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A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 THROUGH THE OLD WORLD: 
 
 A RECORD OF AX EXCURSION MADE TO 
 AND THROUGH EUROPE, 
 
 BY THE TOURJEE EDUCATIONAL PARTY OF 1878. 
 
 fa* 
 
 By LUTHER L. HOLDER. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY LEE & SHEPARD. 
 1879. 
 
 JVo. 33lJ 
 c, 1879. # y 
 
 <lr 
 
By LEE AND SHEPAKD. 
 1879. 
 
 W v 1 
 
 Stereotyped and printed by Wright & Potter Printing Co., 79 Milk St., Boston, 
 
TO THE MEMBERS 
 
 Tourjee Excursion Party op 1878, 
 
 WHOSE GENIAL COMPANIONSHIP ENHANCED THE PLEASURES 
 
 OF A DELIOHFUL \OUND OF EUROPEAN TRAVEL, 
 
 A 
 
 £Jjts Folumc 
 
 IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In submitting the accompanying volume to the members 
 of the Tourjee Excursion Party of 1878, and to the public, 
 the author and compiler feels that some apology for its late 
 appearance is called for. It was designed that it should 
 appear soon after the party returned home, but the execu- 
 tion of this plan was prevented by unavoidable circumstances. 
 Duties of an engrossing nature greatly delayed the beginning 
 of the work of preparation, and when this was at length 
 entered upon, it had to be carried forward amid such con- 
 tinued cares and responsibilities, as inevitably surround a 
 busy journalist. Thus the labor has been performed hur- 
 riedly, notwithstanding the months that have elapsed since 
 it should have been undertaken ; and the writer finds that 
 while the ink from his pen is yet undried, he is upon the eve 
 of a second "Summer Jaunt Through the Old World," under 
 the same wise leadership that made the first such a constant 
 source of pleasure and profit. In a great measure, then, 
 the compilation of these records has been not only in 
 retrospection of happy experiences, but, in some degree, 
 anticipatory of pleasures yet to come. 
 
 Very valuable assistance has been given by several mem- 
 bers of the party, who were connected with divisions other 
 than the one of which "the writer was a member ; especially 
 by Mr. A. F. Lewis, of Fryeburg, Me., who has given in 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 Chapters X., XI., XII., and XIII., an interesting account 
 of the travels of the First, or "Italian" Division. Mr. 
 E. Emory Johnson, of Moodus, Conn., in behalf of the 
 Second Division ; Mr. Frank Bolles, of Washington, D. C, 
 representing the Third Division ; and Mr. O. B. Bruce, of 
 Binghamton, N. Y., the Fourth Division, have likewise ren- 
 dered kindly aid by furnishing notes of travel, which, from 
 necessity, inasmuch as the book has grown into large pro- 
 portions, have been considerably abridged in Chapters XIV., 
 XV., and XVI. Mr. Bruce, who was early made familiar 
 with Dr. Tourjee's plans and purposes in connection with 
 the excursion, has also prepared, by request, the introduction 
 to the work. 
 
 The volume is intended as a pleasant souvenir of a de- 
 lightful round of European travel, in which nearly three 
 hundred Americans — a larger excursion party than ever 
 before went from our shores — had, at least in part, a 
 common experience. The writer trusts, that in spite of any 
 imperfections hasty work may have caused, this purpose 
 will be fully met. While in pursuance of the chief plan to 
 present a faithful history of that excursion, much subject- 
 matter of little interest to others may have been included in 
 its pages ; he trusts, nevertheless, that the book may prove 
 a source of much information to the general reader, and, as 
 such, form, in some measure, an instructive and agreeable 
 hand-book of travel. 
 Boston, 1879. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Dedication, Page iii 
 
 Preface, " r 
 
 Contents, " vii 
 
 Illustrations, " xiii 
 
 Introduction, " xv 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 on the ocean. 
 Leaving New York — The steamer " Devonia" and its Comforts — The 
 Anchor Fleet — First Night on the Ocean — Strange Sounds and 
 Sensations — Sabbath at Sea -^ Religious Services — Means of 
 Amusement — " Chalking" — " Bell Time" at Sea — A Series of Re- 
 markable Manifestos — Musical and Intellectual Entertainments 
 
 — The dreaded " Banks " — The " Glorious Fourth " in Mid-Ocean 
 
 — A Night Incident — A Strange Fleet — The Range of Vision 
 on the Ocean — A Burial at Sea — Land Ho ! — Beauty of the Irish 
 and Scottish Coasts — The Giant's Causeway — Evening Sail up 
 the Charming Frith of Clyde, 7 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 An Early Visit to Glasgow — St. George's Square, the Cathedral, 
 
 &c. — A Charming Excursion through Loch Lomond, Loch 
 
 Katrine, and the Trosachs — The Land of Rob Roy — The 
 
 Scenes of Scott's " Lady of the Lake " — Stirling and its Ancient 
 
Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 Castle — Edinburgh and its Beautiful Situation — Its Monu- 
 ments and Historic Sites — Calton Hill — Holyrood Palace, and 
 its Reminiscences of Mary Queen of Scots — A Walk through 
 Old Edinburgh — The Castle and its Sights — The Queen's 
 Drive — The University and its School of Music — A Memorial 
 to Canine Fidelity — Reception by the Sabbath-School Teach- 
 ers' Union — Interesting Addresses — The Journey to Melrose — 
 Melrose Abbey — Abbotsford and its Relics, ... 47 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 Entering England — By Special Train to London — The Midland 
 Railway and the Midland Country — European Railways and 
 their Peculiarities — The Approach to the Metropolis — The 
 Midland Grand Hotel — Seeing London — The Metropolis and 
 its Immensity — How London has Overgrown its Ancient 
 Limits — The Busiest Spot in the Whole World — Means of 
 Travel in the Great City — The Metropolitan Railway and the 
 Hansom Cabs — The Houses of Parliament and their Adornment 
 — Westminster Hall — Westminster Abbey — Whitehall — Char- 
 ing Cross — Trafalgar Square and its Monuments — The National 
 Gallery — The Strand — Temple Bar — The Temple, &c, . 103 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ENGLAND CONTINUED. 
 
 More about London — St. Paul's and its Sights — The Post-Office 
 
 — The Tower of London — Its Mournful History and its Won- 
 ders — The Crown Jewels — Fifteen Million Dollars' Worth of 
 Gewgaws — The British Museum and its Vast Collections — The 
 South Kensington Museum — A Magnificent Art-School — The 
 Albert Memorial — The Royal Albert Hall and an Organ Concert 
 therein — Parks and Palaces — The Thames Embankments — Cle- 
 opatra's Needle — Sights on the Thames — The Docks and the 
 Shipping — The Bank of England and the Royal Exchange — 
 Band of Hope Fete at the Crystal Palace — Singing by Ten 
 Thousand Children — A Glimpse of Royalty — Spurgeon and his 
 Work, &c, 159 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 Leaving London for Paris — The Route via Newhaven and Dieppe 
 
 — Crossing the English Channel — A Famous French Watering- 
 Place — The Railway Ride through Normandy — Rouen — The 
 
CONTENTS. IX 
 
 Valley of the Seine — Entering Paris — The Hotel Bedford — 
 The Boulevards — The Cafes — The Fortifications — The Sew- 
 ers — How the Paris Streets are Cleaned — The Champs Ely sees 
 — The Place de la Concorde and its History — The Obelisk of 
 Luxor — The Arc "cle Triomphe — The Bois de Boulogne — 
 The Church of the Madeleine — The Church of Notre Dame — 
 Ancient Lutetia — The Palais de Justice and Sainte Chapelle — 
 The Morgue — The Hotel de Cluny — The Pantheon, &c, 203 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FRANCE CONTINUED. 
 The Louvre and its Treasures — The Arc de Triomphe du Car- 
 rousel — M. Giffard's Captive Balloon — The Palais Royal — 
 The Hotel des Invalides, and the Tomb of Napoleon — The 
 Vendome Column — The Column of July — The Bibliotheqae 
 Nationale — The Grand Opera and the Opera Comique — The 
 Conservatoire de Musique — The Cemetery of Pcre-la-Chaise — 
 The Park of the Buttes Chaumont — The Markets — A Peep at 
 the Exposition Universelle — The Exhibition Buildings and the 
 Arrangement of the Grounds — General Characteristics of the 
 Display — Two National Concerts — An Excursion to St. Cloud, 
 Versailles, and Sevres — The Palace of Versailles and its Art 
 Galleries — A Lunch with Mr. Thomas Cook — Leaving Paris — 
 The Railway Journey to Geneva, 238 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 Entering the Country of Lakes and Mountains — Geneva and its 
 Charming Situation — Its Interesting Features — An Organ 
 Concert at the Cathedral — Lake Leman — Lausanne — The 
 Castle of Chillon — Fribourg — Its Famous Orgau and a Con- 
 cert thereon — Bern — Another Organ Concert — Market Day 
 and the Peasantry — Thun and its Beautiful Lake — The Bodeli 
 Railway — Interlaken — The Jungfrau — Lauterbrunuen and 
 the Fall of the Staubbach — Grindelwald and its Glaciers — A 
 New Way to Repulse Clamorous Guides— An Effectual Dis- 
 charge of "Greek Fire" — The Alpine Horn — The Lake 01 
 Brienz and the Falls of the Geissbach — Swiss Music —The 
 Brunig Pass — An Ascent of the Rigi — Suuset and Sunrise as 
 seen from the Summit — Excursion on the Lake of the Four 
 Cantons — William Tell — Lucerne and its Quaint Bridges — 
 More Organ Music — The Inevitable " Storm-piece V — Zurich — 
 Schaff hausen and the Falls of the Rhine, . . . . . 272 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 GERMANY. 
 
 Leaving Switzerland — Basel and its Clocks — Strassburg and its 
 Famous Cathedral — Marks of the Siege of 1870 — The Storks 
 and the Geese — The Astronomical Clock — Climbing the 
 Cathedral Tower in a Thunder-storm — Baden-Baden and its 
 Beautiful Surroundings — The Black Forest — Heidelberg — 
 Its University and Ruined. Castle — The Great Tun— The 
 Rich City of Frankfort — Wiesbaden and its Attractions — 
 The Storied Rhine — Its Towns and Vineyards — Its Castles 
 and their Romantic Legends — The Bromserburg — The Mouse 
 Tower — The Devil's Ladder — The Pfaizgrafenstein — The 
 Lurleiberg — The "Cat" and the "Mouse" — "The Brothers" — 
 Roland and Hildegunde — The Drachenfels — Cologne — Its 
 Great Cathedral — The Church of the Eleven Thousand Virgins 
 and its Relics — Other Objects of Interest in Cologne, . 322 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 
 
 From Cologne to Brussels — Aix-la-Chapelle — Liege — Louvain — 
 
 Belgium's Capital — The Hotel de Ville and the Guild Halls — 
 
 The Galerie St. Hubert — The Cathedral of Ste. Gudule — The 
 
 Park and the Neighboring Palaces — The Museum of Paintings 
 
 — The Wiertz Museum — Monuments, Statues, and Fountains — 
 The Conservatoire de Musique — The Lace Manufactories — 
 The Battle-field of Waterloo — Mechlin — Antwerp in Gala 
 Attire — The Cathedral and its Art Treasures — Quentin Mat- 
 sys's Well — The Church of St. Jacques — Celebrated Works of 
 Art — Rubens and his Pictures — A Quaint Church Exhibition 
 
 — The Plantiu Museum — The Zuid-Bcveland of Holland — 
 A Glimpse of the Land of Dikes and Ditches — Crossing the 
 North Sea — Back again in London, 373 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 THE FIRST SECTION — ITALY. 
 The Journey from London to the Continent, and through Belgium, 
 Germany, and Switzerland — Mont Cenis Tunnel — Milan — 
 The Cathedral — Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" — Verona 
 
 — Romeo and Juliet — The Capulet Mansion — Juliet's Tomb 
 
 — Venice — The Gondoliers — Venetian Painters — St. Mark's 
 Church — The Doge's Palace — The Bridge of Sighs — The 
 Piazza of St. Mark's — The Doves of Venice — Reception of 
 King Humbert and Queen Margherita — Carnival of Venice — 
 
CONTENTS. XI 
 
 Florence — Its Palaces and Churches — The Baptistry — The 
 Cathedral — Sante Croce — Dante — The Medicean Chapel — 
 The Pitti Palace — The Uffizzi Gallery — The Venus de Medici 
 
 — The Group of Niobe — American Artists — The . Powers 
 Family — The Protestant Cemetery, 401 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE FIRST SECTION. — ITALY CONTINUED. 
 
 Rome — St. Peter's — The Arch of Constantine — The Arch of Titus 
 
 — The Colosseum — The Ancient Gladiatorial Contests — The 
 Capitol — The Forum — The Pantheon — The Baths of Cara- 
 calla — The Appian Way — The Tomb of Cecilia Metella — The 
 Footsteps of St. Paul — The Mamertine Prison — St. Paul's 
 "Hired House" —The Basilica of St. Paul's Beyond the Walls 
 
 — The Holy Staircase — The Vatican and its Treasures — The 
 Sistine Chapel — Raphael's " Transfiguration " — The Apollo 
 Belvidere — The Laocoon — The Catacombs — A Visit to the 
 Pope — The Church of St. Clement — Recent Excavations — 
 The Roman Aqueducts — The Column of Trajan — The Castle 
 of St. Angelo — Beatrice Cenci — Presentation to Siguor Barat- 
 toni, 446 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE FIRST DIVISION. — ITALY CONTINUED. 
 Naples — Its Matchless Bay — The Museum — Celebrated Paint- 
 ings and Statuary — "The Roman Charity" — Pompeii, the 
 Buried City — A Perfect Picture of Roman Life Eighteen 
 Centuries Ago — Vesuvius — Ascent of the Cone — Descent into 
 the Crater — The View from the Summit of Vesuvius — Italian 
 Guides and Beggars — Pisa — The Leaning Tower — The 
 Cathedral — The Campo Santo — The Baptistry — " Genoa, 
 the Superb" — Its Palaces and Churches — A Moonlight Sail 
 on the Mediterranean — Turin — An Exciting Incident — En- 
 counter of a Brave American Girl with Italian Pickpockets, 509 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 THE FIRST DIVISION. — THROUGH FRANCE, ENGLAND, ETC. 
 From Turin to Paris — London Again — Oxford and its Colleges — 
 The Students — The Martyr's Memorial — Wesley and Wickliffe 
 
 — The Bodleian Library — Stratford-on-Avou — Shakespeare's 
 Birthplace — Interesting Relics — Anne Hathaway's Cottage — 
 To Ireland, via Birmingham and Holyhead — Dublin and its 
 Sights — Irish Jaunting-Cars — The Ocean Voyage Homeward 
 
 — Concluding Words, 554 
 
Xll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 THE SECOND DIVISION. 
 Notes of the Tour through Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and 
 France — Interesting Incident at Zurich — Congratulatory Reso- 
 tions Passed at Paris, 574 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 THE THIRD DIVISION. 
 
 Notes of the Journey from London over the Continent, and hack 
 to Eugland — Interesting Celebrations at Brussels — Gil- 
 more's Band at Cologne — Saluting the Sirens of the Rhine — 
 Glorious Scenes on the Rigi, &c, 584 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE FOURTH DIVISION. 
 
 Notes of the Continental Journey — Amusing Incidents — Grand 
 Illumination by the Students at Heidelberg — Two Days on the 
 Rhine — Visits to Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein — The Return 
 to England, &c, 594 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 THE " CIRCASSIA " PARTY. 
 The Advance Guard of the American Invaders — The Tour through. 
 Scotland, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and France — An- 
 other Section Visits Italy, 606 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 Once More in London — Supplementary Tours by Members of the 
 Party — Notes of a Visit to Sorrento and the Blue Grotto of 
 Capri, and of a Tour of Lakes Como and Lugano — A Pilgrimage 
 to the Holy Land — Setting Sail for Home — The "Rolling 
 Deep" — Entertainments on Shipboard — Benefit of the Ship- 
 wrecked Mariners' Society — Congratulatory Resolutions — 
 Arrival at New York — The Custoni-House Officers — Dr. Tour- 
 jeVs Christmas Greeting, 609 
 
 ArncNDix, Page 633 
 
 Index, "643 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 The Scott Memorial, Edinburgh 
 
 Edinburgh Castle, 
 
 Westminster Abbey, 
 
 Henry Seventh's Chapel, Westminster Abbey, . 
 
 Tower of London, 
 
 Joan of Arc's Tower, Rouen, 
 
 Place de la Concorde, . . . . 
 
 Church of the Madeleine, . 
 
 Sainte Chapelle, Paris 
 
 Colonnade of the Louvre, 
 
 Dome of the Hotel des Invalides, ...... 
 
 Palace of the Luxembourg, 
 
 The River Seine in Paris 
 
 The Park and Palace of Versailles, 
 
 Lausanne and the Savoy Alps 
 
 Grindelwald 
 
 The Tell Chapel near Fluelen, . . . . . 
 
 Lucerne and Mont Pilatus, . 
 
 A Stork's Nest in Strassburg, * 
 
 View of Strassburg from near Erwin of Steinbach's 
 
 Monument, 
 
 Heidelberg and the Old Castle, 
 
 Frankfort-on-tiie-Main, 
 
 Caub and the Pfalzgrafenstein 
 
 The Hotel de Ville, Brussels, ....... 
 
 A Row of Holland Giants, 
 
 The Cathedral of Milan . 
 
 Palace of the Doges at Venice, 
 
 The Arena of the Colosseum, 
 
 The Roman Forum, 
 
 Roman Temple of Hercules, called the Temple of the 
 
 Sybil 
 
 The Herculaneum Gate, Pompeii, as it was, .... 
 Ehrenbreitstein, 
 
 Facing page 66 
 79 
 142 
 150 
 168 
 215 
 224 
 ' 230 
 234 
 240 
 244 
 255 
 260 
 266 
 282 
 299 
 309 
 315 
 
 344 
 348 
 358 
 377 
 397 
 411 
 427 
 456 
 463 
 
 491 
 517 
 602 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Year after year, many toiling teachers, ministers, musi- 
 cians, and brain- workers in other vocations have turned the 
 wistful eye across the Atlantic to that happy tramping- 
 ground for tourists — Europe ; inwardly resolving to go some 
 day, when slender purse and brief vacation would permit. 
 Such, though lost to sight, were not forgotten. Dr. Eben 
 Tourjee, in his wide and intimate acquaintance with these 
 classes of toilers, had long been aware of the yearnings 
 that tongues fain would utter, and wisely estimated the 
 influences that a properly directed tour could effect, 
 if brought within the limited means of such deserving 
 laborers. 
 
 Having clearly defined in his own mind the nature, scope, 
 and feasibility of such a project, with him, to think was to 
 act ; so accordingly, in 1876, he announced it to some 
 friends and others for critical opinions. So well digested 
 and practically adapted were his plans to all the wants and 
 capabilities of such a party, that few suggestions could be 
 given. 
 
 It is no easy task to arrange the details of a tour which, 
 while it gives the teacher ample opportunity to personally 
 examine the pedagogics of the lower, middle, and higher 
 school systems of Europe, provides also suitable occasions 
 and special facilities for those particularly interested in 
 music, art, or science, by gaining access to galleries and 
 collections of sculpture, painting, architecture, antiquities, 
 &c, by visitation, of various libraries, and by arranging a 
 
XVI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 series of grand concerts along the tour, at the same time 
 omitting no places of natural, national, or historic interest. 
 To a fertile, energetic, and comprehensive mind expe- 
 dients are plenty, means are ready, circumstances are 
 utilized ; thus came before the world the largest "Euro- 
 pean excursion " that had ever left our shores — 
 
 The Tourjee Musical and Educational Party. 
 
 That most illustrious of caliphs, Haroun-al-Raschid, not 
 content to be shut up in his palace, where he heard only 
 fawning sj'cophancy, saw only the glitterings of Oriental 
 splendor, knew only what was communicated to him through 
 interested and falsely colored mediums, accustomed himself 
 to go about the streets of Bagdad disguised, that he might 
 see with his own ej^es and hear with his own ears. Thus 
 he made himself acquainted with the cause and effect of 
 various circumstances, learned the condition of his subjects, 
 and often, heard those salutary truths which never had 
 reached his ears through the walls of his palace or from the 
 courtiers and parasites surrounding him. 
 
 To no class of brain-workers is the foregoing allusion 
 more applicable than to the teacher, who, from the nature 
 of his calling, surroundings, and influences, is apt to be 
 content to remain in his school-room, hearing at times only 
 the "damning of faint praise," seeing only the day's rou- 
 tine done, knowing only the vague semblance of knowledge 
 often conve3 T ed through distorted views. Let such once go 
 abroad, beyond his own horizon, to see with his own eyes 
 and to hear with his own ears, — how great the change ! At 
 once his acquaintance with men and things widens, his views 
 broaden, his intellect expands, his sympathies deepen, his 
 aspirations kindle, his tastes become elevated, his impres- 
 sions become real and vivid ; thus, amid recreation, enjoy- 
 
INTRODUCTION. XV11 
 
 merit, and improvement, he becomes a new being, now feel- 
 ing that a beneficent Creator has given him 
 
 " A world made so various that the mind 
 Of desultory man, studious of change, 
 And pleased with novelty, might be indulged." 
 
 Though we read volumes about Europe, yet, in so doing, 
 we fail to enjoy the peculiar advantages of a tour ; especially 
 is this true of the teacher, minister, artist, or musician. 
 Nearly every periodical of the da} T , directly or indirectly, 
 suggests the value and desirability of a personal contact and 
 acquaintance with the distinctive social, religious, aesthetic, 
 political, and physical features of Europe, — to move among 
 its peoples, to study its institutions, to visit its historic 
 places, and compare all with our own land. All know the 
 value of observation, and he who can take in the great 
 world without, will have a world within. 
 
 The retrospect of our recent tour is fertile in pleasant 
 reminiscences. It vividly recalls our first meeting on ship- 
 board, where we then were, in fact, a party of strangers, 
 one to another, gathered from all sections of the Union and 
 from the Dominion of Canada. We hear again the voice 
 of friendly greeting, we feel the cordial shake of the hand, 
 we mingle once more in impressive devotions, in inspiring 
 music, in enlivening games and exercises that whiled the 
 hours away as we "rolled the billows o'er." Memory 
 dwells with joy upon generous friendships there formed ; it 
 lingers with pleasing interest upon forms and features now 
 absent in bod} T , but in the spirit ever present. These asso- 
 ciations, with the special conditions and circumstances of 
 our after journey, the glowing and cordial enthusiasm of 
 our part}', the enriching acquisitions, both in views and 
 experiences, adorn our retrospect with a charming interest, 
 
XV111 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 wherein are "reason mixed with pleasure, and wisdom 
 blent with mirth." 
 
 From a general and intimate acquaintance with the party, 
 and from frequently expressed sentiments of many mem 
 bers, we are assured that the grand aim and object of Dr. 
 Tourjee have been attained. Whatever the penchant of any 
 member, the comprehensive execution of all details brought 
 each his own desire, whether it was in scenes of beauty, 
 romance, history, or tradition; whether in art — music, 
 painting, sculpture, ceramics, or architecture ; in the relics 
 of antiqmt}^, or the wonders of mediaeval or modern times ; 
 in observing civil, social, religious, or educational forms 
 and sj'stems, — all were provided, and all enjoyed. The 
 results of such personal visitation, observation, contact, 
 and experiences imbued our members with new, curious, 
 and enduring views, feelings, aims, and aspirations that will 
 generate a life-force in all future character, leading each to 
 a higher, nobler appreciation of God's work and dealings 
 among the nations of the earth ; leading the heart more 
 truty to adore its Creator, and with Job to exclaim in its 
 adoration, "I have heard of thee by the hearing of the 
 ear : but now mine eye seeth thee." 
 
 While the perusal of this book will be interesting to all 
 
 readers, it will be peculiarly and interestingly suggestive to 
 
 members of the Tourjee Party, leading many to live over 
 
 again the scenes and experiences in which each bore a 
 
 prominent part. May such reminiscences be fraught with a 
 
 pleasure only to increase with recurring reference to the 
 
 recorded Tour of the Tourjee Musical and Educational 
 
 Party ! 
 
 " Still o'er these scenes may memory wake, 
 And fondly brood with miser care : 
 May time the impression deeper make, 
 As streams their channels deeper wear." 
 
A SUMMEE JAUNT THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 ON THE OCEAN. 
 
 Leaving New York — The steamer "Devonia"'and its Comforts — The 
 Anchor Fleet — First Night on the Ocean — Strange Sounds and 
 Sensations — Sabbath at Sea — Religious Services — Means of 
 Amusement — "Chalking"— " Bell Time" at Sea — A Series of Re- 
 markable Manifestos — Musical and Intellectual Entertainments 
 
 — The dreaded "Banks" — The Glorious Fourth in Mid-Ocean 
 
 — A Night Incident — A Strange Fleet — The Range of Vision 
 on the Ocean — A Burial at Sea — Land Ho ! — Beauty of the Irish 
 and Scottish Coasts — The Giant's Causeway — Evening Sail up 
 the Charming Frith of Clyde. 
 
 The 29th of June, 1878, was a marked day in the 
 calendar, at least, for nearly two hundred and fifty 
 Americans, who had united, under Dr. Eben Tourjee's 
 leadership, for a friendly invasion of the Old World. 
 It was the date of their departure from New York in 
 the good steamship "Devonia," of the Anchor Line, and 
 of the beginning of a season of novel and most profit- 
 able experiences. The term " Americans " is applied 
 in a general, or European sense, inasmuch as our. party 
 included representatives of various parts of the Domin- 
 ion of Canada, as well as of every section of the United 
 
2 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 States. Some there were, doubtless, who sniffed the 
 salt breezes of old ocean, and looked upon its stupen- 
 dous craft, for the first time, when they threaded their 
 way through the crowded streets of the metropolis, 
 clown to the spacious pier, where the steamer was in 
 waiting to receive them. It was an intensely warm 
 day, and this early sniff was less of the broad, cool sea 
 than of the far from over-clean waters which wash the 
 western line of docks of the great city. The party 
 included many an old traveller, who went to the dock, 
 and on board the steamer, in an easy, business-like 
 way, as if crossing the wide ocean were a common sort 
 of thing to do, and required no extraordinary amount 
 of preparation or excitement. And yet such an under- 
 taking, where a great ship goes out upon the tempest- 
 uous waves, laden with hundreds of precious lives, 
 which are henceforth, for a season at least, to be diver- 
 gent from home, kindred, and native land, is not to be 
 looked upon carelessly or lightly ; nor is it treated 
 flippantly by any sensible or thoughtful person, how- 
 ever familiar with the ways of travelling he may have 
 become. Modern appliances, and the utmost care and 
 watchfulness on the part of those having life and prop- 
 erty in their keeping, tend to make the ocean transit as 
 safe as such things can be made, but thoughts of the 
 dear ones left behind, as well as of personal welfare, 
 naturally crowd upon the mind of the voyager. 
 
 On the pier, and on the decks of the steamer, all is 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 6 
 
 bustle and activity. The sailors go about their duties 
 in a quiet, systematic way, stowing away the cargo and 
 making other preparations for the departure. Passen- 
 gers begin to crowd the deck, with troops of friends who 
 have come to bid them adieu ; and there is a constant 
 swarm of incomers and outgoers at the gang-plank, 
 which is gradually assuming a more acute angle under 
 the influence of the rising tide. No company of pleas- 
 ure-seekers is complete without a bridal party. We 
 have several ; and one of them, from the neighboring 
 city of Brooklyn, is attended to the steamer by a large 
 retinue of friends, whose floral tributes remain a fra- 
 grant source of delight in the saloon for days after. 
 But the appointed hour of sailing is at hand. Many 
 last farewells have been said, and the friends who wish 
 they too were booked for the voyage, have gained ad- 
 vantageous places at the end of the pier, to watch the 
 great ship as it glides out into the stream. Every pas- 
 senger is on deck, and moving about amid the throngs 
 of people and the sprawling deck-chairs is laborious. 
 There is a slight delay for a mail-bag, or something or 
 other, and a few minutes seem an hour. At length all 
 is in readiness, the gang-plank is thrown off, the gates 
 in the bulwarks are closed, to be opened the next time 
 three thousand miles away, and the hawsers are hauled 
 in. The captain and the pilot have taken their places 
 on the bridge, the other officers are in their places at 
 various points on the ship, the engineer's bell is struck, 
 
4 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and the great engines down in the depths of the vessel, 
 are responsively imbued with life. There is an agita- 
 tion of the water at the stern of the ship, almost im- 
 perceptibly the giant craft begins to glide away from 
 the pier, and soon the buildings, ships, and crowds of 
 friends on shore, recede in the view. 
 
 In the middle of a bright, sunny, summer afternoon, 
 we course almost noiselessly from the mouth of the 
 North River, out across New York Bay, past the docks 
 and the forest of masts which fringe the great city, 
 past the Battery and the other landmarks of lower 
 New York, the basins and great warehouses of Brook- 
 lyn, the frowning forts, and the pleasant green slopes 
 of the Staten Island and Long Island shores, to the 
 Narrows. We are now beyond the track of the ferry- 
 boats, and the sea craft is mostly of the larger sort. 
 Two or three other ocean-bound steamers are ahead 
 of us, or follow in our wake, and these, although pur- 
 suing a common course, are obliterated from all further 
 view by the coming night. After passing through the 
 Narrows, and out into the Lower Bay, the shores quick- 
 ly recede, but a near-at-hand view is caught of Sandy 
 Hook on one side, and Coney Island on the other, to- 
 gether with a far-away glance of Long Branch. The 
 Jersey Highlands, and the Long Island hills, loom up 
 in the distance ; but the pilot has left us, bearing ashore 
 many belated missives to friends left behind, and we 
 are now out upon the broad ocean. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 
 
 As outward things fade into distance and dimness, 
 the passengers begin to look about them, and strike 
 up an acquaintance with their surroundings — the ship 
 and their companions. The "Devonia" belongs to the 
 largest class of sea-going steamers, and in addition to 
 all the best approved appliances for strength, safety, 
 and comfort, contains one feature, at least, not com- 
 mon to ocean steamships. This is the music-room, 
 an apartment which occupies a deck-house over the 
 centre of the main saloon. Between the two apart- 
 ments is an open space, and this contains growing 
 plants and singing-birds. Within the music-room 
 were a Collard & Collard pianoforte and a Mason & 
 Hamlin organ, which belong to the vessel, a second 
 organ generously placed on board by Mason & Ham- 
 lin, in compliment to Dr. Tourjee, and a well-filled 
 library. Several of the steamers of the Anchor Line 
 are provided with music-rooms of this description, 
 and all ocean travellers who have experienced their 
 comforts, will be inclined to look upon a steamer not 
 provided with such a delightful place of resort as 
 being radically defective. It is accessible in all 
 weathers, and therefore becomes a desirable loumrins:- 
 place at times when comfort on the open deck is out 
 of the question. The "Devonia" is of 4,268 tons bur- 
 den, and being 420 feet in length, her capacious decks 
 afford ample space for promenading and exercise. 
 The vessel is admirably arranged throughout, and sol- 
 
b A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 idity and strength are everywhere observable. These 
 are prime considerations in an ocean steamer, and far 
 more important than fancy adornments and gilding. 
 Handsome and elaborate decorations are not wanting, 
 however, and the saloons are found to be fitted up 
 with great elegance and richness. The appliances for 
 steering the vessel, and for communicating between 
 the bridge and the engine-room, and with the wheel- 
 house, arc very complete ; and it is interesting to 
 observe how easily and readily the great ship is man- 
 aged. A special novelty is the mode of displaying 
 the port and starboard lights. On the forward part 
 of the ship are two prominent structures, closely 
 resembling diminutive light-houses, which they are in 
 reality. They are built of iron plates, riveted to the 
 deck of the vessel, and stand a dozen feet high or 
 more. In the interior of these lamps are suspended. 
 The Anchor fleet comprises some thirty steamships, 
 five of which are in the Glasgow service, six in the 
 London service, twelve in the Mediterranean service, 
 and the rest in the Indian service. The commodore 
 of this extensive fleet is, or was at the time of our 
 excursion, Captain James Craig, of the "Devonia." 
 Since the summer of 1878, Captain Craig has retired 
 from active service. All persons who have crossed 
 the ocean with Captain Craig will surely remember 
 him as a kind-hearted, courteous, and genial gentle- 
 man, as well as a thorough officer. Among the others 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. i 
 
 who were connected with the administration of the 
 "Devonia," and who will-be remembered by our party 
 with kindly feelings, are First Officer Allan, Second 
 Officer Craig, Third Officer Millar, Fourth Officer 
 Camp.bell, First Engineer dimming, Purser Waken- 
 shaw, Surgeon Scott, the Head Steward, Mr. Nag- 
 smith, and the Stewardess, Miss Cameron. 
 
 If the members of our party had reason to bestow 
 favor and approbation upon the ship and her officers, 
 they found equally as good cause to be satisfied with 
 themselves and each other. The passenger list was 
 made up of teachers, clergymen, editors, lawyers, 
 physicians, business men, students, and others, with 
 the gentler sex largely preponderating in both the first 
 and last classifications. As soon as the newness of 
 the voyage wore off, and everybody had become 
 fairly settled in his or her quarters, the company was 
 found to be very genial and companionable. The 
 ocean voyager, either male or female, quickly learns 
 that there are many things to be stowed away in the 
 trunks which are committed to that mysterious region 
 designated "below," besides fashionable dresses and 
 the gewgaws which go to make up stylish apparel on 
 shore. Ill-natured reserve and conventionality are as 
 much out of place and as difficult to manage at sea, as 
 a ball-room coiffure or a flowing train. The ocean is 
 a great leveller, and the sooner the voyager conforms 
 to his surroundings, the happier he will make himself 
 
8 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and those with whom he is necessarily brought in 
 contact. A stock of good-nature, and a willingness 
 to contribute to the convenience, comfort, and amuse- 
 ment of others as well as to his own, will go far 
 towards ameliorating many of the little hardships and 
 asperities of ocean life. Nothing tries human nature 
 more than travelling. Eemoved from the conven- 
 tional forms of the society in which he or she is 
 accustomed to move, and thrust among strangers, 
 with a vague sense that one's rights must be stood up 
 for, if not positively fought for, an individual is 
 likely to bring out selfish traits which drawing-room 
 friends have never suspected to exist beneath the 
 artificial smoothness of conventional propriety. Peo- 
 ple who give up the best they have with cheerful 
 resignation, at home and amid friends, will not 
 scruple to clear the plates of the last delicacy on 
 steamers or at hotels ; or to monopolize an extra 
 seat or two in the railway carriage, when the rights 
 and convenience of strangers may be at stake. But 
 what a smoothing down of rough places ensues when 
 a contrary spirit is shown ! Courtesy and politeness 
 to strangers, with a due regard for the feelings and 
 wants of others, are surer indications of true gen- 
 tility than the" mere outward varnish of fashionable 
 society, or even the conventional customs of home 
 life, where possibly selfish characteristics may yet 
 exist, though hidden from the ordinary view by the 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. U 
 
 same mean instincts which cause them to be so readily 
 exhibited abroad. In our party, to its credit, indi- 
 vidually and collectively, be it said, this better spirit 
 prevailed to an extent that made the ocean voyage 
 and 4x11 subsequent journeyings pleasant and agree- 
 able through genial companionship, as it was rendered 
 also by Dr. Tourjee's wise planning. 
 
 The first night on the ocean is fraught with many 
 peculiar sensations. It is difficult at first to become 
 accustomed to the circumscribed limits of state-room 
 and berth, and then to sleep soundly amid the 
 strange noises which are heard in the otherwise silent 
 watches of the dark hours ; for the utter stillness 
 which else would reign on shipboard intensifies each 
 stroke of the bell by which the ship's time is kept, 
 the shrillness of the boatswain's whistle, the pounding 
 of the propeller, the rumbling of the machinery by 
 means of which the heavy sails are hoisted, the creak- 
 ing of sails and rigging, and the measured " ya-ho " of 
 the sailors as they work in concert to tighten some 
 line or other. In the early hours of the morning a 
 new sound breaks on the ear, and, perchance, if the 
 would-be sleeper has disobeyed the injunction of the 
 state-room stewards and allowed a port-hole to remain 
 open, he is made aware of the fresh onslaught upon 
 his peace of mind by more violent and disagreeable 
 means. The men are washing the decks, and if it 
 chances to be the appointed time for scouring or 
 
10 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 " holy-stoning " the same, the tumult is more pro- 
 longed, and even more unaccountable. 
 
 Our first night at sea was gloriously fine. The air 
 was clear and balmy, the temperature being at the 
 same time so high that overcoats and outside wraps 
 were needless, the ocean had all the smoothness of a 
 mill-pond, and the stars shone forth with unwonted 
 brilliancy. After dinner, which was served at six 
 o'clock, all betook themselves to the deck to catch a 
 last glimpse of the far-away stretch of the Long 
 Island coast, soon to be obscured in the gathering 
 gloom. Far into the evening the solitary gleam of a 
 distant lighthouse was seen, either at Fire Island or 
 at Shinnecock Bay ; and this was the last visible sign 
 of the American coast we descried, until some two 
 months later we beheld the same welcome shores in 
 the golden morning lisrht on our return. The steamer 
 had remained at her dock in New York through a 
 week of exceedingly warm weather, and as the high 
 temperature continued to an uncommon degree on the 
 ocean, the deck was far more comfortable for several 
 nights than the overheated state-rooms. 
 
 The next clay was Sunday. At noon we were 220 
 miles distant from Sandy Hook, in latitude 40.34 N., 
 and longtitucle 69.14 W., and consequently some- 
 where off Cape Cod. The temperature was still 
 unusually warm, the sea calm, and, with the exception 
 of fog into which we ran during the early part of the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 11 
 
 afternoon, the weather was pleasant. The presence of 
 the fog brought to all ears a new sound, — the hoarse 
 and frequent notes of the steamer's whistle sounding as 
 a warning to other vessels that might be in proximity. 
 
 A Sabbath at sea is even more impressive than on 
 land. A silence rests upon all around ; and the 
 voyager is led to reflect, in the full presence of the 
 mighty ocean, one of God's most stupendous and 
 mysterious works, upon his own littleness ; upon his 
 dependence on the goodness and tender care of a wise 
 Creator ; and how completely he is guided by that 
 beneficent hand. Yonder speck upon the vast ex- 
 panse of waters, which seems to float like a mote in 
 space, is a great ship like our own, freighted, too, 
 with scores and hundreds of toiling, striving 1 human 
 beings. But how insignificant does it all seem in 
 comparison with the vastness and might of the ocean, 
 — a single one of God's creations ! 
 
 Eeligious services were held at eleven o'clock, in the 
 main saloon, under the direction of Eev. Eobert J. 
 Coster, D. D., a well-known Episcopalian divine, of 
 Pittsburgh, Pa., who preached an earnest discourse, 
 taking as his text the concluding part of the Parable 
 of the Sower, Luke viii. 15 : "But that on the good 
 ground are they, which, in an honest and good heart, 
 having heard the word, keep it, and bring forth fruit 
 with patience." From these words was enforced the 
 lesson of the responsibility of every one in doing 
 
12 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 God's work, and of the need of honest and persistent 
 labor in the divine service, from which good results 
 might slowly, yet surely must, follow. The choir, 
 and many of the congregation, occupied the music- 
 room above the saloon. Mrs. O. B. Bruce, of Bing- 
 hamton, N. Y., Mr. J. Astor Broad, of Worcester, 
 Mass., and Mr. G. F. Lane, of Birmingham, Pa., 
 tilled the positions of pianist and organists during the 
 service, and the singing, by an excellent choir, included 
 the Gloria Patri to Mienke's music, the Pened ictus 
 from Robinson's chant in E flat, the Old Hundredth 
 Psalm, "From all that dwell below the skies," and 
 "Bethany," "Nearer, my God, to Thee." 
 
 In the evening there was a praise-service of song, 
 led by Dr. Tourjee, the selections being made from 
 Dr. Tourjee's " Tribute of Praise." A few choice 
 selections were sung by a male chorus, and one song 
 by Mr. Calvin M. Lewis, of Boston. 
 
 Monday came with the weather clear and pleasant, 
 though a trifle cooler at morning and night, and a still 
 unruffled sea. The noon temperature was seventy 
 degrees, and the daily observation disclosed that we 
 had advanced 274 miles further on our course, to 
 latitude 41.35 N., and longtitude 63.20 W., which 
 would bring us one hundred miles or more off Cape 
 Sable. The passengers have begun to get acquainted 
 with the ways and means of the vessel, and the more 
 venturesome of the gentlemen have perchance carried 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 13 
 
 their investigations to the "chalking" point in the 
 forecastle or the engine-room. To the uninitiated let 
 me explain that " chalking " is a simple little device 
 the sailors and other workers about the ship have of 
 levying a little contribution wherewith to drink their 
 "Honors'" health, if not their own. Visitors to the 
 most remote regions of the vessel are received cor- 
 dially, and all questions elicit ready and civil answers, 
 provided the questioner knows enough not to get in^ 
 the way ; but anon a sailor, or a stoker, whips out a 
 bit of chalk and draws a line around the visitor, or 
 across a doorway. Not a word is spoken ; but if the 
 intruder elevates his eyes and goes away without 
 responding to this mute appeal to his generosity, he 
 will ever after elicit only gruff answers while in pur- 
 suit of information in that quarter. On the other 
 hand, a shilling or half-crown is a sure passport to 
 favor. In some cases a chalked boot may be made a 
 similar badge of sufferance and freedom. 
 
 Out on the deck both ladies and gentlemen are in- 
 itiated into the mysteries of "ring-toss" and "shovel- 
 board." The latter is a game peculiar to shipboard. 
 It is pktyed by means of little round blocks, which are 
 shoved along the deck into a marked enclosure with 
 an instrument not unlike a billiard-mace, and affords 
 good exercise and amusement when the ship is not 
 playing too much of a game of "pitch and toss" on 
 its own account. 
 
14 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Some one has written the following, truthful picture 
 of an ocean steamship :— 
 
 " What a little world a ship is ; with its high life aft, and 
 its low life forward ! Its passage-wa} r s are its streets, 
 lined on each side with dwelling-places, which are its state- 
 rooms. The steward's lockers are its shops, the cabins its 
 reception-rooms ; the smoking-rooms are its clubs, where 
 men go to chat, smoke, and have a quiet game of cards, or 
 make up a pool on the race-horse, — which is the ship itself, 
 against its own time. Far down in its bowels, away from 
 the light of clay, are its miners, — the perspiration rolling off 
 them in great drops, heaving the coal into the glaring fur- 
 naces. The decks are its promenades and ball-room, and 
 the log of the day's run its daily paper." 
 
 Passengers on transatlantic steamers quickly learn 
 the difficulty of keeping the correct time by their or- 
 dinary time-pieces. The difference in time between 
 New York and an ordinary English or French port, 
 does not vary materially from five hours. Conse-. 
 quently the vessel loses about half an hour per day 
 in going eastward, and gains a corresponding amount 
 in running westward. It is wisdom to let a watch 
 run down and remain dormant during the voyage, and 
 to depend solely on ." bell-time," which, after all, is 
 most reliable for all practical purposes. The follow- 
 ing table, which commences the day with the half- 
 hour succeeding midnight, will be a sufficient explana- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 
 
 15 
 
 tion of " bell-time " to the uninitiated, it being borne in 
 mind that the even strokes are always hours, and the 
 odd strokes half-hours : — 
 
 1 bell, 
 
 2 bells, 
 
 3 " 
 
 5 " 
 
 6 " 
 
 7 " 
 
 8 " 
 
 1 bell, 
 
 2 bells 
 
 3 " 
 
 4 " 
 
 5 " 
 
 6 " 
 
 7 " 
 
 8 " 
 
 1 bell, 
 
 2 bells, 
 
 3 " 
 
 4 " 
 
 5 " 
 
 6 " 
 
 7 « 
 
 8 " 
 
 12.30 o'clock. 
 
 1 " 
 1.30 " 
 
 2 " 
 2.30 "" 
 
 3 " 
 3.30 " 
 
 4.30 " 
 
 5 " 
 5.30 « 
 
 6 " 
 6.30 " 
 
 7 " 
 7.30 " 
 
 8 " 
 8.30 
 
 9 
 
 9.30 « 
 
 10 " 
 10.30 " 
 
 11 " 
 11.30 " 
 12, noon. 
 
 A. M. 
 
 lbell, . 
 
 a 
 
 2 bells, 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 4 
 
 a 
 
 it 
 
 5 
 
 it 
 
 it 
 
 6 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 7 
 
 it 
 
 tt 
 
 8 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 1 bell, . 
 
 a 
 
 2 bells, 
 
 tt 
 
 3 
 
 it 
 
 it 
 
 4 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 1 bell, . 
 
 a 
 
 2 bells, 
 
 it 
 
 3 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 4 
 
 a 
 
 it 
 
 1 bell, . 
 
 a 
 
 2 bells, 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 4 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 5 
 
 a 
 
 tt 
 
 6 
 
 n 
 
 tt 
 
 7 
 
 a 
 
 
 8 
 
 a 
 
 12.30 o 
 
 'clock, 
 
 P. M 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 1.30 
 
 a 
 
 it 
 
 2 
 
 tt 
 
 it 
 
 2.30 
 
 tt 
 
 it 
 
 3 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 3.30 
 
 a 
 
 it 
 
 4 
 
 tt 
 
 it 
 
 4.30 
 
 it 
 
 a 
 
 5 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 5.30 
 
 it 
 
 a 
 
 6 
 
 it 
 
 a 
 
 6.30 
 
 a 
 
 tt 
 
 7 
 
 a 
 
 it 
 
 7.30 
 
 tt 
 
 it 
 
 8 
 
 a 
 
 tt 
 
 8.30 
 
 it 
 
 a 
 
 9 
 
 it 
 
 a 
 
 9.30 
 
 it 
 
 a 
 
 10 
 
 a 
 
 tt 
 
 10.30 
 
 it 
 
 it 
 
 11 
 
 it 
 
 a 
 
 11.30 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 12, mid 
 
 night. 
 
 
 It should be noted that the period from 4 o'clock 
 p. m., to 8 o'clock p. m., is denominated the "Dog- 
 Watch," and is subdivided into two parts, from 4 to 
 6, and from 6 to 8, in order to prevent the larboard 
 and starboard watches of sailors from being on duty 
 during the same hours, day after day, as would be the 
 
16 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 case if the uniform division of time into watches of 
 four hours each were continued uninterruptedly. 
 
 Morning services were held in the music-room, on 
 Monday, Rev. P. M. Macdonald, of Boston, Presby- 
 terian, officiating, and in these and the other religious 
 exercises held during the voyage, a large number of 
 the passengers united. At a later hour the singing 
 element of the party was assembled in the music- 
 room for choral practice, under the direction of the 
 distinguished musical conductor, Mr. Carl Zerrahn, of 
 Boston. A goodly number united in this exercise 
 also, and several part-songs, including "Farewell to 
 the Forest," "The Song of the Lark," and "In the 
 Forest," all by Mendelssohn, were rung forth with 
 inspiring effect. 
 
 In the course of the day the following remarkable 
 announcement was posted at the head of the main 
 gangway, foreshadowing a "grand entertainment" in 
 the evening : — 
 
 Grand Marinestic 
 
 Devoniatic 
 
 Kevivication. 
 
 The Only Troupe 
 
 Tolerated in West Longitude. 
 
 ISP 3 Prima Donnas 
 
 KIP In Bloom! ^jg 
 
 GP 2 Bassos Confundo 
 
 ^ On Ice. j& 
 
 8 Tenors Loose ! 
 
 Will Eat Crumbs Out of • 
 
 ISP Your Hand! 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 17 
 
 For One Night! ! ! 
 
 The Great Moral and 
 
 Commercial Marvel, 
 
 The Only Man in 
 
 Boston 
 
 - Who Paid His Debts ! 
 
 Other Anachromatistic 
 
 and 
 
 Paradoxical Dissertations. 
 
 Post Diem Concert Just 
 
 Closed. 
 
 Millions Without Sittings. 
 
 Last Chance at 8, p. m. 
 
 Carriages at Daylight. 
 
 At the designated evening hour the passengers as- 
 sembled in full numbers in the main saloon and the 
 music-room, to await the musical and literary devel- 
 opments. These were begun with a burlesque duet 
 on the pianoforte, with the idea, apparently, to carry 
 out, with some degree of consistency, the extravagant 
 spirit of the official announcement ; and then the 
 more solid and delightful features of the entertain- 
 ment were introduced. Mr. C. M. Lewis, of Boston, 
 sang, with exceedingly fine effect, Adams's beautiful 
 song, "Warrior Bold," and upon an encore gave an 
 equally acceptable rendering of "Nancy Lee," by the 
 same composer. Mr. O. B. Bruce, of Binghamton, 
 N.Y., who it should be said conducted this and the 
 other entertainments during the voyage with much 
 grace, tact and humor, read an original poem, which 
 was received with great merriment, and subsequently 
 
18 A SUMMEK JAUNT 
 
 quoted by many of the party in a more depressed 
 state of animal spirits. The succeeding performance 
 was a song by Miss Hattie A. Snell, of Lowell, 
 Mass., whose sweet and admirably trained voice 
 served on this and subsequent occasions to delight 
 all listeners. Miss Snell's first contribution was 
 "Dormipure" by Scudere, and an encore being per- 
 sisted in, she gave a charming rendering of " Comin' 
 thro' the Rye." Mr. Arthur E. Clarke, of Manches- 
 ter, N. H., gave an admirable recitation of "The 
 Vagabonds," by Trowbridge, and a pianoforte piece foi 
 four hands, performed by Mr. Carl Suck, of Boston, 
 and Miss Lizzie Tourjee, of Auburnclale, Mass., 
 brought the entertainment to a conclusion. 
 Mr. Bruce's poem is worth transcribing : — 
 
 SONG OF DEGREES. 
 
 The summer sun was sinking fast, 
 As through the Narrows proudly passed, 
 A ship, that hore a precious freight 
 Of men and women, small and great, 
 For Europe. 
 
 Each heart was gay, each eye was hright, 
 Each spirit now with courage light, 
 Bade head and stomach hoth rejoice, 
 While hope rang out in hoastful voice, 
 Europe. 
 
 Below the deck some took their way 
 Their inner wants to fully stay, 
 While others struggled, weak and lone, 
 To stifle down that direful groan, 
 E-u-u-rope. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 19 
 
 " Try not to eat," the steward said, 
 " But Me you to your little bed, 
 And there repress your rising tide," 
 But out it gushed in spite of pride, 
 E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 
 
 " Beware the stateroom, lonely cell, 
 Beware of victuals' sight or smell," 
 This was the doctor's kind good-night, 
 A voice replied in accents light, 
 E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 
 
 At break of day, as to and fro, 
 The faithful watch on deck did go, 
 A sound was heard near starboard boat 
 That soou disclosed that well-known note, 
 E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 
 
 A tourist by the gunwale's side, 
 In heaving antics they espied, 
 One hand a lemon grasping still, 
 To awe that dreaded ocean ill, 
 E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 
 
 There in the dawning, chill and gray, 
 Hollow but satisfied he lay, 
 While from abaft came accents queer, 
 That quaked his soul with boding fear, 
 E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 
 
 Tuesday, July 2, brought with it a comparatively 
 calm sea, and a continuance of pleasant weather. At 
 noon the observations showed us to be in latitude 
 43.14 N:, and longitude 57.18 W. ; the temperature 
 was 61 degrees. We had made 284.7 miles in the 
 previous twenty-four hours, and were accordingly a 
 little short of 779 miles from Sandy Hook. The 
 
20 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 morning service was led by Eev. William P. Tilden, 
 of Boston, Unitarian. Choral practice was afterwards 
 indulged in under the direction of Mr. Zerrahn ; the 
 chorus, "He watching over Israel," from Mendels- 
 sohn's oratorio of " Elijah ;" the four-part song by 
 Barnby, M Sweet and Low ;" and Keller's spirited 
 American Hymn, being among the selections sung. 
 At 3 o'clock, p. m., Mr. A. F. Lewis of Fryeburg, 
 Me., gave an interesting lecture in the main saloon, 
 on " The Wonders and Beauties of the Yosemite Val- 
 ley," recounting some of the incidents of a personal 
 visit to that region, and embodying in his remarks 
 descriptions of much of its scenery. 
 
 An evening entertainment was given in accordance 
 with the following flaming announcement : — 
 
 Farewell Tour 
 
 of THE 
 
 c iilorofo rm atic 
 
 re j u ye x ators. 
 
 One Night Only at 
 
 Gastronomic Hall. 
 
 Every Member is a 
 
 Magxitudixous 
 
 scixtillator. 
 
 excrutiatory 
 
 Rexditioxs ! 
 
 voluijilitory 
 
 Laryxgics! 
 
 Detestatious 
 
 humorosities ! 
 
 Galaxial 
 
 Celestiety! 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 21 
 
 The exercises were made up chiefly of music, read- 
 ings, and recitations. The overture to "The Marriage 
 of Figaro," by Mozart, arranged for four hands, 
 was played^ on the pianoforte by Mrs. O. B. Bruce, 
 and Mrs. Sarah Lovell, of Montreal ; Miss Charlotte 
 S. Thompson, of New Milford, Conn., recited "The 
 Bridge of Sighs," and Mr. Bruce, the ruling spirit of 
 the entertainment, propounded a series of conundrums, 
 the answers to which were the names of authors. Then 
 came a recitation of " The Ride from Ghent to Aix," 
 by Miss E. K. Sessions, of Panama, N. Y. ; the read- 
 ing of selections from Judge Halliburton's " Sam Slick," 
 by Mr. T. W. Chesley, of Bridgetown, N. S. ; the 
 reading of an original temperance poem, entitled "The 
 Red, White, and Blue," by Mrs. Charles Springer, of 
 Anamosa, la. ; and more conundrums. The other 
 selections were a pianoforte solo, performed by Miss 
 Lizzie M. Clark, of Phillipsburg, N. J. ; a reading by 
 Mr. Bruce of one of W. L. Alden's humorous stories ; 
 a march, performed on the pianoforte (four hands) 
 and organ, by Miss Lizzie Tourjee, Mrs. Ralph Ely, 
 of Cleveland, O., and Mrs. Bruce; "The Belle of 
 Vallejo," read by Mrs. M. B. Ingham, of Cleveland, 
 O., and "Charlie Machree," recited by Miss Thomp- 
 son. 
 
 A light "tea" generally followed, or interrupted 
 midway the evening entertainments, and the festivities 
 thus prolonged extended quite up to the appointed 
 
22 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 hour — ten o'clock — for extinguishing the lights in 
 the saloons. The ship's regulations permitted state- 
 room lights an hour later, at the end of which time the 
 passengers were presumably snugly ensconced in their 
 "little beds." 
 
 One of the early incidents of the voyage was the 
 enrolment, of our party into five subdivisions, or sec- 
 tions, for the journey beyond London. This duty was 
 performed by the genial and excellent "conductor," Sig- 
 nor C. A. Barattoni, who had been sent over to America 
 by Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son, to accompany us to 
 Europe. It was through the firm of Messrs. Cook, 
 Son '& Jenkins, as the American branch of the house 
 was then known, and in conjunction with the parent 
 firm named above, that the details of the steamer 
 arrangements, and subsequent tour, were planned and 
 carried out, most of the preliminary work in this con- 
 nection having devolved upon Mr. E. M. Jenkins, the 
 American resident partner. Signor Barattoni early 
 applied himself to the task of providing for the com- 
 fort and enjoyment of those under his charge. His 
 persuasive eloquence led many who had not previously 
 determined the question, to take the Italian journey, 
 none of whom found reason to regret their decision. 
 Both as the conductor of the general party while cross- 
 ing the ocean, and at the head of the Italian division 
 while it was on its peregrinations on land, he won 
 many warm friends. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 23 
 
 Wednesday, July 3, brought with it a decided 
 change from the calm and serene condition of things 
 which had prevailed during the early stage of our 
 voyage. We were approaching the much-dreaded 
 Banks of Newfoundland ; indeed, were already upon 
 them, and a turbulent sea destroyed all preconceived 
 ideas of the fundamental principles of motion. The 
 ship was a vast swing which seemed to go two ways at 
 once, and each succeeding billow seemed intent upon 
 lifting the poor passenger's heart from his mouth. 
 There was no rush to the breakfast-table that morning, 
 and some who responded to the steward's matutinal 
 summons found excuse for early retirement. The 
 racks are on the tables, and the dishes dance about 
 right merrily. Eating under such circumstances is 
 not the pleasantest of duties, even to those who have 
 luckily preserved level heads and unaffected stomachs. 
 To clamber up the reeling hatchway is another difficult 
 feat, for the stairs have an unpleasant habit of sinking 
 out from under you, or else rising so rapidly as to 
 produce a sensation akin to walking up against the 
 sharp angles of a stone fence. Out on deck there is a 
 stiff breeze and a chilly atmosphere, but there is a 
 sense of relief in getting out into the air. Promenad- 
 ing the deck is attended by many sliclings and twist- 
 logs, and the passengers, after a few trials at pedestri- 
 anic exercise, are content to take refuge near the 
 smoke-stack or steam-pipes, or, enveloped in top-coats, 
 
24 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 shawls, and rugs, under the lee of the deck-house. 
 There is no storm, but the waters are in commotion. 
 The ocean presents a glorious sight, tossed in surging, 
 threatening masses, which topple after each other in a 
 mad race. In the course of the day many fishing-craft 
 are seen, but at no time do we run in very close prox- 
 imity to them. Games and amusements of nearly 
 every kind were given up during the day. Once, 
 however, some life and activity were put into a row of 
 invalids on the starboard side of the deck, by a cry 
 from the indefatigable Bruce, — " a whale ! a whale ! " 
 The company peered out upon the dizzy, rolling waste 
 without seeing any Avhale, and returned to their places 
 with a renewed sense of their forlorn condition. There 
 was the usual announcement of an evening entertain- 
 ment, but this even failed to call the sufferers from 
 their state-rooms or deck-chairs. The bulletin read as 
 
 follows : — 
 
 Benefit of 
 
 the 
 
 Floating Hospital ! 
 
 Unified Appearance 
 
 of THE 
 
 Lachrymosical Instigators. 
 
 Every Lady to be presented with a 
 
 Lemon, Porridge, Smelling Salts, and Taffy. 
 
 The 
 
 Sensational and 
 
 Spectacular Drama, 
 
 E-U-U-R-R-O-O-P-P-E. 
 
 ICO 
 
 Performers. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 25 
 
 The noon observations disclosed our "whereabouts 
 to be latitude 45.30 N"., and longitude 51.28 W. 
 The log showed that our progress through the pre- 
 ceding twenty-four hours had been 284.7 miles, 
 making a total of about 1,063 miles from Sandy 
 Hook ; and the thermometer recorded a temperature 
 of fifty degrees. 
 
 Thursday, July 4, was much like the previous 
 day, as far as the surface of the ocean w T as concerned, 
 only more so. The morning was cloudy, but without 
 rain. The wind, which was from the north-west, w T as 
 in our favor, and all sails were set ; but the pitching 
 and tossing of the previous night deterred us a little, 
 so that at the hour of noon we had made a run of 264 
 miles, which brought us to latitude 47.44 N., and 
 longitude 46.00 W., or about 1,327 miles from Sandy 
 Hook — not quite half way on our voyage. It must 
 be confessed that the glorious anniversary of Ameri- 
 can Independence was not in a fair way to be exten- 
 sively celebrated by the sons and daughters of 
 Columbia who chanced to be on board the "Devonia." 
 A large proportion of the party were quite willing to 
 postpone all celebrations until Neptune showed a less 
 ruffled temper, but not so the rest ; and the patriotic 
 and jubilant few made up in noise for any lack of 
 enthusiasm .on the part of the sea-sick ones, who were 
 unwillingly rehearsing Mr. Bruce's "Song of De- 
 grees." Even the charivari, or calithumpian demon- 
 
26 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 stration which generally ushers in the day on land, 
 was not forgotten,- although it came a little later than 
 common ; and the Americans were glad to avail them- 
 selves of the good-natured assistance of their genial 
 Italian friend Barattoni, who came to the rescue with 
 a harmonica, while Bruce followed with a vigorous 
 accompaniment on a sauce-pan, and Bonnelle with an 
 equally persistent agitation of the dinner-bell. These 
 sounds forced smiles even from the pale and melan- 
 choly beings who had imprisoned themselves in their 
 state-rooms. Captain Craig honored the day by a 
 display of bunting, the American ensign being given 
 the place of honor ; and salutes were fired at noon 
 and sundown. When the noon salute was fired, two 
 Yankee girls, Miss Mary E. Austin, of New Bedford, 
 Mass., and Miss E. K. Sessions, of Panama, N. Y., 
 assisted in discharging the cannon. The noon demon- 
 stration was followed by cheer upon cheer. Rev. W. 
 P. Tilden, of Boston, then read the following original 
 poem, from the hurricane-deck, and the first and last 
 verses were sung to the tune of " America," or " God 
 Save the Queen," as it may rightfully be termed 
 under the British flag : — 
 
 Land of our love and pride ! 
 While o'er the sea we glide, 
 
 Far, far away ; 
 Dear to our hearts art thou, 
 Never more dear than now, 
 While through the sea we plough, 
 
 On thy birth-day. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 27 
 
 What though the widening sea 
 Lifted 'twixt us and thee, 
 
 Hide thee from sight ; 
 Clear to our inward eye 
 Outlined against the sky, 
 Thy hills and valleys lie, 
 
 In glory bright. 
 
 Hail to thee, dear old Land ! 
 Hail to thy rocky straud, 
 
 Washed by the sea ; 
 Hail to thy matchless plains, 
 Waving with golden grains, 
 Where peace aud plenty reigns, 
 
 And man is free. 
 
 Hail to our banner brave, 
 All o'er the land and wave, 
 
 To-day unfurled ; 
 No folds to us so fair 
 Float on this summer air, 
 None can with thee compare, 
 
 In all the world. 
 
 Red, white, and blue, wave on ! 
 Never may sire or son, 
 
 Thy glory mar ; 
 Sacred to liberty, 
 Honored on land and sea, 
 Unsoiled forever be, 
 
 Each stripe and star. 
 
 Proud cheers for native land, 
 While on this deck we stand, 
 
 Pilgrims afar. 
 High let our voices soar, 
 Joining our friends ashore — 
 Hurrah ! Hurrah ! ! Hurrah ! ! ! 
 
 Hurrah!!!! Hurrah!!!!! 
 
28 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Now for our steamer brave, 
 Bearing us on the wave, 
 
 One loud Hurrah ! 
 Now for her captain true, 
 His mates and gallant crew, 
 And for Victoria, too, 
 
 Hurrah ! Hurrah ! ! 
 
 There was much merry-making at dinner and in the 
 evening, and in recognition of the fact that the day's 
 celebration had occurred in mid-ocean, the following 
 resolution, offered by Rev. Mr. Tilden, was adopted : 
 
 Resolved, That we, as a band of temperance ladies and 
 gentlemen, rejoice that on this Fourth of Jury, 1878, we are 
 half seas over. 
 
 In the afternoon, too, there were various games on 
 deck, including a three-legged race, a "tug of war," 
 blindman's buff, and various feats of strength and 
 agility. At dinner, the tables were ornamented with 
 small American flags. 
 
 Friday, July 5, dawned more graciously than the 
 two days preceding. We were about emerging from 
 the "rolling forties," and the sea had resumed its 
 composure. There was a corresponding elevation of 
 spirits on the part of the passengers. The breakfast- 
 table had its usual complement of attendants, and 
 the decks again presented an animated appearance.. 
 Morning devotions were held under the leadership of 
 Rev. C. H. Beale, of Centre Moriches, Long Island, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 29 
 
 Methodist. At a later hour there was choral practice 
 under the direction of Mr. Carl Zerrahn. There 
 were still a few sea-sick sufferers, but even these were 
 enlivened in the sunlight and invigorating air, and 
 their faces were actually put upon a broad grin by a 
 most amusing performance by Mr. Zerrahn and an 
 improvised orchestra, of a remarkable composition 
 entitled " The Musician from Bavaria." 
 
 The noon observations showed that we were making 
 good progress, the run of the preceding twenty-four 
 hours having reached 288.7 miles. Our position was 
 latitude 50.04 N., and longitude 39.36 W., or about 
 1,616 miles from Sandy Hook. The temperature was 
 sixty-one degrees. 
 
 The evening entertainment was foreshadowed by 
 the following remarkable manifesto : — 
 
 To-Night Only. 
 Tumultuous 
 Cachinnatious 
 Hallucinatious 
 
 Manualistic 
 Demonstration. 
 
 Surviving 
 Individualities 
 
 op 
 Ephemeristic 
 Heterogenities. 
 voxces non 
 Celestes ! ! ! ! 
 Ac( session) al 
 Attractions. 
 
30 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Groanes Humoresque 
 
 FROM 
 
 Nova Scotia 
 
 AND 
 
 Innumerously 
 
 * 
 
 MONTROSTICAL 
 
 Excrescences. 
 
 Ministers in Active 
 
 Pursuits — Free. 
 
 Fans for Sale in 
 
 the Corridor. 
 
 The fulfilment of these mysterious promises opened 
 with a solo on the pianoforte, after which Mr. Arthur 
 E. Clarke gave an admirable recitation of the " Old 
 Sergeant," by Forsyth Wilson. Mr. Bruce then read 
 his " Song of Degrees," by request. Miss Hattie A. 
 Snell next sang, in a very charming manner, a song 
 by Jules Lafort, entitled " Water Cresses " ; and after 
 a fine recitation by Miss E. K. Sessions, of "The 
 Pilot's Story," by Ho wells, there was an intermission 
 for tea. Resuming the entertainment, Mr. Bruce 
 read "The Managing Young Man," by W. L. Alden, 
 Mr. T. W. Chesley read an extract from " The Life of 
 an Old Judge in a Colony," by Judge Haliburton. 
 Another song was contributed, and Mr. John K. 
 Bucklyn, of Mystic Bridge, Conn , read a humorous 
 poem, in which the comic side of the sufferings from 
 sea-sickness were touched upon in a manner which 
 elicited shouts of merriment from his interested listen- 
 ers. It was in the form of a letter from a young man 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 31 
 
 to his mother, descriptive of some of the incidents of 
 the trip. A song by male voices brought the festivi- 
 ties to an end. 
 
 About eleven o'clock, Friday night, after many of 
 the passengers had retired, word came that a strange 
 light was to be seen ahead. It was at first thought by 
 Captain Craig that it might proceed from a steamer in 
 distress, and the "Devonia" bore down upon the strange 
 object. The passengers flocked upon deck and eagerly 
 watched the lights as they gleamed afar over the dark 
 waters. Soon other lights were seen, and as we drew 
 nearer it became apparent that they proceeded from a 
 fleet of some kind. The flagship carried a profusion 
 of colored lights, while four attendant craft carried 
 single white lights. Precisely what the demonstration 
 was, or even the nationality of the ships, could not be 
 ascertained, but it is fair to presume that they com- 
 prised an English cable fleet, engaged in the work of 
 repairs, their position being on the track of one 
 of the submarine telegraphic lines. The impending 
 difficulties between England and Russia caused many 
 conjectures of a different character to be indulged in 
 by the passengers of the 'VDevonia," whose enforced 
 absence from the much coveted "morning paper," and 
 a corresponding ignorance regarding the daily doings 
 of the great world, had made any sort of a hostile 
 demonstration seem possible. Upon learning that the 
 stranger desired no assistance, a conclusion that was 
 
32 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 arrived at through neglect to answer signals of inquiry, 
 Captain Craig resumed his course. The incident was 
 a very unusual one, and it served to vary the monot- 
 ony of the voyage, and to cause no small amount of 
 interest and excitement among the passengers, who 
 had strained their eyes for many clays to descry the 
 half-dozen steamers and sailing vessels which had been 
 met with here and there on the great desert of waters. 
 The loneliness of a vessel on the ocean soon strikes 
 the voyager very forcibly. The forests of masts which 
 cluster about the wharves of our cities, and all precon- 
 ceived ideas of commerce between the nations, lead 
 the traveller to expect frequent spectacles of passing 
 ships and steamers, at least upon the great ocean high- 
 ways between Europe and America; and yet "a sail" 
 is an exceptional sight. With this discovery comes a 
 new realization of the immensity of the ocean — not of 
 the ocean we see ourselves, but of the vast expanse 
 that lies beyond our range of vision. The "boundless 
 ocean," as seen from the deck of a ship, is really much 
 more circumscribed than the impressionable landsman 
 is led to suppose. The horizon, when the eye is 
 twenty-four feet above tlie water, is only six miles 
 distant, and the steamer is virtually sailing through a 
 circular pond twelve miles in diameter. Of course, 
 ships, icebergs and other objects are seen at a much 
 greater distance, because they project above the sur- 
 face. The "depression of the horizon" can readily be 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 33 
 
 computed by this simple rule : two-thirds of the square 
 of the distance in miles is the depression in feet. For 
 one mile, then, the depression is eight inches ; that is, 
 if the eye is just eight inches above the water, the 
 horizon, or limit of vision, is a mile off. To sec two 
 miles in any direction across the water, the eye must 
 be two«-thirds of four feet (or thirty-two inches) above 
 the surface ; to see three miles, it must be at a height 
 of six feet, and so on. The rule is accurate for all 
 distances within the range of vision. 
 
 But if ocean voyagers have not a numerous array of 
 ships to distract their attention, they are not wholly 
 shut out from spectacles of life and animation. There 
 are the porpoises, sharks, whales, gulls, and "Mother 
 Carey's chickens " to be watched. The gulls will fol- 
 low a steamer for long distances over the trackless 
 waters, intent upon obtaining any waste stuff that is 
 thrown overboard. Our vessel frequently ran among 
 large schools of porpoises. At such times the sur-: 
 face of the water would be dotted with the black 
 creatures, frequently for a great distance. Around 
 the ship scores of them would be leaping forward 
 from the water in a swift helter-skelter race with the 
 huge dark monster beside them. Ordinarily a slug- 
 gish creature, the porpoise can make excellent time 
 when he feels impelled to rapid movement, and a 
 school of them will sometimes keep up with a ship 
 for a considerable distance. 
 
34 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Saturday, July 6, was, like its immediate predeces- 
 sor, a very delightful day, with a bracing breeze, which 
 helped us on our way. The exercises of the clay were 
 greatly enjoyed. There were morning devotions, with 
 Rev. O. D. Kimball, of Leominster, Mass., Baptist, 
 as the officiating clergyman, and subsequently choral 
 practice under Mr. Zerrahn's direction. At noon we 
 were in latitude 52.20 N., and longitude 33.00 w| 
 some 1,900 miles from Sandy Hook, or something less 
 than 1,100 miles from our destination. The day's run 
 had been 283.3 miles, and the recorded temperature 
 was fifty-nine degrees. An evening entertainment 
 was given in pursuance of the following high-sounding 
 bulletin : — 
 
 PONDERIFIC LUGUBRIOSITY. 
 
 DlAPHONISTIC 
 
 Reverbe K ATORS 
 
 Universally Triumphant. 
 
 Invited by Crowned Heads 
 
 to Leave their Realms. 
 
 Cacophonatic 
 
 Cachinnators. 
 
 Ethical Delineators. 
 
 Lingual Sonorists. 
 
 Duettic Tiirillarians. 
 
 quartettic symphonists. 
 
 Lunatistical Thrummists. 
 
 Solodic Yawpists. 
 
 Juveniliated Spoutators. 
 
 La Femme de Temporibus 
 
 Anti-quississimus Mundane. 
 
 Interspersed with Calm Tea 
 
 and other mild 
 
 Refreshments. 
 
 Devour at 8.30 P. M. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 35 
 
 The opening performance was a march, by Schubert, 
 arranged for pianoforte and organ, and played by 
 Mrs. Bruce, Miss Lula Butler, of Memphis, Tenn., 
 and Mrs. Lovell, of Montreal. Rev. C. H. Beale 
 then read a poem of a humorous character, descriptive 
 of some of the incidents of the voyage, and filled 
 with pleasant allusions to Dr. Tourjee, Mr. Zerrahn, 
 Mr. Bruce, and other members of the party. Mr. 
 Bruce next proceeded to give a lecture on " Hash," 
 in which many new and astounding facts in regard to 
 that mysterious subject were disclosed. The lecture 
 was illustrated by " our own artist," Mr. Ira C. Denise, 
 of Franklin, Warren County, Ohio. "The Two 
 Roses," by Mendelssohn, was sung by a quartette of 
 male voices, and Mr. A. F. Lewis read a parody on 
 "Maud Muller." Mrs. M. B. Ingham next read an 
 interesting account of Signor Barattoni's Observations 
 in China, as contained in one of his published letters. 
 Signor Barattoni, although a young man, has trav- 
 elled very extensively, having twice been around the 
 world, and many times to all parts of Europe. Miss 
 Sessions contributed a song, " Robert toi que faime" 
 from Meyerbeer's "Robert le Diable," and then there 
 was an intermission for tea. After this interesting 
 exercise, the intellectual entertainment was resumed, 
 the concluding features being a recitation by Mr. F. 
 L. Steele, of Winchester, Mass., and a reading by 
 Mr. Bruce, of ff The Carthaginian," from W. L. 
 Alden's "Shooting Stars," 
 
36 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 On Sunday, July 7, occurred one of those sad and 
 impressive scenes, sometimes, yet not often, witnessed 
 on board an ocean steamer — a burial at sea. A poor 
 fellow, who was working his passage among the 
 stokers, and who was too ill to work at all, but had 
 been given a place in order that he might reach the 
 old country, had fallen while ascending from the fur- 
 naces to the deck, and, lodging upon a vent-hole, had 
 been suffocated. Under the presumption that he was 
 feigning illness, and wished to shirk his duty, he had 
 been kicked and cuffed about by the sailors, and it is 
 feared that he was too weak to hold on to the ladder 
 when he was ascending from the fire-room, where he 
 had been at work. The burial took place at noon — 
 eight bells. Dr. Scott, the ship's surgeon, read the 
 burial service of the Church of England, commencing: 
 
 " I am the resurrection and the life, saith the Lord : He 
 that believeth in me, though he were dead, jet shall he live ; 
 and whosoever liveth and believeth in me shall never die." 
 
 Omitting a portion, he continued : — 
 
 " We therefore commit his body to the deep, to be turned 
 into corruption, looking for the resurrection of the body 
 (when the sea shall give up her dead) , and the life of the 
 world to come, through our l^ord Jesus Christ ; who at His 
 coming shall change our vile body, that it may be like His 
 glorious bod} T , according to the mighty working whereby He 
 is able to subdue all things to Himself." 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 37 
 
 The folds of the British flag, which had previously 
 covered the remains, were withdrawn, and two stal- 
 wart sailors launched the corpse, which had been 
 sewn in a canvas bag and weighted at the feet, from 
 a board to the waves. A plash was heard, and all 
 that was mortal of the friendless outcast disappeared 
 forever from human sight. The doctor closed the 
 services by reading the Lord's prayer and pronounc- 
 ing the benediction, and the sailors cast adrift the 
 boards on which the dead body had rested. The de- 
 ceased was a young Irishman, about thirty-five years 
 old, and was named on the ship's list James Smieton. 
 
 Eeligious services were held in the saloon, both 
 forenoon and afternoon, and they were rendered more 
 than usually impressive by the sad incident just re- 
 lated. The morning service was conducted by Rev. 
 A. B. Peabody, of Stratham, N. H., Congregational- 
 ist. After the singing of the hymn, "Come, thou 
 fount of every blessing," the reading of the second 
 Psalm and a portion of the twenty-fifth chapter of 
 Matthew, a fervent prayer, in which the death that 
 had occurred on board was touchingly alluded to, and 
 the singing of a second hymn, "I love thy kingdom, 
 Lord," Mr. Peabody preached a discourse from the 
 text contained in a portion of the thirty-sixth verse of 
 the eighteenth chapter of John : " Jesus answered, My 
 kingdom is not of this world." He spoke of the char- 
 acteristics of Christ's kingdom as manifested in our 
 
38 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 own souls, as having small beginnings and great re- 
 suits. With holiness in the soul comes the kingdom 
 of Christ. The greatness of the sea was referred to 
 as typical of the greatness of God's work. While the 
 nations are of the earth, God's kingdom is eternal. 
 
 The afternoon service was conducted by Rev. Geo. 
 W. Fisher, of Peacedale, R. I., Congregationalist. 
 Portions of the hymn beginning, " From every stormy 
 wind that blows," were sung, and Mr. Fisher then, 
 with much appropriateness, read portions of a sug- 
 gestive •" Sermon on the Sea," delivered by the late 
 Rev. Dr. Swain, of Providence, R. I. The services 
 were concluded by the singing of two stanzas of the 
 hymn entitled " Your Mission : " 
 
 " If you cannot on the ocean sail 
 Among the swiftest fleet." 
 
 At a later hour a Bible-class was conducted by Mr. 
 John K. Buddy n, of Mystic Bridge, Conn., Baptist; 
 and in the evening a praise-meeting was held, under 
 the guidance of Dr. Tourjee, a large number uniting 
 in the exercises. 
 
 The noon observations on Sunday showed that we 
 had made 288. 8- miles in twenty-four hours (about 
 2,188 miles from Sandy Hook), our position being 
 latitude 54.00 N., and longitude 25.28 W. The 
 thermometer recorded a temperature of GO. 5 de- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. ' 39 
 
 There was a rain-storm during the night of Sunday, 
 and during the ensuing day ; but aside from the fact 
 that this placed deck exercise partly out of question, 
 for the time being, and "shovel-board" wholly in 
 abeyance, on account of the wet condition of the decks, 
 the weather continued favorable to health and comfort. 
 The usual morning devotions were held, Rev. John P. 
 Watson, of Marshapaug, Conn., Congregationalist, 
 officiating. There was also choral practice under Mr. 
 Zerrahn's direction. At noon it was found that we 
 had made a glorious run — 305 miles — in the previous 
 twenty-four hours. Our position was latitude 55.08 
 N., and longitude 16.58 W., which brought us about 
 2,493 miles from Sandy Hook, or to within less than 
 five hundred miles of our destination. The tempera- 
 ture was fifty-nine degrees. 
 
 In the afternoon an interesting lecture was delivered 
 in the saloon, by Rev. J. Thorburn, of Ottawa, P. O., 
 on "Edinburgh." Some of the chief attractions of 
 that beautiful Scottish city were described, and the 
 lecturer embodied in his remarks many practical sug- 
 gestions regarding the visit of the party to that and 
 other interesting portions of Scotland. 
 
 The bulletin for the evening performances made its 
 appearance in the following form :— 
 
 Unprecedentual 
 
 Penultimatical 
 
 Cantabilactorism ! 
 

 40 A SUMMEE JAUNT 
 
 CORRUSCATIVE TONALITIES 
 BY THE 
 
 Indigenactic Coterie 
 
 of 
 
 tourjee-ans 
 
 IN 
 
 Eejuvenated 
 Paraphernalias. 
 
 DlORAMAICAL 
 
 Illusitories. 
 
 Speareshakerian, 
 
 Mandarinic and 
 
 Felineal Oratistics. 
 
 Eventuated and » 
 
 Senile atic Witticisities. 
 
 !^T Let's Go! .jg 
 
 Previous to the regular entertainment, Signor 
 Barattoni made some explanatory statements regard- 
 ing the forthcoming journey. A duet, " Mira la 
 bianca Luna" by Rossini, was then sung by Miss 
 Snell and Miss Charlotte H. Munger, of Worcester, 
 Mass. Miss Sessions next recited a scene from Shake- 
 speare's "Antony and Cleopatra." Mr. A. F. Lewis 
 favored the company with a humorous song, " The 
 Three Sailors of Bristol City." An interesting inci- 
 dent connected with this evening's proceedings, was 
 a collection in behalf of the Life-Boat Service of Great 
 Britain. In introducing the subject, Mr. Bruce made 
 some eloquent and feeling remarks, calling attention 
 to the value of the service, not only to sailors, whose 
 life was spent upon the ocean, but also to passengers, 
 like ourselves, who might equally claim its benefits. 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 41 
 
 The contributions reached something over forty dollars. 
 A like sum was contributed during the day, mainly 
 through the instrumentality of Mr. Zerrahn, for a party 
 of poor steerage passengers. 
 
 Just before breakfast-time, on the morning of 
 Tuesday, July 9, the welcome sound of "land ho!" 
 was heard from one of the sailors forward, and there 
 was a general rush of the passengers to the decks to 
 catch an early glimpse of the pleasant sight. A light 
 mist prevailed, but the rocky headlands of the Island 
 of Arranmore, off the the western coast of Donegal, 
 Ireland, were soon in plain view. The clouds soon 
 broke up altogether, and as the bright sun appeared, 
 the gray tinge of the waters gave place to tints of 
 deep blue, contrasting with the living greens along 
 the coast, which were relieved here and there by little 
 stretches of white sandy beach. Against the cliffs, or 
 along the beach, are seen momentary flashes of white 
 foam„ Through the day we continued to sail but a 
 short distance from the shore, and the picturesque 
 scenery of the northern Irish coast was greatly en- 
 joyed. The sea-sick and the home-sick were cer- 
 tainly revived by the beautiful panorama of green 
 slopes and graceful headlands. 
 
 The morning services were held on the upper deck, 
 Eev. E. S. Chase, of Hopkinton, Mass., Methodist, 
 conducting the devotions. Our course lying up the 
 Donegal coast, we went between the mainland and 
 
42 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Tory Island, and as we were at no time far from the 
 shore, the view was enchanting. Among the early 
 features which arrest the eye of the voyager in the 
 approach to the Irish coast, are the ancient stone tow- 
 ers which are seen from time to time upon the head- 
 lands. By noon the Island of Inishtrahull, which lies 
 off the extreme northern extremity of Ireland, was 
 descried. Off Inishowen Head, which marks the en- 
 trance to Lough Foyle, whereon the landing-place of 
 Moville lies, the steamer was telegraphed, but no stop 
 was made. Between three and four o'clock in the 
 afternoon we passed the Giant's Causeway, and Captain 
 Craig very kindly ran the vessel as near the shore as 
 he could with safety, in order that the passengers might 
 obtain a near view of this interesting bit of scenery. 
 We had already passed the little towns of Port Stew- 
 art and Portrush (the latter of which is distinguished 
 as having been the home of Adam Clarke) , the Sker- 
 ries, and Dunluce Castle, a cluster of ruins which 
 stands on a ledge of rock one hundred and twenty 
 feet above the sea. In the appearance of the Giant's 
 Causeway, as seen from the ocean, the traveller is 
 very likely to be disappointed. It is not as extensive 
 or as imposing as he had expected, and pretty much 
 the same testimony is borne by those who have studied 
 its various features on shore, although a close inspec- 
 tion of the wonderful basaltic formation must surely 
 be interesting. Along the coast at this point are sev- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 43 
 
 eral large caverns, one of them being directly under 
 Dunluce Castle. Continuing on by Bengore Head, 
 we passed between Rathlin Isle and the main coast, 
 soon gaming: a view of the Scottish coast at the south- 
 era extremity of the peninsula of Can tyre. 
 
 Leaving Benmore, or Fair Head, upon our right, 
 we steamed across the North Channel, and in the early 
 evening reached the Frith of Clyde, near the entrance 
 to which, rising for a height of over a thousand feet 
 from the water is the bleak Island of Ailsa Craig, to 
 which the Covenanters were banished. 
 
 The evening sail up the Frith of Clyde to Greenock, 
 where the "Devonia" cast anchor between ten and eleven 
 o'clock, was very delightful. In this northern latitude 
 twilight continues until nearly this hour, and the beau- 
 tiful scenery in the vicinity of Arran Isle, one of the 
 country seats of the Duke of Hamilton, Holy Isle, 
 upon which a mountain rises from the water's edge, 
 and at the many other interesting points, could be 
 closely scanned. Opposite Arran Isle lie Ayr (the 
 birthplace of Burns) , and Irvine. Several picturesque 
 little watering places are passed, and we sail between 
 the small and rocky Cumbray Islands on the right, and 
 the Isle of Bute on the left. The latter is better cul- 
 tivated than Arran Isle, or any parts of the mainland 
 we have passed. On the east coast of this island lies 
 the town of Rothesay, beautifully situated, and Mount- 
 stuart, the seat of the Marquis of Bute, the present 
 Governor-General of Canada. Far away, in the dim 
 distance, are the Highlands of Perthshire. The Kyles 
 
44 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 of Bute, a winding channel which separates the island 
 from the neighboring shores of Argyle, are on the 
 left, as are also Toward Light and the old town of 
 Dunoon, one of the places where the Irish emigrants 
 from the North of Ireland settled in the sixth century. 
 From this point to the busy manufacturing town of 
 Greenock, where the Clyde River empties into the 
 Frith, and forms Greenock Roads, wherein we cast 
 anchor, is but a little distance. 
 
 Friendly demonstrations were made at several points 
 along our course, and answering cheers were sent back 
 from the steamer's deck. Hearty cheers were also 
 given by the passengers for Dr. Tourjee, Captain 
 Craig, and his gallant officers and crew, Carl Zerrahn, 
 Mr. Bruce, Signor Barattoni and others. 
 
 The noon observations on the closing clay of our 
 voyage, taken, of course, while we were off the Irish 
 coast, went almost unheeded ; but they are worth re- 
 cording, more especially as they disclosed the best day's 
 run of the whole voyage — 317.4 miles. Our position 
 was shown to be latitude 55.20 N., and longitude 7.42 
 W. ; the temperature was sixty-two degrees. 
 
 The closing social meeting on board the steamer, 
 was held late Tuesday evening, in obedience to the 
 following announcement : — 
 
 Farewell ! 
 
 Climaxial Finality 
 
 Exodicious 
 
 Ambulatatious 
 
 Eruditical 
 Eesolvatators. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 45 
 
 EUPIIONISTIC 
 LlNGUALISMS. 
 
 Phantomimic 
 Orthographists. 
 i Catxip-tioxal 
 
 DlSSERTATIVES. 
 DlSSOLVETETIC 
 
 Pronunciamento. 
 At 10 5-10, p. m. 
 
 The proceedings were of a somewhat different char- 
 acter than on previous evenings. Mr. Bruce presided, 
 as usual, and made some felicitous remarks upon the 
 prosperous and happy termination of the voyage, and 
 upon the pleasant prospect the members of the party had 
 before them. He also paid an eloquent tribute to Old 
 Scotia, the land we had reached. In conclusion, he 
 announced the appointment of Mr. Frank J. Bonnelle, 
 of Boston, Kev. Dr. Coster, of Pittsburgh, and Mr. 
 Bucklyn, of Mystic Bridge, Conn., as a committee to 
 draw up a series of resolutions. The following reso- 
 lutions were reported, and unanimously adopted : — 
 
 Resolved, That the close attention of Captain Craig, and 
 those under his command, in providing for our wants and 
 conducing to our comfort, as well as their uniform courtesy 
 throughout the voyage, deserve and receive our warmest 
 commendation. 
 
 Resolved, That the watchful care of Dr. Tourjee over the 
 welfare of all, and the willing services of Carl Zerrahn in 
 directing the musical exercises, call for a heartfelt acknowl- 
 edgment, which we now express. 
 
 Resolved, That we thoroughly appreciate the untiring, but 
 very successful efforts of Prof. O. B. Bruce in conducting 
 
46 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the series of entertainments, day and evening, and tender 
 him our hearty thanks for the part he has taken in the many 
 ways in which he has added to the enjoyment and improve- 
 ment of the entire party. 
 
 Resolved, That we hereby return our thanks to Mrs. O. 
 B. Bruce, »Miss E. K. Sessions, Miss Hattie A. Snell, and 
 the several other ladies and gentlemen who have contributed 
 in a musical and literary way to our entertainment in the 
 past ten clays. 
 
 On motion of Mr. Chesley, of Bridgetown, Nova 
 Scotia, the following resolution was also adopted : — 
 
 Resolved, That the thanks of the ladies and gentlemen 
 comprising this present party of tourists, be cordially ten- 
 dered to Mr. C. A. Barattoni, the conductor of the party, 
 for his effective and able administration of his office hither- 
 to, and also of their confidence in the able and effective con- 
 ducting of our party to the termination of our tour of 
 Europe. 
 
 Eev. Mr. Bealc read a valedictory address, summing 
 up some of the happy incidents of the voyage, and 
 further remarks were made by Mr. Lewis, of Frye- 
 burg, Me., and Mr. Bucklyn. Dr. Z. Freeman, of 
 Cincinnati, O., proposed that a further formal vote of 
 thanks be passed to Dr. Tourjee for his skilful and 
 happy planning of the excursion, and this was accord- 
 ingly done; after which "Old Hundred" was sung, 
 and the assemblage dissolved to obtain a few brief 
 hours' sleep before an early start for Glasgow and the 
 Scottish lakes. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 47 
 
 CHAPTEE II. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 \.n Early Visit to Glasgow — St. George's Square, the Cathedral, 
 &c. — A Charming Excursion through Loch Lomond, Loch 
 Katrine, and the Trosachs — The Land of Kob Roy — The 
 Scenes of Scott's "Lady of the Lake." — Stirling and its Ancient 
 Castle — Edinburgh and its Beautiful Situation — Its Monu- 
 ments and Historic Sites — Calton Hill — Holyrood Palace, and 
 its Keminiscences of Mary Queen of Scots — A Walk through 
 Old Edinburgh— The Castle and its Sights— The Queen's 
 Drive — The University and its School of Music — A Memorial 
 to Canine Fidelity — Eeception by the Sabbath-School Teach- 
 ers' Union — Interesting Addresses — The Journey to Melrose — 
 Melrose Abbey — Abbotsford and its Relics. 
 
 We remained on the steamer all night, and were 
 iroused at an early hour in the morning. We had 
 boped to reach Glasgow on the 9th, in which case we 
 should have passed the night in that city, but the 
 lateness of the hour when we reached Greenock, and 
 the further delay which would have ensued at the 
 bands of the customs officers, and in landing, ren- 
 dered our detention on board until the morrow ad- 
 visable. After an early breakfast, and a due attention 
 bo the requirements of Her Majesty's custom-house 
 officials, a task which occupied little time, and put us 
 bo very little inconvenience, we were set ashore in a 
 
48 
 
 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 small steam-tender, which had to make two or three 
 trips to convey the entire party and the luggage. 
 Taking the railway train at the Prince's Pier Station, 
 we were quickly whisked up the south bank of the 
 Clyde, through Paisley, and several smaller places, to 
 the St. Enoch Station, in Glasgow, a distance of 
 twenty-four and a half miles, arriving before seven 
 o'clock. 
 
 Our visit was made before Glasgow fairly had its 
 eyes open, and the carriage-drivers, several very cour- 
 teous and civil policemen, a few market-men and the 
 crossing-sweepers only turned out to greet the Amer- 
 icans on their arrival. The solicitations of the first 
 class named were, for the most part, unheeded, the 
 distance across to the North British Railway Station 
 being comparatively short, and the appeals to the 
 policemen were mainly with a view to being directed 
 to the post-office — not yet opened, — where, in due 
 time, the officials were doubtless much astonished at 
 the sudden influx of American correspondence. 
 
 The principal streets and/squares of Glasgow instant- 
 ly impress the stranger favorably. On every hand are 
 stores and marts of trade, which toll of the city's com- 
 mercial importance. This is foretold before the city 
 itself is reached, in the lines of manufactories and ship- 
 building establishments that line the Clyde. Glasgow 
 is the third city in the United Kingdom in point of 
 wealth, population, and commercial interests. The 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 49 
 
 population, within parliamentary boundaries, at the 
 last census (1876) was 527,553, while the total popu- 
 lation of the city and its suburbs was 697,775. St. 
 George's Square is situated near the centre of the 
 city, and within a short distance of the three chief 
 railway stations. This is the principal square in the 
 city, and it is richly ornamented with bronze statues. 
 The chief monument is a Grecian Doric column, about 
 eighty feet in height, surmounted by a colossal statue 
 of Walter Scott. The pedestal bears the simple and 
 comprehensive inscription, "Walter Scott." There are 
 also statues of Sir John Moore and Lord Clyde, — both 
 natives of Glasgow ; of James Watt, who made here 
 his experiments in steam ; Thomas Graham, Sir Robert 
 l 3 eel, Robert Burns, James Oswald, Queen Victoria, and 
 Prince Albert. The two latter are equestrian, and by 
 Marochetti. The statue of Watt is by Chantrey. Watt 
 prepared the way for Henry Bell, who, in 1812, 
 launched on the Clyde the first steamboat ever known 
 in British waters. A monument to Bell stands upon 
 Dunglass Rock, near Dumbarton. The early steam- 
 boat was called " The Comet," and plied between Glas- 
 gow and Greenock. Around the square are some of 
 the principal hotels, and upon one side is the post- 
 office. Near at hand, on Queen Street, is the Royal 
 Exchange, a large, handsome stone building, in front 
 of which is an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wel- 
 lington , by Marochetti . The principal street — Argyle , 
 
50 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 named after the noble family of Argyle, — runs parallel 
 with the river Clyde. At right angles with this main 
 thoroughfare run many other business streets. Argyle 
 Street, running eastward, leads into Trongate (so 
 called from a' Tron, or public weigh-house, which 
 formerly stood upon it), and thence on to "The 
 Cross," where the celebrated Tontine Buildings, once 
 the focus of business and politics, still stand, and 
 near which formerly stood the old Tolbooth, or city 
 prison, the scene of the midnight adventure of Francis 
 Osbaldistone and Eob Roy. The cathedral is situated 
 on a height in the north-east part of the city. St. 
 Kentigern, or St. Mungo, founded a bishopric here 
 about the year 500, and erected a church of wood 
 where the present fine edifice was founded by Bishop 
 Joceline in 1181. The architecture is of the early 
 English style, and the edifice is gloomy, massive, and 
 imposing. The Necropolis rises above the cathedral, 
 and with its shrubbery and. multitudes of monuments, 
 forms a noble background for the ancient structure. 
 At the summit of the hill is a towering monument to 
 John Knox. Glasgow University, a handsome and 
 extensive group of buildings, is at the opposite ex- 
 tremity of the city, overlooking West End Park. 
 
 On account of the great numbers of our party, it 
 was found advisable to divide it into two sections 
 for the excursion through Loch Lomond, Loch Kat- 
 rine, and the Trosachs, one section being taken first to 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 51 
 
 Balloch Pier, and thence northward through Loch 
 Lomond ; and the other taking the reverse direction, 
 via Stirling, Callander, the Trosachs, &c., and south- 
 ward through Loch Lomond. Edinburgh, forty-six 
 miles from Glasgow, was to be the destination of both 
 divisions. It was my good fortune to be included in 
 the division that went first to Loch Lomond. The 
 distance from Glasgow to Balloch Pier is about 
 twenty-one miles, and when the traveller is once out 
 of the city, and clear of the tunnels and high embank- 
 ments, the prospect is very delightful. The waters of 
 the Clyde are at times in view, and sixteen miles from 
 Glasgow, near the river, is the great clefted rock on 
 which stands Dumbarton Castle. Here, it will be 
 remembered, the hero Wallace was imprisoned, hav- 
 ing been betrayed by the base Sir John Menteith, who 
 invited him hither under the guise of friendship, and 
 then thrust him into a dungeon. Mary Queen of 
 Scots, too, lived here during the early portion of her 
 childhood. 
 
 Arriving at Balloch, we were transferred to one of 
 the little steamers which ply on Loch Lomond, and 
 amid a slight " Scotch mist," a sort of heavy dew, 
 which scarcely served to keep us from the decks, we 
 began our trip through this beautiful sheet of water. 
 A most tempting breakfast served much better than 
 the moisture to clear the upper decks, and it is almost 
 needless to acid,' that, with appetites sharpened by the 
 
52 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 recent sea-voyage, and more keenly appreciative of 
 the delights of shore-cooking, full and ample justice 
 was done thereto, notwithstanding it was the second 
 breakfast that had been furnished us since the early 
 morning. 
 
 Loch Lomond, rightfully called the "Queen of the 
 Scottish Lakes," is about twenty-three miles in length, 
 and at the southern extremity, where it is widest, is 
 about five miles in breadth, from which it gradually 
 grows narrower, terminating, northward, in a strip of 
 water. On both sides, and on the north, are moun- 
 tains, some of which rise from the water's edge, while 
 here and there, scattered along the shores, are pictur- 
 esque country seats, or little villages. Balloch and 
 Boturich Castles are seeii upon the right soon after 
 leaving Balloch Pier. The loftiest of the mountains is 
 proud Ben Lomond, 3,192 feet in height, situated a 
 few miles east of the lake, and some two-thirds of the 
 way from its southern extremity. During our passage 
 up the_ lake,' Ben Lomond kept his brow wrapped in 
 mist, and we caught only momentary glimpses of this 
 monarch of the region. In the broad section of the 
 lake, a number of small islands are passed. The 
 largest of these is Inch Murrin (Inch, in the Gaelic, 
 means island) , which is preserved as a deer-park by 
 the Duke of Montrose, who resides at Buchanan 
 House, a short distance from the lake, on the eastern 
 shore. At its southern extremity are the ruins of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 53 
 
 Lennox Castle, formerly a residence of the Earls of 
 Lennox. Here Isabel, Duchess of Albany, resided 
 after the execution of her husband, sons, and father, 
 at Stirling, in 1424. From the little island known as 
 Clairinch, the Buchanans took their slogan, or war-cry. 
 Inch Cailliach (the Island of Women) is so called 
 from having been the site of a nunnery in the dim 
 past. It also contains the old parish church of Bu- 
 chanan, and the burial-ground of the MacGregors. 
 Inchfad is the Long Island ; Inchcruin, the Round 
 Island ; Inchlonaig, the Isles of Yew-trees ; Inch- 
 tavanach, Monk's Isle, &c. It is said that Inchlonaig 
 was used at the beginning of the present century as a 
 retreat for drunken wives. The husband was wont to 
 land the offender with a loaf of bread and a pitcher of 
 cold water, and there she would remain captive until 
 the forgiving lord chose to take pity on his repentant 
 spouse. On Inchcruin was once an asylum for the 
 insane. 
 
 The scenery upon the lake is beautiful beyond 
 description. It is a constant succession of charming 
 pictures, into which the expanse of clear water, 
 dotted here and there with emerald islets, rugged 
 mountain cliffs, verdant shores, and cosy cottages, or 
 the more imposing manor-house, nestling amid the 
 luxuriant foliage, enter with ever-varying form and in 
 different combinations. Here in Scotland, as in Ire- 
 land, the moist atmosphere bestows a rich, living 
 
54 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 green upon grass and foliage. Balmaha, near a nar- 
 row pass through which, in the olden time, the High- 
 landers frequently came on their raids into the Low- 
 lands ; Luss,'near which the celebrated battle be- 
 tween the MacGregors and the Colquhouns, fraught 
 with such fatal consequences to both parties, was 
 fought, and near which, also, the latter family holds 
 to-day its baronial home at Rossdhu House ; Roward- 
 ennan, the point from which Ben Lomond, six miles 
 distant, is usually ascended ; and Tarbet, a delightful 
 retreat with a most inviting looking inn (situated on 
 the estate of Laird M'Murrich), from whence tourists 
 ride only two miles to reach the head of Loch Long, 
 are passed all too soon, and Inversnaid, the end of 
 our present lake journey, is reached. Just before the 
 pier is reached, the beautiful Fall of Inversnaid, the 
 the scene of Wordsworth's " Highland Girl," is seen. 
 It is at the mouth of Arklet Water, the stream which 
 drains the little Loch Arklet, afterwards passed on 
 the road to Stronachlacher. 
 
 It seems remarkable, when we reflect that a little 
 over a century and a half ago — as late as the year 
 1712 — this district was peopled by that predatory 
 race whose exploits furnished Sir Walter Scott with 
 the exciting scenes of his novel of "Rob Roy." A 
 little to the north are the ruins of Inversnaid fort, 
 erected in 1713 by the government, for the purpose of 
 checking the turbulence of the MacGregor clan. This 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 55 
 
 fort was at one time the headquarters of General 
 Wolfe. Not far from Loch Arklet are several primi- 
 tive huts, one of which is pointed out as the original 
 residence of Rob Roy, and another as the birthplace 
 of Helen, his wife. Rob Roy's cave, where the bold 
 outlaw hid himself from his pursuers, is above Inver- 
 snaid, on the shore of the lake ; and Rob Roy's 
 prison is an almost inaccessible rock some distance 
 below this point. Opposite Inversnaid is Inveruglas 
 Isle, on which are the ruins of an old stronghold of 
 the Macfarlanes. History records that in 1306, King 
 Robert the Bruce, with five hundred followers, while 
 fleeing before the avenging Lord of Lorn, who had 
 married a daughter of the Red Comyn, whom Bruce 
 had sacrilegiously slain within the monastery of Grey- 
 friars at Dumfries, crossed Loch Lomond, near In- 
 versnaid, their only means of ferriage being a little, 
 leaky boat which would carry only three passengers 
 at a time. At an earlier period (1263, in the reign 
 of Alexander III. of Scotland) the placid Loch Lo- 
 mond was the scene of an invasion by the Norwegians, 
 who cruelly plundered and murdered the people after 
 the latter had fled to the islands for safety. 
 
 From Inversnaid to Stronachlacher, which is situ- 
 ated near the head of the beautiful Loch Katrine, is 
 about five and a half miles, and we rode thither in 
 "brakes" over an excellent road. Here, as at Invers- 
 naid, there is nothing except a comfortable little inn, 
 
56 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 a gentleman's country-house, and a steamboat-landing 
 to denote the place ; but the grounds about the inn 
 are nicely kept, while the neighboring hillsides not 
 only teem with flowers, but afford grand prospects of 
 lake and mountains, so that the time passed in waiting 
 for the steamer was most pleasantly occupied. In the 
 little steamer "Rob Roy" the other members of our 
 party arrive, and after hurried greetings, we take 
 their places on board to pursue our journey over the 
 route they have already travelled. 
 
 Loch . Katrine and its neighborhood are so inti- 
 mately associated with Scott's romance of the " Lady 
 of the Lake," that the work almost serves as a 
 guide-book, and the drivers and local guides readiry 
 supply every item of information lacking in its pages, 
 pointing out with wonderful certainty the exact spot 
 of every occurrence there referred to. It is an inspir- 
 ing place in which to read the entrancing poem ; but 
 this had better not be attempted unless the traveller 
 has plenty of time while halting, else the pleasant 
 occupation must surely prevent him from seeing and 
 enjoying the scenery. The lake is small, compared 
 with Loch Lomond, being only seven and a half miles 
 long. The scenery is wilder and more romantic, and 
 the same intense green covers forest and mountain- 
 side. Ellen's Isle is a gracefully rounded and densely 
 wooded island quite near the south-eastern extremity 
 of the lake. Northward rises Ben A'n to the height 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 57 
 
 of 1,800 feet, and on the opposite shore, Ben Venue 
 rears his head to a loftier height — 2,386 feet. It 
 was a spur of the former the brave Fitz-James 
 climbed upon — 
 
 " And thus an airy point he won, 
 Where, gleaming with the setting sun, 
 One burnished sheet of living gold, 
 Loch Katrine lay beneath him rolled." 
 
 To leave the paths of fancy and return to the prac- 
 tical, it may be recorded that the city of Glasgow 
 obtains its water supply from this lovely Highland 
 lake, an aqueduct extending thence a distance of forty 
 miles. 
 
 At the picturesque landing-place another long line 
 of open wagons, or "brakes," were in readiness, and 
 
 "Then dashing down a darksome glen, 
 Soon lost to hound and hunter's ken, 
 In the deep Trosach's wildest nook," 
 
 our party were ushered into the presence of another 
 famous bit of Highland scenery. The Trosachs is the 
 designation of a narrow, rocky defile, from which, 
 until the present road was made, says Scott, there 
 was no mode of issuing except by a sort of ladder 
 composed of the branches and roots of trees. The 
 walls are not as high, nor the scenery as wild, as in the 
 chief passes of the White Mountains of New Hamp- 
 shire, nor do the trees approach anything like gigantic 
 size. For all these reasons the American traveller is 
 likely to be disappointed in its physical proportions. 
 
58 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Nevertheless, the spot is picturesque, and Scotland's 
 great poet and novelist has invested it with such deep 
 romance, that it is full of interest, Somewhere neat 
 the easterly end of the gorge, Fitz- James lost his 
 "gallant gray," and the drivers will doubtless point 
 out the precise spot. 
 
 We stopped at the Trosachs Hotel, a handsome and 
 turreted edifice, overlooking the lovely little Loch 
 Achray, long enough to get an excellent dinner, and 
 then once more mounting the comfortable wagons, 
 were off for Callander, nine miles distant. The road 
 lies along the north shore of the little lake last named, 
 and affords most enchanting visions through the trees 
 of the neighboring mountains and the quieter scenery 
 of the glen. 
 
 " But nearer was the copse-wood gray, 
 That waved and wept on Loch Achray, 
 And mingled with the pine-trees blue 
 On the bold cliffs of Ben Venue." 
 
 The old Brigg of Turk is. crossed, and Duncraggan 
 is soon reached. Northward is the lofty Ben Ledi 
 (2,875 feet), lying east of Glenfinlas, and a little 
 further, on the right of the road, at the head of Loch 
 Vennachar, is Lanrick Mead, the ancient gathering- 
 ground of the Clan- Alpine. 
 
 1 At length they came, where, stern and steep, 
 The hill sinks down upon the deep. 
 Here Vennachar in silver flows, 
 There, ridge on ridge, Ben Ledi rose." 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 59 
 
 On this hillside it was that Vich- Alpine's warriors 
 started out of the ferns at the whistle of their chief- 
 tain to confront Fitz- James. Loch Vennachar is 
 larger than Loch Achray, but its scenery is less wild 
 and romantic. From its eastern extremity flows the 
 river Teith, across which, near the lake, was Coilan- 
 togle Ford, the spot where Roderick Dhu challenged 
 Fitz-James to single combat. There was formerly a 
 fall here, but the ancient landmarks of the ford have, 
 to some extent, been obliterated by the operations of 
 the Glasgow water-works, which have caused the 
 banks of the lake to be raised several feet, in order to 
 form a reservoir for the supply of the mills on the 
 Teith. Beyond the lake the road winds along a spur 
 of Ben Ledi, and, at a considerable height, is a huge 
 bowlder known as " Samson's Futting-Stone," which 
 seems ready to roll down the hillside upon the 
 passer-by. We cross the river Leny to Kilmahog, 
 and ten minutes later are in Callander, where we take 
 the Caledonian Railway for Stirling, sixteen miles 
 distant. The railway ride takes us through two inter- 
 esting towns before we reach Stirling; viz., Doune, 
 where are the ruins of a feudal castle, for a time a royal 
 residence, and Dunblane, with its ancient cathedral, 
 which was founded early in the twelfth century. The 
 Bridge of Allan, a well-known watering-place, is also 
 passed, the latter being only three miles from Stirling. 
 
 We halted at Stirling over a train, in order to visit 
 
60 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the ancient castle and Grey friars Church. The town 
 is situated near the river Forth, and on a gradually 
 sloping eminence, bearing externally some resem- 
 blance to the site of the old part of Edinburgh. Its 
 ancient castle, which stands on the brow of a precip- 
 itous rock, is closely associated with the history of 
 Scotland from an early period. The date of its foun- 
 dation is unknown, but it was a fortress in the time 
 of the Picts. Alexander I. died within its walls in 
 1124, and in 1304 it held out for three months against 
 Edward I. of England, at the head of a powerful 
 army. For ten years Stirling remained in the posses- 
 sion of the English. To maintain its possession, Ed- 
 ward II. assembled a great army and undertook the 
 invasion of Scotland, which terminated in his defeat 
 on the neighboring field of Bannockburn. After the 
 death of Bruce it was captured by Edward Baliol, the 
 aspirant to the Scottish throne, and from him it was 
 recovered for King David, after a long and obstinate 
 siege. About the time of the accession of the house 
 of Stuart, the castle again became a royal residence, 
 and it was the birthplace of James II. and James V., 
 the latter of whom was crowned here. James VI. and 
 his eldest son, Prince Henry, were baptized within its 
 walls, and within the neighboring church of Grey- 
 friars (now known as the East and West Churches), 
 James VI. was crowned, in 1567, John Knox preach- 
 ing the coronation sermon. In the same church, too, 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 61 
 
 his unhappy mother was crowned at the tender age of 
 eight months. The church was erected by James IV. 
 in 1494, and the castle was that king's favorite resi- 
 dence. The palace, which occupies the south-west 
 part of the fortress, was erected by James V. The 
 unfortunate Queen Mary was an inmate of the castle, 
 and at the end of the garden is an aperture in the 
 wall, called Queen Mary's Lookout, from whence that 
 royal personage is said to have viewed the sports 
 which took place on the. field below. Another look- 
 out from the ramparts is dignified by the name of 
 Victoria View, and commemorates a visit of the pres- 
 ent Queen and the late Prince Consort to the spot in 
 1842. 
 
 The view from the ramparts is indescribably fine. 
 The vale of Menteith, a plain of great fertility, 
 stretches to the west, bounded by the Highland moun- 
 tains, whose graceful peaks fringe the horizon. To 
 the north and east are the Ochil Hills, and the pros- 
 pect on the south is closed by the Campsie Hills. 
 Directly below is the town, the river with its ancient 
 bridges, one of which is supposed to have been built 
 a thousand years ago, and the turf embankments of 
 the King's Garden, still preserved in the form they 
 existed centuries ago, an octagonal mound called the 
 King's Knot, and said to mark the spot of the royal 
 sports, occupying the centre. A little distance north 
 of the castle is the Heading Hill, where, in 1424, the 
 
62 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Duke of Albany, with the Earl of Lennox, his father- 
 in-law, and his two sons, was beheaded within sight 
 of his own Castle of Doune. The turnpike road, like 
 a gray thread, directs the eye to Cambuskenneth 
 Abbey, the lofty Wallace Tower on Abbey Craig, 
 which stands like a sentinel over the beautiful valley, 
 and the Bridge of Allan. The eye wanders over 
 inairy a battle-field, including the bloody Bannockburn, 
 which lies two miles east of Stirling. One of the most 
 interesting parts of the castle is the Douglas Room, 
 which, with the very closet where James II. stabbed 
 the Earl of Douglas, in 1452, is shown to visitors. 
 This portion of the castle was damaged by fire in 
 18,55, but has been restored. The Douglas Room has 
 been made the receptacle of various relics, and in the 
 collection may be seen one of the numerous pulpits of 
 John Knox, the Reformer, and a clock which belonged 
 to James YI. Stirling Castle is one of the four fort- 
 resses of Scotland, kept in repair by the articles of 
 the Union, and it is still maintained as a military sta- 
 tion. 
 
 Greyfriars Church is more interesting on account 
 of its historical associations, than for any beauty es- 
 pecially its own. Near it, however, is a cemetery 
 with many beautiful monuments, one of which, of 
 modern origin, is to the memory of the Virgin Mar- 
 tyrs, two young women who suffered death by drown- 
 ing in the Solway, May 11, 1685, during the persecu- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 63 
 
 tions of that time. They were tied to stakes and 
 drowned by the rising of the tide. James Guthrie, 
 the martyr, one of the ministers of the church, who 
 was beheaded in Edinburgh, is also buried here, and 
 the cemetery also contains statues of Knox, Melville, 
 Henderson, James Renwick, and others. 
 
 Resuming the railway we proceeded to Edinburgh, 
 36 miles distant, arriving at 9.30 o'clock, p. m., but 
 so long are the summer days in this northern latitude 
 that it was still" daylight. These long northern days 
 are very favorable to sight-seeing, and at the same 
 time quite detrimental to the interests of the gas com- 
 panies. There are, indeed, in June and July, only a 
 few hours of darkness. The approaches to Edin- 
 burgh are through a rich and finely cultivated region, 
 and luxuriant fields and gardens, fine country-seats, 
 and neat, clean habitations of a humbler sort every- 
 where abound. Every foot of land is tilled, and well 
 tilled too ; and there is an air of neatness and thrift, 
 even about the cottages of the railway-station people, 
 that is refreshing. 
 
 Flowers are seen everywhere, and at some of the 
 stopping-places, the name of the station is spelled 
 out in them on a convenient and sightly bank. All 
 the buildings are of stone, and thus a village, town, 
 or city, is made to look as if it were intended to 
 stay. The contrast between a Scottish or English 
 hamlet with its solid, substantial edifices, and one of 
 
64 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 our American villages where the buildings are all of 
 wood, is very marked. While coming through Lin- 
 lithgow, 17 miles from Edinburgh, we had a momen- 
 tary view of the ruins of the ancient royal palace, 
 where Mary Queen of Scots was born into this world 
 of trouble, in 1542. 
 
 Mr. John M. Cook, of the firm of Messrs. Cook & 
 Son, excursion agents, having met our party on its 
 arrival at Greenock, and preceded us to Edinburgh, 
 had all the hotel arrangements completed and awaiting 
 our coming. The other half of the party had reached 
 the city two hours in advance of us, but were com- 
 pelled to forego the pleasure of the stop in Stirling 
 we had enjoyed. Seven different hotels; viz., the 
 Cockburn, Darling, Alexandra, Rutland, Clarendon, 
 Crown, and Osborne, were taken possession of, and as 
 several, if not all these houses displayed the American 
 flag in honor of their guests, Prince's Street presented 
 a gay, and, to some extent, a homelike appearance. 
 We remained in Edinburgh from Wednesday evening 
 until Friday morning, and the time was pretty 
 thoroughly occupied in inspecting the historic edifices 
 and ruins, the many beautiful monuments, the institu- 
 tions of learning, the museums, and the picturesque 
 surroundings of the charming city. Hours shoulc! 
 have been clays ; but the visitors made themselves 
 exceedingly busy, nearly monopolizing the driving 
 facilities for the period of their stay. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 65 
 
 Edinburgh, one of the most beautiful cities in all 
 Europe, is most picturesquely situated, upon two 
 ridges of hills, the more elevated of which is occupied 
 by the castle and the old town. The elevation of 
 Castle Hill is 383 feet. Between it and the new 
 section of the city there existed, up to the middle of 
 the last century, a morass or lake (it was known as 
 the North Loch) ; but this has been drained, and now 
 forms a line of beautiful gardens, along the north 
 margin of which is the handsome, wide thoroughfare 
 known as Prince's Street. At the east end a lofty 
 bridge connects the two sections, and the Mound is 
 another means of communication, about midway in 
 the valley. It is here the Eoyal Institution and 
 National Gallery are situated. Along the line of the 
 ancient lake, in deep cuts or through tunnels, one of 
 the latter lying directly beneath the National Gallery, 
 the railway runs, thus gaining a central terminus, 
 and at the same time being much below the level of 
 the surrounding streets. Eailway crossings at grade 
 are rarely met with in Great Britain, and the liability 
 to accident is thus greatly reduced. The difference 
 between the old and new sections of the city is very 
 marked, in the character of both the buildings and 
 the thoroughfares. In the old town, where, in the 
 early days, the available space was very contracted, 
 the streets are narrow, and are bordered by still 
 narrower wynds or closes, while the houses, built to 
 
66 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 a great extent upon the hillside, are very tall, in 
 many instances extending, on one side at least, to the 
 height of ten or a dozen stories. They build strong 
 in the old country, else half of old Edinburgh would 
 have toppled over many years ago. In the newer 
 section of the city — and this has to some extent 
 taken possession of the plains south of the castle as 
 well as of the fields on the opposite side — the avenues 
 are wide and regular, and the residences and business 
 edifices are broad and commodious, though less lofty. 
 Along the Prince's Gardens are several of the finest 
 statues and monuments of Edinburgh, including the 
 noble Scott [Memorial, an elaborate Gothic structure, 
 two hundred feet and six inches in height, which con- 
 tains a fine marble statue of the great poet and novel- 
 ist, in a sitting posture (by Sir John Steell), and a 
 great number of niches occupied by statuettes repre- 
 senting his chief characters, and also other Scottish 
 poets. The beautiful memorial was erected from a 
 design by George M. Kemp, a self-taught young man, 
 who unfortunately died before the creation of his 
 fancy was put in full and enduring form. One of the 
 most remarkable facts connected with this monument, 
 to the American mind, is that its cost was only a trifle 
 more than $75,000. The foundation-stone was laid 
 in the year 1840 (the monument was finished in 
 1844), and there was deposited a plate, bearing the 
 following inscription, prepared by Lord Jeffrey : — 
 
THE SCOTT MEMORIAL, EDINBURGH. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. G7 
 
 "This Graven Plate, deposited in the base of a votive 
 building on the fifteenth day of August, in the year of Christ 
 1840, and never likely to see the light again till the sur- 
 rounding structures are crumbled to dust by the decay of 
 time, or by human or elemental violence, ma}^ then testify 
 to a distant posterity that his countrymen began on that day 
 to raise an effigy and architectural monument to the mem- 
 ory of Sir Walter Scott, Bart., whose admirable writings 
 were then allowed to have given more delight and suggested 
 better feeling to a large class of readers in every rank of 
 society than those of any other author, with the exception 
 of Shakespeare alone, and which were therefore thought 
 likely to be remembered long after this act of gratitude on 
 the part of the first generation of his admirers, should be 
 forgotten. 
 
 " He was born at Edinburgh 15th August, 1771 ; 
 
 "And died at Abbotsford 21st September, 1832." 
 
 Scott was born in a house, long since removed, 
 which stood in what is now Chambers Street, at the 
 head of the College Wyncl, and he subsequently lived 
 for a long period at No. 39 North Castle Street, in 
 the new town. 
 
 Among the other statues along the line of Prince's 
 Street are those of Professor John Wilson (Christopher 
 North) ; Allan Ramsay, the Scottish pastoral poet ; 
 David Livingstone, the explorer of Africa; and the 
 Duke of Wellington. Among the other monuments 
 in the new part of Edinburgh, aside from those on 
 Calton Hill, which, properly speaking, is also in the 
 modern-built section of the city, are the Albert Memo- 
 
68 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 rial (an equestrian statue on an elaborately adorned 
 pedestal), on Charlotte Square, and the column and 
 statue one hundred and fifty feet high, erected to the 
 memory of Lord Melville, on St. Andrew's Square. 
 
 Calton Hill is a sightly elevation in the eastern part 
 of the city, from whence a magnificent view is obtained 
 of the city and the surrounding country. To the west 
 are the frowning battlements of the castle, portions of 
 the old and new towns, with the railways and gardens 
 stretching between. On the south, and at but little 
 distance, are Salisbury Craigs and Arthur's Seat, the 
 latter of which is eight hundred and twenty-two feet 
 high, while the historic Palace and Abbey of Holyrood 
 are in the valley between Calton Hill and Salisbury 
 Craigs, the Queen's Park stretching off to the left. In 
 the distance, flanking Arthur's Seat, are the hills of 
 Lammermoor. To the right, and over the main por- 
 tion of the city, at a distance of a dozen miles or so, 
 lie the Pentland Hills, the springs of which modern 
 Edinburgh, or the " Modern Athens," as it is some- 
 times called, has utilized for its water supply. Turn- 
 ing the eye northward, it is seen that the city has 
 spread its wings to the Firth of Forth, a broad arm of ' 
 the sea, only two miles distant, along the margin of 
 which, in either direction, are a dozen busy towns. 
 The port of Leith is, in fact, a separate municipality, 
 but it forms, geographically, a continuation of the 
 larger city. Across the Firth are the shores of Fife- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 69 
 
 shire, while further to the left are the rounded Ochil 
 Hills, and the dim outlines of the more rugged High- 
 lands. To the east is the open sea. Upon Calton 
 Hill are several monumental edifices, and the Koyal 
 Observatory. Nelson's Monument, the most promi- 
 nent structure of all, is a tall and unsightly shaft. The 
 top of the monument is now used for the display of 
 the time-ball, which falls exactly at one o'clock, simul- 
 taneously with the firing of a gun at the castle. Both 
 operations are controlled by electricity from the Ob- 
 servatory. Near the Nelson column stands the Nation- 
 al Monument, an unfortunate attempt to imitate the 
 Parthenon of Athens. It is not inaptly styled the Na- 
 tional Folly. Only twelve columns for the west end 
 of the edifice, which was intended to be of imposing 
 proportions, have been erected, and the structure is 
 not likely ever to be finished. The other monuments 
 are in memory of Professor Play fair, and Dugald 
 Stewart, who was Professor of Moral Philosophy in 
 the University of Edinburgh from 1785 to 1820. A 
 monument to Robert Burns is on the south-east side of 
 Calton Hill, beyond the handsome high-school build- 
 ing. Directly below the summit, in the view towards 
 the castle, are the extensive group of castellated build- 
 ings, within a high wall, forming the prison of Edin- 
 burgh. 
 
 On Thursday morning, Mr. John M. Cook assembled 
 the members of our party on the grassy slope of Calton 
 
70 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 I 
 
 Hill, and made a brief address explanatory of his plans 
 for our future movements. He also alluded to the 
 fact that, forty years before, the Cooks had brought 
 their first excursion party to the same city. 
 
 After inspecting the monuments upon the hill, under 
 the leadership of some of the city guides, and admir- 
 ing the glorious view from the summit, we proceeded 
 down the declivity to Holyrood Palace and Chapel, 
 passing, on the way, a diminutive building in the old 
 Palace Garden, which served Queen Mary as a bath- 
 house. It was through this building the murderers of 
 Eizzio escaped, after leaping from a window of the 
 palace. 
 
 The Palace of Holyrood was distinct from the abbey 
 or monastery, and was founded by James IV. in 1501, 
 the religious establishment having been established b}^ 
 David I. in 1128. Tradition records that King David 
 was hunting in the forest of Drumsheuch (now incor- 
 porated in the west part of Edinburgh), when he was 
 attacked by a stag that had been brought to bay. 
 Koyalty was in great danger, when a mysterious cross 
 was interposed between the defenceless monarch and 
 the infuriated animal, and the latter fled in dismay. 
 In grateful token the monarch founded and richly 
 endowed the Church of the Holy Rood, giving it into 
 the care of the canons of St. Augustine. The palace, 
 much of which is of modern origin (from 1671 to 
 1679, during the reign of Charles II.), is in a good 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 71 
 
 state of preservation, but the ancient abbey is a mass 
 of noble ruins. The latter structure was partly 
 destroyed by Edward II. in 1322 ; burned by Eichard 
 II. in 1385 ; restored by Abbot Crawford about the 
 end of the fifteenth century ; again sacked by the Eng- 
 lish in the succeeding century ; and rifled by a mob in 
 1688. The palace also suffered frequent assaults. 
 In 1544, at the time of the "rough wooing" of the 
 infant Mary by the English, the palace, with the 
 abbey, and all the rest of Edinburgh outside the 
 castle walls, fell a prey to the flames. Both the palace 
 and abbey soon recovered from the effects of this dis- 
 aster ; and when, in 1561, Queen Mary landed from 
 France as sovereign of Scotland in her own right, and 
 youthful dowager of France, she was conducted to 
 Holyrood. She selected for her private apartments 
 those which occupied the north-western corner, on the 
 third floor of what are known as James V.'s Towers 
 (erected in 1528) ; and, fortunately, when the palace 
 was subsequently despoiled by Cromwell's soldiers, 
 this portion was saved from destruction. Holyrood is 
 intimately associated with some of the most important 
 events in the history of this most unfortunate queen. 
 Here she reposed after her arrival from the gay land 
 of France ; here she was married to Darnley ; here 
 Rizzio was murdered ; here was the scene of her fatal 
 nuptials with Bothwell ; and here she rested her 
 troubled head on the eyentful night before she was 
 
72 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 committed to the Castle of Locbleven. When James 
 VI. inhabited the palace, it was more than once 
 attacked, and once actually surprised by Bothwell in 
 the course of his ambitious enterprises. Charles I. 
 was crowned in the Chapel-royal on the 15th of June, 
 1630. The south wing of the palace contains, to-day, 
 the state apartments, and these have several times 
 been occupied by the present royal family of England. 
 The royal stables are opposite the palace, and these, 
 too, are kept up at the present time. 
 
 The northern, or historic portion of the palace, 
 together with the Chapel-royal, are accessible to the 
 public every day, except Sunday, after the hour of 
 eleven, A. m. On Saturdays the admission is free, 
 but on other days a sixpence is charged. The visitor 
 is first conducted to the picture-gallery, a fine apart- 
 ment, 150 feet in length, and 27 feet in width. On 
 the walls are a hundred imaginary portraits of both 
 fabulous and reputed kings of Scotland, all painted by 
 a Flemish artist named DeTVitt, between 1684-86. 
 There are three or four pictures of greater historic 
 value, one of which represents James III., and Ijis son 
 James IY., while, on the reverse, is the Holy Trinity. 
 Lord Daroley's rooms are next shown. These contain 
 a number of portraits, including one of Darnley him- 
 self. Queen Mary's apartments possess the chief 
 interest. These, as already described, are on the 
 third floor. They comprise the audience-chamber, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 73 
 
 the bed-chamber, the dressing-room, and the supper- 
 room. From the bed-chamber, near the entrance to 
 the last-mentioned apartment, a small door opens on 
 the private staircase by which the assassins of Rizzio 
 ascended to the royal apartments ; and the spot where 
 the murdered Italian finally fell, at the head of a stair- 
 case outside the audience-chamber, is pointed out. 
 The visitor is even asked to believe that a discolora- 
 tion of the pavement is the blood of the man murdered 
 over three hundred years ago ; but this requires rather 
 too ofreat a stretch of faith. Both the dressing-room 
 and supper-room are diminutive apartments, scarcely 
 more than ten feet square. The several chambers are 
 hung with ancient tapestry, faded, moth-eaten, and 
 worn, and the bed of the queen is also shown. In 
 the audience-room, too, is shown the bed of Charles I. 
 In the bed-chamber of Queen Mary are portraits of 
 the unfortunate queen herself, of Henry VIII. , and of 
 Queen Elizabeth. Another apartment to which the 
 visitor is taken after • viewing Darnley's rooms, and 
 before ascending to Queen Mary's chambers, is the 
 Tapestry Eoom. This is in the part of the palace 
 rebuilt by Charles II., and contains two large pieces of 
 ancient tapestry, and some portraits. Of the Chapel- 
 royal, nearly the whole of the west front, with its 
 great tower and richly-carved doorway, is said to be a 
 part of the original edifice. The most ancient portion, 
 however, is thought to be a small Norman doorway, 
 
74 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 now built up, at the back of the mass of masonry 
 above the royal vault, and which originally communi- 
 cated with the old cloisters of the abbey. It is 
 thought to date back to 1150. 
 
 Upon leaving Holyrood, the visitor's attention is 
 attracted, if it has not been upon his entrance to the 
 palace, by a curious fountain in the centre of the 
 square. It is a copy of one which stands in a ruined 
 state at Linlithgow, and is adorned with a great 
 number of grotesque figures. It was erected by the 
 late Prince Albert. 
 
 From the palace, a fairly straight thoroughfare leads 
 up the hill, through the heart of the old town, to the 
 castle. The distance is about a mile, but different 
 portions of the street bear no less than five different 
 names, to wit : Canongate, the Netherbow, High 
 Street, the Lawnmarket (Linenmarket) , and Castle 
 Hill. Every foot of the way has historic or romantic 
 interest. Near the foot of Canongate, approached 
 through a court-yard, is the ancient White Horse Inn, 
 one of the oldest hostelries in Edinburgh, but now a 
 neglected tenement-house. It was here that Johnson 
 was entertained on his visit to Edinburgh. Near this 
 is the Abbey Court House and Sanctuary for Debtors. 
 The Canongate Church, the Canongate Tolbooth, and 
 Moray House, are other ancient and interesting 
 edifices at the lower end of this thoroughfare. At the 
 Netherbow, we came to the house of that sturdy old 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 75 
 
 Reformer, John Knox, provided for him when he was 
 elected minister of Edinburgh, in 1559, and in which 
 he continued to reside until his death, in 1572. Upon 
 the corner, near a window from which he is said to 
 have preached to the populace, is a rude efligy of a 
 minister in a pulpit, pointing to the name of God 
 carved upon a stone above, in Greek, Latin, and Eng- 
 lish. The house is open to the public on certain days, 
 at an admission fee of sixpence. Just above, on the 
 left, or south side, is the old Tron Church, and on the 
 opposite side of the way, No. 177 High Street, is the 
 cellar in which the Commissioners appointed to sign 
 the Articles of Union, in 1707, secretly met and com- 
 pleted their compact, an enraged mob having driven 
 them from their first meeting-place at Moray House. 
 At No. 155 was Allan Ramsay's book-shop. In this 
 neighborhood are many of the ancient closes and 
 wynds, some of which, though narrow and contracted, 
 formerly held the abiding places of princes, cardinals, 
 archbishops, bishops and peers. In Blackfriars 
 Wynd, a narrow alley now modernized into Black- 
 friars Street, dwelt the princely St. Clair, Earl of 
 Orkney, whose dame was attended by " seventy-five 
 gentlewomen, whereof fifty-three were daughters of 
 noblemen, all clothed in velvets and silks, with their 
 chains of gold." Up through this dismal pathway, at 
 eleven o'clock, on the evening of the 10th of February, 
 1567, her attendants going before with lighted torches, 
 
76 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 passed Queen Mary, on her way home to Holyrood 
 Palace from her last visit to the fated Darnley — - just 
 three hours before his murder. Volumes, indeed, 
 might be written about the history of each of these 
 little alleys. At the Tron Church is seen the march 
 of improvement, in the two modern bridges which 
 ihave been thrown across the valleys, above the lower 
 streets, on either side. 
 
 Continuing up High Street, we reach St. Giles's 
 Cathedral, a large Gothic edifice in the form of a cross, 
 with a massive central square tower, which terminates 
 in open stone-work fashioned like a colossal imperial 
 crown. This tower forms a handsome and prominent 
 object in nearly every view of the city. The original 
 church is said to have been founded here early in the 
 ninth century. In 1359 it was rebuilt, and in 1466 it 
 contained no less than forty altars. After the Reforma- 
 tion it was divided into four places of worship, in one 
 of which John Knox preached. It was in the choir that 
 the ludicrous incident occurred, in 1637, wdien Jenny 
 Geddes threw her stool at the Dean of Edinburgh, on 
 his commencing to read the new Episcopal service- 
 book. The stool is preserved in the Antiquarian 
 Museum. In 1643 the Solemn League and Covenant 
 was sworn to and subscribed to within its walls. 
 Much of the present edifice is comparatively modern, 
 and it is now divided into three separate churches for 
 the Presbyterian service. In one of these, at the 
 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 77 
 
 time* of our visit, an organ of decidedly modern aspect 
 was- being placed. Sixteen years before, Dr. Tourjee's 
 inquiry after such a musical adjunct, had been met by 
 the custodians A of the church with expressions of sur- 
 prise that such an instrument should be looked for in 
 such a place. Within a railing near one of the 
 entrances, may be seen the shaft of the Old Cross of 
 Edinburgh. The original cross, or pillar, stood in a 
 spot now marked by a cross on the pavement opposite 
 the door of the Police Chambers. The ancient custom 
 of making public proclamations by heralds from this 
 spot, is still continued on important occasions. In 
 the rear of St. Giles's, the Parliament House and 
 Law Courts are situated, and the intermediate space 
 was originally the parish cemetery of St. Giles's 
 Church. Many notable men were here interred, 
 including John Knox, whose grave is indicated by a 
 small flat stone near the equestrian statue of Charles 
 II. The site of the old Tolbooth, or "The Heart ot 
 Mid-Lothian," as the prison of Edinburgh was called 
 (built in 1561 for the accommodation of parliament 
 and the courts, as well as for the confinement of male- 
 factors, and torn down in 1817), is shown by a heart 
 of stone — a fitting symbol, in the pathway near one 
 corner of the church. The great hall of the Parliament 
 House is a lofty and handsome apartment. Since the 
 time of the Union it has served as a hall for the practi- 
 tioners in the courts, and it is adorned with statues 
 
78 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and portraits of eminent jurists. Nearly opposite St. 
 Giles's is the Royal Exchange, a building occupied 
 largely as offices in the administration of municipal 
 affairs, and just above is the County Hall, built, like 
 many other modern edifices in Edinburgh, after a 
 Grecian model. 
 
 At this latter point, George IV. Bridge turns 
 southward across the little valley which becomes 
 below, the narrow, dirty, forbidding street known as 
 Cowgate, and farther on, below the castle, the Grass- 
 market, which has been the scene of so many execu- 
 tions. The bridge leads in the direction of the 
 University, the new and old Greyfriars Churches, and 
 Heriot's Hospital. This latter institution, with its 
 numerous dependent free schools, is something of 
 which Edinburgh has reason to feel proud ; while its 
 celebrated university (founded in 1582), with its 
 museum and library, is a source of national pride. In 
 the churchyard of Greyfriars, rest many illustrious 
 dead, and an innumerable company of Christian 
 martyrs. In a desolate corner on the south side of the 
 yard, about twelve hundred Covenanters, prisoners 
 taken at Both well Bridge, were confined for the space 
 of five months, and subjected to many cruelties. 
 
 Continuing up through the Lawnmarket from High 
 Street, Castle Hill and the Esplanade are soon reached. 
 The latter is ornamented with a monument, in the 
 form of a Runic cross, erected to the memory of the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 79 
 
 officers and soldiers of the 78th Highlanders, who fell 
 in India while aiding to suppress the Sepoy mutiny, 
 and a bronze statue of the Duke of York, son of 
 George III. 
 
 We have now come to the most prominent and in- 
 teresting object in the city — the ancient castle. Pre- 
 cisely when this massive fortress was built is not 
 known, but it is supposed to have been established by 
 Edwin, a Northumbrian prince, in the early quarter of 
 the seventh century. The Celtic name of the town 
 was Dunedin, and it acquired its present title from the 
 castle, which was Edwin's " brugh," or stronghold. 
 Old legends say the Pictish kings used the castle as a 
 place of safe-keeping for their daughters until the time 
 of their marriage ; but might it not. rather have been 
 the safe retreat of the knights from the wiles of the 
 Scottish maidens? The present buildings of the 
 fortress date back no further than the fifteenth century, 
 with the exception of the little Norman chapel, built by 
 the pious Queen Margaret, the Saxon wife of Malcolm 
 Canmore, and mother of David I., who died within 
 the castle in 1093. This edifice is very diminutive, 
 measuring only 16 feet six inches by 10 feet six inches 
 within the nave. After a long period of neglect it was 
 restored in 1853, and adorned with three small stained- 
 glass windows. In the year 1074, the castle was re- 
 built by King Malcolm. In the oldeii time, Edinburgh 
 Castle must have been a formidable fortress, surmount- 
 
80 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ing as it does a rock that was well-nigh impregnable 
 in itself, and it is still maintained as a military estab- 
 lishment ; but with the modern enginery of warfare 
 at command, it would not long withstand a hostile 
 attack. 
 
 From the Esplanade, the castle is entered by a 
 drawbridge, after passing the outer barrier. Beyond 
 this is the guard-house, and farther up the ascent is the 
 portcullis gate, over which is the old State Prison, 
 where many noble captives have been held in duress. 
 Still further on is the Armory, and at its back is the 
 old sally-port, to which Viscount Dundee scrambled 
 up to hold a conference with the Duke of Gordon, be- 
 fore setting out for the North to raise the Highland 
 clans in favor of I£ing James. The Governor's house 
 and new barracks, erected in the time of Queen Anne, 
 the latter quite bearing out the charge of Scott, that 
 they resemble a cotton-mill, are passed before the cit- 
 adel, or highest platform of the castle is reached. 
 Here, the little barn-like structure, built for a chapel 
 by Queen Margaret, meets the eye, and opposite, on 
 the king's bastion, stands the famous old cannon, 
 known as "Mons Meg," which is supposed to have 
 been constructed about the year 1476, at Mons, in 
 Belgium, and is known to have been used by James 
 IV. at the "siege of Dumbarton in 1489, and again, at 
 the siege of Norham Castle on the Borders, in 1497. 
 It ended its career in 1682, when it burst during the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 81 
 
 firing of a salute to the Duke of York. The view 
 from this point is grand in the extreme. Turning 
 westwards, the visitor passes into a quadrangle, the 
 buildings on the south and east sides of which formed 
 for centuries the royal palace and stronghold of the 
 kings and queens of Scotland. The east side is 
 where the royal apartments were located, and where a 
 long line of sovereigns were born, lived and died. 
 On the ground floor is Queen Mary's Room, where, on 
 the 19th of June, 15G6, James VI. of Scotland, and 
 afterwards James I. of England, were born ; and the 
 window is shown from which the infant prince was let 
 down in a basket. The Crown Room, wherein the 
 regalia of Scotland is displayed, is on the same side of 
 the quadrangle, but one flight higher. These "Hon- 
 ours of Scotland," as the insignia were called, have an 
 interesting history. After the union with England, 
 they remained hidden, and it was not until 1818, when 
 a commission, of which Sir Walter Scott was a mem- 
 ber, discovered them in an old oaken chest, in which 
 they had rested, in a walied-up part of the castle 110 
 years. The regalia consists of a crown, supposed to 
 have been originally worn by Robert the Bruce in the 
 fourteenth century, adorned with diamonds, rubies, and 
 other precious gems ; the sceptre, ascribed to James 
 V. ; the Lord High Treasurer's mace of office ; and 
 the sword of state presented to James IY. by Pope 
 Julius II. The arched embellishment of the crown 
 
82 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 was added by James V. in 1536. Some other jewels 
 arc also exhibited, including a golden collar of the 
 Order of the Garter, presented by Queen Elizabeth to 
 King James VI. of Scotland, the badge of the same 
 Order, which also belonged to James VI., the corona- 
 tion ring of Charles I., and the St. Andrew jewel, 
 which has on one side the image of the patron saint, 
 finely cut in onyx and set around with diamonds, and 
 on the other the badge of the thistle, with a secret 
 opening, beneath which is a fine miniature of Anne of 
 Denmark, Queen, of James VI. 
 
 On descending from the castle, some of us paid a 
 visit, necessarily hurried because the closjng hour was 
 approaching, to the Antiquarian Museum and National 
 Gallery. The former contains a large and interesting 
 collection of antiquities, both foreign and British, 
 including early sculptured stones, arms, ornaments, 
 implements of torture, &c. Here may be seen the 
 "Maiden," an old Scottish guillotine, by which the 
 Regent Morton and many others were beheaded ; all 
 the variations of " thumbikins," or thumb-screws, an 
 instrument of torture much used against the Cove- 
 nanters ; the " branks," an ingenious contrivance for 
 punishing scolding women; Jenny Geddes's stool; 
 John Knox's pulpit, from St. Giles's Church ; Rob 
 Roy's Highland purse-clasps, with pistols ingeniously 
 concealed, with a view to prevent filching ; and 
 hundreds of other interesting relics. In the National 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD . 83 
 
 Gallery are some fine paintings, chiefly the works of 
 modern Scottish artists, although some foreign pic- 
 tures, including a few productions of the old masters, 
 have been added. There is a fine marble statue of 
 Robert Burns, by John Flaxman, and several wax 
 models by Michael Angelo. 
 
 The beautiful " Queen's Drive " around Salisbury 
 Craigs and Arthur's Seat enticed nearly every mem- 
 ber of our party, and some scrambled to the top of 
 the latter elevation, to gain the magnificent view. 
 On the shoulder of the hill, overlooking Holyrood, 
 are the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel, which be- 
 longed to the cell of a hermit, and beneath is St. 
 Anthony's Well. An old Scottish song declares — 
 
 "Now Arthur's Seat shall he my hed, 
 Saint Anton's Well shall he my drink, 
 Since my true love 's forsaken me." 
 
 The ride through the southern section of the city 
 brought into near view some of the fine university 
 buildings, including the Museum of Science and Art, 
 which, unfortunately, there was no time to inspect. 
 In company with Dr. Tourjee, however, I paid a most 
 interesting, visit to one department of the University ; 
 viz., the School of the Theory of Music. This institu- 
 tion was founded February 13, 1858, through a liberal 
 endowment from the late John Reid. The chair of 
 music is filled by a distinguished musician and com- 
 
84 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 poser, Sir Herbert Oakeley. We did not have the 
 pleasure of meeting this gentleman, as he was absent 
 from the city, but we were kindly shown through the 
 various rooms. To Dr. Tourjee the school was not 
 new, as he had received instruction there in its earliest 
 da} T s. Session-time is from November until April, 
 and the number of students is usually about two hun- 
 dred. The class-room is a large apartment, which 
 contains, in addition to elaborate and costly acoustic 
 apparatus, a magnificent organ, built by Hill & Son 
 of London. Here Sir Herbert gives frequent recitals 
 to the students. In another apartment is a large 
 collection of musical instruments, both ancient and 
 contemporaneous. The whole arrangement of the 
 rooms seems to be precisely what is needed in a col- 
 lege of music, the best feature of all being the superb 
 organ. The founder of the school, Mr. Reid, left 
 behind him a composition which he desired to have 
 performed once a year. This request is rigidly ad- 
 hered to, and a "Reid Concert" is given annually. 
 The parent University was founded in 1582, and has 
 given to the world some of its greatest scholars and 
 philosophers. 
 
 In the vicinity of the University, a section of the 
 city that has been much improved of late years, may 
 be seen a fountain and monument surmounted by the 
 ima^e of a dosr. This commemorates an instance of 
 canine fidelity worth relating. Years ago an old sol- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 85 
 
 dier died and was buried in the churchyard of Grey- 
 friars. His dog followed his deceased master to the 
 spot and lay down upon the grave. For three suc- 
 cessive days he was driven away, but his devotion 
 was so deep that he returned, and finally the keeper 
 permitted him to keep his sad and lonely vigil 
 undisturbed. For twelve years and five months the 
 faithful animal watched by his master's side, and his 
 ward then ceased only on account of death. The 
 monument was erected at the expense of a citizen of 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 The environs of Edinburgh are very beautiful, and 
 among the places of especial interest to strangers are 
 Koslin Chapel and Castle, and Hawthornden, which 
 was the residence of the poet Drummond. 
 
 Our party received much attention while in Edin- 
 burgh. An invitation was extended to its members 
 to attend the Koyal Blind Asylum and School Exhibi- 
 tion, at West Craigmillar Park, but on account of our 
 short stay this had to be declined. Thursday evening 
 there was an interesting gathering in the Odd Fellows' 
 Hall, in compliance with the following invitation : — 
 
 Sabbath-School Teachers' Union. — On the 10th of 
 July, some 250 American tourists will arrive in Edinburgh. 
 As their leader, Dr. Tonrjce, Director of the New England 
 Conservatory of Music, of Boston, has kindly arranged that 
 several of them shall give addresses on Sabbath-school work, 
 a meeting of those interested in such work will be held on 
 
8Q A SUMMEK JAUNT 
 
 Thursday, 11th of July, at 8, p. m., in the Odd Fellows' 
 Hall; Duncan M'Laren, Jun., Esq.,*in the Chair. 
 Mr. Sneddon and his choir will aid in the singing. 
 
 The meeting was in fact a reception of those mem- 
 bers of the American party who were engaged while 
 at home in Sabbath-school work, either as pastors or 
 teachers, and there was quite a large attendance of 
 such, together w T ith a general assemblage of the Sab- 
 bath-School Teachers' Union of the Presbyterian 
 churches of Edinburgh. The convenient length of 
 summer days in this northern country has already 
 been mentioned. The phenomenon was strikingly 
 illustrated on this occasion. Although the hall is by 
 no means well lighted in the ordinary way by win- 
 dows, it was past nine o'clock before it was deemed 
 necessary to turn up the gas. 
 
 The meeting was opened with prayer by Rev. John 
 Young, M. A., pastor of the Newington United Pres- 
 byterian Church, and Mr. M'Laren, the president of 
 the occasion, then delivered the following excellent 
 address : — 
 
 Christian Friends and Fellow Teachers, — I assume that 
 all here are teachers, that none have come from curiosity or 
 other doubtful motive, but from a warm interest in the work 
 of Sunda} T -school teaching. I feel much gratified at being 
 called on to preside at a meeting of Suncla3 T -school teachers, 
 because, while connected with a great many societies and 
 boards for various purposes, there is no work to which I 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 87 
 
 have given more, I may say none to which I have given so 
 much attention, as Sunday-school teaching ; and there is no 
 place where I feel so much at home, as in a Sunday School, 
 or in the company of Sundaj^-school teachers. Our work 
 is humble and unobtrusive, by the world often altogether 
 unnoticed and unknown, and yet I know of no work likely 
 to be fraught with greater results, for on us, to a very 
 considerable degree, depend the characters of the future 
 men and women of our land, our aim being to instil into 
 their minds such principles as shall enable them worthily to 
 discharge their duties as citizens here, and fit them hereafter 
 *to dwell in that far more enduring, far more desirable city, 
 " whose builder and whose maker is God." 
 
 I feel specially gratified at being asked to preside this 
 evening, and have the privilege of introducing to you, hon- 
 ored brethren from the other side of the Atlantic. These 
 brethren have come for a holiday ; they have visited our 
 city for the purpose of acquainting themselves with its 
 beauties, and the many interesting associations which con- 
 nect it with the past. But in place of devoting their whole 
 time to seeing the attractions which our "own romantic 
 town " so abundantly presents to tourists, our friends have 
 generously agreed to spend a portion of their limited time 
 in benefiting our citizens, b} T giving us their experiences of 
 Snnda3 T -school teaching. 
 
 There was a time, and not far distant, when citizens of 
 one country would never have thought of enlightening the 
 inhabitants of another land, when no relationship was rec- 
 ognized between different states, unless one of enmity and 
 jealously. Happily the more enlightened Christianity now 
 taught, and the more frequent and eas} r means of inter- 
 course between nations, have, to a large extent, broken- 
 down those walls of partition that hitherto divided them ; and 
 
88 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ■ 
 
 I trust the rivalry between nations in future will not be as 
 to who can gain advantage over another by sheer force or 
 subtle stratagem, but who can do most to promote the wel- 
 fare of all mankind. From most civilized countries we can 
 learn something, and it should be our object to learn from 
 each nation that which she is best able to teach us. I have 
 no doubt our friends here will learn something in this land, 
 and also on the Continent of Europe, whither they are going, 
 which thc3 T can carry back with them and make use of in 
 their own homes. And if they can learn something from 
 us, there is much, very much, we can learn from them. 
 There is no department in which they can teach us more, * 
 than in that of Sunday Schools, whether we look at their 
 perfection of system, their enthusiastic zeal in teaching, or 
 the great results they achieve. In all these points they pre- 
 eminently excel. 
 
 I do not know if it would be possible for our Edinburgh 
 Union to organize a party equal in numbers to that which 
 is now visiting our cit} r , and like them charter a vessel to 
 cross the Atlantic, a party in which every Sunday School in 
 town should have one or more representatives. If it could 
 be done, and a month were devoted to visiting the schools 
 of the United States, the benefit resulting to our cit3 r would 
 be incalculable. I fear, however, that our Sunday-School 
 Union is not sufficiently enterprising ; and so if we do not 
 visit America, the next best thing for us is to listen to what 
 our American friends have come here to tell us. 
 
 Their ideas and ways differ from ours, and I ask 3*011 not 
 onl} T to listen to their statements, but when 3*011 go home 
 carefully to consider and weigh their plans with those 3*011 
 have been accustomed to follow. Do not reject ai^-thing 
 simply because it is novel. Do not not be alarmed because 
 it is opposed to old-fashioned ideas. The Apostles were 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 89 
 
 surprised to find the Master's teaching so different from that 
 of the Rabbis ; so one da}^ they told him so, and that the 
 Pharisees were offended. What was the Master's answer? 
 " Evety plant which my Heavenly Father hath not planted 
 shall be rooted up." Those plants $ those doctrines, those 
 s}' stems which are merely of human origin, which have 
 nothing divine in them, cannot endure; they " shall be 
 rooted up." But God's laws are plants of life, which shall 
 abide for ever ; the way appointed by Him, the plans in 
 harmony with His will, cannot be overthrown. Let us then 
 sift and examine our systems and modes of working ; what 
 is merely our own let us be willing to drop, but that which 
 is divine let us ever " hold fast." 
 
 It will be unpardonable in me to detain you by any 
 lengthy remarks of mine. I hasten, therefore, to introduce 
 to you these honored brethren and fellow laborers, who, 
 though we see them this evening for the first time, we do 
 not regard as strangers, but "esteem them very highly in 
 love for their work's sake." 
 
 Mr. John K. Bncklyn, of Mystic Bridge, Conn., 
 principal of a well-known educational institution, and 
 an efficient Sabbath-school worker, was the first of the 
 Americans to speak. He related how work in the 
 Sabbath School was carried on in his community, and 
 spoke of the means employed to engage the interest 
 and attention of both young and old, referring espe- 
 cially, in this connection, to the Sabbath-school con- 
 cert, an institution so well known and appreciated in 
 America. 
 
 Rev. Dr. Blythe, secretary of the Union, remarked 
 
90 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 that the Sabbath-school concert was new to them, and 
 expressed the wish that the other speakers might tell 
 of the methods of work pursued in American schools. 
 
 Rev. J. Thorburn, of Ottawa, Canada, spoke of 
 the normal school, and of the needs of a pure and 
 elevated Sunday-school literature, and before closing 
 his remarks, expressed the hope that an excursion of 
 teachers to America, such as the chairman had sug- 
 gested, might be carried out ; in which case he trusted 
 they would not overlook Canada. 
 
 Mr. O. B. Bruce, of Binghamton, N. Y., began a 
 genial speech by addressing his hearers as "brither 
 Scots," and this token of his origin was received with 
 much favor. He explained that he was not himself a 
 native of Scotland, but could claim that honor for his 
 father. He said if the warmth and greatness of heart 
 that existed in the old country were known on the 
 other side of the ocean, the maps would be recon- 
 structed, and certain countries would appear thereon 
 upon an enlarged scale. He then proceeded to speak 
 of Sunday Schools, calling attention more especially 
 to the field presented for work among the lower 
 classes. 
 
 Rev. N. B. Fisk, of Marlborough, Mass., made a 
 short address upon the general topic of the evening. 
 In opening his remarks he said that although he could 
 not claim the honor of Scotch descent, as could his 
 brother Bruce, he could say the next best thing : he 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 91 
 
 had made a Scotch woman his wife, and he most 
 cordially advised his young American friends to fol- 
 low his example. 
 
 Dr. Tourjee was next introduced, and in a brief 
 address called attention to music as an important 
 agent in the church and Sabbath School. The truths 
 of the Bible could be sung into the hearts of the 
 young in tender, touching melodies, better than they 
 could be carried there in any other way. The sing- 
 ing of children should be made a part of the service 
 in the church. Music was a universal language, and 
 the power of song was great. In closing his remarks, 
 Dr. Tourjee referred to the happiness that had been 
 afforded to the members of his party and himself by 
 the day's experiences, and by the pleasant meeting 
 then in progress. 
 
 The closing address of the evening was delivered 
 by Thomas Eobertson, Esq., of Edinburgh, who said 
 he arose to re-echo the welcome that had been ex- 
 tended by the chairman. The Sabbath-school move- 
 ment in America reached a magnitude far in advance 
 of what could be seen in Scotland. He spoke of a 
 recent visit paid to the United States, and of the great 
 pleasure he had experienced in visiting some of the 
 Sabbath Schools there, and in becoming acquainted 
 with some of their methods of operation. The speak- 
 ers who had enlightened the meeting during the even- 
 ing, in such a whole-souled way, regarding their 
 
92 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 methods of work, were worthy of thanks. Pie there- 
 fore moved a vote of thanks to all who had spoken, 
 and the same was adopted. 
 
 The addresses were interspersed with some very 
 fine singing by the choir of the Lauriston Place 
 United Presbyterian Church, under the direction of 
 Mr. John Sneddon. The sacred selections sung com- 
 prised the following : — 
 • 
 
 " Psalm 72 (old metrical version) : — 
 
 * His large and great dominion shall from sea to sea extend.' 
 
 —Tune, 'Effingham.' 
 
 " Hymn 309 (United Presbyterian Hymnal) :— ' 
 ' We plough the fields and scatter the good seed on the land.' 
 
 " Hymn 233, by Henry Smart :— 
 
 ' Hark, hark my soul.' 
 
 " Hymn 303, by Herbert Oakeley :— 
 
 ' Sun of my soul, thou Saviour dear ' 
 
 " Sentence : — 
 
 1 Our soul waiteth for the Lord.' " 
 
 At the suggestion of Rev. Dr. Ely the, Mr. Sneddon 
 and his excellent choir added two purely Scotch songs, 
 which were charmingly sung, and warmly appreciated 
 by the guests. These were, "My Dear Hicland Lad- 
 die O," by Tannahill, and an old air, entitled, " Saw 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. . 93 
 
 ye Johnnie coinin'." " The Angel of Hope," by Eeich- 
 ardt, was also finely sung. 
 
 The American party was early astir Friday morn- 
 ing, and after a "plain breakfast," repaired by rail to 
 Melrose, where, before entering upon an inspection of 
 the famous old abbey, we were provided with another 
 and more substantial repast, at the George and Abbots- 
 ford Inn, one of the three principal public-houses of 
 that place. Our ride was over what is known as the 
 i Waverley Eoute," one of the lines of the North Brit- 
 ish Railway. The distance from Edinburgh to Melrose 
 is, to be precise, 37J- miles, and the country through 
 which the- traveller passes, is rich both in natural scen- 
 ery and in historical associations. We were approach- 
 ing the beautiful home of Sir Walter Scott, his last 
 resting-place, and the spots most revered by the great 
 novelist. This northern enchanter has invested the 
 beautiful border-land with romantic interest, and never 
 did a region of equal extent supply -more history and 
 tradition for such a pen. The route is, for a little way, 
 along the river Esk, and its chief tributary, and for a 
 longer distance along the Gala Water, until the latter 
 stream unites with the river Tweed, near Abbotsford. 
 The Moorfort Hills lie upon the west, and the long 
 line of Lammermoo*r Hills upon the east. The whole 
 course is lined with ancient castles, some mere masses 
 of ivy-decked ruins, and others still preserved as the 
 homes of noblemen and wealthy land-holders. On 
 
94 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 leaving Edinburgh, the traveller passes under a spur 
 of Calton Hill, by means of a tunnel, and soon after 
 gains a last view of Holyrood, with the rugged Salis- 
 bury Craigs as a background. Portobello is a pretty 
 suburb situated on the shores of the Firth of Forth ; 
 just beyond is Craigmillar Castle, once the abode of 
 Mary Queen of Scots. At Dalkeith is the palace and 
 extensive park of the Duke of Buccleuch. Near Dal- 
 housie Station, are Newbattle Abbey, and the scat of 
 the Marquis of Lothian. The approach to the Moor- 
 fort Hills is very picturesque. On the right is Borth- 
 wick Castle, and on the left, the remains of Crichton 
 Castle. The former (built in 1430) formed a retreat 
 for Queen Mary and Both well, and when the barons 
 under Morton invested the place, the queen escaped 
 in male attire, disguised as a page. The castle was 
 partly destroyed by Cromwell in 1650. JNear Gore- 
 bridge, are observed the ruins of Newbyres Castle ; 
 near here, too, are the remains of a Roman camp. 
 Just beyond Stow, are the ruins of Ewe Castle, on the 
 right, and Gunzion and the Castle of Torsonce, on the 
 left. Nennius informs us that at the Castle Gunzion, 
 King Arthur defeated the Pagans, carrying on his 
 shoulder a cross made at Jerusalem, after the likeness 
 of the true Cross. Galashiels is a manufacturing place 
 much given to the production of " Scotch tweeds," and 
 " Gala tartans." All this and much more is seen in 
 the hour's ride. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 05 
 
 Melrose Abbey is by the side of the railway, and 
 but a short distance from the station. Sir Walter 
 Scott wrote, — 
 
 " If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright, 
 Go visit it by the pale moonlight." 
 
 This we did not do, but we saw it under the favor- 
 ing circumstances of a bright, sunny summer morning, 
 when all nature seemed beautiful, and when the shade 
 of the crumbling and ivy-clad wails invited the stroller, 
 and led him almost as well to dreams of the past, when 
 the beautiful Gothic Jpile was peopled by hooded 
 monks. The abbey is one of the most perfect, as well 
 as most beautiful, relics of Gothic magnificence in 
 church building. Founded in 1136 by David I., and 
 dedicated to the Virgin, it was colonized by Cistercian 
 monks. The other abbey buildings being razed, the 
 church alone remains. This is two hundred and fifty- 
 eight feet long, extending east and west, and one hun- 
 dred and thirty-seven feet wide. The carvings and 
 mouldings about the doorways and great windows are 
 of great delicacy and beauty, and it may be easily 
 ascertained that even the parts hidden from view are 
 wrought with equal fineness, — a state of things which 
 is quite at variance with the American style of con- 
 struction, which generally seeks only to produce a fair 
 exterior. Images and heads of stone, some reared in 
 pious veneration, and others of a grotesque kind, such 
 
96 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 as were common ornaments of palaces and abbeys in 
 the olden time, are seen on every side ; some of the 
 statues are without arms, and others arc lacking heads. 
 In a gracefully-canopied niche, over the principal en- 
 trance, formerly stood a figure 'of the Saviour. Time 
 has wrought less change in the grand old pile, and in 
 the details of its ornamentation, than the violence of 
 man. The English plundered the edifice in 1321, and 
 it was four years after restored by King Robert the 
 Bruce. Richard II. burned it in 1384. Sir Ralph 
 Evers and Sir Bryan Latoun plundered it in 1545 ; and 
 in the course of the same year the Earl of Hertford, 
 who had come to Scotland upon the " rough wooing," 
 by command of Henry VIII., followed their ex- 
 ample. At the time of the Reformation it was pillaged 
 once more ; and then Cromwell battered it with can- 
 non from Gattonside, which lies just across the river 
 Tweed. In one place, high upon the wall, are statues 
 of St. Andrew, and the Madonna and Child. The 
 head of the infant is demolished. Morton, in his 
 "Monastic Annals of Teviotdale," says: "Tradition 
 reports that when the person who was employed to de- 
 stroy the statues in the building (1649) was striking 
 at this image, a piece of it fell and hurt his arm, which 
 was disabled ever afterwards." " Superstition," he 
 adds, "proved here, though rather late, an antidote to 
 blind zeal, and to this circumstance is probably owing 
 the preservation of the few statues that are left in the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 97 
 
 sixty-eight niches still remaining in the different parts 
 of this highly-finished edifice." Among the grotesque 
 carvings are many quaint heads, and in one place a 
 sow playing on a bagpipe, which may be taken as a 
 piece of severe sarcasm on the national music. In 
 allusion to the magnificent eastern window, whose 
 delicate and beautiful tracery is yet preserved, Sir 
 Walter Scott says, in the "Lay of the Last Min- 
 strel":— 
 
 "Thou wouldst have thought some fairy's hand 
 'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand 
 In many a freakish knot had twined ; 
 Then framed a spell when the work was done, 
 And changed the willow wreath to stone." 
 
 One of the best views of the ruins is had from the 
 neighboring churchyard, where many an hour might 
 be spent in scanning the old monuments to the dead, 
 although more ancient burial-places are found within 
 the abbey. Alexander II., one of the greatest of the 
 early Scottish kings, was buried beside the high altar 
 in 1248. Many of the mighty Douglases lie buried 
 here, and the heart of Robert the Bruce was deposited 
 in this place, after the attempt of Sir James of Doug- 
 las to carry it to the Holy Land. The king's body 
 had been interred at Dunfermline. The grave of 
 Michael Scott, the famed " Wizard of the North," is 
 pointed out, but it is doubtful whether he lies buried 
 here or at Home Coltrame in Cumberland. It is 
 
98 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Michael Scott who stands credited with the clefts in 
 the neighboring Eildon Hills, which lift their triform 
 tops gracefully above the town. The remains of Sir 
 David Brewster are buried just outside the abbey 
 wall. Among the curious epitaphs in the churchyard, 
 the following, singularly appropriate in such a place, 
 is worth transcribing : — 
 
 " The earth goeth The earth builds 
 
 on the earth on the earth 
 
 Glistring like gold. Castles and towers ; 
 
 The earth goes The earth says 
 
 to the earth to the earth 
 
 Sooner than it wold ; All shall be ours." 
 
 The mode of life of the monks found much con- 
 demnation at the time of the Reformation, and there 
 were many satires written thereon. Sir Walter Scott 
 has preserved the following extract from one of 
 these : — 
 
 " The monks of Melrose made fat kail 
 On Fridays when they fasted ; 
 And neither wanted beer nor ale, 
 As long as their neighbours' lasted." 
 
 On leaving Melrose Abbey we took carriages for 
 Abbotsford. One-half the party had already pre- 
 ceded us there, and they now took our places at the 
 abbey. The ride was delightful, and the visit to the 
 charming spot selected by Sir Walter Scott as his 
 home during his later years, was more delightful still. 
 

 THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 99 
 
 The house, pleasantly situated on the banks of the 
 • Tweed, environed by beautiful gardens, lawns, and 
 shrubbery, remains almost wholly as the great poet 
 and novelist left it. The contents of several of the 
 rooms are exactly the same as when their great owner 
 breathed his last, September 21, 1832. Abbotsford 
 has been denominated a " poem in lime and mortar," 
 and with good reason. Not only is its situation full 
 of beauty and poetical suggestiveness, but the im- 
 press of the poet's hand is left on all around — in the 
 arrangement and adornment of the house, and in the 
 tasteful and romantic surroundings. It was a "fitting 
 seat for a great poet, and one that he himself had 
 wholly planned. There is scarcely a tree that does 
 not owe its existence to his planting. The Abbots- 
 ford property principally extends southward, includ- 
 ing within its bounds Cauldshields Loch, a sheet of 
 water from whence emanates a rivulet running through 
 the Ehymer's Glen, the traditionary rendezvous of 
 True Thomas of Ercildoune with his elfin love, the 
 Fairy Queen. The walls of the edifice are largely 
 made up of quaint and curious fragments, many of 
 them from castles, abbeys, and historic sites, all woven 
 into a picturesque mass of masonry. 
 
 The present proprietor, who married into the Scott 
 family and then changed his name to that of Scott, 
 keeps the house, or a portion of it, open as a sort of 
 museum, and thither go thousands of pilgrims every 
 
100 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 year. The rooms accessible to strangers are the hall, 
 study, drawing-room, library, armory, dining-room, 
 and a little closet-like apartment leading from his study, 
 where Sir Walter is said to have found a quiet retreat 
 when troublesome visitors appeared. The library is 
 in several of these rooms, and comprises some 20,000 
 volumes. The lower ranges of shelves are covered by 
 wire network to prevent the books from being handled, 
 and perchance pilfered. An attempt was made, some 
 years ago, to steal some valuable relics contained in a 
 glass case. The walls, not covered by books or pic- 
 tures,* are adorned with ancient weapons and other 
 relics. Among the more remarkable objects seen 
 upon the walls, or elsewhere, are the following: A 
 large sword found on Bosworth field ; a Koman camp- 
 kettle ; a huge war-horn from Hermitage Castle ; Rob 
 Boy's gun ; the sword presented to Montrose by 
 Charles I. ; a cross of pearl which belonged to Mary 
 Queen of Scots ; the pistol of Grahame of Claver- 
 house ; the spurs of Oliver Cromwell ; the hunting- 
 flask of James VI. ; pistols, a portfolio, and a half-used 
 stick of sealing-wax found in Napoleon's carriage after 
 the battle of Waterloo; "thumbikins," and other 
 implements of torture ; the iron mask worn by Wis- 
 hart, the martyr, at the stake, to prevent him from ad- 
 dressing the people ; relics from the old " Tolbooth " 
 in Edinburgh ; and a silver urn presented to Sir Wal- 
 ter by Lord Byron. The skull of Bruce is also said 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 101 
 
 to be kept here, but is not now shown to visitors. 
 Locked within a glass case are the clothes worn by Sir 
 Walter just previous to his death ; and even his walk- 
 ing-slick and forest accoutrements are also preserved. 
 Among the many pictures are family portraits of the 
 Scotts, including one of Sir Walter's ancestor, 
 "Beardie," who suffered his beard to grow neglected, 
 in token of his sympathy for the broken fortunes of 
 the Stuarts, and another, by Sir William Allan, of Sir 
 Walter's eldest son as an officer of the 18th Hussars ; 
 Amias Camrood's painting of the head of Queen Mary 
 on a charger, the day after her execution ; full length 
 portraits of Essex, Oliver Cromwell, Claverhouse, 
 Charles II., John Dryden (by Sir Peter Lely), &c. 
 There is also a bust of Scott by Chantrey, which is 
 said to bear a remarkable likeness to the original, and 
 a copy of the Stratford bust of Shakespeare. Even 
 the furniture possesses historical value, for an ebony 
 writing-desk was the gift of George III., an antique 
 drawing-room set, in ebony, the gift of George IV., 
 and some elbow-chairs the gift of one of the popes. 
 
 Sir Walter is not buried here, nor at Melrose, but 
 in Dryburgh Abbey, which is ^.vg miles south-east of 
 Melrose. 
 
 Returning by carriage from Abbotsford to Melrose, 
 we once more took the railway, and sped on towards 
 London, still on the line of the " Waverley Route." 
 This took us through Hawick, a manufacturing town, 
 
102 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 situated on the river Teviot, and near which is Brank- 
 some Tower, celebrated in Scott's " Lay of the Last 
 Minstrel," Biccarton, and some other unimportant 
 places, before we passed through the Cheviot Hills, 
 and into England, in the direction of Carlisle. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD . 103 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 Entering England — By Special Train to London — The Midland 
 Railway and the Midland Country — European Railways and 
 their Peculiarities — The Approach to the Great Metropolis — 
 The Midland Grand Hotel — Seeing London — The Metropolis 
 and its Immensity — How London has Overgrown its Ancient 
 Limits — The Busiest Spot in the Whole World — Means of 
 Travel in the Great City — The Metropolitan Railway and the 
 Hansom Cabs — The Houses of Parliament and their Adornment 
 — Westminster Hall — Westminster Abbey — Whitehall — Char- 
 ing Cross — Trafalgar Square and its Monuments — The National 
 Gallery — The Strand — Temple Bar — The Temple, &c. 
 
 The thoughtful American, upon entering England, 
 or any part of Great Britain, cannot but feel something 
 akin to native pride, for in spite of present national 
 distinctions, broadened, too, by three thousand miles 
 of ocean, there is a common ancestry to look back 
 upon, besides a common language which also makes us 
 kin. Not that he forgets his own loved land, but he 
 is brought into communion with institutions under 
 which his fathers lived, and to scenes w T hich they 
 loved. In the presence of towns, palaces, and castles 
 built many centuries ago, and with the constantly re- 
 curring records of the long past, it seems but a span 
 back to the day when a handful of Englishmen set sail 
 
104 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 
 for that distant shore to found a new nation. The 
 history of England has extended over so great a period, 
 and has been so prolific of great events and of great 
 results, that the little land, not as large territorially as 
 many of our single States — the islands of Great Britain 
 and Ireland altogether being of less area than some of 
 them — stretches by an illusion, as Emerson tersely 
 puts it, to the dimensions of an empire. 
 
 Without weeks, months, and years at our command, 
 it could hardly be expected that our explorations would 
 reach to every interesting place — indeed, to more than 
 a few of the many ; but we made good use of our 
 time. "Yes," says Emerson, "to see England well 
 needs a hundred years ; for what they told me was the 
 merit of Sir John Soane's Museum in London — that it 
 was well packed and well saved — is the merit of 
 England ; it is stuffed full, in all corners and crevices, 
 with towns, towers, churches, villas, palaces, hospitals, 
 and charity-houses. In the history of art, it is a long 
 way from a cromleeh to York Minster ; yet all the 
 intermediate steps may still be traced in this all-pre- 
 serving island." 
 
 As already intimated, we crossed the Scottish bor- 
 der near Carlisle. This is a very ancient city, having 
 been originally occupied by the Britons, and after- 
 wards by the Romans. Under the name of Luguval- 
 lum, it was one of the chief stations on Hadrian's 
 Wall. King Arthur is said to have held his court 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 
 
 105 
 
 here. Carlisle Castle is said to have been built by 
 William Rufus. The place suffered much in the early 
 wars, and also in the Civil War, when it espoused the 
 cause of Charles I. It is a city of something over 
 thirty thousand inhabitants, and is not only an impor- 
 tant manufacturing place, but also a great railway 
 centre. We here joined the Midland Railway, on 
 which we continued through to London. This line ex- 
 tends not only from London to Liverpool, but also to 
 Scotland, the cars running over portions of other rail- 
 ways both to Edinburgh and Glasgow, above Carlisle. 
 It was on the Midland system that we had come 
 through from Edinburgh, and a special express train 
 was furnished by that corporation for the Tourjee 
 party, as will be seen by the following official notice 
 and time-table : — 
 
 Midland Railway. 
 
 Time-Table of Special Express Train with Passengers conveyed from 
 New York to Glasgow by Steamsliij) " Devonia," under the manage- 
 ment of Messrs. Cook, Son, Sr Jenkins, from Edinburgh (Waverley 
 Station) to London (St. Pancras Station), Friday, July 12th, 1878. 
 
 Edinburgh, . dep. 7 30 a. m. 
 
 Melrose, 
 Carlisle, . 
 
 u 
 
 Sldpton, . 
 
 .t 
 
 Leeds, 
 Nornianton, 
 
 a 
 
 Chesterfield, 
 Trent, . . 
 
 u 
 
 Leicester, 
 
 arr. « 30 " 
 
 dep. 12 30 p. m. 
 
 arr. 2 " 
 
 dep. 2 10 " 
 
 arr. 4 5" 
 
 dep. 4 10 " 
 
 pass 4 47 " 
 
 arr. 5 " 
 
 dep. 5 30 " 
 
 pass 6 22 " 
 
 6 53 
 
 7 
 
 arr. 
 dep. 
 
 arr. 7 26 
 dep. 7 31 
 
 For Melrose Abbey and Abbots- 
 ford. 
 
 Station for Bolton Abbey. 
 Junction for Manchester. 
 
 Dine in New Dining-Hall. 
 
 Centre of Derbyshire Coal-Fields 
 — Curious Church Spire. 
 
 Junction for Nottingham. 
 
 Trent College on the right, ap- 
 proaching Station. 
 
106 
 
 A SUMMEU JAUNT 
 
 Kettering, . pass 8 6 p. m. 
 
 Bedford, 
 
 St. Albans, 
 London, . 
 
 arr. 
 dep. 
 
 pass 
 
 8 36 
 8 39 
 
 9 17 
 9 45 
 
 Derby, July, 1878. 
 
 Baptist mission founded hereby 
 William Carey, a century ago. 
 
 "Pilgrim's Progress," written in 
 Bedford Gaol — "Bunyan Mon- 
 ument, recently erected — 
 Shortly after leaving Bedford 
 pass Elstow, Bunyan's birth- 
 place, on right. 
 
 The Ancient Abbey of St. Al- 
 bans to the right of Line. 
 
 James Allport, General Manager. 
 
 The distance from Edinburgh to London is 404 
 miles, and the time-table contemplated only six stops 
 after leaving Carlisle, or eight altogether, including 
 the four hours' halt at Melrose, the others aggregating 
 just one hour additional. This would leave nine 
 hours and fifteen minutes for the running time. The 
 schedule was pretty closely adhered to, only one 
 additional stop being made ; but we did not reach our 
 destination until about half an hour after the ap- 
 pointed time. Certainly not a very serious hindrance. 
 
 During the ride we had an opportunity to study 
 the English railway methods to a considerable extent, 
 and our subsequent journeyings enabled us to com- 
 pare them somewhat with those of several of the 
 continental countries, as well as with our own. The 
 Midland is a well-managed road, and its provisions 
 for the comfort and safety of its passengers seem to 
 be of the best. Our train was made up of thirteen 
 first-class carriages, all of the compartment kind, and 
 there was ample room for the entire party without 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 107 
 
 crowding, so that the journey was made very com- 
 fortably. The shape and arrangement of the foreign 
 cars quickly strike the attention of an American trav- 
 eller. Everything is entirely different, except that 
 on some of the roads — the Midland was the first to 
 adopt them — American Pullman cars are to be seen. 
 The Old Colony and Fall Eiver line runs some of the 
 English style of coaches between Boston and New- 
 port, so that at home we are not wholly unfamiliar 
 with the foreign style of cars. All the early Ameri- 
 can cars were built somewhat after this pattern. 
 The entrance is from either side, and a car is divided 
 into compartments, the vehicle being made to look 
 like a series of amalgamated coach-bodies. Abroad 
 a single car will sometimes contain first, second, and 
 third-class compartments, and others will be made up 
 wholly of one class. On the English roads, and on 
 many of the continental roads, -the traveller is locked 
 in, and cannot get out until he is let out by the guard 
 or a porter. On some of the German roads, and on 
 one or two of the English roads also, the door is 
 secured by an extra latch, easily reached by the pas- 
 senger ; but is not locked. In such cases the traveller 
 is informed of the fact by a notice conspicuously 
 posted within the car, and at the same time warned 
 against the dangers thus likely to arise. Should he 
 attempt to enter or leave a carriage while the train is 
 in motion, or by any means except by the door on the 
 
108 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 platform side, he is made liable to a penalty. There 
 are inconveniences attaching to the European style of 
 cars ; but one thing may be said of them, and of the 
 modes of governing the railways generally — that the 
 safety of the passengers is much better looked after 
 than in America. On some of the Swiss roads there 
 are cars open at the ends, like our American cars, but 
 the interior is arranged differently, though with a due 
 regard to comfort. There is a series of compartments 
 opening into each other, generally with two seats on 
 one side and one on the other, the aisle running 
 between. Some of the compartments on the German 
 roads will hold a dozen persons, and have seats 
 arranged on all sides, with a table in the centre, and 
 two doors on either side. There are similar com- 
 partments on some of the English trains, and they 
 are, of course, very comfortable and convenient for 
 families or parties. Most of the compartment car- 
 riages, however, have a double row of seats facing 
 each other, so that half the occupants are compelled 
 to ride backwards. The practised traveller abroad 
 chooses the front seat, and rides backwards, thus 
 escaping the draft and cinders. There are sometimes 
 only six seats in a compartment ; but generally eight, 
 and sometimes ten. The second-class carriages gen- 
 erally seat the latter number, but the upholstering is 
 in leather instead of cloth, and less expensive than in 
 the first-class carriages, where there is always an 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 109 
 
 abundance of room, and luxurious appointments. 
 The third class is plainer than either, and more 
 crowded. There is upon some lines a fourth class, 
 and upon some of the continental railways the accom- 
 modations vouchsafed under that head are little better 
 than our cattle-cars. As a general thing the Euro- 
 pean railway carriages are exceedingly comfortable, 
 but a source of great discomfort and complaint is 
 found in the fact that the cars are very seldom pro- 
 vided with the conveniences invariably found in Amer- 
 ican cars. The frequent stops made by the trains are 
 supposed to meet this defect, but even then the trav- 
 eller must in most cases await the motions of the 
 guard in order to get out. 
 
 The American traveller quickly learns that it is the 
 invariable custom abroad to travel with as little luggage 
 as possible ; and here, let me remark, that "baggage" 
 always becomes "luggage," the former term never 
 being heard in Great Britain except from Yankee lips. 
 There is generally much perplexity in the care of 
 luggage, this arising chiefly from the lack of the 
 checking system, which forms such a great source of 
 convenience with us in America, and in some measure 
 from the annoyance attending its care and the cost of 
 transportation. Of portmanteaus, satchels, bundles 
 in shawl straps, and small packages generally, one 
 sees plenty, and commodious racks are supplied in all 
 the cars for their reception ; but trunks are compara- 
 
110 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 tively few. Those huge structures of the " Saratoga " 
 pattern, which form an especial object of hatred and 
 revenge on the part of the American baggage-smasher, 
 would prove veritable elephants abroad. Every piece 
 of luggage too heavy for the passenger to convey in 
 his own hands is " lifted " at the station by a porter, 
 never by the cabman, who, indeed, does not leave his 
 seat. The same service is performed at the hotel, and 
 must be paid for accordingly. At the station, before 
 the departure of the train, the heavy packages are 
 weighed, and all extra weight be} r ond the regular limit 
 is charged for. The trunk, package, or whatever it 
 may be, is properly labelled and then placed by the 
 porter in the luggage-van. On alighting it must be 
 claimed personally, and another porter must be feed 
 to carry it to the waiting cab. In certain countries, 
 the transportation of all luggage must be paid for by 
 weight, and the general limit, except in Great Britain, 
 is only fifty-six pounds for each person. There is a 
 registering system in vogue, which is something akin 
 to our checking system, but it is not nearly as com- 
 prehensive, nor a hundredth part as convenient. 
 Upon the payment of a small fee the traveller receives 
 a receipt, and under its provisions the railway officials 
 take full care of the luggage until it reaches its desti- 
 nation. This is a source of great convenience, in 
 default of something better, especially in travelling 
 to or from the Continent, where detentions of ordi- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. Ill 
 
 nary luggage at the custom-houses frequently occur, 
 and are sources of much annoyance. But of all 
 these intricate details the members of the Tourjee 
 party had no opportunity of gaining intimate knowl- 
 edge, except by observation and inquiry, for in actual 
 experience there was nothing of the kind. All details 
 regarding the moving and transportation of luggage, 
 as well as all matters pertaining to the "booking" and 
 carrying of the traveller himself, were carefully looked 
 after, or provided for, by the conductors of the party. 
 And here let it be said, there is no such thing as a 
 ticket-office on the line of a British railway ; it is a 
 booking-office. 
 
 The locomotives, no less than the cars, have their 
 peculiarities, and these are quite striking. They are 
 smaller than American railway engines, the engine- 
 men have little protection from the -weather, and in 
 place of the great flaring smoke-stack and a super- 
 abundance of steam- whistle, there is a small, straight 
 cylinder for the one, and an exceedingly limited sup- 
 ply of the other. The whistles arc not as loud, nor 
 are they used as much. Their signals are sounded in 
 short, quick notes, and the unearthly shrieks so com- 
 mon to American roads, both in city and country, are 
 unknown. There is less reason to give warning notes 
 than with us, for there are few roads crossed at grade, 
 and walking on the railway tracks is wholly prohib- 
 ited. Even the crossing of the tracks in a large 
 
112 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 station is not permitted, except by an elevated way or 
 an underground passage. The whole business of run- 
 ning trains is managed much more quietly than with 
 us. When a train arrives in a station, there is but 
 little noise comparatively, and when one leaves but 
 little warning is given. The passenger is supposed to 
 be in his place, and the guard sees that the door is 
 shut. When the time arrives the train moves out, 
 generally without any previous .intimation whatever. 
 In some parts of Germany the departure of trains is 
 controlled by gongs, or bells, which arc struck by means 
 of electricity from some central point ; and in various 
 parts of the Continent the guard gives the signal by a 
 blast on a horn, or by ringing a small bell. In Ger- 
 many, by the way, the locomotives resemble the 
 American machines more than elsewhere, unless it be 
 in Russia. The mode of coupling cars, and the ilse 
 of a peculiar spring "buffer," renders the train less 
 liable to jolting or jarring than is the case with the 
 heavy American cars. The whole train starts at the 
 same moment, and is stopped at once, the different 
 carriages being drawn closely together, and made, in 
 fact, one continuous vehicle. There is sometimes 
 considerable rolling motion to the cars, when they are 
 running at high rates of speed, but very high rates of 
 speed are never reached, except on some of the Eng- 
 lish roads, and there only in the case of particular 
 trains, which rush along at the rate of forty, forty- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 113 
 
 five, and even fifty miles an hour. The "Flying 
 Dutchman," on the London and North- Western line, 
 is one of these rapid trains. The French, Italian, 
 German, Dutch, and especially the Swiss lines, run 
 their trains at a much slower rate, twenty-five miles 
 an hour being a high rate of speed, while many 
 of the trains do not exceed fifteen. On our run 
 down to London we did some rapid travelling, 
 the train once or twice attaining a rate of sixty 
 miles an hour. In one instance we ran a distance of 
 eighty-three miles without stopping. On the English 
 roads, generally, persons may accompany their friends 
 to the platform, or meet them there, but in other 
 European countries they can get no further than the 
 waiting-rooms, of which there are different grades for 
 the different classes. In such stations, and indeed 
 almost everywhere, the passengers cannot gain access 
 to the cars until within a few moments before the 
 departure of the train. 
 
 There are many features an American traveller 
 misses on the European railway trains ; and chief 
 among them are the peanut and candy boys, and the 
 book-venders. It is an open question whether all the 
 inconveniences experienced are not fully compensated 
 for by their absence. The passenger can doze away in 
 his corner without the responsibility of balancing upon 
 his knees a small pyramid of books, magazines, illus- 
 trated newspapers, and packages of prize-confection- 
 
114 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ery. If he desires a supply of literature of any kind, 
 in the form of newspapers, guide-books, or something 
 of a more substantial sort, he can obtain it readily 
 enough at the inevitable book-stall in any of the large 
 stations through which he passes ; and well-appointed 
 and cheap restaurants are quite as prevalent. In many 
 places there are different restaurants for the different 
 classes of passengers, the real distinction being that a 
 sandwich or a glass of beer costs less when handed 
 over a deal counter than across a slab of polished 
 marble. The bar is a fixture at every restaurant, and 
 throughout Great Britain the attendants in this branch 
 of the establishment are almost invariably women. 
 The "barmaid" is a British institution, to which the 
 traveller soon becomes accustomed, whether he is in- 
 clined to become a practitioner at the " bar " or not, 
 inasmuch as the drinking is carried on openly, and 
 without the least effort at concealment. The bar- 
 maids, at the railway stations at least, have a general 
 appearance of modesty as well as of neatness, and they 
 are doubtless selected, in most instances, with some 
 view to personal beauty and attractiveness. Their 
 appearance and behavior are certainly of a much better 
 sort than their calling would seem to induce. In 
 Great Britain, not only ale but great quantities of the 
 fiercer spirits are consumed ; but on the Continent very 
 little is sold in the way of beverages, except beer and 
 light wines. The former has even obtained a strong 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 115 
 
 foothold ill France, where it is known, not under its 
 German generic title, but as Boc. At some places on 
 the continental roads light refreshments and wines are 
 brought to the car windows. 
 
 The foreign railway carriages tend to keep travellers 
 much, more exclusive than the American railway cars, 
 wherein fifty or seventy-five passengers are thrown 
 together in one apartment, and this plan is suited to 
 the English idea of travelling much better than ours. 
 Caste draws its lines pretty rigidly in the Old Country, 
 and the Englishman does not " mix " as his American 
 cousin is wont to do. He might ride facing you for a 
 clay without showing the slightest sign of curiosity re- 
 garding you or yours, or without showing, by any 
 outward token, that he is even aware of your presence, 
 unless it chances that you are encroaching upon his 
 personal rights, fancied or real. Your entrance in a 
 carriage, which a little party has hoped to keep all to 
 itself, is very likely to provoke scowls and repellant 
 looks ; but pretty much the same spirit is shown with 
 us, where a passenger seeks to monopolize adjacent 
 seats by filling them with packages or shawls, and 
 then committing the extra fraud of telling every fresh 
 comer that the "other" person is coming back soon. 
 This little game does not work as well on the English 
 trains, for the passengers cannot absent themselves 
 from their proper places while the train is in motion. 
 No pleasanter way to travel in parties can be devised 
 
116 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 than is provided for by the foreign railway system. 
 "Where the traveller is thrust into a little compartment 
 with utter strangers the case is different decidedly, but 
 where all are friends or acquaintances the journey may 
 be made all the more delightful because of the com- 
 parative exclusivencss. On the Midland road, at 
 least, four first-class passengers can secure a compart- 
 ment to themselves upon advanced application to the 
 proper officials, or a family or party of seven or more 
 may secure a family carriage, such as we have else- 
 where described, and which is provided with lava- 
 tories, &c. Invalid carriages are also provided at a 
 minimum charge of four first-class fares. 
 
 But of our journey. Our route extended through 
 the central portion of Cumberland, of which Carlisle 
 is the capital or county-seat, and Westmoreland ; 
 thence through the West Riding of Yorkshire, which 
 includes the great manufacturing districts around Leeds 
 and Sheffield ; and afterwards through Leicestershire, 
 across Northampton, and through Bedfordshire, and 
 Hertfordshire into Middlesex, within the borders of 
 which London is partly situated. The country through 
 which we passed is generally under a high state of cul- 
 tivation, although certain sections, principally in West- 
 moreland and north-western Yorkshire, are made up of 
 mountains and barren moors. In the mining districts, 
 too, there are bare patches ; but nearly everywhere the 
 country presents the closely tilled and utilized appear- 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 117 
 
 ance seen in America only in proximity to the largest 
 cities, where land is clear. The crops were plentiful, 
 and in England vegetables of all kinds abound. Some 
 sections of the country through which we rode are cel- 
 ebrated for sheep-raising, although the famous South- 
 downs come from an entirely different part of the 
 island. Many flocks of fine sheep were seen grazing 
 on the hillsides and moors. We crossed or ran beside 
 many rivers, some of which have found praise in the 
 exalted songs of poets ; but many of these little 
 streams, with their quiet pastoral beauty, are neglected 
 by the American, who intends to measure everything 
 he sees by what he has left behind him, and who dis- 
 misses with contempt every rivulet because it is not a 
 Mississippi, — or at least a Hudson or a Connecticut, — 
 and every cascade because it is not a Niagara. 
 
 Skipton was the first important place that was 
 reached ; and this is of little account to the traveller, 
 except as the junction for Liverpool and Manchester, 
 on coming over the Midland line from the north. A 
 little further down the Aire is the great manufacturing 
 city of Leeds, smoky and grimy like our Pittsburgh ; 
 a few miles distant is Bradford, another important 
 manufacturing place. Normanton is a place of little 
 importance, aside from its railway connections; but it 
 will be gratefully remembered by our party for an 
 excellent dinner, which was served in the spacious 
 dining-room of the handsome new station belonging to 
 
118 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the Midland company. Three hundred and fifty rail- 
 way trains pass through Normanton daily. Sheffield 
 was left a little to the west ; but our nearness to a great 
 manufacturing centre was readily shown by the well- 
 laden goods trains, and the smoke. Chesterfield is in 
 the middle of the Derbyshire coal-producing district, 
 but the chief peculiarity in its appearance is a remark- 
 able twisted church spire, 230 feet in height, which 
 belongs to an edifice dating back to the thirteenth cen- 
 tury. Not far from Clay Cross is Hardwick Hall, 
 where Queen Mary was for some time imprisoned. 
 Trent (119^ miles from London, upon the river of the 
 same name), is the junction place of the other portion 
 of the Midland Kailway system, which runs through 
 Derby and Matlock to Liverpool, and also of a line 
 running to Nottingham and Lincoln. The handsome 
 buildings of Trent College are seen on approaching 
 the station. The ancient town of Leicester, which was 
 a populous Saxon city at the time of the Conquest, is 
 the next place of importance. Some traces of the 
 ancient walls are said to exist, and several fine Roman 
 pavements have been discovered. Richard III., 
 after his death on Bosworth Field, was buried here, 
 and Cardinal TV r olsey died here in 1530. The manu- 
 facturing interests of Leicester are largely centred in 
 the making of hosiery. The famous " Stilton " cheese 
 is manufactured in Leicestershire. Market-Harbor- 
 ough is a well-known market town on the Wellan d 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 119 
 
 River. Charles I. had his headquarters here previous 
 to the battle of Naseby. Near Rushton, which is a 
 small station near Kettering, the conspirators in the 
 Gunpowder Plot are said to have met. Kettering is a 
 market town, and a railway leads thence to Cambridge. 
 It was already night, and when Bedford was reached 
 we could see but little except its lights. It was in 
 Bedford jail that Bunyan wrote his "Pilgrim's Pro- 
 gress," and in the neighboring village of Elstow he 
 was born, in 1628. A handsome monument to Bunyan 
 has lately been erected in Bedford. St. Albans, like 
 Bedford, was in dark shadow, and we had to take it 
 for granted that the ruins of the ancient abbey could 
 have been seen by daylight. 
 
 The approach to London is indicated by the greater 
 frequency of the villages, which flash upon us through 
 the darkness as we rush by, through, over or under 
 them. Soon long, regular lines of gas-lights appear, 
 and soon, after another plunge of a mile, through Bel- 
 size Tunnel, we roll into the enormous St. Pancras 
 station,* the train-shed alone of which is 700 feet long, 
 243 feet wide, spanned by a single arch, and 100 feet 
 high. 
 
 Up to this point our entire party had travelled 
 together, except during the tour of the Scottish lakes, 
 where it had been necessary to divide it into two 
 sections. A further and more permanent division 
 now took place, the first and fifth sections being 
 
120 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 assigned to the Midland Grand Hotel, the second and 
 third to the Inns of Court Hotel (High Holborn and 
 Lincoln's Inn Fields), and the fourth to the Terminus 
 Hotel (adjoining the London, Brighton, and South 
 Coast Bailway station). To reach the Midland Grand, 
 where about one hundred of us were assigned, re- 
 quired a walk from the railway platform, where we 
 alighted, to one extremity of the station, the hotel, a 
 huge Gothic edifice of red brick, having been erected 
 by the railway company in connection with their ter- 
 minus. Nearly all the railways running into London 
 have hotels at their terminal stations ; an arrangement 
 which proves of great convenience to the traveller 
 who intends to make only a brief halt in the metropo- 
 lis and does not care to look up quieter and less 
 expensive lodgings. The Midland is the chief of 
 these great railway caravansaries, and was built at an 
 enormous cost. It is seven or eight stories high, the 
 lower ranges of apartments being extremely high 
 studded, and presents an imposing front along Euston 
 Itoad and when approached from the direction of 
 King's Cross, a high clock-tower adding to it propor- 
 tions at one end. There are upwards of four hundred 
 bed-rooms ; but the house is on too vast a scale to be 
 altogether comfortable, although it is well conducted, 
 as such things go. 
 
 Our survey of London did not begin until the mor- 
 row, Saturday, July 13 ; and then, it is but fair to 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 121 
 
 say, the American visitors made themselves exceed- 
 ingly busy. It was not expected that the vast city 
 could be thoroughly inspected in the time allotted to 
 our stay. London is a world in itself, and many 
 months might be passed merely in a cursory view of 
 its streets, its parks, its museums, and other public 
 institutions ; its churches, its palaces, its monu- 
 ments, and its many, many places of historic or 
 storied interest. London covers an area of 122 
 square miles, and its population is fully four millions. 
 It is said to contain over 7,400 streets, which, if lying 
 end to end, would extend 2,600 miles. Its 528,794 
 buildings include 1,100 churches, 7,500 public houses, 
 1,700 coffee-houses, and 500 hotels and inns. The 
 Metropolitan Police District, which extends from 
 twelve to fifteen miles in every direction from Charing 
 Cross, embraces an area of 698 square miles, with 
 6,600 miles of streets and roads. Regarding the 
 cosmopolitan character of the great city, some idea 
 may be formed when it is known that it contains more 
 Scotch residents than Edinburgh, more Irish than 
 Dublin, more Welsh than Cardiff, more Jews than 
 Palestine, and more Roman Catholics than Rome. 
 The visitor to London may not, at first, be struck by 
 its immensity. He lands in one of its great railway 
 stations, perchance at night, and is whirled away in a 
 cab to his hotel, and only sees the bustling world 
 around him ; but when he extends his observations, 
 
122 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 
 journeying for hours in any direction, to find himself 
 still environed by the same crowded and busy city, 
 the truth dawns upon him irresistibly. Let him 
 mount to the lantern of St. Paul's, and, if the day be 
 not exceptionally clear, he fails to discern the outer 
 verge of the thickly populated district. The murky 
 atmosphere, which continually hangs like a pall over 
 the great city, independent of the much-talked-of 
 London fog, has, of course, much to do with this cir- 
 cumscribed range of vision ; yet the eye may sweep a 
 vact expanse of territory. Close at hand — so close, 
 in fact, between London and Blackfriars bridges, that 
 the minute water craft may be scanned — is the river 
 Thames, whose sinuous course seems to divide this 
 labyrinth in nearly equal parts, although, in truth, the 
 larger part of the thickly populated district lies upon 
 the north bank. Here and there the eye rests upon 
 the great parks, which seem like oases in the bound- 
 less human desert, but over on the other side 
 of these cheerful patches of green, stretch away 
 into the dun-tinted obscurity, farther conglomerated 
 masses of buildings. In addition to The City — the 
 ancient London, and now its great business centre — 
 and Westminster, which was formerly another place 
 altogether, London contains eight parliamentary bor- 
 oughs, while sixty outlying villages have, in the 
 course of time, become constituent parts of the great 
 metropolis. The City maintains a separate corporate 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 123 
 
 existence, and within its borders the Lord Mayor 
 holds sway. The resident population of The City is 
 comparatively small, inasmuch as its territory is 
 chiefly occupied for business purposes. Its western 
 border extends only to the site of Temple Bar, and 
 Southampton Buildings, while London Tower is just 
 without its eastern limit, the boundary line being 
 Bishopgate Without, Petticoat Lane, Aiclgate, and 
 the Minories. The Thames washes the southern 
 border, and the northern boundary line extends along 
 Holborn, Smithfield, Barbican, and Finsbury Circus. 
 This is a small area compared with the present ex- 
 panse of the metropolis, but it contains St. Paul's, 
 the Bank of England, the General Post-Office, the 
 Custom-House, and the great commercial mai'kets of 
 the world. It is said that three-quarters of a million 
 of business men enter the city in the morning and 
 leave it in the evening for their suburban residences. 
 At night, the population of the city proper dwindles 
 down to less than 75,000 ; and the number is annually 
 growing less, as business structures crowd out the few 
 remaining habitations. The scarcity of actual resi- 
 dents becomes apparent on Sunday, when it is possible 
 to walk through street after street without meeting a 
 solitary human being, where a few hours before there 
 were visible unceasing tides of busy, struggling 
 humanity. Within the walls of the ancient city were 
 more than one hundred parishes, but modern improve- 
 
124 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 merits have caused some very odd changes in the old 
 ecclesiastical divisions. The whole of one parish was 
 absorbed by what is now an open space in front of the 
 Royal Exchange ; another was entirely obliterated by 
 the Post-Office Building ; still another was swept away 
 by the opening of Holborn Viaduct ; and a railway 
 station and two houses occupy the former limits of 
 a fourth. In the churches that remain, the parish- 
 ioners are few, but the increased value of prop- 
 erty has largely added to the worth of the livings, 
 so that clergymen are easily found to take them in 
 charge. 
 
 The busiest place in the whole world, during busi- 
 ness hours, is doubtless the open space in front of the 
 Royal Exchange. In the vicinity are the Bank of 
 England and the Mansion House (the official residence 
 of the Lord Mayor during his term of office), the 
 Stock Exchange, Lombard Street, and many of the 
 great commercial headquarters, in addition to the 
 Royal Exchange. Into this vortex eight thorough- 
 fares pour endless streams of humanity. In a single 
 thoroughfare, Cannon Street, twelve thousand vehicles 
 pass in twelve hours, and the only reason that the 
 number is not greater is that the street is only thirty- 
 six feet wide. At London Bridge, where the road- 
 way is forty-one feet wide, from sixteen thousand to 
 twenty thousand vehicles, and one hundred thousand 
 pedestrians, pass daily ; and through Bishopgate 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 125 
 
 Street, only twenty-two feet wide, pass eight thou- 
 sand or more vehicles. 
 
 What is called the great fire of London, broke out 
 in a baker's shop in Pudding Lane, about one o'clock 
 Sunday morning, September 2, 1666. It raged furi- 
 ously until the afternoon of Wednesday, September 5. 
 In all, three hundred and ninety-six acres were burned 
 over ; fifteen of the twenty-six wards of the city were 
 swept clean, and eight others were partially destroyed ; 
 four hundred streets were swept out of existence, and 
 thirteen thousand two hundred dwellings, eighty-nine 
 churches, four of the city gates, together with a great 
 number of costly private and public edifices, were 
 destroyed. The spires and domes of the churches 
 rebuilt after the fire are painted black, and some idea 
 of the extent of the burned territory may be formed 
 by viewing these dingy reminders of the great calam- 
 ity from St. Paul's, or from the Monument, a shaft 
 two hundred and two feet in height, which was erected 
 in commemoration of the fire, very near the place 
 where the conflagration broke out. The dome and 
 spires of St. Paul's bear the same significant token 
 that the present noble edifice arose on the ashes of an 
 older structure. 
 
 The " West End " of London, which is the fashion- 
 able quarter of the metropolis, contains the club- 
 houses, most of the palaces and town residences of 
 the nobility and gentry, and most of the places of 
 
126 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 amusement. The "East End" includes miles of 
 docks. Below London Bridge all the heavy shipping- 
 lies, and in addition to the river-front, there are vast 
 docks which contain thousands of ships. As already 
 intimated, "The City" is the only portion of London 
 that has what may strictly be called municipal rights. 
 The rest of the vast territory is divided into thirty- 
 nine districts, each of which has a separate and dis- 
 tinct administration. Each has its separate vestry 
 and poor-law systems, its special taxes, and its own 
 arrangements for courts, for militia, for gas, for water, 
 &c. There is no central bureau for anything except 
 police administration, for which special purpose a 
 Metropolitan District was created. The Board of 
 Works is a national commission. There has been of 
 late years a growing desire for a consolidation of all 
 these divided interests into one vast whole, with an 
 equal division of municipal advantages, and this result 
 is likely to be brought about at no distant day. With 
 all the chances for corruption and mal-administration 
 such a centralization of power might open, the London 
 tax-payer would unquestionably be directly benefited 
 by the change. A grand City Hall, to be erected at 
 the Blackfriars end of the Thames Embankment, on 
 land now owned by " The City," is already talked of, 
 and the " City " authorities have signified to the Home 
 Secretary their willingness to co-operate in any move- 
 ment which shall tend to decrease taxation. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 127 
 
 A very curious phenomenon connected with Lon- 
 don, and tending to show its greatness as a city, was 
 noted many years ago. It was discovered that vege- 
 tation was earlier, by from ten to fourteen days, on 
 the west and south-west sides of the city, than else- 
 where. This arose from the fact that the severity of 
 the north and north-east winds is mitigated by the 
 fires in the city. Another curious fact was also 
 shown; viz., that in the winter season the tempera- 
 ture at night was higher than in the day, when the 
 solar rays were intercepted by smoke. 
 
 "What London will eventually become," wrote 
 Frederick Ross, in the "London City Press," a few 
 years ago, "it is idle to predict. It already stands in 
 four counties, and is striding onward to a fifth (Herts). 
 The probability is that by the end of the century the 
 population will exceed five millions, and will thus have 
 quintupled itself in the century. Should it progress 
 at an equal rate in the next, it will, in the year two 
 thousand, amount to the enormous aor^resrate of twen- 
 
 Co O 
 
 ty-five millions ; and the question that naturally arises 
 is, How could such a multitude be supplied with food? 
 But the fact is, that the more its population increases 
 the better they are fed. In the Plantagenet days, 
 when the population was not a third of a million, fam- 
 ines were of frequent occurrence ; but now, with the 
 command of the pastures, the harvests, and the fisher- 
 ies of the world, starvation becomes an almost impos- 
 
128 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 sible eventuality, even with twenty-five millions of 
 mouths to feed." 
 
 No other city in the world — not even Paris, with its 
 grand system of omnibuses and tramways — possesses 
 such varied and extensive means of intercommunica- 
 tion as London. Steam is used not only on the river 
 to propel the numberless little ferry-boats, by which a 
 person may journey from one point to another at the 
 cost of a few pennies (for certain distances for a single 
 penny), but also on the Metropolitan railways, which, 
 for the most part, burrow underground. There are 
 fourteen chief terminal stations at which the great rail- 
 way lines running to various parts of the country enter 
 the metropolis, and most of these external lines are 
 intercepted or approached by the Metropolitan system, 
 which forms a more important artery of intramural traffic 
 than any of the means of communication found on the 
 surface. The "inner circle" forms an almost com- 
 plete belt around the whole of the inner part of Lon- 
 don, and various spurs, or branch lines, diverge to the 
 outlying districts. There are numerous stations, for 
 the lines traverse the most populous districts, and 
 over a million passengers are carried every week, at an 
 average rate of about twopence per journey. These 
 lines run chiefly under the streets or houses by means 
 of tunnels, but, in places, through cuttings between 
 high walls. Between Blackfriars and Westminster the 
 cars run beneath the Thames Embankment. Taking 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 129 
 
 all the railway lines together, there are in London 
 more than one hundred and fifty stations. Through one 
 of its junctions (Clapham) seven hundred trains run 
 daily. On the Metropolitan Railway, trains are run 
 every three or five miuutes, so that passengers have 
 no need to study a time-table, but merely descend 
 from the street-level at one of the numerous stations, 
 and await the coming of the next train, unless some 
 important connection is desired, in which case ample 
 information is given on placards, or in time-tables and 
 railway guides. Riding on the "Underground" is by 
 no means an unpleasant sensation. There are three 
 classes of carriages, as on other railways, with graded 
 prices, and in all cases the cost of a journey is very 
 cheap., The locomotives consume their own smoke 
 and cinders, so that little inconvenience is experienced 
 on that score. The tickets are collected, not in or at 
 the train, but at a gateway on the passage out. The 
 same rigid regulations are applied here as on other 
 lines, to prevent crossing the tracks, and the passenger 
 is compelled to descend on the side he is to enter the 
 train, his ticket being scanned and punched as he de- 
 scends the stairs on his way to the cars. " Stealing a 
 ride " is thus rendered an impossibility. At one or 
 two points different underground railways are found at 
 different levels, but the subterranean lines are chiefly 
 on the same level. 
 
 Besides the railwnys, subterranean and otherwise, 
 
130 A SUMMEJR, JAUNT 
 
 there are many thousands of tram-cars, omnibuses and 
 cabs traversing the streets. The tram-cars are what 
 are termed in America horse-cars, and of these there 
 are several lines, chiefly in the outlying districts, or 
 leading therefrom. The English were slow to adopt 
 this Yankee invention, and the present lines have come 
 into being for the most part since 1870. The cars dif- 
 fer from the American pattern somewhat, but are com- 
 fortable, while their use is economical. The omnibuses, 
 of which there are lines running to all parts of Lon- 
 don from the important centres like the Bank, Charing 
 Cross, &c, are also very convenient. There are, alto- 
 gether, over one hundred lines, which cross the metrop- 
 olis in every direction, and there is no better or 
 cheaper way for the stranger to see London than to 
 fake a ride, or a series of them, by the 'bus, as the 
 vehicle is familiarly known. Gentlemen have an advan- 
 tage over ladies in this, inasmuch as they can avail 
 themselves of the top seats, which afford an unob- 
 structed view ; while a seat near the driver, or at the 
 rear end on the side the conductor or guard takes his 
 position, is found preferable, as those officials are gen- 
 erally very communicative. The London Omnibus 
 Company, which runs the principal lines, keeps in 
 activity from eight o'clock in the morning until mid- 
 night, nearly 600 vehicles, and annually carries over 
 fifty millions of passengers. The cabs are of two 
 kinds, the "four-wheeler" and the "Hansom," and arc 
 
TIIEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 131 
 
 very numerous. The cab-drivers number upwards of 
 ten thousand. There are " stands " at every important 
 point, but it is seldom that it becomes necessary to go 
 to them, as a cabman may be signalled from the edge- 
 stone almost anywhere. The "four-wheelers" are 
 small and uncomfortable, although intended for four 
 passengers inside, while a fifth can ride beside the 
 driver. The "Hansoms," which take their name from 
 the inventor, are intended for two persons, besides the 
 driver, who sits in an elevated seat at the rear of the 
 vehicle. They resemble the old-fashioned American 
 chaise, except that the body of the vehicle is much 
 lower, and the driver's seat projects behind. The view 
 in front is unobstructed, and communication is had 
 with the driver through a little trap-door in the roof. 
 In front, a wooden guard or "boot" may be closed for 
 protection against mud or storm. These two-wheelers 
 arc driven about much more easily and rapidly than 
 the "four-wheelers," and for persons who are unen- 
 cumbered by luggage are- very convenient, as well as 
 exceedingly comfortable. Fares are reckoned by dis- 
 tance, unless the cab is expressly hired by time, and 
 the charge for a drive of two miles or under is only 
 one shilling, a sixpence being charged for each addi- 
 tional mile or fraction of a mile. A "tip" to the 
 driver may be expected in addition, but is not obli- 
 gatory. The fare covers the expense for two persons. 
 " Cabby " never alights to assist his passengers in or 
 
132 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 out, and it is always well to have the exact amount of 
 money required, and generally to have a definite under- 
 standing as to what the amount should be. In cases 
 of misunderstanding, however, the dispute may be 
 settled at the nearest police office, and the driver is 
 compelled to take his passenger there if commanded to 
 do so. The "Fly" is an open vehicle resembling the 
 Parisian voiture de remise, and is best adapted to 
 driving in the parks or in the country. They must, as 
 a general thing, be ordered from a livery-stable, and 
 the charges for their use are somewhat higher than for 
 the cabs. 
 
 Enough has been shown, I think, to demonstrate 
 that the stranger may get # about London readily 
 enough, and very cheaply. 
 
 There are several objects in the metropolis which 
 every stranger visits. These are Westminster Abbey, 
 St. Paul's, the Tower, and the British Museum. Few 
 depart without visiting the South Kensington Museum 
 and the Albert Memorial (certainly none should do so) , 
 and there are hundreds of other interesting places 
 which may be seen incidentally or in special excursions. 
 The Houses of Parliament may be included in the visit 
 to Westminster Abbey, on Saturday only, as that is 
 the only day in the week those buildings are thrown 
 open to the public ; and then, even, it becomes neces- 
 sary to obtain a Lord Chamberlain's order. This is a 
 mere formality, however, and involves nothing more 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 133 
 
 than a personal application at the Chamberlain's office, 
 near the Victoria Tower, at the time of the visit, 
 which must be made between the hours of ten o'clock 
 and four. As Saturday was the clay upon which our 
 inspection of London began, the Houses of Parliament, 
 or the New Palace of Westminster, as the vast collec- 
 tion of buildings is also known, formed an early objec- 
 tive point for most of us. As Parliament had not yet 
 been prorogued, a few members of the party also suc- 
 ceeded in obtaining admission to some of the sittings in 
 the ensuing week. For admission to the Strangers' 
 Gallery during the sessions of Parliament, a member's 
 order, obtainable through the American Embassy, to 
 of course a very limited extent, is requisite. On the 
 approach to the western end of the Palace (from the 
 cast) , in the Old Palace yard, the visitor sees Baron 
 Marochetti's equestrian statue of Eichard Cceur de 
 Lion. 
 
 The present Houses of Parliament have been erected 
 since 1840, from plans by Sir Charles Barry, and 
 occupy a site on which a royal palace has existed since 
 the time of Edward the Confessor. The former struct- 
 ure was for the most part destroyed by fire in 1834. 
 Westminster Hall, built by Eichard II., towards the 
 close of the fourteenth century, and which was the 
 hall of the ancient palace, was saved, and is now 
 incorporated in the new palace. On the west side 
 of Westminster Hall are the law courts, but the 
 
134 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 building in which they are accommodated does not 
 harmonize with the newer structure, and it is to be 
 removed upon the completion of the new law courts 
 in the Strand. The entire area occupied by this vast 
 jule is about eight acres. There are one thousand one 
 hundred rooms, one hundred staircases, and some two 
 miles of corridors and passages. The river-front is 
 the most imposing. From one extremity to the other 
 the distance is nine hundred and forty feet, and the 
 magnificent towers rise to a great height above the 
 general line of the palace itself. These towers are 
 the crowning glories of the vast structure. The 
 Clock Tower at the north-east corner is three hun- 
 dred and twenty feet high, and the four dials of the 
 great clock are twenty-three feet in diameter. There 
 are several bells, the largest of which weighs thirteen 
 tons. The middle tower is three hundred feet high, 
 and the Royal, or Victoria Tower, at the south-Avest 
 corner, one of the largest structures of the kind in the 
 world, is seventy-five feet square and three hundred 
 and forty feet high. The material employed for the 
 outer masonry is magncsian limestone, from Anston, 
 in Yorkshire, but unfortunately it has already begun 
 to crumble. The river terrace is built of granite. 
 The architecture is of the revived Gothic, and the 
 ornamentation is everywhere very elaborate. The 
 chief public entrances are through Westminster Hall, 
 or at the south end, near the Victoria Tower. The 
 
THItOUGII THE OLD WOULD. 135 
 
 Lord Chamberlain's office is near the latter, and the 
 royal entrance is beneath the tower. The impression 
 produced by the interior is, in its way, quite as im- 
 posing as that of the exterior. Lavish magnificence 
 is everywhere shown, and the effect is in admirable 
 keeping with the exalted purpose of the building, 
 which is closely associated with the highest govern- 
 mental affairs of the nation. The royal apartments 
 especially are very richly adorned, down to the 
 minutest detail. Ascending the staircase near the 
 Victoria Tower, and passing through the Norman 
 Porch, the Queen's Eobing-Eoom is first reached. 
 This is a handsome apartment, forty-five feet in length, 
 and the walls are decorated with frescoes from the 
 Legend of King Arthur, by Dyce. Next is the Eoyal 
 or Victoria Gallery, one hundred and ten feet in 
 length, through which the Queen proceeds in solemn 
 state to the House of Lords, when she opens or pro- 
 rogues Parliament. This noble apartment contains 
 the celebrated frescoes by Maclise, representing on 
 one side the "Meeting of Wellington and Blucher 
 after the Battle of Waterloo," and on the other "The 
 Death of Nelson." At the opposite end is the Prince's 
 Chamber, which serves as a kind of ante-room to the 
 House of Lords when royalty is received, and which 
 contains John Gibson's marble group of the Queen 
 supported by Justice and Mercy. In panels are full- 
 length portraits of English monarchs of the Tudor 
 
136 A SUMMER JAU^T 
 
 period (1485 to 1603), with those of princes and 
 princesses of the realm, and consorts of the kings and 
 queens. Henry VIII., with his numerous wives, 
 Mary Queen of Scots, and Queen Elizabeth, are in 
 this collection. The House of Lords, or Peers, is 
 the grandest apartment in the palace, though smaller 
 than the legislative halls in Washington. It is ninety- 
 seven feet in length, forty-five in width, and forty-five 
 in height. The decorations, which are in the Gothic 
 style, are sumptuous, but the accommodations for 
 members are by no means extravagant in style or 
 fittings. The benches for the four hundred and thirty- 
 four members are covered with red leather, and are 
 unprovided with desks. These seats occupy the 
 greater part of the floor, although space is reserved 
 for the bar of the House, and for the traditional 
 "Woolsack," a sort of cushioned ottoman, upon which 
 the Lord Chancellor takes his seat. The throne is in 
 the centre, at the northern extremity of the House, 
 between the doors leading to the Prince's Chamber. 
 Upon the right, at a lower level, is the chair of the 
 Prince of Wales, and upon the left that of the sov- 
 ereign's consort. These grand chairs of state, and 
 their lofty canopies, are richly gilded. The Eeport- 
 ers' Gallery faces the throne, and above it is the 
 Strangers' Gallery. The northern and southern walls 
 are adorned with magnificent frescoes, three at either 
 end. "The Baptism of Ethelbert," by Dyce, "Ed- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 137 
 
 ward III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the 
 Black Prince," and "Henry Prince of Wales com- 
 mitted to prison by Judge Gascoigne," both by Cope, 
 above the throne ; and the " Spirit of Religion," by 
 Horsley, in the central compartment above the Stran- 
 gers' Gallery ; with the " Spirit of Chivalry " and the 
 "Spirit of the Law," both by Maclise, on either side. 
 There are twelve stained glass windows, lighted at 
 night from the outside, and between them are eighteen 
 niches, with statues of the barons who were deputed 
 to obtain the Magna Charta from King John. Each 
 of the twelve lofty windows has eight compartments, 
 and these contain the portraits of all the kings and 
 queens of England since the Conquest. 
 
 The Peers' Lobby, and the Peers' Robing-Room, the 
 latter containing a fine fresco by J. R. Herbert, " Moses 
 Bringing down the Tables of the Law to the Israelites," 
 with spaces for eight other scriptural works by the 
 same artist, are visited, but the Libraries and Refresh- 
 ment Rooms of both Houses are closed against the pub- 
 lic. The Peers' Corridor, which contains eight fres- 
 coes, the subjects of which are taken from English his- 
 tory (one of them being "The Embarkation of the 
 Pilgrim Fathers to New England"), leads to the cen- 
 tral hall, a noble apartment, sixty feet in diameter, 
 which is adorned by numerous statues of kings and 
 queens, and lighted by lofty windows of stained glass. 
 There are four lofty Gothic doorways leading from this 
 
138 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 hall to important departments of the buildings, and 
 four lesser exits to various private rooms. Upon 
 the mosaic pavement is the following significant 
 inscription, in the Latin of the Vulgate: "Except 
 the Lord keep the house their labour is but lost 
 that build it." The great doorway, on the east 
 side, leads to two waiting-rooms, the chief of which 
 is called the Hall of Poets, on account of its adorn- 
 ment with eight frescoes, the subjects of which are 
 taken from as many celebrated poets. Chaucer fur- 
 nishes "Griselda's First Trial of Patience," by C. W. 
 Cope ; Spenser, " St. George Overcoming the Drag- 
 on," by G. F. Watts; Shakespeare, "Lear Disinherit- 
 ing Cordelia," by J. It. Herbert; Milton, "Satan 
 touched by Ithuriel's Spear," by J. C. Horsley ; Dry- 
 den, "St. Cecilia," by J. Tenniel ; Pope, "The Per- 
 sonification of Thames," by Edward Armitage ; Scott, 
 "The Death of Marmion," by Armitage; and Byron, 
 "The Death of Lara," by Cope. On the staircase is 
 a statue by J. H. Foley, of Sir Charles Barry, the 
 architect of the palace. Passing through the Com- 
 mons' Corridor, the w r alls of which are adorned with 
 eight frescoes, the subjects of which, like most of the 
 others, are w T ell-known events in English history, and 
 the Commons' Lobby, we come to the House of Com- 
 mons itself. This apartment is 75 feet in length, 45 
 in width, and 41 in height, and though handsomely 
 ornamented, is in a much simpler and more business- 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WOELD. 139 
 
 like style than the House of Lords. Although there 
 are 658 members of the popular branch, seats arc pro- 
 vided for only 476. The seat of the Speaker is at 
 the north end of the chamber. The benches to the 
 right of the Speaker are the recognized seats of the 
 government party, the ministers occupying the front 
 bench, and on the left are the members forming the 
 opposition, the leaders of which occupy the front bench, 
 like the ministers on the other side. In front of the 
 Speaker's table is the Clerk's table, on which lies the 
 mace. The Reporters' Gallery is above the Speaker, 
 and there are also seats for the diplomatic corps, a 
 Speaker's Gallery, a Peers' Gallery, and a Strangers' 
 Galleiy. The house is lighted at night through a 
 glass ceiling. Beyond the House of Commons lie the 
 Speaker's Court, and the official residences of the 
 Speaker, the Sergeant-at-Arms, the Librarian, and the 
 Chief Clerk of the House of Commons. Returning 
 to the central hall, we pass through its west door to 
 St. Stephen's Hall, an apartment 75 feet long and 30 
 feet wide, which occupies old St. Stephen's Chapel, 
 founded in 1330, and long used for the meetings of 
 the Commons. Along the walls are marble statues 
 of celebrated statesmen, including Hampden, Selden, 
 Lord Falkland, Lord Clarendon, Lord Somers, Sir 
 Robert Walpole, Lord Chatham, Lord Mansfield, 
 Burke, Fox, Pitt, and Grattan. Niches at the sides of 
 the doors are occupied by statues of English sover- 
 
140 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 eigns. Thus displayed are the effigies of William the 
 Conqueror, Matilda, Eleanor, Richard Cceur de Lion, 
 and half a dozen other ancient monarchs. A small 
 staircase at one corner of this hall leads to St. 
 Stephen's Crypt (or more properly the Church of St. 
 Mary's Undercroft), where the embalmed body of an 
 ecclesiastic, supposed to be that of Stephen Lynd- 
 wode, Bishop of St. David's from 1442 to 1446, and 
 keeper of the Privy Seal to Henry VI., was found 
 some years ago. A broad flight of steps leads through 
 a high portal on the north side of St. Stephen's Hall, 
 and descends to Westminster Hall, a part of the an- 
 cient Palace of Westminster founded by the Anglo- 
 Saxon kings, and occupied by their successors down 
 to Henry VIII. Its length is 290 feet ; breadth, 68 
 feet ; height, 92 feet. The oaken roof, with its ham- 
 mer-beams, repaired in 1820 with the wood of an old 
 vessel, is rightly considered a masterpiece of timber 
 architecture, both in point of beauty and constructive 
 skill. Aside from the roof, the hall looks very plain 
 and bare, compared with the elaborately decorated 
 apartments in the new palace we have just left. 
 It is at present the temporary resting-place of several 
 statues of English monarchs. 
 
 Westminster Hall has been a celebrated place in 
 English histoiy through all ages. In it were held 
 some of the earliest English parliaments, one of which 
 declared Edward II. to have forfeited the crown. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 141 
 
 After its restoration by Eichard II. it witnessed the 
 deposition of that unfortunate monarch. Here, too, 
 the English monarchs, down to the time of George 
 IY., gave their coronation festivals ; and here Edward 
 III. entertained the captive kings, David of Scotland 
 and John of France. Here, Charles I. was con- 
 demned to death ; and Cromwell was here saluted as 
 Lord Protector. Within eight years after, Cromwell's 
 head was placed on one of the pinnacles of this same 
 hall, where it remained thirty years. Many famous 
 historical characters have here been condemned to 
 death, including the brave William Wallace, champion 
 of Scotland's liberties ; Sir John Oldcastle (better 
 known as Lord Cobham) ; Sir Thomas More ; the 
 Protector Somerset ; Sir Thomas Wyatt ; Eobert 
 Devereux, Earl of Essex ; Guy Fawkes ; and the 
 Earl of Strafford. Among other notable scenes here 
 witnessed were the acquittal of the seven bishops who 
 had been committed to the Tower for their opposition 
 to the Eoman Catholic innovations of James II., and 
 the acquittal of Warren Hastings after his long trial. 
 
 In Parliament Square, near both the palace and ab- 
 bey, are bronze statues of the Earl of Derby, Lord 
 Palmerston, Sir Eobert Peel, and George Canning; 
 and at the corner of Great St. George Street is a 
 handsome Gothic fountain, erected as a memorial to 
 the noble men who brought about the abolition of 
 slavery in the British dominions. 
 
142 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Westminster Abbey, with its royal burial vaults and 
 its numerous monuments to the great men of the past, 
 is one of the most interesting objects in London. It 
 forms a sort of national Temple of Fame, although 
 not all who have been buried beneath its grand arches 
 are worthy of this distinction. The abbey itself has 
 an interesting history. A church is said to have been 
 erected on the same site, in the early part of the sev- 
 enth century, by the Anglo-Saxon king, Scbcrt. This 
 was dedicated to St. Peter, and connected therewith 
 was a Benedictine religious house (monasterium or 
 minster). The term Westminster was applied on 
 account of its situation west of St. Paul's. This early 
 church was destroyed by the Danes, and then rebuilt, 
 in 985, by King Edgar. The regular establishment of 
 the abbey, however, should be ascribed to Edward 
 the Confessor, who built a large church on the same 
 site between 1049-G5. In the latter half of the thir- 
 teenth century the abbey was entirely rebuilt by 
 Henry III., and his son Edward I/, who left it substan- 
 tially in its present condition. The beautiful Chapel 
 of Henry VII. w T as erected by that monarch at the be- 
 ginning of the sixteenth century, and the towers, which 
 are not in keeping with the rest of the edifice, were 
 completed in 1714 from designs by Sir Christopher 
 Wren. At the time of the Eeformalion, the abbey 
 was confiscated, like all other Catholic establishments, 
 and the church was converted into the cathedral of a 
 
mkmm 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 143 
 
 bishopric. Under Queen Mary the monks returned, 
 but her successor, Queen Elizabeth, restored the pro- 
 visions of her father, Henry VIII., and conveyed the 
 abbey to a Dean who presided over a chapter of 
 twelve Canons. 
 
 The church is in the form of a Latin cross, and for 
 the most part is in the early English style of archi- 
 tecture, although in the various parts of the structure 
 all succeeding styles may be found. The Chapel of 
 Henry VII. is in the perpendicular style, and is one 
 of the finest specimens of the architecture of that 
 period now in existence. Its interior is especially 
 admired on account of its beautiful fan-tracery roof. 
 The stalls and banners of the Knights of the Order of 
 the Bath are within the chapel. The interior of the 
 main part of the abbey also produces a striking im- 
 pression, on account of the harmony of its proportions, 
 and the richness of its coloring. There are some 
 beautifully stained windows, and the columns are of 
 Purbeck marble. The choir is a beautiful specimen of 
 early English architecture, but an elaborate reredos 
 has been constructed within a few years. This is 
 made chiefly of white and colored alabaster from Staf- 
 fordshire, combined with red spar from Cornwall. In 
 a space above the altar table is a mosaic in Venetian 
 glass, representing the Last Supper. The total length 
 of the church, including the Chapel of Henry VII. , 
 is 513 feet; length of transept, 200 feet; breadth of 
 
144 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 nave and aisles, 75 feet; breadth of transept, 80 feet; 
 height from pavement to inner roof, 101 feet ; height 
 from pavement to the roof of the lantern, 140 feet; 
 height of towers, 225 feet. 
 
 The visitor may wander over the chief parts of the 
 abbey without let or hindrance, but the personal ser- 
 vices of a verger and the payment of small fee (six- 
 pence) is requisite for an inspection of the various 
 chapels, of which there are no less than nine. 
 Through the kindness and courtesy of Dean Stanley, 
 who has won the respect and esteem of Americans, as 
 well as of his own countrymen, the members of our 
 party who chose to avail themselves of a visit at an 
 hour appointed, received special attentions. Let the 
 visitor turn in any direction and he is constantly re- 
 minded that he is in the resting-place of England's 
 most precious dust. Says Dean Stanley, in his inter- 
 esting "Memorial of Westminster Abbey": "Here 
 lies the body of the Confessor, himself like the now 
 decayed seed from which the wonderful pile has 
 grown. Around his shrine are clustered not only the 
 names, but the early relics, of the principal actors in 
 every scene of history. Seventeen kings lie here, 
 from Edward the Confessor to George II. ; and ten 
 queens lie buried with them, amid England's greatest 
 statesmen, warriors, divines, poets, and scholars." 
 
 Not only is the ancient abbey the last resting-place 
 of more than a score of England's monarchs, but it 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 145 
 
 is also the scene of each succeeding assumption of 
 the crown and sceptre. Every king and queen of 
 England, from Edward the Confessor to Her Most 
 Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, was here crowned. 
 The ancient coronation-chair, which relic-hunters 
 and others have hacked and whittled until it pre- 
 sents a decidedly dilapidated appearance, occupies 
 an honored place in the chapel of Edward the 
 Confessor. Beneath it rests the famous Stone of 
 Scone, the emblem of power of the Scottish princes, 
 and traditionally claimed to be the one upon which 
 the patriarch Jacob laid his head. The stone was 
 brought to London by Edward L, in 1205, in 
 token of the complete subjugation of Scotland. 
 Every English monarch since that date has been 
 crowned in this chair. Beside it is a chair of similar 
 model, which was constructed for Queen Mary, wife of 
 William III. The coronation takes place within the 
 choir, and the chairs are then covered with gold bro- 
 cade. The royal cortege on such occasions enters the 
 abbey by a door which is at no other time opened. 
 Throughout the abbey the monuments of the dead crowd 
 upon each other as do the bodies which sleep below. 
 Statues, busts, and mortuary groups are erected above 
 urns and tombs, and memorial tablets are inserted in 
 the walls. In many places the tablets form a part of 
 the pavement itself. Of the Anglo-Saxon line of 
 monarchs, Sebert and his queen Athelgoda lie be- 
 
146 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 neath a marble sarcophagus. The shrine of Edward the 
 Confessor, once covered with precious gems, but now 
 bare of its rich adornments, occupies the chapel which 
 bears his name. Beside the Confessor, nine of the 
 early wielders of England's sceptre lie within the abbey. 
 Those warrior kings, Edward I., Edward III., and 
 Henry V., are enshrined in marble altar-tombs/ The 
 tomb of Henry VII. , is an elaborate structure within 
 the chapel built by that monarch. Lord Bacon termed 
 it " one of the stateliest and daintiest tombs in Europe." 
 A white marble sarcophagus, erected by Charles II., is 
 supposed to contain the remains of Edward V. and his 
 brother, Richard, Duke of York, who were murdered 
 in the Tower by order of their wicked uncle, Richard 
 III. Elizabeth and her sister Mary (" Bloody Mary") 
 rest side by side, and but a little distance from them 
 lies Mary Queen of Scots, whose body was removed 
 from Peterborough Cathedral to London by her son, 
 James I. Among the other monarchs buried within 
 the abbey are Henry III. ; the queens of both Edward 
 I. and Edward III. ; Richard II. and his queen ; 
 Anne, queen of Richard III. ; the queen of Henry 
 VII. ; Anne of Cleves, queen of Henry VIII. ; 
 Edward VI. ; James I. and his queen ; the queen of 
 Bohemia, daughter of James I. ; Charles II. ; Wil- 
 liam III. and Queen Mary ; Queen Anne ; George II. 
 and Queen Caroline. The north transept of the 
 abbey was consecrated to statesmen a century ago, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 147 
 
 when William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, was buried 
 there. Here, or rather just without the transept, in 
 the south aisle of the nave, sleep the two great rivals, 
 the younger Pitt and Charles James Fox, both of 
 whom died in 1806. Referring to this, their last 
 resting-place, Sir Walter Scott wrote : — 
 
 " The nrighty chiefs sleep side by side : 
 Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 
 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier ; 
 O'er Pitt's the mournful requiem sound, 
 And Fox's shall the notes resound." 
 
 Lord Mansfield, Grattan, George Canning, Wilber- 
 force, Lord Clarendon, Lord Castlereagh, Warren 
 Hastings, Earl Canning, and Lord Palmerston are 
 also buried here. The name of "Poet's Corner" has 
 been given to a large portion of the south transept. 
 Chaucer was buried in the cloisters of Westminster 
 Abbey, without the building, but removed to the 
 south aisle in 1555 ; Spenser lies near him. Beau- 
 mont, Michael Drayton, Sir Robert Ay ton, Sir Wil- 
 liam Davenant, Cowley, Denham, Dryden, Rowe, 
 Addison, Prior, Congreve, Gay, Ben Jonson, Sheri- 
 dan, and Campbell all lie within Westminster Abbey. 
 Bulwer is also buried here. Shakespeare was buried 
 in the chancel of the church at Stratford, where 
 there is a monument to his memory ; but a fine 
 statue of the great dramatist adorns the wall of the 
 "Poet's Corner." A slab upon the pavement marks 
 
148 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the grave of Charles Dickens, and near it is the tomb 
 of the composer, George Frederick Handel, sur- 
 mounted by a life-size statue, and emblems of music. 
 Lord Macaulay, as well as Dickens, rests beneath 
 Addison's monument. Henry Purcell, Dr. John 
 Blow, Dr. William Croft, Dr. Samuel Arnold, and 
 William Sterndale Bennett, all eminent musicians and 
 composers, and Dr. Charles Burney, the author of 
 the celebrated History of Music, are buried in the 
 abbey ; as are also several distinguished representa- 
 tives of the stage, including Betterton, Mrs. Oldfield, 
 Mrs. Braccgirdle, Mrs. Cibber, Henderson, Barton 
 Booth, and David Garrick. The latter has a fine 
 statue, and Booth a medallion, but the graves of the 
 others are unmarked. Mrs. Siddons and John Kem- 
 ble are commemorated by statues, though buried else- 
 where (Mrs. Siddons in Old Pacldington Church- 
 yard) ; and there are also memorials to John Milton, 
 Oliver Goldsmith, Robert Southey, James Thomson, 
 Wordsworth, Gray, Butler, and Thackeray. Milton is 
 buried at St. Giles's, Cripplegate ; Goldsmith in the 
 churchyard of the Temple Church ; Southey in Crosth- 
 waite Church, near Keswick; Thomson at Rich- 
 mond ; Gray at Stoke Pogis ; Butler at St. Paul's, 
 Co vent Garden ; and Thackeray at Kensal Green. 
 The following epitaph, written by the poet himself, 
 but supplemented by some gentler lines by Pope, is 
 inscribed upon John Gay's monument : — 
 
 "Life is a jest, and all things show it: 
 I thought so once, but now I know it." 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 149 
 
 The epitaph on the tablet to Henry Purcell informs 
 the world that the eminent composer " is gone where 
 only his own harmony can be exceeded." The grave 
 of David Livingstone, the explorer, who died in 
 Africa, in 1873, is in the nave, and is covered by a 
 large slab of black marble. In the centre of the 
 south transept is a white slab, which covers the re- 
 mains of " Old Parr," who is said to have lived to the 
 age of 152 years. The monument of Major John 
 Andre is one which attracts much attention from 
 American visitors. There are some small figures in 
 bas-relief representing the appeal to General Wash- 
 ington made the night previous to the execution, to save 
 Andre's life. It is a remarkable fact that twice the 
 head of Washington has been knocked off. The 
 figure now bears its third head. There are many re- 
 markable monuments, one of the most striking of 
 which is to the memory of Joseph Gascoigne Nightin- 
 gale and Lady Nightingale. The husband is repre- 
 sented as trying to shield his wife from the dart of the 
 King of Terrors, who has emerged from a tomb and is 
 pointing his unerring shaft toward her. The figures are 
 life-size. On a monument to General George Wade, 
 who died in 1748, the Goddess of Fame is preventing 
 Time from destroying the general's trophies. In the 
 chapdl of Abbot Islip, is a monument to the memory 
 of General James Wolfe, who was killed at the siege 
 of Quebec, in 1759. The brave soldier is represented 
 
150 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 as falling into the arms of a grenadier, while Glory, 
 in the form of an angel in the clouds, holds forth a 
 wreath to crown him. A Highland sergeant looks 
 sorrowfully on, and two lions watch at his feet. Near 
 the Nightingale monument (in the east aisle of the 
 north transept) is a fine monument to Sir Francis 
 Vere, a famous soldier in Queen Elizabeth's reign. 
 Four knights, kneeling, support a table upon which are 
 the several parts of a complete set of armor, and 
 beneath is a recumbent figure of Sir Francis Yere. 
 
 Without the main edifice of the abbey is the Jerusa- 
 lem Chamber, where Henry IY. died, and Edward Y. 
 is said to have been born ; the chapel of the Pyx, 
 which is claimed to be the most ancient of any of the 
 buildings; the cloisters, built partly by Henry III., 
 and partly by Edward I. ; and the Chapter House. 
 
 Westminster Column is a granite shaft, sixty feet 
 in height, just west of the abbey, erected to the mem- 
 ory of former scholars of the Westminster School who 
 fell in the War of the Crimea and the Indian mutiny. 
 In addition to the column, the monument includes 
 statues of Edward the Confessor, Henry III., Queen 
 Elizabeth (the founder of Westminster School) , and 
 Queen Yictoria. Four lions are at the corners, and 
 the column is surmounted by figures of St. George 
 and the Dragon. The entrance to the school is soutL 
 of the column. Westminster Hospital, one of the 
 many noble institutions of this kind London boasts, 
 
HENRY SEVENTH'S CHAPEL, WESTMINSTER ABBEY 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 151 
 
 is near the abbey, and is on the Broad Sanctuary, a 
 place formerly a sacred refuge for criminal and polit- 
 ical offenders. 
 
 Returning towards the city from the Parliament 
 Houses and Westminster Abbey, one naturally walks, 
 or rides, through Parliament Street and Whitehall, to 
 Charing Cross and Trafalgar Square; and, if the day 
 be not too far spent, a short visit may be paid to the 
 National Gallery ; and, in any event, the monuments 
 and statues in the square may be inspected. In pass- 
 ing through Whitehall, there are seen Montague House 
 (the town mansion of the Duke of Buccleuch), the 
 little that remains of Whitehall Palace, some of the 
 public offices, the Treasury, the Horse Guards, and the 
 Admiralty. The public offices, which extend into 
 Downing Street, a thoroughfare running at right 
 angles from Whitehall to St. James's Park, have an 
 imposing facade. The Banqueting Hall of the Palace 
 of Whitehall, now used as a Royal Chapel, is all that 
 remains of its former splendor ; indeed, it is the only 
 part that was rebuilt, the ancient palace having been 
 destroyed by fire. This structure was built in the 
 reign of James I., and, like the uncompleted palace, 
 was designed by Inigo Jones. The hall is a splendid 
 specimen of the Palladian style of architecture, one 
 hundred and eleven feet long, fifty-five and one-half 
 feet wide, and fifty-five and one-half feet high. The 
 ceiling is embellished with pictures by Rubens, repre- 
 
152 A SUMMEIt JAUNT ' 
 
 senting the apotheosis of James I., scenes from the 
 life of Charles I., &c. Some of the most tragic epi- 
 sodes of English history have been enacted in the old 
 palace, and the present edifice has witnessed many 
 exciting scenes. From an opening made in the wall, 
 Charles I. was led out to the scaffold erected for his 
 execution in the street close by. A little later the 
 Protector, Oliver Cromwell, took up his residence in 
 the same street, with his secretary, John Milton, and 
 here he died, September 3, 1658. Charles II. re- 
 stored his court here, and here, too, he died. 
 
 Near Charing Cross is the scene of the execution of 
 the Regicides ; and on the same spot is an equestrian 
 statue of their royal victim, which has a remarkable 
 history. The statue is by Hubert Le Soeur, and was 
 cast in 1633, but had not been erected when the civil 
 war broke out. It was then sold by the Parliament 
 to a brazier named John Rivet, and this individual 
 sold pretended fragments of it to both friends and 
 foes of the Stuarts, in the form of knife-handles, &c. 
 At the Restoration the statue was produced intact, 
 having been buried in the brazier's garden, and it was 
 erected on its present site in 1674. The United Ser- 
 vice Museum, containing objects connected with the 
 operations of the Army and Navy, is in Whitehall 
 Place, which opens eastward from Whitehall, towards 
 the Thames ; and, in the same vicinity, is Great 
 Scotland Yard (so called from the fact that it once 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 153 
 
 belonged to the Scottish kings") , the headquarters of 
 the Metropolitan Police. 
 
 The present Charing Cross is a modern copy of 
 Eleanors Cross, a Gothic monument erected in 1291, 
 by Edward I., on the spot where the coffin of his 
 consort was set down during its last halt on the way 
 to Westminster Abbey. The present monument stands 
 in front of the terminus hotel of the South-Eastern 
 Railway, but the site of the ancient cross (removed in 
 1647) is said to have been where the equestrian 
 statue of Charles I. stands. The finest adornment of 
 Trafalgar Square is the Nelson Column, a granite shaft 
 one hundred and forty-five feet in height, copied from 
 one of the Corinthian columns of the temple of Mars 
 Ultor, at Rome. The column is crowned by a statue 
 of Nelson, by Baily, seventeen feet in height, and the 
 pedestal is adorned with reliefs in bronze, cast with 
 the metal of captured French cannon. Four colossal 
 bronze lions, modelled by Sir Edwin Landseer, couch 
 upon pedestals running out from the column in the 
 form of a cross. The square contains two handsome 
 fountains, statues of Sir Henry Havelock, Sir Charles 
 James Napier, and Chantrey's equestrian statue of 
 George IV. 
 
 The National Gallery is situated upon a terrace, and 
 occupies the whole of one side of Trafalgar Square. 
 The building is in the Grecian style, and has a facade 
 460 feet in length. It was originally built between the 
 
15,4 A SUMMER JAUXT 
 
 years 1832-38, and was greatly enlarged in 1860 and 
 1876. The collection of paintings is large and is 
 exceedingly valuable. In the entrance hall are statues 
 of three distinguished painters — -Sir David Wilkie, 
 Mulready, and Stotharcl. There are eighteen rooms 
 devoted to paintings, as follows : I., British School of 
 the eighteenth and early part of the nineteenth cen- 
 turies, containing works by Sir Edwin Landscer, 
 Horsley, Pickersgill, Maclise and others, including 
 also Rosa Bonheur's celebrated picture, "The Horse 
 Fair" ; II., British School, containing works by Land- 
 seer, Stanficld, Turner, Sir Charles Eastlake, Mulready, 
 Herring, Simpson and others; III., British School, 
 containing works by Callcott, Hilton, Wilkie, Beechy, 
 Stothard and others ; IV. , devoted to water-colors and 
 drawings by Turner; V., British School, containing 
 pictures by Martin, Srnirke, Hay don, Barker and West ; 
 VI. , containing the admirable collection of paintings by 
 Turner, chiefly bequeathed by the painter himself; 
 VII., British School, containing works by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds, Hogarth, Copley, Gainsborough and others ; 
 VIII. , British School, containing works by Reynolds, 
 Lawrence, Copley and Wright ; IX., French School, 
 containing several fine pictures by Claude Lorraine, and 
 others by N. Poussin, Gaspar Poussin, Sebastien Bour- 
 don, Francois Clouet, C. J. Vernet, Hyacinth Rigaud, 
 &c. ; X., Later Italian School, including pictures by 
 Lodovico Caracci, Romano, Annib.il Caracci, Barbieri, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 155 
 
 Maratti, Guido Reni, Salvator Rosa, Domenichino, 
 Paolo Veronese, &c. ; XL, the Wynn Ellis gift, con- 
 sisting chiefly of specimens of the Dutch masters, 
 among whom the Teniers (both father and son) , Cuyp, 
 Wouverman, Vanclervelde, and other well-known 
 names are represented ; XII. , Dutch and Flemish 
 Schools, containing besides works of Rubens and Van 
 Dyck, the chiefs of the Flemish school of the seven- 
 teenth century, good examples of Rembrandt, their 
 great Dutch contemporary, and also of the latter's 
 pupils, Maas and De Hooghe ; XIII. , Italian School of 
 the fourteenth century, represented by Fra Angelico, 
 Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Filippino Lippi, and Polla- 
 juolo, of Florence, Mantegna, of Padua, Giovanni 
 Bellini, of Venice, &c. ; XIV., Italian School of the 
 fifteenth century, containing an extensive collection of 
 the works of the greatest Italian masters, particularly 
 those of Venice and Lombardy ; XV., Select Cabinet, 
 containing the gems of the collection, among which are 
 cabinet pictures by Bellini and Giorgione, master- 
 pieces by Raphael, Titian, Correggio, and Michael 
 Angelo, and specimens of Jan van Eyck, the founder 
 of early Flemish painting; XVI. , Peel collection, 
 chiefly of Flemish and Dutch cabinet pieces of a high 
 order of merit; XVII., Early Italian School, consist- 
 ing of Florentine pictures' of the fourteenth century; 
 XVIII. , Spanish School, containing a few good works 
 by Velasquez and Muriilo. The Central Octagon con- 
 
156 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 tains works by the painters of North Italy and 
 Umbria. 
 
 Near the National Gallery is the Church of St. Mar- 
 tin's-in-the-Fields, with a handsome Grecian portico. 
 
 Continuing from Charing Cross through the Strand 
 (so called from its skirting the river), several theatres 
 are passed, and numerous other play-houses are in the 
 neighborhood north of the Strand. Exeter Hall is 
 also upon the Strand. Somerset House, the principal 
 fagade of which, 780 feet in length, is on the Thames 
 side, rises on the south side of the thoroughfare. This 
 edifice was erected towards the close of the last cen- 
 tury, on the site of a palace begun in 1549 by the Pro- 
 tector Somerset, and is occupied for various public 
 offices, including that of the Registrar- General. Just 
 before reaching the site of Temple Bar, upon the left 
 are the new Law Courts, still in process of erection. 
 Temple Bar marks the limit of the West End. Beyond 
 it Fleet Street enters The City, and leads to Ludgate 
 Hill. Whenever a reigning sovereign has visited The 
 City on state occasions, permission has been obtained 
 from the Lord Mayor to pass Temple Bar. This is an 
 ancient custom. At one time it was the custom to 
 exhibit the heads of criminals on spikes at this place, 
 as a terror to evil-doers. There are several churches 
 in the Strand, at one of which, St. Clement Danes (so 
 called because Harold Harefoot, son of Canute, and 
 other Danes were buried there), Dr. Sam. Johnson 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 157 
 
 worshipped for twenty years. Another celebrated per- 
 sonage, Joe Miller, was buried in the parish burial- 
 ground, now occupied by Kings College Hospital. 
 
 On the south side of Fleet Street is the Temple, 
 formerly a Lodge of the Knights Templar. On the 
 dissolution of the order in 1313, it became crown 
 property, and by Edward II. was presented to Aymer 
 de Valence, Earl of Pembroke. After Pembroke's 
 death it came into the possession of the Knights of St. 
 John, who, in 1346, leased it to the students of Com- 
 mon Law. From that time to the present, the build- 
 ing, or rather group of buildings, has continued to be 
 a School of Law. The Inner Temple, Middle Temple, 
 Lincoln's Inn and Gray's Inn, constitute the four Inns 
 of Court, which are so called from having been 
 anciently held in the "Aula Regia," or Court of the 
 King's Palace. Their government is vested in "Bench- 
 ers," selected from the most successful and distinguished 
 members of the English bar. The Inns of Chancery 
 are supposed to be subsidiary to the four Inns of Court. 
 In the fine Gothic Hall of the Middle Temple, Shakes- 
 peare's " Twelfth Night " was acted in the dramatist's 
 life-time. Within the Inner Temple is the Temple 
 Church (also called St. Mary's), an ancient place of 
 worship, consisting of a Round Church and Choir. In 
 the former are nine monuments of Templars of the 
 twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and in the church- 
 yard, north of the choir, Oliver Goldsmith is buried. 
 
158 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 In the Temple Gardens, which lie back of the Temple 
 and bordering upon the Thames Embankment, accord- 
 ing to Shakespeare, were plucked the white and red 
 roses which were assumed as the distinctive badges of 
 the houses of York and Lancaster, in the long and 
 bloody civil contest, known as the "War of the 
 Roses." 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 159 
 
 CHAPTER IY. 
 
 ENGLAND CONTINUED. 
 
 More about London — St. Paul's and its Sights — The Post-Office 
 — The Tower of London — Its Mournful History and its Won- 
 ders — The Crown Jewels — Fifteen Million Dollars' Worth of 
 Gewgaws — The British Museum and its Vast Collections — The 
 South Kensington Museum — A Magnificent Art-School — The 
 Albert Memorial — The Koyal Albert Hall and an Organ Concert 
 therein — Parks and Palaces — The Thames Embankments — Cle- 
 opatra's Needle — Sights on the Thames — The Docks and the 
 Shipping — The Bank of England and the Royal Exchange — 
 Band of Hope Fete at the Crystal Palace — Singing by Ten 
 Thousand Children — A Glimpse of Royalty — Spurgeon and his 
 Work, &c. 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral is the crowning glory of 
 London, architecturally speaking. The noble edifice, 
 the third largest church structure in Christendom, 
 St. Peter's at Eome and the Milan Cathedral being 
 its only superiors in size, stands upon a hill, and the 
 great dome raises its graceful proportions high above 
 the surrounding buildings. Nevertheless, no really 
 good view of St. Paul's is had in the near vicinity, or 
 account of the neighboring structures. The bestvie^ 
 is had from the river, or from Blackfriars Bridge. 
 The present edifice was erected after the destruction 
 of old St. Paul's in the great fire of 1666, from 
 
160 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 designs by Sir Christopher Wren. It was begun in 
 1675, opened for worship in 1697, and completed, so 
 far as the design was concerned, in 1710, although the 
 decorations w T ere not finished until thirteen years later, 
 or forty-eight years after the first stone was laid. 
 The church covers between two and three acres, and 
 cost nearly £750,000, the money being raised for the 
 most part by a tax on coals. Its entire length, from 
 east to west, is five hundred feet ; its breadth, at the 
 western entrance, one hundred and eighty feet, and at 
 the transept, two hundred and fifty feet ; length of 
 the choir, one hundred and sixty-five feet. The 
 general height of the walls is about ninetv feet, and 
 the entire circumference of the building is two 
 thousand two hundred and ninety-two feet. The 
 height to the top of the cross is three hundred and 
 fifty-two feet from the floor of the church, or three 
 hundred and sixty feet from the pavement of the 
 street. Some of the guide-books give the height as 
 four hundred and four feet. The two western towers 
 are two hundred and twenty-two feet high. The ex- 
 terior of the diameter of the dome is one hundred and 
 eighty feet. The old cathedral was a building of vast 
 proportions, though of somewhat different shape. Its 
 extreme length was six hundred and ninety feet, and 
 it had a wooden spire five hundred and twenty feet 
 high. Old St. Paul's, as this last mentioned structure 
 is now termed, was, by no means, the oldest St. Paul's. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 161 
 
 As early as 610; Ethelbert, king of Kent, undertook 
 the building of a church to St. Paul, and there is 
 some reason to believe that a pagan temple once 
 existed on the same site. 
 
 Dr. Tourjee, and all who chose to accompany him 
 to St. Paul's, had the distinguished honor of being 
 shown over the historic edifice by Canon Gregory, 
 who very courteously extended every facility for a 
 thorough inspection of its many interesting features. 
 Many of our party also attended divine service there 
 on the Sabbath of our stay in London. The interior 
 of the church is imposing, mainly on account of its 
 vastness. The decorations are meagre, a,nd the light 
 is not sufficient to make the paintings in the dome dis- 
 tinct. These paintings are eight in number, repre- 
 senting some of the chief events in the life of St. 
 Paul, and were executed by Sir James Thornhill. 
 The architect is not at fault for the defect of insuffi- 
 cient light, inasmuch as his design was adopted only 
 in part. His plan contemplated, in addition to a large 
 central dome, eight smaller cupolas, with a fine portico. 
 The dome and the eight supporting arches of this 
 design only were carried out, and Sir Christopher is 
 said to have wept when he was compelled to adopt the 
 long nave and side aisles of a Eoman Catholic Cathe- 
 dral. The architect's original model is kept in the 
 church, but is not now exposed to public view as it was 
 formerly. St. Paul's, like Westminster Abbey, is 
 
162 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the resting-place of many distinguished dead, chiefly 
 military or naval heroes. Among the former are the 
 Duke of Wellington ; Lieut. General Sir Ralph Ab- 
 ercromby ; Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, who was 
 killed, in 1812, while resisting an attack on Queens- 
 town, Canada, where an elaborate monument has been 
 placed in his honor ; Sir Andrew Hay, who fell at 
 Bayonne in 1814; Lieut. General John Moore, who 
 was slain at Corunna ; Major-General Daniel Hoghton, 
 who fell at Albuera in 1811 ; Generals Sir Edward 
 Pakenham and Samuel Gibbs, both of whom lost 
 their lives at the Battle of New Orleans ; Sir William 
 Ponsonby, and Sir Thomas Picton, who fell while 
 fighting gallantly at Waterloo ; Major-General Ross, 
 who led the attack on Washington in 1814, and after- 
 wards fell in the engagement near Baltimore ; and the 
 Marquis Cornwallis, who at the time of his death was 
 Governor of Bengal. There is also a monument to 
 the officers of the Coldstream Guards, who fell in the 
 Crimean War. Among the distinguished sailors who 
 lie buried here, are Lord Nelson, Lord Duncan, 
 Admiral Lord Howe, Admiral Lord Rodney, Ad- 
 miral Napier, and Lord Collingwood. Among the 
 other eminent men entombed in St. Paul's, are Dr. 
 Samuel Johnson, the lexicographer; Henry Hallam, 
 the historian; John Howard, the philanthropist; 
 Bishop Reginald Heber; Bishop Thomas Fanshaw 
 Middleton, the first Protestant Bishop in India ; the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 163 
 
 late Dean Milman, of St. Paul's ; Sir Christopher 
 Wren ; Lord Lyons, and the following group of dis- 
 tinguished painters : Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir Thomas 
 Lawrence, Benjamin West, John Opie, James Barry, 
 Sir Edwin Landseer, and Joseph Mallord William 
 Turner. The Wellington monument is quite impos- 
 ing, although much of its effect is lost on account of 
 the smallness of the chapel in which it is placed. The 
 Nelson group, and numerous other monuments, are 
 also elaborate, but in not a few instances, exceedingly 
 bad taste is displayed, while in very few is a high 
 order of art exhibited. The sarcophagus of Nelson 
 is in the crypt in the centre of a circle of pillars, 
 directly below the dome. This sarcophagus was pre- 
 pared by Cardinal Wolsey for his own burial, but his 
 death in disgrace prevented its being used for that 
 purpose. Nelson's coffin was made of part of the 
 wood of the ship L'Orient, which was engaged in the 
 Battle of the Nile. The sarcophagus of Wellington, 
 and the hearse used at the funeral of the "Iron Duke," 
 are also in the crypt. 
 
 To thoroughly inspect St. Paul's under ordinary 
 circumstances — that is, when the visitor has not such 
 distinguished guidance and companionship as Dr. 
 Tourjee and those who were with him could boast — 
 requires the expenditure of a considerable amount in 
 fees. A descent to the Crypt and Vaults costs six- 
 pence ; a visit to the Library, Geometrical Staircase, 
 
164 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and large bell, another sixpence ; to the Clock, two- 
 pence ; the Whispering Gallery and the two external 
 galleries (Stone' Gallery and Golden Gallery), another 
 sixpence ; and an ascent to the Ball, the steepest 
 charge of all, one shilling and sixpence ; making 
 altogether the sum of three shillings and sixpence. 
 Every visitor should ascend to the Whispering Gal- 
 lery, and to, at least, the lower of the external gal- 
 leries. Beyond these galleries only good climbers 
 should venture, as the stairways are steep, and the 
 latter part of the ascent is almost dangerous. Ladders 
 take the place of staircases, and to mount into the hol- 
 low metallic ball (which is six feet and two inches in 
 diameter) , one must clamber up the projecting supports 
 eight or ten feet without aid of either stair or ladder. 
 From within the ball nothing is to be seen, but from 
 just below magnificent glimpses of the outer world are 
 had ; but they are not enough better than the view 
 from the Stone or Golden Gallery to repay the addi- 
 tional ascent. From either height a glorious pano- 
 ramic view of London is had; and if the atmosphere 
 is not very smoky (as it is almost sure to be after the 
 morning hours) the prospect is very extended. There 
 is no better point from which to realize the real great- 
 ness of London. The mingled sounds of its busy 
 streets, from the great watery highway which flows 
 almost beneath the beholder, and from the railways 
 which send out their clattering iron horses across the 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 165 
 
 river and in all directions, float up to the ear as they 
 do to a balloon traveller. The Stone Gallery is two 
 hundred and twenty- three feet above the pavement, 
 and encircles the base of the dome. The outer 
 Golden Gallery, so called on account of the gilt rail- 
 ings, surrounds the foot of the lantern. There are, 
 in fact, three domes. The roof of the inner one is 
 seen from within the church. Above this 'is a brick 
 dome, which supports the lantern, and outside of both 
 is a wooden structure, which is the dome seen from 
 without. The lantern, like the church itself, is com- 
 posed of Portland stone, and is said to weigh seven 
 hundred tons. The ball which surmounts it weighs 
 iive thousand six hundred pounds ; and the cross, 
 which lifts itself fifteen feet higher than the ball, 
 weighs three thousand three hundred pounds more. 
 The Whispering Gallery is upon the inside of the 
 dome, at its base. It is one hundred and forty yards 
 in circumference, and yet a whisper may be heard from 
 one side to the other. This is the best place from 
 which to view the paintings on the ceiling of the 
 dome, and the visitor may look over an iron railing 
 into the choir below. Should he ascend to the lan- 
 tern he may halt part way up and look through a little 
 aperture at the very apex of the inner dome, some three 
 hundred feet to the floor of the church. There have 
 been several cases of suicide, where persons have 
 thrown themselves from the Whispering Gallery to 
 
166 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the pavement. About half-way up to the Whispering 
 Gallery, in the southern gallery, is the Library, 
 founded by Bishop Compton (Bishop of London 
 during the whole period of the building of S. Paul's). 
 The Library is quite elaborately finished, the floor 
 consisting of two thousand three hundred and seventy- 
 six pieces of oak inlaid without nails or pegs ; and it 
 forms a marked contrast to the galleries just without. 
 The Library contains about nine thousand volumes. 
 The Geometrical Staircase, consisting of ninety 
 steps, was a novelty in its day, but similar con- 
 structions are common at the present time. There 
 are supports at only one end of the steps, and the 
 whole seems to hang together by resting upon the 
 lower step. These stairs were intended as a private 
 way to the Library. The bells and clock — the tow- 
 ers have recently been supplied with some new bells 
 — will hardly repay inspection when there are so 
 many interesting things to see. In May and June 
 two great festivals take place at St. Paul's. The first 
 of these is for the benefit of the sons' of deceased 
 clergymen, and the other is in aid of the Charity 
 Schools of the metropolis. On the latter occasion, 
 there is singing by about ten thousand children. The 
 church contains a magnificent organ, originally built 
 by Bernard Schmidt, about the year 1694, but since 
 wholly reconstructed. The organist is the talented 
 Dr. Stabler, who succeeded Sir John Goss. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 167 
 
 The surroundings of St. Paul's are full of historic 
 interest. St. Paul's Churchyard is the thoroughfare 
 surrounding the church. Between the churchyard 
 and Newgate Street, on the north, is Paternoster 
 Row, so called from the number of prayer books sold 
 there. It is now, as it has been for centuries, the 
 centre of the book-trade. In front of the western or 
 main entrance to St. Paul's is a statue of Queen Anne, 
 by Francis Bird. In Newgate Street are Christ's 
 Hospital and Newgate Prison, and the Old Bailey 
 (the Central Criminal Court) adjoins the latter. At 
 the head of Newgate Street, in St. Martin's-le-Grancl, 
 are the General Post-Office and General Telegraph 
 Office, both establishments of great extent and vast 
 resources. The number of letters delivered annually 
 within the London district, which comprises a radius 
 of twelve miles from the chief office, reaches many 
 millions, and the number of receiving posts or street 
 letter-boxes is nearly ten thousand. No house in 
 London is more than one-eighth of a mile from a 
 letter-box, or more than a quarter of a mile from a 
 money-order office. 
 
 Of all the sights of London, the Tower is histori- 
 cally the most interesting. It stands just without the 
 eastern limit of the old city, and upon the banks of 
 the Thames. It was originally a feudal fortress and 
 palace, then a state prison, and is now a Government 
 store-house and armory. Tradition assigns to Julius 
 
168 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Cresar the distinction of having first built the Tower, 
 and that the Eomans had a fortress here is more 
 than probable, but the present buildings date back 
 only to the time of William the Conqueror. There 
 are nearer twenty towers than a. single tower, as the 
 title of the place would seem to imply, and between 
 twelve and thirteen acres are enclosed by the walls 
 and moat. This latter is no longer applied to its 
 ancient use, but has been drained and is devoted to 
 gardens and parade-grounds. There is a central 
 keep, or citadel, called the White Tower. Middle, or 
 Martin, and By ward Towers defend the south-west 
 angle of the moat, and the Cradle and St. Thomas 
 Towers are also in the outer series of fortifications. 
 The inner series are more numerous, and include the 
 Bloody, Becord or Wakefield, Bell, Jewel, Bowyer, 
 Devereux, and Bcauchamp Towers, with others that 
 the casual visitor will have little reason to remem- 
 ber. There are guide-books giving all needed partic- 
 ulars of the various parts of the Tower, but it is of 
 little use to attempt to follow them during the brief 
 time allotted by the warder to an inspection of the 
 place. 
 
 Entering by the Lion Gate from Great Tower Hill, 
 which is on the west, the visitor is first brought to the 
 ticket-office. Unless it be a public, or "free" day 
 (Monday or Saturday), which is especially to be 
 avoided by every one who values personal comfort 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 169 
 
 above a shilling, he here purchases two tickets — one 
 admitting to the Armory and White Tower, and the 
 other to view the crown jewels — for a sixpence each. 
 Parties of from a dozen to a score are then taken in 
 charge by one of the warders, or "beef-eaters," as 
 they are popularly called, this latter title having been 
 corrupted from buffetiers, attendants at the royal table, 
 or buffet. These officials, mostly old soldiers, are 
 properly termed Yeomen of the Guard, and they con- 
 tinue to wear the uniform or livery prescribed for that 
 body as long ago as the time of Henry VII. — at the 
 close of the fifteenth century. Very quaint and pic- 
 turesque is the appearance of the " beef-eater," who 
 escorts you through these gloomy gateways and 
 towers. He wears a belted yeoman's-coat, and em- 
 broidered upon the breast are the rose, the thistle, 
 and the shamrock, surmounted by the regal crown, 
 and with the ribbon of the Garter below. A high ruff 
 encircles his neck, and a peculiar low, bell-crowned 
 hat, one of the most old-fashioned features of the 
 whole dress, surmounts his head. Knee-breeches 
 and shoes with enormous rosettes complete the ancient 
 livery. In his right hand he carries a truncheon, or 
 mace, terminating in a lance, or bayonet, and he also 
 wears a sword. 
 
 A stone bridge, flanked by two towers (the Middle 
 and By ward) , leads across the moat, which can still be 
 flooded by the garrison in case of need. On the left 
 
170 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 is the Bell Tower, so called because it formerly con- 
 tained the alarm-bell of the garrison. In this tower 
 Queen Elizabeth is said to haye been imprisoned. 
 Farther on, to the right, is the Traitor's Gate, leading 
 up from the Thames : 
 
 " That gate misnamed, through which before, 
 Went Sidney, Russell, Ealeigh, Cranmer, More." 
 
 — Rogers's Human Life. 
 
 This gate is under the St. Thomas Tower, a large 
 square building, constructed over the moat, with a 
 round tower on either side. On the opposite side is 
 a gateway under the Bloody Tower, which leads to 
 the Inner Bail or Court. In the centre of this inner 
 enclosure stands the White Tower, a large, square, 
 stone edifice with' a high square tower at each corner. 
 On the north side of the enclosure are the Wellington 
 Barracks, a spacious modern edifice, and in close 
 proximity to it, in the north-west corner, is the old 
 chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, which was restored a 
 few years ago. Nearly, if not quite all the line of 
 inner towers, twelve in number, were formerly prison 
 lodgings. Within the Bloody Tower, the young 
 princes, Edward V. and the Duke of York, were 
 murdered by order of their wicked uncle, Richard, 
 Duke of Gloucester, in 1483 ; and in the neighboring 
 Record, or Wakefield Tower, now the depository of the 
 jewels and regalia of the crown, Henry VI. is said to 
 have been murdered by the same cruel tyrant. In the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 171 
 
 Bowyer Tower (so called because it was once the resi- 
 dence of the master, Provider of the King's Bows), 
 the Duke of Clarence, brother of Edward IV., is sup- 
 posed to have been drowned in a butt of Malmsey 
 wiue, in 1471. Lady Jane Grey is said to have been 
 imprisoned in the Brick Tower, while Lord Guildford 
 Dudley, her husband, with his father and brothers, 
 were confined in the Beauchamp Tower, where many 
 other famous prisoners have also lodged. The walls 
 of this last-named tower bear a great number of in- 
 scriptions, carved in the stone by the unhappy prison- 
 ers. The armorial devices of several noble houses 
 may still be seen, although the prisoners who executed 
 them knelt before the headsman centuries a<2fo. The 
 name of "iaxe," cut, as it is supposed, by Lord 
 Guildford Dudley, in token of love for his unfortunate 
 wife, may also be seen. In front of the Beauchamp 
 Tower stood the execution block. A laree number of 
 executions, however, were performed outside the 
 walls, on Tower Hill. The Devereux Tower, at the 
 north-west angle of the wall, was where Kobert 
 Devereux, the Earl of Essex, and favorite of Queen 
 Elizabeth, was confined. Secret passages led from 
 this tower to the vaults of St. Peter's Chapel and to 
 the Beauchamp Tower. 
 
 Among the eminent persons interred in the little 
 chapel are the following : Sir Thomas More, beheaded 
 in 1535 ; Queen Anne Boleyn, beheaded in 1536; 
 
172 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, beheaded in 1540 ; 
 Margaret Pole, Countess of Salisbury, beheaded in 
 1541 ; Queen Catherine Howard, beheaded in 1542 ; 
 Lord Admiral Seymour of Sudeley, beheaded in 
 1552 ; John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Duke of 
 Northumberland, beheaded in 1553 ; Lady Jane Grey 
 and her husband, beheaded in 1554 ; Robert Dever- 
 eaux, Earl of Essex, beheaded in 1601 ; Sir Thomab 
 Overbuiy, poisoned in the Tower in 1613 ; Sir John 
 Eliot died as a prisoner in the Tower in 1632 ; 
 James Fitzroy, Duke of Monmouth, beheaded in 
 1685 ; and Simon, Lord Fraser of Lovat, beheaded in 
 1747, the last victim of the block in England. Of 
 these, Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard, Lady Jane 
 Grey and Devereux, Earl of Essex, only, were 
 executed within the Tower walls. 
 
 Macaulay, in referring to this chapel, says : "In 
 truth there is no sadder spot on earth than this little* 
 cemetery; death is there associated, not as in West- 
 minster Abbey and St. Paul's, with genius and virtue, 
 with public veneration and with imperishable renown ; 
 not, as in our humblest churches and churchyards, 
 with everything that is most endearing in social and 
 domestic charities, but with whatever is darkest in 
 human nature and in human destiny, with the savage 
 triumph of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, 
 the ingratitude, the cowardice of friends, with all 
 the miseries of fallen greatness and of blighted fame." 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 173 
 
 Among the many other prisoners confined in the 
 Tower, at different times, were the following : Flam- 
 bard, Bishop of Durham, incarcerated by Henry I., 
 in 1100, and the first state prisoner of whom there is 
 any record ; John Baliol, king of Scotland, 1296 ; 
 William Wallace, the Scottish patriot, 1305 ; David 
 Bruce, king of Scotland, 1347 ; King John of France, 
 1357 ; Prince James of Scotland, 1405 ; Duke of 
 Orleans, father of Louis XII. of France, 1415 ; 
 Lord Cobham, burned as a heretic at St. Giles's-in- 
 the-Field, 1416; King Henry VI., supposed to have 
 been murdered by the Duke of Gloucester, 1471 ; 
 Anne Askew, tortured in the Tower and burned in 
 Smithfield as a heretic, in 1546 ; Archbishop Cran- 
 mer, 1553 ; Sir Thomas Wyatt, beheaded on Tower 
 Hill in 1554 ; Earl of Southampton, Shakespeare's 
 patron, 1562; Sir Walter Raleigh, thrice imprisoned 
 in the Tower, and finally beheaded at Westminster in 
 1618 ; Earl of Strafford, beheaded in 1641 ; Viscount 
 Stafford, beheaded in 1680 ; Lord William Russell, 
 beheaded in 1683 ; Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, 1688 ; 
 the Seven Bishops, 1688 ; Duke of Marlborough, 
 1692; Sir Robert Walpole, 1712; John Wilkes, 
 1762; Lord George Gordon, 1780, &c. The last 
 prisoners sent to the Tower were Arthur Thistlewood 
 and his associates, who were brought here in 1820 for 
 complicity in what was known as the " Cato Street 
 conspiracy." 
 
174 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 But we are getting over much more ground than 
 our worthy guide, the "beef-eater," is likely to lead 
 us. In fact, we have made a wide divergence ; for 
 after passing under the Bloody Tower, we are con- 
 ducted at once to the armories and the White Tower. 
 The Council Chamber (where the abdication of Rich- 
 ard II. in favor of Henry of Bolingbroke took place 
 in 1399), the Banqueting Hall, and other rooms, con- 
 tain large stores of small-arms arranged in various 
 fanciful designs. The "Prince of Wales's wedding- 
 cake" is reproduced in daggers and various small- 
 arms. On the walls are passion-flowers wrought of 
 glittering steel. Some sixty thousand stand of rifles 
 are usually stored in this remarkable arsenal. We 
 first enter the Horse Armory, a modern building 
 erected outside the White Tower. The middle por- 
 tion of the room is occupied by a collection of figures, 
 on horseback and on foot, in complete suits of armor, 
 chronologically arranged, dating from the reign of 
 Edward I. (1272), to that of James II. (1685). 
 There is also a large collection of arms and armor 
 from other parts of the world. There are two effigies 
 of Henry VIII. in armor, one suit of which is said to 
 have been presented to that monarch on his marriage 
 with Catharine of Aragon. The next apartment, the 
 new armory, opened in 1851, contains various tro- 
 phies, and a large collection of Oriental armor. Next 
 entering the White Tower itself, we come to Queen 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 175 
 
 Elizabeth's Armory, a small apartment on the first 
 floor. At the upper end is an equestrian figure of 
 Queen Elizabeth, and beside her is a page in the cos- 
 tume of her reign. One sees here, also, a varied and 
 blood-curdling collection of instruments of torture, 
 such as the Iron Collar of Torment, the "Bilboes," 
 the "Thimibikin" or "Thumbscrew," and the "Scav- 
 enger's Daughter," nn infernal instrument, not inaptly 
 termed " The Devil's Master-piece," for confining the 
 whole body. The old block of execution, unused 
 since Lord Lovat lost his head on Tower Hill in 1747, 
 occupies a prominent place, and beside it is the fatal 
 axe. The room also contains a great number of ancient 
 military weapons, some of which are very curious. On 
 the north side of this apartment is a low doorway lead- 
 ins: to a dark cell in which Sir Walter Raleigh was con- 
 fined for a period of twelve years. This room is only 
 ten feet long by eight feet wide. It was here he is 
 said to have written his "History of the World." 
 During his confinement here his wife for much of the 
 time lodged in a house on Tower Hill, but one of her 
 sons was born within the Tower. Leaving Queen 
 Elizabeth's Armory, we are conducted to the chapel 
 of St. John, by a winding stairway, at the foot of 
 which the bones of the murdered princes, now en- 
 tombed at Westminster Abbey, were found. The 
 chapel, with its massive pillars and cubical capitals, 
 its wide triforium, its apse borne by stilted round 
 
176 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 arches, and its barrel- vaulted ceiling, is one of the 
 finest and best preserved specimens of Norman archi- 
 tecture in England. A large room adjoining the 
 chapel is said to have been the scene of the arrest of 
 Lord Hastings, when Richard, Duke of Gloucester, 
 burst in upon the assembled councillors. 
 
 Leaving the White Tower, the visitor is shown the 
 place of execution and the Bealichamp Tower, of 
 which mention has been made ; and lastly, he is taken 
 to the Jewel House, a small circular room in the 
 Wakefield Tower, with a cell adjoining it, now occu- 
 pied by the attendant in charge, but probably once a 
 prison. It is a suggestive place. The very stones of 
 this gloomy old pile bear witness to the terrible cost 
 of human blood at which these baubles were main- 
 tained in ages past. On passing up a flight of steps 
 and through a narrow passage, we find ourselves fac- 
 ing a blaze of jewelry, enclosed in a glass case, with 
 an outer cage of strong iron bars. The Imperial State 
 Crown of Her Majesty Queen Victoria is a gorgeous 
 piece of work, which is said to represent a money 
 value of £111,900. The cap is of crimson velvet, 
 with ermine border, and is lined with white silk. It 
 is enclosed in bands of silver, and surmounted by a 
 ball and cross, all resplendent with diamonds and 
 other precious stones, among which are the " inesti- 
 mable sapphire" purchased by King George the Fourth, 
 and the heart-shaped ruby worn in the helmet of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 177 
 
 Henry V. at the Battle of Agincourt. The erown 
 contains no less than two thousand seven hundred and 
 eighty-three diamonds. There are several other 
 crowns exhibited, including the golden crown of 
 Edward the Confessor, set with diamonds, rubies, 
 emeralds, pearls, and sapphires ; the Prince of Wales's 
 crown, of gold, without precious stones ; and the 
 Queen Consort's crown, of gold, set with precious 
 stones. Among the other articles in this marvellous 
 collection are St. Edward's staff (an immense stick of 
 gold, weighing about ninety pounds, and said to con- 
 tain within its rounded top a portion of the true 
 cross) ; the Queen's diadem (made for Mary d'Este, 
 consort of James II. ) ; the Royal sceptres of the Cross 
 and the Dove ; the Queen's sceptre ; Queen Mary's 
 sceptre ; the Queen's orb, of gold and precious stones ; 
 the swords of justice and mercy ; the coronation brace- 
 lets ; the ampul ia (a golden vessel for containing the 
 "holy oil" used at coronations) ; the anointing spoon 
 (supposed to be the sole relic of the ancient regalia) ; 
 the salt-cellar of state (a curious golden model of the 
 White Tower) ; the twelve golden salt-cellars (like 
 the preceding used only on the occasion of a corona- 
 tion upon the banqueting table of the sovereign; ; 
 the silver wine-fountain presented to Charles II. by 
 the corporation of Plymouth ; the silver baptismal 
 font used at christenings of the royal family, &c. 
 The entire value of the jewels and regalia is said to 
 be over £3,000,000. 
 
178 A SUMMER JAUiST 
 
 On leaving the Tower one shudders anew at the 
 place of execution on Tower Hill, to which so many 
 victims have been led from within these cruel old 
 walls. On the east side of Tower Hill stands the 
 Royal Mint; on the north, Trinity House, an ancient 
 institution for 'the promotion and encouragement of 
 English navigation, and having certain rights in gov- 
 erning the maritime affairs of the nation ; and on the 
 south side is the tunnel under the Thames (con- 
 structed in 1870, and now used by pedestrians only), 
 known as the Tower Subway. The older tunnel, now 
 used by the East London Railway Company, lies in 
 that quarter of the metropolis called Wapping. Wil- 
 liam Penn was born on the east side of Tower Hill, 
 within a court adjoining London Wall ; and at a public- 
 house near at hand, whither he had withdrawn to 
 avoid his creditors, died Otway the poet. 
 
 The British Museum is a vast subject in itself to 
 treat upon, and a volume would be needed to ade- 
 quately describe only its main features. The whole 
 world and every age of man has contributed to its 
 vast collections. The. buildings are situated in Great 
 Russell Street, Bloomsbury, and cover some seven 
 acres, the principal facade having a width of three 
 hundred and seventy feet. The museum had its ori- 
 gin in a private collection, made by Sir Hans Sloane, 
 of objects of natural history and art, with an exten- 
 sive library of books and manuscripts, said to have 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 179 
 
 cost their owner £50,000. This was given to the 
 government under certain conditions, upon his death, 
 which occurred in 1753, and with the constant accu- 
 mulations of books and objects of art and antiquity, 
 was long exhibited in Montague House. 
 
 The presentation, by George III. , of a collection of 
 Egyptian antiquities, in 1801, and the purchase of the 
 Townley marbles in 1805, and the Elgin marbles in 
 1816, so increased the museum that a new wing was 
 built; and when George IV. presented to it, in 1823, 
 the King's Library, collected by George III., old 
 Montague House was felt to be too small, and the 
 present edifice (finished in 1847) was then built. 
 The buildings were designed by Sir Robert Smirke, 
 and many additions have been made to the original 
 plan. The collections are again overrunning the 
 accommodations, and many paintings have been re- 
 moved, or are soon to be removed, to the National 
 Gallery, while South Kensington is to be enriched by 
 a removal of the splendid natural history collections. 
 The library is of vast extent. The number of printed 
 volumes is about a million, and there are vast collec- 
 tions of manuscripts. The contents of the museum 
 are at present arranged in twelve sections, each under 
 the special superintendence of an under librarian, or 
 keeper. These sections are as follows : — Printed 
 Books, Manuscripts, Prints and Drawings, Maps and 
 Plans, Oriental Antiquities, British and Mediaeval 
 
180 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Antiquities and Ethnography, Greek and Roman 
 Antiquities, Coins and Medals, Botany, Zoology, and 
 Mineralogy. 
 
 The central quadrangle has been filled by the mag- 
 nificent Reading-Room, which is not open to mere 
 sight-seers. A large number of rooms, however, may 
 be visited. The Greek and Roman antiquities com- 
 prise the finest series in existence, and in every other 
 department there is also great completeness. In the 
 Roman Gallery are Roman antiquities discovered in 
 Great Britain. In the GraBco-Roman Rooms are the 
 celebrated "Townley Venus," from Ostia, the "Town- 
 ley Dione," "Clytie," &c. The Lycian Room contains 
 a series of monuments from the ancient cities of Lycia, 
 in Asia Minor, brought to England by Sir Charles 
 Fellowes. The Mausoleum Room contains the remains 
 of the celebrated mausoleum from Halicarnassus, dedi- 
 cated by Artemisia (about 352 b. c.) to the memory 
 of her husband, Mausolos of Caria, one of the most 
 magnificent monuments of the kind ever erected. The 
 Elgin Room contains the most valuable collection in 
 the world of specimens of Greek art at its best period. 
 It was brought to England by the Earl of Elgin, and 
 purchased from him by Parliament in 1816, for the 
 sum of £35,000. The specimens consist principally 
 of sculptures from the Temple of the Parthenon, the 
 Erechtheum, and the Temple of the Wingless Victory, 
 all on the Acropolis of Athens. The Parthenon was 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOKLD. 181 
 
 built about 440 b. c, and all the sculptural decora- 
 tions were by Phidias. In the Hellenic Eoom are 
 numerous Grecian antiquities of various dates. The 
 Assyrian Galleries contain the collections of sculp- 
 tures excavated by Mr. Layard, Mr. Eassam, and 
 Mr. Loftus. The Kouyunjik Gallery, the ]Nimroud 
 Central Saloon, the Nimroud Gallery, and several 
 other rooms, are filled with the fruits of Mr. Layard's 
 extensive explorations in the East. The Egyptian 
 Galleries contain collections from Memphis, Thebes, 
 Alexandria, and Cairo, which vary in date from 2000 
 to 640 b. c. Then comes the Glass Collection, the 
 Yase Rooms, the .Bronze Rooms and the Gold Orna- 
 ment Room, the latter of Avhich contains the famous 
 Portland Vase, found near Rome. The British and 
 Mediaeval Room is devoted chiefly to antiquities found 
 in Great Britain and Ireland, and the Ethnographical 
 Room contains an extensive collection of antiquities 
 and modern objects illustrative of the African, Asiatic, 
 American, and Australasian races. The Natural His- 
 tory collections are extensive and fill numerous 
 rooms. The Grenville Room contains a collection 
 of 20,240 volumes bequeathed by Right Honorable 
 Thomas Grenville, and containing some valuable 
 specimens of books printed from carved blocks of 
 wood. The Manuscript Room contains a great num- 
 ber of valuable and interesting manuscripts, auto- 
 graphs, &c. In one case may be seen the autographs 
 
182 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 of the English sovereigns, as far back as Edward 
 IV., and of many celebrated foreign monarchs ; 
 in another, the autographs of the world's famous 
 artists, writers, warriors, and philosophers ; and in still 
 another, the will of Mary Queen of Scots, a book of 
 prayers copied out by Queen Elizabeth, and some texts 
 of Scripture in the handwriting of Edward VI. The 
 original Magna Charta, given by King John in 1215, 
 and royal documents of still older date (including 
 some a thousand years old), may also be seen. There 
 are also manuscripts of Milton, Pope, Burns, Scott, 
 Dickens, Torquato Tasso, and many others. Adjoin- 
 ing the Manuscript Room is the King's Library, con- 
 taining 80,000 volumes. In this collection are some 
 of the earliest printed books in German, English, 
 Italian, and French, including issues from the presses 
 of Gutenberg, Faust, SchofFer and Caxton. The first 
 printed Bible, printed by Gutenberg and Faust at 
 Maycnce, in 1455, may here be seen. There are in 
 the museum no less than 1,700 different editions of the 
 Bible. The Print Room contains a fine collection of 
 original drawings and engravings, but is not open to 
 sight-seers. Its treasures may be availed of, however, 
 with but little trouble, by persons engaged in artistic 
 pursuits or studies. 
 
 Another institution in the examination of which 
 days and weeks might profitably be spent, is the 
 South Kensington Museum, situated in that part of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 183 
 
 the metropolis called Brompton, and but a little dis- 
 tance from Hyde Park. It -is best reached by the 
 Metropolitan Railway, a station of which is within 
 four minutes' walk. This collection was originated 
 by the late Prince Consort, and was established with 
 the aid of the profits of the Great Exhibition of 1851. 
 Its object is the promotion of art and science, by 
 means of the systematic training of teachers, the 
 foundation of schools of art, public examinations and 
 distributions of prizes, the purchase and exhibition of 
 objects of art, and the establishment of art libraries. 
 It is carried on at an annual expense of about £300,- 
 000, which is defrayed by the government. There 
 are schools of art in all the principal towns of the 
 kingdom, which are connected with the parent institu- 
 tion, and at Bcthnal Green, five miles east of Charing 
 Cross, is a branch museum, established in 1872, for 
 the benefit of the great industrial population of the 
 East End. The South Kensington collection includes 
 paintings, sculpture, goldsmiths' work, jewels and 
 enamels, porcelain, pottery, terra-cotta, glass, metal 
 work, mosaics and marquetry, carved ivories, musical 
 instruments, furniture, textile or woven fabrics, 
 leather work, &c. It is useless in the present con- 
 nection to attempt a description of the numerous and 
 extensive courts and galleries, or of any of the won- 
 ders contained therein. Every department is arranged 
 with intelligence and taste, and there are the amplest 
 
184 A SUMMER JAUKT 
 
 facilities for study as well as observation. This great 
 museum is open free three days in the week, and dur- 
 ing the remainder of the week (called students' days) 
 the public can gain admission — and relief from the 
 crowds — by the payment of a sixpence. Tickets of 
 admission to the museum, including admission to the 
 Art Library and Educational Reading-Room, and also 
 to the Branch Museum at Bethnal Green, are issued 
 at only sixpence a week, three shillings a quarter, or 
 ten shillings a year. Many valuable gifts and bequests 
 have been made to the institution, including the 
 Sheepshanks collection of paintings, the Ellison col- 
 lection of water-colors, the Dyce collection of paint- 
 ings, drawings, engravings, and books, and the Forster 
 collection of paintings, drawings, books, and manu- 
 scripts (including the originals of some of Dickens's 
 works). The exhibition includes also various loan 
 collections which are, of course, liable to be changed 
 from time to time. During 1878 two fine collections, 
 loaned by Earl Spencer and W. Fuller Maitland, Esq., 
 M. P., were to be seen. Among the pictures are 
 celebrated works by Copley, Hogarth, Landseer, 
 Leslie, Turner, and other British artists, and a few 
 noteworthy foreign paintings, including the famous 
 Raphael cartoons, seven in number, formerly exhibited 
 at Hampton Court, and sent here by order of the 
 Queen. These cartoons are drawn in crayon, on 
 strong paper, and colored in distemper, and they are 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 185 
 
 ranked among the finest works of the great painter. 
 The subjects are scriptural, and they were executed 
 in 1515 and 1516, by order of Pope Leo X., as copies 
 for tapestry. There were originally ten cartoons, but 
 three have been lost. Dr. Schliemann's collection of 
 antiquities from Troy, forms an interesting part of the 
 exhibition, and like everything else, is admirably 
 arranged. 
 
 Near the South Kensington Museum is the Museum 
 of Patents, which contains among other interesting 
 objects, models of some of the earliest railway, marine, 
 and stationary engines ever constructed. The National 
 Portrait Gallery, and the East India Museum, are 
 also upon the opposite side of Exhibition Eoad, where 
 there are also entrances to the Royal Horticultural 
 Gardens. 
 
 On the Hyde Park side of the Horticultural Gar- 
 dens, within their enclosure, and with its main en- 
 trance from Kensington Eoad, stands the noble Royal 
 Albert Hall; and opposite, within the boundaries of 
 Hyde Park, or the old boundaries of Kensington Gar- 
 dens, rises the beautiful Albert Memorial. Both were 
 designed by Sir G. Gilbert Scott. The Albert Memo- 
 rial was erected at a total cost, including the sculpture, 
 of £120,000, and consists of a Gothic canopy 175 
 feet high, richly decorated with mosaics by Messrs. 
 Clayton and Bell, and Salviati of Venice, and resting 
 on four clustered pillars of red granite. Beneath the 
 
186 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 canopy is the colossal bronze statue, fifteen feet high, 
 of Prince Albert, by the late John Foley. This shrine 
 rises from a sculptured base, which is adorned with 
 two hundred life-size portrait statues, in high relief, 
 of the greatest men in science, art, and literature the 
 world has produced, by J. P. Philip and H. Armstead. 
 A double quadrangular pyramid of steps of gray Irish 
 granite leads up to the Memorial, at the lower corners 
 of which are four colossal marble groups, viz: "Eu- 
 rope," by MacDowell, "Asia," by Foley, "Africa," by 
 Thecd, and "America," by John Bell. Above them 
 on the platform are smaller symbolic groups of " Agri- 
 culture," by Calder Marshall, "Manufactures," by 
 Weeks, "Commerce," by Thornycroft, and "Engin- 
 eering," by Lawlor. The monument is one of the 
 most beautiful objects of its kind in the world. 
 
 My visit to the Royal Albert Hall was so timed that 
 I listened to an excellent concert on the organ, given 
 by Mr. Thomas Pettit. The Hall is in the form of a 
 vast amphitheatre in the Italian Renaissance style, and 
 will seat about ten thousand people. It cost £200,000, 
 and occupies the site of Gore House, once the resi- 
 dence of William Wilberforce, and afterwards of the 
 celebrated Lady Blessington. The organ, built by 
 Willis, is the largest in the world. It has four banks 
 of keys, and one hundred and thirty stops, of which 
 number about one hundred and fifteen are speaking 
 stops, the pedal manual having no less than four reg- 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WOBLD. 
 
 187 
 
 isters of thirty-two feet pipes. The whole number 
 of pipes is over eight thousand. The cost of the in- 
 strument was less than seven thousand pounds, or a 
 little more than half as much as the great organ in 
 Boston Music Hall. Mr. Pettit, who- is an excellent 
 performer, played the following admirable programme : 
 
 March, " Tannhauser," . 
 Pastorale, " Light of the World," 
 Offertoire in C minor, . 
 
 a, Sketch, > . 
 
 b, Schlummerlied, 5 
 Overture, " Zanetta," . • 
 Eomauza alia Pastorale, 
 Fugue in G major, 
 Marche Funebre, . 
 Lied (Book 5, No. 6), . . 
 Soldiers' Chorus, " Faust," . 
 
 Wagner. 
 Sullivan. 
 Batiste. 
 
 Schumann. 
 
 Auber. 
 Handel. 
 
 Krebs, 
 Chopin. 
 Mendelssohn. 
 Gounod. 
 
 els the recently 
 
 On the west side of Albert Hall stai 
 erected building of the National School of Music. 
 The buildings, which enclose the Horticultural Society's 
 Gardens on three sides, were used from 1871 to 1874 
 for the International Exhibition. The Crystal Palace 
 of 1851 (now standing at Sydenham, where it was 
 enlarged) stood in Hyde Park, a short distance below 
 the Albert Memorial. A large building in rear of the 
 Horticultural Gardens is soon to receive the Natural 
 History collections from the British Museum. 
 
 While at South Kensington, and on the return 
 therefrom, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens may 
 best be seen. The latter lie at the western extremity 
 
188 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 of the park, and comprise two hundred and forty-five 
 acres. On the western side is Kensington Palace, where 
 Queen Victoria was born, and where some members 
 of the royal family still reside. The palace was built 
 in part by William III., and both that monarch and 
 his consort Mary died there, as did also Queen Anne 
 and her husband, Prince George of Denmark, and 
 George II. Opposite the palace, on the south side of 
 Kensington Road, is a magnificent mansion, called 
 Kensington House, recently built, and quite lately 
 sold to Mr. Mackey, the California millionaire. The 
 cost of the house and its site is said to have been over 
 £500,000, and it is not surprising that the original 
 owner was compelled to give the property up to his 
 creditors. Hyde Park is one of the great lungs of 
 London, and at certain hours of the day, while the 
 fashionable season lasts, which is during the months of 
 May, June, and July, its walks and drives present a 
 series of very brilliant scenes. "Rotten Row," which 
 is supposed to be a corruption of Route du Hoi, — a 
 rather significant change surely, — is the place where 
 equestrians disport themselves. The fashionable driv- 
 ing and riding hours in the park are from about twelve 
 to two, and from five to seven. Hyde Park encloses 
 three hundred and eighty-eight acres, and, previous to 
 the time of Henry VIII. , its site belonged to the old 
 manor of Hyde, one of the possessions of Westmin- 
 ster Abbey. The Serpentine is an artificial sheet of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 189 
 
 water of considerable extent, reaching far into both 
 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, and upon its 
 north bank is the drive called the "Ladies' Mile." 
 The Serpentine is a great resort for bathers (before 8 
 o'clock, a. m., and after 8 o'clock, p. m.), and for 
 boating in summer, and for skating in winter. The chief 
 entrances to the park are at its eastern extremity, by 
 the triple arch at Hyde Park Corner, and by the 
 Marble Arch at Cumberland Gate. Near the latter, 
 the Tyburn Gallows formerly stood ; and near the 
 former, is Apsley House, which was occupied by the 
 Duke of Wellington. In the latter neighborhood are, 
 two other noteworthy memorials of the Iron Duke ; 
 viz., an equestrian statue which surmounts the arched 
 entrance to Green Park, and the statue of Achilles, 
 erected in his honor, just within Hyde Park, by the 
 ladies of England. Along the east side of Hyde 
 Park, runs Park Lane, where many fine mansions are 
 situated. 
 
 Green Park (sixty acres) and St. James's Park 
 (fifty-eight acres) lie east of Hyde Park, and thus is 
 a continuous tract of park-country, extending over 
 seven hundred and fifty acres, formed in the midst of 
 busy London. Around these smaller enclosures are 
 the residences of many of the nobility, and on one 
 side of St. James's Park are many of the government 
 offices. Here, too, Royalty resides; for at the top of 
 Constitution Hill, and facing the broad avenue lead- 
 
190 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ing through St. James's Park, rises the stately Buck- 
 ingham Palace, the town residence of Queen Victoria. 
 Near at hand is St. James's Palace, long a royal 
 abiding place, and in the chapel of which Queen 
 Victoria was married; and Marlborough House, built 
 by the first Duke of Marlborough, and now occupied 
 by the Prince of Wales, is near the eastern extremity 
 of St. James's Park. Clarence House, the residence 
 of the Duke of Edinburgh, lies west of St. James's 
 Palace. In the same vicinity is Stafford House, the 
 town residence of the Duke of Sutherland, containing 
 a fine collection of paintings, which, however, are not 
 to be seen except by special permission of the pro- 
 prietor. Entrance to the picture galleries of Bucking- 
 ham Palace may be had on written application to the 
 Lord Chamberlain, during the Queen's absence only. 
 The Royal Mews, or stables, situated near the palace, 
 may also be visited by written permission. Over one 
 hundred horses are kept here, and the magnificent 
 state carriage, built in 1762, at a cost of £7, 6 GO, but 
 now seldom used, is also to be seen. An interesting 
 account of a visit to these stables was written in a let- 
 ter to the Manchester (N. H.) " Daily Mirror," by Mr. 
 Arthur E. Clarke, a member of the Tourjee party. 
 
 Among the other great parks of London are 
 Regent's " Park (406 acres), which contains the 
 Zoological Gardens, the finest collection of its kind 
 in the world, and also the Botanical Gardens; Victo- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 191 
 
 ria Park (223 acres), containing the handsomest 
 public fountain in London, the gift of Miss Burdett- 
 Coutts ; Battersea Park (199 acres) ; and Finsbuiy 
 Park (120 acres). There are many smaller public 
 parks, and most of the squares (said to aggregate 
 over 300 acres) are planted with trees, shrubs, grass, 
 and flowers. These latter enclosures are in many 
 instances accessible only to residents of the vicinity. 
 The assertion has been made that there are only 
 twelve streets in London from which some patch of 
 green is not visible. However this may be, the vis- 
 itor to London is sure to be surprised and delighted 
 by the frequency with which he comes upon little 
 parks and gardens, often in places where they would 
 least be expected. The same love of nature seems to 
 animate all classes to a considerable extent ; and in 
 some quarters of the town every window is a bower 
 of floral beauty. 
 
 Akin to the public parks are the handsome Thames 
 Embankments, which have done so much to beautify 
 the riverside. The Victoria Embankment extends 
 along the north bank of the Thames, from Blackfriars 
 Bridge to Westminster, a distance of over a mile and 
 a quarter. There is a macadamized carriage-way 
 sixty-four feet wide, with a foot pavement sixteen feet 
 broad on the land side, and one twenty feet broad by 
 the river. The wall by the water is eight feet thick. 
 Part of the land reclaimed from the river has been 
 
192 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 laid out in tasteful gardens, and lines of trees are 
 planted its entire length. There are several statues, 
 at different points, and here, too, that remarkable 
 monolith known as Cleopatra's Needle, has at length 
 found a resting-place. Constructed more than three 
 thousand }^ears ago, it was erected as one of six 
 gigantic pillars which stood before the Temple of the 
 Sun at the city of On in ancient Egypt. Centuries 
 ago it fell prostrate, and it remained thus until its 
 recent removal to England. During its transporta- 
 tion from Egypt, in a vessel erected around it, a 
 storm arose, and it had to be abandoned, as it was 
 thought to be foundering. It was recovered, how- 
 ever, and safely towed to London, where it arrived 
 Jan. 20, 1878. At the time of our visit the Needle was 
 lying upon the bank, near Waterloo Bridge, but it has 
 since been raised to an upright position. Within the 
 pedestal was placed a jar containing Bibles in English, 
 French, and Arabic ; a Hebrew Pentateuch, and a 
 verse from the third chapter of St. John, printed in 
 two hundred and fifteen different languages. The 
 inscriptions for the obelisk were prepared by Dr. 
 Birch and Dean Stanley. The principal inscriptions 
 (facing the roadway and the river, respectively) give 
 a succinct account of this remarkable object, and they 
 are as follows : — 
 
 This Obelisk 
 
 Was Quarried at Syene, and erected at On 
 
 (Heliopolis), by Thothmes III., 
 
 About 1500 B. C. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 193 
 
 Further Inscriptions Were Added Two Centuries 
 
 Later by Rameses II. (Sesostris) 
 
 Removed to Alexandria, the Royal City of 
 
 Cleopatra, 
 
 It was Erected There in the Seventh Year of 
 
 Augustus Caesar, B. C. 26. 
 
 Transported to England and Erected on 
 
 This Spot 
 
 In the Forty-Second Year of 
 
 Queen Victoria 
 
 By And 
 
 Erasmus Wilson, F. R. S. John Dixon, C. E. 
 
 This Obelisk 
 
 Having Fallen Prostrate in the Sand at 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 Was, in Grateful Remembrance 
 
 Of Nelson and Abercromby, 
 
 Presented to the British Nation, A. D. 1819, 
 
 By Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt. 
 
 Encased in an Iron Cylinder it was Rolled 
 
 Into the Sea 
 
 August 29, 1877. 
 
 Abandoned in a Storm in the Bay of Biscay, 
 
 It was Recovered and Taken into Ferrol Harbour, 
 
 Whence, in Charge of Captain Carter, 
 
 It Reached the Thames, 
 
 January 20, 1878. 
 
 This is the second instance where a colossal obelisk 
 has been transported from the shores of Africa to 
 another part of the world, the first having been the 
 memorable enterprise of Louis Philippe in removing 
 the obelisk of Luxor to the centre of the Place de la 
 Concorde in Paris, in 1836. 
 
 Beneath the Victoria Embankment, for its entire 
 length, run three tunnels. The inland one is used by 
 
194 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the Metropolitan District Railway, and the outer two, 
 situated one above the other, are utilized in one 
 instance as an intercepting sewer, and in the other 
 for holding gas-pipes, water-pipes, and telegraph 
 wires. The Embankment has lately been lighted by 
 electricity. 
 
 The Albert Embankment is on the opposite side of 
 the Thames, which is here some four hundred yards 
 wide. It extends from Westminster Bridge to Vaux- 
 hall Bridge, a distance of about four-fifths of a mile. 
 Adjacent to it rises the extensive St. Thomas's Hospital, 
 and also Lambeth Palace, the London residence of the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury. The Chelsea Embank- 
 ment is further up the river on the north side. 
 
 One of the best ways to see London — or much of 
 it — is to make one or two trips on the Thames in the 
 little steamers which ply up and down the stream with 
 great frequency. By starting from London Bridge and 
 going up the river to Chelsea, St. Paul's, Somerset 
 House, Cleopatra's Needle, the Houses of Parliament, 
 St. Thomas's Hospital, Lambeth Palace, Chelsea Hos- 
 pital, the several Embankments, and all the chief 
 bridges are passed. Of the bridges the Waterloo is 
 the finest. It is 1,320 feet long, and cost over one 
 million pounds. Boats also run to Putney, Hammer- 
 smith, and Kew Gardens, and on certain days as far as 
 Richmond and Hampton Court. Kew Gardens are said 
 to contain the finest botanical gardens in the world, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 195 
 
 and Bichmond is also a much frequented and very 
 beautiful resort. 
 
 A trip down the river from London Bridge affords a 
 view of the shipping and of the great lines of ware- 
 houses which tell of the wealth and commercial influ- 
 ence of the great city. Below that point there are at 
 present no bridges, but one is contemplated at Little 
 Tower Hill. The Port of London, in a general sense, 
 extends from London Bridge to a point six and a half 
 miles below, but most of the shipping is found era- 
 braced within a distance of four miles, or above Dept- 
 ford. About fifty thousand vessels enter and leave the 
 Thames every year, and the scene presented on the 
 river, and at the great docks (which are chiefly on the 
 north side of the Thames), is, one of unexampled 
 activity. Ships bearing the produce of every nation 
 under the sun are here seen. St. Katherine's Docks 
 have an extent of 24 acres, and no less than 1,250 
 houses, with 11,300 inhabitants, were displaced to make 
 room for them. London Docks cover an area of 120 
 acres, and cost the enormous sum of £4,000,000. In 
 conjunction with these is a kiln, popularly known as 
 the "Queen's Tobacco Pipe," where adulterated tea and 
 tobacco, and other confiscated goods are burned. The 
 Commercial Docks comprise 50 acres ; the West India 
 Docks 300 acres ; the Millwall Docks 100 acres ; the 
 Victoria Docks are nearly two miles in length; and 
 there are in addition the Surrey and the East India 
 
196 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Docks. In going down the river, too, many interesl 
 ing objects are passed, including Billingsgate Market, 
 the Custom-House and The Tower. At Greenwich, 
 six miles below London Bridge, are the celebrated 
 Greenwich Hospital for aged and disabled seamen, and 
 Greenwich Park, containing the Koyal Observatory, 
 from the meridian of which all English astronomers 
 make their calculations ; and at Woolwich, three miles 
 further down the river, is England's great military 
 establishment, which includes a great number of build- 
 ings used as workshops, magazines, barracks, &c. 
 The Arsenal covers an area of 100 acres, and gives 
 employment to 10,000 men. Greenwich is greatly 
 resorted to on account of its "white-bait" dinners. 
 The Greenwich Hospital, established in 1794, occupies 
 the site of an old ro}^al palace in which Henry VIII. 
 and his daughters Mary and Elizabeth were born. 
 
 The Bank of England and the Royal Exchange, 
 w T hich are in close proximity to each other within the 
 Old City of London, are well worth a visit if the 
 stranger has time to devote to them, although there are 
 many things to first claim his attention. The Bank, 
 popularly called the "Old Lady of Threadneedle 
 Street,'' is an isolated series of buildings, covering an 
 area of about four acres. The bank vaults usually 
 contain from fifteen to twenty million pounds sterling 
 in gold and silver. The business offices of the Bank 
 are accessible to the public from nine o'clock until 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 197 
 
 three, but special orders have to be obtained for visits 
 to the printing, weighing, and bullion departments. 
 The Koyal Exchange has an imposing fagade, and in 
 front is Chan trey's equestrian statue of Wellington. 
 The business of the Exchange is conducted in an open 
 quadrangular court, which is surrounded by a colon- 
 nade. In the centre is a statue of Queen Victoria, by 
 Lough, and there are also statues of Queen Elizabeth, 
 Charles II., Sir Thomas Gresham (the founder of the 
 first Exchange) , and others. In rear of the Exchange, 
 in Threadneedle Street, is a fine statue of George 
 Peabody, by Story, erected by public subscription 
 in 1871. 
 
 Some members of our party found time for excur- 
 sions to Windsor Castle, to Hampton Court, to Green- 
 wich and Woolwich, and to other places of interest 
 outside London ; and many of them visited the Crys- 
 tal Palace at Sydenham. The Crystal Palace, opened 
 upon its present site in 1854, and constructed in the 
 main of the materials used in the exhibition buildings 
 in Hyde Park three years previous, constitutes, with 
 its magnificent gardens, two hundred acres in extent, 
 one of the noblest pleasure-resorts in the world. It 
 lies in the county of Surrey, adjacent to the borders 
 of Kent, nearly a dozen miles from the city, and may 
 be reached by several different railway lines. There 
 is a High Level service and a Low Level service. 
 Most of us went out on the day of the Band of Hope 
 
198 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 fete, when a crowd of over seventy thousand persons 
 was assembled, although some members of the party 
 preferred to remain in town and witness the popular 
 demonstration in honor of Lord Beaconsfield, on his 
 return from the successful peace negotiations at Ber- 
 lin. Taking a High Level train at Ludgate Hill 
 station, an important connection on the Metropolitan 
 line of railway, and also one of the chief starting 
 points of the London, Chatham, and Dover line, we 
 crossed the bridge at Blackfriars, and were soon roll- 
 ing along on a level with the tile-roofs and chim- 
 neys on the Surrey side. The red tile-roofs, which 
 have to. a great extent lost their original tints, on 
 account of the smoke, and the queer-looking chimney- 
 pots which tower above them, singly, in groups, and 
 in colonies, form interesting objects for study after 
 the traveller has been journeying through subterra- 
 nean London. Soon the more open country is 
 reached, but there is not much time to enjoy the bright 
 prospects of garden, field, and suburban villas, before 
 the tall towers and lofty glass roof of the Crystal 
 Palace are in the foreground. 
 
 The length of the main structure of the Crystal 
 Palace is one thousand six hundred and eight feet, 
 and there are also two wings of five hundred and 
 seventy-four feet each, and a colonnade of seven hun- 
 dred and twenty feet. The whole area enclosed by 
 the building is six hundred and three thousand and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 199 
 
 seventy-two feet. The height of the nave is one hun- 
 dred and ten feet and three inches, and of the central 
 transept, one hundred and seventy-four feet and three 
 inches ; and there are two great water-towers, two 
 hundred and eighty-four feet high. The interior, or 
 a large part of it, is a sort of bazaar, where almost 
 anything may be purchased. There are also a number 
 of courts (the Egyptian, Roman, Alhambra, Byzan- 
 tine, Mediaeval, Renaissance, Italian, &c.), each with 
 its special exhibitions of sculpture, architecture, an- 
 tiquities, and other objects ; and in galleries are paint- 
 ings, a technological museum, and various other fea- 
 tures of more or less interest — generally less ; for in 
 spite of many interesting objects, the Crystal Palace 
 collections have a cheap look, after the well-arranged 
 cabinets of the British and South Kensington muse- 
 ums have been examined. There are also within the 
 palace the Handel Orchestra, where great choral con- 
 certs are given ; a concert-room, a theatre or opera- 
 house, an aquarium, and a skating-rink. The gardens 
 are beautifully laid out, and include lakes, lawns, 
 cricket-grounds, archery-grounds, and delightfully 
 shaded nooks, as well as broad walks and a profusion 
 of flowers. Here, too, is situated the series of foun- 
 tains, claimed to be the finest in the world, and cer- 
 tainly not excelled by anything of their kind, except 
 possibly by the fountains in the park at Versailles. 
 The great fountains are played only on great occa- 
 
200 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 sions, like fete days, and then only for a short time. 
 In a "grand display," one hundred and twenty thou- 
 sand gallons of water are thrown up every minute, and 
 some of the jets rise to a height of over two hundred 
 feet. One of these extraordinary displays was in- 
 cluded in the Band of Hope fete, and was well worth a 
 journey from London to see. The programme of the 
 fete also included two great choral concerts, by five 
 thousand children, in the Handel Orchestra ; four great 
 temperance meetings, one of which was presided over 
 by Mr. John M. Cook, of the firm of Thomas Cook 
 & Son, the excursion agents; a competitive con- 
 cert by brass bands ; several organ concerts ; several 
 entertainments by bell-ringers ; a race between two 
 balloons, the " Excelsior" and " Crusader ; " a cricket- 
 match, and various other contests in athletic sports ; 
 the illumination of the palace ; and aerial perform- 
 ances by the Hanlon-Voltas. All these features could 
 be enjoyed, together with indefinite rambles through 
 the palace and grounds, for the modest sum of one 
 shilling — about twenty-four cents in American money. 
 The two concerts by the children formed a very inter- 
 esting feature. A different chorus, each numbering 
 five thousand voices, took part, members of the 
 provincial Bands of Hope appearing at 2 o'clock, 
 and members of the metropolitan organizations at 
 6.30 o'clock. The conductor at both concerts was 
 Mr. Frederick Smith, and the organist Mr. F. J. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD, 
 
 201 
 
 Kead, Mus. Bac. The singing at the first concert, 
 the only one I chanced to hear, was excellent, the 
 young voices being heard with admirable effect in 
 songs of a simple character. The programmes, which 
 contained several temperance songs and choruses by 
 American composers, were as follows : — 
 
 First Concert. 
 
 Song of Triumph. 
 
 Cry out and Shout. . 
 Safe and Strong. 
 
 Life's Battle-field. . 
 The Child's Pleading. 
 
 Escape from the City. 
 God is near Thee. 
 The Green Little Islands. 
 The Gushing Rill. . 
 The Skylark's Song. . 
 Look not upon the Wine. 
 
 The Happy Farmer. . 
 Sleighing Song. . 
 Meet me at the Fountain. 
 National Anthem. 
 
 Words by W. J. Harvey ; Music 
 
 by A. S. Sullivan. 
 Music by P. P. Bliss. 
 Words and music by Rev. Alfred 
 
 Taylor. 
 Music by Offenbach. 
 Words by John Guest ; Music by 
 
 W. F. Sherwin. 
 Music by Flotow. 
 
 Words by M. B. C. Slade. , 
 
 Music by Woodbury. 
 
 Music by Mendelssohn. 
 
 From John Tregenovveth ; Music 
 
 by Rev. R. Lowry. 
 Music by Schumann. 
 Music by G. F. Root. 
 Words and music by P. P. Bliss. 
 
 Opening Hymn. . 
 
 In Jewry is God known. 
 Touch not the Cup. . 
 
 Sound the Loud Timbrel. 
 
 Second Concert. 
 
 . Words by W. J. Harvey ; Music 
 
 by F. Foster. 
 . Dr. J. Clarke Whitfield. 
 . Words by Rev. E. P. Hood ; Music 
 
 by J. R- Sweeney. 
 . Words by Thomas Moore ; Music 
 
 by Avison. 
 
202 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Departure Words by W. Bartholomew ; Music 
 
 by Mendelssohn. 
 Drink Water Words by W. J. Harvey; Music 
 
 by W. D. Bradbury. 
 Escape from the City. . . Music by Flotow. 
 Dash it Down Words and music by Rev. R. 
 
 Lowry. 
 God is Near Thee. 
 
 O Hasten from the Busy Town. Music by H. R. Palmer. 
 The Social Glass. . . . Words by Stowe ; Music by L. 
 
 Cooke. 
 Song of the Gipsies. . . . Music by J. E. Seward. 
 Meet me at the Fountain.. . Words and music by P. P. Bliss. 
 National Anthem. 
 
 As the musical and fashionable London season was 
 not over at the time of our visit, there were opportu- 
 nities to attend the opera at both Covent Garden and 
 Her Majesty's Theatre. At the former, Adelina Patti 
 and Mdlle. Albani were singing, and at the latter, 
 Mme. Etelka Gerster, the Hungarian songstress, who 
 has since created a furore in our own country, as 
 she had already succeeded in doing in England. The 
 theatres of London, as a general thing, are both 
 smaller and much less brilliant in appearance than 
 the chief playhouses in our large American cities. A 
 new National Opera House has been begun on the 
 Thames Embankment, near Westminster Bridge, but 
 all operations upon it have for some time been sus- 
 pended for want of funds. 
 
 On one of the days of our visit to London, a 
 spectacle was presented which was by no means a 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 203 
 
 familiar one to the eyes of the natives themselves. 
 It was a sight of Boyalty. It was on the afternoon of 
 Saturday. Learning that the Queen was to attend a 
 garden fete, given by the Prince of Wales, at Marl- 
 borough House, I stationed myself at the top of 
 Constitution Hill, opposite Buckingham Palace, where 
 Her Majesty was sure to pass on her way from Pacl- 
 dington station when she arrived from Windsor. 
 There had been a state ball at Buckingham Palace 
 the evening previous, by command of the Queen, 
 who, however, was not present. The garden fete, 
 like the state ball, assembled a vast concourse of the 
 nobility, and an interesting ho in- was passed in scan- 
 ning the elegant equipages as they rolled by and up 
 the mall of St, James's Park. A timely "tip" of a 
 shilling to a gatekeeper of Buckingham Palace, who 
 was aiding the policemen in their duties of keeping 
 the carriage-way clear, served to establish the identity 
 of the leading- people who passed. In some cases, 
 earls, dukes, and even members of the royal family 
 made less show than representatives of the lesser 
 world who were only out for an airing, and could not 
 even boast the honor of an invitation to the* fete. 
 Among those who passed during the period of our 
 stay, were the Duke of Connaught, the Grand Duke 
 and Duchess of Hesse (the Princess Alice) and their 
 children, the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg Strelitz, 
 the Prince and Princess Christian of Schleswig, the 
 
2U4 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Duke and Duchess of Teck, the Duke of Cambridge, 
 the Princess Louise (who had been to Buckingham 
 Palace to visit her sister, the Princess Alice, but did 
 not attend the fete given by her brother, on account 
 of the recent death of her husband's mother, the 
 Duchess of Argyle), Lord Cairns (the Lord High 
 Chancellor), and no end of noble personages. To- 
 wards five o'clock, there was a sudden stopping of 
 carriages on the road in front of Buckingham Palace, 
 and soon thereafter the royal cortege came around the 
 corner from Hyde Park way at a galloping gait. First 
 came a mounted policeman, then a small detachment 
 of the Guards, resplendent in red and gold uniforms, 
 and seated on coal-black steeds ; next a rush of four 
 pairs of spirited and handsome black horses attached 
 to the royal carriage (an open barouche) , a momentary 
 vision of a pleasant-faced, stout, elderly lady in black, 
 and two younger ones in brighter colors, with two 
 servants, — one of them John Brown, — perched upon 
 the seat behind ; last of all another detachment of the 
 Guards, and the whole imperial turnout was gone. 
 The Queen might readily be recognized from her 
 later portraits. She was accompanied on this occasion 
 by the Princess Beatrice, and one of her ladies in 
 waiting. As she rode by, the bystanders, of whom 
 there were by this time quite a large crowd, respect- 
 fully raised their hats. Much respect was also shown 
 the Grand Duke of Hesse and his family, the Prince 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 205 
 
 and Princess Christian, and the Duke and Duchess of 
 Teck. The children of the latter, and also of the 
 Grand Duke of Hesse and Princess Alice, who were 
 several times driven by, invariably acknowledged the 
 salutes of the crowd, the boys lifting their hats. 
 
 It has been said that a visit to London is incomplete 
 without hearing the celebrated preacher, Spur- 
 geon. Few Americans who go to London depart 
 without listening to his eloquence. The Tabernacle, 
 where he preaches, has five thousand sittings, and is 
 always filled. It is situated in Newington Butts, on 
 the Surrey side of the Thames, but a short distance 
 from the Elephant and Castle, which, besides being a 
 celebrated inn, is a well-known omnibus centre, and 
 also a railway-station. Thither a large number of our 
 excursion-party went Sunday morning, while others 
 visited St. Paul's to hear a choral service, or West- 
 minster Abbey to hear Dean Stanley, reserving their 
 visit to Mr. Spurgeon's Tabernacle until the evening 
 service. 
 
 Mr. Spurgeon's voice is rich and powerful, and he 
 has a style of eloquence peculiarly his own. He is 
 very magnetic, and never fails to hold the undivided 
 attention of his vast congregation. There is no organ 
 in the church, and the singing is wholly congregational, 
 and of the most inspiring order, for the reverend gen- 
 tleman's hearers cannot resist becoming enthusiastic 
 under his influence. Mr. Spurgeon is an energetic 
 
206 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 worker, and his success has been very marked. 
 He seems to possess the love and confidence not only 
 of his great circle of fellow-worshippers, but of the 
 whole surrounding community. Even the omnibus- 
 drivers speak of his goodness and his well-known 
 charity in enthusiastic terms. 
 
 Behind the Tabernacle is the Pastor's College, one 
 of Mr. Spurgeon's earliest enterprises, and one which 
 he regards as his favorite work. It began with a 
 single pupil, and now has nearly one hundred. Chapels 
 all over the country, and even in the colonies, call on 
 the college for a supply of pastors. In connection 
 with the college is a loan-fund, the object of which is 
 to assist, by gift or loan, without interest, in the build- 
 ing, enlargement, or repair of chapels in which former 
 students of the college officiate. Another noble insti- 
 tution, which owes its existence to Mr. Spurgeon, is 
 the Orphanage, situated near the Clapham Road, and 
 containing accommodations for two hundred and fifty 
 children. The system upon which this is conducted is 
 based, as far as possible, on the model of the family 
 circle. The school is conducted in classes, and the 
 boys feed at a common table, but they live together in 
 little colonies of from thirty to forty-six, a separate 
 house being provided for each colony, or family. 
 These houses are, as the inscriptions indicate, gifts 
 from various sources. There is " The Merchants' 
 House," "The Workmen's House" (the funds for 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 207 
 
 which were mainly subscribed by a firm of builders and 
 their workmen), "The Unity House" (erected by a 
 husband in memory of his wife), and "The Silver 
 Wedding House " (built, as the inscription testifies, 
 in gratitude to God for twenty-five years of happy 
 wedded life). 
 
 At Mr. Spurgeon's Sunday School, one of the Amer- 
 ican visitors, Rev. O. D. Kimball, of Leominster, 
 Mass., was invited to address the children. 
 
 As already mentioned, our party was divided into 
 Hve different sections upon its arrival in London. 
 These different bodies left England at different times ; 
 the first, second, and third divisions (or, as Mr. Cook 
 chose to designate them, the "Italian," and the first 
 and second " Swiss ") entered upon the Continent in 
 the direction of Antwerp, and the two others proceeded 
 first to Paris, reversing the order of Continental travel 
 pursued by the others. As the writer was a member of 
 the fifth (or fourth "Swiss") section, the narrative of 
 travel will be continued in the succeeding chapters in 
 accordance with the route it pursued. All the divi- 
 sions visited the same places, but, as already indicated, 
 three sections took them in different order than is here 
 laid down, and, so far as the passage of the Rhine and 
 the tour of Switzerland are concerned, in a more 
 preferable course.. The movements of the several 
 divisions, other than the fourth " Swiss," are detailed 
 in later chapters. „ 
 
208 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 Leaving London for Paris — The Route via Newhaven and Dieppe 
 
 — Crossing the English Channel — A Famous French Watering- 
 Plaee — The Railway Ride through Normandy — Rouen — The 
 Valley of the Seine — Entering Paris — The Hotel Bedford — 
 The Boulevards — The Cafe's — The Fortifications — The Sew- 
 ers — How the Paris Streets are Cleaned — The Champs Elys6es 
 
 — The Place de la Concorde and its History — The Ohelisk of 
 Luxor — The Arc de Triomphe — The Bois de Boulogne — 
 The Church of the Madeleine — The Church of Notre Dame — 
 Ancient Lutetia — The Palais de Justice and Sainte Chapelle — 
 The Morgue — The Hotel Cluny -*- The Pantheon, &c. 
 
 Our division, which was under the leadership of 
 Dr. Tourjee, and the conductorship of Mr. W. H. 
 Smith, a representative of Messrs. Thomas Cook & 
 Son, left London for Paris on tho morning of Wednes- 
 day, July 17, going by the way of Newhaven and 
 Dieppe. We were taken from our hotel to the London 
 Bridge Station, the terminus of the Brighton and 
 South Coast Eailway, a full hour before the time the 
 train was to start. The American traveller quickly 
 learns in Europe, that when transportation, by rail is 
 in consideration, he is expected to be not only on 
 time, but considerably ahead of it. Under ordinary 
 circumstances there are various preliminaries to be 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 209 
 
 gone through with in the way of purchasing a ticket, 
 and seeing to the luggage, which must be "lifted" by 
 a porter, and perchance weighed if there is a proba- 
 bility that the trunk or portmanteau runs above the 
 free-luggage limitation. Fortunately these details 
 were attended to by our conductor, and we had the 
 entire time to examine the not-over-attractive station, 
 and to read the time-cards. Every passenger must be 
 in his seat some minutes before the train starts, or he 
 is left behind. The " last man " has no chance to run 
 after the moving train and swing on to a platform, as 
 with us, and consequently one class of accidents not 
 uncommon in America, is wholly guarded against. 
 
 The distance from London to Newhaven (Avhich 
 lies a few miles east of the famous watering-place of 
 Brighton) is 56 miles, and the railway runs through 
 very pleasant portions of Surrey and Sussex. The 
 principal towns upon the line are Croydon, ten miles 
 out, and Lewes, a few miles above Newhaven. 
 Brighton is a place of much more importance than 
 either, having a permanent population of over 100,000, 
 and an annual influx of 50,000 summer visitors. It 
 is by far the most frequented seaside resort in the 
 British Islands. The South Down Hills, which stretch 
 along the coast for a considerable distance, are reached 
 north of Newhaven. A few miles east is a bold head- 
 land called Beachy Head, beyond which lie Eastbourne 
 and Hastings, both seaside resorts, and northward of 
 
210 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the promontory of Dungeness, are Folkestone and 
 Dover, the two latter places, like Newhaven, being 
 the English ports of departure for important lines of 
 Continental travel. The Newhaven and Dieppe route 
 has a longer sea-voyage (65 miles) than the other 
 lines, but there is an advantage in this, inasmuch as 
 the " chop sea " often encountered in the narrow part 
 of the Channel is sometimes avoided, while the route 
 by rail from Dieppe to Paris, is said to be much pleas- 
 anter and far more interesting in every way than the 
 more northern routes. 
 
 We embarked on a small but comfortable little 
 steamer, in company with a goodly number of other 
 passengers, mainly "first-class," who were, for the 
 most part, on their way to the Paris Exposition. We 
 had anticipated all sorts of uncomfortable sensations 
 in crossing the Channel, for a placid sea is rare there- 
 abouts. Happily we were disappointed. In mid- 
 channel there was a gentle swell, but aside from this 
 the water was smooth and far from disagreeable. A 
 third of the way across, after the English cliffs had 
 faded in the summer haze into an indistinct line, we 
 ran into a fog-bank, but we emerged from its obscurity 
 sometime before reaching the French shore. 
 
 We saw scarcely a vessel until the neighborhood of 
 Dieppe was reached. This ancient Normandy town 
 was formerly — say three centuries ago — the most 
 flourishing seaport in France, but Havre has robbed it 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 211 
 
 of its ancient prestige. It had, in that remote period, 
 sixty thousand inhabitants, and its ships penetrated to 
 various parts of the globe, some of its sons becoming 
 celebrated navigators. One of these worthies, the 
 sturdy old Admiral Duquesne, who beat the Dutch 
 Admiral de Ruyter, off the coast of Sicily, is com- 
 memorated by a statue in one of the public squares of 
 the town, and by another at Versailles. The perma- 
 nent population of the place is not now more than one- 
 third what it was three hundred years ago, and its 
 maritime importance is confined wholly to fishing. It 
 is, in fact, one of the chief fishing-ports of France, 
 and daily sends large supplies of the finny tribe to 
 both Eouen and Paris. It is likewise a great place of 
 fashionable resort in the warm season, and its plage or 
 sea-beach is lined with hotels and handsome villas. It 
 also has an extensive Etablissement ties Bains, a hand- 
 some, fanciful building, where may be found not only 
 a conversation-room, a reading-room, and general 
 lounging facilities, but also a ball-room, and a small 
 theatre, where Parisian companies play during the 
 summer. In front are the bath-houses, or tents, and 
 toward the town is a bazaar. The town itself is quite 
 compact, and is situated at the mouth of the river 
 Arques in a depression between two high ranges of 
 chalk cliffs which here line the coast. » These cliffs are 
 nearly as tall, and quite as white as their English 
 neighbors on the other side of the Channel, and pre- 
 
212 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 sent a very picturesque appearance on the approach 
 from the sea. 
 
 Entering the harbor, which comprises a series of 
 basins, we land on a quay adjacent to the railway sta- 
 tion ; but as Neptune's complacent mood has brought 
 us across his domain ahead of schedule time, we have 
 about an hour to stroll through the quaint streets and 
 out upon the beach. As we are booked through, to 
 Paris, the examination of our personal effects (now 
 termed "bagages" and not "luggage") by the customs 
 officials, will take place there instead of at Dieppe, but 
 the passport official must interview us. The passen- 
 gers file past that officer, from whom the announce- 
 ment of V Americain or V Anglais elicits the politest of 
 smiles and an intimation to pass on without further 
 hindrance. Passports are not required from either 
 American or English travellers. 
 
 The west part of the town is inhabited chiefly by 
 fishermen, but to that section which is said to be the 
 oldest and quaintest part of Dieppe, we did not pen- 
 etrate, as we had landed upon the opposite side of the 
 basins, and a walk thither would have occupied too 
 much time. The houses are comparatively modern, for 
 the reason that the place was destroyed in 1694 by the 
 English, who were returning from an unsuccessful 
 attack on Brest. On a precipitous cliff, beyond the 
 bathing establishment and the bazaar, rises an old 
 castle, now used simply as barracks. It was erected 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 213 
 
 in 1433 as a means of defence against the English. 
 Within its walls Henry IY. of France retreated before 
 the army of the Roman Catholic League, and found 
 shelter ; and a few miles distant is the castle and battle- 
 field of Arques, where that same monarch gained his 
 signal victory over the League. A short distance up 
 the coast from Dieppe is an ancient camp, by some 
 supposed to be Roman, and by others Gallic. 
 
 The distance from Dieppe to Paris, via Rouen, is 
 about one hundred and twenty-five miles, and the line 
 is a part of the Chemin de Fer de L' Ouest, which also 
 extends to Havre, Cherbourg, and other important 
 points. The express trains, with but few stops en 
 route, make the distance in about four hours. The 
 first-class railway carriages were found to be luxurious 
 in their appointments, and the journey was very agree- 
 able, except for the prevalence of dust. Shooting out 
 of Dieppe and through a long tunnel, we emerge into 
 the valley of the little river Scie, which the railway 
 crosses a score or more of times. The scenery is 
 picturesque and very pleasing. We are in the 
 country, but pleasant little villages are scattered along 
 the stream, some of them rising to greater show and 
 importance than the others, on account of a cotton- 
 mill or two. We catch many glimpses of the homes 
 of the farmers as we rush past their thatched cottages 
 and barns. Throughout Normandy the apple-tree 
 takes the place of the vine, and cider is the bibulous 
 
A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 stimulant instead of wine-. The orchards have a very 
 pretty and homelike effect, as they stretch out their 
 lines of trees upon the plains and hillsides. Out in 
 the fields the women are gathering the hay-crop, 
 which is here, as in England and Scotland, quite 
 heavy. In all parts of the Continent, as well as in 
 some parts of Great Britain, the women do most of 
 the out-door work, exercising their "rights" with a 
 freedom and vigor that should put the men to blush. 
 Many of the women wear the quaint and pretty Nor- 
 mandy caps. The hedge-rows and charming stretches 
 of woodland remind the traveller of England. The 
 plains, especially in the vicinity of the larger towns, 
 are studded with gaunt poplars, which stretch away 
 along the roadside in geometrical lines, adding a 
 strange but by no means unpleasant feature to the 
 scenery, though rows of spreading elms would be 
 more welcome. The ruins of some ancient castles are 
 seen along the route, and near the station of St. 
 Victor, at the head of the Scie, there was formerly an 
 abbey, which was founded by William the Conqueror. 
 From the Scie the railway passes through a long and 
 deep cutting, to the Valley de Cleres, and soon joins 
 the line between Rouen and Havre. 
 
 The approach to Rouen, a rich and populous city, 
 which has attained great commercial importance on 
 account of its cotton manufactures, is clearly indicated. 
 But little do we see of the "Manchester of France" 
 
JOAN OF ARC'S TOWER, ROUEN. 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 215 
 
 from the cars. The railway provokingly traverses 
 one of its lines of boulevards, through a long tunnel, 
 and even the station has burrowed down in a chalk 
 hill, out of sight of its surroundings. There are tun- 
 nels on both sides of it, and not until the train has got 
 beyond the city, on its way to Paris, is the traveller 
 gratified by a view of the place. With its suburbs, 
 Rouen contains one hundred and fifty thousand inhab- 
 itants, and its outskirts are a mass of factory chim- 
 neys. There are two great churches, with high 
 towers, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, and the hand- 
 somer church of St. Otien. The former has an iron 
 spire, of rather ungainly appearance, which rises to the 
 immense height of four hundred and eighty-two feet. 
 The principal parts of the Cathedral date back to the 
 early years of the thirteenth century. The church of 
 St. Ouen, which* is termed one of the most beautiful 
 Gothic structures in existence, was founded in 1318. 
 Its chief tower is two hundred and sixty-eight feet 
 high. The Place de la Puce lie is where Joan of Arc 
 was so cruelly burned at the stake in 1431, and in a 
 museum of antiquities the "lion heart" of Richard 
 Cceur de Lion is kept, together with many relics of 
 the Roman period and of the Middle Ages. 
 
 At Rouen we are about one hundred miles from the 
 sea at Havre, by the tortuous course of the river 
 Seine, although the railway line thither is scarcely 
 more than half as long. The railway to Paris follows 
 
216 A- SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the general line of the river, but is also much shorter 
 than the winding stream, which at several points 
 makes huge bends and loops. The distance traversed 
 by the cars is eighty-six miles. The scenery is more 
 varied than it is between Dieppe and Rouen, and the 
 views much more extended, as the river broadens the 
 prospect and opens up some glorious vistas while the 
 train bends away from the stream or towards it 
 again. The chief towns through which the road 
 passes are Vernon, Mantes, and Poissy, all of which 
 are places of historic interest. A few miles from the 
 little station of Gaillon, upon one of the bends of the 
 Seine, stands an ancient castle, formerly one of the 
 finest in Normandy, and the favorite residence of 
 Francis I. Tunnels are numerous on the line, and 
 generally intervene just as the traveller endeavors to 
 scan some pleasant bit of scenery. A dozen miles or 
 so from Paris the train passes through the Forest of 
 St. Germain, and but a few miles north of the old 
 town, to which, however, a branch line extends. The 
 Seine is crossed several times in the course of the 
 journey, finally between Asnieres and Clichy, which 
 are in the suburbs of Paris. 
 
 It was not far from six o'clock when we rolled into 
 the station of St. Lazare, between eleven and twelve 
 hours from London ; and after a brief detention by 
 the custom-house officers, we were on our way in 
 omnibuses provided expressly for our accommodation, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 217 
 
 to the neat and comfortable Hotel Bedford, which is 
 situated between the Eue de l'Arcade and the Hue 
 Pasquier, a short distance from the Church of the 
 Madeleine. Here we found Mr. Bruce's division (the 
 third " Swiss ") , from whom we had been separated in 
 London, and who had preceded us on the journey by 
 twenty-four hours. Sixty or seventy Americans were 
 certainly enough to impart a decidedly foreign aspect 
 to the hotel and its pleasant courtyard ; and the few 
 French guests must have regarded with wondering 
 eyes and ears the gathering throng. An excellent 
 dinner served to render the new comers comfortable 
 and contented ; and some of the party were all ready to 
 begin their inspection of Paris. The greater number, 
 however, chose to fortify themselves with sleep 
 against the morrow, when their round of sight-seeing 
 would begin in real earnest. 
 
 Paris, during the summer of 1878, was crowded 
 with strangers, drawn thither chiefly by the Great 
 Exposition ; but the historic and beautiful city itself 
 formed the greater exhibition. The stranger who finds 
 himself in Paris for the first time is at once struck by 
 its broad and well-shaded boulevards, by the beauty 
 and attractiveness of its numerous shops, and by the 
 gayety and animation of its out-door life. The boule- 
 vards, and many of the lesser thoroughfares, are lined 
 with cafes; but the drinking, smoking, and lounging 
 are done at little tables upon the sidewalk. The liquids 
 
218 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 most dispensed are beer (in Paris denominated hoc) 
 and light French wines. These beverages are ex- 
 tremely mild in their influence, and an intoxicated 
 person is not often seen in public. During the early 
 part of the day the cafes, as well as the boulevards 
 and gardens, are deserted, for the Paris day does not 
 begin till noon, that is, in fashionable estimation; but 
 in the afternoon and evening crowds are seen every- 
 where. Compared with London, which is grave and 
 sombre, Paris is light, cheerful, and frivolous. The 
 crowds of pleasure-seekers certainly suggest frivolity 
 and self-indulgence. The thousands of workers, of 
 course, are not seen except on holiday occasions, — 
 Sundays for example, — when they manifest at gar- 
 dens and other public resorts a very similar disposi- 
 tion to the more aristocratic classes. There are cafes 
 for the poor as well as the rich, and these are crowded 
 like the rest, especially in the evening. If the Paris 
 day begins late, and the true Parisian does not break- 
 fast until twelve o'clock, it also ends late. Midnight 
 finds the Champs Elysees and the chief boulevards as 
 brilliant and almost as animated as during the early 
 evening, and a ride about the city at any time during 
 the first half of the night is full of interest, since 
 many of the shops, as well as the cafes, theatres, ball 
 'and concert gardens, and the avenues themselves, are 
 ablaze with lights. The Place de la Concorde, and 
 the new Avenue clc l'Opera, are made almost as bright 
 as day by the new electric light. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. * 219 
 
 The system of the boulevards is of quite ancient 
 origin, hut to the late Emperor, and to Baron Hauss- 
 mnnn, the former enterprising Prefect of the Seine, 
 much of its present development is due. In the year 
 1670, during the reign of Louis XIV., the Grand 
 Monarque, under whose fostering care Paris began to 
 assume- both greatness and splendor, the bulwarks, 
 or fortifications (in other words boulevards) were 
 removed, and the moats filled up. On their site 
 sprang up a line of avenues. Those on the right 
 bank of the Seine, " Les Grands Boulevards,'" a term 
 applied especially to the line of broad streets, nearly 
 three miles in length, leading from the Madeleine to 
 the Place de la Bastille, are unsurpassed for elegance 
 anywhere in the world. The period that gave these 
 magnificent avenues to Paris, created also the hand- 
 some Tuileries Gardens, the Champs Ely sees, and 
 the grand embellishments of Versailles. The first 
 Napoleon carried out further stupendous street im- 
 provements, besides giving to the city its great mar- 
 kets, the Arc de Triomphe, <&c. ; and the recent 
 Emperor still further embellished the beautiful city 
 by building new avenues, and enlarging old ones. 
 The original boulevards having been planted with 
 trees, the term has been extended to all the new and 
 broad streets thus beautified. The " Boidevards 
 Exterieurs" mark the line of walls erected by Cal- 
 onne, the minister of Louis XVI., for the purpose of 
 
220 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 enabling the government to collect a tax on all pro- 
 visions brought into the city. These wholly surround 
 Paris, or rather the Paris of a century ago, for the 
 line of fortifications is still further away from the 
 heart of the great city. 
 
 The river Seine runs through Paris, as the Thames 
 does through London ; but the French bethought 
 themselves much earlier than the English to make the 
 river-front handsome and attractive. In Paris, as in 
 London, many little steamers ply between different 
 points on the river, though the omnibuses, tram-cars, 
 and the voilures, all of which are very cheaf), furnish 
 the chief means of intercommunication. The river- 
 front throughout the city is walled, and along its 
 banks are gardens and many of the most celebrated 
 buildings of the city. The bridges, too, are very 
 numerous, and in several instances very handsome. 
 Paris is a very clean city, and its system of sewers is 
 the most complete and effectual in the world. The 
 main sewers are conducted through capacious tunnels 
 under the streets, and may be navigated by boats, or 
 in cars. The sewer itself is really a canal in the 
 centre of the tunnel. At the top run the water-mains 
 and telegraph wires, the latter enclosed in pipes, and 
 there are walks upon the sides. Over the stream, or 
 at the edges, are tracks upon which the cars run, the 
 propelling power being men who walk upon the sides. 
 These cars can also be made to do the work of cleans- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. ' 221 
 
 ing the stream if desired, an attachment being placed 
 upon the vehicle, fitting into the concavity, and thus 
 the whole receptacle is swept out. The boats navigate 
 the larger sewers. At one point, it is said, there is a 
 netting for stopping the corks, millions of which are 
 gathered annually and cleansed. It is gratifying to 
 learn that this product is used, not in fresh bottles of 
 wine, but for the manufacture of a compound to be 
 placed between the walls of a house so that sounds 
 cannot be heard from one room to another. 
 
 The cleansing of the streets is done at night, or 
 rather in the early hours of the morning — between 3 
 and 6 o'clock in summer, and 4 and 7 o'clock in win- 
 ter. At these times no less than 12,916,800 square 
 yards of streets are swept. The refuse carts follow 
 the sweepers, working from 6 to 8 o'clock in summer, 
 and from 7 to 9 o'clock in the winter. The general 
 charge of the work of street-cleaning is in the hands 
 of the Prefect of the Seine, who has a staff for this 
 special service of two chief engineers, one for each 
 group of arrondissements, one group being subdivided 
 into three sections, each under the charge of an exec- 
 utive engineer, and the other into five sections, simi- 
 larly supervised. Then there are further subdivisions, 
 under superintendents and overseers, the engineers 
 having, in all, at their disposal, a force of 2,200 men, 
 950 women, and 30 children. Mechanical sweepers 
 are also employed to a large extent. 
 
222 A SUMMEE JAUNT 
 
 The streets of Paris are unquestionably the cleanest 
 in the world. The entire expense of keeping the 
 streets, ways, and squares of the great city in good 
 order during the year 1878, was placed' at twenty- 
 seven millions of francs, or about $5,400,000. The 
 receipts of the public-way department amount to about 
 twenty-four millions of francs a year. Every new 
 building which is erected must pay so much per square 
 foot. A balcony is taxed ten or twenty francs, ac- 
 cording to its height from the ground, and there is a 
 special tax for signs, lanterns, &c. The carriage- 
 stands pay more than four millions francs for the priv- 
 ilege. Each omnibus pays two thousand francs per 
 annum, and the street cars fifteen hundred francs each. 
 The bill-poster is taxed for his sign-boards ; the pro- 
 prietors of cafes are taxed for the privilege given their 
 patrons to sit on the sidewalk and drink their coffee ; 
 the skating ponds are leased, and, in short, the muni- 
 cipal fathers of Paris pick up an honest franc wherever 
 they can find it. Perhaps the strangest part of all is, 
 that the money seems to be honestly expended ; the 
 system so prevalent in our own country of using the 
 public funds for the enrichment of private purses 
 being an unknown, or at least an uncultivated art. 
 
 It must not be supposed that all the Paris streets 
 and public ways are broad and capacious. Far from 
 it. At many points along the grand boulevards a per- 
 son has . only to step aside from the gay and busy 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 223 
 
 throng to find himself almost immediately in some 
 section of old Paris, where the byway is narrow and 
 shadowy, and where the persons inhabiting the tall 
 houses on either side might almost clasp hands across 
 the thin division of space. But cleanliness is every- 
 where apparent, the sanitary regulations being carried 
 out systematically and effectually in all parts of the 
 city. 
 
 One of the noblest avenues in the whole world is 
 through the Champs Ely sees, extending westward 
 from the Place cle la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe 
 de 1'Etoile, about a mile. The Champs Ely sees were 
 originally laid out by Marie de Medicis in 1616 as a 
 pleasure-ground. The good of the people was a later 
 consideration. The wide driveways and promenades 
 are lined with elms and lime-trees, and flanked by 
 gardens, beyond which, on one side, are a line of 
 handsome buildings, chiefly residences, while on the 
 other is the Palais* cle lTndustrie, which served in 1855 
 for the first Great Exhibition at Paris, and in which, 
 during the months of May and June, the artists make 
 their yearly displays of new paintings. There, too, 
 the imposing ceremonies incident to the distribution of 
 prizes at the Exhibition of 1878 took place. The 
 Palais de 1'Elysee is upon the other side, with its front 
 upon the Rue St. Honore, and its gardens extending 
 down to the more public pleasure-grounds. This man- 
 sion was erected in 1718, and was considerably 
 
224 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 enlarged by Napoleon III. It has sheltered Mme. de 
 Pompadour, Napoleon I., the Duke of Wellington, 
 the Emperor Alexander, the Duchess de Berry, and 
 latterly the Presidents of the Republic. Napoleon III. 
 resided there while he was still President of the 
 Eepublic, and until his elevation to the throne, when 
 he removed to the Tuilerics. The principal gardens 
 which arc embraced in the Champs Elysees lie at the 
 easterly end, between the Place de la Concorde and 
 the Pond Point, about half-way to the noble Arc de 
 l'Etoile, which occupies a little elevation at the other 
 end of this magnificent thoroughfare. During the 
 afternoon and early evening, this is the fashionable 
 drive and promenade, being on the way to the Bois de 
 Boulogne, the great park of Paris. The end nearest 
 the town more especially presents a very animated 
 appearance. Qafes chantants, Theatres de Guignol 
 (marionettes), restaurants, cake-stalls, and the like, 
 are among the attractions, and they are largely patron- 
 ized. Upon a side avenue, near at hand, is the 
 famous — or rather infamous — Jardln Mabille. 
 
 „On the opposite side of the Place de la Concorde, 
 flanked by the Rue clc Rivoli (a paradise for ladies, and 
 gentlemen also, who desire to indulge in "shopping*' 
 excursions) and the river Seine, are the handsome 
 Tuileries Gardens, beyond which are the ruins of the 
 Palace of the Tuileries, the latter still forming a fierce 
 reminder of the fury of the Communist mobs of 1871. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 225 
 
 The Place de la Concorde is one of the most famous 
 public squares in Europe, not only on account of the 
 taste shown in its adornment, but also by reason of its 
 historic associations. In the centre of the square rises 
 the beautiful Obelisk of Luxor, one of two noble 
 monuments which formerly stood in front of the great 
 temple of Thebes, where- they were erected by Barn- 
 eses III., 1550 years b. c. It was presented by the 
 Pasha of Egypt to Louis Philippe, and removed from 
 Egypt to its present resting-place at great cost. The 
 sarcastic Parisians say that this object cost them four 
 francs per pound, its weight being estimated at five 
 hundred thousand pounds. The Obelisk is a monolith, 
 or single block, of reddish granite or syenite, seventy- 
 six feet in height. It rests upon a pedestal which is 
 approached by steps, the elevation of the whole monu- 
 ment being one hundred and five feet. There are 
 three vertical rows of hieroglyphics on each side of the 
 monolith, laudatory of King Kameses II. , still Avell 
 defined, although they were carved over three thousand 
 years ago. The Obelisk occupies a much finer site 
 than the similar monument recently erected on the 
 banks of the Thames in London. 
 
 Historically, too, this very spot has special interest. 
 The peaceful name by which the Place is known seems 
 a mockery, for here stood that terrible instrument of 
 decapitation, the guillotine (removed here from the 
 Place de Grevc where it was first set up at the recom- 
 
226 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 mendation of the physician Guillotin). From the 21st 
 of January, 1791, to the 3d of May, 1795, upwards of 
 two thousand eight hundred persons perished here, 
 and of the number were Louis XVI. (the first victim), 
 Charlotte Corday, the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette, 
 Louis Philippe (Duke of Orleans and father of King 
 Louis Philippe), the Princess" Elizabeth Marie Helcne 
 (sister of Louis XVI. ), Ilcbert, Danton, Robespierre, 
 Camille Dcsmoulins, and many other well-known his- 
 torical figures. The Place had seen some stirring 
 scenes previous to the Revolution, although it remained 
 only waste ground up to within a little more than a 
 century ago. A bronze statue of Louis XV. was 
 erected here in 1748, but on the 11th of August, 1792, ■ 
 the clay after the capture of the Tuileries, it was 
 removed by order of the Convention, and turned into 
 pieces of two sous. On the 30th of May, 1770, dur- 
 ing an exhibition of fireworks in honor of the marriage 
 of the Dauphin (afterwards Louis XVI.) with the 
 Arch-duchess Marie Antoinette, a panic was caused by 
 the premature discharge of some rockets, and no less 
 than twelve hundred persons were crushed to death, or 
 killed by being thrown into the ditches which then 
 surrounded the Place, while two thousand more were 
 severely injured. 
 
 In the present century the Place cle la Concorde has 
 also witnessed strange scenes. On the 10th of April, 
 1814, a solemn service was performed here in presence 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 227 
 
 of the Emperors Francis and Alexander, and King 
 Frederick William III., in memory of Louis XVI., 
 after which a Te Deum was sung as a thanksgiving 
 for their victory. On that occasion Prussian and Rus- 
 sian troops were bivouacked in the Champs Elysees. 
 The following year brought a camp of English soldiers. 
 In March, 1871, Prussian troops once more occupied 
 the Champs Elysees and the Place de la Concorde, and 
 in the month of May following, there took place in 
 the latter a most desperate struggle between the 
 Versailles troops and the Communists. A formidable 
 barricade had been erected in the adjacent Rue Royale, 
 in front of the Church of the Madeleine, and the 
 Communists thus commanded the Place. They were 
 driven back, although not until all the neighboring 
 houses were riddled with bullets and shells. Most of 
 the damage, however, was committed by the Com- 
 munists themselves, the miscreants desiring to take 
 revenge upon the wealthy residents of the neighbor- 
 hood. Houses w T ere fired, and firemen were caught 
 pouring petroleum into the doomed buildings from 
 their engines. In one instance, seven persons who 
 had taken refuge in a cellar were burned to death, and 
 in a neighboring maison tVaccouchment twenty-two of 
 the helpless patients are supposed to have perished in 
 the flames. These fiendish scenes were enacted on 
 the 2 2d and 23d of May, and on the latter date, three 
 hundred of the insurgents, who had been driven from 
 
228 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the barricades, took refuge in the church, but the 
 troops soon forced an entrance, and shot every one of 
 the party down. Although one of the beautiful foun- 
 tains in the Place de la Concorde, and also one of the 
 statues were greatly injured in the conflict which took 
 place in front of the barricades, the Obelisk of Lnxor 
 fortunately escaped. The fountains are two in num- 
 ber. One is dedicated to the seas, and the other to 
 the rivers, and the series of stone figures are emblem- 
 atical of the chief towns of France, outside Paris. 
 Lille and Strasbourg are by Pradier ; Bordeaux and 
 Nantes, by Calhouet ; Rouen and Brest, by Cortot ; 
 and Marseilles and Lyons, by Petitot. 
 
 The Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile, at the other end 
 of the beautiful Champs Ely sees, is an imposing struct- 
 ure, whether seen through any of the twelve ave- 
 nues which radiate therefrom, or directly in front. 
 In 1806, Napoleon I. formed the idea of erecting four 
 triumphal arches in different parts of the city, to com- 
 memorate his victories. Two only of these were 
 ever finished. This one was completed by Louis 
 Philippe in 1836, and the small arch in the Place du 
 Carrousel, in rear of the Tuileries, was built wholly 
 by the first Napoleon. The Arc de l'Etoile cost over 
 nine millions of francs, and consists of an arch ninety- 
 five feet high and forty-six feet wide, intersected by a 
 transversal arch fifty-nine feet high and nineteen feet 
 in width. The whole structure is one hundred and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 229 
 
 sixty feet in height, one hundred and forty-six feet in 
 width, and seventy-two feet in depth. The facades 
 are embellished by groups representing some of 
 Napoleon's great victories, or emblematical of the 
 heroism of the famous soldier and of the French 
 people. These are by Eude, Lemaire, Cortot, Seurre, 
 Etex, Chaponniere, Gechter, Marochetti, Pradier, 
 and others. Several of the groups are very finely 
 executed. The continuation of the Avenue des 
 Champs Ely sees, beyond the Arc de 1'Etoile, is called 
 the Avenue de la Grande Armee, and to the south of 
 this is another grand thoroughfare, the Avenue du 
 Bois de Boulogne, which forms one of the main 
 approaches to the noble park of the same name. 
 This beautiful pleasure-ground covers an area of two 
 thousand two hundred and fifty acres, and extends 
 nearly out to St, Cloud. It contains the Jarclin 
 dAcclimatation, and the race-course of Longchamps. 
 The fortifications of Paris skirt the Bois de Boulogne 
 on the city side. These ramparts are twenty-one 
 miles in extent, and completely surround Paris. 
 
 We chanced to be housed but a short distance from 
 the Church of the Madeleine, and consequently in a 
 very central location for sight-seeing excursions. The 
 famous church itself was, of course, one of the first 
 objects to attract our attention. It is a majestic struct- 
 ure and stands in an open space where its handsome 
 proportions may be seen to good advantage. Its 
 
-230 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 form is that of a Greek temple, three hundred and 
 fifty feet in length and one hundred and forty-seven 
 feet wide, surrounded by Corinthian columns fifty-two 
 feet in height. Sixteen of these columns support the 
 pediment of the south facade, fifteen are upon each 
 side, and eight support the north portico. The whole 
 structure rests upon a basement about twenty feet in 
 height, and is approached by a broad flight of steps. 
 The niches in the Avail of the south facade contain 
 thirty-four statues of saints, and the tympanum con- 
 tains a high relief of vast dimensions, by Lemaire, 
 representing the Last Judgment. This group is 
 one hundred and twenty-five feet in length and 
 twenty-three feet in height. The figure of the Sav- 
 iour in the centre is eighteen feet in height. The 
 building of the church was begun in 1764, and in 
 1806 Napoleon commanded its completion as a Temple 
 of Glory, with the inscription, " U empereur Napoleon 
 aux solda/s de la grande armee." Louis XVIII. altered 
 this plan and proposed to make the edifice an expia- 
 tory church to the memory of Louis XVI., Louis 
 XVII. , Marie Antoinette, and the Princess Elizabeth. 
 The construction of the church was again interrupted 
 by the Revolution of July, 1830, and it was not finally 
 completed until 1842, by which time there had been 
 expended upon it upwards of fourteen millions of 
 francs ($2,800,000). The interior is lighted wholly 
 by cupolas, and there are no windows upon the sides. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 231 
 
 The bronze doors, thirty-five feet in height and six- 
 teen feet wide, are adorned with illustrations of the 
 Ten Commandments, by Triquetti, and seven years 
 were occupied in their construction. The church 
 contains some fine marble groups by Marochetti, Rude, 
 and others. The bloody scene which was enacted 
 within the church at the time of the fearful Commun- 
 istic troubles, has already been referred to. 
 
 The Church of Notre Dame attracts more attention 
 from strangers than any other church edifice in Paris. 
 This is one of the oldest Gothic churches in France, 
 though far from being one of the most beautiful. It 
 was founded in 1163, but the interior and facaxle 
 were not completed until the early part of the suc- 
 ceeding century. Its length is four hundred and sev- 
 enteen feet, its width one hundred and fifty-six feet, 
 and its nave has a height of one hundred and ten feet ; 
 but notwithstanding these grand proportions, its gen- 
 eral effect is not imposing, a fact attributable to its 
 low situation, and to the absence of high spires, as 
 well as to various lesser defects in design. The most 
 striking part is the facade, which has a height of two 
 hundred and twenty feet, including the two corner 
 towers, and is divided into three stories. The lower 
 story contains three pointed, receding portals, the sides 
 of which are very elaborately sculptured. The centre 
 portal represents the Last Judgment ; the one on the 
 right is dedicated to St. Anne, and the one on the 
 
232 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 left, which is generally used, is dedicated to the 
 Virgin. This story is separated from the one above 
 it by a gallery, or series of niches, containing modern 
 statues of twenty-eight kings of France, from Chil- 
 debert I. to Philip Augustus, copied from those at 
 Eheims, the originals having been destroyed, with 
 many of the other sculptures in the church, in 1793, 
 when the edifice was converted into a "Temple of 
 Reason." Above this gallery is a statue of the Virgin, 
 a figure of Adam occupying a place upon the right, 
 and one of Eve upon the left. The chief ornament 
 of the second story is the magnificent rose window, 
 forty-two feet in diameter. The third story is a gal- 
 lery composed of pointed arches in pairs, borne by 
 slender columns, each pair of arches being crowned 
 by an open trefoil. Above this gallery runs an open 
 balustrade, surmounted by figures of monsters and 
 animals, and the facade terminates in tjie two massive 
 square towers, each of which is about fifty feet in 
 width. The towers are pierced by a pair of elon- 
 gated windows. The south tower contains the great 
 bell, which weighs sixteen tons. The interior, like 
 the exterior, has been restored within the present cen- 
 tury. There are numerous chapels, many of which 
 contain handsome tombs. Near one of the portals 
 are two slabs, upon which the names of seventy-five 
 victims of the Commune may be read. Monseigneur 
 Darboy, the venerable Archbishop of Paris, the Abbe 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 233 
 
 Duguerry, cure of the Madeleine, three other priests, 
 and Senator Bonjean, who were seized as hostages by 
 the fiendish Communists, and finally shot in the court- 
 yard of the prison of La Roquette, are buried here, 
 having been removed from Pere-la-Chaise, where the 
 bodies were ignominiously thrown into a trench. 
 The chapels are in most cases dedicated to deceased 
 archbishops and cardinals, two of whom, besides 
 Archbishop Darboy, were murdered; viz., Monseign- 
 eur Afire, who was shot in the outbreak of 1848, and 
 Monseigneur Sibour, who was killed by an ex-priest 
 in the Church of St. Etienne clu Mont, in 1857. In 
 the treasury of the church are numerous relics, in- 
 cluding what is claimed to be the crown of thorns, 
 and also a fragment of the true cross. Similar relics 
 are found in various parts of Europe. Among the 
 ecclesiastical vestments are preserved the bloody gar- 
 ments and other memorials of the murdered arch- 
 bishops. The church contains a fine organ. The 
 view from the tower of Notre Dame is considered the 
 finest in the city, although the prospect from the Tour 
 St. Jacques (all that remains of the old church of St. 
 Jacques de la Boucherie, near the Rue de Eivoli) and 
 from the Pantheon are very extended. 
 
 The Church of Notre Dame, as w r ell as the Palais 
 de Justice and the Hotel Dieu, is situated on the Isle 
 de la Cite\ the most ancient part of Paris. The town 
 of Lutetia existed here in the time of the Romans, 
 
A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and previous to the beginning of the Christian era. 
 At the time of the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, 
 this town was in existence as the stronghold of the 
 Parisii. Christianity was introduced here by St. 
 Dionysius (whose name has been abbreviated into St. 
 Denys, or St. Denis), who came with six others from 
 Rome to Gaul about the year 250, and suffered 
 martyrdom on Montmartre, the Martyr's Hill. Popu- 
 lar tradition credits St. Denis with having walked off 
 with his head under his arm after decapitation. The 
 Romans built many edifices in Paris ; but the only 
 trace of them now remaining is the Palais des Thermes, 
 near the Hotel Cluny, on the south side of the Seine. 
 The latter is a mansion erected in the fifteenth century 
 by the abbots of the wealthy Benedictine Abbey of 
 Cluny in Burgundy. It is supposed to have been 
 built upon the site of an ancient Roman palace, to 
 which the baths were attached. The ancient edifice is 
 believed to have been founded by the Roman Emperor 
 Constantius Chlorus, who resided in Gaul from 292 
 to 306, and it continued to be the residence of other 
 sovereigns, including some of the early Frank mon- 
 archs. The modern Hotel Cluny was also a royal 
 residence ; but it is now a museum of antiquities. 
 
 The Palais de Justice, as well as the Hotel de Ville, 
 which was situated not far away on the right bank of 
 the Seine, and the Palais des Tuileries, still further 
 down the river, were seriously damaged by the Com- 
 
SAIXTE CIIAPELLE, PARIS. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 235 
 
 munists, in 1871 ; but the ancient and beautiful Sainte 
 Chapelle was happily saved from destruction. This 
 chapel was founded in 1245, for the reception of the 
 sacred relics which St. Louis is said to have purchased 
 from Jean de Brienne, King of Jerusalem, and his 
 son-in-law Baldwin, Emperor of Byzantium, consist- 
 ing of the crown of thorns, fragments of the true 
 cross, &c. These relics are now preserved at Notre 
 Dame. The interior comprises two chapels, one 
 above the other, the upper one having been intended 
 for the court, and the lower for the attendants. The 
 upper chapel contains some beautiful stained-glass 
 windows, representing scenes from the life of St. 
 Louis. 
 
 The Morgue, where the corpses of unknown persons 
 who have perished in the river, or in the streets, are 
 exposed for identification, is situated in the rear of 
 the Church of Notre Dame. This hideous place has 
 between three and four hundred ghastly inmates 
 annually. 
 
 Another interesting church is the Pantheon. It 
 occupies a commanding site not far from the Luxem- 
 bourg, and is of the Gra3co-Roman style of architect- 
 ure. A lofty dome makes it one of the most con- 
 spicuous buildings in Paris. It occupies the site of 
 a very ancient church, which was dedicated to Ste. 
 Genevieve the patron saint of Paris, who was interred 
 
236 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 here in 512. The present edifice was designed by 
 Soufflot, and the foundation-stone was laid by Louis 
 XV., in 1764. It was completed in 1790, and dedi- 
 cated to Ste. Genevieve; but in 1791 the Convention 
 decided to turn it into a Pantheon, and placed upon it 
 the inscription, " Aux grands liommes la patrie recon- 
 naissance." In 1822, the church was restored to its 
 legitimate use ; but the July Eevolution of 1830 
 caused another change, and the obliterated inscription 
 was restored. lit 1853, it once more became the 
 JEJglise Ste. Genevieve, and such it remains. The 
 pediment above the portico contains a fine group of 
 figures by David D'Angers, and the interior contains 
 some fine frescoes. In the vaults, Mirabeau, Marat, 
 Voltaire, and Eousseau were formerly buried ; but 
 their bodies were long since removed. A remarkable 
 echo is heard in the vaults. The dome, which is two 
 hundred and sixty-seven feet above the ground, com- 
 mands* a beautiful view of Paris. Near the Pantheon 
 are the Library of Ste. Genevieve, and the Church of 
 St. Etienne du Mont. 
 
 There are many other churches worthy of a visit ; 
 but I cannot stop to describe them. Among these are 
 St. Sulpice, the richest of the churches on the south 
 bank of the Seine, and containing a large and very 
 fine organ ; St. Vincent de Paul, in the Place Lafayette, 
 a handsome edifice in the Basilica style ; St. Koch, in 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 537 
 
 the Rue St. Honore, where the music is especially 
 fine; and St. Germain l'Auxerrois (near the Louvre), 
 from the tower of which rang forth the preconcerted 
 signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew, on the 
 24th of August, 1572. 
 
238 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FEANCE CONTINUED. 
 
 The Louvre and its Treasures — The Arc de Triomphe du Car- 
 rousel — M. Giffard's Captive Balloon — The Palais Royal — 
 The Hotel des Invalides, and the Tomb of Napoleon — The 
 Veudome Column — The Column of July — The Bibliotheque 
 Nationale — The Grand Opera and the Opera Comique — The 
 Conservatoire de Musique — The Cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise — 
 The Park of the Buttes Chaumont — The Markets — A Peep at 
 the Exposition Universolle — The Exhibition Buildings and the 
 Arrangement of the Grounds — General Characteristics of the 
 Display — Two National Concerts — An Excursion to St. Cloud, 
 Versailles, and Sevres — The Palace of Versailles and its Art 
 Galleries — A Lunch with Mr. Thomas Cook —Leaving Paris — 
 The Railway Journey to Geneva. 
 
 Of all the possessions of Paris, the Museum of the 
 Louvre is the richest. The buildings are of vast 
 extent, covering, with the Tuileries, with which they 
 are connected, an area of twenty-four acres, and they 
 are handsome architecturally. The Louvre was 
 formerly a royal palace, and is said to have derived 
 its name from the fact that wolves formerly abounded 
 in the forest that here skirted the river-bank. An 
 ancient castle stood here, and the present palace dates 
 back to 1541, when it was begun under the direction 
 of Francis L, who removed the older chateau. It 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 239 
 
 was completed in the reign of Henri II., and first 
 occupied by Catherine de Medicis and her son, Charles 
 IX. On the 19th of August, 1572, the marriage of 
 the Princess Margaret of Yalois with the King of 
 Navarre, afterwards Henri IV. of France, took place 
 here ; and five days later, Charles IX. gave the signal 
 for the rimxinsr of the neighboring church-bell which 
 was to precipitate the fearful massacre of St. Bar- 
 tholomew. A window is pointed out from whence 
 the king himself is said to have fired upon the doomed 
 wretches in the street below. Later monarchs enlarged 
 and improved the palace, and it was not until the 
 reign of Napoleon III. that the immense edifice was 
 completed. The old Louvre has been used as a Museum 
 of the Fine Arts since the Revolution of 1789. In 
 1793, the works of art dispersed among the different 
 palaces and chateaux belonging to the crown, were 
 collected here, and the galleries were afterwards 
 greatly enriched by the spoils of the Republican and 
 Imperial armies. Valuable additions to the vast col- 
 lection have been made in recent years. The new 
 Louvre is chiefly occupied by government offices ; but 
 a part of the south wing belongs to the Museum. 
 Both the south and north wings suffered during the 
 brief reign of the Commune, and in the latter, the 
 library of the Louvre, consisting of ninety thousand 
 volumes, and many rare and interesting manuscripts, 
 was destroyed. 
 
240 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 The Museum is, in fact, a consolidation of fifteen 
 different collections. There are miles of galleries 
 lined with sculptures and paintings, many of them by 
 the greatest artists the world has ever known, and 
 months and years might here be spent in profitable 
 study. The ground floor contains sculpture, from 
 the days of the Egyptians and Assyrians down to 
 modern times, and engravings. The first floor is 
 devoted to pictures, antiquities, the Musee Campana, 
 the Musee de la Eenaissance, drawings, and antique 
 bronzes. Upon the second floor are the Musee de 
 Marine, the Musee Ethnographique, and three rooms 
 supplementary to the picture galleries containing 
 Flemish and Dutch pictures. In the Salle de Venus, 
 is seen the famous statue of the Venus of Milo, one 
 of the chief gems of this marvellous collection. This 
 celebrated work of art was dug up on the island of 
 Milo, or Melos, in 1820. There are numerous other 
 masterpieces of sculpture. The galleries of paintings 
 are of great extent, and a mere cursory examination 
 of the chief pictures in the collection would occupy a 
 long time. The Salon Carre contains some of the 
 finest works, such as Murillo's "Assumption" (pur- 
 chased from Marshal Soult's collection for the enor- 
 mous sum of $133,000; ; Paolo Veronese's "Marriage 
 Supper at Cana " ; Eaphael's " Holy Family " ; Titian's 
 "Entombment of Christ" ; Correggio's " St. Catherine " ; 
 and Vandyke's "Charles I. of England." In the 
 
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THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 241 
 
 Grand Gallery, which is nearly a quarter of a mile 
 in length, there some fine specimens of the Italian, 
 Spanish, German, and Dutch schools, a series of large 
 pictures painted by Rubens for Marie de Medicis, and 
 illustrating events in her own life, being included in 
 the latter. The Modern French Gallery contains 
 some noteworthy works by David, Guerin, Gerard, 
 Robert, and other artists. In the Gallerie des Sept 
 Metres, are Raphael's " Johanna of Arragon," and his 
 portrait of himself; Titian's "Francis I."; and Leon- 
 ardo da Vinci's "Virgin in the Sepulchre." The 
 present volume might be filled with an account of the 
 Louvre ; but there are many objects in Paris to be 
 seen, and we must turn our steps towards other 
 places. 
 
 Between the Louvre and the Tuileries extends a 
 vast quadrangle, formed partly by Napoleon I., and 
 partly by Napoleon III. This space is divided into 
 three parts; viz., the Place Napoleon, the Place du 
 Carrousel, and the Cour des Tuileries. In front of 
 the principal entrance to the latter stands the Arc de 
 Triomphe du Carrousel, a structure much inferior to 
 the Arc de l'Etoile, though still handsome and impos- 
 ing. It is forty-seven , feet in height, sixty-three feet 
 in width, and twenty feet in depth. It is surmounted 
 by a chariot and four horses, a group in bronze, de- 
 signed by Bosio, to replace the celebrated horses of 
 Lysippus, with which Napoleon originally adorned the 
 
242 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 arch, but which were restored by the allies in 1814 to 
 their former position over the portal of St. Mark's, in 
 Venice. Within the grounds of the Tuileries, during 
 our visit to Paris, M. Giffard's mammoth balloon was 
 moored. It had not yet begun its public ascents, but 
 several trial-trips to the height of a quarter of a mile 
 or more, were made during our stay. This monster 
 of the air, the largest aerostat ever constructed, held 
 847,598 cubic feet of gas, and cost upwards of $100,- 
 000. Even with its car resting upon the ground the 
 great air-ship loomed above the Tuileries and the 
 Louvre like a gigantic dome, and could be seen for 
 a great distance. It was large enough to lift sixty 
 persons at a time. 
 
 The Palace and Museum of the Luxembourg is sit- 
 uated on the south side of the Seine, in the Faubourg 
 St. Germain. The gardens attached to the palace are 
 quite extensive, and contain some fine fountains and 
 statuary. The palace was commenced by Marie de 
 Medicis, in 1615, and was used as a royal residence 
 until 1800. It was afterwards used by the higher 
 legislative bod}^, and subsequent to the destruction of 
 the Hotel de Ville, a portion of the edifice has been 
 occupied by the Prefect of the Seine. The picture 
 galleries are filled with paintings by living French 
 artists. 
 
 The Palais Eoyal, originally built by Cardinal 
 Kichelieu, and by him presented to Louis XIII., in 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 243 
 
 1629, from which time it was a royal residence, is 
 now, and for many years has been, a mass of shops 
 and cafes. The original structure, which was the 
 scene of the orgies of the Regent, Duke Philip of 
 Orleans, was destroyed by fire after it fell into the 
 possession of Philippe Egalite, who formed the plan 
 of replenishing his exhausted coffers by surrounding 
 the garden with houses and bazaars. A portion of the 
 structure remained a palace, under various designations, 
 as the fortunes of the country changed, and as late as 
 1870 some of the apartments were occupied by Prince 
 Napoleon, a cousin of the late emperor. In 1848, 
 and again in 1871, parts of the palace were destroyed. 
 The shops are built around a quadrangular garden, 
 and present a very brilliant appearance, especially in 
 the evening. The Theatre Frangais is situated at the 
 south-west corner of the Palais Royal, and the Theatre 
 du Palais Royal, one of the lighter class of playhouses, 
 forms one of the attractions of the Palais Royal itself. 
 The Hotel des Invalides, and the Tomb of Napo- 
 leon, are among the chief sights of Paris ; and thither 
 the eye of the stranger is directed early upon his 
 arrival in the city, for the great gilded dome of the 
 Church of the Invalides is one of the most prominent 
 objects to be seen. Soldiers disabled by wounds, and 
 those who have served for thirty years, are entitled to 
 a home in the Hotel des Invalides, and there are ac- 
 commodations for five thousand inmates. The whole 
 
244 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 establishment, which is completely isolated from other 
 buildings, occupies an area of nearly thirty acres, in- 
 cluding the magnificent esplanade along the Seine. 
 This admirable institution was founded in 1670 by 
 Louis XIV. A Musee d'Artillerie, which embraces 
 a very large collection of arms and armor, is one of 
 the features of the hotel. Military mass is celebrated 
 every Sunday at twelve o'clock in the old Church of 
 the Invalides, or the Church of St. Louis, as it is 
 called. The Church of the Dome is upon the other 
 side of a screen, and can be entered only from the 
 other side. The dome lifts its summit 330 feet above 
 the pavement, and directly beneath it is the tomb of 
 Napoleon Bonaparte. This is an open circular crypt, 
 twenty feet in depth and thirty-six feet in diameter, 
 the walls of which are adorned with reliefs in marble, 
 by Simart. There are also twelve colossal figures, 
 by Pradier, emblematic of the victories gained by the 
 emperor. From the centre of the mosaic pavement, 
 which represents a wreath of laurels, rises the sarcoph- 
 agus, six and a half feet wide, and fourteen and a half 
 feet high, consisting of a single block of reddish, pol- 
 ished granite, weighing sixty tons, brought from Lake 
 Ladoga, in Finland, at a cost of 140,000 francs. Two 
 winding granite staircases lead down into the vault, 
 and on either 'side is a sepulchral urn, one being that 
 of Marshal Bertrand, and the other Marshal Duroc's. 
 Over the entrance to the vault are inscribed the fol- 
 
DOME OF THE HOTEL DES IXVALIDES. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 245 
 
 lowing words from the Emperor's will : " Je desire 
 que mes cendres reposent sur les bords de la Seine, au 
 milieu de cepeuple Frangais que fai tant aime" The 
 monuments of Vauban and Turenne, with their recum- 
 bent figures, occupy lofty chapels on each side of 
 Napoleon's tomb, and in other chapels are the tombs 
 of Jerome and Joseph Bonaparte. 
 
 The handsome Ecole Militaire, which covers a large 
 area, and is surmounted by a conspicuous dome, is 
 situated near the Champs de Mars, not far from the 
 Hotel des Invalides. 
 
 On the same side of the river, too, are the Jardin 
 des Plantes, or Museum d'Histoire Naturelle ; the 
 Gobelins manufactory (partly destroyed, with many of 
 its rich treasures of tapestry, in 1871) ; the Palais du 
 Corps Legislatif ; the Palais des Beaux Arts ; the 
 Hotel des Monnaies (or mint) ; the Institut de Prance, 
 and other institutions which demand the attention of 
 the visitor to a greater or lesser extent, but which I 
 will not attempt to describe. / 
 
 Two of the most noteworthy monuments in Paris 
 are the Colonne Vendome, in the Place of the same 
 name, and the Colonne de Juillet, which stands in the 
 Place de la Bastille. The former is in imitation of 
 Trajan's Column at Pome, and is one hundred and 
 forty-four feet in height. It was erected by Napoleon 
 I. , to commemorate his victories over the Kussians and 
 Austrians in 1805, and is constructed of masonry, en- 
 
246 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 crusted with plates of bronze, forming a spiral scroll 
 nearly three hundred yards in length, on which are 
 represented the most memorable scenes of the cam- 
 paign of that year. The metal of twelve hundred 
 Austrian and Russian cannons was used in the con- 
 struction of these plates. A statue of Napoleon, 
 which occupied the summit of the column, was taken 
 down by the Royalists in 1814, and the metal was used 
 in casting the equestrian statue of Henri IV., which 
 now stands on the Pont Neuf. In 1831, Louis Philippe 
 caused a new statue of Napoleon to be erected, and in 
 1863 this was replaced by another. The column was 
 pulled down by the destructive Communists in 1871, 
 but has since been re-erected. The column of July is 
 a bronze monument, of the Corinthian order, rising on 
 a high pedestal, and surmounted by a figure emblemati- 
 cal of Liberty. Six hundred and fifteen citizens, who 
 fell in the Revolution of July, 1830, were placed in a 
 vault beneath this monument, and others who fell in 
 the outbreak of February, 1848, and in the Commu- 
 nist troubles of 1871, have been added to the list. 
 The column itself is seventy-five feet high, and the 
 whole structure has a height of one hundred and sixty- 
 four feet. The Communists tried to destroy this shaft 
 as well as the Vendome Column, but were happily un- 
 successful. The ancient Bastille, which stood here, 
 was destroyed by the insurgents in 1789, and the 
 stones were used to construct the Pont de la Concorde. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 247 
 
 The Canal St. Martin, which is navigable for barges 
 and small steamers, passes under the Place de la Bas- 
 tille, and also under the Boulevard Eichard Lenoir, for 
 nearly its entire length. It communicates with the 
 Canal de l'Ourcq, which connects the river Marne 
 with the north section of the city, where the abattoirs, 
 or slaughter-houses are situated. 
 
 The Place des Victoires contains an equestrian statue 
 of Louis XIV., and in the Place des Vosges, formerly 
 the Place Roy ale, is an equestrian statue of Louis 
 XIII. Both these effigies have suffered from the 
 ravages of war and riot, and have been at least once 
 renewed. In the Place de l'Hotel de Ville, formerly 
 the Place cle Greve, the stake and the scaffold for 
 centuries held sway, and there that terrible instrument, 
 the guillotine, began its deadly work. Many of the 
 public squares of the city are ornamented with hand- 
 some fountains, some of them being very elaborate 
 structures. About midway between the Place des 
 Victoires and the Boulevard Montmartre, is the hand- 
 some temple of the money-changers, the Bourse, and 
 in the same neighborhood is the Bibliotheque Nation- 
 ale, the largest library in the world. This enormous 
 collection contains over three million books, and more 
 than one hundred and fifty thousand manuscripts. 
 There is also in connection with the library a large 
 collection of coins and antiquities. 
 
 The Place du Trone, at the eastern extremity of 
 
248 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Paris, five miles from the Arc de l'Etoile, is like that 
 famous point an important centre in the street system 
 of the city. Twelve different streets radiate therefrom. 
 The square obtained its name from the circumstance 
 that in 1660, after the conclusion of the Peace of the 
 Pyrenees, Louis XIV. received the homage of the cit- 
 izens of Paris on a throne erected here. Two Doric 
 columns, supporting statues of St. Louis and Philippe 
 le Bel, ornament the place. 
 
 There were many opportunities to hear concerts and 
 operas during our visit, for entertainments of all kinds 
 were more numerous during the Exhibition season than 
 ever before. We were a few days late for the Grandes 
 Fetes Musicales of the Orpheonistes, when twenty-two 
 thousand musicians made Paris resound from one 
 extremity to the other with band music ; but we were 
 in time to hear some of the great concerts at the 
 Exhibition by the French singing societies, and also 
 the English concerts by Mr. Henry Leslie's chorus. 
 The chief opera houses, that is, all that remain of 
 them, the Grand Opera and the Opera Comique, were 
 open regularly for the representation of past successes. 
 No manager would take the trouble of producing new 
 works when the town was filled with strangers, and 
 old pieces would serve as well as fresh ones to draw a 
 crowd. The Cafes C/iantants, too, were in full blast, 
 and concerts of a little better grade could be heard at 
 the garden in rear of the Palais de l'lndustrie, formerly 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 249 
 
 known as the Concert Musard. The new Opera House 
 is one of the most magnificent structures of its kind in 
 the world. The new Imperial Opera House at Vienna 
 is said to be the only building that can be compared 
 with it in elegance and richness of appointments. It 
 occupies the centre of an open space, and a straight, 
 broad avenue has lately been opened, leading from the 
 front down towards the Palais Royal and the Louvre. 
 The building is rich in adornments both within and 
 without, and the grand stairway and the grand foyer 
 are both lofty and gorgeous. The building was 
 designed by M. Gamier, and the most famous sculp- 
 tors and painters were employed in its embellishment. 
 Its cost was over seven millions of dollars. In the 
 grand foyer are twenty golden statues personifying the 
 qualities artists should possess, and the ceiling is 
 enriched by the magnificent frescoes of M. Paul 
 Baudry illustrative of the arts and their progress. 
 The auditorium seats about three thousand persons, 
 but fails to carry out the ideas of spaciousness, ele- 
 gance and comfort suggested by the foyers and the 
 great stairway. The stage is the largest in any theatre 
 in the world, and some idea of the grandeur of the 
 performances may be gained, when it is known that 
 dressing-room accommodations are provided for no 
 less than five hundred and thirty-eight persons. The 
 chorus numbers about one hundred, and the orchestra 
 eighty. This is a national opera house and the per- 
 
250 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 formances are therefore in French. The exterior of 
 the building is adorned with groups of statuary, single 
 figures and busts, and the great composers of other 
 countries, as well as those belonging to France, find a 
 place. 
 
 The Opera Comique is situated but a short distance 
 from the Grand Opera, in a building long occupied for 
 the purpose. The Grand Opera receives a govern- 
 ment subsidy of eight hundred and forty thousand 
 francs a year, and the Opera Comique three hundred 
 and sixty thousand francs. Immense sums of money 
 are expended in the mounting of operas, especially at 
 the former house, where, in one case at least, the 
 mise-en-scene of a single opera, "L'Africaine," by 
 Meyerbeer, cost within a fraction of three hundred 
 thousand francs. The preparation of "La Keine de 
 Chypre," an opera by Halevy, a good representation of 
 which I chanced to see, although the leading parts 
 were by no means extraordinarily well sung, cost two 
 hundred and seventy-seven thousand one hundred and 
 seventy-six francs. The government expends large 
 sums of money upon the national dramatic temples, at 
 the head of which stands the Theatre Frangais, as well 
 as upon the lyric houses. There are numerous small 
 theatres not under government patronage, several of 
 which are devoted to light opera or opera bouffe. 
 
 Through the kindness of M. Ambroise Thomas, the 
 director of the Paris Conservatoire de Musique, that 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 251 
 
 interesting institution was thrown open to the inspec- 
 tion of Dr. Tourjee and his companions. This is one 
 of the oldest, as well as one of the largest, of the 
 European schools of music, and likewise one of the 
 best. The Ecole Royale de Chant, upon which the 
 present school had its foundation, was established in 
 1784. There are accommodations for about six hun- 
 dred pupils and auditeurs. The buildings cover a con- 
 siderable portion of the square bounded by the Rue de 
 Faubourg Foissoniere, the Rue Bergere, the Rue de 
 Conservatoire, and the Rue Ste. Cecile. The chief 
 entrance is at No 15, in the Rue de Faubourg Pois- 
 soniere. It is here the principal offices of the school 
 are situated, and it is also the entrance to the small 
 theatre, where the examinations are held and where 
 many of the general lectures and lessons are given. 
 Declamation, as well as music, is taught in the Conser- 
 vatoire. The term of study lasts from the first Mon- 
 day in October until the end of July. The classes are 
 generally larger than in the American music schools, 
 since they sometimes number as many as twelve pupils, 
 and, in addition, candidates are occasionally admitted 
 as auditeurs. Lessons are given three times a week 
 and continue two hours. The celebrated Conservatoire 
 concerts, at which none but the best musicians assist, 
 take place fortnightly from the second Sunday in Jan- 
 uary until into April. The library occupies a large 
 space, and is an important feature. It contains at the 
 
252 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 present time over thirty thousand works, and large 
 additions are made every year. The museum contains 
 many rare instruments, both European and foreign, 
 the collection being much the largest of its'kind in the 
 world. A very interesting catalogue, descriptive of 
 each instrument, was prepared in 1875 by M. Gustave 
 Chouquet, the conservateur. The need of more space 
 for the class-rooms, as well as for the library and 
 museum, has been felt for several years, and new 
 buildings are soon to be erected in accordance with the 
 plans of M. Charles Gamier, the architect of the 
 Grand Opera. Eight millions of francs are to be 
 expended in this work. 
 
 The cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise occupies upwards of 
 two hundred acres, and is crowded with over twenty 
 thousand tombs. Some parts of the enclosure present 
 a neglected appearance, but, in other cases, much 
 taste has been shown in beautifying the grounds and 
 the monuments. Most of the offerings of affection 
 placed upon the graves are tawdry, although some are 
 beautifully wrought of immortelles. At the time of 
 our visit, the tomb of Thiers was literally covered with 
 wreaths and other devices. At the entrance a book is 
 kept, in which the admirers of the departed may sub- 
 scribe their names. The tomb of Easpail was also 
 almost buried beneath wreaths and other memorial de- 
 vices. Here, too, are found the last resting-places of 
 Marshal Ney, Marshal Macdonald, General Foy, and 
 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 253 
 
 General Gobert; Arago, Gay-Lussac, and Laplace; 
 Moliere, Racine, Scribe, Beaumarchais, Lafontaine, 
 Laharpe, Beranger, Delavigne, Delille, and Mine, de 
 Genlis; Cherubini, Chopin, Boieldieu, Herolcl, Mehul, 
 and Pleyel ; Delacroix, Louis David, and Pradier; 
 Talma, Bachel, and Duchesnois ; and many other emi- 
 nent representatives of war, science, literature, music, 
 art, and the stage. In accordance with the last wishes 
 of Chopin, the composer, his heart has been taken to 
 Warsaw (this was but recently done), but his body is 
 interred here. One of the most interesting monu- 
 ments in the cemetery is that of Abelard and Heloise. 
 It consists of a Gothic canopy, formed out of the ruins 
 of the abbey of Paraclete, near Nogent-sur-Saone, of 
 which Abelard was the founder. Beneath the canopy 
 is the sarcophagus, with the figures of the ill-fated 
 pair, which Abelard himself caused to be constructed 
 before his death. The tomb is often decorated with 
 fresh flowers, the offerings of those who regard it* as 
 the shrine of disappointed love. The grave of d'An- 
 toine Augustin Parmentier, the chemist (died 1813), 
 who introduced potato-culture into France, has pota- 
 toes planted upon it in grateful remembrance of his 
 services. The top of the monument erected over the 
 grave of Mme. Blanchard, the aeronaut, who lost her 
 life while discharging fireworks from a balloon in 1819, 
 is made to resemble the top of a balloon. The most 
 
254 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 imposing monument is that to the memory of the 
 Countess Demidoff, who died in 1818. 
 
 There are other large cemeteries at Montmartre and 
 Montparnasse, but they are less interesting than Pere- 
 la-Chaise. The latter cemetery derived its name from 
 la Chaise, the Jesuit confessor of Louis XIV., who had 
 a country residence, called Mont Louis, on the site of 
 the present chapel. Lafayette is buried in a private 
 cemetery in the Eue de'Picpus, Faubourg St. Antoine. 
 
 Not fir from Pere-la-Chaise is the new park of the 
 Buttes Chaumont, the last great work of M. Hauss- 
 mann, to whose enterprise and good taste Paris owes 
 many of its modern improvements and adornments. The 
 gibbet of Montfaucon once stood here, and the place was 
 long a haunt of criminals, who found refuge in the old 
 quarries. The Communists of 1871 made their last 
 stand here, and in the cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise, and 
 many of them were shot near the rear wall. The 
 grounds have been laid out in a very picturesque man- 
 ner, and the former unsightly masses of rock have 
 been converted into objects of beauty. From the 
 summit of the hill a fine view of Paris is to be had. 
 
 The Halles Centrales, the chief market-houses- of 
 Paris, situated on the Place des Innocents, between 
 the Place St. Eustache and the Kue de Rivoli, are 
 well worth a visit, especially in the early morning. 
 The Halle aux Vins, or wine depot, is on the south 
 side of the river, near the Jardin des Plantes. It is 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 255 
 
 very extensive, and fronts upon the Seine for nearly 
 half a mile. There are numerous markets of various 
 kinds in different parts of the city. On certain days 
 of the week, flower markets are held, the chief of 
 these being on Tuesdays and Fridays, near the Church 
 of the Madeleine. 
 
 The International Exposition early claimed our 
 attention ; but. I have purposely deferred mentioning 
 it until the last, for the reason that Paris itself was 
 of chief importance. The Champ de Mars, and the 
 neighboring hill of the Trocadero, were utilized for 
 the exhibition, the main pavilion occupying the greater 
 part of the former, while the heights on the opposite 
 bank of the Seine, were crowned by a large crescent- 
 shaped edifice, which, with its beautiful surroundings, 
 or rather the adornments of the hillside, formed the 
 grandest general feature of the whole. In the centre 
 of the Palace of the Trocadero, as this edifice was 
 denominated, the great concert hall was situated, a 
 noble apartment, similar in shape to the Eoyal Albert 
 Hall in London, and nearly as large. Upon the slope, 
 in front of the hall, were gigantic cascades and foun- 
 tains, and in commanding positions were several colos- 
 sal groups of statuary. The Palace of the Trocadero, 
 was built of stone, being intended for a permanent 
 structure ; but the main building over on the Champ 
 de Mars, like most of its predecessors in all countries 
 since 1851, was an ephemeral creation of iron and 
 
256 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 glass. The shape of this main structure was a paral- 
 lelogram, covering more than half the whole space of 
 the Champ de Mars, with its annexes running out to 
 its boundaries at the Avenues Suflren and de la Bour- 
 donnaye. Other buildings lined the Seine on both 
 sides, and the grounds not thus occupied were con- 
 verted into gardens. Raised towers and domes, also 
 of glass and iron, formed the four corners of the main 
 building, and another occupied the centre upon the 
 side fronting upon the Seine. This formed the main 
 entrance, and stood directly opposite the Palace of 
 Trocadero, and the Bridge of Jena. Upon this west- 
 ern facade were twenty statues, representing different 
 countries, our own nation being symbolized by a 
 colossal figure of Liberty, crowned with a wreath and 
 star, and holding a flag and Roman fasces, with a 
 scroll bearing the word " Constitution." An eagle 
 rested at her feet. Above these statues floated the 
 flags of the countries they represented, and numerous 
 other flags decorated the other sides of the immense 
 structure. The length of this building was twenty- 
 one hundred feet, and its width eleven hundred and 
 forty feet. The fine arts occupied the central portion 
 for the entire length, with the exception of the central 
 place, which was occupied by the pavilion of the city 
 of Paris. A series of spacious and well-lighted 
 apartments were devoted to the different nations, 
 France, of course, claiming the largest space. The 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 257 
 
 general exhibit of France, indeed, occupied one-half 
 the entire pavilion. On one side of the art depart- 
 ment extended the Street of the Nations, bordered 
 on one side by structures supposed to represent the 
 distinctive architecture of the various countries. The 
 area covered by the exhibition buildings aggregated 
 something over forty-two acres, six or seven acres 
 less than were occupied by the buildings at the Phil- 
 adelphia Exposition. The grounds, or general en- 
 closure, were of much less extent than those occupied 
 at Fairmount Park. 
 
 It will be useless to attempt a description of the 
 exhibition itself. The subject is too vast to discuss, 
 except in a general way. The general impression 
 created was that, while in certain departments the 
 Paris Exposition might excel, the aggregate formed 
 no grander display than the exhibition of 1876. 
 There seemed to be a deficiency in some of the qual- 
 ities which gave the Philadelphia display its great 
 excellence. There was not such a general and com- 
 plete showing of the industries of the nations. This 
 remark, however, does not hold good in regard to 
 France, for its display was not only very extensive, 
 but complete in every department, and illustrative, in 
 a marvellous way, of the recuperative powers of the 
 nation. As a whole, its exhibit is said to have been 
 far in advance of its display in 1867, when an inter- 
 national exhibition was held upon the same grounds. 
 
258 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 A bewildering wealth of pictures, statuary, jewelry, 
 silks, velvets, tapestries, furniture, porcelain, and 
 other objects of luxury or utility, filled one-half the 
 great exhibition palace. As the visitor entered the 
 building at the end nearest the Seine, the great mass 
 of state jewels flashed upon him from a small pavilion 
 which was constantly guarded by gens (Tarmes. 
 These jewels are worth nearly thirty million francs, 
 and formerly belonged to the regal crown. In 1792, 
 the Constituent Assembly ordered an inventory to be 
 made of them, and that task had hardly been com- 
 pleted, when forty thieves entered the house and 
 carried them off. Although some of the rogues were 
 captured, the jewels were not recovered until their 
 hiding-place was divulged by a hair-dresser, who, 
 while in prison under sentence of death for counter- 
 feiting, overheard some other prisoners talking about 
 the affair. The French jewelry department also 
 contained vast stores of precious stones of all kinds. 
 Count Braninsk's famous sapphire, valued at two mil- 
 lion five hundred thousand francs, was in the collec- 
 tion ; and so was a full set of sapphires and diamonds, 
 which an American lady had just purchased for eight 
 hundred and fifty thousand francs. Diamond lace, 
 worth eighteen thousand francs a yard, was shown, 
 together with gems of every kind. 
 
 Next in extent to the French section was the Brit- 
 ish, and its most prominent feature was formed by the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 259 
 
 immense collection of costly gifts received by the 
 Prince of Wales during his visit to India. Among 
 these objects could be seen a camel's-hair shawl valued 
 at six thousand pounds, and a sabre, the hilt of which 
 contained diamonds valued at twenty thousand pounds. 
 In all the departments of art and manufactures Eng- 
 land made an extensive display. Italy was seen most 
 favorably in her objects of art. Austria made a good 
 display, though a less important one than in previous 
 exhibitions. Germany was conspicuous by its ab- 
 sence. The United States section was small, but 
 it contained some of the greatest wonders of the fair, 
 especially in the machinery department, and in the 
 end carried off many of the chief prizes. Eussia, 
 Sweden, Norway, and Denmark made noble exhibits ; 
 and so did Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, 
 Portugal, and other nations. China and Japan were 
 also handsomely represented, but Turkey and Egypt 
 were absent. The British Colonies made no such 
 grand display as was seen in their departments at 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 The fine arts collection was doubtless better, as a 
 whole, than the one embraced in the American Exhi- 
 bition, but it is said to have fallen below that of 1867. 
 There were many fine paintings, and some noble 
 specimens of the sculptor's art ; and it is very grati- 
 fying to national pride to record that American paint- 
 ers sustained themselves and the honor of their coun- 
 
260 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 try with conspicuous credit. In certain departments 
 of antique art there was a wondrous display in the 
 Troeadero Palace. The collection of Gobelin and 
 other tapestries was never surpassed. 
 
 On the first day of our visit to the Exposition there 
 chanced to be ail English concert in the great hall of 
 the Trocadero Palace. It was given by Mr. Henry 
 Leslie's choir, with Mrs. Mudie Bolingbroke, Miss De 
 Fonblanque, the two Misses Robertson, and Messrs. 
 Joseph Maas, Barton McGuckin, and Wadmore as solo 
 singers. Mr. John C. Ward was the organist, Mr. J. 
 G. Callcott the pianist, and Mr. Leslie conducted the 
 choral pieces, which were fifteen in number. The 
 singing was very creditable, though in no instance 
 was it so in any extraordinary degree. The selections 
 were chiefly old glees and modern part-songs, with 
 one or two solos from oratorios, one of which, "Haste, 
 Israel, haste," from Handel's "Joshua," was finely 
 sung by Mr. Maas, the tenor, who is well known in 
 America. A trio by Jvandcgger was accompanied by 
 the composer upon the pianoforte. The organ had but 
 recently been opened and did not seem to be in the 
 best condition. On another occasion it was heard to . 
 much better advantage. The instrument was built 
 expressly for the Exposition by M. Cavaille-Coll, and 
 contains four thousand and eighty pipes and seventy- 
 two stops. The attendance at this concert was com- 
 paratively small ; and no wonder. The admission fee 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 261 
 
 was from two to five times as much as to the entire 
 exhibition outside the concert. 
 
 Three days later, Sunday, July 21, I attended the 
 first grand concours of the French singing societies. 
 The admission was only one franc, and the great 
 hall was crowded. There was a male chorus of two 
 thousand voices, under the direction 6f M. Edouard 
 Colonne, and the magnificent band of the Garde 
 Republicaine, so favorably known in America, served 
 as an orchestra. The chorus was quite well balanced, 
 or at least the several parts were all heard to good ad- 
 vantage from the upper gallery, the only place in the 
 whole house where a late comer could find even stand- 
 ing room, and the unity and precision were something 
 remarkable. The programme was wholly national, 
 the selections being Boulanger's " Lever du jour ; " 
 "Nos Peres," by Bourgault-Ducoudray ; "La Saint- 
 Julien," by Semet; "Les Fils d'Egypte," by Lau- 
 rent de Rille ; Felicien David's " Chaut du Soir ; " 
 "La Cour des Miracles," by Leo Delibes ; "Le Ty- 
 rol," by Ambroise Thomas ; and Gounod's familiar 
 Chceur des Soldats, from "Faust." The band played 
 one or two pieces in addition. The enthusiasm of the 
 audience was intense, and fully two-thirds of the 
 numbers on the programme were encored, The high- 
 est pitch of popular excitement was reached, however, 
 when M. Gounod himself came forward to conduct his 
 Soldiers' Chorus. He was greeted with cheer upon 
 
262 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 cheer by both audience and chorus, and the enthusi- 
 asm broke out afresh at the conclusion of the perform- 
 ance, which was one of the most spirited given during 
 the whole concert. A second rendering elicited 
 nearly as much applause. 
 
 Our party availed itself of Messrs. Cook & Son's 
 "four-in-hand excursions" during several days, and 
 thus visited many of the places already mentioned in 
 these pages. We also passed a day in an excursion to 
 St. Cloud and Versailles. We rode out through the 
 Bois de Boulogne, and soon after passing the famous 
 park, crossed the river Seine into the village of St. 
 Cloud, obtaining, before reaching there, a fine view of 
 Mont Valerien, on the summit of which one of the 
 strongest and most important of the chain of forts sur- 
 rounding Paris is situated. The Palace of St. Cloud 
 is now a mass of ruins, having been burned in Octo- 
 ber, 1870, but whether by the French artillerists sta- 
 tioned on Mont Valerien, or by the Germans who 
 occupied the town, is an open question. St. Cloud 
 was originally the country-seat of Francis I. The 
 palace was erected in 1572 by a wealthy citizen, and 
 in 1658 it was rebuilt by Louis XIV., and by that 
 monarch presented to his brother, the Duke of Or- 
 leans. In 1782 it was purchased by Louis XVI. for 
 Marie Antoinette. The Council of Five Hundred met 
 here, and on the 9th of November, 1799, Bonaparte 
 dispersed the assembly. On the 3d of July, 1815, the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 263 
 
 second capitulation of Paris was signed here, Blucher 
 having established his headquarters at the chateau. 
 Here, too, on the 25th of July, 1830, Charles X. signed 
 the famous proclamations abolishing the freedom of 
 the press, dissolving the Chambers, and altering the 
 law of elections, which precipitated the revolution of 
 July. St. Cloud was the principal summer residence 
 of Napoleon III., and in 1855 sheltered Queen Victo- 
 ria on her visit to Paris. The park and gardens are 
 very fine, and the former contains some grand old 
 trees. The beautiful fountains were preserved in part, 
 and now play on certain days for the pleasure of the 
 Parisians, who visit St. Cloud in great numbers on 
 such occasions. 
 
 From St. Cloud we continued our ride through the 
 forest of Ville d'Avray to Versailles. Although Ver- 
 sailles is a city of over sixty thousand inhabitants, it 
 contains little beyond its great palace and noble park 
 to interest the stranger. We went first to the Grand 
 Trianon, a villa erected by Louis XIV. for Madame 
 de Maintenon. This edifice contains several richly- 
 furnished apartments, one of which, the Salle de Mala- 
 chite, derives its name from a magnificent malachite 
 vase presented by the Emperor of Eussia to Napoleon 
 I. It was in this edifice that the trial of Marshal Ba- 
 zaine was held. The Petit Trianon, built by Louis 
 XV. for Madame Dubarry, and once a favorite resort 
 of Marie Antoinette, is situated not far distant from 
 
264 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the other, and between them is the Musee des Voitures, 
 containing several gorgeous state carriages, including 
 the bridal carriages of both Napoleon I. and Napoleon 
 III., and the coronation-coach of Charles X., which is 
 said to have cost a million francs. 
 
 After lunching at a restaurant in the town, we pro- 
 ceeded to the palace. The palace court contains a 
 colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV., in bronze, and 
 sixteen other statues, including those of Bayard, Col- 
 bert, Cardinal Richelieu, Marshal Turenne, Sully, Ad- 
 miral Duquesne, and Conde. The palace was origi- 
 nally a hunting-lodge of Louis XIII. It was converted 
 into a magnificent royal residence by Louis XIV. in ac- 
 cordance with designs by the architect, Mansard, and 
 was completed in 1681. The king died here in 1750, 
 and Louis XV. was born here, and died here also. 
 Louis XVI. resided here until 1789, when he was re- 
 moved by force to Paris. In 1795 the palace became 
 a manufactory of arms. In 1815 it was pillaged by 
 the Prussians. Louis XVIII., Charles X., and Louis 
 Philippe occupied it, and from September, 18*70, until 
 March, 1871, it was the headquarters of the Prussians, 
 a large part of the edifice being converted into a hos- 
 pital. At this period the pictures were covered, and 
 carefully preserved from injury. On the 18th of Jan- 
 uary, 1871, King William of Prussia was here crowned 
 Emperor of Germany, and a few months later, whilst 
 Paris was in the hands of the Commune, Versailles be- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 265 
 
 came the seat of the new French Kepublican Govern- 
 ment. A portion of the palace is still occupied by the 
 Senate and Chamber of Deputies. 
 
 The Musee Historique, which occupies an almost 
 interminable suite of apartments, and is nearly as ex- 
 tensive as the Louvre, was founded by Louis Philippe. 
 These galleries are filled chiefly with modern pictures, 
 but in furtherance of the plan to make the collection 
 historical, many old paintings have been received from 
 the Louvre and elsewhere. Some of the works are of 
 an inferior order of merit, but others are the produc- 
 tions of genius, and the collection, as a whole, is in- 
 tensely interesting. There are some five miles of pic- 
 tures, and to simply walk through the whole suite of 
 apartments, without stopping, would occupy an hour 
 and a quarter. Since the recent occupation of the 
 palace for governmental purposes, many of the apart- 
 ments have been closed to the public ; but enough re- 
 main open to afford a good idea of the vastness of the 
 collection, and of its character. In one suite of rooms 
 are pictures illustrative of events during the Crusades ; 
 in another a magnificent series of Algerian scenes, 
 by Horace Vernet, which form some of the chief 
 gems of the collection ; the -Galerie des Batailles, a 
 spacious hall, in two compartments, contains some 
 large pictures by Horace Vernet, Ary Scheffer, 
 Couder, and others, in which battle-scenes where 
 French warriors have distinguished themselves are de- 
 
2QQ A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 picted ; and there are many rooms filled with portraits. 
 In a room devoted to portraits of celebrated soldiers 
 who afterwards became emperors, kings, marshals, 
 &c, represented according to the rank they held in 
 1792, may be seen "Bonaparte, Lieutenant-Colonel;" 
 "Murat, Sous-Lieutenant ;" &c. In the Galerie des 
 Portraits de Personages Celebres is a collection of 
 American portraits, headed by Washington. In the 
 Galerie des Batailles is a picture by Couder, of the 
 Siege of Yorktown, in which Rochambeau and Wash- 
 ington are depicted, the former being made to appear 
 the chief personage. There are many representations 
 of the great Napoleon in battle-scenes and portraits, 
 and in one of the halls is a fine statue, by Vela. The 
 Salon des Glaces is a gorgeously decorated apartment, 
 two hundred and forty feet long, thirty-five feet wide, 
 and forty-five feet high, where many grand fetes have 
 taken place, the last having been a state ball, given 
 since the close of the Exposition, by President Mac- 
 Mahon. The ceilings of this apartment are covered 
 with frescoes intended to glorify Louis XIV. . Con- 
 nected with this noble hall are the apartments of 
 Louis XIV. , and in the south wing are the sleeping- 
 room and drawing-room of Marie Antoinette. The 
 magnificent gardens are situated in rear of the palace, 
 and contain several ornamental sheets of water, 
 together with fountains and statues. The fountains 
 play on certain days during the summer, generally on 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 267 
 
 the first Sunday of the month, and the exhibition, 
 which is said to cost ten thousand francs every time it 
 is repeated, attracts crowds of people. 
 
 We returned from Versailles to Paris via Viroflay, 
 Chaville, and Sevres, stopping for a brief time in the 
 latter place to make a hurried inspection of the porce- 
 lain manufactory. The villages on this side of Paris 
 suffered greatly during the siege. Near Sevres is 
 pointed out the building where Prince Bismark and M. 
 Jules Favre held their interview preparatory to the 
 armistice of 1871. 
 
 On one of our rides about Paris we stopped at 
 Messrs. Cook & Son's boarding-house to partake of 
 lunch with Mr. Thomas Cook, the senior member of 
 the firm, who made his home in Paris during the Ex- 
 position season. The members of Mr. Bruce's divi- 
 sion were also invited, and thus the number of Amer- 
 ican visitors was made between sixty and seventy. 
 We were greeted very cordially by Mr. Cook, and a 
 delightful hour was passed, after the lunch, in listening 
 to remarks from him and from several members of our 
 own party. Divine grace was invoked by Rev. P. M. 
 Macdonald, of Boston. At the conclusion of the re- 
 past, Dr. Tourjee, in a few pleasant words expressive 
 of the happiness felt by himself and companions, both 
 in meeting Mr. Cook, and in consequence of the hand- 
 some manner in which they had been entertained at 
 
268 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the Hotel Bedford, introduced Mr. Bruce, of the 
 American party. 
 
 Mr. Bruce expressed the thanks of the party for the 
 hospitable manner in which the visitors had been 
 entertained, and also for the other attentions which 
 had been shown during the pleasant sojourn in Paris. 
 In the provisions made for their comfort find pleasure, 
 there was compensation for any previous omissions. 
 While again thanking their host, he tendered the hope 
 that the gentleman referred to might long remain the 
 " Chief Cook." 
 
 Mr. Cook replied in a. speech full of good feeling, 
 and in the course of his remarks alluded to the growth 
 of the excursion business managed by his firm, and to 
 the patronage which the Americans were bestowing 
 upon it in their travels through Europe. Five years 
 before, a party of one hundred and forty-eight Amer- 
 icans, one of whom was Mr. Bruce, had visited Europe. 
 He regretted that he had been unable, in the present 
 instance, to personally arrange the details of the tour, 
 and to accompany the different divisions over a part of 
 the route at least, as he had clone in the previous in- 
 stance. Had he not been tied to Paris by other re- 
 sponsibilities, he would have personally met them on 
 their landing in Scotland. He complimented Dr. Tour- 
 jee very warmly for having brought so large and so 
 respectable a body of travellers from America, and 
 expressed the hope that all might realize their fullest 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 269 
 
 anticipations in the tour before them. Incidentally, 
 Mr. Cook gave a brief sketch of the rise of the excur- 
 sion business, which had been begun in 1851 by taking 
 three thousand children to the London Exhibition. 
 Since that time six millions of travellers had journeyed 
 under the auspices of his firm. 
 
 Mr. M. A. Eoot, of Bay City, Mich. , spoke of the 
 broadening influences of foreign travel, and of the 
 many good results which were sure to follow a more 
 general intermingling of the nations of the earth. 
 Many prejudices were swept away by travel, and this 
 better understanding of each other would assist the 
 nations in bringing about a common fellowship, when 
 war and strife shall be no more, and when all shall be 
 united as one people, and, perhaps, by the bonds of a 
 common language. 
 
 Mr. E. Eeignard, proprietor of the excellent Hotel 
 Bedford, which we made our home while in Paris, was 
 also called upon for a speech, and took occasion to 
 compliment his American guests. 
 
 In conclusion, the party united in singing "Old 
 Hundred," and we then continued our ride homeward, 
 visiting, on the way, the celebrated Panorama, on the 
 Champs Ely sees, of which the " Siege of Paris," ex- 
 hibited in Philadelphia during the Exhibition of 1876, 
 and latterly in Boston, is a copy. 
 
 Tuesday evening, July 23, was the time fixed upon 
 for our departure for Geneva. Mr. Brace's division 
 
270 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 had preceded us Monday evening. At the appointed 
 hour we reluctantly turned our backs upon the beauti- 
 ful city of Paris — that is, those of us who were not 
 compelled to take our places in the train the other way, 
 — and sped onward towards Switzerland. Our route 
 was over the Lyons Eailway, but the greater part of 
 our journey was performed in the night, and conse- 
 quently we saw but little of Fontainebleau, a place so 
 intimately associated with the careers of some of the 
 greatest monarchs of France, and also with some of its 
 darkest pages of history; of the old town of Sens, 
 where Abelard was condemned in 1140 ; of Dijon, the 
 capital of ancient Burgundy, and the former seat of 
 the powerful princes of Concle ; of Beaune ; of the 
 quaint little towns in the Burgundian wine districts ; 
 of Chalons-sur-Saone, where Abelard died in 1142; 
 nor yet of Macon, where we found ourselves fatigued, 
 and still sleepy, at an early hour in the morning. The 
 remainder of our journey — some four or five hours — 
 was more interesting, or, at least, we had better oppor- 
 tunities to see what there was to see. We were ap- 
 proaching the Jura Mountains, the outlying range 
 which ushers the traveller into the presence of the 
 nobler Alps, and as the train made its way over its 
 more tortuous line among these lesser hills, there were 
 many beautiful bits of scenery opened to view. We 
 passed through Bourg, Amberieux, and Culoz, the 
 latter being the point of divergence for the Italian line 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 271 
 
 which runs through the Mont Cenis Tunnel, and also 
 for a line to Chambery and Aix-les-Bains, and near 
 the frontier town of Bellegarde, passed out of French 
 territory into Switzerland. Near Bellegarde is the 
 Perte de Rhone, a rocky chasm in which the river 
 Rhone is lost. The railway-route through the Jura 
 Mountains was constructed at great expense. There 
 is a costly viaduct near Bellegarde, and near it is the 
 Credo Tunnel, which is two and a half miles in length. 
 
272 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER VH. 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 Entering the Country of Lakes and. Mountains — Geneva and its 
 Charming Situation — Its Interesting Features — An Organ 
 Concert at the Cathedral — Lake Leman — Lausanne — The 
 Castle of Chillon — Fribourg — Its Famous Organ and a Con- 
 cert thereon — Bern — Another Organ Concert — Market Day 
 and the Peasantry — Thun and its Beautiful Lake — The Bodeli 
 Railway — Interlaken — The Jungfrau — Lauterbrunnen and 
 the Fall of the Staubbach — Grindenwald and its Glaciers— A 
 New Way to Repulse Clamorous Guides— An Effectual Dis- 
 charge of "Greek Fire" — The Alpine Horn — The Lake of 
 Brienz and the Falls of the Geissbach — Swiss Music — The 
 Brunig Pass — An Ascent of the Rigi — Suuset and Sunrise as 
 seen from the Summit — Excursion on the Lake of the Four 
 Cantons — William Tell — Lucerne and its Quaint Bridges — 
 More Organ Music — The Inevitable " Storm-piece" — Zurich — 
 Schaffhausen and the Falls of the Rhine. 
 
 Geneva is one of the three principal points at which 
 most American and English tourists enter Switzerland, 
 Basle and Lindau being the others. To enter this 
 beautiful country from the north, and then approach 
 the lofty peaks of the Oberland and the Savoy Alps 
 gradually, gaining thus inspiration and enjoyment from 
 contemplating the less rugged forms of nature before 
 the eye has feasted and become satiated with the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 273 
 
 grander features of scenery, is the preferable course ; 
 although at Geneva the traveller finds himself charmed 
 beyond measure, not only by the prospect of towering 
 mountains, with the proud, white brow of Mont Blanc 
 lifted above them all, but by the rare scenes of simpler 
 beauty lying all around. Edward King, in one of his 
 graphic letters to "The Boston Journal," has said : — 
 
 "Geneva, after Paris, is like sleep after a battle. Here 
 are no rushes of unsympathetic and brawling crowds ; no 
 acres of pictures and curiosities to see ; no constant search 
 after a happiness which forever flies before one. Among 
 these immemorial mountains one finds profoundest peace. 
 Now and then Mont Blanc is seen for an instant when the 
 clouds move away, and the mighty monarch seems to say to 
 all, Repose. The coot breezes, the ripple of the lake, and 
 the murmurs of the Rhone are full of perfume and music 
 for him who has fled the streets of a great capital." 
 
 Lying at one extremity of Lake Leman, the largest 
 body of water in this country of lakes and mountains, 
 surrounded on all sides by scenes of surpassing loveli- 
 ness, and watched over from afar by the loftiest Alpine 
 peak, Geneva has one of the most beautiful situations 
 of any city in the world. Alexandre Dumas describes 
 Geneva in glowing words. "It is," says he, "after 
 Naples, one of the most charming cities of all the 
 world. Idly lying as she does, supporting her head 
 on the base of Mount Saleve, extending to the lake 
 
274 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 her feet that each wave comes to kiss, she seems to 
 have nothing to do but to lovingly regard her thousand 
 villas, spread upon the sides of the snowy mountains 
 which extend to her right, or crowning the verdant 
 hills which stretch to her left. At a sign from her 
 hand she beholds running on the vaporous level of the 
 lake, her light barks with triangular sails that glisten 
 on the surface of the water, white and swift like goe- 
 lands, and her heavy steamboats, which chase the 
 foam with throbbing breasts. Under a beautiful 
 heaven, in the presence of such fine waters, it would 
 seem that her arms are useless to her, and that she 
 needs but breathe to live. And yet this nonchalant 
 odalisque, this apparently idle sultana, is the commer- 
 cial Geneva, who counts two hundred millionaires 
 among her fifty thousand inhabitants." 
 
 Although Geneva emancipated herself politically 
 from France in 1814, she is almost wholly environed 
 by its territory ; whilst her language, customs and 
 every aspect are thoroughly French. Her architecture 
 has nothing distinctively Swiss about it, and her 
 workmen wear blue blouses. French cafes and shops 
 are upon the chief thoroughfares, or upon the quays, 
 which, with the charming gardens by the lakeside, and 
 the handsome bridges thrown across the "arrowy 
 Rhone," form the principal promenades at evening; 
 and down by the river are the lavoirs of the washer- 
 women, just as we find them along the Seine in Paris. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 275 
 
 Mediaeval Geneva is chiefly upon the hill, and is made 
 up of quaint old houses and narrow winding streets ; 
 the modern city is mostly upon the borders of the 
 lake. The home of the tourist is at some one of the 
 numerous large hotels which line the quays or • front 
 upon the Jardin du Lac, or the English Garden, as it 
 is also called. Geneva is always full of English and 
 American tourists, and an English newspaper (edited 
 by a Bostonian) is published here. 
 
 Our division was quartered at the Hotel du Lac, and 
 Mr. Bruce's party was at the Grand Hotel de Kussie 
 upon the other side of the river. Some of the later 
 visitors were sent to the Grand Hotel de la Metropole. 
 All these hotels seem to have given full satisfaction to 
 their guests ; and here, let me remark, the Swiss 
 hotels, both large and small, have about them, gener- 
 ally speaking, an air of cleanliness, comfort and quiet, 
 greatly conducive to the enjoyment of travelling. 
 
 Geneva is a Protestant city, and long has been so ; 
 here John Calvin found a refuge when he fled from 
 France, and here he developed his greatest power. 
 Once this "Babel of Calvinism," this "nursing mother 
 of heretical plots," as St. Francis de Sales was pleased 
 to term it, narrowly escaped being delivered back to 
 Catholic domination. On the night of December 11th, 
 1602, a detachment from the army of Charles Emman- 
 uel, Duke of Savoy, attempted to gain possession of 
 Geneva, and would have scaled the wall of the Corra- 
 
276 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 terie, but for the bravery of some of the citizens. 
 The invaders were carrying all before them, when Jean 
 Mercier, one of the guards of the Porte Neuve, cut 
 the cord of the portcullis at the very moment a Savoy- 
 ard engineer was applying the petard to the gate. A 
 lucky cannon-shot swept away the scaling-ladders 
 placed against the walls, and the Savoyard party be- 
 came demoralized. Their leader, Brunalien, was 
 slain, and seventeen of his men were taken prisoners. 
 Meanwhile the main army, under D'Albigny, mistak- 
 ing the discharge of the cannon for the explosion of 
 the petard, the preconcerted signal for the attack, 
 marched up to the Porte Neuve to find the gate closed 
 and to receive a shower of shot which threw the 
 Savoyard ranks into utter confusion and retreat. A 
 fountain commemorates this event, and there is annu- 
 ally a fete of the Escalade, which is an extravagant 
 sort of merry-making in the nature of a carnival. 
 
 Jean Jacques Rousseau was born here, and his statue 
 ornaments a little island in the river. Necker, the 
 minister of Louis XVI. , and his daughter, Madame de 
 Stael, were also born in Geneva; and so were De 
 Saussure, Charles Bonnet, De Candolle, and other cele- 
 brated savants. Voltaire founded the little town of 
 Fernex, near Geneva, and Byron for a time lived 
 on the opposite bank of the lake, in a suburb of 
 Geneva. Calvin lived in Geneva from 1536 until his 
 death in 1564, and the house he occupied was in the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 277 
 
 Rue des Chanoines. He was buried in the cemetery 
 of Plainpalais, but precisely where his body now rests 
 is not known, as he expressly forbade that any monu- 
 ment should be erected to him. A chair which 
 belonged to the great reformer is preserved in the 
 cathedral. 
 
 The Cathedral of St. Pierre was completed in 1024 
 by the Emperor Conrad II., but has been greatly 
 changed in appearance since that time. It contains 
 some interesting monuments, some handsome stained- 
 glass windows, and a fine organ. Near at hand is the 
 Hotel de Ville, an ancient edifice in the Florentine 
 style, chiefly remarkable for an inclined paved way 
 leading to the upper stories, and up which the coun- 
 cillors in ancient times were conveyed on horseback 
 or in chairs. The building contains the cantonal and 
 municipal offices, and in one of its rooms the Alabama 
 Claims Commission held its deliberations. This fact 
 is duly set forth upon a wall-tablet. 
 
 The University Building is a handsome edifice near 
 the Botanic Garden. It was erected some ten years 
 since by the city and canton, and contains a fine 
 library and a valuable museum of natural history. The 
 library was founded by Bonivard, the famed prisoner of 
 Chillon. Near the University arc two art museums, 
 the Musee Eath and the Athenee, both of which were 
 presented by women. The former was founded by the 
 Russian general Rath, a native of Geneva, and given 
 
278 A SUMMEK JAUNT 
 
 to the city by bis sisters ; and the Athenee was pre- 
 sented to the Societe des Beaux Arts. The Musee Fol 
 is a collection of Greek and Etruscan antiquities. 
 
 Upon one side of the Place Neuve, upon which the 
 Musee Rath, and both the old and new theatres are 
 situated, and near which are also the University and 
 the new Palais Electoral, stands the Conservatoire de 
 Musique, a comparatively small, but substantial and 
 conveniently arranged building. The Conservatoire 
 was founded in 1852 through the munificence of a 
 liberal-spirited citizen, M. Francois Bartholony, and 
 the present edifice was erected in 1858. 
 
 The old theatre (erected in 1782, after the Calvin- 
 istic opposition to dramatic performances had ceased 
 in a great degree) is soon to be superseded by an 
 elegant new play-house, which is being erected with 
 some of the money left to the city by the late Duke of 
 Brunswick. A costly monument to the Duke is also 
 being erected on the Place des Alpes. 
 
 On the south bank of the Rhone, and near the lake, 
 is a handsome monument commemorating the union of 
 Geneva with the Swiss Confederation, which occurred 
 in 1814. It is in the form of a bronze group, by 
 Dorer, rep resenting two female figures, Geneva and 
 Helvetia. Within the Jardin Anglais is a kiosque 
 containing an interesting representation in relief of 
 Mont Blanc and the surrounding region. 
 
 Geneva contains a Russian church, as well as an 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 279 
 
 English place of worship. The interior of the former 
 is elegantly finished in marble. 
 
 The manufacture of watches and music-boxes con- 
 stitutes the chief industry of Geneva, and the city is 
 also a great market for carved woodwork. The 
 principal shops where watches and jewelry are sold 
 are fitted up with Parisian taste and elegance, and as 
 they are kept open until nine o'clock, and brilliantly 
 lighted, an evening stroll along the quays, where most 
 of them are situated, is one of the delights of a visit 
 to this charming city. 
 
 On one of the evenings of our stay in Geneva our 
 party attended an organ concert given at the Cathedral 
 by M. Haering. This concert, and several others on 
 the great organs at Fribourg, Bern, and Lucerne, 
 were provided by Dr. Tourjee in compliment to his 
 companions ; and arrangements were made by him for 
 their repetition on the visits of the several divisions. 
 A printed programme was provided, which announced 
 the concert in the following words : — 
 
 St. Peter's Cathedral. 
 
 Grand Organ Concert by M. Haering, Organist of the Cathedral, on the 
 
 visit of Dr. Tourjee 's American Party to Geneva, July 24, 1878. 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 1. Fantasie, Toepfer. 
 
 2. Air du Stabat Mater, Kossiui. 
 
 3. Pastorale : 
 
 a Ranz cles Vaches, ...... Air National. 
 
 b Reverie, Schumann. 
 
 c Meditation, Gounod. 
 
 d Priere, ........ Lef6bure. 
 
 4. Cavatine, Meyerbeer. 
 
 5. a Improvisation, Haering. 
 
 b Finale (Lohengrin), R. Wagner. 
 
280 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 The organ is an exceedingly good one, and the 
 organist brought out some very grand effects in imita- 
 tion of a storm in the llanz des Vaches, the perform- 
 ance proving all the more effective from the fact that 
 the Cathedral was very dimly lighted. A few weak 
 lamps only served to make the darkness more visible, 
 and to aid the imagination in picturing mountain crags 
 and other stupendous forms from the dim arches and 
 monuments. 
 
 Our journey from Geneva to Ouchy, the port of 
 Lausanne, was performed on one of the comfortable 
 little steamers which serve for both excursions and 
 regular traffic over the lovely waters of Lake Leman, 
 or the Lake of Geneva, as it is also known. This is 
 the largest lake in Switzerland, although its superi- 
 ority in size over Lake Constance is very slight — 
 some fifteen square miles. The area of Lake Leman 
 is about two hundred and twenty-five square miles, 
 and it is of crescent shape, with its horns turned 
 southward. The easterly horn formerly extended 
 nine miles further towards Bex, but the deposit 
 brought down from the mountains by the Rhone has 
 gradually filled that part of the lake. The northern 
 shore is fifty -five miles in length, and the southern 
 shore forty-eight and a half miles ; and the lake is 
 about nine miles wide in its broadest part. The 
 waters of Lake Leman differ from those of the other 
 Swiss lakes, inasmuch as they are deep blue in color, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 281 
 
 while the other lakes are of a greenish hue. The 
 view of Geneva and its surroundings from the lake is 
 very beautiful. Upon either bank are picturesque 
 villas, most of these abodes of wealth and luxury 
 being upon the westerly side, however, as they com- 
 mand a better view. The water is dotted with pleas- 
 ure craft, the graceful lateen-sail seen upon the Med- 
 iterranean and the Scottish lakes being used here also. 
 The house occupied by Byron is pointed out, and at 
 Pregny is the chateau of Baron Adolf Eothschild. 
 Mont Blanc should have been seen, but persistently 
 kept his lofty brow veiled in clouds. Out on the 
 broader part of the lake, the southern shore presents 
 bolder features, the background being formed by 
 masses of rugged mountains ; while on the northern 
 shore, the more graceful slopes are rich in vineyards. 
 At Coppet, a chateau where Necker and his daughter, 
 Madame de Stael, resided, is seen; and uear Nyon is 
 a handsome chateau formerly occupied by Bonaparte. 
 The Dole, one of the most conspicuous summits of 
 the Jura Mountains, rises in rear of Nyon. At Rolle, 
 Laharpe, the tutor of Alexander I. of Russia, was 
 born, and a monument to his memory has been erected 
 upon a little island near the shore. At Nyon and 
 Morges some ancient castles are seen. At the end of 
 a three hours' sail we disembark at Ouchy and proceed 
 up the steep, zigzag streets in omnibuses, to the 
 quaint old city of Lausanne. 
 
282 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Lausanne is situated on many levels, partly on the 
 edge of three hills, shoulders of the Jorat, and partly in 
 the gorges opening at their feet. Streets, terraces, 
 and lanes mount, cross, and descend in a most fantas- 
 tic manner. In one place a stately bridge crosses a 
 ravine, and in another a street burrows beneath a hill. 
 Upon one eminence stands an old castle, and at an- 
 other level is the Cathedral. This latter edifice was 
 erected in the thirteenth century. It was conse- 
 crated by Gregory X. in the presence of Rudolph, of 
 Hapsburg, and within its walls, in 1536, took place 
 the famous disputation in which Calvin, Farel, and 
 Viret participated, and which resulted in the removal 
 of the Episcopal See to Fribourg, the separation of 
 Yaud from the Romish Church, and the suppression of 
 the supremacy of Savoy. Some of the ancient adorn- 
 ments of the church are missing, but the edifice 
 contains some old monuments. Deep in the stone 
 pavement is a cavity, said to have been made by the 
 faithful of past centuries in kneeling before the figure 
 of the Virgin Mary. For a year or two past the 
 church has been undergoing restoration. A terrace 
 near the church commands a fine view of the city, of 
 the lake, and of the noble peaks of the Savoy Alps 
 beyond. During our stay at Lausanne, our head- 
 quarters were at the Hotel Gibbon, from the terrace of 
 which there was a most glorious view at sunset, the 
 Dent d'Oche, and the other high summits across the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 283 
 
 blue waters, being suffused with a roseate flush as the 
 God of Day sank into his golden bed. It was here 
 that Gibbon finished his history of Rome, and the very 
 nook in the garden of the- hotel is pointed out where 
 the great author did much of his work. It is an in- 
 spiring spot, better fitted for day-dreaming, however, 
 than for such matter-of-fact labor. Aside from the 
 Cathedral, and the handsome Pont-Pichard which leads 
 from one part of the town to another, there is little in 
 Lausanne of interest to the chance visitor, except the 
 glorious view, which, of itself, is enough to make the 
 place famous.* The society of the town is said to be 
 very intelligent and refined, and its schools, both 
 public and private, have a high reputation. 
 
 The next day after our arrival at Lausanne, we made 
 an excursion up the lake, by steamer, to the Castle of 
 Chillon. It was a most delightful journey. The east- 
 ern extremity of the lake is more beautiful and pictur- 
 esque than that lying towards Geneva. The moun- 
 tains are higher, the vineyards are more numerous, 
 and there is a succession of charming little towns and 
 hamlets where one could seemingly take everlasting 
 comfort. Vevey is a large and quite pretentious 
 watering-place, much patronized by French, English, 
 American, and Russian pleasure-seekers. Beyond 
 Vevey lie Clarens and Montreux, the former immor- 
 talized by Rousseau and Byron ; by the latter as — 
 
 " Clarens, sweet Clarens ! birthplace of deep love ! '" 
 
284 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Then we come to the little hamlet of Territet, near 
 which, at the edge of the lake, is the grim old castle 
 which Byron's poem, "The Prisoner of Chillon," has 
 made so celebrated. Although not altogether a truthful 
 history of the sufferings of Francis Bonivard, of Gene- 
 va, who was here imprisoned by the cruel Duke of 
 Savoy in the early part of the sixteenth, century, the 
 world will choose to associate it with his unhappy 
 fate : — 
 
 " Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place, 
 
 And thy sad floor an altar ! for 'twas trod, 
 
 Until his very steps have left a trace, 
 Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod, 
 
 By Bonivard ! may none these marks efface, 
 For they appeal from tyranny to God." 
 
 Byron visited the castle in 1816, and hearing 
 some imperfect traditions of its history, wrote the 
 poem while storm-bound in a hotel at Ouchy. The 
 old castle was built more than a thousand years ago, 
 and one of its earliest prisoners was the Count of 
 Mala, the grandson of Charles Martel. In the thir- 
 teenth century it was rebuilt by Duke Peter of Savoy, 
 It now belongs to the Canton of Yaud, and is a modern 
 arsenal. Visitors are shown through the gloomy old 
 edifice by the most talkative guides. The intelligent 
 leader of our party was a handsome girl, who was 
 much too pretty for such service. She would inevi- 
 tably distract the attention of the visitor from the for- 
 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 285 
 
 bidding old dungeons to her own sweet and modest 
 face. Our guide told, in sweet accents, the tales of 
 wrong and cruelty practised by the hard-hearted old 
 duke, and pointed out the pillar to which Bonivard 
 was chained; the place worn by his feet in the stone 
 pavement ; the dungeon where the condemned passed 
 their last night on earth ; the fatal staircase which led 
 into the deep, still waters of the lake ; and then 
 the comfortable apartments, and the chapel of the 
 tyrants who once occupied the place. The chamber of 
 the duchess has a most beautiful outlook upon the 
 Alps and the valley of the Eh one, with the lake in the 
 foreground. Near Vevey is the ancient chateau of 
 Latour, which was also a residence of the dukes of 
 Savoy. There may be seen the same accompaniments 
 of the ducal rule, — dungeons, and the means of tor- 
 ture. 
 
 From the Castle of Chillon we returned to Ouchy 
 and Lausanne, regretting all the while that the sail 
 was not longer. Between Ouchy and Lausanne is an 
 inclined railway, worked by hydraulic power. It is 
 sixteen hundred and fifty yards long, and the 
 steepest gradient is one in nine. There is a tunnel 
 about midway up the incline, and one or two inter- 
 mediate stations. There are two lines of rail, and 
 while one train ascends, another descends, each serv- 
 ing to keep the other in equilibrium. 
 
 On our return to Lausanne we met the " Circassia " 
 
286 A SUMMEU JATJKT 
 
 division of the Tourjee party, the members of which 
 had landed in Scotland a week earlier than the chief 
 expedition. The same evening we proceeded by rail 
 over a picturesque route to Fribourg, forty-one miles 
 distant. In the economy of the Schweizerische West- 
 bahn this distance meant a ride of two hours and 
 twenty-seven minutes. As darkness came on soon 
 after we left Lausanne, little was to be seen except 
 the beautiful expanse of the Lake of Geneva, and the 
 mountains beyond, as we climbed the slopes. It was 
 quite dark when we went through the ancient walled 
 town of Romont, which is twenty-five miles from 
 Lausanne, and therefore saw little of it or of its pic- 
 turesque surroundings. A castle situated near the rail- 
 way was founded by one of the Burgundian kings in 
 the tenth century. Near Oron-le-Chatel, ten miles 
 south of Romont, the cars pass through a tunnel 
 directly beneath an ancient castle which surmounts a 
 hill. Romont is two thousand Hve hundred and forty- 
 two feet above the sea, or eight hundred and fifty- 
 three feet above Lausanne, and nearly five hundred 
 feet above Fribourg. 
 
 In our omnibus ride from the station in Fribourg to 
 the Zahringen Hof we saw little but narrow streets, 
 very dimly lighted. We ascended to the public room 
 of the hotel from a broad archway which led under 
 the building, and through which vehicles could be 
 driven. We were not prepared to be pleased with 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 287 
 
 either the hotel or the town, for the reason that some 
 fault-finding travellers we had met at Lausanne de- 
 clared both to be unbearable. Judge of our delight, 
 then, when we found the former an exceedingly com- 
 fortable and well-kept house, and Fribourg itself not 
 only picturesque but very inviting. The city is sit- 
 uated on the Sarine, at its junction with the Got- 
 teron, and there is an upper and a lower town, French 
 being spoken chiefly in the former, and German in the 
 latter. The banks are steep, and one of the main 
 thoroughfares between the upper and lower sections is 
 a long flight of stairs, with frequent landings, and 
 numerous houses and shops along the way. In some 
 places a street runs directly over the roofs of these 
 buildings, and, in fact, the pavement of the Rue 
 Grand Fontaine serves as a roof to the houses of the 
 Court-Chemin below. Two high suspension bridges 
 extend across the Sarine and the Gotteron, the one 
 across the former river being nine hundred and sixty- 
 four feet in length and one hundred and eighty-six 
 feet in height, and the other seven hundred and forty- 
 six feet in length and three hundred and five feet in 
 height. A peculiarity of the latter is, that there are 
 no towers or pillars, the wire-chains being secured in 
 the sandstone cliffs on either side of the stream. 
 Curious old watch-towers surmount the neighboring 
 hills, and a quaint old chapel occupies a lonely site 
 opposite Fribourg. 
 
288 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 The Zahringen Hof occupies a most picturesque 
 site near the town terminus of the larger bridge, and 
 its pretty little garden overhangs the lower town, 
 which is a hundred feet and more beneath. The chief 
 buildings of interest within the city are the Cathedral 
 of St. Nicholas, the Stadthaus, or town hall, which 
 occupies the site of the palace of the dukes of Zah- 
 ringen, and the adjacent Rathhaus, or council-hall. In 
 front of these latter buildings stands an aged lime- 
 tree, which has an interesting history. According to 
 tradition, the twig from which the tree has grown 
 was brought to the spot in 1476 by a youth who had 
 come to announce the defeat of Charles the Bold at 
 Morat, — an event that continues to be celebrated by 
 the Swiss. Having declared the joyful tidings in the 
 single word "Victory ! " he fell dead. The old tree is 
 partly supported by stone pillars. 
 
 The Cathedral is a Gothic edifice which was founded 
 in 1285, and completed in 1500. It has recently 
 been restored. The main portal is embellished with 
 some curious old carvings in stone, representing the 
 Last Judgment. Some of the groups are ludicrous. 
 Fribourg, unlike Geneva and Lausanne, is a Catholic 
 city, and the Catholic form of worship is still in 
 vogue within its cathedral. This edifice contains a 
 celebrated organ, one of the largest instruments in the 
 world, in fact. It was constructed between 1824 and 
 1834 by Aloyse Mooser, and has seventy stops and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 289 
 
 seven thousand eight hundred pipes. A concert was 
 given by M. Vogt, the organist, in compliment to Dr. 
 Tourjee's party. The announcement of this entertain- 
 ment was as follows : — 
 
 Fribourg Cathedral. 
 
 Concert upon the Grand Organ, gioen on the visit of Dr. Tourjdc's Ameri- 
 can Party to Fribourg, July 28, 1878. Played by M. Vogt. 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 1. Toccata, . . Bach. 
 
 2. Airdel'Opera "Fidelio," Beethoven. 
 
 3. Fuga, Bach. 
 
 4. Invocation, Guilmanfc. 
 
 5. Chceur de l'Oratorio " Judas Maccabseus," . . Handel. 
 
 6. Priere de " Moise en Egypte," .... Rossini. 
 /. Chceur des " Quatre Saisons," .... Haydn. 
 8. Pastorale, ......... J. Vogt. 
 
 The closing number was a characteristic piece, de- 
 scriptive of a storm in the mountains. The perform- 
 ance was more remarkable than the one we heard at 
 Geneva. The voice of the thunder, the rushing of the 
 cataract and the tempest, the voices of the affrighted 
 animals, and the notes of the Alpine horn, were all 
 interwoven in an elaborate musical composition, and 
 with thrilling effect. The concert was at night, and 
 the dimly-lighted church added to the effect of the 
 music as the mock thunder rolled through the lofty 
 arches. The organ, as we have intimated, is a superb 
 instrument, and not only in this, the chief show-piece 
 of the entertainment, but also in the other selections, 
 
290 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 its noble qualities were brought out grandly by the 
 organist. The same programme was repeated to the 
 other sections of the Tourjee party, July 30, August 
 3, and August 6. 
 
 From Fribourg to Bern is a pleasant railway ride 
 of only nineteen and a quarter miles, and we reached 
 the latter city by an early afternoon train. Bern is 
 situated upon a plateau which rises about one hundred 
 feet above the river Aare, and the river, at this point, 
 takes a great bend, so that it flows around three' sides 
 of the city. The principal streets run east and west, 
 and the chief thoroughfare is about a mile in length. 
 The houses in the principal parts of the old town are 
 built over arcades, and the sidewalk, as well as the 
 shops, are under shelter. This is a very comfortable 
 arrangement in rainy weather. Streams of water run 
 through the middle of the principal streets, which are 
 thereby kept clean, and there are numerous fountains 
 which are adorned with quaint statues. One of these 
 is a grotesque figure of an ogre devouring children, 
 while below is a procession of armed bears. On 
 another fountain, Bruin appears with helmet, shield, 
 sword, and banner. The bear is the heraldic emblem 
 of Bern, and is seen everywhere in effigy, while in a 
 large pit across the river, at the Nydeck Bridge, 
 several of the animals are kept alive at public ex- 
 pense. Two of the ancient towers are preserved, and 
 one contains a clock which exhibits a number of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 291 
 
 mechanical figures when it strikes the hours. Bruin, 
 of course, bears a part in this performance. The 
 Federal Council Hall is a handsome edifice in the 
 Florentine style, completed twenty-one years since. 
 The upper part contains a picture-gallery ; and a look- 
 out on the roof, and also a terrace below, command a 
 fine view of the far-away Alps of the Oberland, when 
 their summits do not persist in hiding themselves in 
 the clouds, as they did during our entire visit. 
 
 The Cathedral is a Gothic structure, begun in 1421, 
 completed in 1573, and quite recently restored. The 
 main portal, like that of the Cathedral at Fribourg, is 
 adorned with curious sculptures. The figures represent 
 the Last Judgment, together with the Wise and Foolish 
 Virgins. The choir contains some curious specimens 
 of stained glass of the fifteenth century. Here, too, 
 is a large organ, upon which concerts are frequently 
 given. 
 
 During our stay in Bern, we were quartered at the 
 Hotel Bellevue, and here we met the "Italian" Divi- 
 sion of the Tourjee party. After an interchange of 
 congratulations, the members of both sections repaired 
 to the Cathedral, to listen to an organ concert, pro- 
 vided by Dr. Tourjee. The printed announcement of 
 this entertainment was as follows : — 
 
 Organ Concert. 
 A special select Organ Concert will be given in the Cathedral of Bern 
 to the Members of Dr. Toarjee's American Musical and Educational 
 
292 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Party, on Tuesday July the 30th, 1878, executed oy Dr. pli. J. Mendel, 
 Organist of Bern. 
 
 PROGRAMM. 
 
 1. Ora pro nobis, 
 
 2. Adagio, . 
 
 3. Festivo, . . 
 
 4. Priere, . 
 
 5. Praelude et Fugue, 
 
 6. Fautasie pastorale sur un 
 
 air suisse (l'orage), . . de Dr. J. Mendel 
 
 Meditation sur un Motif de Mozart. 
 
 de Beethoven. 
 
 de Van Eyken. 
 
 de Ch. M. de Weber. 
 
 de Dr. Ch. H. Kink. 
 
 The Bern organ is a fine instrument, and Dr. Mendel 
 brought out its varied qualities very effectively in the 
 programme I have given. I am not, however, pre- 
 pared to endorse the claim so stoutly set forth by the 
 Bernese, that their organ is superior to the Fribourg 
 instrument. The Fantasie Pastorale was the now 
 familiar "storm-piece"; but Dr. Mendel was disposed 
 to make less of it than M. Yogt, the organist of Fri- 
 bourg, and the work was not nearly as characteristic 
 as the one we heard from the latter. We had also 
 an opportunity to hear, in the course of our stay, a 
 concert by the Bernisclien Or Chester- Vereins, a very 
 excellent orchestra, under Kapellmeister August Koch. 
 The organization is maintained in part at the expense 
 of the citizens. 
 
 The second day of our visit to Bern chanced to fall 
 upon the chief market-day of the week, when the 
 country-folk of the whole district round about came 
 into the city to sell or purchase. Crowds of peasants 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 293 
 
 with little carts of vegetables and fruits, — some drawn 
 by dogs or horses, but not a few by the women them- 
 selves, who seem to be made the chief beasts of bur- 
 den, — and the inevitable umbrella carred under the 
 arm or slung across the back, poured into town at an 
 early hour. By eight o'clock, and thenceforth until 
 noon, all the chief streets for an aggregate of one or 
 two miles in extent, were lined with booths, at which 
 every article describable or indescribable was exposed 
 for sale. Along" the Marktoasse and the Kramgasse 
 were most tempting displays of strawberries, raspber- 
 ries, cherries, blueberries, and every kind of vegetable 
 the Bernese are supposed to eat. The Kesstergasse was 
 lined with meat-stalls. The upper part of the Waisen- 
 haus Platz revelled in the varied but pronounced per- 
 fumes of the different kinds of Swiss cheese, while a 
 large space below was occupied by live pigs and calves. 
 Bread, straw, wood, and baskets occupied an inter- 
 mediate place. Wooden-soled shoes, second-hand 
 clothes, and old junk could be bought on a side street, 
 and adown the Kornhaus Platz, around the Fountain of 
 the Ogre, were grouped a heterogeneous collection, em- 
 bracing pretty nearly everything from cow-bells to 
 cradles, and from pottery to penknives. On the Gra- 
 ben below were animated groups of peasants ; the men 
 with low-crowned hats, and the women with the short- 
 waistecl costumes, chain-ornaments, and broad-rimmed 
 hats, peculiar to the dress of the Canton of Bern ; 
 
294 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 "while, toward noon, the queer old wine-cellars under 
 the Kornhaus were crowded with visitors, who washed 
 down their frugal repast of bread and cheese with 
 Yvorne, Neuchatel, or Lacote. The arcades were 
 abandoned, and the people walked in the middle of the 
 street among the stalls. It was an interesting sight, 
 the people and their wares alike attracting the atten- 
 tion of the stranger, whilst the latter, perhaps, afford- 
 ed quite as much entertainment to the natives. 
 
 The journey from Bern to Interlaken is very de- 
 lightful. The traveller is therein led up to the pres- 
 ence of the mighty mountains of the Bernese Oberland, 
 and at all times he is amid scenes of singular beauty. 
 The trip is made partly by rail and partly by water. 
 Leaving the fine, large railway station in Bern, the 
 cars cross the Aare, and, if the weather is clear, a dis- 
 tant view may be had of the snow-capped mountains. 
 In an hour, the old city of Thun (nineteen and a half 
 miles from Bern) is reached. Thun, like Bern, has 
 a peculiar arrangement of its shops and sidewalks. In 
 the streets of Bern the pedestrian walks on a sidewalk 
 within an arcade of stone, where the shops are located. 
 In the principal street of Thun, a row of magazines 
 and cellars, about ten feet in height, are on the street 
 level, and on their flat roofs is the pavements for foot- 
 passengers, lined on the inner side with shops. 
 
 At Scherzligen, two miles above Thun, we were 
 transferred to the steamer " Bubenborg," on the Lake 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 295 
 
 of Thun. This lake is only ten and a half miles long, 
 and two miles wide. It is environed by mountains, 
 and the views in every direction from the steamer's 
 deck are very picturesque and beautiful. "On leaving 
 the north-western end, the banks are found to be 
 studded with picturesque villas and gardens, with here 
 and there an ancient castle. Beyond these, the lower 
 slopes are clothed with vineyards. The church at 
 Scherzligen is a quaint, castle-like structure, situated 
 at the water-side. The Stockhorn and the Niesen, 
 the latter a mountain seven thousand seven hundred 
 and sixty-three feet high, and of peculiar conical shape, 
 rise upon the right, and farther away in the direction 
 of Interlaken, the Jungfrau, the Monch, the Eiger, the 
 Shreckhorn, and the Wetterhorn are seen. Along 
 the shore are several picturesque little towns. At 
 Spiez the steamer halts to allow several rugged-look- 
 ing students, bearing alpenstocks, to go on shore. 
 They are bound for the Rhone Valley, over the Gemmi 
 Pass, or upon some other mountain excursion in the 
 neighborhood of Spiez. 
 
 The boat finally stops at Darligen, and the passen- 
 gers are transferred to the queer little cars of the 
 Bodeli Railway, which connects the Lakes of Thun 
 and Brienz. These lakes are only a few miles apart, 
 and once must have formed a single body of water ; 
 but the deposits of the Liitschine flowing into the 
 Lake of Brienz, and the Lombach into the Lake of 
 
296 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Thun have separated them, and given a place to Inter* 
 laken and its environs, which comprise the villages of 
 Aarmuhle and Unterseen. The cars I have referred 
 to are two-storied, much like those upon the tramways 
 in London and Paris, except that the upper seats are 
 covered by a roof, while a high wire-guard keeps the 
 passengers from tumbling off. An upper seat is, of 
 course, desirable, even for the short ride, since it gives 
 the better view of the surrounding country. 
 
 Interlaken is a village of large hotels and pensions. 
 The chief street, the Hoheweg, is lined with them, 
 and the neighboring buildings are largely shops which 
 are supported solely by the patronage of visitors. 
 There is a Kursaal, with an adjoining garden, where 
 concerts are given by a good orchestra two or three 
 times a clay. But the chief charm of this delightful 
 summer resort is the magnificent view of the Jung- 
 frau, which lies some miles to the south of Interlaken. 
 There are two near mountains, between which the 
 Lutschine flows, and up the valley the Jungfrau is 
 seen, rising to the height of twelve thousand eight 
 hundred and twenty-eight feet (two thousand nine 
 hundred and fifty-three feet less than Mont Blanc), 
 its sides entirely covered with snow. The lower 
 slopes are hidden, so that the mountain rises into 
 view a majestic form of pure, snowy whiteness. To 
 the right is the pointed summit of the Silberhorn ; 
 and from the Kleine Eugen, a little mountain which 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 297 
 
 stands just out of the village, the lofty crest of the 
 Monch, only two hundred and nineteen feet lower 
 than the Jungfrau, is also seen. From that point both 
 lakes are also in sight. 
 
 Back of Interlaken rises the Harder, a mountain 
 five thousand two hundred and sixteen feet high, the 
 scene of the adventure of young Roland, whom Long- 
 fellow has embalmed in his "Excelsior." The scene 
 of Byron's " Manfred " is laid near Interlaken ; and 
 the legend of "Blue Beard" is associated with a 
 neighboring castle. 
 
 An excursion to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald 
 occupied a day very pleasantly. The former place is 
 seven and a half miles from Interlaken, the road lying 
 up the valley of the White Lutschine, which joins at 
 the little village of Zweiltitschinen, the Black Lilts- 
 chine. The latter river flows from the direction of 
 Grindelwald. The road leads up the valley between 
 high mountains, with the Jungfrau and other of the 
 highest peaks in front, and many picturesque cascades 
 on either side. Lauterbrunnen itself has an elevation 
 of two thousand six hundred and fifteen feet, although 
 situated in a deep valley, between precipitous moun- 
 tains. The inhabitants are kept in their houses during 
 the winter by the deep snows, and then manufac- 
 ture the wood carvings and little ornaments, canes, 
 and alpen-stocks which are sold to summer visitors. 
 The women, and children also, do something of a 
 
298 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 trade in the sale of cheap lace, which is made by the 
 women themselves in front of the houses ; and these 
 abodes are thoroughly Swiss in architecture and sur- 
 roundings. 
 
 The fall of the Staubbach (Dust-brook), the chief 
 of Lauterbrunnen's numerous cascades, has an un- 
 broken descent of nine hundred and eighty feet, and 
 is the highest waterfall in all Europe. Its pure bright 
 waters sweep down so mistily as to be almost noise- 
 less. The soft wind waves it to and fro like some 
 long bridal veil falling from the face of one of the vir- 
 gin hills that wait upon the Jungfrau bride ; or like a 
 knightly plume dropping gracefully from the crest of 
 a giant guard. 
 
 We drove back to Zweilutsckinen, on our way to 
 Grinclelwald, which lies twelve miles from Interlaken. 
 There is also a bridle-path from Lauterbrunnen over the 
 Wengern Alp and the Little Scheideck, but the former 
 route is traversed by carriages. Grinclelwald has an 
 elevation of three thousand four hundred and sixty- 
 eight feet, and is quite a populous village. Its inhabit- 
 ants are chiefly herdsmen. The pastures in the valley 
 are said to support six thousand head of cattle. 
 High up on the mountain-sides clinging to the diminu- 
 tive fields of green, and apparently in danger of slid- 
 ing off into the valley below, are cow-houses, and one 
 wonders how the creatures ever got up there, or, once 
 there, how they get down again. Grindelwald con- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 299 
 
 tains several good hotels, and forms one of the best- 
 known headquarters of Alpine climbers, who start out 
 from here for the ascent of the Jungfrau, the Faulhorn, 
 and the Mettenberg; or on various glacier expedi- 
 tions and the passage of some of the most difficult 
 passes. 
 
 There are two glaciers near Grindelwald which are 
 very accessible, the lower lying between the Eiger 
 and the Mettenberg, and the upper lying between the 
 latter mountain and the Wetterhorn. Both may be 
 visited on foot or on horseback. Most of our party 
 chose the lower glacier, and the former mode of loco- 
 motion. The afternoon was rainy, and the path was 
 muddy and disagreeable across the valley, and slip- 
 pery on the rocks above, but the climb of a mile or a 
 mile and a half, even under these conditions, was 
 amply repaid in the novelty of visiting a glacier. Ice 
 is here gathered for the hotels at Interlaken, and run 
 down into the valley by a gravity railway. An enter- 
 prising gatherer of unconsidered half-franc pieces has 
 constructed a grotto in the glacier, and the visitor 
 may penetrate the immense crystal mass to the depth 
 of one hundred feet or more. 
 
 The guides at Grindelwald are numerous and very 
 persistent, and, upon the difficult and dangerous 
 mountain ascents frequently made from this place, of 
 unquestioned usefulness ; but upon these little excur- 
 sions to the glaciers they are of no assistance whatever. 
 
300 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Nevertheless, they make the most frantic efforts to im- 
 press themselves into the stranger's service, and it is 
 found difficult to obtain the merest scrap of informa- 
 tion from any source unless one of them has been 
 emploj'ed. A member of one of the American parties 
 hit upon a very happy expedient to rid himself of their 
 importunities. A crowd of persistent fellows had 
 followed him and a party of ladies some distance up 
 the path, when he bethought himself of the words of a 
 Greek tragedy committed to memory when a school- 
 boy. At the next onslaught, he turned upon them, 
 and assuming a commanding attitude, launched upon 
 them in stentorian tones the impassioned measures of 
 this drama. The guides looked upon each other in a 
 puzzled sort of way, and before our friend had half 
 finished his philippic, they had turned back in dismay, 
 evidently expecting something more striking still at 
 the next discharge of "Greek fire." 
 
 While riding to either Grindelwald or Lauterbrun- 
 nen, the stranger is made acquainted with the Alpine 
 horn, which is used at several places to raise an echo, 
 — and a few centimes. These instruments are made 
 of wood, and generally wound with thongs of wood and 
 bark. When skilfully blown, their notes have a sin- 
 gularly pleasing effect. They are heavy and cum- 
 brous, some of them being six or eight feet long, and it 
 is the fashion to rest the larger end upon a projecting 
 rock, or a forked post, while the performer evokes the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 301 
 
 echoes by a liberal expenditure of breath at the little 
 end of the horn. 
 
 AVe stopped, while in Interlaken, at the fine Hotel 
 Eitschard, and on our return from our excursion to 
 Grinclelwald, we found at the Hotel Victoria, across 
 the way, the second division of the Tourjee excursion- 
 ists, whom we had not seen since we left London. 
 
 AA^e left Interlaken by the little Bodeli Railway, 
 and at Bonigen, on the Lake of Brienz, took a steamer 
 for Giessbach. The Lake of Brienz is even smaller 
 than its neighbor of Thun, and although its shores are 
 very picturesque, the near mountains shut out the 
 view of the higher peaks. Its length is seven and a 
 half miles, and its width two miles. Giessbach is 
 situated near the upper end of the lake, and opposite 
 the town of Brienz. Here are the famous fails, the 
 river at this point descending to the lake by a series 
 of cascades one thousand one hundred and forty-eight 
 feet. A magnificent hotel, one of the best in Switzer- 
 land, has been built upon a plateau directly in front of 
 the falls, five hundred feet above the lake, and every 
 evening the cascades are illuminated by Bengal lights. 
 This exhibition proved much more pleasing than was 
 anticipated, for it seemed that nature was lovely 
 enough without being gilded. Colored lights were 
 cast upon the masses of falling water, and upon the dark 
 foliage of the mountain-side, with very enchanting 
 effect. A path leads up the mountain, beside the 
 
302 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 stream, and there are several bridges in advantageous 
 places to see the falls. The Falls of the Giessbach 
 were brought into notice in 1818, chiefly by the efforts 
 of a schoolmaster named Kehrli, and a tablet, inserted 
 in the rocky wall of the roadway leading up to the 
 hotel, commemorates the circumstance in the following 
 inscription : — 
 
 Zum Andenkin 
 
 AU 
 
 Johannes Kerhli 
 
 welcher zuerst 
 
 die Falle des Giessbachs 
 
 den freunden der natup 
 
 zuganglich maciite. 
 
 We made an early-morning departure from the hotel 
 at the Falls, walking clown the zigzag road to the 
 steamboat-landing. Walking is generally resorted to 
 by visitors in ascending from the landing to the hotel, 
 or in descending, although invalids, or lazily-inclined 
 persons, are transported in chairs, or in a small one- 
 horse carriage. These are the only vehicular accom- 
 modations of the place, with the exception of a dimin- 
 utive car for the luggage. Luckily, trunks of the 
 "Saratoga" pattern are unknown to Swiss porters, 
 or, at least, hereabout. One of those abominations 
 would overwhelm the transportation facilities afforded 
 by the avenue of approach to the Hotel Giessbach, 
 and necessity might compel its removal in sections. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 303 
 
 The delights of that morning walk in the pure, health- 
 inspiring mountain air, with the joyous music of the 
 cascade ringing in our ears as it leaped from crag to 
 crag to greet the placid lake below, will long live in 
 memory as a sweet inspiration. While awaiting the 
 boat from Bonigen we were entertained by the singing 
 of a trio of Swiss girls, one of whom had a remarkably 
 sweet soprano voice. Swiss music, or, at least, the 
 kind the traveller hears among the mountains, is of a 
 peculiarly wild, free character, which seems to gain its 
 life and inspiration from the hills themselves, although 
 there is an undercurrent of that happy spirit of peace 
 and content which seems to characterize the Swiss 
 peasantry. The jodel, which is of Tyrolean origin, is 
 often heard. Southey says, in describing this music, 
 fr Surely the wildest chorus that was ever heard by hu- 
 man ears ; a song, not of articulate sounds, but in 
 which the voice is used as a mere instrument of music, 
 more flexible than any which art could produce ; 
 sweet, powerful, and thrilling beyond description." 
 At Interlaken a concert was given in the Kursaal by 
 some Tyrolean musicians, one of whom was a fine zither- 
 player. 
 
 The sail across the head of the lake to Brienz was 
 all too short, for the day was most inviting. At 
 Brienz carriages were in waiting to carry us over the 
 Brunig Pass to Alpnach, on the Lake of Lucerne, a 
 distance of about twenty-five miles. This is one of 
 
304 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the lower of the Alpine passes, but the scenery is very 
 picturesque, and the journey across is rendered very 
 interesting. For a few miles after leaving Brienz the 
 road has only a gentle ascent, and, in fact, is nearly 
 level. Quite a sharp ascent is then entered upon by a 
 series of zigzags. A pedestrian can avoid going over 
 much of the ground by taking cross-paths, and the 
 three miles or more of roadway is thus materially 
 lessened. Besides, it is advisable to walk up this side 
 of the pass so as to better enjoy the grand scenery, 
 although it should be mentioned, it is far preferable to 
 cross the Brunig Pass from the opposite direction, so 
 as to have the best scenery always before the eye. In 
 ascending, the traveller has constantly to' turn to be- 
 hold the beautiful landscape which is unfolding itself 
 behind him. The valley of the Aare, formerly a use- 
 less morass, but now a richly-cultivated district, the 
 river having been confined to a single channel by 
 artificial means, is at the foot of the range the Brunig 
 road is climbing, and upon the mountain-wall opposite, 
 some of whose peaks are flecked with snow, are sev- 
 eral beautiful cascades, the chief of which is the pictur- 
 esque Oltschibach, which the traveller sees successively 
 from every point of view. Farther up the valley lies 
 Meiringen, which is one of the approaches to the 
 Grimsel Pass, and also to the Susten and Joch Passes. 
 This charming little town was almost wholly destroyed 
 by fire in the autumn of 1878. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 305 
 
 At one place, on the way up the Brunig Pass, the 
 roadway — at all points finely constructed and ad- 
 mirably kept — is hewn from the solid rock, a huge 
 mass of which overhangs. Just here a dozen girls, 
 with baskets of strawberries and raspberries to sell, 
 had established themselves. Farther on, milk could 
 be bought, and near the summit of the pass, which is 
 three thousand three hundred and ninety-six feet high, 
 is an excellent inn, where wine of good quality is the 
 staple beverage. On the northern descent the scenery 
 is less interesting, yet very pleasing. Lungern is a 
 little village at the foot of the Brunig, and here we 
 halted at the Hotel du Lion d'Or, for lunch. The 
 road passes the little lakes of Lungern and Sarnen, 
 and also through the town of Sarnen, which is the 
 most important place on the route. While midway on 
 the road, we met the third section of Dr. Tourjee's 
 party, headed by Carl Zerrahn. There was a general 
 halt, and a lively, but hurried interchange of greet- 
 ings, as the passengers by the regular diligences, who 
 were at the rear of our two caravans, were impatient 
 of delay. At Alpnach-Gestad, we took the steamer 
 " Stadt-Basel " for Lucerne, and the sail of a dozen 
 miles or so across the Vierwaldstatter-See (Lake of 
 the Four Cantons), which is called the Lake of Lu- 
 cerne, for short, was most thoroughly enjoyed. 
 
 At Lucerne we tarried no longer than to await 
 another boat, intending to return on the morrow, and, 
 
306 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 embarking once more, we sailed up the Lake of 
 Lucerne to Vitznau, one of the towns which lie at the 
 foot of the Rigi. The Rigi is the most frequented 
 mountain in all Europe. Its height (five thousand 
 nine hundred and six feet above the sea, or four thou- 
 sand four hundred and seventy-two feet above the 
 Lake of Lucerne) is not as great as our own Mount 
 Washington, but on account of its isolated position, it 
 commands a beautiful and very extended panorama 
 three hundred miles in circumference. There are three 
 railways on the mountain, two of which, of the Mount 
 Washington pattern, convey passengers between the 
 base and the summit. The other, which runs along the 
 side and to the south end of the mountain for a distance 
 of several miles, is of the ordinary kind. The Eigi 
 railway from Vitznau was constructed at about the 
 same time Mr. Sylvester Marsh was building his rail- 
 way up the side of Mount Washington. The one 
 from Arth, which is situated on the Lake of Zug, was 
 built later. There are four other cog railways for 
 ascending heights in Europe, two of which are in 
 Switzerland, and one each in Austria and Hungary. 
 
 The ascent of the Rigi unfolds a succession of very 
 beautiful views. First the lake, and the wooded or 
 grassy slopes of the mountains on the other side, with 
 the picturesque village of Vitznau, which is literally 
 under the beholder's feet, attract attention. As the 
 car rises higher, the view extends, and the majestic 
 
 v 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 307 
 
 Pilatus, which is only a few miles away, and the dis- 
 tant snow-capped peaks, are seen in all their beauty. 
 The road passes through a tunnel aud over a high 
 bridge. Higher up the hotels begin to appear, and 
 the mountain seems to be covered by them. Our own 
 destination is the Hotel Rigi-Kulm at the end of the 
 route, and the highest point of all. The sun set in a 
 mass of clouds, but there was a momentary scene of 
 splendor when the orb of day burst forth like a mass 
 of fire, suffusing all around with a roseate flush and 
 lighting up the neighboring peaks with a strange 
 weird glow. 
 
 The guests at the Rigi-Kulm are aroused from their 
 morning slumbers by a succession of performances on 
 the Alpine horn. This is more romantic than the 
 dinner-bell on Mount Washington, but when the per- 
 former toots away again in salutation of the morn, as 
 Sol peeps over the distant mountain-tops, and then 
 passes a hat around through the shivering, blinking 
 crowd of early-risers for contributions, the romance Is 
 dispelled. The visitor is generally content, however, 
 to pay the small tax for a performance which has per- 
 chance saved him from oversleeping and earned him 
 the opportunity to witness the spectacle of a gorgeous 
 sunrise. 
 
 Our sunrise was certainly gorgeous. There were 
 clouds again, but they served to beautify the scene, as 
 the sun's early rays suffused them, as well as the distant 
 
308 a summeti jaunt 
 
 snow-coverecl peaks, with soft, rosy tints. The lakes 
 of Lucerne and Zusr were covered bv white masses of 
 clouds and wholly obscured from view, but under the 
 influence of the warm sun, the fleecy waves rose upon 
 the sides of the mountain to engulf us. 
 
 There are three lakes at the foot of the Rigi, the 
 two above named, and the little Lake of Lowerz, 
 which was the scene of a terrible disaster in 1806, 
 when an enormous mountain-slide obliterated a large 
 part of the sheet of water and buried wholly the little 
 village of Goldau. 
 
 Breakfast over — and here let me remark that the 
 hotel is the best kept mountain-house I ever visited — 
 we descended by the railway to Vitznau. Instead of 
 returning directly from thence to Lucerne, we took a 
 boat going the opposite way, and so enjoyed an excur- 
 sion over the most picturesque part of the beautiful 
 Lake of Lucerne. The lake in some parts resembles 
 a river rather than a broad sheet of water, and it is 
 bordered by high and stately cliffs, with lofty moun- 
 tains rising from the water's edge. Along the side of 
 the cliff for much of the way, often hewn out of the 
 solid rock, and in some places through galleries or 
 tunnels, lies the celebrated Axenstrasse, leading from 
 Gersau to Brunnen and Fluelen, and over which the 
 railway will run when the great St. Gothard tunnel is 
 completed. We went as far as Fluelen, near which 
 "William Toll's Chapel is situated. This is a small 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 309 
 
 edifice, open on the lake side, and the interior is dec- 
 orated with rude frescos illustrating scenes in the life 
 of the Swiss patriot. The chapel is near the bank, 
 and the interior is plainly seen from the passing 
 steamer. Altorf, two miles from Fliielen on the St. 
 Gothard route, is the traditional scene of the exploit 
 of William Tell in shooting the apple from his son's 
 head. A colossal statue of Tell, in plaster, presented 
 to Altorf in 1861 by the riflemen of Zurich, is said to 
 occupy the spot where Tell stood. On the opposite 
 side of the lake from where TelPs Chapel stands, but 
 nearer Brunnen, high up the rocky cliff, are the three 
 springs of the Rutli, or Griitli, which mark the spot 
 where the thirty-three patriots of Uri, Schwyz, and 
 Unterwalden met on the memorable night of the 7th 
 of November, 1307, and bound themselves by an oath 
 to drive their oppressors forth. This plateau, and an 
 inn built thereon, belong to the Swiss Confederation. 
 Not far from this spot, a pyramid of rock, eighty feet 
 in height, rises from the lake. It has been inscribed 
 to Schiller, the "Bard of Tell," and a second inscrip- 
 tion tells of a young Swiss officer who lost his life 
 there. Brunnen is a flourishing town, and is much 
 resorted to by summer travellers on account of its 
 beautiful situation. Some quaint old warehouses, to 
 be seen from the lake, are decorated with frescos 
 upon the outside of the walls. Gersau is a little vil- 
 lage which occupies a shelf between the waters of the 
 
310 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 lake and the towering Rigi-Sckeideck. For over four 
 centuries (from 1390 until 1798, when the French de- 
 prived it of its rights), this^ little corner of the earth, 
 with scarcely eight square miles of territory at its 
 command, boasted of being an independent state. It 
 was annexed to the canton of Schwyz in 1817. There 
 are various reminders of William Tell and the tyrant 
 Gessler, other than those I have mentioned, one of 
 which is a second " Tell's Chapel " which is situated 
 between Kiissnacht and Immensee. The former place 
 is at the extremity of one of the arms of the Lake of 
 the Four Cantons, and the latter lies between two and 
 three miles distant on the Lake of Zug. Near Kiiss- 
 nacht stood Gesslcr's Castle. Upon the shores near 
 Lucerne are many charming villas, in one of which, the 
 villa of Tribschen, Richard Wagner resided several 
 years. On the opposite bank is the picturesque 
 chateau of Neu-Hapsburg, behind which rises the 
 tower of an ancient castle once occupied by Rudolph, 
 Count of Hapsburg, afterwards emperor of Germany. 
 The castle was destroyed by the Lucerners in 1352. 
 
 At Lucerne we remained over Sunday, making our 
 headquarters at the Hotel Schwanen. The city is 
 most charmingly situated at the outlet of the lake, 
 with the river Reuss running swiftly through it, on its 
 way towards the Rhine. The outlook across the clear 
 waters of the lake is very picturesque. To the right 
 rises Mount Pilatus, with its group of peaks, the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 311 
 
 highest of which, the Tomlishorn, rises to the altitude 
 of six thousand nine hundred and ninety-eight feet. 
 To the left, only a few miles away, is the Rigi. In 
 the distance are some of the lofty peaks of the Ber- 
 nese Oberland, which reach into the region of per- 
 petual snows. The town has preserved its watch- 
 towers and ancient walls, which were erected in 1385, 
 and in other regards retains some marks of its anti- 
 quity. There are two old covered bridges across the 
 river, both of which are adorned with pictures. These 
 are for foot passage only, but two other modern 
 structures, one of which is a broad iron bridge, paved 
 with stone, furnish the means of vehicular communi- 
 cation from one part of the town to the otjier. The 
 Kapellbrlicke , one of the two ancient bridges, runs 
 obliquely across the stream, and connected with it, 
 almost in mid-river, is the picturesque old Wasser- 
 thurm, which contains the archives of the town. 
 Tradition has it that this building was once used as a 
 light-house (lucerna) , and that the town derived its 
 name therefrom. The pictures are upon cross-pieces 
 beneath the roof, and are seen only by persons cross- 
 ing on the bridges. The Kapellbrlicke is thus 
 adorned with one hundred and fifty-four paintings, 
 representing scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar 
 and St. Mauritius, the patron saints of Lucerne. 
 While crossing the Spreurbriicke, which is further 
 down the stream, there is an opportunity to con tern- 
 
312 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 plate a series of illustrations of "The Dance of 
 Death." The fine Schweizerhof-Quay, with its hand- 
 some hotels and charming avenue of chestnuts, was 
 reclaimed from the lake in 1852. 
 . Lucerne is intensely Catholic, but its summer pop- 
 ulation includes many Protestants, and here, as else- 
 where in Switzerland, the government exercises a 
 degree of -control over the church edifices that often 
 tends to open a Catholic place of worship for Prot- 
 estant meetings. During the summer of 1878, the 
 Maria Hi If Church, an old convent chapel, was occu- 
 pied by the Scotch Presbyterians, and on the' Sunday 
 of our visit, Rev. Mr. Macdonald, of Boston, a mem- 
 ber of Dr„ Tourjee's party, was invited to preach 
 there. 
 
 The Cathedral, or Hofkirche is an ancient edifice 
 which was restored in the seventeenth century. Its 
 two slender towers were built in 1506. The church 
 contains a handsome pulpit, carved stalls, some hand- 
 some stained-glass windows, two side altars with 
 reliefs in carved wood, and several very good paint- 
 ings. In addition, it contains a magnificent organ, 
 which fairly vies with the Fribourg instrument. In 
 arcades on the exterior, are some quaint reliefs repre- 
 senting scriptural scenes. The churchyard contains 
 several very interesting monuments. 
 
 Lucerne has a veritable lion in the celebrated piece 
 of sculpture designed by Thorwaldsen. It is a colos- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 313 
 
 sal figure of a dying lion (twenty-eight feet in length) . 
 The animal is reclining in a grotto, transfixed by a 
 lance, and shelters the Bourbon lily with its paw. It 
 was hewn from the natural sandstone, and com- 
 memorates the bravery of the Swiss soldiers who 
 defended the Tuileries, in Paris, on the 2d and 3d of 
 September, 1792. The work is very impressive, and 
 its very situation, amid trees, and over a dark pool of 
 water caused by a spring which flows from the top, 
 adds to its effect. Near the lion is the Glacier Garden, 
 which contains some very wonderful evidences of the 
 action of glaciers, discovered only a few years ago. 
 There are several "glacier mills" in the sandstone, one 
 of which is twenty-seven feet in diameter, and eighteen 
 feet deep, and the granite "mill-stones" are in several 
 instances of hu^e dimensions. There are eighteen of 
 these holes within a comparatively small space. They 
 were first discovered while excavations were in prog- 
 ress for building operations. The granite bowlders 
 must have come from a great distance in the glaciers, 
 as there are no similar formations nearer than the St. 
 Gotharcl Pass, ' except where deposits of the same 
 character have been made by glacial action. A 
 pavilion within the Glacier Garden contains an inter- 
 esting relief map of Central Switzerland, made by 
 General Pfyffer. 
 
 The fourth of the series of organ concerts, given on 
 the occasion of the visit of Dr. Tourjee's party to 
 
314 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Switzerland, took place in Lucerne in accordance with 
 the following announcement : — 
 
 Lucerne Cathedral. 
 
 Concert upon the Grand Organ, given on the visit of Dr. Tourjeds Ameri- 
 can Party to Lucerne, August 3, 1878. Played by Mr. P. Ambros 
 Meyer 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 I. 
 
 1. Concert variations upon the Harmonious Blacksmith, Hsendel. 
 
 2. Solo upon the Vox Humana. 
 
 3. Adagio from the C Major Symphony, .... Haydn. 
 
 4. Prayer, Lemmens. 
 
 II. 
 
 1. Description of a storm. 
 
 2. Concert variations on God Save the King, . . . Hesse. 
 
 It will be seen that the programme was much the 
 same as those presented at Geneva, Fribourg, and 
 Bern. The Lucerne organ is a fine instrument, and 
 M. Meyer is a musician of high repute. The usual 
 "storm-piece " was played, and well played too. The 
 thunder crashing from crag to crag, the moaning of 
 the winds, the rushing of the mountain torrent, and 
 the pastoral songs of the peasants mingled with the 
 notes of the Alpine horn, and the tinkling of cow- 
 bells, are generally imitated with more or less distinct- 
 ness ; but the traveller may find the real thing in the 
 mountains without much trouble. The organists seem 
 to look upon the business as a necessity, in order to 
 popularize their concerts, although it is to be noted 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 315 
 
 that M. Haering, of Geneva, and Dr. Mendel, of 
 Bern, seem to have entered into it more gingerly than 
 the others, judging from the length of the pieces per- 
 formed, and the manner of their arrangement. The 
 Lucerne organ has a marvellously sweet vox humana 
 stop, which M. Meyer is extravagantly fond of using. 
 It is of a soft and most delicious quality, and quite 
 free from the strong reediness which is found in some 
 organs. The instrument is remarkably even in quality 
 throughout, and the full organ attains volume and 
 power without harshness. 
 
 Our party met at Lucerne several familiar American 
 faces. One was that of Rev. George C. Lorimer, D. 
 D., of Boston. Sunday evening Rev. Dr. Lorimer 
 held a praise service in one of the drawing-rooms of 
 the Hotel Schwanen, Dr. Tourjee directing the musical 
 exercises. 
 
 From Lucerne to Zurich by railway via Zug, is a 
 distance of thirty-seven and a half miles, and the 
 country traversed is beautiful and well cultivated. 
 Zug is a place of something less than five thousand 
 inhabitants, and is the capital of the smallest of the 
 Swiss cantons. 
 
 Zurich is a populous and beautiful city, and is most 
 charmingly situated at the northern extremity of the 
 lake of the same name. The city lies chiefly along 
 the banks of the lake, and upon either side of the 
 river Limmat, which is the outlet of the lake, and 
 
316 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 which divides the town into the Grosse Stadt and 
 Kleine Stadt. The river Sihl flows through the west- 
 ern part of the town, and unites with the Limmat 
 a short distance from the lake. The Polytechnic 
 School and other public edifices are on the heights 
 east of the Limmat, and there are shaded avenues on 
 the slopes, commanding beautiful views of the town. 
 The lake shores are adorned with vineyards, farms, 
 and pretty villages. An elevation, called the Uctliberg, 
 extends along for several miles, just below Zurich, 
 west of the lake ; and, far away over the waters in the 
 south, are the blue outlines of the Alps. The city is 
 renowned for its educational institutions, which 
 include a university and a polytechnic school, and for 
 the culture and intelligence of its people. . There is 
 also an air of business thrift and prosperity which is 
 not as noticeable in every Swiss city. The railway 
 station is the handsomest, best arranged, as well as 
 the largest to be seen in all Switzerland, and the new 
 Bahnhof Strasse, which runs therefrom directly through 
 the city, is a broad, handsome avenue, already lined 
 with stately and costly edifices which would do honor 
 to Paris, Vienna, or London. Our hotel was the 
 Bellevue, one of the proprietors of which, Mr. Pohl, 
 took special pains to show our party through the city 
 and its environs. The house, like most Swiss 
 hotels of the best class, is exceedingly comfortable, 
 and its situation, on the border of the lake, is certainly 
 very charming. 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 317 
 
 The sights of Zurich may be " clone " in a day and a 
 half, but a much longer time may be spent in the city 
 and its vicinity with pleasure and profit. Many 
 pleasant excursions can be made upon and about the 
 lake. One of the chief attractions within the city is 
 the town library, and the collection of the Antiquarian 
 Society, both of which are contained in the Wasser- 
 kirche, an ancient church edifice, which once stood in 
 the river Limmat, and now joins its eastern bank. 
 Many interesting objects are preserved in these col- 
 lections, including autograph letters of Zwingli, Lady 
 Jane Grey, Henry IV. of France, and Frederick the 
 Great, together with busts of Lavater, by Dannecker ; 
 Pestalozzi, by Imhof, &c. There are also several 
 relief-maps of Switzerland. The library includes 
 about one hundred thousand volumes. The greatest 
 value, however, will attach to the relics of the lake 
 dwellers of Switzerland, which have been collected by 
 the Antiquarian Society in profusion. This collection 
 is the largest in existence, and has been arranged and 
 classified with great care. 
 
 From the Wasserkirche we went to the Gross 
 Minister, an old church dating back to the eleventh 
 century, and occupying a site where a still older 
 church existed. The edifice has little beyond its 
 antiquity to recommend it to attention. A statue of 
 Charlemagne occupies a niche in one of the towers. 
 The military establishment of Zurich is quite exten- 
 
318 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 sive, and the arsenal contains a fine museum of ancienl 
 arms and armor. The " crossbow of William Tell " h 
 shown ; but the ancient ownership of the weapon 
 needs verification. There are so many of these bows 
 which are said to have been TelPs, that the traveller 
 grows incredulous after a while. The battle-axe, 
 sword, coat of mail, and helmet of Zwingli, who 
 was killed while battling with the Reformers against 
 the Catholics, at the battle of Kappel, Oct. 11, 1531, 
 are also shown. 
 
 In company with Mr. Pohl, we ascended the Uetli- 
 ber2T« Crossing the foot of the lake in boats from the 
 Hotel Bellevue, we entered a canal bordered by hand- 
 some dwellings, and having some of the characteristics 
 of the grand canal of Venice. Alighting from the 
 boats, we had only a short distance to go to a station 
 from whence a railway, not of the Eigi pattern, but of 
 the ordinary kind, leads to the top. The views, both 
 in going up and at the summit, are very fine, and are 
 exceeded only by those from the Bigi, which is a 
 mountain of the same class, though considerably 
 higher. The elevation of the Uetliberg is only 
 twenty-eight hundred and sixty-four feet above the 
 sea, or fifteen hundred and twenty-three feet above 
 the lake ; but its isolated position gives a glorious 
 outlook upon Zurich and its beautiful surroundings, 
 and upon the distant panorama of the Alps. There 
 are at the top a large hotel and a gigantic beer-garden, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 319 
 
 where sunrise concerts are frequently given in the 
 summer, more especially Sunday mornings. 
 
 In the evening we attended a fine concert at the 
 Tonhalle. Zurich is a very musical city, and its pro- 
 visions for the musical entertainment of its citizens 
 are of the best order. The Tonhalle contains a large 
 apartment where festivals and winter concerts are 
 held, together with spacious billiard, smoking, and 
 lounging rooms, and connected therewith is an im- 
 mense garden, partly covered and partly al fresco, for 
 summer concerts. During the summer, concerts are 
 given here every evening, and if the night of our visit 
 is to be taken as a fair indication, the patronage is very 
 large. The admission is from forty to sixty centimes 
 (from eight to twelve cents), but a good revenue is 
 had from the consumption of beer and light wines, 
 which is here, as in other Swiss, French, and German 
 cities, something enormous. 
 
 From Zurich we proceeded to Schaffhausen, by the 
 way of Winterthur, a distance of thirty-five miles, 
 and arriving at that ancient town, proceeded a couple 
 of miles farther by carriages to the little town of Neu 
 hausen, in order to visit the Falls of the Ehine. A 
 fine large hotel, the Schweizerhof, has been built upon 
 the high bank of the Ehine, directly in front of the 
 falls, the river here making a bend. The river is at 
 this point contracted between high and rocky walls, 
 and the water flows in a great volume on each side of 
 
320 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 
 a little island, the descent being about sixty feet. 
 The breadth of the river just above the falls is three 
 hundred and eighty feet. There are fine view-points 
 on both sides of the river, one of them being from 
 Schloss Laufen, an ancient castle, situated on the left 
 bank, and the island in the middle of the river may be 
 reached in a boat at the risk of a wetting. Our time 
 here was unfortunately brief, and four of us deter- 
 mined upon making an evening trip to the island. 
 Our little party comprised Miss Vianna Johnson, of 
 Concord, N. H., Mr. George F. Lane, of Birming- 
 ham, Pa., Mr. John A. Squire, of Arlington, Mass., 
 and the writer. Solicitous friends and over-anxious 
 outsiders tried to dissuade us from what they Were 
 pleased to consider a dangerous excursion, and the 
 boatmen were inclined to look upon our proposition 
 with some degree of astonishment, but manifested a 
 willingness to earn a few francs. Accordingly we were 
 rowed out in a little skiff from the Schlosschen Worth. 
 The moon shone not very brightly, and we were shut 
 in by the dark, high banks. To paddle the boat over 
 the tempestuous rapids below the falls, and up the 
 current between the seething masses of falling water 
 at either side of the little island, was no boy's play for 
 the boatmen. Several waves dashed into the skiff, 
 and once or twice the craft was caught by the surging 
 waters and hurled down stream again, in spite of the 
 stout oarsmen, who had then to go to work with 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 321 
 
 redoubled strength to regain the advantage lost. At 
 length the little craft touched landing at the foot of 
 the island, and we leaped ashore amid showers of 
 spray. By mounting a slippery staircase, several line 
 views of the cataract were had, but they hardly repaid 
 the trouble taken to obtain them, especially through a 
 night observation. Our passage back to the shore 
 was easy enough, although the boatmen stopped in the 
 middle of the stream long enough to convince us of 
 the importance of giving another franc to each of them 
 as trinkgeldt. 
 
 Our dinner at the Hotel Schweizerhof was served 
 upon the broad piazza overlooking the falls and the 
 far-away Alps, and the waiters were Swiss maidens 
 dressed in their native costumes, the distinctive features 
 of which were a black bodice with white sleeves, and 
 ornamental chains of silver hanging beneath their 
 arms and attached by silver rosettes to the breast, and 
 shoulder. Each canton in Switzerland has its distinct- 
 ive costume, but these chains, like the broad-rimmed 
 hats, also worn by the women, seem to be popular in 
 various parts of the country. 
 
322 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 GERMANY. 
 
 Leaving Switzerland — Basel and its Clocks — Strassburg and its 
 Famous Cathedral — Marks of the Siege of 1870 — The Storks 
 and the Geese — The Astronomical Clock — Climbing the 
 Cathedral Tower in a Thunder-storm — Baden-Baden and its 
 Beautiful Surroundings — The Black Forest — Heidelberg — 
 Its University and Ruined Castle— "The Great Tun — The 
 Rich City of Frankfort — Wiesbaden and its Attractions — 
 The Storied Rhine — Its Towns and Vineyards — Its Castles 
 and their Romantic Legends — The Bromserburg — The Moose 
 Tower — The Devil's Ladder — The Pfalzgrafenstein — The 
 Lurleiberg — The " Cat" and the " Mouse " — " The Brothers " 
 Roland and Ilildegunde — The Drachenfels — Cologne — Its 
 Great Cathedral — The Church of the Eleven Thousand Virgins 
 and its Relics — Other Objects of Interest in Cologne. 
 
 The canton of Schaffhausen is one of the smallest 
 subdivisions of Switzerland, and it projects so far 
 above the general northern boundary line of the coun- 
 try, that in going in any direction except the south- 
 east, the traveller soon reaches the confines of the Grand 
 Duchy of Baden. To the north are the mountains of 
 the Schwarz Wald, or Black Forest, far less grand 
 and imposing than the Alps, yet very picturesque and 
 beautiful. The Feldberg, the highest mountain of 
 the group, is only four thousand nine hundred and 
 twenty-one feet high. It is situated in the southern 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 323 
 
 part of the Black Forest country. A railway leads 
 down the north bank of the Rhine from Constance 
 and Schaffhausen to Basel, and thence northward to 
 Carlsruhe, Heidelberg, Mannheim, &c. Another line 
 runs northward to Stuttgart, and connecting therewith 
 is a railway, constructed only a few years ago, run- 
 ning through the heart of the Black Forest country 
 via Villingen and Hausach, and joining the Baden 
 line at Oflenburg, nearly eighty miles below Basel. 
 Our route lay directly over the Baden line via Basel ; 
 and it should be liere remarked, that the German 
 section of our tour extended wholly along the general 
 course of the Rhine, from the point where we first 
 approached the stream near Schaffhausen, down as 
 far as Cologne. In confining ourselves to this route 
 we were, of course, deprived of visiting Stuttgart, 
 Munich, Dresden, Berlin, and many other important 
 places, but our journey was through one of the most 
 beautiful regions of the earth ; a region enriched by 
 nature and art, and abounding in scenes of historic 
 and fabled interest. 
 
 We left the Falls of the Rhine with regret, making 
 an early morning departure from the palatial Hotel 
 Schweizerhof. Cattle are frequently used as beasts of 
 burden in both Switzerland and Germany, and one of 
 these animals was harnessed to a cart and made to 
 do service in transporting our luggage to the sta- 
 tion. Later in our journey, while at Baden-Baden, 
 
324 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 I observed a cow which was attached to a milk-cart. 
 The patient animal was being driven upon her matuti- 
 nal rounds from house to house. Economy would 
 seem to suggest that the cart might have been dis- 
 pensed with, and that the nourishing fluid might be 
 had " on draft " from the natural fount, as the custom 
 is at the Molkencur establishments. As a general 
 thing the milk- wagons are drawn by donkeys, many 
 of which are so diminutive as to suggest at once to the 
 juvenile mind that the animals might be better em- 
 ployed as playfellows. The drivers are almost invari- 
 ably women. Women's rights prevail to such an 
 extent all over Europe that the gentler sex is per- 
 mitted to do a large part of the drudgery, including 
 about nine-tenths of the work in the fields and much 
 of the labor on the streets. Women are frequently 
 seen carrying loads which seem enough to make the 
 stoutest male athlete quiver. Iu some cities not only 
 girls, but old women, may be seen earning a few cen- 
 times or pfennigs by sweeping the streets. 
 
 But of our journey. Erom Neuhausen our course 
 was through a well-cultivated region, and several 
 picturesque towns were scattered along the route, but 
 for a time we were shut in. by little hills, and out of 
 sight of the Ehine, so that the view was circum- 
 scribed. Emerging again upon the bank of the river, 
 the views broadened and included distant glimpses of 
 the Alps, and later of the Vosges, while upon the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 325 
 
 other hand we skirted for the whole day the outlying 
 ranges of mountains of the Black Forest. Beyond 
 the little station of Wilchingen we crossed from the 
 confines of Switzerland into the great German enmire. 
 Waldshut, the most important town between Schaff- 
 hausen and Basel, contains only between one and two 
 thousand inhabitants. At Laufenberg, a few miles 
 below Waldshut, the Rhine dashes with much fury 
 over its rocky and narrow bed. The rapids have been 
 successfully passed in boats, but the undertaking is 
 hazardous. In 1793, the eighth Lord Montagu, an 
 English nobleman, and the last of his family, lost his 
 life in attempting the feat. By a singular coincidence 
 his ancestral mansion, Cowdray House, in Sussex, was 
 burned down almost on the same day. Laufenberg 
 is in Swiss territory, on the opposite side of the river, 
 which here forms the boundary line between the two 
 countries, and an ancient castle looks down upon the 
 impetuous waters. The cultivation of the grape is 
 carried on quite extensively all along the valley. 
 Rheinfeklen, like Laufenburg on the left, or Swiss 
 bank of the Rhine, was in ancient times strongly for- 
 tified and frequently besieged. Here, too, the stream 
 dashes over the rocks in rapids. At Kleine Basel, 
 which is on the opposite of the Rhine from the Swiss 
 city of Basel, all the luggage was taken from the train 
 for inspection by the custom-house authorities. The 
 examination in our case was a trivial affair, and caused 
 
326 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 no delay whatever beyond the removal of the trunks 
 to the customs office and from thence back to the lug- 
 gage-van. 
 
 Basel is one of the most ancient, and also one of the 
 most populous of Swiss cities. The city derives its 
 chief importance from its advantageous position at the 
 junction of the frontiers of Germany, France, and 
 Switzerland. There are here an imposing cathedral, 
 built by the Emperor Henry II., in the early part of 
 the eleventh century, and a museum which contains 
 quite a collection of Holbein pictures, but, to the 
 ordinary tourist, Basel derives its chief importance 
 from being one of the main points at which the Swiss 
 round is begun. The traveller goes from here, either 
 up the river to Schaffhausen and Constance, or by 
 direct routes to Zurich, Lucerne, or Neuchatel. 
 
 The people of Basel, by the w T ay, kept up a curious 
 custom until the end of the last century, of having 
 their clocks an hour in advance of the rest of the 
 world. Now they contrive to have as good times as 
 their neighbors. It is somewhat remarkable that the 
 origin of so singular a practice should not be more 
 clearly traced. One theory mentioned by Thomas 
 Ferguson, in "Swiss Men and Swiss Mountains," is 
 that the people of Basel were an hour lazier than other 
 people, and required this notable device to keep them 
 up to the mark. Another is to the effect that the 
 town clock having been struck by lightning, and the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 327 
 
 hand forced an hour forward, the superstition of the 
 people prevented them from interfering with what 
 they considered to be an act of Heaven. A third is 
 that an attempt of an enemy to surprise the town was 
 given up because the erratic but exceedingly timely 
 clock struck ail hour in advance, deceiving them into 
 the belief that they were too late. A fourth theory is 
 the most sensible of all. It is, that the choir of the 
 Cathedral being built at a little deviation to the true east, 
 a corresponding variation was caused on the sun-dial. 
 Whatever the cause may have been, Basel for a long 
 period strongly warred against all innovations, and 
 all attempts to set the time once more in joint were 
 defeated until comparatively a modern date. Once 
 the reformers, having been unsuccessful in the open 
 field, made an attempt to put the clock back by stealth. 
 They shifted the hands half a minute each clay, and 
 had already succeeded in putting it back three-quarters 
 of an hour, when, by some means, the people found out 
 that their time was being tampered with, and terrible 
 was the commotion that ensued. In the Museum, 
 contained in the Munster at Basel, is preserved the 
 Lallenkonig, a large head which formerly occupied a 
 place on the clock-tower of the bridge across the 
 Ehine, and which was not taken down until 1839. 
 This uncouth figure rolled its eyes and protuded its long 
 tongue at each vibration of the pendulum. It is said 
 to have been erected in derision of the inhabitants of 
 
328 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Kleine-Basel in consequence of some dispute, and it is 
 recorded that the people thus derided returned the 
 compliment by erecting a similar figure on their own 
 side of the river. Thus Basel and Kleine-Basel could 
 "make faces" at each other all day* long, and through 
 the darkness of night as well, without being disturbed 
 in their ordinary avocations. 
 
 Below Basel, the Bhine valley broadens, and the 
 scenery is not always so picturesque, although the 
 Black Forest Mountains are to be seen most of the 
 way in the east, while glimpses of the Vosges are 
 sometimes had in the west. The Kaiserstuhl is a low 
 mountain occupying something over forty square miles, 
 which lies between the railway line and the Khine, 
 above Fribourg, the principal place between Basel and 
 Strassburg. Both the Kaiserstuhl and the slopes of 
 the Black Forest Mountains are covered with vines. 
 Fribourg, which is a city of about twenty-five thou- 
 sand inhabitants, contains a handsome cathedral in the 
 Gothic style, dating back to 1122, the tower of which, 
 three hundred and ninety-seven feet in height, is of 
 exquisite open-work design. Near Fribourg stands 
 the watch-tower of the ruined castle of Zahringen, 
 once the seat of a powerful race, which became ex- 
 tinct in 1218, by the death of Count Berthold Y. 
 
 At Appenweir, eighty miles below Basel, and about 
 one hundred and forty miles from Neuhausen, we 
 changed from the main railway line to a branch road 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 329 
 
 jading through Kehl and across the Rhine to Strass- 
 burg. At Kehl, the railroad crosses the river just 
 below a bridge of boats. Making a sweep partly 
 around the city, the railway joins the more important 
 lines running south, west, and north, and the traveller 
 is thus left just within the fortifications on the opposite 
 side of the town. The railway approach from Kehl 
 serves almost as well to give a panoramic view of 
 Strassburg, as a ride around Paris, on the Chemin de 
 Fer de Ceinture, does of that city. 
 
 The fortifications of Strassburg are formidable in 
 their way, although they did not save the city from 
 being captured by the Germans in the recent war. 
 The Prussian government has for several years been 
 engaged in strengthening the works. The place has 
 always been regarded as a point of great strategetic 
 importance, and in a letter written by the Emperor 
 Maximilian I., it is termed the bulwark of the Holy 
 Roman Empire, and commended for its old German 
 honesty and bravery. The siege of Strassburg by the 
 Germans in the late war began August 11, 1870, and 
 continued until September 27, when the town was 
 forced to capitulate. Not only the citadel on the east 
 side of the town, and the main fortifications on the 
 opposite side, together with many buildings near 
 those points, were destroyed, but much damage was 
 done to public and private edifices in all parts of the 
 city. The damage to the cathedral alone was esti- 
 
330 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 mated at one million four hundred thousand francs. 
 The work of restoration is going steadily forward, 
 and the government has dealt liberally with the inhab- 
 itants of Strassburg who suffered damage to their 
 property during the siege. Many shops and houses 
 have been rebuilt at government expense. The city, 
 which numbers nearly one hundred thousand inhab- 
 itants, is chiefly French in everything save its soldiery, 
 and the Emperor William takes precautions to render 
 this feature essentially Teutonic. The city is the 
 headquarters of the fifteenth corps of the German 
 army, and there are generally stationed here some 
 fifteen thousand soldiers. 
 
 The town was founded by the Romans, and named 
 Argentoratum, and in the Middle Ages it became one 
 of the most prosperous and powerful of the free cities 
 of the German Empire. 
 
 The visitor to Strassburg is struck by the ancient 
 appearance of many of its houses, and by the pres- 
 ence of a large colony of storks on the housetops. 
 The citizens regard the storks with great love and 
 respect, and it is considered a good omen for the citi- 
 zen whose chimney-top or roof-tree is chosen by the 
 birds for a resting-place. Strassburg's kind treatment 
 of the storks is a sort of recompense, possibly, for its 
 unhandsome dealings with the geese, which arc .inordi- 
 nately fattened, solely in order to turn their gorged 
 livers into jjdle defoit gras. 
 
A STORE'S NKST IN STRASSBURG 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 331 
 
 The famous cathedral was, of course, the great 
 centre of attraction for our party. This edifice rises 
 very conspicuously in the centre of the city. It 
 stands upon the site of a church founded by Clovis, 
 about 510, and which was destroyed by lightning in 
 1007. The foundation of the present cathedral was 
 laid by Bishop Werner, of Hapsburg, in 1015, and 
 the interior was completed in 1275. Under Bishop 
 Conrad, of Lichtenberg, in 1277, the construction of 
 the fagade was begun, by Erwin of Steinbach, and after 
 the hitter's death, in 1318, the work was continued 
 by his son John, who died in 1339. The spire of the 
 north tower was completed by John Hiiltz in 1439, 
 but the south tower remains unfinished to the present 
 day. The construction of the edifice having been 
 superintended by the ablest masters during four cen- 
 turies, an opportunity is afforded to trace the rise and 
 progress of Gothic architecture. The fagade is the 
 richest part of the whole structure. Its magnificent 
 rose window is forty-two feet in diameter, and its 
 three portals, which are adorned with scenes from the 
 history of the Creation and Eedemption, are regarded 
 as being among the finest Gothic works in existence. 
 In niches are equestrian statues of Clovis, Dagobert, 
 and Rudolph of Hapsburg (all dating from 1291), 
 and of Louis XIV. (erected in 1823). In 1793, sev- 
 eral hundred statuettes were ruthlessly torn down 
 and destroyed by the French revolutionists, and the 
 
332 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 beautiful spire only escaped the same fate from having 
 been provided with a red republican cap, made of 
 metal, as a protecting badge. The south portal of 
 the church is adorned with sculptures by Sabina, the 
 talented daughter of Erwin. The spire rises to the 
 immense height of four hundred and^sixty-five feet, — 
 to the same elevation as the loftiest of the Pyramids 
 of Egypt, but twenty-seven feet less than the new 
 spire of the cathedral at Rouen. The church has 
 been damaged many times by lightning, once by an 
 earthquake, and in the memorable siege became a 
 target for the Prussian guns, for the reason that the 
 French maintained a post of observation on the ele- 
 vated platform between the towers. Not only was 
 the spire hit several times, but the organ was pierced 
 by a shell, and the stained-glass windows were almost 
 wholly ruined. On the night of the 25th of August, 
 1870, the roof caught fire, and a great portion of it 
 tumbled in. For several years past workmen have 
 been repairing the damage, and at the time of our 
 visit the new dome seemed to be approaching com- 
 pletion. On the 4th of September, two shells hit the 
 crown of the spire, and on the 15th a shot entered 
 the point below the cross, which was bent on one side, 
 and caused to dangle from the iron bars of the Kght- 
 ning-conductor. 
 
 The interior of the church is three hundred and 
 sixty-two feet in length, one hundred and thirty-five 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 333 
 
 feet in width, and ninety-nine feet in height. It 
 contains, in addition to some interesting statues and 
 monuments, the celebrated astronomical clock. The 
 present clock was constructed by Schwilgue, a dis- 
 tinguished Strassburg mechanic, between 1838 and 
 1842, to replace a similar clock made by Conrad 
 Dasypodius. There have been, altogether, three 
 mechanical clocks in the cathedral. The first was 
 begun as early as 1352. This occupied a position in 
 the transept directly opposite the spot where Dasy- 
 podious built his clock (finished in 1574), and where 
 the present clock stands. The old clocks were mar- 
 vels in their day, and the present one is far more 
 elaborate than either. In addition to the mechanical 
 figures which move about when the hours are struck, 
 there are complicated devices to indicate various 
 astronomical changes. For example, the old calendar 
 was altered by M. Schwilgue into a perpetual one, 
 with the addition of the feasts that vary, according to 
 their connection with Easter or Advent Sunday ; an 
 orrery, after the Copernican system, is made to 
 present the mean tropical revolutions of each of the 
 planets visible to the naked eye ; the phases of the 
 moon and the eclipses of the sun and moon calculated 
 for all time ; true time, and sidereal time is indicated ; 
 and a celestial globe exhibits the precession of the 
 equinoxes, together with solar and lunar equations for 
 the reduction of the mean geocentric ascension and 
 
334 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 declension of the sun and moon. A dial placed with- 
 out the church, and showing the hours and days, is 
 put in motion by the same mechanism. The movable 
 statues attract the chief attention. On the first <xal- 
 lery, an angel strikes the quarters on a bell, while one 
 of the genii reverses an hour-glass at the end of the 
 hour. Death strikes the hours, and grouped around 
 him to mark the quarters, are Childhood, Youth, Man- 
 hood, and Old Age. Under the first gallery ; the sym- 
 bolic deity of each day steps out from a niche, — 
 Apollo on Sunday, Diana on Monday, and so on. 
 At noon, the twelve Apostles pass before the Saviour, 
 to whom each one bows in turn, while the Saviour 
 raises his hands to bless each one of them. During 
 the movement of the figures, a cock crows thrice, and 
 Satan peers forth as Peter goes by. 
 
 After a hurried inspection of the collection of 
 statuettes, quaint ornaments, models, &c, and the 
 works of the old clock, preserved in the Chapel of 
 the GEuvre-Notre-Dame, opposite the Cathedral, we 
 visited the Church of St. Thomas. This church con- 
 tains a magnificent marble monument, by Pigalle, 
 erected by Louis XY. to Marshal Saxe, who died in 
 1750. The design is in very questionable taste. The 
 marshal is in the act of descending into the tomb, 
 opened for his reception by Death, while a female 
 figure, representing France, strives to detain him. 
 Hercules, in mourning attitude, leans upon his club. 
 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 335 
 
 On the left are an eagle, a lion, and a leopard, with 
 the broken flags of Austria, Holland, and England 
 beneath, to commemorate the marshal's victories over 
 those three nations in the Flemish wars. This work 
 occupied Pigalle's time for twenty years. In a side 
 chapel are two mummies supposed to be the bodies of 
 a Count of Nassau-Saarbriicken and his daughter, who 
 died in the sixteenth century. There are two fine 
 statues in Strassburg, one in honor of Gutenberg, 
 who made his first experiments in printing here about 
 the year 1436, and the other to Kleber, the French 
 general. The house occupied by Goethe, who grad- 
 uated at the University of Strassburg as a doctor of 
 laws in 1771, is indicated by a marble slab. The 
 Brand-Strasse, or Rue Brulee, is a street marking the 
 spot where two thousand Jews were burned in 1349, 
 because they refused to be baptized. 
 
 On returning from the Church of St. Thomas, I 
 revisited the cathedral for the purpose of climbing the 
 spire. This is a task of no mean order, inasmuch as 
 the stairs above the platform (which of itself has an 
 elevation of two hundred and sixteen feet above the 
 street) are narrow and steep, and, towards the top, 
 upon the outside of the spire. At one place the balus- 
 trade was carried away by a Prussian shot at the time of 
 the siege. A severe thunder-storm rendered the ascent 
 additionally difficult, for the reason that the spire, which 
 is open upon the sides, admitted the rain. It was found to 
 
336 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 be prudent to await the end of the storm at the keeper's 
 house on the platform. The view from this elevation, 
 as well as from above, was magnificent. From the 
 higher point it was interesting to watch the progress 
 of the storm. The country west and south of Strass- 
 burg was covered by an inky pall ; but the Rhine 
 valley, and the green masses of the Black Forest, 
 were bathed in sunlight. While listening to the mut- 
 tering thunder, and watching the vivid lightnings as 
 they played about in the storm, which for a few 
 minutes was very fierce, it was not difficult to imagine 
 that the memorable siege of the city was still in prog- 
 ress ; and, to add realism to the scene, a house in the 
 suburbs was set ablaze by a stroke of li^htnin2T. 
 When this tumult of the elements was going on, it 
 was not a very consoling reflection that the church 
 had many times been struck by lightning. It was a 
 glorious scene in every aspect, however, and amply 
 repaid all the toil involved in the ascent. 
 
 At Steinbach, a few miles from Strassburg, on the 
 summit of a barren hill, stands a monument to Erwin, 
 the architect of Strassburg Cathedral. The place 
 commands a view of Strassburg, and a statue of the 
 celebrated architect stands facing the noble structure 
 his genius aided in creating. 
 
 From Strassburg we proceeded direct to Baden- 
 Baden, which was reached just before sunset. During 
 our visit to this delightful spot we were quartered at the 
 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 337 
 
 excellent Hotel Hollande. Baden-Baden, one of the 
 oldest and most fashionable of German watering-places, 
 is most charmingly situated on the borders of the Black 
 Forest, which extends across the Grand Duchy of 
 Baden and into the kingdom of Wurtemberg. It is 
 a town of some ten thousand permanent inhabitants, 
 and the visitors to its springs number fifty thousand a 
 year. The little river Oos or Oel-Bach runs through 
 the town on its way to join the Murg near Eastatt, 
 and on every side arc picturesque hills between one 
 thousand and two thousand feet high. The hot 
 springs of Baderi-Baden form its chief attraction,- but 
 the rare beauty of its surroundings is, after all, its 
 principal charm. The waters were known to the 
 Romans, who built baths here, and in constructing 
 the old bath-house the Roman masonry surrounding 
 one of the springs was found. Until the end of 1872, 
 Baden-Baden shared with Wiesbaden and Homburg 
 the questionable distinction of being one of the chief 
 gaming places of Europe, but roulette and rouge et 
 noir have now been banished to the little principality of 
 Monaco, and the air is greatly purified. The gaming 
 tables formerly occupied the splendid saloons of the 
 Conversationshaus, which are now but little used except 
 for balls and concerts, and as reading: and lounsrinsr 
 rooms. For six hundred years the town was the seat 
 of the Margraves of Baden, a long line of whom are 
 buried in the Pfarrkirche. Herman III., who died in 
 
338 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 1190, while engaged in the Crusades, was the first to 
 reside in the old castle. The new castle was erected 
 by the Margrave Christopher in 1479, but both town 
 and castle suffered so much during the Thirty Years' 
 War and the War of the Palatinate (1689) that the 
 Margraves soon after the latter date transferred their 
 residence to Eastatt. 
 
 The Conversationshaus, the Trinkhalle, and the new 
 Baths are the chief buildings in the town, although 
 the theatre and several of the hotels are also quite im- 
 posing in external appearance. Altogether there are 
 upwards of forty hotels, little and great. A bronze 
 statue of the Grand Duke Leopold, who died in 1852, 
 is in the Leopoldsplatz. The Conversationshaus 
 comprises an extensive suite of gorgeously decorated 
 apartments, and in front is a park, where concerts are 
 given three times daily, the band, or orchestra, occupy- 
 ing a gayly decorated kiosk. The chief assembly room, 
 where the balls are given, is a magnificent apartment 
 one hundred and fifty feet long and fifty feet high, 
 lighted by five huge chandeliers. The Trinkhalle is a 
 commodious building, and the inner walls of the portico 
 are adorned with fifteen frescos, illustrating some of the 
 legends of the neighboring Black Forest. Fourteen 
 of these are by Gotzenberger. The springs are thir- 
 teen in number, and rise on the opposite side of the 
 town, the water being conveyed to the Trinkhalle by 
 pipes. These springs supply one hundred and sev- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 339 
 
 enty-one thousand one hundred and sixty-eight gallons 
 of water daily, and are of different temperatures, rang- 
 ing from 118° to 154° Fahrenheit. They belong to 
 the class of alkaline salt springs, and are efficacious 
 both for drinking and bathing purposes. Near the 
 Trinkhalle is a little chalet where hundreds repair at 
 the morning drinking hour to solace themselves with 
 fresh milk from goats and cows, the fluid being drawn 
 from the lacteal founts after it is ordered. Some of 
 the patrons of the chalet take a mixture of milk and 
 spring water, and not a few add a piece of bread, 
 which serves as an early " plain " breakfast. 
 
 On the slope of the Michaelsberg, back of the 
 Trinkhalle, is a handsome Greek chapel, erected in 
 1866 as a tomb for the Roumanian Prince, Michael 
 Stourdza, who died three years previous in Baclen. 
 Near the chapel Prince Albert zu Solms-Braunfels has 
 recently completed a very handsome and expensive 
 chateau. 
 
 A five hours' drive, which included visits to the exten- 
 sive ruins of the Alte Schloss and to the restored castle 
 of Eberstein, was a very delightful experience. Car- 
 riage drives at Baden are not costly, though the prices 
 are possibly a trifle higher than in other South German 
 towns and in Switzerland. The roads are well built and 
 cleanly kept, and as our course was largely within the 
 richly shaded confines of the Black Forest, and later 
 along the beautiful Lichtenthaler Allee, the excursion 
 
340 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 was a succession of pleasurable sights and sensations. 
 The Alte Schloss, or old castle of Hohenbaden, is sit- 
 uated nearly upon the summit of the Batter, which rises 
 north-cast of Baden to the height of something over six- 
 teen hundred feet, and dates back to the tenth and 
 eleventh centuries. It was here that the line of the 
 Margraves established their seat until the building in 
 1479 of the Neue Schloss, which is at present the sum- 
 mer residence of the Grand Duke of Baden. The walls 
 arc chiefly in ruins and overrun with ivy. Where 
 knights and proud Margraves trod the courtyard pave- 
 ment, an enterprising restaurant keeper has set up a 
 little establishment, and upon the outer wall appears, 
 not an ancient banner, but the familiar English legend, 
 "Bass's Pale Ale." More romantic is the work of a 
 Carlsruhe tradesman, who has placed in a high win- 
 dow in each face of the old castle walls a large JEolian 
 harp. One of the instruments sang with mysterious 
 sweetness in the south wind, like the contented spirit 
 of some ancient dweller of the castle ; perhaps the 
 good Margravine, whose saintly devotion is said to 
 have delivered the country from the scourge of the 
 "Black Death," some five hundred years ago. The 
 view from the summit of the old Roman tower, which 
 embraces the wide valley of the Rhine for a long 
 extent, the city of Rastatt and the neighboring hills 
 and forests, together with Baden itself, is very fine. 
 Near the castle are some curiously cleft masses of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 341 
 
 porphyry resembling at a little distance castles and 
 towers. Resuming seats in our carriages, we rode 
 around the Batter, through the village of Eberstein- 
 burg, near which are the ruins of another ancient 
 castle ; by the Engelskanzel and Teufelskanzel, where 
 an angel and the imp of darkness are supposed to have 
 held a theological discussion ; along the shaded slopes 
 of the Merkur, or greater Staufenberg ; and thence to 
 the castle of Eberstein, which is situated above the 
 Murg, near Gernsbach. This ancient stronghold was 
 built about the middle of the thirteenth century, and 
 having fallen into decay, was restored finally by the 
 late Grand Duke Leopold. It is at present one of 
 the summer residences of the Grand Ducal family and 
 contains some fine specimens of ancient armor and some 
 very curious specimens of ancient glassware. From 
 the castle of Eberstein we drove over a winding road 
 down through Mullenbach and into the valley of the 
 Oos, which flows through Lichtenthal and Baden. 
 The Lichtenthaler Allee is a magnificent avenue, lined 
 with large trees, uniting Lichtenthal to Baden, and 
 along which is the fashionable drive. The little river 
 Oos flows at one side, and across it are rustic bridges 
 leading to numerous villas. The opposite side of the 
 allee is also lined with gardens and handsome chateaus. 
 The house of Prince Menchikoff is hidden by the 
 foliage, and the residence of Prince Stourdza is across 
 the Oos, near Baden. While driving toward Baden 
 
342 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 we met the Empress Augusta of Germany, who was 
 out for an afternoon airing in her carriage, and who 
 had been in Baden for nearly a month enjoying the 
 baths. During her stay in Baden-Baden she resided 
 in unostentatious style at the Maison Mesmer, near 
 the Conversationshaus, and was frequently seen out 
 walking or riding. The Stiftskirche contains a 
 stained-glass window presented by the empress to 
 commemorate the preservation of the Emperor Wil- 
 liam from assassination in 1861. 
 
 From Baden-Baden we proceeded to Heidelberg, 
 the route taking us through Rastatt, Carlsruhe, and 
 Bruchsal. The distance is about sixty miles, and we" 
 were pleasantly quartered in the Hotel de l'Europe in 
 time for an early dinner, after which we rode out 
 through the city and up to the ruins of the old castle. 
 The University of Heidelberg, one of the. most influ- 
 ential of the German seats of learning, occupies a 
 number of old buildings, which do not make such an 
 imposing appearance as the fame of the ancient school 
 would seem to warrant. The University was founded 
 in 1336 by Elector Rupert I., and became indebted 
 for its modern development to Charles Frederick of 
 Baden, who, in 1802, provided it with eminent pro- 
 fessors and scientific collections. There are at pres- 
 ent seven or eight hundred students, and the visitor to 
 Heidelberg is reminded by the slashed cheeks of the 
 young men that duelling is still in vogue. The duel- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 343 
 
 ling ground is at a little inn on the opposite side of 
 the Neckar. The damage inflicted is generally con- 
 fined to cuts upon the face. The authorities seem to 
 make no effort to stop the practice ; on the contrary, 
 it is encouraged in some quarters as a means of mak- 
 ing the students hardy and courageous, and of fitting 
 them for the stern duties of military life. 
 
 Heidelberg's chief church edifice, the Heileg-Geist- 
 kirche (the Church of the Holy Ghost), was divided 
 between the Catholics and Protestants instead of being 
 given solely to either, and the nave is now employed 
 for Protestant and the choir for Catholic worship. 
 The church is in the market-place, and all around the 
 edifice, with barely space for the door- ways, is a row 
 of mean-looking shops. There are two other fine 
 churches, one belonging to the Jesuits and the other 
 Peter's Church.- 
 
 Before visiting the castle we rode out to the Wolfs- 
 brunnen, a spring where the oldest fish-breeding es- 
 tablishment in Europe is situated. Tradition tells of 
 an enchantress who was killed here by a wolf. From 
 the spring we rode along the slopes to the castle, all 
 the time enjoying charming views of the town and 
 the Neckar ; and having first gazed upon the ruins 
 from the Molkencur, two or three hundred feet above 
 them, we dismissed the carriages and devoted the 
 remainder of the afternoon to a closer inspection of 
 the grand old pile. 
 
344 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 The ruins, which are of vast extent, stand upon a 
 terrace at the north-east extremity of the town, three 
 hundred and thirty feet above the Neckar, which flows 
 along the north-west side of Heidelberg. The oldest 
 portion of the castle was erected by Lewis the Severe, 
 son-in-law of Rudolph of Hapsburg, about the close 
 of the thirteenth century. Subsequently it was en- 
 larged by other of the electors who successively 
 occupied it, until it had reached, in the seventeenth 
 century, really grand proportions. It suffered much 
 during the Thirty Years' War, and still more during 
 the devastations of the Palatinate. In the Orleans War, 
 the French general Melac, contrary to the stipulation, 
 caused the castle to be blown up. This was In 1689. 
 In 1693, the French once more gained possession of 
 Heidelberg, and besides wreaking their vengeance still 
 further upon the beautiful structure , massacred the 
 inhabitants of the town. In 1764, the lightning 
 nearly completed the work of destruction. The pon- 
 derous gateway, some of the towers, and portions of 
 the interior buildings, are still standing, however, to 
 tell of former greatness. The visitor can ascend to 
 the top of the Gesprengte Thurm (Blown-up Tower), 
 and see in the moat below him the prostrate half of 
 the tower, just where it was left by the explosion in 
 1689. So solid was the masonry, that the dislodged 
 portion fell in an unbroken mass, where it remains to 
 the present day. The walls at this point are no less 
 
HEIDELBERG AND THE OLD CASTLE. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 345 
 
 than twenty-one feet thick. The visitor is taken on 
 an extended tour through the castle, and between one 
 and two hours are occupied, even if the inspection is 
 only of a casual nature. He is conducted through 
 underground passages, along galleries and buttresses, 
 and through lofty halls. Several of the towers may 
 be ascended. Ivy creeps over the ruins in many 
 places, and there are several gigantic vines which 
 have thrived for centuries. In one of the cellars is 
 the famous Heidelberg Tun, which holds no less than 
 three hundred thousand bottles of wine. It was con- 
 structed in 1751, and has been thrice filled. The 
 huge cask lies upon its side, and flights of stairs lead 
 to the top, where at least fifty persons might be as- 
 sembled. In a neighboring cellar is a smaller cask, 
 bearing humorous inscriptions. There are extensive 
 gardens near the castle, and from a terrace which 
 extends towards the river a magnificent view of the 
 castle, and of the town and country beyond is ob- 
 tained. One of the striking features of the ^iofantic 
 ruin is the great diversity of architecture. Dating 
 from the thirteenth century, the original structures 
 were enlarged and built upon by successive potentates. 
 The electors of the sixteenth and seventeenth cen- 
 turies, in particular, made sumptuous additions to the 
 alreadj 7 beautiful castle. 
 
 From Heidelberg, by the way of Frankfort-on-tke- 
 Main, to Wiesbaden, where we were to pass a Sunday, 
 
346 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 is a journey of between three and four hours, but we 
 took nearly a clay for it, by stopping over for several 
 hours at Frankfort. On the way thither we passed 
 through Weinheim, Bensheim, and several other small 
 and picturesque towns, and also through the city of 
 Darmstadt. On our arrival at Frankfort, we engaged 
 nacres, for a drive through the city and to some of its 
 principal objects of interest. The city dates from the 
 time of Charlemagne, and was long the place where 
 the German emperors were chosen. From 1814 to 
 1866 it was one of the four free cities of Germany, 
 and in the latter year it was taken by the Prussians. 
 It has nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants, in- 
 cluding a garrison of .three thousand soldiers, twenty 
 thousand Roman Catholics, and eight thousand Jews. 
 The old part of the town consists of narrow and unin- 
 viting streets, but the city long ago outgrew its an- 
 cient limits, and the newer portions are handsome and 
 imposing, the broad avenues being lined with stately 
 edifices and many evidences of wealth and refined 
 taste. The Anlagen, or public grounds, which nearly 
 surround the city, are handsomely laid out, and serve 
 delightfully both for driving and promenading. 
 
 One of the first objects we saw after leaving the 
 station was the new theatre and opera-house, intended 
 to take the place of a theatre which was burned. It 
 is to be a large and handsome edifice. We rode first 
 to Bethmann's Museum, in a distant part of the town, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 347 
 
 to see Dannecker's exquisite group, Ariadne on the 
 Panther, which is familiar the world over through 
 innumerable copies in parian, engraving, and photo- 
 graph. It is a beautiful work, and Frankfort may 
 well consider it one of its chiefest treasures. Several 
 casts of celebrated pieces of statuary are also exhib- 
 ited here. Near this spot, and just outside the Fried- 
 berger Thor, is a curious monument erected by Fred- 
 erick William II. of Prussia to the Hessians who fell 
 on the spot in a successful attack on the French, who 
 then occupied Frankfort, December 2, 1792. It con- 
 sists of a mass of rock, bearing a pillar surmounted 
 by a helmet, sworcl, and ram's head. Taking a cir- 
 cuitous ride nearly around the city, we passed many 
 charming residences and public buildings, and then 
 rode into the city. We passed through the Juden- 
 gasse, or Jews' street, and were shown the house 
 where Meyer Amschel Rothschild, the founder of the 
 great firm of bankers, was born in 1743, and where 
 his mother preferred to live until the day of her death. 
 In order to make the site more pleasant for his mother 
 in her declining years, the son purchased some build- 
 ings on the opposite side of the street and razed them 
 to the ground. All the houses in the Judengassc are 
 very ancient, and the street is quite narrow, although 
 less so than some of the other old thoroughfares, 
 where the tall, projecting houses nearly shut out the 
 light of heaven altogether. It was the ancient custom 
 
348 A STJMMEK JAI/NT 
 
 to lock the Jews within their own quarter at night. 
 At the cathedral, — an edifice which dates from the 
 early half of the thirteenth century, — we alighted 
 again to examine the interior, where there are several 
 interesting monuments. It was here the coronation 
 of the German emperors took place, and in the 
 Eomer, an ancient building near by, we were shown 
 the Wahlzimmer (election room), and Kaisersaal 
 (Imperial hall), where the new emperor was chosen, 
 and then dined with the electors. A collection of 
 portraits of the emperors adorns the wall of the 
 Kaisersaal. The cathedral was nearly destroyed by 
 fire in 18G7, and has recently been restored. A house 
 opposite the church is embellished with a stone effigy 
 of Martin Luther, and it is recorded that the great 
 Reformer addressed the people therefrom while he 
 was on his journey to Worms. Continuing our ride 
 through the city, we saw the Schiller, Gutenberg, and 
 Goethe monuments, all of them elaborate and hand- 
 some memorials ; Goethe's house in the Hirschgraben j 
 the Bourse and other public buildings ; the old bridge 
 across the Main ; and the fine new Kaiser-strasse, with 
 its elegant hotels, cafes, and shops. 
 
 Frankfort is said to be the richest city of its size in 
 the whole world. There are one hundred Frankfurt- 
 ers worth from $4,000,000 to $5,000,000 each, and 
 two hundred and fifty who are worth $1,000,000 and 
 upward. The city is one of the great banking centres 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 349 
 
 of the world. Its aggregate banking capital is esti- 
 mated at $200,000,000, more than one-fourth of which 
 the Eothschilds control. If its wealth were equally 
 divided among its one hundred thousand inhabitants, 
 every man, woman, and child would have, it is said, 
 20,000 marks, or $5,000 each ; and there are not a few 
 who would be glad to get their proportionate part to 
 lift them out of penury. 
 
 The Taunus Railway, which leads from Frankfort to 
 Mayence and Wiesbaden, is one of the oldest in Ger- 
 many, having been put in operation in 1839. From 
 Frankfort to Wiesbaden is a ride of one and a quarter 
 hours, and the distance to Mayence, which is on the 
 opposite side of the Rhine from Kastel, is a trifle less. 
 The view of Mayence, obtained on the ride to Wies- 
 baden, is very fine. Kastel is a fortified place, and 
 the railway intersects the line of fortifications on both 
 sides of the town. It is near here that the famous 
 Hochheimer wine is produced. At Weisbaden we 
 were pleasantly located at the Hotel du Rhin. This 
 city is considerably, larger than Baden-Baden, and very 
 much larger than either Ems or Homburg, which, like 
 it, arc famous spas. It has a permanent population of 
 upwards of thirty-five thousand persons, and, in 1872', 
 it entertained overisixty thousand patients, travellers, 
 and gamesters, for the gaming-tables were then in 
 operation. The hot springs are here, as at the other 
 places named, the chief attraction for the invalids, 
 
350 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and the drinking of the waters seems to be practised 
 much more zealously than at Baden-Baden. The 
 Kochbrunnen, or boiling spring, has a temperature of 
 156° Fahrenheit. The Cursaal is a large building, 
 containing elegant saloons, which were formerly the 
 lair of the "tiger." Now they are used for balls, con- 
 certs, reading-rooms, &c. The larger hall is a gor- 
 geous apartment, one hundred and thirty-two feet long, 
 sixty feet wide, and forty-eight feet high. 
 
 Wiesbaden was known to the Romans, and there 
 have been found near the town, remains of a Roman 
 camp. The Cursaal is surrounded by an extensive 
 park, and in front are fountains which are illuminated 
 at night. Two long colonnades, filled with shops, 
 flank the approach to the Cursaal from the Wilhelms- 
 strasse. 
 
 The Protestant Church, which is a fine Gothic 
 structure, with five lofty spires, is one of the most im- 
 posing edifices in the town. The Royal Palace is an 
 unpretentious, though extensive edifice, which is situ- 
 ated in the market-place. There are many pleasant 
 drives in the neighborhood of Wiesbaden, and one of 
 them leads to the summit of the Neroberg, a little 
 mountain which rises about a mile south of the Cur- 
 saal. A small temple has been erected at the summit, 
 from which a magnificent view of the city, together 
 with Biebrich, Mayence, the river Rhine, and the 
 wine-growing district of the Rheingau, is had. About 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 35 1, 
 
 half- way up the Neroberg is a beautiful Greek chapel, 
 erected at great cost by the Duke of Nassau as a mauso- 
 leum for his first wife, the Duchess Elizabeth Michail- 
 owna, a Eussian princess, who died in 1845. The 
 edifice is in the form of a Greek cross, and is sur- 
 mounted by one large and four smaller gilded domes. 
 The highest is surmounted by a Eussian double cross, 
 one hundred and ninety feet from the ground, 
 secured by gilded chains. The interior is entirely of 
 marble. A rich altar-screen, painted in Eussia, sepa- 
 rates the body of the church from the choir. A 
 recess on the north side contains the monument of 
 the Duchess. A recumbent figure of white marble, 
 resting on a sarcophagus, at the sides of which are 
 statuettes of the twelve Apostles, and at the corners 
 Faith, Hope, Charity, and Immortality, was executed 
 by Prof. Hopfgarten, of Berlin. A Eussian burial- 
 ground occupies a plateau near the chapel. The 
 Platte, a shooting-lodge of the Duke of Nassau, is a 
 point some nine hundred feet higher than the Nero- 
 berg, and the view therefrom is, of course, more ex- 
 tended than from the latter. 
 
 A handsome avenue, about three miles in length, 
 lined with rows of horse-chestnut trees, leads from 
 Wiesbaden to Biebrich, which was formerly the seat of 
 the Duke of Nassau. The palace is pleasantly situated 
 upon the bank of the Ehine. The statues on the top 
 of the building long since went -to decay, and now 
 
352 A SUMMEE JAUNT 
 
 many of them are headless or armless. A handsome 
 monument to the soldier-sons of Biebrich, who fell in 
 the late war between Germany and France, stands near 
 the steamboat-landing. 
 
 At Biebrich we took passage on board the steamer 
 " Deutscher-Kaiser," of the Cologne and Dusseldorf 
 line, for a descent of the river Rhine, as far as Co- 
 logne, a distance of nearly one hundred and twenty 
 miles. This part of the journey constituted one of the 
 richest experiences of our delightful round of travel 
 through Europe. We floated down the noble stream, 
 which, for centuries, has been the pathway of great 
 nations, and the line of their deadliest conflicts, amid 
 scenes of singular natural beauty, made stranger still 
 by the presence of grim relics of the long past, and 
 around every one of which are gathered the history 
 and romance of centuries. Shorn of its castles and 
 monasteries, and of its legendary lore and historic 
 associations, the Rhine would scarcely compare, in 
 simple picturcsqucness, with' our own beautiful Hud- 
 son ; but with its stately ruins, and the weird tradi- 
 tions which have been handed down from ancient and 
 mediaeval times, it must ever occupy a foremost place 
 in history and song. The most romantic scenery 
 upon the Rhine, or, at least, along its navigable 
 waters, — for the river rises among the high Alps, 
 and runs several hundred miles amid the richest and 
 wildest mountain-scenery of Switzerland before it be- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 353 
 
 comes of commercial importance, — lies between May- 
 ence and Cologne ; in fact, between Biebrich and 
 Bonn : but there is much beauty in perspective and 
 retrospective both above and below its hilly banks. 
 
 " The river nobly foams and iiows, 
 
 The charm of this enchanted ground, 
 And all its thousand turns disclose 
 Some fresher beauty varying round." 
 
 The entire length of the Rhine, from its source in 
 the mountains to the North Sea, is eight hundred and 
 seventy miles, and, for a distance of about five hun- 
 dred and seventy miles, from Basel to its mouth, it is 
 navigable. The Toma-See, on the side of Mont St. 
 Gothard, the source of the Vorder-Rhein, is seven 
 thousand six hundred and eighty-nine feet above the 
 level of the North Sea, and the Rheinwald Glacier, 
 the source of the Hinter-Rhein, has an elevation of 
 seven thousand two hundred and sixty-eight feet. 
 Even in its navigable part the descent is considerable, 
 and the stream is rapid until Holland is reached, 
 where, ignominiously, the mighty river loses itself in 
 a great delta. On its way to the ocean, the Rhine 
 drinks up the waters of three hundred and seventy 
 glaciers, and some three thousand streams, great and 
 small. 
 
 The time occupied in descending the Rhine, from 
 Mayence or Biebrich (the two places are only a few 
 miles apart), to Cologne, is, for the express boats, 
 
354 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 seven and a quarter hours. The upward passage 
 occupies four or five hours longer, on account of the 
 strong current. The passenger steamers, or the best 
 of them, are commodious and comfortable, and, in the 
 term of summer travel, are always crowded by 
 tourists. 
 
 Soon after leaving Biebrich, on the trip down the 
 river, the traveller comes to the rich and beautiful 
 district of the Rheingau, on whose sunny slopes are 
 some of the most valued vineyards in the world. 
 Beyond the vine-patched slopes, are the more sombre 
 masses of the Niederwald, a forest-clad height, where, 
 at no distant day, a national monument is to be placed 
 to hold its "Watch upon the Rhine." Several ancient 
 towns are scattered along the river banks, and upon 
 the vine-covered heights above are picturesque hamlets, 
 chateaus, and castles. The Rheingau wns once sur- 
 rounded by an impenetrable barrier, formed by a dense 
 belt of trees fifty yards in width, so interwoven as to 
 form a gigantic hedge. At the little town of Eltville, 
 at the upper border of the Rheingau, the German 
 King, Gunther of Schwarzburg, held his court until 
 compelled to resign his dignity by his opponent Charles 
 IV. This was in 1349. In the fourteenth and fif- 
 teenth centuries, too, the Archbishops of Mayence 
 had a residence here, to which they often resorted to 
 escape from civic broils, and here the Archiepiscopa 
 mint was established. One of the first printing- 
 
' THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 355 
 
 presses was set up at Eltville in 1465, fifty years 
 after the invention of the art, and before the death of 
 Gutenberg. Several of these little towns are known 
 to have existed as early as the eighth and ninth 
 centuries. The castle of Johannisberg is picturesquely 
 situated nearly three hundred and fifty feet above the 
 Ehine, amid the extensive vineyards of the estate. 
 The Johannisberg vineyards cover an area of sixty- 
 five acres. The castle is not very old, having been 
 built by the Abbot of Fulda in 1716. It occupies the 
 site of an old Benedictine convent which dated back 
 to 1106. On the suppression of the Abbey of Fulda, 
 in 1802, the castle became the property of the Prince 
 of Orange. In 1807 it was presented by Napoleon 
 to Marshal Kellermann, and in 1816 it was conferred 
 by the Emperor of Austria on the late Prince Metter- 
 nich. It is here that all the genuine Johannisberger 
 wine is made. Eudesheim, another famous wine-raising 
 section of the Eheingau, is not far below the Johan- 
 nisberg estates. It is a town of several thousand 
 inhabitants, and is picturesquely set off against the 
 vine-clad slopes of the near hills. At the lower 
 extremfty of the town is the Bromserburg, or Nieder- 
 burg, a massive rectangular tower, from which Gisela, 
 the only daughter of a knight of the house of Bromser, 
 flung herself into a watery grave, because her father, 
 one of the Crusaders, in token of his victory over a 
 dragon, and his deliverance from the hands of t;he 
 
356 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Saracens, had vowed he would dedicate her to the 
 Church. There was, of course, a lover in the case. 
 According to popular tradition, her pale form continues 
 to haunt the spot ; but if all the drowned maidens who 
 are said to still haunt the -waters of the Rhine were 
 really to put in an appearance, the navigation of the 
 stream would be seriously impeded. 
 
 A short distance below Rudesheim, on the opposite 
 bank of the Rhine, at the mouth of the River Nahe, 
 lies Bingen, — "Fair Bingen on the Rhine," — a 
 quaint old town of between six and seven thousand 
 inhabitants, which was known to the Romans. A 
 castle stands on a hill behind the town, and the neigh- 
 boring heights are clothed with vines. Just below 
 the town, on an island in the river, is the famous 
 Mausethurm, or Mouse Tower, which derives its name 
 from the familiar legend of Archbishop Hatto of May- 
 ence, who caused a number of poor people — whom 
 he compared to mice, bent on devouring the corn he 
 hoarded — to be burned in a barn. After this cruel 
 deed, says the legend, he was attacked by an army of 
 mice. He took refuse in the tower, but thither the 
 little animals swam and devoured His Eminence. 
 This is the tale ; but its authenticity is made somewhat 
 questionable by the fact that the Mouse Tower was 
 not built until a couple of centuries after the bishop 
 died. Its real name was probably Mauth-Thurm, 
 or Tower of Customs, and its real purpose was prob- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 357 
 
 ably to assist in collecting tolls during the Middle 
 Ages. 
 
 Below this point, the gray relics of feudal times 
 increase in number. Nearly every rocky crag bears 
 the crumbling walls of some old castle, and every 
 point is rich in history and legend. Here and there, 
 these lordly habitations have been restored, and now 
 house in summer, nobility, or perhaps royalty. The 
 picturesque castle of Rheinstein, built so many years 
 ago that its early history is wholly lost, was restored 
 some fifty years ago by Prince Frederick of Prussia, 
 who also caused the restoration of the neighboring; 
 Clemen skirche. The castle of Reichenstein, or Fal- 
 kenburg, was, in the thirteenth century, the abode of 
 a band of marauders, under Philip von Hohenfels. It 
 was twice dismantled, the second time by the Em- 
 peror Rudolph of Hapsburg, who caused the robbers 
 to be hung. In 1689, the castle was destroyed by 
 the French, and now is in ruins. The slender tower 
 of Sooneck belongs to a castle which dates its exist- 
 ence back to 1015. This, too, was dismantled be- 
 cause it harbored marauders, but it has now been 
 restored. It belongs to the Prussian royal family. 
 The castle of Heinsburg has also been restored. The 
 ruined castle of Nollingen or Nollich, just below 
 Lorch, on the right bank, stands upon a cliff five hun- 
 dred and eighty-one feet above the river, and near it 
 is the "Devil's Ladder," where, as tradition tells us, 
 
358 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 a knight of Lorch, aided by mountain sprites, scaled 
 the heights on horseback, and thus gained the hand of 
 his lady-love. The castles of Furstenberg and Stah- 
 leck are in ruins. The former belongs to a sister of 
 the Emperor of Germany, and the latter was formerly 
 owned by the Dowager Queen of Prussia, a descendant 
 of the Counts Palatine who formerly lived there. The 
 castle of Stahleck rises above the ancient town of 
 Bacharach, once a famous wine-mart. 
 
 In the middle of the Rhine, just above the town of 
 Caub, rises the Pfalzgrafenstein, a castle which re- 
 sembles to some extent the castle of Chillon. History 
 says it was erected in the thirteenth century, as a toll- 
 house, but a legend ascribes a different origin to the 
 edifice. According to fiction, it was built as a prison 
 for the daughter of the Count Palatine Conrad, who 
 refused to marry the Emperor Henry VI. The young 
 princess already loved Henry of Brunswick. Aided 
 by the mother of the obstinate princess, the lover 
 gained access to the castle, and married her secretly. 
 As the princess was about to become a mother, the 
 countess disclosed the truth to her husband, who 
 capriciously passed a law that all future countesses 
 Palatinate should repair to the castle to await their 
 accouchments. The castle of Gutenfels rises pic- 
 turesquely behind the town of Caub. It was here the 
 English Earl of Cornwall, elected Emperor of Ger- 
 many in 1257, became enamored of the beautiful 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 359 
 
 Countess Beatrix of Falkenstein, whom he married 
 on the death of his first wife, twelve years later. 
 The ruins of the castle of Schonberg, near Ober- 
 wesel, marks the former dwelling-place of a mighty 
 soldier, Count Frederick Hermann of Schonberg, who 
 fought under the Prince of Orange, and with him 
 crossed to England. He lies buried in Westminster 
 Abbey. This castle once fell into the possession of 
 the Swedes. 
 
 We are now near the steep, rocky cliff known as 
 the Lurleiberg, which rises to the height of four hun- 
 dred and thirty-three feet above the river. This is 
 the place where the siren of the Rhine is supposed to 
 have dwelt, and to have lured sailors and fishermen to 
 their destruction. A railway company has utilized 
 the spot in a very unromantic way by making a tun- 
 nel through the cliff, and the shriek of the locomotive 
 is supposed to have frightened the seductive siren to 
 other and more sequestered haunts. The famous 
 whirlpool remains, but it does not present a very 
 dangerous appearance. 
 
 Near St. Goarhausen is the ruined castle of Neu- 
 Katzenelnbogen, commonly known as " The Cat." It 
 was erected in 1393 by Count Johann of Katzeneln- 
 bogen, whose family became extinct more than four 
 hundred years ago. Not far below is the ruins of the 
 castle of Thurnberg, or Deurenburg, which was deri- 
 sively called "The Mouse," in contradistinction from 
 
360 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 "The Cat" of Count Katzenelnbogen. This strong- 
 hold was begun by Archbishop Boemund of Treves, 
 and completed in 1363 by his successor, Kuno von 
 Falkenstein. On the opposite bank, just below St. 
 Goar, is the castle of Bheinftds, which stands three 
 hundred and seventy-seven feet above the w T ater, and 
 is the most imposing ruin on the Ehine. It was 
 founded as long ago as 1245, and has seen many 
 vicissitudes. In 1692, it was defended and held 
 against the French General Count Tallard, with an 
 army of twenty-four thousand men at his back, but 
 twice within the next century it was in French pos- 
 session. In 1797 it was blown up and sold for a sum 
 equivalent to three hundred dollars. The ruin now 
 belongs to the Emperor of Germany.. 
 
 The ruined castles of Sterrenberg and Leibenstein, 
 which are upon a rocky eminence above Bornhofen, 
 have an interesting history. They are called "The 
 Brothers," and, at the time of the Crusades, were 
 owned by the Knight Bayer Yon Boppard, whose two 
 sons, Conrad and Heinrich, became enamoured of their 
 foster sister, the beautiful Hilclegarde. Heinrich 
 joined the Crusades, leaving Conrad to win the prize, 
 and the old man built the castle of Sterrenberg, in 
 order that his son and the fair bride might be near 
 him. On account of the old man's death, the nuptials 
 were postponed, and Conrad's love soon grew cold. 
 Hearing of his brother's achievements, he, too, went 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 361 
 
 to the wars, and when he returned, he had with him a 
 lovely Grecian bride. Hildegarde shut herself up in 
 the loneliest chamber of the castle, refusing to see any 
 one except her attendant. Late one evening, a stranger 
 knight demanded the hospitality of the castle. He 
 proved to be the chivalrous Heinrich, who, hearing of 
 his brother's perfidy, resolved to avenge his foster 
 sister's wrongs. The brothers met for mortal combat, 
 but, before their swords had crossed, Hildegarde 
 interposed and insisted on a reconciliation. Hildegarde 
 then retired to the convent of Bornhofen, at the base 
 of the rock where the castles stand. Conrad's Grecian 
 bride soon proved faithless, and he, overcome with 
 shame and remorse, threw himself jon his generous 
 brother's breast, exclaiming that no consolation now 
 remained for him but his friendship. Thus their 
 estrangement ended, and the brothers dwelt together 
 at the castle of Leibenstein, while Sterrenberg was 
 forever deserted. 
 
 Bopparcl is an old Roman town situated on the left 
 bank of the Rhine, and just below this point, the 
 river makes an extensive bend, opening up new scenes 
 of beauty. The imposing castle of Marksburg, four 
 hundred and ninety-two feet above the Rhine, was 
 formerly used by the government of Nassau as a state- 
 prison. 
 
 The castle of Stolzenfels is one of the most beauti- 
 ful of all these ancient structures. It is four hundred 
 
362 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and twenty feet above the Rhine, and is situated only 
 a short distance above Coblenz. Almost directly 
 opposite, near the mouth of the river Lahn, is the 
 picturesque castle of Lahneck, which was the strong- 
 hold of the Templars after the martyrdom of De 
 Molay and his sixty knights in 1314. Stolzenfels is a 
 very ancient stronghold. It is owned by the Emperor 
 of Germany, and has been for the most part restored. 
 The castle of Lahneck has also been recently restored. 
 
 Coblenz is a large and handsome town of about 
 twenty-five thousand inhabitants, beautifully situated 
 at the mouth of the Moselle ; and on the opposite 
 bank is the frowning fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, the 
 " Gibraltar of th$ Rhine," perched upon a precipitous 
 rock, three hundred and eighty-seven feet above the 
 river. There are two bridges across the Rhine at this 
 point, one of boats and another for the railways. 
 
 Below Coblenz are more castles, among which are 
 those of Andernach, Hammerstein, Rheineck, and 
 Arenfels ; and several ancient and picturesque towns, 
 including Neuweid, Andernach, Linz, and Remagen. 
 
 The ancient counts who held their seats at the castle 
 of Rheineck, were from an early period lords of an 
 independent imperial fief, and towards the close of the 
 eighteenth century, one of them is said to have enjoyed 
 absolute sway over "twelve poor subjects, one Jew, 
 three farms, and one mill." On an eminence below 
 Remagen, is a beautiful Gothic church, built by the 
 late Count Furstenberg-Stammheim 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 363 
 
 Near Konigs winter, which is a short distance above 
 the university city of Bonn, are the ruins of the castle 
 of Rolandseck, and on an island in the river, half-hid- 
 den by foliage, is the ancient nunnery, which is re- 
 ferred to in the legend of Roland and Hildegunde. 
 The castle is believed to have been built by Roland, 
 who was a peer of France, and paladin of Charlemagne. 
 It is mentioned in a document of 1040. Tradition re- 
 lates that the knight ascended the Rhine in search of 
 adventure and found himself the guest of Count Heri- 
 bert, lord of the Seven Mountains, at his castle of 
 Drachenburg. According to custom, the daughter of 
 the host, the peerless Hildegunde, welcomed him. 
 Her beauty captivated him, and they became affianced 
 lovers. But their happiness was of short duration ; 
 Roland was summoned by Charlemagne to the Crusade. 
 Time sped on, and anxiously Hildegunde awaited the 
 return of her lover ; but he came not. The brave Ro- 
 land was said to have been slain, and as the world no 
 longer possessed a charm for Hildegunde, she took 
 refuge in the " Kloster," on the adjacent island of Non- 
 ncnwerth. The rumors of her lover's death were, 
 however, untrue, and he returned to find the object of 
 his love lost to him forever. In despair he built the 
 castle, of which only one crumbling arch now remains ; 
 and there he lived in solitude, catching an occasional 
 glimpse of a fair form passing to or from her devotions 
 in the little chapel. At length he missed her, and soon 
 
364 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the tolling bell and a mournful procession conveyed to 
 him the heartrending intelligence that his beloved Hilde- 
 gunde was now indeed removed forever. From that 
 moment he never spoke again ; for a short time he 
 dragged on his wretched existence, but his heart was 
 broken, and one morning his sole attendant found him 
 rigid and lifeless, his glassy eyes still turned towards 
 the convent chapel. 
 
 The Drachenfcls, or Dragon's Eock, is the nearest 
 of the Sicbcngeberge, or the Seven Mountains, which 
 stretch out northward from the Ehine : 
 
 " The castle crag of Drachenfels 
 
 Frowns o'er the wide and winding Ehine, 
 
 Whose breast of waters broadly swells 
 
 Between the banks which bear the vine, 
 
 And fields which promise corn and wine ; 
 
 Nor could on earth a spot be found 
 
 To nature and to mo so dear, 
 
 Could thy dear eyes in following mine, 
 
 Still sweeten more these banks of Ehine." 
 
 — Byron. 
 
 Here Siegfried is supposed to have slain the dragon, 
 whose blood made him invulnerable. The cavern 
 where the monster is said to have lived is in the midst 
 of the vineyards half-way up the hill. The wine 
 yielded by these vineyards is known as Drachenblut, 
 or Dragon's blood, but its -power of imparting the 
 same invulnerability that Siegfried is said to have 
 attained, may be doubted. The ruins of an ancient 
 castle, built at the beginning of the eleventh century, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 365 
 
 and afterwards occupied by the Counts of Drachen- 
 fels, crown the summit of the mountain. 
 
 Bonn is a charming city of about the same size as 
 Coblentz. It is famed not only for its university, but 
 also from having been the birthplace of Beethoven. 
 A bronze statue of the great composer occupies the 
 Miinsterplatz. Below Bonn there is not much worthy 
 of description, until Cologne, with its towering cathe- 
 dral, is reached. * 
 
 Cologne is the largest town in the Rhenish province 
 of Prussia, and general report ascribes to it the dis- 
 tinction of being the dirtiest. Some of its old streets 
 are narrow, ill-paved, and poorly drained, but the 
 newer thoroughfares are more cleanly. Coleridge 
 declares that he counted "two and seventy stenches," 
 and adds, in wicked verse, — 
 
 " The river Rhine, it is well known, 
 Doth wash the city of Cologne ; 
 But tell me, nymphs, what power divine, 
 Shall henceforth wash the river Ehine ? " 
 
 Some of these two and seventy stenches have dis- 
 appeared since Coleridge's time, perhaps to give place 
 to the scents of eau de Cologne, of which there are 
 forty " only genuine and original " makers in the city. 
 At all events, the city has been cruelly maligned, 
 although it is bad enough as it is. The city has about 
 one hundred and thirty thousand inhabitants, and 
 carries on a large commercial trade with the rest of 
 
366 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the world. Its commercial importance was estab- 
 lished in the Middle Ages. It is a place of great 
 antiquity, having been one of the chief Roman settle- 
 ments in this part of Europe. Agrippina, the mother 
 of the Emperor Nero, was born here in the camp of 
 her father, Germanicus, and A. d. 50 founded on the 
 site of the present city a colony of Roman veterans, 
 called "Colonia Agrippiensis," and afterward "Colonia 
 Claudia Agrippina." Hence the present name of the 
 city. In 308, Constantine began a bridge across the 
 the river, and the pillars are still to be seen when the 
 water is low. It subsequently became an important 
 city of the Franks, whose king, Clovis, was crowned 
 here. The inhabitants of Cologne are said to boast 
 still of their Roman descent, and to a certain extent 
 they keep up their affinity with Italy. In no part of 
 Europe north of the Alps is the carnival kept in such 
 style as in Cologne. 
 
 Having established ourselves at the Hotel Hollande, 
 fronting the pier, an achievement which seemed simple 
 enough when contemplated from the steamer's deck, 
 but which became more of a task when it was found 
 that the entrance was on the other side, up, around, 
 through, and about some narrow and dark little 
 streets, we sallied forth to view the cathedral, which 
 is the crowning glory of Cologne. This vast edifice 
 was begun in 1248, and is still unfinished. It is in a 
 fair way to be completed in a few years, however, under 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 367 
 
 the fostering care of the Emperor of Germany, who 
 has already expended between two and three millions 
 of dollars upon it. The greater part of this sum has 
 come from the royal coffers, while the remainder has 
 been collected from private subscriptions, societies, 
 cathedral lotteries, &c. The work of restoration and 
 completion was begun by Frederick William III., and 
 was continued by his successor. 
 
 The building is in the form of a cross, four hundred 
 and forty-four feet long, two hundred and one feet wide 
 (two hundred and eighty-two feet in the transepts) , and 
 two hundred and one feet high. The central tower 
 over the transept is three hundred and fifty-seven feet 
 in height. The two main tow T ers, when completed, 
 will reach the great height of five hundred aud eleven 
 feet, — forty-six feet in excess of the tower of Strass- 
 burg Cathedral, and nineteen feet in excess of the new 
 cathedral tower in Rouen. Several hundred men were 
 at work upon the edifice at the time of our visit. 
 Some facetious writer has denominated this magnificent 
 specimen of Gothic architecture the Church of the 
 Millennium, because it is constructed to hold more 
 worshippers than are ever likely to visit it while sin 
 reigns in this world ; and there is an old legend, to 
 the effect that the original design was furnished by the 
 Devil, and that the edifice can, therefore, never be 
 finished. It is a lamentable fact that the most ancient 
 parts of the cathedral — the pillars and foundations — 
 
3 68 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 are already in a forward state of decay, and Prof. 
 Heim of Zurich has pointed out the danger of the 
 prostration of the entire edifice. Even the original 
 designs of the building have been lost, and its con- 
 tinued construction, and expected completion, will be 
 in accordance with the ideas of later architects. The 
 real architect of the cathedral, as is seen to-day, was 
 Zwirner, a master of Gothic art, celebrated throughout 
 Europe, who died in 1861. The work is now being 
 executed in accordance with his plans. The lofty in- 
 terior, the rich, stained-glass windows (some ancient 
 and some modern) , and the magnificent proportions of 
 the whole structure, impress one deeply. The ex- 
 terior is, however, on account of its richness, as well 
 as its vastness, more impressive than the interior. 
 The main portal is no less than ninety-three feet high. 
 The choir, which is separated from the nave by an iron 
 screen, was completed in 1322. It is flanked by 
 seven chapels, in which are a few paintings and several 
 interesting monuments. 
 
 The treasury of the church contains many relics, 
 which are interesting to look upon, whether they are 
 all they pretend to be or not. For instance, the skulls 
 of the Magi, or Three Kings, — Caspar, Melchior, and 
 Balthazar, — who journeyed to Bethlehem to adore the 
 infant Saviour, are here shown, — for a fee, of course. 
 The traveller could not expect such a " show " to be 
 set up for nothing. They are encircled with golden 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 369 
 
 crowns, and the reliquary in which they are preserved 
 was once gorgeously adorned with gold and precious 
 stones. Most of these latter disappeared at the time 
 Cologne was held by the French, towards the end of 
 the last century. The remains were brought by the 
 Empress Helena to Constantinople. They were after- 
 wards taken to Milan, and, in 1164, presented by 
 Frederick Barbarossa to Archbishop Reiald, by whom 
 they were removed to Cologne. The remains of St. 
 Engelbert are preserved in a silver shrine, which, of 
 itself, weighs one hundred and forty-nine pounds, and 
 there is no end of magnificent vestments, ecclesiastical 
 vessels, monstrances, &c, some of which are of count- 
 less value, being studded with diamonds, and other 
 precious stones. It would require extended space to 
 describe, even briefly, the many rare objects contained 
 in this apartment. 
 
 From the cathedral we proceeded to the Church of 
 St. Ursula, or the Church of the Eleven Thousand Vir- 
 gins. This is an ancient edifice, built at the be«rinnin2T 
 of the eleventh century by the Emperor Henry II. 
 St. Ursula was a princess of Britanny, who, with the 
 modest retinue of eleven thousand vestals, made a pil- 
 grimage to Rome about fourteen hundred years ago. 
 As she returned down the Rhine, her party encountered 
 ihe cruel Huns, who overran the country at that time, 
 and who murdered the entire eleven thousand. The 
 bones of this numerous band of martyrs are disposed 
 
370 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 about the church ill glass cases, inserted in the walls . 
 on shelves, around the cornices, — in short, every- 
 where : and the walls and ceiling of the treasury of the 
 church is literally lined and covered with ghastly 
 relics. Skulls peer down upon you from every niche, 
 or are preserved in metallic busts, and pious inscrip- 
 tions are spelled out, with other osseous remains of 
 the unfortunate women. There are said to be eighteen 
 hundred skulls within the church, and seven hundred 
 and thirty-two others in the treasury. Some are orna- 
 mented with precious stones, worked into bands of 
 bead-work by pious hands. The visitor may examine 
 the phrenological developments on the sconce of St. 
 Ursula, or of half a dozen other saints whose mortal 
 remains are here displayed. There are many other 
 curiosities in the treasury, including three thorns from 
 the Saviour's crown (there are said to be two com- 
 plete crowns in Jerusalem, some at Rome, some at 
 Venice, and one at Notre Dame, in Paris), and one of 
 the vessels used in the Saviour's miracle of turning 
 water into wine at the marriage-feast of Cana in Gali- 
 lee. 
 
 There are other churches in Cologne worthy of a 
 visit : for example, Great St. Martin, the most con- 
 spicuous edifice in the city after the cathedral ; that 
 of St. Pantaleon, which is known to have existed as 
 early 670 ; and that of St. Gereon, where are pre- 
 served the bones of four hundred and eight martyrs of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 371 
 
 the Theban Legion, with their captains, Gereon and 
 Gregory (afterwards the patron saints of Cologne), 
 who perished here in 286 during the persecution of the 
 Christians under Diocletian. Some of the churches 
 also contain some interesting paintings, and the house 
 where Rubens, it is claimed, was born is also shown. 
 In the same street, the Sterneugasse, is the house where 
 Marie de Medicis, widow of Henry IV. of France, 
 died in exile in 1642. Her heart was buried in front 
 of one of the choir chapels of the cathedral. There 
 are two bridges connecting Cologne with the town of 
 Deutz. One of these is a stately affair of iron, which 
 serves for both railway and ordinary traffic, with an 
 equestrian statue of Frederick William IV. at one end, 
 and one of William I. at the other. The second one 
 is constructed of boats, and is the first structure of this 
 kind encountered in ascending the Rhine. There are 
 other bridges of this kind at Coblenz, Mayence, and 
 Kehl, near Strassburg. A statue to Bismarck has 
 lately been erected in Cologne. 
 
 On the north side of the Neumarkt, near the 
 Apostles' Church, is a house with two horses' heads 
 affixed to the* upper story. " Thereby hangs a tale." 
 When Cologne was ravaged by the plague three hun- 
 dred and twenty-years ago, Richmoclis von Lyskir- 
 chen, wife of the knight Mengis von Aclocht, who re- 
 sided in this house, was attacked by the malady, and 
 having fallen into a death-like swoon, was interred in 
 
372 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the Apostles' Church. Being awakened from her 
 trance by a thievish grave-digger in his attempts to 
 abstract her ring, she returned to the house of her 
 husband, who was naturally astonished at the sight. 
 Imagining it to be an apparition, he declared he would 
 sooner believe that his horses would ascend to the loft 
 of his house than that his departed spouse should put 
 in a personal appearance. Scarcely had he uttered 
 these words than the clatter of the animals' feet where 
 heard upon the stairs. The horses soon mounted to 
 the top, and their heads were seen looking out of an 
 uppermost window. The lady recovered, and lived 
 many years afterwards, and the miraculous event is 
 commemorated in the manner described. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 373 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 
 
 From Cologne to Brussels — Aix-la-Chapelle — Liege — Lou vain — 
 Belgium's Capital — The Hotel de Ville and the Guild Halls — 
 The Galerie St. Hubert — The Cathedral of Ste. Gudule — The 
 Park and the Neighboring Palaces — The Museum of Paintings 
 
 — The Wiertz Museum — Monuments, Statues, and Fountains — 
 The Conservatoire de Musique — The Lace Manufactories — 
 The Battle-field of Waterloo — Mechlin — Antwerp in Gala 
 Attire — The Cathedral and its Art Treasures — Quentin Mat- 
 sys's Well — The Church of St. Jacques — Celebrated Works of 
 Art — Eubens and his Pictures — A Quaint Church Exhibition 
 
 — The Plantin Museum — The Zuid-Bev eland of Holland — 
 A Glimpse of the Land of Dikes and Ditches — Crossing the 
 North Sea — Back again in London. 
 
 The distance from Cologne to Brussels by the most 
 direct railway route is one hundred and forty-one 
 miles, and the traveller passes through Diiren, Aachen 
 (Aix-la-Chapelle), Verviers, Liege, and Louvain, all 
 of which are places of considerable importance, 
 Aachen and Liege being quite large cities. The 
 scenery by the way is everywhere charming to look 
 upon, the country being for the most part rich and 
 fruitful, but it is not of that striking character to 
 enchain the attention after the passage of the Rhine, 
 which inevitably makes all ordinary scenery seem 
 
374 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 tame in comparison. A portion of the route lies 
 through a mining district. 
 
 Diiren, some twenty -five miles from Cologne, is a 
 busy manufacturing place, situated in a fertile plain 
 on the river Roer. Aix-la-Chapelle, as the ancient 
 city of Charlemagne is generally known to the world, 
 although the Germans still persist in calling it Aachen, 
 is forty-three miles from Cologne. Although a very 
 ancient city, the Aix-la-Chapelle of to-day is compara- 
 tively modern. It lies in a fertile basin, surrounded 
 by gently sloping hills, and the ancient walls made the 
 city circular in form. The population is between 
 seventy and eighty thousand. Charlemagne was born 
 and died here, and the town became the second city in 
 his empire, and the capital of his dominions north of 
 the Alps. From his death, in 814, down to the acces- 
 sion of Ferdinand I., in 1531, it was the scene of the 
 coronation of thirty-seven German emperors. The 
 insignia of empire were preserved here until 1793, 
 wdien they were transferred to Vienna. Aix-la-Cha- 
 pelle has frequently been the scene of imperial diets, 
 ecclesiastical conventions, and congresses ; and several 
 important peace negotiations have been concluded 
 here. The cathedral, corn exchange, rathhaus, and a few 
 ^ates are all that remain of the ancient town. In the 
 cathedral is the tomb of Charlemagne. It was opened 
 in the year 1000, by Otho III., nearly two hundred 
 years after his death, and the body of the great 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 375 
 
 emperor was found seated on a marble throne. This 
 throne was afterwards used for the coronation cere- 
 monies of the emperors, and it is now preserved in 
 the gallery, or Hochmiinster, together with a sarco- 
 phagus of Parian marble, in which the remains 
 of Charlemagne reposed one hundred and sixty-five 
 years after the first ojxening of the tomb. In the 
 sacristy are what are termed the " Great Belies," con- 
 sisting of what are claimed to be a robe of the Virgin 
 Mary, the swaddling clothes of the infant Saviour, the 
 cloth with which Christ was girded on the cross, and the 
 cloth with which the body of John the Baptist was cov- 
 ered after execution. These objects are held in great 
 veneration, and are disclosed to view only once in seven 
 years. The lesser relics, which are disclosed to pub- 
 lic view on the payment of the showman's fee, include 
 a part of the " true cross," the leathern girdle of 
 Christ, the girdle of the Virgin, &c. The skull, a 
 gigantic bone (said to be the arm-bone, but really the 
 leg-bone), and hunting-horn of Charlemagne are 
 also preserved here. A part of the cathedral was 
 erected by Charlemagne between 796 and 804. 
 
 Between the stations of Herbesthal and Dolhain we 
 crossed the line from Germany into Belgian territory ; 
 and at Verviers, an important manufacturing place of 
 between thirty thousand and forty thousand inhabi- 
 tants, situated on the river Vesdre, we were met by the 
 Belgic custom-house officers. These officials were 
 
376 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 quite as courteous and considerate as those we had 
 previously encountered in France and Germany, and 
 the delay caused by their examination of luggage 
 was very slight. The little town of Herbesthal is the 
 place of examination on the Prussian side of the line, 
 if the traveller is moving the other way, although 
 trunks are generally permitted to be carried to Aix-la- 
 Chapelle or Cologne before inspection, if the passen- 
 ger is ticketed through to either point. 
 
 Liege, the capital of the Walloon district, and for- 
 merly the seat of a principality of that name, has over 
 one hundred thousand inhabitants, and is picturesquely 
 situated on the river Meuse. The city is engaged 
 largely in manufacturing, and the coal mines, which 
 form the basis of its commercial prosperity, are situ- 
 ated in the immediate vicinity, and some of them 
 extend beneath the houses and the river. One of the 
 chief branches of industry carried on here is the 
 manufacture of arms, and in many instances the Wal- 
 loons have not scrupled to use the weapons in the 
 making of which they excel. There have been fre- 
 quent insurrections, and many times foreign armies 
 have been called in to chastise the rebellious natives. 
 The ancient bishops of Liege, who were constituted 
 temporal princes by the German emperors, maintained 
 a body-guard of five hundred men, and Walloon sol- 
 diers, like the Swiss, were in the habit of serving in 
 the armies of Spain, France, and Austria. They 
 
THE HOTEL DE VILLE, KRUSSELS. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 377 
 
 enjoyed a high reputation for bravery, which has been 
 justly extolled by Schiller in his " Wallenstein." 
 
 Louvain, one hundred and twenty-three miles from 
 Cologne, and eighteen from Brussels, is an old walled 
 city which has wholly lost its ancient prestige. It is 
 situated on the river Dyle, which empties into the 
 Eupel, an effluent of the Schelde. The present pop- 
 ulation is not far from thirty-four thousand. In the 
 fourteenth century, when Louvain was the capital of 
 the Duchy of Brabant, and the residence of the princes, 
 the number was more than ten thousand greater. 
 Here, as in other Flemish towns, the weavers formed 
 a very turbulent class, and always manifested great 
 jealousy of the influence of the nobles in their civic 
 administration. During an insurrection in 1378, 
 thirteen magistrates of noble family were thrown from 
 the windows of the Hotel de Ville, and received by 
 the populace below on the points of their spears ; but 
 Duke Wenceslaus besieged and took the city, and 
 compelled the citizens to crave his pardon with every 
 token of abject humiliation. The power of the nobles 
 soon regained its ascendancy, and their tyrannical 
 sway caused thousands of the industrious citizens to 
 emigrate to England. The decay of Louvain began 
 at that period. The present Hotel de Ville, erected 
 about the middle of the fifteenth century, is a rich 
 and beautiful example of late Gothic architecture. 
 
 We arrived at Brussels after a railway ride of nearly 
 
378 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 six hours, and were soon comfortably established at 
 the Hotel de la Poste, in the Rue Fosse-aux-Loups, 
 ready to begin in real earnest our inspection of the 
 "miniature Paris," as the capital of Belgium is 
 frequently called. The title is not inappropriate, for 
 there are many marks of resemblance between the 
 two cities. These may be traced in the general 
 aspect, in the style of building, in the disposition and 
 adornment of the handsome boulevards and public 
 parks, and in the tastes and customs of the people. 
 Above all, the prevailing language spoken in Brussels 
 is the French. The Burgundian princes, who long 
 ago resided here, were generally surrounded by a 
 large retinue of French knights, and even at that 
 period French became the most fashionable language 
 among the nobility of the Netherlands. Thus the 
 character of the city and its inhabitants gradually 
 developed itself; the court and nobility, with their 
 French language and manners, establishing themselves 
 in the upper part, while the lower quarters were chiefly 
 occupied by the trading community and lower classes, 
 whose language and character were essentially Flemish. 
 These characteristics of the upper and lower parts of 
 the city, are distinctly recognizable at the present day. 
 French is still the language of the upper classes, and 
 Flemish that of the lower. In the best shops, both 
 languages are spoken. Brussels has one advantage 
 over Paris, — at least for the tourist. It is smaller. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 379 
 
 Its parks, promenades, museums, and other objects of 
 interest are within a comparatively narrow compass. 
 The area of the entire kingdom is only eleven thou- 
 sand three hundred and seventy-three square miles, — 
 only a little larger than the State of Maryland, and 
 less than one-quarter the size of the State of New 
 York. Only eight out of all the United States of 
 America are of less area than Belgium. But not- 
 withstanding its comparative insignificance, geographi- 
 cally, Belgium is of much importance politically, hold- 
 ing as it does the balance of power, to some extent 
 at least, among the greater nations. The population 
 of Brussels is about one hundred and seventy-five 
 thousand, or, with its eight suburbs, about three hun- 
 dred and twenty-five thousand. There are twelve 
 thousand German, and six thousand English residents. 
 Most of the latter reside in or near the handsome 
 Quartier Leopold. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville is by far the most interesting 
 edifice in Brussels. It is of irregular quadrangular 
 form, one hundred and ninety-eight feet in width, and 
 one hundred and sixty-five feet in depth, and encloses 
 an open court. The principal facade is in the Gothic 
 style, the east half having been begun in 1402, and 
 the west forty-one years later. A graceful tower of 
 open Gothic-work, built wholly of stone, rises to the 
 great height of three hundred and seventy feet ; but 
 for some unexplained reason it does not occupy the 
 
380 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 centre of the facade. The edifice fronts upon a 
 spacious square, — the Grande Place, — and is there- 
 fore seen to the best possible advantage. The spire 
 terminates in a gilded metal figure of the Archangel 
 Michael, sixteen feet in height, which serves as a vane. 
 It was constructed in 1454. The rooms and corridors 
 contain some good paintings, chiefly portraits, and 
 some old tapestry. In one apartment are some fine 
 frescos by Janssens. The large banquet-hall is a 
 spacious and very handsome apartment which has 
 recently been decorated in Gothic style, with carved 
 oak ceilings. It is often said that the famous ball 
 given by the Duchess of Richmond, on the eve of the 
 battle of Waterloo, took place here, but it is an error. 
 That celebrated scene of " revelry by night " occurred 
 at a mansion in the Rue Roy ale. In the Salle des 
 Manages, where the civil part of the marriage cere- 
 mony is performed, Counts Egmont and Hoorne were 
 condemned to death in 1568 by the cruel Duke of 
 Alva, and in the neighboring square those noble 
 patriots were executed, while the wicked tyrant 
 viewed the scene from a window. 
 
 Some of the old guild-houses still adorn the Grande 
 Place, although most of these edifices now standing 
 have been restored. They suffered much damage dur- 
 ing the bombardment of the town by Louis XIV. in 
 1695. The old hall of the Guild of Butchers is indi- 
 cated by a swan. The Hotel des Brasseurs bears on 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 381 
 
 its gable a gilded equestrian statue of Duke Charles 
 of Lorraine. This building has been lately restored, 
 and the statue is modern. The Hall of the Carpenters 
 is richly adorned with gilding. The gable of the Hall 
 of the Skippers resembles the stern of a vessel with 
 protruding cannon. The Maison de laLouve, or Hall 
 of the Archers, derives its name from a group repre- 
 senting Romulus and Remus with the she-wolf. 
 
 Near the Grande Place, leading from the Rue 
 Marche aux Herbes, is the entrance to the Passage, or 
 Galerie St. Hubert, a spacious and extensive arcade 
 with a great number of shops, which present a brilliant 
 appearance when lighted. The Galerie is seven hun- 
 dred and two feet in length, seventy-eight feet in 
 width, and fifty feet in height. At the time of our 
 visit, extensive preparations were being made here, 
 and in other parts of the city, for a grand illumination 
 in honor of the silver wedding of King Leopold II. 
 and his Queen. The festivities were to continue four 
 days. 
 
 The Cathedral of Ste. Gudule and St. Michel is an 
 imposing Gothic structure which was erected in the 
 twelfth and fourteenth centuries. It contains several 
 fine monuments, but its chief features of interest are 
 some beautiful stained-glass windows, and a curiously- 
 carved pulpit. The windows represent different 
 periods, from the thirteenth century to the present 
 time. One of the windows represents the Last Judg- 
 
382 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ment, and is remarkable for the crowd of figures 
 introduced. It was the work of F. Floris. The pul- 
 pit was originally in the Church of the Jesuits at Lou- 
 vain, and was executed in 1699 by Verbruggen. It is 
 a representation in carved wood of the Expulsion from 
 Paradise. Anions? the foliage are various kinds of 
 animals, including a bear, dog, cat, squirrel, ape, &c. 
 The ape is represented eating an apple. Above is the 
 Virgin with the infant, who crushes the head of the 
 serpent with the cross. 
 
 The Park, though not extensive, is handsomely laid 
 out and finely shaded. It contains several fine foun- 
 tains, and in one corner is a concert garden and a 
 theatre. During the summer, evening concerts are 
 given by the orchestra of the Theatre de la Monnaie, 
 under MM. Duponts and Warnots. At one end of 
 the park is the King's Palace, and at the opposite end 
 is the Palace of the Nation, formerty the place of 
 meeting for the old Council of Brabant, and now occu- 
 pied for the sittings of tb<i Belgian Senate and House 
 of Deputies. The royal palace is devoid of interest. 
 King Leopold has a summer chateau at Laeken, a few 
 miles distant from Brussels. The Ducal Palace, for- 
 merly occupied by the Prince of Orange, is near the 
 King's Palace. It has been occupied until recently as 
 a museum of paintings by modern Belgian masters. 
 The Palace of the Nation contains some interesting 
 paintings and groups of statuary. The vestibule is 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 383 
 
 adorned with modern statues of ancient Flemish 
 worthies, including Pepin of Heristal (died in 714), 
 and Count Baldwin of Flanders, who became Emperoi 
 of Byzantium. In the centre of the vestibule are four 
 allegorical figures representing the freedom of the 
 press, of religion, of associations, and of instruction. 
 The Museum is a spacious and well-arranged build- 
 ing, containing, in addition to a collection of paintings, 
 both ancient and modern, a natural history collection, 
 and a Galerie Historique, containing pictures and busts 
 recalling important events and personages connected 
 with the history- of Belgium. The building was the 
 residence of the Austrian stadtholders of the Nether- 
 lands after 1713, when the old ducal palace was 
 destroyed by fire. A chapel near the entrance is used 
 as a Protestant place of worship, and services are held 
 there every Sunday in English,*- French, and German. 
 The Musee de Peinture has recently been considerably 
 enlarged by the addition of the fine collection of mod- 
 ern works formerly kept at th ■ Palais Ducal, or Musee 
 Moderne. The gallery of the old masters contains 
 pictures by Rubens, Teniers, Jorclaens, Janssens, Van 
 Dyck, Paolo Veronese, Guido Rcni, and other famous 
 painters. The Rubens pictures are by no means his 
 best, but there are two gems by Teniers (the younger) , 
 one representing a Flemish fair, and the other the 
 interior of a picture gallery. The former cost the 
 government, in 1867, when it was purchased of the 
 
384 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Boschaert family at Antwerp, one hundred and twenty- 
 five thousand francs. Among the pictures by Rubens 
 is one representing the martyrdom of St. Ursula and 
 her companions at Cologne. The collection of modern 
 works includes paintings by Verboeckhoven, Czermak, 
 De Braekleer, Van Bree, and others, some of them 
 being of great merit. Adjoining the Museum is the 
 Palais de PIndustrie, which contains the polytechnic 
 school and the royal library ; and the University is 
 in the same neighborhood. Not far from these build- 
 ings, too, are both the old Palais de Justice, and the 
 new edifice of the same name. The 'latter is a large 
 and very imposing structure. 
 
 The Musee Wiertz is a collection of pictures painted 
 by the eccentric artist of that name, who never sold 
 any of his works while living. After his death they 
 were, purchased by the government. Some of the 
 pictures exhibit great power, but most of the subjects 
 are of a horrifying character, as a few of the titles 
 may indicate, to wit: "Child Burnt to Death," "A 
 too Hasty Burial," "Hunger, Folly, and Crime," 
 "Suicide," "Thoughts and Visions of a Head after 
 Decapitation," " The Devil's Mirror," " A Scene in the 
 Infernal Regions," &c. "A Scene in the Infernal 
 Regions " is a representation of Napoleon in hell, sur- 
 rounded by torturing and taunting demons. One of 
 the most horrible pictures represents a maniac mother, 
 in a dimly-lighted room, in the act of cutting up one 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 385 
 
 of her children with a butcher-knife and putting the 
 pieces into a pot boiling upon the fire. The picture 
 is viewed through a small aperture in a wall, which 
 has apparently been overlooked by the woman, who 
 has carefully covered every other key-hole and crevice. 
 There are numerous semi-nude pictures, and even the 
 Belgian lady to whom the painter was to have been 
 married is represented in questionable taste. In one 
 place you behold the figure of a scantily-clad female 
 through a half-open door, and in another you discover 
 your own reflected face beneath a monk's cowl, as you 
 gaze through an aperture in the wall. The gallery 
 abounds in similar surprises. Two or three of the 
 pictures are familiar through prints and photographs 
 the world over. 
 
 Brussels contains several noteworthy monuments 
 and statues. The Colonne d.u Congres, erected to 
 commemorate the congress of June 4, 1831, by which 
 the present constitution of Belgium was established, 
 and Prince Leopold, of Saxe-Coburg, elected king, — 
 a tall column of the Doric order, surmounted by *a 
 statue of King Leopold I. , — rises in the Place du Con- 
 gres, which adjoins the Eue Royaie. The Martyrs' 
 Monument is an elaborate memorial to the Belgians 
 who fell in the decisive struggle with the Dutch, Sep- 
 tember 23 and 24, 1830. A figure represents liber- 
 ated Belgium engraving on a tablet those memorable 
 days, and on marble slabs are the names of four hun- 
 
386 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 drecl and forty-eight men who gave up their life-blood 
 for their country. The substructure of the mon- 
 ument rises in a sunken gallery. The monument, 
 which was designed by W. Geefs, stands in the Place 
 des Martyrs, near the Rue Neuve. In front of the 
 King's Palace are colossal statues of Counts Egmont 
 and Hoorne ; and in front of the handsome Church 
 of St. Jacques sur Coudenberg, is a superb equestrian 
 statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, which is said to stand 
 on the very spot where, in 1097, the knight exhorted 
 the inhabitants of Brussels to participate in the Cru- 
 sade. At a little distance in rear of the Hotel de 
 Ville, at the corner of the Rue du Chene and the Rue 
 de l'Etuve, stands one of the most famous of all the 
 fountains and monuments in the city, the little Man- 
 nikin. It is remarkable as an object of art only on 
 account of its close imitation of nature. It may be 
 remarked, however, that the Mannikin is greatly ven- 
 erated by the lower classes, and that he is provided at 
 public expense with a valet, who on fete days dresses 
 him in some one of the eight suits kept for the special 
 purpose, several of which have been royal gifts. 
 Once or twice the little figure has been carried off by 
 sacrilegious hands, and his disappearance was regarded 
 as a public calamity. 
 
 The Conservatoire Royal de Musique of Brussels is 
 well known as one of the leading music schools in 
 Europe, especially for imparting instruction upon cer- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 387 
 
 tain instruments. The director is F. A. Gevaert, 
 who also occupies the position of inspector-general of 
 all the royal music-schools of Belgium, some forty in 
 number. The Brussels Conservatoire is a copy, in 
 many respects, of the Paris Conservatoire, and it 
 holds about the same parental relationship to the other 
 music-schools of the country that the Paris institution 
 does to the provincial schools of Lille, Toulouse, Di- 
 jon, Nantes, and Lyons. It nevertheless has an indi- 
 viduality of its own. The list of its forty-five profes- 
 sors includes such honored names as Yieuxtemps, 
 Joseph Dupont, August Dupont, Warnots, Brassin, 
 Servais, Mailly, Colyns, and De Swert. M. Faure, 
 the celebrated baritone, is named as the inspecteur des 
 cours de chant. The rooms of the Conservatoire, 
 which are situated on the Rue cle la Regence, near the 
 Park, were kindly thrown open to Dr. Tourjee and 
 the members of his party. They contain a large col- 
 lection of modern and ancient instruments, gathered 
 from all parts of the world. These are classified 
 with much care, and an elaborate descriptive and ana- 
 lytical catalogue has been in part prepared and pub- 
 lished. Some of these* instruments were contributed 
 through the King of Belgium, and many came from 
 the Fetis collection. The museum is not as large nor 
 as rich as the one connected with the Paris Conserva- 
 toire, but is nevertheless very interesting. 
 
 Brussels is a musical city, and both concerts and 
 
38& A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 operatic performances abound during the fashionable 
 season. The chief theatre is in the Place de la Mon- 
 naie, where the royal mint is also situated ; a signifi- 
 cant conjunction, since the opera receives a subvention 
 from the government, and the people are fond of 
 music. Some bas-reliefs on the tympanum of the 
 theatre facade, by Simonis, represent the Harmony of 
 Human Passions. The lace manufactories, of course, 
 constitute a peculiar and most interesting feature of 
 Brussels. Visitors are admitted to the workrooms, 
 and are given every facility to observe the process of 
 manufacture, and also to purchase the manufactured 
 product. About one hundred and thirty thousand 
 women are employed in lace manufacture in Belgium, 
 and the value of the product is about fifty millions of 
 francs. 
 
 A visit to the battle-field of Waterloo, about a 
 dozen miles from Brussels, may be performed either 
 by coach, or by railway and connecting carriages. A 
 favorite way is to ride out on the English coaches, 
 which leave Brussels every morning. Guides who 
 speak English, German, and French are in readiness 
 to conduct visitors over the ground and to rehearse 
 all the incidents of the memorable struggle of June 
 18, 1815, in which Napoleon's star sank in disaster. 
 From the summit of an artificial mound erected on the 
 spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded, and 
 beneath which the bones of all who fell on both sides 
 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 389 
 
 were interred, a comprehensive survey may be taken 
 of the scene of the conflict ; and the various places in 
 the vicinity which are inseparably connected with the 
 great event, can be identified. This mound is sur- 
 mounted by a huge lion, weighing twenty-eight tons, 
 cast from the captured French cannon. In 1832, the 
 French soldiers, on their march to Antwerp, hacked off 
 a portion of the animal's tail, but Marshal Gerard 
 protected the monument from further injury. From 
 this elevation it may be judged, to a great extent, 
 how the famous battle was fought, as the guide indi- 
 cates the various positions occupied by the armies of 
 Napoleon and Wellington, and the direction from 
 which Blucher and his troops approached. There are 
 other monuments in the vicinity, and there is a 
 museum containing relics of the battle. A Prussian 
 monument near the village of Plancenoit, suffered 
 some damage at the hands of the French soldiers in 
 1832, at the same time the Belgian lion was shorn of 
 a part of his tail ; but the injury has been repaired. 
 
 From Brussels to Antwerp is only twenty-six and a 
 half miles, and nearly half-way between the two cities 
 is the ancient town of Malines, or Mechlin, noted, 
 like Brussels, for its laces, although in this respect, 
 as in everything else, the place has allowed other 
 towns to get ahead and reap an advantage. The un- 
 enterprising character of the inhabitants has been 
 manifested for centuries. In 1551, the magistrates 
 
390 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 exerted all their influence to prevent the canal be- 
 tween Antwerp and Brussels from being constructed 
 so as to pass near their town. Two centuries later, 
 precisely the same policy was pursued in relation to 
 the canal from Antwerp to Louvain ; and on the con- 
 struction of the railway the corporation refused to 
 allow the station to be built within its walls, so that 
 the traveller, if he designs to visit Malines, must 
 alight some distance from it. The place has some 
 thirty- five thousand inhabitants, is handsomely laid 
 out, and contains several interesting churches and 
 other buildings. The cathedral, which was begun in 
 the thirteenth century, has an unfinished tower three 
 hundred and twenty feet high, its projected height 
 being four hundred and sixty feet. The following 
 lines, written many years ago by a monk to describe 
 the characteristics of the leading Belgian towns, would 
 seem to be as true regarding Malines to-day as then : 
 
 "Nobilibus Bruxella viris, Antwerpia niimmis, 
 Gaudavum laqueis, formosis Bruga puellis, 
 Lovanium doctis, gaudet Mechlinia stultis." 
 
 Eendered into English, this inscription informs us 
 that Brussels rejoices in noble men, Antwerp in 
 money, Ghent in halters, Bruges in pretty girls, 
 Louvain in learned men, and Malines in fools. The 
 unenviable reputation of the citizens of Malines for 
 stupidity originated in the story that they once mis^ 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 391 
 
 took the moon, shining through their tower, for a 
 conflagration, and endeavored to extinguish it by 
 means of the fire-engines. 
 
 Antwerp is one of the most flourishing of Euro- 
 pean commercial cities, but on account of its art 
 treasures is it chiefly interesting to the traveller. Our 
 visit chanced to fall upon a fete day, the celebration of 
 the Assumption of the Virgin, which was the occasion 
 of special pomp and circumstance within the cathe- 
 dral. The flags of Belgium, of Antwerp, and of the 
 Romish Church fluttered from house-fronts in every 
 street, and there were preparations for illuminations 
 around the shrines placed in the street walls. The 
 shops were closed and the churches were thronged. 
 There were many thousands of flags displayed in the 
 city. 
 
 At the great cathedral, one of the finest Gothic 
 edifices in all Europe, the image of the Virgin Mary 
 stood upon a high platform, decked in costly robes and 
 jewels, while huge banners were hung upon the walls. 
 A million and a half of francs was estimated as the 
 value of the dress, jewels, and golden crown with 
 which the figure was adorned. There are three hun- 
 dred pictures in the cathedral, including Rubens's 
 greatest works, "The Elevation of the Cross," "The 
 Descent from the Cross," "The Assumption of the 
 Virgin," and "The Resurrection." Another cele- 
 brated picture here to be seen is the " Head of the 
 
392 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Saviour," by Leonardo da Vinci. Of all Eubens's 
 works, "The Descent from the Cross" is unquestion- 
 ably the greatest. The picture is very striking, and 
 is full of marvellous effects in color. The principal 
 figure is drawn with great power, and the attitude is 
 strongly expressive of the inertness of a dead body. 
 The white linen on which the body of the Saviour lies 
 forms an effective part of the composition. 
 
 The cathedral contains, in addition to the numerous 
 pictures, some wonderful carvings in wood, including 
 a pulpit by Van der Voort. The open-work Gothic 
 spire, or tower, is four hundred and four feet high, 
 and one of the handsomest in the world. Charles V. 
 is said to have declared that it ought to be kept in a 
 glass case, and Napoleon compared it to Mechlin lace. 
 It contains a carillon of ninety-nine bells. From the 
 top of the spire there is, of course, a fine view of Ant- 
 werp and of the river Schelde, upon the bank of which 
 the city lies. The edifice dates back to 1322, but the 
 tower (which, with the facade, was designed by Jean 
 Ammel, of Boulogne, in 1422) was not finished until 
 the sixteenth century. The building is three hundred 
 and eighty-four feet in length, the nave has a width of 
 one hundred and seventy-one feet, the transepts ex- 
 tend two hundred and thirteen feet, and the height is 
 one hundred and thirty feet. Near the cathedral is 
 Quentin Matsys's Well. The interest attaching to it 
 is on account of an iron canopy, which was constructed 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 393 
 
 by the famous painter in 1529, before he quitted the 
 occupation of a blacksmith. Tradition has it that he 
 loved the daughter of a painter, and to distinguish 
 himself, and so gain favor, abandoned the anvil for the 
 palette. 
 
 In the Church of St. Jacques are several fine pic- 
 tures by Rubens , Martin de Vos, Jordaens, Van Dyck, 
 and other famous artists ; some works by Geefs the 
 sculptor, and the tomb of Rubens. Antwerp is the 
 city of Rubens, and the visitor is continually coming 
 upon some memento of the great painter. The house 
 he occupied is carefully preserved, and on the Place 
 Verte is a statue erected in his honor. Antwerp also 
 contains handsome statues of Teniers and Van Dyck. 
 
 The Museum of Antwerp is filled with rare pictures, 
 including some of the most celebrated paintings by 
 Rubens, Van Dyck, Quentin Mutsys, Teniers, Rem- 
 brandt, Otto Venius (the teacher of Rubens), Holbein, 
 Jordaens, Van Eyck, Der Weyden, Steen, Van Veen, 
 De Braekleer, and many others. There are in this col- 
 lection some six hundred pictures, most of which were 
 taken from the suppressed churches and monasteries 
 of Antwerp. The picture-gallery itself, indeed, occu- 
 pies a suppressed monastery of the Minorites. The 
 most important works in the museum are fourteen 
 pictures by Rubens, and six by Van Dyck. Among 
 the former are "Christ Crucified between the Two 
 Thieves," "The Adoration of the Magi," "The Holy 
 
394 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Family" (known as "La Vierge au Perroquet," on 
 account of the parrot at the s,ide), and "The Com- 
 munion of St. Jerome." Van Dyck's pictures were 
 formerly church-decorations. Quentin Matsys's " Dead 
 Saviour," which is regarded as his greatest work, may 
 also be seen here. It was formerly an altar-piece in 
 the cathedral. The museum is owned by the Academie 
 des Beaux Arts, the successor of the mediaeval guild 
 of St. Luke. 
 
 Connected with the Church of St. Paul, which for- 
 merly belonged to the adjoining Dominican monastery, 
 is a curious exhibition, quite at variance with the pre- 
 vailing art-tendencies of Antwerp. It is a representa- 
 tion of Mount Calvary, in the form of an artificial ele- 
 vation, covered with pieces of rock and slag, and gar- 
 nished with rude statues of saints, angels, prophets, 
 and patriarchs. In a grotto below is a representation 
 of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and there is also 
 a sort of side-show, representing Purgatory. Such an 
 exhibition has a ludicrous aspect in a city filled with 
 the most beautiful and ennobling objects of art. 
 
 The Zoological Garden, near the railway station, 
 containing a fine collection of animals and a cabinet of 
 natural history, is one of the best in all Europe. 
 
 The Plantin Museum is an institution of especial 
 attractiveness to all persons interested in the typo- 
 graphic art. It was established by Christopher Plan- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 395 
 
 tin, a Frenchman, who came to Antwerp in 1550, and 
 established a bookseller's shop, a printing-office, and 
 book-bindery. He did much to advance the art of 
 printing, and the establishment was continued long after 
 his death. There are presses, types, thousands of wood- 
 cuts, books, manuscripts, paintings, engravings, and 
 even the wages'-books of compositors, pressmen, en- 
 gravers, and book-binders. The history of printing 
 during the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth cen- 
 turies is very fully illustrated in this manner. There 
 are memorandum-books containing notes of hand from 
 Rubens ; particulars of all the works for which esti- 
 mates were required, and all the payments by Philip 
 of Spain. Some idea of the extent of the collection 
 may be formed when it is known that the last descend- 
 ant of the founder has recently sold it to the city of 
 Antwerp for a sum equivalent to $240,000. 
 
 The quays and docks of Antwerp are of great extent, 
 aud the river-front is lined with shipping flying the 
 flags of all nations. It is a curious fact, that the least 
 maritime of the more important European countries 
 should possess the greatest port on the continent. 
 According to the statistics recently compiled by Colo- 
 nel Weaver, United States Consul at Antwerp, the 
 maritime movements of that port are inferior only to 
 those of London and Liverpool. Next in importance 
 
396 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 come successively Marseilles, Hamburg, Havre, Hull, 
 Amsterdam, Bremen, Southampton, Bordeaux, and 
 Glasgow. 
 
 We left Antwerp shortly before six o'clock in the 
 afternoon, after dining at the Hotel de la Paix. At that 
 hour, the religious festival which had taken possession 
 of the city for the day, had begun to manifest itself 
 at the cafes. Crowds of people surrounded the tables 
 of these establishments, and drank in with their beer 
 the inspiration of music furnished by orchestras and 
 military bands. Our course was by railway to Roosen- 
 daal, and thence down through the Zuid-Beveland of 
 Zeeland, the southernmost province of Holland, to 
 Ylissingen, where we were to take the Sheerness 
 steamer for England. The country, after leaving Ant- 
 werp, is generally low and flat, but it is highly culti- 
 vated, and presents a varied and interesting appear- 
 ance on account of an abundance of trees. There are 
 quite extensive fortifications on the Belgian border, 
 and King Leopold makes a goodly show of his sol- 
 diery. After leaving Esschen, we passed into Hol- 
 land. 
 
 At Roosendaal, where we changed cars, we submitted 
 to the mild attentions of the custom-house authorities 
 of Holland, which, however, caused little or no delay, 
 as our trunks received the cabalistic chalk-mark with- 
 
l^^ 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 397 
 
 out being opened at all. Thenceforward our route 
 was through Dutch territory, the characteristics of 
 which were soon apparent. The names of the towns 
 and the stations would alone indicate a Dutch con- 
 dition of things. Here are some of them : Wouw, 
 Bergen-op-Zoom, Woensdrecht, Krabbendijke, Bieze- 
 linge, and 'sHeer-Arendskerke. The railway, for a 
 little distance, runs down into a country that seems all 
 marsh, but soon emerges into a section covered with 
 farms. Trees line the highways, and hither and yon 
 run the little ditches which aid in reclaiming the land 
 for the farmers. In the gathering gloom of the even- 
 ing, the windmills, without wind enough to stir their 
 sails, look like a row of sleepy giants with outstretched 
 arms. Near the end of our railway journey, we pass 
 the town of Micldleburg, the birth-place of Hans and 
 Zach. Jansen, the inventors of the telescope, and the 
 capital of the province of Zeeland. Ylissingen is 
 another of those double-headed towns which are 
 called one thing by the natives, and something else by 
 the outside world. To the English, Vlissingen is 
 known as Flushing. It is strongly fortified, being at 
 the mouth of the Schelde, and has witnessed some 
 stirring scenes in times of w T ar. Admiral de 
 Ruyter, the famous naval hero of the Dutch, 
 who once took his vessels up the Thames, throw- 
 
398 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ing London into great consternation, was born here 
 in 1607. 
 
 It was nearly nine o'clock when we disembarked 
 from the cars and went on board the "Scadt-Vlissingen," 
 the largest of the steamers of this line, to find, as is 
 generally the case, that the passengers exceeded the 
 sleeping accommodations of the boat. There is not. 
 as much attention shown to the comforts of passengers 
 on European passenger boats as in America, and com- 
 fortable state-rooms are the last thing, probably, that 
 would be deemed essential. Such necessities are 
 generally modelled after the contracted spaces devoted 
 to sleeping purposes on the Atlantic steamers, with, 
 perhaps, a still greater compression of the room, and a 
 further crowding of passengers into the limited space. 
 The passage across the North Sea occupies all night, 
 and the waters are often terribly agitated, in which 
 event the journey may be made anything but pleasant, 
 as any one who has been on a crowded boat during a 
 season of sea-sickness can well understand. On this 
 particular night, however, the North Sea was on its 
 good behavior, so that naught can I say against it 
 from personal experience. 
 
 The bluffs and beaches about the mouth of the 
 Thames had an inviting look on the bright summer 
 morning we gazed upon them from the steamer's deck, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 399 
 
 and we would have gladly enjoyed a closer inspection 
 of their charms at Margate or Kamsgate, but a con- 
 tinuance of our journey to London was imperative. 
 Sheeruess, or at least that portion of it seen from the 
 Queenboro' landing, is not particularly inviting. The 
 English officers of customs caused us the least pos- 
 sible trouble, scarcely more than those at Roosendaal, 
 the night before, although Queen Victoria's representa- 
 tives are generally more particular in such matters 
 than are those of the Kinsr of the Netherlands. 
 
 The ride up to London was pleasant, as are all rail- 
 way rides in England. Charming bits of scenery 
 peep out continually with varied landscapes, luxuriant 
 fields, shaded cottages, picturesque hamlets, or popu- 
 lous towns. Chatham, Eochester, and Strood, three 
 large places which run into each other, are passed., and 
 by the time Bromley is reached, the passenger realizes 
 that he is approaching the great city of London. The 
 towers of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, soon flit 
 by the hurrying train, which continues on above some 
 of the houses on the Surrey side of the Thames. The 
 well-known landmarks of the metropolis (St. Paul's, 
 the towers of the Parliament Buildings, &c.) broaden 
 in the view, Blackfriars Bridge is crossed ; and then 
 the outer world is lost by the train plunging into a 
 great station, and onward through subterranean ways 
 
400 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 to another part of the town. Alighting at the Holborn 
 Viaduct Station, we were soon hurrying across the 
 city in cabs, through a drenching shower, to the Mid- 
 land Grand Hotel, where most of the other Tourjee 
 parties had already arrived. 
 
THBOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 401 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 THE FIRST SECTION — ITALY. 
 
 The Journey from London to the Continent, and through Belgium, 
 Germany, and Switzerland — Mont Cenis Tunnel — Milan — 
 The Cathedral — Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" — Verona 
 
 — Romeo and Juliet — The Capulet Mansion — Juliet's Tomb 
 
 — Venice — The Gondoliers — Venetian Painters — St. Mark's 
 Church — The Doge's Palace — The Bridge of Sighs — The 
 Piazza of St. Mark's — The Doves of Venice — Reception of 
 King Humbert and Queen Margherita — Carnival of Venice — 
 Florence — Its Palaces and Churches — The Baptistry — The 
 Cathedral — Sante Croce — Dante — The Medicean Chapel — 
 The Pitti Palace — The Uffizzi Gallery — The Venus de Medici 
 
 — The Group of Niobe — American Artists — The Powers 
 Family — The Protestant Cemetery. 
 
 The " Italian " section of the party, the largest of 
 the five divisions, and numbering seventy persons, 
 left London on the evening of July 15, under the 
 experienced guidance of Signor C. A. Barattoni, who 
 had accompanied the entire company from America. 
 Although only twenty-six years of age, Signor Bar- 
 attoni is a veteran traveller. He has been twice 
 around the world, and has travelled in connection 
 with " Cook's parties " one hundred and thirty thou- 
 sand miles in America, Europe, Asia, and Africa. 
 He is an Italian, born in Rome ; but his experience 
 
402 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 as a~ traveller has made him a cosmopolite. His cor- 
 rect business habits, his care for the wants of all, and 
 his courtly and gentlemanly bearing early placed him 
 high in the esteem of the members of the party who 
 thus found themselves under his charge ; and these 
 qualities, united to his experience and good judgment, 
 contributed largely to the enjoyment of the subsequent 
 journey over the continent. 
 
 Leaving London by rail for Harwich, the party 
 there took a steamer across the North Sea for Ant- 
 werp, arriving in the latter city the succeeding fore- 
 noon. The Cathedral, with its paintings, and the 
 other sights of Antwerp, were visited, and the travel- 
 lers then proceeded to Brussels, where they were 
 quartered at the Hotel de la Poste. The succeeding 
 clay was busily employed in inspecting the various 
 objects of interest in that city, many of the party 
 adding to this pleasant task an excursion to the battle- 
 field of Waterloo. From Brussels, the journey was 
 continued by rail through Liege, Yerviers, and Aix 
 la Chapelle to Cologne. The day chosen for this 
 journey chanced to be exceedingly warm. At Col- 
 ogne, the Cathedral and the curious Church of St. 
 Ursula were, of course, visited. 
 
 Next came the magnificent boat-journey up the 
 Ehine, an entire day being devoted to this glorious 
 experience. Arriving at Biebrich in the evening, the 
 party took carriages for Wiesbaden, stopping at tho 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 403 
 
 Hotel du Rhin. Frankfort and Heidelberg were the 
 next places visited, the travellers tarrying over a 
 Sabbath at the Hotel de l'Europe in the latter city. 
 From Heidelberg, the railway journey was resumed, 
 through Darmstadt to Baden-Baden, where a very 
 pleasant sojourn was made. 
 
 The succeeding stage of the journey was a little 
 more extended, the Falls of the Rhine at Neuhausen, 
 near Schaffhausen, being the next halting-point. 
 Here began the delightful tour through Switzerland, 
 to which the beautiful falls, and the grand outlook 
 upon the distant hills, form a fitting introduction. 
 The party proceeded from this point to Zurich and 
 Lucerne. The sojourn in the latter city enabled the 
 visitors to inspect the various objects of interest in 
 and about the place, and also to listen to a concert on 
 the famous organ in the Cathedral. A visit was 
 made to the summit of the Rlgi ; but, unfortunately 
 for the excursionists, clouds covered the mountain- 
 top, and no view of the other Alpine heights was had ; 
 the novelty of being carried up into the clouds by the 
 iron horse, and the beauty of the scenery bordering 
 upon the lovely lake of the Four Cantons, which could 
 be scanned during the steamer trip to Vitznau, afford- 
 ing the only compensation for the trouble thus taken. 
 Crossing the lake to Alpnach, the party proceeded, in 
 carriages, over the Brunig Pass to Brienz, and from 
 the latter point a steamer was taken across the lake 
 
404 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 to the Falls of the Giessbach. After witnessing the 
 spectacle of the illumination of the waters, and pass- 
 ing the night at the fine hotel in front of the falls, 
 the travellers proceeded to Interlaken, where a Sab- 
 bath was passed. Signor Barattoni obligingly gave 
 his companions an extra day at this most beautiful 
 of all Swiss summer resorts, and, in addition to enjoy- 
 ing the glorious outlook upon the majestic Jungfrau, 
 such members of the party as desired to do so, made 
 the delightful excursion to Lauterbrunnen and Grindel- 
 w r ald. The "Third Swiss" section, Mr. Bruce's, was 
 met at Interlaken, and a pleasant reunion was held at 
 the Hotel Victoria. 
 
 Resuming the journey, Signor Barattoni conducted 
 his joyous band of travellers to Berne, where, at the 
 Hotel Bellevue, the " Fourth Swiss " section, headed 
 by Dr. Tourjee, was met. The two divisions made 
 up a party of over one hundred Americans, and 
 together they attended a special organ concert at the 
 Cathedral, provided by Dr. Tourjee's liberality. 
 Fribourg was the next halting-place, and here another 
 organ concert was listened to. Lausanne and Geneva 
 were the next objective points, and in this stage of 
 the tour an excursion was made upon Lake Leman to 
 the famed Castle of Chillon. The interesting city of* 
 Geneva received a due share of attention, and from 
 this point, the party made a divergence from the route 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 405 
 
 taken by the other divisions, going into Italy by the 
 way of the Mont Cenis Tunnel. 
 
 The succeeding account of the journey of the "Italian" 
 section is more in detail, inasmuch as the route was 
 traversed by none of the other divisions. 
 
 The seventy members of the Tourjee party who 
 enrolled their names in Division No. 1, or the Italian 
 section, deem themselves the fortunate tourists of the 
 great excursion. Not that the route over which they 
 travelled, in common with the other four divisions, was 
 not full of interest to every intelligent sight-seer, em- 
 bracing Scotland, England, Belgium, Germany, the 
 Rhine, Switzerland and the Alps, Paris and the Exposi- 
 tion, — but to have our trip shorn of a view of the gor- 
 geous Cathedral of Milan, that flower-garden in marble ; 
 Venice, with its palaces, prisons, and churches, its 
 winding canals through which the dark and dreamy 
 gondolas float to the music of the gondoliers ; Flor- 
 ence, with its wealth of art and beauty, its galleries 
 lined with treasures of mediaeval artists and relics of 
 antiquity ; and Rome, that mighty capital of the earth, 
 which so long ruled the world with its armies, its litera- 
 ture, and its laws, sitting in splendid ruins upon her 
 sevenhills, "the Niobe of nations," and yet seeming more 
 grand than the most gorgeous city of modern days ; 
 the Bay of Naples ; Pompeii, the marble city that for 
 eighteen centuries slept beneath the ashes of a vol- 
 cano ; and the throbbing of the fiery heart of Vesu- 
 
406 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 vius, as painted on the midnight sky; — to have 
 these pictures taken from memory's gallery, would 
 be to deprive our tour of its sunniest experiences and 
 its most hallowed recollections. 
 
 We had made one pass of the Alps ; we had 
 ascended the Rhigi ; and now, in going to Italy, we 
 were to make their passage through that mighty 
 groove, the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The poet has said 
 truly, — 
 
 "Mountains interposed make enemies of nations." 
 
 In various parts of the world we find that moun- 
 tain-chains stand as barriers between different nations, 
 and in many instances the boundaries thus formed 
 by nature have remained unchanged for hundreds of 
 years. 
 
 On the map of Europe the most prominent moun- 
 tain-chain is that of the Alps, and it has stood as a 
 separating line between nations for a long time. It is 
 true that occasionally wars have been carried beyond 
 these mountain-chains, but for practical purposes the 
 Alps have been for centuries the separating line 
 between France and Austria on the north, and 
 Italy on the south. Hannibal crossed the Alps 
 with an army two centuries before the birth of our 
 Saviour. The Mont Cenis Pass was crossed by sev- 
 eral armies from the twelfth to the seventeenth cen- 
 tury. It was little more than a mule-path till 1803, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 407 
 
 when Chevalier Fabroni, .under the orders of Napo- 
 leon, began the construction of a carriage-road, which 
 was completed in 1810, at a cost of seven million five 
 hundred thousand francs. More recently, in 1868, a 
 railway was completed over this pass, but the ascent 
 is laborious and tedious, so that rapid communication 
 was impossible. It remained for the science of the 
 present day to overcome the obstacles which the 
 mountains interposed, not by cutting away the Alps, 
 but by piercing a passage through' them. More than 
 twenty years ago the attention of the French and 
 Italian governments was called to the necessity of a 
 tunnel through the Alps, by which France and Italy 
 should be connected. The Mont Cenis is the largest 
 tunnel in the world, extending from Fourneaux on the 
 French side, to Bardouneche' on the Italian — a little 
 short of eight miles. When it was begun, in 1857, 
 with the ordinary system of hand-drills, it was found 
 that it would take thirty or forty years to complete 
 the work. A necessity arose for penetrating the rock 
 much faster than by the ordinary means, and there 
 was also a necessity for supplying the workmen with 
 fresh air. These necessities led to Sommelier's in- 
 vention of drills worked by compressed air, and of 
 the machinery for compressing the air. The tunnel is 
 about twenty-five feet wide and the same in height; 
 broad enough for two double lines of rails. Its cost 
 was fifteen millions of dollars. 
 
408 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 The St. Gothard Tunnel, which is to connect Switz- 
 erland and Italy, will be over nine miles long ; two 
 miles longer than Mont Cenis, or nearly twice as 
 long as the great American bore, — the Hoosac 
 Tunnel. . 
 
 After a brief stay at Turin (of which more here- 
 after), we sped on to Milan, whose great Cathedral is 
 one of the wonders and glories of Italy. One thing is 
 most noticeable in Italy, and that is the unlikeness of 
 every town to every other. Milan is as utterly unlike 
 Florence or Venice, as both of these are unlike Rome. 
 It is a clean, new-looking city, extremely well-kept. 
 It is full of life ; it has a population of over two hun- 
 dred thousand inhabitants, and is one of the wealthiest 
 manufacturing cities in Italy, silk-making being its 
 principal industry. 
 
 At seven o'clock, when dinner is over, every one 
 turns into the street. You can hardly hire an open 
 carriage unless you make an instantaneous rush for it, 
 for every one is driving. You see sumptuous equi- 
 pages without ^number, with men in gorgeous liveries ; 
 also you see no end of the little hackney open phaetons 
 which you can hire so cheaply. The principal streets 
 s*eem all alive with people. In front of the cafes the 
 sidewalks are crowded with tables, at which the Milan- 
 ese are sipping ices and drinking their after-dinner 
 coffee. From time to time one carriage after another 
 draws up before these cafes, and the occupants are 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 409 
 
 served with cakes and ices, which they eat without dis- 
 mounting, and go on again. An ingenious American 
 writer suggested, a year or two ago, the manufacture 
 of an artificial climate for invalids, which would do 
 away with the necessity of their flying southward from 
 the inhospitality of our northern winters. One of his 
 plans was to have miles of glass-covered walk, through 
 whose crystal roofs light and air could penetrate, but 
 which could be a complete shelter from wind and rain. 
 This part of the ingenious gentleman's plan has been 
 carried out in Milan. In the centre of the city is the 
 Arcade Victor Emmanuel, the most magnificent affair of 
 the kind in Europe. These arcades are roofed with 
 glass. You can walk there comfortably for hours, 
 wiiile the wind blows and the rain pours outside, 
 amused by as fine shops as there are in the world. 
 Seen at evening, with all its shops brilliantly lighted, 
 with its crowds of gay, chattering promenaders, and 
 other crowds within and without the cafes, where 
 orchestral music is served with the beer and wine, it 
 presents a picture of rare animation and interest. The 
 length of the Arcade is nine hundred and sixty feet ; 
 breadth, forty-eight feet; height, ninety-four feet. 
 The form is that of a Latin cross, with an octagon in 
 the centre, over which rises a cupola one hundred and 
 eighty feet in height, and it is lighted in the evening 
 by two thousand gas-jets. The decorations of the 
 octagon are well executed, and bear testimony to the 
 
410 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 good taste of the Milanese. It is adorned with twenty- 
 four statues of celebrated Italians. 
 
 Near the Arcade, in the Piazza della Scala, is a 
 statue of Leonardo cla Vinci, whose great fresco of 
 " The Last Supper," now almost obliterated, is the 
 principal art attraction of Milan, and continues to 
 attract copyists from all the world. It has been 
 touched and retouched until its former beauty is gone, 
 and yet, as the original of the multitude of copies and 
 imitations, it is an object of great and thrilling interest. 
 The other objects of interest in Milan are the statue of 
 Cavour ; the Church of St. Ambrose, erected in the 
 twelfth century, the picture gallery in connection with 
 the Library of the Academy in the Brera, containing 
 works of several masters ; the Theatre della Scala, the 
 largest in Europe ; the Amphitheatre, or Arena, with 
 seating capacity for thirty thousand persons ; and the 
 Arch of Peace, erected by the first Napoleon. This is 
 a triumphal arch in the Eoman style, begun in 1804, 
 by Napoleon, as a termination of the Simplon route, 
 and completed by the Emperor Francis in 1830. The 
 inscriptions in honor of the Emperor Francis have 
 been replaced by others commemorating the emancipa- 
 tion of Italy in 1859. The lofty gateway, with three 
 passages, erected entirely of white marble by Cagnola, 
 is adorned with numerous reliefs and statues. 
 
 We have scarcely mentioned the Cathedral, but it is 
 the first thing and the last which you go to see at 
 
THE CATHEDRAL AT MILAN. 
 
. THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 411 
 
 Milan. We spent a Sabbath here, and viewed with 
 deepest interest the pageant of worship as seen in 
 priest and people and song and service of this grand 
 temple. We watched the vast tide of worshippers 
 as they surged into the Cathedral, some at the confes- 
 sional, some bowing, kneeling, and crossing themselves 
 to pictures and statues of the Virgin and saints, others 
 mingling in the grand throng of reverent souls. One 
 cannot but pity these misled and benighted souls, who 
 are so sincere and reverent, whose religion is a thing 
 for times and places, and has so -little to do with their 
 e very-day life. Far be it from any one to scoff at 
 these forms of devotion, but rather respect a feeling, 
 superstitious though it be, which has but one spark of 
 the element of real sincerity and true religion. 
 
 The exterior view of this so-called "eighth wonder 
 of the world " was a slight disappointment. The 
 facade, especially, is lacking in the height and impres- 
 sive grandeur of those at Cologne, Strasbourg and 
 4)ther places. And yet it fills you with wonder as you 
 gaze upon its couutless pinnacles, turrets, and statues ; 
 and the more you examine it, the more your wonder 
 grows. Where were found the patient hands to exe- 
 cute all this marvellous carving? the believing souls to 
 give of their substance the means for a work so costly ? 
 We were not so fascinated b}^ it as by dreamy, pictur- 
 esque, solemn old St. Mark's at Venice, or the beauti- 
 ful II Duomo of Florence ; but this Milan Cathedral is 
 
412 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 far more ornate than either. It is a million-leaved rose 
 of architecture. It is a mixture of the Gothic and 
 Romanesque styles ; the body of the structure is 
 entirely covered with statues and richly-wrought 
 sculpture, with needle-like spires of white marble 
 rising up from every corner. But of the exquisite, 
 airy look of the whole mass, although so solid and 
 vast, it is impossible to convey an idea. It appears 
 like some mighty fabric of frost-work painted by the 
 cold in arctic winters. There is a unity of beauty 
 about the whole which* the eye takes in with a feeling 
 of perfect and satisfied delight. 
 
 The interior is rich, grand, and harmonious beyond 
 expectation ; but it is not till you have mounted its 
 roof, and roamed through its forest of dazzling white 
 turrets and statues, that you get anything like a cor- 
 rect idea of this miracle in marble. 
 
 From the tower, three hundred and sixty feet above 
 the pavement, the eye takes in a picture of wonderful 
 extent and beauty. 
 
 The exterior of this Cathedral is decorated by one 
 hundred and six Gothic turrets and four thousand five 
 hundred marble statues ; and the whole structure, 
 with labor very cheap for most of the time since its 
 commencement, in 1386, cost 550,000,000 francs, or 
 more than $100,000,000. 
 
 We found King Humbert and Queen Margherita at 
 Milan, and the city gayly decorated in their honor, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 413 
 
 with the national colors. The new king and queen 
 are very popular, especially Margherita, who is young, 
 and exceedingly beautiful in personal attractions. 
 Their portraits adorn all the shop windows. The 
 king looks brave and stern, and yet we fear he cannot 
 do so much for Italy as did his father, the late King 
 Victor Emmanuel. The royal party came before us on 
 our way to Milan, but we preceded them on our ride 
 to Venice ; in fact, we acted, alternately, as escort for 
 each other for a long distance on our Italian journey. 
 The square, on which fronts the Cathedral and the 
 Royal Palace, was brilliantly illuminated in the even- 
 ing; the gas-jets blazing in semi- circular bands over 
 each door, on the three sides of the grand square, 
 together with a crown on the summit of a lofty staff, 
 with monograms of the king and queen blazing below, 
 lighted up the square with the full splendor of clay. 
 While on -.our way to the station we were greatly 
 amused by the way the Milanese sprinkle their streets. 
 A large sprinkler is mounted on wheels, from the 
 lower part of which depends a dangling hose, six or 
 eight feet long. A man follows behind, with a strap 
 attached to the end of the hose, which he frantically 
 shakes about from right to left, scattering the water in 
 all directions, and- looking very much as if he were 
 shaking an elephant's tail. 
 
 From Milan to Verona is only the journey of a few 
 hours ; but we could not pass this old town, where 
 
414 A SUMMEJJ JAUNT 
 
 Romeo and Juliet lived, loved, and suffered. It is a 
 beautiful old town, and is celebrated not only for its 
 connection with the sweetest and most romantic of 
 tragedies, but for its wonderful fortifications, which, 
 we were told, are the strongest in Italy, if not in 
 Europe. We took the regular sight-seeing round, 
 visiting the churches (in the Cathedral is an 
 "Assumption of the Virgin," by Titian), the Tombs, 
 and the Amphitheatre. The latter is like the 
 Roman Colosseum on a smaller scale. This am- 
 phitheatre made, us realize more than ever how 
 grand and how immense was the other in its day. It 
 was not so picturesque as the glorious old ruins at 
 Rome, but much more complete ; indeed, it is in a 
 very good state of preservation. It was built by 
 Diocletian, in the third century, and is capable of 
 seating thirty thousand persons. 
 
 Verona has gone to seed, and is now a dull town, 
 compared to what it was when the "Two Gentlemen" 
 were playing their pranks in its streets, or when the 
 Montagues and the Capulets were carrying on that 
 family quarrel which resulted so tragically for some 
 of the young people. The reader must look else- 
 where for a history of this ancient town, but as for 
 its poetry, William Shakespeare is cordially recom- 
 mended as a reliable person, whose word may be 
 depended upon. The town is situated on a broad 
 rolling plain, within sight of the Alps. The rapid 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 415 
 
 Adtee Eiver flows through it in the form of a blunted 
 "V," and is crossed by half a dozen bridges, more or 
 less. About the whole town there is a flavor of mild 
 decay. 
 
 Nearly all the houses have the appearance of having 
 been built three or four hundred years ago, as they 
 were. The churches, which are numerous and hand- 
 some, were built from the twelfth to the fifteenth 
 century. One of the squares is adorned by a statue 
 of Dante, who found an asylum here when driven 
 from Florence. Near by, in the yard of a small 
 church, are the tombs of the Scaligers, costly Gothic 
 monuments of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, 
 which still excite the wonder 'and admiration of the 
 age. The Scaligers were a noble family, who had 
 things pretty much their own way in Verona for two 
 centuries. In the street Saint Sebastiano we saw the 
 Capulet mansion, Juliet's home, which is now turned 
 into an inn. 
 
 In the court, and on the_ street, there are several 
 balconies suitable for a moonlight dialogue of the 
 most impassioned character. 
 
 It was but a slight effort of the imagination to see 
 Juliet looking into the garden, with its roses less 
 bright and sweet than her lips, and to see the gallant 
 Romeo standing beneath, lifting his handsome south- 
 ern face into the moonlight, towards her who was his 
 sun, and eclipsed the moon. 
 
416 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Here you may also see Juliet's tomb ; but you have 
 a strong suspicion that it is only such for the purpose 
 of getting a trifle of your money. There is an air of 
 doubt about all the relics of Juliet at Verona. 
 
 We were conducted, in the burning sun, through 
 street after street, till we came to the deserted mon- 
 astery, and wandered through its blossoming garden, 
 to the tomb where they say she was buried. The 
 stone sarcophagus in which they tell us her fair 
 body used to lie was certainly empty, save for the 
 wreaths and bunches of flowers affectionate pilgrims 
 had laid in it. I should have liked to think that the 
 fair flower of Verona had slept there once ; but the 
 guide-book casts a doubt on the matter, and since 
 guide-books are given to affirmation, and believe all 
 they possibly can, we too have to confess our doubts. 
 If Juliet were not buried there, however, she ought to 
 have been, for it was a lovely spot; and, at any rate, 
 here in Verona she once lived, with her beautiful dark 
 eyes, and her warm, bright lips, and the glory of her 
 abundant hair ; and somewhere in this old town she 
 has turned to dust, from which, no doubt, flowers are 
 springing as fresh as those she used to wear on her 
 bosom. 
 
 Mark Twain said he could n't weep at Juliet's tomb, 
 because he was n't near enough of kin. We always 
 thought Mark a bad fellow, but we never supected he 
 was a heathen ; yes, worse than that, even destitute 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 417 
 
 of all humanity, for did not a heathen writer say, two 
 thousand years ago : "Homo sum; liumani nihil a me 
 alienum puto ." Mark ought to blush when he thinks 
 of that. 
 
 " There is a glorious City in the Sea. 
 The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, 
 Ebbing and flowing ; and the salt sea-weed 
 Clings to the marble of her palaces." 
 
 The ride from Verona to Venice, of about three 
 hours, was a charming one. On our left the Alps 
 towered grandly against the blue sky, the foot-hills 
 crowned by castles and churches and fortified towns 
 of mediaeval appearance ; on our right, the broad 
 plain, like a cultivated garden. We passed through 
 Vicenza and Padua, whose grim walls and dingy 
 towers speak of the days of Rome's greatness and her 
 decay. Toward sunset a golden cloud appeared far 
 ahead and to our right. It stood over the Adriatic, 
 and seemed to beckon us towards Venice, which soon 
 rose above the gilded waters, dotted with gondolas 
 and barges and picturesque, yellow-sailed h'shing- 
 boats. It was the realization of a life-longing, and, 
 when we stepped into a gondola to float down the 
 Grand Caiml to the palace which had become our 
 hotel, we could not have felt better if we had all been 
 doges, and Venice were still queen of the sea. 
 
 And what shall we say of Venice, — this curious, 
 novel, and fascinating place ; the best described, and 
 
418 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 still the least known of the cities of Europe ? Unique 
 in her history, as well as in her situation ; set aside, as 
 it were, on her piles, while barbarians overran the 
 rest of the Roman Empire, Venice preserved through 
 the Dark Ages some of the strongest and most charm- 
 ing characteristics of pagan civilization ; and when 
 light began to break through the darkness, there was 
 still, in her new birth, many gleams of the old pagan 
 spirit. The history of the rise of Venice to the 
 commercial supremacy of the world ; her prowess, 
 her wealth, her luxury ; what other history is so 
 poetical ? No wonder that art took root in such a soil 
 and made the Venetian school of painters one of the 
 most celebrated. The decline of Venice was as natu- 
 ral as her rise. The world outgrew the methods by 
 which she governed ; and corruption prepared her for 
 her fall. But in her decline, even in her moral decay, 
 she was still bright, sparkling, and beautiful ; and she 
 exists to-day as the gem among cities, the charming 
 resort above all others for those who would seek the 
 new, or would forget the old. 
 
 We had no sooner been landed, after our gondolier 
 race, at the Grand Hotel Victoria, and been refreshed 
 by Venetian viands, than our conductor 'treated us 
 to a first-class surprise in the shape of a concert by 
 the gondoliers. They came into the court of the 
 hotel, and for an hour the air trembled alternately 
 with the sweet strains and harmonies of the singers and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 419 
 
 the applause of the listeners. These same gondoliers 
 were to be our companions on the morrow through 
 the canals and over the lagoons of the city, and the 
 melodious songs they had given us haunted our dreams 
 through all the hours of that sweet summer night. It 
 is sad to record that these singers do not make music 
 for the love of art, or to win the smiles of the fair, but 
 for the vulgar purpose of gain. "Modern degeneracy" 
 has overtaken the Italian singer. However, come to 
 think of it, they clo not very much differ from other 
 singers in that regard. Some of the gondoliers 
 know by heart long passages from Ariosto and Tasso, 
 and often chant them with peculiar melody. But this 
 talent seems at present on the decline. Of course, in 
 the doing of Venice, a gondola-sail by moonlight is 
 the proper thing, and to be omitted would be an end- 
 less regret. No sooner had the last echoes of the 
 gondoliers died away, than a goodly number of the 
 party chartered their gondolas and embarked on the 
 green waters, now bright and silvery with the beams 
 of the full-orbed moon. That first night in Venice 
 was too full of poetry, romance, and song. We 
 could not sleep. Though no horse is ever seen, or 
 rumble of carriage heard in the streets, yet the nights 
 are vocal with the dialogues, songs, and shouts of the 
 gondoliers ; and it was not till the small hours of 
 the morning, after the shouts and songs had died 
 away, that sleep came to our eyes. 
 
4-20 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Don't think you can never walk in Venice. The 
 city is permeated by streets like any other city, only 
 they are very narrow, and only serve for pedestrians. 
 
 There are no horses or hand-carts. All transporta- 
 tion of people or merchandise is by the canals. One 
 can walk all over Venice in the streets, which vary 
 from four to twelve feet wide, but the ways are 
 crooked and blind, and for any distance the gondola is 
 the ordinary means of conveyance. Almost every 
 house in the city fronts on a canal, and also on one of 
 these narrow ways. Here and there, on a ramble, one 
 comes upon an open space of five to ten thousand 
 square feet, generally in front of a church, and called 
 by its name. Venice is a city of enchantment, and its 
 spell was upon us from the moment we left the railway- 
 station and stepped into a gondola. There is only one 
 Venice in all the world. Think of a great, populous 
 city, where the rumble of wheels is never heard, and 
 not a single horse within its limits. Your sole car- 
 riage is a gondola, and these are all painted black. 
 This is in accordance with a law passed by the Vene- 
 tian Republic, when, long ago, the rich merchant- 
 princes of Venice were beginning to adorn their gon- 
 dolas with such lavish license of luxury as offended 
 the republican simplicity of their rulers. Since that 
 time, only black gondolas are to be seen, but some of 
 these are very luxurious. They are long and slender, 
 with high, steel beaks, and many of them are exqui- 
 
TIIltOUGH THE OLD WOKLD. 421 
 
 sitely carved. In the centre is a little covered house, 
 of one tiny room, with glass windows and door, cush- 
 ioned inside, often most luxuriously. It is something 
 like a carriage-top set upon a boat. 
 
 These black gondolas are the boats of romance and 
 mystery. You think they ought to convey no freight 
 but dark-eyed Venetian girls, or stately cavaliers, on 
 their way to some deed of daring valor. It impresses 
 you curiously to see them loaded with potatoes and 
 cauliflowers. But your butcher employs a gondola, 
 and your baker takes one to carry round his hot 
 loaves. You go to the post-office for your letters by 
 water, and you go to church in the same manner. 
 
 The gondoliers are not the captivating, brigand- 
 looking fellows you see in pictures. Those who are in 
 the service of the rich wear elegant boating-costumes ; 
 those of the large hotels, too, wear handsome sailor- 
 suits of blue and white. But the ordinary gondolier, 
 who hangs about the quays, is a shabby-looking fel- 
 low. 
 
 In no place have we ever seen such captivating 
 variety of color as. in Venice. The waves that lap your 
 black gondola are green, except when the sunset crim- 
 sons or the moonlight silvers them. 
 
 Some of the houses are white, with the pure white- 
 ness of unstained marble ; some vivid yellow, and 
 some pink ; and some which were white once have 
 turned absolutely black with time and tide, — grand 
 
422 A SUMMER -JAUNT 
 
 old palaces these last, dreaming there, above the waters 
 at their base, of a past which all the arts have com- 
 bined to make immortal. Browning spoke of Venice 
 as a city — 
 
 " Where the sea the street is " ; 
 
 and it is the best description we know. Imagine, in- 
 stead of Washington Street, or Tremont, or Broadway, 
 or Fifth Avenue, a deep canal. Imagine houses, in front 
 of which is not even a sidewalk, but to the doorsteps 
 of which you step from your gondola, the first floors 
 being often too damp for occupancy. 
 
 Venice is the place of all the world for the boys who 
 are fond of piscatory pleasure. Here they can fish by 
 day or by night, without the trouble of leaving their 
 home. They can throw open the door, or raise the 
 window, sit in their easy-chair, run out their rod and 
 line, and pull in the finny tribe at leisure. It was a 
 novel scene as we watched the Spanish Minister's 
 boys, across the canal from our hotel (over which we 
 could almost reach to shake hands), engaged in this 
 sport, as if fishing from a boat. 
 
 The Grand Canal is the Broadway of Venice. It 
 extends through the city in the form of an inverted S, 
 and is about two miles in length. On it rise the hand- 
 some buildings which were the homes and palaces of 
 the wealthy in the flourishing days of the Republic. 
 The architecture is peculiar, highly ornate ; Byzantine 
 in its origin, but forming a school of its own. The 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 423 
 
 buildings rise directly from the water, or have a nar- 
 row footway in front of them. The Grand Canal varies 
 from one hundred to two hundred feet in width. 
 
 The Eialto crosses it about midway, and this was 
 the centre of the city's commercial life, as the Piazza 
 of St. Mark was of its political life. If you look 
 for Shylock's face on the Rialto to-day, you will find 
 him selling second-hand clothing, or frantically shout- 
 ing over a small stock of vegetables. Antonio and 
 Bassanio, and their friends, that courtly throng, where 
 are they now? You may find Jessica; but Portia 
 takes her degrees at Wellesley College this year. 
 The Bialto, where great merchants met and talked of 
 their argosies on many seas, is given up to petty traffic, 
 and at one end of it slip-shod women sell lunches 
 of smoking boiled turnip. The bridge rises sharply 
 from the shores, and crosses the canal with a massive 
 arch. Its sides are covered with small shops. 
 
 A chapter on art in Venice would include the palaces 
 and churches, the walls of which are covered by the 
 works of this wonderful Venetian school, of which 
 Paul "Veronese, and Titian, and Tintoretto formed the 
 first rank. 
 
 All these masters except Tintoretto can be studied 
 in other European cities ; their works are well scat- 
 tered through the galleries ; but Tintoretto can only 
 be seen here. The amount of his work is prodigious. 
 He covered whole walls of churches and halls. In 
 
424 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the Doge's Palace is a picture of his, eighty-eight 
 feet long, by thirty-eight feet broad, — the largest 
 canvas in the world. There are some eleven hundred 
 figures in the painting ; it is a representation of Para- 
 dise, and in completing the picture the artist con- 
 sumed seven years of his precious time. His "Miracle 
 of St. Mark" is one of the finest pictures we have 
 ever seen. Titian's " Assumption," and the " Madonna," 
 by Bellini, Titian's master, are pictures one lingers 
 over lovingly and parts from sadly. But with- 
 out going into details, let us enjoy this school as a 
 whole. For warm, brilliant coloring, the power of 
 using lights and shades, of expressing action, or por- 
 traying the beauty of flesh, and the abundance of life, 
 we have seen nothing like the works of these Venetian 
 masters. We visit church after church to see fine 
 pictures by Titian, Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, the 
 Palmas, the Billinis, and a dozen others, until their 
 glowing richness of color enters into our very souls, 
 and we wonder again whence came this wonderful 
 development of art, and why it passed away like the 
 colors of a sunrise. 
 
 There are about ninety churches in Venice, many of 
 them strikingly beautiful, enriched by sculpture and 
 painting ; in fact, nearly every church is a superb art- 
 gallery. In the Church of Santa Maria dei Frari, 
 Titian and Canova are buried, and magnificent monu- 
 ments are erected to their memory. Titian lived to 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 425 
 
 the age of ninety-nine, and was then carried off by 
 plague. He was the pride and glory of the Venetians, 
 and in the midst of that reign of terror, when the 
 other victims of the plague were hurried to their 
 nameless graves like dogs, they stopped to give their 
 great painter a funeral. 
 
 We visit again and again old St. Mark's Church, 
 the most poetic of all churches, and the one dearest 
 to poets and painters. It is a thousand years old, and 
 herein repose the bones of St. Mark, brought from 
 Alexandria in 828. The architecture of this cathedral 
 is, in a great measure, Byzantine. It is celebrated 
 for its historic associations, and the choiceness and 
 profusion of its Oriental marble works, as well as for 
 its carvings, paintings, and bronzes, and its mosaics of 
 the tenth, and seven succeeding centuries, covering 
 more than forty thousand square feet, almost an acre. 
 There are more than five hundred columns inside and 
 outside the church, many of them of the most costly 
 description. The interior of this celebrated edifice 
 disappointed at first sight, like most really great 
 things. It looks dark* and clingy. There is a half- 
 pagan air about it. It is not imposing like the great 
 'Gothic cathedrals at Milan and Cologne. There is 
 something fantastic in the abundant decoration. But 
 it grows upon one at each successive visit, and the 
 impression it leaves is permanent and abiding. The 
 fagade is adorned with some very fine mosaics, and 
 
426 - A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 with statues and statuettes, carvings, and bas-reliefs, 
 all very much admired. The winged lion of St. Mark 
 is to be seen here, with paw upon a book, wide open, 
 with this inscription in golden letters, "Pax tibi Marce 
 Evangelista meus." Beside it are the four bronze 
 horses, made famous by their varied travels and his- 
 tory. They once belonged to the Arch of Nero at 
 Rome. They were transported to Byzantium by Co.n- 
 stantine, and taken from the Hippodrome at Constan- 
 tinople by the Venetians when they conquered that 
 city. Once on a time, the great Napoleon stole them, 
 and carried them off to Paris, along with the lion. But 
 after his fall, they were brought back to Venice in 
 season to be apostrophized by Lord Byron : — 
 
 " The spouseless Adriatic mourns her lord ; 
 And annual marriage now no more renewed, 
 The Bucentaur lies rotting unrestored, 
 Neglected garment of her widowhood ! 
 St. Mark yet sees his lion where he stood, 
 Stand, but in mockery of his withered power, 
 Over the proud place where an Emperor sued, 
 And monarchs gazed and envied in the hour 
 When Venice was a queen with an unequalled dower. 
 
 Before St. Mark still glow his steeds of brass, 
 Their gilded collars glittering in the sun ; 
 Are they not bridled ? Venice, lost and won, 
 Her thirteen hundred years of freedom done." 
 
 From the Dole's Palace we crossed the "Bridge of 
 Sighs" into the dungeon, wdiere none entered and 
 hoped to see the sun again, and where many an inno- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 427 
 
 cent man went to torture and death. This is a cel- 
 ebrated bridge, made doubly so by the lines of Byron : 
 
 " I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, 
 A palace and a prison on each hand." 
 
 In the old days the Patricians alone governed 
 Venice — the common people had no voice in the gov- 
 ernment. There were fifteen hundred Patricians ; 
 from these three hundred Senators were chosen ; from 
 the Senators a Doge and a Council of Ten were 
 selected, and by secret ballot The Ten chose from their 
 own number a Council of Three. All these were 
 government spies. No man knew who the Council of 
 Three were ; not even the Senate or the Doge. They 
 sat upon all political offences ; and from their decision 
 there was no appeal. The doomed man was marched 
 over the Bridge of Sighs into the dungeon, to torture 
 and lingering misery, or to sudden and mysterious 
 death. 
 
 The great Piazza of St. Mark is the gem of Venice. 
 It is the heart of the city, and the centre of all its 
 gayety and brightness, — an open space, some six hun- 
 dred feet long and two hundred Wide, on three sides of 
 which rise imposing buildings, forming apparently one 
 marble palace, representing the architecture of the 
 fourteenth, sixteenth, and eighteenth centuries. 
 
 The fourth side is filled with the peculiar facade of 
 the Church of St. Mark, bulbous with domes and rich 
 with the colors of marbles and mosaics. A smaller 
 
428 A SUMMEK JAUNT 
 
 piazza extends from one end of the larger to the quay 
 on the lagoon. Near the water stand the two famous 
 columns, brought to Venice in 1120, from the islands 
 of the Greek Archipelago. One is surmounted by the 
 Winged Lion, a work of the fifteenth century ; the 
 other by a statue of St. Theodore, Patron to the 
 Republic, previous to the year 828. 
 
 Here the band phiys for half the summer nights, and 
 hundreds of gondolas are drawn up near at hand, that 
 their occupants may listen to the music. There are 
 arcades under the three palace-fronts of the piazza, 
 and these are filled with brilliant shops, devoted to 
 jewelry, photographs, mosaics, and all maimer of 
 antiquities, and the daintiest little cafes, fitted up like 
 drawing-rooms. In front of them are scores of tables 
 where the young folks are chatting and sipping their 
 ices. In the evening the square is brilliantly lighted 
 and filled by a gay throng of idlers, singing, chatting, 
 and promenading to and fro, looking into the seductive 
 show-windows, or smoking, and drinking their beer 
 and coffee in the cafes. Here is the high Campanile, or 
 bell-tower, from the top of which you have a view of 
 the near city and the fiir-off Adriatic such as the world 
 can hardly match for beauty. Here congregate, not 
 alone the people, but the doves, the beautiful doves of 
 Venice, which the Republic held in such honor that she 
 decreed they should be fed forever, at two o'clock each 
 day, at the expense of the city. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 429 
 
 All Venice is out of doors as soon as the sun is set. 
 You can fancy how like fairy-land it is — the music 
 playing ; the graceful gondolas rocking on the water ; 
 the myriads of gas-lights illuminating the piazza ; neat- 
 handed servants bringing you tempting squares of 
 colored ices ; cheerful salutations from gondola to gon- 
 dola; and, round all, the mirth and music, the soft 
 mystery of the summer night, with its air of balm, and 
 the calm, far-off splendor of its shining stars. 
 
 Our hotel was built for a palace. Most of the hotels 
 of Venice are of a similar origin, and many business 
 houses. Some fifty palaces are pointed out to us as 
 we glide through the Grand Canal, including one where 
 Byron lived ; also the home of Petrarch, Desdemona, 
 Shy lock, and Lucretia Borgia. And as if the world of 
 interior walls were not a -suSsteit+fi- field for painting 
 and fresco, many facades of the palaces blush with the 
 glowing colors of these lavish Venetian painters. Our 
 guide shows us where was started the Bank of Venice, 
 the first bank in the world ; and a building wherein 
 was printed the first newspaper. 
 
 Venice is not all bright with beautiful pictures — it 
 has its dark districts, its abodes of squalor and poverty. 
 We turn into a narrow canal and pass through crowded 
 districts, where ragged men, women and children har- 
 monize with the dingy and crumbling buildings. We 
 stop to look into a church, and officious loungers offer 
 their services to hold the gondola, to assist in alight- 
 
430 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ing, and help up the steps. They then run to raise the 
 sacristan, and hold out their dirty caps for payment. 
 
 Five centissimi (about one cent) wins their "grazie." 
 Wherever we go these loungers follow, importuning 
 for employment. If we look towards a church or a 
 gondola, half a dozen ragamuffins offer suggestions and 
 guidance. We are beset by guides, pedlers and beg- 
 gars. 
 
 But the event and pageant of our stay in Venice 
 was the reception and fete given to King Humbert 
 and Queen Marghcrita. From the heartiness and 
 enthusiasm displayed on this occasion, we judged that 
 the "effete despotisms" of Europe are not* quite 
 played out. A new lease of life seems to be accorded 
 to them, at least so far as the reign of the new king 
 and queen of Italy is concerned. The booming cannon 
 announced their arrival at the station ; and this was 
 the signal for scores of church bells to swell the grand 
 chorus of welcome. The Grand Canal was the route 
 of the royal pair from the station to the palace on St. 
 Mark's Square, followed, escorted, and surrounded 
 by a fleet of six thousand gondolas. It was a gala- 
 day, and the Venetian lads and lasses appeared at 
 their best. The scene of the Grand Canal beggars 
 description. The pencil of Titian might paint a pic- 
 ture like it, with all its wealth of color and beauty of 
 effect, but how poor and empty is a pen-picture of 
 such a novel and indescribable spectacle. The enthu- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 431 
 
 siasm of the populace was at fever heat. Flags, ban- 
 ners, and tapestries were flying in the breeze and 
 hanging from the windows and balconies of the palaces 
 on either side of the water-paved street. Gondolas 
 in countless numbers were flitting hither and thither, 
 mostly on their way to the station ; others were seek- 
 ing a place by the shore, to await the procession. 
 There were large ones and small ones, some adorned 
 with ribbons and streamers, others decked with flow- 
 ers, velvets, and laces, and rich fringes sweeping the 
 waters. The gondoliers were dressed in the nattiest 
 of suits, embracing all the colors of the rainbow : 
 their white shirts and pants, with their broad blue 
 collars, and blue bands upon their white hats, and 
 their blue and scarlet sashes dansjlins: from their 
 waists gave a most fairy-like effect to the glowing 
 picture. The large and most richly-decked gondola 
 that bore the royal party was drawn by a steam-tug. 
 As they passed along, it seemed as though they would 
 be swamped by the flood of flowers that fell upon 
 them from window and balcony on -every side. It 
 was indeed "the Carnival of Venice," and well worth 
 a journey over the ocean to see. 
 
 In the evening, the Square of St. Mark was illu- 
 minated and densely packed with the people eager to 
 get a view of the king and queen. In answer to the 
 incessant cheers and applause of the great crowd the 
 royal pair occasionally appeared upon the balcony of 
 
432 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the palace, when it seemed as if the Venetians would 
 go wild with their tumultuous shouts and cheers. 
 Margherita waved her handkerchief, and the Kin": 
 swung high in air his plumed hat, and it was midnight 
 ere the great square was emptied of its loyal and 
 demonstrative subjects. 
 
 In going from Venice to Florence we pass through 
 Padua, whose railway station was being dismantled of 
 its profuse decorations in honor of the recent visit of 
 the king and queen ; Ferrara, recently a populous 
 city, but now almost deserted on account of its low, 
 marshy, and unhealthy climate ; and Bologna, the city 
 of sausages. 
 
 We then cross the Apennines, rising about two 
 thousand five hundred feet above the sea, and pass 
 through a succession of forty-five tunnels, two or 
 three of which are a mile long. 
 
 It was an enchanting scene, as we descended the 
 steep grade under the soft and magical light of the 
 moon, showing us the clear outlines of the mountains, 
 with the white houses and villas perched upon their 
 sides, and the dark, deep gorges and chasms into 
 which the light of moon and stars could not penetrate. 
 
 Our visit to " Florence the Fair " was anticipated 
 with no ordinary degree of pleasure ; for it is not 
 only one" of the most beautiful cities in the world, but 
 it was the cradle of the renaissance, and contains more 
 art treasures than any other capital, unless it be Rome. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 433 
 
 In the first place, its location is lovely, in the fertile 
 valley of the Arno, surrounded by gently sloping 
 hills, which are covered by vines and olive-trees, and 
 in the distance a few sharp peaks, which seem to be 
 where they are for the simple purpose of reflecting 
 the morning and evening light and giving a finish to 
 the charming landscape. The whole valley is highly 
 cultivated, and the vineyards stretch, on climbing ter- 
 races, to the very tops of the hills, all of which are 
 crowned by imposing edifices, villas, churches, and 
 monasteries. 
 
 The Arno runs through the city from east to west, 
 leaving about three-fourths of it on the north side, and 
 the other fourth on the south. No commerce vexes 
 it, and it is almost too rapid for pleasure-boats. 
 It runs over artificial dams, at the upper and lower 
 parts of the city, making graceful and musical falls. 
 Some of r the bridges are lined on both sides with 
 gay shops and most attractive show-windows. The 
 quays give a delightful finish to the banks of the river, 
 and form agreeable promenades, which are always 
 thronged in pleasant weather. That on the north side 
 continues directly along the river-bank, to a magnifi- 
 cent park, the Cascine, which on sunny afternoons 
 presents a gay scene of brilliant turnouts, and multi- 
 tudes of men, women and children afoot. But this 
 preface scarcely touches upon the charm of Florence 
 to the stranger. Its beautiful setting, in a soft; but 
 
434 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 varied Italian landscape, is only worthy of the gem. 
 It contains much that is old and much that is new ; 
 but the two harmonize happily together. 
 
 It is a gay capital of the nineteenth century, as 
 modern, vivacious, and enterprising, apparently, as 
 Boston ; but its architecture illustrates its wonderful 
 history, with every form that has been evolved for a 
 thousand years. And it is such architecture as we see 
 nowhere else. It is neither Grecian nor Gothic, but 
 a peculiar form, evolved by a great race of men, in a 
 great era, influenced by every form of art, yet daring 
 to be original, seeking, finding, and creating. Besides, 
 this architecture is the natural growth of surrounding 
 circumstances, and so illustrates history. The Tus- 
 cans of the Middle Ages were stormy, turbulent, 
 quick-tempered, given to broils, to rebellions, to civil 
 strife, to feuds that lasted for generations. 
 
 The old palaces, half fortresses, which still are 
 picturesque features in Florence, tell of these times. 
 They are square, solid and lofty. The first stories 
 are made of rough stones of great size, scarcely 
 smoothed. The windows in these stories are small 
 and heavily barred. The entrance is by a square 
 court, which the building surrounds. The upper 
 stories are somewhat lighter and more elegant, but 
 still massive and unpretentious, the architect seeking 
 effect only by grandeur and harmony of proportions. 
 We noticed some twenty or thirty large palaces, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 435 
 
 dating from the twelfth to the sixteenth century, 
 which answer to this general description, and in the 
 Pitti Palace, begun in the fifteenth and finished in the 
 sixteenth century, these characteristics find their ex- 
 treme expression. In this palace the first story is 
 made of enormous blocks of stone, some of them 
 fifteen or twenty feet long, and almost as rough as 
 when they came from the quarry. There is no attempt 
 to ornament the facade. It presents, in three stories, 
 three masses, growing smaller as they rise. The 
 effect of the whole is of massive and dignified grand- 
 eur. It looks as imperishable as a mountain, and as 
 immovable. Another specimen, more picturesque, 
 because much older and ruder of construction, is the 
 Palazzo Vecchio, or old Palace, in the Piazz& della 
 Signoria. This palace was erected in the thirteenth 
 century, though a long time afterwards it was altered 
 and furnished with a lofty tower. It is as grim as a 
 prison of the Middle Ages ; but it was formerly the 
 seat of the government, and one of the palaces of the 
 Medici, whose court was the centre of art and scholar- 
 ship three or 'four hundred years ago. Speaking of 
 the Medici, it is curious to observe how they pervade 
 Florence. Palaces, bridges, churches and villas are 
 their monuments, and most of the numerous statues 
 bear their names. They began as merchants, and 
 became princes ; and much of the fame of Florence, in 
 the history of art, is due to their magnificent patron- 
 
436 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 age. Art would have advanced without them; but 
 they made Florence the centre, and gave it the lead 
 in that fruitful period when every art flourished. 
 
 The objects of special interest in Florence, are the 
 Cathedral; the Baptistry; the Campanile, or bell- 
 tower; the Uffizzi Gallery and Pitti Palace, with 
 their museums and galleries of art ; the Boboli Gar- 
 dens, with their rich foliage and shady walks ; the 
 convents and churches, rich with works of art; and a 
 large number of public and private edifices, which 
 wealth has adorned and beautified. 
 
 The churches of Florence are a feature of unfailing 
 interest to the stranger, for the religious history of this 
 city is as interesting as its political, and the churches 
 drew all arts to their adornment. The Baptistry dates 
 from the eighth century, some say the sixth. It was 
 fashioned after the Pantheon at Eome. It is covered 
 with black and white marble, grown brown and yellow 
 with age, which elates from the thirteenth century. 
 But what merits special attention are the magnifi- 
 cent bronze gates, so celebrated in the history of 
 the fine arts. One is by Pisano, and two by Ghiberti. 
 Of the latter, Michael Angelo said they were " worthy 
 to be the gates of Paradise." There are scores of 
 scenes in Bible history wrought upon these doors. 
 The figures in these pictures are smaller than we 
 expected, and yet their execution is marvellous. 
 Skill, patience, and genius are indubitably stamped 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 437 
 
 upon the work ; but, after all, they seem but an 
 inadequate result of a labor of forty years ; for that 
 is the period Ghiberti was occupied upon them, ac- 
 cording to Vasari. 
 
 But the Cathedral, or II Duomo, as every one calls 
 it, which was begun in the thirteenth century, and 
 was over a hundred years in building, better illustrates 
 the spirit of the Florentines. When determining to 
 build it, they set about it with the avowed intention 
 of making the most magnificent building in the 
 world. It would be impossible to describe its perfect 
 external graces. The dome, erected more than a hun- 
 dred years before, by Brunelleschi, is the one from 
 which Michael Angelo modelled that of St. Peter's ; 
 and he is said to have looked back at II Duomo, as he 
 left Florence for Rome, and cried out, "I may build a 
 greater dome, but I can never make one more beauti- 
 ful." It is Gothic, but Italian Gothic, entirely differ- 
 ent from the Gothic cathedrals of Northern Europe. 
 In size it is immense : five hundred and fifty feet long, 
 and three hundred and forty feet broad across the 
 transept, with an enormous dome, surpassing in height 
 and circumference that of St. Peter's at Rome, which, 
 with its lantern, rises to a height of three hundred and 
 fifty-four feet. But inside, it is only impressive on 
 account of its size. The exterior is covered with 
 black and white marble, some of which has become 
 brown and yellow, arranged in patterns, — squares, 
 
438 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 diamonds, oblongs, &c. It is a great mosaic, impres- 
 sive not only for its grand dimensions, but compelling 
 admiration by the beauty of its finish. At one corner 
 rises the Campanile, nearly three hundred feet high, 
 of the same rich materials ; square, with projecting 
 corners, and so elaborately decorated with statuary 
 and carvings, that Hawthorne, when he saw it, could 
 only think of a column of ivory, enriched by the 
 patient toil of some devoted artist, and then by magic 
 multiplied a hundred fold. How they did build 
 churches in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries ! 
 It must have been a very active time in the church. 
 Here in Florence, besides the Cathedral, the Santa 
 Croce, Maria Novella, Annunziata, Michele, San 
 Marco, the Misericordia, and, perhaps, many more 
 of less importance, were begun in the last part of the 
 thirteenth century. The most of them were built on 
 a magnificent scale, with marble fagades, some with 
 marble cloisters, carved stalls, mosaics, statues, pic- 
 tures, bas-reliefs, &c, &c. 
 
 The church of Santa Croce is Italy's Westminster 
 Abbey. Here repose the remains, and mausoleums of 
 her mighty dead. Michael Angelo, Machiavelli, Gali- 
 leo, Leonardo Bruno, and Alfieri, here sleep side by 
 side. Here also is an honorary tomb to Dante, a 
 superb marble monument, inscribed, "Honor to the 
 greatest poet." But Dante himself sleeps at Eavenna : 
 
 " Ungrateful Florence ! Dante sleeps afar ! n 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 439 
 
 The people of Ravenna very properly refused to 
 surrender to the tardy justice of the Florentines, the 
 remains of the illustrious foreigner whose last sigh 
 they had received ; and Florence could only show her 
 sensibility to the genius of her greatest writer by 
 the empty honors of a cenotaph. 
 
 The Medicean Chapel is the great mausoleum in 
 Florence. It was built to receive the Holy Sepulchre 
 of our Lord, which the Emir Faccardino had prom- 
 ised to get out of the hands of the Infidels ; but being 
 deluded in this hope, Cosmo the Second destined it to 
 receive the tombs of his family. It is as large as a 
 church. The walls of the chapel are encrusted with 
 the richest marble and precious stones, such as 
 porphyry, verde-antique, jasper, agate, alabaster, 
 mother-of-pearl, red coral, and lapis-lazuli. Its great 
 dome glows with magnificent frescoes. The cenotaphs 
 of the Medici family, which are ranged around the 
 walls, sparkle with gems. Rubies, turquoises, and 
 topazes are lavished upon them with "a profusion which 
 recalls our youthful visions of Aladdin's palace . Before 
 one of these statues reposes a crown that blazes with 
 diamonds and emeralds enough to buy a ship-of-the- 
 line. No less than $25,000,000 have been expended 
 upon this costly toy. 
 
 The Pitti Palace and Ufizzi Gallery, those world- 
 renowned art centres, are connected by a long corri- 
 dor, lined with tapestries that have held the art- 
 
440 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 student's admiring gaze for centuries. The Pitti 
 Palace contains five hundred paintings, all of great 
 value, and many of them the finest works of the old 
 masters. 
 
 What can we say of the Ufizzi Gallery ? One wants 
 a year to see, and a large volume even to hint at its 
 treasures. The impressions borne away from these 
 grand storehouses are too diverse and too numerous 
 to be transmitted' by the pen. It contains thirteen 
 hundred paintings. It is a universal depot, a sort of 
 Louvre, containing paintings of all times and schools, 
 bronzes, statues, sculptures, antique and modern 
 terra-cottas, cabinets of gems, an Etruscan museum, 
 artists' portraits painted by themselves, twenty-eight 
 thousand original drawings, four thousand cameos and 
 ivories, and eight} 7 thousand medals. 
 
 Here, for the first time, the traveller from the north 
 is made to feel the full power of art, for though Paris, 
 Dresden, Munich, Vienna, Venice, and Bologna are 
 rich in pictures, "yet in sculpture there is very little 
 till you come to Florence. In the galleries and cor- 
 ridors of the Ufizzi we comprehend, for the first time, 
 what is meant by the antique, and see the Greek and 
 Eoman mind as it expressed itself in bronze and 
 marble. At first every one hurries to the Tribune, 
 that celebrated room, unsurpassed by any in the 
 world for the number and value of the gems it con- 
 tains ; and probably no one ever opened the door of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 441 
 
 that world-renowned apartment, for the first time, 
 without a quickened movement of the heart. The 
 floor is paved with precious marbles, and the ceiling 
 studded with polished mother-of-pearl. It is lighted 
 from above. Here are assembled sonic of the most 
 remarkable works of art in the world. There are 
 four statues, the Venus cle Medici, the Knife-Grinder, 
 the Dancing Faun, a charming little Apollo of sixteen 
 years, and a group, the Wrestlers. On the walls are 
 hung five pictures by Raphael, three by Titian, one by 
 Michael Angelo, four by Correggio, and several others 
 by artists of inferior name. Of course the Venus de 
 Medici, the "goddess living in stone," is the presiding 
 divinity of the place. She is a slender young girl, 
 only five feet high, with a small delicate head, not a 
 goddess, like the Venus de Milo, in the Louvre, 
 unconscious alike of her beauty and her nakedness — 
 into whose bosom no ray of human passion or human 
 weakness has ever darted — but a lovely woman who 
 knows her power and enjoys her triumphs. She is, 
 perhaps, a copy of that Venus of Cnidus, of which 
 Lucian relates an interesting story ; you imagine, 
 while looking at her, the youth's kisses pressed on the 
 marble lips, and the exclamations of Charicles, who, 
 on seeing it, declared Mars to \>g the most fortunate 
 of gods. On each side of the Venus cle Medici hangs 
 a Veiius by Titian, the size of life, and painted in 
 that rich and gorgeous style of coloring which has 
 been so often and vainly attempted since his time. 
 
442 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 The Group of Niobe has, very properly, a room 
 to itself, for a work of such great excellence and 
 such depth of feeling should be left to address the 
 heart, unmixed with inferior or even different matter. 
 This group has attracted great attention, and one 
 can see that the sculptor fully believed in the legend 
 it commemorates. It seems a most touching domestic 
 tragedy. The grief of Niobe is feminine, deep and 
 overwhelming, but not fierce and stru<™din2f. The 
 
 ©' O© © 
 
 dying youth is one of the most admirable figures in 
 the world, full of expression without distortion, a 
 serene image of death, at once mournful and soothing. 
 In the " Hall of the Old Masters " are pictures that 
 blossomed out of the very dawn of art, — Giottos, 
 and Cimabues, and Fra Angelicos. These last need 
 not fear comparison even with the latter works of the 
 great days when Titian and Raphael painted. Always 
 Fra Angelicos stand alone. Fra Angelico was a pious 
 monk — a truly believing soul — who never com- 
 menced a picture without a prayer. He lived an 
 absolutely holy life ; and the sweet reverence of his 
 saints, the exquisite purity of his Madonnas, almost 
 make you feel that, in answer to his prayers, blessed 
 souls must have kept him company, and sat to him for 
 their portraits. There is one picture of his at the 
 Academy of Fine Arts in Florence — "The Last 
 Judgment " — in which, seated on his throne of clouds, 
 the Lord judges the world. The Madonna, in a robe 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 443 
 
 of stars, sits below him, and looks up with adoration 
 in her eyes, and troops of shining saints come singing 
 into glory. No other painter has given such a glimpse 
 of heavenly joy. Here in Florence are some of the 
 loveliest of Raphael's Madonnas ; here are the ten- 
 derly painted holy families of Andrea del Sarto ; 
 here are wonderful painted Venuses of Titian, and 
 standing below them, the marble Venus de Medici, as 
 if she had strayed out of some gallery of statues to 
 come here and assert the majesty of sculpture. 
 
 The American colony in Florence is quite a large 
 one. Its basis is artistic, of course, but it includes 
 people of various conditions, attracted here by the 
 opportunities for aesthetic culture, by the agreeable 
 climate, and by the simple economic fact that the cul- 
 tivated resident gets more for his money here than 
 elsewhere. 
 
 The list of American sculptors has been consider- 
 able for many years, and is now increasing. Quite a 
 number of them have here made world-wide reputa- 
 tions. Thomas Ball, Thomas R. Gould, Launt Thomp- 
 son, and J. A. Jackson are doing good work, credit- 
 able to their countrymen and their own fame. 
 
 Mr. Powers, who was long the Nestor of American 
 sculptors in Florence, still lives in the many works 
 of his studio, where he is succeded by two sons, 
 Lono'worth and Preston. Lonjnvorth is the elder of 
 the two brothers, but he has only recently turned his 
 
444 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 attention to modelling. Preston is well advanced 
 towards his father's position. There are frequent 
 calls for the elder Powers's works, and the great 
 studio is quite an interesting museum of the heads or 
 full-length statues of distinguished Americans. Mrs. 
 Powers seems to be happily situated, in her hand- 
 some villa outside the Porta Eomana. She has her 
 married children, two sons and a daughter, settled 
 around her. Some of our party took this opportunity 
 to renew old acquaintanceship with the Powers family. 
 The cordiality of their reception, the revival of old and 
 by-gone memories, the pleasant chat upon art and social 
 life in Florence, is one of the most delightful recollec- 
 tions of that beautiful city. Their long absence 
 abroad has not dimmed their patriotism, or made them 
 less American in their feelings and sympathies. 
 
 The Protestant Cemetery is a place beautiful for the 
 living or the dead. It is situated on the outer edge 
 of Florence, where the skylark soars and sings, and 
 the cypress trees grow, and the roses cluster more 
 thickly than anywhere else, and fill the air with their 
 fragrance. Here, too, sleep some illustrious names. 
 Theodore Parker was buried here, and Walter Savage 
 Landor, Arthur Hugh Clough, Elizabeth Barrett 
 Browning, and many other well-known names. We 
 plucked a flower from Mrs. Browning's grave, which 
 we shall keep and cherish as a treasure. The distant 
 hills look down on these graves ; the blue Italian sky 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 445 
 
 arches them, — statelier dome than even Michael 
 Angelo could build ; the birds are the choir, whose 
 anthems reach to heaven ; and the winds blow by their 
 gales of fragrance, rifled from the flowers that bloom 
 forever. 
 
 A little way off, lies the city, — the fair flowei, 
 which one loves more and more the more one becomes 
 familiar with her charm. The Arno sparkles in sun- 
 shine or glooms in shadow ; the shops glitter with 
 their dazzling temptations ; the churches open theii 
 quiet doors, and offer you pictures and music, and 
 peace wherein to pray ; the galleries are rich with the 
 world's great wonders of art ; and the whole makes 
 up this Florence, this Tuscan lily, which Italy wears 
 like a blossom upon her bosom. 
 
 But we must leave Florence, however much we 
 might wish to dwell longer upon its beauties and 
 pleasures. We say good-by to the city of Dante 
 and Petrarch, the smiling Arno, the region of Italian 
 poetry, the studios of the artists, and speed our way 
 to the Eternal City. 
 
446 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER XT. 
 
 THE FIRST SECTION — ITALY CONTINUED. 
 
 Rome — St. Peter's — The Arch of Constantine — The Arch of Titus 
 
 — The Colosseum — The Ancient Gladiatorial Contests — The 
 Capitol — The Forum — The Pantheon — The Baths of Cara- 
 calla — The Appian Way — The Tomb of Cecilia Metella — The 
 Footsteps of St. Paul — The Mamertine Prison — St. Paul's 
 "Hired House"— The Basilica of St. Paul's Beyond the Walls 
 
 — The Holy Staircase — The Vatican and its Treasures — The 
 Sistine Chapel — Raphael's " Transfiguration " — The Apollo 
 Belvidere — The Laocoon — The Catacombs — A Visit to the 
 Pope — The Church of St. Clement — Recent Excavations — 
 The Roman Aqueducts — The Column of Trajan — The Castle 
 of St. Angelo — Beatrice Cenci — Presentation to Siguor Barat- 
 toni. 
 
 " Oh, Rome ! my country ! city of the soul !" 
 
 " The Niobe of nations ! there she stands 
 Childless and crownless, in her voiceless woe, 
 An empty urn within her withered hands, 
 Whose holy dust was scattered long ago." 
 
 No one can approach the "Eternal City," be he 
 antiquarian, artist, o*r student of history, without ex- 
 periencing a thrill in every fibre of his being. Rever- 
 ence for scenes of exalted deeds is a noble instinct 
 implanted in us for noble ends. It is inarticulate 
 adoration addressed not more to the understanding 
 than to the heart. Whatever withdraws us from the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 447 
 
 power of the senses ; whatever makes the past, the 
 distant, or the future predominate over the present, 
 advances us in the dignity of thinking beings. 
 
 It was a burning afternoon of an August day that 
 we approached Rome, and it was at a curve in the rail- 
 road, when miles away, the dome of St. Peter's stood 
 out in silhouette against the glowing sunset sky. We 
 entered the city by the Central Railway Station, situ- 
 ated on the Esquiline Hill. The approach is through 
 an aperture made in the wall of fortification, built by 
 Aurelian, at a spot about midway between the gates 
 called Porta Maggiore and Porta San Lorenzo. 
 
 We were beset at the station by as hungry a set of 
 loafers and beggars as ever waylaid a party of tourists. 
 Our valises and shawl-straps were seized nolens volens, 
 and we were, for a time, in a state of bewilderment, 
 not knowing whether we were beset by station-agents 
 and hotel-porters or a fierce band of Italian brigands. 
 They were requested by some, with politeness, and 
 ordered by others, with more than emphatic language, 
 to let the luggage alone. Not understanding Yankee 
 
 CO o © 
 
 dialect, nor heeding Yankee desires, they coolly bore' 
 our trappings to the carriages outside the station, and 
 then began to clamor for their fees. Most of us threw 
 a few pennies to the vagabonds, but one determined 
 he would not be imposed upon that way, and refused 
 a farthing to the fellow who had persistently disobeyed 
 his order to "put my baggage down, and let it alone." 
 
448 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Thereupon he carried his case to the Supreme Court — 
 our conductor, — who, being himself a Roman, decided 
 that his countryman was entitled to his reward for dis- 
 obeying the orders of the owner of the luggage. But 
 our brave knight of the law eloquently pleaded his 
 own case, perched aloft in air on the topmost seat of 
 the coach, to an admiring concourse of American fel- 
 low-citizens, and won a signal victory, thus early, over 
 the persistent and redoubtable Roman. Released from 
 the superserviceable loafers, we drove to the Hotel 
 d'Allemagne, near the Piazza di Spagna, at the base of 
 the Pincian Hill. 
 
 We arrived in Rome Saturday evening. After 
 breakfast, on Sunday morning, where should we go 
 but follow the surging tide across the Tiber, past the 
 Castle of St. Angelo, to St. Peter's, the grandest 
 temple ever reared by human hands ? The impressions 
 received by our party, on our first visit, were not 
 materially different from those recorded by other in- 
 telligent travellers. The approach to the building is 
 of the most magnificent character. On either hand 
 semicircular porticos, supported by four rows of 
 columns, enclose space enough between the two inner 
 rows for the passage of two carriages abreast. The 
 galleries and porticos, together, are not unlike, in 
 form, to sickles, of which the galleries make the 
 handles. All these structures are of the most colossal 
 size. The porticos are sixty-four feet high, and the holy 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 449 
 
 army of saints which crown the entablature — nearly 
 two hundred in number — are eleven feet high. But 
 so harmonious are the proportions that, when seen 
 from the centre of the piazza, the whole effect is light, 
 airy, and graceful. The galleries and porticos seem 
 like all-embracing arms of invitation extended by the 
 church to the whole Christian world, summoning them 
 to come and worship under the roof of this most ma- 
 jestic of temples. Standing in this grand court, with 
 the majestic colonnades sweeping around ; the fountains 
 on either side sending up their showers of silver spray ; 
 the mighty Egyptian obelisk piercing the sky ; and, 
 beyond, the great front and dome of the Cathedral, 
 we confessed our unmingled admiration. It recalled 
 to our mind the grandeur of ancient Rome, and, mighty 
 as her edifices must have been, we doubt if there were 
 many views more imposing than this. 
 
 The square ascends towards the church, and a mag^ 
 nificent flight of steps, the whole width of the facade, 
 leads up to the doors. The facade itself is enormous 
 in its proportions ; the figures will give an idea of it. 
 It is three hundred and seventy-nine feet long, and 
 one hundred and fifty-two feet high, surmounted by a 
 balustrade and colossal statues of the Saviour and the 
 Apostles. The portico is. two hundred and thirty-six 
 feet long, forty-two wide, sixty-eight high, magnifi- 
 cently decorated with stucco ; with equestrian statues 
 of Charlemagne and Constantine in niches at the end. 
 
450 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 From the portico, we push aside the heavy leathern 
 curtain, and stand in the great nave. We need not 
 describe our feelings as we gazed upon this miracle ; 
 but will speak of its dimensions, and let the reader 
 fancy them. Before us was a marble plain over six 
 hundred feet long, and under the cross four hundred 
 and seventeen feet wide ! One hundred and fifty feet 
 above, sprang a glorious arch, dazzling with inlaid gold, 
 and in the centre of the cross there were four hundred 
 feet of air between us and the top of the dome. The 
 sunbeam stealing through the lofty window at one end 
 of the transept, made a bar of light on the blue air, 
 hazy with incense, nearly an eighth of a mile long, 
 before it fell on the mosaics and gilded shrines of the 
 other extremity. The grand cupola alone, including 
 the lantern and cross, is two hundred and eighty-five 
 feet high, or sixty-five feet higher than the Bunker 
 Hill Monument; and the four immense pillars, on 
 which it rests, are each one hundred and thirty-seven 
 feet in circumference ! We were as much surprised 
 at the freshness of the interior, as we have been at 
 the dinginess of other churches, notably St. Mark's at 
 Venice. The whole surface taken in by the eye, shines 
 with marble and gilding. Everything is in perfect 
 order, as if just made. But the first view gives no 
 idea of the size of the building. Everything is on an 
 immense scale. The marble cherubs, in high relief on 
 the columns, are six feet long. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 451 
 
 A constellation of lamps burning over the tomb of 
 St. Peter, just beneath the high altar, in the centre of 
 the cross, helps the mind to form some conception of 
 the immense size of the building. They shine like 
 stars in a distant firmament. People moving about in 
 the parts, are dwarfed to pigmies. But even after 
 walking about it, and returning to it again and again, 
 the dimensions remain a mystery. It covers nearly 
 five acres of land. Nothing obstructs the full length 
 of the nave but the high altar in the centre where 
 the transept crosses, covered by the baldachino, a highly 
 ornate canopy, which rests upon four prodigious 
 twisted pillars of bronze and gilt. This canopy, 
 which is ninety-five feet high, has been much de- 
 nounced by purists in architecture ; but it seems to be 
 in keeping with the whole building, which is magnifi- 
 cent and grandiose in the extreme. The impression 
 one gets after repeated visits is, that somebody with 
 unlimited means said to his architects and workmen : 
 [- Let us make the most gorgeous building that was 
 ever known among men." And the idea was carried 
 out. This is undoubtedly the most magnificent temple 
 ever built by man, though it is not the most beautiful 
 or impressive. It excites wonder and admiration ; 
 but does not inspire awe like one of those grand 
 Gothic cathedrals, as York or Cologne. 
 
 On further examination, we find that St. Peter's is 
 not one church only, but many churches assembled 
 
452 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 together, still preserving unity. Every part harmon- 
 izes, from the pavement, a mosaic of marble, to the 
 grandly swelling dome. Even the magnificent monu- 
 ments in the aisles and chapels, many of them in 
 exceedingly bad taste, do not jar in the grand chorus 
 of effects produced to the eye. Some object that St. 
 Peter's does not give an idea of a religious temple 
 (for it is a church, a museum, a gallery of art, and a 
 mausoleum) ; that its enormous richness does not lead 
 the soul upward to things spiritual, but rather turns 
 it to thoughts of earthly greatness. The criticism 
 may be just; but it cannot be denied that it is the 
 appropriate and sumptuous headquarters of that great 
 ecclesiastic establisment, which, at the highest tide of 
 its grandeur and power, controlled the destiny of 
 empires. 
 
 We were specially fortunate in having Shakespeare 
 Wood, the eminent English archaeologist, as our guide 
 in Home ; for though our conductor, Signor Barattoni, 
 was a Roman " to the manner born," yet Mr. Wood, 
 who has made Roman archeology a specialty for nearly 
 thirty years, has no equal in that field of sight and 
 study ; and the few days we were under his pilotage, 
 were worth more to us in gaining reliable information 
 upon Roman history, architecture, painting, sculpture, 
 and ruins of the Eternal City, than months of time 
 spent in ordinary sight-seeing. In a city whose his- 
 tory joins so closely upon mythological story and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 453 
 
 legend, we found Mr. Wood's •" scientific process " of 
 great value in untangling the mazy knot of fable, 
 tradition, and reliable historical data ; and in sifting 
 out the truth and facts having an historical basis. 
 
 What Mr. Wood, with his clear, scientific mind, 
 stamped as authentic, we felt safe in accepting as a 
 probable truth, Mr. Wood is high authority in 
 Eoman archeology, and the non-scientific mind feels 
 that where there is doubt or uncertainty, his conclu- 
 sions rest upon a preponderating weight of evidence. 
 
 His criticisms upon art matters were listened to with 
 great interest, as from a connoisseur, and the fruit of 
 large experience and wide information. He was intro- 
 duced, and dined with us Sabbath evening, and, in his 
 after-dinner remarks, he gave us a pretty and sensible 
 speech of welcome. He told us we were there in 
 the season of "Roman fever." For illustration, he 
 drew from "The Pilgrim's Progress," saying, "The 
 lion is here, but he is chained." "If we get in 
 his way, if we lie down at his side, we shall be in 
 his jaws ere we are aware of it." He cautioned all 
 to take special care of themselves ; not to drink 
 much cold water, and no brandy, but take pure 
 wines in their stead (we were a temperance party, 
 and wines and strong drink, for the most part, were 
 given a wide berth) , and to keep in-doors in the mid- 
 dle of the clay. "From the night air there is noth- 
 ing to fear." This last statement was applauded by 
 
454 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the "paired-off couples-," who had feared their even- 
 ing strolls would have to be given up while in Rome ; 
 and moreover, they could see the Colosseum by moon- 
 light, and this is an experience few visitors to Rome 
 omit. 
 
 In the small space allotted us, we quite despair of 
 giving the reader anything like a complete picture of 
 the manifold scenes that attract the stranger to Rome, 
 The theme is so vast, the details so diverse, that we 
 are baffled upon what subjects to write, and where to 
 begin. There are seven basilicas in Rome, and over 
 three hundred churches, and it is a common saying 
 that the Pope might say mass every day in the year in 
 a different church. And each of these churches might 
 be regarded as a museum and art gallery, adorned 
 with cJief-cVceuvres of the old masters, where hours 
 and hours might be pleasantly passed. 
 
 Our first visit was to see the Triumphal Arches of 
 Constantine and Titus. These arches were monuments 
 to the vanity of living emperors and generals, and 
 equally available as expressions of gratitude and re- 
 spect, reared to the memory of those who had so lived 
 as to be regretted after death. In their form and 
 structure, the resources both of architecture and 
 sculpture were called into exercise. The Arch of 
 Constantine is the most imposing and the best pre- 
 served of these structures. When this was reared, 
 the pernicious habit had already begun of piecing 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 455 
 
 out new buildings with patches torn from old ones, 
 and the fragments of earlier works are wrought into 
 this. Many of its sculptures and bas-reliefs are known 
 to have been those which were carved to honor the 
 Emperor Trajan, who reigned two centuries before 
 Constantine. It was erected in honor of the great 
 victory over Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, now 
 called the Ponte Molle, situated about two miles 
 beyond the Porta del Popolo. Seen from a short dis- 
 tance, and taken as a whole, it presents the appear- 
 ance of a grand work of art and architecture com- 
 bined ; but examined in detail, it is found to be a 
 remarkable piece of architectural patchwork. The 
 inscriptions relate to Constantine ; but the greater 
 part of the sculptures belong to the time of Trajan, 
 and illustrate events in his reign ; some also belong to 
 an intervening period, possibly to the time of the 
 Gordians. 
 
 The Arch of Titus is the most graceful in form 
 of all the Roman arches. The great interest which 
 attaches to it arises from the representations which its 
 bas-reliefs contain. On the inside of the arch are 
 represented two scenes from the triumphal entry of 
 Titus, after the war. On one side, Titus in his 
 triumphal chariot, drawn by four horses, preceded by 
 a personification of Rome, and surrounded by senators, 
 and lictors carrying the fasces. On the other, soldiers 
 bearing the chief trophies brought from Jerusalem, 
 
456 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the golden table, the seven-branch candlestick, and 
 the silver trumpet of the Jubilee. The vault of the 
 arch is ornamented with rosettes and sunk panels, and, 
 in the centre, is a representation of the apotheosis of 
 Titus. The Jews, to this day, it is said, never pass 
 under this arch; avoiding the sight of this mournful 
 record of the downfall of their country and the dese- 
 cration of their religion. 
 
 Adjacent to these arches is that grandest ruin in all 
 the world, the Flavian Amphitheatre, commonly called 
 the Colosseum, a name it received from the venerable 
 T>ccle in the eighth century, from its enormous propor- 
 tions, which make it a Colossus among buildings. It 
 was called the Flavian Amphitheatre from the three 
 Emperors of the Flavian family, Vespasian, Titus, and 
 Domitian. It was founded by Vespasian, about the 
 year 72, on the site of the ornamental lake in Nero's 
 garden. In the year 80, Titus dedicated it with games 
 which lasted a hundred days, and during which nine 
 thousand wild animals were slain on s the arena ; and it 
 was completed by Domitian, who added the shields 
 and ornaments which surmounted the cornice. Accord- 
 ing to the traditions of the Church, thirty thousand 
 Jewish prisoners of war were employed in building it ; 
 and an inscription discovered in the Catacomb of St. 
 Agnes, now in the crypt of the Church of Sta. Martina, 
 has led to the supposition that the architect was a cer- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 457 
 
 tain Gaudentius, who became a Christian and himself 
 suffered martyrdom on the arena. 
 
 The Colosseum is the one great central figure in all 
 imaginations of ancient Rome, and, in fact, one that 
 always rose in fancy's pictures when we wondered if 
 we should ever visit the old city. 
 
 That sturdy, enduring monument of the past, that 
 has witnessed the triumphs and excesses of successive 
 tyrants, echoed to the shouts of Rome's populace in 
 her palmiest clays ; whose arena has been soaked with 
 the blood of barbarian gladiators and Christian mar- 
 tyrs ; whose walls have withstood the assaults of van- 
 dal conquerors, the inexorable tooth of time, and, 
 more than all these, the vandal-like assaults of modern 
 Romans themselves ! It has been degraded to be a 
 fortress, factory, and stone quarry, and plundered by 
 ancient vandals, who wrenched off its marble sheathing 
 for the metal bolts in the wall, and by modern ctese- 
 crators who carried away its solid blocks of stone to 
 build four palaces. Despite all the injury wrought by 
 ancient spoiler and modern plunderer, it is still impres- 
 sive from the symmetry and grandeur of its propor- 
 tions ; while the interior arrangements, which can be 
 plainly traced, for the accommodation of more than 
 eighty thousand spectators, were so perfect as to elicit 
 to-day the admiration of modern architects. The 
 shape of the Colosseum, a grand ellipse, is familiar to 
 all. Between the arches are, or were, columns through- 
 
458 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 out the whole circumference, and each successive ring 
 or tier of arches and columns was of a different order 
 of architecture ; the lowest, Doric ; the next, Ionic ; 
 the third, Corinthian ; and the fourth, of the Attic style 
 of architecture. The whole structure covered about six 
 acres. Its height is about one hundred and sixty feet. 
 The space occupied by the arena is two hundred and 
 eighty-seven feet long by one hundred and seventy- 
 seven in width ; and to accomplish its circumference, 
 you must walk one-third of a mile. No one who is at 
 all familiar with the bloody scenes enacted on this 
 spot, so famous in the world's history, can stand here 
 for the first time without a thrill of emotion. Imag- 
 ination at once recreates the vast circle ; and tier on 
 tier of galleries rise above the visitor ; great swelling 
 waves of spectators, all with their eyes of eager antici- 
 pation. You can almost imagine you hear the hum 
 and murmur of the vast throng in the marble balconies 
 that ring in the bloody battle-ground ; the muffled 
 growls of the wild beasts behind their iron gratings in 
 the lower wall of the arena, becoming more distinct in 
 the hush of expectation that succeeds, as the specta- 
 tors lean forward in breathless interest when the gladi- 
 ators cautiously approach each other to cross weapons 
 in deadly combat. 
 
 Do not suppose that only two or three gladiators or 
 half a dozen wild beasts were let loose at once in the 
 amphitheatre. Had this been all, a far smaller space 
 
 i 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 459 
 
 would have sufficed. This vast area was the result of 
 a bloody appetite that grew upon what it fed, and a 
 thousand savage beasts a clay have fallen within its 
 dreadful circle ; gladiators by hundreds at a time have 
 closed in deadly contest with each other, and piled the 
 ground with scores of slaughtered combatants. Ele- 
 phants fought with lions, tigers with bears, bulls Avith 
 leopards ; and ostriches, stags, boars, giraffes, and even 
 cranes and pigmies were brought into the arena. Here 
 Hadrian celebrated his birth-day by the slaughter of a 
 hundred lions and as many lionesses, beside eight hun- 
 dred other wild beasts ; and the arena was so arranged, 
 as has been recorded and since been proved by recent 
 excavations, that it could be flooded with water and 
 the spectators treated to a representation of a sea-fight, 
 the combatants being gladiators in galleys that met 
 upon the water and engaged in deadly contest. The 
 Emperor Probus had, about A. D. 280, a grand wild- 
 beast slaughter here, and at another time he had in the 
 ring six hundred gladiators and seven hundred wild 
 beasts. At length Constantine, in 330, made a law 
 prohibiting gladiatorial combats ; but the people were 
 too fond of the bloody spectacle to give it lip. 
 Seventy years after, however, when Christianity was 
 four centuries old, and the brutal gladiatorial com- 
 bat was in full progress, a Christian monk leaped 
 from the podium into the arena, and rushing amid the 
 combatants entreated them with prayers to separate. 
 
460 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Enraged at the interruption, the Praetor Alybius bade 
 the gladiators kill the intruder, and the monk Tele- 
 machus paid the penalty of his life for this noble 
 endeavor ; but it was a successful one, for the Emperor 
 Honorius abolished gladiatorial combats from that time ; 
 and Telemaehus, who was hewn down by gladiators, 
 marked with his death the day of the last gladiatorial 
 combat in the Flavian Amphitheatre. 
 
 No language contains a word of more expression 
 and significance than the Roman Capitol, nor is there 
 a spot on earth more full of historical interest.. It 
 was at once a fortress and a temple ; the head of the 
 Roman State and the shrine of their religion. Ascend- 
 ing the tower we are undoubtedly presented with an 
 area more densely crowded with the footprints of his- 
 tory, from the time Eneas landed to that of Augustus, 
 from that to the present day, than from any other point 
 on the face of the earth. From that, a scene of varied and 
 magnificent beauty unfolds itself to the eye, in which 
 the natural features, grand and striking as they are, 
 are lost in that magic charm of association, which 
 gives a richer verdure to the plain, a deeper purple to 
 the hills, a finer blue to the sky, and bathes every 
 roof in spiritual light. The history and literature of 
 Rome are lying at our feet, and the living landscape 
 is a page on which is written one-half of all that we 
 have learned at school and at college. Here lies the 
 city, -r- once of one, two, three, some say five millions 
 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 461 
 
 of inhabitants, — in the centre of this vast plain, one 
 city, one plain, surrounded on the outskirts by the 
 Apennines, Soracte, and the Mediterranean. From 
 fifteen to twenty miles in every direction, the early 
 inhabitants could detect the approach of an enemy, 
 in the infant days of the republic, an advantage to 
 which may have been owing many a deliverance and 
 many a triumph ; a natural position of strength, to 
 which she must have been indebted /or her prosperity, 
 almost as much as to her statesmen and her generals. 
 But first, as you look off from the tower of the Capi- 
 tol, the eye falls upon the very objects directly under 
 you, for which you have been waiting with a fever of 
 impatience ; the time-worn vestiges, the sublime yet 
 melancholy ruins of the ancient city. At your feet 
 you behold the Forum, that name which can never be 
 uttered without emotion ; the remaining columns of 
 the Temple of Jupiter Tonans ; the Triumphal Arch of 
 Septimius Severus, almost perfect in its form, and 
 bearing to-day the inscription placed upon it two 
 thousand years ago ; the temple of the virtuous 
 Antonine and his wife, the dissolute Faustina; the 
 huge brick arches of the Temple of Peace ; and, far- 
 ther on in the same direction of the Sacred Way, 
 the Arch of Titus, and the Colosseum. On the right 
 of that, and a little nearer, on the summit of the 
 Palatine, — a low swell of ground, — you see the 
 remains of the Palace of the Caesars ; then the Aven- 
 
462 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 tine, crowned with convents and churches ; the Tiber 
 flowing below ; and, east of that, the immense remains 
 of the Baths of Caracalla. Then turning south, your 
 eye surveys the graceful dome of the Pantheon, and the 
 magnificent masses of the unrivalled Vatican. These, 
 all within the walls of Rome. Then without, you con- 
 template the wide-spreading Campagna ; the site of 
 Alba Longa, on the Alban Hills ; the Sabine Hills ; 
 the long ranges of. the Apennines, with Tusculum and 
 Tiber, and the ruins of Cicero's and Horace's villas 
 on their slopes, till the scene is shut in by Monte 
 Mario, a few miles without the gates, and the lofty 
 walls of St. Peter's and the Janiculum. This brief 
 survey of the city from this lofty tower of observa- 
 tion, with your recollections in your head and your 
 maps before you, is itself worth a visit to Europe. 
 Indeed, to pass a morning there, simply studying the 
 relations in respect to position and distance of places 
 so remarkable in Roman history and poetry, is the 
 best commentary possible upon all you have read or 
 remember, and leaves impressions on the mind that 
 can never be effaced ; sheds the light of day upon the 
 youthful studies of the Viri Romse, Virgil, Horace, 
 Livy ; converts obscurity and fable into probability 
 and substantial truth. 
 
 The Capitol Hill is the highest point in Rome, and 
 crowned by some extremely ugly edifices, by Michael 
 Angelo, but adorned by the finest equestrian statue in 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 463 
 
 the world, that of Marcus Aurelius, as it was once by 
 the most magnificent citadel and temple in the world, 
 covering many acres. This hill retains something of 
 its ancient elevation, though by the crumbling away 
 of the summit and the filling up at the base, one may 
 easily conjecture it to have lost a portion of its origi- 
 nal height. On the eastern side is the Tarpeian Rock, 
 still a rock, and still, notwithstanding all its losses 
 and the filling up below, retaining sufficient height to 
 serve its former purpose of execution, by pitching 
 criminals from its highest point. The far-famed Pala- 
 tine, where the cottage of Romulus long stood, and, 
 in marvellous contrast with it, Nero's golden house 
 afterwards, and which the Emperor Vespasian demol- 
 ished, as a dwelling too sumptuous for any mortal, 
 has lost nearly all of its original elevation, save the 
 ruins by which its covered. At the foot of the Pala- 
 tine, extending from the Capitol toward the Colos- 
 seum, is the Roman Forum, a rectangle, as the anti- 
 quarians tell us, of more than a thousand feet in 
 length by about eight hundred in breadth. On the 
 four sides of this small square once stood a crowd of 
 the noblest public edifices of Rome. Temples, basili- 
 cas, comitise, curiae, all adorned in the sumptuous 
 manner by columns, flights of steps, statues of marble 
 and bronze, and by rostra or pulpits, from which the 
 orators harangued the people on all occasions of great 
 political excitement. Of this thrice-celebrated place 
 
464 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 scarce a vestige now remains. A portico of six or 
 eight columns of the Temple of Concord, the Arch of 
 Septimius Severus, three pillars of a temple of Jupi- 
 ter, a portico of the Temple of Antoninus and Faus- 
 tina ; these are all that now serve to mark the spot 
 where, so long, once dwelt the seat of that vast power, 
 at the name of which the earth trembled. Nowhere 
 else in Rome does one experience the sensations that 
 crowd upon the mind as he paces to and fro along the 
 site of the Forum, with the hill of the Capitol towering 
 above him ; the remains of the Palace of * the Cassars 
 clothing the Palatine on one side, and, in front, the 
 monarch of ruin, the Flavian Amphitheatre, character- 
 istic funeral monuments all, of the greatest of earthly 
 empires. 
 
 The Pantheon, — built by Agrippa, and presented 
 by him to Augustus, — happily, like the Colosseum, 
 stands open and free to all. This beautiful object, so 
 well preserved as to make one doubt whether it be a 
 church of the Middle Ages, or a building twelve or 
 fifteen hundred years older, is in the heart of the 
 modern town, covering one side of a small square. 
 Though time seems hardly to have made any impres- 
 sion upon it, yet even a careless inspection shows you 
 that fires as of a furnace have raged around and over 
 it, burning away all the projecting members of the 
 cornice of the main building and of the portico, and 
 eating their way into the very substance of the walls. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 465 
 
 Walls less substantial than those of the Pantheon, 
 some twenty feet thick, could hardly have stood under 
 the fiery deluge of three days' duration, in the time of 
 Nero, and its frequent repetition since, especially in 
 the clays of the Gothic invasions, and from that day 
 to this. The building looks as if it had suffered ; but, 
 at the same time, as if it could not be destroyed 
 by any power less than that of an earthquake. It is 
 interesting beyond any other building in Rome, for 
 this especially; that though older than the Colosseum, 
 and than almost any other building whose fragments 
 are scattered around, it is itself not a ruin, but a 
 structure almost untouched by time, which looks, in 
 the nineteenth century, very much as it did in the 
 first, both without and within. Emperors, consuls, 
 and scholars, and the crowds of Rome entered it 
 then, or passed it by in admiring delight ; our eyes of 
 to-day rest upon the same forms, and with the same 
 delight. True, the polished marbles that sheathed all 
 the exterior, have been stripped bare to the brick. 
 The plates of brass and of silver that once sheeted 
 the dome and the portico, have been wrenched from 
 their fastenings, and removed to adorn other fabrics ; 
 the thousand statues of brass which decorated the vast 
 'circumference of the cornice, the roof and beams of 
 brass from the portico, the brazen gates of entrance, 
 these also carried away by a Christian pope from this 
 nagan temple, now decorate St. Peter's in that absurd 
 
466 
 
 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 mountain of brass, the baldachino, and defend the 
 Castle of St. Angelo in their batteries of brazen can- 
 non. These mere ornaments to the general form of 
 the edifice, are, by the robberies of the emperors, 
 Goths, and popes, all gone ; and the morning and 
 evening sun of Rome no longer strikes upon a scene 
 of architectural pomp, which must, we might think, 
 have not only dazzled but awed into reverence the 
 barbarians who, for the first time, approached in order 
 to dismantle it. The noble swell of the dome, with 
 its circular openings at the top (its only light) ; with 
 its bold and beautiful graduated .panelling, stripped, 
 indeed, of its bronze ; the running entablature below ; 
 the niches for the statues of the twelve greater gods, 
 filled now instead with the forms of venerable saints, 
 and even the original mosaic pavement of the floor ; 
 all this remains to show us almost the only existing 
 Roman interior ; certainly the only one of such magni- 
 ficence as to have fastened upon it the admiration of 
 those early centuries, as it does ours to-day. Victor 
 Emmanuel, is buried here, as are also Raphael and 
 several other celebrated artists. 
 
 One cannot enter such*a structure with such a his- 
 tory attached to it, without emotion. He may think 
 as he may of the bloody and savage Roman people, of* 
 their lust of conquest, of their cruelty, which delighted 
 in the slaughter of animals, and yet more, of men ; 
 of their vices which shock the imagination ; yet he 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 467 
 
 cannot forget that, with much that was detestable in 
 Roman character, there was much that was refined, 
 and more that was magnificent ; that Christianity not- 
 withstanding, the reader of history can hardly point 
 to a period of more grateful, undisturbed repose, than 
 that which occurred between the accession of Trajan, 
 and the death of the second Antonine ; that if Rome 
 conquered the earth, one state after another, it then 
 united them, otherwise at ceaseless war with each 
 other, beneath one strong and stable government ; 
 and that such union is a source of security and peace, 
 on the whole, however it may be brought about, as 
 the disunion of the Italian States throughout the 
 Middle Ages abundantly testifies, and our disunion 
 wruild, were the golden band once broken that now holds 
 the States together ; we cannot forget that with all the 
 evil Rome originated and transmitted, it has left, 
 among other good, the rich legacy of her literature 
 aud her arts ; some expiation at least for her aggres- 
 sions, cruelties, vices, and crimes. Nowhere else 
 does melancholy, yet a pleasing melancholy, so 
 oppress the mind as in Rome. You feel there always 
 as if wandering among funeral monuments, — the 
 monuments of a fallen empire, and the greatest of 
 empires, — of an empire, however, whose most dur- 
 able monuments are not the few vestiges of structures, 
 magnificent as they are, and imperishable as they 
 seem, but much 'more in the literature which her 
 
468 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 genius has bequeathed ; and more still in the language, 
 wrought in the process of ages, into the substance of 
 every living tongue in Europe. Those are monuments 
 of her former greatness, evidences of her universal 
 sovereignty, greater than any other. Marble and 
 brass may perish with time ; but a flavor of the ancient 
 Roman speech, we may reasonably believe, will hang 
 about human language while any remnant of mankind 
 will survive to use it. 
 
 The traveller who, when invited to visit the Baths 
 of Caracalla, declined, on the ground that after hav- 
 ing seen so many ruins, he didn't care to visit an old 
 bath-hou>e, only displayed the ordinary lack of intel- 
 ligence in regard to the remains of these wonderful 
 structures. While gazing upon these, Mr. Wood 
 observed, " We Englishmen think we have accom- 
 plished something in our history, and I suppose you 
 Americans think you have done some deeds that will 
 live, in the first century of your nation's life ; but I 
 venture to assert there is no structure in England or 
 America that can compare with these buildings as they 
 stood in their original splendor and magnificence." 
 
 The richness of the marbles, vases, and statuary 
 seen in the museums of Rome, and throughout. Italy, 
 as having been found in these baths, naturally excites 
 a desire to visit these famous ruins. Many have very 
 erroneous ideas of Roman baths, deriving their im- 
 pressions, probably, from baths of modern times, and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 469 
 
 supposing the ancient ones to be like the modern, ex- 
 cept that the former were more luxurious and perfect 
 in fittings and appointments. The tourist will find 
 himself in the midst of arched passages, a long extent 
 of ruined walls, great halls with lofty, shattered ceil- 
 ings and elegant mosaic floors, with beautiful colored 
 designs wrought in the pavement, — a collection of 
 ruins which requires the walk of an English mile to 
 encompass them. 
 
 The buildings must have been in the form of a large 
 parallelogram ; exterior, -or outer buildings, of four 
 thousand two hundred feet, enclosing an inner, or 
 great court, which was cut up into various divisions. 
 In this great inner court was a grand building on 
 arches, which was seven hundred feet long by four 
 hundred and fifty broad. These great buildings now 
 present to the spectator only a series of roofless ruins, 
 with great fragments of arches and walls ; and you 
 may pass through what were once large and elegant 
 halls and apartments, well-defined by lines of mason- 
 ry, from which the decorations and rich marbles have 
 been stripped, as is plainly evident by fragments that 
 here and there remain, or a patch of what was once one 
 great sheet of mosaic pavement. The numerous halls 
 and apartments of this extensive ruin will indicate to 
 the visitor how complete must have been this grand 
 establishment for the comfort and luxurious enjoyment 
 of the people. First, for the purposes of bathing, 
 
470 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 there was every possible convenience that conld be de- 
 vised, — the disrobing room, the vapor bath, the tepid 
 bath, the hot bath, or cold bath, and the unctuarium, 
 where the bather could be perfumed and anointed with 
 oil. The remains of these, in various stages of ruin, 
 are traced out, and also the vaults beneath, by which 
 the water was heated by means of furnaces or stoves. 
 
 Then there was one large, open swimming bath, 
 open to the sky above, in which sixteen hundred 
 swimmers could paddle about in the water to- 
 gether. But it was not alone for bathing and swim- 
 ming that the people resorted here ; for there were, be- 
 sides the baths of different temperatures, gardens and 
 fountains, libraries, art-galleries, rooms for discussion, 
 theatres for athletic games, shady and pleasant walks, 
 an arena for running and wrestling, refreshment-shops, 
 perfume and fancy bazaars, and halls for poets to re- 
 cite their verses, lecture-rooms and theatres for com- 
 edy performances, with seats for spectators, — all of 
 which made the baths a place of resort, not only for 
 cleansing and refreshment of ablution, but a great place 
 of amusement, entertainment, and luxurious enjoy- 
 ment of the Eoman people. 
 
 Considerable portions of the arched roof are remain- 
 ing, and a few years ago a beautiful grove crowned its 
 summit, .beneath whose shade Shelley wrote his "Pro- 
 metheus Unbound." It reminds one of the hanging- 
 garden which the king of Babylon reared for the grati- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 471 
 
 fication of his Median bride, who pined for the breezy 
 slopes of her native land. In the preface, Shelley 
 says : — 
 
 " This poem was chiefly written upon the mountainous 
 ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. among the flowery glades 
 and thickets of odoriferous blossoming trees which are ex- 
 tended in ever- widening labyrinths upon its immense plat- 
 forms and dizzy arches suspended in the air. The bright, 
 blue sky of Rome, and the effect of the vigorous awakening 
 spring in that divinest climate, and the new life with which it 
 drenches the spirits even to intoxication, were the inspiration 
 of the drama." 
 
 Over the Appian Way is the scene of the first drive 
 the stranger takes out of Rome. It is a magnificent 
 promenade amongst ruinous tombs, the massive re- 
 mains of which extend for many miles over the Roman 
 Campagna. It is well known that no one was allowed 
 to be buried within the walls of the city, save the Ves- 
 tal Virgins. The powerful families of ancient Rome 
 loved to build monuments to their dead by the side of 
 the public road, probably to exhibit at once their affec- 
 tion for their relatives and their own power and afflu- 
 ence. Most of these monuments are now nothing but 
 heaps of ruins, upon which are placed the statues and 
 sculptures which have been found in the earth or 
 amongst the rubbish. The inscriptions found on these 
 tombs and monuments bear witness to the grief of the 
 living for the dead, but never to the hope of reunion. 
 
472 A SUMMEE JAUNT 
 
 On a great number of sarcophagi,' or the friezes of 
 tombs, may be seen the dead sitting or lying, as if they 
 were alive ; some seem to be praying. Sometimes a 
 white marble figure, beautifully draped, projects from 
 these heaps of ruins, but without head or hands. Some- 
 times a hand is stretched out, or a portion of a figure 
 rises from the tomb. It is a street through monu- 
 ments of the dead, across an immense churchyard, for 
 such the desolate Roman Campagna may be regarded. 
 
 To the left, it is scattered with the ruins of colossal 
 aqueducts, which, during the time of the emperors, 
 conveyed lakes and rivers to Rome, and which still, 
 ruinous and destroyed, delight the eye by the beauti- 
 ful proportions of their arcades. 
 
 One of the most imposing monuments on this road 
 is the Tomb of Cecilia Mete 11a, the wife of Crassus, a 
 wealthy Roman tax-gatherer. It is a round tower, 
 seventy feet in diameter. On its broad summit rise 
 the battlements of a mediaeval fortress, out of the 
 midst of which grow trees, bushes, and thick festoons 
 of ivy. This tomb of a woman has become the dun- 
 geon-keep of a castle (the battlements were added in 
 the thirteenth century), and all the care that Cecilia 
 Metella's husband could bestow to secure endless 
 peace for her beloved relics only sufficed to make that 
 handful of precious ashes the nucleus of battles long 
 ages after her death. 
 
 " There is a stern round tower of other days, 
 Firm as a fortress, with its fence of stone ; 
 What was this tower of strength ? Within its cave 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 473 
 
 What treasure lay so locked ? A woman's grave. 
 
 Thus much alone we know, — Metella died 
 
 The wealthiest Roman's wife : Behold his love, or pride." 
 
 Between the tomb of Cecilia Metella and the ruins 
 of Roma Vecchia, a distance of about two miles and a 
 half, Sir William Gell noted fifty-one tombs on the 
 right, and forty-two on the left of the road. From 
 this fact we may learn how numerous these structures 
 must have been along the Appian Way in the flourish- 
 ing periods of Rome. Near Roma Vecchia is a large 
 castellated farm-house, built entirely from the plunder 
 of ancient tombs. Manifold are the uses of the dead 
 to the living. Mummies are split up to boil the tea- 
 kettle of an American pedestrian, and a Roman peas- 
 ant sleeps in the tomb of the Metelli. 
 
 It was a fact full of interest, to be told soon after we 
 started out, that here stood the Porta Capena, where 
 the survivor of the Ho rati i met his sister on his return 
 from the memorable combat, and slew her with a blow 
 of his sword on seeing her express grief for one of 
 the Curiatii who had fallen beneath his victorious blade ; 
 and it was at this gate that Cicero was received by the 
 Roman people and Senate on his return from banish- 
 ment, b. c. 57. This world-famous road, over which 
 the thundering legions of Rome have, many a time, 
 tramped to victorious battle, was built by the Censor, 
 Appius Claudius the Blind, three hundred years before 
 the birth of our Saviour. But the thought that is 
 
474 
 
 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 uppermost in the mind of the Christian visitor on this 
 road is the fact that it was trodden by the footsteps of 
 the Apostle Paul, while on his way, a prisoner, to be 
 tried at Borne : — 
 
 "And so we went toward Rome. And from thence, when 
 the brethren heard of us, they came to meet us as far as 
 Appii Forum, and the Three Taverns ; whom when Paul saw, 
 he thanked God, and took courage. And when we came to 
 Rome, the centurion delivered the prisoners to the captain of 
 the guard : but Paul was suffered to dwell by himself with a 
 soldier that kept him."— Acts 28 : 14-16. 
 
 It is well to remember that, amidst the dim tradi- 
 tions of later times, one figure at least stands out 
 clear, distinct and undoubted, and this figure is the 
 Apostle Paul. Whatever we 'may think concerning 
 any other apostle or apostolic man in connection 
 with Rome, he, beyond a shadow of a doubt, appears 
 in the New Testament as her great teacher. No criti- 
 cism or skepticism of modern times has ever ques- 
 tioned the perfect authenticity of that last chapter of 
 the Acts, which gives the account of his journey, stage 
 by stage, till he set foot within the walls of the city. 
 However much we may be compelled to distrust any 
 particular traditions concerning special localities of his 
 life and death, we cannot doubt for a moment that his 
 eye rested on the same general view of sky and plain 
 and mountain ; that his feet trod the pavement of the 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 475 
 
 same Appian Way ; that his path lay through the same 
 long avenue of ancient tombs on which we now look 
 and wonder; that he entered (and there we have our 
 last authentic glimpse of his progress) through the 
 Arch of Drusus, and then is lost to our view in the 
 great Babylon of Rome. 
 
 We must not omit to speak of the Mamertiiie Prison, 
 believed to be the dungeon in which Paul and Peter 
 were imprisoned while at Rome. This is the most 
 ancient, and, at the same time, the best- verified 
 edifice belonging to ancient Rome. It was here 
 that Jugurtha, after being dragged in chains behind 
 the triumphal chariot of Caius Marius, was shut 
 up and starved to death. The prison now, or upper 
 part of it, is made into a little church or oratory, 
 with religious emblems' and votive offerings hung 
 about. In ancient times there was no staircase, but 
 prisoners were let down through a trap-door, or hole 
 in the roof. Now, however, a monk, for a gratuity of 
 course, shows you down a flight of stone steps into the 
 dungeon described by Livy and Sallust. 
 
 Its damp, cold, -pitiless stones have been witness to 
 the most terrible scenes of torture and suffering, for 
 the visitor here stands in the enclosure which, built 
 four or five centuries before the Christian era, was the 
 prison where, b. c. 449, Appius Claudius, the .o inpo 
 -t***- who endeavored to obtain, possession of the 
 daughter of Virginius, slew himself to escape the ven- 
 
476 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 geance.of the people ; and here was the brave Manlius 
 Capitolinus immured, despite his services to his coun- 
 trymen. Here, as the triumphs turned aside after 
 their grand march through the city and the Forum, 
 were captive kings and chiefs plunged, after having 
 been exhibited as a spectacle to the populace. The 
 accomplices of Catiline were strangled in this gloomy 
 vault by order of Cicero, who came forth himself bear- 
 ing the news of their death to the people in the Forum, 
 exclaiming, in answer to their clamorous inquiries, 
 " Vixerunt" (they have ceased to live). 
 
 A cruel cavern it is indeed, for within it Julius 
 Ciesar basely thrust his gallant enemy, Vercingetorix, 
 King of the Gauls, who surrendered himself volun- 
 tarily to save his people ; and, after keeping him six 
 years captive, murdered him here. Here Sejanus, the 
 friend and minister of Tiberius, disgraced too late, 
 was executed for the murder of Drusus, son of the 
 emperor, and for an intrigue with his daughter-in-law, 
 Livilla. Here also, Simon Bar Gionas, the last brave 
 defender of Jerusalem, after being dragged and 
 scourged at the chariot-wheels of Titus, in his 
 triumphal entry into Rome, yielded up his life upon 
 the floor that for twenty-three centuries has been 
 soaked with the blood of chieftains, senators, kings, 
 and emperors. 
 
 Yet it is not these events that render it so interest- 
 ing a spot to the Christian visitor, for it was here that 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 477 
 
 Peter and Paul are said to have been confined for nine 
 months, during their imprisonment in Rome ; and we 
 confess, as the monk pointed out what he averred to 
 be the very pillar to which these apostles were chained 
 during their captivity, that although we did not rever- 
 ently kiss it, as did a Roman Catholic at our side, we 
 could not leave without laying our hands upon the 
 spot upon which might perhaps have rested the hands 
 of those who had pressed the blessed palm of Christ 
 our Saviour. The little fountain or well in the floor, 
 the Romish Church must, of course, ascribe to a 
 miraculous origin ; they say it sprang up at the bid- 
 cling of the two apostles, for them to -baptize their 
 jailers, whom they had converted. As we came up 
 the staircase, our guide also called attention to a 
 depression, or indentation in the stone, which is said 
 to have been the impression made by the head of St. 
 Peter, who was rudely thrust against it by his jailer. 
 It is thus the Church of Rome, by the demand for 
 such credulity as this, and appeals to the most igno- 
 rant, really tends to shake historical belief in other 
 ruins, relics, or localities, that have a certain amount 
 of authenticity. 
 
 Under the Church of Santa Maria, in Via Lata, we 
 were shown what is generally believed to be Paul's 
 "own hired house," where he "dwelt two whole years." 
 Descending by a staircase, we enter a series of three 
 rooms, grievously transformed by restorations, and 
 
478 A SUMMER JAUNI 
 
 encumbered by modern altars, but yet showing suffi- 
 cient evidence of their original construction. In these 
 rooms, or in rooms of the house of which these form 
 the ground floor, St. Paul taught and ministered. 
 Here he wrote his Epistles to the Ephesians, Philip- 
 pians, Colossians, Hebrews, Philemon, and the 
 Second Epistle to Timothy. Here were gathered 
 around him Onesiphorus of Ephesus, Epaphras of 
 Colosse, Timothy, Hermas, Aristarchus, Marcus, De- 
 mas, Luke the Physician, and Onesimus, "whom I 
 have begotton in my bonds." It is said that in this 
 house St. Luke wrote the Acts of the Apostles, and 
 painted a portrait of the Virgin Mary. 
 
 The whole Church of Christ has abundant reason 
 to bless God for the dispensation which, during the 
 most matured period of St. Paul's Christian life, de- 
 tained him a close prisoner in the imperial city. Had 
 he, to the end of his course, been at large, occupied 
 as he had long been, "in labors most abundant," he 
 would, humanly speaking, never have found time to 
 pen those epistles which are among the most blessed 
 portions of the Church's inheritance. 
 
 The footsteps of the Apostles Peter and Paul are 
 strangely linked with the history and traditions of 
 Rome. Churches are built to their memory, statues 
 crown columns and cathedrals, and magnificent basili- 
 cas stand upon the spots of their martyrdom and 
 burial. The Church of the Three Fountains was built 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 479 
 
 upon the spot where St. Paul was beheaded, the 
 superstitious monks telling us the fountains sprang up 
 wherever the severed head struck the ground during 
 three bounds which it made after decapitation. The 
 interior of the Basilica of St. Paul beyond the walls, 
 built on the spot where St. Paul was buried, surpasses 
 in grandeur any church in Home. It is a new church, 
 and not yet completed, the old one having been mostly 
 destroyed by fire in 1823. On this spot, Anacletus, 
 the third Bishop of Rome, .78-91, built an oratory, 
 in place of which Constantine the Great founded a 
 Church in the year 324, at the prayer of St. Sylves- 
 ter, at the same time when the Church in honor of St. 
 Peter was founded upon the Vatican, the site of his 
 grave. Beneath the altar repose half of the bodies 
 of Peter and Paul ; the other half of their bodies lie 
 in St. Peter's. The heads of those apostles are 
 shown in the Basilica of St. John Lateran. Following 
 the footsteps of the great apostles, much of our wan- 
 derings in Rome seemed like travelling in the Holy 
 Land. 
 
 Near this Church of St. John Lateran is the build- 
 ing containing the "Santa Scala," or Holy Staircase, 
 of twenty-eight steps of marble, believed, by devout 
 Catholics, to be those ascended by our Saviour, on his 
 way to the judgment hail in Pilate's house. They 
 are said to have been brought from Jerusalem by St. 
 Helena, the mother of Constantine, a tradition which 
 
480 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 would seem to receive support from the fact that they 
 arc formed of the veined white Tyrian marble. If 
 you would ascend these stairs, you must do it upon 
 your knees — no one is permitted to Avalk up. These 
 steps are covered with wood, with the exception of 
 small apertures, rimmed with brass, through which a 
 spot of the step may be touched by the lips. Up 
 these stairs, one by one, upon the knees, the worship- 
 per ascends, kissing each step through the aperture 
 as he comes upon it, and saying a prayer over it 
 before leaving it for the next. 
 
 About threo-'quartcrs of an hour is consumed in 
 getting to the top in the prescribed manner, and we 
 noticed that the wood covering was well worn by the 
 knees of the worshippers, and the brass rims of the 
 apertures had been polished to a glittering brightness 
 by the frequent contact of lips. These are the stairs 
 up which Martin Luther was ascending in the usual 
 manner, painfully upon his knees, when, half way, he 
 suddenly seemed to hear the whisper of a divine voice 
 say, " The just shall live by faith," and he rose to his 
 feet, descended, and left the place. 
 
 Among the anticipated pleasures of the art-student 
 at Rome, stands out first and foremost, a visit to the 
 halls of the unrivalled Vatican. It stretches away on 
 the north side of St. Peter's, with its twenty courts, 
 containing, it is said, eleven thousand chapels, saloons, 
 and chambers ; and with its gardens and St. Peter's, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 481 
 
 occupying nearly thirty acres of ground. It is the 
 largest palace in the world, and additions have been 
 made to it from time to time for the last five hundred 
 years. The popes have resided here since their 
 return from Avignon, surrounded by the richest treas- 
 ures of art the world has ever possessed. Besides 
 the papal establishment, the Vatican contains great 
 galleries, libraries, and museums. Its collection of 
 sculpture is the largest in the world, containing many 
 of the great masterpieces familiar to nearly all by casts, 
 photographs, and engravings. It also comprises the 
 highest triumphs of painting, in the frescoes of 
 Kaphael and Michael Angelo. He who has seen the 
 Vatican, has seen the utmost point reached by the 
 human mind and hand in these two arts. The world 
 is no more likely to witness anything beyond what is 
 here visible, than to have a nobler epic than the Iliad, 
 or a greater dramatist than Shakespeare. 
 
 •Foremost among them, and placed by general con- 
 sent at the head of all oil paintings in the world, is 
 the Transfiguration, by Kaphael. It was the last 
 work of the artist, and not entirely completed at his 
 death. All will be slow to criticise such a picture, 
 not only in deference to the consenting judgments of 
 more than three hundred years, but on account of 
 the touching interest thrown over it from the fact 
 that these were the last lines traced by that immortal 
 hand. It hung over his death-bed as he lay in state, 
 
482 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and was carried in his funeral procession. Many will 
 recall the graceful lines of Rogers, where he has com- 
 memorated this incident in his " Italy " : — 
 
 " And when all beheld 
 Him wnere he lay, how changed from yesterday — 
 Him in that hour cut off, and at his head 
 His last great work ; when, entering in they look, 
 Now on the dead, then on that masterpiece — 
 Now on his face, lifeless and colorless, 
 Then on those forms divine that lived and breathed 
 And would live on for ages — all were moved, 
 And sighs burst forth and loudest lamentations." 
 
 Opposite the Transfiguration, hangs the Communion 
 of St. Jerome, by Domenichino ; a picture which is 
 sometimes ranked as the next in merit to the Trans- 
 figuration, of all the pictures in the world. How- 
 ever, all such judgments in ranking paintings as first, 
 second, and third is senseless, as no two persons will 
 agree in their estimates, and there is no common stand- 
 ard to appeal to for a decision between conflicting 
 judgments. The aged saint, — feeble, emaciated, 
 dying, — is borne in the arms of his disciples, to the 
 chapel of his monastery, and placed within the porch. 
 A young priest sustains him ; St. Paula, kneeling, 
 kisses one of his thin, bony hands ; the lion droops 
 his head with an expression of grief; the eyes and 
 attention of all are on the dying saint, while four 
 angels, hovering above, look down upon the scene. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 483 
 
 In the same room hangs another work by Eaphael, 
 his famous Madonna de Foligno, which is another 
 illustration of his power of blending things celestial 
 and things terrestial in such a way as to disarm criti- 
 cism by the reconciling power of genius. 
 
 From the paintings and frescos of Raphael, we pass 
 to the Sistine Chapel, the ceiling of which, and the 
 great western end of the ehurCh, are the work of 
 Michael Angclo. On the end wall is the picture of 
 the Last Judgment ; on the ceiling, the prophets and 
 sibyls. Let no one go to Rome in the hope of either 
 seeing or enjoying the world-renowned picture of the 
 Last Judgment. It is now scarcely visible, — what 
 with damp, neglect, the smoke of wax candles, and 
 time. Other reasons will not now allow it to be 
 enjoyed, could it be seen ever so well. The awful 
 subject of the picture is treated in a manner too gross 
 and material, and, we must say, with too much levity 
 for the mind of the present generation. One is ready 
 to think Michael Angelo intended it as a satire on the 
 vulgar doctrines of the church. Certainly the human 
 heart, under the influences of Christian truth so long, 
 has become too much softened to endure a treatment 
 of a subject, which, in the sixteenth century, one 
 must suppose, occasioned to the Christians of those 
 days the finest - delight, if we may judge from the 
 frequency with which it was treated in all parts .of 
 Italy. Nothing, apparently, gave them more heartfelt 
 
484 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 pleasure than witnessing on the walls of churches, 
 or the domes of cathedrals, the torments of the 
 damned, — God the Father sitting and with com- 
 placency surveying the scene ; Christ the active agent, 
 by whom the millions of mankind are plunged into 
 the fiery billows of endless woe. That is precisely 
 the subject, and the manner of treating it in the 
 Sistinc Chapel. Michael Angelo made no advance 
 over the ideas of his age. Great as he was, he was 
 not great enough for that. Or if he had, he would 
 doubtless have been prevented from giving them 
 expression by the prevailing superstitions of his age. 
 Any attempt on his part to show that the sufferings of 
 futurity were of a moral, not physical nature, might 
 have proved him a better theologian and a wiser man, 
 but might, at the same time, have confined him for the 
 rest of his days to the dungeons of the Inquisition. 
 
 But if one is to be warned against expectations of 
 pleasure from seeing the picture of the Last Judg- 
 ment, he may be assured that he would be well repaid 
 if he journeyed hence to Rome, with the single pur- 
 pose of seeing the ceiling of the Sistine ; saw that, 
 studied it thoroughly, and returned, having seen noth- 
 ing else. If one understands enough of the art of 
 painting to appreciate its difficulties, the genius it 
 requires, and the obstacles to be encountered and 
 overcome, especially painting in fresco, and especially, 
 still again, painting upon a ceiling, — then casts his 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 485 
 
 eye to the ceiling of that chapel, and is told that one 
 mind conceived and one hand executed it, with all the 
 miracles of art that astonish you, in the short space of 
 two years, he would stoutly deny its possibility ; or 
 else assert that divine creatures descended, and stood 
 at his side, inspired his mind, and guided his pencil. 
 
 This ceiling is covered with the figures of the 
 prophets and the sibyls, of the grandest form, designed 
 and painted with a freedom of hand, and a sublimity 
 of conception, to which there is nothing corresponding 
 in the whole history of art. Any one of those forms, 
 done by an artist in the maturity of his powers, and 
 with years at his command, would have raised him at 
 once to celebrity. 
 
 Our Allston was a man of great genius ; in one 
 department of art almost without a rival. Yet he left 
 half finished a single picture on which he had been 
 employed many years, — conquered by the multiplied 
 difficulties of the task. But the mind that painted 
 the ceiling of the Sistine, was the same that raised 
 the dome of St. Peter's ; and the same that struck out 
 of the marble the marvellous statues of Night and 
 Day, Morning and Evening, Julius the Second, Moses, 
 David, — an accumulation of power in a single mind, 
 to which a parallel can scarcely be found in any age. 
 None have doubted that he was the greatest man 
 of his age ; or as one who had exercised the three first- 
 named arts, the greatest, probably, that ever lived. 
 
486 A SUMMEK JAUOT 
 
 But it has been doubted and disputed in which of 
 the three he was greatest. After contemplating at 
 leisure the ceiling of the Sistine, and calling to mind 
 the other works of Michael Angelo, for ourself, we 
 could not doubt. We would rather have designed 
 and painted that ceiling, as an intellectual achieve- 
 ment, than have done any other work in the same 
 department of art, the fame of which has descended 
 to our time. 
 
 It is a happy circumstance, that in respect to one of 
 the most perfect pieces of statuary in the world, the 
 famous Apollo Belvidere, it was, when first disinterred 
 from the ruins, found almost perfect; the right fore- 
 arm, the left hand, and a portion of the right foot 
 were alone necessary to be added. This was done by 
 a disciple of Michael Angelo. As it now stands, in a 
 beautiful cabinet called the Belvidere, it is certainly 
 worthy of all the homage it has ever received, and 
 still receives, from every lover of art, from whatever 
 quarter of the world he may come. Still it rouses 
 little feeling, it stirs little enthusiasm. You look at 
 it, admire, praise, and depart. There is no sentiment 
 in the form to call forth sentiment in the beholder, 
 beyond the admiration of mere animal beauty, and 
 that can hardly move or fire the mind. When in the 
 Museum of the Capitol, you look at the form of the 
 Dying Gladiator ; though the one is a god and the 
 other a slave, you can hardly withdraw your eyes from 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 487 
 
 what so deeply interests you. As works of art, one 
 perhaps is not less perfect than the other. The dif- 
 ference in the attractiveness and power of the one 
 over the other must be explained by the existence in 
 the one of the tragic element, which reigns paramount 
 over every other. But in the Apollo there is not only 
 nothing that yields a tragic interest ; there is too little 
 to yield anything at all. From the expression of the 
 eyes, looking upward, and the position of the remain-' 
 ing portions of the arms when found, it has been gen- 
 erally supposed he was watching an arrow which had 
 just left his bow. It seems, from a statuette recently 
 discovered, similar in all points, and evidently a copy 
 of the Apollo Belvidere, that the original did not hold 
 the bow in his hand, but the aegis or shield of Jupiter, 
 made for him by Vulcan, bearing upon its front the 
 head of Medusa, and used for putting to flight a fatal 
 enemy. The aegis, bearing Medusa's head, was the 
 symbol of storm and tempest, and was lent to Apollo, 
 according to Homer's Iliad, and with it he drove back 
 the hosts of the Achaians. Hence it is decided by some 
 authorities that the extended left arm (restored) bore 
 the terrifying shield, and that by the same reason the left 
 hand, also a restoration, is not in its correct position. 
 
 But how inferior is this statue to the Venus, either 
 of Florence or the Capitol. You may say that in 
 both these cases there is only animal beauty to excite 
 an interest; and it is true. And the only difference 
 
488 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 is, that in one it is the beauty of man, in the other 
 of a woman. But just as in real life, in ancient and 
 in modern times, as female beauty is that for which 
 the world has a thousand times gone mad, while it has 
 never done so for the beauty of a man ; so in these stat- 
 ues, the Apollo receives few worshippers, is compara- 
 tively neglected, while for the Venus, crowds gather 
 around her, and few leave her for the last time without 
 a sensible pang. 
 
 Not far from the Apollo stands the Laocoon, discov- 
 ered on the Esquiline, among the ruins of the Palace 
 of Titus, and placed in the chambers of the Vatican 
 by Leo XII. 
 
 Notwithstanding the size and complicated character 
 of this wonderful group, each of the three figures in 
 the most violent action, and the folds of the serpent 
 winding around all the limbs of both father and sons 
 in the most intricate manner, it has sustained but 
 the most trifling injury from time ; an escape almost 
 miraculous, when one considers the masses of build- 
 ing which must have fallen upon it, but beneath which 
 it then lay securely buried. It is a subject for sculp- 
 ture which can possess no attraction except for the 
 difficulties, almost impossible, by which its execution 
 was attended, and by which they have been overcome 
 with a genius second certainly to that of no other 
 whose fame has descended to our time. Such truth 
 pervades it as if living persons were dying before our 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 489 
 
 eyes, within the crushing folds of the hideous mon- 
 ster. The tragedy is too real, too loathsome for 
 enjoyment. You leave it in the deepest admiration of 
 the powers of the human mind, but you never wish to 
 see it again, and do not believe it can ever cease to 
 visit and torment your dreams. 
 
 But it is impossible to describe or even name all 
 the works of sculpture which crowd the magnifi- 
 cent halls of the Vatican. There are seventeen 
 hundred and sixty separate works of the ancient 
 Greeks and Romans described in the catalogues and 
 standing on the floors, all of which are possessed of 
 merit enough to make them worthy of the attentive 
 examination of the student of art. 
 
 The Catacombs are places of melancholy interest 
 which all tourists visit. "We visited those under the 
 Church of St. Sebastian. These subterranean refuses 
 of the early Christians are indeed very melancholy, 
 dismal, and awful places ; and yet there is a remark- 
 able interest clinging to them as the refuge and resi- 
 dence of the early Christians in times of persecu- 
 tion. W r e were conducted by a dirty Franciscan 
 friar, looking, in the coarse brown dress of his order, 
 as though he had burrowed for a lifetime in those low, 
 dark passages. Each of us bore a torch, yet never 
 ventured to diverge from the way taken by our guide, 
 or to fall more than a few feet behind him. He led 
 us through a bewildering labyrinth, vault after vault, 
 
490 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 passage opening on passage, chill chambers of death, 
 interminable halls of night, where our torches seemed 
 to struggle with the heavy air, and to cast faint and 
 fearful gleams into the profound depths of that ancient 
 darkness. He showed chapels and rude shrines, and 
 everywhere sepulchres, hollowed from the soft rock. 
 Since the christianization of Eomc, most of the bones 
 of the martyrs who perished here have been removed 
 to less humble tombs in the churches. Many are kept 
 in costly cabinets and shrines, as precious and holy 
 relics. 
 
 It was formerly supposed that there was direct com- 
 munication between all the different Catacombs of 
 Eomc ; that the names, in fact, were merely indications 
 of the different localities in one bewildering labyrinth 
 of galleries ; but it is now found that they are sepa- 
 rate and distinct. Stripped of their contents during 
 past ages, from the mouldering bones of the dead to 
 every scrap of marble by which the bodies were 
 enclosed in their long, horizontal, shelf-like resting- 
 places, the Catacombs revealed nothing but an inter- 
 minable series of weird, tunuel-like galleries ; but 
 within the last twenty years a fresh interest has sprung 
 up in these last resting-places of the early Christians. 
 New explorations have been made, and through the 
 labor and erudition of the celebrated Christian archae- 
 ologist, Giovanni Battista De Eossi, we can now see 
 portions of the Catacombs, sufficiently uninjured to 
 
KOMAN TEMPLE OF HERCULES, CALLED THE TEMPLE OF THE SYBIL. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 491 
 
 enable every one to form an idea of what they were 
 before they became the prey of the curiosity-seeker 
 and th'c relic-monger. The Catacomb of St. Calixtus 
 is especially interesting, from the discovery recently 
 made of a chamber or crypt wherein a number of the 
 early Popes were buried. On the walls are the remains 
 of fresco paintings, and enclosing four of the recesses 
 are — though in a shattered condition — the marble 
 slabs bearing the names in Greek of four martyred 
 Popes, entitled simply, Bishop and martyr ; St. Ante- 
 ros, 236 ; St. Fabianus, 236-51 ; St. Lucius, 253-55 ; 
 and St. Eutychianus. There is reason for believing 
 that the other niches contained the bodies of St. 
 Urbanus, 224-31, and of St. Sixtus II., martyred in 
 258. The crypt has also been discovered in which St. 
 Cecilia was buried, and whence her remains were re^ 
 moved by Paschal I., in 820, to the church dedicated 
 to her in Trastevere. Oh its walls are several paint- 
 ings : a Roman lady richly attired, supposed to be St. 
 Cecilia ; a largo head of our Saviour, with the nimbus 
 arranged like a Greek cross ; and figures of St. Urban 
 and three saints, — Polycamus, Sebastianus, and 
 Curinus. 
 
 Early in our sojourn in Rome it occurred to many 
 of us that we ought to pay our respects to His Holiness 
 the Pope. There is a superfluity of red tape and 
 court etiquette to be observed before w T e can enter his 
 august presence. Signor Barattoni drew up a peti- 
 
492 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 tion to the Holy Father to grant the party an audi- 
 ence. This petition was signed by the whole party, 
 and was written in Italian, as follows : — 
 
 Santita : Noi qui sottoscritti Americani dei Stati Uniti, 
 venuti in questa stagione a visitare per la prima volta 
 1'Alma Citta' di Roma, nonostante che non possiamo chia- 
 marci figliuoli della Santita vostra pure nutriamo la sper- 
 anza che nella bonta* del vostro magnanimo cuore vorrete 
 concederce l'alto onore d'ossequiarvi prima della nostra 
 obligata partenza la quale avra' luogo nella sera de Giovedi 
 prossimo. Speranzosi di tal previlegio ci firmiamo, Della 
 Santita' Vostra Umitissimi. 
 
 Translated into English it would read, — 
 
 Holy Father : We, the undersigned, Americans of the 
 United States, have come at this season to visit for the first 
 time, the historical city of Rome ; and, although we cannot 
 call ourselves children of Your Holiness, we cherish the 
 hope that in the goodness of your magnanimous heart you 
 will grant us the high honor to allow us to present to you 
 our respects before our forced departure, which will take 
 place on the evening of Thursday next. Hoping that such 
 privilege will be granted, we subscribe ourselves of Your 
 Holiness the most humble petitioners. 
 
 On Monday the conductor had the petition for- 
 warded directly to the Pope, through influential friends 
 of his, and Monday evening the welcome intelligence 
 was received that His Holiness would grant us an 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 493 
 
 audience on Tuesday at 12.30 p. m. Then we were 
 informed as to costumes and court customs. The 
 ladies were to wear black dresses and white kids, with 
 "black veils on their heads ; the gentlemen, full-dress 
 suits, white ties and kids — gloves to be taken off 
 before our presentation to the Pope. Those who were 
 not supplied with court suits must buy them or hire 
 them (as many did) at a few dollars' expense. 
 
 Our guide had forgotten to inform us of another little 
 bit of the papal court etiquette, till but a short time 
 before the hour named for the reception ; viz. , that we 
 must kneel to the Pope when he entered the room, and 
 kneel in turn and kiss his hand when he came to us in- 
 dividually and offered it. This announcement fell like 
 a bomb-shell in the party ; for while there was great 
 anxiety, or curiosity, to see the great head of the 
 Romish Church, there was a lively discussion, espe- 
 cially among the numerous ministers of the party, 
 about the propriety and principle of getting down on 
 their knees to the Pope of Rome. In vain did our 
 conductor assure them it was but a form of the court, 
 and of no significance in regard to our particular 
 views of theology and religion. "How can we," said 
 they, "stand up before our people at home, after hav- 
 ing bowed the knee to this modern Baal?" And so, 
 quite a number, after having hired their court cos- 
 tume, at considerable expense, declined, for consis- 
 tency and conscience' sake, to use it for a papal visit. 
 
494 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 We could not look upon it as did some of our good 
 friends ; nevertheless, we respected their conscience. 
 Our idea was,. when we go to court, be it Roman or 
 any other, we ought to conform to the rules of 
 that court ; or, in other words, " when you are with 
 the Romans do as the Romans do " — so far as custom 
 and court etiquette are concerned. 
 
 They tell a story, that once, when a number of per- 
 sons were given an audience by Pius IX., some failed 
 to kneel when he entered the room, but remained 
 standing. Observing this, the Pope remarked, iron- 
 ically, "Ah, I see we have a new addition to the stat- 
 ues of the Vatican Museum." 
 
 Therefore, the sensible advice was given that all 
 those who were not prepared to conform to the rules 
 of etiquette of the court of the Vatican should refrain 
 from going ; and when those determined to go en- 
 tered the carriages at the hotel door, it was found that 
 iIk^v numbered just fifty, including Signor Barattoni. 
 We drove down the Via Condotti, over the ancient 
 bridge of St. Angelo, and on through the Piazza in 
 front of St. Peter's, around the church, into an inner 
 court of the Vatican. Alighting from our carriages, 
 we entered the immense building, and were conducted 
 up so many flights of marble stairs that it makes our 
 back ache even to remember them. At last we en- 
 tered a long, narrow hall, richly frescoed and adorned, 
 where fifty red chairs were ranged on either side, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 495 
 
 with a sort of raised dais on one end, on which was 
 a bast of some dead Pope upon a costly pedestal, 
 with a sort of throne-like chair in front of it. Here 
 we sat down to wait, with fast-beating hearts, the 
 entrance of the great head of the Catholic Church, 
 who we expected would shortly honor us with his pres- 
 ence. It was just 12.20 when we arrived — ten 
 minutes ahead of the appointed time. We waited 
 ten minutes, and we waited fifty-five other minutes, 
 and still no Pope came. To be sure, there was a 
 finely carved ceiling in blue and gold, and there were 
 large pictures on the walls to look at, and the hand- 
 some throne-chair; but we wanted to see the Pope*. 
 At 1.25 we were requested to leave the Throne-Eoom, 
 and, passing on through two others, were ushered 
 into a square apartment called the Poom of the Tap- 
 estries, from the elegant specimens of this work hung 
 upon the walls on three sides. Fifteen minutes later 
 the Holy Father appeared. We all knelt, but he 
 motioned us to rise. If we had felt any trepidation 
 before, we were put entirely at our ease the moment 
 we saw the pleasant face of Leo XIII. , and felt the 
 kindly influence of his presence. How did the Pope 
 look? Well, he is a benign old man, with a fair, 
 serene, gentle face, and certainly not unpleasing. He 
 had on a white silk skull-cap, and was dressed like a 
 venerable baby, all in white. He wore a long robe, 
 which came down to his feet, made of the softest and 
 
496 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 most beautiful white woollen stuff which you can 
 imagine. There was a short cape about his shoulders, 
 trimmed with white silk, and a sash of white watered 
 silk ribbon confining the robe at the waist, and white 
 kid slippers. Around his neck was a gold chain, 
 attached to which was a cross, and his ring, on this 
 occasion, was a cameo, bearing the image of the 
 Virgin. He appeared quite pleased to see so many 
 Americans in one party, and commencing at the left 
 of our semi-circle he offered his hand to each one and 
 passed slowly around the room, stopping with every 
 three or four to talk a moment or two, Signor 
 Barattoni acting as interpreter, the conversation be- 
 tween them being in Italian. He spent some twenty 
 minutes with us, and, when about to leave the room, 
 stopped near the door and expressed good wishes for 
 the party through the remainder of the tour, and 
 throughout their lives ; and said he hoped they would 
 remember with pleasure, Italy, Rome, and their visit 
 to the Vatican. Then while we knelt he blessed us 
 and our families, and our audience was at an end. 
 
 Rome is the great winter watering-place of the 
 world. The Romans still live on strangers, as they 
 did in the flourishing days of the empire, when the 
 Roman legions were sent out to plunder and returned 
 laden with spoils ; when the emperors were purvey- 
 ors for the people, who fared sumptuously, passed 
 their days in the baths and the amphitheatres, and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 497 
 
 kept their slaves at work. Probably the most impor- 
 tant interests in Rome to-day are those which cater to 
 the luxurious demands of travelling foreigners. In 
 this connection one naturally thinks first of the church. 
 For centuries this immense establishment has drawn a 
 princely revenue from every country in Christendom. 
 Many of the prominent families still living here, and 
 many more which have disappeared, were enriched out 
 of the contributions of the faithful of other lands, 
 collected by the church. From the thirteenth to the 
 sixteenth century the Popes practised the most extrav- 
 agant nepotism, and their relatives piled up vast 
 estates. They built palaces and villas, established 
 galleries of painting and sculpture, kept crowds of 
 lackeys and retainers, and, becoming more and more 
 licentious and extravagant, " made Rome howl," be- 
 cause of their bad behavior. 
 
 But that sort of thing has passed away. The Popes 
 have been wiser stewards in these latter days. The 
 late incumbent, who was so long in office, was gen- 
 erally esteemed a man of true piety. 
 
 But we were saying that Rome still lives on strang- 
 ers. If one goes to the Pincio any pleasant afternoon, 
 and sees the throng of elegant establishments which 
 crowd that famous resort, circling about in endless 
 procession over the handsome avenue that commands 
 a superb view of the city, a little sagacity will show 
 him that a great majority of these well-dressed pleas- 
 
498 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ure-seekers are aliens. They swarm here from Eng- 
 land, France, Germany, and America, like pilgrims to 
 a popular shrine. In the galleries and museums they 
 are in the majority. They sustain the great hotels, 
 the banking-houses, the shops, and the cabs. They 
 divide up the ruins into days of pleasuring. The 
 Romans are bright enough to know where their daily 
 bread comes from. Whether they are artists, mechan- 
 ics, or beggars, they are polite — that comes natural 
 to them — and as for honest and fair dealing, well, 
 they take what they can get and get as much as they 
 can. 
 
 It is very interesting to traverse the historical city 
 of Rome with an archaeologist, and learn by what 
 process the patient clelver in the dust and debris of 
 the past brings to the modern mind so much accurate 
 information upon the life and history of remote cen- 
 turies. We cannot be too thankful for the patient 
 labors of these men who are opening up churches and 
 temples, and cities buried by volcanoes and earthquakes, 
 and others covered by the dust and decay of countless 
 centuries. Much history we find written with a three- 
 fold instrument : the sculptor's marble, the engraver's 
 brass, and the historian's pen. In the Roman Forum are 
 two marble balustrades, sculptured on both sides. On 
 the inner sides of each are the animals — a pig, a s*heep, 
 and a bull — offered in the sacrifice of expiation, 
 called the Suovetaurilia. On the outer side, towards 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 499 
 
 the Capitol, is an alto-relief commemorating the great 
 act of charity by Trajan, in the establishment of a 
 number of orphan asylums throughout the Roman 
 dominions; and on the side towards the Palatine, the 
 burning of the public records of the arrears of taxes. 
 It was customary to stamp on coins any marked 
 achievement in the year they were coined, with the 
 elate, name, and likeness of the emperor on the other 
 side. Thus these coins and marbles become pictorial 
 histories of each emperor's reign, and go to confirm 
 the historian's record. 
 
 Mr. Wood made this remark to our party, which 
 excited no little surprise, because" it was so different 
 from our earlier impressions. He said: "We find 
 that well authenticated traditions, handed down 
 through a long succession of generations, though often 
 improbable, and sometimes incredible, prove almost 
 invariably true." One of the most remarkable con- 
 firmations is the discovery of St. Clement's House. 
 He took us into St. Clement's Church, which tradition 
 always said was built upon the site of St. Clem- 
 ent's House — the St. Clement who was a cotempo- 
 rary and co-laborer with Paul at Rome, and whom he 
 mentions in his letter to the Philippians. 
 
 Until recently this Basilica was believed to be that 
 which, according to the testimony of St. Jerome, 
 preserved the memory of St. Clement ; that memory, 
 according to tradition, being the house in which he 
 
500 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 had lived, and wherein he had ministered to his Chris- 
 tian brethren. Of a church dedicated to St. Clement 
 there is a continuous series of records, from the end of 
 the fourth century to our own day, and as the records 
 from the twelfth century distinctly apply to this Basil- 
 ica, it was supposed, in the absence of any other church 
 bearing the same dedication, that those of the earlier 
 centuries did so equally. In the year 1857, however, 
 Father Mullooly, the learned Prior of the Irish Domin- 
 icans, to which order the church belongs, com- 
 menced excavations, and discovered an earlier Basil- 
 ica, of which no record remained, exactly beneath 
 what, by comparison, must now be called the modern 
 church. At some period, anterior to the twelfth cen- 
 tury, it was abandoned — filled up, as the chambers of 
 Nero's Golden House were — and turned into a sub- 
 structure for the church above. It is probable that 
 the necessity for this arose through the ruin and 
 devastation caused throughout this region by the 
 soldiers of Robert Guiscard, when he entered Rome 
 by the Lateran Gate, in 1084, on behalf of Gregory 
 VII., and that, as the building of the upper was con- 
 temporaneous with the abandonment of the lower 
 church, the memory of the one became merged in the 
 other. 
 
 The columns dividing the aisles from the nave are still 
 standing in their places, the intercolumniations being 
 filled in with a rude wall of foundation for the church 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WOELD. 501 
 
 above. The walls are seen to have been covered 
 throughout with paintings in fresco ; some irreparably 
 damaged, and scarcely recognizable, others in a most 
 remarkable state of preservation. They are of the 
 eighth and ninth centuries, and include the Crucifix- 
 ion, with the Virgin and St, John standing by the 
 cross, — the earliest example in Rome of this well- 
 known subject ; the Ascension, sometimes called by 
 Romanists (in preparation for their dogma of 1870), 
 "the Assumption of the Virgin," because the figure of 
 the Virgin is elevated above the other apostles, though 
 she is evidently intent on watching the retreating 
 figure of her divine Son ; the Story of St. Alexis and 
 St. Clement ; the Funeral of St. Cyril with Pope 
 Nicholas I. (858-67) walking in the procession; the 
 Descent into Hades ; the Marriage of Cana ; the Vir- 
 gin with the infant Saviour on her lap ; St. Clement 
 officiating at the altar, (a most simple and touching 
 scene, a little table with the bread and cup, but ill— 
 according with the show and glare of the Romish rit- 
 ual) ; and among several others, St. Cyril baptizing 
 by immersion. The eyes of our Baptist friends 
 sparkled as they gazed upon this picture ; regarding 
 it as an evidence that the custom of the eighth and 
 ninth centuries favored their mode of administering 
 the ordinance. 
 
 The mosaic pavement is in many places entire, and 
 the foundations of the marble choir and ambones re- 
 
502 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 moved into the upper church at the time it was built, 
 are distinctly recognizable. But in addition to these 
 discoveries, most wonderful of all, it was found that 
 the Basilica, which shows the construction of the 
 fourth century, was built upon the walls of an edifice 
 of the first century, which further explorations have 
 proved to be the remains of St. Clement's house ! 
 
 Of this several rooms have been excavated. A 
 vestibulum leading into a chamber with a vaulted 
 ceiling, adorned with beautiful stucco ornaments, and, 
 through this, another chamber, beyond which is a 
 staircase communicating with the south aisle of the 
 Basilica, Beyond these, towards the west, a triple 
 arch, divided by columns, opens upon a kind of cor- 
 ridor, from whence a door leads into a large room, 
 which, towards the end of the third century, as shown 
 by the construction, was converted into a Mithraic 
 temple ! There can be little doubt that this was the 
 Memoria mentioned by St. Jerome ; the Oratory, 
 wherein he, and whomsoever among the apostles may 
 have been in Borne, ministered to the first Christian 
 converts, and that it was converted to the service of 
 the Persian deity, when in all probability the property 
 was confiscated during the fearful persecution in the 
 time of Diocletian. 
 
 Father Mullooly deserves great credit for the part 
 he has taken in these important discoveries. He is a 
 public-spirited, liberal-minded man, carrying on this 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 503 
 
 enterprise almost single-handed and alone, receiving 
 but little aid or encouragement from the Church. 
 The Romish hierarchy trusts more to blind, unreason- 
 ing faith, and the "traditions of men," than to his- 
 torical research and archaeological discovery ; and the 
 way they have treated Father Mullooly in this matter 
 shows that they fear the developments of science and 
 discovery will not favor the practice and ideas of the 
 modern Romish Church. Our party took up a gen- 
 erous collection to help along this brave man, in his 
 search for light in the bowels of the' buried city. 
 
 It is well known that ancient Rome lies buried, in 
 some places, twenty to thirty feet below the modern 
 city. Mr. Wood thinks it probable that Rome at one 
 time contained 5,000,000 inhabitants — it is absolutely 
 certain it had a population of two and a half mil- 
 lions ; but afterwards, when overrun by the northern 
 hordes and barbarians, and laid low by lire and pil- 
 lage, it was reduced to about 15,000 people — almost 
 depopulated. Thus by a dozen successive sieges and 
 conflagrations, and the natural accumulation and decay 
 of centuries, the corpse of old Rome has been buried 
 for ages beyond the sight of man. The great aque- 
 ducts of Rome are monuments of the wealth and 
 wonders of the ancient city. Here is one, the Aqua 
 Marcia, constructed 146 years b. c, which stretched 
 its arches of masonry away out to the Sabine Hills, a 
 distance of fifty-six miles ; while the Aqua Claudia, 
 
504 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 put up by the Emperor Claudius A. r>. 50, was over 
 fifty-eight miles in length. The water in Borne to-day 
 is esteemed by tourists the best in Europe, can be 
 drank freely, and, except, of course, in very hot 
 weather, with safety. For six or eight miles, stretched 
 over the Campagna, do the ruined arches mark the 
 course of these great public works of the Roman em- 
 perors, and that the water-supply was an all-important 
 one, is seen in the fact, that good authorities state that 
 when all the aqueducts were in operation in Rome (in 
 the imperial epoch) , the supply must have been fifty mil- 
 lion cubic feet in twenty-four hours, or ten times the 
 actual supply of London for the same time. Rome is, 
 to-day, a city of fountains ; you find them at every 
 turn, and in every square, and there are said to be, in 
 modern Rome, over six hundred, while ancient Rome 
 boasted of thirteen thousand. 
 
 The Column of Trajan, erected by the Senate and 
 the people, a. d. 114, is the most stupendous monu- 
 ment of ancient Rome. Its height from the ground to 
 the 'summit of the statue, is one hundred and thirty- 
 two feet ; it is adorned with a spiral band of bas-reliefs, 
 the subjects of which are Trajan's Victories over the 
 Dacians ; they are of surprising execution ; there are 
 twenty-five hundred figures of men, besides a great num- 
 ber of horses, of arms, of machines for war, trophies, &c. 
 It is of the Doric order, and formed of thirtj^-two great 
 masses of marble, eight of which form the pedestal, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 505 
 
 one the base ; twenty-one enormous circular blocks, 
 one upon the other, form the shaft ; one the capital, 
 and one the pedestal which supports the statue. It 
 was formerly crowned by a statue of Trajan, holding a 
 gilt globe, which latter is still preserved in the Hall of 
 Bronzes, in the Capitol. This statue had fallen from 
 its pedestal long before Sixtus V., 1585, replaced it 
 by the existing figure of St. Peter. At the foot of the 
 column was a sepulchral chamber, intended to receive 
 the imperial ashes, which were, however, preserved in 
 a golden urn, upon an altar in front of it : 
 
 "And apostolic statues climb 
 To crush the imperial urn, whose ashes slept sublime." 
 
 It was while walking in this forum that Gregory the 
 Great, in 590, observing one of the marble groups 
 which told of a good and great action of Trajan, 
 lamented bitterly that the soul of so noble a man should 
 be lost, and prayed earnestly for the salvation of the 
 heathen emperor. He was told that the soul of Trajan 
 should be saved, but that to insure this he must either 
 himself undergo the pains of purgation for three clays, 
 or suffer earthly pain and sickness for the rest of his 
 life. He chose the latter, and was never after in 
 health. This incident is narrated by his three bio- 
 graphers, John and Paul Diaconus, and John of Salis- 
 bury. The forum of Trajan was partly uncovered by 
 Pope Paul III. in the sixteenth century, but excavated, 
 
506 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 in its present form, by the French in 1812. There is 
 much still buried under the streets and neighboring 
 houses. In the area before the column stands a grove 
 of stone, consisting of the broken and unequal shafts 
 of a vanished temple, still keeping a majestic order, 
 and apparently incapable of further demolition. 
 
 The Castle of St. Angelo — originally the Mauso- 
 leum of Hadrian ; the Pantheon, and the tomb of 
 Cecilia Metella, are the best-preserved monuments of 
 ancient Rome ; and this is mainly due to the circular 
 form which is common to them all. This form pre- 
 sents no salient point, either to the elements or to the 
 hand of violence, and offers no sharp corners for the 
 teeth of time to nibble upon. This Castle was entirely 
 faced with massive blocks of the purest Parian marble. 
 On the angles of the basement were groups of men 
 and horses in bronze, of admirable workmanship, and 
 a range of marble statues ornamented the cornice. 
 The summit was crowned by a colossal marble statue 
 of the founder, the head of which is now in the Vati- 
 can Museum. The gates were of gilt-bronze, with 
 gilded peacocks on the pilasters, two of which are also 
 in the Vatican. Of this magnificent decoration noth- 
 ing now remains. Of the ancient work all that is 
 visible from the outside is a portion of the circular 
 wall of the mole, formed of great blocks of peperino, 
 on which the outer casing of the marble was placed. 
 The rest, both above and below, is covered by the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 507 
 
 works of fortification constructed at various periods. 
 The statues on the summit perished when the place 
 was attacked by the Goths under Vitiges, in 537 ; they 
 were flung down by the besieged upon their assailants. 
 
 The castle has for many centuries been also used as 
 a state prison. A cell is shown in which it is said 
 that Beatrice Cenci was confined. Here, in her prison 
 cell, the night before her execution, Guido painted 
 that sad but beautiful face of the unfortunate girl, 
 who, as many believe, suffered torture and death, 
 innocent of the crime of which she was accused. 
 
 The most familiar view of Rome embraces the 
 castle and bridge of St. An^elo, and the Church of 
 St. Peter's. Many times had we seen them in engrav- 
 ings and photographs, and it was with a feeling, half 
 recognition and half surprise, that we beheld the real 
 group in the clear air of an Italian sky. The com- 
 bination is so happy and picturesque, that they appear 
 to have arranged themselves for the especial benefit of 
 artists, and to be good-naturedly standing, like models, 
 to be sketched. 
 
 Of all places in the world, Rome, the city of the 
 Pope, seems to me the one in which a Protestant would 
 be least likely to turn Catholic. The thing which 
 strikes one most forcibly here is the prevalence of 
 priests and monks. We have seen enough of them 
 anywhere in Italy, but here almost every other person 
 is an ecclesiastic of some sort. 
 
508 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Well, things change, even here at Rome ; and to- 
 day the children of Mr. Van Meter's mission sing the 
 hymns of Moody and Sankey under the very walls of 
 the Vatican, so close to the ears of the Pope, that he 
 cannot help hearing them if he would. 
 
 On our last evening in Rome, presents, in the form 
 of two beautiful bronze vases, and a handsome cameo 
 ring bearing the head of Minerva, were given, by our 
 party, to Signor Barattoni, our conductor. In a few 
 fitting words, the presentation speech was made by 
 Miss M. E. Austin, of New Bedford. 
 
 Inscribed on the vases was the following : — 
 
 "Presented to Mr. C. A. Barattoni, by the Italian Divi- 
 sion of Dr. Tourjee's American Party, in token of their 
 esteem and appreciation of the many kindnesses shown 
 them during their summer over the ocean. 
 " Rome, August 15, 1878." 
 
 On the ring was the following inscription : — 
 
 "Presented to Mr. C. A. Barattoni by his American 
 admirers and friends. 
 " Rome, August 15, 1878." 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 509 
 
 CHAPTER XLT. 
 
 THE FIRST DIVISION. — ITALY CONTINUED. 
 
 Naples — Its Matchless Bay — The Museum — Celebrated Paintings 
 and Groups of Statuary — "The Roman Charity" — Pompeii, 
 the Buried City — A Perfect Picture of Roman Life Eighteen 
 Centuries Ago — Vesuvius — Ascent of the Cone — Descent into 
 the Crater — The View from the Summit of Vesuvius — Italian 
 Guides and Beggars — Pisa — The Leaning Tower — The 
 Cathedral — The Campo Santo — The Baptistry — " Genoa, 
 the Superb" — Its Palaces and Churches — A Moonlight Sail 
 on the Mediterranean — Turin — An Exciting Incident — En- 
 counter of a Brave American Girl with Italian Pickpockets. 
 
 Rome was the extreme southern point in our Italian 
 journey, as laid out in our itinerary ; but a few of us 
 were not satisfied to return without seeing Naples and 
 her matchless bay, the buried city of Pompeii, and 
 without climbing and gazing into the fiery crater of 
 Vesuvius. Some twelve or fifteen of us left Rome at 
 ten p.m., and arrived in Naples at six a.m. the fol- 
 lowing morning. We drove to the Hotel Royal, where 
 we breakfasted, and then took carriages for a drive 
 through the town. We rode through the principal 
 streets of the city, visited the Museum and some of 
 the finest churches, which were crowded by a gay 
 throng, celebrating the fete of the "Assumption of 
 
510 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the Virgin." Naples is so unlike Rome we do not 
 need the help of time to grasp and hold the spirit of 
 the place. The veil of the past is not here to be lifted 
 slowly and with reverent hands. A single look from 
 a favorable position puts the traveller in possession of 
 what is most striking and characteristic. At one 
 touch the gates of the mind are opened, and the glo- 
 rious pageant enters. Rome is like a fresco, in which 
 only a measured portion can be painted each day ; but 
 Naples is a sun-picture, taken in an instant. It is a 
 curious fact that in Naples itself there are few objects 
 of interest or curiosity. In architecture there is very 
 little to attract attention. There is not a church or a 
 palace, or a public edifice of any kind that specially 
 holds the attention of the traveller. Why this city, 
 more than double the size of any other in Italy, should 
 languish in architectural poverty, is a mystery not 
 easily explained. All her art treasures of any conse- 
 quence are to be found in the Museum ; and the great 
 attraction of this collection is not in its pictures or 
 marble statues, which seem but crumbs fallen from the 
 table of Rome and Florence, but in its unique relics 
 from Herculaneum and Pompeii. 
 
 The beauty of Naples and its environs can as little 
 be described as exaggerated. The extreme points of 
 the two projecting arms which enclose the bay on the 
 north-west and south-east, are about twenty miles 
 apart. They are similar in their shape and character, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 511 
 
 but by no means identical. The southern promontory 
 stretches farther out to sea ; on the other baud, the 
 balance is restored by the island of Ischia on the 
 north, which is much larger than its southern sister, 
 Capri. The curve of the gulf lying between them is 
 not regular, but the line of the coast makes nearly a 
 right angle at Naples and also at Castellmare, the in- 
 tervening space being nearly straight. Vesuvius occu- 
 pies a point about half-way between the projecting 
 points. The whole space is crowded with human life, 
 and comprises within itself nearly every form of 
 beauty into which earth and water can be moulded. 
 On one side, from a liquid plain of the most dazzling 
 blue, a range of mountains, the peaks of which are 
 for many months covered with snow, rises in the air. 
 Forests of oak and chestnut encircle them midway. 
 Between them and the sea there is hardly a terrace of 
 level land, and the cliffs that line that tideless shore 
 are often crowned and draped with luxurious vegeta- 
 tion. In another direction, the primitive features are 
 less grand ; but the action of volcanic agencies has 
 given great variety of surface within a small compass. 
 Numberless points are crowned with villas, monas- 
 teries, and houses, linked together by a glowing suc- 
 cession of orange groves, vineyards, orchards, and 
 gardens. Over all the unrivalled scene, Vesuvius 
 towers and reigns, forming the point of convergence 
 in which all the lines of beauty and grandeur meet. 
 
512 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 We have seen no other mountain that so impresses the 
 mind as this. Although only four thousand feet high, 
 it produces all the effect of a much greater elevation, 
 because its whole bulk, from the level of the sea to its 
 summit, is seen at a glance. Besides the peculiar 
 interest which attaches to it as a volcano, it is remark- 
 able for its flowing and graceful outline, and the 
 symmetrical regularity of its shape. A painter could 
 nowhere find a better model from which to draw an 
 ideal mountain. But when to this merely lineal beauty 
 we add the mysterious and awful power of which its 
 smoke and fire are symbols, and those fearful energies 
 of destruction which the imagination magnifies at will, 
 it becomes a feature in the landscape, which, consider- 
 ing its position and proximities, has no parallel on the 
 globe. It would seem as if volcanic agency were 
 necessary to crown the earth with its most impressive 
 loveliness and grandeur, just as a human face never 
 reveals all its beauty till passion burns in the eye and 
 trembles on the lip. The action of fire alone heaves 
 up those sheer walls and notched battlements of rock, 
 and sets the mountain lakes in those deep and wooded 
 sockets, by which the most expressive landscapes are 
 formed, and through which great effects are produced, 
 without the aid of great space. Water shapes and 
 smooths the earth into something like a Grecian regu- 
 larity of outline, but fire sharpens and points it after 
 Gothic types. Naples is not only stretched along a 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 513 
 
 winding coast, but scattered over terraces and spurs of 
 a range of semi-circular bills, and is brought into 
 immediate proximity with commanding heights and a 
 grand expanse of water. Thus, when it is seen from 
 the sea — which is the finest point of view — the mag- 
 nificent lines and sweeps of the landscape fairly eat up 
 the city itself, and its white buildings look like rows 
 of China cups and saucers ranged along the shelves of 
 a crescent-shaped closet. But though it is easy to tell 
 what Naples suggests, it is not easy to tell what it is. 
 What words can analyze and take to pieces the parts 
 and details of this matchless panorama, or unravel 
 that magic web of beauty into which palaces, villas, 
 forests, gardens, vineyards, the mountains and the sea, 
 are woven? 
 
 What pen can paint the soft curves, the gentle 
 undulations, the flowing outlines, the craggy steeps, 
 and the far-seen heights, which* in their combination, 
 are so full of grace, and, at the same time, expression. 
 Words here are imperfect instruments, and must yield 
 their place to the pencil and the graver. But no 
 canvas can reproduce the light and color which play 
 round this enchanting region. No skill can catch the 
 changing hues of the distant mountains, the star- 
 points of the playing waves, the films of purple and 
 green which spread themselves over the calm waters, 
 the sunsets of gold and orange, and the aerial veils of 
 rose and amethyst which drop upon the hills from the 
 
514 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 skies morning and evening. " See Naples and die," is 
 the proud boast of the Neapolitans ; and it is not so 
 egotistical. The man who dies without seeing it, in 
 one of its most favorable aspects, loses no ordinary 
 pleasure. There is a combination of scenery here to 
 be found nowhere else, though particular portions of 
 it imrv be seen in every country. But here is a beauti- 
 ful bay, islands, cities, villages, palaces, vineyards, 
 plains, mountains, and volcanoes, gathered into one 
 "coup d'ceil." There is the grandeur of the past, and 
 the beauty of the present; ruined temples, and per- 
 fect ones ; living cities and buried cities, and, over all, 
 a sky that would make any country, however rugged, 
 lovely. 
 
 The Museum of Naples comprises an extensive 
 library, a picture gallery, a large collection of works 
 in marble and bronze, a wilderness of vases ; and all 
 the spoils of Herculaneum and Pompeii are contained 
 in a building of vast extent, originally designed for a 
 training school for cavalry. 
 
 Among the famous paintings, or frescoes, brought 
 here from Pompeii, are two well-known subjects, 
 which have often been engraved ; the " Sacrifice of 
 Iphigenia" — in which Agamemnon is pictured with 
 his face covered, and Iphigenia is grasped by two 
 priests in a very unceremonious manner, — and 
 "Medea" meditating the murder of her children. 
 Both of these pictures have much merit in design and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 515 
 
 execution. The general character of these paintings, 
 and of those which are left on the walls of Pompeii, 
 is light, airy, and sportive. Among the well-known 
 statues, is the. colossal Farnese Hercules, a giant in 
 strength as well as size, judging from the superabund- 
 ance of muscle everywhere visible. When this 
 statue was found, it had no legs, but they were 
 restored by Michael Angelo. Afterwards the legs 
 were found, some fifty miles from the spot where the 
 body was discovered. When compared with the fine 
 work done by that great sculptor of the Middle Ages, 
 the superiority of ancient over modern genius was 
 quickly seen. The contrast was very great, and the 
 result was, the legs of Michael Angelo soon walked 
 away, nevermore to return. 
 
 The celebrated group of the Farnese Bull, which 
 stands in the same hall, is a noble work, full of 
 dramatic effect. This group was found in the Baths 
 of Caracalla at Rome, much injured, and restored by 
 Bianchi, a Milanese sculpti*e-. Amphion and Zethes, 
 obeying their mother Antiope, bind Dirce to the horns 
 of a bull. There are four figures of life-size, besides 
 the bull, some dogs, and a child. This is a picture, 
 or a drama ; the sculptor has told a story in marble, 
 exciting no less interest and pathos than a living 
 tragedy. 
 
 One of the rooms in the museum is dedicated to 
 the patient labors of the scholars, who occupy them- 
 
516 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 selves with unrolling and deciphering the rolls of 
 Egyptian papyri which have been discovered at Her- 
 culaneum and Pompeii. Some large cases contain a 
 quantity of the rolls as they are found, looking like 
 small cylinders of charred wood. Infinite patience is 
 requisite in the process of unrolling them. Some of 
 those which have been most successfully unrolled, are 
 ranged round the room in glass cases. In another 
 room are the books which have been translated and 
 published. It is a melancholy fact to learn that, after 
 all the expense of time and money given to this pur- 
 suit of knowledge, nothing of the least value has been 
 brought to light. 
 
 The king's palace is a large structure, though not so 
 remarkable in its exterior beauty as in its fine situation 
 by the sea. The interior is beautiful, containing some 
 rare works of art, and paintings by some of the great 
 artists. Among so many beautiful things, we will 
 mention but one, — a cradle; it is made of tortoise- 
 shell, mother-of-pearl, gold, and jewels, so elaborately 
 worked that it defies description; it is lined with 
 white satin ; two cherubs, standing upon a ground 
 covered with delicate flowers and ferns, hold the 
 cradle upon their shoulders, while a beautiful guard- 
 ian angel poises over the head, with arms outstretched 
 as if to ward off all evil ; the cherubs, groundwork, 
 and angel, are of a light-colored wood, finely wrought. 
 We must mention one painting, which is called " The 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 517 
 
 Eoman Charity," and represents a young woman feed- 
 ing her father from her breast, through the prison 
 bars, behind which he had been placed to die of starva- 
 tion. How beautiful the look of filial love that beams 
 in her face, and the expression of alarm lest she 
 should be detected by the guard. One can almost 
 see the tears run down her cheeks ; and yet upon her 
 face there seems to shine a look of joy, as she 
 
 " Offers to old age the flood, 
 The milk of his own gift — it is her sire 
 To whom she renders back the debt of blood, 
 Born with her birth. No ; he shall not expire, 
 While in those warm and lovely veins the fire 
 Of health and holy feeling can provide 
 Great nature's Nile." 
 
 * Shakespeare makes Malcolm say of the Thane of 
 Cawdor, that "nothing in his life became him like 
 leaving it." Of Pompeii it may be said, that nothing 
 in its history is equal in interest to its last scene. The 
 fate of the gay Campanian city has been curious. 
 Some cities have secured enduring fame by their com- 
 mercial opulence, like Tyre; by their art-wonders, 
 like Athens ; by their world-wide power, like Rome ; 
 or their gigantic ruins, like Thebes. Of others, scarce- 
 ly less famous for their wealth and empire, the site is 
 almost forgotten ; their very names have perished from 
 the memory of men. But this third-rate provincial 
 town — the " Newport " or " Long Branch " of the Ro- 
 
518 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 man patricians — owes its celebrity to its destruction. 
 Had it not been overwhelmed by the ashes of Vesu- 
 vius, the student and the antiquary would never have 
 been drawn to it as to a shrine worthy of a pilgrim's 
 homage. As a graceful writer has justly remarked, 
 the terrible mountain, whilst it destroyed, has also 
 saved Pompeii ; and, in so doing, has saved for us an 
 ever-vivid illustration of ancient Roman life. The 
 year-long labors of the most assiduous German com- 
 mentators could never have thrown such an amount of 
 light upon the manners and customs of the Eomans, 
 upon the works of the great Latin authors, as has been 
 accomplished by the spade and pick-axe of the excavat- 
 ors of Pompeii. They show us the theatre, the forum, 
 and the temple ; the baker's shop," and the gladiator's 
 training-school ; the lady's boudoir, and the wealthy 
 patrician's tablinum, just as they were when the life 
 and motion of the bright city were suddenly arrested, 
 and its annals abruptly closed. 
 
 The buried city lies about thirteen miles south from 
 Naples, and is now approached by a railway. The 
 situation of Pompeii must have been beautiful. The 
 city stands on a gentle eminence, surrounded by a val- 
 ley, which is here and there ridged by lava streams, 
 the product of some eruption of Vesuvius long anterior 
 to the earliest historical period. Its outlook is fine 
 beyond description. The loveliest of seas spreads its 
 ample bosom in full view of its inhabitants, its cooling 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 519 
 
 breezes sweeping over the town without any interven- 
 ing object to break their power. Vesuvius is about 
 five miles distant, and, after a sleep of many centuries, 
 its sides were covered with gardens and vineyards, its 
 broken summit crowned with forests of oak and chest- 
 nut. It was then an object of beauty and grandeur, 
 and a bounteous source of corn and wine ; not, as now, 
 a mere shape of awful and unmeasured terror, ever 
 watched with uneasy glances, like a sleeping lion or a 
 rising thunder-cloud. A navigable river — the Sarnus 
 — flowed through the city in a clear and rapid current. 
 Blessed with these natural advantages, living in a de- 
 licious climate, the inhabitants of Pompeii might well 
 have felt that the lines had fallen to them in pleasant 
 places. From the height of the still-covered part one 
 looks over the whole district exhumed, with its narrow 
 streets and roofless houses, and over it all still hangs 
 the smoke of Vesuvius. It makes a century seem a 
 very short period of time, and man a mere creature of 
 a day. This city is a perfect picture of a Roman city 
 two thousand years ago. The streets, pavements, 
 temples, images, theatres, dwellings, columns, house- 
 hold gods, baths, arches, fountains, forums, shops of 
 various trades, musical instruments, weapons of war, 
 implements of labor, marble and bronze statues, mo- 
 saics,' frescos and drawings, dining-rooms, bed-rooms 
 and kitchens, with their appropriate furniture ; food 
 for the hungry and medicine for the sick; glassware, 
 
520 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 vases, and pottery; gems, medals, and coins; and 
 fruits, flowers, and shrubs, are all seen as they were 
 on the terrible night when the city was doomed to a 
 sudden destruction. The streets are narrow, some not 
 being more than eight feet across, but they are straight 
 and regular. The pavement is composed of large flat 
 stones, or blocks of lava, and the deep ruts cut in 
 them by the Roman chariots are clearly seen. At the 
 crossings are large stepping-stones for the use of 
 pedestrians, so as to keep their feet from the mud. 
 Everything in the streets was silent and death-like. 
 There were no human beings in the houses, no prom- 
 enaders in the streets, — all were deserted. They are 
 built of stone and brick, plastered on the outside with 
 mortar. An open court is in the centre, and the dif- 
 ferent rooms are arranged around in the Oriental style. 
 The roofs are nearly all destroyed, having been 
 crushed down by the weight of ashes. In the dining- 
 rooms the tables are of stone, and many are covered 
 with petrified wood. Beds and couches are in the 
 sleeping-rooms. In one of the kitchens was found a 
 fowl, put in the skillet, and a stew-pan containing 
 a small pig for roasting, all prepared eighteen hundred 
 years ago. Many beautiful mosaics were found on the 
 floors, and elegant frescos on the walls, and they look 
 as bright and fresh as if they had only been finished a 
 few years. In the " House of Vestals," upon the door- 
 sill, is the word "Salve ," " welcome." A mosaic, with 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 521 
 
 the inscription, "Cave Canem" " beware of the dog," is 
 near the threshold of the " House of the Tragic Poet." 
 In the streets are many shops which still have the 
 signs over the doorways. In one there is some marble, 
 partly sculptured, with the artist's tools lying around ; 
 in another, medicines and surgical instruments ; in a 
 third, a marble counter, with liquor-jars behind it, 
 and the stains made by the wet glasses on the counter 
 prove that this was a drinking-saloon. Then there is an 
 eating-house. Meats and delicacies are on the coun- 
 ter ; fire-places to keep the soups and messes warm are 
 still in the room. The same building contains a grist- 
 mill and a bakery. In the baker's shop a batch of 
 loaves was found which had been in the oven since the 
 24th of August, a. d. 79. These loaves are still to be 
 seen in the museum by all tourists. Lovers of " stale 
 bread" could here gratify their utmost wish. The 
 mill was turned by horse-power. The various temples 
 that have been found contain idols made of marble, 
 silver and gold. The Temple of Isis is eighty- 
 four feet long and seventy-five broad. The ashes of 
 victims were found on its altars. The skeleton of a 
 priest, sitting at a table, on which was spread a meal, 
 is here ; while near the door was another priest, 
 holding in his skeleton hand a hatchet, with which he 
 had tried to cut his way out of the temple. Over six 
 hundred human skeletons have already been exhumed, 
 but, fortunately, most of the inhabitants managed to 
 
522 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 escape, having heeded the warning of the burning 
 mountain. Only the bones remain of the victims, the 
 flesh having mostly perished ; but now and then a little 
 tuft of mouldy hair has been found clinging to the 
 skull. The positions of the bodies, in every possible 
 form of contortion, all indicate a violent death, one of 
 suffering and agony. A miser was found grasping a 
 bag of gold in his bony hand. In one room, a family- 
 group embracing each other in death ; in another, the 
 bones of dancing-girls, mingled with the broken in- 
 struments of music, can be seen. In another place, 
 the skeleton of a cook at his place near the stove in 
 the kitchen. One house contained bones scattered 
 about, bearing marks of being gnawed, while near by 
 lay the skeleton of a clog, showing that the brute had 
 survived aud eaten his master. Here is a company 
 of young and old fleeing to the sea ; there the remains 
 of a mother vainly trying to shelter her three little chil- 
 dren from the fiery storm. Outside one of the gates, in 
 his sentry-box, stands a Roman soldier, in complete ar- 
 mor, with the key of the city-gate in his hand. After 
 standing faithfully at his post for seventeen centuries, 
 he was discovered " clad in rusty armor, the helmet on 
 his empty skull, and the spear in his bony fingers." 
 In the city prison, not far distant, were found the 
 prisoners, with their " feet made fast in the stocks." 
 
 The ruins of Pompeii, as the old lady said about the 
 ruins of the Colosseum, are very much out of repair. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 523 
 
 The walls of the buildings are mostly standing, but the 
 roofs and doors, which were constructed of wood, are 
 gone, having rotted away in their long exposure to the 
 moisture. It looks somewhat like a square in a 
 modern city which has been partially destroyed by a 
 conflagration. All the excavated rubbish has been re- 
 moved, and there is nothing to prove that it had been 
 so Ions: buried under a shroud of earth. When we 
 reach the end of the excavated portion, and are 
 stopped by a sheer wall of gray ashes, some eighteen 
 feet high, with trees and vines growing up it, we be- 
 gin to comprehend the unique character of the place. 
 As is well known, the utmost wrath of the volcano was 
 not let loose upon Pompeii. It was not destroyed by 
 streams of lava, but by a tempest of ashes, cinders, 
 and scoriae, mixed, as is supposed, with liquid mud 
 which penetrated and flowed into all the lower parts 
 of the houses in a way that dry ashes could not have 
 done. 
 
 Pompeii was violently shaken by an earthquake six- 
 teen years before the eruption of Vesuvius. Several 
 temples, theatres, tombs, and houses, together with 
 the colonnade of the Forum were overthrown. Nearly 
 every family went from the place ; and it was some 
 time before they returned. The' Senate hesitated 
 about rebuilding the city, but finally decided to do so. 
 The work was in progress when all at once came the 
 terrible eruption of 79. The cities of Pompeii and 
 
524 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Herciilaneuni were wiped out in a single clay, and a 
 large region of country was depopulated. The Em- 
 peror Titus entertained the idea of cleaning and re- 
 storing the city, and sent two Senators to examine the 
 ground ; but the magnitude of the work frightened 
 the government, and the restoration was never under- 
 taken. In time Pompeii became almost forgotten, 
 and its site was lost. For more than a dozen centu- 
 ries the locality where Pompeii had stood was un- 
 known. 
 
 In 1748, under the reign of Charles III. of Spain, 
 when the discovery of Herculaneum had attracted the 
 attention of the world to that locality, some vine- 
 dressers struck upon some old walls, and unearthed a 
 few statues. The king ordered some excavations to 
 be made in the vicinity ; but it was not until eight 
 years later that any* one supposed they were exhuming 
 Pompeii. Since that time the work of excavation has 
 gone on with a great many intervals of inactivity. 
 Whenever the government makes an appropriation, or 
 some crowned head or other wealthy personage makes 
 an addition to the Pompeian fund, the work is prose- 
 cuted ; but as soon as the money is expended the 
 work stops. It is now more than a hundred years 
 since the excavations began, and yet only a third 
 part of the city has been uncovered. It is difficult to 
 convey the picture of antique life here presented to 
 us ; the narrow, soliclly-paved streets, deeply worn by 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 525 
 
 chariot wheels, with broad stepping-stones ; the Fo- 
 rum surrounded by temples ; the houses showing very 
 clearly all their internal arrangements, and even their 
 ornamentation ; the stores and shops, with their fix- 
 tures and conveniences ; and the street of tombs, 
 appearing comparatively fresh and well preserved by 
 the side of similar streets leading out of Rome. 
 These things are comparatively new. They have been 
 hermetically sealed up for seventeen hundred years, 
 and have hardly been exposed to wind and weather 
 longer than Faneuil Hall or the Old South. 
 
 The houses reveal to us pleasing pictures of antique 
 life. The garden in the centre, surrounded by a col- 
 onnade, with an open top — what could be more 
 delightful for such a climate as this ? The rooms were 
 small, but large enough, for the people lived in the 
 open air, or at the thermae, which were at once baths 
 and gymnasiums. 
 
 In the autumn of 1876, new excavations were com- 
 menced in Pompeii, and judge of the astonishment 
 of the excavators, when, while digging for unknown 
 treasures, they came to a second city beneath the one 
 known to the reader. It had been buried there perhaps 
 centuries before new Pompeii was built, under lava 
 and sulphurous matter, and the architects, probably not 
 knowing of the fact, erected their houses on top of 
 those of their forefathers. It almost seems that art, 
 in the first-buried city, was far more advanced than in 
 
526 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 the latter. Marvels of art and architecture have been 
 found, and when we enter one of those splendid 
 edifices, and admire its paintings and statuary, we are 
 struck with admiration for the great accomplishments 
 of men who lived centuries before the birth of Christ. 
 
 Herculaneum, properly speaking, was destroyed by 
 liquid mud, rather than by burning lava. Since the 
 destruction of the city, there have been six different 
 overflows of lava, so that for all practical purposes 
 the site is covered with this solid material. One great 
 difficulty of the excavations exists in the fact that 
 whilst Pompeii is covered with ashes, Herculaneum is 
 buried beneath a weight of solid lava, which, if not 
 exposed to the air, requires two or three years to cool 
 off, and then it is almost as hard as flagstone. It is 
 easily seen that under such difficulties the excavations 
 but slowly progressed ; the more so, as the digging 
 has to be done very carefully, so as not to mar the 
 relics for which the excavations are carried on. 
 
 In 1863, under a mass of ruins, the excavators dis- 
 covered an empty space at whose bottom some bones 
 were discernible. They immediately summoned M. 
 Fiorelli to the spot, who conceived a felicitous idea. 
 He caused some liquid plaster to be poured into the 
 hole, and the same operation was renewed at other 
 points where similar bones were thought to be visible. 
 When the crust of pumice-stone and hard ashes 
 which enveloped these objects as in a shroud had 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 527 
 
 been carefully removed, before the eye were revealed 
 the moulded forms of four human beings, just as they 
 met death on that terrible day. It was a most thrill- 
 ing sight to look upon those forms, restored, after a 
 sleep of two thousand years, with such skill and per- 
 fection as even to be recognized by their friends, were 
 they now living. The flesh and clothing having been 
 dissipated by time, nothing is left in the mould but 
 the skeleton ; and thus a perfect statue of these per- 
 sons is obtained, showing their very form, features, 
 and drapery, as death met them, almost as perfect as 
 though moulded by the sculptor's chisel. One of these 
 bodies is that of a woman, near whom ninety-one 
 pieces of money, two silver vases, some keys, and 
 jewels were discovered. She was making her escape 
 with these treasures when overtaken by death in the 
 narrow street. You may see her still, stretched upon 
 her left side ; you may distinguish her head-dress, the 
 texture of her clothes, two rings of silver which she 
 wears on her finger ; one of her hands is broken — 
 observe the cellular structure of the bone ; the left 
 arm is raised and crooked ; the delicate hand is 
 clenched, so that the nails, you can see, have entered 
 the flesh ; all the body appears swollen and con- 
 tracted ; the legs alone, very slender, remain ex- 
 tended ; you perceive that she struggled in a pro- 
 longed agony ; her attitude is that of suffering, not of 
 death. Behind her have fallen a woman and a young 
 
528 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 girl ; the elder — her mother, perhaps — was of hum- 
 ble birth, to judge from the size of her ears ; she wore 
 on her finger only a ring of iron ; her left leg raised and 
 stretched, shows that she too has suffered, though less 
 than the noble lady ; the poor lose less in dying ! 
 Near her, as if on the same bed, lies her daughter ; 
 one is at the head, the other is at the foot, their legs 
 being crossed. 
 
 This young girl, almost a child, produces a strange 
 impression on the spectator. You can clearly discern 
 the texture, the folds of her clothing, the linen which 
 covered her arm down to the wrist — some rents here 
 and there exposing the skin — and the embroidery of 
 the small shoes which encased her feet ; above all, you 
 see her last hour, her supreme moment, as if one had 
 been present at it, under the wrath of Vesuvius. She 
 had raised her robe over her head in terror ; she fell, 
 while running, with her face against the ground, and 
 being unable to rise, had supported on one arm her 
 young and feeble head. One hand is open, as if she 
 had held something — perhaps the veil which covered 
 her. 
 
 The finger-bones pierce through the plaster ; she 
 did not endure any long pain, yet upon her it is most 
 pitiful to look; she was not fifteen years old. The 
 fourth body is that of a man of gigantic stature. He 
 has flung himself on his back to die bravely ; his arms 
 and legs are straight and immovable. His clothes are 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 529 
 
 very sharply defined, the tunic which once was new 
 and brilliant, the sandals laced to the feet, with the 
 irons that fastened the wooden soles still plainly dis- 
 cernible. On the bone of one finger he wears a ring of 
 iron ; his mouth open, and some teeth are wanting ; his 
 nose and cheek-bones are boldly marked ; the eyes 
 and hair have disappeared, but the moustache remains. 
 There is a martial and resolute air in this fine corpse. 
 - At Herculaneum similar discoveries and casts have 
 been taken. As soon as the experienced eye of any 
 worker recognizes the indications of a mould being 
 formed in the lava, labor near that point is stopped, 
 and tamping irons are cautiously inserted to make two 
 or three rents in the cavity. Then the liquid plaster 
 is poured in, and after being left sufficiently long to 
 harden, the lava is taken away, and the cast is removed. 
 In this way some curious facts have been brought to 
 light. Two skeletons were found in close embrace, 
 the teeth perfect, indicating youth in its prime, — skel- 
 etons of a young man and maid. They had fallen 
 together in their flight, and death had wedded them. 
 There was a mother with her three children, hand in 
 hand, who tried vainly to outrun death. Perhaps the 
 mother, singly, might have done it ; but she could not 
 leave her children. Plenty of food for sad thought is 
 furnished in remembering that at Herculaneum and 
 Pompeii, as before remarked, six hundred skeletons 
 have already been exhumed ! — many in such positions 
 
530 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 and circumstances as to suggest very touching episodes 
 accompanying the final catastrophe. The skeleton of 
 a dove was found in a niche overlooking the garden of 
 a house. She had kept to her post, notwithstanding 
 the shower of hot, death-dealing lava. She sat on her 
 nest through all the storm, shielding the egg which 
 was taken from beneath her. 
 
 Their feasting halls show too plainly the epicurean 
 and gluttonous habits of the people. Here were seen 
 the circular tables of fir-wood or maple, or occasion- 
 ally of citron-wood, plated with silver, and supported 
 on legs of ivory. They were covered by draperies of 
 wool or silk, embroidered or striped with gold or 
 purple ; and around them were arranged the triclinia 
 (three couches) for the accommodation of the guests, 
 who did not sit at table, but reclined. Three com- 
 monly rested on each couch. They lay with the upper 
 part of the body resting on the left arm, the head a 
 little raised, the back supported by a cushion, and the 
 limbs either slightly bent or stretched out at full 
 length. The feet of the first came behind the back of 
 the second, and the feet of the latter behind the back 
 of the third. A cushion was placed between each 
 guest. In front of the couches, which occupied three 
 sides of the room, the guide called our attention to a 
 marble spout, or drain, in which each guest, after 
 tickling his throat with a feather, could throw the con- 
 tents of his stomach, and then return with renewed 
 
THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 531 
 
 appetite to the banquet. Many of these halls had 
 their rooms for retching, called the Vomitorium ; but 
 here the lazy gourmands could fill and unload their 
 stomachs without rising from .their couches. Many 
 moralists are of opinion that Pompeii, like Sodom and 
 Gomorrah, was destroyed because of its wicked- 
 ness. 
 
 The discoveries in that city are, many of them, of a 
 character not to be described in public prints, especially 
 by the aid of the engraver's art, at the present day. 
 Some of the ear-drops and breast-pins worn by women 
 were curious to behold. Lamps were fashioned in 
 form quite as obscene as they were fantastic ; and the 
 same may be said of the chandeliers, and of many of 
 the utensils used in ordinary life. Curiously engraved 
 seals are found that would hardly be suitable to im- 
 press to-day on the back of a letter. The frescos, 
 paintings, mosaics, and sculptures, and even jewelry, 
 discovered in some of the houses, show a terrible 
 depravity in morals. Many are so indecent the public 
 are not allowed to look at them. The foulest epigrams 
 of Martial, the grossest descriptions in Petronius and 
 Apuleius, are illustrated to the eye in the remains of 
 these cities, in sculptured and pictorial representations 
 which cannot be described, hardly alluded to. The 
 husband and father in Pompeii saw daily, before his 
 own eyes and the eyes of his wife and daughters, sub- 
 jects delineated which no man should look upon a 
 
532 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 second time. Whether we regard such things as cause 
 or effect, they are equally mournful to contemplate. 
 
 What must have been the tone of conversation and 
 sentiment, and the standard of morals in a community 
 where such gross indecencies were tolerated, not to 
 say favored? There is much in the character and his- 
 tory of the Roman people which we may justly admire 
 — their energy, their courage, their political wisdom; 
 but we are not called upon to overlook moral distinc- 
 tions, and insist that the influences which formed their 
 civilization were as efficacious in training the individ- 
 ual to excellence, as in making the nation powerful. 
 
 No other mountain in the world is so well known 
 as Vesuvius. That Medusa of beauty and terror 
 combined, is sure to excite the deepest curiosity to 
 look down into the chasm from which the cloud of 
 smoke ascends, and which has so often vomited forth 
 destruction and death. 
 
 In summer, the night is the usual time taken to 
 ascend the mountain, on account of the intense heat; 
 moreover, the pyrotechnic display of the crater, 
 belching forth its flood of light and fire, receives 
 additional effect from the surrounding darkness. We 
 leave Naples at ten o'clock, and ride in a carriage with 
 three horses abreast, a gayly decorated team, to the 
 Observatory, which stands in a commanding position 
 on a sharp point some distance below the foot of the 
 cone. Our course is first along the shore of the bay 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 533 
 
 as far as Resina, on the site of Herculaneum. This 
 road, for four or five miles, was a fairy scene. They 
 were celebrating the "Assumption of the Virgin. " 
 The street and 'buildings, public and private, were 
 arched and trimmed with lights in every possible 
 form, position, and color; and as we looked down 
 upon it, at midnight, from the Hermitage, it appeared 
 like a fiery serpent crawling through the city ; or as 
 if a river of burning lava from Vesuvius was about to 
 overwhelm the town. After getting extra horses at 
 Resina, for the trail from the Hermitage to the cone, 
 also guides (there were about six guides to each tour- 
 ist) and canes, we turn towards the mountain, and 
 steadily ascend between vineyards and lava streams, 
 by a road of endless twistings and turnings. This 
 slope, from the bay to the foot of the cone, looks 
 smooth and beautiful from below ; but as we go up, 
 we pass through scenes of terrible desolation, where 
 the molten torrents have heaped themselves up in a 
 thousand monstrous shapes before they cooled, and 
 became black, crumbling stone. Frequently these 
 masses look like huge piles of charred and half-burned 
 human bodies, presenting every variety of form, and 
 reminding 'one of a picture of the " Last Judgment," 
 by Rubens, but without his glowing color. Arms, 
 legs, torsos, and protuding entrails are repeated in a 
 horrible phantasmagoria, the more impressive because 
 of the spirit of destruction which broods over this 
 
534 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 mountain-side, now and then presenting pictures most 
 suggestive of infinite wrath. The Hermitage is about 
 twenty-two hundred feet above the bay, commanding 
 an extensive view of the city, the bay, and the islands. 
 From this point, we take saddle-horses and proceed 
 some two miles farther, with an ascent of seven hun- 
 dred feet, to the foot of the cone. This part of the 
 route is through fields of lava, even rougher and 
 wilder and more desolate than the * road below. 
 Masses of lava of various shades of brown and gray, 
 according to the dates of their deposit, are piled 
 upon and tumbled over each other, cleft into seams, 
 and twisted into uncouth shapes, — the whole scene 
 resembling a field of battle covered with the wrecks and 
 fragments of a deadly fight. The only sound heard 
 was the roaring and murmuring of the mountain, — a 
 heavy, sullen sound, like the plunge of a large body 
 into the sea, or the roar of distant artillery, — recur- 
 ring at brief and regular intervals ; as if the fire-king 
 were warning rash intruders against the peril of ap- 
 proach. We shall not forget that ride to the cone. Each 
 horse had a rider on his back, and one or two guides 
 and beggars hold of his tail, and beating the poor 
 animals with their canes at every step over a road 
 where to have been thrown would be like falling upon 
 a sharp-toothed harrow. We had not been in the 
 'saddle for several years, and yet the guides, with their 
 clubs and yells, drove our poor beasts at a perfect 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 535 
 
 breakneck speed over the roughest and crookedest 
 trail we ever saw on mountain or plaiu. We would 
 much prefer to have been on Tarn O'Shanter's mare, 
 pursued in her mad flight by the witches. 
 
 The cone itself rises fifteen hundred feet more, a 
 mass of volcanic sand and ashes, like fine gravel. 
 This is the only fatiguing part of the whole ascent. 
 It has to be done on foot ; no horse or mule can climb 
 its steep sides ; but the traveller can receive various 
 kinds of assistance from the omnipresent and super- 
 serviceable guides. 
 
 You can be carried up in a rude chair, fastened on 
 poles, which stout mountaineers take on their shoul- 
 ders. Or you can have an assistant with a strap, 
 pulling before, while another pushes behind. The 
 walker sinks into the yielding sand, and getting no 
 foothold slips back two-thirds of the step. The cone 
 rises at an angle of forty-five degrees, and, at every 
 step, you sink, and slip, and slide in the light, yield- 
 ing ashes. With not a little experience in climbing 
 mountains, and as a pedestrian, nothing we have ever 
 known bears any comparison to this. It is like the 
 walking we sometimes dream of, when the feet are 
 shod with lead, or are glued to the ground, and we 
 struggle and strain but never get on. 
 
 We were determined not to accept help either from, 
 "puller" or "pusher," unless obliged to do so. Our 
 
536 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 good friend, the Doctor,* struggled bravely for a 
 season, but looking back we saw that he was captured 
 by a trio of camp followers, one pulling, and the other 
 two pushing in the, rear. A big stout fellow held his 
 halter at our nose till we had nearly reached the crater, 
 imploring us, with all the eloquence he possessed, to 
 take his help, assuring us we would never reach the 
 summit alone, and that he should charge just as much 
 as if he assisted only on the last half or quarter of the 
 distance. It took not a little of our strength and 
 patience to battle with and ward off the annoying 
 guide ; and it was not till we, with a sober and 
 earnest face, asked nim how much he would give us to 
 help him up the mountain, that he, in anger and su- 
 preme disgust, turned and left us. After an hour's 
 hard climbing, with much puffing and blowing, and 
 many rests, we reached the summit, and looked down 
 from the rim of the crater into the horrible chasm, 
 which might well be the workshop of Vulcan. The 
 crater is an irregular cavity, three or four hundred 
 feet deep, and four or five hundred feet in diameter. 
 The floor and side walls are incrusted with sulphur 
 and various salts, presenting many colors, a mixture 
 of dirty white and yellow predominating, though 
 green, red, blue, and all the intervening shades are 
 mixed in. In the deepest part of the crater, at one 
 
 * Dr. Z. Freeman, of Cincinnati, to whom the Italian Section 
 is indebted for many acts of professional skill and kindness. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 537 
 
 side, a small cone has been puffed up. This is thirty 
 or forty feet high, open at the top, and from this open- 
 ing the greater part of the smoke, fire, and lava 
 ascends. Here is the central point of activity, and the 
 flames constantly roll up with an eruption more or 
 less violent every few seconds, which throws up red- 
 hot stones and lava. These eruptions produce a rum- 
 bling noise and a trembling sensation, quite apparent 
 on the rim of the crater, accompanied by a crashing 
 and hissing sound, very like that made by a large wave 
 breaking upon a shingly shore. While we stood there 
 looking at it, these red-hot masses were thrown in the 
 air to a height of two or three hundred feet, and the 
 heavy thump with which they fell upon its ashy sides 
 had a sound of death in it. Every eruption was fol- 
 lowed by a higher burst of flame and a larger volume 
 of smoke. Here is a grander show of fireworks and 
 pyrotechnic display than America has shown on her 
 Fourth of Julys for a hundred years. In a party of 
 travellers there are always those who want to dive the 
 deepest and stay under the water the longest — who 
 are never happy unless they are doing something rash 
 and fool-hardy — having a perfect fascination for the 
 blood-curdling business, by constantly courting danger 
 and death. And so there was nothing to do but we 
 must follow our guides down into the crater. We 
 were assured there was no possible danger; that no. 
 person had ever received the slightest harm, save the 
 
538 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 crazy Frenchman, who immortalized his name, by 
 throwing himself into the fiery gulf. This courageous 
 fellow acquired a good deal of fame by his enterprise ; 
 but it is said his body was never recovered ! As a 
 work of cremation, it was pronounced a success. 
 
 We followed the party till we found ourself sinking 
 nearly to the knees in the hot, steaming ashes, when 
 we turned about, and beat a hasty retreat, concluding 
 "distance lent enchantment to the view." No sooner 
 had we gained the rim of the crater than voices came 
 up, as if from the lower world, summoning us to fol- 
 low on, as we were to return by a different route from 
 the one ascended, through an orifice created by the 
 ocean of lava that has here made its escape. These 
 guides, who would sell their lives for a franc (and 
 cheat you at that), will walk right into these fiery 
 regions, where are falling thick and fast the storm of 
 red-hot shot and shell. "The reckless fellows will 
 stand where these balls of fire are dropping around 
 them, and with one eye on them, will dodge about 
 from place to place, to escape being hit, with- the 
 utmost sangfroid. Taking a penny from your pocket, 
 they will imbed it in the liquid lava, and return the 
 picture to you, neatly framed in the lately glowing 
 gilt. This you take home with you as a souvenir of 
 Vesuvius. 
 
 A view of the Bay of Naples, from the top of Ves- 
 uvius, is probably the most charming picture upon 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 539 
 
 earth. We beheld it in the first blush of morning. 
 Gold and blue, that brilliant gold of the sun, a flood 
 of heavenly sunbeams, and a splendid azure blue is 
 lying upon the sea at our feet. That is a sky so mag- 
 nificent, so many colored as no other country has ever 
 seen. Yonder lies Capri, there Procida, and at a little 
 distance, Ischia, all floating upon the water, like so 
 many boats, adorned with many-colored flags, full of 
 splendor and charm. This wreath of villages and 
 cities, washed by the Bay of Naples, glistens like mar- 
 ble, and yonder where the sea pierces so deep in the 
 land, is Naples. That charming city is surrounded by 
 landscapes of the brightest hues ; blue, green, life, joy ! 
 The Neapolitans, proud of this gem, call her "a piece 
 of Paradise lost upon the earth." But the view about 
 and near us was of a very different type. It was one 
 of the most solemn and awful desolation — the sublime 
 architecture of ruin — peaks, dells, and plains of fune- 
 real lava, the beds of extinct fire-torrents, the surface 
 everywhere tossed and broken, as if a stormy sea had 
 been arrested in a moment and turned into a t solid 
 mass. It was the most striking embodiment of death, 
 brought into immediate contrast with the most intense 
 and fiery life. 
 
 Of all the works of God upon which we have ever 
 looked, including Niagara, the Alps, Yosemite, and the 
 ocean, by far the most thrilling and impressive was the 
 fiery cone of Vesuvius. After the great eruption of 
 
540 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 1872, when over two hundred people lost their lives, 
 the volcano was very quiet until about three years ago, 
 when another period of activity began, which has con- 
 tinued to the present time. 
 
 A railroad to the summit of Vesuvius has been pro- 
 jected. Fourteen miles of it will use the ordinary en- 
 gine. The steepest part of the road — three miles — 
 will have the train drawn over it by a wire rope. The 
 plan is to have the whole road covered with a vaulted 
 roof of lava to a distance of about one hundred feet 
 from the crater, which will, at the same time, divide 
 the streaming lava into two tributaries, running on 
 either side of the road, which is built of lava also, and 
 is elevated. 
 
 Descending the mountain is a very different experi- 
 ence from going up, both in the matter of time and 
 toil. The first few steps are a little trying to the 
 nerves, but you soon gain confidence, and then let 
 yourself out. All you need is to stand erect, tip 
 back your head, and start off, putting one foot before 
 the other, in a dignified sort of way. It took us a full 
 hour to climb the cone. We took giant strides, and 
 made the descent in eight minutes, making the dust 
 and ashes fly, like a herd of buffaloes scampering over 
 the prairie. 
 
 When we reached the Hermitage, we thought we 
 would settle with our guides, as we were short of time 
 to reach the morning train for Rome. The proprietor 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 541 
 
 of the hotel told us the amount of our lawful bill ; 
 " though," said he, " they will ask you more, but don't 
 pay it." Who ever heard of a traveller getting away 
 from an Italian brigand, or guide, without being 
 robbed? We tendered them the legal fee, and after a 
 deal of haggling, they refused to touch it ; and bawl- 
 ing out again and again, " You settle p'lice ; you settle 
 p'lice." We were short of time to reach the station, 
 and if they followed us there, we were sure to be de- 
 tained for examination by the police, and it would be 
 all the same to us, whether justly or unjustly, for by 
 that means we would lose the train, and fail to con- 
 nect with our friends at Rome for the journey to Pisa. 
 And so we paid their full claim, and were glad to get 
 out of their clutches alive. 
 
 It would be impossible to give an adequate picture 
 of the incidents of our drives through and about 
 Naples. The long city front presented a thousand 
 curious pictures of Naples life. Women, old and 
 young, weaving nets — the occupation of a great many 
 — and making macaroni, which was hanging in the 
 open air to dry, and gradually acquiring color from 
 the absorption of dust. Beggars, showing every sort 
 of deformity and mutilation, beset us, and beseech us, 
 and follow our carriage in troops, especially when the 
 rising ground made it easy for them to keep up. 
 Among these were old men and women, and whole 
 flocks of boys, who had various contrivances for 
 
542 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 attracting attention and exciting interest. One ran 
 along by the carriage, turning an occasional summer 
 sault ; a dozen played tunes with their mouths and 
 noses, making a strident noise through lips and nos- 
 trils. Not the least annoying were pcdlers of minerals 
 from the mountain, who begged us to buy, and re- 
 fused to be put off by a dozen denials. This gauntlet 
 of beggars takes away half the pleasure of any 
 excursion in this beautiful country. As we drive 
 along the street, we passed a group of women and 
 children. One of the women was examining the head 
 of a companion, and occasionally bringing her thumb- 
 nails together with a crack that meant business. On 
 our way to Pompeii we saw a good deal of this hunting 
 going on, and much combination of rags. The sun 
 was warm, and it would have seemed so much better 
 if these people had been naked, — in fact, the children 
 were half naked, and many of the older people had but 
 little more drapery than our first parents, — their 
 naked arms, legs, and shoulders looking like ripe 
 oranges. Why take the trouble to collect a covering 
 of rags, which only attract the dust? Glimpses into 
 court-yards displayed trees loaded with oranges. Ex- 
 istence here is easy. Wants are few. These lazzaroni 
 bask in the sun, and never show energy, except in 
 begging. Some of the young beggars grin between 
 their whining petitions, and dodge the coachman's 
 whip with the most playful humor. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 543 
 
 We were, of course, delighted with Naples and its 
 vicinity ("where only man is vile"), but were glad to 
 get back to Eome, whose sights and sounds had be- 
 come so familiar to us. Its remarkable aqueducts 
 seemed to be striding out upon the Campagna to wel- 
 come us to home and friends. Eome is cleaner than 
 the city by the bay, and its population seems to be of 
 a distinctly superior type. The importunities of beg- 
 gars and cabmen are here reduced to the Italian mini- 
 mum. One may walk the streets of Rome with com- 
 parative freedom from annoyance. He need not be on 
 constant guard against pickpockets, which cannot be 
 said of Naples. There are not the same easy oppor- 
 tunities here as at Naples for the artistic " study of the 
 partially nude," but one may walk abroad with less 
 danger of soiling his boots. 
 
 The stranger may see all there is of special interest 
 in Pisa in a few hours. Here are those four buildings, 
 "so fortunate in their solitude and their society" — 
 the Cathedral, the Campo Santo, the Baptistry, and 
 the Leaning Tower. They are quite near each other, 
 covering but a few acres of ground, and are all em- 
 braced in one glance of the eye. 
 
 Every person knows something of the Leaning 
 Tower ; he remembers how it looks, or how it did 
 look, pictured in his geography in school-days, in 
 company with the Wall of China, the Great Tun of 
 Heidelberg, and the Natural Bridge of. Virginia. 
 
544 A SUMMER JlUNT 
 
 There are other things about it, which no person, now 
 living, knows. Is its leaning position the result of 
 accident or design ? We will not condense the argru- 
 ments that have been advanced on both sides of this 
 question. The fact that Italy abounds in odd and 
 grotesque specimens of architecture, and that in other 
 parts of Italy there are several more leaning towers — 
 and the fact that the upper gallery, which is smaller 
 than the others, shows a very perceptible inclination 
 back towards the perpendicular, as if in some degree 
 to counterbalance the deviation of the other part, 
 leads us to believe that, notwithstanding the soft and 
 spongy nature of the soil, its inclination is the result 
 of design, and not of accident. It is seven hundred 
 years old, is built of marble, eight stories high ; it 
 inclines fourteen feet from the perpendicular, is fifty 
 feet in diameter, and one hundred and eighty feet 
 high. Instead of an old, black, crumbling fabric, as 
 we supposed, it is a light, airy, graceful structure, of 
 white marble, and each of its eight stories is encircled 
 by fluted columns, with Corinthian capitals, that were 
 beautiful when they were new. This singular struc- 
 ture is simply a campanile, or bell-tower, appurtenant 
 to the Cathedral,' as is the frequent custom in Italy; 
 and in its top hangs an ancient chime of bells. We 
 ascended by the same stairs which were trodden so 
 often by Galileo in going up to make his astronomical 
 observations (Pisa was the birth-place of the great 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. • 545 
 
 astronomer) ; in climbing spirally around the hollow 
 cylinder in the dark, it was easy to tell on which side 
 of the tower we were, from the proportionate steepness 
 of tne staircase. One does not feel altogether safe at 
 the summit, as he looks down from the high side ; but 
 when he crawls down to the lower side and cranes his 
 neck out far enough to see the base of the tower, his 
 nerves are apt to tremble, and he takes care not to 
 "bear down," and tries to "feel very small," lest his 
 added weight should cause the lofty tower to totter 
 and tumble to the ground. The eye takes in a fine 
 view from the top, embracing the vast plain as far as 
 Leghorn on one side, with its gardens and grain-fields 
 spread out like a map. The blue summits of the 
 Apennines shut in the view to the east. To the west 
 we could see the distant Mediterranean, whitened with 
 the sails of commerce, its broad expanse of water 
 stretching away to the horizon — 
 
 " To where the blue of heaven on bluer waves shut down ! " 
 
 It would have been a thrilling sight to see any 
 ocean, when one has rambled thousands of miles 
 among the mountains and vales of the inland, but to 
 behold this sea, of all others, was glorious indeed ! — 
 this sea, whose waves wash the feet of Naples, Con- 
 stantinople, and Alexandria, and break on the hoary 
 shores where Troy, and Tyre, and Carthage have 
 mouldered away; whose breast has been furrowed 
 
546 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 by the keels of a hundred nations through more than 
 forty centuries — from the first rude voyage of Jason 
 and his Argonauts, to the thunders of Navarino, that 
 heralded the second birth of Greece. 
 
 The Cathedral is one of those buildings, so common 
 in Italy, rich with the spoils of centuries, which would 
 justify, and indeed requires, in order to be compre- 
 hended, a study of many days. The facade, of five 
 stories, is rich and imposing, and the stately bronze 
 doors are of admirable workmanship. The dome is 
 finely frescoed, and the works of art that adorn the 
 walls are numerous and interesting. In the nave 
 hangs a chandelier, once beautiful, but now black and 
 time-worn, and suspended from the centre of the 
 dome above by a black, dirty rope. 
 
 This chandelier sus^ested to Galileo the idea of the 
 
 DO 
 
 pendulum, which has been applied to so much advan- 
 tage to the world, and given such an extension to the 
 field of science and mechanics. The pulpit is of an 
 ancient order, and is a superb structure of richly 
 carved marble ; and the whole church is wealthy with 
 paintings, mosaics, and sculpture. It is in the form 
 of a Latin cross, and is bedecked with ornaments 
 magnificent and costly. Candles burn on the altars, 
 and music echoes along the deserted aisles. 
 
 The Campo Santo, on the north side of the cathedral, 
 w T as, until a comparatively recent date, the cemetery 
 of the city. The space enclosed within its marble 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 547 
 
 galleries is filled to the depth of eight or ten feet with 
 earth from the Holy Land. The vessels which carried 
 the knights of Tuscany to Palestine, in the days of 
 the great Saladin, were filled at Joppa, on returning, 
 with this earth as ballast, and, on arriving at Pisa, it 
 was deposited in the cemetery. It was long supposed 
 to have some peculiar power of rapidly decomposing 
 the bodies which were deposited in it. The dust of a 
 German emperor, among others, rests in this con- 
 secrated ground. The frescos on the walls of the 
 Campo Santo rank high in the history of art, and are 
 now much studied and deservedly valued. 
 
 The Baptistry is a circular building of white mar- 
 ble, about a hundred feet in diameter. It is older 
 than the Leaning Tower, having been built in the 
 eleventh century. It is raised in the form of an 
 immense dome, and rises to a height of a hundred 
 and seventy-nine feet. The great ornament of the 
 interior is the pulpit, by Nicolo da Pisa. * It is hex- 
 agonal in form, supported by seven columns, — one 
 at each angle, and one in the centre. The central col- 
 umn rests upon the back of a man in a crouching 
 posture, with an eagle in his right hand. The columns 
 at the angles are supported by animals, — lions, tigers, 
 and griffins. The capitals of the columns are highly 
 carved, with a very sharp and delicate chisel. Over 
 the columns is a cornice which runs round the pulpit, 
 and at each angle above are three small columns, 
 
548 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 between which are panels, decorated with bas-reliefs 
 admirably executed. One, especially, representing 
 the Last Judgment, is a miracle of patience and skill. 
 The baptismal font is of purest Parian marble. It is 
 in the middle, and is large enough fur a dozen persons 
 to occupy at one time ; indicating that immersion was 
 the form of baptism here practised. 
 
 But the most remarkable thing about this building 
 is its wonderful musical echo. Our guide stationed 
 himself at the side of the font and sang a few notes. 
 After a moment's pause, they were repeated aloft in 
 the dome, but with a sound of divine sweetness — as 
 clear and pure as the clang of a crystal bell. Another 
 pause, and we heard them again, higher, fainter, 
 and sw r eeter, followed by a dying note, as if they 
 were fading far away into heaven. It seemed as if an 
 angel lingered in the temple, echoing with his melo- 
 dious lips the common harmonies of earth. Even 
 thus does the music of good deeds, hardly noted in 
 our grosser atmosphere, awake a divine echo in the 
 far world of spirit. 
 
 On our way from Pisa to Genoa we skirt the shores 
 of the Mediterranean for many miles, welcoming the 
 cool, sweet breath of its western breeze. We pass 
 through eighty-two tunnels, aggregating about twenty- 
 five miles, the longest being from five to seven miles. 
 The scenery, for much of the way, is of the most rav- 
 ishing beauty — the sea on one side and the olive-clad 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 549 
 
 hills on the other. The hills are often crowned by 
 towns or castles, and the valleys are highly cultivated. 
 The curving coast offers many opportunities for pros- 
 pect and retrospect. 
 
 Genoa still merits its old title, "The Superb." It is 
 difficult to imagine a city more picturesquely situated. 
 The site is an amphitheatre, looking to the south and 
 west, and the houses rise tier on tier against the faces 
 of the hills, the summits of which are crowned by 
 castles and forts. The harbor is a semi-circular bay, 
 two and a half miles in diameter, into which project 
 two long moles, one from each side, adding to its 
 security. < The buildings are generally of marble, 
 very high and imposing. A succession of streets of 
 fair width form a sort of boulevard around the oldest 
 part of the city, and on these are the palaces and 
 finest buildings. The other streets are very narrow, 
 some of them mere cracks between the lofty walls. 
 The architecture of the palaces is striking and grandi- 
 ose. As at Florence, these buildings are significant 
 of the stormy days of the republic, when a nobleman's 
 palace needed to be half castle. We are impressed 
 here by the great number of them, by the rugged 
 strength of their facades, and by the grace and rich- 
 ness of their pillared courts. These magnificent dwell- 
 ings attest the former importance of the city, and the 
 wealth and pride of the citizens. Some of them have 
 fine gardens, running up the faces of the hills on ter- 
 
550 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 races, and enriched by fountains, temples, and arcades. 
 Nearly all have galleries of good pictures, among 
 which are found some of the best examples of the 
 great masters. Among them may be mentioned the 
 Eoyal Palace, the Brignole, the Balbi, the Marcello 
 Durazzo, the Pallavicini, and the Municipio, or Town 
 Hall, the latter containing numerous reminiscences o'f 
 Columbus. The guide was delighted to show us "ze 
 letter written b} r Christopher Colombo! — write it 
 himself ! — write it wis his own hand ! " also the afore- 
 said gentleman " ora a bust/" The Palazzo Doria and 
 the Villa Rosazza have delightful gardens, in which 
 millions must have been expended. Many of the 
 churches are sumptuous edifices, with fine sculptures 
 and paintings. Among the best are San Lorenzo (the 
 cathedral), San Ambrogio, San Maria di Carignano, 
 and the Annunziata. On an eminence commanding 
 charming views, is the public garden, called Acqua 
 Sola, which presents a lively scene in the afternoon. 
 A long, high wall, with arcades, separates a part of 
 the harbor from the houses of the city. The top of 
 it, forty feet wide, smoothly paved with marble, is a 
 pleasant promenade in the morning and evening. It 
 is also used as a skating-rink with rolling skates. 
 Genoa has a double line of fortifications : the first, a 
 strong wall, enclosing the city itself, the second 
 making a wide sweep and extending over the high 
 surrounding hills, the tops of which are provided with 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 551 
 
 castles and entrenchments. This outer line, built two 
 hundred and fifty years ago, has been recently 
 strengthened, though for what purpose it is hard to 
 see, as the natural approaches to Genoa by land are 
 very difficult. Genoa is at present a flourishing city, 
 the most important, commercially, of all Italy. Its 
 foreign commerce is nearly as much as that of Boston, 
 and it has a large coastwise trade. Its harbor pre- 
 sents a busy scene, the shipping being crowded into a 
 comparatively small compass, and the loading and 
 unloading are done by lighters. 
 
 One of the most interesting things for a traveller to 
 see at Genoa, is the Campo Santo, or cemetery, a 
 short distance outside the walls. * Of course it is too 
 artificial, like all Italian cemeteries, but it is the best 
 of its kind. A quadrangle is enclosed by graceful 
 arcades, very rich in mortuary sculpture. Some of 
 the hundreds of angels and allegorical figures are very 
 effective, to say nothing about the portrait busts, of 
 which there are a great number. With such an oppor- 
 tunity, the sculptors of Genoa, a very clever school, 
 ought to develop a high order of talent. But, after 
 all, how much more satisfying are the rural ceme- 
 teries which have not been converted into marble- 
 yards. 
 
 One American invention, the horse railroad, has 
 recently been adopted in Genoa, and very American 
 cars run along by the palaces of the Doges, and the 
 
552 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 handsome monument of Columbus. The great dis- 
 coverer was almost a Genoese, 'having been born near 
 here, at Cogoleto, within the province ; and his memory 
 is held in high esteem by his countrymen of to-day. 
 
 While in Genoa, we took a sail one evening in the 
 harbor. The rowers stood round the wharves in 
 little armies, waiting to earn a franc. The night was 
 lovely, the stars were bright, and the moon hung like 
 a beacon-light over the walls and marble palaces of 
 the city. The streets and palaces were brilliantly 
 illuminated, and rising tier on tier to the lofty hills 
 encircling the city, the whole town glowed and blazed 
 like a coronet of diamonds. It was a dream of our 
 life to sail on the Mediterranean and up the castellated 
 Rhine. And here, on that sweet summer night, 
 tossed on the gently swelling waves, under the soft 
 radiance of the shining stars, we found the romance 
 and fruition of that dream. 
 
 Although Turin is the third city in Italy, in size 
 (it has a population of 212,000), there is but little of 
 interest to detain the traveller. It has some fine 
 bridges, that on the Dora forming a single arch ; large 
 squares and broad streets, laid out at right angles ; 
 the monuments and palaces in the new town ; and its 
 delightful promenades bordered by villas. 
 
 A little incident occurred at this place, which, at 
 one time, threatened a sensation. One evening as we 
 were strolling along the street, near our hotel, we 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORUD. 553 
 
 observed an excited crowd a few rods distant. We 
 hurried to the spot, not thinking in the least that one 
 of our number was a party to the agitated throng. 
 Miss W.,* one of our young ladies, had had her 
 pocket picked, and discovering the thief in the act, 
 she seized him by the collar and charged him panto- 
 mimically (not being able to speak the Italian tongue), 
 with the theft. He stoutly denied taking the purse, 
 and again and again asserted his innocence. Our con- 
 ductor, who could " wrestle with the vernacular," was 
 called in to help one of his party out of trouble. He 
 gave his countryman a friendly hearing and accepted his 
 version of the affair. "He is a citizen, and he would 
 not rob a lady," — oh, no, of course not! But our 
 " unbelieving friend" had great faith in her eyes — she 
 believed them, even against the word of the accused 
 and his dozen confederates, with the good opinion of 
 our conductor thrown in. "I saw him snatch it from 
 my pocket, and one of them now has it," again reiter- 
 ated the brave lady. This was translated by our con- 
 ductor to the thieves, and fearing that one of their 
 number would soon be in durance vile, the purse was 
 soon passed into the hands of its owner, though not 
 by the one who niched it from her pocket. So much 
 for the brave girl who had faith in her eyes. May 
 h^r faith be increased. 
 
 * Miss I. D. S. Willis, Hannibal, Mo., who remains abroad two 
 years, for lingual accomplishments. 5 /i £ vv <~* S 7i ht*-e -e 
 
 TA lake.*'] l^^ & v<^y &*t*A£ £t*i. 
 
554 
 
 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER Xin. 
 
 THE FIRST DIVISION— THROUGH FRANCE, ENGLAND, ETC. 
 
 From Turin to Paris — London Again — Oxford and its Colleges — 
 The Students — The Martyr's Memorial — Wesley and Wickliffe 
 — The Bodleian Library — Stratford-on-Avon — Shakespeare's 
 Birthplace — Interesting Relics — Anne Hathaway's Cottage — 
 To Ireland, via Birmingham and Holyhead — Dublin and its 
 Sights — Irish Jaunting-Cars — Departure for Home. 
 
 In our long twenty-two hours ride from Turin to 
 Paris, we felt the discomforts of the European cars, 
 and the lack of the comfortable American sleeping- 
 car. There was much fun and merriment in the 
 " happy families " before we adjusted our extemporized 
 couches, and various conditions of rest for the night. 
 Things were " stirred up " generally, and the frisky 
 fleas of Italy and France were doubly lively; they 
 hopped and skipped about like the waltzing water- 
 bugs, without the least regard to the comfort of weary 
 and sleepy passengers. Some took their traps and 
 made couches upon the floor ; others partially reclined 
 upon the seats, pillowing their heads upon their neigh- 
 bors' shoulders ; while others sat bolt upright, and 
 slept as best they could, That was a memorable 
 night, when we reclined or sat, leaned or lounged 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 555 
 
 about, in helter-skelter fashion, like a palpitating mass 
 of hog's-head cheese, or like poultry going to market 
 promiscuously in a bag. 
 
 Of our arrival in Paris, — of our sight-seeing and 
 rambles in that gayest and most beautiful capital in all 
 the world, — witnessing its follies and its beauties, by 
 daylight and gas-light; of our visit to the Exposition, 
 the manufactory of the Gobelin tapestries, the porce- 
 lain works at Sevres, St. Cloud, Versailles, its old 
 palace of Louis X1Y. , with its artistic decorations and 
 stately courts, its incomparable park, with its par- 
 terres and avenues, its gardens and groves, its lakes, 
 basins, and fountains, — adorned with Tritons, 
 nymphs, Apollos, Neptunes, syrens, dolphins, and 
 dragons, — all the divinities of fable, the Dancing 
 Faun, the intoxicated Bacchus, the superb Juno, and 
 the tearful Latona, all spouting high in air the snowy 
 waters; of all these, is it not written by the other 
 scribes in The Book of The Chronicles of The Tour- 
 jee-ans ? And as we have occupied so much space on 
 other fields of description, we will not take that which 
 properly belongs to others. 
 
 After leaching London, we visited several places 
 which our limited first visit did not permit us to see : 
 among them were the Kensington Museum, the Albert 
 Memorial and Royal Albert Hall, and the National 
 Gallery. We had our choice, here, of returning via 
 Glasgow, as we came, or of going by Windsor, Ox- 
 
f 
 
 556 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 ford, Warwick, and Stratford ; and then crossing the 
 Irish Sea to Dublin, and joining the other portion of 
 the party on the steamer at Londonderry. Of course 
 the most of us chose the latter route, and Rev. Perry 
 Marshall was chosen as our conductor and manager, 
 and right well and satisfactorily did he fill the place. 
 Our time did not allow us to stop and examine old 
 Windsor Castle and its most attractive surroundings ; 
 but we were offered a fine view of it from the train, 
 a mile and a half away. Between Windsor and 
 Oxford, we had pointed out to us the home and estate 
 of Lord Beaconsfield, the Prime Minister. 
 
 It was vacation season when we visited Oxford, 
 and we missed the nearly three thousand students who 
 are receiving the drill and discipline which few institu- 
 tions of the world offer. The absence of the students 
 gave all the better opportunity to see and examine the 
 workshop where such scholarship is turned out, as 
 we see in Gladstone, Goldwin Smith, French, Stanley, 
 Froude, Kingsley, Ruskin, Lord Derby, and Tenny- 
 son. 
 
 The stone of which the Oxford College buildings are 
 constructed is, unfortunately, a very soft one, and the 
 present ragged, scarred, and peeled condition of those 
 beautiful structures, can hardly be imagined. Some of 
 them are completely honey-combed. In many instances 
 they are rebuilding, or rather making over the edifice, 
 stone for stone, in exactly the old style and pattern. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 557 
 
 One is tempted to lay irreverent hands upon the smooth- 
 worn monster brass nose of the gate of Brasenose Col- 
 lege. It is said, however, that the name of the college 
 has nothing to do with " Brass " ; but was derived from 
 "Brasin-hous," the ancient name of "Brew-house." 
 Bishop Heber and Rev. F. W. Eobertson were 
 students of this college ; also Rev. Henry Carpenter, 
 the successor of Starr King, and present pastor of 
 Hollis Street Church, Boston. 
 
 Taken as a whole, there is nothing in Oxford that 
 quite equals Christ College, at the termination of 
 High Street, for the number of members upon its 
 foundation, its great names, its courts, and its famous 
 " Hall," one hundred and fifteen feet by forty. This 
 college, built by Cardinal Wolsey on the scale of his 
 own magnificence, is par eminence, the nobleman's 
 college. These tufted gentlemen occupy, at meal- 
 time, a raised platform by themselves ; and a fee is 
 required to see this superb feasting-hall. 
 
 To spend a summer afternoon sauntering along the 
 broad walk of Christ College, looking out upon the 
 great smooth meadows and shining Cherwell on one 
 side, and beautiful Merton College, with its masses 
 of splendid trees and gardens on the other, with 
 now and then the deep tones of the big bell in M Tom 
 Tower " filling the air with solemn sound, Oxford 
 would seem to be a place in which to forget the 
 present, to lose the future, and to walk and muse life 
 
558 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 away in the dim cloisters of the past. Our first 
 impression of Oxford still remains, that it is the 
 palace of the scholar, — his paradise of literary rest, 
 his final reward, — rather than a place to make vigor- 
 ous scholars and workingmen. 
 
 Some one has classified the students of Oxford into 
 1, the reading men; 2, the idle slow men; 3, the 
 good kind of fellows ; 4, the idle fast or do-nothing 
 men; 5, the regular fast man. Nevertheless, we can 
 but acknowledge the superior thoroughness of Eng- 
 lish scholarship ; its richer culture and more perma- 
 nent and substantial depth. What it does it does 
 well. Those who are scholars are genuine ones. 
 They are inspired with a true love of sound learning 
 which never leaves them. 
 
 But we must speak of a spot consecrated by some- 
 thing far dearer and nobler than scholastic learning, 
 valuable as that is to society; viz., "The Martyrs' 
 Memorial," erected on the spot where the three chief 
 martyrs of the Information, Cranmer, Latimer, and 
 Eidley, suffered. This beautiful monument marks, as 
 it were, the spiritual centre of England. It is such 
 spots as these — the "Martyrs' Tree "at Brentwood, 
 the place where Hooper was burned at Gloucester, 
 and Smithfield Market — which make England holy 
 ground. 
 
 We visited Lincoln College, where John Wesley 
 was educated. In an entrance hall is an old oaken 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 559 
 
 pulpit, in which this renowned founder of the Metho- 
 dists preached his first sermon. It has not been used 
 for a long time. It is not in the chapel, yet stands 
 where it generally stood in old times, reminding us of 
 the period when the chapel or church was for " ser- 
 vices " before altars ; preaching was only occasional, 
 the pulpit being brought in when it was wanted. The 
 pulpit has not been "wanted" for some time, in one 
 sense ; but it may be doubted if the Oxonians of to- 
 day can hear from any other pulpit discourse more 
 impressive than that which may still strike an attentive 
 ear from that silent pulpit in the hall. Lincoln Col- 
 lege was founded expressly to wage war against the 
 ideas of WicklhTe. Its chief literary treasure now is 
 the manuscript of Wickliffe's Bible ; its chief fame 
 is to have produced the great man of whom the 
 " morning star " was forerunner — John Wesley. We 
 visited the famous Bodleian Library, which has over 
 three hundred thousand printed volumes, besides 
 thirty thousand choice manuscripts. We saw here 
 the book of " Enoch," brought by Bruce from Abys- 
 sinia, a hundred years ago ; also the lantern used by 
 Guy Fawkes in his attempt to blow up the Parliament 
 Buildings. In this library we saw the "History of 
 Troy," — the first book printed in the English language, 
 about 1472, — and the first English Bible, printed by 
 Miles Coverdale, in 1535. We visited the "Theatre," 
 or hall, where all the honorary degrees of the Univer- 
 
560 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 sity are conferred, prize poems read, etc. In this hall 
 Bishop Heber, at his graduation, recited his "Pales- 
 tine." At Oxford there are twenty-one colleges and 
 four halls. Cardinal Wolsey was once purser of 
 Magdalen College ; and from the tower overlooking 
 the square a Latin anthem is sung on the first day of 
 May, at five o'clock in the morning, in lieu of the 
 mass that used to be sung in papal times. 
 
 After leaving the literary and classic old town of 
 Oxford, we proceeded to that most interesting spot to 
 all who speak the English tongue, the birth-place of 
 the Bard of Avon. We have no special sympathy 
 with the gushing, sentimental traveller who bottles up 
 his emotions and exclamations like soda-water, and is 
 ever ready to uncork and let them "fizz" on every 
 suitable occasion. But we must confess that we felt a 
 strange thrill at our heart as we rode into the quaint 
 old town where the one Shakespeare of the world 
 lived, and loved, and died. We proceeded first to the 
 house in Henley Street, where Shakespeare was born, 
 and where he lived much of his life. The house where 
 he died is no longer standing. The one where he was 
 born is a rather large, old-fashioned stone house, with 
 two gables fronting the street, two stories high, and 
 with a pointed roof. Over the front door is a pointed 
 portico, and the whole exterior of the house indicates 
 a certain amount of both taste and prosperity in the 
 Shakespeare family. But inside it is plain and rough- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 5G1 
 
 ly finished, — a house that seemed utterly lacking in 
 comfort. In the room where the immortal dramatist 
 was born, the poet Wordsworth once tried to make 
 some verses. The rough draft of them has been pre- 
 served with great care, and is framed under glass. 
 First were the three following lines : — 
 
 " The house of Shakespeare's birth we here may see ; 
 That of his death we find without a trace. 
 Vain the inquiry, for immortal he " — 
 
 Here came a pause. Evidently this beginning was 
 not satisfactory to the poet, for he drew his pen 
 through it to cross it out; and then, taking a fresh 
 start, proceeded thus : — 
 
 " Of mighty Shakespeare's birth the room we see ; 
 That where he died, in vain to find we try. 
 Useless the search, for all immortal he, 
 And those that are immortal never die." 
 
 The kind old ladies who now have charge of the 
 house, and with so much pride and courtesy show it to 
 the visitor, are quite epigrammatic in their remarks, 
 worthy the literary lord whose domain they guard. 
 As one of them took us into the room of which we are 
 speaking, in a thin, cracked voice, she said : " There 's 
 not much to see here, but a great deal to feel,''' 
 "Walter Scott wrote his name here, and many less 
 famous, that fall with the whitewash." To our "un- 
 
562 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 believing friend " who " doubted " about any such 
 man as Shakespeare having ever lived, intimating that 
 Bacon wrote his plays : " Why could n't Sliakespeare 
 be born as well as any other man ? " emphatically ex- 
 claimed the oracular old lady. One side of the chim- 
 ney-piece here is called "The Actor's Pillar," so 
 tnickly is it covered w T ith the names of actors, Edmund 
 Kean's signature being among them, and still clearly 
 legible. As before stated, on one of the window- 
 panes Walter Scott cut his name with his diamond 
 ring (this was in obedience to a request, as there was 
 then no autograph-book in the house), and all the 
 panes are scratched with signatures, making you think 
 of Douglas Jerrold's remark on bad Shakespearian 
 commentators, that they resemble persons who write 
 on glass with diamonds, and obscure the light with a 
 multitude of scratches. One room, called the Museum, 
 is devoted to Shakespearian curiosities, or relics, one 
 of which is a school-boy's desk (" illustrated with 
 cuts"), in which the illustrious scholar studied and 
 ivhittled w T hen a schoolboy. Boys were then, very 
 evidently, as is the present custom, in the habit of 
 using their jackknives on their benches. You can sit 
 in his antique study-chair, if you like, and think un- 
 utterable things. There is certainly no word that can 
 even remotely suggest the feeling with which you are 
 there overwhelmed. Here, too, is his writing-desk, a 
 battered old affair, which, in its first estate, was a very 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 5G3 
 
 humble and homely article of furniture ; but how it 
 made one's heart beat to sit down before it, and think 
 what words had been written there, — words which 
 must endure till this round world itself shall pass 
 away ! In a glass case is seen the seal-ring which 
 Shakespeare wore ; also the one worn by Dr. Hall, 
 who married his favorite daughter. Here was a cast 
 of the great dramatist's face, taken after his death, and 
 here was a portrait of him, taken when he was between 
 thirty-eight and forty. It is poor and crude enough 
 as a work of art, and faulty in execution ; but the 
 artist had, somehow, managed to prison something of 
 the wonderful soul of his subject. The brow is the 
 kindliest ever known, and something strong and reso- 
 lute, and yet very calm, looks out of those painted 
 eyes. The portrait is kept under lock and key, every 
 night, in an iron safe. It is much too valuable to be 
 trusted without the greatest precautions. At the back 
 of the cottage, now isolated from all contiguous struct- 
 ures, is a pleasant garden, and, at one side, is a cosey, 
 luxurious little cabin — the home of order and of pious 
 decorum — for the ladies who are custodians of the 
 Shakespeare house. If you are a favored visitor, you 
 may receive, from this garden, at parting, all the 
 flowers, prettily affixed to a sheet of purple-edged 
 paper, that poor Ophelia names, in the scene of her 
 madness : " There 's rosemary, that 's for remembrance ; 
 pray you, love, remember ; and there is pansies, that's 
 
564 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 for thoughts ; there 's fennel for you, and columbines ; 
 there 's rue for you ; there 's a daisy. I would give 
 you some violets, but they withered all when my 
 father died." The minute knowledge that Shakespeare 
 had of plants and flowers, and the loving appreciation 
 with which he describes pastoral scenery, are explained 
 to the rambler in Stratford by all that he sees and hears. 
 There is a walk across the fields to Shottery, Anne 
 Hathaway's cottage, which the poet must often have 
 taken in the days of his courtship, whereon the feet of 
 the traveller are buried in wild flowers and furrow- 
 weeds. The high road to that hamlet, also, passes 
 through rich meadows, and lands teeming with grain, 
 flecked everywhere with those brilliant scarlet poppies, 
 which are so radiant and bewitching in the English 
 landscape. To have grown up amid such surround- 
 ings, and, above all, to have experienced amidst them 
 the passion of love, must have been, with Shakespeare, 
 the intuitive acquirement of most ample and most 
 specific knowledge of their manifold beauties. It 
 would be hard to find a sweeter rustic retreat than is 
 Anne Hathaway's cottage, even now. The tall trees 
 embower it ; and over its porches, and along its pictur- 
 esque, irregular front, and on its thatched roof, the 
 woodbine and the ivy climb ; and there are the wild 
 roses and the maiden's blush. For the young poet's 
 wooing no place could be fitter than this !• They show 
 you, in that cottage, an old settle by the fireside, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 565 
 
 whereon the lovers may have sat together. In the 
 rude little chamber next the roof, an antique carved 
 bedstead, which Anne Hathaway once owned, and on 
 which Shakespeare is believed to have slept when he 
 was first married. People say he could n't have loved 
 her very much, because he only left her his second- 
 best bed in his will. He must have loved her in the 
 days when he went to woo her in that humblest of all 
 humble cottages, It is the poorest little place, — 
 scarcely more than a cabin, — with thatched roof, the 
 roughest walls ; and, inside, rough stone floors, and 
 jagged-looking beams overhead. 
 
 This, as we know, continued to be Anne's home for 
 many years of her married life ; the husband being 
 absent in London, and sometimes coming down to 
 visit her at Shottery. " He was wont," says Aubrey, 
 " to go to his native county once a year." The last 
 surviving descendant of the Hathaway family — Mrs. 
 Taylor — lives in the house now, and welcomes with 
 homely hospitality the wanderers from all lands who 
 seek, in a sympathy and reverence most honorable to 
 human nature, the shrine of Shakespeare's love. 
 
 On that delicious summer evening, which is forever 
 memorable in our life, the golden glory of the west- 
 ering sun burns on the gray spire of Stratford Church, 
 and on the ancient graveyard below, wherein the 
 mossy stones lean this way and that, in sweet and 
 orderly confusion, and on the peaceful avenue of lin- 
 
566 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 dens, and on the burnished waters of silver Avon. 
 The tall, arched, many-colored windows of the church 
 glint in the evening light. A cool and fragrant wind 
 is stirring the branches and the grass. The small 
 birds, calling to their mates, or sporting in the wanton 
 pleasure of their airy life, are circling over the church 
 roof, or hiding in little crevices of its walls. On the 
 vacant meadows across the river stretch away the long 
 and level shadows of the pompous elms. Here and 
 there, upon the river's brink, are pairs of what seem 
 lovers, strolling by the reedy marge, or sitting upon 
 the low tombs, in the quiet evening. The funeral 
 train of Shakespeare, on that dark day when it moved 
 from New Place to Stratford Church, had but a little 
 way to go. The river, surely, must have seemed to 
 hush its murmurs, the trees to droop their branches, 
 the sunshine to grow dim, as that sad procession 
 passed ! His grave is under the gray pavement of 
 the chancel, within the rail, and his wife and his two 
 daughters are buried at his side. There, " after life's 
 fitful fever, he sleeps well." It is a fine old church, 
 as are most of the English country churches, its oldest 
 portion dating as far back as 1140 ; and not the Poet's 
 Corner in Westminster Abbey, where sleep so many 
 of the illustrious, is so interesting to us as this rustic 
 church, where rests the mightiest dead of all. 
 
 The pilgrim who reads, upon the gravestone itself, 
 those rugged lines of grievous entreaty and awful 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 5(57 
 
 imprecation which guard the poet's rest, feels no 
 doubt that he is listening to his living voice, for he 
 has now seen the enchanting beauty of the place, and 
 he has now felt what passionate affection it is able to 
 inspire. Feeling, and not manner, would naturally 
 have commanded that sudden, agonized supplication 
 and threat. Nor does such a pilgrim doubt, when 
 gazing on the painted bust, above the grave, that was 
 made by Gerard Johnson, the stone-cutter, that he 
 beholds the authentic face of Shakespeare. It is 
 not the heavy face that the portraits represent it. 
 There is a rapt, transfigured quality in it which these 
 do not convey. It is thoughtful, austere, and yet 
 benign. Shakespeare was a hazel-eyed man, with 
 auburn hair, and the colors that he wore were scarlet 
 and black. Being painted, and also being set up at a 
 considerable height on the church wall, the bust does 
 not disclose what is sufficiently perceptible in a cast 
 from it, — that it is, in fact, the literal copy of a cast 
 from the dead face. One of the cheeks is a little 
 swollen, and the tongue is very slightly protruded, 
 and is caught between the lips. 
 
 It need not be said that the old theory, that the 
 poet was not a gentleman of great consideration in his 
 own time and place, falls utterly and forever from the 
 mind when you stand at his grave. No man could 
 have a more honorable or sacred spot of sepulture ; 
 and while it illustrates the profound esteem of the 
 
568 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 community in which he lived, it testifies to the high 
 religious character by which that esteem was con- 
 firmed. " I commend my soul into the hands of God, 
 my Creator, hoping and assuredly believing, through 
 the only merits of Jesus Christ, my Saviour, to be 
 made partaker of life everlasting." So wrote Shake- 
 speare, in his last will, bowing in humblest reverence 
 the mightiest mind — as vast and limitless in the 
 power to comprehend as to express — that ever wore 
 the garments of mortality. 
 
 After leaving the church, we strolled along the 
 shores of the Avon, past the Memorial Building which 
 is being erected to his memory on the banks of the 
 river. On our return we paid our respects to the 
 Red Horse Inn, where Washington Irving stayed 
 when in Stratford. 
 
 They keep the room very much as it was when he 
 left it ; for they are proud of his gentle genius and 
 grateful for his commemorative words. In a corner 
 stands the old-fashioned arm-chair in which he sat on 
 that night of memory and of musing, which he has 
 described in the " Sketch-Book. " A brass plate bear- 
 ing his name is affixed to it ; and the visitor observes, 
 in token of its age anp! service, that the hair-cloth of 
 its seat is considerably torn and frayed. Every 
 American pilgrim sits in this chair, and reads the 
 memorials of Irving that are hung upon the walls ; 
 and it is no small comfort there to reflect that our own 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 569 
 
 illustrious countryman — whose name will be remem- 
 bered with honor as long as true literature is prized 
 among men — was the first, in modern days, to dis- 
 cover the beauties and to interpret the poetry of the 
 birth-place of Shakespeare. 
 
 As we strive, after many days, to call back, and to 
 fix in words the impressions of that sublime experience, 
 the same awe falls upon us now as fell upon us then. 
 
 Nothing else upon earth, — no natural scene, no 
 relic of the past, no pageantry of the present, — can 
 vie with the shrine of Shakespeare, in power to im- 
 press, to humble, and to exalt the devout spirit that 
 has been nurtured at the fountain of his transcendent 
 genius. 
 
 But little more of our story remains to be told. 
 We left Stratford in the early evening via Birmingham 
 and Holyhead, crossing St. George's Channel, and 
 reached Dublin the following morning. 
 
 Most of us charter the jaunting-car for our drive 
 through the streets of Dublin. The carriages of every 
 country are peculiar ; but the Irish jaunting-car is the 
 most peculiar, the drollest, craziest piece of loco- 
 motive furniture ever invented. It is eminently Irish, 
 every fragment of it, — smacks of the brogue, — and it 
 seems a ridiculous " bull " to get into it at all. It is a 
 shaky, oblong box, mounted upon two rickety wheels, 
 about three feet apart, unfolding in the middle length- 
 wise, into two seats that hang over outside the wheels, 
 
570 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 where you sit in pairs, back to back, with your rollick- 
 ing driver in front, flogging his raw-boned horse to 
 the top of his speed, turning sharp corners, plunging 
 through the crowded streets of the city, and rattling 
 over the rough roads in the country, at the same head- 
 long pace. And then the politeness with which your 
 Jehu touches his hat and hopes " your honor is satis- 
 fied with the dhrivin', sure," and will "bestow a small 
 thrifle to spend in dhrinkin' your health," is quite 
 inimitable. The Blarney Stone none of us kissed, as 
 several, it would seem, had done so already, and there 
 was no room for the "blarney" of others. 
 
 We visited the varjous objects and points of inter- 
 est about the city, — Nelson's monument, the birth- 
 places of Wellington and Tom Moore, the home of 
 O'Connell, Trinity College, and Dublin Castle 
 
 We went into St. Patrick's Cathedral, at one end of 
 whose aisle is a little old crypt, all that remains of 
 that portion of the church which is said to have been 
 built in a. d. 540. 
 
 We were in Ireland just long enough to ascer- 
 tain that it is inhabited by real genuine Pats and 
 Bridgets, — the land of potatoes, whiskey, and rebel- 
 lions. It is not strange that this people, which has 
 produced so many patriots and orators, should chafe 
 under the rule of a foreign yoke. It is a beautiful 
 island, — the northern portion often reminding us of the 
 hills and mountains of Scotland. The climate here is 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 571 
 
 so moist that every stone fence, rock, and cliff, is clad 
 in some kind of verdure. Here in early autumn, when 
 the American landscape is often faded and brown, it 
 was fresh and velvety, — the old trees circled round 
 with the leafy ivy, and the hedges in their light-green 
 livery of spring. 
 
 Leaving Dublin towards evening, we reached Lon- 
 donderry at a late hour of the night. Early in the 
 morning, we boarded a small steamer, and, after a 
 pleasant two-hours' sail down Lough Foyle, we joined 
 our friends on the " Anchoria," off Moville. A few of 
 the division remained behind, — at London, Paris, 
 and Italy, — some to visit the Holy Land, others for 
 study and general sight-seeing in Europe. 
 
 A European tour, to most of us, is an event in our 
 lives. But how different the result to different tastes 
 and minds. To some, it is a kind of inspiration, or 
 new birth; a sort of education obtained in no other 
 way. To most persons, it broadens the mind, en- 
 larges the sympathies, and enables them to break 
 away from the petty narrowness and dull routine of 
 their every-day life. And yet it is marvellous how 
 little some persons add to their intellectual stock-in- 
 trade by a foreign tour. They can say they have been 
 to Europe, and that is all they have to show for it. 
 
 " Some minds improve by travel : others, rather 
 Resemble copper wire, or brass, 
 Which gets the narrower by going farther." 
 
572 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Emerson uttered the truth in a nutshell, when he 
 said, " One finds in Europe what he brings to it," or 
 words to that effect. The capacity to see and grow 
 does not depend upon what we usually mean by 
 education. We have seen travellers, who, with great 
 opportunities for culture, by travel and otherwise, 
 have only succeeded in narrowing their views, and 
 intensifying their egotism. And their wives, — well, 
 what they have obtained by foreign travel, they have 
 bought at the shops. 
 
 On the other hand, how many people we have met who 
 are making the most of all they saw in the Old World, 
 and by whose experience American society will be 
 made the richer and sweeter. And even those people 
 who get little but from the shops, take home some- 
 thing that will bear fruit. 
 
 We look back upon our tour, and its experiences, 
 as upon a pleasant dream. The sights we have seen, 
 the emotions we have felt (not to be expressed), and 
 the delightful acquaintances we have formed, will 
 make us richer and happier all our life-time. Many 
 of the best little things of the trip, — the bright say- 
 ings and doings, — cannot be reproduced in a book; 
 they are preserved and stored away in memory. 
 
 Our travels in the British Isles, in Germany, up the 
 castellated Ehine, scaling the glorious Alps, in vine- 
 clad France and its gay capital, leave bright and 
 happy pictures in memory's gallery ; and the recollec- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 573 
 
 tions of Loved Italta, its art, its antiquities, and 
 scenery, The Fortunate Seventy can sincerely 
 say, are not less beautiful and golden than its glowing 
 sunset skies. 
 
574 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE SECOND DIVISION. 
 
 Notes of the Tour through Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and 
 France — Interesting Incident at Zurich — Congratulatory Reso- 
 lutions passed at Paris. 
 
 The second division of the Tourjee party was made 
 up at the Inns of Court Hotel, in London, and Mr. 
 F. Felix Limozin was assigned by Messrs. Cook & Son 
 as our courier and conductor for the continental jour- 
 ney. After our sojourn in London, we left, all in 
 joyous spirits, on the evening of Monday, July loth. 
 "We took the Flushing route from Holborn Station at 
 8.40 p. M., arriving at Sheerness about ten o'clock in 
 the evening. Here we went on board the steamer 
 "Princess Elizabeth," which took us across the North 
 Sea, arriving at Flushing at an early morning hour. 
 From thence we took a train almost immediately for 
 Antwerp. 
 
 Arriving at Antwerp we were at once quartered at 
 the Hotel de la Paix, and in a very brief time every 
 member of the party was settled in his or her cozy 
 room, and ready for "doing" the city. In a body our 
 division visited the famous Museum of Paintings, the 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 575 
 
 Cathedral of Notre Dame, and the Zoological Gardens. 
 There were very many amateurs and connoisseurs of 
 the fine arts in our party, and it was with admiration 
 and delight that they lingered around the productions 
 of the old Flemish masters. Greatly admired were 
 such works as "Christ between the Two Thieves," "Ad- 
 oration of the Magi," the "Crucifixion," and the 
 "Descent from the Cross," by Rubens ; "The Entomb- 
 ment," by VanDyck; and "The Entombment," by 
 Quentin Matsys- The story of Matsys, as a matter 
 of course, was learned by heart, and a visit was made 
 to the famous well. The next morning drives were 
 taken in and around the city, and visits were thus paid 
 to the wharves, the Exchange, and to other points of 
 interest. 
 
 On the morning of July 18th, we took a train at 
 9.15 a. m., and arrived at Brussels about one hour 
 later. In that city we took up our abode at the Hotel 
 de la Poste. The ladies of the party quickly found 
 their way to the lace manufactories and sales depots. 
 Other points of interest were by no means passed by, 
 however. Visits were made to the Ducal Palace, the 
 Cathedral of Ste. Gudule, the Botanical Gardens, the 
 Picture Gallery, the Palace of the Nation, &c. 
 
 *July 19. It was an early breakfast that the Amer- 
 ican party took this morning, for we were to leave for 
 Cologne by a train starting at six o'clock. Early starts 
 were enjoyed by us all, as the morning air was so 
 
576 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 fresh and invigorating. Closely ensconced in the now 
 familiar and oftentimes luxurious railway coaches, we 
 Hurriedly passed through Verviers, Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 &c, and arrived at Cologne about half-past eleven 
 o'clock. The custom-house officials allowed all our 
 luggage to pass without examination. At Cologne we 
 were registered at the Hotel de Hollande. Of course 
 every member of our party visited the famous Cathe- 
 dral, and some the Museum and Art Gallery. In the 
 evening, quite a delegation attended Gilmore's Band 
 Concert, and after the regular programme, in honor of 
 the Americans present, " The Star-Spangled Banner" 
 and several other American national airs were played. 
 
 July 20, This morning we took the steamer 
 w Kaiser Wilhelm," at 9 o'clock, for a journey up the 
 Rhine, and the trip was one which we shall ever 
 remember with unalloyed pleasure. 
 
 Of the three hundred passengers on board, it would 
 be safe to conclude that nine-tenths of the number 
 were either Americans or English. 
 
 " A soldier of the Legion lay dying in Algiers," 
 
 was called forth as we passed Bingen, and other 
 legendary and historic incidents were recalled as we 
 sped by the ivy-clad ruins of many an old castle. 
 Arriving at Biebrich about 7 o'clock in the evening, 
 we at once took the coaches for Wiesbaden. 
 
 July 21. Some of our party attended service at 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 577 
 
 the Lutheran Church ; others visited the Greek 
 Church, while many strolled about the town or re- 
 mained at the Hotel du Rhin. 
 
 July 22. We left Weisbaden this morning by 
 rail at 10 a. m., and took our dinner at the Hotel du 
 Nord, in Frankfort-on-the-Main. Our stay being 
 short, hasty visits were made, by the aid of carriages, 
 to the Museum, Goethe's House, the Ariadneum, 
 the monument to Goethe (erected in 1844), &c. 
 The Romer was also visited. This building, histori- 
 cally, was the most interesting edifice seen in Frank- 
 fort. The Romefberg, directly in front, is the 
 great market-place of the city, and down to the end of 
 the last century no Jew was permitted to enter its 
 confines. Leaving by the afternoon train, Ave arrived 
 in Heidelberg about 7 o'clock in the evening, and took 
 up our temporary residence at the Hotel de TEurope. 
 
 July 23, The various places of interest in Heidel- 
 berg were visited, and very many of the party will 
 remember with pleasure- the " ivy gathering" around 
 the old Schloss. 
 
 July 24. This date found us in Baden-Baden, 
 enjoying rambles about this gay and brilliant water- 
 ing-place, together with visits to the old castle and 
 drives in the edge of the Black Forest ; whilst our 
 base of operations was the excellent Hotel de Hol- 
 lande. Our stay in Baden-Baden was one of unalloyed 
 pleasure. 
 
578 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 July 25. We took an early train for the long ride 
 to SchafThausen. For the first time since leaving 
 Scotland we were obliged to travel in a rain-storm, 
 and the Hotel Schweizerhoff, at the Falls of the Khine, 
 was reached under depressing atmospheric influences. 
 It was cold and stormy, but, notwithstanding these 
 adverse circumstances, our party was in the best of 
 spirits, and bent upon enjoying their opportunities for 
 sight-seeing to the full. 
 
 July 26. We left our hotel at 11.30, and arrived 
 at the Hotel Belle- Yue in Zurich in the early after- 
 noon. Rides were taken in and around the city, and 
 the various places of interest were visited. Our stay 
 in Zurich was made exceedingly pleasant. We ob- 
 served on our arrival at the Hotel Belle- Vue a portrait 
 of General Grant in the reception-room, and this cir- 
 cumstance called forth many pleasant expressions. 
 The next morning, the ladies of our division prepared 
 a handsome wreath for the brow of the General, and 
 after the portrait had been thus adorned, the party 
 united in living expression to their patriotism in 
 "Columbia's the Gem of the Ocean," and in three 
 rousino" cheers for the American warrior and ex-Pres- 
 ident. Further cheers were given for the Republic of 
 Switzerland, and for the Hotel Belle-Vue. 
 
 July 27. We took the two o'clock train for 
 Lucerne. On the way we were met by a courier from 
 the Hotel Schwanen, bearing letters and papers for 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 579 
 
 members of the American party, and also with the 
 assignments of our rooms, so that no delay ensued 
 when we reached Lucerne. The highly-prized mes- 
 sages from home were distributed through the train 
 by our efficient conductor, Mr. Limozin. In the 
 afternoon we visited the Lion of Lucerne, the Glacial 
 Garden, and attended the grand organ concert given 
 for our benefit at the Stiftskirche. The inscription 
 which is cast upon the large bell of this church is 
 worth transcribing. It is as follows : " Vivos voco, 
 mortuos plango, fulgura prango " (I call the living, 
 bewail the dead, disperse the storms). 
 
 Sunday, July 28. Eeligious services were held 
 by the American party in one of the parlors of the 
 hotel. 
 
 July 29. We. left Lucerne at eleven o'clock, 
 A. m., by steamer for Yitznau, and from thence went 
 by the mountain railway up the Rigi, arriving at the 
 Eigi-Kulm Hotel about half-past three in the after- 
 noon. 
 
 July 30. The morning found the mountain-top 
 covered by clouds, and Old Sol did not put in an 
 appearance. The Alpine horn was prompt, the people 
 were prompt, but the sun hid his face, and our disap- 
 pointment was complete. We commenced the de- 
 scent at seven o'clock, and by steamer from Yitznau 
 returned to Lucerne, where we changed to another 
 boat bound for Alpnach, where we arrived shortly 
 
580 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 after noon. At Alpnach we found coaches in waiting, 
 and soon we were on our way over the Brunig Pass 
 to Bricnz. We stopped at Sarnen for lunch, and then 
 continued our journey in a rain-storm. While on the 
 road we met the fourth division, headed by Mr. Bruce. 
 A few hasty recognitions and salutations were all that 
 time and the inclement weather would permit. We 
 arrived at Bricnz at six o'clock in the evening, and we 
 immediately took the steamer for the foot of the 
 Gicssbach Falls, where we arrived soon after. 
 
 July 31. We took the steamer to Bonigen, and 
 from thence proceeded by rail to Interlaken, where 
 we found pleasant quarters at the "Hotel Victoria." 
 Here Dr. Tourjee's division, which had established 
 itself at the neighboring Hotel Kitschard, was met, 
 and a pleasant evening was passed. in comparing notes 
 of travel. 
 
 August 1. This day was spent at Interlaken and 
 in its vicinity, nearly every member of the party 
 making the pleasant excursion to Grindelwald. 
 
 August 2. We left Interlaken at 12.30, p. M., by 
 train to Lake Thun, which we crossed by steamer, 
 and then proceeded by rail to Bern. The bears and 
 the mechanical clock received due attention ; and a few 
 of our number attended the Swiss Congress, which 
 chanced to be in session. At the time of our visit, 
 the question under consideration was the proposition 
 to make further appropriations for the completion of 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WOKLD. 581 
 
 the St. Gothard Tunnel. Our headquarters were at 
 the Hotel Belle- Yue. In the evening, an organ con- 
 cert was given at the cathedral. 
 
 August 3. "We left Bern at two o'clock, p. m. , and 
 arrived at the quaint old town of Fribourg in due 
 season, and proceeded to the beautifully located Hotel 
 Zahringen. 
 
 Sunday, August 4. A delightfully pleasant clay, 
 and many an American might have been seen strolling 
 about at leisure in and around the city. Religious 
 services were held in the parlors of our hotel during 
 the afternoon, Rev. John W.. Ray, of Lake City, 
 Minnesota, officiating. A concert was given on the 
 magnificent organ at the cathedral in the evening. 
 
 August 5. Leaving Fribourg at half-past seven 
 o'clock in the morning, we reached Lausanne about 
 half-past ten. A short stay only was made at this 
 place, and at three o'clock we took a steamer for 
 Geneva, where we arrived about six o'clock in the 
 evening. But for the incessant rain, this part of the 
 journey would have been delightful. At Geneva, our 
 headquarters were established at the Hotel du Lac. 
 
 August 6. The day was accompanied by rain, but 
 the sights of Geneva and its neighborhood were gen- 
 erally inspected, and in the evening an organ concert 
 at the cathedral was the centre of attraction. 
 
 August 7. At half-past three o'clock, p. m., we 
 
582 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 took our farewell of the City of Watches, and the 
 long night-ride to Paris was before us. 
 
 August 8. We reached Paris about seven o'clock, 
 A. m., and within an hour were comfortably quar- 
 tered in the Hotel Bedford. This and the subse- 
 quent days of our stay in Paris were well occupied in 
 a grand round of sight-seeing. The Exposition, of 
 course, came in for a good share of attention ; and so 
 did the Louvre, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the 
 Hotel des Invalides, the Pantheon, the Palace of the 
 Luxembourg, &c, whilst many of the party also 
 visited Versailles, St. Cloud, and other places in the 
 vicinity of the beautiful city. 
 
 On the evening of Monday, August 12th, a meeting 
 of the members of the division was held in the pri- 
 vate dining-rooms of the Hotel Bedford, Rev. John 
 W. Ray, of Minnesota, acting as chairman, and Mr. 
 E. Emory Johnson, of Connecticut, as secretary. On 
 motion of Mr. Johnson, resolutions were passed con- 
 gratulating Dr. Tourjee upon the success of the excur- 
 sion, and commending Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son, 
 Messrs. Cook, Son & Jenkins, and the conductor of 
 the party, Mr. Limozin, for the admirable manner in 
 which its details had been carried out. 
 
 August 13. To-day our party bade adieu to Paris, 
 and at nine o'clock we were again on the rail bound 
 for London via Dieppe and Newhaven. Reaching 
 Dieppe about two in the afternoon we at once took 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 583 
 
 the steamer "Paris" for Newhaven. The Channel 
 was very rough, and nearly every individual on board 
 was a sufferer from that fearful affliction, " mal de 
 .mer." Reaching Newhaven about nine o'clock in the 
 evening, in a severe rain-storm, we immediately took 
 a train for London, reaching the Midland Grand Hotel 
 about one o'clock on the morning of Wednesday, 
 August 14. 
 
584 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE THIRD DIVISION. 
 
 Notes of the Journey from London over the Continent, and back to 
 England — Interesting Celebrations at Brussels — Gilmore's 
 Band at Cologne — Saluting tbe Sirens of the Rhine — Glorious 
 Scenes on the Rigi, &c. 
 
 The Third Division of the Tourjee party, or the 
 " Second Swiss," as it was termed by Messrs. Cook & 
 Son, came into separate existence on the afternoon of 
 Jnly 17. It was the last division to leave London, 
 and was to move to Paris via Belgium, the Rhine, and 
 Switzerland, thus following the steps of the First 
 and Second Sections, but reversing the order of march 
 pursued by the Fourth and Fifth. Mr. Giustiniani was 
 assigned as our conductor, and led us forth from 
 London by an evening train on the date named. At 
 10.40 we reached Sheerness, and went on board the 
 Flushing steamer for the passage across the North 
 Sea. The waters off Queenboro' Pier, on that par- 
 ticular night, must have been charged anew with 
 phosphorescent life, for as the paddle-wheels surged 
 us out to sea, the whole mass of wave and foam seemed 
 blazing and quivering with pallid fire. The night was 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 585 
 
 fascinatingly clear and still, and many of the party 
 lingered till long into the small hours of the night, 
 watching the light-ships, — mile-stones on the sea, — 
 and the silent vessels as they crossed the moon's 
 wake. 
 
 Next morning found us at the mouth of the Schelde, 
 where the red roofs of Flushing made us a Dutch wel- 
 come, and the wind-mills, with stately grace, made 
 their rotary salaams after their own fashion. We 
 landed at Flushing, and at once took the cars for Ant- 
 werp, having an amusing view of this section of Hol- 
 land, — a quaint land, where, in the rural communi- 
 ties, the old national oddities have not worn off, as 
 they have in the great cities. 
 
 The weather was warm, but clear and dry, and we 
 considered it even cool, when we read of the frightful 
 heated term then being endured by our friends in the 
 United States. We spent the 18th and part of the 
 19th in Antwerp, and what was not seen by some one 
 of the party could not have been worth looking for. 
 Across the record of our visit to Antwerp might Avell 
 be inscribed the one word — Rubens. 
 
 Friday night found us in Brussels, where we re- 
 mained until Monday morning, thus fortunately in- 
 cluding in our visit the day on which two important 
 anniversaries were celebrated, — the one being the 
 King's birthday, and the other the annual commemo- 
 ration of the shedding of blood by the holy wafers, 
 
586 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 when cut by the knives of the Jews, hi the by-gone 
 days of ecclesiastical miracles. The clay was Sunday, 
 and most of the party attended High Mass at the 
 Church of Ste. Gudule, having the opportunity of 
 seeing his Belgic Majesty, Kingf Leopold II., on his 
 natal day, in addition to the pageantry of the service. 
 During the afternoon bands paraded the gayly-dceo- 
 rated streets, and parties of bare-legged girls danced 
 and postured with rude grace in front of the proces- 
 sions, much to the astonishment of the Americans. 
 Many members of the division spent the latter part of 
 day driving in the Bois de Chambre, which is a charm- 
 ing and indispensable addition to this little Paris, and 
 returned to stroll, until late, in the crowded streets, 
 which blazed with illuminations and fireworks. 
 
 Monday we travelled direct to Cologne, having an 
 extremely warm and dusty ride, but were not too much 
 fatigued to do justice to the city and its sights on our 
 arrival, or to gather in our store of hearty enthusiasm 
 for the morrow, when we saw the swift Rhine and the 
 shadowy outlines of the Drachenfels rising afar. In 
 addition to the marvellous cathedral, and the famous 
 Golgotha, where the remains of the eleven thousand 
 virgins are still preserved, Cologne, the night we were 
 there, presented an additional attraction; viz., Gil- 
 more, the great American musical leader, and his band. 
 Many of the party nocked to pay their respects to him, 
 while a minority of the division spent the evening on 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 587 
 
 the bridge of boats, charmed by distant music and the 
 swift swirling waters of the river. 
 
 Perhaps most of the members of the division had 
 looked forward to Tuesday, July 23d, with more 
 eager expectation than to any other one day of their 
 excursion ; and certainly if they enjoyed the Rhine as 
 it should be enjoyed, they were not disappointed. 
 The weather, doubtful at sunrise, turned out warm, 
 and a silvery haze gave a peculiar softness to the land- 
 scape. Each in turn of the objects of interest passed, 
 was identified, and invariably sketched, by some one 
 of the many "artists" on board. As we passed the 
 Lurlei, the echoes of the grim rocks were awakened 
 by Mendelssohn's well-known song, until the fabled 
 siren, and all her train, seemed to answer the notes 
 sounded in her praise. The singing was under the 
 direction of Mr. Carl Zerrahn, whose tuneful forces 
 included some members of our own party, together 
 with a few of the other passengers. The song ceased, 
 and the rain descended ; and so did the ladies — to the 
 cabin — to return only at evening, when the last hour 
 of the sail passed in the twilight. 
 
 From Biebrich the party drove to Wiesbaden. The 
 charms of this famous German watering-place were 
 scanned on the succeeding morning, and the party 
 then pushed on to Frankfort-on-the-Main. After 
 viewing the interesting sights of this old town, we 
 continued our trip to Heidelberg in the "first-class ,y 
 
588 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 railway carriges we invariably occupied. These fre- 
 quent journeys by rail, so dreaded by some, were 
 greatly enjoyed by the younger members of the party, 
 who quickly crystalized into congenial little parties of 
 six or eight. We spent Thursday, July 25th, in 
 enjoying Heidelberg. The castle was, of course, the 
 chief attraction, and no part of it from deepest dun- 
 geon or vaulted passage, to highest tower or crum- 
 bling battlement, was unexplored. 
 
 Friday we again advanced, this time to Baden- 
 Baden, a spot made memorable, not only by visits to 
 its various objects of interest, including the Trinkhalle, 
 the Conversationshaus, and the ancient Schloss, but 
 also by a parliamentary debate upon the question of 
 visiting Strassburg. There was a division of opinion 
 as to the advisability of breaking the journey to 
 Schaffhausen, but Strassburg finally carried the day. 
 To Strassburg we accordingly went, and after viewing 
 the famous cathedral, the wonderful clock, and, of 
 course, the storks' nests, we sped on to Schaffhausen. 
 
 No day in the entire trip was sweeter, and fuller of 
 quiet enjoyment, than the Sabbath at the Falls of the 
 Rhine. Rev. Mr. Coster of our party, officiated dur- 
 ing the Episcopal morning service, while the after- 
 noon found the fields, woods, and pleasant country 
 roads, full of stragglers from the hotel, exploring the 
 falls, climbing the hills from which the first faint 
 glimpses of the Alps were gained, or burdening them- 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 589 
 
 selves with mellow-tinted wheat, blazing poppies, and 
 the other gay blossoms which enriched the landscape 
 with their bright coloring. 
 
 Monday morning we crossed the Rhine, and travelled 
 down to Zurich. The little row-boats were one of 
 the special delights here, as at Lucerne, Ouchy, and 
 Geneva, and toward evening, when most of the 
 party had made their sight-seeing round of the town, 
 the lake was thickly studded by the little craft manned 
 by real Yankee crews. Some of the young ladies of 
 the party, here displayed a proficiency in handling the 
 oars, which was quite noteworthy. If Zurich pleased 
 us, Lucerne fairly bewitched us. We remained here 
 from Tuesday afternoon till Friday noon, deducting 
 the time taken by our trip to the Rigi. The first 
 event was the arrival of the Fourth Division, from 
 Giessbach, bringing news of the First and Second, and 
 a glowing account of the territory which they had 
 already traversed. Both at Zurich and at Lucerne, 
 most of the members of our division took long steamer 
 trips on the lake. At Lucerne, the organ concerts 
 drew large and appreciative audiences. Thursday 
 morning, at breakfast, the members of the Fourth 
 Division made an early appearance, having come down 
 from the Rigi, en route to Zurich, They reported a 
 magnificent sunrise, and promised us a good day. At 
 noon, we set sail for Vitznau, whence the railway 
 begins its ascent. Our eyes were anxiously fixed on 
 
590 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Mont Pilatus, and great was the relief when his cloud- 
 drapery was pronounced to be highly favorable for 
 really fine weather. He kept his word well, until just 
 as we neared the Bigi-Kulm, when, from an apparently 
 perfectly clear sky, a thin and chilling cloud com- 
 pletely blotted out the lower world. This vexatious 
 curtain remained lowered until fi.ve o'clock, p. m , 
 when it vanished as suddenly as it had appeared. 
 Meanwhile, the agile members of the party had not 
 been idle. Most of them could show bewildering 
 bunches of the Alpen-rose and forget-me-nots, while 
 one enthusiastic botanist produced specimens of fifty- 
 five undeniably distinc.t species of flowers, which he 
 had gathered on the precipitous declivities on the north 
 side of the peak, within an area of an acre. The sunset 
 was nearly perfect, and next morning, after a night of 
 sleep, such as one only gets in such a pure, cool 
 atmosphere, we were on hand to see a sunrise of 
 unrivalled clearness. Nothing could have been desired 
 to make this scene more delightful. 
 
 From the Rigi, we returned to Lucerne, but resumed 
 our journey at noon, and landing at Alpnach, took 
 carriages for Brienz, through the Brunig Pass. Dur- 
 ing this long but glorious ride, we were constantly 
 favored with views so bewitching, that we were thank- 
 ful that we had not seen them earlier in our trip, for 
 they would have dwarfed everything else. Early in 
 this drive, we met the carriages containing the Fifth 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 591 
 
 Division. As we embarked at Brienz on the steamer, 
 a heavy shower broke upon us, and consequently our 
 reception at Giessbach was decidedly moist, though 
 by nine o'clock, when the cataract was illuminated, 
 the rain had ceased falling. The next day opened 
 badly, for a fine, penetrating drizzle rendered an 
 exploration of the fall a matter of doubtful prudence ; 
 but it began to clear soon after we started on our way 
 to Interlaken, and on our arrival at that Saratoga of 
 Switzerland, we had a clearing sky to welcome us. 
 Just before sunset, the clouds which had veiled the 
 fair Jungfrau's face were tossed aside, and with a 
 rosy blush she disclosed her loveliest charms. 
 
 Saturday evening there was a ?f hop " at our hotel, 
 the Victoria ; and on the succeeding day excursions 
 were made to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. Most 
 of the party chartered conveyances of some sort for 
 these trips, but seven of the excursionists, including 
 three ladies, chose to walk out to the Fall of the 
 Staubbach, at Lauterbrunnen, and back, a distance of 
 fifteen miles, thus experiencing some of the pleasures 
 of pedestrian exercise among the mountains. 
 
 From Interlaken we proceeded to Bern ; and from 
 thence, on the morning of August 6th, we went to 
 Fribourg, though not until many of the gentlemen 
 had attended a morning sitting of the Swiss Federal 
 Council, which assembles at the common-sense hour 
 of eight o'clock, a. m. The same evening we were 
 
592 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 favored with a free concert on the celebrated Friboursr 
 organ, this entertainment having been provided by 
 special arrangement. Our stay in Fribourg was not 
 marked by any great event beside the concert, but the 
 quiet little city was thoroughly explored, and no one 
 complained of being dull while in its picturesque 
 precincts. 
 
 "Wednesday morning we were off again, this time 
 by rail to Lausanne and the fair Ouchy ; and thence 
 by boat down the lake to Geneva. The weather was 
 perfect, and the trip was much enjoyed. As we 
 neared Geneva, a sharp look-out was kept for Mont 
 Blanc, but in vain, as it was not then to be seen. 
 Thursday evening we attended our second compli- 
 mentary organ concert, and had an evening of pleas- 
 ure not to be forgotten. As we returned from the 
 concert to the Hotel de la Metropole, on the Grand 
 Quay, we found the streets crowded with people 
 either walking or sitting at the refreshment tables, 
 while music of various kinds echoed through the 
 brilliantly lighted streets. But the view from our 
 windows, overlooking the Jardin Anglais and the har- 
 bor, was simply superb, for both garden and inner 
 basin were all ablaze with colored lights, and throngs 
 of people passed back and forth near the music-stands. 
 Fete nights like this, occur frequently during the 
 season. Although the weather had been fine during 
 our whole visit, yet provoking clouds kept close down 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 593 
 
 over Mont Blanc till Friday morning; but patient 
 waiters in this case were duly rewarded, for as soon 
 as the feeble light of day rendered objects visible, the 
 bristling line of the Mont Blanc peaks became clearly 
 discernible, resembling tongues of flame quivering 
 over the edge of the horizon. 
 
 The journey to Paris was truly a novelty. It was 
 our first night-trip in the cars, and although unat- 
 tended by any serious inconveniences, it was never- 
 theless to be remembered not altogether with pleasure. 
 We reached Paris in the morning and proceeded to 
 the Hotel Bedford. Probably no two members of our 
 party had the same experience during the time of our 
 stay in that fascinating city ; and no account could be 
 given of the movements of any one, which would 
 represent, or begin to illustrate, the movements of 
 all. All Paris was traversed and explored. Our 
 forces were increased by the Second Division, which 
 had arrived before us, and the excusions about the 
 city, to Versailles, &c, were enjoyed by goodly num- 
 bers from each body. 
 
 At length the time came for our departure from 
 the gay city, but our numbers were depleted to some 
 extent, as some were to remain a longer time. Tak- 
 ing the route via Kouen, Dieppe, and Newhaven, we 
 returned to London, reaching the British metropolis 
 on the night of August 15th. 
 
594 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE FOURTH DIVISION. 
 
 Notes of the Continental Journey — Amusing Incidents — Grand 
 Illumination by the Students at Heidelberg — Two Days on the 
 Rhine — Visits to Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein — The Return 
 to England, &c. 
 
 On our arrival at London, the Fourth Section be- 
 came a tangible entity, and, as such, we were domiciled 
 at the Terminus, with all London, the Thames and its 
 bridges between us and the other sections. This re- 
 moteness may have had its advantages, but they were 
 evidently in seclusion, or delusion. Brief was our 
 stay at the hotel, where we enjoyed the fewest meals 
 in the greatest time of any place on the tour, and 
 where the mien of the waiters reminded one of the 
 address on the princely dog's collar : — 
 
 " I am his highness' dog at Kew ; 
 Pray, tell me, sir, whose dog are you ? " 
 
 So we packed our selected effects, turned our backs 
 upon Parliament, Westminster, St. Paul's, and the 
 new wonder, — the Needle, — and, led by our courte- 
 ous conductor, Mr. Paul S. Sostino, — 
 
 " We went to saunter Europe through, 
 To gather culture rare and true." 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 595 
 
 Oh, that the tongue could utter the thoughts that 
 arose, the emotions that throbbed among our party at 
 the first gaze upon the Channel, whose fame is world- 
 wide, and whose gentle power has brought, with no 
 uncertain sound, true inwardness to the surface. Such 
 a sea, even the oldest inhabitant could not recall its 
 equal, — so calm, so "elegant," as the steamer glided 
 over it, " that e'en Palinurus nodded at the helm." An 
 hour ahead of time, we approached quaint old Dieppe by 
 the sea, with its time-worn houses and castle, its jovial 
 fishwomen, in their peculiar garb and natural volubil- 
 ity. Soon landing, and tickling the customs officer 
 with the corner of a small hat-box for the entire party, 
 we hastened to the train. 
 
 Paris reached, we were soon under the care of M. 
 Keignard, of the celebrated family of wine-merchants, 
 at his hotel, the "Bedford." Here we spent a week 
 among the privileged of all Christendom, and other 
 sections too numerous for mention, doing the Exposi- 
 tion, seeing the sights, and, like other victims, buying 
 at Paris prices adapted to American purses. 
 
 We pause here only to heave a mental sigh over the 
 pleasant days spent at Versailles, St. Cloud, Sevres, 
 and our afternoon fete with Mr. Thomas Cook, — and 
 then face the vision that haunts us still, of that thirteen 
 hours' ride, by "night service," to Geneva. But why 
 prolong the ride ? We reached the boundary, beheld 
 the Jura Alps, washed our faces, greeted the bright 
 
596 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 sun tipping the mountain-tops, combed our hair, drank 
 in the inspiration of the morning, brushed our clothes, 
 and hied to Geneva, feeling that, after all, our ride 
 
 " Was but an awful instrument, 
 Iu working out a pure intent." 
 
 Some one has said, that if you have a reputation for 
 early rising, you may lie abed till noon ; so it seemed 
 with Mont Blanc, who appeared very late in the morn- 
 ing with his night-dress on. He may have been out 
 of sorts, for all day he appeared cloudy and distant, so 
 that no one could see him ; but, next morning, he rose 
 at four o'clock with a clear head, and a face wreathed 
 in smiles of sunshine at our early welcome, apparently 
 sharing the enthusiasm of one member of our party, 
 who saw him to bed safely, walked the floor during 
 the "wee hours" so as to be-in at the waking, and 
 aroused the establishment, from scullion to owner, 
 with rappings at all doors, to " Get right up, and see 
 the elegant sight ! " As the grandeur of his coming 
 filled our expectant moments, — 
 
 " We felt like some watcher of the skies, 
 When a new planet swims into his ken." 
 
 And when the mountain stood forth in all the glory 
 of that morning sun, we saw that, truly — 
 
 " Mont Blanc is Monarch of Mountains ; 
 They crowned him long ago 
 On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds, 
 With a diadem of snow." 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 597 
 
 It cost an effort to leave at Geneva the Fifth Divi- 
 sion, which had so conscientiously and continually 
 looked to us for example, enthusiasm, and enlighten- 
 ment ; but few and sad were our parting words, for 
 we promptly responded to the unceasing injunction of 
 the ever visrilant and attentive Sostino, — "Now, 
 ladies and gentlemen, have your leetle baggages 
 ready," and amid congratulations from earth, and 
 weeping from the heavens, we steamed up the lake to 
 Ouchy. An ascent by inclined railway brought us 
 from Ouchy to Lausanne, whence we sped to quaint, 
 picturesque Fribourg, with its great bridges, curious 
 walls, towers, streets, and more curious population, 
 definitely separated, street by street, into French and 
 German, the whole impressing one tliat Fribourg was 
 "von ov dot olden time." On listening to another of 
 Dr. Tourjee's prearranged concerts on the grand 
 organ of the great cathedral, a second " storm " burst 
 upon us, drenching us with musical rain, whisking us 
 with musical wind, and scaring us with musical thun- 
 der and lightning, while ever and anon the lurid 
 flashes of the tallow dips, three in number, on the 
 huge columns, fitly prepared us for the musical clear- 
 ing off in sunshine and bird songs. 
 
 Old Bern was briefly honored by our presence ; the 
 bear-pits received our lavish bestowals of carrots ; 
 galleries, stores, houses, fountains, cathedral and 
 clock demanded our admiring gaze, and our ears again 
 
598 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 feasted upon another Tourjee Concert, until that same 
 "storm" broke upon us, — all "Probs" to the contrary, 
 — suggesting the expediency of a tonalic lightning- 
 rod for future Musical Cyclones. 
 
 We got "our leetle baggages ready now," and 
 flitted by rail and lake to beautiful Interlaken, where 
 we were welcomed by the loveliest of the lovely, — the 
 Jungfrau. A smiling Sabbath morning bade the 
 hopes, joys, and spirits of all to rise, gaze, admire, 
 and wonder, which we proceeded to do. Some went 
 to the Staubbach and Lauterbrunnen, while others 
 took carriages to the celebrated glaciers of the Grindel- 
 wald, arriving at the hotel in time to get, for each 
 who so desired, a Pegasus to add new tortures to an 
 already tortuous- path to the glacier. We can see 
 them now, each equestrienne bravely striving to 
 encourage her lagging, stumbling beast, or maintain- 
 ing her dignity by mane strength, if not kindly offer- 
 ing a ride to some weary one of the tramp retinue. 
 We reached the glacier, we mounted it, we entered 
 the grotto, and, with the aid of a fine old German 
 gentleman, made the icy cavern ring with "Praise 
 God " and " My Country, 'tis of Thee." 
 
 The "Italian" division was at Interlaken, and with 
 its members we shared a grand re-union, tendered by 
 mine host of the Victoria, in the spacious saloon, 
 where with merry music and the dance, we whiled 
 the few brief hours ere we parted. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 599 
 
 O'er Lake Brienz we sweetly glide, to rest at 
 Giessbach ; to rest after climbing vertically, circum- 
 ambiently, to the grand hotel fronting the falls, whose 
 nightly illuminations have become one of the sights of 
 Europe. Eecrossing the lake on the morrow, we 
 took our famous ride over the Brunig Pass to Alpnach, 
 meeting on the way the second section. A pleasant 
 ride on the Lake of the Four Cantons brought us to 
 Lucerne, where we did ample justice to all lions, 
 shops, and the organ. Another Tourjee concert at 
 the cathedral, and another " storm ! " 
 
 We ascended the Rigi by rail in time to behold a 
 gorgeous sunset, — harbinger of a glorious dawn on 
 the morrow. To describe an evening at that high 
 altitude with such low temperature, causes a retro- 
 spective shiver while we write, and our ink freezes to 
 our nibs. At an early hour we heard the expected 
 horn, and obeyed with all the alacrity darkness would 
 permit, despite the stubbornness of our clothes that 
 would not go on right, and the hair-pins we could not 
 find just where we put them the night before. Just 
 as we were about to rush en dishabille to the summit 
 to see the great sight, we looked at our watches to 
 find ourselves an hour ahead of time, while the indi- 
 vidual who blew that bogus horn lay giggling " in his 
 little bed," at our sold condition. But when the 
 genuine hornist sounded, we quickly scrambled to out- 
 places, where, with excited frigidity, we awaited the 
 
600 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 glorious scene. With us was a band of Swiss stu-* 
 dents, bringing flags and songs to greet the awakening 
 king. Slowly rolled away the curtain of night, dis- 
 closing the Bernese Alps, the Rossberg, and old Pila- 
 tus jet sleeping, clothed in garments of white. The 
 grandeur and impressiveness of the scene can never 
 be forgotten. As peak followed peak into the glow- 
 ing brightness of the rising sun, then range after 
 range brought its grand proportions into view, while 
 the clouds merged into magnificent sun-bursts, the 
 whole seemed to rise in adoration toward the King of 
 kings and Lord of lords. It was Handel's great 
 " Hallelujah Chorus," where the fugue, with part fol- 
 lowing part in increasing harmonious grandeur, pro- 
 claims, "And He shall reign forever, Hallelujah! 
 Hallelujah!" Truly our hearts felt the "Praise God 
 from whom all blessings flow," that welled forth on 
 that morning. 
 
 From Lucerne to Zurich, thence to Schaffhausen, 
 where we stared the falls out of countenance. Strass- 
 burg, its famous cathedral and clock, its storks, its 
 marks of the fierce bombardment, all were viewed 
 with a critic's eye, and paid for accordingly. Baden- 
 Baden and its society, its attractiveness without and 
 within, next claimed our attention. Of course our 
 party partook of those delicious draughts of nectar 
 pure at the Trinkhalle, but never mortal told of the 
 change that came o'er the spirit of their dream as that 
 
TIIKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 601 
 
 water gurgled down. The Cursaal, too, received our 
 fair share of amazement. The benign German em- 
 press and beautiful princess called forth our admira- 
 tion, heightened by a sincere respect, as they, with 
 common worshippers, knelt down before one common 
 altar at the English chapel. 
 
 Heidelberg next embraced our favored few. Here 
 we found the city alive with preparations by the stu- 
 dents for their anniversary ; so to give character to 
 the occasion, we mingled with the many who visited 
 that castle of castles, where the exercises were held. 
 Like other tourists we visited every accessible nook 
 and corner from top-stone to dungeon, and unlike 
 other tourists we received an informal ovation from the 
 students, who, in the midst of their hilarity, recogniz- 
 ing the party as Americans, rose en masse and toasted 
 the ladies, leaving their colors with us as mementoes. 
 We were fortunate in being present at the grand 
 annual illumination of the castle, a most magnificent 
 pyrotechnic display from river, woods, and ivy-clad 
 wall. Many events marked us for their own, espe- 
 cially one fearful to contemplate : three of our noblest 
 women locked in a dark dungeon of the castle, and 
 found only by chance, — a gentleman being drawn 
 thither by the repentant groans issuing through the 
 gratings. 
 
 Old Frankfort, with its fine buildings and beautiful 
 drives, favorably impressed us ; and feeling that the 
 
602 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 impression would not grow on longer acquaintance we 
 excused our brevity, graciously withdrew, and fol- 
 lowed our " leetle bas^a^es " to Wiesbaden. Here we 
 
 DO O 
 
 enjoyed a rest, partook of the delicious waters until 
 our facial expression hinted that 
 
 m 
 
 " Each on honey-dew hath fed, 
 And drunk the milk of Paradise." 
 
 We mingled with gay throngs, visited all the places 
 of interest, and before leaving had the pleasure of 
 seeing the grand military-pyrotechnic-musical spec- 
 tacle of the battle of Worth. From Wiesbaden, 
 through a fine boulevard, we rode to Biebrich, where 
 we took passage on a Rhine steamer. 
 
 Such a day ! We are well aware that the Ehine 
 has been fully " written up " by all the forty-two cor- 
 respondents of the other divisions, who, on account 
 of the inclemency of the weather, were compelled to 
 stay in the cabin, with "nothing else to do." We 
 were better employed in viewing its beauties. We 
 were to remain one day at Coblenz, and therefore had 
 two days on the Rhine, with ample opportunity to 
 visit Stolzenfels, Ehrenbreitstein, Forts Alexander and 
 Constantine, the Summer Palace of the Empress, 
 together with all the objects of interest in and about 
 Coblenz. We reached Coblenz after a most charming 
 trip. Here we found a city having habitation and a 
 name since 13 b. c. It is in the form of a triangle, 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 603 
 
 at the junction of the Rhine and the Moselle. Di- 
 rectly opposite, rising nearly four hundred feet above 
 the river, stands that grim "Watch on the Ehine," — 
 
 " Ehrenbreitstein with her shattered wall, 
 
 Black with the miner's blast upon her height, 
 Yet shows of what she was when shot and ball 
 Rebounding lightly on her strength did light." 
 
 We spent an afternoon in the fortress, where we 
 were courteously received by a sergeant, and con- 
 ducted through all parts accessible to visitors. It 
 seems almost impregnable ; indeed, has proved itself 
 so, having been taken only twice since 1688, — once 
 by stratagem, and once through fear of famine. It 
 mounts over four hundred guns, and has ten years' 
 subsistence for ten thousand men. Yast sums of 
 money are yearly expended upon it, until it has be- 
 come one or* the strongest fortresses in the world. 
 On our descent from the "bomb proof," the attendant 
 carefully locked the great door, and proceeded to 
 show us some other mysterious quarter, when our 
 ears were startled by a piercing cry. On looking 
 back, we discovered that one of the lady members of 
 our party was a prisoner. To the rescue flew our 
 gallant sergeant ; open swung the great door, to the 
 roof climbed he, and the captive was released. Stol- 
 zenfels and other points received due attention, and 
 the regiments, bands, orchestras, and church services 
 contributed much of interest, particularly a children's 
 
604 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 morning Mass, in which we heard over six hundred 
 young voices in full harmony. 
 
 Another beautiful day's journey on the Khine 
 brought us to Cologne in time to take a preliminary 
 glance at the city, as well as a premonitory sniff at 
 the seventy odd classified smells, leaving many others 
 too odoriferous for mention. Cologne has a cathedral 
 which has been six hundred years building, and — like 
 a great many professing Christians — while pointing 
 towards heaven, is mouldering at the base. It must be 
 the effluvia that rots the stone, despite the location of 
 the edifice amid a dozen manufactories, each the "only 
 genuine gold medal, Widow Farina Cologne." The 
 bones of St. Ursula, and her eleven thousand virginal 
 host, drew well upon the credulity and sympathy of 
 our party, while many admitted it "were better to 
 shine in more substantial honors." Shaking the odor 
 from our garments, we sped to Brussels, to spend a 
 few remaining hours and francs in viewing and buying 
 among all the curiosities and products of that beautiful 
 city. 
 
 Antwerp was the last, though hot the least, to be 
 gladdened by our presence. Here we visited every- 
 thing, and almost everybody, even to the quaintly- 
 dressed dames with coal-scuttle bonnets and honest 
 faces, and even to the canines, which at Brussels and 
 at Antwerp made the market-places hideous by their 
 yelps and angry howling, in a way comparable only to 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 60 {> 
 
 the spasmodic sighs of our party on the day of its 
 departure for Flushing, en route for England. That 
 voyage ! The realization of dreaded ills ; the boun- 
 teous supper, that refused to stay when "put where 
 it would do the most good ! " Ah, well, — 
 
 " 'Tis better to have supped and lost 
 Than never to have supped at all." 
 
 Safely landed on England's mighty strand, what 
 was left of our feeble natures assured the inspectors 
 of customs that we held nothing dutiable ; we had 
 given up all that we had of anything. Again, and for 
 the last time, "our leetle barrages" and their owners 
 
 7 CO o 
 
 were packed for London, and away we steamed, each 
 eye on the alert for a final castle or cathedral, until 
 London was reached, our cab entered, and we were 
 wheeling to the "Midland Grand," where we hoped to 
 find some — 
 
 11 Eyes that would mark 
 ■ Our coming, and look brighter when we came." 
 
 We refer not to the waiters or the porters, but to the 
 returning hosts of the Tourjeean Party, in which we 
 were at once absorbed, and as suddenly lost our afore- 
 time entity. 
 
 At the hotel, previous to our departure for home, 
 the Fourth Section unanimously passed resolutions 
 recognizing the faithful and eificient services of Mr. 
 Paulos S. Sostino, who had proved himself all that 
 could be desired as a continental conductor. 
 
606 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 CHAPTER XYII. 
 
 THE "CIRCASSIA" PARTY. 
 
 The Advance-Guard of the American Invaders 
 
 Scotland, England, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and France 
 — Another Section Visits Italy. 
 
 The main body of Dr. Tourjee's excursion party 
 sailed from America on the steamship "Devonia," June 
 29th, as already related. An advance party, of nearly 
 fifty persons, left a week earlier, however, in the 
 steamship " Circassia," and journeyed through Europe, 
 independently of the others. The voyage across the 
 ocean was pleasant, and it was enlivened by entertain- 
 ments of various kinds, and by a mock court. Land- 
 ing in Scotland, the party first visited Glasgow, stop- 
 ping at the Cockburn Hotel. A tour was made 
 through Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, and the Tros- 
 achs, July 3d, and the travellers then paid their re- 
 spects to Edinburgh, visiting the various places of 
 interest in that charming city. 
 
 Leaving Edinburgh by a special train, the party 
 proceeded to Melrose, where a halt was made for an 
 inspection of the ruins of the famous old abbey, and 
 also for a visit to Abbotsford. Resuming the. rail- 
 way journey, the party proceeded to London, where 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 607 
 
 it was divided into two sections, one for the Swiss 
 tour, and the other for a more extended journey 
 through Italy, as well as over the route pursued by the 
 other. 
 
 The " Swiss " section left London Monday evening, 
 July 8th, via Harwich, and went to Antwerp, where 
 the following day was spent. Brussels and Cologne 
 next claimed attention, and then came the passage of 
 the Rhine, and visits, successively, to Wiesbaden, 
 Prankfort-on-the-Main, and Heidelberg. In the lat- 
 ter city a Sabbath was passed. Baden-Baden was 
 visited, and the party then proceeded to Switzerland 
 via Schaffhausen and the Falls of the Rhine. Lucerne 
 and the Rigi were the next objective points, and from 
 Alpnach the travellers crossed the Brunig Pass to 
 Brienz, and sailed across the Lake of Brienz to the 
 Falls of the Giessbach. 
 
 Sunday, July 21st, was passed at Interlaken, and 
 from that place the journey was continued to Thun and 
 Bern. Fribourg, Lausanne, and Geneva were suc- 
 cessively visited, and Sunday, July 28th, was passed in 
 the latter city. On the following day the travellers 
 took the long railway-ride to Paris, leaving Geneva in 
 the. afternoon, and reaching Paris early next morning. 
 
 After an extended round of sight-seeing in Paris, 
 and an inspection of the Exposition, the division re- 
 turned to London via Rouen, Dieppe, and Newhaven, 
 to finish their round of visits to the objects of interest 
 
608 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 in the British metropolis. Nearly all the members of 
 this section returned to America a week earlier than 
 the other party. 
 
 The " Italian " wing of the " Circassia " party trav- 
 elled over the same route, through Belgium, German}'', 
 and Switzerland, that has been described, except that 
 a few of its members extended their journey to Cha- 
 mouni, going up to Martigny from Lake Leman, and 
 thence over the Tete Noire Pass. Proceeding to 
 Geneva by diligence, these travellers joined the main 
 body of the section, and the journey was then con- 
 tinued, in accordance with the previously arranged 
 itinerary, to Italy, via the Mont. Cenis Tunnel. The 
 route through Italy was, in all important particulars, 
 the same one that the " Italian " section of the " Devo- 
 nia" party took a week later, one or two places, how- 
 ever, being visited in a different order. For example : 
 Genoa was visited previous to Rome. Several days 
 were passed in the " Eternal City " in the companion- 
 ship of Mr. Shakespeare Wood, the distinguished arch- 
 aeologist. The art-galleries of Florence next claimed 
 attention, and some of the party went to Naples. Re- 
 turning northward, Venice, Milan, and Turin were, in 
 turn, visited, and from the latter city the party jour- 
 neyed by rail direct to Paris. A few days later, the 
 travellers reached London, and, after a brief sojourn in 
 that city, proceeded to Glasgow to take the steamer 
 for New York. 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 609 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 Once More in London — Supplementary Tours by Members of the 
 Party — Notes of a Yisit to Sorrento and the Blue Grotto of 
 Capri and of a Tour of Lakes Como and Lugano — A Pilgrimage 
 to the Holy Land — Setting Sail for Home — Moville — The 
 "Rolling Deep" — Entertainments on Shipboard — Benefit of 
 the Shipwrecked Mariners' Society — Congratulatory Resolu- 
 tions — Arrival at New York — The Custom-House Officers — 
 Dr. TourjeVs Christmas Greeting. 
 
 The preceding chapters have taken the various 
 divisions of our party through their wanderings over 
 the Continent, and back to London ; whilst Mr. 
 Lewis has chronicled some of his subsequent journey- 
 ing through. Ireland. But little remains to be told of 
 the experiences of the party as a whole, while in 
 Europe, although many interesting pages might he 
 furnished by individuals who remained abroad longer 
 than the assigned period of the excursion, to indulge 
 in further recreation and travel. Some, too, prolonged 
 their visit for the purpose of extending their studies 
 in the musical and other art schools of the Old 
 World. 
 
 Mr. Charles Smith, of Boston, Mass., who extended 
 his travels in Italy beyond the route pursued by the 
 
610 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 First, or " Italian " Division, has furnished me with 
 some interesting notes. In company with seventeen 
 other members of that division, he proceeded to 
 Naples, and, upon his return to the north of Italy, 
 visited the Italian lakes. As Mr. Lewis has already 
 given an account of a visit to Naples, Pompeii, and 
 Vesuvius, I quote from Mr. Smith's notes only so 
 far as they relate to a visit made to Sorrento, and 
 the Isle of Capri, and to his subsequent journeyings 
 about lakes Como and Lugano : — 
 
 August 16. Six of the party having left Naples on 
 their return to Rome, the remaining twelve spend the day in 
 a beautiful ride around the shores of the Bay of Naples. 
 We go by rail (one hour, eighteen miles) to Castellamare, 
 and from there to Sorrento, b}- carriages, along the shores 
 of 4he bay (one and' three-quarters hours, twelve miles) . 
 The ride was one of the most delightful of our whole trip. 
 The road is circuitous, and winds around the mountains, 
 and b}^ a bridge crosses a deep gorge. On the left are 
 mountains and valleys, with growing fruit, — olives, oranges, 
 and lemons, — in ever} r direction as far the eye can reach; 
 on the right the beautiful Bay of Naples and the distant 
 Mediterranean. At Sorrento, we take a sail-boat for the 
 Isle of Capri, where we visit the Blue Grotto. This is a 
 natural grotto which has an entrance at the water's edge, 
 just large enough for a small boat to enter. As the little 
 craft could take only four passengers at a time into the 
 grotto, three trips had to be made. After an entrance is 
 effected, the grotto enlarges. It extends several hundred 
 feet, and is fifty feet in height. The boat excursion, to and 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 611 
 
 from the island,' was exceedingly pleasant, and the scenery 
 at all times very beautiful. 
 
 After a leisurely survey of Naples and disentombed 
 Pompeii, and a visit to the crater of Mount Vesuvius, 
 the party returned to Rome, and, via Pisa, Gene-¥*^ 
 and Milan, proceeded to the lake district. 
 
 August 25. We arrived last evening at Como, which 
 lies at the southern extremity of the lake of Como. The 
 windows of our room at the hotel overlook the lake. The 
 view is exquisitely lovely, combining as it does the lake and 
 lofty mountains. Princes, nobles, and rich merchants have 
 lined the green shores of the lake with picturesque villas. 
 We see the beautiful greensward, the rose, the peach-blos- 
 som, the grape, and the pure white snow-field all in one 
 view. 
 
 August 26. After a two hours' sail on Lake Como, we 
 reach Bellaggio, which is situated on a promontory at the 
 junction of the two arms of the lake. Awaiting the con- 
 clusion of a thunder-storm, we ascend the lofty height and 
 enjoy the glorious scenes presented on either hand. Ex- 
 tended promenades and roads, in 'some places cut or tun- 
 nelled through the solid rock, wind around the cliffs. The 
 views upon all sides are most enchanting. 
 
 August 27. We cross the lake to Menaggio, on the 
 west bank of the lake, and from thence go by diligence to 
 Poiiezza, which lies at the upper extremity of the lake of 
 Lugano, and at the base* of a grand amphitheatre amid the 
 hills. The opposite shore is very steep, and almost in- 
 accessible rocks and wooded mountains rise from the 
 very edge of the lake, while their picturesque forms are 
 
612 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 reflected in the clear waters beneath. We go from Porlezza 
 to Lugano by steamer. The little towns we pass, which 
 are romantically situated amid forests of walnut and chest- 
 nut trees, are very interesting. The Lugano side of the 
 lake is Swiss, and the opposite shore Italian. 
 
 August 28. An hour's sail brings us from Lugano to 
 Porto in Italy. The scenery upon the lake is varied and 
 magnificent. The inlets and bays present a succession of 
 beautiful pictures. The stretches of rich green which line 
 their shores, are walled by lofty mountains, and the contrast 
 between cultivated and uncultivated nature may be traced 
 on all sides. A ride of one and a half hours by diligence 
 brings us from Porto to Varese, which is thirteen hundred 
 feet above the level of the sea, and within full view of the high 
 Alps, whose tops are clad with perpetual snow. Mont Rosa 
 towers above all the other peaks, and hides Mont Blanc. 
 The rising sun casts a roseate hue upon the line of peaks, 
 forty miles away, and the view at sunset is also very beauti- 
 ful. 
 
 Mr. Smith remained at Varese until September 6th, 
 when he started on his return homeward, via Turin, 
 Paris, and London. 
 
 A party was made up from the "Italian" Division 
 for the tour of Palestine. The adventures of these 
 travellers have been described in a series of very inter- 
 esting letters, written by Mrs. C. F. Springer, of 
 Anamosa, Iowa, and published in the "Anamosa 
 Eureka." We quote below one of these communica- 
 tions, which describes a part of the journey to Jeru- 
 salem : — 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 613 
 
 Tents, Sea op Galilee, Palestine, Asia. 
 
 Editors Eureka : — Our tarry at the Jordan was full of 
 interest. Lot, lifting up his eyes, beheld all the plain, that 
 it was well watered everywhere. (Gen. xiii. 10.) 
 
 After the forty } T ears' wanderings, the Israelites " crossed 
 over it on dry ground." (Joshua hi. 17.) This occurred 
 in the time of harvest, the beginning of April, when the 
 waters were at their highest, "for Jordan overfloweth all 
 his banks all the time of harvest." (Joshua iii. 15.) Jacob, 
 Gideon, Abner, David, and many others crossed this river, 
 and here came the two holy men, one of whom was so soon 
 to enter heaven. (2 Kings ii. 7.) 
 
 Elisha, returning from this wonderful farewell from his 
 translated friend, taking the mantle which had fallen from 
 his brother, smote the water and passed over on dry land. 
 (2 Kings ii. 13, 14.) 
 
 In these waters Naaman was cured of his leprosy (2 
 Kings v.) ; but all these events seem small compared to 
 the marvellous incidents recorded in the New Testament. 
 The baptisms given in Matt. iii. 5, 6, are noteworthy, and, 
 most sacred of all, is the memory of our Lord coming to 
 this place to receive the holy rite of John. (Matt. iii. 13- 
 17.) 
 
 At Easter, pilgrims numbering thousands, come here to 
 bathe, attaching great religious significance to the act. 
 
 The length of the river in a straight line is not more than 
 one hundred and twenty miles, but its meanderings are so 
 great as to change sixty miles to two hundred between 
 the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, while its width is from 
 eighty to one hundred and sixty feet. Ths banks are rich 
 in varied foliage and birds, find pleasant homes in these 
 beautiful trees. 
 
 The Jew, Christian, Ishmaelite, and Mohammedan alike 
 
614 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 cherish the stream as a place of hallowed memories, and I 
 "went down into and came up out of the Jordan" several 
 times, making sure of a sufficiently complete bath to satisfy 
 my most earnest Baptist friends, my first step being about 
 two feet down, for the water is quite muddy and very un- 
 like the clear water of the Dead Sea. Although I confess 
 to a great fear of going into the water, my zeal was equal 
 to the occasion. The gentlemen went in to bathe at the 
 place where " the Israelites crossed," but a young lady from 
 Penns3'lvania and nryself were satisfied with any locality of 
 the sacred river, and ascending the banks I gathered some 
 leaves from the water, while the friend remarked we were 
 quite as likely to be in the exact locality where the Israelites 
 crossed as our more confident friends. 
 
 An Arab tribe came with camels, &c, to cross the ford, 
 before we left. One hour's ride brings us to the Valley Of 
 Achor (Joshua vii. 24-26), and crossing the Brook Cherith 
 (1 Kings xvii. 1-7) where Elijah was fed by the ravens, 
 we enter Riha, the town being a mere heap of rubbish and 
 filth ; but this is the site of the ancient Gilgal and of modern 
 Jericho. 
 
 Here the twelve stones were set up (Joshua iv. 19, 20), 
 and the people celebrated their first Passover in the Prom- 
 ised Land. 
 
 A little farther on we arrive at the Fountain of Elisha, 
 where the brackish water was changed (2 Kings ii. 22), 
 and encamp for the night, after thirt}^-six miles in the sad- 
 dle. This fountain for three thousand five hundred years 
 has flowed on, being carried in aqueducts over a vast extent 
 of ground for irrigation in the days of the Romans. The 
 water is very clear but warm, but we bade farewell to ice in 
 Egypt, and only occasionally sigh for the cold wells of Iowa. 
 In this once luxuriant plain grew the balsam trees, whose 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 615 
 
 fruit cured instantaneously nearly all wounds, and which 
 Cleopatra transplanted to Heliopolis, Africa. We behold 
 the ruins of ancient Jericho, and this is the plain to which 
 Joshua sent the spies, while he and the children of Israel 
 encamped below, and we are not slow to believe that per- 
 haps some of these wonderful caves are the very ones where 
 the spies hid themselves after leaving Rahab's house. "And 
 lifting up his eyes he beheld them afar off," has a new sig- 
 nificance, as we can see from one mountain summit to another 
 so clearly. But trying to doze off in the cozy camp-bed, 
 thinking of the " seven times around Jericho," I am re- 
 minded I am only dust, for the sand-flies prevent all sleep, 
 being a much greater terror than fleas, and the morning finds 
 me but slightly refreshed. At five o'clock, a. m., we have 
 all finished breakfast, and are passing the ravines where the 
 ravens fed Elijah (a full moon making the morning brighter) , 
 and having our last view of the plains of Jericho and Jor- 
 dan. We are travelling over the very road of the lesson of 
 the Good Samaritan (Luke x. 30-38), and the feet of our 
 dear Lord trod this way from Jordan to Bethany, when he 
 went to raise Lazarus. Nothing is improved here — all 
 remains the same ; and we find the bridle-path so narrow and 
 steep, that a horse can scarcely stand ; in fact, one gentle- 
 man and his horse fell this morning on one of the ledges of 
 rock, but they were unhurt. 
 
 This road from Jericho to Jerusalem is considered the 
 most dangerous in Syria, but a fear has not crossed my 
 mind, though I was glad our guide required us to leave all 
 gold watches, rings, or any ornaments of value, with our 
 purses, in care o£ the very gentlemanly proprietor of the 
 hotel at Jerusalem. 
 
 At Bethany we descend toLazarus's tomb,.hewnin a rock, 
 while the place for the stone at the. door remains the same. 
 
616 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 One read here the beautiful lesson from John xi., and we 
 then passed to the ruins of the (traditional) home of Martha 
 and Mary, and also that of Simon the leper. Bethany is 
 about two miles south-east of Jerusalem over the eastern 
 slope of Mount Olivet, and this is the route Jesus passed 
 oftentimes as he toiled all day and sometimes prayed all 
 night, for those who rejected and despised him. Here 
 occurred the touching scene when a woman broke an ala- 
 baster box of precious ointment to anoint the Saviour, and 
 provoked the cupidity of Judas by the deed. It was from 
 Bethairy Jesus sent two to prepare for his entrance to Jeru- 
 salem (Luke xix. 29), and here he led out his disciples as 
 he was about to return to the Father. (Luke xxiv. 50.) 
 Though there is little here to detain the traveller in the sur- 
 roundings of the crowd of Arabs crying "backsheesh," 
 still, reflecting that from this slope of the Mount of Olives 
 our Lord returned to the Holy Mountain, we can but feel 
 that he who has "gone out as far as Bethany," has been as 
 near heaven as he can well be on earth. On Mount Olivet 
 we visited the Pater Noster Chapel, erected by the French 
 Princess La Tour d'Auvergne, which is exceedingly beauti- 
 ful. In the court of the Nunnery the Lord's Prayer is 
 written on tablets in the wall, in thirty- two different 
 languages. From the top of a Turkish minaret we had a 
 line view of the city, which looks better from the Bethany 
 road than in any other direction. 
 
 The Mount of Evil Counsel is just in the rear, where 
 " they took counsel against Jesus." We walked down the 
 Mount of Olives, which is exceedingly steep and stony, and 
 entered the Garden of Gethsemane, with its holy memories. 
 Though we may- not know surety the spot in this on closure, 
 3 T et somewhere just here, " being in an agony, he prayed 
 more earnestly, and his sweat was it were great drops of 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 617 
 
 blood falling to the ground ; " and our eyes fill with tears as 
 we hear these words falling from the lips of the matchless 
 Teacher. 
 
 Two of our party sang that sweetly pathetic h}^mn, 
 " 'Twas midnight and on Olive's brow," as we stood under 
 one of the very ancient olive-trees. It is an ever-to-be- 
 cherished hour, and though time and place make little 
 change in heart or thought, yet Jordan and Gethsemane are 
 refreshing places for devotion to the real God. * 
 
 With a few leaves and flowers in our hands as precious 
 souvenirs, we mount our horses and pass through the 
 Valley of Jehosaphat (a fearfully rough way) . At one of 
 the steepest descents, some one remarked, " we are now pre- 
 pared to ride anywhere," And surely in America we would 
 consider such a road unsuitable to be used at all. 
 
 The tombs and sepulchres, hewn in solid rock, are very 
 numerous here, and we stop first at the Pillar of Absalom 
 (2 Samuel xviii. 18), ornamented with twenty-four columns 
 of the Doric order. Quite an open space is seen where the 
 Jews, to this day, throw in stones as they pass, in contempt 
 for his unfilial conduct. Here, too, are the tombs of the 
 Prophets and Judges, and a monument and tomb to Zacha- 
 rias (Luke xi. 51). 
 
 We pause at the Virgin's Fountain, where Jewesses come 
 to bathe each Friday, before going to the " Wailing Place." 
 At Joab's Well, the three valleys unite, Jehosaphat on the 
 north, Kedron on the south, Hinnon on the west. At the 
 Pool of Siloam some one in our party tried to sing, u By cool 
 Siloam's shady rill," but the heat was so great, the way so 
 steep, that it was rather a failure. 
 
 We pass the Potter's Field (Matt, xxvii. 7), and Valley 
 of Moloch (1 Kings xi. 7) , where persons were gathering bits 
 of pottery and grinding them with large stones for cement. 
 
618 A SUMMER JAUXT 
 
 Just across the way, on a hill, is a row of buildings, built 
 by the Rothschilds, for free use by Jews who desire to 
 return to Jerusalem, and are unable to do so for want of 
 homes. 
 
 We stop at the Upper Pool of Hezekiah, which is still 
 older, and is really Gihon (1 Kings i. 33). The Lower 
 Pool is close by our hotel, and was the one in which Bath- 
 sheba was bathing. 
 
 We reached Jerusalem after our twenty-eight miles for 
 this day, very grateful for the journey, notwithstanding the 
 fatigue. 
 
 A half-hour's rest on the divan in our room, and we 
 hasten to the Jews' "Wailing Place," a small area on the 
 west of the wall which forms the foundation of the Mosque 
 of. Omar inclosure, and the only portion visible (from the 
 outside) of the original walls of Solomon's Temple. Here 
 Jews of all ages, both men and women, gather every Fri- 
 cla} T to ciy and lament over the destruction of the Temple. 
 They were reading from Moses and the Prophets, one lead- 
 ing and the rest joining in the refrain, while they wept as if 
 their hearts would break ; and the stones are worn smooth 
 with their kisses. There was not the slightest affectation, 
 but the greatest sincerity, and to me it was a most affecting 
 sight, the words constantly coming to mind, " By the waters 
 of Bab} T lon we sat down and wept when we remembered 
 Zion." This is the season for their seven cla3's' Feast of 
 Tabernacles, and we were permitted to see the Tabernacle 
 as they have it prepared for the last and great day of the 
 feast. We went to two of their synagogues in the evening 
 to see them dance before the Ark " as David did," two 
 Pharisees seeming to make the greatest demonstrations, 
 while all had copies of the ' ' Law and Prophets " in their 
 hands, which they often kissed, as they sang and danced. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 619 
 
 The buildings have arched roofs, like all Oriental houses, 
 and are beautifully decorated. 
 
 Several small parties remained in London to extend 
 their acquaintance with the British metropolis, and to 
 make excursions to Windsor Castle, Oxfoi'd, Strat- 
 ford-on-Avon, the beautiful English lakes, and to other 
 interesting places. The larger number, however, 
 returned to New York in the fine steamer " Circassia," 
 Capt. R. D. Munro, which sailed from Greenock 
 August 17th, after having been kept back two days 
 beyond her appointed time of departure, through the 
 kindness of the Henderson Brothers, the agents of 
 the Anchor Line. In this party were Dr. Tourjee, 
 Mr. Carl Zerrahn, Mr. O. B. Bruce, and many of 
 those who had contributed so much to the success of 
 the entertainments given during the former voyage. 
 
 Our last day in London was made up pretty thor- 
 oughly of preparations for our departure, which was 
 to follow in the evening. Messrs. Cook & Son, 
 who had managed the details of the journey through- 
 out, made excellent arrangements for our long ride 
 from London. Those who wished could engage sleep- 
 ing-berths in the Pullman cars, but the ordinary first- 
 class cars were made very comfortable sleeping-places, 
 inasmuch as only four passengers were permitted in 
 the compartments usually assigned to six. Arriving 
 at Greenock, we were soon transferred on a steam- 
 
620 ' A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 tender to the waiting vessel, which at once entered 
 upon her long voyage across the Atlantic ocean. The 
 scenery along the banks of the river Clyde, and the 
 broad bay known as the Firth of Clyde, is varied and 
 very charming, and if it did not seem to possess all 
 the ravishing beauty it had when our eyes first rested 
 upon it after a ten days' tossing on the great deep, 
 with naught but the green waves to look upon, it 
 could not fail to win enthusiastic admiration. The 
 clouds were lowering, betokening a storm, with a 
 possible roughness of the sea, but happily the storm 
 did not come. Captain Munro sailed the "Circassia" 
 quite near the Irish shore, as he was compelled to put 
 in at Moville, and at Bengore Head treated us to an 
 illustration of the remarkable echo given forth by its 
 frowning wall of rocks. We also enjoyed a fine view 
 of the Giant's Causeway, and of the beautiful scenery 
 about the mouth of Lough Foyle, at the head of 
 which Londonderry is situated. The ocean steamers 
 do not go up to Londonderry, but are met opposite 
 Moville by a steam-tug with passengers and freight. 
 Moville is not the large and important place which it 
 might be inferred to be from its frequent mention in 
 the report of the movements of Atlantic steamers. 
 In fact, it derives its prominence wholly from its sit- 
 uation near Londonderry. In itself it is only a little 
 hamlet, like several others lying along the western 
 shore of Lough Foyle. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 621 
 
 Fairly out at sea, and we turn^ our attention to our 
 steamer and our companions. The " Circassia " is the 
 newest and handsomest addition to the Anchor line, 
 and this chanced to be her fourth trip to America. 
 Built upon the same model as the "Devonia," she 
 possesses all the advantages of that excellent vessel, 
 not excepting an elegant music-room, together with 
 many minor improvements. Pier commander, Captain 
 E. D. Munro, is an experienced officer, who has won 
 troops of friends while commanding other vessels of 
 the same line, and his assistants were found to be 
 courteous gentlemen as well as thorough seamen. 
 Those members of our party who had gone over in the 
 " Devonia " were greatly pleased to find that the kind- 
 hearted Miss Cameron, the former excellent stewardess 
 of that vessel, had been transferred to the "Circassia." 
 The list of officers included in addition to Captain 
 Munro, William Eussell, first officer; George Smith, 
 second officer; Thomas Hoskins, third ^officer; Wil- 
 liam Crockhart, fourth officer ; W. J. Mitchell, sur- 
 geon ; John Mathieson, purser; P. M'Farlane, chief 
 engineer ; and David Muir, chief steward. The stew- 
 ardesses were Miss Cameron and Mrs. M'Master. 
 
 The homeward voyage, considered as a whole, was 
 a very pleasant one, the last three days proving espe- 
 cially favorable ; but on one day, at least (Monday, 
 August 19th), when we were four or five hundred 
 miles off the Irish coast, the passengers were brought 
 
622 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 to a realizing sense that they were on the " rolling 
 deep." The great steamer rolled and pitched amid 
 the giant billows, and everything not held fast — pas- 
 sengers included — rolled and tumbled about in the 
 most ludicrous way. In an unguarded moment, the 
 voyager found himself thrown headlong to the oppo- 
 site side of the deck, and, before he could attach him- 
 self securely to the rail, he would be shot like a rocket, 
 down the changed incline in the opposite direction. 
 Deck-chairs and their seasick occupants fared roughly 
 in all this turbulence ; and then, to enhance the dis- 
 comfort of those who preferred the open air to the 
 close cabins, big waves occasionally clashed completely 
 over the hurricane-deck. All this happened without 
 a downright storm, and it was happily of less than 
 twenty-four hours' duration. With the exception of 
 the day passed on the much dreaded "Banks," the sea 
 was comparatively calm during the remainder of the 
 voyage. 
 
 On the fourth day out, the first of a series of even- 
 ing concerts was given, under Mr. Bruce's able and 
 energetic management. The other passengers en- 
 tered fully into the spirit of this and the subsequent 
 affairs of the kind, and the five evenings thus occupied 
 were seasons of much enjoyment. The singing by 
 Miss Hattie A. Snell, of Lowell, was a feature of 
 especial excellence, and among the other vocalists 
 were Miss Charlotte H. Munger, of Worcester, Mass., 
 
THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 623 
 
 Miss Emily K. Johnston, of Godfrey, 111., Mrs. Sarah 
 Lovell, of Montreal, Miss M'll wraith, of Hamilton, 
 Canada, Miss Croall, of Haddington, Scotland, and 
 Messrs. C. M. Lewis, of Boston, Angelo C. Scott, 
 of Humboldt, Kan., H. H. McGranahan, of James- 
 town, Pa., and W. C. Longmire, of Flatbush, N. Y. 
 At the pianoforte, Mrs. O. B. Bruce, of Binghamton, 
 N. Y., Mrs. Lovell, of Montreal, Miss Lulu Butler, of 
 Knoxville, Tenn., and Miss Lillian M. Tucker, of Sus- 
 quehanna, Pa., did most excellent service, and Mrs. 
 Bruce also contributed several organ solos. To Mrs. 
 Bruce also we were greatly indebted for most of the 
 pianoforte accompaniments. There were readings and 
 recitations by Mr. Bruce (who read his humorous 
 " Song of Degrees", which had created so much 
 amusement on the outward passage), Angelo C. Scott, 
 of Humboldt, Kan., Thomas* Carson, of New York, 
 H. F. Mandell, of Newton, Mass., Mr. John K. 
 Bucklyn, of Mystic Bridge, Conn., and Rev. C. II. 
 Beale, of Centre Moriches, Long Island, N. Y. The 
 two gentlemen last named contributed original poems, 
 the former taking as his topic the incidents of the 
 "Rolling Monday," and the latter the "Table dTIote." 
 Rev. Mr. Beale also contributed a poem recounting 
 some of the happy experiences of the tour through 
 Europe. 
 
 On the evening of Saturday, August 24, the enter- 
 tainment was devoted to the benefit of the Ship- 
 
624 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 wrecked Mariners' Society. The following is Mr. 
 Bruce's announcement of this entertainment, together 
 with the programme, which will serve as a fair sample 
 of the others : — 
 
 Grand Gala-Night for the Benefit of the Shipwrecked Mariners 7 Society. 
 
 The 
 
 Circassian 
 
 Cacophonatic 
 
 Cachinnators. 
 
 Galaxial 
 
 scintillatists. 
 
 Climactric Kesonations. 
 
 eclipsical corruscatings. 
 
 Hallinuciaciousness 
 
 Euphonized. 
 Orthographicalities 
 
 PlIANTOMOTIZED. 
 
 e locution aric 
 
 Demonstratists. 
 
 c antratrixi al 
 
 Gymxasticizings. 
 
 HAPvPSICOKDIAL 
 
 Thrumminatations. 
 
 Bavarianonese 
 
 Symphonosium. 
 
 octogenetieic 
 
 Chorusbifunctionaries, 
 
 Duo-Maleissnuous 
 
 vocolambics 
 
 Unparalleled Success. 
 
 Unprecedented 
 
 Appreciation. 
 
 Exertions Initiated 
 
 at 
 
 8 Bells this Evening. 
 
 N. B. Opera Glasses To Let : Inquire at the Galley. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 625 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 1. Piano Solo, Fantasia on Irish airs, .... Pape. 
 
 Miss Lillian M. Tncker. 
 
 2. Song, " The Maid of Normandy," 
 
 Mr. H. H. McGranahan. 
 
 3. Recitation, " Defence of the Irish Race," . . Shiel. 
 
 Mr. Angelo C. Scott. 
 
 4. Song, "Waiting," . Millard. 
 
 Miss Hattie J. Snell. 
 
 5. Vocal Trio, " The day is done," .... Abt. 
 
 Mrs. Lovell, Miss Munger, and Miss Johnston. 
 
 6. Piano Solo, Fantasia on Scotch airs, . . . Sivari. 
 
 Mrs. O. B. Bruce. 
 
 7. Comic Song, " Mousetraps," 
 
 Mr. W. C. Longmire. 
 
 8. Song, " Strangers yet," Claribel. 
 
 Miss Croall. 
 
 9. Vocal Duet, " II Trovatore," . . . . . Verdi. 
 
 Messrs. Scott and McGranahan. 
 
 10. Comic Scene, "The Spelling-Match." 
 
 11. Piano Solo, " Invitation to the Dance," . . . Weber. 
 
 Miss Lulu Butler. 
 
 12. Song, " The Warrior Bold," Adams. 
 
 Mr. C. M. Lewis. 
 
 13. Recitation, " The Water-Mill," 
 
 Mr. Thomas Carson. 
 
 14. Song, " Don't be Sorrowful, Darling," . . . Millard. 
 
 Miss Charlotte H. Munger. 
 
 15. Chorus, " Good-night, Farewell," .... Garrett. 
 
 16. " The Musician from Bavaria," conducted by Mr. Carl Zerrahn. 
 
 Accompanist, Mrs. O. B. Bruce. 
 
 Mr. Lewis, Miss Munger, and Mr. Longmire were 
 compelled to answer encores. The first-named gentle- 
 man responded with a fine rendering of "Nancy 
 Lee," by Adams ; -Miss Munger with Apthorp's song, 
 " The Owl and Pussy-Cat " ; and Mr. Longmire with a 
 
626 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 " Jubilee " ditty. After the eleventh, number upon the 
 programme, Mr. Bruce, in a few eloquent words, 
 called attention to the objects of the entertainment, 
 and to the claims of those who imperilled their lives on 
 the sea. A contribution was then taken up, several 
 young ladies acting as collectors, and a handsome sum 
 of money was secured for the object named. 
 
 Wc were on the ocean two Sundays, and on each of 
 those days religious services were held. On the 18th 
 of August, these were conducted by Rev. S. H. Kel- 
 logg, of Alleghany City, Pa. ; and, on the 25th, Rev. 
 A. P. M'Diarmid, of Strathroy, Canada, officiated, 
 assisted by Rev. P. M. Macdonald, of Boston. On 
 the last occasion, the weather was warm and delight- 
 ful, and the services were held under an awning on the 
 hurricane-deck. In addition to the morning service, 
 an afternoon service was held, under the direction of 
 Rev. C. H. Beale, in which the steerage passengers 
 and sailors were invited to unite. Morning services 
 were held on other days of the voyage, under the 
 direction of Rev. G. H. Scott, of Plymouth, N. H. ; 
 Rev. Mr. Beale, Rev. Dr. Loomis, of San Francisco, 
 and Rev. Robert J. Coster, D. D., of Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 
 At the last evening meeting held on board the " Cir- 
 cassia," the following resolutions, prepared by a com- 
 mittee consisting of Rev. Robert J. Coster, D. D., of 
 Pittsburgh ; Mr. C. M. Lewis, of Boston ; Mr. A. A. 
 .Sweet, of Hopkinton, Mass. ; and Mr. E. Emory 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 627 
 
 Johnson, of East Haddam, Conn., were unanimously 
 adopted : — 
 
 Resolved, That to Dr. Eben Tourjee, of Boston, belongs 
 the honor of planning and organizing this, the largest ex- 
 cursion party which ever left America, and our congratula- 
 tions and thanks are hereby extended to him .for the com- 
 plete success which has crowned his efforts, and that we 
 have appreciated and thoroughly enjoyed the privileges 
 afforded, and shall ever hold in fond remembrance the many 
 associations which cluster around "The Tourjee Musical 
 Party." 
 
 Resolved, That Prof, and Mrs. O. B. Bruce deserve, and 
 we hereby tender to them, our sincere thanks for contribut- 
 ing, in many ways, to the enjoyment of the entire party ; also 
 we extend our thanks to Mr. Carl Zerrahn, to Misses Char- 
 lotte Munger, Charlotte Thompson, Hattie A. Snell, Emily 
 K. Johnston, Isabella B. Tenney ; to Mrs. Sarah Lovell, 
 Mrs. W. A. Ingham, Mrs. Charles F. Springer, Messrs. C. 
 M. Lewis, J. K. Bucklyn, A. F. Lewis, H. H. McGranahan, 
 Angelo C. Scott, Eev. C. II. Beale, Eev. W. P. Tilden, and 
 others, for their musical, poetical, and declamatory enter- 
 tainments ; also to the Rev. Messrs. P. J. Coster, A. B. 
 Peabody, C. H. Beale, and other clergymen of the party, for 
 conducting religious services. 
 
 Resolved, That after a delightful season of travel, carried 
 out in accordance with Dr. Tourjee' s excellent programme, 
 we heartily indorse the excursion system of -Messrs. Cook, 
 Son & Jenkins, under which our movements were guided. 
 
 Resolved, That to Capt. Craig, and officers of the steam- 
 ship " Devonia," and to Capt. R. D. Munro, and officers of 
 the steamship " Circassia," we extend our thanks for their 
 close attention in providing for our wants, as well as for the 
 
628 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 uniform courtesy which we have received during .our voyage 
 to and from Europe. 
 
 An additional resolution of thanks, offered by Rev. 
 Mr. Kellogg, of Alleghany City, Pa., was tendered to 
 Capt. Munro, of the "Circassia," and his brother 
 officers. 
 
 On the tenth morning after our departure from the 
 Scottish coast, we awoke to a realizing sense that we 
 were approaching American shores. Coney Island, 
 with its white beach and long line of hotels, was in 
 plain view upon our right, and, ahead of us, the green 
 highlands of the New Jersey coast were gleaming in 
 the eastern sun. The pilot had come on board some- 
 time in the night, a circumstance that had been 
 announced by a little uproariousness in the smoking- 
 room on the part of the gentlemen who had ventured 
 in a " pilot-pool." We were soon within the Narrows, 
 and sailing up New York Bay. There was a very 
 brief detention at the quarantine-station, the delay 
 being no longer than was necessary to enable a port- 
 physician to come on board and receive a clean bill of 
 health, and then came the interviews of the custom- 
 house officers. Each passenger arriving from Europe, 
 by steamer, is required to make out a sworn statement 
 in regard to the contents of his trunks and other 
 pieces of luggage, and this proceeding is only prelim- 
 inary to a personal examination of his effects when he 
 lands at the pier. The honest traveller has little to 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 629 
 
 fear, however, although the investigation is made much 
 more searching, as a general thing, than he has been 
 accustomed to undergo in passing from one European 
 country to another. The experience of the Tourjee 
 party, in these particulars, while travelling abroad, 
 was of a much pleasanter character than falls to the lot 
 of ordinary tourists, inasmuch as the word of the con- 
 ductor was generally sufficient to exempt the entire 
 party from trouble, anxiety, or scarcely more than a 
 moment's detention. To the credit of the American 
 officials be it said, the duties which devolved upon 
 them were performed very courteously, as well as 
 with a good degree of thoroughness, and, it is pre- 
 sumed, Uncle Sam received all due enrichment from 
 the returning travellers. 
 
 In the foregoing pages, the pleasant experiences of 
 the Tourjee Excursion Party of 1878 have been 
 sketched with considerable fullness. Much more 
 might be said, but it is needless to rehearse anew the 
 many happy incidents of the tour, or to speculate upon 
 the rich results which must accrue to all intelligent 
 minds from such an extended and well planned round 
 of travel. That the excursion was successful in its 
 every feature, — social, educational, and otherwise, — 
 need not be told to those who were its fortunate par- 
 ticipants ; nor yet to those who, without such a 
 pleasurable experience to look back upon, have 
 attentively read these pages. 
 
630 A SUMMER JAUNT 
 
 Our record would be incomplete without the follow- 
 ing quotation from Dr. Tourjee's " Christmas Greeting" 
 to the members of his party : — 
 
 It has occurred to me that it would not be out of place on 
 my part, to address a few words of friendly greeting to 
 those of our number who have been returned to their homes 
 in safet} r , after having enjo3-ecl, according to a very general 
 expression, an excursion of much more than ordinary inter- 
 est, — embracing the best opportunities for the broadening 
 of their musical and literary culture, and opening fields for 
 future thought which will yield a life-long revenue of 
 pleasure. 
 
 The fact that not a single member of our party suffered 
 any injuiy, but that even some who went out as invalids, 
 came home greatly invigorated, and that a large majority 
 received such an impulse to health as will prove of no little 
 value to them in their educational work, should call forth 
 our heartiest gratitude to the kind Providence that watched 
 over us through all our journeyings, and shielded us from 
 harm. It has been my privilege to receive personal visits 
 from a large number who remained in Europe for some time 
 after the main body returned ; also numerous letters from 
 other members of the party, and all have assured me of 
 their entire satisfaction with the way in which the excursion 
 in all its detail was executed. 
 
 Meanwhile, allow me to tender to you this greeting, and 
 to express my warmest thanks for the way in which you 
 co-operated witli me in my endeavors to make the under- 
 taking a grand and complete success. 
 
THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 631 
 
 Since the above greeting was sent forth, and since a 
 part of this book has been written, death has removed 
 the most venerable of our number, Mr. Eben S. 
 Ricker, of Locust Corner, Clermont County, Ohio. 
 Mr. Kicker's death occurred Saturday, March 1, 1879. 
 He will be kindly remembered by all who enjoyed his 
 genial companionship during the excursion. Although 
 advanced in years, and enfeebled, he enjoyed keenly 
 the pleasures of travel, and the opportunities afforded 
 of further enriching a well-stored mind. He died 
 universally respected. 
 
' 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 LIST OF MEMBERS OF THE TOURJEE EXCURSION PARTY 
 
 OF 1878. 
 
 THE "DEVONIA PARTY. 
 
 A. 
 
 Allison, Miss Mary A. D., Manchester, N. H. 
 
 Allison, Mrs. Charles F., Sackville, N. B. 
 
 Andrews, Miss M. E., Cambridge, Mass. 
 
 Atkins, Miss H. A., Mariners' Harbor, Staten Island, N. Y. 
 
 Atkins, Mr. and Mrs. D. F-, Long Island City, Long Island, N. Y. 
 
 Atwood, Mr. Oscar, Plattsburg, N. Y. 
 
 Austin, Miss Mary E., New Bedford, Mass. 
 
 Ayres, Miss Susie, Auburndale, Mass. 
 
 B. 
 
 Bacon, Mr. N. P., Worcester, Mass. 
 
 Bailey, Mrs. E. M., New York City. 
 
 Baldwin, Miss Belle, New York City. 
 
 Ball, Mrs. Amanda, Fall River, Mass. 
 
 Barnard, Miss Annie W., Lynn, Mass. 
 
 Barnard, Miss Lizzie F. S., Lynn, Mass. 
 
 Baker, Miss Hannah E., Mariners' Harbor, S. I., N. Y. 
 
 Baker, Mr. Charles F., Fitchburg, Mass. 
 
 Barrett, Mr. George R,, New Ipswich, N. H. 
 
 Beale, Rev. C. H., Centre Moriches, Long Island, N. Y. 
 
 Bellows, Dr. A. F.,* Auburndale, Mass. 
 
 Bentley, Mr. Henry, New Brighton, Pa. 
 
 * Joined the party in Europe. 
 
634 APPENDIX. 
 
 Bishop, Miss Agnes M., Bridgetown, N. S. 
 
 Bolles, Miss J. T., Washington, D. C. 
 
 Bolles, Mr. Frank, Washington, D. C. 
 
 Bonnelle, Mr. Frank J., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Boomer, Mrs. Elizabeth M., Fall River, Mass. 
 
 Bourne, Mr. Jacob F., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Bowcn, Miss M. B., Union Female College, Oxford, Miss. 
 
 Brigham, Mr. Wilbur F., Hudson, Mass. 
 
 Briggs, Miss L. P., New Bedford, Mass. 
 
 Broad, Mr. J. Astor, Worcester, Mass. 
 
 Broughton, Mrs. Sarah H., Camden, Oneida County, N. Y. 
 
 Brown, Dr. J. A., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Brown, Miss Helen A., Jersey City Heights, N. J. 
 
 Brown, Mrs. Willard, Lowell, Mass. 
 
 Bruce, Prof, and Mrs. 0. B., Binghamton, N. Y. 
 
 Bruce, Mrs. E. A., Boston Highlands, Mass. 
 
 Bryant, Miss Mary A., Columbia, Tenn. 
 
 Bucklyn, Mr. John K., Mystic Bridge, Conn. 
 
 Burton, Mr. Andrew N., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Butler, Miss Lula, Memphis, Tenn. 
 
 C. 
 
 Carle, Miss Etta S., East Troy, Wis. 
 Carrothers, Miss Kate, Oxford, Miss. 
 Chapman, Miss Margaret R., Beverly, Mass. 
 Chase, Rev. E. S., Cochituate, Mass. 
 Chesley, Mr. T. W., Bridgetown, N. S. 
 Clarke, Miss M. A., Fall River, Mass. 
 Clarke, Mr. Arthur E., Manchester, N. H. 
 Clark, Miss Julia C, Boston, Mass. 
 Clark, Miss Lizzie M., Phillipburg, N. J. 
 Coates, Miss Helen J., Freeport, 111. 
 Colby, Mr. George W., Taunton, Mass. 
 Connelly, Miss Mary C, Corinth, Miss. 
 Coster, Rev. Robert J., D. D., Pittsburgh, Penn„ 
 Crapster, Miss Mary F., Simpsonville, Ky. 
 Cushing, Miss Mary, Cleveland, Ohio. 
 
 D. 
 
 Denise, Mr. Ira C, Franklin, Warren County, Ohio* 
 Dix, Miss Evelyn, Boston, Mass. 
 
APPENDIX. 635 
 
 Dix, Miss Florence, Boston, Mass. 
 
 Dix, Miss M. H., Washington, D. C. 
 
 Doane, Miss Cynthia, Mechanicsville, Bucks County, Pa. 
 
 Durfee, Miss Eliza, Fall River, Mass. 
 
 E. 
 
 Eastman, Miss Sophia E., South Hadley, Mass. 
 
 Edson, Prof, and Mrs. H. K., Denmark Academy, Denmark, Lee County, 
 
 Iowa. 
 Ely, Mr. and Mrs. Ralph, Cleveland, Ohio. 
 Emerson, Mr. F. D., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 Emery, Mrs. D. S., Boston, Mass. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fay, Miss Eliza A., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Fay, Mrs. George W., Marlboro', Mass. 
 
 Feagles, Miss Clara, Amity, Orange County, N. Y. 
 
 Field, Miss A. Louise, Taunton, Mass. 
 
 Fisk, Rev. N. B., Marlboro', Mass. 
 
 Fisher, Rev. George W., Peaeedale, R. I 
 
 Folger, Miss Ellen A., Concord, N. H. 
 
 Foster, Miss Fannie E., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Fox, Mrs. John G., Carson City, Nevada. 
 
 Frcedley, Miss S. Sophia, Norristown, Pa. 
 
 Freeman, Dr. Z., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Freeman, Mr. Leonard R., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Freeman, Mrs. E. R., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 G. 
 
 Gardner, Miss Clara, Hastings, Minn. 
 
 Gardner, Mr. 0. W., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Gates, Mr. E. P., Lake City, Minn. 
 
 Gates, Mrs. Helen L., Lake City, Minn. 
 
 Gilmore, Miss Helen, North Raynham, Mass. 
 
 Glenn, Miss L. G., Lebanon, Pa. 
 
 Gould, Mr. and Mrs. Charles H., Danvers, Mass. 
 
 Green, Mrs. Laura T., Milton Lower Mills, Mass. 
 
 Greve, Mr. C. M., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Griswold, Mrs. G. F., Janesvilie, Wis. 
 
 Gunckel, Mr. Ernest W., Middletown, Ohio. 
 
 Gyger, Miss Hannah, Bryn Mawr, Montgomery Co., Pa. 
 
636 APPENDIX. 
 
 H. 
 
 Haines, Miss Dr. E., Newark, N. J. 
 
 Hanaford, Mrs. P. C, Chicago, HI. 
 
 Harkness, Mrs. B. H., Humboldt, Humboldt Co., Iowa. 
 
 Harlow, Mr. Richard A., Springfield, 111. 
 
 Haskell, Rev. N. A., Harvard, Mass. 
 
 Hawkes, Mrs. Ezra, Boston, Mass. 
 
 Hawley, Mrs. Thomas P., Carson City, Nevada. 
 
 Hobson, Mr. Harry M., Nashua, N. H. 
 
 Holcombe, Miss E. A., Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 Holden, Mr. and Mrs. Luther L., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Hollingshead, Miss Rebecca, Medford, Burlington Co., N. J. 
 
 Holyoke, Mrs. Mary B., Norwich, Conn. 
 
 Hubbard, Mrs. Fannie V., Brighton, 111. 
 
 Hume, Mrs. Ellen, Brighton, 111. 
 
 . I. 
 
 Ingham, Mr. and Mrs. W. A., Cleveland, Ohio. 
 Inman, Miss Mary E., Burrillville, R. I. 
 Inman, Mr. Olney F., Burrillville, R. I. 
 Irwin, Mrs. M. E., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 J. 
 
 Jefts, Miss Abbie F., Hudson, Mass. 
 Jcfts, Mr. L. F., Hudson, Mass. 
 Jefts, Mrs. E. S., Hudson, Mass. 
 Johnson, Miss Vianna II., Concord, N. H. 
 Johnson, Mr. E. Emory, Moodus, Conn. 
 Johnston, Miss Emily K., Godfrey, Madison Co., 111. 
 Joselyn, Mr. A. D., Jersey City Heights, N. J. 
 Judson, Dr. Edwin, Chicago, 111. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kaley, Mr. Frank Elmer, Milford, N. H. 
 Kaufmann, Miss K. E., Cleveland, Ohio. 
 Kelley, Miss Susie, Woodland, Cal. 
 Kelley, Mrs. J. M,, Woodland, Cal. 
 Kellogg, Miss Amelia, Chicago, 111. 
 Kimball, Miss Mary E., Leominster, Mass. 
 Kimball, Rev. and Mrs. 0. D., Leominster, Mass. 
 
APPENDIX. 637 
 
 Knight, Miss Ellen F., Burrillville, R. I. 
 Koons, Miss Clara, Lambertville, N. J. 
 
 L. 
 
 Lane, Mrs. Zenas M., Rockland, Mass. 
 
 Lane, Mr. G. F., Birmingham, Huntingdon Co., Pa. 
 
 Leland, Miss Mary G., Fall River, Mass. 
 
 Leonard, Miss Anna E., Female Seminary, Oxford, Ohio. 
 
 Lethbridge, Miss Kate A., Boston Highlands, Mass. 
 
 Lewis, Mr. A. F., Fryeburg, Me. 
 
 Lewis, Mr. and Mrs. C. M., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Lovell, Mrs. Sarah, Montreal, P. Q. 
 
 Lyman, Miss Mary E., Middlefield, Conn. 
 
 M. 
 
 Macdonald, Rev. P. M., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Marble, Miss Elizabeth G., Arlington, Mass. 
 
 Marshall, Rev. Perry, Mendon, Vt. 
 
 McGranahan, Mr. H. H., Jamestown, Pa. 
 
 Mendall, Miss Mary S., New Bedford, Mass. 
 
 Miles, Mrs. T. C, Boston, Mass. 
 
 Millard, Miss B., Pana, 111. 
 
 Millard, Miss E., Pana, 111. 
 
 Mills, Miss Sarah M., Mary Institute, St. Louis, Mo. 
 
 Mitchell, Miss Cora, Providence, R. I. 
 
 Moody, Rev. R. B., Milford, N. H. 
 
 Moore, Mrs. J. G., Lisbon, N. H. 
 
 Morgan, Mrs. H. E., Milford, Mass. 
 
 Morse, Miss E. G., Hartford, Conn. 
 
 Morse, Mr. and Mrs. Charles E., Charlton, Mass. 
 
 Mowry, Miss Eliza A., North Scituate, R. I. 
 
 Munger, Miss Charlotte H., Worcester, Mass. 
 
 N. 
 
 Nelson, Miss Molly, Woodland, Cal. 
 Nutting, Mrs. H. T., Royalston, Mass. 
 
 P. 
 
 Page, Miss Sarah H., Cambridge, Mass. 
 Paige, Dr. Nomus, Taunton, Mass. 
 
638 APPENDIX. 
 
 Paine, Miss M. Janet, Rockland, Mass. 
 Palmer, Dr. Joseph W., Fitchburg, Mass. 
 Patchin, Miss Charlotte E., Champaign, 111. 
 Peabody, Rev. A. B., Stratham, N. H. 
 Perkins, Miss F. W., Middlefield, Conn. 
 Perry, Miss Caroline S., Boston, Mass. 
 Perry, Miss Martha A., Boston, Mass. 
 Pickard, Miss M. E., Sackville, N. B. 
 Pomeroy, Miss Mary A., Franklin, Vt. 
 
 R. 
 
 Ray, Rev. and Mrs. John W., Lake City, Minn. 
 
 Rickcr, Mr. E. L., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Robbins, Mr. John, Boston, Mass. 
 
 Root, Mr. and Mrs. M. A., Bay City, Mich. 
 
 Rose, Mrs. A. F., Clyde, Ohio. 
 
 Rugg, Mr. Charles P., New Bedford, 
 
 S. 
 Safford, Mrs. A. E., Boston, Mass. 
 Scott, Mr. Angelo C, Humboldt, Kan. 
 Sessions, Miss E. K., Panama, N. Y. 
 Shattuck, Miss Hattie N., Warren, Pa. 
 Shaw, Miss Annie H., East Dennis, Mass. 
 Shaw, Mrs. Mary C, Paterson, N. J. 
 Shaw, Rev. Charles D., Paterson, N. J. 
 Shepherd, Miss B. B., Manchester, N. H. 
 Shick, Mr. Cyrus, Anna, 111. 
 Shoemaker, Mrs. R. A., Belvidere, N. J. 
 Smith, Miss Sarah, Burlington, Iowa. 
 Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Charles, Boston, Mass. 
 Smith, Mrs. J. G., Boston, Mass. 
 Smith, Mr. W. E. C, Boston, Mass. 
 Smith, Rev. Henry R., Barre, Mass. 
 Snell, Miss Hattie A., Lowell, Mass. 
 Sortwell, Mrs. D. R., East Cambridge, Mass. 
 Spaulding, Miss I. R., Salem, Mass. 
 Springer, Mrs. Charles F., Anamosa, Iowa. 
 Squire, Mr. John Adams, Arlington, Mass. 
 Squire, Mrs. John P., Arlington, Mass. 
 Squire, Miss Kate I., Arlington, Mass. 
 
APPENDIX. 639 
 
 Squire, Miss Nannie G., Arlington, Mass. 
 
 Steckel, Mr. Amos, Bloomfield, Iowa. 
 
 Steele, Mr. F. L., Winchester, Mass. 
 
 Stillman, Miss Phoebe A., Normal School, Oswego, N. Y. 
 
 Suck, Mr. Carl, Boston, Mass. 
 
 Sweet, Mr. and Mrs. Albert E., Burrillville, R. I. 
 
 Sweet, Mr. Alvan A., Hopkinton, Mass. 
 
 Temple, Miss Anna G., Dubuque, Iowa. 
 Tenney, Miss Isabella B., Winchester, Mass. 
 Thompson, Miss Charlotte, New Milford, Conn. 
 Thorburn, Rev. J., Ottawa, P. O. 
 Tilden, Rev. W. P., Boston, Mass. 
 Tourjee, Miss Lizzie, Auburndale, Mass. 
 Tourjee, Mr. and Mrs. Eben, Auburndale, Mass. 
 Tourtelotte, Miss Mary A., West Medway, Mass. 
 Towne, Mr. E. B, Jr., North Raynham, Mass. 
 Towne, Mr. E. B., North Raynham, Mass. 
 Towne, Miss Etta B., North Raynham, Mass. 
 
 Valentine, Mrs. M. P., Keosauqua, Iowa. 
 Virgin, Miss Ellen, Bo'ston, Mass. 
 
 W. 
 
 Washburne, Miss Lulie M., Medford, Mass. 
 
 Washburne, Mr. Herbert F., Medford, Mass. 
 
 Watson, Rev. John P., Mashapaug, Conn. 
 
 Watts, Miss Annie, Dubuque, Iowa. 
 
 Weston, Miss E., Boston Highlands, Mass. 
 
 White, Miss B. M., Whitesboro', Oneida County, N. Y. 
 
 White, Miss Caroline, Mt. Carroll, 111. 
 
 Wilcox, Miss Jessie, Boston, Mass. 
 
 Willis, Miss Irene D. S., Hannibal, Mo. 
 
 Wilson, Mrs. J. M., Worcester, Mass. 
 
 Woods, Miss Henrietta, Swampscott, Mass. 
 
 Y. 
 
 Young, Miss Mary, Boston, Mass. 
 
640 APPENDIX. 
 
 Z. 
 
 Zerrahn, Mr. and Mrs. Carl, Boston, Mass. 
 
 THE " CIRCASSIA " PARTY. 
 
 B. 
 
 Bausman, Mr. J. W. B., Lancaster, Pa. 
 
 Benedict, Miss Mattie S., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Benedict, Rev. A. J., Gorham, N. H. 
 
 Bennett, Mr. Thomas E., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Blackman, Miss Emily C, Montrose, Pa. 
 
 Brewer, Moses K., M. D., Baltic, Conn. 
 
 Brooks, Miss Mary 0., Granville, Licking County, Ohio. 
 
 Bruneau, Mrs. A. B., Fall River, Mass. 
 
 Bull, Mr. S. A. Carlisle, Mass. 
 
 Burchard, Prof. O. R., Fredonia, N. Y. 
 
 C. 
 Carson, Miss Rachel, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 Chapman, Miss Clara E., Boston Highlands. 
 Chapman, Miss Martha D., Boston Highlands. 
 Clothier, Miss Minnie T., Bergen, N. Y. 
 Cotting, Miss Elizabeth H., Boston Highlands, Mass. 
 Cotting, Mrs. B. E., Boston Highlands, Mass. 
 Cushing, Mrs. W. B., Fredonia, N. Y. 
 
 D. 
 
 Dunaway, Miss Mary E., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 E. 
 Edge, Hon. J. P., Downington, Pa. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fullager, Miss Mary L., Dunkirk, N. Y 
 
 G. 
 
 Grant, Mr. Wesley M., Boston, Mass. 
 
 H. 
 
 Holt, Mr. Fred P., Hartford, Conn. 
 
APPENDIX. 641 
 
 I. 
 
 Ingalls, Mrs. S. T., San Jose, Cal. 
 
 King, Mr. Brinton, Chadd's Ford, Pa. 
 
 L/ 
 
 Landrum, Mrs. J. S., Phelps, N. Y. 
 
 Lawrence, Mr. George 0. C., Newton Centre, Mass. 
 
 Little, Mr. Charles 0., Delaware, Ohio. 
 
 M. 
 
 Mann, Miss Mary A., Hartford, Conn. 
 
 Maple, Rev. J. C, Mexico, Mo. 
 
 McDonnell, Mr. G. D., Almonte, Ontario, Canada. 
 
 McKee, Miss A. E., Seven Mile, Butler County, Ohio. 
 
 McKinstry, Miss Annie, Fredonia, N. Y. 
 
 Metcalfe, Mr. Fred'k, Salem, Roanoke County, Pa. 
 
 Mitchell, Dr. Ellen E., Montrose, Pa. 
 
 O. 
 
 Odell, Miss Maria E., Eastport, Me. 
 
 P. 
 
 Page, Mr. A. Leroy, New Haven, Conn. 
 Phelps, Miss Eliza T., Andover, Conn. 
 Powers, Mr. and Mrs. Samuel L., Boston, Mass. 
 Platts, Miss Laura F., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quale, Mr. R. J., Silver Creek, N. Y. 
 
 R. 
 
 Riddle, Mr. Charles L., Gilroy, Cal. 
 
 S. 
 
 Sheldon, Mr. George, Sherman, N. Y. 
 Shepardson, Miss Lida D., Granville, Licking County, Ohio. 
 Shepardson, Miss Mary E., Granville, Licking County, Ohio. 
 Shepardson, Rev. D., D. D., Granville, Licking County, Ohio. 
 Stuart, Mrs. M. M., Phelps, N. Y. 
 
C42 APPENDIX. 
 
 T. 
 
 Taylor, Mr. E., East Rochester, Ohio. 
 Trimble, Miss Kathern, Covington, Ky. 
 Trimble, Mr. William, Covington, Ky. 
 
 W. 
 
 Ward, Mr. Samuel L., Cambridgeport, Mass. 
 Warfel, Hon. J. B., Lancaster, Pa. 
 Warren, Miss Florence, Felton County, Del. 
 Whitney, Hon. M. B., Westfield, Mass. 
 Whitney, Miss Martha R., Lancaster, Mass. 
 Wickcrsham, Hon. J. P., Lancaster, Pa. 
 Wilson, Miss Josephine, Boston Highlands, Mass. 
 Wilson, Miss Rosalie, Boston Highlands, Mass. 
 Wise, Miss Margaret T., Boston, Mass. 
 Wood, Miss Caroline, Boston Highlands, Mass. 
 Wyman, Mr. and Mrs. Abner P., Arlington, Mass. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Antwerp, 389. 
 
 Cathedral, 391. 
 
 Museum of Paintings, 393. 
 
 Plantin Museum, 394. 
 
 Rubens's Pictures, 393. 
 Brussels, 377. 
 
 Cathedral of Ste. Gudule, 381. 
 
 Conservatoire de Musique, 386. 
 
 G-alerie St. Hubert, 381. 
 
 Guild Houses, 380. 
 
 Hdtel de Ville, 377. 
 
 BELGIUM. 
 
 Brussels : 
 
 Lace Manufactories, 388. 
 
 Monuments and Statues, 385. 
 
 Musee Wiertz, 384. 
 
 Museum of Paintings, 383. 
 
 Park, 382. 
 
 Palaces, 382. 
 Liege, 376. 
 Louvain, 377. 
 Mechlin, 389. 
 Waterloo, Battle-field of, 388. 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 Brighton, 209. 
 Carlisle, 104, 105. 
 Crystal Palace, 197-202. 
 
 Entertainments at, 
 202. 
 English Channel, 210. 
 Greenwich, 196. 
 London, 119-207. 
 
 Albert Memorial, 185, 186. 
 
 Bank of England, 196. 
 
 British Museum, 178-182. 
 
 Buckingham Palace, 190. 
 
 Cabs, 131, 132. 
 
 Charing Cross, 152, 153. 
 
 City, 122-124. 
 
 Cleopatra's Needle, 192, 193. 
 
 Crown Jewels, 176, 177. 
 
 Docks, 195. 
 
 East End, 126. 
 
 Fleet Street, 157. 
 
 General Post-Office, 167. 
 
 Great Fire, 125. 
 
 Green Park, 189. 
 
 Horticultural Gardens, 185. 
 
 Houses of Parliament, 132-140. 
 
 200- 
 
 London : 
 
 Hyde Park, 188, 189. 
 Kensington Gardens, 187, 188. 
 Metropolitan Railway, 128, 129. 
 Midland Grand Hotel, 120. 
 Monuments and Statues, 125, 141, 
 
 150, 152, 153, 167, 189, 197. 
 ' National Gallery, 153-156. 
 Nelson Monument, 153. 
 Omnibuses, 130. 
 Opera, 202. 
 Parks, 187-191. 
 Royal Albert Hall, 186, 187. 
 
 Concert at, 187. 
 Royal Exchange, 197. 
 Seeing the Queen, 202-205. 
 Somerset House, 156. 
 South Kensington Museum, 182-185. 
 Spurgeon, and his Work, 205-207. 
 Strand, 156, 157. 
 St. Pancras Station, 119. 
 St. Paul's, 122, 159-166. 
 
 Churchyard, 167. 
 Temple, 157. 
 Thames, 194-196. 
 
644 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 London : 
 
 Thames Embankment, 191-194. 
 Tower, 167-178. 
 Tramways, 130. 
 West End, 125. 
 Westminster Abbey, 142-150. 
 Westminster Hall, 140, 141. 
 Whitehall, 151, 152. 
 
 Midland Railway, 105-107, 116-119. 
 Newhaven, 209. 
 Normanton, 117. 
 Oxford, 556, 560. 
 Stratford-on-Avon, 560-569. 
 Woolwich, 196. 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 Dieppe, 210-213. 
 Paris, 216-269. 
 
 ArcdeTriomphedel'Etoile,228, 229. 
 du Caroussel, 241, 
 242. 
 
 Bois de Boulogne, 229. 
 
 Boulevards, 219. 
 
 Buttes Chaumont, 254. 
 
 Champs Elysees, 223, 224. 
 
 Colonne de Juillet, 246. 
 
 Colonne Vendome, 245, 246. 
 
 Conservatoire de Musique, 250-252. 
 
 Ecole Militaire, 245. 
 
 Exposition, 255-262. 
 
 Concerts at, 260-262. 
 
 Grand Opera House, 248-250. 
 
 Halles Centrales, 254. 
 
 Hotel Bedford, 217. 
 
 Hotel des Invalides, 243-245. 
 
 Isle de la Cite, 233, 234. 
 
 Louvre, 238-241. 
 
 Madeleine, 229-231. 
 
 Mammoth Balloon, 242. 
 
 Monuments and Statues, 225, 245- 
 248. 
 
 Paris : 
 
 Morgue, 235. 
 
 Napoleon's Tomb, 244, 245. 
 
 Notre Dame, 231-233. 
 
 Obelisk of Luxor, 225. 
 
 Opera Comique, 250. 
 
 Palais de Justice, 234, 235. 
 
 Palais du Luxembourg, 242. 
 
 Palais Royal, 241-243. - 
 
 Pantheon, 235, 236. ' 
 
 Pere-la-Chaise, 252-254. 
 
 Place de la Concorde, 225-228. 
 
 Place des Victoires, 247. 
 
 Place du Trone, 247, 248. 
 
 Reception at Mr. Thomas Cook's, 
 267-269. 
 
 Sainte Chapelle, 235. 
 
 Seine, 220. 
 
 Sewers, 221. 
 
 Street Cleaning, 221-223. 
 
 Tuileries Gardens, 224. 
 Rouen, 214, 215. 
 Sevres, 267. 
 St. Cloud, 262, 263. 
 Versailles, 263-267. 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle, 374. 
 Baden-Baden, 336. 
 Biebrich, 351. 
 Bingen, 356. 
 Bonn, 365. 
 Boppard, 361. 
 Bromersburg, The, 355. 
 " Cat," The, 359. 
 Coblenz, 362. 
 Cologne, 565. 
 
 " Devil's Ladder," The, 357. 
 Drachenfels, 364. 
 Ehrenbreitstein, 341. 
 Eltville, 355. 
 
 GERMANY. 
 
 Frankfort-on-the-Main, 346. 
 Gutenfels, Castle of, 358. 
 Heidelberg, 342. 
 Johannisberg, Castle of, 355. 
 Lahneck, Castle of, 362. 
 Laufenburg, 325. 
 Lurlei, The, 359. 
 Marksburg, Castle of, 361. 
 " Mouse," The, 359. 
 " Mouse Tower," 356. 
 Nonnenworth, 363. 
 Oel-Bach, 337. 
 Reichonstoin, Castle of, 357. 
 Rheineck, Castle of, 362. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 645 
 
 Rheinfels, Castle of, 360. 
 Rheingau, The, 354. 
 Rheinstein, Castle of, 357. 
 Rhine, The, 319-321, 323-326, 352. 
 Rolandseck, 363. 
 Rudesheim, 355. 
 Schonberg, Castle of, 359. 
 
 Middleburg, 397. 
 Roosendaal, 396. 
 
 Dublin, 169-171. 
 Dunluce Castle, 43. 
 Giant's Causeway, 42. 
 
 Capri, Blue Grotto of, 610. 
 
 Florence, 432-445. 
 
 Genoa, 548-552. 
 
 Lakes, 611. 
 
 Milan, 408-413. 
 
 Mont Cenis Tunnel, 406, 407. 
 
 Naples, 506-517, 541-543. 
 
 Pisa, 543-548. 
 
 Pompeii, 514, 517-532. 
 
 Reception of the King and Queen, 
 
 432. 
 Rome, 446-508. 
 
 Appian Way, 471-474. 
 
 Basilica of St. Paul, 479. 
 
 Baths of Caracalla, 468-471. 
 
 Capitol, 460-464. 
 
 Catacombs, 489-491. 
 
 Colosseum, 456-460. 
 
 Column of Trajan, 504, 505. 
 
 Sooneck, Tower of, 357. 
 Stahleck, Castle of, 358. 
 Stolzenfels, Castle of, 361. 
 Strassburg, 329. 
 
 " Two Brothers," Castles of the, 
 Wiesbaden, 349. 
 
 HOLLAND. 
 
 I Vlissingen (Flushing), 397. 
 I Zuid-Beveland, 396. 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 Irish Coast, 41-43. 
 Moville, 620. 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 Rome : 
 
 Forum, 463. 
 
 Mamertine Prison, 475-477. 
 
 Pantheon, 464-468. 
 
 Presentation to Signor Barattoni, 
 508. 
 
 Santa Scala, 479, 480. 
 
 St. Clement's House, 409-503. 
 
 St. Paul's House, 477, 478. 
 
 St. Peter's, 448-452. 
 
 Tomb of Cecilia Metella, 472, 473. 
 
 Triumphal Arches, 454-456. 
 
 Vatican, 480-489. 
 
 Visit to the Pope, 491-496. 
 Sorrento, 610. 
 Turin, 552, 553. 
 Venice, 417-432. 
 Verona, 413-417. 
 Vesuvius, 532-541. 
 
 Anchor Fleet, 6. 
 " Bell Time," 15. 
 
 Bruce, O. B., Addresses of, 90, 268. 
 Bucklyn, John K., Address of, 89. 
 Burial at Sea, 36, 37. 
 " Chalking," 13. 
 «« Circassia," Steamer, 606, 621. 
 Congratulatory Note, Dr. Tourjee's, 630 
 Cook, John M., Address of, 69, 70. 
 Cook, Thomas, Address of, 268, 269. 
 "Devonia," Steamer, 5-7. 
 Entertainments at Sea, 16-19, 20, 21, 29 
 30, 34, 35, 39, 40, 44-46, 622. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 European Railways, 106-116. 
 
 Fisk, Rev. N. B., Address of, 90. 
 
 Fourth of July Celebration, 25-28. 
 
 Holy Land, 613-618. 
 
 Jerusalem, 618. 
 
 "Land ho!" 41. 
 
 McLaren, Jr., Duncan, Address of, 86- 
 
 Programmes of Entertainments, 16, 17, 
 20, 24, 29, 30, 34, 39, 40, 44, 45, 624. 
 
 Reignard E., Address of, 269. 
 
 Religious Services, 11, 12, 16, 28, 34, 37, 
 38, 41, 626. 
 
646 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Resolutions, 45, 46, 627. 
 Robertson Thomas, Address of, 91. 
 Root, M. A., Address of, 269. 
 " Song of Degrees," 18-20. 
 
 Thorburn, Rev. J., Address of, 90. 
 Tilden, Rev. W. P., Ode by, 26, 27. 
 TourjSe Dr., Address of, 91. 
 
 SCOTLAND 
 
 Abbotsford, 98-101. 
 Edinburgh, 63-93. 
 
 Antiquarian Museum, 82. 
 
 Arthur's Seat, 83. 
 
 Canongate, 74. 
 
 Castle, 79-82. 
 
 High Street, 75, 76. 
 
 Holyrood Palace and Chapel, 70-74. 
 
 Knox's House, 75. 
 
 Monuments and Statues, 66-69, 78, 
 79, 84, 85. 
 
 National Gallery, 83. 
 
 Parliament House, 77. 
 
 Queen's Drive, 83. 
 
 Reception by Sabbath-School Teach- 
 ers' Union, 85-93. 
 
 Edinburgh : 
 
 School of the Theory of Music, 8 
 84. 
 
 Scott Memorial, 66, 67. 
 
 St. Giles's, 76-78. 
 
 " Tbc Heart of Mid Lothian," 77. 
 
 University, 83, 84. 
 Firth of Clyde, 43, 620. 
 Glasgow, 47-51. 
 Inversnaid, 54, 55. 
 Loch Katrine, 56, 57. 
 Loch Lomond, 50-54. 
 Melrose Abbey, 95-98. 
 Stirling, 59-63. 
 Stronachlacher, 55, 56. 
 Trosachs, 57. 
 Waverley Route, 93-102. 
 
 Basel, 326-328. 
 
 Bern, 290-294. 
 
 Bodeli Railway, 295, 296, 301. 
 
 Brienz, Lake of, 301, 303. 
 
 Brunig Pass, 303-305. 
 
 Cbillon, Castle of, 283-285. 
 
 Fribourg, 286-290. 
 
 Geneva, 272-280. 
 
 Gersau, 309, 310. 
 
 Giessbach, Falls of the, 301-303. 
 
 Grindelwald, 298, 299. 
 
 Interlaken, 296, 297, 301. 
 
 Lausanne, 282, 283. 
 
 Lauterbrunnen, 297, 298. 
 
 Leman, Lake, 280, 281. 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 Lucerne, 310-315. 
 
 Lake of, 305, 306, 308-310. 
 Organ Concerts, 279, 280, 289, 290, 291, 
 
 292, 314, 315. 
 Ouchy, 280. 
 
 Rigi, The, 306-308, 579, 590, 599, 600. 
 Rhine, Falls of the, 319, 320. 
 Sclrifflnmsen, 319, 322, 323. 
 Staubbach, Falls of the, 298. 
 Tell's Chapel, 310. 
 Thun, 294. 
 
 Lake of, 295. 
 Zug, 315. 
 Zurich, 315-319. 
 
m mi Paris. 
 
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