Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2010 witii funding from Tine Library of Congress littp://www.arcliive.org/details/tliirteenyearsinmOOdree •||.\l;l.l.^ w . i'i;i:i;s. h.h.. as hi; is id-hav THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO (FROM LETTERS OF CHARLES W. DREES) EDITED BY ADA M. C. DREES PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY THE ABINGDON PRESS NEW YORK Fit/s ■D11 Copyright, 1915, by ADA M. C. DREES SEP U1915 'CU J J (J 069 1/1^ . { CONTENTS PAGE Preface 5 An Appreciation 7 A Personal Word 9 Chapter I Sailing for Mexico — Incidents of voyage — Havana — Arrival in Mexico City — First impressions — Death of Robert Butler — Visit to Pachuca — Fourth of July celebration — First sermon in Spanish — Guadalupe — Indians from Celaya 17 Chapter II Removal to Puebla — First associate — Establishment of Boys' Orphanage — Arrival of Mr. Ludlow's family — Dedication of Chapel — Beginning of Theological Seminary — Bachelor's HaU — Visit to Apizaco — Visit to Cordoba — Special feast days 41 Chapter III Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Craver — Visit of his sister — Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Siberts — First Revolution — ^Fighting in Puebla — Ai'rival of Mr. Luders — Death of Mr. Goethe 64 Chapter IV Election of Porfirio Diaz — First mob attack^ — ^First vacation — Marriage — Return journey — Arrival in Puebla 78 Chapter V Arrival of Bishop Merrill, Dr. Dashiell and Mr. Thomas Price — Annual Meeting — Indian boys — Visit to Atzala — Arrival of Miss Swaney — Visit to Los Reyes — Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Barker and Miss Clara Mulliner — Murder of Indian boys' father — Another mob — Appointment to Superintendency 91 Chapter VI Visit to Pachuca and Omitlan — Arrival of Dr. Gilman — Visit to Orizava and Cordoba — Visit to Guanajuato and Queretaro — Visit to San Vicente and Miraflores — Dedication of Chapel in Puebla — Visit to Vera Cruz and Cordoba- — AiTival of Mr. and Mrs. Umpleby 108 Chapter VII An interesting story — Arrival of Bishop Harris — Visit to the In- terior — Purchase of property in Guanajuato — Tour of inspec- tion with Bishop Han'is — A priest's story — Removal to Mexico City — Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Greenman — Visit to Pachuca and Tezontepec — Diligence experiences — Dedication of Chapel in Apizaco — Wreck of the City of Vera Cruz — Another journey to the Interior — Dedication of Chapel in Guanajuato 123 CONTENTS PAGE CUAITER VIll Annual McetinR — Querctaro mob — Return to Mexico City — Visit to riuanrxjuato and Leon— Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Kemble — Ileturn to (^ucntaro— Opening Services in (^ueretaro — Visit to Leon — 'J'oiir of I'achuca District — Another trip to the Interior — Illness of Mr. Luders — Arrival of Dr. Fuentes 140 Chapter IX Property matters in Tulancingo — Journey to Vera Cruz — Arrival of Bishop Andrews — Arrival of Dr. Wood — Death of Mr. Luders — Visit to Interior — Appointed Treasurer — Vi.sit to Hiuitusco — Visit to Pachuca — Dedication of Chapel at Ileal del Monte — First R. R. journey to the Interior 163 Chapter X Purchase of property in Orizava and Puebla — Visit home — Re- turn to Mexico ISl Chapter XI Arrival of Bishop ^\■arrcn and family — Ascent of Popocatepetl — Visit to an Indian town — Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. L. C. Smith — Death of first Protestant Minister in Querctaro — First through train on Mexican Central R. R. — Arrival of Miss Le Huray — Visit to Silao and Guanajuato — Arrival of Directors of Mexican Central R. R. — Visit to mountain district of Peubla — History repeats itself — Celaya Mob — 16th of September celebration — .^Vrrival of Miss Loyd — Inauguration of President Diaz 189 Chapter XII Arrival of Bishop Harris and J. M. Phillip.s — Organization of An- nual Conference — Assault on Gamboa — Evangelistic tour with L. C. Smith — Visit to Sierra of Puebla — Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Salmans — Special festivities at Guadalupe — Visit to District of Pachuca — Arrival of Bishop Foster 215 Chapter XIII Distri(-ting of Conference — Bishop Foster's visit — American Hos- pital — Purchiise of i)roperty for Woman's Foreign Missionary Society in Mexico City — Tour of Pachuca District with L. B. Salmans — Visit to Morelia and Patzcuai'O — Special festivities of 16th of September — Call to South ^^jnerica — Departure from Mexico 229 Appendix The Drees Family 244 College Life 248 ILLUSTRATIONS Charles W. Drees, D,D., as he is to-day Frontispiece Mr. Drees as a College Student Facing page 78 Mr. and Mrs. Drees at the time of their Departure from Mexico Facing page 229 PREFACE An apology, if one be needed, for offering to the church at large, and to his personal friends in particular, some salient features of the biography of Charles W. Drees, and especially his experiences in Mexico, is found in the following letter written to Dr. J. M. Buckley, Editor of The Christian Advocate. We quote from the letter : "I certainly hope that your suggestion as to personal biographies of missionaries may be carried out, for in no other way can the whole church ever know what has been borne and done by these brave souls in strange lands, and amid scenes that can- not be imagined here, "In Mexico, for instance, where I had the honor to spend a few years of hard and dangerous service, there might be written a history surpassing Stevens's wonder- ful book on American Methodism, in elements of romance, heroic courage, and martyrdom for Christ's sake. ''Among the early workers there whose names deserve to be immortalized in Methodist annals are the Butler family, father and son, inaugurators of the Mexican mission; Craver, the founder of that of Guanajuato; Siberts, the principal of Puebla Seminary; Smith, the evangelist and story-teller; Greenman, the invader of those two fanatical strongholds, Queretaro and Celaya; and Salmans, the medical missionary. "Besides these there were Monroy, Fernandez, Palacios, Loza, Gamboa, and other Mexican ministers, worthy to stand in the foremost rank. 5 6 PREFACE '•But, ninoiio: tlieiii all, Charles W. Drees stands con- spiiuoiis ;is the heroic leader of that little band who laid ili( re I lie iDundations of our work in the days of persecu- tion unto death. Physically as well as mentally an athlete, he was always ready in every time of peril, on the first indication of danger, to hasten to the threatened point and expose his life freely for the sake of the brethren, lie was a broad scholar, a constant traveler, a wise counselor, an able editor, a faultless financier. "(Signed) Duston Kemble." The letters fonnd in tliis book, written with no thought of their going beyond the limits of the home circle, and whose i)reservation is due to a mother's interest in them, are given publicity in their original form, believing that in their unaffected and familiar style they will be more attractive and serve better the ])nrpose in view, than a more formal account of the experiences related in them. A. M. C. D. AN APPRECIATION The experiences and achievements of Dr. C. W. Drees in Spanish America have been various and monumental, and those relating to Mexico are fairly but not extrava- gantly set forth in this volume. The writer has been his constant and sympathetic companion and co-worker, and has had no small share in the toils and triumphs here recorded. He graduated from the Ohio Wesleyan University in 1871, and from the School of Theology of Boston Uni- versity in 1874, when he was appointed a missionary of the Methodist Episcopal Church to the Republic of Mexico. Here he spent twelve years, acquiring a thorough mastery of the Spanish language and carrying forward important work. In 1887 he was sent to Eastern South American, where he has spent twenty-one years, residing most of that period in Buenos Ayres, the capital of Argentine Republic. During an interval of four years he was stationed in Porto Rico, superintending the organization of the Meth- odist Episcopal Church in that island. At this writing he is in Spain, assisting in the revision of the Spanish Bible for which, by reason of his familarity with the Spanish language and scholarly attainments, he has special fitness. From 1888 to 1912, as Corresponding Secretary of the Missionary Society and of the Board of Foreign Missions of the Methodist Episcopal Church, I was closely related to Dr. Drees, and gladly bear testimony to his fidelity, 7 8 AN AI'I'KKCIATION tlili<,'(Mi('0, ability, and snccpss. During a considerable l>ait of the lime spent in South America, Dr. Drees was treasurer of the mission and was noted for accuracy and skill in the nianaKement of financial affairs in general, and in not a lew crirH-il and inii)ortant instances. The cause of Protestant Missions in Spanish America will be greatly enhanc ed by the jniblication of this volume. New York Citv. A. B. Leonard. A PERSONAL WORD My part iu the responsibility for this book is limited almost absolutely and entirely to consent to its prepara- tion and publication; and such consent has been given only in deference to the opinion expressed by many who had come to know of the existence of the letters, of which it is almost entirely made up, that the account they contain of experiences as recorded at the time and with- out any expectation of their publication, or even of their preservation, would be of interest to many and of service to the cause of missions. The preservation of the letters, unknown and unsus- pected for all the years till long after our removal from Mexico to South America, was due to the tender love of a mother who could not bring herself to destroy any line that had come to her from her children so far from home, and passing through experiences which were often to her the occasion of keen apprehension and anxiety. It has seemed to me best that, if published at all, they should retain all the characteristics they bear as giving impressions and experiences of current days and events, unchanged by any process of later reflection or attempted completion. Here will not be found biography, nor his- tory, nor continuous travel description. There is no dis- cussion of problems of missionary theory or practice. Mexico as a mission field has found other authors to represent it, notably among them the first superintendent. Dr. William Butler, and his son, the Rev. J. W. Butler, D.D. Missions in Roman Catholic countries have been 10 A PERSONAL WORD widely discussed iiiid advocated, and are better under- stood than when I was called into this lield. These letters may allord some illustrations of both themes, but they are uot an ordered discussion of them. My call to Mexico came within less than a year after the openinj; of the mission, and came throuj^h two magnificent leaders of the church. Bishops Gilbert Haven and Matthew Simpson. The former had preceded the newly appointed superintendent, Dr. \\'jlliam Butler, in enter- ing and exploring the field; had been joined by the latter,, and visited INiebla, which was to be my field, and fixed his uiind u])on the property which was to be the home of the mission and missionary in that city. His exph^ration accomplished, and the general lines of the projected work laid down in consultation with Dr. Butler, Bishop Haven took his journey homeward, over- land, full of generous enthusiasm, to look for money and men for the enterprise. It so turned out that on his way he spent a Sunday in Xenia, Ohio, my ciiildhood home. Having preached in the forenoon in the First Church, both churches united in the evening at Trinity, i to hear an address by the bishop on Mexico. At its close, with many of the C(»ngregation, my jtarents i were introduced to the bishop with the remark that they i had a son in preparation at Boston for the ministry'. ; Turning to my mother, the bishop said : "You have a I boy in Boston Theological Seminary? Will you give him to me for Mexico?" The answer was a prompt nega- tive, and not till long afterwanl did the mother say a word of the pang that shot to her heart with the bishop's demand. \ little inoi'e than a year later, her boy was at Iiome for the farewell visit, the uuthought-of having come to pass; and in one of those holy confidences between mother and son, she i
iiointnient of John W. Huth'r and myself ti) the lield. In be followed two years later by Samuel 1'. Cra\er and Samuel W. Siberts, who came out as married missionai-ies. We four formed the first quaternion at the orders of o\ir chief. We had been fellow students in the liosloii School ol' Tlieology, and, of course, had many things in common. Later came .1. M. Barker and 0. S. Umpleby, also from A PEKSONAL WORD 13 Boston; A. W. Greenman and Duston Kemble from Gar- rett Biblical Institute; L. B. Salmans and G. B. Hyde from Drew Theological Seminary; and L. C Smith, who had passed his missionary apprenticeship in the "Taylor Missions" in Chile, and was full of evangelistic zeal. We were a congenial band of workers ; knew each other well; with little disparity in age between us. We knew each other's faults and foibles, as well as virtues; we could differ in judgment, give and take in discussion, and, above all, rally ever to the standard. The friendships formed were abiding, and it was my good fortune to be associated with some of the band in later years in South America, where the needs of the work called for others as well as myself. Greenman, Graver, and Siberts of the parent board, and Misses Le Huray, Swaney, and Hewett of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, all were trans- ferred to South America, in response to the call of emer- gencies in that field. Of the missionaries of the Woman's Foreign Mission- ary Society, my associations were chiefly with Misses Hastings and Warner, who had preceded me in arrival, and with Misses Swaney, Le Huray, Mulliner, and Loyd. These women entered upon the field, faced its difficulties and discouragements, solved its first problems in relation with the womanhood of Mexico, won its first successes in Mexico City, Pachuca, and Puebla, and laid the founda- tions of the magnificent work whose marvelous develop- ment is the pride of their society and of the mission. Over the names of the Mexican brethren of that period one would delight to linger and preserve here the me- morial, were it not already written in the deeds they wrought and the service they rendered to the cause of the reformation of their native land. Felipe N. Cordova, a soldier of his countiy in the vindication of its liberties 14 A T»ERSONAL WORD before he betanie a soldier in the cause of its moral and s|»iritual rofreneration ; Simon Loza, broup:ht to Christ iiud 1 rained in serviee for a widely useful ministry under the influence of S. P. Craver; Monroy, the martyr, and Ferniuidez and Espinoza, the pioneers; Austin Palacios, former priest and distinguished servant of Konie until he became one of the very first converts to the truth of the gospel and, after much and effective service in arous- ing his countrymen, brought to Methodism the tribute of his ripest ministry — these with others formed the older staff. Then came the men who formed the first classes in the Theological Seminary, which it fell to me to establish in I'uebla. They were my "boj^s," if I may venture to make use here of the familiar term; Luders, at once student and teacher, Abundio Tovar, Emigdio Coronel, Conrado (Janiboa, Justo M. Euroza, Pedro Flores Valderrama, Severo Lopez, Benjamin N. Velasco, and after them Nor- bert Mercado, Ignacio Chagoyan, and others. Memories of them, or most of them, in the class room, of their oi)ening work in the field after they had been thrust out to complete their preparation, Methodist fashion, in the itineracy, of their trials and triumphs, of long leagues on horseback with them in the sierras of I'uebla and Hidalgo, and over the plains of Guanajuato, mostly unwritten history — but service inwrought with llie development of the Mexico mission — of all this only the barest mention may here be made. Of those namela di- los Angeles. As soon as I know enough Span- ish to know whether anyone accosting nie is a friend or foe, I am to go thither. The city of Puebla is the second city in inij)ortance in the republic, and is situated about ninety niiles southeast of Mexico City. It has sixty or seventy thousand inhabitants. It is the sacred city of Mexico, and is credited with being the most devotedly lioniisli of all Mexican cities. One attempt to establish Protestant services there several years ago was repulsepressiou of the priests, who seek "ever}' man his own, not the things that are Jesus Christ's." Next Sunday some representatives from an Indian town fourteen leagues away are coming all that distance to learn more of that truth of whose brightness they have as yet seen but the first faint glimmer. There lives here in Puebla an Indian of some influence in his village who, for years, has been learning gradually the deception of the priests and their mercenary aims. He conceived the desire that his son should be educated and fitted to be an instrument in elevating and freeing his people. He therefore moved to Puebla where he placed the boy in school. He has come to know some- thing of the Bible and its value, and now desires that his son shall fit himself to be a Protestant preacher to his people. In these feelings the son, about sixteen or seventeen years of age, fully shares. For weeks he has not failed to be present at any one of our services, and wants to put himself under my instruction, to be fitted for the ministry. As speedily as possible, I intend securing about half a dozen such 3'oung men, and forming the nucleus of a biblical school^ whose object shall be to prepare them for evangelistic work. Of course its beginnings must be very humble and the training very imperfect, compared with what it ought to be and will bo, in after years, by God's blessing. The niiignitude of this work, in its multiplied demands, overwhelms me I O that more men were sent out to help lay the foundations deep and broad for tlie future of the Methodist Church in Mexico! My plans are so many and my jtowers to execute so limited, that it can scarcely be otherwise than the results should very scantily fill out the scheme. THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 53 All the newspaper tidings I have received lately from the States represent the condition of things there as well-nigh disastrous and hopeless. I hope this is over- drawn. It saddens me to hear such news, for I never loved my native land as I do now. . . . In a letter, written the latter part of July, he men- tions having performed his first marriage ceremony. He writes also, in detail, of a proposition made to the First Church of Xenia, to support and educate one of the boys in the orphanage, and suggests that they become respon- sible for |60 a year for his maintenance, he to select one of the brightest and most promising ones, and send his name, age, and photograph, to be made use of to aid in raising money. He was also to keep the Sunday school informed of his progress, and teach the boy himself to whom he was indebted for his education. He expressly states, however, that this contribution is not to interfere with the regular Conference missionary appropriation; the full amount of that to be raised first, and over and above that the support of the boy. This was done and kept up for many years, with never failing interest and enthusiasm. He adds: The reports of the mightly revivals of re- ligion now being witnessed in Europe, and to some degree in America, seem like Pentecostal times. I am some- times sorely tempted to long for the privilege of preach- ing the gospel in my mother tongue. Still, I know that the work in which I am engaged is no less important than that in the homeland. Indeed, it is even more important, because it is laying the foundations of gospel truth where error has so long prevailed; foundations upon which in after years, if not soon, shall be built a spiritual church. So, I ask for patience and strong faith, to toil on here and look for the harvest. . . . 54 THIKTEIi:N YEAKS IN MEXICO (To his Mother) PuEBLA, August 17, 1875. The last few days have been exceeding!}- bus}' ones for me, finishing up work on our chapel, preparatory to the dedication, which occurred last Sunday. I inclose one of the printed notices, and although in Spanish, you will see at all events that we took good care to announce our movements and invite the people. The result was very favorable. The chapel was well filled and the congrega- tion very quiet and attentive for the most part. The ma- jority were of the lower classes, but there were also a goodly number of well-to-do people. It was an interest- ing company. About two hundred were present in the morning and as man}' in the e\'ening. Brother John Butler came down from Mexico and I)reached at niglit, and his brother Edward played the organ. All passed ott' very quietly, although there had been some serious threats. The government furnished us ample protection. Our chai)el is very neat and pretty. The ceiling is a dome, supported on arches; the walls are light blue, with the cornices and trimmings white. The pulpit is a double, circular platform, the desk of a beautiful wood, not un- like cedar, polished and varnished in its natural color. The balustrade is of the same, and the balusters black. The communion table is of Puebla marble, translucent and beautifully polished, set in a black frame. The carpet is red and black. I am in hopes our congregations will speedily fill the chapel, and call for a larger place of worshij). That we have been able, without any disturbance, to ojjen a Prot- estant church side by side with a Komish one, and that in an ancient convent, in the city of Puebla, is a great triumph; greater tlum you can well apjireciate. Many people express their surprise at what we have been en- THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 55 abled to accomplish. "It is the Lord's doing and mar- velous in our eyes !" Two young men, one twenty-five, the other eighteen years of age, have been sent to me, and they with my native helper, are to form the nucleus of a theological school under my direction. I have to begin with them almost utterly without books or other aids, and try to train them into efBcient preachers of the truth. Rather a great undertaking, you will say, for one who knows so little about preaching himself. Well, so it is. But what are we to do? we must have native preachers. Men who have already trained minds and are fit for the work, will not dedicate themselves to it, so we must take such young men as do offer, give them such help as we can, and then thrust them out into the fields that are already white for the harvest. I expect the number of these will be considerably increased by the first of October, so as to form quite a respectable class. To-morrow Brother Ludlow and family leave here for Pachuca, and I shall then be left without any English- speaking assistance. My duties and distractions will, in consequence, be increased. Meanwhile, under all this pressure, I am struggling forward as best I may in my Spanish, making some progress, as I venture to hope. . . . PuEBLA, August 30, 1875. My dear Mother: I am now keeping bachelor's hall. I have a servant girl who comes every morning and stays all day. She cooks for me h la Mexicana, and I get along with it very well. My only companion at the table is a cat, which has attached herself to me. I have made the acquaintance of a German lady, the wife of a physician, who has been very kind. She was brought up among the Moravians, and so understands 1: 56 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO more of spiritual religion than most of her country peo- ple. She has been so long without church privileges and spiritual helps that she feels herself in a backslidden state. The first time she came to church the tears rolled down her cheeks in a flood from the old memories that stirred in her heart. For the last two weeks I have had an intermittent fever which, while not confining me to bed, has made it impossible for me to do more than oversee things about the establishment. The fever seems now to be broken, and I am feeling much better this morning. Before you receive this, I will have passed my birth- day — twenty-four years old. I doubt not you will re- member it. Pray for me that if I live another twenty- four years they may bear much fruit for the Master. . . . (To his Father) PuEBLA, September 5, 1875. No doubt 3'ou and mother are in Cincinnati to-day en- joying Conference, that annual feast of tabernacles, at least in a sense. Such opportunities are among the things whose loss I feel very keenly, for hearing and associating with God's approved workmen would be a means of edu- cation and a stimulus which I very much need. So I read the accounts of camp meetings, conventions. Con- ferences, etc., sometimes with a half feeling of regret. I am too young to be thrown so utterly upon my own re- sources. It is not impossible that my intellectual and even my spiritual growth may be stunted or misdirectecL Still, when I look at the other side of the matter, and consider the vast opportunities of usefulness here af- forded, and see what by (Jod's blessing has already been accomi)lished. I can only rejoice in the privilege of being engaged in such a work. As for the rest I can trust God and try to work faithfully. If I sutler from the lack of I THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 57 the means of grace it is my own fault, for the Bible I have, and the Holy Ghost can work in Mexico as well as in Ohio. Our congregation, which began seven months ago with five, has grown to eighty, and this in spite of the fact that in the meantime another congregation has been estab- lished by another Protestant denomination. The degree of sectarian prejudice manifested by some of the de- nominations is a shame to our Protestant faith! By God's help we have thus far kept above such petty and unworthy jealousies, and will do so to the end. . . . Orizaba, September 24, 1875. I left Puebla a week ago to-day, on the present trip, partly for my health, partly for work. It was thought a change of air would be beneficial and perhaps break up the fever which has been troubling me lately. I stopped off in Apizaco to prospect a little and ex- amine a site offered for mission house and church. Apizaco is a railroad town, probably more like some of our Western towns than any other place in Mexico. It has sprung up where there was formerly no town, and owing to the establishment of railway shops and manu- facturing establishments, has grown very rapidly and is looked upon as an important point for a mission sta- tion. It is only two hours by train from Puebla, and belongs to my district. The Romanists have already built their church, though it is still in an unfinished condition. A curious story was told me of the strife among the Romish parishioners as to the choice of a saint, for every church must have its patron saint. One party favored the election of an image of the Virgin, which is said once to have winked, but after a heated controversy, the opposing party triumphed and 58 THIKTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO their favorite idol was set up. But in the night, the partisans of the Virgin whose image had performed the prodigy of winking, broke into the church, tore down the opposing image and made general havoc. The blame was sought to be laid on the innocent Protestants, and in the end the winking idol was set up, I will not vouch for the details, but anyone who knows the Mexican populace will admit that such an occurrence is not at all impos- sible. O how they need the gospel ! I finished the afternoon's work, found a lodging, and got to bed early, as I had to take the train at three o'clock the next morning, I reached here after a seven hours ride, which was very interesting and enjoyable. Orizaba is a large city, situated on the border of the "tierra caliente," or hot land of the coast. Its climate is very different from that of Mexico City and Puebla, much warmer and moister. Its foliage and fruits are tropical and very beautiful. In the season, December, oranges are more abundant here than apples ever are at home. Imagine a market where twelve dozen beautiful oranges are sold for eighteen cents! Orizaba presents a ver3' picturesque appearance to the foreigner. The houses are generally low, of one story, roofed with red tiles, with wide eaves projecting far over the sidewalk. Everywhere through the wide entrances to the houses you look in upon a wilderness of foliage. On Sunday I preached three times — twice in Spanish and once in English — and after the evening service ad- ministered the Lord's Supper to a large number of people. Early Monday morning I climbed the mountain which rises a thousand feet above tlie city, and on wliose sum- mit was fought a battle during the French intervention. The ruins of a fort and the burial jdace of the slain are still visible. The view from the summit is most beautiful, including the city, the wide and fertile valley, with its THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 59 winding streams, orange and banana trees, and other rich tropical vegetation, all hemmed in by the precipitous slopes of the mountains which, green and wooded to their summitSj rise to a greater altitude than that at which the observer stands. While we stood there, the train from Vera Cruz came rushing up the valley, her mighty engine puffing and snorting as if anxious for the long climb that would place her on the elevated central table land of Mexico. Coming down we met a Mexican matron with her brood of handsome daughters, mirthfully climbing the hill, all well dressed but without hat or bonnet, articles largely discarded by the fair sex in this latitude. Breakfast over we took a coach and drove out to In- genio, about five miles distant. There a large volume of water bursts suddenly out of the mountain side, pure and clear. It is the outlet of a lake many leagues distant among the mountains. Its waters come all this distance foaming in the heart of the mountain and, freed from their prison, go rejoicing down the valley only to be as- signed the commonplace task of turning the immense turbine wheels of a cotton factory and paper mill. The water was so fresh and clear that I yielded to the im- pulse and stripping off my clothes plunged in for a bath, and a delightful one it was ! Tuesday morning early. Brother Stephens, who is preacher in charge of Orizaba, and the other half of the "we" in this letter, and myself took the train for Cor- doba, about twenty miles away, to establish a congrega- tion in that city. I preached Tuesday and Wednesday night, and though the weather was exceedingly bad, had good congregations, at least fifty the second night, and a very favorable opening for our work. We were called at half past three and took the omnibus for the railway station, which is some distance from the 60 THIRTEEN YEAKS IN MEXICO towu. They net us down in the mud about a hundred yards from the station and, loaded down with our bag- gage, we had to flounder about in the darkness till we found our way to terra firma and a cup of hot coffee. We finally reached Orizaba about six o'clock. Preached again last night. I stay here till Monday, preaching at the three services on Sunday and llieii am off for I*ue- bla. . . . PuEBLA, October 18, 1875. My dear Mother: The long successions of church festivals celebrated at this time of the year, commencing with the feast of Santo Domingo, and going through that of San Augustine, San Francisco, Santa Teresa, and closing up with the feast of Our Lady of the Rosary, is just ended. Most of them are honored in a nine days' festival, but the latter saint is deemed worthy of a preeminence which is indicated by fifteen days' festivities. As the image, which was at one time incredibly wealthy, stands in the church of Santo Domingo, adjoining our mission premises, we were right in the midst of the celebration. From the first day of the prescribed period, the houses of the faithful in all the vicinity of the church are ex- pected to be illuminated by lamps or paper lanterns, hung from the balconies. A printed notice to this effect is circulated by the priests, accompanied often with a poem, panegyric of the saint, ascribing to him or her all honors, not even withholding those due to God alone. A prose translation of one of these effusions, celebrating the glories of Saint Dominic (juznum and Saint Francis of Assist, founders respectively of the monkish orders of Dominicans and Franciscans, is as follows: "To them the world owes its life, since in proof of their quenchless love thev disarmed the sacred right lianortuni1y. Come yourself, if possible; if not, send Jenny. I THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 63 (To his Mother) November 10, 1875. I seem to have become very well knovrn now, all over the city, and scarcely ever go into the street without receiving some token that my presence here is not very highly esteemed by all parties. Often I hear muttered words of hatred, id no doubt many a curse is impre- cated upon my he? "^ continually meet persons to whom I have been intro .ed and who havejjeen very friendly in private, but t nen they encounter me on the street, they take particular pains not to see me; not that they are opposed to our work or lack good will, but it would compromise them, socially and commercially, to be known to be friendly to the Protestant minister. Amid such obstacles and others, which spring from the violent hatred of many, we have to build up our work slowly. A few years will, I trust, make a, vast change. I have just received the Minutes of the Cincinnati Con- ference, and am utterly surprised and astonished at the language of Dr. Butler's letter! This with all the other flattering things overwhelms me. How unworthy I am of such esteem ! May God make me all that these things imply, and all you would hope! . . . CHAPTER III PuBBLA, January 11, 1876. J)ear Father: I cannot tell you how glad I am to have Jenny with me; it has done me a great deal of good already. When I knew by telegraphic dispatch that she was in Vera Cruz, I was in a perfect fever of excitement till the moment I saw her. I went down the road as far as the place where the trains from Mexico and Vera Cruz meet each other, and then passed over into the up-train altogether unexpectedly to Jenny. You may imagine our mutual delight at the meeting! She will no doubt write you how well I am looking, and how much better she found things than she expected. She seems contented and happy, has not a word of com- plaint, and if she is at all homesick bears up under it nobly. She makes the beds, sews on my buttons, is going to darn my stockings, and in odd times practices on our cabinet organ. We have called on several of my friends who are all greatly captivated with her. Last night we took tea and spent the evening at the German Consul's, where we were pleasantly entertained. I received this morning a note from Mrs. Butler, con- gratulating me on my sister's arrival, and pressing us very urgently to go to Mexico City very soon to visit them. I do not think there is any danger of Jenny's getting very homesick. She will be too busy, and she has so certain and speedy a prospect of returning home. I do not allow myself to think much of the time when she must leave 64 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 65 me; that is, if it be impossible for me to go home with her. I tried to explain, in my last letter, the difficulties in the way of my going this year, though I am really anxious to do so if possible. Brother Graver and wife, new missionaries, arrived by the same steamer on which Jenny came. I am expecting a visit from them at the end of the month. They are to go to Guanajuato (change the u's into w's and the j into h, and you will pronounce it right). It is said to be a very dangerous place, perhaps more so than Puebla was thought to be a year ago, but, as has been the case here, no doubt they will find the wa}^ open before them. I doubt if there be any place in all Mexico where a man of ordinary courage and prudence could not make his way and meet with success. Another missionary, S. W. Siberts, and his wife are expected in a few weeks to go to Queretaro, the scene of the execution of Maximilian. I am now in excellent health and weigh more than when I left home. . . . January 31. Jenny and I went to Mexico City a week ago at the cordial invitation of Mrs. Butler. I returned home the following Monday, leaving her for a longer stay. Mrs. Butler and Mrs. Foster are both very fond of Jenny and speak in terms of high admiration of her, so I do not know when they will let her come back to Puebla; soon, I hope, for I miss her very much. She has met a great many nice people and seems to be enjoying herself ex- ceedingly. She is in perfect health, and I think you need feel no anxiety about her. . . . February 21. Just now there is quite an extensive revolution going on in Mexico. The State of Oaxaca, two hundred miles 66 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO south of here, is all iu arms. Part of the State of Puebla also is in rebellion and the government troops have al- ready suffered cue defeat. What the end will be it is im- possible now to foresee. The trouble arises from alleged arbitrary i>rocedure of the central government, in viola- tion of the federal constitution, together with the sup- posed design of President Lerdo to reelect himself, con- trary to the popular will, in the approaching presidential election. The government is evidently in great straits for men and money. Large numbers of men are being pressed into the army, in a most unrepublican style. The govern- ment sends out squads of soldiers into the streets, and wherever they see a poor man who looks as though he would make a soldier, they seize him and march him off to the barracks like a criminal. Remonstrance is useless and there is no appeal. It is still hoped that the legiti- mate authorities will triumph without delay. Whether I'uebla is to be the scene of a siege, as in former years, is as yet doubtful, though it seems im- probable from the fact that it is now so nearly connected by the railway with the capital whence large bodies of troops can be sent, on a few hours' notice, for its defense. In case of danger, I shall place Jenny in the German Consulate, where she will be perfectly safe and with very kind friends. I write you all these facts to forestall the sensational items of home newspapers. All this trouble has si)rung up in an almost incredibly short time. When I wrote for Jenny and when she arrived here, I had not the slightest suspicion of this. We hope it may^ pass over as quickly as it has arisen. War news travels very slowly and is very unreliable in Mexico, and though there are telegraph lines in every direction, we are ignorant for days of what is passing within fifty miles of us. . . . THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 67 Ten days later, the revolution still continuing and spreading to an alarming extent, he sent his sister back to Mexico City. PuEBLA, March 13, 1876. My dear Mother: This has been one of the most exciting days I have ever experienced ; thank God the night has fallen about us in peace and tranquillity. Yesterday passed as quietly as usual, and also the greater part of the night, but this morning Puebla awoke to the greatest uproar and alarm. Between three and four o'clock, the Eighth Battalion of the federal troops of the line stationed here, "pronounced." This is a Mexican term which means that these troops renounced allegiance to the existing, legal government of President Lerdo and declared in favor of Porfirio Diaz, the rival candidate for the presidency. This kind of a pronouncement always involves a resort to arms. The Eighth Battalion was soon in movement, and those of its officers who would not participate in the rebellion were speedily bound and imprisoned. The troops were immediately put on the march, with the purpose of mak- ing the circuit of the other barracks and strong points of the city, and taking possession of them. Driving be- fore them what little resistance they met, in the course of three hours they made the circuit of half the city, taking possession of the quarter called La Luz, of San Francisco and San Jose. Their next point of attack was the public prison where, after some sharp fighting, they gained possession, and, opening wide the doors, let loose upon society a horde of the most desperate and abandoned characters. All this was, however, but preliminary. Having armed such of their new allies, the prisoners, as they could provide with weapons, the leaders arranged the attack on the Plaza, OS THIKTEEX YEAKS IN MEXICO or inin(ij>.il piihlic square of the city. All being ready, I hey iii()\c(l ill two main bodies, numbering together about lour Iniiidred men, ah)ng two parallel streets leading to this IMaza. Uere the final, and as it proved in the event, somewhat successful resistance awaited them. Tlie loyal troops had been stationed in the government buildings, the cathedral, and the bishop's palace, all of which command the Plaza and its approaches. In these positions, though much weaker in numbers, they had a decided advantage over the disturbers of the peace. The latter had to attack openly a foe concealed on the house- tops and behind the lofty parapets and towers of the cathedral. Notwithstanding these dilliculties, they fouglit well and, having taken possession of some adjacent build- ings, finally succeeded in dislodging the government soldiers from the Governor's Palace, of which they then made themselves owners. They then kept up a continual fusillade against the cathedral, which was answered with spirit by the defenders of that point. Here, however, ended their triumphs! The cathedral was too easily defensible, and com- nuinded too thoroughly the other points defended by the government troops, to permit the taking by assault either the former or the latter. The only recourse was to wait for hunger to bring the besieged to terms, but this was also impracticable, for a few hours might bring govern- ment troops to the spot to relieve the besieged and cut in pieces the besiegers. Under these circumstances, it was determined to march out of the city, take a few hours for rest and reorganization, expecting meanwhile the arrival of considciable bodies of rebel troops marching against I'lH'hla. So the bugle called "the assembly," and in a short time the rel)els had retired in good order beyond the limits of the city. It was eleven o'clock when the firing ceased and the THIETEEN YEATJS IN MEXICO 69 city began gradually to become once more tranquil. The number of dead and wounded is variously reported from twelve to thirty. One thing is certain, that the pave- ments of the principal streets of the city are freely stained with blood. The firing was at times very hot ; at others almost ceased. Being on the roof of our house, where I could see and yet be amply protected from ran- dom balls, I could hear the continual whistle of rifle balls above my head, often very near. We have always had a little reason to fear that, on such an occasion as that of to-day, the fanatical people would avail themselves of the opportunity to do us some harm. But in the greatest excitement of this morning no one seemed even to think of the Protestants. We are all safe and well, and persuaded that God will take care of us always, and make all this political and social trouble turn out to the furtherance of his blessed gospel. I telegraphed Jenny this afternoon of my safety, tell- ing her not to come to Puebla till I sent for her. . . . Vera Cruz, April 5, 1876. Dear Father: You will no doubt be very much surprised at the un- expected return of Jenny. It is a great trial to me to have her visit cut short, but the unfortunate state of things in Mexico, and especially in that part of it where I am stationed, makes it advisable. Puebla is almost the seat of war, nearly all the state in revolt, and the city threatened with attack and siege. Notwithstanding all this, Jenny might have remained longer if it had been certain that I should be able to accompany her home in six or eight weeks from now, as I had hoped to do, but the revolution has made all that uncertain. My work has suffered a good deal and needs my presence. I cannot leave Puebla until the present 70 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO troubles are over, or at least till that part of the republic where my work lies has been completely pacified. A good opportunity for her to go home presented itself in the return of Colonel Foster's family to the States, as nearly every one who can at all leave is getting out of the country. I need not say how great is my disappoint- ment at not being able to accompany Jenny home. I could not say good-by to her in Puebla, so, in spite of the expense, determined at least to see her on board the steamer. I sit here in the hotel as I write, and looking out over the blue waters of the Gulf, think how delightful it would be if I were to go too to-morrow, instead of being left behind. I expect I shall be very lonely when I get back to Puebla again. I feel I ought to thank you and mother for lending her to me so long. She was a real blessing to me. . . . Two months later the country was still in such an un- settled state that communication with the coast or even with the capital was very uncertain. The attention of the government which had been diverted temporarily from the State of Puebla, by the occupation of Mata- moros by General Porfirio Diaz, had again been recalled there by later events; the revolutionary troops had been constantly gaining in numbers and resources until they seriously threatened the city, and the government finally sent one of its best generals with such troops as could be gathered to attack the enemy. He writes June 5 : General entered Puebla yes- terday with a mere remnant of his shattered force, with- out arms or ammunition, having been utterly defeated. It is said that Ihirteen hiiiuircMl men were killed out of four thousand engaged on both sides. Within a week another severe defeat has been added to the long list of reverses which the government has met with in this cam- THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 71 paign. Whether it will be able to recuperate its losses and subdue the revolution remains to be seen. Of course we can have no interest in this struggle except to desire and pray for a speedy end to the fearful destruction of human life, and the triumph of law and prevalence of peace. I have seen in some of the home papers statements which represent the principles of the revolutionists as reactionary in their tendency, and favorable to the Ro- mish Church. I think such representations are altogether untrue. The church has stood aloof altogether in this struggle. It has little to gain or lose in the issue, and takes little interest in it. The revolutionists are just as liberal as is the government of President Lerdo. One of its leaders, a general in the rebel army, told me months ago, that if there should be such a change in the govern- ment as he hoped for, our work as missionaries would be more favored by the new than by the old government. So do not let anything in the papers cause you anxiety on this point. We may be besieged here within the next two weeks, and we may not be besieged at all, and the latter is the most probable. In any case there is nothing to fear. I doubt not all these things will turn out to the furtherance of the gospel in Mexico. Let us pray and believe that this will be the result ! You will want to know how my work goes on in the midst of all this confusion. AVell, it cannot be doubted that the present unsettled condition of the country is a temporary hindrance. Not a few of our former attend- ants have been pressed into the army ; others do not come for fear of being caught in the streets and put in the army, and new attendants do not come for the same reason. Notwithstanding this, we always have hearers, and our congregation presents a respectable appearance in regard to numbers. I held two extra services last 72 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO week, with the special purpose of praying for an out- pouring of the Holy Spirit. Tliere was a very gracious influence manifest in both services. O, how I long to see a revival here! The children are all well and happy. I wish you could have seen some letters written to their friends by two of the larger boys! How seriously they exhorted them to seek the true religion, and how one of them expressed his joy at the prospect of one day being a preacher of the gospel! One asked me for a Bible to send to his uncle. On the whole, as is to be expected, while some phases of my work are very encouraging and hopeful, I am not free from discouragements and severe trials. But my sufficiency is of God. My occupations are very numerous and take up my time so fully that T can with difficulty keep up my corre- spondence. 1 rise at half past five, and retire at ten o'clock, and yet do not get through with my work satis- factorily. I would get up earlier and go to bed later, but in spite of Mr. Wesley's rules for a preacher, my health won't stand it. (To his Mother) PuEBLA, June 26, 1876. Six long weeks have gone by since I have had a line from you. Your last letter was probably intercepted and carried off by the rebels who stopped the train and carried off the mail bags the very day tbat I ought to have re- ceived it. Since I last wrote, there has been little change in po- litical matters, no decisive inovenients of either party. Yesterday was jirinuiry election day, but very few voted, the vast majority deeming the election a mere farce, since President Lerdo is determined to keep his seat by hook or crook. Many people seem to think this war will last THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 73 a long time, and only end with the destruction of Lerdo. Certain it is that the revolutionary forces show no symp- toms of weariness, and are gaining in numbers and re- sources. One can but recognize the fact that Lerdo represents the legitimate constitutional government of the country, and the real interests of Mexico would seem to be best conserved by the victory of the party now in power. This is certainly true with regard to Mexico's relations with foreign powers. If the government is defeated and over- thrown by armed insurrection, it will undoubtedly beget a lack of confidence in Mexico's power of self-government, and the nations will not so readily enter into commercial relations with her. If on the other hand the government triumphs, Mexico will seem to have taken a long step toward a settled and well established government. I do not pretend to decide upon the merits of the present con- troversy, much less take sides, but I earnestly pray that these troubles may speedily come to an end. I have lately taken two journeys, spending one Sunday in Orizaba, where I preached three times, and one in Mexico City, preaching twice. How I should like to be at home the Fourth of July! I think I shall have to put out the stars and stripes, and get up a jollification that day, on my own account. . . . (To his Mother) July 17, 1876. The war is still going on, with the scale apparently turning in favor of the government. The rebel forces have mostly retired to the mountains, and the national troops are again in possession of many places which the rebels had occupied. The elections are past and Lerdo is prob- ably reelected ; whether legally or not is a disputed point, which may possibly cause a revival of the present conflict 74 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO before the close of the year. Things are certainly in a deplorable condition in this country. One would almost despair of its future were it not for the assurance that God reigns, and can bring order out of confusion, pros- perity and blessing out of apparently great disaster. The present circumstances seem to be very adverse, but the King will know how to work out his own design in it all. Next week an ex-priest, a good preacher, is coming down here from Mexico City to help me for a few days. The people are curious to hear him, and I hope he may awaken a new and abiding interest in many who may come to hear him out of curiosity. . . . We have been fortunate in finding a man who promises > to become very useful to us, not only in the management t of the orphanage and school work, for which he is spe- cially fitted, but also in preaching. He is a German, about thirty years of age, and while not a university man, , has had very thorough gymnasium training, such as is^ to be had only in Germany. He is also a very fine mu- sician. He came to Mexico, as did many others, at the time of the French invasion, and at the close of the war took a position as manager of a large plantation near Orizaba. Being attracted to our services in that city, he finally became a member of our church, and later we employed him in our school there. I have now secured his transfer to Puebla, as my assistant in the orphanage and theo- logical school. . . . October 9, 1876. Our quarterly communion service was held last Sunday night, with about two hundred persons present. AVe had a solemn and profitable time. We have had some special tokens of prosperity lately, one of which I must tell you THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 75 about. A young man whom I have noticed for some weeks as a constant and attentive member of the con- gregation stood up in our meeting Thursday night and proclaimed his faith in the Saviour. He had been a person of very abandoned habits, almost constantly in- toxicated, and a great grief to his mother. A fellow work- man had talked with him about the Protestants, but he was not at all inclined to accept his invitation to come to our services. Finally his companion loaned him a Bible which he carried home and read a few chapters, becom- ing so interested that he besought his friend to take him to the Protestant meetings. He began coming and the good Spirit wrought in his soul so that now he declares nothing can separate him from his new found religious home and faith. Best of all there has been a complete transformation in his life. He has ceased drinking al- together and cast off his old associates and habits, and spends his nights at home reading his precious Bible. His mother, noticing the great change in him, asked what had come over him and he answered : "Why, mother, I have become a Protestant!" The mother, at first hor- rified that her son should be of a sect everywhere spoken against, could not but be reconciled to that which had wrought such a blessed change in her wayward boy, and does not now oppose him. This is not the only incident of a similar character which has come to my knowledge lately, and I hope and trust that they may be greatly multiplied. . . . At the end of October he was called to Mexico City to attend the funeral of a German Lutheran minister, pastor of the German congregation there, to whom he pays this tribute: ''Brother Goethe had traveled very widely and been a very useful minister in many places. A little over a year ago, being afflicted with asthma, he left his home 76 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO aud family in Sacramento, California, and came to Mexico, seeking relief. On his arrival he became very much interested in the mission work, and in the religious welfare of his countrymen. Providentially the way was j opened for the establishment of a German congregation. \ Brother Goethe threw his whole heart into his new work and against many obstacles, not the least of which was the religious indifference of his countrymen. They will- ingly paid his salary and highly respected him, but they I would not attend the preaching services. He performed for them faithfully all the offices of a pastor, visiting them in their homes, baptizing their children, burying their dead, yet often preaching on Sabbath to but two or three persons. "But though his German work seemed almost utterly fruitless, he did a noble work for our Si)anish mission. Having very rapidly acquired a good working use of the language, he immediately began to participate in the Spanish worship, praying, exhorting, and preaching with great fervor and blessed fruits. He endeared himself to all who knew him, and especially to the members of our mission, by the simplicity, sincerity, and purity of his character. "About two weeks ago he fell sick of a low fever. He had struggled through the worst of the disease and begun to amend, and all were filled with hope; when a sudden aggravation of his old trouble, which in his debilitated condition he could not resist, carried him off very sud- denly. The saddest circumstance connected with his death is that his wife had just taken their two j^oungest children to luanston, Illinois, to place them in college, intending to go thence to New Orleans, sailing from there for Mexico. They were both eagerly anticipating the re- union after more than a year's sejtaration. Moreover, the family is left destitute, and the boys will be without THIRTEEN YEA US IN MEXICO 77 means to pursue tbe course of education wliich their father had, with much anxious care and many sacrifices of personal comfort, planned for them." November 17, 1876. My dear Mother: The last few weeks have been a time of much anxiety. The revolution has been gaining ground and now seems more threatening than ever. Some days ago a quite well appointed force left here, under command of General Alatorre, and the government party hoped he would make head against the revolutionists. But he was utterly de- feated yesterday, and all day to-day the fragments of his troops have been coming in. Fortifications have been begun here. Barricades are put up in the principal streets about the public square, and preparations are made to resist an expected attack of the hostile forces. We are left outside of the projected line of defense, which is all the better for us, as we will enjoy greater liberty, and can more easily be supplied with eatables. There is nothing to fear from the pronunciados. In all the excitement of this day we have been altogether un- annoyed, and I think you need not have any anxiety as to what may have passed by the time you receive this note. We are in God's hands and have the pledge of his protection. For nearly two weeks the railroad between Mexico City and Vera Cruz has been interrupted, and the dili- gence route is dangerous. A friend of mine was robbed this week on the road from Mexico here. I think that before the middle of December things will be more tran- quil. I must close so as to get this through to the post oflSce, before the sentinels are placed in the barri- cade. . . . CHAPTER IV PuEBLA, January 1, 1877. One o'clock a. m, Mv DEAR Mother: I have been exceedingly busy about Christmas and New Year's matters, so I can only write a little note to wish you all a Happy New Year. Our Watch Night meeting is just closed. In the earlier part of the evening, we celebrated the Lord's Supper, and I received ten persons into lull connection in the church. The congregation numbered about a hundred and seventy-five. The watch meeting began at ten o'clock, and at least eighty persons remained till the close of the service. So we are launched upou a new year. May it be a better, happier, more successful one than the past ! I want to begin with the new year and live all through its course a life of deeper consecration and more willing obedience than ever before. I am seeking an. THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 87 My husband's first letter home was written from New Orleans, November 24, 1877. My dear Mother: Although we left Cincinnati Tuesday evening, we did not reach Montgomery, Alabama, until Thursday morn- ing. In the evening we arrived at Mobile, but had to wait there till 3 a. m. of Friday. Ada and I took a walk through the town, had a good supper at a hotel, and went back to the train for the night. When morning dawned we were speeding along the Gulf shore, for a large part of the way in full view of the water, with here and there a white sail in the distance. The country was very dif- ferent from the pine barrens of southern Alabama, through which we had passed the preceding day. There were cultivated lands, and villages following each other in quick succession, and we saw orange groves laden with ripe fruit. Even the forests and swamps were full of beauty; the trees hung with gray Spanish moss which, with its somber hue, only made the scarlet-leaved vines and rich green cactuses the more brilliant. This was the pleasantest part of our journey. About five miles out of New Orleans, our train was brought to a stand by a cattle train wrecked on the track, just in advance of us. We had to leave our car, walk past the wreck and take another train sent out to our relief. We finally reached here at ten o'clock this morn- ing, three nights and two and a half days from Cincin- nati! I have purchased our tickets and all is ready for us to go on board early Sunday morning. The steamer is the City of Merida, the one I came home on, but she has been remodeled and is much more comfortable. We are to dine to-night with Dr. and Mrs. Richardson, whom I met and traveled with two years ago in Mexico. He is president of the American Medical Association, the next session of which is to be held in Bufi'alo, next June. 88 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO He is an earuesl Cliristiuu man, and much interested iu Mexico and our work there. . . . A iinriiiij; message of atfeetiun and j^ood theer from us both, went back by the pilot, and then we fared forth to the unknown future. Deak Mother: Orizaba, December 2, 1877. 1 nniy as well continue the chronicle of our journey where I left off iu my last letter. We sailed at eight o'clock, Suuday morning, and with delightful weather and the quiet waters of the Mississippi, we had a most pleasant day until we crossed the bar, about four in the afternoon. Almost immediately after that we began to feel, in an uncomfortable degree, the swell of the ocean, and entered into profoundest sympathy with the heav- ings of the restless deep as it was lashed to fury by the winds. Over our experiences of the next few hours, we will dra\v a veil ! Sufiice it to say there were some mo- ments of mirth as well as dejection. The gale in which we started, died awaj' at last, and we got on very com- fortably until Wednesday morning, a few hours before we should have reached our first port, when a "Norther" blew up, so that when we did get to the usual anchorage ground the sea was running so high that no boat could come off to us. So, as the storm increased, the ship was put before it and we ran about sixty miles southward. The sea then began to break over the stern so violently that nothing could be done but put the ship about and steam to the northward, in the teeth of the wind. All day and night we were tossed about, hardly knowing whether we were in hia. The bishop was our first guest, and how much it meant to us to have him with us, even tho.se few brief days, to be eonvinceay in our services. One of their families presentelace of meet- ing, a tli;itclic(l linl of sun-drictl bricks, about ten by twenty feet in size. A good many people were already there and, by the time service actually began, more than seventy persons were crowded into the room and about the door. As there was no window and no ventilation save by this door, which was low and crowded with peo- ple, you may imagine the boiling heat which we suffered. Bnt after all the interest of the occasion was more than a recomjiense for all its discomforts. There were the swarthy Indian men, seated on rude benches, crowded up close around me and the rough table that served as desk. FartJier away were the women and children, sit- ting on the earthen floor on straw mats. All were in their peculiar costumes, and all i»aid the deepest attention. As a new comer won Id enter, all would salute him and he them, in their own Indian language, perfectly unintelli- gible to inc. In the beginning of ilic service 1 baptized three in- fants, after which I incadicd as simjily and as earnestly THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 97 as I could from John 3. IG. The perspiration poured from me in streams, but I had a good time and as attentive an auditory as I have ever seen in my life. After the preach- ing one of the men addressed me most affectionately and gratefully, and throwing his arms about me gave me a hearty embrace. Then all around I went, embracing the men and shaking hands with the women. When the last farewell had been spoken I mounted and with my guide started on my return ride to Matamoros, as it did not seem prudent to remain longer. I did not know but an ambush awaited me at the outskirts of the village, and the same fear seemed to be in the mind of the brethren, for four of them armed, mounted their mustangs and came with me three miles on the homeward journey. I reached Matamoros at seven o'clock in the evening, having ridden twenty-four miles in the saddle, under a tropical sun. As I am almost utterly unused to riding, it is hardly to be wondered at that I crawled from the saddle to my room like a confirmed cripple. I was up next morning, however, before four o'clock, at which time I took the stage for Puebla. Every jolt was almost agony, but at last at half past five in the afternoon I reached home and rest. I had traveled a hundred and twenty miles by stage and twenty-four on horseback, baptized three children, and preached in these three days. I am not over the efi'ects of it yet, but it paid, and I would start again next Saturday to repeat it if the work de- manded it. . . . May 2,3. Since recovering from a slight attack of intermittent fever, which I seem to have contracted during my visit to Atzala, I have been in usual health. Last Monday I went to Apizaco and made definite arrangements for commenc- ing services there next Sundav. Tuesday I was in Tlax- 98 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO ciihi In secure tlio necessary authorization Iroiu the State govcrmnent. Here in Puebla our work is going forward well, though it seemed likely, for a time, that it would be somewhat seriously interfered with. This was owing to the arrival of an emissary from a sister church, who began visiting among my people, circulating a petition and endeavoring to draw them away from us. When I had reliable information of the course he was pursuing, I gave a short address to our congregation, which opened the eyes of those who had signed the petition, and showetl them the impossibility, which tliey had but dimly under- stood before, of belonging at the same time to two churches. I told them if they wished to leave us, I would gladly give them letters of dismissal, but when they saw they must choose, there was a strong reaction, and I have now little fear that any noticeable imj»ression will be made on our crmgregation when their services are form- ally opened. The same person went to Los Reyes, to try to draw away the Indian villages from us. Whether he has been suc- cessful or not remains to be seen. He has returned to Mexico City with the announced intention of beginning work here next month. There is room enough in this field without one church interfei'ing with another, so let him come, if willing to work in the right spirit. Meantime, to-night, a number of Indians from the very village this person visited last Sunday, are to be here for the celebration of a marriage and the l»apl ism of a diild. ^^'e have had the windows of our church stoned a little of iate, but notliiiij; serious has lia|tpened. The heat is very extreme hei-e just now. and we are longing for* the rainy season to set in. . . . IM-. Mutler has resi;,'ne(l the superintendency of this THIRTEEN YEAKS IN MEXICO 99 mission, on the ground of continued ill health. From the tone of his last letter to me it seems to be his inten- tion to return to the United States in January at the latest, if his health does not require it sooner. I have no hint as to what will be done to supply his place. That is a matter for future adjustment. Brother John Butler has been appointed treasurer of the mission. . . . PuEBLA, July 8, 1878. Since I last wrote you I have made another trip to Apizaco and found the interest and enthusiasm of the people there unabated. We have removed the services to a larger place, provided by one of the members of the congregation and at less than half the rent we were paying. The work there is very interesting and prosperous in We have made a trip to Los Reyes, Ada and I, and as she is writing about it I need not duplicate the story, most regards. One of our congregations numbered over a hundred and forty. The interest is spreading to other villages, and there will one day be a large circuit in that valley. (From my letter home) I must have written you that some time ago about forty people, including several women, came from an Indian village and spent Sunday here. They brought their own food, and most of the time when services were not going on, went wandering about the streets, looking at everything with great interest and curiosity. They were very anxious for some one to be sent to hold some special services and organize a church there, and C. finally decided to go himself. The women of the party urged me with great insistence to go with him, and I was very 100 TUIKTEKN YEAKS IN MEXICO anxious lo do so. 1 niiist admit that ('. did not urge me to go — on the contrary — but I was so enthusiastic about it. and so pleased at the thought of a visit to a real Indian vilhigi'v that he did not o])i)ose it, and I went! It proved a real experience to me. I did not know of the disastrous effects of starting on a journey after a fast of ten or twelve hours and, having no appetite at five o'clock iu the morning, I dispense*! with breakfast. We had to go by diligence, an old style Concord stage-coach, swung on wide leather bands, which gave it a double motion, so to speak, lateral as well as longitudinal. All went well for a short time, but after a few miles my troubles began and continued. C. was engaged in an animated conversation in Spanish with a fellow traveler, but did turn to me every few minutes an t- > After my return from Queretaro I was only here long enough to issue our monthly paper, and then went with Ada to Miraflores for three days, holding the usual series of quarterly services and having a very pleasant visit with Brother and Sister Siberts. We returned on Mondaj^, and on Tuesday night started to Orizava. I was detained there full two weeks, visiting Cordoba in the meantime. We were then a week in Puebla, after which we came home, to prepare another number of our paper. !.-,(; TiiiKTi:i:x yi:aks in Mexico Last Sunday J was in Pachiica; preached three times, administered the Lord's Supper twice and baptized two rhildreu. Returned home Monday evening, and have been very busy ever since with niy oOicial correspondence. I must return there the latter part of next week to take a horseback tour with Brother Barker, exploring some new places and visiting the work already established. Bishop Andrews is to hold the Annual Meeting on February 2. I suppose he will be here about the middle of January, . . . Pachuca, September 17. I reachebors, and it was feared they would attack our train too. C. as usual, did not believe there was any danger, though he did tell me that in case thoy began firing I must drop down between the scats inimediatoly, and stay there. The other American woman and myself felt rather nerv- ous about it, and for an hour or more sat looking out, expecting every minute to hoar or see or feel tho bullets crashing through. At Silao wo wore tnjd that it was not tho freight train that had been tired uikui, but a hand car full of workmen. They came upon the robbers unexpectedly, suq>rising them in the act of ])utting (»bstiMictions on tho track, probably preparing foi- tho jtassongor train. Tho workmen wore well armed, however, and ilio robbers had to retreat. Here wo met a young American, about nineteen, en- THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 175 gineer on the road from Silao to Guanajuato. The day before as he was backing the train, the engine ran over and killed a man who was walking on the track. The boy, however, did not know it and went on to Silao and came back, only to find officers and a guard waiting for him, with an order for his arrest. They tied his hands behind him, put him on a horse and carried him off to prison be- tween two mounted guards with drawn swords. One would have thought they had a fierce and dangerous des- perado to deal with instead of a slender boyish fellow such as he was. Arriving at the prison, they announced that he was guilty of murder, and had him consigned to a dungeon. He was allowed, however, to telegraph his father, who lives in Silao, and who is also an engineer. He took a special engine and went to the boy at once, heard his story and then called upon the Governor, stating the case. The Governor gave him an order for the immediate release of the boy and he took him home with him, so he was in prison only a few hours. At Silao we went to the hotel and had supper, and afterward called on Mr. and Mrs. Skilton. They insisted on our staying all night with them and sent to the hotel for our baggage. We spent a most pleasant evening. They are delightful people and among the most hospitable Americans we have met in Mexico. Early the next morning we left Silao by diligence for Guanajuato, arriving there about noon. We stayed at the Mission house, though Mr. and Mrs. Graver were not at home. In the afternoon we took a long walk through the city. It is a very queer place. I do not believe there could be more crooked, irregular streets, and the houses are built on the sides of the hills and so close together that from a distance they look as though they were built on top of each other. Indeed, some of the upper rows of 176 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO houses project over the back rooms of the houses below. The street.s are very uarrow, too, besides being so crooked. Saturday evening they were crowded with niiner.s and a motley lot of other people, the dirtiest and most wretched looking I have yet seen. On Sunday there was Sunday school at nine o'clock, preaching an hour later, and love feast in the afternoon, also preaching and the Lord's Supper at night. There was quite a large attendance at every service. The congrega- tion in Guanajuato is the largest in the Mission. Mr. Loza, the Mexican preacher in charge of the work here during Mr. Graver's absence, was very anxious for me to say a few words to the congregation at the close of the service, but as I did not feel equal to that, he an- nounced my "])resence among them,'' made some very ap- preciative remarks, and asked them to come forward and greet ''the young wife of our beloved superintendent," and assure her of their atTection and sympathy, which they did most heartily. AVe left Guanajuato early Monday afternoon, reached Silao at six o'clock, and there took the train for Leon, arriving about dark. Mr. and Mrs. Kemble were at the station to meet us and we spent three pleasant days with them. One afternoon Mr. K. got a carriage and took us for a long drive in the country. Some parts of it looked much like our own country. At a special service the second night of our stay, C. preached to a congregation of twenty-seven, besides the members of the Mission, which seemed very encouraging, considering the short time since they began work here. Larger congregations are sure to follow. C.'s district now extends from Leon on the north to Cordoba on the south, besides Tachuca and Puebla, which are on branch roads. 1 have been now to every place in the Mission except three or four snuill Indian towns. Mr. THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 177 K. says he thinks an allowance ought to be made for my traveling expenses too, so that I could go with C. always to cheer up the sisters as C, does the brethren. Thursday we were up at four o'clock and started at five for Salamanca, where we arrived about nine, and spent the rest of the day and night there. At the evening service C. preached and administered the Lord's Supper, more than fifty being present. Gamboa, the preacher in charge of this work, is one of those who studied with C. in Puebla. He has a very nice wife, and they are both much beloved. She plays the flute quite well, and at the service that night, I played the organ and she accompanied with the flute, and it was considered a great success. Friday morning we came on here, where I am to remain a few days longer. C. went on to Mexico City and has written me of his safe arrival. He says Mr. Johnston was on the train, and took him forward to ride on the engine with him from Popotla to Mexico City. He enjoyed the experience, though they did knock a donkey off into the ditch and left him, as he says, "a fit object for the chari- table attentions of the S. P. C. A." At another place they came upon a large stick of wood that had been placed upon the rails, evidently with evil intent, but the loco- motive pushed it to one side instead of trying to run over it. C. sent me a copy of the Mexican Financier, a very live paper edited by a bright young American Jew, which has an interesting article in this week's issue, on the arrest and imprisonment of two Americans, accused of speaking evil of the President, of whom nothing too bad could be said. If the Mexican government were not afraid, they would send the editor of this paper out of the country as they did a French editor a few weeks ago, as a "pernicious 178 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO foreigner," but this man represents too large American interests to be dealt with in that way. . . . (From my letter of November 7) We are jnst home from a visit to Pachiica, where we went to attend a dedication service at Real del Monte, a place several miles further on. Real del Monte is over 8,000 feet above sea level, the highest point in the world where a I'rotestant church lias been built, so they say. Mr. Barlver and C. went on horseback from Pachuca, I in a diligence with a party of Cornish people, who were spe- cially interested in the new church. It was nearly one o'clock when we reached our destina- tion and was a long, hot, tiresome drive. The exercises began with a tea meeting, a great institution among P]ng- lish people and very popular. They had arranged such a long program that it was nearly dark when they finished. The formal dedication services were held the next day, and as the church is for both the English and Spanish congregations, dedicatory sermons were preached in both languages. Dr. Fuentes speaking in Spanish and C. in English. It was reported that there was to be an attempt to blow up the place that day, and that a train of powder or dynamite had been laid, ready to set ott' at the proper moment, but if there was such a plan, something inter- fered with it, for everything passed off very quietly. Sunday there was class meeting at 8 o'clock in the morn- ing, Spanish preaching at 11, English at 3 o'clock, Quar- terly Conference in English immediately afterward, Spanish services and a bai)tisin. at night, and after that, Quarterly Conference in Spanish ! C. attended and took I)art in all of them. The next morning there were business matters to attend to, which took up all the time till noon, and at one o'clock we started home. There is a line of horse cars for some THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 179 distance, aud then a diligence line of about an hour, be- fore reaching the railroad. We had an unusually disagree- able journey. The people in the diligence were extremely dirty and some of them smoked so constantly that we were almost suffocated. One big fellow who was evidently much the worse for pulque, made himself particularly obnoxious. Then we had to wait in a cold windy place more than an hour, and when the train finally came, it was very much crowded and the cars had been kept closed until the smoke and foul odors had made the atmosphere almost intolerable. To add to all this, some third class passengers brought a large skin of pulque into the car, and the skin got broken or came untied, and flooded the car with that sticky liquid. We had to put our baggage on the seat and sit on top of it. We finally reached home, however, only half an hour behind time and but tem- porarily the worse for our disagreeable experience. Orizava, November 12, 1882. I arrived here safely j^esterday evening. The day was very pleasant, and the views of the mountains, coming down, charming. Brother Umpleby met me at the sta- tion. He aud his wife are both looking very badly, and seem to be unable to recover from the shock of their baby's death. It is exceedingly depressing here. This morning I met Hilarion Bonilla and his brother on the street, and they came to Sunday school and church to-day. I had a good deal of talk with them, and Hilarion stayed a while with Lopez after I came awaj'. Lopez was called out a moment, and on going back found Hilarion crying. When asked what was the matter, he confessed that he felt very badly for having left the Puebla school as he did, said he knew he had treated us all badly and felt very sorry and would like to go back. It has given me great pleasure to hear this. The boy 180 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO is much grown, was quite well dressed, and looks as though he had no bad habits. I feel as though the seed sown in his mind and heart has not been and will not be fruitless. We have had a very good Sunday; there was a large attendance at the services to-night, and things in genei-al are more encouraging here than I have seen them for some time. To-morrow I shall have to be stirring about lively, looking after that property question. I hope and pray that we may succeed in securing something suitable. . . . During this year, 1882, Mr. Drees traveled in the su- perintendency of the Mission nearly 8,000 miles. On the last day of December, he rode twelve miles on horseback, preached four times, baptized two children, held a Quar- terly Conference and a Watch Night service. CHAPTER X (To his father and mother) Mexico City, January 30, 1883. It is a good while since I have written home, but you know that I am a very busy man these days, especially in the opening of a new year's work, and holding our Annual Meeting. In the absence of a bishop, I was asked to preside this year, and we had a very pleasant and har- monious session. Our work generally is in an encouraging condition, and we have reason to anticipate a prosperous year. There are a good many probabilities that Ada and I will have a six months' vacation, so as to make a visit home this year. I have, however, several important matters to arrange which I feel I must see concluded before I leave. One is the purchase of property in Orizava, another, negotiations for a change of property in Puebla, and a third the repairs on our new property in Queretaro. I am doing all I can to push these things along so as to con- clude them by the first of May. If I succeed in this and no other obstacle should arise, and if our Board of Managers will give us leave of absence, we shall be at home soon after the first of June. The mere anticipation of this is giving us great pleasure already. It seems almost too good to be realizable! I am making arrangements to take with us the young boy, Galdino Gutierrez, of whom we wrote some time ago. I hope to have him enter the Ohio Wesleyan University next September. I have secured nearly enough money to pay his way to the States, and will trust in God for means 181 182 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO for his support at Delaware, hoping for some aid from the Board of Education and friends. I am also counting a little on the cooperation of the young people's society in Xeuia. Can you not lay the case before them, and enlist their interest to the extent of saving their funds for this purpose? Galdino is a good Christian boy and will, I have no doubt, make the best use of his opportunities. The chief reason why I am anxious to have him go to Delaware is that he may be fitted to do thorough, advanced educa- tional work in our Mission here, in future years. He seems well adapted for this, and I have great hopes of him. I hope to be able to do some good, and to get a great deal of good, while we are at home. Pray that the way may be opened up for us to go, and that we may be greatly blessed in so doing. . . . PuEBLA, February 14, 1883. Arrived here in good condition Saturday morning. Brother Siberts met me at the station and brought me to their house. Found them all well and had a warm wel- come from Paul and Bessie. They are very nice children and improving all the time. After dinner I went with Mr. Thomas and his party to Cholula, returning about seven o'clock. It was cool and pleasant, and the evening land- scape and sunset were beautiful. All the members of the party were delighted with the expedition. Sunday 1 preached moi-ning and evening, and spent part of the afternoon with the IMiiladelphia party. They attended church in the morning and gave eight dollars to the collection. Yesterday. Monday, was a very busy day. We were taking action with reference to the purchase of a lot which we hope the Missionary Society will take. Meauwliilc, Brother Siberts and I assume the responsi- THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 183 bility. The matter is not quite finished and I may be de- tained here longer than I had expected to be. This sense of responsibility is sometimes very wearing. Pray that we may be guided aright. Last night we had the largest congregation I have seen here for a long time, larger even than on Sunday night. I feel greatly cheered and encouraged. . . . Orizava^ February 19. My journey from Puebla was uneventful, but I found, on arriving here, a "Norther," with its attendant chill and damp, and it is colder than I have ever felt it in Orizava. Last night we had a good meeting, about seventy being present. I preached and had some liberty, as the old preachers used to say. This morning went out to make inquiries about the house that is offered to us ; found that the party in charge of it knows me and what I want it for, but is entirely willing to sell it to us. I secured the refusal of it till the 27th of this month. By that time we shall know certainly whether there is any other opening. If not, we shall take this property and proceed at once to put it in order for occupancy. I earnestly hope that three or four weeks more will see the Orizava and Puebla properties secured, and repairs planned and underway in those places and in Queretaro. I feel greatly encouraged by the prospect of getting these wearing anxieties off my mind. . . . In March, Mr. Drees again visited Queretaro, Guana- juato, and Leon, preaching and holding the usual quar- terly services in those places, and endeavoring to leave everything in order for a longer interval than usual, in case we were granted a vacation. In April he made similar visits to Pachuca, Puebla, and 184 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO Orizava, succeeding at last in settling up the long delayed property matters, and getting possession of the premises. (From my letter home, dated April 20 ) We have with us now, Galdino, of whom C. has written you, who has a small room to himself; and in the three unlurui.shed rooms on the roof we have quartered a man out of workj with his wife and four little children, Juana, our cook, and her son, a boy of sixteen, Matilde, an old woman without any one to take care of her, and one of the younger boys from the orphanage, who lately lost his place and is waiting for something else to offer. To the credit of all concerned, they get along together most amicably. . . . Mexico City^ May 9. My dear Father axd Mother : It is just nine years to-day since I reached Mexico City, and this morning I received letters announcing that our leave of absence is granted. The Board of Managers of the Missionary Society also took very generous action with reference to some other matters I had pending be- fore them, so this has been a very liapi)y day for us. We are preparing to sail from Vera Cruz by the City of Puebla for New York, by way of Havana, on the 17th, one week from to-morrow. We should reach New York on the 30th. I shall be delayed there two or three days, to consult with Secretary Reid about some matters, and then we shall hasten to Xenia by the quickest route. We are full of thankfulness at this near prospect of seeing you all. We pray that you and we may be graciously pre- served dui-ini:: ilic days that iimst intervene. . . . We sailed Irom ^^'ra ('ni7. as we had planned, taking with us the Mexican boy. (Jaldino, a young English girl THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 185 of seventeen, and a French boy of twelve who were sent by their parents in our care to enter a school near New York. We arrived May 30, Decoration Day, and the day of the formal opening of the Brooklyn Bridge. Early in June we went on to our homes in Ohio, and all our delightful anticipations of a happy reunion with our family and friends were more than realized. To understand what these few months were to us after an absence of more than five years and a half in a foreign laud, and under the circumstances portrayed in these pages, one would need to have a similar experience. As is usual with missionaries on vacation, these months were not spent in idleness. There was a great deal of traveling to do in the interests of the Mission, which Mr. Drees gladly undertook, besides preaching, lecturing, and speaking on Mexico, in various places. The days of rest and relaxation spent in company with his family and friends, and their enthusiastic interest in his work, proved a great inspiration to him and sent him back to his difficult field of labor with renewed faith and courage. On our return to Mexico we sailed from New York, December 13, 1883, by the City of Alexandria, my young- est sister going with us to spend a few months there. The onl}' record of the voyage are letters of mine to my family, the first written from Havana, December 18: We are now in Havana, or rather lying at anchor out in the bay, about half a mile from shore. AVe had very pleasant weather for about thirty-six hours after leaving New York, and then off Cape Hatteras our troubles began. The sea became so rough that every thing not securely fastened was being hurled about, the ship was rolling and pitching, the wind howling and every thing most disagree- 186 THIKTKEN YEARS IN MEXICO able. To add to all this discomfort, every one, even the stewardess, was sea sick. As for ourselves we recovered as soon as the wind lulled, and enjoyed the rest of the voyage very much. There are a few very agreeable people among the pas- sengers with whom we have become acquainted, one, a delightful man who was with Sherman on his march to the sea. There are several Cubans who speak English, and one Cuban lady who informed us that she has had two husbands, eighteen children, and twenty grandchildren. She talks every waking moment, and sings and dances and is the life of the company. We reached here early this morning and when we woke found we were almost in front of Moro Castle. We could see the light in the tower quite distinctly, but the castle itself looked like a huge pile of stone in the dim early light. We dressed and hurried up on deck just as we came to anchor inside the bay. Had coffee and were soon ready to go ashore. Boats of all sizes and descriptions were swarming about the steamer. We selected one and after only a few minutes' row reached the docks. We walked up past the site of the first church built on this continent, marked now by a monument with a stone tablet, giving some history' of it; then up tlirough a pretty little open square, and from there through block after block of shoj)s and stores whose fronts are open to the streets, displaying at a glance all their contents. They looked very cool and inviting, nujst of them having marble floors, and their goods were very tastefully arranged. We came at last to the principal street in the city and sat down in a shady jdace in a i)ark, while C. went to buy us some oranges and bananas. Lou and I were both feeling very dizzy after our five days at sea, but this fruit quite restored us. We then took a small carriage, a peculiar one-seated THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 187 vehicle with an elevated seat in front for the driver, and drove first to the Cathedral, where we heard the end of a mass, then to a very pretty church called La Merced, and from there to the Captain General's gardens, a pretty but neglected place some distance from the center of the city. After that we visited the aristocratic part of town where there are the loveliest and most picturesque houses imaginable, of every color and hue, pale blue, pale pink, and pale yellow, as well as many indefinable shades. We thought we would like to transplant some of them to our Northern clime. At noon we came back to a hotel called the Telegrafo, where we had a delicious dinner. The whole place was most attractive, all the rooms having marble floors, the bedrooms furnished with brass bedsteads, lace canopies, and curtains, all so cool and inviting. After dinner we went on a diminutive railroad out to a suburban town built all along the bay, and the view in every direction was beautiful. We came back to the steamer about three o'clock, tired enough after seeing so many strange and interesting things in so short a time. We are to leave here to-morrow morning for the next port, Progreso, 400 miles further on. The weather here is perfectly delightful. . . . From Progreso there is only a note to say that we reached there the morning of December 21, after a very pleasant voyage of forty-six hours from Havana. Mexico City, December 26, 1883. Dear Father and Mother: It is the night after Christmas, and we have had our first day in our Mexican home after our long, happy summer. We landed in Vera Cruz at noon of the 24th, and I took 188 THIKTEEN YEARS IX MEXICO the gills to the hotel, and then returned to the dock to attend to the baggage. 1 had a long, hard, hot afternoon's work, and did not get through till eight o'clock in the evening. After supper we walked out to the post office to mail our home letters by the steamer which is to sail on Christmas day. Then we walked a while in the Plaza, watching the throng of strangely dressed people, returnc^l to the hotel and retired early. The next morning at five o'clock we were up and our train started soon after six. We caught a fine view of the tranquil sea as we left the town behind us, and in the rosy glow of the early morning we sped away toward the mountains. We had a very bright day and the scenery was unusually fine. I saw Brother Loza, our Mexican minister at Orizava, and had the first report of the state of affairs, which seems generally satisfactory. Ada's brother met us at Otumba, and his appearance produced quite a sensation. We arrived here at 8 i*. m. Brother Butler met us at the station with some other friends. We have had a very cordial reception, and are cheered at the prospect we find on resuming our work. There have been some slight disturbances of the peace here, threatening difficulty. The government, however, seems to have a strong hand upon the malcontents, and I think there will be no revolution. The difficulties are of a political nature and have led to no demonstration against lis as Protestants. It is quite generally understood that General Diaz will be next President. There will be more or loss excitement and uneasiness until the presidential campaign is over, which will not be till after the middle of ISSl. f shall be up to my eyes in work now for many days, in order to bring up arrearages. We are all well and happy. . • . CHAPTER XI Vera Cruz, January 12, 1884. I got started on my journey promptly and had a fairly comfortable time, arriving in good season at Orizava. While the train stood in the station at Apam, I saw Mr. Jackson, the General Manager of this road, who told me he had received a letter from Mr. Spinney about the ar- rival of Bishop Warren, and that if the bishop should so desire, a special car will be attached to the freight train leaving Vera Cruz at 1 p. m. on the day of his arrival, and take him as far as Orizava the same day. Loza met me at the railroad station in Orizava and had a room prepared for me in the Mission house. I talked over some matters with him and went over the property^ which is not as near completion as I had hoped to find it. Another thousand dollars will be needed to get it into anything like a finished condition. I had supper, preached a sermon, administered the communion, and held a long Quarterly Conference, getting to bed quite tired. I had a pleasant meeting with the brethren in Orizava, and found the congregation in good condition and enthu- siastic in their devotion to Brother Loza. Friday morning had breakfast and went at once to the telegraph offices to be sure to get my expected messages promptly. This kept me running about till train time, when I got a message from Markoe that the steamer was behind time and could not get in before Saturday. I came on to Vera Cruz in the evening, having spent most of the intervening time going over Loza's accounts with him and consulting about various matters. When I 189 190 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO left Orizava at 4 r. m. the weather was beginning to look threatening, and as we approached Vera Cruz it became evident that a Norther was qu in force. I never saw or felt Vera Cruz on this wise before ! It is i)ositiv('ly cold and the wind whistles and howls as it would take the roof off the hotel. The waves last night were dashing over the mole, and the water often rolled far within the massive arches of the gates. One ship dragged her anchor and went ashore about half a mile down the coast to keep company with the dismantled hull of a last year's wreck and the helpless remains of a full rigged brig that was swept upon the sands less than two weeks ago. As a group of men were looking down toward the scene of disaster, I heard one of tliem say with evident truth- fulness, that that sandy point is becoming a very campo- santo, a ship's burial ground. The steamer is not even in sight and it is now quite probable she will not be in before to-morrow. The bishop and party will then doubtless go as far as Orizava, and there wait for Monday's train to Mexico City. I shall wait here now until I hear something of them. May the Lord of earth and sky bring them safely through the storm ! It is approaching sunset and though the wind is not quite so strong it has not changed direction. The waves are not so high, but I hear their commotion as I write. I have been so driven of late that I am feeling very tired. I hope after Annual Meeting to slacken speed a little and have a week or two of comparative rest. . . . (To his father) Mexico City, February 24. This is the first opportunity I have had for several weeks to sit down ([uiclly and write a home letter. As THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 191 you know, Bishop Warren and his party arrived on the 14th of January. From that time till Wednesday of this week, my time was incessantly occupied, first with Annual Meeting affairs, and then in accompanying the bishop in the general visitation of the Mission. He visited rapidly all our central Mission stations, in- spected the property and addressed our congregations, his tour closing when he left Puebla last week. I accom- panied him as far as Apizaco, and saw him and his family safely started for Vera Cruz. I have received a letter from him to-day, written just as the ship weighed anchor and got underway. When I reached home I found that Brother and Sister Craver's little girl, a beautiful child three years of age, had died and been buried that day. She had scarlet fever and was sick only three days. Our Annual Meeting had been adjourned but a week when one of our Mexican min- isters died in Queretaro, and I had to hasten thither to attend the funeral. The mother of another of our preachers is now at the point of death, so you see our year is beginning amid sore afflictions. Still we are not dis- mayed. Mrs. Greenman and her children will soon be with us again, and I had news yesterday of the arrival in Vera Cruz of Brother L. C. Smith and family, newly appointed to this field. Brother Butler and wife will leave here in about three weeks on their six months' vacation, just granted them by the Board. They expect to go overland, as the railroad will be about finished by that time. It is now expected that through trains will be running by the 15th of March. The time to New York will be about six days and six hours ; about five days to Cincinnati. The fare from here to the frontier will be less than |60. We will have daily mails in a few days. 192 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO The most novel event of the last few weeks was our as- cent of Popocatepetl. We chose the time of full moon, so as to have light during the early morning climb. I went out to Anieca Meca, a town near the base of the mountain, on Wednesday afternoon, in order to have horses, guides, etc., ready for the next day. Bi.shop Warren, Mr. W. S. Iliff, and Brother Barker came out on the Thursday morn- ing train and Mrs. Warren and Ada came with them, to see us start off on our adventure. I had everything ready and after we had eaten a hasty dinner, we started off at just one o'clock. We had to take with us a box of provisions, and blankets to provide for our comfort during our night on the mountain. We were gotten up regardless of appearances, dressed in old clothes, and with cheap wide straw hats as protection against the sun. We formed quite a cavalcade as we filed out of town. There were the four travelers and the master of horse, mounted upon five as sorry looking beasts as you would care to sec, the pack mule piled high with our provisions and bedding, and the four guides afoot. About a league out of town our road began a rapid ascent of the far stretching ridges and spurs of the moun- tain chain. We crossed deep gulches and mounted lofty ridges of sand and scoriae until we reached the limit of timber growth, not far from 12,000 feet above the sea level. Then a rapid descent for a short distance brought us to our halting place at a ranch, called TIaniacas, which was nothing but a deserted hut or two, once used by the laborers emjdoyed in getting sulphur out of the crater of the volcano. We had ridden nearly five hours and made a distance of fifteen or eighteen miles. From our stopjting place, far off to the east over the plains of IMiebla, we could see the lofty summits of Ori- zavM and Mount Malinchc. just reddening in the rays of THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 193 the setting sun. Above us towered the still unsealed snow crowned summit of Popocatepetl, from six to seven thou- sand feet higher. It was quite cold and we soon had a roaring fire in the center of one of the shanties. There was no chimney, the atmosphere was very much rarefied, and we soon found that the smoke was disposed to go any way but upward. When our guides came up with the baggage we un- packed the provisions and bedding, ate a hasty supper and at eight o'clock lay down to rest and sleep, prepara- tory to our morning climb. For myself I could not sleep, and was up and down all night, now replenishing the fire, now looking after the horses, which became somewhat restive, now out in the night watching the moon rise be- yond the peak of Orizava. At half past one I aroused our sleeping party and the guides, and we began our preparations for the ascent ; tied on our hats, had our legs bandaged with long strips of flannel, got on great coats and blankets, and were ready to mount. At just three o'clock, we set off in the moon- light, single file, with a guide ahead to lead the way. We crossed a wooded ridge, went down and up the pre- cipitous sides of a deep gulley worn in the mountain side by the torrents from the eastern slopes of the volcano, and had soon left behind us all traces of vegetation and were laboriously climbing vast sloping plains or inclines of sand, volcanic ash and scoriae, into which the horses' hoofs sank deep at eveiy step. The labored breathing and frequent halting of the poor animals showed that we were invading the regions of upper air and should soon have to leave our horses. After two hours' zigzag climbing on horseback, we halted and dismounted under the lea of a huge rock which, for the moment, protected us from the icy breeze which we were to have in our faces the rest of the ascent. Then each 194 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO man with bis guide faced the steep ascent and began the morning's work. It was now five o'clock, and the east began to redden with the first streaks of dawn. Half an hour's work in the loose sand and volcanic debris brought us to the edge of the snow, and looking up we could see an apparently' limitless stretch of snow field, many hundreds of feet wide, lying at an angle of about forty-five degrees and rising into the inky blue of the sky. The snow was frozen hard and fortunately did not present an even surface, but was broken into ridges and depres- sions which afforded easy foot hold. On we went, stepping slowly and cautiously in the places indicated by the guides, stopping now and again with greater and greater frequency as our breath came shorter and shorter; at times throwing ourselves down in a furrow of the snow and turning our backs to the wind, which howled about us and came in gusts as if angry and minded to hurl us back down the slope. An hour, two hours passed, and we seemed scarcely to have made a beginning of the work before us. The red horizon grew more and more brilliant until at last the sun shot up above the dark line of mist and illuminated the vast expanse beneath us. The snowy summit of Orizava looked coldly at us across the hundred and fifty miles of distance, Malinche frowned upon us in the fore- ground and, over to the left as we looked eastward, the rugged heights of Ixtaccihuatl seemed near at hand across the mountain pass. As the day grew brighter, the vast plains of Puebla came distinctly into view, covered in i)art with clouds so far beneath us that the sun shining upon their upper sur- face made them look like vast fields of snow, pierced here and there by wooded summits of hills. lOven high emi- nences were lost in the common level spread out before us. Over to our ri,\'hen he came back a few weeks later, my sister, Emma, came with liim to spend a few months with us. Wliat these visits of my sisters meant to me personally, so far from all my family and the friends of my childhood and youth, and what animation and merriment their youthful gayety and li^hlhoartedness brought into our home life, can well be imagined. (From my letter home) Mexico City, September 25, 1884. 'ill is year we celebrated the 16th, Mexico's great na- tional holiday, .with unusual enthusiasm, all the Protes- tant churches in the city joining in the festivities. The large audience room of our church was full, about a thou- sand being present. We had it decorated with evergreens and flowers and flags, and it looked very festive. I made a large banner for our school, with a picture of Juarez on one side and the ^loxican colors on the other, and it was very much admired, and was the source of gi-eat pride and joy to the small boys who had the honor of carrying it. I also made each (tf them a sash of red and white and green, which added to the effect, and with their medals i)inned on their jackets they made quite a fine ajjpcarance. They were invited to march in the public l)rocession, and they and another Vrotestant school sang the Mexican National Hymn with orchestra accompani- ment and did very well indeed. The entertainment here at tlic church was at four o'clock. The program, which consisted of short speeches, I THIKTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 213 recitations, and patriotic songs, was two hours long. I played the piano, one boy the violin, another the cornet, and we had a good leader, so this part of the program was very successful ; some of the numbers being applauded so enthusiastically that they had to be repeated. The week after this, Mr. and Mrs. Butler returned from their six months' vacation, bringing with them Miss Mary Loyd, a new missionary, and C.'s youngest brother, Ernest. To celebrate Mr. and Mrs. Butler's return we had the boys of the school, with all their 16th of Septem- ber trappings — banners, iiags, etc. — formed in line at the entrance to welcome them. In the evening there was a reception for them, with brief addresses, singing, and an original poem which Mr. Palacios had sat up all night to compose for the occasion. Miss Loyd was introduced and made a most favorable im- pression. At the close of the exercises one of the boys of the school, in the name of them all, presented Mr. Butler with a silk hat ! . . . (To his father) Mexico City^ November 17, 1884. No doubt you have seen alarming telegrams from here these last few days. This was the nearest approach to a revolution we have had for seven years. It was over a bill passed by Congress to which the people were greatly opposed. They made such violent demonstrations of their opposition that it was found necessary to repeal it or to postpone any further action in the matter for the present. For several days the streets near the Hall of Congress were crowded with people, and the whole city was full of troops. At times the disorder and excitement became such that the soldiers were ordered to fire on the crowd, and many were killed and wounded. 214 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO As soon as the matter was adjusted everything became as quiet as usual save for the general rejoicing. All over the city there were illuminations, fireworks, and bands of music at night, and yesterday the students of the prin- cipal schools marched through the streets in procession with bands of music, flags, and banners to celebrate their victory. Two weeks hence General Diaz will come into power, and there is a widespread expectation that things will improve, . . . December 1, This is Inauguration Day, and Diaz is now President ! The usual ceremonies of the occasion were celebrated this morning at nine o'clock. To-night there will be fireworks and a general jubilee. We are now nearing the close of the year, and are al- ready' looking forward to the arrival of the bishop who is to inaugurate our Annual Conference organization, thus ending my relation to the work under the title of superintendent. Bishop Merrill has written me that he desires me to serve a term as presiding elder, "What ar- rangements may be made by the coming bishop, I cannot, of course, foresee with any certainty. CHAPTER XII (From my letter home) Mexico City^ January 6, 1885. Bishop Harris and Mr. Phillips, of New York, treasurer of the Missionary Society, reached here New Year's morn- ing, two weeks sooner than we had expected them. They were here only two days, when they went with C. to visit the work in Queretaro, Guanajuato, and Leon, returning here yesterday morning. They spent the day and night here and left this morning for Orizava. From there they go to Puebla and Pachuca, and expect to be home again Monday night. Thursday, Conference begins, and as soon as that is over they will leave for New York. They will have had a very busy and hurried visit, but they have been much pleased with what they have seen of the work. Bishop Harris says there has been great improvement in all the departments of the work since he was here five years ago. I have scarcely seen C. the last month. He has been away from home almost constantly, and so busy when he was here that he has had to work till midnight or later. He reached home from a very hard trip among the Puebla mountains just the night before Christmas, which we cele- brated this year with unusual animation, having with us my sister and brother, Ernest, Mary Loyd, and Miss Le Huray. We had the parlor decorated with wreaths and garlands and festoons of evergreens, and it seemed very like a home Christmas. We all had very nice presents, too, among them a very large box of American apples and a basket of luscious 215 216 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO pears. It was a bright warm day and in the afternoon C. and I went for a horseback ride into the country. It was most enjoyable, and the whole day was a very happy one for us all. . . . The 9th of December, 1884, a cowardly attack was made upon Sr. Gamboa, one of our most useful and promising Mexican jDreachers. The Rev. Duston Kemble, who was then in charge of the district in which it occurred, gives this account of the tragedy : Mr. Gamboa, pastor of our Mission in Guanajuato, desired to make a visit to our little band of followers in the village of Cueramaro, about thirty-five miles southwest of Silao, in a region infested by lawless characters from whom I myself had several narrow escapes. He started at an early hour, riding my dapple gray horse, and accompanied by my usual traveling companion, Sr. Donaciano Saldana, a former soldier of the rurales, and familiar with the road. Scarcely a mile out of Silao they were met by three mounted men, evidently waiting for them, half concealed by the darkness. As they were about to pass, the leader of the bandits shouted, "Halt there!" and as Saldana instinctively reached for his gun, he shouted a second time, "Drop Mm!' at which their three old-fashioned horse pistols rang out together, and the brave soldier leaped from his saddle pierced by a ball through the heart. Mr. Gamboa, unhurt, tried to spur his horse, but, unknown to him, the splendid animal was shot through the neck as he reared at the first alarm, and became almost unmanageable. One of the robbers followed and fired throe times, the last shot passing through the preacher's body just below the heart. After a brief examination of both men, the murderers fled with the arms and saddles, remarking that it was too bad they had hit the horse. Mr. Gamboa lay on the ground until long after daylight, and nearly bled to death before the passersby had notified the authorities, who finally came out and brought both men into town. No little sympathy was expressed by the people of Silao; and the preacher's wife heroic- ally assisted Dr. Alvarez and myself in nursing him back to life, with so much success that six weeks later he was able to attend THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 217 Conference in Mexico City. The leader of the robbers was after- ward shot by the mounted police in the streets of Silao. (From my letter home) January 30. Conference is over, and the bishop and Mr. Phillips have just gone to the train. Our Mission is now an Annual Conference, composed of one district, of which C. is pre- siding elder. He also continues as treasurer of the Mis- sion, and was again elected editor of our church paper. El Abogado. We had a most pleasant and harmonious session, and though two or three brethren who had hoped for certain things were disappointed, they bore their disappointment with good grace and seemed inclined to make the best of the situation. The Conference in a body sat for their pic- tures one day, and they are quite good for so large a group, and a nice looking lot of people, all things con- sidered. Mr, Phillips came to Mexico feeling rather troubled about some things, but after he had investigated matters and saw how they really were, he was quite relieved. In a brief address he made one day to the Conference, he said he was very glad he had come, that he had found the Mission much larger and more prosperous than he had expected, and that he had been greatly pleased with his whole visit. We had a letter from Galdiuo last week, written while at home for the holidays. He said among other things that he found you kind and affectionate as usual, always thinking more of other people's comfort and happiness than your own ; that father was quiet and "pensive" and generally absorbed in business matters, but that there was something in his face that inspired him with con- fidence and made him like to be near him, and there to 218 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO meditate ou his own future, and all that he hopes to do and to be, when he has finished his college course. He said that before the holidays, when all the other boys were talking of home, it was a great comfort to him to feel that there was a place that was home to him, even in a foreign country, and far from all his own family and childhood friends. . . . Early in February we received news of the sudden death of my youngest sister, nineteen years of age, who had spent the previous year with us. She had gone home only four months before, full of life, and the picture of health, so that we were totally' unprepared for such a message, and it caused us all inexpressible sorrow. The latter i)art of the same month, a telegram came, announcing the death in Queretaro, of one of our Mexican preachers, from whom Mr. Drees had received a letter only two days before. His brother wrote that he had preached with unusual enthusiasm and feeling, so much so that a crowd of roughs just outside the church, who were disturbing the congregation by loud laughing and talking, finally became quiet and attentive. Just as he was finishing his sermon he raised his eyes as if in prayer, his voice failed, and he fell dead in the pulpit. They sent for physicians, but he was past all help. It was thought at first that death was caused by congestion of the brain, but a post mortem examination was held and they found, so they said in Spanish, that his heart was broken. (To his father) Mrxico City, March 29, 1885. I have for many days been h()i)ing to get a letter written but have been so pressed above measure by duties that THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 219 could not be postponed, tliat I have been hindered. The last six months have, I thinly, been the busiest of my life. The change of my nominal relation to the work has made very little change in the nature of my duties. In addition to my former work, the editorial charge of our monthly paper has been laid upon me and requires a great deal of attention. I have reason to be thankful for robust health, which enables me to keep up in some degree with the demands of my position,, though sometimes I find things accumulating in a very discouraging way. Our work generally is in a more prosperous condition than it has ever been before. There is deeper religious interest, congregations are growing, membership is in- creasing, and fields white unto the harvest are opening be- fore us. This is true notwithstanding the manifest re- vival of devotion to Romanism, noticeable in certain quarters. We are looking with faith for still greater prosperity. Ernest is very happy at the thought of going home the first of May. He has given very good satisfaction in his work in the railroad office. Not only has there been no complaint, but Mr. Webb, the auditor, has spoken very well of him and given him a very good testimonial. His immediate superior also speaks highly of him. We shall all miss him. I have just finished my first quarterly round, and for the last six weeks have spent only one Sunday at home. . . . (To his mother) Mexico City^ June 11. I got home Monday evening from a two weeks' trip of over 600 miles, in which T made less than half the round of my district. I rode nearly a hundred miles on horse- 220 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO back, and came back very much burued by the sun, most of the skin peeling otf my face. 1 found the work in good condition, and there are many interesting features I would like to write about if time would permit. I visited for the first time a large farm, whose owner has declared himself on our side, and brings all his laborers into his own house to tlie services. He offers us 175 acres of land, if we will establish an indus- trial school on it. We have so many other enterprises on foot that I fear it will be some time before we can com- pass this. Mrs. Bishop Warren has given us eight cabinet organs for different places, among them one for Acayuca, a town I visited last week. This organ had reached the nearest railroad station, about ten miles away. They were dis- cussing the best way to bring it over, and the brethren seemed to find some difficulty in fixing the matter up, when one of the sisters, a woman fifty years old, said : ^'Well, if the brethren can't get it here, we women will go over and bring it ourselves." (It had to be carried on men's shoulders.) That sister has been treasurer of the committee to raise money to pay the duties and freight. Chiefly by her ex- ertions about $50 have been collected, and yet the people there are poor, in a sense and to a degree of which you can scarcly have any conception. On Sunday I preached three times, held two communion services, baptized six children, and held a Quarterly Con- ference. . . . CHiGXAiirAi'AX, August 30, 1885. I reached Apizaco in due time yesterday afternoon, and spent the rest of the day in the school, examining various classes. Had supper and stayed all night with the Bernals in the Mission house. Rose at five o'clock and got off on THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 221 the diligence at six. I was the only passenger, and got well bounced and shaken up. Believe I should prefer to make the trip on horseback. Preached here at half past two, took a room in the "meson," and had dinner at a little "fonda" — quite satis- factory — for eighteen cents. Soon afterward Medina ar- rived from Tetela with a horse for me. We took a little walk through the town, and now I am writing this on the counter of the store where I bought this stationery. To-morrow morning will, I hope, find us at sunrise well on our way to Tetela. Perhaps we shall salute the rising sun from the top of the mountain ridge. We shall prob- ably turn aside a little from our road to go through the Canada to see George Schley. We ought to reach Tetela about noon. Medina sent over to Fernandez at Xochiapulco for the two horses, so I shall have the same beast all the way, and as I shall not have to return the horses this way, I shall likely go from Xochiapulco to San Juan de los Llanos, trying to reach there by noon on Monday, so as to get home the same night. This village of Chignahuapan is a regular mountain town, very "trist," and has the reputation of being very fanatical. Medina says he narrowly escaped being mobbed here a few weeks ago. . . . (To his father and mother) Mexico City, September 13, 1885. This is my birthday and our wedding anniversary. It is eight years to-day since we were married. I arranged my work so as to get home yesterday evening. We had a few intimate friends to dinner with us. I have been away from home most of the time for two weeks. The second of September I set out for the Sierra 222 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO of the State of Puebla. Went by rail to Apizaco, where I stayed over night, and the next day by stage to Chigna- huapan, about thirty-five miles. Friday went on horse- back to Tetela, twenty-two miles distant, one of onr Mexi- can preachers accompanying me. The road was very mountainous, leading over a higli ridge and through very fine scenery. We were in the saddle six hours and reached our destination about noon. In the afternoon I called on a gentleman, son of the late Governor of Puebla. He has just returned from a three months' journey in the United States, and was very enthu- siastic over what he saw and the attentions he received. He is a sincere friend of our cause and repeated the assurance of his svmpathy and help. He and his family are very influential all through the Sierra, which is popu- lated entirely by Indians, most of whom know very little of the Spanish language. We also went up a very narrow mountain gulch to see an American family who had lately moved there, the only such family in all the region. Mr. Schley is a mining engineer, and is putting up reduction works to extract gold and silver from the ores which are available in the mines of the district. We were cordially received and had a pleasant visit. We rode back in the twilight and early darkness in time to hold meeting. I preached again from the words: "These that have turned the world upside down are come hither also," taking occasion to explain tlie true nature of Protestantism as simply a return to evangelical and apostolic Christianity. The people were very attentive and seemed to hear the word with gladness. At 8 o'clock Saturday morning. Brother Medina and I were again in the saddle, bound for Xochiapulco, seven leagues distant. Our road led us over two high summits, with a deep valley between them, then down a steep rocky THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 223 ravine across a rapid river, up a third mountain, tlien down thousands of feet into a gorge and up the opposite side to the hill top on which Xochiapulco is situated. The road is so steep and in places so rough, that the horses must stop to take breath every few minutes, and if the horseman wishes to make speed or has a tender regard for his own neck, he must at times dismount and climb afoot, dragging his beast of burden after him. We reached Xochiapulco about two o'clock, and after a hasty meal, went at once to the schoolhouse, where the congregation was already assembled. It consisted of some two hundred boys and girls of ages ranging from five to eighteen years, with a few older people. This was the third time I had visited them, and I found with pleasure that I have a great many friends among the throng of red- skinned youngsters. During my previous visit, eight months before, I had given them a motto and charged them to remember it. When I asked them to repeat it, a whole chorus of voices sung it out with a will. So I preached specially to them. The next day, accompanied by Brother Fernandez, who is doing the work of an evangelist in all that region, I rode five leagues to Mazapa, where we spent the night. Monday we were off before six, without any breakfast, and rode twenty-five miles to San Juan de los Llanos. I reached there in time to get something to eat and take the train for San Marcos, where I changed cars for Mexico City, reaching home at nine o'clock that night. I should have to write many pages to give you anything like a complete account of the incidents and impressions of such a trip. The whole region, of which I traversed only a small part, is ripe for the gospel. We have influential friends there, who open the way for us. The poor people are as sheep having no shepherd, utterly neeglected by the priests, and extremely ignorant of all religious truth. 224 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO But they are industrious, peaceable, and docile, very ready to hear and obey the truth. Here is a partial list of tlio places Brother Fernande?: visits every two weeks or oftener. You will see liow thoroughly Indian the names are: Ixtaltenango, Tenam- pulco, Yxihuaco, Yautetelco, Tecuicuilco, Xacumulco, etc. These villages comprise a population of about 12,000 souls. In each place the schoolhouse is held at our dis- posal for services, and in all the schools, with a thousand pupils in attendance, the New Testament is read and our Gospel Hymns are sung; yet this district is but a small part of a region which is now accessible to us, and in which no other church is laboring. We are looking forward to the new year, hoping that the General Missionary Committee Avill be able to make larger provision for our work. September 19. I began this letter on the 13th, but was not able to finish it. Wednesday was Independence Day, and I went to Pachuca to be present at the reception, a Cornish, Eng- lish, Wesleyan Tea Meeting, given to Brother Salmans and his wife, who have just arrived under appointment to the English work in Pachuca and Mineral del Monte. I came home Thursday and have been very busy getting material together for the October number of the Abogado, our Advocate. . . . (To his mother) Orizaba, November 29, 1885. 1 have had to keep in constant motion this month. First to go to Zacatecas to confer with a priest who is on the point of openly renouncing K'oinanism; then to Aguas Calientes to look for a little American child whose mother died more than a year ago, and whose father, given up to i THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 225 drink, left her abandoned in a Mexican family. Her friends on her mother's side, well-to-do people in eastern New York, had written to Mary Loyd to make inquiries and see if the child could be found and sent home to them. I took the matter in hand and found that the people who had her were not disposed to give her up, but I ascer- tained the whereabouts of her father, and a fcAv days after my return to Mexico City, went to Morelia and persuaded him to give me a letter and power of attorney to take pos- session of the child. Last Monday I went again to Aguas Calientes, and on Wednesday the authorities gave her over to me and I reached home with her Thanksgiving morning. She is about six years old, a very sweet little thing, quite pretty, and knows not a word of English. Her Mexican friends, who had been very kind to her, and to her mother in her last illness, had had her baptized in the Roman Church. We celebrated Thanksgiving by having a few friends to dinner and going, in the evening, to a reception at the American Legation. I was up the next morning at five o'clock and took the train for Cordova, where I preached and administered the communion, returning home Satur- day. I preached here this morning, and am to preach and hold communion service to-night. When I reach home to-morrow night I shall have traveled since October 28 about 2,500 miles, all by rail, besides preaching ten times, getting out the Abogado and other work. I shall be crowded on in about this way now till after Conference, which will meet January 14. As I write there is a great clangor of bells in the tower of the parish church, a square away, and volley after voile}' of rockets, to-day beginning the two weeks' festival of the Virgin of Gnadalupe, the Great Diana of the Mexicans. At the veritable shrine of the apparition of this Virgin, near Mexico City, a ceremony is to be held I 226 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO the 12th of December this year, Avliicli has not been held for the last hundred and fifty years, namely, the formal oath of fealty to the Virgin is to be taken by the assembled multitude. For days past, a great many people, mostly Indians, have been coming into Mexico City on foot, over different roads, to be present at tliis feast. 8uch is the influence which that monkish invention still has over this people. It must yet be a long struggle to overthrow this paganism, but the time will come when He shall reign whose right it is. Tlio work is going for- ward, and I sometimes wonder whether it will not be so that at some time in the not distant future, the Lord will cut short the work in righteousness and destroy by the brightness of his coming the mystery of iniquity which certainly would seem to be now fully manifested. We can only stand in our lot, and work and wait. . . . Pachuca, December 5, 1885. I reached Irolo in good time, Thursday morning, but only to find that under the new arrangement of trains, there would be none leaving for Pachuca till noon, so T had to wait there nearly four hours! When we reached Tepa there had no horse arrived for me to go across to Tezontepec, so I had to go on to Pachuca, leaving Brothci- Smith, who had gone to meet me, to make the journey alone. Arriving at Pachuca I got a horse as quickly as possible and started for Tezontepec about four o'clock. I made good time till darkness overtook me about two leagues from the town. It was cloudy and so dark that I had great diiliculty in keeping the road, and had to go very slowly. Finally I rode up to the chapel door just as they were singing the last hymn l)eforo tlie sermon. A boy took my horse and I went in, took a text and preached as best I could. After the preaching service held Quarterly ^ THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 227 Conference and after that had a little supper, and got to bed about eleven o'clock, a pretty tired itinerant. Friday morning Brother Smith and I set out for Pa- chuca, arriving there at noon. As I have not ridden any for two or three months, these sixteen leagues were enough to bruise me up considerably, especially as I had a trotting horse. Held Quarterly Conference at the close of prayer meeting last night, and was busy yesterday afternoon and most of to-day in consultation with Brothers Smith and Salmans about Mission matters. To-morrow morning early, I shall be on my way to Real del Monte, where I am to preach at nine o'clock in Spanish, and at one in English; then on to Omitlan for Spanish service at three, and back to Pachuca for Spanish preaching and communion at seven. Monday afternoon. Brother Salmans and I go on horse- back to Zinguilucan, where we are to hold opening serv- ices on Tuesday. Wednesday I will be on the way to Irolo, which I hope to reach by noon. All the friends here are well and the work is encouraging. December 10. Brother Smith met me in Irolo and accompanied me on this journey and was of great assistance to me. From Irolo we went to Xochihuacan, where we took horses for Acayuca, four leagues distant, arriving about six o'clock. We held service at night with a large number in attend- ance and were much encouraged by the interest mani- fested. The next morning we rode to Tezontepec. five leagues further, held Quarterly Conference in the afternoon and a preaching service at night, which was also well at- tended. The following day we set out early for Tulan- cingo, thirteen leagues, reaching there at four o'clock, and held services in the newly fitted up chapel, an occasion of 228 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO special interest to the brethren there as well as to our- selves. Friday morning we left for Alfacayuca, five leagues, arriving at noon. We held a meeting at night and left there the next morning, going on to Pachuca, which we reached after a ride of six leagues, a good deal tired, much sunburned, and with our clothes badly used up. Mexico City, December 16, 1885. I reached Miraflores Sunday, at eleven o'clock, preached and held Quarterly Conference, and after dinner started on horseback for Ayapango, arriving at half past four. Held meeting in the evening, visited the school the next morning, and went to Ameca to take the train at 1 p. m., getting back here at four. I must finish the translation of the last chapter of Long- king's Light to the Path to-night, and get material in order for the next issue of the Abogado. I shall be dread- fully busy these next two days, getting ready to start on Thursday to Salamanca, then on to Guanajuato and Leon on my fourth quarterly visit. I feel like I am going on what is to be my last round up the country for a good while to come. Yet who can tell what the Conference and bishop may bring forth? I have a letter from Bishop Foster saying he will reach Guanajuato Saturday, the 19th, at which time I am to be there according to my plan. . . . Bishop Foster arrived at the time he expected, and visited with Mr. Drees all the Mission stations to the north, before coming to Mexico City. He spent Christmas and the following days in Puebla, the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Siberts, and went on December 30 to Pachuca, and thence to Mexico City, where Conference met the 14th of Jauuaiy. CHAPTER XIII (From my letter home) Mexico City, January 28, 1886. Conference is over and we had an unusually pleasant and harmonious session. Very few changes were made, the principal one, however, afifecting us more than any of the others. The Conference was divided into three dis- tricts: the Northern, including Leon, Guanajuato, and Queretaro, with Mr. Craver as presiding elder; the Southern, including Puebla and Orizava, with Mr. Green- man in charge; and the Central, including Mexico City, three or four smaller places, and Pachuca, for C. to su- perintend. Some of the Americans and all the Mexicans objected to this arrangement, believing it was better to continue as last year, with but one district and C. in charge of it. Bishop Foster stayed with us, and was a most delight- ful guest. Indeed, his visit was a blessing to all of us per- sonally, as well as to the general work of the Mission. On Sunday, he preached his great sermon from the text: "What is man that thou art mindful of him?" General Jackson, the American Minister, and his wife were pres- ent and remained to the Spanish service afterward. While we were at dinner the door bell rang, and the servant came ushering in General Jackson, who wished to see the bishop. He was evidently under such stress of emotion that he could scarcely speak. He said he only wished to take him by the hand and thank him for that 229 230 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO sermon, that it was the most wonderful thing he had ever heard. Conference closed Monday, and that night we had a farewell reception for the bishop, inviting onlj^ the mem- bers of the Conference, forty-five in number, Mexicans and Americans. All but one were able to come, and the eve- ning proved to be a very enjoyable one. We have been trying to find some one going to the States with whom we could send the little girl C. brought down from Zacatecas last November, but no one has seemed willing to take charge of her. As soon as Bishop Foster knew of it, he offered to take her with him, though she knows no English and he no Spanish. When C. went to see Mr. Branniff, the president of the railroad, to ask for a pass for her to Vera Cruz, he took her with him, and Mr. B. not only gave a pass for her, but also one for C, and another for the bishop, and §5 besides "to buy candies" on the way home, he told her. The bishop, however, paid his own fare, and gave me the benefit of his pass; so C. and I went with them to Vera Cruz, saw them on board the steamer and arranged with the stewardess to take charge of the child and save the bishop all possible trouble with her. . . . February 15. C. has just bought to-day, for the W. F. M. S., a prop- erty around the corner from us, adjoining this building in the rear, for the orphanage, for ^40,000. We cannot get possession of it until August, but it will belong to the Mission as soon as the papers are made out, which will be some time this week. Miss Le Huray and Mary Loyd are having a jubilee to-day, they are so pleased with their new acquisition. Mr. Green, of the Presbyterian Mission, is home again, that is here in Mexico, and brought for the orphanage a I THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 231 present from some society in the States of a hundred and five sheets; but the Custom House olficials in Paso del Norte seized them and Mary had to pay |70 in duties and fines. He also brought some dress goods for one of their missionaries, which cost three dollars in New York, and they charged nine dollars duties on that! This is the usual result of trying to have anything brought out from home. . . . Zacualtipan^ June 2, 1886. Brother Salmans and I have carried out our intention to remain here several days, and feel that we are well re- paid. Sunday night we had our first service, with an attendance inside of about fifteen, and a number of at- tentive hearers outside. On Monday we spent the morn- ing visiting two or three houses where our friends live, and in a prolonged interview with the Chief of Police, who received us with great kindness and talked very freely and cordially with us. He is an elderly man who served against the French and was made prisoner and carried to France. In the afternoon we went with Herbert Rhett, a coun- tryman of ours, who is in charge of an iron mine near here, to visit the iron works about a league down the gorge and 800 meters below the level of this place, and to a flour mill a little lower down. It was a pleasant ride and we enjoyed it very much. We got back in time to have supper before church. We had a little larger attendance than the night before. Tuesday morning we went early, before five o'clock, to the river to bathe. The stream is a rocky, shallow one, where the water has worn holes in the living rock several feet deep, and here we bathed in the open air. The water was very cold and the bath quite invigorating. In the forenoon I settled accounts and made some arrangements 232 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO with the local preacher, Espinoza, and wrote a communi- cation to the authorities giving notice of the establish- ment of our church. In the afternoon there was an arrival at the hotel in which I was much interested. It was that of an aged priest who came in from Molango, seven leagues distant. He was lodged in the room next to ours, and I soon found that he was the same priest with whom I had a long con- versation some years ago, on the way from Orizaba to Puebla, and who called on me and attended one or two services in our church in the latter place. He recognized me and called me into his room, embracing me with great effusiveness. He has resigned his parish and is on his way to Mexico City, expecting to travel through the interior and perhaps return to Spain. He assured me of his intention to call on us next week in Mexico Cit3^ I first met him in 187G. He is very liberal, very skeptical concerning the doctriues of his own church, but has continued in the priesthood from necessity, convenience, or habit, perhaps from all three. We called on the Juez de Letras, Senor Morenas y Con- treras, to whom Brother Salmans had a letter of introduc- tion. He is a young man, speaks English, as does also his wife, and received us with great cordialit}^ insisting that we must dine at his house to-morrow. He knows Gamboa well, and once traveled with Miss Swaney from Pachuca to Mexico City. He has a very exalted opinion of ]\Iiss S. ; says she is "very intelligent and very learned." Our meeting at night was more largely attended than ever and a good deal of serious interest prevailed. I pi-eached, and was drawn ont to preacli at considerable length. We dosed at quarter past nine, but all sat down again, and did not seem at all anxious to leave the place. Indeed, Brother Salmans and I were the first to go out. THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 233 lu the afternoon one of the brethren came to ask us to go to his house to talk with his father, who is as yet uncon- vinced of the truth. We went and had an extremely in- teresting conversation with a very simple-hearted, gentle old man. This is our last day here. We expect to get off at four o'clock, and if our horses stand the journey well we shall go through to Tulanciugo by six or seven in the evening. We have three horses and shall use them in relays. The road is good, and the distance about sixty English miles. I hope to go to Alfajayuca Saturday afternoon, on to Real del Monte Sunday morning, to Pachuca in the eve- ning, and home again on Monday ! (From my letter home) Washington's birthday was celebrated here this year by the laying of the corner stone of the new American Hos- pital, in which we are all greatly interested. It is located just in the edge of the city, on the road to Tacuba, but some distance from any line of street cars and in the midst of green fields and woods. A more suitable place could not have been found. Both the American railroads gave their employees a holiday, and many of them were present at the exercises. A large tent or awning was put up, with seats for the ladies, refreshments were served, and it was made a very pleasant as well as an interesting occasion. The English as well as the American residents here have long realized the great need of such an institution and are very enthusiastic over it, and disposed to do all they can to make it what it should be. Mr. Jones, a missionary from Bulgaria, is spending a few days with us. He had to leave there on account of his health, and was advised to try the climate of Mexico. Unfortunately, he has not improved, although he went 234 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO for a while to Ciiautla, which is much warmer and much lower than Mexico City. As he found he was failing rather than gaining, he decided to go back home, and is now on his way there, expecting to sail by the next steamer for New Orleans. He hopes to get a position in Claflin University. He is bright and cheerful and never complains ; is very earnest and interested in his work and anxious to return to it. He has decided, however, that he will have to give up that idea for another year, but hopes in the meantime to be able to do something in the South. It is pathetic to hear him talk about it and in such a hopeful way, for no one else thinks he will ever see Bulgaria again. (From my letter home) July 25, 1886. We are just home from a delightful trip to Morelia and Patzcuaro, on the Mexican National Railroad. We left here early Monday morning, a party of seven, the guests of Mr. Webb, the auditor of the company. We took a large basket of provisions, and the porter carried a spirit lamp and cooked eggs and made coffee, so that we had lunch whenever we wanted it, and dined at the stations where there were restaurants, telegraphing our orders in advance of our arrival. The country through wliich lliis road passes is like some parts of our own country, with beautiful plains and val- leys and sl()j)es, smoolli and green as a well-kept lawn, and whole tields of yellow and purple and white wild flowers. We reached jMorelia, the largest city on the road, about nine o'clock that niiilil and spent the night there, sleej)- \i\'^ oil or in oiii- own private car, which was most con- venient and com I'orl aide. The iioxf day we wont on to Patzcuaro, the pi('sth, witli music and pojjular addresses up to the memorable hour wlien the Declaration of Independence is read and the chief ofificial of each place takes the flag and, waving it, raises the cry, "Viva la Independencia!" The great day, of course, is the IGtli, with its memorial services in the "Cemetery of Illustrious Men," with its civic and military i)arade, its i)nl>lic concert in the grand plaza and, this year, with a ball in honor of the President. which was attended by more than three thousand people, and is said to have cost ^70,000. The ball room was fitted up in the School of Mines, the whole of the great court being built over at the level of the second floor and covered with a canvas roof, the entire place being most hand- somely decorated. I went to Miraflores the afternoon of the 15th, to be present at the celebration held by our school there. After our program had been rendered, we marched to the tent where the village was to celebrate the occasion, and listened to a speech, followed by siiiiiing and lireworks. The affair did not come to a close till midnight. I came back to Mexico City the morning of the IGth, and our chni-ch and the Episcojtalian Mission had an enthusiastic celebration in our large audience room in the afternoon. I go this afternoon to Ayapango to stay till Monday, and the last of next week must go to T*achuca and thence to Zacualtipan, a long journey on horseback. . . . Zacialtipax, October 28, 1880. Brother Salmans and I got up at five o'clock Tuesday morning, hoping to get under way by six, but were de- layed in g«'ltiiig our horses pi"oj»erly saddled and our im- mense bundles suitably arranged, so that it was nearly THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 237 seven when we finally started. As soon as we got up the mountain a little way, we found the wind quite cold and soon were enveloped in the clouds and had to get out our rubber blankets, which we did not remove till we reached Atotouilco, El Grande, twenty miles from Pachuca. We stopped half an hour at Omitlan and from there to Atotonilco we rode over a very bad road in the midst of a cold driving rain. When we reached here and had gotten a little dinner, it was still so cold and rainy, and I was feeling so uncomfortable with wet clothes and a head- ache, that we concluded to go no further that day. To- ward night we got a good sized ''brasero," and sending for a supply of charcoal soon had a good fire going in the "zaguan" with the outer doors closed, and at last got thoroughly dried and warmed. There was a poor old Indian woman who, with her son, had traveled many miles in the rain that day and was soaked to the skin. They were too poor to take a room, and there she sat out of doors, shivering with cold. We had her draw up to our fire and dry all her clothes, till at last she was perfectly comfortable and began to nod over the fire. About nine o'clock she made her bed, by laying down on the rough stones of the courtyard the coarse bagging which formed the pack-saddle of one of her donkeys, and retired for the night, bestowing profuse blessings on us, in the name of Heaven and the Virgin, for the comfort of our fire. The same afternoon we went to see Wesley's aunt. We knocked at the outer entrance and, getting no answer, pushed it open and went from door to door in the court- yard, till at last we heard a faint answer, and going in found the old lady had gone to bed with all her clothes on to keep warm. She seemed glad to see me and re- called all we had done for her nephews, the Vargas boys. We got up before four o'clock Wednesday morning, and 238 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO started on oiii- way willi Imrdly more than light enough to see tlio road, which was very heavy. The weather was foggy and cloudy, with a little rain till about nine o'clock. We reached Los Venados, at the bottom oi" the barranca at eleven o'clock, had a little mole and frijolea, and con- tinued our journey, arriving here at five o'clock, after a ride of nearly- forty miles. We had meeting at seven o'clock and I ijreached. To- day I have been busy correcting copy for the next Abo- gado, and preached again tonight. The weather here is cold and foggy, and we have suffered positive discomfort. Last night, however, we got a charcoal fire again, and partially dried our bed clothes before we went to bed. You should have seen the steam come out of the blanket when I held it over the fire! Yet the boy said the bed clothes were not damp. We shall stay here till Monday, and if the weather is favorable by that time, we will probably go farther on into the Sierra, to explore the country a little, and put the native preacher here on the track of some extension of his work. He is timid about undertaking to travel over new roads and going to new places. . . . Mexico City, November 10. Dear Father and Mother : I have very strange and unexpected news to communi- cate to you to-day. It came yesterday evening, in the form of a cablegram from Bishop Warren, as the result of the action of the Board of Bishops. We have been so long in Mexico that we had begun to feel like we were fixtures here. The thought of transfer to another mission field had never crossed my mind except as a very remote and shadowy improbability; but it has become a very near and probable thing. The bishoi)s at their late meeting THIKTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 239 unanimously agreed to request me to accept the superin- tendency of the South America Mission. Ada was out when the message came, and the instant I glanced at its contents, the consequences all rushed over me like a flood that would carry me off my feet. What Ada would say, how her family and you both would feel about it, the breaking up of ties here, Galdino, the new and untried experiences in that distant field, all this and much more flashed through my mind in an instant. When Ada came home a few minutes later and I broke the news to her, she bore it like the brave hearted woman she is. We have talked it all over, lying awake for hours last night and praying for guidance. We have looked at all sides of it as well as we have been able, in view of the necessity of an immediate reply. To every objection there seemed to be some ready answer which we were not at liberty to ignore. Two or three years ago it might possibly have been something akin to disaster for me to have been removed. We had so many enterprises in their first stages and I had the lines so fully in hand, that it would have been difficult to hand them over to another. Now, however, the case is different. Most of our property enterprises have been successfully carried through. All financial matters are in a clear state of settlement, with no pecuniary re- sponsibility to be borne by the Mission nor by any in- dividual. My books and accounts are in such condition that I can hand them over at any hour. The Mission is well developed in its organization, and administrative responsibility is so divided up, that one of us can slip out easily. Our Conference is organized, and no superintendent or single administrative head is needed. I believe a change, with infusion of new blood into this Mission, will probably be very beneficial. It will re- awaken interest in it and care for it on the part of the 240 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO authorities, and may lead to new methods and greater activity and success in the prosecution of the work. The diflficulties and embarrassments of undertaking new work in an ohl field where, as I have reason to believe, there have been unfortunate troubles among the mission- aries, would have certainly prevented me from seeking such a change. The bishops must have had powerful rea- sons to induce them to agree unanimously upon so unusual a plan as this of transferring a missionary from one field to another so distant. As I do not know their reasons I cannot weigh them, and as a Methodist preacher, I can- not assume the responsibility of refusing my concurrence. Nearly all the bishops know me personally, and at least five of those present at the late meeting have had personal knowledge and opjiortuuity for direct observation of our work here. I am bound therefore to believe that they have taken into the account all the facts and interests at both ends of the line. In my position I would not choose the South America work, but I am not at liberty to refuse it. The work will be hard and the responsibility great, but "it is good for a man that he bear the yoke in his youth," and the next ten or fifteen years, if I am spared, will be my time for yoke and burden-bearing. The best I have I would give to God and the church. What we shall feel most keenly and what we fear will give you most pain, will be the much greater distance from home and the longer periods of separation from our loved ones. To this it is hard to find any answer except that the sacrifice seems to be required of us, and that we must seek for grace to oiler it freely. Our Father will comfort your hearts and ours. In view of all the facts involved as we see them, I have this morning telegraphed to Bishop Warren that we are ready to undertake any service the judgment of the THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 241 bishops api)i'oves. I shall write them to-day calling their attention to some facts in the case, and leaving the way open for them to reconsider their action if they see fit. But so far as now appears, 1 suppose we will simply close up our affairs here, so as to be ready to start home im- mediately after Conference. I hope we may spend the latter part of the winter and the early spring with you, before setting out on our long journey. We will let you know all the details as soon as we hear more at length from New York. If we go, I suppose we will live either in Buenos Aires or Monte- video. I cannot write all that is in my heart to-day. . . . On November 16 another cablegram came from Bishop Fowler, confirming Mr. Drees's appointment to the su- perintendency of the South America Mission, and asking us to meet him at Huntsville, Ala., December 15. The bishop had just returned from South America, and it seemed very desirable, if not absolutely necessary, for us to see him and learn all we could of the conditions in that Mission, and get some idea of what awaited us there. During the next two weeks we disposed of our furniture and other articles that we could not take with us, made all the preparations that such a change involved, and on December 2, 1886, the ninth anniversary of my arrival in Mexico, we set out on our long journey to that distant part of the world that was destined to be our home for many years. The days were so few, and so many the demands in con- nection with final adjustments of official relations, that no farewell visits could Jbe made except to Puebla, Mr. Drees's first charge, where we were received by our dear friends, the Greenmans, with whom we were so closely related in sympathy from their first arrival in Mexico, and especially after the Queretaro episode. 242 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO Many of those who were the first converts of the Mis- sion in Puebla were still there to bid farewell to their first pastor, and many were the tears that were shed. I confess to my full share in them, for I was greatly at- tached to these warm-hearted people and deeply touched by their evident grief at the thought of not seeing us again. A visit to the grave of Mi*. Luders, our ever-to-be- remembered friend and associate, could not have been forgotten or omitted. The missionaries and Mexican workers in general were not willing for us to leave without one last meeting, and instead of writing farewell letters, as many as could do so came to Mexico City and participated in the good-by reception which was given us by Mr. and Mrs. Butler. Many kind and appreciative words were spoken and tokens of afifection bestowed upon us. Among these last ' were a valuable collection of Mexicana, works on the his- tory of Mexico, presented to Mr. Drees with the sugges- tion that the donors wished him not to forget, in his new field of labor, the country to which he had given his first service. To me were given a beautiful satin banner in the Mexi- can colors, with the national coat of arms handsomely embroidered in gold, and a bound volume of the Abogado Cristiano, in recognition of my help as proof reader and unappointed assistant editor. Of the letters received, a few will be given elsewhere, as recalling some of the kind messages which we so greatly appreciated. Mr. Drees's last message to the people on the last Sun- day evening we were in Mexico, was from Phil. 1. 27-29: ^^Only let your manner of life 6e worthy of the gospel of Christ: that, ichether I come and see you, or he absent, I may hear of your state, that ye stand faM in one spirit, icith one soul striving for the faith of the gospel; and in nothing affrighted by the adversaries; because to you it THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 243 hath been granted in the behalf of Christ, not only to be- lieve on him, but also to suffer on his behalf.'' It was not easy for us to leave Mexico. We were bound to the countrj^ and to the people by a thousand ties, and as we drove out the last evening to say our adieux to va- rious old friends who were not able to come to us, and as we looked for the last time on the beautiful snow-covered mountains which met our view in every direction, and which had come to be such familiar objects to us, it was with inexpressible regret that we turned our eyes away, and realized that our life and experiences in that pic- turesque and attractive land were a thing of the past. APPENDIX THE DREES FAMILY Tobias Drees, the father of Charles W., was born iu Ger- many, ill the Grand Duchy of Oldenberg, on Febniary 19, 1811). When he was thirteen years ohl, the family, con- sisting of his grandfather, his father, with his stepmother, and the young children, of which Tobias was the eldest, emigrated to America. They left Bremen in a sailing vessel bound for Balti- more, Md., where they landed in the spring of 1832. They knew no English, and the strangeness of their surround- ings was enhanced by the presence of Negroes, the first they had ever seen. They at once began preparations for their journey West. Taking their goods with them in a Conestoga wagon, they began their trip over the mountains, reaching Pitts- burgh some fort}' days later. Here they remained several weeks, during which time Tobias served as bell boy in a hotel and, incidentally, learned enough English to be able to act as iiiterpreler for the jiarly. Alter this delay, they set out for Ohio, on board a flat boat ; the river being very low, the boat often grounded and the i)assengers, as well as the crew, were obliged to wade into the water to free the boat. At Cincinnati, they went ashore and drove across the country to Mercer County, where they settled on a small farm near the county seat. Saint Mary. After some months, the boy obtiiined his p.irents' consent to stai'l out into the world for himself, agreeing to send home a part of his wages toward the support of the family. With 244 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 245 his clothes tied iu a handkerchief and swung over his shoulder ou a stick, and his lunch wrapped in paper in his pocket, he set off toward Troy, O. When he became hungry he sat down by the roadside to eat his lunch and, as he sat there and dreamed of his future, he pledged himself to a life of uprightness and honesty. These good resolutions were never forgotten, and not only contributed to his worldly success but, as he grew to be an ,old man, caused him to be looked upon by the 3'Ounger generations as a veritable saint. After various experiences he apprenticed himself, at the age of twenty-one, to a carpenter, and in 1842 moved with his employer to Xenia. Up to this time he had remained a Roman Catholic and, as there was no Catholic church either in Troy or Xenia, he made the journey on horse- back, once every year, to Saint Mary, for the purpose of making confession and receiving the sacrament. For several months he lived in the family of his em- ployer. They were ardent Methodists, and prayer meet- ings were frequently held in their home. Tobias Drees was occasionally present, and was deeply impressed by these services. Convinced at last of the truth of the Protestant faith, he was finally led, not without severe mental struggles, to renounce Roman Catholicism, and united with the First Methodist Church of Xenia^ of which he remained a devoted and honored member during the rest of his life. One Sunday afternoon, soon after his arrival in Xenia, as he, in company with his employer, was walking along the country road south of the town, he saw a fair young girl across an open meadow, with a milk pail in her hand ; whether it was a case of love at first sight we do not know, but at least he never forgot that first vision, and two years later, this young woman, Maria Hypes, became his wife. 24G THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO I Her parents were Henry Hypes and Sarah Wright Hypes. The Hypes as well as Wright family removed from Fincastle, Va., to Xenia, O., in 1811. Their daugh- ter, Maria, was born April 25, 1825. On December 31, 1840, she became the wife of Tobias Drees. Mrs. Drees was a most capable woman, of usual intel- ligence, and great force of character. The modest home over which she at first presided was, from the beginning, a hospitable one, and later on, as their worldly goods in- creased, their home became the headquarters of the Meth- odist ministers who visited Xenia. A list of their guests would include the names of practically all the notable ministers of southern Ohio, and all the bishops of the Methodist Episcopal Church of that generation. Mrs. Drees's generous nature is well illustrated by the following incident: While her children were still small, Ler mother, now a widow and in failing health, together with an aged aunt, became members of the household. A few months later, a carriage one day stopped at the door and deposited an old lady, a former neighbor. As Mrs. Drees came forward to meet her, she exclaimed: "Maria, you told me that if I ever wanted a home I could come to you," and, pointing to her baggage, she added, "and I've come." From that day until her death she remained as one of the family, cared for and nursed in illness with all sympathy and good will. Of such noble-hearted parents, Charles W. Drees was born, September 13, 1851, their second child and eldest son. A striking incident, characteristic of the boy, occurred when he was not yet twelve years of age. He and his elder sister were almut lo make a visit to a friend living in the country some distance from Xenia, a visit to which he had looked forwanl willi lively anticipation and great pleasure. THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 247 They took the train and arrived at the station where they were to wait for the carriage of their friend. During this interval, he received a strong impression, amounting to a conviction, that he was needed at home and must re- turn at once. In spite of his own inclination and the natural remonstrances of his sister, he took the first train home. On his arrival, a friend of the family, happening to see him, asked how his father was. Seeing that the boy knew nothing of the circumstances, he told him of a serious ac- cident that his father had met with, over which the friend was much troubled. On reaching home, the little fellow found that his mother had, indeed, sore need of him, as she was alone in the house at the time, with the care of a young babe as well as her injured husband, and needed some willing feet to do her bidding. It is a trivial incident, yet it throws light upon the growing character of the boy, so dependable in after life, who would give up a long anticipated pleasure because, in the language of early Methodism, "it was borne in upon him" that he was needed at home. In the winter of 1863 a great revival broke out in Xenia, one of those spontaneous movements that undoubtedly owe their origin to the prayers of some of God's saints. It was in this revival that born of the Spirit which searches and vivifies even the heart of a child, a ray of light illu- mined him, and he then experienced for the first time the life of God in his soul. His conversion at this early age, eleven years, deter- mined his future and affected all his after life. In a letter, written to a favorite uncle at this time, he tells how he then felt the call to preach, and added : "If I ever do preach, my first text shall be : Quench not the Spirit." Seven years afterward he did, in effect, preach his first sermon from these words : "Quench not the Holy Spirit." 248 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO At (lie Xciiiii Iii^'li scliool tlievcjiiug student passed four busy je;irs. riolcssoi- Ormsby was superiutendent of the school (liiriiiji; thai time, l»u( later went to Enf^laiul and took up Ills residence in London. Here, long years after- ward, teachei' and iiu|>il met once more, and passed some happy hours together, talking over old days in Xenia, and the varied experiences which life had brought to each of them. Alter gradmition from tlie high school, he, in company with several fellow pujiils who aspired to a college course, was permitted by the school board to take a year of post- graduate study, fitting them to enter the sophomore class. His chosen college was the Ohio ^Vesleyau University at Delaware, O., in which he was matriculated in September, 18G8, graduating therefrom in June, 1871. COLLEGE LIFE A college friend sends these reminiscences of their college days. Many years ago 1 left my home in Cincinnati to go to college. I was a boy of eighteen and that was almost my first journey away Ironi home. I had been a school boy all my life in my nnlive cily, and li;id just graduated at the Woodward High School. The college to which I was go- ing was located in Dehiware. ()., a hundred and twenty- five miles north of Cincinnnii, and twenty-five north of Colundtus, the State cai)ilal. My home lijid ;il\v;iys been in the largest city of my na- tive Stale, and I he transition to a (piiel little college town was very great. The college was the Ohio NVesleyan Uni- versity, :ind \\:is I hen, as it is to-day, one of the leading educational inslilntions in Melliodism. The president was Dr. Urederic k Meriick, a man whose godly life made a [M'linanent im|iit'ssion upon every student. THIRTEEN YEAKS IN MEXICO 249 Next to him in position and influence was Dr. L. D. McCabe, white-haired even then, but full of the eloquence and fire of youth. There were also a number of other eflScient teachers. To me, college life was entering upon a new world. In the city school I had been accustomed to a life of mechanical routine and the severest discipline, and the life at college I found very different. Three hun- dred young men, all away from home, were drawn together in a manner that was at once intimate and enjoyable. The American Civil War had just closed, and a number of men who had been soldiers in that great struggle had entered the college to complete their education. The con- trast between them, in their maturity, and myself and the body of youthful students was very great. Many of the students of that day later became very distinguished men, one reaching the high office of Vice-President of the United States ; others became governors of great commonwealths, senators, judges, pastors, bishops, and many achieved dis- tinction in realms of science, letters, and commerce. My earliest recollections are associated with a fair- haired, blue-eyed boy, a year younger than myself, whose name was Charles W. Drees. We were both expecting to enter the Christian ministry, and were congenial in all our tastes. It happened also that I was brought into a specially intimate relation to him, through becoming a member of the same Greek letter secret fraternity. After all these years, it seems only last night that in a darkened room, in a cottage home in this college town, Charley Drees was explaining the mystical meaning of the letters on the jeweled fraternity pin which I was to wear. Three happy years were passed together. Charley was one of the most popular boys in the college, good natured, full of humor and a universal favorite with both profes- sors and students. He was a thorough student and al- ways mastered every subject. We graduated the same 250 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO year and received our diplomas as Bachelors of Arts on the same summer morning in the year 1871. Later we entered the School of Theology of Boston University and both graduated from that institution. Then we separated to different fields of labor, and at last after many years, through his instrumentality, I was invited to become pastor of the First Methodist Episcopal Church in Buenos Ayres. Of the delightful years of fellowship I have had with him since, it is not my purpose now to speak, these recol- lections being limited to our college days. The following letter, written while in college, only a few weeks before commencement, gives a very clear idea of his views at that time. Ohio Wesleyan University, ^ „ Delaware, O., May 1, 1871. Dear Father: ' ' '' ' I received by the noon mail a letter which determined me to write to you upon a subject which has a very im- portant bearing upon my future. I begin to feel that it is important for me to mark out definitely what course I shall pursue immediately after leaving college, and of course you will have a great influence in determining what that course shall be. 1 long ago decided that Cod called me to the work of preaching the gospel, and ever since I have been in college 1 have been shaping my studies with that end in view. Now that I am so near the close of my college course I feel more than ever the necessity for the most complete ])reparation for the work of the ministry that the ad- vantages of our day afford in the way of theological schools as well as colleges. Time was when the Methodist preacher, with nothing but his Bible and the knowledge he could gain by his own unaided efforts, could attain THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 251 the very highest success in persuading the people and in fighting with error. But your own memory will convince you that there has been a very great change, and it is even now true and will, in the years to come, be still more manifestly true, that the most powerful men for good in the church are, and will be, those who have obtained the most thorough preparation for the work to which the Master calls them. Looking at it in this light, I cannot feel that I should do right to settle down in the ministry without availing myself of the advantage of attending one of the theological schools. I expect to preach Christ, not for my own fame and worldly profit, but I believe I can conscientiously say, only for the sake of doing good. With this as my only object I cannot help feeling it to be my duty to arm my- self fully before going into the battle of life. Mother has probably told you of my desire to go to the Boston Theological School, and I have now tried to tell you my reasons for so desiring. But you must not think that I have depended alone on my own judgment in com- ing to this conclusion. I have too little confidence in my own judgment for that. I have asked advice from Uncle Will, and from some members of the faculty here, and they have all not only confirmed but also greatly strength- ened me in my inclination. Three courses seem to be open to me. The first is to enter the Conference next fall without going to a theolog- ical school. This would of course cut off all prospect of ray ever being able to do so, for I could never hope to save enough money in the itinerant work to pay my expenses there. So that, in my present state of mind, I cannot enter upon that course. The choice then lies between the other two. Circumstances must of necessity be a factor in coming to a decision, r The first of these is to go to Boston next year. This of 252 THIRTEEN YEAKS IN MEXICO course Jepends upon yonv ability to advance me the money ft) pay my expenses, A\iiich would be in the aggre- gate $250 or |275 per year, that is, during term time which is about nine mouths. This would include cloth- ing, traveling expenses, etc. It may be that it will be necessary for me to attend three years, but it is likely that I would be able to complete the course in two years. I have felt all along during my college course that I am a very heavy burden to you, and it has not been an agree- able feeling by any means. It is only with hesitation that I can bring myself to ask you to assist me or rather sup- port me any further; for not only is it unpleasant for me to be any longer a burden to you, but if I felt that it would much embarrass you, or still more if I knew tliat it would prevent the other boys receiving just as good an education as I, I would feel that I was doing wrong if I accepted it at your hands. I feel that it would be greatly to my advantage to go to Boston next year, but if your affairs are such that you cannot do it without embarrassment, I will gladly withdraw my request. I hope you will think of the matter and let me know, as soon as you can de- termine it, just what I may expect. If your decision should indicate that it would be best, I will take the third course. This is to obtain a position as teacher where I could earn money enough to carry me through the theological school. This brings me to the subject of the letter which I spoke of in the first place. This letter is from a friend of mine in Louisiana, in which he states that he can procure me a situation as teacher in the public school of some town in that State, at a salary of one hundred dollars a month, equivalent to a tliousand dollars a year, if their school year is ten months. As the State is probably pretty thoroughly reconstructed, I be- lieve I could go there with i>erfect safety; and in this way in tw(», ()!-a1 most three years, 1 could save money enough THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 253 to carry me through the Boston school. If I took this last plan, I should join the Louisiana Conference, teach- ing during the week, and doing missionary work on Sun- day, This is now the plan of our church in that State. I can adjust myself easily to this work. I submit all these plans to you, and hope to hear soon of your decision with regard to them. Your loving son, C. W. Drees. That his parents were in hearty sympathy with his as- pirations, and willing to help in every way to further his plans for carrying them out, is evidenced by the fact that he entered upon his studies in the theological school in Boston the following year. His first letter after his ar- rival is dated September 11, 1871. Dear Mother : As nearly as possible, according to promise, I sit down this afternoon to tell you of our journey. After getting upon the train Thursday night, we found not only John Van Cleve, but also Davis Clark, thus adding another to our company. The cars were very much crowded and some of our fellow travelers were rather noisy, so that what with crowding and noise, I slept scarcely any all night. Waiting about an hour at Columbus, we proceeded to Pittsburgh, arriving there too late to make connections, and discovering that we should have to wait five long hours, till six o'clock. You may imagine this made me feel rather uncomfortable, as I knew that it would dis- arrange all our plans and put us into Boston after night. Riding all night in a full car, catching now and then an unsatisfactory nap, we arrived in the city of Brotherly Love about three quarters of an hour behind time. Four 254 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO of our party succeeded in juin])iiij; upon the train for New York after it had be^un to move. Our baggage and one of our party were left behind, but came on after u.s in a special train. After jolting along on the rough Camden and Amboy road all the morning, we got into New I'ork about noon. Here we were swindled by New York hack- men to the amount of one dollar! Hurrying from the ferry to the New Haven depot, we got there just in time for the train. Brother Higgins, having his baggage checked through, got on the train and went on, Cheney went over to Brooklyn to stay over Sab- bat h. \'an Cleve and I had to wait three hours till Clark and our baggage should come. Finally our eyes were cheered by Clark's appearance and, hastily checking our baggage, we left New Y'ork at three o'clock. We sup- posed Brother Higgins would reach Boston in advance of us; but when we came to Springfield, he walked into our car and smilingly told us that he had missed connec- tion and had been forced to wait for us there, A re- united party, we plunged on in the darkness till we reached here, after midnight. Leaving the depot we started to walk, we scarcely knew whither. Our steps were, I believe, providentially directed, for we went by the shortest route directly to the door of the seminary, when neither of us knew in the slightest measure how to find it. We rang the night bell, but could not rouse anyone. Walking on about a square, we stumbled upon the Tremont House, where we stayed all night and to breakfast, for which we paid the exor- bitant price of !$2.7r)! I am as yet very much unsettled, hut hope to be and feel more at home here shortly. With nnicli love, Your son, Charley. THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 255 The next letter is written September 13 to his mother : The former treatise wrote I unto thee, O best of mothers ! to advise you briefly of my journey — some of its mishaps and catastrophes— and finally of its conclusion. When I had finished that letter a great many things came up in my mind that I thought I ought to have written, but I consoled myself with the thought that I would soon write again, and remember to include them. Since Sunday morning I have been taking my meals at a restaurant just across the street, at the rate of from eighteen to thirty-five cents per meal. However, in an hour or two, I shall test the virtues of a seminary club arrangement, as it begins operations with this evening's supper. I have some misgivings with regard to this club arrangement^ but I suppose they will prove groundless. I have no doubt you will like to know something about my room, etc. I live in a room in the fourth story of a fine stone front building on Bromfield Street, in the Hub of the universe. This room of mine is of rather a peculiar shape, being between seven and eight feet wide, by about twenty-five feet long. So you see when I want to take a long walk in one direction, I can do so without leaving my room. Indeed, it is quite a promenade from end to end of it. Mine is one of three rooms made by running two partitions through a room which was originally almost square. In one end is a large window reaching almost entirely across it, in the seat of which I am now writing. At the other end is a door leading into a lobby which opens into the main corridor. The furniture of the room is as follows, namely : 1 iron bedstead; 1 dilapidated washstand; 1 looking glass; 2 rickety chairs ; 2 small leaved tables ; 2 book shelves. In addition to these, there is an extemporized clothes press, made by putting up two boards in the corner with a strip, with four double hooks inside, and chintz curtains hang- 256 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO ing in front to keep out the dust. The steam register is in one corner near the window. We find furnished for the bed a mattre.ss, by no means .soft, two pillows of chicken feathers, two thin comforts, and a bedspread. I must not forget to mention in this connection "sister" Blye, the matron. She is an ''ancient maiden lady," who has a mission in the world. She has "been matron to the seminary for five years, and seems well adapted to the position. She received us very kindly hist Sunday morn- ing, made us feel at home, and as our trunks had not arrived, furnished us bed linen and towels from her own store until ours came. The seminary began its session this morning with good attendance. The professors are very pleasant, kind men, rather younger than T expected to find them. The students are all very friendh' and sociable, and I expect, before the year shall have expired, to have formed very many pleas- ant associations and to have gained many new and lasting friends. I have just returned from my first meal at the seminary club. We had cold bread, warm bread, butter and mo- lasses, with tea or water to drink, and pears for dessert. I shall quit tea as it is charged extra for. (To his father) Boston, October 14, 1871. Mv DEAR Father: I iuldress this letter to you because 1 want to write more particularly nbont our seminary than I have yet done. I have written before of our location right in the business center of the city, and of our Ix'ing within a few minutes' walk of the places of greatest interest. I don't know whether f have writteTi i)articularly about our Itoardiiig arraiigeiiients. All tlie students are formed into THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 257 a club, electing, besides other suitable officers, a commis- sary, who does the buying, and a treasurer who manages the finances. Provisions are bought in quantities, and several women are hired to attend to the cooking. Assess- ments are made at the close of each month, covering the exact cost. This amount is divided on the basis of the number of meals each student has taken, three or more absences occurring in succession being deducted. The assessment for the first month was made last Wednesday, and was twelve cents per meal. My bill for the month was 110.31. For this amount we obtain a very good board, having enough variety to make it acceptable. Washing is done at cost. W^e come now to the seminary proper. There are four regular chairs of instruction. Systematic Theology, filled by W. F. Warren, D.D. ; Historical Theology, Dr. Lati- mer; Exegetical Theology, Dr. Lindsey; and Practical Theology, Dr. Townsend. Besides these, there are some other provisions made for the study of other branches, such as German. The instruction in all the regular de- partments is wholly by lectures, with the exception of Dr. Lindsey's department, which includes Hebrew and Greek. The student is required to take note of these lectures; in some, to take every word that falls from the lips of the professor, and in others, simply to note the principal points ; but in every case, he is expected to take sufficient notes to give him a thorough basis for his knowledge of the subject treated of. Text books are used only by way of reference, and are not brought into requisition in any case in the lecture room. While this method, in many respects, makes the student's work more laborious, it still possesses many advantages over the old method. In the department of Systematic Theology, our work thus far has been to gain a general view of theological 258 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO study, with its branches and related sciences introductory to the study of the particular departments. In Historical Theology, we have taken a general view of the department, and spent ten lectures on the life of Jesus. In Exegetical Theology, Hebrew grammar, and Greek Testament, and in Practical Theology, we are in the preparatory course of lectures; each student is required to prepare a thesis or conversation on a topic in sacred rhetoric, and once a week to present a report and criticism of the sermon he heard the preceding Sabbath. In Professor Latimer's de- partment, also, each student is assigned a topic in sacred history, to work up independently. This is the present work of the class to which I belong. Dr. Warren is also giving us a very interesting course of lectures on Chris- tian Missions. Since I have been here, I have been convinced more fully than ever that I would have suffered an almost irrep- arable loss had T postpoiied coming till next week. Our professors are all comparatively young men, just the men for their positions, and more than that, are very earnest and active in their piety and zeal for the Master's cause. We have already had one course of lectures extraordinary before the seminary by Dr. Wentworth, on China. The next course comes the week after Thanksgiving, by Dr. Samuel Harris, of the Yale Divinity School. These courses are daily lectures at twelve o'clock, in Wesleyan Association Hall, provided specinlly for the students. Such is a general view of the intellectual work laid out for the student; but it is not all. I inclose a copy of the rules of the institution, from which you will see that mere professional study and in- tellectual qualifications are regarded here as secondary, in real importance, to a true ])roparati()n for the work of the ministry, to the cultivation of tliose graces which manifest themselves in piety toward God and love for the THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 259 souls for whom Christ died. When I sny that in the work- ing of the seminary, this is not a lifeless theory, but a living truth enforced each day, by prayer, precept, and example, I mean all that those words can convey. We have now about eighty students, of whom one third are absent each Sabbath, preaching all through this por- tion of the State. T am told that Methodism is extending her borders very rapidly here, that new charges are springing up in considerable numbers and this largely through the influence of the seminary. I write to-day, as I am to go out of the city at four o'clock, to spend the Sabbath at West Chelmsford, thirty or forty miles from here. Give my love to all, and write soon to your affectionate ' Charles W. Drees, The first public event of special importance occurring at the close of this school year, was the great Peace Jubilee, celebrated in Boston in the month of June, 1872, of which he gives a brief account : Boston, June 21, 1872. My dear Mother : When I last wrote on Friday, I meant surely to do so again in a very few days, but Monday brought all the work, excitement, and weariness of the Jubilee, so that my time during the day has been greatly occupied, and at night I have been so weary that a week has gone by and as yet no letter written. I shall be heartily glad when the Jubilee is over, for while I enjoy it immensely, I find it very wearing, and long to settle quietly down to my work. I have been chorus usher every afternoon this week from 2 to 7 p. m. Two days I have spent the whole time from half past eight in the morning till seven at night at 260 THIRTEEN YEAKS IN MEXICO the Coliseuiu, on luy feet nearly all the lime, running here and there to keep the singers in order, having trouble with refractory ones now and then, and being obliged to suniniou a policeman to take in hand some violent man or woman. Persons of all kinds, with every imaginable com- plaint and question come, thinking that the usher ought to be able to know every thing, manage every thing, and clear up every difficulty. Imagine fifty or sixty ushers to twenty thousand people and you can form some con- ception of what a task it was. Later I will write some- thing of the Jubilee, now I can only say that the music is grand, soul-stirring, and altogether indescribable in its effects. The first thing on Monday's program was Old Hundred, to the hymn, ''From all that dwell below the skies." Men and women were aflfected to tears; I never experienced such an elevating sensation. Every nerve seemed to quiver as the grand old hymn rolled up from twenty thousand human voices, the thousand tongued orchestra, the immense organ, and the booming cannon. (A week later) The Peace Jubilee still continues, and is, of course, the all-absorbing object of thought and interest. Grant was present on Tuesday afternoon, and for the first and only time, the vast Coliseum was crowded to its utmost capacity ; approximately seventy thousand people were in the building. To-day it is understood that the would- be President, Horace dret^ley, honors the Jubilee with his presence. I doubt whether he will be the occasion of much enthusiasm. To-morrow will be Gilmore's benefit. The chief and universal enthusiasm of the multitude centers about Madanie Leutner, the German Prima Donna, the uni\ersal vei'dict places lier far aliead of Nilsson or Parepa Rosa. Her powers of vocalization are simply mar- THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 261 velous, filliug the auditorium, so that every note can be heard in the most distant portions; she reaches the highest notes with the greatest apparent ease. As to military band music, the French band seems to carry the day; but enough of the Jubilee for this time. (To his mother, from Boston, on his coming of age) My dear Mother : I feel as though I ought to write a letter home to-night. It is not, however, so much this feeling of obligation which leads me to do so, as the feeling that it will really do my heart good to talk to you a little on paper. I wish, if it might be, that I could see your face and talk to you by word of mouth ; but as that is impossible, I can only call up your face and, in imagination, keep it before me while writing. As you no doubt remember, to-day is my birthday; I am twenty-one to-day. This date serves to remind me strongly of the great goodness God has shown me in a thousand ways. My feeling to-night, as I stand upon the dividing ridge between youth and manhood, is one of pro- found gratitude and praise to God, to whom I offer a re- neAved consecration of my whole being. I do rejoice that, poor and unworthy as the offering is, he yet accepts it and fills me with his love ; praise him forever ! We have at last passed through the opening exercises of the new school year, my second in the seminary. Wednes- day morning came the love feast, and the enrollment of new students; in the afternoon the graduating exercises of last year's class, and the baccalaureate address. Thurs- day the alumni excursion to Plymouth Rock, and in the evening the address by Dr. Briggs, which highly delighted the audience. He seemed to remember me, and talked very pleasantly. This morning the long expected examinations took 262 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO place; they passed without serious damage to any one. On Monday real serious work will begin. Four of my former fellow students from Delaware have arrived. My chum for this year is to be Brother Leseman ; he will be away every week from Friday till Monday, a feature of the case which I very much approve, since during that time I shall have sole possession of the room. Trusting that I shall hear from you soon, and with very much love. Your son, C. W. Drees. Boston, October 31, 1872. My dear Mother: Several days have passed beyond my usual time for writing. I cannot describe how rapidly the time passes. At the end of the week I can hardly recall what has been done as it passed ; possibly the reason is that I am so busily occupied and so happy in my work. Not that many little matters do not try and perplex me, but among them all I find a sure refuge aud strong consolation in my Saviour. We have had some rain for the last two weeks, and it is still continuing, but on the whole, the autumn has been delightful, with its clear cool days, so invigorating. Now winter begins to nuike itself felt. Frost has stripped the trees on the Common; the plank walks are being laid, houses fortified against the approaching cold, etc. Ever}' fine morning a number of us i)lay football for an hour on the public playground in the Common; our con- tests are very exciting, and we find the exercise very bene- ficial to circulation and digestion, though accompanied by the inevitable tired limbs, sore joints and so on. No doubt you have heard of the ravages of the epi- zooty or horse distemjier in this city. So many of the horses are sick, that last Sabbath no horse cars, nor in- THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 263 deed scarcely a horse was to be seen; naturally this made the day a very quiet one. I wish more were like them in this particular. On Monday, as few horses were out, many amusing expedients were resorted to for necessary transportation ; ox teams were seen, and men drew wagons; even some horse cars were drawn over from South Boston by men, the employees of the company. Now, however, the horses are gradually recovering, and soon this, which strikes me as almost an Egyptian plague, will be forgotten. Political excitement runs high; last night witnessed a magnificent torch light procession, several miles in length, a Grant and Wilson demonstration. John B. Gough delivered one of his characteristic lec- tures to-night; subject, ''Circumstances." . . . Boston, November 12, 1872. My dear Mother : Before this you will have seen some account of the great fire which broke out here Saturday evening. It has been a fearful calamity, the losses of which cannot now be estimated; the very heart of the city is one mass of ruins. Probably no other area of equal size in any part of the town could be burned, where the losses would, in any degree, approximate the actual losses by this fire. Nearly all the wholesale houses have been destroyed; buildings of granite structure that one would think could have defied any combination of the elements; but the breath of fire enveloped them, and they are gone. All along Washington Street the fire raged at its height, and came within half a square of our building; for some hours it seemed as if we, too, were to be involved in the catastrophe, so, about one o'clock Sunday morning, the students began hastily moving their effects over to the Common. The scene that ensued is not easily de- 264 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO scribi'd : Hunks, luiiiiliire, buoks lied up in bed-elotliiiij^, boxes, barrels, mattresses, all had to be carried down three flights of stairs, jdaeed in wajj^ons, which we were for- tunate enough to secure, and hauled to the place of de- posit. There were fifteen or twenty large wagon loads, perhajts more. Two thirds of the students being absent at their fc>uudaj's engagements, those of us that were here had to move their property too; I wonder how it was all accompli.shed ! During the rest of the night and all day Sunday, we had to mount guard over our goods, that they might not be stolen. A friend or two helped me to carry my books, tied u]> in sheets and quilts, to the house of an acquaintance on Temple Street, who had kindly asked me to go there in case of necessity. Late Sunday afternoon, the danger appearing to be over, began Ihe work of bringing back our goods, and by sundown the huge mass of chattels lay piled up in dire confusion in (he hall on the ground floor of the building. Sunday night we appointed a watch, and slept with the possibility of being awaked at any moment, to escape once more from the flames. The fire did break out afresli about midnight, but the danger passed by. I can explain our escape in no other way than by a direct interposition of Providence; for no hand could have stayed the flames at Washington Street. Had they crossed we must have been burned out. Yesterday was another day of hard work; today I am sore in every joint, and hardly able to move about. The expenses of the fire to me will be very small, perhaps two dollars; besides wliicli I shall i)robably have to buy a new pair of j)ants. With mucli love, and gratitude to God for my present safety, I am. dear mother, Affectionately your son, C. W. D. THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 265 December 7. The Thanksgiving recess has passed away pleasantly. Early in the morning we played football on the Common ; at 10..'>0 a (tended the annual Methodist love feast in Broni- field Street Church; took dinner and spent most of the afternoon at the house of a friend in Chester Park, and in the evening heard William Morley Punshon lecture. The annual love feast, held on Thanksgiving, is an institution long established here; the meeting this year was a very profitable one. The subject of Mr. Punshon's lecture was "The Men of the Mayflower," the finest lecture I have yet heard on a Boston platform. It abounded in periods whose eloquence one seldom hears equaled; there were some home thrusts of evangelical truth, especially appro- priate to a Boston audience. It is hoped they will bear some fruit. Such was my Thanksgiving day as to its outward en- joyments; the day, however, brought with it causes and sources of a deeper joy than could spring from these out- ward surroundings. My heart was filled with thanks- giving to my heavenly Father for his goodness to me during the year ; for the great changes in my religious ex- perience earlj^ in the year, when I was enabled to give up all for Christ and, in simple trust, begin to realize the fullness of Jesus' love ; for the fulfillment to me, as I have by faith accepted them, of the "exceeding great and pre- cious promises'' ; for the gift of the Comforter, to work out in me the Father's will, and lead me in the right way. To these causes, let me add that of God's goodness in the summer, which, beginning with what seemed hardness, has worked out my very great spiritual good ; and thank- fulness for the patience of my father and mother, whose kindness has jn'ovided me with all things needful. You see what a catalogue of mercies has been mine. They make me feel my unworthiness, and the obligation to 266 TIIIKTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO yield myself aud my all to the service and the will of God. . .' . (Id March of the following year, 1873, he writes) Miss Sarah Smiley, the i>reacher, has been in the city this week, preaching every night in the Warren Avenue Baptist rimrch. A prophet of the Lord she certainly is. Her manner is modest, diguilied, and womanly; her voice sweet and musical; her teaching clear, simple, and won- derful in its insight into the Scriptures. Great power attends her preaching, and has led many into abiding union with Chri.st. Perhaps from what I say, you will think me a convert to woman's preaching. Well, I do not think that it can or ever will be general, nor perhaps is it desirable; but when the Lord does raise up women such as these, and sends them out to preach, the church has no right to frown upon them because they are women. The Head of the church surely is able to order all this in wisdom ! Our students not regularly eniployed have organized into bands for mission work, in the city and vicinity. Last Wednesday, the one with which I am connected went to a little place in the suburbs, where we had an excel- lent meeting; so good was it that we expect to return to- morrow, confident of the Lord's blessing. „ Boston, April 7, 1873. My deah Father: I write this morning to ask yonr advice in a matter of some importance to me and which I think will be of no little interest to you and mother. It is in regard to my taking a charge for the year intervening between the present and ilie lime of my graduation next spring. I have lu-eached liie last two Sundays at North Easton, under the direction of the presiding elder. The place was THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 267 left to be supplied at the late session of the Providence Conference. The people all seem very anxious to have me remain with them for the year, and now the responsibility is thrown upon me to decide what I must do. I desire to do just what is my Master's will in the matter, and I think you will concur in that. I feel, however, that be- fore pledging myself in any way, I must tell you about it, and ask how you feel with regard to it. I suppose you have all been expecting me to be at home this summer. You can hardly have been looking forward to it with the same degree of pleasure that I have. It will be a little hard for me to lay aside so suddenly all my anticipations of a long visit home, and yet, if that is the path of duty, I must follow it. I have often thought about preaching next year, and while it will add a good deal to my work and require some sacrifices on my part, yet there are some good reasons why I should accept work should an opportunity offer. It would probably enable me to meet and, by God's help, to conquer some difficulties^ which I must meet sooner or later. It would give me some practical experience, which will be of benefit to me when I enter Conference. It will save three months' time for the Master. For, if I spend this summer at home, I will also be compelled (not un- willingly, to be sure) to spend next summer in compara- tive inactivity. If, however, I spend this summer in work, I will still have one long vacation before Conference time, to spend at home next summer. So, by taking this work, I will save all this summer. I can also have a vacation of two or three Sabbaths in July when I can go home, if you want me to. As to the pecuniary aspect of the case, I hardly feel like speaking of it, for I know you will not let that influence you a great deal. My salary will be at least 268 THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO $400, and perhaps .^500, enough to pay all necessary ex- penses. These are the chief things that influence ray own mind, and now I shall withhold my decision till I hear from you. Let me hear from you as soon as possible. His parents gave their hearty ai)proval to this plan, and he was at once installed as pastor of this charge, con- tinuing with the care of it until he left the seminary, the following Aj>ril. In July he made a brief visit home, re- turning by way of Landisville, where a camp meeting was being held, and spending a day or two there. North Eastox, August 4, 1873. I wrote you a note from Landisville, telling of my safe arrival and kind reception. To my surprise, I met there half a dozen or more friends and acquaintances from New England, among them Amanda Smith, who came up to shake hands with me at the close of the early morning meeting. She is not going to Ihe camp meeting of the colored people at Xenia, as there is some uncertainty of its continuance for the present. I attended meetings all day Wednesday. Dr. and Mrs. Lowry gave me an invita- tion to sleep in their tent that night, which I did, occupy- ing it in company with John Bent, of Boston, and Rev. Isaac M. See, a Presbyterian clergA'man from New Jersey, Next morning, nolwithslanding j)ressing invitations to remain, it seemed better to continue my journey, so I took the train at ten o'clock, and at night, the Fall River boat for Boston. With a blanket and mattress on the upper deck I slept soundly, and reached the seminary in the nioi'iiing, coming on ont here in the afternoon. On Saturday 1 was greatly helped of (Jod in j>rei)aring a sermon, and on Sunday in jtreaching it, from Rev. 22. 17, but fear it may have been too long. Should I ever have a wife, I hope she can and will criticize me and help me to THlIiTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 269 correct iiiid keep out of bad habits; I feel the need of a judicious Censor. . . . (To his mother) September 15, 1873. I am once more ensconced in my old room and fully engaged in the work of the seminary. It is likely that Sunday work, together with school duties, will give me all I can do and more. There is much that is exciting in the reopening of the seminary; meeting with old class- mates after months of seiiaratiou, and listening to what each has to relate of interest in his vacation, becoming acquainted with new students, the greetings of professors, the assignment of work, and entrance upon new duties, which open up every day unexplored regions that invite our willing feet. The thought that this is my senior year brings into prominence the near future, still so shadowy and un- certain. Saturday was my twenty-second birthday, of which you will not have been unmindful, but I shall not indulge here in any of those reflections so natural in connection with such epochs, but will only say that I am hoping for strength and vigor for what awaits me. . . . In October he writes : Our class is now having drill ex- ercises with Professor Monroe, the head of the School of Oratory; we go into the Bromfield Street Church, and at each recitation some member of the class delivers a pre- pared address, on some topic related to church work. This is then subjected to the criticism of the class, of Pro- fessor Townsend, and of Professor Monroe, Avhich is quite an ordeal to the speaker. My turn came this afternoon. 1 should much prefer to preach before a full audience than to these twenty young men and their professors, who are L'TO THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO iiiaiUiiij^ every tone, and accent, and gesture for the ex- press purpose of dissecting them. However, I came off better than I expected, and feel that the ordeal did me good. . . . (To his father) March 7, 187-4. Next Friday our examinations occur, after which I shall have finished my connection with the seminary. Naturally, I think much of my future work and wonder where it will be, for there is much uncertainty about it as yet. There are some intimations of an appointment to the Mexico Mission, growinji out of the fact that I studied Spanish last year with others, whose names were sent to the Mission Rooms. I pray, and ask youi- prayers, for guidance in finding the right place and work for the Master. . . . ,, „ Boston, March 18. Mv DEAR Parents: You will remember a rumor I mentioned in my last letter that I might be apjiointed to Mexico. Since then the matter has taken more definite shape, and the ques- tion is now to be decided whether or not I will go. Per- haps I ought to give you a histor}' of the way in which this has come to pass. When the Spanish class was formed, eighteen months ago, I felt a desire to join it, though I had no definite intention of becoming a mission- ary. It was needful for the organization of the class that at least five should express a willingness to become mis- sionaries. When Dr. Warren put the question, I told him just how I felt at that time; that I desired and was willing to go wherever God and the church most needed me, but that I could not jiledgo myself to go to a Spanish-speaking country. lie rf|ilic(l iliat in siiulyiug tlic language. I would place myself iiinlrr im oliligatious, and with that i THIRTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO 271 understanding I entered the class. Dr. Warren, it seems, sent my name to the Mission Rooms, as one of the Spanish class about to graduate. The secretaries then sent a form of blank recommenda- tions to be filled out and signed by the faculty and pre- siding elder, which, if satisfactory, would make my ap- pointment sure, as another man was needed in Mexico. The appointment is not of my seeking; indeed, as far as my preference is concerned, I should choose to be nearer home, but I want to decide the question in such a way as to please God and get most glory to his name. Now what I want to know is : are you willing to give me to the Lord for this work, trusting him to take care of my life and make me useful? As far as my own impressions of duty are concerned, after praying over the matter I feel as though I ought to enter this open door. A speedy decision is necessary, as the steamer in which John Butler sails from New York, leaves on the 25th of April, and I would be expected to go at that time. You are, no doubt, aware that his father, Dr. William Butler, is superintendent of the Mexico Mission. . . . Boston, March 23, 1874. My dear Parents : I feel as though I have a very difficult task to perform this morning in writing as I must. I wrote the inclosed letter last Wednesday, but felt a great hesitation in send- ing it, and so waited, hoping to receive a letter from you that might give me some light. Friday I had a letter from Dr. Eddy, saying that they had received sufficient recom- mendations, and that I was appointed. An immediate decision was necessary, and yet I hardly knew how to make it without consulting you. But I remembered a letter of mother's, written some time ago, in which she said in substance that she would not wish to deter me in L'72 THIRTEEN YEAKS IN MEXICO tlu' jijiili <»r duty. Tliou^li 1 knew it would be hard for lier, I I'ell sui-e that she would have strength to accept my derision. I laid the whole nialler before God that niglit, and waited lon^ to know his will. The result is that, with the li