs of opinion that salt water is very efficacious for 
 cuttings, if they are placed in it for a few days previous to plant- 
 ing. He remarks that it is a custom with the importers of exotic 
 plants to dip cuttings in ^alt and water, otherwise they would 
 perish on the passage. 
 
56 ladies' flowek gakdener. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 ANNUALS. 
 
 )NNUALS, as I have observed before, are flowers that 
 rise, bloom, and die in the same year ; and must there- 
 fore be raised from seed every year. 
 
 The first class of annuals, being very • delicate, and requiring 
 great care, with the constant assistance of glass frames, I shall 
 not even name, since they do not enter into the nature of my 
 work. 
 
 I proceed to the second class, which are hardier than the 
 above, though they should be raised in a warm border, and 
 be covered with a hand-glass, if you wish them to flower in good 
 time. 
 
 The ten weeks' Stocks will grow, if sown in a warm border, 
 towards the end of March, and should be afterwards transplant- 
 ed ; but if brought up in a hot-bed, they will flower a month or 
 six weeks earlier. 
 
 The China-aster, Chrysanthemum, white and purple Sultan, 
 African and French Marigolds, Persicarias, &c, will grow well in 
 a warm border of natural earth, if sown in April ; but they also 
 flower a month earlier if they are assisted by a hot-bed or glass. 
 These annuals must be all planted out when tolerably strong, into 
 the spots where they are destined to remain in the borders, tak- 
 ing care to allow to each plant plenty of space, that they may 
 not crowd each other. The China-aster branches into many 
 stems and flowers, therefore they may be planted singly, or not 
 
ANNUALS. 57 
 
 less than six inches apart. The July flowers, or more commonly 
 called gilliflowers, become expansive as they increase. They 
 should not be crowded together; three in a group are quite 
 sufficient, and they should be six inches apart. The same may 
 be said of the stock varieties. 
 
 I have ever found the hardy annuals grow finest by allowing 
 them to become self-sown. They flower some weeks earlier, and 
 invariably produce larger and brighter flowers. 
 
 When gathering my flower seeds in August and September, I 
 allow one half to remain sprinkled over the borders ; and the 
 young plants never fail appearing healthy and strong above 
 ground in March and April, the months appropriated to sowing 
 the seed. Thus, my Lavateras, Larkspurs, &c, are in beautiful 
 blow, while the second crop, or seeds sown in spring, are but 
 showing their green heads above the surface. I weed away the 
 superfluous self-sown plants to my taste ; but the birds take care 
 that no one shall be encumbered with a superfluity. I have by 
 this means a first and second crop of the same annuals, but the 
 crop of self-sown are far superior. They are up before the heats 
 come on, to dry the earth, and dwindle the flower. 
 
 Dig the ground well with your trowel, and rake it very fine, 
 before you put in the seeds in spring. Annuals love a light, 
 friable soil. Ail the hardy kinds may be sown in March, each 
 sort in little separate patches, as follows : — 
 
 Draw a little .earth off the top to one side, then sprinkle in the 
 seed, not too plentifully, and cover it again with the drawn-off 
 earth. Half an inch is sufficient depth for small seed. The 
 larger kind, such as sweet-peas, lupins, &c, must be sown an 
 inch in depth. When the plants have been up some time, thin 
 them well. The more space you have, the finer the plants will 
 rise. 
 
 The hardy annuals will not bear transplanting : they must be 
 3* 
 
58 
 
 left to flourish where they are sown. The large kinds, such as 
 the lavatera or mallow, should only be sown in groups of three 
 plants together. The lupin tribe should not exceed five plants in 
 a group. The Convolvulus, also, requires four or five plants only 
 in a group. Water the patches in dry. weather moderately, and 
 be careful never to use pump water. If you have no soft water, 
 a tub should be placed in the garden to receive rain water ; and 
 if, as in towns, pump water must be chiefly used, let it remain a 
 day or two in the tub, to soften in the air and sunshine. 
 
 The first week in April is the safest period for sowing annuals, 
 as the cutting winds have ceased by that time, and frost is not so 
 much to be apprehended. The soft rains, also, fall in warm 
 showers, to give life and germ to seeds and plants, and they 
 appear in a shorter space of time. 
 
 Those ladies who live in the vicinity of nursery gardens have a 
 great advantage over the more remote flower-fanciers. They can 
 be supplied, at a trifling expense, with all the tender annuals 
 from hot-beds, either in pots, or drawn ready for immediate 
 transplanting. 
 
 If you do not raise your own seed, be careful how you pur- 
 chase your stock, and of whom you receive it. Many seedsmen 
 sell the refuse of many years' stock to their youthful customers, 
 and produce great disappointment. There is one way of ascer- 
 taining the goodness of the seed, which will not deceive. Pre- 
 vious to sowing, plunge your lupin, sunflower, &c, seeds into a 
 tumbler of water : the good seed will sink, while the light and 
 useless part remains floating on the surface. 
 
 If you grow your own seed, exchange it every two years with 
 your neighbors. Seeds love change of soil: they degenerate, 
 if repeatedly grown and sown upon the same spot, % particularly 
 Bweet-peas. 
 
 Sweet-peas should be put into the ground early in March, foi 
 
ANNUALS. 59 
 
 they will bear the wind and weather. Make a circle rcund a 
 pole, or some object to which they may cling as they rise ; and 
 put the peas an inch deep, having soaked them previously in 
 water well saturated with arsenic, to guard them from the depre- 
 dations of birds and mice. Add an outer circle of peas every 
 month, so that a continual bloom may appear. The circle first 
 sown will ripen and pod for seed in the center, while the outer 
 vines will continue flowering till late in the autumn; When you 
 have gathered a sufficient number of ripe pods, cut away all the 
 pods which may afterwards form with your knife. This strength- 
 ens the vines, and throws all their vigor into repeated blooms. 
 
 Be very careful to throw away the arsenic water upon your 
 heap of compost, and do not put that powerful poison into any 
 thing which may. be used afterwards in the house. Soak the 
 peas in a flower-pot saucer which is never required for any other 
 purpose, and keep it on a shelf in the tool-house, covered up. 
 Three or four hours' soaking will be sufficient. If the wind and 
 frosts be powerful and continued, shelter the peas through March, 
 by covering them with straw or matting every evening. 
 
 I have got sweet-peas into very early blow by bringing them 
 up in pots in- doors, and transplanting them carefully in April, 
 without disturbing the roots. In doing this, push your finger 
 gently through the orifice at the bottom of the flower-pot, and 
 raise its contents " bodily." Then place the ball of earth and 
 plants into a hole troweled out to receive it ; cover it round gently, 
 and, if the weather is dry, water it moderately. 
 
 Ten-weeks' Stock is a very pretty annual, and continues a long 
 time in bloom. Mignionette is the sw r eetest of all perfumes, and 
 should be sown in September for early blowing, and again in 
 March for a later crop. It is always more perfumy and healthy, 
 if dug into the ground in autumn to sow itself. Venus' Looking- 
 glass is a very pret/ y, delicate flower. Indeed, every annual is 
 
60 
 
 LADIES FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 lovely ; and the different varieties give a gay and rich appearance 
 to the flower garden during the three summer months. 
 
 The Clarkias are very pretty annuals, with a hundred other 
 varieties lately introduced, and which are all specified in Mrs. 
 Loudon's new work upon annuals. My plan is, to give a general 
 idea of their treatment only, under the classification of hardy 
 annuals, or those annuals which may be nurtured without a hot- 
 bed. 
 
 Keep your annuals from looking wild and disorderly in a 
 garden by allotting the smaller kinds their separate patches of 
 ground ; and trim the larger annuals from branching among other 
 flowers. For instance, cut away the lower branches of the China- 
 aster, the African marigold, &c, and train the plant erect and 
 neatly to a slight rod or stick ; cut away the flowers as they 
 droop, reserving one or two of the finest blooms only for seed : 
 and let each plant look clean and neat in its own order. By 
 cutting away flowers as they droop, the plant retains vigoi 
 enough to continue throwing out fresh flowers for a long peiiod. 
 
 SECOND, OR LESS TENDER CLASS OF ANNUALS. 
 
 African Marigold, the orange 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Straw-colored 
 
 Double of each 
 
 Double-quilled 
 French Marigold, the striped 
 
 The yellow 
 
 Sweet-scented 
 China-aster, the double 
 
 Double purple 
 
 Double white 
 
 Double-striped 
 Marvel of Peru, the red striped 
 
 Yellow-striped 
 
 Long-tubed 
 Chrysanthemum, the double white 
 
 Double yellow 
 
 Double-quilled 
 Sweet Sultan, the yellow 
 
 White 
 
 Red 
 Indian Pink, double 
 
 Single 
 
 Large imperial 
 Alkckengi 
 Palma Christi, the common 
 
 Tall red-stalked 
 
 Smaller green-leaved 
 
 Smallest 
 Tobacco, long-leaved Virginia 
 
 Broad-leaved 
 
 Branching perennial 
 Love Apple, with red fruit 
 
 With yellow fruit 
 Gourds, the round smooth orange 
 
 Rock, or warted 
 
 Pear-shaped yellow 
 
 Pear-shaped striped 
 
ANNUALS. 
 
 61 
 
 Si one colored 
 
 Bottle Gourd, some very large, from 
 two or three to five or six feet 
 long, and of various shapes 
 
 Momordica Balsamina 
 
 Perskaria 
 
 Indian Corn, the tall Dwarf 
 
 Nolana prostrata, blue 
 
 Cowtoolvtdus, scarlet-flowered 
 
 Yellow Balaam, or Touch-me-not 
 
 Capsicum, long red podded 
 Long yellow- podded 
 Jled. short, thick, roundish podded 
 With heart-shaped pods 
 With cherry-shaped fruit, red 
 Cherry-shaped fruit, yellow 
 
 Basil, the common, or sweet-scented 
 Bush basil 
 
 Zinnia, red 
 Yellow 
 
 Amaranthus 
 
 Tree Amaranthus 
 
 Prince's feather amaranthus 
 Love-lies-bleeding amaranthus 
 
 Cannacorus, yellow- 
 Red 
 
 Chinese Hollyhock, the variegated 
 
 Ten-week Stock Gilliflower 
 The double red 
 Double white 
 Double purple 
 
 White Ten- week Stock, with a wall- 
 flower leaf 
 With double and single flowers 
 The double of this sort makes a 
 pretty appearance 
 
 The following are hardy annuals, requiring no assistance of 
 artificial heat, but should all be sown in the place where it is 
 designed they shall flower : — 
 
 Admis Flower, or Flos Adonis, the 
 red-flowering 
 
 The yellow 
 Candytuft, the large 
 
 Purple 
 
 White 
 Larkspur, the double rose 
 
 Double-branched 
 
 Large double blue 
 
 Double white 
 Lupins, the rose 
 
 Large blue 
 
 Small blue 
 
 Yellow 
 
 White 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 Marbled 
 Sunflower, the tall double 
 
 Double dwarf 
 Lavatera. red 
 
 White' 
 Poppy, the double tall striped car- 
 1 ation 
 
 Dwarf-striped 
 
 Double corn poppy 
 
 H »rned poppy 
 
 Convolvulus, major 
 
 Minor 
 
 Striped 
 
 White 
 
 Scarlet 
 Ketmia bladder 
 Starry Scabius 
 Hawkweed, the yellow 
 
 Purple, or red 
 
 Spanish 
 Carthamus tinctorius, Or saffron 
 
 flower 
 Nasturtium, the large 
 
 Small 
 Cerinthe major, or great Honey-wort 
 Tangier Pea 
 Sweet Pea, the painted lady 
 
 The purple 
 
 White 
 
 Scarlet 
 Winged Pea 
 Crowned Pea 
 
 Nigclla, or devil in a bus* the long 
 blue, or Spanish 
 
 The white 
 
 Oriental mallow, c^ci 
 
62 
 
 LADIES FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 - 
 
 Venetian mallow 
 LobeVs Catchfly, white and red 
 Arbiscus 
 Pimpernel 
 Dioarf Lychnis 
 Venus' s Navel-wort 
 Venus' s Looking-glass 
 Virginian Stock 
 Strawberry Spinach 
 Noli me tangere, or Touch-me-not 
 Heart's Ease 
 Snail Plant 
 
 Larjje ditto 
 Caterpillar Plant 
 Hedgehog Plant 
 
 Antirrhinum, snap-dragon, ;he annual 
 Nolana, blue 
 Cyanus, or corn-bottle, th? red 
 
 White 
 
 Blue 
 Roman Nettle 
 
 Belvidere, or summer cypress 
 Garden, or common, Marigold, the 
 common single 
 
 Ikuble orange 
 
 Double lemon-colored 
 
 Double lemon-colored ranunculus 
 marigold 
 Annual Cape Marigold, with a violet 
 
 and white flower 
 Mignionette, or reseda, the sweet- 
 scented 
 
 The upright 
 Xeranthemum, or eternal flower, red 
 
 and white 
 Purple Clary 
 Purple Jacobcea 
 Dracocephalum, the purple 
 
 Blue 
 Capnoidcs, or bastard fumitory 
 Ten- week Stock Gillijlowers, in variety 
 Persicaria 
 Tobacco Plant 
 
 Long-leaved, 
 
 Round-leaved 
 Indian Corn 
 Amethystea 
 Globe Thistle 
 Clarkias 
 
ROSES AND JASMINES. 63 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 ROSES AND JASMINES. 
 
 -g^\HESE most delicious, most elegant flowers — in themselves 
 if&p a garden — are worthy of a chapter devoted exclusively 
 \2J/ to their culture. What cottage exists without its roses 
 twined around the doorway, or blooming up its pathway ? 
 What is sentiment without its roses? What other flower illus- 
 trates the beauty and excellence of a loved one ? — • 
 
 " Oh ! my love is like the red, red rose, 
 That sweetly blows in June." 
 
 Every gentle feeling, every exquisite thought, every delicate 
 allusion, is embodied in the rose. It is absurd to say the rose by 
 any other name " would smell as sweet." It is not so. Poetry, 
 painting, and music, have deified the rose. Call it " nettle," and 
 we should cast it from our hands in disgust. 
 
 There are innumerable varieties of roses, from the cottage rose 
 to the fairy rose, whose buds are scarcely so large as the bells of 
 the lily of the valley. Mrs. Gore mentions some hundreds of 
 sorts, but such a catalogue is too mighty to insert in my little 
 work. I will name only the well-known hardy kinds, and refer 
 my reader to Mrs. Gore herself for the complete collection. Seed 
 yields such inexhaustible varieties, that a new list will be required 
 every ten years. 
 
 The Damask rose is very useful from its properties, as well as 
 its beauty and hardihood. Rose-water is distilled from this 
 bright, thickly-blowing flower 
 
64 LADIES' FLOWEll &ARDENEK. 
 
 The Cabbage roses is the most beautiful, as well as the most 
 fragrant of roses. All others are varieties of roses, but this grand 
 flower is the " rose itself." 
 
 It throws out suckers plentifully for propagating its kind ; and 
 every two or three years, the root of each bush will part into 
 separate plants. Cut the roots slanting with a sharp knife as 
 you divide them. A very small bit of root is sufficient for a rose- 
 bush, as they are hardy in their nature. Do not move roses 
 oftener than you can help : they delight in being stationary for 
 years. 
 
 In pruning roses of every description, which should be effected 
 in January, shorten all the shoots to nine inches only, and cut 
 away all the old wood, which becomes useless after two or three 
 years' growth. This treatment insures fine flowers. 
 
 Roses love a good soil, as, indeed, what flower does not? 
 Fresh mould applied to them every two or three years, or 
 manure dug round them annually, preserves them in constant 
 vigor and beauty. 
 
 Shoots of rose-bushes laid down and pegged like layers, only 
 without gashing, when the flowers are in bloom, will root and 
 become plants in the autumn. Pinch off their buds, that they 
 may throw their strength into their roots. 
 
 Roses are often observed to change their color, which effect 
 proceeds chiefly from bad soil. When this occurs, manure the 
 root of the bush or plant. A clay soil, well dressed with ashes, 
 is the best of all soils for the hardy roses. 
 
 Moss roses love a cool soil and a cool aspect. They soon fado 
 in a hot sun. 
 
 A pyramid of climbing roses is a beautiful object in a garden. 
 Iron or wooden stakes, twelve feet in height, gradually approach- 
 ing each other, till they meet at the top, with climbing roses 
 trained up their sides, is a pleasing and easily constructed orna- 
 
ROSES AND JASMINES. 65 
 
 ment. Fancy and taste may range at will in inventing forms to 
 ornament the parterre with roses. Beds of roses, raised pyramid- 
 ally, have a splendid effect. When the flowers die away in the 
 autumn, the mass may be clipped again into form, with the 
 garden shears, as you wjuld clip a laurel hedge. 
 
 Standard roses, which are so much in fashion at this time, and 
 which always remind one of a housemaid's long broom for sweep- 
 ing cobwebs, are beyond a lady's own management, as budding 
 is a troublesome business, and very frequently fails. I will not, 
 therefore, touch upon that subject. 
 
 The double yellow rose is very elegant. It requires a western 
 aspect, and even prefers north and east, but a warm aspect in- 
 jures its beauty. It loves a good substantial soil, and will not 
 bear much cutting or removing. Let it alone in its glory, only 
 pruning away the old scraggy wood occasionally, to strengthen 
 the plant. 
 
 The monthly rose is also a lover of the north and east. It 
 blooms through the autumn and winter, has an evergreen leaf, 
 and loves a stroig soil. It must be propagated by cuttings, and 
 parting the roots, as it never throws up suckers. Prune away 
 the old wood, and make cuttings in June, July, and August, of 
 the branches you clear away. Plant the cuttings in loose, moist 
 earth, and do not let them bud till the following year. Let the 
 cuttings be sunk two joints in the earth, leaving only one exposed. 
 The monthly rose climbs, or creeps. 
 
 The Austrian briar, or rose, will not flower if exposed to the 
 south. It bears a rich mass of flowers, yellow outside, and deep 
 red within. Give it an eastern or western aspect. 
 
 The jyerpetual, or " four-season " rose, requires a rich soil. 
 The flower buds appearing in June or July should be pinched 
 off, and in winter the plant may be pruned as closely as its 
 
6Q ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 hardier companions. Place the four- season rose in a sheltered 
 situation from winds. 
 
 Among the hard) T climbing roses, the Ayrshire rose is the most 
 useful. Its foliage is rich, and it covers fences, walls, &c, with 
 astonishing rapidity. It flowers in July. Place it in a warm 
 situation, and it will extend thirty feet in one season. 
 
 Lady Banks's yellow rose is a pretty climber, and flowers early 
 in all situations. So does the Rosa sempervirens. 
 
 Climbing roses will grow luxuriantly under the shade of trees, 
 and form a mass of fragrant underwood in shrubberies. They 
 grow with surprising vigor if allowed to remain prostrate. Plant 
 these thinly, and lay in the most vigorous shoots, by pegging 
 them down into the ground. This process increases the plants 
 rapidly, and gives the gayest possible effect. 
 
 The Rosa hybrida multiflora is a hardy and rapidly growing 
 rose. It flowers also from June to September. So does the red 
 and crimson Boursault, and the Rosa Russeliana. 
 
 Roses are subject to the green fly, which disfigures their beauty, 
 particularly the white roses. An excellent remedy*fdr this annoy- 
 ance is effected by moistening the plant, and then dusting it over 
 with equal portions of sulphur and tobacco dust. 
 
 The following list of roses will not prove beyond a lady's man- 
 agement, being hardy, and requiring only pruning every January, 
 and giving them a good soil. * Prune the white rose-trees very 
 sparingly, as they do not love the knife : — 
 
 Roses, early cinnamon 
 Double yellow 
 Single yellow- 
 Red monthly 
 White monthly 
 Double white 
 Moss Provence 
 Common Proven *5 
 Double velvet 
 
 Single Ditto 
 
 Dutch hundred-leaved 
 
 Blush ditto 
 
 Blush Belgic 
 
 Red ditto 
 
 Marbled 
 
 Large royal 
 
 York and Lancaster 
 
 Red damask 
 
ROSES AND JASMINES. 67 
 
 Blush ditto Virgin, or thomless 
 
 Austrian, with flowers having one Common red 
 
 side red and the other yellow Burnet leaved 
 
 White damask Scotch, the dwarf 
 
 Austrian yellow Striped Scotch 
 
 Double musk Apple-bearing 
 
 Royal virgin Single American 
 
 Rosa mundi, i. e., rose of the world, Rose of JVteux 
 
 or striped red rose Pennsylvanian 
 
 Frankfort Red cluster 
 
 Cluster blush Burgundy rose 
 
 Maiden blush Perpetual, or four-season 
 
 HARDY CLIMBING ROSES. 
 
 The Ayrshire rose 
 
 Double ditto 
 Rose hybrida multiflora 
 Rose Clair 
 Rosa Russeliana 
 Re versa elegans 
 
 Rosa sempervirens, three sorts 
 
 Rose ruga 
 
 Red Boursault 
 
 Crimson ditto 
 
 Lady Banks' yellow rose 
 
 JASMINES. 
 
 Jasmines grow in very irregular forms. Perhaps their luxuri- 
 ant wild appearance constitutes their chief grace. The jasmine 
 is a beautiful screen in summer, wreathing its festoons through 
 trellis-work ; and it appears to me that Nature presents not, in 
 our colder climes, a more fragrant and beautiful bouquet than a 
 mixture of roses and jasmines. 
 
 The common jasmine is hardy, and loves a good soil, by which 
 term I mean kitchen garden soil. Trench round the stem occa- 
 sionally to lighten the earth, and it will grow very freely. Put 
 litter round the jasmine in severe frost ; and if a very rigorous 
 season destroy the branches, the root will be saved, and its shoots 
 in the spring will soon replace the loss. If they shoot out with 
 displeasing irregularity and confusion, take off the least healthy 
 looking branches, and cut away those which grow rumpled, for 
 they only consume the juices of the plant to no purpose. The 
 common jasmine is propagated by Jayers and slips. 
 
68 LADIES' FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 The Arabian jasmine is very fragrant, but it does net endure 
 cold, or much heat, therefore an eastern aspect suits it best. If 
 the Arabian jasmine is grown in a large pot or box, it could 
 be placed under cover during frost in the winter months ; but do 
 not place it in a green-house, which would' be in Ihe other ex- 
 treme again. 
 
 The yellow jasmine may be treated like the common jasmine. 
 It is not very fragrant, but it forms an elegant variety. 
 
 I have seen very fanciful and beautiful devices invented to dis- 
 play the beauty of the jasmine. Their shoots grow so rapidly 
 and luxuriantly, that if the plant is allowed to luxuriate, it will 
 soon cover any frame- work with its drooping beauty. The jas- 
 mine loves to hang downwards ; and I have admired inventive 
 little arbors, where the plant has been trained up behind them, 
 and the branches allowed to fall over their front in the richest 
 profusion, curtained back like the entrance of a tent. The effect, 
 during their time of flowering, was remarkably elegant. 
 
 When you prune the jasmine, cut the branches to an eye or 
 bud, just by the place from which they sprout, and that in such 
 a manner, that the head when trimmed, should resemble the head 
 of a willow. This method makes them throw out abundance of 
 branches and fine flowers. 
 
 Give fresh soil to the jasmine every two years, or they will 
 gradually become weakened in their blooms. The secret of hav- 
 ing fine flowers is in keeping up the soil to a regular degree of 
 strength, as the human frame languishes under change of diet, 
 and becomes weakened for want of food. Thus it is with animate 
 and inanimate nature. 
 
EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 69 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. 
 
 /£$!) SHALL speak now of the ornamental shrubs which de- 
 f^M) corate a flower garden, and which a lady may superintend 
 ^-2 herself, if her own physical powers are not equal to the 
 fatigue of planting. A laborer, or a stout active girl, may act 
 under her orders, and do all that is necessary to be done, in 
 removing or planting flowering shrubs and evergreens. 
 
 In planting flowering shrubs, be very particular to plant them 
 at such distances that each plant may have plenty of room to 
 grow, and strike out their roots and branches freely. If shrubs 
 are crowded together, they become stunted in growth, and lanky 
 in form. 
 
 If you are forming a clump, or even a plantation, let each 
 shrub be planted six feet apart from its neighbor : but if you 
 wish to plant roses, syringas, honeysuckles, lilacs, &c, in your 
 flower borders, they should be from twelve to fifteen feet distant 
 from each other, so as not to interfere with the flowers growing 
 below them. 
 
 Do not plant tall shrubs promiscuously among low-growing 
 ones. Let the taller shrubs form the back-grounds, that each 
 shrub may be distinctly seen. The shrubs should be trained up 
 with single stems, and they shouM be pruned every year, 
 taking up the suckers, and removing disorderly branches. 
 
 By allowing each shrub plenty of room, it will form a hand- 
 some head, and throw out vigorous shoots. You will also have 
 
70 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 space to dig between the shrubs, and the sun and air can benefit 
 them. 
 
 Some of the more beautiful evergreens look extremely well 
 dotted about the grounds singly or in clumps, but be very parti- 
 cular in planting your shrubs. 
 
 For instance, when you wish to transplant or plant a shrub, 
 dig a circular hole sufficiently large to receive the roots of the 
 plant, which must be laid neatly down, while some person holds 
 the shrub in its proper position, straight and upright. Cut away 
 any dead or damaged roots ; then break the earth well with your 
 spade, and throw it into the hole, shaking the plant gently, just 
 to let the earth fall close in among the roots. When it is well 
 filled up, tread the earth gently round the shrub to fix it, but do 
 not stamp it, as I have seen people do. 
 
 But if you can take up shrubs with a ball of earth round their' 
 roots, they do not feel the operation, and their leaves do not 
 droop. Water each shrub after planting : give each of them a 
 good soaking, and let each plant have a stake to support it dur- 
 ing the winter. 
 
 October is the autumn month for transplanting shrubs, and 
 February and March are the spring months. I always prefer the 
 autumn transplanting, as the rains and showers are so fructifying. 
 March is the last month for transplanting evergreens. 
 
 Laurustinus, Phillyreas, and Laurel, are excellent shrubs to 
 plant near buildings, or to hide a wall. They are- evergreen 
 summer and winter, very hardy, and quick growing. 
 
 The Pyracantha is an elegant shrub, with its clusters of red 
 berries ; and it looks gay during the autumn and winter. 
 
 The Arbutus, or strawberry tree, is loaded with its strawber- 
 ries in August, September md October. This is a beautiful 
 shrub, placed singly on a lawn, kept to one single clean stem, 
 Aiid a fine branching head. 
 
EVERGKEEN SHRUBS. 71 
 
 Portugal laurels are beautiful : their deep green leaves, and 
 scented feathery flowers, make them an important shrub in all 
 gardens. 
 
 It has been ascertained by the late severe winter, that ever- 
 greens are extremely hardy, and will bear any severity of frost. 
 All those evergreens considered most tender, such as Portugal 
 laurels, rhododendrons, &c, were observed to brave the frost un- 
 hurt, which were placed in high unsheltered places, or facing the 
 east and north. It was observed, also, that those evergreens 
 were destroyed whose aspect was south and west, and which lay 
 in warm and sheltered situations. The cause was this. The 
 shrubs did not suffer which were not subject to alternations of 
 heat and cold ; while those which lay in warm situations, being 
 thawed by the sun's rays during the day, could not endure the 
 sudden chill of returning frost at night. 
 
 Plant your evergreens, therefore, fearlessly in exposed situa- 
 tions ; and care only, in severe winters, for those which are likely 
 to be thawed and frozen again twice in twenty-four hours. 
 
 Rhododendrons are very beautiful shrubs, and grow into trees^ 
 if the soil agrees with them. They love a bog soil. 
 
 The Camelia japonica is considered a green-house plant, but it 
 becomes hardy, like the laurel, if care is taken to shelter it for a 
 few winters, when it gradually adapts itself to the climate. Thi? 
 is troublesome, perhaps, as most things are, to indolent people ; 
 but the trouble is well repaid by the beautiful flowers of the 
 japonicas, its dark leaves, and delicate scent. 
 
 The gum Cistus is a handsome evergreen, and looks well any- 
 where and everywhere. Some straw litter spread round their 
 roots in winter is a great protection. 
 
 All evergreens of a hard-wooded nature are propagated rapidly 
 by layers in June or July. This is the method : — Dig round the 
 tree or shrub, and bend down the pliable branches ; lay them 
 
72 LADIES 5 flower gardener. 
 
 into the earth, and secure them there with hooked or forked 
 sticks. Lay down all the } 7 oung shoots on each branch, and 
 cover them with earth about five inches deep, leaving the tops 
 out about two, three, or four inches above ground, according to 
 their different leno-ths. If these branches are laid in June or 
 July, they will root by Michaelmas ; but if they are laid in 
 October, they will be a twelvemonth rooting. 
 
 The layers of Alaternuses and Phillyreas will sometimes be 
 two years rooting, if done so late as October ; therefore lay down 
 your shoots, if possible, in June. Let the shoots which are lay- 
 ered be those of the last summer's growth. 
 
 You may propagate shrubs also from cuttings in February and 
 October. Let strong shoots be chosen, of last summer's growth : 
 choose them from nine to fifteen inches long, and, if you can, take 
 about two inches of old wood with the shoots at their base. Trim 
 off the lower leaves, place the cuttings half way in the ground, 
 and plant them in a shady border to root. Do this in February, 
 in preference to October, as everything roots earlier from spring 
 operations. You may also plant cuttings in June, but keep them 
 moist and shady. 
 
 October is a good month for taking up suckers of lilacs, roses, 
 <fcc, and for all sorts of transplanting in its varieties. It is also 
 the month to transplant the layers of such shrubs as were laid in 
 the previous October. 
 
 I subjoin a list of hardy deciduous shrubs and evergreens, not 
 too tall to admit into a moderately sized flower garden : — 
 
 DECIDUOUS SHRUBS OF LESSER GROWTH. 
 
 Arbutus, Strawberry tree 
 Common 
 Double-flowering 
 Red- flowering 
 Eastern, 01 Andrachne 
 
 Almond, common 
 
 White-flowering 
 
 Early dwarf, single flowei 
 
 Double dwarf 
 Allhcea fruUx, striped 
 
EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 
 
 73 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 
 Blue 
 
 Purple 
 
 Pheasant's eye 
 . Indromeda, striped 
 
 Evergreen 
 Jzalea, with red flowers 
 
 White 
 B«t berry, common, red fruit 
 
 Stoneless, red fruit 
 
 White fruit 
 Bladder-nut, three-leaved 
 
 Five-leaved 
 Broom, the Spanish 
 
 Double-flowering 
 
 Yellow Portugal 
 
 White Portugal 
 
 Lucca 
 Bramble, double-flowering 
 
 American upright 
 
 White-fruited • 
 
 Dwarf 
 
 Thornless 
 Chionanthus,Fringe, or Snowdrop tree 
 Candleberry Myrtle, broad-leaved 
 
 Long-leaved 
 
 Fern-leaved 
 
 Oak-leaved 
 Cherry, double-blossomed 
 
 Cornelian 
 
 Dwarf Canada 
 Currant, with gold and silver-Motch- 
 ed leaves 
 
 With gooseberry leaves 
 
 Pennsylvanian 
 Dogwood, the common 
 
 Virginia 
 
 Great-flowering 
 
 Newfoundland 
 Empelrum, black-berried heath 
 Guelder Rose, common 
 
 Double, or snowball 
 
 Carolina 
 
 Gold-blotched leaf 
 
 Currant-leaved 
 Hydrangea, white-flowering 
 Honeysuckle, early red Italian 
 
 Early white Dutch 
 
 Late Dutch 
 
 Late red 
 
 Long-blowing 
 
 Large scarlet trumpet 
 
 Small trumpet 
 
 Oak-leaved 
 
 Early white Italian 
 
 Early red Italian 
 Ivy, deciduous, or Virginian creeper 
 Jasmine, the common white 
 
 Common yellow Italian 
 
 Gold-striped leaved 
 
 Silver-striped leaved 
 Lilac, blue 
 
 White 
 
 Purple, or Scotch 
 
 Persian, with cut leaves 
 
 Persian, white-flowered 
 
 Persian, blue-floweroJ 
 Lonicera, upright Honeysuckle 
 
 Red-berried 
 
 Blue-berried 
 
 Virginian 
 
 Tartarian 
 Mezereon, white 
 
 Early red 
 
 Late red 
 
 Purple 
 Mespilus, spring-flowering 
 
 Lady Hardwick's shrub 
 Peach, double-flowering 
 Privet, common 
 
 Silver-striped 
 
 Yellow-blotched leaves 
 Ptelea, or American Shrub Trefoil 
 Pomegranate, single-flowering 
 
 Double 
 Robinia, or false Acacia 
 
 Common 
 
 Yellow-flowered 
 
 Scarlet-flowered, or rose acacia 
 
 Caragana 
 Rhamnus, or Buckthorn 
 
 Common 
 
 Sea buckthorn 
 
 Yellow-berried 
 
 Creeping evergreen 
 Raspberry, double-flow** ing 
 
 Virginian sweet-flowering 
 Rose, in every Variety 
 Spiraea frutex, common red 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 White 
 
74 
 
 ladies' flowek gardener. 
 
 Sumach, scarlet 
 
 Large downy 
 . White 
 
 Virginia 
 
 Elm-leaved 
 
 Myrtle-leaved 
 
 Carolina 
 Syringa, common 
 
 Dwarf double-flowerin 
 Scorpion Senna 
 
 Smilax, broad-leavee 
 
 Blotched-leaved 
 Tulip Tree 
 Tamarisk, the Frefcia 
 
 German 
 Viburnum, or Way/arex 
 
 Common 
 
 Stripe-leaved 
 
 American broad-leaved 
 
 Maple- leaved 
 
 EVERGREENS. 
 
 Alaternus, common 
 Blotched-leaved 
 Jagged-leaved, plain 
 Ditto, striped 
 
 Silver-striped 
 
 Gold-striped 
 Cistus, or Rock Rose 
 
 Gum Cistus, with spotted flowers 
 
 With plain white flowers 
 
 Purple sage-leaved 
 
 Male Portugal 
 
 Bay-leaved gum 
 
 With hairy willow leaves 
 
 Black poplar-leaved 
 
 Waved-leaved 
 
 Purple, or true Gum Cistus of 
 Crete, with other varieties 
 Jytisus, Neapolitan 
 
 Canary 
 
 Siberian and Tartarian 
 Laurustinus. common 
 
 Broad, or shining-leaved 
 
 Rough-leaved 
 
 Oval-leaved 
 Bay, broad-leaved 
 
 Narrow-leaved 
 Phillyrea, the true 
 
 Broad-leaved 
 
 Privet-leaved 
 
 Prickly-leaved 
 
 Olive-leaved 
 
 Gold-edged 
 
 Silver-edged 
 
 Rosemary edged , 
 Juniper, common 
 
 Swedish 
 
 Sclavonian 
 
 Canada 
 Jasmine, evergreen 
 Pyracantha 
 Ivy, common 
 Striped-leaved 
 Virginian 
 
 Irish, or quick-growing 
 Honeysuckle, evergreen 
 Rose, the evergreen* 
 Rhododendron, dwarf Rose Bay 
 Kalmia, olive-leaved 
 Broad-leaved 
 Thyme-leaved 
 Coronilla, narrow-leaved 
 
 Broad-leaved 
 Magnolia, laurel-leaval 
 
 Lesser bay-leaved 
 Arbor VitcB, common 
 China 
 American 
 Cypress, common upright 
 
 Male spreading 
 Bignonia, the evergreen 
 Widow Wail 
 Locust of Montpelier 
 j Mcdicago, Moon Trefoil 
 Stonecrop Shrub 
 Ragwort, the sea 
 Holly, the common 
 Carolina broad-leaved 
 Yellow-berried 
 Many varieties 
 Laurels, common 
 Portugal 
 Alexandrian 
 ! Oak, Ilex, or evergreen 
 Kexmes, or scarlet-bearin> 
 
EVERGREEN" SHRUBS. 
 
 T5 
 
 Grainuntian, holly-leaved 
 
 Carolina live. 
 Germander, shrubby, of Crete 
 Euonymus, evergreen Virginia 
 Virginia Groundsel Tree 
 
 Wormwood, lavender-leaved 
 Spurge, or wood laurel 
 Knecholm, or Butcher's Broom 
 Horse-tail, shrubby 
 
 In pruning shrubs, be careful to cut out the long rambling 
 shoots of the last summer's growth, which disfigures their appear- 
 ance. Cut away, also, branches of shrubs which interlace each 
 other, that every shrub may stand clear and well-defined. Take 
 awav their suckers, and let each shrub be kept to a single stem, 
 as I have befo^ observed. 
 
76 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ON HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 
 
 (BY MR. CHARLES MACKINTOSH.) 
 
 )HK culture of flowering and sweet-scented plants, as orna- 
 ments in human dwellings, has been practiced from sucn 
 remote antiquity that no one can name the date of its 
 origin. House plants are also a kind of ornaments which all the 
 labors of the most refined art can never exceed or even reach ; 
 and hence in the most refined and luxurious states of society, 
 flowers maintain a high place among the leading ornaments ; and 
 the assembly-rooms of beauty and fashion, and the banqueting- 
 halls of the noble and the great, would look tame and barren 
 without those most beautiful and most appropriate decorums. 
 
 Farther, it is one of the great merits of these lovely produc- 
 tions of nature, that they are for the humble as well as for the 
 high. The humblest window in the most obscure and crowded 
 court of a city may have its flower- pot ; and they who are cut 
 off by occupation or other circumstances from the free range of 
 growing nature, may still command a little vegetable kingdom of 
 their own in a few well-selected and carefully-attended flowers. 
 
 A species of ornament, which is in its own nature so pleasing 
 and so innocent, which requires far less labor and expense than 
 many other ornaments of very inferior value, and which adapts itself 
 to every imaginable class of society, is surely worthy of the study, 
 the encouragement, and the care of all who seek happiness to 
 themselves, or wish to promote the happiness of others. 
 
HOUSE PI ANTS. 77 
 
 That there is 1 - no want of love for such plants is evident from 
 the places in which thev appear ; but the kind and state of the 
 plants very g ■ nerally show that there is a great want of know- 
 ledge, both in their selection and their management. In order 
 to contribute a little to the supplying of this defect, we propose 
 to offer a very brief compendium of what the French and Ger- 
 mans call " Window Gardening ;" and in order to render what 
 we state as clear as possible-, we shall divide it into several heads, 
 or points. 
 
 PLANTS PROPER FOR WINDOW CULTURE. 
 
 As the situation of these plants is different from what they 
 occupy in their natural state, it becomes necessary to select such 
 as are capable of accommodating themselves to circumstances ; 
 and as the unfavorable circumstances of house plants are chiefly 
 want of free and pure air, and of light, and in those species which 
 are accustomed to long seasons of repose in the winter, to uniform 
 temperature, these circumstances must be kept in mind in the 
 selection. Rooms, especially in crowded cities, are the most 
 unnatural, and, on that account, the very worst situations in 
 which plants can be placed ; and therefore, if healthy plants and 
 an abundance of bloom are sought for, variety must be sacrificed. 
 
 Plants which will continue healthy for a long time in the con- 
 fined air of rooms, are generally" those which have a peculiar 
 surface, or texture in the foliage : such are many of the Aloes, 
 Cactuses, Mesembryanthemums, among what are called succulent 
 plants ; and, in a higher temperature, some of the curious Epi- 
 phytce, or the natural order Orchidece. We recollect once seeing 
 a very interesting collection of more than two hundred species, 
 growing in a high state of perfection, in the house of an amateur 
 of succulent plants, living in the Grand Sablon at Brussels. The 
 
78 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 room containing them was fitted up much in the same way as an 
 ordinary library, with abundance of light shelves round the walls, 
 and a large table in the middle of the room, on which were placed 
 the pots containing the plants. At night, the room was lighted 
 up by an elegant glass lamp, and it was heated by one of those 
 ornamental stoves which are so common on the Continent. Alto- 
 gether, it had a very handsome appearance. 
 
 The Chinese are very attentive to the house culture of man} 
 of the orchideous epiphytae, and thereby greatly increase the 
 beauty and the fragrance of their apartments ; they have them 
 in ornamental vases and baskets, and even suspended in the air, 
 where they last for many years and flower beautifully. Some of 
 them continue in flower for many months, and diffuse the most 
 delightful fragrance during the night.* 
 
 The reason why the succulent and epiphytous plants answer 
 so well for house culture is, that their winter is one of drought 
 and not of cold, and that the latter especially have little, and 
 some of them no mould at the roots in their natural situations. 
 But there has been hitherto a prejudice against, or at all events 
 an ignorance of, and want of attention to, the culture of succu- 
 lent plants in this country. This is unwise ; for many of them 
 are exceedingly beautiful, highly fragrant, and better adapted for 
 house culture than any plants whatever. They are singularly 
 curious and varied in their structures ; and, generally speaking, 
 they require less light, air, and moisture, than other plants. 
 
 Next to them, in point of eligibility for house culture, may be 
 reckoned such plants as have coriaceous leaves, that is, have their 
 leaves firm, and with a smooth and compact epidermis, — such as 
 oranges, pittosporums, myrtles, and others of similar texture ; 
 these are found to have organs much better adapted to confined 
 
 * Rcnanthera coccinea is one of the finest of these, and was first tfowereJ 
 in this :ountry by the author of this paper. 
 
HOUSE PLANTS. 79 
 
 air than plants which have the leaves small or of delicate texture. 
 Some tribes, as the heaths, the Eixxcridece, and the whole race of 
 pinnate leaved and papilionaceous flowered plants, are wholly 
 unfit for house culture. 
 
 TREATMENT OF HOUSE PLANTS. 
 
 Water, heat, air, and light, are the four essential stimulants to 
 plants ; water, heat, and air, to promote growth ; and light to 
 render that growth perfect. 
 
 Water, heat, and air, man can command at his pleasure by 
 artificial means ; but over light, as an element of the perfect 
 growth of plants, we ha\%less control. To be beneficial to plants, 
 light must come directly from the sun ; and therefore the plants 
 should be so placed, as that it may act upon them with as little 
 as possible of that refraction and decomposition which it suffers 
 when it passes obliquely through glass, or any other medium 
 except the air. Plants grown in the open air, and with such free 
 exposure to the light as their habits require, not only develop all 
 their parts in their proper form, but their leaves, flowers, and 
 fruits, have their natural colors, odors, and flavors. Plants ex- 
 cluded from light have not their natural color, odor, nor flavor, 
 they make little or no charcoal in the woody part, the leaves are 
 not green, and if they do flower and fruit, which is rarely the 
 case, the flowers are pale and scentless, and the fruit is insipid. 
 This has been proved by many experiments, of which the blanch- 
 ing of celery and endive by earthing up, and that of a cabbage 
 by the natural process of hearting, are familiar instances. A 
 geranium placed in a dark room becomes first pale, then spotted, 
 and ultimately white ; and if brought to the light it again ac- 
 quires its color 
 
 If plants kept in the dark are exposed to the action of hydrogen 
 gas, they retain their green color, though how this gas acts has 
 
80 
 
 not been ascertained. Some flowers, too, such as the crocus and 
 tulip, are colored though grown in the dark. 
 
 Light seems to be fully as essential to plants as air or heat, and 
 while it acte beneficially on the upper surfaces of the leaves, it 
 appears to b* injurious to the under surfaces, at least of some 
 plants ; for in whatever way a plant is placed, it contrives to turn 
 the upper surfaces of its leaves to the light. Professor Lindley 
 is, we believe, making some experiments on this subject. 
 
 Plants in rooms turn not only their leaves, but their branches 
 to the window at which the light enters, and a plant may, by 
 turning it at intervals, be made to bend successively to all sides ; 
 but such bendings weaken the plant, ayl thus it is an excessive 
 or unnatural action. This turning of the plant to the light is 
 always of course in proportion to the brightness of that light as 
 compared with the other sides of the plant. Flowers, too, open 
 their petals to the light, and close them in the dark, or in some 
 cases, as in that of the crocus, when a cloud passes over the sun. 
 The same flower, and also some others, will open their petals to 
 the light of a lamp or candle, and close them again when that is 
 withdrawn. 
 
 It follows as a necessary consequence, that in rooms, plants 
 should be placed as near the window as possible, that the win- 
 dows should have a south exposure, and that they should be as 
 seldom as possible shaded with blinds or otherwise. If piaced 
 at a distance from the windows, plants should be frequently 
 changed, and to place them permanently on tables or man el- 
 shelves is bad management. 
 
 Air is as necessary to the health of plants as light ; but air :an 
 find its way where light cannot, and therefore it requires less c?re 
 from the cultivator, if the air is too close, opening the door and 
 windows produces a change, the warm aw* escaping at top, and 
 cold air coming in below ; but on opening the windows of a warm 
 
HOUSE PLANTS. 81 
 
 room in cold wea;her, care must be taken not to chill the plants 
 by leaving them in the cold current. 
 
 The heat of ordinary dwelling-houses is quite enough for such 
 plants as we would recommend for general culture in rooms, only, 
 in very cold weather, the plants should be removed a little further 
 from the windows. The blinds and shutters are usually a suffi- 
 cient protection during the night ; and we may remark that plants 
 in rooms are more frequently killed by too much heat than by too 
 much cold. 
 
 Spring and autumn are the times of the year at which window 
 plants require the greatest attention. It is usual to have the 
 plants outside the windows even during the night in the summer 
 season, and kept in the house both night and day in the winter 
 season. In the intermediate seasons of spring and autumn the 
 plants are frequently placed in their summer situation during the 
 day, and it is desirable that then they should be placed in their 
 winter situation during the night. Our climate is so variable at 
 those seasons, that we not only have summer during the day, and 
 winter during the night, but whole days of summer and winter 
 alternating with each other. Sometimes we have warmer days in 
 April than in May or June, and occasionally we have more severe 
 frosts in the beginning of September, than any which occur again 
 till November is nearly over. Now it is not the absolute heat or 
 cold, but the rapidity of the transition from one to the other 
 which is injurious to plants, and therefore it is absolutely necessary 
 for all such as would have their house plants in the perfection oi 
 beauty, to attend to those circumstances. This is more especially 
 necessary in towns, where the people are much less interested in 
 the changes of the weather, and therefore much less observant of 
 them than they are in the country ; and we have no doubt that 
 more plants are destroyed from want of attention to those varia- 
 ble periods of the year than from any other cause. It is a safe 
 
82 LADIES' FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 rule to trust no plant less hardy than a common Geranium out- 
 side the window all night, earlier than about the twentieth of 
 June, or later than the first of September. No doubt there are 
 many nights before the first of these times, and after the latter, 
 during which the plants might remain in the open air without 
 injury. There is, however, no knowing what a night may bring 
 forth at those inconstant seasons, and therefore the safe plan is 
 not to leave the plants to chance. 
 
 When, as often happens, plants get slightly injured by rost, 
 cold water should be sprinkled on them before the sun reaches 
 them, and this sprinkling ought to be continued as long as any 
 appearance of frost remains on the foliage. 
 
 Water is often very injudiciously applied to plants in rooms, 
 and the evil arises from falling into the opposite extremes of too 
 much and too little. Fear of spoiling the carpet, forgetfulness, 
 and sometimes a dread of injuring the plant, are the chief causes 
 of an under supply of water. On the other hand, many have a 
 notion that such plants should be watered every day, cfr at stated 
 periods, without inquiring whether it be necessary or not. Saucers 
 or pans are often placed under flower-pots to prevent the water, 
 which escapes, from soiling the apartment, but in these cases the 
 saucers should be partly filled with gravel, to prevent the roots 
 from being soaked with water, or the water which lodges in the 
 saucer should be removed. 
 
 Fanciful and elegant baskets of wire or wicker-work, and plant- 
 tables are, perhaps, preferable to common stages. The baskets 
 should have a pan, of zinc, copper, or other metal, and over this 
 • a bottom pierced with holes, or a grating of wire, on which the 
 pots are to be placed. The pan is generally about an inch deep, 
 and has a plug or other contrivance by which the surplus water 
 may be drawn. Plant-tables can be constructed in the same man- 
 ner, ai>d admit of an endless variety of forms, according to the 
 
HOUSE PLANTS. 83 
 
 taste of the owner. In either of these the pots may be wholly- 
 concealed by green moss, or cut paper, so that nothing but the 
 plants themselves may appear. 
 
 Water is as essential to the whole plant as it^s to the roots, be- 
 cause they are liable to collect dirt, and thereby to be injured; 
 they should, therefore, be frequently washed over with a syringe 
 having a rose to it, and in order to perform this operation pro- 
 perly, the plants must generally be removed to some other apart- 
 ment where they should remain till they are dry. In winter this 
 operation must be performed in mild weather only ; it should be 
 done in an apartment not ^colder than that in which the plants 
 usually stand, and the water should be about milk warm. When 
 the plants are in baskets or on tables, they can be removed and 
 washed without deranging their order. Plants which have large 
 and leathery leaves, such as oranges, pittosporums, camellias, and 
 myrtles, may be washed with a sponge, or if very foul they may 
 be washed with soap, and the soap carefully removed by pure 
 water. Loose dust may be removed by a pair of bellows. At- 
 tention to cleanliness greatly increases the vigor of the plant. 
 
 House plants are greatly benefited by being placed out of 
 doors in the summer months, especially during gentle showers . 
 and such as have no other convenience may advantageously place 
 them outside the windows. They may also be syringed and 
 washed in this position, and if the owner is not in possession of 
 one, a common watering-pot, held high, so that the water may 
 fall on the plant with considerable force, is a tolerable substitute. 
 . Plants respire by their leaves, as animals do by their breathing 
 apparatus, and it is on this account that keeping the leaves clean 
 is so very essential to the health of plants. Indeed, the dust 
 which collects on them, and interrupts their respiration, is one of 
 the greatest evils which can befall plants, especially in rooms and 
 0*1 balconies in towns. The respiring pores are generally large 
 

 
 84 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 in proportion as the leaves are so ; and this is one of the reasons 
 why delicate-leaved plants are not so well adapted for house cul- 
 ture as those which have the leaves larger and firmer. 
 
 Lio-ht has also a considerable effect in promoting the healthy 
 action of leaves, and many plants fold up their leaves in the dark, 
 or even when the sky is lowering: This, though it has no resem- 
 blance to sleep in animals, has been called the sleep of plants, 
 and the curious reader may find an interesting notice of it in the 
 " Amcenitates Academicae" of Linnaeus. 
 
 THE SUPPLY OF HOUSE PLANTS. 
 
 There are many ways of doing this ; but to those who have 
 the opportunity, and choose to be at the expense, there is, per- 
 haps, none better than that of contracting for the year with some 
 skilfull and respectable nurseryman ; in this case the plants will 
 be attended by the contractor, and kept in the best condition. 
 Much pleasure is, however, sacrificed by those who adopt this 
 mode, inasmuch as the chief enjoyment of plants arises from the 
 feeling that they are the nurslings of our own care ; and it is 
 astonishing how strongly the judicious treatment of plants leads 
 to judicious management in all other matters. 
 
 Plants, except such as are novelties and sought only by the 
 curious, may always be had at moderate prices from respectable 
 growers. Co vent Garden furnishes an abundant supply for Lon- 
 don, and those who are not so particular may have them of the 
 hawkers. In dealing with these people, some care is however 
 necessary ; very many of the plants which they offer for sale are 
 thrown away or stolen, and in both cases they are taken up with- 
 out any regard to the preservation of the roots, and thus there is 
 a considerable chance against their success. Those injured plants 
 are made to look healthy for a little time by means of an over 
 
HOUSE PLANTS. 85 
 
 supply of water, but they soon languish in the possession of the 
 purchasers. 
 
 Another very hazardous mode of purchasing plants is at those 
 sales which are very frequently got up in the spring and autumn. 
 At these, purchasers have no security that the plant is healthy, 
 or that it is what it professes to be, and thus they often pay a 
 higher price for a worthless article in a diseased state, than a re- 
 gular nurseryman would charge them for a good plant in the 
 Gnest condition. Such a nurseryman has always character at 
 stake, but the other parties, generally speaking, have none. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF BULBS IN GLASSES. 
 
 This is a favorite mode of house culture, and the bulbs best 
 adapted for it are hyacinths, polyanthus-narcissus, Van Thol, and 
 other tulips, crocus, Persian iris, narcissus, colchicum, Guernsey 
 lily, jonquil, and others. 
 
 Spring-flowering bulbs are usually purchased in September, 
 and the autumnal ones in July and August, and the largest and 
 best-formed bulbs should be chosen ; an abundant supply may 
 be obtained at little cost at the seed-shops and nurseries. To be 
 blown in winter or spring, the bulbs are placed in water in Octo- 
 ber, and so on in succession till February or March ; and for 
 autumn and early winter, they are placed in the water in August 
 and September. Dark-colored glasses are the best, as they pre-' 
 vent the light from decomposing the roots of the plants. Rain 
 water is preferable to any other, and it should be changed fre- 
 quently, not less than once every third or fourth day, to prevent 
 its getting putrid ; and in performing this operation care must be 
 taken both in withdrawing and in replacing the roots. This is 
 necessary only till the flowers have expanded ; for after this the 
 plants may be left undisturbed until the flowers have decayed. 
 
J6 LADIES FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 The water which is supplied must not be colder than that which 
 is withdrawn, or than the general temperature of the apartment. 
 Much heat is not necessary for such plants, because they flower 
 better the more slowly their vegetation proceeds. Chimney- 
 pieces and other warm situations are not nearly so well adapted 
 for those bulbs as stages near the window, or the window-sill 
 itself. 
 
 A better mode of growing those bulbs than the common mode 
 in glasses, would be in a table with a deep pan, and a wire grat- 
 ing on the top. This might be placed about nine inches from the 
 bottom of the pan, and the roots arranged on it, the taller ones 
 in the center, and those of more lowly growth towards the sides. 
 The water in the pan might be drawn off by a plug, and fresh 
 water supplied, without in the least disturbing the plants. 
 
 Bulbs may also be grown in fine white sand, kept constantly 
 moistened, and in this way very beautiful blooms may be obtained. 
 
 «. 
 
 NOSEGAYS AND CUT FLOWERS. 
 
 Though these are very acceptable to most persons, there arc 
 few who rightly understand the art of keeping them long in a 
 fresh state, or of reviving them when they have faded. It is 
 true, that when a flower or branch is cut off from its parent plant, 
 its support is thereby destroyed ; but still some flowers may be 
 kept in great beauty for a much longer period than others, and 
 many for a far longer time than is generally done, or even sup- 
 posed possible. 
 
 For this purpose, flowers should be gathered early in the 
 morning, but not till the dew be nearly dried off tnem. They 
 should be placed in a flat basket, or on a tray, so as not to press 
 upon and crush each other ; and they should be neatly cut, and 
 not mangled or bruised. When thus gathered, they should be 
 
HOUSE PLANTS. 87 
 
 covered with a sheet of paper, and immediately conveyed to the 
 apartment where they are to be used, if that apartment be near 
 at hand. But if they are to be sent to any distance, they should 
 be placed in tin cases, such as botanists use when collecting spe- 
 cimens. We have sent flowers, in such cases, for several hundred 
 miles, and found most of them in good condition at the end of a 
 journey of three or four days' continuance. In this way the 
 Dutch florists send specimens of their finest flowers not only to 
 England, but to more distant parts of continental Europe. Our 
 own florists send to the metropolis, for competition at exhibitions, 
 flowers from Cornwall, from the north of England and from Scot- 
 land, and they arrive without the least decay. They are placed 
 in wooden or tin boxes, having an internal arrangement of small 
 phials, fixed under a covering of tin or wood, perforated with 
 holes, just large enough to admit the stalks of the flowers, the 
 ends of which are placed in the water of the phials, and in this 
 way they are conveyed with perfect safety. 
 
 Flowers should not be cut during sunshine, or kept exposed to 
 the solar influence ; neither should they be collected in large 
 bundles and tied tightly together, as this invariably hastens their 
 decay. When in the room where they are to remain, the ends 
 of the stalks should be cut clean across with a very sharp knife 
 (never with scissors), by which means the tubes through which 
 they draw the water are left open, so that the water ascends 
 freely, which it will not do if the tubes of the stems are bruised 
 or lacerated. An endless variety of ornamental vessels are used 
 for the reception of such flowers, and they are all equally well 
 adapted for the purpose, so that the stalks are inserted in pure 
 water. This water ought to be changed every day, or once in 
 two days at the furthest, and a thin slice should be cleanly cul 
 off from the end of each stalk every time the water is removed, 
 which will occasion fresh action and re ive the flowers. Water, 
 
88 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 about milk warm, or containing a small quantity of camphor, will 
 sometimes revive decayed flowers. The best method of applying 
 this, is to have the camphor dissolved in spirits of wine, for which 
 the common camphorated spirits of the druggists' shops will be 
 quite sufficient ; and to add a drop or two of this for every ,half 
 ounce of water. A glass-shade is also useful in preserving flowers ; 
 and cut flowers ought always to be shaded during the night, and 
 indeed at all times when they are not purposely exhibited. The 
 following are some of the genera of plants the flowers of which 
 remain longest after being cut : — Gnaphalium, Astelma, Heli* 
 chrysum, Phoenocoma, Aphelexis, and othere, which the French 
 have designated "immortal flowers," from remaining unchanged 
 by decay, hold the first rank. Next to these come the whole 
 natural order, Proteacece, many of Graminece, several of Cruciferce, 
 several in Ehamneacce, several in Cassuvice — the genus Acacia in 
 Leguminosce, all Calycanthaceai, most of Myrtacece, most of Dip- 
 sacece, several of Composite, most of Ericece — the genera Laven- 
 dula, Sideritis and Phlomis, in Labiate, all Orobanckece, all 
 Plumboginece, all Amarantkacece, many of Orchidece, Strelitzia^ 
 and Heliconia in Musacece. 
 
 INSECTS AND DISEASES OF HOUSE PLANTS. 
 
 Plants in rooms, especially geraniums and roses, are very liable 
 to be attacked by aphides. These may be easily removed by 
 tobacco smoke or tobacco water ; and where the smell is not 
 offensive, smoke blown from a common tobacco pipe is as effec- 
 tual as any other method. Camphorated water may be used by 
 those who dislike the smell of tobacco. Mildew, occasionally, 
 though rarely, attacks house plants. It appears like a white 
 powder, and is supposed to consist of minute fungi ; but these 
 fungi are not the original disease, but its consequences, and theii 
 
HOUSE PLANTS. 89 
 
 appearance shows that the plant has been in impure air or other- 
 wise improperly treated. Sulphur or camphor will effectually 
 remove this mildew ; and a scaly insect of the coccus tribe, which 
 appears occasionally on oranges, camellias, and similai plants. 
 may be removed by a sponge and water. 
 
 Many persons have a dislike to plants in houses as being un- 
 healthy ; and as this dislike is in a great measure groundless, we 
 may notice it. Dr. Priestley was the first to show that the leaves 
 of plants absorb carbonic acid gas by their upper surfaces, and 
 give out oxygen by their under ones, thereby tending to purify 
 the air in as far as animal life is concerned ; because carbonic acid 
 gas is pernicious to animals, and oxygen is what that life acquires. 
 It is in the light, however, that these operations are carried on ; 
 for in the dark, plants give out carbon ; and this may be one 
 reason why plants grown in the dark have little or no charcoal in 
 their substance. It does not appear, however, that any of the 
 scentless products given out by plants are injurious to human 
 beings ; because those who live among accumulated plants are 
 not less healthy than others ; though many persons feel dislike 
 and even pain from the odors of particular plants, in a way not 
 very easily accounted for. 
 
 On the Continent in general, and in France and Germany in 
 particular, flowers of all sorts, but particularly the most fragrant, 
 are admitted, into the saloons, chambers., and even bed rooms of 
 people of all classes ; and they, rather than complain of any ill 
 2fiects arising from their presence, complain more of the difficulty 
 of procuring them in sufficient abundance. The flowers most in 
 demand for the chambers of the French and Germans are, oranges, 
 jasmine, carnations, honey-suckle, mignonette, olive, rocket, rose, 
 violet, wall-flower, rosemary, stock, lavender, savory, oleander, 
 hyacinth, lilac, syringa, heliotrope, narcissus, &c, all sweet-smeli 
 
90 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 ing flowers ; and these they indulge in to a veiy considerable 
 extent. 
 
 We may safely conclude, then, that plants admitted into rooms 
 to the extent that they are in general, can produce no effect in- 
 jurious to the health of persons in general, but, on the contrary, 
 ■will afford amusement to the mind and exercise to the body, both 
 of which are so necessary towards the enjoyment of good health. 
 The mind will be agreeably exercised in contemplating the beaut 
 of the flowers, but more so still if the study of their respectiv. 
 parts, natures and structures, in a botanical or physiological point 
 of view, be at the same time attended to. An agreeable and 
 rational exercise will be provided for the body, if the proprietor, 
 particularly if of the softer sex, take the entire management of hw 
 little Window Garden into her own hands. 
 
DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 91 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 
 
 jEFORE entering on a description of this apparatus, the 
 circumstances under which it was discovered may be 
 briefly adverted to. Mr. Ward, the gentleman to whom 
 we are indebted for the discovery, is a surgeon, residing in Well- 
 close Square, London. From his earliest youth Mr. Ward has 
 been attached to botanical pursuits ; but living in a densely popu- 
 lated neighborhood, surrounded with manufactories, and enve- 
 loped in the smoke of London in its very worst form, he had been 
 compelled to give up the cultivation of plants, until the following 
 simple incident seemed to point out a mode by which he could 
 follow his favorite amusement with some degree of success. He 
 had buried the chrysalis of a sphinx in some moist mould, which 
 was inclosed in a glass bottle covered with a top. In watching 
 the bottle from day to day, he observed that when exposed to 
 the warmth of the sun the moisture rose from the mould, and 
 became condensed on the inner surface of the glass, and again 
 fell back upon the mould during the night, thus keeping up a 
 continual moisture in the atmosphere within the glass ; he also ob- 
 served about a week prior to the final change of the insect, a 
 seedling fern and grass appear on the surface of the mould. 
 A.fter having secured the insect, Mr. Ward set himself to observe 
 
 * The materials for this paper are chiefly from Chambers's Edinburgh 
 Journal, with some slight additions from Mr. Ellis's paper read to the Bo- 
 tanical Society of Edinburgh. 
 
92 
 
 the development of these plants in this confined situation. He 
 placed the bottle outside the window of his study, where the 
 plants continued for several years to exhibit a healthy vegetation, 
 suggesting at the same time further experiments, which have led 
 to a most extraordinary, result, when we consider, that by this 
 simple application of the laws of nature as regards atmosphere, 
 the most forbidding local circumstances may be overcome, and 
 that any person, whether inhabiting the most humble or the most 
 splendid dwelling, provided it be freely exposed for a few hours 
 every day to the sun's light, has it in his power to rear and cul- 
 tivate a miscellaneous collection of plants, to enjoy the beauty of 
 their appearance, and to watch their progress through all the 
 stages of their growth, at an expense so insignificant as to be 
 within the means of every man even in very moderate circum- 
 stances. 
 
 To do this he must provide an apparatus consisting of a box, 
 a stand, and a glass roof, of a size according to his desires and 
 means. We shall suppose one is wanted of a small size to stand 
 in a window in an apartment of limited dimensions. The stand, 
 
 we will suppose, is one foot ten inches in height, the box whic 
 is to contain the mould eight inches and a half, and the glass 
 frame one foot seven inches and a half ; — in all four feet two in- 
 
DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 
 
 93 
 
 uies in heigVit my ehree feet in length and a foot and a half in 
 breath. If elegance is aimed at, the box should be made cf 
 mahogany, and sut ported on four legs, furnished with movable 
 castors; the box which is to contain the soil, eight and a half in- 
 ches in height, should be made of well-seasoned St. Domingo 
 mahogany, steeped in Kyan's composition, for a fortnight ; the 
 sides, one and a quarter inches thick, inhered and dove-tailed, to- 
 gether at the corners. The bottom of the box should be Hon- 
 duras mahogany, one inch thick, formed of numerous small pieces, 
 
 framed and flush-paneled, and arranged so as best to resist the 
 yielding of the wood. To give it greater strength, two cross 
 pieces or ties stretch from side to side at equal distance from 
 each other; these are dove-tailed on each side, thus dividing the 
 box into three compartments, but leaving open spaces under the 
 
94 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 ties and holes through their centers to permit the moisture to per^ 
 colate freely tt rough the whole of the mould. The bottom being 
 properly fitted, the sides are fixed to it with brass nails — no iron 
 being used in any part. When completed and filled with plants, 
 the apparatus appears something like the cut on p. 93. 
 
 At the upper edge of the box a groove is sunk to receive the 
 lower edge of the glass roof which rests securely in it. This 
 groove is lined with brass ; its inner lip is one sixteenth of an 
 inch lower than the outer, and at each end is a notch one fifth of 
 an inch only above the bottom of the groove to allow the con- 
 densed moisture which trickles down the inside of the glass to 
 flow back into the mould. 
 
 The frame-work cover of which we have now to speak is made 
 of brass, with a door on one side, made to fit close. The glass 
 used for it may be of flattened crown-glass ; that for the dooi 
 should be plate-glass. The panes must be fitted in the frames 
 with great care, and with a putty specially made for the purpose, 
 which should, when dry, receive three coats of paint. Along the 
 top of the roof, hooks or brass rods may be placed, from which 
 small pots may be suspended. The whole of the frame-work 
 should be well fitted, and nicely put together, so as to preclude 
 as far as possible all interchange between the air in the case and 
 that in the room. 
 
 We now come to the preparation fcr the plants. Lay the 
 Dottom of the box with pieces of broken earthenware, to a depth 
 of two inches, as an open subsoil. Next, lay a stratum of turfy 
 loam one inch deep, and fill in the remainder of the space with 
 soil, composed of equal portions of peat and loam, mixed with 
 about orie-twentieth part of rough white sand, free from iron 
 The artificial garden-plot is now ready to receive the plants. 
 Plant these in the usual manner, and then shower over them, with 
 a fine iglo watering-pot, from three to four gallons of water, till 
 
DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 95 
 
 the soil be pretty well saturated, and the liquid begins to run off 
 by the two openings in the bottom. After draining thus for 
 twenty-four hours, cork up the holes, place the glass-case on the 
 box, and the operation will be finished. 
 
 After the first preparation, the plants require little or no care ; 
 the case need only be opened for the removal of dead leaves, 01 
 for a little trimming, when required. Plants in open flower-pot? 
 are exposed to the vicissitudes of change of climate, and require 
 constant watering ; but the plants in these cases seem to be in- 
 dependent of any change of temperature in the air, and water 
 themselves. The moisture rises by the sun's influence from the 
 moistened earth, cherishes the leaves of the plants in its aerial 
 condition, and during the cool of night falls to the earth again 
 like rain or dew. In this manner there is a constant succession 
 of rising and falling of moisture, in imitation of the great processes 
 of nature, daily going on m the fields around us. The plant-case 
 is a little world in itself, in which vegetation is supported solely 
 by the resources originally communicated to it. 
 
 Not the least remarkable part in the economy of the case is 
 the preservation of atmospheric purity. To all who reflect for 
 the first time on this subject, it will seem incomprehensible how 
 the plants can possibly thrive and blossom without the occasional 
 interchange of fresh air with the atmosphere. This certainly does 
 appear extraordinary, yet it is ascertained by experiment that no 
 such reinvigoration is requisite. To account for the phenomena, 
 it will be necessary to explain the constitution of atmospheric air, 
 and the means adopted by nature for its purification. 
 
 Air consists of three gases in close mechanical union — nitrogen, 
 oxygen and carbonic acid, in the proportion of about 79 of nitro- 
 gen, 20 oxygen, and 1 of carbonic acid, in 100 parts of pure air. 
 In this mixed composition, the essential element for the support 
 of respiration in both animals and plants, and also for combustion, 
 
96 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 is the oxygen, the nitrogen being little else than a diluent tc 
 modify the strength of the oxygen. It was long believed by men 
 of science that plants possessed the power of exuding oxygen, 
 and so formed a prime agent for restoring vitiated air to purity. 
 Later investigations, however, chiefly by French chemists, have 
 made it evident that plants have no such power, unless when 
 placed under the influence of the sun's rays, or, in other words, 
 that solar light is the grand cleanser of the atmosphere, and with- 
 out which both plants and animals languish and die. With 
 respect to plants in particular, it is ascertained that, while inhaling 
 oxygen and expiring carbonic acid, their leaves possess the 
 remarkable property, in conjunction with the sun's light, of 
 re- transforming the carbonic acid into oxygen. At night, when 
 the light of day has departed, the expired carbonic acid may be 
 detected in the neighborhood of plants ; and hence one cause of 
 injury to health by breathing night air ; but when the morning 
 sun again bursts upon the scene, a great chemical process com- 
 mences in the atmosphere — the carbonic acid is decomposed, 
 oxygen is evolved, and all nature rejoices in a recreation of its 
 appropriate nourishment. 
 
 A question will here readily occur — what species of plants are 
 best adapted for these domestic greenhouses ? We are fortu- 
 nately enabled to answer this inquiry by referring to a learned 
 paper on the subject by Mr. Ellis, which was read to the Botani- 
 cal Society of Edinburgh, January 13, 1839, and afterwards 
 published in the Gardener's Magazine, and also as a separate 
 pamphlet. According to this gentleman's statement, the plants 
 most suitable are " those which partake largely of a cellular 
 structure, and possess a succulent character, and especially those 
 which have fleshy leaves ; whilst, on the contrary, the continued 
 humidity is unfavorable to the development of flowers of most 
 exogenous plants, except such as naturally grow in moist and 
 shady situations." Plants, therefore, which have to grow and 
 
DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 
 
 97 
 
 bloom in cavernous and moist situations, or in moist and warm 
 climates, are best adapted for these cases. However, within this 
 class of vegetables there are many beautiful and highly luxuriant 
 plants, which it would afford no small pleasure to contemplate. 
 The following is a list of plants from various countries, which 
 were set in a box, under Mr. Ellis's directions, and examined from 
 nine to twelve months afterwards : 
 
 BOTANICAL NAMES. 
 
 Chamae'rops humilis 
 
 Centiana verna 
 
 j?diantum Capillus Veneris 
 Primula farinosa 
 
 Primula scotica 
 
 Ferbascum Mycont 
 -jfndrosace villosa 
 Chamae'rops Palmetto 
 Dionae'a Muscipula 
 Sarracenia purpurea 
 
 Epigae'a repens 
 Testudinaria elephantipes 
 ji'loe retusa 
 .Rhododendron chrysanthum 
 
 Chamaecistus 
 Cycas revoluta 
 2Vepenth.es distillatoria 
 Cypripedium venustum in- 
 
 signe 
 Agave geminiflora 
 =*Goodyera discolor 
 *£chinocactus multiplex 
 ^peruviana 
 
 myriacantha 
 *formosa 
 
 O'ttoni 
 
 Candida 
 Epiphyllum truncatum 
 Cere us flagelliformis 
 Lycopodium stoloniferum 
 
 Those marked thus * are growing in fancy pots, and suspended from 
 the roof of the plant-case. 
 
 5 
 
 COUNTRY. REMARKS. 
 
 Italy, Sicily, Spain Increased l-4th its original 
 
 England 
 
 Flowered, but no difference 
 
 
 in size 
 
 England 
 
 Increased l-8th 
 
 Scotland 
 
 Flowered ; atmosphere ra- 
 
 
 ther damp for it 
 
 Scotland 
 
 Flowered ; atmosphere ra- 
 
 
 ther damp for it 
 
 Scotland 
 
 Increased l-8th 
 
 Scotland 
 
 Flowered ; not very healthy 
 
 Carolina 
 
 Increased l-3d 
 
 Carolina 
 
 Made l-8th 
 
 Carolina 
 
 Increased 4 times its origi- 
 
 
 nal size 
 
 Carolina 
 
 Increased one-half 
 
 Cape of Good 
 
 Hope Made a shoot 10 inches long 
 
 Cape of Good 
 
 Hope Made 1 -3rd, showing flower 
 
 Siberia 
 
 Increased one-half [spiket 
 
 Austria 
 
 Increased l-3d 
 
 China 
 
 Increased l-8th* 
 
 Ceylon 
 
 Increased 2-3ds 
 
 Nepal 
 
 Increased l-5th 
 
 Nepal 
 
 Increased l-4th 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Increased l-3d 
 
 Mexico 
 
 No perceptible difference 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Increased one-half 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Increased one-half 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Increased one-half 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Increased l-3d 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Increased l-4th 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Increased one -half 
 
 Brazil 
 
 Increased 2-3ds 
 
 Peru 
 
 Increased one-half 
 
 Cuba 
 
 Very luxuriant 
 
98 LADIES 7 FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 The alternate action of vitiation and purification is emphatically 
 described as follows by Mr. Ellis, in the pamphlet before us : — 
 " Under a bright sunshine, the two processes by which carbonic 
 acid is alternately formed and decomposed go on simultaneously ; 
 and their necessary operation, in as far as regards the condition 
 of the air, is that of counteracting each other. Hence, though 
 both may be continually exercised in favorable circumstances, the 
 effects of neither on the atmosphere can be ascertained by ordi 
 nary means ; and, consequently, though, in the experiments of 
 De Saussure with common air, the production and decomposition 
 of carbonic acid by plants in sunshine must have been continually 
 going on, yet, in all the analysis which he made, the air was 
 found unchanged, either in purity or volume ; in other words, the 
 processes of formation and decomposition of this acid gas exactly 
 counterbalanced each other. 
 
 " Of the two processes which have now been described (con- 
 tinues our authority), each may be considered as in its nature and 
 purpose quite distinct from the other ; hence their efforts may be 
 readily distinguished ; neither do they necessarily interfere, when 
 actually working together. The first or deteriorating process, in 
 which oxygen gas is consumed, goes on at all times and in all 
 circumstances when vegetation is active. It requires always a 
 suitable temperature in which to display itself ; and when that • 
 temperature falls below a certain point, which is very variable in 
 regard to different plants, the process is more or less completely 
 suspended, again to be renewed when the temperature shall re- 
 turn. This conversion of oxygen into carbonic acid is as neces- 
 sary to the evolution of the seed as to the growth of the plant, 
 and is all that is required for germination. But the plant requires 
 something more ; for if light be excluded, vegetation proceeds 
 imperfectly, and the plant does not then acquire its proper color 
 and other active properties which it ought to have. The chief 
 
DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 99 
 
 organs by whi:n the consumption of oxygen gas is effected are 
 the leaves ; and its purpose, in great part at Last, seems to be 
 that of producing some necessary change in the sap during its 
 transmission through those organs, on its way from the vessels of 
 the wood to those of the inner bark, whereby it may be rendered 
 fit for the purposes of nutrition and growth. In its nature and 
 object, therefore, as well as in the specific change which it pro- 
 duces in the air, this process closely resembles the function of 
 respiration in animals, and may thus with propriety be deemed a 
 physiological process. The second, or purifying process, in which 
 oxygen gas is evolved, differs in all respects from that which has 
 just been described. It is in a great measure independent of 
 temperature ; at least it proceeds in temperatures too low to sup- 
 port vegetation, provided light be present — an agent not required 
 for germination, nor essential to vegetable development. The 
 organs by which this process acts on the air are, as before, the 
 leaves ; not, however, by changing the qualities of the sap in the 
 vessels of those organs, but by producing changes in the chromule, 
 or colorable matter, in their cells, to which it imparts color and 
 other active properties. In doing this, it does not convert the 
 oxygen gas of the air into carbonic acid, but, by decomposing that 
 acid gas, restores to the air the identical portion of oxygen of 
 which the former process had deprived it. The former process, 
 carried on by the agency of the oxygen gas of the air, was essen- 
 tial to living action, and affected the well-being of the whole 
 plant ; that exercised by the agency of light is not necessary to 
 life, is local, not general in its operation, and is capable of pro- 
 ceeding in circumstances and under conditions incompatible -vith 
 living action. By withdrawing the air altogether, or depriving it 
 of oxygen gas, vegetation soon ceases through the whole plant ; 
 but the exclusion of light from any part of the plant affects that 
 j part only ; and even the total exclusion of that agent only de* 
 
100 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 prives the plant of certain properties necessary to its perfection, 
 but not essential lo its life. These differences in the processes by 
 which oxygen gas is alternately consumed and evolved, during 
 the vegetation of plants in sunshine, are so manifest, both in their 
 nature and effects, as to satisfy the ascription of a name to th6 
 latter process distinct from that given to the former. It might, 
 perhaps, be denominated the chemical process, in contradistinc- 
 tion to that named physiological. 
 
 " It would contribute much, we think, to simplify our inquiries 
 concerning vegetation, to bear in mind these distinctions ; to con- 
 sider the one process as accomplished by the agency of the air, 
 and essential fcTthe life and growth of the plant ; the other, as 
 subordinate, depending on the agency of light, and though neces- 
 sary to the perfection of vegetation, yet not essential to its exist- 
 ence. In this manner each process may be followed out sepa- 
 rately, both in regard to its immediate effects and remoter con- 
 sequences, without clashing with the other ; and the apparently 
 discordant and even contradictory phenomena which on a first 
 view they seem to exhibit, may be reconciled, and considered, not 
 less in theory than in fact, as conspiring together to form one 
 harmonious and perfect wnole." 
 
 After these explanations, little need be added respecting the 
 supply of pure air to domestic greenhouses. The deterioration 
 of the atmosphere in the case is daily counteracted by an oppo- 
 site process of purification, so that amidst the vicissitudes of per- 
 petual change, the air is maintained in a state of nearly uniform 
 composition and purity, and serves over and over again for all the 
 purposes of vegetation. It may, however, be stated, to prevent 
 misconception, that the more pure the air of the apartment, the 
 plants will have the better chance of thriving, because there must 
 necessarily be an interchange to some extent betwixt the air of 
 the room and the case, in consequence of the daily expansion 
 
DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 
 
 101 
 
 from heat, and nightly condensation from cold. This interchange 
 will be effected by the minute crevices in the apparatus, and 
 therefore requires no special provision. 
 
102 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 MONTHLY NOTICES. 
 
 RECAPITULATION of the work which each month 
 presents to the gardener's notice will be useful. By 
 occasionally glancing over the Monthly Notices, the me- 
 mory is refreshed ; and it will be found that even the three winter 
 months allow the young gardener no remission from labor. 
 There is something to be done in every week in the year — some- 
 thing to be attended to, which amuses the mind, interests the 
 imagination, and benefits the general tone of mental and physical 
 health. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Let your lawn and grass walks be kept neat and smooth, by 
 rolling, this month ; and if any part of the grounds require fresh 
 turf, this is the season for cutting and laying it down. If you 
 live in the neighborhood of a common, that is the best ground 
 for cutting turf, as the herbage is short, and free from nettles, 
 docks, &c. Lay it down firm and even, allowing for the sinking 
 of the newly-laid earth, about an inch or two. Roll it well, after 
 having laid down the turf. 
 
 Keep the gravel walks also from weeds and moss, and roll 
 them in dry weather. If you attempt to roll gravel in wet wea- 
 ther, the gravel clings to the roller. 
 
 Dig the clumps or spots where you mean to plant evergreens, 
 in February and March, that the ground may be trenched in 
 
MONTHLY NOTICES. 103 
 
 readiness. The frost of this month will render newly-dug earth 
 more friable, and the snow will enrich it. 
 
 If the weather is very settled and mild, you may still plant 
 out hardy deciduous shrubs, such as sweetbriars, double 
 bramble, double-blossomed cherry, dwarf almond, jasmines, 
 honeysuckles, roses, lilacs, laburnums, guelder rose, Spiraea frutex, 
 mezereons, &c. Transplant each shrub with a good ball of earth 
 round its roots. 
 
 Prune flowering shrubs now, where they require it, with a 
 sharp knife, not with shears. When I say " flowering shrubs," 
 I do not mean shrubs in flower, but shrubs that do flower. 
 
 Transplant suckers from the hardy flowering shrubs, if they 
 have not been done before. Take them up with good roots, and 
 support them neatly with stakes. 
 
 Cuttings of young shoots of hardy deciduous shrubs may be 
 planted in mild weather, to root, and form good plants in the 
 autumn. Layers may be also formed. 
 
 Protect all the choicer kinds of flowering shrubs, and all cut- 
 tings of every kind, from severe frosts, by spreading litter over 
 them. 
 
 Plant tulips now — always providing the weather is mild — to 
 blow late in the year ; but they will not be so handsome as those 
 which were planted again in September and October. 
 
 Plant any ranunculuses, anemones, &c, you may have out of 
 the ground, to come in late blowing ; but, like the tulips, they 
 will not bear such fine blooms. Protect everything from severe 
 weather, as well as you can, this month, particularly your choicer 
 sorts of bulbs, and tuberous-rooted perennials. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 February is the first spring month, and the parterre will begin 
 to make gradual approaches to gaiety and life. The anemones. 
 
104 ladies' flowek gakdener. 
 
 hepaticas, <fcc, will now bud and flower, if the weather is genial ; 
 and the crocus and snowdrop will put forth their blooms to meet 
 the sun on his returning march. ^ 
 
 About the end of this month, you may begin to sow the hardy 
 annuals. I prefer April, but it may not be ccnvenient always to 
 wait so long ; therefore sow now the seeds of hawkweed, lavatera, 
 Venus's looking-glass, Venus's navelwort, candytuft, larkspurs, 
 lupines, convolvulus, flos Adonis, dwarf lychnis, nigelia, annual 
 sunflowers, <fcc. 
 
 This month, you may plant and transplant, fearlessly, all hardy, 
 fibrous-rooted flowering perennials and biennials, such as saxifrage, 
 gentianella, hepaticas, violets, primroses of all sorts, polyanthuses, 
 double daisies, thrift, &c. ; rose campions, rockets, campanulas, 
 sweet-williams, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, carnations, pinks, 
 monk's-hood, perennial asters and sunflowers, &c. 
 
 Plant cuttings of roses, honeysuckles, and jasmines. 
 
 If the weather is mild, you may transplant many kinds of 
 evergreen shrubs, such as phillyreas, alaternuses, laurels, laurus- 
 tinus, pyracanthas, cistuses, &c. Let there be a ball of earth 
 round their roots, when you take them out of the ground. 
 
 If box edging is required, plant it now ; water it, and the plants 
 will soon root. 
 
 Dig the borders, carefully and lightly, with your garden fork ; 
 make the garden look neat, and free from weeds ; clear away 
 dead leaves ; sweep the lawn and walks ; and let spring advance 
 in its proper order. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Now plant away. Evergreens cannot be moved at a better 
 period. Deciduous flowering shrubs may also be still planted, 
 such as Althaea frutex, syringas, roses, honeysuckles, mezereons, 
 
MONTHLY NOTICES. 105 
 
 sumach, labu v Qums, lilacs, jasmines, candleberry myrtles, guelder 
 roses, &c. 
 
 Where the borders require filling up, the following plants may 
 still be moved, but do it early in this month : — ■ 
 
 Lychnises, campanulas, Canterbury bells, tree primroses, 
 rockets, sweet-williams, wallflowers, columbines, monk's-hood, 
 rose campions, perennial asters and sunflowers, foxgloves, <fcc. 
 
 Sow perennial and biennial flower seeds about the last week 
 iu this month. Stake your hyacinths, when*the flower stems are 
 tall. 
 
 Plant out layered carnations of last year, into the places where 
 they ought to remain. 
 
 Give fresh earth to any plants in pots, such as carnations, pinks, 
 auriculas, double sweet-williams, double stock gillyflowers, rock- 
 ets, &c. 
 
 Sow annuals of all hardy kinds. 
 
 Transplant any hardy roses, which you may wish should blow 
 late in the year. 
 
 Plant box, for edgings, still ; and roll the lawn and grass walks. 
 
 Transplant any tenderer kinds of annuals which you may have 
 been at the pains of raising in, or procuring from, a hot-bed. 
 
 Keep the garden quite free from weeds and dead leaves. 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Now place sticks to every plant or stalk requiring support. 
 Fix the sticks, or light iron rods, firmly in the ground ; and tie 
 the stems to each stick neatly, in two or three places. 
 
 Some evergreens may yet be * removed, as laurels, laurustinus, 
 Portugal laurel, cistuses, arbutus, magnolias, pyracanthas, &c. 
 
 Propagate auriculas, by slipping off their suckers and offsets, 
 
 this month. 
 
 5* 
 
106 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 Sow carnation and polyanthus seeds still. Sow, also, perennial 
 and biennial seeds. 
 
 Where any perennial or biennial fibrous-rooted flowers are 
 wanted, transplant them only in the first week of this month, and 
 they must have each a good ball of earth attached to them ; but 
 this work should be completed in February, or March at farthest. 
 
 Every sort of annual may now be sown. 
 
 Take care of your hyacinths, tulips, ranunculuses, and ane- 
 mones now, for they will be hastening into bloom. 
 
 Place your auriculas, hyacinths, &c, which may be in pots, in 
 a sheltered place, during heavy rains or winds ; and shelter those 
 flowers which are in the borders as well as you can. Trim them 
 from dead leaves. 
 
 Keep your lawn and grass walks nicely mown and rolled, and 
 your borders free from weeds and rubbish. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings. 
 
 Propagate double wall-flowers by slips of the young shoots of 
 the head. 
 
 Sow annuals for succession ; such as sweet-peas, nasturtiums, 
 lavatera, lupines, flos Adonis, &c. 
 
 Take up those hyacinths, tulips, &c. which have done flower- 
 ing, and dry them in the shade to put away. 
 
 Weeds grow quickly now : hoe them up wherever you see 
 them. Support all flowers with sticks ; train them upright. Clear 
 away all the dead leaves from your carnations, and gently stir 
 the earth round them with your smallest trowel. 
 
 Look round the borders now, and take off irregular shoots. 
 
MONTHLY NOTICES. 107 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Propagate carnations by layers and pipings. Propagate double 
 sweet-williams and pinks by layers and cuttings, or slips. 
 
 Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings of the 
 stalks. 
 
 Transplant the large annuals from the seedling bed to the 
 places where they are to remain. Let this be done in showery 
 weather, if possible. 
 
 Take up all bulbs, ranunculuses, and anemone roots, &c, as the 
 flowers and leaves decay. 
 
 Water the delicate plants, if the weather proves dry : give a 
 moderate watering every evening, but never in the heat of the 
 day. 
 
 Sow yet some hardy annuals, such as ten-week stocks, virgin 
 stock, &c. « 
 
 Plant out China-asters, Chinese hollyhocks, ten-week stocks, 
 large convolvolus, &c, but let each root have a ball of earth 
 round it. 
 
 Examine the perennial and biennial plants, to cut off all dead, 
 broken, or decaying shoots. Trim the African and French mari- 
 golds from their lower straggling shoots, that they may present a 
 neat, upright appearance. Trim the chrysanthemums, which are 
 apt to branch too near the root, and stake them neatly. 
 
 Plant out carnations and pink seedlings into their proper places. 
 • Keep everything just moderately moist, if there is a long 
 drought in this month. 
 
 JULY. 
 
 You may lay carnations and double sweet-williams still; but 
 tat it be done before the end of the second week in this month. 
 Propagate pinks by slips and pipings ♦ 
 
108 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 Transplant the seedling auriculas which were sown last year, 
 as also the seedling polyanthus. 
 
 Transplant the perennial and biennial seedlings which were not 
 done last month, to remain till October. 
 
 Take up all bulbs as fast as they decay their leaves. If this 
 month prove hot and dry, place your potted carnations in a shel- 
 tered situation, and keep them just moist. 
 
 Support flowering shrubs and plants, and cut away decayed 
 stems. Keep the borders clean. Mow the lawn and grass walks. 
 Plant autumnal bulbs. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 You may now begin to propagate some double-flowered and 
 approved fibrous-rooted plants the end of the month, if they have 
 done flowering — such, for instance, as the double rose campion, 
 catchfly, double scarlet lychnis, double rocket, double ragged 
 robin, bachelor's buttons, gentianella, polyanthuses, auriculas, &c. 
 
 Sow auricula and polyanthus seed on a warm, d<y day ; and 
 remove carnation layers to some place where they may remain 
 till October to gain strength. 
 
 Sow seeds of bulbs. 
 
 Sow anemone and ranunculus seed. 
 
 Remove all bulbs which have done flowering. 
 
 Cut and ' trim edgings of box. Clip holly, yew, and privet 
 hedges. 
 
 Gather flower seeds. 
 
 Plant autumnal bulbs, if any are still above ground, such au 
 colchicums, autumnal narcissus, amaryllis, and autumn crocus. 
 
 Trim the flower plants ; mow the lawn and grass walks, and 
 keep every department in neat order. 
 
MONTHLY NOTICES. 109 
 
 8EPTEMBER. 
 
 Transplant, in any moist or showery weather this month, the 
 perennial and biennial seedlings to their proper situations, with a 
 ball of earth round their roots. 
 
 Propagate fibrous-rooted plants. 
 
 Prepare the spots where you mean to deposit anemone and 
 ranunculus roots any time between the end of this month and the 
 3nd of October ; and dig all beds and borders which are vacant, 
 to prepare them also for receiving roots and plants next month. 
 
 Transplant peonies, flag irises, monk's-hood, fraxinella, and 
 such like plants, to part their roots and remove each root to its 
 destined position. 
 
 Transplant evergreens. 
 
 Plant cuttings of honey-suckles, and other shrubs. 
 
 Plant hyacinth and tulip roots for early spring bloom. 
 
 Plant box by slips or roots. 
 
 Mow grass lawn and walks. Clear away flower stems, and 
 trim flowering plants. 
 
 Sow seeds of bulbous flowers, if not done last month. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 This i? a very busy month ; for the garden should now ba 
 cleared and arranged for the season. 
 
 Transplant all sorts of fibrous-rooted perennial and biennial 
 plants now where they are intended to remain. 
 
 Put 'the bulbs into the ground again ; and transplant the 
 different layered plants into their respective places. 
 
 Prune flowering shrubs of all sorts. Plant and transplant all 
 hardy deciduous shrubs, and their suckers. 
 
110 ladies' flower gardener. 
 
 Dig up and part the roots of all flowers which require so doing, 
 and replant them. 
 
 Plant cuttings of honeysuckles, laurels, &c. 
 
 Take up the roots of dahlias, and put them carefully away till 
 May. 
 
 Trim evergreens. 
 
 Plant box edgings ; cut away the long, sticky roots, and trim 
 the tops even. ^ 
 
 Mow grass walks and lawns, and weed gravel walks. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Prepare compost for a new year by raking dead leaves, soil, 
 sand, &c, in a heap, to turn well over occasionally. Pour the 
 brine, soap-suds, &c, from the house over it. 
 
 Transplant still all hardy kinds of flowering shrubs, suckers, &c. 
 
 Clear the borders from dead annuals, leaves, stumps, &c. ; 
 shelter the choice bulbs and double-flowering plants. 
 •. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Take care of every thing. Protect the more delicate roots 
 from severe frost, by strewing ashes, sand, or litter over them. % 
 Prune shrubs, and dig between them. 
 
 If the weather is open, you may still plant hardy sorts of 
 flowering shrubs. 
 
INDEX 
 
 AUONIIES 
 
 Alaturnus, Layers of ^ . 
 Amelioration of Soils . . 
 Amaryllis 
 Annuals 
 
 self-sown 
 
 to sow . . • 
 
 how to water 
 
 when to sow 
 
 how to transplant 
 
 to trim 
 
 List of less tender . 
 
 List of hardy . . 
 Ants, to destroy . . 
 Anemone 
 April, List of Perennials for 
 
 Monthly Notices of 
 Arrangement of Shrubs 
 
 of Flowers 
 Arabian Jasmine . «- 
 Arbutus 
 Arbor Vitae 
 
 Arsenic Water, to use ' . . 
 Aspect for Flowers 
 Auriculas 
 
 Compost for 
 Austrian Briar 
 August, Monthly Notice for 
 
 List of Perennials for 
 Avroncator 
 Ayrshire Rose 
 
 33,34,45 
 
 74 
 .. 21 
 4C 
 
 20,56 
 57 
 53 
 58 
 58 
 58 
 60 
 60 
 61 
 25 
 47 
 22 
 105 
 69 
 19 
 67 
 70 
 74 
 59 
 14 
 
 30,45 
 14 
 
 . 65 
 108 
 
 . 23 
 16 
 
 , 66 
 
112 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Beds, planting 
 
 .. 
 
 .. 
 
 • • • • 
 
 20 
 
 Beds of Roses 
 
 
 
 , . # # . 
 
 .. 65 
 
 Belladonna 
 
 
 • • 
 
 • c • • 
 
 39 
 
 Biennials 
 
 
 
 • • • • • 
 
 .. 20 
 
 Propagation of 
 
 .. 
 
 . . 
 
 • • • • 
 
 . . 48, 52 
 
 Seeds, when to sow 
 
 
 
 > • • • • 
 
 .. 49 
 
 to shelter . . 
 
 . . 
 
 • * 
 
 • • • • 
 
 52 
 
 when to transplant 
 
 
 
 • • •• 
 
 .. 34 
 
 List of hardy 
 
 
 . . 
 
 • • •• 
 
 49 
 
 Bligh. 
 
 
 
 • "•• •• 
 
 .. 2G 
 
 Brine 
 
 
 . . 
 
 . . . . 
 
 . . 50, 5] 
 
 Bulbs 
 
 
 
 • • •• 
 
 .. 36 
 
 soil for 
 
 
 , . 
 
 • • • • 
 
 36 
 
 when to take up 
 
 
 
 1 • • • . 
 
 .. 37 
 
 autumn-flowering 
 
 
 .. 
 
 *• 
 
 37 
 
 Seed of 
 
 
 
 • • • . 
 
 .. 38 
 
 to replant . . 
 
 
 .. 
 
 • • .. 
 
 40 
 
 arrangement of . . 
 
 
 
 > .. .. 
 
 .. 40 
 
 List of 
 
 
 
 • • • • 
 
 41 
 
 Cabbage Rose 
 
 
 
 .. .. 
 
 .. 64 
 
 Camellia Japonica 
 
 
 . . 
 
 • • • • 
 
 71 
 
 Canterbury Bells 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 .. 50 
 
 Carnations 
 
 
 . . 
 
 • * • • 
 
 ..28,50,53 
 
 China Asters 
 
 
 
 • • • . 
 
 .. 56 
 
 to train 
 
 .. 
 
 .. 
 
 • • • • 
 
 60 
 
 Chrysanthemums 
 
 
 
 .. . . 
 
 .. 56 
 
 Cistus, Gum 
 
 
 .. 
 
 
 71 
 
 Clay, how to improve . . 
 
 
 
 .. .. 
 
 .. 13 
 
 Clarkias 
 
 
 
 • • • • 
 
 60 
 
 Climbing Rose 
 
 
 
 • • • • 
 
 .. 66 
 
 Colchicums, Soil for 
 
 >. 
 
 
 
 39 
 
 when to plant . . 
 
 
 
 .. 
 
 .. 40 
 
 Compost for Flowers 
 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Convolvulus 
 
 
 
 • • • • 
 
 .. 58 
 
 Creepers, as decorations 
 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 Crocus 
 
 
 
 . . 
 
 .. 37 
 
 autumnal, when to plant 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 Cuttings 
 
 
 
 
 .. 31 
 
INDEX, 
 
 113 
 
 Cutting, of Perennials 
 
 Protection for . . 
 
 of Shrubs, when to make 
 Dahlias 
 
 Daisies, double 
 Damask Rose 
 Dead leaves, to collect 
 Deciduous, term explained 
 
 Shrubs, List of 
 December, Monthly Notice for . 
 Devices for training Jasmine 
 Digging, when to be done 
 Domestic Greenhouses 
 Double-flowering Plants 
 
 to shelter 
 Dress, working 
 Earwigs, to destroy 
 Employment in Summer 
 Evergreens 
 
 Kow and when tc transplant 
 
 how to layer 
 
 to make Cuttings of 
 
 to prune 
 
 Remarks on 
 
 List of 
 February, Monthly Notice for . . 
 
 list of Perennials for 
 Fences against Hares and Rabbits 
 Fibrous root, term explained 
 Flowers, Aspect for 
 
 how to arrange 
 Flower Seeds, how to sow 
 
 self-sown, how to treat 
 Flowering Shrubs, how to plant 
 Fly, to destroy the Green . . 
 Gardening, remarks on 
 Gardens, notices of old English 
 Ciirden general remarks upon the 
 
114 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Garden, laying out a . . 
 
 Soil for 
 
 Compost for 
 
 Tools necessary for . . 
 
 Working Dress for 
 Gentian . . . . . . 
 
 Gentianella . . • . 
 
 Gillyflowers 
 
 Golden Rod 
 
 Gravel Walks 
 
 Green Fly, to destroy . . 
 
 Ground, management of 
 
 to prepare for Seeds 
 Gum Cistus 
 Guernsey Lily 
 
 Hand-glasses, substitute for . . 
 Hares, to protect against 
 Hepaticas 
 
 Herbaceous, term explained 
 Hollyhocks 
 Honesty 
 
 Honeysuckles, to increase . . 
 Hyacinths 
 
 Improvement of Soils 
 Irises 
 
 flag-leaved 
 Iron Rods for Flowers . . 
 
 Stakes for Roses 
 January, Monthly Notice for 
 
 list of Perennials for 
 Jasmines 
 
 to increase 
 
 to renew the Soil for 
 
 to prune 
 
 devices for training 
 Jonquils . . 
 July, Monthly Notice for 
 
 List of Perennials for 
 
INDEX. 
 
 115 
 
 June, Monthly Notice for . . . • 
 
 List of Perennials for . . 
 
 Knob-rooted Plants . . . . 
 
 Ladies' Garden Tools 
 
 working Dress . . . . 
 
 Lawn . . . . . . • . 
 
 Laurel ' . . 
 
 Laurel, Portugal 
 
 Laurestinas . . . . . • 
 
 Layering, when to be done 
 
 Layers of Biennials . . . . 
 
 of Evergreens 
 
 of Alaturnus, &c, when to be done 
 Lilies of the Valley 
 
 Management of 
 
 Orange 
 
 Guernsey and Belladonna 
 Linen as a covering, advantages of 
 List of Flowers for each month 
 
 hardy Perennials 
 
 Roses 
 
 hardy climbing ditto 
 
 bulbous and tuberous-rooted Flowers 
 
 hardy Biennials 
 London Pride 
 Lychnis . . . . . . . . 
 
 double scarlet 
 Lychnidea 
 March, Monthly Notice for 
 
 List, of Perennials for . . • . 
 
 Martagons . . . . . . 
 
 Marigolds . . . . . . . . 
 
 May, Monthly Notice for . . 
 
 List of Perennials for . . . • 
 
 Michaelmas Dais)' . , . . 
 
 Mignionette . . . . • . 
 
 Mildew 
 Monthly Rose 
 
116 
 
 INDIjJX. 
 
 Monthly Rose, noticed 
 
 Remarks on 
 Moss Roses 
 Narcissus . . . . . 
 
 yellow autumnal 
 Neatness essential in a Garden . . 
 Night Stock 
 November, Monthly Notice for 
 
 List of Perennials for 
 October, Monthly Notice for 
 
 List of Perennials for 
 Offsets of Perennials and Biennials 
 
 Bulbs 
 Oil paper frames 
 Orange Lilies 
 Orchis tribe 
 Pansies 
 
 Peonies . . 
 
 Perpetual Rose 
 Perennials 
 
 how to sow 
 
 now to propagate 
 
 how to divide 
 
 when to add soil to . . 
 
 list of hardy 
 Peisecarias 
 Pinks .. 
 
 general, management of . . 
 Pickle and Brine good for Flowers 
 Pipings, when to make 
 
 how to make 
 Phyllerias 
 Planting Beds 
 
 Shrubs, method of 
 Polyanthus 
 
 Portugal Laurel . . . . 
 
 Primroses 
 Pi orwgating Biennials .. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 117 
 
 Pyramid of Roses .. •• •• •• •• w 
 
 Pyracantha .. • •• •• •• ** • • ™ 
 
 oq 
 
 Qualities of Pinks . . • • • • • • • • *" 
 
 • 24 
 
 Rabbits, to guard against . . • • • • • • 
 
 Ranunculus .. •• •• •• 
 
 13 
 Remarks on Gardens . . . • •'• . • • • • 
 
 Rockets, double . . • • • • • • • * * *° 
 
 Rods, for Flowers, Iron . . • • • • • • * * ^ 
 
 Root-house, to construct a . . 
 
 71 
 Rhododendrons . . • • • • • • 
 
 Roses .. 
 
 monthly .. .. ■ 65 
 
 Remarks on 
 
 damask . . • • » * • • 
 
 ,, 64 
 
 cabbage . . . . • • • • 
 
 .... 64 
 moss • • • » • • • • 
 
 standard . . • • • • • • • ■ 
 
 double yellow . . • • • • • • 
 
 Austrian . . • . • « • • 
 
 perpetual, or four-season 
 
 Ayrshire . • • • • • • • • • 
 
 Lady Banks .. • • - 66 
 
 climbing . . • •'•'• • • ■ • 
 
 .,- .... 64 
 
 soil for 
 
 when and how to prune • • • • 
 
 * , .... 64 
 
 to layer 
 
 j- # .... 64 
 
 disease or . . 
 
 pyramids and beds of . . • • 
 
 v , f .... 66, 67 
 
 list of . • • • • 
 
 Rosa hybrida multiflora . . • • • • 
 
 Rustic stages . . • • • • • • 
 
 advantages of . . 
 Salt, observations on . . • • • • 
 
 water for cuttings . . • • • • * * 
 
 Sand, good effects of 
 
 a •] ... 30, 34 
 
 Saxifrage 
 
 Seed to sow, when and how, Perennials . . • , . 27, 2 
 Bulbs •• •• ' 31 
 
118 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Seed, Biennials . . 
 
 Annuals • • • • 
 
 how to prune . . 
 
 when to gather . • 
 
 Seedlings, when to remove 
 
 Pink and Carnation 
 Seedling-bed, to protect the 
 September, Monthly Notice for 
 
 List of Perennials for 
 Shrubs, arrangement of 
 
 how to plant 
 
 when to transplant . . 
 
 to make cuttings of • . 
 
 when to take suckers off 
 
 to prune . . . . 
 
 notices of several . . 
 
 list of deciduous 
 
 evergreen 
 Slipping, how to perform . . 
 Snails, to destroy 
 Snowdrops 
 
 Soapsuds, to use . . . . 
 
 Soils, improvement of . . 
 
 amelioration of 
 Stages, rustic 
 
 Staking plants . . .' 
 
 Stocks, ten-week ■ . . 
 
 Stock, gillillower . . 
 
 night 
 Stony ground, to manage 
 Sultan, white and purple . . 
 Sunflower, everlasting 
 Sweet Peas ' 
 
 fc> raise early 
 Sweet-williams 
 Thrift 
 
 Tools, Ladies' garden 
 Transplant Perennial and Biennials, when to 
 
INDEX. 
 
 119 
 
 Trees, to ornament the trunks of 
 
 
 18 
 
 Tuberous root, term explained . . • • 
 
 
 ,. 27 
 
 rooted Flowers . . . . . . 
 
 
 36 
 
 rooted Flowers and Bulbs, list of . . 
 
 r. 
 
 . 41 
 
 Tulips .. .. 
 
 .. 
 
 38 
 
 Veins' Looking-glass .. . . .* 
 
 ... 
 
 .« 59 
 
 Verbena, scarlet . . . . • • 
 
 • • • • 
 
 35 
 
 Violets . . . . . . • . • . 
 
 .. 
 
 ., 29 
 
 Wall-flowers .. .. •• •• 
 
 .. .. 
 
 51 
 
 Window Gardening .. •• •• •• 
 
 • a 
 
 ., 71 
 
3477 4