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ROSES 
 
 AND 
 
 ROSE CULTURE 
 
 WITH COLORED PLATES. 
 
 <X-ff6?X 
 
 STECHER LITHOGRAPHIC CO.. 
 
 ROCHESTER, N. Y. 
 
 C0PYR1CHTED lSy2. 
 
Roses and Rose Culture. 
 
 This little handbook is simply intended as an aid in selecting a few of the 
 many varieties of this queen of flowers, and to give a few brief and plain 
 directions in their cultivation and management so that lovers of this superb 
 flower may be successful with a few rather than fail with many. 
 
 Roses are cultivated for their bloom, and to have this in abundance your 
 plants or bushes must grow, for if your plants make no growth there is sure to 
 be no flowers ; so that the foundation of this success is to have good soil in 
 good condition, if not so naturally, it must be made so by artificial means. 
 The next requisite is good strong plants, properly planted and kept clean and 
 free from insect pests with, where needed, protection in the winter. 
 
 Roses will grow in any ordinary garden soil that is free from standing 
 water and that has plenty of sunlight, and better if some protection from bleak 
 and cutting winds, but to do well the soil should be such as would produce a 
 good crop of Indian corn. (Roses are partial to a dry loam.) It is true that 
 where a few plants are scattered on the lawn this cannot always be had but 
 where cultivated in a bed or border this can readily be secured and is by far 
 the most satisfactory way to cultivate roses, for then the ground can be 
 specially prepared for them and if attacked by insect enemies more easily kept 
 in check. 
 
 Nearly all the varieties are now grown on their own roots, from cuttings, 
 and it is only with the more feeble growers that there is any necessity for 
 budding them on the Manetta. 
 
 Planting.— Those that have been grown out of pots had best be planted 
 while in a dormant condition, either in the autumn and protected during the 
 first winter, or early in spring before growth commences. If plants are in 
 pots they can be transferred to the garden at any season, but this is best 
 performed early in the spring when the weather has become settled. In plant- 
 ing see that the earth is mellow and fine and firmly pressed against every root, 
 and closely pressed around the stem so as to exclude the air from the roots. 
 
Pruning. — This is one of the very important features in connection with 
 successful rose culture, and no matter how many directions are given or how 
 plainly they are written, some mistakes will be made, and it is only by a little 
 practical experience that this may be avoided. Briefly, then, all roses in a 
 dormant condition should be pruned, severely, at planting. It is folly to set 
 out roses leaving on all the last season's growth, for the plants having lost a 
 portion of their roots will be in no condition to thrive, and what little growth 
 is made will be sickly and weak. The shock of removal, which is unavoidable, 
 must be met by severe cutting back of the shoots and in some cases the entire 
 shoot or branch lemoved. Pruning afterwards may be performed in the 
 autumn or early in the spring. We prefer the latter if done before the buds 
 begin to start or the sap begins to flow, and this one rule will generally be safe 
 to follow. Try to have each plant symmetrical and well-shaped. Those of a 
 more delicate habit require severer pruning, while the strong, robust growers 
 will only require to have the shoots shortened and some few thinned out. If 
 the strong, robust growers are severely pruned a strong growth follows at the 
 expense of bloom. In addition to the spring pruning it is desirable to prune 
 the Hybrid Perpetuals at the close of blooming in June to induce the forma- 
 tion of flower buds through the season. It is advisable to remove the flowers 
 as soon as they begin to fade ; it weakens the plant to allow it to produce seed. 
 
 Manuring Roses. — Is very necessary, for we have said "without growth 
 you will have no flowers," but see that that which is thoroughly decomposed 
 only, comes in contact with the roots. Fresh manure may be spread upon the 
 surface late in the fall or early in the winter among the plants as a mulch, and 
 the decomposed part dug in among the plants early the following spring, being 
 careful to not mutilate the roots. 
 
 Insects and diseases of the rose. —These are not so numerous but that 
 they may easily be kept in check but of course they must have constant atten- 
 tion during the growing season, and when any of the enemies make their first 
 appearance use vigorous measures against them. 
 
 One of the most troublesome is the Green Fly or Aphis, now pretty well 
 known to all who grow roses. These appear on the foliage and suck the 
 juices of the plant, working on the tender shoots, and will in time, if 
 unchecked, destroy the vitality of the plant. Tobacco smoke, or when this 
 cannot be applied, a liquid made from the leaves or stems of tobacco with or 
 without quassia chips will be found effectual, and for lack of a syringe, may 
 be applied cold with a common whisk broom, sprinkling all the shoots that are 
 infested and this is best put on in the evening. Mildew, caused by sudden 
 atmospheric changes and long continued damp and cloudy weather, may be 
 kept in check by the use of sulphur. The foliage may first be sprinkled with 
 
water and then the sulphur applied, or it he put on early in the morning while 
 the dew is yet on the hushes. The Rose Hopper or Thrips, a small yellowish 
 white insect with transparent wings, is often a trouhlesome pest, feeding on the 
 under side of the foliage causing it to assume a sickly yellowish appearance. 
 These jump from one place to another and are not so easily destroyed, still 
 they may be entirely eradicated with powdered while hellebore, first sprinkliug 
 the foliage with water to cause it to stick. The application of powdered white 
 hellebore, to be found at any drug store, will be found a perfect remedy 
 against the Rose Slug, Leaf Roller or Caterpillar, but the latter may be kept 
 off by crushing between the finger and thumb whenever and as soon as seen. 
 All these remedies against insect pests should be applied early, as soon as per- 
 ceived, not wait till they increase so formidably and over run the entire garden. 
 When to Water. — If the ground is dry when planted in the spring, water 
 thoroughly so as to soak the earth down below the roots, and if hot or windy, 
 it may be well to shade for a few days. After this, much water is not required 
 unless the weather is unusually dry. Your roses will not thrive if kept too 
 wet, and planting should never be done when the the soil is muddy or soggy. 
 
 Hybrid Perpetuals, or Hybrid Remontants. 
 
 These we regard as the most beautiful aud valuable of all hardy roses. 
 They are admirably suited to garden culture, for beds and borders, and for 
 rose hedges. They luxuriate in a deep rich soil and, while regarded as hardy, 
 are benefitted by a mulching of leaves or strawy manure placed around their 
 roots on the approach of winter. In pruning cut back all the weakly shoots 
 and shorten the strong canes to a convenient leugth. They flower freely in 
 June and at intervals during the summer and fall. 
 
Roses in June, 
 {From Sweets With Flowers.) 
 
 But June is chiefly known by all, and sung by the poets, foi its roses. The 
 rose, the admitted queen of all tlowcrs, the embodiment of form and fragrance, 
 the symbol of love and beauty, is there a garden that does not contain one, or 
 is there a gardener who is satisfied with only one kind V The Prairie Roses 
 and the yellow Scotch lead the procession, followed rapidly by the long list of 
 Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas, Mosses and Summer bloomers. Can one 
 describe in cold words the majesty and magnificence of some of the hardy 
 Hybrids? The deep rich colorings of the Alfred Colomb, the open beauty of 
 the Magna Charta, the lovely tints of the Mad. Gabriel Luizet and La France, 
 or the prodigal luxuriance of Mad. Plantier, Coquette des Alps, and other 
 cluster Roses, or the sweet opening buds of the Mosses and that favorite of aU 
 gardens, the blood-red Gen. Jacqueminot, all appeal to our senses and defy 
 description with mere w r ords. It is the Roses with fragrance after all that are 
 preferred. The Jules Margottin, Mons. E. Y. Teas, Marie Baumann, Mrs. John 
 Laing, Alfred Colomb or La France will always hold their own against such 
 magnificent beauties as Mabel Morrison, Baroness Rothschild and others whose 
 loveliness and regal (pieenliness are not surpassed, but whose perfume is faint. 
 
 For personal decoration and for constant and general use the Hybrid Teas 
 and Ever-bloomers can be most relied upon, and they are a necessity for every 
 garden. 
 
 The Raising of fine Roses is not such a difficult task as many are disposed 
 to think, and no flower repays more generously the attention given to it. A 
 good garden bed, well drained and enriched by yearly additions of rotted 
 manure or some suitable fertilizer, is of course necessary, but the same may be 
 said of any plant. A bed of Tea Roses requires no more care or attention than 
 a bed of Asters, or Hardy Phlox, or Dahlias, and give blooms of the sweetest 
 fragrance and the loveliest color the eye can rest upon. Does one expect every- 
 thing for nothing ? Does not such rewards as these handsome blossoms amply 
 repay the trouble of weeding, fertilizing and keeping up a thrifty growth ? 
 Nor is it necessary to wait all summer as in the case of the Chrysanthemums for 
 the blossoms to appear. The buds form at once as soon as the plant has started 
 into growth, and the flowers continue to come all summer. Is it a wonder that 
 such a bed is a constant pleasure and delight ? It is not for a single season 
 either. With proper protection they will last from year to year even at the 
 extreme north. 
 
 If in doubt as to what kinds to select, and what to plant, it is best to leave 
 the selection to more experienced hands and profit by their experience, and get 
 the benefit of their knowledge. As to colors, there is a wide range from which 
 to choose — from the purest white to the deepest scarlet, from the richest yellow 
 to the loveliest salmon and pink. There should be enough of each shade to 
 form a mass of color, and there should be also a variety of color. Enhance the 
 beauty of one by the contrast of color in another. With reading and observa- 
 tion will conic the desire to try the different kinds either seen or read about, 
 and when obtained their peculiarities will be noticed, the manner of growth 
 observed. Probably some will be rejected as not suitable or not liked and 
 others retained as prime favorites. But in all this much pleasure will be exper- 
 ienced ; sw T eet and beautiful roses will be had for personal use and delight, and 
 gardening in its purest and highest sense will be enjoyed. 
 
A Bed of Roses, 
 From The Mayflower. 
 
 Iu the kingdom of good taste it is treason to say that any flower is as beau 
 tiful as the Queen Rose, and an amateur in planning his garden first of all 
 chooses a spot for his rose bed. 
 
 Situation. — It should be a warm sunny spot, sheltered from bleak winds, 
 but not completely shadowed by trees or buildings, for tree roots will impose 
 upon your roses and take away the nourishment of the soil which they need, 
 and the top will keep off sunshine. A building is not much better, but if it 
 screens the bed only from the evening sun, giving the benefit of the whole 
 morning's brightness, and you have no better place, it may do ; but set the 
 plants out four or five feet from the building, to say the least. A light fence is 
 the best wind break for arose bed. The roses will cling to it and make it beau- 
 tiful, while it has no roots to starve them, and not enough substance to shade 
 them unduly. Next best to this is a hedge. In the South where bleak winds 
 are not troublesome but hot suns are, these slight screens shield a rose bed some- 
 what from parching heat. 
 
 Soil. — Roses grow well in any ordinary garden soil that is rich and well 
 drained. They will not grow in a wet spot. If you cannot give them a home 
 that has good natural drainage then drain it artificially by sinking tiles to the 
 depth of four feet. If this is not expedient take out soil for two or three feet 
 in depth and fill in a drain of stones, bricks, etc., anything to give the water a 
 chance to percolate through, leaving the soil for your rose roots sweet and heal- 
 thy. After the drain is thrown in put back the soil, noting its character. 
 
 A rather heavy soil is better for roses than a light one, but it should not be 
 pure clay. Spade it up well to lessen its stiffness, work in a little sand to make 
 it porous, and give a heavy dressing of well decayed fertilizer to make it rich, 
 for roses must be well fed. Pulverize the soil finely and mix well by raking. 
 
 Planting. — The best iime for planting Hardy Roses is in autumn for Teas, 
 the early spring months are best in Northern localities. At the South, autumn 
 is the best time for planting all kinds, for all kinds are hardy there. The heavy 
 autumn rains coming on after planting settle the roots well in the soil, while 
 there is yet heat enough to make them grow so as to be well established by 
 spring, while this heat is not sufficient to dry or wither the tops. All roses 
 should be planted while dormant. 
 
 Roses on their own roots should be planted just as they stood in the nursery. 
 There is usually a dark earth line to go by— set even with this. Budded or 
 grafted roses must be set so that the junction of stock; and graft is two inches 
 below the surface of the soil. Right here let me advise the amateur not to buy 
 such roses. A skilled professional may manage them very well, but they are 
 usually tender, capricious sorts, weak in growth, and by and by the vigorous 
 root-nurse gets tired of playing with its vaulting, and sends up shoots of its 
 own, which means death to your choice weakling There are so many lovely 
 roses that grow readily on their own roots, we have no need for these. Keep 
 the roots of your roses in water till you are ready to plant them, then dig a hole 
 the required depth, set in the plant, spread out the roots naturally, fill in with 
 fine soil, and press it down firmly with hand or foot, water well and shade for 
 a day or two if the weather is warm and sunny. The distance apart for your 
 roses must be decided by their habit of growth. Strong growers will need a 
 distance of three feet, weaker ones only one or two. 
 
Pruning. — When you set your roses notice the proportion which the root 
 bears to the top, and if there are any bruised or broken roots begin by priming 
 them away. Large roses need heavy pruning both root and top ; the top that 
 the sap may not have too many buds to feed, and the large thick roots, that 
 they may be made to send out fibrous feeding roots. A rose that has a heavy 
 top and not much root must have the top pruned down to only a few buds 
 which the roots can feed sufficiently. Make the cut as near horizontal as is 
 possible, and if the stem bleeds cover with wax. 
 
 General rose pruning should be done late in autumn while the plants are 
 dormant. Prune for shapeliness of plant and promotion of bloom buds, instead 
 of slashing recklessly. The old rule and the best one is, " for weak growing 
 delicate plants severe pruning; for vigorous, strong ones, shorten the branches 
 only a little, but thin them out well." To make Hybrid Perpetuals bloom twice 
 in summer, give them a second pruning after their first bloom has fallen in 
 June. 
 
 Insects, Mulches, etc. — Try showering repeatedly with cold water for 
 insects first. The roses love it, you notice how they grow in a rainy season. 
 If this does not dislodge the insects shower with tobacco water once or twice a 
 week. None of the insect tribe can stand this. For mildew, sprinkle lightly 
 with Hour of sulphur. 
 
 Mulch your rose bed heavily with manure in the autumn, and for winter 
 protection cover with evergreen boughs. I prefer to stack these about tall 
 roses rather than bend them down. Small ones they can be laid over. In hot 
 summer weather give a light mulch of strawy manure to keep the soil from 
 drying out too rapidly. The rains will wash its nutriment down to the roots. 
 Stir the soil frecmently about the roots of your roses and do not plant annuals 
 among them. They must have all the nourishment for themselves if you want 
 them to do their best. Do not let them blossom too much the first year. Let 
 them gather strength into root and stem for next summer when they will make 
 a grander display of beauty. 
 
 Insect Enemies of the Rose. 
 
 The rose slug is the young or larva of a four-winged saw-fly. It eats the 
 pulp of the leaves, giving the foliage a scorched appearance. The eggs hatch 
 in about a fortnight. They become full-grown in three weeks ; they have a 
 small, round, yellowish head, and a green body which is soft and nearly trans- 
 parent. Leaving the bushes, they burrow into the soil an inch or two and make 
 oval cocoons of silk mixed with particles of earth. They remain in these until 
 the following season when they emerge as flies. 
 
 Remedies. — Spray with hellebore or insect powder. 
 
 The rose-leaf hopper is a small whitish insect found on the lower surface 
 of rose leaves, sucking out the cell contents and giving the upper surface a 
 white spotted appearance. The adult is a little more than one-tenth of an inch 
 long, with a yellowish-white body, and white, semi-transparent wing covers. 
 It has long hind legs, by means of which it is enabled to make tremendous leaps 
 when disturbed. 
 
 Remedies. These little pests are much easier to destroy before they are 
 fully developed than afterwards. Spraying or dusting with pyrethum, or to- 
 bacco, in tlic form either of a powder or a decoction, is also good, and kerosene 
 emulsion will destroy the pests.* — From Spraying Crops, published by The 
 Rural Publishing Company. 
 
ANNIE DE DIESBACH. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 Introduced in 1858 it is one of the very best of this color, a 
 beautiful shade of carmine. It is a seedling raised from 
 La Re in e and is very fragrant and hardy. A valuable garden 
 variety and should be extensively planted. It does equally as 
 well when grown in the house and forced into early blooming, 
 it gives an abundance of the choicest flowers. 
 
AMERICAN BEAUTY. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 This is an American production introduced in 1885 ar, d is a 
 valuable and desirable variety, and does well when grown in 
 the house or planted out on the rose border or bed. Its 
 flowers arc very fragrant and is therefore valuable for cutting 
 either in winter or summer. 
 
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CAPRICE. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 An American production raised by Jas. Vick in 1889 from 
 seed of Arch duchess if Antriche. Tin's is very distinct in its 
 flowers which are produced in the greatest profusion. Caprice 
 is the only hardy rose that has any variegation in its flowers. 
 This is distinctly striped, and is very showy and beautiful. It 
 deserves to be largely grown. 
 
CHARLES LEFEBVRE. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 What a charming rose is this ! large size, hardly any thorns; 
 surely this is the ideal rose. Introduced in 1861 and supposed 
 to be a cross between Gen. Jacqueminot and Victor Verdier. 
 Few roses are so brilliant as this. It succeeds generally and is 
 greatly admired everywhere. 
 
COUNTESSE DE SERENYE. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 Introduced in 1874. This requires, and merits a little extra 
 care. It does not always open well in wet weather but is 
 charming in the fall when others have done blooming. It 
 should have a good open sunny exposure. And then, it is 
 generally satisfactory. Valuable for prolonging the blossom- 
 ing season and should therefore be universally planted. 
 
GEN. JACQUEMINOT. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 In 1853 France gave us General Jacqueminot, leader of the 
 hybrid perpetuate, the grand, dark, crimson rose, so sturdy in 
 growth, rich in bloom and powerful in odor. The great half 
 blown/dusky crimson buds have slept on the bosom of every 
 belle since that day, and they have been sold by the hundred 
 for as many dollars to New York dealers, and were retailed, no 
 doubt, for twice that sum. A few days before one Christmas 
 the only Jacqueminot buds to be found in that city were sold 
 to a customer for $15 each, or eight times their weight in gold. 
 —American Review. Hundreds of thousands of feet of glass 
 are devoted to the culture of this one rose for the purpose of 
 forcing it out of season. It is known the world over and 
 succeeds everywhere. 
 
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LOUIS VAN HOUTTI. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 This has large handsome foliage with very few thorns and 
 is a grand good rose, highly perfumed and a very abundant 
 bloomer. Said to be the finest rose in this shade of color. 
 This is about the darkest colored rose there is. It is highly 
 perfumed, and valuable for cutting for vases, etc. 
 
MARSHALL P. WILDER. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 An American variety raised from seed in 1 88 1 . A writer in 
 Vick's Magazine in December, 1883, said that if he could only 
 have one rose he wanted that one to be Marshall P. Wilder. 
 It is of vigorous growth with clean healthy foliage, large, 
 handsomely formed flowers, and continues to flower long after 
 others of this class are out of bloom. 
 
MRS. JOHN LAING. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 Raised by Bennett of England in 1887, and there awarded 
 the gold medal for the finest light colored rose. It is very 
 prolific in its fragrant flowers, a vigorous grower, very hardy 
 and free from mildew. One rose grower says it gave him a 
 full crop of flowers every three weeks through the season. 
 Another says the most beautiful rose of recent introduction. 
 
MABEL MORRISON. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 White roses are always beautiful and desirable, their color 
 makes such a pleasing contrast with their green foliage. 
 This is one of the best. 
 

PAUL NEYRON. 
 
 (Hybrid Remontant.) 
 
 Introduced in 1869 and is supposed to be a cross between 
 Anne de Diesbach and Victor Verdier, two good varieties. 
 It is a vigorous grower with clean, healthy and enduring 
 foliage. The growth is inclined to be upright and flowers 
 somewhat fragrant and plentiful; the flowers are very large. 
 It is a very desirable sort for a rose bed or the border. 
 
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 12 
 
TEA ROSES. 
 
 These are celebrated for their delicious fragrance, fine form, 
 and the rich charming tints in their flowers. If kept growing 
 they are everblooming. They should, therefore, have a rich 
 soil, and be kept constantly growing for they bloom as they grow. 
 In locations where they do not freeze, and continue to grow year 
 after year, they form large bushes with luxuriant foliage and 
 large flowers. Nearly all require winter protection in the 
 Middle and Northern States which is easily provided for by a 
 covering of leaves and strawy manure and over these evergreen 
 branches. 
 
 CATHERINE MERMET. 
 
 (Tea Rose.) 
 
 This is one of the strongest growers and free blooming of 
 all the Teas. It is admirably adapted to planting out in beds, 
 or masses, and is equally valuable as a pot variety, to bloom 
 through the winter months, in the house. The colors are very 
 delicate and rich and the perfume or fragance very fine. This 
 has the same silvery lustre seen in the La France, but in few 
 others. The buds of this variety are faultless in form and 
 much sought after. 
 
PERLE DES JARDINS. 
 
 (Tea Rose.) 
 
 Introduced in 1874 and still one of the best of this class and 
 color. This magnificent rose still retains the foremost position 
 as one of the finest tea roses of this color. The color varies 
 from canary to golden yellow, flowers are large and beautifully 
 formed on stiff stems, handsome in every stage and develop- 
 ment from the smallest bud to the largest flower. The color, 
 whether light or deep, always has a peculiar softness, not 
 observed in any other yellow rose ; does well in the house and 
 in the open air. This is justly called the Pearl of the garden 
 and it is said that the majority of cut flower buyers who order 
 " Marechal Niel" buds on account of their popular name, the 
 year round, do not know their orders are filled with " Perles " 
 and quite to their satisfaction, too. Though the two varieties 
 differ, this does not suffer by comparison. 
 
LA FRANCE. 
 
 (Hybrid Tea Rose.) 
 
 Correctly speaking this is a hybrid tea with a strong and 
 vigorous constitution, and is the sweetest of all roses. The 
 color is silvery rose, changing to pink. If grown out of doors 
 it needs high culture and a bright sunny exposure, always in 
 bloom, and whether in bud or with its fully expanded flowers it 
 is a beautiful rose. This is an invaluable sort. 
 
MARECHAL NIEL. 
 
 (Noisette Rose.) 
 
 Introduced in 1864. This is a delightfully fragrant rose, 
 flowers deep yellow, very large, full, properly speaking it is a 
 Noisette and gives the greatest satisfaction when planted where 
 its long shoots can have support. Gives the best results when 
 planted out in the greenhouse border with plenty of room to 
 develop. As grown in the Southern States it makes a large 
 wide spreading bush and produces the greatest abundance of 
 large handsome golden yellow flowers. 
 
 It is written that after General Niel's heroism in Italy, 
 while returning to France he was one day given a basket of 
 roses by a peasant on the roadside. In it was a bud which 
 attracted his attention. Niel kept the shoot and gave it to a 
 noted florist who obtained from it four roses. These were 
 carried to the then Empress Eugenie, who remarked with 
 vivacity, " I will christen the rose for you, the ' Marechal 
 Niel,' " and this is said to be the origin of this famous rose. 
 
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BLANCHE MOREAU. 
 
 (Moss.) 
 
 This is known as a perpetual moss, and has all the charac- 
 teristics of the other mosses except that it blooms in the 
 autumn, and is therefore valuable in prolonging the flowering 
 season. The chief beauty of all moss roses are in the buds 
 and, while these varieties which bloom in the autumn do not 
 give as many buds as those which bloom only in the summer 
 months, they still are very valuable in producing these 
 flowers. They need high culture and rather close pruning 
 early in the spring. 
 
PRINCESS ADELAIDE. 
 
 (Moss Rose.) 
 Moss roses are distinguished from all others by the moss- 
 like substance which surrounds the flowers, and a peculiar scent 
 which is not easy to describe on paper. Nearly every one 
 wants two or three of these in a collection for the flowers are 
 much sought after while in bud for boquets. Princess 
 Adelaide is one of the best in this color and is beautiful either 
 in bud or fully expanded flower. Prune rather closely and 
 remove all weakly shoots and give high culture. 
 
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WHITE MOSS. 
 
 (White Bath.) 
 
 Moss Roses are a favorite with everyone, on account of 
 their beautiful buds, which for bouquets and cut flowers are 
 invaluable. As a class, they are rather more subject to 
 mildew than some others, and therefore, need high culture 
 and rather close pruning. Nothing so soon responds to this 
 generous treatment which ma) - be seen in the increased 
 number and size of the flowers. All are hardy, but in ex- 
 posed sections are been benefitted by protection in winter. 
 
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CLOTHILDE SOUPERT. 
 
 (POLYANTHA ROSE.) 
 This belongs to a comparatively new group, from Japan, 
 which now contains many very valuable varieties. They are 
 everblooming, of rather slender growth and dwarf habit, 
 producing an abundance of small beautiful flowers in clusters. 
 As an edging for a bed of roses they produce a very marked 
 effect. Clothilde Soupert has very double beautifully imbri- 
 cated flowers, like an astor, produced in clusters, and always 
 in bloom. Either buds or fully expanded flowers are always to 
 be had. 
 
POLYANTHA ROSE -^Clotilde Soupert 
 
 A new class of Roses of dwarf habit, with small, very double, beautifully formed flower' 
 excellent for out door planting and pot culture. 
 
QUEEN OF PRAIRIES. 
 
 (Climbing Rose.) 
 
 This, with several other varieties, is indigenous to this 
 country, being found in many of the Western States. It is a 
 true climber and may be used to cover any unsightly object as 
 well as walls, trellises, buildings, etc. This grows very rapidly 
 making long vigorous shoots and flowers rather late in the 
 season, and lasts for a long time. The flowers are produced in 
 large clusters and make a very handsome appearance. To our 
 mind there is nothing superior to the Prairie roses for porch 
 or veranda decorations. 
 
BALTIMORE BELLE. 
 
 (Climbing Prairie Rose.) 
 
 This is not quite so hardy as its near relative, the Queen, 
 though sufficiently so to withstand all ordinary winters and is 
 really a very desirable variety. Grown alone or with the 
 Queen of Prairies it produces, with its immense clusters of 
 flowers, a pleasing effect. The flowers are white, witfl a tinge 
 of pink in the centre. Supports or trellises should be provided 
 for these and in pruning do it very sparingly removing only a 
 few of the shoots. When the flowering season is over it is 
 well to remove the old flower stems as they produce an 
 unsightly effect. This and Queen of Prairies are and should be 
 extensively planted everywhere. 
 
BALTIMORE BELLE. 
 
 White with blush center, very full and double; one of the finest climbing roses; a rapid grower, 
 with hardy and luxuriant foliage, and immense clusters of flowers. 
 
PERSIAN YELLOW. 
 
 (Austrian Rose.) 
 
 This is an old and favorite variety, very hardy, and seldom 
 injured by extreme cold. To have this in perfection it needs 
 peculiar culture, and every place, no matter how small, should 
 have more than one plant of this variety. In pruning only 
 remove the weakly shoots and shorten the others very little, 
 for the flowers are produced from the terminal shoots of the 
 previous year's growth. The foliage is small and faintly 
 scented like the sweet brier. The flowers are bright yellow, 
 rather small, nearly full, and round. 
 
PERSIAN YELLOW. 
 The best hardy yellow rosy in cultivation ; has an abundance of yellow bloom. Very 
 
 showy early in the season. 
 
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